HQHHHBnFv ■' •'■ f^'. I 4 «'*! pigs, &c. and all the rest of the miserable tribes EASTER SUNDAY. 29 which have been laid down as the lawful victims of our carnivorous nature. On Easter Sunday I was invited by a physi- cian to dine with him, and to attend the christen- ing of one of his grandchildren. At dinner the party was small ; the dishes were served up two at a time to the number of ten or twelve, of all of which I was obliged to taste. From the table we adjourned to the church about four o'clock, where several persons, likewise invited, waited for us ; the ceremony was performed by a friar, and each guest held a wax taper, forming a semi- circle towards the altar ; from hence we returned to the old gentleman's house to supper. I met here, among others belonging to the same con- vent, the friar who preached the crucifixion sermon. The members of this convent are all Italians and Missionaries, but as no reinforce- ment has for a length of time come out from Europe, very few now remain. A long table was laid out, loaded with victuals. Several ladies were present, notwithstanding which enormous quantities of wine were drank, until the whole company began to be riotous, but still the ladies did not move. At last no order was left among them, bottles and glasses were overturned and broken in the vehement wishes expressed for the prosperity of the whole family of our host, both old and young ; when in the midst of this, I escaped about nine o'clock, accompanied b\ a mm 30 PROFESSION Of A FRIAR. Franciscan friar. We had a journey in con- templation for the next day, and thought it high time to get away. Parties of this kind are not frequent, and in a general way these people live in a very quiet manner. The old Doctor is a native of Lisbon, and a great friend to English- men ; he was young at the time of the great earthquake, and says he shall never forget that he was in part cloathed from the necessaries sent out by the British government for the assistance of the Portuguese after that dreadful calamity. On the following afternoon, the friar, myself, and a servant, proceeded to Iguaracu, a small town distant from Recife seven leagues, for the purpose of witnessing the entrance of a novice into the Order of St. Francis. We arrived about nine o'clock at night at the gates of the convent; the friar rang the bell three times, as the signal of the arrival of one of the Order ; a lay Brother came, and asked who it was that demanded ad- mittance ; he was answered, that it was brother Joseph from the convent of Recife accompanied by a friend ; the porter shut the gates again, but soon returned, saying that the Guardian, the name given to the principal of a Franciscan con- vent, allowed us to enter. We were conducted up a flight of steps into a long corridore, at the end of which sat the Guardian, to whom we were introduced ; he directed us to the brother who had the management of the accommodations for PROFESSION OF A FRIAR. 31 visitors ; this man placed us under the especial care of' Frei Luiz, who took us to his cell. Supper was served up, upon which the Guardian came in, helped us once round to wine, and made many apologies for the badness of his cook, and also excuses for the want of ingredients at this distance from Recife. The convents of St. Francis are all built exactly upon the same plan ; in the form of a quadrangle, one side of which is appropriated to the church, and the re- maining three to cells and to other purposes ; the former are above, and to be entered from a gal- lery, which runs round the whole building. The beds with which the friars supplied us were hard, but very acceptable after our ride. The ceremony to be performed on the ensuing morning collected great numbers of persons from all quarters, as it is now very rare. Formerly, of every family at least one member was a friar, but now this is not the custom ; children are brought up to trade, to the army, to any thing rather than to a monastic life, which is fast losing its reputation. None of the convents are full, and some of them are nearly without inha- bitants. * * A Portuguese gentleman once observed to me, that in France and other countries many clever men had written and spoken strongly, and for a considerable length of time against this way of life, and that they at last even effected their purpose with much difficulty : but, he added, in Per- ssa TW mwi 32 PROFESSION OF A FRIAR, Early in the morning the church was lighted up, and about ten o'clock the family of the per- son about to take the vows arrived to occupy the seats prepared for them. Mass was then said, and a sermon preached ; about eleven o'clock the novice, a young man of sixteen years of age, entered the principal chapel by a side door, walking between two brothers, with a large cross in his hands, and dressed in a long dark blue robe : there was then much chanting, after which he knelt down opposite to the Guardian, received the usual admonitions, was asked seve- ral questions relating to his belief in the doc- trines of the church, and then made the separate vows, of defending his religion, of celibacy, and others of minor importance. The Guardian then dressed him in the habit of the Order, made of very thick, rough, dark brown cloth, which be- fore lay stretched upon the ground in front of the altar, covered with flowers ; this being done, the young man embraced all the brothers pre- sent, took leave of his relations, and left the church. Many of the friars were laughing during the ceremony, and were particularly amused at the Guardian accidentally saying, " Brother, don't be ashamed * j" owing to the nambuco such is the conduct of the friars, that no writing and no speaking is necessary to bring them into disrepute. ■• ln»am, nao tenha vergenha' 1 PROFESSION OF A FRIAR. 33 young man being much abashed. A visiter who stood near to me in the gallery, from which there are windows into the church, said, in a low voice to be heard only by those immediately around him ; " See your chief himself thus ad- vises him to put shame aside, which unfortunately you are all too much inclined to do ;" at this the friars who were within hearing all laughed. Great part of the community and many other persons dined with the father of the young friar, and I among the rest ; there was much eating, much drinking, and much confusion. In the evening fireworks were displayed, which ended by a transparency, representing a novice re- ceiving the benediction of his Guardian. It was determined that we should return to Recife this night, and that the journey was to be commenced as soon as the moon rose. The party consisted of rive friars, several laymen be- sides myself all on horseback ; some palanquins with ladies, and a number of negroes to carry them. We sallied forth about midnight; the moon was bright, and the sky quite clear. The scene was very strange ; the road made in places abrupt turns, so as to give to those who were rather in advance, on looking back, a view of the whole procession, at times appearing and at limes concealed among the trees -, of this the friars formed an extraordinary part, in their i obes tucked up round the waist, and tied with VOL. I. D I— — 1 34 ST. PETER 5 DAY. the long yellow cord of flagellation, and with their enormous white hats. At Oiinda several persons remained, and the rest arrived at Recife about seven o'clock in the morning. On the 10th of May I had a sudden attack of fever, which was accompanied with delirium ; however, with the assistance of a medical man, the disorder subsided in the course of forty-eight hours, but it left me in a very weak state, from which I was some time in recovering. These fevers are well known in the country, but are not common, and in general are preceded for some days by ague. I can only account for this attack, from having suffered the window of my room, which had a western aspect, to remain open during the night, and the land breeze which rises about twelve o'clock is not accounted wholesome. A young Englishman insisted upon ray removal to his house, that I might not re- main in the hands of servants; he brought a palanquin for this purpose, and made me get into it. With him I remained until my health was completely re-established, and was treated by him with that sort of kindness which can only be expected from a very near relation. I dined with a friend on St, Peter's day, the 29th June, and in the evening I proposed walk- ing to the church, dedicated to this saint. As usual, the blaze of light was great, the congre- gation numerous, and the whole affair very bril- ST. PETERS DAY. 35 iiant. After the service, we recognised a party of ladies with whom we were acquainted, and one of them requested us to look for a young priest, her son ; on making enquiries, we were desired to walk up stairs into a large room over the vestry, in which were several priests, and a table covered with refreshments of many descrip- tions. The young man came to us, and was soon followed by others, who invited us to stay and partake, but we declined and went down to the party we had joined ; some of the priests accompanied us, and persuaded the ladies to ascend, and have a share of the good things ; we were also requested to return, which we did. There were great quantities of fruit, cakes, sweet- meats, and wine. We met with the most marked attention from these ministers of the Roman •Catholic religion ; greater politeness could not. have been shown to any person ; even many with whom we had not been acquainted before, offered us wine, and requested to be introduced to us. I mention the conduct of these men more par- ticularly, as I think it showed a great degree of liberality, and a wish to conciliate, and more especially as there were likewise several laymen present of their own nation. * About ten o'clock * In speaking of the Priesthood, it must be always recol- lected, that the Secular and Regular Clergy are two totally- different bodies of men, and as distinct in their utility, their knowledge and their manners, as they arc in their situation mi life. D 2 36 VISIT TO A BRAZILIAN FAMILY. we left the church, and taking one family of our party home, remained with them until a very late hour. We were invited to pass the following Sunday with this family, which consisted of the father and mother, and a son and daughter ; they were all Brazilians, and though the young lady had never been from Pernambuco, her manners were easy, and her conversation lively and entertain- ing. Her complexion was not darker than that of the Portuguese in general, her eyes and hair black, and her features on the whole good ; her figure small, but well shaped. Though I have seen others handsomer, still this lady may be accounted a very fair sample of the white Bra- zilian females ; but it is among the women of colour that the finest persons are to be found, — more life and spirit, more activity of mind and body ; they are better fitted to the climate, and the mixed race seems to be its proper inha- bitant. Their features, too, are often good, and even the colour, which in European climates is disagreeable, appears to appertain to that in which it more naturally exists ; but this bar to European ideas of beauty set aside, finer speci- mens of the human form cannot be found than among the mulatto females whom I have seen. We went to them to breakfast, which was of coffee and cakes. Backgammon and cards were then introduced until dinner time, at two o'clock. VISIT TO A BRAZILIAN FAMILY. 37 This consisted of great numbers of dishes, placed upon the table without any arrangement, and brought in without any regard to the regularity of courses. We were, as may be supposed, rather surprised at being complimented with pieces of meat from the plates of various per- sons at the table. I have often met with this custom, particularly amongst families in the in- terior, and this I now speak of had only resided in Recife a short time ; but many of the people of the town have other ideas on these matters. Two or three knives only were placed upon the table, which obliged each person to cut all the meat upon his own plate into small pieces, and pass the knife to his next neighbour. There was, however, a plentiful supply of silver forks, and abundance of plates. Garlic formed one ingredient in almost every dish, and we had a great deal of wine during the dinner. The mo- ment we finished, every one rose from the table, and removed into another apartment. At eight o'clock a large party assembled to tea, and we did not take our departure until a very late hour. On our arrival at home, my friend and I sat together to consider of the transactions of this day, which we had thus passed entirely with a Brazilian family, and both agreed that we had been much amused, and that we had really felt much gratification, save the business at the dining table. The conversation was trifling, d 3 38 VISIT JO A BRAZILIAN FAMILY. but entertaining ; there was much wit and sport. The ladies of the house, joined by several others in the evening, talked a great deal, and would allow of no subject into which they conld not enter. It will be observed from what I have described* and from what I still have to mention, that no rule can be laid down for the society of the place in question ; families of equal rank, and of equal wealth and importance, are often of manners totally different. The fact is, that society is undergoing a rapid change ; not that the people imitate European customs, though these have some effect, but as there is more wealth, more luxuries are required ; as there is more education, higher and more polished amusements are sought for; as the mind be- comes more enlarged, from intercourse with other nations, and from reading, many customs are seen in a different light ; so that the same per- sons insensibly change, and in a few years ridi- cule and are disgusted with many of those very habits which, if they reflect for a moment, they will recollect were practised but a short time before by themselves. On St. Anne's day, the 29th July, two young Englishmen and myself proceeded by invita- tion to the house of one of the first person- ages of Pernambuco ; a man in place, and a planter, possessing three sugar works in Hit- ANOTHER VISIT. 39 ferent parts of the country. About ten o'clock in the morning, we embarked in a canoe, and were poled and paddled across the bay, on the land side of the town. On our arrival upon the opposite shore, the tide was out, and the mud deep ; in fear and trembling for our silks, two of us clang to the backs of the canoe-men y who with some difficulty put us down safe on dry land ; but the third, who was heavier, for some minutes debated whether to return home was not a better plan ; however, he took courage, and was, likewise, safely conducted through this region of peril. We then walked up to the house, which covers much ground, and of which the apartments are spacious, and all upon the rirst floor. The garden was laid out by this gentleman's father, in the old style of straight walks, and trees cut into shapes. A large party was already assembling, as this was the anni- versary of the birth-day of our hostess ; but the females were all ushered into one room, and the men into another ; cards and backgammon, as usual, were the amusements, but there was little of ease and freedom of conversation. At dinner, the ladies all arranged themselves on one side, and the men opposite to them ; there were victuals of many kinds in great profusion, and much wine was drank. Some of the gentle- men who were intimately acquainted with the family, did not sit down at table, but assisted in d 4 ^RRH 40 ANOTHER VISIT. attending upon the ladies. After dinner, the* whole party adjourned into a large hall, and country dancing being proposed and agreed to, fiddlers were introduced, and a little after seven o'clock, about twenty couples commenced, and continued this amusement until past tv/o o'clock. Here was the ceremony of the last century in the morning, and in the evening the cheer- fulness of an English party of the present day. I never partook of one more pleasant ; the con- versation, at times renewed, was always gen- teel, but unceremonious, and I met with several well-educated persons, whose acquaintance I enjoyed during, the remainder of my stay at this place. The rains this season had been very slight, and scarcely ever prevented our rides into the country in the neighbourhood, to the distance of six or eight miles ; but we never reached beyond the summer dwellings of the inhabitants of Recife. The villages are at this time very dull, having people of colour and negroes as residents almost exclusively. However, as I was fond of the country, I was tempted by the fineness of the weather to remove entirely to a small cottage in the vicinity, where my time passed away pleasantly, though quietly, and in a manner very barren of events. There stands a hamlet not far distant from my new residence,, called Caza Forte, formerly the site of a sugar BRAZILIAN SOCIETY. 41 plantation, which has been suffered to decay, and now the chapel alone remains to point out the exact position. The dwelling-house of these works is said to have been defended by the Dutch against the Portuguese, who set fire to it, for the purpose of obliging their enemies to surrender. A large open piece of ground is pointed out as having been the situation upon which these transactions took place. It is dis- tant from Recife about five miles, and the river Capibaribe runs about three quarters of a mile beyond it. I met with few of the peasants who had any knowledge of the Pernambucan war against the Dutch, but I heard this spot more frequently spoken of than any other.* Per- haps if I had had more communication with the southern districts of Pernambuco, I should have discovered that the war was more vividly re- membered there. I had an offer of introduction to another Brazilian family, which I readily accepted, and on the 7th August I was summoned by my friend to accompany him to Olinda. He had been invited, and liberty had been given to take a friend. We went in a canoe, and were com- pletely wet through on the way ; but we walked * I think that the Caza Forte and the Cazas de Dona Anna Paes, of which an account is given in the History of Brazil, vol.ii. p. 124., distinguish the same place under dif- ferent names. ■^H ¥Z BRAZILIAN SOCIETV. about the streets of Olinda until we were again dry. The family consisted of an old lady, her two daughters, and a son, who is a priest, and one of the professors or masters of the seminary. Seve- ral persons of the same class were present, of easy and gentlemanlike manners ; some of them proposed dancing, and although they did not join in the amusement, still they were highly pleased to see others entertained in this manner. Our music was a piano-forte, played by one of the professors, who good-humouredly continued until the dancers themselves begged him to desist. About midnight, we left these pleasant people, and returned to the beach ; the tide was out, and the canoe upon dry land ; we therefore determined to walk; the sand was very heavy, the distance three miles, and after our evening's amusement, this was hard work. I did not attempt this night to go beyond Recife to my cottage, but accepted of a mattress at my friend's residence. Three or four families are in the practice of having weekly evening card parties, as was usual in Lisbon. I attended these occasionally, but in them there was no peculiarity of customs. The foregoing pages will, I think, suffice to point out the kind of society to be met with in Pernambuco, but this must be sought for, as the families in which it is to be found, are not nume- rous. Of these, very few are in trade ; they are BRAZILIAN SOCIETY. 43 either Portuguese families, of which the chief is in office, or Brazilian planters who are wealthy, and prefer residing in Recife or Olinda ; or, as is frequently the case, a son or brother belong- ing to the secular priesthood has imbibed more liberal notions, and has acquired a zest for rational society. As may naturally be supposed, the females of a family are always glad to be of more importance, to be treated with respect, to see, and to be seen. The merchants, generally speaking, for there do exist some exceptions, live very much alone ; they have been originally from Portugal, have made fortunes in trade, and have married in the country ; but most of them still continue to live as if they were not yet suf- ficiently wealthy, or at least cannot persuade themselves to alter their close and retired man- ner of living, and, excepting in the summer months, when sitting upon the steps of their country residences, their families are not to be seen. The gentleman, chiefly by whose kindness I had been introduced and enabled to partake of the pleasantest society of Pernambuco, was among the first British subjects who availed themselves of the free communication between England and Brazil, and he even already ob- served a considerable change of manners in the higher class of people. The decrease in the price of all articles of dress j the facility of *•*• 44 BRAZILIAN CUSTOMS. obtaining, at a low rate, earthenware, cutlery, and table linen ; in fact, the very spur given to the mind by this appearance of a new people among them ; the hope of a better state of things, that their country was about to become of more importance ; renewed in many persons, ideas which had long lain dormant ; made them wish to show, that they had money to ex- pend, and that they knew how it should be ex- pended. * It was the custom in Pernambuco, to uncover when passing a sentinel, or on meeting a guard of soldiers marching through the streets. Soon after the opening of the port to British shipping, three English gentlemen accidentally met a corporal's guard of four or five men, and as they passed each other, one of the latter took off the hat of one of the former, accompanying the action by an opprobrious expression ; the Eng- lishmen resented the insult, attacked and abso- lutely routed the guard. This dreadful mark of * When the Englishmen, who first established themselves at Recife, had finished the stock of tea which they had brought with them, they enquired where more could be pur- chased, and were directed to an apothecary's shop. They went, and asked simply for tea, when the man wished to know what kind of tea they meant; he at last understood them, and said, " O, you want East-Indian tea," " Cha da India" — thus considering it as he would any other drug. But at the time of which I am now speaking great quanti- ties are consumed. BRAZILIAN CUSTOMS. 45 submission to military power was universally refused by every British subject, and has been very much discontinued even by the Portuguese. Another annoyance to these visitors was the usual respect paid to the Sacrament, carried with much pomp and ceremony to persons dan- gerously ill. It was expected, that every one by whom it chanced to pass, should kneel, and continue in that posture until it was out of sight; here Englishmen, in some degree, con- formed in proper deference to the religion of the country, but the necessity of this also is wearing off. * * I once heard, that a person who had been in England, and had returned to Pernambuco, observed, that the two things which surprised him the most in that country, were, that the people did not die, and that the children spoke Eng- lish. He was asked his reason for supposing that his first wonder was correct, to which he answered, that he never had seen the Sacrament taken to the sick. ( 46 ) CHAP. III. THE GOVERNMENT. — THE TAXES, — THE PUBLIC INSTI- TUTIONS. CRIMINALS. — PRISONS. MILITARY ES- TABLISHMENTS. THE ISLAND OF FERNANDO DE NORONHA. "T^HE captaincies-general, or provinces of the first rank, in Brazil, of which Pernambuco is one, are governed by captains-general or governors, who are appointed for three years. At the end of this period the same person is continued or not, at the option of the supreme government. They are, in fact, absolute in power, but before the person who has been no- minated to one of these places can exercise any of its functions, he is under the necessity of pre- senting his credentials to the Senado da Camara, the chamber or municipality of the principal town. This is formed of persons of respectabi- lity in the place. The governor has the supreme and sole command of the military force. The civil and criminal causes are discussed before and determined by the Ouvidor and Jidz de Fora, the two chief judicial officers, whose du- ties are somewhat similar, but the former is the superior in rank. They are appointed for three ECCLESIASTICAL GOVERNMENT. 17 years, and the term may be renewed. * It is in these departments of the government that the opportunities of amassing large fortunes are most numerous ; and certain it is that some individuals take advantage of them in a manner which renders justice but a name. The go- vernor can determine in a criminal cause with- out appeal, but, if he pleases, he refers it to the competent judge. The Procurador da Coroa, attorney-general, is an officer of considerable weight. The Intendente da Marinha, port ad- miral, is likewise consulted on matters of first importance ; as are also the Escrivam da Fazen- da Real, chief of the treasury, and the Jutz da Alfandega, comptroller of the customs. These seven officers form the Junta, or council, which occasionally meets to arrange and decide upon the affairs of the captaincy to which they belong. The ecclesiastical government is scarcely con- nected with that above-mentioned, and is admi- nistered by a bishop and a dean and chapter, * A Juiz Conservator, Judge Conservator, of the British nation has been appointed for Pernambuco, but at the period of my departure from Recife he was not arrived. Very soon after the commencement of a direct commercial inter- course with Great Britain, a vice-consul was appointed for Pernambuco, by the consul-general at Rio de Janeiro ; this person was superseded by a consul sent out direct from Eng- land, who is subject to the consul-general of Brazil, but the place i-- disposed of bv the government at ho 48 TAXES. with his vicar-general, &c. The governor can- not even appoint a chaplain to the island of Fernando de Noronha, one of the dependencies of Pernambuco, but acquaints the bishop that a priest is wanted, who then nominates one for the place. The number of civil and military officers is enormous ; inspectors innumerable, colonels without end, devoid of any objects to inspect, without any regiments to command j judges to manage each trifling department, of which the duties might all be done by two or three per- sons ; thus salaries are augmented ; the people are oppressed, but the state is not benefited. Taxes are laid where they fall heavy upon the lower classes, and none are levied where they could well be borne. A tenth is raised in kind upon cattle, poultry, and agriculture, and even upon salt; this in former times apper- tained, as in other Christian countries, to the clergy. * All the taxes are farmed to the highest bidders, and this among the rest. They are parcelled out in extensive districts, and are * When Brazil was in its infancy, the clergy could not subsist upon their tythes, and therefore petitioned the go- vernment of Portugal to pay them a certain stipend, and receive the tenths for its own account; this was accepted, but now that the tenths have increased in value twenty-fold, the government still pays to the vicars the same stipends. The clergy of the present day bitterly complain of the agreement made by those to whom they have succeeded. 14 TAXES. contracted for at a reasonable rate, but the con- tractors again dispose of their shares in small portions ; these are again retailed to other per- sons, and as a profit is obtained by each transfer the people must be oppressed, that these men may satisfy those above them and enrich them- selves. The system is in itself bad, but is ren- dered still heavier by this division of the spoil. The tenth of cattle, as I have already said, is levied in kind upon the estates in the interior of the country, and, besides this, a duty of 320 reis per arroba of 32lbs. is paid upon the meat at the shambles, which amounts to about twenty-five per cent. Fish pays the tenth, and afterwards a fifteenth. Every transfer of immovable pro- perty is subject to a duty of ten per cent and movables to five per cent. Besides these, there are many other taxes of minor importance. Rum, both for exportation and home consump- tion, pays a duty of 80 reis per Canada *, which is sometimes a fourth of its value, but may be reckoned as from fifteen to twenty per cent. Cotton pays the tenth, and is again taxed at the * A great confusion exists in Brazil respecting measures. Every captaincy has its own, agreeing neither with those of its neighbours, nor with the measures of Portugal, though the same names are used invariably : thus a canada and an alqueire in Pernambuco represent a much greater quantity than the same denominations in Portugal, and less than in some of the other provinces of Brazil. VOL. I. E 50 TAXES. moment of exportation 600 reis per arroba oi 32lbs. or about lie?, per lb. Nothing can be more injudicious, than this double duty upon the chief article of exportation from that coun- try to Europe. The duties at the custom-house are fifteen per cent, upon imports, of which the valuation is left in some measure to the mer- chant to whom the property belongs. Here, I think, ten per cent, more might be raised with- out being felt. A tax is paid at Pernambuco for lighting the streets of the Rio de Janeiro, whilst those of Recife remain in total darkness. Now, although the expenses of the provin- cial governments are great, and absorb a very considerable proportion of the receipts, owing to the number of officers employed in every de- partment, still the salaries of each are, in most instances, much too small to afford a comfortable subsistence ; consequently peculation, bribery, and other crimes of the same description are to be looked for, and they become so frequent as to escape all punishment or even notice; though there are some men whose character is without reproach. The governor of Pernambuco re- ceceives a salary of 4,000,000 reis, or about 1000/. per annum. Can this be supposed to be sufficient for a man in his responsible situation, even in a country in which articles of food are cheap? His honour, however, is unimpeached; not one instance did I ever hear mentioned of PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 51 improper conduct in him ; but the temptation and the opportunities of amassing money are very great, and few are the persons who can resist them. The only manufactory in Recife of any im- portance is that of gold and silver trinkets of every description, and of gold lace ; but the quantities made of either are only sufficient for the demand of the place. The women employ themselves very generally in making thread lace and in embroidery ; but the manufacture of these articles is not sufficiently extensive to allow of exportation.* The public institutions are not many, but, of those that exist, some are excellent. The semi- nary at Olinda for the education of young per- sons is well conducted, and many of its profes- sors are persons of knowledge and of liberality. It is intended principally to prepare the students for the church as secular priests, and therefore all of them wear a black gown and a cap of a peculiar form, but it is not necessary that they should ultimately take orders. Free schools are also established in most of the small towns in the country, in some of which the Latin lan- guage is taught, but the major part are adapted * A patent has been obtained, and a manufactory estab- lished upon a large scale, for making cordage from the out- ward rind of the coco-nut. Ropes of this description are, F believe, much used in the East Indies. E 2 52 PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. only to give instruction in reading, writing, and arithmetic. Neither in these nor in the semi- nary is any expense incurred by the pupils. The Lazarus Hospital is neglected, but patients are admitted ; the other establishments for the sick are very miserable. Strange it is, that fine churches should be built, whilst many individuals are suffered to perish from the want of a suitable building under which to shelter them. But the best institution of which Pernambuco has to boast, in common with the mother-country, is the Roda dos Engeitados. Infants of doubtful birth are received, taken care of, reared, and provided for. Every person knows what the wheel of a convent is, — a cylindrical box open on one side, which is fixed in the wall and turns upon a pivot ; near to this is placed a bell, to be rung when any thing is put into the box, that the inhabitants of the convent may know when it should be turned. One of these wheels stands ready night and day to receive the child — the bell is wrung and the box turns. Thus the lives of many are saved — thus numbers are spared from shame. Never let it be imagined that births of a secret nature will be more frequent, from the consideration that this institution exists; but it removes all motives for unnatural conduct in a mother, and it may sometimes produce re- form of future conduct, by the facility afforded of concealing what has already passed. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 53 The friars are not numerous, though they are iar too much so. These useless beings * amount to about one hundred and fifty in number at Olinda, Recife, Iguaracu, and Paraiba.t But there are no nuns in the province, though of the establishments called Recolhimentos or Retreats, * An old woman applied at the gates of a convent, late one evening, and told the porter, an old friar, who was quite blind, that she wished one of the brothers to go with her, for the purpose of confessing a sick person. The old man, with perfect unconcern, gave her to understand, that they were all out, adding, " But if you will go to the garden-gate, and wait there, some of them will soon be creeping in." f The younger members of the Franciscan Order enjoy very much the duty of going out to beg,as opportunities offer of amusing themselves. A guardian was chosen at Paraiba some years ago, who examined the chest in which the money belonging to the community was kept, and on finding a considerable sum in it, gave orders that no one should go out to beg. He was a conscientious man, and said, that as they had already enough, the people must not be importuned tor more, until what they possessed was finished. He kept the whole community within the walls of the convent for the term of two or three years, for which each guardian is ap- pointed. On another occasion, the friars of a Franciscan convent chose for their guardian a young man, whose life had been very irregularly spent in any thing rather than the duties of his calling, under the idea, that, during the con- tinuance of his guardianship, they would lead a merry life, — that very little attention would be paid to the rules and regu- lations of the Order ; but they were mistaken ; he changed his habits as soon as he found himself at their head ; the gates were rigidly closed at the proper hour, and according to the old and vulgar proverb, of " Set a thief," &c. the duties of the convent were performed with much greater austerity than before. E 3 m 6'4 PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. three exist. These are directed by elderly females, who have not taken any vows, and who educate young persons of their own sex, and re- ceive individuals whose conduct has been incor- rect, but whose characters are not notorious,, and who are placed here by their relations to pre- vent further shame. The number of churches, chapels, and niches in the streets for saints, is quite preposterous ; to these are attached a mul- titude of religious lay brotherhoods, of which the members are merchants, and other persons in trade, and even some are composed of mulatto and black free people. Some of these continu- ally beg for a supply of wax, and other articles to be consumed in honour of their patron. Almost every day in the year, passengers are importuned in the streets, and the inhabitants in their houses, by some of these people, and among others, by the lazy Franciscan friars. A Portuguese gentleman refused to give money for any of these purposes, but after each appli- cation, threw into a bag, placed apart for the purpose, a 5 reis coin, the smallest in use, and in value the third part of a penny. At the end of a twelvemonth, he counted his 5 reh pieces, and found that they amounted to 30,000 rets, about 8/. 6s. He then applied to the vicar of his parish, requesting him to name some dis- tressed person to whom he should give the money. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 55 The Holy Office or Inquisition has never had an establishment in Brazil, but several priests resided in Pernambuco, employed as its fami- liars, and sometimes persons judged amenable to this most horrid tribunal, have been sent un- der confinement to Lisbon. However, the ninth article of the Treaty of Friendship and Alliance, between the crowns of England and Portugal, signed at the Rio de Janeiro in 1810, has com- pletely determined, that the power of the Inqui- sition shall not be recognised in Brazil. It will appear surprising to English persons, that in a place so large as Recife, there should be no printing-press or bookseller. At the convent of the Madre de Deos, are sold almanacks, prints and histories of the Virgin and Saints, and other productions of the same description, but of very limited size, printed at Lisbon. The post- office is conducted in a very irregular manner. The letters from England are usually delivered at the house of the merchant to whom the ship which conveyed them is consigned, or at the office of the British consul. There is no estab- lished means of forwarding letters to any part of the interior of the country, nor along the coast, so that the post-office merely receives the letter- bags which are brought by the small vessels that trade with other ports along this coast, and sends the bags from Pernambuco by the same convey- ances j and as there is not any regular delivery e 4? Hi 56 CRIMINALS. of letters, each person must enquire for his own at the office. When the commerce of Brazil was trifling, compared to its present state, a post- office managed in this manner was sufficient; but in consequence of the increased activity of the trade along the coast, and with Europe, some attention ought to be given to the subject, to fa- cilitate communication. There is a theatre at Recife, in which are performed Portuguese farces, but the establishment is most wretchedly conducted. The Botanic Garden at Olinda is one of those institutions which have arisen from the removal of the Court to South America ; it is intended as a nursery for exotic plants, from whence they are to be distributed to those persons who are willing and capable of rearing them. Thus the bread-fruit tree has been introduced, the black pepper plant, the large Otaheitan cane, and several others. I much fear, however, that the zeal shown at the commencement has somewhat cooled. A botanist has been appointed with an adequate salary. He is a Frenchman, who had resided at Cayenne, and with this choice many persons were much dissatisfied, as it was thought, and with good reason, that a Portuguese subject might have been found, quite capable of taking the management of the garden. The sight, of all others, the most offensive to an Englishman, is that of the criminals, wh<* CRIMINALS. 57 perform the menial offices of the palace, the barracks, the prisons, and other public build- ings. They are chained in couples, and each couple is followed by a soldier, armed with a bayonet. They are allowed to stop at the shops, to obtain any trifle which they may wish to pur- chase, and it is disgusting to see with what un- concern the fellows bear this most disgraceful situation, laughing and talking as they go along to each other, to their acquaintance whom they may chance to meet, and to the soldier who follows them as a guard.* The prisons are in a * An anecdote was related to me of one of these couples, which occurred some years ago, under a former Governor. A solitary passenger, between Olinda and Recife, witnessed part of the following scene, and the remainder was described by one of the actors in it. A couple of criminals, of which one was a white man, and the other a negro, accompanied by their guard, were walking over the sands, to reach a ford, and cross the river at its narrowest part. Three horsemen, one of whom led a fourth horse, saddled and bridled, rode up, and one of them knocked the soldier down, whilst the white man of the chained couple urged his companion to go with him to the led horse, and mount up behind him: this the black man refused to do, when one of the horsemen, who seemed to direct the others, called out, " Cut the fellow's leg off." The criminals are secured to each other by the ancle. The negro now agreed, and both mounted the horse, and the whole party galloped away, first binding the soldier hand and foot. They passed through Olinda at full speed, and when they had arrived at some distance, a large file was made use of, and the negro was set down with all the chains and bolts. The party then proceeded, and were never after- wards heard of. It was imagined, that the man who made ^B 58 CRIMINALS. very bad state, little attention being paid to the situation of their inhabitants. Executions are rare at Pernambuco ; the more usual punish- ment inflicted, even for crimes of the first mag- nitude, is transportation to the coast of Africa. White persons must be removed for trial to Ba- hia, for crimes of which the punishment is death. Even to pass sentence of death upon a man of colour, or a negro, several judicial offi- cers must be present. There does not exist here a regular police ; when an arrest is to be effected in Recife or its neighbourhood, two officers of justice are accompanied by soldiers, from one or other of the regiments of the line, for this purpose. A ronda or patrole, consist- ing of soldiers, parades the streets during the night, at stated periods, but it is not of much service to the town. Recife and its vicinity were formerly in a very tranquil state, owing to the exertions of one individual ; he was a ser- geant in the regiment of Recife, a courageous man, whose activity of mind and body had had no field upon which to act, until he was em- ployed in the arduous task of apprehending cri- minals, and at last he received special orders from the governor for patroling the streets of his escape in this manner, was the relation of a rich person in the interior, who had either committed some crime, or had been thus unjustly punished. MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT. 59 Recife, Olinda, and the villages around them ; he and his followers were much dreaded, but at his death no one stepped into his place. * The military establishment is much neglected. The regular troops consist of two regiments of infantry, which ought to form together a body of c 2,500 men, but they seldom collect more effective than 600 ; so that sufficient numbers can scarcely be mustered to do the duty of the town of Recife, of Olinda, and the foils. Their pay is less than 2f d. per day, and a portion of the flour of the mandioc weekly, and their cloathing is afforded to them very irregularly. From their miserable pay, rather more than one farthing per day is held back for a religious pur- pose. Recruits are made of some of the worst individuals in the province ; this mode of re- cruiting, and their most wretched pay, account completely for the depreciated character of the soldiers of the line.t They are formed chiefly * Lately, a cadet has come forwards, and has taken the direction of these matters; he has apprehended several per- sons of infamous character, but of determined courage ; he has done much good, risking his life under circumstances of great danger, and even to extreme rashness has he been car- ried by his zeal. This young man well deserves promotion. That thus the police should fall into the hands of inferior officers, shows the irregular footing upon which it stands. — 1814. f The arrival of another colonel to the regiment of Recite, and the increase of activity in the officers, has altered its ap- pearance much for the better. The regiment of Olinda or HB 60 FERNANDO DE N0R0NHA. of Brazilians, and people of colour. Besides these regiments, the militia of the town some- times do duty without pay, and these make but a sorry show. The militia regiments, com- manded by mulatto and black officers, and formed entirely of men of these casts, are very- superior in appearance ; but these I shall have again an opportunity of mentioning. There is one political arrangement of this province which, above all others, cries aloud for alteration ; it is a glaring, self-evident evil, it is a disgrace upon the government which suffers its existence. I speak of the small island of Fer- nando de Noronha. To this spot are transport- ed, for a number of years or for life, a great number of male criminals. No females are per- mitted to visit the island. The garrison, con- sisting of about 120 men, is relieved yearly. It is a very difficult matter to obtain a priest to serve for a twelvemonth, as chaplain in the island. When the bishop is applied to by the governor, for a person of this calling, he sends some of his ecclesiastical officers in search of one ; the persons of the profession, who are liable to be sent, conceal themselves, and the matter usually concludes by a young priest being of artillery, has been also much improved by the attention of its colonel, and the entrance into it of several well-educated Brazilian officers of the first families. FERNANDO DE NORONHA. 61 literally pressed into the service. The vessel employed between Recife and the island, visits it twice during the same period, and carries provisions, clothing, and other articles to the miserable beings, who are compelled to remain there, and for the troops. I have conversed with persons who have resided upon it, and the accounts I have heard of the enormities com- mitted there, are most horrible; crimes, punished capitally or severely in civilised states, or which at least are held in general abhorrence, are here practised, talked of, publicly acknowledged, without shame, and without remorse. Strange it is, that the dreadful state of this place should have so long escaped the notice of the supreme Government of Brazil. But the evil ends not here ; the individuals who return to Pernam- buco, cannot shake off the remembrance of crimes which have become familiar to them. The powers, likewise, conceded to the com- mandant, whose will is absolute, have oftentimes proved too great for due performance ; punish- ment seldom follows. The most wanton tyranny may be practised almost without fear of retribu- tion. The climate of the island is good, and the small portion of it admitting of cultivation, 1 have understood, from competent authority, to be of extraordinary fertility. It does not, how- ever, afford any shelter for shipping. The supineness of the ancient system upon nmwg rj?t : ,H", >•<■,. ;;';'V^«i^-;^,;^'- 62 FERNANDO DE NORONHA. which Brazil was ruled, is still too apparent throughout ; but the removal of the Sovereign to that country has roused many persons who had been long influenced by habits of indolence, and has increased the activity of others who have impatiently awaited a field for its display. The Brazilians feel of more importance, their native soil now gives law to the mother-country ; their spirit, long kept under severe subjection to ancient colonial rules and regulations, has now had some opportunities of showing itself, — has proved, that though of long suffering, and patient of endurance, it does exist, and that if its possessors are not treated as men instead of children, it will break forth, and rend asunder those shackles to which they have forbearingly submitted. I hope, however, most sincerely, that the supreme Government may see the ne- cessity of reformation, and that the people will not expect too much, but consider that many hardships are preferable to a generation of blood- shed, confusion, and misery. Freedom of communication with other na- tions has already been of service to the country, and the benefits which it imparts are daily aug- menting. This shoot from our European con- tinent will ultimately increase, and a plant will spring up, infinitely more important than the branch from which it proceeded; and though the season of this maturity is far distant, yet the 12 FERNANDO DE N0R0NHA. 53 rapidity of its advance or tardiness of its growth greatly depends upon the fostering care or in- different negligence of its rulers. Still, what- ever the conduct of these may be, its extent, its; fertility, and other numerous advantages must, in the course of time, give to it that rank which it has a right to claim among the great nations of the world. ■ .;ir;-v>;;^ ^H ( 64 ) CHAP. IV. JOURNEY TO GOIANA. —JOURNEY FROM GOiANA TO PARAIBA, AND BACK TO GOIANA. [ HAD much desired to perform some con- siderable journey into the less populous and less cultivated part of the country. The chief engineer officer of Pernambuco had intended to visit all the fortresses within his extensive dis- trict, and had kindly promised to permit me to accompany him, but unfortunately his projected journey was delayed from some cause connected with his place, until the following season. As I did not know how soon 1 might be under the necessity of returning to England, I could not postpone my views for this length of time, and therefore made enquiries among my friends and acquaintance, and discovered that the brother of a gentleman resident at Goiana, was about to set off for that place, and would, probably, from thence proceed further into the country, with some object in view connected with trade. It was my intention to advance as far as Seara. I applied to the governor for a passport, which was immediately granted without any difficulty. On the afternoon of the 19th October, 1810, JOURNEY TO GOIANA. 65 some of my English friends accompanied me to my cottage at the Cruz das Almas, that they might be present at my departure, in the course of the ensuing night. Senhor Feliz, my com- panion, arrived in the evening, bringing with him his black guide, a freeman. Preparations were made for proceeding upon our journey, and about one o'clock, as the moon rose, we sallied forth. Senhor Feliz, myself, and my English servant John on horseback, armed with swords and pistols; the black guide also on horseback, without saddle or bridle, carrying a blunderbuss, and driving on before him a bag- gage-horse, with a little mulatto boy mounted between the panniers. My English friends cheered us as we left the Cruz, and remained in my quarters, the command of which I had given up to one of them during my absence. That part of the road which we traversed by moon-light I had already passed over a short time before, and subsequently, from frequent travelling, my acquaintance with it was such, that I might have become a guide upon it. We rode along a sandy path for three quarters of a league, until we began to ascend a steep hill, of which the sides and the flat summit are covered with large trees, and thick brushwood growing beneath them. The hamlet of Beberibe stands at the foot of the corresponding declivity j to this place several families resort in the sum. rot. i. f OB m «G JOURNEY TO GOIANA. mer, and a small rivulet runs through it, of which the water is most beautifully clear. Half a league beyond Beberibe we- crossed another rivulet, and immediately afterwards commenced our ascent of the hill of Quebracu, which is in most parts very steep and very narrow, being inclosed on one side by a precipice, and on the other by sloping ground covered with wood. This ridge of hill is quite flat along the top, and the path continues for half a league, between lofty trees and impenetrable brushwood. We descended into the long and narrow valley of Merueira, through which a rivulet runs, of which the water never fails. The hills on each side are thickly clothed with wood, and in the valley are scattered several cottages, banana gardens, and mandioc lands, with a large en- closed piece of ground in which cattle graze. The ascent, on the opposite side of this beautiful vale, is very steep ; the path along the summit of the ridge is similar to that over which we had travelled ; we soon again descended, and on our arrival at the bottom, entered the long, strag- gling village of Paratibe, with mandioc lands and plaintain and tobacco gardens intermixed with the houses. The inhabitants are mostly labour- ing free persons, white, mulatto, and black. The houses are built on each side of the road at intervals, for the distance of one mile. A rivulet runs through it, which in the rainy season often *3 JOURNEY TO GOIAXA. c? overflows its banks to a considerable distance on each side. Beyond this village the road is com- paratively flat, but is still diversified by unequal small elevations ; several sugar-works are seen, and great numbers of small cottages ; the passing of the country-people with loaded horses, carry- ing cotton, hides, and other articles, the produce of the country, and returning with many kinds of wares, salt meat, and fish from Recife, may almost be called continual. The town of Iguarac^u, which we now entered, has been already mentioned in a former chapter ; it is one of the oldest settlements upon this part of the coast, and stands at the distance of two leagues from the sea upon the banks of a creek. The woods, that border the paths or roads, are in parts so thick and close as to be impassable even to a man on foot, unless he carries in his hand a bill-hook or hatchet to assist in breaking through the numberless obstacles which oppose his progress. Of these the most formidable is the cipo ; a plant consisting of long and flexible shoots which twist themselves around the trees, and as some of the sprouts, which have not yet fixed upon any branch, are moved to and fro by the wind, they catch upon a neighbouring tree, and as the operation continues for many years undisturbed, a kind of net-work is made of irre- gular form, but difficult to pass through. Of this plant there are several varieties ; that which F c i ESI 70 JOURNEY TO GOIANA. siderable stream we had yet seen tins day, called Araripe, and entered the enclosed Held attached to the engenho, or sugar-works, of Araripe de Baixo, belonging to a Portuguese. We expected to have obtained a dinner from this good man, but after considerable delay, to the great discomfort of our stomachs, we under- stood from our host, that his intended hospi- tality would not be in readiness, until the day would have been too much broken into by the additional delay ; therefore we again mounted our horses about two o'clock, with a broiling sun, ascended another steep hill, passed several sugar-works and cottages, and crossed several rivulets, traversing a most delightful country. We rode through the hamlets of Bu and Fon- tainhas, at the former of which there is a chapel. From the latter the road is chiefly over a sandy plain, almost without wood, until the engenho of Bujiri is discovered with its field of grass and woods around. Immediately beyond it is to be forded the river of Goiana, influenced by the tide as far as this spot. The wooden bridge which formerly existed was now fast decaying and dangerous for horses ; we gave ours to the guide, who led them through the water, riding upon his own, whilst we found our way across some loose beams. This opera- tion did not delay us long; we received our steeds from the guide, with their saddles wet JOURNEY TO GOIANA. 71 and themselves all dripping, and in a few mi- nutes more entered the town of Goiana, between four and five o'clock in the afternoon. The dis- tance from Recife to Goiana is fifteen leagues, The road we had travelled over is the high- way from the Sertam *, by which the cattle descend from the estates upon the river Acu, and from the plains of this portion of the in- terior to the markets of Recife ; therefore the continued passing of large droves of cattle lias beat down the underwood, and made a broad sandy road ; the large trees still remain, if it has so happened that any grew upon the track ; these, if of any size, brave the crowd of animals, and will remain either until they decay from age and fall, or till regular roads begin to be constructed in Brazil. Thus, if the ground is flat, the road is not bad ; but upon the sides of hills, instead of being carried round the steepest ascents, the track has been made straight up and down or nearly so, and the winter torrents form deep caverns and ravines, the sides of which some- times fall in and make the roads very dangerous; so that, unless well acquainted with a hill, it is by no means safe to ascend or descend by night, as one or two days of the usual rain of Brazil may have made a great difference, and have * Is this word abbreviated from Desertam. used as an augmentative (according to the Portuguese custom) lor Deserto ? F 4/ 74 JOURNEY TO GOIANA. We dined on one occasion with the proprietor of the Musumbu estate ; this gentleman and a few others, besides ourselves, dined in one apart- ment, whilst the ladies, of whom we were not permitted even to have a transient view, were in another adjoining. Two young men, sons of the proprietor, assisted their father's slaves in waiting upon us at dinner, and did not sit down themselves until we rose from table. The owner of the place is a Portuguese. It is among this portion of the population, who have left their own country to accumulate fortunes in Brazil, that the introduction of improvement is almost impossible. Many Brazilians likewise, even of the higher class, follow the Moorish customs of subjection and seclusion; but these soon see the preference which ought to be given to more civilised manners, and easily enter into more polished habits, if they have any communication with the towns. On the 24th of October, I delivered a letter of introduction which I had obtained at Recife, to the Dr. Manuel Arruda da Carnara. This interesting person then lay at Goiana very ill of dropsy, brought on by residing in aguish dis- tricts. He was an enterprising man, and had always been an enthusiast in botany. His superior abilities would have caused him to be caressed by a provident Government, when one of this description is establishing itself in an unculti- JOURNEY TO PARAIBA. lo vated but improving country. He showed me some of his drawings, which I thought well executed. I never again had an opportunity of seeing him ; for when I returned from Seara, I had not time to enquire and seek for him, and he died before my second voyage to Pernam- buco. He was forming a Flora Pernambueana, which he did not live to complete. Senhor Joaquim had business at Paraiba, which he intended to have sent his brother Felix to transact ; but as I offered to accompany him, he thought it would be pleasant to go with me, and show the lions of that city. We sent ofi fiis black guide and my servant with a loaded fiorse before us, and followed the next day with his black boy. We crossed the Campinas de Goiana Grande about sunrise, and passed the sugar-plantation of that name, belonging to Senhor Giram, standing at the foot of the hill, which carries you to the Dous Rios. The road I afterwards followed to Rio Grande, is through Dous Rios, but the road to Paraiba strikes off just before you reach it, to the right. The road between Goiana and Paraiba presents nothing particularly interesting, — the hills are steep but not high, and woods, plantations, and cot- tages are, as usual, the objects to be seen. The distance is thirteen leagues. We entered the city of Paraiba at twelve o'clock, and rode to the house of the colonel Mattias da Gama, a v .>r, HBB 70 PARAIBA. man of property, and a colonel of militia. He was an acquaintance of Senhor Joaquim, and was about to leave the place for one of his sugar- plantations, which he did, giving us entire pos- session of his house, and a servant to attend upon us. The city of Paraiba (for much smaller places even than this bear the rank of city in these yet thinly peopled regions) contains from two to three thousand inhabitants, including the lower town. It bears strong marks of having been a place of more importance than it is now, and though some improvements were going on, they were conducted entirely through the means which Government supplied for them, or rather, the Governor wished to leave some memorial of his administration of the province. The prin- cipal street is broad and paved with large stones, but is somewhat out of repair. The houses are mostly of one story, with the ground- floors as shops, and a few of them have glass windows ; an improvement which has been only lately introduced into Recife. The Jesuits' convent is employed as the governor's palace, and the Ouvidor's office and residence also ; the church of the convent stands in the centre, and these are the two wings. The convents of the Franciscan, Carmelite, and Benedictine Or- ders are very large buildings, and are almost un- inhabited ; the first contains four or five friars, PARA1BA. 77 the second two, and the third only one. Be- sides these, the city has to boast of six churches. The public fountains at Paraiba are the only works of the kind I met with any where on the part of the coast which I visited. One was built, I believe, by Amaro Joaquim, the former governor, — it is handsome, and has several spouts ; the other, which was only then build- ing, is much larger, and the superintendence of the workmen w T as the chief amusement of the governor. We waited upon this gentleman the day after our arrival ; my companion had been acquainted with him in Lisbon, when he was an ensign. His parents were respectable people in one of the northern provinces of Portugal ; he was placed at some seminary for the purpose of being educated for the church, but he escaped from thence, and enlisted as a private soldier in Lisbon. One of the officers of the regiment in which he was enrolled, soon found out that he was a man of education, — having learnt his story, he was made a cadet, as being of good family. He came over in the same ship with the Princess of Brazil, a captain of infantry ; married one of the maids of honour on their arrival at Rio de Janeiro, and in about eighteen months, had advanced from a captaincy to the government of Paraiba, and a commandery of the Order of Christ. We next crossed to the Stfi 78 I'AKAIBA. other wing of the building, and paid a visit to the Ouvidor, a very affable and good-humoured old gentleman. His chaplain, a jolly little friar, and an old acquaintance of Senhor Joaquim, made his appearance, and was afterwards very civil to us during our stay. The prospect from the windows presents Brazil scenery of the best kind ; extensive and evergreen woods, bounded by a range of hills, and watered by several branches of the river, with here and there a white-washed cottage, placed upon their banks, and these, though they were situated on higher spots of land, were still half concealed by the lofty trees. The cultivated specks were so small, as to be scarcely perceptible. The lower town consists of^mall houses, and is situated upon the borders of a spacious basin or lake, formed by the junction of three rivers, which from hence discharge their waters into the sea, by one considerable stream. The banks of the basin are covered with mangroves, as in all the salt water rivers of this country ; and they are so close and thick, that there seems to be no outlet. I did not follow the river down to the sea, but I understand that there are in it some fine islands, with good land, quite un- cultivated. * Paraiba was the scene of much * A person with whom I was afterwards acquainted, has since cleared one of these islands, and has formed some salt- trorkj upon it. POLICE OF PARAIBA. 79 fighting during the Dutch war, and I now re- gret not having proceeded down the river, to the famous Fort of Cabedello. This war was conducted upon a small scale, but the deeds which were performed by the brave defenders of their country, may rank with those which any other people have displayed in a cause of equal import to the actors. The trade of Paraiba is inconsiderable, though the river admits of vessels of 150 tons upon the bar ; and when in the basin, opposite to the lower town, a rope yarn would keep them still, as no harm could reach them. It contains a re- gular custom-house, which is seldom opened. Paraiba lies out of the road from the Sertam t to Recife, that is, out of the direct way from the towns upon the coast further north. The in- habitants of the Sertam of the interior, will make for Recife rather than Paraiba, as the more ex- tensive market for their produce. The port of Recife admits of larger vessels, and has more conveniences for the landing and shipment of goods, consequently it obtains the preference. The houses of this place, which may be reckoned f The word Sertam is used rather indefinitely, as it does not only mean the interior of the country, but likewise a great part of the coast, of which the population is yet scanty, receives this general name. Thus, the whole of the country tK'tween Rio Grande and Pernaiba is called Sertam. Per- naiba i.«s a small province, sitiitted between Seara and Maranham. BW^WWHHW 80 POLICE OF PARAIBA. handsome from a general comparison of the country, have been built by the great land- holders in the neighbourhood, as a residence during the depth of the winter, or rainy season. The lands of the captaincy are, generally speak- ing, rich and fertile, but so great a preference is given to plantations nearer to Recife, that those of Paraiba are to be purchased at a much les^ price. The sugar of this province is reckoned equal to that of any part of Brazil. I soon saw what was to be seen, and we had no society; time, however, did not appear to hang heavy, for Senhor Joaquim was a man of inexhaustible good humour and hilarity. We lived by magic, as the colonel had ordered his servant to supply every thing for us. The late governor, Amaro Joaquim, brought the captaincy into great order, by his necessary severity. A custom prevailed, of persons walk- ing about the town at night in large cloaks, and crape over their faces ; thus concealed, to carry on their irregular practices. The governor, not being able to discover who these persons were, gave orders one night for the patrole to take into custody all who were so dressed ; this was done, and some of the principal inhabitants were found the next morning in the guard- house. A man of the name of Nogueira, the son of a black or mulatto woman, and of one of the first men in the captaincy, had made him- RETURN TO GOIANA. 81 self much dreaded by his outrageous proceed- ings ; he had carried from their parents' houses the daughters of some persons of respectability in the captaincy, murdering the friends and re- latives who opposed his entrance. The man was at last taken j Amaro Joaquim would have had him executed, but he found this was not to be done, from the interest which the family made for him, and therefore ordered him to be flogged. Nogueira said, that being half & Jidalgo, a nobleman, this mode of punishment could not be practised upon him. The governor then or- dered that he should be flogged upon only one side of his body, that his Jidalgo side might not suffer, desiring Nogueira to say which was his Jidalgo side. He was accordingly punished in this manner, and after remaining some time in prison, was sent to Angola for life. The city of Paraiba still enjoyed the good effects of Amaro Joaquim's strict government. I was acquainted with him at Pernambuco, before I set off on this journey ; his appearance and his conversation both bespoke a man of supe- rior abilities. When I saw him in Recife, he was on his way to Piauhi, of which captaincy he had been appointed governor. He died on board a coasting vessel, on the passage to Piauhi, of a fever. Senhor Joaquim wished to return by the sea shore toGoiana, a distance of twenty-two leagues. VOL. I, a ■l^Hi RflHBMJWQIli'Mifl HS^kSHkBI m RETURN TO GOIANA. We set off at the time the tide was flowing, and proceeded along the beach, until about eleven o'clock we reached the house of a Capitam-mor, quite a first-rate man in this part of the world. It was a mud cottage, as bad or worse than that of any labourer in England, situated upon the burning sands, with a pool of salt water before the door, which is never quite dry, consequently breeds insects of all kinds. We crossed two ferries in the course of the morning ; the con- veyances are small jangadas * ; the saddle is placed upon it, and the horse swims by the side, whilst the rider stands upon the raft, and holds the reins. The ferryman either paddles across the stream, or poles if it be not too deep. About three o'clock, we found that we had entered upon a considerable track of sand, enclosed by perpendicular rocks, against which the water mark was at some height ; however, the tide was already on the ebb ; we made our guide mount the horse, which until now he had driven before him, and keep pace with us, whilst we quicken- ed ours. The tide was still very near to the rocks, and we found that the water still reached one which projected further than the rest, there- fore as we were yet hemmed in, we left our horses, and climbed up this rock. The guide, * The rafts employed upon small rivers are of a construc- tion similar to those already described on a former occasion, save that still less workmanship is bestowed upon them. RETURN TO GOIANA. 83 in the mean time, drove the loose horses into the water ; they fortunately leaned to the right, passed out far enough to see the land on the other side of the rock, and made for it. I was getting over the rock, missed my footing, and fell up to my arms into a hole between two pieces of it ; however, I succeeded in raising myself, and leaped from it on to the sand on the other side, just at the return of a Avave, by which means I had an unintentional cold bath up to my waist. We might certainly have waited to have allowed the tide to retreat, but were afraid of being benighted, which, after all our exertions, did happen to us. The coun- try, on the other side of the projecting rock, is low, and sandy uncultivated land. At dusk, we arrived upon the banks of a broad stream, so that by the light which then remained, we could not see the other side ; after several calls, the ferryman did not make his appearance, and the night closed in. I advised sleeping under the tree which then sheltered us ; to this my com- panion would not consent, but asked the dis- tance to Abia, the nearest sugar-plantation; the guide answered three leagues, — we must either sleep where we were, or go to Abia. We had already advanced sixteen leagues, and Senhor Joaquim's horse, a fine highly fed animal, began to give way. The guide led, and we followed, through a narrow path, very little frequented, g2 ■ 84. ALHANDRA. as the bushes oftentimes nearly took off our hats, and were continually brushing against us the whole way. On our arrival at Abia, the house was quite deserted, as the steward was from home, and we did not like to enter a cot- tage which stood near to the principal house, when we found that the party in it was larger than our own, and not likely to be of the best kind. We had now another half league to go to Senhor Leonardo's, a friend of my fellow- traveller. He gave us a good supper, and hammocks, took good care of our horses, and in the morn- ing we set forth for Goiana, seven ' leagues. We passed through Alhandra, an Indian village, containing about six hundred inhabitants. This village is not so regularly built as many of the others which I have seen ; instead of a square, with houses on each side, it is built in streets, and though the square is preserved, still it is not the principal feature of the place. The Indians of Alhandra, from their vicinity to Goiana, which is distant about three leagues, are not so pure as those further from a large town ; they have admitted among them some mamalucos and mestizos. Great part of this extent of coast was unin- habited, but wherever the land was low, and the surf not violent, there we found a few cot- tages ; the banks of the rivers were also not ALHAND RA. 85 entirely destitute of inhabitants. The two streams which we first crossed might be about eighty or one hundred yards in breadth ; they are deep, but do not proceed far into the coun- try. When the action of the tide ceases, all these lesser streams become insignificant, and most of them quite dry. The great river which we were to have crossed is the Goiana; it spreads very widely when the tide enters, but is easily passed at the ebb, and the channel becomes much contracted, and very shallow during the spring-tides. It is judged to be about a league in breadth, at its mouth, and is much deeper immediately within the bar than upon it. g 3 ■+\~r-':Ps* ,'??.<■ i:. ;-v\\T, ■ .-;.'■<". v ;^t , .r.vVt".''.:.^',-. ^H ■ ■ ■ .■•';v . >f. ( 86 ) CHAP. V. JOURNEY FROM GOIANA TO RIO GRANDE. — .THE Cl'ftf OF NATAL. — THE GOVERNOR. f HAD entertained hopes of being accompa- nied by Senhor Joaquim, at least as far as Rio Grande, but he changed his mind, and I began to make the necessary arrangements for going alone. I purchased three more horses, and hired a guide for the Sertam, who was a white man of the country, and two Indian lads of about sixteen years of age. On the 3d November, I again set forth, accompanied by my English John, Francisco the guide, Julio, and the other boy his companion. We only reached Dous Rios the same evening, which is two leagues distant from Goiana ; we had left that place late in the day, and got on very slowly, as the two loads upon the horses were not well divided and arranged. I now found, on stopping for the night, that I had not provided as many things as were necessary ; that I wanted an addi- tional piece of baize to cover myself at night, that we ought to have brought more kitchen apparatus, and that knives and forks were to be had very rarely. I had with me a trunk with JOURNEY FROM GOIANA TO RIO GRANDE. 87 my clothes on one side of the pack-saddle, and a case with some bottles of rum and wine on the other side, and my hammock in the middle; these made one load. The other horse carried in the malas, a kind of trunk, on the one side our provisions, and on the other the clothes of my people, additional ropes, and other tackle. I was far from being well supplied, but after- wards provided myself with more things as I went on, learning by experience. The ham- mocks are all made of cotton, and are of several sizes and colours, and of various workmanship. Those in use among the lower orders, are made of cotton-cloth, of the manufacture of the country j others are composed of net-work, from which all the several kinds derive the general name of Rede, a net ; others, again, are knit or woven in long straight threads, knotted across at intervals ; these are usually dyed of two or three colours, and are to be found in the houses of wealthy persons. This species of bed has been adopted from the Indians, and nothing more convenient and better adapted to the climate, could possibly be imagined -, it can be wrapped up into a very small compass, and, with the addition of a piece of baize as a coverlid, is usually of sufficient warmth. I could not discover that there was any stream at this place, though it bears the name of Dous Rios, or the two rivers. It is a large open piece g 4 ■■ 88 ESPIRITO SANTO. of land, with cottages upon the skirts, and at- tached to each is a pen for cattle. The great weekly fair for cattle from the Sertam, for the Pernambuco market, is held here. From Dous Rios, we advanced the following day to the sugar-plantation of Espirito Santo, si- tuated upon the banks of the river Paraiba, which becomes dry in the summer, at a short distance above this estate. I had letters to the owner of it, who is a member of the Cavalcante family, and the Capitam-mor of the captaincy of Paraiba. I was received by him in a very friendly manner. The house is in the usual style of the country, having only the ground-floor, and no ceiling, the tiles and rafters being in full view. Supper of dried meat, and the flour of the mandioc made into paste, and called piram, was placed before me; also, some hard biscuits, and red wine. I was not then sufficiently a Brazilian to eat piram, and took the biscuits with the meat in preference, which much astonished my host. Sweetmeats were afterwards brought in, which are always good in the houses of persons of his rank in life \ the opulent people in Brazil taking as much pride in their doces, as an English citizen in his table or his wines. The cloth was laid at one end of a long table, and I sat down by myself, whilst the Capitam-mor placed himself upon the table, near to the other end, and talked to me ; and some of the chief persons of his establishment JOURNEY FROM GOIANA TO RIO GRANDE. 89 stood around, to see the strange animal called an Englishman. We adjourned from the supper- room into another spacious apartment, and each of us took a hammock, of which there were se- veral in the room, and swung and talked until we were half asleep. One of his men supposed, that as I spoke Portuguese, either I must be an Eng- lishman who did not speak English, or that any Portuguese, on going to England, would imme- diately speak the language of that country, as I did Portuguese. The Capitam-mor seldom leaves his estate to go to Recife, or even to Paraiba, and lives in the usual style of the Brazilian gentry, in a kind of feudal state. He had several young men about him, some of whom were employed by him *, neither his wife, nor any of his children appeared. The principal apartments of this house are two spacious rooms, having a great number of doors and windows ; in one, were several ham- mocks and a sofa ; and in the other, the long table upon which I supped ; there were a few chairs in each of them ; the floors were of brick, and the shutters and doors were unpainted. The owner of this mansion wore a shirt and a pair of drawers, a long bed-gown, called a chambre, and a pair of slippers. This is the usual dress of those persons who have no work to perform. When a. Brazilian takes to wearing one of these long gowns, he begins to think himself a gentleman, and entitled, consequently, to much respect. 90 JOURNEY FROM G01ANA TO RIO GRANDE. The next day we advanced about seven leagues, and, for the first time, I slept in the open air. We intended to have taken up our lodging for the night at a neighbouring hamlet, but the huts were so small and miserable, being con- structed of the leaves of palm trees, that I pre- ferred the open air. We made for the rivulet which runs at a little distance from these habita- tions ; the horses were immediately unloaded, and their pack-saddles taken off, that they might roll in comfort. The next thing to be done, was to get fire-wood, — in most parts of the country it is very plentiful ; and as we were upon the skirts of a thick wood, there was here no want of it. A light was struck, and two fires made ; we got an additional pan from one of the neigh- bouring huts, and our dried meat was cooked. The meat is dried in the old Indian manner, by laying it upon a platform of twigs, raised about eighteen inches from the ground, and making a fire underneath. We discovered that not far off) a field or piece of land, rather more cleared of wood than the rest, was rented by a cottager, who would allow our horses to be put into it for a vintem, about five farthings each, for the night, which the guide thought I should consider dear, and therefore told me, it was the usual price. As may be supposed, I made no great difficulties on this score, and the horses were taken to the place by Julio and his companion. I now JOURNEY FROM GOIANA TO RIO GRANDE. 91 thought myself settled for the night, and there- fore ate my supper, sitting in my hammock, which was slung between two trees, with the plate upon one of the trunks ; having finished, I took my segar, and sat down close to the fire ; the guide lighted his pipe, and placed himself on the opposite side, that we might have a talk about our proceedings for the morrow. I re- turned to my hammock about ten o'clock, but found the air very sharp, and consequently laid down under the lee of the fire, upon a hide, of which we had two for covering the loads in case of rain. This was to me a new scene. When I thought of the complete change of habits which this kind of life required, and how entirely different it was from any thing in England, I may almost say in Europe, — when I looked round, and saw our several fires, for the cold air had, by this time, obliged each person to have his own ; the men all asleep, our pack-saddles, trunks, and other parts of our baggage scattered about, as it was taken from the horses, — when I heard the running of the water, and che rustling of the trees ; and, when I considered, that I was en- tering among a people with whose habits I was little acquainted, whose feelings towards my countrymen I was ignorant of, — I felt a kiad of damp ; but this was soon removed, by think- ing of the pleasure of return, and of the accom- 9« MAMANGUAPE. plishment of what I was deemed incapable of per « forming. I was cheered by my recollection of the knowledge I had of the language, and by the determination I felt within me of conforming to the customs of the people, — of submitting to their prejudices. I was not old enough to have contracted any habits, too deep to be laid aside when necessary. These thoughts were inter- rupted by the cry of " Jezus," which was re- peated every half minute in a dismal voice ; I called to the guide, supposing it to proceed from some person in distress ; he waked, and 1 told him what had made me call to him, — he said, it was only some person helping another, " a bem morrer" that is, that some dying per- son, which I found was the usual custom, had a friend to repeat the word " Jezus" until the sufferer expired, that it might not be forgotten, and, perhaps, to keep the devil off. I dined the following day at the village of Mamanguape, situated upon the banks of a dry river ; it is a thriving place. These more mo- dern villages have been built in one long street upon the road, the older ones in a square. It had then about three hundred inhabitants ; but I have since heard, that the number is more than doubled, and that new houses are building. The river can scarcely be reckoned of any advantage to the village ; but the place forms a convenient break between Goiana and Rio cunhAO. 93 Grande for the travelling pedlars, a useful, in- dustrious, and, generally, honest set of men, as their resting-place and head-quarters ; from hence they make daily excursions to the planta- tions, at a little distance, and return here to sleep. I passed the night in the out-houses of some sugar-works ; my guide was much aston- ished at my not asking for lodgings at the caza- grande, or owner's house ; but I preferred these kind of quarters to better ones, where I might run the risk of being obliged to remain half the night awake, for the purpose of giving news. The hospitality, however, of the planters is very great; and no recommendation is necessary, though I had provided myself with a few letters. The next day we proceeded to Cunhau, the sugar-plantation of the Colonel Andre d* Albu- querque do Maranham, the chief of the Maran- ham. branch of this numerous and distinguished family of the Albuquerques. He is a man of immense landed property. The plantation of Cunhau extends along the road fourteen leagues, and the owner has since purchased another large estate adjoining ; his lands likewise in the Ser- tam for breeding cattle are supposed not to be less than thirty to forty leagues in extent — of those kind of leagues that sometimes take a man three or four hours to get over one. I had letters to him from some of his relations and friends at Pernambuco. He was sitting at 94 CUNHA0. his door, with his chaplain and several of \m stewards and other persons employed by him, to have all the benefit of the fresh air. He is a man of about thirty years of age, handsome, and rather above the middle size, with genteel man- ners, rather courtly, as the Brazilians of educa- tion generally are. He lives quite in feudal state ; his negroes and other dependants are numerous. He commands the regiment of mi- litia cavalry of Rio Grande, and has them in good order, considering the state of the country. He came forwards on my dismounting, and I gave him the letters, which he put by to read at leisure, and then desiring me to sit down, asked me several questions of my wishes, intentions, &c. He took me to his guests' apartments at a little distance from his own residence, where I found a good bed; hot water was brought to me in a large brass basin, and every necessary was supplied in a magnificent style — the towels were all fringed, &c. When I had dressed my- self, I expected to be called to supper, but, to my amazement, I waited until near one o'clock, when a servant came to summon me. I found in the dining-room a long table laid out and covered with meat of several kinds, and in quan- tity sufficient for twenty persons ; to this feast the colonel, his chaplain, another person, and myself sat down. When I had tasted until I was quite tired, to my utter dismay another course CUNHAU. 95 came on, equally profuse of fowls, pastry, &c. &c. and when this was removed, I had yet a third to go through of at least ten different kinds of sweetmeats. The supper could not have been better cooked or handsomer, if it had been pre- pared at Recife, and even an English epicure might have found much to please his palate. I was not able to retire to rest until near three o'clock ; my bed was most excellent, and I enjoyed it still more from not expecting to find one. In the morning, the colonel would not allow me to leave his house, until I had break- fasted ; tea, coffee, and cakes were brought in, all of which were very good. He then took me to see his horses, and pressed me much to leave my own, and take one of his for my journey, that mine might be in good condition on my return, and he also urged me to leave my pack- horses, and take some of his ; but as mine were still all in working order, I declined accepting his offer. These circumstances are mentioned to show the frankness with which strangers are treated. I could not get away before ten o'clock, and therefore only advanced two leagues to dinner ; I stopped by the side of a rivulet under some trees, upon a most beautiful spot. At a short distance from the estate of Cunhau, is a hamlet of the same name, through which I passed in my way to the colonel's plantation. This hamlet, or the estate itself, was the scene '■v-r v.'vr-.-.-. 96 cunhaO. of a massacre, which was committed by the Pitagoares and Tapuyas from the Potengi in the year 1645. A battle was fought by Camaram, the Indian chieftain, to whose prowess the Por- tuguese are so much indebted, against the Dutch, in the following year, between Cunhau and Fort Keulen, which stands at the mouth of the Potengi. * The captaincy of Rio Grande commences some leagues to the southward of Cunhau, at a place called Os Marcos — a deep dell inhabited by runaway negroes and criminals ; the paths of the dell are intricate, and when once a man has taken up his residence here, it is impossible to dislodge him. This season the crop of cotton had failed ; it was one of those years in which a great want of" rain was felt. The colonel of Cunhau had, for the first time, planted a piece of land, from which he expected to have gathered 10,000 arrobas y but in the end only gathered about 100; and he told me that he should keep to his sugar hence- forwards. He is lenient to his slaves; they looked fat and well, and he has the character of not making as much of his plantation as he might, which is one proof of his kindness to them. The estate of Cunhau is one of the largest, if not quite the most extensive, in these * History of Brazil, vol. ii. p. 104 and 155* CUNHAU. 97 parts. There are upon it about 150 negroes, and the lands belonging to it would employ four or five times the number, but the colonel pays more attention to cattle, by which his father in- creased his fortune very largely. As usual, on our arrival by the side of the rivulet, the horses were unloaded, and my ham- mock was slung for me. I laid down in my clothes, but soon I started up, finding myself uneasy. The guide saw me, and called out, " O sir, you are covered with carapatos" I then perceived them, and felt still more their bites. Instantly throwing off part of my clothes, but with the remainder upon me I ran into the water, and there began to take them off. The carapato or tick, is a small, flat insect, of a dark brown colour ; about the size of four pins' heads placed together, it fastens upon the skin, and will in time eat its way into it. It is dangerous to pull it out quickly, when already fixed, for if the head remains, inflammation is not unfre- quently the consequence. The point of a heated fork or penknife applied to the insect, when it is too far advanced into the skin to be taken out with the hand, will succeed in loosening it. There is another species of tick of much larger size, and of a lead colour; this is principally troublesome to horses and horned cattle, that are allowed to run loose in lands which have been only partially cleared. I have, in some ih- VOL. I. n 98 SAFARI. stances, seen horses that have had such vast numbers upon them, as to have been weakened by the loss of blood which they have occasioned. The insects of this species of carapato* fasten themselves to the skin, but do not force their way into it. The hammock had fallen to the ground accidentally when taken from the trunk to be slung, and had thus picked up these un- pleasant visitors. I had some trouble in getting them all off, but was successful, as I had attack- ed the enemy in time. We set off again about two o'clock ; I had intended to have ridden until sunset, and then to have put up near to some cottage, but a young man overtook us, and we entered into conver- sation. He lived at Papari, a village about half a league out of the road, and he pressed me so much to accompany him to sleep at his place, that 1 agreed. Papari is a deep and narrow val- ley, a most delightful situation. The whole of the valley is cultivated; and principally this year, the lands were in great request, as the rains had failed, and the high sandy lands had proved bar- ren. For, whilst every other part of the coun- try appeared dry and burnt up, this spot was in full verdure — it appeared to laugh at all around * The castor tree is known in Brazil under the same name ; indeed, there is much similarity between the seed of this plant, from which the oil is extracted, and the larger kind of tick. PAPARI. 99 it, aware of its own superiority. The inhabitants seemed by their countenances to partake of the joyful looks of the land they lived in. Papari yet enjoys another advantage ; though it is at the distance of three or four leagues from the sea, a salt water lake reaches it, so that its in- habitants have the fish brought to their own doors. The tide enters the lake, which is never dry, for although the fresh springs which run into it might fail, still it would always preserve a certain portion of water from the sea. The fishermen come up upon their small river janga- das, which do not require more than twelve inches of water. Papari is about five leagues from Cunhaii. Senhor Dionisio introduced me to his lady ; he is a native of Portugal, and she a Bra- zilian. They possessed a small piece of land in the valley, and appeared to be comfortably situ- ated. Papari may contain about three hundred inhabitants very much scattered. In the course of this year, I afterwards heard, that many per- sons flocked to it from other parts, owing to the absolute want of provisions. I went down to the edge of the lake to see the fishermen arrive, the people of the valley had all assembled to receive them ; it was quite a Billingsgate in mini- ature — save that the Portuguese language does not admit of swearing. We dined in Brazilian style, upon a table raised about six inches from the ground, around jj 2 100 ST. JOZE. which we sat or rather laid down upon mats; we had no forks, and the knives, of which there were two or three, were intended merely to sever the larger pieces of meat — the fingers were to do the rest. I remained at Papari dur- ing one entire day, that my horses might have some respite, that I might purchase another from Senhor Dionisio, and on poor Julio's ac- count, whose feet had begun to crack from the dryness of the sands. Distant from Papari, from three to four leagues, is the Indian village of St. Joze, built in the form of a square ; this place might con- tain about two hundred inhabitants, but it had evidently the appearance of falling to decay ; the grass in the centre of the square was high, the church neglected, and the whole aspect dull. ►St. Joze stands upon a dry sandy soil, and the severity of the season might have contributed to its dismal look. This day we experienced the utter impossibility of trusting to the accounts we received of distances, and my guide had no very clever head for recollecting them, although he, like most of these people, possessed a kind of instinct with respect to the paths we were to follow. We were told that Natal was distant from St. Joze three or four leagues, and there- fore expected to arrive at that place by dusk, but about five o'clock we entered upon the dis mal sand-hills, over which lies the road to the ST. JOZE. 101 city ; the whole country is uninhabited, and I may say uninhabitable, between Natal and St. Joze, consequently we had very faint hopes of meeting any one to give us information of the distance ; but the guide said he supposed we oould not be nearer to it than from two to three leagues, from the recollection he had of these hills, which when once passed over cannot be entirely forgotten. When it was nearly dark, and when our horses were almost giving way, we saw two boys on horseback, coming towards us : we asked them the distance, they answered * 4 Two leagues, and all deep sand," adding, that they belonged to a party, which had come to makejhrinha, upon a spot of land, half a league distant from where we were, upon which man- dioc was cultivated. They said, that to go on to Rio Grande the same night was madness, that they were going a short way to water their horses, and that, on their return, they would guide us to their party. I agreed to wait for them. When they arrived, they struck soon from the road, down the side of one of the hills, — it was now dark ; we followed, entered some high and thick brushwood, and a considerable way into it, found the persons to whom the boys told us they belonged. The implements for making the farinha were placed under a shed, which was thatched with the leaves of the macaiba, and other palm trees. These persons had fixed upon h 3 102 SAND-HILLS. this spot, as there was a spring of brackish water hard by, which was, however, only to be reached by descending a precipice ; the pitcher was fast- ened to a cord, and drawn up, and the person who descended to fill it, ascended the precipice by means of the brushwood which grows upon the side. I did not much like the party, there- fore we took up our lodgings at some little dis- tance from them, and none of us settled regu- larly for the night. I now much regretted not having a dog with me. Our horses passed a wretched night, feeding upon the leaves of the shrubs around us. The next morning we continued our journey over the sand-hills to Natal, travelling at about two miles within the hour. The distance from Goiana to Natal is fifty-five leagues. The sand- hills are perpetually changing their situations and forms ; the high winds blow the sand in clouds, which renders it dangerous to travellers ; it is white, and very fine, so that our horses sunk up to the knees at every step, — painful to a very great degree, when the sun has had full power upon it. Poor Julio had mounted upon the haunches of one of the loaded horses, and occasioned our travelling still slower. All was desolate and dreary ; for the great lightness of the sand almost prevented vegetation, though some of the creeping sea-side plants had sue- ceded here and there in establishing a footing. 14 LANDS. 103 The track of country between Goiana and Espirito Santo, and indeed even to Cunhau, keeping at no great distance from the coast, is appropriated for the most part to sugar-planta- tions; but many of the Senhores de Engenho, sugar-planters, also employ part of their time in raising cotton. The general feature is of an uncultivated country, though a great quantity of land is yearly employed. The system of agriculture is so slovenly, or rather, as there is no necessity for husbandry of land, from the im- mensity of the country, and the smallness of its population, lands are employed one year, and the next the brushwood is allowed to grow up, giv- ing thus to every piece of ground that is not ab- solutely in use that year, the look of one totally untouched, until a person is acquainted, in some measure, from practice, with the appearance of the several kinds of land. He will then per- ceive the difference between brushwood that will not grow because the land is of a barren kind, and that which is left to rise, that the land may rest for another crop. From this manner of cultivating their ianus, a plantation requires three or four times more ground than would otherwise be necessary. I passed through se- veral deep woods, and ascended some steep hills, but I saw nothing which deserved the name of mountain; I crossed some flat sandy plains, upon which the acaju, mangaba, and. several H h w 104, LANDS. species of palm or cabbage trees grow ; these are merely fit to turn cattle upon in winter, and will only be brought into cultivation when lands begin to be scarce in Brazil. Varseas or low marshy lands, adapted to the sugar-cane, I also frequently saw. The cercados, or fenced pieces of ground, attached to each sugar-plantation, upon which are fed the cattle kept for the work of it, are the only spots which bear the look of fields ; and even in these, the brushwood is not always sufficiently cleared away, unless the pro- prietor is wealthy and has an abundance of per- sons upon his estate ; otherwise, such is the fer- tility of the soil, that without great care the cercado will in time become a wood. There are several hamlets upon the road, consisting of three and four cottages, and these are built of slight timber, and the leaves of the cabbage- trees; others have mud- walls, and are covered with these leaves ; and now and then, a house built of mud, with a tiled roof, is to be seen, — this bespeaks a man above the common run of people. I crossed several rivulets, which were much reduced by the drought ; but I did not see any great streams. The Paraiba was dry where I passed it, as also was the river near Mamanguape. A rivulet, that runs into the lake at Papari, was the only stream which ap- peared still to possess its usual strength. The road from Goiana to Mamanguape is the great LANDS. KM Sertam track, and is similar to that between Recife and Goiana, excepting that the plains of the part of the country I had just now traversed, are more extensive, and the roads over these are dangerous, as they are only marked by the short and ill-grown grass being worn away upon the path ; but as the cattle extend more upon a plain, and cannot be kept so close, from the greater extent of ground over which they pass, each part receives fewer footsteps, and the grass not unfrequently resists their passing, and vege- tation still continues ; consequently, in an im- perfect light, an experienced guide is necessary, as on these plains no huts are ever to be met with, being, for the most part, destitute of water. These, the Brazilians call taboleiros, distinguish- ing them by this name from campinas; upon the latter, the soil is closer, and they afford good grass. Beyond Mamanguape, the road is some- times a mere path, with breadth sufficient only for two loaded horses to pass, and, in some places, it has not even the necessary width for this purpose. The valley of Papari I have already mentioned, as being much superior to the rest of the country. The trees in Brazil are mostly evergreens, and the drought must be great indeed to make them lose their leaves ; but the green of the leaves of a parched plant, though still a green, is very different from the bright joyful colour of one that is in full health. 106 CITY OF NATAL. This produced the striking difference between that valley and the burnt lands above it, — be- sides, the misfortunes of other parts made its good luck more apparent. I arrived about eleven o'clock in the morn- ing at the city of Natal, situated upon the banks of the Rio Grande, or Potengi. A foreigner, who might chance to land first at this place, on his arrival upon the coast of Brazil, would form a very poor opinion of the state of the popula- tion of the country ; for, if places like this are called cities, what must the towns and villages be ; but such a judgment would not prove cor- rect, for many villages, even of Brazil, surpass this city ; the rank must have been given to it, not from what it was or is, but from the expec- tation of what it might be at some future period. The settlement upon rising ground, rather re- moved from the river, is properly the city, as the parish-church is there ; it consists of a square, with houses on each side, having only the ground- floor ; the churches, of which there are three, the palace, town-hall, and prison. Three streets lead from it, which have also a few houses on each side. No part of the city is paved, although the sand is deep ; on this account, in- deed, a few of the inhabitants have raised a foot- path of bricks before their own houses. The place may contain from six to seven hundred persons. GOVERNOR OF RIO ORANDE. 107 I rode immediately to the palace, as I had letters of introduction to the Governor, from several of his friends at Pernambuco. He re- ceived me in the most cordial manner. He asked me for my passport, which I produced ; it was scarcely opened, and he immediately re- turned it, saying, that he only did this, that all necessary form might be complied with. He *aid, that I should stay with him, and he would provide a house for my people. At one o'clock we dined, and one of his aides-de-camp was with us. In the afternoon, we walked down to the lower town. It is situated upon the banks of the river ; the houses stand along the southern bank, and there is only the usual width of a street between them and the river. This place may contain from two to three hundred in- habitants, and here live the men of trade of Rio Grande. The bar of the Portengi is very narrow, but is sufficiently deep to admit vessels of 150 tons. The northern bank projects considerably, and for this reason, it is necessary that a ship should make for it from the southward. The entrance to the reef of rocks, which lies at some distance from the shore, also requires to be known, so that altogether the port is a difficult one. The river is very safe, when once within the bar ; the water is deep, and quite still, and two vessels might swing in its breadth ; but it soon becomes shallow, and in the course of a few miles is w 108 GOVERNOR OF RIO GRANDE. greatly diminished. I should imagine that six or seven vessels might swing altogether in the harbour. The bars of rivers that are formed, as in this case, of sand, are, however, not to be trusted to, without good pilots, as they soon change their depth, and even their situation. When the tide enters, the northern bank is overfk>wed about one mile from the mouth ot the harbour, and spreads over a considerable extent of ground, which, even during the ebb, is always wet and muddy, but never becomes sufficiently deep to prevent passing. The Governor was raising a road over this piece of land, and the work was then nearly half finished. The new road would be about one mile in length. The captaincy of Rio Grande is subject to the Governor of Pernambuco, and those of Paraiba and Seara were formerly in the same situation, but have of late years been formed into independent provincial go- vernments. The Governor, Francisco de Paula Cavalcante de Albuquerque, is a native of Pernambuco, and a younger brother of the chief of the Cavalcante branch of the Albuquerques. His father, a Brazilian also, was first an ensign in the Recife regiment of the line ; he afterwards established himself upon a sugar-plantation, and made a fortune. The old man died, and left to each of his sons considerable property j two remained GOVERNOR OF RIO GRANDE. 109 upon their estates, and still live upon them ; this third son entered the Olinda regiment, and was much beloved by the men. The re- giment had then only one company, of which he became the commander, and large sums of money taken from his own purse were ex- pended by him for their good equipment. He went to Lisbon on some business relating to his company, and whilst he was there a de- nuncia, a private accusation, was given by some enemy to the family — that the brothers were forming a conspiracy against the government. He was obliged to leave Lisbon, afraid of being put under an arrest, and fled to England, where his reception was such, that he has ever wished for opportunities of showing kindness to persons of that nation. His brothers suf- fered much in person and in property, but mat- ters were at last cleared up, as the accusation was proved to be false. Francisco was imme- diately promoted to a majority, and soon after- wards sent to govern Rio Grande. He is a man of talent, and of proper feelings in regard of his duties, — enthusiastic in wishing to better the condition of the people over whom he was placed. I am grieved to say, that he has been removed to the insignificant government of St. Michael's, one of the Azores or Western Islands. 110 GOTERNOR OF RIO GRANDE. When he was appointed to Rio Grande, there was scarcely a well-dressed person in it, but he iiad succeeded in persuading one family to send for English manufactured goods to Recife : when once these were introduced they made their way ; one would not be outdone by an- other, and, in the course of two years, they had become general. We visited the church in the evening; all the ladies were handsomely dressed in silks of various colours, and black veils thrown over the head and face. A twelvemonth pre- vious to this period, these same persons would have gone to church in petticoats of Lisbon printed cottons, and square pieces of thick cloth over their heads, without stockings, and their shoes down at the heels. The military establishment consists of one hundred and fourteen men — one company, which were in much better order than those of Pernambuco, or Paraiba, The captaincy of Rio Grande enjoyed perfect quietude from rob- beries through his exertions. The Governor promoted the building of a large house, which was going on very fast, and for which he had subscribed largely ; the rent of it was to be ap- propriated to the support of the widows of the soldiers of the captaincy. This work has, I am afraid, been laid aside since his removal. The situation of the prisoners was very miserable j he wished to better it, and requested that the GOVERNOR OF RTO GRANDE. Ill principal persons of the place would take it in turn weekly to carry a bag round to all the in- habitants, that each might give some trifle to assist in their support : for some time this went on well, but after a few weeks it was neglected. He, therefore, took the bag himself, and, ac- companied by one of his aides-de-camp, called at every house. He said that this was the most comfortable week the prisoners had ever passed since their confinement, as more was given by each person than was usual, and the excellent arrangement was again taken up with ardour, by the same persons who had neglect- ed it. A British vessel was wrecked near Natal, and I have always understood that the proprietors were perfectly satisfied that every exertion possible had been made use of to save the property. The drought of this year had caused a scarcity of the flour ofthemandioc — the bread of Brazil, and the price was so high at Recife, Goiana, &c. that those persons of Rio Grande who possessed it, began to ship it oft" for other places; this the Governor prohibited ; he ordered it to be sold in the market-place, at a price equal to the gain the owners would have had by sending it away, and if all was not bought, he took it himself, agaui giving it out when necessary at the ->ame 112 GOVERNOR OF RIO GRANDE. price. These anecdotes of him I had partly from himself, but principally from persons of the place, to whom 1 was introduced. When he left the city, on his appointment to St. Michael's, the people followed him to some distance, praying for his prosperity. ( .115 ) CHAP. VI. (CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY FROM NATAL TO A9U. r T^HE governor did all in his power to dis- suade me from proceeding further, the drought being so great as to render it not quite prudent ; but as I had come so far, I was re- solved, at any rate, to make the attempt. If I had been certain of being able to undertake the journey at a future period, it would have been better to have returned, and to have waited until a more favourable season ; but I am re- joiced that I went at that time, as, otherwise, I should most probably have been under the neces- sity of foregoing my plan altogether. Some of the disagreeable circumstances which I met with, certainly proceeded from the rigour of the season. I received from the governor a letter of in- troduction to Aracati. He also insisted upon my leaving my own horse, that he might be in good condition when I returned. I was to sleep at a place from which Rio Grande is sup- plied with farinha during the drought ; but, in vol. l 1 114 JOURNEY FROM NATAL TO A^U. usual years, it is too wet to be cultivated, un- less it was drained, and of this operation scarcely any notions are entertained. At Natal, I pur- chased another horse. I crossed the river in a canoe, and the horses and men uvon jajigadas ; w r e were landed upon the new raised road, and immediately beyond it overtook some persons w r ho were going to the Lagoa Seca, or dry lake above-mentioned, where I was to purchase maize and farinha, for crossing the tract of country through which runs the river Seara- meirim. We left the usual road, and turned down a narrow path, which leads to this lake ; it was overhung with trees. I struck my head against a branch of one of these, and found that I had disturbed a large family which had taken up its residence upon it; my shoulders were quickly covered with small red ants, and I did not get rid of them without feeling some of their bites. We arrived at the dry lake about six o'clock in the evening, and put up at one of the cottages. In the course of the following morning, I made known my principal errand, and that 1 likewise wished to purchase another horse. The people who were residing here, had re- moved from high lands which had on this season proved barren ; they had erected small huts, some of which had not been finished, and the family, therefore, lived in public ; these huts had only a roof to shelter their inhabitants, who JOURNEY FROM NATAL TO ACU. 1L expected that the first heavy rain would drive them back to their usual habitations, as these lands, after violent rains, are laid under water. Each man possessed his small field of mandioc and maize. I left John's horse here in charge of one of these men, as it began to give way, and I proceeded with four loaded horses ; two as be- fore, and one oi'farinha, and another of maize. I had provided myself at Rio Grande with leathern bags, for carrying water, and several other necessary things which I had not been instructed to bring, but which experience had taught me the necessity of possessing. We remained at this place during one entire day, and the next morning set off, intending to sleep at a hamlet, called Pai Paulo. We rested at mid-day near to a well, and in the afternoon proceeded. Wells are generally formed in these parts by digging a hole in the ground, to the depth of two or three feet, until the water appears ; if a person in the neighbourhood of one of them, who takes water from it, should be nice about these matters, a fence is made round it, but if not, as is oftenei the case, the well remains open, and the cattle come down to drink at it. These pits or wells are called ca- gimbas. The grass was much burnt up, but still there was plenty of it. In the afternoon we passed over some stony ground, — it was the first I had met with, and it was very painful to j 2 116 JOURNEY FROM NATAL TO AC (J. the horses which had come from the sandy soil of Pernambuco ; but we soon entered upon a long, though narrow plain, bounded by brush- wood, over which the road was clear, and the grass burnt up entirely on each side. We over- took a white man on foot, with twelve loaded horses, and a very small poney which carried a saddle ; the loads were all alike, each horse carrying two skins or bags of some kind of pro- visions. I was much surprised at the circum- stance of this man having the management of so many horses, because generally the number of men is nearly equal to that of the beasts. I observed that his horses began to spread upon the plain, and seemedinclinedtotake to thebrush- wood ; I called to my guide to ride to the right, whilst I did the same to the left, and go in quickly between them and the wood, to pre- vent the animals from separating. The man thanked me, which brought on further conver- sation ; he asked the guide where we intended to sleep, and was answered, " At Pai Paulo." The wells at Pai Paulo, he told us, were all dried up, and the inhabitants had deserted their houses. What was to be done : he said, that he intended to remain upon a plain two leagues distant from where we then were, that no water was to be had there, but that for our party and himself, his slave would bring a sufficient quan- tity, who had remained behind to fill a skin at a BRAZILIAN MAJOR. 117 well which we had passed. There was no alter- native j to remain here was impossible, for there was no grass. Therefore I ordered Julio and his companion to let our horses and those of our new friend remain together, and to look to them equally. The slave soon joined us with the water, gave the skin to my guide, and went on to assist Julio, whilst I advanced very slowly, that I might have some more conversation with the owner of the comboio, or convoy, which we had thus joined. He was the son of a man of property, who resided upon the banks of the Acu, and possessed several cattle estates in those parts ; the old man was a colonel of militia, and he with whom I conversed, was the major of the same regiment. The drought had been so severe with them, that they feared a famine, and he had been sent down to the coast to purchase farinha for the family, which the skins contained, with the exception of one load consisting of maize for his horses. After he had purchased hisfarinha, he heard of the prohibition of the governor respecting it, and understood that a guard of soldiers was to be sent down to the lake to take it from him ; he had, therefore, stolen a march, and that nothing might be sus- pected, he had left all his people, excepting this one slave, and had even left his clothes. His saddle-horse carried a heavy load, and he set off a day before he had intended ; the animal 1 3 118 BRAZILIAN MAJOR. upon which he had placed his saddle was a colt, and too young to bear any further weight. Thus was this major, in true Brazilian campaigning style, in his shirt and drawers, his alpargatas or san- dals upon his feet, his musquet upon his shoul- der, his sword by his side, hanging from a belt over one shoulder, and his long knife in his girdle. He was a stout, handsome man, about forty years of age, and where his skin was not exposed, it was as white as that of a European, but his face, neck, and legs, were of a dark brown colour. This man, who at other times enjoyed all the comforts that his country affords, who was respected for his rank and wealth, was obliged to make this journey absolutely to save the lives of his family. True it is, that he is not to be considered as we should persons of his situation in Europe ; like most of these people, he had been from his infancy daily accustomed to what men in a more civilised state would account very great hardships. The alpargatas are pieces of leather, of a size rather larger than the soles of the feet of the person for whom they are intended. Two loops are fastened in front of each, through which two of the toes are placed ; there is a ring of leather round each ankle, through which are drawn and tied two thongs, which proceed from each side of the hinder part. These are the shoes of the Brazilians, who live removed from PAI PAULO. 119 great and improving towns. Julio was now pro- vided with a pair of them, else I hardly know how he could have proceeded. We halted at the place appointed, upon an immense plain ; the grass was all gone, and even the hardy trees, the acaju and mangaba, seemed to feel the want of water, for their leaves had begun to fall. The two parties took up their stations under separate clumps of trees ; but upon these plains, the trees scarcely ever grow sufficiently near to each other, to enable the traveller to hang his hammock between two of them. The poor horses were taken to a dell at some distance, to try to pick up what they could find, that had escaped the drought and the traveller. Our allowance of water was not large, and therefore we were afraid of eating much salt meat; we did not pass the night comfortably, for the wind rose, and scattered' our fires, nor did we sleep much, and at four o'clock the horses were fetched to give to each of them a feed of maize. One of them refused to eat his portion. The following morning we advanced to Pai Paulo, three leagues further, still crossing the same plain, at the extremity of which we first approached the Seara-Meiiim, and on the oppo- site side from that on which we were, stands the village of Pai Paulo, upon rising ground. This was, without exception, the most desolate i 4 120 PAI PAULO. place I ever beheld ; the roofs of some of the cottages were falling in, the walls of others had fallen, but the roofs remained. The course of the river was only marked by the depth of its bed, for the soil around was a loose sand, desti- tute of any covering, and nothing differing from that in the channel of the river. The trees had mostly lost their leaves. I had now entered upon the Sertam, and surely it deserves the name. We passed Pai Paulo, and about noon reached an open well of brackish water, dug in the bed of the river ; our Pernambuco horses at first refused to drink, but the dirt was cleared away, as much as possible, for them, and the water left to settle ; however, even then, they did little more than taste it. Here we were to rest, and to give our horses some maize, for there was no grass. The same horse again refused his feed ; the guide said that he supposed he was not accustomed to it, and therefore must be taught to like it, otherwise he could not pos- sibly get over this barren track of country. The first operation was to soak the maize in water, until it softened, — then the guide forced some of it down the animal's throat, closing forcibly its mouth. Whether this had the effect, or hunger, I know not ; but at night he per- formed his part pretty well, taking rather more time than the others to finish his feed. I drank a small portion of the water, mixing it with SEARA-MEIRIM. 121 lemon juice and sugar, which I had with me. We carried some of this water on with us, for at night we should find none. The country presented the same appearance ; we crossed the Seara-Meirim several times, which in some parts had large rocks in the centre of the bed. At night I was not much inclined to eat, but I made up by smoking. We found a sheltered place behind part of the bank of the river, and slung our hammocks upon sloping ground, as the wind rises about eleven or twelve o'clock in these parts, and renders shelter very requisite ; it sometimes blows hard : it is a dry wind, but healthy. The following day, we proceeded again in the same manner. I had by this time fully en- tered into the custom of smoking early, and as we could never get any thing cooked until twelve o'clock, I found that this prevented any unpleasant sense of hunger. My people could not have any thing to eat early, as it would have caused delay, therefore it would not have been proper for me to show a bad example. I had become very intimate with my friend the major — he learnt from me that we had horses, and cows, and dogs in England, and he liked me the better for this ; at first, he wondered how it happened that I could ride ; he thought I must be an apt scholar to have learnt since I had gone over to Brazil. He was also much 122 PEREIRO AND YCO. surprised to hear that we had churches in Eng- land, which he had never understood before. He said he should not believe henceforwards that the English were Pagoens, heathens. I told him that one chief point upon which our religion differed from his, was in ours not en- joining us to confess ; he thought confession a great annoyance, but he could not doubt its propriety. We reached another dirty pool or well of water in the river, which we had again crossed several times. Our resting-place at mid-day afforded no shelter, excepting what could be obtained from one small shrub, which was in full leaf. The leaves or branches of it reached to the ground. I lay down upon the sand, and pushed my head in among them, covering the rest of my body with a hide ; this was a hot birth, but better than to be completely exposed to the sun. I was astonished at the appearance of this shrub. There are two kinds of trees in certain parts of the Sertam, which are called Pereiro and Yco ; both seem to flourish most when the seasons are the driest, and both are particularly dangerous to horses ; that is, as they do no mischief to the wild cattle or wild horses, they may be supposed not to possess any pernicious qualities if the animals which eat their leaves are not overheated and fatigued ; the latter of these plants kills the travellers' PEREIR0 AND YCO. 12S beasts, and the former has the effect of appear- ing to produce intoxication, and sometimes also proves fatal. The major said, that this part of the country abounded in these trees, and conse- quently our horses were tied to those around us, and to each was given a feed of maize. The plant, of which I have spoken above, was very beautiful, the green of its leaves was bright and healthy, and I afterwards saw many more of them upon this travesia or crossing. I particu- larly observed them on this track of country, as other plants had lost all appearance of life. We were less unpleasantly situated at night, as the water, though brackish, was comparatively clear. The following day we had still the same country and river to cross. The consciousness of having advanced upon our journey alone caused the knowledge of a change of situation, so exactly similar was the face of the country. At mid-day we had again no shelter from the sun. The water was little different from that of the preceding day. I laid down under the shady side of a rock, which afforded suf- ficient shelter until the sun began to decline, and throw its rays into the quarter under which I had taken up my station. We had often seen cattle about the pools or wells — on this occa- sion, one miserable cow came down to drink ; the major happened to be near the pool at the V24? THE GUIDE. time, lie looked at the mark she bore, and knew it to he that of* the cattle upon his own estates. " How can this animal," he exclaimed, " have strayed so far from its own home ?" The want of water had made it stray at least one hundred leagues. This day we overtook a party of Sertanejos, as the inhabitants of the Sertam are called, likewise going our way. They were at the mid-day resting-place, and one of their horses was, at the time of our com- ing up, tottering from having eaten of the Yco ; they were trying to give it maize, in the hope of recovering it, as this is said to have the effect, if it is taken soon after ; but at the time we left them, the animal, when he fell, was with difficulty raised, and the major said that he thought him too far gone. I never heard whe- ther these persons returned, or still advanced after this misfortune. I observed in the after- noon several heaps of rocks in the bed of the river, which must form beautiful falls of water when the stream is rapid. Towards evening my guide began to try me. I found that there had been some conversation between him and the two Indians respecting the journey, and now he sounded me about re- turning. I told him I had perfectly determined to go on, and that I would most certainly shoot the man who attempted to go back, and that even if he then escaped me, I would follow him THE GUIDE. 125 until 1 overtook him. He had not said that he would return, but had hinted at the danger of the undertaking at this season, and that the two lads were afraid of proceeding, but I knew him to be the mover. At night he could not have found his way back, as the only mark of a road that was to be perceived, proceeded from the sand being more worn away, and the banks of the river being broken down at the proper crossings. In fact, the marks were such, that even in the day-time, a man accustomed to this description of road could alone find it out — therefore I was certain that desertion could only take place in the day-time, which was almost impos- sible, as I always rode in the rear of the whole party. The guide had no fire-arms of his own ; besides he never would have made any attempt to murder me, as he knew how little I slept, and that my pistols were always with me in my hammock, besides any thing of this sort could only have been done in concert with Julio, who, in the sequel, proved worthy of the greatest confidence. I found more necessity to be on my guard in returning, when John was no longer with me; however, although this man had sufficient courage, he had no watchfulness. The summary manner in which I threatened to treat the guide, can only be justified by the necessity of the case, for had he returned, the two Indians would most probably likewise have 126 WANT OF WATER. deserted me. If a man suffers himself to be trifled with, he cannot possibly succeed under circumstances such as these ; however, 1 made the threat under the conviction of that being sufficient. We carried water from the resting-place at mid-day, and, as usual, fixed our quarters at night upon the banks of the river. The next day we advanced again exactly in the same manner, but at noon, to our dismay, there was no water ; the pool had dried up, but we rested the horses for a short time, not- withstanding this dreadful disappointment. My thirst was great, for I had not drank the night before. We had still some lemons left, which were distributed, and these afforded much relief. In the afternoon the major told me to follow his example, and put a pebble into my mouth, which was the usual resource of the Sertanejos on these occasions. I did so, and certainly found that it produced considerable moisture. This was a dismal day, and we knew not whether we should be able to reach a well be- fore some of our horses failed. One of those belonging to the major, already ran loose among the others, as he was weak, and his load had been changed to the horse which had carried the maize, the remainder of this being distri- buted in small portions, that it might be carried by the rest. My horses bore it very well, z» INHABITED COTTAGE. 127 those which had been loaded with provisions were, of course, in part relieved, and the largest load, that of my trunk and case of bottles, was carried by each of them in turn, that the hard work might be equally divided. This day we passed some deserted cottages. Our night was verv miserable, for some of the horses refused to finish their feeds of maize ; the danger of their failing prevented our thinking so much of our own inconvenience — my spirits were kept up by the necessity I felt of keeping up those of others. John was not quite well, and this made me uneasy, as it was as much as we could do to carry ourselves ; indeed, had any of the party fallen sick, I know not how we should have proceeded. The next morning, about nine o'clock, we reached a well to our great joy, but, fortunately for us, the water was so bad, that we could not drink much ; it was as usual dirty and brackish, but of the first draught I shall never forget the delight j — when I tried a second, I could not take it, the taste was so very nauseous. On looking round, we saw some goats, Julio went towards them, and then discovered some fowls, proceeded a little farther and found an inhabited cottage. He came and gave us the joyful in- telligence ; we determined to remain here to rest, if the people could give us any hopes of food for our horses. I found an elderly woman m H 128 INHABITED COTTAGE. and her two daughters in the hut; the father was not at home. The old woman seemed quite astonished to hear that we had crossed the Seira-Meirim ; she said, she did not know how soon she and her family might be obliged to leave their cottage, as many others had done. She directed the major and my people to a dell at some distance, where dry grass and leaves might perhaps still be picked up ; she said, that it was the last place which could have any, for travellers did not in general know of it, and she and her husband made a point of not discover- ing it. But I paved the way, by making her a present of some farinha, throwing maize to the fowls, and by pouring in an immense num- ber of minhas Senhoras. I had purchased a kid and a fowl, and laid down the money imme- diately. Persons circumstanced as these were, are sometimes robbed in a most unpardonable manner by travellers, who take advantage of their houses, eat their poultry, and leave them without paying ; but considering the entire non- existence of law in these regions, I am onlv surprised that greater enormities are not com- mitted ; however, every man feels it to be his own case, if he has a house and family ; he is aware that on going from home, those he may leave are in the same helpless state. These persons and their property were at the mercy of any travellers ; if they had been murdered, and SEARA-MEIRIM. 129 the cottage from being deserted began to fall, it would have been supposed that its inhabitants, like many others, had decamped, and no enquiry would be made about the direction they had taken ; such is the rambling disposition of the people in general, and the state of this part of the country, at the period of which I speak. They have nothing to make them remain upon one spot, neither comfort nor security. In the afternoon we advanced as usual, and passed some deserted cottages, but towards the close of the day arrived at some that were in- habited, and at dusk put up near to two or three that stood together, after having crossed the Seara-Meirim for the last and forty-second time. This river takes its sources from the mountains to the northward, in the same direc- tion as those of the river A9U, of which I shall have occasion to speak. The Seara-Meirim falls •into the Potengi, and perhaps some branches of it bend their course as far as the Paraiba. The face of the country presents one continued flat, from Pai Paulo to the place at which we left the river ; the soil is a loose sand, which is sometimes, though rarely, intermixed with black earth. The trees are thinly scattered, and, at the time that I travelled, were without leaves. The river winds like the coils of a serpent; to have followed them would have been endless ; it sometimes fills after heavy rain, vol. 1. K H 130 SEARA-MEIRIM, in the course of a very short time, the water coming dowri in a torrent, delayed only by the inequality of the depth of the channel, and the walls with which the rocks in some parts oppose its progress. The sand in the bed of the river is little different from that of which the banks are composed, being however on the whole thicker, and approaching nearer to gravel. The water which oozes from it, on digging into the sand, is in all parts brackish, and in some places is too salt for any use to be made of it. This is not, however, peculiar to the Seara-Meirim, for I found that all the beds of the rivers which become dry in the summer contained more or less salt; at best, the water taken from them was never quite sweet. The place at which we had arrived is reckoned to be distant forty leagues from Natal ; the league of the Sertam is never less than four miles, and is often much more ; there are legoas grandes, legoas pequenas, and legoas de nada> or nothing leagues, which I have found quite long enough, notwithstanding their encouraging name. Pai Paulo may be about eight or ten leagues from Natal, which makes the travesia or barren-crossing, thirty or thirty-two leagues. We advanced at about three miles within the hour or rather more, and travelled from half- past five to ten in the morning, and in the after- noon from two, or half-past two to six o'clock. 13 LEAVE THE MAJOR. 131 We had now reached again the habitations of man ; there was still the same burnt-up ap- pearance, but the wells were taken care of, the water was better, and grass, although it was dry, was still to be had. I intended to accom- pany the major, part of the way to his home, or the whole, but it was necessary that 1 should be guided by circumstances, — by the accounts we heard of the state of the country ; we advanced in our usual manner, resting more at mid-day, traversing a dead flat, and passing two or three fazendas, or cattle estates, each day, of which the live stock was looking very miserable, and the people half starved. After being with the major four days, since we had left the Seara-Meirim, I saw that it would not be prudent to proceed farther; the accounts from the interior were bad, and we arrived at one estate, of which the cattle were all dying, and the people intending, if there was no rain very soon, to leave their houses. I now judged myself to be distant from the coast not less than two hundred miles. We had advanced northward and westward, and were therefore not far to the southward of Acu, but were to the westward of it. I now resolved to make for it, for my horses might fail, and all the country was in so bad a state, that we might not have found others in a proper condition to go on with us; in fact, as I was not acting k 2 ■■■ HMfl in 132 TRAVELLING PRIESTS. from orders, but merely for my own amusement, and as the guide was afraid of proceeding, 1 did not think I was authorised in persevering ; it^ I had had orders for the purpose, the case would have been altered, and I must have run all hazards. Here, also, desertion was easier in the night, as the country was comparatively inhabited towards A9U — the difficulty was in advancing, and not in retreating. Each cattle estate has a tolerably decent house, in which the owner or herdsman resides, and usually a few smaller habitations are scat- tered about upon the plain around it. The pens stand near to the principal house, and enable the travellers to distinguish immediately, although at some distance, the site of ajazenda. I heard of a strange custom existing in these parts of the country that are so thinly inhabited, which arises from this state of things. Certain priests obtain a licence from the bishop (of Per- nambuco), and travel through these regions with a small altar constructed for the purpose ; of a size to be placed upon one side of a pack-saddle, and they have with them all their apparatus for saying mass. Thus with a horse conveying the necessary paraphernalia, and a boy to drive it, who likewise assists in saying mass, and another horse on which the priest himself rides, and car- ries his own small portmanteau, these men make in the course of the year between 1.501. and 200L TRAVELLING PRIESTS. 133 — a large income in Brazil, but hardly earned, if the inconveniences and privations which they must undergo to obtain it are- taken into consi- deration. They stop and erect the altar wherever a sufficient number of persons who are willing to pay for the mass is collected. This will some- times be said for three or four shillings, but at other times, if a rich man takes a fancy to a priest, or has a fit of extreme devotion upon him, he will give eight or ten mil reis, two or three pounds, and it does happen, that one hundred mil reis are received for saying a mass, but this is very rare ; — at times an ox or an horse, or two or three, are given. These men have their use in the world : if this custom did not exist, all form of worship would be completely out of the reach of the inhabitants of many districts, or at any rate they would not be able to attend more than once or twice in the course of the year, for it must be remembered that there is no church within twenty or thirty leagues of some parts ; besides, where there is no law, nor real, rational religion, any thing is better than nothing. They christen and marry, and thus preserve these ne- cessary forms of religion, and prevent a total for- getfulness of the established rules of civilised so- ciety; a sufficient link is kept up to make any of these people, if they removed into more popu- lous districts, conform to received ideas, k 3 — 134 THE SERTANEJO. I left the major * to pursue his journey home- wards, whilst I retreated, or rather advanced, in a contrary direction, but a retreat it was from this inhospitable region. We found no change during that day, and if we had not met with a good-natured herdsman, should have fared very badly for want of water, unless we had seen some other person equally well disposed. I asked him the way to the nearest estate, which he told me, and then I made enquiries about water, to which he answered, that unless I was acquainted with the place, I should not find the well, and this part of our conversation ended by his turning * Between two and three years after this journey, I heard again of my friend the major. I became acquainted with a man who resided at the foot of the Serra do Teixeira, which is beyond the estates of the major's father. The old colonel was killed by a bull before his own door. The animal had been driven into a small inclosure, and became mad from feeling himself confined. It was necessary to bring him to the ground, which is done j§ a peculiar manner, by running a short iron prong into a certain part of the thigh. The herds- men were afraid, and wished to let the beast have time to cool and become less violent; the old man, who was between seventy and eighty years of age, told them, that if they were afraid, he would attack him, and immediately entered the in- closure; but before he could prepare to receive the bull, and was still leaning against the palings, the animal ran at him, and fixed his horns through the old man's body, with sufficient force to run them into the palings, and in such a manner that before he could extricate himself, one of the herdsmen ran a long knife into his head between the horns, and brought hint to the ground; but the old man lost his life. i vm •v //■>„ ' THE SERTANEJO. 131 back to show it to me, regardless of thus in- creasing his journey four or five miles. I asked him when we arrived at the well to stay and dine with me, for although I had no great dainties to offer, still he carried only what provision his boroacas contained. These are small leathern bags, one of which hangs on each side of the saddle. He would not, however, dismount, and immediately turned his horse and went his way. My guide had remained behind, as his horse was rather lame, and now he joined us. We passed over some stony ground, and the well itself was situated among rocks, between two of which the horses passed and descended to it. I may give some description of my friend, who turned back to show me the well, and this may be taken as the usual appearance of a travelling Sertanejo. He rode a small horse with a long tail and mane ; his saddle was rather raised be- fore and behind j his stirrups were of rusty iron, and his bit was of the same ; the reins were two very narrow thongs. His dress consisted of long pantaloons or leggings, of tanned but undressed leather, of a rusty brown colour, which were tied tight round his waist, and under these are worn a pair of cotton drawers or trowsers, as the seat is left unprotected by the leather. He had a tanned goat-skin over his breast, which was tied behind by four strings, and a jacket also made of leather, which is generally thrown over one k 4 136 THE SERTANEJO. shoulder ; his hat was of the same, with a very shallow crown, and small brim ; he had slip-shod slippers of the same colour, and iron spurs upon his naked heels, — the straps which go under the feet prevent the risk of losing the slippers. A long whip of twisted thongs hung from his right wrist ; he had a sword by his side, hanging from a belt over one shoulder ; his knife was in his girdle, and his short dirty pipe in his mouth. Fastened to his saddle behind, was a piece of red baize, rolled up in the form of a great coat, and this usually contains a hammock and a change of linen, — a shirt, and drawers, and perhaps a pair of nankeen pantaloons ; his boroacas hung also on each side of the back of his saddle, and these generally contain farinha and dried meat on one side, and on the other a flint and steel, (dried leaves serve as tinder) tobacco, and a spare pipe. To this equipment is sometimes added, a large pistol, thrust partly under the left thigh, and thus secured. The usual pace of the Sertanejo's horse is a walk, approaching to a short trot ; so that the horses of these people often have ac- quired the habit of dragging their hind legs, and throwing up the dust. The usual colour of the Sertanejos is a dark brown ; for even those who are born white, soon become as completely tanned as the dress which they wear, from expo- sure to the sun. The annexed print will give some idea of the Sertanejo, as he is daily seen - CUSTOM OF SMOKING. 137 in Recife. The colour of the leather, as it is re- presented in the print, is brighter than that of the dresses which are usually to be met with, which is owing to the drawing having been made from a dress that had not been much used. At one of the estates I heard an anecdote, which is illustrative of the neglect or the impossibility, on all occasions, of conforming to religious duties. A priest, on passing, was requested by the wife of the owner of the place to stay r for the purpose of baptizing her son ; he consented to this, but after waiting some time, said, that he wished to proceed upon his journey, and therefore desired that the child might be brought to him ; the woman answered, " Pray, wait a short time longer, as the boy has taken the horses to water, and will soon return." The priest was surprised, but was still more astonish- ed, when he was required to christen a fellow of thirteen or fourteen years of age. The next day we still proceeded over the same sort of ground, in parts stony, and where stony, it was rather hilly ; but not sufficiently so to form a decided ridge of hills. John was, at night, taken suddenly ill ; he had drank too much water, and would not mix any spirit with it, neither would he smoke. I considered smoking as almost absolutely necessary for the preservation of health on these occasions ; it is generally practised among the people of the 138 ST. LUZIA. country, and indeed many of the women are as fond of it as their husbands. Towards the morning, the man recovered. The following day we reached, at ten o'clock, the estate of St. Luzia ; it is situated upon a wide plain, similar to those upon which we had been travelling for many days. This is a cam- pina, and not a taboleiro. There were no trees upon it, excepting a few near to the well. The sight of this place raised our spirits, for there was no want of water, nor of grass, though it was completely dry. The lots, lotes, of mares came down to drink, all in tine condition, fol- lowed and protected by the master horse of each lot ; the cattle, the sheep, and every other living thing, seemed to enjoy and to be conscious of the abundance of which they were reaping the advantage. We unloaded near to the well under the trees. The house of the chief herds- man stood before us, distant about one hundred yards, upon rather higher ground ; it was a low white-washed cottage, with the stables, pens, &c. on each side. About twelve o'clock^ I saw some men employed in milking the goats ; I sent Julio with a half-gourd for some milk, desiring him to offer payment ; the guide cau- tioned me not, but still I ordered Julio to pre- sent the money. The milk came, but the money was not taken, and soon afterwards, three of the men came down towards us ; I thanked ST. LUZIA. 139 them for the milk ; and they addressed me say- ing, that they wished to know if I had intended to insult them, by offering payment, as such things were not customary in their country : — the guide had told me I should affront them, and therefore I had brought this upon myself; but I put them into good humour by answering that they would pardon my mistake, when I told them, that I belonged to a country, in which we were obliged to purchase the sand with which we scoured our houses. They then said, that the boy, on going for the milk, had mentioned that there was an Englishman in company, whom they wished much to see, as it was a bicho, an animal, they had never seen. I said that he was gone with the horses, and would soon return. I meant John, — however the guide soon told them that I was an English- man. Their countenances showed much disap- pointment, when they were persuaded that this was true ; they had expected to see some strange beast. John soon came, and he certainly was a curiosity, for he did not speak Portugueze ; and when any thing went wrong, he swore away in English, at which they were all astonishment : they said, " He speaks the negro language. *" They sat upon the ground near to my hammock, and asked me of the news from Pernambuco, for they cared about nothing more distant. I Falla a lingua de negro." 140 PROCEED ACROSS A PLAIN. was acquainted at Recife with the owner of the place, which I made them confident was the case, by describing his house and garden, and they asked me after him, &c. The conversation concluded by an offer of horses to proceed, and, on their return to the house, a present of dried meat was sent. Thus I was in the end a gainer, by offering to pay for the milk ; but I was more careful ever after. From St. Luzia, we proceeded across the plain, expecting to reach a lake, of which the guide had some recollection ; but when the night had already closed in, we were still upon the same endless plain, over which the track was only marked by thesand upon it being more wornaway, consequently, it might easily be lost at night. The lake at which we had entertained hopes of arriving, never becomes entirely dry in the sum- mer ; but there was only one place at which it could be crossed, therefore it would be dangerous to reach its borders in the dark. The plain presented no tempting lodging ; there were several rocks upon it of different sizes^ but no trees, and the wind blew hard. The guide dis- mounted, to feel if there was any of the long dry grass where we were ; on not finding any, he walked to the left of the road, but was not successful ; he then tried to the right, and found some. We only discovered his situation by the sound of his voice ; he called, and we answered, THE LAKE. 141 several times, until at last we joined him; he had also discovered a large rock, under the lee of which we unloaded, and then lighted our fire, and fettered the horses to feed. We soon found, that to cook any victuals was impossible, for the w r ind scattered our fire, which was only formed of the branches of the small shrubs and briars that grow upon these plains. Water we had by accident, as the guide had brought a .small skin of it, in case he should be thirsty during the afternoon, for we had made ourselves quite certain of reaching the lake by night. I slept upon two of our packages, under the lee of the rock, and the whole party did the same, sharing, as equally as possible, our scanty means of accommodation. This afternoon I had seen many rocks of remarkable forms ; one particu- larly struck me as extraordinary : it was placed upon another, of much smaller dimensions, and the resting-point was so small, as to render its removal apparently easy ; but, on trial, it had not the slightest motion. The discomfort of this night was great, caused chiefly by the vio- lence of the wind ; we had, at last, no fire, — all was dark around us, and we could scarcely make ourselves heard. The horses seemed to feel, as much as we did, the unsheltered situa- tion ; they were near to us during the whole of the night. On continuing our journey the following 142 THE LAKE. morning, we discovered that we had halted within half a league of the lake. The water was all gone ; but the ground was boggy, and not to be crossed, excepting at the place over which is the usual path. It extends to the right and left to a considerable distance, but is not broad, Jf the mud was cleared away, it might, perhaps, af- ford an inexhaustible source of water to the neighbourhood ; but Brazil is not in a state for such works ; hands, in these parts, are not yet sufficiently numerous. In the afternoon, we crossed some stony hills, and passed by two fazendas. This day, I observed, at some dis- tance, a high hill, of a circular form, standing quite alone, and unconnected with any other high ground. Its sides appeared to be too steep for horses to ascend ; and I much regret not being so situated as to be enabled to delay, for the purpose of taking a nearer and more exact view of it, &c. The guide was surprised at my curiosity about it, and told me that horses could not go up its sides, that there were snakes upon it, &c. Ail this might be true ; but it was evidently said, to prevent any inten- tion I might have had of delaying to see it more correctly. The plain appeared in many parts as if the sea had at some time covered it ; — the dead flat, the sand in places mixed with parti- cles of a substance which looked like broken shells, and the rocks worn away in such parts. THE PLAINS. 143 as from their situation could not have been acted upon by rain. We slept this night at an estate, where there were several houses forming a hamlet, having passed through a considerable quantity of wooded land. The next morning we again proceeded over some lands that were covered with wood ; and, near twelve o'clock, reached the town of Acu. Oh, the joy of again seeing a church ! of the sight of a regular village, and civilised persons ; if even these can be called civilised, according to European ideas. The country I passed over from Natal, never can, in any state of civilisation, or from any in- crease of population, be rendered a fertile track ; but it might be, without doubt, much improved, if proper wells were sunk, reservoirs made for rain water, and trees planted ; much might be done. The plains I crossed are of three kinds ; those of which the soil is a loose sand, pro- ducing the acaju, the mangaba, and several kinds of palm or cabbage trees ; upon them the grass is short, and of a kind which is not rec- koned nourishing ; in these situations are like- wise produced several creeping plants, similar to those growing upon the common lands, near the sea-shore, in England, and the trees are thinly scattered. The fruit of the acaju or cashew tree, and of the mangaba *, are most delightful, * Vide Appendix. ^^B 144 TABOLEIROS AND CAMPINAS. and are doubly acceptable in crossing the sands upon which they are to be met with. The former has been often described ; the latter is a small round fruit, and is not unlike a crab-apple in appearance, but it is sweet, and is unfit to be eaten until it drops from the tree ; the pulp is fibrous but soft, and three seeds or kernels are contained in it, of which the taste approaches that of almonds. The palm or cabbage * trees also afford fruits, which are eaten when other food fails ; but these are insipid. These plains are the taboleiros, of which there exists also another kind, which are covered with brushwood, of stinted height, from the nature of the soil, but it is close and higher than a man on horseback. The road lies, in many places, through it ; but as it does not afford any shade, and prevents the wind from alleviating the intenseness of the heat ; it is here that the power of the sun is fully felt. This brushwood is, however, not too thick to prevent cattle from breaking their way through it, and feeding among it. The third description of plains arc those of a better kind of soil, which produce good nourishing grass, but upon these no trees grow ; small shrubs and briars alone are to be seen, and often-times not even these. They are, in parts, stony, and have rising ground upon them, which is not sufficiently high to deserve Vide Appendix. TABOLEIROS AND CAMPINAS. 14.5 the name of a ridge of hills ; but is enough to break the ocean-like flatness and immensity which these plains sometimes present to the traveller ; after proceeding for hours, the same distance still seems to remain for him to traverse. These are the campinas. I passed over some spots covered with high trees, which in our own country would be called woods of considerable extent; but in Brazil, they could not be ac- counted of sufficient magnitude to compose a distinguishing feature in the naked regions which I traversed. The impression which a recollection of this portion of land left upon my mind, is of a flat uncovered country. I heard very little of beasts of prey ; they had removed to better districts, I suppose ; nor were we much troubled with snakes. But my people never failed, in taking up our quarters, to look well around, which proves their frequent ap- pearance, else this cautious behaviour would not have become habitual with them. I merely say, that they are not plentiful in this barren part ; for elsewhere, near lakes and large pools of water, in fertile districts, the rattle of the snake, of which this is the distinguishing mark, is often heard. We saw a small kind of rabbit, near rocky ground, which is called moco. The cara- pato or tick, and the chigua had entirely disap- peared, since we left the dry lake, near Natal. The chigua has been so often described, that a VOL. I. L ■ <■'■<•* >?v»/$i- t <(>. ^H ■ 146 TOWN OF ACU. minute account of it in this place is unnecessary ; it is a very small insect, which lodges itself prin- cipally under the nails of the feet. In the coun- try, bordering upon the sea, it is to be found most abundantly in sandy districts ; and yet, although the plains of the Sertam appear to be formed of the same kind of sand, the insect is not to be met with in the whole track of country between Natal and Aracati. We arrived at A9U on the 1st December, having travelled about 840 miles in 19 days. The continual anxiety in which I was kept, pre- vented me from keeping any regular journal of my proceedings. From Acu to Aracati, I have preserved the names of the places through which I passed. The country is more inhabited, and I was nearer to the coast ; I travelled also with more ease ; but, between Natal and A9U, ex- cepting the deserted Pai Paulo, I did not pass any settlement which deserved even the name of village ; single cottages, much separated from each other, and often uninhabited, contained the whole population of this district. It is a miserable, desolate country. The town of Acu is built in a square, and consists of about three hundred inhabitants j it has two churches, and a town-hall and prison, at that time building ; the governor was the promoter of the work. The place stands upon the great river of A$u, where it runs in two TOWN OF A9U. 147 channels for a short distance ; it is situated upon the northern bank of the smaller branch. There is an island of sand between the two branches, and the distance from whence the river is di- vided to where it is again united, is about two or perhaps three miles. We crossed their dry beds, and entered the square, which is • not, paved, and the sand is deep. Many of the in- habitants were at their doors, for all travellers are objects of curiosity, and our appearance in- creased it. I rode upon an English saddle, and this particularly attracted the notice of an eques- trian people. The houses have only the ground floor ; some of them are plastered, and white- washed, but the mud of which others are com- posed, remains in its natural colour, both within and without, and the floors also are of earth ; so that in spite of the greatest care, when water is scarce, their inhabitants cannot keep themselves clean. Though the lower class of Brazilians, of all casts, have many dirty customs, allied to those of salvage life, still they are remarkably clean in their persons $ one of the greatest inconveni- ences of a situation, when a Brazilian complains of the place he happens to reside in, is the want of a river or pool of water in the neighbourhood, for the purpose of bathing. We enquired for the house of a man of colour, a saddler by trade, with whom my guide was acquainted. This person, like many others, had l 2 ■'-% 148 THE VICAR. come to his door to see the travellers ; he soon recognised his friend, and came forwards to speak to him. He procured a house for us during our stay ; it was a small place, upon which neither plaster nor white-wash had been bestowed, with two rooms, one opening to the square, and the other to the river. When we were a little settled, and I had dressed myself, I sallied forth to visit the vicar, who resided in the best, or rather least miserable looking habi- tation in the town ; it was about the size of the cottages of labourers, or small farmers in Eng- land, but not nearly so comfortable, though the floors were bricked. It is true, that this climate does not demand, as much as those of bleaker regions, that necessary of an English dwelling, of English growth, that undefinable something, called comfort. I told him, I had called upon him, as the first person of the neighbourhood, and that I should always be happy in my pro- ceedings to have the prayers and good wishes of his order, and particularly his, as the Governor had spoken so very highly of him. Some further conversation passed between us ; but I did not stay long, for I was much tired. I made arrange- ments for sending my horses towards Piatd, where grass was to be had, and the green stalks of maize, sugar-cane, and other plants ; but the guide recommended that we should not stay here longer than was necessary. He said, that 14 THE JAGUAR. 149 whilst the horses continued on their journey, they would bear up very well ; but if they were suffered to rest, they would become stiff, lose flesh, and be rendered entirely unfit for service, for a considerable time. I did not then quite believe him, but as there was no object in stay- ing, I desired Julio to return with them to A^u the next day at two o'clock, that we and they might have, at any rate, a rest of twenty-four hours. I afterwards learnt, by experience, that the guide was quite right regarding the horses ; that regular work is better than a rest of more than one whole day. Our friend, the saddler, among other stories, mentioned having passed over the same ground which we had traversed from St. Lucia, only a short time before us. He was in company with another man and a boy, and had also a dog with him ; they had put up for the night under shel- ter of one of the rocks, in the vicinity of the lake of which I have spoken. His companion had taken the horses to some little distance to graze ; the boy and the dog remained with him ; he had made a fire, and was in the act of pre- paring some dried meat to be cooked, when the boy called out, " Where is the dog ?" — the man answered, " Here he is, why what is the matter?" the boy said, " What eyes, then, are those?" point- ing, at the same time, to the corner of the rock ; the man looked, and saw the eyes, for nothing l 3 ■ 150 the guidi;, else was to be seen ; he called to the dog, took up his fowling-piece, and fired, whilst the dog started up, and darted towards the spot. A jaguar rushed out, and made off; it had been partly concealed under the rock, which, with the - dazzle of the fire, had prevented its body from being seen ; it had crouched, and was ready for a spring, when every thing was quiet, and unprepared. I learnt, that there are some extensive salt- works at the mouth of the A9U, and that small craft come from different parts of the coast occasionally, to carry away the overplus. I took an additional guide here, as the man I had brought with me from Goiana was not acquaint- ed with the remainder of the road ; but I kept him with me, for although he was not a person I liked, still he was master of his employment ; he managed the horses well, for they had, through his attention and knowledge of this business, all arrived here without sore backs, which I found, from the surprise expressed by all those who saw them, was not a usual piece of good fortune, or good management. He was, however, a great bully, when we quartered our- selves in the houses of poor people, with whom he found he could so act with impunity: he was also continually reporting, that I was a great personage, that he might increase his own importance. Of this I said nothing ; but on DEPARTURE FROM ACU, 151 our return, whilst I was unwell, he gave himself out as the chief of the party, which I once caught him in the act of doing ; I disconcerted him, by threatening to turn him out of my ser- vice ; and when I recovered, he took care to draw in, and be more careful who overheard him. The additional man I took with me, was a dark-coloured mulatto, young and stout ; his father lived at A9U, and this son had a fair cha- racter. He brought with him a beautiful dog, which I afterwards possessed. The next day, Julio came with the horses; and between three and four o'clock in the after- noon, we left Acu. l 4 '■:".<*'-.'' rn g mmS M ( 152 ) CHAP. VII. CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY. — FROM ACU TO ARA- CATI. — FROM ARACATI TO SEARA. — INDIANS. — THE LATE GOVERNOR. — THE FAMILY OF THE FEITOZAS. /"|UR way was through woodlands for about one league, when we came out upon the borders of the lake Piato ; we proceeded along them for another half league, and unloaded near to the caza de palha, or straw cottage, of the commandant of the district. Piato is a lake of three leagues in length, and about one league in breadth. In the summer its sides become sufficiently dry to enable them to be cultivated, but the centre of it is invariably marshy and impassable. The fertility of its sides is very great, affording most plentifully rice, maize, sugar-cane, melons, &c. and I saw some cotton trees planted very near to the edge. The lake is filled from the river in the rainy season, and as the lands around it are much higher than the lake itself, the waters which run down from them wash away all vestiges of cultivation, till these again subside, and the same operations are continued the following season. In such dread- SINGULAR DEXTERITY. 153 fully severe years as that during which I tra- velled, tho people of the district would be starved if this lake did not exist ; it enabled the inhabitants of Acu, at the time I was there, to remain in their houses. The appearance of abundance, the bright green, the well-fed horses and cattle, which w r e saw as we travelled along its banks, enlivened us all ; there was a look of security, a seeming certainty of at least the necessaries of life, let what would happen, which we had not for a long time felt. The parched hills which surround the lake, its beautifully cultivated borders, and the dark and dangerous bogs which compose its centre, and prevent the communication of the inhabitants of either bank, formed a very extraordinary scene. No water was to be seen, but the mud was too deep, and not of sufficient consistence for a man to be enabled to wade across j nor could a passage to the other side be effected by means of a raft, for a very trifling weight would make it sink. We unloaded under a small tree on a rising ground, with the lake on our right ; between us and the house of the commandant, there was a deep ravine, down which, in the rainy season, the waters rush from the hills. This ravine was under cultivation and was enclosed, a narrow path only being left to cross from where we had stationed ourselves to the hut on the opposite hill, which was entirely composed of wood and 154 SINGULAR DEXTERITY. the leaves of the Carnauba and other kinds ot cabbage-trees. This was only a temporary habitation for the summer-months, the usual residence of the owner being at Aeu. He had a large family, who were all very shy; indeed the females I scarcely saw, though they some- times did peep at the Englishmen, not knowing until now, that these were truly and bond fide nothing but men. I was this afternoon surprised at a feat of dexterity of one of the commandant's sons, a boy of about fourteen years of age. I had often heard of the manner of catching the wild cattle in the Sertam ; the person employed for the purpose pursues on horseback, with a long pole, having a goad at one end, the animal which he is de- sirous of bringing to the ground, until he over- takes it — he then pierces its side between the ribs and the hip-bone, which, if it is done at the moment the beast raises its hind feet from the ground, throws it with such violence, as sometimes to make it roll over. Some oxen had often trespassed upon the commandant's maize ; one of the boys could no longer bear this quietly ; he therefore mounted one of his father's horses, of which there were several very fine ones, took one of the long poles and set off without a sad- dle, and in his shirt and drawers, to attack the ani- mals. He drove them out of the maize, reached one of them with the goad at the right moment, TMOSQUITOS. 155 and threw it down, but before he could turn his horse, another had attacked him, running his horns into the fleshy part of one of the horse's thighs. The boy had taken the precaution of putting a bridle on to his horse, otherwise, if he had mounted with a halter only, he would most probably have suffered much more. One of his brothers came to his assistance, and drove the oxen quite away. The facility with which the beast w r as thrown, proved that practice and quickness were more requisite than strength in this operation. Towards the evening a shower of rain came on, being the first we had had since we left Goiana, and indeed this was the only rain which fell during my journey between Goiana and Seara. However there is not usually much wet weather at this season of the year ; the distress occasioned by the want of it, arose from the failure of the accustomed rains in the preceding- winter. We removed to the hut across the ravine, leaving the greatest part of our baggage under the tree, but the shower did not continue long. The hut was too small to admit of our taking up our lodging for the night in it, and in case of rain the tree was too far from the hut to reach it in time to prevent being wet, for which reason I determined to sleep in the ravine close to the fence, at the foot of the hill upon which the hut stood. I made a bed for myself upon 156 MOSQUITOS. two packages, to windward of the fire which we had kindled, but multitudes of mosquitos rose about midnight, which obliged me to remove and lie down upon a hide to leeward ; the fire was mostly composed of the dried ordure of cattle, the smoke from which was so thick and pungent as to prevent entirely any annoyance from these troublesome insects, but the remedy is bad enough, as it is almost impossible to open your eyes or to speak. The misery of being exposed to the myriads of mosquitos whicli hovered around us this night, made us choose the smoke as the more endurable evil. Not- withstanding these inconveniences we had some amusement at the distress of him whose fire was allowed to burn low ; none of us slept much, for attention to the fires obliged every one to be on the alert. Towards morning the smoke was scarcely sufficient to protect us from these tor- menting insects. I now learnt that near to any lake or pool of water, the highest ground is always to be fixed upon for a night station ; even the commandant upon the hill had fires to wind- ward of the house during the whole of the night. Early in the morning we continued our jour- ney for some distance along the banks of the lake, and then entered upon some open land, which was now quite dry ; we slept under a clump of trees, distant about twenty miles from Piato. The cattle we saw this day, were in good SALT-MARSH. Iff condition, plainly showing, that the country en- joyed a plentiful supply of water. The road of the next day led us through woodlands, and over loose stony ground ; but the woods of this part of the country are not large and luxuriant ; they have not the grandeur of the forests of Pernambuco, nor is the brush- wood which grows under them so close and thick. We passed through some estates, of which the live stock seemed in good condition ; and saw this day a whole drove or lot (late) of cream- coloured mares. I asked for water to drink at one of the houses ; some was brought to me by a pretty white girl, who was apparently about seventeen years of age ; she talked a great deal, and in a lively manner, so as to show that she had inhabited more civilised regions. There were in the house two children of colour, which she told me were her's ; she was the daughter of a man of small property, who had married her contrary to her wishes, to a wealthy mulatto man. She gave a message to the guide to deliver to her husband, who was superintending the felling of some timber by the road side, along which we were to pass ; we met with him, he was of dark complexion, and about forty years of age. 1 learnt her story from the Acu guide ; he said, it had made some noise in these parts at the time. In the afternoon we passed over a salt- marsh, surrounded by great numbers of car- ;'.^V:-> 158 SALT-MARSH. nauba trees. We bordered the marsh, looking for a crossing and entered it, where we found the footsteps of others who had recently passed ; the mud was from twelve to eighteen inches deep where we crossed ; but it was in some parts im- passable. The salt had coagulated wherever the footstep of a horse had formed an opening in the mud, and had collected a small quantity of water. The breadth of the marsh might be about two hundred yards in the centre, and its length about one league. After leaving the marsh, we reached the taboleiro, upon which we were to sleep. Towards evening, the wind was high. I was riding as if I had been seated upon a side-saddle, with both my legs on the same side of the horse, and with my umbrella over my head to shade me from the heat of the sun ; a sudden gust of wind took me and my umbrella, and landed us in the sand, to the no small entertain- ment of my companions. If the horse had gone off, I should have been awkwardly situated ; but he had travelled too many leagues to be fright- ened at trifles such as these. We continued travelling for two days over the same kind of ground ; plains with trees thinly scattered, and spots of wooded land. We like- wise crossed two salt-marshes ; but upon these there was no mud. The water which oozes from the land, on digging into it, is however salt ; but the soil was dry and hard. Mimoza, the dog belonging to my new guide, afforded us ARMADILLOS. 1.59 considerable amusement. She generally made her way through the wood at a little distance from the road, now and then returning to the path. She was very expert in discovering the tatu bola, or rolling tatu, a small species of arma- dillo ; this animal is protected by its bony shell ; on being touched, it rolls itself up in the manner of the hedge-hog. As soon as the dog saw one of these, she touched it with her nose, and barked, continuing the same operation as often as the armadillo attempted to move, until her master answered the well-known signal. Several were caught in this manner. The flesh is as fine as that of a young pig. The tatu verdadeiro, or legitimate armadillo, which is much larger, does not roll itself up, and Mimoza sometimes pursued it to its hole, and stood at the mouth of it, until she had her master's permission to come away. There exists a third species of armadillo, called the tatu peba, which is said to feed upon human flesh. On the 7th December, we arrived at ten o'clock in the morning at the village of St. Luzia, containing from two to three hundred inhabi- tants. It is built in a square, and has one church ; the houses are small and low. Here I was able to replenish my spirit-bottles, and to purchase a supply of rapaduras. These are cakes of brown sugar or treacle, boiled to a sufficient consistency to harden, by which means it is more portable, lb'0 THE JAGUAR. and much less liable to be wasted in its con veyance. The day before we reached St. Luzia, our resting-place at mid-day was under some trees, and not far from a cottage. I observed the skin of a jaguar, the on$a pintada, in the language of the country, stretched upon several pieces of wood ; it had the appearance of being quite fresh. I had afterwards some conversation with the cottager, and he told me, that he had killed the animal to which the skin had belonged, with the assistance of three dogs, only the day before. It had committed great destruction, particularly among the sheep ; but had escaped for a length of time, from never appearing at the same place twice successively. The preceding day this man had gone out with his three dogs, as was occa- sionally his practice ; his musket was loaded, but he was without any farther supply of ammuni- tion, and he had his long knife in his girdle. One of the dogs got scent of the jaguar, and followed it up to the den ; the beast was within, the dogs attacked it ; one of them was killed, and another much maimed, which we saw, and even the third was hurt. The man fired as soon as the jaguar came out, and wounded it ; and when he saw that it was considerably disabled, he ran in upon the animal with his knife, and killed it ; in doing which, one of his arms was much lacerated, and this was bound up at the time I conversed with ST. LUZIA. 161 him. He asked for some powder, saying that there was still another jaguar in the neighbour- hood. The skins are much valued in Brazil for saddle-cloths ; and from the make of the saddles used in that country, a cloth of some sort, or a skin is required for each. I have the skin of a jaguar in my possession, which measures live feet and three inches. The oiica vermelha, felis con- color, and the onqa preta, felis discolor, are also to be met with ; but the jaguar is more common, and more dreaded than either of these. The same day we passed over the dry bed of the Panema ; it was the third river we had crossed since our departure from A911, and all were in the same state. St. Luzia stands upon the northern bank of a dry river, in a sandy loose soil. We took up our mid-day station under the roof of a miserable hut ; the ashes of an extinguished fire in its centre, and a bench of twisted twigs, alone de- noted that it had served as a dwelling. Several of the inhabitants of the village soon came to us to enquire for news from Pernambuco ; and among others, a young man, whose accent disco- vered him to be a native of some of the northern provinces of Portugal, and whose manner dis- played the idea which he entertained of his own importance ; he said, that he had orders from the commandant to demand my passport, to which I answered, that if the commandant had wished to vol. 1. M 162 PASSPORT DEMANDED. see the passport, he would certainly have sent one of his officers to ask for it ; the young man rejoined, that he was the Serjeant of the district. I said that I did not doubt the truth of what he said, but that I could not know him in that capa- city, because, instead of being in uniform, he had appeared in the usual dress of shirt and drawers; and I added, that his manner was such, that I had quite resolved not to show it to him at all. He said, I must and should show it ; I turned to Julio, and asked him, if he heard what the man said ; Julio answered, "Yes, sir, never mind."* The serjeant went off, and we prepared our arms, much to the amazement and amusement of some of the more peaceable inhabitants. I soon saw him again, and he was coming towards us, with two or three other persons ; I called to him to keep at a distance, telling him that Julio would fire if he did not. This he judged advisable to do ; and as I thought it proper and prudent to advance as soon as possible, we left the place soon after one o'clock, with a broiling sun ; therefore we then saw no more of the seneant. The drv river, upon which this village stands, divides the captaincies of Rio Grande and Seara, conse- quently there was much reason for the command- ant's demand of my passport j but it was neces- sary to preserve the high opinion generally en- ;: Deixacdar men avio." AN UNFINISHED HOUSE. 103 tertained of the name of Inglez, Englishman, wherever the people possessed sufficient know- ledge to understand that the said Inglezes were not bichos, or animals ; and also to keep up my own importance with the persons about me. It would not have answered, to have thus given way to a man who was inclined to make me ieel the consequence which he judged his place would allow him to assume. If I had been invited to the commandant's house in a civil way, or if the serjeant had come to me in his uniform, all would have gone well. These trifles, though ap- parently of no importance, weigh very heavily with persons who have made such small advances towards civilisation ; public opinion is every thing. If the idea of my being a bicho and a he- retic had not been counterbalanced by that of rank and consequence, I might have had the whole village upon me, and have been deserted by my own people into the bargain. The general features of the captaincy of Rio Grande may be laid down as displaying tolerable fertility to the southward of Natal, and as having a barren aspect to the northward of it, excepting the banks and immediate neighbourhood of the Potengi. We passed through the estate of Ilha, distant from St. Luzia one league and a half, and pro- ceeded, after taking water, four leagues beyond it, to an uninhabited and unfinished house. m l 2 The 164 AN UNFINISHED HOUSE. owner had commenced building during the rains of the former year, and had gone on with the work until the spring of water, near to the place, failed. The house was tiled and spacious; but the wood-work only of the walls was erected. It had been the intention of this person to estab- lish -dfaze?ida here ; but the failure of the spring of water would, probably, deter him from his purpose. The country from Ilha to Tibou, where we halted at noon on the following day, a distance of ten leagues, was now without water. Two parties of travellers, besides our own, had taken up their night's lodging at this unfinished house. The several fires, the groupes around them, some cooking, some eating, and others asleep ; the pack-saddles and trunks strewed about, as they had been taken from the horses' backs, formed a scene worthy of a painter ; all was darkness around, and the wind blew fresh, for the house had no walls, and no obstruction to oppose its entrance, save the upright posts which supported the roof. The light of the fires sometimes flashed upon one or other of the countenances of the travellers, and on these oc- casions alone could I discover their colour, and consequently, in some degree, their rank. I might be in the company of slaves or of white men, for both would have taken up their night's station in the same manner. An old man of co- lour addressed me, asking if I was the English- SALT-MARSH. 165 man who had rested at noon at St. Luzia; on my answering in the affirmative, he said that lie was at the commandant's at the time, and that there were several debates about the mode of pro- ceeding respecting me and mine — that my deter- mination not to give up my passport had caused some demur, and that among other suppositions of who I might be, one w r iseacre said, there was no knowing whether I was not one of Bonaparte's ministers, and what might be my diabolical plans. Indeed I was often amused with the strange ideas which the country-people entertained of dis- tant nations, of which they had heard the names, and perhaps some further particulars ; these were altered in such a manner by their misapprehen- sion, that it was oftentimes difficult to discover what the real circumstances were which had been related to them. We traversed another salt-marsh this after- noon. The marsh I have mentioned as having crossed on the 4th of this month, was the only one of that description which I met with. The others I have spoken of, and those which I shall have occasion to mention, are dry, and the soil upon them in summer is hard ; it is dark coloured, and produces no grass, but upon the skirts of the marshes are seen several sea-side plants, and the water that oozes from them is quite salt. Our road the next morning lay through brush- wood for three leagues over heavy sand, and m 3 I0(i T1B0U. three leagues over a salt-marsh. Near mid-day we passed a cottage, in which resided the herds- man of a Jazenda, and immediately beyond ascended a hill of heavy sand called Tibou, from which we again saw the sea. I scarcely can describe the sensations which were occasioned by this sight ; I felt as if I was at home, as if free to act as I pleased. The spring of water near to the cottage was dried up, but there was one on the opposite side of the sand-hill, which still afforded a small supply. We now took up our mid-day station under a miserable hut, erected at the summit of the hill, by the inhabi- tants of the cottage, for the purpose of curing their fish ; they had fixed upon this spot from its height and consequent exposure to the wind. The descent to the sea-shore is deep, but not dangerous, as the depth of the sand prevents any apprehension of a horse falling and rolling down. The great length of the journies of the two last days, had almost knocked up the horse upon which my Goiana guide rode ; I saw that the man was not inclined to walk for the purpose of easing the animal, and therefore wishing to see whatcould be done by example, I dismounted, and took off the greatest part of my clothes, re- moved the bit from my horse's mouth, tied the bridle round his neck, and turned him loose among the others j this had the desired effect. AREIAS. 16? and John also was then ashamed to be the only person on horseback. We advanced very quickly over the wet sands, passed two fishermen's huts distant from Tibou two leagues ; and one league further turned up from the shore by a steep, sandy path, which took us to the hamlet of Areias, composed of one respectable looking dwelling and five or six straw huts. The lands we passed this afternoon, bor- dering the shore, are low and sandy, without trees and without cultivation. In seasons less severe than this there is a small spring of water, not far from the fishermen's huts which we had passed, but now it was entirely dried up ; they stand near to a small piece of ground, of which the soil is less sandy than that in the neighbour- hood, and a crop of water-melons is usually ob- tained from it, which had however completely failed this year. On our arrival at Areias I made for the principal house, and asked for a night's lodging. The front room was offered to me, upon which our horses were unloaded, and our baggage put into it. I was surprised to see no elderly or middle aged person belonging to this house ; there were three or four boys only, of whom the oldest was about sixteen years of age, and he appeared to direct the concerns of the establishment. He had a piece of enclosed ground near to the house, into which he allowed M 4f 168 A GHOST. our horses to be turned, and this arrangement being made, I had then time to look round, and see my quarters. Not a tree or shrub was to be seen in the neighbourhood, but there were im- mense sand-hills on one side, and on the other the sea. The convenience of the spot for fishing could alone have made these people fix upon it for a residence. I sent out to purchase a fowl ; one was brought, for which I paid 640 reis, about 3s. 6d. Julio told me that he had seen some goats and kids, upon which I sent him to purchase one of the latter ; he returned with a large one, for which the owner asked 80 reis, less than 6d. I thought I was in duty bound to eat my fowl, but the kid was much finer of its kind. A boy passed in the evening with a large turtle, which he begged the guide to exchange for about one pound of the kid ; the meat was given to him, but his turtle would have been of no use to us. Julio, when lie went to purchase the ikid, had heard a long story about a ghost, which made its appearance in the house at which we had sta- tioned ourselves. The persons from whom he heard it, had advised him to make me acquaint- ed witli the circumstance, that I might move to some other place for the night. I began to sus- pect some trick, and told my people my idea of the sort of ghost we were likely to meet with ; I found that this cheered them, as by them sha- 10 CA.TUAES. 169 dows were more dreaded than flesh and blood. We slung our hammocks in different directions in the large room, and each took his arms, and settled for the night; — a sudden panic seized my additional guide, and lie was sneaking out of the room ; but I stopped him, and said, that I would send him back to his own country if he went out ; the business was however settled by taking the key from the door. The story ran thus: — The master and mistress of the house had been murdered by two of their slaves, and it was said that their ghosts occasionally took a walk in this room ; nay, it was even reported that the old gentleman used his gold-headed cane, and woke with it those who slept in the house. We had not, however, the honour of his company, and in the morning had much laughter, at the fellow who had been so dreadfully frightened. The country through which we proceeded on the morrow, presented a more cheering appear- ance. We reached, at a short distance from Areias, some enclosed and cultivated lands, then passed over a salt-marsh and arrived at Cajuaes, distant from Areias two leagues. The place receives its name from the great number of acaju trees, and consists of six or seven huts. Here we dined, finding good water and abun- dance of maize-stalks for our horses. There was some appearance of comfort and enjoyment of life, at least comparatively speaking. Beyond 1 70 AllACATI. Cajuaes three leagues we slept near to a hut, after travelling through some more cultivated ground. I was asked, by some persons at Ca- juaes, at what place I had slept the preceding night; I answered at Areias; they then en- quired in what house at Areias, as at that vil- lage there was none into which travellers could be received. I replied, that on the contrary, there was the great house, which I had found very comfortable; they were perfectly astonished at my sleeping in this haunted place, and for some time imagined that I was joking. After- wards, on other occasions, I heard of the same story, which appeared to have taken deep root in the faith of all those who spoke of it. The next day we reached Aracati, distant seven leagues from where we had slept, about five o'clock in the afternoon. Great part of this day's journey was through salt-marshes or plains covered with the Carnauba ; the tali naked stems of the palms, crowned with branches like the coco-tree at the summit, which rustle with the least breath of air, and the bare and dark- coloured soil upon which no grass grows and rarely any shrub, give a dismal look to these plains. The computed distance from A$u to Aracati is forty-five leagues. When I approached Aracati, I sent my Goiana guide forwards with the letter which I had received from the go- vernor of Rio Grande to Senhor Joze Fideles ARACATI. 171 Barrozo, a wealthy merchant and landed pro- prietor. On my arrival, I found that the guide had delivered the letter, and that Senhor Barrozo had given to him the keys of an unoccupied house, which I was to inhabit during my stay. The town of Aracati consists chiefly of one long street, with several others of minor im- portance branching from it to the southward ; it stands upon the southern bank of the river Ja- guaribe, which is so far influenced by the tide. At the ebb, the stream is fordable, and as it spreads considerably from the main channel, some parts remain quite dry at low water. The houses of Aracati, unlike those of any of the other small places which I visited, have one story above the ground floor ; I enquired the reason of this, and was told, that the floods of the river were sometimes so great, as to render necessary a retreat to the upper part of the houses. The town contains three churches, and a town-hali and prison, but no monasteries ; this captaincy does not contain any such pest. The inhabitants are in number about six hundred. The house I was to occupy consisted of two good-sized rooms, with large closets or small bed-chambers leading from each, called alcovas, and a kitchen ; these were all above ; and under- neath there was a sort of warehouse. To the back we had an oblong yard, enclosed by a brick wall, with a gate at the farther end, by which 17- ARACATJ. our horses entered ; and here they remained un- til better arrangements could be made for them. I slung my hammock in the front room, and de- sired that some fowls should be purchased, as stock, whilst we remained here. One was pre- paring for me, when three black servants ap- peared from Senhor Barrozo ; the first brought a large tray with a plentiful and excellently cooked supper, wine, sweetmeats, &c. ; a second carried a silver ewer and basin, and a fringed towel; and a third came to know if there was any thing which I particularly wished for, be- sides what had been prepared; this man took back my answer, and the other two remained to attend, until I had supped. I learnt from the guide afterwards, that another tray had been sent for my people. I supposed that Senhor Barrozo had thought proper to treat me in this manner on the day of my arrival, from an idea that I could not have arranged any means of cooking, &c. until the next day ; but in the morn- ing coffee and cakes were brought to me, and the same major-domo came to know if all was to my liking. Whilst I remained at Aracati, Sen- hor Barrozo provided every thing for me and for my people, in the same handsome manner. This treatment is usual where persons are well recommended ; it is noble, and shows the state of manners among the higher orders. In the morning I received a visit from Senhor ARACATI. 173 Barrozo, whose manners were ceremonious and courtly. On my mentioning the inconvenience to which I was putting him by my stay, he said, that he could not alter in any way his mode of treating me, because, if he did, he should not do his duty to the Governor of Rio Grande, to whom he owed many obligations, and, conse- quently, took every opportunity of showing his gratitude by all the means in his power. The reason which he thus gave for his civility com- pletely set at rest any thing I could have said to prevent its continuance. He ordered all my horses to be taken to an island in the river, upon which there was plenty of grass. I had resolved to send John back to Pernambuco by sea, and spoke to Senhor Barrozo upon the sub- ject, when he immediately said, that one of his smacks was going, in which my servant might have a birth. John was out of health, and not adapted to the kind of life which we had been leading, and should be yet under the necessity of continuing. This day I remained at home, employing the greatest part of it in sleeping • and in the evening returned Senhor Borrozo's visit. A white man, with whom my Goiana guide was acquainted, called upon me, and we arranged an expedition in a canoe, for the next day, to go down the river to its mouth. My guide's friend came as he had appointed, and his canoe was waiting for us. His two -.tfv'StO M 174 RIVER JAGUAIUBE. negroes poled where the water was shallow, and paddled us along where it became deep. We passed several beautiful islands, some of which had cattle upon them ; and others, of which the land was too low to produce grass ; the latter were entirely covered with mangroves, which grow likewise on the borders of the river, the shores being clear of them only where settle- ments are formed, and the proprietors have ex- tirpated them. The river is, in parts, about half a mile in breadth, and in some places, where there are islands, it is broader, if taken from the outermost sides of the two branches which it, in these situations, forms. The town is distant from the bar about eight miles. We boarded Senhor Barrozo's smack, took the long boat belonging to it, and proceeded to. the bar, which is narrow and dangerous, owing to the sand banks on each side ; upon these the surf is very violent. The sand is so loose at the mouth of the river, that the masters of the coasting vessels are obliged to use every precaution pos- sible each voyage, as if they were entering a harbour, with which they are unacquainted. The river widens immediately within the bar, and forms rather a spacious bay. Even if no other obstacle presented itself, the port cannot,, from the uncertainty of the depth of its en- trance, ever become of any importance. Coasters alone can enter, and I understand that the Tin: pOrt. n /•' sand in the river also accumulates ; the sand- banks project from each side in some places so much as to render the navigation, even lor a boat, somewhat difficult from a short distance above the bay. * On our return, we dined at an estate upon the banks of the river, of which the owner was an acquaintance of the man who had proposed this party. Opposite to the dwel- ling-house of this estate stands an island, which produces abundance of grass ; but there is no fresh water upon it ; this obliges the cattle that feed there regularly to pass over to the main land every day to drink, and return to the island, which they are so much accustomed to do, that no herdsmen is necessary to compel them. We saw them swim across, and all passed close to the house in their way to the pool. The owner said, that the calves invariably took that side of their mothers to which the tide was running, to prevent being carried away by the force of the stream : and indeed I observed, that all the calves took the same side. In the evening arrangements were made for the hire of two horses to carry me and one of my people to Seara, leaving my own beasts to rest for the journey back to Pernambuco. I * I heard in the beginning of the year 1815, that the bat- had been completely choked up during a violent gale of wind from the sea, whilst two coasters were in the river, taking in cargoes for Pernambuco. ■ • '«* I 176 JOURNEY TO SEARA. again called upon Senhor Barrozo, to make known to him my plan, and he then gave me a letter to a gentleman with whom he was ac- quainted at Seara. A guide for the journey was also procured. The horses were ready, and in the morning I set forth, accompanied by my Goiana guide, and the man whom I had hired for this additional journey ; he rode a horse witli which he had been charged to take to Seara. He was an old man, half mad, and very amusing. We hailed the ferryman to take us across the river before day-break ; but as he did not answer, we took possession of a large canoe which lay empty, and was tied to a post ; we got into it, and the Goiana guide paddled us very dexterously to the middle of the river, where the canoe grounded ; it had struck upon a sand-bank, owing to the man being unacquainted with the navigation of the stream. We w 7 ere obliged to undress, and get into the water to push the canoe off, which we succeeded in doing, and reached the opposite side in safety. The horses j- crossed over, tied to the sides of the canoe, swimming or taking the ground according to the depth of the water. The distance between Aracati and the Villa da Fortaleza do Seara Grande, is thirty leagues, principally consisting of sandy lands covered with brushwood j in a few places, the wood is ARRIVAL AT SEARA. 17? loftier and thicker, but of this there is not much. We passed also some fine varseas, or low marshy grounds, which were now sufficiently dry for cultivation ; and indeed the only land from which any crop could be expected in this parti- cularly severe dry season. The country is, generally speaking, flat, and in some parts the path led us near to the sea shore, but was never upon it. We saw several cottages, and three or four hamlets ; the facility of obtaining fish from the sea has rendered living comparatively easy in these parts. We passed through an Indian village, and the town of St. Joze, each built in a square, and each containing about three hun- dred inhabitants. I understood that the go- vernors of Seara are obliged to take possession of their office at St. Joze. We made the journey in four days, arriving at the Villa da Fortaleza on the 16th December, and might have entered it at noon on the fourth day, but I preferred waiting until the evening. I performed the journey from Natal to Seara, a distance of one hundred and sixty leagues, according to the vague computation of the country, in thirty- four days. The morning after my arrival I sent back to Aracati the men and horses which I had brought with me. The town of the fortress of Seara is built upon heavy sand, in the form of a square, with four streets leading from it, and it has an additional VOL. I. N ■ H ^i«w:y*;: 192 THE INDIANS. lunate in this respect than any other race with whom they were acquainted. All the Indians of Pernambuco speak Portuguese, but few of them pronounce it well ; there is always a cer- tain twang which discovers the speaker to be an Indian, although the voice was heard without the person being seen ; many of them however do not understand any other language. The Indians seldom if ever speak Portuguese so well as the generality of the Creole negroes. It must be perfectly understood, that although there may be some unfair dealings occasionally of the director towards the Indian, still this race cannot be enslaved ; the Indian cannot be made to work for any person against his inclination, he cannot be bought and sold. An Indian will sometimes make over his child, when very young, to a rich person to be taught some trade, or to be brought up as a household servant, but as soon as the child is of an age to provide for itself, it cannot be prevented from so doing ; it may leave the person under whose care it has been placed if it be so inclined. Two Indians presented themselves at the gate of the Carmelite convent of Goiana, and re- quested and were permitted to see the prior. They put into his hands a purse containing several gold coins, saying that they had found it near Dous Rios ; they begged that he would order a number of masses to be said in their THE INDTANS. 193 behalf, which were to be paid for from the con- tents of the purse. The prior, admiring their honesty, asked one of them to remain with him as his servant, to which the man agreed. The friar was in the habit of going into the country to a friend's house to shoot. On one occasion, after the Indian had served him for some time, he lei't the convent, and took him on one of these expeditions, but when they were about half way, the friar discovered that he had forgotten his powder-horn ; he gave the key of his trunk to the Indian, and desired him to fetch the powder whilst he proceeded. In vain he waited at his friend's house for his servant, and on his return to the convent in the evening he heard that he was not there. He went immediately to his cell, supposing that he had been robbed of all his money, and whatever else the fellow could carry off; but to his joy he discovered on ex- amination, that the man had only taken the powder-horn, two silver coins of about 4s. value each, an old clerical gown, and a pair of worn- out nankeen pantaloons. This story I had from an intimate friend of the prior. One of the days of my stay at Seara we passed upon the borders of a lake, which is between two and three leagues distant from the town, for the purpose of shooting. This lake was nearly dry. The general feature of the country about Seara is arid ; the captaincy produces no vol. i. o 194 LATE GOVERNOR OF SEARA. sugar, but the lands are adapted for cotton, of which however the crop this year was very trifling. So excessive had the drought become, that a famine was feared, and great distress wouid have been experienced if a vessel had not arrived from the southward laden with the flour of the mandioc. The usual price of it was 640 reisper alqueire, but the cargo of this vessel was sold at 6400 rets per alqueire ; a fact which proves the scarcity to have been very great. Formerly considerable quantities of beef were salted and dried here, and were exported to the other captaincies, but from the mortality among the cattle, caused by the frequent dry seasons, this trade has been unavoidably given up entirely, and the whole country is now supplied from the Rio Grande do Sul, the southern boundary of the Portuguese dominions. But the meat which arrives at Pernambuco from the Rio Grande do Sul still preserves its name of Seara meat, came do Seard. The country to the northward and eastward I understood to be much superior to that in the neighbourhood of Seara. The cap- taincy of Piauhi, which lies in that direction, is accounted fertile, and is not subject to droughts. Many were the praises which I heard of the late Governor of Seara, Joam Carlos, who was appointed to this province before he had arrived at the age of twenty years, and who was at the time I visited Seara captain-general of Mato FEITOZA CHIEF. 195 Grosso. His administration of justice was in general summary, but on one occasion he waved (lis usual severity ; he was informed, whilst playing at cards at the house of Senhor Marcos, which is near to the palace, that a soldier was robbing his garden. He answered, " Poor fel- low, great must be his hunger when he runs the risk of entering his Governor's garden — don't molest him." Some persons were in the practice of taking doors off their hinges, and other tricks of the same sort, during the night ; the Governor had in vain attempted to discover who they were, and he resolved at last to wrap himself up in his cloak and to apprehend some of them, if possible, with his own hands. A young man, with whom I was acquainted, had met the Governor on one of these nights, he demanded his name, and, on discovering who it was, admonished him to be at home at an earlier hour on the following evening. The family of the Feitozas still exists in the interior of this captaincy and that of Piauhi, in possession of extensive estates, which are covered with immense droves of cattle. In the time of Joam Carlos, the chiefs had risen to such power, and were supposed to be so completely out of the reach of punishment, that they entirely refused obedience to the laws, both civil and criminal, such as they are. They revenged their own wrongs ; persons obnoxious to them o 2 196 FEITOZA CHIEF. were publicly murdered in the villages of the interior ; the poor man who refused obedience to their commands was devoted to destruction, and the rich man, who was not of their clan, was obliged silently to acquiesce in deeds of which he did not approve. The Feitozas are descendants of Europeans, but many of the branches are of mixed blood, and perhaps few are free from some tinge of the original inha- bitants of Brazil. The chief of the family was a colonel of militia, and could at a short notice call together about one hundred men, which is equal to ten or twenty times the number in a well-peopled country. Deserters were well re- ceived by him, and murderers who had com- mitted this crime in the revenge of injuries ; the thief was not accepted, and much less the man who for the sake of pillage had taken the life of another. Joam Carlos had received from Lisbon secret instructions to secure the person of this chief of the Feitozas. His first step was to inform the colonel, that he intended on a certain day to visit him at his village, for the purpose of reviewing his regiment. The village is not many leagues from the coast, but is distant considerably from Seara. Feitoza answered, that he should be ready to receive His Excellency on the appointed day. The time came, and Joam Carlos set out, accompanied by ten or twelve persons; the FEITOZA CHIEF. 197 colonel greeted him most courteously, and had assembled all his men to make the greatest pos- sible show. After the review, the colonel dismissed them, fatigued with the day's exer- cise, for many of them had travelled several leagues. He retired with the Governor to his house, accompanied by a few of his near rela- tions. At the time all the party was preparing to settle for the night, Joam Carlos, having arranged every thing with his own people, rose and presented a pistol to the breast of the chief, his followers doing the same to the colonePs relations and servants, who were unable to make any resistance, as they were unprepared, and not so numerous as the Governor's men. Joam Carlos told Feitoza, that if he spoke or made the least noise he should immediately fire, though he well knew that his own destruction would be certain. He conducted him to the back door, and ordered him and all the persons present to mount the horses which had been prepared for them. They made for the sea-shore, and arrived there very early in the morning ; jangadas were in waiting to take them on board a smack, which was lying off and on near to the coast. The alarm was given soon after their departure from Feitoza's village, and as the Governor reached the smack, he saw the colonel's adherents upon the beach, embarking in jangadas to try to overtake them, but it was too late j the smack o 3 w 198 fKiTOZA CflifiF. left the land, and the next day made for the shore, landed the Governor, and then proceeded on her voyage. Feitoza was supposed to be in the prison of the Limoeiro at Lisbon when the French entered Portugal, and either died about that time or was released bv them.* His fol- • Another member of this family was also to be appre- hended, but the Governor could not fix upon any means by which the arrest was to be accomplished. A man of well- known intrepidity and of some power was sent for by the Governor, to consult with him upon the subject. This per- son offered to go alone, and acquaint the Feitoza with the orders that had been issued against him, and in fact to try to take him into custody. He set off, but Feitoza was ap- prized of his coming and of his errand, and, immediately leaving his estate, proceeded to Bahia, where he embarked for Lisbon, arriving in due time at that place. The person who set off to arrest him followed him from place to place, arrived at Bahia, and embarked for and landed at Lisbon, He enquired for Feitoza, heard that he had spoken to the secretary of state, and had again embarked on his return homewards, but that the ship was delayed by contrary winds. He likewise went to the secretary, and showed the orders which he had received for the arrest of Feitoza, making known the particular crimes which had made his apprehen- sion requisite. Feitoza was taken into custody, and put into the Limoeiro prison, where his persecutor or prosecutor went to visit him, saying as he approached, — "Well, did not I say so," — " Entam eu que disse," alluding to his determina- tion of apprehending him. He returned to Brazil, and gave an account of his mission to the Governor, from whom he had received his orders. This man was well known in the province of Seara, and the truth of the story is vouched for by many respectable persons with whom I conversed. This Feitoza has not been heard of. SOCIETY AT SEARA. 199 Jewel's still look forwards to his return. The loss of their chiefs broke the power and union of the clan, and they have had disputes among themselves. Brazil is likewise undergoing a change of manners, and emerging rapidly f-om semi-barbarism. A young man of Seara had been, a short time before my arrival, to the distance of thirty leagues into the interior, accompanied by two constables, to serve a writ upon a man of some property for a debt ; they rode good horses, that they might perform their errand before he could have any knowledge that they w T ere going, and might attempt, in consequence, any thing against their lives. It is a dangerous service to go into the interior to recover debts. The Portu- guese law does not allow of arrest for debt, but by serving a writ any property which was sent down to the town to be shipped might be seized. I was received at Seara most hospitably ; the name of Englishman was a recommendation. In the morning I generally remained at home, and in the afternoon rode out with three or four of the young men of the place, who were much superior to any I had expected to find here, and in the evening a large party usually assembled at the house of Senhor Marcos •, his company and that of his wife and daughter would have been very pleasant any where, but was particu- o 4 i aoo DROUGHT. larly so in these uncivilised regions. Parties were likewise occasionally given at the palace, and at both these places, after tea and coffee, cards and conversation made the evenings pass very quickly. The palace was the only dwelling in the town which had boarded floors : it ap- peared at first rather strange to be received by one of the principal officers of the province, in a room with a brick floor and plain white- washed walls, as occurred at the house of Senhor Marcos. This gentleman had delivered to me a crim- son-coloured satin bag, containing government papers, and directed to the Prince Regent of Portugal and Brazil, and he gave me directions to put it into the bands of the post-master at Pernambuco. I obtained, from being the bearer, the power of requiring horses from the several commandants upon the road. To him it was convenient, as with me its chance of safety was greater than if it had been forwarded by a single man on foot, which is the usual mode of conveyance. The men employed for this pur- pose are trust-worthy, but must of course some- times meet with accidents. I had in my journey from Goiana to Seara seen Pernambuco, and the adjoining provinces to the northward, in almost their worst state — that of one whole season without rain ; but ex- treme wretchedness is produced by two sue- ACCIDENT IN BATHING. 201 cessive years of drought : in such a case, on the second year, the peasants die by the road side ; entire families are swept away ; entire districts are depopulated. The country was in this dreadful state in 1791, % 3, for these three years passed without any considerable fall of rain. In 1810, food was still to be purchased, though at exorbitant prices, and in the following year the rains came down in abundance, and removed the dread of fa- mine. I had, I say, seen the provinces through which I passed upon the brink of extreme want, owing to the failure of the rains ; I had myself experienced inconvenience from this cause, and in one instance considerable distress from it ; now, in returning, the whole country was changed, the rains had commenced, and 1 was made to feel that great discomfort is caused by each extreme ; but the sensations which the apprehension of a want of water produces are much more painful than the dis- agreeable effects of an immoderate quantity of it — heavy rains and flooded lands. I was obliged to stay at Seara longer than I had at first intended, owing to an accident which I met with in bathing ; this confined me to my bed for some days. As soon as I was allowed to move, I made preparations for my return : I purchased four horses, one to carry my trunk and a small barrel of biscuit, a second for 202 DEPARTURE FROM SEARA. farinJuiy a third for maize, and the fourth for myself. Senhor Lourerx^o sent for three trusty Indians from one of the villages for the pur- pose of accompanying me, and on the 8th of January, 1811, I commenced my return to Fernambuco. ( 203 ) CHAP. VIII. RETURN. — CATTLE. CIFE. FROM SEARA TO NATAL. SERTANEJOS. — VEGETABLE WAX. FROM NATAL TO RE- LEFT Seara at day-break with three Indians, and three loaded horses, and one of the young men with whom I had formed an ac- quaintance accompanied me to a short distance from the town. I deviated on my return to Aracati, in some measure, from the road by which I had travelled to Seara. The first day passed without any circumstance worthy of being mentioned, and I was chiefly occupied in rinding out what sort of beings my Indians were, for I had had very little conversation with them before we set off. In the afternoon of the second day, having asked one of the Indians if the road was intricate to our next resting-place, and being answered, that there was no turning by which I could lose the right path, I left the loaded horses and rode on, being tired of following them at a foot's pace; — this I had often done on other occasions. About five o'clock I put up at a cottage in which were two boys, whose appearance was very wretched, but they seemed glad to say that they would let me have a night's F £04 DISTRESS AT A COTTAGE. lodging. On enquiry, they told me that their parents were gone to some distance to make paste from the stem of the Carnauba, for that thetf usual food, the flour of the mandioc, was no longer to be had at any price in that neighbour- hood. I was shown some of this paste, which was of a dark brown colour*, and of the con- sistence of dough that has not been sufficiently kneaded ; it was bitter and nauseous to the taste. On this substance these miserable people were under the necessity of subsisting, adding to it occasionally dried fish or meat. My party ar- rived about an hour after me, and late in the evening, the younger boy began to beg ; incon- siderately I gave him money, but shortly he re- turned, saying his elder brother desired him to tell me, that it would be of no use to them, as nothing could be purchased with it. Then I understood their meaning in begging at this moment, — my men were going to supper, — the children were of course desired to sit down with them. Here Feliciano, one of the Indians, sewed two hides looselv round the two bags of farinha, saying, that if we proceeded without disguising what they contained, we should at some hamlet upon the road be obliged to satisfy the people, who would probably beg part of it * Arrudasays it is white, [vide Appendix,] therefore some other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw. 14 ARACATI. 20.5 from us. He had not known, before he en- quired from these children, that this part of the country was in such a dreadful state of want. The inhabitants had eaten up their own scanty crop, and some of them had even been tempted, by the exorbitant price, to carry their stock to Seara for sale. They had not heard of the sup- ply which had arrived at that place from the southward. We reached Aracati on the fifth day. I remained two days at Aracati, that the horses might be brought from the island upon which they had been put out to grass. I expe- rienced fully now what the guide had before told me respecting the horses. They had all lost flesh, and were apparently less fit for work than when I first arrived at Aracati, though doubtless the relief from daily work for so long a period must have rendered them better able to renew it again now. The Spanish discoverers in South America, who understood the business into which they had entered, strongly inculcated to their people the necessity of the steady and regular continuance of their journies, unless a pause could have been m^de for some length of time. * I bought a large dog at Aracati, which had been trained to keep watch over the bag- gage of travellers. * Cabeca de Vaea is particularly mentioned. — History '>i Brazil, vol. i. j>. 109. 206 A PORTUGUESE SAILOR. A man presented himself here, requesting to be allowed to go with me to Pernambuco. He described himself as a Portuguese sailor, a Euro- pean by birth, and as having belonged to the Portuguese sloop of war called the Andorinha, which was wrecked upon the coast between Para and Maranham. He had travelled from the spot at which he had landed to this place without any assistance from government. No provision had been made by any of the men in power for the subsistence of the persons who escaped. I consented to his joining me; he behaved well, and I never afterwards had any cause to doubt the truth of his story. I had now a great increase in my number of men and horses, but was advised to take the men all forwards with me, as the rains might commence and the rivers fill, in which case the more people I had to assist in crossing them, with less danger would it be accomplished. The additional number of horses enabled me to di- vide the weight into smaller loads, and to have two or three beasts unencumbered, for the pur- pose of relieving the others if necessary. The party now consisted of nine persons and eleven horses. Senhor Barrozo's kindness was still continued towards me, and I hope I shall never cease to feel grateful for it. I was advised to get on to the sea-shore as JAGUARS. 207 soon as possible on leaving Aracati, this being the better road; consequently I slept the first night, distant three leagues from that place, at Alagoa do Mato — a small lake which was now nearly dried up. The following morning we tra- velled over the sands, passed a small village near to the shore called Retiro, and slept at Cajuaes, a place we were acquainted with ; and from hence to St. Luzia we followed the same route as in going to Seara. From Cajuaes we passed through Areias, famous for the ghost story, and rested at Tibou, proceeding in the afternoon with the intention of sleeping at the unfinished house on the road to Ilha ; but the night was closing in upon us when we were still two leagues short of it, and for this reason it was thought advisable to stop and pass the night among the brushwood. We had had several showers of rain, occasionally for some days past, and although they were slight, the grass had begun to spring up in some places. The rapidity of vegetation in Brazil is truly astonishing. Rain in the even- ing, upon good soil, will by sun-rise have given a greenish tinge to the earth, which is increased, if the rain continues, on the second day to sprouts of grass of an inch in length, and these on the third day are sufficiently long to be picked up by the half-starved cattle. The brushwood among which we had deter- mined to pass the night was low and not close, ;'.' ( ti*'>>; 208 JAGUARS, so that only two shrubs were found to be near enough to each other and of sufficient strength to support a hammock; between these mine was hung, whilst the people took up their quarters upon the packages as to them seemed best. Be- tween one and two o'clock in the morning the rain commenced, at first, with some moderation ; the guide fastened two cords from shrub to shrub above my hammock, and laid some hides upon them as a covering for me, but soon the rain increased, and the whole party crowded under the hides. I got up, and all of us stood together in some degree sheltered, until the hides fell down owing to their being quite soaked. Our fires were of course completely extinguished. I reminded my people of the ne- cessity of keeping the locks of" our fire-arms dry ; indeed those persons of the party who knew the Sertam must be even more aware than myself of the number of Jaguars which are to be met with upon these travessias. I had not spoken many minutes before Feliciano said that he heard the growl of one of these animals — he was right, for a lot of mares galloped across the path not far from us, and shortly after the growl was distinctly heard ; either the same or many of these beasts were near to us during the remainder of the night, as we heard the growl in several directions. We stood with our backs to each other, and by no means free from the chance of JAGUARS. 209 being attacked, though the Indians from time to time set up a sort of song or howl, (such as is practised hy the Sertanejos when guiding large droves of half-tamed cattle) with the intent of frightening the Jaguars. Towards day-break the deluge somewhat abated, but still the rain was hard and it did not cease. In the morning there was much difficulty in finding the horses, as the Jaguars had frightened and scattered them ; indeed we much doubted that they would all be alive, but I suppose the wild cattle were preferred as being in better condition. The loads were arranged, and we proceeded to Ilha, distant six leagues, arriving there about two o'clock in the afternoon, after having sustained twelve hours of continued rain. The owner of the estate of Ilha sent a message to say that he wished me to remove from the out-house, in which I had settled myself for the remainder of the day and ensuing night, to his residence ; I accepted his offer. It was a low mud cottage covered with tiles, which had been made from the clay that is to be found upon the skirts of the salt-marsh near to which his house stood. He gave us plenty of milk and dried meat; there was a scarcity of Jarmha y but a plentiful year was expected. Immediately on my entrance into his house he offered me his hammock, in which he had been sitting, but mine was soon slung, and we sat, talked, and smoked for a con- vol. r. r 210 EFFECTS OF THE RED BAG. siderable time. The mosquitos were very trouble- some; indeed from this day we were scarcely ever without them at night, and they annoyed us more or less, according to the state of the wind and the quantity of rain which had fallen during the day. The inconvenience occasioned by these insects is inconceivable, until it has been experienced. The next day we advanced to the village of St. Luzia, and rested at noon there in an un- finished cottage. Soon after we had unloaded our horses, and I had lain myself down in my hammock intending to sleep, the guide told me that a number of people appeared to be assem- bling near to us, and that I ought to recollect the quarrel which we had had here in going. I got up and asked for my trunk, opened it with as little apparent design as possible, turned over several things in it, and taking out the Red Bag, placed it upon a large log of timber near to me, and then I continued to search in the trunk, as if for something I could not immediately find. When I looked up again, in a few minutes, all the persons who had assembled were gone— - either the important consequences attending this bag were known, — that of having the power of making a requisition of horses, or some other idea of my situation in life was given by the sight of this magical bag. The river near St. Luzia had not yet filled. We proceeded in the after- THE AGUE. 211 noon and reached the banks of the river Panema, a narrow but now a rapid stream. One of the men went in to try if it was fordable, but before he was half way across, he found that it would be impossible to pass, as the rapidity and depth would effectually prevent any attempt to carry the packages over upon the heads of the Indians. I desired the people to remain where they were, whilst I turned back with the Goiana guide to look for some habitation, because, owing to the commencement of the rains, sleeping in the open air would have been highly imprudent. We made for a house, which was situated among the Carnauba trees, at some distance from the road, and as the owner of it said that he could accommodate us, and that there was abundance of grass for our horses, the guide re- turned to bring the party to this place, which was called St. Anna. In the course of the night I had an attack of ague, which would have de- layed me at St. Anna even if the height of the waters had not prevented me from proceeding. However I became more unwell, and perhaps I imagined myself to be worse than I really was, but I began to wish to arrive at A911, as, by so doing, I should be advancing upon my journey, and at the same time I should obtain the ad- vantage of being near to some priest, to whom I could impart any message which I might have to send to my friends. Although I was not in p 2 ■ or armadillo, both having been given to me by the commandant. The former kept pace with the horses for many days, and it p 4 w 216 CROSS THE RIVER ACU. never gave us any trouble, until the long con- tinuance of the journey wearied it out, and then I was obliged to make room for it in one of the panniers ; in this manner it travelled for a day or two at a time. The armadillo was Gonveyed in a small bag, and only on one occasion gave us any trouble ; when we released it at our resting-places, it usually remained among the packages, either feeding or rolled up. It was with some difficulty that Mimoza was prevented from annoying it ; but latterly she and the armadillo were very good friends. At Acu I changed one of my horses for another that was in better condition, and gave about the value of a guinea to-boot. Our friends, the saddler and the owner of the house which we had inhabited in going, received us very cordially, and offered to assist us in crossing the river, which was full ; but they advised me to wait for a decrease of the depth and rapidity of the stream ; however I was anxious to advance, and my people made no objection. Here I discharged the young man whom I had taken from hence as a guide to Aracati. We crossed the smaller branch of the river with the water reaching to the flaps of the saddles. When we arrived at the second and principal branch, it was discovered that a jangada would be necessary to convey the bag- gage across. Several of the inhabitants of the CROSS THE RIVER ACU, 217 place had followed us, judging that this would be the case, and they were willing to be of service to us in expectation of being compen- sated for their trouble. A few logs of timber were soon procured ; some of them had been brought down by the stream, and were now upon the banks, and others were conveyed from the town ; the cords with which the packages were fastened to the pack-saddles were made use of to tie the logs together, for the purpose of forming the raft. The father of the young man who had been with me to Aracati accom- panied us to the river side to assist, and had brought Mimoza with him. I requested him to secure her, otherwise I thought she would follow me ; he did so, and sent her back to the town by a boy. When the raft was prepared, the saddles and all the packages were placed upon it, and I sat down among them. Four men laid hold of each side of the raft, and shoved off from the shore, and when they lost their footing, each man kept hold of the raft with one hand, swimming with the other ; but not- withstanding their exertions, the stream carried us down about fifty yards before we reached the other side, which however was gained in safety. The Indians were already there with the horses. The river of A$u is from two to three hundred yards in breadth ; it was now deep and dangerous, and from the violence of '^18 THE DOG. the current, a guide is requisite, that advantage may be taken of the shallowest parts. The Sertanejos have a curious contrivance for cross- ing rivers, which is formed of three pieces of wood, and upon this they paddle themselves to the opposite side. I heard it often spoken of by the name of cavalete ; but as I did not see any of them, I cannot pretend to give an exact description. * The men soon left us to arrange the loads, which we were doing with all possible expedi- tion, when, on turning round, I saw Mimoza running up to me, half crouched and half afraid. I had often wished to purchase this animal, but nothing would induce her master to part with her ; he said that he had had her from a whelp, and added, that if he put the pot upon the fire, and then went out with her, he was sure to return by the time it boiled, bringing something with which to fill it. He did not mean that this was literally the case ; but thus quaintly he wished to impress the idea of her great expertness in hunting. She followed us, as she found that she was well received. We advanced, and halted at St. Ursula, zjazenda, distant from A911 one league and a half, and * There is a print in Barlaeus which represents the Por- tuguese crossing the river St. Francisco upon rafts or logs of timber; these must, I think, have been similar to those which are at present used in the Sertam. THE DOG. 219 nere we slept. The roads lay through woods, which were thick and close. From hence to the Seara-Meirim, the country was new to me, as I deviated from the road by which I had arrived at Acu, on my way northwards. I now took the shortest road to Natal, but had frequently to cross this winding river. Whilst I was at dinner, Mimoza was near to me watching for her share, when suddenly she crept under the bench upon which I sat ; I soon saw what had caused this movement, for the old man, the father of her owner, was coming towards us ; he said that he came for his son's dog. I persuaded him to sell her, and when he was going his way, Mimoza ran out from under the bench, and fawned upon him. I told him to go on, and invite her to follow him ; but upon this she immediately returned growling to her old station under the bench. She had been better treated and better fed with me than when she was with her master. I always fed her my- self, and had several times prevented him from beating her. The next day we passed through the Jazendas of Passagem and Barra ; the road was over loose stony ground and we crossed one dry marsh. In the afternoon we travelled from S. Bento to Anjicos, which obliged us to pass over some higher ground, which was very stony and pain- <2&) THE EMA. f'ul to our horses. We crossed a small shallow stream several times. Our next day's march carried us across more Si,ony ground. The persons to whom we spoke, said that there had been no rain, and indeed this was evident. There was no grass, and the country was yet parched and dreary. The horses had no water at noon, for the well was small, and the spring w T hich supplied it was insufficient for so great a number of beasts. I was thirsty in the afternoon, and therefore left the comboio to follow at its usual pace, and rode on accompanied by Julio ; the two dogs likewise would come with us. We entered upon a plain, and now for the second time I saw an ema, a species of ostrich. Notwithstanding my attempts to prevent them, the dogs set off after it, and much against my inclination I was obliged to wait until their return. The bird ran from them with great velocity, flapping its w r ings, but never leaving the ground. The emas outstrip the fleetest horses. The colour of the one which we saw was a dark gray ; its height, including the neck, which was very long, was about that of a man on horseback, and it had that appearance at first sight, when at some distance. The Sertanejos say, that when pur- sued the ema spurs itself to run the faster ; that the spurs or pointed bones are placed in the FIND WATER. 221 inside of the wings, and that as these are flapped, the bones strike the sides and wound them. I have heard many people say, that when an ema is caught after a hard chace, the sides are found to be bloody. It is possible that this effect may be produced by some cause similar to that by which a pig cuts its own throat in swimming. The eggs of the ema are large, and although the food which they afford is coarse, it is not unpalatable. The feathers are much esteemed. When the dogs returned, we continued our journey ; the road led us between high rocks, and after proceeding along it for some time, the dogs suddenly struck from the path, and went up the side of a flat rock, which sloped down towards the road, but was sufficiently low to allow of a horse ascending it. Our horses stopped and snuffed up the air. Julio cried out at the same time " Water, water," and spurred his horse to follow the dogs, and I did the same. Julio was quite correct in what he had supposed, from the direction which the dogs immediately took, and from the stopping of the horses. There was a long and narrow but deep cleft in the rock, which was nearly full of water, clear and cold. The sides of the cleft slanted inwards, and the water was below the surface, so that the dogs were running round and howling, with- out being able to reach it ; the horses too, as soon as we dismounted, and they saw the water, 222 REACH A I AZENDA. began to paw, and attempted to press forwards to drink. We had brought no vessel with which to take up any of it, and were under the neces- sity of using our hats to satisfy the horses and dogs. The rest of the party came up after some time ; Feliciano was acquainted with the spot, but if the dogs and horses had not pointed it out to Julio, he and I should have missed it. We were delayed considerably in giving water enough to all the horses, as we had no large vessel in which to take it up. I heard from Feliciano, and subsequently from other persons, that these clefts in the rocks are common ; but that they are known to few, and those prin- cipally of his rank and occupation in life, and that this knowledge enabled him to find plenty of water when others were in great distress. He said, *' we never refuse to give information, but we say as little about it as possible." I tra- velled until ten o'clock at night, wishing to reach some Jazenda, and not to remain in the open air, as there were several heavy clouds flying about, from the look of which we well knew that if the wind abated, rain would come on. We reached a Jazenda, and applied for a night's lodging, which was granted j but upon a survey of the interior of the house, I pre- ferred the open air with all its disadvantages. The place was full of persons who had assembled from the neighbouring estates, in expectation of PROCEED ON THE JOURNEY. 223 rain, as they had come to assist in collecting cattle. The fellows were eating dried meat, and had by some means obtained a quantity of rum. I took up my station at a distance from the house, and we scarcely laid down during the night, from the fear of rain, and in some mea- sure that we might be prepared to prevent any of our horses being stolen, as a piece of sport, by the people in the house. The next day we crossed over a plain which was partly without trees and in part covered with brushwood ; in going over this last por- tion I had pushed on with Julio, leaving the co??ihoio to follow us. We had nearly lost our way at the division of several paths ; even Julio's knowledge was insufficient, and had we not met some travellers and enquired of them, I know not how far from the baggage we might have been at night. On the following morning we advanced again, took water in skins near to some cottages, and at noon stationed ourselves in the bed of a rivulet, where there was good grass, but no water. As the bed was lower than the neigh- bouring land the very first shower had made the grass spring up, though there had not been rain sufficient to excite vegetation upon its banks. Here the armadillo strayed into some brushwood ; Feliciano followed it by the marks of its footsteps over the grass and dry leaves, and 224 CROSS AGAIN THE SEARA-MEIRIM. brought it back. I am quite confident that he did not see which way it went, ,and to a person unused to tracing footsteps there appeared to be none. If it had passed over sand, there would not have been any thing extraordinary in dis- covering the way which the animal had taken, but upon grass and dry leaves so small an animal could make but a most trifling impression. 1 mentioned at this place accidentally that the skins had spoiled the water, for it tasted of the grease with which they had been rubbed. Feli- ciano heard me, and took up a small skin that lay empty, which was old and therefore not greasy, and said, " 111 try to find some for you that is better ;" and away he went. In about an hour he returned with the skin full of ex- cellent water. He had recollected a cleft in a rock at some distance, and had gone to see if any yet remained in it. We slept at a faze?ida, and the next day pro- ceeded in the expectation of reaching the Seara- Meirim, which we did. This track of country had not recovered from the drought, but the trees were beginning to be clothed, and the grass under them was in most parts of sufficient length to afford subsistence to our horses. Wa- ter was still scarce and bad, but the rain had made it less brackish and more plentiful. We passed over the travessia with all possible haste, as the floods were expected shortly, and sometimes IO SEASONS. 235 the water comes down, as I have before stated, with great rapidity. There is some danger in being caught by the water upon any of the peninsulas or islands which are formed by its bends, for to be under the necessity of crossing over a stream which runs with much violence, perhaps ten times or more, successively, would be too much for almost any horse to bear, and particularly for those which were already fatigued by along journey. We left the Seara- Meirim in four* days, passed Pai Paulo, and early on the fifth day arrived again at the dry lake. The people of this place were upon the point of decamping, as the rains were expected, or rather had already commenced. We now met several parties of travellers who had taken advantage of the first rains to pass over this track of country, and who were hastening before the floods came down the river. January is not, properly speaking, the rainy season. The rains at the commencement of the year are called the primeiras aguas or the first waters, and continue for about a fortnight or three weeks, after which the weather generally becomes again settled until May or June, and from this time until the end of August the rains are usually pretty constant. From August or September until the opening of the year there is not usually any rain. The dry weather can be depended upon with more certainty from VOL. I. Q 226 THR SERTAM. September until January, than from February until May; likewise the wet weather can be looked for with more certainty from June until August than in January. There are very few days during the whole course of the year of in- cessant rain. What I have said regarding the seasons must however be taken with some lati- tude, as in all climates they are subject to variation. The horse I left at the dry lake was faith- fully delivered to me, and I continued my journey on the following day to Natal. The Governor received me with the same cordiality as before. I had now left the Sertam, and though it treated me rather roughly, still I have always wished I could have seen more of it. There is a certain pleasure which I cannot describe in crossing new countries, and that portion of ter- ritory over which I had travelled was new to an Englishman. From the sensations which I ex- perienced I can well imagine what those are, which travellers in unexplored countries must feel at every step — at every novelty which comes under their view. There is yet much ground upon the continent of South America to be traversed, and I most heartily wish that it had been my fate to be the civilised individual first doomed to cross from Pernambuco to Lima. I have perhaps hardly said sufficient to give a CUSTOMS OF THE SERTANEJOS. 227 correct idea of the inhabitants of the fazendas or cattle estates. Unlike the Peons of the coun- try in the vicinity of the river Plata, the Ser- tanejo has about him his wife and family, and lives in comparative comfort. The cottages are small and are built of mud, but afford quite sufficient shelter in so fine a climate ; they are covered with tiles where these are to be had, or, as is more general, with the leaves of the Carnauba. Hammocks usually supply the place of beds, and are by far more comfortable, and these are likewise frequently used as chairs. Most of the better sort of cottages contain a table, but the usual practice is for the family to squat down upon a mat in a circle, with the bowls, dishes, or gourds in the centre, thus to eat their meals upon the floor. Knives and forks are not much known, and are not at all made use of by the lower orders. It is the custom in every house, from the highest to the lowest, as in former times, and indeed the same practice prevails in all the parts of the country which I visited, for a silver basin, or one of earthenware, or a cuia, and a fringed cambric towel, or one that is made of the coarse cotton cloth of the country, to be handed round, that all those who are going to sit down to eat may wash their hands ; and the same ceremony, or rather neces- sary piece of cleanliness, takes place again after the meal is finished. Of the gourds great use q 2 ■ ■ w !^'V v;,-i»'^fr *?< : :.m ^H &*>;■.: 228 DRESS OF THE SERTANEJOS. is made in domestic arrangements -, they are cut in two, and the pulp is scooped out, then the rind is dried, and these rude vessels serve almost every purpose of earthenware — water is carried in them, &c. and they are Hkewise used as mea- sures.- They vary from six inches in circum- ference to about three feet, and are usually rather of an oval shape. The gourd when whole is called cabala, and the half of the rind is called euia. It is a creeping plant, and grows spontaneously in many parts, but in others the people plant it among the mandioc. The conversation of the Sertanejos usually turns upon the state of their cattle or of women, and, occasionally, accounts of adventures which took place at Recife or at some other town. The merits or demerits of the priests with whom they may happen to be acquainted are likewise discussed, and their irregular practices are made a subject of ridicule. The dress of the men has already been described, but when they are at home a shirt and drawers alone remain. The women have a more slovenly look, as their only dress is a shift and petticoat, no stockings, and oftentimes no shoes ; but when they leave home, which is very seldom, an addition is made of a large piece of coarse white cloth, either of their own or of European manufacture, and this is thrown over the head and shoulders ; a pair of shoes is likewise then put on. They are good DRESS OF THE SERTANEJOS. horsewomen, and the high Portuguese saddle serves the purpose of a side-saddle very com- pletely. I never saw any Brazilian woman riding, as is the case occasionally in Portugal, in the manner that men do. Their employment con- sists in household arrangements entirely, for the men even milk the cows and goats : the women spin and work with the needle. No females of free birth are ever seen employed in any kind of labour in the open air, excepting in that of occasionally fetching wood or water, if the men are not at home. The children generally run about naked until a certain age, but this is often seen even in Recife ; to the age of six or seven years, boys are allowed to run about without any clothing. Formerly, I mean before the commencement of a direct trade with England, both sexes dressed in the coarse cotton cloth which is made in the country ; the petticoats of this cloth were sometimes tinged with a red dye, which was obtained from the bark of the coipuna tree, a native of their woods ; and even now this dye is used for tinging fishing-nets, as it is said that those which have undergone this process last the longer. In those times, a dress of the common printed cotton of English or of Portuguese manufacture cost from eight to twelve milreis> from two to three guineas, owing to the monopoly of the trade, by which the merchants of Recife put what price Q 3 '•>• ■ H H 230 CHARACTER OF THE SERTANEJOS. they pleased upon their commodities ; other things were in proportion. Owing to the enor- mous prices, European articles of dress could of course only be possessed by the rich people. However, since the opening of the ports to foreign trade, English goods are finding their way all over the country, and the hawkers are now a numerous body of men. The women seldom appear, and when they are seen do not take any part in the conversation, unless it be some one good wife who rules the roast ; if they are pre- sent at all when the men are talking, they stand or squat down upon the ground, in the door- way leading to the interior of the house, and merely listen. The morals of the men are by no means strict, and when this is the case, it must give an unfavourable bias, in some degree, to those of the women ; but the Sertanejo is very jealous, and more murders are committed, and more quarrels entered into on this score, by ten-fold, than on any other. These people are revengeful ; an offence is seldom pardoned, and in default of law, of which there is scarcely any, each man takes it into his own hands. This is without any sort of doubt a dreadful state of society, and I do not by any means pretend to speak in its justification ; but if the causes of most of the murders committed and beat- ings given are enquired into, I have usually found that the receiver had only obtained what CHARACTER OF THE SERTANEJOS. 231 he deserved. Robbery in the Sertam is scarcely known ; the land is in favourable years too plen- tiful to afford temptation, and in seasons of dis- tress for food, every man is for the most part equally in want. Subsistence is to be obtained in an easier manner than by stealing in so abun- dant a country, and where both parties are equally brave and resolute ; but besides these reasons, I think the Sertanejos are a good race of people. They are tractable, and might easily be instruct- ed, excepting in religious matters ; in these they are fast rivetted ; and such was their idea of an Englishman and a heretic, that it was on some occasions difficult to make them believe that I, who had the figure of a human being, could possibly belong to that non-descript race. They are extremely ignorant, few of them possessing even the commonest rudiments of knowledge. Their religion is confined to the observance of certain forms and ceremonies, and to the fre- quent repetition of a few prayers, faith in charms, relics, and other things of the same order. The Sertanejos are courageous, generous, sincere, and hospitable : if a favour is begged, they know not how to deny it ; but if you trade with them either for cattle, or aught else, the character changes, and then they wish to outwit you, con- ceiving success to be a piece of cleverness of which they may boast. The following anecdote is characteristic. A d 4 ■ HrHHrHOH 232 ANECDOTE OF A SERTANEJO. Sertanejo came down from the interior with d large drove of cattle, which had been intrusted to him to sell; he obtained a purchaser, who was to pay him at the close of two or three months.. The Sertanejo waited to receive the money, as his home was too far distant to return for this pur- pose. Before the expiration of the term, the purchaser of the cattle found some means of having him imprisoned ; he went to him when he was in confinement, and pretending to be extremely sorry for his misfortune, hinted, that if he would allow him to appropriate part of the debt to the purpose, he would try to obtain his release ; to this the Sertanejo agreed, and consequently soon obtained his freedom. He heard soon afterwards how the whole of the business had been managed by the purchaser of the cattle, to avoid paying for what he had bought, and he could not obtain any part of the money. Having advised his employers in the Sertam of these circumstances, he received for answer, that the loss of the money was of little consequence, but that he must either assas- sinate the man who had injured him, or not return home ; because he should himself suffer if the insult remained unrevenged. The Ser- tanejo immediately made preparations for re- turning; he had always feigned great thank- fulness towards his debtor for obtaining his release, and a total ignorance of his unjustifiable ANECDOTE OF A SERTANEJO. 233 vouduct. On the day of his departure, he rode to the house of the man whom he had deter- mined to destroy, and dismounted, whilst one of his two companions held his horse ; he saw the owner of the house, and as he gave him the usual parting embrace, ran his long knife into his side ; he then quickly leapt on to his horse, and the three persons rode off. None dared to molest them, for they were well armed, and although this occurred in a large town, they soon joined a considerable number of their countrymen who waited for them in the out- skirts, and proceeded to their own country, without any attempt being made to apprehend them. These circumstances took place several years ago ; but the relatives of the man who was killed still bear in mind his death, and a determination of revenging it upon him who committed it, if he was again to place himself within their reach. Many persons can vouch for the truth of the story. The colour of the Sertanejos varies from white, of which there are necessarily few, to a dark brown ; the shades of which are almost as various as there are persons : two of exactly the same tint are scarcely to be met with. Children of the same parents rarely if ever are of the same shade ; some difference is almost always perceivable, and this is, in many instances, so glaring, as to lead at first to doubts of the au- 234- THE VAQUEIROS. thenticity; but it is too general to be aught but what is right. The offspring of white and black persons leans, in most instances, more to one colour than to the other, when perhaps a second child, will take a contrary tinge.* These remarks do not only hold good in the Sertam, but are applicable to all the country which I had opportunities of seeing. The Sertanejo, if colour is set aside, is certainly handsome j and the women, whilst young, have well-shaped forms, and many of them good features ; in- deed I have seen some of the white persons who would be admired in any country. Their constant exposure to the sun, and its great power at a distance from the sea, darkens the complexion more than if the same persons had resided upon the coast ; but this gives them a decided dark colour, which has the appearance of durability, and is much preferable to a sal- low sickly look, though of a lighter tint. The persons who reside upon and have the care of the cattle estates, are called Vaqueiros, which simply means cowherds. They have a share of the calves and foals that are reared upon the land, but of the lambs, pigs, goats, &c. no account is given to the owner; and * A mulatto woman once said to me, " The children of mulattos are like whelps, they are of all colours. Filho dc mulatto, he como Jilho de cachorro, hum mhc branco, outro par do e outro negro." COLLECTING THE CATTLE. 235 from the quantity of cattle, numbers are reckoned very loosely ; it is therefore a com- fortable and lucrative place, but the duties at- tending it are heavy, require considerable cou- rage, and great bodily strength and activity. Some of the owners live upon their estates ; but the major part of those through which I passed, were possessed by men of large property, who resided in the towns upon the coast, or who were at the same time sugar-planters. The interior of Pernambuco, Rio Grande, Paraiba, and Seara, contain^, properly speaking, no wild cattle. * Twice every year the herds- men from several estates assemble for the pur- pose of collecting the cattle. The cows are driven from all quarters into the area in front of the house, and here, surrounded by several horsemen, are put into spacious pens. This being done, the men dismount, and now their object is, if any of the cows are inclined to be unruly, which is often the case, to noose them by the horns so as to secure them ; or another mode is adopted, which is by noosing one of the * Dr. Manoel Arruda da Camara says, that before the dreadful drought of 1793, it was considered to be one of the duties of the herdsmen to destroy the wild rattle, that that which was already halt tamed might not be induced to mix with it, and by this means become wild ; and he adds, this is still the case in the Sertoens of Piauh.i. He published his pamphlets in 1810. c 236 collecting the cattle. hind-legs, and carrying the cord quite round the animal, so as to throw it down. The calves are then caught, and this is done without much difficulty ; they are marked on the right haunch with a red-hot iron, which is made of the shape that has been fixed upon by the owner as his peculiar mark. When the oxen are to be col- lected for a market, the service is more danger- ous, and frequently the rider is under the ne- c >sity of throwing the animal to the ground with his long pole, as I have in another place mentioned. On the man's approach, the ox runs off into the nearest wood, and the man fol- lows, as closely as he possibly can, that he may take advantage of the opening of the branches which is made by the beast, as these shortly close again, resuming their former situation. At times the ox passes under a low and thick branch of a large tree, then the man likewise passes under the branch, and that he may do this, he leans to the right side so completely, as to enable him to lay hold of the girth of his sad- dle with his left hand, and at the same time his left heel catches the flap of the saddle ; thus with the pole in his right hand, almost trailing upon the ground, he follows without slackening his pace, and being clear of this obstacle, again resumes his seat. If he can overtake the ox, he runs his goad into its side, and if this is dexte- MODE OF BREAKING HORSES. 237 rously done, he throws it. Then he dismounts, and ties the animal's legs together, or places one fore-leg over one of the horns, which se- cures it most effectually. Many blows are re- ceived by these men, but it is seldom that deaths are occasioned. In crossing the Seara-Meirim, I mentioned an instance of a cow having strayed to an immense distance from its native pasture. This propen- sity to ramble is common among horned cattle, even without its proceeding from a scarcity of grass or water. Often at the time of collecting the cattle, those persons who have been to a considerable distance to assist others, drive back a number of beasts with their own mark ; the estate to which they belonged being distant twenty leagues or more. When a traveller is in distress for water, he cannot do better than to follow the first cattle-path, as these usually lead to the nearest pool of water, in a direct line. The paths are easily distinguished, being very narrow, and the wood uniting above, leaving open below only a shady walk, of the height of the animals which made it. Each lot of mares with its master horse is driven into the pens ; this consists of. from fif- teen to twenty in number. The foals are like- wise marked in the same manner as the calves. It is worthy of remark, and the circumstance was often repeated to me, tnat the horse of the 238 MODE OF BREAKING HORSES. lot drives from it not only the colts but the fillies also, as soon as they are full grown. The fact was only qualified in two or three instances, when told to me, by the person who related it adding, that if the horse did not do so, he was taken from the lot, and broken for the pack- saddle, being considered of a bad breed. When a horse is to be tamed for any purpose what- soever, he is noosed, after being put into a pen, and is tied to a stake ; on the following day, or perhaps the same afternoon, if he appears at all tractable, a small low saddle is placed upon him, and a man then mounts with a double halter. The animal runs off with him, which the man, far from attempting to prevent, rather urges him to do ; though in general the whip and spur are not made use of, unless he is obstinate and refuses to go forwards. Horses of good breeds are said to be those most easily tamed. The horse runs until he becomes weary, and is then brought back quietly by its rider ; and per- haps they do not reach the rider's home until the following day. The man must not dis- mount until he has returned to the spot from whence he started, as he would probably expe- rience great difficulty when he wished again to proceed, from the restiveness of the horse. The same operation is continued as long as the animal is not supposed to be effectually broken in, and safe to mount. It happens on some BRAZILIAN HORSES. 239 occasions, that, by plunging, the horse gets rid of both man and saddle, and is not again seen for a length of time ; however, unless the girths give way, he has little chance of throwing his rider, for the Sertanejos are most excellent horsemen. The horses are small, and some of them are finely shaped, though little attention is paid to the improvement of the breed. Great stress is laid upon the colour, in the choice of these animals; some colours being accounted more demonstrative of strength than others. Thus a cream-coloured horse, with a tail and mane of the same colour, is rejected for the pack-saddle, or for any kind of severe labour ; and if horses of this description are sold for these purposes, the price is lower than that of an animal of an equally promising appearance in form and size, of any other tinge : they are much esteemed if well shaped, as saddle-horses, for short distances. A cream-coloured horse, with a black tail and mane, is reckoned strong. The horses that have one fore-leg white, and the other of the colour of the body, are supposed to be liable to stum- ble. The usual colours are bay and gray ; but chestnut, black, and cream-colour are less com- mon ; those most esteemed for work are dark bays, with black tails and manes, and grays dotted with small bay spots. Stallions are broken in both for the saddle and for carrying 240 BRAZILIAN SHEEP. loads in the neighbourhood of the towns ; but the Sertanejos, both from necessity and from their knowledge of their superior ability to per- form hard labour, make use of geldings. It is not always safe to ride a high-spirited horse in the Sertam, because when he begins to neigh, instances have occurred of some master-horse coming to give him battle, and as both are equally desirous of righting, the rider may per- haps find himself under the necessity of placing himself at a distance from the combatants. However, if he should chance to have a good stick in his hand, and can prevent his own horse from rearing as the wild horse approaches, he may come off in safety. Sheep are kept upon every estate for their flesh, when that of a more esteemed kind fails ; that is, either when the oxen are in a meagre state, owing to a long continuance of dry wea- ther ; or that the herdsman is too much occu- pied at home, or too lazy to go out and kill one. The mutton is never well-tasted, and though it is true that in the Sertam no care whatever is taken in rearing or feeding the sheep, still I do not think that this kind of meat is to be brought to any great perfection.* The lambs are covered * When I resided at Jaguaribe, and upon the island of Itamaraca, in the years 1813 and 1814, I took some pains in this matter; but the meat was not good, and though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavour than that of the same DIVISION OF PROPERTY. 241 with fine wool, and this continues until they are one year and a half or two years old ; but after this age, it begins to drop, and is replaced by a species of hair. Although the wool should re- main longer in some instances, it appeared to me that it was coarse and short. * A wound upon the body of this animal is more difficult to heal than upon that of any other, and the flesh of it is of all others the most rapid in its ad- vances to putrefaction. The division of property in the Sertam is very undeterminate, and this may be imagined, when I say, that the common mode of defining the species of animal in England, still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more unequal to the mutton of England, than is the case respecting the beef of the two countries. * Lieutenant-Colonel Joam da Silva Feijo, in a pamphlet published at Rio de Janeiro, in 1811, on the sheep of the province of Seara, says, " That the sheep of that part of the country bear wool which has all the marks of being of a superior quality ; that it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of a good length, and strong." He again says, " That the Governor," the same of whom I have spoken, " sent a small quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed." I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep at Seara, and his opinion must of course be taken in preference to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the same province ; however, I bought several as food, and their skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have above described. When I resided at Jaguaribe and Itama- raca, I possessed a considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak positively. VOL. I. R "?'•'/>■.'''. >%■:,' MO A RUNAWAY SLAVE. for this, being rather afraid of a return of the ague. Nearly at sun-set, or at the close of the day, which in that country are almost about the same time, the tame sheep was missing \ great search was made for it, but to no purpose. The old man ordered two of his sons to set out, and not to return until every enquiry had been made in the neighbourhood. I did all in my power to prevent giving this trouble, but he per- sisted, saying, " No, you are under my roof! and this unfortunate circumstance may lead you to have an unfavourable opinion of me." Long after dark the young men returned with the sheep and a mulatto man in custody. I wished the man to be released, but they said that this could not be, for he was a runaway slave who had committed many depredations, and for whose apprehension a considerable re- ward was offered by his master. They had fol- lowed the foot-steps of the sheep upon a sandy path as long as the day-light lasted, and then had taken a direction, which they thought might lead to some tnocambos, or huts of the wood, made by runaway slaves. After they had pro- ceeded a little way, the bleating of the sheep was heard, upon which they prepared them- selves, and came suddenly upon this fellow and a woman who were in a hut; the woman escaped, which they regretted, as she was likewise most probably a runaway slave. The man was taken ENGENHO NEAR MAMANGUAPE. ^251 into the house, and was tied fast upon a long bench with his face downwards, and the cord was passed round his arms and legs several times ; this was done in the room which I was to inhabit for the night. The whole of the family retired to rest, and left us together ; I had my knife with me, but naturally soon fell asleep. In the morning the bench and the cords remained, but the man was gone ; he had crept through a small window at the opposite end of the room. The young men of the house were sadly vexed, but I told them it was their own fault, for some of them should have kept watch, as they could not suppose that I should remain awake, who had come in fatigued from travelling. We were now afraid that he might have taken one of our horses for his more con- venient escape, but this was not the case. Our journey took us again through the village of Mamanguape ; and a little distance beyond it, I left the road, accompanied by the guide, and went to the principal house of a sugar-plant- ation, where we asked for a night's lodging. 1 was told that the master was not at home, and great doubts seemed to be entertained of taking us in. Whilst we were talking at the door, a young man of dark colour came up, mounted a horse which was standing there without a saddle, and rode off, seemingly avoiding to observe that there Were any strangers present. One of the 252 BITE OF A SNAKE. black women said, " Why did not you speak to him, for he is one of our young masters." I now enquired and discovered that the owner of the place and his family were mulattos. This was the only instance of incivility I met with, and the only occasion on which a night's lodging was denied to me during the whole course of my stay in Brazil. We lodged this night under a tree, distant about one hundred yards from the engenko, near to a neat and comfortable- looking cottage, of which the owner was an elderly woman ; she was civil to us, and ex- pressed her sorrow at the treatment which we had received. There had been very little rain here, for the grass in the field of the plantation had still a parched look, and the cattle were in bad condition. Towards the evening of the following day we reached a hamlet, and at one of the cottages I obtained permission to pass the night. There was a pent-house standing out from the front ; these are usual even for dwellings of wealthy persons. Under it I slung my hammock, but was surprised to find, that though the house was inhabited, still the door was shut, and that the person within spoke to us, but did not open it. This I thought strange, and began to sup- pose that he might be afflicted with some con- tagious disorder, and had been forsaken by his friends, or rather, that his family had been THE RIVER PARAIBA. 25S advised to remove to some neighbouring cottage. But the guide explained, saying that the man had been bitten by a snake, and that the bite of this species only became fatal if the man who had received it saw any female animal, and par- ticularly a woman, for thirty days after the misfortune. As the lower orders imagine that all snakes are poisonous, it is not surprising that many remedies or charms should be quoted as efficacious. It is well known that many of those reptiles are innoxious, but as this is not believed by the people in general, it is naturally to be supposed that any cause rather than the true one is ascribed on a recovery from a bite. On the morrow we left these good people in expectation of their friend's restoration to health at the allotted period, and proceeded to dine on the banks of the river Paraiba, at a spot which was not far distant from the plantation of Espirito Santo, where we had slept on our way northwards. The river was still as dry as it had been during the drought, that is, the pools or hollows in the bed of it had water in them, but they did not contain a sufficient quantity tp overflow, unite, and form a stream. We arrived upon the banks about ten o'clock, and heard from several persons of a report which had been spread, that the river was filling fast. About twelve o'clock the water made its appearance, and before we left it the river was three feet 2.54 THE RIVER PARAIBA. deep. We afterwards heard that the stream was not fordable at five o'clock of the same after- noon, and that it continued to run with great rapidity for some days. I went round to Espirito Santo and spoke to the capitam-mor, but did not dismount, as I was more and more anxious to end my journey. We slept at a single cottage about two leagues beyond, and on the following morning again set forth. About noon, for I had pushed on without resting until this hour, we were descending a long and steep hill, when a violent shower of rain came on, which soon caused a torrent to run with much noise and velocity through the gullies in the road. The clay of which the hill was composed was ren- dered excessively slippery, and far from pro- ceeding more quickly, the horses became more cautious ; and on these occasions it is needless to attempt to urge them forwards faster than they themselves are willing to go ; they are aware of the danger of a false step, and nothing the rider can do will make an old roadster alter his usual manner of proceeding. At the foot/of tjie hill stood a venda or liquor shop, at which travellers were in the habit of putting up. Most ot" the hamlets contain one of these places, and we had met with them much more frequently since we had entered upon the great cattle road. Wet as we were, through and through, it would have been impossible to go on further this day, RETURN TO GOIANA. 255 therefore we were thankful in having a house so near ; indeed, the rain continued during the greatest part of the afternoon. We had de- scended into a narrow and beautiful valley, much of which was covered with flourishing plantations of sugar-cane, looking very green and luxuriant. This was not the first night that I had seen the beautiful luminous insect, elaler noctilucus, which is called by the Portuguese cacqfogo. It is to be met with chiefly in well wooded lands, and emits at intervals a strong but short-lived light. After leaving this place the next morning, we discovered that we had lost some trifles belong- ing to our baggage. I sent the guide and another man back to seek for them ; but they returned unsuccessful. We had, it is true, sel- dom taken up our lodgings in public houses, but perhaps if we had done so oftener, I should have had more reason to complain ; however, as it is, this was the only occasion upon which I lost any part of my baggage, with a suspicion of theft attached to its disappearing. We rested at mid-day near Dous Rios, and in the afternoon passed through that place, arriving at Goiana about sun-set. It will be remembered that I purchased some of my horses at Goiana ; now on my return, two of the same animals were still with me, and this alone proves that they were of the best kind. When we were distant 5256 LEAVE GOIANA. from Goiana about one league, one of them made towards a narrow path to the right of the road, and was prevented by his driver from turn- ing up into it, but immediately after passing it, he began to flag, and in a few minutes I was under the necessity of having him released from his load, and of desiring one of the men to lead him, otherwise he would have turned back. He had from this time the appearance of being quite fatigued. I can only account for the circum- stance by supposing that the path led to his for- mer master's residence, and that the animal had proceeded thus far in expectation of ending his journey here. I was received by my friends at Goiana in their usual friendly manner ; but I found that the town was in a dreadful state from the scar- city of provisions. One person was said to have died of hunger, and I was told by an inhabitant that several respectable women had been at his house to beg for Jarinha, offering to pawn their gold ornaments for it. On the morning of the 1 5th February, I left .Goiana, and assisted my people in crossing the river. As soon as they were all safe on the Recife side of it, I pushed on accompanied by Julio and Feliciano, all three of us being mounted upon our best horses. We rested during the heat of the day at Iguaracu. My horse recog- nised the place, for as he entered the town, he ARRIVAL AT CRUZ DE ALMAS. on 25~ quickened his pace, and without being guided, went up to the door of the inn, from whence he refused to stir again until I dismounted. We arrived a little after sunset at the Cruz das Almas. John was prepared for me, but did not expect me for one or two days. The following morning I rode to Recife, and was received by my friends as one who had been somewhat despaired of; and even my particular friend to whom I had written, did not expect me so soon. When I returned home in the evening, the rest of the party had arrived ; and Feliciano and his two companions set off two days afterwards on their return to Seara.* Julio likewise left me, with which I was much dis- pleased, t * In the year 1812, I met Feliciano and one of the others, who was his brother-in-law, in one of the streets of Recife. They recollected trie, and I was stopped by both of them getting hold of my coat on each side. They asked me if I Avas going again to travel, for if I was, they said that they were unemployed, and would go with me. Their attack had so much the appearance of being more in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that one or two of my ac- quaintance who chanced to pass at the time, stopped and enquired what was the matter, supposing that I had got into some scrape. These fellows literally held me fast, until 1 had answered all their questions. Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavourable character which I have given of the Indians ; but unfortunately, individual instances prove very little. f I had imagined that he did not intend to return again into my service ; but on my second voyage to Pernambuco, VOL. I. S ■ I *5& JULIO S CHARACTER. 1 found him at the house of one of my friends, employed at a household servant, and I heard that he had come down to Recife two days after I had left the place, for the purpose of remaining with me ; hut as I was gone, he had entered into the service in which I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all the bad qualities of the Indians ; and if I was again to travel in that country, I should use every endeavour to have him in company. He belonged to Alhandra. ( $39 ) CHAP. IX. rOVAGE FROM PERNAMBUCO TO MAR AN HAM. — ST. LUIZ. — TRADE. — WILD INDIANS. — THE GOVERNOR. AL- CANTARA. THE AUTHOR SAILS FROM ST. LUIZ, AMD ARRIVES IN ENGLAND. X^IGHT days after my return from Seam, ar- rived a vessel from England, bringing let- ters which obliged me to leave Pernambuco and proceed to Maranham. As a cargo could not be obtained for the brig at the former place, the consignee determined to send her to Maran- ham, and being myself desirous of taking ad- vantage of the first opportunity, I prepared for the voyage, and sailed in the course of forty- eight hours. We weighed anchor on the 25th February, and had a prosperous passage of seven days. We were in sight of the land nearly the whole time, and occasionally, as the brig was small, and the master wished, if possible, to become acquainted with the points of land, we were very near to it. The Portuguese ships seldom come up this coast without a pilot, nor is it prudent to do otherwise ; but we could not ob- tain one without delay, to which the master ob- jected. He had scarcely ever before been out 260 ARRIVAL AT MARANHAM. of the British seas ; but their school is good, and now he found his way to Maranham with as much dexterity as an experienced pilot. This coast is generally known to be dangerous ; and the land has, for the most part, a dreary and dis- mal look, particularly after passing Rio Grande. We entered the bay of St. Marcos with the lead going, took the channel to the eastward of the baixo do meio or middle bank, passed the fort of St. Marcos, and came to an anchor opposite and very near to the sand-banks at the mouth of the harbour of St. Luiz. As no pilot came off to us, the master and myself got into the boat, intending to fetch one ; but, on coming oppo- site to the fort of St. Francisco, a gun without shot was fired, and the sentinel beckoned us back to the ship. We pulled for the fort, and when we approached it, an enormous speaking- trumpet was produced, and through itwe received orders not to proceed to the city. However, we landed at the fort, and I told the officer that the master was particularly desirous of having a pilot, as he was unacquainted with the bay or port; but it is well known that they contain many sand-banks. We were answered, that the pilot would come in due time ; and rinding re- monstrance of no avail, returned to the ship. When the pilot arrived, he was accompanied by a soldier and a custom-house officer. It was with some difficulty that I could persuade the PORT REGULATIONS. -261 master to allow the former to come into the ves- sel. Sailors and soldiers never very well agree, and the blunt Englishman said that he had no idea of his ship being taken from him by a fel- low in a party-coloured jacket. This was a new regulation. Indeed, in most of thos^regarding the port of Maranham, I could not avoid recol- lecting the old proverb of " Much cry," &c. As the brig came up the harbour, we received the health and custom-house visit. It was com- posed of several well-dressed men, some of whom wore cocked hats and swords ; and all of them ate much bread and cheese, and drank quan- tities of porter. The administrador of the cus- toms was among them, and was dressed in the uniform of a cavalry officer. I scarcely ever saw so much astonishment pictured in the coun- tenance of any man as in that of the master of the brig. He had been accustomed to enter our own ports, where so much business is done in so quiet a manner ; and he now said to me in half joke, half earnest, " Why it is not only one, but they are coming in shoals to take the ship from me.'* After all these personages, and all the trouble they had given us, I w r as still obliged to pass the night on board, because the guarda- mor, the officer especially appointed to prevent smuggling, had not made his visit. Fortunately, I found means of having the letters conveyed on shore, otherwise the vessel would have ar- s 3 Q&2 ST. LUIZ. rived four, and twenty hours before the merchant to. whom she was consigned could have obtained any information regarding her. To render the night still more agreeable, some heavy rain fell ; the deck was leaky, and about midnight I was "obliged to rise and look for a dry corner. The city of St. Luiz, situated upon the island of Maranham, and the metropolis of the estaclo, or state of Maranham, is the residence of a cap- tain-general and the see of a bishop. It is built upon very unequal ground, commencing from the water's edge, and extending to the distance of about one mile and a half in a N. E. direction. The space which it covers ought to contain many more inhabitants than is actually the case ; but the city is built in a straggling manner, and it comprises some broad streets and squares. This gives to it an airy appearance, which is particularly pleasant in so warm a climate. Its situation upon the western part of the island, and upon one side of a creek, almost excludes it from the sea-breeze, by which means the place is rendered less healthy than if it was more ex- posed. The population may be computed at about 12,000 persons or more, including ne- groes, of which the proportion is great, being much more considerable than at Pernambucy. The streets are mostly paved, but are out of re- pair. The houses are many of them neat and pretty, and of one story in height ; the lower ST. LUIZ. 263 part of them is appropriated to the servants, to shops without windows, to warehouses, and other purposes, as at Pernambuco. The family lives upon the upper story, and the windows of this reach down to the floor, and are ornamented with iron balconies. The churches are nume- rous, and there are likewise Franciscan, Carme- lite, and other convents. The places of worship are gaudily decorated in the inside ; but no plan of architecture is aimed at in the formation of the buildings themselves, with the exception of the convents, which preserve the regular features ap- pertaining to such edifices. The Governor's pa- lace stands upon rising ground, not far from the water-side, with the front towards the town. It is a long uniform stone building, of one story in height; the principal entrance is wide, but with- out a portico. The western end joins the town- hall and prison, which appear to be part of the same edifice ; and the oblong piece of ground in its front, covered with grass, gives to it on the whole a handsome and striking appearance. One end of this is open to the harbour and to a fort in the hollow, close to the water ; the other extremity is nearly closed by the cathedral. One side is al- most taken up with the palace and other public buildings, and the opposite space is occupied by dwelling-houses and streets leading down into other parts of the city. The ground upon which the whole place stands is composed of a soft red s 4 264 FORTS AND BARRACKS. stone; so that the smaller streets leading from the town into the country, some of which are not paved, are full of gullies, through which the water runs in the rainy season. These streets are formed of houses consisting only of the ground floor, and having thatched roofs ; the windows are without glass, and the dwellings have a most mean and shabby appearance. The city contains a custom-house and treasury ; the former is small, but was quite large enough for the business of the place, until lately. The harbour is formed by a creek in the island, and is to be entered from the Bay of St. Marcos. The channel is of sufficient deptli for common-sized merchant ships ; but is very narrow, and not to be entered without a pilot. Opposite to the town the water is shallow at the ebb. It is worthy of remark, that the tide rises gradually more and more along the coast of Brazil, from south to north. Thus at Rio de Janeiro the rise is said to be trifling; at Per- nambuco it is from five to six feet ; at Itamaraca, eight feet; and at Maranham, it is eighteen feet. The forts of Maranham are all of them said to be in bad order. I heard one person observe, half in earnest, that he did not suppose each fort contained more than four guns which were in a fit state to be fired. I did not see that of St. Marcos, which is situated at the entrance of the bay ; but it is reported to be in the same BAYS OF ST. MARCOS AND ST.JOZE. 265 state as the others. Those I saw are small, and built of stone. The soldiers were well dressed and well fed, and they looked respectable. The barracks are new and large comparatively speak- ing, and have been built in an airy situation, in the outskirts of the city. The garrison consists of one regiment of regular infantry, of about one thousand men when complete ; but these are much divided, being stationed in several forts. Recruits are formed of the lower orders of white persons, and of the people of colour. The men were never exercised with the artil- lery, and were merely accustomed to the com- mon routine of mounting guard, though a few detachments have on some occasions been sent on to the main land at the back of the island, to assist the planters against the wild Indians. The island of Maranham forms the S. E. side of the bay of St. Marcos, consequently this bay is to the westward of it. To the eastward of the island is the bay of St. Joze. From some similarity between the point of Itacolomi, by which vessels are in part guided when about to enter the Bay of St. Marcos, and another point of land upon the small island of St. Anna, which is at the entrance of the bay of St. Joze, in- stances have occurred of vessels mistaking the latter for the former, and entering the bay of St. Joze. This error causes great danger and inconvenience, because owing to the prevalence ^H 266 BAYS OF ST. MARCOS AND ST.JOZE. of easterly winds, it is next to impossible for a vessel to beat her way out of it. It is therefore necessary that she should go through the narrow channel between the main land and the island of Maranham, a passage of considerable dif- ficulty. * The bay of St. Marcos is spotted with * The information which is contained in this note I had from Captain Juan Roman Trivino, of the Spanish ship St. Joze, of 300 tons burden. He received orders to pro- ceed from Rio de Janeiro to Maranham, for the purpose of loading cotton, in the commencement of the year 1815. He arrived off the settlement of Seara, and sent on shore for a pilot to take him to St. Luiz ; he was informed that none resided at Seara, but that he would find one at Jeriquaquara, a high hill between Seara and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place, he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came on board, and offered to pilot him to St. Luiz. This was agreed to, and they proceeded ; but from mistaking the two points of land in the manner mentioned above, the Indian took the vessel into the bay of St. Joze, on the 15th March. They kept the lead going, even before they discovered the error into which they had been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound to St. Luiz. The ship was brought to an anchor oft' the village of St. Joze, which is situated upon the N. E. point of the island of Maranham, in eleven fathoms water. Whilst they continued in the mid-channel of the bay, they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of water regularly decreases from the centre of the bay towards the land on each side ; but it contains no insu- lated sand- banks. The ship was at anchor off the village of St. Joze two days ; they then proceeded through the chan- nel, which is enclosed on either side by mangroves, and is so narrow in some parts that the yards at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair, and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five to two and a half fathoms; the bot- 13 ITAPICURU. 267 several beautiful islands, and is of sufficient ex- tent to admit of considerable grandeur. The width from St. Luiz to the opposite shore is be- tween four and five leagues ; its length is much greater ; towards the south end there are several sand-banks, and the water is shallower. It re- ceives here the waters of a river, along the banks of which are situated several cattle -estates, but the river Itapicuru, which runs into the narrow channel between the main land and the island, enjoys the greatest share of cultivation ; its banks are extremely fertile, and upon them have been established the principal plantations torn was of mud. About half way through the channel, the tide from the bay of St. Joze and that from the bay of St. Marcos meet. This takes place nearly but not quite opposite to the mouth of the river Itapicuru. They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground at St. Joze to the island of Taua, which is situated near to the S. W. corner of the island of Maranham. Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms water, with a sandy bottom ; the captain sent to St. Luiz for another pilot, as the man who had brought them thus far was not acquainted with the re- mainder of the navigation. The island of Taua is rocky, and uninhabited, and is covered with palm-trees. The vil- lage of St. Joze appeared to Captain Trivino to be of con- siderable size, but, with the exception of two or three, the houses were built of slight timber and of the leaves of dif- ferent species of palm-trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen. He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there. Captain Trivino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicuru is at its mouth 120 yards wide, and that its depth is one fathom and a half. 268 ITAPICURU, of cotton and rice, which are the two chief and almost only articles of commerce from the city of St. Luiz. The island is in itself very little cultivated. There is no considerable plantation upon it. A few of the rich merchants residing in the city have country-houses distant from it about one league, but the remainder of the lands are left untouched, owing, as is said, to the unfitness of the soil for the purposes of agricul- ture. * There is a horse-path through the island to a house which stands immediately opposite * Joam IV. sent over one Bartholomew Barreiros de Ataide with three miners, one a Venetian and the other two French, to search for gold and silver. After two years" search up the Amazons they returned to Maranham, and offered to supply the people with iron at a cruzado, about 2s. 4d., per quintal, 128 lbs. weight, if the state would engage to take all that they should produce at that price. The people were afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was so rich in this ore that foreign cosmographers called it the ilha do Jerro in their maps, and all who came there with any knowledge of the subject said that it was ore of the best quality. A thing of great importance to Portu- gal, which bought all its iron, and yet this discovery was neglected, — From a Memoir of Manoel Guedes" Aranha, Piocurador from Maranham, 1685, in the 6th Vol. Finlieiro Collection of MSS. in the possession of Mr. Southey. A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the captaincy of St. Paulo, called " The Royal Fabric of S.Joam do Ypanema." I obtained a knowledge of the fact from two letters in Nos. 45 and 56 of the Investigador Portuguez, a periodical publication published in London. I am sorry to say, that the two letters to which I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the directors of the Fabric, ST. LUIZ. 269 to the mouth of the river Itapicuru ; at this is stationed a canoe, for the purpose of conveying people from one shore to the other. Another horse-path also leads to the village and chapel of St.Joze. The importance of the province has increased very rapidly. Previous to the last sixty years no cotton was exported, and I heard that when the first parcel was about to be shipped, a pe- tition was made by several of the inhabitants to the Camara or municipality, requesting that the exportation might not be permitted, for other- wise they feared that there would be a w r ant of the article for the consumption of the country ; this of course was not attended to, and now the number of bags exported annually is between forty and fifty thousand, averaging about 180lbs. weight each. * The quantity of rice grown * I have just in time received the following statement of the exportation of cotton from Maranham, from the year 1809 to 1815: Vessels. 1809. To Great Britain in 51 - To other parts - - 29 1810. To Great Britain - 37 To other parts - - 19 1811. To Great Britain - 36 To other parts - - 19 1812. To Great Britain - 29 To other parts - - 29 1813. To Great Britain - 35 To other parts - - 27 Bags. - 55,835 - 21,006 - 40,684- - 11,793 - 48,705 - 6,053 - 35,767 - 4,803 - 50,072 - 10,101 270 ST. LUIZ. there is likewise great*; but the sugar which is required for the consumption of the province is brought from the ports to the southward. Some sugar-cane has lately been planted, but hitherto molasses only have been made. I heard many persons say, that the lands are not adapted to the growth of the sugar-cane, t The cotton and rice are brought to St. Luiz in barks of about 25 or 30 tons burden. These come down the rivers with the stream from the plan- tations ; their return is not however so easy, as they are obliged to be rowed or warped, but being then empty, or nearly so, the difficulty is not very great. Considerable quantities of manufactured goods have been sent out from Great Britain since the opening of the trade, as has been done to the othter principal ports upon the coast ; but a ready sale has not been found for them here to any great amount. The province of Maranham Vessels. Baes. 22 - - - - 31,205 34 - - - - 14,436 32 - - - - 28,539 49 - - - - 22,216 1814. To Great Britain To other parts - 1815. To Great Britain To other parts - * A person of the name of Belfort first planted rice at Maranham, arid some of his descendants now reside there in opulence. f " There were five sugar works or engines, as they arc called, at Itapicuru, which compounded for 5000 arrohas of their produce. On the island there were six engines in full employ, 1641." — History of Brazil, vol. ii. p.9. ST. LUIZ. 271 will not bear comparison with that of Pernam- buco. It is still in an infant state ; there still exist wild Indians, and the plantations upon the main land are still in danger from their at- tacks. The proportion of free persons is much smaller ; the slaves very much preponderate, but this class can of necessity use but little of what is in any degree expensive, of what in such a climate is mere luxury. There exists at. St. Luiz a great inequality of ranks; the chief riches of the place are in the hands of a few men who possess landed property to a great ex- tent, numerous gangs of slaves, and are also merchants. The wealth of these persons and the characters of some of the individuals who enjoy it, have raised them to great weight and consequence, and indeed one Governor knows to his cost that without their concurrence it was useless to attempt the introduction of the innovations proposed, and impossible to trample long upon the rest of the community. But the great inequality of rank bespeaks the advance- ment of this place to have been less rapid than that of other settlements further south, where the society is more amalgamated, and property more divided. As a port of trade with Europe, St. Luiz may be accounted the fourth establish- ment upon the coast of Brazil in point of import- ance, giving precedence to Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, and Pernambuco. -272 WILD INDIANS. The wild Indians have occasionally crossed from the main land to the island, and have committed depredations upon the houses and gardens in the neighbourhood of St. Luiz. Some of these people have been at different times made prisoners and brought to the town, where very little pains, I fear, have been taken to con- ciliate them. I did not see any of them, but they were represented to me as most frightful beings ; their features are excessively ugly, and their hair is black and preposterously long, both before and behind. They are of a dark copper colour, darker than Indians that have been domesticated. The last individuals taken, to the number of four or five, were brought into the town quite naked, were put into close con- finement, and I was informed that there they died. I could not find out that any attempt had been made to send them back as mediators, or that any plan of conciliation had been enter- ed into - f and on mentioning something of this kind, I was in more than one instance told that it would be of no use, that rigour was the only method. I do not think that this is the general opinion regarding them, but I much apprehend that but faint hopes can be entertained of any zeal being shown for their civilisation. There are now no enthusiastic missionaries ; the Jesuits no longer exist in that country, and the other orders of friars have become lazy and worse GOVERNOR OF MARANILUf. 273 than useless. However the Indians cannot be enslaved ; therefore, at least, they are not hunted down like wild cattle, as formerly was the practice. The name which is given gene- rally both here and at Pernambuco to all wild Indians, is Tapuya ; and that of Caboclo is ap- plied to those who have been domesticated. Having thus given an outline of the place at which I had arrived, I may now leave my quar- ters on board the brig and be allowed to land, which I accomplished on the morning subse- quent to that of our entrance into the harbour. I was received upon the quay by my friend, a young Portuguese with whom I had been inti- mate in England and at Pernambuco. He told me it was necessary to go to the palace, for the purpose of presenting my passport, as the regula- tions of the port had for some time been most strictly followed, and several indeed had been lately added. I then, for the first time, recollected that I had no passport, having forgotten to obtain one, owing to the haste with which I left Pernam- buco. This produced a demur, as my friend was afraid that I should be imprisoned, the Governor not being friendly to Englishmen -, however I de- termined to call myself the supercargo of the brig. We proceeded to the palace, the entrance to which was guarded by two sentinels, and we passed several others in going up the stairs into the anti chamber, where we were received by a vol. 1. t 274 GOVERNOR OF MARANIIAM. genrtlemanlike officer, who heard what I had to say, asked no questions, and soon dismissed us. I thought I had seen the great man himself, but was undeceived, and heard that he seldom honoured any one with an audience. The officer to whom we had spoken was the lieu- tenant-colonel of the regiment of regular infan- try. The guard at the palace consisted of one company; the muskets were piled in front of the chief entrance, and appeared to be in good order. I soon discovered that St. Luiz was ruled with most despotic sway ; the people were afraid of speaking, as no man knew how soon it might be his fate to be arrested, from some trifling expression which he might allow to escape him. The Governor was so tenacious of the honours due to his situation, that he required every person who crossed the area in front of the palace to remain uncovered until he had entirely passed the whole biulding. Not that the Governor was himself always in view, but this adoration was thought necessary even to the building within which he dwelt. The distinction, until then reserved by the Romish church for its highest dignitaries, was however not thought by His Excellency too exalted for himself; the bells of the cathedral rang every time he went out in his carriage. Persons, even of the first rank in the place, were to stop, if in their carriages or on horseback, when they met GOVERNOR OF MARANHAM. 275 him, and were to allow him to pass before they were again to move forwards. I was introduced to several of the first mer- chants and planters, and particularly to the Colonels Joze Gon9alvez da Silva and Simplicio Dias da Silva ; the latter is the sub-governor of Parnaiba, a small port situated about three de- grees to the eastward of St. Luiz. They are both of them men of great wealth and of inde- pendent spirit. The former is an elderly man who has made a large fortune in trade, and latterly has increased it in planting cotton. He possesses between 1000 and 1500 slaves. On one occasion the mulatto driver of his carriage, though ordered by his master to stop, that the Governor might pass, refused so to do. The fol- lowing day an officer came to the old gentle- man's house with orders to arrest the man. The colonel sent for him and said, " Go, and I'll take care of you ;" adding to the officer, " tell His Excellency I have still several other drivers." To the surprise of every person about the pri- son, two servants made their appearance in the evening with a tray, covered with a cloth which was handsomely embroidered, and rilled with the best kinds of victuals ; sweatmeats, &c. were not forgotten. All this was for the driver, and was repeated three times every day until the man received an order for his release. The Colonel Simplicio had been sent for by T 2 276 GOVERNOR OF MARANHAM. the Governor to St. Luiz. Had it not been for the circumstances in which he was placed, I should have gone down to his residence at Par- naiba ; he has there a most noble establishment, part of which consists of a band of musicians, who are his own slaves ; some of them have been instructed at Lisbon and at Rio de Janeiro. It is through such men as these that improvements are to be expected. I likewise became acquaint- ed with a gentleman who had been imprisoned for a trifling breach of some new port-regula- tion. Any of his friends were allowed free ingress to see him, and I passed some pleasant evenings with him and other persons who were in the habit of assembling there ; he was allow- ed two small rooms in the prison, and was con- fined in this manner for several months. The Ouvidor of the province was also suspended from exercising the functions of his office, was removed from St. Luiz, and imprisoned in one of the forts. The Jtiiz de Fora, the second judicial officer, performed for the time the du- ties of the situation ; he was a Brazilian, and a man of independent character, who spoke and acted freely, notwithstanding the ostensible place he held, and the danger of it under such a government. The master of an English mer- chant-ship, I was told, had been arrested for some breach of port-regulation, and was con- fined in a miserable dungeon for three days, i ■ I fly-fty 'iV:-'-^- •, *.»a* ■><;'•< ,v\vy--' /■:>.- FISHERMEN. 277 hoard many more stories of the same nature ; but these will, I think, suffice to show the state of the city of St.Luiz at the time and just before I visited that place. The Governor was a very young man, and a member of one of the first noble families of Por- tugal.* There are few situations in which it is so greatly in a man's power to be much beloved or much disliked as that of governor of a pro- vince in Brazil ; in which a man may be either the benefactor or the scourge of the people over whom he is sent to rule. My friend's residence, in which I staid during my visit to Maranham, was situated by the wa- ter-side, and almost within hail of the ships at anchor in the harbour. I was amused sometimes at the rapidity with which the fishermen paddled their canoes ; these are long, and of just width sufficient to allow of two men sitting abreast. I have seen in one of them as many as sixteen men in two rows, with each a paddle, which they move with quickness and great regularity. The last men upon the bench steer the canoe when necessary, placing the paddle so as to answer the purpose of a rudder ; one or other of the two men steering, according to the direction which the vessel is to take. These fellows are mostly * He has been removed, was ordered to Lisbon, and ul- timately, on his return to Rio de Janeiro, was refused admit- tance, for a short time, to the Prince Regent. T 3 278 HORSES OF ST. LUIZ. dark-coloured mulattos and blacks, and are en- tirely naked excepting the hats which they wear upon their heads ; but when they come on shore, they partially clothe themselves. The print will give some idea of the strange appearance which they make. The nakedness of the negro slaves is also not sufficiently concealed ; neither males nor females have any covering from the waist upwards, excepting on Sundays and holidays. Though the climate may not require any more clothing, decency certainly does. I speak here of slaves who are at work in the streets, for the household servants are at least tolerably covered, and some of them are neatly and even gaudily dressed. At Pernambuco, the slaves are always decently clothed. The criminals who are to be seen chained together, as at Pernambuco, are here more numerous ; and in walking the streets, the clanking of the chains is continually striking the ear, reminding every man of the state of the government under which he resides. Such is the power of a governor, that a respectable person might be sentenced to this dreadful punishment, at least until redress could be obtained from the seat of the supreme government at Rio de Ja- neiro, a period of four months or more inter- vening. I brought with mc the horse which had carried me as far as Rio Grande on my journey to Seara, and took several rides in the neigh- AN ANECDOTE. 279 bourhood of the city, with an English gentleman who was residing there. The roads are ex- tremely bad, even in the immediate vicinity of St. Luiz, and our usual practice was to ride se- veral times round the open piece of ground upon which the barracks stand. Maranham is again in this respect far behind the place I had lately left ; the number of country-houses is small ; the paths are few, and no care is taken of them. Notwithstanding this, several persons have car- riages, which are of a form similar to those used in Lisbon, and not unlike the cabriolets drawn by a pair of horses, which are to be seen in France and Flanders. The horses that may be purchased at St. Luiz are small, and few of them are well formed. Grass is scarce, and the in- ducements to take exercise on horseback are so few, that the number of these animals upon the island is not considerable ; this, too, may be one cause why fine horses are not to be met with there ; for if a ready sale was found for the beasts of this description, some would, doubt- less, be carried from Piauhi to Maranham, which might be done with almost as little difficulty as is experienced in conveying many of them from the interior of Pernambuco to Recife. An English gentleman with whom I was ac- quainted, arrived at Maranham, a short time after the opening of the trade to British ship- ping j he was riding in the vicinity of the city t 4 280 BOOKS. one afternoon, when he was accosted by an old woman, who said that she had heard of the ar- rival of an Englishman, and wished to know if it was true, as she was going to St. Luiz, and much desired to see this bicho or animal. After some further conversation upon the subject, he told her that the bicho she was speaking to, was the Englishman himself. Of the truth of this, some difficulty was found in persuading her; but when she was confident that it was so, she cried out, " Ai tarn bonito," O, how handsome. She expected to have been shown some horridly ugly beast, which it was dangerous to approach, and was consequently agreeably surprised to find that she was mistaken, and to see flesh and blood in human form, handsomely put together. I nearly lost a number of books which I had brought with me ; the box containing them was carried to the custom-house ; they were taken out, and I was desired to translate each title-page, which I did. Though the works were chiefly historical, still I found that the officer who looked over them, was not inclined to let me have them, and a hint was given to me by one of my acquaintance, that they might be considered as irrecoverable; however I made immediately a petition to the Governor, to be allowed to send them on board again ; this was granted, and thus I regained possession. If I had delayed, I am almost certain that I should io ALCANTARA. 281 not have seen them again. Such are the diffi- culties which are experienced with books in the parts of Brazil which I visited, that the only re- source which remains is that of smuggling them into the country.* I hope, however, that the enlightened minister who is now at the head of affairs, at Rio de Janeiro, will put an end to this dreadful bar to improvement. I brought a letter from one of my acquaint- ance at Pernambuco to a gentleman who resided at Alcantara, a town on the opposite side of the bay of St. Marcos. My friend at St. Luiz, another young Portuguese, and myself, accompanied by two servants, agreed to hire a vessel and go over, for the purpose of making him a visit, and of seeing the place. We hired a small bark, and set sail one morning early, with a fair but light wind. The beauties of the bay are only to be seen in crossing it ; the number of islands diver- sify the view every five minutes, from the dis- covery of some hidden point, or from a change * It is not perhaps generally known, that there are pub- lished in London three or four Portuguese periodical works. One of them is prohibited in Brazil, and 1 have heard it said, that all of them are so situated ; but they are principally in- tended for Brazilian readers, and they find their way all over the country, notwithstanding the prohibition. I have seen them in the hands of civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers, and have heard them publicly spoken of by them. It is said that the Regent reads them, and is occasionally pleased with their invectives against some of the men in power. v -v-v.-j 282 ALCANTARA. in the form of the land, owing to the progress o4 the boat. The entrance into the harbour of Alcantara, the town itself, and the size of the vessel in which we were, reminded me much of the models of these realities. The place, the port, and our boat were all small, and of pro- portionate dimensions, having much the appear- ance of play-things. It was not like a small vessel entering a large harbour ; for in our case, as there was but little water upon the bar, as much pilotage was necessary as with a large ship in coming to anchor at St. Luiz. We were about five hours in reaching the end of our voyage. The boatmen obtained for us a small cottage, near to the beach ; we intended to be inde- pendent, and have our victuals cooked by our own servants ; but soon after we were settled in our new habitation, the gentleman introduced himself to whom we were furnished with a letter. He said that he had heard of our arrival, and he insisted upon our removal to his house. The town is built upon a semi-circular hill, and at first sight from the port is very pretty : but it falls short of its promise on a nearer ex- amination. The houses are many of them of one story in height, and are built of stone ; but the major part have only the ground floor. It ex- tends back to some distance in a straggling man- ner, with gardens, and large spaces between each house ; and many of the habitations in that FRANCISCAN FRIAR. 2S3 situation are thatched, and some of them are out of repair. As the hill which rises from the water-side is not high, and the land beyond ra- ther declines in a contrary direction, the meaner part of the town is not seen at the first view. Alcantara is however a thriving place, and its importance increases rapidly as the lands in the neighbourhood are in request for cotton plant- ations. A handsome stone quay was building upon the inside of a neck of land, round which the harbour extends for small craft. The place contains a town-hall and prison, and several churches. The evening we passed with our new friend and his partner, both of whom wei'e pleasant men. The latter took us to a neighbouring church, to hear a famous preacher, and to see all the fashion and beauty of the place. It was much crowded, and therefore we saw little or nothing of the congregation ; but the preacher, a large handsome Franciscan friar, with a fine toned and clear voice, delivered a very florid discourse, with much energy and ani- mation. This man and one other were the only persons of those I heard preach in Brazil, who deviated from the common praises usually given to the Virgin and to the Saints. It was a good practical sermon, inculcating moral duties ; but by way of conformity to established custom, he now and then mentioned the worthy in whose 284 REBELLIOUS SLAVES. honour the festival was given. * The next day was agreeably passed in conversation ; and in the evening two guitars were introduced, and some of the young men of the place came in, and added to the amusement of the party ; they sang and played, and there was much sport. There was no ceremony ; but the behaviour of these people was gentlemanly, and their conversation entertaining. I heard here of a certain estate, of which the slaves were numerous, but they had become re- bellious ; more than one steward had been killed by them, and for some time they remained with- out any person to direct them, but still they did not leave the place. When things had gone on in this manner for some time, a native of Portu- gal presented himself to the proprietor of the estate, and offered to take charge of it if he would allow him a salary of one conto of reis> about 250/. annually (which is an enormous stipend) ; and if he would sign an agreement by which he should not become responsible for any slaves who might be killed in reducing the re- mainder to obedience. To all this no objection was made ; and the man set off, accompanied by two other persons, his friends, and a guide, all of * About twelve months afterwards, I had an opportunity of being personally known to this man, and found him to be very superior to any individual of his or any other order ot friars with whom I have been acquainted. RETURN FROM ALCANTARA. 28.^ them being well provided with fire-arms and ammunition. They arrived upon the scene of action one evening, and finding the door of the principal house open, took up their lodgings in it. In the morning, several of the negroes, on discovering the intentions of the persons who were in possession of the house, assembled in the area in front of it, but at some little distance. The new steward soon came to the door un- armed, not permitting his companions to appear, and called to one of the ring-leaders by name, as if nothing was amiss. The man answered and came out of the groupe, but said that he would not approach any nearer than the spot to which he had advanced. The steward made no reply, but quickly took a loaded musket, which stood immediately within the door, fired, and brought the man to the ground, and without delay called to another of the slaves also by name. No an- swer being given, his companions came forwards, and all of them fired in among the slaves. Such was the effect of this summary manner of pro- ceeding, that in two or three days all was quiet, and went on smoothly as had formerly been the case; a few only of the slaves absconding. On our return from Alcantara we had a dis- agreeable passage, as the wind blew hard and some heavy rain fell, which made us apprehensive of not being able to fetch the harbour of St. Luiz. Our vessel had no cabin, but she was decked, 286 SOCIETY AT ST. LUIZ. and therefore as a matter of necessity we crept into the hold, in which we could not stand up- right, and the bilge water occasionally reached our feet; but this produced much laughter, and we ultimately arrived in safety. Not far from the mouth of the port of Alcantara stands an island of three miles in length and about one in breadth, called the Ilha do Lhramento ; it is inhabited by one man and woman, who have under their care a chapel dedicated to our Lady of Deliverance, which is visited by the inhabitants of the neigh- bouring shores, once every year for the purpose of celebrating by a festival this Invocation of the Virgin. My departure from Maranham soonei than I had purposed at first, prevented the ful- filment of my intention of landing and spending a day upon this spot. I know not what idea I might have formed of the island if I had more narrowly examined it, but the view I had of it at a distance was extremely beautiful. From what I heard of it, I think, that if any one was about to settle at Maranham, here it is that he should try to fix his residence. I was introduced by my friend to a respectable family of St. Luiz. We made them a visit one evening without invitation as is the custom, and were ushered into a tolerably sized room, fur- nished with a large bed, and three handsomely worked hammocks, which were slung across in different directions ; there were likewise in the SOCIETY AT ST. LUIZ. 287 apartment a chest of drawers and several chairs. The mistress of the house, an elderly lady, was seated in a hammock, and a female visitor in an- other, but her two daughters and some male rela- tions sat upon chairs. The company, which consist- ed of two or three men besides ourselves, formed a semicircle towards the hammocks. There was much ceremony, and the conversation was carried on chiefly by the men, and anoccasional remark was made by one or other of the old ladies. An answer was given by the daughters to a question asked, but no more, and some of the subjects touched upon would not have been tolerated in mixed society in England. A part of the formality might perhaps have worn off on further acquain- tance. The education however of women is not attended to, which of necessity curtails the pos- sibility of their entering into conversation upon many subjects, even if so to do was accounted proper. Still the ladies of St. Luiz cannot be said to be generally thus reserved, for gaming among both sexes is much practised, and is car- ried to great excess. A young lady in one in- stance, when going out with her mother to some evening company, passed through the apartment in which her father was at play with several of his acquaintance. He spoke to his daughter, asking her to take a card, which she did. She went on playing until she had lost three hundred mil rets, about 80/., and then said she had no more money. A fresh supply was afforded to ass MERCHANTS. her, and she accompanied her mother to theii party, where most probably play was likewise the entertainment of the evening. Dancing is an amusement much too violent for the climate, and is only resorted to on some grand occasion. The love of gaming may be easily accounted for where there is little or no taste for reading, and great sums of money are amassed without any means of expending them. Living is cheap ; a fine house, a carriage, and a number of servants may be had for a small sum. The opening of the trade has however given to these people a new turn of expenditure, in the facility oi' ob- taining articles of dress and furniture. Two English merchants only were established at St. Luiz ; the commercial transactions of British houses of trade were intrusted chiefly to Portuguese merchants of the place. * Many of these were accustomed to little cferemony, and walked the streets in short jackets, some of them were without neckcloths and a few without stockings ; but others dressed according to the manner of persons in Europe. It was with much difficulty that I could persuade the generality of those with whom I conversed that I had no business to transact ; they could not comprehend the motive by which a man could be actuated who was putting himself, by travelling, to certain inconveniences for the sake of amusement ; in- deed many persons would not be convinced, and * A British consul has since been appointed to Maranham. ANECDOTE OF A MULATTO SLAVE. 289 thought that in so saying I had some sinister views. I had not many opportunities of gaining in- formation respecting the interior, but still I will mention what I heard. The banks of the river Itapicuru, of which I have already spoken, though they are much cultivated compared to what they were a few years ago, are yet very wild, and there is space incalculable for new colonists. The captaincy of Piauhi and the in- terior of the State of Maranham abound in cattle, and these parts of the country are not subject to droughts. The town of Aldeas Altas *, which is situated in the latter, and the city of Oeiras in the former and further inland, are said to be flourishing places. Great numbers of cattle are annually driven from these quarters of the Ser- tam to Bahia and Pernambuco. The proprietors of the estates which are situated in districts so far removed from the seat of government are at times unruly, and a party of soldiers, which was sent up to arrest one of these men, some time before I arrived at St. Luiz, returned without effecting its purpose. Among other anecdotes, I heard of a mulatto slave who ran away from his master, and in the * An ouvidor has been appointed to Aldeas Altas, and Piauhi has been raised to the rank of an independent pro- vincial government. These arc improvements which show that regular government i* gaining ground. VOL. J. U 290 RETURN TO ENGLAND. course of years had become a wealthy man, by the purchase of lands which were overrun with cattle. He had, on one occasion, collected in pens great numbers of oxen which he was ar- ranging with his herdsmen to dispatch to dif- ferent parts for sale, when a stranger who came quite alone made his appearance, and rode up and spoke to him, saying that he wished to have some private conversation with him. After a little time they retired together, and when they were alone the owner of the estate said, " I thank you for not mentioning the connection between us, whilst my people were present." It was his master, who had fallen into distressed circumstances, and had now made this visit in hopes of obtaining some trifle from him. He said that he should be grateful lor any thing his slave chose to give to him. To reclaim him, he well knew, was out of the question — he was in the man's power, who might order him to be assassinated immediately. The slave gave his master several hundred oxen, and directed some of his men to accompany him with them to a market, giving out among his herdsmen that he had thus paid a debt of old standing for which he had only now been called upon. A man who could act in this manner well deserved the free- dom which he had resolved to obtain. As it was my intention to pass the ensuing summer in England, and no ships arrived from RETURN TO ENGLAND. 291 thence, I was afraid of being delayed some months for a conveyance, therefore I thought it better to take my passage in one of the ships which were about to sail. I preferred the Brutus, as I was intimate with the supercargo, a young Portuguese. We set sail from St. Luiz on the 8th of April, in company of another British ship ; but we were soon out of sight of each other, owing to one vessel holding a better wind. On the 18th we reached variable winds, in lat. 22° N. Ion. 50° W. It is not usual to find them so far to the southwards, therefore we might consider ourselves remarkably fortunate. We passed our time pleasantly, as the weather was fine and the wind favourable. On the 7th of May, the wind freshened, but we had a good ship and plenty of sea-room. A wave struck the stern and entered the cabin on the 8th in the morning, setting every thing afloat ; this oc- curred soon after we had risen. On the 9th we discovered two vessels at a great distance a-head and rather to windward, both of them were laying to, but soon each appeared to stand on different tacks. One proved to be an English brig loaded with timber ; she was water-logged and about to sink, and the latter was an American ship, which had lain-to, and was in the act of assisting the people in leaving her. If the brig had not been loaded with timber she must have gone down long before. As the American ship was bound u l Z 292 RETURN TO ENGLAND. to her own country, we took the crew on board the Brutus, nine persons; they were in most woeful plight ; some lame, others nearly naked, and all of them half starved with cold and hunger. The vessel had sprung a leak, which increased so rapidly, as to oblige them to retreat from the deck into the foretop, where they had been for three days and two nights, almost destitute of provisions. We arrived safe off Falmouth on the 20th of May. Here the supercargo and myself landed, and proceeded to London. ( 298 ) CHAP. X. THE AUTHOR SETS SAIL FROM GRAVESEND, AND ARRIVES AT PERNAMBUCO. — STATE OF RECIFE. — JOURNEY TO BOM JARDIM WITH A CAPITAM-MOR, AND RETURN TO RECIFE. A T the commencement of the winter my friends again recommended a return to a more temperate climate than that of England ; and therefore understanding that the Portuguese ship Serra Pequeno was upon the point of sailing, I took my passage in her. She was lying at Gravesend, and on the 4th of October, 1811, I embarked again for Pernambuco. Contrary winds detained the ship at Ports- mouth for about six weeks. On the 20th No- vember, the wind came round to the northward and eastward, and the signal guns from the ships of war, appointed as convoys, awakened us. All was bustle and confusion at Covves, where great numbers of persons, belonging to the ships, who were circumstanced as we were, had stationed themselves. In a few hours the vessels were under weigh, and before the night closed in, all of them had cleared the Needles. The Serra Pequeno and other Portuguese ships had taken u 3 294 VOYAGE TO PERNAMBUCO. instructions from a frigate, which was bound to the Mediterranean, intending to keep company with her as far as her destination and their's obliged them to follow the same course ; but in the morning we discovered that we were with another frigate, which was bound to Lisbon. We soon left her, and were accompanied by other two Portuguese ships. On the night of the 22d, we fell in with the Kangaroo sloop of war, which was bound to the coast of Africa, with a few vessels under convoy. On the 24th we parted from this convoy, and on the 26th proceeded with only one Portuguese ship. Our passage was most prosperous; we had no bois- terous weather, and few calms. On the 3d De- cember, we fell in with the Arethusa frigate, when in sight of the Canary islands. The cap- tain of the Serra was obliged to take the papers of his ship on board the frigate. The regulations regarding the slave-trade, which is carried on by the Portuguese, perhaps occasioned more en- quiry than would otherwise have been deemed necessary. We crossed the line on the 22d. In the evening of the 26th we stood for the land, supposing that we had reached the latitude of our port, but that we were much to the east- ward of it ; however, we made the land about two o'clock in the morning, which was sooner by several hours than the officers of the ship imagined we should. This frequently occurs on ARRIVAL AT PERNAMBUCO. 295 board of those vessels which do not carry chro- nometers ; the calculation of longitude without their assistance being of course rendered ex- tremely liable to error. At day-break, it was discovered that we were somewhat to the north- ward of Olinda. We entered the port about nine o'clock, and came to anchor in the lower harbour called the Poco. The Serra Pequeno is one of the heavy deep- waisted Brazil ships, requiring a great number of hands to manage her. The business of the ship was carried on in a manner similar in almost all points to that which is practised on board of British merchant-vessels ; there was however less cleanliness observed, and more noise was made. The second officer, who is called in the British merchant-service the mate, bears in Por- tuguese vessels that of pilot ; and the regula- tions of their marine confine him to the naviga- tion of the ship, giving up to an inferior officer the duty of attending to the discharging or stowage of the hold when loading or unloading, and all other minutise of the affairs either at sea or in a harbour. I was received on shore by all those persons with whom I had before had the pleasure of being acquainted, with the same friendliness which I always experienced at Pernambuco. Se- veral English gentlemen offered me an apartment m their houses, until I obtained one of my own. u 4< 296 STATE OF RECIFE. I accepted the ofter which was made to me by him through whose great kindness my health had been so much benefited, after the severe at- tack of fever which I had suffered in the preced- ing year. The first few weeks were passed in visits to my friends and acquaintance, with some of whom I occasionally staid a few days in the neighbourhood of the town, which was now much deserted, according to the usual custom, at this season of the year. I perceived a considerable difference in the appearance of Recife and of its inhabitants, al- though I had been absent from the place for so short a period. Several houses had been altered; the heavy sombre lattice-work had given place, in many instances, to glass windows and iron balconies. Some few families had arrived here from Lisbon, and three from England ; the ladies of the former had shown the example of walking to mass in broad day -light ; and those of the latter were in the habit of going out to walk towards the close of the day, for amusement. These improvements being once introduced and practised by a few persons, were soon adopted by some, who had been afraid to be the first, and by others who found that they were pleasant. Formal silks and satins, too, were becoming a less usual dress on high days and holidays, and were now much superseded by white and coloured muslins, and other cotton manufactures. The u ■ 1 /-'<\"VV ^v.V--.^;> v ;-,,.Vv;!-;:AV/ ■ STATE OF RECIFE. 297 men, likewise, who had in former times daily appeared in full dress suits of black, gold buckles, and cocked hats, had now, in many in- stances, exchanged these for nankeen panta- loons, half-boots, and round hats. Even the high and heavy saddle was now less in use, and that of more modern form was all the fashion. The sedan chairs, in which the ladies often go to church, and to pay visits to their friends, had now put on a much smarter appearance, and the men who carried them were dressed more dash- ingly. These cannot fail to attract the attention of strangers, in their gay clothes, their helmets and feathers, and their naked legs. The an- nexed print represents one of these equipages. The country-residences which had been lately built, were also numerous ; lands in the vicinity of Recife had risen in price ; the trade of brick- making was becoming lucrative ; work-people were in request ; and besides many other spots of land, the track between the villages of Pogo da Panella and Monteiro, in extent about one mile, which in 1810 was covered with brushwood, had now been cleared ; houses were building and gardens forming upon it. The great church of Corpo Santo, situated in that part of the town which is properly called Recife, was now finished, and various inprovements were meditated.* The ' Before I came away in 1815, a "considerable portion of the land (which was covered by the tide at high water) be- A BRAZILIAN LADY. time of advancement was come, and men, who had for many years gone on without making any change either in the interior or exterior of their houses, were now painting and glazing on the outside, and new furnishing within ; modern- izing themselves, their families, and their dwel- lings. This spirit of alteration produced, in one case, rather ludicrous consequences. There was a lady of considerable dimensions, who had en- tered into this love of innovation, and carried it to a vast extent. She was almost equal in cir- cumference and height, but notwithstanding this unfortunate circumstance, personal embel- lishments were not to be despised ; she wished to dress in English fashion, and was herself de- cidedly of opinion that she had succeeded. Upon her head she wore a very small gypsey-hat tied under the chin. Stays have only lately been introduced, but this improvement she had not yet adopted ; still her gown was to be in tween St. Antonio and Boa Vista, had been raised, and houses had been built upon it. The principal street of St. Antonio has been paved. The bridge of Boa Vista has been rebuilt of timber; and that between St. Antonio and Recife was about to undergo considerable repair. The hos- pitals, likewise, were to be improved ; and as I have heard since my arrival in England, of the appointment of a most worthy man to the direction, of one of them, I trust that thit. intention has been acted upon. THE MILITIA. 299 English fashion too, and therefore was cut and slashed away, so as to leave most unmercifully in view several beauties which otherwise would have remained concealed. This gown was of muslin, and was worked down the middle and round the bottom in several colours ; her shoes were as small as could be allowed ; but the un- fortunate redundance of size also reached the ancles and the feet, and thus rendering com- pression necessary ; the superabundance which nature had lavishly bestowed, projected and hung down over each side of the shoes. I became acquainted and somewhat intimate with the Capitam-inor of a neighbouring district, from frequently meeting him in my evening visits to a Brazilian family. He was about to make the circuit of his district in the course of a few weeks, and invited one of my friends and myself to accompany him in this review or visit to his officers, to which we readily agreed. It was arranged that he should make us acquainted in due time with the day which he might ap- point for setting out, that we might meet him at his sugar-plantation, from whence we were to proceed with him and his suite further into the country. The Capitaens-mores, captains-major, are of- ficers of considerable power. They have civil as well as military duties to perform, and ought ^0 be appointed from among the planters of most 300 THE MILITIA. wealth and individual weight in the several Termos, boundaries or districts ; but the in- terest of family or of relations about the Court have occasioned deviations from this rule ; and persons very unfit for these situations, have been sometimes nominated to them. The whole aspect of the government in Brazil is military. All men between the ages of sixteen and sixty must be enrolled either as soldiers of the line, as militia-men, or as belonging to the body of Ordenanfas. Of the regular soldiers, I have already spoken in another place. Of the second class, each township has a regiment, of which the individuals, with the exception of the major and adjutant, and in some cases the colonel, do not receive any pay. But they are considered as embodied men, and as such are called out upon some few occasions, in the course of the year, to assemble in uniform, and otherwise ac- coutred. The expense which must be incurred in this respect, of necessity precludes the pos- sibility of many persons becoming members of this class, even if the Government was desirous of increasing the number of militia regiments. The soldiers of these are subject to their cap- tains, to the colonel, and to the governor of the province. The colonels are either rich planters, or the major or lieutenant-colonel of a regiment of the line is thus promoted to the command oi' one of these j in this case, and in this case only, 0RDENAN9AS. .301 he receives pay. I am inclined to think that he ought to possess some property in the district, and that any deviation from this rule is an abuse ; but I am not certain that the law so ordains. The majors and the adjutants are likewise occa- sionally promoted from the line ; but whether they are regularly military men or planters, they receive pay, as their trouble in distributing or- ders, and in other arrangements connected with the regiment, is considerable. The third class, that of the Ordenangas, con- sisting of by far the largest portion of the white persons and of free mulatto men of all shades, have for their immediate chiefs the Capitaens- 7iwres, who serve without pay, and all the per- sons who are connected with the Ordenanqas are obliged likewise to afford their services gratui- tously. Each district contains one Capitam-mor> who is invariably a person possessing property in the part of the country to which he is ap- pointed. He is assisted by a major, captains, and alfercs, who are lieutenants or ensigns, and by sergeants and corporals. The duties of the Cajntam-mor are to see that every individual under his command has in his possession some species of arms ; either a firelock, a sword, or a pike. He distributes the governor's orders through his district, and can oblige any of his men to take these orders to the nearest captain, who sends another peasant forwards to the next 302 CAPITA M-M0R. captain, and so forth, all of which is done with- out any pay. A Capitam-mor can also imprison for twenty-four hours, and send under arrest for trial a person who is accused of having com- mitted any crime, to the civil magistrate of the town to which his district is immediately at- tached. Now, the abuses of this office of Capi- tam-mor are very many, and the lower orders of free persons are much oppressed by these great men, and by their subalterns, down to the cor- porals. The peasants are often sent upon er- rands which have no relation to public business; for leagues and leagues these poor fellows are made to travel, for the purpose of carrying some private letter of the chief, of his captains, or of his lieutenants, without any remuneration. In- deed, many of these men in place seldom think of employing their slaves on these occasions, or of paying the free persons so employed. This I have witnessed times out of number ; and have heard the peasants in all parts of the country complain : it is a most heavy grievance. Nothing so much vexes a peasant as the consciousness of losing his time and trouble in a service which is not required by his Sovereign. Persons are sometimes confined in the stocks for days to- gether, on some trifling plea, and are at last released without being sent to the civil magi- strate, or even admitted to a hearing. However, I am happy to say, that I am acquainted with BEGIN THE JOURNEY. 303 some men, whose conduct is widely different from what I have above stated ; but the power given to an individual is too great, and the pro- bability of being called to an account for its abuse too remote, to insure the exercise of it in a proper manner. The free mulattos and free negroes whose names are upon the rolls, either of the militia regiments which are commanded by white offi- cers, or by those of their own class and colour, are not, properly speaking, subject to the Capi- taens-mores. These officers and the colonels of militia are appointed by the supreme govern- ment, and the subaltern officers are nominated by the governor of each province. The above explanation of the state of internal government I thought necessary, that the reader might understand the grounds upon which I was about to undertake the journey, of which some account will immediately be given. On the 28th January, 1812, the Capitam-mor sent one of his servants to summon us to his plantation, and to be our guide. Early on the morning following, my friend, myself, our own two servants, and the boy who had been sent to us by the Capitam-mor, set forth on horseback in high spirits ; my friend and I expecting to see something new and strange. I had before, as has been already related, travelled into the less, populous parts of the country; but I had had 304 PROCEED THROUGH OLINDA. very little communication with the planters. Orf that occasion, I proceeded too rapidly to obtain as much knowledge of their manners and customs as I wished. We proceeded to Olinda, and passed through its wretchedly paved streets with much care ; and when we were descending the hill, upon which it stands on the land side, there was laid open to us a considerable extent of marshy ground, which was partly covered with mandioc, planted upon raised beds or hillocks, which were made of a circular form, that the water might not reach the roots of the plants ; the remainder of the land was still undrained and unproduc- tive. The darkness of the green of the plants which grow upon marshy ground immediately points out the lands that are in this state. The country which was to be seen in the distance was covered with wood. We crossed a rivulet, communicating with the marshy land on each side of the road, and passed on over some rising ground, and by several scattered cottages, until we reached, distant from Olinda one league, the low lands surrounding the hill which forms the site of the sugar-plantation of Fragozo. From hence the lands are low and damp, almost with- out any rising gronnd, to the sugar plantation of Paulistas. The beautiful spots upon this track of country are numerous ; cottages are often- times to be met with, half concealed among the 306 PAULTSTAS. immediately behind it is the Mamoeiro, which produces its fruit upon the stem ; the fruit is large, and the pulp of it is soft, having much resemblance in consistence and in taste to a melon that is too ripe; the appearance of the fruit has some similarity likewise to a small round melon. To those who are unaccustomed to a country that is literally covered with woods, which prevent an extensive view of the surrounding objects, and the free circulation of air, the de- lightful sensations which are produced by a fine green field, opening all at once to the sight, and swept by a refreshing breeze, cannot possibly be felt. The plantation of Paulistas is so situated. The buildings were numerous, but most of them were low, and somewhat out of repair. These are the dwelling-house of the owner, which is spacious, and has one story above the ground floor ; the chapel, with its large wooden cross erected upon the centre of the gable end ; the mill, a square building without walls, its roof being supported upon brick pillars ; the long row of negro huts, the steward's residence, and several others of minor importance. These edi- fices are all of them scattered upon a large field, which is occupied by a considerable number of tame cattle ; this is skirted by a dike which runs in front, but somewhat at a distance from the dwelling-house of the owner, and through it PAULISTAS. 30?' runs the water which turns the mill. On the opposite side of the field is the chaplain's cot- tage, with its adjoining lesser row of negro huts, its plaintain garden, and its wide-spreading mango trees behind it. Beyond the principal house are low and extensive cane and. meadow- lands, which are skirted on one side by the build- ings of another small plantation, and bordered at a great distance by woods, which are situated upon the sides and summit of rising ground. This valuable and beautiful plantation was in the possession of a near relation of our Capitam- mor. We were acquainted with the son of the owner, who was chaplain to the estate, and had invited us to make his residence our resting-place ; this we did. He was prepared to receive us, and after having breakfasted, we proceeded to pay a visit to the old gentleman at the Great House, as the dwellings of the owners of plantations are called. He was unwell, and could not be seen ; but we were received by his wife and two daughters. They made many enquiries about England, and conversed upon other subjects which they supposed we might be acquainted with. This estate was not much worked ; the slaves led a most easy life, and the Great House was full of young children. Of these urchins several came in and out of the room, they were quite naked, and played with each other, and with some large dog* x 2 jmm ■ -/p- ■ ,._, PAULISTAS. which were lying at full length upon the floor. These ebon cupids were plainly great favourites, and seemed to employ the greater part of the thoughts of the good ladies, the youngest of whom was on the wrong side of fifty ; and even the priest laughed at their gambols. These excellent women and the good priest possess a considerable number of slaves, who are their exclusive property. It is their inten- tion eventually to emancipate all of them, and that they may be prepared for the change,, se- veral of the men have been brought up as mechanics of different descriptions ; and the women have been taught needle-work, em- broidery, and all branches of culinary know- ledge. Thus, by the death of four individuals, who are now approaching to old age, will be set free about sixty persons, men, women, and children. As these people have been made acquainted with the intentions of their owners respecting them, it is not surprising that the behaviour of many of them should be overbear- ing. To some, the deeds of manumission have been already passed conditionally, obliging them to serve as slaves until the death of the individual to whom they are subject. These papers cannot be revoked, and yet no ingratitude was feared ; but among so considerable a num- ber of persons, some instances of it cannot, I fear, fail to be experienced. The owners said A'GUIAR. 309 that aJl their own immediate relations are rich, and not at all in need of assistance ; and that therefore independent of other reasons con- nected generally with the system of slavery, these their children had no right to work for any one else. Of the slaves in question, only a few are Africans, the major part being mulattos arid creole negroes. We returned to the cottage of the priest to dinner, and in the afternoon proceeded to the sugar-plantation of Aguiar, belonging to the Capltam-mor, which is distant from Paulistas five leagues, where we arrived about ten o'clock at night, much fatigued. Immediately beyond Paulistas is the narrow but rapid stream of Pa- ratibi, which near to its mouth changes this name for that of Doce. In the rainy season it overflows its banks, and becomes unfordable. The width of it, when it is in the usual state, near to Paulistas, is not above twenty yards. In its course to the sea, it runs through much marshy ground. We passed by four sugar- mills this afternoon ; that which bears the name of Utinga de ba/To, is situated in an amphi- theatre, being surrounded by high hills, covered with large trees. These woods have not been much disturbed, and therefore give refuge to enormous quantities of game, among which the porco do mato, or pig of the woods, is com- mon. 1 never saw this animal, and therefore x 3 310 CAPITAM-MOB's DWELLING. cannot pretend to describe it ; but I have often heard it spoken of, as being extremely destruc- tive to mandioc, and that its flesh is good. This animal is not large, and is not unlike the com- mon hog. * Many criminals and runaway ne- groes are harboured in these woods; The in- habitants of Utinga seem to be shut out from all the rest of the world, as the path which leads from it is not immediately distinguished. The last three leagues, which we traversed in the dark, were covered with almost unbroken woods ; the path through them is narrow, and the branches of the trees cross it in all direc- tions ; our guide rode in front, and many times did his head come in contact with them. The dwelling of the Capitam-mor is a large building of one story above the ground-floor : the lower part of which forms the warehouse for the sugar and other articles which the * Bolingbroke says, that instances are frequent of some of the European swine escaping into the woods, where they live wild ; and he adds, that their increase has been immense. In another place he speaks of a species of this animal, which is peculiar to tropical America, and is called the warree, which he says is about the size of an European hog, and much like it in shape. The porco do mato is not the sus tajassu, which is, I imagine, what Bolingbroke calls the picaree hog. — Voyage to the Demerary, &c. by Henry Bolingbroke, in Phillips' Collection of Modern Voyages, vol. x. p. 57. and 129. The tajacu is to be met with at Maranhani, but is not known at Pcrnambuco. ORDENANCA UNIFORM. 811 estate produces. We ascended a wooden stair- case, erected on the outside of the building, entered a small antichamber, and were received by our host and one of his sons, who conducted us into a spacious apartment beyond. A long table, and one of rather less dimensions, a couple of benches, and a few broken and un- painted chairs formed the whole furniture Of these rooms. Four or five black boys, who were of a size too far advanced to wear the bow and arrow, but who were quite as little en- cumbered with dress as if they still might wield these dangerous w T eapons in the character of cupids, stood all astonishment to view the strange beings that had just arrived ; and at all the doors were women's heads peeping to see whom we might be. The supper consisted as is usual of great quantities of meat, placed upon the table without arrangement. At five o'clock in the morning, the Capitam- mor, my friend, myself, and three servants proceeded to the distance of three leagues with- out any addition to our party ; but we were soon joined by the adjutant of the district and several other officers, in uniforms of dark blue with yellow facings most monstrously broad — the gay cuffs reaching half way up to the el- bows ; they wore round hats with short feathers, straight swords of mostprodigious length, and very loose nankeen pantaloons and boots; the former x 4 312 CRUELTY TO SLAVES. were thrust within the latter, which caused the higher part of the pantaloons to appear to be of preposterous width. We dismounted at a sugar-plantation, being the third we had passed through this morning ; here we were invited to stay to breakfast, but this we could not do, and were therefore regaled with pine-apples and oranges. The owner of this place had taken great pains with his garden, and had reared several fruits which require much care ; but it is strange that, although there are many which may be raised with very little trouble, still upon far the greater number of plantations, even oranges are not to be found. The ant is, I well know, a great persecutor of this tree, but when care is taken in this respect, and a little water is afforded during the dry months for two or three years, none else is necessary. Upon the same plantation have been practised the most monstrous cruelties ; the conduct of the owner towards his slaves is often spoken of with abhorrence, but yet he is visited and treated with the same respect which is paid to an individual of unblemished character. It is however almost the only instance of which I heard of systematic, continued, wanton enor- mity ; but it has here occurred and has passed unpunished, and this one is sufficient, even if none other existed, to stamp the slave system as an abomination which ought to be rooted ARRIVE AT SANTA CRUZ. out. The estate was inherited by the person in question, with sixty good slaves upon it ; fifteen years have elapsed since that time to the period of which I speak, and there were then remain- ing only four or five individuals who were able to work. Some have fled and have escaped, others have died, God knows how, and others again have committed suicide in sight of their master's residence. We arrived at mid-day at Santa Cruz, and had now reached the cotton country. The track through which we had passed was for the most part well watered and well wooded ; the marshy lands being less frequently inter- spersed than upon the journey of the preceding day. The sugar-plantations were numerous ; we saw eight of them this morning. The ground was often uneven, and we crossed one rather steep hill. The lands upon which we had now arrived, and those to which we were ad- vancing, are altogether higher, and the grass upon them was now much burnt up, the " first waters" not having yet fallen. The soil in these parts retains less moisture than that of the coun- try which we had left, and soon becomes too hard to be worked. The party was now much increased, and in the afternoon we proceeded to Pindoba, a cotton plantation of considerable extent ; the owner of it is wealthy, and possesses many slaves. He received us in his dressing- 31 t- OllDENANCA REVIEW. gown, under which he wore a shirt, drawers, and a pair of stockings. After the first greetings were over, he brought out a small bottle of liqueur made in the country, to which he him- self helped his guests, one solitary glass, which was filled, and then emptied by each person, being made use of by the whole party. After supper a guitar player belonging to the house entertained us until a late hour, whilst our host sat upon a table smoking from a pipe of fully six feet in length. Several hammocks were slung in two large apartments, and each person either talked or went to sleep, or occasionally did one and the other, no form or ceremony being observed. The peasants began to assemble early on the following morning, as three companies of the Ordenangas were to be reviewed. These were the first which were to undergo inspection, as the Capitam-mor purposed visiting again the places through which we had passed on his re- turn, and intended then to perform this duty. The men wore their usual dress of shirt and drawers, and perhaps a nankeen jacket and pan- taloons were added, and most of them had mus- kets. The Capitam-mor came forth this day in his scarlet uniform, and sat himself down near to a table. The captain of the company which was about to be reviewed stood near to him with the muster-roll. The names of the privates ORDENANCA REVIEW. 315 were called over by the captain, and as each name was repeated by the sergeant, who stood at the door-way, the individual to whom it be- longed came in and presented arms to the Ca- pitam-mor y then turned about and retired. It was truly ridiculous, but at the same time pain- ful, to see the fright which the countenances of aome of the poor fellows expressed, and their excessive awkwardness when they came to pre- sent themselves ; whilst others displayed evident self-sufficiency ; these were well-dressed, and performed every manoeuvre with as much neat- ness and promptitude as they were capable of, expressive of superior knowledge, and in hopes of admiration. There were of course many ab- sentees, and for the non-appearance of these some reason was given by one of the officers of the company to which the man belonged, or by a neighbour. The excuses were usually received as all-sufficient, without any further enquiry be- ing made. However the absence of one of the captains was not thus quietly acquiesced in, and therefore an officer was dispatched to his house to bring him to Pindoba under an arrest. Whe- ther this proceeded from some private pique, or from zeal for the public service, I do not pretend to determine, but he soon arrived in custody. He was put into one of the apartments of the house which we were inhabiting, and a sergeant Mas stationed at the door as a sentinel. The 316 BOM JARD1M. Capitam-mor soon however relented, upon which he was released and allowed to return home. At dinner the great man took the head of the table, and the owner of the house stood by and waited upon him. Every thing was served up in enormous quantities, for the party was large, and this is the custom ; there was no sort of regu- larity observed ; every man helped himself to the dish which pleased him best, and this was oftentimes done, with the knife which the per- son had been making use of upon his own plate, and by reaching across two or three of his neigh- bours for the purpose. A nice bit was not safe even upon one's own plate, being occasionally snatched up, and another less dainty given in re- turn. Much wine was drank during dinner, and the glasses were used in common. We soon rose from table, and the party, generally speak- ing, took the accustomed sesta or nap after din- ner which is usual in warm climates. My friend and I walked out in the afternoon, but there was nothing to tempt us to go far, for the neigh- bourhood possessed no natural beauty, and the dry weather had burnt up the grass, and had made the face of the country extremely dreary. Early on the morrow about forty persons sal- lied forth for the village of Bom Jardim. It is distant from Pindoba one league and a half. We arrived there at seven o'clock. This village is built in the form of a square ; the houses are BOM JARDIM. 317 low, but the church is large and handsome. Like the huts of A$u and of some other places, those of Bom Jardim are not white-washed, and therefore the mud of which they are composed remains in its original colour. The place con- tains about 500 inhabitants. We ascended a steep hill to arrive at it, and on the opposite side still another of equal height is to be surmounted in proceeding farther inland. The village is situated upon a break of the hill. The soil is chiefly composed of red earth, approaching in places to a bright scarlet, with veins of yellow running through it; this is the description of soil, which is said to be the best adapted to the . growth of cotton. Bom Jardim is a great ren- dezvous for the hawkers who are proceeding to the Sertam, and for others who merely advance thus far. It is distant from Recife twenty good leagues, in a N. E. direction. My friend and I walked out and descended the hill by a path which led us to the bed of the river, for there was now no water in it. Great want of water is often experienced at Bom Jardim, but I think that if wells of sufficient depth were dug, a supply might be obtained. * On our return to the village, we discovered that mas^ was about to be said, and therefore we ac- * Directions were given by the Capitam-mor, that a reser- voir for rain water should be formed ; and these have been carried into effect 1815. 318 BOM JARD1M. companied some of our party to the church. It was crowded ; indeed it is a remark which I was frequently led to make, that on Sundays and holidays, when the peasantry assemble at the church doors, their numbers must astonish those persons who merely pass through the country without opportunities being afforded to them of a more minute examination. The cottages upon the road side do not promise so numerous a population as is on these occasions to be seen ; but from the thickness of the woods and the lowness of the huts, even when a view of the country is by any accident to be obtained from a high hill, the dwellings of the lower orders of people are not to be perceived ; they are scat- tered all over the country ; and narrow paths which appear impassable or nearly so, and are scarcely to be observed, often lead to four of rive huts, situated in the centre of a wood or upon some low ground, adapted to the cultiva- tion of mandioc and maize. One company was reviewed at Bom Jardim, and from hence a captain was deputed to con- tinue the review further into the country. We rode this afternoon one league to the house of Captain Anselmo, being so far upon our return. On our way to this place we saw the woods on one side of the road on fire. In the dry season the grass and brushwood become so completely parched, that the least spark sets a whole track CAPTAIN AXSELMO. 3ig of country in a blaze. I mean that the fire will sometimes run on for a league, and even more. It will occasionally blaze forth most violently, and catching the branches of the large trees, the flames will at intervals flash above their summit ; — it will then subside, but continue smothered in the hollow of some aged tree, or in a heap of leaves which still retain some moisture ; but a breath of air spreads it abroad, and it again runs on with violence. The peasants almost inva- riably smoke as they go along, and oftentimes they ask for a lighted piece of wood at a cottage which they may chance to pass. It is astonish- ing to see with what unconcern they will hurl this from them still unextinguished, knowing, as they do full well, the consequences which fre- quently have ensued. The act of setting fire to a wood is subject to punishment by law, if in- tention or even carelessness can be proved. The crop of canes of some estates have, in many in- stances, been injured by these means. Captain Anselmo resides upon a cotton plan- tation which is his own property, and is culti- vated by about forty negroes. The house is situated upon the shelf of a steep hill, with a beautiful plain below, upon which trees are thickly scattered. At the foot of the hill is a large fish-pond, through which a rivulet runs in the rainy season. The owner has lately inclosed a piece of land, and was making a garden upon 320 THE INTRUDO. tlie borders of the pond. The dwelling-house was new and had a second floor ; it was very clean and well furnished. This was the most pleasantly situated and the best arranged man- sion which we visited during this journey ; the huts for the slaves were well built and looked comfortable. Here we were entertained with such music as has as yet found its way into these parts of the country. Three negroes with bag- pipes attempted to play a few tunes whilst we were at dinner, but they seemed to play in dif- ferent keys from each other, and sometimes each appeared to have struck up a tune of his own composing. I think I never heard so bad an attempt at producing harmonious sounds as the charameleiros made. The possession of a band of these bespeaks a certain degree of superiority, consequently the planters pride themselves upon their musicians. Our party could not let pass this opportunity of being together without practising the amuse- ment of the intrudo *, although the usual timc- * The Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday are properly the days of the intrudo, but the sport is, as in the ease in question, often commenced a week before the ap- pointed time. Water and hair powder are the ingredient.*- which are established to be hurled at each other, but fre- quently no medium is preserved, and every thing is taken up heedlessly and thrown about by all parties, whether it bq clean or dirty, whether it may do mischief or is harmless. CAPTAIN PAULO TRAVASSO. S9r\ of its celebration was yet distant one week. On the day subsequent to that of our arrival, dinner was scarcely over before t\\cfarinha y the bananas, the rice, and other dainties upon the table, were hurled at each other's heads ; soon the smart uniform coats were taken off, and in his shirt- sleeves each man began this civil war with heart and soul. Every thing was borne with perfect good humour, and at last, fatigued and be- daubed, all of us retired to the hammocks which had been provided for the party. But as our evil stars would have it, a brave cap- tain closed quietly all the shutters (as the moon was shining very bright into the room), and then he placed himself near to an enormous jar of water, which stood in one corner of the apartment, and with a small pitcher in his hand soon dealt around him its contents, awakening us with repeated showers, and obliging us to take shelter under the chairs and tables. This, and other jokes allied to it, continued until the break of day, when we prepared for a continua- tion of our journey. One company was re- viewed here. We proceeded to the house of Captain Paulo Truvasso, distant one league. As was our usual custom, my friend and I walked out soon after our arrival, and in returning, instead of pur- suing the path, which was rather circuitous, we attempted to climb up a bank, that we might VOL. I. y mi ANOTHER INTRUDO. the sooner reach the house ; my friend was be- fore me, and as he scrambled up it, his foot slipped, which caused him to catch at the stump of a small plant, that grew upon the side of the bank. He gave up his idea of going by that way to the house, and returned to me, bringing with him the plant, with its root and the earth about it. On going to throw it away, he per- ceived upon his hand the glitter of a sub- stance which made us return to the spot. We gathered some more of the earth, and this gen- tleman, who had long resided upon the coast of Africa, judged the substance which was mixed with it to be gold dust. At this place the intrudo was continued more violently than before ; for even the blackened pots and pans from the kitchen were introduced to besmear each other's faces. We obtained here a view of the females belonging to the house j but every where else, they had been too rigorously guarded, or were naturally too reserved to enable us to see them. Some excuse was made by the young men who were acquainted with the family, to draw them into the sport ; and the ladies and their slaves were nothing loath to see and to participate in what was go- ing forwards. A circumstance occurred which created much laughter, and which is but too characteristic. One man whom we met at this place, had all along begged of those who were ANOTHER INTRUDO. 323 engaged in the sport, that they would not wet him, because he was unwell ; however it was seen that he did not observe towards others that forbearance which he entreated from them to- wards himself. One of our party seeing this, attacked him with a large silver ladle filled with water ; the man ran out of the house, and the other followed ; but when they were at some distance from it, he turned upon his pursuer, and drawing his knife, stood at some distance, threatening to stab him if he advanced. The other, striking his left side at the place in which knives are usually carried, likewise threatened him, and without delay advanced towards him, having picked up a thick stick as he approached. But his adversary did not like the thoughts of a close combat, and soon set off at full speed, with his knife in his hand. In this manner he entered the back door of the house, whilst he of the silver ladle took the front door. They met in the apartment from which they had started, when the latter opened his waistcoat, and showed that he had not a knife ; thus prov- ing before the whole party, that he of'the knife had run away from one who was unarmed. This was quite sufficient ; the women made a general attack upon him : he went to the stable, mounted his horse, and set forth ; but his misfortunes had notyetended,forthepath by which he mustretreat lay under two of the windows of the house, and y c > 8U THE SOAP-TREE. as he passed, two large tubs of water drenched him and his steed, which immediately quicken- ed its pace, amidst the hooting of every one present. We continued our journey in the afternoon to a sugar-plantation, the property of Captain Joam Soares, where we remained until the fol- lowing day. Some of us were tired of the intrudOy and therefore sought shelter in the mill and adjoining out-houses, when we saw the sport again commencing ; but we were about to be attacked, when we gained the roofs of one of the buildings, and from hence could not be dislodged. I had frequently seen the saboeiro or soap- tree, which is to be chiefly found in these dis- tricts. It is a large shrub, which puts forth numerous branches in every direction, so that when it is in full leaf, it has somewhat the ap- pearance of trees that have been clipped, (as was formerly practised in gardens,) which is increased by the leaves being small and growing very close to each other. The receptacle of the seed is about the size of a small plum ; when this is put into water, and rubbed with some violence, it produces the same effect as that which is caused by soap in water, and it has the same property of cleansing. * The pao do allio * The account which Labat gives of I'arbre & Savonettet- does not agree in all points with mine ; the difference ma\ 13 LIMOEIRO. 325 or garlic tree, is to be met with in great abun- dance in these districts. The name is derived from the similitude of the smell of the leaves and the wood of this plant to garlic. The tree abounds so greatly, and, I suppose, reminded the first settlers so much of one of their favourite European culinary ingredients, that it has given name to a town, and to a whole district. About five o'clock in the afternoon we pro- ceeded to Limoeiro, a large and thriving vil- lage. * It is composed of one street of about three quarters of a mile in length, which is closed at one end by the church and vicarage : this building belonged formerly to the Jesuits. The trade of Limoeiro with the interior is con- siderable, and particularly on the day of the market, which is held weekly, the bustle is excessive. These days seldom pass without arise from various circumstances to which some clew might have been discovered, if attention had been paid to the sub- ject upon the spot. He says that the leaves are three inches in length, and " cet arbre est un de plus gros, des plus grands, et des meiUeurs qui croissent aux isles. — Nouveau Voyage, %c. Tom. vii. p. 383. Du Tertre says, that it grows en abondance le long de la mer, dans les lieux les plus sees et les plus arides. — Histoire des Antilles, fyc. Tom. ii. p. 165. I have only heard of the Saboeiro at some distance from the coast. * Limoeiro was raised to a township by an Alvara issued from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th July, 1811 ; but this was not then known. It has now a mayor, municipality, and capitam-mor. Y 3 326 LIMOEIKO. some murders being committed, or at least many wounds and blows being given ; but the markets of Nazareth or Lagoa d'Anta are those which are particularly famed for the disturbances that usually take place there. These became so considerable at one time, that the Governor found it necessary to issue orders for a patrole to keep the peace on market days. Limoeiro contains about six hundred inha- bitants, and is increaing daily. It stands upon the banks of the river Capibaribe, which was at this time quite dry. The distance from Recife is fourteen good leagues. We were entertained by the vicar, who has taken very little pains to have a decent residence, and cannot fail to be somewhat indifferent about his own life, for every step to which we advanced as we ascended to the apartments above, promised to be the last that would hold us. The floors of the rooms into which we were ushered, seemed to be laid out as traps to ensnare those who might not tread cautiously; some of the boards were broken, and large holes remained : others were loose, and it was dangerous to pass over them ; and besides the several perils of this mansion, substances which are not pleasant to the nose might unwarily be trampled upon. Never did I see so miserable a dwelling, whose inhabitant might with so much ease have bettered the state in which we found it. However, I ought not RETURN TO RECIFE. 3& to complain, for to counterbalance all this, we had a tea-pot, sugar basin, and other parts of the equipage of silver. The Capitam-mor had still several posts to visit, which would delay him for a considerable time ; therefore as my friend was anxious to return to Recife, we left our party, with much regret, and were accompanied in the morning by the adjutant, who was about to return home. I had been greatly amused, and wished to have seen the conclusion of the affair. At Limoeiro, several companies were to be reviewed, and from thence the Capitam-mor proceeded to Pao do Alho* and Nazareth, or Lagoa d'Antat, two large villages of considerable importance. Both of them are within a few leagues of the place from which we separated from our companions. We returned to Santa Cruz, passed through that village, and were entertained at the house of the adjutant. We reached Aguiar in the afternoon, * This place was erected a township by the same Alvar&, which was issued respecting Limoeiro ; and by the same, the villages of Cape St. Augustin and of St. Antam were likewise raised to the rank of towns ; a sure sign is this of the increase of population. -J- This village is as much or more generally known by the name of Lagoa d'Anta, as by that of Nazareth ; but the latter is the name which it bears in law. The former name, which means the Lake of the Anta, seems to denote that that animal was known in this part of the country ; but in the present day, I could not meet with any of the peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify. y 4f S2S BRAZILIAN PLANTER. being received at that place by one of the Capi- tam-mor's sons, a young man of eighteen years of age ; and we also saw the Capitam-mor's interesting wife, who is likewise his niece ; she was about fifteen years of age, he being about forty-six. We slept there, and stopped at Paulistas on the following day at noon, from whence we proceeded to Recife on the evening of the 6th February. I heard one of the sugar-planters bitterly com- plaining of his poverty, and that his want of hands to work his mill obliged him to give up the cultivation of much of the best land of his estate. Soon after he had uttered these com- plaints, the conversation turned upon saddle- horses and their trappings ; and he then told us that he had lately purchased a new saddle and bridle, which he wished us to see. These new trappings were most superb affairs ; the saddle was made of morocco leather and green velvet, and silver headed nails and plates of the same metal were profusely scattered and placed upon all parts of this and of the bridle. He told us that the whole had cost him four hundred mil reis, about 110/. This sum of money would have purchased four slaves. But the matter did not end here, for he opened a drawer in which were strewed several broken silver-spoons, spurs, &c. and he said that he was collecting a suffi- cient quantity of this metal for the purpose of ■ BRAZILIAN PLANTER. 329 having his groom's horse ornamented in the same manner as his own. The free persons of colour who inhabit the track of country through which we passed are more numerous than I had previously imagined. The companies of Ordena^as vary much in strength ; some consist of one hundred and fifty men and more, and others of not above fifty. The peasantry of the Mata> that is, of the coun- try which lies between the plentiful well-watered districts of the coast and the Sertoens, have not a general good character. The miserable life which they, oftener than others, are obliged to lead from the want of water and of provisions, seems to have an unfavourable effect upon them ; they are represented as being more vindictive and more quarrelsome, and less hospitable than their neighbours. To say that a man is a matuto da mata, a woodman of the wood, is no recom- mendation to him. During this journey I heard the following story ; and as I was acquainted with the person to whom the circumstances occurred, I can vouch for its veracity : — K Brazilian who had been wealthy, but who had, through many im- prudences, and from many deeds which deserve a much severer name, reduced himself to a state of comparative poverty, resided in this part of the country at the time I travelled through it. He was a man of loose morals and savage dis- 330 BRAZILIAN PLANTER. position, but of most pleasant manners. He had in one particular instance, which pre-emi- nently stamped his character, behaved in a most shameful manner to a lady to whom he professed himself to be attached. He had possessed many slaves ; but at the time the following occur- rences took place three or four only remained, and of these one alone was in health. Appre- hensive of being assassinated by some of the persons whom he had injured and insulted, he usually kept the doors and windows of his re- sidence well secured, excepting one entrance which was likewise closed at dusk. One even- ing, three men knocked at the door, and asked leave to pass the night in some of the out-houses of the plantation ; the owner answered from within, but did not open the door, saying that they might sleep in the mill. About an hour afterwards there was another knock, and a person requested that some fruit might be sold to him. The owner fetched some, and inconsiderately opened the door to give it to the man ; but when he looked out, all the three were there, and as he reached the fruit to one of them, a second fired, and the greatest part of the shot entered the abdomen. The known courage of the wounded man made these fellows hesitate in approaching him immediately, by which means he had time to reach his sword, which stood near to where he was, and he was enabled to BRAZILIAN PLANTER. 331 close and bolt the door. This being done he reached his bed with great difficulty, expecting that every minute would be his last. The men tried to gain admittance through some of the doors or windows ; but not succeeding in .this, they rode off. As soon as the slave who was in health heard the report of the gun, and saw his master wounded, he left the house, recollecting (which is somewhat surprising) to lock the door; he made all haste to a neighbouring plantation, distant one league. The owner of the place to which the slave had fled, ordered a hammock to be prepared, and set off with sixteen negroes ; he was accompanied by his chaplain, who brought with him a candle, and all the other necessary appendages to the bed-side of a dying Catholic. They arrived, and found the wounded man in a state which led them to suppose that he could not live many hours ; but he was con- fessed, and anointed with the holy oil, and thus prepared for the worst. Then they put him into the hammock, and his neigbour had him conveyed to his residence. The person who related this story to me, did not fail to add, that a lighted candle was carried in a lantern, that the wounded man should not run the risk of dying without having the light in his hand, as is the custom. A surgeon was sent for to Iguaracu, which is distant several leagues, and he succeeded in extracting almost all the shot. 332 BRAZILIAN PLANTER. Notwithstanding the delay, and other unfavour- able circumstances, I saw this man in good health in 1813. Whilst he still remained in a dangerous state at the house of his friend, a Sertanejo Indian, well armed, passed through the place, and asked one of the negroes if he was still alive. It was generally said that he must remove to some far distant part of the country, otherwise he might daily expect another attack, and particularly as his enemies were Sertanejos. The men who had attempted to murder him were dressed after the manner of these people, and were seen on the following day travelling towards the interior. They men- tioned at some of the cottages at which they stopped, that they believed they had prevented one man from eating any more piram, which is equal to an European using in the same manner the word bread. The person whom they had attacked could not be sure of the quarter from whence the blow proceeded ; for many were those from which he might have expected it. In Brazil, injured persons or their relatives must either allow their own wrongs and those of their families to go unpunished, or they must them- selves undertake the chastisement of him who has committed the crime. The evil proceeds, immediately, from the vastness of the country, and from the want of attention in the govern- ment to counteract this disadvantage. ( 333 ) CHAP. XL RESIDENCE AT JAGUARIBE. JOURNEY TO GOIANA. ILLNESS. — RETURN TO JAGUARIBE. A FTER the journey to Bom Jardim, I did not again leave Recife for any length of time, until I entered with a friend into a scheme of farming. It had been greatly my wish to remove from the town into the country, from preference, rather than from any other cause. In the beginning of April, 1812, we entered the sugar-plantation of Jaguaribe, distant from Recife four leagues, in a northward direction, and about one league from the coast ; it had upon it several slaves, oxen, machinery, and im- plements, which enabled the new tenant to enter it immediately. A few days after these matters were arranged, I accompanied the owner to the plantation, for the purpose of meeting the per- son who was about to leave it, being the second visit which I had made to my intended place of residence. Having agreed with this man, the owner and myself returned to sleep at the dwelling of one of his brothers, which was situ- ated about a mile and a half from the coast ; this person had purchased some lands, which he 334 RIVER DOCE. was now clearing, and upon which he wis erecting several buildings. He and his famiy inhabited a barn, and we were to sleep in lis new house, of which the roof and the wool- work of the wails were alone erected. Tie rainy season had commenced, and this unfinished dwelling was almost surrounded by pools of stag- nant water, inhabited by enormous toads, whoie loud and hoarse croaking continued during tie whole of the night, without intermission. Tie trunks of the trees which had been cut down a short time before, were lying as they had fallui in all directions. In the morning I set f the river is quite sweet, which has obtained fir it the name of Doce. It was upon the borders of this river that tie Portuguese and the Dutch were first opposed o RIVER DOCE. 335 each other in that part of Brazil * : here com- menced that memorahle struggle upon which the Pemambucans, with so much reason, pride themselves. The beginning was not propitious, and did not augur well of the result, but time proved the people to be worthy of the beautiful country which they inhabit. The river Tapado, upon the banks of which the Portuguese com- mander afterwards attempted to rally his men ■*, lies between the Doce and Olinda. It is a rivulet or dyke (for it resembles more the latter than the former) without any outlet to the sea, but it is only separated from it by the sands, which are here about twenty yards across. When the rains have been violent, the additional waters of the Tapado are discharged over the sands, and sometimes at spring tides, when the wind blows fresh, a few waves will reach over them and fall into the dyke ; this being the only manner in which they can communicate with each other. At the Doce likewise landed Pedro Jaques de Magalhaens, the general, and Brito Freire (now known as an historian), the admiral of the fleet which assisted the patriots of Per- nambuco in the completion of their long-desired and hardly-earned object — the reconquest of Re- cife, and consequent expulsion of the Dutch, t But to return, — I arrived upon the banks of * History of Brazil, vol.i. p. 467. and 468. f Ibid. vol. ii. p. 237. 336 JAGUAR1BE. the Doce, and asked at a cottage, which was not far distant, if the river was fordable, and being answered in the affirmative, I rode up to its banks and attempted to make my horse enter it, which he refused to do. I made a second and a third trial, when he plunged in swimming : it was with much difficulty that he gained the outermost point of the sand-bank on the oppo- site side. He had passed a bad night, and was not in a proper state to perform this task, nor should I have attempted it if I had known the depth, but I imagined that the tide had suffi- ciently retreated. My clothes were dry before I arrived at home, but I long felt the conse- quences of crossing the Doce. About the middle of May I removed to Ja- guaribe. The road to it is through the planta- tion of Paulistas, from whence, after crossing the Paratibi, a narrow path leads to the left through a deep wood for nearly one league. A steep hill is to be surmounted, and its corre- sponding declivity carefully descended. The wood continues to a break in the hill, on the side nearest to Jaguaribe. On reaching this spot there was a view before me, which would in most situations be accounted very beautiful, but in this delightful country so many fine pro- spects are continually presenting themselves, that I opened upon this with few feelings of pleasure at the sight. I cannot avoid owning that the advantages of the place as a plantation JAGUARIBE. 337 occupied my mind more deeply than its beau- ties. Immediately before me was a cottage and a row of negro huts, surrounded by banana- trees, standing upon a shelf of the hill. Beyond these to the left was the narrow, but far extend- ing valley, upon whose ne&|est border were situated the buildings of Jaguaribe upon an open field, with the hills behind, and in front was the rivulet. To the right was a deep dell, with an expanse of country not thickly covered with wood ; and rather in advance, but also to the right, were numerous deep-coloured man- groves, which pointed out that a stream of con- siderable size ran down among them. On the other side of the nearest of these mangroves, and yet not very far, was the high peak of St. Bento, with the mandioc, and maize lands, and wood upon its side, and the path winding up through them, which is at times concealed, and at times in view ; but the buildings are not to be seen, though the tolling of the chapel-bell may be often heard, from the spot upon which I was standing. I was under the necessity of taking up my abode in the vestry of the chapel, as the Great House was still occupied. The negroes were already at work for us, and under the direction of a proper feitor or manager. The whole neigh- bourhood was astonished at the place I had de- termined to inhabit, until some other dwelling vol. 1. z 338 JAGUARIBE. presented itself. I was certainly not comfort- ably situated, for the vestry consisted of only one apartment, with a door%ay to the field and another into the church, the latter being with- out a door ; the church was unfinished, and was the resort of brfts and owls ; however, it was principally my unconcern respecting ghosts which my neighbours were surprised at. A negro boy and myself remained at night to en- counter these, if any should appear, and to re- ceive our constant visitors the bats. My com- panion rolled himself up upon the ground in a piece of baize and a mat, and thus cased, was quite safe. I slept in a hammock, and often- times these unwelcome guests alighted upon it, as if they had come for the chance of a toe or a finger making its appearance, upon which they might fix. This way of living did not last long, nor did I wish that it should. The house of which I have spoken as being situated upon a shelf of the hill, and as looking down upon the valley, was soon without an in- habitant, and therefore to this I removed. It was large, but the floors of the rooms were with- out bricks, and the interior walls had not been white-washed for ages, and some of them had never undergone the operation. I received visits and presents, as is customary, from my im- mediate neighbours, — the white persons, and those of colour who aspire to gentility ; and in- ■I ADJACENT LAtfDS. 339 deed many individuals of the lower class did not neglect to come and offer their services to the new-comer, whose character and disposition towards them, they judged that it was necessary to become acquainted with. In many instances, the wives of the latter description of visitors came also, and brought sweetmeats, fruit, or flowers. I received them all, sitting in my ham- mock ; the men sat round on chairs, but the wo- men generally squatted down upon the floor, though it was formed of earth. I talked to them of my intentions, and of my wish to con- ciliate, and I heard much of bickerings and squabbles among those of their own rank, and of feuds between their superiors, the same stories being related to me in many different ways. They were much surprised that I should wear so much clothes, saying, that I ought to do as they did, and be unencumbered ; and their ad- vice I soon followed. I was much amused, and for some days these visits took up the largest portion of my time. The lands around me, to the north, belonged to the Benedictine friars ; and to the east to an old lady ; those of the latter were much ne- glected, but those which were possessed by the former were in high order. To the south, be- yond the wood through which I passed in coming to Jaguaribe, are the lands of Paulistas ; and to the west and north-west are some excellent cane r, 340 JOURNEY TO GO I AN A. lands, belonging to a religious lay brotherhood of free negroes of Olinda, which were tenanted by and subdivided among a great number of persons of low rank, whites, mulattos, and blacks. The work went on regularly, and I had soon very little in which to employ my time, except ing in those things by which I might think proper to amuse myself. In the beginning of June, it was necessary that I should visit Goiana; however 1 took a circuitous route for the purpose of seeing some- thing new. I was accompanied by an old free man of colour and by Manoel, a faithful African. We slept the first night at Aguiar, the estate of* the Capitam-mor with whom I had travelled to Bom Jardim ; and on the following morning proceeded through several sugar plantations. We rested at mid-day at Purgatorio, a smalt cotton and mandioc plantation, but we could not purchase any thing of which to make a din- ner, and therefore, as was usual on such occa- sions> we smoked in place of eating. When the sun had declined a little, we again set forth. A few of the sugar-plantations through which we passed in the afternoon were in a decayed state. We stopped at a cottage, and begged the owner to sell us a fowl, but she refused ; — we had not eaten any thing this day. I was loath so to do, but I could not avoid saying that MUNDO NOVO. 341 she must sell one, that I did not mind the price, but that hunger would not allow me to let her do as she pleased in this case. She fixed upon one, and made me pay exorbitantly for it. We parted in the end very good friends ; she of- fered me some herbs with which to cook the bird, and after this reconciliation we again ad- vanced. By going to Purgatorio we had left the usual direct road — cross roads even in Eng- land are not good, so what must they be in Brazil? In one part we were obliged to lean down upon our horses' necks, and to proceed in this manner for some distance, with the branches of the trees completely closed above. The plantation of Mundo Novo, or the new world, which we reached late in the afternoon, was in ruins ; trees grew in the chapel, and the brush- wood in front of the dwelling-house rose higher than its roof. I slept at a cottage hard by, which was inhabited by an elderly man and a number of children, large and small. The ill- fated fowl, and another which we had also obtained by the way, were dressed by the daughters of our host. Soon the cooking was effected, and I commenced operations, literally with tooth and nail, upon one of the birds, for there were no knives, forks, or spoons to be had ; however, I did receive some assistance from my own faca deponta, a pointed knife or dirk, which, though prohibited by law, is worn by all ranks z S I 342 REACH GOIANA. of persons. At night, my hammock was slung under the pent-house ; at a late hour a shower of rain came on ; our host had a vast herd of goats ; these crowded in from the rain, and soon I was obliged, in self-defence, to rise, as I dis- covered that they had very little respect for me ; — my head and some of their's having come in contact, made me look out for better quarters ; and these I found upon a high table, where I remained until the visitors again ventured forth. We proceeded on the morrow, and reached Goiana by the low marshy lands of Catu. The river was scarcely fordable; but we crossed, and on the opposite side the loose mud in the road reached above the horses' knees, and con- tinued along it for more than one hundred yards ; we entered it, and the horses gently waded through ; but mine unfortunately felt that his tail was not quite easy in the mud, and therefore began to move it to and fro on either side ; and as it was long, (much too long on this occasion,) it struck me at every jerk. My dress was a light-coloured nankeen jacket and trowsers, and I came forth, without exaggeration, one cake of mud from head to foot. I rode to the residence of a person with whom I had been long acquainted ; he had taken up his quarters at a new mandioc plantation which had been lately established in the outskirts of Goiana ; my friend had removed to this place to INDIAN OBSTINACY. 34S Superintend some of the workmen. I stayed only two days at Goiana, for I soon accomplished the object of my journey, which was to obtain twenty Indian labourers from Alhandra. My return to Jaguaribe was by the usual road. The day after my arrival at my new home, I rode to Recife, and had on the following day an attack of ague. I had exposed myself lately too much to the sun, and had been several times wet through. The disorder left me in a fortnight ; my horses were sent for, — they came, and I set off for Jaguaribe; but in mid- way I was drenched with rain, and reaching that place much tired, went to sleep unintentionally in my hammock, without changing my clothes. In the morning I felt that the ague was returning, and therefore ordered my horse and rode out to try to shake off the attack, which the peasants say it is possible to do. However, whilst I was talk- ing with a neighbour, on horseback at his door, the ague came on, and I was unable to return to my own dwelling. The next day the Indians from Alhandra ar- rived ; they had imbibed strange notions of the riches of an Englishman ; and their captain told me, that they knew I was very rich, and could afford to give higher wages than any one else. I tried to undeceive them in this respect, but all to no purpose. I offered the usual rate of labour in the country ; but their characteristic obstinacy z 4 3U JOURNEY TO RECIFE* had entered into them, and they preferred re- turning as they came to any abatement of their first demand ; although this was 25 per cent. higher than any person had ever been known to give for daily labour. They dined, placed their wallets upon their shoulders, and went their way. One of my people said, as they disappeared, ascending the hill, beyond the field, " They had rather work for any one else for half the money, than lower in their demands to you." I was removed from this neighbour's house, after a few days, in a hammock ; but finding that the disorder increased, I sent for the ma- nager, an old man of colour, whose wife at- tended upon me. By my desire, he collected a sufficient number of bearers, as it was my wish to be carried to Recife. About five o'clock in the afternoon w T e set off; there were sixteen men to bear the hammock by turns, and the manager was likewise in company ; of these per- sons only two were slaves. After we had passed the wood, and had arrived upon a good road, the bearers proceeded at a long walk approach- ing to a run. Their wild chorus, which they sung as they went along, — their mischief in throwing stones at the dogs by the road side, and in abuse, half joking, half wishing for an opportunity of quarrelling, confident in their numbers, and that as they were in the service of a white man he would bring them out of any ANECDOTES. 3i5 scrape ; — was very strange, and had I been less unwell, this journey would have much amused me. As we passed through Olinda, a woman asked my men if they carried a dead body (for it is in this manner that they are brought from a distance for interment). One of the bearers answered, " No, it is the devil * :" and then turning to me, said, " Is it not so, my mas- ter ?" t I said, " Yes," and the good woman walked away, saying, " Ave-Maria, the Lord forbid." t The wind was high and some rain fell, as we crossed the Olinda sands ; we arrived at Recife between nine and ten o'clock. The bearers stopped before we approached the gate- way at the entrance of the town, that each man might, in some way or other, conceal his long, unlawful knife ; without one of these weapons no peasant or great man leaves his home, not- withstanding the prohibition. I became gradually worse, until my recovery was not expected ; but the kind, attentive hand of another Englishman here again was stretched forth. My former friend had left the country, but another supplied his place, and from him I receivd every brotherly kindness. I cannot for- bear mentioning the following circumstances relating to my illness. I went on board an * " Senhora nam, he o Diabo." f " Que diz, men amo?" f " Avc-Maria, Nosso Scnhor nos livrc." ol() ANECDOTES. English merchant-ship, some weeks after my recovery, and on passing a cask which was lying upon the deck, I struck it intentionally, but without any particular object. The master, who was an old gentleman with whom I had come from England, and who had been long acquainted with me, said, " Yes, you would not have it.'* I asked him what he meant, to which he replied, " It was for you, but you gave us the slip this time." I did not yet understand him, so he then continued, — " Why, do you think I would have let you remain among these fellows here, who would not have given you Christian burial ? I intended to have taken you home in that puncheon of rum." I was told by one of my medical attendants when I was recovering, that some old maiden ladies, who lived near to where I resided, had frequently pressed him, whilst I was in a dangerous state, to have the Sacrament brought to me, for they were much grieved that I should die without any chance of salvation. An English merchant of Recife asked my par- ticular friend when the funeral was to take place ; and one of the medical men wrote a note to the same person late one night, enquiring whether his attendance on the following morn- ing had been rendered unnecessary. As soon as I was well enough to remove, I I took a small cottage at the village of Monteiro, that I might have the advantage of better air HORSE-STEALING. 34-7 than that of Recife, and yet not be too far dis- tant from medical advice. Here I passed my time very pleasantly in daily intercourse with a most worthy Irish family, of whom I shall always preserve recollections of gratitude for the kind- ness which I received at that time and on other occasions. On the night of my arrival at Mon- teiro, one of my pack-horses was stolen, but the animal was recognised some weeks afterwards by a boy who was in my service ; the man into whose hands he had fallen happened to pass through the village, and thus I recovered the horse. It is astonishing to what a great extent horse-stealing has been carried, in a country which abounds so much with these animals. It is almost the only species of robbery, for the practising of which regular gangs of men have been discovered to have been for§ned ; but these fellows will sometimes also change to lay hold of a stray ox or cow. * * These practices were, or rather are, at present, carried on in one part of the country with which I am well acquainted. The persons who commit the crimes are white men and of high birth. Among them was a priest. The magistrate of the district in question was applied to by a man who had lost £en acquainted whilst i resided at this place, and who came to see me when I removed to Itamaraca, told me, with much horror pictured in his countenance, of the fate of a man who had worked for me. He said that this person occasionally became a lotos homcm, a wolf man. I asked him to explain, when he said that tie man was at times transformed into an animal of the size of a calf, with the figure of a dog ; that he left his home at mid- THE DWELLING-HOUSE. 351 Much time had been lost, and the cane ought to have been planted for the crop of the fol- lowing year ; the negroes in my possession could not perform what ought to be done in proper time, and therefore I collected free labourers for the purpose ; and in a short period between thirty and forty men, some of whom brought their families, removed on to the lands of the plantation ; and most of them erected hovels of palm-leaves, in which they dwelt ; but a few of them were accommodated with huts of mud. There were Indians, mulattos, free negroes, and slaves working together ; a motley crew. I had now taken up my abode at the house which was usually inhabited by the owner or tenant ; this was a low, but long mud cottage, covered with tiles, and white-washed within and without ; it had bricked floors, but no ceiling. There were two apartments of toler- able dimensions, several small rooms, and a kitchen. The chief entrance was from a sort night in this metamorphosed state, and ran about with the violence of a mad dog, and that he attacked any one whom he might chance to meet. The black man was perfectly persuaded of the correctness of his own statement, when he related having, with his brother-in-law and his sister, met this uncommon beast, near to their own cottages. I suppose it was some large dog which prowled about to satisfy his hunger in the neighbourhood of these habitations ; but no,. the man was persuaded that it was poor Miguel. 352 NOCTURNAL MEETINGS. of square, formed by the several buildings be- longing to the estate. Tn front was the chapel ; to the left was a large dwelling-house unfinished, and the negro huts, a long row of small habi- tations, having much the appearance of alms- houses, without the neatness of places of this description in England ; to the right was the mill worked by water, and the warehouse or barn in which the sugar undergoes the process of claying ; and to the view of these buildings may be added the pens for the cattle, the carts, heaps of timber, and a small pond through which the water runs to the mill. At the back of the house was the large open field, the mill- dam beyond, and cottages, mandioc lands and trees along the valley, bordered on each side by steep hills covered with thick woods. Oftentimes I have sat at night upon the threshhold of the door, after all my people had retired to their habitations ; they have supposed that I was asleep ; then I have heard the whis- perings in the negro huts, and have observed some one leave his house, and steal away to visit an acquaintance, residing at some distance ; or there has been some feast or merry-making, thus late at night, thus concealed. Neighbour- ing negroes have been invited, and have crept in during the evening unperceived. It is on these occasions that plans for deceiving the master are contrived j in these sweet unper- POWER OF THE PLANTERS. 358 mitted meetings, the schemes are formed. Then the slave-owner who is aware of such secret practices, and reflects, must feel of how little avail are all his regulations, all his good management. Restraint creates the wish to act contrary to given rules. The slave has a natural bias to deceive him who holds him in subjection. A man may love the master whom he may at pleasure leave ; but to be tied down, and as a duty enjoined to esteem, fails not in most instances to rouse contrary feelings, to awaken a sense of pleasure rather than of pain, in counteracting the wishes, and in rendering nugatory the determinations of him who com- mands. At other times far different ideas from these have occupied my mind ; I have thought of the strange life I was leading; a remembrance of feudal times in Europe has crossed me, and I could not forbear comparing with them the present state of the interior of Brazil. The great power of the planter, not only over his slaves, but his authority over the free persons of lower rank ; the respect which is required by these barons from the free inhabitants of their lands # ; the assistance which they expect * On Saturdays only, throughout the country, are cattle slaughtered ; and thus weekly many persons of each neigh- bourhood assemble, as much to converse and hear the news as to purchase their portion of meat. On one of these occa- VOL. I. A A 354 POWER OF THE PLANTERS. from their tenants in case of insult from a neigh- bouring equal ; the dependance of the peasants, and their wish to be under the peculiar protec- tion of a person of wealth who is capable of relieving them from any oppression, and of speaking in their behalf to the Governor, or to the chief judge ; all these circumstances com- bined, tend to render the similarity very great. I even felt the power which had unintentionally fallen into my hands. I had collected a con- siderable number of free workmen, and the estate was respected for miles round. Many of these fellows would have committed almost any crime under the impression that my protec- tion would screen them ; and if I had not turned sions, a young man of colour was stooping to arrange upon the end of his walking-stick the meat which he had bought, at the moment that a person of considerable power was riding up. The man of importance, when he came near to the young mulatto, struck him with a long cane with which he rode, saying, " Why don't you take off your hat when a white man appears." The blow was felt severely, and still more severely answered. The man of colour drew his knife, and quickly taming round, ran it hilt-deep into the groin of him by whom he had been insulted ; and then with the bloody knife in his hand, he ran off, vowing destruction upon any one who touched him. The rich man had only time before he died, to direct that the murderer should not be pursued, owning that his own impetuous tyranny had de- servedly produced this catastrophe. The young man returned in a few weeks to his former home, and was not molested by the relatives of him whom he had murdered, nor did the law take cognizance of the deed. POWER OF THE PLANTERS. 355 some away, and threatened others that I would aid the law rather than evade it, should their proceedings be irregular, I know not what evil deeds might not have followed. * * The following anecdote exemplifies the feudal state of the planters a few years ago. It was related to me by a gentleman, upon whose veracity I have every reason to rely. Some fifteen years ago, the Governor of Pernambuco sent for a sergeant of the only regiment of the line which existed at that time, whose courage was well known and much dreaded. He received orders from the Governor to proceed with all expedition possible to the sugar-plantation of Mon- jope, distant from Recife four leagues, for the purpose of taking the owner of that place into custody ; or if he found that his apprehension alive was impracticable, he was then to bring his head to the Governor. The sergeant was desired to pick out as many soldiers as he thought fit to accompany him ; but he said that he should go alone, and consequently the following morning he set forth. On his arrival at Mon- jope, he was received by the owner of the plantation, who was a colonel of militia, or a capitam-mor. Being seated," he quietly made his errand known, showing to the great man the order for his apprehension, and mentioning the additional instructions in case of disobedience. The colonel left the room, but soon returned with a bag containing about the value of 100/. in gold coins, and, presenting this to the ser- geant, told him to return and tell the Governor that he would visit him as soon as possible, and explain to him the circum- stances which had given rise to this mission. The sergeant took the money, and set out on his return ; and by the way bought a sheep, killed it, and then cutting off its head, put this into a bag. On arriving at the palace, he placed his bloody burthen upon the ground, and pointing to it, said to the Governor, " I have executed your commands ; he would not come, and therefore I have brought his head." The Governor, all amazement, answered, " And have you really A A 2 356 MANAGER AT RECIFE. Whilst I was unwell at Recife and Monteiro, the manager and his wife had taken possession of the house ; and here they remained for some time after my return. Thus, I lived literally among these people ; I had indeed my meals alone, but generally two or three of the persons employed upon the plantation were in the room, whilst I breakfasted or dined, and they stood or sat talking to me. Any one reached me a plate or aught else for which I asked, if he happened to be near to what I wanted. The manager and his wife told me many strange tales ; he was a man of feudal stamp, honest and faithful in every respect, from personal regard to the man whom he served, but not in general to the world ; not from a principle of right and wrong. This is very frequently the ease among these people. He was however of the right sort for what I wanted ; and if I was again to travel there, I should seek him out. killed the colonel cf Monjope?" The sergeant replied, " I have only acted according to the orders which I re- ceived." The following morning, what was the astonish- ment of* the Governor, to hear that the colonel of Monjope was in waiting, and wished to see him. He gave him an audience, matters were explained, and they parted good friends. The sergeant was sent for after the departure of the colonel, and on being questioned, told the w hole story, and showed the bag of money. The Governor was dis- pleased, but at the same time ashamed of the rash orders which he had given. The sergeant was however too useful a man to be in disgrace. FESTIVAL OF ST. BENTG. S3' 1 had become somewhat intimate in several families of the neighbourhood ; but was the most amused with my acquaintance in those of se- condary rank, where there is less ceremony than among persons of the first class. In the former, the females often appear, when the visitor is a neighbour, has concerns with the master of the house, and becomes intimate with him. The Festival of St. Bento was to be celebrated about the close of the year in the adjoining plantation, belonging to the monks of whom he is the patron saint. The convent is at Olinda, and there the abbot resides; the fraternity is rich, possessing much landed property. Upon the estate adjoining to Jaguaribe, mandioc, maize, rice, and other articles of food are cul- tivated, with which the convent is supplied. The slaves upon it are in number about one hundred, of all ages ; and the last African died whilst I resided in that part of the country. The festival, at which I intended to be present, was to our Lady of the Rosary, the patroness of negroes. The expense which was to be incurred was subscribed for by the slaves of the estate, and the festival was entirely managed by them. Three friars attended to officiate at the aitar ; but the lights, the fire-works, and all other necessary articles were provided for by a committee of the slaves. The manager of the estate was a mulatto slave, who made me a visit aa 3 35S FESTIVAL OF ST. BENTO. upon my arrival at Jaguaribe, and on the occa- sion of the festival came to invite me to the novena and to the festa fthe nine previous evenings and the festival) ; or rather he came to request that I would not fail to go, as he feared that my people and his might quarrel. I went with a large party of men and women : we ascended the hill, and on our arrival at its summit, I was invited by one of the black women to enter her cottage, the same invitation being made to several other persons of our party. The chapel is placed quite upon the highest point of the hill ; and the house in which the friars dwell, when they come to the estate, and the row of negro huts, form a semi-circle about it, thus in part inclosing the chapel. These habitations look down upon the broad river of Maria Farinha, winding below among the man- groves, and there are several creeks on the op- posite side, which look like so many branches. The crowd which had assembled was consi- derable, and was not a little increased by my free workmen ; some of whom were unmarried men, unencumbered, and ready for any mis- chief. I was armed witli a long pike and the large knife of the country ; and had brought three of my slaves, accoutred much in the same manner, — three resolute Africans, upon whom I could depend, and whose business it w r as closely to watch their master. Before the com- FESTIVAL OF ST. BENTO. 359 mencement of the prayers and singing in the chapel, the black people extended several mats upon the ground in the open air ; and our party sat down upon them to converse and to eat cakes and sweatmeats, of which many kinds were exposed for sale in great abundance. All went on quietly for three nights, for the mulatto manager forbad the sale of rum ; but on the fourth night some liquor unfortunately found its way up the hill, and Nicolau, the manager, came in haste to inform me that a few of my Indians were earnestly bent on quarrelling with a party of his people. I rose from the mat upon which I had been seated, and followed by my body guard, accompanied him back to the spot, where I soon saw that a fight had commenced j persuasion was of no avail, and therefore my negroes made use of the butt-ends of their pikes, and brought an Indian to the ground, who was. delivered over to Sim^n, one of my fellows > and I desired the two slaves who remained to assist the St. Bento negroes. I thus proved, that 1 would not uphold my own people if they acted irregularly ; and the matter fortunately ended with only some trifling bruises, and one broken head. The Indian was conveyed home by Simam, who returned to tell me that he had plaeed the man in the stocks, with the intent of sobering him. No more quarrels were en- tered into ; for this affair quite sickened all a a 4 360 NEGROES OF ST. BENTO. those who might have been so inclined. In the morning the Indian was set at liberty, and he quietly went off to his work, not being much the worse. I had great pleasure in witnessing the most excellent arrangements of this plantation ; the negroes are as happy as persons in a state of slavery can be ; but although the tasks are, com- paratively speaking, easy, and corporal punish- ments are only resorted to for children, still the great object at which they aim is to be free, and to purchase the freedom of their children. * One man, who was a fisherman by trade, had obtained the manumission of his wife, though lie was still a slave himself, with the intent that if she should still have any more children, they might be free ; and he purposed afterwards purchasing his own freedom, and that of his young ones. Several instances of the same be- haviour arefrequentlyocwirring upon the estates belonging to these and other friars. Thus every one wishes to be a free agent ; and it is this feeling alone which makes a St. Bento negro do all in his power to be able to act for himself; for very probably he may be obliged to labour with more diligence to obtain his living as a free * Slaves are permitted to purchase their own freedom, on tendering to the master the sum of money which he originally gave for them. But I shall presently speak more at large of /his law and of slavery, as it exists in Brazil. ANOTHER FESTIVAL. 3()1 man than as a slave. The emancipated negro oftentimes becomes an excellent member of society, for he contracts habits of industry, in which he continues ; but again, if he has been hardly treated by a rigorous master, he becomes disgusted with, and indifferent to life, is ren- dered callous to shame, and drags on an idle, miserable existence. Another festival was to take place at one of the chapels upon the coast, which is dedicated to our Lady of the Conception. This was distant one league and a half from Jaguaribe ; however, we formed a party and mounted our horses one moonlight evening ; the females riding behind their husbands and relations, with a sheet or counterpane thrown over the horse's haunches, upon which they sat. We came out upon the sea-shore at the church of our Lady of the O. (of which I shall presently speak,) not far from the Fort of Pao Amarello, and from thence proceeded along the sands to the place of our destination. I was introduced to the family of an old Portuguese who resided here ; his son had just taken orders as a secular priest, and was to say his first mass on the day of the festival. There were puppet-shows, tumblers, and all their attendants in great abundance ; fireworks and bonfires, noise, bustle, and no lack of quarrelling. Within the chapel there 36 c 2 COCO-TREE. was a display of wax tapers, praying, singing, and music, as is usual. The assemblage of persons was very consi- derable ; indeed wherever the surf is not violent, the sea-shore is well-peopled, along the whole extent of coast between Olinda and the bar of the river Goiana ; in many parts the low straw huts are united, or nearly so, in long rows for half a mile together. White-washed cottages with tiled roofs are frequently interspersed ; churches and chapels have been built, and few- intervals of much extent remain unpeopled. The lands are planted with the coco-trees, which is the most profitable plant of Brazil * ; the coco-tree appears to be adapted to the sandy soil of the coast, upon which only very few others will vegetate ; here it flourishes and seems to derive nourishment from its vicinity to the sea, but when it is situated in rich land the the coco-tree droops, and even upon the sandy plains of the interior it does not bear its fruit with the same luxuriance, or reach that height which it attains when exposed to the sea-breeze. These coco-groves, through which the eye can reach for miles, with the hovels composed entirely of the leaves of these trees spread among them, form in some parts very pic- turesque views ; and if, as frequently occurs, * Vide Appendix tor a farther account of the coco-tree. 8 ■1 CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE O. 363 the cottage is situated upon the border of a vvood, just where the cocos end, and the dark green foliage of the forest-trees is seen behind, then the view is even romantic ; and if the wind is high, the rustling of the coco- trees, and the dashing of the waves, increase much the wildness of the scene. However, to return. As soon as the church- service was ended we mounted our horses, and rode back to Our Lady of the O. We alighted at a cottage which stood near to the church, the inhabitants of which were acquainted with some of our party ; the moon was bright and the breeze moderate. We sat down upon mats before the door, and were regaled with quanti- ties of young coco-nuts, a most delightful fruit when they are in this state. Some of us walked down towards the beach ; the tide was out, and I observed several large blocks of hewn stone, partly buried in the sand, below high water-mark. I enquired what had caused them to be there, and was answered, that a church had formerly stood upon that spot ; and I heard then, and afterwards often saw, that the sea was making considerable encroachments along the coast, to the distance of half a league or more each way. The new church of Our Lady of the O. was now building, at the distance of about three hundred yards from the shore. Strange tales are told of the miraculous deeds 364 CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE O. of this lady. When the church was about to be rebuilt, many of the landholders of the neigh- bourhood were desirous of having the edifice upon their ground ; this proceeded from a reli- gious feeling. Lots were drawn to determine upon the site of the new church, and although manifestly inconvenient, from many causes, it has been erected upon the spot where it now stands, because the same lot was drawn three times. A very great objection, and one which in common cases would have been insurmount- able, is, that this is the lowest piece of land in the neighbourhood, and is opposite to the place upon which the sea is making the most rapid advances. Water, too, for mixing the lime and sand, must have been conveyed from a consi- derable distance ; but a spring of it gushed forth at the moment that one of the labourers was making preparations for the commencement of his work, and since the capella-mor\ or prin- cipal chapel, has been built, all kinds of dis- eases are said to be cured. The fame of this most powerful lady has reached far and wide, and from the interior to the distance of 150 leagues, persons who were afflicted with disor- ders which had been considered incurable by human means, have come down to make their offerings to this avaricious personage, whose powerful intercession is not to be obtained MIRACULOUS CURES. 36*5 unless she is in return well paid for her trouble. * As the road from the Sertam to the sea-shore was by Jaguaribe, I saw many of the travellers y I conversed with many wealthy persons, whose sole errand was to offer part of their possessions, upon condition of relief from the malady under which they suffered. The patrimony of this church is now considerable, from the numerous donations which have been made ; some of these have been advanced on credit, the donors being fully confident of repayment in the manner which they desire ; others have been made, owing to the persons who gave them having been really cured ; — faith has done what medi- cine could not do. Such has been the reliance upon the efficacy of the prayers which were offered up, and upon the power of the Lady, that the probability of disappointment has never occurred to them - y and when the disorder pro- ceeds more from the imagination than from the body, 1 should suppose that a cure may be effected, much in the same manner that in other countries cures are said to be performed by me- dicinal waters j of which, although the qualities • An old Portuguese, whose faith in the intercession of saints could not be very strong, being asked for alms to assist in the decoration of an image, refused to give any thing, and added, " The saints are in a much better situation than 1 am ; they don't want any assistance from me."' 366 MIRACULOUS CURES. may be very excellent, yet the name may sur- pass the reality, in bringing about the desired end. The miracles of Our Lady of the O. are performed in three ways — by prayer from the patient, — by drinking the water of the spring, or by application of some of it to the part affect- ed, — and by eating, or outwardly applying, a small quantity of the salt which oozes from the wall against which the High Altar stands. * A * I insert the following passage from No. 32d of Dr. Thomson's Annals of Philosophy, p. 138. It is given for the purpose of acquainting the supporters of our Lady of the O., that salt oozes from walls in an heretical, as well as in a Catholic country : " The formation of nitre upon calcareous stones in certain situations has been long known, and advantage has been taken of it to procure that important salt in great quantities; though no satisfactory theory of the formation of the salt itself has yet been offered to the public. The present paper contains a set of observations on the appearance of an efflor- escence of salt-petre on the walls of the Ashmole laboratory at Oxford, a large ground room, sunk below the area of the street. The walls are built of Oxford lime-stone, a granular floetz lime-stone, containing many fragments of shells, of vegetable bodies, and composed of 96 carbonate of lime, and 4 of ochrey sand. The salt formed was nearly pure, though it contained traces of lime and of sulphuric and muriatic acids. What was formed in winter contained most lime. The formation of this salt was most rapid in frosty weather ; it formed slowly, and the quantity even diminished in moist weather after it had been deposited. Exclusion from the air did not preclude the deposition of the salt, though it di- minished it considerably." P. 70. — The paper, of which the above is an analysis, is by John Kidd, M.D. professor of chemistry in Oxford. MIRACULOUS CURES. 367 village has risen up around the church, com- posed of huts for the sick, who have journeyed far from other districts. The business has com- pletely succeeded, the money which was requir- ed for rebuilding the church has been obtained, and when I came away the concern was going on prosperously. I heard the remark made by some firm believers, that such was the sin- fulness of the inhabitants of the vicinity, that the Lady had scarcely vouchsafed to perform any cures upon them. The wonderful stories of cures were always of persons who lived in remote districts ; but I did meet with a few cases in which fancied illness from lowness of spirits was removed. The general credulity of the lower orders of people, and even of many individuals of the higher ranks, is beyond all belief; no persuasion, no reasoning is of any service ; even a doubt of the truth of every story which is told is not admitted. * From hence we proceeded to pay another visit. The owner of this cottage had no cocos * Some time ago a wooden figure was brought up out of the sea in a fisherman's net ; it was deposited in a place of safety, and was on inspection, by some person who was judged competent to decide upon the subject, declared to be an image or" St. Luke ; it was removed to a church, and has taken its place as a representative of that saint. Now, I have heard it whispered, that this said St. Luke is no more than the figure-head of some unfortunate vessel which had been cast away, or that the figure had been broken off by a violent wave. I I 368 DEATH OF A FEMALE SLAVE. to offer, but he would have dressed some fish, and he gave us some wild fruits. The sail of a jangada was extended for us, and we laid down for some time to converse. At a late hour we set off" homewards, and from carelessness lost our way ; we wandered through the paths of the woods of Maranguape, until we judged (rightly, as it happened) that we were ia the road which would lead us to Jaguaribe. There was much merriment notwithstanding the dis- aster, for we knew that day-light would end our difficulties, and it was now past two o'clock. The mill was continually at work ; I usually took the first watch, and superintended the business until midnight ; several of my neigh- bours and their families came to amuse them- selves in conversation, and others came for the purpose of eating sugar-cane, of which every one who has tasted must be fond. About this time a female slave died in child- bed who was generally regretted. She was a good servant, and an excellent wife and mother. The grief of her husband bore much the appear- ance of insanity ; he would not cat until the following day, and then he only tasted food from the persuasion of one of his children. Until the time of my departure from Pernam- buco, he had not recovered his former spirits, and he never spoke of his wife without tears in his eyes. Even some of the other slaves were, MULATTO MARRIAGE. 369 for a few days after her death, unsettled ; the rude instruments upon which they were in the habit of playing in the evening at their doors, were laid aside ; — all merriment was disconti- nued for some time. I was requested about this period to be bride's- man at the marriage of a mulatto couple. I agreed, and on the day appointed, set forth for Paratibi, accompanied by a free servant and a slave on horseback. I arrived about ten o'clock, and found a large party of people of colour assembled ; the priest soon arrived, and he too was of the same cast. Breakfast of meat and piram (a paste made offarinha) was placed upon the table ; some part of the company sat down and ate, others stood, doing the same, and others again, as if they were afraid of losing a minute's conversation, continued to talk loudly, and without ceasing. I have witnessed few such scenes of confusion. At last we proceeded to the church, to which I begged to be permitted to ride, for the distance was considerable, and I was somewhat lame from an accident ; as soon as the ceremony was over, we returned to the house. The bride was of a dark brown colour, for her father was a negro, and her mother of mixed blood ; she was dressed in a rose-coloured silk gown, and a black veil was thrown over her head and shoulders ; she wore white shoes and white stockings with open clocks. The bride- VOL. I. BB 370 COCK MASS. groom was also of dark colour ; he wore a coat of brown cloth, a waistcoat of brocaded silk, and nankeen pantaloons ; he had on shoes with large buckles, and a cocked hat. Both of these per- sons were young, and they seemed to be dread- fully hampered with the increased stock of appa- rel which they carried. The scene at dinner was a counterpart of the breakfast affair, with the addition of more noise and more confusion, which were caused by a larger assemblage of people, and more plentiful draughts of wine and rum. I escaped as soon as possible ; but would not on any account have missed being present at this day's work. On the night of Christmas eve, I did not go to-bed ; for we were to hear the Missa do Gallo, or cock mass, as is customary. The priest arrived, and the night was spent merrily. This person did not at that time come regularly as a chaplain, but he was so engaged afterwards. ( 371 ) CHAP. XII. JOURNEY TO UNINHA. CONTINUATION OF MY RESI- DENCE AT JAGUARIBE. NEGRO BROTHERHOOD OF OLINDA. — BLESSING THE SUGAR AVORKS. — MAN- DINGUEIROS AND VALENTOENS. A BOUT the middle of January, 1813, I went to stay for some days at the cottage of an acquaintance, who resided upon the plain of Barbalho, for the purpose of purchasing a few horses. This place is near to the village of Monteiro ; but it is on the opposite side of the river. Barbalho is a plain of some extent, upon which cattle are turned out to feed ; the soil of it is a stiff dark-coloured clay, and the grass which grows upon it is of a coarse species ; this becomes quite dry during the summer-months, and when in this state it is set on fire, that the tender shoots which again spring up may serve as food for the animals that are to graze upon it. The fire will run along the ground, urged by a fresh breeze ; it will sometimes contract, and at others spread each way, presenting to the be- holders a fiery wall. The sight is grand ; it is upon a large scale, which gives to it a terrific appearance. The inhabitants of the skirts of this plain carefully preserve a circle around their b b 2 372 THE VARZEA. houses and gardens, clear of vegetation ; appre- hensive of some inconsiderate traveller who may chance to light his pipe as he goes along, and throw away unextinguished the fire-stick of which he has made use. The person with whom I was staying per- suaded me to ride with him to the sugar-planta- tion of Uninha, which is distant six leagues to the southward of Barbalho ; he described the place as being very beautiful, and I consented. This was the only opportunity which conve- niently offered itself of seeing the country in this direction ; but I much regret not having made greater exertions to visit the southern districts of Pernambuco. We passed through the hamlet and by the parish-church of the Varzea. A considerable extent of country is known under this name, containing some of the finest cane lands of the province, which are owned by men of wealthy who know the value of what they possess, and consequently the plantations are in a flourishing condition. The Varzea is famous in Pernambucan history, as the site of a great deal of righting. Camaragibe, which is in the vicinity, or rather a part of the Varzea, and is spoken of by the historian of that country, is now a flourishing sugar-plantation,* * I am not certain of the situation of the Monte das Tabocas, where one of the chief battles was fought between the Portuguese and the Dutch in 1645 History of Brazil CAMASARI. 373 We reached the sugar-plantation of Camasari, belonging to the Carmelite friars ; it is in high order, that is, the slaves and cattle are in good condition, and every thing upon it appeared cheerful ; but it does not yield so much produce as it might, if the strength of the labourers was pushed to the utmost. I looked into the mill, which is turned by water, and saw some hand- some mulatto girls feeding the mill with cane ; they were dressed in petticoats of printed cotton, and smocks of cambric muslin, and they wore upon their necks and in their ears gold orna- ments; they were singing in parts very tolerably. The difference between the plantations which belong to convents, and those which are pos- sessed by individuals who reside upon them, and have a direct interest in every trifling increase or decrease of the gains, is very striking. The estates of friars are worked almost exclusively by negroes who have been born upon them ; every thing goes on easily and regularly. If much is made, the better satisfied is the chief for the time being ; but if, on the contrary, little is ob- tained, still the affairs of the community go on. vol. ii. p. 108. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family ; but as I was acquainted with him and several other persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would have been mentioned, if this had been the place. BB 3 374 UNINHA. We proceeded, and at some distance beyond, descended from a high hill into a narrow valley, which was completely embosomed by the emi- nences around, and so enclosed that we appeared to intrude upon its inhabitants in crossing this spot of their retirement. The grass upon the hills was dry ; but all below was yet in full health. At length we arrived at the plantation of Uninha, which is situated upon an extensive field, composed of uneven ground ; and watered by several springs. The mill is turned by oxen, which is a late improvement ; horses being usually employed where water cannot be obtained. We dined with the owner, and he returned with us to Barbalho in the afternoon. I was much de- lighted with the day's amusement. This was the most beautiful part of the country which I visited, taken as a whole. The hills and the vallies are not high or extensive, but they are decidedly marked. Here cultivation formed a considerable feature in the country, the cane lands were extensive, and the mills for its ma- nufacture into sugar numerous. On my return from Uninha, I wished still to remain at Barbalho for a few days, and therefore the owner of the cottage at which I was staying went on to Jaguaribe, to re- main there until I could join him. I staid with Manoel and Simam. One morning Manoel had gone to cut a bundle of grass, and on his SLAVE Q.UARREL. 375 return met with an old acquaintance, a Creole negro ; they quarrelled by the way, and as they came near to where I was residing, the matter be- came serious, and blows were given and received, both of the men being armed with long poles. Simam saw this, took up a drawn sword which was lying upon a chair, and ran out to assist his comrade. I went out to put a stop to the busi- ness, and discovered that Simam had cut an enormous gash in the fellow's head ; the man was brought into the cottage, and his wound was dressed. An acquaintance 0/ mine happened now to come in, and he took charge of the negro, and carried him home to his master. The negro was taking a load of grass for the Go- vernor's horses, who was residing at Monteiro, which is within half a mile of the site of these transactions. Notice would have been taken of the affair immediately, owing to the circum- stance of the negro being employed for the Go- vernor, if His Excellency had not been informed that the offending negroes (for such I consider mine to have been) belonged to an Englishman, upon which no more enquiry was made ; and as it was discovered that the master had nothing to do with the affray, no cognizance was taken of the matter by the military power. If the owner of the wounded slave had chosen so to do, he might have put me to much expense and trouble, for he might have accused my negroes of as- bb4 376 COMMANDANT FROM THE SERTAM. saulting his ; but the law of itself seldom does any thing. Even in cases of murder the prose- cutor, or accuser as he is called, has it at his option to bring the trial forwards or not ; if he can be bribed or otherwise persuaded to give up ithe accusation, the matter drops to the ground. Thus the spirit of law is changed, from the principle of bringing an offender to justice for the general good of society, to that of prose- cuting in revenge for the crime which he has committed against an individual. Soon after my return to Jaguaribe, I was one evening surprised at the arrival of a white man, who was habited in uniform of blue and red, and accompanied by a great number of loaded horses, and of men, who were dressed in leather after the manner of the Sertam ; he delivered to me a letter, which I discovered not to be for me, but for an Englishman who was occasionally with me ; however, I of course requested him to stay, and gave directions for the accommoda- tion of his followers. He was a commandant from the interior,' distant ISO leacues. in the back settlements of the province of Paraiba, at the foot of the Serra do Teixiera. He had put on board of jangadas at Paraiba a considerable quantity of cotton, which he had brought down from his estate, and he was now travelling to Recife for the purpose of receiving it, and of purchasing necessaries or rather luxuries for his COMMANDANT FROM THE SERTAM. 377 family ; to which he appeared to be extremely attached. We soon became intimate, and when he proceeded to Recife at the close of a few days, he left some of his men and horses at Ja- guaribe. It is among the inhabitants of places so remote as the district from which he came, that clanship more particularly exists. He had with him ten persons, most of whom were his compadres, that is, the commandant was sponsor to one of the children of each. This relation- ship is accounted very sacred in Brazil, and I believe in all Roman Catholic countries ; it is a bond of brotherhood, which permits the poor man to speak to his superior with a kind of endearing familiarity, and unites them in links of union, of which the non-observance would be sacrile- gious. The commandant made me several visits from Recife, and after a delay of two months, he set off on his return homewards. He was a man of most determined spirit, whose name is respected all over the part of the country which he inhabits ; and this respect was produced by his wealth and individual character, which brooks no insult ; and yet there was a natural goodness in his nature, which broke forth very strongly when he showed me the letters which he had received from his children, each of them, even to the youngest, having written to him. He had lately lost his wife ; his manner of speaking of her was most affectionate. He told 378 ANECDOTE OF A BRAZILIAN OFFICER. me, that he had some intention of taking orders as a secular priest. Soon after the commandant left me, the fol- lowing occurrence took place hard by, which is characteristic of the state of the country, and similar to what frequently happens ; although this of which I am about to speak might have been avoided, if the actors in it had been a little older, and a little less hot-headed. A young man who resided in this neighbourhood had been lately ap- pointed to hold a military situation in the district, of which he was proud, and owing to which he had assumed an additional degree of personal im- portance. He possessed a high-spirited horse, and would sometimes turn him loose, although he had no fenced field into which he could put him. The animal soon found out the cane land of an adjoining estate, and destroyed, consider- ably, the young plants ; from hence he would open the gate of the field, (which from the man- ner that the gates of plantations are usually made, it was very easy for him to do,) and would come and offer battle to some of the hard worked horses. This was often repeated, notwithstand- ing that the animal had been caught each time, and sent home with a request that this might not again occur. However, at last one of the beasts of the estate was lamed by the horse, and rendered unfit for service, at least for some time. The owner was much vexed, and as one of his .SERIOUS FRACAS. 379 slaves was about to carry a message to some distance, he told him to ride the officer's horse. He went, — and the owner was informed of this ; he waylaid the slave, and took the horse from him. The planter heard the next day, that the officer had expressed to many persons a wish to meet him, however no notice was taken of this. As he rode on the following morning to see his workmen, he saw the captain in the path on horseback talking to a mulatto man. The planter spoke to him, saying that he wished to pass, which he could not do unless he moved, and mentioning at the same time that he was in- formed of his wish to see him. The captain spurred his horse towards his adversary, attempt- ing at the same moment to draw his sword ; but this he did not do with ease, from some entangle- ment of the belt. The other man drew his, which was inclosed in a walking-stick, and rode up to him, putting the point close to his breast, thus showing him how easily he might by this unforeseen advantage have taken his life. The mulatto man had now recovered from his asto- nishment, and ran in between the horses, striking them and driving them asunder. They still remained for some minutes in high words ; but the captain had not, as was afterwards well known, supposed that the other was armed, and therefore his ardour for the combat had now cooled considerably. 380 -DANCES. The Indians who were in my service occa- sionally requested leave to dance in front of my dwelling; I usually complied, and was often much amused. A large fire was made, that we might the better see what was going on ; and that the evening might be rendered more enter- taining, I frequently invited some of my neigh- bours. The dance commenced by two men stepping forwards, and walking round and round, taking a circuit of a few yards ; one of them singing, or rather reciting in a low voice some ditty of his own language, and the other playing upon a shrill pipe; and as they went on, at intervals they gave a hop or a skip ; soon, a woman joined them, and walked after them, and then another man came forwards, and so forth, until a large ring was formed and the pace was quickened. It was always expected that some liquor should be prepared for them, and each of these persons, as they felt inclined to take any of it, stepped out of the ring, and re- turned again as soon as they had drank. They continued dancing as long as any rum was pro- duced, the women as well as the men relishing this, their means of inspiration ; for as the quan- tities were increased, some new song was intro- duced, the tones became louder, and their arti- culation more rapid. Thefree people of colour, too, would sometimes dance ; but they only asked permission of me, NEGRO BROTHERHOOD. 381 and held their merry-making at the door of one of their own huts. Their dances were like those of the African negroes. A ring was formed ; the guitar player sat down in a corner, and began a simple tune, which was accompanied by some favourite song, of which the burthen was often repeated, and frequently some of the verses were extempore, and contained indecent allusions. One man stepped out into the centre of the ring, and danced for some minutes, making use of lascivious attitudes, until he singled out a woman, who then came forwards, and took her turn in movements not less indecent, and thus the amusement continued sometimes until day- break. The slaves would also request to be permitted to dance ; their musical instruments are extremely rude : one of them is a sort of drum, which is formed of a sheep skin, stretched over a piece of the hollowed trunk of a tree ; and another is a large bow with one string, having half of a coco-nut shell or of a small gourd Strang upon it. This is placed against the abdomen, and the string is struck with the ringer, or with a small bit of wood. When two holidays followed each other uninterruptedly, the slaves would continue their noise until day- break. I have now to enter upon an affair which gave me much trouble. The lands belonging to the negro brotherhood of Olinda were verv conve- 382 NEGRO BROTHERHOOD. niently situated for Jaguaribe, and for another plantation not far distant, which was owned by an old man of colour, who harboured around him a numerous clan of relations and dependants. It was arranged that we should rent these lands equally ; but to prevent competition, one of us only was to apply for them, and then they were to be divided. The owner of the plantation in question was to make the application, and I rested satisfied ; but I was surprised to discover, that I run much risk of remaining without any part of them ; therefore I began to make arrange- ments for obtaining them for myself. Whilst the matter was yet in doubt, a person who was under the protection of the rival plantation, sent a number of negroes to work upon some land which lay very near to Jaguaribe. I sent a message to the owner of these men, purporting that the land was tenanted by a person of my acquaintance, who yearly rented it from the brotherhood, and therefore I requested him to direct that his slaves should retire. This he refused to do ; consequently I collected a num- ber of my free workmen, and rode towards the spot in question ; the matter had become serious, and as he was aware that if a scuffle ensued, he might lose the service of a slave, whilst I who was accompanied by free men, would not sus- tain any loss, he gave the desired directions, and I returned home. NEGRO BROTHERHOOD. 383 I gained my object of renting the lands through the interest of some persons who were intimately acquainted with the principal officers of the brotherhood. I attended at the council-table of these black directors, and heard the argu- ments for and against the policy of placing the whole of the property in the hands of one per- son ; however the matter was decided as soon as one of them rose up, and reminded the rest that the community was in debt, and that the new tenant was prepared with one year's rent in advance. All objection was silenced by this speech, and the papers were signed without any farther remark. The black gentlemen came down to Jaguaribe to put me in possession of the lands. I had invited several of my friends on this occasion, and blacks and whites all sat down and ate together ; the health of our Lady of the Rosary was drank first ; then that of the chief of the brotherhood and of the new tenant. These fellows amused us much ; for their polite- ness to each other, and to the white persons who were present sat awkwardly upon them ; but was displayed to show the importance which they imagined themselves to possess. The Jiriz or chief of the brotherhood was a shoe-maker at Olinda, and the rest were of the same rank in life, more or less. Possession was given to me, and every thing unpleasant seemed to have subsided ; when one 384 MIDNIGHT ASSASSINS. night late, a mulatto man, who resided at .) t - guaribe, knocked at my door, and told me that he had just arrived from a visit to a neighbour- ing cottage, and that on the way three men had come out upon him, and had commanded him to stop ; but on seeing him alone, they had retreated. I had had some intimation of what I was to expect, and immediately supposed by whom these persons must have been sent, and for whom the blow was intended. I called two Indians and my faithful slave Manoel, and ac- companied by these, and the mulatto man who had given me the information, I set off' towards the spot. They were gone, — but we pursued ; however, before we reached the nearest plan- tation, we heard the heavy gate of its field shut to ; therefore it was useless to proceed farther, for the persons, whosoever they were, had reached a place of safety. Upon this path re- sided the families of the neighbourhood with whom I was the most intimate, and it was well known that I sometimes returned home at a late hour. This was a turbulent district in which I had fixed my residence. Some of the owners of the plantations around were perpe- tually squabbling, and I had been led into the same way of proceeding ; indeed, if I had not done so, I should have been trampled upon. The slaves of Paulistas and of Timbo were con- stantly at war ; and the owners of the plant- MIDNIGHT ASSASSINS. 385 utions of Timbd and Jenipapeiro were likewise with law-suits always pending, and their de- pendants never easy. Some districts are in a quieter state than others, but very few are totally without disturbance ; and there are few plantations in any part of the province about the boundaries of the lands of which more than one law-suit has not been entered into.* * At the distance of twenty leagues or more from Recife, there resided formerly the Padre Pedro, upon the sugar plantation of Agua Azul, or the blue water. He had ob- tained a grant from the Crown, of the surrounding lands, of one square league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a high hill, the summit of which was only to be reached by a serpentine road which he had made with great labour. The sugar-works were likewise upon the hill, and the field around the eminence was inclosed by a deep and broad ditch, and a thick hedge on the outside. The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in a very wild state ; the woods were extensive, and almost impenetrable. The disposition of the priest was as wild as the country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from the regiments of the line, and all persons who had committed crimes in supporting the in- sulted honour of their families, in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion, were received by him ; but he did not afford protection to the thief. The fellows who were harboured by him inhabited the woods around the field, and some of them had erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus forming a line of communi- cation ; so that with a whistle or a conch, soon were assembled at his door forty or fifty men, who were prepared to perform any service of whatever description he might name ; because they well knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his aid would be given in the law's support. To injure the priest or any of his satellites, was followed by destruction to the VOL. I. C C 3S&- STIPEND TO THE PRIEST. ;I was often reminded by many of my new acquaintances, that every plantation ought to have a chaplain ; and I was told, that without a doubt all those persons who attended to hear offending person. He was, however, in the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings ; for although the govern- ment might not be able to destroy his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power. The priest was once sent for by a late governor of the province ; he obeyed, and brought with him a considerable number of his determined followers ; he dismounted, and ascended the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people, who remained below, that no person should be permitted to enter after him. The Governor complained to him of his avowed practice of har- bouring deserters ; to which the priest replied, that he thought His Excellency was aware of the inutility of speaking to him upon that subject ; and having said this he immediately left the room, mounted his horse, and proceeded homewards without molestation. Another anecdote of this strange man was communicated to me by a person who had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs, arrived at Agua Azul, and served a writ for debt upon him ; the priest received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards he ordered some of his people to take these two men and harness them in the mill (which was then at work) in the places of two of the horses (eight of these are employed at the same time). He then ordered that the works should go on, and that a negro boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist in its movement; there they remained for some minutes, until half dead with fatigue and fear, he turned them loose, and told them to relate to their employer the manner in which they had been treated, threatening to do the same to him, if he could obtain possession of his person. The priest MARANGUAPE. 387 mass, would contribute towards the payment of the priest, as is customary. I spoke to a young man of this profession for the purpose, and he attended every Sunday and holiday j but when he was dismissed, at the time I was preparing to leave the place, I was left to pay him entirely myself; every one was poor and unable to assist when the day of payment came. This was only what I expected ; but I thought it was right to follow the usual custom of having mass said regularly, on account of the slaves. In April I arranged with the tenant of the lands which lie to the eastward of Jaguaribe, and are called Maranguape, to allow me to turn loose upon them all my cattle during the rainy season ; for the field of the plantation was not sufficiently large to support so great a number of animals, during the whole year, as the work which was performed upon it required. The lands upon which I intended the cattle to re- main are about one league in length, and of about half the breadth. Part of them are under had a considerable number of blood-hounds, which were usually unchained, and were lying about the house; thus rendering dangerous an approach to his dwelling. The ani- mals were well trained, for a call from their master was sufficient to make them lie still, and allow of the advance of a stranger. This person died only a few years ago ; but as I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters in Brazil i6 fast going by. C C 2 388 M ARAN GL APE. water in the rainy season, and in other places they were covered with woods ; but these were, for the most part to be entered even on horse- back, owing to the cattle feeding in them, and beating down the brushwood: It was astonish- ing to see in how short a period the cattle which had been accustomed to labour, became wild and comparatively fierce. I was in the habit of going occasionally with another person, both of us being on horseback, to collect the animals for the purpose of seeing that none were missing ; we had many hard chaces after them, and got many blows from the branches of the trees, &c. One of the oxen was in the habit of invariably going into a bog when we appeared, and after having proceeded to a cer- tain distance, he would turn round and look at us with apparent unconcern, and as if he was conscious that we could not reach him. This circumstance makes me recollect another which occurred with one of my pack-horses. The animal escaped from Jaguaribe, and was not for a long time heard of; but. at last I enquired of an old black man, who said that he saw him every day. The horse fed upon some lands which produced excellent grass, but the only water in the neighbourhood was to be obtained from a well or hole, of which the entrance was narrow, and the water considerably below the surface. The negro said, that one day he found JLLIO. 389 the horse near to the well, but unable to reach the water ; he gave him some, out of a half gourd, which the old man carried with him, for the purpose of throwing water over his own head, in default of a better bath. The following day the horse was there, and this continued for weeks ; but although he had attempted to put his hand upon his neck, the horse never allowed him to seize his mane. He was caught at last by two men, mounted on very swift-going horses, whom I sent for the purpose. A short time after the cattle had been at Maranguape, I agreed with an Indian to go and stay there, for the purpose of taking care of them. This man was in my debt for cloth- ing, and for a gold chain which he had given to his wife. He came to me a few days after his removal, asking leave to go to his former place of residence, which was at some distance, and to take his family with him. I understood what this meant ; he would never have returned, and therefore I answered that he might go if he thought proper, but must leave some pledge for the payment of the debt. This he promised to do. Julio, who had been with me on my journey to Seara, was again in my service. He now displeased me exceedingly, for he too, led astray by this fellow, wished to leave me ; Julio had been accused of some petty thefts, with which J now taxed him j he denied having committed cc 3 390 FRANCISCO JOZE. them, and that he was innocent I verily believe. However I did not think so then, consequently this circumstance, and his wish to leave me with a man whom I knew to be very unprin- cipled, for I had lately had information respect- ing him from other quarters ; and above all, the suspicion that they had come at an hour when few persons were about me, under the impression that being alone I should be induced to accede to their demands, caused us to part on bad terms. They went their way towards Maran- guape, and I had some hopes that all would have continued quite. However in the after- noon, about half an hour before the close of the day, the manager came to tell me that Francisco Joze, the Indian who was in my debt, had passed through the field, accompanied by his wife, Julio, and a number of other Indians. Thus he had determined to go in defiance of any right which I might have to his services, or to demand payment of what he owed me, and in breach of promise given to me only a few hours before. Several other labourers were also indebted to me, and if this man was, with- out remark, permitted to make his own terms, I knew not who might choose to do likewise. My horse was brought out; I beckoned to Manoel, my constant companion, and calling to some freemen, who had returned from their work, and were now talking together in a FRANCISCO JOZE. 391 groupe; Isaid, " Who follows me ?" A black carpenter, a white brickmaker, a mulatto carrier, and a labourer of the same cast, and likewise another slave, stepped forwards. Thus accom- panied by six able men, including Manoel, who were all on foot, I set oft' on horseback at a round pace, knowing that in ascending the hill, they would pass me. The hill being surmounted; 1 again pushed on, and when I arrived at the short but steep declivity which overlooks the plantation of Inhaman, I saw three men below, and heard the shrill Indian pipe. I looked back and saw that the carpenter and brickmaker had alone kept pace with me, and I know not how they were able so do do. I cried out, " Yonder are some of the party." At the same moment, Monte, the brickmaker, fairly leapt down the steep declivity, and passed my horse ; we de- scended upon the men, but were disappointed in discovering that, although they were Indians, they were not those which we sought. Now we waited for the remainder of our party, who soon came up, and we returned quietly by another path towards home. On our arrival at the gate of Jaguaribe, I was informed that the party had quartered itself in a corner of the field, in and about the hut of another Indian ; to this place we now directed our steps. Francisco Joze himself came out to speak to me, and soon se- veral others placed themselves near to him. I c c 4 392 MANOEL. sat on horseback, holding a parley, my men being on the other side of me, until Antonio, the mulatto carrier, (he who had been waylaid a long time before,) came round and leaned against the horse's neck, placing himself between me and the Indian. I afterwards found out, that he had observed that Francisco Joze heid a drawn knife, and Antonio judged that this was intended against me or my horse, for the Indian well knew that if he wounded me, it would probably enable him to escape. Several persons belonging to the plantation had now joined us, and the matter ended by the Indian allowing himself to be taken without resistance, and to be put into the stocks ; a party of mu- lattos, or of creole negroes, would not have submitted thus quietly. Late at night he paid the debt, was released, and I saw no more of him for a considerable time. I was now dismissing all those workmen who were not in debt to me, and at last only a few persons remained whose services I required, and upon whose character I could depend. It was very seldom that I visited Recife ; but when there was a necessity for so doing, I took ad- vantage of moon-light nights in preference to travelling in the day-time, and was on these occasions accompanied by Manoel. The wood of Merrueira, through which we usually passed, is famous for the numerous stories of ghosts that MANOEL. S93 wander, and of murders that have been com- mitted in it. One night, when the moon was not at a sufficient height to afford a tolerably clear view of the objects around, we were pass- ing through this wood. I saw a figure before me in the middle of the path, which bore the appearance of a man standing still. I slackened my pace, and called out, as is customary, "Who comes there ?" but before I could possibly have received an answer, Manoel brushed past me, saying, " Let me see j" however I desired him to be quiet, as no harm might be intended. On a nearer approach, we discovered that an old stump of a tree had caused this alarm. On another occasion I sent this same slave from Recife to Jaguaribe, on foot, early in the morn- ing, telling him that I intended to follow him, leaving Recife about eight o'clock in the evening. I was to be accompanied by Zacharias, another slave, whose courage was somewhat doubtful. Manoel arrived at Jaguaribe, and immediately prepared one of the pack-horses, saying to the manager that he was going to meet his master who was on the road alone, for he said, " Zacharias is nobody." * The manager could not persuade him to give up his intention, and therefore as he knew that the slave was much tired with his walk, he came himself. I * " Zacharias nam he ninguem." 394 A RELIGIOUS CEREMONY. mention these . anecdotes for the purpose of showing the kind of man, who usually followed me wherever I went. Several months now succeeded each other with- out any disquietude. I had another attack of ague during the rainy season, which was how- ever much less violent than that of the preced- ing year. I likewise met with an accident which had nearly proved fatal, occasioned by a blow from the fore feet of a high-fed horse ; he reared and struck me, but this was done more in play- fulness than with the intent to do mischief. I had had some intention of leaving Jaguaribe, owing to the turbulence of the neighbourhood, to my ill-health, and to some disagreeable occur- rences which had taken place between my land- lord and myself. However, as this would have been very inconvenient, I resolved to stay, not- withstanding all these and other disadvantages. Preparations were made in the month of August for setting the mill to work ; the cane had not attained this year its accustomed growth in most parts of the country, and that which I possessed was particularly stinted in size, for I had not commenced planting until it was almost too late. Every thing being ready towards the end of the month, I sent for a priest to bless the works. Unless this ceremony is performed, every person who is to be employed about the mill, both freeman and slave, would be afraid to A RELIGIOUS CEREMONY. 395 proceed to his destined labour, and if any acci- dent happened it would be ascribed to the wrath of heaven, for this breach of religious observ- ance. The priest arrived and said mass, after which we breakfasted and then proceeded to the mill. The manager and several other freemen and the negroes stood around the works ; a quantity of cane was placed ready to be thrust in between the rollers, and the four negroes whose part it was to feed the mill stood at their posts. Two lighted candles were placed close to the rollers, upon the platform which sustain:* the cane, and a small image of our Saviour upon the cross stood between them ; the priest took his breviary and read several prayers, and at 9tated places, with a small bunch of weeds pre- pared for the occasion, which he dipped in a jug of holy water, he sprinkled the mill and the per- sons present. Some of the negroes sprang for- wards to receive a good quantum of this sancti- fied water ; and then the master of the sugar boil- ing-house led the way to the portion of the works of which he had the direction ; and here there was another sprinkling. When we returned to the part of the mill in which the rollers stood, the priest took a large cane, and I did the same; then the signal being given, the flood-gate was opened, and the works were soon in motion, and according to rule the two canes which the priest and I held in our hands were the first to be 390 VALENTOENS. ground. I had heard much of this ceremony from persons of the country, and I cannot avoid saying, that although something of the ridicu- lous may by many persons be attached to it, still I could not help feeling much respect for it. The excitement of devout feelings among the slaves, even of those feelings which are produced by the Roman Catholic religion, cannot fail to be serviceable, and if men are to exist as slaves this is doubtless the religion which is the best adapted to persons in a state of subjection. Slavery and superstition are however two evils which, when combined, are surely sufficient to cause the misery of any country. The carts, the oxen, and their drivers had not received the priest's benediction ; they arrived some time afterwards, bringing loads of canes, and the carts were ornamented with the longest that could be picked out placed as flag-staffs, and bearing upon them handkerchiefs and rib- ands. Each cart in succession stood before the door of the dwelling-house, and the priest com- plied with the wishes of the drivers. There was a tall thin mulatto man of about fifty-five years of age, of the name of Vicente, who lived near to Jaguaribe ; he was in the habit, when he saw me about my own place, of stopping, that we might have some conversation. I liked much to hear his stories. Jle said, that now the country was becoming quieter, — that VALENTOENS. 397 disturbances were less frequent than formerly. That there were now no Valentoens, valiant ones, nor any contas verdes, green beads. * He ex- plained to me the precise meaning of the former, and the species of beads which were intended to be described by the latter. These Valentoens were men of all casts, whose whole business consisted in seeking opportunities of quarrelling ; they at- tended all festivals and fairs, and their desire was to become so famous for courage as to ren- der the knowledge of their presence on these occasions sufficient to keep in awe any other in- dividuals who might wish to create disturbances, considering themselves privileged to revenge their own and their friends' injuries; but they * Labat, in speaking of the Indians of Guyana, says, *' Leurs plus grandes richesses consistent dans les colliers de pierres vertes qui leur viennent de la riviere des Amazones. Cest un limon quon peche dans le fond de quelques endroits de ce grand Jleuve." He continues his description of them, and then says, — " Ces pierres sont sptcifiques pour guerir rtpilepsie ou le mal caduc, ou du moins pour en 6ter et sus- pendre tous les accidens tout aidant de terns quon les porte sur soi, et quelles touchant la peau." — Voyage du Chevalier des MarcJiais en Guinde, isles voisines et a Cayenne, torn. iv. p. 65. and 66. The lower orders in Brazil make use of an iron ring round the wrist for this purpose. I was informed that the Contas Verdes came from Africa, but some may have found their way from the Orellana, and been put into requisition by the Mandingueiros. I refer the reader to the History of Brazil, vol. i. p. 607- for a farther account of the green stones of the Amazons. i if 398 VALENTOENS. would not allow of any quarrel in which they were not concerned. Two roads cross each other at about the distance of one league from Jaguaribe, and at this spot Vicente told me, that some of these men often stood, obliging all passers-by either to fight them or to dismount, take oft their hats, and lead their horses whilst they were in their sight. These men wore round their necks strings of green beads, which had either come from the coast of Africa, bear- ing the wonderful property of conveying in safety their possessors through all descriptions of perils, or were charmed by Mandigueiros, African sorcerers, who had been brought over to Brazil as slaves, and in secret continued the prohibited practice of imparting this virtue to them. The men were accompanied by dogs of extraordinary size and activity, and possessing courage equal to that of their masters. These animals had been taught to drink rum, which they would do at their owner's command, giving to all beholders an opinion of some supernatural qualities having been bestowed upon them. Vicente had been acquainted with some of these men, and was firmly persuaded of the virtues of the green beads, and that the dogs imbibed from their masters certain qualities, which made them superior to all the rest of their species. The expression of the man's countenance changed entirely when he commenced the re- VALENTOENS. 399 lation of these stories ; it was at all times harsh ; but now there was imparted to it a consider- able degree of unpleasant wildness. When I expressed my doubts of the efficacy of the beads against a musket-ball well-directed, his anger rose, but there was pity mingled with it, for one who had not seen those times of wonder. He seemed to be glad that they were over, and that all was now quiet ; but yet he cherished a sort of regard for men whose lives had been passed in deeds of danger ; for notwithstanding the charms, such he considered them to be, the death of these men was generally violent, owing, as Vicente said, to some unfortunate re- moval of the beads from the person of him whose destined hour was arrived. It was not, however, from this person alone that I heard accounts of the Valentoens. * * A man of large property being much provoked at some outrage which had been committed by one of these Valen- toens, (who was a white man,) had said at his own home, that when he met the man he would horsewhip him. This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they met accidentally in one of the narrow-paths in the neighbour- hood. The Valentam was well-armed with musket, sword, and knife ; he requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him. The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore set spurs to his horse, but the road was without any bend for too MANDINGU£IROS. There was an old Creole negro residing in the neighbourhood of Jaguaribe, whose disposition led him to explore all the woods for miles around in search of game ; he preferred this manner of obtaining subsistence to that of daily labour with the hoe or bill hook. He was ac- quainted with the situations in which the best timber was to be found ; and could, in many instances, name the exact spot upon which some particular tree stood, which was required for any given purpose. This man often came to Jaguaribe, and on these occasions I usually called him into the house to hear his stories, whilst I sat in my hammock smoking. He was fond of tales of ghosts and Mandingueiros. The latter are famous, among other feats, for handling poisonous snakes, and can, according to his ac- count and that of many other persons, by pecu- liar noises or tunes, call these reptiles from their holes, and make them assemble around them. These sorcerers profess to render innoxious the some distance : the Valentam knelt down upon one knee, and fired with the effect which he wished" for. He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the whole story of his meet- ing, at the first village through which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried, and hanged at Bahia, through the very great exertions of the brother of the person whom he had murdered. He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance from Jaguaribe, about fifteen years ago. SNAKES. 401 bites of snakes, to persons who submit to their charms and ceremonies. One of the modes which is adopted for this purpose, is that of allowing a tame snake to crawl over the head, face, and shoulders of the person who is to be curado de cobras, cured of snakes, as they term it. The owner of the snake repeats a number of words during the operation, of which the meaning, if they contain any, is only known to the initiated. The rattle-snake is said to be, above all other species, the most susceptible of attention to the tunes of the Mandingueiros. The above accounts I should not have related upon the authority of one or two persons. I have heard them repeated by several individuals, and even some men of education have spoken of the reputed efficacy of the tame snakes of the Mandingueiros, as if they were somewhat stag- gered in their disbelief of it ; the reputation of the contas verdes is firmly established in the faith of those persons of the lower ranks who have heard of them. These men certainly do play strange tricks very dexterously. I had not been so much inconvenienced by snakes as I had imagined I should j I had seen several different kinds in going through the woods, and particularly in that which leads from Jaguaribe to Paulistas. The path through it is not much frequented, and therefore the snakes have become bolder, crossing the road, or run- VOL. I. D D 402 SNAKES. ning up a bank as I passed along. One after- noon I had a visit with which I could have well dispensed. I happened to look up whilst sitting in my hammock, and saw one of these reptiles, lying quite still upon the top of the wall of the room, in the opening which is formed by the supporters of the roof that rest upon it. I seized a pike, and ran it into the snake, thus rivetting it to one of the beams of the roof, whilst I called to some person to assist me in killing it ; but its writhing was so violent, that it soon liberated itself, and fell from the wall on the outside, where several persons waited for it. The people who were present did not know whether it was of the caninana or papa ovo (egg- eater) species, as these are much like to each other. The former is accounted venomous, and the latter is by many persons supposed to be harmless. Both are of a gray colour above, and yellow underneath. The snake which we killed was about four feet in length. The caninana is likewise sometimes called the flying-snake, as it has the power of springing to a considerable distance. It usually lies entwin- ing the branch of a tree, and from thence darts down upon those who may molest it. The cobra d'agua, or water-snake, was often to be seen in the rivulet which runs just below the dwelling-house of Jaguaribe ; it is sometimes eight or ten feet in length, and of the thickness ^M SNAKES. 403 of a man's arm. The colour of the back is a bright black, and the belly is of a pale yellow. The lower ranks of people say that it is poison- ous j but I have heard this contradicted. The jararclca snake is from six to nine feet in length ; the back is of a dusky yellow, and the belly is white ; the point of the tail is black, the mouth is red, and it has two black and white streaks upon the throat. The curlicue d ^ake is of nearly the same size as the jararclca ; it is black and yellow. This reptile is attracted by fire, and on this account would be more dangerous to travellers than any other description of snake, if its attention was not so totally directed to the tire, as to give time and opportunity of killing it. It has, as I was informed by many persons of credibility, been known to spring off the ground at a person carrying a flambeau. The curacucu and the jararclca are known to be poi- sonous. The cypo snake is so called from its likeness to the thin and flexible shfoots of the plants which bear this name. It is said to be poisonous. Charms are often supposed to destroy the venom of snakes, and to produce, consequently, the recovery of the person who has been bitten by one of these reptiles. Oil is sometimes used as a remedy, being given in considerable quan- tities, which are increased or diminished accord- ing to the quality of the oil. Rum is likewise d d 2 404. HERVA COBREIRA. administered so as to produce intoxication. J have also seen a small plant, which is known under the name of herva cobreira ; wherever I have seen it, the plant has been carefully pre- served in a pot. This would denote that it is not indigenous to the part of the country in which I was ; and indeed I was told that it had been brought from Africa. I never saw its flower; the leaves of it are small and heart- shaped; the stem is of four or five inches in length, and of a deep red colour, which becomes greenish towards the points of the branches : these are long, crooked, and spread horizontally. The leaves and the softer branches are bruised, and are applied to the wound, and the juice which is extracted from them, when mixed with rum or water, is drank by the patient. I do not vouch for its success ; but its name must, I should imagine, have been acquired by its repu- tation. * * Labat speaks of a tree, of which the fruit is a perfect cure for the bite of the most dangerous snakes. He says that it comes from the isthmus of Darien ; that the buccaniers were informed of its virtue by the Indians who accompanied them in their expeditions across the isthmus. He does not give the name of the tree ; but says " sans nous embarasser du nomde Varbre nous nous contentons d'appeller son fruit noix de serpent" In his time there were three of these trees at Martinique, which were of the size of apricot-trees in France. He says that he witnessed the success of the fruit. The account of the plant and its virtues is too long to be inserted here. It is to be found in the Nouveau Voyage aux iles dc I'Amerique, torn. iii. p. 234 to 238. LEAVES JAGUARIBE. The mill was yet at work in September, when the owner of the place applied to me to leave it, as it was convenient to him to come down from another plantation of which he was the owner, and reside at Jaguaribe, from its vicinity to Recife. I agreed to this, but did not wish that he should remove until I was about to leave Jaguaribe. However, one morning, a young man who was related to, and employed by him, came to my house, and told me, that by order from his kinsman he had (accompanied by a gang of negroes) taken possession during the night of the cottage, which was situated upon the shelf of the hill. I expressed my surprise at this conduct, and said a good deal upon the subject. He, of course, returned for answer, that he had only acted according to the orders In the same work, I find the following manner of cure from the bite of a snake, which will not however be very generally adopted : — " Ceax qui ont assez de courage ou de charitS pour sexposer a fair e cette cure se gargarisent bien la bouche avec de V eau-de-vie ; et apres avoir scarifie' la place, Us la succent de toute leu,r force, Us rejettent de terns en terns cc quils ont da?is la bouche, et se la nettoyent et gargarisent ii chaquefois, observant de presscr fortement avec les deux mainf les environs de la partie blessee. On a vit de tres bans effets de cette cure, mais elle est tr4s-d.angerev.se pour celui qui In fait ; car s'il a la moindre ecorchure dans la bouche, ou qu'il avale tant soit peu de ce qu'il retire, il peut s'attendre amourir en peu de momens, sans que toute la medecine le puisse sauver" Tom. i. p. 167- 406 LEAVES .TAGUARIBE. which he had received. The principal objec- tion which I had to this premature removal arose from the general turbulent character of the slaves of this man, and from the frequency of quarrels between the dependants of those persons whose dwellings were so near to each other as ours had now become. » Several extremely disagreeable occurrences took place, as I had feared would be the case, before I could conveniently remove ; but as these proceeded more particularly from the pe- culiarity of our situation I do not think that a minute account of them would be interesting. These anecdotes could not be given in illustra- tion of the general state of manners in the coun- try. Suffice it to say, that I made a visit to the owner of the plantation of Amparo, in the island of Itamaraca, upon whose lands I agreed to plant sugar-canes, and to share with him their produce, as is a usual practice upon sugar-estates. In the beginning of November, 1813, I sent my manager to prepare a residence for me, at the town of Conception in the island ; and I removed to that place in the course of the fol- lowing month. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. Printed by A. Strahan, Printers-Street, London, Hi ■ m Tv^th y q^-^ *)%* iwi *-.l WE GETTY Cr LIBRARY V F f S