Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/journalofexplori00park_1 JOURNAL OF AN EXPLORING TOUR BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE A. B. C. F. M. IN THE YEARS 1835, ’36, AND ’37; CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, PRODUC- TIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES : WITH A MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. Tty REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A. M. THIRD EDITION. ITHACA, N. Y. BUCK, ANDRUS, & WOODRUFF. BOSTON : CROCKER &, BREWSTER. NEW-YORK *. DAYTON & SAXTON m r COLLINS, KEESE, &, CO. PHILADELPHIA : GRIGG & ELLIOT. LONDON : WILEY & PUTNAM. 18 42 Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Samuel Parker, in the Clerk’s office of the District Court of the Northern District of New York. MACK, ANDRUS, WOODRUFF, PRINTERS, ITHACA. RECOMMENDATIONS. FROM H. HUMPHREY, D. D., PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE. I have read Mr. Parker’s Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun- tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts and many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly instructive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am glad to learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is not a book of lofty pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high in- trinsic merit. The friends of the missionary cause, and of the abori- ginal tribes beyond the mountains, who have not yet seen this volume, have a rich reversion before them. H. HUMPHREY. Amherst College, ) Nov. 7, 1839. $ FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, A. M., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE. I am happy to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring Tour of Mr. Parker. EDWARD HITCHCOCK. FROM NOAH WEBSTER, L L. D. NEW HAVEN. New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839. Dear Sir, I have read the account of your journey over the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much valuable in- formation respecting a part of our continent, which is imperfectly ex- plored. I hope the publication of the book will amply reward your labors. N. WEBSTER. FROM JAMES RICHARDS, D. D. PROFESSOR IN AUBURN THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. I have read the Tour of the Rev. Mr. Parker among the Western Indians, and was much gratified by his statements. His travels across the Rocky Mountains, and his visit to the far distant tribes beyond, are connected with many striking facts and incidents, which cannot fail to interest the inquisitive and reflecting. In my judgment, the work is calculated to benefit the cause of Science and of Missions. JAMES RICHARDS. Auburn, Nov. 14, 1839. IV RECOMMENDATIONS. “ This is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes rich food alike to the man of science and the unlearned. It is one of the most deeply interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American press ; inasmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores of knowledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore has been but partially explored. This is a volume which commends itself to the careful perusal of men of every class, and, so marvellous are its truths, that it needs but the merit of being a work of fiction , to gain for it universal circulation .” — Missionary Herald, Cincinnati. “ Mr. Parker’s observations on the geology and geography of the country through which he passed are alone richly worth twice the cost of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work is a noble weapon ; to the advocates of Foreign Missions an unanswer- able evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new map from actual observation of the territory of the United States west of the limits of Missouri, and a lithograph exhibiting the extra- ordinary rock formation through which the Oregon has worn its way. The book is written in a plain, familiar style, and is intended to em- body only such facts as may be said to come absolutely within the knowledge of the author. We earnestly recommend it to the atten- tion of the entire reading public .” — New Yorker , May 19, 1838. Acknowledgements are due to numerous editors of periodicals and papers who have given the work a favorable notice. PREFACE. In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, the only apology, necessary to offer, is the hope of promoting a more extensive and particular knowledge, than has hitherto been furnished, of the condi- tion of that important section of our country. The author’s mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for obser- vation, being conducted with leisure, through one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irrecon- cilable with a strict adherence to facts, and this scrupu- lous regard to truth is the principal merit claimed for the volume. The most of what is narrated came under the author’s personal observation, and whatever is stated which did not, was obtained from gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for honesty and candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well established. This source of information was available by collecting and comparing the statements of different indi- viduals, retaining what corresponded with his own observa- tion, or was well supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following work contains a greater amount 2 VI PREFACE. of statistical information in regard to the country, and important facts, than is to be found in any production furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater ex- tent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and with the express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal population, this position cannot be considered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and their pub- lished narrative carries with it evidence of candor and in- telligence, and contains much valuable information; yet their opportunities for observation were somewhat limited. They passed over the great chain of mountains from the head waters of the Missouri between the 45° and 46° of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Coos- cootskee, and followed that river to its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river, wintered upon the south side of the bay, and early the following spring returned to the mountains by the same route which they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons who have published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and many of their observations upon different sections of the country are just, but they are deficient in statistical information, and their productions are mostly confined to personal ad* PREFACE. Vll ventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow In- dians, starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not our business to originate facts, but to record them. The license given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone for impressions which are not in accordance with truth. While it was a leading object to become acquainted with the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposi- tion in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful at- tention was given to the geography of the country, with its productions; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the va- rious aspects of its physical condition. The country here described is sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest, the widely extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and the results of volcanic agency which are met with in almost every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the traveler; and if any statements appear large, it is because the facts are so in themselves. It has been an object in writing this volume to compress as much as possible the amount of information, instead of PREFACE. viii unnecessarily extending it, and the hope is indulged, that while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened if it do not already exist, to benefit the original, the rightful owners, and with the exception of a few thousand fur tra- ders scattered in every direction over this territory, the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature. The map which accompanies the work has been prepared with much labor and care ; and though some minute parts are omitted, it will be found far more accurate than any which has before been published. In addition to my own surveys, I have availed myself of those of gentlemen com nected with the Hudson Bay Company, in parts which I did not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancouver and the labors of other explorers for much that I have delineated of the North-West coast of the Pacific ocean, and the Islands. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. The interest the public have taken in this work, evinced by the many highly commendatory reviews and notices, which have appeared in numerous periodicals, religious, sci- entific, and political, both in this country and in Europe, together with the sale of the first edition, has influenced the author to publish a second edition. Many persons, whose judgment, extensive knowledge, and piety, entitle them to be held in high estimation, have encouraged him to believe that this work has been interesting to men of science, useful in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit of missions, and what is not the least to be valued, a sym- pathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon. As it was an object in preparing the first edition to com- press as great an amount of information as possible in the compass of a duodecimo volume, so in this — the same object has been pursued, and while some parts have been en- larged, others have been abridged. The whole work has been attentively revised and corrected. It is hoped that it will contribute its influence, however small it may be, in aiding the cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert the sentiment, that the acquisition of all knowledge 2 * X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. should be made subservient to this important use, and that the gold from any region, if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is of no real value, and whatever will not directly or in- directly, nearly or remotely, concur in this great end, must at length endure the ultimate fate of that “ knowledge which shall vanish away.” Previous editions having been so well received, a third is now published, having undergone a careful revision, and some parts have been re-written, and additions have been made. It is hoped that it will be found not the less worthy of public favor. Ithaca, 1842 . CONTENTS CHAPTER I. The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie, and Pittsburgh ; passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam- boat takes fire ; Cincinnati ; Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio river ; Ohio and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers; Point Girardou; beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie; St. Genevieve, old custom ; Herculaneum; gambling on board the steam-boats; St. Louis; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontenelle .17 CHAPTER II. Leave St. Louis for Liberty; passage up the Missouri; snags; a walk on shore ; Jefferson city ; river scenery ; steam-boat Siam; sand bars; Lexington; steam-boat disaster; Liberty; Navahoe Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing provincialisms; caravan commence their journey; first en- campment; Iowa Indians; Blacksnake hills; Nodaway river; Elk ; cross the Neshnabotana ; rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana ; mode of living ; mounds of the west; crossing of the Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries. . . 26 CHAPTER III. Continuance at Council Bluffs; interesting scenery; Indian curi- osity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; spas- modic cholera ; an Indian chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the country around ; Loups fork of the Platte ; manner of encamping; Big Ax, Pawnee chief ; Indian feasting; fourth of July; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis; thunder storm; Indian ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle-snake ; buf- 2 * Xll CONTENTS. folo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; swiftness of antelopes ; climate ; thousands of buffalo ; badgers; prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or bea- con ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. 43 CHAPTER IV. Black Hills; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of In- dians for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenced our journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of worm- wood ; Red Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock In- dependence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through the mountains ; “ thunder spirits” gone ; an alarm ; waters of the Colorado. 69 CHAPTER V. Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations ; Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called ; surgical operations; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct. Whitman ; Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life. . . 79 CHAPTER VI. Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia ; kindness of the Indians; narrow defile; geology; Jackson’s Hole ; wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain pros- pect ; Trois Tetons ; danger from affrighted buffalo ; Pierre’s Hole ; volcanic chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting worship with the Indians ; burial of a child ; scarcity of food ; a timely supply; Salmon river; expected battle; geological observations ; scene of mourning. 86 CHAPTER VII. Salmon river; mineral salt ; chimneys; forest trees, new species of pine ; geology ; sulphur lake ; a rare animal ; new species CONTENTS. xiii of squirrels and pheasant ; came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia ; ferryman ; Basaltic formation ; fine climate ; arrive at Walla Walla 114 CHAPTER VIII. Description of Walla Walla; the kind treatment of the Indians by the Hudson Bay Company; leave Walla Walla for Fort Van- couver ; loquacious orator ; rapids ; introduction to the Cayuse Indians; morning prospect; long rapids; Volcanic mountains; trial of Indian generosity; arrival at the Falls of the Columbia river ; rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading company ; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades ; Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Percds ; dangerous rapids ; Indian bu- rying places; Pillar Rock; interesting waterfall; sea fowl; arrive at Fort Vancouver 130 CHAPTER IX. Description of Fort Vancouver; departure for Fort George and mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnomah : Wappatoo Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian friendship ; Pacific Ocean ; Gray’s Bay ; Astoria. . . . 148 CHAPTER X. Description of Fort George; mouth of the Columbia; dangerous bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests ; excur- sion in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the entrance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship Isabella; Ton quin ; Japanese junk; reflections; water fowl; return to Fort Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead ; Indian kindness. . 155 CHAPTER XI. Review of journeyings ; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk upon the pebbly shore ; falls; settlement on the Willamette ; XIV CONTENTS. Methodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi- tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William, on the Wappatoo island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits : return to Fort Vancouver. . . . . . . 168 1 CHAPTER XII. Services on the Sabbath; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver fur and farming establishment ; garden productions, lumber ; com- merce; peltries; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste of life ; hardships of a hunter’s life ; their perseverance ; Chris- tian principle ; worldly principle 182 CHAPTER XIII. Indian population ; diseases ; mortality ; attributed to cultivation of the soil ; destitute of medical science ; holidays ; customs at home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish customs in punishment ; marriage contracts ; condition of the females; slavery ; division into tribes ; points of dissimilarity ; sac- rifices ; language. . . . . . . . .191 CHAPTER XIV. The various animals beyond the Mountains. . . . 199 CHAPTER XV. Fish ; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; den- drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ; valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons. . . 212 CHAPTER XVI. Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ; their persons ; dress; wealth; habits; physical character ; man- ufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; su- perstitions ; medicine men. 228 CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER XVII. The Indians of the lower country. 244 CHAPTER XVIII. Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ; early and mild season ; La Dalles Indians ; their anxiety to receive the gospel ; Nootka hummingbird ; number and loca- tion of the Indians in the lower country; Indians of the north ; the agitated question ; solitariness 256 CHAPTER XIX. Departure for the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympathy; famished Indians; arrival at Walla Walla ; inter- esting meeting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass. 268 CHAPTER XX. Journey to the Nez Percd country ; funeral of a child ; natural scenery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; in- dustry of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking ; journey to Colvile. ........ 280 CHAPTER XXI. Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river ; extraordinary excavation ; lost on the prairie ; Indian principle ; Spokein woods and country; Indian ferry ; Spokein valley ; granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fer- tile valley ; worship with The Spokeins ; Mill river valley ; ar- rival at Fort Colvile ; description of the place ; leave Colvile for Fort Okanagan ; a mountain of marble ; Grand Coul6, or old bed of the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long rapids ; ar- rive at Walla Walla. ........ 289 XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXII. A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls; Cas- cades ; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; steam-boat ex- cursion 308 CHAPTER XXIII. Geology. ....... 321 CHAPTER XXIV. General remarks ; Meteorological table. .... 341 CHAPTER XXV. The voyage commenced for the Sandwich Islands ; passage in the Beaver down the river ; take passage in the barque Colum- bia ; detention in Chenook bay ; arrival at the islands ; worship in the native church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the valley ofManoa: description of Honolulu ; ofWaititi; heathen tem- ple; Eva; Waialua; Keneohe ; mountains; salt lake ; geolo- gy; natural productions ; animals; government; tea party of the royal family ; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and En- terprise ; decrease of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign residents ; charity school ; seamen’s chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; missionary success. .... 357 CHAPTER XXVI. Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States ; call at the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo ; severe gales of wind : Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ; Trinidad ; arrival at New London. .... 378 PARKER’S TOUR. CHAPTER I. The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh — pas- sage to Cincinnati in the steam. boat Ohioan — the steam-boat takes fire — Cincinnati — Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio river — Ohio and Kentucky — confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point Girardou — beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie — St. Gene- vieve, old custom — Herculaneum — gambling on board the steam- boats — St. Louis — Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Fontenelle. The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical con- dition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession of the country, its future probable importance in a political view, its population and trade, have occupied much atten- tion. The Christian public have not been inattentive to the interests, moral and religious, of those whom the God of providence has placed in these remote regions, and who are without the blessings of civilization and Christianity. The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions ap- pointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain by personal observation, the condition and character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization among them. 3 18 PITTSBURGH. That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour- ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indif- ference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. Although it was painful to bid adieu to family and friends, unapprised of the events of the future, yet committing all to the gui- dance and protection of an all-wise Providence, the enter- prise was undertaken, without reluctance, on the 14th of March, 1835. Pursuing the journey by the way of Buffalo and Erie, I arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. The intervening distance to St. Louis, through the great valley of the west, had lost much of its novelty, having previously passed over it, and long since has it ceased to excite that de- gree of interest in the community, with which it was regard- ed before the numerous descriptions of the tourist and trav- eler had rendered its general features familiar. Only a passing notice, therefore, will be given. Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from its multiplied manufac- tories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, four hun- dred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The scenery of the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to the Missis- sippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, and culti- vated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 28th, we ar- rived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that day was disco- vered to be on fire in the hold, in which were a large quantity of combustible goods. This created great alarm. A very strong head wind blew the fire from the furnace down the hatchw T ay, which, after removing some goods, had been CINCINNATI. 19 carelessly left open. The captain immediately rounded the boat to the shore, and no sooner was it gained, than there was a general rush for safety. Some of the passengers threw out their baggage, and many leaped from the upper deck to the land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with considerable difficulty we disengaged the boat from its grounded position, and from the trees among which it was entangled, and w T e were again under way. Cincinnati is a large city for a country so new, and from its mature appearance would hardly be thought to have been the growth of only half a century. Its population, composed of emigrants from New England, the middle, and some of the southern states, and from various parts of Eu- rope, is consequently not very homogeneous in its character. Its schools and institutions of literature, promise much for the great interests of science and religion in this interesting section of our growing country. Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, for the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which, by water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. On the 30th, we passed Louisville, near which are the falls of the Ohio, twenty-two feet in height, and passable by boats only in high water, about two months in a year. To save the expense and delay of portage around the falls, a canal has been constructed on the south side of the river, two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep. The water being high, w^e passed over the falls. It was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls, it increases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irre- sistible current; and you are anxious to know whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at 20 THE OHIO RIVER OHIO AND KENTUCKY. them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, that while their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene. Your fears give way to emotions of the sublime. The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm below. The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bot- tom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass- ing through this part of the great western valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, exhibit the advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swift-mo- ving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes the means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. The striking difference in the taste and habits of the people in- habiting the two sides of the river, was here very apparent. Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwellings are in the New England style, while on the Kentucky side, scattered here and there, you see the large log houses of the planters in a grade of architecture considerably above the log cabins of their slaves, by which they are surrounded, yet log houses still. These are built two stories high, with a wide airy hall through the centre, one of the lower rooms being the parlor, and the other serves the several purposes of a nursery, sleeping, and eating room. Open, frank hos- pitality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI. 21 a stranger. I offered a lady in one of these mansions some tracts, which she at first declined with the enquiry, “ Do you think we are heathen ?” “ No, madam ; but tracts contain much that is interesting to all classes of people, and after they are read, can be circulated among those who may not be well supplied with books.” I saw but very few houses of worship, except in villa- ges. On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to claim the superiority ; and when joined, they move on with united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, sur- rounded by a few miserable huts. To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and had- he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men. standing by, must have been drawn wholly in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon on board I officiated in dressing his wounds. Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus- try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of decay. W e moved but slowly against the wind and current,. 22 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. The fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs, presented a very pleasing scene this evening. These bluffs are two hundred feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. At a considerable distance they appeared like an illuminated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illusion was dissipated. The fires had advanced nearly over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately ascending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect. A short stay was made on the third, at the landing of St. Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely by French, who are slow to depart from the customs and manners established by their forefathers, who have long since passed away. To adopt new improvements would be a step next to giving up their catholic religion and turning infidel . It is amusing to see the manner they yoke their oxen, and to learn the reason they assign for so doing. The yoke is composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened to the back side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that in this way, they save the whole power of the animal ; but that the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their rea- soning may satisfy themselves, but would not the thorough- going New England farmer. To-day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situated on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis. It is almost surrounded by high precipitous hills, having only a narrow space for a village. There are several shot- towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which con- GAMBLING. 23 siderable business is done . Large quantities of lead, brought from the mines, are sold and carried to distant markets. In travelling upon these waters, it is painful to see how few books of any value there are on board the steam-boats. Some novels are found, but the most of them are of a licen- tious character. Thousands of those who navigate these rivers are going to the judgment regardless of the interests of their souls, and most of them are destitute of the Bible. It gave great offence to many, that we should have reli- gious worship in the ladies’ cabin, as we did by invitation. Complaints of obtrusion were made — “ Obtruding religion — no place for such things.” But profanity and gambling are no obtrusion ; they are always in time and always in place. Christians must keep religion out of sight and hear- ing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they please. Gambling is practised on board the steam-boats upon these waters to a very great extent, and is a favorite amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cul- tivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conver- sation. The number of black-legs who make gambling their business is great, and they are adepts in their profes- sion, as their success depends very much upon their skill in deception, and in decoying the inexperienced. On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis. This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Mis- souri, and in its local position resembles Albany, N. Y. The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river, and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, partly covered with shrubbery, back of which are open prairies. In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets 24 ST. LOUIS. are narrow. This may have been done to accommodate their propensity to be sociable, by enabling them to converse from the windows across the streets. The French popula- tion, with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted for their indolence and dissipation. . Gambling is their favourite amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this object, with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As gambling does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, enterprising men among the French population. Drunkenness is not common, and the temperance cause is doing much to remove what exists. Eastern enterprise and influence is gaining ground since the town has been brought under the laws of the United States ; and a new impulse is given to business. This is the central place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by the American Fur Company to a consider- able extent ; and also much business is done in lead, which is obtained at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and other water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost every description of character and nation, collect here, such as trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, as a starting point from whence to go into the still far west, many of whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky Moun- tains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are five houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman Catholic . The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light brown sand- stone, and is a large expensive building. The Protestant influence is increasing, and there are here many active, de- voted Christians, who exert a salutary influence upon the town and vicinity around. The population is fifteen thousand. DR. WHITMAN. 25 Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here, who is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent out by the American Fur Company. The caravan proceeds a very little beyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and supplies for their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping ; and returns with the furs which they have taken during the year. There are about three hundred men constantly em- ployed in and about the mountains, and more than sixty who constitute the caravan. With a much less number it would be unsafe to perform this journey, as there are hos- tile tribes of Indians on the way, viz : the Arjckaras, the Crows, and Blackfeet. Having obtained permission of the principal agents of the company, Mr. Fontenelle kindly of- fered to accommodate us with such advantages as may be afforded in his caravan. Finding it necessary to leave this place to-day for Liberty, which is one of the most western towns in the United States, we were very busily employed in making preparation for the journey, and in calling upon and bidding farewell to Christian friends. A fire last night destroyed a very large livery stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle, and bridle. The old cathedral, which was used for a store-house, was also burnt, together with a very large quantity of crockery which it contained. 26 ACCIDENT. CHAPTER II. Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri — snags — a walk on shore — Jefferson city — River scenery — Steam-Boat Siam — Sand bars — Lexington — Steam-Boat disaster— Liberty — Navahoe Indians — ride to Cantonment Leavenworth — amusing provincialisms — Caravan commence their journey — first encampment — Iowa Indi- ans — Blacksnake hills — Nodaway river — Elk — cross the Neshna- botana — Rich soil — rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana —mode of living — mounds of the west — crossing of the Missouri — Bellevue — Missionaries. At five o’clock, P. M. we went on board the steam-boat St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty miles ; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous to proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars in the Missouri. On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather slow progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which is twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St. Louis. This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north side of the river. The country around is interesting, and the soil of superior quality . An enterprising Christian popula- tion would make this one of the most desirable places in the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years of age, fell overboard, but, from the swiftness of the current, and as the boat was under full way, there was no opportu- nity to save him. He was seen floating a short time, but before the yawl could be loosed from its fastening, and JEFFERSON CITY. 27 manned, he sunk, and was seen no more. His mother, a widow, and her family, were removing from Kentucky to Franklin, Mo-* The mother and the children lamented greatly and loudly. Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we could not determine which it was, and it became necessary to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore. Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an elevation of several hundred feet. Here we had a delight- ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled prairie and wood land, its cultivated spots, and its hills and dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter- posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could we return in the same way ? W e were compelled, by de- scending backwards, to use much caution, and letting our- selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, and assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. W e also visited a place, some distance below this, where Lewis and Clark encamped three days, the state of the river being such that they could not ascend with their batteaux. Many wild turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited shores. On the tenth, our boat discharged a part of her cargo at Port- land, a small newly built village. A fellow passenger, a merchant of this place, on landing, immediately put in re- quisition some thirty colored men, women, and children, who readily, without the aid of horses or carts, transferred his merchandise to its destination. The boat stopped on the 11th, at Jefferson city, the cap- 28 SAND BARS. ital of the state, situated on the south side of the river, upon a high eminence, a little above the Osage river. It has a great name for so small a place. The state house is of a size which would be decent for a small academy ; and the governor’s house would do very well for a common farmer’s house in the country, but not such as we should expect for a governor in Jefferson City. But the state of Missouri is comparatively new, and this place may in time support its name. Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and en- deavored to observe the day according to the commandment. On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small villages, which have a country of rich land around them, and when it is brought under good cultivation, they must rise in importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along the shores are mostly oak and cotton- wood, with some hac- berry and buckeye, and it is interesting to see how easily and how deep they take root in the free rich soil along the river. Frequently, where the banks are washing away, the roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and generally there is only a large central root descending ten or twelve feet, with small ones branching out, presenting the appear- ance of an inverted cone. The river makes nothing of washing away, and forming islands. Sand bars and snags are so common, that, becoming accustomed to them, we hardly think of danger. We found the steam-boat Siam, on 14th, Captain L., at Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her freight and passengers, and returned; both boats having so far discharged their freight, that one could proceed with the remainder. When under way, the boat run upon a sand A CONTRAST. 29 bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently threat- ening a disaster, but the quicksand of which the bar was composed, soon w;ashed away, and we went ahead again. Running aground in this river is a very different thing from what it would be in most waters ; for the bars are so gene- rally formed of quicksand, that in most instances the current around the boat sets all clear. Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, we ran upon a bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we made only five miles before one o’clock, P. M. Called at Lex- ington, a village pleasantly situated one mile back from the landing, and surrounded by a fine country. We made only about fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so slow, that it would have been far more pleasant traveling by land ; and to have been free from imprisonment with shockingly pro- fane swearers and gamblers, most of whom are intemperate. It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another Sabbath, on board the steam-boat. How great a contrast to the sa- credness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Christian fam- ily circle ; or in the sanctuary where God is worshiped in the great congregation ; or in the quiet, unobtrusive sabbath school, where attentive minds sit down to study the word of God, that they may practice its precepts, and where the teachers are heard explaining and enforcing divine truth upon the young and tender conscience. As we passed along, I saw many children standing on the banks of the river, and thought how benevolent persons at the east had desired their religious instruction, and how much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had failed to reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity and vice around them, by which they are educated for de- 4 30 STEAM-BOAT DISASTER. struction, and endeavored to ask the Great Benefactor of all to do that for them which it was not in my power to do. I contrasted in my mind the difference between kindred souls in sweet communion in the service of God to-day, and the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms of this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his Christ. About the middle of the day, the captain and his men ap- peared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam was a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her first season. They appeared to regard no bounds in raising and applying steam. Such was the power under which the boat labored, that she more than trembled. For a long time 1 expected some disaster, and looked at the captain to see if I could discover any apprehensions of danger. There was no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent spirits. Soon the disaster came, though less extensive than I had feared ; the main shaft, which was large and made of iron, broke, and farther progress was impossible. Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to find some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilderness shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and return with one wheel, like a crippled winged fowl. Two miles above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand bar high and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and being left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to be libera- ted. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that most of the accidents which happen to steam-boats take place on the Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would be long before they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards evening went out into LIBERTY. 31 a small neighborhood of Mormons, where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, which they call their promised land, and to which they say they shall return. They are a poor deluded people, and when they speak of their persecu- tions, they seem not to possess the spirit our Saviour, who-, when he was reviled, reviled not again, and when he suffered 5 , threatened not. We rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through a very pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, well supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the year, when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter, appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flowers, and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the scene. I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A. Sponsa) which here were numerous ; the variety of its colors was adapted to the beauty of the scenery which surrounded us. And the sprightly deer did not seem to accelerate its movements so much from fear, as from love of flight. Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a court- house of brick — several stores, which do considerable busi- ness, a rope- walk, and a number of decent dwelling houses. Continued in this place about three weeks, waiting for the caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men, horses and mules, and wagons, are collected and put in read- iness ; and from this place commences the long journey for the west. While we remained here, we had an opportunity to collect much information from those who have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to the country, mode of traveling, and concerning the various Indian tribes on the way. Captain Ford, and Lieutenant Stein from Fort 32 CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH. Leavenworth, were also here. They are both professors of religion, and appear to be well acquainted with the Indian country. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was out with the dragoons the last year — and was among the Paw- nee Piets. He gives a very favorable account of them, and thinks the way is open to establish a mission among them with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the way is prepared, or is preparing, for a mission among the Caman- ehes, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wish for peace and trade with the Americans. I saw also a Mr. Vaughn of this place, a Baptist professor, who has made two trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two years in that place. He gives a very interesting description of the Navahoes, a tribe who number about two thousand warriors. Their country lies between the Rio Del Norte and the eastern branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very considerable extent ; have large herds of cattle and horses, and flocks of sheep ; and have many domestic man- ufactures and houses of good: construction. They are friendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr. V. thinks they would readily receive Protestant missiona- ries, and would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of their hostility to the Spaniards. He also speaks well of the Paches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del Norte towards old Mexico. These have been at war three years with the Spaniards. Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Cantonment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of the Mis- souri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United States. The way is through a fertile section of country, part of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are handsomely wood- ed, and all well adapted to cultivation. I had an introduc- SINGULAR VIEWS. 33 tion to several of the officers, and made my home at Lieut. S’s, an agreeable and religious family. I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention. There is a very considerable number of professors of reli- gion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a defi- ciency in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and some of the other officers appear disposed to maintain good order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence. I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take a view of the fort and the adjacent country. The buildings of the fort are situated within an enclosure around a large, beautiful square, which is covered with grass, and adorned with shade trees. The whole is on an elevation of a few hundred feet, and has an interesting prospect of the majestic river flowing on silently below.. The fertile country around presents a wide and fine prospect, and when settled by an industrious population, will equal the most favored parts of the earth. Liberty, and the surrounding country, is inhabited by people of considerable enterprise, and when it shall be brought under Christian influence, there will be but few places more inviting. There is but one Presbyterian min- ister in this county, a man of talents and very respectable attainments, who is exerting a good influence. The Bap- tists in this section of country are unlike those of the east.. They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the day., Elder H. the pastor of the church in this place, invited Rev. Mr. Merril, a Baptist missionary, located among the Otoe Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him the ■first Sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, ap- 4 * 34 PROVINCIALISMS. prehensive that Mr. Merril would say something about the cause of temperance, or missionary efforts, and Elder H. had to withdraw his invitation. They profess to act from Christian principles in refusing to give their minister any thing for support, lest they should make him a hireling. It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are common in this part of the country. If a person intends to commence a journey some time in the month, for instance, in May ; he says, “ I am going in all the month of May.” For a large assembly of people, they say, “ a smart sprinkle of people.” The word “ balance,” comes into almost every transaction — “ will you not have a dessert for the balance of your dinner?” — “to make out the balance of his night’s rest, he slept until eight in the morning.” If your baggage is to be carried, it will be asked, “ shall I tote your plunder This use of the word plunder is said to have originated in the early predatory habits of the borderers. They also speak of a “ mighty pleasant day” — u a mighty beautiful flower” — “ mighty weak .” A gentleman, with whom I form- ed some acquaintance, invited me, when I should make “ an outing” for exercise, to call at his house ; for his family would be “ mighty glad” to see me. During our continuance at this place, we were hospitably entertained at the house of J. B. Esq., one of the judges of the county court. We were under many obligations to him and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but also for the privilege of retirement in so kind and intelligent a family. Nor would we be unmindful of the hospitality shown us by Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Y. May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course north- west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of the INDIAN TRIBES. 35 United States, and for the last time, for a long period to come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family. The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian coun- try, and encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The sensations excited by the circumstances of our situation were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt ; in a wil- derness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, en- gaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a few articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, and bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I would not dispense with attention to decencies, because beyond the boundaries of civilization ; and having adjusted every thing in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we re- tired ro rest. But how to adjust all the anxieties and feel- ings of the mind, so as- to obtain the desired repose, was a more difficult task. On the 17th, I crossed over the east, or little Platte, which is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath with Mr. Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmental black- smith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians of the Iowa, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian and his wife were noble-looking persons, having their faces painted with unmixed vermilion ; the former entirely, and the latter in stripes. They felt too important to be seen noticing what was transpiring around, and seemed to think themselves the only objects worthy of notice. Here is an excellent, fertile tract of country, and nothing discouraging for a missionary station, except the contami- nating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than on any other account ; for their game is mostly gone. One 36 BLACKSNAKE HILLS. of them' came to Mr. Gilmore to get some ploughs, and re- marked, “ it is hard work to dig up our ground for corn by hand.” The Sioux here are only a small band, who would not join Black Hawk in his war against the United States, and who are now afraid to return to their own country. Their condition is becoming more and more wretched ; for while they have not the knowledge, the means, nor much of the inclination necessary to cultivate their lands advan- tageously, they have an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits ; and there are too- many unprincipled men on our frontiers; w r ho, for the sake of gain, will supply them with the means of drunkenness and destruction. Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality, we rode on Monday, 18th, twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills, At this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, and an un- commonly fine farming establishment on the Missouri river. His buildings are on a small elevation of land, having a delightful prospect in front of more than a thousand acres of open bottom land, lying along down the river ; and hills on the north and east partially covered with woods. What has nature not wrought without the labor of man ? The herds of cattle, and other domestic animals, have as wide a range as they choose, and fences are necessary only to secure fields for cultivation. The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon w r hich the dead are placed in rudely constructed coffins overspread wfith skins. Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre- ferring the field to the house, w'here I might have been sub- jected to many kinds of annoyances. For several days nothing special occurred. On the 22d r CONSTRUCTION OF A RAFT. 37 we crossed the Nodaway river with a raft ; the construction of which, and transporting our baggage, occupied most of the day. To construct a raft, a number of dry logs are collected, and secured together, side by side, with barks stripped from elm trees ; some few men swim across the river, taking with them one end of a rope, while the other end is fastened to the raft ; it is then shoved off, the men upon the other side of the river pulling upon the rope. The raft is generally drifted considerably down stream, be- fore it is brought to land upon the opposite shore. In this manner they crossed and re-crossed, until the baggage was carried over. Then follows the swimming over the horses, which is attended with noise enough — hallooing of men, snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones to prevent them, after having gone part the way over, from returning. We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap- proached, and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very large, and when their horns are on, have a very majestic appearance. We frequently found their horns on the prairie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide- spreading branches. Sabbath, the twenty-fourth, passing over a brook near which we had encamped the evening before, my companion and myself remained for the day, while the caravan went on. The movements of the caravan are so slow, that we felt confident we could overtake them without any difficulty, and as there was no danger from the hostile Indians, we considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day was very warm for May, the thermometer standing, at two in the afternoon, at 88°. 38 NEW DIFFICULTIES. The next day we overtook the caravan before night, and crossed the south branch of the Neshnabotana on a raft. Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis- pleased, because we did not travel with them on the Sabbath. To express their displeasure, they cut some of the barks, with which the raft they had made was bound together, and set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far before it lodged against a tree, and, without much loss of time, we repaired it and passed over. On the twenty-sixth, came to the main branch of the Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finishing of which and crossing took most of the following day. The soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass for our horses excellent ; but there are none here to till the ground, nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, which might be made from the spontaneous growth. This part of the country does not yet answer the end for which it was crea- ted. The time will come, when a dense population will cover this country, who will render the sacrifice of prayer and praise to our God. On the 28 th, w^e rode eleven miles, and came to the north branch of the above mentioned river. After we had con- structed a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. The water was continually and rapidly rising, and before we finished crossing, the banks were overflowed to conside- rable depth ; and the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that we could not proceed. After searching for a long time, a place was found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when un- loaded. We had to carry our baggage upon our shoulders about fifteen rods, part of the way in water mid deep, going forward and returning until all was carried to better MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 39 ground ; and then we had to ride a mile to the dry prairie in water one and two feet deep. We rejoiced to find our- selves once more on firm footing. Encamped by a stream of clear water, which is rare in this part of the country, and especially at this season of the year. The waters of all this portion of country, especially of the Missouri river and its large tributaries, are very turbid, owing to the nature of the soil over which they pass. A pail full of water, standing half an hour at the seasons of freshets, will deposit three- eighths of an inch of sediment ; and yet the water, when settled, appeal’s to be of good quality. Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces- sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted our breakfast, dinner, and supper. The bacon we cooked, when we could obtain wood for fire ; but when “ out of sight of land,” that is, when nothing but green grass could be seen, we eat our bacon without cooking. A very few of the simplest articles of furniture were sufficient for our cul- inary purposes. The real wants of life are few, artificial ones are numerous. 30th. Drew near to Council Bluffs, and passed down from the high rolling prairie, through a vale two or three miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section of country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The mounds, which some have called the work of unknown generations of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and magnitudes ; and thousands in number, and perhaps I may say ten thousands. Some of these mounds were conical, some eliptical, some square, and others parallelograms. One group of these attracted my attention more than any others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with 40 MOUNDS OF THE WEST. their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They formed about two-thirds of a circle, with an area of two hundred feet in diameter. If these were isolated, who would not say they are artificial ? But when they are only a group of ten thousand others, which have as much the ap- pearance of being artificial, who will presume to say they are the work of man ? But if they are the work of art, and attest the number, the genius, and perseverance of de- parted nations, whose works have survived the lapse of ages, their history is shrouded in darkness. “ The mind seeks in vain for some clue to assist it in unraveling the mystery. Was their industry stimulated by the desire to protect them- selves against inroads of invaders, or were they them- selves the aggressors V 9 “ Are they the monuments of wes- tern Pharaohs, and do they conceal treasures which may yet be brought to light ?” There is nothing plainer than that they were never designed as works of defense. But some, while they admit they were not designed for offensive or defensive operations of belligerent powers, supposed they were erected as “ mausoleums, and that the difference in their size was intended to convey an idea of the difference in the relative importance of those whose bones they cover.” If this theory is true, the La Trappe on the Mississippi, which I had an opportunity of examining on my northern tour, which is as much as one hundred and fifty feet high, and covering about six acres, must inclose mighty bones, or the bones of a mighty monarch. I would not be understood to dissent from the belief, that there are artificial mounds in the great valley of the west, but I believe there is a great mistake upon this subject. It is said, by those who advocate the belief, that they are the work of ancient nations, that they present plain evidence of this, from the fact that they PAWNEE MISSION. 41 contain human bones, articles of pottery, and the like, which evince that they were constructed for burying places of the dead. That some of them have been used for burying places is undoubtedly true ; but may it not be questionable whether they were constructed, or only selected for burying places. Besides, if these mounds were works of human art, I confess myself wholly at a loss to discover the traces of design , which are always characteristic of every human ef- fort. The absence of every other vestige of a race extinct, such as monuments, walls, cities, or ruins of any descrip- tion, lead us to believe, that such a people must have lived only to burrow in the earth, as these mounds alone are all the traces they have left of their existence. Depopulate any portion of the world, with which we are acquainted, and, save the savages who roam the desert or the prairie, many centuries must elapse, before their monuments would en- tirely cease to exist. No one, who has ever seen the im- mense number of mounds scattered through the valley of the Mississippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe, that a five hundredth part of them are the work of man. We crossed the Maragine river, which, though very deep, was not so wide but that we constructed a bridge over i U Proceeding many miles through the rich bottom lands of the Missouri, we crossed this noble river over against Bellevue, in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules across, which, on account of the width of the river and the strength of the current, required much effort. I went to the agency house, where I was happy to find brethren Dun- bar and Allis, missionaries to the Pawnees, under the direction of the American Board of Commissioners for For- eign Missions. There is a Baptist mission here, composed of Rev. Moses Merrill and wife, Miss Brown, and a Chris- 5 42 PAWNEE MISSION. tian Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. Brainard’s In- dians. They are appointed by the Baptist Board to labor among the Otoe Indians, about twenty-five miles from this place, on the river Platte. These Indians are away from their intended residence about half the time, on hunting excursions. A little more than a half mile below the agency, the American Fur Company have a fort, and, in connexion, they have a farming establishment and large numbers of cattle and horses, and a horse power mill for grinding corn. BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.. 43 CHAPTER III. Continuance at Council Bluffs — interesting scenery — Indian curiosity — information obtained about several Indian tribes — Spasmodic Cholera — an Indian chief killed — leave Bellevue for the Black Hills — storm of rain — heavy thunder storm— Elkhorn river, the country around — Loups fork of the Platte — manner of encamping — Big Ax, Pawnee chief— Indian feasting — fourth of July — Messrs. Dunbar and Allis — thunder storm — Indian Ornaments — effects of drunken- ness — bite of a rattle-snake — buffalo seen — prairie horse-fly — forks of the Platte — want of wood — swiftness of antelopes — climate — thou- sands of buffalo — badgers — prairie dog— interesting bluffs — old cas- tle — the chimney, or beacon — an alarm — Ogallallah Indians, their lodges — Black Hills. Continued in this place three weeks, waiting the move- ments of the caravan, who. made slaw progress in preparing their packages for the mountains. During our continuance here, I frequently walked over the hills bordering upon the west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the pure air of the rolling prairies, and to view the magnificent prospects unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of those pro- minences, the valley of the Missouri may be traced until lost in its far winding course among the bluffs. Three miles below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable stream from the north-west, winding its way round to the east, and uniting with the Missouri, six miles above the confluence of the Platte coming from the west. These flow through a rich alluvial plain, opening to the south and south-west as far as the eye can reach. Upon these meadows are seen feed- ing some few hundreds of horses and mules, and a herd of 44 MISSIONARY PROSPECTS. cattle ; and some fields, of corn which diversify the scenery. The north is covered with woods, which are not less valua- ble than the rich vales. But few places can present a pros- pect more interesting, and when a civilized population shall add the fruits of their industry, but few can be more desi- rable. In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and con- version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn of their native character, that the first impressions which the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important in their bearings on successful labors afterwards. In things about which they are conversant, they are men ; but about other things, they are children ; and like children, the an- nouncement of a new subject awakens their attention, their curiosity, and their energies ; and it has been remarked by a Methodist missionary who has labored among the Indians, that many seemed to embrace the gospel on its first being offered, and that those among the adults, who failed to do so, were rarely converted. If, from any motives, or from any cause, instruction is delayed; and their expectations are dis- appointed, they relapse into their native apathy, from which it is difficult to arouse them. We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this place, to collect much information about the Indians in the Sioux country, from Maj. P. the agent appointed by government to the Yanktons, a band of the Sioux. He appeal's to be not only intelligent and candid, but also well disposed to- wards Indian improvement. The following is the substance of the information which he gave us in regard to several tribes to the north and north-west of this place : that the Omahaws are situated upon the Missouri, about one hundred and fifty miles above this place, and number about two SIOUX INDIANS. 45 thousand. They have been well disposed towards the whites, but, owing to their intercourse with traders and trappers, and abuses which they have received from them, they are becoming more vicious in their habits, and less friendly. Yet, kind treatment would conciliate their favor, so that there would be no reason to fear but that a mission might be established among them with fair prospects of suc- cess. The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of about two thousand people. Their village is to be located on the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri from the north. Maj. P. thinks this will be a very eligible place for a missionary station, and says he will do all in his power to aid such an enterprise. The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at the confluence of the L’eau qui coure , number six or eight hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahaws. The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux river and that on the south of the L’ectu qui coure , as high as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed under the general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhabited by the following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, already men- tioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east and west from the Missis- sippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far south as the river Platte. The real number of the several bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but probably it is from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wandering, and they rely ex- clusively upon the chase for subsistence. Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The traders have for many years maintained a friendly intercourse with them, and generally speaking, they are much attached to white men. 5 * 46 THE SPASMODIC CHOLERA. The Mandans are a much more stationary people than almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is good ; but on account of repeated ill treatment, which they have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious, and are losing confidence in white men. Our stay in this place had been protracted much beyond our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival the spas- modic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignity. The weather was very warm, and there were showers from day to day. The intemperate habits of the men, and their manner of living, probably had a tendency to induce the disease. Three of the company died ; and several others barely survived, through the blessing of God upon the as- siduous attentions ofDoct. Whitman, my associate, and the free use of powerful medicines. And, had it not been for his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and the caravan would have failed of going to the place of ren- dezvous. This was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged. This alarming disease was the means of effecting our de- parture sooner that it otherwise would have taken places It was necessary to hasten to the higher prairies, as the only prospect of escaping the farther ravages of the dis- ease. Not a single new case occurred after we recom- menced our journey. This afflictive scourge, so far as it respected Dr. W. and myself, was providential. The as- sistance we rendered the sick, and the medical skill of the Doctor, converted those into permanent friends, who had so disliked the restraints which our presence imposed upon them, that, as they afterwards confessed, they had plotted our death, and intended on the first convenient occasion to put their purpose in execution. MURDER OF A CHIEF. 47 Whilst at Bellevue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half- blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or seven men, half intoxicated, went down to his house in the night, called him up, took him away a half mile, and shot him with six balls* scalped him, and left him unburied. The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will remember this, and probably take revenge on some inno- cent persons. This, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are often produced. While we charge the Indians with invete- rate ferociousness and inhuman brutality, we forget the too numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon them, which incite them to revenge. They cannot apprehend and do justice to such offenders. Or if they could, would it not be published as a- gross Indian murder and aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced against them. When Indian offences are proclaimed, we hear only one side of the story, and the other will not be heard until the last great day. Monday, June 22d; After so long delay, we re-com- menced our journey for the a far west.” The Black Hills are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started yesterday. We passed over a rich extensive prairie, but so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream through the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, cold rain, in consequence- of which I became much chilled. Overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a high prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it' was dif- ficult to make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of corn, and some bacon for supper. . The change, from the 48 A STORM. comforts to the bare necessaries of life was trying ; but when I had wrapped myself in my blankets and laid down upon the ground to repose for the night, I felt thankful to God for his goodness. Being now beyond all white inhabitants, in an Indian country, and not knowing what the eventful future may unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests for the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instru- mental of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life or death, I thought I could say, “thy will be done.” Felt strong confidence, that God would protect and provide for us, and derived great consolation from the promise, “ Lo, I am with you always.” The very pelting of the storm upon our tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to awaken the feeling that God was near. On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not re- move our encampment. Towards noon on the 24th, w r ent forward on our way and crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much delay to get the baggage, wagons, and animals over. We did not find a suitable place for encamping where we could be ac- commodated with wood and water until about sunset ; and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which had been gathering for a long time, came down upon us with great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The ani- mals of the caravan fled in different directions, some packed and some unpacked. I had only time to unpack my mule and let him go, and it was with much difficulty I could hold my horse, which had become almost frantic under the beat- ing hail, nor did I escape without some contusions. The lightning was very frequent, and the thunder was almost one continual roar. After a while the fury of the storm A FRIENDLY MEETING. 49 abated, and in the dark we pitched our tent and got our baggage into it, but were not able- to make a fire. We took such supper as we could provide with our coarse bread and bacon, without light and without fire, and laid ourselves down to rest. During the night there were several showers which created rivulets, some of which found their way un- der our tent. Towards morning we slept, and arose some- what refreshed. The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afforded a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the caravan to collect together their packs of goods, which were scat- tered over the prairie. After having spent the forenoon in drying ancb adjusting them, we went forward and arrived at the Elkhorfij a very considerable river. For conveyance over this river, we constructed a boat of a wagon body, so covered with undressed skins as to make it nearly water tight. The method was very good, and we commenced crossing, but night came on before we finished, and there- fore we encamped on the east side. The country here is excellent, and tolerably supplied with wood. On the 26th, continued carrying over our baggage, and finished crossing at half after twelve, after which we trav- eled ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the night. On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey, and made good progress until three, P. M. when we met Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, re- turning from the Black Hills. When mountain traders meet under such circumstances there must be mutual ex- changes of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated than can be gone through with in the passing “ how do you do.” The two caravans encamped, in due form, and at a respectful distance from egch other*. 50 FUTURE PROSPECTS. Sabbath, 28th. The caravans continued here through the day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to attend to devotional exercises in our tent. On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance up Shell creek. As a traveler, I should be guilty of neglect of duty, if I should not give a description of this section of country, belonging to the Otoes on the east, and the Pawnees on the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed the Elkhorn, between this river and the Platte, which are here about ten miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is rich bot- tom land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. No country could be more inviting to the farmer, with only one exception, the want of wood land. The latitude is sufficiently high to be healthy ; and as the climate grows warmer as we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped moun- tains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced east of the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and proba- bly is not far distant, when this country will be covered with a dense population. The earth was created for the habita- tion of man, and for a theatre, on which God will manifest his perfections in his moral government among his moral creatures, and therefore the earth, according to divine pre- diction, shall be given to the people of God. Although in- fidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accom- plish his designs, and fulfil every promise contained in his word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will not continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation ; nor will millions of tons of grass grow up to rot upon the ground or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disincumber it of its spontaneous burden. The herds of buffalo which once fattened upon these meadows LOUPS FORK OF THE PLATTE. 51 are gone ; and the deer which once cropped the grass have disappeared ; and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall solitude reign here till the end of time ? No : here shall be heard the din of business, and the church-going bell shall sound far and wide. The question is, by whom shall this region of country be inhabited ? It is plain that the Indi- ans under their present circumstances will never multiply and fill this land. They must be brought under the influ- ence of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue to melt away, until nothing will remain of them but relics found in museums, and some historical records. Philan- thropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf. We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking of the day, by the usual call, “ out, out ; gear up your mules.” We traveled until one o’clock, P. M. more than eight hours, when we halted and breakfasted. We went again on our way, and came to the Loups fork of the Platte, and stopped for the night. Most of the country over which we traveled to-day was a rolling prairie. There is nothing in this sec- tion of country to interest the geologist. I did not see a single stone, after passing the Papillon to this place, except- ing a few small ones in the place where we crossed that stream, and which on that account is called Rockford. It is one of the peculiarities of the dialect of the people in the westernmost states, to call small stones rocks. And there- fore they speak of throwing a rock at a bird, or at a man. There are no forests in these western regions. The mead- ows spread out almost without bounds. There are only here and there some clumps of trees ; and the rivers and smaller streams are skirted with cotton wood, elms and wil- lows. Whatever propriety there once was, there is none now, in calling the Indians, children of the forest. 52 MANNER OF ENCAMPING. The thermometer stood to-day, at noon, at 81°. Wednesday, July 1st. I rested the last night as quietly as I should have done in a civilized country, and upon a good bed, and was cheerful in committing myself to God, to awake in this, or in the eternal world, as he shall direct. We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form- ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage so as to leave a space in the centre for our lodgings. My bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and my portmanteau constitutes my pillow. W e proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, and unexpectedly found a good fording place, where we crossed the river, which in this place is nearly a mile wide. After going a few miles up the river, we halted for the night. The manner of out encamping, is to form a large hollow square, encompassing an area of about an acre, having the river on one side ; three wagons forming a part of another side, coming down to the river ; and three more in the same manner on the opposite side ; and the packages so arranged in parcels, about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear, and the sides not occupied by the wagons. The horses and mules, near the middle of the day, are turned out under guard, to feed for two hours ; and the same again towards night, until after sunset, when they are taken up and brought into the hollow square, and fastened with ropes twelve feet long, to pickets driven firmly into the ground. The men are divided into small companies, stationed at the several parcels of goods and wagons, where they wrap themselves in their blankets and rest for the night; the whole how- ever are formed into six divisions to keep guard, relieving each other every two hours. This is to prevent hostile PAWNEE FEASTS. •53 Indians from falling upon us by surprise, or coming into the camp by stealth and taking away either horses or packages of goods. We were permitted, by favor, to pitch our tent next to the river, half way between the two wings, which made our situation a little more retired. Nothing of special interest occurred on the second. On the third, we passed the villages of the Tapage and Republi- can Pawnee Indians. These Indians have dwellings which appear substantial and somewhat adapted to comfort. Many of the Pawnee Loups came to us, and received us with great civility and kindness. Big Ax, their second chief, had charge of this party. He is a man of dignified appearance, and his countenance is expressive of intelligence and bene- volence. He is very friendly to white men. These Indians were going out upon their summer hunt, by the same route we were pursuing, and were not willing we should go on before them, lest we should frighten away the buffalo. They manifested their friendship by inviting us to feasts ; and as we may attend half a dozen in a day without being surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Big Ax gave the first invitation ; and as it is not customary for those who provide the feast to sit down with their guests, he and his associates sat in dignified silence on one side of the lodge, while those of us who partook of the feast, occu- pied the centre. The daughters of Big Ax served us on the occasion, and bountifully helped us to boiled corn and beans. Such are their customs, that to avoid giving offence, we must eat all that is set before us, or take it away, and Mr. Fontenelle took what remained. In the evening we were invited to two others. The first consisted of boiled corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of boiled buffalo meat. We also gave the principal chiefs a feast, setting 6 54 CHANGES OP THE R?VER. before them all the variety which our bacon and coarse bread could furnish, having it in our power to add a dish of coffee, of which luxury we partook for this once on our whole journey. Amidst the uniformity of prairie scenery, there is yet some variety. It was curious to mark the alterations which time and flood have made in the channel of this river. Formerly, perhaps not a few centuries ago, the river ran a hundred feet higher than at present, and it is probably owing to the yielding nature of the soil that its waters are so very turbid. The water of the Loups fork, however, comparatively speaking, is quite clear. This section of country offers an interesting field for botanical research. Since crossing the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different species of grass, most of which are entirely new. The flowering plants are very numerous and beautiful, and espe- cially the rose, which is found of almost every hue. Ther- mometer, at noon, 90°. July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the States. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of our forefathers : their audiences catch the spirit of patriotism. Not so with our company. Having almost expatriated themselves, they had forgotten their nation’s birth-day ; and knowing that their days of indulgence would be seasons of reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How suitable would be a rational religious expression of gratitude to Heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which are the com- mon demonstrations of joy on such occasions. Thermome- ter 96° at noon. On the fifth, which was the Sabbath, the caravan went forward a few miles and then encamped. The Indians were constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was pain- MISSIONARIES. 55 ful to witness their poor degraded condition, ignorant of God' and salvation, and* for want of a knowledge of their language, to be unable to point them to the Savior, or teach them their obligations to their Maker, and their duty to turn to him with their whole heart. I hope and pray that the Pawnee mission may prosper; that tlie disposition which Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go with the Indians and live as they live, may be followed 'up, until their teach- ing and influence are felt, and the Indians shall locate them- selves upon their lands, under the influence of Christianity and civilization. The mode which Messrs. D. and A. have adopted of going with the Indians where they go, appears to be the right one, and must be generally adopted to bring the numerous wandering nations and tribes to the knowledge of Christ. It is ail important that the missionary be able to speak to the heathen in the language wherein they were born. It is also important that the Indians settle down and cultivate the soil ; but how can they be induced to do this before they are taught ? Do any say, by an interpreter ? An interpreter may be employed for awhile, but the missionary must be- come, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can he not learn the Indian language as well as the trader and hunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-denial. On the sixth, we left the Loups fork, very early in the morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our course south-west for the Platte river. Towards evening, we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, which continued through most of the night ; but, protected by our tent, we slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us ; and in our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a sensible loss. 56 BIG AX. A PAWNEE CHIEF. After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up the river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indi- cates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility, but still is very good. We were prevented from making the progress we might have done, if the Indians would have permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of the cara- van began to complain of the delay, and had reason to do so, having nothing to eat«but boiled corn, and no way to obtain any thing more before finding buffalo. The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good, but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments, and not having the means of gratifying their vanity as civilized peo- ple have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their persons ; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds’ feathers, and claws of wild beasts ; the claws of a grizzly bear are an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves are in high estimation. But their most universal and particu- lar ornament is painting their faces with vermilion. These heathen, like all others, are ignorant of the benign influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old men and women. The women are compelled to do all the work — the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few horses, when they journey, they place burdens upon the old men and women, and even upon the blind and lame — and their dogs. I did not see among these Indians a single person having any natural deformity, nor any one who appeared to be de- ficient in common sense. July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse with any man and tell him about the Savior, and, from the ex- ATTEMPT TO MURDER. 57 pression of his countenance, I thought he desired to be in- structed. But the gift of tongues was not imparted to me, and we could only converse with the language of signs, which is far more intelligible than I had anticipated. Capt. Fontenelle, by a large present, purchased of the In- dians the privilege of going on to-morrow without them. Our men could hardly have been kept in subordination, if they had not consented. Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncommon storm of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and mules could not be controlled, and turned and fled in all di- rections before the storm. The whole caravan was scattered over • the prairie ; but when the storm abated, they were again collected without much difficulty, and nothing was lost. If any hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would have been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for our defence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand and truly sublime. Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God is our preserver, and how desirable it is, that his mercies should be had in grateful remembrance, and that the portion of time, which he has set apart as holy, should be observed as such. The caravan travelled a part of the day, but were under the necessity of stopping in consequence of rain, which wet their packages. It is worthy of notice, that there have been vari- ous providences, which have thus far prevented them from traveling much upon the Sabbath. But this day has been one of great confusion and wickedness. In consequence of the men being drenched with rain, whiskey was dealt out freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of them became much excited, and one, who took an active part in killing 6 * 58 MEDICINAL PLANT. Garrio, stabbed a man, with full intent to have pierced his heart ; but the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside and only made a deep flesh wound. I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in his tabernacle. July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor a solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, that have the appearance of being under good cultivation. We see no fields of grain, secured from the beasts of the earth by fences, nor habitations of civilized men, but meadows adorned with a great variety of plants, some of which ap- pear to be gregarious. Often some acres are diversified with great variety of colors and species. There are two species of plants which are said to be a sovereign remedy against the poison of the rattle-snake, the virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing. One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew it the poison had so far progressed, that both the foot and leg had become much inflamed and very painful. One of these plants was applied to the parts affected, and at once the man was convalescent, and in a few hours was well. The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue flag, except that they are serrated. The healing properties are contained in the roots, which are bruised and applied to the affected parts. Rattle-snakes are not numerous. These and other reptiles are prevented from multiplying, by the fires which every year run over the prairies. On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer- fulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was no indifferent event. F rom the immense herds of these wild ani~ BUFFALO, THEIR APPEARANCE. 59 mals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature, we were to derive our subsistence. Although several were seen to- day, yet our hunters were not successful in obtaining many. I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lan- cet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the blood immediately gushes out. When the caravan is in close company, there being about two hundred horses and mules, the number of the flies are so divided that they are mnre tolerable ; but when for any purpose a horse is separated from the company, he is severely bitten by them. On one occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing place over a deep muddy stream of water, they came around my horse in such swarms that he became frantic, and I was obliged to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse left alone in the season of these flies would be killed by them. The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, neck, and heads, make a very majestic appearance, and if their natures were unknown, would be terrific. But they are timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure any person, except in self-defense, when wounded and closely pursued. Their strength is great ; and, although they look clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a horse of more than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any considerable time . The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight ; but at a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom lands r bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scenery. The 60 DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS. entire absence of forests in a large space of country around, is a deficiency which cannot be easily supplied ; but prob- ably forest trees might be cultivated to advantage. Is it not highly probable that mineral coal will be found here as well as upon the prairies in the western states ? We found no wood yesterday, nor to-day, and probably shall not for some days to come ; and therefore we have been under the necessity of making our fires with the dry dung of the buf- falo. The most thoroughly weather-beaten is selected, and proves to be a better substitute for common fuel than we had anticipated. Although we are now where we had fears of finding the Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief has been mentioned, and who have been residing near this place for several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone far up the south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United States dragoons, under the command of Col. Dodge, who are on their way to call them to account for their conduct towards white men, and to form with them a treaty of peace. But they intend to keep out of the way of the dragoons, and therefore we hope to pass unmolested. We took our course up the north-west Fork of the Platte, and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. W e all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the sentinel’s fire, we might in less than a moment be ready for action ; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the first breaking of the day we were awakened with the cus- tomary call of the guide. ANTELOPES. 61 Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, and nearer than previously. They are less shy than those we first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but less beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous, and their speed exceeds that of any animal I have ever seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them the chase ; for the dogs are so soon left far in the rear, that they do not follow more than ten or twenty rods, before they return, looking ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters occasionally take some by coming upon them by stealth. When they are surprised, they start forward a very small space, then turn, and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at the object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whis- tling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far more beau- tiful. Though they are of different colors, yet they are generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent eye. Their flesh is good for food, and about equal to venison. July 17th. We did not go on our way as early this morning as usual, having been detained by breaking an axle-tree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming more hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to the river. Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction, and they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pas- ture. The thermometer stood at noon at 88°. Encamped a little below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars scattered over them, which promise a better supply of fuel. Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c. it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of coun- 62 SHOOTING BUFFALO. try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New England States. As we advance, the flowering plants are becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not per- ceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of light brown color is found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which might be easily worked and to any extent. Very small black gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, have been nu- merous and very annoying, and for several days we rode with silk handkerchiefs closely tied over our faces to pro- tect us from their poisonous bite. July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day, and our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at them ; but it was well for the buffalo that they made poor shots. I can hardly reconcile it with a good conscience, to trifle with the life even of the most insignificant animals, yet, for once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my horse in the chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, and would have rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, had I not held him in check. At that time, not being sufficiently acquainted with this species of amusement, and intending to make sure of my victim, I dismounted in order to take a more steady aim than I could have otherwise done ; and by so doing, as our guide afterwards informed me, placed myself in imminent danger ; for the animal, if wounded, often turns upon his antagonist to retaliate his injuries. Fortunately, though I wounded one, he did not rise upon me, and I re- turned to the caravan unconscious of danger. Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell* BADGERS— PRAIRIE DOGS. 63 mgs, they most be very numerous, though we have seen only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their burrows, and run into them on the least approach of danger. The badger is of the genus ursus , about the size of the mar- mot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery gray color, with short legs, and its whole aspect is interesting. I did not have an opportunity to learn many of its habits. A small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in this section of country. It takes its name, not from its appearance, but from its barking, which is like that of a very small dog. It is of a brown color, and its fur is of superior fineness. It is very shy and difficult to be taken. Was it not for this last circumstance, I should think it might be an important article of traffic. We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting bluffs composed of indurated clay ; many of them very high, with perpendicular sides, and of almost every imaginable form. Some appeared like strong fortifications with high citadels ; some like stately edifices with lofty towers. I had never before seen any thing like them of clay formation < And what adds to their beauty is, that the clay of which they are composed, is nearly white. Such is the smoothness and whiteness of the perpendicular sides and offsets ; and such the regularity of their straight and curved lines, that one can hardly believe that they are not the work of art. It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at noon, at 90°, and at five o’clock, P. M. at 100°. There were no prairie winds as usual. Almost every day winds blow over the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. They gene- rally commence about eight in the morning, and continue through the day. These winds render the traveling com- fortable, although the thermometer may range high. 64 THE OLD CASTLE. We encamped to-day in the neighborhood of a great nat- ural curiosity, which, for the sake of a name, I shall call the old castle. It is situated upon the south side of the Platte, on a plain, some miles distant from any elevated land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width of the river, all the appearance of an old enormous building, somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing avails, the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and almost the very windows ; and large guard-houses, standing some rods in front of the main building. You unconsciously look around for the enclosures, but they are all swept away by the lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but they have disap- peared ; all is silent and solitary. Although you correct your imagination, and call to remembrance, that you are beholding the work of nature, yet, before you are aware, the illusion takes you again, and your curiosity is excited to know who built this fabric, and what have become of the by-gone generations. I found it impossible to divest myself of such impressions. The longer and the more minutely I ex- amined it, the more I saw to admire ; and it reminded me of those descriptions of pow r er and grandeur in ruins, of which we read of ancient times and nations. Encamped at noon of the 22d, near another of nature's wonders. It has been called the chimney ; but I should say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance to what was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to have a near view, although in a land of dangers, I concluded to take an assistant and pass over the river to it. The river where we crossed was about a mile wide, shallow and full of quicksand, but we passed it without any difficulties. We rode about three miles over a level plain, and came to the AN ALARM. 65 base. This distance from the other side of the river did not appear more than a mile, so deceptive are distances over plains without any landmarks. This beacon hill has a conical formed base of about half a mile in circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet in height ; and above this a perpendicular column, twelve feet square, and eighty feet high ; making the whole height about two hundred and thirty feet. We left our horses at the base, and ascended to the perpendicular. It is formed of indurated clay or marl, and in some parts is petrified. It is of a light chocolate, or rufous colour, in some parts white. Near the top were some handsome stalactites, at which my assistant shot, and broke off some pieces, of which I have taken a small specimen. We descended, and having finished my survey, had just mounted our horses, when we saw two bands of buffalo, six or eight hundred in number, coming full speed towards us, taking their course down the river. We knew somebody must be pursuing them, and as, from indications for two days past, we had suspected Indians near, we thought it would be the safest for us to make and secure a speedy retreat to the caravan, and set off in haste for the river, which at the nearest point was two miles distant. Very soon we saw a man on horseback coming full speed towards us — he stopped and gave a signal for others behind him to hasten on, and at once we saw a band of men coming full rush. We put our horses to their utmost speed, and when we thought our retreat to the river fully secured, we stopped and took an observation with 'a large spy-glass, which we had taken the precaution to have with us, and found they were white men, who had come from a fort of the American Fur Company at the Black Hills, to meet the caravan. Mr. Fontenelle, the commander of the caravan, saw^ the move- 7 66 SCOfT’s BLUFFS# ment, was alarmed for our safety, and came out in all haste, with a number of armed men to our assistance. But all re- sulted in friends meeting friends. There were some Ogal- lallah Indians near us, who came to our camp in the even- ing. Thermometer 90°. On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped near Scott’s bluffs. These are the termination of a high range of land running from south to north. They are very near the river, high and abrupt, and what is Worthy of notice, there is a pass through the range a short distance back from the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular sides two or three hundred feet high# It appears as though a part of the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a few rods to the north. Instead of journeying, the naturalist would desire ^veeks to examine the interesting scenery of this sec- tion of country, and the more minute his examination the more would he find to gratify his curiosity. This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some places in large quantities in a crystalized state. Our hor- ses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90 Q . While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were alarmed with the call, “ secure your animals ! secure your animals !” I looked around to discover the cause of the alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half distance, some thirty or forty Indians coming on horseback at full speed# We had not more than half secured our animals and pre- pared for defence, when the Indians were close upon us ; whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they were THE OGALLALLAHS. 67 nearly within rifle shot, when, according to the customary expression of friendship, they fired their guns into the air, and then rushed into our camp, and exchanged salutations of peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their chiefs, clad in their war habiliments, and presenting some- what of a terrific appearance. The chiefs dined with us, and were very talkative among themselves ; for, not hav- ing any good interpreter, we could not join in conversation with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly, and to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole village was only a few hours travel ahead of us, going to the Black Hills for the purpose of trading. On the 25th, the heat was very oppressive in the middle of the day, there not being as much wind as usual. Ther- mometer 92®. Towards evening, we came to the main vil- lage of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two thou- sand persons. These villages are not stationary, but move from place to pi&ce, as inclination or convenience may dic- tate. Their lodges are comfortable, and easily transported. They are constructed of eight or ten poles about eighteen feet long, set up in a circular form, the small ends fastened together, making an apex, and the large ends are spread out so as to enclose an area of about twenty feet in diame- ter. The whole is covered with their coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when they are not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre, a hole being left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to pass out. All that they have for household furniture, clothing, and skins for beds, is deposi- ted around according to their ideas of propriety and conve- nience. Generally not more than one family occupies a lodge. These are the finest looking Indians I have ever seen. The men are generally tall and well proportioned ; 68 A SABBATH AMONG THEM. the women are trim, and less pendulous than is common among Indian women, and all were well dressed and clean- ly. They came around us in multitudes, and manifested great curiosity to see whatever we had. I did not know why, but my boots were particularly examined ; probably they had never seen any before, as moccasons are worn, not only by Indians, but also by* traders and hunters. Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama’s fork in the Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal- lallahs came to my tent while I w^as reading the Bible, and observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason why I was differently employed from others. I endeavored to make them understand by the language of signs, that I was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to wor- ship him. After spending some time in teaching them to read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn, which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand, and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, we want to know what all this means. My spirit was pained within me, and I anxiously desired to understand their lan- guage, that I might tell them about Christ, the only Savior. The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, why will not some of the many Christian young men of the east, exercise so much self-denial, as to come and teach them the way of sal- vation ? In such a labor what Christian would not glory ? And if there should be any tribulations attendant on the enter- prise, would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations ? At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped near the fort in our usual form. BLACK HILLS. 69 CHAPTER IV. Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo dance — the desire of Indians for instruction — met the chiefs in council — re-commenced our jour- ney for rendezvous — anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red Bute — traces of grizzly bears — geology — Rock Independence — Rocky Mountains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains — “ thunder spirits” gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado. The Black Hills do not derive their name from any thing peculiar in the color of the soil and rocks of which they are composed, but are so called from being covered with shrubby cedars, which give them a dark appearance when seen at a distance. The alluvial soil upon the rivers and in the valleys is very good, but upon the higher lands and hills, it is thin and rather barren, and in many parts full of stones, which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur of the Rocky Moun- tains is seen from this place, which is forty or fifty miles distant, and is probably five thousand feet high. At this place the caravan halted, and according to imme- morial usage, the men were allowed a “ day of indulgence,’ 5 as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits as much as they please, and conduct as they choose. Not unfrequently the day terminates with a catastrophe of some kind, and to-day one of the company shot another with the full inten- tion to have killed him. The ball entered the back, and came out at the side. The wounded man exclaimed, “ I am a dead man but after a pause, said, “ No, I am not hurt.” The other immediately seized a rifle to finish the work, but 7 * 70 BUFFALO DANCE. was prevented by the bystanders, who wrested it from him and discharged it into the air. July 28th. The day of indulgence being past, a quiet day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by conse- quent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so high yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The men were seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could scarcely be roused to the business of making repairs and arrange- ments for the long journey yet before us. The Indians were active, and manifested a disposition to be sociable and kind, and also to open a trade with us in various articles, such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; and desired in return, knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c. Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer stood in the middle of the day at 98°, but the heat was relieved by the usual prairie winds. On the 29th, the Ogallallah Indians w T ho accompanied us, had a buffalo and a dog dance, the real object of which I could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from some superstitious notion that their success in hunting de- pended on these rites, or whether the custom originated in the gratitude of their hearts for past successes, or more pro- bably as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I wit- nessed the first mentioned ceremony, and w^as content to dispense with the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large number of young men, dressed with the skins of the neck and head of buffalos with their horns on, moved round in a dancing march. They shook their heads, imitated the low bellowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same time men and women sung a song, accompanied with the beating of a sort of drum. I cannot say I was much amused to see how w r ell they could imitate brute beasts, while ignorant THE 0GALL ALLAKS . 71 of God and salvation. The impressive enquiry was con- stantly on my mind, what will become of their immortal spirits ? Rational men imitating beasts, and old gray-head- ed men marshaling the dance ! and enlightened white men encouraging it by giving them intoxicating spirits, as a re- - ward for their good performance. I soon retired, and was pleased to find that only a small number of the Indians took any part in the dance. An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, came to me again to-day, and manifested that he wished me to instruct him. I endeavored to communicate to his mind some ideas of God, and sang the hymn, “ Watchman, tell us of the night.” He and those with him, shook hands with me as a token of their satisfaction, and l§ft me. He soon returned, however, bringing others, that they too, might hear what he had heard with so much apparent pleasure, and they again shook hands with me. This was several times repeated. These Indians appear not only friendly to white men, but kind in their intercourse with each other, and in no instance did I witness any quarrels among them. Their minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, their per- sons are finely formed, and many of them are truly “ na- ture’s grenadiers.” The women are graceful, and their voices are soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised to see tall young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode, walking arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I had not expected to see among those whom we term' “ savages.” It is true that they are heathen, in all the guilt of sin and destitute of the knowledge of God, and the hopes of the gospel, but in politeness and decency, as well as in many other respects, they are very unlike the frontier Indians, who have been corrupted and degra- 72 COUNCIL WITH THE SIOUX. # ded by their acquaintance with ardent spirits, and wicked white men. On the 30th, we met in council with the chiefs of this tribe, to lay before them the object of our tour, and to know if they would wish to have missionaries sent among them to teach them to read and write, and especially how to worship God. They expressed much satisfaction with the proposal, and said they would do all they could to make their condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, that this community of the Sioux would be a promising field for laborers. They are inquisitive, and their language is dis- tinct and sonorous. On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81°. August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, we re- commenced our journey, and the next point to which we direct our course is across the Rocky Mountains, where the general rendezvous will be held. Our wagons were left at the fort of the Black Hills, and all our goods were packed upon mules. Several of our company went out into various parts of this country to hunt and trap, but as many more joined us for the mountains, so that our number is not diminished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped at the fort, and Mr. Fitz Patrick took his place in charge of the caravan. We had received during our journey to this place, many kind attentions from Mr. F. as well as the privilege of traveling under his protection, for which we offered him a remunera- tion, but he declined it, saying, “ If any one is indebted, it is myself, for you have saved my life, and the lives of my men.” We shall gratefully remember their kindness. Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devo- tional exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God’s house. ANTHRACITE COAL. 73 We found on the 3d but very little grass for our horses and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil, the proximity of the snow-topped mountains, and the gra- zing of numerous herds of buffalos and antelopes. To save distance in following the bends of the river, we passed to-day over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I had found, before I arrived at the Black Hills, some loose specimens of anthracite coal on the banks of streams, but to-day I found a regular “ cropping out ” of coal, the same to all appearances as I have seen in the coal basins of Penn- sylvania. The existence of a coal basin here is also con- firmed by indications of iron ore. Certainly an invaluable substance, should it prove abundant, to the future inhabi- tants of a country so destitute of other fuel. This was the first discovery of coal in this region. A range of mountains, a spur of which is seen from Larama’s fork in the Black Hills, runs parallel with the river, ten or fifteen miles dis- tant, and some of the peaks are very high. August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. I discovered more anthracite, indicating large quantities ; also, in one place, yellow sand stone of remarkably fine texture. It undoubtedly would answer an excellent pur- pose for polishing metals. A species of wormwood grows in great quantities in this region, where the soil is gravelly and barren. Some of it grows eight or ten feet high, and four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to trav- eling. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any animal will taste it unless compelled by extreme hunger. The prairie hen, however, crops the buds or leaves, which renders it flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw some granite to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite in parts of the Atlantic states. What I had seen before in boulders 74 GRIZZLY BEARS. was of the red cast, like that which is found about Lake Superior. On the 5th, we arose at the first breaking of the day and proceeded on our route, making forced marches through this barren region. Encamped towards night at a place called the Red Bute, which is a high bluff of land, resem- bling red ochre in color, but composed of clay somewhat indurated. This is a central place for Indians traveling east or west, north, or south. Here the north-west branch of the Platte, along which we have been traveling, comes from a southern direction, the head of w r hich is about one hundred and fifty miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over to the Sweetwater, a branch of the Platte, which comes from the west. We saw to-day tracks of grizzly bears, which were perfectly fresh, and were indicative of their formidable size and strength. One with two large cubs passed out of some gooseberry and currant bushes near the river, as we proceeded abound to an open spot of ground for an encamping place. Lieut. S. of the dragoons, a man of undoubted veracity, told me he saw several buffalos pass- ing near some bushes, where a grizzly bear lay concealed, and the bear with one stroke tore three ribs from a buffalo and laid it dead. It has been said, if you meet one of these bears, you must either kill him, or be killed ; but this is not true, unless you come upon them suddenly, or wound them. If you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases, withdraw, showing that the fear of man is upon them as well as upon other beasts. August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming more interesting, as we approach the mountains. I saw to-day, not only granite in situ , but also a quantity of the most beautiful serpentine I ever beheld.. It was semi-transparent ROCK INDEPENDENCE, 75 and of a deep green hue, very much resembling specimens of emerald which I saw in the mineralogical cabinet at New Haven. I regretted the necessity which a long jour- ney, yet before me, imposed of passing by opportunities for making collections. Passed Rock Independence, on the 7th. This is the first massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, which divides North America, and forms, together with its barrens on each side, a natural division. This rock takes its name from the circumstance of a company of fur traders suspend- ing their journey, and here observing, in due form, the an- niversary of our national freedom. It is an immensely huge rock of solid granite, entirely bare and covering several acres. Advancing a little distance, we came to a stream of no inconsiderable size, which has its origin in the moun- tains, and to which the name of Sweetwater has been given on account of its purity. We followed up the course of this river for several days. In one place it passes a small branch of the mountains, through a narrow chasm only thirty or forty feet wide, and more than three hundred feet high. The caravan passed around the point of this mountain, and to obtain a better prospect of this natural curiosity, I left them and rode to it, A deep-toned roar is heard as the river dashes its way through the rocky pas- sage. The sight is soon intercepted by its winding course, and the darkness caused by the narrowness and deepness of the avenue. Passed to-day, several small lakes of erystalized epsom salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is evaporated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality and depth, but finding my horse, sinking as in quicksand, I was glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be beneath, 76 APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS. whether salt in a less solid state than on the surface, or quicksand, yet large quantities of good quality might be easily collected. The mountains are indeed rocky mountains. They are rocks heaped upon rocks, with no vegetation, excepting a few cedars growing out of the crevices near their base. Their tops are covered with perpetual snow, which are seen on our left and before us. As we advanced, the atmosphere was increasingly more chilling through the night and most of the day, excepting the middle, which to-day was very warm ; the thermometer standing at 84°. Sabbath, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of the privileges of the sanctuary and its ordinances, as well as I could by reading, and recalling to mind portions of the scriptures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, but neglected catechism. One needs to be on heathen ground to realize the solitariness of absence from the social wor- ship, where “ The cheerful songs and solemn tows Make their communion sweet.” On the 10th, cold winds were felt from the snow-topped mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage through these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the ascent and descent, that I should not have known that we were passing them, had it not been that as we advanced the atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at length we saw the perpetual snows upon our right hand amd upon our left, elevated many thousand feet above us — in some places ten thousand. The highest part of these mountains are found by measurement, to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. This valley was not discovered until some years since. Mr. Hunt and his party, more than twenty THUNDER SPIRITS DEPARTED. 77 years ago, went near but did not find it, though in search of some favorable passage. It varies in width from three to fifteen miles ; and following its course, the distance through the mountains is about eighty miles, or four days’ journey. Though there are some elevations and depres- sions in this valley, yet comparatively speaking, it is level. There would be no difficulty in the way of constructing a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean ; and prob- ably the time may not be very far distant, when trips will be made across the continent, as they have been made to the Niagara Falls, to see nature’s wonders. In passing the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains we heard none of those “ successive reports resembling the discharge of several pieces of artillery,” mentioned by some authors as common “ in the most calm and serene weather, at all times of the day or night nor did we witness “ lightning and thunder, pealing from clouds gathering round the summits of the hills” or mountains. “ The thunder spirits, who fabricate storms and tempests,” appear to have closed their labors, and the Indian tribes no longer “ hang offerings on the trees to pro- pitiate the invisible lords of the mountains.” The geology presents some variety ; for while the main ridge of the mountains is granite, yet to-day parallel ridges of red secondary Sandstone have abounded. They appear to have been affected by heat ; and some elevating force has broken them into dyke-like ridges at different distances from each other, running from east north-east to west south- west. The strata are mostly vertical, but some have a slight dip to the south. We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon, and the men were called to arms. They all rushed forth full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger, 8 78 BIG SANDY RIVER. Only one Indian made his appearance upon the hill, at the foot of which we were encamped. This was taken as an indication that others were near, which was the fact ; but he and they retreated. August 11th. The last night was very cold — we had a heavy frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the thermo- meter stood at 24°. Our early morning ride was not very comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our men who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses and mules began to show that constant labor, without sufficient food, was not favorable to strength, and some of them failed. To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, one of the upper branches of the Colorado, which empties into the gulf of California. Along its banks are some Norway and pitch pine, and a very few small white pines, and clumps of com- mon poplar. In some of the low vales, there were beautiful little fresh roses, which bloomed amidst the desolations around. “ How ornamental are the works of nature ! She seems to decorate them all, as if each spot was a garden, in which God might perchance walk, as once in Eden.” THE RENDEZVOUS. 79 CHAPTER V. Arrive at rendezvous — trappers and hunters — four Indian nations — Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called — surgical ope- rations — an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce chiefs their anxiety for religious instruction — return of Doct. Whitman — Shoshones and Utaws — mountain life. After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a . branch of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches. Al- though we were emerging from the mountains, yet peaks covered with perpetual snow were seen in almost every di- rection, and the temperature of the air was uncomfortably, cold. I found to-day some beautiful calcedony, of which I took a specimen, and also green stone, quartz, and trap in large quantities. In the afternoon, we came to the Green river, a branch of the Colorado, in latitude 42°, where the caravan hold their rendezvous. This is in a widely extended valley, which is pleasant, with a soil sufficiently fertile for cultivation, if the climate was not so cold. Like the coun- try we have passed through, it is almost entirely prairie, with some woods skirting the streams of water. The American Fur Company have between two and three hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, enga- ged in trading, hunting and trapping. These all assemble at rendezvous upon the arrival of the caravan, bring in their furs, and take new supplies for the coming year, of clothing, ammunition, and goods for trade with the Indians. But few of 80 SURGICAL OPERATIONS. these men ever return to their country and friends. Most of them are constantly in debt to the company, and are unwil- ling to return without a fortune ; and year after year passes away, while they are hoping in vain for better success. Here were assembled many Indians belonging to four different nations ; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan, to exchange furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer- chandise. I was disappointed to see nothing peculiar in the Flathead Indians to give them their name. Who gave them this name, or for what reason, is not known. Some suppose it was given them in derision for not flattening their heads, as the Chenooks and some other nations do, near the shores of the Pacific. It may be so, but how will those who indulge this imagination, account for the Nez Perces being so called, since they do not pierce their noses ? This name could not be given them in derision, because those near the Pacific, who flatten their heads, also pierce their noses. That those names have been given by white men, is evi- dent, since they do not call each other by the names which signify either flat head or pierced nose. While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was called to perform some very important surgical operations. He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the back of Capt. Bridger, which was received in a skirmish, three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It w r as a difficult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance had grown around it. The Doctor pursued the operation with great self-possession and perseverance ; and his pa- tient manifested equal firmness. The Indians looked on meanwhile, with countenances indicating wonder, and in AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS. 81 their own peculiar manner expressed great astonishment when it was extracted. The Doctor also extracted another arrow from the shoulder of one of the hunters, which had been there two years and a half. His reputation becoming favorably established, calls for medical and surgical aid were almost incessant. After spending a few days in collecting and digesting in- formation in regard to this country and the condition of the people, we had an interesting interview with the chiefs of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid before them the ob- ject of our appointment, and explained to them the benevo- lent desires of Christians concerning them. We then en- quired whether they wished to have teachers come among them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his wor- ship, and the way to be saved ; and what they would do to aid them in their labors. The oldest chief of the Flatheads arose, and said, “ he was old, and did not expect to know much more ; he was deaf, and could not hear, but his heart was made glad, very glad, to see what he had never seen before, a man near to God,” (meaning a minister of the gos- pel.) Next arose Insala, the most influential chief among the Flathead nation, and said, “ he had heard, a man near to God was coming to visit them, and he, with some of his people, together with some white men, went out three days’ journey to meet him, but missed us. A war party of Crow Indians came upon them, and took away some of their hor- ses, and one from him which he greatly loved, but now he ; forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near to God.” There was a short battle, but no lives were lost. The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-su-watish, arose, and said ; “ he had heard from white men a little about God, which had only gone into his ears ; he wished to , 8 * 82 DR. WHITMAN’S PROPOSAL. know enough to have it go down into his heart, to influence his life, and to teach his people.” Others spoke to the same im- port, and they all made as many promises as we could desire. The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi- sing field for missionary labor, which is white for the har- vest, and the indications of divine providence in regard to it are plain, by their anxiety to obtain Christian knowledge. Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and prayerful consideration, in regard to these Indians, we came to the conclusion, that, though many other important sta- tions might be found, this would be one. So desirable did this object appear, that Dr. Whitman proposed to return with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out with him the next year, with the then returning caravan, and es- tablish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save at least a year, in bringingthe gospel among them. In view of the importance of the object, I readily consented to the proposal, and to go alone with the Indians the remainder of my exploring tour. Dr. Whitman, on further considera- tion, felt some misgivings about leaving me, lest, if any ca- lamity should befall me, he should be blamed by the Chris- tian public. It was my desire that no disquietude should be felt for me, for we could not go safely together without di- vine protection, and with it I was secure in any situation. This confidence inspired me with all the courage I needed, and composed my mind in regard to coming dangers, as it had sustained me under those that were past. Met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I stated to them the contemplated return of Doctor Whitman. They were much pleased, and promised to assist me, and to send a convoy with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla, on the Columbia river. They selected one of their princi- SHOSHONES. 83 pal young men for my particular assistant, as long as I should have need of him, who was called Kentuc ; and I engaged a voyageur , who understood English, and also the Nez Perce language sufficiently well to interpret common business, and some of the plain truths of our holy religion, to go with me while I should continue with these tribes. We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and Utaws, to propose the subject of missions among them, lest we should excite expectations which would not soon be ful- filled. We were the more cautious upon this subject, be- cause it is difficult to make an Indian understand the dif- ference between a proposal and a promise. The Shoshones are a very numerous nation, and appear friendly. They are probably the most destitute of the necessaries of life of any Indians west of the mountains. Their country lies south-west of the south-east branch of the Columbia, and is said to be the most barren of any part of the country in these western regions. They are often called Snakes and Root Diggers, from being driven to these resorts to sustain life ; and parts of the year they suffer greatly from hunger and cold. They are more squalid than any Indians I have seen ; but their poverty does not lessen their need of salva- tion through Christ. The Utaws are decent in appearance, and their country, which is toward Santa Fe, is said to be tolerably good. A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous, and when all the mountain men had assembled, another day of indulgence was granted to them, in which all restraint was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter’s happiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place near evening, as a specimen of mountain life. A hunter, who goes technically by the name of the great bully of the 84 MOUNTAIN LITE. mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and chal- lenged, any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, to fight him in single combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if he wished to die, he would accept the challenge. Shunar defied him. C. mounted his horse, and with a load- ed pistol, rushed into close contact, and both almost at the same instant fired. C’s ball entered S’s hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. Shunar'* s ball passed over the head of Carson ; and while he went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might be spared. Such scenes, sometimes from passion, and some- times for amusement, make the pastime of their wild and wandering life. They appear to have sought for a place where, as they would say, human nature is not oppressed by the tyranny of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied forms to which human nature, without the restraints of civil government, and cultivated and polished society, may be supposed to yield. In the absence of all those motives, which they would feel in moral and religious society, re- finement, pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even conscience, give place to unrestrained dissoluteness. Their toils and privations are so great, that they more readily com- pensate themselves by plunging into such excesses, as in their mistaken judgment of things, seem most adapted to give them pleasure. They disdain the common-place phrases of profanity which prevail among the impious vulgar in civil- ized countries, and have many set phrases, which they ap- pear to have manufactured among themselves, and which, in their imprecations, they bring into almost every sentence and on all occasions. By varying the tones of their voices, they make them expressive of joy, hope, grief, and anger. DEMORALIZING INFLUENCES. 85 In their broils among themselves, which do not happen every day, they would not be ungenerous. They would see “ fair play,” and would “ spare the last eye and would not tole- rate murder, unless drunkenness or great provocation could be pleaded in extenuation. Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been lamentable, and they have practiced impositions upon them, in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said they have sold them packs of cards at high prices, calling them the Bible ; and have told them, if they should refuse to give white men wives, God would be angry with them and punish them eternally : and on almost any occasion when their wishes have been resisted, they have threatened them with the wrath of God. If these things are true in many instances, yet from personal observation, I should be- lieve, their more common mode of accomplishing their wishes has been by flattery and presents ; for the most of them squander away their wages in ornaments for their women and children. The Indians, with whom I was to travel, having appoint- ed the 21st to commence the journey for their country, a few days were occupied in writing to my family, the Ame- rican Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and other friends ; and also in making preparations for my jour- ney to Walla Walla. While we continued in this place, though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights were frosty, and ice was frequently formed. 86 DEPARTURE OF DOCT. WHITMAN. CHAPTER VI. Part with my associate — arrive at head waters of the Columbia — kind- ness of the Indians — narrow defile — geology — Jackson’s Hole — wild flax — trappers go out on a hunt — mountain prospect — Trois Tetons — danger from affrighted buffalo — Pierre’s Hole — Volcanic chasm — children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians — bu- rial of a child — scarcity of food — a timely supply — Salmon river — expected battle — geological observations — scene of mourning. August 21st, commenced our journey in company with Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eight days’ journey on our route. Instead of going down on the south-west side of Lewis’ river, we concluded to take our course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are three very high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, separated from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are seen at a very great distance ; and from thence to Salmon river. Went only about three miles from the place of rendezvous, and encamped. On the 22d, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned with the caravan to the United States. My anxious desire was, that the Lord would go with him and make his way prosperous, and make him steadfast to the object of his re- turn, until it should be accomplished ; and that, with next year’s caravan, he might come with associates into this promising field, and with them reap a plentiful harvest. To-day we traveled twenty miles, through a somewhat bar- ren country, and down several steep descents, and arrived at what is called Jackson’s Hole, and encamped upon a PUBLIC WORSHIP. 87 small stream of water, one of the upper branches of the Columbia river. It was interesting to find myself, for the first time, upon the waters of this noble river. The Indians were very attentive to all my wants — took the entire care of my packed animals, cooking, &c. They preserve par- ticular order in their movements. The first chief leads the way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, and after these the women and children. The place assigned me was with the first chief. Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a small number. These furnished a timely supply, as our provisions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of the Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve mine. Sabbath, 23d. Had an opportunity for rest and devo- tional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship with those of the company who understood English. The men conducted with great propriety, and listened with at- tention. I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them for their sins, but endeavored affectionately to show them, that they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be happy in the employments of that holy place, unless they should first experience a great moral change of heart by the grace of God, since the only source of happiness in heaven con- sists in serving and glorifying God forever. The place of our encampment was such as would naturally fill the mind with solemnity — just above a very deep and narrow defile which we had to pass, called by the hunters Kenyan. So high were the mountains, that some of them were tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow the passage, that twi- light shades obscured the view. The distance through must occupy more than a half day’s journey. 88 A DANGEROUS PASS GEOLOGY. Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way through the narrow defile, frequently crossing and re-cross- ing a large stream of water which flows into the Snake river. The scenery was wild and in many parts sublime — moun- tains of rock, almost perpendicular, shooting their heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one place project- ing over our path, if a zigzag trail can be called a path. Often we had to pass over the sides of mountains, which in- clined at an angle of 45° toward the stream of water below, and down which packed mules have fallen, and been dashed upon the rocks. I endeavored to guide my Indian horse so cautiously that he became unmanageable, being resolved to have his own method of choosing the way. I was under the necessity of dismounting and making the best of my way. But on farther acquaintance with Indian horses, I learned that their dashing mode of going ahead, even in dangerous places, was preferable to the most cautious management of the American. For some miles there was Sandstone in ridges at equal distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six to ten feet wide, rising a little above the surface of the earth, running from south-east to north-west ; la)dng in strata dipping to the west at an angle of 60°. At some distance I obser- ved a mountain of red earth of similar character, excepting that the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 40°. In one place where the strata of rocks and earth were in waves nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, of a wedge form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular position, as though the mountain had been rent asunder, and the chasm filled with the perpendicular wedge. A great diversity of the strata of rocks and earth prevailed in every part. To- wards the last of the way through this narrow defile, we KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES. 89 came to what appeared to be magnesian limestone, stratified, of a brown color, and very hard. As we passed on we saw dark brown gypsum, like that found in the western part of the state of New York. Here for some distance I was much annoyed with the strong scent of sulphureted hydrogen, and soon saw at the foot of the mountain under the bed of gyp- sum a large sulphur spring, which sent up more than thir- ty gallons of water per minute. Around this spring were large quantities of incrusted sulphur, and so strongly is the water saturated, that it colors the water of the river, on the side next to the spring, a greenish yellow, for more than a mile below. We passed more forests to-day, than since we left Rock Independence; among which is Norway pine, balsam fir, double spruce, and common poplar — some low cedar and flowering raspberry, and various species of shrubbery which are not found in the United States. The Indians were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see who could do the most for my comfort, so that they more than antici- pated my wants. Two little girls brought me a quart of strawberries, a rare dish for this season of the year. And an Indian brought me some service berries, which are large, purple, and oblong, of a pleasantly sweet taste, similar to whortleberries. We encamped upon a fertile plain, sur- rounded by mountains, where three years before three men were killed by a small war party of Blackfeet Indians. There were seven of the hunters, and when they saw the Blackfeet, they all fled in different directions, and by so doing emboldened the Indians to the pursuit. Had they stood firm and combined, it is probable they would have escaped unhurt. We traveled four hours on the 25th, to another branch of Lewis’ or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleasant 9 90 WILD FLAX* valley, commonly called Jackson’s large hole* It is fertile and well watered with a branch of Lewis’ river coming from the south-east, and another of some magnitude, coming from the north-east, which is the outlet of Jackson’s lake, a body of water laying back of the Trois Tetons* There are also many very large springs of water of uncommon clearness, which issue from the base of the surrounding mountains. This valley is well supplied with grass of excellent quality, which was very grateful to our horses and mules, and the avidity with which they helped themselves seemed to say, they would be remunerated for past deprivations. Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In every thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the flax which is cultivated in the United States— the stalk, the boll, the seed, the blue flower closed in the day time and open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for making fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be mowed like grass ; for the roots are too large and run too deep into the earth, to be pulled like ours — and an advantage, which this would have, is, that there would be a saving of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy the experiment of our agricultural societies ? Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good currants, which were delicious in this land. There are several species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow and pale red were the best flavored. W e continued in this encampment three days, to give our animals an opportunity to recruit, and for Captain Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into the mountains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the probability, that most of these men would never return to their friends, but would find their graves in the mountains, my heart was pained for them, and especially at their thoughtlessness A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 91 about the great things of the eternal world. I gave each of them a few tracts, for which they appeared grateful, and said they would be company for them in their lonely hours ; and as they rode away, I could only pray for their safety and salvation. During our continuance here, I took an Indian for an as- sistant, and ascended one of the highest mountains in the vicinity, to view the surrounding country. The prospect was as extensive as the eye could reach, diversified with mountains, hills, plains, and valleys. Most of the mountains were covered with woods ; but the plains and valleys were covered with grass, presenting less of bright green, however^ than might be expected where the summer is favored with dews and rains. But the whole was a scene of perfect en- chantment. About sixty miles to the east the Rocky moun- tains lay stretched through the whole extent of vision, spread out like luminous clouds in the horizon ; their summits so elevated, that no soil ever rises to sully the pure whiteness of their everlasting snows, and tinged and mellowed with a golden hue by the rays of the sun. Not very far to the north, the Trois Tetons, a cluster of high pointed mountains, covered with perpetual snow, rising ten thousand feet almost perpendicularly, were distinctly visible, with two others of the same form but of less magnitude. Only three of the cluster are so high as to be seen at a very great distance. Here I spent much time in looking over the widely extended and varied scenery, sometimes filled with emotions of the sublime, in beholding the towering mountains ; sometimes with pleasure in tracing the windings of the streams in the vale below ; and these sensations frequently gave place to astonishment, in viewing the courses in which the rivers flow on their way, unobstructed by mountain barriers. After 92 A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. some hours occupied in this excursion, I descended to the encampment much gratified with what I had seen of the works of God. The soil in this valley and upon the hills, is black and rich, and the time will come, when the solitude which now prevails will be lost in the lowing of herds and bleating of flocks, and the plough will cleave the clods of these hills and vales ; and from many altars will ascend the in- cense of prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai-quin-su- wa-tish took me to his company of horses and gave me one in token of his friendship, and probably not without the motive to enlist me in his favor. The horse was finely made, and of the beautiful color of intermixed cream and white. On the 28th, we pursued our journey and passed over a mountain so high, that banks of snow were but a short distance from our trail. When we had ascended two-thirds of the way, a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our Jndians, came rushing down the side of the mountain through the midst of qur company. One ran over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and threw the child far down the descent, but providentially it was not materially injured. Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it deeply in the shoulder. The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when they have laid their course, and being affrighted are run- ning at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction, whatever obstacles may be in their way. I noticed nothing particularly new in geology, excepting upon the highest parts of these mountains, granite of very light color. Our descent was through woods more dense than those on the other side, and the most dense of any for- ests since we left the waters of the Missouri. Many parts of the descent were of almost impassable steepness ; and part of the way down a rough deep ravine, a stream of pierre’s hole. 93 water commences, and increasing from springs and rivulets to considerable magnitude, winds its way through the valley of Pierre’s Hole ; in the upper part of which we made our encampment among willows, in the prairie vale. On the 29th, removed our encampment, and traveled five hours along this valley to the place, where two years before, two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre’s Hole is an extensive level country, of rich soil, well watered with branches of Lewis’ river, and is less frosty than any part we have passed this side the rocky chain of mountains. The valley is well covered with grass, but like most other places is deficient in woodland, having only a scanty supply of cotton-wood and willows scattered along the streams. It extends around to the north-west, as far as the eye can reach. We expected to have found buffalo here, but saw none. As parties of Blackfeet warriors often range this way, it was probable they had lately been here and fright- ened them away. Between this and our last encampment, I was shown the place where the men of the fur companies, at the time of their rendezvous two years before, had a bat- tle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the Blackfeet party there were about sixty men, and more than the same number of women and children ; of the white men in the valley, there were some few hundred who could be called into action. From the information given me, it appeared that these In- dians were on their way through this valley, and unexpect- edly met about forty hunters and trappers going out from 1 rendezvous to the south-west on their fall and winter hunt. The Indians manifested an unwillingness to fight, and pre- sented tokens of peace ; but they were not reciprocated. Those who came forward to stipulate terms of peace were fired upon and killed. When the Indians saw their danger^ 9* 94 THE BATTLE OF PIERRE’S HOLE. they fled to the cotton-wood trees and willows which were scattered along the stream of water, and, taking advantage of some fallen trees, constructed as good defenses as time and circumstances would permit. They were poorly pro- vided with guns, and were still more destitute of ammuni- tion. The trappers keeping out of reach of their arrows, and being well armed with the best rifles, made the contest unequal ; and still more unequal, when, by an express sent to rendezvous, they were reinforced by veterans in moun- tain life. The hunters, keeping at a safe distance, in the course of a few hours killed several of the Indians, and al- most all their horses, which, in their situation, could not be protected, while they themselves suffered but small loss. Those killed, on both sides, have been differently stated, but, considering the numbers engaged, and the length of time the skirmishing continued, it could not have been a bloody bat- tle ; and not much to the honor of civilized Americans. The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they would have butchered them and seized upon the plunder. If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, civilized white men should not. What a noble opportunity was here af- forded for our American citizens to have set an example of humanity. When night approached, the hunters retired to their en- . campment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians made their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre’s Hole began and ended.* * Since my return, I have seen an account of this battle, written by a graphic hand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing the Indians as having entrenched themselves in a swamp, so densely wooded as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trap- THE TEN COMMANDMENTS. 95 I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as many as could assemble in one of their lodges, and explain- ed to them the ten commandments — and after showing them their sin in their transgression of God’s holy law, pointed them to the Savior, and endeavored to make them under- stand the way of salvation. My method of instructing them was to give the first chief the first commandment, by repeating it, until he could repeat it ; and the second com- mandment to another chief in the same way, and so on through the ten, with directions for them to retain what was given to each, and to teach their people ; and the same manner was pursued with other parts of divine truth ; in- forming them, that at our next assembling, I shall examine them to see if they rightly understood, and retained what I committed to each. And on examination, in no case did I find more than one material mistake. I also found that they took much pains to communicate instruction to each other. pers at bay, until they were reinforced from rendezvous. When the Blackfeet saw the whole valley alive with horsemen rushing to the field of action, they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the leaders of the several hunting parties came into the field, they urged their men to enter the swamp, but they hung back in awe of the dis- mal horrors of the place, regarding it impenetrable and full of danger. But the leaders would not be turned from their purpose — made their wills — appointed their executors — grasped their rifles, and urged their way through the woods. A brisk fire was opened, and the Blackfeet were completely overmatched, but would not leave their fort, nor offer to surrender. The numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did not storm the breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their powder and balls, but only kept up the bloody battle by occasional firing during the day. The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat ; and the brave mountaineers assembled their forces in the morning, and entered the fort without opposition . With those who have seen the field of battle, the glowing descrip- tion, drawn out in long detail, loses its interest ; for although I saw it, yet I did not see dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any where near. 96 VOLCANIC CHASM. In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party, who went north-east into the mountains to their hunting ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which they will contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and his family, with a few of his people, went with Captain Bridger, that they might continue within the range of buffalo through the coming winter. The Nez Perces, and the Flatheads, with whom I go, take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was well chosen for safety against any war parties of Blackfeet Indians, near a small stream of water running through a volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and- in most places perpendicular. We were on the west side of the chasm, with a narrow strip of wood on every other side. Here was a passage made for the water by fire. The courses, which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the cre- ating and directing hand of God, as the design manifested in the organic part of creation ; and I would as unwillingly account for the positions of mountains, and valleys, and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, without inclu- ding the power and design of God, as for the formation of plants and animals. It is true, there is more minute and curious organization in the one than in the other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are manifest. This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re- freshing, and it seemed as though the Sabbath was designed especially for persons in such circumstances. It was, to my mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence are done. I read with new satisfaction, the Epistle to the Hebrews, and committed again myself and family, the CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 97 church and world of mankind, to God. It was "pleasant to reflect on the promises, that the kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the Lord and of his Christ, and he shall reign forever ; and that the time will come, when all shall know the Lord, and God shall be merciful to their unrighteousness, and their sins and iniquities he will re- member no more. Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and pre- paring to leave this encampment, I went and examined the volcanic chasm. It is many miles in length, and narrow, considering its depth ; formed of basaltic columns in many places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found many large and fine specimens of pure obsidian, or volcanic glass — much lava and vitrified stones. I took some small speci- mens. In the vicinity around, there was clinkstone in great abundance, which, when struck by the horses hoofs, gave a metallic sound. The soil is black, and appears to be formed of decomposed lava, and is covered with a nutritious grass. The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him. Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge and kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. Yes- terday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which a child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hover- ed at once around with their horses so as to enclose him, and the child was extricated without injury. When I saw the condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could be saved alive. This was the second case of the kind which had occurred since I had been traveling with these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses that every man, woman, and child, are mounted on horseback, and all their 98 CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. possessions are packed upon horses. Small children, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and gene- rally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep them from falling, when they sleep, which they often do when they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horses shoulders ; and when they awake, lay hold of their whip, which is fastened to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their horses ; and it is astonishing to see how these little creatures will guide and run them. Children which are still younger, are put into an encase- ment made with a board at the back and a wicker work around the other parts, covered with cloth inside and out, or, more generally, with dressed skins ; and are carried upon the mothers 5 back, or suspended from a high knob upon the fore part of their saddles. As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co- lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the Nez Perees, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge a number of his people who had separated, husbands from their wives, and wives from their husbands, and ex- plain to them what God had said upon the subject. I rea- dily consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal as it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result of his own reflections after what I had before said in explain- ing the ten commandments. When they were assembled, I read to them about the relative duties of husbands and wives, and of parents and children. I commented upon the subject, and told them that when they marry it must be for life. All but two agreed to go back to their former hus- bands and wives. It was interesting to see that they are rea- dy to practice instructions as soon as received. The chief PEARS OP BLACKFEET. 99 said they desired me to instruct them in all that God has said ; for they wish to do right. After I left them, they stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, which was near my tent, and I heard them conversing on the subject until I went to sleep, which was at a late hour. They all shook hands with me when I left them, and said my words were “tois” (good.) Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to- day only about four hours. Crossed Henry’s Fork, another branch of Lewis’ river, which is itself a river of some mag- nitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and fordable only when the water is low. After proceeding a few miles down on the north side, we encamped at an early hour in a spot upon the bank of the river, surrounded by cotton- wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. Our fears of meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were increased by seeing three Indians pass who were strangers to us. Some of the chiefs went through our encampment and ha- rangued the people, the object of which was to be prepared for defending themselves against an attack, should any en- emies appear. We were preserved in safety through the night, and arose on the morning of the second and went on our way, and performed a journey of twenty-two miles over a barren section of country. The surface is composed of quartose sand, intermixed with disintegrated amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. In some places were large excava- tions, plainly indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had spread out their melted contents in a level plain of hard lava, or amygdaloid, without forming cones. In other pla- ces there were conical rocks of different magnitudes at the base, and of different height — -none perhaps over the diame- ter of three rods at the base and sixty feet high. They 100 INVITATION TO FORT HALL. were universally divided in the centre, as though an explo- sion had taken place after they were hardened. At some distance from us were several hills, rising in high cones some hundred feet — two of them I should judge to be not far from three thousand feet high. I did not have an oppor- tunity of examining their geological formation. We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Salmon river, which was the first water we had found through the day, and upon which was good grass for our horses. Here Kentuc, my Indian, caught some excellent trout, which was a very grateful change of food. Our progress during the next day was through a barren tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except wormwood, which grows very large. A sluggish stream bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65°. We traveled on the fourth, five hours, and encamped by a stream of water, in Cote’s defile, which comes out of the mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. Cote’s defile passes through a range of high mountains, some of the tops of which are covered with snow. Most of the day was uncomfortably cold with snow-squalls. Thermometer, at noon, 54°. Friday, 4th. To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall, containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the winter with him ; but the object for which I have passed the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my tour, and if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and would come to us to-morrow. We had become almost des- titute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo. CHARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF. 101 The morning of the 5th was very cold. We continued in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perces an op- portunity to join us, and about the middle of the day they came ; the principal chief marching in front with his aid, carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing appearance. The women and children followed in the rear. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, and other chiefs, arranged their people in the same order and went out to meet them ; and when we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted, and a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead. They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single file, and meeting, shook hands with me and each other in token of friendship, and to express their joy to see one come among them to teach them respecting God and salvation. The principal chief of the other band who is called Charlie, and is the first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good look- ing man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and ex- pressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy ex- pressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took me firmly by the hand and welcomed me. In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see a prominence of interesting appearance. It is detached from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side of Cote’s defile, is about a half mile in circumference at the base, and rises up abruptly, having most of its west side perpendicular. It is more than two hundred feet high, has a level horizontal summit of eighty rods long, north and south, and twenty rods wide. It furnishes plain evidence of having been fused and thrown up by subterranean fires. In the evening I met the chiefs, and as many as could 10 102 A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS. assemble in the lodge, and explained to those whom I had not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the first chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some time — mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can teach him ; and said, “ I have been like a little child, uneasy, feeling about in the dark after something, not knowing what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be substantial, and which will help me to teach my people to do right.” I told them to-morrow would be the Sabbath ; and explained to them the nature of the institution, and their obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp, but attend to the worship of God. Providentially there came to us this afternoon a good interpreter from Fort Hall, so that to-morrow I can preach to the people. Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice explained to them the instructions given last evening ; told them it was the Sabbath, and they must prepare for public worship. About eight in the morning, some of the chiefs came to me and asked where they should assemble. I en- quired if they could not be accommodated under the shade of the willows, which skirted the stream of water on which we were encamped. They thought on account of their- numbers they could not. I then enquired if they could not take the poles of some of their lodges and construct a shade ; and without any other directions they went and made pre* paration, and before eleven o’clock came and said they were ready for worship. I found them all assembled, men, women, and children, between four and five hundred, in what I would call a sanctuary of God, constructed with AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE- 10# their lodges, nearly one hundred feet long and about twenty feet wide ; and all were arranged in rows, through the length of the building upon their knees, with a narrow space in the middle, lengthwise, resembling an aisle. The whole area within was carpeted with their dressed skins, and they were all in their best attire. The chiefs were arranged in a semicircle at the end which I was to occupy. I could not have believed they had the means, or could have known how to erect so convenient and so decent a place for wor- ship, and especially as it was the first time they had had public worship. The whole sight affected me, and filled me with admiration ; and I felt as though it was the house of God and the gate of heaven. They all continued in a kneeling position during singing and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, they all said what was equivalent in their language, to Amen. And when I commenced sermon, they seated themselves back upon their heels. I stated to them the original condition of man when first created, his fall, and the ruined and sinful condition of all mankind ; the law of God, and that all are transgressors of this law and as such are exposed to the wrath of God, both in this life and the life to come ; and then told them of the mercy of God in giving his Son to die for us, and of the love of the Savior, and that though he de- sires our salvation, he will not save us unless we hate sin and put our trust in him, and love and obey him with all our heart. I also endeavored to show them the necessity of renovation of heart by the power and grace of the Holy Spirit. Told them they must pray to God for the forgive- ness of their sins and for salvation. They gave the utmost attention, and entire stillness prevailed, excepting, when some truth arrested their minds forcibly, a little humming 104 AN INDIAN BURIAL. sound passed through the whole assembly, occupying two or three seconds. I never spoke to a more interesting assembly, and would not have changed my audience for any other upon earth ; and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these heathen who are so anxious to obtain a knowledge of God. I hope, that in the last day it will be found that good was done in the name of Jesus. If Christians could have witnessed this day’s service, it would have enlisted their sympathies, and they would be willing to do something adequate to the con- version of these perishing souls. An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged to the band which joined us yesterday, died this morning. He was speechless when he was brought here. We attended his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a very decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting that they buried with him all his clothes and blankets. I ad- dressed the people at the grave upon the subject of the re- surrection and of the judgment. This was entirely new to them and very interesting. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish came to my tent towards evening, and said, what I had said was “tois” it was spiritual, and now he knew more about God. So deep was the interest awakened by the few ideas their benighted minds had obtained of this most precious truth of our religion, that they came to my tent after I had retired to rest, and awakened me, to go and converse still farther w T ith them on the subject. Monday, 7th. We traveled five hours to-day. The In- dians make slow progress in traveling with their village ; for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set up and take down their lodges. This is, however, of INDIAN HOSPITALITY. 105 little consequence to them ; for wherever they are, it is their home. They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anti- cipating all, and more than all, my wants, which they have the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im- portant business, and are ready to follow my counsels. They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green bushes and set them up for shade. A few days since, we encamped where there were some fragrant plants of a species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with a few other women, collected a quantity, and strewed them in my tent. We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks and over a more rich, black soil, where we found a good supply of grass for our horses at night. Our route, on the 8th, was continued as usual. My health hitherto, since I commenced my journey, has been uninter- ruptedly good, until to-day I suffered a slight attack of in- flammation of the lungs, in consequence of a cold. The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet they are seldom anxious about the future. When they have a plenty, they are not sparing ; and when they are in want, they do not complain. The Indians at this time were al- most destitute of provisions, and we were approaching the Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies be- tween twelve and fifteen days, and where there are no buf- falo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful con- cern for them, that God would send a supply before we should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident that we should experience the truth of His word, that he provides for all their meat in due season ; and as the cattle 10 * 106 SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS TIMELY SUPPLY. upon the thousand hills are his, so he would not withhold his providential care from us. We continued to pass basaltic mountains ; and also passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dress- ed skins. Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a paste, and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes dry rub it off, which process leaves the garment soft, clean, and white. We encamped to-day where they had before made an encampment, a little below a steep bank. Near night I was alarmed by shouts of Indians and a general rush up the bank. I hastened up and saw great numbers running towards our camp. It proved to be a foot race, such as they frequently exercise themselves in, for the purpose of improving their agility. September 9th, I was more unwell. To-day we unex- pectedly saw before us a large band of buffalo, and halted to make preparation for the chase. The young men and all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had, and took a supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was such, that it seemed our lives almost depended upon their success. And while they were preparing, I could not but offer prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them ‘ judgment, skill, and success. They advanced towards the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should frighten them before they could make a near approach ; and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase, when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush was made, each* Indian selecting for himself a cow with which he happened; CHASE. 107 to come into the nearest contact. All were in swift motion, scouring the valley — a cloud of dust began to arise— the firing of guns and the shooting of arrows followed in close succession — soon here and there buffalo were seen pros- trated ; and the women, who followed close in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable acquisition ; and the men were away again in pursuit of the fleeing herd. Those in the chase, when they came abreast of the buffalo and at the distance of two rods, shoot and wheel, expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses ap- peared to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded animal flies again, the chase is renewed, and such is the alternate wheeling and chasing until the buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained between fifty and sixty. I was interested to see how expertly the Indians used the bow and arrow, and how well the women followed up the chase, and performed their part in dressing the buffalo which were slain. After traveling six hours to-day, we encamped on the eastern branch of Salmon river, where it is of con- siderable magnitude. The pain in my breast changed and seated in my head, on the right side. On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged to resort to medicine. I could say with the Psalmist, “ I laid me down and slept ; for thou art with me.” We did not remove to-day, for it was necessary for the Indians to dry their meat by a process which is called “ jerking.” The meat is cut into pieces, an inch thick, and spread out on a fixture made with stakes, upon which are laid poles, and upon these cross sticks ; and then a moderate fire is placed beneath, which partly smokes, cooks, and dries it, until it is so well, freed from moisture, that it can be packed, and 108 SALMON RIVER. will keep without injury almost any length of time. Here we made preparation for the remainder of my journey to Walla Walla, which will probably occupy about twenty days. September 11th. To-day most of the Nez Perces and Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffalo, that they might secure a larger store of provisions before winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to go with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, I ex- perienced another token of their regard in a very valuable present of twenty fine buffalo tongues, which are a great delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat. I reciprocated their kindness by making such presents as were in my power to bestow — among which was a britania cup, to the first chief, which he highly valued. And I gave him some writing paper, requesting him to present it to the mis- sionaries whom I had encouraged him to expect next year. After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor- tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly. We continued our journey, on the 12th, down the eastern branch of Salmon river. The valley through which this river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to three or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward the Sal- mon river mountains, the mountains upon each side in- creased in height and converged towards each other. They presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with Indians to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors, in different directions, to reconnoiter, and especially when they are apprehensive that enemies may be near. We had evi- dence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of some other nation, or tribe, were about us ; and therefore more than DANGER APPREHENDED. 109 usual numbers of our men were flanking, and ahead. On the banks of the river down which we were traveling, there was a dense growth of willows extending, however, only a few rods into the bottom-lands. About two in the afternoon, we were all very much alarmed to see our men, who were out as hunters and guards upon the hills, running their horses full speed, in an oblique direction towards us. Two of them were our principal chiefs. We knew that they had discov- ered something more than ordinary, but what we could not conjecture. Being in a country where war parties of Black- feet Indians often range, our thoughts were turned upon dan- ger ; and soon our fears were increased by seeing on the sides of the mountains at our left, clouds of dust arise, and in the obscure distance, men descending as swiftly as their horses could run. They were so far off that we could not deter- mine who they were. At the same time our two chiefs on the hills halted and made signals which we did not under- stand. In addition to this, some of the Indians said they saw Blackfeet Indians in the willows, not far off, between us and the chiefs ; and our belief that it was so, was confirm- ed, when two deer rushed from the willows towards us, and when they saw us, instead of returning, only declined a lit- tle to the left, and passed before us. These enquiries arose in my mind— Why have the chiefs halted ? Do they see enemies between us and themselves ? Are their signals to give us warning of danger ? What so frightened the deer that they rushed out towards us ? We had all halted, and made what preparation we could for battle. As we did not know in what part of the willows to make the attack, we were waiting for our enemies to commence the fire, and were expecting every instant to have their balls poured in upon us. It was a moment of awful suspense. We sent 110 BUFFALO. out a few men, upon an eminence to our right, to see what they could discover, and they soon returned without having seen any enemies. The two chiefs upon the hills, who were now joined by those who rushed down the mountains, and who proved to be some of our own men, applied their whips to their horses, and in full speed came to us ; and Charlie, the first chief, rode up to me, and smiling, reached out his hand and said, “ cocoil cocoil” (buffalo, buffalo.) Thus ended the battle ; and the remainder of the day was spent in killing and dressing buffalo, which was far more pleasant than fighting Blackfeet Indians. This made a desirable addition to their stock of provisions. We encamped in this place, which supplied a plenty of good grass for our horses, and where there was no want of fuel. The inflammation in my head still continued with throb- bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundred a minute. Bled myself again and took medicine. Thermometer, at noon, 73°. Sabbath, 13th. My health no better, and my strength was failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this trial to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condition, my motives in engaging in this mission, and whether I could give up all for Christ to promote his kingdom in the world. I thought I could surrender all into the hands of God, my soul to my Redeemer, and my body to be buried by these Indians in this desert land. I felt as though it was desira- ble to finish my tour, and return and make my report, and urge the sending of missionaries into this field, which is white for the harvest ; and again to meet my family and friends ; but still I wished not to have any will of my own, but say, the will of the Lord be done. These Indians per- severe in their kindness, and are very respectful, and ready GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Ill to obey as fast as I can impart instruction ; and they say that what I tell them is different from any thing they have ever heard, being spiritual, and that they wish to have Sueapo (American) teachers. If the American churches will not send them teachers, criminality must rest upon them for disobedience to Christ’s authority. Are there any heathen more anxious than these to be taught the way of salvation, where there are so few obstacles to the introduc- tion of the gospel ? Here are no idols, no sacrifices, no power of caste to combat ; nor, as yet, the destructive influ- ence which exists upon the frontiers. September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, and pro- ceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes from the south, and has its source in two small lakes in the moun- tains north of Henry’s fork. For some distance on our way, on the 15th, the moun- tains came down near the river, rendering the valley through which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountnins terminate in high bluffs, which in many places present uncommonly interesting strata. The lowest stratum was white marly earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly horizontal, and somewhat indurated ; upon this a green stratum of about four feet in thickness ; next a stratum of brown of about ten feet ; upon this a stratum of red about the same depth of the green ; over this a mould of decomposed lava. This marly earth slightly effervesces with acid. The rocks in most places are basalt — in some places very fine granular quartz. Noticing some unusual appearances near the foot of the mountains, on the left, I rode to the place, and found a cluster of volcanic eruptions, which, though ancient, ap- p eared more recent than any I had previously seen, A little 112 PETRIFIED STUMP. way down the descent into one of the craters, I found a pe- trified stump, standing in its natural position ; its roots and the grain of the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood undoubtedly, upon what was the natural surface of the earth, and the mound above and around was thrown up by volcanic fires. While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is scattering it over the country around, to renew the soil which was destroyed by the great conflagration, which once fused this whole region of the setting sun. This petrified stump, found in this position, proves that this country, which is now so destitute of wood, was once supplied if not covered with forests. From various sources of evidence, it is plain that these prairie regions were formerly better supplied with wood than at present, and also that the present supply is constantly diminishing. We passed, to-day, a place where two years ago thirty Nez Perce young men, who were killed by the Blackfeet, were buried. They were all active young men, going out upon some expedition, the nature of which I could not learn. They had gone but a little distance from the village, which encamped here, when passing through a very narrow defile on a small stream of water, walled up on both sides with perpendicular rocks, the Blackfeet Indians, who had way- laid them, attacked them from before and behind, and killed all but one, who mounted a horse belonging to the Black- feet, and rushed through the opposing enemy. After the Blackfeet Indians had retired from the place of slaughter, the Nez Perces brought away the dead bodies and buried them in this place. According to their mode, they buried with them their clothes, blankets, and buffalo robes, in graves about three feet deep, putting five or six bodies in a grave. SCENE OF MOURNING. 113 Some time after this, the Blackfeet Indians came and dug them up, and made plunder of their blankets and whatever they thought worth taking. The Nez Perces, some time af- terward, came this way and collected their bones and buried them again. The graves in which they were first buried were open when we passed, and fragments of garments were lying about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in silence over their murdered sons and brothers. The whole scene was affecting, and I could not but long for the time to come when they shall settle down in a Christian commu- nity, and cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and the gospel shall be sent to the Blackfeet Indians, that they may imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and good will toward men. After some time spent in reflections and solemn mourning, we left the place and proceeded down the river, and en- camped near Bonneville’s Fort, which he has abandoned, and which is situated in a small pleasant valley. This place would be favorable for fur business, tvas it not on the ground where conflicting tribes often meet. 114 SALMON RIVER. CHAPTER VII. Salmon river — mineral salt — chimneys — forest trees, new species of pine — geology — sulphur lake — a rare animal — new species of squir- rels and pheasants — came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia — fer- ryman — Basaltic formation — fine climate — arrive at Walla Walla. Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream, and takes its name from the immense number of salmon found in its waters. The shores are covered with pebbles of primitive formation. I took an observation of latitude, and found it 44° 41'. September 16th. Passing a mile down the river, we came to a location of mineral salt. It crops out of the mountain near its base, on the south side of the river. On account of the impaired state of my health, and having no fa- cilities for exploring the mine, I was under the necessity of passing it with an examination of such specimens only as the Indians procured. The salt is pure and white, contain- ing less of the water of crystalization than our common salt. I took a quantity to replenish my nearly exhausted store. That the mine may be extensive is probable from- the circumstance, that the geological formations around are like those about the mines in Poland, and besides it is in the vicinity of the great Salt Lake, whose waters are so strongly saturated that crystals form upon the shores. After passing down the river two hours in a north-west direction, we entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon river. The river literally passed into the mountains ; for THE CHIMNEYS. 115 the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three hun- dred feet high, through these mountains several thousand feet high, was wide enough only for the river to find a pas- sage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no more. During the two hours ride, before we entered the mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was some level bottom-land along the river, in every direction moun- tains were rising above mountains, and peaks above peaks, up to the regions of perpetual snow. These mountains are not so much in chains, as of conical forms, with bases in most instances small in proportion to their height. So much sublimity and grandeur, combined with so much va- riety, is rarely presented to view. Horizontal strata, with interchanges of white, green, red, and brown, were similar; to those seen yesterday ; and in one place, for more than a mile, a vertical front was presented, facing the south-west, of one hundred and fifty, and two hundred feet high, restihg up-. on a base of conglomerated rock. The stones of which it is composed are round, of primitive origin, cemented' with marly clay, and of the various colors already mentioned. The opposite side of the river is studded with dark basalt. After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, nar- row, and winding course for several hours, until an open space spread out before us. Here I beheld what appeared at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses which the fire had desolated, leaving the decayed, broken, and tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer approach they proved to be masses of slaty rock, ten, twenty, and even forty feet in height. The firm and impenetrable tex- ture of their material preserves them from being crumbled to a level with the earth around them. From this place we turned more westerly, and passed a 116 THE ELASTIC PINE. high mountain, parts of which are very steep, and encamped in a valley by a stream of crystal water. On the 17th, we pursued our journey over high moun- tains, which, in some places were intersected by deep ra- vines, very difficult to be passed. Encamped in a grove of large Norway pines. September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow pro- gress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my jour- ney to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, I took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remainder to follow at their leisure. We passed over a mountain six thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day to arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with woods, excepting small portions, which are open and furnish grass for our horses. The woods are composed mainly of fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. The leaves of this new species resemble those of pitch pine, growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but are shorter and smaller ; the bark and the body of the tree resemble the tamarack ; the wood is firm and very elastic. On ac- count of this last and peculiar property, I have called it the elastic pine. It grows very tall and straight, and without branches except near the top. These pines would undoubt- edly make excellent masts and spars for shipping. On ex- periments which I made, I found it difficult to break sticks an inch in diameter. After passing part of the way down this mountain, we stopped for the night. We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day’s labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance than when we were with the village. We were much an- noyed by trees that had fallen across the trail. Encamped upon the south-east side of a high mountain, where there REFLECTIONS. 117 was a large opening, a spring of water, and a good supply of grass for our horses. Sabbath, 20th. We continued in the same encampment. I expressed my wish to the chief, that the day should be spent religiously, and that he should communicate to his men, as well as he was able, the scripture truths he had learned. This was faithfully done on his part, and he prayed with them with much apparent devotion. I was interested to see how readily they were disposed to obey to the extent of their knowledge, and I was affected with the thought that so few were willing to come and teach these benighted minds. After they had closed their worship, I sang a hymn and prayed, and conversed with them. The inflammation in my head continuing, I bled myself copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but increased my weakness, so that I could walk only a few rods without much fatigue. Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God’s mercy to me, I found my heart sinking in despondency, and was ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains. It seemed, that such was my loss of strength, and I was be- coming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue of traveling eight days longer over these mountains, which are on an average about six thousand feet high ; and as they range north and south, with only very narrow valleys between, and our course was only a little north of west, we were constantly ascending and descending ; and we could not discontinue our journey Tor the w^ant of provisions. The thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of my mission, and close my life without a sympathising friend with whom I could converse and pray ; and be buried in these solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom, which L 11 * 118 A CURTOSITY. knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night I sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my aching, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was a very good substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and every morning arose refreshed by sleep. Monday, 21st. At an early hour we resumed our jour- ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good fare they had yesterday, made a long day’s journey. I had noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day, which is about seven thousand feet high, two days before we arrived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether Charlie, my guide, would not depart in this instance from the common custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the highest parts of mountains, and to descend into the low-, est valleys. But we passed the highest point, excepting one peak,, which is nearly perpendicular, and rises like an immense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt; and around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion. At the base there are also excavations, around and below which there is a large quantity of lava. This is a granite moun- tain, most of which is in its natural state. The way by which I calculated the height of these mountains is, that some of them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as eight - thousand feet, in latitude 42°, is the region of perpetual snow, there can be no doubt, as these do not vary greatly from each other, that they average six thousand feet. I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun- tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one INDIAN SIMPLICITY. 119 was balanced upon the other. It would seem*- that a puff of wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief, seeing me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying glass, said, “ these white men know every thing. They know what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron, and how to make watches, and how to make the needle al- ways point to the north.” They had seen a compass be- fore, and when I showed them mine, they said, “ that would keep me from getting lost.” A waterfall was seen de- scending down a high point of this mountain, which, by its continual foaming, looked like a white belt girding its side. Left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour and continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the way the ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and in some places even more steep ; sometimes on the verge of dizzy precipices ; sometimes down shelves of rocks where my Indian horse would jump from one to another, and in other places would brace himself upon all fours and slide down. I had become so weak that I could not walk on foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently between the mountains there would be only space enough for a rush- ing stream of the purest water to find its way ; the bank on one side of which would terminate the descent of one moun- tain, and the other bank commence the ascent of another. The question often arose in my mind, can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless these mountains shall be brought low, and these valleys shall be exalted? But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of wood for the wide-spread prairies ; and they may contain mines of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests for fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads may be constructed running north and south, so that trans- 120 MOUNTAIN LAKES, portations may be made south to the Salmon river, and north to the Coos-coots-ke.* After a fatiguing day’s march, we encamped in a low stony place where there was but little grass, for the want of which some of our horses strayed away. Our men killed a deer, which was a very agreeable exchange for dried buffaloi The mountains, over which we made our way on the 23d, were of primitive formation, with the exception of some parts which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate predomina- ted. In one place there were immense quantities of granite, covering more than a hundred acres, in a broken state, as though prepared for making walls, mostly in cubic forms. In some places the change from granite, in its natural state, to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it would be difficult to say where the one ended and the other began ; like the change from day to night. While riding along upon a nar- row ridge of this mountain, I saw two small lakes a little down the sides ; one on the right hand, which appeared to be very black, and the other upon the left was very yellow with sulphur, issuing from a spring in the mountain side. These two lakes were directly opposite each other, and not far distant. I should have examined them more minutely, had my strength permitted me to go down to them, and again ascend to where I must have left my horse. There was also much in the scenery around to admire ; mountain rising above mountain, and precipice above precipice. We spent the night in a valley, where there was a small meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods around * The name of this river in the journal of Clarke and Lewis, and in all other writings I have seen, is written Coos-coos-kee. This signi- fies the water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water,. Coos, water coots, little ke, the. The little river. NEW SPECIES OF TREES. 121 were very dense, composed mostly of the new species of pine, which here were very tall and straight, not however very large in diameter. The neighborhood of beaver was indi- cated by the mud dam, and by the barked willows on the stream. The Indians brought in a wolverine which they killed. Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our encamp- ment, and made good progress through the day. About the middle of the day, we came where we could look forward without the sight being obstructed by mountains, and it was pleasant to have a prospect opening into the wide world. We continued to descend, until we came into a valley of considerable extent, through which flows a large branch of the Coos-coots-ke. Found to-day a new species of elder, which grows five or six inches in diameter, and from ten to twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue and plea- sant to the taste. Kentuc caught some fine trout. Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Perces, which they left last spring. They were in fine order. It is remarkable that their horses do not wander far from where they are left, although there are no fences to inclose them. Here some of the Indians changed their horses and took fresh ones, relieving those which were worn down with journeying. On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile val- ley, until one in the afternoon, when, contrary to my ex- pectations, we left this branch of the Coos-coots-ke, which was too much of a northerly direction, and ascended another high mountain, densely covered with woods. Among the largest trees is a new species of fir, single leafed, the bark thick and rough like the bark of hemlock, but the balsam is the same as the compo^ fir. I saw more birds this val- 122 A RARE ANIMAL. ley, than in all the country through which I had passed west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins in great numbers, the magpie, and with them a new species of bird about as large as the magpie, its color uniformly a dull red, some- what resembling chocolate. Thermometer stood at 54°. On the 26th, we proceeded but about four hours on our way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum- mit ; the distance to another suitable place for our horses over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color was a bright orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; its fur appeared to be fine ; its head round and large ; its eyes black, prominent, and very piercing. I was forward of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about eight feet up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared afraid to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain it, but without success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, but did not kill it, and it came down and escaped. I saw in these mountains, a new vari- ety of striped squirrel, only about half as large as those found in the United States ; and another kind, in every re- spect resembling the red squirrel, but in color. It is nearly black, excepting its under parts, which are rufous, or red- dish yellow. Also a new species of pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. It is much smaller than the common- species ; somewhat lighter colored and more spotted ; its habits are gregarious like the common quail. It was re- markably tame, as if unacquainted with enemies ; and when assailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to be amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Its flesh was very good, and furnished an additional supply to our waning stock of provisions. a chief’s anxiety. 123 Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. My health was no better — sweat profusely last night, and yet the inflammation was increasing — took from my arm a pint of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief. We had religious services both in the morning and after- noon of this day, as last Sabbath. Charlie prays every morning and evening with his men, and asks a blessing when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, my in- terpreter, came and sat by me, and said, “ we are now near our country, and when we come into it, I wish you to look over it and see if it is good for missionaries to live in. I know but little about God — my people know but little — I wish my people to know more about God.” He said he wished to talk with me much more, and was sorry I had not a better qualified interpreter. Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made a long day’s march and emerged from the mountains about two o’clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as we ex- pected, we were obliged to travel on until near night, when we came to another branch of the Coos-coots-ke, at which we found several lodges of Nez Perce Indians. A salute was fired, and then we were welcomed with a ceremonious, but hearty shaking of hands. They feasted us with excellent dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents, I was rejoiced to find myself safely through the Salmon river mountains, and convalescent. These mountains were far more difficult to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as we could not take advantage of any valley, but one in which we journeyed only two-thirds of a day. Excepting in the middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently ice was formed during the night. It was a favor that we had no snow, which often falls upon the tops of these moun- 124 MEETING WITH INDIANS. tains very early in the autumn ; nor had we any storms, or unpleasant weather in our passage. Frequently heavy gales of winds sweep through these mountains, and prostrate parts of the forests ; but we had none to endanger us. On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov- ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth. Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, there being but little besides what is found along the streams of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us with the same friendly expressions, as those did where we encamped last night. We left the branch of the Coos-coots-ke and ascended westerly to the upper prairies, which are as fertile as the lower, and do not suffer more with the drouth. After a long and fatiguing ride over these prairies, we descended into a deep gulf, almost enclosed with perpendicular walls of basalt ; in the bottom of which, we found a large spring of water, where we encamped. Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made good progress, considering the exhausted state of our horses. Most of the streams were dried up, and one, which is generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend- ing out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of the high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses, contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried grass to the green. In the afternoon, we went through a section of country well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yellow pine and white oak ; where much of the soil appeared to LEWIS RIVER . 125 be very good. Towards night we came to a stream of water running west, where we encamped. Thermometer 82° at noon. Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After travelling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Nez Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief. They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was, and the object of my coming into their country, as their countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter from the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat, except what they could find upon the prairies. We arrived, two o’clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on account of the summer’s drouth there is less water flowing down its channel than I anticipated. A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca- noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and reminded me of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat. This country differs much from what I had expected ; for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply for grazing, yet there is such want of summer rains, that some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian corn. The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very early in the spring, would probably be so far advanced before the seve- rity of the drouth, that they would do well. In general 12 126 GEOLOGY v there is a great want of wood for building, fencing and fuel ; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply may be brought down the Coos-coots-ke. This place combines many advantages for a missionary station. I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses, and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they saw this side the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I had seen no wild horses, and only a very feiv wolves. Encamped upon the west bank of Lewis river, or as it is more com- monly called, the Snake river. On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time, before all our horses could be found. We started about eight, and proceeded three hours down the river to a place where it takes a northerly bend, through a section of moun- tains which are difficult to be passed. Our direct course to Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the river and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source. The section of country through which we journeyed to-day was mountainous. One part of the river along which we traveled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The lowest part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high and very cellu- lar, terminating in a narrow horizontal plain. Above this is superimposed columnar basalt ; the columns of which are regular pentagons, varying from two to four feet in di- ameter, rising forty feet high, perpendicular excepting in one place, where they were a little inclined. Above this formation of columns there was a stratum of volcanic stones and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness, lying in a confused state. Then upon this another section of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to the height of three hundred feet, nearly perpendicular. CAMMAS ROOT. 127 The pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much the same appearance, as those composing the Giant’s cause- way in Ireland. From the best observations I could make, I was led to conclude that the different sections were raised, at different periods of time, by widely extended subterranean fires. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other places, which I have yet seen, is of very dark color, contain- ing augite, or black oxyd of iron ; and is what Clarke and Lewis, and those who have copied from them, have called black rocks. Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our en- campment. We had through the day, an uncommonly high wind from the west, a pleasant sun and serene atmos- phere. We have had no rain since the 12th of July, while on the east side of the mountains, and not more than five cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky Mountains is excellent, and no country can possess a climate more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat hilly country well covered’ with grass-, we encamped for the night, and for the Sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an upper branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found three lodges of Nez Perees who were out on a hunt for deer, and the women were gathering cammas roots. This root in some degree resembles in taste and nutritive properties the sweet potato, and constitutes a large item of food for the In- dians throughout a considerable section of country, this side Salmon river and Salmon river mountains. The common tokens of friendship were interchanged, and they presented us a share of such food as they themselves had. Sabbath, Oct. 4th. We had public worship, at which all the men, women and children of three lodges attended. What there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, 128 VALLEY OF THE WALLA WALLA. was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the ap- pearance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians manifest to know what they must do to please God, and to obtain salvation. Employed part of the day in reading Vincent’s Explana- tion of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium of divinity, and is too much neglected in families and Sab- bath Schools. Decamped early, on the 5th, and pursued our journey down the Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of thirty miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with the common trees and shrubs of such locations, interspersed with wild roses. The prairie hen, the avoset, the robin, and varieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this as a favorite retreat ; while the animals, which we have been seeking for game, desert this delightful place and find their dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot impressed me favorably as the situation for the missionaries who should succeed me, and in every thing but its populousness would furnish advantages beyond any I have as yet seen. Indi- ans of different tribes border on, and around, this valley, and the location is therefore less central for any one of them. They might, however, be brought by degrees to col- lect and settle down around a mission station, when once it should be established. October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour- ney with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, and of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs and passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving Walla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the Co- lumbia river the soil became more and more sandy. Before FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 129 we arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by seeing cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the bottom- land ; and the sight was not only novel, after having been so long from civilized life, but the more interesting because unexpected. As we came near the fort, the Indians fired their customary salute, and then rushed forward to the gate. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, met us, and gave me a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering a habitation of civilized men, whose language was not strange. I felt that I had cause of thankfulness, that God, in his great mercy, and by his watchful providence, had brought me in safety and with restored health to this place. Soon I was invited into another apartment to breakfast ; and it was truly pleasant again to sit in a chair , at a table spread with fur- niture, and such luxuries as bread and butter, sugar and milk, of which I had been deprived for about three months. 12 * 130 FORT WALLA WALLA. CHAPTER VIII. Description of Walla Walla — the kind treatment of the Indians by the Hudson Bay company — leave Walla Walla for fort Vancouver — lo- quacious orator — rapids — introduction to the Cayuse Indians — morn- ing prospect — long rapids — Volcanic mountains — trial o{ Indian generosity — arrival at the falls of the Columbia river — rousing ef- fects of oratory — La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable subsidence — Cascades — Chenooks are the Fiatheads and Nez Perces — dangerous rapids — Indian burying places — Pillar rock — interest- ing waterfall — sea fowl — arrive at fort Vancouver. Fort Walla Walla is situated on the south side of the Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co- lumbia and Lewis’ river, which last is commonly called, by the people belonging the Hudson Bay Company, Nez Perce river; and one mile above the Walla Walla river, in latitude 46° 2', longitude 119° 30'. Two miles below the fort there is a range of mountains running north and south, which, though not high, are yet of considerable mag- nitude ; and where the Columbia passes through, it is walled up on both sides with basalt, in many places three hundred feet perpendicular height. The soil, for considerable dis- tance around, with the exception of some strips of bottom- land, is sandy, and for the want of summer rains is not pro- ductive. This establishment is not only supplied with the necessaries of life, but also with many of its conveniences. They have cows, horses, hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate corn, potatoes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; and might enlarge these and other productions to a great extent. HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 131 They also keep on hand dry goods and hardware, not only for their own convenience, but also for Indian trade. Most of the year they have a good supply of fish, and an abun- dance of salmon of the first quality. I arrived here in six months and twenty-three days after leaving home — forty-five days from Rendezvous — and twen- ty from entering Salmon river mountains. Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place. Settled with my interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and made ar- rangements for leaving to-morrow, in a canoe propelled by Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe, for Fort Van- couver, which is two hundred miles down the Columbia. Thus I am putting myself, without fear, into the hands of Indians, where a few years ago an escort of fifty men was necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places which have been battle grounds between traders and Indians. The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company are worthy of commendation for their good treatment of the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship and confidence, and also for the efforts, which some few of them have made to instruct those about them in the first principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard to equity, humanity and morality. This company is of long standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and intend to perpetuate the business ; therefore they consult the prosper- ity of the Indians as intimately connected with their own. I have not heard as yet of a single instance of any Indians being wantonly killed by any of the men belonging to this company. Nor have I heard any boasting among them of the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians, that I have elsewhere heard. Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having 132 A VOYAGE COMMENCED. got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given them their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine o’clock in the morning, and having passed the usual salutations, we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which here is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself in a new situation — my horses dismissed — in a frail canoe upon the wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger Indians, two hundred miles by water before I could expect to find any white men ; to pass through several nations whose lan- guages are entirely different ; yet the change from horse- back, for months over mountains and plains, through defiles and ravines, was anticipated with satisfaction. My three Indians were well acquainted with the river and with the art of managing the canoe. One of them under- stood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was very lo- quacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of im- portance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the other two were to do as he should direct. On account of his important and loquacious habits, I called him my orator. One of the other two, who took the stern and steered the canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking man, excepting the expression of his countenance, which was indicative of intelligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow, was an able and well disposed young man. The channel through the volcanic mountain a little below the fort, is one of the wonders of natuf e ; how it was formed through those immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about three hundred feet, and for the distance of two or three miles, remains unexplained. But my attention was so much taken up with the boiling eddies and the varying currents, CAYUSE INDIANS. 133 that I did not take those observations which under different circumstances might have been made, and which the scenery and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed out of the mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a rocky bed, and the water was so broken, that 1 thought it unsafe to continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians to put me ashore. My talking Indian said, u tois ,” (good.) I told him, waiitu tois , kapseis , not good, but bad. But still he said, tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not de- cline putting me on shore, if there was any particular dan- ger. The man at the stern put off into the middle of the river, where the water was the smoothest, but where the current was equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; and whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of an eye. Any failure of right management would have been disas- trous ; but they kept the canoe in the right direction, and we shot down with such velocity, as, together with the breaking in of some water, to cause solicitude. But this served to make the smooth parts, when we arrived at them, more pleasant, and my mind more tranquil in regard to future dangers. At two o’clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp- ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. My ora- tor, when we had come within hearing, announced our ap- proach and informed them who I was, and the object of my tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with all due respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had not come with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. They arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs and principal men forward, then the more common men, next the women, 134 MORNING PROSPECT. according to their rank, the wives of chiefs, the old women, the young — and then the children according to age. All things being made ready, the salute was fired, and I landed and shook hands with all, even the youngest children, many of whom, when they presented the hand, would turn away their faces through fear. I made them some presents, and bought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranberries I had seen west of the Rocky Mountains, and they were a grateful acid. The Indians ex- pressed much satisfaction in seeing me, and in the object of my coming among them. I told them I could not explain to them what I wished, but they must meet me next spring at Walla Walla, where I should have an interpreter, and then I would tell them about God. After again shaking hands with them, we w^ent on our way. At five o’clock we landed upon the north shore, and en- camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who came about me with the tokens of friendship and kindness, which characterize their nation. Among their acts of kind- ness they brought me wood, which in this section of the country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and grass to make my bed upon. October 9th. Arose before day, and as soon as any light appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morn- ing was pleasant, the country around open and diversified with rolling prairies and distant mountain tops mellowed with the opening beams of the rising sun. It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as banished all feelings of solitude, although no sound broke upon the ear, but the regu- lar timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were urging forward the canoe with an accelerated velocity, greater than the current of the river would have carried us. RAPIDS. 135 About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted by the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued to increase, until the white breaking water was presented to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among which the whirling and foaming water was forcing its way. The only part of the river, which presented any appearance of safety, was along near the south shore. This had some- what the appearance of a wake. My Indians made no movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river. On my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they point- ed toward the wake and said, “ tois I pointed forward and toward the north shore, and said, kapseis, bad. They answered, “ at, kapseis and with the language of signs accompanying their words, told me they would keep the canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of manage- ment being well established, I made no objection to their going forward, and in a very short time we had passed the apparent danger, and were gliding along over the smooth surface on the south side of a large island, about six miles long. During the day, the country around was comparatively level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have been formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the volcanic substances, which so generally abound. This section of the country is well supplied with grass, which during the summer drouth is converted into hay. Who can calculate the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might be kept here summer and winter, with no other labor than the care of a few herdsmen and shepherds. Encamped upon the north side of the river among some sand hills, a little below 136 HEAD WIND. several lodges of the Walla Walla Indians, to whom I had the usual and formal introduction. I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different tribes scattered all along this river, living in harmony without any feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favor of their kind and peaceable dispositions. On the 10th, we arose before day, after a night’s comfort- able rest, and by the first breaking light had our baggage on board and were under way. Towards the middle of the day, we came to a more mountainous tract of country, and at a place where the mountains crossed the river, there were very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among islands near the north shore, we made a safe descent. About noon a head wind, which commenced in the fore part of the day, had become fresh, and the waves began to multiply their white caps, so that it was dangerous naviga- tion for our canoe, and we had to land and wait for a more favorable time. We encamped on the north side of the river under a very high and romantic basaltic mountain ; in some parts near us the rocky walls were more than tw^o hundred feet in perpendicular height — in one place hanging over. In some places, and at different altitudes of this im- mense wall, there were cavities of considerable magnitude, and in others, wide and deep fissures ; through one of which passes the road traveled by pedestrians and those on horse- back. This place is ten miles above the falls of the Co- lumbia, which the Indians call the turn turn; the same ex- pression they use for the beating of the heart. About a mile above us, were encamped some Walla Wal- las, many of whom came to my tent and wished to enter into trade with me, offering beaver at a low price. I told them to trade was not my business, any farther than to buy TRIAL OF INDIAN GENEROSITY. 137 salmon, &c. for food. My orator told me one of them was a Meohot , a chief, and would expect a present. As a trial of their disposition, I told him they had not brought me any wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing until they showed their kindness. But he said I must make the chief a present and buy of them wood. I replied, waiitu , if he is a chief let him show the generosity of a chief. Very soon they brought wood, and a fire was made, which I followed with some presents. Sabbath, 11th. Continued in the same encampment, and my heart’s desire was much excited for the salvation of these poor heathen. There were a sufficient number here to have made a decent congregation if I had possessed any medium of communication. Their language differs from the Nez Perces, so that I could have no communication with them except through my orator, who asked me if he should teach these Indians what he had learned about God and his worship. I gave him permission, though I feared he was influenced more by love of distinction than any higher motive ; but still, if any true light should be imparted to them, I would rejoice in it. I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island*, on the south side of which is a commodious bay, near which and upon the river Be Shutes, which here unites with the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians of about thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker raised his oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the whole village, calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with their people re- ceive the personage with him in due form. It was but a 13 138 LA DALLES. short time before their line was formed, the first chief lead- ing the way, and others according to their rank and age following, and the ceremony of shaking hands was per- formed ; and all retired to their lodges again. There is a great want of neatness among Indians in gen- eral, but more especially among those on this river, who live by fishing. Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded by land, upon the south side of the river, by the Falls, and down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end of the island where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular fall, is about two miles ; and here the river contracts, when the water is low, to a very narrow space, and with only a short distance of swift water, it makes its plunge twenty feet per- pendicular ; and then, after a short distance of rapids, dash- ing against the rocks, moves on in a narrow passage, filled with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks, called the La Dalles, four miles ; and then spreads out into a gentle broad channel. At the Falls and the La Dalles below, there are several carrying places, where boats and canoes, as well as baggage, have to be transported. The geological forma- tion along this distance is singular. With the exception of a few high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands around are but little above the river in the freshet rise ; and yet the channel of the river is through the hardest basalt and amyg v daloid. Has this channel worn this solid rock formation ? If so, at what time ? There is no appearance of the chan- nel having worn perceptibly deeper, since these rocks, from their melted state, spread out into their present condition, which must have taken place centuries and centuries ago. As I have no confidence in theories founded upon conjec- ture, nor in Indian traditions^ I leave the subject for others to BOSTON TRADING COMPANY. 139 tell us how these things took place. Former visiters, among whom I name Doct. Gardner, a learned English naturalist whom I saw at Oahu, Sand. Islands, expressed his entire inability satisfactorily to account for this peculiar phenom- enon. Nor does the Indian tradition, that the Great Wolf made this, together with all the scenery that delighted my eye as I passed down the river, relieve the mind of its irrepressible curiosity. This is one of the best loca- tions for salmon fishing, and great numbers of Indians collect in the season of taking them, which commen- ces the last of April, or the first of May, and continues several months. At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Capt. Wyeth, from Boston, with a small company of men going up the river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intelligent and sociable man, had the charge of the business of a company formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the Columbia, and for trade and trapping in the region of the mountains. The plan of the company was to send a ship annually around Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring out goods for trade, and to take home the salmon and furs which should be ob- tained during the year. It was expected the profits on the salmon would defray all common expenses, and that the profits on the furs would be clear, and yield a handsome income. But thus far the enterprise has been attended with many disasters, and the loss of many lives — several of the men were drowned, and others killed by Indians. Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians to return, and Tilkl, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, engaged to furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort Van- couver. Encamped with Capt. Wyeth, and obtained from him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to enab le 140 UNUSUAL PHENOMENON. me to do common business with the Indians residing along on the lower part of this river. Tuesday, 13th. I left at nine o’clock in the morning, in the canoe with three men furnished by TilkT, and made good progress down the river, which flows in a wide and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the La Dalles commences a wood country, which becomes more and more dense as we descend, and more broken with high hills and precipices. I observed a remarkable phenomenon — trees standing in their natural position in the river, in many pla- ces where the water is twenty feet deep, and rising to high or freshet water mark, which is fifteen feet above the low water. Above the freshet rise, the tops of the trees are de- cayed and gone. I deferred forming an opinion in regard to the cause, until I should collect more data. About the middle of the day a south wind began to blow, and contin- ued to increase until it became necessary to go on shore and encamp, which we did about four in the afternoon. On the 14th, we did not make much progress on account of wind and rain. Encamped in a cavern under a large projecting rock, the upper part of which was formed of ba- salt, the lower of pudding stone. Although this was at least six miles above the Cascades, yet the roar of the wa- ter could be distinctly heard. The same phenomenon of trees continued. I paid particular attention to the condition of the shores of the river and adjacent hills and mountains, to see if there were any escarpments presenting such con- dition, as would furnish evidence of their having descended by landslips ; but as there were no such appearances, and the condition of the trees was the same where there were $o hills or mountains near, I was led to conjecture, that I REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE. 141 should find the river at the Cascades dammed up with vol- canic productions ; and I was induced to believe it would be found so, from the fact, that the river, the whole distance from the La Dalles, is wide and deep, and moves with a sluggish current. On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the morning, I did not leave my encampment until noon, when we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at two o’clock in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still more nu- merous, in many places standing in deep water, and we had to pick our way with the canoe in some places, as through a forest. The water of the river is so clear, that I had an opportunity of examining their position down to the spread- ing roots, and found them in the same condition as when standing in the natural forest. As I approached the Cas- cades, instead of finding an embankment formed from vol- canic eruptions, the shores above the falls were low, and the velocity of the water began to accelerate tw^o-thirds of a mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it is plainly evident that here has been a subsidence of a tract of land, more than twenty miles in length, and about a mile in width. The trees standing in the water are found mostly towards and near the north shore, and yet, from the depth of the river and its sluggish movement, I should conclude the subsidence affected the whole bed. That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low water mark, proves that the subsidence is comparatively, of recent date ; and their undisturbed, natural position, proves that it took place in a tranquil manner, not by any tremendous convulsion of na- ture. The cause lies concealed, but the fact is plain. That parts of forests may in this way submerge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on the eastern coast o.f 13* 142 THE CASCADES. Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England, is about fifteen feet* below low water mark, extending eastward a considerable distance from the shore, of which stumps and roots are seen in their natural position. So manifest is the evidence of great changes having taken place by volcanic power, in these regions west of the Rocky Mountains, both by upheav- ing and subsidence, that we are led to enquire whether there are not now such agents in operation, and upon such mate- rials, that the valleys shall be literally exalted, and the mountains be made low, and waters spring up in the deserts. The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the Falls, do not differ materially from them, except in the wild romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form, to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great im- petuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice twenty or thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling descent most of the way five miles farther, where it meets the tide waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, in the river, there are many islands, but none of them are very large — some are only volcanic rocks. The country about the Cas- cades, and many miles below, is very mountainous, especial- ly on the south side. The volcanic peaks are as diversified in their shapes as they are numerous, being conical, dentic- ulated, and needle-pointed, rising from one to fifteen hundred feet. While imagination generally over-draws her pictures, nature here has furnished abundant scope for all her powers. A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore, there is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the only real Flatheads and Nez Perces, or pierced noses, I have found. They both flatten their heads and pierce their noses. The flattening of their heads is not so great a de- THE PORTAGE. 143 formity as is generally suppossed. From a little above the eyes to the apex or crown of the head, there is a depression, but not generally in adult persons very noticeable. The piercing of the nose is a greater deformity, and is done by inserting two small tapering white shells, about two inches long, through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of the nose. These shells are of the genus dentalium, they inhabit the Pacific shore, and are an article of traffic among the natives. I called at this village to obtain men to carry our canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished to engage in trade with me in several articles of small value, which I declined, informing them that my business was of a different nature. Whilst detained, the daughter of the chief, fancifully decked out in ornaments, and in all her pride and native haughtiness, walked to and fro to exhibit, to the best advantage, her fine, erect, and stately person. After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rapids*, or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powder and balls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part of my baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, and through which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians ran the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for their safety ; but they chose to do it. Two years before, the men of the Hudson Bay Company cordellcd several bat- teaux down this rapid — part of the men going in the boats, and part on the shore cordelling. The rope of one broke, and the batteau, in spite of the efforts of the men in it, was hurried out into the surging and whirling waves among the rocks — capsized, and all were lost. 144 INDIAN BURYING PLACES. I walked about four miles, until I had passed all the rap- ids of any special danger. About three-fourths of a mile below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian path, I came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which were several houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and far better than any I had seen in any Indian country. They were about sixty feet long, and thirty-five wide, the frame- work very well constructed and covered with split planks and cedar bark. A little back of these houses a small beautiful lake spread itself out, on the surface of which some dozens of wild ducks were enjoying the quietness of its solitude. As I continued down the Indian path, at no great distance from the village, I came to several deposito- ries of their dead. They were built of plank split from balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and five high, and well covered. At one end is what may be called a door, upon which are paintings of various devices, which do not appear to be designed for any other purpose than for ornament. Some had painting upon the sides as well as upon the doors. I had with me two Indians who paid no particular attention to them, more than we should in passing a burying ground. They pointed me to them, and made a short, solemn pause, without any actions which would indicate their paying homage to the pictures or any other object. The number of these depositories I did not ascertain, as many of them were so far decayed, as to be hardly distinguishable ; but there were eight or ten in good condition. Below this we passed several houses of less magnitude than those above ; and while the floors of those were on a level with the surface of the ground, these were sunk about four feet below, and the walls rose only about three feet above the ground. It would seem that these were BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL* 145 designed for winter habitations, but at this time their occu- pants were all absent. At the distance of four miles below the main cataract, the country, on the north side, spreads out into a level plain, which near the river is a prairie, a little distance back covered with dense forests ; while on the south side of the river it is very mountainous. Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, and we proceeded a few miles farther and encamped below Pil- lar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of water which descends the mountain from the south. Pillar rock is of basaltic formation, situated on the north side of the river, a few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of rich bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, on the river side perpendicular, and on the others nearly so. Upon all, except the river side, there are narrow offsets upon which grow some cedars, and also a few upon the highest point. The base in proportion to the height, is very small, giving the whole the appearance of an enor- mous pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders of volcanic operations. A cascade upon the south side of the river first strikes the view at an elevation of not less than a thousand feet ; and by several offsets the water descends in a white foaming sheet at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, presenting the appearance of a belt laid upon the side of the mountain. In two places the descent is perpendicular, and the lowest probably not less than two hundred feet, and before the stream reaches the bottom, it is dissipated into spray and disappears, until you see it again collecting itself at the foot of the mountain, and after winding its way a short dis- tance, it unites with the Columbia. The whole scene, com- bining the ruggedness and wildness of nature’s most roman- 146 CIVILIZATION. tic forms, with its most magnificent, filled my mind with admiration both of the work and its Author. On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again launched out into the broad river, in our frail canoe. For about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountainous, forming bold shores ; after which the mountains recede, and the river spreads out in some places from one to three miles wide, and an extensive region around presents the appearance of a rich soil well adapted to agriculture. There are some fine prairies, but the greatest part is thickly wooded. In this part of the river are many fertile islands, some of which are large ; the current moves on gently, and the whole scenery around is fascinating. As I de- scended towards the Pacific ocean, water fowl, such as geese, swans, and a very great variety of ducks, began to multiply ; also every now and then seals made their appear- ance, so that I became cheered with the increasing exhibi- tions of animated nature, greater than I had witnessed since leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, about the mid- dle of the day, on the north shore in a thick grove of large firs, I saw two white men, with a yoke of oxen drawing logs for sawing. I hailed them, and enquired of them the distance to Fort Vancouver. They replied, “ only seven miles around yonder point, dow r n that prairie. 55 Soon w r e* came to a very large saw T -mill, around which were large piles of lumber and several cottages. This looked like bu- siness upon a much greater scale than I had expected. I called a short time at this establishment, where I found several Scotch laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay Com- pany, with their Indian families. Although it was then about noon, they offered me a breakfast of peas and fish, PROVIDENCE. 147 taking it for granted that men who travel these western re- gions, eat only when they can get an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, we arrived at Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to set my feet on shore, where I ex- pected to find a hospitable people and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a chief factor and the superintendent of this fort and of the business of the Company west of the Rocky Mountains, received me with many expressions of kindness, and invited me to make his residence my home for the winter, and as long as it would suit my convenience. Never could such an invitation be more thankfully received. It v r as now seven months and two days since I left my home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had been constantly journeying, and the fifty-six last days, with Indians only. I felt that I had great reason for gratitude to God for his merciful providences toward me, in defending and so providing for me, that I had not actually suffered a single day for the want of food. For months I had no bread nor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt that a change and a variety would have been agreeable, but in no instance did I suffer , nor in any case was I brought to the necessity of eating dogs or horse flesh . In every exigency something wholesome and palatable was provided. 148 FORT VANCOUVER. CHAPTER IX. Description of Fort Vancouver— departure for Fort George and mouth of the Columbia — mouths of the Multnomah — Wappatoo island — May Dacre — Coffin Rock — Cowalitz river — Indian friendship— Pa- cific ocean — Gray’s bay — Astoria. Fort Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Co- lumbia river, about sixty rods from the shore, upon a prairie of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense woods. The country around, for a great distance, is generally level and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, excepting some prairies interspersed, and has a pleasing aspect. It is in north latitude 45° 37', and longitude 122 ° 50', west from Greenwich — one hundred miles from the Pacific ocean. The enclosure is strongly stoccaded, thirty-seven rods long, and eighteen rods wide, facing the south. There are about one hundred white persons belonging to this es- tablishment, and an Indian population of three hundred in a small compass contiguous. There are eight substantial buildings within the enclosure, and a great number of small ones without. October 17th. After a night’s rest in this fort, I left for* Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below, near the con- fluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should commence ; and also to avail myself of a passage in the May Dacre, from Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging WAPPATOO ISLAND. 149 to Captain Wyeth and Company, which was lying twenty- three miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multnomah. Mr. J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist from Philadelphia, accompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was large and pro- pelled by Sandwich Islanders, of whom there are many in this country, who have come here as sailors and laborers. Five miles below the fort, we passed the main branch of the Multnomah. It is a large river, coming from the south, and is divided by islands into four branches at its confluence with the Columbia. Here commences the Wappatoo island, so called from a nutritive root found in the small lakes in the interior, which is much sought for by Indians as an article of food. This island is about eighteen miles long, and five miles wide, formed by a part of the Multno- mah, branching off about six miles up the main river, run- ning in a westerly and north-westerly direction, and again uniting with the Columbia eighteen miles below the main branch. The branch which flows around and forms the island, is about fifteen rods wide, and of sufficient depth for small shipping most of the year. It was upon this island the Multnomah Indians formerly resided, but they have be^ come as a tribe, extinct. The land is very fertile, and most of it sufficiently high to be free from injury by the June freshet. Some parts of it are prairie, but the greatest part is well wooded with oak, ash, balsam fir, and the species ot poplar often called balm of Gilead, and by most travel- ers, cotton- wood. At the south-west of this island, there is a range of mountains which render a space of the country broken, but beyond these, it is said by hunters, that there is an extensive valley well adapted to agriculture. We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, at five o’clock in the afternoon, and were politely received on 14 150 MAY BACRE. board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored alongside a natural wharf of basalt. Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a small prairie back from the river, to be free from the noise of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing for their voyage ; and part of it I passed in the state room which w^as assigned me. There is much reason to lament the entire disregard manifested by many towards God’s holy Sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred. Those who will not submit to divine authority, must reap the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuse the mercy of God with impunity. Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the tide, about three miles, but for the want of wind anchored. In the afternoon, I went on shore for exercise, taking with me a kanaka , that is, a Sandwich islander, for assistance in any danger. I made a long excursion through woods and over prairies, and found the country pleasant and fertile. The grass on the prairies was green, and might furnish subsistence for herds of cattle. When will this immensely extended and fertile country be brought under cultivation, and be filled with an industrious population ? From time immemorial, the natives have not stretched forth a hand to till the ground, nor made an effort for the earth to yield a single article of produce, more than what springs up spon- taneously ; nor will they, until their minds are enlightened by divine truth. No philanthropist, who is not under the influence of Christian principles, will ever engage in the self-denying work of enlightening their minds, and arousing them from their indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these western shores, the work of destruction, introduced by those who would be called the friends of man, is going forward. DEER ISLAND COFFIN ROCK. 151 The Indians in this lower country, that is, below the Cas- cades, are only the remnants of once numerous and power- ful nations. The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal- ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759, and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to be about seventy-six and a half years. Its train of light was very perceptible and about twelve degrees in length. We had a favourable wind on the 20th, which, with the current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on our way. Among the many islands, with which the lower part of this river abounds, Deer island, thirty-three miles below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and while it is sufficiently w r ooded along the shores, the interior is chiefly a prairie covered 'with an exuberant growth of grass and vines of different kinds, excepting the grape, of which there is none west of the Rocky Mountains of natur- al growth. In the interior of this island there are several small lakes, the resort of swans, geese and ducks. This island was formerly the residence of many Indians, but they are gone, and nothing is left except the remains of a large village. Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one called Coffin Rock, twenty-three miles below Deer island, situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered with canoes, in which the dead are deposited, which circum- stance gives it its name. In the section of country from Wappatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, instead of committing their dead to the earth, deposit them in ca- noes, and these are placed in such situations as are most 152 CAPT. LAMBERT AND THE SKILLOOTS CHIEF. secure from beasts of prey ; upon such precipices as this island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made for the purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with mats, and split planks are placed over them. The head of the canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole made for water to escape. A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river coming from the north-east, flows into the Columbia, which is about thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for boats a very considerable distance. The country up this river is said to equal, in richness of soil, any part of the Oregon Territory, and to be so diversified with woods and prairies, that the farmer could at once reap the fruits of his labor. We anchored for the night, on account of numerous sand- bars and windings of the navigable channel. The evening was cloudy, and there was the appearance of a gathering storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills, that the situation was considered safe. The wind, on the 21st, was light, which rendered our pro- gress slow. This section of the country is mountainous, the ranges running from the south-east to the north-west, and covered with a very dense and heavy growth of wood, mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skilloots with a few of his people came on board. He was very talkative and sport- ive. When he was about to leave, he told Capt. L. that as- they had been good friends, and were now about to sepa- rate, he wished a present. Capt. L. told his steward to give him a shirt. The chief took it and put it on, and then said u how much better would a new pair of pantaloons look with this shirt.” The captain ordered him the article asked for. Now, said the chief, “ a vest would become me, and in- crease my influence with my people,” This was also, given. PILLAR ROCK. 153 Then he added, “ well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see each other again, can you see me go away without a clean blanket, which would make me a full dress.” The captain answered, “go about your business ; for there is no end to your asking so long as I continue to give.” Then the chief brought forward a little son, and said, “ he is a good boy ; will you not make him a present?” Capt. L. gave him a few small articles, and they went away rejoicing over the presents which they had received, instead of regretting the departure of the May Dacre. We passed to-day Pillar rock, which stands isolated more than a half mile from the north shore, composed of basalt, and is about forty feet high and fifteen in diameter. W e anchored a few miles below. On the morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable tide until nine o’clock, when we got under way .with a brisk wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread out into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation is difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide set us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean opened to our view. This boundary of the “ far west ” was to me an object of great interest ; and when I looked upon the dark rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of five thousand miles, without an intervening island until you ar- rive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thought was required, like contemplating infinity, which can measure only by succession its expansion and sublimity. Like the vanish- ing lines of perspective, so is contemplation lost in this ex- tent of ocean. As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray’s bay at the right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in which * Chief, or gentleman. 14 * 154 ASTORIA. on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia anchored, and from whose commander the bay took its name. Nearly op- posite we passed Tongue Point, which extends about two miles into the bay or river, from the south. It is consider- ably elevated, rocky, and covered with woods. Soon after this, Astoria was announced. My curiosity was excited. I looked, but could not discover what to all on board was so plainly seen — I blamed my powers of vision — and reluc- tantly asked the captain, where is Astoria ? “ Why,” he replied, “ right down there — that is Astoria.” I saw two log cabins, and said within myself, is that the far-famed “ New York of the west ?” FORT GEORGE. 155 CHAPTER X. Description of Fort George — mouth of the Columbia — dangerous bar — mountainous coast — varieties of timber— good location for a mis- sionary station — continued rains — dense forests — excursion in a canoe down the bay — view of the coast — disasters at the entrance of the Columbia— -ship William and Anne — ship Isabella — Tonquin — Japanese junk — reflections — water fowl — return to Fort Vancou- ver — the regard Indians show the dead — Indian kindness. When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort George (Astoria) is situated, Captain L. manned a boat to take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his respects to the governor, who had the politeness to meet us at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to his dwelling. After having interchanged the customary salu- tations and made a short stay, the captain re-embarked and made his way for Cape Disappointment ; and the wind and tide being favorable, he passed the dangerous bar without any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort George is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from Cape Disappointment, is without any fortifications, has only two small buildings made of hewed logs ; about two acres cleared, a part of which is cultivated with potatoes and garden vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose of trade with the few remaining Indians, who reside about these shores. Though this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the time must come, when at the mouth of this noble river there will be a place of business, and especially may this be expected, 156 MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA. as this bay affords the only good harbor for a long distance on this coast. I should think the north side of the bay, a little above the cape, adjoining what is called Baker’s bay, would be the most desirable location for a town, as that is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor. On that side of the Columbia bay, the country is more open and pleasant for a commercial town . On the south side, where Astoria was located, the mountains or high hills come down very near the shore, are rocky and precipitous, preventing a southern prospect, and in the short winter days of a north latitude of 46° 17' they almost exclude the sun. A difficulty, of a nature that is not easily overcome, exists in regard to the navigation of this river, which is the sand- bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the bar from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms deep, and in one plage only five, and the channel is only about half a mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, and there is no passing it except when the wind and tide are both very favorable. Without the bar there is no anchorage, and there have been instances, in the winter season, of ships laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for an opportunity to pass ; and a good pilot is always needed. Perhaps there have been more lives lost here, in proportion to the number of those who have entered this river, than in entering almost any other harbor in the world. But the calamities have been less frequent for some years past, than formerly ; and should a steam-boat be stationed at the cape, to tow vessels over, when business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the expense, the delays and dangers would be greatly diminished* VARIETIES OF TIMBER. 157 The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be- tween Chenook bay on the north and Youngs’ bay on the south ; and seven wide between Fort George and Chenook point. It is filled with many sand-bars, and one, which is called Sand island, a little within the capes, seen only when the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when not in the charge of skilful pilots. The section of country about the sea coast is rough and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and dense forest of any part of America of which I have any know- ledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus, but I saw none of the species commonly called pine, any where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which there are three species, constitute the greatest part of the forest trees. White cedar, spruce, hemloc, and yew, are interspersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is most common, prevail in small sections ; and in some low bottom-lands, the species of poplar, called the balm of Gilead, or bitter cotton wood, predominates. The balsam fir grows very large ; not unfrequently four and six feet in diameter, and two hundred feet high. I measured one which was eight feet in diameter, and about two hundred and fifty feet high. As I do not here intend to enter upon the dendrology of this country, I pass farther remarks upon this subject for the present. The quality of the land is good ; and some tracts of this mountainous iron bound coast might easily be brought un- der cultivation. One section about Youngs’ bay, extending to and about Point Adams. This would be a favorable lo- cation for a missionary station, where access could be had 158 LAND EXCURSION. to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who are said to be numerous. At this season of the year, there are but few Indians who reside about this trading post, finding it more for their comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season of the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along rivers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and where some game is found to add to their winter’s stock of provisions. During my continuance in this place it was my intention to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from thence down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said affords a very extensive and interesting prospect. But from day to day it rained, and the high winds created such a sea in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt the passage. On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very un- comfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased, ac- companied with snow, which, however, melted as fast as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the severity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and came in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat. The storm being somewhat abated, on the 26th, Mr. Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise. But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossible to make any progress, and we did not penetrate the woods more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and turned our course back, but our return, with diligent efforts, oc- cupied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and shrubbery is indicative of a rich soil, no part of the world can surpass the country about these shores^ A WATER EXCURSION. 159 The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for a water excursion ; but on account of sudden changes of weather, which are common at this season of the year, I did not think best to cross the wide bay, but took four Che- nook Indians, and a half breed named Thos. Pish Kiplin, who could speak English, and went in a large canoe down to Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from the fort. There was a gentle wind from the east, which favored hoisting a small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail until it increased to the rate of eight miles an hour ; and by this time the waves had become so high, and the white caps were so nu- merous, that to one not acquainted with nautical adventures, the danger in a canoe appeared great. We could only run before the wind, and when we were upon the top of one wave, it seemed the next plunge would be fatal. Fears were of no avail in this situation, and I therefore kept up such con- versation as was calculated to suppress any which might arise in the minds of the men. It was interesting to see how the Indians would take the waves with their paddles so as to favor the safety of the canoe. But our rapid progress soon brought us to the shore near Point Adams. Here a new and unexpected difficulty presented itself, and this was the almost utter impracticability of effecting a landing in the high surf; but my skilful mariners watched an opportu- nity to shoot the canoe forward as far as possible on a flow- ing wave, and as soon as it broke, they leaped into the wa- ter and seized the canoe and lightened it over the returning surge, and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. This management was an ocular demonstration of the skill of Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me and walked several miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach, so far around to the south, that I had a view of the coast 160 J.OSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE. north and south, as far as the eye could reach. High basaltic rocks, in most parts perpendicular, lined the shores. Who but that Being, who sets bounds to the sea, and has said to the proud waves, hitherto shalt thou come and no farther, reared these volcanic walls ? This vast expanse of ocean and these stupendous works of God naturally fill the mind with awe. In returning, I walked several miles beyond the place where we' landed, along the shore towards Youngs’ bay, and went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNiel, which was on its way up to the fort. In my excursion about Clatsop and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing the dead, deposited as I have already described. I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, and Sand island, as dangerous to those who were not well acquainted with the entrance into this river. In the year 1828, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little within the bar. All on board, twenty-six in number, were lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum- stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to tell the story. There were conjectures that after the ship had run aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, killed the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very strange, as they were not far from the shore, and the beach was sandy, that none escaped. The Indians carried off and se-- creted whatever of the goods they could find. The men of the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to deliver up what they had taken away. They sent Dr. McLaughlin at Fort Vancouver two small articles of no value. Dr. M. with an armed force went down to the Chenooks and de- manded a surrender of the goods. The chief, with his war- riors, put himself in the attitude of resistance, and fired ISABELLA AND T0NQUIN. 161 upon the men of the Hudson Bay Company. They re- turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let them know with what force they had to contend, if they persisted in their resistance. On this the Indians all fled into the woods. Dr. McLaughlin with his men landed and searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and draw- ing near — and cocked his gun, but before he had time to fire, one of the white men shot him down. None besides were hurt. This was done, as the Hudson Bay Company say, not so much for saving the value of the property, as to teach the Indians not to expect profit from such disasters, and to take away temptation to murder white men for the sake of plunder. On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast away upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand island, which is a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men all deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, made their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if they had remained on board and waited the tide, she might have been saved. The cargo was mostly saved. In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr. Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar. The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thom of the dangers, and his great want of prudence. About thirty miles south of this river, are the remains of a ship sunk not far from the shore'. It is not known by whom she was owned, nor from what part of the world she came, nor when cast away. The Indians frequently get bees- wax from her. It is highly probable that she was from some part of Asia. 15 162 JAPANESE. A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of Cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men only three were saved. In the following May, Captain McNeil, of the Lama, brought the three survivors to Fort Vancouver, where they were kindly treated by the gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and in the following October, were sent to England, to be forwarded to their own country and home.* This junk was loaded with rich China ware, cot- ton cloths, and rice. In the same year eleven Japanese, in distress, were drifted in a junk to Oahu, Sandwich islands. It is not very uncommon that junks and other craft have been found by whale ships in the great Pacific ocean, in a state of starvation, without the nautical instruments and skill of mariners necessary to enable them to find their way to any port of safety. Undoubtedly many are entirely lost, while others drift to unknown shores. May not such facts throw light upon the original peopling of America, which has engaged the attention of men for a long period. While one man demonstrates to his own sat- isfaction, that the first inhabitants of this continent must have crossed from the north-east part of Asia, because of the resemblance of the people to each other, and the ease with * From documents which have come to hand, since the publication of the first edition of this work, I have been led to admire the wisdom of Providence, as developed in the case of these three Japanese. On their way to their country, they were brought to Macao. It is a well known fact that the missionaries have been endeavoring to gain ac- cess to the island of Japan, and to obtain the means of acquiring the language of the inhabitants. These three Japanese, having been so long in foreign countries, were afraid to go to their own country, with- out permission from their government, and therefore Mr. Gutzlaff was enabled to obtain them as teachers, and to assist him in translating the Scriptures, and other tracts, for distribution among the otherwise inaccessible population of Japan, and thus to impart to them the riches of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. DIFFERENT THEORIES. 163 which the strait is passed in canoes ; another, with no less certainty, proves from the diversity of languages, from the impossibility of tracing their origin, and from other reasons, that an equatorial union of Africa and America must have existed in some age of the world since the universal deluge, and that some violent convulsion of nature has since dis- severed them. Others would confine the aborigines of this continent to the descendants of the Jews, and industriously trace in their customs, the ancient worship and rites of God’s peculiar people. Some see in them the confirmation of their favorite theory, that human institutions and states, like hu- man and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, maturi- ty, and decay ; and believe that, as it respects these tribes, these tendencies have already, for centuries, been in opera- tion to produce their extinction. But from whatever single or numerical causes they have had their origin, their own traditions, and the histories of more civilized nations seem unable to inform us. Physical causes alone, we think, are adequate to account for the many features of resemblance which they possess, though they might, at different and dis- tant periods of time have been drifted, or in any other man- ner found their way, from remote countries. About this time of the year, water fowl of various genera and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the season advances, they gradually proceed into the interior of the country, and the rivers and lakes abound with them. Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls-, wing their way over us, and their screams, particularly those of the swans, are at times almost deafening. The swan is not of the species common in the United States. It is the Bewick’s swan, but is char- acterized by the same unsullied plumage ; its attitudes and motions, while sailing over its liquid element, are equally 164 RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. graceful, and its voice is even louder and more sonorous. Of the geese there are four kinds ; the white, white fronted, the Canada, and Hutchins. Of the ducks, there are the black or surf duck, the canvass-back, the blue-bill, the long- tailed, the harlequin, the pin-tail, and the golden-eyed. The number of these water fowl is immense, and they may be seen on the wing, swimming upon the waters, or search- ing for food along the shores. They constitute a large item of Indian living and trade, and find a conspicuous place up- on the tables of the gentlemen engaged in the fur business. Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on-board a canoe, going on an express from the Lama, recently arrived from a northern voyage to and about Queen Charlotte’s island, to Fort Vancouver. The canoe was large, carrying about fifteen hundred weight including men and baggage, manned by three white men and three Indians. The day was more pleasant than for some time past, which was a favorable circumstance for passing through the bay, and around Tongue Point, where the current was so strong that it required the full exertion of the men to double it. Ten miles further we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles above which we encamped on the north side, where the mountains came down so close to the shore, that we hardly found room to pitch my tent above high tide water. The men made a large fire, which was cheering and comfortable, and the supper which they prepared was eaten with a keener appe- tite than many a one amidst all the appliances of wealth and luxury. On the 29th, we arose before day, and were willing to take an early departure from a place where tide and moun- tains disputed the territory. By diligently pursuing our way until eight in the evening, we made forty-five miles. REGARD FOR THE DEAD. 165 which was a great day’s work in going up the river against the current, which is strong when the tide is setting out. I noticed on my return a singular rocky point on the north shore, a short distance below the Cowalitz, rising nearly perpendicular about one hundred feet, separated from the adjacent high hills, and very much in the form of Coffin Rock. It was covered with canoes containing the dead. These depositories are held in great veneration by the In- dians. They are not chosen for convenience, but for secu- rity against ravenous beasts ; and are often examined by the friends of the deceased, to see if the remains of the dead repose' in undisturbed quiet. And such is their watchful care, that the anatomist could rarely make depredations without detection, or with impunity. And if they have such regard for the dead, are they without affection for their living relatives and friends ? Are they “ callous to all the passions but rage V* Are they “ steeled against sympathy and feeling ?■” And have they no happiness except what “ exists in the visionary dreaming of those, whomever con- templated their actual condition ¥* Have those, who charge upon the Indian character “ sullen gloom, want of curiosity and surprise at what is new or striking , 55 had extensive per- sonal acquaintance with many different Indian nations and tribes ? and have they gained their familiar friendship and co?ifidence? I am firm in the belief, that the character of unabused and uncontaminated Indians will not lose in com- parison with any other nation that can be named ; and the only material difference between man and man, is produced by the imbibed principles of the Christian religion. Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favor- able moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick- ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of the- 15 * 166 INDIAN KINDNESS. necessity of finding an encamping place ; and while doing this, we ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting us in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the log and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got off safely. After passing round a point we saw a light on the north shore, to which we directed our course and landed, where we found a small company of Indians encamped under a large projecting rock, giving shelter from the storm. They kindly shared their accommodations with us, and my tent was pitched under the concavity of the rocks ; and mats, skins, and blankets upon small stones, made me a comforta- ble bed. A good fire and refreshing supper obliviscited the labors of the day and dangers of the evening. Arose on the 30th before day, and although the morning was rainy, yet it was sufficiently calm for the express to prosecute their voyage. I arranged my mats and skins so as to shield myself and baggage from the rain ; but the men whose business it was to propel the canoe, were exposed to the storm. After a few hours’ labor and exposure, we ar- rived at the place where the May Dacre had made her har- bor, near where the southern section of the Willamette discharges its waters into the Columbia. We brought our canoe into a small bay indented in the basaltic rocks, and drew it so far upon the shore, that it was thought safe with- out any other security ; and all hastened to kindle a fire in a thatched building, which was constructed by some Kana- kas for the accommodation of the May Dacre. This shel- ter was very desirable to protect us from the storm, and to give the men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Whilst we were preparing and eating our breakfast, the flowing tide, which swells the river and slackens the current, but does not stop it, took our canoe from its moorings, and ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER. 167 drifted it a considerable distance down the river. Some In- dians whose residence was far up the Cowalitz, and who were descending the river in their canoes, saw it and re- turned with it before we knew it was gone. This act proved them to be susceptible of kindness, and increased my con- fidence in their integrity. The canoe contained valuable baggage, and we should have been left without any means of going on our way. We could not have crossed the Wil- lamette nor Columbia river, and if this had been accom- plished, still to have attempted a return by land would have been an almost hopeless undertaking, as the forest had an undergrowth which rendered it quite impassable. The Indians are accustomed so much to travel in canoes, that even the poor accomodation of a trail was not to be found here, and we should have been compelled to dispute every inch of the way with our hatchets. Before the middle of the day, the storm abated, and the remainder of our way to Fort Vancouver was pleasant, at which place we arrived before evening. We were less than three days in accom- plishing the passage from one fort to the other, and these were the only three calm days for a long time before and after. 168 WINTER QUARTERS*. CHAPTER XL Review of journeyings — school — -journey up the Willamette — walk upon the pebbly shore — falls — settlement on the Willamette — Me- thodist mission — epidemic — voyage down the river — hospitality of Wanaxka — construction of his house — Fort William on the Wap- patoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits — return to Fort Vancouver. Here, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Com- pany, I took up my residence for the winter ; intending to make such excursions as the season will admit and the ob- ject of my tour demand. As this is the principal trading post of the company, west of the Rocky Mountains, it may be expected, that many Indians from different parts of the country for considerable distance around, will be seen here during winter, and more information may be obtained of their character and condition than in any other course I could pursue. Here also traders from different stations west of the mountains will come in for new supplies, of whose personal acquaintance with Indians I may avail myself. Sabbath, November 1st. By invitation, I preached to a congregation of those belonging to this establishment who understand English. Many of the laborers are French Ca- nadians, who are Roman Catholics, and understand only the French language. O O This trading post presents an important field of labor, and if a Christian influence can be exerted here, it may be REVIEW OF JOURNEYINGS. 169 of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian population. Let a branch of Christ’s kingdom be established here, with its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted and diffused, and this place would be a centre, from which divine light would shine out, and illumine this region of darkness. This is an object of so much importance, that all my pow- ers, and energies, and time, must be employed for its ac- complishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a winter of idle confinement before me. Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings since I left my home, I can say, though long in time and distance, yet they have been pleasant and full of interest. So diversified has been the country through whiqh I have passed, and so varied the incidents, and so few real hard- ships, that the time and distance have both appeared short. Although this mission w T as thought to be one which would probably be attended with as great, if not greater dangers and deprivations than any which had been sent into any part of the world, yet my sufferings have been so small, and my mercies so great, that I can say, if this is taking up the cross, let none be dismayed ; for surely Christ’s yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought much on the prospect of having an opportunity to see whether I could “ rejoice in sufferings” for the heathen, “ and fill up that which is behind of the afflictions of Christ in my flesh for his body’s sake, which is the church,” but the protect- ing providence of God was so conspicuous and his mer- cies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear to be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough to teach me more sensibly the meaning of the petition, “give us this day our daily bread;” and the truth was comforting, that “ the Lord giveth to all their meat in 170 SCHOOL. due season.” I can truly say, “hitherto the Lord hath helped me.” I am very agreeably situated in this place. Rooms in a new house are assigned me, well furnished, and all the at- tendance which I could wish, with access to as many valu- able books as I have time to read ; and opportunities to ride out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country ; and in addition to all these, the society of gentlemen, enlightened, polished, and sociable. These comforts and privileges were not anticipated, and are therefore the more grateful. There is a school connected with this establishment for the benefit of the children of the traders and common labor- ers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were attach- ed to the Company ; and also some Indian children, who are provided for by the generosity of the resident gentle- men. They are instructed in the common branches of the English language, such as reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar and geography ; and together with these, in reli- gion and morality. The exercises of the school are closed with singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken by their teacher to a garden assigned them, in which they labor. Finding them deficient in sacred music, I instructed them in singing, in which they made good proficiency, and de- veloped excellent voices. Among them was an Indian boy, who had the most flexible and melodious voice I ever heard. It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complexion is seen in the half-breed children. Generally they have fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The children of the school were punctual in their attendance on the three services of the Sabbath, and were our choir. Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, though generally very rainy at this season of the year, as I wished JOURNEY UP THE WILLAMETTE. 171 to explore the country up the Willamette river, I embraced an opportunity of going with Mr. Lucier and family, who were returning in a canoe to their residence about fifty miles up that river. Doctor McLaughlin furnished and sent on board a stock of provisions, three or four times more than I should need, if nothing should occur to delay us, but such a precaution, in this country, is always wise. We left Fort Vancouver about one o’clock in the afternoon, and proceeded five miles dowm the Columbia to the en- trance of the Multnomah, and about fifteen up the Willa- mette before we encamped. The name Multnomah, is given to a small section of this river, from the name of a tribe of Indians who once resided about six miles on both sides from its confluence with the Columbia, to the branch which flows down the southern side of the Wappatoo island. Above this it is called the Willamette. The tide sets up this river about thirty miles, to within a few miles of the falls, and through this distance the river is wide and deep, affording good navigation for shipping. The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in the June freshet ; but as we ascend, the banks become higher, and are more generally covered with woods. The country around contains fine tracts of rich prairie, suffi- ciently interspersed with woods for all the purposes of fuel, fencing and lumber. A chain of mountains running from the south-east to the north-west, and through which the Columbia river passes below Deer island, extends along the west shore of this river for some distance, near and below 'the falls. There are probably as many Indians who navigate this river with their canoes, as any of the rivers in the lower 172 FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE. country ; many of whom I had an opportunity of observing to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whose paddles broke in upon the general silence. One company overtook us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the eleva- ted shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the damp- ness of the day, and previous rains, we had some difficulty in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished, and the wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent pitched be- fore a large fire, under the canopy of wide branching trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket with as much satisfaction as could be felt in any splendid mansion. The blaze of dry crackling fir threw brilliancy around, softened by the dark forest, like the light of the astral lamp ; and the burning balsam perfumed the air. The latter part of the night, I suffered more with the cold than at any time in all my journeying, not having taken with me as many blankets as the season required. The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the river, which collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the sur- rounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fancies, which works of art may intimate, but which only nature can perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the day, we passed several basaltic islands, some of them of sufficient magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points, between which the current was strong, requiring much ef- fort for us to make headway. Part of the way from our last encampment to the falls, which was six miles, I walked along upon the pebbled shore, where I found calcedony, agate, jasper, and cornelian of good quality. Two miles below the falls, a large stream comes in from the south-east, called Pudding river. Its entrance maks a strong current, SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE. 173 which we found difficult to stem, so that we were drifted back in spite of all our efforts ; but in the second attempt we succeeded. We arrived at the falls of the Willamette at two o’clock in the afternoon and hired eight Clough-e-wall- hah Indians to carry the canoe by the falls, the distance of half a mile, and proceeded about five miles farther before evening. These falls with the scenery around have much to charm and interest. The river above spreads out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within a half mile of the falls, when its velocity increases, its width diminishes, eddies are formed in which the water turns back as if loth to make the plunge, but is forced forward by the water in the rear, and when still nearer it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered across the channel ; then, as if resigned to its fate, smooths its agitated surges, and precip- itates down an almost perpendicular of twenty-five feet, pre- senting a somewhat whitened column. It was a pleasant day, and the rising mist formed in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow ; and the grass about the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was in fresh green. The rocks over which the water falls, and along the adjacent shores, are amygdaloid and basalt. The opportunities here for water power are equal to any that can be found. There cannot be a better situation for a factory village than on the east side of the river, where a dry wide-spread level extends some distance, and the basaltic shores form natural wharves for shipping. The whole country around, particularly the east side, is pleasant and fertile. And can the period be far distant, when there will be here a busy population ? I could hardly persuade myself that this river had for many thou- j sand years, poured its waters constantly down these falls without having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in 16 174 MC key’s settlement. these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was not the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o’clock, and all was still, except the roar of the falling water. I called to recollection, that in the year 1809 I stood by the falls of Genesee river, and all was silence except the roar of the cataract. But it is not so now ; for Rochester stands where I then stood. Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, we went on board the canoe and pursued our way up the river, which for thirty miles runs from a westerly direction, and at half past one, we arrived at McKey’s settlement. This and Jar- vis’ settlement, twelve miles above, contain about twenty families. The settlers are mostly Canadian Frenchmen with Indian wives. There are a very few Americans. The Frenchmen were laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, but have left that service, and having families they have commenced farming in this fertile section of coun- try, which is the best of the Oregon Teritory that I have as yet seen. It is well diversified with woods and prairies, the soil is rich and sufficiently dry for cultivation, and at the same time well watered with small streams and springs. These hunters, recently turned to farmers, cultivate the most common useful productions — wheat of the first quality to as great an extent as their wants require. A small grist mill is just finished, which adds to their comforts. They have a common school in each settlement instructed by American young men who are competent to the business. An opinion extensively prevails, that an American colo- ny is located somewhere in this Territory, but these two settlements are the only farming establishments which exist here, if we except those connected with the trading posts of the Hudson Bay Company. The attempt which was made MISLETOE — METHODIST MISSION. 175 some few years since by a company of men from the United States, was an entire failure, and only a few individuals of whom I obtained any knowledge, have found their way back to the States. The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter grow- ing remarkably tall. The mis.letoe, attached to the body and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beautiful dark green bunches of this plant, seen upon the leafless trees of winter, excite admiration that its verdure should continue, when the trees, from which it derives its life and support, are not able to sustain their own foliage. I rode, on Thursday the 26 th, twelve miles to Jarvis’ settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich- ness of soil and other local advantages, I should not know where to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior to this. I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately brought from California, fattening upon the fresh, luxuriant grass of the prairies. Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the river, the Methodist church of the United States have established a mission among the Calapooah Indians, of whom there are but few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason Lee and Daniel Lee are the ordained missionaries, and Mr. Shepard teacher. Their principal mode of instruction, for the present, is by means of schools. They have at this time fourteen Indian children in their school, supported in their family, and the prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can accommo- date them. Their facilities for providing for their school are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as much excel- lent land as they wish, and to raise the necessaries of life in great abundance, with little more labor than what the scholars can perform, for their support. The missionaries 176 EPIDEMIC. have an additional opportunity of usefulness, which is to establish a Christian influence among the people of these infant settlements. Mr. J. Lee preaches to them on the Sabbath, and they have a very interesting Sabbath school among the half-breed children. These children generally have fair complexions, active minds, and make a fine ap- pearance. The prospect is, that this mission may lay a foundation for extensive usefulness. There is as yet one important desideratum — these missionaries have no wives. Christian white women are very much needed to exert an influence over Indian females. The female character must be elevated, and until this is done but little is accomplished ; and females can have access to, and influence over females in many departments of instruction, to much better advan- tage than men. And the model, which is furnished by an intelligent and pious family circle, is that kind of practical instruction, whether at home or abroad, which never fails to recommend the gospel. At the time of my continuance in this place, a singular epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several persons died. The subjects of the complaint were attacked with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, which soon spread through the whole head, with great heat in the part affected ; at the same time the pulse became very fee- ble and not very frequent — soon the extremities became cold, and a general torpor spread through the whole system, ex- cept the head — soon they were senseless, and in a short pe- riod died. In some cases the attack was less severe, and the patient lingered, and after some days convalesced, or continued to sink until death closed his earthly existence. Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode with Mr. J. Lee several miles south to see more of the country. The same rich 3 HOSPITALITY OF WANAXKA. 177 black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass in abund- ance ; and also the same diversity of wood and prairie. This valley is generally about fifty miles wide east and west, and far more extended north and south. Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an Indian boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night with the epidemic. Most of the children of the school and the Sabbath school attended, and conducted with propriety. On Saturday I returned to McKey’s settlement, to fulfil an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the Sabbath. I stopped with Mr. Edwards, who is temporarily attached to the mission, but now teaching school in this settlement. Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent con- gregation, but not more than half of them could understand English. After service I was called to visit a Mr. Carthre, who was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which gave him immediate relief, and applied a blister, and, as I afterward learned, he recovered. Early on Monday morning, the 30th, McKey furnished me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the falls, where we arrived safely at three o’clock in the after- noon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small village of the Clough-e-wall-hah tribe, who have a perma- nent residence a little below the falls, to carry me in a ca- noe to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, the chief, came up to the falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the night, and invited me to share the hospitality of his house. I hes- itated, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On the other hand, there was every appearance of a cold, heavy storm, 16* 178 CONSTRUCTION OF HIS HOUSE. and very little wood near, which I could procure for a fire only with my hatchet, and I should be alone, exposed to ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration, however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would gratify the chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with him to his dwelling, which was a long permanent building on the west side of the river, upon an elevation of one hundred feet, and near which were several other buildings of nearly the same dimensions. Besides the family of the chief, there were two other families in the same building, in sections of about twenty feet, separated from each other by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of logs split into thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of their buildings below the surface of the earth, as some of the In- dians do about and below the Cascades. The walls of the chief’s house were about seven feet high, with the roofs more steeply elevated than what is common in the United States, made of the same materials with the walls, except that the planks were of less thickness. They have only one door to the house, and this is in the centre of the front side. They have no chimneys to carry off the smoke, but a hole is left open above the fire-place, which is in the cen- tre of each family’s apartment. This answers very well in calm weather, but when there is much wind, the whole building becomes a smoke house. The fire-place of the chief’s apartment was sunk a foot below the surface of the earth, eight feet square, secured by a frame around, and mats were spread upon the floor for the family to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides of the apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with moveable ladders for ascent; and under them they stow away their dried fish, roots, ber- ries, and other effects. There was not an excess of neat- A MORNING VOYAGE. 179 ness within, and still less without. The Indians in the lower country who follow fishing and fowling for af liveli- hood are far from being as neat as those in the upper coun- try, who depend more upon the chase. The latter live in moveable lodges and frequently change their habitations. But these Indians were also kind. They gave me most of one side of the fire-place, spread down clean new mats, re- plenished their fire, and were ready to perform any service I should wish. They filled my tea-kettle, after which I spread out the stores so bountifully provided by Doct. Mc- Laughlin, and performed my own cooking. During the evening, the chief manifested a disposition to be sociable, but we had very little language common to us both, besides the language of signs. The next thing, when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify myself against a numerous and insidious enemy. I first spread down the cloth of my tent, then my blankets, and wrapped myself up as securely as I could, and should have slept comfortably, had I not too fully realized my apprehensions. As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two Indians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen miles before we landed for breakfast. I find a great difference in going with or against the current of these rivers. Since going up this river, the number of swans and geese had greatly multiplied upon the waters and along the shores. Their noise, and especially 'that of the swans, echoed through the woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful and majestic bird ; its large body, long neck, clear white color, and graceful movements place it among the very first of the winged tribe. The common seal are numerous in this river. It is very difficult to shoot them, even with the 180 LOVE OF ARDENT SPIRITS. best rifles, on account of their diving with extreme sudden- ness atfthe flash. I had a fair opportunity to shoot one to- day, but with one splash he was out of sight and did not again appear. When I came to the north-western branch of the Multnomah, I proceeded down four miles to Fort William, on the Wappatoo island, an establishment which belongs to Captain Wyeth and Company. The location is pleasant, and the land around is of the first quality. Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place here between two men from the United States. The subject of their dispute was an Indian woman. Thornburgh was de- termined to take her from Hubbard, even at the risk of his own life. He entered Hubbard’s cabin in the night, armed with a loaded rifle, but H. saw him and shot him through the breast, and violently thrust him through the door. Poor T. fell and expired. In the absence of any judicial tribu- nal, a self-created jury of inquest, on examination into the circumstances of the case, brought in a verdict of “ justifia- ble homicide.” In Thornburgh, w T as an instance of a most insatiable ap- petite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the ornithologist, whom I have before mentioned, told me he was encamped out for several days, some miles from Fort William, at- tending to the business of his profession ; and that in addi-. tion to collecting birds, he had collected rare specimens of reptiles, wdfich he preserved in a keg of spirits. Sev- eral days after he was in this encampment, he went to his keg to deposite another reptile, and found the spirits gone. Mr. Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been several times loitering about, charged him with having drank off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst as an apology. RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 181 On Wednesday, the 2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver, well pleased with my excursion. The weather was gene- rally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. The w'hole country is adapted by nature to yield to the hand of cultivation, and ere long, I may say, without claiming to be prophetic, will be filled, through the whole extent of the valley of the Willamette, with farms spread out in rich luxuriance, and inhabitants, whose character will depend upon the religious advantages or disadvantages which be- nevolent and philanthropic individuals give or withhold. I found the people of the fort in their usual active business pursuits, and received a renewed and cordial welcome. 182 SERVICES ON THE SABBATH. CHAPTER XII. Services on the Sabbath — obstacles to the gospel — discouraging case — manner of spending time — description of Vancouver — fur and farm- ing establishment — garden productions — lumber — commerce — pel- tries — system of the Hudson Bay Company — waste of life — hard- ships of a hunter’s life — their perseverance — Christian principle — worldly principle. Sabbath, 6th. I have attended three services, morning, afternoon, and evening, and expect to continue them during my residence in this place. Through the week there will be but few opportunities to do much for the spiritual benefit of the common laborers ; for in this high northern latitude, the days in the winter are so short that the men are called out to their work before daylight, and continue their labor until near dark ; and as their families do not understand English, I have no direct means of benefiting them. There is another circumstance which operates against the prospects of benefiting many of the population here — the common practice of living in families without being married. They do not call the women with whom they live, their wives, but their women . They know they are living in the constant violation of -divine prohibition, and acknow- ledge it, by asking how they can, with any consistency, at- tend to their salvation, while they are living in sin. I urged the duty of entering into the marriage relation. They have two reasons for not doing so. One is, that if they may wish to return to their former homes and friends, they can- not take their families with them. The other is, that these DIFFICULTIES. 183 Indian women do not understand the obligations of the mar- riage covenant, and if they, as husbands, should wish to fulfil their duties, yet their wives might, through caprice, leave them, and they should be bound by obligations, which their wives would disregard. There is no doubt, but that this subject is attended with real difficulties, but are they insurmountable ? Has God given a law, which if obeyed would not secure our greatest and best good ? Can a rational mind balance for a moment the pleasure of a sinful life against interests which stand connected inseparably with permanent happiness, and with a duration, compared to which, the whole of this mortal life is but a speck, a nothing. My heart is pained when I wit- ness the things which are seen and temporal preferred to those that are unseen and pure, and which are commensu- rate with existence itself. I cannot believe, that if these men should marry the women with whom they live, and do all they could to instruct them, and treat them with tender- ness and respect, that there would be many cases of their leaving their husbands. And whatever might be the results, it is always better to suffer wrong, than do wrong. But their social comforts are so strongly bound with the cords of sin, that they feel, as they express their own case, that it is use- less to make any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until they shall be placed in different circumstances. As much of my time, through the week, was occu- pied in study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural history of the country west of the Rocky Moun- tains, and the character and condition of the Indians, which came under my observation at different times and places ; and also that which I obtained from persons whose testimony could be relied upon, and which came 184 THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. under their personal observation, I shall give them with- out particular dates. I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment, in finding so many of the comforts of life, at different trad- ing posts of the Hudson Bay Company ; I have also given a brief description of the local situation of Fort Vancouver. This was taken from such observations as I could make in a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey to the shores of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was commenced in the year 1824. It being necessary that the gentlemen, who are engaged in transacting the business of the Compa- ny west of the mountains, and their laborers, should be better and less precariously supplied with the necessaries of life, than what game furnishes ; and the expense of trans- porting suitable supplies from England being too great, it was thought important to connect the business of farming with that of fur, to an extent equal to their necessary de- mands, and as this fort is the central place of business to which shipping come, and from which they depart for dif- ferent parts of the north-west coast, and to which, and from which, brigades of hunting parties come and go ; the prin- cipal farming business was established here, and has been progressing until provisions are furnished in great abund- ance. There are large fertile prairies, which they occupy for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing materials and other purposes. In the year 1835, at this post, there were four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one hundred horses, two hundred sheep, forty goats, and three hundred hogs. They had raised the same year five thousand bushels of wheat, of the best quality I ever saw ; one thousand three hundred bushels of potatoes ; one thousand of barley, one thousand of oats, two thousand of peas, and a large variety of garden HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 185 vegetables. This estimate does not include the horses, homed cattle, &o. and produce raised at other stations. But little, however, is done at any of the others, excepting Colvile, the uppermost post on the northern branch of the Columbia. The garden of this station, enclosing about five acres, is laid out with regularity and good taste. While a large part is appropriated to the common esculent vegeta- bles, ornamental plants and flowers are not neglected. F ruit of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and straw- berries, for the time they have been introduced, flourish and prove that the climate and soil are well adapted to the pur- poses of horticulture. Various tropical fruits, such as figs, oranges, and lemons, have also been introduced, and grow with about the same care that they would require in the latitude of Philadelphia. In connection with this business and farming establish- ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox power, which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of excellent quality. Six miles up the Columbia, at the con- fluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation most of the year. This mill though large, does not furnish more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in the United States. There being no pine below the Cas- cades, and hut very little within five hundred miles of the mouth of the Columbia river, the only timber sawed in this mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the i common business about this station, one, and sometimes two | ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich islands, and it is there called pine of the north-west coast, and sells for about fi ‘ / dollars the thousand feet. Spars and timber for i shipping .dso sent to that market. Boards of fir are not 17 186 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. so durable, when exposed to the weather, as those of pine, nor so easily worked. One half of the grain of each an- nual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and spungy, which easily absorbs moisture and causes speedy decay. There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily use in the fort, and a large supply of sea biscuit for the ship- ping and trading stations along the north-west coast. There are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners, carpenters, and a tinner. Here is a well-regulated medical department, and a hospi- tal for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which Indians who are laboring under any difficult and dangerous diseases are received, and in most cases have gratuitous at- tendance. Among the large buildings, there are four for the trading department. One for the Indian trade, in which are depo- sited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods open- ed for the current year’s business ; and another for storing goods in a year’s advance. Not less than a ship load of goods is brought from England annually, and always at least one in advance of their present use, so that if any dis- aster should befall their ship on her passage, the business of the Company would not have to be suspended. By this mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in the spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, freighted * with lumber to the island, and bringing back to Vancouver salt and other commodities, but generally not enough for ballast ; and in the last of September, or in October, she sails for England with the peltries obtained during the pre- ceding year. THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 187 The fur business about and west of the Rocky Mountains, is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for so extensively and constantly have every nook and corner been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur ani- mals are becoming scarce. It is rational to conclude that it will not be many years before this business will not be worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50° of north latitude ; north of this, in the colder and more densely wooded regions, the business will not probably vary in any important degree. But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever succeeded in making it profitable. Several companies have sustained great loss, or entire failure, owing generally to their igno- rance of the country, and the best mode of procedure. The conductors of these enterprises, mainly, were inexpe- rienced in Indian trade, and, like Americans generally, they perhaps expected the golden fruits of their labor and industry, without the patience requisite to ensure it. Hence the results have frequently been disappointment. The Hudson Bay Company have reduced their business to such a system, that no one can have the charge of any impor- tant transactions without having passed through the inferior grades, which constitutes several years’ apprenticeship. Their lowest order are what they call servants, (common laborers.) All above these are called gentlemen, but of different orders. The lowest class are clerks, then chief- clerks ; next traders, and chief-traders ; factors, and chief- factors ; and the highest, governors. Of the last office there are only two ; one resides in London, who is at the head of the whole business of the Company, and the other resides in Montreal, Lower Canada. There are only two, 188 THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER. chief-factors west of the Mountains, John McLaughlin, Esq. and Duncan Finlayson, Esq. and with them are associated in business several chief-traders and traders, and chief- clerks and clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are pro- portioned to the stations they occupy. This being their system of business, no important enterprise is ever intrusted to any inexperienced person. It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few’ of all those who engage in the fur business about, and west of the Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla, told me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt- ers near, but west of the mountains, they were under the necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more than two hundred who had been in his employment in the course of three years, only between thirty and forty were known to be alive. From this data it may be seen that the life of hunters in these far western regions averages about three years. And with these known facts, still hundreds and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter’s life, and expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death. The estimate has been made from sources of correct infor- mation, that there are nine thousand white men in the north and in the great west, engaged in the various departments of trading, trapping and hunting, including Americans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It is more than one hundred and fifty years since white men penetrated far into the forests, in their canoes freighted with goods, coasting the shores of the remote lakes, and following up the still more remote rivers, to traffick with the Indians for their furs, not regarding hunger, toils, and dangers. These enterpri- CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. 189 ses have been extended and pursued with avidity, until every Indian nation and tribe has been visited by the trader. What is the power of that principle which draws these thousands from their country, and their homes, and all the ties of kindred ? Is the love of gain and hope of wealth the motive by which courage and daring are roused,, and dangers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less powerful principle ? Has it only furnished twenty or thirty mission- aries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to the many ten thousand Indians in the widely extended country, over which are ranging nine thousand traders, trappers and hunters ? Are these the only evidences the church of God can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to Christ, and to the interests of the immortal soul ? If so, then Christians surely must suffer in comparison with worldly men, and our heaven-descended religion, if judged of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed unworthy of its. name and origin. But this want of Christian enterprise, characterized by the late period in which it is begun, and carried forward with such slow and faltering steps, is not only to be lamented as a blot upon the Christian name, but incomparably more is it to be lamented that in consequence, generation after generation of the heathen, to say nothing of the thousands who are trafficking among them, are left in their ignorance of the Savior to perish eternally. How long shall it be, that w T hen an adventurous man forms a plan for traffick in far distant wilds, in a short time a com- pany is formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars, and a hundred men are found to face hardships and dangers, and they are away ? But when a Christian heart is stirred up to go and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian na- tion, he may plead and plead for four men and two thou-. 17 * 190 CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. sand dollars, and perhaps in vain. But it is said, a great deal is now doing for the heathen world. How much? As much as to give jive ministers to the United States. All that is doing for the conversion of the heathen is not more than it would cost to build, and man, and defray the expen- ses of one ship of war. INDIAN POPULATION. 191 CHAPTER XIII. Indian population — diseases — mortality— attributed to cultivation of the soil— destitute of medical science — holidays- — customs at home- customs of the Indians— resemblance to Jewish customs in punish- ment — marriage contracts — condition of the females — slavery- division into tribes — -two points of dissimilarity — -sacrifices— lan- guage. 1 have found the Indian population in the lower country, that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than I had expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made their tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven-eighths, if not as Dr. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, have been swept away by disease, principally by fever and ague. The malignan- cy of this disease may have been increased by predisposing causes, such as intemperance, and the influence of intercourse with sailors. But a more direct cause of the great mortal- ity, was their mode of treatment. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged themselves into the river, and con- tinued in the water until the heat was allayed, and rarely survived the cold stage which followed. So many and so sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed with the unburied dead. Whole and large villages were depopulated ; and some entire tribes have dis- appeared, the few remaining persons, if there were any, uniting themselves with other tribes. This great mortality extended not only from the vicinity of the Cascades to the shores of the Pacific, but far north and south ; it is said as 192 HOLIDAYS. far south as California. The fever and ague was never known before the year 1829, and Dr. McLaughlin mention- ed it as a singular circumstance, that this was the year in which fields were ploughed for the first time. He thought there must have been spme connexion between breaking up the soil and the fever. I informed him that the same fever prevailed in the United States, about the same time, and in places which had not before been subject to the complaint. The mortality, after one or two seasons, abated, partly from the want of subjects, and partly from medical assistance ob- tained from the hospital at Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and their sufferings under diseases are far greater than they would be, if they were furnished with a know- ledge of medicine. Indian doctors are only Indian conju- rers. But I shall have occasion to say more upon this sub- ject when I describe Indian customs. December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these far distant regions. From Christmas until after the New Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of indulgence and festivity commences. Only this once in the whole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when they have a free allowance, furnishing them the opportunity to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were easily and always acces- sible. On Christmas morning they dress themselves in their best attire, accelerated movements are seen in every direction, and preparation is made for dinners, which are sure to be fur- nished in their first style, and greatest profusion ; and the day passes in mirth and hilarity. But it does not end with the day ; for the passions and appetites pampered through the day, prepare the way for the night to be spent in dan- cing, and loud and boisterous laughter, shouts, and revelry, consume the hours designed for rest. They continue these CUSTOMS AT HOME. 193 high-strung convivialities until they pass the portals of the new year, when labor and toil resume their place. Such are often the customs of those who profess to be wiser and better. The expiring year vanishes, amidst the noise and revels of many, who pretend by such methods to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of that only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect order. And too many give as they profess, but a decent honor and respect to those festival days, when from house to house of their best or indifferent friends, the wine is cir- culated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is it so, that these days are baptized with the name of holy days ? The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly led them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior’s birth, but whenever such uncommanded observances are greatly abu- sed, the same piety will exert itself to bring about a reform- ation ; and if this cannot be done, then to abolish the cus- tom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, in the case of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as a memorial of the salvation wrought instrumentally by it for those who were bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed it when the people idolized and burned incense to it. The question whether there is any evidence that the In- dians are descended from the ten lost tribes of Israel, though frequently and largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily answered. From all the personal observations I could make, and efforts at examination, I could not obtain any thing conclusive upon the subject, but am induced to believe that their origin will remain as problematical in future, as it has been in time past. There are some things in their belief and customs which favor the idea that they are of Isra- elitish descent. Their entire freedom from idolatry is a pe- 194 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. culiar characteristic, by which they are distinguished from all other heathen. It will be remembered that this propen- sity of the Jews to idolatry was entirely subdued from the time of their captivity in Babylon. It was predicted by the prophet Hosea of the children of Israel, that “they should abide many days without a king, and without a prince and without a sacrifice.” Among the Indians beyond the moun- tains, I found no idols, nor any appearance of idolatry. They believe in only one God, and all their worship, so far as they have any, is offered to Him, or as they would say, to the Great Spirit. They believe in the immortality of the soul, and future rewards and punishments. They have no sacrifices, no kings, and no prince. Their government is invested entirely in their chiefs, no one of whom has any special control over the others, or over the people, but they always act in united councils. Their minds are perfectly open to receive any truth in regard to the character and worship of God. They have many traditions and super- stitions ; and some persons can hardly see the distinction be- tween a reverence for these, and idol worship — for instance, though they may believe that the Great Wolf and the Grey Bear scrambled together the mountains in a fight, yet they do not worship either. Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet coin- cides with what was the custom of the Jews. The nearest relatives of the murdered person are the “avengers of blood,” the executioners, or “pursuers of blood.” They kill the murderer if they can find him ; and in their own tribe or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any other person, so that “ the fathers are not put to death for the children, neither are the children put to death for the fathers ; RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 195 every man is put to death for his own sin.” As the Jews did not regard other nations with the same benevolence as their own, so the Indians make a distinction between their own tribe or nation, and others. If one is killed by a per- son belonging to another nation, if they cannot obtain and put the murderer to death, they will take the life of some of the relatives of the murderer ; or, if they fail of this, some one of the nation must atone for the crime. And if this cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood will still be de- manded, though years may pass away before it is canceled. There is also some resemblance in their marriage con- tractSi The negotiation is commenced, if not completed, with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of Isaac’s marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant to go to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He went, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the appointed person, he first consulted her father and brother, and when their approbation was obtained, Rebekah’s ap- proval closed the contract, and presents were made to the several members of the family. The customs of the In- dians are substantially the same. The bridegroom negoti- ates with the parents, and the approbation of the daughter being obtained, the stipulated commodities are paid and the man takes his wife. But as much or more is given in dowry to the daughter. The presents and dowry are pro- portioned to the rank and wealth of the contracting parties. Wanaxka, the first chief of the Clough-e-wall-hah Indians, has refused more than one hundred dollars for a beautiful daughter, whom I saw when I shared the hospitality of his house. A chief at the La Dalles has refused two horses and six blankets, together with several other articles of smaller value. It is not, however, to be understood, that 196 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. marriage is a mere mercenary transaction ; for fancy and choice have their influence with them, as well as among more refined people. Another resemblance between the Indians and the Jews may be traced in the estimation in which the females are held. No doubt the degradation of Indian women is to be attributed in a large degree to heathenism, and that unciv- ilized and savage state in which we find them ; yet in their respective occupations we find some features which are not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do not pos- sess slaves, the women cut and prepare wood for fire, as well as food for their families, they pack and unpack the horses, set up and take down lodges, gather roots and ber- ries for food, dress the skins for clothing, and make them into garments. So the Jewish women drew water for flocks and camels, and watched over them ; they gleaned the fields in harvest ; they also performed the work of grinding in the mill. Our Savior refers to this, when he foretold the de- struction of Jerusalem. “ Two women shall be grinding at the mill, one shall be taken and the other left.” Slavery was suffered among the Jews, and undoubtedly for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting away their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While the great law-giver did not at once abolish the practice, he brought it under modified restrictions. The stealing and selling a man was punishable with death. If a man bought a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not to exceed six years. Intermarriages took place between these ser- vants and the families of their masters ; and the betrothed maid was to be treated like a daughter. The same restric- tions were not, however, enjoined in relation to those bond- men who were bought of the heathen, until the days of the RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 197 prophets, when they were commanded to break every yoke and let the oppressed go free. So also slavery exists in a modified form among the Indians west of the mountains, not generally, but only among the nations in the low r er country. They are bought ; taken prisoners in war ; taken in pay- ments of debts* if they are orphans of the debtor ; and sell themselves in pledges. They are put to the same service which women perform among those Indians who have no slaves. They are generally treated with kindness ; live in the same dwelling with their masters, and often intermarry with those who are free. They are exempt from one cruel practice which their masters inflict upon their own children, the flattening of their heads. The reason, which those w r ho possess slaves assign for flattening their own heads, is, that they may be distinguished from their slaves who have round heads. Polygamy is practiced among the Indians, and with nearly the same regulations with which it was prac- ticed among the Jews. Though they do not write bills of divorcement and put away their wives, yet they send them away on slight occasions. But this brings no disgrace upon the woman’s character, and gene- rally she is soon married to another, and often as ad- vantageously. Another resemblance between the Jews and the Indians is the division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of the children of Israel were the 'descend ants of distinguished families, and their government was patriarchal. The tribes among the Indians are constituted much in the same way. Some important personage gains an influence, numbers be- come attached to him ; and though they do not separate from their nation, nor at once become a distinct tribe, yet 18 198 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH. CUSTOMS. they are denominated a band, and these bands in many cases grow up into tribes. How much allusion there may be to the ancient Jewish custom of wearing “ fringes to the borders of their gar- ments / 5 I am not able to determine by eliciting any facts from Indian tradition, but the practice is universal among the tribes west of the mountains, as far as my observation extended — and so fond are they of this ornament to their dress, that every seam in their garments is furnished with it. There is one consideration which should not be passed over, and which may appear to be against the evidences that the Indians are of Israelitish origin. Every different nation has an entirely distinct language. These languages are more distinct than the different lan- guages of Europe ; for in all the different languages of Eu- rope there are words derived from Latin, common to each, which prove a common relation. Now, if the Indians are descended from the Jews, and of course once had a common language, the Hebrew, notwithstanding their departure by different dialects from their original, might it not be expected that there would still remain words and idioms indicative of their common origin. But it is not so, as may be seen in a vocabulary of a few languages which I shall subjoin. They have some words in common with Latin, Greek and He- brew, but these are used in an entirely different sense from that in which they are used in those languages. As far as it respects language, the proof of a Jewish, or even of a common origin, is not only doubtful but highly improbable. ANIMALS. 199 CHAPTER XIV. The Various animals beyond the Mountains. It is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indian countries and especially in the far regions beyond the moun- tains, are very numerous; but, excepting buffalo within their range, which is becoming more and more circum- scribed, game is scarce. In giving an account of animals beyond the mountains, I shall not go into a minute descrip- tion of those which are familiar to all classes of persons. Among the animals of the genus cervus , the elk is the largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable num- bers east of the Rocky Mountains, but is less numerous on the west side. It combines beauty with magnitude and strength, and its large towering horns give it an imposing appearance. Its senses are so keen in apprehension, that it is difficult to be approached; and its speed in flight is so great that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef, though less highly flavored, and is much sought for by the Indians and hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used in articles of clothing and for moccasons. I did not see the moose ; they are said to be found farther north, in the colder and woody: regions. There are three species of deer; the red, the black-tailed, and the common American deer. Like those found in other countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid aspect; ele- gant in form, with slender, nervous limbs. When any ob- ject or noise alarms them, they throw up their heads, erect 200 ANIMALS. and move their ears in every direction to catch the sounds ; snuff up the wind, and bound off with great celerity. The deer west of the mountains are more lean and the flesh is less inviting than those found in the United States. This may arise from the nature of the food to which they are confined, having less opportunity for browsing, especially upon such shrubbery as is congenial to their natures, there being but very few of the sacchariferous kinds found in their country. The red deer are generally found about the Rocky Moun- tains and upon the head waters of the Columbia. The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow color, like the common American deer, are somewhat darker, and their tails are larger and nearly black, which gives them their name. Their eyes are large and prominent, their ears are also large and long, and judging from those I saw, they are smaller than the common deer. When they move faster than a walk, they bound. The antelope, which I have already described, page 61st, are numerous in the upper and prairie country. It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted for its valuable fur, for its activity, and perseverance, — its so- cial habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its village, and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, is an in- habitant of this country. It has been sought with avidity, and has been a source of wealth to many, but to multitudes, of poverty, misery and death. It would be difficult to sum up the woes of the last class of adventurers. Its flesh is very good for food, and the trapper and hunter depend al- most entirely upon it for subsistence, while in its pursuit. Although I ate several times the flesh of the beaver, yet I discovered no evidence of the truth of the assertion often ANIMALS. 201 made, that while the flesh of the fore parts is of the quality of land animals, its hind parts are in smell and taste like fish. I should think it would require much assistance from imagination to discover the fish taste. Here also the land otter is found, and is somewhat numer- ous, and next to the beaver is sought with avidity by the hunter and trader. The shades of its color vary from a light, to a deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in great de- mand, and there is none found in any country of better qual- ity than the skins I saw at different trading posts of the Hud- son Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to land and water, having short and muscular legs, so articulated that it can bring them horizontal with its body, and use them as fins in the water ; and its toes are webbed like water fowl. It subsists principally upon fish, frogs and other aquatic animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems to be its pastime, for we know of no motive it can have, unless it be the love of amusement, which is to ascend a high ridge of snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide down head foremost upon its breast. When there is no snow, it will in the same manner slide down steep, smooth, grassy banks. The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich fur, is found only along the American coast and adjacent islands, from Kamschatka to upper California. They vary in size, are generally about four feet long when full grown, and nine inches in diameter. Its legs are very short, and its feet are webbed. Its fur is of the first quality, long and glossy, extremely fine, intermixed with some hairs ; the out- side is black, sometimes, however, dusky, and the inside a cinerous brown. They are amphibious, sportive, and often bask upon the shore for repose, and when asleep the Indians 18 * 202 ANIMALS. approach and slay them. They have been so much hunted for their valuable fur, that they are diminishing in numbers. The hair seal is very frequently seen in the waters of Columbia river. Its head is large and round, its eye full and mild. I often saw it swimming after our canoe, present- ing to view its head, neck, and shoulders, appearing, in some degree, like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various colors, generally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from its most natural element, water ; but is sometimes seen basking upon rocks on the shore, and this is the most favorable opportu- nity for killing it ; for its motions are so quick in the water, that it will submerge at the flash of the rifle, and if killed in the water it sinks, and is difficult to be obtained. In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky Moun- tains, I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep. I am unwilling to state, as facts, the descriptions of others, especially as there are so many wrong statements made in natural history. I did not see any of these animals, which probably I should have done, if they were as numerous as travelers have said they are. I saw their horns, which are enormously large, if, as it is said, their bodies are not much larger than a com- mon deer. A horn which I measured, was five inches in diameter at its juncture with the head, and eighteen long. Its flesh, of which I had an opportunity to eat, was far pref- erable to the best mutton. They inhabit the mountains, and are said to select the most rough and precipitous parts where grass is found. They are not covered with wool, but with hair so bordering upon wool as to render its coat warm in the winter. The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of them ANIMALS. 203 for description, but succeeded in obtaining only small parts of their skins. The racoon is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun- try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not dis- cover any difference in their appearance and habits from those in the United States. The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the plains west of the great chain of mountains. Having giv- en a short description of this animal, page 62, when passing through the parts where it was seen, it is not necessary in this place to make any further remarks. The weasel, the polecat, the marmot, the mink and musk- rat, are common, though not numerous, in this country, and not differing from those on the eastern part of this conti- nent, they do not need description. The wolverine is said to inhabit these western regions, and I saw one in the Salmon river mountains, which my In- dians killed. The animal differed in several particulars from the description given by Richardson. It was one foot nine inches from its nose to its tail ; its body was not large in proportion to the length, short legs, small eyes and ears ; the neck short, and as large as the head, and its mouth shaped like that of the dog. Its color was uniformly a dark brown, nearly black ; and its fur was more than an inch long and coarse. I had no opportunity of observing* its habits. The hedgehog is common in all parts of the Oregon Terri- tory, does not differ from those found in other parts of Amer- ica, and for its quills, is held in high estimation by the Indi- ans. It is interesting to see with how much ingenuity, and in how many various forms, the Indians manufacture these quills into ornamental work, such as moccasons, belts* and various other articles. 204 ANIMALS. There are three kinds of squirrels — two of which I have already described. The third is the gray, which differs from those in the United States in being larger and its color more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins made into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cascades. Of the feline, or cat kind, there are the panther, the long tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, and the lynx. The panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and country produces no change in its ferociousness and other habits, from those found in other parts of America. The long tailed tiger cat is more common, very large, and of a dull reddish color. Also the common wild cat is often seen. It is much smaller, its tail is short and its color is like the above named. I can only name the lynx, as they did not come under my observation. It is in the lower, wooded country they are found, and the Indians say they are nu- merous. There are five' different species of wolves; the common gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie wolf. The common gray wolf is the same as those found in the United States, and has all their common habits. The black wolf, I did not see, but as described by Mr. Ermitinger, a gentleman belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, is larger than the gray and more noble in its appearance, and is the strongest of the wolf kind. Those which the same gentle- man called the blue wolf, are rarely seen, as also the white, and so far as their habits are known, they do not materi- ally differ from others. The small prairie wolf is the most common, and bears the greatest resemblance to the dog, and has been called the wild dog. It differs from the dog in all the peculiarities of the wolf kind as much as the others do. It is as uniform in its color, size, and habits. ANIMALS. 205 They are of a dull reddish gray, never particolored ; the hair is always long, blended with brown fur at its roots, and like other wolves they are always prowling and cow- ardly. They are more numerous than the other kinds, and in considerable numbers follow the caravans to feed upon the offals. Although we frequently heard them howl and bark around our encampments, yet they never disturbed our rest. Much has been said about the immense number of wolves beyond the Rocky Mountains, but I did not find them so numerous as I expected. I do not make this assertion solely from the fact that I saw or heard only a few, but from the testimony of those whose long residence in this country entitles them to credit. It is the traveler who never saw the country he describes, or the lover of the marvelous, or he who does not expect soon to be followed in his route through dreary and uninhabited wilds, who sees, and minutely relates, adventures with the reptiles and monsters of the desert. The fox, which is generally dispersed through the world, is found here in three different kinds ; the red, gray, and silver. They do not differ from those found east of the mountains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly esteemed, and takes the highest rank among the furs of commerce. Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the ends of the hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the uncommon fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful glossy appearance. Martins are not abundant ; some are found about the head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but they are more numerous and of superior quality farther north. The inoffensive, timorous hare, in three different species, 206 ANIMALS. abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its large active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in this, as mother regions. The three species are, the large common hare, which is generally known, the small chief hare with large round ears, and a very small species, only five or six inches long, with pointed ears. If the first named differs in any particular from those in the United States, it is in its manner of running, and its speed. Its bound is not reg- ular, but its motions are an alternate running and leaping at an almost incredible distance, and with such swiftness that I frequently mistook it, at first view, for the prairie hen, which I supposed was flying near the surface of the ground. Its flesh, when used for food, is tender and of a pleasant flavor. The only dress which many of the Indians have to pro- tect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these ani- mals, patched together into a scanty robe. There is a small species of the marmot, of which I have seen no description in any work on natural history, which is probably peculiar to this country. It is called by the Nez Perces, eluet ; is five inches long from the tip of its nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length — its body is one inch and a third in diameter, the color is brown, beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon its back. It has eight long hairs projecting from the nose, on each side, and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those be- longing to its genus. It is remarkably nimble in its move- ments. The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury. There are four varieties of bears, though it is supposed there are only two distinct species. These are the white, grizzly, brown, and black. The white bear is ferocious and ANIMALS. 207 powerful, but their numbers are so small in the region of the Oregon country, that they are not an object of dread. But the grizzly bear is far more numerous, more formidable, and larger, some of them weighing six or eight hundred pounds. Their teeth are formed for strength, and their claws are equally terrific, measuring four or five inches ; and their feet, which are astonishingly large, exclusive of the claws, measuring not far from ten inches long, and five inches wide. There are some even larger. The shades of their color vary from very light gray to a dark brown, always retaining the grizzly characteristic. Among a mul- titude of their skins which I saw, there were some beauti- fully dappled, and as large as buffalo robes. These were held in high estimation. Their hair and fur is longer, finer, and more abundant than of any other species. They de- pend more upon their strength than speed for taking their prey, and therefore generally lurk in willows or other thick- ets, and suddenly seize upon any animal which may be passing near. The mountain men tell as many wonderful stories about their encounters with these prodigies of strength and ferocity, as some mountain travelers tell us about con- stant battles with the Blackfeet Indians, and starvation, and eating dogs. Now I may be considered deficient in & flex- ible and fruitful imagination, if I do not entertain my read- ers with one bear story, after having traveled thousands of miles over prairies, and mountains, through valleys, ravines, and amongst caves, chasms and deserts. But as I did not myself have any wonderful encounters, I must borrow from a gentleman of established good character, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who gave me an account of a case which he witnessed. He and a number of others were traveling in canoes up the Athabasca river, and one morn- 208 ANIMALS. in g one of their hunters shot upon the shore a large cub of a grizzly bear, which they took on board a canoe, and of which they made their supper on encamping for the night. While seated around their fire in conversation, the supposed mother of the slain cub approached, sprang across the cir- cle and over the fire, seized the hunter who had shot the cub, threw him across her shoulder, and made off with him. They all laid hold of their rifles and pursued, but feared to fire lest they should injure their companion. But he re- ✓ quested them to fire, which one of them did and wounded the bear. She then dropped the first offender, and laid hold of the last in like manner as the first, but more roughly, and accelerated her departure. There was no time to be lost, and several fired at the same time, and brought her to the ground. The last man was badly wounded but recov- ed. The “ great medicine” or mystery in this case, I shall not attempt to explain, but let every one account for it in his own way. The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary, and not highly esteemed either for food or for its skin. The black bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, but lives more upon vegetable food, and is more in estimation for its pure black, well-coated skin. I close with the buffalo, which is of the bovine genus, and ^ is the largest and the most important for food and covering of any of the animals in our country. I need not in this place go into so long description, as otherwise would be important, having already spoken of them as I was passing through their range of country. After having seen thousands and ten thousands of them, and having had months of time to examine their forms and habits, I do not think they should be classed with the buffalo or bison of the eastern continent. ANIMALS. 209 Not with the buffalo, if historians have given a correct de- scription of those on that continent. The flesh of those is said to be “black, hard, and very unpalatable; their hides impenetrable, making soft and smooth leather — their race is so fierce and formidable, that there is no method of escaping their pursuit but by climbing up into some immense tree ; for a moderate tree would be broken down by them, and many travelers have instantly been gored to death by them and trampled to pieces under their feet.” It is said “ their voice is a hideous loud bellow.” But none of these things are true of the buffalo of our country. If a true account has been given of the bison of the east- ern continent, our buffalo differ from them in several mate- rial traits of character and habits. Those of the eastern continent, are said to have “ small heads, with horns so wide spread, that three men can sit between them, — that their eyes are small, red and fiery, — that they have a hump upon their backs like a camel, and which is preferred to be eat- en for its delicacy- — that they are fierce and vindictive, so that men have to fly to trees for safety, — that the bulls and cows live in separate bands.” These things do not corres- pond with the buffalo or bison of our western prairies. The buffalo or bison of our country are generally about as large as our domestic neat cattle, and the long, shaggy, woolly hair which covers their head, neck, and shoulders, gives them a formidable appearance, at a distance some- thing like the lion. In many particulars they resemble our horned cattle ; are cloven footed, chew the cud, and select the same kind of food. Their flesh is in appearance and taste much like beef, but of superior flavor, and remark- ably easy of digestion. Their heads are formed like the ox, perhaps a little more round and broad, and when running, 19 210 ANIMALS. they carry them rather low. Their horns, ears and eyes, as seen through their shaggy hair, appear small, and cleared from their covering, they are not large. Their legs and feet are small and trim, the fore legs covered with the long hair of the shoulders as low down as the knee. Though their figure is clumsy in appearance, yet they run swiftly and for a long time without much slackening their speed ; and up steep hills or mountains they more than equal the best horses. They unite in herds, and when feeding, scat- ter over a large space, but when fleeing from danger, they collect into dense columns, and having once laid their course, they are not easily diverted from it, whatever may oppose. Their power of scent is great, and they perceive the hunter when he is on the windward side, at a great distance, and the alarm is taken, and when any of them manifest fear, they are thrown into confusion, until some of the cows, from the instinct of fear, take the lead to flee from the pursuer, and then all follow at the top of their speed. So far are they from being a fierce and revengeful animal, they are very shy and timid • and in no case did I see them offer to make an attack, but in self defense when wounded and closely pursued, and then they always sought the first op- portunity to escape. When they run they lean alternately from one side to the other. The herds are composed pro- miscuously of bulls and cows, except some of the old bulls, which are often found by themselves in the rear or in ad- vance of the main bands. Sometimes an old blind one is seen alone from all others ; and it was amusing to see their consternation when they apprehend the approach of danger. The natural instincts of fear and prudence lead them to fly alternately in every possible direction for safety. I was pleased to find our most thoughtless young men respect ANIMALS. 211 their age and pity their calamity ; for in no instance did I see any abuse offered them. They are fond of rolling upon the ground like horses, which is not practiced by our do- mestic cattle. This is so much their diversion, that large places are found without grass and considerably excavated. The use of their skins for robes, and the woolly fur, with which they are covered, are so universally known, that a description is entirely unnecessary. Another peculiarity which belongs to them is, that they never raise their voice above a low bellow ; in no instance were we disturbed by their lowing, even when surrounded by thousands, and in one of our encampments, it was supposed there were five thousand near. It has been said they do not visit any of the districts formed of primitive rocks. This is said with- out reason, for I saw them as frequently in those districts, in proportion to their extent, as where other formations ex- isted. It is also said as they recede from the east they are extending west. This is also incorrect ; for, as I have be- fore said, their limits are becoming more and more circum- scribed. And if they should continue to diminish for twenty years to come, as they have during the last twenty, they will become almost extinct. 212 FISH. CHAPTER XV. Fish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — ornithology — dendro- logy — shrubbery — nutritive roots — geography — mountains — valleys — plains — forests — rivers — soil — seasons. I pass to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of the Columbia. Their number is great, but their variety is small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock cod, and trout are all that I shall mention. The sturgeon of good quality and in large numbers, commence ascending the rivers in the fore part of April, and furnish food to the suffering Indians. I say suffering, for before the opening of the spring, their stock of provisions are consumed, and they are seen search- ing for roots and any thing which will sustain life ; and though I do not feel authorized to say what others have said, that in the latter part of the winter and fore part of spring, they die with starvation in great numbers, yet they are brought to extreme want, and look forward to the time when the sturgeon shall come into the river with great solicitude. A small fish, like the anchovy, about six inches long, very^ fat and well flavored, come into the river in great numbers about the same time or a little before the sturgeon. The Indians obtain large quantities of oil from them, by putting them into a netting strainer and exposing them to gentle heat. The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year. They are very fine and easily caught. FISH. 213 The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well ascertained that there are not less than six different species of the true salmon that ascend these waters, commencing about the twentieth of April. Their muscular power is ex- ceedingly great, which is manifested in passing the falls and rapids, which would seem insuperable. They are never known to return, but are constantly pressing their way up- wards, so that it is not uncommon to find them in the small branches of the rivers near the very sources. We found them in September near the Rocky Mountains, where they are said to be as late as November and December. I saw some with parts of their heads worn to the bone and the skin worn from various parts of their bodies, which appears to be the result of efforts to ascend until they perish. Late in the season, great numbers are found dead, furnishing food for crows, and even Indians ; for I have seen them drive away the crows and appropriate the remnants to themselves. When the salmon become much emaciated, the flesh loses its rich redness, and it is seen in the skin, which gives the fish a beautiful appearance; but when in this state it is hardly edible. It is worthy of notice, that the salmon has its preferences of water, selecting some branches of the Co- lumbia river and passing by others; and those taken in some of the tributary streams are far better than those taken in others. While those which ascend the rivers never return, the young are seen in September descending on their way to the ocean, in immense numbers. It is believed these re- turn the fourth year after their descent ; but this may be only conjecture. It is difficult to estimate how many sal- mon might be taken in these rivers, if proper measures were pursued; and also what would be the results upon the num- 19 * 214 FISHERY. bers which would continue to enter and ascend. I think without doubt a plan might be devised and adopted to carry on a salmon fishery in this river to good advantage and profit. The experiment Was made by a company from the United States, which failed, for it contained the elements of its own overthrow. The company sent out large quantities of rum, probably calculating on the fact that the Indians are fond of ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this appetite, they should enlist them in their favor, and as Indians will do any- thing for rum, they would catch and sell the fish to them. Whatever the object of the company might have been in sending and dealing out so much rum, the Indians were high- ly pleased with receiving it in pay for their salmon. But when they had thus obtained it they would become intoxi- cated and disqualified for labor, and more time was wasted in drunkenness, than employed in fishing. Besides, the sal- mon were often suffered to lie in the hot sun until they were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. The result was, that the company, as I was informed, obtained only about four hundred barrels of salmon, and made a losing voyage ; and the superintendent of Fort Vancouver told me, that when the company abandoned their business, they stored many barrels of rum at his fort. My information was not wholly derived from those who had been in the employment of that company, and gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, but in part from the Indians, who often spoke to me upon the subject by way of praise. They would say, “dose, Mas him ” signifying, good, plenty of rum. The birds of Oregon are not as numerous as those which inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the woods and groves are more widely dispersed. But they ORNITHOLOGY. 215 are sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist profita- bly, for a great length of time in collecting and preserving specimens. This region is particularly interesting from the fact, that in this as in other departments of natural science, it has hitherto been an unexplored field — no com- petent scientific person having visited this country to clas- sify the different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Townsend, of Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two years in ex- amining scientifically this field, and will probably give to the public the result of his labors. I am indebted to him for assistance in the following summary. The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, and are seen only a part of the year ; there are many, however, that reside here during the whole year. Among these are the majestic white-headed eagle, and the golden eagle, and three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the mag- pie, and thousands of ravens and crows ; several species of small sparrows, and two or three species of grouse, the common partridge of the United States, and the dusky grouse of the Rocky Mountains ; and also an interesting species of the dipper or water ousel. The habits of this bird are very curious and peculiar, particularly that of de- scending to the bottom of ponds and swiftly running streams, and there in search of small shell-fish, remaining under water, for at least two minutes, during which time it will course about upon the pebbly bottom, with as much appa- rent ease and satisfaction, as if upon dry land. The red- winged black-bird and the robin continue through the year. The notes of the latter are heard even in the chill of the winter, though in feeble strains. As the autumn advances, the number of swans, geese, and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these wa- 216 ORNITHOLOGY. ter fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the Co- lumbia river, and there are other species of the same genus, seen about the shores of the Cape, which do not ascend the rivers. Among these is the violet green cormorant, the most splendid of all the known species of cormorants. The loon, or great northern diver, is very plentiful in this river. Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in great numbers, visit this river to seek shelter from the violent storms which agitate the ocean during the winter. The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers, brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain for different periods of time ; many of them continue only a few weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidification. There are, however, great numbers that remain through the summer, and their delightful songs add to the charms of a fine morning of April and May. Among these are hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice and nuthatches. Of the warblers there are eleven species, six of which are new ; the other five are common to the States. Several of the species are but transient visitors, but most of them re- main through the season. Of the wrens there are six spe- cies ; three of the titmice, and two of the nuthatches. And in the train follow the thrushes, of which there are seven species, two of which are new ; of these Wilson’s thrush is pre-eminent in sweetness of song. The fly catchers num- ber eight species, three of which are new ; and there are thirteen species of the finches, three of which are new. These are a large and musical band, among which are several of the finest songsters known in the world. In no instance do we find more richness and delicacy of plumage, with the most sweet melody of voice, than in a new species of large bullfinch, which visits this section of country in the DENDROLOGY. 217 spring. If these were domesticated, they would form a most valuable addition to any aviary. There are eight species of woodpeckers, four of which are new ; and of the swallow tribe there are five species, one of which is new, and the most beautiful of the family, characterized by a splendid changeable green plumage on the head and back, while the other parts are purple and white. About the middle of March, the splendid little Nootka humming bird makes his appearance, coming so suddenly that you won- der from whence he came, as the fact of his performing a long migration of weeks, with his delicate little wings, over a cold and flowerless country, or across the sea, seems in- credible. The neck of this beautiful bird presents fine va- riations of color; now it is ruby red, with a metallic lustre ; turn it, and the tints vary from purple to violet and crimson, according as the light falls upon it. I pass over the mention of many genera, and still more numerous species of the different birds of this region, as it is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only to give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed of the ornithological treasures of this interesting country. Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub- bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large. The three kinds are the red, yellow and white. They dif- fer not only in the color of the wood, but also in their foli- age. The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the branchlets in the same form as those found in the United States ; the yellow only on the upper side, or the upper half of the twigs ; the white is oppositely pinnated. The 218 DENDROLOGY. balsam is alike in the three different species, found in blis- ters upon the bark in the same form as in other countries. White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor- way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not below the Cascades. The new species, which I have called the elastic pine, is far the most numerous, but I did not see any of these as far west as Walla Walla. The cedar is the common species, grows very large and tall, and is the best of the forest trees for various mechani- cal uses. The yew is also found among the evergreens, though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in small sec- tions of the country. The white oak of good quality, and often large, is a common tree of the forest, and also the black, rough-barked oak grows in some of the mountainous parts. In an excursion down the rich plains below Fort Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade trees upon a well cultivated farm, I measured a white oak, which was eight feet in diameter, continued large about thirty feet high, and then branched out immensely wide, under which Mr. T. and myself, with our horses, found an excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two kinds of ash, the common white ash and the broad leafed.. The latter is very hard. There is also alder, which I have mentioned as growing very large, and on dry ground as well as on that which is low and swampy. There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, the cotton and balm. The first is common in various parts of the United States, and is well known ; the second common- ly called cotton- wood, skirting rivers and streams as in the western States ; the third is the Populus balsamifera , often SHRUBBERY. 219 called the balm of Gilead. Its distinguishing properties are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam in a glutinous state found in the small twigs, but mostly in the buds. This last species in some places spreads over large sections of bottom- land, where the soil is uncommonly good. White maple is found, but only in small quantities. Willows of various species are common in all parts of the country. There is a tree in the lower country which grows much in the form of the laurel or bay tree, but much larger, — the bark is smooth and of a red bay color, its leaves are ovate. It has been called the strawberry tree, but I do not know with what propriety. There are no walnut or hickory trees west of the great mountains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard or sugar maple, or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry, cucumber, white wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except a species of black birch which grows small ; nor are there any of the species of locusts, hackberry, or buckeye. I might lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above observations are sufficient to give a general view of the for- ests trees of the country. The variety of shrubbery and plants is so numerous, that their examination would employ the botanist many months. I shall only sketch a few of those which are scattered over the prairies and through the forests. Among these are sev- eral varieties of the thorn-bush, many of which are large and fruitful. Those bearing the red apple, present, when they are ripe, a very beautiful appearance. There is one species peculiar to the country west of the mountains, the fruit of which is black and of a delightfully sweet taste, but not gen- erally dispersed through the country. It is principally na- tive about the Blue Mountains, the Walla Walla and Um- matilla rivers. The choke cherry is common to all parts of 220 PLANTS. the country, and its fruit is very grateful where animal food is principally depended upon for subsistence. The salalber- rv is a sweet and pleasant fruit, of a dark purple color, oblong, and about the bigness of a grape. The serviceberry is about the size of a small thorn apple, black when fully ripe, and pleasantly sweet like the whortleberry ; and the pambina is a bush cranberry. The varieties of the gooseberry are many, — the common prickly, which grows very large on a thorny bush, — the small white, which is smooth and very sweet, — the large smooth purple, and the smooth yellow, which are also of a fine flavor. All of these attain to a good maturity, and those growing on the prairies are very superior. There are three varieties of the currant, the pale red, the yellow, which is well tasted, and the black. Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not so prolific and desirable as those which grow under the hand of culti- vation. The beautiful shrub Symphoria racemosa , called the snowberry, which is found in some of our gardens, grows here wild and in great abundance. Besides the common raspberries, there is a new species which grows in the forests, the berry of which is three times as large as the common, is a very delicate rich yellow, but the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new species of sweet elder which I have already described. The trailing honeysuckle is among the first ornaments of nature. The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some small sections red clover is found, differing, however, from the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and moun- tainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their fla- vor more delicious than any I have tasted in other countries. GEOGRAPHY. 221 Wild flax I have mentioned and described on page 90. Sun-flowers are common, but do not grow large ; also a species of broom-corn, is found in many places of the bot- tom-lands of the Columbia and other streams. To these may be added a wild grain somewhat resembling barley, or rye. Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wappa- too and the cammas. The wappatoo, is the common sagit - taria , or arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the Columbia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and becomes soft by roasting, forming a nourishing and agreea- ble food, is much used by the Indians, and is an article of trade. It grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes which are covered with water. The Indian women wade in search of this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it with their feet, when it rises to the surface of the water and is secured. The cammas, a tunicated root, in the form of an onion, is of great importance to the Indians and grows in moist, rich ground. It is roasted, pounded, and made into loaves like bread, and has a taste resembling licorice. The cowish, or biscuit root, grows on dry land, somewhat larger than a walnut, tastes like the sweet potato, is prepared in the same manner for food as the cammas, and is a tolerable substi- tute for bread. To these may be added the racine amere , or bitter root, which grows on dry ground, is fusiform, and though not pleasant to the taste, is very conducive to health ; also the common onion, and another characterized by its beautiful red flower, which often grows upon patches of volcanic scoria where no other vegetation is seen. Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed ac- count of its geography may with propriety be given here. 20 222 MOUNTAINS. In comparing the country west with that east of the moun- tains, especially the great valley of the Mississippi, we are impressed very powerfully with the strong contrast which their distinguishing features present. The valley of the Mississippi may be called the garden of the world — every part abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We see no barren or rocky wastes, no extended swamps or marshes — no frozen mountains. Destitute of prominent land-marks to catch the eye of the traveler, he sees in the wide distance before him only the almost horizontal lines of level or roll- ing meadow. No one points him to the peaks of dim moun- tains and tells him that the range divides two sister states, or separates two noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting on the shoulders of lofty Butes and blending their neutral tint with the hazy blue of the landscape before him — nor Tetons rearing their heads into the region of perpetual snow — and day after day he pursues his journey without 'anything to create in his bosom emotions of the grand, and sublime, unless it be the vastness of the expanse. Beyond the Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains and widely extended prairies, rich valleys and barren plains ; and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls, present a great diversity of prospect. The whole country is so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from which a person cannot see some of the immense ranges which intersect its different parts. On an elevation a short dis- tance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical mountains, from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, whose tops are cov- ered with perpetual snow, may be seen rising in the sur- rounding valley. There are three general ranges, west of the rocky chain of mountains, running in northern and VALLEYS— PLAINS. 223 southern directions. The first above the Falls of the Co- lumbia river ; the second at and below the Cascades ; the third towards and along the shores of the Pacific. From each of these, branches extend in different directions. Be- sides these there are others which are large and high, such as the Blue Mountains south of Walla Walla — the Salmon river mountains between Salmon and the Cooscootske rivers ; and also in the regions of Okan- agan and Colvile. Between these mountains are wide-spread valleys and plains. The largest and most fertile valley is included be- tween Deer island on the west, to within twelve miles of the Cascades, and is about fifty-five miles wide, and extend- ing north and south to a greater extent than I had the means of definitely ascertaining ; probably from Pugets sound on the north, to the Umbiqua river on the south. The Willa- mette river and a section of the Columbia are included in this valley. The valley south of the Walla Walla, called the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. To these may be added Pierre’s Hole and adjacent country ; also Racine Amere, east of the Salmon river mountains. On Mill river, which unites with the Columbia at Colvile, from the south, through a valley of more than fifty miles, there are rich bottom lands. While these are open and ready for cultivation, the hills on both sides of the valley are cov- ered with woods. Other fertile sections of considerable magnitude are dispersed over different parts of the country. To these may be subjoined extensive plains, most of which are prairies well covered with grass. The whole region of country west of Salmon river mountains, the Spokein woods, Okanagan, and quite to the range of mountains which cross the Columbia at the Falls, is a vast prairie 224 FORESTS RIVERS. - covered with grass, and the soil is generally good. Another large plain, which is said to be very barren, lies off to the south-west of Lewis’ or Snake river, including the Sho- shones’ country ; and travelers who have passed through have pronounced the interior of America a great barren desert ; but this is drawing a conclusion far too broad from premises so limited. So far as I have had opportunity for observation, I should feel warranted in saying, that while some parts of Oregon are barren, large portions are well adapted to grazing ; and others, though less extensive, to both tillage and grazing. Upon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a large proportion of the country west of the mountains is destitute, while some parts are well supplied. I have al- ready mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls of the Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and densely in many parts, especially near the ocean. The mountains north of the Salmon river, and the country about the Spokein river, and so on still farther north, are well furnished with forests, and in some other sections there are partial supplies. The country in general is well watered, being intersected with lakes, and many large rivers and tributary streams. This might be inferred from the fact that there are so many mountains, upon the sides and at the bases of which are mul- titudes of the finest springs. No country furnishes water more pure and of such crystal clearness. As the spring and summer heat commences, the snows of the mountains melt, and begin to swell the rivers in the beginning of May, and the freshet continues to increase until June, when it is the greatest, and overflows large sections of the low lands of the valleys, which have the appearance of inland seas. RIVERS. 225 While the rivers of this country are numerous, and several of them are large, yet inland navigation will be attended with difficulties, not only from the many falls and rapids, but from the labor and expense necessary to construct ca- nals through the immensely hard basaltic rock formation. The Columbia has three large falls in the distance of seven hundred miles ; the Cascades, one hundred and thirty miles from the ocean at the head of tide water ; the Falls of the Columbia, forty miles above the Cascades ; and the Kettle Falls, five hundred and thirty miles above the Falls of the Columbia. There are many rapids, but the Nine-mile Ra- pids, thirty miles above Walla Walla, are the most embar- rassing. The other rivers are still more obstructed with falls and rapids, except the Willamette, which has only one fall at the head of its tide water, thirty miles above its junction with the Columbia. The obstruction to a canal around this, is far less than around the above named falls ; and when constructed, the navigation may be extended fifty miles farther into the country. While such is the condition of the country in respect to its inter- nal navigation and commerce, the ingenuity of man in our day, has provided something which can be most advanta- geously applied as a remedy. I mean rail-roads. In making observations, with reference to this very subject, I was interested to see the wisdom and benevolence of the Creator, in providing passes through those stupen- dous ranges of mountains, running generally from north to south, and I thought how easily the whole territory might be traversed in this way ; and the large pentag- onal basaltic columns are ready at hand to facilitate the work. No country in the world furnishes better opportunities for water power to be applied to manufac- 20 * 226 THE SEASONS. turing purposes ; every river and stream having falls, cas- cades and rapids. The seasons. These are divided into two, the rainy in the winter, commencing in November and terminating in May ; the dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute of rain, and during which time the atmosphere is remarkably serene ; the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the sun, and the season is most delightful. The climate is far more temperate and warm west of the Rocky Mountains, than east in the same latitude, there being at least ten degrees difference of latitude, as may be seen by the subjoined me- teorological table. There were only three days in the whole winter of my residence in the country, that the ther- mometer sunk as low as 22° Fahrenheit, at Fort Vancou- ver ; and there were only two mornings in the whole month of March when white frost was seen. Snow does not fall deep excepting upon the mountains ; in the valleys it rarely continues more than a few days, or at the farthest only a few weeks ; and by the latter part of February or the first of March, ploughing and sowing is commenced. And not only is the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is also healthy, and there are scarcely any prevailing diseases, except the fever and ague in the lower country, which, as has been stated, commenced in 1829 ; and the ophthalmy, - which is very general among the Indians of the plains. It is worthy of notice, that thunder and lightning are seldom witnessed west of the mountains, but in the val- ley of the Mississippi, they are very frequent and unu- sually heavy. The entire destitution of rain, showers and dew, during summer, does not exclude fertility ; nor is it peculiar to this country, for the same is true of the whole Pacific coast THE SEASONS. 227 west of the Andes, and also of the Sandwich and Society Islands — yet by various methods of irrigation the soil is rendered productive. In the country which I am descri- bing, the winter being so mild, the grain sown in the fall and spring advances beyond injury before the drouth be- comes severe, and the grass attains its growth and dries into hay upon the ground ; and there being no moisture to de- compose it, retains its nutritive properties. 228 INDIANS OF THE PLAINS, CHAPTER XVI. Character and condition of the Indians — Indians of the plains — their persons — dress — wealth — habits — physical character— manufactures — their religion — wars — vices — moral disposition— superstitions — medicine men. As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains, their numbers, and the prospects of establishing the gospel among them, it will not only be proper but im- portant to give a full and connected description of them in these respects. In doing this, while I have availed myself of information collected from men of intelligence and in- tegrity, I have confined my statements to those things which have been corroborated by, or came under my own obser- vations • feeling it a duty to avoid the many fabulous ac- counts which have been given of Indian character and cus- toms. Romance may please and excite admiration, fiction may charm, but only truth can instruct. I will first describe the Indians of the plains. These, live in the upper country from the Falls of the Columbia to the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairie land. The principal tribes are the Nez Perees, Cay uses, Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, Flatheads, Cceur d’Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okanagans, and Carriers. These do not include probably more than one half of those east of the Falls, but of others I have ob- COSTUME. 229 tained but little definite knowledge. They all resemble each other in general characteristics. In their persons the men are tall, the women are of common stature, and both are well formed. While there is a strong natural as well as moral resemblance among all Indians, the complexion of these is a little fairer than other Indians. Their hair and eyes are black, their cheek bones high, and very frequent- ly they have aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ankles, are small and well formed ; and their movements are easy, if not graceful. They wear their hair long, part it upon their forehead, and let it hang in tresses on each side, or down behind. There is a great resemblance in the dress of different tribes, which generally consist of a shirt, worn over long, close leggins, with moccasons for the feet. These are of dressed leather made of the skins of deer, antelope, mountain goat and sheep ; and over these they wear a blanket or buffalo robe. The borders of their garments are ornamented with long fringes. They are fond of ornaments, and their heads and garments are decorated with feathers, beads, buttons, and porcupine quills ; these last are colored red, yellow, blue, and black, and worked with great skill and variety of design. They appear to have less of the propensity to adorn themselves with painting, than the Indians east of the moun- tains ; but not unfrequently vermilion, mixed with red clay, is used not only upon their faces, but upon their hair. The dress of the women does not vary much from that of the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt, they have what we may call a frock coming down to the ankles. Many of them wear a large cape made of dressed skins, often highly ornamented with large oblong beads of blue, red, purple, and white, arranged in curved lines covering 230 THEIR WEALTH. the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when clothed in their clean, white dresses of antelope skins, with their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, and mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their or- naments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appearance that would not lose in comparison with equestrian ladies of the east. Their horses are not less finely caparisoned with blue and scarlet trimmings about their heads, breasts, and loins, hung with little brass bells. While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all hea- then, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible than others, and far more neat than those of the lower country towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood that there are not those who are poor, suffering from the want of food and clothing. Their wealth consists in their horses, and their conse- quence depends in a great degree upon the number they possess, some owning several hundreds ; and that family is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man, woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling from place to place ; and also to carry all their effects. In these respects they are far better supplied than any tribes I saw east of the mountains. While their horses are their - wealth, they derive but little from them for the support of themselves and families ; for they do not employ them to cultivate the earth ; and the market for them is so low, that they command but a small price. A good horse will not sell for more than enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small articles of merchandize. For subsistence, they necessarily depend upon hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most HABITS. 231 of their food is roasted, and they excel in roasting fish. The process is to build a small fire in the centre of their lodge, to fix the fish upon a stick two or three feet long, and place one end in the ground so as to bring the fish partly over the fire, and then by a slow process it is most thoroughly roast- ed without scorching, or scarcely changing the color. The principal art consists in taking time, and our best cooks might improve by following their mode. The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a gen- eral remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to con- firm its truth among the Indians of the plains ; for I rarely saw any of these Indians not engaged in some object of pursuit; not the most productive perhaps, but such as enlist- ed their attention. While I believe that the resemblance, both physical and moral, of all the different nations and tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of the conti- nent of America, is greater than is seen in any people of any other country of equal extent, yet if it is true, that as a general fact, “they are morose and gloomy in their coun- tenances ; sullen, or bacchanalian in their dispositions ; that they are rarely so joyful as to laugh unless excited by ar- dent spirits ; that they are taciturn and never indulge in mirth ; that they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of social affections ; that in proud disdain they turn away from whatever would excite curiosity ; that no common mo- tives or endearments excite them to action ; 75 if these things are true, then the Indians in Oregon are an exception to the general fact. In all the above named particulars, I saw no special difference between them and other nations. As a part of the human family, they have the same natural pro- pensities and the same social affections. They are cheer- ful and often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate ; and anx- 232 MANUFACTURES. ious to receive instruction in whatever may conduce to their happiness here or hereafter. It is worse than idle to speak of “ physical insensibility inwrought into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their bodies approximate to the in- sensibility of horses’ hoofs.” The influence of this kind of remark is to produce, in the bosoms of all who read them, the same insensibility that is charged upon the na- tive character of the Indians. To represent their charac- ters and their restoration to the common feelings of hu- manity so hopeless, is to steel the heart of even Christian- ity itself, if it were possible, against all sympathy, and to paralize all exertions and effort to save them from the two- fold destruction to which they doom them, temporal and eternal. Is this the reason that Christians are sitting in such supineness over their condition, and that the heart- thrilling appeals for teachers to enlighten them are disre- garded ? Is this the reason, that while the philanthropy of the United States’ citizens towards them is so widely bla- zoned, those who are sent to teach them the arts of civilized life, are sitting quiet on the borders in govermental pay, while the Indians are roaming still over the prairies in search of uncertain and precarious game ? I forbear to tell the whole story. They have but few manufactures, and those are the most . plain and simple, not extending much beyond dressing the skins of animals, and making them into clothing ; making bows and arrows and some few articles of furniture. In dressing skins they never make any use of bark or tannin. Their process is to remove the hair and flesh from the skins by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, or when it can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop, and then besmearing them with the brains of some animal, they smoke them MANUFACTURES. 233 thoroughly and rub them until they are soft ; and after this bleach them with pure white clay. Their mode of smoking them is to excavate a small place in the ground, about a foot deep, and over this to construct a fixture in the form of a lodge, a few feet wide at the base and brought to a point at the top. Then they build a small fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon the fratne work, so as to make the enclosure almost smoke tight. The process occupies about one day. Their mode of dressing buffalo robes is different. They stretch the skin upon the ground, flesh side up, fastening it down with pins around the border, and then with an instrument formed somewhat like a coop- er’s adz, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of iron, brought to a blunt edge like the currier’s knife, they clear from it all remaining flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same instrument, they work upon it with a pounding, hewing stroke, until they have brought it to a suitable thickness and rendered it soft and white, as our buffalo robes are when brought into market. It is a work of great labor, and is performed by the women. We little think how much toil it costs a woman to prepare one of these robes, and then how little is paid for it by the pur- chaser ; a pound of tobacco or a bunch of beads, is as much as the Indian generally receives. Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength- ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side, and the string is made of the same substance. Their ar- rows are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with a sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with a feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing execution, and they manage them with great dexterity. 21 234 MANUFACTURES. Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the horns of buffalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and more solid, from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep. They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo horns ; also various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship. Their saddles are rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on the back part ; generally sitting uneasily upon the horse’s back. Their bridles consist of a rope well made of the hair, or shag of the buffalo, eight or ten feet long, fastened in the centre to the under jaw of the horse, and the ends are brought over the neck for reins. The lasso, which is used for catching horses and some kinds of wild animals, is a long rope with a large noose at one end, and the other end is held firmly in the hand ; the whole is coiled, and when the distance permits it to be thrown, it is usually so dexterously done, as to bring the noose over the animal’s head. When mounted, they often have a long leather thong, or a rope, fastened upon the horse’s neck, which trails upon the ground, and is frequently suffered to remain when the horse is turned loose, for the convenience of more easily catching him again. Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the traders, were, with great labor and patience, made with hatchets of stone ; and even now, cost them no small effort. A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or two good horses. Their fishing nets are another article which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in every particular like our scoop nets* RELIGION BELIEF. 235 As regards the religion of the Indians, I have already stated that they believe in one God, in the immortality of the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But while these are the prominent points of their belief, definite ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely limited, both in number and in comprehensiveness. As much as this, however, appears to be true. They believe in one Great Spirit, who has created all things, governs all impor- tant events, who is the author of all good, and the only ob- ject of religious homage. They believe he may be dis- pleased with them for their bad conduct, and in his dis- pleasure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in an evil spirit, whom they call cinim keneki meohot cinmo - cimo ; that is, the black chief below, who is the author of all the evils which befall them, undeserved as a punish- ment from the Great Spirit above. They believe that the soul enters the future world with a similar form, and in circumstances like those under which it existed in this life. They believe that in a future state, the happiness of the good consists in an abundance and enjoyment of those things which they value here, that their present sources of happiness will be carried to perfection ; and that the pun- ishment of the bad will consist in entire exclusion from every source of happiness, and in finding all causes of mis- ery here, greatly multiplied hereafter. Thus their ideas of future happiness and misery are found to vary according to their different situations and employments in life. It is difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain any thing of their religious belief beyond these general notions. The number of words and terms in their language expressive of abstract and spiritual ideas, is very small, so that those who wish to instruct them in these subjects, are compelled to do it by 23 6 WAR. means of illustrations and circumlocutions, and the intro- duction of words from foreign languages. Besides, con- scious of their ignorance, they are, for the most part, un- willing to expose it, by revealing the little knowledge which they possess. Indeed, wherever a feeling of ignorance upon any subject prevails, we find that all endeavors to elicit the true amount of knowledge, are repelled or evaded. Even men of talents, with us, who converse fluently upon most subjects, are often silent when religious topics are intro- duced. I am far from believing the many long and strange tra- ditions, with which we are often entertained. It is more than probable, that they are in most instances the gratui- tous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunters to that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to sub- jects of this description. The Indians themselves would often be as much surprised at the rehearsal of these tradi- tions, as those are for whose amusement they are fabricated. My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the Hud- son Bay Company, w 7 ho have long been resident in the In- dian country, and have become extensively acquainted with their languages. The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have . no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to them, and do not enter into battle except in self-defense, and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east border of the Rocky Mountains, and who are constantly roving about in war parties, on both sides, in quest of plun- der. When the Indians on the west meet with any of these parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if compelled WAR VICES. 237 to fight, they show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and rush upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity ; and it is said that one Nez Perce, or Flathead warrior, is a match for three Blaekfeet. The only advantage which the latter have over the former consists in their numbers, there being more than twenty thousand of the Blaekfeet Indians. When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the women take charge of them, while every man seizes his weapons of war, whatever they may be, mounts his horse, and waits firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they rush forward to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat upon their horses as they draw near, and fire, and wheel, and reload, and again rush full speed to the second encoun- ter. This is continued until victory is decided, which is as often by the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men. Very frequently, when the Blaekfeet see white men with the Nez Perces or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though far superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can furnish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases they will raise a white flag, and come in to smoke the pipe of peace. The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an occasion, will say “ we accept your offer to smoke the pipe of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart is war, and your hand blood, but we love peace. You give us the pipe, but blood always follows . 55 But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion which they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much prac- ticed in running horses, and foot races, by men, women and children, and they have games of chance played with sticks or bones. When I told the Nez Perces that gambling is 21 * 233 GOOD MORALS. wrong, and a violation of the tenth commandment ; for it is coveting the property of another, and taking it without an equivalent, as much as stealing ; they said they did not know it before, but now they know God forbids it they will do so no more. Theft is generally supposed to be inbred in the Indians, but I was pleased to discover that the tribes of the plains held it in abhorrence, and would punish it severe- ly should it occur. The Shoshones are said to be addicted to this habit in some degree. Drunkenness is a stranger vice among these nations, their remove from the sources of this evil being their security. It is not to be supposed that their virtue, any more than that of other tribes, would be invul- nerable if exposed to temptation, for this habit, like their proverbial love for finery and ornament, is acquired by the facilities for indulgence which are thrown in their way. The trader goes far into the interior with his packs of beads, buttons, paints, &c., to exchange for furs, and teach- es this ignorant people to set the same value on his articles, that theirs are intrinsically worth — but who supposes that they would not know the comparative worth of more useful goods, if they were offered them ?* The moral disposition of these Indians is very commend- able, certainly as much as that of any people that can be named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to each other. While among them I saw no contentions, and heard no angry words from one to another. They manifest an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may obey and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace pre- vail in all their domestic concerns. But when they have * An attempt was made not long since, by an United States citizen, to construct a distillery on the Willamette river, but for want of suit- able materials he failed in his object. SUPERSTITIONS. 239 any difficult subject, which they know not how to dispose of, they go to their chiefs, and if it involves any important prin- ciple, the chiefs bring the case to any white man, who may be among them, to obtain his opinion, which is generally fol- lowed. They are scrupulously honest in all their dealings, and lying is scarcely known. They say they fear to sin against the Great Spirit, and therefore, have but one heart, and their tongue is straight and not forked. And so cor- rectly does the law written upon their hearts accord with the written law of God, that every infraction of the seventh command of the decalogue is punished with severity. I have witnessed but few things among them indicative of superstition. The practice of the Shoshones of cutting them- selves for the dead, I have already mentioned. The Carri- ers burn their dead. When a person dies, all the relations must be assembled, which often occupies many days ; and if a husband is deceased, the wife must lay her head upon the bosom of her husband every night, to show her affection for him ; and when the funeral pile is constructed, the corpse laid upon it, and the fire enkindled, during the burning of the body, she must frequently put her hands through the flame and lay them upon his bosom, to show her continued affection. Their first chief lost his wife. He was asked if he would show the affection for her, which was required of others. He thought on account of his chieftainship he might be excused. The people were urgent, and he consented, but so great was the pain which he endured, that he was willing the practice should be ameliorated, and it is hoped it will soon be abolished. They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for the white man’s Friday, they have a portentous howling of a large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. M they hear 240 MEDICINE MEN. this when traveling, sadness is at once visible in their countenances, for it is considered as foreboding some ca- lamity near. Among their superstitions may be classed their mode of curing diseases. They have what are called medicine* men, who make no pretensions to any knowledge of diseases or skill in medicine ; but they have a bag in which is deposited various relics. The patient is stretched upon the ground ; a number of persons encircle him and sing the medicine song. The medicine man enters the circle and commences his magical incantations by holding the medicine bag over him, which is to operate as a charm ; he uses many ges- tures, grimaces, and inarticulate sounds ; pats or kneads the patient with his hands, beginning very softly, and grad- ually increasing to a considerable degree of severity ; blows into his ears, and practices other like ceremonies. By this process the patient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a free perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. When the friction has been sufficiently employed, the imagination well wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly im- parted its virtues, the medicine man presents some trifling article, such as a small bone, a stick, or pebble, and says he has taken it from the body of the patient, and that it was the cause of the disease ; or he gives a heavy puff upward, and says the disease has come out of the patient and gone upward, and then asks him if he does not feel better. The patient says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being reliev- ed from the process. And often the relief is permanent ; for the friction may have been beneficial, and the imagination often performs wonders. The medicine man stands respon- * The word medicine , as used by Indians, signifies any thing mys- terious. STEAM BATH. 241 sible for the life of his patient, and if the patient dies, not unfrequently his own life is taken by some of the relatives of the deceased. He makes a heavy charge for his servi- ces, often a horse, and why should he not ? for who in such cases would endanger his life without being well paid ? In some parts of the country, but more especially in the lower country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it would be supposed this would deter others from entering into the pro- fession. But the love of fame and wealth is powerful among heathen as well as among civilized communities. Undoubt- edly the medicine men, when they begin their profession, know that they are practicing deception, but by habitual deceit, by the confidence others place in their skill, and by the effects produced through the medium of the imagination, they finally believe in the efficacy of their own enchantments, and that they are consequential men. I have seen no “ root doctors 55 in any tribe east or west of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have had an opportunity of ascertaining, have but few diseases, and for the cure of these, they use but little medicine * nor do they profess to have any knowledge of remedies beyond a few specifics. The warm bath is used both by sick and healthy persons in the following manner. They construct a steam bath in the form of an oblong oven, two or three feet high, about six feet long, made of willow branches, each end inserted into the ground, forming an arch, which is covered with grass and mud, or more generally with skins. In this they place a number of hot stones, upon which they pour water. The person who is to go through the process, enters and is enclosed nearly air tight, and remains until a very profuse perspiration is produced, and often until nearly suffocated. 242 MUSIC. He then comes out and plunges at once into cold water, and no regard is paid to the season of the year, whether summer or winter. They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining an education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sciences. In things with which they are conversant, such as appertain to hunting, war, and their limited domestic concerns, they manifest observation, skill, and intellect ; but beyond these their knowledge is very limited. They necessarily compute by numbers, but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is an interesting fact, that of four different languages, which I examined, the mode of counting is by tens. The Klicatat nation count with different words up to ten, Lah’s, one ; neep’t , two * and so to ten ; then they add wap- pena to lah’s ; as laWs wappena , eleven ; neepH wappena , twelve ; neeph tit, twenty ; and in like manner to one hun- dred, and so on to a thousand by hundreds. In the Nez Perce language, nox is one, lapeet , two, metait, three, &c. After ten they repeat the radical numbers with the addition, tit , asnoxtit, eleven ; laaptit , twenty ; metaptit, thirty. This may be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the other two proceed in the same manner. They count their years by snows ; as, maika elaix , snows six, that is, six years ; and months by moons, and days by sleeps ; pinemeek pe-e-lep, sleeps four, (four days.) It is not common that they know their exact age ; nor are they very accurate in chronology. They are very fond of singing, and generally have flexi- ble and sweet-toned voices. Most of their singing is with- out words, excepting upon some special occasions. They use hi, ah, in constant repetition, as we use fa, sol, la ; and instead of several different parts harmonizing, they only MUSIC. 243 take eighths, one above another, never exceeding three. They are conscious of the inferiority of their tunes to ours, and wished to be instructed in this department of knowledge. In this land of moral desolations, it was cheering to hear even the most simple strains of melody and harmony. 244 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. CHAPTER XVII. The Indians of the lower country. The Indians of the lower country are those between the shores of the Pacific and the Falls of the Columbia river, and from Pugets Sound to upper California. The principal nations are the Chenooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs, and the Umbaquas. These nations are divided into a great number of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, yet each nation has its principal chief, who is head over all the several tribes, and has a general superintending control. Their persons are rather below a middle stature, and not generally as well formed as the Indians of the plains or up- per country. The women are uncouth, and from a com- bination of causes appear old at an early age. Among these causes the habit of painting, in which they indulge, destroys the smooth and healthy appearance of the skin. These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both phys- ical and moral, than those of the upper country. Their dependence for subsistence being mostly confined to fishing and fowling, they are not so well supplied with clothing as the upper Indians, who hunt the buffalo, the elk, the ante- lope and other game. The lower Indians obtain some game, and clothing from the posts of the Hudson Bay Com- pany. I have often seen them going about, half naked, when the thermometer ranged between thirty and forty de- grees, and their children barefooted and barelegged in the snow ; and yet when exposed to fatigue, they cannot endure INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 245 the intensity of the season as well as civilized people. I have noticed this, when I have had them employed in con- veying me any considerable distance in a canoe. Their taste and smelling are obtuse, rendered so by their filthy habits and contaminated food. But they are quick to catch correctly a distant sound, and remarkably keen-sighted, acquired by their habits of closely and carefully watching for' game. These nations being, from their mode of sub- ; sistence, more stationary than those of the plains, have more durable and comfortable habitations, which are built of split plank, after the manner of Wanaxka’s, near the falls of the Willamette, which I have described. Some of them indulge the fancy of making their doors like the face of a man, the mouth being the place of entrance. The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as good taste, as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, and are made of inferior materials ; such as deerskins with the hair on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. I saw many women of the poorer class, dressed in a short petticoat or skirt, made of cedar bark, or a species of strong grass twisted into strands, one end of which is secured in a girdle or band to the waist, while the other is suspended, knotted and fringed. These are a substitute for cloth, which they are too poor to obtain. The nations near the ocean, who have intercourse with sailors, and access to ardent spirits, are as 1 degraded as those on our frontiers, and from the same causes. By their communication with those who furnish them with the means of intoxication, and who have introduced kindred vices, they have become indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more debased than the beasts of the earth. How perfectly neat are the deer and the antelope ; how industri- ous the beaver and the bee ; how cleanly is the plumage 22 246 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. of the bird ; how well adapted to repose are their habita- tions ; in a word, how different are all their habits, from those of fallen, polluted man. It is not the want of rational powers, but their abuse by sin which has thus degraded him, and nothing but Christianity can bring him back to God, and the comforts and decencies of life. The want of moral instruction, the influence of bad ex- amples, and unrestrained licentiousness, have brought the lower Indians into a state of wretchedness which will be en- tailed upon future generations, and which nothing but the healing power of the gospel can ever eradicate. There are some exceptions, but not enough to save these remnants of once populous nations, if benevolence and humanity do not soon break their slumbers. It is to be hoped the mis- sionaries, now in the field, by the blessing of God, will in- terpose a barrier to these sweeping desolations. In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from the upper Indians. While they believe in one Great Spirit, they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of this, when the May Dacre was passing down the river in October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the con- fluence of the Cowalitz, there are some dark recesses in the basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned Capt. L. not to approach those dark places; for they were the residence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place ; and the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con- cluded there must have been some great “ medicine 55 in the ship which defended us. They believe in the immortality of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 247 same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this be- lief, the wife of Calpo, an influential chief of the Chenook village near Cape Disappointment, on losing a daughter in the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her to the world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of rowing her canoe to the far off happy regions of the south, where they locate their imaginary elysium. She deposited her daughter, with the two slain females by her side in a canoe, with articles of clothing and domestic implements. She was the daughter of Concomly, and a woman of distinguished talents and respectability, a firm friend of white men, and had more than once saved them from death. How dark was the mind of this talented woman, and how differently would she have conducted under the influence of divine revelation ! These Indians never mention the name of their relatives after they are dead. It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory, and along the coast that slavery exists. It was formerly practiced in the upper country, but was long since abolished. The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly owned and liberated by the Nez Perce Indians. They per- mitted, as I have stated above, their slaves to reside and to * intermarry in their families, and reasoning on the princi- ples of natural justice, they concluded that it was not right to hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated them, and they are now a respectable tribe. Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, and carried to perfection. After they have lost every thing they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; first a hand, and if unsuccessful, the other; after this an arm, and in the same manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the head, and at last their head ; and if they lose this, they go into 248 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. perpetual slavery. If civilized men will gamble, it is desi- rable they should carry gaming to the same perfection ; for then they would cease to be pests in society, and however different may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery, in this we should generally be agreed, that such slaves would not deserve much commiseration. The Indians, how- ever, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game, as civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate the eternal vengeance of God upon themselves if they are not success- ful. The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights for time only. It is a universal practice to indulge in smoking, but they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco, and with it they mix freely a plant which renders the fume less offensive. It is a social luxury, and for its enjoyment they form a circle, using only one pipe. The principal chief begins by drawing three whiffs, the first of which he sends upward, and then passes the pipe to the next per- son in dignity, and in like manner it passes around until it comes to the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in circling ascent, like a double-flued chimney. While thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or some exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle-field, is re- lated ; and the whole is conducted with gravity. Their pipes are variously constructed, and of different materials. Some of them are wrought with much labor and ingenuity of an argillaceous stone, of very fine texture, of a blue black color, found at the north of Queen Charlotte’s island. It is the same kind of stone except in color, as that found upon the head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red. These stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are soft and INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 249 easily worked with a knife, but on being exposed to the air, become hard, and are susceptible of a very good polish. The Indians in the lower country are more indolent than in the upper ; and the common motives for industry operate reversely from those in civilized communities. The more they can get for their labor, the less they will do ; the more they can get for an article in sale, the less they will bring into market. Their wants are but few, and when these are supplied, they will do no more. They have no dispo- sition to hoard up treasures, nor any enlarged plans to exe- cute, requiring expense and labor. If they have any par- ticular present want to supply, they will do what is suffi- cient to satisfy it, and make no farther effort until urged by a returning necessity. To make them industrious and pro- vident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate upon the comforts of life, and show them that they are attainable, and that there is an increase of happiness growing out of industry ; and all this must be learned by experience, for abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail. An Indian may be taken abroad and instructed, and convinced of the advantages of civilization, but if sent back to his country alone, he will become discouraged, and return to, his former habits. Missionaries, and practical farmers, and artisans, must go among them, and make it the business of their lives to do them good, and identify their own interests with theirs. Charging them with indolence, and insensibility, and cruelty, will never make them wiser or better. He is the true philanthropist, who, instead of passing by on the other side, goes to them, and does all in his power to raise them from their degradation, and bring them to God and to heaven. The Indians of the lower country, although less anxious 22 * 250 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. to be instructed in the things of religion, than those of the upper country, express a readiness to receive instructors. I have not found among them, nor any Indians beyond the influence of frontier settlements, any thing like what has been stated to have taken place in other sections of our country : that they will listen to statements made by mis- sionaries, and give their assent to what is said as very good ; and then state their own theories of religion, expecting the same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen any disposition manifested, to say that the Christian religion is good for white men, but as red men differ, they need a dif- ferent religion and mode of life. They have not yet been in- stigated by infidels to say such things. They are conscious of their ignorance of God and salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. While an indifference and apathy char- acterize some, which is discouraging, yet I know of no in- superable obstacles to their improvement. While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians, they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long time under a lingering and dangerous complaint. Their medicine men had done all they could for him, but without success. The father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancouver, and earnestly desired to have him treated with care and with the best medical attendance. The sick son was re- ceived, and in about six months was restored to health. When his father came to take him home, he remarked to Dr. McL. “ My son is a good boy, he has been with you a long time, and I think you must love him ; and now as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and shirt, and as many other small things as you think will be good? We shall always love you . 55 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 251 The lower Indians “ make their medicine , 57 in some par- ticulars, differently from those farther east. Their professed objects are to obtain present relief, if not a radical cure; to make his exit more easy if the patient dies, and that his soul may be rendered capable of performing its journey to its far distant and happy country, and also to assuage the sorrow of surviving relatives. The process is simple, and occupies five or six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats and blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and sur- rounded by a frame work. Two “ medicine men 55 place themselves upon this frame, and commence a chant in low long-drawn tones, each holding a wand in his hand, three or four feet long, with which they beat upon the frame, keeping time with their tune. They gradually increase the loudness and the movement of their medicine song, with a correspondent use of their wand, until the noise becomes almost deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient out of the world. During this time the near relations affect indifference to the condition of the sick person, lest their anxiety should counteract the influence of the charm, and they are generally employed about their common business, the women in making mats, baskets, and moccasons; and the men lolling about, smoking, or conversing upon com- mon subjects. In some cases, especially if their confidence in the medicine man is small, they manifest much affliction and concern ; and in all cases after the person dies, they make great lamentation. I have already mentioned the practice of the lower na- tions of flattening their heads and piercing their noses. But another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-horse’s tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long and an inch wide, inserted into a hole in their under lip, made for the 252 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. purpose, is not correct in regard to any of the Indians in this section of country. Captain Beechy mentions it as a common practice from Norton’s island and northward ; which was noticed by Deshnow, as long ago as 1648, that this ornament was worn by men and women about Prince William’s sound, and which custom, Captain B. says, is common the whole distance along the western shores of America, as far as California. I saw some specimens of this ornament, or rather deformity, which were worn by the natives at Millbank Sound. The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the num- ber of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian of any distinction takes as many wives as he is able to support, and his wealth is supposed to accord with the number. They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only mode of traveling is in canoes ; for the forests are so dense that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not construct any roads. As the upper Indians excel in horsemanship, so these excel in the management of canoes, which are un- commonly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a good bateau. They are generally made of the fir tree. The bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and ward off the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decorated with figures of animals, and the upper edge of the canoe is ornamented with shells. Slaves are employed in propelling the canoes, but not exclusively ; for often the chiefs will perform their part of the labor, and the women are equally expert with the men. Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of the upper country, with the addition of hats and baskets of skil- ful workmanship, made of grass of superior quality, equal INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 253 to the Leghorn. The native hats are a flaring cone. Their baskets are worked so closely as to hold water, and are used for pails. Some of them are interwoven with various colors and devices, fancifully representing men, horses, and flowers. The government of the Indian nations is in the hands of chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by some spe- cial merit. Their only power is influence; and this in proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, and courage. They do not exercise authority by command, but influence by persuasion, stating what in their judgment they believe to be right and for the greatest good of their tribe or nation, or of any family or community. The chiefs have no pow- er of levying taxes, and they are so much in the habit of contributing their own property for individual or public good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their influence however is great ; for they rarely express an opinion or de- sire, which is not readily assented to and followed. Any unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice of the people. Probably there is no government upon earth where there is so much personal and political freedom, and at the same time so little anarchy ; and I can unhesitatingly say, that I have nowhere witnessed so much subordination, peace, friendship, and confidence as exist among the Indi- ans, in the Oregon Territory. The day may be rued, when their order and harmony shall be interrupted by any instru- mentality whatever. There are exceptions, however, to the general fact of the good conduct of the chiefs and the respect which is given them. Cazenove, the first chief of the Chenook nation, is one. He was a great warrior, and before the desolating sickness, which commenced in the year 1829, could bring 254 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. a thousand warriors into action. He is a man of talents, and his personal appearance is noble, and ought to represent a nature kind and generous ; but such is his character, that his influence is retained among his people more by fear than by affection. I saw him often, and several times at my room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, Februa- ry 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, the heir to his chieftainship, a young man who had lingered under a pro- tracted disease. Cazenove departed from the long estab- lished custom of his nation and fathers of depositing the dead in canoes, and had him buried in the cemetery of the Fort, in the decent manner of civilized people. He had the coffin made large for the purpose of putting into it clothing, blankets, and such other articles, as he supposed necessary for the comfort of his son in the world to which he was gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of the interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not at the time furnished with an interpreter, but addressed those present who understood English. Cazenove expressed his satisfaction that an address was given, considering it a token of respect for his son ; and appeared solemn in his affliction, indulging tears only, and not any loud lamenta- tions. Had he conducted with equal propriety subsequently, he would have been worthy of commendation. But when he returned to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to kill the mother of this deceased son, who was the daughter of Concomly, and formerly the wife of Mr. McDougal. The chiefs say, that they and their sons are too great to die of themselves, and although they may be sick, and de- cline, and die, as others do, yet some person, or some evil spirit instigated by some one, is the invisible cause of their death ; and therefore when a chief, or chiefs son dies, the INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 255 supposed author of the deed must be killed. Cazenove, on this occasion, fixed on the mother of this son as the victim of his rage, notwithstanding she had been most assiduous in her attention to him, during his protracted sickness. Of his several wives, she was the most beloved, and his mis- guided mind led him to believe, that the greater the sacri- fice, the greater the manifestation of his attachment to his son, and the more propitiatory to his departed spirit. She fled into the woods, and the next morning, when the gates were opened, came into this fort and implored protection. She was secreted here several days, until her friends at Chenook Bay heard of her situation, and came and secretly took her away. Some days after this, a woman was found killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed to have been done by Cazenove or some one in his employ. 256 CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN. CHAPTER XVIII. Conversation with an intelligent Indian — meeting with Indians — • early and mild season — La Dalles Indians — their anxiety to receive the gospel — Nootka humming bird — number and location of the Indians in the lower country — Indians of the north — the agitated question — solitariness. A very intelligent and influential Indian from the Cas- cades called at my room, on the 8th of February, to en- quire about God. I endeavored to obtain from him his own system of religion. He said, he believed there is a God, and he supposed he made all things, but he did not know any thing more about him. I questioned him in regard to his belief of a future state, and what he expected would be- come of him when he died. He said he did not know. He supposed that he should have an existence after death, but did not know what it would be ; and wished me to tell him. I endeavored to enlighten his mind, and to unfold to him the great fundamental truths of God and eternity, and the way to be saved. He listened with attention, and appeared sober. He told me the Indians were growing better ; that they did not kill each other in wars as in times past ; that they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told him that was good, but to be saved they must repent and receive the Savior by faith, as the only hope for sinners. So benighted are the minds of these heathen, and so barren their lan- guage upon spiritual and invisible subjects, that I had to use such illustrations as I judged best adapted to convey LA DALLES INDIANS. 257 truth to his mind, and I doubt not that he received some knowledge. The next day he called again, and wished me to take his children and teach them how to read and write, and to wor- ship God. I endeavored to explain to him the object of my tour, and that when I returned I would use my influence to have others come and live among them. But he wanted me to continue with them and instruct them. And when I told him I must go, and endeavor to get several to come and teach in different tribes, he wished to know how many sleeps it would take me to go, and how many sleeps before others would come. I told him it would be a great number. He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered in the affirmative, and told him it would be at least two snows. He paused and looked sorrowful. His very look affected me ; he arose and went out. Sabbath, 14th. I attended service as usual in English. There were many Indians from the La Dalles who wished to know if they might be present. We told them there would not be sufficient room in the hall, but a few of their chiefs might attend, and after the English service I would meet with them ; which I accordingly did in the afternoon. They were punctual at the hour, and came in single file, the first chief leading the way. When I prayed with them, they all kneeled down except two or three, and these w$re reprimanded by the chief for -impropriety of conduct. As on other similar occasions, I endeavored to instruct them in the first principles of our revealed religion, to which they gave strict attention. The first chief, at the close of service wished to speak ; and on receiving permission, spoke a short time to his people, and then told me he had prayed much to the Great Spirit, and found his heart was no better, but 23 258 EARLY SPRING. worse. He said, a white man gave them a flag, and told them to set it up on a pole, on Sundays, and meet and pray, sing their songs, and dance around the pole bearing the flag; and that they had done so a long time. He wished to know if it was right,* I told him it was right to meet and pray, and sing, and talk about God, but to dance on the Sabbath was very wrong, and would offend God. I added farther, that they needed some person to teach them the right way to worship God and to be saved. He was affect- ed, and kneeled down and with tears in his eyes said, if you must go away, do send us some one to teach us the right way to serve God. We will now throw away what the man said to us about dancing. We will go to our people and tell them what you have said, and worship God as you have taught us. I never felt so much like weeping over the heathen, as on this occasion ; to see this poor benighted Indian chief upon his knees, with tears in his eyes pleading for some one to come and teach them the way to heaven » What a spectacle ! March 1st. We have many indications of the presence of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the soft tem- perature of the season west of the mountains, render it one of the most delightful portions of our continent. The wide and sudden extremes of heat and cold, to which the east- ern portions are subject, are almost unknown here, and while this is more agreeable, it is also more favorable to health. Those who have the charge of the farming estab- lishment at this place, have commenced sowing thus early * The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the holy Sabbath, was the fear, that singing and praying without dancing, would not interest the Indians ; and to include it would not be so great a departure from their common practices, as to excite aversion to worship. LA DALLES INDIANS. 259 their spring crops ; and the gardener is preparing his ground for the seeds. The grass in the yard begins to assume its beautiful, fresh green. The robin and blackbird have con- tinued here through the winter, and now, with some others of their feathered brethren, resume their cheerful warb- lings in the fields and groves. During the winter, the ther- mometer has not fallen below 22° Fahrenheit, and to this point only three days. At this date, it stood at sunrise, at 37°; at noon, 46°; and at sunset, at 44°. The rains through the winter have been less constant and heavy than 1 antici- pated ; and snow has fallen only ten days, sometimes in trifling quantities, and at no one time over the depth of six inches, and has remained on the ground only a few days. Some have supposed, that the genial climate of the Oregon Territory is attributable to the proximity of the great Pa- cific, shedding the influence of its soft winds far into the in- terior. But the fact is, that almost the only winds through the winter are easterly winds, consequently coming direct, from the regions of perpetual snow. A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, who reside eighty miles distant. One of their chiefs stated to my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their mode of worship ; that they do not now dance on the Sabbath, as they used to do, but they meet and sing, and pray ; and that since they have been better acquainted with the way to worship God, He hears their prayers, and that now, when they and their wives and children are hungry, they pray for deer, and go out to hunt, and God sends them deer to satisfy their wants. It was interesting to know that they were disposed to do, as well as listen to what is taught them. Sabbath, 13th. Besides the usual service in the hall in 260 THE NOOTKA HUMMING BIRD. English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and endea- vored to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. They listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquired whether they might expect, after I should go away, that some one would come and teach them. I could not promise, but replied, that I hoped it would not be more than two snows, before some one would be sent. They enquired if after one or two sleeps, I would let them come to my room and hear more about God. I appointed to meet them on Tuesday afternoon, and spoke with them several succeeding times before their departure. It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that the present is the favorable time for the introduction of the gospel and civilization among the natives of this wide inte- rior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men will make ag- gressions here, and the deadly influence of frontier vices will interpose a barrier to the religion which they now are so anxious to embrace and practice. Every circumstance combines to point out the time when this work should begin, and one of the most important is that these Indians are en- listed in favor of white men, and feel that their condition, in all respects, for this world, as well as the coming one, is better than their own. A well-established Christian influ- ence among these tribes, would surely be respected by those who otherwise would invade their rights, and deprive them of a home as dear to them as our own is to us. March 24th. The season is progressing in delightful mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are beginning to send forth their fragrance ; and the Nootka humming bird has arrived, and is seen darting from bush to bush, feeding upon the open flowers. This most splendid species is not known east of the mountains. The whole of the up- THE INDIAN NATIONS. 261 per part of the body is rufous, the head greenish, the throat cupreous and metalloidal crimson, varying according to the incidence of light. The throat of this species resembles, that of the common, except, that it is even more gorgeous in its colors, and in presenting the metallic feathers, form? a broad ruff in the inferior part of the neck, instead of being wholly a component part of the plumage. The swallows made their appearance on the 12th, and a new species of blue bird of uncommonly beautiful plumage, arrived on the 14th. The swan, several species of geese, and the sand hill crane, are passing to the north for incubation. Their screaming notes are constantly heard, and in the night are not the most favorable to repose. Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper to present, in a connected view, the best information I have been able to obtain of the several nations, their locations, and numbers. There are several tribes, about whom my knowledge is too limited to make any definite statements. Among them are those about Pugets Sound, and the upper part of the .Cowalitz also the Ghiltz Indians, north of the mouth of the Columbia and Chealis rivers. And although I have seen many of the Klicatat nation, who reside at the north of the Cascades, yet I have not been able to learn of them any thing more definite, than that they are a large nation. The Chenook nation resides along upon the Co- lumbia river, from the Cascades to its confluence with the ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, now num- ber not more than fifteen hundred, or two thousand.* The Calapooah nation are located south of the Chenooks, upon the Willamette river and its branches. They are di- * Five persons are the supposed number of a family. The number of families is ascertained by their number of lqdges or dwellings. 23* 262 THE INDIAN NATIONS. vided into seventeen different tribes, under their respective chiefs, and number about eight thousand seven hundred and eighty persons, who speak the same language, radically, with only a little difference in dialect. They are scattered over a territory of two hundred miles north and south, and sixty east and west. Their country is uncommonly good. South of the Calapooah is the Umbaqua nation, residing in a valley of the same name. They are divided into six tribes ; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, Quattamya, and Chasta. Their number is about seven thousand. South of this nation and north of California, there was a very power- ful nation called the Kincla, which before the year 1829. numbered four thousand warriors. But if they have been swept away by sickness, as the other nations of the lower country have, it is probable their whole number of men, women and children, would not now amount to more than eight thousand. Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the Killamooks, who are numerous, but their numbers are not known. South of these, and at the mouth of the Umbaqua river, there are the Saliutla, and two other tribes, supposed to number 2000 persons. This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, makes the number of those known, to be about twenty-five thou- sand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be concluded, from facts now collected, that there are, between the 42° and 47° north latitude, in what W’e term the lower country, as many as twenty-five thousand more, making fifty thousand, w T ho probably at the present moment would gladly receive teachers. Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the follow- ing statements of the numbers of Indians north of Pugets DUELING. 263 Sound, viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, numbering two thousand one hundred and eighty-six. At Hygana Harbor, five tribes or bands, amounting to two thousand ninety-two. At Queen Charlottes Island, eleven tribes, numbering eight thousand six hundred persons. About Hanaga and Chat- ham Straits, there are nine tribes, containing six thousand one hundred and sixty persons. Making the whole number of inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47° and 55® of north latitude, nineteen thousand thirty-eight. At Queen Charlottes Island there is a field of much promise for a missionary station, where the necessaries of life could be easily obtained, and for that high northern latitude, the climate is very mild. Their summer and winter residences are built of split plank, similar to those of the Chenooks. It is said they are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and potatoes of superior quality and in great abundance ; and wild meat is sometimes obtained. Their dress is much the same as what has already been described. Polygamy prevails, and also slavery. They do not treat their slaves with as much kindness as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon Territory treat theirs. When they kill their slaves, the loss of property is the only thing they regard. Sometimes, when one chief becomes offended with another, instead of challenging him to a duel, he goes home and kills a num- ber of slaves, and challenges the other to kill as many. The challenged person, if he can, kills as many or more, and notifies the challenger of the number ; and thus they proceed until one or the other gains the victory ; and the one who yields in this mode of combat ceases to be a gen- tleman. “ The point of honor” with these barbarous gentry is fixed higher than in our Christian country, for here the 264 THE AGITATED QUESTION. life of one satisfies the powerful principle, but there, blood must flow profusely to quench the noble fire of high minded revenge. They are not unfrequently engaged in wars, which are often very bloody. They are much addicted to gambling, and dancing; and it is said they excel in singing. The country is mountain- ous, and is generally covered' with dense forests, consisting mostly of fir. On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes of In- dians, making a population of about four thousand two hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very cold and unpleasant ; but uninviting as it is, the Hudson Bay Com- pany have found men who are willing to reside there in suf- ficient numbers to make six establishments , for the purpose of obtaining the peltries which the Indians collect. Their principal establishment, which is Fort Simpson, is on the upper part of the river and is a place of much resort for the Indians. March 26th. Rode down once more to the lower plains, as they are called, and was delighted with the freshness of the wheat fields, which are beginning to wave in the gentle breezes, and the forest trees are beginning to show their leaves, and their plants their flowers. The sea fowl, which through the winter covered these fields, are gone to their summer residences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning their notes, so full of melody. The question, to whom does this country belong, has been, and is becoming still more, a question of general in- terest, both in Great Britain and the United States. The aboriginal population claim it as their own, and say, they THE QUESTION. 265 merely permit white men to reside among them. Before the first discovery of the noble river, which in itself and its branches waters almost the whole territory, these na- tives had undisputed possession. But their claim is labori- ously, extensively, and practically denied ; for authorities, both of written law, and the opinion of living judges and expositors of law, sanction the principle that “ unsettled habitation is not true and legal possession, and that nations who inhabit fertile countries and disdain or refuse to culti- vate them, deserve to be extirpated.” It is made, then, a question of enquiry, whose claim to this region is best es- tablished ? Our government claim exclusive dominion against any foreign power, of all the country lying between the 42nd and 49th degrees of north latitude, by treaties with nations who claim possessions contiguous, and who have relinquished their claims to the country included in the the above parallels of latitude, except Great Britain ; by the discovery of the principal river by Capt. Gray of the ship Columbia, the 14th of May, 1792; and by interior explor- ation. Great Britain claims the Columbia river for her southern boundary, by right of discovery. Capt. Brough- ton, of the ship Chatham, having ascended the river with two boats, as far as where Fort Vancouver is now situated, took possession of the river and country in the name of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October, 1792. Capt. Broughton was associated with Capt. Vancouver of the ship Discovery, on a voyage of discovery in the north Pacific, and around the world. The possession w r as taken in his Bri- tannic Majesty’s name in due form. A friendly old chief, who did not understand a word of their language, nor they a word of his, was invited to join in the ceremony, and to drink his Majesty’s health. Captain Broughton says the 266 THE QUESTION. chief appeared much pleased with the transaction. But it may be a subject of enquiry, with which the old friendly chief was best pleased, the rum he drank on the occasion, or with,the ceremony which was so full of import. And farther, did the chief, by partaking of his Majesty’s rum and joining in the ceremony, cede all this country to be the Io- na fide property of a foreign nation ? Still Great Britain “ does not set up any claim of exclusive jurisdiction or sove- reignty therein, and denies the claim of the United States to any such sovereign jurisdiction,” but professes to claim for its subjects the right of joint occupancy, indefinitely de- ferring the settlement of the question of exclusive dominion. But these intricate questions, so often asked, I leave to learned diplomatists to decide, after confessing that I am not able to discover why the nations who have, from time immemorial, occupied this country, and who, like other na- tions, have their territorial limits tolerably well defined among themselves, should not still possess the domain which our common Creator and Benefactor has kindly given them. The time has arrived when I expect to resume the work of further exploration. The weeks and months which I have spent here have fled rapidly away, while I have been feebly endeavoring during the winter to benefit the people of the fort, and the Indians ; and to embrace all the oppor- tunities that should present, to collect information in those particulars which pertain to the direct object of my tour. I shall wander for a length of time, yet future, among the wild scenes of nature, which have so gratified and delighted me in traversing the wilderness of forest and prairie ; but my heart looks back to a variety of interesting scenes of civilized life and cultivated society in my own far distant land, and I ardently desire to see the wide region before me LIBERALITY. 267 brought under the same beauty and cultivation. All the social affections of our nature strongly desire the happiness, which refined and Christian society and its concomitant blessings can alone give. A feeling of solitariness, and of desolation comes over the mind as you stand on the banks of the noble Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be for months, no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of your watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you that the white man’s great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its way, to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco. The most unimportant incidents become interesting events, where so much monotony exists. Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements to leave this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief clerk for my bill. He said the Company felt a pleasure in gra- tuitously conferring all they have done, for the benefit of the object in which I am engaged. In justice to my own feelings, and in gratitude to the honorable Company, I would bear testimony to their uniform politeness and gene- rosity ; and while I do this, I would express my anxiety for their salvation, and that they may be rewarded in spir- itual blessings. In addition to the civilities I had received as a guest, I had drawn upon their store for clothing, for goods to pay my Indians, whom I had employed to convey me in canoes, in my various journeyings, hundreds of miles; to pay my guides and interpreters ; and upon their provis- ion store for the support of these men while in my employ. 268 DEPARTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY. CHAPTER XIX. Departure for the upper country — American hunters— -geology at the Cascades — Indian honesty— escape in a dangerous gale — the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station — tender sympathy- famished Indians— arrival at Walla Walla — interesting meeting of Indians — opportunity to give them religious instructions — a walk — the nutritious quality of prairie grass. April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the gen- tlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever remember, I took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief belonging to the La Dalles. Our company consisted of the chief and his daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half-blood, named Baptiste, who took the stern, and two white men, who, with the chief, helped to propel the canoe, making seven persons. These, with the baggage of several hun- dred weight, loaded the frail craft so heavily, that its sides were only about seven inches above water. This, upon a river averaging about a mile in width, with many rapids, and subject to winds, was not a pleasant undertaking. But at this season of the year, when the Indians are about to commence fishing, another canoe could not be obtained. We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to what are called the upper plains, on the north side of the river, and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful prairie of some miles in circumference, and at this early part of the spring was covered with a coat of fresh green grass five or six inches high. A little back from the river, there is a beau- THE CASCADES. 269* tiful lake, the resort of water fowl, which are seen exhibit- ing their unsullied plumage; and in the rear are forests of fir, whither the deer, which crop the grass of the prairie, flee, when they see men ascend the river’s bank. A gathering storm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary ; for as yet no friendly habitations are reared upon these fertile fields for the resort and comfort of man. The rain continuing with some wind, we did not decamp on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour ; after which we passed up into the mountainous part of the country be^ low the Cascades, and encamped near the high Pillar rock which I have mentioned. Soon after leaving our encamp- ment this morning, we met Captain W. with a small com* pany of men in two canoes lashed together, on their way to Fort William upon Wappatoo island. They were wet with the rain of the morning ; and their meagre countenances and tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the happiness of mountain life, or indicate that they had found the hunter’s elysium. But they were in good spirits and passed merrily on their way. The basaltic rocks, which wall up the shores, in some places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and in this place for miles, do not lose in interest by review. For more than half a mile the basalt presented the regular pentagons. Near these, where the shore was inaccessible, we found a deer almost exhausted with swimming in the cold water. Its helpless condition and its mild, large black eye, excited by fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; but our men, instead of rendering it that assistance which it needed, shot it, and stained the pure water of the river with its blood. I could not help feeling a sympathy for this poor, beautiful animal. 24 270 INDIAN HONESTY. While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were engaged in taking the canoe up the rapids and the Cascades, I walked five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river, and some- times climbing over precipices ; and so laborious was the task to get the canoe above all the rapids and falls, that it occupied most of the day, giving me time for examining the scenery around. Almost every variety of volcanic pro- duction was seen, but basalt and amygdaloid predominated. Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered along the shores, some of which preserved its natural appearance ; but the large blocks, when broken, presented the appear- ance of mineral coal. The scenery around is grand ; yet such was the misty state of the atmosphere about the tops of the mountains, wfiich were at this time covered with snow, and the chilliness accompanying, that the enjoyment was less than it would have been under other circumstances. After having finished the portage by the Cascades, we launched out upon the gentle current above, and proceeding up the river two miles, encamped upon the north side. Several Indians came to our encampment and manifested a kind and sociable disposition. They told us that Captain W. the day before, in cordelling his canoes down the Cas- cades, had lost one, and with it baggage, of which they had found some articles, that they would deliver to him when he should again pass this way. The Indians are coming in from their winter retreats, and are engaged in catching sturgeon. The 17th being the Sabbath, we did not remove. It was a rainy day, and in the forenoon the rain came down in torrents, which is common about these mountains through the rainy season of the year. W e were not able to make a fire for preparing food, until after twelve o’clock, when the storm began to abate. DANGEROUS GALE. 271 On Monday the weather was more pleasant, and we made very good progress up the river, through a country of di- versified scenery. Though less mountainous than about the Cascades, yet here were mountains of interesting forms ; one was almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet high, rising at an angle of 45 degrees, beautifully smooth and covered with grass. We passed, a few miles above this, a bluff presenting a perpendicular semicircle, with fissures reg- ularly radiating from the centre of the diameter. In dif- ferent places there were red hills of the color of well-burnt brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, upon a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, where we found a good supply of dry wood, which added to our com- fort and convenience. A wind which blew very fresh through the night, abated on the morning of the 19th, and we proceeded on our way with a gentle breeze, before which we spread a sail made of a blanket. The wind continued to increase until the middle of the day, which rendered navigation rather danger- ous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the distance of coasting around, the men who rowed wished to pass over to the south side of the river, which was here more than a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experi- ment, because the wind and waves were too high for our deep-laden canoe ; but as they were anxious to save labor, 1 did not persist in my objections. We had not passed more than half way across, before the increasing wind raised waves which rolled and broke three times as high as our canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At length the men were not able to keep the canoe headed across the waves, and it turned sideways to them. It seemed that nothing short of a miraculous providence could save us. But by 272 EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE. much exertion and some abatement of the wind, we again got the canoe upon our course, and across the waves, and safely arrived at the south shore. But our greatest danger was yet before us. After coasting a few miles along the south shore, we came to a promontory called Cape Horn, a name given it on account of the dangers of passing. It is of basaltic formation, rising, as I afterwards found by measure- ment, two hundred feet perpendicular upon the water's edge, extending about a mile in length, and the lower part pro- jecting several hundred feet into the river. The wind had so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any danger in pass- ing it, but when we had doubled the Cape, the wind drew around and increased to a gale. The foaming, breaking waves ran high, and we could not return against the wind, and to go forward against the current was to add to the danger of being filled, or dashed against shoreless rocks. Such was the force of the wind, and such the efforts of the men to keep the canoe across the waves and away from the rocks, that in the same instant of time, the bowman and steersman both broke their paddles, and the sail was torn away from the left fastening, and whirled over to the right side of the canoe. It seemed that all hope was gone. There were only three paddles remaining, two of which were im- mediately put into the hands of the steersman and bowman. It was impossible to return, and to make progress against the current with only such means, appeared equally imprac- ticable. A watery grave seemed inevitable ; but by the protecting mercy of God, when the waves broke, it was just without the canoe. It was necessary to our safety to be collected and fearless, and we cleared the sail, and gave or- ders as though no danger was near. Contrary to our high- est expectations, we continued to make headway up the LA DALLES. 273 river, assisted probably by one of those large eddies, which abound in this river, until we came to a bay with a sandy shore, where we safely moored our frail barque, and waited until the winds and weather became more favorable. After the wind had somewhat abated, Indians came to us from the opposite shore, of whom we bought paddles, and being again equipped for our voyage, we proceeded up the river to the La Dalles, and as far through them as we could safely go. Here we landed and encamped on the north shore, and a number of Indians soon came to us, whom we engaged to carry us with horses, to the navigable water above the Falls. Near this was a very large eddy, where, two years previously, nine men were drowned.. Their bateau was drawn into it and capsized, and only one man escaped, which he effected by clinging to a bag containing some empty kegs. He was carried a few miles down the river, and then taken up by Indians who were passing in a canoe. The 20th was occupied in passing the La Dalles and the Falls, above which we encamped. This place affords a fa- vorable location for missionaries. The Indians resort here in large numbers for fishing, and remain usually through the summer, and some of them through the year. An in- tercourse would be always open with surrounding tribes, and facilities would be at hand both to disseminate the truths of the gospel, and to obtain the means of comfortable subsistence. As soon as we were encamped, the Indians, who are here in great numbers preparing for fishing, came around us and their first enquiry was for pi pi, (tobacco.) I am much disgusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved no long- er to consider it necessary to conciliate the Indians by smo~ 24 * 274 CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGE. king the friendly pipe. If an Indian is suffering with hun- ger and nakedness, his first request is for tobacco. As we had parted with the Indians who came with us from Fort Vancouver, we here engaged two others to assist us as far as Walla Walla. On the 21st, we took a bateau which we found here, and progressed slowly up the river against the current and fre- quent rapids. On the morning of the 22d, while encamped, and the men were making preparation for breakfast, I ram- bled into a little village in the neighborhood, and called at a lodge, whose inmates consisted of an aged woman, a younger one, and four little girls. I addressed them in the Chenook language, but they did not understand me. Being tolerably familiar with the language of signs, I enquired whose were those children. The younger woman signified that three of them w r ere hers, but the eldest was an orphan, whom she had adopted for her own ; and in the most pa- thetic manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little of which was intelligible. The aged matron sitting on the ground of her movable lodge, with her head reclined upon her hand, occasionally introduced a few sentences to aid the narration ; and so sad and affecting was the whole ac- cent and sound of their voices, that I freely sympathized with them, and nodded my assent to all they said. I re- gretted the necessity which compelled me to leave them without being able to point them to Him, who is touched with the feelings of our infirmities, and who binds up the broken in heart. I thought, as I walked slowly back to my breakfast, how little of the savage character was exhibited by these females, and on the contrary, how these amiable sensibilities would have done honor to any civilized society. Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side of FAMISHED INDIANS. 275 the river, at a place of great resort for the Indians, but they had not come in from their winter retreat. There were many canoes drawn up at a short distance from the shore, and left without any apprehensions of their being stolen, showing the confidence the Indians have in each others honesty. They do not need guards, nor bolts and bars, and prisons. To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selected a place densely covered with wild broom corn of last year’s growth yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our encampment, who were as miserable objects as I have seen. They were not more than half covered with tattered skins of rabbits patched together ; and were emaciated with star- vation. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of pity, the traveler needs to carry with him a store of clothing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, without having the means of furnishing them substantial relief. On the 25th, we made slow progress against the strong current with our poorly manned bateau, and failing of arri- ving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, encamped under the high basaltic rocks, where we found a small spot of soil furnishing some wood. The next morning we arrived at the fort, where I met at the landing a number of Nez Perce Indians waiting my arrival. I felt much satisfaction in seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of affection. It was like meeting old friends ; and there appeared to be so much unfeigned pleasure in the reception they gave me, that it inspired the hope, that the disposition they express to learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation more permanent than novelty. I had told a band of the Cayuse Indians, on my way down the river last October, that I would 276 FULFILMENT OF PROMISE. meet them here in the spring, and inform them about God and the way to worship him. Many of them were here, ready to attend to the fulfilment of my promise, and un- doubtedly my arrival at the appointed time, confirmed their confidence. As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to con- tinue here a week or two and improve such opportunities as might offer for instructing the Indians residing near this place, and those who might come from more remote places ; making the best use of such facilities as can be obtained, without waiting for the thorough knowledge of their lan- guage, which the prudence of some persons would consider indispensible to* the commencement of teaching them the way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know what the religion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its gratification is postponed. The danger that delay will re- sult in indifference or disgust, is as great as that an early attempt to impart instruction ,may be connected with imper- fections. During my continuance in this place, I preached on the Sabbath morning to the white people belonging to the fort, and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cayuse, Walla Walla, and Nez Perce tribes. They always gave good at- tention, and some appeared to be much interested. An in- stance of opposition to the truths of the gospel occurred here, proving the truth of the scriptures, that the Savior is set for the fall and rising of those who hear. A chief of the Cayuses, who several times came to hear, disliked what was said about a plurality of wives. He said he would not part with any of his ; for he had always lived in sin, and was going to the place of burning, and it was too late for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be saved ; A WALK GRAND SCENERY. 277 and as he must go to that place, he would go in all his sins, and would not alter his life. Those who are familiar with the various methods to which sinners resort, to avoid the convictions of truth and conscience, may see in his deep ha- tred to holiness, that the operation of sin is the same in every unsanctified heart. This is the only instance of open opposition, that I witnessed among the Indians ; nor does it characterize the Cay use tribe. They very much resem- ble the Nez Perces in their peaceable disposition, and desire to be instructed, and present in connection with the Walla Wallas, a promising field of missionary labor. May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Colum- bia through the basaltic mountain, two miles below the fort, to take a more particular view of the scenery, than can be obtained in a hasty passage on the river. I ascended the mountain, from the top of which I had a fine prospect of the country around, opening in every direction as far as the eye could reach. All parts were covered with the fresh green of spring vegetation. Very few forests were to be seen in any direction, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the south, and these, instead of the fresh hues presented by for- ests at this season, were softened by the distance to a hazy blue. Even at this distance, the perpetual snows of Mount Hood, could be distinguished at the west, and at the north- west Mount Rainier near Pugets Sound ; and at the north and the east various parts of scattered mountains. After some time employed in looking around upon the vast ex- panse, I approached the perpendicular walls, between which the Columbia descends, which are about three hundred feet high, as I ascertained by the number of seconds occupied in the descent of large stones, projected from the brink of the precipice, which I distinctly heard when they struck upon the 278 NUTRITIOUS GRASS. shore below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava, the latter varying much in color and density, some of it suf- ciently porous and light to swim upon water. Two thirds of the way down this deep channel, are two high eminences called the Pillars, to which, by a circuitous route, I de- scended. They stand upon conical bases, eighty or a hun- dred feet high above the river ; and above these bases rise nearly a hundred feet perpendicular. They are indeed re- markable ; but there are so many singular formations in this volcanic country, that curiosities become common. I returned, though much fatigued with my long walk over prairies, precipices, and mountains, yet gratified with the examination of the works of nature. My horses and mule, which I had left with the Nez Perce Indians, were kept in their country, one hundred and thirty miles east of this place, and were in April brought into this neighborhood. To-day, May 5th, they were caught and brought to the fort. I was surprised to find them in fine order, with new coats, and in high spirits. They had run out on the prairies without any shelter from the storms, and with no food, except what the remains of the previous sum- mer’s growth afforded, together with the early grass of spring. Who would have supposed, considering their worn down condition, when I left them in October, that with no other fare they would have fattened during the winter. This fact shows the superior mildness of the climate, and the nu- tritive quality of prairie grass, even after dried up with the summer drouth. Another evidence of the truth of this remark may be seen in the condition of the cattle kept at this fort. With nothing more to feed upon than what they find upon the prairies, they are now not only in good order, but some of them are actually fat, and in as HIGH WIND. 279 good condition for market, as oxen driven from the stalls of New England. I rode to-day with Mr. P. ten miles up the river to the confluence of the Lewis, or as it is called, the Nez Perce river, with the Columbia. They are both noble streams ; the Columbia is nearly three-fourths of a mile, and the Nez Perce a half mile wide. The prospect around is de- lightful ; the soil is good, as is evidenced by the fresh verdure which is springing up luxuriantly, at this early season. A large band of horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, are feeding here. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses do not often stray from the place where they are left ; habit, however produced, is as good a safeguard as inclosures. Along upon the shores of the river, I found specimens of calcedony and cornelian. The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer stand- ing at noon, at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, which is an un frequent occurrence west of the great mountains. Towards and through the night the wind blew very strong- ly, and shook the bastion which I occupied, so that it seem- ed as if it would be prostrated to the earth ; but such wind in this particular section of country is common. During the time of my continuance here, I had more frequent opportunities to address the Indians, and in greater numbers, than I had anticipated. From the promise that the word of God shall not return void, but shall accomplish that whereunto it is sent, may not the hope be indulged, that some good fruits will be the result of these labors. The Walla Walla tribe, though the descendants of emancipated slaves, are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with the same respect. 280 JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERGE COUNTRY. CHAPTER XX. Journey to the Nez Perce country — funeral of a child — natural see* nery — worship on the Sabbath— return to Walla Walla — industry of the Indians— ^battle ground— practice of smoking — journey to Colvile. In company with several Nez Perce Indians who had come down from their own country to escort me, I com- V menced my journey on the ninth, and pursued the same route by which I came last autumn. Nothing eventful marked our way, and we arrived at the Snake or Lewis river, the evening of the eleventh, where we found several lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us a very cordial re- ception, and a warm-hearted shake of the hand, the com- mon expression of Indian friendship. The night of our ar- rival a little girl, about six or seven years of age, died, and on the morning of the twelfth they buried her. Every thing relating to the burial was conducted with great propriety. The grave was only about two feet deep ; for they have no spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the earth, and this was removed with the hands ; and with their hands they filled up the grave after the body was deposited in it. A mat was laid in the grave, then the body wrapped in its blanket, with the child’s drinking cup and spoon made of horn ; then a mat of rushes spread over the whole, and filled up, as above described. In this instance they had prepared a cross to set up at the grave, most probably having been told to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I saw NATURAL SCENERY. 281 west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teachers, but as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. One grave in the same village had a cross standing over it, which, to- gether with this, were the only relics of the kind I saw, du- ring my travels in the country. But as I viewed a cross of wood of no avail, to benefit either the dead or the living, and far more likely to operate as a salvo to a guilty con- science, or a stepping-stone to idolatry, than to be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke it in pieces, I then told them that we place a stone at the head and foot of the grave, only to mark the place ; and without a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our custom. As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the Cooscootske, on account of the high water, we had to pass over the huge precipices of basalt, at the foot of which we traveled down last fall, and which I have mentioned. We were compelled often to approach very near the brink, where it seemed as if we were almost suspended over the dizzy depth of three hundred feet. We arrived at the Cooscootske early in the afternoon of the third day after leaving Walla Walla* making the distance about 120 miles. The whole country had put on the loveliness of spring, and divested itself of the dreariness of winter, and the grandeur of the mountain scenery appeared to rise before me with new freshness and delight. The Indians are assembling in great numbers from different and distant parts of the country, to enquire about the religion that is to guide them to God and heaven ; and which they also think has power to elevate them in the scale of society in this world, and place them on a level with intelligent as well as Christian white men. 25 282 THE OPHTHALMY. On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, and down the Nez Perce river, the country is diversified with hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, from five hundred to two thousand feet high. The volcanic and ar- gillaceous strata are generally horizontal, but in some places thrown into various degrees of inclination, from horizontal to perpendicular ; in other places curved or waving. They have all the regularity of works of art, raised up by human skill; why should not then the power and skill of an Omnip- otent hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works ? After having been several months where the Indians of the lower country came daily under my observation, the contrast between them and these with whom I am now, is very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject, both in their manners and spirit ; while the latter are truly dignified and respectable in their manners and general ap- pearance, far less enslaved to their appetites, or to those vices whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know enough to set some estimate upon character, and have much of the proud independence of freemen ; and are desirous of possessing a consequence in the estimation of other people, and for this reason, wish to be taught, and they receive any instruction with remarkable docility. Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with me ; but as I have little prospect of the arrival of my interpreter, I shall probably be left to commiserate their anxiety, while it will be out of my power to do them good. I have frequent applications to prescribe for the ophthal- my, with which the people are much afflicted, and which I should think is a prevalent endemic. Calomel, applied in about the quantity of one grain to each eye, once in twenty- WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH. 283 four hours, I found to be an efficacious remedy. No inju- rious effects were known to have occurred from its use, and in most cases it was successful. The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill and bravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but say they now are afraid to go to war ; for they no longer be- lieve that all who fall in battle go to a happy country. They now believe that the only way to be happy here or hereafter, is by knowing and doing what God requires. They have learned enough to fear the consequences of dying unforgiven, but not sufficient to embrace the hopes and consolations of the gospel. I have been interested to see the reasonings of their minds, and the results of their reflec- tions, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not indif- ferent to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisi- tive, and capable of thought and investigation. They* have obtained light sufficient, to show how great is the darkness in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to be hoped, that these efforts to enlighten them will be followed by those still more efficient, until that meridian day foretold in proph- ecy, shall fully come, and these heathen be given to the Savior with all the remote ends of the earth for a possession. Sabbath, 15th. The interpreter I had been expecting did not arrive, and consequently much of what I wished to say to these hundreds of Indians, could not be communicated for the want of a medium. I felt distressed for them. They desired to celebrate the Sabbath after a Christian manner. When the chiefs came and enquired what they should do, I told them to collect the people into an assembly and spend the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in conversation on those things about which I formerly in- 284 RETURN TO WALLA WALLA. structed them. They did so, and it was truly affecting to see their apparent reverence, order and devotion, while I could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed. The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales, and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the un- derstanding. As a proof that they have acquired some correct ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the employment of mere outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian who attended me so faithfully on my outward route, came to me, anxious to describe the different manner in which he regarded the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teu- tacus. He v said Charlie prayed with his lips, butTeutacus prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy much of his prayers, and if there is one among this multi- tude, who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited by the gospel, I believe it is this man. Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided what course to pursue in my future movements ; but came to the conclusion to proceed to the place of Rendezvous, and join the returning caravan, provided I could go by the way of the Grand Round, and to the south-west of the Snake river, and explore a part of the country which I had not passed through the preceding autumn. But the Indians chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river moun- tains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well ascertained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I wish- ed to explore the north-east branch of the Columbia, which runs through an important part of the country, and upon which, and its branches, many considerable tribes reside. To return by the way my company would travel, and by INDIAN INDUSTRY. 285 which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only partially accomplished ; and after canvassing the subject as deliberately as I could, 1 concluded to return to Walla W alia, procure guides and assistants, and go up the Co- lumbia as far as Colvile, which is the highest post of the Hudson Bay Company, about seven hundred miles, by the traveled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the In- dians of my determination, who, though they evidently pre- ferred that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the decision, and showed more kindness than I had expected. They readily appointed Haminilpilt, one of their young chiefs, to attend me on my return down the river. After writing several letters, to forward to the United States from Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destina- tion, and at night arrived at the village on the Nez Perc£ river, where we had encamped on the eleventh. At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the in- dustry of these people. Some were engaged in catching fish, and gave me some excellent salmon ; the women and children were early out on horseback to procure the cowish root, which they often manufacture into bread ; and when we left, only a few old persons and very young children re- mained in their village. Five or six miles from this village, up a small branch of this river, we passed a spot, which some few years ago, was a battle-field between the Nez Perces and some other nation r whose name I could not with certainty ascertain, but probably it was the Tuelca. The ground was judiciously chosen by the invading party, which was just back of a point of land coming down near the stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass, around which they opened a fire, while the Nez Perces, not expecting the approach of a foe, were taken by surprise, and fifteen or 25 * 286 PRACTICE OF SMOKING. twenty of their number were killed. The very spot where each individual fell, is now designated by heaps of stones raised three and four feet high. The country over which we passed to-day, a distance of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with hills and valleys and covered with its self-provided carpet of lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and travel- ed in company. Near night we encamped in a rich valley, through which a considerable stream of water runs to the north. Before it was dark, a number more whom I recog- nized as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently re- luctant to separate from our company. I conversed with them about the practice so universal among the men, of using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence, for which they pay almost as much as for their whole list of comforts besides. In reply to my arguments to dissuade them from its use, they said, “ white men smoke. 55 I ad- mitted the truth, but told them that all white men are not wise in every thing they do; that they have some practices which are not good, The Nez Perces call tobacco, smoke, and remarked, “ we are better then than white men ; for they eat smoke, 55 — meaning tobacco — “we do not eat smoke. 55 This to be sure was an argument of much shrewdness, and wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment to this stupefying vegetable, that to obtain it, they will part with the last article of food or clothing, or even take down the poles which uphold their dwellings, and sell them for fuel. In this view I regard it as a vice, from which they should be rescued if practicable. The 18th we continued our journey, and rode forty-five miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday, and better supplied with wood* On the upper part of the RICH SOIL. 287 Walla Walla river is a delightful situation for a missionary establishment, having many advantages not found for some distance around. It is not, however, so central for either the Nez Perces, Cayuses, or Walla Wallas, as would be de- sirable, yet a mission located on this fertile field would draw around an interesting settlement, who would cultivate the soil, and be instructed. How easily might the plough go through these valleys, and what rich and abundant har- vests might be gathered by the hand of industry. But even now the spontaneous productions of these vast plains, inclu- ding millions of acres, are so profuse, that not the fiftieth part becomes the food of organic life. In some places bands of Indian horses are seen ; the timid deer, or hare ; the wary marmot, and the swift gazelle. But these, with other animals, consume so small a proportion, that these wide fields are comparatively unoccupied. We experienced a long detention on the morning of the 19th, in consequence of our horses wandering into a ravine, to which retreat we could not easily trace them. They did not, however, violate their rule, of making our encampment, for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles and arrived at Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north- east tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. P. assisted in obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French voya- geurs to be my assistants; one of whom could speak some English. I concluded to take horses, and go up through the Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia to the left some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return to take the river. This would give a more extended observation of the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of their condition in regard to prospects of establishing teachers among them. 288 JOURNEY TO COLVILE. On Sabbath, the 22d, we had worship as usual, and the following day commenced the journey for Colvile. Our course was in an easterly direction forty miles, and at night we found a new place to lay our heads for rest, in a valley presenting all the appearance of the farmer’s grass fields, ready for the mower’s hand, and from which he expects to receive a future gain. But the natives, not appreciating these sources of profit, neglect them altogether, and gather only a scanty living from a few esculent roots, which grow spontaneously in the waste. PALOOSE INDIANS. 289 CHAPTER XXI. Paloose Indians — Pavilion river — extraordinary excavation — lost on the prairie — Indian principle — Spokein woods and country — Indian ferry — Spokein valley — granite — volcanic curiosities — fertile valley — worship with the Spokeins — Mill river valley — arrival at Fort Colvile — description of the place — leave Colvile for Fort Okanagan — a mountain of marble — Grand Coule, or old bed of the Columbia — Okanagan described — Long rapids — arrive at Walla Walla. The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly course, and after traveling five hours over a somewhat high but diversified country, descended into a fertile valley, through which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river. I^ere we found a village of Paloose Indians who are a band of the Nez Perces. We hired them to assist us in crossing the river, which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid cur- rent. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of the current carried more than a half mile down the river before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we had to encounter the stream, before every thing was safely over ; and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the opposite shore. This, together with refitting, employed sev- eral hours. We traveled up the Pavilion river, which comes from the high lands that divide the waters of this and the Spokein river. This river is walled up with basalt, gene- rally high and perpendicular, in various windings and forms, for the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places the walls are spread out so widely as to enclose large spaces of rich interval ; in other places so closing upon the river 290 EXTRAORDINARY EXCAVATION. as to leave only space sufficient for it to pass. The night was cold, the thermometer standing on the morning of the 25th, at 34°. We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire prairie, until we came to the south part of the Spokein country. Near the summit level which divides the waters of the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting ex- cavation, availed within by basaltic rocks. The pillars are regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in sec- tions of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined, making a wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The excavated enclosure, though not in a regular form, is yet nearly entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the out- side of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gradually slopes off in hills and dales. By what agency was this excavation formed ? There is no appearance, as in many other places, of volcanic craters, unless it is itself a crater, and there are no signs of the action of water. May it not have been a subsidence ? I passed through it leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these huge crys- tals, of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for that circumstance, that certain laws govern the mineral world, as well as the animal or vegetable. We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez Perce and Spo- kein nations. They all manifested a perfectly friendly disposition, but appeared to be poor, evidently in want of a comfortable subsistence. We stopped for the night, after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language differs almost entirely from that of any tribe or nation I have yet seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently acquainted with it to inform them of the object of my tour through their court- LOST ON THE PRAIRIE. 291 try, with which they were not only satisfied, but appa- rently interested. We took an early departure on the morning of the 26th, but traveled only a few hours before my Indian guides lost the track and the course they should pursue. Becoming confident that they were not right, I alighted and set my pocket compass, and discovered that instead of a north-east direction, they were going west. Enquiring of them if they knew where to find our trail again, one of them, a young chief, putting his hand to his head, and with gestures expressing the confusion of his mind, answered, waiitu en soko , “ I do not know. 55 Our situation was rather embarrassing. We had very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and at about an equal distance from Walla Walla and Col vile, on a widely extended prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants only for two days, and no probable means for obtaining more until we should arrive at the fort ; to be lost under these circumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of a high mountain we had passed was in view, and we might retrace our path, and therefore I was determined not to lose sight of this land-mark, until we should find the trail lead- ing to the Spokein river. While my guides went off in search of it, I could hardly fail to find even in our circum- stances, some amusement in the apathy of my two French- men. They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their way through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing or go to sleep with the same heedless indifference when lost in a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of a well known river, or performing the duties of the fort. They appear wholly unconscious of danger on the approach of hunger and starvation, until long after the last morsel is consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils 292 SPOKEIN RIVER. that afflict them to-day. On this occasion these men spent the time of our detention in calm repose. After some time our guides returned and told me they had found some Spo- kein Indians about a mile distant, who were traveling to- wards the south, but had stopped to refresh their horses. We proceeded to the place, and I engaged one of them to assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to the Spo- kein river. He was a tall, intelligent looking man. He mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, jaded as our horses were, it was with difficulty we could keep up with him. After going at this rate more than an hour, he stopped, ^nd^pointed us to a lake, and said we should find the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their vil- lage on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go any farther, although I offered him a large compensation. His only, and unvarying answer was, that he had done for us all that was needed, and why should he perform any un- necessary labor for us and take pay. It appeared to be a principle with him, that it would be wrong for him to take pay for what we did not need. I was astonished at the hon- esty of this heathen, and his steadfast adherence to it, when I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who to be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unnecessary extent, and artfully deceive you to make you believe it very important. For his faithfulness and honesty I not only paid him on the spot to his satisfaction, but afterwards sent him a present of powder and balls, articles highly valued. Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the Spokein river, at four o’clock, P. M. A few miles after we left the lake, we entered the Spokein woods which are very exten- sive, consisting of yellow pitch and elastic pine, some hem- SPOKEIN VALLEY. 293 loc, spruce and fir, together with various shrubbery. These are the woods in which Ross Cox w r as lost, about the cir- cumstances of which he gives a very interesting description, but which, so far as I have yet had an opportunity to judge, contains far more fiction than truth. But his multitude of growling bears, and howling wolves, and alarming rattle- snakes, of which I have seen only one, may yet come out from their lurking places in hostile array. When we came to the river, which is about thirty rods wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian who keeps a canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women came to the river, and with uncommonly pleasant voices, together with the language of signs, the latter of which only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to us, and my men would perform the labor of ferrying over our baggage. They declined on account of the rapidity and strength of the current, the river being in full freshet. Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning. This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten- sively wide. The North-west Company had a trading post here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods present a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is seen in great numbers, flying from tree to tree, vociferating its chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens are numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their intervals of labor, while constructing their habitations so 26 294 SPOKEIN VALLEY. admirably adapted for their tender offspring ; on an exam- ination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be as- tonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God has manifested himsef in supplying, instead of reason, a myste- rious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end to be accomplished. On the 27th, about the time in the morning mentioned by the two women, the Indian ferryman came, and crossed the river in his canoe. His appearance, together with that of his canoe, reminded me of iEneas’ ferryman, who carried him over the Stygian lake. r “Canites inculta jacet ; Sordidus ex humeris nodo dependet amictus, Cceruleam advertit cymbam, ripaeque propinquat.” After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the east side especially is very fertile. Here the village of the Spokeins is located, and one of their number has commenced the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has planted with potatoes, peas, and beans, and some other ve- getables ; all of which were flourishing, and were the first I had seen springing up under Indian industry west of the mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley to the foot of the mountain on the east, and pointed out the trail we should pursue. As we wound our way up the mountain, I looked down into the valley we had crossed, and which stretches along the winding river, and drew in my imagination a picture of what it will be, when this peo- ple are brought under the influence of Christianity and civ- ilization. This section of country presents less appearance of volcanic operation ; and in several places I found granite VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES. 295 in its natural form and position, resembling that found in the Eastern States. When we had arrived at the summit of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, several miles wide, covered with yellow pine forming an open forest. Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of regular cones of vari- ous magnitudes, from those of only a few feet in diameter and height, to those a hundred in diameter and sixty feet high. They all had the same appearance, differing only in magnitude, and were composed of broken granite, in angular pieces, from those that were very small, to six or eight inches in diameter, and on the outside were nearly black, as if colored with rising smoke. They had more the appearance of being broken by manual labor, and piled up for future use in constructing roads or wharves, than the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause but the latter can be assigned. The sandy plain around them was un- disturbed, and large pine trees were growing about them as in other places. At the south of these were large rocks of granite, and in one place a basaltic dyke extending a hun- dred rods or more. After passing this plain, we descended and came again to the Spokein river, which makes a bend around to the north-east. In this place the valley is less extensive, and the mountains more precipitous. We again ascended the mountain, upon which granite and mica slate prevail, with- out any volcanic appearances. From this we descended into a rich valley, which was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has the appearance of having been a lake filled up with mountain deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from which pro- ceeds a rivulet passing out at the south-west. Leaving 296 ANXIETY OF THE SPOKEINS. rhis place, we wound around a mountain in a northerly di- rection, down a valley less fertile but more extensive, and at four in the afternoon came to a stream of water, coming from the mountains at the east, where our guides said we must stop for the night. Near evening, several companies of Spokein and some Nez Perce Indians came riding into the place of our en- campment, and turned out their horses with ours in the half wood and prairie. The Spokeins, who had seen me on my way, and had learned who I was, sent information out to the various hunting parties, that a minister was passing through their cduntry, and as it was the first time one was ever among them, they wished to see him and hear what he had to say to them. They brought with them a good interpre- ter, a young man of their nation, who had been in the school at the Red river settlement on the east side of the mountain, and had obtained a very good knowledge of English. We had public worship that evening in the Spokein and Nez Perce languages. One of the Nez Perces, a chief who understood the Spokein language, collected his people, a little to the left of the Spokeins, and translated the discourse as it was delivered, into the language of his people, without any interruption to the service. This was a plan of their own devising. All the circumstances combined were to me unu- sually interesting. Providences above my control had de- layed me three several times, and thus given them an oppor- tunity to collect their people and overtake me. Some of them had pursued my path a day and a half, and were unwilling to return, being resolved to accompany me to Colvile. These benighted Indians manifested the same solicitude to hear the gospel that others had done before. And as a most affecting proof that the impressions then made on their minds MILL RIVER VALLEY. 297 were not momentary, they went home and erected in their village a church, constructed of rude materials surely, but designed, as they said, to furnish a place, that when the next missionary should arrive, he might stop and teach them.* The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain fell, but this did not prevent our early departure; for it was ne- cessary to be on our w r ay, as my men had the evening before consumed their entire stock of provisions, and, whatever might occur, we could procure no more until we should reach Colvile. We could not obtain any game, for being advised by the superintendent at Walla Walla not to en- cumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them behind. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direc- tion we came to a very fertile valley, well adapted to culti- vation, extending north and south at least fifty miles, and of .> various extent in width, from a half mile to two miles. The valley is an open prairie well supplied with grass, and even in this high latitude of 48°, cattle could do well through the whole year, without the labor of cutting hay. The hills on each side are covered with woods. As we proceeded down this valley, we came to villages of Indians who understood the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe, pro- bably to the Cceur d’Alene. Near their principal village we came to Mill river, which was in full freshet. They had no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage across. But the Nez Perce' chief took part of it upon his shoulder, mounted his horse, and swam over, and crossed and re-crossed until all was upon the other side. I then * The name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes Spokane. I called them Spokans, but they corrected my pronuncia- tion, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until I was convinced that to give their name a correct pronunciation it should be written Spokein. 26 * 298 FORT COLVILE. crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable meth- od, but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback. After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my remaining stock of eatables with my destitute French and Indian attendants, leaving the anticipation of our next meal to the time when, after a long day’s industrious travel, we should find ourselves safely at Colvile. Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missiona- ry located here, would have easy access to the Spokein, Sap- well, S^ntou-tou-oulish, Kettle falls, Lake, Cceur d’Alene, and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field within two hundred miles, presenting the natural advanta- ges of mild climate, good soil, and forests. We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, after a weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, sur- rounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ; and a half mile below are Kettle falls, above which the river spreads out widely, and moves slowly, but just above the precipice it contracts into a narrow channel, and dis- appears from the view of the spectator at the fort, until seen winding its way among rocks below. This establish- ment is built for defense and is well stoccaded, but so friend- ly have the natives always been, that no wars have ever occurred among them. It is occupied by some half dozen men with Indian families, and is well supplied with the useful animals and fowls common to farming establish- ments. The winter and summer grains, together with gar- den vegetables, are cultivated with success and in profusion. This place does not suffer with summer drouth, like many WORSHIP AT THE FORT. 299 other parts of this country, and rains are of frequent occur- rence ; the seasons here are not divided, as on the lower parts of the Columbia, into wet and dry. I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDonald, the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver ; but the kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge of the fort. I found here an old man, who thirty years be- fore accompanied Lewis and Clarke across the continent, and had for several years past taken up his residence here. He is in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter- preter to the neighboring Indians. On Sabbath the 29th, the people of the fort who under- stood English, assembled, and we worshiped the God of our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and from differ- ent nations had collected us in a little group in this re- gion of the world. The Indians too came about me and expressed great anxiety to be taught the revealed will of God. They endeavored to make me understand what their former traditionary belief and practices had been, and to let me know, that what they had learned from me was rea- sonable and satisfactory to them, and that they wished to know all that related to so important and momentous a sub- ject. But our medium of communication was inadequate to a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God so loved the world that he gave his only Son to die for its redemption. Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant re- gion they have invariably, with earnestness and importuni- ty, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of Christians. But how little of the faith, and love, and liberality of the church is invested in the most profitable of all enterprises, 300 JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. the conversion of the world. Should some one propose the construction of a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and demonstrate the practicability of the measure, and show that nature has interposed no effectual barrier, and that it would concentrate not only the whole internal, but also the China trade, and the stock would produce annually a rich dividend, how soon would Christians engage in it. Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our journey down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the boats from this place on their late passage to Fort Vancou- ver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I changed my guides for two others ; one a Spokein, and the other a Paloose ; retaining my two voyageurs. As we left Fort Colvile we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Co- lumbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken cataract for the distance of one hundred feet, it was a su- blime spectacle. The whole scenery as we proceeded down the river was marked by variety, wildness, and romantic grandeur, as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote regions, had consulted for her own amusement some of her most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around are constructed on a scale of magnificence, presenting al- most all the varieties of elevation, precipice, and forest. This is the country which by more than one of my prede- cessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, and rattle-snakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetrable, by ordinary courage ; but we found no indi- cations of the presence of these animals before this even- ing, when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once interrupted the universal silence by which we were sur- rounded. After a few hours ride, on the morning of the 31st, we LOCATION OF MARBLE. 301 re-crossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a much more numerous population than now obtain a subsist- ence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here afforded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in ferrying the river. In the neighborhood of this place I dis- covered a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river ; some sections are pure white, while others are beautifully clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced freely with sulphuric acid. This will in time become very valuable, for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into various countries. Several miles below this marble loca- tion I was interested with the juxtaposition of granite and basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land one hundred and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there were large quantities of solid granite in its natural position, with- out any appearance of having undergone an igneous in- fluence, and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of basalt rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of having been thrown up by several successive volcanic erup- tions ; the earth on the back side gradually rising to a mountain. At this place we left the river, to save traversing a great bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to reach it again before night. We pu-rsued our way over an elevated prairie, destitute of wood and water. It became evident that night would overtake us before we could reach the river, unless we should urge forward with all the speed that hu- manity for our horses would permit. Before five o’clock we came near the great gulf walled up with basalt, which as we supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our 302 GRAND COULE. next object was to find a place where we could descend to its shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we found a descent by a ravine ; but to our disappointment discovered that it was the Grand Coule, which was un- doubtedly the former channel of the river. With consider- able difficulty we wound our way into it, and found it well covered with grass, and by searching, obtained a small supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is nearly a mile wide, with a level bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, as the river itself is in many places, with basaltic rocks, two and three hundred feet per- pendicular. This Coule separates to the left from the pres- ent channel of the Columbia, about one hundred miles be- low Colvile, and is about one hundred miles in length, when it again unites with the river. The basaltic appearances are exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences of eruptions at different periods of time. A peculiarity in this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight or ten feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. Those who have traveled through the whole length of the Coule, rep- resent it as having the same general features throughout, while the whole distance of the river around to the place where it again unites, as I know from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a deep channel, cut through the rocks. We left the Grand Coule early on the morning of the 1st of June, and with difficulty ascended the western bank. Before noon my guides lost the way to Okanagan, and wan- dered far out upon the wide prairie where there was no water. Losing my confidence in their knowledge of the country, except on some frequented routes, I directed my course for the river ,* and perceiving a snow-topped moun- FORT OKANAGAN. 303 tain in the distance, I concluded the river must lie between it and ourselves, and accordingly made it my land- mark. Pursuing this direction a few hours with rapid speed, we came to a slope which gradually narrowed into a ravine, and introduced us at length to a spring of water. Our thirsty horses rushed into it, and it was with difficulty we could control their excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the water of wffiich continually gained acces- sions until it became a large stream, with a rich valley of alluvial bottom, and united its waters with the Columbia, a few miles above Fort Okanagan, the place of our destination. Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Co- lumbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from which, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the fort takes its name. It was first built by Mr. David Stu- art, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811. There is an open space of considerable extent around ; the soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but produ- cing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have contin- ued so long in its present channel, since leaving the Grand Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bottoms, which exist in many other parts of its course. After leaving the Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply timber for fuel, fencing or building.' They are dependent on flood- wood wffiich descends the river for their ordinary fuel, and the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far dis- tant, at the north there are snow-topped mountains, yet the country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place I had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe. Their personal appearance is less noble than the Spokeins, 304 OKANAGAN INDIANS. but they are not less peaceable, friendly and honest in their dispositions. This is evident from the fact that the charge of the fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, the superinten- dent, was committed temporarily to a Frenchman, and sev- eral of the Indians. This tribe with the Shooshaps number about two thousand persons. They are much employed in the salmon fishery, and large quantities are prepared by drying for the winter’s use. Their country does not abound in game, and hunting occupies but little of their time. The climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, is very mild and salubrious. Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a bateau which we obtained at this place ; and committed our horses to my Indian guides to take them across the country to Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men was without any suspicion, and I could trust them with our six horses, saddles and bridles, to go on any enterprise with- in their capacity to accomplish. They have so much self- respect that they would not on any account commit a. crime, which would expel them from their people, induce them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free- men. We embarked in our boat, June 2d, to perform a voyage of four hundred miles, with the river in full freshet; and its strong current increased by high water, secured to us a ve- locity beyond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and dashed over the breaking surges, where the least misman- agement would have caused inevitable submersion without any prospect of escape. But my voyageurs showed by their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favor- ite element, and their gayety and songs began to revive, on PETRIFIED TREE. 305 being relieved from the rough, and to them unpleasant jour^ ney on horseback, over hills and down ravines, and through forests. The elasticity of their native character was al- most immediately apparent, and we glided on with Celerity* making a voyage of one hundred miles before it was neces- sary to seek our safety for the night on shore. The coum try through which we passed to-day was rather mountain- ous. I saw many locations of granite in its natural state, but as we proceeded, volcanic operations began to appear* and the granite exhibited the effects of intense heat, until it wholly disappeared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and lava took its place. In the afternoon we passed a perpen- dicular section of rock, two hundred and fifty feet high ; half way to the top of which, a petrified tree of consider ble magnitude is suspended. It appears to be retained in its place by having its roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks* between the layers of different eruptions. How it procured its elevated situation is quite a mystery. It could not have vegetated there, unless at the time of its growth, it was sup* ported by a surface Upon which to rise ; and taking the pre- sent condition of the rocks, it could not be deposited there by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gen- tlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who navi- gate this river, have amused themselves by shooting off pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was wholly a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few miles above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles. On the 3d, as we approached the Long Rapids about fifty miles above Walla Walla they presented the appearance of waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their dis- tant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morning. To 27 306 LONG RAPIDS. pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires courage and self-possession ; but knowing that these inland navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating ex- cursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I an- ticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, cascades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying scene- ry of nature’s wildest and grandest forms, that keeps the mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable disposition of time, is pleasant. My voyageurs called my attention to a red lurid aspect of the atmosphere in the south, and said we should have a strong wind from that quarter. Their prognostication was soon realized. The gale did not last long, and the only remarkable feature was, that when it subsided, it was al- most instantaneously. Through the distance of about one hundred miles, which we passed to-day, the country is level and destitute of wood. I observed a bank of clay in layers of diversified struc- ture, such as I have often noticed. The different sections were of various colors ; some dusky red, some yellow, and blue, and others white, making an upright elevation of one hundred feet or more. Salmon are ascending the river in great numbers, and groups of Indians are scattered along pursuing the employ- ment of catching them. Wherever we passed them, they ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA. 307 came off in their canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of which were roasted in the best manner, and served up on broad pieces of bark, which answered a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and often large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the bark. Upon these we dined, with- out bread, vegetables, or salt. My voyageurs found suffi- cient employment in the gratification of their appetites, to interrupt for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived at Walla Walla at evening, just in season to find shelter from one of the most violent thunder storms, accompanied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Such storms are of rare occurrence west of the mountains. 303 SNAKE INDIANS, CHAPTER XXII. A summary of the Indians of the Upper country — names of the tribes their locations and numbers — leave Walla W^alla for Fort Vancou- ver — swift passage down the river — run the Falls — Cascades — dan- gerous eddy — arrive at Vancouver — steam boat excursion. Haying traveled over the most important parts of the upper country, and collected the facts of its physical condi- tion, together with the location, character, and condition of the most numerous tribes of Indians ; before leaving this section of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proper to give a connected summary of these par- ticulars. On the south part of the Oregon Territory, ad- joining Upper California, are located the Shoshones or Snake Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their definite numbers, but the general estimate is that they are more than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the most barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being cov- ered with scoria and other volcanic productions. These Indians are poor, and as indicative of their condition and their resources, they are called Snake Indians, and Root- diggers. Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buf- falo, and they very generally resort to the river in the sea- son of fishing. They have a tolerable supply of horses. When they go to Rendezvous they make a great display, advancing on horseback, dressed in their most fantastic manner, exhibiting all their ornaments of feathers, beads, wolf-tails, teeth and claws of animals, arranged according INDIANS— DIFFERENT TRIBES. 309 to their notions of good taste. The warriors are armed, hideously painted, and those who have been wounded in bat- tle are very fond of showing their scars. After coursing around and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, they dismount and go through the ceremony of shaking hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many of the Utaws at Rendezvous. Their country is situated to the east and south-east of the Shoshones, about the Salt Lake and on the head waters of the Colorado river, which empties into the gulf of California. They number nearly four thou- sand persons, and appear to be a mild and peaceable people, honest, kind, and hospitable to strangers, and affectionate among themselves. They live by hunting, fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their dress is plain, and their manners are unassuming. Their country being in latitude about 41°, has a fine climate, and good soil. Proceeding north, we come to the country of the Nez Perces, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage and is throughout a fine grazing country. They number about two thousand five hundred ; but they have already been often mentioned. The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez Perces, and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits and morals. They are equally peaceable, honest and hospitable to strangers. They number more than two thousand persons. Their wealth consist in horses, which are unusually fine and numerous ; it being no uncommon thing for one man to own several hundred. Their country, especially that about the Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spontane- ously cammas in great abundance, upon which, with fish and some game, they principally subsist. They express the same anxiety to be instructed as the Nez Perces and Flatheads. 27* 310 INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about the river of the same name, and range some distance below, along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employ- ments and moral habits, they do not materially differ from the last named tribes. The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perces, and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along the Nez Perce river and up the Pavilion. They number about three hundred. The four last named tribes speak the same language with a little dialectical difference. North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. They number about eight hundred persons, besides some small tribes adjoining them who might be counted a part of their nation. I have so fully described them that it is unneces- sary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie and woods, and a large part is of primitive formation, and some parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves the children of the sun, which in their language is Spokein. Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and hunting, together with gathering roots and berries. I have stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, which it is to be hoped will be generally adopted, so that their present precarious mode of living may give place to that which will be substantial. They have many horses, but not so numerous as their neighbors farther south. East of these are the Coeur d’Alene Indians, whose num- bers are about seven hundred, and who are characterized by civility, honesty, and kindness. Their country is more open than the Spokeins’, and equally, if not better adapted to agriculture. INDIANS — A CHIEF’S ANECDOTE. 311 The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and south-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. They are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their persons, no- ble, frank, and generous in their dispositions, and have al- ways shown a firm attachment to white men. They num- ber about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering life. For subsistence they follow the buffalo upon the head wa- ters of Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the head waters of the Missouri. They have become a small tribe by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians, though they themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disposition. Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands, and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civili- zation, and in Christianity. Their country is mountainous, but intersected with plea- sant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie. The mountains are cold, but in the valleys the climate is mild. An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which illustrates their native character, and the propensity of In- dians to imitation. He said the first white men he saw, was when he was young. It was summer. He said, “ These are a new people, they look cold, their faces are white and red ; go make a large fire, and I will ask them to come and warm them.” In a short time his people had made a fire, and brought new buffalo robes. The white men came into his lodge and he wrapped them in the robes and seated them by the fire that they might be warm. The robes slipped off ; he replaced them. Soon the white men made signs to smoke their pipe. The chief thought they asked for food, and brought them meat. The white men gave him the pipe, and he and his people smoked, 312 INDIANS 4 — DIFFERENT TRIBES. “ and after this they loved smoke, and they loved the white men, and said they were good.” The Ponderas are so like the Flatheads in person, man- ners, and character, that a particular description of them may be passed over. They number about two thousand tw^o hundred, and live on the north of Clarke’s river, and on a lake which takes its name from the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put un- der cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach them agriculture and to impart to them a knowledge of those things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros- perous community. Their language is the same as the Spokeins’ and Flatheads’. The Cootanies inhabit a section of country to the north of the Ponderas along M’Gillivray’s river, and are represented as an uncommonly interesting people. They speak a language distinct from all the tribes about them, open and sonorous, and free from gutturals, which are common in the language of the surrounding tribes. They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid and hon- est, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their num- bers, but probably they are not over a thousand. There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries are situated upon the waters of the north-east branch of the Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in their customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is un- necessary to go into a separate and particular description of each. I will mention the names, locations, and number of some of the principal tribes. North of the Cootanies are the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand. South of these are the Lake Indians, so named from their place of residence, which is about the Arrow Lakes. They are about five hundred in number. At the south, and about DESCEND THE RIVER. 313 Colvile, are the Kettle Falls Indians, who number five hun- dred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpauelish, one thousand in number; and below these are the Shooshaps, having a population of five hundred and seventy-five. At the west and north-west, next in order are the Okanagans, numbering one thousand fifty. To the north and west are several tribes, about whom I obtained no definite informa- tion. Between Okanagan and the Long Rapids are detach- ments of Indians, who appear poor, and wanting in that man- ly and active spirit, which characterizes the tribes above named. South of the Long Rapids, to the confluence of Lewis’ river with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans, a more active people, numbering about seven hundred. The whole number of the above named Indians is thirty-two thousand five hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a low esti- mate, and in the number, the Fall and La Dalles Indians are not included, nor many other numerous tribes residing at the north and south of the Falls of the Columbia, whose num- bers, I could not with certainty ascertain. We might more than double this number, and probably still come below the population of the upper country. The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came in safely, as I expected. After resting on the Sabbath, we renewed, on Monday the 6th, our voyage down the river, having Fort Vancouver for our next destination. We exchanged the bateau Tor a large canoe, retaining the men who attended me from Okanagan. Assisted by the high water, we made rapid progress until three in the afternoon, when a strong head wind compelled us to take to the land for the remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles. The Indians as usual came to us in their friendly manner, offering us salmon, and asking for 314 RUN THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA. tobacco, which they esteem more highly than either gold or silver. They have been accustomed to traffic in this commodity, until they expect it of every passing traveler. The morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got un- der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavor to effect a landing on the north, we were at length, without the power of controlling our canoe, and in much danger, driven across to the opposite shore ; and here for the first time in all my travels, I found it impossible to pitch my tent, such being the strength of the wind, that it would have been carried away. The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrap- ping myself in my blankets and buffalo robes, I laid me down in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit from the neighboring Indians. The following day we were able to resume our journey, and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday looked so forbidding. A little caution on the part of my experienced Frenchmen in regard to the numerous islands and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety. In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia, which, in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, follow- ed by raging rapids below. Bousheau, my steersman, pro- posed to run the falls, saying that there was no danger in full freshet, and that it would save a portage. We were then passing a section of the river where the banks were walled up with basalt ; and while I was revolving in my mind the chances of safety, I had concluded, that when we should come to the great basin below, I would be set on shore ; but when we came to the basin, the water of LA DALLES. 315 the river, rushing from the mural shores, formed impassa- ble breakers on the right and on the left, and onward we must go, let consequences be what they would. We kept near the middle of the river, which was free from breakers, though not from high surges. Soon, with ama- zing velocity, we were over the cataract of the mighty wa- ters, and made our way into a bay at the head of the first portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water from those stupendous mountains above, was so great, that the narrow channel of the La Dalles, studded with basaltic islands, so obstructed the passage of the river, that the falls were almost lost in the depth. Such were the eddies and surging of the water among the rocky islands in the narrow broken channel of the La Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe was so large that twenty Indians were not too many to carry it safely. Their mode of carrying is to invert it upon their heads and shoulders, and then it is with difficulty and danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines. When we came to the last portage, the Indians were not willing to take hold again unless we would pay them in powder and balls ; and although their demands were reasonable, yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and they would not perform the labor without the required articles. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential chief, to induce their men to perform the labor of making this last portage, and promised that I would send them the demand from Fort Vancouver, and for their security I would give them a talking paper. They stated to their people my proposal, and were about to succeed, when Tilki, the first chief, who had become familiar with an American trader, laughed at their credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people, that he 31 G DANGEROUS WHIRLPOOL. had seen me at the fort, and that he heard me teach the In- dians good things, and did not believe I would deceive them. He prevailed, and the men took hold of the work ; and in- four hours from passing the falls we were beyond the raging water, where we made our morning repast upon very fine salmon. Our passage during the remainder of the day was pleas- ant; we passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and landed for the night twelve miles above the Cascades. In this high state of the water, very few of the trees of the submerged forest were to be seen. On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades by hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, exclusive of one short portage, the distance of two miles to the great basin, or rather the great whirlpool below. This labor is attended with some danger, and cases, though not numerous, have occurred of the loss of lives and property. As I walk- ed along the shores, and over precipices, I saw the wrecks of several canoes and bateaux strewed upon the rocks. We embarked upon the great basin, at the lower part of which we passed into a rapid, where the main current took a dia- gonal course from the north towards the south shore. On both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as the only course of safety, we took the middle. We had not proceeded far before a large whirlpool, with a deep, devour- ing vortex formed almost directly before us, and as we were going forward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its circling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to the right. “ O don’t speak here,” was his reply. As we approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its waters rolling out from the centre, and all our strength was required to A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. 317 resist them, lest we should be thrown upon the breakers. We passed with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short time were upon the smooth surface of the tide waters below. The sensations excited in descending these Cascades are of that peculiar character, which are best understood by ex- perience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened than it subsides before the power and magnificence of the rolling surges, the circling vortices, and the roaring breakers. Let those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind, need arousing, try the navigation of the Columbia in high water, and their powers will be invigorated for almost any future enterprise. Such is the fascinating power, I had almost said magic of these scenes, that those who are accustomed to be employed upon these waters, though far away from home and kindred, become attached to this mode of life, and are reluctant to abandon it for any other. Each time the scenes ry of these interesting Cascades is beheld, new wonders unfold themselves. Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken fall of one hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison with the superior style of nature’s works here. Nor are these things created merely to attract our momentary admi- ration. Science in very many of its departments, may find subjects for investigation. While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the for- est, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them with his eye as they dart from bough Jto bough; his attention is ar- rested by the noble and majestic white headed eagle, as he takes his favorite perch upon the loftiest heights of some needle-pointed rock, or the summit of some leafless tree, or as he darts from thence upon his prey ; or his attention may be arrested by the daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent up- on the finny tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in 28 318 A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. my view. A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magni- tude, that the contest for a long time was doubtful, as the splashing water indicated, which should exchange its native element. The resistance was so great, that a disengage- ment was deemed the best policy. Here also the botanist, while he forbears to ascend the lofty mountains, which for him present an aspect of too much dreariness, may retire into the narrow receding val- leys, or wind his way over sunny hills in search of new genera of plants, or at least new species, with which to im- mortalize his name, and add to the stores of his favorite science. The geologist, while he admires the stupendous monu- ments of volcanic operations before him, may also find much to interest him in examining more minute formations. Along the rugged shores are scattered specimens of calee- dony, jasper, agate and cornelian. He may examine the cellules of the immense masses of amygdaloid ; the colum- nar basalt, and the mountains shooting up their denticulated forms and needle-points. His attention will be drawn to the examination of the lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and he will be interested in finding many dendrolites. When he looks at the deep channel through which the Columbia river finds its onward way to the Pacific ocean, if he doubts the agen- cy of God in forming the courses of the rivers, he may in- dulge his imagination in computing how long it has taken this river to wear down the immensely hard basalt a thou- sand feet ; and having ascertained how long it takes to wear any given depth, he may then make his mathematical conclusions how long the process has been going on. But if he is a Christian philosopher, while he admits second caus- es, he may look up to the great first Cause, and admire and ARRIVAL AT THE FORT. 319 adore; and not regarding baseless theories, may exclaim, “How wonderful are thy works, in wisdom hast thou made them all.” As we passed out of the mountain country about the Cas- cades, we found the wide valley below so inundated, as to present the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safely at the fort, found my friends well, and exchanged cordial congratulations. Sabbath, June 12th, 1 preached to the people of the fort, and in the evening had a third service, in which as hereto- fore, an opportunity was given to those present, to propose questions on any subject of religion about which they wished information. I was particularly gratified to find, that du- ring my absence, public worship had been maintained, and an effort had been made to bring the French Canadians to attend upon religious instruction. They are assembled twice on the Sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser- mon in French, are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin. I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the promised powder and balls, by Capt. Black, a gentleman of the Company, who in a few days was to leave Vancouver for his station north of Fort Okanagan. On the 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat Beaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the confluence of the western branch of the Multnomah; up this river into the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the Multnomah, and through it into the Columbia, and back to the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the annual freshet, and presented the appearance of an immense bay, extending far into the country. The day was pleasant and our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections upon 320 NAVIGABLE WATERS. the probable changes which would take place in these re- mote regions, in a very few years. It was wholly an un- thought of thing when I first contemplated this enterprise, that I should find here this forerunner of commerce and bu- siness. The gayety which prevailed was often suspended, while we conversed of coming days, when with civilized men, all the rapid improvements in the arts of life, should be introduced over this new world, and when cities and vil- lages shall spring up on the west, as they are springing up on the east of the great mountains, and a new empire be added to the kingdoms of the earth. The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Ore- gon Territory, and this is navigable for ships but one hun- dred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it is the only one which affords a harbor for large ships on the coast, from California to the 49° of north latitude. For bateaux and various other light craft, the Columbia and its branches are navigable a thousand miles. The internal navigation could not be much improved, unless at great expense, by canals around the rapids and falls, which are so numerous that ascending the river is now difficult. Still a considerable interior trade is carried on by means of these waters, and the ingenuity of men on the west, when it shall be more extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on the east, for greatly improving the intercourse of remote and differ, ent portions of this territory. GEOLOGY'. 321 CHAPTER XXIII. Geology. Having remarked on the features of the country through which I passed, as I proceeded, I shall now give a more connected and summary view of facts, the result of my ob- servations in relation to the geology of that hitherto unex- plored region. In remarking, however, on the observed facts, it cannot be expected that I should be able to give a complete view of the geology of so extensive a territory ; it being greater than the whole of the United States east of the Alleghany Mountains. The complexity, too, must be considered, of plainly marked phenomena, resulting from long continued igneous action, where both ancient and com- paratively recent products ate so blended, that time and much experience alone can resolve appearances, at first view inexplicable. Let the reader also add to this the cir- cumstances under which the author was compelled to note the data of his conclusions. He regrets that in his brief stay in the country, where many years are requisite fully to investigate ail its interesting phenomena, and in a field so rich, he could make but few measurements, and only judge in most cases by approximate modes. As to the strict scientific accuracy of his statements, he deems it no more than just to say, that while he doubts not that the facts he details are worthy the attention of scientific men, and are correct in re , so that perfect reliance may be placed on them, yet he feels himself to have wanted that almost intu- 322 GEOLOGY. itive knowledge, which he alone possesses who has long been a field-laborer. With these considerations the author presents the result of his observations, hoping the reader may find much that is valuable respecting these regions of the setting sun, re- plete as they are with interest, arising from grandeur both of scenery, and of developments of the modes and effects of the operations of the great geological agents ; especially of that element, which in time past has wrought such chan- ges, and is yet gradually and more unperceivedly produ- cing them ; where it has played all its frantic freaks, and then quietly left this spot with so few superimposed materi- als, that well developed phenomena may be leisurely ex- amined. My design is first to give a general view of the rocks of Oregon — then state a few facts in the form of remarks or descriptions — and then add a brief catalogue of minerals found in this Territory. After leaving the great secondary valley of the Missis- sippi, near the Black Hills, which are a range of lesser mountains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the geologist be- gins to find rocks of the Carboniferous Group, obscurely manifest beneath the deep soil, and anthracite coal in loose fragments on the banks of streams running into the Platte. Among and beyond the Black Hills, the carboniferous strata are clearly seen, the coal “ cropping out” and presenting precisely the same features as did the Wilksbarre beds in Pennsylvania, when I saw them, before they were worked. Here, for several days, we rode over rocks, interspersed now and then with anthracite, and having marks of the presence of iron, as is usual in regular coal deposits. Passing this, the geologist next reaches another group, GEOLOGY. 323 either the upper secondary, or more recent rocks, lying at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. I was inclined to believe, from the fact that I was apparently geologically rising, as well as really ascending above the level of the ocean, that they were the latter. Red Shale, or sandstone, I found in what are termed the Red Butes. Perhaps this is New Red Sandstone. Reaching the Rocky Mountains, which are a continuation of the Andes, depressed in Mexico, Granite becomes abun- dant, and other primary rocks, extending to an unknown dis- tance north and south, and more than a hundred miles east and west. This section, mostly covered with perpetual snow, affords ample space for the study of glacial geologi- cal action, a subject now eliciting much attention. The valley through which we passed remarkably indicates the overruling hand of Providence, in providing an easy pass, where no serious obstacle presents itself to the construction of a rail-road. This and other valleys would undoubtedly, with facilities for observation, give equal opportunities to discover the formation of this vast chain, as has been done in regard to the great rocky ranges of the Eastern Con- tinent. Advancing westward, and emerging from the Rocky Mountains, there is found immediately at their base Secon- dary Rocks ; but as we approach the borders of one of the great volcanic furnaces of the world, they are much bro- ken and tilted up, presenting some singular phenomena which I have mentioned in the journal, such as the forma- tion of narrow ridges with the strata at different angles. In some places these dyke-like ridges are nearly regular in size and distance, as though cracked by an upheaving force, and the fissures filled afterwards with earth ; and in other 324 GEOLOGY. places existing in wedge- form masses, interspersed between other rocks, and having other varieties of dislocation. The lithological character of the tract, over which we rode for two days, corresponds with that of the new red sandstone of the valley of the Connecticut. There are deposits both of the red and slaty colored strata — and their depth seems to be quite great, as is evinced by bluffs. But, as I observed no organic remains, my inclination to believe that these rocks are the new red sandstone, is founded only on their mineral character, and the fact, a very important one, that they appear directly to underlay the saliferous rocks, or to lie immediately above them. Should these rocks, which are quite extensive, prove to be new red sandstone, it adds no little to the interest of the geology of a country so rich in other respects. Perhaps, as red rocks of the same kind lie on each side of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proved hereafter, that the range was elevated through a deposit of shale or new red sandstone. Directly after leaving the red sandstone, and passing a belt of volcanic operations, which also are found among the red and slaty rocks just described, (as will be seen by ref- erence to the Trois Tetons, the Butes, and other conical mountains, as exhibited on the map.) Saliferous Rocks are seen. Here is Native Salt, Chloride of Sodium , and red, green, brown, and white strata of indurated marl, agreeing in character with the geological features of the Bochnia and Wieliezka mines of Poland. These rocks also occupy quite a tract of country, as we were several days in passing them, and they seemed to reach both north and south of the locality of rock salt, as is proved by the existence of the great Salt Lake at the south ) and travelers assert that natire rock salt is found GEOLOGY. 325 to the north, and especially far to the south, near the Rocky Mountain range.* We have now arrived at Oregon proper, and find it a vast amphitheatre of volcanic operations, where are exhibited in unexcelled magnificence, variety and distinctness, the pro- ductions of several periods. The Greenstone, found in connexion with the new red sandstone and saline rocks, undoubtedly belongs to the same period as that of other countries. The Columnar Basalt, corresponding as it does with other similar eruptions in the eastern world, is probably cotempo- raneous with them. The same identity of time may be traced in regard to the trachyte, obsidian, clinkstone or phonolite, and other products, after allowing for difference of circumstances of pressure, and rapidity of refrigeration. Recent eruptions also have taken place. The traces of igneous action, commencing near the Rocky Mountains, or mountains adjacent to them, in the sec- ondary rocks, are evinced by the disturbed state of these rocks, as already described, and grow more and more evi- dent until almost the whole region exhibits volcanic pro- ducts. In other places, the Primary of the Rocky Moun- tains, or mountains west of this range, first begins to be cracked and injected with dykes, then farther west termi- nates in the vast volcanic field of upper and lower Oregon. It is in vain to attempt fully to describe the volcanic op- erations here presented. Mountains of amygdaloid, the cavities of which are mostly vacant ; volcanic conglomer- ate, detritus, columnar basalt, and disintegrated lava, every where abound, together with other less frequent produc- * See Ures’ Geology, page 373, and Professor Rogers’ Report to the British Geological Association. 326 GEOLOGY. tions ; obsidian, clinkstone, pitchstone, and minerals found in the cavities of amygdaloid. The tops of hills and moun- tains are sometimes spread out into horizontal plains, others terminate in conical peaks or are rounded like domes. Escarpments are frequently presented like that in the plate heading this chapter. Regular craters, presenting them- selves in the form of cones and concave depressions, are often found in plains, or capping the summits of mountains ; most of them, however, are more or less obscured by the lapse of time, but still as marked as the extinct craters of the Sandwich Islands. The marked volcanic agency, man- ifesting itself in these and similar products, and completely occupying most of the country which we have termed upper and lower Oregon, continues to be evident until lost in the waters of the Pacific. In some places the Primary rocks seem again to be found on the western coast. Near the mouth of the Columbia I noticed a few Tertiary rocks lying in situ , and obtained a few shells belonging to this deposit. Whether there is on the North West Coast a regular Terti- ary basin, partly on shore, and the rest under the ocean, remains to be determined. Queen Charlottes island on the north is, at least in part, primary. Primary rocks rise in various parts of the country, and are like islands in the vast volcanic field. Such are the Salmon river mountains, and the granite near the Spokein river, and other places. We have thus glanced at the rocks of Oregon as we pass westward. In relation to their extent in a northerly and southerly direction, I am unable to say much. There is evidence that igneous action has extended from Queen Charlottes island to California. Of the extent of the Salif- erous rocks, I have remarked. That they extend from north GEOLOGY. 327 of the locality where I found native salt, south into Mexico, appears quite certain. Having remarked thus much in general terms, I will proceed to give a few facts without much order, some, if not all of which, might have baen included in my descrip- tion of the great changes in the rocks. The plate at the head of this chapter demands a more definite explanation than has been given in former editions. It substantially describes a frequent escarpment of volcanic rocks, such as is found in nearly every part of Oregon. The place designed to be represented by it is below the junction of the Cooscootske with the Lewis river. With some variations it is applicable to a mural escarpment sev- eral miles below the Cascades on the Columbia. Similar mural escarpments are found in the Spokein country, and at the Grand Coule or ancient bed of the Columbia. The needle-points on the right of the plate are found most dis- tinctly marked just below the Cascades, though they occur at numerous other places. Indeed this is not an unfre- quent form of basalt west of the Rocky Mountains. The first strata marked in the plate above what is intend- ed for the shore of the river, is irregular massive amygda- loid. In some localities similar to that from which the plate is taken, there is found a conglomerate underlaying this strata. The next or second strata of the plate, is volcanic breccia or conglomerate, composed of detritus, and angular fragments mixed with earthy matter, and is perhaps what some call volcanic tufa. This brecciated layer is more or less hard and compact, varying however very much in dif- ferent localities, and is in all cases only a few feet thick. The third strata is columnar basalt, regularly crystalized in pentagons about two feet in diameter. In other places 828 GEOLOGY. they vary in size from one to four or more feet in diameter. It is in all the localities where I noticed it, closely jointed, with the convex surface upwards, like the basalt of the Gi- ants Causeway. The fourth is a brecciated layer. The fifth on the left, is columnar basalt, and on the right, amygda- loid in juxtaposition with the basalt. The sixth is a brec- ciated layer. The seventh and uppermost is a semi-crys- talized basalt on the left, and needle -pointed basalt on the right. The semi-crystalized basalt very nearly resembles the Palisades on the Hudson river, and the greenstone of East and West Rocks at New Haven, and the more distinct crystals found in Mt. Tom and Mt. Holyoke. For the latter see Hitchcock’s Geo. 1st ed. page 73. In a description of bluffs and banks of rivers, where there are mural escarpments similar to that from which the plate is taken, I have numbered from ten to twenty strata of amygdaloid, basalt, and. brecciated layers, which appear to have been thrown up in different periods, through craters, fissures or chasms, rising in succession one above another. In some locations the lowest formation is pudding stone ; on this amygdaloid, varying in thickness from a few feet to twenty or thirty ; and then above this a stratum of angular fragments of basalt and amygdaloid, frequently intermixed with lava, which I have termed the brecciated layer. This strata generally appears to have been exposed for a period to atmospheric agencies, until in some degree decomposed, and upon this the alternating strata as described above, in- dicating so many different eruptions ; the whole series rising from fifty to several hundred feet. The brecciated layers are only a few feet in depth, and appear to have been for a long period the surface, after which a new eruption has again overspread the whole. In one section of the high BASALTIC FORMATIONS o.x the COLUMBIA RIVER GEOLOGY. 329 walls of the Grand Coule, far up the sides, instead of the breccia is presented a depth of yellow earth of six or eight feet, and upon this several strata of basalt and amygdaloid, as above described, in like manner exhibiting proof that this section for a long time constituted the surface. Thus it appears that the internal fires have had long intervals of re- pose, and then have again sent forth their volcanic sub- stances. The probability is, that they were thus in opera- tion for centuries, but with a few exceptions, have ceased for centuries past, so that time has been given for atmos- pheric agencies to decompose the volcanic productions, suf- ficiently to form a soil covering most parts of the country. The enquiry naturally arises, whether it may not be on ac- count of the great internal fires of this country, that the temperature is so much warmer on the west side of the mountains than on the east; for it is an interesting fact, that the eastern side of North America, in given parallels of latitude, is the coldest, while the western in the same par- allels, is the warmest part of the world. And may not this arise from the comparative recency, as well as extent and depth of the volcanic operations which have pervaded this whole region of the setting sun.* The length of time, which immense masses of lava and other volcanic matter retain heat, is well known, and needs no remark. May not the climate thus be affected in Oregon ? Among other localities of columnar basalt, the columns * By reference to the annexed meteorological table it will be seen, from observations taken between the 45th and 46th degrees of north latitude, that in th^ winter of 1835 — 6, the greatest cold was but 10° below the freezing point, and this for three mornings only — and du- ring the month of March there were but two mornings in which there was any frost. 29 330 GEOLOGY. of which are regular crystalized pentagons, a distinguished one is on the high lands dividing the waters of the Snake and Spokein rivers. The formations of this locality have many interesting characteristics, as described on page 290. Another below the Cascades of the Columbia, where the regular pentagonal columns wall up the north side for the distance of half a mile. Here are also found all the va- rieties of volcanic productions; — volcanic peaks, as diver- sified in their forms as they are numerous, being conical, denticulated, and needle-pointed ; varying in magnitudes, and rising one above another from ten feet to fifteen hun- dred feet. These occur almost entirely upon the south side. There are also numerous islands of basalt in the Columbia river and its branches, elevated often much above high freshet water. These are numerous iu the La Dalles, and in the ancient bed of the Columbia, or Grand Coule. These islands are the same in form and substance as the dykes which exist in various parts of the country. There is something similar to these Needles in what I have termed the Pillars, where one or two such needles occur alone, and rise some hundred feet. They are basalt, and so hard and comparatively smooth, that I can account in no other way for their production, than that they are dykes that have been injected into soft rock, or soil, which' has since been removed by other agencies. The most re- markable instance of this is the PillarRock at the lower part of the rapids, below the Cascades, at the head of the tide water of the Columbia. It is about five hundred feet high ; and is perpendicular on the river side, and nearly so on the other sides ; and is wholly isolated upon a nar- row strip of bottom land, with a small base, and its appear- GEOLOGY. 331 ance resembles a vast monument. Another such needle is found in the river near the mouth of the Columbia, and standing alone makes a very conspicuous object. Another result of volcanic agency is seen in the Primary rocks, which are cracks or fissures, through which gaseous products have escaped, without forming a crater, and indeed ( without ejecting any igneous solid matter. One locality of this kind presents a result somewhat peculiar. It is on ele- vated land near the Spokein river. Here are hundreds of regular cones, varying from a few feet in diameter and height, to a hundred or more in diameter at their base, and fifty or sixty feet high. They are made up of angular fragments of granite, from an inch to six or eight inches in size, and stand on a sandy plain now covered with yellow pine, apparently disturbed only at the places where these cones have broken through it. At a short distance south was granite in situ . Beside these cones was a dyke visible a hundred rods or more, the only other evidence of a dis- turbing force. These piles of fragments seem to have been made by the escape of steam or gas, for they appear as if 1 smoked by a fire from within the cones. The Salmon river mountains afford another example similar to this. An ir- regular circular space of a hundred acres or more is cov- ered with immense quantities of granite broken into cubical and angular fragments, as though prepared for Macadami- zing the future turnpikes of Oregon. These mountains, though mere islands of mica slate and granite in the great volcanic field, are quite extensive, and in addition to the breaking up of the granite by igneous forces, are also perforated by vents or chimneys, through which lava has escaped. One of the highest points of the mountains which lay in my route, was one of these. It is 332 GEOLOGY. a granite mountain with the top capped by a volcanic cone, rising like an immense pyramid. The passage in some places of granite into basalt, is easily traced, and the first igneous appearance is not a change of the structure, but multiplied fractures increase, until you find the granite bro- ken into large fragments, and these diminishing in size, until they disappear in the distinct characteristics of volcanic agency, in which it is changed into a substance resembling trachyte ; if it has not become trachyte itself, while in situ. Smaller sections of granite are scattered over the country in forms of less dimensions, protruding from the earth ; but these are of somewhat rare occurrence. We have said that recent igneous action has taken place. A well authenticated instance occurred in August 1831. There was at this time at Fort Vancouver and vicinity, an uncommonly dark day which was thought to have been caused by an eruption of a volcano. The whole day was nearly as dark as night, except a slight red, lurid appear- ance, which was perceptible until near night. Lighted can- dles were necessary through the day. The atmosphere was filled with ashes which were very light, like the white ashes of wood ; all having the appearance of being produced by great fires, and yet none were known to have been in any part of the whole region around. The day was perfectly calm, without any wind. For a few days after, the fires out of doors were noticed to burn with a bluish flame, as though mixed with sulphur. There were no earthquakes. By observations which were made after the atmosphere be- came clear, it was thought the pure, white, perpetual snow upon Mount St. Helens was discolored, presenting a brown appearance, and therefore it was concluded, that there had been upon it a slight eruption. The Indians say they have GEOLOGY. 333 seen fires in the chasms of Mount Flood. Tilk!, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of more than ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen fires in the fis- sures of rocks in the last named mountain.* Though I have improved every opportunity which has been presented to make observations, and have also made many enquiries of men who have traveled extensively and for a long time in different parts of this country, some of whom are men of science, yet no evidence of fossil remains have been noticed, with the exception of a very few speci- mens. 1 saw a small shell, a Turritella, which was found in a mountain south of Mount Hood, in the Callapooa country. Also a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve shells, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary formation. The largest specimens which I took, measure, longitudinal- ly, four and a half inches from the hinge, and transversely, five. They are very perfect, beautifully scalloped, and have all the lustre of living shells. Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, is walled up on its sides and studded with islands of basaltic rocks, rising in perpendicular height from twenty to four hundred feet ; the question forces itself upon the mind, what agency formed the channel of the Columbia and other rivers flowing through ridges and mountains of hard basalt? Un- doubtedly the action of water has worn the rock very con- siderably and effected changes, but perhaps by no principle of its action can it be supposed, that it has 'produced so long and so deep a channel, as the one through which the river * Since the publication of the above in other editions, I have been credibly informed that lava was ejected at that tim.e from Mount St 0> Helens. 29 * 334 GEOLOGY. flows, and through such solid rock formations, differing but little from iron in hardness. That the channels of rivers owe their existence to other causes than the action of water, is no new idea. Indeed very many are now described as formed otherwise. In relation to the channels of the Con- necticut and its branches, see Prof. Hitchcock’s Geo. page 167, 1st edit. While I believe that Providence operates by means, yet I doubt not there are phenomena which are, and ever may remain unresolved. While conversing in relation to the channel of the Columbia with some literary gentle- men who had frequently passed up and down this river, after several theories were proposed, none of which could bear the test even of probability, one of them remarked, he had been reminded of his boyish sports, when he had dammed up water, and then with his finger drawn a channel through the sand for the water to run ; so it seemed to him that God had drawn a channel for the Columbia. If we do not keep in view the overruling hand of God as a landmark in our investigations, but look to nature, at work in her great laboratory, the earth, as our only guide to teach us precisely how the earth was formed, we shall, at least, be in danger of wandering into mazes from which we shall not be able to extricate ourselves. The condition of the country on the western side of the Rocky Mountains, differing as it does in the species of its animals, birds, and plants, from that of the eastern side, gives us a view which shows what may be the truth in re- lation to regions of the earth now buried, and which per- haps are regarded as belonging to different Periods, though in fact contemporaneous. Yet in all such cases marks of iso- chronism, or the want of it, doubtless could be found, and with proper care would convince the experienced geologist GEOLOGY. 335 of their diversity or identity in time. Compare the two sides of North America as they now are, and notice the difference which exists in their animals and productions. Let now the whole of the northern part of this continent be submerged, and after a long time be again elevated to its present position, and let future generations examine its fossil remains, and by the rules very generally laid down, would they not conclude that the section on the east side, and that on the west side of the mountains, indicate two different periods of submersion, and that there was a long intermediate period of tranquility between them ? Would not the different genera and species of vegetables and animals lead to this conclusion? Would they not, from the evident difference of temperature of cli- mate in the same latitudes on the east and on the west, con- clude, if there was not a careful search made for other marks to show disparity or identity of time, that the west- ern section was submerged, at a period when the earth was much warmer than at a period when the eastern section was submerged ? This would be a rational and legitimate conclusion from the rule, that in strata of the same class, dissimilar organic remains belong to a different period of time, and were deposited under a different condition of the globe. And the gigantic balsam firs, found in the west and not found in the .east, would as clearly prove a different cli- mate in the same latitude, and therefore a different period of submersion, as the gigantic, ferns prove a different tem- perature of the earth, and of course a different period of time, in which they were deposited. On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, measuring from five to eight feet in diameter, and between one and two hundred feet in height, would be found so numerous as to constitute whole forests. Also the alder of various diame- 336 GEOLOGY. ters, from the small to those of two feet, and proportionably tall ; and the rush varying from four to ten feet long, and proportionably large. While the fir, the alder, and rush, would be found on the east side, they would be mere dwarfs in comparison with those on the west, and also very sparse. And many genera of trees and plants would be found on the one side, which would not be found on the other. On the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar maple, elm, and many other kinds of trees. And of animals, there would not be found any of the present fossils of the east, nor the ox, the ass, the swine, nor common sheep — the buffalo would be found east and in the mountains, but hardly be- yond. To what strange conclusions, without great care and close examination, should we come, if such data simply were received ! If such is now the difference of vegeta- bles and animals, between the country on the east, and the country on the west of our continent, and in the same lati- tude, may not mistakes be made in regard to different for- mations, and different periods of time in which they have taken place. Especially when periods are so remote, and the minute exploration of the earth confined to so small limits. Far the greatest part of the soil of Oregon is formed from decomposed lava and other like substances, reduced by at- mospheric agencies, which forms a fine rich black mold. Some parts, however, are in a different condition ; such as the great desert of the Shoshones or Snake country, which lies between two ranges of mountains, and extends three hundred or more miles in a southeasterly direction, with an average width of about one hundred miles. This desert, occupying as it does so many square miles, is to a great extent covered with scoria and other volcanic matter, which GEOLOGY. 337 from their nature renders it a barren region. Other tracts of country are argillaceous. In several localities, escarp- ments of clay, diversified in structure, are presented. The layers are from a few inches, to twenty feet in thickness. Their colors are dusky red, brown, blue, green, yellow, and in some instances pure white, and not unfrequently more or less indurated. Still, other tracts are calcarious ; and some parts, especially near the Rocky Mountains, are covered with a silicious sand, mixed with volcanic detritus ; while few, and only few parts of the country afford vegeta- ble mold. By reference to the map between Okanagan and Walla Walla, the dotted line, as will be seen, describes the Grand Coule. By some cause the Columbia has been turned from its ancient bed, and made to take a new and more circui- tous course. The old channel has islands rising above what was once the level of the water ; and as previously men- tioned, high mural escarpments are found on its sides. Another fact worthy to be mentioned, is the subsidence on the Columbia. It is twenty or more miles long, and about a mile wide. See page 141. What I suppose to be another subsidence occurs on the summit level which divides the waters of the Snake and Spokein rivers. See page 290. Rivers are found which disappear and again reappear from under volcanic products,* which is no new phenomena in other volcanic countries. Two such rivers are put down on the map south of Henry’s Fork. Limestone does not abound here ; indeed it is questiona- ble whether it exists except in very detached and small quantities. One location of magnesian limestone, I observ- ed in the neighborhood of the Sulphur Spring, which I have 338 GEOLOGY. already described. The lime used at Fort Vancouver, is made of rock coral, imported for ballast in vessels return- ing from the Sandwich Islands. In the vicinity of the Sul- phur Spring was a quantity, though not very extensive, of gypsum. The only marble I noticed was a mountain situ- ated a short distance below the confluence of the Spokein with the Columbia. In parts which I examined, I discover- ed it to be saccharine white, and variegated blue. A spe- cimen of the first I have preserved. Situated as it is on a navigable river, it will most probably become in time a source of wealth. In the region of Pierre’s Hole, and still farther west, there is clinkstone of marked and distinctive character, in great abundance, and in the same vicinity obsidian in large quan- tities. From the dark color of this, and also of basalt gen- erally, I detected the presence of augite. Obsidian is found in very many places throughout the country, and towards the ocean, in small quantities, it is a resinous white. Lava is abundant in many places, in all the varieties of color in which it is usually found, sometimes dusky red, yellowish, gray, and black, of different degrees of hardness and gravity, some being compact, some cellular, and often so light as to float upon water. Trachyte is also found among the varieties of lava. Most of the varieties of the precious stones, such as cal- cedony, agate, jasper, and cornelian, are found upon the shores of the Columbia, Willamette, and the large branches of these rivers. While they vary in size, forms, and colors, many of them are very pure and beautiful, and might be improved to great brilliancy in the hands of the artist. Por- phyry of different textures and quality is frequently met with, gome of which resembles the precious stones in fineness. GEOLOGY. 330 I saw no anthracite coal after leaving the region of the Black Hills on the east of the mountains; bituminous coal, of which I saw a quantity, is obtained from a locality near Pugets Sound, and brought for use to Fort Vancouver. It is an interesting fact that Mineral Rock Salt exists in its native state, in a section of mountains on the south side of the Salmon river, before entering the Salmon river moun- tains. It crops out from the side of a mountain, a little above the base. I saw the mine and examined specimens of it, and took of it for future use. It is pure and white, and contains less of the water of crystalization than common salt. The geological formations in the immediate vicinity, so nearly resemble those described in the neighborhood of the mineral salt mines of Poland, as to induce the belief that it exists in great abundance. It was peculiarly grateful to me in the circumstances in which l was placed, and the best testimony I can give to the quality is, that I found it very useful while compelled to subsist on game. Salt is also found in a crystalized state upon the shores of the great Salt Lake, the waters of which are so strongly impregnated, that large quantities are deposited. How wise and kind is the disposition of the products of nature, and how well adapted to the wants of all his creatures has the hand of a beneficent Father distributed his blessings ; and here, at so great a remove from all the facilities of com- merce, He has laid up in store one of the most necessary and useful articles of domestic use. But few Mineral Springs have as yet been discovered. The most remarkable are, the Soda fountain on Bear river, about forty-five miles north of Salt Lake, remarkable for the quantity of carbonic acid gas which is evolved, but not hav- ing been analyzed, its particular mineral properties are not 340 GEOLOGY. ascertained, and the general remark only can be made, that it greatly resembles the Saratoga waters ; — the Sulphur Spring to the south of the Trois Tetons , on a branch of Henry’s fork, around which large quantities of pure sulphur are deposited, and from which sulphureted hydrogen escapes, and its annoying properties are perceptible more than eighty rods distant ; — and the hot springs in the great range of the Rocky Mountains, some of which are said to furnish the mountain men a convenient place to boil their food. Sulphate of magnesia, (epsom salts) purely native, exists in immense quantities in and on both sides of the mountains. Lakes or pools, which the heat of summer principally evap- orates, abound in this region, exhibiting crystalized salts in great quantities. Spicular crystals of the same salt shoot up on the surface of the ground, effloresced to such a de- gree as to present the appearance of fields whitened with snow. No indications of Metalic Ores have yet been noticed in any part of Oregon Territory. GENERAL REMARKS. 341 CHAPTER XXIV. General remarks — Meteorological table. Having explored the most important parts of this terri- tory, and gained all the information within my reach, as to the several objects proposed in my instructions from the Board of Foreign Missions; and especially having ascer- tained to my entire satisfaction two most prominent facts* namely, the entire practicability of penetrating with safety to any and every portion of the vast interior, and the dispo- sition of the natives in regard to my mission among them* it remained that the most feasible and expeditious mode of returning should next be consulted. I could expect to ac~ v quire but little additional knowledge in traversing the route to Rendezvous ; and the necessary delay of several months, it seemed could be avoided by a return by water. The Hudson Bay Company were about to send a ship to the Sandwich Islands, in which I was kindly offered a gra- tuitous passage. On the other hand, my friendship with gentlemen of this establishment, my regard for the spiritual welfare of the benighted men for whose good I had for many a weary day pursued my>object, over mountains and plains, hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of cli- mate and weather ; and especially a desire to see in this whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and to be able to give them personally, instead of by letter, the result of my collected information, as a guide to them in their in- cipient labors; all these held me riveted to the spot, and un- 30 342 DEPARTURE FOR OAHU — -"REFLECTIONS. decided as to my course. At length after consultation with my most judicious friends, I concluded to take passage in the barque Columbia for Oahu, in the hope that an early opportunity would present to return to the United States. In taking leave of this country and the work in which I have so long been engaged, a train of reflections crowds upon my mind. The future condition of this noble race of men is a subject of interesting enquiry to many others as well as to myself. Whether the Indians are to pass away before the increasing power and numbers of white men, or whether enlightened and improved by their philanthropy, they shall arise in the scale of intellectual and moral ex- istence, is a problem which time alone can solve. I entered on the work of exploring this field with no bias or precon- ceived opinion, and from critical and personal observation, I hesitate not to say that I can see no reason existing in the nature of things, or in their present condition, which ne- cessarily dooms the race to annihilation on the one hand, or on the other, necessarily makes them objects of apprehen- sion, as the future hordes who shall in coming time, like the northern barbarians of Roman days, be reserved as the scourge of an overgrown and decaying republic. If to do good be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of freemen from their depression, and to place them in the rank of intelligent men, be not an undertaking fraught with as much promise and encouragement, as it was in earlier days to elevate our ancestors. In favor of this opinion, we have the docility of the Indians in every thing pertaining to their improvement; in the sprightliness of their youth and children ; and in the amiableness of their native tem- pers and dispositions. I take nothing of this upon testimony. REFLECTIONS. 343 In all my intercourse with them, I saw, with only one ex- ception, no angry or malevolent passions in exercise in their little communities. I tremble for the consequences, when I reflect on the wrongs inflicted upon this race of men. Able pens have portrayed in vivid colors, their injuries and abuses, and hu- manity has wept. Were but the one hundredth part spread out to view, we should recoil at the sight. The life of an Indian, in the estimation of our border and refugee men who visit their country, is nothing worth. Theirs is a land where' white men regard no law, but superior cunning, and superior force, bear rule. It was related to me that Cap- tain S., an English officer in half pay, while traveling through the Indian country, lost a horse which he highly valued, and believing it to be stolen by an Indian, offered five hundred dollars for his head. One of a lawless band, a half Indian who was present, went in pursuit, and returned with the head of the person charged with the theft, and de- manded his reward. To make out the sum Captain S. gave him two horses, calling each $250. This ended the affair. Mr. Wyeth in a memoir, embodied in a Report of a Com- mittee of Congress, on the Oregon question, says “ The preponderance of bad character is so great amongst traders and their people, that crime carries with it little or no shame. I have heard it related among white American trappers, as a good joke, that a trapper who had said he would shoot any Indian, whom he could catch stealing his traps, was seen one morning to kill one ; and, on being asked if the Indian had stolen his traps, he answered No, but he looked as if he was going to.” These are only specimens. I have been much pleased to notice among the benevolent operations of the present day, the formation of a society in 344 REMARKS. England, which I regard as among not the least benevolent » viz. “ An Aborigines Protection Society,” from whose “Plan and Objects,” I quote, as expressing most fully my own sen- timents. “ Among these tribes, our imported diseases pro- duce frightful ravages, our ardent spirits deprave and con- sume their population, our unjust laws exclude them from enjoying that first element of well-ordered societies, judical protection, as well as from the possibility of a timely incor- poration with colonial communities ; while, in addition to all these evils, our neglect of suitable means and methods of improvement, prevents that adoption of civilized manners and customs to which they are inclined. It is impossible for us as men, patriots, philanthropists, or Christians, to be- hold without anxiety, the ruin of the people whom we are accessary in supplanting, unless our future modes of colo- nization be directed with greater humanity and wisdom than in times past.” I have in several places made mention of the superior mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Mountains, and that the seasons are divided into the wet and dry; the rainy season commencing about the first of November, and the dry about the first of May. The following meteorological table, which was taken with care, will give a general speci- men , METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 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DEPARTURE FOR SANDWICH ISLANDS. 357 CHAPTER XXV. The voyage commenced for the Sandwich Islands— passage in the Beaver down the river— take passage in the barque Columbia — de- tention in Chenook bay — arrival at the islands — worship in the native church — description of Oahu — the Pari — the valley of Manoa — description of Honolulu — of Waititi— heathen temple — Eva — Waialua — Keneohe — mountains — salt lake — geology — natural pro- ductions — animals— government — tea party of the royal family — dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise — decrease of population — unfair negotiations — foreign residents — charity school —seamen’s chapel-burying place of the royal family — missionary success. On the 18th of June, according to previous arrangements, I took passage in the steam-ship Beaver for Fort George, to join the barque Columbia for the Sandwich Islands. As the Beaver was commencing her first voyage upon the Pacific, under the power of steam, destined for the north- west coast, the people of the fort, and those residing around, assembled upon the shore of the Columbia, and as she moved majestically from her anchorage, they saluted us with cheers, which were reciprocated by all on board, and they responded, “ A happy voyage, a prosperous voyage.” The ship an- chored at night a little above Tongue Point ; and the next day, after being detained upon a sand bar, from which the tide after awhile set us free, we arrived at Fort George. The next day, the 20th, my friend Mr. Finlayson, and a few 31 * 358 GREAT CAVE. others took a ramble on the shores below. The verdure of the trees and plants, the red indigenous clover in full sweet- ness in the desert, and the mildness of the season, all com- bined to make the scene enchanting. It was on the shore of this bay where I collected the large bivalve shell petri- factions, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary formation, as described in the chapter foregoing. No vol- canic appearances were visible in the immediate vicinity. On the 21st, I embarked on board the Columbia, and we dropped down to the Chenook Bay, and anchored just above Cape Disappointment. Here for the want of favor- able wind and tide, we were detained until the 28th. While we continued here, I made several excursions on shore ; as- cended the cape, which is probably about four hundred feet high, and from which a fine prospect of the Pacific and its shores is presented as far as the eye can reach. The shore is generally bold and rocky, furnishing no other harbor near. The country around is rocky and densely covered with for- ests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore, on the west end of the cape, a large cave extends into the volcanic rocks the distance of one hundred and fifty feet. We pen- etrated into its gloomy recesses, and from the bones of ani- mals strewed around within, we concluded it must be the retreat of some of those beasts of prey which inhabit these forests and coasts. About the cape at different places, grow the large orange- yellow raspberries of a new species. The shrubbery often grows to the height of twenty feet, and more generally in the forests than in open places, and equally fruitful. They are more inviting to the eye than agreeable to the taste. While we were detained here, our men belonging to the Columbia caught a large number of codfish. They taste ARRIVAL AT OAHU. 359 very much like, and resemble those taken upon the banks of Newfoundland, excepting they are a little shorter. This is the first time they were known to exist in these waters ; the Indians knew nothing of them before, and they eagerly took those we did not need. On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light wund, though ahead, and the tide favoring, the Beaver weighed anchor and put out to sea for her northern voyage. She went over the bar finely, and could have towed us over, but it being her first experiment, it was not thought advi- sable. On Tuesday the 28th, the wind and tide were favorable for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past three in the afternoon. There was a heavy rolling sea ; and every man was at his post, one on each side of the ship constantly throw- ing the lead to take the sounding. Four fathoms and a half was the least, and this was little enough considering the heavy swell. The bar has a very bold termination ; for we passed from seven fathoms to no sounding, where the sea presented its dark blue. The land receded, and in a few hours disappeared ; and nothing was to be seen but one wide expanse of ocean. Our voyage to Oahu,* Sandwich Islands, was attended with nothing remarkable, except- ing that it was performed in much shorter time than usual, being only sixteen days from the time we left the Colum- bia river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We took our direct course, and kept it without any variation, and with a few exceptions without shortening a sail, the distance of two thousand five hundred miles. An almost entire uniformity marked our progress, and excepting the * Pronounced Wauhoo. 360 PUBLIC WORSHIP. common alternations of day and night, sunshine and clouds, nothing interrupted the monotony of the scene. On the morning of the 14th of July, land was announced. The islands of Ranai and Morakai were near, and as we passed them, we had a near view of the latter. It is not so mountainous as most others of the group, and presented rather a sterile aspect. We soon after made Oahu, and passed on the east side around Diamond Hill to the harbor of Honolulu on the south. This harbor is the best and almost the only good one in any of the groups of the Poly- nesian islands. The entrance is somewhat intricate, and an experienced pilot is required to take ships in safely. Within the coral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for ships of almost any magnitude ; and this, with the long extended roads without the reefs which afford good anchor- age, renders the port desirable, and the island, in a com- mercial point of view, the most important of any in this part of the Pacific ocean. We went on shore, two o’clock in the afternoon, and I was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where I met several of the other missionaries, and felt much rejoiced to behold again a Christian community. The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and ener- vating, and was it not for the refreshing effects of the daily north-east trade winds, it would be insupportable to a north- ern constitution. On Sabbath 17th, I attended worship in the native church, and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the Hawaiian lan- guage to a very large assembly of natives, probably two thousand five hundred, who gave very good attention. They were all decently dressed, while some of them were in the European mode, the most of them were dressed in their na- THE PARI. 361 tive costume, and made a good appearance. Their conduct and attention were very becoming, and many listened with deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and the royal family, were present ; and although it was easy to distinguish them from the common people, yet they made no ostentatious display of royalty. Their dress was rich but plain, and they paid sober attention to the worship of God. The performance of the singers was good, but there was not that melody in their voices which characterizes the Indians. The house of worship is large and commodious, one hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, built in the native style, with the roof and sides covered with thatch. Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich Islands, situa- ted in north latitude 21° 18' and in west longitude 158® 38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles from Koka on the south-east to Kakana on the north-west. The greatest portion of the island is on the north-east of this line. Its greatest breadth is twenty-eight miles from Kahuku on the north to Laeloa (Barber’s Point) on the south ; about four fifths of the island is on the east of this line. The island is very mountainous ; the highest eminence is called Hon- ahuanui, and is a little over four thousand feet. The Pari, at the upper end of the valley of Nuuanu, north of Hon- olulu, may be counted among the curiosities of the island ; principally on account of its being a part of the main road, or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one thou- sand one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is to be clambered up and down in passing from Honolulu to Ken- ehoe, and to a stranger it is a fearful undertaking,, as it is 362 DECISIVE BATTLE. necessary to have a native to assist in putting your feet into the crevices of the rocks. And yet the natives pass up and down with their calabashes of poi , and their loads of mel- ons, fish, and other commodities, without any difficulty more than fatigue. Some years ago, in a war between Tamehameha and the king of Oahu, the final battle was fought here which decided the fate of the island. The king of Oahu made a desperate struggle ; and one part of his routed army, numbering more than three hundred, were pursued to this precipice, forced down, and almost all were dashed to pieces. On each side of this pass, needle-pointed mountains rise up two thousand feet forming a narrow chasm, through which the north-east trade winds rush with great violence. Before you, at the north, you have a very pleasing view of the fertile valley of Kolou ; and beyond is a fine prospect of the bay and wide spread ocean. The valley between the Pari and Honolulu is seven miles long; the upper part of which is narrow and very picturesque. Interesting cas- cades are seen dashing down the almost perpendicular mountains, and the whole scenery is covered with fresh foliage. This was almost the only place where the cool and invigorating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat. The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to a great extent with taro patches. Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus arum , and is planted in hills upon patches of ground, so formed as to be partially flooded with water, somewhat after the manner of rice cul- tivation. In eight or ten months after setting the plants, they are fit for use. To prepare it for food, it is always ne- cessary to roast it, to take out the pungency which is common to this genus, as found in the wild turnip. It is frequently VALLEY OF MANOA. 363 eaten for bread with no other preparation except roasting ; or it is converted into poi by pulverising and making it into a stiff paste. The natives prefer the poi after it has under- gone the acetic fermentation. East of this valley is another called Manoa, about five miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. It is well watered by streams descending from the mountains, formed by showers of rain which frequently fall upon them, and which sometimes extend to the valleys and plains. Its fertile soil is well cultivated with sweet potatoes, taro, and melons. At the upper end, Kaahumanu, the late queen re- gent, who died in 1832, had a house built for retirement from the bustle of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beau- tiful cool grove of oliia and kukui trees,* on an eminence commanding a view of the valley below. Near this dwell- ing, she caused a house to be built for the accommodation of the missionaries, when they should wish for rest, and to be refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains. The evidences of her Christian character were convincing. Her piety was active. She traveled through all the islands, from time to time, to see that the people attended upon the means of religious instruction, and the schools ; and to rec- ommend the religion of the Bible to all classes of her sub- jects. Her example, as well as her authority, was power- ful in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was felt not only by her own people, but also by foreigners who re- sorted to those islands. When I visited this spot of remembrances, the buildings * The kukui tree bears a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of which is used for candles, and hence the tree is called the candle tree. 364 HONOLULU. were far gone to decay ; but not the cherished regard of her piety and philanthropy. This spot presented a very plea- sing view of the high and precipitous mountains around on every side ; excepting the south, which is open and exhibits to view the grandeur of the rolling ocean. The many cas- cades around upon the mountain sides added to the interest of the scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of maturity ; the arrow root ; and the brake fern growing, in many in- stances, to the height of twenty feet. From a bulb, near the root, is taken what the natives call hapuu, a silky down, which makes excellent beds and cushions. Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, on a bay of the same name, and is the capital, and business place of all the islands. The land around, and on which the vil- lage is located is a dry barren, excepting on the north and north-west, which is moist and cultivated with taro patches, with some cocoa trees interspersed. The buildings generally are in the native style, thatched ; many are built with doba wails after the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico and Peru, that is, with large sun-burnt bricks made about two feet long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. The clay is mixed with cut-straw to strengthen them, after the manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their enclosures are often built in the same manner. There are several good buildings made of rock coral in English style, some of which are spa- cious and well finished. The village contains about nine thousand inhabitants, three hundred of whom are English and Americans. Most of the commercial business and trade are carried on by foreigners, to a large amount, increased by the resort of whale ships, in the fall and spring, for repairs and fresh supplies, particularly vegetables ; it is the place OLD HEATHEN TE3IPLE. 365 where all other shipping touch which navigate this ocean from Europe and America, in the Chinese and East India trade. This place is constantly growing in importance, and must continue to do so from its local advantages. Four miles south-east of Honolulu is the pleasant nativt village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the same name. It contains five or six hundred inhabitants, is situated in a beautiful grove of cocoa trees, which adds very much to its appearance and comfort. This place, if its cultivation was proportioned to the richness of the soil, might be made one of the most delightful spots on the island. The only road, or any thing that deserves the name of a road in this island, is between this place and Honolulu. About two miles east of this village are the remains of an old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices were offered ; a part of the walls of the enclosure are still standing. Va- rious methods were employed to obtain victims. One of which was to lay a tabu upon all the people in the whole region around, that no one for a certain period of time should go out of their dwellings, or make any fire in them, upon pain of death. If any violated the tabu , they were apprehended and sacrificed to their idols. If they were un- successful in obtaining victims in this way, they would send out men in a canoe, to range along between the coral reef and the shore, and to feign distress, and if any were decoy- ed out for their relief, they were apprehended and carried to the temple and offered in sacrifice. It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influence of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel supersti- tions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of seeing an old man who had been a high priest in these bloody rites. He has no hope that he is interested in the salvation of the 32 366 EVA. gospel, but he said it is maitai , (good,) and that the Christian religion is so firmly established in these islands, that their ancient idolatry can never again be revived. He saluted me with many alohas. Mr. Bingham gave him some ac- count of my journey across the Rocky Mountains and the object. He replied that it was good, and that God was with me and preserved me. He said in their former religion, they were all ignorant — all was darkness, entire darkness, but now the light shines. He said that when Captain Van- couver visited these islands in the reign of Tamaha,he urged the king to renounce idolatry, and the king promised he would, when Christians would send from the land of light a minister to teach them in the right way. They waited until their king died without knowing the right way, and no one came until Mr. Bingham and his associates in the year 1820. This old heathen priest gave up his religion and his honors, took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, and called him brother, and has ever since been friendly to the missionaries. His wife, whom I also saw, hopes that she has experienced the saving power of the gospel. Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is Eva,* a village of con- siderable magnitude, but not very compact. It is situated on Pearl river, at the head of a large lagoon extending sev- eral miles inland, and is surrounded with a fertile valley reaching twelve miles north, which is two thirds of the dis- tance to Waialua. The highest elevation between these places is about four hundred feet, and is intersected in va- rious parts with deep ravines. Eva is the station which Rev. Artemus Bishop and wife occupy, whose prospects of usefulness are encouraging. When I was there, the na- * Pronounced Ava. KENEOHE. 367 lives were engaged in building a substantial and commodi- ous house of worship, and appeared to take deep interest in the effort. In the north-west part of the island, is the village of Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are sta- tioned. The village is situated upon a wide spread bay, which would furnish an excellent harbor for any shipping, if there was sufficient water upon the bar at the entrance. The valley around is large and fertile, capable of being made very productive. On a Sabbath which I spent here, eight natives, six men, and two women, were received into the communion of the church, who appeared very intelli- gent and serious, and conducted with as much propriety as is seen in the most civilized parts of the world. I felt a satisfaction in joining with these redeemed heathen in the ordinance of the Lord’s supper. Every part of divine ser- vice was conducted with Christian decorum. I was par- ticularly pleased with the appearance of the native deacon, who was dignified in his person, dressed in good taste, and very devotional in his behavior. The only remaining village of any considerable import- ance is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjamin W. Parker and wife are stationed. This village is in the fertile valley of Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, which would af- ford an excellent harbor if there was sufficient water at the entrance over the coral bar. This village is about four miles north of the Pari, and is the most cool and refreshing retreat I found upon the island. The basaltic mountain on the south, three thousand feet high, and nearly vertical ; and the north-east trade winds give a temperate atmosphere, not found in any other part of the island sufficiently low for a village. 368 SALT LAKE. The greatest part of the island is mountainous, though but two ranges are of considerable magnitude. The lar- gest, Koanahumanui, is on the east side, and runs parallel with the ocean, and its highest point is four thousand feet above the level of the sea. This range of mountains is di- versified with cones, acute points, and paries. At the great Pari, the upper end of Nuuanu, the main chain turns to the west, and terminates towards Waialua. The north side of the range, west of the Pari, is very precipitous, having many spurs projecting to the north, including deep, pit-like ravines. The other range is on the west part of the island, called Kaala, running north and south, separating Waianae on the west, from the valley of Eva on the east. The high- est point is three thousand eight hundred and fifty feet. There are many conical hills of different magnitudes in va- rious parts of the island, which were evidently ancient cra- ters ; one six miles south-east of Honolulu, called Diamond Hill ; and another a short distance north of Honolulu, called Fort Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with high walls, reeded down the sides, which appear to have been formed by streams of lava, and by the action of water, cutting ravines. There is an abundance of lava and other volcanic productions about these hills. The Salt Lake, four miles west of Honolulu, is of the cra- teric form. It is a great curiosity, as well as a source of trade. It has undoubtedly a connection by some subterra- neous passage with the ocean, near which it is situated. Its depth is not known, being nearly filled with excellent crystalized salt, which appears to be inexhaustible, and is taken out in large quantities for use and exportation. The lake appears as if covered with ice, a little sunken below' the surface of the water. GEOLOGY. 369 The geological formations of this island, and all the others in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning which I ob- tained information, are volcanic and coraline to a great extent. Some have supposed that these islands have been thrown up in the first place by internal fires, and then en- larged by coraline additions. But there is too much argil- laceous soil to favor the opinion ; and to say the least, the supposition is without conclusive evidence. Much of the soil is formed of disintegrated and decomposed lava. The reefs lying off from the shores, and in some places immedi- ately upon them, are coraline. The corals are divided into ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Between these formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancient corals are found in many places forming the surface of the plains, ele- vated some six or eight feet above the present level of the ocean. As the zoophytes, which form coral, never work above water, it is evident that these islands have been ele- vated by some subterranean or submarine power, or the ocean is subsiding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not the same degree, is it not probable that the waters of the ocean are gradually diminishing ? Of the modern corals there are many species, from the rock, to the most beautiful kinds resembling trees and plants, and of various colors. The volcanic formations do not differ materially from those in Oregon Territory. Cellular lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice, and of various colors; brick red, ash colored, orange yellow, and green. No primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious sand ; the sand upon the shores being formed either of dis- integrated lava, scoria, or coral, but more generally com- bined of these three elements. While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the 32 * 370 ANIMALS. productions of these islands, the following are some of the principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa tree, which fur- nishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybiscus, candle nut tree, mulberry, fig, cotton tree, which grows spontane- ously and produces cotton of very fine quality; coffee tree, grape vines, oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons of superior quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root ; indigo plant, which grows finely without any care ; the guava, a fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the taste of those not accustomed to them ; taro, sweet and common potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns of extraor- dinary size, and the cactus opuntia , familiarly known as the prickly pear, growing to the height of six or eight feet, is planted in hedge-rows for enclosures. All the most superb tropical flowering plants luxuriate in these islands, among which we find the oriental lilac, eight different species of mimosa, the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convol- vulus, and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, roses, the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beautiful genera. Also garden vegetables of various kinds. These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, contained but very few animals, and most of those now found upon them have been since introduced from the Mexican coast. There are now, horses, mules, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, fowls. The birds which have their residence here, though not numerous, are of most beautiful plumage, and the favor- ite head ornament of the women, is made of the golden colored feathers of a native bird. The crow and raven, which are common in almost all parts of the world, have not found their way here. There are very few reptiles, but the green lizard is very common, and in the days of the idolatry of the Islanders was worshiped, and such is the in- GOVERNMENT. 371 fluence of superstition, that they can hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insignificant reptile. If one comes into their dwellings, they choose to let it take its own departure rather than molest it. Snakes are unknown, and the scorpion and centiped have within a very few years been brought here in vessels. The musquitoe was not known until recently, though now they are numerous and very annoying. The government of these islands is absolute and heredi- tary, administered by the king, queen, and chiefs, whose will is the supreme law ; the common people are a nation of slaves. The lands belong to the government, and are leased to the people at high rents, and even then they have no security that they shall enjoy the avails of their labor ; for beside the stipulated rents, the government make any addi- tional demands they please, and the people are taught to obey without complaining. The persons of the chiefs are remarkable for their extraordinary size, towering quite above the height of the common people, and in corpulency preserving corresponding dimensions. The king secures his house and person by life guards. Very frequently on a Saturday morning, the queen regent, attended by her train and servants in equestrian style, visits her garden some two miles from Honolulu. Their appearance is fine, and they are well skilled in horsemanship. Her ordinary mode of riding is in a small, low-wheel carriage drawn by twenty servants. The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas , as the com- mon people are called, have less activity of body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual powers are well developed. In their present political condition, they are not expected to be otherwise than indolent and improvident.. In their dress, 372 TEA PARTY DOG FEAST. mode of living, and habitations generally, they have made but little advance upon the days of heathenism ; some in the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing than their maro , and having their dwellings in caverns in vol- canic rocks. The chiefs, and some of the people, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably. The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, to which with a few others I had the honor to be invited. They were dressed richly and in good taste ; the table was splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china ; the enter- tainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such occa- sions was observed. The conversation was cheerful and intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred embar- rassing to any one. At a suitable' early hour, we were in- vited into a saloon well furnished, where, after a perform- ance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro- posed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visit; after which the company retired. I have seen but few parties in Christian America conducted more on the principles of rationality and religion. An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted in a different style by some of our countrymen and other for- eigners in those islands. A dog-feast, as it is there called, was given by foreign resident gentlemen, on the 20th of Sept, at the country seat of the American consul, in honor of the officers of the American squadron, the Peacock and Enterprise, then in the harbor of Honolulu. I extract from the account published in the Sandwich Island Gazette as de- scribed at the time. “Food in native style w*as bountifully served up — baked dog was among the dishes, and it was net to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bumpers, and speech- DECREASE OF POPULATION. 373 es all came in their turn. Among the toasts were, ‘Com- modore our Commodore Commodore’s reply, £ May you all live a thousand years, and may we always meet here.’ Doctor of the United States ship Peacock. * Population and prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, and an end to all oppressive tabus.’ The party separated teeming with good spirits.” The population of these islands has been decreasing ever since an acquaintance has been had with them. Captain Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present popu- lation is about 110,000. A variety of causes have conspi- red to bring about this declension, and yet no one so promi- nent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enquiry. It is acknowledged by all observers, and has become evident to the government itself, that a change of things in the inter- nal structure of their national affairs, is necessary to the prosperity of the people. During my stay at Oahu, the heads of the nation had frequent meetings to discuss the subject of reform and improvement, and to adopt some new mode of administration which will give to the people the privileges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus- try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed among the people, a more equal mode of taxation must be adopted, industry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity will follow in train. The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposi- tion to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested by foreign powers. Whether the paw of the Lion, or the talons of the Eagle, shall first make them its prey, or whether they shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus prolong the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The manner 374 FOREIGN RESIDENTS. in which the king and chiefs are often treated by the offi- cers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet with, would not pass with impunity from a more powerful people. In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had to mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of dictation ; “ You shall, and you shall not. 5 ’ Assertions are made of things existing in the laws and practices of England and America, which neither government would tolerate. Lord Russel, the commander of the Acteon, a British man of war, obtained the signature to a certain instrument, by assuring the Hawaiian government that if they refused any longer to sign it, he would order all the English ves- sels to leave the harbor, and request all the American shipping to withdraw ; and then bring his armed ship be- fore their fort, and batter down the walls, and prostrate their village. The king signed the instrument, and then, together with the queen and chiefs, like some other people who feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had only the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They accordingly sent a remonstrance to the king of Great Britain, in which they say, that “ on account of their urging us so strongly ; on account of said commanders assuring us that their communication was from the king ; and on account of their making preparation to fire upon us,— therefore we gave our assent to the writing, without our being willing to give our real approbation ; for we were not pleased with it.” They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and therefore submit to indignities from which their feelings revolt. Why cannot the principles of jus- tice and equity govern the intercourse of men with men, where they are so well understood, and the pain- ful necessity be spared of innocence and helplessness FOREIGN RESIDENTS. 375 supplicating that protection which Heaven grants to its children. Much has been said of the character of the foreign res- idents, and of the counteracting influence they exert upon the labors of the missionaries in this field. The cause of their bitterness and opposition is well understood, and lest my own observations should seem partial to the missiona- ries, and invidious towards those who oppose them, I will embrace all I have to say on the subject in a quotation from a work published by Mr. J. N. Reynold of the voy- age of the Potomac, an American man of war. He cer- tainly cannot be accused of partiality to the missiona- ries who reside on these islands, for his remarks on them are somewhat acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign residents he says, “ they are generally devoid of all reli- gious principle, and practice the greatest frauds upon the natives in their dealings with them ; which tends to cor- rupt their morals, and to preclude all hopes of fairness in trade among them. It cannot be denied, and no one can regret it more than we do, that this whole population, generally speaking, are of the lowest order ; among whom every thing like decent restraint which civilized soci- ety imposes upon its members, is at war with their vi- cious propensities, and of course resisted by them to the extent of their power.” He farther adds, “let us be dis- tinctly understood in the remarks we have made in refer- ence to the foreign residents and missionaries on this isl- and. As to the question, which party is on the side of virtue and good order, there can be but one opinion, where there is not even room for comparison.” 1 have been in communities where vice has been unblushingly indulged, but I have never witnessed direct enmity to 376 ROYAL CEMETERY. every thing morally good, in so much bitterness and pow- er, as in Oahu. Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and manifest a regard for the education of their children ; and send some of them to other countries for this purpose ; but for most of them a charity school has been established, and for its support a call is made upon the commanders and officers of vessels who come into this port ; and they have even sent to England and America for charitable aid. Though some poor are taught here, yet I know not why the benevolent should help, by way of charity , the consuls and rich merchants in Oahu. I visited the seamen’s chapel and preached several times for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred seamen in the port of Honolulu, there are frequently very few attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev. Mr. Diell, their worthy chaplain, is however indefatigable in his labors through the week, visiting sailors on ship board, and wherever he can find them, endeavoring to pro- mote their spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned his efforts. On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Prin- cess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, I visited the burial place of the kings and royal family. This is a stone building of rock coral, of the common size and struc- ture of the houses of the village, and situated amongst them, having nothing particularly distinguishable except an out- ward signal, by which is understood the number and rank of the dead within. They are encased first in lead, secured from the admission of air, and then deposited in coffins of elegant workmanship, covered with rich silk velvet or crimson damask, and ornamented with silver or brass plate. MISSIONARY SUCCESS. 377 Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kamehamalu, who died on a visit to England, and several others lying in state ; and in the same tomb, are interred a number of other mem- bers of the royal family. The missionaries of the American Board of Commission- ers for Foreign Missions in these islands, have done much to elevate the character of the population, by teaching and preaching the truths of Christianity, by schools, where the first rudiments of education are taught, by the press, and a translation of the entire bible ; they have exerted a salutary influence upon the morals of the whole nation, and raised a monument to the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus Christ. They have also laid instrumentally, a broad foundation for the political, and social, and religious im- provement of that people, unless thwarted by the interfe- rence and opposition of foreigners, and for the future and unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the world to come. I had frequent opportunities of witnessing the effect of their labors in the evidences of the moral renovation of these once idolaters, and of meeting with them in their great congregation on the Sabbath. o co 33 378 HOMEWARD BOUND. CHAPTER XXVI. Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States— call at the Society Islands — brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo — severe gales of wind — Magellanic clouds — Martin Vass island — Trinidad — arrival at New London. From July to November, no vessel departed from the Sandwich Islands direct for the United States, and after being detained about five months, waiting an opportunity to return, I engaged a passage in the Phoenix, Allyn, from New London, and embarked December 17th. The ship was built for the China trade, of four hundred and ten tons, manned with twenty-eight persons, besides five passengers. The pilot boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ; our course south-west. On the morning of the *21st, we en- countered a strong wind, which in the afternoon had in- creased so much, that we were compelled to put two reefs in the top-sails; and a squall split our jib and sprung our foremast. I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy the grandeur of the rolling ocean, being confined to the cabin by sea sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling business, and I was furnished, for once, with an opportuni- ty of seeing the experiment of taking a whale. The thing has often been described, but the novelty of the manoeu- vre interested me. The experienced and skillful whale- men dispose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of their profession, in a manner much beyond my conceptions before witnessing it ; and the monster of the deep, though TETUAROA AND TAHITI ISLANDS. 379 mighty in his strength, is made to submit to inferior power, and to contribute largely to illuminate our evenings at home. When the whale is brought along side of the ship, the whalemen dissever the head from the body, and hoist it on deck, and while some are employed in perforating the scull, and with a bucket taking out the sperm, others make a spiral incision in the oily portion, beginning where the head was taken off, and by rope and hook suspended by a pulley twenty feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily part which cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the whale revolves in the water ; and this process is continued until all that is valuable is secured. There are said to be thirty thousand men employed in this business in the Pacific, while only about four hundred are engaged in diffusing the light of life through the dark places of the earth. January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day we had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails were close reefed, — split our main-top-sail. Headed to the E. close on the wind. Very bad sea — not able to take any observation of our latitude or longitude. These gales continued on the 13th until almost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate, and we headed south. By observation taken to-day, our latitude was 14° 47' south. Sabbath, 15th. The winds subsided, and the weather was warm. In the morning we came near Tetuaroa, a small island of the Society group. It is low, the highest parts ri- sing but a few feet above the level of the sea, is thinly in- habited, and adorned with large and beautiful groves of the cocoa tree extending even to the water’s edge. The fresh verdure of this island in all the luxuriance of perpetual summer, was a delightful contrast to the constant view of the 380 PEPEETI. water for nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of the ocean were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager, and bring to his mind the recollection of his own dear home. Like all the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is sur- rounded with coral reefs, lying off at a little distance from the shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the afternoon we approached the harbor of Papeeti, at the island of Tahiti. The pilot came off to us, and made an effort to get the ship in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, and we had to bear off for the night. The prospect as it lay spread out before us was a combination of all that was beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the impression which this little “ Queen of the ocean ” makes upon a stran- ger. Others have described it with all the vividness which its romantic and delightful scenery inspires. The harbor forms a gentle curve, and in the foreground, on a level tract were scattered neat cottages built of thatch, or wood, plas- tered and whitewashed with coral lime, situated together with the church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa, and orange groves. The back ground of the enchanting picture was filled up with hills and valleys, and streams dashing their way down the ravines, and then meandering through the rich vale below, to the ocean, while the outline terminated in steep and lofty mountains. But not the least interesting were the marks which the Christian religion and its attend- ant, civilization, have made. Here was a church, and to know that this people had lately been rescued from pagan- ism, and all the hideous forms of idolatrous worship, raised in my heart emotions of pleasure and gratitude, which not even nature’s fairest forms had power to awaken. An im- mortal spirit elevated from the dust, and raised to heaven, a monument of the Savior’s grace — what can equal it? CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION'. 381 Monday morning, the 16th, we passed safely into the har- bor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pierson, from Sag Harbor ; on board of which were Rev. W. Richards and family, passengers for the United States. We continued in this port four days, during which time I made several excursions about the island, and became ac- quainted with the English missionaries, of whose successful labors I had often heard and read; the Rev. Messrs. Wil- son, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They ap- pear happy in their work, and devoted to it. The Christian religion is the only religion acknowledged in these islands, and its influence is universally apparent. As the conver- sion of multitudes in the first ages of Christianity, has ever been considered as furnishing evidence of the truth of the gospel, so the “moral miracle 55 of the conversion of the islands of the sea, in our own day, is calculated, with all its attendant circumstances to confirm our faith, as well as to encourage us in prosecuting still farther those benevolent de- signs, which render the deserts, both naturally and morally, the garden of the Lord. Besides preaching on the Sabbath, the missionaries have religious service on other days of the week. At sun*- rise every morning they have a public prayer meeting. They are doing much by their schools and the press ; and most of the people can read. The performances of the natives in vocal music pleased me, their voices being very soft and musical, though less cultivated than those of the Sandwich Islanders. Their personal appearance, corm plexion, language, and dress are much the same as the na- tives of those islands. Their advances in the arts and in agriculture are less than might be expected of them, but in a climate where so many rich fruits vegetate spontaneously,. the necesssity of cultivation is less imperious. While the 33* G82 GOVERNMENT, harbor is not as good as that of Oahu, less is done by way of wharfing, or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid in re- pairing the shipping which visit this island. A good public road has been commenced to extend around the island, on which convicts, instead of being imprisoned, were employed, but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are broken down. The government here is much the same as that of the Sandwich Islands, but is in some respects more free and sys- tematized. Their judiciary is well organized, and justice is tolerably well administered. Their legislative body is composed of the queen, governors, chiefs, and two represen- tatives from each district of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo ; the laws when framed are canvassed by the people, and if approved, receive the queen’s signature. The young queen Pomare is of very prepossessing appearance, possesses tal- ents, and decision of character ; but her views of civilization are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. The American consul, of these islands, resides at Papee- ti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native and citizen of Antwerp. His English is hardly intelligible, and his knowledge of the duties of his office is yet to be ac- quired. The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They are mountainous, many of which are high and steep, and many of the valleys are deep and narrow, extending far into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil is rich and productive ; oranges and all other tropical fruits being abundant, and requiring little labor or care. Such is the indolence of the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides sugar cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS. 383 supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood equal in value to mahogany for cabinet work. The heat for the most part of the year is so oppressive that though many things are very pleasant, yet these islands come short of the paradise which some journalists have described. These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been di- minishing in populousness. Various causes, such as the in- troduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human sacrifices, the means furnished by commerce of rendering wars de- structive to human life, and the introduction of ardent spirits, have all contributed to this end. It is estimated that only about twelve thousand people inhabit the two islands of Ta- hiti and Eimeo, and about forty thousand the Georgian and Society group. The introduction of the Christian religion has banished many causes of their decline. The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy of re- mark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and sea bath- ing, to which they are induced by the climate, and of which they are fond, including all descriptions of persons, and even children, is highly conducive to health, and promotes a taste for neatness in their persons not common to heathen nations. Wednesday, 18th, I accompanied Mr. Pritchard in his pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, where he preached to a congregation in a village in which the queen has her residence. Queen Pomare was present, and an interesting audience appeared to listen as if they were hearing the word to obey it. After the meeting we pursued our ride about seven miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson’s at Point Venus, a lovely spot, situated in orange groves and bananas. Our way thither was around the base of hills and mountains which approached near the beach in precipices, and where the opening through the coral reefs permitted the 384 PUBLIC FEAST. sea to break oil the shore with a noise like thunder, so that we had to watch the opportunity afforded by the receding waves to pass their points. Any horses, but those accus- tomed to the sight, would have denied us a safe passage. With these dear missionaries I partook of a cheerful dish of tea, while we talked of the interests of the kingdom of our common Redeemer, and of the time when fellow laborers from every part of our lost world, and from their different spheres of agency, when their work here is done, shall be gathered to their Father’s home in heaven. In the evening we returned to Mr. Pritchard’s, on my part delighted with so refreshing an interview. During my short stay, the queen and royal family of a neighboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Tahiti. This afforded me a very desirable opportunity of remarking the manners and customs of the people. A public feast was given in honor of the royal visitants ; and the day was ushered in by firing rusty guns, of which they have a very few. The morning until ten o’clock was occupied in col- lecting together their cocoanuts, bananas, baked hogs, &c. Many were out to purchase calico scarfs of two or three yards in length to wear in the procession. A very large pro- cession formed, the women taking the lead, and the men fol- lowing in order. A female with an infant in her arms led the van. This was explained to me as done in honor of mothers ; for here, as well as at the Sandwich Islands, wo- men are regarded as in all respects on a par with men. All were well attired in European style, their heads adorned tastefully with garlands of most beautiful tropical flowers, with which their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion. After taking, in single file, a long and circuitous march, they ar- rived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoanufc, PREPARING FOR SEA. 385 bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the centre, with an infant, sat the royal visitor; and each Tahitian as they passed, threw down at her feet their scarfs or some other present. It was the pleasure of the queen, however, not long to retain all these tokens of honor, for she seemed happy in generously giving them to others. After the procession had passed in respectful review, next came the refreshments, which were placed, some on the ground, others suspended on boughs of trees, which were taken and shared in little circles seated upon the grass, evidently enjoying the social interview. This is considered one of their most joyful holi- days, and was managed without noise, confusion, or any apparent infraction of the rules of propriety. It must be recollected that this is a temperance island ; all traffic in ardent spirits being prohibited by law. In taking leave of these islands, I would not fail to men- tion the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and family, and the satisfaction I had in seeing the other missionaries, and witnessing the interesting fruits of their labors under the blessing of God. Our stay at Tahiti was employed by the ship’s crew in disposing of our poor sulphureted water from the Sandwich Islands, and in re-supplying themselves with the pure moun- tain streams of this island, and in “ vegetating the ship,'’ as they phrase it; that is, by collecting quantities, which are purchased of the natives, of oranges, bananas, sweet pota- toes, limes, cocoanuts in abundance, bread-fruit, yams, and squashes. Here I collected for my cabinet, some choice specimens of coral, and shells of the ocean, which the na- tives dive to obtain, and sell to the ships which enter this port. On the morning of Saturday 21st January, we left the 386 MAN OVERBOARD. harbour of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we sailed around Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely wooded tops and precipitous sides, appeared in full prospect. On this island there is a high school for the children of the missionary families of the several islands. We proceeded with a favorable wind until the 30th, when our latitude was 30° 27' south, and longitude 153° 10' west. I was here much gratified to witness the interesting phe- nomenon of a water spout. It first became visible to us about half a mile distant as it arose, and at that distance we had no apprehensions of danger from it, and yet it was sufficiently near to give a distinct view. It commenced in a small, dark, and nearly perpendicular column, enlarging its diameter as it rose, until it reached the region of the clouds, when apparently feeling the influence of the wind, it passed obliquely to the south-west. It continued in view some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, it grad- ually disappeared. On the 4th of February, fresh breezes from the north- west took the place of the south-east trade winds, and our course was laid E. S. E. On the 5th we had strong gales from the west. Put two reefs in the top-sails, and took in the mizzen-top-sail, and handed the main-sail. The sea was very heavy. On the 9th the wind was more moderate ; and while engaged in spearing porpoises, one of the men fell overboard from the bow, and went directly under the ship, and came up under her stern. The life buoy was thrown over to him, but being an indifferent swimmer he was long in his efforts to seize it. By lowering the boat and rounding about the ship, he was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a great HEAVY GALE. 387 variety of occurrences taken from the world, and the cer- tain knowledge awakens but feeble sensations in our bosoms; but a solitary case of individual danger and suffering which we witness, arouses all our anxieties and sympathies, and we are grateful when relieved by the safety of the suf- ferer. On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. We were in latitude about 47° south, and 120° west longitude. With nearly every sail taken in, we could only run before the wind, which was from the north-west, and the waves were constantly breaking over our bulwarks. Such was the roaring of the wind and breaking waves, that it was diffi- cult for the orders of the captain to be heard, upon his loud- est voice, from midship, forward or aft. The wind blew tons of water into the air and scattered them into ten thou- sand sprays. I never had such evidence of the power of wind and water, nor of the admirable manner the ship could live in such a gale. She would roll upon the waves and plunge and rise again upon the mountain billows. The whole scene was fraught with magnificence, terror, and grandeur. It was a great favor that we had a courageous and experienced captain ; and a sober, active, and obe- dient crew ; and above all the protection of Heaven. Two men were constantly at the wheel, selected from our best steersmen. We shipped a great quantity of water, and on the night of the 17th, the fore deck had scarcely at any time, less than a foot, or two feet of water, the waves breaking over faster than the water could pass through the scuppers. Two pumps were at work a large portion of the time to keep the ship clear, so much water was con- stantly finding its way down the closed hatches and other leakages of the deck. The two men at each pump la- 388 THE NODDY AND ALBATROSS. bored so forcibly, that it was necessary to be relieved by others every three minutes. I reflected on the condition of those who were not prepared for death, and that even to a Christian a quiet deathbed would be preferable to leaving the world in such a scene of confusion. But we were spared in great kindness, and the following morning the wind began to abate. Captain Allyn, who had been into most of the principal seas, and around both of the great Capes, said he never saw, except in a typhoon which he encountered on the Japan coast, any gale which equal- led this. The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail and rain until the 28th, when we found we were driven to the 59° of south latitude, and 77° west longitude. This was farther south of Cape Horn than we wished to go. The weather was cold and thick, the thermometer ranging be- tween 41° and 47° for several days. On the 1st of March we saw for the first time after leaving Tahiti, a sail to the windward heading south-west, but were unable to speak her. It was very pleasant to find our latitude lessening in our homeward course, though we were not up with the Cape until the third of March. During the gales, and especially in stormy weather, our vessel was very frequently visited by a bird which navigators call the Noddy, and which is easily taken by the hand. It is of the Tern genus, twelve inches long, slenderly formed; its plumage is a dark sooty brown, excepting the top of its head which is dusky white. The Albatross also was constantly flying about us, regard- less of wind and waves. Our men caught several of them with a hook, the heads of which, when standing upon the deck, were four feet high; their aler measurement was ten feet. Although they are generally of a brown color, yet iu MAGELLANIC CLOUDS. 389 the region of Cape Horn, they vary from a mixture of brown and white, to an almost entire white. They are the largest class of the feathered race. We had for a long time an opportunity of observing the Magellanic clouds; which are three in number, two lumin- ous and one black; about thirty degrees distant from each other, and fixed in their relative situations as are the fixed stars. Although I had noticed them, supposing them to be clouds, and wondering how an illuminated cloud should be seen at all times of the night, and preserve its position with an outline so well defined and so plainly marked, yet my mind was not wholly satisfied respecting them, until the Mate of the ship, who had seen them in previous voyages, and who possessed considerable astronomical knowledge, pointed out to me some of their characteristics. The weath- er in those high southern latitudes being so uniformly thick and cloudy, prevented our observing them so early, or care- fully as we might otherwise have done. They were distinct- ly visible for weeks, keeping their relative situation, and their altitude above the southern horizon, lessening to the beholder according as his latitude diminished while he proceeded north. The forms of each are about five degrees in di- ameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly are formed by clusters of stars, so numerous and contiguous, and so distant as only to give a glimmering light like luminous clouds, which gives them their name ; and the black one is very probably the entire absence of all light. I gazed at these, night after night, with wonder and admiration. It seemed to me, that looking at the dark one, was looking be- yond created nature into infinite space. Gales occurred occasionally after we doubled Cape Horn, but most of the time was pleasant and the winds favorable, 34 390 FUNERAL AT SEA. until the 27th of March in south latitude 23° 27', and West longitude 28° 34, the wind came around to the north, and continued to blow from a northerly direction for ten days, which retarded our progress, and carried us off our course to the east, until we were brought into 26° west longitude, where we changed our course west by north. On the first of April, we spoke and East Indiaman. She was a very large, fine-looking ship, of about eight hundred tons, well filled with men, women, and children, who probably were passengers for New Holland. This was the first ship we had spoken after the Spartan, near the line on the other side of the continent. It is difficult to imagine how pleas- ant it is to see and speak a ship after having been months at sea. A few hours after, we saw another East Indiaman, but did not speak her. By falling in with these ships, we found we were so near Africa, that we were in the track of ships from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope. The same day we buried one of the seamen in the great deep. He was a man who in early life was trained up in the care of pious parents, but whose after life was marked by vices, which in their consequences led to a comparative- ly early death. It was a solemn scene when we committed his remains to the water grave. The colors were raised half mast, the whole ship’s company collected around ; the body, with weights attached, was laid upon a plank at the gang-way ; and we paused to dwell for a momeut on death and the dread scenes beyond. I addressed them in a few remarks suggested by the occasion, and after a prayer, the plank was gently moved over the side of the ship, and the dead disappeared to be seen no more. On the 2d, we made Martin Vass islands, which are five in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, without any MARTIN VASS AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS. 391 soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five hun- dred feet. Two are very small and needle pointed. They are all so precipitous, and the sea constantly breaking against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are fantastical ; one of them having the appearance of a forti- fication with bastions, about which are needle points resem- bling men on guard. They are in 20° 31' south latitude, and 28° 38' west longitude. By changing our course more westerly we made Trinidad, off against St. Roque, which is an island of considerable size, and in latitude 20° 28', and longitude 29° 5'. Near evening we were fifteen miles from it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail and lay off for the night. Some Portuguese once settled upon it, but it is so difficult of access, that they abandoned it, and it is now without any inhabitants. On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within three miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore ; but finding no place free from breakers, gave up the at- tempt, caught a few fish near the shores, and after being much annoyed with flies which came off to us, we returned to the ship, and with a favorable breeze pursued our course. This island is also volcanic, has an iron bound shore, and is mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for multitudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large. I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man-of- war hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly silky white species of the Tern, which hovered over us with great tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance with us, not suspecting any hostility, 392 EVENINGS AT SEA. Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable brightness. What has been described by others of evenings at sea, in the southern hemisphere, I had an opportunity of observing with admiration. The richest colors of red, orange, and yellow, are spread over the western sky after the setting sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pen- cil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in soft- ness over this scene of beauty. Nature’s pencil only can lay on these delicate shades, and add to it the brilliancy, ever varying, of so much richness and splendor. In the deep seas we did not see many fish ; of the few which came under our observation, the dorado , or as com- monly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish excelled in the beauty of their colors. The former, when taken upon deck, constantly changed its colors from the bright purple to the gold, the bluish green, and the silver white, and these spread- ing out into vanishing shades. The pilot fish is equally beautiful, but is singular in the choice of company and em- ployment ; always being found with the shark, and conduct- ing him to his prey, from which it derives its name. The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers for occupying both air and water, but finds no friend in either ; pursued by the dolphin or some other fish, it swims with all speed until it can no longer escape its destructive enemy, and then takes to flight in the air, where the albatross and the man-of-war hawk hover to make it their prey. In its flight it often falls upon the decks of ships, when man shows it no mercy. On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a few days we had calms or only light winds with showers. The heat was very intense, and to be becalmed under these CROSS THE EQUATOR LAND DESCRIED. 393 circumstances is more to be dreaded than gales. But we were much favored, and soon found ourselves in north latitude, and it was with sensations of delight that I again beheld the North Star, though but just above the horizon. I hailed it as the harbinger of good, and the future guide to the long forsaken home and friends which I now realized that I was fast approaching. All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and we observed the gulf weed in great abundance before we came to the gulf-stream. It is an aquatic plant of a pecu- liar light green color, and floats upon the service of the water. We entered and passed the stream on the 14th of May, in 36° 37' north latitude; and though a rough sea is generally expected here, yet we had a very pleasant time. The current is at the rate of three miles an hour, and the temperature seven degrees warmer than the adjacent water. On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were cheered with the cry from the man at the mast head, “ Land ho! ahead” It proved to be Block Island. We came in sight of the light-house in the evening, but too late to at- tempt to get into the harbor before morning, and therefore lay off for the night. In the morning we found ourselves among various shipping bound to different ports. We pass- ed Montauk Point and drew near to New London, where the sight of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country around, and the islands dressed in green, were most grateful,, especially to one so long conversant with heathen countries and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed up the Thames to the city, and I rejoiced to land once more upon Christian and civilized shores, my native land, my country! In taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and crew to say, that I received from them every kind attention 34* 394 ARRIVAL AT HOME* I could wish, and being a temperance ship, I did not hear a profane word from any while on board. We had public worship, during the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of God was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the saving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in New London, and after arranging my business, directed my way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d of May, after an absence of more than two years and two months, and having accomplished a journey of twenty-eight thousand miles. APPENDIX VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. NEZ PERCE LANGUAGE. English . God, Spirit, Father, Man, Woman, Mother, Child, Brother, Sister, Husband, Wife, I, Thou, He, She, It, They, People, Heaven, Earth, Water, Fire, Snow, Rain, Wood, Grass, Hell or bad spirit, Indian , hemakis Tota. koonapa. tota. hama. iat. peka. meaits. uskeep. axsip. hama. waipna. en. Em. emim. aiat. ke. elahne tetokan. tetokan. accompenaka. waitush. eoos. aula. maika. waikit. haitsu. pax. koonapa kapseish. 396 VOCABULARY. Horse, White Bear, Black Bear, Beaver, Otter, Deer, Moose, Buffalo, Wolf, Salmon, Trout, Gun, Powder, Ball, Stone, What is that? Who is that ? There, Here, Where, When, How many ? None, All, Plenty, Near by, Great way off, This road, Stop, Go, Run, Go fast, Stop here, Encamp, Sleep, shecum. hahats. eakat. taxpull. collas. enishnim. taissheep. cocoil. siyah. natso. wowalthum. temoon. • popokes. saip. pishwa. etu ke. eshe ke. koone. kene. mene. mowwa. moits. siou. oekalla. elahne. keemta. wyat. iskit. collo. coetuc. willaikit. haum teets. collo kene. wispeix, penemeek. VOCABULARY. 397 Eat, I hear, You hear, I understand, Come, I know, You know, He knows, They know, I do not know, Talk, Ride, Wait, Swim, Love, Hate, Kill, Alive, Make, Take, Carry, Give, Pay, Make fire, Worship, Smoke, Sun, moon, Prairie, Mountain, Friend, Chief, Nez Perce, Blackfoot, Bonnax, American, hipsh. en amachish. em amachish. en amacus. come. en soko. em soko. emim soko. elahne tetokan soko. waiitu en soko. tumtein. wyatcus. coats. shuway. aitou. waiitu aitou. wapseou. waikus. ainees. enip. enip coeta. enahanim. tumaitcus. ailix. tolla poosa. keieta. hasumtooks. paix. mashum. sextua. meohot. numepo. quasne. tuelca. sueapo. 398 VOCABULARY. Frenchman, allima. Head, hooshus. Hair, hookoo. Arm, artum. Leg, waiu. Foot, akooa. Cloth, tahea. Saddle, supen sapoos. Pack, supen saps. Beads, collowin. Good, tois. Bad, kapseis. No, waiitu. Yes, ai. Great, hemakis. Small, coots. Sick, comitsa. Well, penamina. To-day, tax. Yesterday, watish. Once more, nox emaka. White, hihi. Black, cinmo cimmeo Red, ilpelp. Vermilion, ailish. Paint, penasuet. . nox. 10 poetumpt. ! lapeet. 11 nox tit. i metait. 12 lapeet tit. peelep. 20 laap tit. pahut. 30 metaip tit. elaix. 40 pelap tit. quoenapt. 50 pahap tit. wemuttut. quoies. 100 pooetap tit. VOCABULARY. 399 VOCABULARY OF THE KLICATAT NATION, WHO INHABIT THE COUNTRY NORTH OF THE CASCADES. English . God, Evil spirit, Sun, Moon, Stars, Fire, Earth, Water, Stone, Wood, House, Bread, Fish, Deer, Bird, Cow, Horse, Dog, Boat, Man, Woman, Girl, Boy, Fingers, Foot, Toe, Tongue, Ear, Mouth, Lip, Black, Indian . Meyoh. melah, an. ulhigh'. kashlo. lokkowouks. te ’tsum. chow wass. ’p’s swah. il quass. enneet. shappleel. t’kuinnat. owinnat. ’hat ’hot. moos moos stun. kosee. kosikkosee. quassass. wince. iyet. p’teeniks. asswan. pahhahtopat. wattekas. owhunghe. melleese. misshu (plu.) pesahmisshu* metolla’hhow. um, (plu.)pesah um. chernook. 400 VOCABULARY. White, pillas. Green, lahm’t. Yellow, penahkunnootowass. Red, klutsah. Good, seyah. Bad, chilooeet. High, ‘quaahme. Low, metee. Many, hugh’lak. Few, millah. Little, iksiks. Who? sindewah. What? sinmisswah. Knife, hahbittelme. Bow, toominpass. Arrow, kiasso. Gun, toowinpass. Sea, attackass. River, wannah. Lake, wattum. Mountain, ‘ke‘h. Hill, pussque. Valley, ‘tkop. Plain, tak. Here, itche. There, ekkone. Near, ‘tsahpah. Far off, weat‘tpah. Night, ‘tset. Day, echoosah. Where, minnan. When, mittach. I walk, inikwenahsah. I talk, sinewesah. None, chahow. VOCABULARY. 401 I know, I have known, I see, I hear, I taste, I smell, I, Thou, He, She, Head, Eye, Back, Come, Go, Give, Large, Smaller, Smallest, Beauty, All, True, False, Chief, Common men, My father, My mother, Elder brother, Younger brother, Sister, Husband, Yes, No, Beaver* Rabbit, assook sah. me we sah sooh sah. enahukheno sah. innasick sah. quatas sah. annookse sah. sah. imk‘. equak. equakiik. chlamtukh. tats‘k. koopkoop. winnum. winnak. annik. ‘nche. mi‘nche* ooksooks. seeghewah. k’lhweek. chawnumsisk. t‘sis. kooMtup. wullumteen. hahtootas. naheclas. nahnahnas. incoks. inchats. inman. deh. waht. wispuss. sin we. 35 402 VOCABULARY. Cat, Wolf, Bear, Otter, Laziness, Sleep, Soft, Strength, Swan, Goat, Beads, Cold, Hard, 1 lah‘s, 2 neep% 3 mettapt*, 4 peneep% 5 pahhat, 6 p‘tuhninis, 7 tooskas, 8 pahhahhemaht, 9 ‘tsawlawsimkah, 10 hotem, 11 lah‘swappena. VOCABULARY OE God, Heaven, Evil Spirit, Hell, Sun, Moon, Stars, Fire, Earth, wasswass. enahte. ‘hollees. nooksi. ilkkah. ‘tsotah. uquatuquat. h‘too. wahhalow. powyanin. k c pput. ‘tsoisah. k‘ttet‘k. 12 neep‘twappena, 13 mettaptwappena, 20 neeptit, 30 mettaptit, 40 peneeptit, 50 pahhaptit, 60 p‘tuhninsaptit, 70 tooskahsaptit, 80 pahhahtusap c tit, 90 ‘tsaulochsaptit, 100 potemtit. CALAPOOA NATION. ‘ntsompate. ahlupklooah. ehwakehe. owievenah. ‘npeun. ‘ntope. ‘ntsalowah. ummi. umpullo. THE VOCABULARY. 403 Wind, Water, Wood, Stone, Bone, House, Bread, Fish, Deer, Elk, Bird, Horse, Cow, Dog, Boat, Man, Woman, Boy, Girl, I, Thou, He, She, My father, Your father, My mother, Elder brother, Sister, Husband, Wife, Yes, No, Head, Mouth, Chin, ‘ntolouh. ‘mpahke. owattuk. ‘ntaugh. ‘ntsa. ummi‘. shappleel. ‘ntumuak. ammoke £ . ‘ntokah. noknok. kuetan. moosmoos. £ n‘tul. ‘mpaw. ‘noihee. ehwahktsut. ehwahpyah. ‘mpeena. tsa. mah. annoihe. ahwahkkotsut. hum nee. makkan nee. sin nee. tah. shetup. tahwahke. tahwahke. aw. kussowe. unquah. tinte. ‘tlak. 404 VOCABULARY. Teeth , Arm, Hand, Finger, Foot, Ear, Black, White, Blue, Green, Red, Good, Bad, High, Low, Many, Few, Large, Smallj Who, What, Knife, Bow, Arrow, Gun, Sea, River, Lake, Mountain* Valley, Night, Day, Here, There, Near, tinte. t'ntooque. tdakquah. taw‘nah. teuofoh. toandunkahtah. mo‘. mow‘. ‘mpulunk. pitchish. ‘tselow. misso. kaskah. tshamayunk. wallah. milloe. ‘mponuk. pellah. etoo. me‘eh. annikkee. ‘nkamistik. unchin. un‘owsuk. sukwallahlah. mullak. ‘ntsok. wassetnummeke. peotahmefook. wallah. mooyoo. ‘mpeyon. m‘hash. piefan. ‘mchillah. VOCABULARY. 405 Far off, mdokkio. Where, mutchoo. When, tahnondeh. To talk, tanuk. To walk, owallowah. None, ‘nwa. I see, chats‘onhot‘n. Beaver, ‘nkipeah. All, teloh. Chief, ‘ntsombeek. Common men, anwoekee. Come, mahek. Go, tattea. Give, mahaque. Swan, mow. Rabbit, umpon. Wolf, molent. Bear, ( mmo. Sleep, towi. Hard, ‘p‘tsakkolloo. Soft, ‘mput‘1. Boil, liplip. 1 towneh, 10 teeneefeahah, 2 kamah, 11 teenefeahpetownah. 3 peshin, 12 teenefeahpekamah. 4 tohwah, 20 keefotenefeah. 5 wul, 30 p £ shintenefeah. 6 taffo, 40 tohwatenefeah. 7 p £ sinmewe, 50 wultenefeah. 8 ke‘mewe. 100 tenefeah. 9 ‘quisteh, 1000 tumpeah. VOCABULARY OF THE CHENOOK LANGUAGE AS SPOKEN ABOUT FORT VANCOUVER. God, Cannum. Heaven, coosah, 406 VOCABULARY. Earth, illaha. Fire, olaptska. ' Water, isuck. Sea, wecoma. River, ibolt. Sun, otlah. Moon, ootleum. Evil spirit, skokoom. Hell, skokoom. Boat, conim. Knife, opitsah. Gun, sucwallal. Powder, poolalla. Ball, colietan. Air, kummataz. i, nika. Thou, mika. He, yahkah. She, yahkah. It or them, klaska. Chief, tie. Boy, kaskas. Girl, 1‘kpho. Sister, ahts. Father, tilecummama. Mother, stdlmama. People, tilecum. Yes, ah, aha. No, wayick or wake. Good, close. Bad, wake close. Very bad, mestsa. Large, hias. Small, tunas. Far, sia. VOCATJLARY. 407 Little way, Great way, To go fast, Not fast, Black, White, Blue, Red, Green, High, Low, Now, Much, Little, Who, What, Mountain, Valley, Where, Here, Night, None, Bear, Beaver, Fox, Wolf, Deer, Horse, Cow, Dog, Salmon, Bird, Speak, I speak, Thou speakest, tunas sia. hias sia. clatua hiuc. wake hiuc. klaait. t’koop. spock. pelpil. peteish. saghalle. kekulle. witka. oghooway. tunas. ‘tkaksta. ikta. saghalle illaha. kekulle illaha. cah. ookook. pollakle. haloo. siano. eena. tiskowkow. leelo. moueech. kuetan. moosmoos. kamux. quanagh. kallakalla. wawa. nica wawa. mica wawa. 408 VOCABULARY. He speaks, They speak, Make, I make, Thou makest, He makes, They make, Come, Perhaps, or 1 do not know Understand, I understand, Now I understand, Sleep, I have, or it is with me, I walk, Long ago, See, Eat, 1 eght, 2 moxt, 3 none, 4 ‘lakit, 5 quinum, 6 tohhum, 7 sinnamox, yakka wawa. klaska wawa. mammook, nica mammook. mica mammook. yakka mammook. klaska mammook. chawko. clunas. cumetax. nica cumetax. alta nica cumetax. moosom. mitlit nica. nica clatuwa. aunacotta. noneneech. mucamuc. 8 stoghtkin, 9 quiitz, 10 taughlelum, 20 moxttaghlelum, 40 ‘lakittaghlelum, 100 taughlelum taughlelum The Philologist, by examining the specimens of the lan- guages in the foregoing vocubularies, will notice how en- tirely distinct they are from each other, and may form his own opinions in regard to their origin. The languages of other Indian nations are equally distinct. The use of the commas, as in ‘ke‘h, mountain, ‘noihee, man, is designed to designate a guttural sound, wholly inarticulate. 0