Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/howtomakephotogrOOroch < £ o % f UJ ,? ^ Q. (8 S 5 oujZ £Z £ o < tISQ. to W9 °^.E OCL fs 2 s- ©♦— INTRODUCTION. T)HOTOGRAPHY has at length enlisted that public in- terest it really deserves, for it is found to be almost in- dispensable in all the arts and professions. Not only so, but the artist and the artisan, the professor and the student, the man of letters or of leisure, the matron or the maid may one and all derive infinite pleasure as well as profit from the prac- tice of this fascinating pursuit. Simplified by the introduction of the sensitive gelatino- bromide dry plates, it is now within the power of any one to become proficient at little expenditure of time or means. It is alike adapted to old and young, male and female ; indeed many ladies have already become very expert and have openly declared in favor of it. The fact that neither hands nor cloth- ing need now be soiled, as was so often the case with the old “wet” process, renders it extremely popular. The burdensome paraphernalia of the past has been utter- ly discarded, the only impedimenta now required being seen in Fig. i. This is a very important consideration, especially for outdoor photography, when the apparatus must necessarily V 11 INTRODUCTION. be borne to the spot where the subjects are. Fig. 2 represents the amateur at work, with tripod set up, and camera adjusted. Fig. 3 similarly illustrates a lady enthusiastically endeavoring to secure an instantaneous picture of her pet poodle. This hand-book is published for the purpose of aiding those who have had no previous expe- rience in photography, so that by merely read- ing it the amateur may acquire all the necessary knowledge for the use of the apparatus and the Fig. 1. management of the various chemical and other incidental manipulations. It is considered inexpedient to include within the scope of these pages the mode of making the gelatino-bromide plates themselves ; but few of those who may use them for any purpose would care to incur the expense and trouble involved in their preparation. Dr. Eder’s work on the subject (costing $1) contains all the re- Fig. 2. quisite instruction, both theroretical and practical. Sensitized albumen pa- per is also prepared on a large scale, and sold by all dealers in photograph- ic materials ; it is therefore quite un- necessary to go into the details of that manufacture. This practical informa- tion can be found in a work entitled the Art and Practice of Silver Printing (costing $1) and published by ourselves. Cer- INTRODUCTION. IX tainly no one having once used the sensitized paper furnished by our house will ever undertake to provide it for himself. But the greatest achievement of all, perhaps, is the prepara- tion of a sensitive printing paper with gelatino bromide of silver, the same substance used for the negatives, with which any one can instantly print without the aid of the sun. This will be explained for the first time farther, on. The works above alluded to are handsomely bound in cloth. A cheaper edition in paper may be had, if preferred. Should any one need a more extended list of apparatus and photographic materials than is herein contained, we shall be pleased to mail a copy of our complete catalogue. E. & H. T. ANTHONY & CO. CHAPTER I. Preliminary. TN setting out to make photographic negatives there are va- rious articles necessary to be procured, all of which are to be used in a certain order. Some of these articles are to be employed in obtaining the action of the desired object upon the dry plate, and the others are to be used for devel- oping and rendering visible such action. The former are — 1. The dry plate. 2. The lens, camera, and focussing cloth. 3. The shield for holding the plate, frequently also called a plate-holder. 4. The camera stand. 5. A room adapted for transferring the plates, so that no injurious light shall at any time fall upon them. As an ad- junct to this room, a light. 6. A proper lamp. These being ail provided and in readiness, the first thing to do is to place the sensitive plates in the plate-holders, with- PRELIMINARY. I I in which they can be perfectly shielded from the light. As this cannot be done in the dark, a suitable lamp is lit and plates, as taken out of the box, they will be found to have a mat surface and a bright one. The mat surface is the one upon which the negative must be made, and should be placed in the plate-carrier so that it faces outward. A plate-holder or shield consists of three distinct parts, the body or frame, the two slides — one on each side of the body — and the plate-carrier, which occupies the middle interior space. The plate - carrier straps, dr loops, are turned into place. It is unnecessary to withdraw the slides or shutters except when exposing the plate, as hereafter mentioned. After putting the plates in the shields the remaining ones should be carefully covered up to protect them from the light. these are then taken into the dark room. The package contain- ing the dry plates is then opened and a plate slid into each com- partment of the shields. Upon examining the it is pushed into the cen- tral interior space of the frame and the little brass into it, as above described, holds two plates, and when the latter have been put HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. I 2 These shields not only serve to hold the plates, but they are arranged to fit on the camera in a certain position. The camera, in conjunction with the lens, the ground glass (on which the focus is obtained) and focussing cloth, is the instrument by which the image of the object to be taken is conveyed to the sensitive plate. The lens is attached to the front of the camera, and has upon it a little leather cap, and while this cap is on no light CAMERA AND LENS WITH $10 EQUIPMENT. from the lens can pass into the camera. To the back of the camera, which is adjustable as to the distance from the front, is applied the ground glass, by means of which the proper position of the sensitive plate contained in the shield is deter- mined. When thus fixed this focussing glass is removed, and the shield is put into its place, the surface of the sensitive plate now occupying exactly the position of the surface of the ground glass before its removal. At this moment all is dark inside of the camera, and inside of the plate shield — the slide PRELIMINARY. *3 or door of the shield not being withdrawn and the leather cap still covering the lens. To make the exposure of the plate first draw out entirely the slide or door of the shield nearest the lens, and then, when you have your watch ready to indicate the number of seconds to be given, the leather cap is very gently lifted off the light CAMERA AND LENS WITH $12 EQUIPMENT. allowed to pass through to the plate during the proper interval of exposure, and the cap is replaced upon the front of the lens ; then, holding the slide exactly parallel with the shield, push it entirely back into the groove. This plate is now ready for the next operation, the develop- ment, which is done in the dark room. As there is another plate, however, in the other compartment of the shield, care must be taken to mark the one already exposed, so that it cannot be used a second time. It remains now to describe in detail the method of applying the camera, for the purpose of getting it into position and se- curing the image. As this instrument must be supported at 14 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. a height convenient for the eye of the operator, a tripod or three-legged stand is provided for that purpose, the former being secured to it by means of a screw, which passes through the top of the stand into its counterpart in the bottom of the bed. The tripod is then set by so separating its feet as to bring the camera into a horizontal position. The subject must now be focussed. It may be observed that in outfits of the better class, for the purpose of portabil- ity, a portion of the bed of the camera is folded. This is brought down to a horizontal position and kept firm by means of a long screw, which passes through the adjoining rails of the bed. The adjustable, rear part of the camera carrying the ground glass can now be moved, first to a mark which indicates very nearly its proper place, and there be fastened by a short upright binding screw running in a groove on the middle rail of the bed. The final, accurate focussing must be done by throwing the black cloth over the rear part of the camera, thus shutting off all outside light from the focussing glass EXPOSURE. 15 Now, by putting the head under this cloth and at the same time uncapping the lens, any lack of sharpness in the picture may be seen and corrected by turning the horizontal adjust- ing screw. As soon as this is accomplished turn the camera on its stand until the exact limits of the desired subject are depicted on the ground glass, tighten the screw which attaches the camera to the top of the stand, put the cap on the lens and you are ready for applying the plate shield. The lens is a part of the apparatus with which the owner has nothing to do except to keep it clean, protecting it from dust and from being scratched. Is is provided with dia- phragms, the use of which will be treated of under the head of exposure. Exposure . By exposure is meant the interval between the uncapping and recapping of the lens, as above described, and during which the sensitive surface of the plate in the shield has been exposed to the action of the light. This necessary act is at- tended with more uncertainty, and requires more judgment and experience, than any other in the course of taking a neg- ative. One picture may be taken in the fifth part of a second, while another may require an hour. The exposure is controlled by two different causes, viz., the strength of the light and the area of aperture in the dia- phragm used. These diaphragms are small plates of iron or brass, all of the same external size, but having central circu- lar holes of different sizes. They are usually contained in a leather case, and fit in a slit in the brass mounting of the i6 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. lens, and the quantity of light that passes through in a given time is necessarily dependent upon the area of this • hole or opening. As the effect upon the plate depends on the quan- tity of light falling upon it in a given time, the exposure must therefore be much shorter when that light is allowed to pass through a large opening than when it comes through a very small one. Consequently, to obtain upon the plate with a small opening the same effect as is produced in a given time by the larger one, the exposure with the former opening must be proportionally prolonged. After having ascertained by experience about the time of exposure required by any one opening with a given lens, that for any other opening is a matter of calculation, and will be shown hereafter. As most of the pictures will be of landscapes (we will assume by one of our $10 outfits), a well lighted landscape taken with a diaphragm having an open- ing of one-quarter of an inch in diameter will require an exposure of one and a half to two seconds. This furnishes a starting-point for beginners to go by. Plates that have been exposed in the camera, but not yet subjected to the subsequent operations of developing the latent image nor the final one of fixing (afterwards to be de- scribed), must be as carefully protected against the action of ordinary sunlight, gaslight or candlelight, as those that have not. By a well lighted landscape above is meant a sunlit scene, and the time of exposure (say) two seconds, is. sufficient for a one-quarter inch diaphragm. Now if we desire to work more quickly and use a one-half inch diaphragm, the neces- THE DEVELOPMENT. *7 sary exposure would be in the inverse proportion of their squares. As the area of the one-half inch opening is four times that of the one-quarter inch, the exposure with the one- quarter inch opening will be one-fourth that of the latter, or, in other words, one-half of a second, and vice versa. As a de- fect in the time of exposure may be remedied in the develop- ment, extreme accuracy in these calculations is not absolutely necessary ; with a little practice and judgment one will get over this difficulty. As the exposure depends upon the strength of the light piimarily, it is proper to mention in this connection that the strength of sunlight varies very much according to the season of the year, being the greatest in midsummer and the least in midwinter ; and these lights are occasionally modified, in summer by being very much reduced by a yellow tinge in the atmosphere, and increased by a covering of light, fleecy clouds, and in winter it is augmented by the presence of snow on the ground. The best pictures are not produced by exposing during the middle of the day ; in the morning or afternoon, when the rays of the sun are more removed from the perpendicular, the most pleasing effects are secured. The Development . The exposure has no visible effect on the negative, out its action can be rendered visible by the subsequent ap- plication of a liquid called a developer. This brings us to the recapitulation of the articles required for that purpose. The other articles have been used in the light ; these, on the 1 i8 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. other hand, must all be used in the dark room ; and it should be understood that the shields containing the exposed plates must in no case be opened until they are safely lodged in the dark room for the purpose of developing. The articles to be provided are as follows: 1. Japanned iron dishes, or other trays, according to size of plate. 2. Glass graduates. 3. Glass funnels. > 4. Glass stirring rods. 5. Litmus paper. 6. Filtering* paper. 7. Bottle for containing saturated solution of oxalate of potash. 8. Bottle for containing saturated solution of sulphate of iron. 9 . Bottle for containing solution of bromide of potassium, twelve grains to one ounce of water. 10. Bottle for containing saturated solution of common alum. 11. Bottle for containing solution of hyposulphite of soda, one ounce of hyposulphite to eight ounces of water. 12. A pair of scales weighing grains, and a larger one for ounces and pounds. The development is effected by mixing together the oxalate of potash, the protosulphate of iron and the bromide solution, in different proportions. For that purpose pour into one graduate three fluid ounces of the oxalate solution, and into THE DEVELOPMENT. *9 another one fluid ounce of the iron solution, and into another two drams of the bromide solution. Place these on a conven- ient table in the dark room. Into the graduate contain- ing the oxalate solution pour two drams of the iron solution, and five or ten drops of the bro- mide solution, and mix thor- oughly. This constitutes the developer . The door of the dark room must now be closed, and one of the japanned trays placed on the ta- ble. Take one of the exposed piates out of a shield, place it face upwards in the tray and immediately pour the developer all over it rapidly, so as to avoid making any stains or streaks. Keep the developer moving over the face of the plate by rock- ing the tray. In from twenty to thirty seconds (if the exposure has been right) dark spots will begin to appear on the surface. These show where the light has acted most strongly on the plate, and indicate what are called the high lights of the picture. By al- lowing the developer to act longer the high lights will become barker, and the other portions of the picture will begin to show themselves by a gradual blackening. In case this gradual action of the developer appears to be * irrested and the surface of the plate remains partly black and partly light-colored, pour off" the developer into its graduate, add to it one more dram of the iron solution and again pour t upon the plafe. This will renew the blackening, and it 20 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. the exposure has been correct will probably be sufficient to complete the development, which is known by seeing the black veil just obscuring the parts that had remained light-colored. Now pour the developer off, take the plate out of the tray and look at the back of it. If the development can be distinctly observed on the back it may be considered finished. The negative must now be well washed and then put into the fixing bath. This developer may be used for another plate, provided it is employed immediately. If no other plate is ready it can be thrown away, unless it is kept and again used in the man- ner hereafter described. The fixing bath is the solution of hyposulphite of soda, which is poured into a tray. The plate being placed in it face upwards is left, with occasional rocking, until all the white coating on it is dissolved. This is indicated when, by look- ing at the back of the plate, no trace of the coating is seen. A very copious washing in cold water must now be given, in order to get rid of the hyposulphite of soda. The nega- tive is now finished, and can be taken out into the light and put away in any convenient place to drain and dry. It may as well be observed here that the gelatine which forms the coating of the plate is very soluble in warm water ; all the solutions above mentioned should be cool, not over 60 deg. Fahr. In cold weather the water used is generally cold enough, but during the summer it mu?t be artificially cooled. As an additional precaution in warm weather, the plate after development should be allowed to lie a few min- utes in a saturated solution of alum before* being placed in THE DEVELOPMENT. 21 the fixing bath. The alum solution need not be washed off. The remarks in the above paragraph have no reference to Eastman's “tropical dry plates,” manufactured for us, that may be submitted to solutions at any temperature without injury, and used in any climate. Having thus described in the fewest words and in the most simple manner the process of making a negative, the begin- ner's attention will now be called to various details, upon the due understanding of which his success as a proficient dry plate worker will depend. CHAPTER II. Photographic Lenses . ENSES are made in various styles, and combined in numerous forms to produce different effects. In se- lecting these the purchaser should carefully examine the dif- ferent kinds, and decide in favor of the one that comes nearest to his (or her) requirements, for there is no single variety to be had that will an- swer absolutely for all purposes ; in- deed it is improbable that such will no. i dry plate lens, ever be made. The simplest form is what is termed a “single combina- tion. ” It appears to be but one lens only, though in reality it is two sealed together. One is of flint glass, the other of crown. A judicious or proper combination of the two “achromatizes” them. This “single achromatic lens” is suited for general landscape work, but not for architectural pictures, as it does not yield rectilinear lines, i. e . , a picture of a house, where the latter nearly covers the plate, would show PHOTOGRAPHIC LENSES, 2 3 the sides of the building curved or “barrel-shaped;” on the contrary, reversing the lens and using it in that position on the same subject would render the outlines “mortar-shaped,” i. e., curved inward as they ap- proach the centre. Hence, to produce strictly rectilinear pic- tures a combination of the two above-stated results must be re- sorted to, giving what is termed a “double achromatic combi na- • NO 2 . DRY PLATE LENS. tion. ” When a lens of single combination is selected, to cover the plate sharply a small opening or diaphragm must be usid, the illuminating principle of a lens being the same as that of a window, i. e., the larger the opening the greater the quantity of light admitted. When very rapid expo- sures are desired, a lens must be used that needs no diaphragms, and at the same time 10 4x5 RAPID DRY covers the plate sharply. It requires a cer- plate lens. tain degree of light to act suffi- ciently on the sensitized plate to produce the proper effects, and, although this period of exposure is reduced to a minimum by the ad- vent of such quick-working dry 4x5 rapid dry plate lens plates as Eastmans “Special'* brand, with which almost marvellous results have been obtain- ed, the lens must be chosen that will best suit the operation. 24 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. In enumerating them, we shall confine ourselves to a few only of the different styles, those that in our practical working have proven to be best adapted to cover every want. These can be placed under three general headings, beginning with — I. Ordinary Single Achromatic Lenses. Suited for general landscape work and buildings, where the latter do not take too prominent a position in the picture. The wood-cuts nicely illustrate the appearance of the lenses, which are made expressly for the purpose, and are all that could be desired. In a good, bright sun- light, they will not require more than from three to five seconds, to admit of a full exposure. Anthony’s No. i Dry Plate Lens THE E. A. VIEW LENS. .... . . . is a single achromatic combination, covering sharply a plate of 4 x 5 inches, and furnished singly or in matched pairs for stereoscopic work. Anthony’s No. 2 Dry Plate Lens is made in the same style as No. i,. but larger, covering a plate of 5 x 8 inches. The E. A. View Lens is a single achromatic, with rack and pinion for focussing, and extra diaphragms in the front hood. II. Ordinary Double Combination Lenses. The remarkable “ Platy scope Lens ” is a double achromatic combination for making architectural, indoor, instantaneous views, groups, and, in fact, any style of view from ordinary dis- PHOTOGRAPHIC LENSES. 25 tances. Each lens has a complete set of diaphragms in a leather case. (See wood-cut below. ) . Anthony’s 4x5 Rapid Dry Plate Lens, has a double ach- romatic combination for making instantaneous views and por- traits, groups, etc. The lens ts £fcu§sefl with the full open- ing, the flange being removable for the insertion of the diaphragm. (There is no other size of this style.) Ill • Dallmeyer’ s Combination Lenses • These celebrated lenses are made by the most eminent op- tician in the world, and have proved to be without equals. They cost correspondingly, but to any one desirous of pro- ducing the finest results, that are only attainable by using the very best of instruments, the quality of the lens should be a matter of serious consideration. The fact that they are in daily use by almost every profes- sional photographer throughout the globe who claims to pro- duce good work should be sufficient proof that their merits are not overrated. We shall not speak of the long line of single and double achromatic combinations, but merely of 26 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. two of them, that will be found excellent and ample for any work the amateur may wish to perform. They are both known as Rectilinear lenses, and give mathematically correct lines over the entire plate. The Dallmeyer Rapid Rectilinear lens is suited for instantaneous views, architectural subjects, portraits, groups, copies of maps, drawings, dimly lighted interiors, etc., etc., covering the plate more sharply and working more quickly than any other lens known. Each one has a full set of Waterhouse diaphragms in mo- rocco case. Dallmeyer’s Wide Angle Rectilinear lens embraces an exceedingly wide angle, and is indispensable for pictures of buildings, rooms, etc., where but a very short distance from the object can be ob- tained. As only small diaphragms can be used, the latter are all made on a circular revolving plate. This lens can also be used for landscapes, by removing the rear lens and using the front combination alone . When thus employed, the field will be similar to that of an ordinary landscape lens of the same focus. With one each of the “ Rapid ” and “Wide Angle” Dall- meyer Rectilinear lenses, the amateur or artist can feel fully equipped for any views he may wish to photograph of still or active life. Practically, he will be possessed of three of the most useful lenses for general photography ever made. rfNTNON'f CAMERAS. 27 Care of Lenses, When not in use the lens should always be kept covered with its cap. If dusty, clean the giass with some old, soft linen or chamois leather, but never with cotton or silk. Igno- rance of this fact has often ruined many a fine lens. The flange or collar of the lens tube is fastened to the front part, or the front board of the camera, and the tube containing the lens either slides or screws into this collar. It is generally re- moved when the camera is packed up, rolled in tissue paper, and, if small, placed inside the body of the camera for safe keeping and carriage. Cameras, The camera, we have s.en, is so arranged as to exclude all rays of light from falling upon the sensitized plate, except CAMERA AND LENS WITH NO. 5 EQUIPMENT. those that come through the lens. The nearer we approach the object to be photographed, the greater must be the dis- tance between the lens and the sensitized plate ; and to be able to effect this it is made in two parts, the front one being attached solidly to the bed, and the rear part admitting of 28 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. being moved closer to or farther from the front, as required. The wood to which the lens is attached is sometimes solid, i. e . , an integral part of the camera, or the lens may be fasten- ed to what is termed a “front board,” which fits in an open- ing cut to receive it. By this latter arrangement lenses of different foci, mounted on interchangeable panels, may be used as necessary to obtain the desired result. The rear part of the camera is held in position by a milled-headed nut, (or focussing screw). Between front and rear is placed a bellows, made either of linen, rubber cloth or leather, which allows the rear part to be moved forward and back readily. The ground glass at the back rests on dowel pins, and is held in position at the top by a hook. In our Novel Camera, the ground glass frame is made smaller than the camera, and is held against it by hooks catching on pins inserted in the frame. Folding Bed. Some cameras (especially our Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8,) are made with what are termed folding beds. The bed is then made in two parts hinged together, and when packed for transportation the projecting pad: is folded up against the ground glass, serving as a protection to it, and admitting of a large camera being packed in small compass. When in use, a screw fastens these by bolting the two sections of the bed together ; when not in use the screw is carried in one of the cross rails. Focussing Screw and Back. This is an arrangement for focussing the camera and hold- ing it in position. The button or milled-headed nut, as on RISING FRONT. 2 9 our No. 1, 2 and 3 cameras are thereby dispensed with. The focussing screw is placed in the slot in the centre rail of the bed, and the body of it is held at any desired point by a bolt which passes through it, the head of the bolt running in the transverse slot ; a round nut on the bolt holds it firmly to the bed. The screw- is placed on the front of this body, between its shoulders, a groove being turned in it to fit these, and the thread of the screw is inserted in a plate attached to the rear or sliding part of the camera. By turning this about half way in, unfastening the bolt, and grasping the body of the focussing screw with the fingers, the rear part of the cam- era is moved until very nearly the proper focus is obtained. Then fasten the body firmly, and, by turning the focussing screw by its milled head, the focus can be adjusted very finely. Great attention must be paid to this, and it should be done slowly, for on it will depend much of one’s success. A pic- ture out of focus looks misty and blurred. If a camera with focussing rack and folding bed be used, and it is desired to pack up before removing the screw or bolt that holds the bed straight, see that the rack be run in as far as possible, and does not project over the joint in the bed. Want of this precaution has often bent and ruined the focussing screw. Rising Front . Our Nos. 4, 5 and 6 cameras have what is called a “rising front. ” This is an extra front to the entire face of the camera, and admits of raising or lowering the lens. Should you be on a hill and wish to make a view of the valley before you, it 3 ° HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. would appear on the ground glass to be nearly all sky. To take in more of the scene lower the lens, without tilting the CAMERA AND LENS WITH NO. 6 EQUIPMENT. camera, which must be kept as nearly horizontal as possible. By means of a sliding front you can thus lower the lens to include the desired view. If in a valley, desiring to photo- graph the surrounding hills, you should raise the front cor- respondingly. Kovel Cameras . These differ widely from any other produced in our market, and possess qualities that render them superior to all others. The body of the camera can readily be detached from the bed (the -latter remaining on the tripod) and replaced in either position, so as to present the plate either vertically or horizon- tally. The method employed to produce this result will be found very satisfactory. The 5 x 8, 6^ x 8^ and 8 x io include the partition and an extra front board for stereoscopic views. NOVEL CAMERAS. 3 1 The rear may be moved forward or backward in the same wav as with the ordinary camera, so that all parts of the sub- ject may be dearly defined on the ground glass, the sharp- ness or delineation of it depending entirely on the degree of accuracy with which the focus has been obtained. Should you wish to include more of the view in the picture than is 32 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. shown on the ground glass, move the instrument further away and focus again, until you obtain the desired result. The ground side of the focussing glass should always face inward. Plate- Holders or Shields . Our new, patented shield or plate-holder, styled the “ per- fect, ” differs from any other in the manner of inserting the plates and securing them in position. This shield is described on page n. In addition to the metallic loops which secure the plate-carrier within the shield, the slides are prevented from being accidentally opened by means of a spring and catch, which work automatically. When the plates have been slid into place in the carrier they should be cleansed from dust with a camebs-hair brush, as above, which is called a blender. One great advantage of our patent shield is that it can be used for exposing plates of various sizes, as kits or inner frames of smaller size holding such plates can be slipped into the grooves. Thus an 8 x io shield can be used for any of the following plates (say) 6^ x 8^, 5 x 8, 5x7, 4x5, etc., as desired. We keep a line of these kits in stock of all the usual sizes. FOCUSSING CLOTH. 33 Tripods . The tops of the tripods, whether triangular or round, all have pins or projections on which the sockets in the top of the legs ^3 rest, when the latter are unfolded and the ~ apparatus set up. Figures 2 and 3 on page 8 show the position of the camera and tri- pod ready for focussing. A brass screw, that passes through the top from beneath and enters a plate in the bottom of the camera bed, securely holds the camera to the tripod, as previously stated. It is often the case that the view most desired must be made from a position where the grou'nd is very un- even. As it has been found almost im- possible, in some instances, to set the IP camera level, we have introduced what is called the telescopic tripod, any or all of the legs of which can be length- ened or shortened at pleasure, thus rendering it possi- ble to make many views that otherwise would be very difficult to obtain. Focussing Cloth . To clearly discern the image on the ground glass, the head and rear part of the camera should be covered with an opaque piece of cloth or dark velvet ; about 2x3 feet is a very good size. This is used only when focussing, and screens the light between the vision and the ground glass, enabling one to see clearly that the focus is correctly drawn . This may be made 34 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. purposely, or improvised in case of necessity from a garment. A piece of ordinary black muslin will suffice, if nothing else is convenient, or a cardboard hood, to fold flat against the camera, may be substituted. Focussing Lens. Another very convenient and, in some cases, necessary arti- cle for the amateur is a focussing lens. With this little in- strument (which, by the way, may be easily carried in the pocket) one is enabled to see with far more clearness when the lesser ob- jects in the picture are depicted distinctly on the ground glass. The lens is adjustable, so as to accommodate the vision of different persons, and is always held parallel to the ground glass by its three standards or feet. Necessarily, when once adjusted for a particular individual, the focus need not again be changed. CHAPTER III. TN the preceding chapter we have illustrated and described only the apparatus essential for the single act of procur- ing the latent image on the sensitive plate. The present one will include those articles provided for tie development of that image, or impression, and others incidentally useful in the subsequent operations at home. On a previous page, under the head of The Development , the following are enumerated : Japanned Iron Dishes or Trays . These are specially made for the purpose, of good strong sheet iron, afterwards covered with a coating of black japan varnish. They cm be had in sizes adapted to all the different dimensions of dry plates manufactured ; are quite inexpensive, and at the same time very strong. The glass and porcelain vessels formerly used were much more 3 6 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. costly and exceedingly fragile. Occasionally, however, from inattention or frequent use they become oxidized, and there- fore more or less unsightly and unserviceable. To correct this we prepare an excellent black varnish, which may be ap- plied, after removing the loose scales or rust and cleansing, by flowing it on and pouring off the excess, or by means of a brush. The tray should be warmed before the application and afterwards dried at a temperature of about 120 deg. Fahrenheit. Glass Graduaies . These may be had in many sizes, from a minim to a quart. They are not only useful i n measuring solutions, but are found convenient in developing the negatives, having lips which facilitate the act of pouring. Three or four of varying capa- city, according to the dimeh- sion of the plate in hand, will be sufficient. The annexed wood-cut represents a superior one we have lately introduced, in which the divisions are moulded in the glass, and are therefore much more accurate and reliable than those ordi- narily furnished. Due care must always be given to clean- liness. Before use, wash and rinse thoroughly. anthon\ 7 s developing bottle. 37 Combined Funnel and Filter . Like the foregoing, these are made in several sizes. The Combined Funnel and Filter, can be had in pints quarts or half gallons, and is of greatly improved form, the bulb admitting the pledget of prepared cotton through which the solutions percolate freely, unlike the ordinary funnel, wherein the cotton is apt to be compressed too tightly. The prices are not excessive. Glass Funnels and Graduates . The ordinary glass fun- nel without bulb, and the plain blown glass gradu- ates may also serve. They possess, at least, the merit of cheapness ; are easily kept clean and free from chemical contamination. Anthony’s Developing Bottle. The object in devising this vessel may be stated in a single word — economy. Formerly the developing solution, from the fact of its deterioration when exposed to the atmosphere, was always made afresh, resulting in no inconsiderable loss. It HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. will be seen that the bottle — an ordinary narrow- mouthed one — is perforated near the base and a piece of rubber tubing inserted, the opposite end of which passes through the cork. Now after the developer is poured into the bottle a small quantity of oil may be added, which, being lighter than the solution, will rise to the top, thus protecting it from the action of the atmosphere. The tubing, of course, admits of draw- ing off the developer from the bot- tom. After use, the solution can be returned to the bottle by way of the mouth ; the oil will always rise to the surface, nd exert no injurious chemical action. Negative or Drying Rack. This little rack or stand, which folds compactly if so de- sired, although not actually indispensable in the dark room, will prove quite service- able whenever a number of negatives are to be de- velopt d. A reference to the wood-cut will clearly suggest its construction and its use. The cor- rugations safely separate the plates in the act of drying, and receive them until they are stored away in — DARK ROOM AND LAMP. 39 The Negative Box . This also explains itself. The inside, it will be seen, is provided with grooves, into which the negatives may slide. In some the plates lie lengthwise, in others across the box. Its cor- ners are nicely rounded and the outside varnished. The smaller sizes usually hold twenty-four neg- atives. Stout brown paper envel- opes, known as negative preserv- ers, are also obtainable, on which are printed a form to record the No., subject or remarks. When the latter are used the box may be dispensed with, and the negatives laid on end or piled one above another on an or- dinary shelf. If neither are at hand, simply wrapping them separately in paper will be a protection. Bark Boom and Lamp . By a dark room is meant an apartment into which, when the door is shut, not a ray of light penetrates either by crevice or entrance. To test the room go into it, shut the door and remain a quarter of an hour. If at the expiration of that time no trace of outside light can be seen, the room may be consid- ered all right. If an opening admitting light is found, it must be effectually stopped by any convenient method. The dark room must necessarily be supplied with water and suffi- cient shelving. 40 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. Working entirely by night will render a specially arranged dark room unnecessary, but in ejthcr case a proper light will be required. As certain colors have the quality of more or less absorbing the photographically active com- ponents of ordinary white light, whether that of day or that produced by combustion, and as a dark ruby had been found veiy efficient, ruby globes or chimneys for lamps or gas jets are provided, which afford sufficient light to see by without danger to the plates exposed to it. In these lamps it will be seen that both the gas burner, upward and downward radiations from the yel- low flame are intercepted. The chimneys are made of what is technically known as copper-flash- ed glass, which is the only one that may be relied on. Ruby sheet glass and non-ac- tinic paper can be procured to modify the light in rooms lit from the outside. Anthony’s Perfect Dry Plate Lantern . Amateur photographers have frequently expressed a desire for a compact, safe, and simply constructed lantern for drv plate GARBUTT S DRY PLATE LANTERN. 4 work. This one fulfills all of these conditions, being not only as convenient and compact as that above described, but possessing the additional ad- vantage of almost perfect immu- nity from breakage of chim- ney, and consequent protection against fire. Each of its parts, it will be seen, are separable, and all are quickly and easily adjusted. There are no hinges to become dislocated nor wire armholes to break. It is easily lighted and extinguished ; the chimney will never crack ; it requires but little care to keep clean ; it can never get out of order ; it takes but little oil and affords a good light. Carbutt’s Multum, in JParvo Dry JPlate Lantern . An excellent substitute for the above, though more costly, is Carbutt’s Multum in Parvo Lantern. The following are some of the advantages claimed for it : It saves your eyesight. It is simple and easy to manage ; nothing complicated, yet has three separate and distinct forms of light. It is adapt- ed for the use of either oil or gas ; is about nine inches square by fourteen high, with eight by ten deep ruby glass in front. Each lantern is provided with a coal oil lamp, with improved patent burner, and silvered reflector, which 42 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. may be revolved in any direction and operated from the out- side. By removing the revolving lamp bed, a hole will be found through which a gas burner can be introduced. It can be used for seven or more different operations in photography, several of which have never been combined in any one lantern, to wit : Lantern arranged for making positives by contact. 1. A safe light for the preparation of gelatino- bromide emulsion. 2. A safe light for the coating of gelatino-bromide plates. 3. A safe light for developing the most sensitive plates ; while for preparing developer or doing other work the room can be instantly flooded with white light, and as quickly changed to the red, giving’ abundance of light by which to develope the largest sized plates used. The adjustable hood effectually shields the eyes from the glare of the red light, a matter of the greatest importance to those having a large CARBUTTS DRY PLATE LANTERN. 43 number of negatives to develope, or other work to perform necessitating red light. 4. An opal light by which to examine negatives or posi- tives after fixing, enabling the operator to judge of their quality, thereby avoiding the necessity of leaving the dark room in search of white light. 5. A clear transparent light for making positives on glass Lantern arranged for developing, and after fixing, examining negatives by opal light. (gelatino-bromide) ; this feature is a valuable one ; any one can materially add to his pleasure by making these most j beautiful products of photography. 6. The making of enlarged negatives from gelatine posi- tives, placed in front of the opal light. 7. The making of photo-micrographs with the clear, trans- , parent light, which can readily be accomplished with the gelatino-bromide plate and the microscope. 44 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. 8. By the adjustment of condensers and holder for slides and objective in front of the clear light, a very effective magic lantern is formed. Anthony’s Dry Plate Safety Box . In outward appearance this resembles an ordinary nega- tive box, though not so deep ; but within, instead of grooves, it has a close-fitting cover lined with black velvet, so as to guard the plates against any possible intrusion of light. These of any size up to 8 x io may be removed from the original packages, and safely kept in this box until transferred to the plate-holder. Plates . Throughout this essay when plates are mentioned it must be understood that the Eastman plates, sold by E. & H. T. An- thony & Co. and their customers, are alone referred to. There are different brands of these, viz., the “Special/’ which are es- pecially useful for portraiture, instantaneous views, and dimly lighted interiors; the “ Rapid ” and “ Instantaneous, ” which are useful for landscapes, copying, taking negatives of ma- chinery and all still life subjects, and the “ Tropical,” which can be developed with water at any temperature, and therefore are peculiarly adapted for general use in hot weather and climates. Memorandum : in handling plates always take them by the edges, and do not allow the fingers to touch the sensi- tive surface. As a general rule do not allow any object to come in contact with it, as mere pressure produces an effect which is brought out by the developer and may injuriously affect the PLATES. 45 negatives. After a box of plates has been opened, and for the purpose of avoiding the inconvenience of again wrapping them in the papers in which they were packed, those not placed in the shields may be kept in the light-tight ‘‘Safety” boxes, as above, which are made expressly for the purpose CHAPTER IV. Details of Development. TTfE have already said that the defects of exposure may " V be remedied by the treatment of the plate in devel- opment. We do not mean to say that a very great under-ex- posure or over-exposure can be remedied, but a moderate de- fect one way or the other may be. In giving the formula for the developer we measure out three ounces of the solution of oxalate, one ounce of the iron, and five to ten drops of the bromide. It is the province of the oxalate solution to com- bine with the iron of the iron solution, forming the ferrous oxalate, which is the active developing material ; and it is the province of the bromide solution to restrain the action of the ferrous oxalate upon the sensitive surface. The formula for mixing the developer previously given is that which has been found best adapted for a properly exposed plate, but a much under-exposed plate could not be developed with the quantity of the iron solution used in that instance. So long as the negative shows light-colored portions that fail to become covered with the dark veil, which properly should be seen on the entire surface of the plate before the negative can DETAILS OF DEVELOPMENT. 47 be considered thoroughly developed, so long must the iron solution continue to be added to the developer. In some instances it may be necessary to add all of the iron solution at first poured out. In case the plate after using this full strength of the de- veloper still lacks its proper character, it will be of no use to add any more of the iron solution, as it is now saturated, and the addition of the least particle more of it will cause a decomposition of the developer — a precipitate of a yellowish color being produced, which sticks to the surface of the plate like sand — and the solution will at once cease to act as a de- veloper. It will, in fact, begin to react, and will soon redis- solve the image which had already been developed. This fact shows the importance of using the oxalate solution absolutely saturated, because, in case of the necessity at any time of using a large proportion of the iron solution, the iron might be add- ed in excess before the original ounce poured out was entirely used, and thus the developer be spoiled. A saturated solution of any salt is obtained when more of the soluble salt is placed in the water than will dissolve, in which case the excess will remain lying undissolved on the bottom of the vessel. If the water be warmed slightly a saturated solu- tion can be more readily and surely made. Having found this plate under-exposed, and you have others which may be also, proceed otherwise. We have said that the bromide is a re- strainer of the action of the oxalate of iron ; and, as there was some of the bromide solution used in that developer, try the next plate without any bromide at all, using merely the oxalate ol potash and the two drams of iron. 48 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. If the development proceeds gradually, as it ought to do, all very well ; but if upon the addition of more of the iron, as may become necessary, the picture seems to develope and become black too quickly, pour off the developer, add a few drops of the bromide, which will restrain the action of the developer and continue the development, and so on to the end. It will be seen from the above that by the skillful use of the developer defects in exposure may be remedied. In some cases it may not be necessary to use the bromide at all, as, for instance, of instantaneous exposures, where the action of the light has been so short that the full strength of the developer is required. It may be here observed that the oxalate develop- er, after being once used, can be kept in one of Anthony’s De- veloping Bottles and utilized repeatedly. Instructions for the use of the bottle have already been given. Before using the oxalate of potash solution, it must be tested with the blue litmus paper. If the paper turns slightly red, it shows that the solution is somewhat acid, which it prop- erly should be. If, however, the paper remains blue, it is evi- dent that the solution is either neutral or alkaline ; in that case sufficient of a solution of oxalic acid should be added to cause the litmus paper to turn slightly red. If too much oxalic acid be added it is prejudicial, for it delays the action of the developer and tends to make hard negatives.. In pre- paring the saturated solution of Anthony’s pure protosulphate of iron, it is necessary t3 add to it one drop of pure sulphuric acid to each fluid ounce, immediately after it is made. As may have been inferred from what has gone before, all DETAILS OF DEVELOPMENT. 49 negatives are not alike, and while three persons may each take one of the same view at the same time, all may be dif- ferent, yet each negative may produce a satisfactory print, although one may be better than the two others. These differences may be caused by variations in the ex- posure and in the degree to which the development has been carried. A negative is, in other words, an opposite of the scene depicted as regards light, the high lights of the natural scene being represented by black in the negative and the shades by more or less transparence to light, and the deepest shadows by bare glass, through which light passes without interruption. The print made from this is called a positive, and in this the high lights and shadows appear as in na- ture. All negatives that are imperfect are called either under- exposed, or over-exposed. A negative developed with too acid a developer has the same characteristics as an under- exposed one. An under-exposed negative has the blacks very dense and the half tones harsh and inharmonious ; an over- exposed negative, however, is flat, i. e., the high lights are not vigorous, while the half tones are nearly as strong as the high lights, and every detail is conspicuously shown in the shad- ows. These are usually described thus, the under-exposed as too intense, the over-exposed not intense enough ; between these limits are numerous grades of negatives which produce positives more or less agreeable in proportion to their de- grees of intensity. There is another mode of development, described farther on, which gives negatives quite different in appearance from those 5 ° HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. produced by the oxalate of iron development. It is known as the alkaline development. The Alkaline Development. The alkaline development is composed primarily of pyro- gallic acid, liquid ammonia and a soluble bromide. In this case the pyrogallic acid and ammonia form the developer and the bromide acts as a restrainer or moderator of the develop- ment. Proceed as follows : make a solution of pyrogallic acid, one and a half grains to the ounce of water (No. i), and a solution of half an ounce of liquid ammonia, sixty grains of bromide of potassium and five ounces of water (No. 2). To develope a 5 x 8 plate, pour out three fluid ounces of No. 1 and add to it fifteen drops of No. 2, and stir well together with a glass rod. As this mixture decomposes rapidly, it should be poured upon the plate as soon as possible after mixing. With this developer, as with the ferrous oxalate, the development should proceed gradually ; if it progresses too rapidly the developer must be poured off, a drop or two of plain bromide solution added and again applied to the plate. In case the development proceeds too slowly, a little of the ammonia should be added. On this account it will be necessary to have at hand while developing a bottle contain- ing a solution of bromide of potassium, twelve grains to the ounce of water, and one containing a mixture of water one ounce to two drams of liquid ammonia, by using which in turn the development may be either retarded or accelerated. Care must be taken not to use too much ammonia, as there Edwards’ alkaline developer. 5i is danger with it of fogging the plate. The same rule as to the extent of the development must be observed as in the case of using the ferrous oxalate. All bottles containing am- monia should be kept tightly corked. As a solution of pyrogallic acid in water does not keep long, we append a formula by means of which this difficulty may be overcome. Edwards 9 Alkaline Developer . Make two stock solutions and label them No. 1 and No. 2. No. 1. Pyrogallic acid, . 1 ounce. Methylated alcohol, 6 ounces. Glycerine, 1 ounce. Mix the glycerine and spirit, and add to the pyro — No. 2. Bromide of potassium, 60 grains. Water (rain or distilled), 6 ounces. Strong ammonia (880), 1 ounce. Glycerine, 1 ounce. The above will keep good, if well corked, for months. To make the developer, add one part of No. 1 to fifteen parts of ordinary water, and label this bottle D (Developer) ; in another bottle mix one part of No. 2 with fifteen parts of water, and label A (Accelerator). It will be found convenient, to avoid mistakes in the imperfect light of the dark room, to 52 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. have these two bottles of different shapes. Either of the above solutions will keep two or three days, but they are best mixed fresh every day. When required to develope a plate, pour into a clean glass measure equal quantities of D and A, (say) for a half-plate one ounce of each, adding the A last, just be- fore using ; place the proposed plate face upward in a shallow dish or tray, and pour the mixture steadily over the plate, avoiding air-bubbles ; should any adhere to the surface of the plate, at once remove them with the finger or a camel’s-hair brush kept for the purpose ; rock the dish gently, taking care to keep the plate we 14 covered with the solution ; in a few seconds the image will appear, and, if the exposure has been well timed, all the details will be out and the development complete in about one minute, when the negative should be well washed under the tap, and placed at once in the fixing bath. Do not hurry the development, but allow the plate to remain in the solution (after all the details are visible) until the required density is obtained. With these plates and the above developer there is no danger of fog except from light or over-exposure. Equal parts of A and D give the best result with a rapid ex- posure, but any slight error of over-exposure may be rectified in the following manner : If on application of the mixed developer the image flashes out and the details in the shadows appear too quickly, it is an indication that the plate has been over-exposed ; therefore at once throw off the mixed developer, and, without stopping to wash the plate, flood it with D alone, when the development will be checked, and will proceed more slowly, while the image gains in density. If too slowly, or the Edwards' alkaline developer. 53 negative appears to be getting too intense, add a small quantity of A (there will, however, usually be sufficient of the latter left in the plate, with the simple addition of a sufficient quantity of D) to complete development. A very little experience will enable the operator to produce a good printing negative from a plate which, if' developed with the full proportion of A, would have been utterly useless from over-exposure. In very warm, bright weather it will perhaps be found an advantage with gelatino-bromide sensitive plates to use one part of A to two parts of D, giving just sufficient exposure to avoid hardness in the negative. On the other hand, if on applying the mixed developer to the exposed plate the image appears very slowly, showing only the high lights with but little detail in the shadows, the plate has evidently been under-exposed, and more A must be added at once. This may be done by pouring the A di- rect into one corner of the developing tray, and rapidly mix- ing it with the other solution. Care must be taken not to add too much A, or push this second develc pment to a far, or the negative will be fogged in the shadows, owing to the general reduction of the silver throughout the film. If the plate be not too much under-exposed, the above treatment will be all that is required ; a very much under-exposed plate will never yield a good printing # negative ; it is better to try again. With fairly timed exposure, and the above method of development, each plate may be depended upon to give a good printing negative, requiring no intensifying. 54 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. Anthony’s Alkaline Solution for Eyrogal- lic Development . No. i. Make a solution of pyrogallic acid from one and a half to two grains per ounce of water, and to this add one grain of citric acid for every ten grains of the pyrogallic acid. To develope, take of No. i the proper quantity to well cov- er the plate, (say) for an 8 x 5 three ounces will be sufficient ; to this add half a dram of No. 2. (No. 2 is Anthony’s ready- prepared alkaline solution.) Mix well and pour over the plate. If the picture does not appear readily, add carefully some more of No. 2 (about half a dram) ; when the nega- tive begins to appear allow the development to proceed with- out adding any more of No. 2, unless absolutely necessary. This development may be varied by using different propor- tions of the alkaline and pyrogallic solutions. The alkaline stock solution should be kept well corked. It can be ob- tained in quart, pint or half-pint bottles. A Complete Remedy for Over-Exposure . The subject of citrates in the developer as a complete rem- edy for over-exposure has engrossed the attention of many eminent persons. We therefore take this opportunity of quoting the following article, by Mr. G. Watmough Web- ster, F. C. S., from the British Journal Almanac for 1 883 : Everybody knows the general method of procedure when, after the application of the usual developer, the image, in- A COMPLETE REMEDY FOR OVER-EXPOSURE. 55 stead of making its appearance by degrees, shows a great amount of detail almost at the moment the brightest point comes out, and the practiced hand is aware of considerable exposure having been given. The plate is instantly rinsed, fresh developer with an excessive proportion of bromide and diminished ammonia is used, and the quantity of pyro. perhaps almost doubled. If the exposure have been fifty or a hundred per cent, in excess of what experience tells us is the correct one with the class of plate under employment the result may be passable ; it will, after a great deal of time and trouble and an extra supply of chemicals have been spent over it, more probably be worthless. My experience was that when there was any chance of making a fresh exposure a thoroughly over-exposed plate had better be placed in the sink at once than have one minute of time spent over it, when once the fact of such over-exposure was ascertained. Nowadays, however, my views are changed. While still holding the opinion that for the production of perfect negatives there is one exposure right and that all others are wrong, I do believe that by the use of an alkaline citrate the effects of over-exposure may be so minimized that results of an extremely satisfactory nature can be obtained, and that in cases where no amount of treatment with bromide would have given even a passable negative. This method will allow (with over-exposure so great as fo be beyond the range of probability with an ordinarily practiced photogra- pher) a negative to be obtained that would show little or no signs of over-exposure in the print from it, and little inferi- 56 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. ority over one properly exposed. I need not say that, for a restraining agent to be of any great value, its application must be practically instantaneous upon a negative that has been started to develope in the usual manner ; hence, where over-exposure is feared, a mere tentative mode of develop- ment than would ordinarily be employed should be practiced. For the development of a number of plates, where some doubt as to exposure may exist, but where extreme over-ex- posure it is felt will not have occurred, it will suffice to have the restrainer at hand ready to mix with the solution which covers the plate. Further development will then be prevent- ed, and the usual means of procuring intensity may be re- sorted. to. The solution I employ is made as follows — it is simple enough — Citrate of soda, . i ounce. | Water, ... 4 ounces. For a half-plate my developing solution usually contains six minims of ammonia (I proportion the citrate to the ammo- nia), and about two drams of the above solution will be suf- ficient to counteract the effect of double or treble the correct exposure. Perhaps the most important use of the citrate will occur when a whole series of plates are over-exposed, or when a test plate shows extreme miscalculation in that direction. If the citrate solution be added to the developer before putting the plate in the full effect will be obtained ; and I am speak- ing within the mark in saying an almost perfect result may be obtained when four or five times the correct time has been given. INTENSIFYING SOLUTIONS. 57 When over-timing makes itself visible unexpectedly, and it is feared that the development will have proceeded too far be- fore the retarder can act — for it is well known that a plate goes on developing for some time after even the strongest current of water is turned upon it — an excellent plan is to throw over the surface a solution of citric acid, containing also a little chrome alum, the acid having the double effect of destroying the alkalinity and, consequently, the develop- ing power of the developer, and of introducing into the film a small portion of the citrate of ammonia. For a minor ex- tent of over-exposure the proportion of citrate above described will naturally be reduced. Citrate of ammonia possesses a retarding power still great- er than the soda citrate, and it is capable of counteracting a seven or eight times too great exposure. Citrate of potash I tried at first ; but, without actually condemning it as inferior to the citrate of soda, I must state that its action pleased me less. In conclusion : I should wish to say that, if any one will give this method of counteracting the effect of over-exposure by the use of a soluble citrate a trial, he will never be with- out a supply of the salt at hand in his developing room. Intensifying Solutions for Gelatine Xeg- atives . 20 grains. 20 ( C Mercuric chloride. Ammonium “ Water. i ounce. 5 « HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. Wash the negative thoroughly afcer fixing and apply the above until the film acquires a uniformly gray tint. Wash again and apply a very weak solution of ammonia, ten drops of the latter to one ounce* of water ; then wash again. Or the following : No. i. Water, i ounce. Persulphate of uranium, io grains. No. 2. Water, i ounce. Red prussiate of potash, io grains. When the above solutions are dissolved, mix equal portions of No. i and 2 and flow on and off the negative until the de- sired density is obtained ; then wash well. This gives a brownish-red color. Roche’s Intensifier. Water, 10 ounces. Sulphate of copper, 100 grains. Bromide of potassium, 100 “ When dissolved, this solution is ready for application, and can be used repeatedly. The negative, after fixing and wash- ing, is immersed in this solution until it bleaches or turns white. Now remove and wash slightly, then immerse the plate in the ferrous oxalate developer, and allow it to remain until it REPRODUCED NEGATIVES. 59 is black entirely through the film. This mode gives fine re- sults and a good printing color. Practical Notes . Wash very thoroughly after development and fixing. The hypo, must not be used too often, as it becomes discolored and will stain the clear parts of the negative. Weak and thin images are usually caused by excessive over- exposure and by removing the plate from the solution before the development is complete. An excess of the alkaline so- lution in the pyro. developer also tends to give negatives wanting in contrast. After fixing a negative, wash the hypo, from your fingers before handling another plate. Retouching and Varnishing the Negative . Retouching may be done upon the dried and warmed film before varnishing, or the pencil may be used on the varnish in the usual way. A good, tough varnish should always be used, great care being taken that the negative is thoroughly dry throughout the whole thickness of the film before the ap- plication of the varnish, and that the latter flows well up to the edges of the plate. Reproduced Negatives and Transparencies May readily be produced by means of dry plates in the fol- lowing manner : Place the negative to be copied with the film side in contact with a sensitive dry plate in the dark 6o HONV TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. slide of the camera, draw out the latter to its fullest extent, and expose the negative and plate for a few seconds to the light reflected through the lens from a sheet of white paper, placed at an angle a short distance (but not in focus) in fiont of the objective ; in this manner the exposure can be perfectly controlled and correctly timed. It is advisable to use a small stop in the lens in order to obtain perfect definition, in case of a want of absolute contact between the surfaces of the neg- ative and the sensitive plate. In this manner positives suita- ble for enlargement may be made with great facility ; to re- produce negatives of the same size as the original, it is simply necessary to repeat the foregoing operation, using the posi- tive as a cliche. In the case of valuable negatives, it is recom- mended that a good positive be invariably taken and kept in stock, for fear of injury to the original negative ; or you can put a plate in contact with the negative in the printing- frame, and expose to gaslight at a distance of six or twelve inches for five or ten seconds. Use bromide in the developer — the iron developer gives the best tone. Sometimes the plate , when developed with ferrous-oxalate , be- comes covered with a yellow deposit. — This defect occurs when too large a proportion of the protosulphate solution is used with the oxalate solution. This is very likely to occur when the solution of oxalate of potash is not thoroughly saturated. In winter, the temperature of this solution should never be less than fifty degrees Fahr. FRILLING, 6 1 Stained Films Are often caused by imperfect fixing, or by not sufficiently washing the plate after developing and before fixing, or by exposure to air and light before thoroughly washing, after re- moving the plate from the fixing bath. The plate should be fixed in the dark room, previous to exposure to actinic light. Fogged Negatives Are the result of excessive over-exposure, or the plates hav- ing been exposed in some way to the action of light, either by the use of too much light in the dark room, or by leakage of light in the camera or dark slides. A peculiar kind of fog, yellowness or stain in the shadows, is sometimes caused by the use of too much ammonia, or an insufficient quantity of bromide in the developer. Frilling . By this term is meant the action which occurs in the de- velopment of all plates (except the Tropical) when the wa- ter or temperature is too warm, and is shown by the wrink- ling of the gelatine film all around the borders of the plate. This can be prevented by using Anthony’s Anti-frill, as di- rected by the label on the bottle, or it can be partially pre- vented by immersing for a few minutes in the alum bath be- fore fixing : Alum, ... i ounce. | Water, . . 16 ounces. 62 HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. Care should be taken to keep the finished negatives in a thoroughly dry place ; with this precaution they may be de- pended upon as absolutely permanent. Clearing Solution for Stained Gela- tine Negatives . Alum, 2 ounces. Citric acid, i ounce. Water, io ounces. After fixing and washing, immerse the negative from three to five minutes in this solution. On removal wash well. To remove the last trace of hypo, from the film, immerse a few minutes in the following solution and agam wash : Water, 16 ounces. Saturated solution of acetate of lead, . . io drops. Varnishing. Ordinarily with gelatino-bromide dry plates, unless a great many proofs are required, varnishing is unnecessary; but, it it is desired, warm the plate slightly, and (after it has become perfectly dry) hold it in the left hand by one corner between the thumb and forefinger, and pour the varnish on the right- hand upper part of the plate so that it spreads to the edge ot the glass in that comer. Tilt it slightly, so that the varnish will flow to the left-hand upper corner ; then bring it down close to the thumb, thence to the right-hand lower corner, CHEMICALS. 63 and drain it into the bottle, rocking it edgewise to and fro while doing so. This motion prevents its drying in streaks or ridges. Set it away to dry where no dust will fall on it. Chemicals. The quality of the articles used is a most important item. Purchase only those prepared expressly for the purpose, and as they are inexpensive, be sure and have a full supply of everything. Sufficient quantities for many plates can be car- ried in a small space, with the graduates and funnels neces- sary for mixing. CHAPTER V. Paper Positives • FTER having made the negative, the next step is to pro- duce the positive, or print on paper, which now more clearly reveals to the novice the hidden beauties of his negative. These are obtained by exposing to the light a piece of sensi- tized paper, pressed closely against the film of the negative, allowing no light other than that passing through the nega- tive to act upon the paper. This action in photography is called printing, and the resulting picture a positive. As the negative reverses everything, the positive on the contrary restores the subject to its natural position. The paper used is generally one that has been coated with albumen, as this gives a smooth surface, and reproduces the finest lines in the negative. Paper, when used without such coating, gives a coarser, less pleasing result. Before prints can be made on albumenized paper it must be sensitized with the salts of silver; but as this article is supplied all ready for use, we will not go into the details of its preparation. We advise, therefore, the amateur to leave it for future experiment. PRINTING-FRAME. 65 The sensitized albumen paper is, of course, sensitive to the action of light, i. 1 Bank Street, CLEVELAND, O. W. D. GATCHEL & CO., ‘TVafezd iiA. ^MATEUI^ jOuTFITS ^ND 4 PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIALS §o OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 327 West Jefferson St., LOUISVILLE, KY. PHILIP PRADO, DEALER IN ALL DRY PLATE MATERIALS CONSTANTLY ON HAND. Amateur Outfits of every Description. Special attention given to Amateur Supplies. 214 W. Baltimore St., BALTIMORE, MD. For Dry Plate Developing. THE GLASS BOTTOM TRAY. It is a real good thing and just what we all want. It has. Wood Walls with Chemical Proof Lining — has a Glass Bot- tom and Trough, by which you are enabled to Look Through your Neg- ative without taking it from the Tray — simply raise the end of Tray opposite — the Develoyer runs into the Trough and you look through the negative and bottom of Tray. An improvement has lately been made that prevents the plate from adhering to the Tray bottom. prices: each. 5 x 6 i For 3^ x 4^, 4x5 and 4^ x 5^ PLATES, $1 25 Sf x 8f “ 4i x 6|, 5 x 7 and 5x8 “ 1 50 8f x iof “ 6£ x 8£ and 8 x 10 “ 1 75 12 x 15 “ 10 x 12 and 11 x 14 “ 3 50 15 x 18 “ 14 x 17 “4 00 MANUFACTURED AND FOR SAhE BY HIRAM J. THOMPSON, DEALER IN Dry Plate Goods and Photographic Supplies. 84 WABASH AVE, CHICAGO. ESTABLISHED IN 1850. ^olVi . &C. l Dci t’l: Photographic Stock Depot, 618 & 620 Clay St, «SAN FRANCISCO, CAL, AMERICAN OPTICAL CO'S CAMERAS AND APPARATUS. Mmmm iiiim ALL BRANDS. Everything; Requisite for the Jfhotographer and Jimatenr. PRICE-LISTS FREE. & S. ) I < . & Co., MANUFACTURERS OF AMATEUR Photographic Equipments. jjSc'it Assortment TufitcA, and most $ rue tied of ;uw in Market. SOLE AGENTS FOR DALLMEYER’S CELEBRATED LENSES. The ONLY 0NE8 indorsed by ALL the Best PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS. MANUFACTURERS OF THE 3$. §L jStkqdkfd CLen}idkl$. All our Photographic Preparations are Universally recognized as The Best of their kind to be had . Copy of How To Take Photographs, A Manual for Amateurs. Heavy toned paper, in paper cover 50 cents; cloth, 75 cents. Send for Circular. ANTHONY'S RAPID PRINTINR PAPER.