* H e alth’s Improvement: o R, RULE’S- ' Comprizing and Difcavering the Nature, Method and Manner Of PREPARING all forts of FOODS Ufed in this Nation. » Written by that ever Famous T H O M'A S M O F F E T, Doftor in Phyfick. »— ■ • ■ -- Corre<9;ed and Enlarged by Christopher B e n n e t, Do a S (his x The LIFE of thisKingdom. A.JVood , in hisfhort and imperfect Account of him, conceives that his Birth-place was in, or near the Parifh of St. Leonard Sbore- ditchy in the City of London ; becaufe fome of (hat Name, fuppofed to have been his Relations, lived, and one, named John Muffet , died there. Anno 1596 d . It was a Parifli then much inha¬ bited by Perfons of good Fafhion, as may be feen by their Epitaphs, and Benefadtions; and Sboreditcb-Place had been formerly the King’s Manour e . If the Doctor was born there, that John might be a Relation, for he had two or three Brothers; and he mentions himfelf, the eldeft of them ; who feems to have been feated at Aldbam-hall in Ejjex , as we gather from what the Dodtor occafionally obferves, in his Chapter of Oyjiers ; where he defcribes one, brought to the Table, at the Celebration of his faid Brother’s Marriage there, which had Shells a Foot long, and was cut into eight Morfels, to be eaten f ; •o, was a greater Rarity than what Pliny has re¬ corded as fuch. The Dodtor alfo fpeaks of his Mother in another Part of this Book ; as if (he died of a Surfeit {he had taken, in eating fome Pigs Flefh That he was in his younger Days retained, or acquainted in the noble Family of Somerfet , feems to be intimated in another of his Books; where having defcribed the Difference of thofe Bees which are old, from the young ones, he adds, a Atbcr.. Oxen. Fol. Edit. Lend. 1721. Vo!. I. Col. 248. t y. Stoiv's Survey of London. Edit. fol. 1633. p. 474. t Dr. Moffct 's Health’s Improvement, or Rules of Food, i2mo. p. 252. g 1 dm, p. 146. “ And Dr. M O F F E T. xi ‘Ibeatr, Jafecl, Fol, 283.. xiv The LIFE oj fee it, or at leaft be of that Univerfity before. To the Knowledge and Learning he acquir’d by his Studies, he added the Improvements that were to be gather’d from Converfation with learned and knowing Men ; fuch as Dr. Caius the Foun¬ der, whofe Learning he reverenced q , and whofe I rowardnefs in his laft Sicknefs he rationally ac¬ counts for r . Dr. William Turner the Divine, a learned Pbyficianand famous Botanift,who died in 1568, the fame Year that the whole three Parts of his Herbal were printed at Cologn in Folio ; wherein we find that he alfo wrote a Natural Hi/lory of Fifties, which never appear’d, that we can learn, in Print. Therein was probably pre- ferv’d the Receipt that would have taught us how to prepare Sprats, as our Author fays he had feen of his doing, that furpafled Anchovas % Dr. Mof¬ fo alfo celebrates him for having a Son excellent in the h acuity ; calling him the happy Father cf one Peter , who was born to give Phyfic to Phy- fic itfelf'. We might further mention among the learned Acquaintance he had of his Profefiion, L r - Timothy Bright, Dr. William Brewer , and Dr. Thomas Penny , all learned and curious Na- turalifts; in the latter of whom he inftances the ill ccnfequences of abftaining from Salt 11 ; and fays, that he once cured him, when he lay fick of an Afthma, and had long taken Hog-lice in Wine to no Effect, with fmoaking of Brimjlone twice or thrice through a Pipe x . Many other q Health's Improvement, p. 283. r Ibid. p. 210. s Idem, p. 261. t 'Theatrurn Inf eft. fol. 192. u Health' 1 Improvement , p. 347. X Theatr. Jnfecl. fol. 204. learned Dr. M O F F E T. xv learned Perfons he mentions of his Acquaintance, in like manner occafionally, or on the account of fome remarkable Circumftance, belides feveral others of noble and honourable Diftin&ion * fuch as his chief Patron, the gallant Peregrine- Lord Willoughby,Robert Earl of Effex , and Henry Earl of Pembroke ; alfo Sir Francis JValJingham , whom he vifited often at Barn-elms, and attended in his laft Iilnefs ; belides the renown’d Sir Francis Drake , whofhewed him the firft Flying Fijh that was brought into England y ; alfo the valiant and ingenious Sir William Pelham , who gained great Fame by his Sword, and might have done with his Pen, had he affedfed that Honour, by pub- lifhing his Compofitions; of which we have feen fome polite Examples* and there was alfo a Pic¬ ture to be feen of him fome Years lince at Sir 'John Palmer s at Wingham, The Acquaintance of two learned and ingenious Knights of Norfolk , Sir Thomas and Sir Edmund Knevit he gratefully commemorates, in his Book of lnfefts 7 -, and their Communication of feveral curious Particulars to illuftrate the fame. From all whom he gain’d, as Men of great Genius, refin’d Morals, and libe¬ ral Accomplilhments afpire to do, the Character his high Merits deferv’d, and the Happinefs of being “ efieem’d a famous Ornament of the Body “ of Phyficians, and the true Pattern of all po- “ life and folid Literature. 1 ” But ftill being ambitious of enlarging the Circle of his Obferva- tion and Experience, he travel’d into divers Coun¬ tries of Europe , over many Parts of Holland,Ger- y Health's Improvement, p. 245. z Theatr. Infefi. fol. 57, Sc 197. a Athen. Oxon. ut fupra. many^ xvi The LIFE c/ many, Switzerland, Denmark, lbme Paris of France, and, as he informs us himfelf,aIfo of Italy j where he became known to many eminent Aden, Phyficians, Chymifts, and Matters of various other Sciences; among whom Joachim Camera- rius, he mentions in particular; he calls him his dear and learned Friend b ; and fays, that he de- fcrib’d feveral Infers to Dr. Penny out of the Duke of Saxony’s Mujaum of Natural Curiofities c . As to theTime precifely that he firft fet out upon his Travels, w r e have not diredlly met with* it, but by the Remarks he made upon the Cameleon in 1571, and its catching of Flies fo expertly with its long glutinous Tongue, he fnould feem to have been then abroad, and in feme Country which is lefs a Stranger to that Animal than oursA He is thought, by Ant. Wood , to have been doc- torated in Phyfick in fome noted Univerttty in his Travels 6 ; and he does himfelf fpeak of his ttudying in the Academy at Bafil, in the Year 1579, under the famous Faelix PUterus, Prefi- dent of the Phyficians there, and Zuingerus He alfo informs us of his accompanying his noble Patron the Lord TVilloughby of Eresby aforefaid, when he carried over the Order of the Garter from Queen Elizabeth to Frederick King of Denmark ; and that he fat feven or eight Hours at Dinner with his Majefty s ; and this was, as we may read in the Hiftory of that Queen’s b Health's Improvement, p, m, c 1 Theatr. Ir.fe£l. fol. 152, d Thejtr. In fed. fo], 72. e At ben. Oxon. nbi fupra. f ‘ Theatr. Infect, fo!. 297. S Health's improvement , p. 396, Reign, Dr. M O F F E T. xvii Reign, in the Year 1582 h . He there became acquainted with feveral renowned Scholars; as Tycho Brahe the noble Aftronomer, and Peter Severinus that King's principal Phyfician; who having had fome Controversy with certain Anti- paraceljians , and Enemies to the new Improve¬ ments in Phyfick by Chymical Preparations, ap¬ pear’d in Print upon that Occafion; and finding Dr. Mcjfct had Experience and Judgment to re- lifli and advance the faid Improvements, he in¬ duced him alfo to become an Advocate in the fame Caufe ; fo when he returned to London , lie "wrote in Latin an ApolcgeticalDialogue , in which he maintains the Ufa and Excellency of Chymi¬ cal Medicines with great Add refs. He alfo wrote elegantly, in the fame Language, Five Medici¬ nal Epi files, to tw\) Phyficians of his Acquain¬ tance. in the fir ft whereof, directed to Phi/a - lelhes , a German Chymift, he endeavours to clear Paracel/us from certain Imputations which had been objected to him, and fome of them I think by Thomas Eraflus\ as that he was obfcure in his W ritings; a Proteus in his Opinions, and inconfiftent with himfelf; ignorant of Method in h s Compofitions, and underftood only the German Tongue; was unacquainted with Lo- gick, Phyficks, Aftrology, and Geometry : I hat he was a Magician, held Correfpondence with Demons; was given to Drunkennefs, and keeping of vulgar Company. To all which the Doftor has made very handfome Reply. In the three following Epiftles addrefs’d to the fame Perfon, he gives many Reafons why the modern Phyficians are rather to be follow’d than h Camden's Annals of E/ixjtetb, the xviii • The LIFE of the Antients ; and (hews what Advantages, in , their Profe/fion, the Light of Art gives to that of Nature, in their Co-operation. In his laft Epiftle, which is diretfted, Endymloni Luddipc- lenji , Cham ft a ; hefhews, how expedient it is for a Phyficietn to be a Traveller , notwithstand¬ ing thofe Vices which may fometimes afiault him in his Travels; here produced, as writ¬ ten by his Correfpondent, againft this hazardous Means to a more enlarged Experience and Im¬ provement in the Science. Thefe Letters were written, one of them in 1582, if the Date in the Edition before us be right, and the reft in 1583 and 1584. They were, together with the Apologetical Dialogue aforefaid, printed abroad in the Year laft mentioned, as fome Authors write *, and they have, prefixed to them.our Doftor’s De¬ dication to the King of Denmark's Phyfician above-named. In Augujl 1586, he and Dr. Penny attended upon the Dutchefs of Somerfet , then dangeroufly fick at her Seat at Hanwortb ; as he has informed us, where he is difeourfing of the Bees before fpoken of; and adds, that while they were fitting up and watching that Lady with her i The Dialogue is entitled, De jure £Lf praeflantia Cbemicorum Medicamentorum, Dialogus Apologeticus. Extat. at>ud Francofordia , Anno Domini i 584, are the Wor s of John Pits , De illu/i. Ar.gl. Script. 4to. Paris 1619. p.916. -So alfo A. JVood \ who adds, that it was publish'd likewite in 8vo, Urfell. 1602. and in the firft Volume of Lheatrum Cbcmicum, Argent. 1623. 8vo. That Collection of Chemical Writers was publifh’d fir ft in 1602, as above, in three Volumes, by Laxarus Letxnerus. The laft Edition, we have feen, is in fix Volumes oSiavo, punted by the Heirs of that Laxarus , who was a Bookft ller, at Strasburgb 1659. Dr. Mof- fet's Dialogue is printed in the firft Volume, p. 64. beginning at the Dedication; and it is follow’d with his Letters, entitled, Epijlala quinyue Medicinalts , p, 89. which end at p. 108, two XIX Dr. M O F F E T. two noble Daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, they heard, after a Clap of Thunder, amort: amazing Noife between the Joifts and Cieling under them, which made the very Floor tremble; and it proved to proceed from that Swarm of Bees, affrighted by the faid Thunder, which had remained there thirty Years, and every Year yielded two or three Swarms, as they after¬ wards underftood from many credible Wit- neffes: F'rom w-hence he concludes thofe Infedfs are much alarm’d with any great Noife or Light in the Night-time, and are moft impatient of Difturbance in their Reft ic . Two Years after, there was another Latin Book of his publifhed abroad;tho’the Author himfelf feems to have been then in England ; containing the Progno/licks of Hippocrates , or Symptoms of the Difeafes that are difperfed in his Works, reduced into Order * 1 . In the Month of July^ Anno 1591, the King of France having refolved to take Roan and Neuu- haven before the Duke of Parma could arrive there to oppofe him, obtained of Queen Eliza* beth a Supply of 4000 Men, under the Command of the Earl of Ejfex , for his better Affiftance againrt the Confederates of the League m . Dr. Moffet attended upon the Earl in this Expedition 11 , either as Phyrtcian to him or the Army. He pro¬ bably bore him alfo Company in his difficult and dangerous Journey to Noyon , where the French King then was, and had Cent for the Earl to con¬ ic Theatr. Infect, fol. 14, 21 . 1 This Work of our Author, is entitled, Nofemantica Ilippocra- tea, Jive Hippocratis Prognojlica cunbia, ex omnibus ipfius fcnptis met bodice digefla, Sec. Franc. 8voi;88. m Camden's Annals of Q_^ Elizabeth, Anr.o 1591. n Health's Improvement, p. 139. fult XX The LIFE of fult with him about the Management of the War. While the Dodlor lay in the Englijh Camp at Arques , Death made a Conqueft, which he could not prevent. For TValter Devereux the Earl’s Brother, a gallant young Gentleman, advancing from the Army too near unto Roan , to reco- noitre the Enemy, was there fhot with a Muf- quet-Ball, and loll his Life for his Curiofity. But there might be Occalion enough foon after for the Dodlor to exercife his bell Skill to pre¬ serve fome Englijh Lives in this Enterprize ; for in the beginning of November the fame Year, when the Duke of Parma was upon his March, the King of France did at lall, but very back- wardly, and not without great Inftigation from the Queen of England , begin to beliege Roan , and fent Ejfex into England for more Supplies; who returning fome few Days after, upon Chrijl - mas- Eve, he attack’d the Fort of St. Katharine on four Sides at once; but in three of them ex- pofed the Englijh to great Slaughter. The Suc¬ cours requir’d at the Englijh Court, were not denied; but the Queen could not forbear reproving the King’s unadvifed Delays in the Siege, andfub- je&ing her Army alone to the greateft of the Dan¬ ger °. After the Dodlcrbs Return from Not • rnandy , we cannot very dillinclly declare where he was fettled in England. We may gather that he was fome time an Inhabitant at Ipfvuich , and that he had with him a Family ; for he mentions his Maid-fervants there in this Work ?. There are many other obfervable Pallages in this and his other Writings which flievv that he employ’d his o Annal, E!!z. ubi jvpra» ; p Health's Improvement } p. 247. Pea r Dr. M O F F E T; xxi Pen pretty conftantly in preferving them to the latter End of the Queen’s Reign ; as where he fpeaks of the Lady P enrudduck , who for ten Years together was prey’d upon by fome of the fmalieft of Infefts, called Wheal-Worms ; occa¬ sioned by drinking too much Goats Milk to cure aConfumption ; againft which Worms fhe could get no Remedy ; and her Death, when our Author wrote thereof, he fays was frefli in their Memories who belt knew and lov’d her “J. Another Obfervation of his within the faid Period of Time, feems to be that whereby he confirmed an AfTertion which Platerus had for¬ merly made to him, that he had found a live Toad in the midft of a hard Stone; which, the Do&or fays, he fhould have thought incredible, had he net known the fame to have happen’d in a Quarry belonging to TV. Cave> Efq; an honour¬ able Gentleman in LeiceJlerjJnre'\ the fame Per- fon, as we take it, who was high Sheriff of that County, Anno 37th Eliz. as appears elfewhere s . And not long before this we are as direftly afi. fured, that from another Quarry of free Stone at Har le/lone, a Mile from Holdenly in North amp - tonjhlre , which was dug for the building of Sir Chri/lopher Hatton's Houfe, there was a Block taken up, a Yard and a half fquare, which being cloven afunder, there was found in the midft of it, a great Toad alive, which foon died when it was brought into the Air. The Author who re¬ lates this parallel Story, fays, there were five hundred People who faw it, and moft of them 12, 1 neat. Inf. fol. 248. e T, Fuller's Worthies, in Leicejl, living xxii The LIFE of firing when he wrote of it f . The Expedition of Mr. Thomas Cavendifh and Sir Robert Dudley to the JVeJl-bidies , feems alfo to have been a re¬ cent Circumftance when he wrote of it, to iliu- ftrate his Account of the Glow-Worm j for the Night they landed, they faw in the adjacent Woods, an infinite Number of moving Lights; which, miftaking for the Spaniards coming upon them unawares, with their Firelocks and Match- lights, they fled in hafte to their Ships; tho’ it feems what they faw, were no more than thofe harmlefs Infedfs which are called Lanthorn Flies u . But the Notice our Author takes of Richard, the Uncle of that Mr. Cavendijh the famous Navi¬ gator, and how he was perfectly cured of the Gout, might diretffly point out the Time he was writing that part of his Work, if a little En¬ quiry was to be made; for he obferves upon that Cure, “ That now, to the great Wonder of all “ the Court, he walks alone, without any Help j 44 and being found, and void of all Pain, he lives 44 an old Man*.” The Time of his compofing another part of the faid Work might alfo be fettled, from what he fays upon the Locujls j when the Spaniards were fo forely affli£fed with the Swarms of them that flew over from Africa ; the Tidings whereof arrived at the Time, fays he, that we are writing of them'". Some further Light in the Chronology of his Compofitions may be drawn from his pleafant Allufion to Sir f ohnHarrington’s Metamorphofis of A-jax z , which t E. Hop fell's Hiftory of four-footed Beafts and Serpents. Fol. 1658. p. 817. u 7 beat. Inf. fol. 112. See alfo Hakluyt 's Voyages, vol. 3. r. 'Ibeat. Inf. fol. 324. y Ibid. fol. 123. z Health't lmprov. p. 81. 2 was Dr. M O F F E T. xxiii was printed in 1596. We mention’d fomething before of his Family at Ipfwich ; but now, in the latter part of his Life, he was fettled at or near Wilton , where he buried his firft Wife, on the 18th of April i6oo z ; and fhe feems to have left one Daughter behind her. Tho’ he furvived this Wife but a few Years, he married, a Year or two after fhe died, another, who was a Widow, had Children, and furvived him, as will hereafter appear. His noble Patron, the Lord Willoughby, he mentions often, and never without fome grate¬ ful Epithet of Praife ; as upon the Occafion of his prefenting his Lcrdfhip with an extraordinary large Pike-fijh that was a Yard and a half long, he juftly calls him a Mirror of Chevalry in one Place a , and his mojl honourable good Lord in another b ; where he informs us what gave him Relief in his moft dangerous Confumption. If that was his Lordfhip’s laft Illnefs, we may trace our Auther writing in the Book where it is men¬ tion’d, to near the End of Queen Elizabeth's Reign : The faid Lord dying in 1601°. Thus having extracted feveral of thofe Inci¬ dents from his Writings, which would beft guide us in the Progrefs of his perfonal Hiftory, it now remains to add what we have more to fay of thefe Writing themfelves, and what we have been able to gather touching his latter End. In this Book of Foods, he refers to another of his compofing, unmention’d by all Authors who have fpoken of z Extract of the Church-Regijier at Wilton, communicated by an honourable Friend, Sir Peter Pbompfon, High Sheriff of Surrey. a Health's Impr. p. 247. b Ibid. 33a. See alfo the Earl of Leicejier's Character of this gallant Lord Willoughby, in the Britijh Librarian, 870,1738. p.272. c See Camden's Annals of Q . Elizabeth, in that Year. him, xxiv The LIFE cf him, which would have been very proper to have bore it Company. He entitles it his Treatife of Drinks d : It is much to be regretted that the Publick has been deprived of it ; for like every Thing elfe of his writing, we doubt not but Learning and Experience would have appeared therein, joined with Judgment and Eloquence; and that his Arguments would have been fup- ported by his Knowledge, and his Knowledge il- luftrated by Variety of Examples ancient and mo¬ dern. But this Treatife we fear is quite loft; and it is well that the reft, which he lived not to publifli himfelf, have met with Regard more equal to their Merits ; for befides that Dialogue r with thofe Letters , and the Book of Hippocrates before-mentioned, we have met with no more of his Writings publifh'd in his Lifetime, except, according to the Account of Ant. Wood , an im¬ perfect Edition that was printed abroad of his Book of Inf efts which,whether furreptitioufly, or by his Permiffion, we know not, having ne¬ ver feen it: But we have feen, in a fair Folio Volume, the Doctor's own Manufcript, of that learned and elaborate Work, which he defigned for the Prefs before the Queen’s Death ; for there is a Dedication at the beginning of it to her Ma- jefty; and there is prefixed to that, a Frcntif- piece engraved by William Rogers of London ; in which Sculpture there appears, in finall oval Frames, the Effigies of the four following Per- fons, Conradus Gcfncr at the Top, Dr . Edivard Wotton , and Dr. Thomas Penny , on each Side ; and our Author, Dr. Moffet himfelf, ftiled Scots- Anglusy d Health' t Impro-v. p. 221. * A. Wood fay?, that fome im- perfeft Copies cf this Book were publilhed by Lour, Scbofcius, Anno 1598, &c, XXV Dr. M O F F E T. Anglus, at the Bottom. His Dedication to Queen Elizabeth is fubfcrib’d with his Name as we here fpeil it. After the Queen was dead, her Name was crofs’d out, and King ^fames' s put in; and under the Name of the Author at the End, there was added Scoto- Anglus ; which Alterations are in a Hand different from the faid Dedication, and from that in which the Body of the Work itfelf is written ; but they might poffibly be made by the Dr. as well as the Marginal Additions through¬ out the whole Volume, which alfo are in a diffe¬ rent Hand from the T ext. For this, as well as the Dedication, feems to be a fair Tranfcript, made from what the Do&or had written, or dic¬ tated as his moft finifh’d and compleat Copy for the Prefs c ; through which, it was many Years before it made its Way to the Publick, as we (hall relate. After King yarnes came to the Crown, it feems that the Time and Expence re¬ quired in printing the Work, and reprefenting the Infefts in Sculpture, probably firft delign’d on C pper-plates, to anfwer the Title-page above- mention’d, delay’d the Publication, till Sicknefs and Death divided the Author from his Labours. He had, torfome time before he died, refided at Bulb ridge, near Wilton in Wiltjhire , as a Re¬ tainer to the Earl of Pembroke ; from whom he had a yearly Sailary allow’d him as long as he lived, moffly through the Favour of that Earl’s excellent Lady, Alary Countefs of Pembroke As the Earl was Lord Prefidentof Wales , he had e This curious Manufcript, adorn’d with Drawings of the In . Jilts, is preferved in the Library of Sir Hans Sloar.e, who very cour- teoufly obliged me with the Liberty of making thefe Obfcrvations upon it. f Aden, 0 *on, vol, I, col. 249, b much V xxvi The LIFE of much Occafion to vifit and refide upon the Her¬ ders of that Principality ; and that Dr. Mojfet attended upon him thither, appears plainly, where he is describing the Situation of Ludlozu-Cafle y and mentions himfelf as a Sojourner there, while he was writing this Book of Foods*. But he feems to have ended his Life at, or near Wilton „ He made his Will in the beginning of fune 1604, and as its Brevity will apologize for our not mak¬ ing any Abbreviation of it, wefhall prefent it to our Readers entire ; and it is as follows. “ |N the Name of Goo, Amen. Being af- “ fured of my Refurredfion to Life, through 5t the only Merits of my Saviour Jesus Christ, “ I commit my Body to the Earth, and my “ Soule into the Handes of Him that gave it. “ And now being in perfect Memorie, tho’ 44 weake in Bodie, I make this my Jaft Will 44 and Tenement, in Forme following. Firft 44 unto Si/fan, my Wife's eldeft Daughter, I * 4 give and bequeath my Paire of Virginals. And 45 unto Richards, her elded Son, all my other “ Inhruments of Mufique whatfoever. And 44 unto Martha, another of my Wife’s Daugh- “ ters, I give Three Pounds in Money. And 44 unto the Boy Thomas Pomery, I give Thirtie 44 Pounds of Money. Moreover unto Dodfori 44 Hall , Nephew unto my Wife, I give Ten 44 Pounds in Money; and alfo, all my wearing “ Apparel, excepting my Damaske Gowne, and 44 one other black Cloth Gowne, and my belt 44 black Cloake. All other myGoods and Chattels, ** my Debts and Legacies being paide, my Will g tfuhb's Jmfrcv, p. S7, Sc p. 152. I and Dr. M O F F E T. xxvh f£ and Pleafure is, that my Wife during her “ Widowhoode (hail have the Ufe of them all. “ And if fhe be hereafter marryed, then the “ whole do I give unto my Daughter Patience. “ Provided that if my Wife do not marrie be- “ fore my Daughter be eighteene yeares of Age j “ then when fhe is of the Age of eighteene, that “ fhe prefentlie have the one haulfe unto herfelf, the Ufe of the other haulfe remayning unto ‘‘ my-Wife, during her Widowhoode. And “ after, if (he marrie, or chaunce to dye,the fame “ haulfe to return likewife unto my Daughter. And if my Daughter chaunce to dye, before “ fire be eighteene Yeares old, then the haulfe that is in my Wife’s Handes remayning, to 4 * remayne likewife unto my Wife forever. Alfo “ I give unto my deare Frend and Father in ‘‘ Chrifte Mr. Parker , my befl Englijh Bible.- 46 The fecond of June ; figned and fealed with 4t mine owne Hande : By me Thomas Mojjet — * 4 Unto my Siller Thomas , I give thirtie Shil- l‘ n gs, to be put into a Ringe. My Over- 4 ‘ feers, I make my two Brethren, William , and i '‘ Peter j and give to each of them, in confide- IO INTRODUCTION. ken ; Part of it is taken in by the Mouths of the afcending Branches; but its greateft Part is directed downwards. The Blood conveyed by the Arteries, is carried to correfponding venous Canals, and fo again to the right Auricle of the Heart. It is obferv'd, that all animal Juices are form’d either of Vegetables, or other Animals, taken into the Stomach, and thence tranfmitted to the In- teftines, where, by the Power of the digeftive Organs, they are converted into a balfamic neu¬ tral Chyle, neither alcaline nor acid ; and this, fo prepared, is by the animal Adlions mixed with the Blood, in fuch a manner, that the whole to¬ gether forms one uniform Mafs, fit for Nutrition, and adapted to fupply all the Exigencies of the ani¬ mal Oe.onomy. But if the digefting and aflimi- lating Organs are weak, or the Aliments taken in Quantities difproportioned to their Strength, they are not converted, in the manner mentioned above, into a balfamic neutral Chyle, but putre¬ fying in the Stomach and Inteftines, acquire that fort of Acrimony, which they would produce upon Putrefadfion in any Place out of the Stomach, in an equal Degree of Heat and Moifture ; and in this Cafe cannot properly be faid to digeft in the Stomach, but rather to putrefy. Hence, as the Food is either of an alcaline or acefcent Nature, an alcaline or acid Acrimony prevails in the Juices formed from it. Thofe Aliments are call¬ ed alcalefcent, whofe Juices become alcaline upon Putrefadtion; thofe are called acefcent, whofe Juices upon the fame Occafion contract an Aci¬ dity. The Aliments,from which acid Juices are form¬ ed, are all thofe which are ufually call’d farinaceous. Such, 2 INTRODUCTION. ix Such, amongft many others, are, Wheat, Rye, Barley, Oats, Beans, Peafe, Millet, and Rice. If thefe are mixed with a fufficient Quantity of Moifture, they ferment and grow acid, in a De¬ gree of Heat not exceeding that of the Atmofphere in warm Weather; but when mixed with a little Moifture only, they do not fo eafily ferment, but form a kind of tenacious vifcid Subftance like Glue. Milk is to be number’d amongft acefcent Aliments; and all the Parts of Vegetables, which are natu¬ rally acid, or capable of being rendered fo by Fer¬ mentation, fupply the animal Juices with Acidities. Such are all the Fruits which are ufually termed Frufius Horai , as Apples, Pears, Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Cherries, Mulberries, Currants, Rafp- berries. Strawberries, Elderberries, Figs, Pome¬ granates, Cucumbers, Melons, Jujubs, and many others of this fort. Thefe, tho’ generally excellent Food, efpecial- ly to thofe who are accuftomed to a plentiful Diet of Flefh, yet become noxious, by reafon of their Acidity, when taken into the Body in Quantities too large for Digeftion and Aflimilation. Thefe Quantities cannot be exaCtly determined, for the digeftive Organs of the moft robuft may be over¬ loaded, but thefe are capable of digefting and affi- milating a much larger Quantity, than when the Fibres of which thefe Organs are compofed are relaxed and weak, and cannot aCt fufficiently upon thefe Aliments, but fuffer them to retain their natural or acquired Acidity in the Stomach and Inteftines. Thus we find Girls in a Chlorofis, ftudious, fedentary People, and Children, whofe Fibres are either through Infirmity, naturally, or for want of Motion and Exercife, relaxed, con- trad an Acidity of the Juices, by eating acid or A 6 acefcent i2 INTRODUCTION. acefcent Aliment ? As Exercife braces the animal Fibres, and promotes Digeftion; fo Reft, or a Deleft of Motion, relaxes the Fibres, and retards or hinders Digeftion and may therefore be rec¬ koned amongft the Caufes of an acid Acrimony in the Juices formed from acefcent Food. A Deficiency of good Blood in the Body, may alfo be numbered amongft the Caufes productive of an acid Acrimony from acefcent Aliment. For the Cbvle, formed from this fort of Food* w 11. like Mi’k, turn acid, unlefs mixed with a Quantity of good Blood fufficient for its perfeft Ailimilation. Hence the Rule of Horace , . Vacuis committere Vents Nil nift lene decet> maybe taken very juftly in a medicinal as well as culinary Senfe. The original Seat of this Acidity is in the Or¬ gans of the firft Digeftion. Thefe are the Sto¬ mach and fmall Inteftines ; but from thefe, by Degrees, it is propagated to the Receptacle of the Chyle, from hence to the Blood j and laftly, to all the Humors leparated from it. This acid Acrimony is produftive of many Ef- fefts, both troublefome and dangerous to the ani¬ mal Oeconomy, as Acid Eruftations, which have in fome Cafes been fo {harp as to induce a Stupor of the Teeth. A Sensation of Hunger, by contrafting the Fibres of the Stomach. But it mull be obferved, that this does not confirm the Doctrine of thofe who aflert, that all Hunger is caufed by an Acid, for there is not the leaft Portion of air Acid to be difcovered in the INTRODUCTION. 13 the Stomachs of the moft rapacious, and, con- fequently, the moft hungry Quadrupeds, Birds, or Filh. Cardialgia, or, as it is ufually call’d, the Heart¬ burn, from a Stimulation of the Cardia, or left Orifice of the Stomach, which is endued with a moft exquifite Senfe, by the acid Juices contained in the Stomach. This Species of Heart-burn is cured by Chalk, or any other alcaline Abforbent. But there is another fort caufed by an alcaline Acrimony, which muft be treated with diluted Acids. Coagulations of the Aliment taken into the Sto¬ mach, efpecially if it happens to be Milk; Pains, Flatulencies, and fpafmatic Contractions of the Inteftines, but particularly of the Ileum. Thefe are caufed either by the Acrimony of the acid Juices, ftimulating the fenfible Membranes of the Inteftines; or, which I believe is much more fre¬ quently the Cafe, by the Rarefaction of that ex¬ tremely fubtilc and elaftic Vapour, which arifes from vegetable Juices during the ACtion of Fer¬ mentation ; which has been called by fome of the Chymifts, Gas Sylvejlris. Thefe Symptoms often arife to fuch a Degree of Violence, as to conftitute that Diftemper which is called the Cholera Morbus , and which, without a great deal of Care, will fometimes be fo acute, as to prove fatal in a few Hours. As thefe Acidities mix with the Bile in (he Duo¬ denum, they muft necefiarily alter its Nature, and render it una&ive. And as the Bile has a con- fiderable Share in aftimilating the Aliment, and converting it into good Chyle, this Allimilation muft be prevented, in proportion as the Bile, by reafon of any foreign Admixture, deviates from i 4 INTRODUCTION. its own Nature. The fame holds good in regard to the Pancreatic Juice, and the Saliva, both which, in a natural State, contribute to the Digeftion of the Aliment, and the Converfion of it into a bal- famic Chyle, capable of entering the la&eal Vef- fels, and mixing with the Blood without com¬ municating to it an) Acrimony, either alcaline or acid. But when the Aiftion of the above-men¬ tioned Juices is impaired by an Acid in the Primes Vi#., an acid Chyle is formed, and the very Ex¬ crements difcharged from the Inteftines, betray an Acid in the Smell. By a careful Obfervation of thefe Signs, we may difcover an acid Acrimony to prevail in the Stomach and Inteftines. And then it is theBufi- nefs of the Phyfician, and Intereft of the Patient, to correct it in the Primes Vies , before it infers the Blood, becaufe then the Diforders, arifing from it, are not fo eafily remedied. But, when the Glands and glandular Secretions are affe&ed, the Cafe becomes much more difficult and dange¬ rous. When the acid Acrimony reaches the Blood and Juices, it is difcovered by its EfFetfts. Thus, when the acid Chyle is communicated to the Blood, as it cannot by the Force of the Circula¬ tion be intimately mixed with it, fo as to form one uniform Mafs, the Blood lofes by Degrees its florid red Colour, and the Patient, in confequence of this, becomes pale. Of this we frequently meet with Inftances in weak Children, and Girls of a lax Habit, labouring under a Chlorofis, whofe Blood, as it appears when let out of the Veins, is white, inftead of red, mixed with fome Streaks of red Blood, Hence alfo the Serum of the Blood is INTRODUCTION. 15 is chylous, as it appears after {landing a fufficient time to feparate. The Secretions from the Blood, thus affe&ed with Acidity, are alfo frequently acid. Thus, in Women of a lax Habit, we fometimes meet with acid Milk. The Saliva is alfo in fome Cafes infe&ed with an Acidity, and even the fweat has an acid Smell. But the Acidity of the Sweat is not in all Cafes a bad Symptom; for in Fevers, where the Juices have had a 7'endency to an alcaline Putrefa&ion, thefe Sweats are a good Sign, as they difcover that the Danger from an alcaline Putrefaction is at an End. This Symptom is taken Notice of by Hippocrates , and ranked amongfl thofe of good Prefage. From this State of the Blood, Obftru&ions in the Capillary Veflels are generated, and hence troublefome Itchings of the Skin; Puftules, very frequent after eating great Quantities of Fruit; Ulcers which are pale, flow in their Progrefs, and difficult to heal. Hence alfo Coagulations of the Blood, which render it unfit for Circulation, and confequently for Nutrition, and the Ufes of the animal (Eco¬ nomy. But the acid Acrimony has yet a worfe EfFe& when it reaches the Nerves, nervous Membranes, and the Brain; for then, by {Emulating thefe fenfible parts, it is produ&ive of Convulfions, Epileptic Fits, an irregular Circulation of the Blood, and at laft Death, of which Children af¬ ford too frequent Examples. From what has been faid with refpedt to an Acid abounding in animal Bodies, many Difor- ders, to which fedentary People, and Women of a lax Habit, are fubjeft, may be difcovered and underflood, 16 INTRODUCTION. underftood. But it will be particularly ufeful in explaining the Diftempers to which Children are fubje#, in whom all the Caufes of an acid Acri¬ mony feem to contribute to their DeftruCtion, as acefcent Aliment, Laxity, and want of Motion. Poor People, whofe Food is principally of the farinaceous Kinds of Vegetables, and who eat but little Flefh Meat, are fubje# to thefe Diforders, but would be much more fo without the ftrong Exercife they generally ufe ; for Exercife, as was before obferved, by (Lengthening the animal Fi¬ bres, and promoting the Digeftion of the Ali¬ ment, and Affimilation of the Chyle, prevents a#1 acid Acrimony from being formed in the Juices. Artificers alfo who are concerned in the Pre¬ paration of acid Spirits, or who ufe them in their Trades, are very fubje# to contra# Aci¬ dities in their Juices. Of this fort are thofe who prepare Cerus, and fcarlet Dyers. Diforders from a prevailing Acid in animal Bodies, are to be cured, in general, by fuch things as are direCtly oppofite to the Caufes of Acidity. Thus, Aliments are to be ufed which are of an alcalefcent Nature, or which turn al- caline upon Putrefaction, Such are Broths made of the Flelh of Birds, Quadrupeds, or Fifti; Jellies made of the fame; and the Flefh of thefe, which belt anfwer this End, either roafted or boiled. Thofe Vegetables alfo which contain an aro¬ matic alcaline Oil, as they are oppofite to Aci¬ dity, are in this Cafe proper in medicine or Food. Of this the illuftrious Boerbaave gives the fol¬ lowing Catalogue: Wormwood, INTRODUCTION, i y Wormwood. Greater Galangals, Pauce all alone, or Letter Galandals. Jack by the Hedge. Elecampane. Garlic. Dill. Wholefome Wolfsbane. Angelica. Anife. Smallage. Long Birth wort. Round Birthwort. Wild Radilh. Cuckow Pint. Swallow-Wort. Afparagus. White Afphodel. Bafil. Cabbage. Aromatic Reed. Calamint. Holy Thiftle. Ladies Thiftle. Carraway. Avens. Cloves. Scurvy-Grals. Onion. Lefler Centaury. Wild Carrot. Rochet. Eryngo. Dittander. Marjoram. Horehound. feverfew. Spurge Olive. Navew-Gentle. Crefles. Catmint or Nep. Origany. Pepper. Leeks. Pellitory of Spain. Radifh. Rue. Soap-wort. Satyrion. Mother of Thyme. Savin. Savory. Acrid vermiculated Houfeleck. Muftard. Squill. Thyme. Treacle Muftard. Spotted Ramfons. Nettle. Zedoary. Ginger. Hedge Muftard. Agrimony. Amongft Foods that are proper to deftroy an acid Acrimony in the Juices, are, Firft, thofe aquatic Fowls that prey on Fifli Dr Frogs. Secondly, I 18 INTRODUCTION. Secondly, thofe Birds which devour InfeCIs; for in thefe the volatile Salts are rendered highly alcaline, having undergone a double Sublimation, or rather Rectification, firft in the Body of the lifh, brog, or InfeCb, and next in the p'owl or Bird that eats it. A third Species of Animals, proper in thefe Diforders, are thofe which, though their Food is very fimple, yet by exceffive Motion have their alcaline Salts highly exalted, and rendered extremely alcaline and penetrating. A fourth fort are Fifh of Prey, and Shell-Fifh. Amongft the firft fort is the Duck, of which Lemeryi ays, that which is tame yields much Oil, volatile Salt, and Phlegm; but the wild Duck yields more volatile Salt, and lefs Phlegm. It is for this Reafon the laft have a higher Tafte than the tame fort. To this Clafs belong all Fowls of the Duck kind, as the Teal, Widgeon, Ma- creufe. The Bittern yields more volatile Salt than the Duck. The Goofe. All Fowls of the Goofe kind yield a great deal of volatile Salt, but they that are wild more than the tame fort. And it may be laid down as an univerfal Rule, that wild Animals yield more volatile Salts, and thofe of a mere al¬ caline Nature, by Reafon of the greater Motion and Exercife which they ufe, than thofe which are tame. It is on account of the volatile Salt in Geefe, that their Fat is very penetrating. It Ihould feem that the Solan Goofe, whofe Oil, upon Fufion, emits a very penetrating and fetid fmell, and whofe Flefh is of a very exalted Tafte, Ihould contain the greateft Quantity of alcaline Salts of any of the Goofe Species. Boerhaave reckons the Larns, or Sea-Mew, amongft thefe Fowls of Prey. Amongft INTRODUCTION. , 9 Amongft the fecond fort are the Sparrow, Chaffinch, Mavis, Felfare, and Lark, which yields a great deal of volatile Salt, as does the Partridge, Pheafant, Quail, Land Rail, and Plover. Lejnery. Of the third Species are the Woodcock, Snipe, Hare, Deer, and wild Boar, all which contaia large Quantities of highly exalted volatile Salt. The Eggs of the Birds or Fowls mentioned above, as well as their Flefh, are excellent Food, when an acid Acrimony prevails. Almoft all forts of Fifh may be numbered a- mongft the fourth Species, becaufe they either prey upon other Fifh, or Infers, and yield a very volatile alcaline Salt. That the Meaning of the Words volatile Sa/ts, fo often ufed, may be underftood, I muff take Notice, that the Salts of mod: vegetables are fixed ; that is, they do not rife in Diftillation, aeing detained by a large Portion of Earth, to which they are ftrongly united. But this Earth I is feparated from them by Putrefa&ion, info- much, that mod: vegetables, which are putre¬ fied, yield in Diftillation a volatile Salt, much ike that of Animals. And as the Diffolution of vegetable Food, in the Stomachs of Animals, has ■he fame Effect upon it, as Putrefaction, that is, iifengages the Salt from the fixing Earth, for :his Reafon all the Salts of animal Bodies are vo- atile, highly alcaline, and of a penetrating Na- :ure. The Salts alfo of many Plants, that have an tromatic Acrimony, yield a volatile alcaline Salt >y Diftillation, as Muftard, Horfe-Radifh, Scur- vy-Grafs, and many other of thofe fpecified.in he Catalogue given above. It is thefe Salts fn animal 20 INTRODUCTION. animal and vegetable Subftances that neutralize and deftroy the acid Acrimony prevailing in the Primae Vise, and the animal Fluids. With the Aliments fpetified above, Boerhaove advifes every three Hours a Glafs of the following Wine, containing one Ounce. Take French white Wine a Pint and half. Salt of W T ormwood two Drams, mixed together. There are many forts of Medicines which ei¬ ther deftroy the Acid, or render it ineffe&ual, fo that the Acrimony thereof can do no hurt. For this Reafon thefe are to be ufed in an acid State of the Juices. Abforbents feem to claim the firft Place amongft thefe, becaufe when immerfed in Acids, they have the Faculty of deftroying their Acrimony, and rendering them mild and inofFenfive. This Clafs confifts of the dried Bones of Fifhes* as the Jaw Bone of the Pike. Of the Eyes, Claws, and Shells of Crabs, Crevices, and Lobfters. Of the Shells of Oyfters, and other Sea-Fifh of the teftaceous Kind. Of Coral, Pearl, and Mother of Pearl. Of Chalk, Bole, Ofteocolla, and fat marly Earths. Amongft thefe are alfo the Lapis Haematitis, Filings of Tin and Iron. Some of thefe Abforbents mix with the Vifci- dities which they meet with in the Stomach and Inteftines, and with them form a tenacious kind, of "Mortar, if I may fo call it, which fticks to the INTRODUCTION. 2l the Stomach and Inteftines, and does a great deal :>f Mifchief. This however may be prevented i>y giving them either mixed with gentle cathar¬ tic Ingredients in fmall Quantities, or elfe by giving gentle Purges, repeated at proper Inter- /als during their Life. Hoffman is of Opinion, that the Medicines of this Clafs do a great deal of Mifchief by increaf- ng Vifcidity in the Stomach and Inteftines, un- efs they meet with an Acid; and in this Cafe hey are of great Service, not only by deftroy- ng and taking off the Effects of the acid Acri¬ mony, but by forming a neutral Salt, which is )f itfelf an admirable Refolvent, and well adapted o cure the Diforders proceeding from a redun- lant Acid. Hence the Mifchief that young Girls do them- elves, who are inclined to what is ufually called he green Sicknefs, by taking great Quantities of ^halk. Lime, and other Abforbents, is accounted or and underftood. They are dire&ed by Na- ure to eat thefe, in order to relieve themfelves inder the uneafy Senfations they perceive in heir Stomachs, from the Stimulation of the acid Vcrimony. But as they take them in great Quantities, and without proper Purges to carry hem out of the Stomach and inteftinal Tube, rhen they have had their good Efte&s, they orm vifcid Concretions, which hinder Digeftion, top the Orifices of the La£teals, and confe- uently prevent a Supply of Chyle from being onveyed to the Blood, and hence Weaknefs, liability to Motion, Palenefs, and the reft of hofe Symptoms which Phyficians obferve in Girls /ho have ufed themfelves to eat thefe Abforbents. This 22 INTRODUCTION. This natural Inclination to Things capable of relieving the prefent Diforders which affed Ani¬ mals, is common in the brute Creation, and is, called Inftind; and Phyficians, by a careful At¬ tention, may daily difcover fomething of the fame kind in Man, which dire&s to what will relieve. And it is probably for this Reafon that Hippocra¬ tes lays it down for a Rule, that thofe Meats and Drinks , though not altogether fo proper , which are agreeable to the Patient , are to be preferred to thofe which are better^ but unpleafant. Aph. L. 2. 38. Diluters alfo are fometimes proper in thefe Cafes, becaufe the more an Acid is dilated, the weaker it is, and confequently ads in a lefs De¬ gree. Thus the ftronger Acids, in the Quanti¬ ty of a fingle Drop, corrode and deftroy the Skin or Flefh of any Animal that it touches. But when the fame Quantity of Aid is diluted with a large Portion of Water, it becomes innocent and inoffenfive. It was doubtlefs this Confideration that direded Dr. Sydenham to give large Quantities of warm water to one that had taken corrofive Sublimate, both by the Mouth as a Vomit, and by way of Clyfter. But thefe Diluters muft be ufed 'with Care and Caution, for they relax and weaken the Or¬ gans of Digeftion, and thereby increafe one Caufe of Acidity. Thefe" Diluters are either Water itfelf, or Decodions of animal or vegetable Subftances made with Water. Another Clafs of Medicines, which give Re¬ lief in an acid Acrimony, confifts of fuch Sub -1 fiances as {heath the Spicula, or (harp Points of the Acid; and prevent their Adion on the fen-1 fible INTRODUCTION. 23 fible Membranes, and at the fame time defend the nervous Fibres from its Acrimony. But thefe are fubjedt to the Inconveniencies mentioned a- bove in regard to Diluters, that is, they tend to relax ftdl more the Fibres of the Organs of Di- geftion already too weak. Amongft thefe are the following: % Almonds, both fweet and bitter. Piftachio Nuts. Common Nuts. Filberts. W alnuts. Cocoa Nuts, of which Chocolate is made. Seeds of the white Poppy. The exprefled Oils of all thefe, and of Olives. Jelly Broths of Flefh or Fifh. To this Clafs alfo belong the oily aromatic Ve¬ getables, of which I have given a Catalogue above. There is another Clafs of Medicines of great importance, where an acid Acrimony prevails, Decaufe upon being mixed with Acids, they im¬ mediately raife a ftrong Effervefcence, deftroy he Acid, and are themfelves at the fame time leftroyed, both together by their Union form- ng a new Species of Salt, neither alcaline nor icid, but neutral, which is endued with con- iderable medicinal Virtues, being gently ftimu- ating, diuretic, diaphoretic, and refolvent. I he Subftances, which induce this great and idden Alteration in Acids, are. Fixed alcaline Salts, prepared from burnt Ve- etables of any fort. Volatile alcaline Salts dialled from animal Sub- ances putrefied Vegetables, or alcaline aro- f atlC Plants * Soaps 24 INTRODUCTION. Soaps either fixed, as Venice Soap; or vola¬ tile, as the volatile, oily, faline Spirits diftilled from Blood, Urine, Hartfhorn, or Silk; the Offa Helmontiana, made by the Union of a highly rectified Spirit of Wine, with a ftrong Spirit of Sal Ammoniac. To this Clafs alfo belong volatile alcaline Salts united, by repeated Sublimations, with an aro¬ matic vegetable Oil, of which Boerhaave gives the following Example: Take the pureft Salt of Hartfhorn an Ounce, Chymical Oil of Lemons a Dram ; unite them by repeated Sublimations in a tall Glafi Veffel. Thefe however mull be ufed with great Can and Caution, for whenever the Blood is movei with too much Violence, and any Degree of Fever is raifed, thefe will infallibly increafe ii and the concomitant Symptoms, introduce other: and endanger the Life they are intended to prcfervi All the Clafies of Aliment and Medicine fpecified above, are very good Afliftants in tl Cure of Diforders proceeding from an acid Act mony, but are not fuftkient alone to complete ijfl for, fo long as the Organs of Digeftion remain i a State of Laxity, acefcent Aliments will aga produce the fame and renew the Diforder depen - ing thereon. For this Reafon the Cure muft : compleated by a corroborating Regimen, ai ftrengthning Medicines, that is, fuch as reftore K Fibres, Veflels, and Membranes, which comp e the Vifcera concerned in the Digeftion and f- fimilation of the Aliment, to that Tenfijji which are necefiary to the Performance of tl ir refperftive Functions. 2 Alim its INTRODUCTION. 25 Aliments adapted to render the weak Fibres of the Digeftive Organs, and the animal Fibres in general, ftrong, are fuch as require but a finall A&ion of thefe Organs, in order to convert them into good Chyle; and even thefe ought to be taken in very fmall Quantities at a Time, and to be repeated frequently, that is, the Quan¬ tity, and frequency of Repetition, muff be pro¬ portioned to the Power of digefting. For no¬ thing can be more irrational than to imagine that ftrong Aliments, and thofe in large Quantities, can contribute to the Strength of an Animal, whofe Organs cannot digeft them fufEciently for the formation of good Chyle. It is for this Reafon, that Hippocrates lavs it down for a Rule, that the more you nourijh , that is, the more Aliment you give to impure Bodies^ the more Mifcbief you do them. Aph. Sect. 2. 10. Aliments of the moft eafy Digeftion are, 1. Milk, which is a fort of Chyle already prepared, and gives the Stomach but very little Trouble to digeft it. But it cannot be a proper Food wftilft there are any Remains of Acidity in the Stomach and Inteftines, becaufe it will be fubjedf to curdle, when mixed with thefe; but when the acid Acrimony in the Primae Viae is deftroyed, it affords an excellent Nourifhment, it given in Quantities at a time,. not fuperior to the Powers of Digeftion, for then it will not be fubjedt to turn add. But Milk lofes all its medicinal, and a great dead of its alimentary Vir¬ tues, it once boiled. It muft therefore be taken Warm from the Animal that gives it. i he Milk of a Woman in the Flower of her Age, that ufes a good Diet, and moderate Ex- eiciie, is of all others the beft. Next to that B Afles; 26 INTRODUCTION. A lies; then Goats, and laftly Cows Milk. Boerbaave. 2. The raw white of an Egg juft laid, before it has had time to cool. This approaches very near the nature of the Serum of Blood, being tlefigned for the Nutrition of the Chicken dur¬ ing Incubation. But this, like Milk, lofes its Virtue when boiled. It may be taken in new Milk, mixed with an equal Quantity of Water, provided no Acidity, in the Primse Viae, forbid the Ufe of Milk. 3. Broths, prepared from the Flefh of young Healthy Animals, accuftomed to mode¬ rate Exercife, carefully cleared of the Fat. A- mongft thefe, Chickens claim the firft Rank, next Veal, then Mutton, and Beaf the laft. The Fat is eafily feparated from them, when fuffered to grow cold. They are beft when boiled in a Veil'd, flopped fo clofe, as to prevent the moll fubtile Parts from exhaling. Boerbaave. 4. Aliment in various Forms may be con¬ trived to be made from Wheat Bread, or Bif- cuit, moderately fermented, to deltroy the Vi- fcidity, to which all farinaceous Vegetables are fubjeCt. Boerbaave’s Directions are; to boil eight Ounces of Bread, or Bifcuit, with three Pints of Water for an Hour, in a clofe earthen Vefiel, and then to {train it through a Sieve. This may be mixed with Milk, Broth, Wine, Bear, or Water, as the prefent Circumltances of the Pa¬ tient fhall render either the one or the other molt fui table. - A very fmall Quantity of thefe Aliments Ihould be taken every Hour, or every two Hours, according as the Organs of Digeftion {hall be found to be more or lefs in a State of Imbecillity, 2 INTRODUCTION. 27 Imbecillity, but never to Satiety, or, to ufe the common Expreffion, till the Belly is full. Boer- haave, I am fenfible there are fome, who think Di¬ rections, in Relation to Aliments of this kind, deferve more the Notice of Nurfes, or thofe who are employed in Culinary Offices, than Phyficians. But nothing can be unworthy the Regards of a Phyfician, that can in any Degree contribute to the Cure of Difeafes. T hofe who have been Witnefles of the prodigious EffeCts of a well regulated Courfe of Food, obftinately per- ftfted in, for a fufficient Length of Time, in Cafes where the beft chofen Medicines have proved ineffectual, will not be difpleafed that I have been thus particular. Wine is a part of Aliment not to be neglcCted. Thofe that are proper, in the Cafe before us, are fuch as by their abundance of Spirit, and Styp- ticity, manifefled by their auftere rough Tafte, contribute to the neceflary Elafticity and Ten- (ion of the Animal Fibres, fuch. are Florence Wines, the ftronger French Clarets, the black Greek Wines, and fome of the Spanifh. And to thefe the Spirits of Wine, properly managed, may be added, generous Malt Liquors, and ftrong Mead. Boerbaave. Amongft Simples, all thofe that abound with earthy auftere Particles, and all aromatic Bitters, are adapted to brace the animal Fibres, promote Digeftion, and deftroy the Original Caufe of Acidity. But nothing is more effectual, by way of Medicine, in thefe Cafes, than Bitters, wherein Steel is an Ingredient: For Steel has great Vir- ; B 2 tue, 2 5 INTRODUCTION. tues, both as it is highly deftrudive of an Acid, and effectual in corrobborating the animal Fibres. This Regimen, and thefe Medicines, are of very little Importance without Excrcife, which muft be adapted to the Strength and Condition of the Patient. For Motion promotes the Al- calelcence of the Juices, and univerfally increafes Strength, of which the robuft Legs of Chairmen, and Arms of Watermen, afford obvious Ex¬ amples. I now proceed to give an Account of fuch Aliments as are of an alcaline Nature, that is, fuch as upon Putrefaffion do not turn Acid, but contrail an offenfive Smell, like that exhaling from putrid CarcafTes. Of vegetable Aliments, the Juices of fome, if expofed for a l ime to a Heat fufficient, will turn four, and thefe have been called acefcent Ve¬ getables. But there is a confiderable Clafs of Plants, which do not become acid by Putrefa&ion, but are refolved into a fetid oily Alcali. And from •thefe, it is remarkable, that no vinous Spirit can be produced by Fermentation ; for Fermentation is only an Effort to render Vegetable Juices acid, or rather to difentangle the latent Acid, and fe- parate it from the Oil and Earth, that confine and difguife it. To this Clafs belong almoft all the very acric Aromatics, which by the Pungency of then Tafle betray their Family. Thefe are feldon taken in Quantities fufficient to produce a Difeaf by their own Power, but are however capable o promoting any preceding Tendency in the Juice s to an Alcalefcence, and heightening it into : Diftemper. Phyficians fhould therefore be care, fu INTRODUCTION. 29 ful how they prefcribe the warm Anticorbutics, bee.aufe when any Degree of the above-men¬ tioned Alcalefcence prevails in the Juices, thefe will not fail to increafe it by their Ufe, and if long continued, the Patient will run a great Ha¬ zard of incurring a Putrefaction of the Lungs, Liver, or fome of the principal Vifcera, which, according to the part thus afte&ed, wi 1 be at¬ tended with a fetid Breath, fpitting of Blood, a putrid Diarrhoea, Dropfy, or Hepatic Flux. Amongft alcalefcent Vegetables, Bocrhaave enumerates the following: Wormwood. Scurvy Grafs Sauce all alone, or Jack Onions by the Hedge Lead Wort Garlic Foxglove Mad-wort Rocket Wild Radifh Cuckow Pint Stinking Oroche Afparagus Winter Crefles. Cabbage White Bryony Black Bryony Wild Parfley Treacle Wormfeed Guinea Pepper Motherwort Meadow Crefles Garden Spurge Lefler Centaury Germander Greater Celandine LefTer Celandine Hedge Muflard Spurge Hemp Agrimony Hedge HyfTop Sciatica Crefles Spurge Laurel Dittander Navew Gentle Water Crefles Garden Crefles Oleander, or Rofe Bay W ater-Pepper or Armf- mart Leek Radifh Rue Savine Savory Wall- 3 o INTRODUCTION. Wall-Pepper, orStone- Squill crop Treacle-Mu flard Muftard Spotted Ramfons Many of thefe are not proper for Aliment, as abounding fo much with an alcalefcent Acri¬ mony, that it renders them poifonous. Befides the Vegetables above-mentioned, there are many others which properly belong to this Clafs. All animal Foods have a fpontaneous Ten¬ dency ta an alcaline Putrefaction, the Milk of foine Animals only excepted. This is obvious to every one who hasobferved Flefh, when ex- pofed to a certain Degree of Heat, to putrefy and become foetid. But animal Foods differ very much: Firft, With RefpeCl to the Parts of the fame Animal. Secondly, With RefpeCf to the Food of the Animal. Thirdly, With RefpeCf to the habitual Exer- cife of the Animal. Fourthly, With RefpeCf to the manner of its being kill’d. Fifthly, With RefpeCt to the Seafon of the Year, or Climate in which it is eaten. I. With RefpeCl to the different Parts of the Animal, Milk differs very much from all the other parts, efpecially that of fuch Animals as live on Vegetables only, and Water; thus the Milk of the Afs, Goat, Cow, Mare, and Sheep, are acefcent, that is, turn four upon Putrefaction, like acefcent Vegetable Juices, from whence it is prepared, and not yet perfectly converted into an animal Subltance, by the Powers of Digeftion. And this Milk will acquire a Difference from the fort INTRODUCTION. fort of Vegetable, which the Animal that affords it principally feeds on. The Entrails of Animals alfo differ from the Mufcular Parts, and have a greater Tendency to Putrefaction, as being more full of Juices, and of thefe Juices fome incline more to PutrefaCtion than others. Thus we find, when an Animal dies, the Abdomen and its Contents putrefy firft. The Blood alfo is more fubjeCt to Putrefaction than the folid Parts, and promotes Putrefaction in the Solids where it abounds. Hence, the more animal Aliment is cleared of Blood, the leffer fubjeCt will it be to produce an alcaline Acrimony in the Stomach and Inteftines, and an alcalefcence in the Juices of another Aliment that cats it. II. With RefpeCl to the Food of Aliments* thofe which live on Grafs, or other acefcent Ve¬ getables, on ripe Fruits, or Corn, are furnifhed with Juices lefs inclinable to PutrefaCtion than other Animals, abound lefs with volatile alcaline Salts, and thefe Salts are lefs volatilized, and exalted. Hence upon PutrefaCtion they are lefs fetid, and offenfive. Of this Sort are the fol¬ lowing Animals. / The Lamb, and Sheep The Calf, Cow, and Ox The Kid, and Goat, efpecially when young 1 he Rabbit Swine, provided they are fed with Vegetables only The Tame Duck, if fed with Corn only The Tame Goofe, if fed with the fame Hens of all forts. Turkeys B 4 Tame 32 INTRODUCTION. Tame Partridges Tame Pheafants The Quail But all Animals which feed principally on other Animals, or Infedb, have Juices which abound with an highly exalted volatile Alcali, have un¬ dergone a fort of double, and fometimes triple Sublimation, or Re£tification, firil in the Or¬ gans of the Aliment which ferves for Food, and fecondly in thofe of the Animal which feeds on it. III. Animal Foods differ with Refpedl to their AaFtual Exercife ; for ftrong Exercife, long con¬ tinued, exalts the volatile Salts of Animals, and makes them approach to a State of Putrefadfion. The following Animals, ufed commonly for Food, abound wdth a volatile Salt, exalted either by their Food, Exercife, or both. Deer, both red and fallow, by Reafon of their habitual Exercife, though they feed on Vegetables. The Hare for the fame Reafon. The wild Boar for the fame Reafon. Pigeons in feme Degree, becaufe of their ha¬ bitual Exercife. The Lark, both becaufe of its Exercife, and P'ood, which is principally of Inf,6ts The wild Duck, both becaufe of its Exercife, and Food, which conlilfs much of fmall Fifh, Frogs, and aquatic Infedls. This is alfo true of all the Duck Species. The wild Goofe, Solan Goofe, and all of the Goofe Species, for the fame Reafon. The wild Swan, or Elk, for the fame Reafon. The i INTRODUCTION. 33 The Bittern, becaufe of its Food, confiding principally of Fifti and Frogs. The Woodcock, becaufe of the great Exercife it is ufed to. The Snipe, for the fame Reafon; and in ge¬ neral all Birds of Pafiage, very few excepted. The Plover, and Lapwing, both becaufe of their Food, which is principally of Infects, and their Exercife. The wild Pheafant becaufe of its Food, which conftfts principally of Ants. The Sparrow, and all fmall Birds which feed partly on Infects, partly on Vegetables, and ufe much Exercife, have Juices pro- portionably alcalefcent. IV. Animal Food is more or lefs Alcalefcent, with Refpect to the manner in which it is killed. Thus if an Animal is killed whilft very hot with ftrong Exercife, or foon after, the Tendency to Putrefaction in the Juices will be very much in- creafed; infomuch that an Ox, or Sheep, killed in fuch a manner, will be as fubject to Putre¬ faction as an Animal whofe Juices are naturally more alcalefcent, but killed whilft perfectly cool. Hence Deer, and Hares that are hunted, and Birds killed by hawking after a long Flight, con¬ trail: an immediate Tendernefs, which is the firft Stage of Putrefaction. Animals alfo which are fhot, ftrangled, or killed in any manner which prevents their Bleed¬ ing, are more fubject: to an alcaline Putrefaction, than thofe which are fuffered to bleed freely. Of this the nice Judges of Culinary Arts are fo fenfible, that they frequently kill Fowl by llrangling them, in order to exalt their Tafte, B 5 - or, 3 4 INTRODUCTION. or, which is the fame thing, increafe their Ten¬ dency to PutrefaCtion. V. The Climate, or Seafon, makes a Diffe¬ rence in animal Food, becaufe Putrefaction is always in Proportion to Heat, and confequently the Juices of the fame Animal will be more difpofed to an Alcaline PutrefaCtion in warm Climates and Seafons, than in thofe which are cold. Hence the Inhabitants of very hot Climates are obliged to ufe animal Food fparingly; and through a NegleCl of this Confide ration it is, perhaps, that many of the northern Europeans who travel far to the South, contract Calentures, and putrid Fevers. I am alfo perfuaded, that the indifcriminate Ufe of animal Food in the hotted Summers, and coldeft Winters, is pro¬ ductive of many acute Diftempers and Deaths in England. Molt forts of InfeCts are highly alcalefcent. bilh of all kinds are alcalefcent, and that in a very high Degree. Thofe of frelh Lakes and Rivers, however, are lefs fo than Sea-Filh; and again, the fofter fort of Filh without Scales are obferved to incline fooner, and more, than thofe furnilhed with Scales, to an alcaline PutrefaCtion, and Shell-Filh molt of all. And it may be laid down as a certain Rule, that of all forts of Animals, whether terreftrial, or aquatic, thofe which putrefy fooneft, and be¬ come moft offenfive when putrid, incline the Juices of our Bodies moft to an alcaline Putre- iaCtion, when ufed as Food. And indeed fome ol them are not to be eaten fafely for this Rea- i'on, without Vinegar, Salt, or acefcent Vege¬ table Liquors. From INTRODUCTION. 35 From what has been faid under the preceding Articles, in Relation to the Alcalefcence of ani¬ mal Aliments, one Reafon at leaft will appear, . why it pleafed the fupreme Being to forbid the Jews, a People that inhabited a very warm Cli¬ mate, the Ufe of many forts of Aliments as Food; and why they were enjoined to take away a great deal of Blood from thofe they were allowed to eat. It would be prudent if we, though Inhabi¬ tants of a colder Climate, would however be¬ lieve, that he who cannot err, has confulted our temporal Welfare in every pofitive Injun&ion he has laid upon us, though the Reafons for it may not always be very obvious; for this would furely incline us by Acts of implicite Obedience to fe- cure to ourfelves Happinefs and Health. But that I may fet the Advantages, accruing to the Children of Ifrael from thefe Prohibi¬ tions, in a ftronger Light, I fhall make the fol¬ lowing Obfervations on the Foods they were for¬ bid to ufe, with this further Remark, that if we, even in a cold Climate, would conform to the Rules laid down by the wife Legifiator of the Jews, Longivity would be more frequent amongft us, as we fhould be much lefs fubject to be af¬ fected by epidemical Diftempers, and acute Dif- eafes of all forts, which carry off at leaft two thirds of Mankind. Nor would chronical Af¬ fections perhaps be fo terrible, and difficult to conquer, as they are found to be at prefent. It muft be remembered, that the Climate, in which the Children of Ifrael lived, was very hot, and that therefore every Species of Aliment which is improper to be eaten in our Climate, on ac¬ count of its Tendency to an alcaline Putrefac- B 6 tion^ 36 INTRODUCTION. tion, was much more pernicious in the warm Country inhabited by the Jews. 1 he Aliments forbidden the fetus were, Blood. This is extremely fubjedt to an aka - line Putrefaclion, and the Juices formed from it are highly alcalefcent , and fubjecf to putrefy, f or the fame Reafon all Animals whatever killed, without being fuffered to bleed fufficiently, are improper hood. It is well known to common Obfervers, that the more fucculent, and Juicy the Flefh of Animals is, the more fubject it is to Putrefa&ion. If an Animal has been heated by hunting, there feems a further Reafon to let it bleed, in order to lefTen the Tendency to Putrefaifion it acquires by Exercife and Heat. And thus we find it dire&ed, Leviticus, Chap. X VH. Ver. 13. yJnd whatfoever Man there be of the Children of Ifrael, or of the Strangers that fojourn among you, which hunteth or catcheth any Beafl , or Fowl which may be eaten j he J, hall even pour out the Blood thereof, and cover it with Duji. Animals which die of themfelves are un- wholefome, both as they do not bleed, and as their Juices are generally in an a&ual State of Putrefadlion, or near it, before they die. And we find the Flefh of fu.h Animals forbid in the above quoted Chapter, Verfe the 15th. The Camel. Though the Food of this Ani¬ mal is only Vegetables, and Water, yet the Fi¬ bres are hardened, and render’d in a great Mea- fure indigeftible, and the Salts are highly exalted by its habitual Exercife. The Coney , as we tranflate it, but Bochart in his Nierozoicon fays, it is a large Species of Rat , and others call it a Mountain Rat. Thus Pro- 2 verbs a INTRODUCTION. i7 verbs 9 Cbap. XXX. Vcr. 26. Thefe Animals are faid to make their Houfe in the Kochs. As the general hood of all Creatures of the Rat Species is Animal, their Juices muft be con- fequently much inclined to an alcaline Putre¬ faction, and ( therefore their Flelh mull: be un- wholefome. The Hare. The Animal we call thus is certainly meant in this Place; the Septuagint tranflates it by tieuruma, and with this the Syriac and Arabic Verfions agree; and thus the Jews underftood it, who abftained from eating it, as We learn from Plutarch , 4 Queji. 5. and Cle- mens Alexandrians , Pcedag, 2. 10. The Hare is remarkable for being extremely timorous, and this makes it ufe a great deal of Exercife by way of Precaution, when he goes to feek his Food, and at the Approach of any Danger, either real, or imaginary ; this habitual Exercife probably contributes to the Exaltation of the Salts. We find in Effect that the Hare has a very high Tafte, even in our cold Climate ; and this high Tafle univerfally is an Evidence, that the animal Flelh which gives it is ftrongly inclined to an alcaline Putrefaction. It is re¬ markable that the old Britons abftained religi- oufly from eating Hare, as we learn from Ccefar ie Bello Gallico, L. 5. The Swine. This Animal is remarkable for 'ilthinefs, and feeding on all manner of Ordure, ven Carrion if it falls in his Way. It is the I'nly Animal in the Brute Creation fubjett to he Leprofy ; and alfo fomething very like what we all the King’s Evil, called in Eatin Scrofula , om Scrofa a Sow ; as this Difeafe is in Greek ailed Xo^aj from Xo*p?, a Swine, The Meaflesis another 3 8 INTRODUCTION. another filthy and contagious Difeafe which this Brute is frequently infedted with, infomuch that it has pa{fed into a Proverb, as we learn from Juvenal , who calls it Porrigo. In this Diftem- per, all the flefhy Parts are full of innumerable fmall, round, white, and hard Subftances fome- what like Hail Stones. Hence it muft appear to every reafonable Ob- ferver, that the Flefh of this Beaft, as an Ali¬ ment, muft be highly improper for a People fo fubjedt to Leprofies, as the Jews appear to have been, and who were Inhabitants of a warm Climate, which renders every thing more incli¬ nable to Putrefaction. JU BEASTS which do not both divide the Hoof, and chew the Cud. Under this Prohibition are included all Beafts of Prey, and thofe which eat Flefh, whofe Juices are highly alcalefcent for Reafons before given. All Animals of the Horfe and Afs Kind,^ are alfo here prohibited. And we find that the Flefh of all thefc is difficult to be digefted, and affimi- lated by the vital Powers, and that the Juices are rank and alcalefcenty perhaps becaufe they are frequently heated by the habitual Exercife they are obliged to ufe for the Service of Man. I cannot explain fcientifically all the Effedts which Chewing the Cud may have upon the Flefh and Juices of the Animal that does it. But it is w’orthy of Obfervation, that all Creatures which chew the Cud live on Vegetables and Water only, have a very flow Digeftion, fpend a great part oi their Time in getting their Food, and the refl either in chewing the Cud, or fleeping ; fo that INTRODUCTION. 39 it is accidental if they ever ufe Exercife fufficicnt to heat themfelves, harden their Flefli, and exalt their Salts to any confiderable Degree of Alcalef- cence. Of this the Cow, and Sheep are obvious Examples. Deer both chew the Cud, and divide the Hoof; and their Juices are notwithftanding fomewhat alcalefcent , as they are ufually kill’d amongft us. The Flelh is, however, tender, and eafy of Digeftion ; and if they are killed, ac¬ cording to the Levitical Law, that is, if they are fuffered to bleed plentifully, this Tendency to an alcaline Putrefa&ion is in a great meafure re¬ moved. All FISH which have not Fins andS cales. Thefe are what Medicinal Writers call Pifces Molles. It has been obferved above, that all forts of Fifh are very fubjedf to Putrefadion; but thofe without Scales more than others, and Shell- filh moft of all. The Eagle. The Ojjifrage. The Ofpray. It is an Eagle , fo called from his Strength, which we may imagine to be the little black Eagle, which is therefore called l alena. "The Syriac renders it a Crow. The Kite , fo called from his Flight, which is very ftrong, efpecially when he hangs in the Air, without moving his Wings. The Merlin , a kind of fmall Hawk. The Raven , or perhaps the NySiicorax. The common Owl. The Nochia , a Species of Owl. The Cuckow . Tho 4 o INTRODUCTION. The Hawk. It is explained a Bird with which other Birds are taken, and which Fowlers carry on their Fifts. The Gofs-Hawk. Some tranflate it an Owl; others, Onocratatos , a Bird which makes a Noife like an Afs. The Cormorant. The Great Owl. The Juices of all thefe are highly alcalefcent , both as they are Birds of Prey, and as their habi¬ tual Exercife is great. The Swan , or Chough-Daw. It is of no great Importance which is here meant, for the Juices of both are much alcalefcent , and their Flefh rank, and fcarcely digeffible. 'I he Bittern. This Fowl feeds on Fifh ; the Flefh is very rank, and fubje& to Putrefa&iom 'T he Gier Eagle. It feeds on Flefh. The Stork. The StorJ feeds on Frogs, Serppnts, and other Reptiles, which are extremely alcalefcent , and therefore it mud afford Juices in a State very near to Putrefa&ion. The Heron. It feeds on Fifh, and ufes a great deal of Exercife, and for both thefe Reafons has Juices highly alcalefcent. The Lapwing , a Bird almoff perpetually on the Wing, and which feeds on Infects. The Flefh is of a very high Taffe, and near to a State of Putrefa&ion. The Bat. It feeds on Infers. The JVeafel. A Beaft of Prey. The Mnufe. It feeds on Flefh. The 'Toad. This is fometimes tranflated th e Ferret, and by fume it is called a Species of Locuji : But, as in the INTRODUCTION. 41 the Prohibition it immediately follows after the Toad , and is derived from a Word which fignifies clamavit , there is great Reafon to believe it ihould be underftood the Frog , literally the Crier , or, the Beajl that cries , alluding to the croaking of this Reptile. TheLizard. Bochart calis it the Salamander , a fort of Lizard. The Snail. Bochart calls it here the Chanicelion ; in another Place quoted above, the fame Word fignifies a Swan , or Jack-Daw. All thefe Reptiles are extremely fubje£l to Pu- trefa&ion, as are Reptiles of almoft every kind : the Smell of thefe, when putrefied, is extremely offenfive; and hence we muft conclude their Salts to be highly exalted, and their Juices alealefeent to a great Degree. Before I proceed farther in the Account of an alcaline Putrefaction in the Juices, and its Confe- quences, it is necefTary that I fpecify the Parts into which the Blood is feparable by Chymical Analyfis. Firft then, if the Blood of a Perfon in Health, frefh taken away, is put into a Retort, with a Receiver accurately luted to it, and h then com¬ mitted to a Heat much lefs than is fufficient to make Water boil, a Vapour comes over, which condenfes into a Liquor very little, if at all, dif¬ ferent from Water, and which does not appear to be either alcaline or acid, faline, pinguious, or in any Degree acrimonious. And if the Fire is in- creafed to the Degree of boiling Water, the fame Vapour ftill continues to come over, forming exa&ly the fame kind of Water, till the Blood put 42 INTRODUCTION. into the Retort lofes much about feven eighths of the original Weight. If the remaining dry Mafs is taken out of the Retort and examined, it affords no Signs of con¬ taining any thing the leaft alcaline, acid, or acrid, but is utterly infipid, except that it taftes and fmells of burning, and that not much. This inclofed in a wooden Box, will keep for Ages without Putrefa&ion. But by a Sand-heat, gra¬ dually increafed, it yields firft a faltifh, oily, bitter Liquor, fomewhat inclining to be alcaline ; then a white volatile Salt; and, as the Fire in¬ creases, a yellow Oil, and with it the fame kind of Salt. Take the Receiver away that contains what is come over, and lute on another; urge the Remainder with the mod extreme Degree of Fire that the Glafs will bear without melting, and white Fumes will arife without ceafing, if the Operation be continued ever fo long, and with thefe, a black thick Oil. The Mafs remaining in the Retort is very black, and fhining, brittle; extremely light and fpongy, of a difagreeable Smell, empyreumatic, bitter, and fcarcely at all fait; this, when urged with a Heat almoft fufficient to melt the Retort, con¬ tinues perpetually to emit Fumes, and preferves its black Colour fo long as it remains in a clofe Vef- fel; but when expofed to a naked Fire, it flames, and, lofing this Blacknefs, becomes white, and is then found to be an infipid Earth, containing not the lealt Portion of an alcaline Salt j but a fmall Quantity of an Acid may be got from it by an extreme Degree of Fire, which Boerhaavt imagines to be the Offspring of the Sea Salt which had been ufed in Food, and remains in the Blood unaltered j but in his Obfervations on this Procefs, he INTRODUCTION. 43 he tells us, that he had obferved the fame Appear¬ ances in the Diitillation of the Blood of many Brutes, and therefore this Acid cannot be owing to Sea Salt, becaufe no Animal, that I know of, cats Salt, except Man and Pidgeons, unlefs do- meftic ones, as Dogs, and Cats, fometimes by Accident, not by Choice. I am fenfible it may be anfwered, that there is Salt, more or lefs, in all Water that Animals drink ; and I know a Salt may be procured from the Urine of Animals, much refembling Sea Salt in the Figure of the Chryffals, and fome other Properties. But if the Source of this Salt was the Sea Salt taken into the Stomach with the Aliment, human Urine would probably yield more of this Salt, than that of Graminivorous Animals, becaufe the Salt taken in the Water of thefe Animals, bears no Propor¬ tion to that which is eaten by a Man j however, it appears, that the Urine of a Cow, or a Horfe, yields a much larger Proportion of this Salt than that of a Man. Here then we find in the Blood, a Water, an Oil, a volatile alcaline Salt , a fixed Earth, and a Portion of Acid. And now, if we confider at¬ tentively the Progrefs of Animal Putrefa&ion, we fhall find it has exactly the fame Effects as the Di- ffillation deferibed above, and that it only differs from it in taking up a fomewhat longer Time. For firft the watery Particles exhale; next the faline Part is attenuated, and difengaged from the Earth and Acid ; and thus being render’d acrid, ilcaline, and volatile, rifes together with a Part of :he Oil alfo attenuated, and feparated from the Earth, and affects the Organs of Smell with a Nidor, or Stink, peculiar to Animal Subftances in a State of Putrefaction. The 44 INTRODUCTION. The reft of the oily Particles unite with the --Earth thus deprived of the finer Part of the Oil, Water, and Salt; and both together form a black, tenacious, vifcid Subftance, which, however, at laft is refolved, and leaves nothing behind but a pure Virgin-Earth, the Acid alfo exhaling. Thus the Animal Juices, by Putrefaction, undergo a thorough Alteration and Separation, after which it is impoflible to unite the feparated Particles again, fo as to make an uniform homogeneous Fluid, like what it was before. It is impoftible this PutrefaCtion ftiould prevail univerfally in the Juices whilft the Animal is alive j but particular Parts of the Body may putrefy, without caufing immediate Death. Alcalefcent Food alfo may putrefy in the Stomach and Intef- tines, and caufe great Diforders in the Animal CEconomy, when taken in Quantities difpropor- tioned to the Powers of Digeftion. And the Juices in general may have a ftrong Tendency to Putrefaction; and of this feveral Birds that feed on Carrion arefenfible, much fooner than Mankind ; for as foon as the volatile Salts, and rancid Oils, begin to exhale, the Organs of Smell, in thefe Birds, are fooner affeCted than ours, infomuch that they are frequently allured from confiderable Diftances, to the Neighbourhood of Houfes inha¬ bited by People in Fevers. The antecedent Caufes therefore of an Alcalef- cence in the Body, and the Difea'ies depending thereon, may be reduced to the following. i Alcalefcent Aliment, that is, Aliment of alcalefcent Vegetables, or of Animals, the Milk of graminivorous Animals only excepted. And amongft thefe, I'ifh, particularly their I ivers and Skins: Fowls that live on Fifh \ all Birds which prey INTRODUCTION. 45 prey on other Animals, or InfeCts, or which arc ufed to a great deal of habitual Exercife; alfo Animals killed whilft heaced with ffrong Exercife, incline more to an ■ alcallne Putrefaction than others. 2. A Weaknefs of the Organs of Digeftion. When this is the Cafe, the Aliment, following its natural Tendency, putrefies in the Stomach, and caufes what is ufually called a Surfeit; and the Chyle enters into the Blood in a State near to Putrefaction, or in part putrefied. 3. A great Strength of the digeftive and aflimi- lating Organs; for this produces 4. A great Quantity of Blood highly exalted, and in a State very near to Putrefaction ; and a Bile in a State of Putrefaction. It muft be remembered, that acefcent Aliments are, by the ACtions of the above-mentioned Or¬ gans, converted into Alcalefcent Juices, When therefore thefe Organs aCt ftrongly on Eood already alcalefcent, it muft be rendered more fo, and brought nearer to a State of PutrefaCtion. It is upon this Account that plethoric People are more fubjeCt to epidemical Disorders than others; that People in a full State of Health are more in danger of falling into Fevers, and thofe of a bad kind, than others whofe general State of Health is not fo good ; and that luch who have very ffrong Conftitutions, are more liable to peftilential Dif- orders, and putrid Fevers, than Valetudinarians. Hence Hippocrates , L. I. Aphorifm 3, advifes to beware of an Excel's of Health ; for the fame Strength of Conffitution which was fufEcient to bring the Blood and Juices to fuch a Degree of Perfection will exalt them into a Difeafe. And Celfus tells us, that a full State of Health is to be fufpeCt- ed: 46 INTRODUCTION. eft: _ Ergo ft plenior aliquis, & fpecioftor , & co+ loratior faftus eft , fufpetfa habere fua bona debet. Qua quia neque in eodem habitu fubftftere , neque ultra progredi pojftunt , fere retro , quafi ruina quo- dam , revolvuntur, Hippocrates thinks it prudent to fubtraft fome- thing from a State of Health arrived at the utmoft Perfection j becaufe, as it is not poflible it fhould remain long without Alteration, and cannot mend, it muft neceffarily grow worfe. But with all De¬ ference to fo great an Authority, I muft remark, that Nature has Refources of more Importance for the Prefervation of Life and Health, than any Aftiftances which Art can afford her, and from which the draws Help upon thefe Occafions. Thus in cafe of too much Fulnefs of Blood, an Haemorrhage lowers the Habit to fuch a State, as Hippocrates advifes us to reduce it to by Art. If the Juices are fo much exalted, as to tend too much to an Alcalefcence, the Acrimony attend¬ ing this State, before it becomes fenfible by any ill Confequences, frequently ftimulates the Glands ot the Skin, and thus caufes its own Evacuation by an increafed Perfpiration; or elfe, if it happens to affeCt the Glands of the Kidneys, it is carried off by Urine ; but if it falls upon the Liver, the moft likely Part to receive it firft, or the Pancreas, or the Glands of the Stomach and Inteftines, the Danger is prevented by Vomiting, or a Diarrhoea, or both, fufficient for the falutary Purpofes above- mentioned ; and hence the popular Opinion, founded on the Experience of all Ages, that a Loofenefs in the Spring and Summer is falutary. Thus we fee this Acrimony fo much to be dread¬ ed, is frequently, under the ConduCl of a well re¬ gulated INTRODUCTION. 4; gulated Animal (Economy, its own Antidote, and the .Means of preferving, inftead of interrup¬ ting Health. But here we muff fuppofe no Ex- cefles are committed, and regular Exercife is ufed. ■ 5. Long Faffing. For, if the Blood is not perpetually diluted with frefh Chyle, it will con- tradt an alcaline Acrimony, and the Breath will become fetid, till in the end a Fever and Death enfue from this Putrefadion. 6. A Stagnation of any Part of the Blood or Juices. Becaufe all animal Juices, which Magnate, fol • low their natural Tendency, and putrefy. 7. Great Heat, whether of the Seafon, or Climate ; external, or internal j natural, or arti¬ ficial. 8. Violent Agitation of the Blood. Becaufe it produces Heat. 9. Exceffive Exercife, efpecially if long con- inued. When any of thefe Caufes, or many of them :onjointly, have produced an Alcaline Putrefadion, t is manifefted by the following Signs, in the °rima Via. 1. Third:. It is obfervable that Nature, or rather the Author of Nature, has given to all Animals a ertain Sagacity, to enable them to diflinguifh diments which would be noxious to them, from lofe which arc falutary j and to dired them to ie Means of curing the Diforders they labour ider. This, in Brutes, is called Injlinft ; and 1 we the fame Propenfions calculated for the me good Purpofes in Mankind, I think we may roperly enough call them by the fame Name. In 4 3 INTRODUCTION. In the prefent Inftance, Third is railed ; that T 1 ' i*_ 4 - s-%. Annlr Ol l/lHtltlCS Oi ,n U1C picit-ilt- -- -- . . "r 1S an Inclination to drink large Quantities of fin all diluting Liquors. Now thefe Liquors dilute the alcaline, putrid, acrimonious Salts, relieve the prefent uneafy Senfation, and difpofe the putrefy¬ ing or putrefied Matter to bedifcharged out of the Stomach and Intedines, either by Vomit, or Stool. But if the Propen fity is to acid Liquors, which u generally the Cafe, thefe Acids, when mixed with the putrid Salts, deftroy them, and are both to¬ gether converted into a neutral Salt. & It is remarkable, that alcaline animal Salts, a Salt or Spirit of Harts-horn, taken internally vo Utile, raifes a Third, in the fame Manner, am for the fame Reafons. 2 . An utter Lofs of Appetite, and an Averho for Alcalefcent Aliment, particularly .of that foi of Aliment which originally caufed the Diforder. This is another Indance of the Indinct above mentioned ; or rather, of the IWtion of Pr< vidence, which watches over us in Sickneis as we as i n Health. An Appetite would be prejudice when the Stomach is in fuch a Condition, as n to be able to diged the Aliment taken into it and Alcalefcent Aliment would increafe the Ui ° r ^3. r *Nidorous Eru&ations, ojr Belches, whi< affedf the Mouth with the Tade of patrefi XT "Becaufe a Portion of the putrid Salta, a rancid Oil, is excluded, together with the rai ficd Air. # —.y . , 4. Putrid Sordes upon the Lips, Teeth, long Palate, and Fauces, which aftett the Organs Tade with a Senfation of Bitternefs, becauie Af mal Oils, when they grow rancid, become bitt INTRODUCTION. 49 or perhaps this Tafte may be caufed by the Bile too much exalted, and tending to'Putrefa&ion. 5. A Sicknefs at the Stomach, from the Stimu¬ lation of the acrimonious Salts, efpecially at the Sight, or even Idea of alcalefcent Aliment, near to a State of Putrefaction. This Stimulation in- creafed, caufes a Difcharge of the putrefied Mat¬ ter by Vomit, which is falutary, when the Dis¬ orders proceed only from a Putrefaction of the Aliment, in the firft Paflages; but if from a Pu¬ trefaction of the Liver, Pancreas, or any other of the Contents of the Abdomen, it is fometimes a very bad Symptom. When this alcaline Acri¬ mony afFeCts the Inteftines, it Simulates them to a Difcharge of their Contents by a Diarrhoea, which is alfo the Means of Cure, when the PutrefaCtion is confined to the Aliment contained in the Sto¬ mach and Inteftines; but is often fatal, when caufed by large Putrefactions in any of the Vifcera, Fifh that has been kept too long before it is eaten, will caufe a plentiful Diarrhoea; and a very fmall Quantity of putrefied Egg will have the lame EfFeCI, by {Emulating the Inteftines. 6. This alcaline Acrimony produces a Sponta¬ neous Laftitude, and univerfal Uneafinefs; a troublefome Senfe of Heat, and inflammatory iliac Pains. The EffeCI of an alcaline PutrefaCIion in the Blood, is its Diflblution into an alcaline acrimo¬ nious I luid ; the watery Particles Separate from the other Principles and exhale ; the fineft part of the Oil grows rancid ; the reft of the Oil joining with I'he Heart, they form together tenacious Obf ruc¬ tions in the Vefiels to which they adhere ; and the ^alts no longer uniformly mixed with the diluting , ater 3 foftening Oil, and neutral Earth, become ^ acrid 5 o INTRODUCTION. acrid and corrofive. Hence the Fluid circulating in the Veflels, which, in order to be fit for Nu¬ trition, and the Exigencies of the Animal CEco- nomy, muft be mild, and deftitute of all Acri¬ mony, is, in the prefent State, very far from be¬ ing accommodated to thefe falutary Purpofes; but inftead of that, {Emulates, abrades, and carries away a part of the Solids; and corrodes and de- ftroys the extremely minute Veflels, to which thefe of the Brain are above all others fubjeft; whence a Train of Symptoms which are ufually called nervous, as Delirioufnefs, Convulfions, Co¬ ma’s or want of Sleep. 1 This Corrofion and Deftruftion of the interna Parts is nothing more than what may at any time be produced on the external Skin, by confining a fmall Quantity of animal alcaline Salts, for a ftiort time, to any part of it, for it will then aft as a Cauftic, and raife an Efcar. This may ferve as a feafonable Caution to thofe who wantonly accuftom themfelves to fmell to volatile Salts, efpecially thofe which have their cauftic Acrimony exalted in Lime in their Diftillation ; for when a Part of thefe is drawn into the Lungs, it may, and with¬ out Difpute has very bad Effefts on the tender Membrane which lines the Lungs. In the State of the Blood mentioned above, the Liquors fecreted from it are fetid j and the Urine is high-coloured, approaching to Rednefs, in pro¬ portion to the Degree of Putrefaction prevailing, and the Patient necefiarily labours under a conti¬ nual burning Fever. From this Account of an alcaline Putrefaftion in the Blood, it is eafy to perceive, that the Con- fequences muft be a Difturbance, Depravation, or utter Deftruftion of all the Aftions, whether natural, INTRODUCTION. 5 t natural, animal, or rational; an entire Alteration in the Circulation, and confequently in the Secretions and Excretions which depend thereon, wuth ge¬ neral or local Inflammations, which, if the Pu- trefa&ion is confiderable, mud terminate in Sup-* purations, or Gangrenes, Sphacelations, and Death. The different Parts of the Body which are af- fe&ed by this alcaline Putrefaction, make feme Difference in the Cure. Thus, if the alcaline Aliments, taken in Quantities too large for the digeftive Powers, putrefy in the Stomach and In- teftines, and produce the EffeCts mentioned above, the moft rational Method of Cure is to procure their Difcharge, either by a Vomit or Purge, or both ; and in this the principal Symptoms muff be our Guide; for if from thefe we learn the Sto¬ mach is affeCted, a Vomit is to be given; but if the putrefied or putrefying Aliment is protruded into the Inteftines, a Purge will fometimes be fuf- ficient to promote their Exclufion. Proper Vo¬ mits, in this Cafe, are warm Water, Green l ea, Infufions of Carduus, or Ipecacuanha, in the Quantity of half a Dram; and Purges of the Sa¬ line kind feem beft adapted for this Purpole; be- caufe as they increafe the natural Tendency to a Diarrhoea, and thereby carry off' the offending Matter, they at the fame time relieve the Symp¬ toms, by deffroying a part of the Acrimony. Both Vomits and Purges muff be repeated, ac¬ cording as the Continuance of the Diforder fiiall make them appear neceffary. In general, one Vomit, but repeated Purges are required. I have met with a popular Remedy for an Over¬ charge ot the Stomach by alealefeent Aliment, of too much Efficacy to be omitted; it is the Run- C 2 net 5 2 INTRODUCTION. net with which Milk is curdled, in order to make Cheefe. Runnet is thus made; the firft Stomach of a Calf is falted and dried, or elfe preferved in Brine ; this Brine, or an Infufion of the dried Stomach in cold Water, is the Runnet. One or two Spoonfuls of this Brine in half a Pint of cold Water, or an Infufion of a Piece of the dried Stomach, about two Inches fquare, for a few Hours, in the fame Quantity of Water, if drank, is faid to take away all the uneafy Senfation caufed by the ftimulating Acrimony, and to promote the Expulfion of the offending Matter, either by Vo¬ mit or Stool. It would perhaps be fomewhat dif¬ ficult to demonftrate the fpecific Adlion of the Juices in the Stomach of a Calf whilfl it is alive, where all the Milk it takes is found curdled, and in Milk wherewith the Infufion of the fame Sto¬ mach is mixed, even after the Death of the Calf. I am equally at a Lofs to account for the falutary Effedl of Runnet, confidered as fuch, upon a hu¬ man Stomach, under the ill Impreffions of alcalef- cent Aliments putrefying therein : But I am fen- iible that the Salt, which preferves the Calf’s Sto¬ mach from Putrefadlion, will alfo have a very good Effedl upon the Aliment putrefying in the Stomach, deftroy totally or in part the alcaline Acrimony, and confequently relieve the Symptoms caufed thereby ; but whether all the good Effedls of Runnet as a Medicine depend on the Salt, I will not take upon me to determine ; I am, how¬ ever, certain, upon my own Knowledge, that it is an excellent Medicine in the Cafe above- mentioned. When a Tendency to this Putrefadlion is got into the whole Habit, and prevails in the Blood and Juices, the Cure is much more difficult and tedious, and the Diforder is attended with a much greater INTRODUCTION. 53 greater or lefs Tendency to an alcaline Putrefac¬ tion, the Regimen and Medicines proper to de- ftory or curb this Alcalefcence are of the utmoft Importance to the Art of Healing. The Regi¬ men, however, is moft to be regarded, for upon this the Cure principally depends. With refpedt then to the Cure, Bleeding feems proper, as it relaxes and diminifhes the Adtion of the Solids upon the remaining Mafs of Fluids, which leflens the Attrition betwixt the Solids and Fluids, and betwixt the Particles of the Fluids with each other; now, as Attrition is one great Caufe of Heat, and Heat a great Promoter of Putrefadtion, Bleeding promifes fair to remove at lead one principal Caufe thereof. In fuch Cafes alfo. Reft muft be ftridfly enjoin¬ ed, and an Abftinence from all forts of Motion rigoroully perftfted in: becaufe every Degree of Motion proportionally hardens the Fibres, and ac¬ celerates the Circulation of the Blood : this in- creafes the Attrition betwixt the Solids and Fluids, and betwixt the Particles of the Fluids with each other, and confequently promotes Heat, the Pa¬ rent of an alcaline Putrefadtion, and all its Con- fequences. Warm emollient Baths, Fomentations, and Clyfters, are alfo of fervice, as they relax the P ibres, and thereby help to remove one confider- able Caufe of Hear j and as the abforbent V'eflels take up a Portion of them, they become farther ferviceable bv diluting the Blood. vv ith refpedt to the Air which the Patient re- fpires, it fhould be temperate and refrelhing ; if too hot, it increafes the Pendency to Putrefaction ; if too cold, by contradting the animal P'ibres ; it is coniequentially produdtive of internal Heat. C 3 Hence 54 introduction. Hence the Reafons are very plain, why all Heat beyond Temperatenefs, whether natural, and produced by the Climate or Seafon, or artificial, and generated either by Fires, too many Bed- cloaths, or hot Medicines, mud neceffanly be pernicious in all Diftempers, where there is a Tendency to an alcaline Putrefaction. Our next Care mull be to faturate the B.ood and Juices with Aliments which are acefcent which have a ftrong Tendency to become acid when taken into the Stomach, or which arc aflu- ally acid : Such are either Milk alone, or dilutee with Water, Whey, and Butter-milk. Bread, which has been fermented, is anothei Aliment of the acefcent kind ; but if it hasi beer much fermented, it is a&ually acid. Of thi. trreit Variety of Foods may be prepared; by boil- fng it with Water, till it is of fuch a Confiftenc, as anfwers the End propofed, and afterwards add L to it other acefcent Ingredients as Wine, o the crude or prepared Juices of Fruits. Th- moft common of thefe is called Panada. Many Sorts of Aliments, exceedingly prope when there is an Alcalefcence of the Juices, ar nrenared from farinaceous Vegetables, parti cuhrW Barley and Oats. The Ptifan of the An tients > fo famous in all Ages, was made of Barle and boiled in Water, and feems to hav i o Q ] which obtained difFerei M Cn ! aC cord ng to fome Circumftances to t Names, accor g The Word is derive '^nrrlhth fi^es to M «. the Hufks , this being the full part of the Z its Preparation ; but the French have throug an unpardonable Error, applied the Name Mai to any fort of Medicinal ^on.^ INTRODUCTION. 55 Amongft farinaceous Vegetables the following are recommended. Buck-Wheat, or Fru- mentum Saracenetum. Mays, or Indian Wheat. Panick. " Spelt Wheat. Piftachio Nuts. Of thefe boiled in Water, and digefled for a •onfiderable Time, till they acquire a Tendency to Acidity, many forts of Food may be contrived, very proper in an alcaline State of the Juices. De- codfions and Emulfions of thefe, drank in large Quantities, are of confiderable Service; firjl* As they are in fome degree faponaceous, and diilolvc Obftrudlions in the Veflels, which Water alone cannot a<£! upon. Secondly , As they dilute the Juices inclinable to an Alcalefcence with an acef- cent Fluid. Thirdly, As they relax the Solids. And, Fourthly , As by their oily Softnefs they in- velope and obtund the alcaline Acrimony, and, thereby, rendering it mild, prevent its Effedls in the Body. I rauft not omit obferving, that acefcent Ali¬ ments in general feem more healthful than thofe which are alealefeent; and are lefs fubjedf to form Obftrudtions, provided they are taken in Quanti¬ ties proportioned to the Strength of the digefting and affimilating Organs, and by People inured to habitual Labour and Exercife. Thus Homer celebrates the Hippimolgi , a nor¬ thern Nation, whofe ufual Food was Milk, for Longevity. And the Mountaineers of Great Britain , who generally live on Milk, and Cakes C 4 made Wheat. Barley. Oats. Rye. Rice. Millet. 5 6 INTRODUCTION. made of Oatmeal, fermented till they grow quite four, are reiharkable for Health, Strength, Ac¬ tivity, and living to a very great Age, and are feldom or never vifited by epidemical Diftempers, in any confiderable Degree. And what Virgil fays of a northern Nation is fomething to our prefent Purpofe: Pccula lai't Fermento atque Acidis mitantur Vitea forbis . - Palis Hyperboreo feptem Subjeffa Frioni. Gens Ejfrcsna Virum Ripbao tunditur Euro, There is another Clafs of Vegetables of excel¬ lent Service, when the Juices tend to an alcaline Putrefaction. I mean the Summer or autum¬ nal Fruits, when perfe&ly ripe, as Oranges Lemons Elder Berries Cherries of all forts Citrons Garden Cucumbers Garden Gourds Figs Strawberries Pomegranates Jujubes Apricots Peaches Melons Mulberries Apples Sweet Plums of all forts Currants of all forts Rafberries Grapes, &c. Of thefe confiderable LTfes may be made. For they may be boiled, or roafted, and eaten occafionally; or their Pulp, or crude Juices, may be mixed with Panadas, Gruels, or other acefcent Aliments. Or elfe the Juices, expreifed after baking, or boiling them with a very fmall Quantity of Water, may be mixed with Food, or INTRO DUCT I OK 57 or given as a Medicine, firft adding to them the Quantity of Sugar which (hall be judged fuffi- cient. And it muft be obferved, that boiling or baking Fruits, deftroys a great Quantity of the elaftic Air which they cqntain when crude, makes them fit more eafy upon the Stomach, and thereby renders them more fit for medicinal Purpofes. With Refpedt to Fruits, it is a very great Error to condemn them in general as unwhole- fome; for on the contrary, when thoroughly ripe, they are the molt admirable Remedies that perhaps nature has furnifhed us with, and never pernicious unlefs taken in Quantities top excef- fiye, and difproportioned to the Powers of Di- geftion. Nothing can be better adapted to check that Tendency to an alcaline Putrefaction, which the Juices are fubjeCt to contraCt during the Summer’s Heat. We fcarcely meet with a more powerful Remover of Obftrudtions, than the Juices of ripe Fruits, if taken in Quantities f^fficient, frequently repeated, and thefe con¬ tinued for a confidefable time. For the Juices of fruits, when neutralized by the Heat of the Sun, that js, when perfectly ripe, are fapona- cepus, and capable of diffolving Obftruftions in the Vefiels which no other known Fluid is able tp a 61 upon . effectually. Every common Ob- ferver will judge, that Eruptions on the Surface of the Body are fylutary, and promife a future State ot Flealth. The Reafon of this is, tha£ when the okftrudting Matter, which forms Con^ cretions in the fmall Vefiels, is diffolved and re^ duced to Particles fmall enough to circulate with the Blood, the vital Powers find means of dif- .charging them by the inteftinal, or urinary Glands, 58 INTRODUCTION. or elfe difpofe of them by the Pores of the Skin ; now when it happens that the Particles of Mat¬ ter to be difcharged are fomewhat too large to perfpire, they flick in the perfpiratory VefTelsof the Skin, and there fuppurate; for Suppuration is one way which Nature takes to difburthen her- felf of what is ufelefs or ofFenfive. Hence thofe falutary Eruptions, which fre¬ quently appear on the Skin in various Parts of the Body, after a plentiful Ufe of Summer-Fruits, have been erroneoufly deemed, by many, the pernicious Effects of thofe Fruits, which in Re¬ ality a£ted the Part of a Medicine, and re¬ moved Obflrudlions, which otherwife might have produced a Difeafe. It is further to be remarked, that a Diarrhoea, or Loofenefs, after the Ufe of the abovementioned Fruits, is fo far from being dreadful, provided it keeps within due Bounds, that it does good Service to the animal CEcono- my, by carrying away the Matter of Obftruc- tions previoufly diffolved by the faponaceous Juices of the fad Fruits. But it is prudent to bake or boil thefe Fruits, both for the Reafons given before, as alfo, becaufe the Fire deftroys the Eggs of Infers, which are fometimes depo¬ sed in them, and becaufe it brings them to a more exa£t Neutrality, the Sun being fcarcely fufficient in our Climate to render them perfe&ly ripe. In an Alcaitftence of the Juices, watery Li¬ quids, drank warm efpecially, are alfo of Service, though endued with no faponaceous Quality, at they relax the Solids, diffolve the Salts, and car¬ ry them out of the Body, and contribute tc preferve the Blood in a State of Fluidity. As to Medicines, they may be contrived ii various Forms, either from native vegetable Acids INTRODUCTION. 59 as the Juices of Oranges, Lemons, Crabs, and many other acid Fruits, or the eflential Salts of acid Plants, as of the Sorrels. Fermentation alfo furnifhes us with many va¬ luable Medicines in this Intention. Thus Mo- ■ felle , or Rbenijh Wines, which incline to Aci¬ dity, are admirable, when diluted with a fufR- cient Quantity of any faponaceous Fluid. Thus alfo Vinegars of all kinds, are of confiderableUfe, properly diluted; and of thefe Medicines may be made extremely refolvent and abfterfive, by mixing them with Water, or Honey, or both, or infuftng in them Vegetables fuited to anfwer particular Intentions, as Squills, in making Oxy- mel of Squills. Many Medicines alfo of excellent Virtues are, and more might be, prepared by infpiflating the Juices of Fruits perfectly ripe to a Jelly or Rob, and amongft thefe none excells Rob of Elder, a Medicine which deferves the higheft Encomi¬ ums. By Diftillation we procure another Clafs of Medicines which powerfully deftroy a Tendency in the Juices to an alcaline Putrefaction. Thefe are the acid Spirits of Sal Gemmae, Sea Salt, Nitre, Vitriol, and Sulphur, commonly called Oil of Sulphur by the Bell. But thefe muft be taken diluted in a great Quantity of Fluid, and they are never proper, unlefs in Cafes where a great Tendency to Putrefaction renders the milder vegetable Acids ineffectual, as in the Plague, and fome very bad Kinds of the Small Pox. There is another Clafs of Medicines of very great Importance in the Cafe before us; I mean, the natural, or artificial neutral Salts. The na¬ tural neutral Saks are Nitre, Sea-Salt, and Sal C 6 Gemmae, 6 o INTRODUCTION. •9 Gemmas. The two laft are feldom ufed, except in Clyfters; but Nitre is, or at leaft ought to be, an Ingredient in almoft every Medicine, given with a View of checking the Progrefs of an alcaline Putrefadion. It is well known, that thefe Salts preferve all animal Subftances from Putrefadion ; and Nitre has a remarkable Pro¬ perty of preferving the Fluidity of the Blood, ei¬ ther in, or out of the Blood-Veffels. Nitre has aifo a Power of refolving Concretions already formed, and of expelling the obftruding Matter thus refolved by the proper Emundories, as by the Glands of the Inteftines, Kidneys, or Skin; it is alfo extremely penetrating, and thus it appears poffeffed of every good Property that can render it an eligible Remedy in all Diforders where Danger is to be apprehended from an alcaline Putrefadion, that is, in moft acute Diftempers. It is ufually given in a Powder or Bolus, or dif- folved in fome proper Fluid. Artificial neutral Salts may be made from al¬ moft every different fort of Acid, impregnated or faturated with any fort of Alcali, either fixed or volatile. The Acid and the Alcali muft be joined in fuch a manner that neither may pre¬ vail over the other. Whilft they are mixing to¬ gether, a confiderable Effervefcence arifes, and the Acid is deftroyed by, and deftroys the Alcali, and then both, thus united, form a Body very different in-every Property, Charaderiftic, and Medicinal Effect from the Parent Salts. Neutral Salts the moft generally ufed in Prac¬ tice, are the Tartars Vitriolatus, made as di- re&ed by Boerhaave , a Medicine very different from that direded under the fame Name in our Dnpenfatory, though made of the very fame In¬ gredients. INTRODUCTION. 6, gredients ; the Tartarus Regeneratus, and Tar¬ tarus Tartarifatus of the fame Author. Many extemporaneous Prefcriptions of a neu¬ tral f luid may eafily be contrived to very good Purpofes. Thus a Scruple of Salt of Worm¬ wood will faturate about half an Ounce of Juice of Lemons; or about ten or twelve Grains of volatile Sal Ammoniac will faturate half an Ounce of diftilled Vinegar; either of thefe mixed with an Ounce of fome fimple Water, and rendered agreeable by a few Drams of a proper Syrup, and the fame Quantity of fome compound Water, makes a very pretty Draught of confiderable Effi¬ cacy, which may be repeated as Occafion re¬ quires, for Example, every four Hurs. Thefe neutral Medicines deferve the fame En¬ comiums which I have given above to Nitre, and for the fame Reafons. From what has been faid above, with Refpe£i to the Caufes and Cure of Difeafes from a Ten¬ dency in the Juices, or any of them, to an al¬ calde PutrefaSion, it appears, that in all Dif¬ eafes where Danger is to be apprehended from the aforefaid Putrefaction, any acid Excretions are to be efteemed good Symptoms, as they are certain Evidences that the alcaline Acrimony is deftroyed. Thus in Diforders of the Stomach from fuch a Caufe, acid Emulations of Wind witnefs, that the Caufe of the Diftemper is al- moft, if not entirely removed. And thus in acute Diftempers, Sweats which have an acid Smell have been remarked to be of good Prefage. It has been obferved, that many who have re¬ covered of the Plague, and peftilential Fevers, have been affedled as their Health returned, with a faltifh Tafte in. their Mouths, fomewhat like that 6 2 INTRODUCTION. that of Sal Ammoniac; the Reafon of this ap¬ pears to be this: It is well known in Chymiftry, that a putrid alcaline Salt, when united with an Acid, forms a neutral Salt fomewhat refembling Sal Ammoniac. Now when the Juices have been loaded with fuch a putrid Salt, as it hap¬ pens in the Plague and peftilential Fevers, when this Salt is faturated with an Acid, the alcaline Acrimony is deftroyed, and the Patient by De¬ grees recovers, and then all the Excretions are infeCted with the muriatic Salt abovementioned, like Sal Ammoniac, and amongft the reft the Sa¬ liva; hence a perpetual Tafte, like that of Sal Ammoniac, in the Patient’s Mouth; and hence he fancies all forts of Aliments falted. There are other Differences in Aliments arifing from their greater or lefs Cohefion, or their greater or lefs Tendency to form a vifcid Mafs in the Stomach, when mix’d with the Juices refiding there, or convey’d thither. And fome other Va¬ rieties arife from Properties in Aliments, which are not underftood, and which Experience alone furnifhes us with the Knowledge of. Thus, for Inftance, the Quail is faid to caufe the Epi- lepfy in fome who feed on it. With RefpeCt to thefe, Dr. Moffett has fpecify’d whatever has been remark’d by the Moderns as well as the Antients, in the enfuing Treatife of Foods. I (hall conclude this Introduction, which a Paffage from a Difcourfe on vegetable Food, by Dr. Coccbi , an Italian Phyfician, fome time re- fident in England. A Doubt, fays he, lies between Vegetables and Animals, which of thefe two Subftances are moft likely to become proper and ufeful Matter fqr our Bodies. Plutarch long fince (in his T reatife INTRODUCTION. 63 Treatife againft eating Flefti) has made it a Queftion, whether fuch kind of Aliment was natural to Man, that is, fuitable to the Fabrick of his Body. And it is now about a hundred Years, as we find in the Letters of GaJJendus y fince this Matter was difputed very particularly amongft the Learned, who obferved that all other Animals were, by their conftant Habit and Man¬ ner of Life, depending on the natural StruXurc and AXion of their Organs of Digeftion, readily diftinguifh’d into thofe that feed on the Fruits of Earth, and the rapacious and carnivorous : Where¬ upon as the Queftion could not be decided this way, or by any Arguments drawn from natural Hiftory, the fame Queftion has fince been again propofed and demonftrated, by that eminent Ma¬ thematician Dr. Wallis , and that diligent Anato- mift Dr. Tyfon , as we read in the philofophical TranfaXions, from the greater Analogy in the Fabrick of the Paflages of the Aliment, and of the Organs of Digeftion in Men, with thofe of fuch Animals as feed on Vegetable Diet, mod of which, like Men, are furnifti’d with a Gut Colon , whereof moft of the Carnivorous are de- ftitute. But leaving thefe Reflexions, which may ap¬ pear too far fetch’d, we fhould rather confider, that moft of the Animals which ferve for human Food feed on Vegetables, except only fome few Birds and Fifties, from whence it finally appears, that the ultimate Matter of the two chief kinds of Aliment is almoft the fame in its fiift Com- pofitionj that is, always vegetable, and coming originally from the Earth. Thus, for the moft part, what fixes and unites itfelf to the Body of Man, either from the one or the other fort of Ali¬ ment, 64 INTRODUCTION. ment, is really nothing elfe but fome of the fo- lid and pureft Earth. But the Difference principally confifts, in that the frefh Parts of Plants, being of a much tenderer "1 exture than thofe oi Animals, are therefore much eafier to be feparated, (from the leffer De¬ gree of their Cohefion and internal Glew) and io yield more eafily to the dividing Power of our Organs. 1 he tender and frefh Parts of Plants abound with Water, and that fort of Salts, which by reafon of their Tafte, and Non-eva¬ poration by Fire, before they are diffolved, we call acid and fix’d: "1 o the Mixture of which, with a moderate oily and vegetable Fluid, is ow¬ ing their incorporating and diflolving Juice. Of this Juice animal Food is deftitute, as it is alfo entirely of the laid acid and fixed Salts ; but it abounds, on the contrary, with fuch as are apt to become, with a certain Degree of Heat, of an alcaline and volatile Nature, and to occafion, by their Mixture, the greateff Difpofition in our Liquids to an ultimate and totally mortiferous Diflblution. And on the leffer Quantity and lef? peifedf oily Quality of frefh Vegetables, depends a Difpofition in the Juices from them produc’d, lefs apt, without Companion, to receive thofe. fuperlative Degrees of Heat in their greateft and | moft intimate Agitations, whilft they are car¬ ried about in the Blood : p or Experience fhews, that no Liquid is found in all Nature more ready than Oil to receive or retain the Force of Fire, whether apparent or latent, from whatever Sub 7 ftance fuch Oil is extracted; although that ojf Animals feems yet more prompt and efficacious than all others. Hoyv INTRODUCTION. 65 * How fubtle our vital Fluid mud be, is then manifeft, from its forming itfelf gradually and fi¬ nally, into a Subfiance, fit for infenfible Tranf- Ipiration, and into that fpirituous Air that exhales continually, both within and without, from eve¬ ry living Body. In this Subtilty and Facility of our Liquids being diflributed into the innumera¬ ble Ramification of the Veflels, conllfls its Flu¬ idity, without which, thofe Particles that are hard and weighty would be difpofed in fome Places, and would by that means fill up the Ca¬ vities which ought to be kept empty and always open. From the Addition then of an aqueous, oily, and faline Juice, which the Chymifts call faponaceous, to the Subfiance of that innocent and fweet Soil, with which vegetable Aliments are fo plentifully endued, arifes that fo neceflary I and perfect Commixture of the diffimilar Parts of our Blood, and efpecially of thofe two moft co- i pious Fluids that fo conftantly avoid, and are fo 1 difficult to incorporate with each other, (I mean [Water and Oil) and whofe Separation, when it happens within us, produces fuch pernicious Ef¬ fects. And the much fmaller Quantity of the oleaginous Liquor that is found in frefh Vege¬ tables, in Comparifon of what is found in Flefh, not only prevents the Formation of a too tena¬ cious Glutton, but alfo of that Vapour, which, rifing with the Increafe of our bodily Heat, when the fat and faline Particles grow volatile, be¬ comes itfelf, at laft, venomous, and even pro- dudlive of Peftilence. I have always named frefh Vegetables, be- caufe the dryed ones have almoff all the bad Qualities of animal Food, particularly as their earthy and oleaginous Particles are too flrongly coherent 66 INTRODUCTION. coherent together: We fhould thus alfo exclude all aromatic Spices, and {ubftitute in their ftead, the green Tops of odoriferous and agreeable Herbs. We {hould rejecl old Pulfe, and all fa¬ rinaceous and oily Seeds, unlefs they are by Art well pounded, and mingled and diflolved with other ufeful Matters. We may fay the fame thing of dry’d Fruits, and of whatever elfe is preferv’d in various ways, and which compos'd the dry’d Diet of the Ancients: 7'he which, however it may have been commended as an In- ftance of Hardinefs, was not perhaps of the great- eft Advantage to their Healths. / / Health’s Improvement. CHAP. i. t Of DIET. i. What D i e t is. 2. Who were the Authors of it. 3. What Good it bringeth. I E T is defined, by very learned Scholars, an exadt Order in Labour , Meat, Drink , Sleep , and V°.nery : for they are thought to be Pythagoras his Pentangle or five fquar’d Figure; wherein (as Hippocrates faith of Man’s \5ody,l:deprin.) there be fevtral Confluences and Concurrences, ) et but one general Sympathy through all. Nevenhelefs Labour was appointed for moft to invite Aleat and Drink ; they to draw on Sleep , for the Eafe of our Labours; and all four to perfedt Generation : which is not only ejfendi fed femper ejjcndi caufa ; not only the Caufe 68 H ealt ii *s Improvement. ' . I of being, but of ever being : for indeed, after w e are dead in ourfelves, we recover in our Pofterity another Life. But in this Preatife I define Diet more particularly (as it is ufually taken both by the vulgar and alfo the heft Phyficians) to be an orderly and due Courfc obferved in the Ufe of bodily Hour ifoments, for the Prefervation, Recovery, or Continuance of the Health of Mankind: Which how and when it was firft invented, and by whom collected, neither Cardan, nor Scaligcr, x\ox Vir¬ gil, nor Montuus, nor Biefus , nor fafon Pra- tenfs, nor Pfellus, nor any (in my judgment) 6ave more truly declared, than Hippocrates him- Celt, Lib. de prife. med. avouching that Neceffity was the Mother, and Reafon the Father of Diet, for when Sicknefs crept into the World, and Men gave the fame Meats to fick Folks which they did to the Healthful, they perceived them to be fo far from Recovery, that they rather wax’d worfe and worfe. Hereupon being enforced to alter either the Kind or the Preparation, or the Quantity, or the Quality and Order of Nourish¬ ments, they knew by diligent Obfervation what was fitted for every Difeafe, for every Sex, Age, and Complexion, and accordingly committed them to Memory, or let them down in writing. Plu¬ tarch thinks that we firft learned this Knowledge of brute Beafts, /. de fol. anim. For Pidgeons and Cocks, before they fight, will eat Store (if they can get it) of Cummin-feed, to lengthen their Breath ; and Nightingales eat Spiders to prevent Stoppings ; and Lions having furfeited on Flefft, aoftain trom all Meat till it be digefted. So the Marlin t iught ten ier Perfons firft to keep warm their feet; the Storks to remedy Coftivenels of Body by the Ufe of Glifters ; the Hedge-hog to avoid • Of DIE T. 6 9 avoid walking in windy Seafons; the little Birds to bathe in Summer ; the Flies and Bees to keep home in Winter. For there is no Doubt but the Natures of Men were in former Ages fo ftrong, that they did eat and digeft every thing as it grew. Neither were Mills, Boulters, Ovens, and & arti- ficial Preparations from the Beginning ; but as Sicknefs of the Body increafed, fo the Mind dc- vifed Remedies, teaching Men how to thrafh and grind Corn, to make Bread, to boil, roaft, and bake Meat, to give thin and liquid Meats to weak Stomachs; and grofler Cates to them that be ftrong, after the Example of every Bird, who firft fofteneth and boileth the Meat in their Maws, before they give it to their young ones; neither fhoul-J we marvel hereat: For as'ignorant Sailors (whofe Errors and Imperfections no Man could perceive in a calm Sea) in a Tempeft do follow every Man’s Advice ; fo the Examples of Birds and Beafts did teach Tick Men Wifdom, when through Self-ignorance they loft the Light of Na- j ure, and knew not what was good lor them- (elves. I But leave we Plutarch 's Conceit, and let us fetch the Invention of Diet from a more worthy Teacher, yea, from the worthieft of all other, God himfelf. For can we imagine th'at he taught our Forefathers (having finned) how to dome peir Bodies, and not how, and when, and where¬ with to feed them ? He that taught Abel how to diet Sheep, would he leave him unfkillul how to diet himfelf? Or, had Cain the Art of tilling the Ground, and not the Knowledge how to ufe the Grain thereof? Knew Phyficians in Jacob's Time how to conferve dead Bodies, and Wanted they Knowledge to preferve the Living ? Where¬ fore jo Health’.* Improvement. fore how foolifhly foever fome afcribe the Inven¬ tion of Diet to Apollo , ALfculapius , and that many- ey’d O/iriS) or to Hippocrates^ Galen , or Afclepia- des ; yet let this reft immoveable, that it fpring- eth from an elder Time than that any Heathenifh Chronicle is able to record the Author thereof. For if the Multitude of Burials be an Argument of ill Diet, and contrariwife long Life an Argu¬ ment of good ; it muft needs follow, that before the univerfal Flood this noble Knowledge of Diet was not hid from the firft Patriarchs, but as per¬ fectly perceived as it was pradtifed. For till after the Flood, Men ufually lived to eight hundred Years, fome to nine, many to feven, and none (for ought we have heard or read) died a natural Death before five. Now if any Man fhall objedt, that the very Name of Diet is not mentioned before the Flood, and that therefore the Thing itfelf was not in ufe; I can fhape him no better Anfwer than from the Mouth of Hippocrates: Names are the Daughters of Men, hut Things the Sons of Nature. So that as foon as Men began to feed, no doubt they were infpired with Wifdom, how much, how often, . and of what to feed. For we muft not imagine, tho’ they had as it were Oftriches Stomachs and Chants Strength, (infomuch that Lamech in his Wound could cruih into pieces the mightieft Champion of our Age) that therefore they ne¬ glected Preparation or Proportion in the ufe of Nourifhments; nay, Reafon itfelf will conclude, that as one Shoe did not fit every Man’s Foot, nor Children and young Men fed alike in thofe Days, fo every Man knew, or was taught, h s peculiar Diet, moft proper, healthful, and conve¬ nient for his own Lftate. Wherefore as many Difeafes Of DIET. 7 I Difeafes are recovered with our Phyficians, but lone without Phyfic; fo albeit there lived no lietary Phyficians before the Flood (if I fhould rrant fo much) yet no Man can deny, that thro’ ceding or fading, drinking or thirfting, taking :his thing or refufing that, they preferved their Life-oil (as i may term it) for many Ages, which n this furfeiting and riotous Age is commonly con- fumed in lefs than one. But fome Men will further obje£t againft me; What, Sir, may Diet prolong a Man’s Life? why then, thro’ Diet, we may prove immortal, ar at lead live as long as Adam did. Whereunto [ anfwer, That albeit Immortality is denied upon the Earth to mortal Men, yet fo much Life is prolonged by a good Diet, by how much Difeafes thereby are efchewed. For, as Solomon faith, Prov. xxvii. To whom is pain of the belly, and gripings, and rednefs of eyes , and want of health ? even to thofe that keep no meafure, but greedily hunt after wine, and rife up early to drink Jlrong drink. Some in Hippocrates 's Time, feeing precife Obfervers of Phyfic die as foon as they which ufed no Phy- fic, conceived prefently no otherwife of Phyficians than as of Kings in a Stage-play, carrying golden Crowns, and Scepters, and Swords, commanding for the time whole Empires, but indeed void of in-born Majefty in themfelves, and of outward Ability fit for fo high a Calling. So now, in our Days, the Name of Diet feems but a Scar-crow to the unwifer fort, who think it beii Diet, to keep no Diet at all; faying, (as William Sommers laid to Sir John Rainsford ) Drink IVine and have the Gout, drink no Wine and have it too. Which in effctt, what is it elfe than, with the Sicilians , to ere& a Temple to Riot ? or, with the Barba¬ rians, 2 72 He alth’j Improvement. rians, to praife Surfeiting ? or, with Ulyjfes'i drunken Companions, to open Motus's Bottle all at once ? whereby their Ship was fo far from pro¬ ceeding, that all Art and Prayers, yea, and all the Gods (in a manner) were not able to keep it above the Waters. Let me laugh, faid Demo¬ critus, at Men’s Follies, who diet their Horfes, Sheep, Cattle, yea, their Capons and Geefe, and yet themfelves keep no Diet. They forefee, by porking of Ravens, flying of Kites, croaking of Frogs, and bathing of Ducks, when it will rain j yet forfeiting daily, they cannot forefee their own Ruin. To the like Purpofe fingeth a French Poet, Si tu veux vtvre fainement Aye pour toy tel penfcment : Quo de ton cheval , falcon ou chien , Ffuand autre chofe leur vint que bien . If Sicknefs thou wilt long award, Have of thyfelf that due Regard, Which to their Falcons, Steeds, or Hounds, Men bear, when Sicknefs them furrounds. And truly well might the one laugh, and the other ling, at fuch hollies. For albeit an exquiflte thin Diet (called of Jobertus, lib. cle vulg. error, the Inch-diet, wherein we eat by Drams,.and drink by Spoonfuls) more perplexeih the Mind than cureth the Body, ingendering a jealoufy over every Meat, Sufpicion on every Quantity, Dr pad, Fear, and Terror over every Proportion (bereav¬ ing the Head of Quietnefs, the Heart'of Security, and the Stomach confequently of good Conception) yet the full Diet, as it is more ufual, lo it is in effect 2 Of D I E T. 73 effect no lefs dangerous. Would you fee the Dif- commodifies of Excefs ? why then imagine you faw Ferres rolling before break of Day in his own Vomits, Dionyftus belching up a four and unplea- fant Breath, Polyphemus ftript of Wit and Me¬ mory, Cleomenes , King of Lacedemonia , playing after hisDrunkennefs at Cherry-pit with Children, Elpenor ( UlyJJes's Companion) breaking his Neck down the Stairs, Ennius racked with the Sciatica, Kiglus the Wreftler dead of an Apoplexy, Ana¬ creon fo unable to fwallow any more Drink, that he was ftrangled with a Grapes-l^ernel, Vibius Crif- pus dying at the Stool, an old Englijh Knight dy¬ ing at the Chamber-pot. On the other Side, will it pleafe you to mark the Commodities of Diet, and moderate nourifhing ? then behold Timotheus , who being continually fick through daily forfeit¬ ing, came once to Plato’s Table, w r here*he fed as the Company did, and drank moderately ; the next Morning he cried out with this Admiration, “ O fweet Plato , fweet Plato ! how truly fweet ‘i are thy Suppers, which make us to fleep and f* awake fo fweetly ? How able am I now to all <4 Exercifes, being erft fo unable to the leaft La- ** hour?” No marvel Timothy; for as the Sun cannot warm us when Clouds be between, fo Ex¬ cefs either fetters or divides the Mind’s Faculties. How careful is the Mind always to preferve Life ? yet many a Drunkard finks under Water, becaufe Reafon cannot teach him the Art of Swirning, the inward Senfes being choaked with abundance - of clammy Vapours. Divine Hippocrates (whom I can never fuffi- ciently name nor honour, compaieth Diet molt fitly to a Potter’s Wheel, going neither forward nor backward, but, as the World itfelf moveth, D equally 74 H ealth’j Improvement. equally round ; mciftening that which L too dry, drying up that which is too moift, refioring true Flefh, if it be decay’d, abating proud FlHh, by Abftinence, if it be too much, neither drawing too much upward nor downward, as pee villi Sawyers do •, neither clapping on too much nor too little Sail, like unlkilful Mariners, but giving, like a wife Steward, every Part his Allowance, by geometrical Proportion, that the whole Houf- hold may be kept in Health. Such a Steward was Jfclepiades, who cured only by Diet, infinite Dif- eafes. Such a ong w T as Ga en , that famous Phy- fician, who being three or four times fick before he was twenty*eight Years old, looked afterwards more ftri&ly to his Diet ; in fuch fort, that a hundred Years following he was never fick but once ; and died only through want of radical Moifture. Such a one finally was Hippocrates , who lived till he was a hundred and nine Years old, or at leaf! till he wasfourfcore and five, with¬ out any memorable Sipknefs; and yet he had by Nature but a weak Head, infomuch that he ev<*r wore a Night-cap. Wherefore let us neither with the Impudent, call Diet a frivolous Knowledge, or a curious Science with the Imprudent; but era • brace it as the Leader to perfect Health ; which, (as the wife Man faith) is above Gold, and a found Body above all Riches. The Romans onde banilheu Pbylicians out of Rome, under pretence th t Phyfic Druggs weakned the People’s Sto^- tiiachs ; and Cooks, for corrupting and inf rcing Appetites with fbange Sauces and Sea'onii-gsi and Perfumers, Anointers, and Bath-malters, be- .caufc they did rather mollifv and effeminate the Rc?ria*is Min s. than any whit profit or hel. their Jodies. Yet they retained Oafa, thb clnef JJ tot ill 3 Of DIE T. 75 of that Time, and all them that were able, with¬ out Phyfic, to prevent or cure Difeafes ; efteem- ing Diet, (as it is indeed) to be fo honeft, plea- fant, and profitable a Science, that even Malice itfelf cannot but commend it, and her Enemies are forced to retain it. Thus much, or rather too much, in the Com¬ mendation of Diet; for which fome Spartan Cen- for would feverely punifh me, as /Into la ides did the Orator that praifed Hercules , whom no wile Man ever difcommended : For howfoever idle Heads have made thefe addle Proverbs; i. Diet¬ ed Bodies are but Bridges to Bhyficians Minds. 2. We J,ball live till u f e die , in fpite of Diet. 3. Every DifeaJ'e will have its CourJ'e. 4 . More Rhubarb , and lefs Diet , &c. yet the wifeft Man, and King of all others, hath eftablifhed it upon fitch Grounds, as neither can, nor (hall ever be fhaken with all their Malice. C H A P. II. 1 . How many forts of Diet there be. 2 . Where¬ in Diet confiftelh materially. 3. Wherein Diet conftfeih formally. ’ f Body and found of Mind, which I will not deny, if you compare them with the Borderers of :he Palejline Lake ; neverthelefs, as Tul/y faith of Women, they fmell bejl which fmell of nothing ; o verily the Air that fmells of nothing is beft to lourilh us in Health, tho’ otherwife in fome Sick- iefs a perfumed Air is beft, and alfo to expel a oathfome Stench ; or, like to the neighing of Apollo’s 88 Health’j Improvement. ♦ Apollo 's Horfes, to roufe up dull and fleepy Senfes. In which refpeft I am of Arijlotle 's Opinion, that fweet Smells were appointed to be in Flowers, Fruits, Barks, Roots, Fields and Meadows, not only for Delight, but alfo for Medicine : Never- thelefs, as the tadlef. Water makes the bed Broth, fo the fmelling Air gives the pured, 1 will not fay the dronged, Nourifhment to our Spirits. In Plutarch's time Men were grown to this Wantonnefs, that every Morning and Night they perfumed not only their Apparel and Gloves, but alfo their Bodies, with fweet Ointments, made of mod coflly Spices; buying with great Charges, what fhall I fay, an idle, a needlefs, a womanly, nay, verily, an unnatural and more than brutid Pleafure : For every Bead loveth his own Mate, only for her own Smell, whatfoever it be ; bu fome Men love not their Meat, nor Drink, no; the Air, nor their Wives, nor themfelves, unlef they fmell, or rather dink of fweet, codly, ant foreign Fumes; which being taken without Caufe do the Head more Hurt, than being taken upoi Caufe they do it Good. Wherefore if thy Brail be temperate, and not too moid, cold, or dull efchew a drong fmelling Air, fuch as comes from Wall-flowers, Stock-jellyflowers, Pinks, Rofes Hyacinths, Mead-fweet, Hony-fuckles, Jeflamin Narciflus, Mufk, Amber, Civet, and fuch like contenting thyfelf with the Ampleft Air, which for found Complexions, is Amply the bed. O if for Recreation and Pleafure-fake thou deflred i fome time, let it not be of a full or drong Scenl but mingled with fweet and four, as Violets wit Thyme, and breathing rather a iharp than a fu! fome Swcetncfs. Ar Of AIR. s 9 And thus much of the Choice of Airs : Now eome we to the Preparation and Ufe of them. CHAP. IV. Of AIR. i. How it is to be prepared. 2. How it is to be ufed. QATTRUS, that Goat-bearded God, the firft time that ever he faw Fire, would needs kifs it ind embrace it in his Arms, notwithftanding that 3 rometbeus forewarn’d him of coming too nigh ; ar he knew well enough the Nature of Fire to be ach, that as in certain Diftances, Times and Quantities, it may be well endured, fo in others : is harmful and exceeding dangerous. The like iay I lay of Hear, Cold, Moifture, and Drynefs ;1 the Air, which in the firfl: or fee nd Step to¬ wards them may and do preferve Life ; but the earer you come to their Extremities, the neaier jre you to death: fo that either you will be burnt ,'itb Satyrui , or frozen to death with Philo/Iratus , r dried up for lack of Moirture with Darius' s duiers when they could get no Water, or die as >e inhabitants of the Lakes of Egypt do with too iiuch Moidure Wherefore let every one con- ler his own Strength and Conftitution of Body ; t. feme, like to new Wax, are diflolvqd w th e leaf}: Heat, and frozen with the leall Cold j hers, with Salamanders, think nothing hot lough ; others, like to Silk-worms, can abide d Cold j others, with Smiths and Woodcocks, tin 90 - Health’j Improvement. can abide thofe Frofts which even the Fifties themfelves can hardly tolerate: fo likewife dry Conftitutions laugh and ling with the Thrufh, when Rain approacheth ; when others, of the < contrary Complexion, do mourn and lament, with the Plouver, becaufe it is fo wet. Which being fo, I fnall no doubt deferve well of every Man in teaching him fo to piepare the Air, that fometimes abroad, but always at home, it may be tempered, according as he moft needeth, and pu¬ rified from all Infedlion. Concerning the tempering of the Air in our Houfes: Is it too hot and dry ? Then cool it by fprinkling of Vinegar and Rofe-water, by ftrewing the Floor with green Flags, Rufhes newly gathered, Reed Leaves, Water-lilly Leaves, Violet Leaves, and fuch like ; Hick alfo frefh Boughs of Willow, Sallow, Poplar, and Afti, for they are bell of all, in every Corner. Is it too cold and moift ? Amend it by Fires of clear and dry Wood, and ftrew the Room and Windows with Herbs of a ftrong Smell, as Mints, Penny ; royal, Camomel, Balm, Nep, Rue, Rofemary, and Sage. Is it too thick and mifty ? 1 hen at¬ tenuate and clear it in your Chamber, firft, by burning of Pine-rofin, as the Egyptians were wont to do ; then prefently by burning in a hot tire- fhovel fome ftrong white Wine Vinegar: but their chiefeft Perfume of all other, called Kuphi, the great Temper , was made of fixteen Simples; namely, Wine, Honey, Raifins of the Sun, Cy¬ pres, Pine-rofin, Myrrh, the fweet Rufh, Cala¬ mus Aromaticus, Spiknard, Cinnamon, Berrie: of the great and little Juniper, Lignum-aloes Saffron, Fig-tree Buds, and Cardamoms: Fc which Compofition, in Galen s time, Democrate Of A I R. 91 added Bdellium, and the Seed of Agnus Callus ; and the Phyficians in Plutarch 's time, the Roots of Calamint. It were needlefs to write how wonderfully Apol¬ lo, I mean our new Apollo, Francis Alexander of Vercelles (for fo, like a proud Italian ^he calleth his own Work) commends the fame in his third Beam ; or how Plutarch and Avicen extol it above all others, in that it not only bringeth any Air to a good Temper, but alfo cleanfeth the fame of unclean Spirits, openeth it when it is cloudy, at- tenuateth it when it is too thick, refineth it when it is full of dreggy Mixtures, and confequently dif- pelleth Melancholly from the Head, Fear and ill Vapours from the Heart, procuring natural and quiet Sleep, and therefore not unworthily confe- crated to the Gods. Now as the Egyptians burnt Rofin in the Morning, and their Kuphi towards Noon, fo albeit the Sun fet when many heavy Vapours lie in the Air, the Antients were wont to burn Myrrh and Juniper, which difperfe thofe heavy Vapours, leaving in the Houfe a rectified Air, quickening the Senfes, and correcting thofe melancholic Fumes that pervert Judgment; where¬ fore the Egyptians call Myrrh Bad and Juniper Dolech , the Purifiers of Air, and Curers of Mad- nefs : whereat let no Man wonder, hnce the very Noife of Bells, Guns and Trumpets, breaketh the Clouds, and cleanfeth the Air ; yea, Muhc itfelf cureth the Brain of Madnefs, and the Heart of Melancholy, as many learned and credible Au¬ thors have affirmed : much more then may it be tempered, and altered to the good or hurt of our inward Parts, by Smells and Perfumes, whereby not onF a meer Air, a*' in Sounds, is carried to the inward Parts, but alio inviiible Seeds and Sub- ftances 92 Health’j Improvement. kances qualified with variety of divers things. For who knoweth not that the Smell of Opium bringeth on Sleep, Drowfinefs, and finking of the Spirits ? Contrariwife, the Smell of Wine, and ftrong Vinegar out of a narrow mouth’d Glafs, awaketh the heavieft headed Man, if poffibly he can be awaked Furthermore, becaufe (linking Smells (unlels one by little and little be accuftom- ed to them, as our Dung-farmers and Kennel- rakers are in London^ and as a Wench did eat Napellus , a mod cruel Poifon, ordinarily as Meat) are both noifom to the Head, and hurtful to the Lungs, Heart and Stomach, in fuch fort, that they "which live in a (linking Houfe are feldom healthy ; It (hall be good, where the Caufe can¬ not wholly be removed, to correct the Accident in this fort, with fweet Waters, fweet Perfumes, fweet Pomanders, and fmelling unto fweet fragrant things. r A Ifabella Cortefa , that dainty Lady of Italy, comb’d her Hair, and fprinkled her Gown, every Morning, with this fweet Water (ol owing, whereby the Air circumfluent w s fo perfumed, that wheretoever (he flood no Stench could b< difcerned. ' / Take of Orange-flower Water, Water o Vi lets, P ater of the Mu(k-geranium, an< the M (k Rofe, Water of red and damafl Fofes, of each a Pint; Powder of excellen fweet Orris, two Ounces-, Powder ot Stora: Calamite, Benzoin, and Indian Wood c Fofes, of each half an Ounce; Civet Dram and a half. Mingle all tog ther, an 'let them Hand in Balneo three Days. The afti of a I R. n after the Water is throughly cold, filter it out with a fine Filter, and keep it to your Ufe in a Glafs very clofe ftopt. Mar melius maketh another, not much inferior unto this, whereof this is the Defcription. Take a Pottle of damafk Rofe-water. Benzoin, Storax Calamite, Cloves, and Wood of Aloes, of each an Ounce; Amber-greefe and Civet, of each a Scruple : Boil them to¬ gether in Balneo, in a Glafs well flopt, for twenty-four Hours fpace: filter it out when it is cold ; and having hang’d fifteen Grains of Mufk in it, tied in a clofe Cloth, fet it five Days in the Sun, and keep it to your Ufe. Thefe Waters are coftly, but verily exceeding rood ; neverthelefs finceMen of mean Fortune are ikewife to be preferved, I appoint for them thefe >erfumed Cakes, and for the poorer fort a lefs oftly Perfume. Take of Benzoin fix Drams, Wood of Aloes four Drams, Storax Caiamite four Drams, fweet Orris two Drams, Mufk a Scruple, white Sugar-candy three Ounces; beat them into fine Powder, and with red Role-water, work them into a (tiff Pafte, whereof make a fort of little Cakes, no bigger nor thicker than a Threepence; dry them in a cold fhadowy Place, and then put them up very clofe in a Glafs, and take out one or two, or as many as you pleafe, and burn them upon quick Coals, The 94 H ealth’j Improvement. The poorer fort may make thefe Fire-cloves far better than vou (hall find any at the Apothecaries, after this Receipt. Take of good Olbanum half a Pound, Storax Calamite an Ounce and a half. Laudanum half an Ounce, Coals of Juniper Wood two Drams; make all into fine Powder, and then, with two Drams of Gum-tragacanth, mingled with Rofe-water, and macera'ed three Days together, and an Ounce of Sto¬ rax Liquida, form the Pafte like great Cloves, or Sugar Loaves, or Birds, or in what Form you lift, and dry them in an Oven when the Bread hath been drawn ; kindle one of thefe at the Top, and fet it in any Room, and it will make it exceeding fweet. But for as much as no Air is fo dangerous as that which is infected with peftilent Influences, let us confider how, and in what fort that, of all other, is to be corrected. Hippocrates (for ought we read of, when his own Country, and the City of Athens were grievoufly furpriled of the Plague) ufed no other Remedies to cure or preferve the reft, than by making of great Fires in each Street, and in every Houfe, especially in the Night-time, to pirifv the Air; whereby the Ci¬ tizens of Athens being delivered from fo great and dangerous an Enem , erected to Hippocrates an Image of beaten Gold, and honoured him alive as if he had been a God. And verily, as run¬ ning Water, like a Broom, cleanfeth the Earth ; fo fire, like a Lion, eateth up the Pollutions oi the Air, no Ids than it confumeth the droily MetaiS : fo that Cleanlmefs and good Fires cannot • but Of A I R. 95 jt either extinguiih or leflen any Infe&ion: Vhereunto if we alfo add the Ufe of [other utward Correctors and Perfumers of the Air, no oubt it will be much if not wholly amended. The Peftilence (as I have noted, to my Grief, 1 mine own Houfe) taketh fome, firft, with a reat Chilnefs and Shaking; others, with a hot Iweat, and often fainting. In fome Places it eigneth moll: in Winter,others it never annoyeth >ut in Summer. The firfl: fort are to correct the \ir about them with good Fires, and burning of lignum Aloes, Ebony, Cinnamon-bark, Safl'a- >hras and Juniper, which, as Matthias recordeth n his Herbal, retaineth his Scent and Subfiance a lundred Years. Burn alfo the Peels of Oranges, Citrons, Lemons, Myrrh, and Rofin : and the loorer fort may perfume their Chambers with days, Rofemary, and Broom itfelf. Make alfo i vaporous Perfume in this fort. Take of MalFc and Frankincenfe, of each an Ounce ; Citron-peels, Calamint-roots, Herb- grafs dried, and Cloves, of each three Drams; make all into a grofs Powder, and boil it gently in a perfuming Pot with Spiknard and white Wine. The fecond fort (I mean fuch as are Pick of the Plague in Summer, or are the hril taken with a diliolv ng Heat) fhould rather burn Sweet Cy¬ pres, Lignum Rhodium, Sanders, Sprigs of Ta- nurifk, Gum-tragacanth, Elemi, Cherry-tree Gum, and a litr e Camphire : l.ikewife thefe vapouring Perfumes fhould be of red Role-leaves, Li gnum Rhouium, and Sanders, wi.h Rofe-Vvater g6 Health’j Improvement. and Vinegar, boil’d together. So that accord in to the kind of taking, and theSeafon of the Year is the Air to be corrected in the time of Peftilence and not alike at all Times,'with one Perfume which Mcnjilius Ficinus , lib. de pefte. fo diligentl obferveth, that he blameth many Phyficians fo their general preferring of this or that Mahicatory foine extolling the chewing of Sage as one goe abroad, others the chewing of Setwall Roots others of Elicampana, Cloves, Angelica, or Ci tron-peel, which indeed are beft in a cold Seafon but in the hot time of the Year, and a hot Plague the chewing of Coriander-feeds, prepared Grains Sanders, and the Pulp of Oranges, Lemons, Ci trons, or Pearmains, is far to be preferred befor< them. The like may be faid of fweet Pomanders, ftronj of Mufk, Civet, Amber, and Storax, which an no doubt good Correctors of the peftilent Air; ye in hot Seafons and Peftilences, nothing fo good a the Smell of a Lemon ftickt with Lignum Rho¬ dium inftead of Cloves, and inwardly fluffed witf a Sponge throughly foaked in Vinegar of red Rofe; and Violets. But here a great Queftion arifeth, Whether fweet Smells correct the peftilent Air, or rather be as a Guide to bring it the fooner into our Hearts ! To determine which Queftion, I call all the Dwellers in Buckler/bury , in London , to give theii Sentence ; which only Street (by reafon that it ii wholly replenifhed with Phyfic, Drugs, and Spi cerv, and was daily perfumed in the time of the Plague, with pounding of Spices, melting o Gums, and making Perfumes for others) efcapec that great Plague brought from Newhaven, 3 whereoi Of A I R. 97 whereof there died fo many, that fcarce any Houfe was left unvifited. 21530 only in Lon - dcn y Anno 1563. Of Variety and Change of Air. Hitherto of the corre&ing and tempering of dif- temper’dand infe&ed Air; which being clean and purified, may yet, through Ignorance or Wilful- nefs, be abufed : For as Satyrus would needs kifs the glowing Coals, and Children delight to put their Fingers in the Candle; fo fome know not how to ufe this general Nourifhment, which is not given, as all other Nourifhments be, unto one par¬ ticular Man or Country, but equally and univerfally unto all. Now there be two forts of Air, as every Man knoweth ; the one open and wide unto all Men, the other private, fhut within the Compafs of a Houfe or Chamber: that permitted to any Man which is in Health ; this proper to very many and fickly Perfons, who receiving but the leaf! Blafl: of the outward Air, upon a fudden, fall into great Extremities, and make the recidival Sicknefs to be worfe than the former. Man/, and amongft them my Lord Rich's Brother, can juftif/ this, who almoft recovered of the Small Pox, looked but out of a Cafement, and prefently was firiken with Death. So likewife one Harwood of Suffolk , a rich Clothier, coming fuddenly, in an extreme I roll:, from a very hot Fire into the cold Air, his Blood was prefently fo corrupted, that he became a Leper; which is an ordinary Cauie of the fame Difeafe in high Germany , as Paracelfus and many other Writers have truly noted. E Again, 98 Health’j Improvement. Again, fume Men tie themfelves fo to one Air,*" that it they go but a Mile from home, like to frefh- water Soldiers, they are prefently Tick ; others are fo delighted with Variety, that no one Air or Country can contain them : of which Humour" was Ageftlaus , Pbocion , Diogenes, Cato, yea, and. Socrates himfelf, who fometimes lay abroad in the Fields, fometimes at home, fometimes travelled one Country, and fometimes another, that being accudomed to all Airs, they might, if Neceflity ferved, the better abide all. Furthermore, in long Difeafes, it is not the word, but the bed Phyiic to change Airs ; which few can endure that are tied in Conceit or by Cudom only to one, and therefore that, of both fantadical Humours, is the mod dangerous. Beftdes this, the Time of go¬ ing abroad in the open Air is to be confidered ; Jor fome go out early, before the Dev/ be off, and the Sun up, which is very unwholefome $ others alfo walk at Night after the Dew falling, which is as peiilous: for the Dew to Man’s Body is as Rud unto Iron, in fo much that it bladeth the Face, and maketh it fcabbv, efpecially in fome * Months, if a Man do wafh himfelf with it. Furthermore fome Men delight to travel in Tempeds and Winds, which the very Hedge-hog reproveth, and the Beads of the Fields efchew by feeking Coverture: for drong and violent Winds be,. as Cardan calls them, the Whales of the Air ; rolling Clouds and Meteors where and whhher . the . .id, beating down Trees, Houfes and Cadies, yea, lhaicing other ' hiles the Earth’s f oundation. No as fome go abroad too much, fo others with over-\ : 's take ' he open Air too little, fitting horn, a.-w ciamo’d Capons in a clofe Room, and Of A I II. 9g ^nd not daring in a manner to behold the Light; better it were by degrees to go abroad, than with fuch Certainty of Danger to {lay at home ; yet fo that a calm, mild, and temperate Day be chofen, left we make more hafte outward than good fpeed, .and bewail the Alteration of Air through Decreafe of Health : For as contrariety of Meats make Tu¬ mults and Rebellions in our Stomachs, fo contrary Changes of Air, upon the fudden, maketh dan¬ gerous Combats in our Bodies : Yea, tho’ a fenny Air be thick and loathfome ; yet fuddenly to e.o dwell upon the high Mountains in a clear Air, is a polling to Death rather than a Courfe of Life: And albeit a fuuthcrn Country be pregnant of Corruption, (for all Trees lofe their Leaves firft on the South-fide, and on the South-fide Houles decay fooneft, and the South-fide of Corn is foon- eft blafted, and Malt lying in the South-fide of a Granary is firft tainted with Weevels) yet fud¬ denly to depart to a northern Soil, where the North Wind chiefly bloweth, is to leave the Sea to be frozen in Ice, and bringeth imminent Peril, if not hafty Death to the Patient, yea, to them that are otherwife found of Body : Wherefore ufe the open Air in his due Time, Seafon, Quantity, and Order, elfe fnalt thou be offended with that Nouriftiment which fimply of all other is moft ne- :eflary ; for as this inviflble Milk (for fo Severi- 1US calls the Air) in Time, Seafon, and Quanti- v, nourifheth thefe lower, and perhaps the upper Bodies ; fo being taken out of time, and longer, md leffer than we fhould, it is both the Child, he Mother, and the Nurfe of infinite Mifchiefs. E 2 CHAP. i ioo Health’* Improvement. CHAP. V. Of MEATS, And the Differences thereof in Kind , Sub- fiance, Temperature , and Tafts. 'pUrpofing now to treat of Meats, I will keep this Method. Firft, I will (hew their Dif¬ ferences ; then the particular Natures of every one of them : laft of all, in what Variety, Quan¬ tity, and Order they are to be eaten. Their Dif¬ ferences be fpecially feven in Number; Kind , Subfiance, Temperature , Tafle , Preparation , Age, and Sex. i. Concerning the firft, It is either of vege¬ table Things only by Ordination, or of fenfible Creatures by Permiflion: For whilft Adam and his Wife were in Paradife, he had Commiftion to eat only of the Fruit of the Garden; being caft thence, he was enjoined to till the Ground, and fed in the Sweat of his Brows upon Worts, Corn, Pulfe and Roots; but as for Flefti, how- beit manyBeafts were flain for Sacrifices and Ap¬ parel, yet none was eaten of Men 2240 Years after the Creation ; even till God himfelf per¬ mitted Noah and his Family to feed of every fenfible Thing that moved and lived, as well as of Fruits and green Herbs. Nay, the Indian Philofophers, called Brach- rnans , did never, a great while after the Flood, tafte Of MEATS. , ioi tade of any fenfible Creature : And tho’ Nimrod the great Hunter flew many Beads, yet Flefli was even then untafted of the Babylonians , and many hundred Years after, faith Herodotus. And veri¬ ly, till God would have it fo, who dared to touch with his Lips the Remnant of a dead Carcafe ? or to fet the Prey of a Wolf, and the Meat of a Falcon upon his Table ? Who, I far, durft feed upon thofe Members which lately did fee, go, bleat, low, feel, and move ? Nay, tell me, can civil and human Eyes yet abide the Slaughter of an innocent Bead, the cutting of his Throat, the mauling him on the Head, the flaying off his Skin, the quartering and difmembering of his Joints, the fprinkling of Blood, the ripping up of his Veins, the enduring of ill Savours, the hear¬ ing of heavy Sighs, Sobs and Groans, the paflio- nate druggling and panting for Life, which only hard-hearted Butchers can endure to fee ? Is not the Earth fufficient to give us Meat, bi t that we mud alfo rend up the Bowels of Beads, Birds, and Fifties? Yes, truly there is enough in the Earth to give us Meat, yea verily and choice of Meats, needing either none or no great Prepara¬ tion, which we may take without Fear, and cut down without Trembling, which alfo we may mingle a hundred ways to delight our Tade, and feed on fafely to fill our Bellies. Neverthelefs we mud not imagine, that God either idly or radily permitted Flefh and Fifh to be eaten of Mankind, but that either he did it for Caufes known to himfelf, or for fpecial Favours flhewed to us. Plutarch writeth, Symp. 8. cap. 8. that Hens i Eggs in Egypt do hatch themfelves in the warm iun, and that wild Conies breed every Month ; E 3 fe 102 Health’j Improvement. fo that albeit by their Rites of Religion, the Egyp¬ tians were forbidden to eat Eggs, or to kill for Meat any living Creature, yet Neceffity caufed them to eat both, left their Corn ftiould be de¬ voured both in Seed and Blade, or they forced to do nothing elfe but to bury young Rabbits, and to v fquafh Esgs. Pei haps upon Forefightof the like Inconvenience, God appointed Men to eat Flefh and Fifn ; left haply overflowing the Earth by daily Increafe, there would fcarce be any Food left for Man, and Man fhould not be able to rule his Subjects. But the chiefeft thing which he aimed at in the Permiflion, was, in my Judgment, the Health and Preftrvation of our Lives: for as before the Flood Men were of {Longer Conftitu- tjcn, and vegetable Fruits grew void of fuperflu- cus Moifture; fo by the Flood thefewere endued w ith weaker Nourifhment, and M-en made more fubjeift to violent Difeafes and Infirmities. Where¬ upon it was requifite or rather neceflary fuch Meat ihouldbe appointed for human Nourifliment,as was in Subftance and Eflence mod like our own, and might, with lefs Lofs and Labour of natural Heat, be converted and tranfubftantiated into our Flefti.. And trulv whofoever {hall, with the Adamites , re- fufe that Diet, which God and Nature hath ap¬ pointed, either becaufe they think they {hould not, or becaufe they would not feed upon living Crea¬ tures : I dare boldly avouch, they are religious without Knowledge, and timorous without Occa- fion ; yea,* (unlefs naturally they abhor Fifh and Flefh, as fome Men may) they fhorten their own Lives, and do Violence to Nature. Of MEATS. How Meats differ in Subftance s. 2. Touching the Difference of Meats in Sub¬ ftance : Some are of thin and light Subftance, engendering pure, thin and fme Blood, fit for fine Complexions, idle Citizens, tender Perfons, and fiich as are upon Recovery out of fome great Sick- nefs; as Chicken-peepers, Rabbit-fuckers, young Pheafants, Partridges, Heath-pouts, Godwits, all fmall Birds being young,all little Fifhes of the River, the Wings and Livers of Hens, Cock-chickens and Partridges, Eggs warm out of the Hen’s Belly, &c. Others are more grofs, tough and hard, agreeing chiefling to Country Perfons and hard Labourers ; but fecondarily to all that be ftrong of Nature, given, by Trade or Ufe, to much Exercife, and accuftomed to feed upon them ; as pouder’d Beef, Bacon, Goofe, Swan, fait Filh, Ling, Tunny, fait Salmon, Cucumbers, Turneps, Beans, hard Peafe, hard Cheefe, brown and Rye Bread, &c. But Meats of a middle Subftance are generally the beft, and moft properly to be called Meats, en¬ gendering neither too fine nor too grofs Blood, agreeing in a manner with all Ages, Times and Complexions, neither binding nor loofening the Body, neither (Lengthening nor weakening the Stomach, neither procuring nor hindering Urine or Sweat, cauhng no Alteration in Coldnefs. Heat, Drynefs, or Moillure ; finally, neither adding to the Body by overnourifiiing, nor de¬ tracting from it by extenuating, but preferving it in fuch State as they found it, reftoring daily as much as daily decay’d, and nothing or very little E 4 more. 104 Health’.? Improvement. more. Of which fort may be reckoned young Beef, Mutton, Veal, Kid, Lamb, Pig, Hen, Capon, Turkey, Houfe-doves, Cunny, fodden Lettice, Skirrets, Almonds, Raillns, &c. I How Meats differ in Temperature and Dijiemperature, 3. As there is a certain Temperature and Dif- temperature of our Bodies, fo likewife is there in Meats; that temperate Bodies fliould feed of their likes, and d‘({tempered of their contraries. Where¬ fore God hath appointed fome Meats hot only in the firft Degrees, &c. Lamb Hot Meats, Sugar Pork Raifms Pig Sweet Apples Gofling Ripe Pomegranates Partridge New HafleNuts Quail New Almonds Thrufh Afparagus Sturgeon Borrage Mullet Bur Roots Bafe Skirret Roots O) Iters White Thiftle Roots Cockles Hop Buds Cream Parfeneps Butter Wheat, and Figs Rice. Others in the fecond Degree ; as. Hare T urkey Roe Buck Peacock Pid geon Of M E Pidgeon Duck T urtle Pickled Oyfters Anchovies Hony Ripe Mulberries New Walnuts Pickled Olives Preferved Capers !l T S. -toi Piftachoes Dates Chefnuts Artichokes Carrots Pottatoes Parfley Radifh Roots Eryngo Roots Nutmegs and Saffron, Some *bot Scallops Mint Taragon Onions Leeks third Degree ; as Alexanders Old Walnuts Cinnamon Ginger Cloves, and Pepper in the Some are hot in the fourth Degree ; as Skallions, Garlic, and Ramfons. Now whereas all Meats hot further than the fecond Degree, are reckoned by Phyficians to be rather Medicine than Meat, I allow their Judg¬ ment for the moft fort or Men, but not generally in all; for in Scythia , and fome parts of Perfia , as alfo in Scotland and Wales , many Mens Bodies and Stomachs are fo full of cold, and raw Phlegm, that Leeks, Onions, Water-crefTes and Garlic, is made a Nourifhment unto them, which would gripe, fret, and blifter temperate Stomachs. The like Reafon may be given, why Adders are com¬ monly eaten of the People called Ophiophagt\ and venomous Spiders of many in Egypt. Yea, my felf have known a young Maid, of an exceeding E 5 moitb io6 Health’j Improvement. moift and cold Complexion, whofe Meat for two Fears was chiefly Pepper, wherewith another would have been confumed, tho’ (he was nourfh- ed : for it is hot in the third, and dry in the • fourth Degree. Cold Meats. Of cold Meats, God hath likewife appointed fome of the firft Degree ; as Cow Flefh Bteer Flefh hogs Lumps Olafes Frefh Tunny Frefh Sprats Frefh Herrings Curds All forts of Pompions Melons Cherries Young Hedge- Eels Cunny Rabbit Strawberries Peaches Some Apples Pears Quinces Medlars Cervices Sp nache Succory Sorrel Goofeberries Cabbage Coleworts Peafe and Beans Others cold in the fecond Degree-, as T ench Pike Shrimps Crabs Crevifies New Cheefe Prunes Damfons Apricocks, and moft forts of Plums Lettice Endif Citrons Oranges Lemons Gourds and Cucumbers What- Of MEATS. 107 Whatfoever exceedeth this Degree in Coldnefs can never be turned into our Nourifhment; how- foever Tome one Body, by a proper Sympathy, or or long IJfage, (as Dr. Randal did), may digeft and nourifli himfelf with Poppy Medicines. Moifi Meat s. Meats moift: in the firft Degree, are thefe and fuch like, Wild Boar Dates Lamprey Afparagus Barbie Spinache Crab Borrage Shrimps Hop Buds Crevifs Carrots Pine-apple Kernels Turneps New Filberds and Sweet Almonds French Peafe. Meats inofi in the fecond Degree , Hedge-buck Olaffe Turkey Tunny Young Pidgeons T ench Young Ducks Eel Young Quails Frefh Oyfters Frefh Sturgeon Ruen-Cheefe Lump Meats moifi in the third Degree are only Frefh Pork and Young Pigs, E 6 Dry io8 Health** Improvement. Dry Meats. Neither hath Nature omitted to provide dry Meats for them, who by Nature or Sicknefs are over-moiftened ; whereof fome are dry only in the firft Degree.; as Peacock Fennel Heathcock Artichokes Dorry, and Coleworts All frefh Fifli lightly Raddifh pouder’d Saffron Strawberries and Sour Fruit Cheefe-Curds through!} Medlars prefs’d. Others in the [econd Degree as Ox Beef Galangals Venifon Pears Hare Quinces Cunny Sou re Pomegranates Partridge Pickled Olives Turtle Piftachoes Thrufh Chefnuts Black Birds Succory Mullets Sorrel Crabs Parfly Periwinkles Onions Cockles Leeks Honey Lemons Cinnamon Citrons Nutmegs Beans and Rice Ginger Others i N Of MEATS. 109 Others in the third Degree ; as Flefliand Fifhlongfalted Stock Fifh Old Cheefe Pouder’d Capers Cervifles Mint Garlic Ramfons Scallions Water Crefles Cloves and Cinnamon Others in the fourth Degree ; as Pepper, and all Things by Mifcookery over¬ peppered. Temperate Meats. Temperate Meats are fuch, as hardly can be lifcerned to be either hot, cold, dry, or moift ; »r if they can, yet do they never exceed, yea, :arcely attain the firft Degree. Of which fort, young Poulet, a crowing Cockrel, a grown Japon, Soles and Perches, fine Wheat, new rid Eggs (eat White and all) being potcht, and 11 fmall Birds being young, are to be accounted. How Meats differ in Tafte . 4. Being now come to the fourth Difference of Ieats, which confifteth in Tafte, it is necelfary > fhew how many kinds of Taftes be found in !ourifhments, whereof fome be abominable to ^rtain Perfons, tho’ good and pleafant in Na- irc; others contrarily defired and liked, tho’ na- TTally not appointed for Meat; which if you call fympathetical and antipathetical Tafte, or an t-born_tafting or diftafting, it will not be amifs y I io Health’; Improvement. for tho’ the Words feem ftrange and hard at the ftrft, yet Time and Wearing will make them eafy and common. What is more unpleafant to moft Mens Natures than the Tafte of human Flefh ? vet not only fome Women with Child have long¬ ed for it, but alfo the whole Nation of Cannibal 1 account it the fweeteft Meat of all others. It i; alfo recorded, that Nero's great Gourmand, thought no Meat pleafant but raw Flefh. Fer- tnius Saleucius loved the Sea-horfes fo exceedingly, that he daily dived for them amongft the Croco¬ diles of Nilus, venturing his Life tofave his Long ing. Plato thought that Olives had the beft Tafte Meccznas coveted the Flefh of Afies Foals,whereb; the whole Race of Afles had been extinguifhed but that he died in a good Hour. The German once, and now the Tartars , reckon Horfe-flef for the fweeteft and beft Meats, even as our Welch men efteem of Cheefe, Lane afair e Men of Egg Pies, and Devonjhire Men of a brown White-poi What need I write of Achilles , who in his Non age living with Chiron, defired moft to feed upo Lions Livers ? or of the Vandals, who long aftt Foxes? or the Zygantes in Africa, that covi Monkies and Apes, no lefs than the Car mania) love Tortoifes, the Weft Africans Lizards, tl Egyptians Grafshoppers, the Candians Serpent the Corf cans and Maltefe young Whelps, tl Romans and Phrygians Timber-worms, the AIL mans Mites and Magots of Cheefe, and fuch filtl Meats. Yea, if Herodotus and Sabellicus write Truth, the Budanes defire to feed on Lice, whi< a Mufcovite abhors to kill, left unnaturally or u: wittingly he might flay his own Flefh and Bloo It were ftrange to believe, yet Fernelius writ it for a Truth, how a Nobleman of France foui Of M E A T S. 11/ |» greater Sweetnefs in Quick-lime than in any Meat befides, refrefhing his Stomach, and hurting no inward Part with the continual Ufe thereof. Others feed greedily upon Rags of Woolen Cloth md Wall Mortar. And Amatus Lufitanus rc- nembereth a certain young Maid of 12 Years of Age, who did ufually eat Stones, Earth, Sand, □talk, Wool, Cotton and Flax; efteeming their Fafte and Subftance better than that of the fineft md tendered Partridge. Marcellus Donatus faw 1 Girl fo longing after Lizards and Neuts, that he would hunt after the one in Gardens, and af- ;er the other with a Bough in her Hand, as a Cat would hunt a Moufe, and eat them without Hurt. Albert us Magnus , as Callus reporteth, faw an¬ other Wench in Cologn, but three Years old, punting as diligently after all forts of Spiders, with which Meat (he was not only much delighted, but l ilfo exceedingly nourifhed. Yea, Dr. Oethaus .:elleth a Story of a certain Farmer in the County pf Hirjberg , that feedeth chiefly upon Potfheards finely beaten, and battling no lefswith them than Mariners do with eating Bifket. And Joachimus Camerarlus (my dear and learned Friend) report- ?th, that a certain Girl of Noremberg did eat up ter own Hair, and as much as elfewhere fhe :ould get ; neither could fhe be perfuaded by her friends to think it unpleafant or unwholfomeMeat, pontrariwife, Petrus Aponenfts loathed Milk. The inhabitants of the new frilling Land abhor Oil: Many Men cannot abide the Tafte of Cheefe, Dthers of Flefh, others of Fifh, others of all forts )f Fruit; and that Bartimew Marnta his Father vas almoft dead of Hares 1 lefh in a Gallimawfery, s not unknown to Phyficians. Nay, fome are naturally, 112 HealthV Improvement. i naturally, or by Imagination, fo perverted, that they cannot abide the Sight of many Meats, and much lefs the Tafte. What Soldier knoweth not that a roafted Pig would affright Capt. Swan more than the Sight of twenty Spaniards f What J Lawyer hath not heard of Mr. Tanfiels Conceit, who is feared as much with a dead Deck, as Philip of Spain was with a living Drake ? 1 will not tell what Ph/fician abhorreth the Sight of Lampreys and the Tafte of hot Venifon, tho’ he love cold ; nor remember a Gentleman who can¬ not abide the Tafte of a Rabbit, fince he was ] once (by a Train) beguiled with a young Cat.] . Nay, which was more, all Meat was of an abo- minable Tafte to Heliogabalus , if it were not far fetcht, and very dearly bought; even as fome li- quorifh Mouths cannot drink without Sugar, nor Sinardus’s hot Stomach could brook Wine without Snow ; which dainty and foolifh Conceit, tho’ it picks a Quarrel with God and Reafon, (after the nice Fineneft of courtly Dames, that abhor the beft Meat which is brought in an earthen Difh) and maketh Ulcers as it were in found Stomachs ; yet I that there is a natural liking and difliking of Meats, and confequently of theTaftes of Meats', both the Examples of Men and Women before named do juftly prove ; and even Spaniels and Hounds themfelves, (I mean of the truer kind) by refufing of Venifon and wild Fowl in the cold Blood, can fufficiently demonftrate. Me ats Of MEATS, i *3 Meats of ordinary Tajles, Now let us come to the ordinary Taftes of vleats, which are efpecially feven in Number ; wveety bitter , /harp , four, fatty , fait , and fia/h . SWtf Meats. Sweet Meats agree well with Nature, for they re of a temperate Heat, and therefore fitteft for Jouriftiment; they delight the Stomach and Liver, fatten the Body, increafe natural Heat, 11 the Veins, digeft eafily, foften that which is 50 hard, and thicken that which is too liquid j ut if they be over fweet and gluttifh, they foon am into Choler, flop the Liver, puff up Lungs nd Spleen, fwell the Stomach, and caufe often- mes moft fharp and cruel Fevers. Bitter Meats. - If any thing be very bitter (as Afparagus, Hop- jrouts, and Broom-buds) they cannot much nou- ifh either Man or Beaft, unlels they have firft een boiled or infufed in many Waters; for other- dfe they may ingender, as they do, fome cho- :ric Humours, burning Blood, killing Worms, pening Obftru&ions, and mundifying unclean 'affages of the Body ; but their Nourifhment aey give is either little or nothing, and that only erived to fome fpecial Part. > Sharp 114 H ealth’j Improvement. Sharp Meats. Sharp Meats, (as Onions, Skallions, Leek Garlic, Radilh, Muftard-feed, Crelles, and h Spices) dry the Body exceedingly, being a!' hurtful to the Eyes and Liver, drawing down H 1 mours, fending up Vapours, inflaming the Bloo ! fretting the Guts, and extenuating the whc Body; wherefore wc rauft either tafte them they are, or not feed upon them till their Sharpm be laid with Wafhings, Infufions, Boilings, ai Intermixtions of fweet Things. Sour Meats. > • • I Sour Meats (as Sorrel, Lemons, Oranges, C trons, four Fruit, and all things ftrong of Vin gar and Verjuice) albeit naturally they offend newy Parts, weaken Conco&ion, cool natu; Heat, make the Body lean, and haften old Ag< yet they pleafure and profit us many ways, cutting Phlegm, opening Obftru&ions, cleanfii Impurities, bridling Choler, refilling Putrefadlio extinguilhing fuperfluous Heat, Haying Loathfor nefs of Stomach, and procuring Appetite : But they be four without Sharpnefs (as a roalled Quin< a Warden, Cervifes, Medlars, and fuch lik then they furthermore flrengthen the Stomac bind and corroborate the Liver, Hay Fluxes, h< Ulcers, and give an indifferent Nourilhment them that eat them. Salt Meats. Saltifhnefs is thought to be an unnatural Tal becaufe it is found in no living Thing : For 1 V' 0/ AIR. 115 ery Fifties are frefli; fo likewife is all Flefli, and /ery Fruit, and all Herbs which grow not where le Sea may waftiupon them. Wherefore, how- oever Salt hath the Term of Divinity in Ho~ her, and Plato calleth it Jupiter's Minion, and le Athenians have built a Temple to Neptune and 'eres, becaufe even the fineft Cakes be unwhol- -|>m and unpleafant if they be not feafoned with alt; yet I hold it to be true, that fait Meats, in lat they are fait, nourifh little or nothing, but ither accidentally in procuring Appetite,ilrength- ing the Stomach, and giving it a touch of extra- rdinary Heat, as I will more perfe&ly prove when treat of Sauces. . For fait Meats, efpecially if ley be hot of Salt, ingender Choler, dry up na- nal Moiftures, inflame Blood, flop the Veins, ather together vifeous and crude Humours, arden the Stone, make Sharpnefs of Urine, and mfe Leannefs; I fpeak only of the accidental alt wherewith we eat all Meats, and not of that lborn Salt which is in all things. Fat Meats. Fattinefs is fenfibly found not only in Flefli nd Fifh of every fort,but alfo in Olives, Cocoa’s, almonds, Nuts, Piftachoes, and infinite Fruits nd Herbs that give Nourifhment: yea, in Ser- ents. Snails, Frogs, and Timber-worms it is to e found; as tho’ Nature had implanted it in very thing which is or may be eaten of Man- ind. And verily as too much Fattinefs of Meats lutteth the Stomach, decayeth Appetite, caufeth lelchings, Loathings, Vomitings, and Scourings, hoaketh the Pores, digefteth hardly, and nou- ifheth fparingly j fo if it be too lean and dry on ii6 Health’j Improvement. the contrary Side, (for a Mean is beft of all) it is far worfe, and nourifheth the Body no more than a Piece of unbutter’d Stock-fifh. Unfavoury or TJnreliJhed Meats. Flafhinefs or Infipidity ( which fome call a maukifh or fenfelefs Tafte) tailing juft of nothing as in Water, the White of an Egg, Melons, Pompions, and Pears, Apples, Berries, and Plums of no Relifh, is of no Tafte, but a Deprivation or Want of all other Taftes befides} which be it found in any thing that is dry, as in Spices* or in things naturally moift, as in Fifh, Flefh, or Fruit, it always argueth an ordinary Wcaknefs in Nouriftiment, howfoever extraordinarily, (I will not fay unnaturally) it may ftrongly nourifh fome. Avian faith truly in his Canons , lib. 2. uodfapit , nutrit j That which relijheth , nourijh- eth : yet not fo, but that unfavoury things nourifh likewife, tho’ not abundantly nor fpeedily : For what is more unfavoury than frefh Water, where¬ with many Fifties are only nourifhed ? What fo void of Relifh as the White of an Egg ? Yet is it to aguifh Perfons more nourifhing than the Yolk: yea, and Stock-fifh will ingender as good Humours in a rheumatic Perfon, as the beft Pig or Veal that can be brought him. t- CHAP. Of M E A T S. ii 7 C H A P„ VI. Of M E A T S, low they differ in Preparation , Age and Sex . PHE Preparation of Meats is threefold ; one before the killing or drefling of them, an¬ ther in the killing or drefling, and the third after oth. Of which Art ‘Timochides Rhodius wrote [even Books in Verfe, and Numenius Heracletus 9 cholar to Dieuches that learned Phvftcian, and *itaneus Parcdus , and Hegemon Phafius , compiled lfo divers Treatifes of that Argument; which ither the Teeth of Time, or Stomach of Envy laving confumed, I muft write of this Argu- nent according to mine own Knowledge and Col- edlions. Whether an Iron Ladle hinders Peafe and Rice rom Teething ? Whether roaft Meat be beft, md Deft tafted, larded, barded, fcorch’d or baft- id? Beafts kill’d at one Blow are tendered and moft wholefome? Why all Broth is beft hot, all Drink beft cold ? Some Filh, Flefh, and Fruits, never good but cold ; fome never good when they are cold and yet we have all but one Inftrument oi tailing ? Of fatting of Meats. Lean Meat, as it is unwholefom ', fo it feemed alio unfavour) in ancien imes ; ;n fo much that Quintus Curtius being Sewer at CafaP s Fable, feeing i n8 Health’.* Improvement. feeing aDifh of lean Birds to be fet at the Tabl< was not afraid to hurl them out at the Window Alfo thePriefts of Ij'rael , yea, the Heathen Priefi alfo of Rome and Egypt touched no lean Flefh becaufe it is impeded till it be fat,and fitter to feec Hawks and Vultures, than either to be eaten o Men, or confumed in Sacrifice to holy Ufes Hereupon came a Trial how to fatten Flefh an< Fifh, yea, Snails and Tortoifes, as Macrobiu writeth, by feeding them with filling and forcec Meats ; carting not only Livers and Garbage int( Fifh-ponds, but alfo their Slaves to feed thei; Pikes, as did Vidius Pollio , and to make therr more fat and fweet than ordinary. Hence alfi came it that Swine were fattened with Whey anc Figs, and that Servilius Rullus devifed how tc make Brawn, and that the Egyptians invented the fatting of Geefe, becaufe it was ever one Difh at their King’s Table. Amongft the Romans it was a Queftion who firrt taught the Art of fattening Geefe, fome imputing it to Scipio Metellus , others to Marcus Sejlius ; but, without contradidion, Marcus Aujidius Lucro taught firrt how to cram and fatten Peacocks, gaining by it threefcore thoufand Serterces, which amounteth to 3000000 /. of our Money. Cranes and Swans were fatted in Rome with Ox-blooJ, Milk, Oat-meal, Barley, Curds and Chalk, mingled (to ufe Plutarch's Phrafe) into a mon- firous Meat, wherewithal they were cram’d in dark Places, or elfe their Eyes were ftitch’d up; by which means their Flefh proved both tenderer, fweeter, whiter, and alfo .(as it is fuppofed) far wholefomer. Hens, Capons, Cockrels, and T inches, were fattened by them of Delia , with Bread ileep’d in Milk, and feeding in a dark and .•••- . narrow 3 Of M E A T S. 119 arrow Place, that want of Scope and Light might aufe them to fleep and fit much, which of itfelf rocureth Fatnefs. In Vary o' s time Men did not only fatten Conies 1 Clappers, but alfo Hares, and made them, of melancholic, a moft white and pleafant Meat, ccording to that of Martial ; Inter aves princeps pinguis (me judice) turdus , Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus . Amongft the feather’d Knights, fat Thrufhesdo excel, Amongft four-footed Squires, the Hare deferves the Bell. But here the Queftion may be moved, Whe- ler this penning up of Birds, and want of Exer- ife, and depriving them of Light, and cramming lem fo often with ftrange Meat, makes not their lefti unwholefome to us as well as fat ? To diich I anfwer, that to cramm Capons, or any iirds, and to deprive them of all Light, is ill for lem and us too: For tho’ their Body be puffed p, yet their Flefti is not natural and wholefome ; ritnefs their fmall difcoloured and rotten Livers j /hereasHens and Capons feeding themfelves in an pen and clean Place with good Corn, have large, uddy and firm Livers. So great is the Diverlity etwixt a cramm’d, I may fay a ftrangled and cap- ive Capon, and betwixt a Gentleman-Capon ;eding h*mielf fat without Art. Wherefore the 'eft fattening of all Fowl, is, Firft, to feed them vith good Meat; for like F'ood, like Flefti. secondly , To give it them not continually, as ■^rammers do, forcing one Gobbet after another, till 120 HealthV Improvement. till they he fully gorg’d, but as often as they them felves deiire it, that Nature be not urged abov< her Strength j not in a Coop or clofe Room, fo then the Air'and themfelves will fmell of thei : own Dung, but in a clean Houfe fpacious enougl for their little Exercife; not in a dark Place, o Hitching up their Eyes, for that will caufe then to be timorous, or ever fleepy ; both which an Enemies to their Bodies, and confequently to ours for every Man knows that Fear marreth Concoc¬ tion, and Sleepinefs bereaving us of Exercife, anc hindereth Digeftion. Yea, young Pidgeons, whilf they are in the NeH, be they never fo fat, ar< reckoned but an unwholfome Meat; but wher they follow and fly a little after the Dam, ther are they of great and good Nourifhment. The like may be faid of the fatting of Beafls, for they are not to be Hied or Hailed fo clofe that they cannot Hir, but to have fufficient Room for to walk in, as well as to feed in, that they may be wholefome as well as fat, and not corrupt our Bodies with their own Corruption: So likewife Fifh kept in great Ponds where they may rove at pleafure, are better than fuch as be mewed in a narrow and fhallow Ditch ; which not only we fliall find by inward Digeflion, but alfo by out¬ ward tafling: yea, look what Difference there is betwixt tame and wild Cunnies, betwixt Deer fed by hand, and Deer fattening themfelves in the Chafe and Copies; the like fhall you perceive be¬ twixt forced Fatnefs, and Fatnefs acquired by na¬ tural and gond Diet. Another thing alfo is to be obferved before the killing of any Beafl or Bird, namely, how to make it tenderer if it be too old, and how to make it of the beft Relifli. Patrocles affirmed, that a Lion being Of M E A T S. J2l being (hewed to a drong Bull three or four Hours before he be killed, caufeth his Flefli to be as ten¬ der as the Flefh of a Steer ; Fear diffolving his harded Parts, and making his very Heart to become pulpy. Perhaps upon the like Reafon we ufe to bait our Bulls before we kill them ; for their Blood' is otherwife fo hard, that none can diged it in the Flefh; but afterwards it is fo far from being poi- fonable, that it becometh tender and nourifhing Food. Perhaps alfo for this Caufe old Cocks are courfed with little Wands from one another, or elfe forced to fight with their Betters before they are killed. Perhaps alfo for thefe Caufes, fo much filthy Dung is brought from common Ledals into great Gardens, namely, to caufe Roots and Herbs to be fatter and tenderer than they would be 5 which Intent I do not difallow, only I wi(h that no other Soil were ufed than what proceeded from the Earth, or from brute Beads. Concerning the Manner of killing, it is divers m divers Countries. The Grecians ftrangled their Swine, and did eat them with their Blood. The Remans thrud them through the Body witli a Spit red hot, whereby Death enfuing without cooling and voiding of Blood, the Flefh feemed far more fweet and tender : But if a Sow were ready to farrow, they trampled upon her Belly bruifing her Pigs, and the Kernels of her Dues with the Milk and Blood at once, eating them for the mod delicate Meat, as fome delight in the Bruife or Pudding of the Deer. Plutarch alfo avoucheth, that Sheep kill’d by Wolves, Birds by Hawks, Geefe by Foxes, iaies or Deer by Greyhounds, eat much fweeter, kindlier and tenderer than if they be killed hidden - - b y ^>S ht or Violence. Yea, I have heard of 122 H ealthV Improvement. a Lady in England , that let a Score of Partridges be brought unto her, fome killed by the Hawks, others at the Foot of Dogs, others by Men', fhe will difcern that which the Hawk killed at fowce from all the reft, having tailed but one Morfel. Furthermore as there is a Reafon of cutting down Wood for Timber, namely in the prime of the Moon, or about the laft Quarter, and a fpecial good Seafon of moulding Bread, and lay¬ ing of Leavens (this before the Full of the Moon, that in the Full itfelf) fo there is like wife a Seafon to kill Beafts, Birds and Fifties, and to eat the Fruits of Gardens and Orchards: For Experience teacheth, that Hens are beft in January ; Eggs in February ; Lamb, Kid, Pidgeons and Veal in. March ; Herbs in April ; Cockles in May j Bucks and Salmon in June , July , and Augujl ; Gurnards in September ; Oyfters in all Months in whofe Name an R is found ; Pork, Bacon, and Cabbage in frofty Weather, &c. Nay further, ’tis to be confidered, whether a Deer be ftruck ftone dead at a Blow, tho’ he be in Seafon, or fuffered to die languiftiing upon his Hurt; for his Skin, be it never fo well drefs’d, will foon Ihed his Hair, and wax worm-eaten if it languifh, whereas otherwife it will hardly cor¬ rupt at all in a long Seafon : wherefore no other Reafon can be given, than that by the one Way natural Heat is inwardly reftrained, and by the other Way of killing outwardly expired. So like- wife there are Seafons for gathering of Fruit, Herbs, Flowers, Seeds and Roots, which, who¬ mever obferveth not carefully and diligently, he may feeth Bones for Flefti, and, to fpeak more properly, Stalks for Letticc. For all things have their fcveral T imes, and there is a Seafon ioi each Piupofe Of M E A T S. 123 Purpofe under Heaven; Eccl. viii. A time t%plant y and a time to pluck up ; a tune to kill , and a time to preferve. The laft Preparation is after the killing of fen- fible Creatures, or the gathering of fuch as are only vegetable : all which Preparations are divided into five principal Actions, garbelling, boiling roafting, baking, and frying. Garbelling is & a taking away of all things from any Creatures which are accounted either hurtful or unneceflary ; as the flaying of Beafts, pulling and Raiding of Fowls, garbaging of all things that have Corrup¬ tion in their Bellies, voiding of Piths, Cores, Rinds, and Stones in Roots, Apples and Plums, For albeit the firft Cooks were fo unfkilful, that they roafted Oxen Skin and all; yet Reafon after taught them to rejedl the Outwards, as they had upon juft Caufe emptied the Inwards. The other four Preparations are fo neceflary, that all things in a manner are fubjedl to them. What is raw Flefh till it be prepared, but an im- perfeft Lump ? for it is neither the Beaft it was, nor the Meat it Ihould be, till boiling, roafting, baking, or broiling, hath made it fit to be eaten af Men. Diocles being afked whether were the Jeft Fifh, a Pike or a Conger ? That, faith he, I ^ ^ be lodden ; "T his, if it be broil’d j but none | setter than another if they were raw: only Oyfters A all Fifh are good raw (yet he was no Coward 1 hat firft ventured on them) being called of Athe- ! f us Prologue of F eaft ; becaufe ever, as we ue them, they were eaten foremoft. Other Fifii icing eaten raw, is harder of Digeftion than raw eet ; for Diogenes died with eating of raw Fifh, nnd JVobner (our Englijh Pandereus) digefting Iron, Jiafs, and Oyfter-lheils, by eating a raw Eel 124 Health^ Improvement. was overmaftered. Nay, the Idbyopbagi them- fclves feeding only on Fifh, do fir ft either road them in the Sun, or prepare them with Fire be¬ fore they eat them, having Stomachs far hotter than ours, and confequently more proper to digeft them. As for raw Flefh (befides Butchers, Cooks, Poulterers, Slaughter-men, and Canibals) who dare almoft touch it with their Fingers ? much le(s dare any grind it with their Teeth ; no, not that Egyptian who was Nero's Gourmand. Now as Galen faith of Chefnuts, that being roafted in Embers, they are fweet and drying, being fodden in Broth they are fweet and moiften- ing, being roafted with their Hulk they eat deli¬ cately, being roafted without their Hulk they eat rank and fourifh, being fodden without their Hufk they prove unfavoury : fo may I fay of all other Meats whatfoever, that according to the kind of Preparation, they either keep, relinquifh or alter their Property. If hereupon you afk me, what Meats are beft boil’d, and what roafted ? I an- fwer that flafhy Meats and naturally moift, fhould be drefs’d with a dry Heat, (as in baking, broil¬ ing, frying, and roaftjng) and Meats naturally exceeding in Drynefs and Firmnefs fhould ever be boiled. Temperate Meats may be ufed any way, fo they be not abufed bv Mifcookery, which even Diocles knew many Years ago, faying (as before I noted out of Atbenaus) that a Pike is beft wher he is boil’d, and a Conger when he is broil’d ; be- caufe that is a firm and folid Fifb, this of a moift foft, and Eely Subftance. But for as much as ij my particular Difcourfes of feveral Meats, I pur pofe to touch their beft preparing, I will furceaf to fpeak any more generally of the drefling t Meats, cither before they are bereaved of Lile, t Of MEAT S. 125 in or after their Death : only this I conclude, that who feeth not a great D.fterence betwixt Meats kill’d in Seafon, and out of Seafon, betwixt raw Meat and parboil’d, betwixt fry’d Meats and bak’d Meats, fpiced and unfpiced, Halt and frefh ; betwixt Afparagus once wafh’d and twice wafh’d, betwixt Cabbages once and twice fodden, Gfc. is in my Judgment deprived of his Wits, or elfe over-wedded to his Will. For who is ignorant that Cabbages once fodden loofen the Belly, but twice fodden (I mean in feveral Waters) procure moft dangerous and great Coffivenefs ? Who knoweth not (as Galen affirmeth) that Afparagus often waflaed is a good Nourifhmcnt, but other- wifc fo bitter that it wholly purgeth ? What Sto¬ mach of any fuch Dulnefs, that being over-molft it confefles not Amendment after theUfe of fpiced, kilted, baked, and dry roafted Meats 5 and con- trariwife complaineth of Hurt by frefh, liquid, fodden and unfavoury Meats ? The Difference of Meats in Age and Sex. 6. Laft of all, Adeats differ in Age and Sex ; or the Flefh of Sucklings is moifteft, moft flip! >ery, excremental and vifcous; the Flefhes of old kafts are tough, lean, hard, dry and melancho- iC : Wainlings lefs hard and dry than the one, nd withal more firm, temperate, and nouriftiing ban the other. But generally they are beft for 10ft Complexions, when they are almoft come ? th f‘ r fall Growth both in Height, Length nd Bignefs: for then as their Temper is beft* > hkewife their Subftance is moft proportionable > our natural Moifture, which is neither fo hard . * 3 that ,26 Health’* Improvement. that it is unchangeable, nor fo thin and liquid that it is over eafily diffolved. . Concerning the Difference of Meats in hex, the Males of Bealls, Fifh and Fowl, are more if rone-, dry, and heavy of Digeftion, the females tweeter, moifter, and eafier to be concoaedD but yet Bealls, kerned Fowls, and barren r un, are counted of a middle and better Nature than them; as an Ox amongft Beads, a Capon among It Birds, and a Pike wounded in the Belly can well tcftify ; who therefore being unable to conceive swain, fattens abundantly, as Experience daily fhevveth in our London Fifh-ponds, and becometh a mod delicate Meat. Now are we come to the particular Natures of every Meat; and hr ft to them which are called by the Name of r kin, CHAP. VII. i. How many forts of Flejh there he. 2 Whether Flejh or Fifh were firft eaten oj ' end whether of them is the furefi and hej iV our ; foment. 1 T will feem d range perhaps unto fome, th we begin firft to treat of Fleih, which was oi of the lad Foods appointed unto Mankind by Voice of God. For (as before I touched) t o Years after the Flood, we read of no h or permitted to bef en .° Fmi, Ivt^arfioce the Flood they ate f«bjea,tj Of M EATS. 127 whilft Mens Stomachs were fo ftrongand perfect, that in a manner no Meat could overthrow them: and verily were the Sun of fuch Power with us, as it is in fouthern Countries towards the Equator, to ripen our Fruits throughly, and to take them as it^were upon the Tree ; no doubt, being freed from their Crudities and fuperfluous Moifture, they wou’d give as good Nourishment unto us, and perhaps far better, than any Fiefh. But now our Complexions waxing weaker, through Abun¬ dance of Sin and Riot, and our Climate being un¬ apt for wholefome and much nourifhing Fruits, let us give God Thanks for fforing us with Fiefh above all other Nations, making our Shambles the Wonder of Europe , yea, verily, rather of the whole World. Nov/ all the Fiefh we have is taken either from Beafts, or Birds, or Things creeping upon the Ground. T'he Difference of Fiefh, Of the firfF fort fome are tame; as the Bull He-Goat Cow She-G oat Ox Gelded Goat Calf Kid Ram Boar Ewe Sow Weather Hog Lamb Pig. Others wild ; as Venifon red and fallow Hares Wild Boar Cunnies Roe-bucks Hedgehogs and Squirreh F 4 Amongft 128 Health** Improvement Amongft tame unto us: Birds, thefe are moft familiar Cock Peacock Hen Goofe Capon Guiny Hens Chicken Duck, and 'i urkey Pidgeon. Amongft wild Fowl, fome keep and feed chiefly upon the Land ; as Buftard - V Jays Crane % Wood-peckers Heron {haws Stone-chatters Bitterns Thrufhes Stork Mavis Fbeafant Pel fares. Heath cock Black-birds Partridge Stares Plover Quails, and all forts of Lapwing little Birds ; as Cuckow Sparrows Pye Larks Crows Bulfinches Woodcocks Goldfinches Rails Thiftlefinches Red Shanks Citronfinches Gluts Bramblings Woodlnipes Linnets God wits Nightingales Smirings Buntings T urtles Wagtails Stock-doves Robin-redbreafts Rock-doves Wrens Pving-doves Witrolls Of M E A T & 129 Sifkins Titmice Oxeys Tidings Creepers Swallow 5 and Martlets* Others live in or Swan Bergander Barnicle Wild Geefe Wild Duck Teal Widgin Fly-duck Shovelars Cormorant Curtues Gulls Black Gulls upon the Water; as % Sea-mews Coots Water-rails Sea-pies Pufins Plovers Shell-drakes Moor-cocks Moor-hens Dob-chicks Water-crows Kings-filhers Water-fnipes. Of creeping Things, I know none but the Snail in our Country, which fome efteem not only for a Meat, but alfo for a Meat very refto- rative. And thus much of the kinds of Flefh. Now let us come, for Recreation’s-fake, to the Comparifon betwixt Fleih andFilh, which of them is the more ancient,pure and wholefomeMeat for Man’s Body ; whereat perhaps both Butchers and Fifh-mongers will be much pleafed, and per¬ haps no lefs offended : but I will write what I have read, and leave the Determination to others that can better judge. V j Whttlitr 130 Health’.? Improvement- Whether Flefh or Fijh he the more ancient, pure, and wholefome Meat. The Carthufian Monks to the preferring of Fifh before f lefh, ufe efpecially thefe Arguments: hirft, I hat Chrift did feed moft upon it; for we never read but once that he did eat Flefh ; but that he did often eat Fifh is proved by many Places, namely. Mat. xv. Lukev. 9. Markvi.8. “John vi. Furthermore he reftrained by Name no- kind of Fifh from the Jfra elites, but divers kinds of Flefh; which fheweth that Fifh is the cleaner, purer, and more holy Meat; for the Adlions of Chrift fhould be our Inftrudtion, and his Works our Imitation. Thus much faid Baldwin Arch- bifhop of Canterbury , of whom Rainulphres writ- eth this Story. When Baldwin was chofen Arch— bifhop of Canterbury , he fwore, that from the Time of his Inftalment to his Dying-day, he would never eat Flefh ; whereby his Body was fo decayed, that he fell into a Confumption. An old Woman meeting him on the Way, as he was carried in an open Horfe-litter,, called him Xdar to his h ace : whereof being reproved by feme of his Followers, Why, faid file, do you rebuke me? Doth he not lie, for faying that he never ate Flefh fince his Inftalment, when his Face fnew eth that he furpafled the Savages in eating his own Flefh? For indeed, by Fperftitious obferving of his Vow, he became an Anatomy, and lived as a Cypher amongft Men. But to anfwer the Carihufians Arguments, I fay this; That Chrift, in the Places of Scripture pited before,afked his Difciples what Meat they had? and Of MEATS. 131 and they anfwered, None but a few Loaves and a few Fifties ; wherewith he fatisfied himfelt and his Difciples, and above five thoufand Perfons at one time : Neither is it to be doubted if they had had Flefh, but he Would have fed the People with that: for it was his Property, which every Man ought to follow, to eat with Thankfgiving of that which was fet before him, were it F lefti or Fifh ; as no doubt he did at the Marriage in Cana, in Laza¬ rus's Houfe, and the Houfe of Zaccheus , and at the Feaft of the Pafiover, which albeit, for ought we read, he did but once celebrate ; yet Reafon and Religion teach us, that according to the Com¬ mandment of God, he did every Year celebrate it before, fince the time of his Childhood ; elfe the Jews would have accufed him as a Tranfgref- for of the Law, and by Juftice have cut him oft from amongft the People: but as he fubmitted himfelf to Circumcifion (being then one of the Sa¬ craments of the Church) fo queftionlefs after the Years of Difcrction, he did yearly eat of the Paf- chal Lamb (for he came not to break any Law given by Mofes , but to fulfil it) which cannot be fewer than five or fix and twenty times at the leaft. As for the other Argument taken from the reftraining of certain Beafts and Birds by Name, and that no Fifh by Name is there forbidden (fa- ving Baldwin his Grace’s Reverence) it is a Lie : For when God generally forbiddeth the Ifraehtes to eat of any Fifh that wanteth either Fins (as the Poulp, Periwinkles, Lobfters and Crabs) or Scales, (as the Eel, Lamprey, Plaife, B urbot and Con¬ ger, &c. ) doth he not exprefly forbid them to cat of Poulps, Periwinkles, Lobfters, Crabs, Eels, Lampreys, Plaife, Turbot, and Conger, and a hundred Fi(h more wanting either Scales or F ins ? F 6 Fifh 132 Health’.? Improvement. Fifli is therefore no purer Meat than Flefh, neither can a Carthufian eat a Sole (being a Meat for¬ bidden the Ifrae/ites) with a founder Conlcience than a piece of Beef or Swine’s Flefh. Finally, where he faith that the Aifions of Chrift fhould be our Inftrucftion, and his Works our Imitation ; Why do not thofe fifhy Friars eat Flefh every Monday , and Thurfday , fince Chrift himfelf did fo, whom we ought to imitate ? But let thefe alone to the Conformity of their Church’s Injunction, remembering alfo, with St. Paul , to abftain from no Meats which God hath created for our Life and Health. It is recorded by St. Jercm in his Epifiles, that Seneca, upon a foolifh Conceit, abftained fo long, from Flefh, and fed only upon Fruit and Fifh, (infected perhaps with the Leaven of the Egyp¬ tian Priefts) that when upon Nero* s Command¬ ment he was to bleed to Death, there did not f'pring from him a Drop of Blood. The like is. written of St. Genouefe, the holy Maid of Paris , who, like the Egyptian Prophetefs, abftained wholly from Flefh, becaufe it is the Mother of Luft : file would eat no Milk, becaufe it is white- .Blood ; file would eat no Eggs, becaufe they are nothing but liquid Flefh : Thus pining and con- Lming her Body, both againft .Nature and God- iinefs, file lived in a foolifn Error, thinking Flefh more ready to inflame Luft than Fruit or Fifh, the contrary whereof is proved by the Iflanders, Greenlanders, Orites, and other Nations; who feeding upon nothing but Fifh (for no Beaft nor Fruit can live there for cold) yea, having no. other Bread than is made of dried Stock-fifh grind¬ ed into Powder, are neverthelefs both exceeding jecherous, and alfo their Women very fruitful. Of MEATS. i 33 Yea, Venus, the Mother of Luft and Lechery is faid to have fprung from the Foam of Fifh, and to have been born in the Sea, becaufe nothing is more available to ingender Luft, than the eating of certain Fifties and Sea-plants, which I had ra¬ ther in this lafcivious Age to conceal from Pofte- rity, than to fpecify them unto my Countrymen, as the Grecians and Arabians have done to theirs. What Nation more lafcivious than the fenny Egyp- (ians and the Pceonians ? yet their Meat was only Fifh; yea, they fed their Horfes with them, as Herodotus writeth. Alfo in the Ifle of Rhodes , the Mother-feat of a ftrong and warlike Nation, the People heretofore fed chiefly of Fifh, abftain- ing with fuch a kind of Deteftation from Flefh, that they called the Eaters of it Savages and Bellies. And verily if a ftrong, lufty and warlike Nation Fprang from the Eaters of Fifh alone, why fhould we deny that Fifh is as much provoking to Ve- uery, as any Flefh. So then, I having fully proved that Flefh is as lawful, as pure,°and as toly a Meat as Fifh; now let us try which of them is the more ancient and better Nourifti- nent. Did we but mark, faith Plutarch , the greafy Foulnefs of Butchers, the bloody Fingers of Cooks, md the Smell of every Beaft’s Puddings and Of- al; we muft needs confefs that every thing was - aten before Flefh, which even (till we naturally ibhor to fee whilft it is in killing, and few touch without loathing when it is killed. The Indian 3 hilofophers, called Brachmans , being at length nduced to feed upon living Creatures, killed Fifh or their Suftenance, but abftained from Flefh,. ^nd tho’ the Babylonians delighted much, after Nimrod’s 134 Health** Improvement. Ninrod' s Example, in hunting and killing of wild Bealls; yet, [asHerodotus reporteth) they abftain- ed from Flelh, and lived wholly upon Fruit and Filh. For Anlwer of which Obje&ions, I oppofe to the Babylonians , Abraham and the holy Scriptures; which making; mention of a Calf drefs’d and eaten in Abraham's Houfe, before ever any mention is made of eating of Filh ; it is very probable that Flelh was foremoll, after the’ general Permilliorr to eat both. To the Indian Sophillers I oppofe Pythagoras and his Scholars, who being perfuaded at length to eat of certain Bealls and Birds, utter¬ ly yet abftained from eating of Filh, perhaps upon thefe Caufes: Firll, Becaufe it is a cruel and unmanlike thing, to kill thofe Creatures which cannot poflibly hurt the Inhabitants of the Earth. Secondly, What Neceflity is there to ufe them, Nature having replenilhed the Earth with Fruit, Herbs, Grain, Bealls alfo, and Birds of all forts ? Thirdly, Had Filh been eaten firll, no doubt it had been firll eaten of the Iflanders and Sea-bor¬ derers ; but neither the Inhabitants of the Helle - j'pont , nor the Wanders- of Pbaacum , nor the Wooers of Penelope , bringing all manner of Dain¬ ties to their Fealls, are ever read in Homer tc have brougnt or eaten Filh: no, nor bJlyJfes his Companions are recorded to have made their Sea-provifion of Filh, but of Flelh, Fruit, Salt, and Meal; neither ufed they any Hook to catch Filh withal, till they were almoll familhed foi want of Vi£lua!s, as you may read at large ir Homer his XJhJfes y which is a manifell Argument that Filh was not ufed, or at leal! not eaten of ; till Men were unfurnilhed of other Meats. La* Of MEATS. J 35 Laft of all, whereas Plutarch objeð how loathfome a thing it is to fee Butchers and Cooks fprinkled with Blood in killing and dreffing Flefh : I anfwer him. That the Sight is not fo loathfome to Nature, but to Nicenefs and Conceit: For what God permits to be eaten, Nature permits to drefs and kill; neither rebelleth (he more at the Death of an Ox, than at the cutting down of Hay or Corn. Nay furthermore, fince all was made for Man’s Ufe, and Man for God, fhe giv- ath us Liberty to kill all things that may make for the Maintenance of our Life, or Prefervation and reftoring of our Health. Hippocrates mod wittily having (hewed, that fome Men are deceitful by Nature, and that therefore Nature taught them the Art of making Dice (the Inftruments of De¬ ceit) he fheweth confequently, that becaufe Na¬ ture is provident for Men’s Health, therefore fhe hath hkewife invented the Arts of building,plaifter- ing, weaving and Tillage: wherefore, to imitate and urge Hippocrates ’s Argument, if Nature has provided Flefh and Fifh (that a fubftantial, this a more light Nourifhment for our Bodies) how r queamifh foever we are to fee them killed, yet it is no unnatural thing to fee it, no not to do it ourfelves. Concerning the laft Queftion, Whether Flefh or Fifh be the better Nourifhment ? I cannot rnfwer better than as Galen did, being afked the ike Queftion of Wine and Water : For as Wine s beft for one Man, and Water for another j fo ;ikewife Flefh is moft nourifhing to fome Confli- utions, and F'ifh to others. Timothy was young,, put yet fickly and weak ftomached, his Youth re¬ quired W ater, but his S ckr.efs Wine ; wherefore l J aul, like a good Phyilcian, advifed him to drink no 136 Health’/ Improvement. no longer Water, but a little Wine for his Sto- mach’s-fake, and his often Infirmities. So like- wife Severus the Emperor being fick at York of a hot Gout, his Phyficians forbad him all Flefh* efpecially of the ftronger fort; but he refufing their Counfel, nourifhed his Difeafe with forbidden Meats, and foon died. Contrariwife Seneca was forbidden by Serenus the Phyfician to eat any more of Fifh, being too too waterifh a Nourifhment for his weak Body; which whilfl he refufed to do, and forbore to eat Flefh, his Blood was all turned to a gellied Water. So then in refpedf of parti¬ cular Perfons, neither Flefh nor Fifh be of better Nourifhment, but both alike; yet generally Flefh ingendereth the better, purer, and more perfect Blood, as the very Colour and Face of Men which ufe either of them apart doth perfe&ly declare; and confequently for found Men, it is and ought to be accounted the beft Sultenance. CHAP. VIII. 1. Of the Flejh of tame Beajis. VEAL. ALVES Flefh is of a temperate Conftitution, ^ agreeing with all Ages, Times, and Tempe¬ ratures. C Ives are either Sucklings or Wain- lings : The firft are of eafier Digeftion, making good Blood, and driving Choler from the Heart; fo likewife are the Wainlings, but fomewhat ' harder; either of them agree with hot and dry Perfons, J Of MEATS. 137 3 erfons, howfoever they are drefs’d ; but to flaggy md moift Stomachs, Veal is unwholefome unlefs t be dry roafted ; for roafted Meats give dry STourifhment, and boil’d Meats moift, as Galen writeth. The Italians are fo in love with Veal, that they rail Veal Vitellam , that is to fay, their little Life ; is tho’ it gave not only Nouriftimcnt, but alfo Life to their dry Bodies: which albeit I confefs to be true, by reafon neither their Calves Flefh, nor :heir own Bodies, be fo moift as ours; yet in our Country it falls out otherwife, through abundance of Moifture ; fo that howfoever found Bodies do well digeft it, yet languifhing and weak Stomachs find it too flimy, and can hardly overcome it: Did we not kill them fo foon as commonly we do, namelv, before they be fully a Month old, they would give the more found and wholefome Nourifhment; for till they be five or fix Weeks old their Flefh is but a gelly hardened ; afterwards it is firm Flefh, void of fuperfluous Moifture, and moft temperate of Conftitution. Likewife in the Choice of Veal, the Bull Calf is thought the fweeter and better Flefh ; whereas in all other Beafts, for the moft part, the Female is pre¬ ferred. BEEF. Ox Beef, the older it is after his full Growth, the worfe it is, ingendering, as Galen dreamed of all Beef, Quartan Agues, Leprofies, Scabs, Can¬ kers, Dropfies, Stoppings of the Spleen and Li¬ ver, Gfc. but whilft it is young, or growing for¬ wards in Flefh and Fatnefs, it is of all Meats by Nature, Complexion and Cuftom, moft nourifh- 138 Health’/ Improvement. ing unto Englijh Bodies, which may eafily appeal* in the Difference of their Strength, and clean making, which feed chiefly upon it, and betwixt them that are accuftomed to finer Meats. Chufe we therefore the youngeft, fatteft, and beft grown Ox, having a while firft been exerciled in Wain; or Plough to difpel his foggy Moifture, and I dare undertake, that for found Men, and thofe that| labour or ufe Exercife, there is not a better Meatf under the Sun for an Eaglijhman ; fo that it bes alfo corned with Salt before it be roafted, or well and fufficiently poudered before it be fodden ; foil fo is it cleanfed from much Impurity, and made alfo more favoury to the Stomach ; but if it be over-falted, poudered, or dried, as commonly it happeneth in Ship Provifion and rich Farmers Houfes, that keep Beef a whole twelve-month till they eat it, it is tough, hard, heavy, and of ill Nourifhment, requiring rather the Stomach of another Hercules , who is (aid to have fed chiefly of Bulls Flefh, than of any ordinary and common Plowman. Wherefore howfoever we may tafte of it to bring on Appetite, let it be but a touch and go; for being eaten much and often, it will heat and corrupt our Blood, dry up our Bodies, choke the meferaical Veins, and bring forth many dangerous inward and outward Griefs. The Romans , when they firft ventured to drefs an Ox, (fearing belike what Event might follow the eating of an unknown Meat) roafted the Ox all at once, and fluffed his Belly with all forts of fvveet Herbs, and good Flefh that the Seafon yielded, making no fmall Pudding in his Belly, which the People called Equusn Erojanum , the *2 rojan Horfe ; becaufe it contained no fewer kinds of Meats than that did Soldiers; but had they Of MEATS. 139 they known the wholefomnefs of the Meat, and our manner of dreffing, they needed not to have mingled fo many Antidotes, and to have corrupted rather than corredled fo good a Nourifhment. COW BEEF. Cow Beef is fuppofed by the Ir'tjb People, and alfo by the Normans in France , to be beft of all y neither do they account fo much of Oxen, either becaufe they think them unperfedf Creatures, or rather (as I take it) becaufe they know not how to ufe and diet them in the gelding. But were they as fkilrul in that Point, as alfo in the kill¬ ing and dreffing of Oxen, as was Prometheus^ no doubt they would make higher Eftimation ot one Ox than of all the fat Cows in Ceres 's Stall. Nevertheless I deny not, yea I affirm, with Galen , that a fat and- young Heifer, kept up a while with dry Meat, will prove a convenient, temperate and good Nouriflrment, efpecially if it be killed after the French Fafhion, as I faw the Norman Butchers kill them in our Camp, whilft I lay there in Camp with that Flower of Chivalry the Earl of EJfex. When the Cow is ftruck down with the Ax, prefently they lay her upon her Back, and make a Hole about the Navel as bigas to receive a Swan’s Quill, through which the Butcher blows Wind fo long, till the whole Skin fwell round about like a Bladder, in fuch fort that the Beaft feems of a double Bignefs ; then whilft one holdeth the Quill clofe and bloweth conti¬ nually, two or three others beat the Cow as hard as they can with Cudgels round about; which beating never bruifeth the Flefh (for Wind is ever betwixt it and the Skin) but maketh both the Hide 14 ° Health 9 s Improvement. Hide to prove better Leather, and the Flefh *to eat better and tenderer than otherwife it would. BULL BEEF. Bull Beef, unlefs it be very young, is utterly unwholefome and hard of Digeftion, yea, almoft .invincible. Of how hard and binding a Nature Lulls Blood is, may appear by the Place where they are killed ; for it glazeth the Ground, and maketh it of a ftony Hardnefs. To prevent which Mifchief, either Bulls in o|d time were torn by Lions, or hunted by Men, or baited to death by Dogs, as we ufe them ; to the Intent that vio¬ lent Heat and Motion might attenuate their Blood, refolve their Hardnefs, and make their Flefh fofter in Digeftion. Bulls Flefh being thus prepared, ftrong Stomachs may receive fome Good thereby, tho to weak, yea, to temperate Stomachs it will prove hurtful. L A M B’s FLESH. Galeriy Halyabbas , and Ifaac, condemn Lamb’s Flefh for an over phlegmatic and moift Meat ; breeding ill Nourifhment, and through exceffive ^Vatterifhnefs flipping out of the Stomach before it be half concodbed : in cold Stomachs it turns all to Slime, in a hot Stomach it corrupts into Cho- lerj in aged Perfons it turns to Froth and Phlegm ; in a young Perfon, and temperate, it turns to no wholefome Nourifhment, becaufe it is of fo flafhy and moift a Nature : all which I confefs to be true in fucking Lambs, who the nearer they are killed to their Birth-day the worfe they are ; but when they are once weaned, and have fed half a Year upon Of MEATS. ,41 pon fhort and tender Grafs, I think that of all >ther Flefh it is fimply the beft, as I will prove •y divine and human Reafon : For as in the New feftament, the Lord’s Supper materially confift- th of two fuch things, as there cannot be any 3rink or Meat devifed more comfortable nor nore (Lengthening to the Nature of Man, name- y, Bread and Wine; fo likewife the blell'ed Sa~ :rament of the Old Teftament could not conve- liently be fo well exprefted as in the eating of hat which was the pureft, moft temperate, and noft nourifhing of all Meats: And what Flefh is hat 1 pray you ? Veal, Pig, or Goats Flefh ? or he Hefh of wild Beads ? or the Flefh of Birds ? * 0 , but the Flefh of a found weaned Lamb of a X ear old, whofe Flefh is neither too cold and noifl, as is a Suckling’s; nor too dry, and hot, is when it hath Strength to know the Ewe ; but a mod temperate Conftitution, fitted; to res¬ emble the thing fignified, who is of all other )ur beft Nourifhment. Pbilochorus is recorded to have made a Law hat tire Athenians fhould eat no more Lambs Flefh; not becaufe they thought it too tender a Meat for Mens Stomachs, as fome foolifhly have conceived, but becaufe the People found it fo tfholefome, pleafant and nourifhing, that every Man defiled it above all Meats ; in fuch fort, that iad not the eating of them been reftrained by a evere Law, the whole Race of Sheep would have decayed amongft them. Upon the like Reafon Valent die Emperor made a Law, that no Veal Ihould be eaten; which was counted in old time a princely Meat (for always it was one Difli at the King’s Table in Egypt , tho’ they never had but two) howfoever, through God’s fingular Bleffing, 14.2 Health’j Improvement. Bleflmg, it is an ordinary Meat among# us ii mean Houfholds. The be# way to prepare Lamb’s Flelh is fuf- ficient roafting, for boiling makes it too flalhj and phlegmatic, and by over-roafting the Sweet- nefs thereof is foon dried up. Yea, all Muttor (contrary to the Nature of Pork, Pig, and Veal' (hould rather be too raw than too much roafted : according as the Frenchmen find by Experience, who flalh and cut a Giggot of Mutton upon the Spit, and with the bloody Juice thereof (temperec with Crumbs of Bread and a little Salt) recovei weak Stomachs andPerfonsconfumed. Wherefore howfoever fome naturally abhor it (as my honefl Friend Signior Romano) and ftrong Stomachs prove better with harder Meat; yet without all Queftion. a Lamb chofen and drefs’d in manner aforefaid, ijj for moll Men a very temperate, nourilhing and wholefome Meat, agreeing with all Ages, Times, Regions and Complexions. Arnoldus Freitagius , in his natural Hillory, faith, that the hinder Quarters of a Lamb being drawn with Rofemary and Garlic firfl lleept in Milk, and moderately roafted at the Fire, is a Meat moft acceptable to the Tafte, and alfo pro¬ fitable to moift Stomachs, for which it is elfe commonly thought to be hurtful. Alfo he afiur- eth, that Lamb’s Flefh, being well beaten with a Cudgel before it is roafted, eateth much better, and is far wholefomer; which I leave to be judg¬ ed by the Cook’s Experience. MUTTON [ Of MEATS. MUTTON. m Mutton is fo generally commended of all Phy- :ians, if it be not too old, that it is forbidden to ) Perfons, be they Pick or found. The beft utton is not above four Years old, or rather it much above three ; that which is taken from fliort, hilly, and dry feeding, is more fweet, 3rt and wholefome, than that which is either 1 in rank Grounds, or with Peafe-ftraw (as we rceive by the Tafte) great, fat, and rank fed eep, fuch as Somerfetjhire and Lincolnjhire fend- 1 up to London , are nothing fo fhort and plea- lt in eating as the -Norfolk, IViltJhire , and Welch utton ; which being very young, are beft roaft- ; the elder fort are not fo ill being fodden with iglofs, Borrage, and Parfley Roots. Now if fome Ihall here objedf, that gelding 3 fpading be unnatural Adtions, and that Eu- chs are fubjedt to more Difeafes than perfedt en ; inferring thereupon a Reafon or Likeli- 3d, that the like may be alfo in all gelded Ware, ;d confcquently in Muttons) contrary to that ich Galen hath affirmed ; I will deny all their Titions upon good Grounds: For even Nature h deprived fome things of that which Gelders away ; and that Eunuchs are freed from many cafes (as Gouts, Baldnels, Leprofies) where- o other Men are fubjedt, Experience in all es truly avoucheth. Laft of all, it is generally ifefled of all fkilful Shepherds, and namely by 7r ‘ es Steven and John Liebaultf that Ewes and ms are iubjedf to far more Maladies than Mut- ' s , requiring greater Coft, Care, Skill and evidence, to maintain them in Plealth. R A M’s 144 Health^ Improvement. RAM’* FLESH and EWE’; FLESH. As for Ram’s Flefh and Ewe’s Flefh (that b< ing too hot and dry, this too excremental an foon corrupted) I commend neither of them, efpo daily in this Country of ours, where there i God be thanked, fuch Choice of wholeforr Weathers. KID and GOAT. As Lamb’s Flefh is lighter and moifter thr other Mutton, fo is Kid more light and moi than Goat’s Flefh ; becaufe, as Hippoc7'ates re foneth, it is lefs bloody, and the Blood which hath is very moift, liquid, and fine. The blat and red Kids are better than the white; and t! younger they are (fo they be above a Forthnig old) the more wholefome and nourifhing they a efteemed. Their Flefh is foon and quickly c gefted, of excellent Nourifhment, and reftorati after a great Sicknefs; efpecially for young Perfo and hot Stomachs, but naught for them which a old and phlegmatic. It is better roafted th; fodden, and the hinder parts are to be preferr becaufe they are drier and lefs excremental. Th are temperately hot and moift, whilft they a under fix Weeks Age; for afterwards they grc to fuch Heat and Lafcivioufnefs, that, before th are wained, they will after they have fuckt, cov their own Dam; after they are once waine their Flefh may be fit for ftrong labouring Me which would not fo well brook a tender Sucklin' but for the moft part of Men it is unwholefor and of bad Juice. T Of MEAT S. , 45 The old He-Goat is fuitable to an old Ram, fave that it is more tough, hard, and unpleafant; his Flefh is not to be eaten, till he hath been baited like a Bull to death ; and when he is dead, you muft beat the FJefli in the Skin, after the French Fafhion of beating a Cow. The She-Goat being young, is lefs hurtful; but an old She-Goat is worfe, and of a more (harp and corrupt Juice; rather provoking Venery and Sharpnefs of Seed (as alfo the Male doth) than nouriihing the Body. A gelded Goat was unknown to ancient Phyfi- cians, but queftionlefs it is the beft next to a fuck¬ ing Kid ; for it is more moift through abundance of Fat, and alfo of more temperate Heat, becaufe it wanteth Stones, in which I certainly believe a more violent Heat to be placed than in any part befide : yea, whereas the Liver draweth only from the Stomach and Guts by the meferaical Veins, and the Heart only from the Lungs and Liver, and the Brain from all three ; the Stones have a Heat which draweth Seed from the whole Body, yea, from the Bones and GrifUes, as Hippocrates writeth, and Reafon colledfeth. Furthermore the tolerable Smell which a gelded Goat hath, ftieweth that his Flefh is far fweeter ; but He-Goats and She-Goats are fo rank, that a \ encer of Thebes feeding much of them, no Man could endure his Sweat. Alfo the chief Prieft of Rome did never fo much as touch them, faith Plu- tarch , becaufe they are fubjed.1 to the Falling- Sicknefs ; letcherous in Life, and odious in Smell. \ , P I G i/j.6 HealthV Improvement. PIG, SOW, BOAR, and HOG. Pig’s Flefh, by a long and bad Cuflom, is fo generally defired and commended, that it is cre¬ dibly, tho’ falfly, efteemed for a nourifhing and excellent good Meat: Indeed it is fweet, lufcious, and pleafant to Wantons, and earneftly defired of diftempered Stomachs ; but it is the Mother of many Mifchiefs, and was the Bane of mine own Mother. A fucking Pig’s Flefh is the moifteft Flefh fimply of all other, ingendering Crudities, Palfies, Agues, Gouts, Apoplexies, and the Stone, weakening the Memory (for it is moift in the third Degree, procuring Fluxes of the Belly, and ingendering mod vifcous, flafhy and corrupt Hu¬ mours. Their Flefh is hardly digefted of a weak Stomach, and their Leather Coat not eafily of a ftrong. The younger they are, the worfe they are; yet fome venture upon them, yea, covet them, e’er they be eight Days old : yea, the Ro¬ mans Delicacy was fuch, that they thought them dainty Meat, being taken Blood and all out of the Sow’s Belly e’er file was ready to farrow, eat¬ ing them, after a little bruifing in the Blood, no lefs greedily than fome do the Pudding of a bruifed Deer. We do well in roafting our Pigs at a blazing Fire, fprinkling them with Salt on the Outfide ; but if we ftuft their Bellies with a good deal of Salt as well as Sage, and did eat them with new Sage, Vinegar and Salt, they would be lefs offenfive. The Danes , I remember, when I was at Elfe - more , draw them with Garlic, as the Frenchmen do with Lard, which is no ill Corrector of their Sliminefs Of MEATS. 147 Sliminefs and vifcous Humour. The Boar Pig is not preferred before the Sow Pig, becaufe it is ftrong and rank. Boar’s Flefh, I mean of the tame Boar, is ne¬ ver good but when it is brawn’d ; which though Pliny avoucheth to be firft invented by Servillus Rullus , yet by Plautus it feemeth to be a more ancient Meat. The beft Way of brawning a Boar is this of all other, which I learned firft of Sir Thomas George, and faw pra&ifed afterwards to good purpofe. Shut up a young Boar, of a Year and a half old, in a little Room in Harveft-time, feeding him with nothing but fweet Whey, and giving him every Morning clean Straw to lie upon, but lay it not thick j fo before Chrijltnas he will be fufficiently brawned with continual lying, and prove exceed¬ ingly fat, wholefome and fweet: As for the com¬ mon Way of brawning Boars, by ftying them up in fo clofe a Room that they cannot turn them- felves round about, and whereby they are forced always to lie on their Bellies, it is not worthy of Imitation ; for they feed in Pain, lie in Pain, and fleep in Pain; neither fhall you ever find their Fleih fo red, their Fat fo white, nor their Liver fo found, as being brawned other wife accordingly, as is before rehearfed. After he is brawned for I your turn, thruft a Knife into one of his Flanks, and let him run with it till he die : others gently bait him with muzzled Dogs. The Roman Cooks thruft a hot Iron into his Side, and then run him to death, thinking thereby that his Flefh waxed tenderer and his Brawn firmer. Sow’s Flefh is reckoned of Ifaac , de diat. par~ tic. to ingender good Blood, to nourifh plentifully, yea, to be reftorative if it be young. But an old G 2 Sow 148 Health’* Improvement. Sow breedeth ill Juice, is hardly concocted, and begetteth moft vifcous Humours. The Heliopo- litans abftained from Sow’s Flelh of all others; Firft, Becaufe, contrary to the Nature and Courfe of all other Beafts, {he admits the Boar not in the Full, but in the Wain of the Moon. Secondly, they demand, How can her Flefh be wholefome, whofe Milk being drunk, filleth our Bodies full of Leprofy, Scurf, Tetters and Scabs? Yea, a Sow is one of the moft filthy 1 Creatures in the World ; her Belly is never void of Scurf, her Throat of kernelly Apoftems, her Brain fo heavy and moift that (he cannot look up to Heaven ; or rather {he dare not, being the Rooter up, and fo bad an Inhabitant of the Earth. Neverthelefs I am of Ifaac’s mind, that a young Sow kept long from the Boar, fweetly dieted with Roots, Corn, and Whey, and kept from filthy feeding and wal¬ lowing, may be made gpod and tolerable Meat for ftrong Stomachs, after it hath been powdered and well roafted. , '1 PORK and BACON. Now concerning Pork and Hog’s Flefti made of a fpaded Sow, or a Hog gelded, verily let us fay thereof, as ’Tbeon {aid of all forts of Swine, if it be not good for Meat, wherefore is it good ? His Cry is moft odious and harfh, his Smell loathfome, his very Shape detefted : at home he is ravening, in the Field rooting, and every where filthy, foul, unhappy, and unprofitable. All which Hurts he recompenceth in this only one, that of all other Beafts, if Galen be not deceived, he moft nou- rilheth, efpecially if he feed abroad upon fweet Grafs, good Maft and R.oots; for that which is penn’d Of MEATS. 149 Penn’d up and fed at home with Taps-drappings, Kitchen-offal, four Grains, and all manner of Draff, cannot be wholefome. In Pliny 's time they were fo far from fatting them with fuch Refufe, that, confidering they were to be eaten of themfelves, Men ufually fat¬ ted their Hogs with Milk and Figs. But fince that Courfe is more chargeable than neceffary for Englijhmen , either let their Hogs feed themfelves fat abroad with Grafs and Maft, or at home with only fweet Whey and a little ground Cum, than which they cannot have a more fweet Meat. Furthermore, to ufe Galen’s Encomium or Piaifeof a Hog (whereby you may fwear he was no few, nor Lopus no good Phyfician) howfoever nothing lefs refembleth a Man than a Hog in Ins Outwards, yet inwardly no Creature refembleth him more ; for the Colour and Subftance of his Flefh, the Shape, Figure, Connexion, Sufpen- fion. Proportion, and Situation of his Entrails, differ little or nothing from Man’s Body ; and befides that, when he is of a juft Growth, his Temper is alfo moft like to ours. Thus much out of Galen for the Praife of Pork ; whom, al¬ beit Realdus Columbus and Vefalius do oppugn in their Anatomies concerning the Likelihood of a Man’s and a Hog’s Entrails; yet none hitherto denied Pork to be a temperate Meat, being corn¬ ed and roafted, or fodden after it hath been well powdered. Neverthelefs, to yield mine own Opinion, I efteem it (by Galen's Leave) a very } queafy Meat, howfoever it be prepared, and to ! have in itfelf always, fatuofwn cbacochymicum Gf [febrile quid. For if you eat it frefh, it is as dan¬ gerous as frefh Sprats to an aguifli Stomach ; if you eat it corned, yet is it of grofs Juice and G 3 fpeedy 150 Health’j Improvement. fpeedy Corruption, unlefsby Muflard and Sorrel Sauce it be corrected : if it be fodden and powder¬ ed, green Sauce made of Sorrel is to be eaten with it, both to cool the fiery Nature of the Salt, and alfo to qualify the Malignity of the Flelh itfelf: If it be faked and made into Bacon, how hard is it to be digefted in moft Mens Stomachs, either boiled or fried? Yea, the Caretans of Spain , whom Strabo writeth to be the belt Makers of Saufages and fait Meats in the whole World, and the Normans in France , whofe Bacon Flitches and Jambons Varro extolleth, could never fo dry Bacon, or make Pork into fuch wholefome Sau¬ fages, feafoned with Pepper, Salt, and Sage, but that it needed a Draught of Wine more than ordi¬ nary to macerate and digeft it in the Stomach.' It is recorded that Leo the tenth, Pope of Rome y loved Pork fo exceedingly, that he bellowed above two thoufand Crowns a Year in Saufages, ming¬ ling the Brawns of Peacocks with Porks Flelh, Pepper, and other Spices, which were afterwards called Leonis incifia y Leo his Saufages. But when Adrian the fixth his Succefior perufed the Ac¬ counts, and found above ten thoufand Ducats fpent by his Predeceffor in that one Meat, he detefted him (faith Jovius ) as much dead, as he honoured him whilft he was alive. Finally, no Brav/n, Pork or Bacon, fhould be eaten without Wine, according to that old Verfe made in Salernitan 's School, which fome no lefs account of than the Heathen did of Apollo's Oracles. EJi caro porcina fine vino pejor ovina; Si tribuis vina, tunc efl cibus & medicina. A.s Of MEATS. 151 As Mutton tough, Pork without Wine Is not efteem’d fo good : But if that Wine be drunk thereon, ’TisPhyfic both and Food. Or if Wine be fcarce, drink after fuch Meats a good Draught of your ftrongeft Beer well fpiced with Ginger, and then labour it out, as Plowmen do ; for eafe after grofs Meats is very dangerous, but ftrong Labour overcometh all things. As for the Entrails of Hogs, and efpecially the Horfelet, which Publius Syria preferred before all Meats, I find them to be flopping, and of bad Nourifhment; yet the Livers of Pigs are counted nourifhing, but their Lungs are waterifh and very- phlegmatic. CHAP. IX. Of the Flefh of wild Beafls , or Venifon . WILD BOAR and WILD SOW, all Venifon, Hippocrates mofi commendeth v -* the Flefh of a wild Sow, becaufe it is not only an excellent nourifhing and ftrengt’hening Meat, but alfo medicinal to keep us from Coftive- liefs. Reafon teacheth us, that it is far above tame Pork or Swine’s Flefh ; Firft, Becaufe it feeds more purely : Secondly, Becaufe it hath not Meat brought to hand, but gets it by travail, and hath choice of Diet to feed whereon it lifteth. Thirdly, It is not penn’d up, as commonly our G 4 Swine 1 5 2 Health’j Improvement. owine be, in a little clofe and flinking Stie, but enjoyeth the Benefit of a clear Air, which clarifi- t th Blood as much as any Meat can augment it. It is a rare Meat in England , and found only, as I have been informed, in my Lord Latimer's Woods, who took great Pleafure in hunting them, and made alfo wild Bulls of tame ones, as cui forefathers, more wifely, made tame of wild. If they be young, fat, fully grown, and taken in Chafe, in the Winter-time, prefently after Mail is Mien, they are unfit for few Mens Stomachs, being thus prepared as I have feen them drefs’d in 1 1igl'j Germany. Firfl, After the Flefh is throucth- >, co.d, parboil it in Rhenijb Wine, wherein ripe Juniper-Berries were fodden : then having taken i- out and fliced it, feafon every Slice or Cut there¬ of with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, and Nutmegs, of each a iufHcicnt Quantity : lafl of all make it in Paffe, with good flore of fweet i.) utter, and it will prove a mofl excellent Meat to be eaten cold. Wild Calves are common in Wales upon the •vloun tains, whence one was brought this laft Chriitmas to Ludlow Caflle, where I did eat of it roafled and baked ; and by Tafle I find it more firm and dry, and by the Effe&s of Digeftion, more wholeiome and paflable than our ordinary Veal. } RED and FALLOW DEER. Now concerning Deer’s Flefh, which Jfaac in his old Age fo much longed for, fome imagine it to be the world Meat of all others, and fome con¬ ceive it to be the befl. Galen numbereth it a- mongft hard, melancholic, and grofs Meats, com- Of M E A T S. 153 comparing, yea, almoft preferring Abes Flefh be¬ fore it; afcribing alfo unto it ill Concodtion, ill Nourilhment, Stoppings, and Quartan Fevers. Roger Bacon thinks it one of the belt Meats, if it be fo young that we can digeft it: For, faith he, Quod diu femetipfum , alios illud diu conferva re potejl: That which long liveth hy its own Nature , maketh alfo others to live long. But by his leave, we may then feed better upon Ravens than Ca¬ pons, for thefe never live above feven Years, and a Raven liveth to nine hundred Years, if Rirgil be not deceived. Plutarch thinketh Deer an unwholefome Meat, becaufe it is of a cold and melancholic Conftitu- tion. And how proreth he that? Forfooth, r. Becaufe he is fearful. 2. Becaufe if he were of a hot Complexion, as the wild Boar is, his Tears would be fweet, as his be ; but the Fears of a Deer, and efpecially of a Stag, are fait; ergo , he is of a cold and dry Conftitution. But Empedocles was of founder Opinion, who afcribeth all Teat'* to the working of Heat; for as Milk yeildeth Whey by birring, churning and prefiing, fo any violent Paffion, be it Joy or Grief, Anger or Pity, churneth the Blood, ftirreth the Humours, and prefleth the Brain, whereupon Tears (the wheyilh part of them all) mull needs enfue. F urthermore they are thought to be unwholefome, becaufe Bucks and Stags feed upon Snakes; yea, as an Afs is to a Lion’s Mouth, or Honey to Bears, or t lies to Martlets, fo are Serpents to them a mod defired Meat; whereupon the Grecians call them Serpent-catchers. Might I be a fufficient Arbitrator between two fo learned Men, I would determine the Truth to be on either Side ; for indeed young Venifon, whilft it is lucking, is G 5 very 154 Health’j Improvement, very reftorative ; neither do I think old Ifaac , in his declining Age, to have delighted more in it in refpedt of Tafte, than in refpedt of Wholefome- nefs and Goodnefs. Alfo a gelded Deer is neither too dry nor too cold, but of a temperate Conffi- tution, and fo void of fuperfluous or excrementi- tious Humours, that his Horns never grow again after he is gelded, which Arijlotle and all Philofo- phers impute to Superfluity of Heat and Moifture. Nay, young Bucks and Does, Hinds and Stags, whilft they are in feafon, are a wholefome and de¬ licate Meat, breeding no bad Juice of themfelves, yet bearing often the Faults of bad Cooks, who know not how to drefs or ufe them aright, but more often the deferved Reproaches of greedy Gourmands, that cannot moderately ufe the good Creatures of God, either eating Venifon when they fhould not, or more liberally and ufually than they fhould. The Italians alfo have this Opinion of Venifon, that eaten in ihe Morning, it pro- longeth Life,but eaten towards Night, it haften- eth Death. Contrariwife old Venifon indeed is dry, and perhaps too cold likewife ; full of grofs, clammy, and incorrigible Humours : fo that the feme Meat may be wholefome at fome Age, in fome Times, and for forrte certain Complexions, which otherwife in contrary Circumftances is un- wholefome j yet is it never fo precious as that a Man fhould venture his Life to get it by Stealth, as many do, and have done in Noblemens Parks, yea, perhaps in their Princes Forefts and chief Chafes. Cardan affirmeth, that Bucks and Does have no Galls in their Bodies, which is rather a Sign of good Temperature and Lightnefs, than of any dull, dry, or heavy Meat, This wie thing only Of MEATS. 155 I will add, that Keepers of Parks, or at the leaft their Servants and young Children, have, upon my Knowledge, fed all the Year long of little Meat elfe, and vet remained as ftrong, healthful and active, as any Perfons could be. Finally, Admit Deer be dry, doth not Butter amend them ? Sup- pofe they he cold, doth not Pepper and Salt, and baking, give them fuflicient Heat ? Thus, how- foever :t talleth out, they are either by Preparation (which none can deny) or by Nature (as I verily believe) a good Nourifhment, fo that they be chofen in their due Seafon, juft Age, and mode¬ rately fed upon : neither have we any Reafon from their Unwholefomnefs to difpark our Parks, or to cut down Forefis provided for their Succour; nay, rather, we ought to cheriftt them for the Mainte¬ nance of Hunting, whereunto if young Gentlemen were addi&ed, as their Fathers were heretofore, they would be more ready (whereof Hunting is a Refemblance) to warlike Purpofes and Exploits. ROEBUCK and CAPREOL. But of all Venifon, Roebuck and Capreol bear- eth away the Bell; for whereas the forenamed Beafts are difcredited for their Groftnefs of Blood, the Capreol’s Blood is exceedingly fine, through his fwift running, and continual frifking and leap¬ ing from Place to Place, whereby his Pores are ever opened, and all bad Humours confumed by Exercife, fo that the very Smell of his Flelh is not heavy nor fulfome, as in other Deer, but fragrant, quick and delightful; neither hath his Flefh the ordinary Tafte of Venifon, but a peculiar and more pleafant Tafte; neither lieth it heavy upon any Stomach, but is digefted as foon as Kid, curing G 6 alf* 156 Health^ Improvement. alfo (as Ifaac writeth) the Falling Sicknefs, Cho¬ lic, Dropfy, and abundance of Phlegm colleded in any part. It is permitted to all indifferent Sto¬ machs, and forbidden only to Children, choleric Conftitutions, lean and confumed Bodies, fhrunk Sinews, and burning Agues. The Alps are full of them in High Germany , and fome of ourMoun- tains of JVales are not without them. They are good roafted, fodden, or baked as Red Deer ; but you need not to pepper or fait them half fo much, for their Flefh, even when they are old, is eafily digefted, and fcarce needeth a Cup of Mine, which other Venifon neceffarily reqaireth, to haften their Concodtion. Furthermore, where all kinds of other Venifon are not good but at cer¬ tain Seafons, yet the Capreol is never out of Sea- fon, being alike wholefome in Summer and Win¬ ter, and alike toothfome, as the Borderers of the Alps do belt know, and our own Countrymen might perceive if they made Trial. HARE S. Hares or Leverets, the beloved Meat of Alex¬ ander Severus , taken in hunting, roafted with frefh Lard, and eaten with Venifon-Sauce, cannot of¬ fend a reafonable Stomach. Galen faith, that the Flefh of a Hare prevents Fatnefs, caufeth Sleep, and cleanfeth the Blood: Howbeit, in another Place he faith, that it breedeth grofs Blood and melancholic Humours, which unlefs he underftand only of old, lean, and unfeafonable Hares, Expe¬ rience itfelf will overthrow him : For take a young Leveret, and let it blood as you do a Pid- geon, the Flefh of it will be very white, tender, and well relifhing j yea, little inferior to a Mid- fummer Of MEATS. •57 fummer Rabbit: yet I deny not, with Hippo crates , that it dryeth more than ordinary Meats ; for it provoketh much Urine, and fo accidentally moifteneth little, tho’ it be moift enough of its own Nature. Pijfanellus writeth, and the Italians generally believe it, that eating of much Hare’s Flefh maketh a Man fair and merry feven Days after : For which Purpofe, perhaps, they were fo much n requeft amongft the Romans , who fattened young Hares in Clappers, as we do Cunnies, find¬ ing them fo dieted to be a delicate and wholefome Meat. Tame Hares fo prepared are good at all :imes, but wild Hares are beft and fatteft in the lardeft time of Winter. Certain it is, that much mating of Hares Flefh procureth Leannefs, becaufe t is very diuretical; and common Senfe teacheth, hat a Man pilling much cannot be fat, becaufe he wheyifh part of Blood, called of Hippocrates -£opr,<; the Sledge of Nourifjment , is fooner expelled than it can carry Nourifhment through¬ out the Body. The Nether Germans hang their Tares fix or feven Days in the cold and fhadovvy \ir before they flay or drefs them, whereby they orove exceeding tender, tho’ a Night or two Nights hanging were fuflicient. We do ufually >oil the foreparts in Broth, and roaft only the dnderparts ; and not without Reafon : for as in Cid and Lamb the hinderparts are drieft, and herefore we feethe them,the foreparts over-moift, nd therefore we roaft them ; fo contrariwife a fare is drieft before, and moifteft behind. Now concerning fuch Medicines, as Matthio - V avoucheth to be taken from a Hare’s Harfelet, rom his Skin, Gall, Kidneys, Bones, Stones, 3 * 5 ^ Healths Improvement, Hair, Blood, and Dung, I think it impertinent to the Treatife of Diet, which fheweth not how to give Medicines, but to ufe Nourifhments. C U N N I E S. It is not to be thought ft range that Hippocrates and Galen , and all the Grecians , wrote fo little of Cunnies, which with us, above all other Nations, are fo common a Meat; for as Ithaca never bred nor foftered them, fo in all Greece they hardly lived. Here, Thanks be to God, they are plen¬ tiful, in fuch fort that Alborm Chafe affordeth above a hundred thoufand Couple a Year, to the Benefit of good Houfe-keeping, and the Poor’s Maintenance. Rabbit-fuckers are beft in March , agreeing as well with old, melancholic, dry, and weak Sto¬ machs, as difagreeing with ftrong and moift Com¬ plexions. A Midfummer Rabbit’s Flefh is lejs moift and more nourifhing ; but a Michaelmas or Winter Rabbit is of firm, wholefome, tem¬ perate, and raofl laudable Flefh; beft roafted, , becaufe their nourifhing Juice is foon foaked out with the leaft feething, making good Broth and bad Meat. Chufe the Female before the Male, the fat before the lean, and both from out a chalky Ground and a fweet Layer. HEDGE-HOG. When I confidered how cleanly the Hedge-hog feedeth, namely, upon Cow’s Milk, if he can come by ft, or upon Fruit and Maft; I faw no reafon to difcontinue this Meat any longer upon Come fantaftical Diflike, fince Books, Nature and Expe? Of MEATS. 159 Experience hath commended it unto us : For as Martial made Hare’s Flefh the daintieft Difh of the Romans , fo in Hippocrates’s time the Hedge¬ hog was not of the leaft account among the Gre- cains , which he commendeth for an excellent Nourifhment, were it notfomething too moift and diuretical. Nay, as fome affirm, it nourifheth plen¬ tifully, procureth Appetite and Sleep, ftrengthen- eth Travellers, preferveth Women with Child from mifcarrying, diffolveth Knots and kernelly Tumors, helps the Lt profy, Confumption, Palfy, Dropfy, Stone, and Convulfions; only it is for¬ bidden unto melancholic and phlegmatic Perfons, and fuch as are vexed with Piles or Hemorrhoids. SQ_UIR,RELS. Squirrels are much troubled with two Difeafes, Choler and th- Failing-Sicknefs; yet their hinder- parts are indifferent good whilft they are young, fried with Parfley and Butter: but being no ufual nor warrantable good Meat, let me fkip with them and over them to another Tree; for it is time to write of the winged Nation, which pro- mifes us a fecond Courfe of more dainty, I will not fay of more wholefome Meats. Neither fhall I difcourfe of Affes Flefh, which Macenas fo highly loved, that all Italy was too little to find him Affes enough ; nor of Horfe-flefh, for longing after which Gregory III. excommunicated the Ger¬ mans ; nor of Foxes Flefh, which the Vandals eat for reftorative; nor of Lions Flefh, wherewith Achilles was dieted in his Pupillage ; nor of Bears Flefh, which the Mofcovite calls his great Veni- fon ; nor of Apes Flefh, tho’ it moft refembleth a Man, which the Xygantes in Africa highly efteem and 190 Health*/ Improvement. and eat of in their folemn Feafls; nor of Lizards, Tortoifes, or any other four-footed Beaffs; nor of Mans Flefh, albiit the Cannibals praife it above all other, as OJ'orius writeth: And Cambletes King of Lydia , having eaten of his own Wife, faid, he was forry to have been ignorant fo long of fo good a Difh. As for the Flefh alfo of young Puppies, commended of Hippocrates and after¬ wards of Galen, howfoever in the Wes of Corfica and Malta they are (fill efteemed as good Meat; yet Cardan faith in his Hiftory, that they made the People like to Dogs, that is to fay, cruel, flout, rafh, bold, and nimble. MTerefore leap¬ ing over thefe infolent and bad Meats, which nei¬ ther Ufe nor Reafon hath confirmed, I now come to treat of Birds and fowl, and then of Fifh, and the Fruits of the Earth, and Waters, according to my firfl Divifion. CHAP. X. Of the Flefh of Tame Birds. 'T' HAT tne Flefh of tame Fowl nourifheth more than wild Fowl, Ifaac the Phyfician proveth by three Arguments. Firjl, Becaufe they are more ufually eaten of, and fo by Cuftom (a fecond Nature) made more agreeable to our Sto¬ machs.^ Secondly, Whereas other Birds By fronts us, and are not got without Coft and Travel; j Nature hath caufed tame Birds to converfe with us, and to offer themfelves, as it were, to be killed at our pleafure; which verily file would never Of MEATS. 161 iever have done, had they been of a fmall or a ad Nourifhment. Thirdly j Wild Fowl, for the iod part, efpecially fuch as fly far for a little Teat, and trud more to their Wings than their 'eet, tho’ they are more light in Digeftion, be- aufe they are of a more fpirituous and airy Sub- tance ; yet they are not of fo abundant Nourifh- nent as tame houfhold Birds, which feed not at andom of what they can get, but of good Corn, uch as Men themfelves eat, and therefore moft |tt to nourifh Man. Now of all kind of Fowl, remember that the ounged is tendered and lighted ; old Birds Flefh > heavied; but they which are proceeding to their all Growth are mod nourifhing ; for ungrown firds, and much more Nedlers, give but a weak, hin, and gelly-like Subdance, old Birds are tough nd dry ; thofe which are almod fully grown are >f a more flefhy and firm Nature. Furthermore all Birds feeding themfelves abroad at with wholefome Meat, are of better Nourifh- nent than fuch as be cramm’d in a Coop or little foufe : for as Prifoners fmell of the Goal, fo do hey of their own Dung. And thus much generally of Birds. Now let is come to every Particular. PULLI GALLENACEI. Chickens, faith Avicen , are fo pure and fine a vleat, that they ingender no Excrements in our bodies, having in themfelves no illaudable Sub- lance : Wherefore Caius Famius being fick of a surning Fever which had almod confumed all his fleffl, was advifed by his Phyficians to eat of no Jther Meat than Chickens, whereby he recovered his i 6 z Health’j Improvement. his Confumption ; and the eleventh Year after tht fecond Carthaginian War, made a Law, tha nothing but Chickens or young Pullits fed in tht Camp fhould be brought to him at his Meals I he young Cockrels are counted the beft in thi kind, being of all Fleflh the mod: commendable nourifhing ftrongly, augmenting Seed, and ftirrin^ up Luft : hor which Purpofe, Bolejlaus Duke o Stlefia did eat thirteen Cock-chickens at a Meal.j whereof he died without having his Purpofe fulfil- ( led, becaufe he knew not how to ufe fo whole- ; fome a Creature. We do not amifs in England to eat fodder Chickens and Bacon together; for if they were eaten firft, and Bacon after, they would over-i foon be digefted ; and if they were eaten after Ba-t con, they would be corrupted : but they are bed being roafted, becaufe they are a moift Meat; and if they be fauced with Sorrel and Sugar, oi with a little Butter and Grape-Verjuice, they are: a moft temperate Meat for weak Stomachs, as: Platina and Bucinus fet down; for no Man I think is fo foolilh as to commend them to Plow¬ men and Befomers. White Chickens are found by Experience to be hardeft of Digeftion, as Gilbert our Countryman writ a great while fince : yet Grinnerius preferreth them for he£Uc Perfons, becaufe they are coldeft and moifteft of Complexi¬ on. They are all bell: in Summer, as contrari- wife Pullets and Hens be beft in Winter. Cock- chickens are beft before they crow loud, Hen- chickens before the Cock offereth to tread them. GALLI. Of MEATS. 163 G A L L I. j 4 Cock’s Flefh, the more old it is, the lefs it hourifheth j but if they be young, and kept from >heir Hens, and dieted with white Bread and Vlilk, or Wheat fteept in Milk, they recover VIen out of Confumptions and helack Goat the Milk is pureft: The moft part of iens and Hares are fcurvy and leprous. C A P I. Capons of feven or eight Months Age, fatten¬ ed in an open Air, on a clean Floor with pure Heat, are preferred by all Phyficians, old or nodern, Greeks or Latins , before all Meats. And o fay the Truth, what Dilh can any Cook’s-fliop tfFord, that can be compared with a boil’d or oafted Capon ? which helpeth Appetite, openeth he Breaft, cleareth the Voice, fatteneth lean Hen, nourifheth all Men, reftoreth fick Men, mrteth none but the idle, tafteth pleafantly, di- ^efteth eafily; which is alfo more folid than the Hefh of Pullets, more tender than Cocks, more amiliar to our Nature than Pheafants or Par- ridges ; not fo dry as a Cock, to be flowly di¬ verted ; not fo moirt as a Chicken, to be foon cor- upted ; but equally affe&ed and tempered in all ^yalities, ingendering much Blood, and yet un- rtfenfive, ingendering much Seed, without un- latural Sharpnefs or Heat. Finally, the Flelh of Japons is fo mild, temperate and nourilhing, that Faventinus fears not to make it the Ground of his •eftorative Ele&uary; yea, Aloifius Mundella hinketh him to be defperately confumed, whom Capon-geilies and Cullifes cannot recover. Concerning the Preparation of them, I com- Tiend them roafted for moirt Stomachs; but be- ng boil’d with fweet Marrow in white Broth, they i 66 Health’j Improvement. they are of fpeedier, tho’ not of ftronger Nourifl: merit. Now if a Capon be fo wholefome a Meal why Ihould we not alio by Hitching up fome Vein: or fearing them in the Loins, try whether w may not likewife make Hen-caponets ? which th Italians pra&ife to good Purpofe, and make then exceeding fat; but yet in Pifanel’s Judgment the eat too moift. One Word more of the Etymology of a Capon which fome derive from the Englijh by an Irony Capon ; becaufe he hath not his Cap on : other from the Italian , Capone , that is to fay, qua pone fet it hither , becaufe it is an excellent Difli: bu I like Fritagius’ s Etymology belt of all; Capone?, dicimus quafi caput omnium . We call it a Capon faith he in the Latin, becaufe it is Caput omnium the Head or Chief of all other Meats. And thu much of a Capon, whofe Excellencies had thi Heralds known when Dr. Capon bought his Arm of them, I fee no Reafon why they Ihould hav< preferred into his Scutcheons three Cocks, all be ing nothing equivalent to one Capon. GALLI AFRICANI. MELEAGRIDES. Turkies, tho’ they be very hardly brought up and require great Coft for their feeding, yet theii Flelh is mod dainty, and worthy a Prince’s Table They were firft brought from Numidia into Turky , and thence to Europe , whereupon they were caller Turkies. There are fome which lately broughi hither certain chequer’d Hens and Cocks out o New Guinea , fpoted white and black like a Bar* ber’s Apron, whofe Flelh is like to the Flelh ol Turkies, and both of them like the Flelh of oui i Hen Of MEATS. i6 7 cns and Cock-chickens, but that they be two its hotter and moifter than ours. 7'he young- fatted in the Fields or at the Barn-door, kill- e alfo in Winter rather than in Summer, and jnged a Day and a Night before they be drefs’d, t : wholefomeft to be eaten, and of beft Nourifh- pt. Their Flefh recovereth Strength, nourifh- 1 plentifully, kindleth Luft, agreeth with every ,rfon and Complexion, faving fuch as be of too )t 3. Temper, or inclined to Rheums or Gouts j imuft be throughly roafted ; and if it be flicked ,1 of Cloves in the roafting, or when it is to be teed, which are the two beft ways to cook a fjjrkey, it will foak up the Wateriftinefs, and ,ke it of fpeedier Digeftion. P A V O N E S. Peacocks are, as Poets feign, the beloved Birds Juno ; which none durft kill in old time, for r of that jealous and revengeful Goddefs’s Dif- afure. Among the Romans Quintus Hortenfius » the firft that ever brought them to the Table, 3fe Commendation made them fo deflred, that hin a while a Peacock’s Egg was fold for ten ces of Silver, and his Carcale for twenty times much. Afterwards Marcus Lurco feeing that and lean Peacocks grew to fuch a rate, he an to cramm them fat whilft they were young, gained thereby in a Ihort time fix thoufand erces. X* that noble Epicurean Pope, made their wns into Saufages, allowing therefore every ir many hundred Ducats. It is ftrangewhat Aujim writes of Peacock’s Flefh, namely, 1 in a twelve-month it corrupteth not after it i 63 Health’^ Improvement. is drefs’d: Nay, Kiranides avoucheth, that Peacock’s Flefh will not putrefy in thirty Year: but remaineth then as found and fweet as if it ha been new killed ; which whether it proceed of th Toughnefs and Sinewy Conftitution, or the feed ing upon Serpents, as fome imagine, I will nc now determine: This I only obferve, that bein once above a Year old, their Flefh is very hare tough and melancholic, requiring a ftrong Stc mach, much Wine, and afterwards great Exe.t cite to overcome it. It is very ill for them th; are moleited with the Haemorrhoids, and fuch ; live flothfully. Concerning their Preparation, appointet them to hang upon a Hook fifteen Days, but He liabbas twice fifteen before they are drefs’d. Th: Italians , after they are drawn, fluff their Bodti full of Nettles, which fofteneth the hardefb Cheeft being laid amongft them, and then they eithe bury it in Sand, or hang it in a cold dry Plact with a great Weight at his Heels, and fo within F'orthnight it becomes very tender. Plutarch reports out of his Countrymen’s Ex periments, that an old Cock, or an old Peacock or any hard Flefh, hanging but one Night on Fig-tree, waxeth very tender by Morning; other aferibe as much to the hanging of them upon brazen Flook, which I permit to Trial, and will both as true in effect as the Reafons why the fhould be fo are learnedly difputed. As for youDf Peacocks fed at home with wholefome and pur Meat, as Bread, Corn, and Curds, no clout they are very good Meat, yeilding not only- 1 Talte extraordinarily Arrange and pleafant, If all'o giving good Nourifhment: the older fort k belt rcafted with Lard j the younger wither Of M E A T S. ,6 9 Lard : both fhould be well fouced in pure Wine ; for without it they are unwholet'ome. A N S E R E S. Galen commendeth nothing in a Goofe befide the Giblets, Stomach, and Liver, fodden in Broth j which whether Scipio Metellus, or Marcus Sejlius firft noted, Pifanellus durft not decide ; but had he been as converfant in Pliny as he might have been, he fhould have read, that a Queftion was moved in Rome , who did firft fatten Geefe? fome imputing it to Scipio, and fome to Sejlius. But Mejfalinus Cotta , without all Controverfy, was the firft that ever taught how to drefs and ufe their Giblets. Neverthelefs fince the Kings of Egypt feed ufually but on two Difhes, Geefe and Veal; either Cuftom hath made them a harm- lefs Meat, or elfe they are not fo hard, hot, aguifn, a^nd melancholic a Meat as fome fuppofe them. Jafon Pratenfis faith, that the Jews have lo hard a Flefh, fo foul a Skin, fo loathfome a Savour, and fo crooked Conditions, becaufe they eat fo many Geefe. Indeed their exceeding Watchfulnefs, muddy Difpofition, and Blacknels ot Flefh, argue a melancholic Conftitution ; yet being taken whilft they are young, green fea¬ ther’d, and well fatted with wholefome Meat, ; and eaten with Sorrel-fauce to correct their Malig¬ nity, if any Malignity can remain after fuch dieting, no doubt their Flefh is as nourifhing as lit is pleaiant and fweet. But of all others, a young Stubble-Goofe feeding itfelf fat in Wheaten rields, is heft of all, being neither of too moift |nor too dry a Flefh, but of a middle Conftitu¬ tion. If any Goofe be eaten above four Months H old, - • y 170 Health’j Improvement. old, it is badly aigefted without Garlic-fuuce, Exercife, and ftrong Drink. Fritagius , in his Creophagia , having fet down that young Geefe are over moift, and oid Geefe very aguifh, appointeth them to be both corredled in this fort: Before they be killed make them to receive the Smoke of Borax down into their Bodies three or four times together, then fluff them with Spices and fweet Herbs, and roafl them throughly ; which is a very good Way to correct their fuperfluous Moifture, but nothing available for their Aguifhnefs. Savonarola maketh Geefe of a very hot Con- flitution ; Jlbertus maketh them very cold ; their Flefh is hard to digeft, and yet more moift, faith Galen , than of any Water-Fowl befides: but their natural Feeding (hews them to be hot and dry, as Savonarola writeth ; for they drink infi¬ nitely often, delight to be in the coldeft Waters, and feed moft gladly upon Lettice, Endive, Pur- fclane, Trefoil, Ducks Meat and Sow-thiflle. They are fo tame and obfequious to them that ufually feed and diet them, that if Pliny faith Truth,they were driven, like Sheep,from Brabant and Picardy to jR. ome on foot; but I fear left whilft he did fo excefiively commend their Obedience, he did play the very Goofe himfclf. C Y G N I. Swans Flefh was forbidden the Jews, becaufe by them the hieroglyphical Sages did defcribe Hy- pocrify; for as Swans have the. white ft Feathers and the blacked Flefh of all Birds, fo the Heart of H) pocrites is contrary to their outward Appear¬ ance. So that not for the Badnefs of their Flefh, * but Of MEATS. 171 but for refembling of wicked Mens Minds they were forbidden ; for being young, they are not the worft of Meats ; nay, it they be kept in a little Pond, and well fed with Corn, their Flefh will not only alter the Blacknefs, but alfo be freed from the Unwholefomnefs: Being thus ufed, they are appointed to be the firft Difh at the Emperor of Mofcovys Table, and alfo much efleemed in Eaft-Friezland. Neverthelefs I deny not but that naturally they are unwholefome, for their Flefh is hard and black ; and all Flefh the blacker it is, the heavier it is, the whiter the lighter ; and the more red, the more inclining to Heavinefs; the lefs red, the more inclining to Lightnefs and Eafinefs of Digeftion ; which being once written for a gene¬ ral Rule, needs not, 1 hope, hereafter to be re¬ peated. A N A T E S. Tame Ducks feed filthily, upon Frogs, Toads, Mud, Water-fpiders, and all manner of venom¬ ous and foul things : Wherefore it is not untruly faid of Gefner , that the bell part of a Duck are his Feathers ; for his Flefh is hotter than that of any tame Fowl, and withal too moift, hard, grofs, of flow Digeftion, and very excremental; yea, furthermore, fo aguifh, that once or twice it brought Galen himfelf into a Fever, while he de¬ filed to try the Operation of it. Neverthelefs young Ducklings fed with grinded Malt and Cheefe-curds, drinking nothing but Milk, or Chalk-water, wax both white, fat, and foft in Flefh, giving much good Nourifhmerit, clearing the Colour of one’s Face, amending H 2 floarle- iyz Health’.? Improvement. Hoarfenefs of Throats, increafing Seed, and dis¬ pelling Wind ; wherein we may fee, that Art and Diet can make that wholefome, which Nature of itfelf hath made hurtful. PIPIONES. COLUMBjT. Tame Pidgeons are of two forts, the one great and very tame, breeding monthly, kept and fed continually: the other fed never at home but in Cad lock-time and the dead of Winter, when they can get no Meat abroad, breeding only but twice a Year, namely, at the fir ft and latter Seed-time. They are of a very hot Complexion, and dry when they are old, but whilft they are young they are hot and moift; the wilder fort is moft wholefome being killed after it hath flown a while up and down the Dove-houfe, for then they give a purer Juice, by reafon that their foggy Moifture is lef- fened by Exercife ; alfo they muft be let blood to Death under the Wing, which, tho’ Dr. HeSior affumed to himfelf as his own Invention, yet it is of no lefs Antiquity than Pliny's Writings. Be¬ ing thus newly killed, and forthwith roafted at a blazing Fire, their Flefh ingendereth great Store of Blood, recalling Heat unto weak Perfons, cleanfing the Kidneys, quickly reftoring decayed Spirits, efpecially in phlegmatic and aged Perfons,' for whom they are moft proper. In Galen's time, faith Rbafis , they only pluckt off their Heads and caft them away ; but bleeding under the Wing is far better, and maketh their Flefh more cold and whiter; in fo much that Galen is not afraid, to commend them to Perfons fick of Agues. Nay, the Italians do as ufually give them in Agues, as ; we do Chickens. Pidgeons of the firft Flight are counted better, becaufe the latter Flight is after whole-1 2 Of MEATS. they have eaten Cadloeks, which maketh them neither to eat fo fweet, nor to prove fo white and wholefome: when they cannot be had, home Pidgeons, I mean of the greater fort, are to be taken, and to be ufed in the like manner. CHAP. XI. Of the Flejh of Wild Fowl, abiding and feed¬ ing chiefly upon the Land. is no fmall Difference of Land-Fowl, A according to the Meat they feed on, and the Place they live in ; for the purer their Meat, the better Meat they are themfelves : They that feed upon Flefti or Garbage are not fo wholefome as they that feed upon good Corn, Bents, or whole¬ fome Seeds; lefs wholefome are they which feed upon Worms and Filh on the Sea-fhore, or Rivers Banks; but worft: of all other, they that feed upon Serpents, Spiders and venomous Beafts, which no doubt may prove very medicinal to cure Difeafes, but they cannot prove nouriftiing, keeping their natural Diet, to reftore Flefb. Concerning the Place wherein they live and feed, it is certain that high and dry Countries have the wholefomeft Birds ; for they which fit in low and moiff Places, are of no fweet nor wholefome Complexion. Furthermore, their manner of taking alters their P lefh ; for a Partridge taken in Flight, or a Lark dared with a Hawk, is worth ten taken with Nets, Springs and Trammels; theReafon where¬ of i^4 Health’j Improvement. of is already fet down in my Chapter of Prepara tion. : Finally, look what Bird is whiteft Flefh, tha Bird is eafieft to be digefled ; what Bird is reddef j of Flefh, is flrongeftof Nourifhment; whatfoeve is black of Flefh, is heavy to be digefled, and o flow Nourifhment; yea, fo much the heavier ant flower, by how much his Skin and Flefh appearetl blacker. " This fhall fuffice to be generally fpokei of Land-Fowl, yea of all Fowl. Now let us de fcend to their Particulars, beginning with Birds o greater Volume. T A R D JE. Biflards or Buftards, fo called for their flow Pace and heavy flying ; or as the Scots term them Gufeffards; that is to fay, Slow Geefe, feed upoi Flefh, Livers, and young Lambs out of Sowing time, and in Harveft-time then they feed upoi pure Corn. In the Summer, towards the ripen¬ ing of Corn, 1 have feen half a dozen of them li. in the Wheat Field fatting themfclves, as a Dee will do, with Eafe and Eating ; whereupon the; grow fometimes to fuch a Bignefs, that one o them weigbeth almoft fourteen Pounds. Now a they are of an extraordinary Bulk, fo likewife an they of rare Nourifhment to indifferent ftronj Stomachs, relifhing finely, reftoring Blood an< Seed, offending no part of the Body, but ftrengthen ing all. Chufe the youngeft and fatteft about All hallow-tide, for then are they heft, and diet hin a Day or two with a little Wheat-Bread, or rathe: keep him altogether faffing, that he may fcou away his Ordure j then let him bleed to death if the Neck-Veins, and having hanged three or fou Of M E A T S. 17.5 Days in a cool Place out of the Moon-fnine, either roaff it or bake it as you do a Turkey, and it will prove both a dainty and wholcfomeMeat. G R U E S. ♦ Cranes breed, as old Dr. Turner wrote unto Gefner , not only in the northern Countries amongft the Nation of Dwarfs, but alfo in our Englijb Fens. Pliny faith, that in Italy they feed much upon Grapes ; but with us they feed chiefly upon Corn, and fenny Seeds, or Bents. Theodofius efteemeth them of a cold Temperature ; but all the Arabians judge them to be hot and dry. k Certain it is that they are of themfelves hard, tough, grofs, flnewy, and ingendering melancho¬ lic Blood, unfit for found Mens Tables, ufually to be eaten of, and much more unmeet for them that be fick ; yet being young, killed with a Gof- hawk, and hanged two or three Days by the Heels, eaten with hot Galentine, and drowned in Sack, it is permitted unto indifferent Stomachs. In Plutarch 's time Cranes were counted a dainty and good Meat, fatted after this manner: Firff, they ffitched up their Eyes, and fed them in the Dark with wholefome Mixtures of Corn, Milk, and Seeds, to make them white, tender, and pleafant of Taffe : A Day before they were killed, they tempered their Meat with the Juice of that Herb, or with a good Quantity of that Seed whereof they would have their Flefh efpecially to relifh, were it Mints, Baftl, Thyme, Rofemary, Cumin, Coriander, Fennel-feed, or Anife-feed ; which Courfe if we likewife obferved in the cram¬ ming of Capons, and fattening of our Houfnojd H 4 Birds, iy6 Health*/ Improvement. Birds, without queftion they would tafte far more delicately. CICONLE, ASTERN, ARDEOLiT. Storks, Bitterns, and Herons, neither do breed, nor can breed any good Nonrifhment, feeding chiefly upon little Fifties, Frogs and Worms ; yea, the Stork delighteth in Newts, W^ater-fnakes, Adders, and bloe-worms j but except it be almoft famifhed, it will not venture upon a Toad, as Caspar us Heldelinus writeth. It was my Chance in my firft Travel into Ger¬ many, to meet one Godfrey Acbtius , chief Phyfi- ciart of Aqulfgrane , at Francfort Mart, whofe 'I reacle was there fold, and efteemed better than the Treacle of Venice , whereinto he put not the Flefti nor the Salt of Adders, but the Flcfti of a Heronfhaw, fed a long time with nothing but Rich Adders as Galen wiftieth us to chufe. Verily his Conceit was not ill; and if we pradlifed the like in England , it cannot be amifs, confidering that the fubtileft part of the Adder is, no doubt, as it were fublimed and imbibed into the Stork’s Body and P Icfh : Wherefore howfoever we ufe fuch Birds for Phyfic, yet let us not feed upon them as upon Meats, left we take Poifon inftead of Nourifhment. Nay, even all the Heronfhaws, namely, the black, white, Criel-PIeronftiaw, and the Mire-dromble, tho’ feeding fomewhat better thin the Bittern or Stork, are but of a fiftiy and ftrong Savour, unlefs they be very young", and fcarce able to fly ; yea, they are not dangerlefs being green roafted, but procure the Piles and fmarting Haemorrhoids j of all of them chufe the youngelt and fatteft, for they may be eaten fo with Of M E A T S. 177 with much Spice, Salt, or Onions, and being throughly fleept in a Draught of old Wine. Fur¬ thermore, if they be drefs’d without their Skins, they relifh far better, according to the French and the bell Fafhion, who alfo fluff" them full of fweet Herbs, and draw them with fine and fmall Lard. PHAS'IANA. Pheafants are of fo excellent a Conflitution, as well for Subfiance as Temperature, that from them as from a Centre, Phyficians do judge the Complexion of every Fowl, being of a middle Conflitution betwixt a brown Hen and aPartridge; or, asPifanellus will have it, betwixt a Capon and a Partridge, neither fo moifl as the firfl, nor fo dry as the fecond, but exceeding both in Tafle, Temperature and Goodnefs. Galen,' Rhafis, A~ \vicen , Aver ho is, Arnalchis dt Villa nova , Trallian , and all Writers, fo prefer a Pheafant for. the foundefl and beft meat of all others; and the Frenchmen think a Pheafant to be called Fai-fan , becaufe it maketh a found Man. Neverthelefs Savanarola willeth Men not to eat them often in Health, that when Sicknefs cometh they may do them the more Good. They are beft in Winter, and the young ones are fittefl for weak Stomachs; the old ones are to hang three or four Days by the Heels, and then being drefs’d, they will eat tender. In he£tic Fevers, and upon Recoveries from a long or violent Sicknefs, no Meat fo wholefome as Pheafant-pouts; but to flrong Sto¬ machs it is inconvenientefl, efpecially to Plowmen and Labourers, who eating of Pheafants, fall fud- denly into Sicknefs, and Shortnefs of Breath, as Pifantllus hath wittily, and perhaps truly, noted. H 5 AT- 178 Health’j Improvement. ATTAGENES MYRIC 7 E. Heath-cocks, whilft they are young, are little Inferior to a Pheafant, very well rel fning, and be- ing of good Digeftion ; when they wax old, all their Flefh proves black, faving the Brawn next their Breaft-bone, which is ever white, tender, firm, and wholefome. P E R D I C E S. Partridges have a temperate Heat, but incline to Drynefs in the fecond Degree ; they feed upon Snails, Chick-weed, Tops of Leeks, and all man¬ ner of good and ■wholefome Corn ; they are never fubjedf to Pips, nor any rheumatic Difeafes, which maketh them to live till they be almoft twenty Years old : But beware of old Partridges, for they are as dangerous as old Beef; being young and tender, they agree exceeding well with cold, weak, waterifh, and pale Bodies, drying up a moift Stomach, {Lengthening the retentive Power, eafily turning info pure Blood, fattening the Body, and increafing Lull. They muft not be eaten, faith Galen , being newly killed, but hang a while in the cold Air: And the Wings and Breaft of a Partridge, as alfo of all Birds fave a Woodcock, trufting to their Flight, are better than the Legs and Thighs: Nay, the Legs and Thighs of Par¬ tridges are thought by Sethi, to have an extraor¬ dinary Weakness in them, caufing them to go as if their Back or Ridge Bone were parted in funder, whereupon perhaps they had their Name, and were called Part-ridges. Chufe them that are young and fat, killed with the HawkatSouce, or Their Broth is good elfe' at Foot after a long Flight. Of MEATS. 179 good for a weak Stomach, for the Jaundice, and a tainted Liver. If you feethe them in Capon- Broth with Marrow, Eggs and Bread, a Panado made of that Broth is exceeding nourifhing, being eaten next one’s Heart. But if you would have a ftrensthening Broth indeed, then feeth them in Broth wherein Chines of Mutton have firft boiled. Roafted Partridge is beft: for mod Stomachs, it it be not too dry roafted ; for then it is rather Phyftc to ftay a Loofenefs, than fit Meat to nourifh or reftore Flefh. They are beft at the End of Har- veft, before they have either trod or laid. RALLiE TERRESTRES. Rails of the Land, (for there is alfo a Water- Rail, which the Venetians efteem fo highly) de«- ferve to be placed next the Partridge, for their Flefh is as fweet as their feeding good, and they are not without Caufe preferred to Noblemen’s T ables. G ALLIN AGINES & RUSTICULiT. Woodcocks and Snipes are fo light of Digeftion, and fo good in Temperature, that they agree with moft Mens Stomachs, efpeciaily at their firft coming in, or rather a Month after, when they have refted themfelves after their long Flight from beyond the Seas, and are fat through Eafe and good Feeding upon fat Worms, and Snails, lying- in Trees. Av'tcen and Albertus dreamed that W r oodcocks and Snipes fed upon Seeds ; whereas indeed no Bird with a long piked, crooked, and narrow Bill can pick them up; but where they perceive a Worm’s Hole, as I have feen Snipes to do, there they thruft: in their Bill as far as they can; and if the Worm lie deep, they blow in H 6 fuch i8o Health’j Improvement, fuch a Breath or Blaft of Wind, that the Worm* come out for fear as in an Earthquake. If Worm; fail, then they pick Snails out of their Shells, and likewife devour them. Towards their going out, either of them wax drier and worfe relifhing. Woodcocks require the ftronger Stomach, Snipes the weaker; both are of laudable Nourifhment, but chiefly the Snipe. There is a kind of Wood-Snipe in DevonJIrire, greater than the common Snipe, which never comes into Shallows nor Springs of Water. And in Holland I remember Snipes never living out of S ings, as great almolf as our Woodcocks, called Hjrren-Schnepfs , becaufe they are in comparifon the Lords or Chief of Snipes, or that they are only fit for Lords Tables, which Gefncr therefore alfo termeth by the Name of Rujliada Regalis. COLUMBiE PETRICOLAi. L 1 VIAL PALUMBES. TURTURES. Wild Doves be efpecially four in Number, Rock-Doves, Stock-Doves, Ring-Doves, and Turtle-Doves. Rock-Doves breed upon Rocks by the Sea-fide, but never far from Corny Downs, whether in Seed and Harveft-timc they fly for Meat, living all the Year befides upon Mail and Ivy-berries. The other three forts of Doves feed alfo upon Corn, Mali, Haws, Juniper-berries, Ivy-berries, Hurtle-berries, and Holly-berries, when they are ripe. Alarcus Cato fatted young Ring-Doves with Bean-Meal made into Pafie with new Milk; and Didynius , Turtle-Doves with Bread flteept in Wine, which Way they are made Of M EATS. 181 made of excellent Tafte and Nourifhment, tho’ alfo undieted they are good, being under half a Year’s Age. Avicen , contrary almoft to the Opi¬ nions of all other Writers, commendeth the Flefh of Turtles above all other, as being of a good Nourifhment, eafily digefted, quickening Wit and Memory, increafing Seed, and (lengthening both Stomach and Guts exceeding well. But Ifaac reproveth that Opinion, unlefs it be underftood only of young Turtles, or fuch as have been fed and fatted in the Houfe by Art, with moil'd and cooling Nourifhments: For otherwife, as he truly avoucheth, all manner of wild Doves are fo hot, hard, and dry, that they cannot prove of any indifferent Nourifhment. COTURNICES. Quails have gotten an ill Name ever fince Pliny iccufed them for eating of Hemlocks and Bear- foot, by reafon whereof they breed Cramps, :rembling of the Heart and Sinews; yea, tho’ Hercules loved them above all other Meats, in fo nuch that lolaus fetcht him out of a Swoon when le was cruelly wounded by Typhon with the Smell )f a Quail; yet with much eating of them he fell nto the falling Evil, which ever fince hath been ermed Hercules ’s Sicknefs. Avicen thinketh that hey bring Cramps not only by feeding on Ilclle- >orus and Hemlocks, but alfo from a natural in¬ born Property. Monardus writeth thus of them ; . allow not the Flefh of Quails neither in the spring nor Winter, not becaufe the ancient Fa- hers of Phyfic do condemn them, but becaufe Reafon is againft them : for in the Spring and iummer-time they are too dry, ingendering rather 'Melancholy than Blood : in Autumn and Winter they 182 Hea ith’s Improvement. they are too moift; yea, tho’they be fat, y< are they of fmall Nourifhment, caufing loathin' of Stomach, and Corruption of Meat. " B apt if I Fiera, Amatus Lufit anus , yea, Avicen , Rhafi Jfaac and Galen, are of the fame Judgment; on] Arnoldus cle Villa nova , in his Commentary upc the Salernitan School, affirnieth them in forr Countries to be of fine Subftance, good Juic< and eafy Digeffion : nay, Kiranides faith th; their Broth cleanfeth the Kidneys, and their Fief nourifheth indifferently well. Were I here t give my Cenfure, I would be of either Side, an yet defend the Truth likewife ; for I nothin doubt but Quails Flefh is bad, as Ducks Flefh i of its own Nature, and heavy to be digefted 1 neverthelefs being taken young, before they hav eaten of unwholefome Weeds, and fatted wit pure Wheat, Hemp-feed, Coriander-feed ar Milk, or Chalk-water inftead of Milk, I mat no queftion that their Flefh is laudable, and ma be counted a good and dainty Meat. And here by the way Jet us marvel at or thing, that Quails are generally forbidden becaui their Flefh ingendereth the falling Evil; and yt Galen commendeth their Brains, he princip; Seat of that great Evil, as an Antidote again the fame. What need I write that when th Jfrdelites loathed Manna, Numb. xi. 31. Quai were fent them as the beft and daintieft Meat < all other ? And if fome curious Paraphraft woul therefore fay it was the worft, becaufe whilfl: th Flefh was in their Mouths, many thoufands < them fell in the Wildernefs: We anfwer, that 1 was not through the Badnefs of the Food, bu the Naughtinefs of their luffing, and temptin God. PLU Of MEATS. ft 183 PLUVIALES. Plovers feed upon no folid Meat, and therefore being new, have no need of drawing; their Meat is chiefly the Scum or Excrements of Worms lying about their Holes, or "of Worms themfelves; yet are they of a very fweet, delicate, and fine Flefh, being taken when they are fat in Winter-time ; and the grey Plover is fo highly efteemed, that this Proverb is raifedof aourious and malecontent- ed Stomach ; A grey Plover cannot pleafe him. Yet to fome the green Plover feemeth more nourifh- ing, and to others the Lapwing, which indeed is favoury and light of Digeftion, but nothing com¬ parable to Plovers. C U C U L I. Cuckows Flefh, whilft it is a Neftler, is by Perot highly extolled ; but when once it comes to feed itfelf, it is ill relifhing, hot and leprous. Gejher afketh, how any Man dare be fo fooiifh or venturous as to eat of a Cuckovv, whofe much fpitting argueth a corrupt and excremental Flefh ; yet by Experience we find the young ones to be good Meat; yea, Pliny and AriJlotU prefer them for Sweetnefs above mc'ft Birds: And albeit the old ones feed filthily upon Dorrs, Beetels, and ve¬ nomous Spiders, yet the young ones are fed by the Titling, their Fofter-dam, with Gnats, Flies, and red Worms, having no venomous nor bad Quality. F E D O JE. _ Godwits are known to be a fenny Fowl, living with Worms about Rivers Banks, and nothing fweet or wholefome, till they have been fatted at home 184 Health’/ Improvement. home with pure Corn ; but a fatGodwit is fo fin and light a Meat, that Noblemen, yea, and Mer chants too, by your Leave, ftick not to buy then at four Nobles a Dozen. Lincolnjhire afforded great Plenty of them, elfewhere they are rare ii England wherefoever I have travelled. ERYTHOPODES & GLOTTIDES. Redfhanks alfo and Gluts feed in the Fens upoi Red-feeds, Bents, and Worms, and are of n< bad Tafte, nor evilNourifhment. OCHROPODES. Smirings live in waterifh Copfes with Worms and are a fine and delicate Meat. P I C I. Pyesor Haggifies feed upon Flefh, Eggs, Worm: and Ants; their Flefh is very hard and loathfome. /unlefs they be very young, and then are they only the Meat of Poverty. G R A C U L I. Jays feed upon Acorns, Beech-maft am Worms, and never came into the Number oi good Nourifhments, becaufe they have themfelves. and procure unto others the falling Evil. P I C I M A R T I I. Wood-Peckers are fufpe£ted of the like Malig¬ nity, tho’ they feed upon Timber-Worms, the moft dainty Difh, and moil highly efteemed amongft the Romans and Phrygians. ORIOLl Of MEATS. 185 O R I O L I. Witwols are of excellent good Nourifhment, ceding upon Bees, Flies, Snails, Cherries, Plums, ,nd all manner of good Fruit. arquatula; terrestres. Stonechatters feed as they do, and are of a very r 3 ood Tafte and Juice. I S P I D A. The King’s-filher feedeth moft upon Water- vorms and little Fifties, and is of a bad Relifti, ind worfe Nouriftiment. COCCOTHRAUSTES. The Clotbird, called fometimes a Smatch, or in Arling, is as big almoft as a Thrufii, feeding :hiefly upon Cherries, and Cherry-kernels. NUCIFRAGA. The Nope feedeth upon Mall, Nuts, and Cherries. S I T T A. So alfo doth the little Pyet, which we call a Nutjobber. U P U P JE. Houps were not thought by Dr. Turner to be found in England , yet I faw Mr. Serjeant Good- rans kill of them in Charingdon Park, when he did very fkilfully and happily cure my Lord Pem¬ broke at Ivyckurcb'.- they feed upon Hurtle-berries, 1 ind Worms, but delight to feed moft: upon Graves, ind Man’s Dung, and ftinking Soil; wherefore they deferve to be counted very unwholefome. TURDI 186 Health’* Improvement. TURDI & TURDEUE ANGLICANS. Thrufhes-and Mavifes feed moll upon Haw Sloes, Miile-berries, and Privot-berries; whic being lean, deferve, as 'uintus Curtins ufed thei at Ctsjar's Table, to be flung out at the Wir dows ; but being young, fat, and in Seafon, an by cunning drawing, rid of their Gall, they d< ferve the nourifhing in Lucullus' s Cages, and to l commended by Phyficians to Pompey’s Table for moft wholefome Meat. TURDI EXOTICI. Felfares are of the like Food, and give almo as good Nourifhment, yea, better, when Jun per-berries be ripe, for then all their Flelh is per fumed with the Scent thereof. M E R U L JE. ' Blackbirds are preferred by Baptiji Fiera far be fore Thrufhes, Throftels or Felfares, as bein nothing fo ffrong, hot, nor bitter; Ttralliani commendeth all alike. Their Food is on litt! Grafhoppers, Worms, Hurtle-berries, Juniper berries. Ivy-berries, Bay-berries, and Haws ; the are fufpe£led to be a melancholic Meat, becaui they be never found but alone and folitary, where upon the Latins call them Merulas , that is to lay Solitarias. S T U R N I. Stares Flelh is dry and favoury, and good againf all Poifon, if Kiranides be not miftaken. Gab in one Place compares them for Goodnefs, wit! Partridge, Thrufh, and Blackbirds ; in anothei Place he difprai'ith them as much for their il Juice Of MEAT S. - 187 uice, hard Digeftion, and bad Nourifhment ; |/hich neverthelefs are both true, that being un- erftood of young Stares fed with wholefome Jeat, tliis of old Stares, who delight to feed of nwholefome Meat as well as wholefome, namely, femlocks, Dwale, and fuch like. Amongft this Treatife of the greater fort of .and Birds, I had almoft forgotten Owds, Rooks, 'rows, and Cadeffes, N O C T U M. Concerning Owls, when they be once old, ley feed upon Mice, Frogs, Grafhoppers, and 11 kind of Flefh. Rabbi Mofes in his Aphorifms lith, that the Flefii of young Owls is dainty and ood, ftrengthening the Mind, and diverting deiancholy and Madnefs: yea, I have heard ertain Noblemen and Gentlemen avouch, that 10 young Cuckow or Partridge is a finer Meat. CORVI LEGUMINALES. Rooks cannot be ill Meat when they are young, >r they feed chiefly upon pure Corn; but their kin is tough, black, and bitter. C O R V U S. The Carrion Crow is generally condemned, nd worthily defpifed of all Men ; as alfo the Ca- efle or Jack-daw, which is not more unhappy in Conditions than bad of Nourifhment. Now we are come to treat of fmall Birds of the .and, which we will divide according to the Or¬ el' of the Alphabet; having firft admonifhed you, hat no fmall Birds muft be over-much fodden, or r-y roafled ; for then their nourifhing Moillure is jon taken out 5 neither are they to be given to ftrong 188 Health’j Improvement. ftrong Stomachs, left they be converted into Ch< )er, when elfe they would wholly turn into go< Blood. Finally, young Birds muft not hang ioi before they be drefted ; for they are of an ai Subftance which will not be foon evaporated. B let us confider every one particularly in his Place MONTI FRIN GIL LIE. Bramblings are a kind of finall Birds, feedii chiefly upon Seeds, Sloes, and Hawthorn-kernel R U B E T R JE. Buntings feed chiefly upon little Worms. PYRRHACIA. Bulfinches feed not only upon little Worm but alfo upon Hemp-feed, and the Blofloms < Pear-plums and Apple-trees. CITRINELL£ Citrinels or Straw-coloured Finfhes be ver fmall Birds, feeding chiefly of white and blac< Poppy Seed, but efpecially of the wild Popp} called Red-weed. CERTHI£ Creepers feem to be a kind of Titmice, livin upon the Worms which ingender in and betwh the Barks of Trees. F R I N G I L L M. / Finches for the moft part live upon Seeds, efpe¬ cially the Gold-finch, which refufeth to eat of afl) thing elfe. ACANTFIIS Of MEATS. 189 ACANTHIS ATLANTICA. So alfo doth the Canary, Finch or Fifkin; yet e Bull-finch in Hunger feeds upon fmall Worms; id the Green-finch upon Horfe-dung and Nuts frorty Weather. ALAND!. Larks are of three forts; Field Larks, Wood arks, and Heath Larks. The firft fort feeds >on Corn Seeds and Worms. The fecond chiefly ion Worms. The third upon Worms and Heath :ed. Some of each fort are high crefted like a apwing; others uncrefted, which are counted ie more wholefome. Their Temperament is hot id dry in the fecond Degree, unlefs they be Dung and fat, and then they fcarce exceed the rft Degree. Galen and Rhafis write, that as leir Broth loofeneth, fo their Flefh bindeth the elly. LINARIL Linnets chiefly feed upon Flax Seed; but for a leed they eat alfo the Seed of Hemp and Thirties. A P O D E S. Martinets are either fmooth or hairy legg’d ; or neither of them have perfect Feet, but Stumps lftead of Feet. Baptijla Flera , in his Treatife f Birds, exclaimeth againft them, and calleth hem Beggars Meat, ingendering moft hot and fe- erilh Blood, fitter to be eaten as a Medicine to juicken Eye-fight and Memory, than as a whole- ome or nourilhing Meat; but being-taken when hey are new fledg’d, Experience warranteth them | dainty and good Meat, except they be over oafted. LUCINLfi. i$o Health’j Improvement. LUCINI/E. Nightingales, as Martial faid, are nothii| worth when their Breath is departed ; for as the feed filthily in the Fields upon Spiders and Ant fo their Flefh is unwholefome at the Table. PARI MAJORES. Oxeys or great Titmice, feed, as ordinal Titmice do, upon Caterpillars, Blofloms of Tree Bark-Worms and Flies; but their Flefh is ui wholefome. RUBECULiE, Robin-red breads feed upon Bees, Flies, Gnat Walnuts, Nuts, and Crums of Bread ; and ai edeemed alight and good Meat. PASSERES. Sparrows of the Houfe feed commonly on tF bed Corn. They are hot and dry almod in th third Degree, ingendering hot and aguifh Blooi 1 he bed are the younged, fatted, and wildef Irallianus commends lean Sparrows only to fuc as are fick of the Tympany ; and young Cock fparrows Flefh, as well as their Stones and Brains to fuch as be cold of Nature, and unable to Vcnu Sports. Halyabhas willeth fuch Aden to mine young Cc.ck-fparrows with Eggs and Onions, an to eat them in a Gally-mawfry ; and perhaf you may find them a better Medicine than Di 'Julius ’’s Bottle, that is faid to have cod 20 /. Pint; but the red and Hedge Sparrows feed il and are both unwholefome. HIRUNDINES. Swallows, be they either Houfe-Swailows, 0 Bank-Swallows, are of the Nature and Opcratioi to Of M E A T S. I 9 I Martlets, but that they are efteemed the hotter both. C U R R U C A. The Titling, Cucknel, or unfortunate Nurfe, r theCuckow ever lays her Egg in the Titling’s •ft) feeds upon Gnats, Flies, and Worms; it i very hot Bird, coming in and going out with ■ • Nightingale, but of a delicate Tafte. ; pari. Titmice are of divers Shapes with us in England ; ne be long, others be very fhort tail’d \ feme ye black Heads, fome blue, fome green, fome [jin, and fome copped \ all of them feed but ill, jl nourifh worfe. MOTACILLiE. Wagtails live upon Flies, Worms, and fat 'th, being no bad Meatwhilft they are young ; efs fome, becaufe their Tail is ever trembling, IF therefore divine that they are ill for the king Pally. R E G U L I. Wrens feed finely, and fometimes fill them- r es fo full of little Flies, that their Bellies are J to burft. Their Flelh being falted, cureth ingullions, and the Stone not confirmed ; but Man ever wrote that they give good Nourilh- nt. galguli. Fellow Hammers feed, as the mod part of trnice, of Seeds and Grain ; namely, the Seeds white and red Rofes, Poppy, Burs, Thirties, ccory and Endive, or, In the Winter-time ng fat, they are counted wholefome : at other ies they are lean and alfo bitter. CHAP. 192 Health’.? Improvement. , CHAP. XII. 1.0/ the Flejh of Wild Fowl , abiding an feeding chiefly upon the Waters. SYGNI SYLVESTRES. O F all Water Fowl, the wild Swan is tl biggeft and fatteft in outward Shew : but, l faid of tame Swans, it refembleth a Hypocrit for his Flefh is black, melancholic, and hard Di a eftion, tho* not fo hard as the tame, by re fon of his much flying. ANSERES SYLVESTRES. Wild Geefe are for the fame Reafon better th tame, for their high and long Flight breedt Tendernefs of Body, and expelleth many gr| and heavy Vapours ; but of all other the Beig< der is the belt and lighteft. anates fer/e. Wild Ducks feed chiefly upon a green^narr leaved Grafs, called therefore Ducks-Grafs Crefcentius , which lieth upon the Waters in Mo< Ponds and Plalhes, all Winter long: but they likewife the Leaves, Seeds, and Roots of ot Water Plants, and alfo Worms, Spawns of Hi and Frogs, young Sedge, fat Mud, Water-fpid and all venomous and foul Things : they are lefs letcherous than Cock-fparrows, who, as often treading they kill themfelves, and live Of M E A T S. ,93 (ill they be two Years old, fo wild Ducks by often treading kill their Hens. ANATES MUSCARLE. But there is a kind of wild Duck, called Anas Mufcaria , becaufe it eats nothing but Flies ; which is of as wholefome and good Nourifhment, as the other is bad and heavy of Digeftion. BRANTS. Barnicles both breed unnaturally by Corruption, and tafte very unfavoury. Poor Men eat them, rich Men hate them, and wife Men rejeft them when they have other Meat. QU E R Q_U ED ULJE. Teals and Widgins feed alike upon Worms, Herbs, Roots and Seeds; commonly they are very fat and fweet of Tafte, much to be efteemed above wild Ducks or Geefe, yet fufpeded of ill Juice by many Authors. T O T A N I. Pool Snipes live wholly upon Fifh, and there¬ fore have a ftrong and uncouth Relifh. MERGANSERES. Shell-drakes, or the Ducks of Italy , are of moft pleafant Tafte, feeding purely themfelves, ind us as ftrongly ; fometimes they wax fo fat, that their Feathers being pull’d off, their Body lath weighed twelve Pound Weight. URINATRICES. ^ Divers feed moft upon Reeds, Reed-Roots, and ^addis-Worms breeding in them. i \ SCAR- s94 HealthV Improvement. SCARBOIDES. Such likewife is the Dobchicks Food ; but it is -of a ftrong Smell, and fatter and tenderer than the moft part of Fowls that be cloven-footed. F U L I C M. Coots feed upon Reeds, Mud, Grafs, little Snails, and fmall Fifhes they are of a ftrong and muddy Savour, beft in Autumn, but never whole- fome. N I G R I T JE. Moor-cocks and Moor-hens, as alfo Pocards, be of the like Nature with Coots, fave that a fat Pocard is counted a dainty, tho’ not a wholefome Meat. P I C I MARINI. Sea-pies, as Dr. Cajus writeth, refemble other Pies in Colour, but they have whole Feet like Water Fowl; they feed upon Spawn, Frogs, and Fry of Fifh, and are but of a bad Tafte. M E R G I. j Cormorants, be they grey or black, feed moft of Fifh and Frogs, but efpecially of Eels, and relifh badly. A R CLU ATI. Curtues feed wholefomely upon Cockles, Cer- vifles, Mufcles, and Periwinkles, which maketh them to have no ill Tafte, and to be counted re- ftorative amongft the French , if they be fat. GULONES ALBI & CINEREI. White Gulls, Grey Gulls, and Black Gulls, {commonly termed by the Name of Plungers and Water-crows) are rejedled of every Man as a fifhy Meat; neverthelefs being fed at home with new/ l Curds Of MEATS. l 9 5 Curds and good Corn till they be fat, you {hall feldom tafte of a lighter or better Meat. * PUFINA BRITANNICA. Puffins being Birds and no Birds, that is to fay. Birds in Shew, and Fifti in Subftance, or, as one may juftly call them, feather’d Fifties, are of ill Tafte, and worfe Digeftion, how dainty foever they feem to ftrange Appetites, and are permitted i?y Popes to be eaten in Lent. ERYTHROPODES. Redlings or Water-Redlhanks feed as Water- Rails do, and be of tire like Nouriftnnent. RALE IE AQUATICS. Water-Rails are preferred in Italy before Thrufhes or Quails; they feed upon Water-fnails nd Water-flies, and the Worms breeding in the loots of Reeds : They be very fweet and pleafant '/ ^ a ^ e » giving alfo a fine and wholefome Nou- ifhment. L A R I. Sea-Mews and Sea-Cobs feed upon Garbage nd Fifti, thought therefore an unclean and bad leat; but being fatted, as Gulls ufe to be, they Iter their ill Nature, and become good. plated. i Shovelars feed moft commonly upon the Sea- Daft on Cockles and Shell—fifh ; being taken home id dieted with new Garbage and good Meat, tey are nothing infeiior to fatted Gulls. IT I 2, C H A P, 196 Health^ Improvement. CHAP. XL Of the Inwards and Outwards both of BIRDS and BEASTS. T T Aving hitherto fpoken of the Flefh of Beafts -*-•* and Fowls, it remaineth now to fpeak of thofe Parts which are not properly Flefh, but ei¬ ther of another, or a mingled Nature; namely, their Fat, Marrow, Brains, Lungs, Livers,Tripes, Stomachs, &c. together with their Eyes, Ears, Nofes, Feet, Pinions, Tails, Rumps, Udders, Stones, and Skins; whereof I will write in order. F A T. Fat of Beafts, as it was forbidden the Ifraelltes by God himfelf, for fome Caufe unto himfelf beft known ; fo there be many Reafons to perfuade us not to eat of the fame: for it takes away Appe¬ tite, gluts the Stomach, hardly digefteth, turneth wholly to Excrements, and decayeth the reten¬ tive Powers, efpecially if it be the Fat of greater Beafts, or the greater fort of Birds : for the Fat of Rabbit-fuckers, and little Birds, and fmall Chickens, is not difcommendable, becaufe it is foon and lightly overcome of an indifferent Sto¬ mach. Of fat Beafts and Birds notwathftanding, the Lean is fweeteft, fo they be not exceeding fat through cramming, but upon their own Feeding, by reafon that it is bafted and fupplied w r ith the Oilinefs thereof, and made both tender and of good Relifli. Wherefore let fome commend lard Oj M* E ATS. jgy and fat Broths never fo much, and flap it up as greedily as they lift, yet they will reward us in the End with many Difeafes, unlefs their Stomachs be exceeding ftrong and good. MARROW. Marrow is the fineft Part, or, as it were, the Sweat of Fat, fecretly conveyed into Bones ; fweet, undtuous, and pleafant of Tafte, nourilhing them whofe Bodies be dry, and Stomachs able to digeft it. It is fodden ufually with Capons, Cock- rels and Hens, in a nourifhing white Broth, and alfo dainty Pies be made thereof; but I have known many Men to have furfeited of them, and therefore I dare not generally allow of Marrow. Of'all Marrows, I find the Marrow of a Deer eafieft to digeft, next of a young Mutton, and Beef Marrow to be the heavieft. The Marrow of a Goat is very offenfive, and the Marrow of Lambs or Calves are not good, becaufe they are crude, bloody, and imperfedl for want of Age. brains. The Egyptians thought it a capital Offence to eat the Head of any thing, for the Brains-fake, wherein they thought the Soul of every living thing to be placed. And Plutarch faith, that many things were thought delicate in his time, which no Man before deftred or dared to tafte, as the Brains of Birds and Beafts. How abjedt a thing Brains were in old time, appeareth in UlyJJes ’s fcoffing of Agamemnon, comparing him with a Calf’s Brain, as with a mo ft abjedt and vile thing, which all Men caft away. And verily Brains for the moft part are exceeding phlegmatic, of grofs Juice, hard Paflage, flow Concodlion, great I 3 Heavi- 298 HealthV Improvement. Heavinefs, and fo offenfive to the Stomach, that being eaten laft, or with any fat Meat, they trouble the fame exceedingly, and procure Vomit; wherefore we do well to eat the Brains of Calves, Lambs, Kids, and Pigs, at the beginning of Din¬ ner or Supper, for were they eaten laft, through their unduous fuperfiuous Moifture, we fhould bring up all. Likcwile I commend the toafting of Pigs Brains at the Fire, being the moifteft of all other; the thorough roafting of Hares Brains, and Rabbits Brains ; and the mingling of Sage, Salt, Pepper, and Vinegar with Calves Brains. Concerning the Brains of Birds, none are abso¬ lutely commendable, but of fuch Fowl as be of a temperate Conftitution, as Cocks, Chickens, Ca¬ pons, Pullets, Partridge and Pheafant. Alfo the Brains of roafted Woodcocks. Snipes, Blackbirds, and. all fmall Birds, are accounted wholefome; but the Brains of great Birds, Water-Fowl, Pidgeons, and all forts of wild Doves, are counted by the old and learned Arabians very dangerous; only Quails Brains are commended by Galen againft the Falling Sicknefs, and Cranes Brains again!! the Haemorrhoids. TONGUES. The Tongues of Beafts feem to be wholly of a fiefhy Subftance ; which if we deny not becaufe it is full of Mufcles, yet verily the Flefli thereof is more fpongy and oily than of any Flefh befides. JEfop and Thales called Tongues the beft and the worft part ot the Body , but as an Als s Bones make the fweeteft Regal Pipes of all others, thci ' the living Afs be leaft -mufical; fo let the living Tongues of any Bealls be never fo bad, yet they are without companion the fweeteft Meat of all others, Of MEATS. J 99 thers, when dead and drefs’d : For the Tongues of Beafts are foft, temperate, light, moift and fpongv, never faulty of themfelves, but marred oftentimes by Mifcookery. As for Birds Tongues, they are generally exceeding dry, hard, andgrifly. Parrots Tongues excepted, neither could I ever find any Caufe, but becaufe a curious and fump- tuous Fool would have it fo, why Helicgabahis Should have Pies made of Nightingales Tongues. CHINE-MARROW. Pith-Marrow, running all along from the hin¬ der Brain, whereof no doubt it is a Portion, to the End of the Back-bone or Chine of Beafts, is no doubt much harder and drier than the Brain itfelf, efpecially towards the further End of the Back ; which Drynefs makes it lefs loathfome to the Stomach than Brains are ; yea, furthermore, it ftrengtheneth that Body which is able to con- codt it. Many are of Opinion, that Caudles made ftrong with the Pith of a Steer, and Yolks of new-laid Eggs, do by a fecret Property reftore Nature, and recover the Weaknefs of Loins caufed by Venery. Montagnana maketh a fmgular Con- fedfion of divers Marrows to that Purpofe, which I will not fet down in Englijh , left Wantons be too bold to follow their Follies. HEARTS. Hearts of all living Creatures, whilft Life en- dureth, are moft adtive and effedtual to many Purpofes ; but after Death there is no Part of lefs i Ufe, nor lefs Nourifhment ; yea, they are harder of Digeftion than any Entrail, concodfed with no fmall Difficulty, tho’ chofen from the youngeft I 4 and 200 Health’j Improvement.. and tendereft fort of Fowls or Beads ; yet if any do overcome them, they give no weak nor bad Nourilhment. LUNGS. Lungs of Beads are fofter than the Heart, Liver, Kidneys and Spleens ; eafier therefore of Ccncodion, tho’ of a more phlegmatic and frothy Subdance. Tacuinus commendeth them greatly to young Men fick of hot Agues, becaufe they both temper their hot and dry Difpodtion, as alfo for that they be light, and foon concoded. But he faith, that therefore they are ill for drong and labouring Men, whom fo light a Meat cannot dif¬ fidently nourifh, but is more likely to putrefy their Stomachs. The Lungs of Foxes are no wholefome Meat, but rather Medicine to fore Lungs. LIVERS. ^ Livers of all Beads give but grofs Nourifhment, and are hardly conceded, and of flow Paflage ; unlefs it be of Sucklings, or of young Swine fed v ith pure Meat. The Livers of tame Fowl, as Hens, Capons, Chickens, Ducklings and Geefe, fatted with wholefome and white Meat, pleafe the Tade, clear the Eye-fight, agree w'ith the Sto¬ mach, and increafe Blood. Cranes Livers fodden in the Broth of Cicers afiwage the Pain of the Back and Kidneys, but they are of a fmall and bad Nourifhment. The Livers of Larks and Snipes are very fweet and redorative, as alfo of a Wood- ' cock, which hath of all other Birds (for. proportion ©f his Body) the greated Liver. TRIPES. Of M E A T S. 201 'TRIPES. Stomachs, Paunches, and Guts of Beafts, are far harder in Subftance than their X lefh, requiring much Time e’er they can be conco&ed, deferving fcarce the Name of Meat, becaufe they give fo little Nouriihment, and fo much Excrement: yea, all Tripes and Chitterlings made of elder Beafts (be they Oxen, Swine, or Deer) tho’ accidentally through foucing they procure Appetite, yet natu¬ rally they are foul and unvvholefome Meat, ingen¬ dering Scabs, Itches, and Leprofies, and other filthy Difeafes like themfelves : yet the Fafte of Tripes did feem fo delicate to the Romans , that they often killed Oxen for the I ripes fake, not caring what became of the Flefh, till fuch time as their licentious Appetite was bridled by Banifh- ment if any fhould attempt the like again. But the Maws or Gizzards of Hens, Capons, Chic¬ kens, and Geefe efpecially, are- both tender and pulpy, and are fuppofed extraordinarily to corro¬ borate the Stomach. So likewife the Guts of Larks, Woodcocks and Snipes, give no bad Nou- rifhment, being prefently roafted as foon as the Birds be taken. MILTS. Spleens of Beafts give an unpleafantTafte, and a worfe Nourifhment; and no marvel, for if Livers, being the Fountains of Blood, be of hard and unwholefome Juice, how can Spleens, the Sinks and Sponges of the Liver, prove wholefome Meat? Only fuch Hogs Spleen is commended which hath fed long upon Tamarifk, whereby all grofs, four, and melancholic Humours have been confumed in it. Paracelfus is the firffc that eve r X 5 com- 202 Health”* Improvement. commended an Ox’s Spleen as available to haden the Courfes of Women. KIDNEYS. Kidneys of Beads (for Birds have none, the Bat excepted, which alfo hath Breads, and giveth Milk) be of a middle Temper betwixt Flefh and Kernels, of hard Conco&ion and ill Juice, efpe- daily in the greater forts of Beads, always keep¬ ing a Smack of that which pafleth through them, and being too drong for mod Stomachs ; the Kid¬ neys of fucking Lambs, Calves, Pigs, and Kids, are the tendered and the bed, but when they have left fucking they are all too rank. KERNELS and SWEET-BREADS. Kernels of Beads, efpecially fuch as ly about, the Throat and Bread of fucking Calves, Kids and Lambs, are a very good Meat being well di- geded, drawing near to the Noumhment of Flefh; but if they be not well digeded, they breed raw and phlegmatic Humours. Our Countrymen do well fird to road and then to boil the Sweet-bread of Beads, for thereby all fuperfluous Moidure is confumed. Kernels of Fowls ly chiefly about the Rump on either Side thereof, and are, as many -Jake it, very redorative.. The M A T R I X . I The Matrix of Beads, yea, of a barren Doe,, fo highly edeemed, is but a dnewy and hard Subdance, flow of Digedion, and little Nourifhl went, EYES. Of MEATS. 203. EYES. Eyes of young Beafts and young Birds are not unwholefome, being feparated from their Skins* Fat, Balls, and Humours; for then nothing re- maineth but a fweet, tender and mufculous Flefti, which is very eafy of Digeftion. EARS, SNOUTS, and LIPS. The Ears, Snouts, and Lips of Beafts being bloodlefs and of a ftnewy Nature, are more wa- terifh, vifcous, and phlegmatic, than that they may be commended for any good or indifferent Nourifhment. PINIONS and FEET. The Pinions of Birds, and the Feet of Beafts, are of like Difpofition ; yet the Pinions of Geefe, Hens, Capons and Chickens, are of good Nourifh¬ ment ; and fo are the h eet of young Hogs, Pigs, Lambs and Calves; yea, alfo a tender Cow-heel is counted reftorative ; and Heliogabalus the Em¬ peror, amongft his moft dainty and luftful Difhes,. made Pies of Cocks Combs, Cocks Stones, Night-, ingales Tongues, and Camels Heels, as Larnpri- dius writeth. Galen alfo for Men ftck of Agues boil’d Pigs petti-toes in Barley-water, whereby each was bettered by the other; the Ptifan making them the more tender,- and they making the Pti¬ fan more nourifhing and agreeable to the Stomach. 1 hat fodden Geefe-Feet were reftorative, MeJ~ falinus Cotta by Trial found out, if Pliny maybe credited. The Tails or Rumps of Beafts are counted by certain unfkilful Phyftcians, yea, of Dr. ./Atfrhimfelf, to be hard of Digeftion. Firft, Becaufe they are fo far diftant from the Fountain I 6 of 204 Health’^ Improvement. of Heat. Secondly, Becaufe they are moft of a finewy Conditutiop; to which if a third had been added, that they are but Covers of a Clofe-dool, perhaps his Arguments would have been of fome indifferent Weight; for indeed the farther any part is from the Heart, it is fed and nourifhed with the more fine and temperate Blood ; alfo the Extremities or Ends of Sinews are of drongywhole- fome and good Nouriflimcnt; but as for the Tails and Rumps of Beads, it is indifferently mingled of Elefh, Sinews and Fat; fo that the very Ana¬ tomy of them {hews them to be a Meat agreeable to all Stomachs; and verily whofoever hath eaten of a Pye made only of Mutton Rumps, cannot but confefs it a light, wholefome and good Nou- rifhment. The Rumps of Birds are correfpon- dent, having Kernels inftead of Flefh ; but when they are too fat, they overclog and cloy the Sto¬ mach. UDDERS. The Udders of Milch Beads, as Kine, Ewes, Does, and She-Goats, are a laudable Tade, and better than Tripes, becaufe they are of a more flefliy Nature. Lean Udders mud be fodden ten¬ der in fat Broth; fat Udders may be fodden alone each of them need firft a little corning with Salt, being naturally of a phlegmatic and moid Sub- ftance. STONES. The Stones of a Boar work Marvels, faith Pif- faneUus, in decayed Bodies, dirring up Lud thro’ abundance of Seed, gathered by fuperfluous and rank Nourifhment. Indeed when Bucks and .Stags are ready for the Rut, their Stones and Pifels are taken for the like Purpofe: As for the Stones of vounp Cocks, Pheafants, Drakes, Partridges and " ° Sparrows, Of MEATS. 205 Iparrows, it were a World to write how highly hey are efteemed. Averrhoes thinks that the itones of a young Cock, being kept long in ;ood Feeding, and feparated from his Hens, do :very Day add fo much Flefh unto our Bodies as he Stones themfelves are in Weight. Avicen as nuch efteemeth Cock-fparrows Stones, or rather nore. But the Paduan Doctors (but efpecially )r. Calveshead ) giveth that Faculty to the Stones >f Pheafants and Partridges above all others. SKIN. The Skins of Beads, yea, of a roafted Pig, is s far from nourifbing, that it can hardly be well igefted of a ftrong Stomach. Some Birds are odden or roaited without their Skins, becaufe hey are black and bitter, as Rooks, Daws, Coots, nd Moor-hens; and howfoever others are fpared, et the Skin of no Bird turneth to Nourifhment, iut rather to ill Humours or filthy Excrements, 'fay, the very Skin of an Egg, of a Nut, an Al- nond, a Prune, a Raifin, or a Curran, and ge- lerallyof all Fruit, is fo far from nourifhing, that ; cometh out of the ftrongeft Man’s Body, either yhole or broken, as it went in. CHAP. XIV. % . Of M I L K. ^Orafmuch as Children’s Stomachs, and old “ Men’s Bodies, and confumed Men’s Natures >e fo weak, that not only all hlefh and Fifh, but 1 alfo 206 Health^ Improvement. alfo the Fruits of the Earth are burdenforae to their tender and weak Bowels •, Cjod tendering the grow¬ ing of the one, the Preservation of the other, and the redoring of the third, hath therefore appoint¬ ed Milk; which the younged Child, the weari¬ ed old Man, and fuch as Sicknefs hath confumedl may eafily digeft. If we would define or defcribe what Milk is, it feemeth to be nothing but white Blood, or rather the abundant part of Blood whit- ned in the Breads of fuch Creatures as are ordained by Nature to give Suck; appointed properly for Children and fucking little ones, but accidentally for ail Men, fick either of confuming Difeafes or old Age. That Women’s Milk is fitted for young Children, may eafily be proved by the Courfe of Nature, which converteth the Superfluity of Blood in a W oman bearing her Child within her to the Breads, for no other Purpofe than that fhe Ihould nourjfh her own Babe: For truly nothing is fb imperfect, defedive, naked, deformed, and filthy as a Man, when he is newly born into the World through a drait-and outdretched PaflTage, defiled with Blood, replenifhed with Corruption, more like to a flain than a living Creature, whom no body would vouchfafe to take up and look on, much lefs to wadi, kifs, and embrace it, had not Nature infpired an inward Love in the Mother towards her own, and in fuch as be the Mother’s Friends. lienee it cometh that Mothers yet hot and fweating with Travail, trembling dill for their many and extieme T brows, forget not their new* born Babes, but fmile upon them in their greateft Weaknefs, heaping Labour upon Labour, chang¬ ing the Night’s Trouble with the Day’s Unquiet- neis, differing it to tade no other Milk than that where* Of MEATS. 207 wherewith in their Bellies it was maintained. This doth a kind and natural Mother, if Ihe be of a found and indifferent ftrong Conftitution, for her Child ; and thus did Eve , Sarah , Rebecca, and Rachel , yea, all Women which truly loved their Children, and were both able and willing to feed their own. There be many Reafons why Mothers fhould be afraid to commit their Children to ftrange Women. 1. Becaufe no Milk can be fo natural unto them as their own. 2. Becaufe it is to be feared left their Children may draw ill Qualities from their Nurfes both of Body and Mind, as it fell out in Jupiter , whom whilft his Mother committed to Aega^ Olen’s Daughter and Pan’s Wife, to be nurfed by her, the Country¬ woman living only upon Goats Milk, could not but be of a ftrong lafcivious Nature, which left fuch an Impreffion in the Child, that growing once to the Age of a Stripling, he was in love with every fair Wench, lay with his own Sifter, forced his own Neices, left no fair Woman unaflaulted, if either by Gold, or Intreaty, or Craft, and transforming himfelf he could obtain her Love. Nay, when he was full of Women’s Company, he loved Boys, and abufed himfelf unnaturally in companying with Beafts. The like alfo is re¬ corded of JEgyfthus, who being fed in a Shepherd’s Cottage only with Goats Milk, waxed thereupon lb goatifh and lecherous, that he defiled not only Agamemnon ’s Bed, but alfo neighed in a manner at every Man’s Wife. Neverthelefs, if the Mother’s Weaknefs be fuch that Ihe cannot, or her Frowardnefs fuch, that Ihe will not nurfe her own Child, then another mult ibe taken fuitable to the Child’s Conftitution ; for a fine and dainty Child requireth a Nurfe like to itfelf, 20 § Health’* Improvement. .itfelf, and the Child of ftrong and clownifti Pa¬ rents, muft have a Nurfe of a ftrong and clown¬ ifti Diet: for as Lambs fucking She-Goats bear coarfe Wool, and Kids fucking Ewes bear foft Hair; fo fine Children degenerate by grofs Womens Milk, lofing or leflening that Excellency of Nature, Wit, and Complexion, which from their Parents they firft obtained : Neither is Wo¬ mens Milk beft only for young and tender In¬ fants, but alfo for Men and Women of riper Years, fallen by Age or by Sicknefs into Con- fumptions. Beft I mean in the way of Nourifh- »- ment, for otherwife Afles Milk is beft, for fome Cows Milk, and for others Goats Milk ; becaufe the one cleanfes, the other loofens, and the third ftrengtheneth more than the reft. Goats Milk is alfo better for weak Stomachs, becaufe they feed on Boughs more than Grafs. Sheeps Milk is fweeter, thicker, and more nourifiling, yet lefs agreeable to the Stomach, becaufe it is fatter. Cows Milk is mod medicinal, becaufe with us it loofeneth the Body, though in Arcadia it ftay- eth the Belly, and alfo cureth Confumptions better than any other Milk. Finally, the Milk of any Beaft chewing the Cud, as Goats, Sheep, and Kine, is very ill forRhums, Murs, Coughs, Fevers, Head-achs, Stoppings, and Inflammations of any inward Part; for fore E> es alfo, and fhak- ino- of Sinews. Avicen faith, that their Milk is hurtful to young Men, becaufe they are choleric ; to fore Eyes, Head-achs, Agues and Rheums, becaufe it is full of Vapours; to Convulfions and Cramps, by reafon of Repletion; to Refolution or Palfies, by over moiftening; to the Stone and Obftructions, becaufe the Cheefy part of it is very Of MEATS. 209 Of Beafts not chewing the Cud, Camels Milk ; the fweeteft and thineft of all other; Mares 4 ilk the next, and Affes Milk of a middle Tem- er : not fo thin, but that it nourilheth much *, or fo thick, as that eafily it will curdle. As Milk thinneft in the Spring, and thickeft in Summer, ecaufe then the Wheyifh part is refolved by Sweat; nd all Meats then obtain a drier Faculty. Signs of the bejl Milk . There be four Wavs in Women and Beafts to now the moft nourilhing and fubftantial Milk ; amely, by the Colour, Smell, Conftftence and rafte. For the beft Milk is of a Pearl Colour, leither blue, tranfparent, nor grey, but white, lear, and confufed j the Conftftence of it is neither hin nor thick, hanging like a Row of Pearls pon one’s Nail, if it be milked on it, not over laftily running off. In Tafte it is not four, bitter, alt, fweet, (harp, nor ftrong, but fweet, yet not n Excefs, and pleafant after an extraordinary kind »f Pleafantnefs : yet Galen affirmeth, that if Milk ould be tailed when it is firft conco&ed in the /eins and Breafts^it would feem fweeter than ioney itfelf. The Smell likewife of it is pure md fragrant, tho’ proper to itfelf, and void of .voathfomnefs. I Caufes of good Milk. Alfo it is much material to the Goodnefs of Vliik, to have fpecial regard to the Diet of thofe Creatures whofe Milk we ufe, or chufe for our Children. Galen reporteth, that a Friend’s Child of his, having loft his good Nurfe by an untimely Death, 2io Health’* Improvement. Death, was put out to another; who in time o Dearth being forced to feed chiefly upon Fruit ant Roots, and Acorn Bread, infeded her Child, a inc hei felf was infedted, with much grievous an< filthy Scabs. And I pray you what elfe is tht Caufe, that many Children nurfed in the Countn are fo fubject to Frets, Sharpnefs of Urine and tht Stone, but that their Nurfes for the mod part ea Rye Bread flrongof the Leaven, and hard Cheefe 1 and drimc nothing but muddy and new Ale? Ii is alfo recorded, that a young Man fick of a Con- lumption ufed the Milk of a Goat to his grea^ Good, fo long as it fed in his own Field; but af-. teiward feeding in another Field where Store o Scammony grew, and fome wild Spurge, he fel into a deadly Scouring, and felt no Nourifhment. Furthermore Care is to be taken of their Health that give us Milk ; for as an unclean and pocky Nurfe, which woful Experience daily proveth, in- fecfeth mod found and lively Children; fo likewife a clean, found and healthful Nurfe, recovereth a fickly and impotent Child. Nay, which is more , 1 no Man can juftly doubt, that a Child’s Mind is anfwerable to his Nurfe’s Milk and Manners: For what made Jupiter and /Egyjlus fo lecherous, but that they were chiefly fed with Goats Milk? M hat made Romulus and Polyphemus fo cruel, but that they weie nurfed by She-Wolves ? What made Pelias , Tyrus and Neptune's Son, fo brutifh, but that he was nurfed by an unhappy Mare ? Is it any Marvel alfo, that Giles the Abbot, as the Saint* regifter writeth, continued fo long the Love of 4 lolitary Life in Woods and Deferts, when three Years together he fuck’d a Doe ? What made i ^r-Gajus in his laft Sicknefs fo peevifh and fo full, ol }’icts at Carnbridgs , when he fuck’d one Wo¬ man, | 0 / MEATS. 211 van, whom I fpare to name, froward of Condi- ions and of bad Diet; and contrariwife fo quiet nd well, when he fuck’d another of contrary )ifpofition ? Verily the Diverfity of their Milks nd Conditions, which being contrary one to the ither, wrought all'o in him that fucked them con- rary EfFe&s. Now having (hewed what Milk is bed, and how o be chofen, let us confider how it is to be taken nd ufed of us. Fird, therefore, if any naturally oath it, as Petrus Aponenfts did from the Day of lis Birth, it cannot pofiibly give him any good 'Tourifhment, but perhaps very much Hurt in of- ending Nature. If contrariwife any with P kili¬ ms love nothing elfe, or with the poor Bizonians, :an get no other Meat, or with the Tartarian^ nd Arabians feed mod often willingly on Milk i et them all remember thefe three Ledons. How Milk is to be eaten and ufed in time of Health . Firft , That they drink or eat the Milk of no lorned Bead unfodden, for fo will it not eafily :urdle nor ingender YVind: but Womens Milk, \fies Milk, and Mares Milk, need no other Fire oprepare it, for it will never curdle into any hard lubdance. Secondly , To be fure that Milk (hall lot curdle, feafon it with Salt, Sugar, or Honey, ir.d neither drink any Wine or four thing upon it, por mingle it with other Meats, but eat it upon In empty Stomach, and fad an Hour after it. Thirdly , Exercife not prefently upon it, neither leep upon any Milk taken from Beads chewing he Cud ; and when you have eaten it, w T a(h your Teeth clean ; for there is no greater Enemy unto hem than Milk itfelf, which therefore Nature hath 212 Health’j Improvement. - hath chiefly ordained for them, who never had or have loft their Teeth. And truly, as Marcilius Ficinus noteth, Milk is not to be ufed of young Men, who have found Teeth given them for ftronger Meat, but of fuch as either have none at all, or very few and weak ones j or tho’ they have ftrong Teeth, want Ability and Strength to fet them a grinding, as it falleth out in them that are fallen into hediic Fevers. Wherefore when Poppcea , Wife to Domltius Nero , carried 500 She- Affes, fhod with Gold, continually about with her, to bath her Body in their Milk once a Week, and to drink of it every Day, to make her Skin clear and fmooth without Wrinkles, fhe left it rather a Monument of her Pride, than a Memorial of her Wifdom ; for Nature taught her a better Meat, tho’ Art could not appoint her a finer Bath. If fhe had taken it, as the Arcadians do Cow-Milk, in the Spring-time only, for a Month or fix Weeks together once in the Morning, to cleanfe and purge the Body of bad Humours, it had been good and warrantable by Phyfic ; but to ufe it continually in Health, could not lefs corrupt her than Goats Milk did my Lady Penruddock , of whole cruel and terrible End, caufed by the leaft Worms of all other, perpetually ingendered be¬ twixt the Skin and the Flefh, through Superfluity of Nourifhment arifing from the long Continu¬ ance of Goats Milk, I will not here rehearfe, it being frefh enough in their Memories that belt knew her, and moft loved her. The like may I fay of Cow Milk, fo generally ufed of us, that being now and then taken of found Men, not lubjedt nor diftempered with hot Difeafes, it nou- rifheth plentifully, increafeth the Brain, fatteneth the Body, reftoreth Flefh, afTwageth Sharpnefs of Urine, Of MEATS. 21 3 Urine, giveth the Face a lively and good Colour, increafeth Lull, keepeth the Body foluble, ceafeth extreme coughing, and openeth the Breaft : as for Children and old Men, they may ufe it daily with¬ out Offence j yea, rather for their good and great Benefit. IVhat Milk is bejl in Sicknefs and Confumptions . Concerning them that be fick, there are few Difeafes to which Milk is not offenfive being in¬ wardly taken, except the Confumptions of the fo- lid Parts, Marafmus, the Confumption of Flefh, called Atrophia , and the Confumption of the Luno-s and breathing Parts, called Pbtbifis: For Reco¬ very of the firft, Camels Milk is preferred before all others, becaufe it is moft moift and thin. The fecond fort is beft recovered by fucking Milk from a Woman’s Breaft, as moft familiar to our Livers and Blood, needing no Preparation, for it is only Blood difcoloured, but only Application unto the Flefh. The Cbufmg of a good Nurfe. The Nurfe muft be young, clear of Skin, of a kindly Smell, pure Complexion, good Tempera¬ ture, wholefome and moderate Diet, much Sleep, little Anger, neither too idle nor too toiling, no Wine-bibber, no Eater of hot Spices, no ordinary Wanton, and void of all Difeafes : Such a Nurfe is fooner wifhed for than found ; yet fuch a one is to be chofen either for found Children or fick Per- fons, left drawing Corruption in fofine a Meat as Milk is, our Confumptions be increafed fo much the tr4 Health’^ Improvement. the more, by how much Poifon given with Drink is more dangerous. ASSES MILK. The third fort of Confumptions, wherein the Flefh accidentally decayeth through Exulceration of the Lungs and breathing Parts, is efpecially to be cured by Afles Milk ; for which Camels Milk is unfit, becaufe it is too thin and moift; as alfo Womens Milk, becaufe it wholly nourifheth and nothing cleanfeth; whereas AfTes Milk is both Meat and Medicine,cleanfing and nourilhing alike; not fo thin as to hinder Expedforation, not fo thick as to caufe Condenfation of the Matter putrefied, but being of a middle Temper and Confiftence, and confequently moft proper for that Difeafe: Neither are all Afles of a like Goodnefs; for a young Afs’s Milk is of the thineft, an old Afs’s Milk is too thick and dry, but one of a middle Age is beft for that Purpofe. Having gotten fuch a one, every Morning, four or five Hours before you ufe her Milk, fhut her from her Foal, and curry her well and clean, left her Skin growing fcurvy and foul, ill Vapours be augmented in¬ wardly for want of Expiration j then feed her with grinded Malt, ftraw-dried, mingled with a little fweet Fennel-feed, Anife-feed, or Carraway- feed, which file will eat with great Pleafure, and digeft into a fweet and wholefome Blood. An Hour after that, milk her as near the Patient as conveniently you can, that he may drink her Milk e’er the Air hath altered it, for if it be once cold it is never wholefome; this is to be done twice a day, Morning and Evening, upon an >€mpty Stomach, neither eating nor drinking ought after Of MEATS. 215 t for two Hours: you may fvveeten it alfo with Sugar-candy, Sugar'of Rofes, or fine Maiden- Honey, and it will be the more effectual. As bon as the Afs is milked, turn her and her Foal nto fine Leafe, wherein ldore of Cowfiips, Tre- oil, Cinqfoil, Elicampin, Burnet Filipendula, Vleadow-tanfy, Horfe-tail, Plantain, Lambs- ongue, Scabious and Lung-wort groweth. In Winter feed her with the fweetell Hay, growing n the fined and bed Meadows. If Afles Milk :annot be conveniently obtained for the Luno-- onfumption, nor Womens Milk for the Liver- onfumption before fpecified, ufe the Milk of a needy young reddifh and found Cow, feeding n the like Leafe, or upon thefweeted Hay : But •eware, as commonly Fools do not, that you eed them not with new and much lefs with four drains; for it maketh their Milk drong, windy, nd unwholefome, efpecially for fuch a^ be weak nd much coniumed j likewife remember to rub nd droke down your Cow every Morning, and er Milk will be both fweeter and more nourifh- lg. Thus much of Milk, what it is, how it is lade, for whom and for what Difeafes it is con- enient, how it is to be prepared and ufed, how lany kinds thereof are wholefome for Man’s Body, r hat Milk is fitted for found JVIen, and what for lem that be fick; fo there refteth no more but- ) wondet at Ptiny s Credulity, who as conftantly, pon hear-fay, avoucheth Mares feeding near the iver Ajlaces in Ponius to give all black°Milk ; as ardan reporteth blue Snows to be common near ie Streights of Magellan . CHAP, 2i6 Health’^ Improvement. * CHAP. XV. Of Butter , Cream , Curds, Cheefe , T HE Milks of horned Beafts, as Cows, Ewes and Goats, do confift of three Subftances j Cream, Curds and Whey. Of CREAM. The firft, being compared to the reft, is hot and unCtuous; the fecond phlegmatic and vifcous ; the third of a middle Nature. Again, there be twc forts of Cream ; one natural, called the Flour 01 raw Milk, gathered of the Milk without Fire, after it hath flood in a cold Place ; the other callec the Flour or Cream of fodden Milk, or clouter Cream, gathered from it after it hath been thick- ned upon a foft Fire. Raw Cream, how fwee foever it feemeth to wanton Stomachs, yet it weak neth Concoction, hindereth Retention, and i: more hard of Digeftion than any Milk. Sodder and boil’d Cream, fuch as we ufe in Tarts, Fool and Cuftards, is lefs offenfive to the Stomach, am of better Nourifhment; yet we do ill in eating i laft, when the Lightnefs and UnCtuofity of it fhew eth that it ought to be eaten firft. BUTTER. Butter, not undefervedly termed the Flemmln Treacle, is by labouring and churning made c \ both forts of Cream : fo that as Milk is nothin! but Blood twice conco&ed, fo Butter is nothinj but Cream twice laboured. Pliny fheweth th * tru O/MEATS. Zl , 7 true making of it, lib. 28. c. 9. which I need not to repeat, becaufe ic nothing or very little differeth ' from ours : Only I wonder with him, that Africa „ and other barbarous Countries efteem it a Gentle¬ man’s Difh, when here and in Holland , and in all the northern Regions, it is the chief Food of the poorer fori. : for go from the Elevation of C2 to 84 of the North Pole, you fhall every where find fuch Store of good Butter, as no where the like, no not in Parma nor Placentia , nor Holland itfelf, whence fo much Butter and Cheefe is dif- perfed through the World. In Iceland they make- fuch a Quantity, that having neither earthen Vef- fels nor Calks enough to keep it in, they make Chefts of Fir thirty or forty foot long, and five foot fquare, filling them yearly with fait Butter., which they bury in the Ground till they have Oc- cafion to ufe it. Butter is hot and moift, of grofs Nourishment, Softening rather than corroborating the Stomach’ haftening Meat into the Belly before it be concoc¬ ted, rheumatic, and eafily converted into oik* Fumes, which greatly annoy both Throat ani Head. It is ill for the Stomach, Rheum, and all T luxes either of Blood, Humors, or Seed ; and in truth it is rather to be ufed as Sauce and Phyfic, than as Meat to feed upon. It is beft at Break* faft, tolerable in the beginning of Dinner, but at Supper no way good, becaufe it hindereth Sleep, and fendeth up unpleafant Vapours to annoy the Brain, according to the old Proverb, Butter is (sold in the Morning, Silver at Noon, and Lead at Night. It is alfo beft for Children whilft they they are growing, and for old Men when they are declining; but very unwholefome betwixt thol'q >wo Ages, becaufe through the Heat of young K Stomachs, 2i8 TIealthT Improvement. Stomachs, it is forthwith converted into Choler. Weak Stomachs arc to efchew all fat, oily, and buttered Meats, efpecially when they fwim m Butter; for naturally Butter fwimeth aloft, and confequentlv hindereth the Stomachs clofing, whereby Concoaion is foreflowed, and many ill Accidents produced to the whole Body. The Dutchmen have a By-verfe amongft them to this Effea: Eat Butter firjl^ and eat it laji , And live till a hundred Tears be pajl. And Paracelfus , in his Book deThartaro , thinketh the Netketlanders to be more free of the Stone than other Nations, becaufe their chiefeft Food is Butter; wherein the filly Alchymift was not a little miftaken, for no People in the World are more fubjed to that Difeafe, as the Number and Excellency of Stone-cutters in that Country may plainly prove. And if Butter be lefs offenfive, and more nourifhing to them than better Meat, it is to be imputed either to a natural Affection unto it, infufed, as it were, with their Patents Seed, or elfe to a long Cuftom, which is, as I before noted, another Nature. And verily their natural Love unto that Meat of all others appear¬ ed in this: for that as Englijh People, when the Bride comes from Church, are wont to caft Wheat upon her Head, and the Grecians to anoint the Door-pods with fat Lard; fo when then Brides and Bridegrooms return homeward frorrj Church, one prefents them, as prefacing 1 lenty.l and Abundance of all good things, with a 1 ot o Butter; which they eiteem the foundation, tho a flippery Foundation, of their Lives. The fatte Butter is made of Sheeps Milk, the ftrongef Of M E A T S. 21 9 of Goats Milk, but the bed and mod of Cows Milk, which caufed it of the Grecians to be called Butyros. It were tedious and impertinent to fliew how many and necefiary Ufts it hath in Surgery and Phyfic, confidering that here we are only to defcribe, as we have done, what Nourifhment it giveth, not what it worketh againd Difeafes. Of CURDS and CHEESE. As there hath mention been made of two forts of Cream, fo now alfo I mud write of two forts of Curds; the one frefli, without Salt or Runnet, the other mingled with the one or both. Now, if the Butter be at Market when the Curds or Cheefe is prefs’d at home, then are they both ut¬ terly unwholefome, claming the Stomach, dopping the Veins and Paffages, fpeedily breeding the Stone, and many Mifchiefs; but if they be equally min¬ gled w ith the butterifh part, then the Cheefe made thereof is w’holefome, unlefs Age or ill Houfe- wifery hath made it bad: for new, fweet, and frefh Cheefe nourifheth plentifully; middle-aged Cheefe nourifheth drongly, but old and dry Cheefe hurt- eth dangeroufly ; for it dayeth Siege, doppeth the Liver, ingendereth Choler, Melancholy, and the Stone, lieth long in the Stomach undigeded, pro- :ureth Third, maketh a dinking Breath, and a curfy Skin: Whereupon Galen and Ifaac have rery well noted, that 2s we may feed very liberal- y of Ruen Cheefe, and more liberally of frefli Cheefe ; fo w T e are not to tade any further of old ,md hard Cheefe, than to clofe up the Mouth of :>ur Stomachs after Meat. Concerning the Differences of Cheefe in Sub- Iftance ; good Cheefe is neither too foft nor too hard, too clofe, nor yet fpongy, too clamy, nor )j K 2 vet 2 20 H ealthV Improvement. yet crumbling, too fait, nor yet unfavoury, to» dry, nor yet weeping, pleafantly, not ftrongly fmelling, eafily melting in the Mouth, and never burning as it is toafted at the Fire. Likewiie Cheefe made of Ewes Milk is fooneft digefted, that of Cows Milk is more nourifhing, but Cheefe made of Goats Milk is moft nourifhing of all, be¬ ing eaten whilft it is new and foft, for it quickly waxeth dry, earthy, and crumbling. The weftern Goths , to prevent the Drynefs of Cheefe, make them fo big, that two ftrong Men with Levers can fcarce move one of them ; which alfo caufeth the Parmifans to be fo big, and alfo them of Pla¬ centia , which Bernardtnus Scaccus , in his Annals of Trent, preferreth before the Parmifans. But was not that a great Cheefe, think you, where¬ with Xoroajler lived in the Wildernefs 20 Years together, without any other Meat ? or rather was it not moft cunningly made or preferved, when at 20 Years end it did eat as foft as at the firft Day ? Which tho’ fome do think impoflible, yet the Par- jnifan of Italy will prove it true, by Age waxing mellower and fofter, and more pleafant of Tafte, digefting whatfoever went before it, yet itfelf not heavy of Digeftion. Our Effex Cheefe, being well handled, would in my Judgment come next unto it, efpecially if Goats were as plentiful then as Sheep, that there might be a Proportion betwix the three Milks, without which it is Folly to at tempt the like. Now whereas the Placentian and Parmifans add Afies Milk and Mares Milk and alfo Camels Milk, when they can get it, t the making of their Cheefe, it is not for the Cure fake, becaufe they yield no hard Curd, but fc the butterilh part that is taken out of them : fc indeed the Butter made of them is moft thin, 1 qu Of M E A T S.- . 221 quid, moift and penetrating, whereby fuch a fuppeling is procured, that their Cheefes do rather ripen than dry with long lying. The Irijhmen , like to Pliny's Barbarians, have not yet fo much Wit as to make Cheefe of Milk ; and our Welchmen want cunning to make it well. French Cheefe, in Pliny's time, tailed like a Me¬ dicine ; but now the Angelots of Normandy are counted relforative; which many of our Gentle¬ women, and efpecially a Niece of mine own, have fo well counterfeited, that they excel their firft Pattern. Spain hath forgotten the Art of Cheefe-making; and Portugal makes them but indifferently well, tho’ fometimes the bed in the World were made at Cuna , near to Cape Vincent , where they alfomade Cheefes of 1000 lb. Weight a-piece. As for our Country Cheefes, Banbury and Chejhire yields the mod, and are bell:; to which the Holland Cheefes might be julfly compared, if their Makers could but foberly put in Salt. As for Butter-milk, and Whey, I leave them to my Treatife of Drinks, becaufe they are of a thinner Subltance than that conveniently and pro¬ perly they maybe numbered and accounted amono-ffc Meats. Now a Word or two of Eggs, and then to our variable and no lefs profitable Difcourfe of Fifties. K 3 CHAP. 222 Health’j Improvement. CHAP. XVI. Of EGGS and BLOOD. A S the Monlans live only on Eggs and Oat¬ meal, fo the Egyptians {or a great while durft not eat Eggs, becaufe they are unperfeft or liquid Flefli 3 neither did they eat a long time any Milk, becaufe it is but difcoloured Blood . Certain Gre¬ cians abftained from them, becaufe they refemble a little World 3 for the Shell of them is like the Earth, cold and dry 3 the White is like to Water, cold and moift 3 the Foam or Froth in the White refembleth Air, which is warm and moift 3 the Yolk agreeth with the Fire, which is hot and dry. But to omit luch frivolous Reafons, let us not doubt but an Egg is a lawful and wholefome Meat, tempered fo excellently well by Nature itfelf, that it muft needs be accounted one of the beftNourifh- ments, being eaten White and all; for they which eat only the Yolk, as many do in a conceit to nourift more plentifully, fall into many hot and dangerous Difeafes, unlefs they have a vciy cold ' Liver and a waterilh Blood. Contrariwife the Whites of Eggs are fo cold, that fpongy Wood heinc thoroughly overlaid with them, will hardly, or not at all be burnt in a glowing Fire. Botl: being taken together, do fo qualify one another, that generally they agree with all Stomachs, or ai the leaft offend none, if we chufe them that be heft, and prepare them well after they be cholen Mow all Fggs being potential Creatures, no doub Of M E A T S. 223 but they are of like Subftance and Temper with that which in time they (hall be made. Where¬ fore as the Flefh of Pheafants, Partridges and Hens, -be of bed Juice, Temper, Quality, Nourifhment and Digeftion, fo likewife their Eggs are whole- fomed of all others. Contrariwife, as the Greek Proverb faith, Like Crow , like Egg. Neither can we imagine how any Egg (hould be whole- fome, proceeding from an unwholefome or dif- tempered Creature. Wherefore we condemn, in the way of Comparifon, all Eggs of Turkies, Peacocks, Geefe, Ducks, and all Water bowl, preferring Hens Eggs before all other, becaufe they are a mod: ufual, familiar, and temperate Meat. What kind of Eggs be. lejl. In the choice cf good Eggs obferve thefe LefTons; 1. That they be rather Pullets Eggs, than laid by an old Hen. 2. That they be not felf- begotten, but gotten by the Cock upon the Hen. 3. That they be new, white, and long : for fuch Eggs nourifh plentifully and quickly, clear the Voice and Bread:, drengthen the Stomach, re¬ cover Men out of Confumptions, and increafe Nature fo much, that in continuance of time they make us Wantons. They nourifh quickly, becaufe they are nothing but liquid Flefh : they nourifh much, becaufe their Heat and Moidure is propor¬ tionable unto ours: they are wholefomeft in the Morning, becaufe they are then newed. They are bed in Winter, becaufe Hens are then fatted, dronged, and bed relifhed ; they are word in Summer, becaufe Hens feed then upon Flies, Snails, Cadlocks, and many ill Weeds, which rather fcour than nourifh their Bodies : they are K 4 bed 224 Health’j Improvement. beft eaten alone, becaufe being mingled with other Meat they corrupt in the Stomach, filling many Mens Faces full of Pimples, Morphews, and Freckles. They are ill for young Children, efpe- viaily being often eaten, for that their hot Bodies turn them into over hot Nourifhment, whence Itch, Scabs, Inflammations and Corruptions do arife. They are alfo as bad for old Men, becaufe they are hardly digefled of a cold Stomach ; fitteft they are for temperate young Perfons, and fuch as are confumed without any notable Fever. Concerning the Nature of other Birds Eggs, hefides Hens. Epenatus extolleth Peacocks Eggs . before all other, and then the Eggs of Berganders, and laftly of Pheafants, Partridges and Turkies, whofe Judgment I would have thoroughly con¬ futed, had not daily Experience, and Antonius Gazius’s Arguments done it already. And verily whofoever will tafte other Eggs than which daily we ufe, (hall find none void of a ftjong Savour and bad Relifh, faving the Eggs of Pheafants, Partridges, Berganders, Oftriches, Turkies, Ducks andGeefe,tho’tne three laft named be bad enough. Yet if Ducks Eggs be hatched under a Hen, they eat more fweetly, and Goofe Eggs alfo hatched under them are thought by Simeon Sethi no un- wholefome Meat. Pidgeons Eggs are exceeding hot and of ill Tafle, hardly hardening by long feething. The Eggs of Sparrows increafe Lull, firengthen the Heart, and nourifh abundantly ; As for the Eggs of other Birds, great and fmall, howfoever they are eaten, as Rhajis faith, in the way of Medicine, yet they give either none or no good Nourifhment. But Hens Eggs are fo temperate and nourishing, that Galen himfelf, in certain continual Fevers, gave them ufually to his Patients Of M E A T S. 225 Patients to reftore Spirits; and not without Rea- fon, being of fo fine a Subftance, and freed in a manner from all Hurtfulnefs ; for they moiflen us in hedfic Fevers, they nourifh us in Ccnfumptions, they ftrengthen us in Fluxes, they bridle fharp Humours when they gripe us, reftore Spirits in Weaknefs of Heart, they fpeedily pafs from a clean Stomach, neither are they forbidden in a ftrait and thin Diet, did they not nourifh over foon. Gefner fheweth a good Reafon why new, white and long Eggs be the beft of all other. 1. Becaufe new Eggs are ever full, but old Eggs lofe every Day fomewhat of their Subftance, and in the end waxing addle, ftink like Urine, where¬ upon they were called of the Latins Ova Grinev. 2. The whiteft Eggs have the paleft Yolks, and moft thin, fine, little bloody Strings fwimming upon them. 3. The longeft Eggs are commonly Cock-Eggs, and therefore of betterNourifhment. Some Eggs are almoft all Yolk and no White, yea, fome have two Yolks in them, others have in a manner no Yolk at all, or at moft nothing proportionable ; the former fort nourifh moft, the other are fitteft for hot Stomachs. The Drejfmg of Eggs. Concerning the Preparation of them, a rare Egg any way drefs’d is lighteft of Digeftion, a hard Egg is moft rebellious, an Egg betwixt both is of ftrongeft Nourifhment. Brajfavola reporteth a Monk to have been made fo coftive with hard Eggs, that no Art was available to give him one Stool. Furthermore, all hard Eggs, cfpecially hardened by frying, get from the hire a fmoaky and hot Nature, and from the Frying-pan and K 5 burnt 226 Health’j Improvement. burnt Butter a malign Quality, not only as ofFen- five to the Stomach as rotten Eggs, but alfo fend¬ ing up bad Vapours to the Brain and Heart. Eggs potcht into Water or Verjuice are fitted for hot Complexions, or Men didempered with Agues ; fodden rare in the Shell they are fooned convert¬ ed into Blood ; but being rare roaded in Embers, they make the thickefl and dronged Blood, and and are fitted; for weak, cold and watterifli Sto¬ machs. Thus much of Birds Eggs, which in a little Quantity nourifli much, and are called of Ficinus the Quintefi'ence of Flefh, becaufe they yield fo fpeedy and fine Nourifhment. Nov/ it relteth to difcourfe fomething of Tor- toifes Eggs, which be not poifonable nor hurtful, as the Eggs of Snakes, Lizards and Chamaeleons, but very fit to nourifh Men in hot Agues, when all Birds Eggs may be fufpedfed of inflaming the Blood ; for they are of a more phlegmatic Nature, tempering hot Humours, procuring Sleep to the watchful, Moidure to the dried Perfon, and in- fpiring as it were a fecond Life to fuch as feem defperately confirmed of hot Fevers. Sir William Pelham , that worthy-and valiant Knight, kept them in his Garden at the Minories , by the Tower of London , where I wondered much at the Bead:, and more at her Eggs ; for contrary to the Nature of Hens Eggs, the mofi: fpotted were the bed, and the harded of Shell the bed likewife; and they are word when they are newed, bed when they are three Months old. Lad of all, as touching that Queftion made by Plutarch , and difputed of him more wittily than wifely of either Side, Whether the Hen or the Egg he firjl in Nature ? I omit it as a foolifh and fu- perduous Doubt, fince common Senfe and Reafon telleth Of M E A T s. 227 telleth us, that the perfe< 51 er Creatures were firft made, and the whole is more ancient than that which is gotten of the whole. Of B L O O D. Blood being the Chariot-man or Coacher of Life, was exprefly forbidden the Ifraelites , Lev. vii. tho’ it were but the Blood of Beafts, partly be- caufe they were naturally given to be revengeful and cruel-hearted, partly alfo becaufe no Blood is much nourifhing out of the Body, albeit in the Body it is the only Matter of true Nouriihment : Neverthelefs the Laconians black Broth, fo highly commended of Dionyfius , was made of Kids Blood fodden with Water, Vinegar and Salt; yea, the B if alt a of Scythia make Pottage of Horfes Blood and Milk, accounting it their befb and ftrongeft Meat. Alfo in JEgira Bulls Blood is fo far from being poifonable, as it is in all other Places, that it is held both delicate and reftorative ; fo likewife is the Blood of a Mare that was never covered ; for if (he once have taken Horfe her Blood is dan¬ gerous. Drufus the Tribune purpofing to accufe Quintus Cccpio of giving him Poifon, drank Goats Blood a good while before, whereby he waxed fo pale and colourlefs, that many indeed fufpe&ed him to have been poifoned by Capio-, whereby it is manifeft that Blood hath been a very ancient Nourifhment, and not lately devifed by our Coun¬ try Pudding-wrights, or curious Sauce-makers, as Jafon Praterifis and other foolilh Dietifts have imagined. Nay, which is more, not only the Blood of Beafts hath been given for Meat, but alfo the Blood of Men and Striplings hath been drunk for a Reftorative : yea, in Rome, the Seat and Nurfe of all Inhumanity, Phyftcians did preferibe K 6 their 220 Health’j Improvement. their Patients the Blood of Wreftlers, caufing them to fuck it warm breathing and fpinning out of their Veins, drawing into their corrupt Bodies a found Man’s Life, and fucking that in with both Lips which a Dog is not fuffered to lick with his Tongue ; yea, they were not afhamed to prefcribe them a Meat made of Man’s Marrow and Infant’s Brains. The Grecians afterwards were as bold and impious as the Romans , tailing of every in¬ ward and outward part of Man’s Body, not leav¬ ing the Nails unprofecuted. But of all other, I wonder moll at Marfilius Ficlnus , a moft famous Scholar, and accounted for a good Catholic, who hath thus written of the Ufe of Man’s Blood. No doubt, faith he, the Milk of a young and found Woman is very reflorative for old Men, but the Liquor of Man’s Blood is far better ; which Old Women-Witches, knowing to be true, they get young Children unto them, and piick or wound them, and fuck their Blood to preferve their own Health and Life. And why may not then old Men, I pray you, for need, fuck likewife the Blood of a young Man or Maid, which is merry, lufly, found, and willing to fpare fome of his fu- perfiuous Blood for another Man’s Life? Where¬ fore I advife them to fuck an Ounce or two of Blood, faffing, out of the Vein of the left Arm, at a little Orifice, towards the Full of the Moon, drinking prefently upon it fome Wine and Sugar, c 5 c. which tho’ he protefleth himfelf to have ut¬ tered as a great Secret, tho’ the Prince of Aboha'y wrote as much before in his Old Man’s Diet , and to be as lawful as it is helpful in Phyfic’s Practice ; yet, by his leave, I dare again proteft and prove the contrary ; for it is unlawful to graze upon a Man’s Carwfe, and is it lawful to eat or drink Of M E A T S. 229 his Blood ? What Remedy call you that which is more favage and abominable than the Grief it- felf? What Law, what Reafon, nay, what Con¬ jecture found out this Cannibal’s Diet ? Well, let it proceed from the Americans and Barbarians ; nay, from the Grecians , that were counted civil: let Democritus dream and comment, that fome Difeafes are beft cured by anointing with the Blood of Strangers and Malefactors, others with the Blood of our Friends and Kinsfolks: let Miletus cure fore Eyes with Mens Galls; Artemon the Fall— ing-ficknefs with dead Mens Sculls; Antheus Con- vulftons with Pills made of dead Mens Brains ; Apollonius bad Gums with dead Mens Teeth ; but far be it from any human or Chriftian Heart, (brag we of this foolifh Invention never fo much) to fuck away one another’s Life in the Blood of young Men, wherein CharlesYK. King of France being but outwardly bathed for his Leprofy, died therefore, and for other his cruel Maflacres, a moft bloody Death. Wherefore let us content ourfelves with the Blood of Geefe, Swans, Plogs, and Sheep, in our Sauce and Puddings, which yet are but a grofs and fulfome Nourifhment, un- .efs they meet with a Prong and good Stomach. CHAP. XVII. Of F I S FI generally , and the Difference thereof . A S amongft Poets there is fome called the Co- ryphesus, or Captain-poet, fo fareth it like— wife amongft Meats; fome preferring Fruit, as being 230 He.alth’j Improvement. facing mofl ancient, cleanly, natural, and need¬ ing either none or very little Preparation: others extol Flefh, as moft fuitable to flefhy Creatures, and giving moft and beft Nourifhment. But the fineft Feeders and dainty Bellies did not delight in Flefh with Hercules , or in fruit with Plato and Arcefilaus , but with Nurna and Philccrates in Va¬ riety of Fifh ; which Numa made a Law, that no Fifh without Scales nor without Fins fhoulu be eaten of the People; whereupon I may juftly col¬ lect and gather, that he was not ignorant of Mo- ■fes’ sLaw. Alfo, according to the vain Dream of Gregory the Great, Bifhop of Rone, and the Au¬ thor of the Carthufian Order, he put more Holi- nefs in Fifh than in Flefh, falfly imagining Fleih to be a greater Motive to Luft and Lafcivioufhels than the Ufe of Fifh ; which frivolous Conceit is before fufSciently confuted in the 7th Chapter, and needeth not to be fhaken again in this Place. Now I will not deny that Fifh is a wholefome Meat, if fuch Fifh could be always gotten as may fufticient- lynourifti the Body j but now-a-days it fo falleth out through Iniquity of Times, or want of Pro¬ vidence, that our Sea-coaft and Rivers are more barren of Fifh than heretofore, that in the Spring¬ time, when we ought to feed on the pureft and moft wholefome Nourifhment, our Blood is not cleanfed, but corrupted with filthy Fifh, I mean fait Herrings, red Herrings, Sprats, Haberdin, and green Fifh, which are not amifs for Sailors and Plowmen, but yet moft hurtful and dange¬ rous for other Perfons. Gat is Queen of Syrio made a Law that no Meal fhould pafs through the *1 ear without Fifh; which if it were as firmly made and executed in England , no doubt much Flefh would be fpared, and Navigation and Fifher- men Of MEATS. 231 men maintained through the Land j neither fhould we need to imitate Gregory the Lr^-maker, per- fuading Men to eat only Fifh at that Time, when it is moft out of Seafon, moft hardly gotten, and hurtful to the Bodies of moft Men. Alfo in high Germany there is both Fifh and Flefh continually fet upon the Table, that every Man’s Appetite, Humour and Complexion, may have that which is fitted for it: in which Country tho’ no Lent be ohferved, except of a few Catholics, yet is there abundance of Flefh all the Year long. Re- ftraint being only made in Spring-time of killing that which is young. Differences of Fifh in Kmd. c , % A f(T *,» , Concerning the Kinds of Fifties, Pliny maketh 177 feveral forts of them, whereof fome being never feen nor known in our Country,it were but Folly to repeat them. As for them which we have and feed on in England , they are either fcaled, as Sturgeon, Salmond, Gradings, Shuins, Carps, Breams, Bafe, Mullet, Barbel, Bike, Luce, Peaich, Ruffs, Herrings, Sprats, Pilchards, Roch, Shads, Dorry, Gudgeon and Umbers; or fhell’d, as Scallops, Oyfters,Mufcles,Cockles, Periwinkles; or crufted ov.er, as Crabs, Lobfters, CrevifTes, Shrimps; or neither fcaled, fhell’d, nor crufted, as Tunny, Ling, Cod, Hake, Haberdine, Had¬ dock, Seal, Conger, Lampreys, Lampern^, Eels, Piaife, Turbot, Flounder, Skate, Thornback, Maids, Sole, Curs, Gild-poles, Smelts, Cuttles, Sleeves, Pouts, Dog-fifh, Poulps, Yards, Mack- rels, Trouts, 'Tenches, Cooks, Whitings, Gour- nards and Rochets. To which alfo we may add, Sticklebacks and Minoes, and Sphlings and An¬ chovies, 2%2 . Health^ Improvement. chovies, becaufe they are alfo neither fcaled, cruft- ed, nor defended with Shells. As for the Goodnefs or Badnefs of Filh, it is leflfened or increafed upon three Caufes; the Place they live in, the Meat they feed on, and their manner of Dreffing or Preparation. Concerning the firft, fome live in the Sea, feme in Rivers, fome in Ponds, fome in Fenny Creeks andMeers. Difference cf Filh in refyefi of Place. Sea-filb, as it is of all other the fweeteft, fo likewife the leaft hurtful; for albeit they are of a thicker and more flefhy Subftance, yet their Flefh is moll light and eafy of Concodfion, in fo much that Zeno and Crato y two notable Phyficians in Plutarch’s time, commended them above all other to their Tick Patients, and not without Defert; for as the Sea-air is pureft of all other, becaufe it is molt tolled and purified with Winds, fo the Wa- I ter thereof is moft laboured, and nourifheth for us the wholefomeft and lighteft Meat; lighteft, be- caufe continual Exercife confumeth the Sea-fifhes Superfluities ; wholeforneft, becaufe the fait Wa¬ ter, like to Buck-lye, walheth away their inward Filth and Uncleannefs. Of Sea-ftlh thofe are bell which live not in a calm and muddy Sea, tolled neither with Tides nor Winds, for there they wax nought for want of Exercife j but they which live in a working Sea, whofe next Continent is clean, j gravelly, fandy, or rocky, running towards the j North-eall Wind, mull needs be of a pure and f wholefome Nourifhment, lefs moift and clammy i than the others, eafier alfo of Conco&ion, fooner ■ turn’d into Blood, and every way fitter for Man’s Body. This is the Caufe why the Chita? and northern Of MEATS. 233 "lorthern People live as well with Fifh alone, as we do here with fuch variety of Flefh ; even I fay he Goodnefs, Lightnefs, and Wholefomnefs of heir Fifh, which is not brought unto us till it be :ither fo ftinking or fait, that all their Goodnefs is 2;one or dried up. River-fifh likewife are moft wholefome and ight, when they fwim in rocky, fandy, or gra- /el’d Rivers, running northward or caftward ; and v he higher they fwim up, the better they are: Jontrariwife, thofe which abide in flow, fhort, md muddy Rivers, are not only of an excremental md corrupt Juice, but alfo of a bad Smell and ill Tafte. Pond-fifh is foon fatted through abundance of Meat and want of Exercife; but they are nothing o fweet as River-fifh, unlefs they have been kept n fome River to fcour themfelves, efpecially when hey live in little ftanding Ponds, not fed with rontinual Springs, nor refrefhed from fome River >r Sea with frefh Water. Fenny-fifh of all other is moft flimy, excre- nental, unfavoury, laft digefted, and fooneft cor- •upted j having neither free Air, nor fweet Wa- :er, nor good Food to help or better themfelves ; uch are the Fifh of that Lake in Armenia , where til the Fifh be black and deadly : and albeit our EngUjh Meers be not fo bad, yet verily their Fifh s bad enough, efpecially to Stomachs of other Countries, unacquainted with fuch muddy and un~ vholefome Meats. Differences of Fifh in refpeft of their Feeding. v Concerning the Meats which Fifhes feed on, ome feed upon Salt and faltifh Mud, as near Lep- 234 Health’j Improvement. tis in Africa, and in Eubcsa , and about Dyrrha- chium , which maketh their Flefh as fait as Brine, and altogether unwholefome for moft Stomachs: Others upon bitter Weeds and Roots, which make them as bitter as Gall; of which, tho we have none in our Seas or Rivers, yet in the Ifland of Pene and Clazonune they are very common. Alfo, if Pliny may be credited, about Cephalenia , Ani- pelos , Paros , and the Delian Rocks, Fifh are not only of a fweet Tafte, but alfo of an aromatical Smell; whether it is by eating of fweet Roots, or devouring of Amber and Amber-greafe. Some alfo feed and fat themfelves near to the Common- Sewers, Sinks, Channels and Draughts of great Cities, whofe chiefeft Meat is either Carrion or Dung ; whereas indeed the proper Meat for Fifh is either Flies, Frogs, Grafhoppers, young Fry, and Spawn, and chiefly certain wholefome Roots, Herbs and Weeds, growing in the Bottom or Sides of Seas and Rivers. Ctefar , Crajus and Curias, fed them with Livers and Flefli 5 fo alfo did the Hieropolitans in Venus Lake. In Champagny they fed them with Bread ; yea, Vidius Pollto fed them with his condemned Slaves, to make them the more fat and pleafant in Tafte. But neither they that are fed with Men, nor with Garbage or Car¬ rion, nor with City-filth, nor with any thing we can devife, are fo truly fweet, wholefome and pleafant, as they which in good Seas and Rivers feed themfelves, enjoying both the Benefit of frefh Air, agreeable Water, and Meat correfpondent to their own Nature. •$r Difference of Fifh in refpeVt of Preparation. Concerning their Difference of Goodnefs in Pre¬ paration, I mull needs agree with Diocles , who being Of MEAT S. 235 being afked, Whether were the better Fifh, a Pike or a Conger ? That, faith he, fodden, and this broil’d: {hewing us thereby, that all flaggy, flimy, and moift Fifh, as Eels, Congers, Lampreys, Oyfters, Cockles, Mufcles and Scallops, are beft broil’d, roafted and baked ; but all other Fifh of a firm Subftance and drier Conftitution, is rather to be fodden, as the moll part of Fifh before- named. Lafl of all, we are to confider what Fifh we fhould chiefly chufe, namely the beft grown, the fatteft, and the neweft. How to chufe the beji Fifh. The beft grown fheweth that it is healthy, and hath not been fick, which made Philoxenus the Poet at Dionyfus’s Table to requeft him to fend for Mfculapius’s Prieft to cure the little Barbies that were ferved in at the lower Mefs where he fat. If a Fifh be fat, it is ever young ; if it be new, it is ever fweet; if it be fed in muddy or filthy Water, keep it not till the next day, for it foon corrupteth; but if it be taken out of clean feeding, it will keep the longer. Rules to be obferved in the Eating of F ifh. Sodden Fifh or broil’d Fifh, is prefently to be eaten hot; for being kept cold after it but one Day, unlefs it be covered with Wine-pickle or Vinegar,, it is.corrupted by the Air in fuch fort, that fome- times, like to poifonful Mufhrooms, it ftrangleth the Eaters : alfo Fifh coming out of a Pan is not to be covered with a Platter, left the Vapour con¬ gealed in the Platter drop dov/n again upon the 2^6 Health’j Improvement. Fifh ; whereby that Fifh which might elfe have nourifhed, will either caufe vomiting or fcouring, or elfe corrupt within the Veins. Finally, Whofoever intendeth to eat a Fifh- Dinner, let him not heat his Body firft with Ex- ercife, leaft the Juice of his Meat, being too foon drawn by the Liver, corrupt the whole Mafs of Blood; and let no Fifh be fodden or eaten with¬ out Salt, Pepper, Wine, Onions, or hot Spices; for all Fifh, compared with Flefh, is cold and moift, of little Nourifhment, ingendering waterifh and thin Blood : and if any fbal! think, that be- caufe Crabs, Skate, Cockles and Oyflers, procure Luff, therefore they are like wife of great Nourifh¬ ment, the Argument is denied ; for though they blow up the Body with Wind, and make good Store of fharp Nature, which tickleth and incit- eth us to Venery; yet that Seed is unfruitful, and that Luft wanteth Sufficiency, becaufe it cometh not from Plenty of natural Seed, but from an itch¬ ing Quality of that which is unnatural. Thus much generally of Fifh, in the way of a Preface. Now let us fpeak particularly of every Fifh eaten, or taken by us in this Ifland. CHAP. XVIII. Of S E A - F I S H. CE A-FISH may be called that fort of Fifh which ^ chiefly liveth, feedeth, breedeth, and is taken in fait Water ; of which I will write according to the Letters of the Alphabet, that every Man may readily Of MEATS. 237 readily find out the Fifti’s Name whofe Nature or Goodnefs he defires to know. ENCRASICHOLT. Anchovies are but the Sea-Minoes of Provence and Sardinia ; which being poudered with Salt, Wine-Vinegar and Origanum, and fo put up into little Barrels, are carried into all Greece , and there efteemed for a raoft dainty Meat. It feemeth that the People of thofe hot Countries are very often diftempered and diftafted of their Meat; wherefore to recover their Appetite they feed upon Anchovies, or rather tafte one or two of them ; whereby not only to them, but alfo to us Appe¬ tite is reftored. I could wifli that the old manner of barrelling them up with Origanum, Salt and Wine-Vinegar, were obferved : but now they tafte only of Salt, and are nothing fo pleafant as they were wont to be. They are fitted: for Sto¬ machs opprefled with Phlegm, for they will cut, ripen, and digeft it,and warm the'Stomach exceed¬ ingly well: They are of little Nourifhment, but light enough if they were not fo over-falted j they are beft drefs’d with Oil, Vinegar, Pepper, and dried Origanum j and they muft be freed from their outward Skin, and the Ridge-bone, and be wafh’d in Wine before they be laid in the Difh. VARIATvE. ALBURNI MARINI. Bleaks of the Sea, or Sea-Bleaks, called of Dr. Cajus , Variates, or Sea-Cameleons, becaufe they are never of one Colour, but change with every Light and Objedf, like to changeable Silk, are as found, firm and wholefome, as any Carp : there be great Plenty of them in our fouthern Seas, be¬ twixt 2 3 8 H ealth’j Improvement* twixt Rye and Exeter ; and they are bed fodden, becaufe they are fo fine and fo firm a Meat. ABRAMIDES MARIN/E. Breams of the Sea be of a white and folid Sub- dance, good Juice, moft eafy Digeftion, and good Nourifhment. PISCIS CAPELLANUS. ASELLUS MEDIUS Cod-fifh is a great Sea-whiting, called alfo a Keeling or Melwel; of a tender blefh, but not fully fo dry and firm as the Whiting is. Cods have a Bladder in them full of Eggs or Spawn, which the northern Men call the Kellc, and efteem it a very dainty Meat; they have alfo a thick and gluifh Subdance at the end of their Stomach, call¬ ed a Sown, more pleafant in eating than good of Nourifhment; for the toughed: Fifh-glue is made of that. Of all parts of the frefhCod, the Head, Lips and Palate, is preferred, being a very light, tho’ a flimy Meat. PECTINES PECTUNCULI. Cocks and Cockles are commended by Scribo- nius Largus for {Lengthening.the Stomach. Pliny faith they increafe Flefh, but certain it is that they increafe Lud ; for they themfelves are fo hot of Nature, that they leap and fly above Water like an Arrow, in the Summer Nights to be cooled by the Air. Alexander Benedict us reporteth, that fome with eating too many Cockles have become dark Fools. Their Broth loofeneth the Body, but their Flefh days it. Galen commends them for a good Meat, but dangerous to them that are fubje£t to the Stone or Falling-ficknefs. The bed Cockles keep in fandy Seas, which maketh the Purbeck I Of MEATS. 239 Purbeck and Selfey Cockles fo highly efteemed : They are beft in the Month of May, for then are they fulleft, luftieft, and clcaneft of Gravel. To ivoid their Gravel, keep them in fait Water or Brine a whole Day before you eat them ; and if /ou fhift them into frefh Water or Brine, when he Tide is coming, they will open themfelves, ind fpue out all their Gravel and Filthinefs. Chufe he greateft and the whiteft of them, and of all hell-fifh ; they are beft broil’d in a Frying-pan, ‘either are they ill being fodden in Water with alt. Pepper, Parfley, dried Mint, and Cinnamon, fter the French Fafhicn. CONGER. Conger is nothing but a Sea-Eel, of a white, veet and fatty Flelh : little Congers are taken in ;eat Plenty in the Severn, betwixt Glouce/ier and \-wkefbury , but the great ones keep only in the lit Seas, which are whiter flelh’d, and more ten- •r : they feed, as Eels do, upon fat Waters at e Mouths of Rivers running into the Sea : they Is hard of Digeftion for moft Stomachs, ingen¬ ring Cholics if they be eaten cold, and Lepro¬ us if they be eaten hot after their feething. Phi- the comical Poet feeing a Conger Teething a Cook’s Shop for divers young Gentlemen that : pake it to Dinner, fuddenly foatcht away the n wherein it boiled, and ran away with it; the mtlemen followed and catcht at him like a imber of Chickens, whom he had crofs’d and med, and mocked for a great while, till having rted himfelf enough, he flang dowm Pan and all ‘•h thefe Words; O human Folly! how do Fools k for unwholefome Meats ? for he thought Con- bad enough of its own Nature, but far worfe if 24O Health^ Improvement. if it were eaten hot out of the Pan. In Englanc we do not amifs firft to boil it tender in Watei with Salt, Thyme, Parfley, Bays, and hot Herbs then to lay it covered in Vinegar, and then tc broil it; for fo is- it a meetly good Nourilhmen in Summer for hot Stomachs. M E R U L A. The Cook-fifh is fo called of the Seamen, be caufehe fo pleafantly tafteth when he is well fodden as tho’ he had feafoned himfelf with Salt and Spices ' They are very rare, but tender and light of Nou rifhment; and there is never feen of themabov one at once, which caufed the Latins to call ther Merulas , that is to fay, the Solitarians, or Hermit: or Blackbirds of the Sea. CANCRI MARINI. Crabs of the Sea are of divers forts, fome fmoot crufted and fome rough crufted, as it were, ar full of Prickles, called Echinometra: The fir fort hath the two foremoft Claws very big ar lon^, the other wanteth them j wherefore as,th* no fide-ways, fo thefe move not themfelves b round about like a fpiral Line: the firft fort a alfo very big, or never growing to be of any re fonable Size. The great ones are called Pagui whereof fome weigh io lb. Weight: Furthermc one fort of the great ones, which is the beft of a croeth fo faft upon the Shore that the Grecians ha Termed them Hippeis , or light Horfemen. T little fort of Crabs is fofter {hell’d, called Ptm theres , whofe Weaknefs is defended with abu dance of Wit; for whilft he is little, he hides hir fielf in a little Oyfter; and when he groweth^bi ger, (yet is he never fo big as our common Cra .. O/MEATS. 2 4 1 he conveyeth himfelf into a bigger Oyfler: of aJl Sea-crabs this is the lighteft and wholefomeft; next unto them are our ordmary Crabs, but fomewhat harder o Digeftion ; both of them nourifh much, f u d n re h 'S ll ’y/onimended in Confumptions of Lungs and Spittings up of Blood, not only by Dicfcortdes Phny and Avion* but alfo by all Writers, efpecially if AfTes Milk be drunk with As for their manner of Preparation, their Vents are fir fl to be flopped with a Stick’s end, and then they are to be fodden in Water for fuch as are coftive, or in Wine for them which are loofe dhed ; fome feethe them in Vinegar, Water ipf S f lt ** ^ Galen faith > that then they are bell when fodden in that Water out of which 7 they forthI a F en: ° f EggS ’ the bctter ^eyare 7 tor the Female is preferred. Our great Sea-crah, e o! hCr i 0f fa fm °°D h ° r r ° Ugh kind >ll of a yellow’ d^arl d and ftr ° ngPuIP u lufcioUS in Taft e=and 7 bought dearly, are of a very hard Digeflion, except they light upon a very flrong Stomach. They alfo oyer-heat and inflame the Body, whereas 7 con ^anwde the lefier fort do cool'and mol^T The Broth of all of them con fumes the Stone, and* -ureth Quartains being drunk every Morning fail ng; they are beft in Seafon in the Sprin! and ^all, as alfo at the Full of the Moon. 1 ° CUCULI MARIN r. Curs are fuppofed by Dr. Cajus to be all one rnh our Gurnard; but it fomewhat differeth, be- ig of a very firm, whitifn, dry, found and jholefome: blefh ; they are befl fodden with Salt " ater> Mace > Nutme gs» Parfley and Vinegar. * Sepict* L 242 Health** Improvement. Sepia’, rel Lolligines Calamaria. Cuttles, called alfo Sleeves for their Shape, and Scribes for their inky Humour wherewith they are replenifhed, are commended by Galen for great Nourifhers; their Skins be as fmooth as any Wo¬ man’s, but their Flefh as brawny as any Plow¬ man’s ; therefore I fear Galen rather commended 'them upon H ear-fay, than upon any juft Caufe or true Experience. Apicius, that great Mafter-cook, makes Saufages of them with Lard and other things; which Compofition I would not have omitted, if it had been worth the penning. CANIS CETACEOS. Dog-fifti is ftrong, hard, and of grofs and bad Juice T albeit Hippocrates commends'it in Pleuri- iies, and alfo in the Skin-dropfy or Anafdrca. The Dorry is very like to a Sea-bream, of moft excel” lent Tafte, Conftitution and Nourifhment, being either bak’d or fodden whilft it is alive in Wine. Water, Salt, Vinegar, and Penny-royal. MUSTEL JE. Eel-pouts are beft in April , May , and Sept cm ber\ their Spawn is counted very hurtful, bu their Flefh is white, firm, and of good Nourifh •ment, and their Livers moft fweet and delicate feethe them as you do a Dorry, and then bro them a little to make them cafier o( Digeftion, c elfe boil them as you do Sturgeon, and fo eat fcher - COlJ * RHOMBI MARINI. Sea-flounders are very thick, firm, and y< 'light of Digeftion, they are exceeding good fc aguiftv Perfons being well fodden, and for ion Men, being fried in Vinegar and Butter. • ~ ^ ■ 33 - * .-B P UM 5 . * 243 Of M E A- T S. lucern/e. Gilt-heads or Golden-poles, are very little un¬ like the Gournard, fave that it feems about the Noddle of the Head as tho’ it were all befprinkled with Gold-filings; it is fomething harder of Di- geftion, as Galen writeth. CUCULI MAJORES. . Gournards are of two forts, fwarthy or redifh; either of them are within of a white, firm, dry, and wholefome Subftance ; giving our Bodies a competent Nourifhment, being fodden in white Wine-vinegar, Salt, Mace, and Onions, or elfe being fodden only in. Wine and then fouced. « * * v * • i> .X ’ - ) T' v . ,4 ‘* * ASELLUS ISLANDICUS. Haberdine is nothing but an Illand Cod, bigger fomewh&t than ours, and alfo firmer. ASSELLULI. Haddocks are little Cods, of light Subftance, -rumbling Flefh, and good Nourifhment in the summer-time, efpecially whilft Venifon is in Sea- on. ASSELLULI LONGL Hakes ^ be of the fame Nature, refembling a j"°d in Tafte, but a Ling in Likeneft. AQUILA MARINA. j The Sea-Hawk is of hard Flefh and flow Di- eftion, as Galen avoucheth from Philotimns*$ louth i fmelling ftrong and heavily, not to be iten without Leeks, Onions and Garlic. L 2 H A- 244 Health’^ Improvement. H A L E C E S. Herrings are an ufual and common Ad eat, coveted as much of the Nobility for Variety and Wantonnefs, as ufed of poor Men for want of other Provifion: it is one of the cardinal Supporters of our holy Lent , and therefore not to be of; vet Thomas Cogan , in his Haven of Health, faith, that by eating of frefh Herrings many fall into Fevers, and that red Herrings gives as good Nourifhment to the Body as rufty Bacon. And truly I dare avouch, that new Bloat-herrings are little better, and pickled Herrings far worfe, tho you correft them with never fo much Vinegar, Salt, Pepper and Oil. As for fait Herrings well watered, or qualified in warm Milk, they tafte not 111 after they are broiled, but yet they give none or a bad Nourifhment, faving to Plowmen, bailors, Soldiers, Mariners, or labouring Perfons, to whom grofs and heavy Meats are moil familiar and con¬ venient. RH1NOCEROTES ACUS. Horn-beaks are ever lean,- as fome think, be eaufe they are ever fighting; yet are they gooi and tender, whether they be eaten frefh or pou rlered Highly be they commended of ALcxande Benedict us in the Plague-time, becaufe they bree no unwholelome or excremental Humours. LEUCISCI MARINI. Tavelings or Sea-darts are plentiful in the Ven< Ban Gulf, and all the Adriatic Sea ; where havir taken the young ones, they fait them and fer them to Conjlantinople in mfipite Numbers f< Anchovies •, the greater fort they fry and broil home, being of a very fweet and foft Hefh. 245 Of MEATS. MILVUS MARINUS. Keelings differ nothing but in Name from Cod. The Sea-kite, called of Pliny Hirundo volans, the flying Swallow, refembleth much the flying Her¬ rings fo plentiful ahout the IVeJI-Indies , which finding not proper Meat within the Waters, flieth after Gnats and Mufketoes like a Swallow. Sir Francis Drake , whom thankful Pofterity will wor¬ thily efteem, did firfl fhew me one of them dead, and I think he was one of the firfl: of our Nation that did ever eat them ; they are of a good Tafte, tender Flefh, but fomewhat aguifh after the Na¬ ture of frefh Herrings. A S E L L U S. Ling perhaps looks for great extolling, being counted the Beef of the Sea, and ftanding every Fifh-day as a cold Supporter at my Lord Mayor’s Table, yet is it nothing but a long Cod, whereof the greater fized is called Organ-Ling, and the other Codling, becaufe it is no longer than a Cod, and yet hath the Tafte of Ling : whilft it is new it is called green Fifh, when it isfalted it is called Ling, perhaps of lying; becaufe the longer it lyeth, (being conveniently turned, and the Peafe- ftraw often fhifted wherein it lieth) the better it is, waxing in the end as yellow as the Gold Noble, at which time they are worth a Noble a-piece. They are taken only in the far northern Seas, where the fweeteft and biggeft live but Codlings are taken in great plenty near to Bedwell , in Northumberland-faire. LOCUSTS MARINE. Lobfters are of a ftrong and hard Flefh, and hard of Conco&ion; the Belly, Claws and upper k 3 parts 246 Health’j Improvement. parts are mod tender, the Tail-parts tough ; when they are Teething, their Mouth and lower Vent (hotdd be flopped with Tow, left the Liquor be¬ ing bettered with their Juice, they themfelves prove flafhv and unpleafant in Tafte. As the River-Lobfter or CreviTs fcemeth, as Dorian faid, to be made only for weak Stomachs; To I think thefe are ordained only for the ftronger fort: for I have known many weak Perfons venture on them to their great Hurt, as contrariwife found Stomachs do well digeft them. Pliny faith, that in the north-weft Indian Seas there be Lobfters taken of two Yards length; whereof we have none, cr if we had, yet can they not befo whole- fome, for the lead: is tendered, and the middle- £zed is beft flefh’d ; as for the great ones, they be old and tough, and will caufe Sorrow enough be¬ fore they be well concodled. They come into feafon with the Buck, and go out of feafon when the Doe comes in ; alfo in the Wane of the Moon they are little worth, and beft towards and in the Full: Clove-vinegar and Jellyftower-vinegar is their beft Sauce ; and if you butter them after they are well fodden with ftore of Vinegar and Pepper, they will give a ftrong Nourifhment to an indifferent Stomach : when their Spawn lies greateft in their Head, then are they in prime ; but when all their Spawn is out, then is their Spawn good, and they wax bad. L U C I I. Luces, properly called Pikes of the Sea, are fo rare in Spain that they are never feen. But our Englijb Seas, efpecially thpfe which wafh the fouth Shore, have ftore of them, which are large, fat, and good. Mr. Huzzy of Coalfield Tent me once Of MEATS. 247 a Luce out of SuJ/ex a Yard and a half long, which being prefented by me to the Mirror of Chivalry, the Lord IVilloughby of Erejby , was thought, and truly thought a moA dainty Fifh ; for it eateth more fweet, tender and crifp than our River Pikes, and may be eaten of aguifh Perfons, weak Sto¬ machs, and Women in Child-bed. Their Feed is chiefly upon young Fry, and Spawns of Fifh; and by continual fwimming, whereunto they are forced by beating of the Surges, they become ten¬ derer than our frefh Water Pikes, tho’ not fo fat. O R B E S. Lumps are of two forts, the one as round al- moA as a Bowl, the other rt-fembling the Fillets of a Calf; either of them is deformed, fhapelefs and ugly, fo that my Maids once at Ipfwich were afraid to touch it; being flayed, they refemble a foft and gellied SubAance, whereupon the Hollanders call them Snot-fifties. I liked not their SubAance, TaAe, nor Qualities, for they were (as they are written of) a crude, raw, and phlegmatic Meat, much like to a Thorn-back half fodden; they are beA being boiled and pickled like Sturgeon, and fo eaten cold. SCOMBRI. Mackrels w T ere in old time in fuch requeA, that two Gallons of their Pickle (called the Pickle of Good-fellows) was fold for a thoufand Pieces of Silver; but Time and Experience defcribed them to be of a thick, clamy and fuffocating SubAance, offenfive to the Brain, Head and BreaA, though pleafant in TaAe, and acceptable to the Stomach : Certain it is that they caufe Droufinefs in the beA Stomachs, and Apoplexies, or Palfies, or Lethar- L 4 gies. 248 Health’^ Improvement. gies, or Dulnefs, at the leaft, of Senfe and Sinews to them that be weak. Frahanns rightly advifeth ail Perforis fick of phlegmatic Difeafes and of Stoppings, to beware of Mackrels as a molt dan¬ gerous Meat albeit their Liver helpeth the Jaun¬ dice, being fodden in Vinegar ; and their Flefh fodden in Vinegar cureth the Suffocation of the Matrix : they are beft being fodden in Wine-vine¬ gar with Mints, Parfley, Rofemary and Thyme ; and if afterwards they be kept in Pickle made of RheniJ,b Wine, Ginger, Pepper and Dill, they prove a very dainty and no unwholefome Meat j they are worlt of all buttered. The Frenchmen lay Southern-wood upon a Gridiron, and them upon the Southern-wood, and fo broil them both upon the Fire, bailing them well with Wine and Butter, and fo ferve them in with Vinegar, Pepper and Butter, as hot as can be ; by which Way no doubt their Malignity is much leffened, and their Goodnefs no lefs increafed. R A J O L JE. Maids are as little and tender Skates, feeding chiefly upon Flefh, Livers, and Spawn of Fifh ; whereas other Fifh bring forth Eggs, which are in time converted into their Parents Shape; only Maids-fkate and Thorn-back bring forth their young ones without Eggs, after the kind of Pro¬ pagation of Beafts: they are very nourifhing and of good Juice, fit for weak Stomachs, and fuch as have through Wantonnefs fpoiled themfelves and robbed Nature. Boil them in Wine, Water and Salt, with a Sprig of Rofemary, and then eat them with Vinegar, Pepper, and fweet Butter. Mugilet Of M E A T S. 249 Mugiles Marini. Italice Cephalo. Sea-Mullets differ little or nothing in Shape from Barbels, faving that they are very little or nothing bearded, and thofe that have Beards have them only on the Nether-lip. There is Store of them in the Mouth of the River of Ufk , and perhaps as many as at Lateran In Provence. They are fo fwift, that they often out-fwim the lighted Ships; which argueth them to be of a light and aerial Subdance. It is drange what is written of this Fifh, namely, that it fhould hurt Venus' s Game ; yea, that the very Broth of it, or the Wine wherein it is fodden fhould make a Man unable to get, and a Woman unable to conceive Children. Nay, furthermore, *.Terpfides avoucheth, that a little of that Broth being mingled with Hens Meat, maketh them barren tho’ never fo well trodden of the Cock ; whereupon he faith, the Poets have confccrated the Sea-Mullets to Diana , as being the Procurer and Preferver of Chadity •, which if it be true, as I can hardly think it is, then farewel Parace/fus’s cabalidical Conclufion, or rather the Follies of Avlcen and many Arabians , which give the Stones, Brains and Combs of mod lafcivious Birds, as Cocks, Pheafants, Partridges, Drakes and Spar¬ rows, to dir up Lud and increafe Seed ; for the * Sea-Mullet is fo lafcivious, that a thoufand Females fwim after one Male as foon as they have fpawn- ed, and the Males likewife drive as much if they have not choice of Females ; yea, whereas in a manner all kind of Fifh fpawn but once a Year; they come, like to Swine among Beads, thrice a Year at the lead ; yet are they, as Men fay, and as many have written dnce, Abaters of Courage, Extinguilhers of Seed, and Charms as it were L 5 againft 250 Health 5 .? Improvement. againft Conception : Neverthelefs fince their Fle(h is wholefome, white, fweet and tender, and they feed clean and good, I dare boldly aver them to be much nourilhing, being firft well fodden in Wine, Salt and Water, and then e ther fouced like a Gournard, or kept in Jelly like a Tench, or eaten hot with Vinegar and Pepper. Of the Eggs and Blood of this Fiih mixed with Salt, which muff not be omitted in this Difcourfc, is al 10 made that which the Italians call Botargo, from the Greek Words t or falted Eggs. MITYL/E CUAMJE. Mufcles were never in credit but amongfl: the poorer fort, till lately the lilly-white Mufcles was found out about Romer’s-wall, as we fail betwixt Flujbing and Bergen-up-zom, where indeed in the Heat of Summer they are commonly and much eaten without any Offence to the Head, Liver of Stomach; yea, m\felf, whom once 20 Mufcles had almoft poifoned at Cambridge, and who have feen (harp, filthy, and cruel Difeafes follow the eating of Englifb Mufcles, did fill myfelf with thofe Mufcles of the Low Country, being never a whit diftempered with my bold Adventure. Dr. JVotton faith, that the leaf! Mufcles be ever bsfi, becaufe they are whiteft, fofteft, andfooneft digefted, but the great ones give a (Longer and larger Nourifihment; the red ones are very dan¬ gerous, yellow ones are fufpe&ed, but the white ones are wholefome and much commended, fave unto hot and difiempered Stomachs: they are beft fodden in the Water out of which they were taken, which being not obtained, feethe them in Water and Salt, and a little (Long Ale and Vine¬ gar: broil’d Mufcles increafe Heat and Drought; Of MEATS. 251 fried'Mufcles do eafily corrupt in our Bodies, and turn tobadjuice.lf they he kept in the like Pickle, as lately is devifed by Serjeant Goodrons to keep Oyfters in (made of Sea-water, Wine, Vinegar, Bay-leaves, Mint, Pepper, Ginger and Cinna¬ mon) I. durft warrant them as wholefome, and queftionlefs more pleafant than the Oyfter. As for Horfe-mufcles, they deferve not the Remem¬ brance, fince neither Experience, Cuftom, nor Reafon, approveth them a wholefome Meat; nay, as Pliny faith, Salem virufque refipiunt ; they tafte brackifh and ftrong, having a hidden Poifon .within their Flefh ; yet have I feen them ordinarily fold in Venice , which maketh me think that fome Sea and River may have wholefome ones of that kind, tho’ ours be neither wholefome nor pleafant of Tafte. They are exceeding big in Spain and the Weji Indies ; but the greateft that ever I read of, is that which Juba recordeth in his Volumes written to Cajus , Augu/ius' s Son, being as big in Compafs as three Pecks. MONACHiE. EJun-fifhes were not feen in England till Sir Francis Drake and Mr. Civendijb brought them, (no Man knows out of what Seas) cleaving to the Keels of their happy Veftels. It is a kind of Shell-fifh, not winding like a Periwinkle, nor opening his Shell, as Oyfters, Mufcles and Cockles do, but creeping out of his craggy Cabin, like a Sea-fnail, but that, as I faid, • his Hole goeth ftrait inward, and windeth not: the Face of it is very white, the Head is covered as it were with a bjack Veil, like the Nuns of St. Bridget’s Order, where¬ of I fuppofe it took the Name. It feedeth upon L 6 - fweeC 252 HealthV Improvement. ftveet Mud flicking upon Ships-fides whilfl they ly at Anchor, and is as wholefome and delicate a Meat as any Periwinkle. OSTREI. Oyflers do juflly deferve a full Treatife, being fo common and withal fo wholefome a Meat; they differ in Colour, Subfiance and Bignefs; but the bell are thick, little and round (hell’d, not flippery nor flaggy through abundance of gellied Humour, but fhort, firm and thick of Flefh, fifing up round like a Woman’s Breafl, being in a manner all Belly, and no Fins ; or at the mod having very fhort Fins of a green Colour, and lifted about as with a purple Hair, which will make them indeed to be juftly called Calliblephara y that is to fay. The fair eye-lidded Oyflers j fuch are our JValfeet and Colcbejler Oyflers, whofe good Relifh, Subftance and Wholefomnefs, far exceedeth the Oyflers of Ujk, Pool , Southampton , Whitjlable, Rye, or any Port or Haven in England. Thus much concerning the Body of Oyflers;, now lomewhat concerning their Bignefs : Alexan- fer , with his Friends and Phyficians, wondered to find Oyflers in the Indian Seas a Foot long- And ! in Pliny’s time they marvelled at an Oyfter, which might be divided into three Morfels, calling it therefore Tridacnon , by a peculiar Name ; but I dare and do truly affirm, that at my eldeft Bro¬ ther’s Marriage, at Aldham-hall in Effex, I did. fee a Pelden-Oyfter divided into eight good Mor¬ als, whofe Shell wa3 nothing lefs than that of Alexander’s : But as the Greek Proverb faith, Good- nefs is not tied to Greatnefs , but Greatnefs to Good- rtefs ; wherefore fince the little round Oyflers be, commonly beft relifhed, apd iefs fulfome, let them be Of MEATS. 2 53 be of the greateft account, efpecially to be eaten raw, which of all other is thought to be the beft r tv n- a en ^ aitb tbat the X are Somewhat heavy j” Dl S eftlon > and ingender Phlegm j but as he tnew not the Goodnefs of Englijh Beef, when he »ndemned the ufeofallOx-flefh, fo had he tried he Goodnefs of our Oyfters, which Pliny maketh he fecond heft of the World, no doubt he would lave given Oyfters a better Cenfure. That they re wholefome, and to be defired of every Man f be "o final! Reafon that aim oft every if n tbem * BeAdes, whereas no Flefti or therbifh is or can be dangerlefs being eaten raw. tw Oyfters are never offenfive to any indifferent romach. Nay, furthermore, they fettle a way- ard Appetite, and confirm a weak Stomach, id give good Nourifhment to decayed Members ther through their own Goodnefs, or that they e fo much defired. 1 finally, if they were an ill and heavy Meat by were they appointed to be eaten firft ? which no new Cuftom brought in by fome late Phyfi- m : for one afking Dromeas , who lived lon°- be- e AthencEUs and Macrobius time, whether he¬ ed beft, the Feaft of Athens or Chalets f Hike, he, the Athenians Prologue better than the a/ciaians, for they began their Feafts with Oy- rs, and thefe with Honey-cakes; which arme than a Mackrel. ANATLS 258 Health’* Improvement. ANATES MARINI. Puffins, whom I may call the feathered Fifties, are accounted even by the holy Fatherhood of Cardinals to be no Flefh, but rather Fiih; whofe catholic Cenfure I will not here oppugn, tho’ I have juft Reafon for it, becaufe I will not increafe the Pope’s Coffers; which no doubt would be filled, if every Puffin-eater bought a Pardon, upon true and certain Knowledge that a Puffin was Flefh. Albeit, perhaps, if his Holinefs would fay, that a Shoulder of Mutton was Fifh, they either would not or could not think it Flefh. ARANEI MARINI. Quawiners, for fo the Scots and northern Eng - lijh term them, are very fubtile and crafty Fifties, but utterly unwholefome for indifferent Stomachs, tho’ the poorer fort of the Orcadians eat them for hunger. RUBELLIONES. Rochets, or rather Rougets, becaufe they are fo red, differ from Gournards and Curs, in that they are redder by a great deal, and alfo lefs ; they are of the like Flefh and Goodnefs, yet better fried with Onions, Butter and Vinegar, than fodden ; becaufe they are fo little, that feething would foak out their belt nouriftiing Subftance. PECTINES VENERIS. Scallops are called Venus Cockles , cither becaufe file was born in one of them, or becaufe fhe loved them above all other Meat. Pliny extolleth the Scallops of Alexandria in Egypt , but now the moft and beft be in Spain bv CompoJIella , whithei many lecherous Men and Women refort to eat Scallops for the kindling of Luft and Increafe 0! Nature Of MEATS. 259 Nature, under the Name of a Pilgrimage to St. James’ s Shrine : The whited are bed, and lead hot, all of them increafe Lud, provoke much Urine, and nourifh drongly. Selfcy and Purbeck have gotten them Credit for them and for Cockles, above all Coafts of England; they are bed being broiled with their own Water, Vinegar, Pepper and Butter, but fodden they are held to be un- wholefome. PHOCiE. Seals-Flefh is counted as hard of Digeftion as it is grofs of Subdance, efpecially being old ; where¬ fore I leave it to Mariners and Sailors, for whofe Stomachs it is fitted, and who know the bed way how to prepare it. TRICHES. CLUPEiE. Shads have a tender and pleafant Flefh, but in fome Months they aie fo full of Bones, that the Danger in eating them lefleneth the Pleafure: they nourifh plentifully, efpecially the Severn- Shad, which in my Judgment is void of that vif- cous Humour, whereby other Shads, no lefs than Mackrels, inforce Sleepinefs to the Eater. They are bed in May , June , and July, for then they are full of Flefh, and freed of Bones. S Q_U I L L IE. Shrimps are of two forts 5 the one crook-back¬ ed, the other drait-backed : the fird fort is called ot Frenchmen , Caramots de la fante , healthful Shrimps ; becaufe they recover fick and confirmed Perfons: of all other they are mod nimble, witty, and fkipping, and of bed Juice Shrimps were of ^teat Requed amongd the Romans , and brought n as a principal Difh in Venus's Feads. The bed Way 26o HealthT Improvement. Way of preparing them for healthful Perfons, is to boil them in Sea or fait Water, with a little Vinegar; but for Tick and confumed Bodies drefs them after this fort: firft wafti them clean in Bar¬ ley-water, then unfcale them whilft they are alive, and feethe them in Chicken-broth ; fo are they as much, or rather more reftorative than the befi Crabs and Crevifles moft highly commended by Phyficians. Furthermore they are unfcaled, tc vent the Windinefs which is in them, being fodden with their Scales, whereof Lud and Dif pofition to Venery might arife, but no better noi founder Nourilhment. PRAWNS. There is a great kind of Shrimps, which art called Prawns in Engl'ijh , and Crangorus by Ron- deletius , highly prized in he£tic Fevers and Con fumptions ; but the crook-backed Shrimp far fur pafleth them for that Purpofe, as being of a fweete Tade and more temperate Conditution. S Q_U A T I N A. Skate is fkin’d like a File, of the fame Natur* with a Thornback, but pleafanter, more tender and more available to (Hr up Lechery ; it is f near a Thornback in Shape, that they often coupl and ingender together. LINGULAC/E SOLENT. Soles or Tongue-fifhes are counted the Partridge of the Sea, and the fitted Meat of all other fo fick Folks; for they are of a good Smell, a plea fantTade, neither of too hard nor toofoft aFledi ingendering neither too thick nor too thin Blood of eafy Concoction, leaving none or few Excre ment Of MEAT S. 261 merits after they be digefted. Platina fried them, as we do, with Parfley, Butter and Verjuice, and fauced them with Butter and Juice of Oranges ; but for Tick Perfons they are bed: fodden in Wa¬ ter, Butter and Verjuice, with a little Salt; it is a Fifh impatient of Winter, and therefore then it lurketh in deep Holes ; but in Summer it Iporteth itfelf abroad, and offereth itfelf to be feen when it is moft feafonable. CHALCIDES. Sprats need no Defcription, being one of Jack- alent’s principal Pages. They fmell well being new and frefh, refembling therein the River- fmelt; but their Flefh is queezy, corruptible and aguifli, efpecially if they light on a weak Stomach ; they are worft being fmoaked or fried, indifferent fodden, and beft broil’d. CHALCIDES MAJORES. Spurlings are but broad Sprats, taken chiefly upon our northern Coaft; which being drefs’d and pickled as Anchovies be in Provence , rather furpafs them than come behind them in Tafte and Goodnefs. Were Englijhmen as induftrious as I could wifh, we fhould fell them dearer to the French and Italians than their Anchovies are fold to us ; for I have feen fome prepared by Dr. Iur~ ner which for exceeded theirs : but ftrange things are ever beft liked ; according to that Saying of Galen , Peregrina , qua ignorant , magis celebrant mortales , quam quod nativum eft, quodque ejfe pra- clarum norunt : “ Mortal Men, faith ke> do more “ extol foreign things, albeit they know them “ not, than home-bred and familiar things, tho’ “ they know them to be excellent. 1 APUiE 262 Health’j Improvement. APU 7 E INFUMATjE. As for red Sprats and Spurlings, I vouchfai them not the Name of any wholefome Nourifh ment, or rather of no Nourifhment at all; com mending them for nothing but that they are Bawd to inforce Appetite, and ferve well the poor Man’ turn to quench Hunger. ASELLUS ARIDUS. Stock-fifh, whilft it is unbeaten is called Buck horn , becaufe it is fo tough : when it is beate upon the Stock, it is termed Stock-fifh. Ronde litius calleth the firft Merluciwn , and Stock-fif Moluam ; it may be Salpa Plinii , for that is great Fifh, and made tender by Age and Beating Erafmus thinketh it to be called Stock-fifh, becaul it nourifheth no more than a dried Stock : where; fore howfoever it be fodden, butter’d, fried o baked, and made both toothfome and dele&abl by good and chargeable Cookery ; yet a Ston will be a Stone, and an Ape an Ape, howfoeve the one be fet up for a Saint, and the other ap parelled like a Judge. The Stiiliard Merchants lay it twenty-four Hour in flrong Lye, and then as long again in warr; Water; afterwards they boil it in abundance c' Butter, and fo ferve it in with Pepper and Salt which way, if any way, it is moft nourifhing, be caufe it is made not only tender, but alfo mor moifl and warm. Now let us flay longer upo the Sturgeon, efleemed fometime the Monarc of all Sea-fifh. A C I P E N C E R. Sturgeon is thought of Mr. Cogan to be a Fid of hard Subfiance, not much better in his Judg men 1 Of M EATS. 263 ment than Bacon or Brawn, altho’ for the Rare- nefs it be efteemed of great Eftates, which I will not deny to be true in old and rufty Sturgeon ; but young Sturgeon is fo far from being tough or un- wholefome, that of all other Fifh it is and was ever moft preferred. Sever us and his Followers did fo efteem it, tho’ Trajan for an in-born Hatred could not abide it, that whenfoever any great Feaft was kept, the chief Gentleman of his Court car¬ ried up the Sturgeon, all gilded over with Gold, and attended with minftrelfyand carolling, as tho’ a folemn Pageant or Saint’s Shrine were to be carried about the City. Galen likewife and Tully affirm it to be of a fweet, delicate, and good Nourifhment. Cardan compareth it with Veal, but indeed it is far fweeter. Sturgeons Livers are fo exceeding fweet, that at Hamburgh they rub them over with the broken Gall, left the Stomach fliould be cloyed with over Sweetnefs. The great and full grown Sturgeons are better than the lefs, and the Male than the Famale; and they which fuck and ly at the Mouths of Rivers, are count¬ ed fweeter than they which are taken in the main Sea; it feeds not, as other Fifh do, upon Flies, Worms, Fifh-fpawn or Roots, but fucketh like a Lamprey, becaufe it hath no Teeth, of fuch fweet Morfels or Off-fall as happily it findeth. One :hing is .admirable in this Fifh, that albeit clean to.ntrary to. other Fifties the Scales turn toward he Head; yet againft the Tide and Stream it wimeth fafteft. Phyficians forbid all Sturgeon, Specially the Head and Fore-part, to aguifh Per- ons, and fuch as be lately recovered of Agues, be- :aufe they are fo fat and oily that their Stomachs will convert them into Choler. At Dtintzick and Hamburgh, whence we have the beft, fom'etimes they 264 HealthV Improvement. they are roafted, being (lick’d full of Cloves ; bu then the Belly only is toothfome, which eatet like Veal, or rather better, if fuch Sauce be mad unto it as we ufe to roafted Venifon. Other whiles they are broiled and bafted with Oil an Vinegar, having been firft: a little corned wit Salt; but if Sturgeon be well fodden, and the kept in convenient Pickle, of all other Prepara tions it is the chiefeft, being eaten with Vinega and fweet Fennel. They are firft: fodden in two parts of Water, on of white Wine, and one of white Wine Vinegar with fuflicient Salt, Nervine and Dill, as long r one would feethe a Leg of Veal; then being cole they are divided into Jouls and Rands, and put u into Barrels or Kegs, with ftore of Rhenijh Wine Wine-vinegar, and Sea-water j wherein havin lain half a Year, they become a light, toothfom and fingular good Meat to an indifferent and terr perate Stomach. As for Cavialy, or their Egg being poudered, let Turks , Grecians , Venetian and Spaniards , celebrate them never fo muci yet the Italian Proverb will ever be true. Chi mangia d't Cavlale , Mangia jnofchi merdi & falee. He that eateth of Cavialies, Eateth Salt, Dung, and Flies. I commend the Flefti of Sturgeon chiefly to h( and diftafted Stomachs, to young Men, and efpe daily in Summer; at which time, eaten wit Jelly-flower Vinegar, it flacketh Third, (harper eth Appetite, fettleth the Stomach, delayeth Hea anl giveth both a temperate and a found Nourift; ment, , 1 x i ph i: O/MEATS; 265 X I P H t I. Sword -fifties are much whiter and pleafanter in Tafte than Tunny; but as hard of Digeftion, and therefore unworthy any longer Difcourfe. RAJA. Thornbaclc, which Charles Chejier merrily and not unfitly calleth Neptune's Beard, was extolled by Antiphanes in Athene's Hiftory for a dainty Fifh; indeed it is of a pleafant Tafte, but of a ftronger Smell than Skate, over moift to nourifh much, but not fo much^s to hinder Luft, which it mightily increafeth. Alhertus thinks it as hard to be conco&ed as any Beef, whofe Judgment I fufpeif, ftnce Hippocrates permits it in long Con¬ sumptions : Afluredly if not theFlefli,yet the Liver is marvellous fweet and of great Nourifhment, which the very Tafte and Confiftence thereof will fufficiently demonftrate. Thornback is good fodden efpecially the Liver of it, tho’ Dor ion the Mufician laid, that a fodden Thornback is like a Piece of fodden Cloth ; but the Flefh is beft broiled after it hath been fodden, to confume the Watenfhnefs. T H Y N N I. Tunnies are beft when they are leaneft; name¬ ly, towards the Fall, and the dead of Winter When they are at the beft, their Flelh is unfa- voury enough, cloying an indifferent Stomach, and ingendering moft grofs and fuperfluous Moi- ftures. As Porpoifes muft be baked while they are new, fo Tunny is never good till it hath been long poudered with Salt, Vinegar, Coriander, and iot Spices.^ No Tunny lives paft two Years !>Vaxing fo fat that their Bellies break ; at which ime more ^ made of their Fat, by making M 'r • 0 1VA 1 rain- V K • 2 66 Health^ Improvement. Train-oil for Clothiers, than Good by their Flefh; which is only good, if good at all, for Spanijh and Italian Mariners. RHOMBI. Turbots, which fome call the Sea-Pheafant, were in old time counted fo good and delicate, that this Proverb grew upon them, Nihil ad Room- bum ; that is to fay, What is all this in comparifon of a Turbot . Verily, whilft they be young, at which time they are called Butts, their rlefh is moift, tender, white, *nd pleafant; afterwards they are harder to be digefted, tho more crumb¬ ling to feel to ; and as their Prickles wax longer, fo their Flefh waxeth tougher. They are beft being fodden as you feethe T hornback, or rather as you feethe a grown Piaife. B A L JE N IE. Whales Flefh is the hardeft of all other, and unufual to be eaten of our Countrymen, no noi when they are very young and tendereft ; yet th< Livers of Whales, Sturgeons and Dolphins, fmel like Violets, take moll pleafantly being faked and give competent Nourifhment, as Cardan writ eth. ONISCI. ALBUL/E. MOLLICUL/E. Whitings had never ftaid fo long in the Cour of England , where they are never wanting upon Fifh-day, unlefs they had done fome notable Ser vice, and kill deferved their Entertainment i tb beft Whitings are taken in Tweed, called Merling; of like Shape and Virtue with ours, but far bigger all Phyftcians allow them for a light, wholefom and good Meat, not denying them to ftck Perfoni Of M E A T S. 267 and highly commending them to fuch as be in Health; they are good fodden with Salt and I hyme, and their Livers are very reftorative, yea more than of other FifhTes; they are aifo good broil’d, and dried after the manner of Stock- nfh into little Buckhorn ; but then they are fitter, as Stock-fifh is, to dry up Moiftures in a rheuma¬ tic Stomach, than to nourifh the Body. COLYBDtENTE. Yards or Shame-fifhes, fo called becaufe they refemble the Yard of a Man, are by Galen’s Judg¬ ment as agreeable to weak Stomachs, or Crabs, Shnmps and CrevifTes. Gefner, in his Book of Fifnes, faith, that the Frenchmen call this Fifh the Afs s Prick, and Dr. JVotton termeth it profly the Pintle-fifh. How fhameful a Name foever it beareth, it needs not be afhamed of his Virtues; Tor it nourifheth much, is light of Concodion! md increafeth Nature. Yellowheads or Giltpoles are before fpoken of, jext before Gournards. And thus much of Sea- ifli. Now frefh Water-fifh challenge their due Remembrance, of which we will treat in the next chapter. CHAP. XIX. Of Frejh Water FISH. A P I U M. A Lderlings are a kind of Fifh betwixt a Trout and a Grayling, fcaled, (as the Trout is not) ut not fo great fcaled as the Grayling is; it lyeth M 1 eve* 263 H ealth’j Improvement. ever in a deep Water, under fome old and great Alder - , his Flefh being fodden fmelleth like to wile Parfley, whereupon 1 guefs it had its Latin Name, and is of indifferent good Nourifhment, and pro- voketh Urine. B A R B E L L I O. Barbels are counted nothing but bearded Mul¬ lets. It is moft likely that this is the Fifh dedi¬ cated to Diana the Goddefs of Chaftity; for it i« a very cold, moift, and gellied Fifh, hurting the Sinews, cjuenching Luff, and gieatly troubling both Head and Belly, if it be ufually and mucl eaten of: Some eat it hot after it is fodden it "Wine-vinegar, I hyme, and Savory, which is * good way to corredl it; others eat it cold laid ii Geliy, which only agrecth with hot and aguifl Stomachs in Summer-time : Affuredly the Egg or Spawn of Barbels is very (harp, griping an< corrofive, driving many into bloody Fluxes tha have eaten them faffing. ABR AMIDES. Breams feem no other than flat Carps, ye whiter of Flefh, and finer Nourifhment. Ther is a kind of Bream called Scarus ruminans , whic we call a Cud-bream, becaufe his Lips are eve wagging like a Cow chawing the Cud : this of a other is the lighted, fweeteft and beft Fifh of th River, fitter for weak and fick Perfons than fuc as be in Health, becaufe it is fo fine. A very pood Way how to drefs moji part of Scaled PH SPIES. Prepare it after this fort; fet on a good Qgan tity of white ftrong Vinegar and dale Ale, with ' Curfe Of MEATS. 2 69 C-urfey of Salt, a little Mint, Origanum, Parfley and R.ofemary ; and when your Liquor boileth fafi upon the Fire, flop the Mouth of your Bream with a Nutmeg thruft down into his Throat, and call: him in flapping into the Liquor, keeping him down till he be thorough dead and perfectly foddtn : Drefs Pikes, Roches, Carps, Gradings, Mullets, and all great Fifh of the River in the like fort; for it will make them to eat pleafan*, crifp, brittle and firm, not watterifh and flaggv, as mod: Fifh do, becaufe w ? e know not how to ufe and order them. ALBURNI. Bleys or Bleaks are foft flefh’d, but never fat; fitter to feed Pikes than to nourifh Men; in the Heat of Summer they are troubled with a Worm in their Stomach, which makes them fo mad and frantic, that rowing upon the Thames you fhall lave three or four in an Evening leap into your Boat. A Waterman once opened one, and found 1 little Worm in it, not unlike to them which grow in Oxens Skins, wherewith they are often enraged, but far lefs: they are counted a tender, :ut never a wholefome Meat, becaufe they are '0 fubjedl to Frenzy and Giddinefs. j| CYPRINI. CARPIONES. ' Carps are of a fweet Tafte, and much good \ T ourifhment, in which refpechs they were dedi- :ated to Ftenus, difcommended for nothing but that hey will not lad long ; wherefore they are foitli- vith to be drefs’d, becaufe, thro’ Lightnefs of heir Subftance, they will foon corrupt. The °ortuguefe fuppofe that Carps feed upon Gold, be- 'aufe nothing almoll is found in their Bellies, but a M 3 yellow 270 Health’j Improvement. yellow glittering Sand ; which Opinion is alfo in- creafed, in that they ly only at the Bottom of Wa¬ ters : The River Carp is mod wholef'onie, if the Ground of that River be Gravel or clean Sand ; otherwife take them out of gravelly Ponds fed with Springs, and fatted with convenient Meat, where they will not only increafe mightily in Number and Bignefs, but alfo get a very pleafant Tafte and a wholetome Nature : The middle-fized Carp is ever beft, agreeing with 2II Times, Ages and Complexions. The Tongue is the moft nourifh- T'.g part of all, but the Spawn is heavy and un- wholefome however it be drefs’d. r \ he Head of a Carp, the Tail of a Pike, and the Belly of a Bream are mod efteemed, for their Tendernefs, Shortnefs, and well relilhing. Some bake a Carp with Spice, Fruit and Butter; but in my Judg¬ ment being fodden like a Bream, it is of as good a Tafte and better Nourifhment. A red Cavialy is made of their Spawn in Italy , much eaten and defired of the Jews, for that they dare not eat of the Cavialy of Sturgeons, Seals and I unny, be- caufe they are only to feed upon fcaled Fifh, and fuch as carry Fins. Above all things fee that your Carps ftink not of Mud nor lenny Filth, for they cannot then be wliolelome for Man s Body. locustellt:. astaci. car abb j Crevifies and Shrimps were appointed by God, faith Dorion^ as Athenczus writeth, for queezy Stomachs, and give alfo a kind of Exercife tor fuch as be weak : for Head and Bread muft firft be divided from their Bodies; then each ot them muft be difcaled, and clean picked with much pidling ; then the long Gut lying along the Back of the Crevifs is to be voided. Laftly, the ftnall Claws Of MEATS. 271 Claws are to be broken, wherein lieth part of the bed Meat. Crevifies feed upon Fidi, Water- Herbs, and fweet Clay, but mod gladly upon the Livers of young Beads: before we are to ufe them, it were good to diet them in aCidern with Crumbs of white Bread for three or four Days together, fo will they be cieanfed of all Impurities, and give a more ftrong and fine Nourifliment. They ihould be fodden in the Water whence they were taicen with a little Salt, and never kept above a Day after, for they will foon fmell and putrefy : we do foolifhly to eat them lad, being a fine, tem¬ perate 2nd nourifhing Meat. They are bed from the Spring until Autumn, and at the Full of the Moon they are mod commendable. The Fe¬ males likewife are better than the Males, which a wife Man will foon difcern : for confumed Per- fons, they are fird to be wafli’d in Barley-water, and then to be fodden in Milk, being fird difcal- ed, till they be tender j according as before I wrote of Shrimps. LEUCISCI. Daces or Darts, or Dares, be of a fweet Tade, a foft Flelh and good Nourilhmdnt, either fodden or broiled, or pickled like Anchovies after the Italian Manner. ANGUIL L JE. Eels have fo fweet a Flefh, that they and the Lampreys were dedicated to that filthy Goddefs Gala, or Gluttony ; yet withal it is fo unwhole- lome, that fome Zoilus or Motnus would have ac- cufed Nature, for putting fo fweet a Tade into fo dangerous a Meat: for Eels, as Hippocrates writ- eth, live mod willingly in muddy Places; and in M 4 his 2 7 2 H ealth’j Improvement. his Epidemics he rehearfeth many Mifchiefs to have happened to divers through eating of Eels ; they give much Nourifhmenr, hut very corruptible : they loofen the Belly, but bring Fluxes; they open the vv ind-pipes, but If op the Liver ; they clear the Voice, but infeCt the Lungs; they increafe Seed, but yet no good Seed : finally, they bring Agues, hurt the Stomach and Kidneys, ingender Gravel, caufe the Stranguary, fharpen the Gout, and nh us full of many JDifeafcs ; they are*worit m Summer, but never wholefome, the elder ones are leaf! hurtful; and it anv be harmlefs, it is the fiiver-beilied and the Tandy Eel. Armldus de villa iiaxa, faith, that no Eel is free from a venomous Malignity and a kind ofgluttilh fuffocating Juice. But jovius reportetb, that fome Eels are ingender- e ; in a little River by Cremona , lefs a great deal than our little Grigs, hurtful in no Difeafe, but of a pure wholefome and good Nourifhment, which I will believe becaufe fo grave a Chronicler re¬ ported) it; otherwife I fhould think ill, with Hip¬ pocrates , of all Eels, even of thofe little ones as well as the Eds in Ganges , which are thirty foot long, as Pliny writeth. Verily when Eels only link to the Bottom, and all other Fifhes float after they-are dead, it cannot but argue them to be of a muddy Nature, little participating of that aerial SuMtance which rr.ovcth and lightneth other F iflies. Again, lince like an Owl it never comes I abroad but in the Night-time, it argueth a me- lancbolic Difpofition in itfelf, and a Likelihood to,, beget the like in us. Great Eds arebeft roafted and' roil’d, becaufe their malign Humour lieth more next the Skin than in their Elefh,which is correct¬ ed or evaporated by the Fire. Next of all, they are belt poudeied and fouced, and baked with Butter, Of M E A T S. 273 Batter, Salt and Pepper ; but worft being fodden in Water, Ale and Yeft, as commonly they are ; for the Yell: addeth' one Malignity to another, and doth more Hurt than I can exprefs to the Sto¬ mach, Liver and Blood. RHOMBI FLUVIATILES. Flounders, if they be thick and well grown, are a moll wholefome and light Meat, being fodden with Water and Verjuice, or fried with Vinegar and Butter ; but the little Hounders call¬ ed Dabs, as they are little efteemed of, fo their waterifh and flaggy Flefh doth juflly deferve it. THYME Grailings, called both of Greeks and Latins , 'Thymi , becaufe their Flefh fmelleth like I hyme when they be in feafon, are white, firm, and yet a tender Meat, tailing no worfe than it fmells, and nourifhing plentifully. Seethe it in fuch fort as was deferihed in our Treatife before of drelfing Breams, and you will find few Fifh.es comparable unto if: of all Fifhes they only want a Gall, which perhaps is the Caufe of their greater Excellency. G O B I O N E S. Gudgeons are of two forts, one whiter and very little, the other bigger and blackifh ; both are as wholefome as a Perch ; but if any be found yel- lowifn, they are dry, lean and unfeafonable. Galen commendeth their Flefh exceedingly, not only becaufe it is fhort and pleafant in Fafle, being fat and friable ; but alfo for that it is foon concocted, nourifheth much, and increafeth good Blood. They are bell which ly about rocky and gravelly M 5 Places* 274 Health^ Improvement. Places, for Fenny and Lake Gudgeons be not wholefome. m PAGANELLI. Rondeletlus , in his Book of Fifties, mentioneth two Sea-Gudgeons, called Paganelli , of a far greater Length and Bignefs than ours are, which our weftern Fifhermen call by the Name of Sea- cobs : they fometimes come up the River of U/k, where they are taken and brought to Exeter , and accounted, as they are indeed, a raoft found, light, wholefome and nourifhing Meat. CAPITONES. Gulls, Guffs, Pulches, Chevins, and Millers- thumbs, are a kind of jolt-headed Gudgeons, "very fweet, tender, and wholefome, efpecially when they be with Spawn ; for their Eggs are many and fat, giving good Nouriihment; and tho’ their Flefh be hard in Albertius' s Judgment, yet it never putrefieth, and is well digefted. F U N D U L I. Groundlings are alfo a kind of Gudgeons never lying from the Ground, freckled as it were on each Side with feven or eight Spots; they are fea- fonable in Alarcb , Aprils and May ; the beft ly loweft, and feed fined,' fucking upon Gravel; but they which ly near to great Cities feed upon Filth, and delight in the dead Carcafes of Men and Beads, therefore called of the Germans , Lcij~t tejfers. All forts of Gudgeons be wholefome either fodden or fried, agreeing with all Conftitutions of Body, Sickneffes and Ages. PUN- 2 75 Of M E A T S. PUNGIC1I SPINACHLE. Hackles or Sticklebacks are fuppofed to come of the Seed of Fifhes fpilt or mifcarrying in the Wa¬ ter; fome think they ingender of their own Ac¬ cord, from Mud or Rain putrefied in Ponds: how- foever it is, they are nought and unwholefome, fufficient to quench poor Mens Hunger, but not to nourifh either rich or poor. Jacks or young Pickrels fliall be defcribed here¬ after, when we fpeak of the Nature of Pikes. Kobs or Sea-Gudgeons, taken yet in frefh Water, are before fpoken of in the Difcourfe of Gudgeons. LAMPRET7E MUR7EN7E. Lampreys and Lamprons differ in Bignefs only and in Goodnefs; they are both a very fweet and nourifhing Meat, increafing much Luft through fuperfiuous Nourifhment; were they as whole- fome as fweet, I would not much difcoramend Lucius Mutizna and the Nobles of England for fo much coveting after them ; but how ill they are even for ftrong Stomachs, and how eafily a Man may furfeit on them, not only the Death of King Henry I. but alfo of many brave Men and Captains, may l'ufficiently demonftrate. Pliny avoucheth, that they ingender with the Land-Snake; but fince they ingender and have Eggs at all times of the Year, 1 fee no reafon for it. Ar'flotle faith, that another long FifhJike the Lamprey, called Myrus y is the Sire ; which Licinius Macer oppugneth, affirming conftantly that he hath found Lampreys upon the Land ingendering with Serpents, and that Fifhermen counterfeiting the Serpent’s Hifs, can call them out of the Water and take them at pleafure. They are beft, if ever good, in March M 6 and 276 Health*/ Improvement. and April\ for then are they fo fat, that they have in a manner no Back-bone at all: Towards Summer they wax harder, and then have they a manifeft Bone, but their Flefh is confumed. Seethe or bake them thoroughly, for otherwife they are of hard and very dangerous Digeftion. Old Men, gouty Men, and aguifn Perfons, and whofoever is troubled in the Sinews or finewy Parts, fliould fhun the eating of them no lefs than if they were Serpents indeed. The Italians drefs them after this fort; full they beat them on the Tail with a Wand, where their Life is thought to ly, till they be almoil dead, then they gag their Mouth with a whole Nutmeg, and flop every eyelet-hole with a Clove, afterwards they caft them into Oil and Malmfy boiling together, calling in after them fome Crumbs of Bread, a few Almonds blanch’d and minced ; whereby their Malignity is corrected and their Flefh bettered. Cajus Hercius was the fir ft that ever hem’d them in Ponds, where they multiplied and profpered in fuch fort, that at Ccsfar the Dictator's triumphal Suppers, he gave him fix thoufand Lampreys for each Supper ; he fed them with Liver and Blood of Beafts : But Vidius Pollio , a Roman Knight, and one of Augujlus *s Minions, fed his Lampreys with his Slaves Carcaftes; not becaufe Beafts were not fufficient to feed them, but that he took a plesfure to fee a thoufand Lampreys fucking alto¬ gether like Horfe-leeches upon one Man. Concerning our Englijh Preparation of them, a certain Friend of mine gave me this Receipt of baking and drefting Lampreys, namely, firft to pouder them, after parboiling, with Salt, Thyme, and Origanum, then either to broil them as Smatchcocks, or to bake them with Wine, Pep-, per. Of MEATS. 277 )er, Nutmegs, Mace, Cloves, Ginger and good tore of Butter. The little ones called Lamprons ire be ft broil’d, but the great ones called Lam- >reys are belt baked. Of all our Engli/lj Lam- ireys, the Severn Dweller is molt worthily com- nended, for it is whiter, purer, fweeter, fatter, nd of lefs Malignity than any other. L O C H JE. Loches, Meat (as the Greek Word importeth) For Women in Childbed, are very light, and of excellent Nourifhment; they have a Flelh like Liver, and a red Spleen, which are molt delicate n Tafte, and as wholefome in Operation. ipuee Cobite?, Gcfneri , Aliniatce Cali , Phoxini Bellcnii. Minoes, fo called either for their Littlenefs, or as Dr. Cajus imagined) becaufe their Fins be of jo lively a red, as if they were dyed with the true Cinnabar-lake, called Minium. They are lefs han Loches, feeding upon nothing, but licking ine another. Gefner thinks them to ingender of he wafte Seed of Gudgeons; others, that they ngender of themfelves out of unknown Matter"; et certain it is that they are ever full of Spawn, rhich fhould argue a natural Copulation of them vith forne little Fifn or other: they are a molt elicate and light Meat, their Gall being warrily oided without breaking, either fried or fodden. M U L L I. . . Mullets of the River be of like Goodnefs with he Sea-Mullets, tho’ not fully of fo fine and pure ubftance. Pholoxenus the Poet, fupping at the ■>wer Mafs in Dionyftus's Court, took faddenly a little 278 Health’^ Improvement. little lean Mullet out of the Difh, and fet his E. to the Mouth of it; whereat Dionyftus laughin; and afking him what News ? Marry, quoth he, Y tells me of fome ftrangeNews in the River, when of none, as he faith, can more fully inform ir than yonder great Mullet in the upper Difh : for his pleafant Jeft he got the greater j and with gives us to note, that unlefs a Mullet be large ar fat, it is but a frivolous Difh, making a gre Shew on the Table, but little nourifhing. Ho they are beft to be drefs’d, is already fpecifie when I wrote of Breams. VITULiE. Olaffs, or rather Old Wives, becaufe of the mumping and four Countenance, are as dain i and wholefome of Subffance as they are large 1 Body. It was my Chance to buy one about Pu ncy , as I came from Mr. Secretary Walftnghanx Houfe about ten Years fince; which I caufed be boil’d with Salt, Wine and Vinegar, and. little Thyme ; and I proteft that I never did e: a more white, firm, dainty and wholefome Fifh. P E R C JE. j Pearchesare a moft wholefome Fifh, firm, ten der, white and nourifhing. dufonius calieth the i delicias menf fweet Herbs, and you (hall find it a delicate ani wholefome Fifh. * ViOLACE^ EPELANI RONDELETIL Smelts are fo called becaufe they fmell fo fweet yea, if you draw them, and theh dry them in fhadowy Place, being feafonably taken ; they ftil retain a Smell as it were of Violets. Their Flefi is of the fineft, lighteft, fofteft, and beft Juice c all other Filh ; their Excellency is in Winter and whenfoever they are full of Spawn. Wefteri Smelts have the greateft Commendation for thei Greatnefs and Goodnefs. Void the Gall cleanly, and then ufe the Livers, Guts, Bellies and Fat for great Reftoratives. The beft are taken bj Kew and Brentford , within eight Miles of London and at IVeJl-chrJler. Seethe them in hot boilin' Water and Salt, and take them out as foon a; they are fodden ; for lying long in the Water the] will wax flaggy : their Sauce is Butter and Ver juice mingled with a little grofs Pepper; but i you fry them in Butter, eat them with the Juict of Sevill Oranges, for that is their beft Sauce. T RUTT /E . Trouts are fo great in Northumberland , tha they feem thicker than Salmons, and are therefon called Bull-Trouts; there are efpecially two fort; of them, Red Trouts refembling little frefti Watei Salmons, and therefore termed Salmon Trouts ; ant Of MEATS. 283 and Gray Trouts or SkurfFs, which keep not in the Channel of Rivulets or Rivers,but lurk like the ^Alderlings under the Roots of great Alders; they jare both a very pleafant and good Meat for found jPerfons; but they are vaftly miftaken v> ho pre¬ fer them in Agues before Pearches, whofe Flefli is tender, friable, light, of good Juice, and fpeedy Conco&ion, when they are in no one thing com¬ parable unto them : they are beft being fodden like a Bream and eaten hot, for being eaten cold 'they lofc much of their Grace, and more of their jGoodnefs. TIN C JE. Tenches are naturally fuch Friends to Pikes, ‘that pity it is they fhould be feparated ; yet fince I have followed the Order of the Alphabet, I could not but divide them in Name, tho’ they agree in Nature. Old Writers hardly vouchfafe to men¬ tion them, becaufe they were only efteemed as Beggars Meat: the very Feeling and Smell of them (hew, that a Tench is but a muddy and flimy Fifh. Albertus living 1252 Years after Chrift, was the firft that ever wrote of the Na¬ ture of the Tench. His Flefh i ? hopping, (limy, vifcous, and very unwholefome ; and as Alexander Benediftus writeth, of a mofl unclean and dam- nab e Nourifhment. Antonins Gazins faith, that a fried Tench is a fecret Poifon ; and 1 remem¬ ber that Dr. Cajus , whofe Learning I reverence, was wont to call T enches good Plaifters, but bad Nourifhers : for indeed being outwardly laid to the Soles of ones Feet, they oftentimes draw away the Ague, but inwardly taken they ingender Pal- fies, hop the Lungs, putrefy in the Stomach, and bring a Man that much eats them to infinite Dif- eales ; 284 Health’j Improvement. cafes; they are very hard of Digeftion, burden I fome to the Stomach, increafing flimy Nourift mcnt, and breeding Palfies and Apoplexies in th Head : h rom Afay to November they are ver dangerous; afterwards hot, choleric, and labour| ing Men maybe refrefhed by them, but non elfe : they are worft being fried, beft being kep in Geliy, made ftrong of Wine and Spices. U M B R JE. Umbers have a dry and whitifh Flefh, lilt, the FleQi of Gray Trouts, be : ng of the liki Subftance, Quality and Goodnefs, and needini] no other Preparation. Fhe Belly of it is prefer red before the other parts, and is wholefomefl: ii the Dog-days. Pifanellus faith, that it is called Umbra in Latin , becaufe it fwimeth in the Riven like a Shadow ; and hecommendeth it exceeding¬ ly for young and hot Stomachs, as that alfo it k foon concodfed and increafeth Seed. c H A P. XX. Of fuch living Creatures and Meats as le neither FleJh nor F;Jh , and yet give good Nourtjhmeni to the Body. COCHEL/E TERRESTRES. NAILS are little efteemed of us in England , but in Barbary , Spain and Italy , they are eaten as a molt dainty, wholefome, nourifhing, and re- „ Coring iMeat. Let us beware when, and in vs/hat fort we ufe them ; tor they are naught whilft they feed, Of MEATS. 285 ceed, but towards Winter having fcoured them- felves from all Excrements, and batter’d themfelves fat with Sleep, then are they wholefomeft : alfo if they feed in Woods, or in Gardens full of Phyfic Herbs,they are ftrongbothof Smell and Tafte,and dangerous to eat of. They defire of all other Herbs to feed of Daffadils and Afphodels; but then they are not fo good as thofe that feed upon other Herbs and Fruits, but efpecially upon Dew-berries. In Cadiz and Spain they feed chiefly upon Orange- flowers, which make them very pleafant in eating. In the Iflands of Majorca and Minorca , they never come out of their Caves, but live by fucking one another’s Shell, hanging together like a Clufter of Grapes; which no doubt are of a purer Sub- ftance than ours, that fuck and feed upon all Herbs. Fulvius Hilpinus , not long before the Civil War betwixt Ccefar and Pompey , made in his Garden feveral Snail-parks, as I may call them, keeping every kind by themfelves •, there might one find the white Snails of Reate , the gray and great Snails of Illyricum , the fruitful Snails of Africa , and the Solitan Snails mod famous and excellent of all others ; which he fullered not to feed upon what they lifted, but made certain Pap with fweet Wine, Honey and Flour, whereby they were fed fo fat, and became fo wholefome, fweet and deli¬ cate, that they were highly efteemed, being fold every Difhful for fourfcore Quadrants. But fince no Man is in hope to gain fo much by that Occu¬ pation, they which muft needs ufe them, may chufe them in this fort: Firft, let them chufe them of middle Size, feeding all Summer-time in hilly Places upon wholefome Herbs. Secondly, Let them not eat them till September be paft, for by that time they are thoroughly purged of all Excre- 286 Health's Improvement. Excrements. Alfo, they are unfit for weak, co and moift Complexions, becaufe they themfelv are cold in the firft Degree, and moift in the f cond. They are beft for hot Stomachs, choler Conftitutions, thirfty Diftemperatures, watchf Brains, and Men troubled with Ulcers of tl Lungs, and free from all Stoppings and Inflamm; tions of the Kidneys. Pliny wills them to 1 firft parboil’d in warm Water with fweet Herb and then to be broil’d upon the Coals, and to t eaten ever in an odd Number; but if you dre them as Apicius appoints Periwinkles to be drefs’t which I before defcribed in the Treatife of Per w-inkles, they wall prove a light, wholefome an good Nourifhment. TESTUDINES. f Tortoifes are likewife no ufual Meat among! us; yet becaufe I fee no reafon but that Riot ma bring them in, and make them as familiar unto u as Turkies are, I will write fomething of thei Choice, Ufe, Hurtfulnefs, Correction and Degree of Temperature. Chufe ever the greateft, fullef of Eggs, livelieft eyed, and fatted at home witi the beft Meat. Their Flelh nourifhes plentifully and recovers Men out of Confumptions; yet is i flowly digefted of weak Stomachs, ingenderint thick and phlegmatic Blood, and making the Eat¬ ers fleepy and flothful. Wherefore feethe birr thoroughly in many Waters with fweet Herbs anc hot Spices, efpecially for that it is no lefs cold that: Snails, and fully as moift, agreeing only at fuel; times of the Year, and for fuch kind of Perform as Snails be thought convenient for. m. RAM 287 Of MEATS. R A MM. Frogs are of hard Concoction, troublefome to he Stomach, breeding much Phlegm, and giving 10 found, yea rather a bad Juice: yet Water- rogs are beft of the bigger fort, and both bred nd taken in a dry Seafon. Their Hinder-parts nd Livers, which be two in each, are the beft o be eaten ; and being thoroughly fodden in Oil, lit Water and Vinegar, and eaten with Sauce nade of fweet Herbs, Onions and Scallions, they re no bad Meat for choleric young Men, tho’ Dr old and phlegmatic Perfons they be wholly un- rofitable. They are moift in the firft Degree, nd cold in the fecond, and therefore to be cor¬ ded with hot and drying Simples. MEL. Honey and Bread was a great Meat with Py- mgoras and his Scholars, and counted a fuflicient ood for a temperate Life : for Bread (Lengthens le Body, and Honey both nourifhes much, and fo cleanfeth away Superfluities. Pollio Romulus ;ing afk’d by Augujlus the Emperor how he lived ' long ? By nourilhing, faith he, my Inwards ith Honey, and my outward Parts with Oil. 'he like Anfwer likewife made Democritus , be- g demanded the like Queftion. Furthermore, is fo general a Meat through all Rujfia , that ie Children eat it on their Bread every Morn- g, as ours do Butter to their Breakfaft; with horn, and with old Men, it agreeth exceeding ell, cleanling their Breafts, opening their Pipes, arming their Stomachs, refifting Putrefaction, ocuring Solublenefs and Urine, and ingenderinp- 'eet and commendable Blood ; but young Men^ hofe Moifture is lefs than Childrens, through 2 288 Health’^ Improvement. Sharpnefs of Heat, and whofe Stomachs are hot than old Mens, by much eating of Honey inflai their Blood, increafe Choler, bloody Flux. Wind, and Obftrudtions, together with a con nual loathing of Meat, and a Difpofition to v mit. Honey-cakes were wont to be a great D in old times at the end of Banquets, as Gingi bread is with us ; which Cuftom Macrobius a Gellius have juftly reproved, becaufe fweet thir being lad eaten, open the Mouth of the Stomac which after Meat fliould be clofed, and as it w( fealed up to help Concodfion: Wherefore Pij nellus doth very well in preferring us to eat Sug; rofin, or fome four Fruits after Honey, to prevc the ingendering of Choler in the Stomach, and help the fame whild it conco£teth. Raw Hon is never good, therefore clarify it throughly at t Fire; and chufe the whited, pured, cleare mod: glidering and thicked, for they are Noi of the bed Floney : alfo let it be Honey that r and was never preffed out of the Combs, and young Bees rather than old, feeding upon Thym Rofemary, Flowers, and fuch fweet and who) fome Herbs. Then may you boldly give it Meat to young Children, to cold and moid Cor plexions, and to rheumatic old Men, efpecial in Northern Countries and cold Climates, and the Winter Seafon. C H AS Of fruits. 289 CHAP. XXI. ®f Fruit, and the Differences thereof. XTOW.we are come to the laft Courfe, which in ancient and more healthful Ages was the nrft and only, whilft Mens Hands were neither polluted with the Blood of Beafts, nor fmell’d of the moft unwholefome Scent of Fiffi. This kind of Meat is commended (like the Hebrew Xongue) for three principal Reafons, Antiquity, Purity, and Sufficiency ; for it was more ancient than ei¬ ther Fleffi or f ilh by two thouland Years; it is fa pure of itfelf that it never defiles the Hand, nor needeth any great dreffing: and that it is fufficient to maintain us long in Life, not only the Hiftory of the firfl: twelve Patriarchs, but alfo whole Na¬ tions living at this Day in India , Africa and Afia % and fome parts of Europe , do fufficiently declare, feeding wholly or principally of Fruit; whereof I find three chief or efpecial kinds, namely, Or¬ chard-fruit growing upon "Frees; Garden-fruit growing upon Shrubs, Herbs and Roots; and field-fruit, included under the Name of Grain. CHAP. XXII. Of all Orchard Fruit. Pruna Anneniaca Chryfomela. APricots are Plums difiembled under a Peach’s \ Coat, good only and commendable for their | and fragrant Smell, their Flefh quickly cor- N rupting 290 Health^ Improvement. rupting and desenerating into Choler and wheyifli Excrements, ingendering peftil'ent Agues, flopping the Liver and Spleen, breeding ill'Juice, and giving either none or weak Nourifhment; yet are they medicinal and wholefome for fome Perfons, for they provoke Urine, quench Thirft : and Syrup made of the Infufion of dried Apricots, qualifies the burning Heat and Rage of Fevers : They are leaft hurtful to the Stomach, and moft comfort¬ able to the Brain and Heart, which be fweet ker- nel'd, big and fragrant, growing behind a Kit¬ chen-Chimney, as they do at Barn-elms , and fo thoroughly ripened by the Sun, that they will eafily part from their Stone. They are beft be¬ fore Meat, and fitteft for hot Stomachs ; but let not Women eat many of them, and let them alfo remember to drown them well in Sack or Canary Wine. Galen preferreth Apricots before Peaches, becaufe they are not fo foon corrupted; whereas common Experience fheweth the contrary : for as Apricots are fooneft ripe, fo of all other Stone- Fruit they fooneft corrupt in a Man’s Stomach. amigdale Almonds, into whom fair Phillis was turned, as Poets imagine, are of two forts, fweet and bit¬ ter. Thefe are fitteft for Medicine, but the fweet ones for Meat. The fweet Almonds are fometimes eaten green of Women with Child, to procure Appetite ; and in Summer of others, be¬ caufe then they are moft pleafant: but they nou- rifh moft after the Fall, when they are fully ripe,j being blanched into cold Water : they fatten the Body, give plentiful bJourifhment, increafe b lefljj and Seed, help the Brain and Eye-fight, purg ^ 1 the Breaft by fpitting, clear the Voice, cleanfc the 0/fruits. 4 9i the Kidneys, and provoke Sleep ; eat them not when they are very old and wrinkled, for then they ftay long in the Stomach and breed Head-achs r if they be eaten with Sugar, as they are in March- paens, or in Cullices, JMortiies, Rice Porridge, or Almond-Milks, they are of greater Nourifh- ment and more eafy Digeftion ; but then they are to be eaten alone, not in the middle, and much lefs in the end of Meals. MALA. Apples be fo divers of Form and Subfiance, that it were infinite to defcribe them all; fome confift more of Air than Water, as your Puffs called Mala pulmonea ; others more of Water than Wind, as your Cuftards and Pome-waters, called Hydro- tica : Others being firft grafted upon a Mulberry- ftock wax thorough red, as our Queen-apples, called by Ruellius , Rubelliana , and Claudiana by Pliny. Roundlings are called Mala Sceptiana , of Sceptius \ and Winter-Goldlings, Scandiana Plinii ; Pippins, Mala Petifia\ Pear-apples, Melapia ; and Pear-mains or Peauxans no doubt be thofe dppiana Mala which Jppius grafted upon a Quince, melling fweetly, and tailing a little tart, continu- n g in his Goodnefs a Year or two. To be ihort, ill Apples may be forted into three kinds, fweet, bur and unfavoury. Sweet Apples moiften the Belly, open the Breaft, ripen Rheums, eafe the --ough, quench Thirft, help fpitting, cure Me- ancholy, comfort the Heart and Head, efpecially f they be fragrant and odoriferous, and alfo give a audable Mourifhment. Sour Apples ftay the Belly, hinder fpitting, ftraiten the Breaft, gripe nd hurt the Stomach, increafe Phlegm, and Weaken Memory. Unfavoury Apples are unfit N 2 -for 2^2 Health’^ Improvement. for our eating, appointed rather to fat Hogs and Swine, than to come into our Stomachs. Ole Apples are beft, if they be fuch as can bear Age, becaufe by long lying they lofe two ill Qualities. Waterilhnefs and Windinefs, and have alfo a more perfe£t and pleafing Tafte. As Nuts, figs anc Mulberries, be beft towards the loweft Boug is fo contrariwife Plums, Apples and Pears, be bef from the Top of the Tree, and hanging on the Sunny-ftde. Sweet Apples are to be eaten at the beginning of Meat, but four and tart Apples a the latter end. All Apples are worft raw, anc beft baked or preferved. None at all are gooi fodden befides the Codlin ; which afterwards be ing made into Tart Stuff, and baked with Rofe water and Sugar, is no bad Meat: their Coldnef and Waterifhnefs is foon correded, either " baking, roafting, or preferving with Cinnamon Ginger, Orange-pills, Anife-feed, Cartaway feed, fweet Fennel-feed, and fweet Butter. Now whereas the old Proverb, Ab ova ad mala fheweth that Apples were ever the laft Difh fe upon the Board, you muft underftand it of tartil and four Apples, or elfe juftly, tho’ newly, n fault with an old Cuftom. Philip of Macedonia and Alexander his Son, (from whom perhaps a cu rious and fkilful Herald may derive our Lancajbii Men) were called Philomel /, Apple-lovers, be caufe they were never without Apples in their Poc kets; yea, all the Macedonians his Countryme did fo love them, that having near Babylon fui prifed a Fruiterer’s Hoy, they ftnved fo for that many were drowned ; which b lght was then fore called by Hiftoriographers, Melomachia, tl Apple-fight j but cruel Fluxes furpnfed the Arm upon thisj and many died of intolerable^Gripmj i 2 93 Of FRUITS. Oxyacanthus Spina acida. Barberries prefer ved, are a great refrefhing to hot Stomachs and aguifh Perfons; and being kept in Pickle, they ferve for Sallads and the garnifh- ing of Meat; but they are of very little Nourifh- ment themfelves, or rather of none at all, tho’ by a pleafant Sharpnefs they edge an Appetite. Prunus Sylvejlris Regius. Bullices likewife, both white,fpeckled and black, are of the like Nature, being ftewed, baked,roaft- ed or preferved ; fitter to be eaten laft, to clofe up the upper Mouth of the Stomach, than firft to flop the nether Mouth, unlefs it be in Fluxes. S O R B I. Servifes, like to Medlers, are then truly ripe when they are rotten ; if you would chufe the belt, chufe the biggeft, moft poulpy, and voideft of Stones. They are cold in the firft Degree, and dry in the third, giving little Nourifti- ment but flaying Fluxes, and prevent- .ng Drunkennefs, flrengthening the Stomach, md making a fweet Breath : their great Aftrin- ^ency fheweth that they are to be eaten laft, for itherwife they will bind the Body, burden the itomach, and ingender many grofs Humors. Pliny maketh four kinds of Servifes, one as round is an Apple, another bottled like a Pear, the third ival, made like an Egg. The Apple-fervife is noft fweet, fragrant and nourifhing, the other of moft winy Tafte. The fourth kind of Servife ii> a very little one, called the Torment-fervife, flowed for nothing but that it ceafeth the Tor¬ ments of bloody Fluxes. N 3 . CHERRIES. 294 Health’j Improvement. CHERRIES. Cherries were neither brought into Italy nor England till Lucius Lucullus returned from his Victory again# Mithridates ; whereof there are chiefly four forts among# us, viz. Juliana , Julians, whirh are red, foft and pulpy, never good but under the Tree ; for they rot in Carriage a little way. Aproniana , Apronians, which are red, round, and harder, and can abide the Carriage. Duracina. Duracines, or in French Cceurs , or Heart- Cherries, becaufe they are made like a Heart, which are the firmed: of all other. ASliana. The blacked: of all be called Asians, becaufe they were brought from Attium, a Promontory of Epire. In England we have alfo feen white Cherries growing, wherein the artificial Choler marreth the good Nature and Tafte of them, wherefore I will not commend them for Whole- fomenefs, but {hew their Rarenefs. Concerning their Ufes, let us remember thus much, that the Cceurs ox French Cherries are mo# cordial, the common and pulpy Cherries mod nourhhing, the black Cherry’s Kernel is the be# Meat, but his Flefn unwholefome and loathfome to the Stomach. Furthermore our common Cherries being ripe and eaten from the Tree in a dewy Morning, loofen the Belly ; when contrariwife Cceurs and red four Cherries bind the fame, being of a more dry and aftringent Faculty. Of F R U I T S. 295 All Cherries, faving them which are black, flack Third, cool moderately, and procure Ap¬ petite. Sweet and ripe Cherries fhould be eaten foremoft ; others are to be eaten lad, either fcald- ed or baked, or made into Tart Stuff, or preferved with Sugar, or rather dried after the German man¬ ner, which they keep all the Year long to quench Third in Agues, to cool Choler, to dir up Ap¬ petite, to unfur the Tongue and relifli the Mouth, to day puking, vomiting, and all kind of Fluxes. CASTANET NUCES. Chefnuts are fo difcommended of Galen in his Book of Thin Diet, that they fhculd be little edeemed, had not latter Ages better confidered of their Nature. Pliny thought, and I allow his Reafon, that it could not be a vile Meat, which Nature had hidden with fuch wonderful and arti¬ ficial Covers or Hufks. Divas Tiberius having been in Sardinia , or rather, as I take it, at Sardis in Lydia , brought from thence fome Chefnuts, and fet them in Italy , whence no doubt they were de¬ rived into France and England. It is quedioned by fome whether raw Chefnuts may not ingender lace. But the French Chefnut is bigger, tenderer, and far fweeter than curs ; whereof there are two kinds, the one of a light and reddifh Colour, fitted to be roaded ; the other refembling a dark bay, inclining to a blackifh brown, called Cottiva? of Pliny , becaufe they are bed fodden. Of all Chef- nuts chufe the bigged, fulled, browned and round¬ ed, and let them be three Months old at the lead before you eat them: If you eat too many, they breed Head-achs, Cholics and Coltivenefs ; but feed moderately upon them in the midd of Meals and they nourifh without Offence. They are N 4 dry 296 Health’j Improvement. ory in the fecond Degree, and almoft as hot as cry j but teething remits a little of each, as roaft- ing addeth fomewhat to either Quality. They are ben in W inter, agreeing with moift Complexi- oni 3 ar -d fuch as are to fubjedt to Stoppings of the Breaft and Liver. Mala Medica & Citria. Citrons were not known in Homer*6 time to be any Meat ; only the Pills thereof were burnt with Cedar-wood in I emples, when they facrificed to Apollo-, as thinking the Fume of it a fpecial Pre- fervative againft the Plague; neither is the Juice of them fince commended but to refill Poifon, to qualify Humours putrefied within the Body, to make a fvveet Breath, to cure hot burning Agues, and to cure the longing of Women with Child ; tor which yet the Seeds are thought moft medici¬ nal, Neverthelefs I am fure, as ripe Citrons in Spain do nourifh Spaniards , fo preferved Citrons may no lefs nourifh us, confidering that their cor- rohve Quality is altered by Sugar, and their Cold- nefs made temperate thorough parboiling. _ Pruna Damafcena. Damfons, which were firfl brought from the Mount of Damafcus in Syria , are a mofl whole- feme Plum of all others, giving moderate Nou- rifhment in hot Weather to young, choleric, and dry Stomachs. The moft nourifhing be fully ripe, fweet, plump, and thin-fkin’d. Our Cuftom is very bad to eat ripe Plums laft, when their Sweetnefs and Lightnefs perfuades us to eat them foremoft. Ripe Damfens eaten whilft the Dew is upon them are more medicinal than Meat; but being eaten at the beginning of Dinner or Of F R U I T S. 297 or Supper, they are more Meat than Medicine, and give an indifferent Suftenance to an indiffe¬ rent Stomach, efpecially when they are preferved. Damfons not fully ripe had need to be boiled or preferved, to correct their cold and crude Nature ; but as they are fit for hot Stomachs and aguifh Perfons, fo none at all are good for them that be old, or cold, or waterifh and phlegmatic of Con- ftitution. The like maybe faid of Damafk-prunes, brought out of Syria , Spain and Italy , which are fweet, nourifhing and pleafant, being (tewed or fodden ; when contrariwife the French Prune is harfh and four, fitter to cool Men in Agues, and to edge diftafted Stomachs, than to be offered any Man in the way of Meat. D A C T I L I. Dates are ufuallyput into ftew’d Broths, minced- pies, and reftorative Cullices, as tho’ they were of very great and wholefome Nourifhment. Cer¬ tain it is that they fatten much and increafe Blood, but fuch Blood as eafily turneth into hot Choler. Alexander s Soldiers were killed with new Dates; which tafte fo pleafantly, that only Danger makes a Man furceafe to eat them. The belt Dates grow by Jericho in Jewry , the next by Alexandria in Egypt ; but the Dates of Barbary and Spain have long wrinkled Bodies without Subfiance: Chufe them which are ripe and not rotten, firm and not worm-eaten, fweet and not aftringent, and at the ieaft a Year old after the gathering ; for ifuch are beft for a cold Liver, fitted: to move the Belly and to help the Cough; whereas new Dates bind excefiively, flop the Liver, Stomach, Veins, and Lungs, gripe the Guts, breed Head-ach, hurt N 5 the ! 29$ Health’^ Improvement. tTie Teeth, and make little Ulcers to arife in the Mouth ; yea, ripe Dates lighting upon a bad Sto¬ mach do eafily putrefy, ingendering malign Agues and fluffing the 6ody with crude Humours, where¬ upon great Stoppings increafe both of Spleen anc Liver. They are hot in the fecond Degree, anc moift in the firft, never good when they are eater alone, or without Sugar, which hindereth their fpeedy Corruption. PraneJUnte^ Heracleotica , Pontic a id Avel- lance Nuces. Filberds and Hafelnuts, coming firft out oi Pontus, and tranflated by the Romans into oui Country, are found by Experience to nourifh the Brain, to heal old Coughs being eaten with Honey, and to flay Rheums if they be toafted. Alfo be¬ ing peel’d whilft they are green, and laid a while in Water, and eaten afterwards with Sugar or Salt at the end of Meat, they give a laudable Nourifhment, increafing Seed, tempering Blood, and making it of a good Confiftence. Chufe ever the longeft, ripeft, and thineft fhell’d, fulleft oi Meat, and freeft from Spot or Worm; alfo eat them whilft they are new, if you purpofe to nou¬ rifh much ; for afterwards they wax more oily and lefs nourifhing : they are beft towards Winter, anc fitter for ftrong and able Stomachs, becaufe they eafily overturn weak Stomachs, and procure Head-achs. Ficus CroJJi. Figs are the fweeteft Fruit of the bittereft Tree in the World; for neither Leaf, nor Bud, noi Bark, nor Wood, nor Body, nor Root, nor any part of it is fweet befides the Fruit; nay, the very Afhes of a Fig-tree are as (harp and bitter as an y Of FRUITS. 299 any Soot; yet Figs themfelves are fo fweet, that only for Love of them the Frenchmen firfl invaded Italy , and inhabited a great part of it many Years; yea Mofchus Antimolus the Sophifter having once tailed them, he hated all other Meats during his Life ; and Plato fo affecfted them, that he was called the Fig-lover ; nay, he loved them fo much, that he died of Lice, ingendered of corrupt Blood, which the Figs made : alfo Po?npeius Cohemna y Cardinal and Viceroy of Napier, died fuddenly in the Arms of Aufen Nyphus that famous Philofo- pher, with eating too many Figs. Figs are dangerous without Wine, but whole- fome with it. Wherefore let all Men beware of them, as Solomon bids us take heed of too much Honey, left our fweet Meat bring four Sauce, and Pleafure be punifhed with too late Repentance. They are feldom eaten of us green from the Tree: and of outlandifti Figs, let Diofeorides commend his yellow Figs, Athenaus his blue Figs, and Pra- tenfs his Adarifcas, or Fig-dates; yet in my Judg¬ ment the round, fhort, and thick barrel’d Figs, (having a thin Skin, and a firm Subftance, with few Seeds in them, are of all other the beft, tho* not the fweeteft, which I nothing doubt to be Callijlruthice Galleni , and thofe delicate Figs of Livia Pompeia , which Pliny writes of. The Seed of Figs nourifheth no more than a Stone, their Skin hardly digefteth, only their pulpy Subftance giveth much, tho’ no very whole- fome nor good Nourifhment. Chufe the fofteft, roundeft, neweft, foundeft, thickeft and ripeft ; and as you drink Wine upon cold and moift Fruits, fo drink fmall Drink, or fuck the four Juice of Oranges, Pomegranates, Lemons or Citrons, after Figs. Thus being taken they augment Fat, N 6 clear 300 Health’.* Improvement. clear the Countenance, provokje Venery, quench Thirfl, refifl Venom, purge the Kidneys of Gra¬ vel, and nourifh more than ahy Tree-fruit what- foever. But if you would ripen a Cold, or cleanfe your Pipes, or clear your Voice, it is befl to eat them witli ripe Almonds, or to drink them with Barley-water : Old Age is mod offended by them, and fuch as have ftopt Livers, or be of a bad and corrupt Complexion. Pijlacia , or Pfittacia. Fiflicks, or rather Piflicks, alluding to the Sy¬ rian Word, are Nuts growing in the Knob of the Syrian or Egyptian Turpentine-tree, being fo much more wholefome, good and nourifhing, by how much they are more fvveet, odoriferous, full, big and green : They nourifh plentifully, open the Liver, cleanfe the Breaft, flrengthen the Stomach and Kidneys, flay Fluxes and Vomitings, fatten the Body, {fir up Lull, and refift Poifon. They are wholefome both before and after Meat, being eaten with old Pippins or Sugar-rofin. Children and hot Complexions inufl not ufe them, for they inflame their thin Blobd, and caufe Giddinefs: but even Galen , who difeommends them more than he needed, alloweth them in W inter for cold, phlegmatic and weak Stomachs. Jfaac Faith, that they are hot and dry in the fecond •Degree, whereof indeed they want very little. U V M. Grapes differ two ways, efpecially in Subfiance and Tafle. In refpedl of Subfiance, they are ei¬ ther flefhy, which are fittefl for Meat, or winy and thin, which are fittefl to drink, being made into Wine, In refpedl of Tafle, fweet Grapes fatten Of F R U I T S. 3 0! itten and nourifh moll, being of hotted: Condi¬ tion, and fpeedieft Conco&ion; yet they fwell le Stomach, ingender Third, and loofen the ody. Sour and harfh Grapes are cold in Opera- on, hardly digeded, of little Nourifhment, grip- lg and yet binding the Belly, and therefore fitter > be taded of as Sauce than to be eaten as Meat. The Germans hang up Cluders of ripe Grapes, iffering them not to touch one another, upon fines in a cold Gallery, or rather in their Bed- hambers ; which being dried nourifh much, and et neither fwell the Stomach nor caufe Loofenefs : n heat of Agues one fuch Grape, or two at the nod, do more refrefh the Mouth, and redore he Tade, than fix Ounces of Conferve of cold arberries. Hafelnuts are already written of in our Treatife f Filberds. Mala Junla. Junitings are the fird kind of Apples which are >oned ripe, coming in and going cut with the lonth of 'June ; of a little, round, and light Sub- ance, tender Pulp, and very fragrant Smell, fent : that time to cool Choler, flack Third, and re- ore Spirits decayed with Heat of Summer; it iveth fufficient, tho’ no great nor ftrong Nourifh- lent, being fitter for young and hot Complexions lan them which are weakened with Phlegm. COR N I. Kernels or Corneols are of a very adringent and nding Tade, fit to nourifh weak Stomachs that m keep nothing, or weak Guts that void all lings : For found Men they are not good, but iten in fmall Quantity after Meat; becaufe they rmly feal up the Stomach, and accidentally help ' Con- 302 Health’j Improvement. Conco&ion. Tart Stuff or Marmalade may fc made of them to that purpofe, wherein no dout they excel Quinces. Egleutius-berries be of th like Subftance and Nature. Malutn Limonium. Lemons approach near unto Citrons, and Lim< are ingendered of them both. Their Pulp is col and dry in the third Degree, their Peel hot an dry in the fecond, and their Seed temperate ] you eat the Juice alone, it caufeth Gripings, Lear nefs and Crudities; but if you eat the Peel wit the Pulp, as Nature feemeth therefore to hav united them, the Heat of the one correð th Rawnefs of the other, and not only the Stomach but alfo the Heart is comforted by them both They of Naples and Genoa flice the beft and fourel Lemons and Citrons very thin, and having cal on Salt and Rofe-water, ufe them as a genen Sauce to all Flefh and Fifh ; by which Prepara tion an Appetite is procured, their Wine wt. tailed, and their Kidneys fcoured. But for as much as we live in a colder Climate it is beft to take the riper fort of Lemons, and t< fteep their Slices, Peel and all, in Wine, Suga and Cinnamon, upon warm Coals, and then t< eat them alone, or with our Meat. Let old an< confumed Perfons beware of them, for they wil fpend their Spirits with abundance of Urine, am alfo overthrow their natural Heat, which is rathe, to be quickened and reftored with Wine, that quenched or quelled with fo great a Cooler. * M E S P I L A. Medlers were not feen in Italy whilft Cato lived, but now in England there be too many. Con¬ cerning Of FRUITS. 3°3 :erning the Fruit itfelf, it is never good till it be rotten; wherein the bufy Meddlers of our Age may alfo worthily be compared to them : the great ones, called Setania , have molt Pulp, the little ones lefs, but more fine and fragrant; thefe alfo 3 o more comfort and bind the Stomach, tho’ the great ones excel them in plenty of Nourifhment: either fort is to be eaten laft, becaufe they are of any heavy and aftringent Nature, burdenfome to :he Stomach, and ingendering grofs Humours, if they be eaten firft. MORA. Mulberries being black and fat, which is a Sign af their full Ripenefs, are hot in the firft Degree, ind moift in the fecond ; fitteft to be eaten before Vleat, becaufe they eafily pals from out of the Stomach to the Guts, drawing the other Meat dong with themfelvesr: they pleafe the Stomach, procure Loofnefs of Body and Urine, nourifh bund and clean Bodies, tho’ they corrupt in un¬ dean Stomachs ; alfo they fmoothen the Harihnefs )f the Throat, quench Third:, delay Choler, and taufe no great, but yet a natural Appetite to Meat, rhey fhould be gathered before Sun-rifing, and pven only, as I faid, to clean Stomachs and be- "ore Meat; for they will elfe corrupt and fwell js up, and drive us perhaps into fome putrefied Tver. They are fitteft in Summer for young VIen, and fuch as abound with Blood and Choler. Unripe Mulberries, which is difcerned by their nVhitnefs and Rednefs, may be good to make Medicines for ulcered Throats and Fluxes of the 3 elly, but they deferve not $e Names of Nourifh- nents. When 304 Heajlth’j Improvement. ? i When Mulberries cannot be gotten. Black¬ berries or Dewberries may fupply their room, to which Galen afcribeth the like Virtues. This one thing let us note, omitted of all Herbarifts of our latter Age; that albeit a Mulberry Tree be called in Greek and Latin , Morns , that is to fay, a Fool ; yet her Wifdom excelleth all other Trees in my Judgment, becaufe it never budeth till all fharp Weather be clean gone, and then fpreadeth out her Leaves more in a Day than all other Trees did in thirty before. O L I V M. Olives, the defired Salad of divine Plato , are an ufual Difh at moft Mens Tables, tho’ none of them grow in England. Wild Olives are better, than thofe which are fet in City Orchards; which the very Birds do know in Italy , more coveting the wilder fort. We have three forts of them brought into our Country, Spanijh Olives, Italian Olives, and Olives of Provence. The firft fort is the biggeft, but yet the worft, being too yellow, too foft, and too full of Oil: The Italian Olive is almoft as big, but more firm of Flefn, and plea- fanter through retaining his natural Greenifhnefs. The Provence Olives are lefs than either, fome- thing bitterer alfo and more leather fkin’d, yet better for the Stomach than the Spanijh , tho’ no¬ thing near the Italian or Bononian Olive in Flefli, Tafte or Goodnefs: There alfo their Pickles are made of Water, Salt, and fweet Fennel, which giveth them a greater Grace, and maketh them lefs heavy unto weak Stomachs. All Olives, even the beft, are but of flow and little Nourifhment; ferving efpecially to provoke Appetite, to cleanfe the Stomach of Phlegm, to {Lengthen Of F R U I T S. 305 rrengthen the Guts, and to cure loathing of Meat, t were good to take them out of their fait Pickle, diich inflameth Blood, and to lay them a while ji Vinegar before we eat them, to correct their feat, and make them more agreeable to the Sto- !iach. They are beft in the midft of Meat with a ? rencb Salad; for being firft eaten, they lie heavy in te Stomach ; and laft eaten, they offend the Head nth their brackifh and fait Vapours, which hitl¬ er Sleep and increafe Third:. Malum Aurantium. Oranges are brought hither of three kinds, )me exceeding fweet, others four, and the third )rt unfavoury, or of'no Relifh. The firft fort re fweet and temperately hot, of indifferent> fourifhment, good for Stoppings of the Breaft, Lheums and Melancholy. Very four Oranges re extremely cold, making thin and waterifh tlood, and griping the Belly; but right Sevlll Granges have a pleafant Flavour betwixt fweet nd four ; whofe Juice and Flefli preferved caufe good Appetite, bridle Choler, quench Third, et neither cool nor dry in any Excefs. As for ^ nfavoury Oranges, they neither nourifh nor ferve o any good ufe, but ly heavy in the Stomach, rirring up Wind and breeding Obftrudfions in the •elly : Being eaten with Sugar and Cinnamon, 'evill Oranges give a pretty Nourifhment to aguifti erfons, whofe Stomachs can digeft no ftrong /Ieats ; and alfo their Pills preferved do fomewhat ourifin, efpecially if they be not fpoiled of the /hite Part, which is moft nourifhing, as the out¬ ward Rind contrariwife is moft medicinal; chufe he heavieft, ripeft, and beft coloured, and thofe hat tafte pleafantly betwixt fweet and four. Mala $o 6 Health’^ Improvement. f Mala Perfica. Peaches {hew manifeflly how Change of Ear and Climate may alter Natures; for Columeh and divers before Pliny's time, have recorde that in Perfia , from whence they were broug into Europe , Peaches are a deadly Poifon; b with us the Smell of a ripe, tender, and fragra Peach comforteth the Heart, and their Meat n only caufeth Appetite, makech afweet Breath, a; cooleth Choler, but alfo eafily digefteth and give good Nourifhment. I never faw greater ftore good Peaches than in Switzerland , where tl poor Men fatten themfelves and their Hogs wi them exceedingly when they are in feafon. / Peaches are to be quartered, and laid in ftroi Wine before they are eaten. Ripe Peaches, a< cording to Galen's Rule, rauft be eaten in tl beginning of Meals, becaufe they are a moift ar flippery Fruit; but hard and unripe Peaches a beft at the end of Meat (if ever they are good all) yea, tho’ they be candied or preferved ; y 1 Peaches muft be fparihgly eaten, for many a dangerous, and killed Theognojlus that fine Schc lar, fo much lamented in the Greek Epigram Four good Morfels are, Peaches, Figs, Melon and Champignois. P Y R A. Pears be of infinite kinds, becaufe Men, b grafting divers Pears together, have made of' ther infinite Mixtures. The Norwich Pear, and Si Thomas's Pear, are mod durable and very good the Sand Pear is firm and alfo nourishing ; th Lady Pear is too waterifli, tho’ beautiful in Co lour ; the Katberin Pear is fimply beft, and bei! reliftied ; the Mulk Pear is very cordial; the Long 1 ta Of FRUITS. 307 ail hath a good Verdure ; the Puff-Pear is full of ;'Vind ; the Bell-Pear is very fappy ; the Tan- ,:ard-Pear is fomewhat bitterifh and noifome to [he Stomach. But leaving their infinite Differences ,.f Shape, Colour and Time, let us only write of Jheir Differences in Tafte, which are chiefly to be ( egarded. All fweet Pears be moft nourifhing, Jleanfing the Bread of Phlegm, comforting the ! tomach, and leaft binding. Sour and harfh Pears t re exceeding hurtful to the Stomach and finewy parts; unfavoury Pears breed ill Juice, and bitter Pears nourifh nothing at all. If a well relilh’d Pear be alfo endowed with a fragrant Smell, as ,heKatberin-Pear, Violet, Poppering, Sugar-Pear, Mufk-Pear, and fuch like, they are to be prefer¬ red before all others. ' Concerning the Preparation of Pears, they are r yorft raw, and their Skin is moft unwholefome ; without Wine they are counted Poifon, efpecially 'teing largely eaten as a Meat. They are befl r eing eaten laft, as contrariwife Apples for the moft part are firft to be eaten; becaufe they are ather of a loofening than an aftringent Nature. They are better baked than roafted; but dried ’ears, in Harry Stevens’s Judgment, furpafs all or ftrong Nourifliment. They are temperate in deat and Cold, but dry in the fecond Degree, vhich caufeth them to ceafe Fluxes and Vomits, o repel Vapours, and ftrengthen the Stomach. P R U N A. Plums grow here in fuch variety, that to name hem only were a tedious Work. The moft >ulpy, fweet, pleafant and nouriftiing be thefe; ’ear-Plums, Violet-Plums, Peafcod-Plums, our wadies Plums, Wheat-Plums, Mawdlins, and Damfons, 308 Health’.? Improvement. Damfons, whereof we have already fpoken, Th leaft nourifliing, tho’ fome of them tafte not ur pleafantly, efpecially the Chriftian-Plum, an Bullices, Chriftians, Prunella’s, Skegs and Horfc Plums. All Plums baked, ftewed, or preferved wit Sugar, more plentifully nourilh, becaufe much < their Sharpnefs, Waterifhnefs and Rawnefs, thereby corrected. Always remember to eat th fweeteft fort before, and the foureft forts of Plurr after Meat, left unorderly eating caufe that to t blamed, which was good and wholefome in h due Place. ^ Here I have Occafton to fpeak of the Pafte c Genoa> made of fragrant and fine ripe Plums; whic no doubt is not only cordial, but alfo reftorativ to fuch Stomachs as through Extremities of Ague have loft their Strength. Mala Punica. Pomegranates,when they are fweetand t’norougl ripe, ^loofen Phlegm, help the Stomach, Breaf and Cough, increafe Venery, provoke Urine, loofei the Belly, moiften the fpiritual parts, and give in different ftore of good Nouriftrment: they are bef in Winter for old Men and phlegmatic Conftitu tions. Sour Pomegranates hurt a cold Stomach ftraiten the breaft, hinder Expectoration, ftop th< Liver, offend both Teeth and Gums, cool excef- fively, ftay all humoral Fluxes, yet provoke Urin< moft plentifully; and therefore they are more pre- feribed in Agues than the fweet ones, as alfo tc choleric young Men fubjeft to Scourings. Paulu. JEgineta affirmeth four Pomegranates to bind onljj found Mens Bodies, but not fuch as be fick. How- foe ver it is, lince the one’s Goodncfs refifteth the other’s \ ~ jf | I II Of F R U I T S. 3 0 9 ither’s Hurtfulnefs, it is beft to mingle both their fuices for fuch as be aguifh or weak, and feveral- y to ufe them for the ftrong, according as Occa- ion ferveth. Mala Cotonea & Cydonia. Quinces are of two forts; an Apple-Quince, :alled Malum Cotoneum ; and a Pear-Quince, ailed of Diofcor ides , Struthium : both of them, rere firft brought from Cydon, a Caftle in Candy^ thereupon they are commonly called Mala Cydo- ia ; we account moft of the latter fort, but the otton and downy Quince made like an Apple, is 10ft commended of the Grecian and Latin Wri- ers. Of either of them chufe the moft clear, ranfparent, thin-fkin’d, ungravelly, downy, beft nelling, and moft furrowed as it were with long treaks, for the very Scent of fuch is comfortable; nd tho’ their raw Flefti be as hard as raw Beef nto v/eak Stomachs, yet being roafted or baked, r made into Marmalade, or cunningly preferved, ley give a wholefome and good Nourilhment, and lake the Body foluble being eaten laft at Meat ; ir if you eat them firft, they cling the Stomach, aufe exceeding Coftivenefs, and hinder Digeftion, s Galen fufficiently tried in Protas the Orator, "hey are cold in the firft Degree, and dry almoft 1 the fecond ; agreeing with all Ages, Times, nd Complexions, where juft Occafion is given 1 ufe them. Uva Pajfce. Raifins are of the fame Temperature with the »rapes which they are made of, being alfo as di- ers in Tafte, Subftance and Quality, as they be. "hat Noah was the firft Planter of Vines, Chri- ftians gio Health’.*' Improvement. itians know better out of the Bible than any Po( or Heathen Writer could ever aim at; but wl firft devifed the drying of Raifins in the Sun, < the preffing them into Frails, is neither fet dow by Pliny, nor any other Author that I have rear Only this I find by Reafon and Experience, th the greateft, fatteft, fvveeteft, longeft and blewe Raifins of the Sun are ever belt; nourifhing fu' ficiently, moderately cleanfing, very well temp rating ill Humours, mitigating all Pains, and ir gendering very pure and good Blood ; yea, tf African Phyficians that lived in Galen’s time di with one Voice and Confent, proteft thus mut of them, that for opening the Breaft, Stomat and Lungs; for cleanfing the Blood, Kidneys at Bladder ; for ceafing all Pains of the Guts, ar moderate Nourifhment, no Fruit is to be con' pared unto Raifins. Matthiolus , in his Commei taries upon Diofcorides , faith, that Raifins of tl Sun being either voided of their Kernels, or grov ing without Kernels, loofen the Belly, help Hoarf nefs, and both nourifh and cleanfe the Liver: cor, trariwife, being eaten with the Stones or Kernel they work rather a contrary Operation. Th; Grapes nourifh much, we may fee, faith Gale> by V intage-labourers, who come lean to the Vint yard, but return as fat as Hogs. Much more d Raifins of the Sun and other Raifins nourifh oi Bodies, and are therefore to be accounted for i bad Meats. Pyra 'Volema Plinii, Wardens or Palm-Pears, fo called, becaufe o cf them will fill the Palm of a Hand, were fi brought into Credit by Livia Pompeia ; they very hurtful, and almofl indigeftable, being ea; 2 ra' * 1 Of F R u I T S. 3II w or green; but towards Winter they are very holefome for a weak Stomach, being ftew’d, d, or roafted, and to be preferred for Nou- nment before all Fruit; ingendering, efpecial- when they are fweet and red, molt wholefome nee; ftrengthening Conco&ion, repelling Va« urs from the Head, and comforting the weak d decayed Spirits: would to God every Hedo- e ;re as full of them as they are of wild Pears and abs, that both Poor and Rich might have a mpetent Nourifhment when Fifh and Flefh can rdly be gotten. JUGLANDFS. Walnuts, or Jupiter’s Acorns, for fo the Greeks 1 Latins called them, are fufficiently nourifh- : whilft they are green, but when they once x fo dry that they hardly peel, they are more dicinal than nourifhing: either of them in^en- the Cough, and caule Head-achs; but if you 1 new Walnuts, and wafli them in Wine and :, they are lead: offenfive to the Stomach, and more nourifhing, if you eat them with Sugar. I Walnuts are hot in the third Degree, and'dry he fecond ; new Walnuts are moft temperate ach refpeft, agreeing with old Men and phleg- ic Perfons, being eaten at the end of the Fall, the beginning of Winter. CHAP, 3 12 Health’.? Improvement. CHAP. XXIII. Of fuch Fruits of the Garden as are nourifhing. A Rtichokes grew fometimes only in the Ille Sicily ; and fince my remembrance, th were fo dainty in England\ that ufually they w< fold for Crowns a-piece: Now Induftry and SI hath made them fo common, that the poor Man is poffefled of Princes Dainties. Julius l pitolinus , in the Life of Pertinax , and Pliny lil wife, in the 19th Book of his Natural Hifto;| reports Artichokes to have been of fuch Elfin! tion in Carthage and Corduba , that there wi fold as many Artichokes in one Year, as came 6000 Sefterties, which maketh 30,000 /. SterlLi The firft Sprouts of Artichoke-leaves being foddi in good Broth with Butter, do not only nouri hut alfo mightily ftir up Lull: of the Body both Men and Women; the young Heads of th< eaten raw with Pepper and Salt do the like ; 1 the great Heads being once come to Perfe&ic howfoever they are counted windy and hard Digeftion, fuming up to the Head, and burde fome to the Stomach ; yet certain it is that th are of great Nourifhment being well prepan Some boil them in fat powder'd Beef-broth j they be te_nder, and then eat them with Vinegj Pepper, Sugar, Butter and Salt. Others hava par boiled them a little, take the pulpy Part ini Bottom, and with fweet Marrow, Verjuk Pepj)f| Of FRUITS. J, 3 Pepper, Sugar and Goofeberries, make nioft ex¬ cellent and reftorative Pies. The Italians broil them on a Gridiron fetting their Bottoms down¬ ward, and pouring on a little Tweet Oil upon every Leaf as foon as they open with the Heat and as that foaks in they put in a little more; for if much fhould be poured in at once, they would fmell of the Smoke, by reafon that the Oil would drop into the Fire. This way the Artichoke is lealt windy, and (if it be eaten with Sugar, But- ter, and the Juice of an Orange) moil pleafant iilcewife. they are hot in two Degrees, and dry in one, and therefore fitteft for cold, aged Per- fons and Complexions. Remember that raw Arti¬ chokes are to be eaten towards the end of Meals but the other at the beginning or in the midft. * asparagus. Afparagus was in old time a Meat for fuch Em¬ perors as Julius Cafar'y now every Board is ferved with them. They mu ft be prefently gathered when their Heads bow downwards j and being fodden in two or three Waters, to rid them of Bitternefs, they are to be boiled in Mutton-broth ill they be tender, which is done in a trice. The create ft and tendereft ftalk’d are ever beft and ew or no kind of Herbs nourilh more, being polled of their Bitternefs and eaten hot. Galen lOubteth of their active Quality, but yet Expe- lence iheweth them to be temperately moift and ot to exceed in Heat the hrft Degiee. I B all ock’s-grafs, or Satyrium (whereof there be ve principal kinds) is only nourifhing in the i ’ heav 7 antl fappy Root j for the otner is of ean contrary Dilpolition. Some eat them being ° boil’d' 314 Health’j Improvement. boil’d in Goats Milk and Sugar. Others candy or keep them in Syrup; any way they increafe bodily Lull, {Lengthen the Liver, help the Parts of Conception, reftore them which are confirmed, and give plentiful Nourifhment in he£tic f evers. MORA RUB I. Bramble-berries or Black-berries, be they of the greater or the lefs kind, are temperately warm, and Sufficiently nourifhing to a weak Stomach. How the Poor live upon them, daily Experience fheweth; yet being much eaten they bind the Body, and ingender fuch putrefied Humors as be¬ set both Scabs and Lice. BORRAGO. BUGLOSSA. SIRSIUM. Borrage, Buglofs and Langdebeif, aie of fo great a Temperature in all Qualities, that they are not only commended for fpecial Cordials being fteept in Wine, or made into Conferves; butalfo their Flowers, Herbs and Roots, are efteemed re- ftorative, nourifhing weak Bodies fuf&ciently, and {Lengthening the Parts of Nourifhment more than meanly, being fodden in Broths, Cullifes, or Gellies. PERSON ATAE RADIX. f Bur-Roots, (I mean of the Clot-bur) whilfl they are young and tender, in the Month of April, are very wholefome and nourifhing, being eaten like a young green Artichoke with Pepper and Salt. The Frenchmen and Italians fir ft found them out; fince which time they are common nmongft us, through the means of them whici have travelled into ftrange Countries. BRAS* BRASSICjE. Coleworts be of divers forts, but,the moft nou- rifiiing of all is your white-leafed Cabbage (as big as a great Loaf) called Brajfica Tritiana, and that which the Italians calleth Cauli fores; fo beloved of Pompey, that it was termed Brajfica Pompeia- na. Either of them muft firft gently be fodden in fair Water, then again fteept all Night in warm Milk ; afterwards feethe them with fat Marrow, or in fat Broths, and they are very nourifhing without Offence. Otherwife all Coleworts in¬ gender grofs and melancholic Blood. Chufe ever the whiteft and tendered: leafed, for they are of the fineft and beft Nourifhment. The Egyptians oat Cabbage firft to prevent Drunkennefs. DAUCI HORTENSES. Carrot-Roots are very temperate in Heat and Drynefs, of an aromatical and fpice-like Tafie, warming the inward Parts, and giving great Nou- rifhment to indifferent Stomachs, being fodden in fat and flefhy Broth, or elfe butter’d. The yel¬ lower the Root, the more fweet, tender, and aro- rtiatical is the Carrot; and the beft grow in a black, foft and ripe, tho’ not in a forced Earth. ANGURLE CITRULI. Citruls, (fo much beloved of Tiberius the Em- jeror) are of like Temperature with Melons and ’ompions, (of which hereafter) nourifhing hot Stomachs very well, being boiled with good Elefti >r fweet Milk. ^ CUCUMERES. MELOPEPONES. Cucumbers growing in hot Grounds and well ipened with the Sun, are neither moift nor cold 0 2 in 316 Health’* Improvement. in the fecond Degree. They agree well with hot Stomachs, being eaten with Vinegar, Salt, Oil, 2nd Pepper} but if you boil them, whilft they are young, with white V/dne, Vervain, Dill, and fait Liquor, they are not of a bad Nourifh- ment, as Galen took them, but ingender good Humors, and fettle a very cold and weak Stomach, as by much Praaice and long Experience I have proved in divers Perfons. SOLENOPRASA. Cives or Rufh-leeks be almoft as hot as Leeks themfelves. Some eat them raw in Salads, but then they nourifh not. If you boil them twice or thrice in Water, they lofe their over-hot and dry¬ ing Nature, and give no bad Nourifhment to cold Stomachs. - . Glandes Terrejlres Dodonan. Earth-nuts grow much on Richmond Heath and Come Park, as alfo beftde Bath , as you travel to BriJloU They are belt in May. In Holland anc Brabant they are eaten, as the Roots of Turneps and Parfneps, boil’d in Flefh-Broth, which cor- reð their binding Quality, and maketh them of good and wholefome Nourifhment. BULBOCASTANEA. Earth-chefnuts are far bigger than Earth-nuts and the Flowers of them are white where th< others be red. About Bath there is great plenty of them, and they are of like Nourifhment anc Ufe with the Earth-nuts. Intubum fativum Latifolium. Endive, efpecially that which hath thelongeft largcft, fofteft, and whiteft Leaves, is of gool Of F R U I T Si 317 Nourifhment to hot Stomachs, not only cooling but alfo increafing Blood, if it be fodden in white Broth till it be tender j but if you eat it raw in Salads, as it is moft commonly ufed, then it only cooleth and lieth heavy in the Stomach, becaufe it is not freed from its Crudities. VACINI A PALUSTRIA. Fen-berries grow not only in Holland in low and moift Places, but alfo, if I have not forgotten it, in the Ifle of Ely. They are of like Temper and Faculty with our Whortles, but fomewhat more aftringent. Being eaten raw or ftued with Sugar, they are wholefome Meat in hot burning fevers, unto which either fluxes of Humors or /pending of Spirits are annexed. Likewiie they quench Thirft no lefs than Ribes, and the red or outlandifh Goofeberry. MORA RUBI IDtEI. Trambois, or Rafps, are of Complexion like the Blackberry and Dewberry, but not of fo aftringent nor drying Quality. Furthermore they are more fragrant to the Nofe, and more pleafant in Tafte, and of far better Nourifhment to hot Stomachs, for cold Stomachs cannot convert them into any good Juice. ALLIUM. Garlic was fo odious or hurtful to Horace , that le makes it more venomous than Hemlocks, Ad¬ lers Blood, Medea’s Cups, yea, than the Poifon Nejfus the Centaur which killed Hercules . Con¬ trariwise the Tb a clans eat it every Morning to Ireakfaft, and carry it with them in Warfare as heir chiefeft Meat. Whereat we need not mar- O 1 vel* 318 Health’j Improvement. vel, confidering the Coldneft of their Country, and their phlegmatic Conftitution. Let us rather wonder at the Spaniard, who cats it more, being a hot Nation, than our labouring Men do here in England. Whereby we may fee how Prepara¬ tion begetteth in every thing another Nature for Thracians eat it raw becaufe of their extreme Coldnefs; but the Spaniard fodden firft in many Waters, or elfe roafted under the Embers in a wet Paper, whereby it is made fweet and pleafant, and hath loft more than half of his Heat and Dry- j nefs. Thus is Garlic Medicine and Meat j Me¬ dicine if it be eaten raw', but Meat and Nourifh- ment, being roafted under the Embers, or ftickt like Lard in fat Meat, or boil’d in many Waters, Broths, or Milks. By which way alfo his fuming and diuretical Quality is much corre&ed. Yet beware left you eat too much of it, left it ingen¬ der little Worms in your Flefh, as it did in Ar- nulpkus the Emperor, whereof he died ; It is very dangerous to young Children, fine Women, and hot young. Men ; unlcfs the heady, hot and bit¬ ing Quality thereof be extinguished by the afore- laid Means. CUCURBIT JE. Gourds eaten raw and unprepared, are a very unwholefome food, as Galen faith, exceedingly cooling, charging, and loading the Stomach, and ingendering Crudities and Wind; but being boil d, baked, or fry’d with Butter, it lofeth his Hurtful-J nefs, and giveth good Nouriihment to indifferent; Stomachs. The Seed of it being hulked and boiled in new Milk, is counted very reftorative in he&ic F evers. GROS V 9 Of FRUITS. GROSSULE. UVE CRISPS. Goofeberries, being thorough ripe, are as nou¬ rishing as fweet, and of the like Temper, not only increafing Flefh, but alfo fattening the Body. They fhould be eaten firft, and not laft, becaufe they are fo light a P'ruit. When they arealmoft ripe, they are reftorative, being made into Codi- niac, or baked in Tarts. Sour Goofeberries nou¬ rish nothing, ferving rather for Sauce to pleafe ones Taite than to augment Fiefh. GROSSULE TRANSMARINE. Red Goofeberries or Baftard-Corinths, (com¬ monly called Rlbes of Apothecaries, and taken of Dodonaus for the Bears-berry of Galen) is almoft of the like Nature with Goofeberries, but more cold, dry and aftringent, by one Degree, becaufe they never wax fweet in our Country. They are very cordial and cooling in Agues, being eaten either in Conferve, or Oodimac, yea, nourifhin cr alfo to hot Stomachs. LUPULARII ASPARAGI. Hop-fhoots are of the fame Nature with Afpa- 'agus, nourifhing not a little, being prepared in ; he like fort, which is before defcribed, tho’ rather deanfing and fcouring of their own Nature. ALLI AR I A. Jad by the Hedge , as it is not much ufed in Medicines, fo it was heretofore a very ancient and common Meat, being therefore called Sauce alone. Countrymen do boil it and eat it inftead of Gar- ic, being no lefs ftrengthen’d and nourifh’d by it han the Perftan Children were with Town-creffes. allow it not for indifferent Stomachs* unlefs it ^ 4 hath 320 Health’j Improvement. hath been fteeptin divers warm Waters, and then be eaten, as Garlic may be eaten, moderately; for it is hot and dry more than in the third De¬ gree. P O R R A. Leeks are efteemed fo whdefome and nourifh- ing in our Country, that few think any good Pot¬ tage can be made without them. That they in¬ gender Blood no Author denies, but they fay it is grofs, hot, and evil Blood. Neverthelefs if they be firft fodden in Milk, and then ufed in Meat, they are unclothed of all bad Qualities, and be¬ come friendly to the Stomach, and nourifhing to the Liver. The Grecians made fuch reckoning of Leeks as our Welchmen do; yea, he ever fat uppermoft zt Apollo’s Feaft that brought thither the greateft headed Leek. Some impute that to his Mother Latona her longing for Leeks whilft (he was with child of Apollo. Others fay, that Apollo did fo highly efteem them, becaufe they ingendes much Blood and Seed, whereby Mankind is much increafed : which Opinion I like beft, hearing and feeing fuch Fruitfulnefs in Wales , that few 01 none be found barren, and many fruitful before their time. P or rum feflivum Palladii. The unfet Leek, or Maiden-leek, is not fo hot as the knopped ones ; becaufe his fuming Quality is diminifhed by often cutting. LACTUC A. Lettice is not more ufually than profitably eater of us in Summer; yea, Galen did never eat of any other Garden-herb lave this, for ought we read i whereby he delayed the Heat of his Stomach in Youth] O/FRUTTS. 32 t Youth, eating it foremoft, and flept foundly an^ quietly in Age, eating it laft. It is better fodde! 1 than raw, cfpecially tor weak Stomachs ; and ** any will eat it raw, correct it with mingling a little Tarragon and Fennel with it. The young leaf Lettice is fimply beft, but you muft not walh it, for then it lofeth its beft and moft nourifh- ing Virtue that lieth upon the outmoft Skin : only pluck away the Leaves growing near the Ground, till you come to the Cabbage of the Lettice, and it is enough. Long ufe of Lettice caufeth Bar- rennefs, cooleth Luft, dulleth the Eye-fight, weakeneth the Body, and quencheth natural Heat in the Stomach: but moderately and duly taken of hot Natures, it increafeth Blood, Seed, and Milk, ftayeth all Fluxes of Nature, bringeth on Sleep, and cooleth the Heat of Urine. The middle and thickeft part of the Leaf being boiled and preferved in Syrup, as Endive and Succory is done beyond Sea, give a great Nourifhment to weak Perfons newly recovered of hot Agues. The Romans did eat Lettice laft to provoke Sleep : we eat it firft to provoke Appetite. So that Martial' s Queftion is fully anfwered: Claudere qua coenas Laftuce folebat avcrum. Die tnihiy cur nojlras incipit ilia Dapes ? When elder times did feed on Lettice laft. Why is it now the firft Meat that we tafte l MELONES & PEPONES. Melons and Pompions are not fo cold nor moift as Cucumbers. Growing in a hot Ground, and thoroughly ripened with hot and dry Weather, they give much Nourifhment, efpecially being baked with good Flefh or fweet Milk, or baked with fweet Apples, Butter, and Fennel-feed. O 5 MELO- 322 Health’.* Improvement. MELOPEPONES. Mufk-Melons are neither To moift nor cold as the ordinary fort, ingendering far better Blood, and defcending more fpeedily into the Belly. They will hardly profper in our Country, unlefs they are fet in a very fat, hot, and dry Ground, having the Benefit of Sun-fhine all the Year long. Jafon Mainus , a moft famous Civilian, fo loved a Mufk- Melon, that he faid to one of his Friends, ‘Were I in Paradife, as Adam was, and this Fruit for¬ bidden me, verily, I fear, I fhould leave Paradife to tafte of a Mufk-Melon.’ Neverthelefs let not the pleafant Smell or Tafte of them draw any Man to eat too much of them, for they caft Albertus fe- cur.dus the Emperor into a deadly Flux; Sophia Queen of Poland into a numb’d Palfy, and Paulus Secundus the Pope into a mortal Apoplexy. All Melons, Pompions and Cucumbers, are not pre- fently to be eaten out of the Ground, tho’ they be fully ripe, but rather a W eek after, for with De¬ lay they prove lefs moift, and alfo lefs cold. As for our great Garden-Pompions and Melons, they may tarry in a warm Kitchen till towards Chriji- mas before they be eaten, to be more dried from their Waterilhnefs, and freed from Crudities. N A P I. Navews, efpecially Napus Sativus , called in Englift.') Navew Gentle,nourilh fomethinglefs than Turneps, otherwife they are of like Operation. They are beft fodden in pouder’d Beef Broth, or elfe with fat Mutton, or pouder’d Pork. CEP£ Onions are very hot and dry ; neverthelefs be-; ing roafted or boiled in fat Broth or Milk, they becom®' Of F R U I T S. 323 become temperate and nourifhing, leaving their hot and (harp Nature in the Broth or Embers. The Priefts of JEgypt abhorred them of all Herbs ; firft becaufe, contrary to the Courfe of other things, they increafe mod when the Moon de- creafeth. Secondly, becaufe they nourifh too much, and procure Luft, which religious Men of all other Perfons ought to refrain. The greater, whiter, longer, fweeter, thinner-fkin’d, and fuller of Juice they be, (fuch are St. Thomas 's Onions) the more they nourifh and excel in Goodnefs ; but if they be, very red, dry, round, light and fourifh, they are not fo commendable. Raw Onions be like raw Garlic and raw Leeks, (that is to fay, of great Malignity, hurting both Head, Eyes and Stomach, inflaming Blood, and ingendering both grofs and corrupt Humors) but fodden in Milk, and then eaten Sallad-ways with fweetOil, Vinegar and Sugar, as we ufe them in Lent , they are hurtful to no Perfons nor Com¬ plexions. APIUM HORTENSE. Parfley nourifheth moft in the Root; for if you chufe young Roots and fhift them out of two or three warm Waters, they lofe their medicinal Faculty of opening and cleanfing, and become as fweet, yea, almoft as nourifhing as a Carrot, be¬ ing fodden in fat Broth made with good Flelh. The like may I fay of Alexander- buds, which is nothing but the Parfley of Alexandria, being drefs’d or prepar’d in the like manner; otherwife they may be ufed, as Nettles are in Spring-time Pottage to cleanfe Blood ; but they will give no laudable, or rather no Nourifhment at all. 324 Healths Improvement# PORTULACA. Purflane is ufually eaten green in Salads, as Lettice likewife : But being fodden in Wine, it is of good Nourifhment in the Summer-time unto hot Stomachs, which are able to overcome it. RADICES SISARI INDICI. Pottato-roots are now fo common and known amongft us, that even the Hufbandman buys them to pleafe his Wife. They nourilh mightily, be¬ ing either fodden, baked or roafted. The neweft and heavieft be of beft Worth, ingendering much tlelh. Blood and Seed, but withal increafing Wind and Luft. Clufius thinks them to be In¬ dian Skirrets, and verily in Tafte and Operation they refemble them not a little. RADICULA SATIVA. Radiftt-roots of the Garden (for they are beft) are either long and white without, or round like a Turnep, and very black-fkin’d, called the Ita¬ lian Radifti. Moft Men eat them before Meat to procure Appetite, and help Digeftion: But did they know, and yet they feel it, what rank Belch- ings Radifhes make, how hardly they are digeft- ed, how they burn Blood, and ingender Lice, caufe Leannefs, rot the Teeth, weaken Eye-fight, and corrupt the whole Mafs of Nouriftiment, I think they would be more temperate and fparing of them; yet they were fo prized amongft the Grecians , that at Apollo's Feaft when Turneps were ferved in Tin Difties, and Beets in Silver, yet Radifh-j roots wc r e not ferved but in Golden DHhes. Not- < withftanding, fince by Nature they provoke Vo-, miting, how can they be nouriftung ? unlefs it be to fuch ruftical Stomachs as are offended with no¬ thing. Of FRUITS. 325 thing, and to whom rufty Bacon is more agreeable than young and tender Pork. Neverthelefs, fmce only the Heat and Biting of Radilh are the chief- eft Caufe wty it nourifh, little or nothing, as Ga¬ len faith, no doubt if by fteeping in warm Milk, or boiling in fat Broth thofe Qualities be removed* t would prove the lefs medicinal, and more nou- rifhing. RAPI SILVESTRIS RADIX. Rampions, or wild Rapes, of Nature not un¬ like to Turneps, eaten raw with Vinegar and Salt, lo not only ftir up an Appetite to Meat, but alfo ire Meat and Nourilhment of themfelves. In high Germany they are much eaten, and now our Nat¬ ion knows them indifferently well, and begin to ife them. RADIX ALII URSINI. Ramfeys are of the like Power with Garlic, nd are fo to be prepared, or elfe they give net¬ her much nor any good Nourilhment. RAP JE. Rapes or Turneps fodden in fat Broth, or roaft- d with Butter and Sugar put into the midft there- f, nourifh plentifully, being moderately taken ; ir if they be undigefted through Excels, they ftir p Windinefs and many fuperfluous Humors in the : ody. The Bohemians have Ttirneps as red out¬ wardly as Blood, which I did eat of in Prague , ad found them a moft delicate Meat; yea, they 'e counted fo reftorative and dainty, that the mperor himfelf nurfeth them in his Garden, oafted Turneps are fo fweet and delicate, that iav'rn Curias refufed much Geld offered him by 326 Health’^ Improvement. the Samnites , rather than to leave his Turnep ii the Embers. RADICES BRINGII MARINI. Sea-holly-roots are of temperate Heat and Cold but fomewhat of too dry a Nature ; yet prov they rnoift enough to give plentiful Nourilhment after they have been preferved in Syrup, o candy’d with Ginger, increaftng Bloo'd, Seed an Lull, and reftoring fuch as by Lechery have beei much confumed. RADICES SISARI. Slcirret-roots were fo fweet and delicate in an cient times, that Tiberius Ccefar caufed the Inha bitants of Gehluba (a certain Segniory upon th Rhine) to pay him Tribute at Rome in Skirret roots, bringing them weekly thither whilft the were in Seafon. They have a long String or Pit within them, which being taken away before the are thorough fodden, maketh them eat exceedin fweet; ufually they are boil’d till they be tendei and then eaten cold with Vinegar, Oil and Pepper but if they be roafted four or five together in wet Paper under Embers, as one would roaft Pottato, or {train’d into Tart-Stuff, and fo bake with Sugar, Butter and Rofe-water, they ai far more pleafant, and of ftronger Nourilhmen agreeing with all Complexions, Sexes and Age; being alfo of a mild Heat and a temperate Moiftun Did we know all the Strength and Virtues < them, they would be much nourilhed in ourGai dens, and equally efteemed with any Pottato-roo CEPA ASCALONITES. Skallions are a kind of little Onions, brougl fir ft from Afcalon> a Town of Jewry , very he an Of F R U I T S. 327 mnd dry, yea, hotter and dryer by one Degree han any Onions. Cold Stomachs and barren Weaklings may fafely eat them raw, to procure Appetite and Luff; but they are not nourifhing e:o indifferent Stomachs till they have been par¬ boil’d in new Milk. Some corredf -them, by mincing them fmall, and ffeepmg them a good (jvhile in warm Water, afterwards they eat them [with Vinegar, Oil and Salt, after the Italian fafhion. S P I N A C H I A. Spinache being boil’d foft, and then eaten with -Butter, fmall Currans and Sugar, heated together r ipon a Chafing-difh, giveth no bad nor little jVourifhment to dried Bodies, and is only hurtful i.o fuch as be over phlegmatic. FRAGUL£ it Strawberries of the Garden, be they white, red, )r green (but the red are bell) being once come o their full Ripenefs in a warm Summer, and growing in a warm Ground, are to a young hot Itomach both Meat and Medicine; Medicine to :ool his Choler and exceflive Heat; Meat by his emperate and agreeable Moiffure, fit at that time )f the Year to be converted into Blood, efpecial- y being eaten raw with Wine and Sugar, or elfe v nade into Tart-Stuff and fo baked : howfoever hey be prepared, let every Man take heed, by Melchior Duke of Brunfvick y how he eateth too nuch of them, who is recorded to have burft ifunder at Rojjock with furfeiting upon them. Iranz. 1 . 9. c, 9. Hijl. Vandal. RADIX SPIRA ALB IE. Thiffle-roots, ( I mean of the white Thiffle /vhen it firft jfpringeth ) are exceeding reftorative and 32.3 HealthV Improvement. and nourifhing, being fodden in white ftued Broi or elfe baked in Tarts, or in Pies like Artichoke Few Men would think fo good Meat to ly hidde in fo bafe and abjedl an Herb, had not Trial an Cookery found out the Virtue of it. rapt: rotundt. Turneps, in Commendation whereof Mojch the Grecian wrote a large Volume, are nothir but round Rapes, whereof heretofore we writ this Chapter. NASTUREIA AQUATIC A. Water-crefies and Town-creffes nourifh ra and cold Stomachs very well: but for hot or ii different Stomachs they are of a contrary Natur Xenophon faith, that the Perfians Children going School, carry nothing with them to eat and drini but Creffes in the one Hand and Bread in the othe and an earthen Cruife at their Girdle to take i Water in; whereby we may perceive that thi agree well with moift Natures, and fuch as a accuftomed to drink Water ; otherwife no dou they nourifh nothing, but rather over-heat ai burn the Blood. As for Anife, Blifes, Blood-wort, Broom-bud Capers, Calamint, Clary, Dill, Fennel, Gala; gal, Hyffop, Marigolds, Muftard-feed, Min Nettles, Orache, Patience, Primrofes, Rofemar Saffron, Sage, Samphire, Savory, Tamarifk,Tanf Taragon,! hyme, Violets and Wormwood ; hov foever they are ufed fometimes in Broths, Pottag barings, Sauces, Salads and Tanfies ; yetnoNoi rifhment is gotten by them, or at the leaf! fo litt that they need not, nor ought not to be count amongft Nourifhments. C H A 0/ F R U I T S, 3 2 9 CHAP. XXIV. V fuch Fruits of the Field as are nourifhing y TPHE chief Fruits of the Field are Wheat, Rye, Rice, Barley, Oats, Beans, Chiches, Peafe nd Lentils. TRITICUM. ^ Wheat is divided into divers kinds by Pliny , Jolumella, Dodonaus , Pena and Lobelias ; it (hall e fufficient for us to defcribe the forts of this Country, which are efpecially two : The one red, ailed Robus by Columella , and the other very vhite and light, called Siligo> whereof is made ur pureft Manchet. Being made into Furmity, nd fodden with Milk and Sugar, or artificially lade into Bread, Wheat nourifheth exceeding auch and ftrongly : the hardeft, thickett, heavi- ft, cleaneft, brighteft, and growing in a fat Soil, i ever to be chofen ; for fuch Wheat, in Diof- irides and Galen’s Judgment, is mod nourifhing. S E C A L E. Rye feemeth to be nothing but a wild kind of Vheat, meet for Labourers, Servants and Work- len, but heavy of Digeftion to indifferent Sto- lachs. O R I Z A. Rice is a mod ftrong and reftorative Meat,, ifcommendable only in that it is over-binding ; ery wholefome Pottage is made thereof with new 7 Iiik, Sugar, Cinnamon, Mace an.d Nutmegs; whofe - . 330 Health*/ Improvement. whofc Aftringency if any Man fear, let him foak the Rice one Night before in fweet Whey, and afterwards boil* it in new Milk with Sugar, Butter, Cloves and Nutmegs, leaving out Cinnamon and Mace. Thus fhall the Body be nouriflied, Cof- tivenefs prevented, and Nature much ftrengthen’d and increafed. H O R D E U M. Barley ufed any wa,y in Bread, Drink or Broth, is ever cooling, faith Galen , and ingendereth but a thin and Weak Juice. Before we ufe it in Broths or Ptifan, it fhould be clean hull’d, andwalh’d in many Waters. The Deco&ion of Barley in Chicken-broth, ftrain’d with a few blanch’d Al¬ monds, and fweeten’d with Sugar and Rofe-water, is a very convenient Meat for found Men, but more for them which are Tick and abhor Flelh. Carden faith, that Galen maketh mention of a kind of Barley in Greece growing without a Hufk, and hull’d by Nature; which Place he never cit- eth, becaufe he was miftaken; for through all ■ Galen I could never find any fuch thing, tho’ of purpofe I fearch’d for it very diligently. The beft Barley is the biggeft and yelloweft without, and fulleft, clofeft and heavieft within ; it is never to be ufed in Meat till "it be half a Year old, becaufe lying caufeth it to ripen better, and to be alfo far lefs windy. Being made into Malt by a fweet Fire and good Cunning, it is the Foundation of our Englijh Wine, which being as well made as it is at Nottingham , proveth Meat, Drink and Cloth to the poorer fort. Parched Barley or Malt is hot and dry, but otherwife it is tempe- rately cooling and lefs drying. That Wheat and Rye is far more nourifhing than Barley, PlutarcA O/'F RUIT S. 531 vould thence prove, becaufe they arc half a Year onger in the Earth, and of a more thick, fappy, nd firm Subdance. But Rice, being counted and ailed by Tragus German Barley, difarmetb that leafon, which is not fowed till March, and yet ■ of as great or rather of greater Nourilhment. A V E N M. Oats, termed by Galen the AfTes and Horfes rovender, are of the like Nature with Barley, ut more adringent, efpecially being old and lorough dry. Had Galen feen the Oaten Cakes f the North, the Janocksof Lancajkire , and thef »rues of Chejhire , he would have confefled that )ats and Oatmeal are not only Meat for Beads, at alfo for tall, fair and ftrong Men and Women f all Callings and Complexions : But we pardon le Grecian s Delicacy, or elfe aferibe it to the adnefs of their Soil, which could bring forth no >ats fit for Nourifhment. Chufe the larged, ;avied,- fweeted, fulled: and blacked, to make Dur Oat-meal Groats of, for they are lead windy id mod nourifhing. F A B JE. Beans were fird a Field-fruit ; how’foever, to ake them more fappy, they have lately been fet id kept in Gardens. Pythagoras forbad his Selle¬ rs to eat of them, efpecially coming once to be eat and black-tail’d, becaufe they hinder Sleep, id procure Watchfulnefs ; for which Caufe they ere given to Judges as they fat down in Judg¬ ment, or elfe in Sleep caufe fearful and trouble- me Dreams, as you may read in Tullius' s :ond Book of Divination : Wherefore howfo- er Camatherus , Immanuel Commenaus his Secre¬ tary, 332 Health*.* Improvement. tary, ventured for them, or Men now affeft them in thefe Days, affuredly they are a very hurt¬ ful Meat, unlefs they be eaten very young, and fodden in fat Broth, and afterwards, being freed of their Hulk, be eaten in the beginning or midft of Meals, butter’d throughly, and fufficiently fprinkled with grofs Pepper and Salt; then will they nourifh much, and too too much increafe Seed to lufty Wantons. C I C E R E S. Chiches of England are very hard and unwhole- fome ; but in Italy and France there is a kind of red Chich, yielding a fweet, fine and nourifhing Flour; whereof thick Pap or Pottage being made with Sugar, you fhall hardly find any Grain or Pulfe of comparable Nouriftiment, as my moft honourable good Lord, the Lord Willoughby of Erejby , in his moft dangerous Confumption did well teftify. Perhaps this Broth was that, for a Mefs whereof Efau fold his Birthright j for no Pulfe but this maketh a red Pottage. PISA. Peafe are not wholly fo windy as Beans, and alfo of better Nourifhment, becaufe they are lefs abfterfive. French Peafe, Hafty Peafe, and Gray Peafe, be the tendered and fweeteft of all others; for the common Field Peafe or green Peafe are too hard of Digeftion for indifferent Stomachs. Take the youngelt, and feethe them thoroughly, butter them plentifully, and fealon them well with Salt and Pepper, fo will they prove a light Meat, and give convenient Nourifhment in Summer-time. LEN- 333 Of FRUITS. L E N T E S. Lentiles were fo prized in Athenaus 's time, that one wrote a whole Treatife in their Commenda¬ tion ; and Diogenes commended them above all ' Meats to his Scholars, becaufe they have a pecu- i liar Virtue to quicken the Wit. Let us, for Shame, not difcontinue any longer this wholefome Nou- rifhment, but rather ftrive to find out fome Pre¬ paration, whereby they may be reftored to their former or greater Goodnefs. CHAP. XXV. Of the Variety, Excellency , Making , and true Ufe of BREAD. The Dignity and Neceffity of Bread. THREAD is a Food fo neceflary to the Life of Man, that whereas many Meats be loathed naturally of fome Perfons, yet we never faw, read, nor heard of any Man that naturally hated Bread. The Reafons whereof I take to be thefe. Firft, becaufe it is the Staff of Life, without which all other Meats would either quickly putrefy In our Stomachs, or fooner pafs through them than* they fhould, whereupon Crudities, Belly-worms and Fluxes do arife to fuch Children or Perfons as either eat none or too little Bread. Again, neither Flefh, Fruit nor Fifh are good at all Seafons, for all Complexions, for all Times, for all Conftitutions and Ages of Men ; but Bread is never out of Seafon, difagreeing with no Sick- nefs, Age or Complexion, and therefore truly i called 334 Health’j Improvement. called the Companion of Life. No Child fo young but he hath Bread, or the Matter of Bread in his Pap; no Man fo weak but he eats it in his Broth, or fucks it out of his Drink. It neither inflameth the choleric, nor cooleth the phlegma* tic, nor over-moifteneth the fanguine, nor drieth the melancholic. Furthermore it is to be admired, faith Plutarch , that Bread doth of all other things beft nourilh and {Lengthen both Man and Beaft ; infomuch that with a little Bread they are enabled for a whole Day’s Journey, when with twice as much Meat they would have fainted. Wherefore it was not a fmall Threatening, when God faid he would break the Staff of Bread ; without which our Meat giveth no Strength, as I faid before, but either corrupted in the Stomach, or is con¬ verted to llimy Crudities: we may alfo remember, that of all compound Meats it is the firft men¬ tioned in the Scripture, namely, in the third of Qenefis , where God threatened Adam that in the Sweat of his Brows he fhould eat his Bread. A- gain, in the Lord’s Prayer, we alk for all bodily Nouridment in the Name of Bread, became Bread may be juftly called the Meat of Meats, as without which there is no good nor fubftantial Nourifhment. The Italians have a Proverb, That all Troubles are eafy with Bread, and no Plea jure pleafant without Bread. Signifying thereby 'our Lives to confift more in Bread than in any other Meat whatfoever. .jf To conclude, when Chrift would defcribe him* . ft If unto us whilft he lived, and leave a Memorial , unto us of himfelf after Death ; hisWIfdom found no hieroglyphical Character wherein better to air ^ prefs himfelf (the only Nourifher and Feeder o. all 1 I Of BREAD. 335 all Mankind) than by the fight, taking, and eating of Bread; fo that I may boldly prefer it above all Nourifhment, being duly and rightly ufed, [as agreeing with all Times, Ages and Conftitu- [tions of Men, either Tick or found ; which can- hot be verified of any one Nouriflament befides. Upon which and fome other things arofe thefe ^uefiions and Sayings, Whether eating of Crufts pf Bread, and Sinews of Flefh, make a Man trong? Whether Afhes be Phyfic, and mouldy dread clear the Eye-fight ? Money and Bread lever brought Plague. Bread and Cheefe be the wo Targets againft Death. The Authors and Inventors of Bread. Who was the firft Author or Inventor of making tread, I will not take upon me to determine. ^liny afcribeth it to Ceres ; who feeing what Hurt ame to Men by eating of Acorns, devifed a Means ow to pound Corn into Meal, and then to work, >rm and bake it into Loaves and Cakes. Paufa- Ius afcribeth it to Areas, Jupiter and Cali/to*s on. But without all queftion Adam knew it firft, 'hofoever was the firft that made it; yea, fince is the Strengthener of Life, no doubt as he and is Son knew how to fow Corn, lo they were not ;norant or unpraaifed in the chief Ufe thereof. The Differences of Bread. Concerning the Differences of Bread, fome are ken from the Meats we eat; for the Romans had me?n oftrearium, which they only did eat with 'yfters. They had alio their dainty Bread made ith Honey, Spice and Flour; they had alfo a tfty Cake, called panis fpeuticus , learned firft in reece-, likewife their Bread differed in bakine, o' fome Health’j Improvement. fome being baked upon the Hearth, others broil’d it upon Gridirons, others fried it like Pan-cakes, others baked it in Ovens, others feeth’d it in Seam like Fritters, others boil’d it in Water like Cim- nels, being called Panes aquatici j which the Par - tbians taught them. But the chief Differences are in the Variety of Matter whereof they conlift, and the Variety of Goodnefs, which I will declare in Order. Some Countries, where Corn was either never fown at all, or being fowed cannot profper, make Breac of fuch things made into Meal as their Soil yield- eth. The Orita , Greenlanders and North Ice landers make it of dried Filh, which being thorougl dried in the Sun, they beat it firft with Hammers then pound it with Peftils, and form Cakes with Water, which they toaft at their Fires, made only of great Fifhes Bones, for they have no Wood and eat it inftead of Bread; yet live they well, an< look well, and enjoy Pleasures, faith Hettor Boe thius in his Scottijb Hiftory, abounding in Children Strength and Contentment, tho’ not in Wealth The Brafilians make Bread of the Root of a Herl refembling Purcelane, and of the Barks of Trees as Oforius writeth, whom I may believe, becauft I have eaten of the fame Bread, brought home b) Sir Francis Drake. The moft part of Egyptian . make Bread of Lotus-feed, refembling Poppy; but they which dwell by the River AJlupas mad< it of dried Roots beaten to Pouder, which they form¬ ed like a Tile-ftone, and baked it hard in the Sun. Like Bread made the Thracians of Tribulus or Wa- ternut Roots, and the Arabians of Dates. But the beft is made of Grain, which the Romans , for boo Years after their City was built, had not yet learn¬ ed ; and was not afterwards publickly pra&ifed b) Bakers Of BREAD. 337 Bakers, till the Perfean Wars. As for Wheaten Bread, it was fo rare in Ccefar’s time, that none knew how to make it,fave his own Baker. And again white Manchet was fo hard to come by in the Grecian Courts, that Lucian protefted a Man could never get enough of it, no not in his Dream. Spiced Bread was more ancient, for Diogenes loved it above all Meats, and Hippocrates and Plato make mention of it. Brown-bread was ufed in Philoxenus's Age, and long before; who having eaten up all the White-bread at the Sophift’s Tablet one fet him a great Brown Loaf on the Table, on whom he bellowed this Jeft ; Ho la ! not too much , not too much , good Fellow , lejl it be Night too foon. Thus much of the ancient making of Bread : Now let us confider. The ufeful Matter of Bread. Firfi , Whereof Bread is made in our Days. Secondly , How it is made. Thirdly , When, and in what Order. Fourthly , In what Quantity it is to be eaten. Touching the firft, Bread is ufually made of Rye, Barley, Oats, Miflelin, or pure Wheat. Rye-bread is cold and of hard Conco&ion, breed¬ ing Wind and Gripings in the Belly, ingendering grofs Humours, being as unwholefome for indit- ierent Stomachs, as it agreeth with Itrong Bodies and laborious Perfons j yet openeth it, and cureth the Haemorrhoids. Barley Bread is little or nothing better, being tough and heavy of Digeftion, choaking the fmall Veins, ingendering Crudities, and Huffing the Sto¬ mach. ' , Oaten Bread is very light being well made, more fcouring than nourilhing if the Oat-meal be new, and tpo much binding if it be old. Howbeit Oats 338 Health’.? Improvement. in Greece are recorded to be fo temperate, that they neither ftir nor flay the Belly. Miflin or Munkcorn Bread, made of Rye and Wheat together, is efteem’d better or worfe, ac¬ cordingly as it is mingled more with this or that Grain. But of all other,Wheaten Bread is generally the beft for all Stomachs;(yet of too flopping a Nature,. if it be too fine) becaufe it is of beft Temper, and agreeth with all Natures and Complexions. _ , things to be obferued in the well making of Bread. Concerning the well making whereof, we muft have great Choice and Care; i. Of the Wheat itfelf. 2. Of the Meal. 3. Of the Water. 4. Of the Salt. 5. Of the Leaven. 6. Of the Dough or Pafte. 7. Of the Moulding. 8. Of the Oven. 9. Of the baking. All which Cir- cumftances I moft willingly profecute to the full, becaufe as Bread is the beft Nourifhment of all other, being well made, fo is it fimply the worft, being marred in the ill handling. 1. Concerning the Wheat, it muft be thorough ripe e’er it is gathered, two Months old e’er it be threfhed, and a Month or two old after that, at the leaft, e’er it be grinded. Chufe ever the yellowed without, and fmootheft, growing in a hot and fat Soil, hard, white and full within, clean threfh’d and winnow’d, then clean wafh’d and dry’d, afterwards grofly grinded (for that makes the beft Flour) in a Mill wherein the Grind-ftones are of French Marble or fome other clofe or hard Stone. 2. The Meal muft neither befo finely grinded, as I faid, left the Bran mingle with it, nor too grgfiy, left you lofe much Flour, but moderately 53 ' grofs, Of B R E A D. 339 grofs, that the Bran may be eafily feparated, and the fine Flour not hardly boulted. You mult not prefently mould up your Meal after grinding, left it prove too hot; nor keep it too long, left it prove fufty and breed Worms, or be otherwife tainted with long lying. . Likewife tho’ the beft Manchet, called pants Similagineus, of Pliny, be made of the fineft Flour pafled through a very fine Boulter, yet that Bread which is “made of coarfer Meal,is of lighter Digeftion and of ftrono-er Nourifhment. & 3 * The Water muft be pure, from a clear River or Spring; not too hot left the Dough cling, nor too cold left it crumble, but lukewarm. 4. The Salt muft be very white, finely beaten, not too much nor too little, but to give an in¬ different feafoning. 5. The Leaven muft be made of pure Wheat, it muft not be too old left it prove too four, nor too new left it work to no purpofe, nor too much in Quantity, left the Bread receive not a dio-eft- ing but a fretting Quality.. Where by the “way note, that Loaves made of pure Wheaten Meal require both more Leaven and more labouring and more baking than either coarfe Cheat, or than Bread mingled of Meal and Grudgins. In England our fineft Manchet is made without Leaven which maketh Cheat-Bread to be the lighter of both, and alfo the'more wholefome; for unleaven¬ ed Bread is good for no Man. 6. The Dough of white Bread muft be throu