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'! I < < « . " . -A ^ >^ U -^ 'A W V ^ ■ - ■',>*•'» -»*.T?>''»-,fJ»W- ^^mm' { Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2009 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://www.archive.org/details/antiquitiesofkerOOmcph ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH AND RESEARCHES IN THE CIMMERIAN BOSPHORUS. l^aiBroSIiflffC; •- Smith,Eld.er fc C 87 » 88 )> 89 1) 101 « 102 7 103 )» 106 )) 107 MAP I. — Ancient Greek Colonies on the Coast of the Propontis, Euxine, and Palus Maeotis ......... „ n. — Cimmerian Bosphorus and Peninsula of Phanagoria, showing the site of the City of Panticapaeum, the scene of the Author's Explorations 31 Wioo& (gitDniuiiifjs in Wt%t Panticapffium Griffin ...... Bas-relief— Sepulchral Tablet, Funereal Ceremony, Armed Guards Bas-relief— Figure on Horseback armed with Scythian Bow Bas-reliefs — Figures of Tritons Fragment of Greek Moulding . Marble Figures of Lion and Lioness Handle of Bronze Hydria Interior Construction of Tomb in the Golden Mountain Venomous Insects .... Inscription on the Conduit Tile Symbols . . . . • Unglazed Vase mth four Handles Inscriptions found on large Tiles Two lion-headed figures, painted on the Vestibule of the Temple Two figures of Horsemen painted on the Walls of the Temple Section of the Tunnel formed from the Temple leading to a remarkable Sepulchre Section of a Varangian Tomb in calcareous clay Stone Tomb, amphora; on each side, containing Skeletons of Infants Colthrop made from Human Radius Bronze Circlet found on a Female Skull Armlet ..... Figure in clay resembling somewhat Emblems of Burial found : Egyptian Figure .... Group of Gems . . • . Female Head in baked clay . Figure of Youth in baked clay Group of Conical Weights in baked clay Coin of the Reign of Mthridates in Egyptian Tombs PAGE (Vignette Title) . 48 . 49 . 50 . 51 . 51 . 59 . 61 . 68 . 72 . 73 . 73 . 75 . 76 . 76 . 81 . 87 . 93 . 101 . 101 . 101 . 102 . 102 . 102 . 102 . 102 . 103 . 106 PEEFACE. A SHORT sketch of the circumstances under which I was enabled to prosecute the investigations of which the results are here recorded, may be acceptable to my readers. In the beginning of the year 1855, Her Majesty's Government resolved to raise foreign legions to aid in the struggle then going on with Russia. By a convention entered into with the Sublime Porte, the Sultan agreed to transfer for this purpose 20,000 men of his army to be officered and equipped in all respects similar to Her Majesty's regular troops. This force was afterwards augmented by the addition of 5,000 Osraanli horse (Bashi Bazouks) and 5,000 Cossacks of the Sultan (Polish Legion). Military officers from Her Majesty's and the Honourable East India Company's army were selected for this duty; but there being no body of military medical men available for this service, it was resolved to resort to the civil branch of the profession, and to place at the head of these, an officer of standing and known experience. I was honoured by the IMinister for War with this responsible appointment, and received his Lordship's commands to form a Medical Staff, and provide stores of every description to enable the force to enter on active operations without delay. Having completed my arrangements Xii PREFACE. I joined the Army of the East within two months from the date of my instructions. There is perhaps no other instance on record, where so large a civil medical staff were employed on strictly military duty. When young officers join an army, there are records to direct and skilled hands to teach them their duties. But in the present instance both were wanting. It necessarily rested with myself, therefore, to introduce a well ordered system, which is so requisite to secure success in all railitarj- operations in the field ; our difficulties being increased by having to deal with a people of whose language and customs we were at first totally ignorant. The Researches here recorded could only be prosecuted during the scantv leisure afforded from more important and urgent avocations ; and they will therefore, I hope, be received vnth. indulgence. I have divided the work into three parts. The first comprises all we know of Grecian colonization in the Crimea and the coasts of the Sea of Azoff and the Euxine. The second embraces a detailed account of my researches. The third comprises some illustrations of the ethnological and physical characteristics of the Crimea, in relation to subjects hitherto imperfectly noticed. The account of the primeval inhabitants of that land, which will be hereafter inseparably associated not only with England, but with all other countries who took part in the recent great struggle, is full of the deepest interest. My aim has been to bring together a compendium of facts gleaned from the best authors, comprising all that is known of that remote PREFACE. Xm ^ period ; such information being scattered over a field not readily accessible to the general reader. For the sake of perspicuity, I have purposely omitted to acknowledge in the body of the work, in every case, the assistance I have received ; but I trust it will not for a moment be supposed that I desire unfairly to appropriate the labours of others. I have derived much assistance from the following works : — Seymour's Russia and the Black Sea; Guthrie's and Clarke's Travels ; Appian's Ancient History, and his Mithridatic War ; Clinton's Fasti HeUenici and Kings of Pontus ; Dubois de Montpereux, Voyage autour du Caucase ; Les Antiquites Cimmeriennes, published in Russian and French ; Les Souvenirs de Kertch, par M. Sabatier ; Eichwald, Alte Geographic des Siidlichen Russlands ; Bockh, Einleitung zu den Inscriptiones Sarmatise. In prosecuting my researches I was peculiarly indebted to Major Crease, who commanded the Engineers of the force. This officer and Mr. Vaughan, Deputy Inspector- General of Hospitals, gave their ready and able assistance throughout; as did also others of the Medical Staff, without whose aid, indeed, I should have been unable, from the pressure of my official duties, to have prosecuted the work. I have to acknowledge, with my best thanks, the assistance received in preparing this volume from Mr. Albert Way, Secretary of the Archaeological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland; and for the XIV PREFACE. valuable suggestions of Mr. Hawkins, Mr. Vaux, Mr. Birch, and Mr. Franks, of the British Museum. The value of a work on antiquities depends much on its pictorial illustrations ; for it is evident that descriptions of the objects without engravings would be very vague and unsatisfactory. 1 have therefore given accurate representations of specimens of the various vestiges of ancient art discovered. By comparing them with others, they tell, as it were, their own story, and throw much light upon the ancient history of this country hitherto almost unknown. The maps and illustrations have been drawn expressly for the work ; the former by Mr. Saunders, of the Royal Geogi-aphical Society ; the latter are due to the skilful pencil of Mr. Kell, a young and deserving artist. I am indebted to Messrs. Colnaghi for the View of Kertch in the Embellished Title-page. The collection of relics of antique art, the result of my labours, is now in the British Museum, and has been examined with much satisfaction by archseologists. The short description of my researches read before the Annual Meeting of the Archaeological Institute in Edinburgh, and at that of the British Association at Cheltenham, excited much interest ; and I am induced to hope that this more complete and carefully compiled narrative may not be unacceptable to the general public. PART I GRECIAN COLONIZATION IN THE CRIMEA AND ADJOINING COASTS. ANTIQUITIES OF KEETCH, 4-c., 4-c. CHAPTEE I. REMOTE ANTIQUITY OF THE CRIMEA— ITS ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS— THE SCENES OF CLASSIC FABLES. Before entering upon a description of my researches, I must beg the reader to go back with me to those remote times when the country, lately the scene of my explorations, was first raised from a state of savage barbarity, to wealth, elegance, and grandeur. The Crimea was denominated by the ancients the Chersonesus Taurica. The Chersonesus Heraclea was that portion of the peninsula which is insulated by the angle formed by the Gulf of Sebastopol and the port of Balaklava; the boundary of the kingdom of the Cimmerian Bosphorus being that narrow neck of land between Theodosia and Arabat. There are few spots so replete with interest as this, the regal abode of the former classic rulers of a country, the ruins of whose cities will always be regarded with interest by the historian and archaeologist. A barbarous policy had closed for centuries this region, so famed in Greek and Roman story. In fact, the very existence of this most interesting country had all but passed into oblivion, until the recent rupture with Russia; when, after a comparative repose of two thousand years, it was again destined to be the scene of blood and strife. The late war was a conflict equal in severity to that waged under ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. Diophantes, the able and expert general of Mithridates, on exactly the same spot, and elicited as vigorous a resistance and as able a defence as was then experienced from Scilurus, the ruling t}Tant of the little peninsula of Heraclea. The memory of this country thus revived by the collision of the three great European nations, will now pass dowTi to a remote posterity. But the laborious researches of the archaeologist are necessary to enable us to obtain confirmation of its former history; and evidence, in the shape of medals, inscriptions, and vestiges of ancient art, are requisite to accredit even an imperfect historical account of its former inhabitants. The Crimean peninsula derives its modern name from the famous Tartar city of Eski Krim, near Theodosia: now a ruin. The greatest breadth of the Crimea from east to west is two hundred miles, and from north to south one hundred and twenty-five. It covers an area of ten thousand and five hundred square miles ; and prior to the war, its population numbered two hundred thousand inhabitants. A chain of mountains runs from east to west along the southern coast. The highest — " Tent ISIountain " — being four thousand eight hundred feet above the level of the sea. The river Salghir, to the north of Simpheropol, empties itself into the Sea of AzofF ; the rivers on the western side are, the " Bulganak," the "Alma," the "Katcha," and the "Belbeck." Homer records that a race denominated Cimmerians, or Cimbrii, who descended from the Steppes of Southern Russia, originally dwelt in this locality. They are described as men of large stature and fair complexion, with flaxen or red hair. They were expelled by the Tauri ; a tribe who occupied the Carpathian Mountains and European Sarmatia: a country to the north and east of the Sea of AzotF. After their expulsion they became bold, adventurous wanderers, and were noted for their piracies; devastating for a number of years the highly civilized ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS OF THE CRIMEA. countries of Asia Minor. Afterwards, proceeding towards the west, they appeared under the name of Celts and Gauls, and founded a colony in Jutland, the Cirabrica Chersonesus. From thence they spread like locusts over France and Great Britain, and formed that mighty race which occupied the greater part of Western Europe in ancient times. The Crimea would thus appear to have been the primitive abode of our British ancestors. The Cimmerian Bosphorus takes its name from this people : the word Bosphorus being applied by the Greeks to any channel or strait. The Tauri were a wild and savage tribe, who abode in crypts hewn out of the solid rock ; and their curious dwelKngs are still found in many parts of the country. They made feasts and offerings of human victims, whose skulls they converted into drinking-cups. The peninsula has been called after them, the Chersonesus Taurica ; the former word signifying in Greek, " land," " island " or peninsula. As our knowledge of the globe has increased, the statements of Herodotus have been more and more confirmed. He tells us that the Scythians conquered the Tauri, and became the Tauro- Scythians ; that they dwelt originally on the eastern side of the Caspian Sea; whence migrating westward, they arrived in the neighbourhood of the Palus Mseotis, and expelled the several tribes from their possessions. This event took place one thousand years before the time of Darius, or fifteen centuries before the Christian era. The Tauro-Scythians did not appear to the discriminating Greek historian a barbarous race; on the contrary, he commends them as an upright and civihzed nation. The description given by Hippocrates of their physical peculiarities, leaves little doubt that they are the ancestors of the present race of Tartars who inhabit the countiy ; and that they were a part of the great Mogul tribes, who have wandered from unknown antiquity over the steppes of Central Asia. Mr. Danby Seymour has clearly established that the Crimea and 4 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. the coasts of the Euxine were the theatre of the wanderings and exploits of Ulysses. Homer's account of the Cyclops " who, relying on the gods for sustenance, neither sow nor reap ; who live in caves in the mountains ; who care not for one another ; and who are ignorant of the use of ships," is a true picture of the rudest condition of savage life, and drawn with too much fidelity to allow us to suppose it to be a mere sketch of fancy. Some learned scholars have fixed on the promontory of Circsei, once nearly insulated by the Pontine marshes, as the isle of the njTnph Circe ; thus inadvertently bringing Cimmeria and its " perpetual darkness" into the sunny clime of Italy. It is impossible to give a truer or clearer picture of Balaklava than that which was drawn by the father of poetry nearly three thousand years ago : — " Within a long recess a bay there lies Edged roxmd with cliffs, high pointing to the skies. The jutting shores, that swell on either side, Contract its mouth, and break the rushing tide. Our eager sailors seize the fair retreat, And bound within the port their crowded fleet ; And here retired the sinking biUows sleep, And smiling calmness silvered o'er the deep. I only in the bay refused to moor. And fixed without my hawsers to the shore ; From thence we climbed a point, whose airy brow Commands the prospect of the plains below ; No tracks of beasts, or signs of man, we found, But smoking volumes rolling from the groimd." Odyssey, B. x., 1. 101. — Pope's Translation. All the ancient poets and historians seem to have chosen the Black Sea for the theatre of the exploits of their heroes, and all their narratives regard it as the point whence cinlization and wealth proceed. THE SCENES OF ULYSSEs' WANDERINGS. 5 After leaving this spot, Ulysses proceeded to the island of Oa, where dwelt Circe, the daughter of the Sun. This was evidently Colchis, or Mingrelia; which may be easily recognised by the broad river, and the vast forests which covered its banks. From Colchis, the enchantress directs Ulysses to steer his course to Pluto's kingdom, and visit the house of Ades, or Death, where the Cocytus and Acheron mingle their waves with the Pyriphlegethon. Crossing the empire of Keptune, our hero reaches a coast of easy access, which to Ulysses appeared to be the end of the world. He is here described as finding one of the entrances to the infernal regions. Both in Taman and at Kertch, exist the springs of black and burning naphtha, which roll their stinking waters like the Cocytus and Acheron ; and there also are the mud volcanoes which belch forth at times fire and water. Then Ulysses returns to Circe, starts for Ithaca, and leaves the Black Sea by passing through Scylla and Charybdis, which closed the entrance with their rocks surrounded by whirlpools. These are the islands of the "blue Symplegades," familiar to all who have- passed from Constantinople to the Crimea, standing at the entrance of the Bosphorus : Homer cannot mean the Straits of Messina, because he states, "You must pass at an equal distance between two fatal rocks. Incline never so little either to the one side or the other and your ship must meet with certain destruction. No vessel ever yet tried that pass, without being lost, but the Argo, which owed her safety to the sacred fi-eight she bore— the fleece of the Golden Ram." 6 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTER II. GRECIAN COLONIZATION OF THE COASTS OF THE EUXINE. The evidence of Herodotus is most decisive as to the original occupation of a portion of the coast on the Euxine by the Egj-ptians, prior to the arrival of the Greeks ; and he attributes to them the first introduction of the arts into Hellas. The records of antiquity which Egvpt has furnished to us prove that the Greek system of civilization was not indigenous. The architectural and sculptural wonders which have rendered Greece so illustrious, appear to have been partly derived from the valley of the Nile. We are told that on the fall of Troy the restless Grecian chiefs dispersed in quest of new exploits : Menelaus to Phoenicia and Egypt ; Diomede to the Adriatic ; Neoptolemus, son of Achilles, to the Euxine, &c., &c. The discovery of the rich countries on the shores of the Black Sea opened a new and vast field for commerce and colonization to this bold and enterprising people. The fleet of Neoptolemus was soon followed by that of the Milesians, from the city of Miletus, in Caria, and consequently lonians — a people who seem originally to have been what the Greeks call Barbarians ; although they were early incorporated with them in their military exploits, and were, in fact, the Swiss, or soldiers of fortune of that period — ever ready to hire themselves out to belligerent powers, or co-operate where rich plunder was the prize. These professional warriors soon vanquished the feeble forces that opposed them, and founded several colonies in Asia Minor; such as Trapezius, Sinope, &c. They rapidly extended their settlements along the Taurie coast, as far as the Cimmerian Bosphorus ; building in succession the cities of Theodosia, Parthenium (Yenekali), Heracleum (Arabat), MILESIAN SETTLEMENTS. / Panticapaeum, and others ; then passing the Straits, they founded the city of Phanagoria, and continuing their posts along the Asiatic shore, they erected their great northern mart Azoff, on the Don, then the river Tanais. Their establishments rose with extraordinary rapidity, and extended to the south and east of Phanagoria ; where the rich kingdom of Colchis was founded. To the north of Colchis is the river Phase, now Ehion, navigable for eighty miles, or as far as Kutais, by ships drawing four feet water. The lucrative Indian trade flowed into it, and the gold-dust, washed dowa in quantities by the mountain torrents fi'om the Caucasus, was collected then, as it now is, on sheep-skins sunk in the rivers ; the wool of which, when drawn out of the water, being bespangled with particles of the precious metal, resembled, and was therefore denominated, the golden fieece. The city of Sebastopolis, celebrated as a great mercantile emporium as far back as the middle ages, was erected in Colchis ; and the Empress Catherine has preserved and transferred to another spot the name of this famous Greek and Roman mart ; which was once frequented by traders of so many different nations, that we are informed one hundred and twenty interpreters were obliged to be kept there, to facilitate its vast commerce. The j\Iilesians also founded a famous emporium at about twelve miles from the present Nicolaef, in the province of Cherson, and called it Olbia; the vestiges of which are still to be found. Odessus, now Varna, was also settled by ^lilesians as early as 595 before Christ. At first independent of one another, these Milesian colonies wei'e influenced by an ine\dtable chain of events, and in the year 420 before Christ, theu* political union gave rise to the kingdom of the Bosphorus. Agriculture being the essential basis of the public wealth of the Milesians, the attention of the new government was directed especially to this important branch of industry. : 8 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. I have already stated that amongst the earliest of the jMilesian settlements in the Taurida was Panticapa^um, now Kertch. It seems always to have been the capital of the kingdom of the Bosphorus, and the residence of its princes; whose sway, under the great Mithridates, extended over the whole of the Crimea. From the industrious habits of its colonists, it speedily rose in agricultural prosperity, and was in its palmiest days the granary of Athens. Strabo informs us that Leucon II., the seventh king of the Bosphorus, during a great scarcity in Greece, sent to his friends the Athenians, one hundred thousand Grecian medemnas of wheat (three hundred and thirty millions of pounds weight) from the city of Theodosia, where he resided; and that the gi'ateful republicans rewarded him by electing him a citizen of Athens: an honour then held in high esteem by foreign princes. The event was at the same time commemorated by the erection of three columns, one of which was set up at Athens, one at Panticapsum, and a third near the temple of the Argonauts, which stood West of the Kuban, on the road between the two ancient kingdoms of Phanagoria and Colchis. This gift of corn by Leucon is also mentioned by Demosthenes in an oration against Settines ; and we further learn from this eloquent speech, that Theodosia was then one of the most famous cities of the ancient world. The Milesians called their new city Panticapajum, and dedicated it to the sylvan god Pan ; adopting his effigy as a monetary type, probably from the analogy of the name with that of their city, and also because of the abundance of the vine found in the country : the worship of Bacchus beincr general amongst them.* The citv was built on a range of hills, * Mi. Hogg, the Secretary of the Royal Society of Literature, in a paper read before tlie institution, argues, " that if the derivation of the word Panticapseum had been from the god Pan, it would have been Panicapcmm. M. Anatole de Demidoff has, with more probability, observed that the etymology of the name might seem to be the words Panti and Kepas, signifying in the Dorian dialect, everywhere and garden — that is, an entire SITE OF PANTICAP.BUM. 9 which formed at this period an isthmus into the bay, the Acropolis occupying the foreground. Strabo tells us that it was twenty stades in circumference, very closely built, and defended by a port. The sea has now receded into the bay, but a shallow salt-water lake still marks the extent to which the water formerly ascended. No art was needed to add to the beauty of this situation : with the ocean washing it on three sides, and from its height commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country and of the Circassian coast beyond the Straits, it is yet one of the finest in the Crimea. The range of heights on which Panticapseum was built occupied a plateau, from a point called Mons Mithridates, which was formerly a precipice above the sea — its height being about four hundred feet. The Acropolis was erected upon this precipice ; and probably from it Mithridates threw the body of his son Xiphanes into the waves ; there being no other spot so connected with the site of the city which would illustrate the text of Appian, who says that the deed was done in sight of the mother, on account of a fault committed by her. Traces of the foundation of the palace of Mithridates are still visible, near a small semicircular excavation in the rock, which is a work of great antiquity. At the extreme west of the site of the ancient city is a large artificial hill ; the height and size of which are so remarkable that it is scarcely possible to believe the mound to be the work of human labour. Pallas, unable to reconcile this surprising tumulus with any reference to history, or to his own notions of its being an artificial heap, endeavours to account for it by a natural process. But that it is the work of man is very evident ; for it is surrounded to its summit garden, or altogether a garden. But we cannot, I think, receive this as correct ; for the Milesians, who settled on the coast, came from Ionia, and would consequently speak the Ionic, not the Doric dialect. On the contrary, I conceive that the name of the city is simply of Scythian origin, it having been derived from the river Panticapes, in Sarmatia or Scythia, to w^hich the Greek termination alov, amn, was added." 10 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. with a circular wall of Cyclopean masonry, formed of immense unshapen masses of stone placed regularly together without any cement. In shape the mound is hemispherical, and its substance consists of large stones confusedly heaped together. The Eussian Government have explored this hill most effectually. In its centre two large chambers were found ; and on its sides two others; in each of which treasure to a very large amount was discovered. From this artificial hill the inner vallum or barrier extended on each side to the sea. And the work still exists in an entire state, varying in height from five to seven feet, and about the same in breadth ; having a fosse of from ten to fifteen feet in breadth in front, and passing across the peninsula to the Sea of Azoff. Some miles further is the second vallum; and a third was placed across from Arabat to Theodosia. THE CHERSONESUS HERACLEA.* 11 CHAPTEE III. TEJIPLE OF DIANA— IXSAXUBRITY OF THE CLB1.\.TE OF THE (^RIJIEA. Stimulated by the success of the Milesians, another of the great Hellenic races, proceeding from Heraclea (a town on the opposite coast of the Black Sea in Bithynia, where, during the late war, coal mines had been opened to supply our fleets) endeavoured on their side to found colonies in the Crimea. They turned to the western part of the peninsula, and disembarked not far from the celebrated Cape Parthenike, or the cape of the Virgin, now called Cape Violente or St. George ; and having driven back into the mountains the savage Tauri, they formed the famous city of Cherson, in the seventh century before Christ, and named it, in honor of the mother country, Chersonesus Heraclea. This little peninsula is surrounded on three sides by water. It is cut off from the rest of the Crimea by a low valley, in which a stream runs, between Inkerman and Balaklava. The wall which marked out its boundary may still be traced at the foot of the hills running parallel with the valley. The space within the walls is covered with ruins, the extent of which proves the great commercial importance to which this colony had attained. The Chersonesians, who were Dorians, were always rivals of the Bosphorians at Panticapjeum, and the two colonies were continually at war; until both were imited by Diophantes, a general under the sway of Mithridates the Great, in the last century before the Christian era. Ensconced to the west, in the ledge of a precipice, is the romantic Greek Monastery of St. George. This spot looks as if it were suspended by enchantment at several hundred feet above the sea, in the midst of 12 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. an amphitheatre of black basaltic rock, which rises majestically around, and forms a striking contrast to the rich verdure in which the monastery is hidden. A door and staircase cut in the rock form the only entrance to the Hermitage : these were no doubt first excavated by those dwellers underground whose remains are so numerous in the Crimea. On visiting this spot in the month of September, 1855, the remains of an aqueduct formed of concave tiles — exactly similar in construction to one which I came upon during my excavations at Kertch — was pointed out to me. It was four feet under the surface, and was traced for a considerable distance, by some workmen engaged in preparing the foundation for a hospital about to be erected. On this cape stood the temple of the Tauric Diana, famous in early history. To this goddess all strangers were sacrificed who suffered shipwreck on this inhospitable coast ; and it derived its ancient name from this sanguinary virgin divinity of the Tauri. When the Greeks arrived from Heraclea, they brought in the worship of Hercules and Diana; and as they always respected the religion of the countries they visited, and found a great resemblance between their own Diana and the virgin of the Tauri, they probably merged the two into one, under the name of the Tauric Diana ; discontinuing, however, the barbarous custom of off'ering human victims. Both Guthrie and Clarke dwell on the extreme insalubrity of this peninsula; more especially that portion between Balaklava and Inkerman. The former, it is asserted, " is one of the most unhealthy spots in all the Taurida, and its inhabitants are constantly lamenting the unhappy fate of their friends and relatives, cut off by an unknown enemy which pours out death and disease from a hidden source. The deadly vapour so destructive here seems to be a putrid marsh miasmata, a pestiferous blast which chases even the hardy Russian troops from the modern Cherson." CLIMATE OF THE CRIMEA. 13 Regarding the climate of the Crimea generally, Clarke states that fevers are so prevalent during the summer that it is hardly possible to avoid them. " If you drink water after eating fruit, a fever follows. If you eat milk, eggs, or butter, a fever. If, during the scorching heat of the day, you indulge in the most trivial neglect of clothing, a fever. If you venture out to enjoy the delightful breezes of the evening, a fever. In short, such is the dangerous nature of the climate to strangers, that Russia must consider the country a cemetery for the troops which are sent to maintain its possession. " This is not the case with regard to the native inhabitants. The precautions they use, added to their experience, insure their safety. Upon the slightest change of weather, they are seen muffled up in sheep skins, and covered by thick felts, while their heads are swathed in numerous bandages of linen, or guarded by warm stuffed caps fenced with wool." The alternations between heat and cold in this country arc extreme. At one time in the twenty-four hours the heat exceeds that of an Indian sun, and the surface of the body is bedewed ^\-ith a salutary moisture; then suddenly the wind changes, this moisture becomes cold and clammy, and a revulsion instantly takes place to one of the internal organs, giving rise to a tissue of disorders which speedily undermine the system. The sick of the force to which I was attached averaged from two to three per cent, only ; and this satisfactory state was in a gi'eat measure attributable to the precautions adopted to prevent those sudden chills which lead to such sad and often fatal consequences. . It is difficult to conceive that, in a coimtry situated in the same latitude as Venice, namely, 45 degrees North (where the freezing of the sea would be considered a prodigj), the rigour of the winter should be so great. Herodotus sums up his account of the climate as follows : — 1st. That they have eight months winter: seldom rains during this period. 14 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. 2nd. That if water is thrown on the ground it freezes, and that nothing but fire can produce mud or dirt then. 3rd. Summer is rather short and wet, and thunder is seldom heard. At a period long prior to the Christian era, we are told that ]\Iithridates defeated the Barbarians during the summer in a naval engagement opposite Kertch ; and that on exactly the same spot he afterwards encountered and defeated them on the ice, in a cavalry action. And we may judge of the duration of the winter, by the fact placed on record, that early in the month of October, 763, and on the 4th February, 1769, the ice was so strong that loads on carts were transported across the Straits. A gentleman who has been many years resident in the Crimea, informs me that in the years 1845-46 and 48 he has seen waggon loads of hay cross from the town of Taman to Kertch, and that during the last thirteen years seldom a season passed that the post was unable to cross upon the ice. These instances of severe winter in the Euxine would justify the lamentations of Ovid; who, in his letter to Vestalis, written from Tome, his place of exile on the Dniester, bitterly complains that not only was the Euxine frozen, but even the wine he was going to drink. SUPPOSED LOCAL DELUGES. 15 CHAPTER IV. SUPPOSED LOCAL DELUGES— EARLY GREEK PRINCES IN THE CRIMEA— inTHRIDATES THE GREAT TAKES POSSESSION. Besides the settlements already enumerated, the Greeks raised commercial cities on the Dniester and Dnieper on the west, and Odessa, as far as the Danuhe, on the south. The rest of the coast, down to Byzantium, now Constantinople, was occupied by the Thracians ; hence its fine and secure port has been denominated the Thracian Bosphorus. There are many indications which tend to prove that the Euxine was once much higher than it now is. Some of the rocks along the coast are marked in a peculiar manner, at a considerable height, indicating, tradition says, the places where formerly ships were fastened. This would lead us to give credit to the accounts of the ancients relative to the bursting of a passage through the Thracian Bosphorus, prior to which the Black and Caspian Seas had been united. Diodorus Siculus tells us, for example, that the Samothracians, who were inhabitants of an island at the entrance of the Hellespont, complain that, besides the universal deluge, they have been afflicted by two others peculiar to themselves : first, when the mouth of the Cianes, the ancient name for the Thracian Bosphorus, burst open ; and next, when the waters of the Euxine broke through the entrance of the Hellespont, on the Sea of Marmora becoming too full. He explains the local deluge in the following manner : — " The Euxine, being shut up on all sides like a lake, while a number of large rivers were pouring their waters into it, became at last so full as to force a passage through the Thracian Bosphorus into the Propontis (Sea of Marmora) ; and when that little lake could hold no 16 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. more, it again burst through the Hellespont (Dardanelles), and laid under water not only many of the plains of Samothracia, but even a part of Asia." No correct record has been handed down to us of the very early Greek princes who ruled over the Cimmerian Bosphorus and neighbouring settlements. But we have definite historical information, that they were denominated Archceanactides, or ancient chiefs, and that they first became connected with the country and began to plant colonies about 650 years before Christ. Neoptolemus — on the death of his father, Achilles, during the Trojan war — as I have already stated, migrated to this coast, and these chiefs were his descendants. Spartacus was the first prince of whom we read in history, about 480 years before Christ. It is proved, by inscriptions, that he and his descendants styled themselves Archons of Panticapteum and Theodosia, and Kings of Sindi, Toreti and Dandari — native populations. Leucon, already referred to, was the fifth : his reign extended forty years. The medallic history of the Bosphorus began with him : with him too the colony began to assume that importance which it afterwards attained. He released the Athenians from the " Thirtieth," which they had hitherto paid as an export duty on grain. By this and his other liberal measures of free trade, Panticapieum speedily became the granary of Greece. Merchants flocked to it from all quarters, where they bought woollen cloths, furs, and the salted fish which still forms one of the staples of Southern Eussia. The imports are little spoken of in history, but it is evident, from the results of the excavations at Kertch, that they must have consisted of articles of luxury. From the days of Solomon, 700 years before Chi'ist, an extensive trade had been carried on with India ; and he probably only followed the track beaten for thousands of years before him. The Bosphorians received in return for their productions a portion of this trade, as well as all the manufactured articles which luxury and riches had introduced PRINCES OF THE BOSPHORUS. 17 into usage at Athens. And it is not improbable that the magnificent relics of antiquity and works of art M'hich had been collected in the museum of Kertch, since unhappily scattered and destroyed, had been introduced from the same brilliant metropolis. This proves that the agricultural colonists of the Crimea were not behind their kinsmen in love for the arts and the refinements of civilized life. There is no trace of white marble in the Crimea, nor on the northern shores of the Black Sea, although quantities of it have been found in the excavations around Kertch ; there is every reason to believe, therefore, that materials for building must have formed an important part of the imports, and that the enormous pieces of sculpture and bas-reliefs, which were employed there in the public and private buildings, were brought ready worked from the quarries of Greece. Following Leucon, were four princes in succession ; a blank then takes place in the Bosphoric history for a period of one hundred and seventy years. Up to this period, notwithstanding the dangerous neighbourhood of the Sarmatians, the kingdom of the Bosphorus enjoyed perfect tranquillity for more than three hundred years. At this epoch, the Bosphorians were attacked by the Scythians ; and, being too feeble to resist them, threw themselves into the arms of Mithridates : their king, Periscades, declaring that he was unable to resist the inroads of the barbaric tribes who now began to press upon Eastern Europe and Western Asia, and that he could not think of permitting his beloved subjects to spill their blood in so unequal a contest — after having bled so often in his defence. Mithridates, on securing his possessions here, gave the government of this colony — now become a province of Pontus ■ — to his son, Machares ; returning himself to his capital, Sinope. Up to this period, 120 years before Christ, we have a list of eleven kings handed down to us, independent princes of the Bosphorus. 18 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTEE V. CONQUESTS OF inXHRIDATES— DETHKONEIEENT BY HIS SOX— HIS DEATH— HIS POWER AJSTD GREATNESS. The Kingdom of Pontus was not established until after the conquest of Persia by Alexander, b.c. 334, when Mithridates, styled Eupator, or the Illustrious, became hereditary satrap of this portion of the Persian Empire. While yet a child of eleven years of age, he was educated by the Greeks in his capital, Sinope, in the arts of war, and in all the knowledge of the times. On coming of age, with the view to enlarge his views, he travelled for three years through many parts of the East. On his return, he began his system of independence; and failing to receive justice for certain encroachments on his patrimony by the Romans, he, with the rapidity of Alexander himself, formed an army, and not onlv recovered all Asia Minor, but even drove the Romans out of Greece, Macedon, and Thrace. He also subdued with wonderful celerity all the Greek colonies from the Thracian Bosphorus eastward to Phanagoria and the Taurida, which were at this time divided between the Bosphorites and Chersonites. His second son Pharnaces received Phanagoria and adjoining colonies as his appanage. Mithridates now led his victorious army to the opposite side of the Euxine, reduced the Heraclea Chersonesus, after a vigorous defence by its ruler, Scilurus, and his fifty sons, and ultimately extended his empire as far as the Dniester, the Tyros of the ancients. While Mithridates was engaged with his army elsewhere, he was called to defend his kingdom of Pontus, again invaded by the Romans. His rebellious sons, Machares and Pharnaces, leagued at the same time to accomplish his overthrow. In the Kingdom of Pontus he was DETHRONEMENT AND DEATH OF MITHRIDATES. 19 defeated by Pompey ; on which, accompanied by three hundred horse, he fled to his kingdom on the Bosphorus. His son Machares, dreading punishment, took refuge in Arabat, the Heracleum of Ptolemy, where he was killed by some of his father's faithful subjects. The old King now set about making vigorous preparations for executing the bold project of a descent into Italy, in order, by attacking the Roman dominions, to oblige the Senate to recall Pompey. But the Bosphoric troops, being partly composed of Eoman deserters, trembled at the thought of trusting themselves in Italy ; consequently his rebellious son Pharnaces found it an easy matter to stir up revolt, both in the army encamped before the city and in the fleet moored in the port of Panticapajum. The venerable hero had gone to rouse his troops to the bold enterprise which he meditated : and the chair, hewn out of the solid rock, from which he then addressed the assembled multitude, is as distinctly visible now as it was at the time he sat upon it. But he found his son Pharnaces, whom he had pardoned for an attempt on his life, in open rebellion against him ; whereupon he left the camp in despair, and shut himself up in his fortress. Convinced that all was lost, and hearing the shouts of his troops proclaiming the traitor king, Mithridates, after some fruitless attempts to gain permission from his rebellious son to spend his few remaining days in retirement, besought the gods, from the battlements where he stood, to make his son one day feel the anguish of a father in a similar situation. Then, retiring into the interior of his palace, he dismissed with presents and blessings his few remaining friends ; and fearing that his son would deliver him over to the Eomans, on whom he had made war for forty years, he resolved to destroy himself. His two favourite daughters, Mithridata and Nissa, brides of the King of Egypt and Cyprus, seeing his intention, resolved to die with their father, rather than live slaves to Rome ; and all three partook of the poison-cup which Mithridates always carried 20 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. about with him in his sword-belt, ready at hand, lest at any time he might fall into the hands of the haughty Romans. The parricide son sent his father's body to Pompey, who buried it with great splendour and state in the tomb of his ancestors at Sinope. Thus fell, by domestic treason, in the 70th year of his age, after a glorious reign of fifty-seven years, the renowned Mithridates, the hero of his country, and the greatest sovereign of his time — a promoter of trade, and a great patron of letters ; which he must have cultivated himself to good purpose, for we are told that he could address the ambassadors of twenty-two nations (the number living under the sway of his sceptre) each in his own language. His death freed the Romans from an enemy who had for forty years resisted the strength and policy of the great Republic. Mithridates set their power at defiance, and is acknowledged by the Latin wi-iters to have given more trouble to Rome than Pyrrhus or Hannibal, wdth the Kings of Scythia and Macedon united ; for he ever scorned the slavery and subjection which the Romans imposed on other sovereigns. But the best testimony to his greatness was the rejoicing in Rome on the occasion of his death. We learn from the famous orator Cicero, in whose consulship the joyful tidings were received, that the Senate decreed a twelve days' festival in order to thank the gods for their wonderful deliverance ; while the tribunes enacted that Pompey should wear a crown of laurel and triumphal robes. The force at the disposal of Mithridates was almost beyond belief. In one of his campaigns he had under his command 400 ships, 50,000 horse, and 250,000 foot ; with all the engines of war and arms necessary for so vast a multitude. He received a personal allowance from his Bosphorian empire of 720,000 bushels of corn, and 200,000 ounces of silver; and at his death the amount of treasure which he had accumulated was so great that, in one of his cities, Tahura, it took the Roman commissaries thirty days to TREASURES OF MITHRIDATES. 21 prepare an inventory of his valuables. These consisted of costly trinkets, gems, cups, and salvers of gold, all of the most curious workmanship; and a number of massive gold statues, amongst which was one of himself, eio^ht cubits hicrh. The source whence this wonderful profusion of the precious metal was derived was most probably the rich kingdom of Colchis, which so early attracted the aridity of the Greeks to carry off its "golden fleece." The inhabitants still intercept the particles of gold by means of sheep-skins placed in the rivers ; the mines whence this supply is obtained being possibly known to and worked by the ancients. 22 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTER VI. SUBJUGATION BY THE EOJIANS UNTDER JULIUS C^SAB— INVASIONS OE THE ALANS, GOTHS, AND HUNS — VENETIAN AND GENOESE COLONISTS — THE TLTiKISH DOJIINATION— ENGLISH MERCHANTS— CHAKACTER OF THE TLTIKS— THE EUSSL&N OCCUPATION. After the defeat and death of her implacable enemy, Rome preserved to the traitor Pharnaces the crown of the Bosphorus ; but the sovereignty of the new prince was only nominal, and the successors of the son of Mithridates, without power, and despoiled of their possessions on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, depended for the maintenance of their dignity on the caprice of the Roman Emperors. The whole of the vast dominions which had been under the sway of IMithridates, were speedily reduced to Eoman pro\dnces. The parricide Pharnaces remained as tributary prince over the Taurida and Bosphorus; until, in an unsuccessful attempt to recover his father's lost provinces, he met with the just punishment of his crime. His defeat and dethronement were the result of the famous battle begun by Julius Cajsar with the memorable words, "Shall this treacherous parricide go unpunished?" and it was in relating his victory to the Senate that Csesar uttered the memorable words, " Veni, vidi, vici." It were needless to enumerate the other princes who ruled over this kingdom. There were thirty-six in all. The coins struck after the date of the last prince bear on the reverse either the portraits or names of the Eoman Emperors, their lords paramount. Saromates VI. was the last sovereign ; his Roman contemporary being Constantine the Great. The rulers latterly had much degenerated, and the art of coining, in which at one time they had so much excelled, had all but disappeared. SUCCESSIVE INVASIONS OF BARBARIANS. 23 The kingdom of the Bosphorus existed from 650 years before Christ until about 340 of our era, or close upon one thousand years. The Alans now ravaged the country. The Goths displaced them, retaining possession for a considerable period ; and the name of Gothia remained to it till nearly the end of the sixteenth century. The conquerors mixed intimately with the vanquished people, and gave themselves up to their taste for a sedentary and agricultural life. But the Crimea could not rise from the obscurity to which it was condemned by the great political events which signalized the first century of the Christian era. In the midst of the first invasions of the Barbarians, the little republic of Cherson, protected by its remote and inaccessible situation, preserved its independence. In the reign of the Emperor Diocletian, the Chersonites had centred in themselves the commerce which had existed between the Crimea and shores of the Black Sea ; and their republic was the most powerful state in the peninsula. They gradually occupied the whole of the Crimea, as well as the opposite side of the Cimmerian Bosphorus ; and becoming converts to Christianity, they procured bishops from Constantinople. The Huns, accompanied by the Kzars, poured down from the interior of Asia, and annihilated the Goths. Other barbarous hordes succeeded one another thereafter ; of whom the greater number have left no trace but a name. To these there succeeded two remarkable nations : one, the conqueror of Asia, was just founding the most gigantic empire of the middle ages ; and the other, issuing from a merchant city in Italy, was destined to make Kzaria — as it was then denominated — the centre of commercial relations between Europe and Asia. The remarkable invasion of the Mogul Tartars took place in 1226, and about the same period the Venetians began to predominate in the Euxine. Towards the decline of the Eastern Koman Empire, the latter assisted in seating a Latin prince on the throne of Constantinople, and expelled for a time the Turks; thus securing for themselves a monopoly 24 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. of the trade. For a short time the fleets of Venice rode triumphant on the Black and AzofiF Seas, and she retained settlements on its shores, until a second revolution threw the commerce and colonies of the Euxine into the hands of her rivals, the Genoese, who restored the Greek dynasty, and thus monopolized in turn all the mercantile advantages enjoyed by the Venetians. The Genoese being as intelligent and active as the Greeks, and endowed with a still bolder mercantile instinct, the Crimea was destined to enjov, for a time, a gi-eater commercial grandeur than at any period since the Milesians founded their colony on the Cimmerian Bosphorus. Already masters of important factories at Constantinople, the Genoese had long been able to apreciate the position of the Black Sea, and the immense resources which it placed at their command. It was in 1280 that this democratic republic founded a sort of empire in the Taurida, and selected the ancient city of Theodosia for its capital. They monopolized the commerce of the Euxine for nearly two centuries. The riches and plunder which they amassed during this period obtained for them the name of the Golden Horde ; and they had gradually gained such an ascendancy as to be able to influence the choice of a Khan, and settle disputes relative to succession : for, however little they were disposed to acknowledge it, both the Venetian and Genoese colonists were always vassals, and paid tribute to the Tartar ruler of the country. Under the Genoese, the Crimea saw revived one of the most brilliant epochs of its history. Kaffa, or Theodosia, rivalled Constantinople ; and the possession of Kertch and Balaklava rendered them masters of the southern coast. Tana, situated at the mouth of the Don, was taken from the Tartars. Numerous factories rose in Colchis ; and the imperial town of Trebizonde itself was obliged to allow an establishment there. The Crimea became a general entrepot for the rich productions of Kussia, Asia Minor, Persia, and the Indies. Monopolizing all mercantile exchanges between Europe and Asia, the Genoese colonists presented a wonderful spectacle of prosperity and riches. CONQUEST BY THE TURKS. 25 The term of all this glory at last arrived. In 1453 the standard of Mahomet was displayed on the dome of St. Sophia, and the relations of the Crimea with the Mediterranean were broken. Exulting in their strength and fancied security, the Genoese set the authority of the local chief at defiance, and aimed at the sovereignty of the country. The Khan, unable to cope with them alone, sought the aid of the Turks from Constantinople. By the all-powerful aid of Mahomet II., the ruling Sultan, who had just returned from a successful expedition against Persia in 1473, the power of the haughty colonists was completely humbled; they were transported to populate a suburb of Constantinople, and confounded with the other slaves of the Ottoman Empire. On the fall of the Genoese, their rivals, the Venetians, applied for the commerce of the Euxine; which the politic Mahomet granted, on the express condition that fire-arms and gunpowder should constitute a part of evei-y cargo. By this means he soon amassed a sufiicient quantity of both to enable him to shut up the Thracian Bosphorus against Venice and all other nations. The English had the nominal right of navigating the Black Sea; and there are some vestiges of our having had a footing there in the days of Queen Elizabeth or James I. In the treaty made between England and Turkey in 1675, there is an express article giving a general permission of ingress and egress " to enable English merchants and all under their banner to go by way of the Tanais into Moscovia, and also to and from Persia, and to traffic bv land and sea through all their confines." The Turks now became rulers of this once classic country. It would be contrary to the nature of things to find that civilization advanced, or improvement was effected by them; wherever the Turks hold sway, they convert what was once the centre of civilization, to a state of barbarism. Their wretched peasantry may be improved ; but to do 26 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. anything with the higher orders of the Mussulman community is impossible : they are, morally, too debased and depraved in sentiment to reform, and too proud to be dictated to. Satisfied to eke out an existence from the means Pro^ddence has placed within their reach, and considering themselves all that is perfect, they desire neither to search into the past, nor look forward to the future. Has the blood and treasure lately so freely lavished by enlightened Europe on their behalf improved them ? Are her Christian subjects, on whose account the war was undertaken, released from the thraldom which bound them ? No ! the bigotry of their religion will not let them govern in a spirit of toleration. Instead of being grateful for the exertions recently made to preserve their independence, the Turks boast of having been the means of " settinw the dog's to fiofht aijainst each other on their account : " these are the exact words which were addressed to a medical gentleman connected with the Sultan's harem by some of the inmates. They laugh at the idea of enlisting into their army any portion of the Christian population, or placing " Giaours " on an equality with themselves. The peasantry are easily ruled ; but raise them one grade above the serf, and they become cunning and deceitful. The private soldier, promoted to a corporal, only values his rank on account of the opportunities it affords him of improving his position by peculation or otherwise ; and so it is with all, u]) to the highest grade. Every appointment of the State has a fixed salary, and more than double its amount " can be made out of it." In fact, they are to all intents an effete race ; and the sooner they cease to rule in Europe the better : or they must be shorn of all independent command, and ruled as we rule our Mahomedan subjects in India. I will now close this epitome of the ancient history of the Taurida and its adjoining states, by stating that in 1/71 the Russians finally overthrew the Turks, and secured to themselves uninterrupted possession, ^Ve have thus seen, that the Crimea has been connected with the earliest history of Greece and the " most high and palmy state " of the ANALOGY OF RUSSIAN AND GREEK CEREMONIALS. 27 Eoman Empire; that its maritime cities were constantly occupied by the enlightened commercial nations of Europe, enriching their inhabitants and proving a nursery for seamen; and finally that its present possessors appear to have obtained the Grecian mythology and customs from the colonists anciently settled along the Euxine coast. In fact, so striking are the analogies between the ceremonial usages of the Russian and the Greek, that the ancient kingdom of Russia would almost appear to be a regeneration of the latter empire. PART II. DETAILED ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR'S EESEARCHES IN THE CIMMERIAN BOSPHORUS. CHAPTER I. ASPECT OF THE COtTNTKY ROUND KERTCH — ANCIENT SEPUT.CHRES — THE MODERN TO'OTf — RUSSIAN VANDALISM — DESTRUCTION OF RUINS AN"D SUBSEQUENT PRESERVATION OF SCULPTURES — THE TUMLXI. The traveller on approaching Kertch, whether by land or by sea, beholds a wide expanse of steppe or meadow land, having an undulating surface dotted -R-ith ridges and mounds. As he nears the Necropolis of the ancient ^Milesian city, these mounds assume the appearance of immense cones. The surface of these mounds and ridges is so equally developed, they are so regular in formation, so strikingly similar in every respect, and so numerous, that the mind at once becomes convinced of their artificial construction. They are, in fact, sepulchres of the ancient world; and their size and grandeur excite astonishing ideas of the wealth and power of the people by whom they were erected : for the labour of construction must have been prodigious and the expenditure enormous. Grotesque peaks of coral rag arise from the plains, in the midst of these sepulchral monuments, and give a sublime aspect to this vast field of the dead. The modern town of Kertch is completely Russianized, being of recent construction, and occupies a site beneath that of the ancient Panticapseum, once the Queen city of the Bosphorus. It stands upon the western shore of the straits, leading from the Black Sea to the Sea of Azoff, and separating Europe from Asia; the bi-eadth of which, measured in 1068, over the ice (as is recorded on a stone pillar now fixed at Taman), is 8,054 fathoms, corresponding exactly with the measurement given by Strabo. But the actual channel for ships barely exceeds one mile and a half in width, and this is gradually narrowing in consequence of the quantities of 32 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. sand washed down by the current which always flows from the Sea of Azoff. In the time of Peter the Great, at the taking of Azoff, corvettes of forty guns could pass through these straits ; now they will not admit vessels drawing more than twelve feet of water. The modern appellation Kertch is a corruption of Gherseti, a name given by the Turks to a fortress erected here by the Genoese, which was called by the geographers of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries Bospro or Vespro. Russian vandalism has efi'aced all traces of the statelv ruins that formerly existed here : the walls of the ancient city have been razed to the ground, and its monuments have all been demolished. Since the Eussians have possessed the Crimea, they have utterly annihilated all the ancient remains of its former greatness ; and its beautiful architectural structures have been displaced in order to supply materials for -the erection of their huge uninteresting barracks. The Russian Government, however, has shown, for some years past, a laudable desire to preserve all fragments of interest ; and, with this view, appointed a commission to collect into one place the mutilated tablets of marble, the elegant arabesques, the bas-reliefs and other sculptures that marked the origin and history of the colony. The Tumuli, which up to this period had been common property, were taken under the protection of Government. For hundreds of years these mounds have proved a mine of wealth to the successive tribes and nations who have followed in the wake of those who formed them. In fact, the importance of this ancient Greek colony was only recognised on the discovery in these tombs, within the last few years, of valuable antiquities and relics of art testifying to its former greatness. The local tradition is, that the Tumuli were raised over the remains of the rulers who held sway over the colonists ; and that the earth was heaped upon them annually on the anniversary of the decease of the prince, and for a period of years corresponding to the rank or respect FORMATION OF THE TUMULI. 33 in which its tenant was held, or the time he had reigned over them : and at this day the successive layers of earth heaped on each succeeding year can be traced ; a thin coating of rushes, seaweed, charcoal or other substance having been apparently first put down, with the view probably of preventing the moisture of the fresh soil permeating that below and thus displacing it. The thickness of these fresh layers of earth is usually from one to three feet, according to the height of the mounds : which are to be seen of all sizes, varying in circumference from ten to four hundred feet, and having an elevation of from five to one hundred and fifty. A Tumulus four hundred by one hundred feet, not an uncommon size, would give in cubic measure three millions of cubic feet of earth and stone to form the sepulchre ; for they are usually composed of surface soil, broken pottery, stone, and in fact debris of every sort. I have distinctly traced as many as thirty-four layers in a scarp formed in one of these mounds, at a depth reaching only to about two-thirds of its height ; and the probability is that there would have been as many more visible if the entire mound had been cut down to the base. These sepulchres of the ancient world are found in many countries ; we have them in the form of barrows in England, and cairns in Scotland. It seems to have been the custom of the age in which these heaps were raised, to bring stones or earth from all parts of the country to the tomb of a deceased sovereign. To add to the heap was esteemed an act of loyalty or of piety ; and the expression of friendship or afifection, " I will cast a stone upon thy grave," is still used in the North of Scotland. Calculated as these mounds are for almost endless duration, they present the simplest and sublimest monument that could have been raised over the dead. And when we reflect that these huge heaps were raised for the purpose of inhuming a single body, customs and superstitions are manifested which serve to illustrate the origin of the pyramids of Egypt, and the caves of Ellora and Elephanta. 34 ANTIQUITIES 'OF KERTCH. CHAPTER II. SCYTHIAN MODE OF SEPULTURE ADOPTED BY THE GREEKS— RUSSIAN RESEARCHES AND THEIK RESULTS — DESCRIPTION OF THE TUMULI BY MR. WINTER JONES AND M. ANTON ASHIK — MR. RUSSELL'S ACCOUNT OF THE PLUNDER OF THE KERTCH MUSEUM. Acting on the same principle which prompts us to erect an obelisk or a monument in memory of our great men, our primitive forefathers dug a deep shaft in the earth, in which they placed the remains of their rulers, with some valuables, and over this was raised the mound. We have the authority of Herodotus, the father of history, who wrote so far back as 450 years before the birth of Christ, for asserting, that the Scythians, who we have seen were possessors of the Taurida, adopted this mode of perpetuating the memory of their deceased princes. He states that " in the event of a king's decease they envelope the body in wax, open the belly and cleanse it out, then stuff it full of turmeric and aromatics, together with parsley and anise seed. They now dig a deep square fosse, and place the body in its grave on a bed of grass, planting spears on both sides. The people receive the dead body and act in this manner. They cut off the tips of their ears, shave the hair around their heads, make incisions in their arms, lacerate their faces and noses, and drive arrows through their left hands. In the vacant space left around the body in the fosse they now lay one of the king's concubines, whom they strangle for the purpose — his cup-bearer, his cook, his groom, his page, and all his things, as gold cups, &c., &c. In another place he states that fifty of his slaves are also strangled. Having so done, all fall to work throwing up an immense mound, striving and vieing with one another who shall do the most." RUSSIAN RESEARCHES AND THEIR RESULTS. 35 The Greeks, who always respected the religion of the countries they had conquered, and who, to a certain extent, gradually followed their customs and religious observances, appear to have adopted this Scythian mode of burial. Instead, however, of placing their deceased princes or magistrates in a deep square fosse, they formed a tomb of stone, and over this heaped the conical mound. It cannot be supposed that these rich sepulchres escaped the cupidity of the barbarous settlers who succeeded the Greeks. The Genoese, it is well known, explored the largest and most valuable of them. They appear also to have skilfully reclosed their excavations, which were effected by means of a direct shaft from the apex of the mound ; and it is only by piercing into the substance of it, that their marks can be traced: as we learned to our cost in prosecuting these researches. But it was not until the Russian Government got possession of the country that investigations were carried on, with a view to preserve for future ages the treasures of art concealed in these tombs. During the last forty years, a scientific body, under the auspices of that Government, have conducted researches in these regions with much success. The entire country was accurately surveyed, and the Tumuli were numbered and marked out. Unlike the Genoese, the Russians never reclosed their excavations ; the extent of their operations can, therefore, be easily seen. Valuable specimens of Hellenic art — such as sculptured marbles ; metal, alabaster, and Etruscan vases; glass vessels, remarkable for their lightness ; ivory car\ings ; coins, peculiarly pleasing on account of their sharpness and finish ; trinkets, executed with a skill that would bear comparison with that of our best workmen, and exhibiting a degree of luxury amongst the ladies which we should not expect to have found two thousand years ago — have been taken from these Tumuli. All originals were forwarded to the Hermitage at St. Petei-sburg ; duplicates only being preserved in the museum at Kertch. And these latter might with ease have been secured to England, on the investment of this place by the 36 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. Allies ; but the whole of those rare treasures were, for the want of a little precaution, most barbarously made away with. Mr. Winter Jones in a communication to the " Archaeological Journal," in 1849, which is the first notice we in England possess of these tombs, states : — " For centuries these Tumuli have been excavated for the purpose of finding ti-easure. The Genoese and Turks alike ransacked them for the gold they were believed to contain ; and when the Crimea fell into the possession of Kussia, in the year 1774, every one was allowed to explore them at pleasure. It was not until 1820 that a proper restriction was imposed upon this practice: in that year Count Eumjanzov obtained from the Kussian Government the exclusive rig-ht of excavating the kurgans. " In the year 1828 the Archaeological Museum of Kertch was established, and from that period the director of the Museum -has acted as superintendent of the excavations. This office was performed by Herr Blai-amberg, the first director, until his death in 1832 ; when it devolved upon his successor, Herr Ashik, who has produced an important work upon this interesting subject. About ten of these kurgans are excavated every year, and the most precious portion of the objects dug up are deposited in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg, the remainder finding a place in the Museum at Kertch. In an article in Erman's ' Archiv fiir wissenchaftliche Kunde von Russland,' the author observes, ' The results of the excavations at Kertch, notwithstanding their great importance for history and antiquities, have remained almost unknown to the learned world, so little has the public interest in them been aroused, even in Russia, to the present time. How few are there who know that that kind of ancient vase, which is improperly termed Etruscan, is also dug up in Russian ground — that Greek sculptures of the highest art are dug out amongst us — that we possess splendid monuments of Cyclopsean architecture, and that, far from both capitals, on the extreme edge of the southern Steppes towards the Black Sea, there exists another MR. WINTER JONES ON THE TUMULI. 37 Herculaneum, another subterranean Etruria, rich in treasures, often unique in their kind, and which throw light upon the darkest periods of the past. "The curious publication by the Director of the Kertch Museum (Anton Ashik), to which allusion has been made, consists, for the most part, of a description of the frescoes on the walls of one of the catacombs or kurgans, opened by him in the year 1843. He states that, up to the year 1834, not one of the searchers after antiquities suspected that in Panticapseum, as in Italy, there existed catacombs cut in the rocks. These Tumuli had been opened by many archaeologists, but it had escaped their attention that under these mounds were concealed an innumerable number of funeral caves. This discovery was made in the following manner : — In the year 1834, while superintending the excavations of the kurgans, and observing closely the regular ranges of these Tumuli, M. Ashik observed that at the foot of each mound, towards the north-east, there was a small cavity in which the earth was always moist, whence the herbage there was more green than in the other parts of the Tumuli. This fact is very striking. In British Tumuli the deposit has frequently been found in a similar position." M. Ashik, in 1841, opened a tomb, the walls of which were covered with paintings. Of the character of these interesting specimens of art he gives the following account : — " These paintings excel every thing of the kind which had been discovered up to that time in our subterranean Etruria ; not so much, however, by their execution as by their subject. I showed them to many learned archseologists of Italy and Germany, to whom it appeared incredible that objects of antiquity so remarkable could be found in the Taurida. The painting of the catacombs belongs to the Greek style — there is observable in it, however, the reflex of art prevailing in Eome at the commencement of the Christian era. The walls of the catacombs were covered with stucco or plaster, on which the drawings were made in 38 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. water-colours — white, black, red, yellow, blue, green, grey — with the same colours, in short, which are observed in the frescoes discovered in several parts of Tuscany, particularly near Corneto, in the year 1831. When we entered the catacomb the painting was very fresh and nowhere injured. I immediately commenced copying the paintings, and in three days, with the assistance of M. Stephanski, draughtsman to the Kertch Museum, I succeeded in making a faithful fac-simile, corresponding to the original even in the minute parts. It was observed that the air penetrating into the vaults, from which the rays of light had been excluded during the course of many ages, destroyed not only the paintings, but even the plaster. In fact, the next day after thev were discovered there appeared on the walls a great deal of humidity, the colours began to grow pale, and the plaster to detach itself from the wall and fall at the slightest pressure. Almost all the monuments of funereal painting discovered in Italy have undergone the same fate ; there, likewise, they have not been able to protect them against the influence of the air and damp." This talented archaeologist then proceeds to give a description of the frescoes — " The drawings on the wall are divided into two portions or lines, ornamented above the frieze with a grey flower, one foot three inches wide. This frieze comprises, in itself, ten oblong squares : in the centre is represented a head in profile, with the mouth half open ; at the sides are peacocks, and in the remaining squares are seen two masks of fauns, with long ears, two ordinary female masks, and three branches of the pomegranate tree, with flowers and fruit. Along the whole length of the frieze, below, there is a garland of vine branches, and clusters of grapes. Immediately below the garland, in the centre of the wall, there is represented a couch, on which a male figure reclines, with the left elbow resting upon a cushion ; in the right hand, which is elevated, it holds a bunch of grapes. This figure, which is clothed in a rose-coloured girdled tunic, is enveloped, up to the middle of the body, in a yellow-coloured cloth ; near the pillow is a little three-legged side-table. M. ashik's description of the frescoes. 39 on which lies some round object, resembling a pie or bread ; before the couch is a stool ; further on, on the right side, is an attendant in a short Grecian tunic, with sleeves, and of a pale grey colour, in half-boots, and with a narrow yellow under-garment. In the right hand, which is extended towards the reclining figure, there is a cup, probably containing some liquid, poured out from a vessel which a servant holds in the left hand. Immediately behind these last are three male figures, almost in the same position, enveloped in mantles, in short under-garments of different colours, and in half-boots : further on is an olive-branch. On the left side of the recumbent figure is seen a group of eight women, in long tunics, and different coloured mantles ; three of the women are represented sitting, with stools under their feet. The first female figure occupies the principal place, sitting in a large arm-chair with four legs. Their costume consists of a long tunic, of a yellow colour, and a white peplum. " Under the socle the width is ten and a half inches. On the left side there are six horsemen, armed with spears, rushing upon their enemies. All these warriors are bareheaded, in pale grey doublets, red under-garments, and half-boots. Under the caftan appears what resembles a leathern cuirass, of a blue colour. The horses are without saddles, with bridles only. On the right side there are five horsemen, also galloping, with spears ; between these two groups, three warriors, slain, are lying upon the ground ; two of them are overthrown, together with their horses ; the third is likewise thrown from his horse ; his cap is fallen from his head, and lies by the body. The position of this group, and the costume of the warriors, is very striking. The first and third of the five horsemen are clothed in long, girded, sleeveless Greek tunics, of a pale grey colour, with squares ; on their heads are pointed caps, with ear-pieces, and with tufts on the top ; the three remaining horsemen have, like the three who are slain, sleeveless tunics of a yellow colour. Over the tunics they wear armour, completely covering the breast; the 40 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. under-garments are of a red colour ; they have boots ; on the heads of these warriors are pointed caps, with ear-pieces, but without tufts on the top. Two warriors, having long tunics and caps with tufts, are sitting on their horses [sideways], in the same manner as ladies in Europe in modem times." Mr. Eussell has so graphically delineated the almost sacrilegious destruction of the precious specimens of the fine arts deposited in the Kertch Museum, that I cannot resist the temptation of making the following quotation from his work : — " I must be permitted to express the sentiments of abhorrence which every civilized being must experience on surveying the scene of destruction and barbarous violence presented by this unfortunate town, and to protest against any imputation on account of the sacking of Kertch being attached to Englishmen, or to any British subject, with the exception of the Lieutenant - General, whose- apathy or neglect permitted the perpetration of disgraceful excesses. " "When the Eussian army, of about two thousand five hundred men, abandoned Kertch on the afternoon of our lauding, caravans of the inhabitants, with such pi-operty as they could collect, moved out after the soldiery. When the Allies entered the following morning, the population made their submission, and offered bread and salt to the conquerors, in accordance with the Eussian custom ; and they were assured that they would be protected, and their lives and property spared. Towards evening Turkish stragglers from the camp and others flocked in to the town, and perpetrated the most atrocious crimes. To pillage and wanton destruction they added violation and murder. The Tartars hailed the arrival of the Osmanli with delio[ht, and received them as liberators and as brethren, to whom they were bound by the ties of religion, of language, and of hatred to the Eussians. They led them from house to house, and pointed out as victims to their cupidity and lust those who had made themselves obnoxious to their ismorance or fanaticism. DESTRUCTION OF THE MUSEUM. 41 " On a remarkable conical hill at the back of the town are two buildings, one of which is said to mark the resting-place of Mithridates; the other is built after the model of the Parthenon. It has been used as a museum, and was full of cinerary urns, and of antique relics collected amid the ruins of the ancient Bosphor ; of statuary, and of the contents of Tumuli which were opened in the neighbourhood. The doors have been forced open, and the ancient Greek marbles and tablets which stood against the wall have been overturned. It is impossible to convey an idea of the scene within this place. " The museum was a single room, with glass vessels along the walls and niches for statuary, and rows of stands parallel to them, which once held the smaller antiquities. At the end opposite the door, a large ledge, about thirty feet from the ground, ran from side to side, and supported a great number of cinerary urns. It was reached by a winding staircase through one of the pillars at the end of the room. One might well wonder how the fury of a few men could effect such a prodigious amount of ruin in so short a time. The floor of the museum is covered for several inches in depth with the debris of broken glass, of vases, urns, statuary — the precious dust of their contents ; and charred bits of wood and bone mingled with the fresh splinters of the shelves, desks, and cases in which they had been preserved. Not a single thing that could be broken or burnt any smaller, had been exempt from reduction by hammer or fire. The cases and shelves were torn from the' walls ; the glass was smashed to atoms, and the statues pounded to pieces. It was not possible to do more than guess at what they had once contained. " On ascending the ledge on which the cinerary urns had been placed, the ruin was nearly as complete. There was scarcely an urn or earthen vessel of any kind unbroken — the work of destruction was complete. One sentry placed at the door would have prevented all this discreditable outrage. For all I know, the Tartars may have joined in the destruction 42 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. of the Museum, or the Turks may have heen the sole authors ; but the blame will no doubt be attached to the civilized states, whose officers and soldiers took the most active part in the operations against the enemy." I have only to add to this, from information communicated to me by an intelligent Eussian gentleman who had occupied the position of Procureur de Roi at Kertch for fifty years, that the collection thus wantonly destroyed was unique, and that not only were there beautiful specimens of the early and later Greek and Eoman periods to be seen there, but also some rare examples of the Scythian, such as never can be brought together again ; for the tombs do not now exist. Our army passed within stone-throw of the Museum, the building stood prominently forward in their path, and must have attracted the attention of every officer and man. Will this not serve to convince us of the necessity of having attached to every force proceeding on service, an officer especially instructed to receive, and guard from pillage and destruction, relics of antiquity, and other works of art and science which may be prized by the nation ? The " sack of Kertch" yielded rich booty to many. This city had become a favourite place of resort for the Eussian nobility, and was famous for the beauty and fashion of its inhabitants. It was a city of palaces, and was denominated the Brighton of the Crimea. It was the head-quarters of men and stores, and the great shipping port for the Circassian coast. Here were merchants from all parts of Europe and Asia, and their shops abounded with goods of the most costly description. Eelving on the forbearance hitherto shown by the Allies in sparing Odessa, they conceived that this mercantile port was also safe from attack. Parties therefore flocked to it from all quarters with their household goods, and the town was full to overflowing. The population now fled in dismay, lea\'ing their all to the mercy of the conquerors, or rather plunderers. Valuable plate and rich bijouterie fell into their hands. Traders who accompanied the fleet loaded ships with furniture, which SACK OF THE TOWN. 43 they sold at Constantinople at enormous prices. Redshid Pasha, who commanded the Turkish army, taking a peculiar fancy to pianofortes, shipped oflF on his own account half a score of them ; and the handsome doors and fittings of the better class of mansions, which had been brought all the way from Moscow, were torn down and put on board ship. But perhaps it was better that all this was done ; for the fires kindled in order to destroy the Government buildings and large stores of com, communicated with other parts, and no attempts having been made to check the progress of the flames, the city was in a short time a perfect ruin. The army re-embarked for Balaklava in June ; a small squadron and a few troops were left, to prevent the Russians from re-occupying the town, and five months afterwards, just as the winter was setting in, the Turkish Contingent took possession of the entire peninsula. 44 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTER III. COLONEL MUNROE'S EXCAVATIONS IN TIIE ANCIENT CHERSON— SCULPTURED BAS- RELIEFS— ANTIQUE SCULPTURES TRANSMITTED TO THE BRITISH MUSEUM. In a field of such interest, from its associations and historical character, it will naturally be expected that every favourable opportunity would be seized to prosecute investigation into its former history. The inquiries of Colonel Munroe, of the 39th Regiment, have brought to light some interesting remains from the former Greek city of Cherson ; where he was stationed with the army. And it was my good fortune to discover several relics of much interest on the site once occupied by the capital of the colony, on the Cimmerian Bosphorus, where I was stationed for eight months — viz., from October, 1855, till June, 1856. The discovery made near the head-quarters camp before Sebastopol is thus graphically related in one of the able letters of the Times correspondent : — " All about the plateau of the Chersonese, you find traces of old buildings, scattered about in various directions, and easily recognisable from the number of large cut stones lying about. One of these heaps, just on the top of the Col de Balaklava, a few hundred yards from the English head-quarters, must have struck every one last year, coming up from Balaklava to the plateau. During the winter, however, French cavalry was encamped near the spot, and the consequence was that most of the stones which were lying above ground were taken away for hut and kitchen building, and thus were scattered about, leaving no mark on the place where they had been taken from. On October 26th, a party of the 4th Foot was collecting stones in that place, and one of the men found an old coin, which he brought to his officer, Lieutenant Nash ; COLONEL MUNROES EXCAVATIONS. 45 who, in his turn, told the thing to Captain Patton, of the same reoiment. This latter went up with the coin to Colonel Munroe, of the 39th; who, being himself an antiquary-, took up the matter, and received permission from head-quarters to employ every day fifty men of his regiment in excavating these ruins. The result richly repaid the labour, and a circular building, about thirty feet in diameter, with the traces of two lateral lines of walls — one running in a southerly, the other in an easterly direction — have been laid open. The circular building is divided from north to south by a wall; in the eastern part of the semicircle thus formed is the door, which faces south, and a kind of well, narrow at the mouth, and then expanding as it descends lower down ; opposite to it is a large slab, forming a parallelogram of about eight feet by four, standing upright, and surrounded by a circular wall of small stones, different in construction from the rest of the building, which is composed of the regularly-cut stones of Greek architecture. But the most curious thing in this compartment is a slab horizontally imbedded in the corner formed by the north side of the outside wall and the partition wall. The edges of it are somewhat higher than the middle, and on the end of the slab which faces the interior a kind of gutter is cut out, as if to facilitate the running down of fluid. A similar stone is on the other side of the partition-wall, only having the gutter in a right angle with that of the slab in the first compartment. The second compartment itself is divided from east to west by a wall, on both sides of which the whole remaining space is filled with the remains of thu-teen large circular earthen vases, of about four feet in diameter. They are all broken to pieces, and only held by adhering to the earth in which they lie. They must have been of an amphora shape, narrow at the mouth, as one can see from the fragments of ed^es which have been dug out. On the sides of some there are triangular rivets of lead, very likely old repairs ; two of the vases are double, one inside the other. Neither the parts of the buildings yet laid open, nor the different objects 46 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. found in the rubbish, throw much light on the nature of the building. The objects found consist of eight or ten brass coins, all of the same kind, marked on both sides with what looks like a cross, with the points split and inclining downwards ; a heap of remains of jars, on a piece of which I thought I recognised Arabic characters : some bones of animals, and the figure of a man from the legs downwards. Colonel Munroe thinks it may be a Grecian temple ; that the earthen jars were there to receive the blood of the victims, which flowed in from the two slabs, which he supposes to be the altars where the sacrifice was performed. I cannot help thinking it resembles more the circular tower of a fortress with the well, which resembles exactly the wells abounding in the neighbourhood of Eupatoria, and still in use. Nearly at the head of every ravine leading down from the upper part of the plateau of the Chersonese towards the sea or the harbour of Sebastopol you can see traces of buildings, with the same kind of square stones ; and there are often two corresponding ones, as is the case on the spot where the excavation has taken place. On the opposite side, just below the French head-quarters, there is another such heap of ruins as I remember to have seen on the site of the excavation last year, which contains very likely a similar building. Between the two, in the hollow formed by the beginning of the ravine, which is no other than the ravine leading to the Dockyard Creek, is a well, which ought to be perhaps brought into connection with the two buildings. Of course, it is only by further excavations that the question can be decided. The earthen jars seem the greatest puzzle, unless one perhaps supposes them to have been magazines for grain, which are even now not uncommon in some parts of the East." The sculptured marbles and bas-reliefs are commonly figures in basso-relievo, with an inscription, either in marble or sandstone of the country. They are chiefly sepulchral, and distinguishable into three kinds. 1st. Contains a female figure in a long robe, with a child. 2nd. A man on horseback, with a child standing by him. SCULPTURED MARBLES. 4/ 3rd. A man lying on a kind of bed or couch, with a woman and a child, one on each side of him. The woman is generally represented in a standing posture, with her hands under the fore part of her garment, or leaning against an altar, or sitting on a stone wiping her eyes as in extreme gi-ief. The man is sometimes represented on a horse in slow motion, with the bridle in his hand, sometimes in warlike attire. Or he is seen leaning on his left arm on a couch, and holds a garland in his right hand, which is extended. The child frequently holds in its two hands something like a cinerary urn. 4th. Woman with one or more children, and attendants waiting on them. These representations may relate to certain ceremonies practised at funerals, the inscriptions thereon denoting usually the name of the party w^ith the words, " Peace be to him," appended. The attention of that great sculptor, the late Sir Eichard Westmacott, was early attracted to the favourable opportunity which the occupation of the Crimea by the Allied armies afforded of securing to England such remains as had escaped destruction in the Museum at Kertch, and his son, who commanded one of the Eegiments of Infantry in the Turkish Contingent, warmly seconded his laudable desires. ]\Iajor Westmacott lost no time in bringing the subject to the notice of General Vivian, then in command at Kertch. But the General being unable to act on his own responsibility, a reference was made to the War Minister. Lord Panmure pi-omptly issued orders to secure everything of interest, and placed tonnage at the disposal of the General to convey them to EntJ-land. On this the following order was issued : — " In consequence of a communication from the War Department, directing the removal to England of any sculptured marbles or valuable relics that have escaped demolition in Kertch, and are worthy of being placed in the British Museum, the Lieutenant -General has appointed Dr. McPherson, Major Crease, and Major Westmacott, a committee to decide on the value of such relics as may be remaining." 48 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. The following specimens of antique sculpture were selected and ti-ansmitted to the British Museum by the committee. After which their joint operations under official authority came to a close : — 1. Two Figures on Horseback, a Person of Rank and Attendant. 2. Recumbent Figure, with Religious Ceremony below. 3. Two Figures, one sitting and one recumbent, with Attendants. 4. Part of a Recumbent Figure ; Religious or Funereal Ceremony below ; Third Compartment — Armed Guards with Shields and Spears. .5. Two Figures on Horseback. 6. Sitting Female Figure, with Attendant. SCULPTURES IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 49 7. Female Figure, with Attendant. 8. Male Figure, with Attendant. 9- Male Figure on Horseback (with Greek Inscription). 10. Fragment of Female Figure. 11. The Meeting of two Female Figures of Distinction, with Flowing Drapery. 12. Fragments of Female Figure. 13. Figure of Person of Consequence, seated in a State Chair, with Attendants in waiting. 14. A Female Figure, with Arm extended, apparently taking leave OF Two Armed Men. 15. Male Figure, seated in State, evidently receiving Intelligence FROM Armed Mounted Men, the Result probably of some Engagement. 16. Fragment of Figure on Horseback, armed with Scythian Bow AND Qun-ER — Weapons not usually represented on Grecian Bas-Eeliefs. 17- Fragments — Two Female Figures and Child. 18. Figure on Horseback. H 50 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. 19- Handsome Scroll, very perfect. 20. Man on Horseback, with Flowing Garments. 21. Male and Female Figure. 22. Marble Scroll. 23. Female Figure and Child (with Greek Inscription). 24. Scroll, very ornamental. 25. Female Figure and Two Children. 26. Male Figure taking leave of a Female accompanied by a Child. 27. Similar Subject to No. 27. 28. Fragment of the Capital of a Column. 29. Slab with Greek Inscription. 30. A Figure seated in State, with Attendant. 31. Part of a Female Figure leaning on a Column, with Attendant. 32. Scroll. 33. Handsome Scroll. 34. Marble Slab, with Two Tritons ; one with Wings, the other carrying a Trident in his Left Hand. A small Dolphin represented between the Figures. 35. Fragment of Female Figure, with Attendant. SCULPTURES IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 51 36. Part of a Figure. 37- Male Figure, with Attendant. 38. Female Figure reclining, her Head upon a Pillow, with Attendant. 39. Fragment of Greek Moulding, f] 40. Ornament. 41. Ditto. 42. Fragment of Female Figure. 43. ]\Ian in Armour on Horseback. 44. Man on Horseback, with Figure and Dog following. 45. Female Figure in Chair of State, with Attendant. 46 and 47. Colossal Figures in White Marble of Lion and Lioness. The Lion was the symbolical type of Phanagoria, as the Griffin was emblematical of Panticapaeum. These figures had been removed by the 52 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. Genoese from Phanagoria (the marble lion being the device of Genoa also) to Kaffa, along with other relics of antiquity, during her days of prosperity. When the Russians had erected the Museum at Kertch, they desired to collect in this spot the treasures of art scattered over the country. The ship conveying the lions and other sculptures struck on a sand-bank on entering the Bay of Kertch and sunk. Thirteen years afterwards the nets of some fishermen became entangled amongst these sculptures, and the lion and lioness were then fished up. Their weather-beaten countenances clearly indicate the eflfect of time and exposure to the elements ; but they have reached a comfortable haven at last. THE MODERN TOWN. 53 CHAPTER IV. SITE OF THE MODERN TOWN OF KERTCH - NUMBER AND POSITION OF THE TUMULI -THEm ORIGIN - OPENING OF THE FIRST TUMULUS -ITS STRUCTURE AND CONTENTS. The duration and intensity of the frost having rendered the soil as hard as rock, to a depth of many feet, no excavations could he proceeded with until the month of March. The modern town of Kertch (Vide Embellished Title) has been built on a semicircular bay, immediately beneath the position on which the ancient city of Panticapajum stood, and evidently, considerably below what was then the high water mark in the bay. Around the city on every side, for a distance of about two miles, the earth has been again and again turned over in search of antiquities; and there is scarcely a square yard that has escaped examination. It is in fact a succession of pits, from ten to fifteen feet deep, terminating usually in a stone tomb; on reaching which the explorer appears to have considered his researches on this spot completed, and passed on to another. The enormous quantity of Tumuli round this city forms one of the distinguishing features of the place. They abound chiefly within the second vallum; kw or none being found where the Dorian colonists of Heraclea dwelt: except near Simpheropol— the supposed residence of Scilurus. These Tumuli, therefore, are essentially of Scythian and Milesian structure. It is also remarkable that on the plains around Phanagoria on the Asiatic side, colonized by the same people— who, on their arrival, came in contact with the Scythians— the country is covered with them. It would be curious to inquire what is the reason of the Tumulus 54 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. being peculiar to the Ionic race. Does it arise from their differing with the Dorians in their religious ideas respecting their dead? Or, must we seek for an explanation of the custom in the fact of the former having come in contact with a pastoral and agricultural ti'ibe, whose mode of life and sepidture they adopted, while the latter encountered the savage and barbarous Tauri, who do not appear to have any peculiar mode of burial? The greater number of the Tumuli around the city, and many of those for miles beyond it, have been effectually searched. That first selected for examination was situated in a northerly direction, six miles from the town, towards Yenikale. Its circumference was three hundred and forty-six feet, and its height about eighty; and it presented no appearance of having ever been disturbed. Two parties of six men each were set to work, with directions to tunnel their way in at right angles with the other party; the one proceeding to the left, the other to the right. It was soon found that the labour was far more severe than we had calculated upon. The cold was still intense, and the distance the workmen had to go every morning and evening, retarded operations. The soil through which we had to pass was extremely firm, and masses of stone constantly retarded our advance. We arrived at the centre of the Tumulus without finding anything but a few amphorse standing upright. These had evidently been placed there entire, but they were now in fragments. The space in the centre was enlarged, and a descent was made to a depth of seven feet, without making any discovery. Branching ofi" a little to the left, we came to the remains of large upright beams, occupying an oblong space. On removing a portion of the earth within this space, which was less firm than that surrounding it, and which had all the appearance of having fallen in from above, human and animal bones were discovered. That the support of the roof was of wood appeared evident, from the quantity of decayed <^ fMWZ ^^^ ikMwm^^ lied tv Smitli, Elder 2c CLondon.lSBZ GOLD ORNAMENTS DEPOSITED IN AN URN. 55 fibre ; underneath which were fragments of an antique urn, having dark fio:ures on a cream-coloured OTound. In the midst of the ashes which had been in the urn, a female bust of pure gold, an inch in length, a twisted gold earring, and fragments of a pair of gold bracelets were discovered. ( Vide Plate 1 . ) I happened to have been absent on duty, inspecting the hospitals and divisions of the force stationed on the Bosphorus and on the shores of the sea of Marmora, when this discovery was made. The gold bracelets were reserved for me. The filigree workmanship on their edges is exquisite, and the ends are tipped with a representation of a bunch of grapes. The gold figure has passed into other hands ; but a faithful repre- sentation of it will be found in Plate 1. The face is purely Grecian, and the bust presents that of a beautiful woman with her hair thrown off the forehead, and encircled on the back of the head with a veil of light exquisite workmanship, so perfect that the butterfly or insect pattern is distinctly visible. A beautifully worked tiara in form of a crescent, with the Greek honeysuckle ornament embossed thereon, encircles the forehead, and a gem adorns each ear. A small ring at the crown of the head evidently points out that this very beautiful and chaste figure was worn as a pendant to a necklace or chain. The figure is probably that of the Tauric Diana, who had her temple in the Taurida, and who was worshipped in the colonies around; the peculiarly formed tiara being the distinguishing mark of the goddess. We now proceeded to examine the circumference of the mound to the north side. On this spot, in penetrating the surface, something resembling masonry had been struck ; and the excavators had not proceeded far, when a semicircular wall, formed of cut blocks of stone, each four feet long, two broad, and two in height, was exposed. The wall had a rough ashlar surface on the outside ; it extended about half way round the mound, and was beautifully constructed without any mortar. Its 56 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. highest part was about six feet ; it then dipped, and continued to descend as far as we explored it. Here and there, parallel with the wall, human bones, and crushed terra cotta urns in large numbers were removed ; and as the masonry was displaced, beads, fragments of glazed porcelain vessels, and red earthenware lacrymatories were discovered in small recesses in the wall. What was the purpose of this wall is difficult to determine. It could not have been raised with a view to support the mound, for it was placed on the upper or higher side of the slope on which the Tumulus stood. It appeared to me to have been detached altogether from the mound of earth, and constructed for a separate purpose entirely ; but what this was I could not trace. The labour of following up the wall as it dipped deeper into the earth on each side, was too great for me to continue it. A copper coin, in excellent preservation, with the head of Pan on the reverse, and the lion of Phanagoria on the obverse, was the only medal discovered in the course of our researches here. ( Vide Plate XII., Fig. 1.) 5 P5 4 m TUMULI OF THE FIVE BROTHERS. 57 CHAPTEE V. TUMULI OF "THE FIVE BROTHERS "—THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND CONTENTS. Towards the south-west, and between the town of Kertch and Cape St. Paul, is a cluster of Tumuli denominated " The Five Brothers." ( Vide Plate 2.) In size they are considerably larger than that last described, and the external appearance of three of them presented as uniform a shape as if they had been cast out of a mould. Into three of these, tunnels wei-e run ; the size of the passage being five feet in height, and two and a half in breadth, affording ample space for one man to work with the pick, another to shovel the earth into the wheelbarrow, and a third to wheel the latter to the outside, while a fourth examined the mould thrown out. The further we penetrated the darker of course it became, and the work was then carried on by candle-light. The labour was attended at all times with considerable danger; from the liability of a slip of earth taking place, and the difficulty of procuring planking to support the roof. The passage branched off in the interior to the right and left, or descended into deep pits. In one of the Tumuli a stone sarcophagus was found in the centre of the mound, considerably beneath the natural surface. Although there was no external appearance of a previous search ha\'ing been made, there now remained no doubt on the subject ; for traces of the perpendicular shaft by which the tomb had been arrived at were evident, and animal and human bones, with portions of a wood coffin, were heaped up in one corner. In the second Tumulus, which we also found had been similarly searched, a stone tomb, eight feet by five, was found beneath the natural 58 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. surface of the ground. The roof was formed of slabs resting on and projecting beyond each other, supported on a niche cut out of the side wall : a most simple, efficient, and durable construction. The third was quite a mountain. After much labour — for the mound was chiefly composed of large masses of stone heaped one upon the other, sloping downwards as we proceeded with our shaft — we reached the roof of an arched vault. Descending on the side of this, an entrance was forced. There being no indication of any previous examination into this tomb, our expectations of reaping an abundant reward for our toil were, as a matter of course, raised to a high pitch. But our mortification and disappointment were excessive, when by the dim light of the candle reflected on the bright polished walls, we discerned in the roof, opposite to that by which we entered, an aperture in the masonry sufficiently large to admit a man. There were two chambers ; the interior one vaulted, ten feet long, eight broad, and eight and a half in height. The roof exhibited the finest turned arch imaginable, having the whiteness of the purest marble. The stones on the sides were all square, perfect in their form, of the most admirable masonry, and put together without cement. The material of which the masonry consisted was the white crumbling limestone, filled with fragments of shell, such as the country now affords. The skill used in the construction of this tomb was evident ; and with the exception of the two apertures by which the entrance was effected, the work was perfectly entire. The contents had all been removed, and the area was clear. A rude cross of this form was traced on the wall, apparently with the smoke of a candle or torch. In another enormous Tumulus examined, we discovered that the earth was merely heaped up on a natural peak of coral rag formed by huge boulders of stone. After making several ineffectual attempts to penetrate at the base, I had the earth removed from the upper portion, and found that about two-thirds from the summit, advantage appeared to have been taken P:,.'VrK , IIL C F.Keil dei.-^tiL'i KrllBT.f LiC Cas-tieS^liiftoi' B IE ® Sr m, WW I?)F U A =. i^H 1-:.: ' lK Elder BRONZE HYDRIA. 59 of a natural separation in the hill. This was cased round with masonry ; but the roof, which was formed of wood, had fallen in. Portions of carved ivory which appeared to have been inlaid in wood {Vide Plate 1), great numbers of coarse unglazed terra cotta vases of rude workmanship crushed by the superincumbent earth, and a fine Greek Hydria of bronze ( Vide Plate 3), were found here ; also the distorted bones of a deformed adult, whose curved and united vertebral column marked him as a hunchback. This bronze Hydria, when discovered, stood as entire as is represented in the Plate. The superincumbent earth, as I have said, had fallen in, and on this being removed, the Hydria broke down. Two of the handles only have reached me. They are both alike, as shown in the accompanying woodcut. A third, having, I am informed, a figure of Victory on one end, and that of a Medusa on the other, has been retained by a gentleman then in charge of the work. The last Tumulus explored was close to the position where the Allied forces effected a landing, seven miles removed from Kertch. It was composed entirely of sand, and, compared to the others, it was comparatively an easy matter to penetrate into it. Shafts were run into the centre of this mound and made to branch off in every direction, and descents formed. It was evident that the work was artificial, but we reached nothing which would denote its sepulchral character. Although no large amount of success attended my researches amongst the Tumuli, still my labours proved deeply interesting. The successive layers of earth by which these huge mounds have been formed, establish, beyond a doubt, the fact that the heap was raised, as tradition assigns, at successive dates. We were fortunate, moreover, in our selections, inasmuch as each of those opened have presented to us distinct varieties, either in the construction of the tomb or the mode of sepulture. 60 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTER VI. TUMULI EXPLORED BY TIIE EUSSLVN GOVERNMENT— ENORMOUS TUMULUS DENOm- NATED THE GOLDEN MOUNTAIN— ITS REPUTED TREASURES. Amongst the numerous Tumuli explored by the Eussian Government, there is considerable variety in the style and construction of the vaults or chambers exposed. Not far from the old road to Theodosia, for a distance of two miles from Mons Mithridates, there is a continuous succession of ascents, of an artificial character, in a north-westerly direction. These terminate in an enormous Tumulus, placed on the crest of the mountain, four hundred and twenty-three feet above the level of the sea. It differs from all others in the neighbourhood, being walled from top to bottom like a Cyclopean monument. It is cased on its exterior, like the P}Tamids, with large blocks of stone — cubes of three or four feet placed without cement or mortar. This monument, perhaps unique of its kind, from its size and structure, had been, at all times, the object of a number of mysterious legends ; and ancient traditions spoke of immense treasures hidden within. It was known by the name of Altyn-obo, or the Golden Mountain. In 1832, after immense labour, an entrance was effected into a gallery constructed of layers of worked stone, sixty feet in length and ten in height, roofed in the Egj^tian style, and terminating in a circular tower twenty-five feet high and twenty feet in diameter ; the floor of this tower being ten feet below that of the gallery. Two other tombs, somewhat similar in structure, were exposed here by the Kussians ; but the contents of them had all been removed by the Genoese. Although the upper portion of this wonderful mountain has been examined, by far the greater portion, towards the base, remains yet to TUMULUS OF THE HILL OF CINDERS. 61 be searched; and therein, it is more than probable, will be found hidden caverns. We could do no more than satisfy oiu'selves of the artificial nature of its structure, on the slope of the hill, removed some two hundred feet from the present opening. The wealth of a Rothschild would be necessary to carry out an effectual examination of this hill ; and, if there be any truth in the traditions of the country, there have been many wilder speculations ; for it is asserted that it contains an immense treasure, guarded by a virgin who spends her time in lamentations. It is supposed that the mother of Mithridates was originally laid in a tomb on this spot ; the three chambers, which have been exposed by the Russian Government, being the resting-place of members of her family. There is a spur of the Golden Mountain, veering south, called by the Tartars, Kouloba or the Hill of Cinders, on which is a Tumulus; and some Russian soldiers carrying away stones, discovered a vestibule partially closed. Two savans were commissioned by the Governor of Kertch to enter alone and take an inventory of the contents. An immense crowd soon besieged the approaches, which were well guarded by soldiers. The tomb is nearly a square, and both it and the gallery leading to it are 62 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. arched in the Egyptian style. The tomb itself is dome-shaped, raised by circular layers of stone each one projecting beyond that beneath it ; the layers forming the cupola commence six feet from the floor, each circle decreasing in its diameter until the dome is capped by a single stone about forty feet from the base. The passage leading to this chamber is constructed in a similar manner, the stones on either side overlapping each other, and forming a gallery one hundred and twenty feet long, eight broad, and thirty feet high ; the space thus gradually contracts as the side walls ascend, imtil it terminates in one single stone. The exposed surfaces of the stones are in " rough ashlar," and no cement has been used throughout. More than two-thirds of each block of stone rests on that immediately beneath ; the remainder projects, and thus decreases the space. The support of the superincumbent earth on the sides adds to the strength and security of the building, and the probability therefore is, that the formation of the mound progressed with the construction of the masonry. The floor had a stone pavement, and was occupied by a sarcophagus of yew wood, formed of thick beams, and divided into two compartments. In one compartment was the body of a man of large stature, the thigh bone being seventeen and a half inches long. The scull was extremely thick. On his brow was the remains of a mitra or Persian cap, having two plates of gold ornamented with festoons and griffins (the emblem of Panticapaium), with leaves and arabesques attached. Around the neck was a necklace of massive gold, in the form of an open ring, and twisted like a cord ; at each end was the flgure of a Scythian on horseback, and the extremities were enamelled with blue and green. On the right arm, above the elbow, was a bracelet of gold, adorned with reliefs. Below the elbow were two other bracelets in electrum (a mixture of gold and silver) ; a third pair of open bracelets encircled the wrists, and terminated in Persian winged sphinxes, the claws of which held the thick thread of gold which served to close the bracelet. Placed at the feet were a multitude of little sharp flints piled up. A SARCOPHAGUS AND ITS CONTENTS. 63 In Scythian mourning, we have seen that it was the custom to cut the face and the rest of the hody with knives or flints, which were then placed in the tomb as a mark of grief. In a narrow compartment of the sarcophagus were placed images of the gods and the arms of the king. First, his iron sword, the handle of which, covered with leaves of gold, was adorned with figures of hares and foxes embossed on the gold. Beside the sword lay the Cossack whip, adorned with a leaf of gold. Above it was the shield, of fine gold, the thickness of a five franc piece ; and its shape showed that it was principally a protection for the shoulder, and fitted to the arm : its weight was one and a half pounds. The shield was divided into twelve compartments, on which were chiselled dolphins and other fishes, and masks imitating the head of Medusa, alternating with faces having pointed beards, flies, and heads of sea-horses. The bow and its wooden case were reduced to dust, and there only remained the plate in electrum which ornamented the quiver. It was adorned with embossed work representing a wild goat seized by a tiger, and a deer attacked in front by the Griffin of Panticapajum and behind by the Lion of Phanagoria. The deer was the emblem of the town of Diana — which was Cherson. A sea-horse flUed the wider part of the plate, and a mask the other extremity. Above the tail of the tiger was the Greek word nOPNAXO engraven on the metal; probably the name of the artist. Among these arms was found one boot in bronze; the fellow to it was on the right of the king, opposite the head. In the same compartment were five statuettes in electrum ; one group represented two Scythians embracing, the one tightly holds a horn, the other a purse in his right hand ; and there was likewise the Scythian Hercules among these divinities. Around the sarcophagus, on the pavement, were the objects which completed the furniture of the tomb ; among which nothing had been forgotten that could contribute to the material wants of life. At the feet were placed three large cauldrons of bronze. These evidently had 64 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. been often on the fire, and used for cooking, as there was a thick coat of soot still on them, and the interior was filled with mutton bones : there was another oblong vase near the door filled in the same manner. After the kitchen of the king came his service of wine and drinking cups, deposited in four clay amphorae upright against the wall. On the handle of one was inscribed 6A2I, and below APETQN, and in the midst was a fish. These had been filled with the wine of Thasos ; which, to judge from the quantity of amphorae found in the tombs bearing this name, was the favourite kind of wine. Two large crateres were placed near the amphorae, for water : for the Scythians always drank wine mixed with water ; one was of silver, nearly eighteen inches in diameter, and contained four drinking cups of the same metal. The second crater, of bronze, contained also four silver drinking cups. Some of these were ornamented with chasing, representing the animals, birds, and fish of the Black Sea and the Cimmerian Bosphorus. Beyond the drinking cups was the armoury of the king, consisting of two lances and several bundles of arrows ; these last had triangular points, in bronze, with three barbs, and are similar to those found in Scythian monuments in Southern Russia. SKELETON A\D ORNAMENTS OF A QUEEN. ' 65 CHAPTE-R VII. SKELETON OF A QUEEN — DESCRIPTION OF HER ORNAMENTS — VASE OF ELECTRUM — GOLDEN FRAGMENTS OF THE KING'S VESTMENTS — SKELETONS OF HIS SERVjVNT AND HORSE— SUBTERRANEAN TOMB— STONE QUARRY— REPTILES AND VENOMOUS INSECTS. Between the arrows and the sarcophagus there appeared a second skeleton, laid on the pavement and covered with earth; hut adorned so richly that it was impossible not to recognise it as the wife of the king, who thus accompanied him to his last resting place. She was laid in the same direction as the king, and wore on her forehead a mitre terminating in a plate of electrum. This plate was highly ornamented with a group of four women in Greek costume sitting in the midst of garlands of lotus flowers, the stalks of which form seats with backs. The bottom of the mitre was encircled with a diadem of gold, adorned all round with enamelled rosettes. The queen wore on her neck, like the king, a gold necklace with the ends moveable; the extremities being formed of couchant lions. She had on besides another necklace of gold filigree, to which were suspended small chains supporting little bottles of fine gold. Five medallions of exquisite workmanship and different sizes rested on her bosom, and were fastened together by small chains and bottles, enamelled green and blue. At the feet of the skeleton was a magnificent vase of electrum, which probably contained perfumes. It was exquisitely chased with four successive groups representing episodes in the same history. In the first the king is seated listening attentively to the report of a warrior, who, armed with lance and buckler, kneels to the kinff. The next fio-ure, with his back to the messenger, kneels on one knee and is occupied in 66 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. bending a bow. They are preparing for war. In the third group the war is supposed to have taken place, and the king has been badly wounded. He is recognised in a half sitting, half kneeling figure, from whom the Scythian magus is extracting a tooth : and on examining the scull in the sarcophagus, the lower jaw presented a fracture which had carried away several teeth. A fourth episode represents the king wounded in the leg, and a warrior fomenting it. On attentively examining the interior of the tomb, an infinity of embossed gold plates or scales were found at the foot of the walls. The rich vestments of the king, to which these scales had been attached as defensive armour, had been hung up on pegs of wood; but the pegs and the clothes had fallen, and were become a mass of dust. By the side of the body of the queen were found two golden bracelets, with bas-reUefs in two ranges — that is to say, six figures on each bracelet. Around the head were disposed six knives with handles of ivory, a seventh knife with a gold handle, and a bronze mirror with a handle of gold. The king's servant was stretched across the tomb, and close to him were the bones of a horse. Among the things taken out of the tomb were several highly wrought pieces of wood which belonged to musical instruments — the only thing wanting to complete the establishment. The two savans, having been occupied the whole day, departed in the evening, leaving two sentries to guard the entrance, with orders to let no one pass ; but the crowd was so great that the sentinels could not keep them back. On raising the pavement, a second tomb was discovered below, much richer than the first. From this, masses of gold— to the extent, it was said, of 120 lbs. weight of gold jewellery— were extracted; of which Government obtained 15 lbs., and the rest was dispersed. This tomb was probably that of Leucon — the friend of the Athenians. It was certainly anterior in date to Mithridates. The letter p ( P ) is STONE QUARKIES REPTILES AND INSECTS. Qj often repeated on the reliefs, and is written with one side shorter than the other— a form which quite disappears before the time of that great monarch. There is besides no sign of the influence of Rome in any part of the tomb. Its construction is very ancient, and a portion of the ceiling was propped up by posts: which is not the case in the more recent tombs. The ground surrounding these Tumuli is usually a level flat; there being seldom any hollow or depression indicating that the earth which enters into the formation of the heap had been taken from its immediate vicinity. The stone which forms the tombs must have been brought from a series of extensive underground quarries which are seen around Kertch. Not far from that just described is a stratum of limestone, hewn in a semicircular manner, so as to present an area whose sides were thirty feet in perpendicular height. On closely inspecting the face of this stratum, and removing the moss and mould which had formed on the rock, the mode adopted in remo\'ing the stone attracted attention. A hole of about an inch in cir- cumference was at first bored into the rock ; the soft nature of the stone appearing to admit of this being easily done. Into this hole a narrow saw was introduced, and a flag of the exact dimensions required at once sawn out. In the middle of the area above alluded to is a deep narrow well hewTi out of the solid rock. The depth to the water was at least fifty feet, without including the further depth of the well. When examining this well, a Tartar shepherd assured us that the shaft to the water was a cylinder of marble buried in the soil. The Tartars use these subterranean quarries as pens for their sheep and goats. Large flocks of martens and swallows have taken possession of the upper parts of these tombs. The former build their nests in little chambers constructed in the earth without, and the latter usually within the tombs. These explored vaults seemed to be alive with a species of toad which crawls up the perpendicular sides of the tombs. They are very apt to spring upon one's face, or creep up the trousers, and glue their clammy toes to one's skin. The reptile is smaller and more active than the common toad ; 68 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. and its smooth skin is covered with beautiful round spots, which lessen the horror of beholding, in such abundance, an animal against whom all mankind seem to entertain a natural antipathy, and which Milton makes the abode of the infernal spirits :■ — " Him there they found Squat like a toad." But there are insects which infest these tombs of a more venomous nature than the toad. The worst of these is the tarantula (Fig. 1) — a description of spider which attains to a large size. It runs along with great rapidity, and, from its peculiar colour, appears and disappears in a wonderful manner. Its legs are covered with hair, and its mouth is in the shape of large pincers, resembling a lobster's claws. The bite of this venomous insect of the Crimea is always attended with danger; and Fig. I. Fig. 3. Fig. 2. it is asserted that that of the yellow insect has been known to prove fatal. The scorpion (Fig. 2) and the centipede (Fig. 3), both terrible on account of their bites, are also sometimes seen. THE MUSEUM — CITY OF PANTICAPJEUM. 69 CHAPTER VIII. THE JIUSEUU OF KERTCH— AETIEICIAi CHAKACTER OF THE Hn.L— REMAINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF PANTICAP^UM — ROCK CHAMBER— A LIVING OCCUPANT OF A TOMB. Having laboured at the Tumuli assiduously for a period of two months, the workmen were withdrawn, and explorations commenced on that undulating ridge which extends from the Masoleum, or Mons Mithridates, to the Altyn Oho, or the Tumuli d'Or. These constitute the two most elevated points in this neighbourhood. About a fourth part of the upper face of the former has been removed, and the Museum is erected there. It is an exact copy of the Temple of Theseus, at Athens : it had a flight of magnificent steps leading up to it ; but now, these are all destroyed. The spot where this building stands is of artificial construction, as is plainly seen on the scarp of the removed portion of the mound. I ran tunnels into this hill in three different places behind the building, and on a level with it ; and in each, after proceeding from five to fifteen feet, the natural clay hill, having successive strata of mica intermixed, was reached. The appearance of the upper surface of the olay was very peculiar. It was precipitous, smoothed and polished, as if the refuse and debris which had entered into the artificial structure of the hni to such an enormous thickness, had been cast from the summit. The city of Panticapaeum stood towards the north and west of this moimtain, and most probably the rubbish of the city was thrown from this height into the sea, until the heap reached the summit. The substances which enter into the superficial structure of this hill are exactly such as we shoidd expect to find in such a heap. 70 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. There is little or no appearance of the ancient city on the surface of the soil ; which, to a depth of from five to thirty feet in a circumference of about four miles, is composed of a mass of broken pottery and debris of every description — an accumulation of successive ages, without any convulsion of nature. Our first explorations in the site of the old city brought us in contact with buried houses, having walls of prodigious strength. Were these walls on the surface, it would require Herculean labour to displace the masonry ; but when they had to be arrived at by means of a descent into the earth of barely sufficient space to admit one man to work with a pick-axe in a doubled-up and cramped position, with another immediately behind him remo\ing the earth with his shovel, it will be allowed that it was no easy matter to displace a stone out of position. We followed on the sides of the walls, and, when able to do so, removed a stone ; but the labour was far beyond any strength I could bring to bear on it. Many interesting remains were discovered : such as handles of amphorae, with inscriptions and designs thereon, fragments of beautiful patterns of terra cotta, bright polished plaster, and bronze coins. The workmen were then placed on the sides of rocks protruding out of the soil. These had been at one time coral rag peaks, now in a great measure concealed and buried by the vast accumulations of earth heaped upon them. On one occasion an extensive rock chamber was exposed — the abode most probably of the Tauric aborigines of the country. It was warm and dry. A rude seat or couch was hewn out of the side, and there were small recesses in the rock. The entrance was partly artificial, and partly natural ; small, and capable of being closed by matting or otherwise. There was a quantity of earth and rubbish within ; which was not removed, as there appeared no object to be gained in doing so. The rubbish gave cover to human remains, but no relic was discovered along with these. On entering another rocky chamber, the narrow entrance to which had LniXG OCCUPANT OF A TOMB. /I been exposed with a good deal of labour, we were greeted with a fierce growl which caused us to retreat speedily; and it was some time before we mustered resolution to enter. The superstitious workmen believed that the evil one himself held possession of the tenebrious cell ; and, pointing to the human bones which we had removed, they shook their heads, and said that they considered their work was ominous of evil. Gaining courage, we began by pitching stones into the cavern, which appeared to extend many yards under the rock. The growls became fiercer and fiercer. We were just about to light a fire, in order to force the animal to resion his abode and permit us to inspect it, when there was a noise like a scufile and a rush, which made us all a second time take to our heels. The cause of our alarm was now ascertained, by a large wolf-dog makino- its appearance from the other side of the hill, barking furiously at us. After it had been assailed on all hands with stones, we entered. The cavern was nearly a natural one, formed by an open space between two rocks; and there was an extensive fissure running back, at the end of which we could trace a ray of daylight. Through this fissure the dog had passed in. In a recess, on one side, we found four beautiful puppies ; one of which was placed amongst the other relics from the tombs, but it came to an untimely end : my Greek servant, dissatisfied with the amount of bucksheesh handed to him on parting, revenged himself on me by dropping little " Pluto " into the sea, with a stone tied round his neck. There is not, I believe, a more vindictive race than the modern Greek : a real or imaginary ofience rankles in his breast until an opportunity occurs to retaliate. I doubt not, had this fellow been entrusted with a child, he would have as calmly consigned it to the deep as he did the puppy. On removing the earth off the sides of a rock, the apex only of which was perceptible, we struck upon a recess chiselled out of the rock, measuring ten feet by five. Following this we arrived at what appeared to have been a couch, formed by two stones placed together, with an elevation for the 72 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. head to rest upon. On each side of and behind this seat small recesses were visible on the face of the rock, evidently chiselled out ; possibly for the purpose of placing lights or burning incense. Some twelve feet deeper we came to human remains ; and for five days the workmen turned out of this pit nothing but human bones. How far deeper these would have been found it is impossible to say, for we ceased our explorations here ; feeling satisfied, from the appearance of the bones, that they must all have been buried there about the same period : the result probably of some great engagement, for many of the skulls and long bones exhibited fractures and injuries. The marks on the rock indicated that an assemblage or feast was held on the spot; probably in commemoration of the event. Not far from this spot we discovered portions of a subterranean conduit for conveying water towards the Acropolis. It was formed of two concave tiles, one resting on the other. One of these, having Greek letters stamped thereon, as represented in the adjoining woodcut, we secured. A series of stone tombs were discovered at a depth varying from eight to twelve feet below the surface of the ground. ( Vide Frontispiece.) The roof and sides were composed of two or three slabs of sandstone about four inches thick ; the slab entering into the formation of the floor being considerably thicker. Amphorse of baked clay, usually found crushed AMPHORA IN THE STONE TOMBS. 73 by the superincumbent earth, and marked with one of the following mystic symbols. First, Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, + -I- ^ G D O were sometimes found at the head of the tomb ; and on the top was occasionally a sepulchral lamp. Each of these stone tombs contained the bones of one person only, and there was seldom anv ornament within ; but it was not unusual to find the remains in one spot, and the relic in another. On one occasion we arrived at a spot where five stone tombs were placed in close contact, around or within which there was no ornament or relic ; but in a spot contiguous, a large ornamented unglazed vase of baked clay, and five cups of glass — one within the other — were discovered, by some men employed under Major Campbell, of Her Majesty's 71st Regiment, in making a collection for the United Ser\dce Museum, in a neatly formed recess in the earth prepared for them. Doubtless these amphorse contained wine, when originally placed there ; for the lees or scoriae of the wine still encrusted the inside, and had accumulated in considerable quantities at the bottom, as the fluid portion dried up. The fixed acid in the deposit was proved to be still present, on the application of litmus paper, by a gentleman at the late meeting of the British Association held at Cheltenham — an extraordinary fact, after so great a lapse of time. The accompanpng woodcut represents an imglazed vase with four handles, discovered in one of these stone tombs. The inscription of the maker's name being written in black letters. The heaps of fragments of amphorse, and of glazed and painted vases, which the workmen were continually throwing out, displayed an endless 74 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. variety in style and beauty in construction. We repeatedly came upon large masses of masonry, foundations of buildings ; and, on one occasion, upon huge blocks of stone, resembling the foundation of a circular tower; but the means at our disposal did not admit of the removal of these stones : in fact, the very appearance of them caused us to abandon the spot. Mr. Stoddart, in an able paper published in the Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, states, " that the vessels to which those handles had belonged were not made at Athens, as had been supposed, but were rather imported in the course of trade from Cnidus, Ehodes, Thasos, and other places ; and that the stamps they bear contain the names, not of potters, but of EPONYMI, or of other magistrates." And, alluding to the appearance of lettered manubria in the Russian provinces along the Black Sea, he remarks : — " For the last half century it has been known that the sites of many Greek cities along the coasts of the Crimea and of the neighbouring districts are covered with broken pottery, and that they even yield occasionally entire vases. These are often the pointed diotcB of commerce, stamped in some cases with epigraphs found at Panticapaeum, Phanagoria, Tyria, situated on the Bay of the Dneister, Olbia, and as far as Taganrog : many of these manubria are stamped with a lotus-like flower, the same which appears continually on Rhodian money." He further points out that the vases so marked must have contained wine and other fluids imported fi*om Rhodes, and that oil was exported from Constantinople, until recent times, in amphorae made in Greece ; and that these vessels bear the names of potters and of astynomi. The symbols and inscriptions stamped on the handles discovered during our researches are represented in Plates 10 and 11. Many of these vessels may have been of local manufacture ; the Greek character alone appears in all the inscriptions. The series may conduct to ampler results, by establishing identity in formulae, in dialect, in emblems, and especially in the names of men and of months. When there are two names on a single specimen, one denotes that of the chief magistrate. AMPHORA HANDLES. 75 the second that of the potter, or the month in which the vase was formed. • The practice followed at Rhodes and Cnidus of legalizing their diotce, precisely as they legalized their coinage, with what may be considered their state seal — since it bore the name of the supreme hierarchal magistrate — seems also to have been followed at Panticapseum. Mr. Stoddart concludes his paper thus: — "The Tumuli of Panticapseum, said to be full of diotce, some of which we know to be inscribed, are likely to reward examination. And when we read that ten thousand vases of the sort were sent on a single occasion to Sinope, a second-rate city, it becomes easy to imagine the profusion of stamped handles which the earth still conceals. Buried they must be, and out of sight, not destroyed ; for such fragments of pottery are almost imperishable. " Such handles of emporetic amphorse, as well as occasional tiles, upon which are stamped the seals of Greek magistrates, with their names, and sometimes their offices and their cities expressed, have been already discovered — in Egypt, at Alexandria ; in Greece, at Athens and at Corcyra (Corfu); in Sicily, at many points; in Asia Minor, at Xanthus; in European Sarmatia, at Olbia ; in the Taurica Chersonesus, at Panti- capseum, at Cherson (Sebastopol), and at a place now called Kermentjik, near Simpheropol." The accompanying wood engraving exhibits an inscription not unfrequently turned up. The word being written as here shown or in a contracted form. 76 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTER IX. SUBTERRANEAN TEJIPLE OR CHASCBER— ITS DECORATIONS— BURIAL OF HORSES IN TOMBS— TUNNELLING IN SEARCH OF OTHER TOMBS— ARMENIAN LABOURERS. Beneath an extensive sloping artificial Tumulus, running at right angles with the ridge extending northwards from Mons Mithridates, we came upon a mass of ruhble masonry ; on removing this, a passage was exposed leading to an arched vestibule, from whence we passed on to a chamber or temple also arched. The vestibule was four feet by six; the temple represented a square of fourteen feet. Both were empty, and had been already explored. Over the inner entrance, possibly with a view to guard it, were painted two lion-headed figures. ( Vide Fig. 1.) The walls of the temple were Fig. 1. Fiff. 2. marked oflF in squares. About the centre of the wall, and surrounding the building, there was what now appeared to be scroll work much defaced, in which birds, grotesque figures, and flowers, could still be traced. Two figures on horseback — a person in authority, and his attendant — were sketched, in black, on the wall opposite the entrance. {Vide Fig. 2.) CUSTOM OF BURYING HORSES IN TOMBS. 'J'J Slung on the shoulders of the latter could be traced a bow and quiver of arrows (the Scytho-Grecian bow and arrows are a common emblem on the coins of Phanagoria), and he held in his hand a long javelin, also a formidable weapon in those days. The gold coin of the period, found in this locality, and now in the British Museum ( Vide Title-page), represents the griffin holding the javelin in his mouth. On the bas-reliefs of the Bosphorus, the representation of an equestrian figure, attended by a youth, is very frequent. In the right and the left side of the wall of the inner chamber there were recesses, resembling doors which had been closed up. The workmen were directed to remove this masonry; but it was so exceedingly strong, that we found it an easier matter to break the stones than to remove them from their places. Stretched across the entrance of the recess on the right hand side, about mid-way, was a human skeleton entire ; a coarse lachrymatory, and something like an incense jar, but broken, was found under the neck. In the recess on the left side the skeleton of a horse was discovered in a similar position. The frequency of our finding the entire skeletons and perfect bones of animals, more especially those of the horse, which could always be ascertained by the teeth, appeared to us very remarkable. I am much indebted to Mr. Kemble, whose profound knowledge in archaeological subjects is well kno^vn, for the following remarks on the same interesting and curious subject: — " Burial of the horse is first mentioned by Tacitus as a part of the funeral rite of the Germanic races ; but it was common to the ancient Scythians, as we learn from Herodotus ; to the Tschudi of the Altai (Ledebour Keise. i. 231); the Tartars of the Crim (Lindner, p. 92); to the Keltic tribes in Gaul and Britain ; to the Franks, as evidenced in Childiric's grave ; the Saxons, as proved by constant excayation ; and the Northmen, as we read in all the Norse Sagas, and find in innumerable Norse graves. It was common also to the Slavonic nations ; to the Russ, in the tenth century (see Frahn's Edition of Ibn Fozlan's Travels, pp. 78 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. 104, 105) ; to the Lithuanians, Letts, Wends, and the Ugrian population of the Fins. In short, the horse was a sacrificial animal, and as such slaughtered and eaten at the tomb — the head in this case being deposited with the dead. I shall be happy at any time to show you very many passages relative to this subject ; but I suppose what you most want at present is the very remarkable instance I mentioned at Edinburgh of a similar occurrence in the eighteenth century. It runs thus in my authority (The Eheinischer Antiquarius, 1 Abth. 1 Band. p. 206) : — "'On 11th February, 1781, died Frederick Casimir, Commander of Lorraine, in the Order of Teutonic Knights, and General de la Cavalerie, in the service of the Palatinate. He was buried at Treves according to the ritual of his order. An officer of his stables, clad in deep mourning, led, immediately after the coffin, his master's charger, covered with housings of black cloth. At the moment when the coffin was being descended into the grave, a skilful blow of the hunting knife laid the noble horse dead upon its margin. The gravediggers immediately seized and lowered it into the vault upon the coffin of its lord, and the earth was shovelled into their common grave.' " The ox, cow, swine, stag, boar, dog, hare, and certain birds, as the falcon, were also sacrificed with the dead in Pagan times ; and we find their remains not only in the urns with the burnt bones of men, but even in later times accompanying the skeletons. The origin of the custom can in every case be traced up to traditions of heathendom." My experience corroborates Mr. Kemble's statement in every respect. For besides bones of the smaller animals, those of birds and fish were also repeatedly found. The entrance to this subterranean chamber, or temple, being now efiected, what w^s next to be done became the question. I conceived that we were in a good position to prosecute investigations on either side. There was full twenty feet of subsoil over our heads ; and, although the ground on the surface happened to have been thoroughly searched by TUNNELLING IN SEARCH OF OTHER TOMBS. 79 the Russians, still their excavated descents from above did not reach the level on which we now stood. I resolved, therefore, to carry a tunnel beneath these old pits, sloping it gradually downwards as we proceeded. To enable the workmen to remove the earth displaced, an inclined plane, of sufficient width to allow a wheelbarrow to pass up, was carried from the vestibule door upwards ; two men being attached to each wheelbarrow, in order to facilitate this part of the labour, which was very severe. To the right the tunnel was extended seven yards. Within this space two ordinary stone tombs, similar to those already described, and a third on a larger scale and of a better style of construction, were discovered; but neither of them contained any relic of interest worth specifyino-. On the left, descending as the tunnel was formed, we came upon a layer or stratum of schistus slate. The soil through which we passed was highly interesting. The sides and roof of the tunnel were composed of artificial soil, with here and there beds of charcoal, animal remains, and, as usual, heaps of broken pottery. About thirty feet from the entrance of the tunnel, the rock came to an abrupt termination towards the fi'ont and left hand side; the mark of the chisel by which the stone was removed, being quite distinct on its edges. The soil above, and to the left, which had been hitherto of a dark colom*, firm, and compact, now became soft, and of a clayey hue ; while towards the right it continued dark as before. Tunnelling on, the stratum of rock was again reached, twelve feet from the spot where it had disappeared. Loose sand formed the roof of this intervening space; and the exploring steel rod, six feet in length, was passed, without any eflFort, its entire length into similar sand, occupying the left hand side, and that under our feet : the ridge of slate rock extended from side to side on the riffht. There remained no doubt in our minds that we had at length hit upon an unexplored descent into the earth, on a very large scale. The tunnel was carried a few feet beyond the further edge, with the view to form a platform, on which planks to support the roof might be placed. The 80 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. earth removed from this portion of the tunnel became again dark and compact. At first there was no difficulty in removing the sand by which the shaft had been filled up ; but, as we descended, our difficulties increased of course. The soil had not only to be raised up by means of a rope and basket, but that to the left, being composed of the same loose material, was continually falling in, as it lost the support it received from that in the portion of the shaft wherein our descent was being made ; and in proportion as this side sand tumbled in, did the unsupported roof become exposed. The difficulty therefore was, how to support this side and also the roof. Wood, even for fuel throughout the winter, had been at times very scarce ; boards of packing cases did pretty well, so long as the space was limited ; but now these were of no use : they were continually tumbling down on our heads, bringing along with them a quantity of the loose substance. Fortunately, the house I occupied in the town had good beams and doors ; these were called into requisition. But as we descended, a greater length of beam to support the roof and sides became necessary ; and as the depth of the pit increased, the danger to those in it became greater, for the props supporting the upright beams loosened as the sand was removed. When we had reached a depth of twelve feet in the pit, the height of tunnel being nearly six more, the scaffolding gave way, and with it a large quantity of sand. There were three of us in the pit at the time ; our candles were extinguished, and we were left in total darkness and without the means of ascending. It was some time before lights were procured by the workmen above, we were then extricated from our perilous position ; most providentially without serious injury to any of us. The workmen, after this, positively refused even to re-enter the tunnel. Indeed, before the accident took place, I had made up my mind to abandon the work ; for, although most desirous to proceed with it, I saw that the safety of the workmen was emperillcd, not only by the loose state of the left side and roof, and also by a decided mephitic gas, which latterly SUBTERRANEAN TEMPLE OR SEPULCHRAL CHAMBER. 81 became overpowering to the senses, and dimmed the light of our candles. Moreover, the labour of raising the earth in baskets, and conveying it in wheelbarrows to the outside, through the stone tomb to the surface above, was becoming too much for us. The following woodcut represents the appearance of this remarkable sepulchre so far as it was traced:— f:lsM__,_.i_ The thickness of the stratum of slate rock did not exceed a couple of feet; beyond this was dark firm clay. The outline of the blade of the instrument by which the clay had been (originally) removed, still remained M 82 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. as perfect on the exposed surface as when first formed. The shape of the descent, so far as this could be ascertained, was about to pass from three sides of a square to a more circular form ; but to the last, the steel rod penetrated its full length into the loose sand at the bottom, without any effort. Our very workmen withdrew from this spot most reluctantly, feeling satisfied that we had hit on the right road to something ; and we all grieved that, after so much labour, we were still unable to seize upon that which at one time appeared within our reach. The labourers were chiefly Armenian followers of the army — a race who are gi'ound down and oppressed to a sad extent by their Mahomedan rulers. The poor creatures were very grateful for the kindness and care it happened to be in my power to show them ; and, although their lives were repeatedly endangered during our researches, they persevered in their labours, as they observed I took so deep an interest in their work. Some of them, indeed, had begun to fancy that they too were deep in archseological lore ; nails, bits of copper, pottery, bones — in fact, everything that attracted their attention — was carefully put aside for my inspection. It was most amusing to hear their sage remarks and observations on each substance ; and so marked was their disappointment if I rejected any article, that, in order to encourage them, I found it necessary to remove to my quarters all they had collected : to the great horror of my Russian cook and housekeeper — an old dame of some fourscore and ten, who had taken compassion on me when deserted by my other servants during the winter. FURTHER EXPLORATIONS. 83 CHAPTER X. FUETHER EXPLOEATIONS— EXCITEMENT OF A SOLDIER— COLOSSAL MARBLE STATUES —RECENT RESEARCHES OF THE RUSSIANS— OPENING OF A SEPULCHRAL CHAMBER —INTERESTING DISCOVERY- OPENING OF OTHER CATACOMBS— THEIR CONTENTS. We now sought out other ground, and selected a smooth level space which never, apparently, had heen turned over, distant about one hundred vards from that we had last worked on. In this, perpendicular descents were formed. Ten feet from the surface, we reached the same lamina of rock which had been struck upon in the last work described. Here we found a tomb neatly hewn out in the rock, covered by a flag, the skeleton resting on the clay beneath, with a glass cup placed at the head. Our attention was attracted to another artificial opening in the rock, somewhat similar to, but on a much smaller scale than the large descent which we had just abandoned. On clearing the surface, we found that the rock here was hewn out three feet in width and fourteen in length ; the intervening space being filled with sand, similar in all respects to the other, into which the exploring rod penetrated with ease. Fifteen feet of this sand being removed, we came upon the skeleton of a horse; a few feet further down the end of an upright stone, the breadth of the shaft, was exposed. Fatigued with working in the shaft, I had seated myself above, cautioning the workmen to let me know as soon as they arrived at anything remarkable. A soldier of Her Majesty's 7 1st Eegiment (Highlanders) who happened to be on the spot and was eagerly inspecting the work, suddenly rushed up to where I sat, and respectfully saluting me, said, with an effort at calmness, for he was very much agitated, " As sure as death, sir, they have come to a cellar." Doubtless visions of old port. 84 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. 01- rather rum, were at this time passing through his mind. However, I was not long in reaching the bottom of the shaft, in order to be the first into this " cellar." One of the men had passed the soldier's walking-cane into a narrow chink, on the side of the flag-stone, and this gave rise to his agitation. The sand had still, however, to be removed, in order, to displace the flag-stone. When this was done, the entrance into a vault, by an arched passage twenty-four inches wide and thirty-two in height, fronting the east, was exposed ; over and above the doorway a lintel-stone was fixed in the clay, on which the flag-stone that closed the passage rested. The aperture was only sufiiciently large to admit of one creeping in at a time, the passage being about three feet in thickness. The tomb was of a semicircular form, arched, and measured ten feet by twelve in area, and eight feet high in the centre. It had been cut out of the natural calcareous clay ; the form and shape of the instrument by which the clay had been removed being quite distinct on the surface. The floor was covered with beautiful pebbles and shells, similar to those found on the shores of the Sea of Azoff". There was an arched niche in each of three sides, on which lay crumbled portions of wood, bones, and fragments of glass ; but everything appeared in disorder, and it was evident, at the first glance, that all within had been displaced from its original position. Further search discovered to us a circular passage, little more than one foot in diameter, proceeding to the right from one of the niches. I attempted to pass through ; but the passage was too small. On its being enlarged,. I was proceeding to make another attempt, when the man of the 71st earnestly entreated me not to risk my life; at the same time assuring me, that as he was partly the means of getting me in, he would follow me to the end. We crept into another chamber similar exactly to the last, with the same disorder around. A passage led on to a third: everything was upset here also. It was into this last tomb that parties DISCOVERY OF TWO COLOSSAL STATUES. 85 had, at some remote date, made an entrance, and effected a passage into the Others by piercing the intervening space, which was about two feet in thickness. This was evident; for the stone was removed from the door, and sand had fallen in, closing upwards of one-third of the area, while in the centre tomb all was clear, and the flag-stone closed the entrance. On muttering something about ill luck and misfortune, the 71st man, holding his candle up and looking as if he had just risen from the dead, eagerly inquired if we saw anything. He was assured that there was no cause for alarm; but his knees trembled, and he kept continually turning sharply round, as if he suspected that the ghost of one of the departed was about to lay hands on him. I became terrified lest he might drop down in a swoon ; in which case it would have been a puzzle to get him through the hole he entered. At length we reached the exit ; and the soldier speedily took his departure, declaring he would go "into no more of them dungeons." These repeated disappointments naturaUy chagrined me; but I resolved to persevere until the period of our departure arrived. M. Bootmy, the Procureur du Roi, afready referred to, pointed out a spot where, just prior to the breaking out of hostiUties, a Russian peasant, digging in the plot adjoining his house, with the view to enlarge his premises, came upon two beautiful Grecian statues in pm-e white marble. The one he described as the figure of the Pythian Apollo, stood about fifteen feet in height, on a pedestal or base six inches in thickness. It was nude, with a loose robe over the shoulder and extended left ann, and holding a scroll in his hand; his head was uncovered, and he was in the attitude of one addressing an assembly. The other was a female figure twelve feet in height, also in pure marble. Her head slightly reclined; her hair was thrown back, and it was encircled by a network which fell over her shoulders. The drapery 86 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. which covered the figure was beautifully arranged, and, like the male figure, her head was uncovered. The chiselling of both was perfect, and the features were purely Grecian. A report of the discovery was made to the late Emperor Nicholas, who ordered the Governor to send the statues to St. Petersburg, and directed a medal and a sum of money to be given to the finder at a public meeting of the inhabitants. The man received his medal and his money ; but the statues were both lost in the Volga, when en route to the Russian capital. I searched on this spot without success. This Russian gentleman assured me that there are still a vast abundance of valuable Grecian remains, not only in this Peninsula, but also in the countries around. And the following paragraph, extracted from the Times of a recent date, shows that the Russians are still eager in the search :— " The Herculean labour of removing a cairn two hundred and fifty feet in height, which has been carried on for nearly five years near the village of Alexandropol, in the Russian province of Ekatarinoslaw, has just been completed, and led to the most important discovery of numerous articles of gold, silver, bronze, and clay, as also of iron shafts and rods, nails, skeletons of horses, and ornaments of gold. The whole are in an excellent state of preservation ; and although traces of an attempt, made at some remote period, to efiect an entry is plainly visible, the number of objects now brought to light are very considerable. In comparing the well-known passage in Herodotus respecting the burial-place of the Scythian kings with the present discovery, it is clear that this is one of the catacombs mentioned by him ; and sanguine hopes are entertained that the success attendant on this first attempt will lead to further and even more important discoveries." Not far from the tombs last described, the workmen had arrived at the mouth of a shaft, in all respects similar to the other. Close to it was a grave cut out of the rock. The shaft was cleared, and the =LATE r. CEK6lL,delK.Jith. W.Wsst.iith'' Hatton Gaiden- FROM THE VAHANGIAN TOMB S_BYZANTINE. Pablashedij^ Strath, Elder i C° Lona0n,lB57 OPENING OF A SEPULCHRAL CHAMBER. 87 flag-stone removed from the entrance; close to which were the bones of a horse. After our previous disappointments, it will be admitted that we had some cause for misgivings ; but all doubts disappeared on entering. The cut represents the position of the various objects in the tomb. There was no confusion here. The floor was covered with the same beautiful pebbles. On the niches around all the objects remained as they had been placed twenty centuries ago. It was a sight replete with interest to survey this chamber: to examine each article as it had been originally placed; to contemplate its use ; and to behold the efiects of time on us proud mortals. "Dust thou art, and unto dust thou shalt return," was exemplified here to the letter. There, in the stillness of this chamber, lay the unrufiled dust of the human frame, possessing still the form of man. The bones had all disappeared, or their outer surface alone remained. The space occupied by the head did not exceed the size of the palm of the hand; yet the position of the features could still be traced on the undisturbed dust. There was the depression for the eyes, the slight prominence of the nose, and the mark of the mouth; the teeth being the only portion of the entire frame which remain unchanged. The folds in which the garments enveloped the body, nay, even the knots which bound them, could be traced on the dust. A few enamelled beads were found in the right hand of the dead, and some walnuts in the left; and the green mark of a copper ring, into which a stone had been fixed, was on one finger. On each niche one body had been placed. The coffins, crumbled into powder, had fallen in. At the head was a glass bottle ; one of these still held about a tablespoonful of wine: the nuts and wine being doubtless placed there to cheer and support the soul in its passage to paradise. There was a cup 88 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. and a lachrymatory of glass, and an unglazed earthenware lamp stood in a small niche above the head. This tomb was sufficiently spacious to permit ten of us to stand upright. Search was made for another tomb adjoining this ; but none was found. Continuing our researches above in the same locality, we struck upon two other shafts leading to catacombs, of a similar nature to the last ; animal bones being found in each descent, just before reaching the large flag-stone which closed the passage. The interiors of both of these were similar in construction, and the bodies had been arranged in the same manner : one was considerably larger than the other. In the larger, the only niche in the wall held the remains of two bodies, and there were four placed on the ground. The smaller had two on the ground, and one on the niche in the wall. Those on the floor had no ornaments, and were probably slaves or attendants. Glass vessels, and some fibulae, were also discovered in these tombs. Finding that I had come upon an unexplored field, a tunnel was run from the last excavation, to save the toil of descending from above through a quantity of surface earth. (Vide Frontispiece.) We had not proceeded far when we arrived at the tomb usually found close to the descent. In this catacomb were two low niches in the walls. On one side two adult bodies had been placed, and at their feet the remains of a child. On the other were the remains of a person of very large stature. On his left breast an ornamental brooch was fixed; silver and bronze ornaments of a belt encircled his waist, and the remains of a short sword or dagger lay by his side. There was a beautiful glass cup and saucer, lachrymatories, and other vessels of much interest, discovered here. We found it was necessary to be extremely careful with these glass vessels. They were of so slender and exceedingly friable a nature, that if suddenly removed from the confined and warm air below to the cold atmosphere above, they almost invariably cracked and fell to pieces : the same happened with very many of the beads. Plai-e VI. G.r'Keii.del. el htfi. W WestJith'^Hauoii Garden. FRDM THE VARANGIAN TOMBS _. BYZANTINE. PuHished ij Simth.Elder i C° Landcm,185A CONTENTS OF A SUBTERRANEAN TOMB. 89 Proceeding onwards we arrived at another descent ; the tomb adjoining which, however, contained nothing. A large projecting stone in the clay interfered with the formation of a cavity here. An arched passage was discovered to the right, from whence a second chamber had been scooped out. In this were the remains of one person, with no ornament or relic near. Another passage was discovered extending still further into the earth ; passing into this, the remains of a man, evidently of unusually large stature, was found. In length he must have measured fully seven feet, and he was of great breadth; judging from the space occupied by his dust. In this, as in the others which we explored, the resemblance of the contents of the tomb bore a strong analogy ; but this one appeared to be better finished than the others : the ornaments placed on the only niche in the wall were also of a superior construction. There had been something like a Persian skull-cap on the head of this man, and his long hair — the only portion of the remains which had not passed into its natural dust — fell over his shoulders. An ornamental brooch, studded with small garnets, was on his left breast. A very beautiful glass decanter, having a handle, and ribbed round the neck, with a drinking glass, were found near his head. In this decanter there was about a tablespoonful of wine, and, from the lees encrusted on the glass that stood close to it, the glass must have been filled with wine when placed there; both vessels being conveniently situated, as if the deceased might be inclined to partake of the contents of the glass and replenish it from the decanter. The wine was of a red colom*, and it had a distinctly vinous taste. The red and white portions separated, on being exposed to the air, and the fluid rapidly evaporated, until it was bottled up and sealed. This wine, and some perfect walnuts found in the same tomb, are now in the British Museum. A glass lachrymatory, and a very beautiful engraved cornelian, representing the she wolf suckling Komulus and Eemus, the remains of a dagger in a sheath, and some corroded links of iron resemblmg armour, were found in this tomb. Indeed, the tomb bore 90 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. about it traces of its being the resting-place of a chief, or one of the most distinguished of its tribe. In a portion of dark surface soil, projecting into the white calcareous clay of this tomb, which was upwards of thirty feet below the natural surface, were found the remains of a female ; they were enveloped in a substance resembling seaweed, and the bones were in excellent preservation. The seaweed was compressed by the superincumbent earth to the thickness of two inches : it was as white as snow, and when taken in the hand separated into thin flakes and fell to pieces. This substance was found in many of our researches, and it was possibly made use of on account of the antiseptic property which it doubtless possesses. Adjoining the large tomb last described, and communicating with it by a small arched passage, was a narrow tomb ( Vide Frontispiece) of peculiar construction. It was formed with red square tiles, three on each side, ha\'ing Greek letters ( Vide Plate 7) stamped thereon. It contained the bones of a female, also enveloped in seaweed, around which there were some interesting relics. The central catacomb evidently con- tained the remains of a chief; the body on the right hand was possibly his slave ; the tomb formed with tiles contained probably his concubine, her attendant being close to her. It was now necessary to abandon this highly interesting spot. The tunnelling having been carried too perpendicularly downwards, the earth had already given way more than once, and all but entombed us also. To reach the last tomb described, viz., that formed with red tiles, the length of passage was not less than forty feet. There were no props used : we trusted alone to the tenacity of the earth, which was considerable ; but if a horse or other large animal passed over the ground above our heads, the entire roof shook as if about to tumble in. The experience I had now acquired convinced me that the deep descent close to the large stone temple (or chapel, as the workmen called it), which we had abandoned on account of the formidable nature of the CALCAREOUS CLAY OF THE CATACOMBS. Ql work, was analogous to the calcareous tombs, but on a much larger scale. The calcareous clay excavated from these catacombs crumbles into dust on exposure ; the shafts descending into them, on the tombs beino- closed and each catacomb has usually a separate entrance — are refilled with this sand, which now bears no resemblance to the surrounding soil. And when we reflect on the extent to which this underground excavation has been carried on, we oease to wonder at the huge mounds of earth which have accumulated on the surface. 92 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CHAPTER XI. ARMENIAN LABOURERS— EXTENSIVE EXCAVATIONS AND INTERESTING DISCOVERIES — PROFESSOR OWEN'S DESCRIPTION OF HUMAN BONES FOUND — EXPLORATION OF THE GREAT SHAFT, AND ITS RESULTS — PERILOUS SITUATION — RUSSLAN JEALOUSY. Peace having been proclaimed, the period of our departure from Kertch was near at hand. Eesolving to make another attempt to explore the great shaft, at the bottom of which I pictured to myself an extensive chamber dazzling with bright and valuable ornaments, I called a council of workmen, and was not a little gratified to learn that they were unanimously of opinion that the work should be proceeded with at once. They made the shrewd observation, that now we had reached the door, we might as well open it as leave it to the Russians to do so. I often admired the cheerful disposition of my Armenian labourers. Their ready desire to please, their willingness to carry out my wishes, their eagerness to prosecute the search at all times, when we arrived at a spot which promised well, even although it interfered with their meals, could not fail to make me very partial to them. Their joy was equal to my own on making any discovery, and I do believe they latterly took nearly as much interest in the explorations as I did. When we arrived at any spot which promised success, one or more of them visited it during the night, to prevent the Tartars from plundering. They are a faithful, well informed, and intelligent people— quite the opposite to the modern Greeks in every respect : save, perhaps, in mercantile concerns, wherein they excel them in shrewdness. On one occasion I overheard a discussion amongst the labourers. The Greeks and Turks were for striking work, on account of the dangers to which they were exposed. The Armenians argued that they were bound SUBTERRANEAN STONE TOMES. 93 to continue because the Hakeem Bashee had been very kind to them; that his Queen was a great friend to all of them ; and that they ought to work, as all they got would be given to her. My ascendancy over these men was acquired, in a great measure, through the influence of Mr. Gunn, a young medical missionary, who joined my stafi' on proceeding to the East. He early acquired a good colloquial knowledge of their language, and he is, in all respects, peculiarly adapted for the interesting field of labour to which he is about to devote himself. The only efi'ectual mode of exploring this shaft was to remove entirely that portion of the hill immediately over it. Carefully measuring the distance below, from the position of the shaft to the mouth of the tunnel, and then from the latter to the entrance into the temple, the space presumed to be over the descent was marked off above. Placing the men in two gangs, each were required to work for half an hour without ceasing, and then to relieve each other. Being inveterate smokers, this plan afforded all an opportunity, at short intervals, of resting themselves and indulging in the soothing influence of a pipe. On the second day of the work, at a depth of twelve feet from the surface, we struck upon two stone tombs, con- taining adult remains. Eeclining, and at the same time resting upon them, were fragments of large amphorse, each of which contained the remains of a child. Beneath, at a distance of some three feet, was found the skeleton of a horse. There now appeared everj^ indication that a great feast or sacrifice had --^^ -^:^s^^-.^^ 94 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. been held at this place ; for we came upon immense heaps of broken amphorae; fragments of wine -jars, the insides of which were still encrusted with the wine lees ; broken drinking cups ; flat tiles, which may have served the purpose of plates ; ox and sheep bones ; fragments of earthenware cooking pots, still black with smoke, and quantities of charcoal ; all confusedly heaped together. Descending still further, we came upon what appeared to us to have been a workshop. Portions of crucibles in which copper had been smelted; corroded iron, painted plaster, lumps of vitreous glass, moulds, fragments of painted and glazed terra cotta, broken glass vessels, &c., were all found in one spot. The discovery of these articles was deeply interesting to us, and most encouraging to our future success also ; for we argued that they formed the debris of a rare collection, which we should shortly come upon. Five feet deeper we came to the tunnel, and then exposed the excavation in the rock ; the shaft, except in size, in all respects resembling those leading to the calcareous tombs. As the hill was removed, platforms were scarped off the side on which the earth was thrown up, a man being placed on each platform ( Vide Frontispiece) ; and as we descended into the shaft, planking was thrown across it and fixed into its sides, forming temporary platforms ; on each of which a man was placed, in order to throw up the earth which he received from the platform immediately below him. On the eighth day we reached a depth of fifteen feet in the shaft ; the portion of the hill removed being twenty-eight feet in length, twenty in height, and twelve in breadth. We had till now surmounted every difficulty, and our work was progressing famously. Still we appeared to be an immense distance from the bottom of the shaft ; for, even after removing a quantity of the soft sand from one corner, the exploring rod dropped its entire length into the sand and indicated no bottom near. I had begun to feel uneasy regarding the stability of the platform, and was considering what better system to substitute in its stead, when my attention was attracted by the fall of some earth from above. Looking PERILOUS POSITION. 95 upwards, to my horror I beheld a deep rent in a portion of the bank which had projected slightly over the pit in which we now stood. With as little confusion as the frightfully perilous position in which we were placed would admit, we scrambled aloft. We heard the earth falling in lai'ge quantities around us, and the men above kept urging us to speed, as the gap was rapidly widening. Our feet were barely planted on firm soil when the earth slowly opened and, falling with a tremendous crash, carried away the fine platfonns that had cost us such trouble to erect ; closing to the mouth a good twenty feet of our work, crushing the ladder, and covering a number of our mining tools besides, which was a great inconvenience. The workmen were naturally alarmed, and showed some reluctance to return to their work ; but it was pointed out to them, ttat the danger which had existed was now passed, and that it was much better that the slip had taken place when it did, while we had platforms to ascend by, than by and by when we should have to ascend and descend in a basket. My reasoning was sufficient : they placed their lives, they said, in my hands ; and they worked with such a will, that in three days we again reached the spot where our tools were deposited. The following day we discovered the entire skeleton of a horse in the very centre of the shaft. The earth up to this period had been drawn up by means of ropes and baskets, or buckets ; which rendered the progress of the woi'k slow and unsatisfactorv. The mouth of the shaft, which, as before said, was hewn out of rock three feet in thickness, was twelve feet broad by eighteen long. It then took a bell shape, the diameter of which was twenty-two feet. This portion was in dark, consistent clay, to a depth of six feet. Beyond this, the size of the shaft became a square of seven feet, cut out of sandstone ; and thus it descended. ( Vide Frontispiece.) When we had reached a depth of some thirty feet in the shaft, the labour of raising the earth became so great, that had it not been for 96 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. the valuable aid of Captain Commerell, commanding Her Majesty's ship Snahe, who in the most handsome way offered his assistance, I should have been forced to abandon the work. In the course of a very few hours Captain Commerell, with a party of his active men, threw a bridge across the summit of the shaft over the opening on the hill ; on the centre he fixed a block and shears, and by this means, with relays of baskets, the earth was cleared out; four men being at work below, and all the others put to the rope. A few feet beyond the bones of the horse, and also in the centre of the descent, the skeleton of an adult female, partly enveloped in seaweed, was found ; under the neck was a common earthenware lachrymatory ; on the middle finger of the right hand there was a copper key ring, and on the left wrist a few mosaic beads. Three feet lower down, we reached a layer of human male skeletons, laid head to feet, the bones in excellent preservation ; as indeed we always found them to be, wherever the calcareous clay came into immediate contact with them. There were ten skeletons on this spot; and, separated by a foot of sand, we came upon four similar layers, being exactly fifty in all. There was no ornament or relic discovered in this space. We had now reached a depth of forty-two feet in the shaft. The bones of another horse were turned out, and then nothing but loose sand, to a depth of five feet. Six male skeletons were here again met with, and on these being removed, hard bottom could at length be felt with the steel exploring rod. At the bottom lay two skeletons completely enveloped in seaweed, and in a large ornamented amphora at one corner, which was unfortunately broken, were the remains of a child. The depth from the mouth to the bottom of the shaft was fifty-two feet. An alabaster scent-bottle, the surface of which was partly corroded, fictile vases, lachrymatories of terra cotta, two-handled tazzas in considerable quantities, beads, and other trifles, were all we got to repay our labours. {See Plates 8 and 9.) There were no fibulae of any description. The HOSTILITY OF THE RUSSIAN OFFICIALS. 97 size of the shaft continued the same down to the bottom ; the mark of the chisel on the rock being as fresh as when first made. Its sides were formed, first, of rock three feet, then soft clay seven feet, sandstone thirty feet, and lastly, hard firm clay to a depth of twelve feet. We carefully and most minutely examined every portion of the shaft, more especially that part which passed through the clay, in hopes of discovering some concealed passage to a tomb, but none was found. Everything during the descent promised so very favourably that we fully expected a rich treasure below. But if a chamber does exist, the passage to it baffled all. our researches to discover it. Since my return to England, I have heard that the keeper of the Museum at Kertch has discovered a passage and a large tomb adjoining, in which quantities of ornaments and vessels in the precious metals have been discovered. But I very much doubt the fact. The entrance could not have escaped the scrutiny which the shaft underwent previous to my leaving it. Moreover, the Eussian ofiicials evinced a decided hostility to our researches. Their first act, on the declaration of peace, was to solicit that I should cease my excavations ; and on my declining to do so, a complaint was formally made by them to the English authorities that I was exhuming their recent dead. Another circumstance also occurred, which leads me to suppose that the report now raised rests upon no foundation. Just as I was about to leave Kertch, I was told by a Russian priest, who communicated information to me occasionally in return for bottles of rum, that the most valuable treasures which had been deposited in the Museum, had been buried under the flags of the floor, and were still safe. On hearing this report, I took a party of workmen to the Museum, and satisfied myself that the report was what is denominated in vulgar parlance, a hoax. I have stated that the bones found embedded in the calcareous clay remained in good preservation. I examined with much interest the dififerent formations of cranium, and the diseases which had affected the 98 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. long bones; and perceived some united fractures which would do credit to the best surgeons of our own day. Toothache, to judge from the number of carious teeth, appeared to have been a very common affliction ; but in no case did I discover any attempt at stopping the teeth : a practice which is known to have existed among the Egyptians. The greater number of bones which I attempted to bring with me to this country have crumbled into powder. Those that remained were submitted to the able anatomist and osteologist, Professor Owen, who has kindly favoured me with the following report thereon. They comprise the skull and left femur of the male skeleton, and the left femur of the female, found at the bottom of the great shaft; and the femur and tibia, with a portion of the vertebral column, of the deformed skeleton, discovered in the large Tumulus with the bronze Hydria. Clarke states that the custom of cremation was not adopted by the Greeks in the Taurida ; and my researches, in a great degree, corroborate this, for only in one instance did I find that ashes had been deposited in an urn. Description of the Bones by Professor Owen. " The skull of an adult male, rather under the middle age, the wisdom-teeth (last molars) lost before death. Of Indo-European characters ; of the dolichocephalic variety. " Indications of a vigorous muscular individual in the process from the basi-occipital, and the ridges near the occipital condyles. " Left femur of the same individual, indicating his stature to have been about five feet nine and a half inches, with the linese asperse and other indications of muscular force unusually, almost abnormally, developed. The mark of the attachment of the ligamentum teres, and of the capsule of the knee-joint, concur in bespeaking the active muscular character of the individual. PROFESSOR OWEN's DESCRIPTION OF THE BONES. QQ " The left femur of a female, manifesting — though in a minor detTee than in the foregoing bone of the male— active muscular habits. " The femur and tibia, portions of both which bones are enlarged by diseased action, probably simple inflammation." 100 ANTIQUITIES OF KEKTCH. CHAPTER XII. SPECULATIONS ON THE OKIGIN OF THE SHAFT — CURIOUS EELICS DISCOVERED — ANGLO-SAXON FIBUL^^-COINS OF PANTICAP^UM— MOTIVES FOR EXPLORATION —PECULATIONS OF THE TARTARS. It was argued by many who were tempted by curiosity to visit this extraordinary work, that it was nothing but a cloaca. But I do not at all agree with them in this supposition. Had it been so, wherefore the regularity with which the remains were deposited ? The three at the bottom of the pit— male, female, and child — most likely an entire family ; then the six household domestics— cup-bearer, cook, groom, page^ messenger, &c. ; following these, the horse ; and, last of all, the fifty slaves. Even the substance to which I have applied, perhaps, the misnomer of seaweed, may be the " bed of grass " described by Herodotus : the " deep square fosse," and finally the hill placed over "the fosse;" could there have been a more exact and minute description of the mode in which the Scythian kings were deposited in their last resting-place? The substitution of Greek terra cotta ornaments for the silver and gold dishes, would imply that the work was accomplished while the Milesians held the colony; at which period the Scythians had been shorn of their wealth and power. The Greek historian states that the Scythian bows were made of reeds ; by which he undoubtedly means bamboos. His seaweed may in like manner imply rushes, or grass. At the same time it ought to be stated that in the proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of London, reference is made to Koman remains having been found in deep perpendicular pits, from which tombs branched off" on each side of the descent; every care being taken not only to conceal the real passage, but false passages being actually formed, with Q W m m m Hi Wl ^' -Q CURIOUS RELICS OF ANTIQUITY. 101 the view doubtless of deceiving any future explorer. In the " Voyage Pittoresque en Seville," shafts of a similar form are represented, from whence chambers branched off. Not the least interesting of the relics discovered by me was a Col- throp, formed from the head of the human radius. The representa- tion here given will explain itself. There are four points so joined at the base, that being thrown on the ground, one stands upright ; one point is formed from the human bone, the other three are ivory spikes (one being broken) introduced into the articulating end of the bone. The specimen is probably unique. Gold-leaf was sometimes found on the surface of the dust, in the place where the head had lain, as if it had been placed on the brow. In one was found a copper circlet, having a centre branch attached, which passed over the crown of the head ; to this were appended smaller wires of copper, to which a garland of flowers had probably been attached. Some of the beads were of a mosaic pattern presenting beautiful forms and colours ; others were formed of gold, terra cotta, jet, amber, niccolo or vitreous paste, glass, stone, and shell. ( Vide Plates 7 and 8.) There were also iron and copper armlets similar to the accompanying woodcut. There appears to have been a similarity between the customs of the Greeks and those of the Egyptians. That practice which we know to have been so common in Egypt, of placing with their dead small sepulchral figures 102 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. fig. 1. Fig. 2. in porcelain, as tokens or emblems of burial, was in use also amongst the Greeks. I found in some tombs, fisrures in baked clay, of Hermes or Mercury, as shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 2 represents an Eygptian sepulchral figure which I took from a tomb at Cairo. I also discovered a key ring ( Vide Plate 5) exactly similar to one which a gentle- man, to whom I showed it, assured me he had himself taken from a tomb at Thebes. The intaglios picked up in the tombs (as shown in the annexed cuts) at Kertch, were evidently the seals of individuals ; just as the scarabeus is found in Egyptian tombs. The peculiar construction of some of the larger tombs, such as that re- presented at page 6l, is essentially Egyptian. These were probably built at a date long prior to the settlement of the Greeks in the country, and may have been made use of by them, at a subsequent date, as sepulchres. In the great shaft were dis- covered two adult female busts in baked clay ( Vide Plate 8 and Fig. 1), and one of a youth of the same material. ( Vide Fig. 2.) The modelling of the for- mer is good, although apparently Fig_ , moulded by the fingers from the ^. ^ RELICS OF ANTIQUE ART. 103 wet clay and afterwards baked ; as the impression of the finders can be traced on it. I likewise found in the same place a figure about six inches in height, representing a senator in robes; it formed one of a cluster which stood out in relief on a large earthenware jar which held the remains of an infant. ( Vide Plate 8.) Many articles of a fragile nature were unavoidably destroyed by the workmen. But indeed it was impossible to avoid this, for such relics were often turned out of the earth, there being nothing to indicate our approach towards them. I may here state, for the information of explorers, that a very serviceable cement is formed with gum arable and calomel, and if the fragments of terra cotta, pottery, &c., can be secured, there is little difficulty in uniting them. If the object be hollow it must be carefully supported with some soft substance, as cotton or tow. Fragments of Samian ware, beautiful specimens of terra cotta, coarse and fine pottery, in all shapes and forms, were picked up during my researches. A number of conical-formed pieces of baked clay, of differ- ent sizes, some being stamped, and all per- forated with a hole at the top, were found. The purpose of these is uncertain. They may have been used as weights, in commercial transactions ; or for the purpose of being attached to nets ; or they may have been intended for weaving purposes. I was now most reluctantly obliged to bring my researches to a close, for transports were in the offing to bear away all Englishmen from Russian soil. I say most reluctantly, because in work such as I had been engaged on — as indeed in all operations — knowledge is gained by experience. I had, as it were, served my apprenticeship, and 104 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. formed a good general notion where to begin, when to go on, and when to stop. The Szislics, a small animal of the weasel tribe, numerous over this country, penetrate deep into the ground and form comfortable chambers, into which they convey their food. I found that their galleries ran down between the natural and artificial soil ; the animals being possibly prompted by instinct to choose this direction, the soil being looser and easier worked than in other spots. This fact, and the appearance of the soil as I proceeded, served to guide me, and enabled me to mark out spots on which some of my friends explored with success on their own account. Had time admitted, I entertained no doubt that a large measure of success would have rewarded my labours ; for there still remains a wide field for research. However, the discovery of the calcareous tombs was alone ample remuneration for all my toil. The Grecian figure in gold, and the bracelets, I regard as very ancient and beautiful specimens of early Greek art; and they exhibit a remarkable type of the mythology of the age in which they were fabricated. But of all the relics discovered, none have excited more interest, and given rise to more speculation amongst antiquarians, than the Fibulae, which bear so exact an analogy to that class denominated Anglo-Saxon, that the general impression appears to be that they belonged to one and the same people. The Greek emperors, we know, were accustomed to retain in their pay a Teutonic bodyguard termed Varangians, meaning exiles or wanderers, who were possessed of many privileges. These were, in fact, Anglo-Saxons, and were joined by their countrymen from time to time, as the crusades and other causes attracted new bands to the East. They became more distinguished for valour than the far-famed Prsetorian bands of Eome, and existed in full strength till the last days of the Greek empire. In Villehardoun's account of the taking of the city of Constantinople by the Franks and Venetians, he makes repeated mention of this celebrated and singular body of Englishmen, forming a THE VARANGIAN WARRIORS. 105 guard attendant on the king's person ; and it is by no means improbable that the Bosphorian kings found it also their interest to have their household troops composed of this faithful, hardy, and erratic race. The following passage from the " Decline and Fall of the Eoman Empire," may serve to explain the strange position of the Varangian troops at Constantinople. Having traced their origin as the founders, and for three generations the upholders, of the Scandinavian dynasty in Russia, the historian shows that Wladimar the First, feeling himself securely settled, and in danger only from his own friends, induced them, by representing the superior wealth of the south, to proceed to Constantinople. " The exiles were entertained at the Byzantine court ; and they preserved, to the last days of the Empire, the inheritance of spotless loyalty and the use of the Danish or English tongue. With their broad and double-edged battle-axes on their shoulders, they attended the Greek Emperor to the temple, to the senate, and to the hippodrome. He slept and feasted under their trusty guard ; and the keys of the palace, the treasurj-, and the capitol were held by the firm and faithful hands of the Varangians." De la Motte Fouque, in his spirited narrative, in which he describes the active part that the Varangians played, states that they were styled " the eagles " of the Greek army ; that their tall and erect forms were always conspicuous, and their actions more glorious than those of others. Some archaeologists, however, argue that the ornaments of Anglo- Saxon origin, date from a period far anterior to the existence of the Varangians. They trace the Anglo-Saxon character of these ornaments very much higher, and suppose that there were analogies between the ancient Scythian inmates of the tombs and the remote ancestors of the Anglo-Saxons. In short, that the objects found at Kertch ought to be assigned from the Varantrian guard to the brothers and cousins of their ancestors, fourteen or fifteen generations back. The author of "The Celt, the Koman, and the Saxon" states that " Bronze is the metal found almost exclusively in the very early sepulchral 106 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. interments. But we ai-c not sufficiently acquainted with the sentiments and customs of the people to whom they belonged, to say that there was not some particular reason why they preferred articles of bronze rather than other metals. Pei'haps it was looked upon as more precious. " The origin of bronze was the attempt to harden copper, in countries where iron was not known or could not be procured. Iron undergoes much more rapid decomposition, and even in interments of the Anolo- Saxon period there is often scarcely a trace remaining of what we know were articles composed of that metal. What then must be the case with regard to similar interments at a much more remote period?" But it is to the coins of Panticapseum that we must look for the most interesting record of this colony. At the period of the arrival of the Milesians in this locality, the invention of the art which enables us to trace the earliest records of the migration, the mythology, and manners of this great people, was in its infancy. This " State Gazette," as Addison denominates the Eoman coinage, which rose on the ruins of that of Greece, records, as it were, all current events. Up to the period of Mithridates, the medals of the Bosphorus exhibit the independency of the colony. In the reign of this monarch the coins of Pontus and of the Cimmerian Bosphorus were united ; and after the death of this great prince, the medals show that the settlement became a colony of the Eoman empire. The grazing stag sometimes seen on the medals of Mithridates indicates that he was sovereign over the whole of the Taurida; the crescent and star, also frequently represented, belonging to the temple of the Tauric Diana, then worshipped by all the surrounding countries. The accompanying woodcut delineates the only coin of this monarch's reign which I hap- pened to find : the description is as follows : — PLxVTE X. jYiiJiii[g@[Li i^m® m^©uii^rmm^ @m Ki^MPCLii ©if ^m 1. Antimachus. 2. ^schines. 3. Borys. 4. Cratistarchus. 5. Demetrius. 6. Dios. 7. E . . . . 8. Histiseus. 9. Naupon. 10. Philocrates. n. Pro . . . 12. 1.3 AMPHORA HANDLES. I. with title aarvvonoQ "ANTIM]AXOY °ASTYNO]MOY . . . . Y (ascribed to Olhia.) A2TYN0M0Y AISXINOY APAB02 BOPYOS ASTY NOMOYNTOS nYGEQ (Vase). Cf. Sal)atkr,Y>. 490, 1, 2, 3, '^"^ and p. 492, 2. (Bunch of Grapes). Cf. Sabatkr, 483, 4, 5, 6. ASTYNOMOY KPATISTAPXOY (Vase?) KAAAISGENH . . [AST]YNOMOY "T" [AHJMHTPIOY TOY .... NHTOY ^f .... AATHS AI02 ASTYNOMOY ANTIMAXOY E . . AA . . . AETYNOMOYNTOS IAOKPATEYS A2TYN0M0Y (VaseY EKATAI0[Y .^\ NAYHQN ASTYNO[MOYN] TOS OY (Head in IAOK [PATEYS] profile.) A2TYN[0 npQTroY ACTY[N0M0Y] AION[YSIOY] Callisthenes in Sabatier, 402. nATPOYT-Y AHOAAOAQPOY (Vase.) KOS OY TOY Y i^^ (Prow of a Ship.) 1. jEnesidamus. 2. Ag . . omachus. 3. Damocrates. 4. Symmaclius. 5. Thesedetes. 6. Thestor. 7. Agoranax. 8. Agoranax. 9. Aristides. 10. Asicrates. 11. Cleonjmius. 12. Cleucates. 13. Ilioron. 14. Marsyas. 15. Pausanias. IC. Thea;detus. 17. Xuuojjhaiuus. 18. Xenopliou. 19. . . . phanes. 20. Agesidas. n. RHODIAN AMPHORA. Circular with rose in centre. Eni AINH2IAAM0Y ArPIANIOY Eni Ar . OMAXOY YAKINGIOY AAMOKPATEYS Eni SYMMAXOY AFPIANIOY Eni OEAIAHTOY AAA[IO]Y Eni OESTOPOS nANAMOY /3. without rose. ArOPANAKTOS APTAMITIOY ArOPAN.4KTOS AAAIOY APIS[TEI]AA n[ANAM]OY Em A2IKPATEYS nANAMOY Em KAEi2NY MOY BAAPOMIOY [E]m KAEYKATEYS [eES]MO«l>OPIOY em lepWNOc APieMITIOY MAPSYA nANAMOY Em nAYSANIA eESM04>0PI0Y Em OEAI AHTOY GE2M00PI0Y EPI SENO ANTOY KAPNEIOY Em SENO •PQNTOS APTAMITIOY Em . . . [0]P C H 2 written in lilack on vase A with four handles. INSCRIPTIONS ON TILES. 1. 2. 3. On large Flanged Tile. |Ae| On fragment of ditto. <^B A 2 I A I K t^ On fragment ditto. (K . . . 4. On fragment. (A <5 X : anyovTOC.? 5. On Pipe. APX0NT02 YriAIN0NT0 2. rV. UNCERTAIN The first six are probably of Rhodes. 1. Antimachus. ANTIMAXOY 1 f^ < vy^ 2. Aglombrotus. Eni AFAO YMBPOTOY 3. Ai-istion. APISTIQNOS 4. Dracon. APAKONT . . Z^- — 'W5^ (' Ancliiir ") <_ _____tJ; \J:\ni^lHJl.J 5. Marsyas. MAP §& SYA 6. Pausanias. nAYSANIA 7._ Ehodon. POAQ N02 8. AY . . . INXAAY: 9. ^x\^ npo 4-1 AIQ 10. ^I ) 11. (g) PLATE XII. ©@Q[K]i [F@1U]1K1© \im TKll [E^©/^^.^Ta@l Published by Smitli. Elder, aod Co., London, 18i7 DESCRIPTION OF THE COINS FOUND. 107 Obverse.— BAClAenc MIOPAAATOY. The head of the kintr, v\dth a diadem. Reverse. — Lion's skin, suspended on a club (symbol of Hercules), between a bow case (bow projecting from it) and a trident. Underneath, are the numeral letters IB (12), indicative of the value of the coin. Plate 12 represents a few of the coins discovered. None of these were found in the tombs; they were chiefly picked up in the soil while prosecuting the search. Mr. Vaux has favoured me with the following numismatic description of the coins : — 1. Panticap^um. Obv. Head of Pan to left, with wreath of vine-leaves. HAN. Lion's head to left. Below, fish. 2. Panticapjeum. Obv. Head of Pan to rigfht. PAN. Fore part of gryphon to left. Below, fish. 3. Panticapjeum. Obv. Head of Pan to left. PAN. Above, quiver and arrow. 4. Phanagoria. Obv. Male head, unbearded, to right. Quiver and mon. 5. Sauromates IL (A.D. 13—16.) Obv. Tl. lOY A€WC CAYPOMATOY. Bust, diademed, of Tib. Julius Sauromates II. to right. Victory with olive wreath, and MH. 6. Ehescuporis II. (A.D. 16 — 37.) Obv. Diademed head of Ehescuporis II. to right. TAIOY ANIKOY . . Bearded head of Tiberius the Emperor to right. 108 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. 7. Rhescuporis II. (A.D. 17 — 38 ) Obv. Head of Rhescuporis II., diademed, to right. Behind, mon. ; in front, ib. TIBEPIOY KAIZAPOC. Bare head of the Emperor Tiberius, neck undraped. 8. CoTYS I. (A.D. 49—69.) Obv. TEIMA. Curule chair, on which a crown. To right, a staff surmounted by a bust. TOY ACFOYPFOY. Trophy composed of a buckler and lance in centre. To right, a head of a man, and a sword (?); to left, horse's head; below, KA. 9. Sauromates III. (A.D. 94—128.) Obv OC CAYPOM[AT]OY. Curule chair, on which a wreath. To right, a staff with a head on it ; to left, a shield or a patera. VII. within a wreath of oak -leaves. 10. Sauromates IV. (A.D. 175—210.) BACiAEQC Head of Sauromates IV. diademed ; long hair flowing down on neck. In front, trident. MH in a wTcath of laurel. 11. Sauromates IV. (A.D. 175—210.) Obv. BAClAeoC CAYPOMATOY. Bearded and diademed head of Sauromates IV. to right. In front, circle of eight dots. Eagle standing to left, with wreath in beak. PMA. 12. Ininthimeyus. (Probably A.D. 235—239.) Obv. BACIA Busts of the King and of Serapis fronting one another. A female seated to left, wearing turreted head-dress. PART III. REMARKS ON THE ETHNOLOGICAL AND PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CRIMEA. REMAMS ON THE ETHNOLOGICAL AND PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OP THE CRIMEA. THE KERAIM JEWS— THE TARTARS — MUD VOLCANOES— A PERILOUS SITUATION — NAPHTHA AND SULPHUR SPRINGS— CHEMCAL ANALYSIS OF THE FLUDDS-GEO- LOGICAL FORMATION OF THE CRIMEA — DESCRIPTION OF THE FOSSIL SHELLS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS BROUGHT FROM KERTCH — DEPTH OF THE SEA OF ^VZOFF-EARLY CHRISTLVN CHURCH AT KERTCH-PHANAGORIA— CONCLUSION. Besides the historical remains, there are other deeply interesting subjects connected with this once classic country, and I know of none more so, in an ethnological point of view, than the history, so far as we can trace it, of the Keraim Jews; who may be considered the descendants of the aborigines of the country. For, unlike others of their race, they have never been wanderers. Their ovm. tradition is that the Crimean settlement was formed prior to the birth of our Saviour. They state that their original country was Georgia, and that they were carried from Jerusalem to Media by Musul Padishah, the King of Nineveh. Herodotus makes mention of a tribe whom he found in this countrv, distinguished from all others by wearing a black garb, called Melanchloni ; these may possibly be the Keraim, who formerly had settlements at Eupatoria and other cities. It is asserted by some that they are one of the lost tribes : first, because they are called black Jews, in order to distinguish them from the rest of their brethren in Poland ; and, secondly, because they differ from other Jews in following the Torah or law, instead of the Talmud, for their religious guide, and in keeping different fasts. They are the only known Jewish people who cultivate the ground. The valley in which their city stands is called Jehosaphat ; but their residence is on the top of a rocky range about two miles from Baktcheserai. 112 ANTIQUITIES OF KEHTCH. Their fortified town was called Phoulli by the ancients ; the citadel being on the heights, where they live like eagles in the clefts of the rocks, which they have hewn into houses. It is a singular circumstance that they should live secluded from the rest of mankind, and have been permitted to do so, amidst the strife of parties, from time immemorial, in the free exercise of their ancient customs. Unlike the children of Israel elsewhere, they are clean and neat both in their persons and habits; their honesty is proverbial in the Crimea, and their character is w^ithout reproach. There appears to be little doubt that this sect separated from the main stem in the very earliest period of Jewish history. It is a significant fact that their numbers do not increase. There are about two hundred houses in the town occupied by the same number of families, twelve hundred inhabitants in all; and this appears always to have been their population. In their Synagogue they have the holy Tabernacle, containing the sacred writings in Hebrew on a roll of parchment; and they say that they have the text in its most genuine state. Their little town is called Tchoufont Kaleh, or the fortress of the Jews. A road cut in the rock, and joining that which leads to the southern coast, is the only communication to this singular establishment, which is surrounded by a strong wall, entered by gates which are carefully closed every evening. These Keraim Jews have always enjoyed special privileges ; as for instance, immunity from supplying labour for fortifications, mosques, fountains, and other public buildings. They say that these privileges were granted them for services rendered in ancient times to the Khans of the Tartars. But Peyssonel attributes the real origin of them to the services of a Jewish doctor, who having been fortunate enough to cure an Oulukhaneh, or one of the great female dignitaries, as a reward obtained for his countrymen the exemption noticed above. Their dress THE KERAIM JEWS. 113 somewhat resembles that of the Tartars, and they use a dialect of the Tartar language to which they give the name Djagaltai. Henderson, in his " Biblical Researches in Russia," says that the name Keraim comes from the Hebrew word " Kara," in Scripture ; they are also frequently called " Beni mukra," or sons of the text, and " Bala mukra," masters or possessors of the text. With respect to the sect in general it claims a very high antiquity, and seems originally to have been the same with that of the Sadducees, one of the three principal sects which divided the Jewish nation about two hundred years before the birth of our Lord. One of the distinguishincr tenets of the Sadducees was their strict adherence to the letter of the law, to the entire exclusion of traditional interpretation ; and some authors of note have conjectured that the errors which that sect taught at the time of our Lord formed no part of the primitive creed, but that it was the adoption of them by Sadek which made the sect divide into Sadducees, and those afterwards called Keraim ; whom Prideaux takes to be the Scribes so frequently mentioned in the New Testament. Keraim Jews are also found in Grand Cairo, and in many of the countries between India and Poland. The principal point of difference between them and the Rabbinical or Pharisaical Jews consists, as has been already shown, in their rejection of the oral law, and their rigid appeal to the text of Scripture as the exclusive and only infallible source and test of religious truth. They, therefore, glory in the name of Karaites, or Scripturists ; an epithet which was at first given them by their enemies. The following observations on this most interesting and important subject are compiled from Haxthausen (Etudes xi.) : — The Keraim are a sect of Jews about whose origin there are two opinions — one, that they are descendants of the tribe of Judah who never returned from Babylon; the other, that they are descended from the ten tribes. The former is the account they give of themselves. At any 114 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. rate it seems pretty well ascertained that they took no part in the crucifixion of our Lord, and have a certain sort of respect for the prophet Jesus, as being, like themselves, of the tribe of Judah. Their origin dates before the Talmud, which they do not receive, and they say that the descendants of the ten tribes are to be found in China and Eastern Asia : these latter are, no doubt, the chief instigators of the insurrection in China. There are about six thousand of these Keraim in Russia, who are found chiefly in the governments of Cherson, Tauris, Volhynia, Wilna, Kowno, and the Caucasus. In the Crimea they possess large orchards and vineyards, fields and farms. From documents in the possession of the Historical Society at Odessa, it is evident that the Keraim already occupied the Crimea in the eighth century, and had at that time arrived at a high degree of civilization. Among the fifty-one manuscripts which, with fifty-eight inscriptions, are preserved at Odessa, there are several manuscripts of the Bible, and parts of it, the readings of which are said to differ in some important respects from the received versions. The Old Testament among the Keraim is arranged differently from the Vulgate, and, as will be conjectured from what has been already said, wants the Apocrypha, but contains the books of Ezra and Nehemiah ; these the Keraim are thought to have obtained from Jerusalem, with which city they kept up a connection after they were carried into captivity. Two magnificent manuscripts of the thirteenth century contain, besides the Hebrew text of the books of Moses, the Chaldee version of Onchelus of these same books. This version will, without doubt, throw a light on many difficult passages in the original. A manuscript which was written in Persia in 918, and carried into the Crimea in the twelfth or thirteenth century, contains the books of the later prophets, and deserves to be also carefully examined. Philology and paleography will be equal gainers by the study of all these scientific treasures. They THE KERAIM JEWS. II5 furnish a certain proof that Judaism among the Keraim, or Jews in the Crimea, has had a special development in two directions— that of relio-ion to and social life, the central point of which was not in Palestine or at Babylon— the classic land of Talmudism— but in Persia. It is from this last country that they arrived on the shores of the Black Sea, takino- their course by the Caucasus. In all these manuscripts, in juxtaposition with the text, are found a number of very curious remarks respecting the donor of the manuscript, and the synagogue to which it was given; sometimes also allusions to contemporaneous events. In one of these notes, which dates from the first half of the tenth century, mention is made of the first appearance of the Talmudist Jews in the Crimea, which took place about that time. It is evident from this passage that the Keraim, or Jews of the Crimea, had no previous acquaintance with the Talmud, that no tradition then extant among them mentioned that they had separated themselves from the Talmud, or lived in a state of hostility with it; but that they had always held strictly to the text of the Bible, as their brethren in Central Asia, China, and Thibet yet do. The author expresses, without any feeling of hostility, his astonishment and scruples with regard to the new doctrine (the Talmud), and recommends it to the justice and wisdom of Providence. Here, then, is an irresistible proof that the Keraim of those times, far from considering themselves as a sect which had separated from the rest of the Jews, remained altogether Jews both in their sentiments and character, and, proud of having preserved among themselves the old Jewish religion in all its purity, looked upon the Talmudists as apostates. The Tartars can hardly now be said to form a nation. After the conquest of the Crimea by the Eussians, all those who did not wish to remain under the sway of Russia were allowed to emigrate; many availed themselves of the permission, and retired into Turkey, so that their numbers were few, even before the war. Since the conclusion of peace, thousands have voluntarily left the country, to settle in the Turkish 116 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. Bessarabian provinces ; in terror lest they, too, should have shared the fate of hundreds of their friends, who for aiding the Allies during the period the combined armies occupied the Crimea, were sent to Siberia. Chagin Girreh Khan was the last sovereign. In 1774, the country was subdued by the Empi'ess Catherine, and he abdicated the throne voluntarily ten years afterwards. In prosecuting my researches, I discovered about a dozen of his coins. The town of Yenikali, seven miles from Kertch, is situated on the north-eastern point of the peninsula of the Cimmerian Bosphorus. It was called by the ancients Myrmecium. To the north, and also to the westward of this town, we find the celebrated mud volcanoes, the naphtha and sulphur springs. The former have been perpetually in activity for a very long period of time. The principal crater, which seems the patriarch of all this volcanic formation, is a cone completely isolated, of five hundred feet in diameter, and thirty-five in height. Its summit has a depression of six feet, filled by a pond of mud and water, seventy feet long and thirty- five feet wide. There are numerous smaller craters in the same locality, a distance of three or four miles perhaps intervening. A cluster of pyramidal-shaped cones on elevated spots, and a total absence of verdure, mark the site of these volcanoes ; a circular basin of water being invariably placed, as it were, close to the cone. The water, being thickly impregnated with plastic mud, is of a glutinous nature ; but there is a continual motion on the surface, and sometimes this is more active than usual. The appearance which the glutinous water at first presents, when in active motion, is that of a sudden shock given to the entire body of fluid, doubtless produced by the emission of the gas from a crater at some unfathomable depth ; then follows a heaving of the liquid at the sides ; the centre then rises, as if some huge animal were about to emerge from the depths below, and, ascending a few feet, bursts with an explosion. There is now a moment of repose ; the MUD VOLCANOES. 117 concussion that the water has received causes it to overflow the rim of the basin ; then follows another heave, and the same process is repeated. The pyramidal cones of mud are in several stages of antiquity : in every one is a crater, through which thick bituminous mud sluggishly bubbles forth. The site on which each cone stands was doubtless at one time a circular basin of water, which gradually became choked up with mud, and assumed its present conical form. Around these cones are innumerable small apertures in the earth, which exist for a few days or hours ; these becoming choked up, burst out on the sides ; and so it goes on. Much caution is necessary in approaching these mud volcanoes. The superficial crust of the earth, dried and hardened by the heat of the sun, has an appearance of solidity, and tempts one to approach nearer than is prudent. The surface trembles, and on placing the ear close to it, a deep, rumbling commotion is heard in the bowels of the earth, showing that all is not so quiet within as without. The mud thrown out is a homogeneous clay, of a cindery blue colour, mixed with particles of mica and sand. The erupted matter is merely warm, not boiling; showing that the heat which expels the gas is not intense. Sometimes this gas bursts into a flame ; a violent commotion follows, and the water boils forth in a huge stream, mixed with stones and calcined mud : the appearance of the ground around corroborates this fact. I applied a match to the gas, but could not get it to ignite ; possibly because the emission of gas was not continuous. Mons. Bootmy, already referred to, informed me that on the 27th February, 1794, the inhabitants were alarmed by a succession of loud explosions from these volcanoes ; a prodigious discharge of salt ^^scous mud was vomited forth, flooding the country ; and this was followed by a column of fire rising perpendicularly. The volcanoes on the eastern side of the Straits were similarly affected at the time. These sudden eruptions may be accounted for in this manner. The springs of naphtha or petroleum found in this neighbourhood make it not 118 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. improbable that a stratum of coal lies not far below the surface; that it passes across the Bosphorus, and that it is always in a state of ignition. The centre of the action of the volcano is below the sea ; and these openings, like chimneys of the infernal regions, permit the escape of the gas ; the water and mud usually evolved being, perhaps, at no great depth. But on the admission of the water from the sea, the vapour thus generated, or perhaps the decomposition of the water, produces the explosion and the column of fire. I have said that it is necessary to approach these saline mud gulfs with caution. But it is not easy for a stranger to discover their position. In company with two friends, we had been in search of them for some days. There are some small springs close to Kertch, on the south ; but we were desirous of seeing those of larger dimensions situated towards the Sea of Azoff, to the north-west. One day, from a height, we observed, at a distance of about two miles before us, ground which appeared to mark out their position ; but it was beyond the line of our piquets, and on that occupied by the Cossack videttes. My friends thought it imprudent to risk the chance of being made prisoners by proceeding so far ; but being well mounted, I ventured to risk it ; and on approaching a little closer, I perceived that it was the exact spot we had been looking for, and galloped up to it. Carried away by the novel and very interesting sight, I failed to observe that my horse was placidly descending into the mud; and so gently did he sink, that he did not appear to feel in the slightest degree incommoded, until the mud was well above his fetlocks. He then began to struggle, and became alarmed at the bubbling of the water ; I therefore dismounted, when of course I stuck in the mud also. With much difficulty I extricated the horse, and was sitting on the bank of a stream washing my boots, when I observed a dismounted Cossack on an eminence about a quarter of a mile off. In a few minutes afterwards he was galloping off in an opposite direction to where I sat ; and, watching him, ANALYSIS OF THE VOLCANIC PRODUCTS. 119 I perceived he was joined by another. I now saw that I should have to run for it ; and there was some very bad ground before me, soft and cut up with ravines. But being mounted on a strong Irish horse, although a little lame from a wound which he had received at Inkermann, I was soon far beyond the reach of the Cossacks ; who came down to the mud springs in two divisions of three, no doubt fully expecting to catch me there. On a previous occasion I cut into one of these cones, and when sufficiently close to the crater tapped it. There was at first a rapid rush of water through the aperture from above; then a sputtering from below. That portion of the cone above the injured part gradually sank into the centre of the crater and disappeared ; the sides fell in, and the mouth of the crater became considerably extended. The fluid flowing from these volcanoes is called by the Russians " Neft." Boiled up with sand, it forms an excellent pavement. It smells strongly of sulphuretted hydrogen, and doubtless possesses considerable antiseptic property ; for the carcase of an unfortunate horse that had sunk into it up to the neck in the month of January, probably tempted by the water to approach to drink when the frost had sealed up every other pool, was, in the month of June, to judge from the appearance of the head, as fresh as on the day it went in. Specimens of the mud from the volcanoes, and of the naphtha and water from the sulphur springs, were submitted to Mr. Eichter, the analytical chemist, in the laboratory of Messrs. Savory and Moore, and he has favoured me with the following analysis thereof. " The naphtha resembles, in its physical properties, Barbaboes tar, impure rock oil, bitumen, or petroleum, products of organic matter (wood, coal, &c.) decomposed either by heat or by spontaneous action under the surface of the earth. Its specific gravity is 0-940. Insoluble in water, sparingly soluble in alcohol, but readily so in aether. It burns with a smoky flame. Subjected to distillation it yielded three different fluids. 120 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. which were acted upon by solvents similar to the above. The residue left was hard and brittle, which, on exposure to heat, was found to resemble asphaltine. "The sample of water was of specific gTa\dty 1*011. It was strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen and free carbonic acid. Two ounces evaporated to dryness left the following residue : — Chloride of sodium 3-8 grains. Carbonate of soda 0*4 ,, Sulphate of soda O'G ,, Carbonate of lime 0'3 „ Chloride of calcium 0*7 ,, Carbonic acid not determined. Sulphuretted hydrogen ditto. 5.8 grains. " The mud resembles that usually found in places where bitumen exudes from the earth, the principal constituents in it being alumina, with more or less silica, while the soluble consisted of lime, magnesia, soda, and peroxide of iron, in combination with hydrochloric and nitric acids." With reference to the geological formation of the Crimea, Mr. William H. Baily, in a paper read before the meeting of the British Association, at Cheltenham, remarks as follows : — " The most ancient deposits of the Crimea are those at the base of the Jurassic formation, described as black schists, composed of hard, soft, and ferruginous beds, which are probably equivalent to the trias or new red sandstone appearing in the valley of Baidar and other localities, and on the coast, where they are superimposed by the lias. Overlying the schists of the lias are the Jurassic rocks, which extend along the southern sea coast from Balaklava to the vicinity of Theodosia GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS FROM KERTCH. 121 or Kaffa, a length of about one hundred miles. This mountain chain of hard and crystalline limestones, pierced and broken into by volcanic eruptions, of greenstone, porphjTy, &c. &c., is, with its associated strata, analogous to that of the Caucasus, and proceeds in a direction E.N.E. to S.S.W., its highest point being the Tchatir Dagh or Tent Mountain, of an elevation of 5,135 feet. The bay of Balaklava is enclosed on both sides by steep and rugged rocks of the Jurassic formation, composed of compact red and gray limestones, in which are clefts filled with a reddish clay. These limestones and clays contain numerous organic remains, the most abundant of which are corals and echinodermata. The newer Caspian occupies the still more northern extremity of the Crimea, extending to Perekop, Kherson, and the shores of the sea of Azof. The environs of Kertch and Taman are the most favourable localities to observe its characters, and here the fossils are in good preservation. The existence of coal has been often rumoured ; but on examination the supposed coal has proved to be lignite of very ordinary quality. Deposits of hydrate and phosphate of iron have been met with near Kertch, Taman, and other parts of the Crimea." The following letter from the same gentleman gives an interesting description of some geological specimens which I brought from Kertch : — Museum of Practical Geology, Jennyn-street, January 16, 1857. Dear Sir, — I beg to forward, at Sir Roderick Murchison's request, a short description of the geological specimens and fossil shells collected in the neighbourhood of Kertch, and presented by you to this Institution. 1. Soft shelly limestone of brackish water origin, mostly composed of fragments, with some perfect valves of cardium and dreissena from the " !Xewer Caspian," belonging to the upper tertiary formation, found in extensive beds on the coast to the south of Kertch, 2. Sandy limestone made up of finely comminuted shells and quartz grains, containing fossil bivalve shells somewhat perfect but sparingly 122 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. distributed. Upper tertiary. Quarries near Kertch, from which the town is built. 3. Sandy limestone, probably same as No. 2. (Forming the sides of the great shaft opened at Kertch, May 1856.) 4. " Eschara limestone," from the so-called " Polype rocks," composed of Eschara lapidosa. Pallas. These rocks, from their fantastic shapes, are called the Throne of Mithridates, and are entirely composed of the remains of bryozoa. (M. Huot, writing on the geology of this country in Demidoff, says it contains two distinct species.) 5. Impure argillaceous limestone, three feet in thickness, forming the mouth of the great shaft. It rests on a deep bed of white calcareous clay, passing in some places to 5^ clay iron-stone. 6. Clay iron-stone from mud volcanoes. (From the neighbourhood of the volcanic mud springs.) 7. Ferruginous limestone : fossiliferous. (From the neighbourhood of the volcanic mud springs.) 8. Chert. (From the neighbourhood of the volcanic mud springs.) List of Fossil Shells. Cardium ovatum (Deshayes) 3 specimens. ,, paucicostatum „ carinatum „ macrodon(?) „ incertum (?) „ Verneuilli (?) Myoconcha aperta (Mytilus) Dreissena inaequivalvis (Mytilus) ,, Paludina achahnoides Deposits of hydrate and phosphate of iron have been discovered near Kertch, Taman, and other parts of the Crimea. A foundry was formerly 2 55 2 )? )) The interior contains )? phosphate of iron. 5> ilus) )> [ytilus ')„ )) . 1 n FOSSIL SHELLS IN IRON ORE. 123 established near Kertch, and the iron worked by M. Gourieff. — (Pallas.) From an analysis of a specimen of this iron ore, containing fossil shells, bv Hussein Effendi, of the Government School of JNIines, Jermj-n-street, it gave but 19'234 per cent. These fossil shells are found associated with bands of iron ore in the neighbourhood of Kertch and other parts of the Crimea, the univalves being mostly of fi-esh water origin, associated with peculiar forms of cardiacea and mytili common to partially saline or brackish water. — (Murchison's Eussia, p. 298, &c.) With respect to this particular group of shells, they form, according to Mr. Woodward, a distinct set, being included by him in what he designates the Aralo Caspian pro^'inces• — (Woodward's Manual of the Mollusca. Parts 2 and 3.) " The only inland salt seas," he says, " that contain peculiar shell fish are the Aral and Caspian. The shells consist chiefly of a remai'kable group of cockles, which burrow in the mud. Species probably existing in these seas have been found in the beds of horizontal limestone, which form their banks and extend in all directions far over the steppes. This limestone is of brackish water origin, being sometimes composed of myriads of cyclades, or the shells of dreissena and cardium, as in the islets near Astrakhan. It is believed to indicate the former existence of a great inland sea, of which the Aral and Caspian are remnants ; but which Mas larger than the present Mediterranean at an age previous to that of the mammoth and Siberian rhinoceros.'" — (Woodward's Manual of Mollusca. Part 3, p. 365.) Pallas was the first propounder of the belief in a great inland retired sea. Ships proceeding to the Sea of Azofi" are all surveyed at Kertch ; the amount of ballast each convevs is registered, in order that all mav be put on shore at Taganrog, or any other port to which they are bound. 124 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. This is the law. But the system that obtains in Russia enables the Custom-house authorities to evade it in this instance, as they usually do in all other cases. They give the master of the craft a false certificate, receiving a bribe in return ; and as the former approaches his port, the ballast is thrown overboard, and one or two boat-loads only are landed. This circumstance, coupled with the large quantities of earth brought down by the rivers, renders the Sea of Azoff daily more difficult of navigation. It has been remarked, that fi'om the year 1706 to the year 1808, the depth of this sea has diminished three feet, and from this latter date to the year 1833, it has again diminished three feet, so that it has lost six feet in 127 years. Guthrie records that a volcanic island suddenly appeared, and as suddenly disappeared in this sea, at some remote date. No coal has been discovered in the Crimea; but it is known to exist at Tiflis, and at Heraclea on the Asiatic coast ; and on the Don, anthracite coal, having ninety-four per cent, of carbon, is found in large quantities. This coal is difficult to light ; but when once kindled, it burns with an intense white heat for a long period, and without smoke. Portions of it become fluid just prior to its ignition, and seem like molten lead. I have been informed that it extends for a distance of two thousand miles in the country of the Don Cossacks ; each of whom has a patch, which they work according to their own peculiar fancy. Prior to the war, a company was formed to work these mines. The price of the coal at Kertch, before hostilities broke out, was eleven silver copecks per pood, or equal to twenty-one shillings per ton English. The only thing worthy of notice in the modern town of Kertch, is the church. On this spot the temple of Esculapius is said to have stood, in which Strabo records that the priest placed a bronze vase which had burst with the frost, as a proof of the severity of the climate. There are four short marble columns supporting the cupola of the church ; on one of these the date of its erection is shown to have been in the TDMULI AT PHANAGORIA. 125 vear of the world 6265, or 757 of our era. The pictures suspended on the walls are the earliest productions of Greek art which came here with the introduction of Christianity, and prove the extent of its propagation at that remote date. The plan of the building is that of a Greek cross, with very short transepts and a cupola rising in the middle ; which lights the centre bv eiofht narrow windows. On the opposite side of the straits, at Phanagoria, there are some immense Tumuli, and the ruins of that ancient Greek city can still be traced. On the proclamation of peace. Captain Commerell took the Snake across, in order to receive an English and a French prisoner taken by the Russians in a skirmish near Kertch. The authorities merely permitted us to land ; they would not allow us even to inspect the ruins. They received the despatch of which Captain Commerell was the bearer, with a pair of tongs, pierced it well with needles, kindled a fire and fumigated it. There were in ancient times two temples of Venus at Phanagoria, one being dedicated to Venus Apaturia, or the Jilt, from apate, deceit. It was this colony, under the government of his son Pharnaces, that first raised the standard of revolt against Mithridates the Great. The river Kuban, which derives a portion of its stream from the Sea of AzoflF. returns again to the same sea a little to the eastward of Taman. To return to the peninsula of Kertch. Following the south coast, and beyond Akburun, or the White Cape, there is a high cliff. This place in ancient times was covered with vineyards ; the Bay retains its old Greek name of Ambelaki, from Ampelos, a vine. There is a rich mine of phosphated iron and large quantities of fossils here. This cape is called Kamish Burun, or the Blue Cape. A little beyond the iron mine are the ruins of Dia, which occupied the northern point of the entrance of the ancient gulf of Nymphajum. So late as 1830, this was an open port, but now a bar of sand has closed it. The ancient town of the 126 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCII. same name stood here. Further southwards the rocks increase in height, and about eight miles from Kertch, we come to masses of ruins surrounded by a wall almost buried in the earth: this may be the T}Tictaca of Ptolemy. The soil for several feet in depth contains quantities of broken pottery. Strabo speaks of an excellent port at Nymphseum; but it is no lonfjer available. Enormous shoals of herring come close to the shore at this place : as many as 50,000 have been taken at a single haul. The Greeks carried on a large commerce in fish with their mother country from this place. Nympha3um was founded at the same time as Panticapseum. In the time of Mithridates it was still a strong place. Here he lodged the greater part of his army, which he destined for his grand expedition against the Eomans by way of the Danube and the Alps. After his death the city rapidly decayed, and in the time of Pliny existed only in name. Takil Burun, the promontory at the entrance of the Black Sea, where the lighthouse is placed, was probably the site of Akra, mentioned by Strabo. Thirty miles from Kertch, at the place now called Opuk, was the Kimmericum of Strabo. It was a town of great strencrth. The Genoese are supposed to have carried away the remains of the city in order to build Cafia. Kimmericum was not a Milesian city, and there is not a single Tumulus to be seen around it. Diluvian fossils, or such as are now found in the sea in their fresh state, are seen in extensive beds along the coast ; but it is a curious fact, that in the mountains the fossil shells discovered are not products of the surrounding seas. Game abounds around Kertch. There are duck and teal of every description ; large and small bustard in abundance ; partridges, quails, snipe, woodcocks, and hares of a very large size, are found in great numbers, and are remarkable for their fine flavour. DurinjT his residence in Kertch, Captain Eich, of the 71st Eegiment, Highlanders, SOIL, VEGETATION, ETC. 127 made a very beautiful collection of upwards of one hundred varieties of birds. The exportable commodities from the Black Sea in ancient times were — com in profusion, meat dried or cured, hides and furs, timber and white slaves. It supplied quantities of honey, which held the place of sugar ; wax, and tarichos, or fish pickled in salt. The fish which predominate are the small tunny, the large spineless sturgeon — for their vertebrae are merely cartilaginous rings — and the delicate caviare. A large portion of the wealth of the people consisted in their fisheries ; and they must have yielded profits exceeding those of agriculture. Other merchandise also found its way to the Euxine from the interior of Asia, and from India by way of the Caspian and the Phasis. Among the articles purchased with these superfluities the principal were wine and oil. The soil around Kertch is composed of marl and lime belonging to the new tertiary or diluvian formation. The surface-soil is extremely fertile, and produces rich crops with little trouble. It rests on a bed of calcareous clay or soft limestone, composed of sand and shell compressed into a solid mass. There are no trees, and but few shrubs, to be seen ; but the herbaceous vegetation is extremely rich, and it sometimes attains a height of four feet, without any coarseness. This prolific vegetation is very general on the steppes of Southern Kussia, where the " tchorno-zern," or black earth, a deposit of amazing fertility, is found. Sir K. Murchison says it occupies an area of 180 millions of acres in European Russia, and varies from a few feet to fifteen and twenty feet in thickness. Its extreme fertility is attributed to the unusually large quantity of nitrogen which it contains, and its origin is referred to the period when the Russian Continent was still submerged; the tchomo-zem being the mud then at the bottom of the sea. 128 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. CONCLUSION. The question has often been asked me, What prompted you to com- mence these researches ? and how did you find time to carry tliem on ? To this I reply, that Mr. Vaux, of the British Museum, as well as the late Sir K. Westmacott, urged inquiry. A practical and useful paper of instructions, drawn up by the former gentleman, was placed in my hands ; and although my official avocations abundantly occupied my time, I was ably assisted by the kind friends referred to in the preface and elsewhere ; without whose aid I could not have succeeded. Those only who have had experience in similar explorations can form an idea of the toil and labour necessary in the prosecution of researches of this description. Like the gold-digger, it is quite a lottery : to one prize there is fully a score of blanks. To prosecute investigations of this sort, one should be alone with his workmen. There are many, doubtless, in the army who take an interest in archaeological researches ; but there are others who laugh at the science. The workmen not unfrequently turned up iron nails, black bottles, broken plates, &c., which had been neatly introduced into the excavations. Fabulous sums were given for antiquities of every description, and the honesty of the workmen was sorely put to the test ; and although it was well known that I prosecuted inquiries with the view to add my mite to our noble collection in the British Museum, I was sometimes obliged to have recourse to the same system of outbidding the highest bidder, in order to secure the results of my own labours. But we suffered most from the peculations of the Tartars. They systematically robbed us, and have been caught actually at work with pick and spade in our holes after we had left for the night. On one occasion, CONCLUSION. 129 on removinfT the stone in the morning and entering a tomb which we were unable to explore the evening previously, we found that everything had been removed. The end of a tallow candle and some lucifer-matches were left as relics, clearly showing that the Tartars had paid a visit to the place at night, and, after removing everything, had replaced the stone at the door. A ready and lucrative sale for all articles of antiquity was always to be had. The task which I have attempted to perform would worthily occupy undivided attention, profound scholarship, and archaeological skill. Without these, but with the weighty responsibility of superintending the health of an army in a hostile country, I hope that in promptly meeting the emergency under such circumstances, and in subsequently bringing my labours to this issue, while preparing to return to India, the learned critic will find a motive for regarding any defects with an indulgent eye. When the alternative lies between doing nothing or doing one's best — " The native hue of resolution Is sicklied o'er -with the pale cast of thought, And enterprises of great pith and moment With this regard, their currents turn awry, And lose the name of action." Let these words of our great dramatist be my apology. Of this, I feel satisfied ; that as a better acquaintance with the shores of the Black Sea led the ancients to change its name from the Axine or inhospitable, to that of the Euxine or hospitable, so will the moderns look upon its present designation as totally inapplicable, considering the flood of light which the diligent research of the antiquary, and the revival of commerce on its coasts, may yet cause it to reflect. None of the countries on the Black Sea are more remarkable than the Crimea. Its unexampled chain of historical associations, marking the 130 ANTIQUITIES OF KERTCH. successive influence of the Median, Grecian, Koman, Tartar, Italian, Ottoman, and Russian sway — its ancient and mediaeval remains — its inter- esting geographical, geological, ethnological, and climatic peculiarities, too various to specify in a farewell paragraph — are so many assurances that the interest which has been excited by conflict will not be allowed to slumber in peace ; but will rather be amply satisfied by those whose pursuits are more intimately associated than mine with such investigations. THE END, London : Printed by Smith, Elder and Co., Little Green Arbour Court, E. C. ifit of <^uljfi4rilri}^rr). HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT. THE ROYAL LIBRARY, BUCKINGHAM PALACE. HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF BUCCLEUCH. mS GRACE THE DUIvE OF DEVONSHIRE. LORD HARRIS, LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR OF MADRAS. THE RIGHT HON. MARQUIS OF LANSDOWNE. LORD TALBOT DE MALAHIDE, PRESIDENT OF THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. 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