0977 *\ HUNTERS RECEIPTS IN COOKERY. Published as the Act directs Jand id20 by John Murray Albemarle Street London. RECEIPTS MODERN COOKERY; WITH A #lcfctcal ^ommentarui, BY A. HUNTER, M.D. F.R.S. L.&E. Magister artis, Ingeniique largitor Venter . Feksius. A NEW EDITION. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET: SOLD ALSO BY LONGMAN, BALDWIN, RICHARDSON, LACKINGTON, WHITTAKER, UNDERWOOD, LONDON; WILSON, YORK; MOZLEY, DERBY; MANNERS AND MILLER, AND OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH; CUMMING, KEENE, AND MILLLIKEN, DUBLIN : And by every Bookseller and Newsman in Town and Country. 1820 LONDON: PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WHITEFRIARS 1) E D I C A T 1 O N. To those Gentlemen who freely give two Guineas for a Turtle Dmner at the Tavern , when they might have a more wholesome one at Home for ten Shillings , this Work is humbly dedicated, by IGNOTUS. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/receiptsinmodernOOhunt PREFACE. The art of cookery boasts an origin coeval with the creation of man; but in its early stages we must suppose that it was directed only to the wants and necessities of mankind. In process of time, invention was employed in rendering ani¬ mal and vegetable substances more inviting to the palate, with a view to add pleasure to the natural necessity of eating. And that this was the origin of refined cookery cannot be ques¬ tioned. Apicius seems to have cultivated the art with great assiduity, being in his own person a gourmand of quality. There were three per¬ sons of that name, all lovers of good eating; but Caelius Apicius, who lived in the time of Tiberius, is the one who has left us the history of Roman cookerv. — Of this book, the best edition was printed in London, in the year 1705, with notes VI PREFACE. by Dr. Martin Lister, physician to Queen Anne. It contains a variety of sauces, as well as an account of the choicest dishes served up at the tables of the Roman nobility; but which, accord¬ ing to our notions of good eating, are no better than what may be seen in the kitchen of a Hot¬ tentot. I have consulted Homer, Aristophanes, Aristotle, Athenteus, &c. in order to obtain some knowledge of the Grecian cookery, but have not been able to collect any thing worthy of notice beyond the black broth of Lacedaemon, which probably was the same as sheep’s head broth, well known and deservedly admired by the in¬ habitants of our sister kingdom ; and long may it, and roast beef, be the pride and glory of this happy island. Dishes simple in themselves, and easily prepared, mark the manners and morality of a nation. When England discards roast beef and plum pudding, and Scotland ceases to pride herself on sheep’s head broth and oatmeal por¬ ridge, we may fairly conclude that the nations are about to change their manly and national cha¬ racters. It may be objected to me, that I am endeavouring to accelerate this degeneracy ; but, in truth, I have no such intention : my design is, to be of use to gentlemen of the medical line, PREFACE. Vll by laying before them a list of the most approved dishes served up at the tables of the great; so that when a physician happens to be called in to visit a sick lord, an earl, or a duke, he may be able to prescribe scientifically , having obtained from me the analysis of a great man’s mode of living. The celebrated Ramazini’s treatise on the diseases to which artisans are subject from their manner of working in their respective trades, first suggested to me the idea, that a similar at- tention to the diet of certain classes of men would be of use to the medical practitioner. Unwilling, however, to appear as a professional cook, I have occasionally treated the subject with a degree of levity: but at the same time, I wish to be un¬ derstood as thinking it worthy of serious con¬ sideration. 1 do not consider myself as hazarding any thing when I say, that no man can be a good physician who has not a competent knowledge ot cookery: and in this I am supported by every eminent physician, from Hippocrates down to Sydenham; all of whom were strenuous pro¬ moters of the practice named dietetics ; in other words, 4 cookery.’ Diodorus Siculus informs us that the first via PH F.FACE. kings of Egypt had their whole diet regulated by the physician, and it is whimsical to remark that, with us, the word curare applies to a red herring as well as to a man. In the reign of Edward the Fourth, we find that the diet of the king was directed by the phy¬ sician, and in the Liber Niger Domus Regis Edw. IV. the duty of the physician is distinctly pointed out. r l he language, it is true, is obsolete, but the meaning is standard English. ‘ Docteure of physique, stondeth much in the king’s presence at his meles, councelling or an¬ swering to the kind’s apace which diet is best according, and to tell the nature and operation of all the metes. And much he should talke with the steward, chamberlayne, assewer, and the maister cook, to devise by counsayle what metes or drinks is best according: with the kina.” The wholesome practice of dietetics is now so much neglected by the faculty, that few medical men can tell the difference between a gofer and a pancake. And as the culinary practice of the divine Idippocratcs is likely soon to give way to a system of a different nature, under the agency of tobacco and foxglove, henbane and hemlock, arsenic, and other poisons, 1 have only to lament PREFACE. IX an occasion that must give my friend Archaeus much uneasiness. In the warmth of resentment, lie calls the system 4 theoretical folly a term to which I shall not object, till a better name can be found for it. Now is the time for coroners to make their fortunes. As a subordinate consideration to my design in this publication, I had in view the benefit that would arise to some future member of the So¬ ciety of Antiquaries, who may be disposed to em¬ ploy his time in tracing the progress of cookery from the time of Apicius to his own day. All the books of cookery that I have perused seem to be greatly deficient in the directions given for preparing the respective dishes. A pen¬ nyworth of this, and a pinch of that, are vague expressions, and may prove the source of much doubt in the mind of some future culinary his¬ torian. Even at this day, the same dish cannot be prepared exactly alike by two different per¬ sons. A book of cookery should resemble a college dispensatory, where the quantities are correctly stated, in consequence of the bulk of the composition being previously determined upon; but in the culinary art, where the quantity con¬ tained in the dish cannot be ascertained, we are A- X PREFACE. unavoidably left, in most cases, to depend on the taste and judgment of the cook, into whose hands we commit the health of ourselves and posterity. This work being a collection of the most ap¬ proved culinary receipts, without order or me¬ thod, I flatter myself that the correct housekeeper will not deem it the less worthy on that account. I have not made this collection for the use of the ignorant cook; I therefore wish the receipts to be perused only by such as have made a con¬ siderable progress in the culinary art, and who may be desirous of knowing the alterations and improvements that are daily making by those who have a pride and interest in being considered as at the head of their profession. I do not deny my intention of giving a pleasing gratification to those gentlemen who unfor¬ tunately seem to live only for the ‘ pleasure of eating;’ but at the same time I hope to obtain some credit for making the facultv better ac- quainted with that part of medicine which passes under the name of dietetics. Some persons may consider me (being a me¬ dical man) as one who has stepped out of the line of his profession; but having good grounds for my conduct, I do not feel myself disposed to be PREFACE. Xi of their opinion: on the contrary, I consider myself as having contributed to the advancement of my profession by a due mixture of the utile and dulce. I have not the vanity to suppose that every dish in this small volume will stand the criticism of professed cooks; but in justification of my selection, I beg leave to observe, that most of the receipts have been transmitted to me from persons of established reputation in the culinary art. But before I dismiss this part of the subject that so immediately concerns myself, I beg leave to observe, that however well the dishes may be imagined, they must not be expected to suit every palate; for as Horace says, ‘ I have three guests invited to a feast. And all appear to have a different taste. What shall I give them ? What shall I refuse? What one dislikes, the other two shall choose : And e’en the very dish you like the best. Is acid, or insipid to the rest.’ Ep. 2. Throughout the whole of this collection I have steadily adhered to the opinion of Archa us, for ■whom I entertain the greatest veneration, on account of his impartiality and judgment in all matters that concern the stomach; an organ, XU PREFACE. over which the ancients supposed that he held an uncontrolled dominion. When we consider the delicacy of the internal structure of the stomach, and the high and essen¬ tial consequence of its office, we may truly say, that in spite of the guardianship of Archaeus, it is treated with too little tenderness and respect on our parts. The stomach is the chief organ of the human system, upon the state of which all the powers and feelings of the individual depend. Qui stomachum regem totias corporis esse contendunt, vera niti ratione videntur. Serenus Sammonicus. The stomach is the kitchen that prepares our discordant food, and which, after due macera¬ tion, it delivers over by a certainund ulatory motion, to the intestines, where it receives a fur¬ ther concoction. Being now reduced into a white bamly fluid, it is sucked up by a set of small vessels, called lacteals, and carried to the thoracic duct. This duct runs up the back-bone, and is in length about sixteen inches, but in dia¬ meter it hardly exceeds a crow-quill. Through this small tube the greatest part of what is taken in at the mouth passes, and when it has arrived at its greatest height, it is discharged into the PREFACE. XU1 left subclavian vein; when mixing with the ge¬ neral mass of blood, it becomes, very soon, blood itself. A thousand other operations are carried on in the animal machine, but which it will be unne¬ cessary to mention in this place, they being only secondary agents to the stomach and intestines. Were it possible for us to view through the skin and integuments the mechanism of our bodies, after the manner of a watchmaker when he examines a watch, we should be struck with an awful astonishment! Were we to see the stomach and intestines busily employed in the concoction of our food by a certain undulatory motion ; the heart working, day and night, like a forcing pump; the lungs blowing alternate blasts •, the humours filtrating through innumera¬ ble strainers ; together with an incomprehensible assemblage of tubes, valves, and currents, all actively and unceasingly employed in support of our existence, we could hardly be induced to stir from our places ! IGNOTUS. xrv * A DOMESTIC CHARACTER. To be a good manager, without au ostentatious display of it. To be elegantly neat, without being a slave to dress or furniture. Every thing to stand in its right place. To be easy and affable with your servants, and to allow of no scolding in the kitchen or servants’-hall. The family business to go on as regularly as a good clock, that keeps time without being set always faster or slower. Every one to look easy and contented, and the house work to be done with regularity. To keep a good and plentiful table, but not covered with incitements to gluttony. Let the food be plain and in season, and sent up well dressed. When company is asked, a few well- chosen luxuries may be introduced. This is the criterion of a small but well regulated family. IGNOTUS. CONTENTS. Page Dedication ....... yj Preface ....... v A domestic character . • • . . xv To melt butter ....... i Beef stock for soups . . . . . ib. Veal stock for soups • • • . . 2 Beef gravy . .3 A strong gravy, by some called cullis . . ib. A colouring for sauces ..... 4, A clear brown stock for gravy soups . . ib. A giblet soup. . Marrow bones ..g Macaroni ...... ^ A meagre soup ...... ^ Gravy for white dishes • • • . 8 A brown gravy . . . . . . ib A green pease soup. g Hare soup ..... ib Dutch sour sauce for fish . . . .10 A granada . ^ To boil a ham ••••.. ib To dress a beef steak . . . . .12 b CONTENTS. Page Macaroni . . . . . . .13 To broil a beef steak . . . . .14 A gravy soup . ..... ib. .. 16 A savoury omelette . . . . . ib. A white soup . . . . . .17 A white pease soup . . . . .18 A pickle for the preservation of pork, tong ues, &c. 19 A vegetable soup, with meat . . . .20 To ragou a calf’s head . . . . ib. To stew lobsters . . . . .21 A vegetable soup, with meat . . .22 Gravy for keeping . . . . . ib. A hare soup simple . . . . .23 Malt wine . . .... 24 To stew cod . . . . . .25 A good fish sauce . . . . . ib. A cheap soup ...... 26 To fry a beef steak . . . . . ib. A beef steak dressed hastily in a stewpan . 27 Cabeached cod . . . . . .28 Mutton venison ...... 29 Malt wine ...... ib. A Russian sauce . . . . . .31 Mutton stewed ...... ib. Oyster sausages ...... 32 To stew a duck with cabbage . . . ib. CONTENTS. Page Fish sauce ...... 33 A partridge soup . . . . ib. A macaroni soup . . . . .34 To stew a loin of mutton . . . .35 To stew a fowl in rice . . . . ib. A macaroni pie • • • .36 Anchovy sauce . . . • .37 To stew carp and tench . . . . ib. Macaroni . . . . . . .38 Burnt butter . . . . .39 A carrot soup . . . . . . ib. Water soucby . . . . .40 A simple soup . . . . . . ib. Fish sauce . . . . .41 A carrot soup . . . . .42 A maigre soup . . . . . . ib. A hare soup ... . . .43 A fricandeau of veal . . . . .44 To stew cucumber . . . . .45 A fricandeau of veal . . . . . ib. Mock turtle soup . . . . .46 Fish sauce to keep a year . . . .47 An excellent vinegar . . . .48 To stew beef steaks . . ib. - . .... 49 To roast a calf’s head . . . .50 Macaroni . . . . . . ib. CONTENTS. Page A good mess for a weak or consumptive person 51 Hare soup . . . . . . ib. To make Stilton cheese . . . .52 Beef steaks stewed with cucumber . . .53 To dress dried cod . . . . . ib. Friars’ chickens . . . . .54 Savoury sauce for a roasted goose . . .55 Sauce for cold partridge, or cold meat of any kind ib. A cream cheese . . . . . ib. An omelette ...... 56 An oyster omelette . . . . .57 A salad sauce . . . . .. . ib. A winter salad ...... 58 To boil rice ...... ib. A fried curry ...... 59 Savoury eggs ...... ib. An early spring soup . . . . .60 An omelette . . . . .61 A potatoe omelette . . . . .62 A sauce for cold fowl, veal, &c. . . ib. A dunelm of chicken . . .. . .63 Scotch barley broth . . . . .64 Sheep’s head broth . . . . . ib. A haggis ....... 65 A Carolina pease soup . . . . .68 To dress a beef steak on the moors . . 69 A white soup with vermicelli . . . ib. CONTENTS. Page Balnamoon stink . 70 A sweet-bread pie • 72 To stew carp or tench . . ib. A hare soup • 73 Scotch broth . 74 To dress a calf’s head • 75 A tame duck stewed with green peas 76 A fish pie . 77 Green pease stewed with lettuce and onion 78 Macaroni . ib. Pease pudding . 79 - 1 . ib. A dunelm of mutton . 80 A cheap fish sauce • 81 A savoury shoulder of vca . 82 A fish soup . 83 To butter crabs • 84 Potted beef . ib. A cream cheese • 85 To stew pease • 86 Mutton chops • 87 Pork steaks to stew ib. Fish turtle • 88 Gallina curds and whey . 89 Chocolate cream, in paste • 91 Mock turtle soup . • ib. Crimping fish • 92 b 3 CONTENTS. Page To stew pease .... . 93 Potted beef .... . 94 Savoury jelly . 95 Stewed cod ..... . ib. Eborised woodcocks • 96 Bread for toast and butter • 97 A tame duck stewed with green pease . ib. To stew pease with onion and lettuce . 98 To stew a hare .... . ib. • • • • . 99 To stew partridges . 100 Pease soup, maigre . 101 A fish soup .... . 102 A lobster soup .... . 103 A green pease soup, maigre . 104 A white pease soup, maigre . ib. To roast a fowl with chestnuts . 105 An omelette ..... . 106 An anchovy toast .... . 107 A good broth, commonly called stock • 117 A green pease soup without meat . 118 Savoury hash of mutton or beef . ib. To dress lobsters in the shell • 119 A partridge soup . . 120 A white soup . ... . . ib. A sublingual soup . . 121 . 122 CONTENTS. Page A French soup . . . . .123 A white soup . . . . . . .124 A maigre onion soup . . . . .125 A green pease soup without meat . . .126 - . . . ib. A white dunelm soup . . . . .128 A white soup . . . . . . .129 A veal soup . . . . . . . ib. A vegetable soup . . . . . .130 To hash beef or mutton . . . . .131 An English turtle . . . . . . ib. A French omelette . . . . . .132 Mock turtle . . . . . . ib. Tomata sauce . . . . . . .133 To pot tomatas . . . . . .134 Teased skate . . . . . .135 Mock turtle ... . . . . ib. Mock turtle soup . . . . . .137 Hare soup . . . . . . .138 To boil rice . . . . . . .139 A curry powder . . . . .. .140 A dry curry, or curry without gravy . . ib. A wet curry, or curry with gravy . . .141 A stew of spinage, called brado fogado . .142 A baked pillaw . . . . . .143 Mock turtle . . . . . . . ib. A. green curry . . . . . .144 CONTENTS. Page A cheap curry powder . . . • .145 A rich cream cheese . . • • . ib. An omelette . . • • • . 14G A giblet soup ib. A sauce for cold partridge,, or moor game . 147 A buterham ....... ib. On eggs ... . . . • .148 A green pease soup without meat . . .149 A lobster pie . . . . • .150 . 151 A beef steak pie . . . . . .152 Cucumber vinegar . . . . . ib. A vegetable soup with meat . . . .153 A mock hare ...... ib. Savoury stewed beef . . . . .154 Brisket of beef, stewed savoury . . .155 Brisket of beef, stewed simply . . ib. An Indian burdwan . . . . .156 An English burdwan . . . . .157 A savoury stew . . . . . .158 A Dutch fish sauce . . . . .159 To stew beet root ... ib. Nice onion sauce . . . . . . l 60 A Perigord pie ...... ib. A French apple pudding . . . .162 The head of a liolibut stewed . . . .163 Momentary sauce for cold meat . . ib. CONTENTS. Page A fasting-day’s dish . • . 164 To dress holibut in the manner of Scotch collops ib. Haddocks stewed . • . 165 A stewed cod’s head and shoulders . . 166 A pease soup maigre . . ib. A meagre mess . . 167 A sandwich • • . 168 A partridge soup . • 169 To stew lampreys . • . 170 An omelette . • . ib. Meringues • 171 To boil a ham • . 172 Oyster sauce . . ib. To boil partridges . * • • . 173 White vermicelli soup • . 174 Veal coll ops, white . . ib. Veal collops, brown . v * . 175 To stew pease, mild • . 176 To stew pease, savoury • . ib. Poivrade sauce • • • • 177 A Cheshire sandwich • • . ib. Oyster soup . • . 178 Veal broth • . • . 179 Beef steaks rolled . • • . . 180 Family beef . • . ib. To stew a duck • • • . 181 Spinage and cream • • • . 182 CONTENTS. A ragout of oysters Page . 182 An omelette . * . 183 Solid sausages • • . 184 To stew lobsters, mild • . 185 A dunelm of crab . • « . ib. To stew lobsters • • . 186 Westphalia loaves . • • . ib. Tomata sauce • . 187 A cream cheese . 188 A giblet soup • 1—* GO A fish pie • . 190 A succedaneum for green pease in winter . ib. Sausages without skins . • 191 Mutton rumps o • . ib. A mock turtle soup • c • • . 192 Stewed cod, after the Dutch manner . 194 Mock tomata sauce , , . ib. A shrimp sandwich . . 195 To dress spinage . . 196 Lamb chops • . ib. To stew pease in a savoury way • 197 Beef collops . 198 Trembling beef • • • 199 To stew tench • . ib. To dry haddocks • • . 200 Koumiss . . 202 Welsh beef . 203 CONTENTS. To stew red cabbage .... Page . 204 An oyster pie with sweet-breads . 205 To preserve eggs for eating in the shell . . 206 To roast larks ..... . 207 To dress a cock pheasant . 208 A calf’s head dressed turtle fashion . ib. A Spanish olio ..... • 209 To dress a calf’s pluck .... . 210 To boil a ham ..... . 211 A wholesome soup .... . ib. A brown colouring for made dishes . 213 A mild curry ..... . ib. A fricandeau of veal .... . 214 A green pease soup, with rice . 215 A dish named common sense . 216 To make salt butter fresh • 219 Finale ...<••• . 220 Address ...... . 223 Advertisement . . 231 Men and Manners .... . 233 Index . . .... . 257 ' ' . ■ . € U L I N A FAMULATRIX MEDICINE. To melt Butter. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a plated saucepan, with two tea-spoonfuls of cream. Shake the pan over a clear fire till the butter be com¬ pletely melted. Take care to shake it only one way, and be careful not to put the saucepan upon the fire. OBSERVATION. Some persons put a few spoonfuls of water with a little flour, instead of cream; but then the utmost care must be taken that the flour be uniformly mixed with the butter, as nothing is so unsightl}- as the ap¬ pearance of the flour in lumps. The first method is by far the best. The mixture of water takes from the balsamic sweetness of the butter. Beef Stock for Soups. Cut lean beef into pieces. Put it into a stew £ 9 FAMILY COOKERY, pan with a sufficient quantity of water to cover it. Set it on the fire, and when it boils skim the sur¬ face clean; then add a bunch of parsley, and thyme, some scraped carrots, leeks, onions, tur¬ nips, celery, and a little salt. Let the meat boil till it become tender. Then strain the stock through a fine hair sieve. When wanted, take off the fat. Veal Stock for Soups. Take a knuckle of veal and some lean ham. Cut the meat into pieces, and put it into a stew- pan, with two quarts of water, some scraped car¬ rots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery. Stew the meat down till nearly tender, but do not permit it to be of colour. Add a sufficient quantity of beef stock, and boil all together one hour. Skim the soup free from fat, then strain, and preserve for use. Some game drawn down with the stock will add considerably to its goodness. OBSERVATION. This stock is directed not to be drawn down to a colour, as in its uncoloured state it will answer two purposes: first, for Avhite soups; and secondly, it may be heightened to any colour by the addition of the liquid contrived for colouring sauces. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 3 Beef Gravy. Take four pounds of coarse beef, or any other quantity, and after notching it with a knife, put it into a stewpan with some whole carrots and onions, but no water. Stew over a gentle fire for the space of half an hour, or till all the gravy be drawn from the meat. Then add the required quantity of water, and continue the stewing for three or four hours longer. Strain off the meat, and preserve the gravy for such uses as it may be wanted for. When intended for soups, it will be well to put in part of a knuckle of veal, which will convert the gravy into a jelly. OBSERVATION. When strained and suffered to cool, the fat must not be taken off, as it preserves the gravy. No cook can support the credit of her kitchen without having plenty of gravy at hand. A strong Gravy , by some called Cidlis. Take slices of veal and ham; add celery, car¬ rots, turnips, onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, some allspice, mace, and a little lemon-peel. Put all these into a stewpan, with some water, and draw them down to a light brown colour, but be careful not to let them burn; then add beef stock ; b 2 4 FAMILY COOKERY, boil again, but gently, for a full half hour; skim clear from fat, and thicken with butter and flour. Boil some time longer, and season to the palate, with Cayenne pepper, lemon-juice, and salt. Strain the whole through a proper cloth, or sieve, and add a little of the colouring liquid used for sauces. A Colouring for Sauces. Put a quarter of a pound of lump sugar into a pan, and add to it half a gill of water, with half an ounce of butter. Set it over a gentle fire, stirring it with a wooden spoon till it appear burnt to a bright brown colour; then add some more water: when it boils, skim, and afterwards strain. Retain for use in a vessel closely covered. A clear Broken Stock for Gravy Soups. Take three quarts of veal stock, perfectly clear and free from fat. Add a small quantity of brown¬ ing, so as to make the stock of a good brown colour. Season to the palate with Cayenne pep¬ per and salt. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, and whisk them with some of the stock; then let it WITH OBSERVATIONS. 5 gently boil a few minutes, and strain through a proper cloth or sieve. OBSERVATION. The gravies here mentioned need no commentary, as they are only given to point out to medical men the basis of the soups, and high-seasoned dishes, with which they ought to be acquainted. Cooks conduct the process of extracting gravies in a variety of ways, but they all come to the same termination. A Giblet Soup. Scald a sufficient quantity of giblets, and cut them to pieces; then put them into a stewpan with veal stock, and let them stew till sufficiently tender; then season as for real turtle. Strain off, and add egg yolks, and forced meat balls, with Madeira to the taste. OBSERVATION. This dish resembles turtle soup, and contains a considerable quantity of gout and scurvy; but it may be eat with safety if a meagre soup be now and then interposed. 1 was once so presumptive as to suppose that the seasoning might be weighed out after the manner directed by physicians in their prescriptions, but I soon found that my plan was too mechanical. I have, therefore, abandoned it, and now freely give to the cooks the exercise of their right in ail matters that regard the kitchen. 6 FAMILY COOKERY, An ingenious progenitor of mine, Dr. King; has well observed that ‘ The fundamental principle of all Is what ingenious cooks the relish call: For when the markets send in loads of food, They all are tasteless till that makes them good.' • Art of Cookery. Marrow Bones. Chop, or rather saw, the bones at each end, so as to make them stand quite steady. Saw them in halves, and put a piece of paste into each; set them upright in water, and let them boil a suf¬ ficient time. Serve up the bones on toasted bread. OBSERVATION. This is an ingenious method of preserving the marrow, which is often lost when the bones are boiled in a horizontal position. This dish is not re¬ commended for its elegance, and can only appear when things are served up in a family way. Do not permit the boiling water to come up higher than the paste. Macaroni. Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in water and some beef stock, till it is made suf¬ ficiently tender. When drained, add a gill of cream, an ounce of butter, a few spoonfuls of WITH OBSERVATIONS. 7 gravy, a table-spoonful of the essence of ham, three ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little Cayenne pepper and salt; mix over a fire for a few minutes; and when put into the dish, strew over it some grated Parmesan. Smooth with a knife, and brown with a salamander. OBSERVATION. Macaroni is certainly more wholesome in its sim¬ ple state than when much compounded. The cheese of this country, known by the name of ‘ Trent Bank,’ is a good substitute for Parmesan. A Meagre Soup. Take a pound of butter, and put it into a stewpan, with tw r o coss lettuces, a large handful of the leaves of white beet, three stalks of celery, a little chervil and pot marjoram. To these add six anchovies boned and chopped; stew the whole gently about half an hour; add two quarts of boiling u^ater, with tw o spoonfuls of flour; Cay¬ enne pepper and salt to the taste. Boil a few minutes longer, then serve up hot. OBSERVATION. This dish is a good preservative against gout and scurvy, and is held in great estimation by those phy¬ sicians who have a greater regard for the health of their patients than they have for their fees. 8 FAMILY COOKERY, Gravy for White Dishes. Take a pound and a half of veal cut into thick slices; this will make a pint of gravy. Put the meat into a saucepan with a close cover; add a reasonable quantity of soft water, two onions, a head of celery, a few white pepper-corns, three blades of mace, three cloves, and a little lemon- peel. Stew till all the goodness be got from the meat; then strain and preserve for use. A Brown Gravy. Take beef free from fat, and cut it into slices about an inch in thickness; lay them in a drip¬ ping-pan, with small pieces of butter, and season with a little ground pepper and salt. Place the pan in a brisk oven, that will broil and not burn the meat. When half broiled, score the beef, and put it into a stewpan, with two or three onions, some thyme, pot marjoram, a small bunch of chervil, a few pepper-corns, and two or three cloves; to these put boiling water according to the quantity of gravy wanted. A pound of beef will make a pint of gravy. Stew till all the good¬ ness be drawn from the meat; then strain, having added to it the clean gravy that was left in the WITH OBSERVATIONS. 9 dripping-pan. Preserve for use, but suffer the fat to remain on the top, as it preserves the gravy. A Gree?i Pease Soup. Take six or eight cucumbers pared and sliced; the blanched part of the same number of coss lettuce, a sprig or two of mint, two or three onions, a little parsley, some white pepper and salt, a full pint of young pease, and half a pound of butter. Put these ingredients into a stewpan, and let them stew gently in their own liquor for an hour. Then have in readiness a quart of old pease, boiled tender. Pulp them through a cul¬ lender, and put to them two quarts of strong beef gravy, or more, as is liked for thickness. When the herbs and cucumbers are sufficiently stewed, mix, and after giving a boil, serve up the soup very hot. OBSERVATION. This soup majr be compared to the Lotus men¬ tioned by Homer, and applied to the Lotophagi, 4 -which whoso tastes Insatiate riots in the sweet repasts.' Pope. Hare Soup. Cut a large hare into pieces, and put it into a b 5 10 FAMILY COOKERY, stewpan, with five quarts of water, one onion, a few corns of white pepper, a little salt, and some mace. Stew over a slow fire for tw T o hours, or till it become a good gravy. Then cut the meat from the back and legs, and keep it to put into the soup when nearly ready. Put the bones into the gravy, and stew till the remainder of the meat is nearly dissolved. Then strain off the gravy, and put to it two spoonfuls of soy, or three of mushroom or walnut catsup. Cayenne pep¬ per to the taste. To two quarts of gravy put half a pint of Madeira, or red wine. Then put in the meat that was cut off from the back and legs, and let the whole stew about a quarter of an hour. Send up hot to table. Part of a knuckle of veal would improve this soup, in which case some more water will be required. Dutch Sour Sauce for Fish. Take the yolks of two eggs, a lump of butter sufficiently large for the quantity of sauce wanted, and a small bit of mace. A table-spoonful of good white wine vinegar. Put all together into a saucepan, and melt over a gentle fire, taking care to stir, or shake, only one way. The sauce will be sufficiently thick without any flour. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 11 OBSERVATION. This is a most excellent sauce for all kinds offish, as it does not, like most other sauces, destroy the flavour of the fish. A Granada. Take the caul sent in with a leg of veal, anil put it into a long or round pot, leaving a con¬ siderable portion of it to hang over; put upon it a layer of the flitch part of bacon; then a layer of high-seasoned force-meat; then a layer of veal, cut as for collops; and in this manner pro¬ ceed till the pot be filled. T hen take that part of the caul that hangs over the edge of the pot, and close it up, laying a piece of paper over it. Send it to the oven, and when sufficientlv baked, turn it into a dish, and serve it up. For sauce, a good brown gravy, as for Scotch collops. Add a few pickled mushrooms, morels, and truffles, when served up. OBSERVATION. This is a good looking savoury dish for a first course, and eats very well cold. To boil a Ham. If the ham be large, boil it in water with two 12 FAMILY COOKERY, pounds of veal. After boiling a quarter of an hour, add the following vegetables; celery, three heads; young onions, one handful; thyme, a small quantity; sweet marjoram, a small quantity; tw r o turnips; winter savory, one handful; one or two shalots. Boil gently till the ham become suf¬ ficiently tender. OBSERVATION. In this manner of boiling a ham, the juices of the veal and vegetables insinuate themselves between the fibres of the ham, after having dislodged the salt, by which means the meat is enriched and ten¬ dered. The salt being extracted, a considerable degree of flavour is given to the ham. At first sight, this will appear an extravagant way of boiling a ham; but let it be considered, that the broth will serve the charitable purposes of the family, and can¬ not be considered as lost. To dress a Beef Steak. Take rump steaks about half an inch in thick¬ ness ; put them on a gridiron, and keep con¬ tinually turning them; whilst dressing, lay upon them a piece of fat; and when taken from the fire, put upon them a little grated horseradish, together with a small portion of butter, mixed with white pepper and salt. Put into the dish a little hot gravy, in which let there be shred some shalot or young onions. * O WITH OBSERVATIONS. 13 OBSERVATION. This is a good method of dressing a beef steak. It should on no account be permitted to remain long upon the table, but be sent in hot and hot. Some persons are of opinion that it is better to dress the steaks without either butter or pepper ; a mode that preserves the natural taste and flavour of the meat. Macaroni. Take a quarter of a pound of macaroni. Boil it till it become tender, but not dissolved; then put it upon a sieve to drain. Take a gill of cream, a piece of butter, with some Parmesan cheese nicely grated. Set all the ingredients on the fire to simmer till perfectly incorporated. Strew a little grated Parmesan on the surface; then brown with a salamander, and serve up. OBSERVATION. This may be considered as the simplest method of dressing macaroni. The best kind of cheese is Par¬ mesan, but this dish will dress very well with the cheese of our own country. Some persons add a small portion of good gravy. Carolus Stephanus, in his book De Nutrimentis, printed in 1550, speaks very unfavourably of macaroni, considering it as a dish of hard digestion, and only fit for the stomachs of rustics and artisans. But the frequent appear¬ ance of it at genteel tables does not seem to con¬ firm his opinion. 14 family cookery, To broil a Beef Steak. Take rump steaks, half an inch in thickness, and after beating them with a paste pin, season with pepper and salt. The fire being perfectly clear, and the gridiron hot, and rubbed with a piece of fat, lay on the steaks, and turn them often, to keep in the gravy. When sufficiently done, lay the steaks on a hot dish, with a little gravy. OBSERVATION. In dressing a beef steak, the great art is to pre¬ serve the gravy in the inside of the steak, which can only be done by a clear fire and frequent turning. If kept too long on the fire, the error of all bad cooks, the meat will be hard and juiceless. This is the simplest and the best way of dressing a beef steak. Shalot to the taste. Take care that the beef be tender, as, without that consideration, the utmost dexterity on the part of the cook will be but of little avail. Beef steaks, dressed in this simple man¬ ner, were the established breakfast of the maids of honour, in the days of Queen Elizabeth. At an earlier period, they gave strength and vigour to those men who . ‘ drew, And almost join’d the horns of the tough yew.’ A Gravy Soup. Take four pounds of lean beef, a knuckle of WITH OBSERVATIONS. 15 veal, half a pound of lean ham, a bundle of sweet herbs, two whole carrots, two whole turnips, an onion stuck with cloves, and four heads of celery. Put these into a stewpan, and keep it at a con¬ siderable distance from the fire, in order that the gravy may be drawn from the meat before putting in any water, and without running the hazard of burning. Then put in as much water as may be required, and stew gently for the space of five hours. Strain through a sieve into an earthen pot, where the soup should remain during the night. Next day, take off the fat; and when the stock is taken out, great care should be used not to raise it from the bottom, as that would oc¬ casion the soup to have a muddy appearance. Put the stock, in this clarified state, into the stew- pan, and set it over the fire, taking care to re¬ move the scum as it rises. Season with white pepper, salt, and mace. Just before sending up, some persons put thin slips of carrots to the soup; but these must be separately boiled in a saucepan. OBSERVATION. This is a most excellent gravy soup; and if the process be well attended to, the soup will be as transparent as amber. Vermicelli may, or may not, be added. 16 FAMILY COOKERY, A Gravy Soup. Take four pounds and a half of lean beef, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, and the scrag- end of a neck of mutton. Boil together in a suf¬ ficient quantity of water, till the virtue of the meat is extracted. Take celery, thyme, onions or leeks, carrots, and turnips: boil these in a sepa¬ rate vessel till sufficiently soft for squeezing, and add the juice to the above broth. After straining, {nit the whole into an earthen vessel during the night. Take off the fat, and when put into the stewpan, add such spices as may be most agree¬ able, together with some salt, and a pounded an¬ chovy or two. Serve up with a small loaf of bread. When carrots, boiled and pulped, are added, a carrot soup is prepared. OBSERVATION. It will be unnecessary to remark on these soups, that their clearness, and uniform taste, constitute the difference between a good and a bad cook. A Savoury Omelette. Take six or seven eggs, and beat them up with a little salt and white pepper. Then having the frying-pan moderately hot, and containing a lump of butter, put in the eggs, after being WITH OBSERVATIONS. 17 mixed with a tea-cupful of gravy, a little essence of anchovy, a few chives, and a little parsley cut small. When it has come to nearly the consist¬ ence of a pancake, add a little lemon-juice. To take off the raw appearance of the eggs, a sala¬ mander may be held over the surface; but when a long dish is used, folding over will make that operation unnecessary. A White Soup. To six quarts of water, put a large knuckle of veal, and a pound of ham, or shoulder of bacon, but only the lean part, two anchovies, a few pep¬ per-corns, two or three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a few heads of celery cut in slices. Stew these all together till the soup has obtained a sufficient strength; then strain through a hair sieve into an earthen pot, in which let the soup stand all night. Next day, skim and pour it off into a stewpan ; put to it a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched and pounded; give a gentle boil, and run it through a lawn sieve, having just before added a pint of cream and the yolk of one egg. OBSERVATION. This is a wholesome white soup. Like all soups, it 18 FAMILY COOKERY, must be sent up hot. The addition of some vermi¬ celli would be an improvement. And if not suf¬ ficiently strong, some veal gravy may be added. A White Pease Soup. Make a good broth with lean beef, veal, and a few slices of ham, together with turnips, car¬ rots, onions, and celery. The broth being pre¬ pared over night, let it be strained from the meat, and put by to cool. When intended to be used, remove the fat that will be formed over the sur¬ face of the broth. Take a pint of white pease, either split or whole, but whole in preference, and after steep¬ ing them in cold water for the space of one hour, put them into a pot with about a quart of water, and let them boil till they become sufficiently soft to be pulped through a sieve. Then add them to the broth, together with white pepper, and salt to the taste. Boil for the space of a few minutes, and serve up with fried bread, and a little dried mint. OBSERVATION. As much depends on the flavour of the pease, Ignotus recommends whole pease in preference to those that are split. The external coat preserves the sweet flavour of the pea, which soon flies off when the naked surface is exposed to the weather. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 19 A Picklefor the Preservation of Pork, Tongues, Sj-c. To four gallons of water put a pound of Mus- cavedo sugar, four ounces of saltpetre, six pounds of bay or common salt. Put the whole into a pot, or kettle, and let it boil, taking care to re¬ move the scum as it rises. Take the vessel from the fire when no more scum rises, and let the liquor stand till it become cold: then put the meat, intended to be preserved, into the vessel appropriated for keeping it, and pour upon it the preserving liquor, covering the meat, in which condition it must be kept. Meat preserved in this manner has been taken out of the pickle after lying in it for the space of ten weeks, and been found as good as if it had not been salted above three days, and at the same time as tender as could be desired. When it is intended to pre¬ serve the meat for a very long time, it will be necessary once in two months to boil the pickle over again, skimming off all that rises as before, and throwing in, during the boiling, two ounces of sugar, and half a pound of bay or common salt. The pickle after the second boiling will keep good for twelve months. OBSERVATION. This is an excellent pickle for curing hams, 20 FAMILY COOKERY, tongues, and beef intended for drying. Observe, when the meat is taken out of the pickle for drying, to wipe, it clean and dry, and then to put it into paper bags, to be hung up in a dry place. This pickle is found to be well calculated for those who reside in hot climates. A Vegetable Soup , with Meat. Make a good stock of beef and veal; then take one onion, two carrots, and two turnips. Cut these into pellets. Put them and the stock into the soup pot, with a small piece of ham and a little butter. That done, add a handful of sorrel, chopped small, and six lettuces well blanched. Boil about an hour. Before its being served up, put in a handful of chervil, chopped small, and let it boil a few minutes. Salt to the taste. OBSERVATION. This is an excellent soup, and perfectly whole¬ some. The stock, which constitutes its basis, must be good, and clear. To ragoo a Calf’s Head. Take half of a calf’s head. Bone it. Cut some rashers of ham, and lay them at the bottom of a stewpan, with two thin slices of veal, three sha- lots, a clove of garlic, a little spice, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Put in the head with a tea-cupful WITH OBSERVATIONS. 21 of gravy. Stew it clown for a quarter of an hour, then add to it a quart of gravy. Stew it till tender, then strain the gravy from it. Take off’ the fat, and put a piece of butter in a stewpan. Melt it, and put to it a spoonful of flour. Mix your gravy with it by degrees, and throw in a glass of white v ine, and a few mushrooms, or artichoke bottoms cut in pieces. The sauce must be thick. Put the head in, and give it a boil. Season to the taste, and serve it up with the sauce over it. OBSERVATION. This is a very inviting dish for those who are fond of good eating, and who do not live in fear of the gout or scurvy. To Steiv Lobsters. Pick the meat from the shells of two lobsters, and put it into a stewpan, with some melted but¬ ter, a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a little white pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Stew together, and keep shaking the pan over the fire till the lobster be thoroughly warmed. OBSERVATION. With the melted butter, incorporate the inside savoury part of the lobster; and when a she lobster is used, the inside coral should also be mixed with the butter. This may be considered as a restora¬ tive dish, partaking of the wholesome nature of all shell fish. 22 FAMILY COOKERY, A Vegetable Soup, isoith Meat. Have ready the stock for gravy soup. Put six ounces of butter into a stewpan, and melt it till it has done hissing. Have ready six onions cut: throw them in, and shake them well. Boil for five or six minutes, then put in six heads of celery cut small, two handfuls of spinage, two cabbage lettuces cut, a handful of sorrel, four carrots, and four turnips. Fry them all together, taking care not to burn them. Take a piece of butter, and put it into a stewpan. Melt it, and when it is turned brown, put in by degrees as much flour as will thicken the soup. Stir it well, and add to it the first mentioned gravy stock. Before it boils, put in the fried vegetables, and stew them very gently. If in season, throw in a pint of green pease, and stew altogether until tender. Season well. The soup should be as thick as good cream. OBSERVATION. This dish is only proper for those who do not stand in fear of gouty shoes and a pair of crutches. Gravy for keeping. Take of beef, mutton, and veal, of each equal parts. Cut the meat into small pieces, and put it WITH OBSERVATIONS. into a deep saucepan with a close cover. The beef at the bottom, then the mutton, with a piece of lean bacon, some whole pepper, black and white, a large onion, in slices, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Over these put the veal. Cover up close over a slow fire, for the space of ten minutes, shaking the pan now and then. After this pour on as much boiling water as will a little more than cover the meat. Stew gently for the space of eight hours, then put in two anchovies, chopped, and season with salt, to the taste. Strain off, and preserve for use. OBSERVATION. If properly made, the gravy will become a rich jelly, a piece of which may he occasionally cut out when a made dish is hastily wanted. A Hare Soup simple. Take two or three pounds of lean beef, and when cut into pieces, put it into a stewpan with five quarts of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, shred, and some white pepper and salt. Stew over a gentle fire for the space of two hours, then strain the gravy from the meat. The hare being cut into pieces, put it into the gravy, in which it should stew till it become quite tender. 24 FAMILY COOKEItY, Add popper and salt to the taste. Before being sent up, the soup should be neatly strained from the meat, or it may be sent up in the soup. OBSERVATION. This soup does not contain the inflammatory par¬ ticles that, in general, are offensive to Archseus. He evidently leans towards the mild Caledonian broths, in preference to the high seasoned soups of this country. Malt Jl T ine. Take of strong sweet wort sixteen gallons. To every gallon put one pound of lump sugar. Boil for half an hour, and when lukewarm (as when yest is set on) tun it into a barrel, putting to each gallon two pounds of whole raisins, picked from the stalks, four ounces of isinglass, and one spoonful of yest. Let it work out of the barrel, stirring it every day with a stick for a fortnight or a month. When the fermentation is com¬ pleted, put to every sixteen gallons of wine one gallon of French brandy. Let the cask remain with the bung open till the fermentation ceases. Then bung it up, and let it stand twelve months ; after which time it may be racked off, or bottled,, and in six months it will be fit for use. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 25 OBSERVATION. This kind of wine comes cheap, and is equally good with the best raisin wine. It improves by age, and answers all the purposes of a sweet wine. The present high price of wine makes such a substitute very desirable. Of this kind of wine a medical man will form his opinion, when called in to patients who have constantly used it. It makes excellent vinegar. To Stew Cod. Cut cod in slices, and put it into a stevvpan with as much water as may suffer it to be stewed about fifteen minutes. Then put in two or three pounded anchovies, a little butter, some bread crumbs made very fine, and a little juice of lemon. Season with salt, nutmeg, and a small portion of white pepper; then add Cayenne pepper, and as much good gravy as will allow the whole to boil about five minutes. A table-spoonful of crab or lobster sauce will much improve this dish. The fish must not be turned in the pan. observation. A physician who has a greater regard for his pa¬ tient’s health than he has for his guinea, will not re¬ commend the too frequent use of this dish. A Good Fish Sauce. To half a pound of butter melted with flour c 26 FAMILY COOKERY, and water, or cream, add five or six spoonfuls of essence of anchovy. OBSERVATION. This makes a very good extemporaneous fish- sauce, and saves a great deal of trouble on the part of the cook. A Cheap Soup. Take a pound and a half of lean beef cut into small pieces, seven pints of water, one pint of split pease, one pound of potatoes, three ounces of rice, two heads of celery, and three leeks. Season to the taste with salt, wdiite pepper, and dried mint. Boil gently till reduced to five pints, then strain through a cullender,, or, which is better, it may remain unstrained. Fried cabbage and onion will give strength to the soup at a small expense. OBSERVATION. A soup of this kind, taken every fourth day, will act as an antidote to strong gravy soups, and prove a preservative against gout and scurvy. Experto crede Roberto. To fry a Beef Steak. Cut the steaks as for broiling, and put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter. Set them WITH OBSERVATIONS. 27 over a slow fire, and keep turning them till the butter has become a thick white gravy, which pour into a basin, and put more butter to the steaks. When almost enough, pour all the gravy into the basin, and put more butter into the pan; then fry the steaks over a quick fire till they be¬ come of a light brown, when they will be suf¬ ficiently done. Remove from the fire, and put them into a hot pewter dish, pouring upon them the gravy that had been drawn from them, and into which some chopped shalot had been pre¬ viously put. Serve up very hot. OBSERVATION. Steaks dressed in this manner are very tender, and cannot be considered otherwise than as a dish pre¬ pared to satisfy the appetite, and not to pamper it. A Beef Steak dressed hastily in a Stewpan. Fry the steaks in butter a good brown, then put in half a pint of w r ater, one onion sliced, a spoonful of walnut catsup, a little chopped shalot, and some white pepper and salt. Cover up close, and stew gently. When enough, thicken the ?ravy with flour and butter. Garnish with scraped horse-radish, and serve up hot. OBSERVATION. This, like the former, may be considered as a meal c 2 28 FAMILY COOKERY, prepared at a small expense, and capable of giving lasting stamina when aided by a draught of good porter or table beer. Cabeached Cod. Cut the tail part of the fish into slices, and upon them put some white pepper and salt. Then fry in sweet oil. Take the slices from the pan, and lay them on a plate to cool. When cold, put them into a pickle made of good vinegar, in which some white pepper-corns, a few cloves, a little mace, and some salt had been boiled. When cold, mix with the pickle a tea-cupful of oil. Put the fish into a pot, and between every piece put a few slices of onion, and keep the whole well covered with the pickle. In the same manner salmon may be cabeached ; but if taken fresh out of the water, it is liable to break, which it will not do after being kept a few days. OBSERVATION. Escabeche, in Spanish, signifies 4 Fish Pickle.’ In the sea-ports of Spain, they escabeche their fish, which they send inland as presents to their friends. The preparation is similar to the dish here men¬ tioned, with the addition of a large portion of garlic and bay leaves. The Spaniards eat it with vinegar and salad, and sometimes stew it lightly. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 29 Mutton Venison. Skin and bone a loin of mutton, after removing the suet. Put it into a cold stewpan for one night with the bones around it, and pour over it a pint of red port wine and a quart of water. The next day put it over the fire, together with the bones, the fat side next the pan, with one shalot, a little parsley, marjoram, six pepper-corns, one blade of mace, and a little lemon-peel cut thin. After stewing about an hour, turn the meat, the fat side uppermost, and when enough, remove the bones; skim off the fat and strain the gravy. If not sufficiently brown, a salamander may be held over it. Serve up with some of the gravy in the dish. OBSERVATION. This dish is a good imitation of venison, when used with wine and bread sauce, or currant jelly. Young mutton will not answer for this purpose ; and indeed, unless it be five or six years old, the colour of the flesh will discover the deception. Malt Wine. Take of sweet wort, about the strength of table beer, any quantity. To every gallon of wort, put a pound and a half of lump sugar. Boil the liquor for the space of half an hour, and when 30 FAMILY COOKERY, about the warmth when yest is set on, tun it into a barrel, and to each gallon put two pounds of Malaga raisins a little chopped, two ounces of dis¬ solved isinglass, and one spoonful of yest. Stir the liquor every day with a stick during a fort¬ night or a month. Keep the bung lightly in till the fermentation ceases, when a gallon of brandy should be put to every sixteen gallons of liquor. Then bung up the cask, and let the wine stand for the space of twelve months, when it may be racked off, or bottled. Some persons put three ounces of hops to every thirty gallons of wort. This wine improves greatly by age. OBSERVATION. The wine of Portugal, so congenial to the British constitution, is now so heavily taxed, that the mid¬ dling classes of people may be fairly considered as deprived of its enjoyment. And as every man is desirous of rendering the burdens laid upon him as light as possible, an ingenious gentleman contrived the above wine, of which the basis is malt. For some years, the gentleman enjoyed exclusively to himself this cheap domestic comfort; but now, by the se¬ verest law, he is deprived of that enjoyment, by a late additional tax upon malt and raisins. I conceive that the minister learnt this piece of torturing inge¬ nuity from the sportsman, who, when he means to unkennel a fox, orders all Reynard’s retreats to be stopped up early in the morning; so that when the poor animal expects to be safely lodged against his pursuers, he finds his own doors shut against him. Distressed and fatigued, Reynard is now forced to WITH OBSERVATIONS. 31 depend upon his own strength, which generally fails him; and in the end he falls a victim to the speed of the hounds, and the ingenuity of the huntsman. De te fabula narratur. A Russian Sauce. Take grated horse-radish, four spoonfuls; made mustard, two tea-spoonfuls; salt, a salt- spoonful ; sugar, a tea-spoonful; vinegar, as much as will just cover the ingredients. OBSERVATION. This is a most excellent sauce for all kinds of cold meat, and when added to some melted butter, makes a very good fish-sauce. Ignotus once saw this sauce condescendingly prepared by the hands of a Russian princess, on which account it is received into this collection. Mutton Stewed. Cut slices out of the middle part of a leg of mutton; season them with white pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan; cover the steaks with water, and a little gravy, and add some onions sliced. Let the stewpan be covered close, and when one side of the steaks is done enough, let them be turned; when a little butter, rolled in flour, should be added. OBSERVATION. If stewed beyond twenty minutes, the meat will FAMILY COOKERY', no •7/v become hard. This is a very good dish for a private family where a little economy is necessary. Beef may be dressed in the same simple way. Shalot, garlic, or catsup, may be added, as the family may think proper. Oyster Sausages. Take half a pound of lean mutton; three quarters of a pound of beef suet; two score of oysters scalded, and the beards taken off*. Chop all together, and add some bread crumbs, and yolks of eggs to bind the materials together. Season well with salt, white pepper, and mace. Make this composition into the form of sausages, and fry them lightly in the usual way. OBSERVATION. This is a very neat supper dish, and will in general be liked by those who are fond of savoury things. If required, the sausage meat may be put into skins. Some persons prefer the inside of a sirloin of beef to mutton, but that cannot be so conveniently obtained. To stew a Duck with Cabbage. Boil a cabbage over-night, and set it to drain. Half roast a duck, and have ready some gravy seasoned with sweet marjoram, thyme, onions, white pepper, and salt, and thickened with butter and flour. Put the duck into a stewpan, with WITH OBSERVATIONS. 33 the gravy, and stew it till enough; then have in readiness the cabbage, fried in butter, and put it into the pan. When sufficiently heated, serve up, with the duck in the middle. OBSERVATION. Notwithstanding this is a savoury dish, it contains only a small portion of gout. Fish Sauce. Take twenty-four anchovies, ten shalots, three heaped spoonfuls of scraped horse-radish, ten blades of mace, a quart of Rhenish wine, twelve cloves, half a pint of anchovy liquor, a pint of water, and one lemon sliced. Boil all together till reduced to three pints, then strain, and add three spoonfuls of walnut catsup. Bottle for use. OBSERVATION. Two or three spoonfuls of this composition put to a quarter of a pound of melted butter, makes a good and expeditious sauce for any kind of fish. When kept from the air, it will retain its goodness for a considerable time. No housekeeper, who lives in the country, ought to be without it, unless she prefers the essence of anchovy, which may be purchased at the oil-shops. A Partridge Soup. Stew down a knuckle of veal till it become a c 5 34 FAMILY COOKERY, strong soup. Stuff as many partridges as you think proper with forcemeat, and stew them in the soup till they are perfectly tender; but not so much as to fall in pieces. The flavour and taste of the soup will be much increased by the addition of all sorts of vegetables, especially celery. Sea¬ son to the taste. To make the soup very strong, some lean beef may be added to the veal; but before the dish is sent up to the table, the meat and vegetables must be strained off, and only the partridges suffered to remain in the soup. OBSERVATION. This is one of the dishes that escaped from Pan¬ dora’s box. A Macaroni Soup. Cut three onions into slices, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter and a little water; but take care that the onions be not burnt. Keep the onions and butter upon the fire, till they become a little discoloured: then take four an¬ chovies, with two or three fresh-water fish, and a little thyme. Simmer these together a proper time, then add waiter and scraped Parmesan cheese. Boil up all together, and strain through a wide sieve; after which return the soup into the WITH OBSERVATIONS. 35 pan, and add to it a sufficient quantity of pre¬ pared macaroni, and gave it a boil. OBSERVATION. This is an Italian Lent dish of reputation. To stew a Loin of Mutton. Bone a loin of aged mutton, taking off the skin and the inside fat. Then stew it in gravy till it become a good brown. Put into the stew- pan, with the mutton, two anchovies, and half a clove of garlic. Stew moderately till the meat become tender. Half an hour before taking up, add a few spoonfuls of port wine, and some cat¬ sup. Skim off the fat, and thicken the sauce with butter and flour. OBSERVATION. If well dressed, this is a good-looking dish, and in general is approved of. It eats very well with ve¬ nison sauce. To stew a Fowl in Rice. Take a fowl, and half boil it in a moderate quantity of water; then put to it a quarter of a pound of rice, with some mace. Stew the fowl till it become very tender. A basin of well sea- 36 FAMILY COOKERY, soned veal broth added during the stewing will make the dish more savoury. OBSERVATION. Take care to stew the fowl till it become tender; but be careful that it be not so much stewed as to fall in pieces, and lose its form. Perhaps it would be better to boil the rice separately, and pour it upon the fowl when sent up. This is a good Semel-in- Septimana dish, for free-livers. A Macaroni Pie. Make the paste as for any other pie, and with it line the sides and bottom of a neat earthen or china dish that will bear the lire. Then having witli Meat. Take cabbage lettuces, white beet leaves, celery, leeks, sorrel, and scraped carrot, a good handful of each. Chop these fine, and add cu¬ cumbers sliced, young pease, or asparagus, and a little chervil. Stew them gently in gravy, and a few ounces of butter, till they become quite ten¬ der; then put to them the required quantity of gravy or good broth, made of shank of beef, or veal and mutton. Give a boil, and serve up hot. OBSERVATION. This is a very wholesome soup, and not expensive A Mock Hare. Cut out the inside of a sirloin of beef, and take from it all the fat. Then prepare a sufficient h 5 154 FAMILY COOKERY, quantity of rich forcemeat, made as for hare, and put it within the beef, which must be tightly rolled, so as to imitate the shape of a hare. Then roast it upon a hanging spit. Baste with port wine, and let the roasting be performed before a quick fire. Serve up with good gravy in the dish, or rich melted butter. Currant jelly dissolved in port wine, for sauce. The cook hardly needs to be told, that the meat should be cut open, that the forcemeat may be made to lie in the centre of the beef. OBSERVATION. This is a correct imitation of hare; and when game cannot be obtained, is a substitute hardly to be dis¬ tinguished in taste from real hare. Savoury Stewed Beef. Cut out the inside of a sirloin of beef, and prepare it exactly as for mock hare, in the fore¬ going receipt. When tightly rolled, fry it to a light brown, and after suffering the fat to drain from it, put it into a stewpan with a quart of good gravy, a little catsup, anchovy liquor, or a score of oysters, if in season. OBSERVATION. This is a very palatable dish, but Ignotus is of WITH OBSERVATIONS. 155 opinion, that Archaeus will consider it as an importa¬ tion of gout. Brisket of Beef stewed savoury. Take about eight pounds of brisket of beef, and stew it till quite tender in as much water as will well cover the meat. When sufficiently tendered, take out the bones, and carefully skim off the fat. Take a pint of the liquor, put to it the third of a pint of red port wine, a little wal¬ nut, or mushroom catsup, and some salt. Tie up in a bit of muslin some whole white pepper and mace, and stew all together for a short time. Have ready some carrots, and turnips boiled tender and cut into the form of dice; strew them upon the beef, putting a few into the dish. Truffles and morels may be added. OBSERVATION. This is a most excellent dish, and as it contains particles of every denomination, it cannot but be acceptable to Archaeus. Brisket of Beef stewed simply. Stew in two gallons of water, for two or three hours over night, about ten pounds of brisket of beef. When made sufficiently tender, take out 156 FAMILY COOKERY, the bones, and carefully skim off the fat. Then boil in some of the liquor a few carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and white cabbage, till they be¬ come quite tender. Add these and some salt to the beef and remainder of the broth, and stew all together till sufficiently done. OBSERVATION. This is a dish calculated for those who sit down to table with an appetite that does not require to be pampered. An Indian Burdwan. A half-grown fowl being ready boiled, let it be cut up and put into a stewpan with three table¬ spoonfuls ofessence of anchovy, three table-spoon¬ fuls of Madeira wine, a little water, a lump of butter rolled in flour, some shred onion, and Cayenne pepper to the taste. Stew over a slow fire till the onions are become tender. When poured into the dish, take a fresh lime, and squeeze a little of the juice into the stew. Cold boiled or roasted lamb, or kid, are equally good when dressed in this manner. OBSERVATION. This dish is frequently introduced in the East Indies, when the appetite begins to flag, after eating heartily of two courses ; and being often dressed by WITH OBSERVATIONS. 157 the master or mistress, in the presence of the com¬ pany, it is generally paid great attention to. The French have a saying, ‘ L’appetit vient en man- geant.’ Hamlet says, ‘ As if increase of appetite had grown By what it feeds on.’ Shakespeare. When the stew is dressed on a small chafingdish’ in the room where the company dine, it sends forth such a savoury smell, that it reminds us of what Eve felt when the apple was presented to her, during her disturbed dream: ‘-The pleasant savoury smell So quicken’d appetite, that I, methought, Could not but taste it.’ Milton. When Chilly can be procured instead of the Cay¬ enne pepper, and the mild Bombay onions, the Burdwan becomes a dish that few can resist. But being too rich a mess to make a meal of, and being only eat when the stomach is satiated, Ignotus is of opinion that Archoeus will enter his protest against the introduction of this eastern luxury. An English Burdwan. Take a rabbit, or well-fed fowl, and after be¬ ing cut up, put it into a stewpan, with some slices of veal, and as much strong beef gravy as will cover the meat. Roll a piece of butter in flour, and add some shred onion, anchovy liquor, Cay¬ enne pepper, salt, and port wine, to the taste. 158 FAMILY COOKERY, Stew over a slow fire for the space of twenty minutes, shaking the pan two or three times. Cold veal, rabbit, or fowl, will make a good Burdwan. OBSERVATION. Archseus is always indulgent to those men whose change of climate and modes of living have created a second nature; but he constantly shows his dis¬ pleasure when he sees plain eaters suffering them¬ selves to be led astray by dishes that never were in¬ tended for them. A Savoury Ste 1 w. Take two or three pounds of beef as for steaks, and cut it into small pieces. Season with salt, white pepper, cinnamon, cloves and mace, to the taste. Add three ounces of marrow, a spoonful of catsup, a little gravy, and six or eight cloves of garlic. Stew gently over a slow fire, till the meat be a little tendered, then add a pint of good broth, or gravy, and stew for the space of an hour and a half, or till the beef has become sufficiently tender. Before putting in the gravy, let the fat be carefully skimmed off. A few spoonfuls of red wine may, or may not, be added. OBSERVATION. This is a very palatable stew for those who do not object to the flavour of garlic. It is a meal for WITH OBSERVATIONS. 159 families of economy, who can be content with small beer for their beverage, and whose vocations do not call them into company. A Dutch Fish Sauce. Take two yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and a little nutmeg and mace. When held over the fire, put in the eggs, and stir only one way. By constantly moving, the sauce will become suf¬ ficiently thick without the addition of flour. OBSERVATION. This is a good economical sauce, and is much better than those strong sauces that overpower the natural flavour of the fish. To stem: Beet Root. Bake red beet root in an oven till it become quite tender; and when cold, scrape off the out¬ side coat. Cut the root into slices, and dip them in vinegar. Put them into a stewpan with a suf¬ ficient quantity of brown gravy; and to enrich the colour, a few grains of powdered cochineal may be added. The roots should be stewed till tender, which may be in about half an hour; and just before being served up, two or three spoon¬ fuls of cream may, or may not, be added. 160 FAMILY COOKERY, OBSERVATION. This is a good looking dish, and very wholesome. The expense is trifling. The fine blood colour may be increased without the cochineal, by a few spoon¬ fuls of the juice, obtained by pounding two or three slices of the root in a marble mortar, with a little of the gravy. If thought too sweet, a few spoonfuls of vinegar may be added. Nice Onion Sauce- Melt the butter with a little thick cream, but add no water or flour. Boil the onions, and take off two coats from their outsides. Chop the insides smooth, and put them into the melted butter, with salt to the taste. Stir, one way, over the fire, for a quarter of an hour, and then send up the sauce quite hot. OBSERVATION. This is a most elegant onion sauce for boiled rab¬ bits, or roast mutton. A Perigord Pie. Take half a dozen of partridges, and dispose of their legs in the same manner as is done with chickens when intended to be boiled. Season them well with white pepper, salt, a small quan¬ tity of cloves, and mace beaten fine. Take two WITH OBSERVATIONS. 161 pounds of lean veal, and one pound of fat bacon. Cut these into small bits, and put them into a stewpan with half a pound of butter, together with some shalots, parsley, and thyme, all chopped small. Stew these till the meat appear sufficiently tender. Then season it in the same manner as was directed for the partridges. Strain, and pound the meat in a mortar till it is made per¬ fectly smooth; then mix the pulp with some of the liquor in which it had been stewed. The pie¬ crust being raised, and ready to receive the par¬ tridges, put them in, with the above-mentioned forcemeat over them, and over that lay some thin slices of fat bacon. Cover the pie with a thick lid, and be sure to close it well at the sides to prevent the gravy from boiling out at the places w r here the joining is made; which would occasion the partridges to eat dry. This sized pie will require three hours baking, but care must be taken not to put it into the oven till the fierce heat of the fire be gone off. A pound of fresh gathered truffles, parboiled, will add considerably to the merits of the pie. Sometimes a clove of garlic is mixed with the forcemeat, but an English palate will not allow of its being more than just discernible. 162 FAMILY COOKERY, OBSERVATION. This pie takes its name from a district in France, named Perigord, where the partridges are remark¬ ably large. When prepared by a good ‘cook, it will generally be well received. As to its merits, when viewed in a medical light, it seems to belong to the class denominated ‘ high-seasoned dishes,’of which hints have been given in many places of this selection. An ingenious cook will, perhaps, invent a better forcemeat than what is here recommended. This pie is thought by the land, where ‘ all are shop¬ keepers,’ as worthy of being imported from the land, where ‘all are cooks.’ A French Apple Pudding. Take any number of apples; pare them, and after cutting them into quarters, take out the cores. Then put them into a dish intended for the table with some sugar, and bake them in a slow oven till they become a marmalade. Take half a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded smooth, w r ith an ounce of bitter ones. Put to them half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs, and the white of one. Sweeten to your taste, and pour the mixture over the apples; then send the dish to be baked in a gentle oven. OBSERVATION. This dish differs very little from the English apple- pie when custard has been put to it. Custard and WITH OBSERVATIONS. 163 apple-pie is the shibboleth by which an alderman may be known. The Head of a Holibut stewed. Fill a stewpan nearly full with water, and put in a few anchovies, some marjoram and rosemary, two or three cloves, some whole white pepper, and scraped ginger. Stew these for the space of half an hour; then strain, and put in the head to be stewed till tender; when enough, thicken the gravy with flour rolled in butter; add an anchovy or two, or a spoonful of its essence, and a little nutmeg. When ready to be served up, put in some spoonfuls of white w ine, together with some balls made in the following manner: Bone and skin a piece of the fish; then chop it small, with a little thyme, marjoram, grated bread and nut¬ meg. Form these into balls with some melted butter and cream, or the yolk of an egg. Put into the stewpan, before the head is taken out, a large piece of the forcemeat, and salt to the taste. OBSERVATION. This dish is intended for Lent, but it is good at all seasons. Momentary Sauce for cold Meat. Take parsley and young onions. Shred them 164 FAMILY COOKERY, very small, and mix them up with vinegar, and a little Cayenne pepper. Add, if approved of, a little gravy. A Fasting-Day's Dish. Boil eggs very hard, and cut off a little from the thick ends. Fry them in a pan, and take care to keep them continually in motion. Then place them in the dish on the thick end, and pour over them some good fish or herb gravy. The gravy must be brown. Garnish with lemon and what was cut off from the ends. OBSERVATION. An occasional fasting-day, that does not allow the stomach to be quite empty, is highly salutary, and for which Archaeus is always thankful. To dress Holibid in the manner of Scotch Collops. Take thin slices of holibut, and fry them with butter in the usual manner; then boil in a little w r ater, for half an hour, four onions, some celery, and thyme, and the bones of the fish. Strain, and put in the fish with some browned butter; and stew for the space of half an hour. Season with white pepper, salt, and mace, one spoonful of catsup, and the same quantity of lemon-juice, WITH OBSERVATIONS. 165 with a little shred lemon-peel. Thicken with flour and butter, and serve up. OBSERVATION. Whoever can obtain this Lent dish will have no reason to long after Scotch collops, or veal cutlets. Ling is more proper for this purpose, being of a firmer texture than holibut. Sturgeon is still better, when it can be got, being a fish that partakes much of the nature of veal, and admits of being roasted as such. Haddocks stewed. Take six haddocks of a middling size and fresh caught. Scrape off the skin, and cut off the heads, tails, fins, and belly flaps. Then put the fish into a pan, with a quart of water, a few pepper-corns, and one whole onion. Stew slowly for the space of a quarter of an hour, then strain oft 1 the liquor or stock. Dredge the fish with flour, and fry them in drip or butter. This done, put the fish into a stewpan, with the stock, adding Cayenne pepper, catsup, and essence of anchovy. Stew till the sauce become of sufficient strength. Serve up in a deep dish, with the surrounding sauce. observation. This is a very good dish, and though sufficiently savoury, it is not capable of injuring the constitution by an importation of gouty particles. It is a favourite 166 FAMILY COOKERY, dish north of Tweed. Ignotus is of opinion that it may be improved by the addition of some gravy, when in the act of stewing. Care should be taken that the fish be not broken, as the previous boiling will dispose them to be very tender. A stewed Cod’s Head and Shoulders. Boil the fish till nearly enough, then take it out, and put it into the stewpan, with two bottles of strong ale, and one of small beer, an ounce of butter, and an ounce of bruised white pepper tied up in a bag, a few oysters, some good beef gravy, and two onions. Salt to the taste. OBSERVATION. This is a very good dish for Lent when the beef gravy is left out: in place of which, a few spoonfuls of catsup may be substituted, and the butter in¬ creased. Small haddocks may be dressed in this way. This also is a northern dish. Never having tasted either of them, Ignotus presents them on re¬ commendation. A Pease Soup Maigre. Take a pint of whole pease. Boil in as much water as will make a good tureen of soup, with one carrot, half a small Savoy cabbage, two heads of celery, some whole black pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, two onions, and three anchovies, WITH OBSERVATIONS. 167 after being well washed. Boil these until they become perfectly tender, when they should be rubbed through a cullender. Take two large handfuls of spinach, scald it, and beat it in a marble mortar; then rub it through a sieve. Take some lettuces, a little mint, four small green onions, or leeks, not shred too small, and a little celery. Put these into a saucepan with three quarters of a pound of butter, and a good deal of flour. Let them boil; then put the spinach and the herbs into the soup, and let them boil till sufficiently incorporated. A few heads of aspa¬ ragus will greatly improve the soup, but let them be put in late. OBSERVATION. This is a wholesome and excellent maigre soup. Pease, when split, lose much of their flavour ; a cir¬ cumstance not generally known. A Meagre Mess. Take onion, celery, and turnips, and let them boil in about three half pints of water till they become sufficiently tender, adding some oatmeal and salt towards the end of boiling. When served up, put in a few pieces of toasted bread. 168 FAMILY COOKERY, OBSERVATION. Ignotus prefers this mess to a heavy meat supper; and he trusts his advice will be found good, especially in a gouty habit. A Sandwich. Take butter and grated Cheshire cheese, or Parmesan, of each equal quantities. Made mus¬ tard, about a fourth part of those conjoined ingredients. Beat them in a marble mortar into a uniform mass. Spread this mixture upon slices of white bread; then put on slices of ham, or any kind of meat. Cover with another piece of bread, the same as at first. Cut neatly into mouthfuls. OBSERVATION. This is a very neat sandwich, as it need not be touched with the fingers of the most delicate lady. Upon this principle, a variety of sandwiches may be formed by an ingenious housekeeper. We mistake when we suppose the ‘ sandwich’ to be a modern invention. Suetonius, in the life of Tib. Claudius Caesar, mentions it under the name of ‘ offula.’ Rogo vos, quis potest sine offula vivere ? Ignotus wishes the old name offula to be con¬ tinued, as he conceives it would be affixing a stigma upon the moderns to be deemed the inventors of a practice that too often incommodes families, by obliging them to provide two dinners, when one was as much as their finances would admit of. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 169 A Partridge Soup. Take the whole-breasts of four partridges, and after throwing away the fat and skins, put them, for the space of half an hour, into cold water. Then cut the meat from the remaining parts, and pound it in a marble mortar. Take four pounds of veal cut small, a slice of lean ham, the above pounded meat, together with all the bones, some white pepper and salt, three table-spoonfuls of white bread crums, a large onion, in which three cloves have been stuck, and some scraped carrots and celery. Stew these in a sufficient quantity of w'ater, till all the goodness has been drawn from the meat and vegetables. Then strain the soup through a hair sieve, and take off all the fat. Into this soup put the partridge breasts that have hitherto been preserved, and stew T them for the space of half an hour, adding some white pepper, and plenty of pounded mace. Thicken with cream and flour, and serve up in a tureen. OBSERVATION. This receipt was brought over from Barbary by a British officer; and when the English cook thinks proper to add to it grouse or woodcock, then it may be truly said, that cookery has completed the sum of erapulary indulgence. i 170 FAMILY COOKERY, To stew Lampreys . The lampreys being skinned and cleaned, boil them for a short time in salt and water; then pour the water from them, and put them into a pan, with a bottle of port wine, and some sliced onions and cloves. Keep them for about an hour over a gentle stove fire. Then pour off the wine, and put to it about half a pint of gravy, with as much butter and flour as will make the sauce of a proper thickness. Add lemon-juice, if required. Put all together into a stewpan, and warm up for the table. OBSERVATION. This is a good but expensive dish, on account of the wine.—As this kind of fish, in many particulars, resembles the eel, it dresses very well when stewed after the same manner; in which case, a very con¬ siderable expense will be saved, and the gourmand not much disappointed. The salt and water has a good effect in discharging the muddy taste that lampreys, eels, and tench, often contract from their situation. An Omelette. Take seven eggs, and after beating them well, season with pepper and salt; then add a little shalot cut as small as possible, and some shred parsley. Put into a frying-pan a quarter of a WITH OBSERVATIONS. 171 pound of butter, and after it has come to boiling heat, throw in the eggs, and keep stirring them over a clear fire till the omelette has become thick. After being sufficiently browned on the under-side, double it up, and put it upon a dish, pouring over it a little strong veal gravy. OBSERVATION. The omelette is an extemporaneous dish that ad¬ mits of great variation in its composition. Some cooks put to the eggs grated ham, chives, onions, fresh mushrooms stewed a little, and shred fine, catsup, &c. with all of which the eggs incorporate very well, and form a savoury dish that in general is well received. Meringues. Take the whites of five eggs, and after beating them to a strong froth, add a table-spoonful and a half of refined sugar, finely sifted. Put in the sugar very gently, beating the eggs all the while, but be careful not to beat them too fast. Then having strewed some sugar upon writing-paper, drop the composition upon it, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, and over it sift some fine sugar. Immediately after this, send it to the oven, in which it should remain about twenty minutes. When cold, scoop out with a spoon what remains moist, and fill the cavity with any kind of sweet- i 2 172 FAMILY COOKERY, meat; then join two of the cakes together. Keep in a dry place till used. OBSERVATION. This constitutes a very elegant sweetmeat. And as Archaeus, on all occasions, considers sugar as a very wholesome part of our diet, it will be unreason¬ able to condemn its use for children, especially when combined with acid fruits. To boil a Ham. Soak the ham two days in milk and water; after which, let it gently boil upon the fire, or stove, for the space of eight hours, but with a moderate quantity of water. Add, during the boiling, the coarse parts of any kind of meat, and a few carrots and onions. OBSERVATION. This most excellent method of boiling a ham does not essentially differ from what has been mentioned in a former article. The fresh meat and vegetables have a powerful effect in extracting the salt, and tendering the fibres of the ham, which, by the usual method of boiling, are left salt and hard. Oyster Sauce. Put the required number of oysters into a stewpan, with all their liquor, and a little gravy. Stew for the space of a few minutes, together WITH OBSERVATIONS. 173 with an onion sliced, some scraped horseradish, and a few corns of whole pepper. Then take out the oysters, and beard them; put the beards into the stewpan, with a little more gravy and water, and continue the stewing, in a gentle manner, over a slow fire, for about an hour. Strain the liquor, and thicken it with butter and a little flour. After this, put in the oysters, and warm them gently, taking care that when put into the boat, there be a proper proportion be¬ tween the sauce and the oysters. OBSERVATION. By stewing the beards, the whole flavour of the oyster is preserved, and no part is lost; but care should be taken that the oysters do not become hard by over stewing. The admirers of beef steaks think that a little catsup improves this sauce. To boil Partridges. Truss the partridges, as done for boiled fowls. Boil them in a proper quantity of water, and in about fifteen or twenty minutes they will be suf¬ ficiently done. When ready to be served up, pour over them some rice stewed in gravy, with salt and pepper; the rice should stew in the gravy till it become quite thick, and to this a particular attention should be paid. 174 FAMILY COOKERY, OBSERVATION. Though this is a palatable dish, it is not an in¬ flammatory one; and there is every reason to suppose that it will meet with the approbation of Archasus. An eastern palate may wish for the addition of some curry powder. White Vermicelli Soup. Take three quarts of clear veal stock, and two ounces of vermicelli; boil together for the space of a quarter of an hour. Season with salt. Add the yolks of four eggs, and half a pint of cream* beat well together. Simmer for five minutes; and serve up in a tureen. Be careful not to over¬ boil the vermicelli. OBSERVATION. This soup is both palatable and innocent: it may be given to a child. Veal Collops , White. Cut very thin slices from a fillet of veal, and season them with white pepper, salt, mace, nut¬ meg, and a little lemon-peel. Then put the meat into a stewpan, with a good piece of butter, and to prevent its setting to the pan, keep stirring it about till sufficiently done. Add cream beat with WITH OBSERVATIONS. 175 the yolk of an egg, a short time before serving up, and thicken with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Keep stirring till ready to be sent up. OBSERVATION. This is a neat supper dish, and does not take up much time in the preparation. When intended to be served up in form, egg balls, forcemeat balls, and mushrooms will be required; but as far as I can learn, Archaeus gives the preference to its present simple form. Veal Collops, Brown. Cut the veal into slices, a little larger than when intended to be white, and after beating them with a paste-pin and seasoning them with white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace, put them into a frying-pan, after the butter has become brown. When sufficiently done, put the collops into a stewpan with some good gravy, catsup, essence of anchovy, and lemon-juice. Keep stirring, and when well warmed, serve up with egg balls. OBSERVATION. In preparing veal collops, whether white or brown, the principal art is in the seasoning. A cook who has not a good taste should never attempt a made dish of this kind. 176 FAMILY COOKERY, To stem Pease , mild. Take a pint and a half of young pease, and put them into a stewpan, with two young lettuces and a little water. Stew slowly, till the pease have become sufficiently tender, then add a quarter of a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs. Stir a little, but do not suffer the mixture to boil. Some add a lump of sugar. Season with salt, and serve up hot. OBSERVATION. This method of stewing pease will be acceptable to those who object to gravy and essence of ham. To stem Pease , savoury. Put a quart of pease into a stewpan, and add to them two ounces of butter, a small onion sliced, a coss or cabbage-lettuce, cut in pieces, with a little salt and some hard water. Stew the pease till half done, and thicken with flour and gravy. Then add a spoonful of the essence of ham, and season with Cayenne pepper. Stew till the pease become sufficiently tender, but be careful to keep the fire of a moderate heat, to prevent the pease from sticking to the pan. There can be no ob¬ jection to the addition of a few spoonfuls of good WITH OBSERVATIONS. 177 gravy at first. When pease are very old, they should have a boil in water previous to their being put into the stevvpan. OBSERVATION. Archaeus does not seem quite satisfied with this dish, as he conceives that it contains too many gouty particles, and consequently should be but sparingly used in cases where there is a suspicion of a latent hereditary gout. 1 House not a sleeping lion,’ says Prudence ; and the advice, though it costs nothing, should not be despised. ‘ Hard words and hanging, if your judge be Page,” replies the gourmand, when up to the throat with green fat and venison. Poivrade Sauce. Bone two anchovies, and after pounding them in a marble mortar, add two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard. When well mixed, add two shalots shred very fine, u little white pepper, some shred parsley, and a proper quantity of vinegar. OBSERVATION. This is a very good sauce for cold meat; and there is no reason to think it otherwise than as very whole¬ some, especially when the stomach is not in a state of good digestion. A Cheshire Sandwich . Take anchovies, Cheshire cheese, and butter, i 5 178 FAMILY COOKERY, of each equal parts. Made mustard to the taste. Pound in a marble mortar till all the ingredients become well incorporated. Spread a knife point¬ ful of this upon slices of white bread, and between two pieces put a thin slice of ham, or any kind of cold meat. Press together, and with a sharp knife divide the sandwich into mouthfuls. OBSERVATION. Ignotus has, with some difficulty, obtained Ar- chseus’s permission to insert this sandwich into his Culina. He, therefore, makes it a condition with those of the fair sex, who delight in sandwiches, that they will use their interest in preventing the minister from laying a tax upon them, there being some reason to fear that he means to take them into his budget, with a view to prevent, as much as possible, what he has called an ‘ unnecessary waste of national provision.’ Whatever morality there may be in such a determination, there is but little policy in it, as it is well known that the minister gets more by the wine consumed during these repasts than he possibly could obtain by a tax upon this modern luxury. Oyster Soup. Take a pound of skate, four flounders, and two middling sized eels. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with a sufficiency of water. Season with mace, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, some sliced parsley WITH OBSERVATIONS. 179 roots, white pepper and salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs. After simmering about an hour and a half, strain, and put the liquor into a saucepan. Then take any number of oysters, bearded, and beat them in a marble mortar with the yolks of six hard eggs. Season with white pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; and when the liquor boils, put the oysters and seasoning into it. When it becomes as thick as cream, take it from the fire, and serve it up in a tureen. OBSERVATION. This is a good restorative soup. In the absence of fish, a knuckle of veal may be used. When flounders cannot be obtained, perch make a good substitute for both them and the eel. Veal Broth. Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, to which put two ounces of rice, or vermi¬ celli, a little salt, and a blade of mace. When the meat has become thoroughly boiled, and the liquor reduced to about one half, it may be sent up to table, with or without the meat. But the vermicelli must not be put in at first. OBSERVATION. Ignotus seriously recommends this simple broth to be used by all persons who are in the habit of in- 180 FAMILY COOKERY, dulging in rich soups, and highly seasoned dishes. It will be well received by Archaeus, as it will give him time to clear away the gouty particles that those gentlemen have long and abundantly thrown upon him. If the gourmand did but know the labour he daily imposes upon a faithful old servant, he would now and then give him a few hours of relaxation. Beef Steaks rolled. Take the steaks, and after beating them to make them tender, put upon them any quantity of high-seasoned forcemeat, then roll them up, and secure their form by skewering Fry them in mutton drippings, till they become of a delicate brown, when they should be taken from the fat, in which they had been fried, and put into a stewpan, with some good gravy, a spoonful of red wine, and some catsup. When sufficiently stewed, serve them up with the gravy and a few pickled mushrooms. OBSERVATION. This dish may be considered as a meal in the service of families in middling life>; and as an ad¬ ditional dish, in opulent ones. The inside of a sir¬ loin is the best piece of beef for this purpose, being extremely tender. Family Beef. Take a brisket of beef; and after mixing half WITH OBSERVATIONS. 181 a pound of coarse sugar, a quarter of an ounce of salt-petre, two ounces of ba}^ salt, and a pound of common salt, rub the mixture well into the beef; then put it into an earthen pan, and turn it every day. Let the meat remain in this pickle for the space of a fortnight, when it may be boiled and sent up to the table with savoys, or other greens. When cold and cut into slices, it eats well with poivrade sauce. OBSERVATION. Upon this dish nothing need be said, further than that it is a wholesome family dish, and attended with little expense beyond the original purchase. Ar~ chaeus says, that this kind of cookery is worthy of imitation, as it would save him a great deal of trouble in his examination of the cliyliferous process. To stcxv a Tuck. To a pint of strong gravy put two small onions sliced, a little whole white pepper, a bit of ginger, and a few leaves of thyme. Take a tame duck, lard, and half roflst it; then put it into a stewpan with the gravy, &c. and after stewing ten minutes, put in a quarter of a pint of red wine. When enough, take out the duck, skim off the fat, and thicken the gravy in the usual way. Lay the 182 FAMILY COOKERY, duck in the dish, pouring the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon. OBSERVATION. This is a dish of French extraction. Spinage and Cream. The spinage being boiled and squeezed, put it into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a little nutmeg and salt. Keep stirring it over the fire with a wooden spoon; then add as much cream as will make it of a proper thickness. Send up garnished with fried bread. OBSERVATION. In this way of dressing, spinage is very pleasant; but perhaps it would be more wholesome if dressed only with butter and salt. To make it neat in ap¬ pearance, all the strong fibres must be taken out, and the substance beat with a wooden spoon, when in the pan. When made acid with lemon-juice or vinegar, it may be put under a fricandeau, in the place of sorrel. The cream to be left out. Some persons prefer strong gravy to cream, and the alteration is not a bad one. ^ A Ragout of Oysters. Chop a few truffles, fresh mushrooms, shalots, and parsley; put these into a stewpan with a WITH OBSERVATIONS. 183 piece of butter, some good gravy, some of the oyster liquor, and a little white wine. Reduce this sauce to a proper consistence. Then having ready three or four score of oysters, bearded, and gently parboiled, put them to the sauce, to be warmed without boiling. OBSERVATION. As truffles and fresh mushrooms cannot at all times be obtained, the oysters may be well dressed by making the sauce with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some strong gravy, a few spoonfuls of the oyster liquor, some shalot, and parsley. All kinds of shell fish are wholesome and restorative ; oysters in particular. The Romans put a high value upon them; and it appears from Apicius, De Re Coqui- naria, that they had a method of transporting them to countries far removed from the sea. An Omelette. Beat up eight eggs with a little cream, chopped parsley, a bit of onion, or a few chives, pepper, and salt. Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, and when properly heated, pour in the above preparation. Stir till the cake is formed; and when sufficiently browned, put it into a dish, and double it over, to cover the raw appearance of the eggs; or the surface may be browned with a salamander. When sent up, pour over it some good gravy. 184 FAMILY COOKERY, OBSERVATION. This is an excellent omelette, as it consumes but little time in the preparation. The omelette is a dish of great antiquity, and as a proof of its whole¬ someness, it is a favourite in almost every country in Europe. In the composition it admits of great variety, some specimens of which have been already given, and more may be found in a French book of cookery by M. Massialot. Omelettes should be made thick, to appear full in the mouth. Some persons add a little grated nutmeg, and leave out the onion. In England, garlic, shalot, and onion, are sparingly used in all made dishes. Solid Sausages. Cut large thin slices of veal, and prepare a seasoning with white pepper, salt, chopped parsley, shalots, mushrooms, scraped ham, and a little mace. Roll the meat into the form of sausages, and put the seasoning in the inside; then tie them up, and stew them slowly with some strong gravy, and a glass of wdiite wine. When enough, put the veal upon a dish, and pour the sauce over it, after being skimmed. OBSERVATION. This is a very palatable dish, and of easy digestion. It is a meal for an economist who prefers table beer to port wine. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 185 To stew Lobsters, mild. When the lobsters are boiled, pick the meat clean from the shells. Take half a pint of water, a little mace, a little whole white pepper, some salt, and the shells of the lobsters; boil till all the goodness be drawn from the insides of the shells ; then strain, and put the liquor into a stewpan with the flesh of the lobsters, a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonfuls of white wine, a little juice of lemon, and some bread cruras. When sufficiently stewed, serve up in a proper shaped dish. OBSERVATION. As in this method of stewing a lobster very little seasoning is put in, I shall consider it as a dish, that, in a medical light, differs very little from the flesh of an undressed lobster. I do therefore recommend it as a restorative, under the restriction as to quantity. A Dunelm of Crab. Beat the flesh and the inside of a crab in a marble mortar with some white pepper, salt, nut¬ meg, and crums of bread ; then add some gravy, and a little wine. Put the whole into a stewpan, with some butter rolled in flour; and when 186 FAMILY COOKERY, thoroughly warmed, add a little vinegar, or lemon-juice. OBSERVATION. This dish takes its name from an ancient city in the north of England, where ‘ good eating’ and ‘ good living’ are clerically considered as S3 r nonimous terms. It wears a gouty complexion. To stew Lobster's. When the lobsters are sufficiently boiled, pick the meat from the shells, and put it into a stew- pan with a little melted butter, and a table-spoon¬ ful of essence of anchovy; together with white pepper, salt, and mace to the taste. When a hen lobster is used, the coral, found in the body, must be dissolved in the melted butter, which will considerably add to the beauty of the dish. It will almost be unnecessary to say, that in con¬ sideration of the previous boiling of the lobster, very little heat will be required when in the stew- pan. OBSERVATION. Ignotus has much satisfaction in saying, that this dish will be found highly gratifying to the palate, without doing an injury to the ponstitution. Westphalia Loaves. Mix four ounces of grated Westphalia, or WITH OBSERVATIONS. 187 English ham, with a pound of mealy potatoes, mashed with butter, salt, and two eggs. Form into small loaves, and fry them in butter. Serve up with brown gravy. OBSERVATION. To persons accustomed to savoury things, these loaves will be more acceptable than potatoes mashed in the usual way. They give a relish to roast veal, and make a good supper dish when presented in any fanciful form. Tomata Sauce. Take tomatas, when ripe, and bake them in an oven, till they become perfectly soft, then scoop them out with a tea-spoon, and rub the pulp through a sieve. To the pulp put as much Chili vinegar as will bring it to a proper thick¬ ness, with salt to the taste. Add to each quart half an ounce of garlic, and one ounce of shalot, both sliced very thin. Boil during the space of a quarter of an hour, taking care to skim the mixture very well. Then strain, and take out the garlic and shalot. After standing till quite cold, put the sauce into stone bottles, and let it stand a few days before it is corked up. If, when the bottles are opened, the sauce should appear to be in a fermenting state, put more salt to it, 188 FAMILY COOKERY, and boil it over again. If well prepared, this sauce should be of the thickness of rich cream, when poured out. OBSERVATION. This is a charming sauce for all kinds of meat, whether hot or cold. The tomata must be raised in a hothouse, and afterwards it will grow in the open air, if placed against a wall in a warm situation. Being a pleasant acid, it is much used by the Spa¬ niards and Portuguese in their soups. In botanical language, it is the lycopersicon esculentum. Linn. Love-apple. A Cream Cheese. Make a frame of old oak (for fir would give a taste) eight inches and a half long, three inches deep, three inches wide within, and open at top and bottom. Take a quart, or more, of cream from the vessel before it is stirred for churning, and place a piece of linen cloth in the frame, sufficiently large to hang over the edge. This will act as a siphon to drain off the whey, as no pressure whatever must be used for that purpose. Then pour the cream into the frame, or mould, and set it on a dish, a table, or on a few rushes. Change the cheese daily into a clean dry cloth, till it begin to adhere to it, when it will be in a proper state to be coated once a day, with fresh WITH OBSERVATIONS. 189 leaves of the stinging nettle. After this, it will soon be ripe for use. OBSERVATION. This excellent cheese can only be made in sum¬ mer, when there is a sufficient degree of heat to ripen it. Besides, the cream is the richest at that season. Some persons prefer this kind of cheese in its sour state, before it has become perfectly ripe. Others again object to its richness when made of all cream, and recommend a mixture of cream and milk, made into a curd with rennet. The goodness of a cheese, made in that manner, depends on a due proportion between the cream and the milk, or to speak more philosophically, between the oily and cheesy matter. A Giblet Soup. Take a leg of beef, by which is meant that coarse part which is a little above and a little below r the hock, a scrag of mutton, the same of veal, and the required quantity of water. Stew these with turnips, leeks, carrots, &c. for the space of four or five hours; then strain off, suppose three or four quarts, and put in three sets of goose giblets well picked. Let these stew till they be¬ come quite tender, putting in, an hour before they are done, a quart of young pease, a coss let¬ tuce, and some seasoning, according to taste. To take off a certain bitter taste, it will be good 190 FAMILY COOKERY, cookery to scald the pease and lettuce before they are put into the soup. Strain, and serve up. OBSERVATION. This soup was communicated to Ignotus by a sur¬ viving friend of the celebrated Chace Price, Esq. who was supposed to keep the best table of his time. A Fish Pie. Sheet the sides of a dish with puff paste, and put into it the following ingredients, after being well seasoned. Put a layer of pounded sea biscuit at the bottom of the dish. Upon it put some slices of cod or holibut, then a layer of lobster, with some oysters cut into quarters, then a layer of pounded biscuit with a spoonful of essence of anchovy, and the liquor of the oysters, together with a few spoonfuls of gravy. Upon the biscuit put some pieces of butter, and lastly cover w r ith paste, and send the pie to the oven. When ready to be served up, put in a few spoonfuls of gravy. OBSERVATION. This is a good savoury dish when prepared by a skilful cook. A Succedaneum for Green Pease in Winter. Take the tops of very early sown pease some' WITH OBSERVATIONS. 191 time before they come into blossom. Boil them in salt and water for a few minutes, to take off the bitterness. Then chop them, and put them into the soup already prepared, with a bit of sugar. OBSERVATION. Of this succedaneum, Ignotus has not had any ex¬ perience ; but as the receipt was communicated by a culinary amateur, he has not a doubt of its an¬ swering the intended purpose. ‘ Fiat experimentum Sausages without Skins. Take an equal quantity of any kind of meat and suet. When separately chopt very fine, beat them well in a mortar, with sage, nutmeg, white pepper, and salt. Then, with the yolks of eggs, and some bread crums, form into the shape of sausages, and let them be fried with very little heat. OBSERVATION. The advantages of this preparation are, that we may have sausages, when it may not be in our power to procure skins. There is a great variety of sausage meat, so that the cook need not be tied down to any rules in the composition. Mutton Rumps. Boil six rumps of mutton for the space of 192 FAMILY COOKERY, fifteen minutes; then take them out, anti after cutting them into two pieces, put them into a stewpan, with half a pint of strong gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with a few cloves, a little salt, and Cayenne pepper. Stew till ten¬ der; when the rumps and onion may be taken out, and the gravy thickened with butter, rolled in flour ; to which may be added some browning, and the juice of half a lemon. Boil till the sauce become smooth, but take care that it be not too thick. Then put in the rumps again, and after they have become sufficiently warm, serve them up, and garnish with beet root and horseradish. OBSERVATION. Persons who delight in fat meat will be pleased with a dish that alfords them enough of it. But Ignotus is of opinion, that the rumps will in general be more acceptable when eaten with stewed sorrel or acidulated spinage. It is remarkable, that in former times, rumps, kidneys, and trotters were considered in all large families as perquisites of the cook. A Mock Turtle Soup. Take a calf’s head with the skin on, and after scalding off the hair, cut the horny part into pieces of about an inch square. Wash and clean them well, and put them into a stewpan, with I WITH OBSERVATIONS. 193 four quarts of broth made in the following manner: Take six pounds of lean beef, two calf’s feet, two pair of goose giblets, one onion, two carrots, a turnip, a shank of ham, a head of celery, some cloves, and w hole white pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, a few truffles, and eight quarts of water. Stew these till the broth be re¬ duced to four quarts, then strain, and put in the head cut into pieces, with some marjoram, thyme, and parsley chopped small, a few cloves and mace, some Cayenne pepper, a few green onions, a shalot chopped, a few fresh mushrooms, or mushroom powder, and a pint of Madeira. Stew gently till reduced to two quarts. Then heat some broth, thickened with flour, and the yolks of two eggs, and keep stirring it till it nearly comes to boil. Add any quantity of this broth to the other soup, and stew together for an hour. When taken from the fire, add some lemon or orange juice, and a few r forcemeat balls, heated in water, but not fried. The quantity of the additional broth determines the strength of the soup, so that much is left to the taste and discretion of the cook. OBSERVATION. Though this soup was much admired at the Lon¬ don Tavern, when Mr. Farley was the principal cook, K 194 FAMILY COOKERY, Ignotus is of opinion that it would be equally good if the mode of stewing was made less troublesome. Of this dish it may be truly said, ‘ there is death in the pot.’ Stewed Cod, after the Dutch manner. Take an earthen vessel of equal dimensions at top and bottom, and fit it with a cover. Into it put a layer of cod with a little salt, then a layer of pounded biscuit, over which put some pieces of butter, then a layer of cod, then a layer of biscuit and butter, and in this manner proceed till the vessel be nearly full. Finish by putting some pieces of butter at the top. Send the vessel to the oven after putting on the earthen cover. OBSERVATION. This is a good economical dish. To elegance it has no pretensions. The Dutch eat it with oiled butter and lemon-juice. Ignotus thinks that a few spoonfuls of gravy would improve this dish. Mock Tomata Sauce. Roast any quantity of sharp-tasted apples in an oven, and when sufficiently done, let them be pulped in the usual manner. Put the pulp into a marble mortar, with as much turmeric as will give it the exact colour of tomata sauce, and as WITH OBSERVATIONS. 1£5 much Chili vinegar as will give it the same acid o o that the tomata has. When uniformly mixed, give a gentle boil in a tinned saucepan, having previously shred into each quart a quarter of an ounce of garlic, an ounce of shalot, a tea-spoon¬ ful of Cayenne pepper, and a little salt. When cold, take out the garlic and shalot, and put the sauce into stone bottles. This sauce should be of the consistence of a thick syrup, which may be regulated by the Chili vinegar. OBSERVATION. The only difference between this and the genuine tomata sauce is the substituting the pulp of apple for the pulp of tomata, and giving the colouring by the means of turmeric ; a root that constitutes one of the ingredients of the curry powder. This is a good imitation. A Shrimp Sandwich. Put a layer of potted shrimps between two pieces of white bread and butter, and after press¬ ing the sandwich gently down, cut it with a sharp knife neatly round the edges. It is usual, before closing in, to spread a little made mustard over the meat. OBSERVATION. Potted meats of every kind make elegant sand¬ wiches. These, when cut into mouthfuls, look bet- K 2 196 FAMILY COOKERY, ter than when sent up in large pieces, as in that re¬ duced shape they may be taken up with a fork, and conveyed to the mouth of the fair one, without soil¬ ing her fingers or gloves. To dress Spinage. Pick and wash the spinage well, and put it into a pan, with a little salt, and a few spoonfuls of water, taking care to shake the pan often. When stewed tender, take it out, and put it into a sieve to drain, and give it a squeeze. Return it into the stewpan, after being well beat, and put to it some gravy or cream, with white pepper, salt, and a piece of butter. Stew about a quarter of an hour, and stir it frequently. When served up, a few poached eggs may, or may not, be put upon it. OBSERVATION. This is a very wholesome dish, and, in general, will be better received than when spinage is sent up with only a bit of butter, and a little salt. It is gently laxative, and consequently acts as one of Archasus’s assistants. Gourmands should reverence a dish possessed of this quality ; but they will find it most wholesome, when simply dressed. Lamb Chops. Cut a neck of lamb neatly into chops, and WITH OBSERVATIONS. 197 rub them over with egg yolk; then strew over them some bread crums, mixed with a little clove, mace, white pepper, and salt. Fry to a nice brown, and place the chops regularly round a dish, leaving an opening in the middle, to be filled with stewed spinage, cucumber, or sorrel. OBSERVATION. Spinage and sorrel are two of the most wholesome vegetables served up at table, and should never be allowed to retire without being abundantly noticed. To stew Pease in a savoury way. Take a quart of green pease, two cabbage- lettuces cut small, a large Portugal onion cut into slices, or a small English one. Put these into a stewpan, with half a pint of hard water, some salt, a little white pepper, a little mace, and some grated nutmeg. Stew for a quarter of an hour, then put in a spoonful of catsup, and four ounces of butter rolled in flour. Shake the pan often, and when the peas are sufficiently tendered, serve them up. OBSERVATION. This method of stewing pease is evidently of French extraction ; and the cookery is not to be re¬ proved. The dish is very grateful to an English palate. With us, a small bit of sugar is thought to improve the taste of green pease, whether they are 198 FAMILY COOKERY, sent up in a simple or a compound state. This dish is rendered more savoury by the addition ot some good gravy and less butter; but I do not recom¬ mend the animalizing of vegetables. Beef Coll ops. Take steaks from the rump, and cut them into pieces in the form of Scotch collops, but a little larger. Having hacked and floured them, put the collops into a stewpan, in which a suf¬ ficient quantity of butter had been previously melted. Fry them quick for about two minutes ; then put in a pint of gravy, with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and season with white pepper and salt. To these add some pickled cucumber sliced very thin, a few capers, part of a pickled walnut sliced thin, and a little onion shred small. After remaining in the stewpan for the space of five minutes, or a little longer, the collops may be dished up, and sent hot to the table. Garnish with lemon, or beet-root pickled in vinegar. OBSERVATION. This dish has something of the appearance of a meal, and as it does not contain any very high sea¬ soning, it may be eat in perfect safety. WITH OBSERVATIONS. Trembling Beef. Take a brisket of beef, and boil it gently for the space of five or six hours, or till made very tender. Season the water with salt, some all¬ spice, two onions, two turnips, and one carrot. Put a piece of butter into a stewpan, and when melted, put in two spoonfuls of flour, taking care to keep it stirring till it become quite smooth. Then put in a quart of gravy, a spoonful of cat¬ sup, some turnips and carrots cut into small pieces. Stew till the roots are become tender, and season with pepper and salt. Skim off the fat, and when the beef is put into the dish, pour the sauce over it. OBSERVATION. When properly cooked, this dish is generally well received, being very tender. A small rump may be dressed in the same manner. To stew Tench. After scaling and cleaning the fish, dredge them with flour. Then put them into a pan, and fry them in sweet drippings till they are made brown. Then take them out, and put them on a sieve to drain. When cold, put the tench into a stewpan, with a little mace, Cayenne 200 FAMILY COOKERY, pepper, lemon-peel shred, a little scraped horse¬ radish, a pint of gravy, and the same quantity of port wine. Stew gently for the space of half an hour ; then add a little melted butter, two spoon¬ fuls of walnut catsup, a little lemon-juice, and salt to the taste. OBSERVATION. However pleasing to the palate tench may be when dressed in this manner, it is certainly not so wholesome as when boiled, and sent up with plain melted butter made acid. This fish was formerly recommended as a sovereign remedy in cases of jaundice; and it is probable that the golden colour of the fish, when in high season, induced the igno¬ rant to suppose that it was given by Providence as a signature to point out its medicinal quality. This doctrine of signatures subsisted for a considerable time among medical practitioners, and gave rise to the names of many plants, from the resemblance of their leaves and roots to the form of many parts of the human body; such as lungwort, liverwort, spleen- wort, pilewort, &c. In the present age of quackery and imposition, Ignotus will not be surprised to see a revival of this practice, as making part of the Occult Science of Medicine , in opposition to the ra¬ tional practice of those men wdio combine honesty with their professional knowledge. To dry Haddocks. Take haddocks of two or three pounds in weight, and after taking out the gills and eyes* WITH OBSERVATIONS. 201 gut them, and remove all the blood from the back bone. Rub them dry, and put a little salt in the bodies and eyes. Lay the fish on a board for one night, then hang them up in the kitchen, or any dry place. After hanging two or three days, the fish will be fit for use. When to be dressed, skin them and rub them over with egg- yolk, and strew upon them some bread crums; then lay them before the fire, and baste them till they become sufficiently brown. Serve up, either round or split open, w T ith egg sauce. OBSERVATION. Haddocks, preserved in this manner, will oc¬ casionally prove a great accommodation to families resident in the country, and whose distance from a great town may prevent their being regularly sup¬ plied with fish. But independent of this conve- niency, Archaeus contends, that studious and se¬ dentary persons should indulge more freely in the use of fish than those who pursue a more active life. The less solid nutriment supplied by fish than by flesh, explains this opinion very rationally; but he goes further, by saying, that the gluten of fish affords the greatest quantity of synovial particles, as without their regular and refreshing supply, the synovia in the joints of sedentary persons would be¬ come too thick ; and consequently those men would be in danger of becoming as immoveable as their arm chairs. Ignotus hopes that this Archaean theory will be embraced by those medical and chemical lecturex-s, who delight in being continually whirled K 5 202 FAMILY COOKERY, round in the vortex of new opinions. For a further illustration of this system, the curious reader is re¬ ferred to the 108 th page of this collection, in which he will find a sufficient field for ingenuity to work upon. Koumiss. Take a pint of cream, a pint of buttermilk, two quarts of new milk, and two lumps of sugar. Mix together, and put them into a wooden vessel shaped like a churn. Place this in a corner of a room where a fire is kept, and cover with a cloth. On the second or third day, the preparation will become what, in this country, is called laboured , when a degree of acidity will be observed. It should then be beaten in with a strong staff, in order that the mixture may be¬ come smooth. The beating in should be con¬ tinued daily, much depending on that operation. As soon as it has become sufficiently thick and sour, it will be fit for use. When used as a me¬ dicine, no less than a quart should be drank daily during the term of six months ; but inde¬ pendent of that idea, it makes a pleasant and wholesome supper when mixed with sugar, straw¬ berries, preserved fruits, or crums of bread. When new made, a little of the old should be WITH OBSERVATIONS. 203 retained as a ferment, in which case the butter¬ milk will not be required. OBSERVATION. The ravages made in this country by consump¬ tion, and the hitherto unavailing course of medicines in stopping the progress of that baneful disease, will justify an appeal from an enlightened nation to one where there is scarce a single ray of science. Dr. Grieve, who resided many years in Russia, has pub¬ lished, in the Philosophical Transactions of Edin¬ burgh, an account of the koumiss, which in Tartary is held in high estimation as a cure for consumptive complaints, though in Russia Proper it is as little known as in Great Britain. Under Dr. Grieve’s respectable authority, Ignotus most earnestly recommends a trial of the koumiss in hectic, and incipient consumption. One powerful argument is attached to this acidulous cream ; it is easily obtained, and when obtained, the expense is small. Among the Tartars, mares’ milk is used; but Dr. Grieve has found that any kind of milk may be used in the preparation of koumiss, provided the milk be not contaminated by bad hay or turnips. When used as diet, the whey should be let oft’ by a spigot at the bottom of the vessel, before beating in. By the use of koumiss, Ignotus, at the age of seventy- three, was restored from a state of great debility to the enjoyment of vigorous health. Welsh Beef. Take a round of beef, and rub into it two ounces of powdered saltpetre. After standing six hours, season well with pepper, salt, and a 204 FAMILY COOKERY, little allspice pounded. Let the beef stand six¬ teen days in the brine, turning it frequently in that time. After washing it well with the pickle, put it into an earthen vessel, and bake it iri an oven, with a good deal of beef suet over and under it. Cover it with a coarse paste, and suffer it to remain six or eight hours in the oven. When sufficiently done, pour the gravy from the beef, and let it stand till cold. It will keep two months, and all the time retain its goodness. OBSERVATION. All large families, when resident in the country, will find this a most accommodating dish. It is ready at a moment's warning to go upon actual service. It is a little army of itself, when flanked by mustard and vinegar. To stew Bed. Cabbage. Shred the cabbage very small, and mix with it some slices of onion, white pepper, and salt. Stew over a slow fire with some gravy. When become sufficiently tender, thicken it with butter rolled in flour, a few minutes before serving up. A few spoonfuls of good vinegar are usually added. When white cabbage is used, it becomes more savoury by being fried previous to the stewing. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 205 OBSERVATION. This is a very wholesome sauce for any kind of plain meat. An Oyster Pie with Sweet-breads. Sheet the sides of a dish with puff paste, and put into it the following ingredients, after being seasoned with a due mixture of white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Take four sweet-breads, and after boiling them, cut them into thin slices. At the bottom of the dish put a layer of bread crums, then a layer of sweet-breads, then a layer of bread crums, and lastly tw'o score of bearded oysters. Repeat the layers if the dish require it, then pour on the liquor of the oysters with a spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little veal gravy. Over all put a layer of bread crums, with a few ounces of butter. Cover with a crust, and send the pie to the oven to be lightly baked. Just before sending up, pour in some warm gravy, with a little lemon- juice. OBSERVATION. This dish may be served up either at dinner or supper. Arduous does not consider it as contraband. 206 FAMILY COOKERY, To 'preserve Eggs for eating in the shell. Boil any number of fresh eggs for the space of one minute, and when wanted for use, after any length of time, let them be reboiled for the same space of time as at first. OBSERVATION. It may appear singular, that eggs, after the second boiling, should not be more affected, as to hardness, than after the first boiling; and the reason seems to be, that the heat given by the second boiling only warms the contents of the egg to nearly the same degree of heat that was produced at the end of the first boiling. Ignotus cannot at present ascertain many particulars that are embraced by this extraor¬ dinary experiment, but that he may be enabled to be more decided, he has ordered one dozen of eggs to be boiled for the exact space of one minute. Those he proposes to dispose of in the following manner: Three to be reboiled after three months, three after six months, three after nine months, and the remaining three after twelve months. This will ascertain, with tolerable exactness, the time that eggs may be preserved in a sweet and palatable state for eating in the shell at breakfast. But as the white suffers a degree of coagulation, it is evident that eggs, so prepared, cannot be used for culinary purposes, where the white and yolk are required to be beat together. However, where the yolk only is wanted, as for salads, eggs thus prepared answer the purpose of fresh eggs. To bring this extraordinary experiment to a decided point, Ignotus begs leave to repeat a saying of Lord Bacon, to such of his readers as consider experiment to be the foundation of culinary knowledge —Fiat experimentum.’ WITH OBSERVATIONS. 207 Ignotus has great satisfaction in informing his readers, that the experiment instituted by him last year, has succeeded to his wishes, the last three of the twelve eggs proving good at the end of the twelve months. The white was a little tougher than a fresh laid egg, but the yolk showed no difference. To roast Larks. When the larks are trussed, put a sage or vine leaf over their breasts; then put them on a long skewer, and between every lark put a thin piece of bacon. Tie the skewer to the spit, and roast the birds before a clear brisk fire. Baste with butter, and on removing the leaves, strew over them some crums of bread, mixed with a little flour. When neatly roasted, put the larks round a dish, with bread crums, fried in butter, in the middle; or they may be put upon the bread crums. OBSERVATION. This is a French way of roasting larks. Care should be taken to make them appear as large as possible; perhaps it would be an improvement to fill the birds with forcemeat made of beef, with suet and seasoning. To this Archaeus can have no ob¬ jection, as such a trifling dish is beneath the notice of the thorough-bred gourmand. 208 FAMILY COOKERY, To dress a Code Pheasant. Stuff the inside of a pheasant cock with the lean part of a sirloin of beef minced small, and season with pepper and salt. Roast the pheasant in the usual way, and take care that the stuffing do not escape. OBSERVATION. The gravy coming from the beef diffuses itself through the flesh of the pheasant, thereby rendering it more juicy and tender. Veal being a white meat, may be preferable to beef. This bird is usually larded, but many persons object to the taste of bacon, after being exposed to a dry culinary heat. A Calf’s Head dressed Turtle fashion. Take five pounds of a knuckle of veal, three pounds of lean beef, eight or ten onions previously fried in half a pound of butter. Put these into a proper vessel with a sufficient quantity of water, to form a strong broth, adding, at the same time, a spoonful of whole white pepper, three ancho¬ vies, some lemon-peel, some cloves and mace, and some salt. Take a calf’s head with the skin on, and the hair scalded off, and boil it separately in water; when enough, cut it into pieces about half an inch square, and put it into the gravy after being strained from the meat. At this time, put WITH OBSERVATIONS. 209 in a pint of Madeira. Give a short boil, and put in some hard eggs and forcemeat balls. Then serve up as hot as possible. OBSERVATION. This is a very good dish, and if properly made will not discredit the cook. If Archeeus be in a good humour, he will throw off some of the gouty particles it contains; but if the dish be too often repeated, the gourmand must not presume upon that kindness on the part of Archaeus. The best policy that he can observe towards keeping Archaeus in good hu¬ mour, is to be in the habit of ordering his cook to prepare for him a good maigre soup on the following day. A Spanish Olio. Take veal, beef, and mutton, of each half a pound, eight onions, two cloves of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a little mace, two or three cloves, six turnips, one parsnip, six carrots, some cab¬ bage, endive, celery, pumpkin, and sorrel. Have ready a fowl, or a partridge skinned. Put all into a pan with a sufficient quantity of water, and let the simmering continue for five or six hours. Salt to the taste. OBSERVATION. With an exception to the garlic, this dish does not materially differ from the stews of our own country. It is perfectly wholesome. The pumpkin 210 FAMILY COOKERY, grows freely with us, and in soups is greatly prefer able to the turnip. To dress a Calf’s Pluck. Boil the lights and a small part of the liver of a calf. Roast the heart, after stuffing it with sweet herbs, parsley, suet, bread crums, white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-peel, all mixed up with the yolk of an egg. When the lights and liver are boiled, mince them very small, and put them into a saucepan, with a little gravy and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Season with pepper and salt, and add a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. Fry the other part of the liver, together with some slices of bacon. When to be served up, lay the mincemeat at the bottom, the heart in the middle, and the fried liver and bacon upon the meat. OBSERVATION. This is a good dish for families where economy is required. The plentiful store of pulmonary particles contained in it cannot fail of being highly acceptable to Archams, when consumptive persons are the ob¬ jects of his attention ; but Ignotus is inclined to think that the dish would be more acceptable to him, if it contained fewer inflammatory ingredients. He therefore recommends the lights to be simply boiled in milk and water, and after being minced, to be stewed in broth, with a little butter and salt. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 211 When so dressed, he is confident that they would soon wrest the palm from the hands of some men who have amassed considerable fortunes from the credulity of mankind. Whatever may be the success of' his theory, he is confident that it rests upon as good a foundation as Dr. Godbold’s Balsam, or Dr. Beddoe’s Airy Nothing, to which the doctor has endeavoured to give ‘ a local habitation and a name.’ To boil a Ham. Rub the ham over with salt, and put it to soak in water for the space of four days, rubbing it afresh, and changing the water every day. Then for two days more soak it in skimmed milk, after which simmer it over a slow fire for eighteen hours, part one day, and part the next day. OBSKRVATION. In this manner of bailing a ham, there is much good sense, as it most effectually tenders the meat, and gives it a rich and delicate taste. A wholesome Soup. Take a few slices of ham, and put them at the bottom of a stewpan. Over them put a knuckle of veal cut into small pieces. Then add carrots, turnips, two or three onions, two heads of celery, a small sprig of thyme, three or four 212 FAMILY COOKERY, cloves, a blade of mace, and some white pepper¬ corns. To these put a pint of good broth, and draw down the ingredients over a gentle fire for the space of twenty minutes, taking care not to suffer them to burn, and yet to be brought so low as to appear of a fine glaze. Then add a few quarts of broth, and the moment that the soup comes to boil, skim it well; after this, add about a pint of cold water, which will make the scum to rise again, and render the soup clear. Con¬ tinue the stewing for the space of two or three hours, and then strain. Have ready a carrot, a turnip, two onions, a head of celery, four cabbage lettuces, and a handful of sorrel, all boiled in water for the space of five minutes. Then strain the water from the vegetables, and put them into the soup. Boil gently until the roots are become sufficiently tender. Just before the soup is sent up, put to it a small portion of chopped chervil, which will add to the flavour. Add a small lump of sugar, and salt to the taste. OBSERVATION. When prepared by a judicious cook, this is a wholesome and palatable soup. The sorrel gives it an elegant acidity. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 213 A Brown Colouring for Made Dishes. Take four ounces of fine sugar, and after beating it small, put it into a frying-pan, with an ounce of butter. Set the pan over a clear fire, and keep stirring the mixture till it become frothy, when the sugar will be dissolved. Then hold the pan a little higher over the fire, and when the sugar and butter become of a good brown colour, pour in a little red wine, and stir them well toge¬ ther. Then add more wine, stirring the mixture all the time. Put in the rind of a lemon, a little salt, three spoonfuls of mushroom catsup, two or three blades of mace, six cloves, four shalots, and half an ounce of Jamaica pepper. Boil slowly for the space of ten minutes, then pour the whole into a basin, and when cold, bottle it for use, having first skimmed it well. OBSERVATION. This seems to be an useful article, being well cal¬ culated for housekeepers who are resident in the country. A Mild Curry. Cut chicken, rabbit, veal, or mutton, as for a fricassee. Put any of these into a stewpan, with as much water as will cover the meat, together 214 FAMILY COOKEItY, with a few silver-skinned onions sliced, and some salt. Daring the time of stewing, skim the sur¬ face, and when the chicken, or other meat, has become tender, put to the liquor, now become the gravy, two table-spoonfuls of curry powder, with lemon juice, or vinegar, to the taste. The first in preference. Then boil a few minutes longer, when the dish may be served up. OBSERVATION. This favourite dish of the Indies is invariably served up with rice, to the boiling of which the ut¬ most attention must be paid, in order that it may ap¬ pear delicately white, and every grain in a state of separation. These effects are produced by putting the rice into water, and letting it gently simmer over a slow fire. When it has become sufficiently swelled, add a little cold water. Strain from the water, and serve it up, to be used with the curry. The above is a very mild curry ; but if wished to be of a hotter kind, then add Cayenne pepper to the taste. A Fricandcau of Veal. Under the udder part of a leg of veal there is a large piece of meat. From this cut off all the flit and skin. Then lard it with fat bacon, and give it a boil for the space of two minutes, only, in order to harden the bacon. Stew the meat gently in some broth, with roots and spices, WITH OBSERVATIONS. 215 until it become quite tender. The broth being well skimmed from grease, let it be reduced so as to form a glaze over the fricandeau, which must be sent up to the table upon sorrel, stewed in the following manner. Take five or six hand- fuls of sorrel, and after washing it well, put it into a stewpan with a bit of butter. Let it stew for the space of ten minutes, after which, rub it through a fine hair sieve, and put it into a small stewpan with a very little gravy, some white pep¬ per and salt, and a small lump of sugar. Give it a gentle boil, and after pouring it into a dish, place the fricandeau upon it. OBSERVATION. * As this dish is a corrector of putrescency, it is much in favour with Archseas. Should the sorrel lose much of its acidity during the stewing, it may be regained by the addition of a little lemon-juice or vinegar. Ignotus had it hinted, by a culinary ama¬ teur, that partridges, larded and stewed in broth with spices, would make a good fricandeau. A Green Pease Soup, with Rice. Put two quarts of old pease into a stewpan, with some spoonfuls of veal broth, a piece of butter, two or three sliced onions, one carrot, a turnip, and a small head of celery. Stew those 216 FAMILY COOKERY, together for the space of fifteen minutes, taking care that the ingredients do not burn. Then add, by degrees, the required quantity of good veal broth, till all the vegetables have become so tender as to be capable of being rubbed through a tammy, or a coarse napkin. Season to the taste, and add to the soup, so strained, about two tea-cupfuls of the juice of spinage; but the green¬ ing is better performed by a large handful of spinage, separately boiled, and rubbed through, along with the pease and other ingredients. The soup being so far prepared, add to it some spoon¬ fuls of rice boiled very tender; then take five or six yolks of eggs, and after beating them with about half a pint of cream, strain through a sieve to keep out a disagreeable part of the whites. Mix this with the soup, and keep stirring it for about half a minute, without ever permitting it to boil, as in that case it would curdle. OBSERVATION. This is a most excellent soup when prepared by a judicious cook; and being out of the common way, Ignotus is proud of its introduction. Should it be thought too rich, the egg and cream may be omitted. A Dish, named Common Sense. Professional men have an undoubted right WITH OBSERVATIONS. 217 to their hoars of relaxation, for, as iEsop ob¬ serves, 4 If the bow be kept continually bent, it will in time lose its elasticity.’ But the misfor¬ tune is, the employment of these hours is not always left to those who have the best right to dispose of them, but are expected to be at the disposal of others, who are but imperfectly quali¬ fied to form a judgment upon them. Professional men who employ their leisure hours in fiddling, cards, and tea-drinking, usually pass their days without censure; but others, who wish to mix utility with their amusements, are sure to bring down a swarm of undiscerning critics. Of this, examples are innumerable. Bishop Hoadley wrote a play. Dean Swift one day wrote a ser¬ mon ; and on the following day amused himself with 4 Advice to Servants.’ Erasmus wrote a treatise in praise of 4 Folly.’ And a great chan¬ cellor of England amused himself with disserta¬ tions that had no connection with his legal department. Dr. Martin Lister, physician to Queen Anne, wrote a commentary on Apicius’s 4 Art of Cookery.’ Bishop Warburton, after writing his 4 Divine Legation of Moses,’ amused himself with a commentary on the plays of Shake¬ speare ; and Dr. Tucker, Dean of Gloucester, on 218 FAMILY COOKEllY, the days that he could be spared from his sacred duty, employed himself in writing useful political tracts, that had but a slender connexion with his profession. Bishop Watson gave up his leisure hours to chemistry, agriculture, and planting, retaining at the same time the duties of his function with becoming dignity. Bishop Hors¬ ley’s leisure hours enlightened the mathema¬ tical world; and Dr. Pay ley’s anatomical and physiological dissertations added strength and vigour to his theological studies. Let me not leave out Mr. Mason, who wrote sermons, plays, songs, rebusses, conundrums, and political pamphlets. Most, if not all, of these men have had the amusing part of their conduct arraigned; but as liberality of sentiment cannot every where be found, the best way is to take the world as it goes; and if we cannot obtain approbation from the bulk of mankind, let us be content with what the wise few bestow upon us. OBSERVATION. Upon the merits of this apoiogetical dish, Ignotus asked the opinion of his friend Archaeus; but received for answer, that ‘ it did not come within his province.’ He therefore ventures to recommend it as a whole¬ some dish to all persons who are troubled with cru¬ dities and indigestion. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 219 To make Salt Butter fresh. Put four pounds of salt butter into a churn, with four quarts of new milk, and a small por¬ tion of arnotto. Churn them together, and in about an hour take out the butter and treat it exactly as fresh butter, by washing it in water, and adding the customary quantity of salt. OBSERVATION. This is a singular experiment. The butter gains about three ounces in each pound, and is in every particular equal to fresh butter. Firkin butter may be bought for about eight or nine pence per pound in the month of October, and when churned over again, is worth about eighteen pence. The butter gained pays for the milk. A common earthen churn answers the same purpose as a wooden one, and may be purchased at any pot-shop. 220 FAMILY COOKERY, FINALE. In order to have a table regularly served, two things are materially to be attended to ; of which one be¬ longs to the cook, and the other to the housekeeper. The province of the cook is to dress the meat ac¬ cording to the modern costume, and afterwards to dish it up in an elegant manner. The housekeeper’s province, among other things, is to make out the bill of fare, and afterwards to direct the dishes to be so placed upon the table as to accord with each other, thereby forming a picture that, by pleasing the eye, may whet the appetite. And here I beg leave to observe, that Van Helmont * confined Archaeus to the superintendance of the internal functions of the body; but he did not know, that when he took up his residence in the eye he could view external objects. That discovery was reserved for me, and I confidently assert that at all great tables Archaeus surveys every dish, even before the chap¬ lain has finished his grace. For a proof of this, I See page 108. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 221 appeal to all the thorough-bred epicures in every part of the civilized world. Let us now suppose the dishes to be served up : at this stage, it belongs to the housekeeper to see that the butler has placed them properly upon the table; and here a quick eye to measure distances, and a correct distributive taste, is required towards making the table to represent a well-grouped pic¬ ture. Dr. King, in his poem on the ‘ Art of Cookery,’ in imitation of Horace’s Art of Poetry, and addressed ter Dr. Martin Lister, has, in a humorous manner, shown the necessity of attending to this display. It constitutes an art so worthy of cultivation, that I mean to recommend it to the consideration of the Society of incorporated Artists, under the title of e Crapulary Painting.’ ‘ Ingenious Lister, were a picture drawn With Cynthia’s face, but with a neck like brawn; With wings of turkey, and with feet of calf, Though drawn by Kneller, it would make you laugh. Such is (good sir) the figure of a feast, By some rich farmer’s wife and sister drest: Which were it not for plenty and for steam, Might be resembled to a sick man’s dream, Where all ideas huddling run so fast, That syllabubs come first, and soups the last.’ King on Cookery. 222 FAMILY COOKERY, After returning thanks to the ladies, and to some professional persons, for the liberality of their com¬ munications, I must not forget my obligations to Archaeus, who, in the kindest manner, has expressed his sentiments of almost every dish contained in this collection. IGNOTUS. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 223 ADDRESS. Honi. Soit. Qui. mal. y. Pense. TO THE LADIES WHO HAVE DONE IGNOTUS THE HONOUR TO PERUSE WHAT, WITH THE BEST INTENTION POSSIBLE, HAS BEEN THE AMUSE¬ MENT OF HIS LEISURE HOURS. After providing the necessary materials to be employed in the management of a family, Ignotus would feel himself culpable if he did not endeavour to promote their application by a few words of ad¬ vice. And as the season advances when new year’s gifts are in general acceptable, he begs leave to offer the following to such ladies as may not be too proud to accept of a little good advice from a stranger. The character given of a virtuous woman by the mother of King Lemuel is perhaps the most perfect picture that ever was drawn; and though the age 224 FAMILY COOKERY, in which it was given is widely different from that in which we live, yet every attempt to come near to it will amply reward the fair imitatrix. ‘ The price of a virtuous woman is far above rubies. The heart of her husband doth safely trust in her, so that he shall have no need of spoil. She will do him good and not evil all the days of her life. She seeketh wool and flax, and worketh willingly with her hands. She is like the merchants ships; she bringeth her food from afar. She riseth also while it is yet night, and giveth meat to her house¬ hold, and a portion to her maidens. She considereth a field, and buyeth it: with the fruit of her hands she planteth a vineyard. She girdeth her loins with strength, and strengtheneth her arms. She perceiveth that her merchandize is good: her candle goeth not out by night. She layeth one hand to the spin¬ dle, and the other hand holdeth the distaff. She stretcheth out her hand to the poor; yea, she reach- eth forth her hands to the needy. She is not afraid of the snow for her household; for all her household are clothed with scarlet. She maketh herself cover¬ ings of tapestry; her clothing is silk and purple. Her husband is known in the gates, when he sitteth among the elders of the land. She maketh fine linen, and selleth it; and delivereth girdles unto the merchant. Strength and honour are her clothing ; and she shall rejoice in time to come. She openeth WITH OBSERVATIONS. 225 her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband also, and he praiseth her.’ What a description is here! Can it be attended to without emot;on ? or have modern manners so warped our minds, that the simplicity of ancient virtue, instead of appearing an object of veneration, should look romantic and ridiculous. Say, in good earnest, were the women of those daj^s the less estimable, or the less attractive, that they did not waste their lives in a round of dissipation and folly, but employed themselves in works of ingenuity and usefulness. The women of the first rank, as we are informed by the oldest and best authors, took de¬ light in the occupation of good housewifery to its utmost extent. After looking at the sublime stand¬ ard of female excellence given by the mother of Lemuel, I am aware that any thing I am able to offer on this subject will appear vapid; but since it must be so, let the mortifying sentiment be felt by all, as a just satire on the declension of the age we live in. In truth, when we speak of good housewifery now a days, we must submit to speak in a lower key. What do families suffer daily from the incapacity or inat¬ tention of those mistresses that leave all to house¬ keepers and other servants! How many estates l 5 226 FAMILY COOKERY, might have been saved from ruin by a wiser conduct! I have no hesitation in saying, that no woman ought to think it beneath her to pay an attention to economy. In every station, an economist is a respectable cha¬ racter. To see that time which should be laid out in examining the accounts, regulating the opera¬ tions, and watching over the interests of perhaps a numerous family—to see it lost, worse than lost, in visiting and amusements, is a circumstance truly lamentable. Country gentlemen of moderate for¬ tunes, merchants, and tradesmen, who marry women uninstructed in cookery and the management of a family, are objects of singular compassion ; if indeed they were deceived in an opinion, that the women they have chosen for their partners for life were taught this necessary piece of knowledge. But very seldom, as matters are managed at present, have they such deception to plead for their choice. Is it possible that they can be ignorant in what manner young ladies are educated at our boarding-schools? and do they not see in what manner they are too frequently attended to when their education is finished? The great object is to * bring the young lady out,’ to show the accomplishments obtained at the boarding-school, or, in other words, to exhibit her as a show. When I contemplate one of our fashionable females, ushered into the world in early youth, with morals neglected, and a mind unstored WITH OBSERVATIONS. 227 with principles, by which to guide her steps ; when she appears tricked out in the indecent transpa¬ rencies of modern dress, setting at naught all pre¬ cautions of health, and assuming a boldness and effrontery, totally inconsistent with that modesty, which constitutes the greatest charm of female ex¬ cellence,—I must confess, that the prevailing senti¬ ments of my breast are compassion and sorrow. This uniform, this unreserved and cheap display, disarms beauty of all its fascination: it may attract the most worthless part of our sex ; but the honour¬ able lover, the man of sense and reflection, who looks for the solid and rational delights of domestic life, recoils from the idea of associating his destiny, or of risking his hopes of happiness, with a woman so educated. I most willingly acknowledge, that some young ladies, so fashionably brought up, have, from their own good sense, become excellent managers of their families; but is so great a chance, in an affair of such consequence, to be relied on ? Mothers have much to answer for; and if they but knew the deep and silent reproaches often bestowed upon them, even by their most dutiful daughters, they would pass a lamentable censure upon their own conduct. But to quit this unpleasant subject, let me now de¬ scend to my culinary instructions. In the present age, the order and figure of a 228 FAMILY COOKERY, table is pretty well understood as far as regards splendour and parade. But would it not be worth while to improve upon the art, by learning to connect frugality with elegance; to produce a genteel, or however a good appearance, from things of less ex¬ pense? However difficult, I am sure it is laudable, and deserves to be attempted. This may be depended upon, that most men are highly pleased to observe such economical talents in a young woman; and those talents in one that is married can scarce ever fail to animate the application, excite the generosity, and heighten the confidence of a husband. The contrary discourages and disgusts beyond expres¬ sion; I mean in a discreet and prudent husband. A young woman who has turned her thoughts to those matters in her father’s house, or in any other, where Providence may have disposed of her, and who has been accustomed to acquit herself well in any lesser department committed to her care, will afterwards, when her province is enlarged, slide into the duties of it with readiness and pleasure. The particulars have alread} r passed through her mind. The dif¬ ferent scenes as they rise will not disconcert her. Being acquainted with leading rules, and having had opportunities of applying them, or seeing them applied, her own good sense will dictate the rest, and render that easy and agreeable, which, to a WITH OBSERVATIONS. 229 fine lady, would appear strange, perplexing, and irksome. A celebrated writer, well acquainted with the commercial part of the world, wdien consulted re¬ garding the choice of a wife for the son of a wealthy merchant, made this reply: ‘ This bear always in mind, that if she is not frugal, if she is not what is called a good manager, if she does not prize herself on her knowledge of family-affairs, and laying out her money to the most advantage; let her be ever so sweetly tempered, gracefully made, or elegantly accomplished, she is no wife for a man in trade. All these, otherwise amiable talents, will but open just so many roads to ruin. Remember your mother, who was so exqui¬ sitely versed in this art, that her dress, her table, and every other particular, appeared rather splendid than otherwise. Good housewifery was the founda¬ tion of all.’ To conclude. Domestic management being the basis of female education, the superstructure con¬ sisting of music, dancing, drawing, historical reading, and polite behaviour, must be considered as second¬ ary objects, and made conformable to the station of life in which Providence has placed the fair one. If in an exalted station, and consequently under an obligation to appear much in public, let her be a 230 FAMILY COOKERY, complete mistress of the amusements that she will there find; for be assured, that to play well at the card table is, like a good countenance, a letter of recommendation; while, on the contrary, to display a want of judgment will generally be considered, by a stranger, as a surrender of understanding. IGNOTUS. WITH OBSERVATIONS. 231 ADVERTISEMENT. Ignotus would have had great satisfaction in printing this fifth edition of Culina exactly as the last, but having received numerous and unsolicited favours from most respectable amateurs in cookery, he would have considered himself as ungrateful in the extreme had he rejected such honourable proofs of public approbation. Whoever looks into the “ Forme of Cury,” as compiled about four hundred years ago, by the master-cook of Richard the Second, will be highly disgusted with the dishes there recorded. Much, therefore, is due to those who have brought forward the culinary manners of the present age, in opposition to the nauseous exhi¬ bitions of former times :—For example; Douce Ame. Take gode cowe mylke and do it in a pot. take psel, sawge, ysope, sauay and oop gode herbes. hewe hem and do hem in the mylke and seth hem. take capons half yrosted and smyte hem on pecys 232 FAMILY COOKERY, and do pto pyn and hony clarified, salt it and colo it with safron a sue it forth. TRANSLATION. A delicious Dish. Take good cows milk and put it into a pot. Take parsley, sage, hyssop, savory, and other good herbs. Chop them, and stew them in the milk. Take capons, and after half roasting them, cut them in pieces, and add to them pines, ( unknown, hut supposed to be the stone pine kernels) and honey clarified. Add salt, and after colouring with saffron, serve up. THE END. MEN AND MANNERS. 1. Remove the tax upon sugar, by using only one lump to sweeten your tea, instead of two. 2. Paint the steps of your staircase a stone colour. It will save scouring and soap. 3. When cards have been once or twice played with, send them to the bookbinder to be cut at the edges. 4. Never suffer your rooms to be littered, but keep your tables and chairs in their proper places. 5. Rub your own tables, if you wish to be warm all day. 6. Weigh your tea, sugar, and shambles meat when it comes in. 7. Take the tradesman’s receipt, though you pay ready money. 8. Early rising will add many years to your life. 9. Dine late; it makes the day longer, and saves a supper. 10. Allow no perquisites; it makes your servants thieves. 23 4 MAXIMS. 11. Look now and then into your kitchen and larder, and always know wdiat is for dinner. 12. Be regular in keeping your accounts. It will secure your husband’s esteem. 13. If you have daughters, teach them to knit and spin, and to keep the family accounts. 14. Leave your purse and watch at home when you go to the playhouse, or an auction room. 15. Love your own house better than your neigh¬ bour’s, and love your own wife, if you wish her to love you. 16. Keep no servants that have hangers on. 17 . A gentleman to dress like a groom, is the world turned upside down. 18. Much may be done in a short time. Your barber bestows 150 strokes daily on your beard. 19. Dress modestly, but not fine, unless the world knows you can afford it. 20. Insure your life, and you will sleep the better for it. 21. Never enter an auction room, for there you will be tempted to buy what you do not want. 22. Keep no more servants than you can employ. 23. Never pay a tradesman’s bill till you have cast it up. 24. Pay all your bills at Christmas. 25. If you owe money, be regular in discharging the interest. MAXIMS. 235 26. Be not a collector of books, without determining to read them. 27. Teach your children the multiplication table, and do not permit them to leave off figures till they have passed the rule of three. 28. Do not put too much money in your children’s pockets on going to school. It is sowing the seeds of prodigality. 29. Instead of drinking three glasses of wine after dinner, drink only two; and if you want more, drink a glass of ale. The saving will bring wine back to its old price. 30. If you mean to buy a house, that you intend to alter and improve, be sure to double the tradesman’s estimate. 31. Look out for the deserving poor of your own neighbourhood, and give them what you can spare. 32. Do not let a day pass without thanking God that you was not born a poor labouring man. 33. A good servant considers his master’s interest as his own. 34. Never be without a will, read it over every two years, and make a new one every time you make a purchase of freehold land ; otherwise it will not pass to the uses of your will, but go to your heir at law. 236 MAXIMS. 35. If you lend a man a small sum, be sure to ask him for it before he forgets it. 36. If you are in trade, keep no more houses than you can support; a summer- house, and a winter-house, has forced many a man to a poor-house. 37. When you take a journey in winter, put on two shirts ; you will find them much warmer than an additional waistcoat. 38. A little spittle takes out grease spots from woollen cloth. 39. Idleness travels very leisurely, and poverty soon overtakes her. 40. To be unkind to the brute creation shows your¬ self to be a brute. 41. Do not look down upon your neighbour because he is not so rich as yourself. 42. The man who caricatures you, would murder you if he durst. 43. After we have eat a hearty meal, we think no man is hungry. 44. Nothing is so endearing as being courteous to our inferiors. 45. Conscience is our best friend, but if once of¬ fended is never to be reconciled. 46. If you have a family, and not very affluent, re¬ member that a pin a day is a groat a year. MAXIMS. 237 47. When you take a journey in a stage coach, take with you a pillow. Put your head upon it in a corner of the coach, during the night, and sit upon it in the daytime. 48. An ounce of common sense is worth a pound of learning. 49. A gossip has no home. 50. Give no alms to a man who begs well, but reserve it for the silent beggar. 51. It is a merciless act to confine an unfortunate and industrious man in a jail. Ask yourself if it be not revenge. 52. Whatever your miseries may be, there are others more miserable than yourself. 53. If you keep a drunken servant, insure your house against fire, and yourself against the censures of your neighbours. 54. If you are rich, be liberal in your expenses. 55. A covetous man has generally a spendthrift heir. 56. Never write a letter when in a passion. 57. A gamester is either a fool or a knave. 58. A woman who marries a gamester must never expect to have a good night’s rest. 59. A female gamester generally borrows money on personal security. 60. Choose a wife from a watering place where the company live under one roof. It is as safe a measure as buying a horse upon trial. 238 MAXIMS. 61. A woman who has many lovers generally chooses the worst of them. 62. The extent of a woman's modesty may be esti¬ mated by her dress. 63. Waste not; want not; is a good motto for a kitchen. 64. Let him who has no faults throw the first stone at his neighbour. 65. When you sit down to a luxurious banquet, con¬ sider how many persons there are in the world who would be glad of the crums that fall from your table. 66. A spendthrift and graceless son ought to have no father. 67* A glutton eats as much to-day as if he expected to die to-morrow; and he builds a house as if he expected to live for ever. 68. A deaf man who has a scold for his wife ought to thank God for his misfortune. 69. To quarrel with your relations is treason against nature. 70. A wise man has almost as many prejudices as a fool. 71. Things done in a passion are seldom right. 72. Proverbial wisdom teaches more in one hour than a large yolume of morality in a season. 73. When you plant a wood, you are only paying posterity what you borrowed of your ances¬ tors. MAXIMS. 932 74. Seldom venture on giving advice without being asked. 75. You must not expect others to keep your secret, when you cannot keep it yourself. 76. Allow a man to have wit, and he will allow you to have judgment. 77. When religion is made a science, there is nothing more intricate; when made a duty, there is nothing more easy. 78. They who are the most ready to correct the faults of others are the least disposed to cor¬ rect their own. 79. Do not brave the opinion of the world. You may as well say that you care not for the light of the sun. 80. In England law and reason go hand in hand. In most other countries they hardly know each other. 81. In ancient times the bishop fed his sheep, but now the flock is only kept to be shorn. 82. In the morning, think on what you are to do in the day; and at night, think on what you have done. 83. If you are ever so wise, there are many things of which you are ignorant. 84. If you are disposed to grow fat, keep your eyes open, and your mouth shut. 85. Live to-day as if you were to die to-morrow. 240 MAXIMS. 86. Money got by industry, is Heaven’s gift. 87. Eating is the spur to industry. Could we live without eating, all the world would/be idle. 88. An honest man thinks every body as honest as himself. 89. If you marry ill, don’t repent of it, as repentance will obtain you no forgiveness. 90. If you have lost your love, and think that theie is not such another in the world, consider that there is as good a fish in the sea as ever was taken out of it. 91. Arrogance is a weed that grows on a dunghill. 92. A woman should never play at cards in public till she has learnt in private. 93. A bribe delicately offered, under the specious appearance of a reward, is generally success¬ ful. So the serpent tempted Eve. 94. Ladies who have no pockets make it a good excuse for borrowing trifles of their friends. They never pay, for the same reason that they borrow. 95. A professional man, who allows the world to get before him, no longer belongs to it. 96. Marriage, though commendable, is often the w r orst action of our lives. 97. If you are of an indolent temper, breakfast upon cold pig. 98. To brood over a misfortune is the way to make it longer. MAXIMS. 241 99. A reserved temper checks conviviality, and if yon cannot laugh, you had better stay at home. 100. Time is a ship that neither casts anchor nor waits for passengers. 101. Do not leave that to be done to-morrow, that conveniently may be done to-day. 102. Don’t seem to take pains to get a good name, but live so as to deserve it. 103. Good manners are best learned by keepinggood company. 104. A real gentleman, or lady, is known at first sight. 105. Such is the inequality of the ministers of the Gospel, that the one half drink wine, when the other half can hardly afford small beer. 106. Do not neglect your schoolfellow because he is inferior to yourself; for the same reason your superior may neglect you. 107. Sickness levels pride, and death makes us all equal. 108. If you think of marrying a widow, consider seriously whether you are in possession of as many good qualities as the lady’s former husband ; and if you are a maid, or widow, and think of marrying a widower, you ought, to weigh your own perfections against those of the departed wife. If the parties do this M 242 MAXIMS. without favour or affection to themselves, they may have a reasonable expectation of being happy. 109. Do not waste your love in a long courtship. 110. Learn to dance well. If you have not a head, your heels may make your fortune. / 111. In your passage through life, take truth and sincerity for your companions. If you pre¬ fer dissimulation, you will end your journey in disgrace. 112. Those are the best critics who have the most judgment, and the least ill-nature. 113. If you wish to be comfortable, marry at thirty a woman of twenty-one. You will not then be in danger of your children treading too closely upon your heels. 114. It is the force of education that enables one man to live where another would starve. 115. If you travel into foreign parts, bring back the virtues of other countries, and leave your own follies behind. 116. Set your watch every morning by a good clock’ and you will find a bad watch to go nearly as well as a good one. 117. Those who lead a life of dissipation and plea¬ sure should consider, that the space be¬ tween death and the card-table is hardly discernible. MAXIMS. 243 118. Good breeding requires that you be punctual to your engagements. An inconsiderate blockhead thinks otherwise. 119. There is no vice more easily learnt than drunk¬ enness. 120. Young men who have the same wages as those who have families ought to lay by a little of their weekly earnings. It will teach them to be frugal, and enable them, when they marry, to furnish a house, without running into debt for furniture. 121. Mutual presents cement society. 122. The retrospect of our lives is seldom pleasant, as we are sure to find many follies, and many things done not so well as they ought to have been. 123. If you are so fortunate as to marry a sensible man, be cautious in setting up your own judgment against his, excepting in cases absolutely within your own province, when you will find him disposed to give up to you. 124. Whatever a man does when he is drunk, he is sure to repent of when he is sober. 125. A merchant is like a tree, the value of which cannot be known till it is cut down. 126. A woman has, in general, a disposition towards contradiction, in proportion to her igno- M 2 ranee. 244 MAXIMS. 127- Poverty is a misfortune, and not a crime; and deserves more pity and compassion than it usually meets with. 128. In trivial matters, second thoughts are always best. 129. Warm your pocket handkerchiefs; they will last longer clean, and be much more com¬ fortable in the wear. 130. If you wear a wig, bathe your head every morning in cold water. It preserves the memory, and effectually prevents dotage. 131. Wit is brushwood. Judgment is timber. The first makes the brightest flame, but the other gives the most lasting heat. 132. A judicious bookseller always prevails on some authors to print their own works. 133. A civil man, with Doctor Johnson’s learning', would make an envied bookseller. 134. If you marry in haste, you will be sure to repent at leisure. 135. Do not wish the death of your friend, in hopes of marrying his widow. 136. Mutual forbearance is the best cement between man and wife. 137- Not to overlook workmen, is leaving them your purse open. 138. What maintains one vice would maintain two children. MAXIMS. 245 139. She is not a good housewife who is always buying pennyworths. 1 -10. Try to be good, and you will soon be so. 141. Where passion ends, repentance begins. 142. Be not envious of another man’s worth: The sun does not find fault with the morning star for ushering in the day before him. 143. Of all fools, a travelled fool is the most into¬ lerable. He brings back the follies of other nations, and adds them to his own. 144. He who burns his candle when the sun shines must soon expect to go to bed in the dark. 145. He is in the way to be wise who can bear reproof. 146. When you set about a good work, do not rest till you have completed it. 147- There is more money got by industry than is spent by prodigality. 148. Teach your children early the difference be¬ tween virtue and vice. It will soon become a second nature. 149. Of all our innocent follies, castle-building is the most foolish. 150. Try to deserve a friend, and you will soon get one. 151. The stocks and ducking-stool are excellent preservatives of village harmony. 152. Should you overlive yourself, retrench in time. 246 MAXIMS. It is an act of virtue, of which you need not be ashamed. 153. An artful woman is a saint in the morning, and a glow-worm at night. 154. There is something unmanly in hunting the hare. Fox-hunting is only destroying the destroyer. 155. Do as you wish to be done by. Follow this rule, and you will need no force to keep you honest. 156. A book-worm is a critic without a soul. 157* There would be no end of mourning for our departed friends, if we were not sure of meeting them hereafter. 158. If you do a dishonest act, yourself will be the first accuser. 159. If you are a young man, dispute not with your elders in a large company. 160. A bold deportment in a woman declares her to be half a man. 161. Read a practical sermon every Sunday evening to your family. If it does not make your servants better, it will at least make them attentive. 162. As beauty will fade, a handsome woman should lay in a stock of something to supply its place. 163. A valet to a courtier seldom gets any cast MAXIMS. 247 clothes. His master generally turns his coat. 164. By over-indulging a child, you will at last find him disposed to cry for the moon. 165. A modern lady in winter lives all the morning in Lapland, and spends her evenings on the banks of the Ganges. Good news for the faculty. 166 . When your servants find out that you are igno¬ rant of their duty, you may be assured that the family business will be ill done. 167- To be able to carve well, is a useful and elegant accomplishment. It is an artless recom¬ mendation to a man who is looking out for a wife. 168. Physic is represented by a serpent. If it can’t cure you, it will be sure to bite you. 169. When you go from a family after a long visit, do not leave half your things behind you. 170. If you are an author, keep a slate and pencil by your bed-side, to note a good thought, that it may not fly away before you get up. 171. Whatever your situation in life may be, lay down your plan of conduct for the day. The half hours will smoothly glide on, without crossing or jostling each other. 172. When fruit is offered, always take what is next to you. 248 MAXIMS. 173- We are all indebted for our consequence to the tailor, the shoemaker, the hosier, the jeweller, the milliner, the mantua-maker, and hair-dresser. 174. Whatever your pretensions may be, avoid being the principal speaker in a large company. 175. Keep your nails clean. It is the outward sign of a gentleman, or a sloven. 176. Do not suffer tradesmen to be long in waiting, and do not allow them to leave their goods with your servants, to be looked at when you have leisure. 177. If you have more money than you have an im¬ mediate occasion for, lodge it with- your banker: a house-breaker may break into your house, y but he will then find little to carry away. 178. To swear falsely in a court of judicature is selling your soul to the devil. 179. An ignorant boaster attempts to bully you into the belief that he is a sensible man. 180. It is ruinous for a shopkeeper to suspect a thief, without proving it. 181. It is much better to have a bad man for your enemy than for your friend. 182. Ostentation is often the handmaid of charity. 183. To correct a child who has a capacity and will not exert it, may be a justifiable measure; MAXIMS. 249 but to bestow the same correction upon a child of slow parts, is barbarous brutality. A schoolmaster who does not make this distinction should be sent to drive a waggon. 184. Our wishes make every thing probable that we wish for. 185. Modesty in a young man, with a becoming as¬ surance, is the ground-work of an accom¬ plished gentleman. 186. Do not ridicule personal deformities. 187- Good breeding will make you civil to a stranger, but it will not allow you to be familiar. 18S. Let your voice in conversation be neither too high nor too low. The first is insolent and overbearing, and the other gives the com¬ pany pain to attend to you. 189. In a numerous company avoid a long argu¬ ment. 190. Do not blame a man for hard drinking, if he belongs to a thirsty family. 191. A Roman emperor did not enjoy the luxuries of an English washerwoman. She break¬ fasts upon tea from the East Indies, and upon sugar from the West. 192. A glutton is emphatically said to dig his grave with his teeth. 193. Leap-frog is the emblem of human life. 19L A lady who has some reason to be offended M 5 250 MAXIMS. with the perfidy of her lover, should be warned against throwing herself into the arms of the first man who behaves civilly to her. 195. As the human face consists only of seven dis¬ tinguished features, the forehead, the eye¬ brows, the eyes, the nose, the lips, the cheeks, and chin, is it not incomprehensible that Providence should make such variations on these seven parts, that out of the whole inhabitants of the world, there should not be two faces exactly alike ? 196. When you enter into the world, endeavour to get a genteel deportment at table. Observe a well bred man, and mark his behaviour. Take him for a copy, and regulate your manners by his. Do not stick out your elbows to the annoyance of your neighbour, or hold your knife and fork upright, as if you were in hostility with the company. When you enter the drawing-room, before going in to dinner, do it gracefully; and after paying your compliments to the lady and gentleman of the house, bow respect¬ fully to the company; then take your place at the table according to your rank in life. Habit, and good company, will do the rest. 197. The universe is a wise man’s library. MAXIMS. 251 198. Learning is the only sure guide to honour and preferment. 199. Whoever wishes to excel in arts must excel in industry. 200. Rise from table with an appetite, and you will not be in danger of sitting down without one. 201. Anger may continue with you for an hour, but it ought not to repose with you for a night. 202. He who accustoms himself to buy superfluities, may, ere long, be obliged to sell his neces¬ saries. 203. He who goes to bed in anger has the devil for his bedfellow. 204. Envy is like a sore eye that cannot bear a bright object. 205. Our passions are a great deal older than our reason; they come into the world with us, but reason follows a long time after. 206. He who is always his own counsellor will often have a fool for his client. 207. Nature has often made a fool, but a coxcomb is of a man’s own making. 208. A good office done harshly is a stony piece of bread. 209. A horse is an animal above flattery, as he will as soon throw an emperor as a groom. 210. If you have as many diseases as are contained 252 MAXIMS* in a bill of mortality, temperance will cure them all. 211. Affectation in a woman is a more terrible enemy to a fine face than the small-pox. 212. He who gets a good husband for his daughter, gains a son; and who gets a bad one, loses a daughter. 213. He who would have his business well done, must either do it himself, or see it done. 214. Those who put off repentance till another day r have a day more to repent of, and a day less to repent in. 215. An obedient wife commands her husband. 216. He that finds a thing and does not restore it, steals it. 217 * If you would know the value of a guinea, try to borrow one of a stranger. 218. Make choice of your wife by your ears, and not by your eyes. 219. He that hinders not a mischief when it is in his power, is guilty of it. 220. Religion is the best armour, but the worst cloak. 221. If you tell your secrets to your servant, he will soon become your master. 222. A chancery suit is the least expensive suit that a man can w’ear, as it is sure to last him his whole lifetime. MAXIMS. 253 223. Make your will when you are well, and your last moments will suffer no disturbance. 224-. All our desires are apt to wander into an im¬ proper course, and it is our duty to set them right. 225. A handsome present turns away wrath. 22 6 . Our limited faculties will not allow us to com¬ prehend eternity. 227. Metaphysics have made many a man worse, but never made one better. 22S. A man who cannot bear slight misfortunes is in danger of becoming mad, when he meets with heavy ones. 229. Without frugality few would be rich, and with it few would be poor. 230. Gold can furnish every earthly comfort, a con¬ tented mind excepted. 231. From the known laws of chance, some men must be more fortunate than others. 232. A man possessed of a serene mind is the hap¬ piest of all God’s creation. 233. The same thing has often two different names. A successful insurrection is called a revo¬ lution ; an unsuccessful one is named a rebellion. 234. Animals, directed by instinct, never err. Man, guided by reason, often does. 254 MAXIMS. 235. Things to come, and things past, are, in the eye of God, the same. 2 36 . The greatest comfort of man is an hereafter. It guides him cheerly through a turbulent world. 237- Gossiping and lying are twin sisters. 238. To be ever of the same opinion with the last man you converse with, shows you to be either a fool or a knave. 239. Guard yourself against too much prosperity 240. Though his own cup may not be filled, a good man rejoices to see his neighbour’s run over. 241. A liar is the dregs of mankind. 242. The “ Address to Ladies” in Culina is the most faithful glass they can look into. 243. A man of profound reading, with a perfect knowledge of the world, cannot fail of being a good critic. 244. A parrot and a prattling woman give utterance to words that neither of them understand. 245. Dangers that are often felt become familiar. Who, otherwise, would continue a seafar¬ ing life, or take up his abode on the side of a burning mountain ? 246. A quack robs with one hand, and kills with the other. 247- If a young woman is worth having for a wife, maxims. 2 55 some man that is worth having for a husband will find her out. 248. A speculative Christian is not half so good as a practical one. 249. What are our reflections, when we see a man, who having finished his career in the army, is volunteering it in the church !!! 250. Reading and writing have saved more persons from the gallows than forgery has brought to it. 251. A professional man who loses a friend from caprice is much better without him. 252. If you are in trade, remember that a guinea wasted is a guinea lost. 253. A man who is officious to serve you at first sight should be regarded with caution. 254. A real gentleman never sings, but to his children. 255. If you tell a lie, and the truth be doubted, you must tell another to keep it in counte¬ nance. 256. If you are wealthy, provide handsomely for your own children; if you have none, give your superfluities to the poor. 257. False weights and measures are guarded against by law; but against overreaching a man in worldly concerns there is no law but the law of conscience. 256 MAXIMS. 258. It is a great proof of good breeding to be able to converse well. 259. Families that use brown bread will find much economy in having it cut with a slicing knife. This instrument cuts bread without waste, and does the business with ease and expe¬ dition. 260. The church is God’s house ; though the chan¬ cellor, sometimes, puts in a bad tenant. 261. If you have a good law cause, refer it: if a bad one, try it. 262. God, from his omniscience, sees every thing that is to happen, and, if supremely bad, he can at his pleasure put the evil aside. 263. Teach a man to be industrious, and you will soon make him rich. 264. Avoid the tavern and the ale-house. Money spent there never returns. 265. Of all men, a lounger is least to be envied. His mind has lost all activity, and he is never happy but when he goes to bed. 266. Take away your expensive follies, and you will have little occasion to complain of hard times. 267. When you go to rest, commit yourself to the care and protection of God, and let your last words of recollection be a fervent eja¬ culation to the Almighty. INDEX A. Address to the Ladies, 223— 230. Advertisement, 231. Anchovy Sauce, 37. Toast, 107. Apple Pie, French, 162. Archaeus, account of, 108. Dialogue between him and Dr. Franklin, 110 — 117. B. Balnamoon Skink, 70. Barley Broth, Scotch, 64. Beef, Family, to pickle, 180. Brisket of, stewed, sa¬ voury, 155. Brisket of, stewed sim¬ ply, 155. Collops, 198. Gravy, 3. Potted, 81, 94. Rolled, 180. Savoury Hash of, 118, 131. Trembling, 199. Welsh, 203. BeefSteak, to dress, 12. to broil, 14. to fry, 26. Beef steak, to dress hastily in a stewpan, 27. to stew, 48, 49. to stew with cucumbers, 53. to dress on the Moors, 69. Pie, 152. Savoury stewed, 15 Beef Stock for Soups, 1. Beet Root, to stew, 159. Brado Fogado, or stewed Spin- age, 142. Bread for Toast and Butter, 97. Broth, Balnamoon Skink, 70. good, 117. Scotch, 74. Scotch Barley, 64. Sheep’s Head, 64. Veal, 179. Brown colouring for made Dishes, 213. Burdwan, an Indian, 156. an English, 157. Buterham, to prepare, 147. Butter, to melt, 1. burnt, 39. Salt, to make fresh, 219. c. Cabbage, red, to stew, 204. 258 INDEX. Cabeached Cod, 28. Calf’s Head, to dress, 75. to dress, turtle fashion, 208. Carp, to ragoo, 20. to roast, 50. Calf’s Pluck, to dress, 210. Carolina Pease Soup, 68. Carp, to stew, 37, 72. Carrot Soup, 39, 42. Cheese, Cream, 55. Stilton, to make, 52. Cheshire Sandwich, 177. Chickens, Friars’, 54. Dunelm of, 63. Chocolate Cream, in paste, 91. Cod, cabeached, 28. dried, to dress, 53. to stew, 25, 95. to stew after the Dutch manner, 194. Cpllops, Veal, white, 174. brown, 175. Beef, 198. Colouring, for Sauces, 4. brown, for made dishes, 213 . Common Sense, a dish so called, 216—218. Consumptive Persons, a good mess for, 51. Crabs, to butter, 84. Dunelm of, 185. Cream Cheese, 85, 188. a rich one, 145. Chocolate, in paste, 91. Crimping Fish, 90. Cucumber, to stew, 45. Vinegar, 1 52. Cullis, or strong Gravy, 3. Curds and Whey, Gallina, 89. Curry, fried, 59- dry, or without gravy, 140. wet, or with gravy, 141. Curry, green, 144. mild, 213. Curry Powder, to prepare, 140. a cheap one, 145. D. Dish, a delicious, 232. Douce Ame, 231. Duck, to stew, 181. stewed with Cabbage, 32. (tame) stewed with Green Pease, 76, 97. Dunelm of Chickens, 63. Crab, 185 Mutton, 80 Soup, 128. Dutch Sour Sauce for Fish, 10. Sauce for Fish, simple, 159. E. Eborized Woodcocks, 96. Eggs, Observations on, 148. to preserve, for eating in the Shell, 206. F. Fasting Day’s Dish, 164. Fish, to crimp, 91. Pie, 77. Dutch Sour Sauce for, 10 . good Sauce for, 25, 33, 41,159. Sauce to keep a year, 47. cheap Sauce for, 81. Soup, 83, 102. Fowl, to stew in rice, 35. cold, Sauce for, 62. to roast with chestnuts, 105. Franklin (Dr.) and Archaeus, dialogue between, 110—117. INDEX. 259 Friars’ Chickens, 54. Fricandeau of Veal, 44, 45,214. G. Gallina Curds and Whey, 89. Giblet Soup, 14b’, 189. Goose, roasted, Sauce for, 55. Granada, 11. Gravy, for keeping, 22. Beef, 3. strong, called Cullis, 3. for white dishes, 8. brown, 8. S up, 14. Green Pease Soup, 9. without Meat, 118, 126, 149. stewed with Lettuce and Onion, 78, 98. with Rice, 215. Succedaneum for, in winter, 190. H. Haddocks, stewed, 165. to dry, 200. Haggis, 65. Ham, to boil, 11, 172, 211. Hare, to stew, 98, 99. mock, 153. Hare Soup, 9, 43, 51, 73, l:*S. simple, 23. Hash, savoury, of Mutton or Beef, 118, 131. Holibut, head of, to stew, 163. to dress in the manner of Scotch collops, 164. I. Jelly, savoury, 95. K. Koumiss, to prepare, 202. L Lamb Chops, to fry, 195. Lampreys, to stew, 170. Larks, to roa-t, 207. Loaves, Westphalia, I 86. Lobster Pie, 150, 151. Lobster S >up, 103. Lobsters, to stew, 21. to dress in the shell, 119 . to stew, (mild) 185. to stew, (savoury) 186. M. Macaroni, 6, 13,38, 50, 78. Pie, 36. Soup, 34. Made Dishes, brown colouring for, 213. Maigre Soup, 42, 101, 104, 125. Malt Wine, 21, 29. Marrow -Bones, to dress, 6. Maxims, various, 233—256. Meagre Soup, 7. Mess, 167. Meat, cold, Sauce for, 55. Men and Manners, Maxims on, 233—256. Meringues, to prepare, 171. Mess for weak or consumptive persons, 51. for a fasting-day, 164. Mock Hare, 153. Mock Turtle, 135, 143. Mock Turtle Soup, 46, 91, 132, 137, 192—194. Moor Game, Sauce for, 147. Mutton Chops, to dress, 87- INDEX 260 Mutton, Dunelm of, 80. Hash of, savoury, 11*8, 131. Loin of, stewed, 35. Rumps, 191. Venison, 29. O. Olio, a Spanish, 209. Omelette, excellent, 183. French, 132. of Oysters, 5 7. Potatoe, 62. savoury, 16, 106, 146, 170! simple, 56, 61. Onion Sauce, nice, 160. Onion Soup, maigre, 125. Oyster Sausages, 32. Omelette, 57. Pie, with Sweetbreads, 205. Sauce, 1 72. Soups, 178. P. Partridge, cold, Sauce for, 55, 147. to stew, 100. to boil, 173. Soup, 33, 120, 169. Pease, to stew, 88. to stew mild, 176. to stew savoury, 176, 197. to stew with Onion and Lettuce, 78, 98. Pease Pudding, 79. (See also Green Pease.) Tease Soup, Green, 9, White, 18. Carolina, 68. Maigre, 101, 104, 166. Pease Soup, Green, without Meat, 118, 126, 149. with Lettuce and Onion, 78, 98. Perigord Pie. 16. Pheasant (a cock) to dress, 203. Pickle for the preservation of Pork, Tongues, &c. 19. Pie, Beef Steak, 1 52. Fish, 77, 190 Lobster, 150, 151. Macaroni, 36. Perigord, 160. Sweetbread, 72. Pillaw, baked, 143. Pluck, a Calf’s, to dress, 210. Poivrade Sauce, 177. Pork, Pickle for preserving, 19. Steaks, to stew, 87. Potatoes, Omelette of, 62. Potted Beef, 84, 94. Pudding, French Apple, 162. Pease, 79. R. Ragoo or Ragout of Calf’s Head, 20. of Oysters, 182, Red Cabbages, to stew, 204. Rice, to boil, 58, 139. Russian Sauce, 31. S.. Salad Sauce, 57. Winter, 58. Sandwich, to prepare, 168. a Cheshire, 177. a Dutch, 148. Shrimp, 195. Sauce, colouring for, 4. Dutch, a sour one, for Fish, 10, 159. cheap, for Fish, 81. INDEX 261 Sauce, good, for Fish, 25, 33, 41. to keep a Year, 47. Russian, 31. savoury for a roasted Goose 55. for cold Partridge, or cold Meat of any kind, 55. for Salads, 57 . for cold Fowl, Veal, &c. 62 . Tomato, 133. Mock Tnmata, 194. for cold Partridge, or Moor Game, 147. Poivrade, 177. Sausages, without Skins, 191. Oyster, 3?. solid, 184. Scotch Broth, 74. Scotch Barley Broth, 64. Sheep’s Head Broth, 64. Shoulder of Veal, savoury, 82. Shrimp Sandwich, 195. Skate, teased, 135. Skink, Balnamoon, 70 . Souchy, Water, 40. Soup, Beef Stock for, 1. Brown Stock for, 4. Veal Stock for, 2. Carolina Pease, 68. Carrot, 39, 42. cheap one, 26. early Spring, 60. Fish, 83, 102. French, 123. Giblet, 5, 189. Gravy, 14, 16. Green Pease, 9. Green Pease, without Meat, 118, 126, 149. Green Pease, with Rice, 215. Hare, 9, 43,73, 138. Soup, Hare, simple, 23. Lobster. 103. Macaroni, 34. Meagre, or Maigre, 7 , 42, 101. Mock Turtle, 46, 91, 132, 137, 192—194. Oyster, 178. Partridge. 33, 120, 169. Pease, savoury, 197. Pease, maigre, 101,104, 166. simple, 40. Sublingual, 121, 122. Veal, 129. Vegetable, 130. Vegetable with Meat, 20, 22, 153. White, 117, 120,124, 129. White, With Vermicelli, 69. White Dunelm, 128. White Pease, 18. White Vermicelli, 174. Wholesome, 211. Spinage, to dress, 196. stewed, 14 2. and Cream, 182. Spring Soup, early, 60. Stew of Beef, savoury, 150. Brisket of Beef, sa¬ voury, 151. Brisket of Beef, stewed simply, 155. Beef Steaks, 48, 49, 153. Beet-root, 159. Carp, 35, 72. Cod, 25, 95. Cod’s Head and Shoul¬ ders, 166. Duck, 181. Duck, with Cabbage, 32. Duck, with green Pease, 76, 97 INDEX. 262 Stew of Fowl, in Rice, 31. Green Pease, with Let¬ tuce and Onion, 78. Haddocks, 1 65. Holibut’s Head, 163. Lampreys, 170. Lobsters, mild, 1 85. Lobsters, savoury, 186* Mutton, 31. Mutton, Loin of, 35. Pease, 87, 91. Pease, mild, 176. Pease, savoury, 176. Pease, with Onion and Lettuce, 78. Pork Steaks, 87". Red Cabbages, 204. Spinage, 142. a savoury one, 158. Tench, 35, 72, 199. Stilton Cheese, to make, 52. Sublingual Soup, 121, 122. Sweetbread Pie, 72. T. Tench, to stew, 37, 72, 199. Tomata Sauce, 133, 187. mock, 194. Tomatas, to pot, 134. Tongues, Pickle for preserving, 19. Trembling Beef, 199. Turtle Soup, mock, 46, 91,132, 137, 192—194. Turtle Soup, English, 131. Fish, 88. Turtle, Mock, 135, 143. V. Veal Broth, 179. cold, Sauce for, 62. Collops, brown, 175. Collops, white, 174. Fricandeau of, 44, 45. savoury Shoulder of, 82. Soup, 129. Stock, for soups, 2. Vegetable Soup, with Meat, 20, 22, 153. without Meat, 130. Venison Mutton, 29. Vermicelli Soup, white, 174. Vinegar, an excellent, 48. W. Water Souchy, 40. Weak Persons, a good Mess for, 51. Welsh Beef, 203. Westphalia Loaves, 186. White Dishes, Gravy for, 8. Soup, 17,120, 124,129. Vermicelli Soup, 174. Wine, Malt, 24. Woodcocks, eborised, 96. LONDON: PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WH1TEFRIAftS. >.X ■ *- . • L ■ .V* ? , :0f j X?; -: » - ■- ■ ,u ;. 4 ; ... ' ‘ — - . ' ; ' \ ' : . •'-• v_:. r - 4 -y^*. -.X •. %£■ .:V; :: -. -?