Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/gastronomicregenOOsoye_O V°J THE (Sastronomtc Regenerator: A SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OF COOKERY, WITH NEARLY TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE, ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED. BY MONSIEUR A. SOYER, OF THE REFORM CLUB. LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT: AND SOLD BY JOHN OLE IYI ER, PALL-MALL. 1846. La decouverte d’un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genr liumain que la decouverte d’une etoile.— Brillat-Savarin. C AND ,1 ADLAFID, P1UNTEKS, BARTHOLOMEW CLOSE. TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE. Your Royal Highness, The gracious condescension which permits of the dedi¬ cation of this Work to your Royal Highness, adds another to the many claims upon my devotedness and my gratitude. I have the high honour to be Your Royal Highness 5 Most obedient and humble Servant, ALEXIS SOYER. Barff Tucker, del. J. Walmsley, Sculp. THE FOLLOWING DISTINGUISHED PERSONS HAVE HONORED THE AUTHOR WITH THEIR APPROBATION, AND THIS VOLUME, WITH THE KITCHEN PLAN OF THE REFORM CLUB, WERE COMMENCED UNDER THEIR PATRONAGE. H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge. Ernest reigning Duke of Saxe-Cobourg. H. R. H. the Duke of Sussex. H. R. H. the Hereditary Prince of Saxe- Cobourg and Gotha. H. R. H. the Prince of Prussia. Archduke Frederic of Austria. Prince Biron de Courlande. Princess Clementine of France. The Duke of Leinster. The Duke of Bedford. The Duchess of Sutherland. La Duchesse d’Escars. La Duchesse de Lorges. La Duchesse de Vahny. The Countess of Essex. The Countess of Carlisle. , The Dowager Marchioness of Downshire. The Countess of Clare. The Countess of Craven. The Baroness de Ludwigsdorff (Sweden.) Lady Eliza Philipps. Lady Flower. Lady Throgmorton. Lady Elibank. The Marquis of Ailsa. The Marquis of Normanby. The Marquis of Lansdowne. The Marquis of Clanricarde. The Marquis of Titchfield. The Marquis of Headfort. The Marquis of Salisbury. Marquieza das Minas. Marquieza das Furjel. The Earl Fortescue. The Earl of Pembroke. The Earl of Chesterfield. The Earl of Devon. The Ear! of Yarborough. The Earl of Charlemont. The Count Hatzfellt (Prussia). Count Woronzow. Coimtess Woronzow. The Earl Grosvenor. The Earl of Clarendon. The Earl of Sefton. Le Baron de Molartie (great Echanson to the King of Hanover). Le Baron Adolphe de Rothschild. La Baronne de Rothschild. La Baronne de Weiber (Baden). Le Comte de Rancher (France). Le Comte de Pradel (France). Lord Ebrington. Lord Dinorben. Lord Maidstone. Lord Marcus Hill, M.P. Le Vicomte de Noailles (France). Viscount Duncannon. Lord James Stuart. Lord Mostyn. Lord Jermyn. Lord Say and Sele. Lord Dudley Coutts Stuart. Lord Panmure. Lord F. Gordon. Lord Hastings. Lord Scarborough. Lord Nugent. Lord Lovat. Lord Templetown. Lord Clement. Lord Augustus Fitzclarence. Lord Vivian. Sir George Chetwynd. Sir Benjamin Hall, M.P. Sir Henry Webb. Sir Andrew Leith Hay, M.P. Sir D. Le Marchant. Sir John Guest, M.P. Sir Hesketh Fleetwood, M.P. Sir James Duke, M.P. Sir John Easthope, M.P. Sir R. Musgrave. Le Chevalier A. Mongaldi (Venice). Sir John M‘Neil. VI LIST OF PATRONS. Sir Henry Pottinger. The Honorable Pox Maule, M.P. The Honorable H. E. Westenra. The Honorable J. O. Murray. Lieutenant-Colonel Westenra. Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon. Major-General Evans. Admiral Dundas, M.P. General Sir Alexander Duff, Bart. General Johnson. Le General Baron de Parincourt (Prance). Colonel Sir William Eobert Clayton. Colonel White. Colonel Beckwith. Major Eichardson. Captain Noble Cesar de Ladacio (Naples). Lieut.-Gen. Baron de Warlington (Ba¬ varia). CapitainedeVaisseauxP. Gautier (Prance). Ad m iral Codrington. El Gen. Martin Joie de Triarte (Spain). Captain Eobert Scherger (Cobourg). The Honorable General Mead. The Honorable Captain Vivian, M.P. Daniel O’Connell, Esq., M.P. Maurice O’Connell, Esq., M.P. John O’Connell, Esq., M.P. George Duncan, Esq., M.P. Edward Ellice, Esq., M.P. Eobert Archbold, Esq., M.P. The Eev. Charles Tumor, D.D. Alston, Eowland, Esq. Basevi, George, Esq. Bryane, W. C. (America), Esq. Bavin, Christopher, Esq. j Boyd, W. Esq. Buckland, James, Esq. Hawes, B. Esq. Dusillion, Architect, Paris, Esq. Barry. Charles, Esq. Bouverie, Edward Pleydell, Esq. Collins, William, M.D. Esq. Clumy, Thomas, Esq. Clayton, John Lloyd, Esq. Diwett, Thomas, Esq. Dardel, Monsieur de. Dann, Henry, Esq. Paraday, Professor. Gully, John, Esq. Gunston, John, Esq. Gordon, Eobert, Esq. Hoare, Charles, Esq. Harmer, James, Esq. Plope —, Esq. Hovenden, J E. Esq. Humphrey, John, Alderman, M.P. Esq. Melik, A. (Turkey), Esq. Montefiore, N. Esq. Murphy, Mr. Sergeant. Oliviera, Benjamin, Esq. O’Brien, Stafford, Esq. Perkins, Prederic, Esq. Philips, Mark, M.P. Esq. Prescott, H. Esq. Eushton, E. A. Esq. Strutt, Edward, M.P. Esq. Sampayo, O. H. Esq. P. A. Sarg, Esq. Wemyss, Captain, Esq. - » Wolfe, J. L. Esq. PREFACE. At the request of several persons of distinction, who have visited the Reform Club, particularly the ladies, to whom I have always made it a rule never to refuse anything in my power, for indeed it must have been the fair sex who have had the majority in this domestic argument to gain this gastronomical election,—Why do you not write and publish a Cookery-book ? was a question continually put to me. For a considerable time this scientific word caused a a thrill of horror to pervade my frame, and brought back to my mind that one day, being in a most superb library in the midst of a splendid baronial hall, by chance I met with one of Milton’s allegorical works, the profound ideas of Locke, and several chefs d’oeuvre of one of the noblest champions of literature, Shakspeare; when all at once my attention was attracted by the nineteenth edition of a voluminous work such an immense success of publication caused me to say, “ Oh! you celebrated man, posterity counts every horn* of fame upon your regretted ashes !” Opening this work with intense curiosity, to my great disappoint¬ ment what did I see,—a receipt for Ox-tail Soup ! The terrifying effect produced upon me by this succulent Vlll PREFACE. volume made me determine that, my few ideas, whether culinary or domestic, should never encumber a sanctuary which should be entirely devoted to works worthy of a place in the Temple of the Muses. But you must acknowledge, respected readers, how changeable and uncertain are our feeble ideas through life; to keep the promise above mentioned, I have been drawn into a thousand gastronomic reflections, which have involved me in the necessity of deviating entirely from my former opinion, and have induced me to bring before the public the present volume, under the title of “ The Gastronomic Regenerator,” throughout which I have closely followed the plain rules of simplicity, so that every receipt can not only clearly be understood, but easily executed. I now sincerely hope, Ladies, that I have not only kept my promise, but to your satisfaction paid tribute to your wishes. You have not forgotten, dear reader, the effect that mon¬ strous volume, the said nineteenth edition, produced upon me, therefore I now sincerely beg of you to put my book in a place suited to its little merit, and not with Milton’s sublime Paradise, for there it certainly would be doubly lost. IMPORTANT. DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPOSITION OF THIS WORK. To sustain and deserve the title of “ Gastronomic Regenerator,” nothing but an entire change from the system of any other publication on the art of cookery would be admissible, it is now in the hands of my readers to judge for themselves, and to stamp its character according to its merits, either as an original, or a copy; to avoid the last, how¬ ever, I have closely studied to introduce the greatest novelty in every department, and have entirely omitted all unnecessary confusion, which, in many previous works, have rendered them unintelligible to the un¬ initiated, and almost impracticable to the initiated; however, many old and useful receipts, too good to be omitted, will be found much sim¬ plified—to reduce them to a practical point. I have also minutely studied the disposing and arranging of the building of all sized kitchens, from the one of the Reform Club and the Kitchen of the Wealthy to the humble one of the cottage, which cannot fail to prove useful when closely followed, as six years of experience in the kitchen of the Reform Club * has fully proved to me that those useful departments have not only previously been much neglected, but in many instances at a very great expense still worse arranged for want of practical knowledge, and considering that the pleasures of the table are an every day enjoyment which reflects good and evil on all classes, my readers I am sure will agree with me that the proper disposing of such an important department deserves some little attention, for food uncomfortably prepared is almost always unsightly, unwholesome, and consequently indigestible, not being cleanly prepared. I have likewise omitted in this work the placing of a long series of bills of fare, which has been done in every previous publication, although they might have proved useful in some few circumstances, they are seldom referred to, and often create confusion in the composition of * A very minute description and drawings of the kitchen and apparatus will be found at the end of the receipts devoted to the Kitchen of the Wealthy. b X DESCRIPTION OP THE WORK. a dinner by the difficulty of procuring perhaps the identical comesti¬ bles required in the receipts which the bills of fare refer to ; and more I would venture to say, that in no circumstances have those bills of fare been correctly followed; the only three I have introduced being one to arrange my pagodatique service to grace the table of the wealthy, the other the Lucullusian dinner, and the dinner of my Table at Home, which will give a general idea of the manner in which I usually compose my bills of fare, which of course may be increased or decreased to any size. To avoid the old-fashioned method of giving ten or twelve for every season in the year, I have made the whole contents of my book one regular bill of fare, which will enable the most inexperienced cook, or young lady just commencing housekeeping, to compose a recherche or economical bill of fare at will, being so distributed, that after a short series of sauces the bill of fare commences, being first the soups, then the fish then the hors-d’oeuvres, or flying dishes, to be handed round the table during the time the removes and entrees are placing upon it; this is the usual manner I serve a dinner, which cannot fail to be very hot: and to prevent confusion, which too often occurs, I place a number on a piece of paper between the cover and the dish, with a corresponding number to the name of the dish upon the bill of fare, which is then forwarded to the steward, who by this means not only understands the better placing it upon the table, but is able to answer to any questions respecting the dinner, thus saving time and confusion; and, above all, the dinner will be very hot and inviting, which would not be the case in the regular system of laying out the whole of the first course first upon the kitchen table, having to uncover every dish unnecessarily, then upon another table in a room adjoining the dining-room, and third and last upon the dining-table, adding to which the chance of confusion and innumerable delays, in which your dinner is getting quite cold. In a plate service of sixteen entrees, which I was directed by the committee of the Reform Club to order, I intro¬ duced silver and conceal sand in the heaters, thus by placing them two hours in the hot closet previous to serving, they will retain their heat nearly a couple of hours longer upon the table, but for further details see pagodatique dish at the end of the book; but to return to the ar¬ rangement of my book, after the hors-d’oeuvres come the removes, flancs, entrees, in succession in the first course, and for the second, the roasts, savoury dishes, vegetables, entremets, and removes second course; thus my readers will have but to turn from one series to another in succession to arrange their bills of fare. For any description of plain joints frequently required in the first DESCRIPTION OF THE WORK. XI course, they will be found at the commencement of the series entitled my Kitchen at Home. For a public breakfast, luncheon, or suppers, where everything is partly cold, the series of savoury dishes in the second course will be found to facilitate and very much abbreviate the composition of the bill of fare for either of the above purposes. In the department entitled my Kitchen at Home will be found the same arrangements, and the repetition of many dishes from the Kitchen of the Wealthy, but so much simplified that the industrious classes of society may partake freely of them at a very moderate expense. I shall also remark that my motive in not making a translation to my index, but merely naming at the commencement of each series the different comestibles, is to avoid the following ridiculous occurrence, that is, the making of bills of fare in English from such curious trans¬ lation, not one of which have I seen deserving publication, being com¬ posed of comic French trivialite. As it is not the name that makes the dish, I have only explained the names of the different articles by way of distinction ; I have also mixed several headings in French and English, to instruct by degrees the un¬ initiated in the art of making a correct bill of fare; I have also, in every place where the heading is in French, endeavoured to place the name of the comestible in the first fine of the receipt. The reference by numbers will be found unavoidably repeated in many instances, especially those referring to stocks, sauces, pastes, or any of those articles which are the foundations of any others, which will be easily remembered after a few weeks’ practice without having recourse to the index. My readers will probably also feel interested in knowing that, although for some time it has been my intention to write a work upon gastronomy, the laborious and difficult duties which I had to fulfil at the Reform Club, added to the terrific effect which has produced upon me the 19th edition of that monstrous volume mentioned in the preface, have often been the cause of my giving up such an idea, and having destroyed my old manuscripts, it is only within the last ten months that I in reality commenced afresh this work, in which lapse of time I had to furnish 25,000 dinners for the gentlemen of the Reform Club, and 38 dinner parties of importance, comprising above 70,000 dishes, and to provide daily for 60 servants of the establishment, independent of about 15,000 visitors which have seen the kitchen department in that lapse of time. XU DESCRIPTION OE THE WORE. Although I am entirely satisfied with the composition, distribution, and arrangement of my book, should some few little mistakes be discovered they will be the more excusable under those circum¬ stances, as in many instances I was unable to devote that tedious time required for correction ; and, although I have taken all pos¬ sible care to prescribe, by weight and measure, the exact quantity of ingredients used in the following receipts for the seasoning and preparing of all kinds of comestibles, I must observe that the ingre¬ dients are not all either of the same size or quality ; for instance, some eggs are much larger than others, some pepper stronger, salt salter, and even some sugar sweeter. In vegetables, again, there is a con¬ siderable difference in point of size and quality ; fruit is subject to the same variation, and, in fact, all description of food is subject to a similar fluctuation. I am far, however, from taking these disproportions for excuses, but feel satisfied if the medium of the specified ingredients be used, and the receipts in other respects closely followed, nothing can hinder success. SOYER’S NEW MODE OF CARVING, &c. &c. &c. You are all aware, honorable readers, of the continual tribulation in carving at table, for appetites more or less colossal, and when all eyes are fixed upon you with anxious avidity. Very few persons are per¬ fect in this useful art, which requires not only grace, but a great deal of skill. Others become very nervous ; many complain of the knife, which has not the least objection to be found fault with ; or else they say, this capon, pheasant, or poularde is not young, and consequently not of the best quality. You may sometimes be right, but it certainly often happens that the greatest gourmet is the worst carver, and com¬ plains sadly during that very long process, saying to himself, “ I am last to be served; my dinner will be cold.” Reproaches of this kind are daily addressed to the culinary artiste, who remembers perfectly well having burned his fingers whilst send¬ ing up those important removes. To illustrate this just question I will relate a curious and historic anecdote:—having one day served a petit diner, tres recherche, for five persons, in which was a poularde a l’ambassadrice, a new and rather voluminous dish of mine, after the first course a message was sent to me that the gentlemen had found that dish so good they regretted I had not sent two poulardes instead of one ; at first I took this message for a pleasantry, but a short time after three parts of the poularde came down in a state that if exposed over a laundry door would have served for a sign, without having recourse to those popular words, “ mangling done here;” the sight of a dish so greatly disfigured made me collect a few of my little culi¬ nary ideas. Nature, says I to myself, compels us to dine more or less once a day; each of those days you are, honorable reader, subject to meet en tete-h-tete with a fowl, poularde, duck, pheasant, or other volatile species; is it not bad enough to have sacrificed the lives of those animaux bienfaisans to satisfy our indefatigable appetites with¬ out pulling and tearing to atoms the remains of our benefactors ? it is high time for the credit of humanity and the comfort of quiet families, to put an end to the massacre of those innocents. Amongst other tribulations of carving I shall relate a most bovffonne anecdote. “ If you should, unhappily, be forced to carve at table,” says Launcelot Sturgeon, in his Essays, Moral, Philosophical, and Stomachic, “ neither labour at the joint until you put yourself into a heat, nor make such a desperate effort to dissect it as may put your neighbours in fear of their lives ; however, if any accident should hap¬ pen, make no excuses, for they are only an acknowledgment of awk- XIV NEW MODE OF CARVING. wardness. We remember to have seen a man of high fashion deposit a turkey in this way in the lap of a lady, but with admirable compo¬ sure, and without offering the slightest apology, he finished a story which he was telling at the same time, and then, quietly turning to her, merely said, ‘Madam, I’ll thank you for that turkey.’” My conscience will not allow me to swear to the authenticity of the fact, but in the course of twelve months past I have witnessed a very simi¬ lar instance, only the party not possessing the assurance of the fashion¬ able above mentioned, did not continue the conversation, but in his nervous anxiety, endeavouring to replace it on the dish with vivacity, sent it rolling across the table to his right hand neighbour, who, quickly perceiving the imminent danger in which he was placed, for¬ tunately arrested its further progress with his fork. One hearty laugh of the remaining party terminated this scene of confusion. After a short consideration I found, by a most simple rule, and with the greatest facility, that a bird that would take ten minutes to carve very badly may be done well in two or three by the most inexperienced person. From this process a number of advantages may be derived : first, you may eat your dinner much hotter; secondly, you can make eight or ten pieces of a fowl, or any other bird, where, previously, great difficulty was experienced in making five or six ; and each person will thereby be enabled to choose a favorite piece: a large bird, such as turkey, poularde, capon, &c., will be fit to reappear on your table in a very inviting state. I must also observe that the birds are not in the least disfigured, but, on the contrary, their appearance is much improved. DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. By the simple process which I have effected for the jointing of game or small poultry, with a long pointed pair of scissors, separating the sinews which joins the wings to the breast, making the incision as small as possible, and also jointing the legs, by passing your finger between the skin and the flesh, pressing the legs over the breast with the left hand, the separation of the joints may be easily effected, and having thus detached the four principal parts, the carving, when l’oasted, will be very simple. But for the jointing of large birds, as turkeys, geese, capons, &c., procure an instrument I invented for that purpose from Bramah’s, Piccadilly, with which a very intelligible printed direction will be given for its use ; after having jointed the bird, truss it with a packing-needle and string, as usual, but not pressing them so tightly, or they would become deformed, whilst, on the contrary, if merely brought to their usual shape, they will look as plump as possible, and the process they have previously undergone will be totally imperceptible. In many instances where I have sent poultry to table thus previously jointed, the parties carving have been quite surprised at their unex¬ pected progress in that difficult art. Formerly nothing was more dif¬ ficult to carve than wild fowl, the continual motion (when alive) of the wings and legs making the sinews almost as tough as wires, puzzling NEW MODE OF CARVING. XV the best of carvers to separate them ; my new method has quite abo¬ lished such a domestic tribulation. A long and dry description for the carving of each bird separately would be entirely useless, as every one of my readers will have perceived that almost the whole difficulty is defeated by this simple process ; I shall therefore leave the subject, making but the following observation, which is, that in everything I dislike a straight line, and still more so in carving any kind of bird, by doing which you not only spoil their appearance, but cut against the grain, causing them to eat dry and, imperceptibly, obliging you to assist some of the guests to very thick pieces, unless the breast is very full and plump. 1 have here given a simple woodcut of a small turkey, by which you will easily perceive, that by trussing and carving in my new way, as represented, you will be enabled to carve for more people, assisting each to better slices with a middling-sized fowl, or any other bird, than with a larger one trussed and carved in the usual method. Keep, if possible, the legs in the position indicated in the design ; any small birds, Such as woodcocks, plovers, snipes, or teal, are generally cut into two or four, being easily carved, but for anything above their size the foregoing plan had better be acted upon. Respecting the carving of any description of joints, it may be more simply explained. For a saddle of mutton or lamb, proceed precisely as directed for the saddle-back (page 644), and for a round or aitch¬ bone of beef, proceed as scientifically explained (pages 641-3) by the carver of this mighty dish. For the ribs or sirloin of beef, pass the knife between the chine- bone and the flesh to about an inch in depth, but only to about the length you think sufficient to cut as many slices from as you may re¬ quire ; "then having a sharp knife, cut off the outside slice very thinly (which, if roasted according to my new plan, will be very good, espe¬ cially where parties have an objection to then’ meat the least under¬ done) ; hold your knife a little in a slanting direction, and continue cutting thin slices from the chine to the end, especially with the ribs, which are more lean, but it is preferable to leave all the ends of the sirloin in the dish as you carve, if not wanted, or after having carved two or three plates you are forced to dig the lean out, which is not only often, but generally done in a club house where a scientific carver XVI NEW MODE OF CARVING. is not employed ; if a slice from tlxe fillet of a sirloin is required, the servant must take the joint to the side-board, and turn it over with a couple of forks, when again placed upon the table, the carver must carefully part some of the fat wicli covers it, if too much, then cut short slices in a slanting direction, as if from the breast of a fowl, in¬ stead of crosswise, for then if clumsily carved and overdone it has a strong resemblance to an old strap. For a rump of beef, either roasted or stewed, always commence at the fattest end, carving in a slanting direction, by which means you will obtain a correct quantity of that delicate article, if even you should be carving for twenty people, whilst by cutting straight across, some would have the greater proportion fat and the remainder nothing but lean. Any other piece of beef rolled and stewed, and fillets of beef, as served for a remove, all require to be carved in a slanting direction. For a fillet of veal, proceed in the same manner as directed for a round of beef. A loin of veal, if cut straight at the commencement, is entirely spoiled, but when carved slantingly (if well done from the best end), and eaten with its own gravy, nothing could be nicer, the remaining is then also very good cold, even the kidney ought to be served the same; and the breasts, either roasted or stewed, require the same style of carving. For legs of mutton or lamb I also proceed in a new way, the frill, which is placed upon the knuckle-bone, is not only intended to orna¬ ment the leg, but likewise to enable you to hold the bone with your left hand, and carving with the right, which would wonderfully facili¬ tate the operation, instead of cutting across the middle, which opens all parts at once, thus losing a great deal of the succulence. I com¬ mence cutting at about two inches from the knuckle, commencing to cut with the heel of the knife, drawing it along to the point, cutting six or eight slices at once, more or less if required, then pass the knife beneath the whole, detaching them from the bone,, thus helping each person quickly and with very hot meat, the gravy remaining in the meat will keep it moistened in good order for cold, whilst in the general manner you have nothing but dry meat, or if underdone on purpose for cold, the meat will always have a black appearance. This is my way of carving at home, but if objectionable to take the frill with the fingers, make use of the carving fork ; at home I never allow any gravy to be put into the dish, but served separately in a boat, but if the meat is of good quality it will supply (if well roasted) an abun¬ dance of good gravy. If for the table of the wealthy, commence carving the leg nearer to the centre, but always in a slanting direction. For shoulders of mutton or lamb to eat well and delicate, the fat and lean must be well mixed in serving, to accomplish which the joint must be carved in a still more slanting direction than the legs, also be¬ ginning rather near to the knuckle. For necks and loins of mutton, never separate the bones of either with a chopper, or you will partially mutilate the meat, thus losing all the gravy in roasting, and frequently have great difficulty in carv¬ ing, but separate the joints with a small saw as neatly as possible, cutting in the direction you require to carve. DIRECTIONS FOR LARDING. XVII For ribs of lamb, which should be properly prepared for carving be¬ fore being roasted, having the centre of the bones broken, with the chine-bone detached; to carve you must of course follow the bones, which run rather slantingly, helping each person to a cutlet from the neck, with a slice of the breast, but not cut too thick ; by following this plan, each person will have partaken of the breast, which, without con¬ tradiction, is the most delicate part (but which is most frequently left to be eaten when dry and cold), and if any remains, being evenly carved, will be very presentable to table on the following day. To carve a ham proceed very similar to the manner directed for the carving of a leg of mutton, commencing two inches from the knuckle, cutting very thin and delicate slices, slanting more and more as you proceed, or you will have nothing but fat left at the extremity. To carve an ox-tongue, stick your fork into the root, and cut a thin slice off, placing the heel of the knife upon it, which draw along to the point, thus taking the slice off in one cut, leaving it upon the dish, and serving the inner slices cut in the same manner, but very thin and delicate, you will thus have carved the best part of it easily without disfiguring the whole, still having a decent piece remaining for cold, but if you had commenced in the middle you would at once spoil the appearance, and the remainder would eat dry when cold. Nothing is more creditable to a carver than leaving a piece of either meat, game, or poultry, fit to reappear at table in an inviting state. DIRECTIONS FOR LARDING. My motive for introducing the directions for larding at the com¬ mencement of this work is to give to it the importance which it de¬ serves, it having in all former works been generally omitted, or lost amongst a multitude of receipts, which has made me desirous of placing it in a conspicuous place, in the hopes that many families in the middle classes of society may be able to partake of that very inexpensive luxury. Nothing but experience and practice would enable a person to lard well, I have, therefore, given the few following directions, so that a person might improve himself after once commencing. I have been induced to do so from the fact of having had many female cooks with me for improvement, many of whom could send up very good dinners, but few of them have scarcely known or had any idea of larding, being in the habit of having it done at their poulterers whilst in London, and in the country avoiding it entirely : I shall, therefore, endeavour to explain first the choice of the bacon; secondly, the man¬ ner of cutting it; and lastly, the best mode of larding. Choose the firmest bacon you can obtain, quite fat, and not at all red, or it would break and cause a deal of trouble. To cut it, take off the piece of lean at the bottom, lay it upon a board with the rind upwards, and beat gently with a cutlet bat, trim the sides, and cut it XV111 MEAT AND POULTRY. into bands the breadth that you may require your lardons in length ; if for a fillet of beef, two inches; for fricandeau, turkey, poularde, fowl, pheasant, or sweetbread, an inch and a half; and for lamb’s sweetbreads much smaller. Take one of the bands, place it before you with the rind downwards, and with a sharp knife cut it in slices, (but not separating it from the rind), of the thickness you require for the article you are about to lard, then place your hand at the top, press lightly, and draw your knife straight along as if cutting the bacon in slices, so as to form the lardons square at each end, com¬ mencing cutting from the heel of the knife, and finishing at the point. To lard, the French method is so familiar to me that I cannot but recommend it, especially to inexperienced hands ; if a fricandeau, lay it lengthwise upon a clean napkin across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at, having previously taken all the skin from the veal with a knife, then with the point of your larding-needle make three distinct lines across, half an inch apart, run your needle into the third line, (at the further side of the fricandeau,) and bring it out at the first, placing one of the lardons in it, draw the needle through, leaving out a quarter of an inch of the end of the bacon at each line ; proceed thus to the end of the row; then make another line half an inch distant, stick in another row of lardons, bringing them out at the second line leaving the ends of the bacon out all of the same length ; make the next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardons of the first row ; proceeding in like manner until you have larded the whole surface in chequered rows : proceed in like manner with everything you lard, the difference being only in the size of the lardons, and in the case of poultry or game, previously scald the breasts. By following closely the above simple directions any cook may be able if not to lard well, at any rate to lard well enough for every day use, which would give practice and likewise competence to lard articles required upon more particular occasions. MEAT AND POULTRY. A FEW THINGS I OBJECT TO, THAT IS, NOT TO USE IN COOKERX COMES¬ TIBLES WHEN OUT OF, OB BEFORE, THEIR PROPER SEASON. For Butcher’s Meat, see page G37, Kitchen at Home. In Poultry. I never use turkeys before Michaelmas, and not after the latter end of March. Ditto turkey poults before the end of June, and not after September. Capons, poulardes, pullets, and fowls, I use all the year round. I begin about March with the spring chickens, till the beginning of July. Geese are in almost all the year round. Goslings, or green geese, commence early in the spring, and are called so till the end of September, thus there is hardly any difference between them and the Michaelmas geese. FISH. XIX Ducks and ducklings the same. Rabbits and pigeons may be used all the year round ; but it is only in the early part of the spring that I use tame rabbits. Guinea-fowls are used when pheasants go out, which is about the latter end of January, and are used till the end of May. Their eggs are very good, more delicate than the common ones. I never use grouse before the 14th Aug., and after the 22d December. Black cocks and gray hens about the same time as grouse, but they are more uncertain. Ptarmigans are sent from Norway about the middle of January, and continue till March, but that depends much upon the weather. Though the shooting season for partridges is the 1st of September, and lasts till the end of January, I never cook one before the 3d, ex¬ cept being desired to do so, but I often keep some for three weeks after the shooting season is over. The same with pheasants, which begins from the 1st of October till the end of January. By hanging them by the necks and putting a piece of garlic in the beak and a little cayenne, I one cold winter kept one six weeks after the shooting time had expired, which I after¬ wards presented to a party of real gourmets, who said it was the best they had partaken of during the season. I always use wild ducks, widgeons, teal, pintails, larks, golden plovers, snipes, woodcocks, from the commencement of November till the latter part of March, after which the flesh becomes rank and unfit for the table. Young pea-fowls are very good, and make a noble roast, see page 401, and are in season from January till June, but they are very un¬ certain. Plovers’ eggs, my favorite, an unparalleled delicacy, come about the middle of March, and are not considered good after the latter end of May; but when I can get them fresh in June, I do not discontinue their use, because they are, in my estimation, worthy of the patronage of the greatest gourmet. I have paid for them, at the beginning of the season, three shillings and sixpence each; they are the black plover or peweet’s eggs. FISH. For the last few years there has been quite an alteration in the description of the seasons for these golden and silvery inhabitants of the deep. Except the Cod-fish, which come in September, and by strictness of rule must disappear in March, the season for all other sea-fish becomes a puzzle; but the method I follow during the season is as follows : Crimped Gloucester is plentiful in June and part of July, but it may be procured almost all the year round. Common Salmon from March to July. XX fish. VEGETABLES ANI) FRUIT. Salrntm Peale from June to July. Spey Trout from May to July. Sturgeon, though not thought much of, is very good in June. Turbot are in season all the year round. John Dories depend entirely upon chance, but may be procured all the year round for the epicure, May excepted. The original season of Yarmouth Mackerels is from the 12th of May till the end of July ; now we have Christmas mackerel; then the west of England mackerel, which are good at the beginning of April. Haddock and Whiting all the year round. Skate all the winter. Smelts from the Medway are the best, and are winter fish, the Yarmouth and Carlisle are good, but rather large ; the Dutch are also very large, which often lose in the estimation of the epicure. Brill is like turbot as to season. Slips are similar to soles, good all the year round. Gurnets are rather a spring fish. Flounders and Diamond Plaice, are in full season from June to July. Red Mullets vary very much now, but the beginning of the season was formerly the 12th of May; we had none this year, except at a very extravagant price. I always use them when they are to be ob¬ tained. Fresh Herrings are in season from November to January. River Eels all the year round. Lobsters in the spring and part of the summer. Prawns ditto. Crabs are best in May. Oysters begin in August, but are not very good till September. Barrelled Oysters begin on the 15tli of September, and last till the end of February. Barrelled cod, Lent fish, are best in winter or about March. Sprats come in about the 8th of November. Crawfish is a very favorite dish of the greatest epicures of France, and also of a few of the English ; the author regrets that in fulfilment of an agreement between himself and M. Sampayo he is restricted from giving the receipt of Crawfish a la Sampayo, which has appeared in his Bill of Fare, No. G09. The reason of the enormous expense of this dish is that two large bottles of truffes du Perigord, which do not cost less than four guineas, are stewed with them in champagne. VEGETABLES AND FRUIT. The seasons for those delicacies are the principal guide for the epicure; but though either can be obtained by artificial means at a great expense, they do not repay in flavour the amount of their exor¬ bitant price. XXI HOW EVERYTHING SHOULD BE IN COOKING. All clear soup must not be too strong of meat, and must be of a light brown, sherry, or straw colour. All white or brown thick soups must be rather thinnish, lightly ad¬ hering to the back of the spoon. All purees must adhere little more to the back of the spoon. Any Italian paste must be very clear, rather strong, and the colour of pale sherry. All kinds of fish sauce should be thicker for boiled fish than for broiled or fried. Brown sauce should be a little thinnish and the colour of a horse- chesnut. White sauce should be of the colour of ivory, and thicker than brown sauce. Cream, or Dutch sauce, must be rather thickish, and cannot be too white. Demi-glace requires to be rather thin, but yet sufficiently reduced to envelop any pieces of meat, game, poultry, &c., with which it is served. Every description of fish should be well done, but not over-boiled, broiled, stewed, or fried. Beef and mutton must be underdone even for joints, removes, and entrees. Lamb requires to be more done. Veal and pork must be well done. Venison must be underdone, red in the middle, and full of gravy, but not raw. Poultry, either broiled, stewed, boiled, or roasted, must be done thoroughly, not cutting in the least red, but must still be full of gravy. Pheasants and partridges must be well done through, yet full of gravy. Grouse, black cocks, gray hens, and ptarmigans, must cut reddish, with plenty of gravy, but not too much underdone. All kinds of water-fowl must be very much underdone, so that the blood and gravy follow the knife in carving. Plovers must be rather underdone, but done through. Rabbits and pigeons must be well done. Second-course savoury dishes must be rather highly seasoned, but with a little moderation. Pastry should, when baked, be clear, light, and transparent, and of a beautiful straw colour; the body of a croustade the same. Large pies, timbales, and casseroles of rice must be of a yellowish brown colour. Jellies require to be very white and transparent for fruits, and not too firm, but better so than too delicate. Orange jellies should be of a deep orange colour, and all fruit jellies as near as possible to the colour of the fruit. XXII HOW EVERYTHING SHOULD BE IN COOKING. Creams should be very light and delicate, but fruit creams must be kept of the colour of the fruits they are made of. For all the demi-glace removes the ice must be firm, but not the least hard. All kinds of souffle or fondu must be well done through, or they would be very indigestible, clog the delicate palate, and prevent the de- gustation of the generous claret which flows so freely after dinner on the table of the real epicure. I recommend sugar in almost all savoury dishes, as it greatly facili¬ tates digestion and invigorates the palate, but always increase or dimi¬ nish the quantity according to the taste of your employer. I often introduce onions, eschalots, or even a little garlic in some of my most delicate dishes, but so well blended with other flavours that I never have a single objection even by those who have a great dislike to it. Horseradish and herbs of every description may always be used with discretion to great advantage. Contrary to the expressed opinion of every other previous publica¬ tion, I say that too much seasoning is preferable to too little, as your employer can correct you by saying there is too much of this or that, and you can soon get it to his taste; but while you fear over¬ seasoning you produce no flavour at all; by allowing each guest to season for himself, your sauce attains a diversity of flavours. The cook must season for the guest, not the guest for the cook. I have always found great advantage in dressing the greatest part of my entrees on a thin roll of mashed potatoes ;* this has never been found objectionable, as it is so thin that it is imperceptible when covered with the sauces, and serves to prevent any entrees dressed in crown from being upset, before going on table, by the carelessness of the servant; For large removes, as turkey a la Nelson (No. 510), &c., after forming the ship (see engraving), egg, bread-crumb, and set in a moderate oven to brown, fix in your croustade, and dish up; the potatoes may be eaten, but not the croustade, which is merely an embellishment. Borders may also be made of forcemeat, as for ris de veau (No. 673), but gives much more trouble without being better; also of rice, by preparing it as for casserole au riz (p. 260) ; it may be used as mashed potatoes. Make but few preserves, only those that are indispensable ; you wall have a continual enjoyment of earlier stock, as Nature closely watches our wants and liberally supplies our wishes. The real gourmet, though anxious to produce novelty, never attempts to over-force the produce of the various seasons. * The mashed potatoes which are to be used for dishing up as described throughout this work, are simply prepared as follows:—Plain boil or steam six or eight large mealy potatoes; when well done peel and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt; then with the prong of a fork whisk them till quite in puree; then add two tablespoonfuls of milk, work up with a small wooden spoon till forming a paste; then lay a small quantity on a clean cloth, roll it to the circumference of a fourpenny or sixpenny piece, and form a round with it in your dish according to the size of the entree; alter the proportion according to the size of the flanc or remove. XX111 NUMBER OF STEWPANS AND OTHER KITCHEN UTENSILS REQUIRED 1 ST THE KITCHENS OF WHICH I HAVE GIVEN PLANS, COMMENCING WITH THE COMPLETE BATTERIE DE CUISINE OF THE REFORM CLUE. Utensils. Reform Club Kitchen. Kitchen of the Wealthy. Kitchen at Home. Kitchen of the Bachelor. Cottage Kitchen. Stewpans, the sizes fluctuating from six gallons to half a pint 80 36 12 6,1 hold- 4 Stock-pots varying from twelve gallons ingagall. to two .... 8 4 1 . « 6 black Turbot kettles, one full size, and another sauce- two sizes smaller . 2 2 1 small pans. Long fish-kettles, two large, and two middling-sized ones 4 2 1 rather 1 rather 1 Braising-pans, two large and two mid- larger wide dliug sized 4 2 1 Preserving-pans (copper) one large round bottomed and one large flat bot- tomed .... 2 2 1 1 flat Egg bowls, one large and one middling bottind sized .... 2 2 1 1 Baba and sponge-cake moulds . 2 2 Large round copper pie-dislies for servants 4 Thick flat braising-pans with hermetic covers .... G 6 2 1 Saute-pans, twenty deep, with thick bot- toms, and ten others 30 12 6 2 2 Bain-marie-pans, varying from two gal- Ions to a pint 36 18 8 2 Pie-moulds for raised pies 6 4 1 6 Jelly and charlotte moulds 24 12 4 1 Small bordure for aspic jellies . 6 4 1 2 Freezing-pots, with accessories . 4 2 1 1 Baking-sheets of various sizes . 12 12 2 2 Gridirons .... 6 2 1 1 Salamanders .... 2 1 1 small 1 1 Spoon drainers .... 4 2 1 1 Spits of various sizes, including two with cradles .... 12 6 2 2 Dripping-pans .... 2 1 1 1 Steam copper cases for puddings and potatoes .... 4 Round copper fruit bowls with handles 4 1 1 Sugar-pans .... 6 2 1 1 Soup ladles (small and cheap utensils) . 18 12 4 2 1 Copper kitchen spoons, six of which are 2 1 colander spoons 36 18 8 6 2 Wire baskets for frving 6 2 2 1 1 Wire sieves .... 6 2 1 1 Hair sieves .... 8 2 1 1 1 XXIV Utensils. Reform Club Kitchen. Kitchen of the Wealthy. Kitchen at Home. Kitchen of the Bachelor. Cottage Kitchen. J Omelette-pans .... 6 2 1 1 1 Small jelly and driole movdds 36 18 12 12 Tartelette-pans .... 36 12 12 8 Tannnies .... 6 4 2 2 Jelly bags .... 4 2 1 1 Wooden spoons 24 12 8 6 4 Paste brushes .... 10 4 2 2 1 Scissors . 2 prs 1 1 1 1 Kitchen knives .... 12 6 2 2 1 Boxes of cutters for vegetables and pastry 4 4 2 2 Trivets, four common, and two for gas 2 stoves .... 6 2 2 2 Meat saws, four large and two small 6 3 2,1 sml 2 2 Cutlet bats .... 4 2 1 1 1 Meat choppers, large 2 1 1 1 Steak-tongs, two large and two small 6 pairs .... 4 prs 2 1 large 1 1 Meat-hooks .... 24 12 6 6 4 Rolling-pins .... 2 1 1 1 1 Kitchen basins .... 36 24 12 8 6 Small pie-dishes for fruit and meat 24 12 6 4 6 Kitchen table-cloths 20 dz 10 doz. 12 2 2 Rubbers .... 12 dz 4 doz. 2 4 8 Pish napkins .... 24 12 6 2 2 Pudding-cloths .... 18 12 2 2 2 Round towels .... 12 6 2 2 2 THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR. SAUCES. The first eight sauces are what we term Foundation sauces; but to facilitate and simplify the making of all kinds of made dishes, I have throughout this work princi¬ pally referred to the Brown Sauce (No. 1), and the White Sauce (No. 7), which are the two sauces I daily and prin¬ cipally use. The others are of course very good, and some¬ times necessary; but being more complicated, I would re¬ commend that they be left to culinary artists, who can easily surmount this difficulty. The two above-mentioned sauces require nothing but a little care and attention; if well made, you will have little trouble with the smaller sauces; for the foundation sauces being well made, the smaller ones require little more than the ingredients directed for them, to give them then’ proper flavour; but if badly made, it would injure the whole dinner. The above-named sauces will keep four or five days in summer, and a week in winter, by adding a quart of light broth, and boding them up every day in summer, and every other day in winter. The following proportions in the foundation sauces are sufficient for a large dinner; but of course where so much is not required, a quarter, or even a smaller quantity can be made. 1 2 SAUCES. The colour of the brown sauce ought to be as near as possible to that of the horse-chesnut, whilst the white sauce should be of the colour of rich cream. If possible, nothing but the best flour should ever be used for a roux, which is the Trench culinary term for thickening; for inferior or new flour loses its strength by boiling, and your sauce would become thin and watery: but if such be the case, you should make more roux, to obviate this difficulty, which must be well mixed with a little cold stock, poured into the sauce, and all boiled together till you have obtained the consistency directed. No. 1. Brown Sauce. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a large thick-bot¬ tomed stewpan, rub it all over the bottom, then peel and cut ten large onions in halves, with which cover the bottom; then take two pounds of lean ham cut into slices, which lay over the onions ; having ready cut in large slices twenty pounds of leg of beef and veal, put it over the ham, and place the s-tewpan over a sharp fire ; let it remain a quarter of an hour, then with a large wooden spoon move the whole mass round, but keeping the onions still at the bottom. Keeping it over the fire, and stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a light brown glaze, then prick the meat with a fork, take off the stewpan, and put some ashes upon the fire, to deaden its heat; place the stewpan again over it, and let it stand half an hour longer, stirring it twice during that time; the bottom will then be covered with a thick but clear brown glaze ; fill it up with fourteen quarts of water or sixteen of light stock (No. 133), then add three turnips, two carrots, four blades of mace, and a bunch of ten sprigs of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves ; leave it over the fire until it boils, then place it on the comer, add a quarter of a pound of salt; skim off all the fat, and SAUCES. 3 let it simmer for two hours, adding two quarts of cold water by degrees, to clarify it and keep it to its original quantity; then skim it again, and pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin, (by filling up the stewpan again with water you will have then an excellent second stock—for filling up stocks for soups or sauces, this remark also applies to every description of stocks;) if by any misfortune the stock should become thick, clarify it as directed (No. 134). Then proceed as follows: put one pound of butter into a deep stewpan, (which is the best for this purpose,) place it over the fire, stirring it until it melts; then stir in a pound and a half of best flour, mix it well, and keep stirring it over the fire until it assumes a brownish tinge; then take it from the fire, and keep stirring the roux until partly cold, then pour in the stock quickly, still stirring it; place it over a sharp fire, stirring it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the stove, and let it simmer an hour and a half; by keeping it skimmed, you will take off all the butter, and the sauce will become clear and transparent; place it again over a sharp fire, and keep it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, stirring it round occasionally until cold, and use it where required. Should the colour of the sauce be too pale, add a few spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135). No. 2. Espagnole Sauce. Put half a pound of butter into a large thick-bottomed stewpan, and cover the bottom with good slices of ham about a quarter of an inch in thickness; then cut up two legs of veal into as large slices as possible, (having twenty pounds of meat,) but reserving the nut, or noix, for flanks or entrees, (see No. 565 ;) put the meat without any of the bone into the stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire for twenty minutes, then shake it round, to prevent the ham 4 SAUCES. sticking to the bottom; cover it over quite close, then put a few ashes upon the fire; put the stewpan again over it, shaking it round occasionally, and once or twice turning the whole mass round together with a wooden spoon until the bottom is covered with a light glaze; prick the meat with a fork to let out the gravy, and with it remove the bottom pieces to the top; replace it upon the fire, shaking it round occasionally until each piece of meat be covered with a clear brown glaze; then fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133); add six onions (in one of which you have stuck six cloves), twelve peppercorns, two blades of mace, two carrots, a good bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; when it boils place it on the comer of the stove, skim it, and add two ounces of salt; let it boil rather quickly, adding two quarts of water by degrees, which will facilitate the abstraction of all the fat in skimming; boil it two hours, then pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin. Make a roux, and ter¬ minate your sauce as described in the last. No. 3. Brown Sauce from all sorts of meat. Knowing by experience the difficulty of getting meat for stock in the country, especially veal, I will, for the conveni¬ ence of families, give a receipt for brown sauce, to be made from rabbits, poultry, trimmings of mutton, beef, pork, or even venison; (but to every ten pounds of meat required, use twelve, as it is not so succulent as beef or veal.) In Scotland I was compelled to use venison even for beef- tea; this may appear rather strange, but it is no less true; for although the wealth of my employer would have enabled me to have anything required for my use, money could not purchase it at the time required. The mock beef-tea had of course a wild flavour, but it was still very palatable. Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, upon which lay ten large SAUCES. 5 onions peeled and cut in halves, then put in what trimmings of meat or poultry you may have, proceed exactly with it as directed for brown sauce (No. 1), but using stock or water in proportion to the quantity of meat; the same precaution must be used likewise with the quantity of roux used for thickening. No. 4. For thickening Frown Sauce without making a roux. Make your stock as directed in either of the three last receipts, (according to circumstances;) if sixteen quarts, bake two pounds of the best flour in a moderate oven, without letting it brown; sift it, and when quite cold mix it into a thin paste with two quarts of cold stock; mix it by degrees, getting it as smooth as possible; have the stock for your sauce boiling in a stewpan upon the fire, into which pour in the paste, keeping it stirred until it boils; then set it at the comer of the stove; let it simmer an hour and a half; skim it well, then place- it upon a brisk fire, and add a few chopped mushrooms, boil it very quickly, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then pass it through a tarnmie as before, and use it where required. No. 5. Veloute. This sauce has stood for a century as a foundation sauce in the highest class of cookery, and may be admired for its utility, and the delicacy of its flavour; but I have avoided referring to it in almost every receipt on account of the expense attached to it and its tedious fabrication. Ac¬ cording to the old system, it requires two days to com¬ plete it; one for the simmering of the stock, and the other for the sauce. I have here, however, succeeded in simpli¬ fying it, by which the aroma of its component parts are better preserved than when subject to so long boiling. Put six tablespoonfuls of oil in a large thick-bottomed 6 SAUCES. stewpan, rub it over tlie bottom, then lay in twenty pounds of veal in large slices, (from knuckles or the under part of legs,) an old fowl, two carrots, six onions, (in one of which you have stuck six cloves,) two blades of mace, four pounds of good ham, and a bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and place the stewpan upon a sharp fire; when it begins to form large bubbles, stir the whole round with a large wooden spoon; place some ashes upon the fire, and some live charcoal upon the lid of the stewpan; take off the lid occasionally, and stir the meat round, prick it, and when each piece is covered with a light white glaze fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133), or water, add a quarter of a pound of salt, if water, but only three ounces, if stock; when upon the point of boiling, stand it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer for two hours and a half, keeping it well skimmed, and adding a little cold water every now and then, to clarify it and keep its quantity; pass it through a fine cloth into a basin; then in another stewpan have a pound of fresh butter, which melt upon a slow fire, stirring in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes (but do not let it change colour), add the trimmings of half a pottle of mushrooms; stir it round another minute, then take it off the fire and keep stirring it until about half cold; then pour in the stock all at once, keeping it stirred quickly; place it over a sharp fire, and stir it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the fire and let it simmer for two horns, keeping it well skimmed; pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold; when wanted, take the quantity you require, reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with half a pint of cream or boiled milk. This sauce, when well made, should be as white as ivory; SAUCES. 7 it is used for removes or entrees of poultry, and may be substituted for white sauce in any of these receipts. No. 6. Veloute , a plainer way. Well oil the bottom of a thick stewpan; cut twelve pounds of veal in dice, (lamb trimmings or rabbits may be used with it,) and two pounds of lean ham also cut in dice; put the whole into the stewpan with three onions, a carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, half a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and set it over a sharp fire, stirring it round occasionally, (the fire should be sharp at first, but very slow at the finish,) until the meat and the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add a pound of flour, mix it well with the meat, then fill up the stewpan with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or water; add three ounces of salt, if with water, but two if with stock, and keep moving it round until upon the point of boiling, when place it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer two hours, keeping it well skimmed; then pass it through a hail' sieve into a basin, and again through a tammie into another stewpan ; add a few chopped mush¬ rooms ; stir it over the fire until it is reduced to a proper consistency, (this sauce is quickly done, and full of flavour;) finish with a pint of cream or boiling milk, and use it as directed in the last. No. 7. White Sauce, or Bechamel. Cut twelve pounds of knuckles of veal into large dice, with two pounds of lean ham; well butter the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, (some of the bones of the knuckles may be included in the weight of the meat, but not much,) with three large onions, one carrot, a blade of mace, four cloves, and a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of 8 SAUCES. thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in hah a pint of water, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a clear white glaze, then fill it up with ten quarts of stock (No. 183), or nine of water; add three ounces of salt, and when upon the point of boiling, place it on the corner of the fire; let it simmer two hours and a half, keeping it skimmed, and adding cold water occasionally, to keep the quantity, then pass it through a fine cloth into a basin ;* then in another stewpan have one pound of fresh butter, melt it over a slow fire and stir in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes, but do not let it change colour; then take it from the fire, stirring it until half cold, then pour in the stock, stirring it quickly all the time; place it over a sharp fire, keep stirring, and boil it for half an hour; add two table¬ spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and a quart of boiling milk; boil it ten minutes longer, then pass it through a tarnmie into a basin; stir it occasionally until cold, and use it where required. This sauce is easily made, full of flavour, and has a very good appearance. No. 8. Sauce Allemonde, (or German Sauce blanche .) Is made from either of the three foregoing sauces. Put three quarts in a stewpan, which place over a sharp fire; reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred the whole time, it will then be very thick; have the yolks of six eggs in a convenient sized basin; mix the sauce with them by de¬ grees, and turn it again into the stewpan; stir it again over the fire until the yolks are quite done, which will take about five minutes; have three pints of stock reserved from the original sauce, with which mix it by degrees; also * The veal stock mentioned in the several receipts is made precisely as the stock for white sauce. SAUCES. 9 add a pint of boiling milk, but do not make it too thin; boil it again ten minutes, then pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold. Use it for entrees or removes of poultry, either hot or cold; but for cold removes of poultry it is best adapted. This sauce never looks greasy; it will keep four or five days. No. 9. Demi-Glace. Put two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with one quart of consomme (No. 134), one ounce of glaze, four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), place it over the fire, and when boiling place it at the comer, let it simmer very fast, skim it well, and reduce it to a clear light glaze, with sufficient consistence to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon ; then put it by in a basin, and use it where directed. All thin sauces are or will become very much in vogue; they invigorate the appetite without overloading the stomach; and are, consequently, more wholesome; all brown sauces are preferable for meat or game entrees, and in some instances, which you will see, for poultry; but of course the arrangement of your tables would prevent you serving all white or all brown entrees. For families who have their entrees placed upon the table at the same time as the soup and fish, a thin sauce is much preferable; for if even the sauce should retain the same de¬ gree of heat it was served at, it will become much thicker by standing; but a sauce served thick if allowed to remain becomes ahnost uneatable. No. 10. Sauce au jus tVEstragon. Put two spoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling add eighteen spoon¬ fuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consomme (No. 134), 10 SAUCES. add a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, place it over tlie fire and let it reduce very fast until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add thirty fresh leaves of tarragon, let it just boil up and it is ready for use. Do not make it too long before you require to use it, or the tarragon would spoil the appearance of the sauce. No. 11. Jus d'Estragon clair. Put two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into a stew- pan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; place it over the fire, let it boil, then add a quart of consomme (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), reduce it to half, season with a little sugar and pepper, finish with leaves of tarragon, as in the last. No. 12. Sauce au jus de Tomates. Put an onion in slices into a stewpan with two sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, half a blade of mace, one clove, four sprigs of parsley, two ounces of lean ham, and one ounce of butter; stir them round over a slow fire until becoming rather brown, then add a spoonful of Chili vinegar, ten of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten of consomme (No. 134), boil altogether about ten minutes, skim it, then add ten spoon¬ fuls of very bright preserved tomates, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a very little scraped garlic; season with a little cayenne pepper and salt; boil altogether five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it again into a stewpan, set it upon the fire, boil and skim it. Use it where directed. No. 13. Sauce au jus de Champignons. Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace, (No. 9), into a stewpan with six of consomme (No. 134), and a little sugar; place it upon the fire and reduce it to a clear light demi- glaze; skim it well, then have chopped six good fresh mush- SAUCES. 11 rooms, throw them into the sauce, boil them ten minutes, then rub them through a tammie ; put it again into a stew- pan, warm it, but do not let it boil; after you have passed it, if made in the morning, warm it in your bain marie when required. No. 14. Sauce demi-provenqale. Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with sixteen of consomme (No. 134), place it over a sharp fire, reduce it to two thirds, skim it, scrape half a clove of garlic with a knife, and put it into the sauce with a little sugar, boil it again two minutes, and it is ready for use. No. 15. Sauce au jus piquant. Put two spoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with three of vinegar; reduce it to half over the fire, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consomme (No. 134), boil it about a quarter of an hour, skim it well, add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and when again forming a fight glaze, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkins, and a little cayenne pepper; it must not boil afterwards. No. 16. Sauce au jus cVEcltalote. Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, place it over a sharp fire a couple of minutes, then add eighteen spoonfuls ol demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consomme (No. 134), boil, skim, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar and cayenne pepper. Serve where directed. No. 17. Sauce au jus d'Orange. Take the rind from an orange as thinly as possible, take off all the pith, and cut it into thin strips, three quarters of 12 SAUCES. an inch in length; boil them five minutes in water, and drain them upon the back of a hair sieve; then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consomme (No. 134), reduce it over the fire to the consist¬ ency of demi-glace, then add the rind of the orange and a little sugar, boil it another five minutes, and when ready to serve add a little of the juice of the orange. No. 18. Sauce aujus de Bigarades. Proceed as directed in the last, but substituting a Seville orange for the sweet one, and boiling the rind ten minutes instead of five. No. 19. Jus lie demi Currie. Peel and cut in slices a large onion, some carrot, turnip, two apples, and two ounces of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two cloves, a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, parsley, and one ounce of butter; put the stewpan over a slow fire, stir them round occasionally until they become slightly browned, then add a good table¬ spoonful of the best curry powder, mix it well, then add ten of consomme (No. 134) and eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), boil altogether, then rub it through a tammie; put it in another stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim it well, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when add a little sugar and cayenne if required, but that must depend entirely upon taste. No. 20. Jus lie aux Concombres. Prepare three middling-sized cucumbers, as directed (No. 103), then put two ounces of butter with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half one of chopped onions, into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter is melted add the cucumbers, which pass over the fire until tender SAUCES. 13 and slightly tinged; then put them out upon a cloth, put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into another stewpan with six of consomme (No. 134), reduce it until rather thickish; then add the cucumbers, boil them two minutes, season with a saltspoonful of salt, and the half of one of pepper, skim it, and it is ready to serve. No. 21. Jus lie aux Truffles. Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with ten of consomme (No. 134), reduce it until it becomes again a demi-glace, then add six middling-sized French preserved truffles, cut in thin shoes, with a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, simmer gently ten minutes, it is then ready to serve. No. 22. Jus lie aux Anchois. Put six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with three of consomme (No. 134), and one of brown gravy (No. 135), place it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 78), stir it in quickly, but do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce must be made only at the time of serving. No. 23. Jus lie aux fines Herbes. Put two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onions into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; stir them over the fire until lightly browned; then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and eight of consomme (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skim it well, then add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mush¬ rooms, with a httle cayenne pepper, and a quarter of a tea¬ spoonful of powdered sugar; boil altogether five minutes, and finish with the juice of half a lemon; it is then ready for use. 14 SAUCES. No. 24. Jus lie aux petits Navels. Scoop four large turnips with a scoop about double the size of a pea; when done, wash and well dry them upon a cloth, then put a little powdered sugar into a convenient sized stewpan; place it upon the fire, when it melts and becomes slightly tinged, throw in an ounce of butter and the turnips, place them over a slow fire, tossing them over occasionally until slightly browned; then in another stewpan put ten spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9,) and six of consomme, then add your turnips ; let it simmer upon the corner of the fire, keeping it skimmed until the turnips are done; add a little more seasoning, if required, and it is ready for use. No. 25. Jus lie aux Olives. Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew¬ pan with the same of salad oil; pass them five minutes over a slow fire, then add a teaspoonful of port wine, eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consomme (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skimming it well, then have twenty fine olives, turn them, taking out their stones, so that they resume their original shape, put them into the stewpan with a little sugar, boil them two minutes, and the sauce is ready. Should the olives be too salt, soak them a short time in warm water. No. 26. Sauce aux fines Herbes. Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stew¬ pan with one ounce of butter, stir them over a moderate fire until getting rather brownish, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consomme (No. 134), and two spoon¬ fuls of brown gravy (No. 135), let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of SAUCES. 15 chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and one of preserved tomates; season with a little sugar, cayenne, and salt, if required. When ready to serve add the juice of half a lemon. No. 27. Saucepiquante. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan wdth four of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; let them boil together a few minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of consomme (No. 134), stir it quickly over a sharp fire until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins; it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be seasoned rather high with cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt. No. 28. Sauce Robert. Peel and cut up four middling-sized onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of but¬ ter, stir them over a moderate fire until rather brown; then add two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar, let it boil; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of con¬ somme (No. 134), let it simmer at the corner of the stove ten minutes; skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until rather thick; finish it with two tablespoon¬ fuls of French mustard, a little sugar, and salt, if required. No. 29. Sauce Robert demi-provenc/ile. Put the same quantity of onions into a stewpan as in the last, but using two tablespoonfuls of salad oil instead of butter; proceed as in the last, and finish with a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea. Use this sauce for any pur¬ pose you would the preceding one. 16 SAUCES. No. 80. Sauce a Vltalienne. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, stir them ten minutes over a-sharp fire; then add a wine-glassful of sherry, a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consomme (No. 134), set it over a sharp fire until it boils, then place it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim off all the oil which it will throw up, then place it over the fire, stir with a spoon, reducing it until it adheres to the back of it, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little sugar, salt if required, and finish with the juice of half a lemon. No. 31. Sauce a Vltalienne {white.) Italian sauce for any description of fish, white meat, or poultry, must be made white, which is done by following the directions of the preceding receipts, only substituting white sauce (No. 7) for the brown, and finishing with three spoonfuls of cream. No. 32. Sauce Poivrade. Put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices, into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little celery, leek, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, one bay-leaf, two ounces of lean ham, and eight peppercorns; pass them over a sharp fire until rather brown, add six tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, just boil it, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consomme (No. 134); simmer a short time, skim it, then reduce quickly until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then pass it through a tammie and use where directed. This sauce requires to be highly seasoned. SAUCES. 17 No. 33. Sauce poimade demi-provencode. Proceed as in the last, but adding two eschalots to the vegetables, which pass* in a tablespoonful of oil instead of butter, and finish with a little scraped garlic. No. 34. Sauce a la Bateliere. Put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped tarragon, one of chopped parsley, and four of chopped mush¬ rooms into a stewpan with one blade of mace, three cloves, a wineglassful of vinegar, and one of sherry; set it upon the fire until nearly dry, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), with a pint of consomme, (No. 134), reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoon¬ ful of chopped gherkins, and one of chopped capers ; when ready to serve stir in an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78). Do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce is a good zest for any description of broiled meat or poultry. No. 35. Sauce a la Refonn. Cut up two middling-sized onions into thin slices and put them into a stewpan with two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two ounces of lean uncooked ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of mace, and an ounce of fresh but¬ ter ; stir them ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add two tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, and one of Chili vinegar, boil it one minute; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), or sauce Espagnole (No. 2), three tablespoonfuls of pre¬ served tomates, and eight of consomme (No. 134); place it over the fire until boiling, then put it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred, and rediice until it adheres to * A culinary term. 2 18 SAUCES. the back of the spoon ; then add a good tablespoonful of red currant jelly, and half do. of chopped mushrooms; season a little more if required with pepper and salt; stir it until the jelly is melted, then pass it through a tammie into an¬ other stewpan. When ready to serve, make it hot, and add the white of a hard-boiled egg cut into strips half an inch long, and thick in proportion, four white blanched mush¬ rooms, one gherkin, two green Indian pickles, and half an ounce of cooked ham, or tongue, all cut in strips like the white of egg; do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce must be poured over whatever it is served with. No. 36. Sauce au jus de Groseilles. Put a couple of onions in slices into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf; pass them over a sharp fire until lightly browned; add two teaspoonfuls of common vinegar, let it boil, and then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consomme (No. 134); let it simmer ten minutes at the corner of the fire, skim it well, then place it over the fire, stir and reduce it well, until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon; then add two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; pass it through a tammie, and it is ready to serve with roast hares, fillet, &c., where directed. No. 37. Sauce aux Tomates. Procure two dozen ripe tomates, take out the stalk, squeeze out the juice and the seeds, then put them into a stewpan with a little salt, stew until tender, and drain them upon a sieve; then, in another stewpan, put two onions, part of a carrot, and a turnip, all cut in very thin slices, with a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, two bay-leaves, two cloves, a blade of mace, a clove of garlic, two ounces of lean uncooked ham, and a quarter of a SAUCES. 19 pound of butter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, stir the mierepoix round occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, then add the tomates, stir them over the fire another minute, then stir in six ounces of flour, and add two quarts of consomme (No. 134); boil altogether twenty- five minutes, keeping it stirred, season it with a little salt, sugar, and cayenne pepper, then rub it through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, set it over the fire, when boil¬ ing place it at the corner, let simmer ten minutes, skim well, then pour it in a basin, and use where directed. If no tomates, use two bottles of preserved tomatas. If too thick, dilute it with a little more consomme. No. 38. Sauce a la Tar tare. Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a hair- sieve into a basin, to which add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a little salt and pepper; mix altogether until a wooden spoon; have a pint of good salad oil in a bottle, hold it with the left hand over the basin, dropping it in very gra¬ dually, and with the right continue Stirling it round until it becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a little Tar¬ ragon vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick; then add a tablespoonful of finely-chopped gherkins, half a do. of chopped capers, half a do. of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more salt if required, it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be rather highly seasoned. No. 39. Papillate Sauce. Scrape two ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stew¬ pan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, and four of chopped mushrooms; stir them over a moderate fire ten 20 SAUCES. minutes, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well) and a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it simmer ten minutes, skim it; then add a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, then place it upon the fire; keep it stirred, and reduce until rather thick, then pour it into a basin, and use where di¬ rected. This sauce requires to be thick, but not pasty; it is folded in paper with cotelettes, joints of poultry, game, &c., with which it is also broiled and served, without taking them out of the papers. No. 40. Sauce a la Diable. Chop six large eschalots, wash and press them in a clean cloth, then put them into a stewpan with two wine-glasses full of Chili vinegar, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, and an ounce of glaze; boil all together ten minutes, then add four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), a little sugar, and ten of good gravy; boil it ten minutes longer, then add a pat of butter; stir it well in, and it is ready for use; serve it with devilled kidneys, poultry, or anything broiled. No. 41. Sauce Corinthien. Put four chopped gherkins into a stewpan with a table¬ spoonful of capers, two of red currant jelly, half a tea¬ spoonful of salt, a little cayenne pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of chopped chalots, one of chopped parsley, a wine-glassful of vinegar, and half a tablespoonful of sugar; boil all together five minutes, then add six table¬ spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and twelve of tomate sauce (No. 37), with six of white broth; boil and skim it well; this peculiar sauce is good for all kinds of broiled meat, game, or poultry, or may be eaten cold, with cold meat. SAUCES. 21 No. 42. Sauce Provenqale chaude. Put two yolks of egg in a stewpan, with half a table¬ spoonful of flour, hah a clove of garlic well scraped, a small quantity of cayenne pepper, two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place it over a moderate fire, and stir it until it becomes rather thick; then take it off the fire, stir in two tablespoonfuls of oil by degrees, then eight of melted butter; if you should require to warm it again, stir it in a bain marie of hot water. Use where required. No. 43. Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in three ounces of maitre d’liotel butter (No. 79); stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in; this sauce should only be made at the time of serving. No. 44. Sauce a la Pavigote. Proceed precisely as in the last, only using Ravigote butter (No. 80), instead of the maitre d’hotel butter, as there directed. The simplicity of the last two sauces is perhaps not greater than their utility or delicacy; they may not only be served with various descriptions of fish where directed, but with fillets of beef, mutton and lamb cutlets, calf’s head, calves’ tails, and many other articles where directed in this work. No. 45. Sauce d VIndienne. Put two good tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with four of white vinegar from a bottle of mild Indian pickles, boil them a couple of minutes, then add a 22 SAUCES. pint of white sauce (No. 7), and three tablespoonfuls of white broth; reduce it over a sharp fire (keeping it stirred) until rather thickish, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan; when ready to serve make it hot, and add six of the pickles, cut in strips, which serve in it. No. 46. Curry Sauce. Peel four large onions and two apples, slice, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a blade of mace, six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry-powder, and two of flour; mix it well in, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a quart of white stock; season with a little salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil it a quarter of an horn*, keeping it stirred, then rub through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, boil it up, skim and use it where required. Mangoes or curry paste may be used, but then you only require one spoonful of curry powder. No. 47. Sauce Soubise. Peel six large onions, which cut in very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and place them over a slow fire, stirring occasionally until tender, but keeping them quite white; then add an ounce of flour, mix it well in, then half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of milk; boil altogether twenty minutes ; season with half a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, half ditto of salt, and three quarters ditto of sugar, a little cream may also be added; rub through a tam¬ mie, put it in another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where required. This sauce must be rather thick, but not pasty. SAUCES. 23 No. 48. Sauce Soubise (brown). Peel and slice six onions, as in the last, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over a moderate fire until tender and of a light brown colour, then mix in one tablespoonful of flour, add a pint of demi- glace (No. 9), and ten tablespoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), boil altogether until the onions are quite done, sea¬ son with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, rub it through a tarnmie, put it into another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where directed. No. 49. Sauce a la Milanaise. Cut thirty pieces of blanched maccaroni half an inch in length, as many pieces of lean cooked ham of the same size, and an equal quantity of white blanched mushrooms also the same, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), in a stewpan with four of white broth, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar ; boil it ten minutes, then add the above ingredients with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, stir all gently over the fire ten minutes, finish with a tablespoonful of cream, and use where required. No. 50. Sauce a la Financiere. Put a wineglassful of sherry into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and a bay-leaf, place it upon the fire, and when it boils add a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred; then add twelve fresh blanched mushrooms, twelve prepared cocks¬ combs, a throat sweetbread cut into thin slices, two French preserved truffles also in slices, and twelve small quenelles (No. 120); boil altogether ten minutes, skim it well, thin it with a little consomme if required, but it must be rather thick, and seasoned very palatably. 24 SAUCES. The above may also be made white by using bechamel, or white sauce (No. 7) instead of brown, and following the above directions and finishing with half a gill of cream; serve in a vol-au-vent or wherever directed. No. 51. Sauce aux Truffles. Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, place it over the fire, keeping it stirred until it has reduced one third; have four middling-sized preserved French truffles cut into slices, which throw into the sauce, add a little sugar, and take it from the fire, not allowing it to boil after the truffles are in ; it is then ready to serve where directed: by this simple method you retain the full flavour of the truffles, and keep them tender. Sauce aux truffles may also be made white by using white sauce (No. 7), instead of demi- glace, and finishing with half a gill of cream, but it requires to be rather thicker than the brown. When brown, neither this sauce nor the following must be too thick. No. 52. Sauce aux Champignons. Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred, then add twenty blanched mushrooms (No. 107), a little catsup, and half a teaspoon- fnl of sugar; boil altogether a few minutes, skim it, and it is ready to serve. To make it white put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan with half a teaspoonful of sugar, when it bods add twenty mushrooms, bod altogether ten minutes, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, but do not let it boil afterwards. No. 53. Sauce a la puree de Truffles. Well pound eight middling-sized French preserved truf¬ fles, which afterwards rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put half an onion, a small piece of SAUCES. 25 carrot and turnip, cut into very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender; then add half a glass of wine and the pounded truffles, with which mix half a teaspoonful of flour j then add eight good tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil it ten minutes ; then rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, add a little consomme (No. 134), boil it up, season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, and use where directed. No. 54. Sauce a la jpuree de Champignons. Well pound a pottle of very fresh white mushrooms, then put half an onion, a small piece of carrot, and a small piece of turnip, cut into very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of pars¬ ley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender, then add the mushrooms, and eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7); season with a little salt, and sugar, boil it ten minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of cream, and rub it through a tammie, put it into a stew¬ pan, boil it one minute, and it is ready for use. No. 55. Sauce Perigeux. Put four middling-sized truffles, chopped very fine, into a stewpan with a glass of sherry, boil it one minute, then add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, boil a minute and it is ready to serve. No. 53. Sauce Bechamel a la Creme. Put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of white stock (No. 133), in a stewpan, reduce it over a sharp fire, (keeping it stirred), to one hah, then add half a pint of good cream, a little sugar, and salt if required, boil it ano¬ ther minute, and serve where required. 26 SAUCES. No. 57. Sauce au Supreme. Take the bones of a fowl you have filetted, or the trimmings of any other fowl, either roast or braised, (which is preferable if any,) but if using the bones of a raw fowl lay it in warm water two hours to disgorge, break the bones small and put them into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, a glass of sherry, one onion with a clove stuck in it, and one ounce of ham; place it over a good fire, keep stirring occasion¬ ally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze, then add a quart, of light broth (No. 133), let it boil at the corner of the stove, skim and reduce it to one third, pass it through a cloth, (but first carefully take off every particle of fat), into a large stewpan, add a pint of veloute (No. 5), or bechamel (No. 7), reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a little sugar and four tablespoonfuls of cream, boil two minutes longer, pass it through a tammie, and use where required. No. 58. Veloute de Gibier. Must be made either from pheasant or partridge; (wild rabbit may be introduced); chop up the bones, which put into a stewpan with an onion, the quarter of a carrot, and the quarter of a turnip (cut up small), a little parsley, thyme, and one bay-leaf; add a glass of white wine; pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add a quart of sauce veloute (No. 5), or sauce bechamel (No. 7), and a pint of veal stock; place it again over the fire, and keep stirring until it becomes rather thickish; then add a gill of cream, and a little sugar, boil again until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then pass it through a sieve, and afterwards through a tammie, and use where directed. The bones of two par¬ tridges or one pheasant would be sufficient. SAUCES. 27 No. 59. Sauce a la puree de Gibier. Roast a grouse, and separate all the flesh from the bones, make a sauce with the bones as directed in the next; pound the flesh well in a mortar, put it into a stewpan; then add the sauce, boil altogether five minutes, then rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed. Any description of game, or the remains of some from a previous dinner, may be used for the above purpose; the puree requires to be as thick as bechamel sauce (No. 7). No. 60. Sauce au fumee de Gibier. Roast two grouse, let them get partly cold if time per¬ mits, then cut them into joints, which use for a salmi (see No. 876); chop the trimmings up small, with the back bones, and put them into a stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion, a piece of carrot, and a piece of turnip, all in slices, a little celery, a sprig of thyme, and parsley, a bay- leaf, one clove, and half a blade of mace, stir them over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consomme (No. 134); boil quickly upon the corner of the stove twenty minutes, then skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and afterwards through a tammie into a basin, and use where required. The trimmings of any description of game, or some left from a previous dinner, may be used for making the above sauce, but if you have the choice, the trimmings of grouse are preferable. No. 61. Demi-glace de Gibier. Make a sauce as above, when passed put it into a stew¬ pan with a pint of consomme (No. 134), and a table¬ spoonful of tomate sauce (No. 37); simmer it at the corner of the stove ten minutes, add a little sugar, skim it well, 28 SAUCES. then reduce it quickly until a thinish glaze is formed and adheres to the back of the spoon. No. 62. Sauce Matelotte. Peel about twenty button onions, then put a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, and your onions, pass them over the fire until rather brown; then add a glass of sherry, let it boil, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten spoonfuls of consomme (No. 134), simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions are quite tender, skim it well; then add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), ten heads of mush¬ rooms, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, one of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and a little cayenne pepper. Serve where directed. No. 63. Sauce Genevoise. Put one tablespoonful of chopped onions and one of chop¬ ped eschalots into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them over the fire until lightly browned, then add four glasses of port wine, two cloves, and half a blade of mace, with two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, and one of parsley, boil them a few minutes; then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten tablespoonfuls of consomme (No. 134), reduce it until rather thick; then add one tablespoonful of chopped mush¬ rooms, boil it another minute, then pass it through a tam- mie into a clean stewpan; when just ready to serve, boil it up, season it with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, then stir in one ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78), but do not let it boil after. Serve with any description as directed. No. 64. Sauce a la Beyrout. Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan SAUCES. 29 with one of Chili vinegar and one of common vinegar, eighteen spoonfuls of melted butter, four of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and two of Harvey sauce; then place it over the fire, keep stirring until boiling, then place it at the corner of the stove, let it simmer five minutes, skim it well, then place it again over the fire and stir until it ad¬ heres to the back of the spoon, when add two tablespoon¬ fuls of essence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready to serve. The above is a fish sauce, but may be used for meat or poultry by substituting white sauce (No. 7) for melted butter. (No. 71). No. 65. Sauce a Vessence de Poissons. Have the bones of two whitings or soles, (having used the fillets), break them into pieces and put them into a stewpan with an onion in slices, a good bunch of parsley, a little thyme, bay-leaf, two cloves, one glass of sherry, and ten of white broth; place it over the fire and let it reduce until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and ten of white broth, let it boil twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, boil it again, and finish with half a gill of cream and a little pepper and salt if required. No. 66. Sauce a la Hollandaise. Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan with the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and com¬ mence stirring it with a wooden spoon, (taking it off the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the butter be¬ comes melted and thickens with the eggs, (great care must 30 SAUCES. be exercised, for if it should become too hot the eggs would curdle and render the sauce useless); then add a pint of melted butter, stir it together over the fire, but do not let it boil; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan. When wanted stir it over the fire until quite hot. No. 69. Caper Sauce. Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stew- pan, place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, add two ounces of fresh butter and three table- spoonfuls of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed. 68. Lobster Sauce. Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stew¬ pan, cut a middling sized hen lobster into dice, make a quarter of a pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed (No. 77); when the melted butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the sauce round over the fire, until the butter is melted; season with a little essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, then add the flesh of the lobster. When hot, it is ready to serve where directed. This sauce must be quite red, if no red in the lobster use live spawn. No. 69. Oyster Sauce. Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan with two ounces of flour; then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, as directed (No. 342); put the oysters into another stewpan, and the beards and liquor to the other ingredients, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a salt- spoonful of cayenne pepper, two cloves, half a blade of SAUCES. 31 mace, and six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten minutes; then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce ; then pass it through a tammie over the oysters; make the whole very hot, without boiling, when ready to serve. Another method. Put a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7,) into a stew- pan, with the juice and beards of three dozen oysters, as above, six peppercorns, two cloves, half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then add a spoonful of essence of an¬ chovies, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required; pass it through a tammie over the oysters, as before. A plainer method. Blanch three dozen oysters, take away their beards, and put them, with their liquor, into a stewpan, with half a blade of mace, two cloves, and six peppercorns; place them over the fire, and directly they boil add half an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of 11010 :; shake the stewpan round over the fire two or three minutes, then add a little essence of anchovies; take out the spices, and serve; this sauce is full of flavour, and very simple. If too thick add a little milk. No. 70. Muscle Sauce. Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, only using the liquor of muscle (see No. 341), but not the beards, instead of oysters, and serving muscle in the sauce; four dozen would be about the number required. No. 71. Melted Butter. Mix a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of flour, without putting it upon the 32 SAUCES. fire; then add a pint and a half of cold water, place it upon the fire, keep stirring until upon the point of boiling, but do not let it boil; season with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of salt, and the eighth of one of pepper; pass it through a tammie into a basin, then add two ounces more of fresh butter; keep stirring till the butter is melted; it is then ready for use where required. No. 72. Anchovy Sauce. Make the same quantity of melted butter as directed in the last, but finish it with four good tablespoonfuls of es¬ sence of anchovies; there should be little or no salt in the melted butter. No. 73. Shrimp Sauce. Make the melted butter as for the last, but finish with three tablespoonfuls of the essence ot shrimps, and serve half a pint of picked shrimps in the boat with it. If no essence of shrimps, the anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute. No. 74. Demi Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. Put half the above quantity of melted butter in a stew- pan, and when upon the point of boiling stir in a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 79); directly it melts serve, but do not let it boil. No. 75. Fennel Sauce. This is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel; make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel; serve it in a boat. No. 76. Fgg Sauce. Generally served with salt fish or a Dublin-bay haddock: boil six eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them SAUCES. 33 in pieces about the size of dice • have eight tablespoonfuls of melted butter and three of good cream in a stewpan, season with a little pepper and salt, boil it five minutes, then add the eggs; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the eggs are quite hot, then add two pats of butter; shake it round until the butter is melted, then pour it into a boat, and serve very hot. No. 77. Lobster Butter. Procure a full-sized hen lobster, and quite full of spawn, which take out and pound well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mix them well together, then rub it through a hair-sieve, and put it on a plate upon the ice or in a cold place until wanted. No. 78. Anchovy Butter. Take the bones from ten anchovies, wash the fillets; dry them upon a cloth, and pound them well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; mix well together, and proceed as in the last. No. 79. Maitre d’ Hotel Butter. Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate, with two good tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place till required. 80. Raviyote Butter. Proceed as in the last, only substituting one spoonful of chopped Tarragon, and one of chopped chervils for the two of parsley, and adding half a spoonful of Chili vinegar. 3 34 SAUCES AND GARNITURES OE VEGETABLES. No. 81. Puree de Clioux de Bruxelles. Trim and boil about thirty heads of Brussel sprouts, very green, in two quarts of water, with which you have put a quarter of a handful of salt; when done, drain them and chop them very fine; then put an onion in a stewpan, in slices, with two ounces of butter, three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of raw ham; stir them ten minutes over the fire, then add the chopped Brussel sprouts, and half a tablespoonful of flour ; mix all well together, then add half a pint of white veal stock (No. 7), and half a pint of milk; stir it until it boils, then add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed. Season with a little pepper and salt, if required. It must not be too thick. No. 82. Sauce aux Cltoux de Bruxelles. Trim about thirty small Brussel sprouts; have ready in a stewpan three quarts of boiling water, into which you have put a tablespoonful of salt; put in the sprouts, let them boil twenty minutes, then press them with your finger ; if they are soft they are done, but be careful not to break them; lay them upon a sieve to drain, then put ten spoonfuls of Bechamel sauce (No. 7), into a stewpan, with six of boiled milk; let it reduce a few minutes, then add the sprouts, two ounces of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a one of white pepper, half a teaspoonful of sugar, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of hah a lemon; keep them moving over the fire until the butter is quite melted, and serve where directed. SAUCES. 35 No. 83. Aux Haricots verts. Cut about fifty middling sized French beans into dia¬ monds, and boil them very green in salt and water; when done, drain them upon a sieve; then put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of white broth (No. 133), one ounce of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a one of white pepper, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; then add the French beans ; mix all well together without breaking the beans; when quite hot, stir in two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), and serve. No. 84. Petit Pois a V Anglaise. Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stew- pan, with three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a quarter of an ounce of sugar, a little salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied together; boil them ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir it in quickly, and serve. No. 85. Petit Pois au Lard. Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five do. of brown sauce (No. 1), two of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it boil about ten minutes; have ready braised about a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square ; add it to the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve. No. 86. Puree de Pois vert. Put a pint of raw peas into a stewpan, with six button onions, a bunch of parsley, an ounce ot lean ham, and one do. 3G SAUCES. of blitter; cover the peas with cold water, mix well together with your hands, throw all the water away, put them over a quick fire; when quite tender, add a half tablespoonful of flour; mix well, pound it in the mortar, put it back in the stewpan; add twelve tablespoonfuls of broth (No. 133), season with a salt-spoon of salt, do. of sugar, rub it through a tammie, warm again, add a little cream or milk to give it a proper thickness, and serve. No. 87. A la Palestine. Peel ten Jerusalem artichokes, scoop them with a cutter the size of a small marble, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and a quarter of a spoonful of sugar; set them over a moderate fire, toss them over until they are covered with a glaze, then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and eight do. of white broth (No. 133); boil gently, and skim well; season with a small quantity of salt; when the artichokes are quite tender, but not broken, add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir quickly, and serve. No. 88. Palestine a la Bourgeoise. Prepare and cut the artichokes as above; put an ounce of butter, and a quarter do. of sugar into a stewpan with the artichokes, and pass them over a moderate fire, until they are covered with a white glaze; then add half a table¬ spoonful of flour (mix it well,) and twelve do. of white broth ; let it simmer gently until they are quite tender, season with a little salt and two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir it in quickly, and serve. No. 89. Palestine au Maigre. Cut the artichokes as above (No. 87), pass them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and half ditto of sugar, over SAUCES. 37 a moderate fire until they are covered with a white glaze; then add a tablespoonful of flour, and sixteen ditto of boiled milk; let it simmer gently until the artichokes are quite ten¬ der, season with a little salt and white pepper; to finish add an ounce of fresh butter, and two tablespoonfuls of liason, stir it quickly and serve. If you have not a round scooper any shape will do; but round is preferable, as it is a very tender vegetable, and they are not so liable to break. No. 90. Puree PArtichaut. Feel, wash, and dry, on a cloth, ten artichokes, which cut in very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a small bunch of parsley, one bay- leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, three quarters of a teaspoonful of sugar, and two ditto of broth; cut an ounce of lean ham in dice, set the whole over a slow fire, let it simmer gently for half an hour, when very tender add sixteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7); boil it twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie, into a clean stewpan, and before serving add three tablespoonfuls of liason (No. 119). This sauce requires to be rather thick. No. 91. Puree a la Palestine maigre. Prepare and stew the artichokes precisely as before; when quite tender add one tablespoonful of flour, and eighteen of ditto of boiling milk; let it boil twenty minutes, rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a httle cream before serving. No. 92. Navets Vierges. Peel six large turnips, scoop them the size of a marble, put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of an ounce of sugar, and the turnips, pass them over a moderate fire 38 SAUCES. about twenty minutes, toss them over, when covered with a white glaze add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and four ditto of broth (No. 133), seasonwith a salt-spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream. This sauce must not be too thin. No. 93. Ragout de Navets d brun. Scoop the same quantity of turnips as above (No. 92), put a quarter of an ounce of sugar into a stewpan, set it on the fire until it becomes rather brown, then add an ounce of butter, and the turnips, pass them until they are a yellow brown; then add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), four ditto of broth (No. 133), or brown gravy (No. 135), and a bunch of parsley, with one bay-leaf; add a little salt and pepper, skim well and serve. No. 94. Puree de Navets a blanc . Peel and cut six small turnips in thin slices, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a quarter of a spoonful of white sugar, one onion minced, and a bunch of parsley; stir them over a moderate fire until nearly tender, add eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), let it boil twenty minutes, pass it through a tarnmie, put it into a clean stewpan, finish with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and half an ounce of fresh butter. No. 95. Puree de Navets d brun. Put half an ounce of sugar into a stewpan; let it get rather brown, add two ounces of butter, have ready peeled and cut in thin slices six turnips, add them to the butter and sugar, and stir them about until quite tender; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1); boil it about twenty minutes, rub it through a tarnmie, put it into SAUCES. 39 a clean stewpan, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and about an ounce of butter. Observe.—Never let a puree of any kind remain long at the side of the fire, as it gives it a strong and unpleasant flavour ; if not wanted immediately set it in a bain marie. No. 96. Sauce ccux Chou-Jleurs. Take two boiled cauliflowers, cut the tops off*, so that the flowers will fall to pieces in sprigs, take them up carefully, put eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), into a stewpan with four ditto of white broth (No. 133), a little salt and white pepper; boil it about ten minutes, then add the cauliflower and half a teaspoonful of sugar, toss them about until well mixed, and add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), and serve. No. 97. Puree de Chou-Jleurs. Cut off the flower of two heads of cauliflower well boiled, put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them over a moderate fire about five minutes, then put the cauliflower in and mash them with a wooden spoon, add one tablespoonful of flour, and ten ditto of white broth (No. 133), let it boil about fifteen minutes, season with a teaspoonful of sugar, half ditto of salt, rub it through a tannnie into a clean stewpan, add a gill of good cream and serve, if too thick, moisten with a little milk. No. 98. Macedoine de Legumes. Peel four very red carrots, wash them, cut them with a small scooper the size of a large pea, the outside or red part of the carrot only; when ready, put them into a stewpan of boiling water, let them simmer about a quarter of an hour, then put them on a sieve to drain; peel and scoop the same 40 SAUCES. size six turnips, and twenty button onions, put a teaspoon- ful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and the turnips and onions, pass them over a moderate fire about five minutes, then add the carrots, set them again over the fire until they are covered with a white glaze, add ten table¬ spoonfuls of white broth (No. 133), let them boil about ten minutes, take off all the butter and scum, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), let it reduce until rather thick, season with a little salt if required; and five minutes before serving add three tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), a few French beans, peas, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, or any green vegetable in season. No. 99. Macedoine de Legumes , brown. Prepare the vegetables and season exactly like the above, using brown sauce instead of white, and omitting the liaison. The two last sauces require to be reduced until the sauce adheres to the vegetables, but not too thick. No. 100. Jardiniere. Peel four carrots, cut them lengthwise in slices a quarter of an inch thick, have ready a small long round cutter, cut as many pieces as possible out of each slice, boil them in water a quarter of an hour; peel and cut some turnips exactly the same ; peel twenty button onions, put a tea¬ spoonful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and the turnips and onions; chain the carrots on a sieve and add them; toss the whole over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then put ten tablespoonfuls of consomme (No. 134), to the vegetables, let them simmer until quite tender, reduce and skim them well, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce(No. l),into another stewpan with six ditto of consomme, reduce until rather thick, then add the vegetables, two spoonfuls of green peas, one ditto of French beans, a few SAUCES. 41 small pieces of cauliflower, and a few heads of asparagus; let the whole simmer twelve or thirteen minutes; season with a little salt and sugar if required; just before serving put in an ounce of butter, toss it about until melted ; a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, is a great addition to the flavour . if stewed until them. No. 101. Pointes d’Asperges en petits-pois. Get some fresh sprue grass, cut it about a quarter of an inch long, the green part only where it will break off, have ready a stewpan of boiling water with salt in, throw in the sprue and let it boil very fast until tender, which will be a quarter of an hour, or according to the size; then put them on a sieve to drain, put eight tablespoonfuls of the sprue into a stewpan with ten ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a little consomme, half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and a small quantity of chopped parsley; let it simmer five minutes • to finish add a pat of butter and two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119). No. 102. Puree cV Asperges. Put twelve spoonfuls of sprue (boiled as No. 101), into a stewpan with two ounces of butter ; stir it over a mo¬ derate fire until it is mashed, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix it well, add eleven spoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and ten ditto of broth (No. 135), half a teaspoon¬ ful of sugar, a quarter ditto of salt, let it boil five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan ; before serving add a pat of butter. When wanted warm it quickly or it will turn yellow; if too thick moisten with a little milk. No. 103. Concombres a blanc. Get three best quality fresh cucumbers, cut them in pieces about two inches long, peel each separately, then cut the 42 SAUCES. outside in three slices (or four, if large), leaving the seeds in one piece in the middle, trim off all the edges neatly ; put half a tablespoonful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little chopped eschalots, and the cucumber, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes without breaking, and keep them quite white, then add a little white broth (No. 133), just enough to cover them, let them simmer until tender, then lay them, with a colander spoon, on a sieve to drain; put twelve tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) into the stewpan with six of white broth, skim off all the butter, let it reduce until rather thick; season it with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and half a gill of cream; when ready to serve add the cucumbers. No. 104. Concombres a brim. Prepare and stew the cucumbers exactly the same, only brown them slightly, reducing the same quantity of demi- glace (No. 9) instead of the white sauce. No. 105. Puree de Concombres. Cut the cucumbers in pieces and stew them as above (No. 103), put all the trimmings, and some of the worst¬ shaped pieces into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and half a spoonful of chopped onions, pass them over a moderate fire twelve minutes, add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock (No. 7), and let them simmer until quite tender; then put a tablespoonful of flour, mix it well, add four more of stock, and six ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7), season with half a teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter ditto of salt, and a little pepper, rub it through a tammie. When wanted, warm it very quickly, and add half a gill of cream; put the pieces into the puree and serve ; it must not be too thick. SAUCES. 43 No. 106. Epinard au Jus. Pick all the stalks off and wash the spinach very clean in several waters, have ready a large stewpan of boiling water, in which you have put a handful of salt, put in the spinach, and let it boil as quickly as possible about twenty minutes; when quite tender put it into a colander and press the water out until there is none remaining, then chop it very fine; put one pound of spinach into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it with a wooden spoon over a mo¬ derate fire until the butter is melted; then add a little flour, eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), half a tea¬ spoonful of salt, half ditto of sugar, a little white pepper, and very small quantity of grated nutmeg; a little glaze may be added; finish with two ounces of fresh butter. No. 107. Blanched Mushrooms. Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt and like¬ wise the heads (reserving the stalk for chopping), wash the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel very fine, put them into a stewpan with three table¬ spoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in ■ let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and use where indicated. Observe.—Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can attain; if they are very fresh and white wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth, throw them into the liquid above mentioned. 44 SAUCES. No. 108. Puree (T 0settle. Put into a stewpan four good handfuls of sorrel (after being well washed,) with a small piece of butter, put on the cover and set it over a moderate fire without water, until melted; then put it on a sieve, and rub it all through ; put half a tablespoonful of very fine chopped onions, and two ounces of butter into a stewpan, pass them over a quick fire two or three minutes, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, add the sorrel and ten tablespoonfuls of broth (No. 138), half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt and white pepper; let it boil fifteen minutes, stir in two yolks of eggs quickly, and it is ready to serve. Demi-glace (No. 9) is very good instead of broth. No. 109. Ragout aux jeunes Racines. Peel very thin four carrots and four turnips, cut them flat the thickness of an inch, take a long cutter about three lines diameter, cut as many as possible, blanch the carrots in boiling water five minutes, then put them on a sieve to drain; put a tablespoonful of sugar in a stewpan, set it on the fire until it gets rather brown, then put in an ounce of butter, and the turnips, toss them over the fire until covered with a brown glaze, add the carrots, and eighteen table¬ spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil at the corner of the stove until the vegetables are quite tender, then take them out of the sauce with a spoon, and lay them on a clean sieve ; reduce the sauce until rather thick, season with a little pepper, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add the vegetables carefully, and serve very hot. No. 110. Ragout de petits Oignons. Peel carefully fifty young onions, without breaking them, put half an ounce of sugar into a stewpan, set it on the fire until SAUCES. 45 it gets rather brown, add two ounces of butter and the onions, toss them over the fire until forming a glaze; then add fifteen tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and eight of consomme (No. 134); let them simmer until tender, skim well, season with a small quantity of salt and pepper, and use where indicated ; a little piece of glaze may be added. No. 111. Ragouts dejoetits Oignons a blanc. Peel the same quantity of onions as above, put half an ounce of sugar with two ounces of butter into a stewpan, and the onions, toss them over the fire twenty minutes, then add sixteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of white broth, let them simmer until quite tender; put in a bunch of parsley, season with a little salt and pepper, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119). No. 112. Garniture de fond d’Artichauts. Boil six artichokes in water and salt until quite tender, take the leaves off and trim the bottom until all the hard part is off and the artichoke has a round appearance; cut each in four pieces, put them in a good demi-glace (No. 9), rather thick, for ten minutes; add a little sugar, two pats of butter, and serve. No. 113. Garniture de Haricot blanc nouveau. Put half a pint of white haricot into a stewpan with a pint of cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and an ounce of butter; let it simmer gently about one hom-, or until quite tender, then put them on a sieve to drain; have ready a clean stewpan, put in the haricot with three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a little chopped parsley, and salt, three pats of butter, and the juice of half a lemon, mix well together and serve where indicated. 46 SAUCES. No. 114. Gros Oignons farcis. Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry ; take the middle out of each onion, and fill them with forcemeat (No. 120), (with a little chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it), and put them in a saute pan well buttered, cover them with white broth (No. 133), let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over and serve where required. No. 115. Stewed Cabbage Lettuce. Get twelve cabbage lettuces, as hard and full as possible; take off the outside leaves and wash them well; put them into a stewpan with four quarts of boiling water, and let them boil about twelve minutes,—this process is to take the bitterness off,—lay them on a cloth to dry, cut each lettuce open and season with salt and pepper, close them again, and tie them separately with a string, put a few cloves in an onion, put it in a stewpan with a few vegetables of all kinds, a bunch of parsley, and a few slices of fat bacon on the top, lay the lettuce in and cover with some very good veal stock (No. 7); put them over a slow fire about an hour, take them carefully out and cut the string, lay the heart upwards, dress them on a dish to form a star, or if they are small do not cut them open. Use for garniture where directed. No. 116. Chou braise and Chou-croute. Cut two large savoy cabbages in quarters, which trim and wash well, then blanch them twenty minutes in boiling water, then lay them upon a cloth, season them well, and stew them as directed in the last, use where indicated. Cliou-croute. Take three or four pounds, not too sour, SAUCES. 47 and put it into a stewpan, with some slices of fat bacon, six onions cut in halves, three cloves, a blade of mace, half a carrot, half a turnip, four bay-leaves, and a few sprigs of thyme and parsley (laying the vegetables at the bottom and the chou-crout over them, which cover with fat bacon;) add a pint and a half of good stock, and stew it gently for two hours; when ready to serve press them at the rim of the stewpan with a colander spoon, and pom off as much of the grease as possible, it is then ready for use where directed. Chou-croute is generally sufficiently seasoned in the barrel, but it may perhaps require a little more pepper and salt. No. 117. Stewed Celery for Garniture and Celery Sauce. Procure twelve very fine heads of red celery, take off the loose branches, and cut the celery into heads five inches in length, blanch them twenty minutes in a stewpan of boil¬ ing water, then put them upon a sieve to drain, stew them precisely as directed for the lettuce (No. 115); but before stewing if the heads are too large split them in halves ; use where directed. To make celery sauce, or puree of celery, blanch twelve heads of fine white celery in boiling water until tender, then drain them upon a sieve, cut off the roots, chop, and put the celery into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it five minutes over a fire, then stir in one ounce of flour, add a pint of milk and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), boil altogether ten minutes, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a whole one of powdered sugar; then pass it through a tam- mie, put it into another stewpan, and make it hot when ready to serve. No. 118. Choux-feursfor Garnitures. Take four heads of cauliflower, cut each in four pieces, trimming the stalks to give them a neat appearance; put half 48 APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES. a gallon of water into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of salt, when boiling, put in the cauli¬ flowers to simmer about twenty minutes; when done, let them remain in their stock until wanted. No. 119. Chicoree , or Endive Sauce. Well wash six heads of very white endive, blanch them in boiling water until tender, then drain them upon a sieve, after which chop them very fine, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, then add the endive, ten spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a piece of white glaze the size of a walnut, a little nutmeg, salt, and sugar; place it upon the fire, and when quite hot finish with half a gill of cream, and use where directed. [ Liaison . Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with which mix eight tablespoonfuls of cream or six of milk, pass it through a tammie and use where directed.] APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES. No. 120. Forcemeat of Veal. Take a pound and a half of lean veal, scrape, pound, and pass it through a fine wire sieve, when passed there should be one pound of meat; then take one pound of beef suet, which shred and chop very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, then add six ounces of panade (No. 125), with the suet, pound them well together; then add the veal, season with a little pepper, salt, and a very little grated nut¬ meg, mix the whole well together; then add three eggs by degrees, then the yolks of three more eggs when well mixed, whisk the whites of the three eggs to a very stiff froth, add APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES. 49 to the forcemeat, mix them well in, and it is ready to use where directed. To form this or the following forcemeats into large quenelles, have two silver tablespoons, fill one of them with the forcemeat, dip your knife in hot water with which smooth it over, then dip the other spoon into boiling water, and with it remove the forcemeat from the first spoon and slip it from that into a buttered saute pan, proceeding thus until you have as many as you require; then cover them with some second stock, and boil them about ten minutes, or until firm, and they are ready for use. Small quenelles are made in the same manner, only using teaspoons instead of tablespoons. No. 121. Forcemeat of Rabbits. Take the flesh of one or two young rabbits, according to the size, well pound and pass it through a wire sieve; then have ready boiled and cold a good veal udder, skin and pound it well, to a pound of the udder add six ounces of panada (No. 125), and one pound of the flesh of the rab¬ bits ; mix the same as the last, adding an eschalot finely chop¬ ped, to the seasoning, using three whole and three yolks of eggs, but omitting the whisked whites. No. 122. Forcemeat of Fowl. The best forcemeat is made entirely from the breasts of fowls, but should you have no use for the other parts the whole may be used. Take the flesh from your fowl as much as you require, pound it well and pass it through a fine wire sieve, form the flesh into a ball, then have a piece of panada (No. 125), half the size of the ball of meat, scrape some fat bacon, one ounce, in proportion to the pound of meat, and two ounces of fresh butter, put the butter, bacon, and pa¬ nada, into the mortar together, pound them well, then add the meat, mix all well together, season lightly, and add four whole eggs, mixing them one at a time, then drop a piece of 4 50 APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES. the forcemeat into a little boiling stock, to poach; if too tender, add the yolks of one or even two more eggs; but if, on the contrary, it should be too firm, a little white sauce (No. 7), added cold will rectify it; it is then ready for use. In giving the last three receipts I have introduced a dif¬ ferent method for each description of meat, although the same meat might be made into forcemeat by either process; for myself I give the preference to the former as directed for veal. No. 123. Forcemeat of Game. Proceed as in the last, only substituting the flesh of one or two birds for the fowl there directed. No. 124. Forcemeat of Wliitings. Take the fillets of three whitings, take off all the skin and pound them well, then take them from the mortar, and form them into a ball, have a piece of panada (No. 125) one third the size of the ball, put the panada into the mortar, pound it well, then add two ounces of fresh butter, which mix well with the panada, then add the fish, season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together, then add by de¬ grees three whole eggs and the yolks of two, try it in a little boiling water as directed for the forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), but if too firm use a little melted butter, as these are served ge¬ nerally as a meagre dish with a fish sauce, in Catholic families. No. 125. Fanada for forcemeats. Put two thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan hoi ding \a quart with nearly an ounce of butter, when boil¬ ing, stir in a quarter of a pound of flour; keep it moving over the fire until it forms a smooth and toughish paste, take it out of the stewpan and when cold use it where directed. No. 126. Forcemeat of Cod''s Liver. Chop half a pound of cod’s liver, with which mix a few APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES. 51 bread crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, form it into que¬ nelles as No. 120, which use where directed. No. 127. Veal Stuffing. Chop three quarters of a pound of beef suet very fine, which put into a basin with six ounces of bread crumbs, a little chopped parsley, thyme, and marjoram, with a bay-leaf mixed, when chopped, being sufficient to fill three large tablespoons; amalgamate the whole with the yolks of three and three whole eggs; this is likewise used to stuff baked fish or turkeys as well as veal. No. 128. To prepare Cockscombs. If you should have them in the rough as taken from the fowls, put them in lukewarm water *for three hours, then have some water boiling in a stewpan, into which throw them for one minute, then take them out, put them upon a rubber with a handful of salt, and rub them well until all the skin comes off, then put them into a basin of cold water for two or three hours, until they become quite white; by cutting off the tips of each they will disgorge much better; then (if about a pound of them) put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, an onion in slices, a little pepper and salt, place them over a fire one minute, then add the juice of a lemon ; stew them gently until quite tender, put them by in a basin and use where directed. No. 129. To boil Bice. Wash well in two separate waters a pound of the best Carolina rice; then have half a gallon of water boiling in a stewpan, into which throw your rice; boil it until about three parts done, then drain it upon a sieve, butter the interior of a stewpan in which put your rice, place the lid on tight and put it in a warm oven upon a trivet until the rice is 52 APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES. perfectly tender; serve it separate with currie or any other dish where directed. Prepared thus, every grain will be se¬ parate and quite white. No. 130. To blanch Maccaroni. Have half a gallon of water in a stewpan in which put two ounces of butter and an ounce of salt; when boiling throw in a pound of maccaroni, which boil until tender, being care¬ ful that it is not too much done, the time of boiling depends principally upon the quality, the Genoa maccaroni taking the longest time, and the Neapolitan the shortest, which last if too much done will fall in puree. No. 131. Croquettes de Pomme de Terre. Roast twelve fine potatoes; when done, take out the in¬ terior, which form into a ball; when cold put them into a mortar with a piece of butter half the size of the ball; pound them well together, season with a little salt, pepper, chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, mix them with the yolks of six and two whole eggs; then form them into croquettes about the size and shape of a large quenelle egg, and bread-crumb them twice over, and fry them to a light brown colour in a stewpan of hot lard, and serve as garni¬ ture where required. No. 132. Glaze. Make a good stock of veal or beef as directed for con¬ somme (No. 134), put the first and second stocks together in a large stewpan, the clearer the stock the better ; reduce it by boiling it fast, and when becoming rather thick pour it into a smaller stewpan, stir it over a sharp fire until it has reduced to a proper consistency; use it where required. It may be put by in a bladder and kept a long time. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kind of meat, game, or poultry, will produce more or less. 53 POTAGES OR SOUPS. No. 133. Clear light Broth, or first Stock. Cut up sixteen pounds of tlie trimmings of veal, beef, lamb, or mutton, any kind of meat will do for this stock, as it is entirely used for filling up other stocks, but it is only necessary to be made when you have a dinner party ; cut up the meat with the bones, rub a quarter of a pound of butter over the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, with six large onions, two carrots, two turnips, and two heads of celery; add a quart of water, then place the stewpan over a sharp fire, cover it, and let it remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light white glaze, stirring it occasionally to prevent its burning, then fill it up with seven gallons of cold water, when it boils place it at the corner, then add a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; let it simmer three hours, keeping it well skimmed, pass it through a cloth and use it where required. I have here omitted salt, for this stock is only required to fill up others, which correctly describe their pro¬ portions of seasoning. No. 134. Consomme, or clear Soup. This may be made of all beef or all veal, but an equal quantity of each is the best. Cut up two knuckles of veal and a leg of beef with the bones, the whole being about sixteen pounds; rub a quarter of a pound of butter over the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, with one pound of lean ham, four onions, four turnips, two mid¬ dling-sized carrots, six cloves, one blade of mace, and a pint of water; set it over a brisk fire, stirring it round occasion- 54 POTAGES. ally until the bottom is covered with a clear light glaze, then till it up with four gallons of light broth (No. 133), or water; when boiling place it at the corner of the stove, skim it well, add a good bunch of parsley, three sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of salt, two leeks, and two heads of celery; let it simmer three hours, skim off all the fat, then pass it through a cloth into a basin, give it the colour of light brown sherry with some brown gravy (No. 135), if sufficiently clear, which it will be if properly attended to. Some soups require to be lighter and some browner than others, which is easily regulated by adding more or less of the gravy. But by placing the stew- pan over a slow fire when the stock is drawn down to a glaze, and allowing it to remain a short time, the glaze will become brownish, (but be careful not to let it burn,) when fill it up and your consomme will be sufficiently coloured. But should it require clarifying , put it into a stewpan and when boiling have the whites of eight eggs with their shells in another stewpan, whisk them half a minute, then add a quart of cold stock, whisk all well together, then whisk the boiling consomme and pom 1 in the whites of eggs; still con¬ tinue whisking it over a clear fire until it simmers and the eggs separate from the consomme, which will be then quite clear; then pass it through a thin but very fine cloth into a basin and it is ready for use. This is a new mode of clari¬ fying and cannot fail. For the proportions for smaller quantities of consomme, to four pounds of veal put a quarter of a pound of ham, one ounce of butter, two onions, half a carrot, a turnip, half a leek, half a head of celery, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, three cloves, six peppercorns, an ounce and a half of salt and four quarts of water; it w ill require an hom* and three quarters boiling. Or if you have to prepare it from beef, veal, and the trimmings of other meats, and require a POTAGES. 55 larger quantity, take ten pounds of meat; to which add three onions, half a pound of ham, a carrot, two turnips, a leek, head of celery, two sprigs of parsley, thyme, and two bay-leaves, six cloves, six peppercorns, two ounces and a half of salt, a blade of mace, and ten quarts of water; it will require two hours and a half boiling; trimmings of rabbit, poultry, or even game, may be added, but not too much game, especially if at all high. You will here perceive that by increasing the quantity of stock there is a diminution in the quantity of seasonings and vegetables, for the larger quantity requiring a longer ebullition, extracts more flavour from the spices and vegetables; a stock for consomme by gently simmering will lose a pint and a half to every four quarts; I must here also observe that by again filling up a stock with cold water and boiling it the same time over again, you will have an excellent second stock, a little of which may be added to the first, if it should have suffered from over reduction, for vegetable soups are not so palatable when made too strong; the second stock is also very useful to fill up a first stock, whereby some of the meat otherwise required can be saved, and if not required for that it may be converted into glaze by mixing it with other stock and pro¬ ceeding as directed (No. 132). No. 135. Brown Gravy. Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, peel six large onions, cut them in three slices, lay them flat on the bottom of the stewpan which you have well buttered; take ten pounds of leg of beef, cut the flesh from the bone in large slices, lay it over the onions with the bones, which must be well chopped; add six cloves, two blades of mace, two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, one head of celery, and a tablespoonful of salt; put it over a brisk fire about ten minutes, shake the stewpan now and then, and when form- 56 POTAGES. ing a brown glaze at the bottom, cover the stove with ashes; set it on again, and let it remain half an hour, until it gets very brown (but not burning); pour the fat off, which must be very clear; if not, it is not ready to fill up; fill up with ten quarts of cold water; when boiling, let it simmer at the corner of the stove two hours; skim it well, pass it through a cloth, and use it when re¬ quired. Should any of the brown sauces, large or small, be too pale, use some of this gravy instead of consomme, as directed. No. 136. Pot age a la Victoria . Cut eight pounds of veal, four pounds of scrag of lamb, and one pound of lean ham in dice; butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with three onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and half a pint of broth (No. 7); place it over a slow fire, stirring it occasionally until the bottom is covered with a white glaze; then add eight quarts of light broth or water, and two ounces of salt; when it boils, place it at the corner of the stove for an hour; have ready peeled and washed four apples, eight artichokes, and two anchovies; put them in, and let them boil about an hour; afterwards pass it through a napkin; then put half a pint of pearl barley into a stewpan with the stock; when the barley has boiled quite tender mix three tablespoonfuls of arrow-root with a little cold broth, add it to the barley, pass the whole through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, and let it boil ten minutes; if it is too thick, add boiled milk to thin it. Season with half a tablespoonful of sugar, skim it well, have ready thirty cockscombs dressed as No. 128, and half a handful of picked parsley in small sprigs, and blanched; put the cockscombs, parsley, and a gill of good cream into the tureen, pour the soup in, mix well, and serve; the POTAGES. 57 barley must be done sufficiently to give the soup a light consistency. No. 137. Potage a la Louis Philippe. Make a stock exactly as for the potage a la Victoria, and instead of mixing barley, put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with three ounces of Horn'; stir it over a moderate tire about ten minutes, then let it cool; add the whole of the stock, stirring it all the time, until it boils; then put six tablespoonfuls of semolina into it, let it simmer at the corner of the stove until it is quite tender, rub it through a tanunie, boil it again • have ready scooped with a small cutter about eighty pieces of turnips, put them into a stew- pan with one ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, pass them over a moderate fire until half done, then throw them into the soup, and let them simmer until quite tender; season with a little salt, and when you serve it, put a gill of cream into the stewpan, mix well, and serve im¬ mediately ; strew a little chopped chervil, and about sixty heads of sprue grass in the tureen, or, if in season, add thirty small Brussels sprouts, boiled very green. No. 138. Potage a la Prince of Wales. Cut up twelve pounds of veal with the bones, two pounds of ham, two calves’ feet, with a few pieces of trimmings of game or poultry (if any, if not add two pounds more veal), butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat with six Jerusalem artichokes, two turnips, two onions, four leeks, one head of celery, and a bouquet garni; put about a pint of broth (No. 133) into the stewpan, place it over a brisk fire, stirring it every five minutes until the bottom is covered with white glaze, then add about ten quarts of light broth (No. 133), let it boil an hour, add five middle-sized apples, peeled and cored, with four anchovies, well washed; let 58 POTAGES. it simmer an hour and a half longer, skim it well, pass it through a napkin, and clarify as No. 134; cut eight small long fillets off the breast of a braised fowl, cover them all over with forcemeat (No. 122), have ready a paste-brush dipped in whites of eggs, smooth them over with it, lay them in a saute-pan, cover them with white broth as No. 133; they must simmer gently about ten minutes. Make a custard thus : get a set of fresh lamb’s brains, wash them well, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan, cut the brains in thin slices, and lay them in, seasoned with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; place them over a moderate fire until they become rather firm; put them by until quite cold, then break six eggs into a basin; beat them well, mix four spoonfuls of good broth, and a little pepper and salt with the eggs; pass it through a tarnmie into another basin, then mix a teaspoonful of chopped parsley with it; put some into a flat-bottomed mould about half an inch thick; steam it about two minutes; take it out, put a layer of brains upon the custard, and pour the remainder of the custard over; let it steam very quickly about half an hour, take it out, let it get rather cool, then cut your pieces of fowl and custard into middling sized pieces, diamond-shaped, about half an inch thick; have asparagus points cut and boiled in salt and water; put the asparagus, fowl, and custard into the tureen, and pour the stock very gently over, previously adding a tea¬ spoonful of sugar. This potage, though complicated, is very easily made with a little practice; it is entirely new, very stomachic and wholesome. It must be of the colour of light sherry. No. 139. Potage a la Comte de Paris. Cut in large dice six pounds of veal, six do. of leg of beef, two pounds of lean ham, highly flavoured, two calves’ feet, POTAGES. 59 two heads of white celery, four onions, one carrot, two turnips, three cloves, two blades of mace, and a handful of fresh parsley; put three tablespoonfuls of good salad oil into a stewpan, add the whole of the ingredients, place it over a quick fire, stir it ten minutes with a wooden spoon; then add half a pint of broth (No. 133); when the bottom is nearly dry, add ten quarts of broth, as before; when it boils, place it at the corner of the stove; skim as usual, add a tablespoonful of salt; have ready peeled and washed twelve Jerusalem artichokes, and six middle-sized apples cut in quarters, and the core taken out, which may be added when it has boiled an hour and a half; let it remain half an hour longer, then pass the stock through a napkin into a clean stewpan, replace it on the stove and clarify as No. 134. The acidity of the apples mil assist the clarification of the stock and give it the brightness of sherry. Take a spring chicken braised as No. 523, cut it in ten pieces, cover each piece all over lightly with forcemeat (No. 120), butter a saute-pan, lay them in it, have ready a paste brush dipped in whites of eggs, smooth each piece over with it, cover them with white broth (No. 133), and let them re¬ main simmering gently about a quarter of an hour, take them out of the broth and lay them on a cloth, have ready a little riband maccaroni blanched in salt and water, drain it upon a sieve, put it into the soup and let it boil a few minutes, put the pieces of fowl into the tureen, pour the soup over, (with the maccaroni in it), and serve. This soup requires to be of the colour of pale sherry. No. 140. Potage a la Princesse Poyale. Take all the meat off a roast fowl, pound it well in the mortar, put the bones to boil half an horn in three quarts of boiling stock (No. 7), peel six good cucumbers, cut them in slices; when this is prepared, put into a stewpan a quarter 60 POTAGES. of a pound of butter, two onions sliced, half a pound of lean ham, two bay-leaves, one branch of basil, and the cucumbers; place the whole over a brisk tire, pass them five minutes, add one pint of broth, let it simmer half an hour, then add the pounded fowl, two ounces of flour, and four spoonfuls of sago, mix the whole well with a wooden spoon, and pour the broth over it; let it boil about twenty minutes, then rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan and stir it over the fire until it boils; be care¬ ful it is not too thick, put into it a quart of boiling milk, and skim directly, add a good spoonful of sugar and as much salt as required; put twenty pieces of cucumber, as No. 103, into the tureen, half a pint of green peas nicely boiled, and half a gill of good cream, pour the soup over, mix well, and serve. This soup must not be too thick; in fact it is much better for all thick soups to be too thin than too thick, but to be correct dip a wooden spoon into it when quite hot and it should very lightly adhere to it. No. 141. Pot age a la Saxe Cobourg. Put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, half a pound of lean ham, and a large onion sliced very thin, pass it ten minutes over a slow fire; have ready, previously boiled, one hundred small Brussels sprouts, press the water from them, chop them fine, add them to the onions and butter, pass them five minutes over a brisk fire, add two table¬ spoonfuls of flour, mix well, add four quarts of good stock (No. 134), and a pint of boiled milk; boil it quickly ten minutes, stirring it all the time, season with a teaspoon¬ ful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and pass it through a tammie a quarter of an hour before serving; boil and skim well, it must not be thicker than green pea-soup; put some croutons in the tureen, with twenty very small quenelles de volatile (No. 120), and serve. POTAGES. 61 No. 142. Pot age a la Comtesse. Cut half a pound of lean ham, with one onion, in small dice, have a bouquet garni, and six ounces of butter; put the whole into a stewpan over a moderate fire, stirring it about ten minutes; then cut five or six throat sweetbreads in slices (which have been previously blanched in water), put them into the stewpan and add a pint of white broth; let it simmer nearly half an hour, add four tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pound it in a mortar, put it into the stewpan again, with about four quarts of veal stock (No. 7), set it over a brisk fire until it boils, season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper; rub it through a tammie; when you serve it add a gill of cream, and croutons, cut like sixpences, and fried in half butter and half oil. If too thick moisten it with more stock to make it of the consistency of a puree. No. 143. Potage a la Gresham. Cut two knuckles of veal and two pounds of ham in dice, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with three onions, one carrot, two turnips, two heads of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, basil, marjoram, and a pint of white broth (No. 133); let it simmer over a moderate fire about twenty minutes, then add twelve quarts more broth; when it boils have ready half a calf’s head which has been scalded; put it into the stewpan and let it simmer two hours and a half, when done put it on a dish to cool; pass the stock through a cloth into a clean stewpan, and place it over the fire; then mix half a pound of arrow-root, with three glasses of Madeira, and half a pint of cold broth ; when the stock boils add the arrow-root, stirring it all the time, (skim it well), about twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie; before serving cut about twenty pieces of the 62 POTAGES. calf’s head, (free from any fat), in large dice about an inch and a half square; put them in the tureen and pour the soup over. Add a little salt and sugar if required; this soup is very delicate, but better made too thin than too thick. No. 144. Potage a la Colbert. Peel and wash about a dozen Jerusalem artichokes, cut them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, lay them flat upon the table and cut them through with a cutter about the size of a large pea, wash two heads of celery well, cut them round like sixpences, peel fifty small button onions, and pass the whole in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar until no liquor remains with the vege¬ tables and they are covered with a glaze, keeping them quite white; if any liquor remains in your vegetables it will spoil the appearance of the soup ; put them into a clean stewpan with four quarts of consomme (No. 134), and half a pint of gravy (No. 135), let it simmer at the corner of the stove about ten minutes, taking care to skim it well, cut about forty pieces of cos lettuce the size of half-a-crown, which boil till done, cut twenty pieces of thin crust of French bread about the size of a shilling, which must be put into the tureen and the soup poured over. No. 145. Potage a la Clermont. Peel and cut thirty button onions into rings, fry them yellow in butter, cut also about sixty pieces of carrots, the size of a sixpenny piece, boil them in stock until nearly done, then put them on a sieve to drain, put four quarts of con¬ somme (No. 134), and a gill of brown gravy (No. 135), into a stewpan with two ounces of semolina, when boiling add the carrots and onions ; let it simmer twenty minutes, add a little pickled chervil, cut a small spring chicken in pieces, which has been previously braised (No. 523), put it into the 7 POTAGES. 63 soup a few minutes previous to serving, and a tablespoonful of sugar, add a little more seasoning if required. No. 146. Potage Macedoine de Legumes. Cut an equal quantity of carrots, turnips, celery, and Jeru¬ salem artichokes with a scoop cutter, as large again as a pea, pass them in sugar and butter, with about a dozen button onions; have ready four quarts of consomme (No. 134), put the vegetables into it, let it boil at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, add half a cabbage lettuce cut small, ten leaves of sorrel, a few leaves of tarragon and chervil (skim it well), add a little salt if required; serve a few green peas, or asparagus boiled very green, in the tureen with the soup; give it a beautiful colour with a little brown gravy (No. 135) if required. No. 147. Potage a la Jardiniere. Have ready the consomme clarified as previously, cut car¬ rots, turnips, and celery, in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, cut them through with a long cutter, add ten button onions, pass them in sugar and butter as usual, put them into four quarts of clarified consomme, let it simmer at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, or until the vege¬ tables are done, skim it well, add a small quantity of picked tarragon, chervil, and a few white leaves of a cos lettuce; season with a little salt if required; when done and ready to serve put into the tureen a few French beans, peas, cauliflower, or Brussels sprouts according to the season. No. 148. Potage a la Julienne. Prepare and clean three carrots, three turnips, two onions, two leeks, and one head of celery, wash them all well, cut the carrots an inch in breadth in thin slices, cut them again across into small thin strips, if the carrots are old the red part only 64 POTAGES. must be used and peeled off like ribands, as fine and regular as possible ; all the vegetables must be cut in the same way; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, when it is melted, put in the onions and fry them about three mi¬ nutes, then add the remainder of the vegetables,' and pass them quickly with a tablespoonful of sugar, toss them over every minute, when there is no water remaining at the bot¬ tom add to them four quarts of clarified consomme, let it boil gently at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, skim well, add six sorrel leaves, one cabbage lettuce, and a little picked chervil, the lettuce and sorrel must be cut in dice, serve very hot. If not sufficiently coloured add half a pint of gravy (No. 135). No. 149. Potage mixpetits Navets a brun. Peel ten fresh turnips, scoop as many as possible out of them with a small cutter, the size of a marble; put a tea¬ spoonful of sugar into a stewpan, when it gets rather brown over the fire, put in about two ounces of butter with the turnips, toss them over the fire until they get a nice yellow colour; have ready nearly boiling four quarts of consomme (No. 134), and half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), put them into it, let it simmer about twenty minutes, or until the turnips are tender, taking care to skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar if required; the consomme must be a little browner than usual. No. 150. Potage a la Printaniere. Cut a bunch of spring carrots, ditto of turnips, ditto of green spring onions, in thick pieces, splitting the carrots in four, and about half an inch in length, wash them well, dry on a cloth, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, have ready four quarts of consomme POTAGES. 65 (No. 134), nearly boiling, put in the vegetables and let it boil at the corner of the stove fifteen minutes, skim it well, add a very little chervil and half a pint of young peas, raw, when the peas are tender it is done; put a few French beans, cut in diamonds, into the tureen, and serve. No. 151. Pot age a la Jerusalem. Have ready two dozen artichokes peeled and washed, scoop them with a cutter, the size of a marble, pass them with butter and sugar over a moderate fire until they are quite dry, put them into four quarts of clarified consomme (No. 134), and let them simmer until tender, skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar if required; a little brown gravy (No. 135), may be added. No. 152. Potage a la Marcus Hill. Butter the bottom of a stewpan, take three or four pounds of the knuckle of veal, and half a pound of lean ham in dice, (in case you have no veal, beef or mutton may be used in¬ stead ;) add two onions, three carrots, two turnips, and half a pint of broth (No. 133), let it simmer on a brisk fire, stir it very often, when it forms a thick jelly at the bottom fill it up with a gallon of broth or water; it must simmer on the corner of the stove an hour, taking care to skim it well un¬ til reduced to three quarts, which will be sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Make a Chiffonade as follows :—Cut up four cabbage let¬ tuces, one cos ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little chervil, and tarragon, with two cucumbers finely sliced, the whole being well washed and drained on a colander; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and the chiffonade over it, place it over a brisk fire until very little liquid remains ; add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour, mixing it with the vegetables and stirring it well. Pour the stock over, adding a quart of 66 POTAGES. young fresh peas, skim it well; half an hour’s ebullition will suffice for this delicious soup, and the flavour of the vege¬ tables will be fully preserved; season with a teaspoonful of salt and two of sugar. No. 153. j Votage aux pointes cV Asp erg es et (Eufs poches. Poach ten new laid eggs in salt water and vinegar, rather hard, trim them, put them into the tureen, with half a pint of sprue grass, put three quarts of clarified consomme (No. 134) to boil; put into it for three minutes a fowl just roasted; when you take it out add twelve leaves of tarragon, skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar, pour it gently over the eggs, and be careful not to break them; your potage will have a most beautiful flavour of fowl, and the fowl will be as good as before for many made dishes. This soup must be of the colour of pale sherry. No. 154. Potage a la Brunoise. Cut two middle-sized carrots, two turnips, and four Jerusalem artichokes into thin slices, lay them separately upon a table and cut each piece through with a small dia¬ mond cutter ; add one head of celery cut in small diamond¬ shaped pieces, and about a dozen very small onions peeled; put altogether into a stewpan with three ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar; pass them over a brisk fire until the water from the vegetables is quite dried up, and the butter and sugar form a glaze over them; put them into a clean stewpan with four quarts of clarified consomme (No. 134); toast a piece of French bread very brown, but not burnt, put it into the soup five minutes without breaking ; when the vegetables are tender it is ready to serve; add about three tablespoonfuls of bixnvn gravy (No. 135), and put a few pieces of very white cauliflower into the tureen. POTAGES. 67 No. 155. Pot age a la Nivernaise. Cut an equal quantity of all kinds of vegetable in thin slices, lay them on the table and cut them through with a cutter the shape of a heart, pass them in butter and sugar, have ready four quarts of consomme (No. 134), blanch one ounce of Italian paste in salt and water, put it into the soup ten minutes before serving; skim well, add a little sugar, and put four large quenelles (No. 120) cut in slices, into the tureen. No. 156. Pot age a la Palestine. Cut two onions, half a pound of lean ham, one turnip, one head of celery, two bay-leaves and a sprig of thyme; put the whole into a stewpan with half a pound of butter, let it fry on a slow tire about twenty minutes (stirring it all the time), when forming a white glaze at the bottom, take it off the fire; have ready peeled and washed a dozen and a half of Jerusalem artichokes (if they are large, if small a larger quantity will be required) cut in thin slices; put them into the stewpan with half a pint of white broth (No. 133), let it simmer until tender; add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix the whole well together; add four quarts of good stock, and a pint of boiled milk; stir it until boiling, season with a tea¬ spoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, rub it through a tam- mie, boil it again and skim, fry croutons of bread (cut small) in butter; when ready to serve add a gill of cream and three yolks of eggs made in a liaison in the tureen, pour the soup over ; (if too thick add a little more stock); put in the crou¬ tons and serve. No. 157. Potage a la puree de Navets. Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, with two onions, one head of celery, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a bouquet garni, stir it over a 68 P0TAGES. moderate fire about ten minutes, then add half a pint of white broth (No. 183), with three pounds of turnips, peeled, washed and cut in thin slices; place them over a slow fire until they are quite tender; then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well together, add three quarts of broth, stir it until boiling, season with a little white pepper, and a tea¬ spoonful of salt, and two of sugar; skim it well, pass it through a tammie, boil it again, add a pint of boiled milk, skim it well ten minutes ; when you serve add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pour the soup in the tureen with small dice of fried bread. It must be rather thin. No. 158. Potage a la puree d’Asperges. Cut two fresh bundles of sprue grass, boil very quickly in salt and water until tender ; put four ounces of fresh but¬ ter into a stewpan with half a spoonful of chopped onions; when it is melted mix the sprue with it, then add three spoonfuls of flour, and four quarts of veal stock with one pint of boiled milk, let it boil five minutes, stirring it all the time; season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper; pass it through a tammie, boil it again in a clean stewpan ten minutes, and skim it well; serve half a pint of sprue grass nicely boiled in it. No. 159. Potage a la Crecy. Scrape, wash, and cut in thin slices, some carrots ; take three pounds and a half of the.red part only, lay them on a sieve to drain, put into a stewpan half a pound of lean ham, two onions, and one head of celery sliced, add half a pound of butter, three cloves, one blade of mace, pass it over a moderate fire twenty minutes, then add the carrots with one pint of white broth (No. 133), when quite tender add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, put four quarts of white POTAGES. 69 veal stock; let it simmer nearly an horn, skim it well, rub it through a tammie, boil it again, if too thick add a little more broth, put fried bread into the tureen, season with a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little salt and pepper if required. No. 160. Potage a la puree de Choufleur. Boil three large white cauliflowers in salt and water until quite tender, chop them very fine, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, one leek, one head of celery (in slices) a quarter of a pound of ham, and two bay-leaves, pass them ten minutes over a quick fire ; add the cauliflower, and three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, add three quarts of white stock, and one ditto of boiled milk; stir it until boil¬ ing, rub it through a tammie, boil and skim well; season with a teaspoonfvJ of sugar, half ditto of salt; finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream; pour the soup into the tureen, have a cauliflower boiled, and cut into twenty small sprigs, put them into the soup, but be sure not to break them. No. 161. Pot age ci la puree de Concombres. Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, slice two escha¬ lots, six Jerusalem artichokes, (if early in the spring, but they may be omitted,) half a pound of lean ham, and six cucumbers peeled very carefully, as the least green would give a bad flavour; stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes, then add the meat of hah a braised fowl (No. 523), well pounded, and three spoonfuls of flour, mix well; add three quarts of veal stock, and a quart of boiled milk, let it boil, keeping it stirred, rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, skim it well; season with one teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, have ready about twenty pieces of cu¬ cumber, stewed as (No. 103), put them into the tureen, add half a pint of good cream to the soup, and serve. It must not be too thick. 70 POTAGES. No. 162. Pot age a la puree de Pois verts. Cut a quarter of a pound of lean bacon in dice ; put it into a stewpan with a good bunch of green onions, ditto of parsley, a small piece of mint, a quarter of a pound of butter, and three quarts of very fresh peas, pour some cold water over, wash the peas well—in mixing the butter with them pour off all the water; place them over a brisk fire until they are quite tender, then pound them in a mortar, put back into the stewpan, add three tablespoonfuls of flour; (mix it well), and about four quarts of good broth; stir it until boiling, skim well; season with a teaspoonful of salt, three ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper, pass it through a tammie and boil again; when you serve it have ready some croutons (small dice of fried bread), put them in the tureen. Do not serve it too thick. No. 163. Clear Giblet Soup. Cut six pounds of knuckle of veal, with the bones, and one pound of lean ham in large dice, have three onions, two turnips, one carrot, two heads of celery, a bouquet garni, and a tablespoonful of salt; butter a stewpan lightly, put in the whole of the ingredients, add six cloves, two blades of mace, and half a pint of water; pass it over a brisk fire about twenty minutes, stirring every two or three minutes ; when there is a white glaze upon the spoon add eight quarts of broth (No. 133), or water; directly it boils place it at the corner of the stove, scald the giblets in boiling water five minutes, take them out, and cut them in joints, the giz¬ zard in four pieces; put them into the stock and let them simmer gently until they are quite tender, which will be about two hours and a half; take them out, pass the stock through a cloth, and clarify as (No. 134); have ready some carrots and turnips scooped with a small cutter, two POTAGES. 71 heads of celery cut in small dice, and passed in butter and sugar, put them into the soup, and let them boil gently until quite tender; skim well, season with a little salt and sugar; put the giblets, with some French beans or peas, into the tureen and pour the soup over. No. 164. Potage aux Queues de Bceuf (clair.) Cut six pounds of leg of beef in large dice, without bones, cut two ox tails in joints, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of ham, one carrot, one head of celery, four onions, two ounces of butter, half a pint of white broth (No. 133), six cloves, one blade of mace, and a tablespoonful of salt; pass it over a moderate fire half an horn, stirring it every five minutes; when getting a yellow glaze at the bottom put some ashes on the stove to slacken the fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, until the bottom is covered with a brown glaze, then add two gallons of cold water, start it on a quick fire, skim it, and let it simmer on the corner of the stove for two hours, or until the ox tail is quite tender; then take all the pieces of ox tail out and put them by until wanted; pass the stock through a napkin into a clean stewpan, have ready some vegetables cut like for jardiniere (No. 147), pass them in sugar and butter, put them into the stock, boil until quite tender; season with a little more salt if required, a tea¬ spoonful of sugar, and a little cayenne; ten minutes previous to serving add a bunch of parsley with a little thyme and bay-leaf, and the ox tails ; take out the parsley and serve very hot. No. 165. Potage aux Queues d’ Agneau. Cut six pounds of trimmings of lamb or veal, half a pound of ham, a large bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves and marjoram, three cloves, one blade of mace; put three tablespoonfuls of salad oil into a stewpan with the ingre¬ dients, and half a pint of white broth, cut six lamb’s tails in POTAGES. 72 joints an inch long, put them into the stewpan with one calf’s foot cut in pieces, pass it ten minutes over a brisk fire, then add six quarts of broth (No. 133), or water, and two ounces of salt, when boiling, skim well, and let it simmer on the corner of the stove about an horn*; take out the pieces of tails and pass the stock through a napkin into a stewpan, mix two ounces of arrowroot with a gill of cold broth, and a glass of Madeira, throw it into the boiling stock, stir well all the time, skim; season with two teaspoonfuls of sugar, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan ; put in the pieces of tail ten minutes before serving; be careful to take off any fat which may rise from them, add juice of a lemon and serve. No. 166. Potage aux Queues deveau (clair). Proceed exactly as in the last, but instead of lamb use veal, for stock, cut four calves’ tails in pieces half an inch long, allow more time to stew, being larger, but finish the same way. No. 167. Potage ala Buchesse. Cut eight pounds of veal, one pound of ham, and one calf’s foot in dice, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat with two onions, the peel of half a lemon, and half a pint of broth (No. 133); pass the whole over a brisk fire, until forming a white glaze, then add eight quarts of broth, or water, and half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), when boiling, let it simmer at the corner of the stove about two hours, boil a fowl in it, skim it well, pass through a tam¬ mie ; put two ounces of arrowroot into a basin, mix with half a pint of cold broth, add it to the boiling stock, skim well, boil twenty minutes, have ready a small spring chicken braised, when cold cut it in nice pieces, have ready also about forty small quenelles de volatile (No. 120), put them into the soup and serve. The fowl that you boil in the stock may be used instead of the chicken. POT AGES. 73 No. 168. Clear Grouse Sou/p. Cut six pounds of leg of beef in large dice, with two wild rabbits, and one pound of lean ham, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with two calf’s feet, two onions, four leeks, one carrot, two turnips, a bunch of thyme, mar¬ joram, bay-leaves, and parsley, a blade of mace, and six cloves all inclosed in the bunch; set the stewpan over a brisk fire, add one pint of broth (No. 133), stir it until forming a white glaze, then add eight quarts of water, and nearly a pint of brown gravy (No. 135); when boiling about an hour add the trimmings of three grouse which have been previously roasted underdone, (cut the fillets and legs in pieces and reserve for the tureen;) let it simmer one hour longer, pass through a napkin into a clean stewpan when near boiling, add an ounce of arrowroot mixed with two glasses of port wine and a little cold broth; season with a tablespoonful of salt and half ditto of sugar; boil twenty minutes, pour into your tureen over the grouse, and serve very hot. The above quantity would be sufficient for two tureens. No. 169. Clear Partridge Soup. Proceed exactly the same as in the last, being very parti¬ cular that the birds are young and not over done. No. 170. Clear Pheasant Soup. Prepare the soup as before, two young pheasants will be enough, but they must hang until full flavoured, or it would not taste of game. Where pheasants are plentiful some may be used instead of the rabbits. No. 171. Clear Woodcock Soup. Roast two or three woodcocks, well wrapped in paper, 74 POTAGES. underdone, let them cool, cut them in pieces like the grouse, put the trimmings into the soup, which must be the same as the grouse soup (No. 168); put the inside of the wood¬ cocks in the mortar, pound well, mix four ounces of force¬ meat (No. 122) with it, add one yolk of egg, take a knife, surround every part of the pieces with it, poach them gently in a saute-pan with a little stock, put them into the tureen and pour the consomme over. No. 172. Clear Hare Soup. Cut a young hare in small pieces, the legs in two pieces, ditto the shoulders, and the back in six pieces, put them in a stewpan with half a pound of lean ham cut in dice, half a pound of butter, eight cloves, two blades of mace, twenty peppercorns, fry the whole twenty minutes over a moderate fire; when the hare is getting firm throw over it an ounce of arrowroot, mix well, add six quarts of consomme (No. 134) and one of water, let it boil nearly two hours, or until the hare is done, which you may easily ascertain with a fork, if quite tender put into a small stewpan until wanted, pass the stock through a fine sieve; have ready four heads of good white celery washed, cut all the best part in dia¬ monds, pass them in butter and sugar, then add about a pint of the stock and simmer until tender, keeping it well skimmed; before serving add the celery, pieces of hare, one glass of port wine, quarter of a tablespoonful of salt, and one ditto of sugar; serve very hot, pouring it over some of the best pieces of hare which you have reserved for your tureen, nicely trimmed. No. 173. Potage clair a la Poissoniere. Prepare a good stock of eight pounds of veal, half a pound of ham, one carrot, one turnip, four onions, four cloves, two blades of mace, two heads of celery, and half a pint of broth ; POTAGES. 75 pass it over a brisk fire twenty minutes, when there is a white glaze at the bottom add two gallons of broth (No. 133) or water, and a tablespoonful of salt, then add a small cod’s head, let it simmer two horns, skim well, pass it through a cloth into a clean stewpan, put it again on the stove to reduce one third, have ready scalded and bearded foui- dozen of fresh oysters and a pint of muscles, fillet one sole, cut it in diamonds; quarter of an hour before serving dinner put into the soup the oysters, muscles, and fillets of soles, with half a handful of picked parsley; let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, add a little salt if required, and a teaspoonful of sugar with a little cayenne, and serve very hot. No. 174. Grouse Soup. Roast two or three grouse, take off all the flesh, reserving some of the fillets, which cut in thin slices and serve with the soup in the tureen; put the bones in a stewpan with two quarts of first stock (No. 133)—boil them half an hour —place the flesh into a mortar, pound it well, then put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices into a stewpan, wdth half a poimd of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, two bay-leaves, six peppercorns, and half a blade of mace; stir them five minutes over the fire, then add a pint of stock, and stew them until tender, when add the flesh of the birds and four ounces of flour; mix them well together, then add the stock from the bones, half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135) and some consomme (No. 134), making altogether five quarts, boil twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season with a little salt and a tablespoonful of sugar; pass it through a tammie, then put it into another stewpan, boil it again, skim well, pour it into a tureen in which you have put some croutons and the pieces of fillets; serve very hot. 76 POTAGES. No. 175. Pheasant Soup. Prepare this soup exactly as the last, but finishing with milk or cream, and omitting the brown gravy, as this soup must be kept white. No. 176. Partridge Soup. Roast four partridges, and proceed as in the last. No. 177. Hare Soup. Cut eight pounds of beef and veal, with about a pound of bacon, in large dice, have three onions, two turnips, two carrots, four bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, basil, and three heads of celery; butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat and vegetables with a pint of broth, place it over a moderate fire, cut the hare in pieces (rather small), put it into the stewpan, stir it every six minutes until it is covered with a brown glaze, then add three quarters of a pound of flour over the meat, mix well with eight quarts of broth (No. 133), and a pint of brown gravy (No. 135); let it simmer until the hare is quite tender, take it out of the stewpan, then trim about ten or twelve of the best pieces for the tureen, pull all the meat from the remainder, pound it well in the mortar and add it to the puree; pass it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, place it on the stove to boil again; mix the following ingre¬ dients in a basin, two tablespoonfuls of flour, eight ditto of port wine, half ditto of salt, a good pinch of cayenne pepper, one ditto of sugar, mix well with half a pint of cold broth (No. 133), add it to the soup when upon the point of boiling; stir it well, serve very hot; two heads of celery may be added cut small, passed in butter, and boiled until tender. POTAGES. 77 No. 178. Puree of all hinds of Game , mixed or separate. If you have any game from a previous dinner, whether pheasant, partridge, grouse, hare, wild rabbits, or any kind of game, take all the meat from the bones, put the bones in a stewpanto simmer with four quarts of consomme (No. 184) half an hour, pound the meat in the mortar very fine, put it into a clean stewpan with quarter of a pound of butter, half ditto of ham, two heads of celery cut thin, two eschalots, one carrot, one turnip, four cloves, and four peppercorns ; pass it over a slow fire twenty minutes, add half a pint of broth, with the meat, (which for that quantity of soup should be about two pounds), and three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pour the stock from the bones over, with half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), boil twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, if too thick add more broth season with a little salt and a spoonful of sugar; put some croutons in a tureen cut very thin of the size of a sixpenny piece, and crisp, if not ready to serve it must be kept hot in the bain marie; do not let it boil after it is passed, or it will curdle and have a bad appearance. No. 179. Giblet Soup. Prepare the stock exactly like the clear giblet (No. 163), instead of clarifying it put half a pound of butter into a stewpan with three quarters of a pound of flour, make a light-coloured roux, mix the stock with it, boil it about forty minutes, keeping it stirred, add a large bouquet garni, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, have ready about fifty small button onions, passed in butter and sugar, throw them into the soup and let them simmer until tender ; ten minutes before serving add a glass of Madeira, and the giblets (which you have well trimmed), season with a little salt and sugar if necessary. 78 POTAGES. No. 180. Potage ala Heine. Put a pint of rice into a basin, wash well in three waters, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, two minced onions, one turnip, one carrot, four Jerusalem arti¬ chokes, half a pound of lean bacon, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and a small bunch of parsley; pass the whole over a slow fire about fifteen minutes, taking care it is not the least brown; add three quarts of white stock (No.7) and the rice, let it simmer very gently until the rice is quite tender, have ready a fowl roasted, take all the meat off the bones and pound well in the mortar, put the bones in a stewpan with two quarts more stock, boil a quarter of an hour, add the meat to the rice and vegetables, and pound all well together, put it back into the same stewpan, add the broth from the bones, rub through a tammie, boil a quarter of an hour longer, season with a tablespoonful of sugar, skim well, put two yolks of eggs in a small basin, mix well with half a pint of cream and pass through a tam¬ mie ; two minutes previous to serving throw it in the soup, stir it in quickly, put some croutons in the tureen, add more stock if too thick and serve very hot. No. 181. Potage a la Pegente. Prepare your soup just as the above; have ready braised a spring chicken, cut in ten nice pieces; put it into the soup ten minutes to warm; put into the tureen four spoon¬ fuls of very green sprue grass, if in season, or green peas, or small Brussels sprouts, and pom 1 the soup gently over. No. 182. Soup Mulligatawny . Cut four onions, four apples, one carrot, two turnips, one head of celery, and half a pound of lean ham in slices; put them into a stewpan with half a pound of butter, pass P0TAGES. 79 it twenty minutes over a brisk fire, with four cloves, one blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, and a pint of broth (No. 133); let it simmer about twenty mi¬ nutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one do. of curry paste, and four do. of flour; mix the whole well together, with eight quarts of broth; when boiling, skim it, season with a teaspoonful of sugar, and salt if required; pass it through a tammie, serve with pieces of roast chicken in it, and boiled rice in a separate dish (No. 129.) It must not be too thick, and of a good yellow colour. No. 183. Potage Queues de Vecm a Mane. Make the stock and stew the calves’ tails precisely as No. 166, instead of clarifying it; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan with six ounces of flour; stir it over the fire about five minutes; let it cool, then mix the stock with it, stirring it well with a wooden spoon until it boils; then place it at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes; skim, add a bouquet garni, and a glass of madeira or sherry, pass it through a tammie; season with a spoonful of sugar, a little cayenne, and salt if required; put it into another stewpan upon the fire, and ten minutes before serving add half a pint of cream and the calves’ tails to warm. No. 184. Potage Queues de Veau a VIndienne. Put four quarts of mulligatawny soup (No. 182) into a stewpan, and a pint of consomme (No. 134); cut some vegetables as for julienne (No. 148), put ten tablespoonfuls of salad oil into a saute-pan; when hot, fry the vegetables in it, until rather brown; lay them on a sieve to drain, then add them to the soup, which is in ebullition; skim well, put about fifteen nice pieces of calves’ tail in it, and serve, with some dry boiled rice in a separate dish. 80 POTAGES. No. 185. Potage Tete de Veau a VIndienne. Proceed exactly as above, except, put pieces of cooked calf’s head cut in square pieces, instead of calves’ tail. No. 186. Potage Queues de Boeuf a VIndienne. Prepare the same stock as No. 184; put about twelve pieces of ox-tail, well stewed, as No. 164, into the soup ten minutes before serving. No. 187. Potage Queues de Boeuf a VAnglaise. Butter the bottom of a middling-sized stewpan, into which put six pounds of leg of beef, two ox-tails cut in joints, four onions, two heads of celery, two turnips, one carrot, ten peppercorns, a blade of mace, six cloves, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; then add half a pint of water, place it over the fire, stirring it round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze; then fill up the stewpan with eight quarts of first stock (No. 133), and two ounces of salt; when boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, skim it, and let it simmer until the pieces of ox-tails are perfectly tender, when take them out, and put them into a basin; then pass the stock through a cloth, in another stewpan, make a roux with half a pound of butter, and three quarters of a pound of flour; then add the stock, which should not exceed seven quarts; stir it over the fire until it boils, then add a salt-spoonful of cayenne, two glasses of port wine, and four heads of celery (cut fine and passed ten minutes, in butter, over a sharp fire,) let the soup simmer an hour at the corner; skim it well, and put by until wanted; this quantity is sufficient for two tureens, so when ready to serve, put half of it in a stewpan, with POTAGES. 81 ten pieces of the tails, and when qnite hot, pour it into your tureen. If too thick, add a little consomme. No. 188. Pot age aux Huitres. Blanch four dozen oysters until rather firm (they must not nearly boil) drain them on a sieve; save the liquor in which they are blanched. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted mix with it six ounces of flour; stir it over a slow fire a short time; after¬ wards let it cool, then add the liquor of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of good veal stock (No. 7); season as follows: a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, and half do. of essence of anchovy; strain it through a tammie; boil it again ten minutes, skim well; beard the oysters, and put them in the tureen; add a gill of cream to the soup, when it is served, and pom it over the oysters. No. 189. Potage aux filets de Soles. Put a quarter of a pound of butter, with six ounces of flour into a stewpan; make a white roux; when cold, mix well with two quarts of veal stock (No. 7), and one quart of milk; set it on the stove, stir until boiling; have ready filleted two very fresh soles; trim the fillets, and put the bones and trimmings into the soup, with four cloves, two blades of mace, two bay-leaves ; two spoonfuls of essence of anchovy, one do. of Harvey sauce, one do. of sugar, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and a little salt if required; skim well, pass through a sieve into a clean stew pan, boil again; put in ten small pieces of salmon cut half' an inch long, and a quarter do. wide; cut the fillets of the soles the same size, put them into the boiling soup with half a handful of picked parsley; boil ten minutes; finish with two yolks of eggs 6 82 POTAGES. and half a pint of cream mixed together; throw them into the soup. The pieces of soles are to be added five minutes before serving; the salmon may be omitted. No. 190. Potage a la Poissonniere. Blanch two dozen oysters, four dozen very fresh muscles, blanched and bearded; put a quarter of a pound of but¬ ter into a stewpan, with six ounces of flour, make a white roux; when cool, add the liquor of the oysters, muscles, and bone of the sole, with two quarts of broth, and three pints of milk; season with a spoonful of salt, one do. of sugar, a sprig of thyme, parsley, two bay-leaves, four cloves, and two blades of mace; pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, boil and skim well; cut about ten pieces of salmon into thin slices, half an inch long, a quarter do. wide; cut the fillet of the sole the same size; put all into the boiling soup, with half a handful of picked parsley, and a gill of good cream; put the oysters and muscles in the tureen and serve. No. 191. Potage (TAnguille. Bone two large eels from head to tail, cut the meat off in slanting dice the size of a teaspoon; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, to which add a quarter of a pound of flour; stir it over a moderate fire five minutes, let it cool, then add three quarts of good consomme (No. 134); when it boils throw in the bones of the eels, a small bunch of turtle herbs ; let it boil a few minutes; skim it well, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan ; put the raw eel into it, with two spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, one do. essence of anchovy, a quarter of a handfid of picked parsley, two glasses of port wine, a little salt and sugar; place it again over the fire, boil five minutes, skim, and serve. POTAGES. 83 No. 192. Potage cle Homarcl. - Take all meat from a hen lobster, break up the shell and small claws in a mortar, and put them into a stewpan, with five pints of consomme, place it at the corner of the fire to simmer half an hour; then mix the red spawn with a quarter of a pound of butter, as directed (No. 77); then put two onions, a piece of carrot, and half a turnip, in slices, into a stewpan, with a few sprigs of parsley and thyme, two bay-leaves, a blade of mace, four cloves, and a quarter of a pound of butter; stir them ten minutes over a mode¬ rate fire, then add the flesh of the lobster, previously well pounded, reserving a few slices for the tureen, and half a pint of second stock; boil it a minute, then add a quarter of a pound of flour; mix it well, and moisten with the stock from the shells which strain into it; season with a little cayenne pepper and essence of anchovies; boil it five minutes, then rub it through a tammie, and put it into a clean stewpan; let it boil ten minutes at the corner of the fire, skim it well, and when upon the point of serving, stir in the quarter of a pound of lobster butter; do not let it boil afterwards; pour it into the tureen over the fillets of lobster, and serve very hot. This soup requires to be quite a red colour. No. 193. Potage a la Chanoinaise. Make a white roux of a quarter of a pound of butter and six ounces of flour; add five pints of white consomme (No. 134) and three pints of milk • when boiling, skim well: add three tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy, two do. of Harvey sauce, a bunch of thyme, parsley, bayleaf, half a spoonful of salt, do. of sugar, and a little cayenne pepper; pass through a tammie; have ready the soft roes of three mackarel, cut in square pieces, and passed in butter, 84 POTAGES. as directed (No. 382); throw them in the soup; have ready likewise twenty small quenelles of fish (No. 124); finish with two ounces of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 79) in which you have introduced a little chopped tarragon; put the whole into the soup five minutes previous to serving; add the juice of a lemon. No. 194. Pot age Pate d’ltalie. Put four tablespoonfuls of various shaped small Italian paste in a quart of boiling water, with a little salt in it, boil it a few minutes ; put it on a sieve to drain ; have about three quarts of clarified consomme (No. 134), quite boiling; put the paste into it, and boil a quarter of an hour; it must be of a pale sherry colour; consomme of fowl is the best for this kind of potage; season with a little salt and sugar. A piece of good glaze may likewise be introduced. No. 195. Potage au Vermicelle. Put three quarts of consomme to boil, throw in a good handful of vermicelli; let it simmer gently about fifteen minutes; season with salt and a little sugar. No. 196. Potage a la Semoule. Put about six tablespoonfuls of semoulina into three quarts of consomme (No. 134); when it boils, set it at the corner of the stove to simmer about twenty minutes; season with a little salt and sugar; serve very hot. No. 197. Potage au Biz. Steep half a pint of rice (previously well washed) in boil¬ ing water five minutes, drain it on a sieve, put it into three quarts of boiling consomme (No. 134), let it simmer half an hour; when the rice is quite done, but not in puree, it is quite ready to serve, with the addition of a piece of glaze POT AGES. 85 and a little sugar if required. The consomme must be very strong for this soup. No. 198. Potage au Macaroni. Boil twenty sticks of macaroni in two quarts of water where you have put salt, and a piece of butter; when tender, cut each stick in three pieces; have ready three quarts of consomme (No. 134) put the macaroni in, simmer twenty minutes; and serve with grated Parmesan cheese separate. No. 199. Potage au Macaroni en rubands. Prepare and serve as above, but using the tape macca- roni instead of the other, and only blanching it five minutes in the water. No. 200. Turtle Soup. This soup, the delight of civic corporations, the friend of the doctors, and enemy of the alderman, has been, and per¬ haps ever will be, the leading article of English cookery. Its great complication has rendered it difficult in private esta¬ blishments ; I shall here, however, simplify it so as to render it practicable. Make choice of a good turtle, weighing from one hundred and forty to one hundred and eighty pounds, hang it up by the hind fins securely, cut off the head and let it hang all night, then take it down, lay it upon its back, and with a sharp knife cut out the belly, leaving the fins, but keeping the knife nearly close to the upper shell; take out the interior, which throw away, first collecting the green fat which is upon it, then remove the fins and fleshy parts, leaving nothing but the two large shells, saw the top shell into four and the bottom one in halves; then put the whole of the turtle, including the head, into a large turbot kettle, and cover them with cold water, (or if no kettle large enough blanch it in twice), place it upon a sharp fire and let 86 POTAGES. boil five minutes, to sufficiently scald it, then put the pieces into a tub of cold water, and with a pointed knife take off all the scales, which throw away, then take out carefully the whole of the green fat, which reserve, place the remainder back in the turbot kettle, where let it simmer until the meat comes easily from the shells and the fins are tender, then take them out and detach all the glutinous meat from* the shells, which cut into square pieces and reserve until re¬ quired. Fricandeau and a few other entrees were sometimes made from the fleshy parts, but the stringy substance of that mock meat is not worth eating, and few stomachs can digest it. The Stock .—For a turtle of the above size (which is con¬ sidered the best, for in comparison with them the smaller ones possess but little green fat,) cut up sixty pounds of knuckles of veal, and twenty pounds of beef, with six pounds of lean ham ; well butter the bottom of three large stewpans, and put an equal proportion of meat in each, with four onions, one carrot, twenty peppercorns, ten cloves, two blades of mace, an ounce of salt, and a pint of water; place them upon sharp fires, stirring them round occasionally until the bottom of each is covered with a brownish glaze, when fill them up with the water in which you blanched the turtle, taking more water if not sufficient; when boiling place them at the corners of the fires, let them simmer two lioms, keep¬ ing them always well skimmed; then pass the stock through a fine cloth into basins to cool. The stock after being drawn down in the three separate stewpans, may be tinned into a large stock pot, but my reason for doing it in smaller quantities is, that it requires less ebullition, and conse¬ quently the aroma of the different ingredients is better pre¬ served ; after having passed the stock, fill them up again with water, let them simmer four hours, when pass it and convert it into glaze as directed (No. 132). POT AGES. 87 The Soup .—Put three pounds of butter into a large stew- pan with ten sprigs of winter savory, ten of thyme, ten of basil, ten of marjoram, and ten bay-leaves ; place it a few minutes over a moderate fire, but do not let it change colour, then mix in four pounds and a half of flour to form a roux, which keep stirring over the fire until it becomes lightly tinged, when take it off the fire and stir it occasion¬ ally until partly cold, then add the stock which should amount to ten gallons, place it again over the fire and stir it until boiling, then place it at the corner, let it simmer two hours, keeping it well skimmed, then pass it through a tarn, mie into a clean stewpan, add the pieces of turtle, place it at the corner of the fire and let it simmer until the meat is nearly tender, when add the green fat, and let it remain upon the fire until the meat is quite tender, add a little more salt if required, and put it by in basins until ready for use ; when ready to serve warm the quantity required, and to each tureenful add half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and a quarter of a pint of Madeira wine; serve a lemon separate. To make soup of a smaller sized turtle you must of course reduce the other ingredients in proportion. The remains of the soup put in jars will keep a considerable time. No. 201. Clear Turtle Soup. Is now perhaps held in the highest estimation among real epicures, and when artistically prepared is indeed worthy the name of a luxury; it is easier digested and does not clog the palate so much as when made thick, indeed a pint of this soup may be taken before a good dinner (with the assistance of milk punch not too much iced or too sweet) where half a pint of the other might spoil the remainder of your dinner. I shall here describe it in that simple man¬ ner which will render it easy for any cook not only to un¬ derstand but to do it well. Prepare the turtle precisely as 88 POTAGES. in the last, as also the stocks, merely filling them up when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze instead of brown, thus keeping the stock white and very clear; when done, pass them through a cloth into a clean stewpan, place it over the fire and reduce it one third, hav¬ ing previously thrown in a bunch containing ten sprigs of winter savory, ten of marjoram, ten of thyme, ten of basil, and ten bay-leaves, then mix three quarters of a pound of the best arrow root with a quart of cold stock and a pint of wine, (sherry), pour it into the boiling soup, keeping it stir¬ red five minutes, then pass it through a cloth into another stewpan, add the pieces of meat from the turtle and proceed as for the thick turtle, but omitting the cayenne; this soup ought to be quite clear and of a greenish hue. No. 202. Mock Turtle Soup. Put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large stewpan, then cut up twenty pounds of knuckles of veal in large dice, with two pounds of uncooked ham; put them into a stewpan with six onions, two carrots, two heads of celery, twenty peppercorns, two blades of mace, two ounces of salt, and a pint of water; set it over a sharp fire, stirring it round occasionally until the bottom of the stew¬ pan is covered with a light brown glaze, then lay in the half of a scalded calf’s head, the cheek downwards, and fill up the stewpan with fourteen quarts of water ; when boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, where let it simmer two hours and a half, keeping it well skimmed, but taking out the half head as soon as it becomes flexible to the touch, (which will take about the time the stock requires to simmer), remove all the bone and press the head flat be¬ tween two dishes until cold, then pass the stock through a cloth into a basin, put a pound of butter into another stew¬ pan, with four sprigs of winter savory, four of thyme, four POTAGES. 89 of marjoram, four of basil, and four bay-leaves, fry them a few minutes in the butter, but do not let it change colour, then mix in a pound and a half of flour, stir it a few mi¬ nutes over the fire until becoming slightly tinged, take it from the fire, stirring it round occasionally mitil partly cold, when pour in the stock, place it again upon the fire, keep¬ ing it stirred until it boils, then place it at the corner and let it simmer for half an hour, keeping it well skimmed, season with a little cayenne pepper, and more salt if re¬ quired, and pass it through a tammie into a basin until wanted. When the calf ’s head is cold take off all the meat and fat, leaving nothing but the glutinous part, which cut into pieces an inch square ; when ready to serve the soup put about three quarts (to each tureen), into a stewpan with twenty of the pieces of head and a glass of sherry, boil alto¬ gether fifteen minutes, when skim and serve very hot. This soup may 1 ike wise be thickened without a roux, as directed for brown sauce (No. 4). Forcemeat and egg-balls were formerly served in this soup, the latter in imitation of tur¬ tles’ eggs, but better imitations of bullets, and almost as in¬ digestible ; the omission of them will, I am certain, prove beneficial, for whether the stomach be strong or delicate it will not bear loading with ammunition of that description. The above soup requires to be a light brown colour, and for thickness it must adhere lightly to the back of the spoon. 90 METHOD OF CLEANING SALT-WATER EISH. Turbot. Take the gills out carefully, and make an incision close to the head (on the back of the fish) from which take out the inside, and wash it well with salt and water. Observe that the middle-sized fish are the best; if too large, they sometimes eat tough and thready • this fish is better kept a day or two after it is caught, particularly in winter. Brill. Take the scales off the belly, and proceed the same as for turbot, but cut off the fins. John Dory. Cut off the fins, take out the gills, and open the fish at the breast, from whence take out the inside; wash it but as little as possible. The liver of this fish is very delicate; but cannot be obtained except by parties living near where they are caught, as it dissolves in a very short time if kept. Cod-fsh. Cut and pull out the gills, then open the belly and take out the inside; wash it in spring water, if this fish is re¬ quired crimped, you must clean it before it is quite dead (that is to say, whilst life remains in the muscles of the fish); POISSONS. 91 cut it up in slices three inches in thickness, and lay them in spring water for a quarter of an hour; or if the fish is wanted to be served whole, merely cut incisions upon each side to the bone, about two inches apart, and lay it in spring water three quarters of an hour. Whitings. Cut out the gills, and open the belly; wash them and cut off the fins; if for frying, cut off* the flaps under the neck of the fish, then pass your knife lightly from the head to the tail, down the back, merely cutting through the skin; then detach the skin at the head, and pull it all off one side together, and then the other; then put the tail into the mouth, and run a peg through the nose and tail, to keep it in that position. Haddocks Are cleaned in the same manner as whitings, but not skinned or trussed, as they are seldom fried. Salmon. Cut out the gills, open the belly, and take out the inside, which wash lightly; scrape off the scales, and cut it in slices, or serve whole; if it is to be crimped, you must let the scales remain ; crimp it in the same manner as cod-fish. Clean salmon-trout in the same way as salmon. Soles. Take out the gills, and make a small opening in the belly of the fish; take out the interior, leaving the roe; then de¬ tach the skin of the back at the head; pull it all off the fish together, and cut off the fins. POISSONS. 92 \ Mackerel. Cut the gills, and pull them out carefully, so that the inside of the fish comes with them; wipe it well, cut off the fins, and trim the tail. Red Mullets. Scale them very lightly, or you will destroy all the bloom ; pull out the gills, and part of the inside will come with them. Gurnets. Scrape off all the scales, cut the fins off close, pull out the gills, open the bellies, and take out the inside; wash it well, and scrape the parts where the blood rests, or when cooked it will look like a bruise. Herrings. Scrape them, pull out the gills, and the inside with them, leaving the roe unbroken; wipe them well. Smelts. This fish is so very delicate, that it requires every atten¬ tion in cleaning them : pull out the gills, and the inside will come with them; wipe very lightly. METHOD OF CLEANING FRESH-WATER FISH. Carp. Have a sharp-pointed kitchen knife, put the point care¬ fully under the scales (between the scales and the skin); at POISSONS. 93 the tail of the fish pass the knife gently up the back to the head, dividing the scales from the skin carefully; you may then take off the whole of the scales in one piece from each side, and your fish will look very white; (most cooks are acquainted with this mode, but should it be too difficult for some, they can scrape it in the common way; it will not look so white, but will eat equally good;) then make a small incision in the belly, close to the bladder; pull out the gills with a cloth, and the inside with them; but if any remains, take it out of the incision, but be careful not to disturb the roe or break the gall; lay it in spring water half an hour to disgorge; dry it with a cloth. Pike. Take off the scales as you would a carp; make two in¬ cisions in the belly, a small one close to the bladder, and a larger one above; pull one of the gills at the time with a strong cloth, and if the inside does not come with them, take them out of the incisions, and wash it well; the cutting of the fins is a matter of taste, but it is usually done. Trout Are sometimes served with the scales on, but they are usually taken off; clean like salmon. Tench Are very difficult fish to clean; the best way is to form them in the shape of the letter S, and instead of scraping them from the tail to the head, like other fish, scrape up¬ wards from the belly to the back with an oyster knife, the scales running that way; take out the gills, open the belly, take out the inside, and wash it clean. 94 POISSONS. Perch Are very difficult to scrape; they must be done almost alive: form the fish like an S, and scrape it with an oyster- knife; open the belly and take out the inside; pull out the gills, and wash well; when large, they are often boiled with the scales on, and they are taken off afterwards, which is much easier; but it depends upon how they are to be cooked. Pels. Kill them by knocking their heads upon a block or any¬ thing hard; then take the head in your hand with a cloth, aud just cut through the skin round the neck, and turn it down about an inch; then pull the head with one hand and the skin with the other, it will come off with facility; open the belly and take out the inside; cut off the fins and those bristles that run up the back; if the eel is large and oily, hold it over a charcoal fire, moving it quickly all the while; but the small ones will not require it. Nothing is harder to kill than eels ; and it is only by killing, or rather stunning them in the manner above described that they suffer the least. Lampreys Are cleaned in the same manner as eels, but do not re¬ quire skinning. 95 POISSONS. No. 203. Turbot, to boil. A turbot must be well rubbed over with salt and lemon before it is put in the water; have ready a large turbot- kettle half full of cold water, and to every six quarts of water, put one pound of salt, lay the fish in and place it over a moderate fire; a turbot of eight pounds may be allowed to simmer twenty minutes or rather more, thus it Avill be about three quarters of an hour altogether in the water; when it begins to crack very slightly, lift it up with the drainer and cover a clean white napkin over it; if you in¬ tend serving the sauce over your fish, dish it up without a napkin; if not, dish it upon a napkin and have ready some good sprigs of double parsley to garnish it with, and serve very hot. No. 204. Turbot a la Creme. Cook the turbot as above and dish it without a napkin, (but be careful that it is well drained before you place it on the dish, and absorb what water runs from the fish with a napkin, for that liquor would spoil your sauce, and cause it to lose that creamy substance which it ought to retain; this remark applies to all kinds of fish that is served up with the sauce over it); then put one pint of cream on the fire in a good sized stewpan, and when it is nearly simmering add half a pound of fresh butter, and stir it as quickly as possible until the butter is melted, but the cream must not boil; then add a liaison of three yolks of eggs, season with a little salt, pepper, and lemon juice, pom as much over the turbot as will cover it, and serve the remainder in a boat; or if not approved of, dish the fish on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve the sauce in a boat. This sauce must not be made until the moment it is wanted. 96 POISSONS. No. 205. Turbot Sauce homard. Cook the turbot as before, then take an ounce of lobster spawn and pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, rub it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon upon a plate, have ready a pint of good melted butter nearly boiling, into which put the red butter, and season with a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, a little Harvey sauce, cayenne pepper, and salt, then cut up the flesh of the lobster in dice and put in the sauce; serve it in a boat very hot. No. 206. Turbot a la Hottandaise. Cook the turbot as before, and dish without a napkin; then put the yolks of four eggs in a stewpan with half a pound of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, half a teaspoon¬ ful of salt and a quarter of one of white pepper; set it over a slow fire stirring it the whole time quickly; when the butter is half melted take it off the fire for a few seconds, (still keeping it stirred), till the butter is quite melted, then place it again on the fire till it thickens, then add a quart of melted butter, stir it again on the fire, (but do not let it boil, or it would curdle and be useless), then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, make it hot in the bain marie, stirring all the time pom it over the fish or serve in a boat. The sauce must be rather sharp, add more seasoning if required. No. 207. Turbotd la Mazarine. Cook the fish as above, then have all the spawn from two fine hen lobsters; if not sufficient get some live spawn from the fishmonger’s, making altogether about two ounces, pound it well in the mortar and mix it with half a pound of fresh butter, rub it through a hair sieve, place it upon POISSONS. 97 ice until firm, then put it in a stewpan with the yolks of four eggs, a little pepper, half a teaspoonful of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, place it over the fire and proceed as for the sauce Hollandaise, adding the same quantity of melted butter, and two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovy, pass it through a tammie into a clean stew- pan to make it hot, dish the fish without a napkin, soak¬ ing up the water in the dish with a clean cloth, and pom the sauce over it; be careful the sauce does not boil or it will curdle. This dish is one of the most elegant, and is the best way of dressing a turbot, for I have always remarked that not¬ withstanding its simplicity, it has given the greatest satis¬ faction, both for its delicateness and appearance, causing no trouble only requiring care. No. 208. Turbot en matelote Normande. Procure a smallish turbot, one weighing about ten pounds would be the best, cut off part of the fins and make an in¬ cision in the back, butter a saute-pan, (large enough to lay the turbot in quite flat), and put three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, three glasses of sherry or Madeira, half a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and about half a pint of white broth into it, then lay in the turbot and cover it over with white sauce (No. 7), start it to boil over a slow fire, then put it into a moderate oven about an hour, try whether it is done with a skewer, if the skewer goes through it easily it is done, if not, bake it a little longer, then give it a light brown tinge with the salamander, place the fish upon a dish to keep it hot, then put a pint of white sauce in the saute-pan and boil it fifteen minutes, stirring it all the time, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, and add a little cayenne pepper, two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, two dozen of oysters, (blanched), two 7 98 POISSONS. dozen of small mushrooms, two dozen quenelles (No. 120), six spoonfuls of milk, and a teaspoonful of sugar, reduce it till about the thickness of bechamel sauce, then add eight tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice of a lemon, pour over the turbot; have ready twenty croutons of bread cut trian¬ gularly from the crust of a French roll, and fried in butter; place them round the dish and pass the salamander over it and serve. No. 209. Turbot en Matelote vierge. Boil a turbot as before, dish it up without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce; chop two onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with four glasses of sherry, a sole cut in four pieces, two cloves, one blade of mace, a little grated nutmeg, some parsley, and one bay-leaf; boil altogether five minutes, then add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), boil twenty minutes stirring all the time, then put a tammie over a clean stewpan, and colander over the tam- mie, pass the sauce, take the meat off the sole and rub it through the tammie with two spoons into the sauce, add half a pint of broth, boil it again until it is rather thick, season with a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and finish with half a pint of cream whipped, mix it quickly and pour over the fish; garnish with white- bait and fried oysters (that have been egged and bread- crumbed,) or, if there is no white-bait, smelts will do. No. 210. Turbot ala Beligieuse. Dress the turbot as before, and cover with Hollandaise sauce (No. 66); chop some Tarragon chervil, and one French truffle, which sprinkle over it; garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in four lengthwise and laid round. POISSONS. 99 No. 211. Turbot ala Creme {gr aline). Put a quarter of a pound of flour in a stewpan, mix it gently with a quart of milk, be careful that it is not lumpy, then add two eschalots, a bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme tied together, for if put in loose it would spoil the colour of your sauce, (which should be quite white,) then add a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, place it over a sharp fire and stir it the whole time, boil it till it forms rather a thick- ish paste, then take it off the fire and add half a pound of fresh butter and the yolks of two eggs, mix them well into the sauce and pass it through a tammie, then having the remains of a turbot left from a previous dinner, you lay some of the sauce on the bottom of a dish, then a layer of the turbot, (without any bone,) season it lightly with pep¬ per and salt, then put another layer of sauce, then fish and sauce again until it is all used, finishing with sauce; sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs and grated Par¬ mesan cheese; put it in a moderate oven half an hour, give it a light brown colour with the salamander and serve it in the dish it is baked on. No. 212. Turbot a la Poissoniere. Boil a turbot as before, and take it up when only one third cooked, then put in a large saute-pan or baking sheet forty button onions peeled and cut in rings, two ounces of butter, two glasses of port wine, the peel of half a lemon, and four spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, then lay in the turbot and cover with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), set it in a slow oven for an hour, then take it out and place it carefully on a dish, place the fish again in the oven to keep hot, then take the lemon peel out of the sauce and pour the sauce into a stewpan, reduce it till rather thick, 100 POISSONS. then add twenty muscles, (blanched), twenty heads of mush¬ rooms, and about thirty fine prawns ; when ready to serve add one ounce of anchovy butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little cayenne pepper, stir it in quickly but do not let it boil; pour the sauce over the fish and serve very hot. No. 213. Turbot a la Creme (TAnchois. Boil the turbot and dish it without a napkin, then pour the following sauce over it and serve immediately: put a quart of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire and when nearly boiling add six ounces of anchovy butter (No. 78), and four spoonfuls of whipped cream, mix it quickly but do not let it boil; when poured over the fish sprinkle some chopped capers and gherkins over it. No. 214. Small Turbot a la Meuniere. Crimp the turbot by making incisions with a sharp knife, about an inch apart, in the belly part of the fish, then rub two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and four of salt into the incisions, pom a little salad oil over it and dip it in flour, then put it on a gridiron a good distance from the fire—the belly downwards—let it remain twenty minutes, then turn it by placing another gridiron over it, and turn¬ ing the fish over on to it, place it over the fire for about twenty-five minutes, or longer if required; when done place it upon a dish and have ready the following sauce : put six ounces of butter in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of melted butter, place it over the fire, moving the stewpan round when very hot, but not quite in oil, add a liaison (No. 119) of two yolks of eggs, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon, mix it quickly and pour over the fish; serve di¬ rectly and very hot. The fish must be kept as white as possible. For the above purpose the turbot should not ex¬ ceed eight pounds in weight. POISSONS. 101 No. 215. Turbot augrcitin a la Provencple. This dish, is made from fish left from a previous dinner ; put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and two of chop¬ ped mushrooms into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of salad oil; place it over a moderate fire five minutes, stirring it with a wooden spoon; then add three pints of brown sauce (No. 1), and reduce it one third, then add a clove of scraped garlic, a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one of essence of anchovy, a little sugar, a little cayenne, and two yolks of eggs, pour a little sauce on the dish you serve it on, then a layer of fish lightly seasoned with pepper and salt, then more sauce and fish again, finishing with sauce, sprinkle bread crumbs over it and place it in a moderate oven half an hour, or till it is very hot through, brown it lightly with the salamander and serve very hot. The gar¬ lic may be omitted if objected to, but it would lose the flavour from which it is named. No. 216. Brill au naturel. This fish though not so much thought of as turbot is very delicate eating, and being cheaper may be more freely used for fillets, &c., and may be recommended cooked in the following ways:—Boil a brill as you would a turbot, but the flesh being softer than that fish you put it in boil¬ ing water; if the fish weighs from four to five pounds put it into six quarts of water in which there is one pound of salt, draw the kettle to the corner of the fire and let it sim¬ mer for half an hour, try whether it is done as you would a turbot, drain it and dish it on a napkin; garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce (No. 73). No. 217. Brill a la puree de Capres. Take a very fresh fish, and an hour before cooking rub a 102 POISSONS. good handful of salt on it, then boil it as before, dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce:— put a pint and a half of melted butter into a stewpan, then have ready prepared three tablespoonfuls of capers, and two of gherkins, with a little boiled spinach pounded in a mor¬ tar with four ounces of fresh butter, and passed through a hair sieve, and when the melted butter is nearly boiling stir it quickly into it; finish it with a little essence of anchovy, a little cayenne pepper, and a little sugar, and pour over the fish when ready to serve. The butter requires to lay upon ice until quite hard. No. 218. Brill a la Hollandaise. Boil the fish as above and proceed as for turbot a la Hol¬ landaise ; see that article. No. 219. Brill aux Cdpres. Boil the fish and put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire and when nearly boiling mix two ounces of fresh butter and three tablespoon¬ fuls of capers with a little pepper and salt, dish on a napkin and pour the sauce over or serve in a boat. No. 220. Brill a la Meuniere. Proceed as for Turbot a la meuniere, (No. 214,) allowing sufficient time according to the size of the fish. No. 221. Brill sauce Homard. Proceed as for turbot sauce homard, (No. 205.) No. 222. Brill a la Billingsgate. Broil the fish as for brill a la meuniere and dish it with¬ out a napkin ; then have ready the following sauce;—blanch a pint of muscles, beard them and take out the black spots, POISSONS. 103 then put two chopped eschalots in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, pass it over the fire five minutes, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix with it the liquor from the muscles, half a pint of milk, and half a gill of cream, a saltspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and some grated nutmeg, boil it until rather thick, pass it through a tammie, then add two pats of butter, a few drops of essence of an¬ chovy and the muscles; pour over the fish and serve very hot. No. 223. Brill au gratin. See turbot a la creme gratine (No. 211,) and proceed in the same manner. No. 224. Brill a la creme (TAnchois. Proceed as for turbot a la creme d’anchois (No. 213.) No. 225. Filets de Brill ala Juive. Fillet a brill by passing a good knife from the head to the tail of the fish close to the middle bone, hold your knife in a slanting direction keeping it close to the bone (without cutting the bone) until you reach the fins, proceed in like manner until you have got off all the meat from the bones, then cut each fillet in halves, or in four pieces if they are large, egg and bread-crumb each piece, then dip them in clarified butter and again bread¬ crumb them; when ready fry them of a yellowish brown in salad oil, dish them upon a napkin, and have a good lot of fried parsley, which place in the middle, dishing your fillets round it, serve with a sauce Hollandaise (see Turbot a la Plollandaise, No. 206,) in which you introduce a tablespoon¬ ful of the best salad oil. To fry fish in oil you merely re¬ quire to cover the bottom of your saute-pan and let it get very hot before yon put the fish in it. 104 POISSONS. No. 226. Filets de Brill enmutelote. Fillet and fry the fish as above, dish it on a border of mashed potatoes, and place the following sauce in the centre:—peel about forty button onions, and pass them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a little sugar; when of a light brown colour add two tablespoonfuls of wine, set it on the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce and eight tablespoonfuls of stock, set it on the corner of the fire to boil forty minutes, skim it, then add twenty quenelles (No. 120), twenty heads of mushrooms, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, one of Harvey sauce, and one of mushroom catsup, with a little cayenne pepper. No. 227. John Doree. Of all fish this one is perhaps the most delicious, although but recently in vogue; their appearance has been a great objection to them; considering this I have studied to dis¬ cover several ways of dressing them to improve their ap¬ pearance and flavour; to dress them plain you boil them in the same way as brills, allowing about the same time for the same weight, and ascertain when done by the same means; serve on a napkin; garnish the parts that are broken with double parsley, and serve anchovy sauce in a boat. No. 228. John Doree a V Orleannaise. Procure a very fresh dory about five pounds in weight, then have ready half a pound of forcemeat of fish (No. 124), in a basin, with which mix a little chopped thyme and parsley, season rather high, stuff your dory with it, lay it in a fish kettle with three onions, a carrot, turnip, head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, one tablespoonful of salt, four cloves, two glasses of port wine, two of vinegar, and four quarts of water, set it over POISSONS. 105 a slow fire for ail hour to stew, drain it well and dish it without a napkin, have ready the following sauce:—put four yolks of eggs in a stewpan with half a pound of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; stir it over the fire (with a wooden spoon,) till the butter is melted and thickens, then add an ounce of lobster spawn (that has been pounded with an ounce of butter and passed through a hair sieve), mix it well together, then add eighteen spoonfuls of bech¬ amel sauce (No. 7), stir it over the fire till it becomes red and thickish, then add a few drops of essence of anchovy, and a little cayenne pepper, with a pinch of sugar, pass it through a tammie, then add six gherkins cut in large fillets, and thirty fillets of boiled beet-root the same size as the fillets of gherkin; pour it over the fish, and garnish with craw fish, and sprigs of parsley laid between. No. 229. John Boree en matelote Mariniere. Flour the fish and boil or stew it as above, dish it with¬ out a napkin, then have ready a matelotte sauce (see fillets of brill en matelotte, No. 220,) to which add three dozen of oysters that have been blanched and bearded; pour the sauce over the fish and serve very hot. No. 230. John Doree a la Cremiere. Boil the fish, put a pint of milk with the water you boil it in, dish it on a napkin, garnish with some large sprigs of double parsley, have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of double cream in a stewpan, and when it is nearly boiling, add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; shake the stewpan round with your hand till the butter is melted, then add the juice of a lemon, a saltspoonful of salt, and half ditto of white pepper; serve in a boat very hot. 106 POISSONS. No. 231. John Doree en Ravigote. Boil the fish as above, and dish it np without a napkin; have ready the following sauce : put three yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of fresh butter, three tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, a saltspoonful of salt, and a little white pepper; stir it over the fire for a few minutes until the butter melts, and it becomes thickish; then add eighteen spoonfuls of melted butter, stir it over the fire, but do not let it boil; pass it through a tammie, then add a table¬ spoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil mixed; place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred, and when very hot pour it over the fish, and garnish with a few sprigs of chervil. This sauce requires to be rather thick, to mask the fish. No. 232. John Doree a la puree de Crevettes. Boil the fish as usual, and dish without a napkin; have ready the following sauce: pick and wash a pint of fresh prawns, pound them in a mortar with half a pound of fresh butter, and mb them through a sieve; then put twelve spoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with twelve of melted butter; place it over the fire, and when it boils, stir the butter and prawns into it; pour the sauce over the fish, and strew chopped lobster over. No. 233. John Doree a la Bateliere. Boil the fish as usual, and dish it up without a napkin; have ready the following sauce: peel fifty button onions, pass them in a stewpan with a little sifted sugar and butter, but keep them quite white; then add a glass of sherry, twenty spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and a bunch of parsley; set it on the corner of the stove to simmer till the onions are quite done (if the sauce is too thick, add a few spoonfuls POISSONS. 107 of white stock); then throw in twenty heads of mushrooms, a dozen of blanched oysters, and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies; take out the bunch of parsley, finish with a little cream, pour the sauce over the fish, and salamander of a light colour. No. 234. John Doree a la Creme ( graiine .) Proceed as for Turbot a la creme gratine (No. 211). No. 235. John Doree a la Hollandaise. Proceed as for Turbot a la Hollandaise (No. 206). No. 236. Saiimon. The Thames salmon used to be reckoned the most re¬ cherche ; but since so many steam-boats have been intro¬ duced upon the surface of that noble river, and the tunnel has been built, introducing their greatest enemies, human beings, both above and below their liquid habitation, they have fled to the ocean for protection, and are now no longer discernible from their once commoner brethren. But the Severn salmon is now esteemed the best; the crimped is in the highest favour with the gourmets. It would be useless to make any observations about this fish, as it is well known to range as one of the highest order. No. 237. Sanmon au naturel. Put your fish in cold water (using a pound of salt to every six quarts of water), let it be well covered with water, and set it over a moderate fire; when it begins to simmer, set it on the side of the fire. If the fish weighs four pounds, let it simmer half an hour; if eight pounds, three quarters of an hour, and so on in proportion; dish it on a napkin, and serve lobster or shrimp sauce in a boat. (See those sauces. Nos. 68 and 73.) 10S POISSONS. No. 238. Crimped Salmon au naturel. Have two quarts of water boiling in a stewpan, with half a pound of salt, in which place two slices of crimped salmon (if more than two required, put more water in proportion), boil them quickly for a quarter of an hour or twenty mi¬ nutes ; try the bone in the centre, and if it leaves easily, the fish is done; avoid leaving the fish in water after it is done, as it destroys its aroma; but if not ready, cover it over with a wet napkin, and stand it in the hot closet; dish on a napkin, and serve either lobster or shrimp sauce with it. (See Nos. 68 and 73.) No. 239. Samnon en matelote Mariniere. Rub two or three large slices of salmon with oil, and dip them in flour; then put them on a gridiron over a moderate fire; when One side is done turn them carefully, and when the bone will leave easily, they are done; dish them without a napkin, and pour a matelote sauce (No. 62) over them. 240. Saumon a la Mazarine. Boil the salmon in slices, as previously; dish it without a napkin, and pom 1 a Mazarine sauce over them (see Turbot a la Mazarine, No. 207.) No. 241. Saumon a la Hollandaise. Boil the salmon as before; if in slices, dish them without a napkin, and pom- the sauce over them; if a whole salmon serve it in a boat. (See Turbot a la Hollandaise, No. 206.) No. 242. Samnon a la Cardinal. Stuff the belly of the salmon with forcemeat of fish (No. 124) and braise as directed for John Doree a rOrleannaise (No. 228); when done dish it without a napkin, and cover POISSONS. 109 it with a mazarine sauce (No. 207), sprinkle truffles and gherkins cut in diamonds over it. No. 243. Saumon a VAmiral. Truss a small salmon in the form of the letter S, and boil it as previously; dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: peel four large onions, cut them in slices, and put them into a stewpan with six tablespoonfuls of salad oil; fry them a light brown colour, then pour off the oil, and add two glasses of port wine, three cloves, one blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, one teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar, twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and six of brown gravy (No. 135); reduce it over a sharp fire a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tammie, and place it again in a stewpan; boil it again a short time, and finish with one ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78), and two spoonfuls of Harvey sauce; then place a border of mashed potatoes round the fish, upon which dish a border of quenelles of whiting (No. 124); and upon every other quenelle stick a prawn, pour the sauce over the fish, and a mazarine sauce over the quenelles; serve very hot. No. 244.' Saunion en matelote Saxone. Boil a small salmon as in the last article, and dish with¬ out a napkin ; have ready some small legs of lobster, bend them at the joints and stick the ends into the back of the salmon, from head to tail, make the sauce as for turbot a la poissoniere (No. 212), and pour over the fish, then have ready some fillets of sole (cut in strips as fine as white- bait,) nicely bread-crumbed and fried in lard, with which garnish your fish. No. 245. Saumon ala Bey rout. Broil two slices of salmon in oiled paper over a mode- no POISSONS. rate fire; when they are done peel the skin from the edge and lay them on a dish without a napkin; have ready the following sauce: put one tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with one ditto of Chili vinegar, one of common vinegar, two ditto of Harvey sauce, two ditto mushroom catsup, and twenty tablespoonfuls of melted butter; let it reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy and a small quan¬ tity of sugar, pour it over the fish and serve very hot. No. 246. Salmon ala Pecheuse. Take a slice of thick salmon and make an incision upon each side, cutting it to the bone, put plenty of salt and chopped onions upon it and rub it well in, then oil a sheet of white paper, lay the salmon on it, fold the paper over and crimp it at the edges to keep the steam from escaping, put it on a gridiron over a slow fire, and when done serve it in the paper with pats of butter separate ; the person that serves this dish at table should open the paper and place two pats of butter on each slice ; it requires to be eaten very hot. No. 247. Salmon a V JEcvlliere. Boil three large slices of salmon, place them upon a dish, then have ready the following sauce : put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a very small quantity of salad oil, pass it over a moderate fire three or four mi¬ nutes, but keep them quite white, then cut in small dice the tender part of four dozen of oysters, put them in the stewpan with the onions, stir them over the fire till the oysters are warmed through, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, (mix all well together,) two tablespoonfuls of oyster sauce (No. 69), half a teaspoonful of salt, and two ditto of sugar, with a little cayenne pepper and essence of anchovies, place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred, and when it POISSONS. Ill has boiled two minutes stir in the yolks of four eggs very quickly, keep it over the fire another half minute till it begins to set, then pour it on a dish and when cold spread it upon the shoes of salmon, then egg and bread-crumb over, and put in a warm oven twenty minutes, salamander of a good colour, dish them without a napkin, and pour a lobster sauce (No. 68) with oysters in it round them. No. 248. Saumon cl la Creme d’Anchois. Boil two slices of salmon, dish without a napkin, and pour the sauce over them (see Turbot a la creme d’anchois, No. 218). No. 249. Saumon au gratin a la Provengale. Should you have any salmon left from a previous dinner it is very good served in this manner (for description, see Turbot au gratin a la proven^ale, No. 215.) No. 250. Saumon a la Creme ( qratine ). Proceed as for Turbot (No. 211). Many of my readers will probably make some remarks and think it singular that so many different fishes are served with the same sauces, but I must here observe that each fish brings with it its own flavour; and again, it is not to be supposed that any cook would send two different fishes the same day with the same sauce, when there is such a variety to choose from. No. 251. Sole en matelote Normande. Cut the fins off a fine fresh sole and make an incision down the back close to the bone, in which put some force¬ meat of fish (No. 114), well seasoned with chopped escha¬ lots and parsley, then butter a saute-pan very lightly and put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots into it with two glasses of white wine, lay the sole into it and season with 112 POISSONS. a little pepper and salt, then cover it with some bechamel sauce (No. 7), and put it into a moderate oven for about twenty minutes or half an hour, (but try whether it is done with a skewer,) brown it lightly with the salamander, then take up the sole, dish it without a napkin, and make the sauce as follows: put six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in the saute-pan with six ditto of milk, let it boil four mi¬ nutes, keeping it stirred, then add one dozen oysters blanch¬ ed, one dozen quenelles of whiting (No. 124), one dozen mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, and four tablespoonfuls of cream, with a little cayenne pepper and sugar; pom the sauce over and round the fish, pass the salamander again over it and garnish round with fried bread cut in small triangles. The sauce may be passed though a tammie before the garniture is added if required. Fried smelts are frequently served as garniture around it. No. 252. Sole aa gratin .* Cut the fins off a fine fresh sole, make an incision in the back, then butter a saute-pan and put two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions in it with half a glass of white wine, then lay in the sole, cover it with a brown sauce (No. 1), and sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs over it, with a few small pieces of butter; then place it in a moderate oven twenty minutes or half an horn (try when done as before), take it out of the saute-pan and dish without a napkin ; then put four spoonfuls of stock and two of brown sauce in the saute-pan, boil it five minutes, keeping it stirred, then add the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, one of essence of ancho¬ vies, and a little sugar and cayenne pepper; pour the sauce round the fish, place it again in the oven for a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over it and serve very hot. * In Prance we have silver dishes on purpose for au gratins , in which they are dressed and served to table, the gratin adhering to the bottom of the dish. POISSONS. 113 No. 253. Sole a la Poltaise. Trim a fine sole and make an incision down the back clearing the meat from the bone, then melt two ounces of butter, and mix with it a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and a glass of sherry; put the sole in a dish and pour the butter, etc., over it, sprinkle a few bread crumbs on it and put it in the oven twenty minutes or half an hour; when done pour a little anchovy sauce (No. 72) over it, and brown it lightly with the salamander. No. 254. Sole a la Hollandaise . Plain boil a sole in salt and water and pour the sauce over it (see Turbot a la Hollandaise, No. 206). No. 255. Sole aux fines herbes. Boil a sole as before (if the sole is very fresh it may be put in boiling water, but it is best to let it only simmer) in salt and water, and dish it without a napkin; have ready the following sauce: put in a stewpan six teaspoonfuls of chopped onions and a piece of butter, fry the onions a light brown, then add eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and let it boil at the corner of the stove ten minutes, then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, one ditto of essence of anchovies, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon ; pour it over the fish and serve. This sauce must be rather thick but not too much so. No. 256. Sole ala Maitre d’Hotel. Boil the sole as above and dish it without a napkin; then put four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and four ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of broth, when it boils add two ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful 8 114 POISSONS. of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, and a little pepper and salt; pour the sauce over the fish and serve. No. 257. Sole a Vltalienne. Boil a. sole as usual, then have ready the following sauce : put two teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a very little salad oil, fry them a few minutes, but keep them quite white, drain off the oil, and add two tablespoon¬ fuls of white wine, ten ditto of white sauce (No. 7), four ditto of boiled milk, and let it simmer ten minutes at the corner of the fire, skim it well, then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little chopped parsley, the juice of half a lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of cream; mix the whole well together, season it a little more if required and pour it over the fish. No. 258. Soles plain f ried. Lard and oil together is much better to fry in than but¬ ter, for the milk that remains in the butter is sure to burn ; the only way to use butter is to clarify it, but that is very expensive, lard by itself being as good as anything, but be careful that it is clean and not burnt; cut off the fins of the sole and dip it in flour, then egg and bread-crumb it, but do not put it in the lard unless it is quite hot, which you may easily ascertain by throwing a drop of water in it; if it is hot enough it will make a hissing noise; allow the sole ten minutes to fry, or less, according to the size, dish it upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve shrimp sauce (No. 73) in a boat. Observe the above receipt, to fry all kinds of fish, as eels, smelts, whitings, flounders, perch, gudgeons, &c. Four pounds of lard would oe sufficient, and would do for several occasions. POISSONS. 115 No. 259. Sole a la Colbert. Make an incision in the back of a sole from the head nearly to the tail, then break the bone in three pieces, bread¬ crumb it and fry as before ; when done, take out the pieces of bone and fill with the following: lay two ounces of but¬ ter on a plate with half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half ditto of chopped tarragon and chervil, two ditto of lemon juice, and a little pepper and salt; put about three parts of it into the sole and mix the remainder with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, pour round the fish, which is dished without a napkin; put it in the oven a few minutes and serve very hot. No. 260. Sole a la Meuniere. Cut the fins off a sole and crimp it on each side by mak¬ ing incisions across it; then rub half a tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions well into it, dip it in flour and broil it over a slow fire; then have ready four pats of butter mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little cayenne pepper; rub it over the sole, which is previously dished up without a napkin, turn the sole over once or twice, put it in the oven a minute and serve very hot. No. 261. Sole a la Creme d'Anchois. Boil a sole as usual, and dish it without a napkin; have ready the following sauce : put six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of white broth ; let it reduce a few minutes ; then add an ounce of anchovy butter, and two spoonfuls of whipped cream; mix it well, and pour over the fish. No. 262. Filets de Soles en matelote . Fillet two soles in the manner described (see Fillets of brill a la juive, No. 225), cut each fillet in halves, flour and 116 POISSONS. egg, and bread-crumb them; fry them of a nice colour in salad oil; when done, dish them on a border of mashed potatoes, and fill the centre with a matelote sauce (see Fillets of brill en matelote, No. 226), and serve very hot. No. 26B. Filets de Soles au gratin. Fillet two soles ; egg and bread-crumb, and fry as above; dish them on a thin border of mashed potatoes, pom the following sauce over them, and cover with bread-crumbs: put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stew- pan, and when it boils add a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, one do. of Harvey sauce, and one do. of essence of anchovies; let it boil five minutes, season with a little sugar; add two yolks of eggs, put it in the oven ten minutes, pass the salamander over it, and serve very hot. No. 264. Filets de Soles a la Maitre d’Hotel. Fillet a pair of soles as before (but neither cut them or bread-crumb them), rub an ounce of butter into a saute- pan, then lay in the fillets, the skin side downwards, and sprinkle chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon over them; then place them over a slow fire; turn them when about half done (they must be kept quite white); when done, lay the fillets on a cloth, cut them in halves slantingly, and dish them round without a napkin ; then place them in a hot closet; then put ten tablespoon¬ fuls of melted butter, and two do. of white sauce (No. 7) into the same saute-pan, with a little more lemon-juice and chopped parsley; boil it two minutes; then add two pats of butter, a little sugar and salt, and four tablespoonfuls of milk; pom over the fillets, and serve directly. No. 265. Filets de Soles a la Hollandaise. Fillet two soles and lay them in a saute-pan, well but- POISSONS. 117 tered, sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon over them; place them on the fire, and cook them quite white; when done, lay them on a cloth, cut them in halves slantingly, and dish them round; when ready to serve, pour some sauce Hollandaise over them (No. 66). No. 266. Filets de Soles a Vltalienne. Fillet two soles, and cook them as in the last; dish them up in the same manner; place them in the hot closet; then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in the saute-pan, with two spoonfuls of white wine; stir it over the fire a minute, then add six tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two of white sauce, and four of white broth, with a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, half do. chopped parsley, a little lemon-juice, and two spoonfuls of cream; when ready to serve, pour the sauce over the fish. No. 267. Filets de Soles en ravigote. Fillet and dress the soles as for Filet de soles a Fltalienne ; then put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and six of white broth in the saute-pan ; then mix half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half do. of chopped chervil, and half do. of chopped tarragon, with two ounces of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, and two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; boil the sauce in the saute-pan three minutes, keeping it stirred, then add the butter thus prepared with it; stir it over the fire another minute, and when ready to serve, pour it over the fillets. No. 268. Filets de Sole a la Orlie. Fillet two soles and cut them in halves lengthwise; then lay them in a basin with an onion cut in slices, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, two wine-glasses of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt; let it remain thus two hours, then 118 POISSONS. dry them in a cloth', flour, egg, and bread-crumb them, and fry in oil; dish them round without a napkin; then put four tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37) in a stew- pan, with one of Harvey sauce, and two of good stock; boil three minutes; finish with a little sugar, and pour it in the dish, but not over the fish. This sauce requires to be rather thin. No. 269. Filets de Soles a la Reform. Fillet two soles, beat each fillet flat; have ready a dozen oysters, blanched and chopped, which mix with four table- spoonfuls of forcemeat of whitings (No. 124), and a little chopped eschalots; spread some on one fillet, then cover another over it, and so on till they are all done; put a little oil in a saute-pan, with a little chopped eschalots, and a glass of white wine ; lay your fillets in, season with a little pepper and salt, and put them in a moderate oven until ten¬ der ; turn them over, and cut each into large diamonds, dress them round (points upwards) upon a dish, and put them in the hot closet ; put ten tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and six do. of milk into the saute-pan; place it over the fire, and when it boils pass it through a tammie; place it again on the fire, boil it a few minutes, add two pats of butter, and stir it till quite smooth ; pour the sauce over the fillets, sprinkle some gherkins and ham (cut in strips half an inch long) over, and serve very hot. No. 270. Filets de Soles aux Huitres. Fillet and dress two soles as for Filets de sole a la Hol- landaise (No. 265), dish them round, then put a dozen and a half of oysters lightly blanched in the saute-pan, with ten tablespoonfuls of oyster sauce (No. 69), and four do. of milk; boil five minutes, season with a little cayenne pepper and salt, if required, and pour over the fillets. POISSONS. 119 No. 271. Cod-fish au naturel. Crimped cod, like crimped salmon, is preferable to the plain, and is better cut in slices and cooked, than to cook the whole fish; to boil it well you should have the water boiling (with one pound of salt to every six quarts of water); when you put in the fish, then draw it to the corner of the stove, and let it simmer twenty minutes or half an hour; when it is done, the bone in the centre will leave with facility; be careful you do not boil it too much, for it would cause the fish to eat tough and stringy, and observe in boiling cod that is not crimped, to put more salt in the water, it will make the fish eat firmer. No. 272. Cabillaud aux Hmtres. Boil your fish as above, dress it on a napkin, and garnish with some nice sprigs of double parsley, and serve the oyster sauce (No. 69) in a boat. No. 273. Cabillaud a la Bechamel. Boil two slices of cod as before, dish them without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put nearly a quart of Bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of white stock; stir it over the fire, to reduce ten minutes, then add two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne pepper and sugar; finish with a gill of whipped cream, and pour over the fish. No. 274. Cabillaud d la Collegienne. Boil the fish as before, and dish it without a napkin; then have ready the following sauce: put an ounce and a half of butter in a stewpan, and mix two ounces of flour with it over the fire; then add a quart of milk, with two eschalots peeled, an anchovy well washed, a httle salt and 120 POISSONS. cayenne pepper; let it boil fifteen minutes, keeping it stirred, and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan; then add a pint of muscles (that have been blanched and bearded), two hard boiled eggs cut in dice, and three teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice; season rather high, and when ready to serve pom over the fish. No. 275. Cabillaiid a la Noble Dame. Boil two slices of cod as before, dish them without a napkin, and pom a good Hollandaise sauce (No. 60) over them; then have ready two soles filleted, each fillet cut in halves which egg and bread-crumb, and fry (of a light brown colour) in oil; dress them round the cod-fish to garnish it, and sprinkle a few sprigs of chervil over itthis dish is very good, and looks exceedingly well if nicely done. No. 276. Stewed Cod a V Ecossaise. Put into a large stewpan four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, twenty do. of melted butter, two of Harvey sauce, two of essence of anchovies, and one of Chili vinegar; put in two slices of cod, start them over a sharp fire, and, when boiling, place them to simmer for half an horn; then turn them, and let them simmer another quarter of an horn; dress them on a dish, without a napkin; then put a little sugar in the stewpan, and reduce the sauce till rather thick; pom it over the fish, and serve. No. 277. Cabillaiid entier a la Bourgeoisc. Procure a crimped cod-fish about ten pounds in weight, cover it over with salt on a dish, and let it remain six hours; then put it in a fish-kettle, and pom two gallons of boiling water over it; let it simmer an horn very gently; take it up, drain it well, and dish it without a napkin, garnish with twenty very white young potatoes; then POISSONS. 121 put half a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan; place it over the fire, and when it is melted add a saltspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the fish. No. 278. Cabillaud a la Rachel. Salt a crimped cod as above, then put it into a large baking dish, with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and three glasses of Madeira wine (but previously fill the incisions of the fish with a forcemeat of cod’s liver, No. 126); put it in a moderate oven, and when half done, take it out ; egg it over and bread-crumb, then put it in the oven again; it will require an hour and a quarter to bake; when done, dish it without a napkin, and pour a Beyrout sauce (see Saumon a la Beyrout, No. 245) over it without garniture. No. 279. Slices of Cod a la Montefiore. Boil two slices of cod, and let it get cold; then cover them with forcemeat of cod’s liver (No. 126), egg and bread¬ crumb them, put them in the oven half an hour, and brown them lightly with the salamander; dish them without a napkin, and pour anchovy sauce (No. 72) round them. No. 280. Cabillaud a la Creme ( gratine .) See Turbot, (No. 211.) No. 281. Cabillaud a la Provenc/ile. See Turbot au gratin a la Proven gale (No. 215). No. 282. Cabillaud a la Juive. Put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and two do of salad oil in a stewpan; pass them over a fire five minutes; then add twenty tablespoon fids of melted butter, two do. of Harvey sauce, two do. of essence of anchovies, and two of 122 POISSONS. Chili vinegar; lay in two slices of cod, and proceed as for stewed cod a l’Ecossaise; reduce the sauce, and pom- over them; garnish with quenelles of cod’s liver (No. 126), and onions sliced and boiled. No. 283. Cabillaud a la Hollandaise. Boil the fish, dress it without a napkin, pour a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over, and sprinkle some chopped parsley upon it. No. 284. Salt Fish. Choose the fish with a black skin, and be particular in soaking it well; to boil, put it in a fish-kettle with plenty of cold water, place it over the fire, and the moment it boils take it off, put the cover on the kettle and let it simmer a few minutes, but if it boils the fish would be hard and thready, when done dish it on a napkin, garnish with plain boiled parsnips and parsley, and serve egg sauce (No. 76) in a boat. No. 285. Salt Cod a la Maitre d’Hotel. Boil a nice square piece of fish as above directed, dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce : put twenty tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, and when it boils add a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 79), stir it till it becomes smooth, and pour the sauce over. No. 286. Salt Fish a la Bourgmestre. Boil a square piece of fish as above, dish it without a napkin, then melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan over the fire, and when half melted add a little pepper, a little scraped garlic, the juice of half a lemon, and when very hot four hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, pour over the fish. POISSONS. 123 No. 287. Bed Mullets a Vltalienne. Of all fish this is one • of the most recherche when in good order, it is of a nice red colour, and the eyes look very bright. Make a paper box the length of the fish, then oil the box and lay in the fish, season it with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon juice, and pour two tablespoon¬ fuls of white sauce (No. 7) over each, then put it or them, (if more than one) in a moderate oven and bake twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size, and when done, slightly brown them with the salamander; serve them in the paper boxes with an Italian sauce (No. 31) poured over them. No. 288. Bed Mullets a la Venitienne. Put into a deep saute-pan a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, one ditto of chopped parsley, one ditto of chopped tarragon, one of chopped mushrooms, two of salad oil, and foiu of sherry; then lay in four nice mullets, (well cleaned), season with a little pepper and salt, cover them with a sheet of white paper, and place them in a slow oven for an hour, turn them over and dress them in a dish without a napkin ; then put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), with one of essence of anchovy, and a little sugar, boil it about ten minutes and pour over the fish. No. 289. Bed Mullets a la Bavigote. Put the mullets in boxes and dress as for Italienne, but make the sauce thus : place a quarter of a pound of fresh butter on a plate with a tablespoonful of chopped tarragon, one ditto of chopped chervil, one ditto of lemon juice, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, mix all well together; have ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) boiling in a 124 POISSONS. stewpan, and throw the other ingredients into it, stir it over the tire till quite smooth, and pour over your mullets in the paper boxes. If too thick add a little milk. No. 290. Fillets of Mullets a la Montesquieu. Take four fish and fillet them by passing the knife from the back of the head to the tail, keeping close to the bone, then cut each fillet in halves, then rub a quarter of a pound of butter on the bottom of a deep saute-pan and lay in the fillets; season with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry ; place them over a brisk fire five minutes, then turn them gently and place them again on the fire for five minutes, dress them round on a border of mashed potatoes, but be careful not to break them, as they are very delicate; put ten spoonfuls of melted butter in the saute-pan, with four of milk, and a little sugar and salt; set it over the fire, boil it three minutes, keeping it stirred, and then pour over the fillets. No. 291. Fillets of Mullets a Vltalienne. Take four fish, fillet and dress as above, serve an Italian sauce (No. 31) over them. No. 292. Fillets of Mullets a la Venitienne. Fillet and dress the fillets as above, and sauce as for mullet a la Venitienne (No. 288.) No. 293. Fillets of Mullets sauce Bavigote. Fillet and dress the fish as before, with the exception of the sherry and sauce, as for mullets a la Ravigote. No. 294. Fillets of Mullets a la Mazarine. Fillet and dress the fish as in the last, and pour a sauce Mazarine, (see turbot a la Mazarine, No. 207) over them. POISSONS. 125 No. 295. Whitings , to fry them. Every person knows the delicacy of this fish, and its lightness as food, especially invalids; it is generally well received at all tables : to fry them well, dry them in a cloth, then throw them in flour, egg and bread-crumb, fry them in hot lard, observing the directions for frying soles; serve them on a napkin with shrimp sauce in a boat, and garnish with parsley. No. 296. Whiting au gratin. Have the whitings skinned, with their tails turned into their mouths ; butter a saute-pan and put in the whitings, with a tablespoonful of chopped onions and four tablespoon¬ fuls of brown sauce (No. 1) over each; sprinkle bread crumbs over them, and a little clarified butter, and put them in a moderate oven half an hour; take them out and dress them on a dish without a napkin; then put twelve table¬ spoonfuls more brown sauce into the saute-pan, with a tea¬ spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one ditto chopped parsley, one ditto essence of anchovy, a little pepper, salt, and sugar, boil ten minutes, pour round the fish, and pass the sala¬ mander over them. (See note to No. 252.) No. 297. Whitings broiled. Have the fish skinned and curled round, flour it, and lay it on the gridiron over a moderate fire; it will take about twenty minutes; dish it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve plain melted butter in a boat. Season when near done. No. 298. Whitings broiled a la Maitre d’Hotel. Broil the fish as above, dish them without a napkin, have six tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, put it to boil, then add two ounces of maitre d’hotel butter 126 POISSONS. (No. 79), stir it till it is melted, but do not let it boil, and pour over the fish. No. 299. Fillets of Whitings fried. Take the fillets of six small whitings which have not been skinned, dip them in flour, egg, and bread-crumb them, and fry in very hot lard; garnish with fried parsley, and serve with sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) in a boat. No. 300. Fillets of Whitings a la Hollandaise. Fillet six whitings as above, cut them in halves, then butter a saute-pan, and lay in the fillets skin side down¬ wards; season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, place them over a slow fire five minutes, turn them and place them again on the fire; when done, dish them round on a dish, and pour some sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over them. No. 301. Fillets of Whitings a Vltalienne. Fillet and dress the fish as in the last, adding chopped parsley to the seasoning, and make the sauce as for Filets de soles a 1’Italienne (No. 266). No. 302. Whiting a VHuile. Fry the whiting in very hot salad oil, instead of lard, of a very light brown colour; dish it on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve shrimp sauce in a boat. No. 303. Mackerel. The mackerel is a useful fish, and makes its appearance upon the tables of all classes; for whilst its delicious flavour makes it a favourite of the rich, its cheapness frequently renders it economical food for the poor. To plain bod them put them in boding salt and water, let them simmer twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size; dish poissons. 127 on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve fennel sauce (No. 75) in a boat. No. 304. Mackerel a la Maitre (THotel. Cut a mackerel up the back close to the bone, season it with pepper and salt, (a little cayenne if approved,) butter the skin well, and lay it on the gridiron; it will take about twenty minutes over a moderate fire to broil; when it is done have ready a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 79), place the mackerel on a dish without a napkin, put half the butter in the incision at the back, and spread the rest over it; place it in the oven a few minutes and serve very hot. No. 305. Fillets of Mackerel a la Dumas. Fillet your mackerel as you would whitings by passing the knife down the back bone, lay your fillets in a buttered saute-pan, (the skin side upwards), with two tablespoonfuls of oil, two of port wine, and season with a little pepper and salt; place them over a sharp fire ten minutes, then turn them and place them over again five minutes longer, or till they are done, take them out, cut each fillet in halves, and dish them round on a dish without a napkin ; then put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) into the saute-pan, let it boil five minutes, then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, a little lemon juice, and a small quantity of sugar; chop the roe of the mack¬ erel and put in the sauce, let it simmer five minutes, pour it over the fillets, cover them lightly with bread-crumbs, brown lightly with the salamander and serve very hot. The sauce must not be too thick. No. 306. Mackerel au beurre noir. Open your mackerel at the back, season with pepper and 128 POISSONS. salt, butter all over, and lay quite flat on the gridiron, broil it about a quarter of an hour over a moderate fire, and place it in a dish without a napkin, then put half a pound of butter in a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire till it becomes black, (but not burnt,) throw in half a handful of picked parsley, fry it crisp, and pom it over the fish, then put four tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into the stewpan, boil it half a minute, season with pepper and salt, and pom likewise over the fish, put it in the oven five minutes and serve very hot. No. 307. Fillets of Mackerel a la Venitienne. Fillet your mackerel and cut each fillet in halves, butter a saute-pan and lay them in skin-side downwards ; season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots ; place them on a slow fire five minutes, then turn them, and place them again on the fire ten minutes longer, but keep them quite white; dress them on a dish without a napkin in the form of a star; put ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in the saute-pan, with half a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto of chopped truffles, and a tablespoon¬ ful of port wine; let it boil a few minutes, pom over the fillets and serve. No. 308. Dublin Day Haddock a la bonne Femme. This fish used to be very difficult to procure fresh in London, but the rapidity of steam conveyance by sea and land, brings it almost alive into the London markets. I must highly recommend this both for its firmness and its lightness ; it is usually cooked in one of the two following ways, but it may be plain boiled and served with shrimp, maitre d’liotel, Hollandaise, or any other sauces: cut four or five incisions on each side of a Dublin Bay haddock, about an inch deep, put it in a deep dish and cover it well POISSONS. 129 with salt, let it remain so about twelve hours, then put it in boiling water and let it simmer thirty or forty minutes, (if the fish weighs six or seven pounds,) dish it on a nap¬ kin, garnish with parsnips plain boiled, and parsley, and serve egg sauce (No. 76) in a boat. No. 309. Dublin Bay Haddock, baked. Fill the belly of the fish with stuffing (No. 127), sew it up with packthread, and truss it with its tail in its mouth ; rub a quarter of a pound of butter over it, set it on a baking sheet, put it in a warmish oven and bake it three quarters of an hour; when done, dress it on a dish without a napkin, and pour a Beyrout sauce round it—(for sauce, see No. 64). No. 310. Common Haddock, plain. This is a very serviceable, light, wholesome fish, and may be obtained like soles or whitings, at any time of the year; to dress them plain put them in boiling water well salted, and let them simmer about twenty minutes, (or according to the size,) dress on a napkin and serve shrimp sauce in a boat. No. 311. Haddock a la Maitre d’ Hotel. T Cut the fish open at the back on each side of the bone, season it with pepper and salt, dip it in flour, and lay it on a gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it very carefully; it will take about twenty minutes to cook, dress it on a dish without a napkin ; then have ready a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 69), put half of it in the back of the fish, and put the fish in the oven, put the remainder of the butter in the stewpan with six tablespoon- fuls of rather thin melted butter; when quite hot pour it round the fish and serve. 9 130 POISSONS. No. 312. Haddock a la Walter Scott. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one ditto of Harvey sauce, one ditto of catsup, one ditto of sherry, and twenty ditto of melted butter into a middling-sized stew- pan, place it over the fire and let it boil fifteen minutes, keeping it stirred, then have ready a good sized haddock, cut it in four pieces, put it into the stewpan with the sauce, place it over a slow fire for twenty minutes, or longer if necessary, when done, dress it on a dish without a napkin; reduce the sauce a little more if required, then add a little sugar and essence of anchovy, pour it over the fish and serve. No. 313. Fillets of Haddock a la St. Paul. Fillet your fish the same as a whiting, dip the fillets in flour, egg, and bread-crumb, and fry in hot lard, or oil, in a saute-pan, dress them on a napkin, garnish with fried water¬ cress, and serve with two ounces of anchovy butter melted, but not boiled, in a boat. No. 314. Fillets of Haddock a la Hollandaise. Fillet your fish as above, and proceed as for fillets of whiting a la Flollandaise (see No. 300). No. 315. Gurnet and Pipers. Though this fish is not much appreciated, I must say it is deserving of more repute than it possesses in the opinion of epicures, for when fresh and well dressed it deserves to rank as one of the first of the second-class fishes ; to dress it plain it is put in boiling water, and simmered twenty or thirty minutes or more, according to the size; dress it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve anchovy sauce in a boat. POISSONS. 131 No. 316. Roast Gurnet. Fill the belly of the fish with stuffing (No. 127), sew it up with packthread, and truss the fish with its tail in its mouth, butter a saute-pan, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots and a glass of sherry into it, egg the fish with a paste brush, bread-crumb, and lay a few pieces of butter upon it; then put it in the saute-pan, and place it in the oven half an hour, or more if required; when done, dish it without a napkin, first drawing out the packthread, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in the saute-pan, with four ditto of broth, a quarter ditto of sugar, and a half ditto of essence of anchovy; boil it five minutes, pour it round the fish, pass the salamander over it and serve. No. 317. Fillets of Gurnets en matelote. Skin and fillet four small gurnets (in the same manner as you would whitings), cut each fillet in halves, egg and bread-crumb, and fry them in oil in a saute-pan ; dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve a sauce mate¬ lote (No. 262) in the centre. No. 318. Fillets of Gurnets a la Malt re cT Hotel. Skin and fillet the fish as above, then butter a saute-pan and lay the fillets in it, season with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon juice; place them on a slow fire five minutes, turn them and put them again on the fire till done, dress them round on a dish without a napkin, and finish the sauce as for fillets of soles a la maitre d’hotel (No. 264), and pour over the fillets. No. 319. Fillets of Gurnets a VItalienne. Skin, fillet, cook, and dress the fish as before for sauce, (see fillets of soles a la Italienne, No. 266.) 132 POISSONS. No. 320. Herrings broiled , sauce Dig on. These fish are fresh when the eyes look bright, the gills red, and the scales glossy ; the delicacy of these fish prevent them being dressed in any other way than broiled or boiled, they may certainly be bread-crnmbed and fried, but very few persons like them; they are best in the following way: wipe them well and cut three incisions on each side, dip them in flour, and broil them over a moderate fire; when done, sprinkle a little salt over them, dish them on a nap¬ kin, garnish with parsley, and serve the following sauce in a boat: put eight tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stew- pan, with two ditto of French mustard, two pats of butter, and a little pepper and salt, when boiling and the pats are melted, pour the sauce into the boat and serve. No. 321. Herrings plain boiled. Put two quarts of water to boil (in a stewpan), with half a pound of salt; when boiling put in six or eight herrings, stand them on the corner of the fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour, take them up, dish them on a napkin, and serve shrimp, anchovy, or sauce ITollandaise in a boat; these fish require to be served the moment they are dressed, or they become heavy and indigestible. No. 322. Boiled Herrings d la Creme. Boil the herrings as above, and dish them without a nap¬ kin ; have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of the best cream in a stewpan, with a little pepper and salt, and when nearly boiling add two ounces of fresh butter and the juice of half a lemon ; stir it quick and pour over the fish. No. 323. Skate plain boiled. This fish with some persons is a great favourite; it is POISSONS. 133 usually crimped, cut in slices, and rolled round, but very seldom dressed whole; to boil it put in salt and water as usual when the water boils, and let it simmer twenty mi¬ nutes, then take it up, dish it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with anchovy sauce in a boat. No. 324. Skate au Beurre noi/r. Boil the skate as above, drain it well, and dish it with¬ out a napkin; put half a pound of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire till it gets quite black, then fry half a handful of parsley (that has been well washed and picked) in it quite crisp, and pom* over the fish, then put five tablespoonfuls of vinegar, with a little pepper and salt, into the same stewpan, boil it a minute, pour over the fish, put it in the oven five minutes and serve very hot. No. 325. Skate a la Maitre cVHotel. Boil the fish as previously, dish it up without a napkin, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, and when it boils add a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 79) to it; stir it till the butter is melted and pom* over the fish. No. 326. Smelts , to fry them. Select these fishes very fresh, they being so very delicate they must not be kept more than one day in summer or two in winter; their appearance when fresh is very silvery, the eyes are very bright, and they smell like violets or cucumbers, but if the belly looks at all black they are not fresh, and consequently not wholesome ; the most common method of dressing them is to fry them; dry them well in a cloth, and dip them in flour; then have half an ounce of butter melted in a stewpan, into which break the yolks of two eggs, with which wash the smelts over with a paste 134 POISSONS. brush, dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce in a boat. No. 327. Smelts a la Juive. Egg and bread-crumb the fish as before, fry in salad oil (very hot), dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve without sauce. No. 328. Smelts a la Boulangere. Dry the fish in a napkin, dip them in very thick cream, and immediately afterwards in flour, so that it forms a paste round them ; fry them in very white hot lard, dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve without sauce. No. 329. Atelettes JEperlans a la Menagere. Put ten smelts upon a silver skewer, dry them in flour, then oil your gridiron and lay the fish upon it, broil them ten minutes over a clear fire, dress them on a dish without a napkin, and pour some butter clarified, with a little pep¬ per, salt, and lemon-juice, over them. In France these fishes are served for second course in the following way: have four small silver skewers, (atelettes,) and run them through the eyes of the fish, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in very hot lard five minutes; serve them on a napkin without any sauce ; they take the place of a roast. No. 330. Buisson d'Bperlans. Truss the fishes by putting their tails into their mouths, season them with pepper and salt, egg and bread-crumb and fry them in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin pyramidically, garnish with fried parsley, and serve plain melted butter in a boat. POISSONS. 135 No. 331. Flounders , Water Souchet. Put a pint of water into a deep saute-pan, with half a tablespoonful of salt, and a little pepper, and forty small sprigs of parsley; when nearly boiling have ready six small flounders, (cut in halves in a slanting direction), and put them into the saute-pan, let them simmer about twelve minutes, take them up and dress them on a dish without a napkin ; then add a little sugar to the liquor they were boiled in, reduce it five minutes, and pom over the fish; half broth may be used with half a pint of water instead of a pint. No. 332. Flounders a la Greenwich. Dry them on a cloth, then dip the white part of them in yolks of eggs, then in flour and bread-crumbs mixed together, fry them in hot lard, dress them on a napkin, with fried parsley in the middle; serve anchovy sauce in a boat; six small fish are enough for this dish. No. 333. Flounders plain fried. Dry them, dip in flour, egg, and bread-crumb, and fry them in hot lard; dress them on a napkin, garnished with parsley, and serve shrimp sauce (No. 73) in a boat. No. 334. Flounders broiled. Dry them and dip them in flour, put them on a gridiron over a moderate fire, when done dress them on a napkin, and serve shrimp sauce in a boat. No. 335. Plaice. I May be dressed like soles, (au gratin,) but the usual way is to boil or fry, and serve on a napkin with anchovy sauce in a boat. It is a watery fish and seldom admitted in the kitchens of the wealthy. 136 roissoNs. No. 336. Whitebait. This very delicate little fish is cooked in the most simple manner; dry them in a couple of cloths, shake the cloths at the corner, but do not touch the fish with your hands; then have ready an equal quantity of bread-crumbs and flour on a dish, throw the fish into it, toss them lightly over with the hands, take them out immediately, put them in a wire basket, and fry them in very hot lard; one minute will cook them; turn them out on to a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over them, dish them on a napkin and serve very hot. These Liliputian fishes never can be had at home in the perfection you get them at Greenwich or Blackwall, where they are obtained as soon as caught, and dressed by persons in constant practice. No. 337. Sturgeon. The flesh of this fish is or ought to be absolutely white; if red, nothing can be done with it; though this fish is much in vogue in Trance, in England it is thought no¬ thing of, for which reason I shall only give two receipts how to dress it; no fish requires so much cooking; to dress it plain it is merely boiled in salt and water, a pound of the fish requiring half an hour, dish on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve anchovy sauce in a boat. It is cut in slices an inch in thickness to boil. No. 338. Sturgeon a la Chanceliere. Procure two pieces of middling-sized fish about five inches in thickness, then prepare the following marinade: put two onions, one carrot, one turnip, six eschalots, four bay-leaves (cut up very small,) six cloves, two blades of mace, and two tablespoonfuls of oil, in a stewpan, pass it over the fire ten minutes, keeping it stirred, then add four POISSONS. 137 wineglassfuls of vinegar, four of sherry, and three pints of broth; boil altogether twenty minutes, then lay in the fish, cover the stewpan, and put it in a slow oven for four horns; let it remain in the stock till ready to serve, dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty tablespoonfuls of thick white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with twenty of the stock the fish was cooked in, let it reduce to two thirds, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, and add twenty blanched muscles, twenty olives, twenty mushrooms, two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, half a one of sugar, and a little cayenne ; when hot pour over the fish. The fish dressed this way may be served with matelote, rnaitre d’hotel, or Mazarine sauce. OP SHELL FISH. No. 339. Lobsters. The middling-sized ones are preferable to the very large ones; the meat is more delicate; plain boiling in salt and water is all they require, or sea water if it can be obtained; though the dressing of this fish is so very simple you very seldom meet with them boiled to perfection; often they are over done, then they have lost their succulence, and eat tough and thready ; but if, on the contrary, they are under done, they are very unwholesome and unpalateable; to avoid this mistake I will here give the proper time to boil them; put a lobster weighing one pound into boiling water and let it boil a quarter of an hour ; if the lobster weighs two pounds it will require half an hour, and so on in pro- 138 POISSONS. portion; this is one of the most useful shell fish employed in cooking, as may be seen by the different receipts for fish. No. 340. Crabs. This is also a very delicate fish ; it is boiled in the same manner as a lobster, only allowing five minutes longer to each pound, but small ones are useless; they are usually eaten cold with oil and vinegar; to send them to table, dress the meat in the back shell by mixing the soft part with a few bread-crumbs, seasoning it with a little pepper and salt, and putting it in the centre of the shell; then pick the flesh from the large claw with a fork, and filling up the two ends, separating it from the other with some red spawn, place it upon a dish, surround it with the small claws in a circle, and garnish with parsley. No. 341. Muscles. Though very little in use, the flavour of this fish is very delicious in many sauces; many people are afraid to eat them, but with care there is not the slightest danger if prepared in the following manner: wash them well in several waters, and be particular in taking off all the threads that hang to the joints of the shell, put them in a stewpan with two onions (sliced), four cloves, two bay-leaves, and a handful of parsley; set them on a brisk fire and cover them over, toss them over now and then, and when they open of themselves they are done; turn them out of the stewpan, lift off the top shells and take out the fish, beard them and be particular that no small crabs remain in them (as they are supposed to be the unwholesome part), put them in a basin, strain their own liquor over them, and put them by for use. In J uly and August these fish may be omitted. POISSONS. 139 No. 342'. Oysters. The English green oysters are the best that are known ; the latter end of August is about the time an epicure would begin to eat them; the small ones are the best for table, and the large ones for culinary purposes; to blanch them open them with care, and put them in a stewpan with their own liquor; let them set, but they must not boil; beard them, strain their own liquor over them in a basin, put them by and use where described. No. 343. Pike roasted. This fish in Trance is found daily upon the tables of the ■first epicures, but the quality of this fish there appears much more dehcate than here. But perhaps the reason of its being more in vogue there is, that other fish are more scarce; not being so much in use here, (that is, in London,) but in the country, where gentlemen have sport in catching them, they are much more thought of, and to them, per¬ haps, the following receipts may be the most valuable. To dress it plain it is usually baked, as follows: having well cleaned the fish stuff it with the stuffing for fish (No. 127), and sew the belly up with packthread ; butter a saute-pan, put the fish into it and place it in the oven for an hour or more, according to the size of it; when done dish it without a napkin and pour anchovy sauce round it; this fish, pre¬ vious to its being baked, must be trussed with its tail in its mouth, four incisions cut on each side, and well buttered over. No. 344. Pike a la Chamberd. The large fish are the only ones fit for this dish (which is much thought of in Trance). Have the fish well cleaned, and lard it in a square on one side with bacon, put it in a fish-kettle, the larded side upwards, and prepare the follow- 140 POISSONS. ing marinade: slice four onions, one carrot, and one turnip, and put them in a stewpan with six bay-leaves, six cloves, two blades of mace, a little thyme, basil, a bunch of parsley, half a pound of lean ham, and half a pound of butter; pass it over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; then add half a bottle of Madeira wine, a wineglassful of vinegar, and six quarts of broth ; boil altogether an hour, then pass it through a sieve and pour the liquor into the kettle over the fish; set the fish on the fire to stew for an hour or more, according to the size, but take care the marinade does not cover the fish, moisten the larded part now and then with the stock, and put some burning charcoal on the lid of the kettle; when done glaze it lightly, dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of the stock your fish was stewed in (having previously taken off all the fat) into a stewpan, with two glasses of Madeira wine, reduce it to half, then add two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), keep it stirred over the fire till the sauce adheres to the back of the wooden spoon, then add the roes of four carp or mackarel (cut in large pieces, but be careful not to break them), twenty heads of very white mushrooms, twenty cockscombs, twelve large quenelles of whiting (No. 124), and finish with a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies and half a one of sugar, pour the sauce round the fish, arrang¬ ing the garniture with taste, add twelve crawfish to the garniture, having previously taken off all the small claws; serve very hot. This dish I dare say will be but seldom made in this country, on account of its complication, but I thought pro¬ per to give it on account of the high estimation in which it is held in France ; I must however observe that I have omitted some of the garniture which would make it still more ex¬ pensive, and if there should be any difficulty in getting what remains, the sauce is very good without. POISSONS. 141 No. 345. Pike en matelote. Stuff and bake the fish as before; when done, dress it without a napkin, and pour a sauce matelote (see Saumon en matelote mariniere, No. 239) in the middle and round the fish, and serve very hot. Or the fish may be stewed as in the last. No. 346. Pike a la Hollandaise. Boil the fish in salt and water, in the same maimer as cod-fish; drain it well, dish it without a napkin, pour a sauce Hollandaise over it. (Bor sauce, see Turbot a la Hollandaise, No. 206.) No. 347. Small Pike d la Meuniere. Crimp a small pike, it must not weigh more than two pounds, but smaller if you can get it, and proceed exactly as for Sole a la meuniere (No. 260), but allow it more time. No. 348. Pike with caper sauce. Boil the fish as before, and have ready caper sauce made as follows : put fifteen tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, and when it boils add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; when it melts, add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119); let it remain on the fire to thicken, but do not let it boil; moisten with a little milk if required, then add two tablespoonfuls of capers, and pour over the fish. No. 349. Pike d la Maitre rpHotel. Boil the fish as usual, and dish it without a napkin; then put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stew- pan ; and when it is upon the point of boiling, add a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter, and when it melts pour over and round the fish; serve very hot. 142 POISSONS. No. 350. Pike a VEgyptienne. Cut two onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, and one leek into slices; put them into a large stewpan with some parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, and a pint of port wine; then have your fish ready trussed, with its tail in its mouth ; put it into the stewpan, with the vegetables ; add three pints of broth, and set it, on a slow fire to stew, with some live charcoal upon the lid; try, when done, by running the knife close in to the back bone; if the meat detaches easily, it is done; take it out, and place on a baking sheet; dry it with a cloth, then egg and bread¬ crumb it; put it in the oven, and salamander it a light brown; then put twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight of milk, and reduce it five minutes; then add four gherkins, the whites of four hard- boiled eggs, and two truffles, cut in very small dice; finish with two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and four pats of butter; dress the fish without a napkin, and sauce over. No. 351. Fillets of Pike a la Maitre cV Hotel. Fillet three small pike and dress them in the manner described in Fillets of mackerel a la Venitienne (No. 307); dress them round on a dish without a napkin, and sauce over with the same sauce as Pike a la maitre cl’hotel. No. 352. Fillets of Pike en matelote. If for a dinner for twelve, fillet four small pike; egg and bread-crumb, and fry in oil; dish them round on a border of mashed potatoes (previously cutting each fillet in halves) and serve sauce matelote (No. 62) in the centre. POISSONS. 143 No. 353. Fillets of Pike a la Meuniere. Fillet four pike as above, cut each fillet in halves, rub some chopped eschalot into them, dip them in flour, broil them; when done, sauce as for Sole a la meuniere (No. 260). Observe, if you happen to live in the country where pike is plentiful, you may dish the fillets in as many ways as soles or any other fish; but I have omitted giving them here, thinking it useless to fill a useful book with so many repe¬ titions ; we have several ways of dressing pike to be eaten cold in France, which I have also omitted, as they would be quite useless in this country. No. 354. Carp en matelote. Have your fish ready cleaned, and make four or five in¬ cisions on each side; then put two shced onions, three sprigs of thyme and parsley, and half a pint of port wine in a stewpan, or small fish-kettle; season the fish with pepper and salt, lay it in the stewpan, add four pints of broth, and place it on a slow fire to stew for an hour (which will be sufficient for a fish of five pounds weight), or more in pro¬ portion to the size; when done, dress it on a dish, without a napkin ; drain it well, and serve a matelote sauce (No. 62) over it, only use some of the stock from the fish (having previously taken off all the fat) instead of plain broth, as directed in that article. No. 355. Carp a la Genoise. Prepare your fish as above, and lay it in your fish-kettle, with two ounces of salt, half a bottle of port wine, two onions, two turnips, one leek, one carrot (cut in slices), three bay-leaves, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a sprig of parsley, cover the fish with white broth; stew it as before, dress it without a napkin, prepare a sauce Genoise (No. 63), and pour over it. 144 POISSONS. No. 356. Stewed Carp a la Marquise. Cook the fish as above, and when done, dress it on a dish without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, reduce it over a fire until rather thick, then add a gill of whipt cream, two tablespoonfuls of capers, and two of chopped gherkins; pour over the fish, then sprinkle two tablespoon- fids of chopped beet-root over it, and serve. No. 357. Carp with caper sauce. Cook the fish as above, and dress it without a napkin; then put twenty-five tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, and when nearly boiling add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; stir it till the butter melts, then add four tablespoonfuls of capers, and pour over. This sauce must be rather thick. No. 358. Carp fried. Open the fish down the back with a sharp knife from the head to the tail, cutting off half the head, so that the fish is quite flat; break the backbone in three places, but allow the roe to remain; then dip the fish in flour, and fry it in hot lard; dress it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve plain melted butter, well seasoned, in a boat. No. 359. Tench en matelote. This fish, though not much thought of by our first-rate epicures, is, according to my opinion, superior to carp; in a matelote it is excellent. Have your fish prepared for cooking, and put them into a small fish-kettle (with a drainer); and if two middle-sized fish, put two onions, half a carrot, one turnip, three bay- leaves, a bunch of parsley, four cloves, a blade of mace, ten POISSONS. 145 allspice, lialf a pint of port wine, and half a pint of broth in the kettle with them; place them over a moderate fire, stew them half an hour, or more if required; when done drain them well; dress without a napkin, and pour a mate¬ lote sauce (No. 62) over them. No. 360. Tench a la Beyrout. Stew the fish exactly as above, dress them without a napkin, and pour a sauce Beyrout (No. 64) over them. No. 361. Tench a la Poulette. Stew the fish as before, only use bucellas instead of port wine; then peel thirty button onions, pass them in a stew- pan (over a fire) with a little powdered sugar and butter till they are covered with a white glaze; then add two glasses of bucellas wine, boil it three minutes; then put twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce, and ten of the stock from the fish in with it, and let it simmer on the corner of the fire till the onions are quite done, keeping it well skimmed; then season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, and add twenty muscles (blanched), a little chopped parsley, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice; take it off the fire, stir in four tablespoonfuls of liaison, and pour over the fish; serve very hot. The sauce requires to be thick enough to well cover the fish. No. 362. Tench sauce aux Moules. Stew the fish as before, dish it up without a napkin, have ready a muscle sauce (No. 70) pour it over the fish, and serve very hot. No. 363. Tench fried or broiled. Is very good served with anchovy or shrimp sauce in a boat. 10 146 POISSONS. No. 364. Perch a la Hollandaise . Have three middling-sized fishes ready prepared for cook¬ ing ; then put two ounces of butter, two onions (in slices), one carrot (cut small), some parsley, two bay-leaves, six cloves, and two blades of mace in a stewpan; pass it five minutes over a brisk fire, then add a quart of water, two glasses of vinegar, one ounce of salt, and a little pepper; boil altogether a quarter of an hour, and pass it through a sieve into a small fish-kettle; then lay the fishes into it, and let them stew twenty or thirty minutes over a moderate fire; dress them on a dish without a napkin, and pour a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over them. No. 365. Perch a la Maitre cVHotel. Prepare and cook your fish as above; then put twenty tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, and when it is upon the point of boiling, add a quarter of a pound of Maitre d’Hotel butter (No. 79) and pom the sauce over the fish, which dress on a dish without a napkin. No. 366. Small Perches en water souchet. Cut four small fishes in halves, having previously taken otT all the scales, and proceed precisely as for Flounders en water souchet (No. 331). No. 367. Small Perches frits au heurre. Scale and well dry six perches, and make incisions here and there on each side of them; then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saute-pan, season your fishes with pepper and salt, put them in the saute-pan and fry them gently, turning them carefully; when done, dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve without sauce. In my opinion, they are much better cooked this way POISSONS. 147 than boiled or stewed; large fish may also be done this way, but they require more butter, and must cook very slowly. No. 368. Trout plain boiled. Trout that is caught in a river or running stream is pre¬ ferable to that caught in a lake or pond; although I have had very fine ones from ponds, they have invariably tasted muddy; in fact a running stream is better for all fish in this respect; but still water most affects the flavour of the trout. Prepare the fish for cooking, and boil it in salt and water; if it weighs two pounds, allow it half an hour, and more in proportion; dress it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve shrimp-sauce in a boat. No. 369. Trout a la Maitre d’Hotel. Stew the fish like perch, allowing more time in proportion to the size; dress them on a dish without a napkin, and sauce the same as Perche a la Maitre d’Hotel (No. 365). No. 370. Trout a la Genoise. Stew the fish as above, dress it on a dish without a nap¬ kin, and pour a sauce Genoise (No. 63) over it. No. 371. Baked Trout. Proceed exactly the same as for baked pike (No. 343.) No. 372. Trout a la Beyrout. Dry your fish with a cloth, flour it, and lay it on the gridiron; broil it nicely over a moderate fire; when done, peel off all the skin ; dish it without a napkin, and pour a sauce Beyrout (No. 64) over it. 148 POISSONS. No. 373. Fillets of Trout a la Mazarine. Fillet a fish, and cut each fillet in halves; fry it in butter, like perch, dress it round on a dish, and pour a sauce Maza¬ rine over them. For sauce, see Turbot a la Mazarine, No. 207, or they may be served with a matelote sauce in change. No. 374. Eels fried. Cut the eels in pieces about three inches long, dip them in flour, egg and bread-crumb, and fry them in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve shrimp-sauce in a boat. No. 375. Eels a la Tartare. Cut the eels and fry as above, have ready some Tartare sauce (No. 38) upon a cold dish, lay the eels upon it and serve immediately ; should the eels be large they must be three parts stewed before they are fried ; dry them upon a cloth previous to bread-crumbing them. No. 376. Spitchcocked Eels. Take the bones out of the eels by opening them from head to tail, and cut them in pieces about four inches long, throw them into some flour, then have ready upon a dish about a couple of handfuls of bread-crumbs, a tablespoon¬ ful of chopped parsley, a little dried thyme, and a little cayenne pepper, then egg each piece of eel and bread-crumb them with it, fry them in very hot lard, dish them on a napkin, and serve shrimp-sauce in a boat. No. 377. Stewed Eels. Cut the eels in pieces as before, and tie each piece round with packthread, then put them into a stewpan with an POISSONS. 149 onion, a tablespoonful of white wine, three cloves, three whole allspice, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, and a little white broth, sufficient to cover them; place them over a moderate lire, and let them stew gently for half an horn or more, if required, (according to the size of the eel,) take them out, drain them on a napkin, dish them without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce : put a tea¬ spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with four table- spoonfuls of white wine, and eight ditto of brown sauce (No. 1), let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour, keeping it stirred, then add a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies and a little sugar, and pour over your eels. No. 378. Eels en matelote. Stew the eels as above, dress them without a napkin, and pour a sauce matelote (No. 62) over them. They may also be served with a sauce a la Beyrout (No. 64). No. 379. Lampreys. Are fish not so often used as eels, though they are re¬ markably good eating; but I think they have got out of repute by being so often served underdone; they may be stewed in the same manner as eels, (only a lamprey requires double the time stewing that an eel of the same size would require), and serve with the same sauces, with matelote sauce especially; if you fry or broil them they must be three parts boiled beforehand; to try when done run a trussing needle into them, if it goes in easy they are done. No. 380. Crawfish. These are very favourite little shell-fish, and much used in France, but seldom served as a dish in this country (they are not good when in s awn); for a dish have two dozen of them and wash in several waters (choose them as 150 POISSONS. near as possible of equal sizes), then put them in a st.ewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, six bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, six cloves, twelve pepper¬ corns, half an ounce of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a quarter ditto of cayenne, two glasses of vinegar, four of sherry, and half a pint of broth ; place them over a very brisk fire for twenty-five minutes, stirring them occasionally, take them off the fire and let them cool in their stock, put them in a basin, cover them with the stock, but strain the vege¬ tables away from them, and use for garnishing where di¬ rected ; to make a dish dress them on butter in the form of a bush, mingling very green double parsley with them. There are some few other sorts of fresh-water fish not very frequently used, which may be fried, boiled, or stewed, in some of the ways as described in the foregoing list. IIORS-D’CEUVRES, OR DISHES TO BE HANDED ROUND THE TABLE. No. 381. Petits Vol-au-Vents a la Moelle de Pceuf. Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it half an inch in thickness, then cut out your vol-au-vents with a fluted cutter rather larger than a five-shilling piece; have ready a baking sheet, (on which you have sprinkled some water,) and put your vol-au-vents on it, egg them over with a paste brush, and cut a top with a small plain cutter, which is done by dipping the cutter into hot water, and just marking a ring upon the top of each vol-au- vent, but do not cut.it deep, then put them in a very warm oven, and pay particular attention to the baking of them, which will occupy about twenty minutes, keep the oven door shut as much as possible, take them out when done, and with the point of a knife take off the lid without break¬ ing it, and take out the soft paste remaining inside, leaving them cpiite empty, they are then ready for immediate use; prepare the marrow as follows: take all the marrow from a beef marrow-bone, in as large pieces as possible, have ready on the fire a stewpan of boiling water, into which throw the marrow, and let it boil ten minutes, then take it out carefully and put it in cold water, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135) and a small piece of glaze, and reduce it till it becomes rather thick, then cut the marrow in dice about a quarter of an inch square, and two minutes before serving throw it into the sauce, with two large quenelles (No. 120) also cut in dice, whilst boiling, previously draining them upon a cloth; warm it (prickly, season with a little salt 152 HORS-D (EUVRES. and sugar if required, fill the vol-au-vents, and dress them on a napkin pyramidically; serve very hot. No. 382. Petits Vol-au-Vents au laitance cle Maquereau. Make the vol-au-vents as in the previous article, put two ounces of butter into a saute-pan, rub it over the bottom, have ready four soft roes of mackerel, then put into the saute-pan with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice; set them over a moderate fire five minutes, turn them, and when done cut them in small dice, but let them remain in the saute-pan, then add eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and two of light broth, a little sugar, and two or three tablespoonfuls of cream; stir it over the fire and mix it well without breaking the roes, fill your vol-au-vents, and serve very hot on a nap¬ kin ; carp roes may be served in the same manner. No. 383. Petits Vol-au-Vents au foiede Paie. Make the vol-au-vents as above; boil the fiver of a skate in salt and water an hour, let it get cold, put six table- spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of light stock, and reduce it till rather thick, then add a little chopped parsley, three tablespoonfuls of cream, a little white pepper, sugar, and salt, if required; cut the liver in small dice, with four quenelles (No. 120), put it in the stewpan, make it hot, but do not stir it much or you will break it, add a little lemon-juice, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve as before. These patties, although seldom served, are very excellent if well done and nicely seasoned. No. 384. Petits Vol-au-Vents aux Huitres. Prepare the vol-au-vents as before, put eight tablespoon- fuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with a little cayenne pep¬ per, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, two peppercorns, hors-d’ceuvres. 153 half a blade of mace, and six tablespoonfuls of liquor from the oysters, reduce it till very thick, have ready, blanched and bearded, two dozen oysters (No. 342), cut each oyster in four pieces, put them in the sauce, (previously taking out the pep¬ percorns and mace,) with a little salt, sugar, and lemon- juice, make it hot over the fire, add a little cream, but do not let it boil, or the oysters would become tough and the sauce very thin : fill the vol-au-vents and serve on a napkin as before. No. 385. Petits Vol-au-Vents de Homard. Prepare the vol-au-vents as usual, put eight tablespoon¬ fuls of white sauce (No. 7), and four of light stock, in a stewpan, with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and a teaspoon¬ ful of essence of anchovies, boil it ten minutes, then cut a small hen lobster up in large dice, pound the red spawn from it with one ounce of butter, pass it through a hair sieve and mix Avitli the sauce; put in the lobster, make it hot, fill your vol-au-vent, and serve as before. N. B. The last four dishes may be made maigre by substituting melted butter or oyster sauce for white sauce. No. 386. Petites Bouchees a la Moelle de Bcevf. Are made in the same manner as the petits vol-au-vents, but the paste must not be more than a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the bouchees must be cut with a fluted cutter not larger than half'-a-crown piece, bake them in a warmer oven than the vol-au-vents, prepare the beef mar¬ row, fill and serve the same as No. 381. No. 3S7. Petites Bouchees au laitance de Maquer.eau. Make the bouchees as before, and prepare the mackerel roes the same as for petits vol-au-vents (No. 382). No. 388. Petites Bouchees au foie de Raie. Prepare them as usual, and proceed as for No. 383. 154 HORS-D CEUVRES. No. 389. Pelites Bouchees aux Ihdtres. Prepare them as before, and proceed as for vol-au-vents (No. 384). No. 390. Petites Bouchees de Homard. Prepare them as before, and proceed as for vol-au-vents (No. 385). No. 331. Petites Bouchees a la Peine. Prepare them as usual, pick the meat of the half of a braised chicken, and cut it in very small dice (not larger than peas), cut about the same size one ounce of cooked tongue, six blanched mushrooms, and two middling-sized French truffles; mix altogether, then put twenty table- spronfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight of m UK, reduce it to one half, then add the minced fowl, tongue, &c., season with a little lemon-juice, pepper, salt, sugar, and two spoonfuls of cream; serve them very hot on a napkin. No. 392. Petites Bouchees a la puree de Volatile. Prepare them as before, take about half a pound of the flesh of chicken, turkey, or any description of poultry; pound it well in a mortar, with half an ounce of lean boiled ham, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stew- pan, with half an ounce of butter, pass them over the fire, stirring them with a wooden spoon, then add a little flour, mix it well with the butter and eschalots, then add the pounded meat, four spoonfuls of white sauce, and half a pint of good stock that the bones of the poultry have been previously boiled in, boil altogether a quarter of an hour, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, pass it through a tammie by rubbing it with two wooden spoons, put it into another stewpan, boil it, finish with a table- hors-d’ceuvres. 155 spoonful of liaison, fill the bouchees, and serve on a napkin very liot. No. 393. Petites Bouchees de Gibier. Prepare the bouchees as before, put twenty tablespoon- tuls of game sauce (No. 60) in a stewpan, then cut up into small dice the flesh of a grouse, partridge, half a pheasant, or the remains of any game you might happen to have by you, put it in the stewpan with the sauce, make it hot but do not let it boil, season with a little sugar and salt, fill and serve as before. No. 394. Petites Bouchees a la puree de Gibier. Prepare them as before, and proceed as for the petites bouchees a la puree de volaille, (No. 392) only using the flesh of game, and game sauce, instead of the flesh of poultry and white sauce. No. 395. Petits Pates a la Pdtissiere. Make one pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it into a sheet a quarter of an inch in thickness, then cut twenty pieces of the size of a five-shilling piece with a plain round cutter; mix the remains of the paste together, and roll them out to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, and cut twenty more pieces from it with the same cutter, sprinkle a baking sheet with water and lay them on it a little distance apart, wash them over with a little water with a paste brush, then have ready prepared in a basin half a pound of forcemeat of veal, fowl, or game (Nos. 120, 122, 123), with which mix half an ounce of beef marrow chopped very fine, one eschalot, a little parsley also chopped fine, and the yolk of an egg; mix well together with a wooden spoon, then put a little lump of the forcemeat half the size of a walnut on each piece of paste on the baking sheet, 156 hors-d’ceuvres. cover them over with the twenty pieces of paste you first cut, and close them well at the edges by pressing them down with the top part of a smaller cutter, egg the tops over, but be careful that the egg does not run down the sides, or it would prevent the patties from rising straight, put them in rather a hot oven and bake them about twenty minutes ; dish them in pyramid on a napkin and serve ; to be good they should be served directly they are taken from the oven ; care should be taken not to put too much forcemeat in them, or it will upset them in baking. No. 396. Petits Pates aux Huitres a la Patissiere. Proceed as above, but instead of using forcemeat use some of the salpicon of oysters as prepared for the rissoles aux huitres (No. 399). No. 397. Petits Pates de Homard a la Patissiere. Proceed as above, using some of the salpicon as prepared for the rissoles de homard (No. 400). No. 398. Petits Pates of Shrimps or Prawns a la Patissiere. As before, using the salpicon of shrimps as prepared for rissoles of shrimps or prawns (No. 401). No. 399. Rissoles aux Huitres. Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew- pan, with half an ounce of butter, place it over the fire, fry the onions, but they must be kept white; then add half a teaspoonful of flour, and twelve of oyster liquor, (mix well) and eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), boil alto¬ gether ten minutes (or more till it becomes rather thickish), keeping it stirred the whole time, season with a little cayenne pepper, and salt, (it requires to be seasoned rather high,) then have ready blanched three dozen of oysters, cut 157 hors-d’oeuvre. each into four pieces, dry them on a cloth, and put them into the sauce, let them boil two minutes, add a few drops of essence of anchovies, and three yolks of eggs, stir again over the fire a minute to set the eggs, then put it out on a dish and set it to get cold; make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it ten times, (or the trimmings of paste previously made will do,) roll it out as thin as a shilling, then cut it out with a round cutter the size of the top of a small teacup, lay a teaspoonful of the preparation of oyster on each piece, wet it round with the paste brush, turn one edge over on to the other and close it well, then egg and bread-crumb them, fry in very hot lard (enough for them to swim in), when done dish them on a napkin, gar¬ nish with fried parsley and serve very hot; it will take about five minutes to fry them. No. 400. Rissoles de Homard. Put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with half an ounce of fresh butter, fry them white, then add ten or fifteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (according to the size of the lobster), stir over the fire and let it boil five minutes, or more, until rather thick, have a fresh lobster cut up into small dice, put it into the sauce, season with cayenne pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, juice of a lemon, and a few drops of essence of anchovies, let it boil a minute, then add two yolks of eggs, stir it over the fire another minute, to set the eggs, and pom it out on a dish to get cold; make and serve the rissoles as in the last article. No. 401. Rissoles of Shrimps. Prepare the salpicon exactly the same as the lobster in the last article, but be careful that the shrimps are not too salt prawns are better for this purpose than shrimps ; they require but very little seasoning ; make, fry, and serve the rissoles as before. 158 HORS-d’(EUVRE. No. 402. Rissoles de laitances de Maquereau. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saute-pan, rub it over the bottom, lay in the soft roes of four mackerel, sea¬ son them with a little white pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and a very little chopped parsley; place them over a moderate fire five minutes, turn them, but do not let them get the least brown; when quite done cut them into small dice without breaking, then put half a tea¬ spoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with a few drops of salad oil; fry them quite white, then mix half a teaspoonful of flour with them, and ten tablespoon fids of white sauce (No. 7), stir it over the fire, and boil till it becomes very thick (as the roes of mackerel are so very delicate), season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and a little sugar if required; then put in two yolks of eggs, mix well, and add the mackerel roes, stir it very gently over the fire till the eggs become set, then put it on a dish to get cold; make, dress, and serve the rissoles as before. This delicate hors-d’oeuvre requires great attention and proper seasoning. No. 403. Rissoles de Gibier. Roast a grouse or any other bird rather underdone, or the remains of some game left from a previous dinner will do, pick the meat off the bones and cut it into very srqall dice; then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stew- pan, with a quarter of an ounce of butter, fry them rather brown, add ten tablespoonfuls of game sauce (if none, make some with the bones as directed, No. GO), and four of brown ditto (No. 1), reduce over the fire till it becomes rather thick, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a teaspoonful of wine; let it boil, then add the game, with a little sugar and 159 HORS-d’(EUVRE. two yolks of eggs, stir it gently over the fire just to set the eggs, pour it on a dish to cool; make, dress, and serve the rissoles as before. No. 404. Rissoles de Volatile. Cut half a roast (or boiled) fowl up into very small dice, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, fry them quite white, then add sixteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), put it over the fire to reduce till it is rather thick, put the fowl into the sauce, season with a little salt, white pepper, sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a little chopped parsley; let it boil a few minutes, then stir in the yolks of two eggs, let them set, and pour it on a dish to cool (a little ham or tongue may be mixed with the above, if required;) make, fry, and serve the rissoles as before. Rissoles may also be made of turkey, pigeons, veal, lamb, sweetbread, &c., by following the above receipt, and using either one or the other of those articles instead of fowl. No. 405. Croustade de Beurre. Have ready a lump of fresh butter very hard and cut it into slices one inch and a half in thickness, lay them upon a table or slab in a cool place; then take a round cutter the size of half-a-crown, and with it cut twelve pieces of the butter out of the slices, beat up three or four eggs on a plate, put the pieces of butter into them, then take them out and throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, take them out, throw them again into the eggs, and then the bread¬ crumbs, repeating the process three times, lay them upright upon the table, and mark a ring a little larger than a shilling on the top of each with a smaller cutter, stand them in a wire basket and fry in very hot lard, of a nice light- brown colour, and very crisp, take them out, take off the 160 hors-d’ceuvre. lids, empty them with care, and you will save nearly all the butter from them, turn them topsy-turvey in a dry place until wanted; when ready to serve put them in the oven a short time to get hot, and fill with any of the preparations for petites bouchees. You may form the croustades in dia¬ monds, or any shape your fancy dictates; they make very beautiful hors-d’oeuvres, and very cheap, as with care you may save the butter, which when cold may be applied to any other purpose. No. 406. Croustade de Beurre a la Duke of York. Prepare the croustades as above, and make a good puree of fowl (as for petites bouchees a la puree de volaille, No. 392), then peel a good sized cucumber, cut it in pieces two inches long, and divide each piece into three lengthwise, take out the seeds, and stew the pieces of cucumber till very tender, with a little sugar, onion, and broth, keeping them very white; when cold cut them in small dice, mix with the puree of fowl, fill the croustades, and serve very hot with a plover’s egg upon the top of each. No. 407. Croquettes de Homard. Prepare a salpicon of lobster the same as for rissoles de homard ; when quite cold cut it out in pieces two inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, beat up three or four eggs on a plate, and throw each piece into them and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, take them out, roll them lightly with the hand, beat them gently with a knife to make the crumbs stick, then throw them again into the eggs and bread-crumb, smooth them again with a knife, fry in hot lard, and dress them on a napkin garnished with fried'parsley ; they may be made in the form of pears or any way that fancy dictates, giving them the shape pre¬ vious to bread-crumbing them. Croquettes may be made hors-d’ceuvre. 161 of any of the preparations for rissoles by following the above direction. No. 408. Aiguillettes de Bis de Veau. For these kind of hors-d’oeuvres it is necessary to have twelve small silver skewers, about four inches long and the thickness of a packing-needle, with a ring or fancy design on the top, they are not very expensive but are very novel for this description of dishes; the persons eating what is served upon them taking the head of the skewer with the fingers of their left hand and picking it off with their fork. Boil three throat sweetbreads in water ten minutes, pour off the water and add one onion, one carrot, one turnip, two bay-leaves, and a pint of white broth, let them simmer about twenty minutes till firm, then take them out of the broth lay them on a clean cloth, cut them in pieces, with a long round cutter, about the size of a shilling, and season with pepper and salt; then chop two eschalots very fine and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of but¬ ter ; fry them quite white, add ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of light stock, reduce until rather thick, add two yolks of eggs and the juice of half a lemon, take it off the lire, but do not let it boil after the yolks of eggs are in, then dip each piece of sweetbread into the sauce with a fork, and lay them on a dish till cold, then run the skewers through the centre of each piece, putting two pieces on each skewer, have ready four eggs well beaten on a plate, dip each skewer into the eggs and then into the bread-crumbs twice over, fry in hot lard, and serve them very hot on a napkin. No. 409. Aiguillettes ( escalopes ) aux Huitres. Put eighteen tablespoonfuls of good oyster sauce (No. 69) into a stewpan, reduce it until rather thick, then add two li 162 hors-d’ceuvre. yolks of eggs, stir them well in, and take it off the fire ; choose rather small oysters, have them ready blanched and bearded, dip them one by one into the sauce with a fork, and lay them on a dish to cool; when quite cold run the skewers through (placing five on each skewer), dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over as before, fry them in hot lard, and serve very hot on a napkin. No. 410. Aiguillettes ( escalopes ) de Homcird. Cut forty pieces of lobster the size round of a shilling, and one inch in thickness, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a very small piece of butter, fry them quite white, then add eight tablespoonfuls of oyster sauce (No. 69), reduce till rather thick, season with a little sugar, cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon, finish with the yolks of two eggs, dip the pieces of lobster into it and proceed as before; fry, dish, and serve in the same manner; the onions may be avoided if objectionable. No. 411. Aiguillettes de filets de Sole . Fillet a sole, butter a saute-pan, lay in the fillets, season with pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon, place them over a slow fire and when done lay them flat on a dish, place another dish on them, upon which put a four pounds weight, when cold cut them in pieces with a cutter the size of a shilling, prepare oyster sauce as above, dip each piece in the sauce and proceed exactly as before. No. 412. Aiguillettes aux Huitres. Make a preparation of oysters the same as for rissoles aux huitres, adding one more yolk of egg; Avhen cold make thin croquettes two inches long, egg and bread-crumb them once, pass a silver skewer through each, then egg and 163 hors-d’geuvre. bread-crumb again, fry and serve on a napkin with fried parsley. No. 413. Aiguillettes tie Homard. Make the preparation as for croquettes de homard (No. 407), and proceed exactly as in the last. No. 414. Aiguillettes de Sole. Make a preparation as for croquettes de homard, only using the fillets of soles instead of lobster, and proceed as before. No. 415. Aiguilettes de Volaille a la jolie jille. Make a preparation as for rissoles de volaille (No. 404), but adding tongue, truffles, and pistachios cut in small fillets; when cold make them into croquettes about two inches long, but do not bread-crumb them; pass a silver skewer through, then have ready some batter for frying (No. 1285), hold each skewer by the head, pour some batter over each croquette with a spoon, covering every part of them, and fry in lard, but not too hot, as they must be quite white and crisp ; dress them on a napkin and serve very hot. For Aiguilettes de Gibier a la jolie fille proceed exactly as above, only using game in the preparation in¬ stead of fowl. In France hors-d’oeuvres are made of tastefully dressed anchovy salads, olives, &c., to invigorate the appetite, which is unrequired at this almost the commencement of the dinner. 164 REMOVES. No. 416. Cro ustcides of Bread for removes. Although it is against my principle to have any unneces¬ sary ornamental work in a dinner, I am rather partial to these croustades, they being simple and very elegant. It would be quite useless my attempting to explain by receipts the manner in which they are made, as so much depends upon the taste and skill of the artist. Having invented several new removes requiring croustades of different de¬ signs, I have had them engraved, and think I may say that the whole of the designs there represented are quite original. These croustades are cut out of one or two loaves of bread; when cut in separate pieces they are joined by running a silver skewer (or attelet) through them; the body of the croustades is fried in lard, of a nice straw-colour, and the small ornaments attached are cut with cutters and fried in oil, some must be kept quite white and others allowed to get very black; they are fixed to the body of the croustade with a stiffish paste made of whites of eggs and flour; my reason for departing from the old-fashioned custom of placing them in the centre of a dish and putting them at the head, is that it facilitates the carving, and you are not so subject to get pieces of it in your plate with the sauce, besides which I think it has a more novel appear¬ ance, and makes the dish more elegant. No. 417. To obtain , lard, and dress a fillet of Beef . A fillet of beef can only be procured in this country by purchasing a rump and sirloin together, (in France it is sold as a separate joint,) but the rump and sirloin can be REMOVES. 165 used for other dishes, or for the servants’ meals, and in families where they kill their own meat, it is of no conse¬ quence. To cut out the fillet lay the rump and sirloin upon the table, the inside uppermost, then pass your knife along close to the chine bone, keeping the knife close to the bone until you get past the fillet, then commence cut¬ ting upwards through the fat, which trim from the fillet, except a little at the sides, then with a sharp knife take all the skin from the top of the fillet, beat it lightly, and lard it nicely lengthwise with small lardons of fat bacon, two inches in length, and the thickness of a quill; have pre¬ pared and cut in slices six onions, two carrots, two turnips, one head of celery, one leek, a handful of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, and six bay-leaves, moisten with a teacup¬ ful of salad oil, lay your fillet on a large dish and cover with the vegetables, let it remain thus all night; to cook it run a lark spit through the length of the fillet, lay all the vegetables upon four sheets of paper, (or more, for if not sufficient paper it will burst and the vegetables fall in the dripping-pan,) lay the fillet upon them, cover and tie it up surrounded with the vegetables; baste it well when you first put it to the fire, to prevent the paper from burning, roast an hour and a half or a little longer before a good fire; when done, take it from the vegetables, glaze the larded part, brown lightly with the salamander, and it is ready to be sauced and served. It may also be roasted without the vegetables, but then an horn’ would suffice. No. 418. Fillet of Beef a la Joan tVArc. Prepare and cook the fillet as described, then cut a croustade in the form of a breast-plate (see plate), fix it at the head of the dish upon paste, then lay your fillet in the middle of a dish, make a small border of mashed potatoes round, upon which alternately place a small que- 166 KEMOVES. nelle (No. 120) and a small fillet of tongue, to match; proceed in like manner all the way round, then have ready nicely boiled twenty heads of fine asparagus, cut half of them five inches in length, and the remainder three inches, dress them inside of the croustade on the top to represent arrows, pom a jus d’eschalotte sauce (No. 16) over the fillet, glaze the quenelles and tongue, and serve very hot. No. 419. Fillet of Beef a la Bey rout. Prepare and dress the fillet as before, then cut a crous¬ tade of bread representing the wall of a citadel, form the cannons with stewed carrots, and the balls with truffles, place it on mashed potatoes at the head of the dish, lay the fillet in the centre, make a border of mashed potatoes round, rather high, close to the croustade on each side, but di¬ minishing as you go from it; have ready twenty crawfish, place them on the potatoes, tails upwards, pom a sauce Beyrout (No. 64) round the fillet; glaze and serve. I must here observe that as crawfish are frequently served to garnish calf’s head, I see no impropriety in using them to garnish beef. No. 420. Fillet of Beef au jus (T Orange. Prepare and dress the fillet as described (No. 417), dish it up plain and serve with jus d’orange sauce (No. 17) over it. No. 421. Fillet of Beef au jus de Tomate. Prepare and dress the fillet as described above, dish it up plain, pour the sauce au jus de tomate (No. 12) round it ; glaze and serve very hot. No 422. Fillet of Beef Napolitaine. Prepare and dress the fillet as described (No. 417), place it in the centre of the dish, have ready two croustades, the REMOVES. 167 shape and size of scallop shells, fix one at each end of the fillet on mashed potatoes, and fill them with fresh scraped horseradish, then have ready the following sauce : make a mierpoix of two onions, two turnips, one carrot, one apple, a quarter of a pound of lean ham (cut in thin slices), half a clove of garlic, one bay-leaf, and three tablespoonfuls of salad oil; pass the whole twenty minutes over a slow fire (in a stewpan), then add four tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, boil it five minutes, add a pint and a half of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consomme (No. 134); reduce it to half, skim off all the oil, then add six tablespoonfuls of very red tomate sauce, one ditto of orange marmalade, and two of currant jelly, let it boil a few minutes longer, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season rather high, have ready a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins (well soaked in water for one hour), and twelve of the best quality French plums cut in quarters lengthwise, throw them into the sauce, make it hot, pour round the beef, which glaze very nicely and serve. No. 423. Fillet of Beef a la Strasbourgienne. Prepare and dress your fillets as directed, adding four glasses of sherry to the vegetables you roast it in; prepare two croustades the size and shape of scallop shells, dress your beef in the middle of the dish, placing a croustade (on mashed potatoes) at each end; have ready previously boiled two pounds of Strasburg bacon (which, from its dry nature requires soaking two days and boiling four hours), cut it in slices two inches long, and have an equal number of sliced of fried potatoes to match, make a border of mashed potatoes round the beef, and dress the slices of bacon and fried potatoes alternately upon it, have ready pre¬ pared the following sauce : put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with three of Tarragon vinegar, let if reduce to half, then add a pint and a half of brown 168 REMOVES. sauce, two spoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), a pint of consomme (No. 134), and half a tablespoonful of sugar, let it boil quickly twenty minutes, skim well, and reduce until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then have ready a lemon, peeled, sliced, blanched in boiling water, and drained on a hair sieve, which throw in the sauce, pour it round the beef, fill one of the croustades with stoned French olives, and the other with Indian pickle made hot in a little demi-glace (No. 9); serve immediately. No. 424. Fillet of Beef a la Napoliiaine. Prepare and dress the fillet as directed (No. 417), dress it plain on a dish and have ready prepared the following sauce : cut in thin slices two onions, half a carrot, one turnip, half a head of celery, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, three cloves, one blade of mace, and a quarter of a pound of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir it over a brisk fire till getting rather brown at the bottom, then add four tablespoonfuls of tarra¬ gon vinegar, let it reduce to half, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1) and a pint of consomme (No. 134), stir it until boiling, then place it at the corner of the stove to simmer a quarter of an hour, skim it, then add a table- spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little grated horseradish, and three tablespoonfuls of currant jelly; boil it quickly five minutes, and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins well washed and soaked, pour the sauce over the beef, garnish with scraped horseradish and hard-boiled eggs cut in quar¬ ters lengthwise and laid near the rim of the dish. No. 425. Fillet of Beef a la Milanaise. Prepare and lard the fillet as before, then make a stiffish paste of flour and water, roll it about half an inch in thick¬ ness and fold the fillet in it, fold it again in three sheets of REMOVES. 169 paper, tie it up at botli ends, run a lark spit through it, and just as you are going to put it down to roast open the paste, pour in three glasses of Madeira wine, close the paste well, tie it up securely, roast it two hours, take it up and remove from the paste, glaze it, brown lightly with the salamander, dish it plain, and have ready the following sauce : cut half a pound of blanched maccaroni into pieces an inch long, likewise two ounces of very red cooked tongue, six large blanched mushrooms, and four middling-sized French truffles, put twenty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, stir it over the fire five minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small quantity of cayenne, and a little sugar, add all the other ingredients, with half a pound of grated Parmesan, stir the whole over the fire to get hot, but do not break the pieces ; moisten with a little cream, pom the sauce in the dish, lay the fillet upon it, glaze and serve. No. 426. Fillet of Beef a la Bohemienne. Trim and lard a fillet as directed, cut in thin slices six onions, two carrots, three turnips, three heads of celery, and a leek; put them into a dish large enough to hold the fillet, then put a quart of vinegar into a stewpan, with a pint of broth; when it boils put in a few peppercorns, nine cloves, two blades of mace, four bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and sweet marjoram, a small bunch of parsley, half a pound of brown sugar, and a little salt, let it boil twenty minutes and pour it over the vegetables; when it gets cold lay in the fillet of beef, covering it over with the vegetables, let it remain in this pickle six days, turning it every day; when ready to cook roast it in paste as in the previous article, brown it with the salamander, serve it in the middle of the dish, make a low border of mashed potatoes round it, have ready potatoes fried (and cut in slices in the shape 170 REMOVES. of cotelettes) dish them upon the border of mashed po¬ tatoes round the beef, have ready the following sauce : put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan, when it boils add twenty French olives (stoned), twenty small pickled onions, and twenty pickled mushrooms; pour the sauce round the beef but not over the potatoes; an ounce of anchovy butter may be added to the sauce if approved of. You can also braise the fillet in a baking dish in the oven with the marinade it is pickled in. No. 427. Fillet of Beef a la Bomaine. Trim your fillet and lard it through the thick part with large pieces of cooked tongue and fat bacon, twelve pieces of each, tie it up with a piece of string, put half a pound of butter in a large stewpan, and lay in the beef with a pound of bacon cut in slices, two onions, two bay- leaves, two cloves, and ten peppercorns; place it on a sharp fire, when getting a little brown and forming a glaze, put in six glasses of sherry and a pint of consomme, (No. 134), set it over a very slow fire for two hours, moving it round with a wooden spoon occasionally; have ready blanched one pound of the best small maccaroni (No. 136); put it in a stewpan, after it is well drained from the water take up the beef, skim the fat off the gravy it is cooked with, and pass it through a sieve upon the maccaroni, add six tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, and place it over the fire; when it simmers add half a pound of grated Parmesan and half a pound of grated Gruyer cheese, move it round quickly, (it must not be too liquid, so if too much gravy from the beef reserve some of it;) season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar, put a layer of maccaroni upon your dish, then a layer of grated cheese, then the remainder of the maccaroni, egg and bread-crumb the top, sprinkle more grated cheese over, brown it with the salamander, lay the REMOVES. 171 fillet on the top, glaze, and serve very hot. Should any gravy remain porn 1 it round. No. 428. Stewed rump of Beef a la Flamande. Choose a rump of beef from twenty-five to thirty pounds, in weight, the meat dark and well covered with fat, bone and lard it slantwise through and through with very large lardons of fat bacon six inches long, chop up the bone, which put into a large stewpan, with five or six pounds of the trimmings of any other meat, one pound of lean ham, three onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, eight peppercorns, and a blade of mace : put a pint of water in the stewpan, cover and stand it over a brisk fire, stirring it occasionally till the bottom is covered with glaze, then lay in the beef, fill the stewpan with water, skim when boiling, and let it simmer on the corner of the fire for six hours; to try when it is done run a trussing-neeclle into it, if it goes in easy it is done; have ready prepared eighteen middling-sized onions, butter a saute-pan, put half an ounce of powdered sugar in it, cut a piece of the top and bottom of each onion, blanch them in boiling water ten minutes, drain well, stand them in the saute- pan, cover with stock, place them over the fire, stew till tender and the stock has become a thin glaze, have ready eighteen pieces of carrots, and eighteen turnips cut in the form of small pears, which dress in the same way as the onions, lay the rump of beef on your dish, and arrange the onions and vegetables with taste around it, using for variety any green vegetables that may happen to be in season with them; for the sauce put a quart of brown sauce in a stewpan, with the glaze from the onions and vegetables, and half a pint of good stock; season with a little pepper and salt if required, reduce a quarter of an 172 REMOVES. hour, or till it becomes rather thick, pour the sauce over the vegetables, glaze the top of the beef, brown it lightly in the oven, or with the salamander, and serve. To carve, cut it in thin slices slantingly through the thickest end, where there is most fat; if underdone it is uneatable. No. 429. Stewed Rump of Beef aux Oignons glaces. Stew the beef as directed in the last, likewise thirty-six onions, stewed in the same way as there directed; make a border of mashed potatoes round the dish, place the beef in the centre, and dress the onions round upon the potato; place a fine Brussels sprout on the top of each onion (or a little sprue grass or green peas if in season), then put a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), in a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of tomata sauce and the glaze the onions were cooked in; boil well five minutes, keeping it stirred and well skimmed, pom’ over the onions, glaze the beef, brown it until the salamander, and serve. You may put a very white cauliflower at each end of the dish, if you have any. In making the border of mashed potatoes on your dish, be sure and leave sufficient room for the beef, as you can (and it is the best way) dress the onions and garniture on it first, and not place the beef on till ready to serve; for the fat running from the beef it would spoil the appearance of the sauce if it remained long on the dish before serving. No. 430. Stewed Rump of Beef a la Voltaire. Dress the beef as before, then blanch two white winter cabbages (savoys) in salt and water ten minutes; take them out, and lay them on a sieve to drain; then make a mier- poix of two onions, half a carrot, one turnip, one head Oi celery, one leek, a little parsley, thyme, one bay-leaf, and half a pound of lean ham, all cut up very small; put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry five REMOVES. 173 minutes, keeping them stirred; then squeeze the cabbage quite dry, lay it in the stewpan with the vegetables and a quart of veal stock, place it over a slow fire to stew for one hour, or till quite tender, take out the cabbage (save the stock), lay it on a cloth, turn the end of the cloth over it, squeeze it rather dry, and make a long roll of it (about the size round of half-a-crown piece), cut it in pieces about an inch in length, and dress them on the dish round the beef ; a small onion dressed as before may be placed on the top of each piece with a nice Brussels sprout between; and sur¬ round the whole with small fried sausages ; for sauce, skim off the fat from the broth the cabbage was stewed in; put half a pint of it in a stewpan, with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), place it on the fire, and reduce it to one-half; add a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, and pom the sauce over the cabbage, glaze and salamander the beef, and serve; this remove is very good, and a similar dish is reputed to have been a great favourite of the celebrated man from whom I have named it. No. 431. Stewed Mump of Beef a la Bortugaise. Stew the beef as before, peel eight Portugal onions, boil them in a gallon of water till nearly tender, take them out and drain them; butter a convenient sized stewpan, put in the onions with two ounces of sugar, just cover them with good veal stock, and stew them until the stock is reduced to a thinnisli glaze, and adheres to them; place the beef on the dish, and dress the onions round it at equal distances apart, and between each onion place a small but nice white cauliflower; for the sauce, add a quart of brown sauce, with the glaze from the onions; reduce it to half over the fire, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, let it boil, throw in forty Prench olives ready stoned, pom the sauce over the vegetable, glaze the beef, salamander, and serve. 174 REMOVES. No. 432. Stewed Mump of Beef a la Joan d’Arc. Stew the beef as before, and proceed the same as for Fillet of beef a la Joan d’Arc (No. 418). 433. Stewed Mump of Beef a la Bey rout. Stew the beef as before, and proceed as for Filet de bceuf a la Beyrout (No. 419). No. 434. Stewed Mump of Beef a la Macedoine de legumes. Stew the rump as before, then peel forty young carrots, the same number of young turnips; tie up ten small bunches of green spring onions, butter a saute-pan, place them in it with a tablespoonful of sugar (leave the stalks of the onions about an inch and a half in length), half cover them with some good stock, and let them simmer until quite tender; cook the turnips and carrots in the same manner, but sepa¬ rate, make a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, leaving room for the beef in the centre; dress the carrots, onions, and turnips on the potatoes tastefully, and variegate them with peas, cauliflowers, asparagus, French beans, and stewed cucumbers (No. 1064); glaze and salamander the beef on a separate dish, place it in the middle of the vege¬ tables, and have ready the following sauce : put a quart of brown sauce in a stewpan, with the stocks the vegetables were cooked in, reduce until it becomes thickish, pour over the vegetables, and serve. No. 435. Stewed Mump of Beef saucepiquante. Prepare and stew the rump of beef as before, and prepare the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with six do. of common vinegar, and half an ounce of glaze; let it reduce to half, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommee (No. 134); let it simmer half an hour, skim, and season REMOVES. 175 with a little cayenne pepper, salt, sugar, a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, one do. of chopped gherkins, and one do. of sliced gherkins; glaze and salamander the beef, pour the sauce round, and serve. No. 436. Stewed Rump of Beef sauce tomate. Prepare and stew the beef as before, glaze and salaman¬ der, pour some tomata sauce (No. 37) round, and serve. If you should have part of a rump of beef left from a pre¬ vious dinner you can cut it in slices a quarter of an inch thick, and warm them in a little consommee in a saute-pan; serve with any of the foregoing sauces, but especially the two last; the best way to warm them is to glaze them well and put them in a moderate oven about twenty minutes; do not let them boil, or they would eat very hard. No. 437. Stewed Sirloin of Beef. The sirloin, after having been deprived of its fillet, is of no use for roasting, but is equally as good as the rump when stewed; bone it carefully and lard the thick part with fat bacon, like the rump; roll it up, and tie it well with string, to keep its shape; stew it in the same manner as the rump, trim it at each end, wipe off the greasy fat lightly from the top with a clean cloth, glaze it lightly, and put it in the oven until it has obtained a light gold colour; serve with any of the sauces or garnitures used for stewed rumps of beef. No. 438. Stewed Sirloin of Beef a la Brintaniere. Prepare and stew a sirloin as described, glaze and sala¬ mander it, place a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, and at each end put a croustade of bread cut in the shape of flat vases; then have ready boiled and cut three inches in length, fifty fine heads of asparagus; dish them 176 REMOVES. in, crown upon the potatoes; then have a quart of very young peas, nicely boiled; put them into a stewpan with a * teaspoonful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and four pats of butter; toss them over the fire till the butter is melted; put them in the croustade at each end of the dish, place the beef in the centre, pour a sauce aux concombres (No. 103) round the beef and serve. (For the sauce aux concombres, see No. 103). No. 439. Ribs of Beef a la Jean Bart. Take four ribs of beef, and saw the rib bones asunder in the middle; pass your knife under, and detach them from the flap; then take the chine bones from the fleshy part, sawing them off the ribs so as to leave but about four inches of the flat rib bones underneath; then lard the thick part through and through with fat bacon like the sirloin, fold the flap over so as to form a nice square piece, tie it with string to keep its shape, and roast three hours in vegetables, in the same manner as described for fillet of beef; when done, take off the string, glaze and salamander, place it on your dish, with a square croustade of bread, with a cannon and anchor also cut from bread upon it, at the head of the dish, and have ready the following sauce: chop very fine ten eschalots, ten fresh mushrooms, and half a pound of lean ham, put them into a stewpan with four glasses of sherry and two of Chili vinegar, add a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, the rind of half a lemon, and four cloves; put them into the stewpan, let all simmer ten minutes, then add fifteen spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), twenty of white sauce (No. 7), and ten do. of consommee; reduce the sauce until rather thick, but it must be transparent, season with a little cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, if required; pass it through a tarnmie into another stewpan, boil it up, and pom round the beef. REMOVES. 177 No. 440. Ox Tongues May be served plain boiled; if a good-sized tongue, allow it from three to four horns to boil; put it in cold water, take off the skin, trim off a great part of the root, put it in hot water again a short time, dress it on a dish garnished with vegetables as for stewed rump of beef a la Flamande (No. 428), or served with spinach or a Milanaise sauce (see Fillet of Beef a la Milanaise); but when used as a remove, they are mostly served as part of the garniture of another dish. No. 441. Loin of Veal a la Cambaceres. Procure a nice white loin of veal, saw off the chump, cut off the thick skin from the thick part, then cut some lardon of fat bacon and lean raw ham, a quarter of an inch square and three inches long, with which lard the thickest end on the top; skewer the flap underneath, butter the bottom of a large flat stewpan, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and lay the veal on the top of them, the larded side uppermost; add two onions with four cloves stuck in them, one carrot, one turnip, a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay-leaves (tied together), half a pint of bucellas wine, and a quart of stock; place it over a sharp fire a quarter of an hour to boil, skim and place it in a moderate oven for two hours (according to the size), basting it every quarter of an hour with the stock; when done glaze and salamander the larded part, but put the cover of the stewpan over the other part (whilst salamandering it) as it must be kept quite white; make a low border of mashed potatoes on the dish you intend serving it on, and have ready the following garniture: you have previously boiled a Russian ox-tongue; take off the skins, and cut it in escalopes the size of five-shilling pieces; then cut up six very large French truffles, and stew two 12 178 REMOVES. cucumbers; cut in escalopes of the same size as the tongue, make them hot in separate stewpans, in a little stock, and dress them alternately on the border of mashed potatoes all round the dish; place the veal in the centre, and have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms in a stewpan with a glass of Madeira wine, two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of boiling milk; reduce it over the fire till it becomes rather thick; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season with a little sugar, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; pour a little over each piece of truffle and cucumber, and the rest in the dish ; glaze the pieces of tongue carefully, and serve. No. 442. Loin of Veal a la Macedoine de legumes. Prepare and braise the veal as before, garnish and sauce as for stewed rump of beef a la Macedoine de legumes (No. 484). No. 448. Loin of Veal a la Puree de Celeri. Prepare and braise the veal as before, without larding it ; make a border of mashed potatoes on the dish, then have twenty good heads of celery, cut off the tops within two inches of the bottom, make a puree of celery (No. 117) with the tops, and stew the bottoms in a quart of white stock, with a quarter of an ounce of sugar, until tender; dress them upright upon the border of potatoes, place the veal in the centre, and pour the puree of celery round; serve very hot; the sauce must be rather thinner than usual. No. 444. Loin of Veal a la Strasbourgienne. Poast a loin of veal in vegetables in the manner as de¬ scribed for (Fillets of Beef (No. 417), allowing it longer time according to the size ; dress it on the dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, then have ready thirty pieces of REMOVES. 179 Strasburg bacon, cut in the shape and size of cutlets; dress them on the potatoes round the veal, pour a sauce poivrade (No. 32) into the dish, but not over the bacon; glaze the bacon, and serve. 3'he Strasburg bacon being very dry, requires soaking at least twenty-four hours; it must be allowed to simmer until very tender; place it be¬ tween two dishes, with a weight upon it, and when cold cut it into the shapes required, and make them hot in good white stock. Good streaky bacon may be used instead of the Strasburg, if it is difficult to obtain. No. 445. Fillet of Veal a la Princiere. Procure a good leg of veal, cut off the knuckle just above the joint, then cut out the bone from the middle of the fillet; have ready two pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), cut half a pound of cooked ham and twenty mushrooms into very small dice, mix them with the forcemeat; season rather high with cayenne pepper, salt, and nutmeg, put the force¬ meat in the place the bone was taken from, pull the udder of the fillet round, and skewer it up, but not too tight; tie it up with string, put it on a spit, and roast it four hours in vegetables, in the same manner as described for fillets of beef; when done take it from the paper and vegetables, cut off the string, and run three or four silver skewers through it in the place of those you have taken out; the fillet must be quite white; place it on the dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress alternately a piece of tongue and a piece of bacon, each piece cut in the form of a heart, and not more than a quarter of an inch in thickness ; glaze the garniture, and have ready the following sauce : put two quarts of white sauce into a stewpan, stir it over the fire until it becomes thick, then add nearly a pint of thin cream; porn the sauce in the dish, but not over the garniture, and serve immediately; the first slice must be cut off the veal previous to its going to table. 180 REMOVES. No. 446. Fillet of Veal a la Versaillienne. Cut your fillet as before, have ready boiled an ox-tongue, trim it, cut off the root and about two inches of the tip, put it in the middle of the fillet from where you have taken the bone, and fill up the cavities round the tongue with some forcemeat (No. 120), skewer up the fillet and roast it as before; when done lay it on the dish with a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress alternately a quenelle of veal and a slice of stewed cucumber (No. 1064), then put two quarts of white sauce in a stewpan, with a pint of broth, reduce it, and add nearly half a pint of cream, pour the sauce over the garniture, and sprinkle a little chopped tarragon and chervil over it; serve as soon as possible after you have poured the sauce over, which requires to be seasoned rather high. No. 447. Fillet of Veal a la Palestine. Prepare and dress the fillet exactly as before, then peel fifty Jerusalem artichokes, and turn them in the shape of small pears; boil them nicely in salt and water, lay your fillet on a dish with a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress the artichokes, the round part upper¬ most, between each artichoke place a fine Brussels sprout; sauce the same as the last and serve. No. 448. Fillet of Veal a la Jardiniere. Prepare the fillet as before, but place a piece of boiled bacon in the centre instead of the tongue,, roast it in vege¬ tables as before, pour a sauce jardiniere (No. 100) upon a dish, sprinkle a pint of young green peas plain boiled upon it, dress a cauliflower at each end and another on each side, place the fillet in the middle upon the sauce and serve. REMOVES. 181 No. 449. Fillet of Veal a la Potagere. Prepare the fillet as before, then lard it through and through with pieces of fat bacon a quarter of an inch square and six inches long, skewer it up tight, put it on a spit and roast it as before, but twenty minutes before it is done take it out of the vegetables but not off the spit, and let it remain before the fire to brown; have ready prepared twenty middle-sized onions, and as many pieces of carrots turned in the form of pears, stew them as directed in stewed rump of beef a la Plamande (No. 428), place the fillet in the dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress the onions and carrots, with a cauli¬ flower at each end; have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half a pint of consomme and half the stock the carrots and onions were cooked in, boil it till it becomes like a thin glaze, pour over the vegetables, sprinkle about a pint of young peas nicely boiled over them if in season, and serve. No. 450. Fillet of Veal auxpetiispois. Prepare and roast the fillet exactly as the preceding, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, let it boil; have ready a quart of young peas nicely boiled, put them into the stewpan, with the white sauce, a little salt, and half an ounce of pounded sugar let it boil up, then add two ounces of fresh butter, toss them together over the fire, pour them out into the dish, lay the fillet over, and serve as soon as possible. No. 451. Neck of Veal a la puree de celeri. Take the best end of a neck of veal with about seven bones in it, cut off the chine bones to give it a nice square appearance, and roast it in vegetables as the fillets, but of 182 REMOVES. course it will not require so long; when done, dress it on a dish with a piece of boiled bacon about three inches broad at each end, make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress the bottoms of fifteen heads of stewed celery (No. 117), and sauce with a puree of celery made from the tops, as there directed; serve very hot, but glaze the veal and bacon the last thing before going to table. No. 452. Neck of Veal a la JRouennaise. Prepare a neck of veal, leaving it as long as possible, take off the skin and the chine bones, lard and braise it as for loin of veal a la Cambaceres (No. 441); when done, put three tablespoonfuls of oil into a stewpan, with two of chopped eschalots, two of chopped raw mushrooms, and two of chopped parsley, pass them ten minutes over the fire, then pour off the greater part of the oil, add half a teaspoon¬ ful of flour, mix it well, and put in eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), stir it over the fire till it becomes rather thick, then add a little salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs, mix all well together, and spread it over the larded part of the veal, egg and bread¬ crumb it, brown it lightly with the salamander, and serve a jus d’echalotte sauce (No. 16) with mushrooms in it, pour it in the dish round the veal. No. 453. Neck of Veal a la Milanaise. Braise the veal precisely as (No. 441), prepare a Mila- naise sauce (see fillet of beef a la Milanaise, No. 425) which pour into the dish and dress the veal upon it. No. 454. Neck of Veal a la Bruxellaise. Dress the veal the same as for neck of veal a la puree de celeri (No. 451), then have about one hundred Brussels sprouts, nicely boiled, put them into a stewpan, with two REMOVES. 183 ounces of butter, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and the juice ol half a good lemon, stir them gently over the fire but do not break the sprouts, pour them upon your dish, dress the veal upon them with a piece of bacon at each end, glaze them, pour half a pint of thin white sauce (No. 7) round over the Brussels sprouts and serve. No. 455. Breast of Veal. I do not consider that a breast of veal is good without the tendron (which is usually cut out and braised for en¬ trees), yet it would be impossible to roast it with the breast, for it would not be a quarter done by the time the other was; I therefore recommend the following new method: cut out the tendron, braise it as described (No. 685), let it get cold, take the other bones out of the breast, lay some forcemeat of veal (No. 120) down the centre, upon which place the tendron, roll it up, sew it with string and your trussing-needle, oil some paper, tie the veal up in it, and roast it two horns, place a sauce Soubise (No. 47) ; or jar¬ diniere (No. 100) on the dish; take the veal from the paper and lay it upon the sauce, or if preferred you may serve with a plain veal sauce made thus : put ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and the same quantity of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, let it boil ten minutes, skim it, add three tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and it is ready to serve. No. 456. Breast of Veal aux pois fins a VAnglaise. Dress the veal exactly as before, have ready boiled a a quart of fresh young peas, put them into a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a small bunch of parsley, boil them ten minutes, season with a little salt if required, pour them into your dish, glaze the veal and serve it upon them. 184 REMOVES. No, 457. Breast of Veal a la puree de celeri. Dress tlie veal as before, and serve with a puree of celery (No. 117) under it. No. 458. Breast of Veal sauce toruate. Dress the veal as before and serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) under it. Breasts of veal may be stewed like the necks, or roasted with vegetables, but they are best roasted as before described. No. 459. Calf s Head. Procure a nice white calf’s head that has been well scalded, saw it in halves, taking out the tongue (whole) and the brains, make a white stock as follows: put two carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, (cut up small), a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, four blades of mace, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, pass it over the fire twenty minutes in a long brasier large enough to lay the head in, then add a pint of water with which when boiled mix a quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon of water, two lemons in slices, and a quarter of a pound of salt; let it boil up, then lay the head in, take'care that it is well covered or the part exposed would become quite black, when boiling set it on the corner of the stove to simmer for two hours, or until it is done, which you can ascertain by pressing the cheek on the thickest part with your finger, if it gives easily it is done; let it remain in the broth until ready to serve, take it up, drain it on a clean cloth, break off the jaw-bone, lay it on your dish, surround it with six nice boiled potatoes cut in halves, and pour sauce Holland- aise (No. G6) over it, or sauce piquante (No. 27), or sauce tomate (No. 37), if preferred. To serve calf’s head for a remove for a large dinner, REMOVES. 185 when the head is done cut off the ears, take out all the bone, and set it on a large dish, place another dish upon it and press it lightly with a seven pounds weight till it gets cold, then lay it out on the table and cut it into oval pieces two inches wide and three long, make a border of mashed potatoes, warm the pieces in the stock it was boiled in, drain them on a cloth, then dish them alternately with quarters of boiled potatoes round the dish, trim the gristly part of the ears, then cut incisions in them longways with¬ out separating the edges, turn them over and they will form a frill, place a little of the brains inside of each, and the re¬ mainder with the tongue cut in halves in the centre, upon which place the ears at each end, sauce with Hollandaise as before, but if required with other sauce the quarters of potatoes must be omitted. No. 460. Calf s Head au naturel. Although calf’s head is seldom if ever dressed this way in England it is about the best method; the glutinous sub¬ stance of the head being so relishing with this sauce, all Erench epicures patronise it. Take a small calf’s head, lay it upon its skull on the table, open the under part without cutting the tongue, take out the under jaw-bones carefully, fold the cheeks under, tie it round with string, boil it three hours, (as described in the last), when done lay it upon a cloth to drain, untie the string, take out the tongue, peel it, put the point of a knife in the middle of the skull bone, it will open with facility, take off the two pieces of bone that cover the brains, and leave them exposed, place the head upon a dish with one half of the tongue on each side, (each person that partakes of it should be served with tongue and brains) ; serve the following sauce in a boat: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, a quarter 186 REMOVES. ditto of salt, a little pepper, six tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and three ditto of common vinegar; mix all well together and serve; each person should stir the sauce previous to helping themselves to it, for by standing the oil will come to the top ; the head requires to be very hot, but the sauce quite cold. No. 461. Half a Calf's Head d la Inixembourg. Procure half a calf’s head, pass your knife under the skin upon the top of the skull and saw off about two inches of the skull bone, boil it as described in the last, when done drain it on a cloth, lay it in a saute-pan, and spread the following forcemeat over it: having previously well washed the brains, cut them in slices, put two ounces of butter in a saute-pan, let it melt, then lay in the brains, sprinkle a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon • put them over a slow fire, turn them, and when done chop them fine and put them in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of chopped mush¬ rooms, a little more pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, and chopped lemon peel; mix altogether, with the yolks of two eggs ; after it is spread wash it over with eggs, with a paste-brush, sprinkle some bread-crumbs over it, place it in the oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, place it on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put into a stewpan four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one blade of mace, two cloves, one spoonful of scraped horseradish, and a glass of brandy; let it boil five minutes, add three pints of brown sauce (No. 1), and one ditto of consomme (No. 134) ; when it boils set it at the corner of the stove, skim it well and reduce it to two-thirds, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, and add two dozen of pickled mushrooms, and two dozen very small gherkins; warm altogether, finish with an ounce of anchovy butter, and REMOVES. 187 half a teaspoonful of sugar, pour the sauce round the head and serve; you may dress the whole head, cutting it up as described (No. 459), cover each piece with the force¬ meat, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve the sauce in the centre. No. 462. Tete de Veau en Tortue. Dress the head, and when cold cut it in oval pieces, as described (No. 459), make a small elevated casserole of rice in the shape of an oval vase (see No. 626), which place in the centre of the dish, make the pieces hot and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes round it, placing an ear at each end; have ready the following garniture and sauce: make a mierepoix of two onions, one turnip, half a carrot, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, all cut up in slices; put them into a stewpan, with two cloves, half a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, marjoram, winter savory, basil, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, and two ounces of butter - pass it over a lire till it becomes a little brown, then add four glasses of Madeira, two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and half a pint of broth, reduce it on a quick tire twenty minutes, skim it well, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, boil it again till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little sugar, add twenty prepared cockscombs (No. 128), six Drench truffles sliced, twenty blanched mushrooms, and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); when very hot lay the garniture in the rice casserole, and pour the sauce over the pieces of calf’s head; an attelet with a crawfish, truffle, and large quenelle upon it, may be stuck at each end of the casserole of rice in a slanting direc¬ tion. 188 REMOVES. No. 463. Calf s Head a la Pottinger. Dress and cut a head in pieces as before, make two croustades of bread, one in the shape of a cushion, and the other like a scallop-shell, make the pieces of head hot, and dress them in your dish on a border of rice (prepared as No. 626), put the croustade in the form of a cushion at one end of the dish, and the other elevated upon a piece of fried bread at the other end, in which put the brains, at each side of the dish dress an ear cut to form a frill, with a plover’s egg in each; have ready the following sauce : put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with six of the vinegar from Indian pickles, let it boil a few minutes, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of white stock, let it boil until it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan add twenty mild Indian pickles, the same number of small gherkins, and thirty cockscombs (No. 128), when hot pour the sauce over the head, stick three attelets prepared as in the last in the croustade resembling a cushion very taste¬ fully, and serve. No. 464. Calf s Head in currie. Prepare and dish the head as in the last, boil a pound of rice (see No. 129), and dish it in a pyramid in the middle, leaving a place at the top to lay in the brains ; have ready prepared the following sauce : put four onions, two apples (cut in slices), a sprig of thyme, a little parsley, a blade of mace, and six cloves into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, fry them of a light brown, add one tablespoonful of curry powder, mix it well, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of broth; boil altogether twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie, put it again into a stewpan, let it boil, season with a little salt and sugar, REMOVES. 189 pour over the head and serve very hot. If the currie is preferred browner, use a little brown gravy (No. 135); more currie powder may be added if required very hot. No. 465. Saddle of Mutton d la Bretonne. Roast a saddle of mutton quite plain (see kitchen at home), for the sauce wash and soak well a pint of young dry French haricots, put them into a large stewpan with three quarts of water (cold), an ounce of salt, and an ounce of butter; set them over a brisk fire till they boil, then set them at the corner and let them simmer for five hours, or till tender, drain them on a sieve, cut four onions in thin slices, put them in a stewpan, with three ounces of butter, stir them over the fire till they are a light brown colour, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well), and a pint of good gravy; when it boils put in the haricots, mix them well, and season with a saltspoonful of pepper, and four ditto of salt, add the gravy from the mutton, with half an ounce of glaze, pom them on the dish, dress the saddle on the top and serve. Care must be taken not to have this sauce either too thick or too thin. No. 466. Saddle of Mutton au Laver. Roast the saddle quite plain, put two pounds of fresh laver in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of catsup, four ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, four tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and one ounce of glaze, make it very hot, pom in the dish, dress the saddle upon it and serve. No. 467. Saddle of Mutton d la Polonaise. Roast a middling-sized saddle of mutton, and let it get cold, then cut off all the meat, leaving the bone and flaps uncut, stand it on a strong dish that will bear the oven; have ready some mashed potatoes rather stiff with which 190 REMOVES. build a wall round the bone and flaps, to shape it, again like the saddle, mince the meat you have cut out very fine, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a middling-sized stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, fry them a very light brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of stock, let it boil ten minutes, then add the mutton (mix well), season with pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of catsup, make it quite hot, then add three yolks of eggs, stir well over the fire for three minutes to set the eggs, put it into the saddle, egg all over with a paste-brush, cover the top with bread-crumbs, melt a little butter, which sprinkle over the bread-crumbs, put it in a moderate oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, serve in the same dish, and pour the following sauce round; put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half a pint of broth, a spoonful of catsup, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and the smallest piece of garlick imaginable scraped on the tip of a knife, boil altogether five minutes, it is then ready. This dish may be made of the remains of a saddle of mut¬ ton left from a previous dinner, by procuring sufficient mut¬ ton for mincing, and is equally as good. No. 468. Saddle of Mutton d la Marseillaise. Prepare the saddle of mutton exactly as for Polonaise, only when you put in the mince, which you have made rather stiffer, have ready prepared the following puree : cut six onions in small dice, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, let them simmer gently until quite tender, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), four ditto of white sauce (No. 7), and ten of milk, let it boil twenty minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, stir in the yolks of three eggs, stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs, let it cool a little, and spread it over the mince, egg over and bread-crumb the top, put it in a mode- REMOVES. 191 rate oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) rather thinnish round it. No. 469. Saddle of Mutton roti, braise, a la Mirabeau. Trim a nice saddle of mutton (South Down are the best, from four to five years old), take off the skin and skewer the flaps underneath, roast it in vegetables as directed for fillet of beef (No. 417), about two hours and a half will be sufficient, take it from the vegetables, glaze and salamander nicely, place it on your dish and serve with the following sauce: put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan, and when boiling add a teaspoonful of sugar, four of chopped gherkins, and two ounces of boiled beetroot cut in dice; sauce over and serve. No. 470. Saddle of Mutton, roti, braise, aux legumes glace. Roast the saddle in vegetables as in the last, glaze and salamander, dress on your dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress your vegetables prepared as for stewed rump of beef a la Tlamande (No. 428), pour¬ ing the same sauce over them. No. 471. Haunch of Mutton. This delicate joint is generally plain roasted (see Kitchen at Home); when of the first quality and properly kept it is by many compared to venison, although there is not the least resemblance, the fat of venison being so very de¬ licate and palatable that nothing can equal it, but both are very estimable. I shall give but a few simple receipts in order to preserve the flavour of this delicate joint. No. 472. Haunch of Mutton au jus de Groseilles. Roast the haunch quite plain, put twenty tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with ten of con¬ somme (No. 134), one of tomata sauce (No. 37), and an 192 REMOVES. ounce of glaze, boil it gently half an hour, then add four tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, boil up, pour it on the dish, and the moment you serve lay the haunch upon it; should you dish the haunch too soon the fat would run from it and spoil the sauce; it should be carved in the same way as a haunch of venison, then you keep the gravy from running into the sauce, and can serve it separately. No. 473. Hauncli of Mutton ala Bretonne. Plain roast the haunch, and proceed as for saddle of mutton a la Bretonne (No. 465). I No. 474. Haunch of Mutton a la Polonaise. Roast a haunch, and when cold cut out all the meat from the middle, leaving the edges (or the mashed potatoes would not stand), mince the meat, shape the haunch with mashed potatoes, and proceed as for the saddle (No. 467). You can use a haunch left from a previous dinner, if not too much cut. No. 475. Haunch of Mutton a la Bohemienne. Procure a small haunch of mutton of about twelve pounds in weight, beat it well with a rolling-pin, lay it in an earthen pan, and cover with a marinade as prepared for fillet of beef (No. 426), let it remain a week, roast it in paste in the same manner as for the haunch of venison (see No. 540); roast it three hours, take it out of the paste, glaze and salamander of a nice brown colour, put a frill of paper to the knuckle, and dress upon your dish with the following sauce round it: pass half a pint of the marinade it was pickled in through a sieve into a stewpan, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), let it boil till it becomes rather thick, skim well, add one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, pass through a tammie into a clean stew- pan, then add twenty blanched mushrooms, twenty small REMOVES. 193 pickled onions, and twenty French olives (stoned); let them warm in the sauce, which slightly flavour with a little scraped garlick sauce over. No. 476. Haunch of Mutton aux legumes glcices. Proceed as directed for the saddle (No. 470), No. 477. Leg of Mutton ct la Bohemienne. Proceed as directed for the haunch (No. 475), but of course it will not require so much time to roast (for which see Kitchen at Home). No. 478. Leg of Mutton a la Bretonne. See saddle of mutton (No. 465). No. 479. Leg of Mutton au Laver. See saddle of mutton (No. 466). No. 480. Leg of Mutton a la Provenqale. Procure a nice delicate leg of mutton, beat it well with a rolling-pin, make an incision at the knuckle in which push foiu* cloves of garlick as deep into the fleshy part of the leg as you can, roast it quite plain, and serve a thin sauce a la Bretonne (No. 465) under it, into which you have put a small piece of scraped garlick. No. 481. Gigot de Mouton de sept heaves. What! seven hours to cook a leg of mutton ! exclaims John Bull; shade of the third George protect us, why ’tis nonsense; to which I must answer you are right, it would rob it of its flavour; but still it gains another flavour which is far from being bad; and you must observe that, although there will be less nourishment it will be much easier of digestion. Well, well, methinks I hear him say, if you 13 194 REMOVES. are determined upon publishing that destructive receipt (which absurdity I am sure no one upon this soil will ever follow, or disgrace their tables with), write it in French and offend no one; but for heaven’s sake never invite me to dine with you on the day you find room for such a dish upon your table, so taking the hint I give it in my native tongue :—Desosse un assez gros gigot de mouton jusqu’a la moitie du manche ; vous assaisonnerez des lardons de sel, de # X : gros poivre, de thyme et de laurier piles, et vous piquetez le dedans de votre gigot; ne faites pas sortir vos lardons par- dessous. Quand il est bien pique, vous lui ferez prendre sa forme premiere; vous le ficellerez de maniere qu’on ne s’apercoive pas qu’on l’ait desosse; vous mettrez ensuite des bardes de lard au fond de votre braisiere, quelques tranches de jambon, les os concusses, quelques tranches de mouton, quatre carottes, six oignons, trois feuilles de laurier, un peu de thyme, trois clous de girofie, un bouquet de persil et de ciboule, deux cuillerees a pot de bouillon : vous mettrez a cuire votre gigot pendant sept heures, et le ferez aller a tres petit feu; vous en mettrez aussi sur le cou- vercle de la braisiere. Au moment de servir vous l’egoutterez, vous le deficellerez, le glacerez, et le servirez avec le mouille- ment reduit dans lequel il am‘a cuit; ay ant soin de bien- ecumer toute la graisse que votre fond est susceptible d’avoir. No. 482. Necks of Mutton a la Legumiere. Cut off the scrags and take the chine bones from two necks of mutton, lard the lean parts with lardons of fat bacon about three inches long, roast them in vegetables as for fillet of beef (No. 417) ; when done, chess them on a dish, placing fillet to fillet, so as to form a saddle; fill up the crevice between them with mashed potatoes, upon which dress small pieces of cauliflower and small bunches of aspa¬ ragus, or Brussels sprout s; make a border of mashed potatoes REMOVES, 195 round the mutton, upon which dress some onions, with pieces of carrots and turnips stewed (see stewed rump of beef a la Flamande, No. 428), place four onions at each end of the dish, and stick a fine head of asparagus in each; glaze the mutton, and pour a demi-glace (No. 9) over the vegetables. No. 488. Necks of Mutton a la Bretonne. Trim the necks as above, roast them quite plain (see Kitchen at Home), and sauce as for saddle of mutton a la Bretonne, (No. 465.) No. 484. Neck of Mutton ala Bohemienne . Proceed as for haunch of mutton (No. 475), only three days in the marinade will be sufficient. No. 485. Neck of Mutton a la Provengale. Trim a neck of mutton, lard it, and put it into a conve¬ nient sized stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip (cut in slices) six cloves, a blade of mace, and a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay-leaves; cover with white broth, and set it on the fire; when boiling, set it on the corner to simmer for two hours; take it out, and lay it on a saute- pan, spread a puree of onions as for cotelettes de mouton a la Provenyale (No. 701) over the top, egg and bread-crumb it, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, salamander a light brown, sauce with demi-glace as for the cotelettes. No. 486. Neck of Mutton a la Charte. Trim two necks of mutton as before, lard and braise as in the last article; then peel some young turnips, and cut about a pint of scoops from them the size of marbles (with an iron scoop); put a teaspoonful of powdered sugar into a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and just as it begins to 196 REMOVES. brown, add two ounces of butter, and the scooped turnips; pass them ten minutes over the fire, then add a pint and a half of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommee; let it simmer till the turnips are quite done; take them out, and put them into another stewpan, skim and reduce the sauce until it becomes rather tliickish, season a little more if required and pass it through a tammie upon the turnips, dress the necks upon a dish fillet to fillet to form a saddle; glaze, pom 1 the sauce and turnips round, have twelve pieces of turnips cut in the form of pears and stewed as (No. 1103), dress six of them, one upon the other, in pyramids at each end of the dish, and serve very hot. No. 487. Breast of Mutton panee, grillee, saucepiquante. Procure two breasts of mutton cut as large as possible, which put in a stewpan, and braise three horns in the same manner as described for neck of mutton Provengale (No. 485), previous to placing them in the stewpan tie them well up with string; when done take up, lay them on a dish, take all the string and bones from them, which will leave with facility, place another dish upon them, and press till quite cold with a fourteen pounds weight; about half an horn* before serving trim, egg and bread-crumb, beat gently with a knife, melt a little butter in a stewpan, and Avith a paste-brush butter the mutton all over, throAV them again into bread-crumbs, beat gently again with your knife, and put them on the gridiron over a moderate fire ; when lightly browned on one side, turn them by placing another gridiron over and turning both gridirons together; Avlien done, take them from the gridiron with a fish-slice, lay on your dish, and serve sauce piquante (No. 27) round, or you may serve them with dressed spinach (No. 1085), sauce Soubise (No. 47) or fines herbes (No. 26). REMOVES. 197 No. 488. Saddle of Lamb aux petits pois. Roast a saddle of lamb in vegetables, as described for fillet of beef (No. 417); when done glaze and salamander a light brown colour; put a quart of young peas boiled very green into a stewpan, quite hot, with two ounces of butter, half a tablespoonful of sugar, a little salt, and six table¬ spoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7); shake them round over the fire a few minutes, pom* them in your dish, and dress the saddle over. A saddle wi 11 require about two hours roasting. No. 489. Saddle of Laynb ct la Sevigne. Roast the saddle with vegetables as before, make a puree d’asperges (No. 102), cut two large cucumbers in pieces about two inches and a half in length; cut each piece length¬ wise in three, take out the cores, cut them in the shape of the bowl of a spoon, and stew them as described (No. 103), have ready some quenehes de volaille (No. 120), place a roll of mashed potatoes at each end of the dish; at the bottom dress half a circle, with the cucumber and quenelles, by laying them alternately in a slanting position, and at the top of the dish lay nine quenelles upon a roll of potatoes, formed like the bows of a boat, so that the first quenelle stands out in a point, and the others are brought gradually in to the ends ; place a piece of stewed cucumber cut like a diamond between each quenelle, and dress some nice heads of sprue grass in the centre, at each end of the dish ; place the saddle in the middle, and pom* the puree d’asperges (quite hot) on each side. No. 490. Saddle of Lamb a VLndienne. Roast the saddle in vegetables as before, then put a quart of sauce a l’lndienne (No. 45) into a stewpan; when 198 REMOVES. boiling and ready to serve, add thirty very mild green Indian pickles. When hot, sauce round and serve. No. 491. Saddle of Lamb derni Provengale. Roast the saddle with vegetables as before; cut six large onions in small dice, which put into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of oil; stir over a slow lire till they are quite tender, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and twelve do. of white sauce (No. 7); boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, one do. of sugar, and a quarter do. of pepper; add the yolks of three eggs, stir it over the fire half a minute, lay it out on a dish, and when nearly cold spread it over the saddle a quarter of an inch in thickness; egg and bread-crumb over, put it in a sharp oven ten minutes, salamander of a light brown, and serve with sauce demi-glace (No. 9) round it. No. 492. Saddle of Lamb a la Me/nag ere. Plain roast a saddle* and allow it to get cold, cut out all the meat, leaving the flaps untouched, shape round the saddle a wall of stiff mashed potatoes, cut the meat up in square thin slices, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan; let it boil up, put in your meat, season with lemon-juice, pepper, and salt; moisten with a little white broth, and when it is quite hot add the yolks of two eggs, mixed with four spoonfuls of cream; place it within the saddle, egg all over, sprinkle bread-crumbs on the top, and put it in a sharp oven upon the dish you intend serving it on a quarter of an hour; have ready poached eight eggs, lay them on the top, garnish round with peas, Brussels sprouts, or asparagus, nicely boiled, and pour a white demi- glace (No. 7) round; serve immediately; ham or tongue, with mushrooms cut in slices, may be added with the lamb. * See Kitchen at Home. REMOVES. 199 No. 493. Haunch of Lamb. Like the haunch of mutton, this joint is usually plain roasted, but for a change it may be roasted with vege¬ tables, and served with any of the sauces, as used for the saddle in the foregoing receipts. It will require nearly two horns roasting. The fore-quarter may likewise be dressed the same ways. No. 494. Fore-quarter of Lamb a VHoteliere. Roast a fore-quarter well covered with oiled paper, and a good distance from the fire, when done it must be a light gold colour, then put a quarter of a pound of maitre d’hotel butter (No. 79) in a stewpan, and when beginning to melt add half a pint of good cream; shake the stewpan round till hot, but not near boiling, and the moment you serve pour it upon the dish, and dress the fore-quarter upon it. No. 495. Fore-quarter of House Lamb clux pointes cVasperges. Roast the lamb exactly as in the last, have ready a sauce aux pointes d’asperges (No. 101), pour it hot on your dish, lay the lamb upon it, and serve. It will take about an hour roasting. No. 495. Ribs of Lamb a la Chanceliere. Roast a fore-quarter of lamb with vegetables (see No. 417), and when done cut out the shoulder very round, cut off all the meat from it, and mince it very fine, with half a pound of cooked ham, twenty button mushrooms, and six middling¬ sized French truffles; then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad oil; fry them of a light yellow colour, add a quarter of a table¬ spoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of stock, and a pint 200 REMOVES. of white sauce; let it boil, keeping it stirred, add your meat and the other ingredients, season with pepper and salt, and when boiling add the yolks of two eggs ; stir them in quickly, and pour the whole into the place you cut the shoulder from ; egg it over with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over, brown it lightly with the salamander, dress upon your dish, pour a sauce bechamel a la creme (No. 56), rather thin, round and serve. No. 496. Leg of Lamb a la St. John. Roast the leg in vegetables as described (see No. 417); an hour and a half would be sufficient; when done, place a paper frill on the knuckle, and lay it in your dish; have ready prepared the following sauce: put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of fresh butter, the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and two table¬ spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; place it over a moderate fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon, and when the butter has melted and begins to thicken (great care must be taken that the eggs do not curdle, which they will do if you allow it to get too hot before the butter is melted, or allow it to boil in the least), add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a little sugar; mix all well together, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, place again over the fire to get hot (but not to boil), keeping it stirred; add half a gill of cream, and if too thick a little milk, pom it over the lamb, have ready a few pistachios each cut in eight lengthwise, sprinkle over, and serve very hot. No. 497. Leg of Lamb aux pois. Roast a leg of lamb quite plain, have ready boiled, very green, two quarts of young peas, put them hot into a stew¬ pan, with three pats of butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, a little pepper, salt, and six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), REMOVES. 201 mix all well together over the fire, without breaking the peas; pour them in a dish, dress the leg over and serve. No. 498. Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach. Boil a leg of lamb quite plain, which will take from an horn and a quarter to an horn and a half (add a little milk to the water you boil it in), have ready dressed sufficient spinach to cover the bottom of the dish an inch and a half in thickness, dress the lamb upon it, and serve; to dress spinach, see No. 106. No. 499. Boiled Leg of Laynb a la Palestine. Boil a leg of lamb, dress it on your dish, and pom* a sauce Palestine (No. 87) over it. No. 500. Roast Leg of Lamb d la Jardiniere. Plain roast the lamb, have ready a sauce jardiniere (No. 87), pour it on the dish, and dress the leg upon it. The shoulder may be dressed exactly as the leg. No. 501. Shoulder of Lamb ct la Bruxellaise. Roast a shoulder of lamb with vegetables, and serve with sauce as for neck of veal a la Bruxellaise (No. 454). No. 502. Shoulder of Lamb d la Polonaise. Cut all the meat from the top of the shoulder and a little from the bottom, so as not to spoil the shape; build a wall of mashed potatoes about two inches high round it, and proceed as for saddle of mutton (No. 467). 202 REMOVES. PORK. Pork is a great favourite with some persons but scarcely ever used for removes, except plain roasted stuffed with sage and onions, that I shall describe in my Kitchen at Home, but I shall here give six new ways of dressing pork for removes; it must be of the best quality, small, and, above all, in season. No. 503. Leg of Pork sauce Robert. Score the skin of the leg with a sharp knife, oil some paper, wrap the leg up in it, and roast about two hours and a half of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following sauce : put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over a moderate fire till the onions are nicely browned, then add three table¬ spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar (let it boil), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consomme, and a little brown gravy; let it boil at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, skim it well, reduce it till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and two table- spoonfuls of Prencli mustard; when ready to serve add twenty small gherkins, twenty pickled mushrooms, twenty small quenelles (No. 120), pour the sauce in the dish, dress the leg upon it, put a paper frill on the knuckle and serve. No. 504. Leg of Pork a la Piedmontaise. Roast the leg as before, and prepare the sauce thus: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with four of Indian pickle vinegar, let boil a few minutes, then add twenty tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten ditto of consomme, let boil twenty minutes, skim well, REMOVES. 203 season with a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stone forty French olives, put them into the sauce, glaze the pork and pour the sauce round. No. 505. Loin of Pork a la Bourguignote. Trim a small loin of pork, cut off all the rind, wrap it in oiled paper, and roast of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following preparation : cut six large onions in small dice and put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter ; let them stew over a slow fire till quite tender and rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and fifteen of brown sauce (No. 1); boil twenty minutes, season with a teaspoonful of chopped sage, half ditto of sugar, and half of salt, finish with the yolks of three eggs, stir over the fire half a minute to set the eggs, and spread it over the pork half an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb over it, place it in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and serve the following sauce round it: put fifteen spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consomme in a stewpan, with two of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and half a one of Chili vinegar, boil altogether ten minutes, and finish with a little sugar, salt, and pepper, if required. No. 506. Neck of Pork a la Remoulade , a VIndienne. Trim the neck, but do not take off the rind, wrap it in oiled paper and roast as previously; make a good sauce remoulade (No. 717), to which add three tablespoonfuls of chopped Indian pickle, pour the sauce in the dish and dress the pork upon it. No. 507. Neck of Pork a la Venitienne. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, fry rather brown, then add half a 204 REMOVES. tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and twelve ditto of brown sauce, reduce it until thick, add half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one ditto of chopped mushrooms, and season with half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and cayenne pepper ; let it cool, open part of the neck length¬ wise between the skin and the flesh, put in the above pre¬ paration, tie up the neck in oiled paper and roast it, then prepare the following sauce: put two chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a spoonful of salad oil, two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze ■ boil five minutes, then add six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), six of consomme, and six ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37); boil altogether ten minutes, pom the sauce on your dish and serve the pork upon it. No. 508. Roast Rucking Rig. Procure a sucking pig of from eight to nine pounds, wash the inside and wipe it well with a dry cloth, prepare the stuffing thus : boil four large onions until quite tender, chop them very fine, with six leaves of sage, a little thyme and parsley, season with a little cayenne pepper and salt, add three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and mix it with three eggs, stuff the pig quite full, sew up the belly, put it on the spit, place it at a distance from a moderate fire (folded in buttered paper) for half an hour, then put it closer, allowing it two hours to roast, but ten minutes before it is done take off all the paper to allow it to become brown and crisp; serve plain gravy in the dish, and bread sauce with currants in it in a boat; before sending it to table take off the head and cut the pig in halves down the back. No. 509. Rucking Rig a la Ravoyarde. Take a very delicate sucking pig and prepare the REMOVES. 205 following stuffing: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stew pan, with a teaspoonful of oil, pass them over a moderate fire five minutes, add half a pound of rice previously well boiled in stock, half a pound of sausage- meat, four pats of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and three eggs; mix all well together, stuff the pig, and roast it in oiled paper, as in the last; prepare the sauce thus: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stew- pan, with one of salad oil and fry them quite white, add a wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and six tablespoonfuls of milk, let it boil a quarter of an hour, skim well, add a good tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of sugar, ditto of salt, and a little white pepper; dress the pig in the dish, pour the sauce round, and garnish with small fried sausages. No. 510. Turkey a la Nelson. Make a croustade resembling the head of a ship, as represented in the design; procure a very white nice young turkey, truss it as for boiling, leaving as much of the skin of the neck attached to the breast as possible, have ready the following stuffing: scrape an ounce of fat bacon (with a knife), put it into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, pass five minutes over a moderate fire, then add twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), let it reduce till thick, add twenty small heads of mushrooms, six French truffles cut in slices, and twelve cockscombs; mix all well together over the fire, season with a teaspoonful of pow¬ dered sugar, half ditto of salt, and a little white pepper; finish with the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs, and lay it out on a dish to get cold, then detach the skin on the breast from the flesh without breaking, and force some of the stuffing under the 206 REMOVES. skin; put the remainder in the interior of the breast, roast it in vegetables as described for fillet of beef (No. 417), but just before it is done take away the paper and vege¬ tables, and let it remain before the fire till of a fine gokl colour. Fix the croustade at the head of the dish with a paste made of white of egg and flour, make a border of mashed potatoes round the dish, place the turkey in the centre, and have ready the following garniture: fillet three fowls, lard and braise the fillets as No. 792, form the legs into little ducklings as described (No. 1024), prepare six slices of tongue of the size and shape of the fillets, and dress them round the turkey upon the mashed potatoes to form a ship. For the sauce put two glasses of Madeira wine in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar, two minced apples, a small bunch of parsley, a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, and half an ounce of glaze; let it boil a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consomme, let it boil quickly until it adheres to the spoon, stirring it the whole time, finish with a tablespoonful of red currant jelly, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season with a little salt and pepper, boil it another minute, glaze the turkey, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the pieces of tongue and serve. No. 511. Turkey a la Godard. Procure a good-sized turkey, very white and well covered until fat, truss it as for boiling, hold the breast over a charcoal fire till the flesh is set, then lard it with fat bacon very neatly, lay the turkey in a braising-pan breast up¬ wards, and pour in as much good veal stock as will nearly reach the larded part, start it to boil, skim, then place it over a slow fire to simmer for three hours, keeping some live char¬ coal upon the cover of the braising-pan, and now and then REMOVES. 207 moistening the breast with a little of the stock; when done take it up, give a nice yellow colour to the bacon on the breast, put it on your dish, and have ready the following garniture: prepare six large quenelles de volaille (No. 122), truss and roast four pigeons (No. 959), lard and cook four fine veal sweetbreads (No. 671), arrange them with taste round the turkey, and have ready the following sauce: strain half the stock the turkey was dressed in through a cloth into a stewpan, let it boil, put it on the corner of the stove, skim till you get off every particle of grease, reduce it to half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of tornata sauce (No. 37), let boil, keeping it stirred till becoming a thickish demi-glace, add two dozen cocks¬ combs, and a teaspoonful of sugar, with a little cayenne and salt if required, pom it in the dish but not over the garniture, and serve. Attelets of cockscombs and truffles are sometimes stuck in the breast, but it is an impediment to the carving, and it looks as well without. No. 512. Turkey a la Chipolata. Although this dish has been degusted by our great great grandfathers, and has been for upwards of a century one of the strongest pillars of the art, I shall here describe it, as an old proverb justly reminds me that a good thing can never get old. Truss the turkey as for boiling, and to modernize it, lard neatly the right breast, roast thirty good chesnuts which mix in a basin with one pound of sausage- meat highly seasoned, stuff the breast of the turkey with it, and braise as in the last article, when done place it upon yoiw dish, and have ready the following ragout: cut two pounds of lean bacon in long square pieces about the size of walnuts, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, put two ounces of butter in a middling-sized stewpan, with the bacon, fry till becoming rather yellowish, then add a table- 208 REMOVES. spoonful of flour, mix well, add by degrees three pints of good white stock, with a quart • of white sauce, stir over the fire till boiling, then put in forty button onions, twenty fine heads of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves; boil altogether, and when the onions are done take them with the mushrooms and bacon out of the sauce with a colander spoon, put them into a clean stew- pan, with thirty chestnuts roasted white, and eight sau¬ sages broiled, each one cut in three, reduce the sauce, keep¬ ing it stirred till it becomes the thickness of brown sauce, previously having simmered, and skimmed off all the grease, pass the sauce through a tammie upon the other ingredients, make all hot together, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, and pour over and round the turkey (except over the breast), which serve very hot. The old style used to be brown, in that case substitute brown sauce for white and omit the liaison. No. 513. Small Turkey a la Duchesse. Procure a small nice turkey, truss it as for boiling, and roast it in vegetables as usual, keeping it quite white, place it upon your dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress twenty-five quenelles (No. 120), and twelve slices of tongue (cut in the same shape as the quenelles), have ready boiled very green some Trench beans cut in diamond shapes, which sprinkle over the breast of the turkey, and sauce over with a puree cle con- combres (No. 105). No. 514. Poularde a VAmbassadrice. Procure a nice white poularde, cut it open down the back, and bone it without breaking the skin, make two pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix six large Prencli truffles cut in slices, spread the forcemeat half an REMOVES. 209 inch in thickness upon the inside of the poularde, then have ready boiled and nicely trimmed a small ox tongue, cover it with the forcemeat, fold a slice of fat bacon round, and put it in the middle of the poularde, which roll up and sew from end to end, fold the poularde in slices of fat bacon, and tie it up in a cloth, have ready prepared some vege¬ tables of all kinds cut in slices, put them in a convenient¬ sized stewpan, lay the poularde upon them, the breast downwards, but first moisten the vegetables with a little salad oil, add half a pint of Madeira wine, and sufficient white broth to cover the poularde, set on a sharp fire to boil, skim, and let it simmer for three horns, prepare the following garniture : braise two spring chickens (trussed as for boiling) three quarters of an hour in the braise with the poularde, have ready prepared a croustade as represented in the design, upon which place a larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed, place a fine cockscomb and a large truffle upon a silver attelet, and run it through the sweet¬ bread, sticking it upright in the croustade, then take the poularde out of the cloth, take off the bacon, pull out the string it was sewed up with, dry it with a cloth, and place it upon your dish with the garniture arranged tastefully around it; have ready the following sauce: chop half a pottle of fresh mushrooms very fine, put them into a stew- pan, with one ounce of butter and the juice of half a lemon, boil over a sharp fire five minutes, add two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), with one of the braise, let boil, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, adding a few spoonfuls of white broth if too thick, season with a tea¬ spoonful of sugar and a little salt, cut a few very black truffles in slices, and chop a couple very fine, place them on a plate in the hot closet ten minutes; put your sauce again on the fire, and when boiling add a gill of whipped cream, 14 210 REMOVES. pour the sauce over the poularde and chickens, lay the slices of truffles here and there upon them, and sprinkle the chopped truffles lightly over, the blackness of the truffles contrasting with the whiteness of the sauce has a pleasing effect; serve directly you have poured the sauce and sprinkled the truffles over. The bones being taken out of the poularde they must be carved crosswise, thus carving through tongue and all. No. 515. Poulardes en Diademe. Make a croustade representing a diadem, stick three silver attelets upon it, on which you have stuck a crawfish, a large truffle, and a large quenelle, roast two poulardes quite white in vegetables, and have an ox tonge nicely boiled and trimmed, place them on the dish with then’ tails to the croustade and the tongue between; upon the root of the tongue and at the end of each poularde place a nice larded sweetbread well cooked and glazed (or a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled), make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress alternately truffles and fine cockscombs, previously dressed (No. 128); have ready the following sauce: peel four middling-sized cucumbers, mince and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of but¬ ter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, two chopped escha¬ lots, and a little powdered sugar, pass the whole over a slow fire, and stew them gently half an hour, or till quite tender, then mix in half an ounce of flour, add two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), which moisten with a pint of white broth, let boil till it adheres to the spoon, stirring the whole time, rub through a tammie and put it into a clean stewpan, place over the fire, and when boiling add a gill of cream and two pats of butter • season with the juice of a lemon, a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the poulardes and cockscombs, glaze the tongue, REMOVES. 211 truffles, and sweetbreads and serve immediately; do not pour the sauce over until quite ready to serve. No. 516. Poulardes a la Vicomtesse. Make a croustade as represented in the plate (fig. 5), roast two poulardes in vegetables as in the last; place the croustade in the middle of the dish, and upon each gradation of it stick an attelet, upon which you have placed two plo¬ ver’s eggs warmed in stock; place the poulardes on the dish breast to breast, and at the tail of each lay three larded lambs’ sweetbreads (No. 671), make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress slices of cooked ham warmed in stock, and cut in the shape of fillets of fowls ; have ready prepared the following sauce : cut into thin slices a little carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, put them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and pars¬ ley, pass them over a brisk fire until lightly browned, add four tablespoonfffls of tarragon vinegar, and one ditto of common vinegar, let boil, add two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), and one of consomme, boil it twenty minutes, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly ; boil altogether till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little salt and pepper if required, sauce over the poulardes, glaze the pieces of ham and serve immediately. No. 517. Poulardes a la Jeanne d’ Arc. Roast the poulardes in vegetables as before, and dress them with croustade, garniture, and sauce as described in fillet of beef a la Jeanne d’Arc (No. 41KV 212 REMOVES. No. 5IS. Poulardes a la Jeune Princesse. Bone two nice poulardes as for poularde a l’ambassadrice (No. 514), lay them on a cloth, have ready prepared four pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), spread some half an inch in thickness over the inside of the poulardes; have ready boiled a Russian tongue, which cut in halves lengthwise, trim each half, lay one upon the middle of each poularde, cut twelve pieces of fat bacon four inches in length and the thickness of your finger, lay three pieces upon each side of the tongue at equal distances apart, and between each piece lay rows of small very green gherkins, season with a little salt and pepper, cover with a little more of the forcemeat, roll and sew up the poulardes, tie them in cloths and braise two hours, as directed for poulardes a l’ambassadrice; when done take them out of the cloths, pull out the packthread you sewed them up with, dress them on your dish in a slanting direction, make a border of mashed potatoes round, have ready twenty small croustades de beurre a la puree de volaille (No. 405), which dress upon the mashed potatoes at equal distances apart, and upon the top of each place a plover’s egg (from which you have peeled off all the shell) warmed in broth, between each croustade lay small bunches of asparagus (previously boiled), cut an inch and a half in length, and six or eight in a bunch; have ready the follow¬ ing sauce: put three quarts of white sauce (No. 7), and one of white stock in a stewpan, the sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms, place it over the fire, keep stirring, reduce to two-thirds, add a gill of whipped cream, season with a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the poulardes, and upon the breast of each sprinkle a few heads of sprue grass nicely boiled and cut very small; in carving they must be cut across, it will resemble marble. REMOVES. 213 No. 519. Poulardes a la Financiere. Roast two poulardes in vegetables as usual; have ready boiled two ox tongues, trim them, nicely cutting off part of the tip ; when the poulardes are done dress them up on your dish tail to tail, dress the two tongues crosswise, that is, the tips of the tongues touching the tails of the poulardes, have a very fine larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed, which place in the centre (this way of dishing them is very simple but very elegant); have ready the following ragout: put twenty dressed cockscombs, twenty heads of mush¬ rooms, four truffles cut in slices, twelve pieces of sweetbread the size of half-crowns (well blanched), and twenty small quenelles (No. 120), in a stewpan, in another stewpan put two glasses of sherry, half an ounce of glaze, a little cayenne pepper, and a bay-leaf; reduce to half over a good fire, then add three quarts of espagnole or brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty spoonfuls of consomme (No. 134), boil and skim, reduce, keeping it stirred till it becomes a good demi- glace and adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into the stewpan containing the garniture, add a little powdered sugar, make all hot together, pour over and round the poulardes, glaze the tongues and serve. No. 520. Poulardes a la Warsovienne. Roast two large poulardes in vegetables, and let them get cold, then take all the meat from the breast, but be careful to leave a rim half an inch in thickness, cut up the flesh in small dice, put it into a stewpan with fifteen spoon¬ fuls of white sauce (No. 7), two truffles cut in slices, and twelve pieces of stewed cucumber (No. 103); season with a little sugar, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg; stir all very gently over the fire (being careful not to break the 214 REMOVES. pieces of cucumber), when it boils add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two spoonfuls of cream, stir them in quickly ; have ready warmed in stock the carcasses of the poulardes, place the mince in the breasts, egg over, and bread-crumb round the rims, place them in the oven twenty minutes to set, then dress them breast to breast on your dish; poach twelve plovers’ eggs very nicely, lay six upon each poularde, that is, three upon each side of the breast to form a diamond, then place a small larded lamb’s sweet¬ bread upon the top between the two poulardes and in the centre of the eggs, place a fine cauliflower on each side, and sauce over with a sauce bechamel, or maitre cl’hotel (No. 43); glaze the sweetbread and serve. No. 521. Poulardes aux legumes prmtaniers. Roast two poulardes in vegetables as before, then with a sharp knife turn forty young carrots and forty young tur¬ nips, keeping them in their shape as much as possible, wash and place them in separate stewpans, with a pint of veal stock and half a teaspoonful of sugar, boil until the stock is reduced to glaze, by which time they will be well done, place them in a bain marie to keep hot, peel also forty young onions the same size as your turnips, butter a saute-pan, put in half an ounce of sugar (sifted), over which place the onions, cover with veal stock and let them stew until the stock forms a thickish glaze, place them in the hot closet until wanted, then take up the poulardes, dress tail to tail on your dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round, and at each end place a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled, then place alternately an onion and a turnip with a carrot upon the top between, making a pyramid in the middle of the border on each side; for sauce put the glaze from the vegetables and onions into a stewpan to¬ gether, boil and skim off all the butter, add two quarts of REMOVES. 215 brown sauce, reduce quickly, keeping it stirred all the time, until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little salt if required; pour the sauce over the whole and serve. No. 522. Poulardes aux legumes verts. Roast the poulardes in vegetables as usual, then take ten large turnips, cut each in halves exactly in the centre, peel them thin without leaving the marks of the knife, and scoop out the centres to form them into cups, with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown-piece, cut twenty pieces of turnip one inch in thickness to form stands, stew them nicely in stock as in the last, but not too much done, and place them in the bain marie till ready to serve, then place a border of mashed potatoes round the interior of the dish, leaving sufficient room for your poulardes, and at each end stick a croustade of bread cut in cups but larger than those of turnips, place the turnip cups upon their stands at equal distances apart upon the mashed potatoes, place a nice head of cauliflower upon each croustade, have ready boiled some very young peas and heads of asparagus, fill the cups alter¬ nately with each, place your poulardes in the centre, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) and a pint of white stock in a stewpan, with the glaze from the turnips, reduce to two-thirds, skim, season with a little salt and sugar, finish with a gill of cream, sauce all over, but lightly over the vegetables, and serve. Capons may of course be dressed in the same manner as poulardes for removes, but to give a second series would only be a useless repetition. No. 523. Petits Poulets a la Warenzorf. Procure four very nice spring chickens trussed as for boiling, roast them in vegetables, as described (No. 417), have also ready boiled and nicely trimmed two deer tongues, 216 REMOVES. place one at each end of the dish making the tips meet in the centre, place a chicken at each corner, its tail in the centre, and between each lay a bunch of fine boiled aspa¬ ragus ; you have made a round fluted croustade of bread about four inches high, and the same in diameter, ornament it on the top with rings the size of a shilling, fried very white, and scoop out the middle of the croustade to form a cup; place it in the centre of your dish, with some fine heads of asparagus cut about four inches in length standing upright in it, glaze the tongues nicely, have two quarts of sauce puree d’asperges (No. 102) ready, which pour over the chickens and serve very hot. No. 524. Petits Poulets a la Perigord a blanc. Scrape four ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stew- pan, with two bay-leaves, three cloves, and a blade of mace, set over the fire to melt, and when quite hot take out the spice and bay-leaves, add ten large truffles cut in slices, and four chopped very fine, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7), place it over the fire to reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming very thick, finish with two yolks of eggs and place it on a dish to cool ; procure four nice spring chickens, detach the skin from the breasts without breaking, force the above preparation under the skins, sew the skin down (but not too tight, or it would burst in roasting), roast them in vegetables as usual ; have ready a croustade in the form of a vase, which place in the centre of your dish filled with fine truffles warmed in strong stock, dress the chickens with taste around it, first draining them upon a cloth, glaze lightly, and have ready the following sauce : put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan, with a pint of good veal broth, place it on the fire and when boiling add six large French truffles cut in thin slices, and half a teaspoon¬ ful of sugar, reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming REMOVES. 217 thickish, add half a gill of whipped cream ; pour the sauce round the chickens and serve very hot. No. 525. Petits Poulets a la Macedoine de legumes. Procure four spring chickens, roast them in vegetables, but just before they are done take off all the paper and vegetables and let them get a nice gold colour; prepare and poach a piece of forcemeat (No. 120) four inches square, and another two inches square, place the smaller one upon the larger in the centre of the dish, dress the chickens by placing the tails upon the forcemeat and the breasts towards the edges of the dish; you have previously peeled and turned twelve Jerusalem artichokes in the shape of pears, and stewed in white stock, place three at the breast of each chicken, and a piece of boiled cauliflower between each at the tail, build some Brussels sprouts pyramidically at the top, and sauce with macedoine de legumes a bran (No. 99). Powls may be dressed in the same manner as the chickens and are used when chickens cannot be obtained. No. 526. Petits Poulets a VIndienne. Put one pound of rice nicely boiled (No. 129) in a basin with a quarter of a pound of suet, a little pepper, salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of currie powder, and three or four eggs, mix all well together, then have four spring chickens un- trussed, fill them with the above, and truss them as for boiling, stew them one hour gently in a braise as No. 514, make a round cronstade of the form of a cup, five inches high, fill with some beautiful white rice in pyramid, with seven or eight mild Indian pickles interspersed, dress the chickens round the croustade, with a piece of boiled, bacon three inches long and two broad between each, pour about two quarts of sauce a l’Indienne (No. 45) over, and serve very hot. 218 REMOVES. No. 527. Petits Poulets au jus P estragon. Roast three spring chickens in vegetables, the same as for petits poulets a la macedoine de legumes, dress them on your dish, and pour a sauce au jus d’estragon (No. 10) round. No. 528. Petits Poulets a la Marie Stuart. Procure four spring chickens trussed as for boiling, detach carefully part of the skin from the breasts, and lay slices of Prench truffles under the skin, shaping a heart upon the breasts of each, prepare half a pound of maitre d 5 hot el butter (No. 79), divide it in four parts, and place one on the top of the truffles under the skin of each breast, covering with the skin, then put half a pound of butter, two onions, two bay-leaves, and two wine-glasses of pale brandy, with a little stock into a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens, place a sheet of buttered paper over, put on the cover, place it ten minutes over a sharp fire, then set in a moderate oven for an hour, when done take out the string, lay them on a clean cloth to drain; have ready a croustade in the form of a pyramid, which place in the centre of your dish entirely enveloped with mashed potatoes half an inch in thickness ; have ready some fine heads of asparagus boiled very green, and cut about an inch in length, stick them upon the pyramid with a small nice white head of cauli¬ flower at the top, dish your chickens round and sauce with a thin puree of truffles (No. 53) round them. No. 529. Petits Poussins a la Chanoinaise. Have ready three parts roasted in vegetables six very young spring chickens trussed as for boiling, cover them all over with forcemeat (No. 128), throw some chopped truffles and ham lightly over, and put them into a flat stewpan just co- REMOVES. 219 vered with some good veal stock, set them in a moderate oven twenty minutes, with the cover over, and when done dress them at the corners of the dish upon a little mashed pota¬ toes, place a small croustade in the centre, upon which place a nicely-cooked larded sweetbread, glaze well, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi- glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, with a little sugar, and when boiling have ready a tongue (ready boiled) cut in slices the size of half-a-crown-piece, and six large truffles also sliced, put them into the sauce, and when very hot pom into your dish, but not over the chickens; serve very hot. No. 530. Petits Poulets a la Printaniere. Roast four spring chickens in vegetables, have ready some young carrots, turnips, and onions, stewed as directed (No. 428); make a small border of mashed potatoes round the dish, dress the vegetables with taste upon it, variegating them with peas or asparagus heads boiled very green, dress the chickens in the centre and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce well over the fire, keeping it stirred, add half a tea¬ spoonful of sugar and the glaze from the vegetables, reduce again till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pour over the chickens and vegetables, and serve very hot. No. 531. Petits Poussins a la Tartare. Procure four very young spring chickens, not trussed, cut off the feet below the joints, break the bone in each leg, then cut an incision in the thigh of the chicken and turn the legs into it, cut the chickens open down the back-bone, and beat them flat, fry five minutes in butter in a saute-pan, season with a little pepper and salt, egg and bread-crumb them all over, lay them on a gridiron over a moderate fire, and broil a nice light-brown colour; lor sauce put ten table- 220 REMOVES. spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and six of consomme in a stewpan, and when it has boiled ten minutes add ten spoon¬ fuls of sauce tartare (No. 38), stir altogether till quite hot, but do not let it boil, pour it on your dish, garnish the edges of the dish with slices of Indian pickle, dress the chickens upon the sauce and serve directly; the sauce tar¬ tare may also be served cold with the chickens glazed and served hot upon it. No. 532. Petits Poussins a la Marechal. Truss and broil four chickens precisely as in the last, and have ready the following sauce : put three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a stewpan, with a small piece of glaze, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty tablespoon¬ fuls of consomme (No. 134), reduce ten minutes until form¬ ing a demi-glace, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the chickens, dish them upon the sauce and serve. No. 533. Goose a la Cldjpolata. Truss your goose nicely, and lard the breast (with lardons of fat bacon three inches long) here and there slantwise, then proceed exactly as for turkey a la chipolata (No. 512). No. 534. Goose stuffed with chesnuts. Procure a fine goose, truss it, chop the liver very fine, cut an onion in small dice, put them in a stewpan, with the liver, and a quarter of a pound of scraped fat bacon, pass them over a slow fire for ten minutes or a little longer, have ready roasted and peeled thirty fine chesnuts, put them in the stewpan, with two bay-leaves, let them stew slowly over the fire half an hour, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, and when nearly cold stuff the inside of the goose, which sew up at both ends; roast an hour and a half in vegetables, and just before it is done take away the paper REMOVES. oo 1 w P' pT" Hd o P. SO P-. o £ Les Cailles aux feuilles de vignes Deux Rotis. s aux feuilles < Jeunes Dindonneaux aux cressons. Six Entremets. La Gelee de Eruit demi ebaud froid marbre. Asperges a la Hollandaise. Maniveau de Champignons en surprise a la creme. Petites Coquilles aux huitres. Galantine de Poussin a la Voliere. Charlotte de Praises au noyeau. Deux Releves. Gateau Britannique a l’Amiral. Croquettes de Macaroni au fromage de Stilton. €T> cos DINER LUCULLUSIAN A LA SAMPAYO. I beg to present to my Readers a copy of the Bill-of-fare of the most recherche dinner I ever dressed, which the liberal¬ ity and epicurean taste of the gentleman who gave it, to a select party of connoiseurs, enabled me to procure; he wish¬ ing me to get him a first-rate dinner, and spare no expense in procuring the most novel, luxurious, and rare edi¬ bles to be obtained at this extravagant season of the year; I, therefore, much to his satisfaction, placed before him and his guests the following : (see p. 609). I had also proposed the following dish to the party, which was accepted, but which I was unable to obtain from Paris on account of a change in the weather preventing their arrival, the articles being two dozen of ortolans; hav¬ ing already procured twelve of the largest and finest truffles I could obtain, it was my intention to have dug a hole in each, into which I should have placed one of the birds, and covered each with a piece of lamb’s or calf’s caul, then to have braised them half an hour in good stock made from fowl and veal, with half a pint of Lachryma Christi added; then to have drained them upon a cloth, placed a border of poached forcemeat upon the dish, built the truffles in pyra¬ mid, made a puree with the truffle dug from the interior, using the stock reduced to a demi-glace and poured over, roasted the twelve remaining ortolans before a sharp fire, with which I should have garnished the whole round, and served very hot. Les grosses Asperges vertes, Rissolettes a la sauce a la Creme. Pompadour. 009 9 Mai, 1846. REFORM CLUB. Diner pour 10 Personnes. Potage a la Comte de Paris. Do. a la puree d’Asperges. Saumon de Severne a la Mazarin. Deux Poissons. Rougets gratines a la Montesquieu. Deux Releves. Le Chapon farci de Foie gras a la Nelson. Saddleback d’Agneau de Maison a la Sevigne. Quatre Ilors-d’oeuvres a la Franeaisc. Les Olives farcies. Thon marine a l’ltalienne. Salade d’Anchois historiee. Sardines a l’Huile de Noisette. Quatre Entrees. Saute de Filets de Volaille a l’Ambassadrice. Petites Croustades de Beurre aux Laitances de Maquereaux. Cotelettes de Mouton Galloise a la Reforme. Turban de Ris de Veau puree de Concombres. Ed O o § Deux Rots. Les Dotrelles aux Feuilles de Vignes. Le Buisson d’Ecrevisse Pagodatique, au Vin de Champagne a la Sampayo. La Gelee de Dantzic aux fruits Printaniers. Les petits Pois nouveaux a l’Anglo-Francais. Les grosses Truffes a l’essence de Madere. Les Croquantes d’Amandes pralinees aux Abricots. Le Miroton de Homard aux Guifs de Pluviers. La Creme mousseuse au Curacao. ,<3 i o p= a ^ CD O >-i g £» CD * CD Deux Releves. La Hure de Sanglier demi-glacee, garnie de Champignons en surprise. Les Diablotins au fromage de Windsor. 39 G10 DINER LUCULLUSIAN. [Note. The tradespeople received their orders a week previous to the dinner. The finest mullets I ever saw, as well as the Severn salmon, were obtained at Grove’s, in Bond Street; the remainder of the fish was from Jay’s, Hunger- ford Market. At seven o’clock the live Severn salmon was brought to me, it having just arrived direct from Gloucester, and was boiled immediately, being just ten minutes before the dinner was placed upon the table, and was eaten in its greatest possible perfection. The finest of the poultry came from Bailey’s, Davis Street, Grosvenor Square, and Townsend’s, Charles Street, Haymarket. The foies gras and some very fine fresh Trench truffles came from Morel’s; the hors-d’-oeuvres, from Edges and Butler’s, Begent Street. The saddleback of lamb came from Newland’s, Air Street, Piccadilly, the Welsh mutton from Slater’s, and the young green peas and a very expensive dessert came from Solomon’s, Covent Garden. My being so minute in mentioning the name of the above tradespeople is not to advertise their fame in their different speciahties, as that I believe they have already acquired, but merely to prove the trouble a real gourmet will take to furnish Iris table, Mr. S. having called many tunes upon several of them liimself, previous to this party taking place, to ascertain what his dinner was to be composed of. The most expensive dishes were the mullets, the salmon, poulardes a la Nelson, and, above all, the crawfish which, when dressed, cost upwards of seven guineas.] Gil DIALOGUE CULINAIRE JEntre Lord M. H. et A. Soyer. *S ’ Vous avez parfaitement raison, Mylord; le titre de gourmet n’appartient qn’a celui qui mange avec art, avec science, avec ordre, et meme avec beaucoup d’ordre. Lord M. Le gourmand n’est jamais goimnet; l’un mange sans deguster, F autre deguste en mangeant. A. L’homme tier et hautain, Mylord, s’occupe de son diner par besoin; l’homme du monde, epicure profond, s’en occupe avec plaisir. Lord M. 11 est certain que l’on lie saurait donner trop d’attention a la rigide execution et a Fordre intelligent d’un diner. Le diner etant de cliaque jour, de chaque saison, de cliaque siecle, est non seulement la seule mode liereditaire, mais aussi Fame de la sociabilite; lisez l’liistoire, et vous y verrez que de tous les temps, et cliez tous les peuples, le bien qui s’est fait, et quelquefois le mal, fut toujours precede on suivi d’un copieux diner. A. Rien, n’est plus vrai, Mylord, que de tous les plaisirs de la vie qui nous sent legues en ce monde, celui de la table est le seul auquel les renes du char de la vie n’echappent qu’a regret; et souvent, en ami fidele, ne les lache qu’aux abords du tombeau; tandis que tous les autres s’epa- nouissent frivolement, comme a la suite d’un beau prin- temps, et, en nous delaissant, couvrent nos fronts radieux du givre des ans. Lord M. II est positif que deguster est une faculte de tout age; un vieillard de cent six ans, que j’ai beaucoup connu, degustait parfaitement alors. S. Nos cent degustateurs demandent de continuelles etudes, et reclament, sans cesse, un continuel cliangement. 612 DIALOGUE CULINAIRE. Lord M. Le plus bel esprit manquerait cl’eloquence s’il negligeait par trop l’ordre cle ses repas. S. C’est ce qui nous prouve, My lord, que nos plus agreables sensations dependent non seulement de la nature, mais aussi du soin que nous donnons a notre personne. Lord M. Oui, car plus 1’ame est sensible, plus la degus¬ tation est feconde. Les sensations degustatives operent avec autant d’activite sur le palais que le charme de la melodic le fait sur borne; par exemple, l’homme dans un cas de folie, peut bien eprouver le besoin de manger, mais l’action enchanteresse de la degustation lui est aussi interdite que la raison. 8. Votre argument sur ce point est extremement juste, Mylord. N’etes-vous pas aussi de mon avis, que rien ne dispose mieux l’esprit liumain a des transactions amicales, qu’un diner bien con$u et artistement prepare. Lord M. C’est ce qui m’a toujours fait dire qu’un bon cuisinier est aussi utile qu’un savant conseiller. 8. Je me suis toujours apcreu, Mylord, que le palais le plus fin etait le plus difficile a plaire, mais aussi le plus juste a recompenses Lord M. Le clioix des vins est de haute importance dans l’ordre d’un diner; un vin fin, leger et genereux protege le cuisinier et devient le bienfaiteur du convive. 8. Permettez-moi de vous faire observer, Mylord, qu’une reunion gastronomique sans dames est a mes yeux un par¬ terre sans fleurs, l’ocean sans dots, une flotte maritime sans voiles. Lord M . Certes, de telles reunions sont le berceau des bonnes mceurs et de la jovialite, comme la debauche est le tombeau de la moralite. Refoem Club, May 14, 1846. * THE KITCHEN DEPARTMENT Of THE REFORM CLUB. “ This is a curious print, and unique of its kind : it presents on a large scale a coup-d’oeil of the matchless culinary arrangements of the Reform Club, the various offices for which extend over the whole basement of the building. To show them at one glance, the partition-walls are cut away, and a bird’s-eye view is given of the several kitchens, larders, sculleries, and batterie de cuisine; the different functionaries are all at their posts, and the accomplished chef, Monsieur Soyer, is in the act of pointing out to a favoured visitor the various contrivances suggested by his ingenuity and experience. With a plan of the building, there are references to a minute explanatory account of the uses of the multifarious apparatus here exhibited, for the admiration of the scientific gastronome and the envy of rival artistes.”— Spectator. DESCRIPTION OF THE KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB AND SIMPLE GUIDE FOR FITTING UP THE KITCHENS OF THE WEALTHY. INTRODUCTION. The unexpected success my new plan has met with for the building of kitchens since the opening of the Reform Club, induced me a few years ago to publish a sectional plan of it on a large scale, which I am happy to say was very successful, and met with the approbation of all scientific men, and of the higher classes of society, having received instructions since that time to contrive and arrange nu¬ merous noblemen’s and gentlemen’s kitchens, by adapting many of my new and simple discoveries to any shaped kitchen with the greatest facilities, at a very moderate ex¬ pense ; I therefore beg to present my readers with the re¬ duced scale of the plan, as well as the correct measurement and size of all the apparatus. I have not the slightest hesi¬ tation in stating that, by the simple arrangements which I am about to submit, any kitchen, large or small, would be easily benefited and improved; it may also be always kept clean without much labour, the work more carefully done, and the appetite (my intimate friend) will become the keener. My motto has always been “ cleanliness is the soul of the kitchen.” REFERENCE TO THE PLAN OF THE KITCHEN DEPARTMENT OF THE REFORM CLUB. A. La Boucherie, in which all Joints are trimmed for cooking. B. The Meat and Game Larder. 1. Table for provisions which are ready for dressing. 2. Slate dresser, with ice drawers and pickling tubs underneath. 3. Slate well for soaking hams. 4. Slate dresser,similar to the preceding, hut larger. 5. Vegetable boxes. 6. Slab for opening oysters. *** The frame for hanging meat, game, &c. is suspended from the ceiling. C. The Cold Meat and Sauce Larder. 1. The safe. 2. Slate slab to deposit cold stocks, sauces, &c., and shelves. D. The Pastry and Confectionery. 1. Marble slab. 2. Mortar. 3.3. Dressers for dishing up the second course, and depositing pastry and confectionery, under which are hot and cold drawers, lined with tin, and having a steam-pipe pass¬ ing behind, which slightly warms them ; these drawers are for keep¬ ing either moist or dry whatever may require to be so kept. Above each dresser are closets. E. Office du Chef de Cuisine. F. Passage. 1. Fish slab. 2. Large shelf to deposit sauces, &c.,for cooling. 3. Hour shelf. G. Open Yard. FI. Lift, to hoist Coals to the Dormitory De¬ partment. I. Passage. J. Kitchen Maids’ Dining Room. K. Roasting Kitchen. 1. Low French charcoal stove. 2. Stove. 3. Oven for gratins, souffles, &c. 4. Steam closet. 5. Fire-place. 6. Screen, with hot closets. 7. Large pastry oven. 8. French charooal stove for vegetables. 9. Hot delivery window for joints and vegetables. 10. Mortar. 11. Rack for the spits. 12. Dresser. 13. Iron rails for moulds and coppers. L. The Vegetable Kitchen. 1. Table to dish up vegetables. 2. Dresser, with steam-pans for cooking vegetables. 3. Sink for washing vegetables. 4. Draining dresser. 5. Dresser to deposit clean crockery. 6. Two sinks for washing plates and dishes, provided with bell-traps to prevent smell. Above is the plate- rack. 7. Delivery window for crockery. M. The Scouring Scullery. 1. Two sinks for washing coppers. 2. Scouring table. 3. Dresser and draining board. 4. Steam-boiler. 5. Large coal-box. N. The Butler’s Pantry. O. The Butler’s Room. P. Fire-proof Plate Closet. Q. Passage. R. Lift, to convey Dinners to the Coffee Room. S. Staircase. T. The principal Kitchen. 1. Table. 2. Flot closet. 3. Fire-place. 4. Screen and closets, as in the roasting kitchen. 5. Sideboard for silver dishes. 6. Dresser, and shelves for covers, moulds, &c. 7. Low French charcoal stove for large fish. 8. Broiling stoves. 9. A bain marie. 10. Hot closet, to deposit fish, chops, &c., if required to wait. 11. Delivery window for entrees. 12. Kitchen clerk’s desk. 13. A bain marie for soups and sauces, to supply coffee-room. 14. Large French charcoal, and gas stove for made dishes. 15. A bain marie for soups and sauces, for house dinners. 16. Sink. 17. Hot plate for dishes to be sent up to private dining room. 18. Lift for sending up dinners. plan of the kitchen department of the reform club. KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB, &c. (a.) la bouciierie. This essential part of tlie kitchen department is complete in its several arrangements, and one cannot help noticing that in spite of the moderate size of this room everything is contrived with the utmost convenience, perfect ventilation, and with due economy. As this small space is fully adequate to the general wants of this large kitchen, it must, therefore, be equally good for one of smaller dimensions. My object not being to fix the size of all pri¬ vate boucheries according to this, it therefore must be left to localities, and the details below may be taken as a general principle. The length of the room is twelve feet by nine ; at the further corners are two blocks to cut the meat upon, which are two feet in diameter, and two feet seven inches high, includ¬ ing the supporters, eight inches from the floor, giving facility to clean under¬ neath, also to prevent decay; between the two blocks is a patent scale of a simple construction, and very convenient, upon which can be weighed above two hundred pounds of meat with great ease. On the right and left are two tables, three inches thick, six feet six inches long, one foot nine inches wide, and three feet three inches high, with a drawer to each, and a square box covered over, underneath the tables, for waste fat, &c.; above the tables is a flat rod with small hooks, one inch and a half long and three inches apart, upon which are various sized meat-hooks; all round the room upon the walls are thick slates, six feet high. Those slates lately introduced in building I would particularly recommend where coolness is required, and also as being very clean. (b.) principal larder for meat and game. The gastronomic variety generally collected in this sanctuary of taste requires the utmost care and cleanliness, the joints prepared for the day arranged with symmetry and taste, so as to present to the eye the finest sides, the same respecting the dressed meat dishes and cold poultry, which should always be trimmed and garnished with fresh parsley, ready to be served up at a moment’s notice. A good ventilation, being of the utmost importance, should be particularly attended to. The following dimensions will greatly assist for the contrivance of a larder perfectly convenient if built with the same proportions. The size is eighteen feet long and fifteen feet wide, having on the right side a dresser fourteen feet long, three wide, and two feet ten inches high, the top is of slate one inch thick, instead of wood, which is an excellent substi¬ tute, and always covered with a dresser cloth; there are eight ice drawers opening on castors, when large and deep as these, it is advisable to make them in a similar manner running on castors, as their weight would otherwise cause them to open with difficulty. The first four are two feet eight inches square and nine inches deep, lined with lead, and principally for jellies, ice creams, &c., the others beneath are deeper, for pickling-tubs; the tempera¬ ture is from thirty-five to forty degrees, allowing comestibles of the most delicate kind to be kept a considerable time without deteriorating their qua¬ lities. The construction of those drawers is considered ingenious ; the hot- KITCHEN OF 016 tom being inclined on each side towards the middle, which forms a channel, at the end of which there is a small drain to let the ice water escape without the assistance of hands, having at the back a pipe to receive the waste water running into other pipes outside. On the left going in there is another sideboard of the same material, eight feet and a half long and two feet wide, there are six drawers all of them lined with lead, and (which might be called simply ice-preservers, being almost free from air, and only now and then refreshed with ice at a trilling expense) from five to six inches thick, covered with a zinc plate to fit the drawer, and a cloth over it for chops, steaks, aspics, entrees, and a variety of things always kept fresh and tender; the woodcut below gives the exact form of the drawers as described above. It will be worth consideration to adopt the plan in all larders, as they certainly have the several advantages of preserving ice for a long time, and keeping in readiness any sort of prepared dishes, and even the flavour of fruit to perfection. ICE DRAWERS AND DRESSER. At the end cf this sideboard is a slate well, three feet six inches long, two feet wide, an 2 one foot deep, supplied with hot and cold water ; this well is used for soaking hams, tongues, and calf’s head ; adjoining is a slab for open¬ ing oysters, under which is a well to keep them in. In the middle of the larder is a dresser-table, ten feet long and two feet four inches wide, covered with a tablecloth, to depose fresh provisions ready for the day’s dressing. On the right going in are fixed divisions, boxes made of slate, for vege¬ tables, very simple and very useful, each having sliding fronts of wood to facilitate cleaning. The first row is ten feet long, divided into eleven parts, namely, five of one foot one inch opening and eight inches deep, six inches high in front, and ten inches at the back, the other six are smaller; the lower divisions are for large vegetables, and consequently of greater dimen¬ sions, divided into seven boxes, five of which are one foot seven inches deep, nine inches high in front, and one foot five inches at the back, with one foot five inches opening, the other two are for potatoes. The whole appearance of the above boxes is agreeable, for you see at once all the various productions of the kitchen garden the most in season, and kept separate. There is something new in the plan which might easily be THE REFORM CLUB. 617 adopted. It is remarkably clean and cool. Too often vegetables are kept in drawers, or mixed together in any corners ; where as if fitted in this style, a gardener or greengrocer, without asking what is wanted, can observe it at once, and replenishes all empty boxes, seeing actually what is required and not supplying by guess. VEGETABLE BOXES. On the ceiling suspended by fixed iron rods is a large frame ten feet long, and six wide, divided into three parts, having eight iron rods, one on each side of the transverse battens to hang up the joints, game, poultry, &c.; SUSPENDED FRAME FOR MEAT, GAME, ETC. by means of loose and moveable hooks tinned over of a particular form, very easy to remove from and hook on the frame with the joints or other articles upon it, by the aid of a long handle with a double hook, there being a hole 618 KITCHEN OF in tlie centre of the meat hook for that purpose, thus avoiding pricking any unnecessary holes in the meat. (c.) The Cold Meat and Sauce Lauder. This room, close to the other, is thirteen feet long and eleven feet wide; on the right is a meat-safe con¬ structed on a new principle for keeping cold meat, and by which flies are always excluded. The doors by a simple contrivance open and shut as it were by themselves, by means of a cord and a weight, which draws them, the same as a sash rolling upon pullies, in a groove with iron plates in it, through which two pins are fixed six inches apart; on pushing the door open the pm is raised underneath to stop it, and by a retrograde motion of the elbow when taking a dish out the said pin drops, and the door shuts of itself, it is so quickly done that there is hardly time for a fly to get in, besides the wires are so close that the impediment is complete, in addition to that an excellent current of air always prevails. The meat-safe is four feet high, six feet wide, and three feet deep, with two shelves inside; under it, between the bottom and the floor, is a shelf for jars and kitchen basins, &c. MEAT SATE. On the opposite side is a slate dresser eleven feet long and two feet three inches wide, with a skirting all along, seven inches high; underneath at the further end is a cupboard, three feet long, with shelves for china, by the side is a shelf for jars, &c. ; above the dresser there are two shelves the whole length and two feet wide, for preserves and bottles and jars of all sizes. (d.) Pastry and Confectionery. This important part of the kitchen department may appear small at first view, being only eight feet long and thirteen feet wide, but the arrangement is in every respect perfectly conve¬ nient. A marble slab, five feet nine inches long and three feet wide, on a level with the window, with two ice-drawei s beneath, one for butter and eggs, and THE REFORM CLUB. 619 the other for preserving various forcemeats, salad, sauces, &c., is sufficient for the work of two pastrycooks. On the right is a marble mortar, with a long-handled pestle going through a ring fixed in the wall, and on the left a flour-bin covered. Underneath are divisions for scales, weights, and sundry implements, on the right and left are dressers, two feet and a half wide, with two rows of drawers, where rolling-pins, cutters for all kinds of pastry, and sugar-sieves are kept. Above, at one foot four inches from the dresser, are closets, one foot six inches in depth and eight feet frontage, with three sliding doors. Within are divisions to put away fancy ornamental pieces and useful articles and ingredients for that tasty department; in this as well as in the other three rooms there is an admi¬ rable coolness, absolutely necessary for the making of pastry, and preserving it when completed. Any pastry or entremet which requires to be kept dry, such as meringues, maccaroons, almond paste, &c., must be kept in a closet in the kitchen. (e.) Head Cook’s Office and Parlour. This room, nineteen feet long and thirteen feet wide, is conveniently situated on the same floor with the others, and very handy by its proximity to the kitchen; it is well fitted up with a closet for su¬ perior preserves and all kinds of new light kitchen utensils. PESTLE AND MORTAR. (f.) Passage. This space is three-and-thirty feet long and nine feet wide, dividing the rooms above described from the kitchen, although a passage, it is particularly useful; on the right from the second larder, and immediately under the stairs, there is fixed a white marble slab, four feet long and three feet three FISH SLAB. inches in width, surrounded with a slate border of three inches in height, the slab is use d for keeping fresh and cool all the fish brought in for use ; at the ex¬ tremity of the slab, which is an inclined plane, there is an horizontal shower- G20 KITCHEN OF pipe supplied with iced w r ater from a cistern above. On the opposite side, all along the wall, there is an hour shelf, thirteen feet and a half long and one foot six inches wide, divided by numbers showing the hour when dishes are to be cooked, which is from five to eight at night. Upon the same line on the left is another dresser, four feet and a half long and three feet wide, to cool sauces and stock before they are removed to the second larder to be put by the side of those already cooled ; a rule I would re¬ commend, because the fermentation of hot sauces or stock w r ould affect those in the second larder if put there whilst hot. At the end of the passage on the right, and above the kitchen door, is a ventilating screen four feet square; it is a simple frame with two cross-pieces covered with canvas, and fixed horizontally above the door, with hinges so as to move it up and down at will, which is done by means of a cord nailed in the middle of the frame and passed through two pullies fixed in the ceiling, and tied with hooks on the wall opposite ; you make use of the cord the same as for a Venetian blind, the only difference is, that you keep moving it up and down all the time required to diminish the heat of the kitchen. No one would suppose, without seeing it perform, what surprising effect this simple contrivance produces, as the ascending movement draw r s away the heat from the kitchen into the passage, and introduces fresh air into it perfectly un¬ expected ; it is only on particular occasions, and in the heat of summer that it is made use of, as the ventilation of this kitchen is everything that can be wished for, it was more as a model for confined kitchens that I have applied this extra-ventilating screen. (g.) A small back yard, nine feet long and seven feet wide, separated from the passage by a glass partition and doors, wherein are deposited various things for kitchen use, and ice creams frozen. (h.) In the small passage leading to the roasting kitchen there is a lift woi’ked by steam, to hoist coals to the sleeping-rooms ; and a gas-meter inclosed in a wooden box for the supply of the gas-stoves in the principal kitchen. (i.) Passage leading to and from the roasting kitchen. (j.) The kitchen-maids’ dining-room, eight feet square, fitted with drawers, tables, closets, &c.; the entrance in the passage above mentioned. (k.) Roasting Kitchen. On entering into this room you see in a direct line the vegetable kitchen and the scullery. On the left there is a low cast- iron French stove for boiling large joints and making stock which has been previously boiled on a quick fire, and removed there to simmer gently ; this stove is two feet seven inches long, two feet nine inches wide, and one foot nine inches high, and is purposely made low on account of the great weight lifted on and off. In the centre is a grate, one foot square, for charcoal. Contiguous to it is another cast-iron stove, or hot plate, the waste fire of which heats the small oven for gratins, souffles, &c. (see opposite). It is five feet long by two feet nine inches wide, and the same in height. At the end, on a line with the fire-place, is the steam-closet, six feet high, four feet and a half wide, and two feet deep, forming three shelves with the bottom to keep the dishes very hot as well as the roasts ; near it is the large roasting fire-place, six feet and a half wide and five feet and a half high. The grate is five feet wide and three feet high, and very shallow, giving a great heat at a compa- THE REFORM CLUB. 621 ratively small expense; a boiler is at tlie back, which holds one hundred gallons of water always hot, and amply sufficient for all kitchen purposes; the salamander is also easily and quickly heated at the same fire without in- CHABCOAL STOVE AND HOT PLATE. terfering with the roasts, having a place formed in the front of the grate pur¬ posely for its reception. In front of the roasting fire-place is a closet-screen, six feet wide, two feet deep, and six feet high, to keep all joints very warm. The plan of this sci’een differs from the common ones ; the back, fronting the fire, is covered with iron sheeting; the front shuts in with sliding doors, forming two sepa¬ rate closets, the top being only sixteen inches high, and the lower four feet high, with two iron grated shelves; the doors being kept shut, there is always a regular heat. What renders this screen a perfect desideratum, are the two folding leaves at each end, fastened with hinges and completely in¬ closing the fire, thereby preventing the smoke escaping, and also the heat from being felt even close to the screen ; and the advantage of the whole is, that notwithstanding the immense fire, presenting a surface of fifteen feet square, no inconvenience results from it. (See Cut, page 622). Lower down is a large cast-iron oven for pastry, six feet nitae inches high, four feet nine inches wide, divided into two parts, one above the other, each of two feet opening, one foot nine inches high, and two feet six inches deep, with grated shelves. Joining the oven there is a French stove, three feet two inches long and two feet four inches wide, with one grating, to boil delicate vegetables. Above, in the thickness of the wall, is a cistern two feet long, two feet four inches deep, and one foot wide, to keep the large boiler behind the roasting fire-grate constantly supplied with water. Opposite is a sash window, by which roasts and vegetables for the coffee- room are handed to the waiters ; beneath the window is a closet for plates and C22 KITCHEN OF dishes, the top of which is of cast-iron and warmed by steam, thus dishes are removed from one hot place to another until they reach their destination ; the length is four feet eleven inches, and two feet deep, with a sheet-iron shelf inside. BOASTING BANGE. On the right side of this closet is a marble mortar of twenty inches dia¬ meter, surrounded with wood-work and forming a pedestal, the pestle with a long handle passes through a ring fastened in the wall, four feet above. Near to the above is the iron rack to hang up all the spits and other im¬ plements. It consists of two half rings, to each of which are attached scroll hooks The hook on the upper ring supports the wheel end of a spit, and the lower hook holds the point. Further on, next to the door leading to the principal kitchen, is a dresser, eight feet long and two feet wide, to unspit the roasted joints or other purposes. (l.) Vegetable Kitchen. At the end of the roasting kitchen, and only divided by an arch twelve feet in span, you enter this room, fifteen feet long and sixteen wide; in the centre is a deal table, nine feet long and two feet two inches wide, with drawers. On the left, upon a wide shelf, are three steam-boilers, two of them square, THE REFORM CLUB. 623 to cook potatoes, and the other for steaming puddings, &c. ; the square ones might be taken as models, they are one foot five inches square, and one foot high, divided into four parts, forming four distinct compartments in one. The round boiler is fifteen inches in diameter. The front of the shelf has a groove under the tap of the steamers to let out the water produced by the steam, which runs into the sink ; a draining-board is next to the steamers, where vegetables are deposited after they are washed. Next is the vegetable sink, three feet nine inches long, two feet six inches wide, and one foot eight inches deep, with two taps for hot and cold water. Against the glass partition, on each side of the door which leads to the scullery, are two dressers, six feet long and two feet four inches wide, with four open divisions under each, for sundry articles of kitchen utensils. On the right are two sinks, three feet six inches long, two feet six inches wide, and one foot six inches deep, for washing dishes, having two taps each, for hot and cold water. Above is a plate-rack, eleven feet long and one foot deep, to dry plates and dishes. On the right side of the sinks is a delivery window with a closet beneath, four feet long and two feet wide, serving as a dresser, from which clean plates and dishes are sent to the coffee-room. (m.) The Scouring Scullery and Steam Boiler. This room, on a level with the vegetable kitchen, is thirteen feet long and seventeen feet wide ; on the left is a large dresser, or draining-board, with grooves, six feet long and three feet and a half wide, to dry all the coppers after being scoured; under it are large drawers. Above are two shelves the whole length of the room for large pans and coppers. Next to the dresser are two large sinks, three feet and a half long, two and a half wide, and one foot and a half deep, with two taps for hot and cold water. Against the window, and close to the sink, is a thick scouring table, three feet by two, with a box underneath for sand, &c. On the right is the steam boiler, eight feet three inches long, six feet wide, and five feet high, surrounded with bricks, and by which large closets, bains maries, plates for delivery-windows and tables, are heated, large coppers sup¬ plied with steam for cooking; also dressing-rooms, baths, and closets in vari¬ ous parts of the house. The appearance of these three rooms, each for a different purpose, forms, as it were, only one room, well lighted, very cool, extremely convenient, and without the least confusion. (n.) Butler’s Pantry. A large room, twenty-four feet long and seventeen wide, including private room, with a fire-place, cupboards, sink, and plenty of water; a large table is in the middle, where everything belonging to his de¬ partment is prepared. (o.) Butler’s Office. Well fitted up, and very convenient from its proxi¬ mity to the pantry and plate closet. (p.) Iron closet for plate, fire-proof. (a.) A large passage leading out, and also to the hack staircase, to the coffee-room. 624 KITCHEN OE (u.) A lift, by which dinners are conveyed to the coffee-rooms either by THE DINNER LIFT. (s ) The back staircase for servants. (t.) Principal Kitchen. The size of this kitchen is twenty-eight feet long and twenty-four wide ; in the middle is an elm table, made on a plan entirely original, having twelve irregular sides, and giving the utmost facility for the various works of the kitchen, without any one interfering with another. The principal length is twelve feet by seven wide, and three inches thick. Under the edge of the table, in front, are two sliding boards, two feet long and two inches and a half thick, which are used for straining sauces, purees, &c.; as these sliding boards are lower than the table they are particularly useful, and save an additional width; below are two drawers, and at each end, in front, are two little moveable copper buckets with water, handy for sponging off any blood or mess left upon the board or table after the cutting of poultry, game, or fish. In the same dii'ection there are two columns supporting the ceiling and passing through the table, round which, at a convenient height, are copper cases lined with tin, in ten compartments, each of which contains every ingredient and chopped herbs of the seasons for flavouring dishes, such as salt, pepper, spices, sweet herbs, crumbs and rasping of bread, eggs, chopped onions, &c. ; the other contains various sauces for fish dressed in the English style. These cases turn round at will on castors fixed under it to the column, so that, without moving from your place, you can get every ingredient you may require ; the diameters of the columns are one foot, and the cases for ingredients project over three inches and a half; as columns are not always wanted to support the ceiling of a kitchen, the cases might easily be introduced on the table supported by a stand, turning in the same way as, and similar in shape to a lamp. In the middle of the table is a cast-iron steam closet, four feet one inch THE REFORM CLUB. 625 long, two feet eleven inches wide, and two feet nine inches high, with two sliding doors on each side, and a shelf inside for keeping delicate entrees per¬ fectly good for several hours, by means of two different degrees of heat; above, five inches distant from the top, is a grated iron shelf, all round upon which are placed middle-sized and small stewpans, supported at each corner by little balusters, as it projects beyond the closet it forms a cornice and gives it an elegant appearance. The whole contrivance of this table is much more convenient than might be imagined, by the number of useful objects a common table is deprived of; I certainly could have had a table of large dimensions* upon which great dinners might be laid out, as is commonly done, but that was precisely what I wished to avoid, finding it much more to the purpose, as soon as entree dishes are ready, to put them quickly into a warm place until wanted to be taken up, which is done with regularity; every dish being num¬ bered is placed upon the table without confusion, and to all appearance as if the whole had just been dressed, an advantage seldom if ever at the disposal of any chef de cuisine, who generally finds it very difficult to dispose of dishes in a fitting place to keep them in such a proper degree of heat as I obtain with the steam closet. Many culinary artists who have seen it for the first time question whether it is possible to dress a dinner of sixteen entrees or KITCHEN TABLE. more upon a table which is to all appearance inadequate to the exigencies required; the only answer I can give is, that since I have made use of it in very difficult circumstances, and with well known artists, neither of them or those regularly employed in the kitchen of the Reform Club have found any¬ thing contrary to good order, celerity, and comfort in preparing everything wanted for a large dinner; therefore I do not hesitate to recommend the above improvement in whatever kitchen it maybe, according to its several localities. * I consider too large a table to be as bad as too large a kitchen, in which much lime is lost in the cleanmg, and more in running about for articles required for use. 40 626 KITCHEN OE On the right hand side of the table is a roasting fire-place, principally used for game and poultry, on a plan entirely new, the size is seven feet wide and five feet six inches high, the bars are perpendicular and vertical, opening at one end, and supported upon castors, which allows the cleaning of it with much more ease, and affords access for the repairing of the boiler without pulling down any of the works around it; at the back of the stove in front of the boiler are thick Welsh lumps, by which hot water can be obtained twenty-four hours after the fire is put out. The great advantage of this range is, that from the smallest bird to the largest joint, even a baron of beef can be cooked to per¬ fection, although there is only four inches and a half depth of coals. As the consumption of this article is much less in a grate built on this principle, I expect that the old style of grates will disappear. Another advantage is, that broiling can be done in a very superior style, by means of a double gridiron suspended from an extending bracket hooked over the top bar; for which see my Kitchen of the Bachelor. On the left, in the thickness of the wall, is a small cistern to supply the boiler with water as it is drawn out hot on the right hand side. A screen closet is placed before this fire, drawn on castors, seven feet long, six feet high, and two feet wide, having two grated shelves for dishes, and open to the fire, with sliding doors and flaps, the same as the one described in the roasting kitchen. Turning your back to the fire-place, on the right is a recess, ten feet high, ten wide, and two and a half deep, forming an elliptic arch, in which is fixed a dresser used for silver dishes, &c., previous to a large dinner; underneath are four drawers for small kitchen utensils, and above the dresser three shelves for tinned iron saucepans; in the front of the shelves are suspended covers of various sizes and large preserve-pans. On the right, in another recess, six feet four inches high, four feet three inches wide, and two feet and a half deep, there is also a dresser, above it large dish covers. In the recess of the same size on the left is fixed a low cast-iron charcoal stove for boiling large fish, which is only used when large fish are required to be stewed or boiled; when not in use for that purpose it is covered with a thick board elevated one foot above, being supported upon four strong feet in wood, thus forming a dresser upon which to deposit any article previous to its being dressed at the broiling or fish stoves; on each side are tin drainers for kitchen spoons, &c., higher up are two rows of hooks for large dish covers ; the whole appearance of that side is pleasing to the eye, by the number of various articles to be seen, its regularity, and the brilliant cleanli- ness of everything. Facing the fire-place is a large cast iron stove, heated with coals, twelve feet five inches long, and two feet ten inches wide, divided into five parts, two of them are used for broiling steaks, cotelettes, &c., and the others to boil and fry fish. On a compass brass rod, and moveable, is fixed a fire-screen obliquely at the end, to prevent the heat injuring the eyes, and at the same time acting as a reflector in the interior of saucepans on the stove if required. At the extremity of the stove is a bain marie, two feet eight inches square, and seven inches deep, principally for keeping fisli-sauces hot. Next is a cast iron steam closet, four feet seven inches wide, two feet two inches deep, divided into three parts, the two shelves are of iron, two inches and a half thick, therein are deposited all the fish dressed and waiting to be taken up. Near it is another closet, five feet and a half long and two wide, wanned THE REFORM CLUB. 627 also by steam, with sliding doors for china dishes and covers; the top, which is on a level with the delivery window, is of cast iron and heated by the same means, therefore every dish from the time they are dressed up to the time they reach their destination, keeps moving from one place to another in or upon places kept hot for that purpose. In the corner next to delivery window is the desk for the clerk of the kitchen, the size is four feet long and three feet wide, with a seat, all the orders are sent from the dining-room by a wooden pipe of communication, and after each dinner is served the bill is sent up in the same way. Every dish is called for by the clerk at the hour ordered. On his left are three voice conductors with bells communicating to all parts of the club where culinary services are required. Turning to the left is the large and principal French stove, fifteen feet three inches long by three feet nine inches wide. GAS STOVES, ETC. beginning with a bain marie two feet and a half square, warmed by steam, with two taps for hot and cold water. This bain marie is for soups and sauces especially prepared for the coffee-room. By the side is a column sup¬ porting the ceiling, round it at a proper height are three rows of hooks for fryingpan covers, spoons, forks, skimming ladles, &c. Along the stove at back is the coping wall separating the two kitchens, on which are fixed two grated iron shelves, upon which are placed a number of stewpans and moulds of all sizes. Further on is situated the stoves where entrees, soups, &c., are prepared, being a grate for a charcoal fire in the centre, with one of my new gas stoves upon each side, which afford the greatest comfort ever introduced in any culinary arrangement; each stove is divided into five com- G28 KITCHEN OE partments, (see Plate) each having a separate pipe and brass cock, with a separate main pipe to each stove, which supplies sufficient gas to burn the whole five compartments at once, or only one by not turning the gas into any of the other compartments, or if all burning at once the fire may be regulated to any height you may think proper by means of the brass cocks, turning the gas either full or only partially on. It possesses also the follow¬ ing advantages: you obtain the same heat as from charcoal the moment it is lit, it is a fire that never requires making up, is free from carbonic acid which is so pernicious, especially in small kitchens, and creates neither dust or smell (except the gas should neglectfully be not properly turned off), and by my last improvement it is also now quite free from smoke. With the aid of my new octagonal trivet* I can place nine stewpans over without the fear of upsetting either, some only simmering and others boiling at the same time, which is invaluable, as by the gentle simmering you are enabled to extract all the fat from soups or sauces, assisting in the clarification, and causing them to digest more freely. The gas stoves also tend to greater economy, as they are not lit till the moment wanted, then only the quantity required, and may be put out the moment it is done with, I think it a great pity that they can only be fitted in London and other large towns daily supplied with gas, but it is there it is most required, as the kitchens are smaller than in country houses, no heat whatever being created in the smallest kitchens by the use of gas stoves. Further on at the end of the stove and parallel with the bain marie there is another, two feet six inches square with two taps for hot and cold water, used for keeping sauces hot for a private dinner in the house dinner room, being three different bain maries, one for fish sauce, one for the coffee-room, and one for the private dinner. Next is a slate sink two feet and a half long, one foot two inches wide, and eleven inches deep, with two taps for hot and cold water used for washing various kitchen utensils used at the charcoal stoves. Above the sink, hot plate, and bain marie, is an iron rack nine feet long with hooks to hang large saute-pans. Near it is a hot plate two feet six inches square heated by steam, upon which are placed dishes prepared for dinners and from thence removed to the house dinner-lift, which is drawn up either by steam or hand machine. T lie sink trap bell is one of the most simple and useful fixtures of a kitchen; ■ The old fashioned triangular trivets seemed to have been made as inconvenient as possible, being made only for one large stewpan to stand over the fire, not leaving room for any smaller ones round. f The maker of these gas stoves is Mr. Rikett, who constructs them to perfection at a trifling expense according to their merit. BAIN MARIE, SINK, UOT PLATE, AND RACK POE, SAUTE-PANS. THF REFORM CLUB. 629 I invented it after twelve months of the greatest inconvenience arising from a complete stoppage in many of the drains of the club, which not only created an offensive effluvia but frequently caused the opening of the greater portion of the basement of the house. Since the introduction of the trap bell to the sinks throughout the kitchen department such offence has entirely ceased. The bell is made of copper and is six inches long and ten in circumference. It screws to the sink and has several holes pierced through for the passage of the water only and the prevention of anything else passing down. It will be seen that the plug is attached to a rod, which is in its turn joined to a chain. By pulling the latter the plug is removed and if it be necessary to keep it open a link of the chain may be attached to a nail fas¬ tened in the wall. The expense is a mere trifle, the comfort none can fully appreciate. I am happy to add that my example has since been followed with s im ilar success throughout the club, and that it has been likewise copied in many noblemen’s and club-house kitchens. I now beg leave to remark to my readers that if I have been a little tedi¬ ous or profuse in giving the exact measurement of the different parts and every object of this kitchen by feet and inches, it was with the view to be useful to those who have honoured me with their subscription, and the public; I dare hope that my humble efforts will have the effect of producing hereafter a reform in the art of building and fitting up a kitchen which, without being of an immoderate size, contains all that can be wished for as ) regards saving of time, comfort, regularity, cleanliness, and economy. I am happy to have this opportunity of acknowledging that without the great liberality of the honorable members of the Reform Club, and the kindness of that celebrated architect Mr. Barry, I could never have succeeded in accomplishing the improvements so essential in a well regulated establish¬ ment ; I shall, therefore, remain always gratified for the encouragement they never ceased to give me in confiding to my direction this new system of building and fitting up a kitchen which is now in active operation, not only for the economy of the Reform Club but to serve as a guide to the amateurs of a good kitchen as well as of good living. END OF DESCRIPTION. ’ MY KITCHEN AT HOME. Do not fancy, gentle reader, under this title to see a wonder of the age, as regards grandeur and magnitude, but for comfort and convenience you will find a correct miniature of the kitchen, the plan of which I have just de¬ scribed, the room being only large enough for one or two persons to work in instead of fourteen, and intended to supply parties of from eight to ten instead of a hundred and above ; whether of great or little importance every¬ thing, more or less, has its share of merit when well-contrived, and by the same rule, these two culinary departments, although upon a very different scale, possess the same advantages. In publishing my plan of the kitchen of the Reform Club, many persons could not conceive my motive for so doing, saying that no private family would ever be in want of so large a kitchen, and it would be madness to go to such an expense, with which reason I fully concurred, but being aware at the same time that all my new plans and discoveries might he reduced to any scale, those just observations have induced me to make My Kitchen at Home as complete in its way as the other, and to be able to afford the facility to any man cook, if employed upon any extraordinary occasions, to dress a first-rate dinner, as well from the receipts adapted for the wealthy, as from those under the heading of My Kitchen at Home. The completeness of the arrangements, although much smaller, would at first become rather expensive, but would last almost for ever; should they, however, be too expensive for some of my readers, a reduction might be made in some of the fittings or apparatus, but still keeping to the same style, and retaining the most useful and serviceable, but as any curtailing would disfigure this little model, I will, for the convenience of some, present my readers with the plan of a smaller one, under the denomination of the Bachelor’s Kitchen, which unfortunate class are often individually deprived of any kind of real homely comfort; and to be still more sociable, I have even added the smallest of all kitchens, being that of the Cottage. My intention, in giving the plans of several smaller kitchens, is to prove what I have before advanced, that I could easily introduce any of my plans, or apparatus, into kitchens of the smallest dimensions. I now must politely beg of my readers to refer to page 633, where they will see a correct plan of my small Kitchen at Home, under which title I shelter myself from culinary criticisms, because every man is, or ought to be, allowed to do anything he likes “at home.” REFERENCE TO PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME. THE KITCHEN. a. The kitchen-grate, for roasting, constructed with perpendicular bars, about two feet in height, and backed with Welsh lumps. The opening of the grate has a slide, working up and down, to regulate the draught. b. A boiler behind the grate, from which a constant supply of hot water is obtained. c. The smoke-jack. o. The screen and plate-warmer. e. The dripping-pan. f. The ash-pit, having an air drain attached, communicating with an air brick at the exterior, to increase the draught required to turn the smoke-jack; it would also prevent the chimney from smoking. g. The oven, heated by a fire beneath. h. The bain marie, heated by hot water circulating from the boiler. i. The hot plate, heated by a fire. The coal would be kept underneath. k. A charcoal, or gas stove. l. Thick kitchen table, with sliding shelves and rows of drawers. m. Place for wet sponge to wipe the table. nn. Seasoning box, and fish-sauce box, made to turn on centre pivots. o. Dresser with cupboards beneath, to put four entree services of china ; above it the shelves and hooks for covers, baking-sheet, &c. p. Iron rail, or shelf for coppers. a. Dresser for dishes, with drawers for small kitchen utensils, one drawer for fat and a slide-board ; over it a rail, with hooks for the covers. r. Iron rail similar to preceding. s. Rack for the spits, as described in the Kitchen of the Reform Club. t. The scrubbing-board. u. The hot water tub, with taps. w. The cold water tub. x. The draining-board, grooved and inclined towards the cold water tub. y. The plate-rack ; that part which is over the tub being perforated with holes at the bottom. The other half of the bottom is inclined in the direction of the holes. z. A cistern, in the front area. the larder. a. A dresser with drawers beneath, to deposit sauces and cold meat. b. Flour box. c. Narrow upright closet for preserves and spice jars. d. Marble slab for pastry, with ice drawers, and pickle drawers beneath. e. Mortar. f. Safe for cooked meat. g. Rail hung from the ceiling to hang up meat and game. h. Boxes of different sizes in two tiers; they are made of slate with wooden moveable fronts, and are for vegetables. i. Iron rail above, for moulds and spices. k. Potatoes. PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME. SOY E R. iNvi REFERENCE TO PLANS. THE BACHELOR’S KITCHEN. a. The grate, with upright bars about eighteen inches in height, and Welsh lumps at the back. Near the bottom of the grate are small openings to assist the draught, which communicate with an air drain from the exterior. The open¬ ings can be regulated by slides. b. The boiler. c. Reservoir to supply boiler, the pipe from which has a ball-cock. d. The oven. e. The hot closet. Below this is a tap to procure hot water from the boiler. f. The screen and plate-warmer. g. The dripping-pan. h. The smoke-jack. i. A double gridiron. This is moveable, and hangs from a bracket which clasps upon the top bar of the grate. It can be moved to any distance from the bars, and can be turned without removing it from its position on the bracket. For this purpose there is a swivel-joint about the middle of the handle. j. Swing bracket, to support a pan. k. A charcoal or gas stove. l. Rack for the spits, as described in the kitchen of the Reform Club. mm } Iron shelves of open rails for the coppers, &c., about seven feet from the m ) floor. n. The sink, furnished with taps for hot and cold water. It has the bell trap, of which a drawing has already been given. Under the sink the coal-box is kept. o. The plate-rack, placed above the sink. p. The dresser, with slide boards and drawers, a. Place for the sponge and water. r. The spice-box. s. The meat-safe. This is divided into two compartments, for raw and cooked meat. It is placed outside the building, and runs upon wheels and rails, being drawn forwards or pushed back. With this object a chain is attached to the front, and there is a weight, made to counterbalance the weight of the safe, exclusive of the contents. There is a slide board near the foot of the dresser to stand upon. The plan represents the safe in its position, when not in use. It could readily be adapted to balconies in existing buildings. It might be desirable to have the wire gauze double. t. Dresser, with marble top, to make pastry upon. Beneath are the vegetable boxes in two ranges; they are shown by dotted lines, v. The mortar, which stands upon a block of wood, slightly hollowed to receive it. When not in use it can be placed beneath the dresser. There is an iron ring above, as in the other kitchens, for the handle of the pestle to work through, ww. Closets for preserves and other purposes, x. Shelves. THE COTTAGE KITCHEN. a. The grate, as before. b. The boiler. c. Reservoir to supply boiler. d. Oven. e. The screen. This is a simple wooden rail covered with tin, and can be used as a clothes-horse. f. Swing bracket, to support a pan. g. Bracket for roasting, and gridiron, before described. h. Ash-pit, and air drain communicating with the exterior. i. The sink, with taps for hot and cold water. The coal-box may be placed under¬ neath. k. Plate-rack. l. Water-butt. m. The dresser, with drawers and slide boards. n. Place for the sponge and water. o. Salt and spice-box. p. The meat-safe, placed at the upper part of the larder, which is well ventilated by panes of perforated zinc in the window, a. Potatoes, beneath the stairs. r. Plate shelves, s. Shelves for the pans, below the plate shelves. t. Copper. THE. BACHELORS KITCHEN i ii i n i Si I |t± J* *L j> ♦ ♦ < KITCHEN —BBB 'INCHES^ iiiiHAiii m KITCHEN LAR'DLR J. \UALM5LEY. 5* EDWARD HALLARCt DEL INCHES A.SOYER* INV I DINNER PARTY AT HOME. BILL OP PARE FOR EIGHT PERSONS. 1 Sour. Prencli Pot au Peu. t> zn & p 1 Pish. 3 Slices of Salmon en matelote. 2 Removes. Braised Bowls with spring vegetables. Leg of Mutton basted with devil’s tears. 2 Entrees. Lamb Cutlets with asparagus, peas. Salmi of Plovers with mushrooms. No. 131. Fowls with Spring Vegetables. Braise a poularde as di¬ rected for the turkey, and make a sauce from the braise as there directed; then have twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, lightly peeled, and three parts boded, with twenty small onions, drain and put them into your sauce, which you have made as (No. 136), with a good teaspoonful of powdered sugar; stew them gently until tender, then dress the poularde upon your dish, arrange the vegetables tastefully around, mix half a gill of cream with the sauce, hoil a feAV minutes, sauce over the whole and serve. No. 132. Fow r LS Braised Fricassee Sauce. Braise the fowls as before, and make the sauce from the braise, in which put a hunch of parsley, fifty button onions, and a pottle of mushrooms, both well peeled, stew half an hour, add a little sugar, salt, and a gill of cream, boil a few minutes, sauce over and serve. Chickens may be dressed in either of the above methods, calculating the time they require cooking by their size. No. 133. Roast Goose. Pluck, draw, and truss a goose, fill the inside with sage and onions, by cutting four large onions into small dice, and put them into a stewpan with a few leaves of sage (chopped fine), and a couple of well-boiled mealy potatoes, crumbled very small, add two ounces of butter, and a little pepper and salt; when the onions become tender stuff the goose, the day previous if time permit, which roast an hour and a quarter before a moderate fire, serve plain, with a little gravy on the dish, and apple sauce separate. 672 KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 134. Ducks may also be stuffed and roasted as a goose, a few apples may also be used with the stuffing instead of potatoes, for either ducks or geese, if approved of. No. 135. Ducks a l’Aubergiste (or Tavern-keeper’s Fashion). Truss one or two ducks with the legs turned inside, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter ; place them over a slow fire, turning round occasionally, until they have taken a nice brown colour, add two spoonfuls of flour, mix well with them, add a quart of water, with half a tablespoonful of salt and sugar, let simmer gently until the ducks are done (but adding forty button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to boil), keep hot; peel and cut ten turnips in slices, fry them in a frying-pan in butter, drain upon a cloth, put them into the sauce, and stew until quite tender; dress the ducks upon your dish, skim the fat from the sauce, which has attained a consis¬ tency, pour round the ducks and serve. SIMPLIFIED ENTREES. The word entree is a French culinary term (universally known by the nobility and gentry of Europe) signifying a corner or made dish in which sauce is introduced, the importance of which is known in the kitchens of the wealthy as forming the size and magnitude of a dinner; being con¬ sidered as the principal dish upon which it is intended to dine well, the wealthy epicure orders his cook to prepare a dinner of four, six, or eight entrees, thus making a criterion for the second course, which, in the opinion of real gourmets, is a secondary consideration of delight, and very often left entirely to the cook. But when a lady of moderate income is consulted, she very properly devotes all her attention, good taste, and economy to the subject. The entrees, however, which I am here about to describe are very econo¬ mical ; whilst those entrees of importance, which are so well known for their excellence and unavoidable expense, I have left to those whose means will better afford it, and content myself with here offering to my readers those only with which I would be content in placing before my friends at home. My readers will find that certain made dishes, instead of being expensive, tend to greater economy, every ordinary cook might be perfect in roasting and boiling a joint, but quite incapable of making a single made dish to per¬ fection, even from the remains of a joint. In a tradesman’s family it often happens that he dines once or twice a week from a Sunday joint, either in winter or summer ; in the last it is partly excusable, but in the former hot meat, for such an important meal, is much more preferable, being more light than cold, and of course digests more freely ; to prove the truth of this argu¬ ment, pickles are continually used with cold meat to invigorate and open the appetite, and facilitate digestion; I would always advise to take a little cold lunch, and a hot late dinner, if circumstances permit, and avoid as much as possible a supper, particularly a late one. SAUCES.—No. 136. For daily use I avoid making any foundation sauces, but when I want to give a little party at home, I generally previously provide a small quantity of white and brown sauce as follows: Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four pounds, into large KITCHEN AT HOME. C73 dice; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley tied in a bunch; add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, when fill up with three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half, keeping well skimmed, when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin ; in another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of flour, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once, continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mush¬ rooms if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round occasionally until cold ; the above being a simplified white sauce. For a brown sauce I use the same proportion as for the white, but having beef instead of veal for the stock, which must be made brown by placing four large onions cut in halves at the bottom of the stewpan, which must be well buttered, placing the meat over, standing upon the fire, and drawing down to a brown glaze before filling up, the thickening must also be made brown, by stirring a few minutes longer over the fire, and the milk omitted. Some¬ times I make both stocks in the same stewpan, pass one half for the white sauce, and put a couple of burnt onions into the remainder, allowing it to simmer an hour longer, when pass and use for a brown sauce. No. 137. Melted Butter. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with which mix a good teaspoonful of flour, using a wooden spoon, add a saltspoonful of salt, half a one of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and half a pint of water, stir over the fire until just upon the point of boiling, when take off, add two ounces more butter, and half a tablespoonful of vinegar, keeping it stirred until quite smooth, and the butter well melted, when pass through a hair sieve or tammie if required (you can also use milk instead of water for the above), it is then ready for use; in making melted butter great attention ought to be paid to the above directions, it being almost in daily use. No. 138. New and Economical Lobster Sauce. Break up a fresh lobster, use the solid flesh for salad or any other purpose, pound the soft part and shell together (in a mortar) very fine, place the whole in a stewpan, cover with a pint of boiling water, place over the fire, and let simmer ten minutes, when pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin, and use for making melted butter as in the last, to which add a little cayenne pepper and a piece of anchovy butter (see page 31) the size of a walnut; if any red spawn in the lobster, pound and mix it with a small piece of fresh butter, and add to the sauce with a little lemon-juice when upon the point of serving ; an anchovy pounded with the shells of the lobster would be an improvement, some of the flesh may be served in the sauce. No. 139. Lobster Sauce a la Creme. Cut up a small lobster into slices, the size of half-crown pieces, put into a stewpan, pound the soft and white part with an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve; pour three spoonfuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the slices in the stew- 43 674 KITCHEN AT HOME. pan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne, warm gently, and when upon the point of boiling add the butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream, shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is ready to serve. No. 140. Lobster Sauce simplified. Put the slices of lobster as above into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of milk, add a little pepper, salt, cayenne, two cloves, and a quarter of a blade of mace, let boil, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a little flour, shake round over the fire, and when getting thick add half a gill of cream, when quite hot it is ready to serve. No. 141. Shrimp Sauce is very excellent made by pounding half a pint of shrimps with their skins, boiling ten minutes in three parts of a pint of water, finishing as directed for lobster sauce (No. 138), and always serving very hot. No. 142. Anchovy Sauce is made by adding a spoonful of Harvey sauce and two of essence of anchovy, with a little cayenne, to half a pint of melted butter; shrimps, prawns, or even blanched oysters may be served in it. No. 143. Oyster Sauce. Put two dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their liquor, and two spoonfuls of water, add six peppercorns, and half a blade of mace, blanch them until just set, drain the oysters upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan, detach the beards from the oysters, which put again into the liquor, place over the fire; when beginning to sim¬ mer, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste, breaking it in four of five pieces, shake round over the fire, when it thickens add a gill of milk, season with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, and a few drops of essence of anchovies, serve very hot. Another way. Blanch and save the liquor as above, omitting the water; reduce to half, add eight spoonfuls of melted butter made with milk, season rather high, adding a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce and one of essence of an¬ chovy, it is then ready for use. No. 144. Caper Sauce. Make half a pint of good melted butter, to which add a tablespoonful of capers and a teaspoonful of their vinegar. Observe, that all fish sauces are better too thick than too thin, the fish being watery, the sauce would not envelope it if too thin. No. 145. To chop Onions, Herbs, etc. Every practical cook knows how to chop the above ingredients to perfection, but many plain cooks instead of chopping, literally smash them with their knives, thus losing the succulence and flavour, which becomes absorbed by the wood they are smashed upon. For onions, peel, and cut in halves lengthwise, then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at the root; again cut into slices con- trarywise, and then from top to bottom, thus having it cut into very small squares ; then take the knife lightly with the right hand, place two fingers of the left upon the point, and commence chopping, lifting the knife entirely every stroke, not digging the point into the board, and pressing heavily upon the handle as is too commonly the case; when chopped very fine put them KITCHEN AT HOME. 075 into the corner of a clean cloth, which rince in water to wash them, squeeze quite dry in the cloth, they will be then as white as possible, and quite ready for use. Eschalots are chopped in the same manner, cutting first into small dice, without cutting them in halves. For parsley or herbs, previously wash very clean, take the stalks in your left hand (when quite dry), pressing upon the leaves with your fingers, hold¬ ing the knife with your right hand, cutting as fine as possible ; chop as di¬ rected for the onions. By following the above directions you will be enabled to chop them very fine, scarcely staining the board ; the above directions to some may appear superfluous, but the difference made in the flavour of sauces, by their being well or badly chopped, being so great, caused me to make the above observations. No. 146. To make a Colouring or Browning from Sugar. Put two ounces of white powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan which place over a slow fire, when beginning to melt, stir round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black, when set it in a moderate oven upon a trivet about twenty minutes, pour a pint of cold water over, let dissolve, place in a bottle, and use wherever directed in my Kitchen at Home. economical made dishes. No. 147. Fillet of Beef or a small rump steak is very excellent dressed in the following new way : Procure a piece of fillet of beef, weighing from three to four pounds, which can be purchased in any butcher’s shop, being the under part of the rump ; trim it a little, taking off part of the skin, leaving a piece of fat half an inch in thickness upon each side, cut it crosswise in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, making about six pieces, beat lightly, giving them a roundish shape ; place them upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, season whilst broiling with about a saltspoonful of salt, and the half of one of black pep¬ per, turn them once or twice whilst upon the gridiron, which process will keep the gravy in, and when done dress them immediately upon a dish, in which you have put the following simple but excellent sauce, which I usually make over an ordinary fire: put the yolks of four eggs in a stewpan or iron saucepan, with half a pound of fresh butter (rather firm) cut into slices, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, the juice of half a lemon, and half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; set upon a slow fire, keep stirring quickly with a wooden spoon in every direction, until becoming rather thick, when remove it from the fire half a minute, still stirring, then again upon the fire, stirring until the butter is quite melted, but congealed with the yolks of eggs, forming a smooth thickish sauce ; should it, however, be too thick, add a little milk or cream, and if requiring more seasoning add a little pepper and salt, with the juice of the other half lemon ; proceed the same for rump steak, but if for a corner dish, the fillet would be prefer¬ able, as the steak wmuld be too large, appearing clumsy. The above quantity would be sufficient for a party of ten, but a much smaller quantity might be made. A great improvement would be to have four or five middling-sized po- t'i tatoes, peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and afterwards into thin slices | crosswise; have ready upon the fire a stewpan, containing lard or dripping, 076 KITCHEN AT HOME. when hot (which you may perceive by the smoke arising from it, or by throwing a drop of water in, if sufficiently hot it will hiss and snap), put in the slices of potatoes, and fry about ten minutes until crisp, and a very light brown colour; care must be taken that the fat is not too hot, or the po¬ tatoes would be burnt before they were sufficiently cooked. Another method of frying potatoes, although rather more extravagant, is very simple and excellent; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan or saucepan, and when melted put in twenty small new potatoes, if in season, or potatoes cut as before, place over a sharp fire, stirring them occasionally, until of a nice gold colour; should they absorb all the butter, add a little more, when done sprinkle a little salt over, and serve round the fillet or steak ; this may be used in many instances in the kitchens of the wealthy. No. 148. A New Steak. Procure a piece of ribs of beef containing a couple of bones, from which detach the meat, and cut three steaks length¬ wise, beat lightly with the cutlet-bat, trim a little, broil one or two, sea¬ soning them well, and serve with sauce and fried potatoes as before. No. 149. Fillet or Steak a la Maitre d’Hotel. Cut, trim, and broil the fillet or steaks, from either the rump or ribs of beef, as before (always over a sharp fire) ; place them upon your dish, have ready two ounces of butter, with which you have mixed a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of white pepper, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon, rub all over the steaks, turning them three or four times, the butter mixing with the gravy forms an admirable sauce ; serve with fried potatoes round as before. The above steaks or fillets are also very excellent broiled as above, and served with anchovy butter (page 33), instead of the butter prepared as last directed, and using one ounce instead of two. Should any of the above steaks be required plain broiled, to give them an extra zest, sprinkle chopped eschalots in addition to the other seasoning over previous to placing them upon the gridiron ; a steak cut of the ordinary size, would require ten minutes broiling over a good fire. Mutton and lamb chops, or even cotelettes, are very good dressed in the before-mentioned man¬ ners ; a little glaze, if handy, is also an improvement. For mutton chops, a little Harvey sauce and chili vinegar poured over just before taking from the gridiron renders them very beautiful eating. No. 150. A New Mutton or Lamb Chop. Having previously and suc¬ cessfully introduced a new joint (the saddle-back), I thought I would also introduce a new form of mutton or lamb chops, and adopted the following one, as represented in the engraving, which is not only very novel, but the manner in which they are cut, by jagging the meat, causes them to eat much lighter and better, they being sawed off the saddle instead of cut from the loin, proceed as follows : Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton, which cut into chops, half an inch in thickness, with a saw, without at all making use of a knife; then trim to the shape represented in the drawing; season well with salt and pepper, place upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times, they will require about ten minutes cooking; when done place them upon a dish, spread a small piece of fresh butter (if approved of) over each, and serve. The bone keeping the gravy in whilst cooking, is a very KITCHEN AT HOME. 677 great advantage in having chops cut after the above method. At home, when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut three or four such chops from it, cook and rub maitre d’hotel butter over, and serve them with fried po¬ tatoes round, using the remainder of the saddle as a joint the next day. The above are also excellent seasoned, dipped into eggs, and bread-crumbed previous to broiling ; for lamb chops proceed precisely the same, only broiling them a few minutes less. No. 151. Veal Cutlets. Cut four cutlets from the neck, half an inch in thickness, beat lightly with a chopper, and cut off the chine-bones, season them well; have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip them, then into bread-crumbs, take out, pat gently with a knife, and broil rather more than ten minutes upon a gridiron over a good fire, turning occa¬ sionally, keeping them of a very light brown colour ; dress upon a dish, spreading a piece of the maitre d’hotel butter over each, turning them two or three times in the dish, and serving very hot. Veal cutlets are also very good served with the new sauce as for fillets of beef or steaks, and the fried po¬ tatoes around them. No. 152. Pork Chops. Take four chops from a loin of pork, each about half an inch in thickness, beat them lightly, trim, season well with pepper and salt, broil nearly a quarter of an hour over a good fire, and serve very hot upon a dish, with or without apple-sauce in a boat. No. 153. Pork or Veal Chops Fried. Put one ounce of butter in a saute or frying-pan, rub over the bottom, lay in four chops, well sea¬ soned as in either of the two last; place the pan over a moderate fire, when the chops become coloured upon one side, turn them over, they will require turning two or three times before done; when done, and of a nice colour, take them out, and place upon a dish ; put a spoonful of chopped onions in the pan, which fry until becoming of a brownish colour, then take off as much of the fat as possible, add a teaspoonful of flour (mix well with a wooden spoon), and moisten with half a pint of water; stir quickly, add a bay-leaf, and when boiling, season with half a saltspoonful of pepper, two of of salt, one of sugar, and two spoonfuls of vinegar, stir over the fire until forming a sauce, when again lay in the chops, let simmer five minutes, dress the chops upon a dish, add two chopped gherkins, to the sauce, which pour over and serve, a little brown colouring (No. 146) added to the sauce would improve their appearance. 678 KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 154. Hashed Beef is made from any description of roast beef, it may also be made from stewed, but roast is preferable; cut about a pound and a half of meat into thin slices, using a small quantity of the fat; lay them upon a dish, sprinkle a spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper, place the meat in a stew T pan, moisten with half a pint of water or light broth, if handy; add a little colouring (No. 146) to give a nice brown colour, place it upon the fire, allowing it to warm gently, stirring oc¬ casionally, simmering a quarter of an hour, taste if requiring more seasoning, if so add a little and serve very hot immediately. In making a hash of any description, avoid having to keep it hot as much as possible, or it would be¬ come greasy, and likewise prevent the hash boiling over the fire, which would cause the meat to eat hard and tough. If the beef has been well roasted, as described (page 639), the remainder being underdone, makes an excellent and very nutritious hash. To vary any description of hash, it may be served upon a large piece of buttered toast, or half a spoonful of chopped onions may be added with the flour and seasoning; chopped parsley may also be added with a spoonful of catsup, two of Harvey sauce, two of vinegar, or one of chili vinegar, four nice green gherkins in slices may also be added at the time of serving. Some fresh mushrooms from the fields, cleaned, and stewed in the hash, is also a great improvement, a bay-leaf also added imparts a pleasant flavour. A little meat left upon the bones, well peppered and broiled, are frequently served with the hash. No. 155. Remains of Salt Beef, although very good cold, in winter is very desirable made hot; one of the best methods of doing which is to con¬ vert it into that old fashioned dish entitled bubble aud squeak ; the beef should be, as usual, rather underdone, and cut into slices not thicker than a five- shilling-piece, then put two ounces of butter in a saute or frying-pan, when melted lay in the beef, which place over a quick fire, frying both sides of a yellowish brown colour, when take them out upon a dish, keeping them hot; you have previously boiled six or eight greens or one Savoy cabbage, which chop fine, season with four saltspoonfuls of salt and one of black pepper, place in the same pan you fried the beef in over the fire, keep turning them over until quite hot, when dress upon a dish with the beef over, and serve. A few slices of fat ought to be fried with the beef. Another way of warming salt beef, is to cut slices and lay in a pan with just sufficient water to cover them ; place over the fire, add about an ounce of fresh butter mixed with a little flour, a little Harvey sauce, and a piece of glaze about the size of a walnut, if handy. Another way would be to lay the slices in a saute or frying-pan well buttered, place over the fire and fry a light brown colour, pour off as much of the fat as possible, add a quarter of a pint of water, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, shake round over the fire a minute or two, add two spoonfuls of piccalilly cut in slices, two ditto of the liquor, and one of the colouring (No. 146), and serve over when ready. No. 156. Ox Tails en Currie. Have ready some ox tails dressed as described in page 273, (they will keep several days in a basin covered with their own stock), when wanted warm them in their stock, cut four onions into very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, fry over a slow fire until the onions become brown and pulpy, when KITCHEN AT HOME. 679 add a nicely boiled mealy potato (peeled), a tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, or one and a half of the powder, mix all well together, moisten with three parts of a pint of the stock from the tails ; then add the tails, stirring them round gently until well covered with the sauce, set over a slow fire to stew very slowly for half an hour, moving them round occa¬ sionally, finish with a little salt and the juice of half a lemon ; dress upon a dish pyramidically, pour the sauce, which must be rather thick, over, and serve with rice boiled as directed (page 51), upon a separate dish. Another way for a change, would be to introduce four very ripe tomatas at the same time with the potato and currie-powder, omitting the lemon-juice, and adding half a teaspoonful of sugar. A tablespoonful of currie-paste added to any description of hash would convert it into a very good currie. No. 157. Ragout of Ox Tails. Cut two ox tails into pieces two inches in length, rub two ounces of butter over the bottom of a convenient¬ sized stewpan, place in the pieces of tails, with half a pound of streaked bacon cut into square pieces the size of walnuts, place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally until nicely browned, but not in the least burnt, add two ounces of flour (mix well) and three pints of water, when boiling and half cooked add a bunch of parsley, with two bay-leaves, twenty young carrots, or pieces of old ones, and twenty button onions, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper, let simmer until the tails and vegetables are quite tender, keeping well skimmed, when take out and dress them in pyramid upon mashed potatoes, garnish round with the vegetables, pass the sauce through a hair sieve into another stewpan, place over the fire, stir wuth a wooden spoon until adhering to the back, when pour over the tails, and serve very hot. No. 158. Ox Cheeks are very delicate when well stewed, and may be purchased very cheap, they require soaking all night, and about six hours to blanch in salt and water, until the flesh will detach easily from the bone, when take it out, remove the bone, place some onion, carrot, and turnip, in slices, in a large flat stewpan, with a piece of bacon, a few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves, cover with a little stock (if any) or water, place the flesh from the cheek over, put in a moderate oven until very tender, when take up, dress upon a dish, and serve with a sharp sauce over. Ox cheeks may also be served in currie, or converted into a ragout after blanching, as directed for ox tails. Should you happen to have the remains of a fresh ox tongue it would be very good cut in slices, warmed, and served with a sharp sauce, or hashed ; the remains of a pickled one may be used in any little made dish of veal, or poultry, hereafter described; to some persons it is, however, preferable cold. No. 159. Ox Kidneys are very good for breakfast or luncheon; cut the kidneys into thin slices, avoiding the piece in the centre, put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a little chopped eschalots, place over the fire, when becoming a little browned add the kidneys, which keep stirring for five minutes still over the fire, add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), two glasses of sherry, two of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and a bay-leaf, let simmer gently five minutes, not, however, to boil, or they would become hard and indigestible, should the sauce be too thin add a little butter and flour mixed together, it 680 KITCHEN AT HOME. requires to be sufficiently thick to envelope the kidneys ; when done pour out upon a dish and serve very hot. A few raw mushrooms stewed with the kidneys is also a great improvement. A bullock’s heart is a favourite dish with some persons ; soak an hour in lukewarm water to disgorge, dry, and stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, roast an hour and a half before a moderate fire, and serve very hot, with a little veal sauce (see page 647) around; proceed the same for calves’ or sheep’s hearts, but of course they will require less time. No. 160. Calf’s Head. Should you have any left from a previous dinner it may be dressed in various ways. To hash calf’s head cut into good slices not too thin, or it would have a bad appearance, put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a wineglassful of vinegar, six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and a gill of broth, reduce to half over the fire, then add the slices of calf’s head and a gill more broth, season with a little pepper and salt, when quite hot through add half an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, first breaking it into four or five pieces, shake round over the fire until becoming a little thickish, add a little colouring (No. 146) to give alight brown colour pour out upon your dish, and serve with a few slices of gherkins sprinkled over. Calf’s head may also be cut in slices, warmed, and served with some of the sauces as directed for fillet of beef, or curried as for the ox tails (No. 156) ; hashed calf’s head with a couple of spoonfuls of currie paste added is also very excellent. No. 161. Calf’s Brains and Tongue. Boil the tongue in stock or water until tender, lay the brains in lukewarm water to disgorge, then care¬ fully take oft’ all the skin, put about a quarter of a pound of butter in a saute- pan, rub all over the bottom, cut the brains in slices, lay them in the pan, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, place over a moderate fire, and when set turn them over, add about a gill of melted butter, and a little milk, if too thick, season a little more if required, shake the saute-pan round, moving the brains from the bottom, but not breaking them, and pour upon a dish, skin and trim the tongue, cut it in halves lengthwise, glaze and serve dressed upon the brains. Sheep and lamb’s tongues and brains are dressed in precisely the same manner as the calf’s. No. 162. Veal Cutlets, the English Method. Procure a piece of fillet of veal weighing about four pounds, from which (to the best advantage) cut eight or ten pieces of the shape and size of fillets of fowl, season lightly with a little pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs, well beaten, upon a plate, into which dip the cutlets, and afterwards into bread-crumbs, beat lightly, then cut four or five slices of streaked bacon, which fry in a saute or frying-pan, wdien done take out and lay in the cutlets, which fry of a nice light brown colour, dress the bacon and cutlets alternately upon your dish, pour as much fat as possible out of the pan, into which pour a quarter of a pint of water, and the same of melted butter, boil until becoming rather thickish, when add a tablespoonful of Ilarvey sauce, one of catsup, a little colouring (No. 146), and a little pepper and salt, boil another second, pass through a sieve over the cutlets, and serve. Veal cutlets cut and fried as above may also be served upon some very light mashed potatoes, omitting the sauce. KITCHEN AT HOME. 681 No. 163. Sweetbreads. I never can procure sweetbreads at home except in the autumn or winter season of the year, so many families being then out of town, they may be procured at a very reasonable price; I usually dress them thus : lay them in water three or four hours to disgorge, blanch two minutes in boiling water, take out and put them into another stewpan, with a few slices of onions, carrot, turnip, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, six peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a small piece of bacon, cover over with a little broth if any, place over the fire, and let boil about twenty minutes, then take out, dry them on a cloth, egg all over, throw into bread-crumbs, run a skewer through each, tie them to a spit and roast of a nice brown colour before a sharp fire, a quarter of an hour would be sufficient, they might also be browned in a hot oven, or fried in very hot lard or dripping ten minutes, then, however, they must be stewed rather longer, serve them with vege¬ table garniture of any description, if peas, merely plain boiling them, putting them in a stewpan, with a little sugar, pepper, salt, and a piece of fresh butter, toss them round over the fire until very hot, pour them into the dish, and dress the sweetbreads over, or serve with French beans dressed also in the same manner, spinach dressed as directed (page 43), or merely with the following sauce : put a gill of melted butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of Harvey or Reading sauce, and a little catsup, boil altogether, and if too thick add a little water. If I cannot meet with heart sweetbreads, I in general satisfy myself with the throats. No. 164. Calf’s Liver Stewed, French Fashion. Procure a small delicate liver, cut twenty pieces of fat bacon, three inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, then with a larding-needle run them into the liver crosswise, put two ounces of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, with half a pound of lean uncooked ham, keep stirring over a sharp fire until the ham becomes rather brownish, then lay in the liver, cover the stewpan, stir round occa¬ sionally until the liver has become quite firm and of a brownish colour, then add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of one of pepper, forty button onions, twenty young carrots, (or twenty pieces of old, previously blanched), half a pint of water, a bunch of parsley, with three sprigs of thyme and two bay-leaves, (tied together) four cloves, and a blade of mace, let simmer twenty minutes, then add twenty new potatoes, or old ones cut of the same size, cover the stewpan, and let stew gently until all the vegetables are done, when take out the bunch of herbs, dress the liver upon a dish with the vegetables and ham around it, skim all the fat from the gravy in the stewpan, pour over the vegetables and serve, if any remains it is excellent made hot the next day, or even to be eaten cold. No. 165. Calf’s Liver Fried. Cut the liver into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness, dip them in flour, and fry them in a saute or frying-pan in which yon have previously fried some slices of streaked bacon, fry the liver until quite browned and rather crisp, when take out and place it upon a dish with the bacon, pour as much of the fat as possible from the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of water, when boiling add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with -which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, shake the pan round over the fire until becoming rather tliickish, season with a little Harvey sauce, catsup, pepper, and salt, if too thick add a little more water, pour over the liver and serve. Or for variation, after the liver is well fried, 682 KITCHEN AT HOME. take it oat and put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in the pan, set upon the fire a minute, then pour off the greater part of the fat, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, and half a pint of broth or water, boil until forming a thickish sauce, season with pepper, salt, two spoonfuls of vinegar, a little sugar, and half a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, set upon the fire until quite hot, pour over the liver and serve. Or liver may be served plain fried with bacon, without any sauce whatever. Sheep or lamb’s liver may be dressed precisely in the same manner. With the' remains of a joint of veal, either roasted, boiled, or braised, I make mince, hashes, blanquettes, and even pies. For a blanquette of veal cut about a pound into thin slices of the size of half-crown-pieces, add also a few slices of cooked tongue, ham, or streaked bacon, season well with about a teaspoonful of chopped onions, half ditto of salt, and a quarter ditto of white pepper, add a gill of broth or water, warm gently, and when quite hot add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, shake round over the fire, when becoming thickish add half a gill of milk or cream, with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve (it must not boil after the egg and cream has been added) with triangular pieces of toasted or fried bread round. A blanquette of lamb made in the same manner is equally good. With the bones you may make a little stock by chopping them up into small pieces, and putting them into a stewpan, with an onion in slices, a bay-leaf, bunch of parsley, and a little raw ham, add water according to the quantity of bones, and boil rather more than half an hour, convert it into sauce by thickening with a little butter and flour, and use for hash, to make which cut the meat into small thin slices, put into a stewpan, with sufficient of the above sauce to moisten it, let simmer ten minutes, add two spoonfuls of vinegar and four gherkins in slices, season with a little white pepper and salt, pour upon your dish and serve. No. 166. Minced Veal and Poached Eggs is also a very favorite dish from the remains of veal; cut about a pound of the lean with a little of the fat, and two ounces of cooked ham into very small dice, put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, place over the fire, keep stirring until the onions change colour slightly, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of stock or milk, let boil ten minutes, add the mince, season well with white pepper and salt, when quite hot stir in a yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, do not let boil afterwards, finish with the juice of half a lemon, and pour upon your dish, have ready poached six eggs, by having a stewpan upon the fire with one quart of water, quarter of an ounce of salt, and a quarter of a gill of vinegar, when boiling break six eggs in separately, let boil from three to four minutes, draw oft’ the fire, take them out with a colander spoon, drain a moment upon a cloth, dress upon the mince, pour a little melted butter over each, and serve with triangular pieces of fried bread round. Minced lamb, beef, or mutton is done the same, using stock or w T ater instead of milk, and letting the onions with the thickening become a little brown over the fire, likewise omit the yolk of egg and cream, serve with the eggs precisely the same, any kind of mince must be rather thick that the eggs may rest on it. By finishing the minced veal with the yolks of three eggs, stirring a moment over the fire until set, and pouring upon a dish until cold, you can serve it in any shaped croquettes you please, taking pieces from it of KITCHEN AT HOME. 683 the size you may require, shaping them with a knife, dipping twice into eggs and bread-crumbs, patting them gently, frying a light brown colour in a stew- pan of hot lard or dripping, and serving upon a napkin garnished with fried parsley; they may be made in oblong shapes, the size and length of small sausages, and fried as above, they are then called boudins. Patties may also be made from cooked veal, preparing a blanquette as before described, and leaving it upon a dish until cold ; line six large patty¬ pans very thinly with half puff paste (see page 480), lay some of the veal in the centre of each, sprinkle a little water over, and cover with sheets of the same paste of the thickness of a five-shilling piece, egg over, crimp the edges a little with a knife, place a leaf of paste upon the top of each, and bake about twenty minutes in a very hot oven until the paste is well done. The remains of poultry, game, or any other description of meat may also be converted into patties in the same method as above. The remains of meat dressed as for the above patties is also very excellent for larger pies, filling the dish with it, when cold covering with paste, and baking in a rather warm oven. No. 167. Mutton Cutlets sautes. Cut eight cutlets from a neck of mutton, as directed (page 294), and put them into a saute-pan, with an ounce of butter, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire, when becoming a little browned turn them over, when firm to the touch they are done (which will take about ten minutes), take up and dress them upon your dish, pour as much of the fat as possible from the pan, add a quarter of a pint of water or broth, let boil until becoming a thin glaze, add a little sugar and a spoonful of Harvey sauce, pour over the cutlets and serve. Should you want a thick sauce you can obtain it by adding a small piece of butter, with which you have mixed a little flour, to the gravy in the saute-pan, add¬ ing also a little colouring (No. 146). No. 168. Mutton Cutlets saute with Vegetables. —Dress the cutlets as in the last, have some vegetables of all kinds (that is carrots, turnips, artichokes, and button onions) cut up small, stew them in a little broth with a little sugar until tender, when pour them into the saute-pan you cooked the cutlets in, reduce until the stock becomes a thin glaze, then dress the vegetables in the centre of the cutlets, sauce over, and serve. No. 169. Mutton Cutlets, Irish Method. Cut eight or ten mutton cutlets, season well with pepper and salt, place them in a stewpan, just cover them with water, let simmer gently twenty minutes, then add forty button onions, and as many pieces of potatoes, cut with a scoop in pieces a size larger; stew until tender, dress the cutlets in a circle upon your dish, with the vegetables in the centre, skim off some of the fat from the stock in the saute-pan, reduce a little, sauce over, and serve. No. 170. Mutton Cutlets Broiled. Cut eight or ten cutlets, season well with pepper and salt, dip them into eggs, then into bread-crumbs, beat gently with a knife, have a little butter in a stewpan, which melt over the fire ; dip each cutlet into the butter, and again into bread crumbs, beat again lightly, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire ; when lightly coloured upon one side turn them over; they will require about ten minutes to cook thoroughly; serve plain dressed upon your dish. 084 KITCHEN AT HOME. Dressed as above they may likewise be served with a maitre d’hotel sauce made thus : put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, when boiling add two ounces of maitre d’hotel butter (see p. 33), shake the stewpan round over the fire; when quite hot pour in the dish with the cutlets, have ready some thin slices of potatoes fried as for the fillet of beef, dress in pyramid in the centre, and serve. No. 171. Mutton Cutlets Harricoed. Cut ten cutlets from a neck of mutton, leaving them rather short, not beating them flat, and taking off some of the fat; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, lay in the cutlets, which well season with pepper and salt; set upon a moderate fire, turning them round occasionally until of lightish brown coloui’, then add a good spoonful of flour; mix well, and moisten with a quart of water, keep stirring until boiling, throw in twenty small onions, twenty small pieces of carrots, and the same of turnips (each about the size of walnuts), and a small bunch of parsley, with two bay-leaves; let simmer until the vegetables are done, skim well, take out the cutlets, which dress in crown upon a dish, place the vegetables in the centre, reduce tne sauce if required, which pour over and serve. Should it be convenient, it would be as well to pass the vegetables by putting about a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar into a stewpan ; place over the fire, and when melted add two ounces of butter and the vege¬ table, which keep tossing over the fire until covered with a kind of glaze, when put them into the stewpan with the cutlets ; it gives the liarrico quite a peculiar and good flavour. No. 172. Ragout of Mutton en currie. Peel and slice four large onions, which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a moderate fire, and when becoming lightly browned and pulpy lay in ten cutlets as in the last; move round occasionally until a little brown, when add a good spoonful of currie-powder and the half of one of flour; mix well, moisten with a pint of water, let simmer twenty minutes, or until the mutton is quite tender, finish with a little sugar, salt, and lemon juice, take out the cutlets, which dress in circle upon a dish, have ready some boiled rice (p. 51) very hot, which dress in pyramid in the centre; pass the sauce through a tammie, pour over the cutlets, and serve. No. 173. Mutton Currie. Peel and slice four large onions as in the last, fry the same, have ready two pounds of lean mutton cut into square pieces the size of walnuts, put into the stewpan with the fried onions; let remain ten minutes over the fire, stirring frequently, then add a tablespoon¬ ful of currie-powder and one of currie-paste ; mix well in, let remain over a slow fire until the mutton is tender, season witli a little salt and lemon-juice, pour out upon your dish, and serve with boiled rice separate. Lamb cutlets are dressed precisely as the mutton ; but when bread-crumbed and broiled they are very good served with peas or French beans, previously boiled and placed in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when quite hot stir in half a gill of cream, with which you have well mixed the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, pour out upon your dish, dress the cutlet over, and serve. No. 174. Pork Cutlets sautes. Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from the neck, of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a buttered KITCHEN AT HOME. 6S5 saute-pan, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when done lay them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the saute-pan, add a good tablespoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute, then add a tea¬ spoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve. This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork. No. 175. Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons. Cut six or eight cutlets from a middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not too brown) put two ounces of lard or butter into a saute or frying-pan, lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a dish ; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce over, and serve. No. 176. Pork Cutlets sauce demi Robert. Cut eight cutlets from a neck as before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped onions and parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to make them adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into bread-crumbs ; pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in a stewpan, into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well covering them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling a nice light brown colour ; when done dress them upon a dish ; have ready the following sauce : cut two large onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow colour, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and two spoonfuls of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim, and reduce until rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, one of colouring (No. 146); sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve. No. 177. Hashed Pork. Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked into thin small slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan; let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if approved of, or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent. The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered saute or frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and served with a puree of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas until tender (tied up in a cloth) ; when done put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter ; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over. No. 178. Pig’s Liver. Procure a nice pig’s liver with the caul, cut the 686 KITCHEN AT HOME. liver into good-sized slices of the shape of hearts, season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, sprinkle chopped eschalots and dried sage over, and fold each piece of liver in a piece of the caul; put some butter in a saute or frying-pan, lay them in, place over the tire, let fry rather quickly, not too dry; when done it will be a beautiful colour; take out and dress in circle upon your dish ; have ready the following sauce : put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one of catsup, and two of Harvey or Worces¬ tershire sauce; when boiling pour over the liver and serve. To plain fry it, cut in slices, season with pepper and salt, dip in flour, or eggs and bread-crumbs, fry a light brown in butter or lard, dress in a circle upon your dish, pour a gill of water into the pan, add a little Harvey sauce and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour; let boil a minute, add a little pepper and salt, sauce over, and serve. No. 179. Pigs’ Kidneys. Cut them open lengthwise, season well with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a skewer through to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard, place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute, and serve. Pigs’ kidneys may also be sauted as directed for ox kidneys (No. 159). No. 180. Black Puddings. Very few people take the trouble to do them at home, it being part of the business of the pork butcher to prepare such delicacies. I shall, however, here describe a very simple method for making them more palatable than those purchased in England, having so much spice in them as to entirely destroy their delicate flavour. Cut into rather small dice twenty large onions, having cut off the roots, being hard, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of lard or butter, let stew gently, cut three pounds of pig’s flead, free from skin, into small dice, have ready boiled six heads of endive chopped fine, and put into the stewpan with the onions, add two ounces of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, and four spoonfuls of parsley, chopped with a little thyme and bay-leaf; then add six pints of pig’s blood, mix well, leaving no lumps; if too thin add a few hand¬ fuls of bread-crumbs, or half a pound of well-boiled rice; have ready the small intestines, which well scrape and wash in salt and water, tie one end upon a tin funnel, having a piece a yard in length, closing it at the other end, fill with the above preparation by pressing through funnel; take off the funnel, tie up the end, and put them into a stewpan of nearly boiling water, let simmer twenty minutes, pricking them occasionally with a pin ; when no blood oozes out they are done; take up and place them upon a dish until cold; when ready to serve cut into pieces four inches in length, cut through the skin at different places, broil ten minutes over a sharp fire, serve plain, but very hot. These puddings are best made whilst the blood is still warm from the pig, which if killed at home, the other ingredients may be prepared previously. The endive may be omitted, but for a real epicure procure it if possible; they are served in France on the best of tables, and are quite worthy of that honour. Many kinds of black puddings are also made in Scotland, where KITCHEN AT HOME. 687 they more frequently use sheep’s blood, using the interior of the sheep, fat and all, in the same proportions as if made of a pig, adding oatmeal, omitting part of the onions, and using the larger entrails. It being usual in this country to introduce leeks, you must then omit the bread-crumbs and rice, or part of the onions. To prevent the blood curd¬ ling, it must be salted, by adding a handful of salt, and whisking well for ten minutes as soon as you obtain it from the pig. Rice well boiled in broth but not too much so is an excellent addition to black puddings (half a pound for the above quantity being quite sufficient), or grated bread; leeks also may be used instead of endive, or both may be omitted. I have mentioned these different articles, that if one cannot be pro¬ cured another might be used instead, fill also very even, mixing fat and all well together, carefully avoid letting any air get in, or they would burst in boiling. No. 181. Excellent Sausage Cakes. Chop some lean pork very fine, having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley ; when the whole is well chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs, then have ready a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate fire. No. 182. Pigs’ Feet. Procure six pig’s feet, nicely salted, which boil in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage-meat as in the last, and a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the pigs’ feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley, broil a nice colour and serve with a little plain gravy. MADE DISHES FROM POULTRY. No. 183. Blanquettes of Turkey. With the remains of a roast or boiled turkey you may make a very nice blanquette, cutting the meat into small thin slices, chop up the bones and put them into a stewpaD, with an onion, half a blade of mace, and a very little lean ham or bacon, just cover with water, boil twenty minutes, and with the stock make a white sauce as directed (No. 135), put the slices into a stewpan, just cover with a little of the sauce, add a little white pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, make all hot together, not, however, allowing it to boil, finish with three tablespoonfuls of cream, mixed with the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, pour out upon a dish, and serve with triangular scippets of fried or toasted bread round. When cucumbers are in season I frequently use one, cutting it in pieces two inches in length, which again split into three, peel, and take out all the seeds, put them into a stewpan, with a few chopped onions, a little butter, and sugar, and stew gently over a slow fire until tender, five minutes before serving add them to the blanquette, they being a great improvement. C88 KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 184. Boudins ofTurkki. Cutup all the flesh remaining upon atur- key into small dice, if about a pound and a half, put a teaspoonful of chop¬ ped onions into a stewpan, with a piece of butter of the size of two walnuts, pass a few seconds over the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and the mince, which moisten with a pint of stock made from the bones as in the last, simmer some time, keeping it moved, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, finish with the yolks of three eggs, which stir in quickly over the fire, not allowing it to boil afterwards, pour out upon a dish until cold ; just before ready to serve, divide it into equal parts, which roll out each to about the size of small eggs, shaping them to fancy, egg and bread-crumb twice over, fry in very hot lard or dripping of a light brown colour, and serve. A little ham or tongue (should you have any left) cut small, and mixed with the mince would be a great improvement. No. 185. Turban of Croquettes. Croquettes are made precisely as the last, but not more than half the size, when done, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready some of the blanquette of turkey, which serve in the centre. No. 186. Minced and Grilled Turkey. Detach the leg, wing, or take off the best part of the turkey remaining, which season well with pepper and salt, and broil over a good fire, have ready prepared a mince from the remaining flesh of the turkey, made as directed for the boudins, but omitting the yolks of eggs ; when quite hot and well seasoned pour into your dish, and dress the broiled piece upon it. No. 187. Devilled Turkey. Cut up the remains of your turkey into good-sized pieces or joints if sufficient, cut incisions crosswise upon each piece, and well rub them with cayenne pepper, broil quickly over a sharp fire, dress them in your dish, and have ready the following sauce: put a table¬ spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a wineglassful of chili vinegar, reduce to half, add half a pint of thin melted butter, two table¬ spoonfuls of catsup, and two of Worcestershire sauce, boil about a quarter of an hour, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, pour over and serve. Many persons like the above best dry, so it would be as well to serve the sauce separate in a boat, or a little plain gravy only underneath. The remains of poulardes, capons, or fowls may be dressed precisely as directed for the turkey. No. 188. Goose Hashed. The remains of agoose is fit only for hashing, or devilling, for which proceed as last directed ; when for hashing put a spoon¬ ful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass over the fire until becoming rather brown, when add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, cut up the remains of a goose into moderate-sized pieces, season with pepper and salt, add about a pint of stock or water, let simmer ten minutes, when pour out upon a dish and serve. For a variation, a little sage and a couple of apples sliced and cooked in the sauce is very good. No. 189. Stewed Duck and Peas. Procure a duck trussed with the legs turned inside, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, let remain over a fire, stirring occa¬ sionally until lightly browned, when add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of broth or water, stir round gently until boiling, when skim. KITCHEN AT HOME. (389 and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then add a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish (taking away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck and serve. No. 190. Duckling with Turnips is a very favorite dish amongst the middle classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but instead of peas use about forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces, having previously fried them of a light yellow colour in a little butter or lard, and drained them upon a sieve, dress the duck upon a dish as before, season the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce until rather thickish, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this description ; the turnips must not, how¬ ever, be in puree ; sauce over and serve. The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be in season, a pint previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving. The sage and apple must in all cases be omitted. No. 191. Fricassee of Fowl or Chicken. Cut a fowl or chicken into eight pieces, that is, the two wings and legs, dividing the back and breast into two pieces each, wash well, put them into a stewpan and cover with water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a good bunch of parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let boil twenty minutes, pass the stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the pieces of fowl, trim well, then in another stewpan put two ounces of butter, with which mix a good spoonful of flour, moisten with the stock, and put in the pieces of fowl, stir occasionally until boiling, skim well, add twenty button onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, stir in quickly over the fire, but do not let boil, take out the pieces, dress in pyramid upon your dish, sauce over and serve. No. 192. Fricassee of Fowl with Mushrooms. Proceed as in the last, but adding twenty mushrooms, (peeled, if very black) not too large, about ten minutes before adding the cream and yolks of eggs. No. 193. Currie of Fowl, Oriental Fashion. Peel and cut two large onions into thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, fry them over a slow fire until lightly browned and quite pulpy, then add a good tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, mix well, add half a pint of broth or water, let boil, keeping it stirred, then have a fowl cut into eight pieces, which put in the stewpan, cover well with the currie, add half a pint of cream, let simmer gently three quarters of an hour over a slow fire, stirring occasionally, take out the pieces, dress pyramidically upon a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with rice plain boiled as directed (page 51) on a separate dish. Nor-. 194. Broiled Fowl. Procure a fowl trussed as for boiling, cut out the back-bone and press quite flat, season well with pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, place in a saute-pan, fry upon both sides, take out, egg 44 690 KITCHEN AT HOME. over with a paste brush, dip into bread-crumbs, place upon the gridiron over a moderate fire, and broil a very light brown colour, glaze over, if any, and serve with a little plain gravy, or mushroom sauce, made by putting half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, with about twenty button mushrooms, well washed, let simmer ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Harvey sauce, finish with a pat of butter, pour the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over and serve. I very frequently also serve it at home with a sauce a la tartare made as directed page 19. No. 195. Fowl, Sauted in Oil. Cut a fowl in pieces as described for the fricassee, and put them into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of oil, place over the fire, and when of a light brown colour add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and moisten with a pint of broth or water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping well skimmed, add a raw truffle cut in slices, or a few mushrooms, season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, take out the pieces of fowl, which dress pyramidi- cally upon your dish, reduce the sauce over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when pour over and serve. No. 196, Fricassee of Rabbits. Cut two nice young rabbits into very neat joints, or the legs only may be used, and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for half an hour, take out and put them into a stewpan with a large onion cut into slices, two cloves, a blade of mace, a little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon cut in dice ; just cover with water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, pass the stock through a sieve, and proceed precisely as for the fricassee of fowl, page 689. No. 197. Gibelotte of Rabbits. Cut two young rabbits into joints as in the last, cut also half a pound of streaked bacon into dice, fry the bacon in butter in a stewpan, then put in the pieces of rabbits ; when slightly browned add a good spoonful of flour, mix well, and moisten with rather more than a pint of water, season with a little salt and pepper, when begin¬ ning to boil skim well, add fifty button onions, and a few button mushrooms, if any, let simmer a quarter of an hour, take out the pieces of rabbit, which dress in pyramid upon a dish; let the sauce boil, keeping it stirred, until the onions are quite tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add a little colouring, pour over the rabbit and serve. No. 198. Currie of Rabbit. Cut four middling-sized onions and two apples in slices, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally, until the onions are slightly browned and quite pulpy, when add two tablespoonfuls of currie-powder and one of currie-paste ; mix well and moisten with half a pint of stock or water, let boil; have ready a couple of young rabbits cut into joints, and fried in butter in a saute or frying-pan of a nice brown colour, put into the currie sauce, season with a little salt and juice of lemon, let stew very gently over a very slow fire, stirring occasionally, until the rabbit is quite tender, when dress upon your dish, and serve with rice, plain boiled, separate. The legs only of the rabbits may be dressed in either of the foregoing ways, should the fillets be required for other purposes. KITCHEN AT HOME. 691 No. 199. Rabbit Pies. Cut two or three rabbits up in joints, and a pound of streaked bacon in slices ; butter a pie-dish, lay some of the slices of bacon upon the bottom, dip the pieces of rabbits into flour, place a layer of them over the bacon, season well with pepper and salt, then add another layer of bacon, then rabbit, again seasoning, proceeding thus, building them in a dome above the edge of the dish ; have ready a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page 480), with which cover them, ornamenting the top with leaves, egg over lightly, and bake about an hour and a half in a mo¬ derate oven, put half a pint of good gravy in with a funnel, and serve. Rabbits plain boiled and served with onion sauce are also very excellent, make the sauce thus : peel and cut six large onions into very small dice, put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pass five minutes over the fire, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of flour, mix well, moisten with a pint and a half of milk, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, keep stirring over the fire until the onions are quite tender, and it becomes a rather thickish sauce, when serve over the rabbit. The remains of rabbits may be warmed and served with the above sauce, made into blanquettes, or minced as directed for turkeys or fowls. No. 200. Pigeon Pie. Procure four pigeons, but not trussed, and cut off the feet ; have a nice tender rump-steak, well seasoned, which dip in flour and lay at the bottom of a buttered pie-dish ; place the pigeon over, elevating their tails to meet in the centre, season well with pepper and salt, place a piece of fat bacon over the breast of each bird, sprinkle a few chopped escha¬ lots over, have six eggs boiled, the yolks of which place in the dish, pour in half a pint of water, and cover the pie with a pound of half pulf paste made as directed (page 480), ornamenting the top with leaves of -paste, sticking the pigeons’ feet in the centre, and brushing eggs lightly over the top ; bake about an hour and a half in a moderate oven. Lamb or veal may be used instead of the beef at the bottom, if preferred, and the whole of the eggs, each cut in four lengthwise, instead of the yolks only. No. 201. Pigeons in Compote. Put half a pound of lean bacon, cut into large dice, in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, pass a few mi¬ nutes over the fire, then have three pigeons trussed with their legs turned in¬ side, place them in the stewpan with the bacon, breasts downwards, let re¬ main until becoming of a light brown colour, moving them round occa¬ sionally ; add a tablespoonful of flour, move round until becoming a little browned, moisten with a pint, or a little more, water, mix well, add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, thirty button onions, a little pepper and salt, let simmer three quarters of an hour, skimming well, dress the pigeons upon a dish, with the bacon and onions round, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, pour over and serve. No. 202. Stewed Pigeons with Peas. Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding nearly a quart of very fresh peas with the onions and parsley, omitting the bay-leaf; dress the pigeons upon a dish, pom* the peas and sauce over when ready to serve. GAME.—No. .203. Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse, Black Game, Woodcocks, etc., by the greater part of the population, are preferred plain roasted, which is, in my opinion, the best ; but by way of change, and for C92 KITCHEN AT HOME. tlie method of dressing the remains of any description of birds, I have given the few following simple receipts : No. 204. Small Pheasants, the Miller’s Fashion. Roast a phea¬ sant as directed (page 403), previously dipping it in flour, and occasionally shaking flour over whilst roasting, thus it will he very crisp and keep nearly white; put the crumb of two French rolls in a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt; let boil, take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of buttered toast upon your dish, pour the sauce over, dress the pheasant upon the top, and serve; a little gravy may also be served separate in a boat. No. 205. Pheasant with Cabbage. Procure a nice white-heart winter cabbage, which cut in quarters, and blanch five minutes in boiling water, drain quite dry, cut off part of the stalk, season well with salt, place it in a stewpan with half a pound of streaked bacon and a pint of broth, and stew gently for about half an hour ; then have a pheasant about three parts roasted, thrust it into the cabbage whilst hot, and let the whole stew gently together half an hour longer; take out the pheasant and cabbage, squeezing it to the sides of the stewpan to extract the stock, dress the cabbage in pyramid upon your dish, with the pheasant upon the top, dress the bacon, cut in slices, around, skim the stock well, let reduce to half, pour round and serve. No. 206. Hashed Pheasant. From the remains of a pheasant, previ¬ ously served, make a hash in the following manner : cut it up into smallish pieces and put them into a stewpan, with a little flour, half a glass of port wine, a little pepper, salt, and a bay-leaf, and sufficient broth (or water with a piece of glaze in it) to moisten it; let simmer very gently five minutes, take out the pieces, dress them upon your dish, pass the sauce through a hair sieve over, and serve. No. 20/. A Plain Salmi of Pheasants. Cut off and trim well the best pieces remaining of pheasants, previously served, and put them into a stew¬ pan ; then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings (broken up small), with an onion in slices, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, four peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil a few minutes ; then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and moisten by degrees with a pint of broth (or water with a piece of glaze), boil about ten minutes, keeping it stirred; when thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, pass through a tammie or fine sieve into the other stew¬ pan over the pieces of pheasants, warm altogether gently, not allowing it to boil, colour a little brown with half a spoonful of colouring (page 673), take out the pieces, dress in pyramid, sauce over, and serve with scippets of fried or toasted bread, cut in the shape of hearts, round. The remains of pheasants may he minced and served with eggs boiled five minutes, and the shells taken off, or made into boudins or croquettes as di¬ rected for turkey (page 687), as may any other description of game. No. 208. Grouse, Scotch Fashion. Plain roast the grouse, dress them upon toast on your dish, and serve with plain melted butter poured over them; they may also be dressed in any of the ways directed for phea¬ sants, with the exception of being stewed with the cabbage; black game is dressed precisely the same as the grouse. KITCHEN AT HOME. 693 No. 209. Partridges a la Jardiniere. Have a plain round tin cutter, with which cut about forty pieces of carrot and turnip, each about the thick¬ ness ot a quill, and half an inch in length, put them into a stewpan with twenty button onions, two ounces of butter, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar ; pass over a sharp fire until the vegetables become covered with a thin- nish glaze, when add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of stock or gravy, let simmer until the vegetables are tender, keeping it well skimmed. Roast two partridges rather underdone, which put into the sauce twenty miuutes before serving, let simmer very gently, skim off all the fat, dress the birds upon a dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over, and serve. No. 210. Partridges with Cabbage. Proceed exactly as described for the pheasant, but using two birds instead of one; if convenient it would be a great improvement to lard the breasts of the birds with fat bacon. No. 211. Partridges Sauted with Mushrooms. Divide two par¬ tridges each into halves, beat them a little flattish, put two or three tablespoon¬ fuls of salad-oil into a flat stewpan, lay in the partridges, the inner side down¬ wards, first seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, place over a moderate fire, put a cover upon the stewpan, and let remain until of a light brown colour; remove the lid, turn the partridges over, and let remain until coloured the other side; then pour off a little of the oil, add a table¬ spoonful of flour, turn round until well mixed, add a good glassful of sherry, half a pint of stock or water, and twenty small button mushrooms ; let sim¬ mer until the partridges are tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them, having kept it well skimmed, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, if required, lay the partridges upon a dish, sauce over, and serve. The remains of partridges may be hashed or served in a plain salmi, pre¬ cisely as directed for pheasants. No. 212. Woodcocks, Downshire Fashion. Plain roast the wood¬ cocks as directed (page 407), catching their trails upon toast, upon which, when done, dress the birds upon a dish ; pour a thick melted butter (with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg and a little cream) over, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander a light brown colour, and serve'-with a little gravy round. No. 213. Woodcocks a la Chasseur. Roast two woodcocks rather underdone, catching the interior upon a large-piece of toast; when done cut each one in four, and place in a stewpan, with the remainder of the interior, chopped small, add a little pepper and salt, a glass of sherry, a little chopped eschalots, parsley, the juice of half a lemon, and half a gill of broth ; let sim¬ mer a few minutes, dish rather high upon the toast, sauce over, and serve. No. 214. Hashed Woodcocks. Should you have any remaining from a previous dinner, cut each one in four, or more pieces, chop all that remains in the interior, wdiich mix with a small piece of butter, a spoonful of bread¬ crumbs, and a little chopped parsley, make six croutons in the shape of hearts from a piece of toasted bread, spread the above preparation upon each, and place a short time in the oven; hash the pieces as directed for the phea¬ sant, dress in pyramid on a dish, with the croutons round, sauce over and serve. 694 KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 215. Snipes a la Minute. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts downwards, add a spoonful of chopped onions, one ditto of parsley, a littled grated nutmeg, half a tea¬ spoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; set over a brisk fire seven or ten minutes (according to the size of the birds), stirring occasionally, then add the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry or bucellas wine, and a spoonful of finely-grated crust of bread ; let the whole simmer a few minutes, dress the birds upon a dish, mix the sauce well, pour over and serve. No. 216. Plovers with English raw Truffles. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, over which place four plovers, breasts down¬ wards, and eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut into thickish slices ; add also two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a salt- spoonful of pepper; pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally, add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with a gill of broth and a glass of white wine, let simmer ten minutes longer, skim well, dress the birds upon a dish, reduce the sauce, add a little sugar and the juice of a lemon, sauce over, and serve. No. 217. Wild Duck. Truss as directed (p. 688), rub all over with the liver, making it quite red, and roast twenty minutes before a good fire, then with a sharp knife cut eight incisions down the breast; you have put an ounce of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, the rind of an orange, free from pith, cut in strips, blanched in boiling water and well drained upon a sieve, and the juice of a lemon; warm over the fire, and when melted, but not oily, pour over the duck and serve. No. 218. Hashed Wild Duck. Cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of flour, depending upon the quantity; mix well, moisten with a glass or two of wine, and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce, season well, add a little Harvey sauce, mushroom catsup, a little sugar and cayenne pepper; let simmer but not boil, take out the pieces, which dress upon toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little colouring may be added if approved of. No. 219. Widgeons. Truss as for wild ducks, rub over with some of their livers, chop up the remainder, which mux with a few bread-crumbs, a little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, and an egg, with which stuff the interior; roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a very sharp fire, dress upon toast on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; boil a few minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter, sauce over and serve. Widgeons are hashed in the same manner as described for wild duck. No. 220. Teal, a new Method. Procure four, draw them, then put half a pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper, grated nutmeg, parsley, a spooonful of grated crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and the liver of the teal; mix well together, and with it fill the interior of the teal; cover them with slices of lemon, fold in thin slices of bacon, then in paper, and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire; take off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast, letting the butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot. KITCHEN AT HOME. 695 No. 221. Teal a la Sans Pacon. Roast four teal quite plain, prepare a quarter of a pound of butter as above, with the omission of the livers, which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring quickly, until forming a kind of sauce; add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over, and serve. The remains of teal also make an excellent hash. No. 222. Larks a la Minute. Proceed as directed for snipes a la minute, previously stuffing them with their livers, as directed for widgeons, adding a few mushrooms at the commencement, and not letting them stew too quickly, or the bottom would become brown and give a bad flavour to the sauce; ten minutes is quite sufficient to stew them. No. 223. Lark Pie. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks previously rolled in flour, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalot ; lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill of broth, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff paste (p. 480) ; bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite hot. No. 224. Jugged Hare. Put nearly half a pound of butter into a good- sized stewpan with ten ounces of flour, making rather a thinnish roux by continually turning over a slow fire until becoming of a yellowish tinge, then add a pound of good streaked bacon, previously cut into good-sized square pieces ; keep stirring a few minutes longer over the fire ; you have previously cut the hare into nice pieces, throw them into the stewpan, and stir over the fire until becoming firm, when moisten with four glasses of port wine, and sufficient water to cover them ; when beginning to boil skim well, season in proportion to the size of your hare, let simmer, add two bay-leaves, four cloves, and when about half done forty button onions, or ten large ones cut into slices ; let simmer until the whole is well done, the sauce requiring to be rather thick ; dress the pieces as high as possible upon your dish, sauce over, and serve. The remains are excellent either cold or warmed up again in a stewpan. If cheap and in season, a few small new potatoes are excellent stewed with it. No. 225. Another and more simple Method. Put a quarter of a pound of butter with a pound of bacon cut into dice, and the hare, cut into pieces, in a stewpan, set upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are be¬ coming firm, when add six ounces of flour, mix well, and moisten with suf¬ ficient water to cover it, add two glasses of any kind of wine and one of vinegar, season as above, let simmer until tender, keeping well skimmed; when done, and the sauce becoming quite thick, dress upon your dish, and serve as before. meat pies and puddings. No. 226. Rump Steak Pie. Procure two pounds of rump-steak, which cut into thinnish slices, season well with pepper and salt, dip each piece into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in form of a dome; add a ; wineglassful of water, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff j paste (page 480), egg over with a paste brush, and bake rather better than I an hour in a moderate oven; serve either hot or cold. 696 KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 227. Mutton Pie. Procure the chumps from three loins of mutton, which cut into moderate slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of your dish, season well with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalot, over which put a layer of thin slices of raw potatoes, then the meat, and seasoning again, proceeding thus, finishing in a dome; add a wineglassful of water, cover with paste, and bake as in the last. No. 228. Lamb Pie. Cut a small loin of lamb into thin chops, which lightly season, lay them in your dish with a few slices of new potatoes, building them up in the form of a dome ; moisten with water, cover with paste, and bake as before. The proper way to cover these pies is to wet the edge of the dish, round which put a band of common paste, pressing it lightly on, wetting the top, and joining the paste with which the pie is covered to it. Pies, as I have previously observed, may also be made from the remains of any joints, first hashing the meat from them, which cut into large slices and well season; when quite cold fill your pie-dish, building it in a dome two inches above the rim of your dish; place a bay-leaf over, cover with paste, not, however, too thickly, and bake in a hot oven. Any kind of meat, game, or poultry remaining may be hashed and con¬ verted into a pie as above without much trouble, thus making a very excellent dish to serve to table. Or the remains of any description of meats may be thus dressed : lay a few slices of streaked uncooked bacon at the bottom of a pie-dish, over which put layers of the meat, seasoning well be¬ tween, leaving a space between the meat and the dish all round, and not building it above the edge of the dish; then have some potatoes prepared as follows : put about a quarter of a pound of potatoes well mashed into a basin, to which add three eggs, a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and half a pint of milk; mix well, strain through a colander, pour over the meat in the dish, bake half an hour in a w r arm oven, and serve very hot. No. 229. Beef Steak Pudding. At home 1 can frequently make a very excellent dinner from a meat pudding, made as follows : Put one pound of flour upon a pastry slab, in the centre of which form a well, in which put half a pound of beef or mutton suet, whichever is most convenient, add a teaspoonful of salt, and mix the w'hole with water into a stiffisli paste, adding more flour to detach the paste from the slab, and make it dry to the touch ; then slightly butter the interior of a round-bottomed basin, of the size you may require, w r liich line with two thirds of the paste, rolled to the thickness of half an inch; you have previously cut two pounds of rump-steak into slices, the thickness of two five-shilling pieces, and as large as the palm of your hand, with a certain quantity of fat attached, or if no fat, add a few pieces separately, dip each piece in flour, and cover the bottom of your basin, over wdiich sprinkle some pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalots (wdiich you have previously mixed upon a plate in the follow¬ ing proportions: two teaspoonfuls of salt, half ditto of black pepper, tw o of chopped parsley, and one or tw 7 o of chopped onions or eschalots), then more meat, and seasoning alternately until the pudding is filled, add a wineglassful or two of water, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, w r et the edges of the paste, the re¬ mainder of which roll to the same thickness, wdth wdiich form a lid, closing it carefully at the edges ; have ready boiling in a stewpan upon the fire a KITCHEN AT HOME. 697 gallon of water, in which stand your pudding, having previously well wrapped it up in a cloth, and let boil continually for three hours, now and then add¬ ing a little more water to keep up the quantity ; when done, untie the cloth, from which take the basin, pass your knife carefully round between the pudding and the basin, and turn over upon a dish lifting the basin carefully, and you will have an excellent pudding, not one drop of gravy escaping until you have dug in your spoon, which will cause it to eat much more delicate than by breaking the pudding on purpose to fill the dish with gravy when going to table, particularly if soup and fish are served before, and the pud¬ ding is kept half an hour waiting, the top pieces would then eat very dry and indigestible, being deprived of their succidence. At home I never carve such a pudding with a spoon, but lightly cut the crust with a knife, cutting along the top instead of down, and laying a piece of crust upon each plate, taking the meat and gravy from the centre with a spoon, thus leaving the bottom until the last, which, if any remains, is excellent cold.* The above may also be either steamed or baked, in which case it will not require to be tied in a cloth; to steam it, place a quart of water in a mid¬ dling-sized stewpan, and when boiling stand in your pudding, cover the stew- pan down close, and draw it to the corner of the fire, replenishing occa¬ sionally with more water; the pudding will require the same time cooking, and is served as before. If baked, the time required in cooking would of course greatly depend upon the heat of your oven, but it would require about two hours baking in a moderate oven, which is the best adapted. The pudding, when baked, may be kept entirely to be eaten cold. Should the onion or bay-leaf be objection¬ able to some, "they may of course be omitted; observe, that by shaking the pudding gently, previous to turning it out upon your dish, you will mix the gravy with the flour upon the meat, thus forming, when the pudding is cut, a thinnish sauce, without having a greasy appearance. This very long and minute receipt will probably surprise many, but by thus entering into it, I have given at least ten receipts in one, as I make all other savoury puddings precisely the same ; the following sorts most frequently. I sometimes introduce one or two mutton kidneys in a steak pudding, which, although a very old custom, is nevertheless a very good one. Mutton pud¬ ding is also very excellent, especially if made from the meat cut from the chumps of the loins, and made similar to the beef-steak puddings, not, how¬ ever, requiring quite so long a time to boil. Short mutton cutlets, cut with¬ out showing the bones, with slices of raw potatoes between, also make very excellent puddings, as also do cutlets of lamb, but in either case requiring an hour less time to cook. I have also frequently made very good puddings from veal, rabbits, poultry, and game, all of which are very acceptable for a change. Venison pudding is also very beautiful. I consider it a pity so few people make any experiments in cookery, which, like other arts, is amost in¬ exhaustible. Some people who have partaken of some of these puddings, previous to their being sent to table, have said they were sure they would not be approved of; but to my great satisfaction they have been totally deceived. For the veal pudding I cut slices (from any part of the leg) about the same * It would be very easy to ascertain when done, by running a packing-needle or sharp-pointed knife through, if tender it is done; this remark also applies to any de¬ scription of meat pies. 698 KITCHEN AT HOME. size as the beef for steak puddings, and put them into a saute-pan, over the bottom of which I have rubbed an ounce of butter, seasoning them with a little pepper and salt, adding a little thyme, and a couple of bay-leaves ; about half cook, and leave them in the pan until quite cold, then dip each piece in flour, lay them in the basin with a few slices of streaked bacon, finish the pudding, and boil it two hours. For young rabbits and fowls I proceed the same, and cook the pudding the same time ; but to the two last I frequently add a spoon¬ ful of currie-powder to make it palatable. For venison, I previously stew it well, except I have left the remainder of a haunch, which I convert into a hash, making the pudding of it when quite cold; this pudding will require very little more than an hour boiling. I frequently also make puddings of various kinds of fish, of which one made from the fillets of mackarel is very excellent, the fillets cut into good slices, rather highly seasoned, and laid lightly in the pudding ; it will require an hour and a half boiling, and must be eaten very hot to be well appre¬ ciated. Eels also make a good pudding, by cutting them into pieces an inch and a half in length slantwise, and blanching them ten minutes in boiling water, to extract the oil, previous to putting them in your pudding, before making which dip each piece of eel in flour. SECOND COURSE, KITCHEN AT HOME. For the roasts, second course, in my Kitchen at Home, I must refer my readers to that series in the other department of this work, as it is impos¬ sible to explain them more simply; so also for the various methods of dress¬ ing vegetables (there so fully explained), from the most expensive to the most simple; and, to avoid repetition, pas3 over those two series in the second course, and commence a short series of simplified second-course dishes, with a few plain salads. No. 230. Salad of Cold Meat. This salad in France is very much in vogue, and very frequently made with the remains of meat from the pot-au- feu, but any meat, either roasted, boiled, or stewed, may be used. Cut your meat in slices (with a little of the fat) about the size of half-a- crown, place them upon a dish, with three eschalots chopped very finely, a spoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, and a little salt and pepper, pour six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil and two of vinegar over, toss well together without breaking the meat, and serve either in a salad-bowl or upon another dish; the above proportion is for a pound of meat. Another method is to have as many slices of cold potatoes as of meat, cut the same size, and after well seasoning the whole, dress them alternately round the dish, one resting upon the other; mix two spoonfuls of oil with one of vinegar, which pour over and serve. Spring onions, slices of beet¬ root, and radishes, may also be introduced. The remains of poultry may also be dressed in a similar manner. No. 231. Lobster Salad. Break up a lobster, obtaining as much of the flesh as possible, which cut into slices, have likewise two hard-boiled eggs also in slices, two anchovies filleted, and two cabbage lettuces, or any other salad cut up small ; mix the whole well together with a fork in a basin, season with half a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one of KITCHEN AT HOME. 699 chopped tarragon and chervil, a little pepper and salt, six spoonfuls of salad- oil, and two of vinegar; when well mixed turn the whole into a salad-bowl and serve. Crab may be dressed precisely the same. No. 232. Fish Salads are also very good, and may be made with the re¬ mains of John Doree, turbot, salmon, or brill; fillets of soles sauted in butter when cold also make excellent salads. Cut the fish into rather thin slices, have also two young cos lettuces, which separate into leaves and cut lengthwise, add a few leaves of tarragon, a little chervil, season with a little pepper and salt, six or eight spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar, cr according to taste; mix well together, turn into a salad-bowl and serve. The above salads are excellent for dinner upon a hot summer’s day. No. 233. Potato Salad. Peel and cut ten middling-sized cold potatoes into slices, and put them into a salad-bowl, season with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto of chopped escha¬ lots, the same of chopped parsley, six spoonfuls of oil, and two of vinegar ; toss all well together without breaking the potatoes, and serve. Cold haricot beans, French beans, and lentils, are also excellent, dressed in the above method. No. 234. Plain Salad a la Francaise. Throughout France, but in France only, this simple style of dressing a salad is fully appreciated, the sight of which refreshes the eyes and revives the appetite; I never heard (in France) any one say, after a copious dinner, this is too much and useless, but, on the contrary, every one reserves, if not an appetite, at least the shade of one for the approaching salad, the simplicity of its seasoning and its trifling expense principally causing it to be thus popular and so freely par¬ taken of. 1 have never given a small party at home but my guests have been at all times anxious to partake of my French salad, which I simply make as follows: I procure a quantity of salad of any description the most in season (all descriptions of salad being dressed in the same manner, one receipt will do for the whole), but my favorite salad being endive, that is the one I shall here describe. Take four or five heads of very white endive, detach all the green leaves, and wash each head well in a pail of cold water, but not leaving them in the water, or they would eat quite bitter, which, for my own part, I do not much object to, but many persons do ; when clean cut each head in halves down the centre, cut off the roots, which throw away, lay the endive in the centre of a clean cloth, which take by the four corners and shake until the salad is per¬ fectly dry ; then put it into a convenient-sized salad-bowl, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of white pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six of salad-oil, and one of tarragon and chervil chopped very fine, then stir up lightly with a spoon and fork, and when well mixed let each guest help themselves. Another method of dressing an endive salad, which, in the opinion of the generality of my guests, is the most preferable in point of flavour, is to rub the salad-bowl with a piece of fresh peeled garlic, then lay in the salad ; have three or four pieces of crust of bread, about the size of shillings, let each be well rubbed with the garlic, season and stir well together as before. Should any ladies, however, be going to partake of it, the bowl and crusts 700 KITCHEN AT HOME. must not be so much rubbed, as too strong a flavour might be objectionable; this last receipt is only applicable to endive, every other salad, such as cos or cabbage lettuce, is plainly dressed as in the first receipt, adding more or less seasoning, or tarragon and chervil; a dozen of green spring onions is also an improvement to a salad. To make a profitable family salad, a certain quantity of cold roast, stewed, or boiled meat (which you might have remaining) or poultry might be in¬ troduced in either of the above salads, having previously cut it into slices ; you may also introduce a couple of hard-boiled eggs, cut in rings, with slices of beet-i’oot, cucumbers, ripe tomatas, or even cold potatoes, but then a little more vinegar must be added; from such a salad a small family may in the summer months make an excellent meal. No. 235. Jelly of various kinds of Fruits. Having but little time to make very bright jellies at home, I usually simply make them as dii’ected in the few following receipts—they are excellent and full of flavour : when in a hurry I generally use isinglass, but at other times boil three calf’s feet, or two cow heels, in a gallon of water, and when well done pass the liquor through a sieve into a basin, and clarify the next day, by taking off every particle of fat, and putting it into a stewpan ; place upon the fire, and when boiling add a pint of water with which you have whipped the whites of six eggs, mixing the juice of four lemons and two ounces of lump sugar ; keep whisking over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when take from the fire, place the cover upon the stewpan, with a little live charcoal, or a few live cinders upon the top, let stand twenty minutes, when pour it through a jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through in again, until running quite clear, when all has passed through, pour it into a stewpan, and reduce it over a sharp fire to about a quart, when put it by for use, instead of isinglass, where indicated. No. 236. Orange Jelly. The bountiful supply and cheapness of this delicious fruit will enable almost any person to partake of this excellent entremet. Procure ten middling-sized oranges and tw T o lemons, take the rind from three of the oranges and one of the lemons, as thinly as possible, which put into a basin, put a sieve over, through which squeeze the juice of the oranges and lemons, then put half a pound of sugar in a stewpan over the fire with a pint of water, and let boil until becoming a very thick syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan for a few mo¬ ments, when again place it over the fire ; as soon as boiling commences skim well, and add two glasses of water by degrees, which will assist its clarifica¬ tion, let boil another minute, when add an ounce and a quarter of isinglass, dissolved as directed (page 592), pass the whole through a jelly bag or fine cloth, and add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint; when fill a mould, which place in two or three pounds of ice until set quite firm and ready to serve, when dip the mould in hot*water to the rim, wipe the exterior, turn over upon your dish, lifting the mould straight, but gently off from the jelly. As the sizes of the oranges very much fluctuate, and some produce more juice than others, it would be better to try a little jelly in a spoon upon ice, to ascertain if of the proper strength, before filling your mould. If handy, the same quantity or a little more of reduced calf’s foot jelly as in the last may be used instead of isinglass. KITCHEN AT HOME. 701 No. 237. Whipped Orange Jelly. This makes a very pleasing varia¬ tion without incurring any additional expense, being merely when the jelly is passed to put it in a bowl, which place upon ice, and commence whipping the jelly until upon the point of setting, when pour it quickly into your mould, which place upon ice until ready to serve, when dip the mould into warm water and turn the jelly out. Orange jelly as directed in either of the two last may also be served in the skins of the oranges by proceeding as directed (page 522), and serving them upon a napkin with laurel leaves between, in the same manner as oranges for a dessert. The remainder of an orange jelly may be melted again, poured into glass custard cups, set upon ice, and served upon another occasion, if sufficient; the remains of a clear one might be whipped and poured again into the mould. No. 238. Lemon Jelly. Proceed precisely the same as directed for orange, but omitting the oranges, and using the juice of eight and the rind of two lemons; this jelly requires to be kept quite white, and may be served either turned out of a mould, or in glasses, but not in the skin of the fruit, it being too bitter ; half a pint of bucellas wine may be added to the above. No. 239. Currant and Raspberry Jelly. Procure two pounds of fresh currants and a good handful of raspberries, which place in a clean cloth over a basin, fold the cloth up and press the juice through it with your hands, then add two or three wineglassfuls of cold water, and pass the whole through a jelly bag, make a thick syrup from three quarters of a pound of sugar, to which add two ounces of dissolved isinglass (or sufficient calf’s foot jelly), mix the whole well together ; when the syrup is a little cool, taste if palatable, place a little upon some ice, and if strong enough fill your mould, which place in ice until quite set and ready to serve, when turn it out as before directed. No. 240. Strawberry Jelly. Put a pint of water inastewpan to boil, have ready picked a basket of fresh strawberries, and when the water is boil¬ ing throw them in, let simmer a minute, add the juice of a lemon, place the lid upon the stewpan, and stand by until half cold, when run the jelly through a napkin or jelly bag, make a syrup and add the isinglass as above, but using less sugar, finish precisely as in the last. Either of the two last jellies are fora change also very excellent whipped as directed for the orange jelly. It is almost needless to mention that when calf’s foot jelly is used not quite so much sugar will be required as if only the isinglass. JELLIES OF LIQUORS AND SPIRITS. No. 241. Maresquino Jelly. Have, if any, a quart of rather firm calf’s foot jelly, to which add when melted six liquor-glassfuls of maresquino, and two of brandy, pour in.your mould, which set upon ice until firm and ready for use, when turn out of your mould as before and serve. If no calf’s foot jelly, isinglass must be used instead, by dissolving an ounce and a half of isinglass, and adding it to a syrup made with the juice of two lemons, half a pound of sugar, and a pint of water, pass through a napkin or jelly bag, add two wineglassfuls more water, with the maresquino and brandy, when partly cold place in your mould, and serve as before. 702 KITCHEN AT HOME. Jelly made in either of the above methods may be flavoured with any other liquors (the quantity used depending principally upon taste), as also with rum, brandy, or whiskey, which last are more fit for a party of gentlemen. No. 242. Syrup of Almond Iced, a la Varsovienne, a substi¬ tute for Blancmange. Almost every ordinary cook is acquainted with the old method of making a blancmange, and the tediousness of its fabrication ; so at home I make the following substitute : blanch and pound in a mortar four ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to a thickish syrup, put in the almonds, let infuse twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie, add sufficient dissolved isinglass or calf’s foot jelly to set it, with a glass of brandy or rum, place the above pre¬ paration in a bowl upon some ice, keeping it stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint of cream previously well whipped, and pour it into a mould, let remain upon ice until ready to serve, when dip into luke¬ warm water and turn out upon your dish. The flavour of any kind of fruit may be used instead. No. 243. Pineapple Cream is what I now frequently make in the sum¬ mer months, using the West Indian pineapples, which may be procured remarkably cheap. Peel a small one and put the rind into a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, and two wineglassfuls of water ; let boil until reduced to a very thick syrup, when pass it through a sieve into a basin, cut the remainder of the pine into very small strips, which put into the basin with the syrup, have ready boiling half a pint of milk, in which you have dissolved rather more than an ounce of isinglass, in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, over which pour the milk, mix well, and stir over the fire until it becomes a little thickish, but not boiling, when pass it through a sieve over the syrup, mix well together, place in a bowl upon some ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of cream, previously whipped, stir well in, fill your mould, which leave upon the ice until ready to serve, when turn it out as in the last. No. 244. Prussian Cream. Put an ounce and a half of isinglass, pre¬ viously dissolved, into a bowl, melt it, and add six glasses of any liquor, and two of brandy, with six ounces of powdered sugar, let well dissolve, place the bowl upon some ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of whipped cream ; fill your mould, and proceed as before. BOHEMIAN JELLY CREAMS. No. 245. Strawberry. Pick and pass through a fine sieve a pottle of very fresh strawberries, to which add the juice of a lemon, six ounces of powdered sugar, and an ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass (or suffi¬ cient calf’s foot jelly to set it), put the above ingredients into a bowl, which set upon ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in three parts of a pint of cream, previously whipped ; fill your mould, and proceed as before. For cherries, raspberries, and currants, proceed as for strawberries, but for apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, &c., proceed as follows. No. 246. Apricot Bohemian Cream. Stone and cut into slices ten KITCHEN AT HOME. 703 or twelve rather small apricots, quite ripe, and throw them into a stewpan containing half a pint of boiling water, and let boil until forming a puree, when pass them through a hair sieve, add six ounces of powdered sugar, with the juice of two lemons, and an ounce and a half of isinglass, previously dis¬ solved ; place the whole in a bowl, which set upon ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of whipped cream, pour into your mould, which place upon ice, and turn out when ready to serve, as before. Should your apricots be very ripe there would be no necessity to boil them, but merely rub them through a sieve, mix the lemon-juice, sugar, and isin¬ glass, and finish as above. Creams of peaches or of any of the before-mentioned fruits are made in the same manner, but until you have confidence in yourself, it would be better to taste for the sweetness, and try the stiffness by placing a little upon ice previously to finishing it. No. 247. French Custard Cream. Have ready ten custard glasses, or small coffee cups, measure one of them ten times full of milk, which place in a stewpan and set upon the fire until boiling, when add a quarter of a pound of pow r dered sugar, and the rind of two lemons, free from pith, place the lid upon the stewpan, take from the fire and let infuse ten minutes, then in a basin have ready the yolks of eight eggs, with which stir in the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill the cups; have ready upon the fire a large flat stewpan, containing water sufficient to cover the bottom two inches in depth, and just simmering, stand in the cups, and let remain still simmering until the custards are quite firm, "when take them out, let remain until cold, when 'wash the cups outside, dress them upon a napkin and serve ; any kind of flavour may be introduced into the above, but for No. 248. Coffee Custard Cream proceed as follows: make half a pint of strong coffee according to the usual method, add half a pint of thin cream or milk previously boiled, sweeten to palate, mix with the yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and proceed precisely as directed in the last. No. 249. Coffee Custard Cream, White. Put a quarter of a pound of green Mocha coffee into a small stewpan, which place over a slow r fire, toss¬ ing the coffee over frequently until becoming lightly browned, but not black, in another stewpan have boiling a pint of milk, take from the fire, let infuse ten minutes, placing the lid upon the stewpan, then mix with eight yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and finish as before. No. 250. Chocolate Custard Cream. Scrape half a cake of good chocolate, which put into a stewpan, and moisten by degrees with a pint of warm milk and cream, when well dissolved mix with the yolks of eggs, and finish as before. Any of the above custards may be put into common tart dishes, and set in a potato steamer, or slowdy baked in the oven, should the above process be too tedious or inconvenient. Any description of English boiled custard may be made in the same man¬ ner, but instead of pouring it first into the cups, when the infusion is made, mix it with the yolks of eggs, and stir over the fire until thickening (but must not boil, or it would curdle), pass through a tammie, fill your cups or glasses, grate a little nutmeg over each, and serve when quite cold. 704 KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 251. Almond Custard Cream. The flavour of almonds, which appears to be so generally liked in England, and which were I to omit in custard I should consider to be a piece of neglect, is generally obtained by the use of an essence which I cannot at all approve of, but consider the fol¬ lowing method to obtain that delicious flavour to be much more commend¬ able : blanch and skin two ounces of sweet with a few bitter almonds, pound them well, with sufficient sugar to sweeten a pint of milk, which you have in a stewpan, when boiling throw in the almonds and sugar, cover the stew- pan, let infuse ten minutes in another stewpan, have the yolks of eight eggs, upon which pour the infusion, stirring it well and mixing by degrees, stir over the fire until thickening, when pass it through a tammie into a bowl, which place upon ice, or in cold water, keeping it stirred until quite cold, when mix a gill of cream whipped very stiff, fill your cups, sprinkle crushed ratafias over, and they are ready to serve. By adding a little dissolved isinglass to the above when cooling, any de¬ scription of spirits or liquors may be introduced. _ The cream may be omitted, it will then make a good plain custard. No. 252. Cabinet Pudding. Well butter a plain round mould or basin, round the interior of which stick a quantity of dried cherries, or Smyrna raisins, then about three parts fill the mould with sponge-cake, interspersing two ounces of ratafias, over which sprinkle a good glass of brandy, then have ready the following custard: boil a pint of milk, in which infuse the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in a basin, have six whole eggs, which well whisk, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and add the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill up the mould, round the edge of which place a band of buttered paper, have a convenient-sized stewpan, with about two inches in depth of boiling water, place in your pudding, cover a sheet of paper over, and let simmer gently over the fire, keeping the stewpan covered down close until the pudding becomes quite firm, by which time you should be ready to serve it, take out, detach the paper, and turn from the mould over upon a dish ; have ready the following sauce : put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, into which stir the yolks of two eggs, and add a glass¬ ful of brandy, with the juice of a lemon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten it, stir over the fire until becoming a little thick, when pass it through a tammie, sauce over the pudding and serve. No. 253. Bread Pudding. Procure four French rolls, the crumb of which put into a basin, with a pint of boiling milk, let remain until half cold, when add six whole eggs, with a quarter of a pound of currants, and one ounce of candied citron, cut into very small dice, mix the whole well together, have ready prepared as in the last a plain round mould, in which pour the above mixture, steam it as in the last; when done and ready to serve, turn from the mould, and serve with the same sauce poured over as before directed. No. 254. Ground Rice Pudding. Place a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling throw in the rind of a lemon, cut as thinly as possible, and quite free from pith ; take from the fire, cover the stewpan, and leave ten minutes to infuse; then in a basin have six ounces of ground rice, which mix smoothly with half a pint of cold milk, take out the lemon- peel from the milk in the stewpan, pour in the mixture, and stir the whole over the fire until thickening, when take from the fire; add six whole eggs. KITCHEN AT HOME. 705 six ounces of powdered sugar and a little grated nutmeg, mix the whole well together, have ready, well buttered, a pudding-dish, into which pour the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until set ; serve hot. No. 255. Rice Pudding. Well wash six ounces of Carolina rice in one or two waters, drain and dry it upon a cloth, and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of butter, place the stewpan over a moderate fire, allowing its contents to simmer very gently until the rice becomes quite tender, when add six whole eggs well whipped, six ounces of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg ; pour into a buttered pudding- dish, and bake in a moderate oven until set and nicely coloured; serve hot as before. Sago, tapioca, semoulina, and vermicelli puddings are made very similar to the last, and served the same; they may of course be flavoured with lemon, any description of spice approved of, or a couple of glasses of brandy, rum, noyeau, maresquino, or almost any description of wine, spirits, or liqueurs. No. 256. Macaroni Pudding. Have half a pound of macaroni, which boil in half a gallon of water until becoming tender, when drain it upon a sieve ; have ready boiling in a stewpan half a pint of milk, in which put the macaroni (having previously cut it into pieces an inch in length), with a quarter of a pound of butter and the rind of a lemon free from pith tied in a a bunch; let simmer gently about twenty minutes, when take out the lemon- peel, and add six whole eggs, well whisked, with six ounces of sugar; have ready a pudding-dish well buttered, into which pour the above preparation; bake and serve as before. No. 257. Gateau of Rice. Well wash half a pound of Carolina rice, which well drain and put into a stewpan with a quart of milk, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a few sticks of cinnamon; let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is very tender and the whole becoming thickish, when take out the pieces of cinnamon; add six ounces of powdered sugar and eight whole eggs, stir in quickly over the fire until becoming again thickish, when have ready a plain oval mould, well butter the interior, lay a sheet of buttered paper at the bottom, pour in the above, filling the mould to within three quarters of an inch from the rim, and place in a moderate oven, where let remain until set quite firm, when take from the oven, turn out of your mould upon a dish, and serve quite hot with a sauce over, as directed for cabinet pudding. Gateaux of macaroni, vermicelli, &c., may also be made by the above direc¬ tions, preparing them as for pudding, but making the mixture as directed for the rice. No. 258. Fruit Puddings. As almost every description of fruit pudding is made in the same manner, I consider it would be entirely useless to enter into their details, so shall here content myself with merely giving a description of the apple pudding, which, although one of the most common, is in my opinion one of the best. Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with which mix half a pound of beef suet, well shred and finely chopped, make a hole in the centre, in which pour nearly half a pint of water, mixing the flour and suet in by degrees, and shaking the whole lightly together, then take two thirds, which 45 706 KITCHEN AT HOME. roll up into a ball, and with the rolling-pin form it into a round sheet, nearly half an inch in thickness ; have ready a round-bottomed basin well buttered and floured, which line with the sheet of paste, keeping it about an inch above the rim of the basin ; have also ready sufficient apples peeled and cut in slices, with which fill the interior, adding a piece of butter the size of a walnut, six ounces of powdered or brown sugar, six or eight cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; wet round the edge of the paste above the basin, roll out the remainder to form a lid of about the same thickness, lay it over the top, joining them well together, then tie the pudding with the basin in a cloth; have ready a good-sized stewpan over the fire, three parts full of boiling water, into which put the pudding, boiling it about an hour and a half; when done and ready to serve take it from the cloth, pass your knife carefully round the sides between the pudding and the basin, turn over upon a dish, lift the basin from it gently, and serve as soon as possible. Some people prefer the paste for fruit puddings made of butter, which is also very good; but in my opinion the suet paste is much lighter; the trimmings of puff-paste, if any, would also make an excellent crust for a fruit. Puddings of gooseberries, cherries, currants, raspberries, plums, damsons, &c. are made precisely the same, but omitting the cloves, nutmeg, and piece of butter, and less boiling. No. 259. Pastry. For the making of good puff-paste I could not give a more simple receipt than that (page 479) in the other department, to which I must refer my readers, as also for lialf-puff-paste (page 480), which will be found very serviceable in the making of pies or fruit tarts, the method of making which it is here my intention to describe, but for all other dishes of small fancy pastry, a great variety will be found in the Kitchen of the Wealthy, very simply explained, and requiring no greater convenience to make than what my Kitchen at Home mil afford. No. 260. Short Paste for Fruit Tarts. Although I have above stated that the half-puff is very excellent for the covering of fruit tarts, I am also aware that very many persons prefer a short sweet paste, as such I have given the following receipt, leaving my readers to choose between the two, the process being the same for either. Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with six ounces of butter, and rub them well together with your hands, then make a hole in the centre, in which put two ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, and rather more than a wineglassful of water : mix the eggs, sugar, an cl water well together, then draw in the flour and butter, shaking the whole well, and when dry work it together lightly with the hands. No. 261. Apricot Tarts. For tarts the apricots do not require to be too ripe. Procure about two dozen, or according to the size of your dish, split each one in halves, break their stones and take out their kernels, which blanch and skin, lay the apricots in your dish, building them in the form of a dome above the level of your dish, and interspersing the kernels here and there, cover them over with half a pound of lump sugar broken very small; have ready sufficient lialf-puff-paste (page 480), or the tart-paste just described, a band of which, the eighth of an inch in thickness, lay round the rim of your dish, previously wetting it, then roll out a sheet of the paste large enough to KITCHEN AT HOME. 707 cover the fruit, and a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet the band of paste upon your dish, and lay the cover over, in which prick a hole in each side between the fruit and the edge of the dish, forming a well all round, and closing the paste well at the edges, trim round with a knife, with which also decorate the edges, wet the top well with white of egg beat to a light froth, over which sprinkle two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, sprinkle with water until the sugar is well dissolved (but not to run off), place in a moderate oven, and bake about an hour, keeping it a very light brown colour, serve when cold. No. 262. Greengage Tart. Procure a sufficient number of ripe green¬ gages, which put into your dish whole, giving them the form of a dome at the top, and if about two dozen covering them with six ounces of powdered sugar; cover with paste, and proceed exactly as described in the last. Any description of plum tart is made precisely in the same manner, as also are gooseberry, cherry, currant and raspberry, cranberry, &c., and all requiring about the same time and same description of oven. No. 263. Apple Tart. Peel and cut about two dozen russet apples in slices, which put into your dish, interspersing them with some lemon peel (free from pith) cut into strips, about six cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; build the apples up in a dome to the centre of your dish, and cover over with half a pound of powdered sugar, then have ready half a pound of puff-paste made as directed (page 479), with which make a band a quarter of an inch in thickness, laying it round the rim of the dish, roll out the remainder of the paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and large enough to cover the fruit, wet the band of paste upon the dish with a little water, lay the cover gently over, pricking a hole with your knife at the top to let out the air, closing it gently at the edges, which trim neatly with a knife; egg the top over with a paste brush, and place in a moderate oven to bake, which will take about an hour; just before taking from the oven sift a little sugar over, and let remain until melted, forming a nice glaze over the tart, which may be served either hot or cold. Brown sugar may be used for any of the above tarts if approved of, but I have given directions for the white, considering that the brown, although commonly used, frequently destroys the delicious flavour of some descriptions of fruit. The salamander may be used to brown it. No. 264. French Fruit Tart. Make half a pound of paste as directed (No. 1136, page 481), mould it into a round ball upon your marble slab, and roll to a round sheet a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet round the rims, turning the edge over to form a border half an inch in depth, which press up with your finger and thumb to about an inch in height, have ready about twenty greengages, or any other description of plums, split each one into two, and place them in the interior of your tart, shake some sugar over, and bake about half an hour in a hot oven ; serve cold, shaking more sugar over at the time of serving. They may also be made with apricots, peaches, cherries, currants, raspberries, cranberries or gooseberries, in the same manner; but if made of apples, the fruit must be previously boiled to a marmalade, or stewed in a stewpan with sugar and a small piece of butter until tender, pre¬ vious to putting them in the crust; fruit baked in these tarts is also very ex¬ cellent meringued as directed (No. 267) ; plain whipped cream with a little sugar is very good for a change. 70S KITCHEN AT HOME. No. 265. Plain Souffle Puddings. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of flour, mix well together, then add half a pint of milk, with a little salt, and two ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a fresh lemon or orange, keep stirring over the fire until it thickens, but if becoming too thick, which will depend upon the flour, add more milk, but if the contrary, let reduce until forming a fine softish paste ; when stir in quickly the yolks of four eggs, when well mixed set by until cold ; you have reserved the whites of the eggs, which, half an hour before serving, whip to a stiffish froth, and mix well but lightly with the other part of the preparation, pour the whole into a deep pie-dish, previously well buttered, and set it in a warm oven, when about half done cut an in¬ cision in the top and put again in the oven, when done shake powdered sugar over the top, glaze lightly with the salamander, if any, and serve imme¬ diately. Better the guests wait a few minutes for the souffle than the souffle for the guests. No. 266. Souffle Rice Pudding. Well wash two ounces of Carolina rice, which when dry put into a stewpan with nearly a pint of milk, an ounce of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, a little salt, and a spoonful of powdered sugar ; set upon the fire until boiling, when draw it to the corner, where let simmer very gently (or place the stewpan upon a trivet at a good- height from the fire) until the rice is very tender, when take it from the fire, and beat well with a wooden spoon until forming a smoothish paste, when add the yolks of four or five eggs, mixing them well, pour the whites of the eggs into a bowl, whisk them until very stiff, and mix lightly with the preparation; have ready, buttered lightly, a deep pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and about a quarter of an hour before ready to serve place it in a moderate oven, serving when done, and the moment you take it from the oven. Half the above quantity may of course be made. Souffle of ground rice is made the same as the above, the rice, however, not requiring so long to simmer as when whole. As also are souffles of tapioca, semoulina, vermicelli, &c., changing their flavours according to taste, using vanilla, lemon, orange, orange-flower water, or a small quantity of any de¬ scription of liqueur. A few currants may also be mixed with any of the pre¬ parations, or laid at the bottom of the dish, as also may any description of light preserves. No. 267. Fruits Meringued. Any description of fruits maybe served to table meringued by following the above directions. For apples, peel and cut six into slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, cut into thin strips, with the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, or if the apples are per¬ fectly ripe not quite so much, place the stewpan over a moderate fire, tossing the apple over occasionally until quite done, half fill a pie-dish with them, then whip the whites of four eggs to a very stiff froth, with which mix very lightly a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and lay over the apples in the dish, shake a little sugar over and set in a slow oven until forming quite a dry crust; it had better remain in the oven a little too long than not long enough, but be sure that the oven is not too hot when you put it in, or it would catch and become quite black, instead of being what it should be, a very light brown, or gold colour. KITCHEN AT HOME. 709 Apricots, pears, &c., may be done the same, but omitting the butter; for either cover whilst still warm. The above fruits also thus prepared may be covered with a souffle of rice, or ground-rice pudding, and baked, they may be then served either hot or cold. No. 268. Snow Eggs are made with the whites of the eggs, thus : whip the whites of five eggs very stiff, to which add (mixing lightly) five ounces of sugar ; have boiling in a flat stewpan upon the fire a pint of milk, form pieces of the mixture with a table-spoon to the shape of eggs, and drop them into the boiling milk to poach; when set rather firm take them out with a colan¬ der-spoon, and lay them upon a sieve with a plate under to drain; when all poached your milk will be reduced to about half; then in another stewpan put the yolks of three eggs, with a little sugar, and a few drops of orange- flower water, beat well together, then add the milk and keep stirring over the fire until forming a thickish custard, (but not allowing it to boil), when pass it through a tammie, dress the eggs tastefully in crown upon your dish, pour the custard over and serve. You may also poach six or eight very fresh eggs in water, with which you have added a little vinegar; when well set take out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon a cloth until cold, dress them upon a dish, or in a flat glass dish, pour a custard over, prepared as above, but with which, if handy, you have mixed a little whipped cream. For every description of omelettes I must refer my readers to the series of omelettes in the other department of this work. No. 269. Plum Pudding. Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants, (well washed, dried, and picked,) a pound and a half of good beef suet, (chopped, but not too fine,) three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs and a little milk, have ready a plain or ornamented pudding mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half, (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding cloth previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no difference in the time required for boiling;) when done take out of the cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, spri nkl e a little powdered sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of pow¬ dered sugar, and a gill of milk, mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over the fire until becoming thickish, (but do not let it boil,) when add two glasses of brandy and serve. The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding if approved of. An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet. No. 270. Currant Pudding. Put a pound and a half of flour into a basin, with a pound of beef suet, shred and chopped very fine, and a pound of currants, well washed, picked, and dried, add a little powdered cinnamon, 710 KITCHEN AT HOME. or grated nutmeg, and mix well together, with four whole eggs, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and half a pint of milk, boil it as directed for plum pudding, either in a mould or tied in a cloth, but two hours would be suffi¬ cient ; when done turn out upon a dish and serve quite plain, or with sauce as above. The above mixture divided in small puddings or dumplings about the size of apples, boiled about half an hour, and served hot to table with a little powdered sugar over are also excellent. No. 271. Sweet Maccaroons. Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar, with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve, put it again into the mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs, and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances apart upon wafer paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish-brown colour, they are done when set quite firm through. No. 2/2. Bitter Maccaroons, or Ratafias, are made similar to the above, but deducting two ounces of sweet and adding two ounces of bitter almonds, they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven ; when cold they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease. These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course dishes. No. 273. Mince Meat. Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet, which skin and chop very finely, have also three pounds of candied lemon and orange-peel, a quarter of a pound of citron, a pound and a half of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole sepa¬ rately chopped very fine and put into a large pan with four pounds and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed spice, and two pounds of sugar ; mix the whole well together with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above. No. 274. Mince Pies. Have a piece of puff-paste made as directed (p. 479), which roll out to the,thickness of a penny-piece, have also a dozen tartelette-pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartelette-pans, lay them upon the slab, roll the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the tartelette-pans, put a piece of mince-meat in each, wet them round, place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven. END or RECEii’TS EOR KITCHEN AT HOME, 711 TO MAKE COFFEE IN AN ECONOMICAL MANNER. \ BY MY MENAGERE. After constant supplications to my menagere, I have obtained at last a valuable receipt of the method of making my coffee at home, which I must say she may well be proud of, having been continually complimented by my guests on account of its excellence. It was only by touching her vanity, and assuring her that it was not to oblige me but the public at large, that she permitted me to give it publicity, on the condition, however, that her name be appended. “ Buy your coffee not over burnt; grind it at home if possible. Have a middle-sized filter like ours, which holds a little more than a quart, and came from Jakes’ or Benham’s, I forget which (but that is of little consequence, as you merely want the receipt), pour about a pint of boiling water into the filter to heat it through, then empty it, and put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee on the filter ; then put on the presser, and lastly the grating; then pour about half a pint of quite boiling water over it, put the cover on, and let it drain through. “ After three or four minutes pour by degrees a pint and a half more boiling water, and when well passed through pour it from the filter into a very clean stewpan; set it on the corner of the fire, and when a little white scum rises to the surface (not letting it boil) pour it a second time over the filter, and when passed through pom* either into the silver cafetiere or the cups. Serve boiling milk or cream in two small jugs, and white or brown, or sometimes candied sugar.” After promising her a fine gown for her kindness, I gave her a pen to sign her name. “ But stop,” says she, “ I forgot that for your breakfast the next day I use a system of economy which I think will please : as soon as I have poured the coffee from the coffee-pot, I put another quart of boiling«water over it. This I find saves me an ounce of coffee by boiling it instead of water, and pouring it over as before.” (Signed) “ Irma de L’Ombre.” 712 THE FOLLOWING IS A CORRECT COPY OF A MONSTER BILL OF FARE FROM A PAPER FOUND IN THE TOWER OF LONDON. George Nevil Brother to the great Earl of Warwick, at his instalment into the Archbishoprick of York in the year 1470, made a feast for the Nobility, Gentry, and Clergy, wherein he spent 300 Quarters of Wheat. 300 Tuns of Ale. 104 Tuns of Wine. One pipe of spiced Wine. 10 fat Oxen. 6 Wild Bulls. 300 Pigs. 1004 Weathers. 300 Hogs. 3000 Calves. 3000 Geese. 300 Capons. 100 Peacocks. 200 Cranes. 200 Kids. 2000 Chickens. 4000 Pigeons. 4000 Rabbits. 4000 Ducks. 204 Bitterns. 400 Hernsies. 200 Pheasants. 500 Partridges. 5000 Woodcocks. 400 Plovers. 100 Curlues. 100 Quails. 1000 Eggets. 200 Rees 4000 Bucks, Does, and Roebucks. 155 Hot Venison Pasties. 4000 Cold Venison Pasties. 1000 Dishes of Jellies. 2000 Hot Custards. 4000 Cold Custards. 400 Tarts, 300 Pikes, 300 Breams. 8 Seals and 4 Porpoises. At the feast the Earl of Warwick was Steward, the Earl of Bedford Trea¬ surer, the Lord Hastings Comptroller, with many noble officers: Servitors 1000, Cooks 62, Kitcheners, and 515 Scullions. For description of the above, read the introduction for French Pot-au-feu, page 649. NEW PAGODATIQUE ENTREE DISH, A LA SOYER.* The union which has been forced between the “ Children of the Sun ” and those of proud Albion has thrown some beneficial rays upon our Euro¬ pean domains and costumes, and if they have not improved our manners and habits, they have at all events changed them. It is true that we had, previously to this, reaped marvellous things from the “ Celestial Empirebut the English nation, always eager for novelty, could not be contented with their ( Ombres Chinoises) Chinese shadows, but must possess them in reality. Since this astonishing conquest you have Chinese quadrilles, Chinese fashions, exhibitions furiously Chinese , and, for certain, several millions of dollars, which are every bit as Chinese as the il¬ lustrious descendant of more than forty centuries, whom you are still expect¬ ing as a most extraordinary ambassador. I already perceive that your shoes, “jolies Anglaises,” change and diminish with great rapidity. Even now you appear to walk with difficulty ; really, if you continue this practice, you will, like the Mandarins’ ladies, have very pretty feet for sitting, but very bad ones for walking. The intellectual part, which is covered with your splendid “blonde chevelure,'” will suffer as much as your little feet; and it will be a contest be¬ tween your astonishing and gracious Amazons, who shall have their hair turned up first, in hopes to resemble your celestial sister and nuptial com¬ panion of the expected plenipotentiary. Your beautiful eyes, I hope, will re¬ main in their primitive purity ; also that clear and rich tone of colour, which brings to mind those extraordinary fine visages clair de lune de V antiquite. The island of Great Britain adds to and preserves this superb and almost ephemeric colour, unknown to the soil of the Continent. You may, nymphs of the ocean, let your nails grow in the fantastic man¬ ner of that captured country; that is, near an inch longer than our insignifi¬ cant custom in Europe, which is, they say, “ a part of the world far from being civilized.” I would also advise you to use with moderation the beaume Cremeux Houbigant, which will preserve them that beautiful vermeil, so greatly admired. But reflect for a moment, in giving full scope to your fashionable taste, you sacrifice a thousand chef-d’ceuvres, and entirely forsake our illustrious fa¬ vorites, Mozart, Rossini, Meyerbeer, Auber, Handel, and many others; be¬ cause you recollect that the harp, guitar, piano, &c., were not invented for the Mandarines : but setting aside all these little tribulations, while walking about with pain, you will have the gratification of hearing, “ There goes a lady of the newest fashion.” * Extracted from my “ Delassements Culinaires,” lately published by Jcffe, Bur- lhigton Arcade ; a Second Edition of which will shortly appear. 714 PAGODATIQUE ENTREE DISH. While discoursing upon these trifling subjects, I did not perceive an enor¬ mous Epicurean, not very particular in fashions, and still less partial to po¬ litics, (which proves the difficulty of finding several great accomplishments centred in one person,) was waiting with intense anxiety, to hear the result of the notice on the title-page ; immediately addressing me, he exclaimed, as our satiric Boileau might have said, “ Tout ce que vous venez de debiter est certainement bien plat ”—“ but where the deuce is your new plat d’entree, or entree dish ?” I begged a thousand pardons of my antagonist, and perceived, to my great surprise, that I had involuntarily left my culinary laboratory to undertake an ephemeric voyage to China. After an apology on each side, the following dialogue took place between us : “ There is the model of the dish ; what do you think of it, sir?” I perceive with pleasure,” he very politely replied, “that I have not lost anything by waiting; it displays great taste and originality, and possesses the seal of innovation.” “Allow me to take off the cover.” PAGODATIQUE ENTREE DISH. 715 “ Ah ! what is the use of those divisions, or compartments ?” * “ The Chinese, as I have been informed by several celebrated travellers, amongst which your great diplomatist, Sir Henry Pottinger (to whom I had lately the honour of being introduced, upon the occasion of his visit to the Club),’ in viewing the dish, certified what I had previously heard from several illustrious men-By the by, he has honoured me by subscribing for a set of them—here is my album, and see, there is his autograph : —for four pagodatique entree dishes; this completes the service for the pre¬ sent, but in a short time a complete service for first and second course can be easily manufactured at a reasonable price-But to return to the subject. I was telling you that those gentlemen had informed me that the Chinese have, upon their tables at their banquets, a profusion of fowls, and birds of all kinds, served with sauce or gravy, a plate being placed before each guest, similar to the European fashion, surrounded by three or four small saucers, each containing different ingredients, spices and pickles, suited to the dish they partake of; each person takes a wing or fillet, that being the only part they consider eatable. They then cut it in small pieces, on their plates, and dip them into the different sauces, until they produce a favorite seasoning to their taste. It might not be to either yours or mine, but for all that, I do not blame them.” “ ’Pon my word, it is very curious and clever; by this mode your plate is free from incumbrance, a fault with which I always reproach our nation.” “ I have frequently heard of a ‘ Potage aux nids d’oiseau/ we call it in English, bird’s-nest soup ; it is said to be of the most astonishing delicate substance.” “ I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon that subject; we will now return to our new ‘ plat d’entree.’ ” Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times; why, I thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as ridiculous as any other person; I therefore submitted to the proprietor of a large china establish¬ ment a drawing, from which he executed with great taste this pagodatique table ornament. “ The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood, one entree may have four different sauces, four entries the varieties of sixteen, or of eight, by putting the sauce double, I mean two compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the entree as the Chinese do, au naturel. To add * To show plainly the interior of this dish, it has been drawn one size larger than it is in reality. These dishes are only to be had by applying to Mr. Soyer, of the Reform Club , or at Mr. George Smith’s, No. 57, Conduit Street, Regent Street, being the only manufacturer. 716 PAGODATIQUE ENTREE DISH. to its great variety, small dinners ( tres rechercMs) can be served upon it for one or two persons, the sight of a small and delicate entrSe will sometimes invite the appetite, where a large ektrSe approaches too near vulgarity, and would produce a contrary eff ect ; to know how to live an epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our wishes were accomplished life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing can effect this important object but the delicacy and lightness of a well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first-rate epicure will not only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimu¬ lation, but he will, at the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have been busily employed in administering to his taste. I must also observe, that from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always bear in mind that ‘ moderation is the goddess of health.’ ” “ Very true ! very true !” “ For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of health ; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and still less the plea¬ sure of degustation ; so true is this, that even the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where health is compromised; the most delicate food loses its zest, the most melodious chords of music, and the greatest optical delights are evanescent, the beauties of nature are lost, and everything is without charm, even the sun—yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and uni¬ versal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study those great agents of nature, which preside over our organic movements. Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of Epicurus; excess and want of experience have often been the cause of man falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his health. From the celestial vault the indefinable power desires to guide us safely, and by following his divine lesson we shall not only enjoy extreme happiness, but obey the dic¬ tates of our great and wise Creator.” “ I perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognized the profound truth of it. If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind as to name a few entrees you would recommend for these compartments, and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies?” “ It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several : for in¬ stance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre, filets de sole cl la Hollandaise, and in the four corners Deux Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois, Un Filet de Volaille, pique a la Puree de Champignons, Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes, Demi Perdreaux en Salmi. Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges, Quatre Rissoles aux Huitres. In the centre. Poulet printanier pique aux Cressons, Deux Cotelettes de Mouton a la Reforme, Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux Truffes. PAGODATIQUE ENTREE DISH. 717 Centre. Deux Filets de Grouse a la Bohemienne., Deux Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf, sauce poivrade, One slice of Salmon en Matelote, Deux Croquettes de Volaille, a la Puree de Foie Gras, Un Ris de Yeau pique a la Financiere. Centre. Deux Grenadins de Yeau a la Palestine, Deux Boudins de Volaille a la Richelieu, Roast Duckling, Deux Eperlans frits a la Boulangere, Salmi de Becasse. Centre. Deux Ris d’Agneau pique a la Puree de Choufleurs. Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne, A slice of Turbot a la Mazarine, Un Ailleron et Filet de Volaille a la Marengo, Deux Rissolettes & la Pompadour. “ I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare for the same. Centre. Pommesde Terre a la Maitre d’Hotel, Carbonade de Mouton a la Provengale, Small Rumpsteak, Un Choufleur, sauce au beurre, Un Pigeonneau a la Jardiniere, Centre. Choux de Bruxelles a la Creme, Minced Veal and two poached Eggs, Half a broiled Fowl with gravy, Pomme de Terre a la Hollandaise, Un Filet de Bceuf, sauce tomate. Centre. Deux Cotelettes de Mouton a la Soubise, Quatre Jerusalem Artichauts a la Bechamel, Slice of Cod and Oyster sauce. Minced Beef, Sauce piquante, Pomme de Terre frite. Centre. Stewed Oysters, Two Potatoes plain boiled, Stewed Rabbit and Onion sauce. Two Escalopes of Veal and Ham, Un Brocoli, Sauce au beurre. “The sauces and garnitures of many of these may he varied; and as you see in some of the lists two entries only served, and the other two compart¬ ments filled with vegetables either plain or dressed, the centre remaining for something larger, either plain or dressed, according to the taste of different persons ; but your good judgment will enable you to perceive clearly that the variations of which it is capable are almost without end. I beg also to ob¬ serve that the dish after having been placed an hour or two in a hot closet (as it is customary to do with all dishes previous to the dinner being served), it will retain the heat nearly an hour, without applying hot w r ater, red-hot 718 PAGODATIQUE ENTREE DISH. iron, or spirits of wine, which always produces a disagreeable effect, and is often the cause of a dinner being detained, as they must wait till the last minute before this operation commences. This essential part,” he replied, “added to its elegance, holds out most favorable prospects of success to this beautiful Pagodatique dish ; and I really cannot see why in a dinner of eight or ten entrees, the four corners could not be ornamented with such dishes; as they would produce the most agreeable effects, for too great uniformity in a service is not very picturesque, and unfortunately always employed.” “ I have only one more favour to ask of you—it relates to those birds’ nests.” “ For the present I hope you will excuse me, as it is now five o’clock, and from six to eight I have several petits diners tres recherchh, which require all my attention; but favour me with another visit shortly, and then we will terminate our culinary conversation, without occupying our precious time about the eccentric Chinese, but will confine ourselves to their nests.” “ You are quite right in mentioning it. I should be very sorry to impor¬ tune you, for I know too well what it is to wait impatiently for a dinner, and know it to be equally as bad for a dinner to wait for you.” “ Both are very bad, but the latter is almost unpardonable to a real gourmet.” “ It may be, but observe, that by making a hungry stomach wait, you expose it to commit the greatest injustice; because that ungrateful organ will make one believe that the minutes you are kept waiting before dinner are longer than the hours spent after.” “ Your argument is but too true, sir, and it will prove to you at the same time, that there are immense difficulties to be surmounted in our very difficult and complicated profession, independent of the trouble and tedious work which must be carried safely through the greatest anxiety.” “Very true! very true! I wish you good afternoon; and before I leave London I shall do myself the pleasure of paying you another visit. Good day.” “ I can assure you, sir, you will be most welcome. Oh, by the by, I am sorry to call you down stairs again, I will be with you in half a minute; here it is, I beg your acceptance of this small brochure, it is a receipt for the most recherche dish that ever was invented, it is extracted from my gastronomic work now in progress.” “ Oh ! I am one of your subscribers ; when will it appear ?” “ Not before next season.” “ That’s a long time.” “Yes, sir ; but it is my intention to make an entire new work of it, and very different to any culinary work previously published. By that I do not mean to say it will be better, and perhaps not so good as many of them; but it will contain a large number of new receipts, written in a style which, I flatter myself, will tend very much to simplify the present system.” “Let me see this receipt, but I require my spectacles —here they are. — ‘ La Creme de la Grande Bretagne, Macedoine ; but it is French, I am sorry for that.” “ Why, sir?” “ Because my cook is English, and it will be very difficult for him to make, as he understands so little of French.” “ Oh sir, if that is his only preventive it would be a pity to deprive you of having it, so here is an English translation of it. You are welcome to both, sir.” “ ‘ The Cream of Great Britain,’ ” oh ! thank you ! thank you ! I will read CULINARY INNOVATION. 719 it at home and then give it to him ; but is it practicable at this season of the year.” “ Quite as practicable at one season as another, for it is partly composed of flowers which bloom in all seasons.” “ Indeed! then I will certainly have it made.” “ I depend upon your impartial judgment; be so kind as to let me know what you think of that unique composition.” “ I will, without fail, and do myself the pleasure of writing you a note upon that subject. Good afternoon.” “ Good afternoon, sir.” It has been reported to us, that as soon as he got home, he comfortably set himself in his arm-chair a la Douariere, and appeared reading with great surprise, the receipt for THE CELESTIAL AND TERRESTRIAL CREAM OE GREAT BRITAIN* Procure, if possible, the antique Vase of the Roman Capitol; the Cup of Hebe; the Strength of Hercules; and the power of Jupiter; Then proceed as fottoivs :— Have ready the chaste Vase (on the glittering rim of which three doves are resting in peace), and in it deposit a Smile from the Duchess of Sutherland, from which Terrestrial Deesse it will be most graceful; then add a Lesson from the Duchess of Northumberland; the Happy Remembrance of Lady Byron; an Invitation from the Marchioness of Exeter; a Walk in the Fairy Palace of the Duchess of Buckingham; an Honour of the Marchioness of Douro; a Sketch from Lady Westmoreland; Lady Chesterfield’s Conversation; the Deportment of the Mar¬ chioness of Aylesbury; the Affability of Lady Marcus Hill; some Romances of Mrs. Norton; a Mite of Gold from Miss Coutts; a Royal Dress from the Duchess of Buccleugh; a Re¬ ception from the Duchess of Leinster ; a Fragment of the Works of Lady Blessington; a Ministerial Secret from Lady Peel; a Gift from the Duchess of Bedford; an Interview with Madame de Bunsen; a Diplomatic Reminiscence from the Marchioness of Clanricarde; an Autocratic Thought from the Baroness Brunow; a Reflection from Lady John Russell; An amiable Word from Lady Wilton ; the Protection of the Countess de St. Aulaire; a Seraphic Strain from Lady Essex; a poetical gift of the Baroness de la Calabrala; a Welcom'e from Lady Alice Peel; the Sylph¬ like form of the Marchioness of Abercorn; a Soiree of the Duchess of Beaufort; a Reverence of the Viscountess Jocelyn; and the good-will of Lady Palmerston. Season with the Piquante Observation of the Marchioness of Londonderry; the Stately Mien of the Countess of Jersey; the 720 CULINARY INNOVATION. Tresor of the Baroness Rothschild; the Noble Devotion of Lady Sale; the Knowledge of the Fine Arts of the Marchioness of Lansdowne; the Charity of the Lady De Grey; a Criticism from the Viscountess of Melville:—with a Musical Accompaniment from the whole; and Portraits of all these Ladies taken from the Book of Celebrated Beauties. Amalgamate scientifically; and should you find this Appareil, (which is without a parallel,) does not mix well, do not regard the expense for the completion of a dish worthy of the Gods ! Endeavour to procure, no matter at what price, a Virtuous Maxim from the Book of Education of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent; a Kiss from the Infant Princess Alice; an Innocent Trick of the Princess Royal; a Benevolent Visit from the Duchess of Gloucester; a Maternal Sentiment of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge; a Compliment from the Princess Augusta de Mecklenbourg; the future Hopes of the Young Princess Mary;- And the Munificence of Her Majesty Queen Adelaide. Cover the Vase with the Reign of Her Most Gracious Majesty, and let it simmer for half a century, or more, if possible, over a Eire of Immortal Roses. Then uncover, with the greatest care and precision, this Mys¬ terious Vase; garnish the top with the Aurora of a Spring- Morning ; several Rays of the Sun of France; the Serenity of an Italian Sky; and the Universal Appreciation of the Peace of Europe. Add a few Beams of the Aurora Borealis; sprinkle over with the Virgin Snow of Mont Blanc; glaze with an Eruption of Mount Vesuvius; cause the Star of the Shepherd to dart over it; and remove, as quickly as possible, this chef-d'oeuvre of the nine¬ teenth century from the Volcanic District. Then fill Hebe’s Enchanted Cup with a religious Balm, and with it surround this mighty Cream of Immortality; Terminate with the Silvery light of the Pale Queen of Night, without disturbing a Ray of the Brilliancy of the brightest Queen of the Day. Note. “We are authorised by the Author, to inform his readers, that even up to this moment, of finishing the printing, no answer has been received from the Gourmet before mentioned, stating his opinions with regard to the Cream of Great Britain, on account, as we have been informed, of his cook not having as yet been able to complete the Dish.—J. E. Adlard. The above Cut represents “ The Dindoneau a la Nelson.”— See page 510. “ Poulardes en Diademe.”— See page 515, Galantine a la Voliere, (No. 1012.) Salade de Grouse a la Soyer, (No 1038) C'roustads for Filet de Boeuf a la Jcan d Arc, (No. 418.) Croustade for the Poulardes en Diadems (No. 515.) Croustade for the Turkey a la Nelson, (No. 510.) G-ateau Britannique a l'Amiral, (No 1298.) Lucile Grahn and Cento s Sultane Sylphe a la Fille de 1 Ora^e, (No 1316) Garnish with a Silver Terpsichcrean AtteleLte. Three Jelly Moulds, from which when the Jelly is turned it must be surmounted with Attelettes of b ruit. Attelettes. The above attelettes are quite new, the four large ones being used for flancs or removes, and garnished as represented in the plate containing the croustades. They may also be garnished with vegetables turned of a good shape, and lightly stewed. The one representing a dolphin is used to garnish dressed fish, but must always be fixed upon a croustade, either at the head or in the centre of the dish, but so as not to interfere with the carving. The one representing a shell, as well as the last mentioned, arc also used for any kind of aiguilettes or hors d’oeuvres (page 161); the four smaller ones are to be lightly garnished with fresh fruits, and fixed upon the top of the jelly, the moulds for which are entitled jelly-moulds for attelettes; the heads of these last four smaller attelettes should be made with gold, to correspond well with the richness of colour of the jelly. TABLE OF CONTENTS. To render the Table of Contents more intelligible, the mere translation of all Comestibles and ingredients have been introduced. The translation of proper names would be useless. PAGE FOUNDATION SAUCES. Brown sauce - - - 1 Espagnole sauce - 2 Brown sauce from all sorts of meat - 4 For thickening brown sauce without making a roux - - -5 Veloute - - - * ib. Velout6, a plainer way - - 7 White sauce, or bechamel - - ib. Sauce Allemande (or German sauce blanche - - - - 8 Demi-glace 9 THIN SAUCES. Sauce au jus d’Estragon (tarragon) - ib. Jsu d’Estragon clair (clear) - 10 Sauce au jus de Tomates - - ib. au jus de Champignons (mush¬ rooms) - - ib. demi-provenjale - - 11 au jus Piquant (sharp) - ib. d’Ecbalotte - - ib. d’Orange - - ib. deBigarades (bitter oranges) 12 Jus lie demi Currie - - ib. aux Concombres (cucumbers) - ib. Truffles - - 13 Anchois (anchovy) - ib. fines Herbes - - ib. petits Navets (turnips) - 14 Olives - - - ib. SAUCES. Sauce aux fines Herbes - - ib. piquante (sharp) - 15 Robert - - - - ib. Robert demi-provenyale - ib. a l’ltalienne - - - 16 a l’ltalienne (white) - ib. poivrade - - - ib. poivrade demi-proven 9 ale - 17 a la Bateliere - - - ib. a la Reforme - - ib. au jus de Groseilles (currant jelly) 18 PAGE Sauce aux Tomates - - ib. a la Tartare - - - 19 Papillote Sauce - - - ib. Sauce a la Diable - - - 20 Corinthien - - - ib. Provenyale chaude - - 21 a la Maitre d’Hotel - - ib. & la Ravigote - - - ib. a l’Indienne - - - ib. Curry Sauce - - - - 22 Sauce Soubise - - * ib. Soubise (brown) - - 23 a la Milanaise - - ib. a la Financiere - - - ib. aux Truffles - - 24 aux Champignons (mushrooms) - ib. a la puree de Truffles - ib. a la puree de Champignons (mush ¬ rooms) - - - 25 Perigueux - - ib. Bechamel a la Creme - - ib. au Supreme - - 26 Veloute de Gibier (game) - - ib. Sauce a la puree de Gibier (ditto) 27 au fum6e de Gibier (ditto) - ib. Demi-glace de Gibier (ditto) - ib. Sauce matelote - - - 28 Genevoise - - - ib. a la Beyrout - - - ib. a l’essence de Poissons (of fish) 29 a la Hollandaise (Dutch) - ib. Caper Sauce - - - 30 Lobster Sauce - - - ib. Oyster Sauce - - - ib. another method - - 13 a plainer method - ib. Muscle Sauce - - - - ib. Melted Butter - - - ib. Anchovy Sauce - - - 32 Shrimp Sauce - - - ib. Demi Maitre d’Hotel Sauce - - ib. Feimel Sauce - - - - 32 Egg Sauce - - - ib. Lobster Butter - - - 33 Anchovy Butter - - ib. Maitre d’Hotel Butter • - ib. Ravigote Butter - - - ib. 46 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 2 PAGE SAUCES AND GARNITURES OF VEGETABLES. Purfe de Choux de Bruxelles (Brussell sprouts) - - - 34 Sauce aux Choux de Bruxelles - ib. Haricots verts (French beans) 35 Petit Pois a l’Anglaise (peas) - ib. Petits Pois au Lard (ditto) - - ib. Puree de Pois vert (ditto) - ib. A la Palestine (of artichokes) - 36 Palestine a la Bourgeoise - - ib. Palestine au maigre - - - ib. Puree d’Artichauts (artichokes) - 37 Puree a la Palestine maigre - - ib. Navets Vierges (tuinips) - - ib. Ragout de Navets a brun (ditto) - 38 Puree de Navets a blanc (ditto) - ib. Puree Navets a brun (ditto) - 38 Sauce aux Chouxfleurs (cauliflower) 39 Puree de Chouxfleurs (ditto) - - ib. Macedoine de Legumes (vegetables) ib. (brown) - - 40 Jardiniere (vegetables) - ib. Pointes d’Asperges en petits-pois - 41 Puree d’Asperges (sprue grass) - ib. Concombres a blanc (cucumbers) - ib. Concombres a brun - - - 42 Puree de Concombres - - ib Epinard au Jus (spinach) - - 43 Blanched Mushrooms - - ib. Puree d’Oseille (sorrel) - - 44 Ragout aux jeunes Racines (young ve¬ getables - ib. de pewits Oignons (onions) - ib. de petits Oignons a blanc - 45 Garniture de fond d’Artichauts - ib. de Haricots blancs nouveaux ib. Gros Oignons farcis (beans) - - 46 Stewed Cabbage Lettuce - - ib. Chou braise and Choucroute - - ib. Stewed Celery for Garniture and Celery Sauce 47 Chouxfleurs for garnitures (cauliflowers) ib. Cbicoree, or Endive Sauce - - 48 Appendix to the Sauces. Forcemeat of Veal - - - 48 Forcemeat of Rabbits - - - 48 Fowl - - ib. Game - - - 50 Whitings - - ib. Panada for Forcemeats - - ib. Forcemeat of Cod’s Liver - - ib. Veal Stuffing - - - - 51 To prepare Cockscombs - - ib. To boil Rice - - - - ib. To blanch Macaroni - - 52 Croquettes de Pommes de Terre (pota¬ toes) - - - - ib. Glaze ib. PAGE POTAGES OR SOUPS. Clear light Broth, or first Stock - 53 Consomme, or clear Soup - - ib. Brown Gravy - - - - 55 Potage a la Victoria - - 56 Louis Philippe - - 57 Prince of Wales - ib. Comte de Paris - - 58 Princesse Royale - 59 Saxe Cobourg - - 60 Comtesse 61 Gresham - - - ib. Colbert - 62 Clermont - ib. Macedoine de Legumes - 63 a la Jardiniere - - ib. Julienne - - ib. aux petits Navets a brun (turnips) 64 a la Printaniere - - ib. Jerusalem - - 65 Marcus Hill - - ib. aux pointes d’Asperges et CEufs poches (asparagus and poached eggs) 66 a la Brunoise - - ib. Nivernaise - - - 67 Palestine - - ib. puree de Navets (turnips) - ib. puree d’Asperges (asparagus) - 68 Crecy - - - ib. puree de Choufleur (cauliflower) 69 puree de Concombres (cucumbers) ib puree de Pois verts (peas) - 70 Clear Giblet Soup - - ib. Potage aux Queues de Boeuf (clair) (ox tails) - - - 71 aux Queues d’Agneau (lambs’ tails) - ib. aux Queues de Veau (clair) (calf’s tail) - - 72 a la Duchesse ... ib. Clear Grouse Soup - - 73 Partridge Soup - - - ib. Pheasant Soup - - ib. Woodcock Soup - - ib. Hare Soup - - - 74 Potage clair a la Poissoniere (fish soup) ib. Grouse Soup 75 Pheasant Soup - - 76 Partridge Soup - - - ib. Hare Soup - - - - ib. Puree of all kinds of Game, mixed or separate - - - 77 Giblet Soup - - - - ib. Potage a la Reine - - - 78 a la Regente . - - ib. Soup Mulligatawny - - ib. Potage Queues de Veau a blanc (calves’ tails) - - - 79 Queues de Veau a 1’Indienne ib. TetedeVeau al’Indienne (calf's head) - - - 80 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 3 PAGE Potage Queues de Bceuf a PIndienne (ox tails) - Queues de Bceuf a l’Anglaise aux Huitres (oysters) aux Filets de Soles (soles) a la Poissonniere d’Anguille (eels) - de Homard (lobster) a laChanoinaise - Pate d’ltalie au Vermicelle a la Semoule (semoulina) au Riz (rice) au Macaroni au Macaroni en rubans Turtle Soup - Clear Turtle Soup - Mock Turtle Soup Method of cleaning Salt-water Fish. 80 ib. 81 ib. 82 ib. 83 ib. 84 ib. ib. ib. 85 ib. ib. 87 88 Turbot - 90 Brill - - ib. John Dory ib. Cod-fish ... - ib. Whitings 91 Haddocks ... - ib. Salmon - 91 Soles - ib. Mackerel 92 Red Mullets - ib. Gurnets - ib. Herrings ... - ib. Smelts - ib. Method of cleaning Fresh-wate r Fish. Carp ... - ib. Pike ... 93 Trout ... - ib. Tench ... ib. Perch ... - 94 Eels ... ib. Lampreys ... - ib. potssons (fish). Turbot, to boil - 95 a la Creme (cream) ib. sauce Homard (lobster) - 96 a la Hollandaise - ib. Mazarine - ib. en Matelote Normande 97 en Matelote vierge - 98 a la R61igieuse ib. Creme (gratin6) - 99 Poissonniere - ib. Creme d’Anchois (anchovy) 100 Small Turbot a la Meuniere ib. Turbot au gratin a la Provenyale - 101 Brill au naturel ib. PAGE Brill a la puree de Capres (capers) - 101 a la Hollandaise - - 102 aux Capres (capers) - - ib. a la Meuniere - - ib. sauce Homard (lobster) - ib. a la Billingsgate - - ib. au gratin - - - 103 a la Creme d’Anchois (anchovy) ib. Filets de Brill a la Juive - - ib. en Matelote - 104 John Doree - - - - ib. a l’Orleannaise - ib. en Matelote Mariniere - 105 a la Cremiere - ib. en Ravigote - - 100 a la puree de Crevettes (shrimps) ib. Bateliere - - ib. Creme (gratine) - 107 Hollandaise - - ib. Saurnon (plain salmon) - - ib. au natural - - ib. Crimped Salmon au naturel - - 108 Saurnon en Matelote Mariniere - ib. a la Mazarine - - ib. Hollandaise - - ib. Cardinal - - ib. a l’Amiral - - 109 en Matelote Saxone - - ib. a la Beyrout - - ib. a la Pecheuse - - 110 a l’Ecaillfere - - ib. a la Creme d’Anchois - 1 J 1 au gratin a la Provenyale - ib. a la Creme (gratine) - - ib. Sole en Matelote Normande - ib. a u gratin - - - 112 a la Poltaise - - 113 a la Hollandaise - - ib. aux fines Herbes - - ib. a la Maitre d’Hotel - - ib. a l’ltalienne - - - 11 1 Soles plain fried - - - ib. Sole a la Colbert - - 115 Meuniere ... ib. Creme d’Anchois - ib. Filets de Soles en Matelote - - ib. au gratin - - 116 a la Maitre d’Hotel - ib. Hollandaise - ib. Italienne - - 117 en ltavigote - ib. a l’Orlie - - ib. a la Reforme - 118 aux Huitres (oy-ters) - ib. Cod-fish au naturel - - 119 Cabillaud aux Huitres (oysters) - ib. a la Bechamel - - ib. Collegienne - - ib. Noble Dame - 120 Stewed Cod a l’Ecossaise - - ib. Cabilluud entier a la Bourgeoise - ib. a la Rachel - - - 121 Slices of Cod a la Montefiore - ib. 4 TABLE OE CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Cabillaud a la Creme (gratine) - 121 Crabs 138 Provenyale ib. Muscles - ib. J uive - * ib. Oysters ... 139 Hollandaise 122 Salt Fish - - ib. Fresh-water Fish. Salt Cod a la Maitre d’Hotel ib. Salt Fish a la Bourgmestre * ib. Pike roasted - ib. Red Mallets a ITtalienne 123 a la Chambord * ib. a la Venitienne - ib. Pike en matelote ... 141 Ravigote ib. a la Hollandaise - - ib. Fillets of Mullets a la Montesquieu - 124 Small Pike a la Meuniere ib. a ITtalienne ib. Pike with caper sauce - ib. Venitienne - ib. a la Maitre d’Hotel - ib. sauce Ravigote ib. a l’Egyptienne - 142 a la Mazarine - ib. Fillets of Pike a la Maitre d’Hotel ib. Whitings, to fry them 125 en matelote - ib. Whiting au gratin ib. a la Meuniere 143 Whitings broiled - ib. Carpe en matelote - ib. a la Maitre d’Hotel - ib. a la Genoise ib. Fillets of Whitings fried 126 Stewed Carp a la Marquise - 144 a la Hollandaise - ib. Carp with caper sauce ib. a ITtalienne ib. Carp fried ... - ib. Whiting a l’Huile (oil) ib. Tench en matelote ib. Mackerel ... ib. a la Beyrout • 145 a la Maitre d’Hfitel - 127 Poulette ib. Fillets of Mackerel a la Dumas ib. sauce aux Moules (muscles) - ib. Mackerel au beurre noir (black butter) ib. fried or broiled ib. Fillets of Mackerel a la Venitienne 128 Perch a la Hollandaise - 146 Dublin Bay Haddock a la bonne Femme ib. Maitre d’H6tel ib. Dublin Bay Haddock, baked 129 Small Perches en water souchet - ib. Common Haddock, plain - ib. frits au beurre (fried in butter) ib. Haddock a la Maitre d’Hotel ib. Trout plain boiled - 147 Walter Scott • 130 Trout a la Maitre d’H6tel ib. Fillets of Haddock a la St. Paul ib. Genoise - . ib. Hollandaise - ib. Baked Trout ... ib. Gurnets and Pipers ib. Trout a la Beyrout - ib. Roast Gurnet - - 131 Fillets of Trout a la Mazarine 148 Fillets of Gurnets en matelote ib. Eels fried ... - ib. a la Maitre d’Hotel ib. a la Tartare ib. a ITtalienne ib. Spitchcocked Eels - ib. Herrings broiled, sauce Digon 132 Stewed Eels ... ib. plain boiled - ib. Eels en matelote • 149 Boiled Herrings a la Creme ib. Lampreys - ib. Skate plain boiled - ib. Crawfish ... - ib. au beurre noir (black butter) 133 a la Maitre d’Hotel - ib. hors-d’ceuvres, on dishes to be HANDED Smelts, to fry them ib. ROUND THE TABLE. a la Juive . 134 Boulangere - ib. Petits Vol-au-Vents a la Moelle de Atelettes d’Eperlans a la Menagere - ib. Bceuf (beef marrow) - - 151 Buisson d’Eperlans (smelts) ib. au laitance de Maquereau (mac- Flounders, water souchet . 135 kerel) - 152 a la Greenwich ib. au foie de Raie (skate liver) ib. plain fried - ib. aux Huitres (oysters) . - ib. broiled ib. de Homard (lobster) 153 Plaice ... - ib. Petites Bouch(es a la Moelle de Boeuf ib. Whitebait - 136 au laitance de Maquereau - ib. Sturgeon ... - ib. au foie de Raie ib. a la Chanceliere ib. aux Huitres . 154 de Homard - ib. Shell Fish. a la Reine - ib. puree de Volaille (of lowl) ib. Lobsters ... *■ 137 de Gibier (of game) - 155 TABLE OF CONTENTS. D PAGE Petites BoucMes a la puree de Gibier 155 Petits Pates a la Patissiere - - ib. aux Hultres a la Patissiere 156 de Homard a la Patissiere ib. of Shrimps or Prawns a la Patissiere - ib. Rissoles aux Hultres (oysters) - - ib. de Homard (lobster) - 157 of Shrimps - - - ib. de laitancesdeMaquereaux (mac¬ kerel) - - - 158 de Gibier (of game) - ib. de Volaille (of fowl) - - 159 Croustade de Beurre (butter) - ib. a la Duke of York 160 Croquettes de Homard (lobster) - ib. Aiguillettes de Ris deVeau (sweetbread) 161 (escalopes) aux Hultres (oysters) ib. de Homard (lobster) 162 de filets de Sole - - ib. aux Hultres (oysters) - ib. de Homard (lobster) - 163 de Sole - - ib. de Volaille a la jolie fille ib. REMOVES. Croustades of Bread for removes - 164 To obtain, lard, and dress a Fillet of Beef ib. Fillet of Beef £ la Jeanne d’Arc - 165 a la Beyrout - 166 aujus d’Orange - ib. au jus de Tomate - ib. a la Napolitaine - ib. Strasbourgienne - 167 Napolitaine - 168 Milanaise - - ib. Bohemienne - 169 Romaine - - 170 Stewed Rump of Beet a la Flamande 171 aux Oignons glaces (onions) 172 a la Voltaire - - ib. Portugaise - - 173 Jeanne d’Arc - - 174 Beyrout - - - ib. Macedoine de legumes (of vegetables) - - ib. sauce piquante (sharp) - ib. sauce tomate - - - 175 Stewed Sirloin of Beef - - ib. a la Printaniere - ib. Ribs of Beef a la Jean Bart - 176 Ox Tongues - - - 177 Loin of Veal a la Cambaceres - ib. Macedoine de legumes (of vege¬ tables) - - - 178 puree de Celeri - - ib. Strasbourgienne - - ib. Fillet of Veal a la Princiere - 179 Versaillienne - 180 Palestine Artichokes ib. Jardiniere - ib. Potagere - - 181 PAGE Fillet of Veal aux petits pois (peas) ib. Neck of Veal a la puree de celeri - ib. Rouennaise - 182 Milanaise - - ib. Bruxellaise - ib. Breast of Veal - - - 183 aux pois fins a l’Anglaise (peas) ib. a la puree de Celeri - - 184 sauce tomate - - ib. Calf’s Head - - - ib. au naturel - - 185 Half a Calf’s Head a la Luxembourg 186 Tete de Veau en Tortue (calf’ head) 187 Call’s Head a la Pottinger - 188 in currie - - ib. Saddle of Mutton a la Bretonne - 189 au Laver - - - ib. a la Polonaise - - ib. Marseillaise - - 190 rdti, braise, a la Mirabeau (roast, braised) ... 191 r6ti, braise, aux legumes glaces (vegetables) - - - ib. Haunch of Mutton - - ib. aujus de Groseilles (currantjelly) ib. a la Bretonne - - - 192 Polonaise - - - ib. Bohemienne - - » ib. aux legumes glaces (vegetables) 193 Leg of Mutton a la Bohemienne - ib. Bretonne - ib. au Laver - - ib. a la Proven£ale - ib. Gigot de Mouton de sept heures (seven hours) - - - - 193 Necks of Mutton a la Legumiere - 194 Bretonne - 195 Neck of Mutton a la Bohemienne 195 Proven 5 ale - ib. Charte - ib. Breast of Mutton panee, grillee, sauce piquante - - - 196 Saddle of Lamb aux petits pois a la S6vigne ib. a l’fndienne - - ib. Demi Proven$ale - 198 a la Menagere - ib. Haunch of Lamb - 109 Fore-quarter of Lamb a i’Hoteliere - ib. House Lamb aux pointes d’as- perges (sprue grass) - - ib. Ribs of Lamb a la Chanceliere - ib. Leg of Lamb a la St. John - - 200 aux pois (with peas) - ib. Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach - 201 a la Palestine ib. Roast Leg of Lamb a la Jardiniere - ib. Shoulder of Lamb a la Bruxellaise ib. Polonaise - ib. Pork. Leg of Pork sauce Robert - - 202 a la Piedmontaise ■ ib. 6 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Loin of Pork a la Bourguignote - 203 Langue de Bceuf a la Prima Donna 232 Neck of Pork a la Remoulade, a l’Indi- St. Aulaire ib. enne - 203 Jardiniere 233 a la Venitienne - ib. Milariaise ib. Roast Sucking Pig - 204 Westphalia Ham, small ib. Sucking Pig a la Savoyarde • ib. Loin of Veal a la Cambay6res 234 Turkey a la Nelson - 205 Cremiere ib. Godard - 206 Noix de Veau pique au Jus (knuckle of Cbipolata - 207 veal) .... ib. Small Turkey a la Duchesse - 208 a la Potagere 235 Poularde a PAmbassadrice - ib. Palestine - 236 Poulardes en Diademe - 210 aux legumes nouveaux (new vege¬ a la Vicomtesse - - 211 tables) ib. Jeanne d’Arc - ib. a la puree de Champignons (mush¬ Jeune Princesse - 212 rooms) ib. Financiere - 213 Prince Albert 237 Varsovienne - - ib. Neck of Veal a la St. Claire ib. aux legumes printaniers (spring Calf’s Head a la Constantine ib. vegetables) - - 214 Neck of Mutton demi Provenjale - 238 legumes verts (green ditto) 215 a la Soubise - ib. Petits Poulets a la Warenzorf - - ib. a l’Alg6rienr.e 239 P^rigord a blanc - - 216 a la Portugaise ib. Macedoine de legumes - 217 Loin of Mutton en Carbonade 240 a l’lndienne - ib. Carbonade de Mouton a la Bourguinote ib. au jus d’estragon (tarragon) 218 Saddle of Lamb a la Bonne Fermiere 241 a la Marie Stuart - ib. Shoulder of Lamb farci aux Truffles ib. Petits Poussins a la Chanoinaise - ib. a la Financiere 242 Petits Poulets a la Printaniere (spring puree de pois vert (of green peas) ib. chickens) - 219 Maitre d’Hotel ib. Tartare - - ib. Neck of Lamb aux legumes printaniers ib. Marechal - - 220 aux petits pois (with peas) ib. Goose a la Cbipolata - ib. a la Bruxellaise 243 stuffed with cbesnuts - - ib. Douariere - ib. a la Portugaise - 221 Maitre d’Hotel ib. Ducklings aux olives - - ib. Petits Poussins a la Moskovite (chicken) ib. au jus d’orange (orange- juice) ib. Ecarlate - 244 aux legumes printaniers Palestine 245 (spring vegetables) - ib. Venitienne ib. a la Chartres - ib. Prince Albert - ib. Haunch of Venison - ib. au jus d’Estragon (tarragon) 246 Doe Venison a la Corin- a la Chevaliere ib. thienne - . 223 Marengo - 247 Necks of Doe Venison a la Corinthienne 224 Ducklings aux petits pois au lard (with Necks of Venison a la Bohemienne ib. peas) ib. Faisans a la Corsaire (pheasants) - ib. au jus d’Orange 248 Garde Chasse - - 225 Faisans a la Fontainbleau - ib. truffes a la Piemontaise - 226 a la puree de Gibier (game) - 249 a l’Extravagante - - ib. truffes a la Piemontaise ib. Grouse a la Rob Roy - - 228 a l’Amiral ... 250 Corsaire - ib. Grouse .... ib. Piemontaise - ib. Chartreuse de Perdreaux (of partridges) ib. Garde Chasse - - ib. de Perdreaux a l’Imperial 251 Of Black Cocks and Gfay Hens - 229 de Perdreaux a la Moderne 252 Hare a la Macgregor - ib. Perdreaux a la Mecklenbourg ib. Levraut a la Coursiere (leveret) - ib. puree de Gibier (of game) 253 truffes a la Perigord ib. PL.4NCS. Levraut sauce poivrade (leveret) ib. au jus de groseilles - 254 Fillet of Beef pique aux legumes prin- Lapereaux a la Taverniere (rabbits) ib. taniers (spring vegetables) - 230 Jardiniere 255 Filet de Bceuf au jus de groseilles - 231 aux petits pois (peas) ib. Fillet of Beef a la Beyrout - ib. a la Villageoise ib. Langue de Boeuf a la Marquise (ox- Bourgmestre 256 tongue) - ib. Anglaise ib. TABLE OF CONTENTS 7 PAGE Pate chaud d’Agneau (lamb) - 256 de Mouton a l’lrlandaise - 257 d’Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf ib. d’Escalopes de Veau et de His de Veau - - 258 de Volaille (fowl) - ib. Pigeonneaux - - 259 Lapereau (rice) - 260 Vol-au-vent - - - - ib. Casserole de Riz (rabbits) - ib. aux queues d’Agneau (lambs’tails) 261 queues de Veau (calves’ ditto) ib. pieds d’Agneau (lambs’ feet) ib. pieds de Mouton (sheep’s ditto) 262 a la Napolitaine - ib. Polonaise a la Koroski 263 a la Royale - - ib. Chevaliere - 264 ENTREES. Of Beef for Entrees - Escalopes de Filet de Bceuf a la Reforme Gotha Portugaise Nemours - Ostende pique alaChasseur Other Entrees of Fillets of Beef Aiguillette de Langue de Bceuf en papil- lote (ox-tongue) Turban de Langue de Bceuf a l’Ecarlate Langue de Bceuf a la Jardiniere Langue de Bceuf, sauce piquante Queues de Bceuf aux navets au brun (turnips) a la Jardiniere Queues de Bceuf (ox-tails) sauce aux cornichons (gherkins) Queues de Bceuf en Currie a la Sicilienne Marseillaise - To prepare and dress Palates of Beef - Palates de Bceuf a la Ravigote Atelettes de Palates de Bceuf - Palates de Boeuf a la Vivandiere - Turban de Palate de Boeuf au gratin - Vol-au-vent de Palates de Bceuf Palates de Bceuf en Papillote - Turban de Tete de Veau en Tortue (calf’s head) ... a la Maitre d’Hotel - Hollandaise Poulette Indienne - - - Oreilles de Veau farci (calves’ ears) en Marinade Langues de Veau aux Champignons (calves’ tongues with mushrooms) Calves’ Brains - - Queues de Veau a la Ravigote (calves’ tails) - a la Poulette 266 ib. 267 268 ib. 269 270 ib. 271 272 ■ ib 273 ib. 274 274 ib. 275 ib. ib. 276 277 ib. 278 ib. ib. 279 ib. 280 ib. ib. 281 ib. ib. 282 ib. 283 PAGE Of Sweetbreads ... 283 Ris de Veau a la Santa Cruz (calf’s sweetbread) - - - ib. piqu6 a la Turque - 284 pique a la Financiere - 285 pique a la puree d’Asperges ib. roti (roasted) - - ib. Caisse de Ris de Veau a la Ninon de l’Enclos - 286 Escalopes de Ris de Veau au supreme ib. aux pointes d’Asperges 287 a l’lndienne - ib. en caisses - - ib. Atelettes de Ris de Veau - - 288 Blanquette de R is de Veau aux truffes ib. Vol-au-vent de Ris de Veau - 289 Of Tendrons de Veau (of veal) - ib. Tendrons de Veau a la Noble Dame ib. a la Dauphine - 290 Cotelettes deVeau piques aux petits pois (with peas) - - - ib. Cotelettes de Veau en Papillote - 291 a la Sans Fayon - ib. Noix de Veau for Entrees - - 292 Grenadins de Veau pique aux racines nouvelles (young vegetables) • ib. Of Veal Kidneys - - - ib. Veal Kidueys en Caisses - - 293 Boudin de Veau a la Legumiere - ib. a la Richelieu - 294 Of Mutton for Entrees - - ib. Cotelettes de Mouton a la Reforme - ib. Vscomtesse - 295 Westphalienne 296 Provenyale - 297 Bohdmienne ib. Soubise - 298 Durcelie - ib. aux petites racines - - 299 sauce piquante (sharp) - ib. a la Jardiniere - - ib. aux champignons (mushrooms) ib. aux navets au brun (turnips) - ib. Cotelettes de Mouton a la Palestine 300 aux pointes d’asperges (aspara¬ gus points) - - ib. aux haricots verts (French beans) 301 petits pois (peas) - - ib. choufleurs (cauliflowers) - ib. truffes - - - ib. a la Maintenon - - 302 sauce Temoulade - ib. a la Financidre - - ib. Maitre d’Hotel - 303 Hollandaise - - ib. panee,grilld (crumbed, broiled) ib. Of Cotelettes braised - 304 Cotelettes de Mouton braisees a la Mar¬ seillaise - - - ib. Carbonade of Mutton - 305 Poitrine de Mouton sauce piquante (breast of mutton) - - - ib. Rognons de Mouton a la brochette (sheeps’ kidneys - - - - ib. 8 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Rognons a la Tart are - - 306 de Mouton a la Venitienne - ib. sautes au vin de champagne ib. Pieds de Mouton a la Poulette (sheep’s feet) .... 30t Pjeds de Mouton a la puree d’oignons ib. Entries of Lamb. Pieds d’Agneau (lambs’ feet) - - ib. farcis (stuffed) - 308 en marinade - - ib. cartouche - ib. Oreilles d’Agneau a la 13elle Fermiere (lambs’ ears) - 309 Oreilles d’Agneau a la Marquise - ib. Ravigote - 310 Maitre d’Hotel ib. en marinade - ib. farcis - - ib. Queues d’Agneau a laCremiere (lambs’ tails) - - - - 311 Langue d’Agneau a la Persane - ib. Lambs’Brains a l’lnnocent * - 312 Lamb’s Fry - - - ib. Ris d’Agneau aux petits pois (lamb’s sweetbread) - - - 313 Ris d’Agneau a la Cambajeres - ib. aux concombres (cucumbers) 314 a la Madone - - ib. Epigramme d’Agneau aux haricots verts (beans) - - - - 315 Epigramme d’Agneau aux petits pois (peas) ib. concombres 316 a l’Ancienne - ib. Cotelettes d’Agneau aux petits pois ib. pointesd’asperges (asparagus tops) 317 haricots verts (beans) - - ib. aux racines glac^es - - ib. jeunesoignons (young onions) - 318 a la Palestine - - - ib. Vicomtesse - - ib. pur 6 e de truffes - - 319 puree de champignons (mushrooms) ib. puree d’artichauts - - ib. farcis aux truffes - - 320 farcis aux champignons - ib. Blanquette d’Agneau (lamb) - 321 Croquettes d’Agneau - - ib. Entrees of Pork. Cotelettes de Pore a l’Indienne ■ 322 sauce remoulade ib. a la Siamoise - ib. Bolognaise 323 Jeune France ib. Filets de Pore a l’Hanov 6 rienne - 324 Escalopes de Pore a la Lyonnaise - ib. Langue de Pore demi sale (pig’s tongue) 325 Doe Venison, or Chevreuil. Cotelettes de Chevreuil a la Bohemienne 325 sautes sauce poivrade 326 PAGE Minced Chevreuil - - 326 Of the Wild Boar - 327 Of Venison for Entrees - - ib. Cotelettes de Venaison en demi-glace ib. aux olives - - 328 au jus de groseilles (cur¬ rant jelly) - - ib. Hashed Venison - - - ib. Venison Pie - - - ' 329 Entries of Poultry. Turkeys. Estomac de Dinde a la Turenne - 329 Jeune Comtesse 330 Escalopes de Dinde en blanquette ib. a la Belle Fermiere 331 Emincee de Dinde a Pltalienne - ib. Blanquette de Dinde au Jarnbon (ham) ib. Filets de Poulardes a l’Ambassadrice 332 Marie Stuart ib. Talma - 333 Russe - 334 Pierre le Grand 335 Dumas - 336 Blanc de Poularde aux concombres (cu¬ cumbers) . . . . ib. Cuisses de Poulardes a la Talleyrand de Perigord - 337 au Soleil - 338 a 1’Ecaillere - ib. farcis aux petits legumes (vegetables) - 339 en fricassee a I’Hoteliere ib. a la Bayonnaise - 340 Entrees of Spring Chickens, Pullets, Fowls, &c. - ib. Filets de Volaille a la Sevignd (fowl) 341 Neva - - ib. saute au Supreme 342 aux truffes - - ib. a la Bechamel 343 aux champignons (mushrooms) ib. a la Bechamel ib. Filets de Poulet a l’Ambassadrice - ib. a la Strasbourgienne - 344 Filets de Volaille a la Duchesse - ib. Epigramme de Filets de Volaille a la Josephine - 345 Filets de Volaille aux concombres (cu¬ cumbers) - - - - ib. Fricassee de Poulet a la Chevaliere - ib. Ancienne 347 Spring' Chickens. Petits Poulets Printaniers sautes aux truffes (spring chickens) - - ib. Poulet Printanier braise a la Financiere 348 Petits Poulets Printaniers sauce remou¬ lade (chaude) - - - ib TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9 tage Poulet Printanier grille anx champig¬ nons confits (pickled mushrooms) 349 Cuisses de Volaille (ruffes a la Perigord ib. a la Dino - - 350 braise nux concombres (cucumbers) - ib. braise aux pois (peas) ib. en fricassee a I’An- cienne - - 351 a la Marengo - ib. Poulet a la Provenyale - - ib. Turban de Quenelles de Volaille a la Russe ... - 352 Quenelles de Volaille a l’Ecarlate ib. aux concombres - ib. en demi deuil 353 a la York Minster 354 Pair de France ib. Silene - ib. Boudins de Volaille a la Richelieu 355 Sully - ib. Croquettes de Volaille aux truffes 350 au Jambon (with ham) ib. Rissolettes de Volaille a la Pompadour 357 Filets de Canetons aux petits pois (ducklings with peas) - - 358 Filets de Canetons a la chicoree (with ib. endive) - - - - ib. Filets de Canetons a la macedoine de legumes (vegetables) - - ib. aujus d’Orange 359 farcis - - ib- Entries of Game. Hares. Filets de Lievre sauce Reforme (hare) - 360 pique sauce poivrade ib. a la Bourguignote ib. marine en denii- glace - 361 Escalopes de Lievre a la Chasseur ib. Cotelettes de Lievre a la Dauphine 362 Turban de Lievre a la Peronne - ib. Rabbits. Filets de Lapereau a la Valenciennes (rabbit)- - 363 Ecarlate ib. Turban de Lapereau a la Douariere 364 Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau - ib. Filets de Lapereau a la Musulmane 365 Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites ra¬ rities - - - ib. Lapereau saute aux truffes - ib. a la Marengo 366 Rabbit Currie - - - ib. Fricassee de Lapereau - - ib. Pheasants. Faisans au veloute de Gibier (pheasants) 367 a la puree de Gibier - ib. Filets de Faisans a la Comte de Brabant 368 PAGE Filets de Faisans piques aux legumes (vegetables) ... 368 Turban de Faisans en salmi - ib. Filets de Faisans a la Marquise - 369 Maintenon ib. Turban de Quenelles de Faisans - 370 Grouse. Grouse a la Commodore - - ib. Filets de Grouse a la Paoli - - 37 J Chanceliere ib. Salmi de Grouse aux truffes - 372 Grouse a la Ailsa - - - ib. Turban de Quenelles de Grouse a la Moderne ... 373 Partridges. Perdreaux a la Silene (partridges) - ib. grilles a la puree de Gibier 374 anx choux (cabbage) - ib. Chartreuses de Perdreaux - - ib. Filets de Perdreaux aux petits legumes 375 a la Florentine ib. Cotelettes de Perdreaux a la Bacchante ib. Douariere 376 Due de Chartres ib. Epigramme de Perdreaux a l’essence de Gibier - - 377 aux Champignons (mushrooms) ib. Turban des Filets de Perdreaux a la Perigord - - - ib. Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux a la Berri . . . ib. Wild Ducks. Filets de Canetons Sauvages a l’essence (wild ducklings) - 378 Syrienne - ib. au jus d’Orange - 379 au fumee de Gibier ib. Salmi de Canetons Sauvages aux truffes ib. Filets de Canetons Sauvages a la puree de Grouse - - - ib. Teal. Turban de Filets de Sarcelles a la Mo¬ derne - 380 Turban de Sarcelles a la Toulouse ib. Sarcelles au jus d’Orange (teal) - ib. a la Bateliere - - 381 macedoine de legumes ib. puree de champignons (mushrooms) - ib. Woodcocks. Filets de Becasses a la Lucullus - 382 Talleyrand ib. Imperial - 383 4 ? 10 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Turban de Becasses aux champignons 383 Salmi de Becasses (woodcocks) - ib. a la Joinville - ib. Entree de Becasses a la Comtesse 384 Becasses a la Perigord - - ib. a l’essence - 3S5 a la Financiere - - ib. puree - - - ib. Snipes or Becassines - - ib. Plovers. Plovers - - - - ib. Filets de Pluviers a la Marie Antoinette ib. aux truffes - - 386 aux champignons (mushrooms) ib. Filets de Pluviers a la Regence - ib. Pate chaud des Pluviers - - 387 Quails. Quails ib. Cailles en macedoine de legumes aux feuilles de vignes (vine leaves) - ib. aux petits pois (peas) - 388 Turban des Cailles a la Financiere - ib. aux concombres ib. a la puree de truffes 389 Quails for Vol-au-vents, or Pate chaud ib. Pigeons. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux a la Pari- sienne (pigeons) - - ib. a la Financiere ib. aux pois verts - ib. a la Suliman 390 Larks. Turban of Larks a la Parisienne - ib. aux fine herbes - 391 aux quenelles - ib. Pate chaud de Mauviettes (larks) - ib. gratines - ib. Vol-au-vent de Mauviettes - 392 OF THE ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey au cresson (watercress) 395 Turkey Barded - 396 Larded - - - ib. Dindonneau truffe a la Perigord (turkey) ib. farci - - - ib. Roast Turkey a PAnglaise - ib. Turkey Poults - - - ib. Chapon roti au cresson (with watercress) 398 Poularde a la Demidoff - - ib. roti a la Staiel - - 399 Poulet roti (roasted) - - ib. Spring Chickens - - ib. a la Forrester ib. Geese .... 400 PAGE Ducklings - 400 Canetons au vin de Madere - ib. Becasses a la Perigord - - ib. au jus d’orange - - 401 dechalote - ib. Guinea Fowls - - - - ib. Pea Fowls - ib. Pigeons .... 402 Quails - - - - ib. Cailles a l’Eloise - - - ib. Pheasants ... 403 Faisans a la Galitziue - - - ib. Grouse .... 403 a la Bonny Lassie - - ib. Ptarmigans ... 401 Ptarmigan a la Charles the Twelfth - ib. Black Cocks and Gray Hens - 405 Partridges - - - - ib. Dun Birds - ib. Wild Ducks and Pintails - - ib. a la Chasseur - - 406 Widgeons - - ib. Teal - - - - ib. au jus d’orange - - 407 Plovers - - - - ib. Of the Woodcock - - ib. Woodcocks a la Stiiel - - 408 fumee de Gibier ib. Piedmontaise - ib. Larks - - - - ib. Snipes .... 409 Hares ..... ib. Leverets ib. Rabbits - - - - ib. SAVOURY DTSHES FOR SECOND COURSE. The Boar’s Head - - - 410 Of the Boar’s Head a 1’Antique - 411 Ribs of Beef a la George the Fourth 413 Bolingbroke - 415 froid a la Bohe'mienne ib. Filets de Boeuf farcis a la Dr. Johnson 416 Cold Ox Tongues - - - 417 Tongue a la Lancret - - 418 Prmtaniere - ib. Comedienne - - ib. Cold Ham - - - - 419 Fillet of Veal a la Pontoise - ib. Cardinale - - 420 Loin of Veal au Jambon - - ib. Dame Blanche - 421 Galantine de Veau au Jambon - ib. Pat6 de Veau au Jambon - • 422 Cotelettes de Veau a la St. Garat - 423 Princesse 424 Ris de Veau a la Chinoise - - ib. Cotelettes de Mouton braise aux navets 425 Turban de Cotelettes de Mouton a la Fermiere - - - - ib. Carbonade de Mouton - - 425 Ballottins d’Agneau a la de Bazan - 426 a la Catalanaise - - ib. TABLE OF PAGE Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Gelee - 427 i'roid a la Princesse ib. Galantine de Dinde - - ib. aux foies gras - 428 a la Voliere - ib. Pate de Dinde au blanc de Yolaille - 429 Galantine de Poularde a la Persane 430 Pate de Yolaille aux Truffes - - 431 Poulardes a la Mazagran - - ib. a la Banquiere - - 432 Poulets Printaniers a la Santa Cruz (spring chickens) 433 a la Princesse Royale (ditto) ib. Poularde a la Guillaume Tell (capon) ib. Chaud froid de Poularde - - 434 a la Pembroke 435 en mayonnaise - ib. Filets de Poulardes a la Nesselrode ib. Ravigote - 436 Petits Canetons en aspic (duckling) ib. Salade de Yolaille (fowl) - - 437 Salade de Filets de Poularde a la Brunow ib. Poulets Printaniers a la Masaniello (spring chickens) - - 438 Moule d’Aspic a la Royale (mould) ib. Galantine de Faisan aux Truffes (phea¬ sants) - - 439 Faisans a la Voliere - ib. Pate de Faisans aux Truffes - ib. Filets de Faisans a la Prince George - 440 Chaud froid de Filets de Faisans - ib. Grouse .... 44 ] Galantine de Grouse a la Montagnard ib. Salade de Grouse a la Soyer - - ib. Perdreaux a la Downshire (partridges) 412 Galantine de Perdreaux a la Voliere (partridges) ... 443 Pate de Perdreaux (ditto) - ib. Becasses a la d’Orleans (woodcocks) - ib. Pate froid de Mauviettes (cold) - 444 Salade de Hornard a l’lndienne - 445 Mayonnaise de Hornard a la gelee ib. Miroton de Hornard a la Cardinale (lobster) - - - ib. Hornard en Aspic (ditto) - - 446 Hornard au gratin (ditto) - - ib. Crabs - - - - - 447 Coquilles aux Huitres (oysters) - ib. Salade de Filets de Soles - - ib. Filets de Soles aux Concombres - 448 Truites marinees en mayonnaise (trout) ib. Dame de Saumon marinee (slice of salmon) - - ib. Galantine d’Anguille (eels) - - 449 .VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE. Asparagus ... - 450 Asperges en petits pois (ditto with peas) ib. Sea- Kale - - - - 451 Celeri a la Moelle de Bceuf (marrow) ib. Celeri a la Chetwynd - • 452 Salsifis a la Poulette - - - ib. CONTENTS. 11 PAGE Salsifis a la Moelle de Bceuf (marrow) 453 Fried Salsifis - - - ib. Concombres farcis en demi-glace - ib. a la creme - 454 Croustade aux Concombres - - ib. Vegetable Marrows - - ib. Jerusalem Artichokes - - 455 Cauliflowers and Brocoli - - ib. Choufleurs au Parmesan (cauliflowers) 456 Artichokes - - - ib. a la Barigoule - - 457 Arlichauts a la Bordelaise - ib. a l’ltalienne - - 458 au Veloute - - ib. a la Bruxellaise - - 459 Peas ib. au sucre Anglo-Fran 9 ais - 460 a la Franfaise - ib. French Beans - - - - 461 sautes au beurre (butter) ib. aux fines herbes - ib a la Poulette - - ib. Brussels Sprouts sautes au beurre - 462 a la Maitre d’Hotel ib a la Creme en turban de Concombres - ib. Spinach - - - - 463 aujus - - - ib a la Francaise - - ib. au sucre (sugar) - - 461 Endive aujus - - - ib. Sorrel- - - - - ib. Laitues braisee a la Pensionnaire (lettuces) 465 farcis - - - ib. Feves de Marais (Windsor beans) - 466 White Haricots (beans) - - ib. Haricots blancs a la Bretonne - 467 a la Maitre d’Hotel ib. Tomates au gratin - - - ib. a la Piemontaise - - 468 Mushrooms plain broiled - - ib. farcis - - - ib. Croute aux champignons - - ib. Young Carrots in their glaze - 469 Young Turnips in their glaze - - ib. Oignons Printaniers au Sirop doree (spring onions) - - ib. Macedoine de Legumes Printaniercs (spring vegetables) - - ib. Pornmes de Terre a la Maitre d’Hotel (potatoes) - 470 sautees au beurre - ib. a la Lyonnnaise ib. Lentilles - - - - 471 a la Comte au riz (rice) - ib. Truffles - 472 Truffes au vin de Champagne - ib. Croute aux Truffes - - - 473 Truffes en croustade a Fltalienne - ib. demi Piemontaise - - ib. a la Dino - 474 Omelette aux fines herbes - - ib. au Jambon (ham) - ib 12 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Omelette aux Traffes • - - 475 aux Champignons(mushrooms) ib. aux Olives - - ib. a la Jardiniere - - ib. aux Huitres (oysters) - ib. aux filets de Soles - - 476 aux Monies (muscles) - ib. de Homard (lobster) - ib. au Sucre (sugar) - ib. au Confiture (preserve) - ib. au Rhum - - 477 ENTREMETS. Observations upon Pastry - 478 Of different sorts of Paste - • ib Puff Paste - - - - 479 with Beef Suet - - 480 Half Puff Paste - - - ib. Pate a dresser - - - 481 fine or Pate a foncer - - ib. d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste 482 d’Amande (almond) - - ib. Pastillage or Gum Paste - - 483 Vol-au-vents - - - • ib. de Peches (peach) - 484 d’Abricots - - 485 of Greengages - ib. de Cerises (cherries) - ib. de Poires (pears) - ib. de Pornmes (apples) - 486 d’Oranges - - ib. Gateau de Millefeuille a la Moderne (cake) - - - - ib. Turban a la Creme aux Macarons arners 487 Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes (well) ... ib. Gateau de Pithiviers (cake) - - 488 Tourte d’Ent.remet a la Creme - 489 Marmelade de Pornmes (apples) ib. au Confiture (preserve) - - 490 Tartelettes pralinees aux Abricots ib. de Peches (peaches) - 491 aux Cerises (cherries) - ib. aux Groseilles vertes (green gooseberries) - - ib of Greengages - - ib. aux Fraises (strawberries) ib. de Pornmes (apples) - 492 de Poires (pears) - - ib. of Cranberries - - ib. d’Oranges - - 493 Fauchonettes a la Vanille - - ib. Dauphines - 494 Tartelettes a la Pompadour - ib. Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange - ib. aux Amandes - - 495 au Citron - - - ib. Petits Vol-au-vents a la Chantilly (small) ib. aux Abricots - ib. a la Gelee mousseuse 496 Petits Puits aux Pistachios - ib. Gateau fourre a la Creme - - ib. PAGE Gateau fourre au Confiture (preserve) 497 ou d’Artois, aux Pornmes (apples) ib. Anglo-Franjais - - ih. Petits au Confiture (small) - 498 (round) Petits - - ib. Petits aux Amandes - - 499 Petits Meringue - - ib. Patisserie d’Amandes a la Conde - ib. Turban de Conde a la Rhubarbe - 500 Petits Gateaux d’Abricots - - ib. renverses - - ib. Petites Bouchees a la Patissiere - 501 Eventail aux Cerises (cherries) ib. Petits Gateaux a la Royale - - ib. A Flan of Puff Paste - - 592 de Pornmes a la Portugaise (apples) - - - ib. Poires (pears) - - 503 Flanc a la Creme pralinee - - ib. Pate a Cboux - - - 504 Petits Choux a la Creme - - ib. aux Amandes - ^ - ib. a la Comtesse » 505 en Gimblettes - - ib. Petits Pains a la Cremiere - ib. Madeline au vin de Porto - - 506 Genoises ib. fourrees - - - ib. a l’Orange - - 507 aux Pistaches - - ib. Darioles - ib. Biscatelles - - - - 508 Gateaux a PIndienne (cakes) - ib. Gauffres aux Pistaches - - ib. it l’Allemande - - 509 a la Vanille - - - ib. Flamande - - ib. Casalesry - - 510 Red Nougat - - - ib. Small Cups of Nougat - - 511 Nougat d’Abricot (apricot) - ib. Chataignes Croquantes (crisp chesnuts) 512 Amandes Croquantes - - ib. Meringues a la Cuilliere - - ib. Turban de Meringues - - 513 glace (iced) 514 Petits Meringues aux Pistaches - ib. Champignons en surprise - - ib. Biscuit manque aux Amandes - 515 au Rhum - - ib. Calf’s Foot Jelly - 516 Gelee de Dantzic aux Fraises (straw¬ berries) - 518 Maresquin aux Peches - ib. Noyeau aux Abricots - 519 Macedoine aux Fruits de belle saison - - ib. Bordure de Poires en gelee (pears) - 520 Gelee au Rhum - - - ib. Mousseuse a l’Eau de Vie - ib. demie chaude froide marbree 521 fouettee aux Fruits - - ib. a l’Ananas - - ib. TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 PAGE Orange Jelly - 522 in the skins of the oranges ib. Gelee de Fraises (strawberries) - 523 d’Abricots ... ib. a la Bacchante - - ib. de Fleurs d’Orange au vin de Champagne - - - 524 Pain de Fruit a la Russe - - ib. Creme a la Vanille - - - ib. aux Pistaches - - 525 a l’Ananas (pine-apples) - 526 aux Amandes - - ib. d’Orange - - - ib au Fraises (strawberries) - 527 d’Abricots - - - ib. au Ponche (punch) - ib. au Maresquin - - - 528 Noyeau - - - ib. Cafe - - - ib. Caramel - - ib. Bavaroise aux Fraises (strawberries) - 529 Framboises (raspberries) ib. Abricots - - ib. Poires - 530 Pommes (apples) - ib. Pistaches - - ib. a l’Ananas (pine-apples) 531 Maresquin - - ib. Ponche(punch) - ib. Charlotte Russe ... 532 Prussienne - - ib. Russe en mosaique - - ib. Russe aux liqueurs - 533 aux Fraises (strawberries) - ib. Gateaux aux Fruits de belle saison ib. Charlotte de Pommes an Beurre - 534 a la Confiture (preserves) 535 Chartreuse de Pommes (apples) - ib. Suedoise de Pommes (do.) - - 536 Pain de Pommes a la Russe - ib. Croquettes de Pommes - - ib. Pommes au Riz ... 537 Poires au Riz (pears) - - - ib. Abricots au Riz - - - 538 Pommes au Riz en Timbale (apples) - ib. a la Trianon - - ib. Pommes Meringuees ... 539 a la Vestale - - ib. au Beurre (butter) - - 540 Miroton de Pommes - - ib. Beignets de Pommes - - - 541 d’Oranges - - ib. de Peches (peaches) - - 542 d’Abricots - - ib. Croquettes de Riz (rice) - - ib. Creme au Riz - 543 Macaroni - - ib. Vermicelle - - ib. Creme Frite a la Patissiere - - ib. Beignets Souffles a la Vanille - 544 Frangipane .... ib. Omelettes a la Celestine - - 545 Pannequets a la Confiture (preserve) ib. REMOVES. SECOND COURSE. PAGE Gateau Britannique a l’Amiral - 548 Hure de Sanglier glace en surprise (boar’s head) .... 549 Cygne glace en surprise (swan) - 550 Jambon glace en surprise (ham) - 551 Gigot de mouton bouilli glacd en sur¬ prise (leg of mutton) - - 552 Selle de Mouton a la Jardiniere en surprise (saddle) - 553 Cotelettes de Mouton glace en surprise ib. Haunch of Lamb glace en surprise - 554 Shoulder of Lamb glact; en surprise ib. Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Reforme en surprise aux Champignons (mush¬ rooms) .... 555 Chaponen surprise glace aux Fruits - ib. Petits Poussins en surprise a la Suther¬ land .... 556 Dindonneau en surprise a la Gondoliere ('turkey) - - - 557 Peacock a la Louis Quatorze - 558 Faisans en surprise glace au Chocolat ib. Maniveau de Champignons glace en surprise ... - 559 Turban de Conde glace a l’Ananas 560 Bombe demi glace a la Mogador - ib. Cerito’s Sultane Sylphe a la Fille de l’Orage - - - - 561 Gateau glace a l’Eloise (cake) - ib. Biscuit Mousseux glac 6 , en caisse (in cases) - - - - ib. Souffle glace au Curajoa - 563 Ponding Souffle glace a la Mephisto- pheles - - - - ib. Brioche .... 534 Baba ... 595 Brioche au Fromage - - 566 frite au vin de Madere - ib. Nougat aux Fraises (strawberries) 567 Croque en bouche ... 568 Meringue Pagodatique a la Chinoise 569 a la Parisienne - - 571 Nesselrode Pudding - - ib. Pouding de Cabinet glace - - 572 Glace Meringue au four - - ib. Plombiere - - - - 573 Plombieres Mousseuses a l’Orange ib. Gateaux de Fruit a la Gelee d’Orange mousseuse (frothed) - - 574 Gateau Souffle a l’Essence de Ponche ib. Of large Souffles for Removes. Souffle a la Vanille ... 575 Fleur d’Orange (orange-flower) 576 au Cafe vierge (green coffee) - ib. a la Creme de Riz (ground rice) ib. au Citron ... ib. Souffle au Macaroni - - 576 Tapioca - - 67 7 Rhum - - ib. Omelette Soufflee - 578 14 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Omelette Souffl6e a l’Antiquaire - 578 a la Creme - 579 Souffle au Gingembre (ginger) - ib. Cerises (cherries) - - ib. jus d’Orange et au Zeste pra¬ line (burnt orange-peel) ib. Biscuits Souffles a la Creme - 580 Fondue au Parmesan et Gruyere - ib. a la Napolitaine - - 581 Petites au Pate d’ltalie - ib. (simple method) - - ib. Petites (en caisses) au Stilton (in cases) ... 582 Ramequins - - - ib. Petits Ramequins au feuilletage - ib. Diablotins au Grujere - - 583 Croquettes de Macaroni au Fromage ib. APPENDIX. Aspic - - - - Mayonnaise a la gelee aux fines herbes en Ravigote verte ordinaire a la Proven 5 ale - Montpelier Butter Forcemeat for raised pies of Liver for game pies - Sponge cake - - - Savoy Cake in mould Biscuits To clarify Isinglass Glace Royale or Iceing Chocolate Iceing 585 - 587 ib. - ib. 588 - 589 ib. - ib. 590 - ib. 591 - 592 592 - 593 ib. PAGE Sugar in grains - - - 593 To colour Sugar in grains - ib. Vanilla Sugar ... 594 Lemon Sugar - - - ib. To clarify and boil Sugar - - ib. Sucre file (sugar threads) - 596 Ice Cream Vanilla - - - 597 Coffee - - 598 Chocolate - - ib. Pineapple - - ib. Lemon ... 599 Orange - - ib. Apricot - - - ib. Strawberry - - 600 Marmalade Apple - - - ib. Apricot - - 601 Quince - - ib. Apricot (transparent) ib. Cherry - - 602 Strawberry - - ib. Raspberry - - ib. Jelly Apple .... 603 Quince - - - ib. Currant and Raspberry - ib. Currant ... 604 To preserve Tomatas - - ib. Table of the W ealthy. Service Pagodatique - - 606 Bill of fare (diner pour dix personnes) 607 Diner Lucullusian a la Sampayo - 608 Bill of fare (Reform Club) - 609 Dialogue Culinaire between Lord M— H— and A. Soyer - -611 Description of Kitchen of the Reform Club, with sectional and ground plan, and numerous apparatus - 613 END OF CONTENTS TO THE KITCHEN OF THE WEALTHY. MY KITCHEN AT HOME. PAGE MADE DISHES. My Table at Home. PAGE Prefatory Address _ 631 French Pot-au-feu - - 649 Reference to Plan of Mv Kitchen at Home - _ 632 SOUPS. Plan of My Kitchen at Home _ _ 633 Julienne Soup ... _ _ 652 Reference to Plans of Bachelors’ and Mutton Broth ... - _ 653 Cottage Kitchens _ _ 634 Irish Mutton Broth _ _ ib. Plan of the Bachelor’s Kitchen - . 635 A very simple receipt for the Scotch Cottage Kitchen - - ib. Cock-a-Leeky - - ib. Bill of Fare for Eight Persons - - 636 Ox-tail Soup ... . . ib. Ox-cheek Soup - _ 654 New Mock Turtle Soup _ ib. PLAIN JOINTS. Brown Mock Turtle Soup _ - ib. Of the Choosing and Roasting of Plain Mulligatawny Soup - * 655 Joints ... _ _ 637 Giblct Soup - - - - - ib. Sirloin of Beef - 639 Green Pea Soup - - - - ib. Ribs of Beef ... 640 Winter Pea Soup - - ib. Rump of Beef ... ib. Puree of Vegetable Soup - 656 Baron of Beef 641 Maigre Soup - - - ib. Round of Beef ... ib. Onion Soup Maigre - ib. Aitch-bone of Beef 643 Vermicelli Soup - - ib. Brisket of Beef ... _ _ ib. Macaroni Soup - ib. a la Garrick _ _ ib. Haunch of Mutton _ _ ib. FISH. Soyer's Saddle-hack of Mutton _ 644 Turbot .... . _ 656 Saddle of Mutton _ _ 645 Turbot, the new French Fashion - 657 Jjeg of Mutton _ - ib. a la Creme - _ ib. Shoulder of Mutton _ _ ib. John Doree, Boulogne Fashion - - ib. Loin of Mutton _ - ib. Salmon Plain Boiled - - ib. Neck of Mutton . . ib. Sauce Matelote - - ib. Boiled Leg of Mutton _ . ib. Cod Fish Plain Boiled - - - ib. Shoulder of Mutton - _ _ 646 sauced over with Oyster Sauce ib. Saddle-back of Welsh Mutton - _ ib. Haddocks ... - - 658 Haunch do. _ . ib. Baked Haddocks - - - ib. Saddle do. _ _ ib. Soles, Fried ... - - ib. Leg do. - - ib. the Jewish Fashion - - ib. Loin do. _ - ib. Sole a la Meuniere - - ib. Neck do. - - ib. aux Fines Herbes - - - ib. Shoulder do. - - ib. Fried Whiting - - - ib. Jjamb - - - ib. Whiting au Gratin - - ib. Fillet of Veal - - _ 647 Red Mullets ... - - 659 Loin of Veal - . ib. Mackarel .... - - ib. Breast of Veal - - ib. a la Maitre d’Hotel - - ib. Shoulder of Veal - - - - . 648 Gurnets - - - ib. Neck of Veal - - - ib. Boiled Gurnet ... - - ib. Knuckle of Veal - - - - - ib. Herrings boiled with Cream Sauce - ib. Leg of Pork - . - ib. Skate - - - ib. .Salt Pork - - - - ib. Flounders - “ 660 16 TABLE OF FRESH WATER FISH. PAGE Pike . 660 Sauce Matelote - - - - ib. Stewed Carp - - - - - ib. Carp, Sauce Matelote - - - - ib. Truite a la Twickenham - - - 661 Burton - - - - ib. Tench, Sauce Matelote ... ib. with Anchovy Butter - - - ib. Perch fried in Butter - - - ib. Hampton Court Fashion - - ib. Eels Fried.662 Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote - - - ib. Gudgeons - - - - - ib. Escaloped Oysters - - - - ib. Stewed Oysters - - - - ib. Gratin of Lobsters - - - - ib. SIMPLE HORS d’ CEUVRES. Rissoles of Oysters - - - - 663 Lamb .... ib. Rocambole, or Croquettes of Meat, Game, or Poultry - - - - ib Lamb’s Fry - - - - - ib- REMOVES SIMPLIFIED. Stewed Rump of Beef ... ib. with Onions - 664 Stewed Rump Steak with Oyster Sauce ib. Ribs of Beef a l’Hoteliere - - - ib. Beef a la Mode - - - - ib. Another method - - - - - 665 Ox-tongue - - - - - ib. Loin of Veal with Stewed Celery - ib. White Sauce - - ib. Dress Fillet of Yeal for Remove - - 666 Breasts and Necks of Yeal - - ib. Half Calf's Head with White Sauce - ib. in Currie - - - ib. a la Vinaigrette - 667 broiled, Sauce Piquante ib. Large Veal Pie - - - - ib. Saddle of Mutton a la Bretonne - ib. Leg of Mutton basted with Devil’s Tears ib. the Housewife’s Method ib. Shoulder of Mutton, Savoyard’s Method 668 a la Polonaise ib. Provencale Fashion ib. Saddle of Lamb, Berlin Fashion - - ib. Leg or Shoulder of Lamb with Peas - ib. with French Beans - ib. Boiled Leg of Lamb with Spinach - 669 Neck of Lamb a la Jardiniere - - ib. Lamb’s Head Broiled, with Mince Sauce or Sauce Piquante ... ib. Loin or Neck of Pork a la Bourguinotte 670 Normandy Fashion ib. Pig’s Cheek, a new Method - - ib. Sucking Pig . ib. CONTENTS. PAGE Roast Turkey - - - - -670 Braised Turkey - - - - - ib. Capons or Poulardes - - - - 671 Fowls with Mushroom Sauce - - ib. Spring Vegetables - - ib. Braised Fricassee Sauce - - ib. Roast Goose - - - - - ib. Ducks - - - - - - 672 a l’Aubergiste (or Tavern-keeper’s Fashion - - - - - ib. Simplified Entrees - - - - ib. SAUCES. Melted Butter ..673 New and Economical Lobster Sauce - ib. Lobster Sauce a la Creme - - - ib. simplified - - - 674 Shrimp Sauce - - - - - ib. Anchovy Sauce - - - - - ib. Oyster Sauce.ib. Another way - - - - - ib. Caper Sauce - - - - - ib. To chop Onions, Herbs, &c. - - ib. To make a Colouring or Browning from Sugar - - - - - -675 ECONOMICAL MADE DISHES. Fillet of Beef - - - - - ib. A new Steak - - - - - 676 Fillet or Steak a la Maitre d’Hotel - ib. A new Mutton or Lamb Chop - - ib Veal Cutlets - - - - - 677 Pork Chops - - - - - ib. Pork or Veal Chops Fried - - - ib. Hashed Beef.678 Remains of Salt Beef ... ib. Ox Tails en Currie - - - - ib. Ragout of Ox Tails - - - - 679 Ox Cheeks.ib. Kidneys - - - - - ib. Calf’s Head.680 Brains and Tongue - - - ib. Veal Cutlets, the English Method - - ib. Sweetbreads - - - - - 681 Calf’s Liver Stewed, French Fashion - ib. Fried - - - - ib. Minced Veal and Poached Eggs - - 682 Mutton Cutlets sautes ... 683 sautes with Vegetables ib. Irish Method - - ib. Broiled - - - - ib. Harricoed - 684 Ragout of Mutton en currie - - - ib. Mutton Currie - - - - - ib. Pork Cutlets sautes - - - - ib. aux Cornichons - - 685 Sauce demi Robert - ib. Hashed Pork . ib. Pig’s Liver. ib. TABLE OF CONTENTS. 17 PAGE Pigs’ Kidneys ----- 680 Black Puddings - - - - - ib. Excellent Sausage Cakes - - - 687 Pigs’ Feet - - - - - - ib. MADE DISHES FROM POULTRY. Blanquettes of Turkey - - - - ib. Boudins of Turkey ... - 688 Turban of Croquettes - - - - ib. Minced and Grilled Turkey - - ib. Devilled Turkey - - - - - ib. Goose Hashed ----- ib. Stewed Duck and Peas - - - - ib. Duckling with Turnips : 689 Fricassee of Fowl or Chicken - - - ib. with Mushrooms - ib. Currie of Fowl, Oriental Fashion - ib. Broiled Fow r l - - - - - ib. Fowl Sauted in Oil - 690 Fricassee of Babbits - - - - ib. Gibelotte of Rabbits - - - - ib. Currie of Rabbit - - - - - ib. Rabbit Pies - - - - - 691 Pigeon Pies - - - - - ib. Pigeons in Compote - ib. Stewed Pigeons with Peas - - - ib. GAME. Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse, Black Game, Woodcocks, etc. - - - ib. Small Pheasants, the Miller’s Fashion 692 Pheasant with Callage - ib. Hashed Pheasant - - - - ib. A Plain Salmi of Pheasants - - ib. Grouse, Scotch Fashion - - • ib. Partridges a la Jardiniere - - 693 Partridges with Cabbage - - - ib. Partridges Sauted with Mushrooms - ib. Woodcocks, Downshire Fashion - - ib. a la Chasseur - ib. Hashed Woodcocks - - - - ib. Snipes a la Minute - 694 Plovers with English raw Truffles - ib. Wild Duck.ib. Hashed Wild Duck - - - - ib. Widgeons - - - - - - ib. Teal, a new Method - ib. Teal a la Sans Faijon - - - - 695 Larks a la Minute - ib. Lark Pie.ib. Jugged Hare ----- ib. Another and more simple Method - ib. MEAT PIES AND PUDDINGS. Rump Steak Pie - Mutton Pie Lamb Pie - PAGE - 696 Beef Steak Pudding - - ib. SECOND COURSE, KITCHEN AT HOME. Salad of Cold Meat - - 698 Lobster Salad - - - ib. Fish Salads ... - 699 Potato Salad - - - ib. Plain Salad a la Franc;aise - ib. Jelly of various kinds of Fruit - - 700 Orange Jelly - ib. Whipped Orange Jelly - - - 701 Lemon Jelly - - ib. Currant and Raspberry Jelly - - - ib. Strawberry Jelly - ib. JELLIES OF LiaUORS AND SPIRITS. Maresquino Jelly - - - - ib. Syrup of Almond Iced, a la Varsovienne, a substitute for Blancmange - - 702 Pineapple Cream - - ib. Prussian Cream - " - ib. BOHEMIAN JELLY CREAMS. Strawberry - ib. Apricot Bohemian Cream - - ib. French Custard Cream - - 703 Coffee Custard Cream - - - ib. Coffee Custard Cream, White - - ib. Chocolate Custard Cream - - ib. Almond Custard Cream - - 704 Cabinet Pudding - - - ib. Bread Pudding - - ib. Ground Rice Pudding - - - ib. Rice Pudding - - 705 Macaroni Pudding - - ib. Gateau of Rice - - ib. Fruit Puddings - - - ib. Pastry - - - 706 Short Paste for Fruit Tarts - - - ib. Apricot Tarts - - - ib. Greengage Tart - - - - - 707 Apple Tart - - ib. French Fruit Tart - - ib. Plain Souffle Puddings - - 708 Souffle Rice Pudding - - ib. Fruits Meringued - - ib. Snow Eggs . . - - - 709 Plum Pudding - - - - - ib. Currant Pudding - - - ib. Sweet Macaroons - - 710 Bitter Macaroons, or Ratafias - - ib. Mince Meat - - - ib. Mince Pies - - - ib. 18 TABLE OF CONTENTS. MISCELLANEOUS. PAGE Description of the Composition of this Work - - ix Soyer’s New Mode of Carving - - - - - - xiii Directions for Larding ------ xvii Meat and Poultry, &c ...... xviii Fish - - - - - - - - xix Vegetables and Fruit - - - - - - xx How everything should be in Cooking - - - - xx Number of Stewpans and other Kitchen Utensils required, &c. - - xxiii Economical Mode of Making Coffee - - - - - 711 Monster Bill of Fare ...... 712 New Pagodatique Entree Dish - - - - -713 The Celestial and Terrestrial Cream of Great Britain - - 719 SOYEE’S DIAMOND SAUCE. An entirely New and Relishing Sauce for Cold or Hot Meat, Poultry, Game, &c., BY A. SOYER, Will he ready for sale, in Quart or Pint Bottles, at the beginning of October next, and maybe obtained at all the principal Italian Warehouses in the United jftngdoin. A Second Edition of my D^lassements Culinaires, containing -LA- La Fille de l’Orage—Revue Seria Buffa—Le Mystere des Coulisses du Theatre de Sa Majeste—Tribulation Domestique—La Rene d’un Gourmet—Le Plat d’Entree Pagodatique —La Creme de la Grande Bretagne. Opinion of the Press on the above. “Not even the triumph of skill can satisfy the thirst for distinction of M. Soyer. His fancy takes a holder flight, from the banquet to the ballet; leaving the batterie de cuisine, he seeks the aid of the press; and on his first entrance into the field of literature, a new pas de caractere heralds a new plat d’entree. Invoking inspiration in the names of Cerito and Warrender, our author caters for the toe of the danseuse and the palate of the epicure at one and the same time; and, not content with sketching the plot of a grand ballet and the bill of fare of a petit diner, the daring artist gives a recipe for ‘ La Creme de Grande Bretagne the ingredients of which are nothing less than the gifts and graces of the most illustrious ladies of the land. “ The title is flashed upon the dazzled eyesight of the reader in lightning characters, in¬ scribed upon the dark bosom of a thunder-cloud—significant of the brilliant play of wit within. “ Soyer is as great in the kitchen as Jullien in the orchestra; and his advent in the world of letters has raised the cook above the conductor'—the baton yields to the spoon.”— Spectator. YOUNG BAVARIANS. From the Saltmarshe Collection Emma Soyek, Fecit, ) I - MADAME SOYER. INTRODUCTION TO HER PORTRAIT, AND BIOGRAPHY. The general, indeed almost universal interest which has been evinced for the loss of the late Madame Soyer, by reason of her celebrity as an artist, whose close adherence to nature procured for her in France (from her pictures winch w T ere exhibited in the Louvre in Paris), the famed name of the English Murillo. Her paintings evinced a great partiality for the same subject, and a like boldness of effect and sentiment were introduced in all her composi¬ tions, though never having copied or tried to imitate this celebrated master.* The amiable character of a life but too short, induces me to give an engrav¬ ing from a portrait of herself, the finished touches of which were put upon the canvas hut a few days previous to her lamented decease; her career was one, while it lasted, of great success, and must, had it not been so fatally brought to a close, have resulted in the highest fame; as it was, crowned heads of many nations paid homage at the shrine of her talents, and the cultivated sensibility of the aristocracy of this and other civilized nations, has at once appreciated her artistic excellences by the spontaneous expres¬ sion of admiration upon the examination of her works. I feel, and am proud in the possession of such an emotion, most strongly —I trust not too much so,—upon this sensible point. Such reasons, together with the fact of Madame Soyer being an English woman, are amongst my motives for giving here a short biography of her private and industrious life, which, although it appeared in nearly every journal of interest at the period of her unexpected death, will yet, I am assured, possess claims upon the sympathy of her countrymen and women. In the fullness of my own individual regard for her memory and of her rare gifts, and with a view to perpetuate a memorial of her extraordinary genius, I have for some while been adding to my collection, and at any ex¬ pense, all those of her paintings which may come within my reach. The last purchase I made was No. 43 in the catalogue, a Buy-a-Broom Girl and Boy, from the celebrated Saltmarsh collection; this, and many of her other works are to be met with in the galleries of men of the greatest taste and judgment, a sketch of which is given opposite. BIOGRAPHY. “ August 29. Died in London, in her 29th year, Emma, the wife of M. Soyer, of the Reform Club House, Pall Mall. “Madame Soyer (formerly Emma Jones) was born in London in 1813. Her father died when she was only four years of age, and left her to the care of a fond mother, who sacrificed the prospect of an increasing fortune to de- * “ But though in his manner, none of her works has the least subserviency of imita¬ tion, or the stiffness of copy.”.— Times. 2 vote her time entirely to the education of her child, who showed great incli¬ nation for study. The usual instructions were received with success, the French and Italian languages soon acquired, and music became a favorite amusement; in fact, it appeared that whatever was undertaken was of easy accomplishment. “ About tire year 1817 M. Simonau, a Flemish artist, pupil of the cele¬ brated Baron Gros, visited London, and brought with him some of his works, which were purchased by an antiquary, who advised him to open an academy for drawing and painting, which he did, and in a short time gained great celebrity. Mrs. Jones having heard of the fame of M. Simonau, went to him with her little girl, and wished him to give her lessons ; the extreme youth of the child at first made him hesitate, but at length he consented, and when Emma had been with him about six months, she showed such decided talent, that her mother proposed to remunerate him for the loss of all his other pupils if he would give his whole time to her daughter’s instruction ; to this, after some consideration, he agreed, and every succeeding year her improvement was so great, that before the age of twelve she had drawn more than a hun¬ dred portraits from life with surprising fidelity. “ During the same time she advanced wonderfully in music, under the eminent pianist, Ancot, who, at that time, was patronised by her Royal High¬ ness the Duchess of Kent, and was a great friend of Rossini and Weber—the last of these heard little Emma play a passage of his ‘ Der Freischutz’ wfith so much execution, that he declared, in the most flattering terms, that she would become a brilliant star in the musical world. M. Ancot strongly recom¬ mended that she should adopt music as a profession ; and, as her mother feared that drawing would injure her health, his opinion was for some time adopted. Through the following circumstance, however, painting was finally chosen instead of music. Mrs. Jones (who, in 1820, had become the wife of M. Simonau) having gone to the continent for her health, young Emma one day looking out of a window at Dunkirk, saw some children blowing bub¬ bles, and immediately, with a piece of charcoal, made a sketch of the group upon the wall: the execution of this rude drawing evinced so much power, that it was at once finally decided by her mother andM. Simonau to adhere to the original intention of making painting her principal study, and that music should only be cultivated as an accomplishment. A few years after a picture from this sketch was sold at Liverpool for sixty pounds. “ At an early age many original paintings and portraits bore ample testimony to the perseverance of the mother, the care of the master, and the genius of the young artist. “ In 1836 Miss Emma Jones was married to M. Soyer at St. George’s church, Hanover Square. “ In 1839 the poor mother died, happy that her daughter had attained emi¬ nence by her talents, and enjoyed prosperity with the husband of her choice. But, alas ! the happiness of nearly six years was destroyed in a few hours; Madame Soyer was taken in premature labour, and died on the same day, re¬ gretted by all who knew her. She was of a most amiable and cheerful dis¬ position, a kind friend, excellent and affectionate wife, too modest to set much value upon her wox’ks, leaving the palette to attend to her household duties. “ The acuteness of her husband’s feelings was painfully increased by his un¬ fortunate absence, being at Brussels at the time with the suite of the Duke of Saxe Cobourg-Gotha, who had seen M. Soyer in his culinary department at the 3 Reform Club, and having greatly admired several of Madame Soyer’s pictures, did her the honour to subscribe for a print from her picture of the ‘ Young Israelites,’ which has since been dedicated, by permission, to his Serene Highness.” * “ The death of this lady has been a source of great regret to all the lovers and encouragers of art. Cut off at a moment when her reputation was about to make her fortune, and when, in spite of all obstacles, her merits were be¬ come known to her countrymen, it is a sad reflection that she can no longer enjoy the encomiums she so justly deserves, nor share in those rewards which were about to be conferred on her. Besides an immense variety of drawings, sketches, and studies, she had painted upwards of 400 pictures, some of them of very high merit, and some of them which, when exhibited in the Louvre, obtained the highest meed of praise. No female artist has exceeded this lady as a colourist, and very few artists of the rougher sex have produced portraits so full of character, spirit, and vigour, and that boldness and breadth of light and shadow which constitutes one of the highest triumphs of art. She was exceedingly clever in recognizing the character of those who sat to her, so that her portraits convey the mind as well as the features of the sitters, their thoughts and sentiments. Her group, already mentioned, depicting two boys selling lemons, has been recently engraved by Gerard of Paris, in mezzotint, and is a fine illustration of the talents of the deceased. It partakes of the style of Murillo ; but, though in his manner, it has not the subser¬ viency of imitation, nor the stiffness of copy. There are a few of Madame Soyer’s paintings at the Reform Club-house, which will well repay a visit from those who have a taste for genuine merit and real nature.”— Times. The three following letters are selected from a numerous correspondence, as exhibiting at once sympathy for her loss, and admiration for her talents. “ Gotha, le 4 Janvier, 1843. A MONSIEUR ALEXIS SOYER. “ Monsieur, “ Je vous suis tres oblige du dessin original fait de feue Madame votre 'epouse, ainsi que des gravures d’apres le tableau des jeunes Israelites, que vous avez bien voulu m’envoyer. “ C’est avec beaucoup d’interet qui j’adjoindrai a ma collection de dessins les produits d’un talent aussi distingue que celui de feue Madame Soyer. “ En vous disant mes remercimens et en souliaitant que le temps adoucit votre grande et juste douleur sur sa perte prematuree, je vous assure encore de toute mon estime. “ Ernest Due de Saxe-Gotiia.” “ Cambridge House, le 21 Mai, 1846. “ Monsieur, “ Je suis charge de la part de S. A. R. Monseigneur le Due de Cambridge de vous remercier pour Penvoi des trois tableaux, peints par feue Madame votre epouse, qui ont ete duement admires et apprdcies, non seulement par S. A. R., le Due, mais aussi par Madame la Duchesse, ainsi que par ceux a qu’ il a ete donne de les voir. “ J’ai l’honneur d’etre, Monsieur, “ Votre tres humble et obeissant serviteur, “ Le Baron de Knesebeck.” * Gentleman’s Magazine. 4 “Stafford House, Vendredi. “ La Duchesse de Sutherland prdsente ses compliments a M. Soyer, et accepte avec plaisir la dedicace de la gravure* d’apres le tableau peint par feue Madame Sover. “ Elle a appris avee bien du regret la perte immense qu’il a faite.” MEMORIAL TO THE LATE MADAME SOYER, THE CELEBRATED ARTIST. “ Tlie inauguration of a splendid monument, erected to the memory of Ma¬ dame Soyer, whose name is so intimately connected with the genius of art, took place on Sunday, before a numerous and distinguished party, at Kensal Green Cemetery. The design, which is quite new, is by M. Soyer, her hus¬ band, and reflects the greatest credit upon that gentleman, who is so well known from his position at the Reform Club. It consists of a pedestal, about twelve feet in height, surmounted by a colossal figure of Faith, with her right hand pointing towards heaven, and the left supporting a golden cross. At her feet, lightly floating upon clouds, are two cherubims, the one holding a crown oyer the head, and the other presenting a palm to a beautiful medal¬ lion of the deceased; the latter executed in white marble, and surrounded by the emblem of eternity. A palette and brushes, embellished with a wreath of unfading laurels, is gracefully placed beneath the medallion. M. Puyen- broack, of Brussels, one of the principal sculptors to his Majesty the King of the Belgians, has added to his fame by this new example of his talent. Al¬ though the figures of the monument are larger than life, so light and elegant is their construction, that the observer might almost fancy they were leaving this terrestrial sphere, while the cherubims, poised upon the ascending clouds, convey such an idea of buoyancy, that one is led to believe that the heavy and solid stone (like the pure and eternal spirit of her who sleeps below) had taken its departure from earth, and was following that shade whose memory it was erected to perpetuate. We are informed that the palette and brushes, with the laurel and her initials, were sketched by the lamented artist the morning previous to her death, she being then in perfect health ; while the medallion is from her portrait by M. Simoneau, her father-in-law, and only master. “Amongst the parties present at the inauguration we perceived the fair Cerito, bestowing upon the shrine of her sister artist a wreath funeraire, made from a crown placed upon her head in La Scala, at Milan, before several thousands of her country people. Such feeling impressed all with the highest respect for that fairy child of Terpsichore, and deserves a distin¬ guished place in the history of art. The wreath, together with the palette of the artist, will be placed in a glass case, and fixed at the back of the pe¬ destal. The inscription upon the pedestal will be simply the words ‘To Her,’ without any addition whatever .”—Morning Post, 1844. EXTRACTS EROM THE PRESS. “ L’Angleterre sera vengee par une femme de l’echec dont Messieurs Foggo sont tombes les victimes. Madame Soyer de Londres nous a envoye deux morceaux exquis; si nous pouvions disposer d’une couronne au plus digne, c’est assurement a elle que nous rendrions cet hommage ; ne pouvant pas presenter de lauriers, donnons lui la premiere place dans nos colonnes : pour la correction du dessin, la vigueur, le modele et la purete du colons, ce * “La Ceres Anglaise.” I 1 5 sont la les qualites qui seraient enviees par les plus habiles de nos maitres. Mais ce que nous admirons par-dessus tout, dans son sens le plus vrai, est la touche delicate, la douceur du coloris, toujours plein de souplesse et de naivete.”— La Revue des Deux Mondes. “ TJne Glaneuse, par Madame Soyer, de Londres, a passe inapercu. Les critiques et le public se sont bien gardes d’en parler, parce que ce tableau, quoique renfermant de tr&s-grandes qualites, ne plait pas an premier abord. Nous ne connaissons point Madame Soyer; nous ne pourrions merne dire si ce nom est un pseudonyme, ou s’il est veritablement celui de cette artiste. Ce qu’il y a de singulier, c’est que jamais aucune femme n’a peint avec autant de verve, de chaleur et d’entrain. Madame Soyer (en supposant tou¬ jours que Madame Soyer soit une femme) est aux autres peintres ce que Madame George Sand est aux literateurs. Nous verrons plus tard si cette femme-peintre se soutiendra, et si ses productions procbaines vaudront celles de cette annee.”— La Capitole. “ The appearance of a very beautiful engraving of the picture of ‘The Jew Lemon-sellers” reminds us of the loss which art lias sustained in the leath of Madame Soyer. This gifted lady, better known, perhaps, as Miss Emma Jones, has been snatched away in the midst of a career, the opening success of which fully justified the most flattering anticipations of her nu¬ merous friends. Some of Madame Soyer’s pictures exhibited here were the subjects of very general admiration, and such of our readers as visited the last exhibition at Paris (where Madame Soyer was even more popular than in England) will recall with pleasure her picture, in the style of Murillo, of ‘ The Two Israelites,’ which received so much praise from the French critics. The devotion of Madame Soyer to the art which she so much adorned by her talents, is illustrated as much in the number as in the excellence of her works, which form the basis of a lasting and honorable fame. Although but twenty-nine years of age when she died, she had already painted no less than 403 pictures. Many of them are in the possession of the most distin¬ guished collectors in this country.”— Morning Chronicle . KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB. “ We copy the following, by the Viscountess de Malleville, from the last number of the Courrier de VEurope. Without subscribing to the justice of all the writer’s remarks, we think, as the opinion of an intelligent foreigner, that the article will be read with some interest. “ ‘We now quit the upper regions and follow the secretary of the club, and the politest and most obliging Cicerone in the world. Theatrically speaking, we have as yet only seen the stage and its sumptuous decorations from the boxes and pit; we now go behind the scenes, among the scene-shifters and the machinists. But unlike in a theatre, we see no naked walls behind the sceues — uo tattered draperies—no floors strewed with saw-dust. This fine apartment is the kitchen—spacious as a ball-room, kept in the finest order, and white as a young bride. All-powerful steam, the noise of which salutes your ear as you enter, here performs a variety of offices : it diffuses a uniform heat to large rows of dishes, warms the metal plates, upon which are disposed the dishes that have been called for, and that are in waiting to be sent above ; it turns the spits, draws the water, carries up the coal, and moves the plate 6 like an intelligent and indefatigable servant. Stay awhile before this octa¬ gonal apparatus, which occupies the centre of the place. Around you the water boils and the stewpans bubble, and a little further on is a moveable furnace, before which pieces of meat are converted into savory rotis —here are sauces and gravies, stews, broths, soups, &c.; in the distance are Dutch ovens, marble mortars, lighted stoves, iced plates of metal for fish, and various com¬ partments for vegetables, fruits, roots, and spices. After this inadequate, though prodigious nomenclature, the reader may perhaps picture to himself a state of general confusion, a disordered assemblage, resembling that of a heap of oyster-shells. If so, he is mistaken. For, in fact, you see very little, or scarcely anything, of all the objects above described; the order of their arrangement is so perfect, their distribution as a whole, and in their relative bearings to one another, all are so intelligently considered that you require the aid of a guide to direct you in exploring them, and a good deal of time to classify in your mind all your discoveries. “ f The man who devised the plan of this magnificent kitchen, over which he rules and governs without question or dispute, the artiste who directs by his gestures his subalterns tricked out in white, and whose eye takes in at a glance the most difficult combinations in the culinary art—in a word, the chef by whom every gourmet admitted within the precincts of the Reform Club swears, is M. Soyer, of whom it may justly be said that he is not more distinguished as a professor of the science of the Vatels and Caremes, than as a well-behaved and modest man. Allow him, therefore, to give you the history of his discoveries and improvements ; let him conduct you into the smallest recesses of his establishment, the cleanliness of wdiich would shame many a drawing-room ; and listen to him, also, as he informs you that those precious pictures which crowd his own parlour are from the pencil of a wife who has recently been taken from him by a premature death. Of this you might almost doubt till he again affirms it, for, judging from the poetry of the composition, and the vigour of the colouring and the design, you might swear that these pictures were the work of Murillo when he was young. “ ‘ Let all strangers who come to London for business, or pleasure, or curi¬ osity, or for wdiatever cause, not fail to visit the Reform Club. In an age of utilitarianism, and of the search for the comfortable, like ours, there is more to be learned here than in the ruins of the Coliseum, of the Parthenon, or of Memphis.’ ”— Chambers' Journal. “ Workhouse Cookery. —The disclosures in the Andover Union have thrown quite a new light on the science of cookery, which not even the inspiration of a Soyer could have hit upon. That ingenious chef de cuisine has blended together pastry and politics; with considerable skill he has invented a Creme d’Angleterre, consisting of charms borrowed from the female aristocracy; but those ingredients, imaginary and unsubstantial as they are, must be considered as solids when compared with the materials used for constituting the dishes served up to the paupers in the Andover Union. Butter, according to the new poor law cookery, is made from the skimmings of grease pots, and paro¬ chial tea is made from boiling old leaves which have already had their strength drawn out of them. A new cookery book, edited by M'Dougal the master of the Andover Union, is evidently a desideratum in culinary literature, which even Soyer’s universal genius has hitherto left unsupplied.”— Punch. C. AND J. ADLARD, PRINTERS, BARTHOLOMEW CLOSE.