■ V THE ART OF FURNISHING. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Getty Research Institute i \ / https://archive.org/details/artoffurnishingoOOhjch THE ART OF FURNISHING ON RATIONAL AND AESTHETIC PRINCIPLES. BY H. J. C. HENRY S. KING AND CO., LONDON. 1876. (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved .) THE GETTY CENTER LIBRARY PREFACE. Never, perhaps, have the twin subjects of furniture and decoration received so large a share of public attention as at the present time. Magazines and periodicals readily allot space to the topic ; and architects are eagerly consulted as to style, colour, and general arrangement of the interior fittings of the house. Notwithstanding, however, a vast amount of activity, literary and otherwise, there is, with the one excep¬ tion of Mr. Eastlake’s eminently serviceable, though somewhat severe and inflexible, “ Hints on House¬ hold Taste,’’ no ready handbook for the guidance of those who find themselves suddenly confronted with the complex details of painting, papering, and furnish¬ ing a house, matters to which neither their ordinary vi Preface. avocations nor special tastes have led them to give any previous thought. It is with the hope of suggesting some intelligible mode of procedure that the following pages are written, in which the reader is taken, step by step, through the not unpleasant task of decorating, and then furnishing (of course in a supervising-—-not a mechanical sense) an ordinary dwelling-house. The writer has purposely avoided introducing any designs illustrative of the principles he advocates, since “ style ” is progressive and subject to varia¬ tion, while the principles themselves, so far as they are correct, are immutable. South Hampstead, December, 1875 . I CONTENTS. PART I.—OF THE DECORATION. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION . CHAPTER II. THE HALL AND STAIRCASE CHAPTER III. THE DINING-ROOM .. CHAPTER IV. THE DRAWING-ROOM CHAPTER V. I THE BEDROOMS . CHAPTER VI. THE ATTICS AND BASEMENT CHAPTER VII. PAGE I • 4 • 7 . 11 .. 23 • • 30 THE NURSERIES ... 32 Contents, vm part If— OF THE FURNITURE. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION THE HALL ... THE DINING-ROOM CHAPTER II. CHAPTER III. CHAPTER IV. THE DRAWING-ROOM THE LIBRARY THE BEDROOMS CHAPTER v. CHAPTER VI. PAGE ... 36 44 73 99 ON STYLE MISCELLANEA CHAPTER VII. CHAPTER VIII. CHAPTER IX. 104 107 IN CONCLUSION ... 112 The Art of Furnishing. PART I. OF THE DECORATION. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. Having chosen your house, make a note of its general plan, and mark the aspect of the various rooms. Without a fair idea of the size and form of your rooms it will be impossible to set to work, even in imagination, to furnish them; while “ as¬ pect” is an all-important consideration, otherwise you may run into the error of giving the north side of the house a colder look, and making your south rooms uncomfortably hot. 2 2 The Art of Furnishing. A little care, however, will enable us to modify existing conditions where unfavourable, or to intensify them where desirable. And first, in a scheme of furnishing, we would consider THE WALLS. Your house may have been inhabited before, or perhaps it is newly built. In either case the probability is that the walls are already papered or painted, and with equal probability the paper- hangings are unsuitable, or at best only passable. It is a singular thing that the builder should be allowed to take the initiative in decorating a house, without the slightest reference to the wishes of those who may occupy and furnish it. It might be better if he would content himself with putting on a first coat of paint only. Now, as the walls constitute a background—an atmosphere, so to speak, of tone or colour, from which the occupants are never free, and which must exercise, not a mere sentimental, but a positive influence upon their nervous organism, we would say: By all means have your normal surroundings as much as possible in harmony with your individual taste, and with the special The Walls. 3 requirements of the several apartments. We insist upon this being the key-note of the whole, from which all other details of the room must spring harmoniously. Let us begin, as we enter, with the Hall and Staircase. 2* CHAPTER II. THE HALL AND STAIRCASE. The invariable “ Sienna marble ” paper has its merits, presenting a mellow tone, neither too dark nor too hot—qualities, however, which may be obtained in greater variety without the mean¬ ingless representation of marble halls and stair¬ cases in houses otherwise built of brick and stucco. Paint is perhaps the best for a staircase; or the lower wall may be painted to a height vary¬ ing from three to five feet, and the upper part coloured, in distemper, a lighter tint than the lower part (or dado). A dividing line, darker still, should be struck between the two portions, and the woodwork (doors, skirtings, &c.) should be painted in dark corresponding tones. But if it is desired to paper the Hall and Stair- The Hall and Staircase. 5 case, there are now papers to be had of special design for the purpose, which may be either var¬ nished or not, or the lower part only varnished. As to the colours most suitable, that will depend in a measure on the amount of light obtainable. The Staircase is a passage, not a dwelling-room, and admits of lighter treatment, inasmuch as we have not to consider the effect of the walls as a background to persons or things. We incline to an effect of coolness and airiness, combined with a pleasant softness of tone. If patterned, the pattern should have a softly-stencilled effect, and not be obtrusive. On the other hand, since the Staircase is not subject to the restraints imposed upon the other apartments, a bolder and more vigorous treat¬ ment may be adopted. The architectural features, for instance, may offer facilities for effective decoration, and your Hall and Staircase may present charming glimpses of classic or mediaeval periods; or we may find ourselves surrounded with imagery of tropical luxuriance, while the forms and fragrance of real plants will complete the delusion. Only, the apartments must be sumptuous in proportion, or our expectations 6 The Art of Furnishing. will be raised, to be disappointed further on. In a general way, however, the Staircase will claim only a moderate share of attention. Creamy yellow or buff, pale fawn, pale sal¬ mon, or light tones of Indian red, pale sage- greens, turquoise blue, are among the tints to be recommended. Greys are apt to have a gloomy effect, unless relieved by pictures or prints. For yellow or buff walls, the dado and wood¬ work may be chocolate or olive brown, or a dark blue toned down with black. For pale salmon, dark bronze-green. For pale sage-green, either darker tints of the same, or dull green-blue, olive-browns, or Indian red. With turquoise- blue, chocolate will contrast best, or maroon. Take care not to let your entrance (or Hall) overpower the rooms which are entered from it, but let it be subordinate, and leading up to the colours of the reception rooms. From the Hall we pass to the Dining-room. CHAPTER III. THE DINING-ROOM. Here, one or two considerations meet us. Is the room intended to be used solely, or chiefly, for the purpose of dining ? or is it to constitute dining-room, morning-room, breakfast-room, and library in one ? In fact, is the greater portion of the day to be spent in this room ? If so, let us treat it accordingly, and not hamper ourselves with restrictions as to what is the proper and usual mode to observe in the treatment of a Dining-room. For a Dining-room, as such, a certain richness and heaviness of decoration is not unbecoming. Where oil paintings are hung, plain sage or olive green, or dull red walls make a good background: these may be painted, or suitable papers are to be found. 8 The Art of Furnishing. Pompeian red has been considerably used, and is very effective with black woodwork. There are likewise the French leather papers, Japanese and real leathers, painted canvas, or even some of the printed cretonnes, and a variety of means open to those who can afford them of covering the walls, all of which however demand, for their rightful carrying out, a panelled dado, painted, or left in the natural wood. If, however, the room is to be both Dining-room and sitting-room, we would have a less conven¬ tional treatment. There should be a warmth and quiet cheerfulness, an air of sprightliness and yet repose, and, above all, an absence of monotony. And here we do not think the end can be better answered than by the judicious employment of some of the really decorative papers that are being produced just now under the influence of a few leading minds. In some of these there is a variety of outline and a blend¬ ing of subtle tints, which, while forming a com¬ parative monotone against which pictures and objects may stand out, afford, in their absence, a singularly fascinating study for the eye, with¬ out being wearisome or over-engrossing. Har- 9 The Dining-room. monising or contrasting dados are usually made for these papers, which heighten their effect, and, at the same time, help to break the line of the wall against which the furniture stands. A dado should be higher or lower than the middle of the wall (usually lower), but must never cut the space into two equal parts. The dado and skirt¬ ing should not be less than three feet six inches high. No rules can be laid down for the colours to be employed here. If the conditions before mentioned are borne in mind, we do not know that we need limit the use of any subdued tints or well-balanced combinations. The position of the room will again govern the warmth or cool¬ ness of the colours. If the ceiling is not decorated, at least there is no reason why the dead chalkiness of the whitewash should not be relieved by the admixture of a little ochre or lake, or other colour harmonising or contrasting with the walls. Excepting with very light walls, a toned ceiling is much more agreeable than pure white, and costs no more. The tinting of a cornice, or ornamenting a ceiling with bands and lines of colour, requires care and some little skill. io The Art of Furnishing. As regards the woodwork, the time-honoured fashion of graining in imitation of natural woods can only be defended on the score of durability, and the facility with which it can be patched and touched up. Plain colours, harmonising with the wall colours, are preferable, or even a coating of varnish alone, where the joinery is fairly good. If paint, it can be varnished, which is most lasting, or finished with an “ egg-shell gloss.” In room decoration, and in a Dining-room especially, a broad massing of colours is far more effective than too much fussy “ picking out ” of mouldings, and elaboration of delicate lines and arabesque ornament, which, at a little distance, are, for all practical purposes, lost, or worse than thrown away. As for mouldings and projections, it is doubtful whether the labour expended in tinting these produces, in many cases, so good an effect as if they were left to the natural play of light and shade. CHAPTER IV. THE DRAWING-ROOM. This room claims special attention. Here “ beauty, sweetness, and light ” are to culmi¬ nate. The purpose of a Drawing-room is relaxa¬ tion and social enjoyment, hence all the powers of our art and mind may be lavished upon this room, which should be the embodiment of oui finer nature, and often does most faithfully re¬ present us in our individual characteristics, our tastes, and capacities. Other rooms are, so to speak, work-rooms, and take their tone from the necessary pursuits to which they are more or less set apart; but in this room fancy reigns supreme, and our spirits find free scope, unfettered by the weightier cares of life. Whatever of poetry, of art, or of culture there is in us will manifest itself in the fittings 12 The Art of Furnishing. and accessories of the with-drawing room. But we concern ourselves at present only with the walls. We cannot say that we like a dark Drawing¬ room-—-of the two, we should prefer a white and gold room—but here, again, the apathetic indif¬ ference with which we have followed each other in the not very brilliant idea of white paint and gilding, is a sufficient reason for renouncing a style which has little claim to artistic merit, but which owes its success chiefly to its brilliancy and power of reflecting light. These two latter qualities, or, rather, this conjoint quality, is not to be lost sight of in a room in which a spirit of gaiety rather than of gloom is to prevail, but is quite compatible, nevertheless, with warmer hues than the colourless medium of white. Avoid a similarity Between the Dining-room # and Drawing-room. As the transition is usually from the one to the other, it is best to seek a pleasing contrast of colour. Grey, or white with grey or gold, is of course a safe medium, as it presents no difficulties in the way of after furnishing; but, at best, it is tame. Let us assume the Dining-room to be red. 13 The Drawing-room. ’We would then have a cool green tone for the Drawing-room; or, if the former is green—say, olive or sage-—a pale salmon-pink hue would make a good contrast. Or something between harmony and contrast is obtained by opposing olive-green to a pale turquoise or Nile blue. We cannot too strongly advocate this employ¬ ment of varied effects of colour throughout a house, as we believe a vast amount of pleasure and satisfaction will thus be derived. Pale lemon-yellow is another tone that ought to be more frequently used for drawing-rooms. This, or a fuller apricot-yellow, is most effective with black woodwork, and nothing can light up better than the former. To briefly suggest a few of the colours that may be safely used for the Dining-room and Drawing¬ room, and the relation in which they best accord, t we will give the following table :— DINING-ROOM. DRAWING-ROOM. Dull red ... Dark olive or sage. Pale apricot-yellow. ( Grey blue to turquoise. { Pale sage-green. Salmon-pink. Dark olive or sage ... Turquoise or Nile blue. J Lemon-yellow. Dull peacock-blue. j Citrine. Chocolate or fine browns ... Pale blues. 14 The Art of Furnishing. These contrasts may also be used for the dado and upper wall of the same room. No tabulated list, however, will stand in place of personal thought, but if the few contrasts given are analysed, they will be found to contain the principles of harmony; and if the reader has neither the scientific knowledge nor natural faculty for discerning colour, we should only lead him astray by any lengthened list of secondary and tertiary combinations.* Science may do something, but the eye is the true standard by which colour must be judged. It should be borne in mind that in speaking of the colour of a room we do not necessarily mean that the walls are of one simple tint or wash of colour: the pattern and colouring may be complex, and yet there shall be one predominating hue which shall give the tone to the room. A well-mixed Indian or Persian carpet will contain an almost endless number of colours, and yet there is often one predominating tint or bloom—colour—and this effect may be obtained in wall paper, though the precise application may not be so desirable. * A useful “ Manual of Colour ” is that by R. Redgrave Esq., R.A. Chapman and Hall. The Drawing-room. 15 It may be noticed that we have omitted from our list any mention of violet as a wall colour, and we cannot pass by the omission without a reason. Violet, it is well known, contrasts with pale greenish yellow, and might be used as a bordering or dado for cowslip-yellow; and a somewhat dull (muddy) plum-violet will make a novel wall colour and a good background for pictures ; but we can¬ not recommend violet, as ordinarily understood. We doubt its lasting properties, and we prefer to restrict its use to the dresses of the occupants of a room rather than employ it as a ground colour, in which case it not unfrequently comes into serious collision with many a tasteful expression of femi¬ nine art, to the detriment of both walls and dresses. It does not become us, although we may have our predilections, to attempt in a popular treatise to force upon the conviction of our readers the superiority of one particular style or epoch. More¬ over we can, without hypocrisy, appreciate in¬ trinsic merit in almost every style of art when at its best. It is the period of decline that acts so banefully, when, through assiduous toil and patient care, the culminating point is reached and a school 16 The Art of Furnishing. is formed. Then step in fashion and wealth and pride, and the artisan and the artist are surfeited with orders for the production of greater and greater magnificence. Price is of no moment, and that which before was a labour of love, is ,hence¬ forth a scramble for wealth, and few indeed are the heroes who refuse the dazzling bait. It is so largely to-day in the province of fine art. Indus¬ trial art we are thankful to say has not yet reached the highest point in fortune’s wheel. It is noticeable that the Drawing-room, how¬ ever other rooms may, from circumstances of their own, have escaped, has mostly been the scape¬ goat upon which the sins of taste and fashion have been laid. As regards the PI all—there has been no need to alter the hard outlines of the accus¬ tomed furniture, neither visitors nor ourselves being wont to rest long here. The Dining-room has mainly been let alone, on the ground of long association and the somewhat unalterable nature of its requirements; but the Drawing-room (from a perfectly allowable assumption that here taste may be permitted to express itself) is generally the room in which everything that is irrational and slavishly despicable is carefully crowded The Drawing-room. 1 7 together. If it is asked what it is we condemn, we say, distinctly, the unthinking use of large masses of gilding and glass and marble; of patchy, realistic bunches of flowers on walls and carpets ; of light, flimsy, ill-constructed chairs and tables that will not fulfil their purpose; and of luxuri- ously debilitating puffy sofas and chairs which our ancestors would have scorned. We do not deny that at times a chair or sofa of this sort may be a boon, but for every-day use and for long sitting in they are highly objectionable. As for gilding and plate glass, we believe the essential vulgarity of their immoderate use is fast being perceived. We could never under¬ stand the preference given to white marble in English dwellings. It is cold, and uncongenial to the eye and to the touch; and for furniture, coloured marbles would harmonize better. As a matter of course, in the decoration of the house, the Drawing-room has frequently come off worst. The favourite wall paper lately has been a white or grey, plain or watered ground, with a stamped and gilded bunch of flowers, or a huge fleur-de-lis at regular intervals, the bunches of flowers presenting no better effect than might 3 18 The A rt of Furnishing. have been got with a splash of liquid gold from a brush, directed on the most rudimentary geo¬ metric plan. A picture hanging on such a wall generally cuts into three or four of the said gilded nosegays. Of course, with a smaller pattern studded more closely, the effect is not so bad. Another fashion is to divide the walls into panels, with a border, and a grey or other plain tinted margin. There is not much to be said against this plan, except that in rooms of moderate size it destroys the breadth and unity of the whole. It affords, however, the opportunity for a delicate filling or panel, and a border of either a geometric or a conventionally-flowered pattern of any variety of colouring. We own to a liking for the dado and upper paper, with or without a frieze above, as it gives the room a continuity which it lacks in the panelled method. In either case wall accommodation is provided for pictures, though the unbroken length of wall must be acknowledged fittest where a number have to be hung, as it is extremely difficult to arrange odd-sized pictures on walls already cut into square or oblong spaces. We have now in our mind a [Drawing-room, The Drawing-room. 19 the principal walls of which are covered with Italian lake scenery, executed, apparently, in distemper colour on the walls, but, on a closer inspection, it will be found to be the ordinary process of wall paper, only printed in wider widths, and the joins arranged horizontally in¬ stead of vertically. Imitation Corinthian columns, with arches of masonry springing from their capitals, are made to enclose each scene, forming a kind of pro¬ scenium. The execution is spirited and effective, and we believe better than anything of the same kind to be got at the present time. These date thirty or forty years back. At first sight, however, it is apparent that a room decorated in this way is totally unsuited to pictures; the various pieces of wall are, in fact, themselves so many pictures. There are, it is true, one or two small spaces filled in with a plain grey panel and border, on which a picture or two might be hung, but the effect, beside the larger distempered scenes, would be lost. The difficulty with a room of this sort is that 3 * 20 The Art of Furnishing. the furniture necessarily comes into the scheme of the decoration—taking the place of objects in the foreground of a picture, and requires to be arranged with some reference to the laws of perspective, particularly where a piece of fur¬ niture actually cuts into one of the scenes. There are other disadvantages, such as the confused background it presents, and the pos¬ sibility of the pictured landscape (unless really a work of art) becoming wearisome and mo¬ notonous. We would rather, as a general principle, treat a wall as a wall, preserving its flatness (or vertical plane), at the same time endeavouring to avoid monotony and crudeness, either of design or colour. This is the common-sense as well as the artistic view of the interior decoration of or¬ dinary dwelling-rooms. Once for all, neither in wall papers nor carpets should the pattern be. made to stand forward (in prominent relief), as if it could be clutched by the hand or caught in the foot. To a trained mind and eye this always occasions a disagree¬ able sensation, and is, in truth, a want of fitness The Drawing-room . 21 or propriety in design, the first principle of which is to remember the purpose and position of the thing designed for. Gold is frequently of great service in enhancing the effect of a paper, especially for a Drawing¬ room. It is, however, expensive, and the Dutch metal commonly used in its place is apt to turn black. Detached patches of ornament in a paper are bad; the design should be continuous, or “all over,” as it is called; and the colouring should be mainly in secondary or tertiary combinations, the primaries, red, blue, and yellow, being spar¬ ingly used in their positive state. We believe a modern authority in wall papers starts on the hypothesis that everything in the decoration and furnishing of a room should be subordinated to the one chief object of interest and beauty, the human countenance. Certain it is that too brilliant a wall, or chair covering, is not best calculated to set off the faces and fashions of the occupants of a room. To sum up, we conclude a Drawing-room should be of medium tint, not dark, and such as will light up well; the walls adapted for prints and 22 The Art of Furnishing. water-colours rather than oil paintings ; the pre¬ vailing hue of the walls carefully chosen to suit, not only the blonde or brunette who may chance to be mistress of the house, but as much as pos¬ sible varied complexions ; and, lastly, that the room should present a pleasant contrast to, and form an agreeable relief from, the Dining-room. If our fair reader will only set her wits to work to embody these suggestions, we prophesy a safe beginning for the after-work of furnishing. And now to the Bedrooms—for we think the Library or the Breakfast-room may be left to fall under some of the foregoing remarks—merely ob¬ serving that the walls of a Library or Study should be marked by quiet and repose, without gloom, and should be such as will neither perplex the brain nor fatigue the vision. Soft, low-toned greens, fawn colour, soft browns, grey, blue, olive, or citrine may be used. For the display of old china it is sometimes useful to stop the wall paper a couple of feet or more short of the ceiling, and at this juncture to run a shallow moulded shelf round the room, with a groove in it for plates. The upper portion or background may then be a plain colour, suit¬ able to the “ articles of vertu” to be displayed. CHAPTER V. THE BEDROOMS. Judging from the exhaustless supply of wall¬ paper patterns (ranging from a penny to three¬ pence per yard) through which we are invited to wade whenever we require to paper a Bedroom, it might be thought that here at least every variety of taste and condition must be met. But classify this astounding mass of inventive genius under two or three heads. Are not the majority of the patterns rapidly divided into dia¬ mond shapes with dots or sprigs in the centre ; perpendicular waved lines with the aforesaid sprigs or dots ; sprigs and dots without either diagonal or wavy lines \ or even dots alone. In fact, all manner of meaningless and wearisome repetition of lines and spots, which afford no other relaxation for the throbbing head or weary brain than that 24 The Art of Furnishing. of endless arithmetical problems—often to the utter distraction of the poor invalid. A wall paper had far better be in some rambling pattern, where it is impossible to discern begifi- ning or ending. If the eye be induced to attempt to track the lines to their conclusion—the effort will most likely act as a soporific. Touching the question of colour, we are fain to own we cannot imagine a Bedroom with very dark walls, nor with very hot - looking walls. Coolness seems a necessity next to cleanliness. Aerial half-tints are our favourites, with scarcely any pattern, or if any, only faintly described by a lighter or darker tone of the ground. There is a deceptiveness—a seeming transparency in such a paper—similar to the atmospheric effects of sky and cloud, which intercept but never seem abruptly to stop the vision. Papers of this description, with part dead or dull and part glazed (satin as it is termed), in pale rose, pale blue, pale green, or pale amber, are sure to make a good room, and will wear a long time. Borders at top and bottom may be used or not: great care is required in selecting a bordering, The Bedrooms. 25 or it will do more harm than good. The colours may either harmonize or contrast, but should in no case be too strong. If the room is low, a border will be disadvan¬ tageous, by bringing it still lower. The ceiling and cornice are improved by a tint of the same colour as the wall paper, but of course lighter. The doors and woodwork should also be painted in tones of corresponding colour. A fashion has prevailed of late of hanging the walls with papers (chiefly French) printed to match that most invaluable of printed fabrics, the cre¬ tonne chintz. Walls and bed furniture, curtains and chair or sofa coverings are all of a piece. We dislike the effect greatly. There is no relief, no , t repose, scarcely the light and shadow necessary to picturesqueness, for the similarity and general spottiness of furniture and walls effaces the clear outlines on which so much depends. Papers in imitation of fluted or quilted stuffs or satins are not desirable in point of taste, all imita¬ tion of this sort proving unsatisfactory in the long run. The delicate colouring, however, of some of these redeems them from vulgarity, and makes amends for the falsity of the design. 26 The Art of Furnishing. In considering a paper for a Bedroom, as indeed with every room, some idea should be formed of the room as a whole, in order to preserve harmony throughout. If your bed and window curtains are to be white, grey or white walls would be appallingly flat and cold. If, on the contrary, the curtains are of a plain or mixed colouring, the walls should either partake of the same or of contrasting tones, or perhaps in this case they may be grey or nearly white, if pre¬ ferred, with a border, to give some warmth and colour. Borders should be carried round the top and bottom of the room only, and not down the angles and round windows or fireplaces. If a room is panelled, that is a different thing; the borders will then be worked round each panel, and a plain coloured outer margin (or “ stile”) should surround and separate one panel from another. A Bedroom and Dressing-room communicating are better treated alike. A novel effect may be obtained with the better class of modern wall papers, by covering the wall about three - quarters of the way up with a The Bedrooms. 27 geometric or severely conventionalised paper, and the remaining upper portion of the wall with a bold - patterned paper of branches or birds, fruit or flowers, or other free rendering of animal or vegetable life, the upper and lower papers to be divided sharply off by a border or moulding. Some trouble may be experienced in finding suitable patterns for this mode . of decoration, and such as will harmonise and not produce a harsh and disjointed effect; but we affirm they are to be found, though it is not our business to act as an advertising medium. By the plan suggested we get a pleasing fresco running round the room, and this upper decoration or frieze, which in a room ten or twelve feet high might be from two to three feet deep, need in no way interfere with the hanging of pictures or of mottoes, which many people are fond of having in bedrooms, since the cords for these may be affixed to nails placed under or upon the divid¬ ing line or border, or even a light picture rod may be fixed here if desired. The idea is equally applicable to other rooms. Our remarks, hitherto, in reference to this part of our subject have been directed more particu- 28 The Art of Furnishing. larly to the principal Bedrooms, and not to those of the younger members of a family. A young girl’s Bedroom, for instance, may reasonably call for lighter treatment, but with all deference for the cherished “white muslin over pink,” and all that sort of thing, we cannot help thinking a room of this description might be gracefully and appropriately decorated without having recourse to a species of millinery and “ flummery,” which in their proper sphere of dress may be elevated into an art, but in the furnishing of a room are out of place and un¬ meaning. Adopt a lighter style by all means, let the special tastes of the occupant of the room be con¬ sulted, but let the room itself be a means of edu¬ cation in the laws and principles that underlie sound taste. This involuntary action of every-day surround¬ ings upon our nature and tastes cannot be over estimated, and should do much towards guiding and moulding the genius of another generation. For a youth or young man, on the other hand, we would deprecate all those “ rose-water idio¬ syncrasies,” as Mr. Carlyle would call them, and The Bedrooms. 29 which strike us as effeminate, although by some strange inconsistency we have often found them associated with otherwise hardy and gallant soldiers of the field and tent. For a Bath-room there is nothing we think better than the varnished “ tile ” papers, except the tiles themselves. The varnished papers, however, will resist the action of the water (from continued splashing) for a long while, and are made in a variety of patterns. They are also useful for lavatories. Of course they are an imitation, but we are not so prejudiced as to renounce an imitation which has so much to recommend it, and are fain to make this an exception to the general rule. CHAPTER VI. THE ATTICS AND BASEMENT. Considering the frequent changes of servants to which perforce we have had to accustom our¬ selves of late, we think a cheap paper of a neat cheerful description is the desideratum for these rooms. It will be better and healthier to renew the paper nowand again, rather than put on any¬ thing more expensive in the first instance. Taking a sudden descent from the Bedrooms to the Basement, we have little fault to find with the generality of Kitchens and down-stairs passages, and cheerfully endorse the use of distemper or size colour, though paint is of course preferable, as it can be washed. The tone of buff mostly used is good, as it reflects plenty of light, and has not a cold or grey look. The Attics and Basement. A good plan for passages especially is to paint a high dado (say 4 ft. 6 in. or 5 ft.) of a darker buff or brown, with a line still darker on top, and colour the walls above this line in distemper. The painted dado takes off the rough usage the lower part of the wall is subject to, and can be carefully washed down, whereas if the wall is entirely distempered it cannot be cleaned with¬ out showing marks. We turn once more to the upper stories, and this branch of our subject is completed. CHAPTER VII. , THE NURSERIES. These should vary with the various stages of childhood. As the old wall papers become faded and dingy, they may he replaced by others of a higher educational tone and purpose (in a deco¬ rative sense of course we mean), for we still persist in our theory of the ethical mission of decorative art, however humble. A person of an ingenious turn of mind might think it more to the purpose to make the walls of a Nursery directly educational (in the school sense of the term), by a geographical or arithmetical wall paper, cleverly designed, with a view to the easy acquisition of those branches of study during meal times or waking hours. But first let us say we doubt the value of con¬ fused and desultory instruction in subjects such The Nurseries. as these ; and, further, this mode of treatment would be to ignore the first principles of wall decoration, and to forget that a wall is a wall, and not a black board or large - sized diagram. Ingenuity is not art. It may be ingenious, by the artful contrivance of plate glass, to make a wall look like a doorway, or an opening into another apartment ; but it is obviously incon¬ venient, on essaying to walk through the ap¬ parent open space, to find yourself confronted by a rigid sheet of glass. Yet this is no imaginary case. Somewhere in his writings Mr. Ruskin ridicules the idea of walls being treated in a flat conven¬ tional way, and adduces Correggio as an ex¬ ample of a great painter who set at defiance the laws of sober wall decoration, and threw his whole genius and energy into a sublime effort to make the wall he was commissioned to decorate look as unlike a vulgar wall as possible, preferring to paint open trellis-work of vines, with clouds and sky beyond, and children peeping through. But here was a true work of art, a picture in fact; yet, we think, scarcely a wall in its true meaning. At all events it must have proved 4 34 The Art of Furnishing. extremely awkward had the mistress of the house wished to place a buffet or cabinet in this particular spot, and she must have been puzzled between her sense of the best arrangement of her room on the one hand, and deference to the great painter on the other. But doubtless Correggio foresaw all these little matronly anxieties, and adapted his space accordingly. And here we bring to a close the first part of our subject, viz., of interior sur¬ face decoration. Of the outside of the house we say nothing. Architects (with a few exceptions) are at their wits’ end as to what style of building to give us. In the mean time it seems to us the wiser course to see that we get sound constiuction, the best possible ventilation and drainage, as con¬ veniently planned rooms and staircases as may be, and to leave the rest to luck. The interiors of our houses are however completely at our com¬ mand, and we think it will be seen, from the observations thrown out, that the thoughtful and successful treatment of the walls, from their primitive ghastly state to the final stage of beauty and completeness, demands something more than the exercise of a little vague indiscriminate taste in selecting a few wall papers in the retailer s shop, The Nurseries. 35 which may chance to look pretty at the time, and too often are designed on no other principle than that of inane prettiness, devoid of all vitality and purpose. PART II. OF THE FURNITURE. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. The first condition of “ Furniture is that it shall be useful; the second, that it shall be beautiful. Utility and beauty have been harshly and ignorantly divorced, yet perfection is rarely attained in the latter except the former be united with it, and beauty (of a rational and concrete kind) follows closely on utility, as its necessary sequence and outcome. We shall endeavour, in advising upon Furniture, at all times to give the first place to qualities of usefulness, durability, and perfection of workman¬ ship ; and the second, to a consideration of how far beauty and pictqresqueness may be attainable or admissible. Introduction. 37 We shall again take the rooms in the same order as before, so as to be able easily to refer to them in considering walls and furniture in their conjoint relation of distance (or background) and foreground objects. In treating of the general furniture of a room, we shall have to touch upon the various industries of the cabinet-maker, the upholsterer, the carpet weaver, the maker of curtain stuffs and printed fabrics, and the brass and iron worker. Foremost amongst these, however, we rank the art of cabinet-making; first, as comprising the bulk of furniture proper, and second as involving higher issues than any other branch connected with furnishing. In nothing is a purchaser so easily deceived as in cabinet work. Cabinet¬ making is essentially an art, and consists in a clear understanding of the nature of the mate¬ rial which has to be worked and the various modes of construction, so as to obtain the greatest amount of strength with the least waste either of labour or material. The carpenter is always an honourable person. Why should not the cabinet-maker be equally so ? For the simple reason that the carpenter is forced, 38 The Art of Furnishing. in much of his work (floors, joists, roofs, and other responsible timbers), to remember that lives may depend upon the thoroughness of his work; whereas the cabinet-maker’s craft, though requir¬ ing greater precision and accuracy of finish, seldom has to resist any great strain, and the consequence is that much of the furniture sent out is considered durable enough if it has just sufficient tenacity to hold together with careful usage. And the public encourages' this state of things by asking over and over again for the cheaper article, without attempting to form any sound judgment in the matter. The fact is, if a piece of cabinet furniture is well made it will probably last a hundred years or more, and still be in a fair condition ; but if badly made in the first instance, it will be a source of annoyance and expense from the day it is pur¬ chased to the no distant period when it may be sold for one-fourth its original cost, or banished into the attic or lumber-room. It is notorious that we get so accustomed to continual breakages in our furniture (weak joints becoming fractured, and bits of carving dropping off), as to regard them in the same light as Introduction. 39 taxes and water rates, inevitable items in our yearly expenditure. This need not be if people would pay more regard to soundness of construction and less to meretricious ornament. We have admitted it is not the easiest thing to tell at a glance whether a chair or a cabinet or a sideboard is likely to last a lifetime, or whether it will “ spring a leak” the day after we get it home; and for this reason we should like to give a few broad hints for the guidance of untechnical purchasers. Many people seem to think the nature of wood will allow of its being turned and twisted about at pleasure; but a moment’s reflection will convince the reader of the absurdity and impos¬ sibility of this. The trunk of a tree may be described as a cluster of fibres running in the direction of its length, and through which the sap flows. These fibres constitute what is termed the “grain” of a wood, and are more or less compact in different kinds of timber, thus divine rise to the terms ‘ close grained, “open grained,” &c. The closer the grain the 40 The Art of Furnishing. harder the wood. A shortness of grain also renders a wood more liable to snap when used as legs, columns, &c. We have said that the grain runs with the length /of the trunk. If we want to cut a stick out of the trunk of a large tree (which by the way we never do, as the offshoots form better ready-made sticks and more elastic), we cut in the direction of its length, and the fibre or grain running its natural way gives to the stick the greatest possible strength. But let us suppose the tree to be of large enough circumference to allow of the same¬ sized stick being cut across the trunk, at right angles to its upward growth. After infinite trouble we hack out a piece similar in size to the first. Now with your hands try the strength 9f the two. The first, with the grain running lengthways, will not yield ; the second, cut right across the trunk, snaps with more or less ease. It was cut across the grain, and is merely composed of a succession of short fibres, which have a minimum of cohesive power. Every one knows the ease with which, say, Introduction. 4i the side of a wooden box or packing-case can be split in the direction of the grain, and how next to impossible it is to chop it the teverse way. Therefore, the first principle in the use of timber, if we would obtain the greatest amount of strength, is to let the grain run in the natural direction with the length of our work, and not with its breadth or narrowest way. Let us proceed a little further and see where the principle is abused. Suppose we cut a plank or board an inch or two thick out of the middle of the aforesaid tree, from top to bottom of the trunk, in the direction cf or with the grain. This board, let us say, measures one foot six inches wide, and any length you please. We want to cut a chair- back out of this plank, say one of the modern circular chair-backs peculiar to this century. Try it on a piece of paper or cardboard, ruled across with parallel lines to represent the grain of the wood. You will find when you have drawn the out¬ lines of the chair-back that in parts the grain will be only an inch or two long, and at such a point the chair would soon snap. Therefore the chair- maker finds it imperative to form the back out of 42 The Art of Furnishing. three or four different pieces, in order to get any length of grain; but even then the grain at parts is very short, and this perhaps just at the point where he requires to peg or “dowel” his joint. The same danger also threatens the curved or “ cabriole leg,” particularly when the curve is unusually great. The strongest form that can be given to the back of a chair is where the two upright pieces are straight, or nearly so, and the cross pieces also straight, and mortised into the side uprights. The legs of a chair are fixed in two ways. Either they are pegged up into the seat framing, as in light caned or bedroom chairs, or else the ends of the seat rails are mortised into the upper part or square shoulder of the leg, which is by far the strongest way of framing, and should be em¬ ployed for dining-room chairs, and whenever the seat of the chair is stuffed. Where the legs are only “ pegged ” it is necessary to strengthen them by rails from one to the other, but with a chair properly framed these are not essential, though of course they add to its strength, and, artistically, they give a balance to the chair and prevent it looking top-heavy. Besides, it enables us to dis- Introduction. 43 pense with a clumsier leg than necessary. And here allow us to remark of furniture collectively —we hold it to be an indisputable advantage, in these days when the area of ordinary houses is decidedly limited, and when periodical migration is so prevalent, that our household furniture should be as compact and light as may be com¬ patible with the laws of construction and sound taste. But we hasten on to an imaginary furnishing of the various rooms of our representative house, reserving further observations of a general cha¬ racter to find their place incidentally, while we consider whether certain rules may not be laid down for each apartment in turn. CHAPTER II. THE HALL. v The Hall or Vestibule is the first division of a house that meets the eye on entering, and we think should either be of a quiet and undemonstrative nature, or else it should give the key-note to the entire house. In any case the furniture as well as the decoration should be in a lower key than the rest of the house, never richer. Unless your Hall chance to be large, we recom¬ mend keeping the furniture as condensed as possible, and having as little of it as needful for the exigencies of an entrance-room or passage. A small side table, a chair or two, an umbrella- stand, some appliance for hats and coats, are the necessary requisites of a Hall. The hat and umbrella-stand may be combined, or that eminently practical invention, a rail and The Hall . 45 pegs fixed to the wall, may be substituted for the usually unsteady and inelegant hat-stand ; while a brass or bronzed rail fixed to the wall, with a painted zinc pan on the floor, will do duty for the umbrella-stand. Cast-iron hat-stands and hall tables, with plate glass mirrors and marble tops, we abhor: there is a chilly, skeleton, machine look about them, which strikes horror into us at the first glance. Iron is not the material out of which to make furniture, excepting bedsteads (for reasons which need not detain us) and Crystal Palace refresh¬ ment tables, for purposes of stability and perhaps cheapness. " , N You can never make an artistic room with iron furnituire; and, moreover, although the term “iron” is almost a synonym for strength, the iron Hall furniture offered for sale is none of the strongest, and when once broken in any part, cannot be made good except in the clum¬ siest way. The ordinary pattern hat-stand, however, look¬ ing like a series of outspread arms on an at¬ tenuated frame, is quite as bad in its way, being less steady and almost as ugly. There are some 46 The Art of Furnishing. good hat-stands now made, having at each end a quarter-circle rail for umbrellas, and a table between. The only thing is, the table or the umbrellas are generally in the way of the coats, and this seems the great difficulty to overcome in attempting to combine the objects of a hat- stand, hall table, and umbrella-stand, in one. We have seen a clever expansion of the idea of the original hat-rail, in which there are two parallel rails (one above the other), connected by ornamental turned pieces, or spindles. On the lower of these are fixed the hooks for coats or cloaks, while from the upper rail are pro¬ jected a couple of nine or ten-inch turned pieces, which support a light rod, on the same principle as the hat-rails affixed to the walls of public dining-rooms. The hats rest upon this project¬ ing rail, while the coats hang on the hooks or pegs beneath ; and we very much incline to the opinion that nothing more useful (though per¬ haps more elaborate) in the way of a practical hat and cloak-stand can well be devised. There are a great many hat - stands of considerable^ merit in point of abstract design, but which very indifferently answer their purpose, though they The Hall. 47 may be an effective piece of furniture while not in use. Simplicity of outline is preferable in Hall furniture. The choice of colour will depend upon the treatment of the walls. Light or dark oak, or American walnut, are useful woods, or stained black (ebonized) furniture, if the decoration ad¬ mits of it. We have seen a hall table, hat-rail, and bench of deal, painted a plain colour—say, olive - green or chocolate, suitable to the sur¬ rounding colouring—which is inexpensive and unobjectionable, though not of course so durable as a harder wood. If you have an outer and inner Hall, so much the better. It keeps the inner Hall more private and less draughty. The two are usually divided by glass doors, which give a good opportunity for introducing stained glass instead of the or¬ dinary ground glass. The best plan is to glaze the upper portion of the doors with transparent sheet or plate glass, and temporarily fix the stained glass (which should be in a separate frame) against the lower part of the glazed panels, sufficiently high to intercept the view from the outer hall. 48 The Art of Furnishing. The pattern stained should not entirely cover the glass, nor be too heavily coloured, or it will darken the light. If there are no doors, and your Hall is long enough, it may be divided off by curtains, suspended by a rod from the ceil¬ ing ; or, better still, a sheet of glass (two feet to three feet deep) may be framed in between the walls and ceiling, and the curtains suspended from beneath the glass. This will allow of light being thrown into the inner Hall. There can be little doubt that for the floor of a Hall nothing surpasses the encaustic tiles now so popular. They are easily kept clean, are cool, and afford an occasional relief from the hot carpeted rooms, and they are everlast¬ ing. The expense incurred in putting down a tiled floor is, however, a rather heavy item; and as the tiles cannot be removed without replacing the original floor, it is not worth doing unless we are sure of remaining in the house for a number of years. Next to a tiled floor we prefer the old-fashioned oil-cloth, even to the more recent inventions of kamptulicon, linoleum, and similar compounds of cork and indiarubber The Hall. 49 None of the latter have the smooth brilliant surface of oil - cloth, although they possess a greater softness and elasticity. There is room yet, in spite of the variety of patterns in floor-cloths, for some improvement. The favourite tile patterns are frequently very happy combinations of colour, and have a pleas¬ ing effect. The imitation will, however, weary us out soon, if it have not already done so ; and what we want are designs peculiar to floor-cloth itself, and not a pretentious imitation of some¬ thing costlier. Too many colours should be avoided, as also too small and scattered a pattern. Greater breadth of effect is obtained by a moderate uniformity of colour, such as chocolate and buff, Indian red and buff. The once much-used black and white marble floor-cloths are too grey and gloomy to suit the advanced love of colour among us, how¬ ever they might have satisfied a previous gene¬ ration. Matting, if coarse, holds the dust, and if fine will scarcely stand the rough wear of an entrance-hall. We have not unfrequently seen Brussel’s carpet used, but think it unsuitable, considering 5 50 The Art of Furnishing. the inevitable dust and traffic to which it is subject. It may be very charming to have a noiseless floor-covering over the hall, on which no footsteps reverberate, but for ourselves we prefer a hard cool floor in this part of the house. A word concerning the Stairs, which, from their peculiar elevation, are unavoidably notice¬ able, sometimes distressingly so, when they happen to face the entrance-doorway. These form an integral part of the Hall, and in many old houses still in existence in London the broad Staircase, with its massive handrail and balus¬ trades, is a remarkably handsome feature. Now- a-days, when space is costly, the Staircase has to be cramped into the closest possible compass, so that it behoves us to dn our best to mitigate the effects of this economy on the part of the builder. Nothing detracts more from the appear¬ ance of a Hall and Staircase than a narrow, mean stair - carpeting. Aim at a broad effect in the stairway. Axminster, Brussels, or self-coloured felts are the best for the purpose, and should cover the stair with the exception of a narrow margin on each side, which may be painted The Hall. 51 cream white, or stone colour, or darker shades if preferred, or the wall decoration seems to require it. The stair-carpet should, of course, be carefully chosen to harmonize with the general scheme of the Staircase and Hall. 5 * CHAPTER III. \ Egg I THE DINING-ROOM. We have already decorated the walls. It concerns us now to study the various pieces of furniture required, their positions and propor¬ tions, so as to leave room to move about; of what kind of wood, and consequently colour, they shall be, and of what their coverings. Also the colour and texture of our curtains and carpets. First of all as to the wood. If the walls are dull red you may have ebonized wood, or light oak, or very dark oak, but we cannot recommend mahogany, which is a kind of red orange, nor American walnut, which, unless ar¬ tificially darkened, is too weak a brown against red or crimson. Mahogany or walnut stand well against sage 53 The Dining-room. Qr olive-green, or dull grey-blue. Before de¬ ciding however on any particular wood, it is best to try the effect of it against the papers you intend to choose for the room. The furniture of a Dining-room should of course be more substantial than that of the Drawing-room, and most people will agree with us in claiming for this room at least a degree of simplicity, if not austerity. Redundancy of ornament, a lavish profusion of carving and scroll work, together with arabesque forms of decoration, introducing bunches of grapes and devotees of Bacchus, may be suggestive of un¬ limited feasting, and suitable to civic banquet¬ ing halls. But we are not always feasting, and the maxim that “ man eats to live,” is better represented by a plain, substantial, and homely kind of furniture, which, by its very simplicity* enhances the viands placed upon it. Nor need such furniture be wanting in beauty, for we would have it exquisitely proportioned and adapted to the wants of a Dining-room; and, albeit simple and severe in outline, it need not lack grace and refinement, nor, if desired, costly though unob¬ trusive and judiciously-restrained enrichment. 54 The Art of Furnishing. Take, for instance, the modern sideboard— the “ handsome mahogany sideboard, with noble plate-glass back.” To what particular feeling or feelings does the article in question appeal. We believe mainly to an ignorant sense of magnificence. The abundance of coarse unin¬ telligible scroll work and carving, the rich treacley polish hiding all defects of workman¬ ship, and above all the mass of plate glass expanding the room into twice its real dimen¬ sions, all contribute to produce a false im¬ pression of grandeur. Now, all these elements— carving, glass, and polish-—are valuable adjuncts when used with judgment. It is just because they have been wrongly used that they have earned the well-merited censure of indignant and able writers. The carving has been execrable ; the polish profuse to satiety, producing a vulgar glitter utterly inartistic; the huge plate-glass back in¬ securely fixed, frequently looking top-heavy, and of no practical use or beauty whatsoever, except to reflect the room and duplicate the tazza or bronzes with which the board is solemnly graced. 55 The Dining-room. The general form of the lower part of the sideboard is good, consisting as it mostly does of two pedestals or cupboards, with an open space between, and two or three drawers just under the top. The cupboards are contrived to hold bottles and sundry requisites of the table, and the drawers are convenient enough. The space between may be better utilized by a shelf across it,, which gives a nicer balance, and even small cupboards may be fitted in here, if more storage-room is wanted. It is, however, in the backs of our sideboards that there is most room for improvement. Here, as a rule, is a great waste of opportunity for effect and useful display. There can be no reason why a sideboard back should be a mere looking-glass, when it may be part curio-cabinet, part bookcase, and part mirror, combined, and at the same time, if well designed, none the less a sideboard back and an integral part of the sideboard itself. “ But I do not want books in my Dining-room,” says the man with a well-stocked library. Pos¬ sibly not, but in many a Dining-room, which is 56 The Art of Furnishing. also a sitting-room, a shelf or two neatly contrived in the sideboard back would be uncommonly useful for the few handy books too frequently scattered about the room. In this view of a sideboard, however, every one must be guided to some extent by his individual tastes. If you have no old china worth showing, do not have a sideboard with a lot of useless shelves. If you like plate glass you may have a good strip of it running the whole length of the side¬ board, not too high, say twenty-four inches for an ordinary room. If this is inserted in a frame, so as to stand some inches higher than the sideboard top, it will give all the reflection that is needed. It is better for lightness and variety of effect to divide the plate into three—the centre piece being longer than the end pieces. A bevelled edge is a great improvement to small pieces of plate glass, and gives a gemlike lustre and completeness to the glass. Tiles, painted leather, and carving in low relief, are all effective additions either to a sideboard or a cabinet, but they/require taste in adapting, and should always 57 The Dining-room . be subservient to the general aim of the work they are introduced upon, and never disturb the unity of the whole. Above all, ornamental details of this sort require to be well executed, and special knowledge and aptitude are necessary to make a good painter of tiles or decorative panels, as a perfectly natural rendering of either figures, flowers, or fruit is too obtrusive a mode of treatment, and brings the objects into undue prominence, thus producing a broken, scattered effect, instead of the unity we are pleading for. In choosing a sideboard, give the preference to straight lines—curves in the constructive lines most surely denote weakness, or occasion loss of room. Round-cornered furniture is perhaps a little less dangerous than square with small children, but this is its sole advantage. Avoid lumps of carving stuck on. They are easily detected, or if you are uncertain, ask the salesman the question. If he know he will scarcely fail to tell you. See that the doors and drawers are sensibly arranged, and show themselves for what they are, and are provided with handles by which to open them. The key is a bad substitute for a handle. 5 ^ The Art of Furnishing. Besides the sideboard, there are the table, chairs, sofa, chimney - glass, &c., all of which must harmonize with each other and with the sideboard, though not to the extent some people seem to think, there being something painfully stiff in the too precise matching of each piece of a “ set” of furniture in a room. A small table or fancy chair or cabinet of a different, though not discordant wood and colour, is often a great relief in a room otherwise fur¬ nished to match. A popular writer on the subject of furniture has derided with great vehemence the modern “ telescope ” dining-table, and offered several sug¬ gestions in its place. We do not find, however, any great revolution in the matter of expanding dining-tables, and are inclined to think their great convenience will prove a barrier to any widespread reform. We own the old Jacobean table looks better in a picture, but our rule is utility first, picturesque¬ ness second. The writer in question, however, very properly inveighs against the absurdly-turned leg of the modern table, with its huge, ungainly swellings and hollows. The turner’s art is get- 59 The Dining-room. ting into the right groove again, and better things in chair and table legs may be hoped for. Take care to get the best proportion and sizes possible for your dining-table, as much comfoit depends on this. If the top is too narrow, plates and dishes will be huddled together ; if too broad, the room space on either side will be infringed upon. The length of the table when closed should not be too great, or it will be cumbrous to move, and the extra leaves should be of convenient widths for extending the table to various lengths. In a squarish room the table need be only a foot or eighteen inches longer than broad. In a long room the length may be increased to suit the wants of the family and the look of the room. Half-circular ends to a table may make a more compact dinner party, but we prefer a square or parallelogram with the corners slightly rounded. A dining-room chair should be strong, not too heavy to move, and comfortable. The seat should be stuffed. A good horsehair stuffing makes a wholesomer seat to our mind than soft yielding springs. The back may be stuffed or not : it does not so much matter for comfort whether it be of 60 The Art of Furnishing. padding or wood, provided support is given to the spinal column of the sitter, for which purpose the back of the chair must not be too upright. Care should be taken also to have the seat of sufficient depth. An easy chair, as every one knows, is often a mockery. Sometimes, however, it happens that we get a real easy chair, and even then find it does not suit us. The truth is, a chair intended solely as a luxurious lounge is ill-adapted for steady and prolonged reading; while a chair in every way perfect as a comfortable reading arm-chair, will not conform to our wishes, nor bend itself to our shape when we throw down the book and slack every tendon and ligament in our body. The two things are not compatible except in a mechanical adjusting chair, but this reminds us too closely of the dentist to be usually agreeable. The best material for covering dining-chairs is undoubtedly morocco. There are inferior quali¬ ties in dressed, skins, sometimes very difficult to detect from the real thing. We recommend, if you wish to get morocco, that you stipulate for it in unmistakable terms. The Dining-roo 7 n. 61 If the salesman assures you a chair is covered in best leather, you may be sure it is not morocco, but roan, which has not the wear in it, though very similar in appearance. Utrecht velvet will wear longer than anything, hut it is hot, and clings to one’s garments. Morocco skins may be dyed almost any shade. Deep madder reds, fine browns, olive-greens, &c., are now mostly kept on hand by the leather mer¬ chants, and are useful colours for furnishing. The reader will bear in mind our previous remarks on chairs, and be guided by them in making choice for the Dining-room, where, indeed, a more severe outline is permissible than in the Drawing-room. By far the most useful form of sofa is that in which the back and two ends are on a level (on the same line of elevation). It may be con¬ venient to have one end rather higher than the other, but this raises a difficulty in the outline of the back, and will not make so good an appear¬ ance. All elaborate contortions in the shaping of sofas or couches should be avoided: they are always in bad taste, and where there is a margin of wood to show, render it exceedingly dangerous 62 The Art of Furnishing. to attempt to rest the head, for fear of coming into collision with one or other of these abnormal bumps. We have no objection to a good-sized chimney- glass over the mantelpiece, provided the frame is not all gilt. If is much better taste, and adds to the quietness and dignity of the apartment, to have the frame of wood, relieved with gilding, or black, or other inlay or staining. It will be patent to most of our readers that there has been a style of glass in vogue of late, which is not so much a glass as a combination of bevelled mirrors, small shelves (supported on brackets or columns), gilt or painted panels, &c., and which may be termed part cabinet, part glass, having for its main object the felicitous display of old china and nick-nacks. There is some sense and a good deal of fashion mixed up with the idea. * If well arranged, and with a view to the orna¬ ments in store for it, the thing may be quaint and effective, and the bits of mirror made to answer every purpose by being brought sufficiently on a level with the reflected beauty of the lady of the house, who will have the good sense The Dining-room. 63 to be attired consonantly with the period of her surroundings. Besides, a bird’s-eye view of the room can be had in a comparatively small mirror, which is really more impressive than the image of a broad expanse of wall or ceiling. As for the floor, we advise you, if you are likely to remain in the house, or if it is your own and you can afford it, to put down a border of wood parquetry. If not, there is a species of thin wood parquetry, which is less in price, and easily put down without cutting away the floor. Failing this, there is the linoleum floor-cloth, or there are many patterns in oil-cloth, but there is a hard forbidding aspect about oil-cloth which is somewhat unpleasant in a room. Coloured India mattings are sometimes used ; or the floor, if at all good, may be stained. The pity is that most floors are so rough and the boards so far apart, leaving yawning cracks between, that it is labour lost to attempt to get anything like a decent polished surface. We protest, however, on many grounds, against covering a room all over with carpet, and nailing it close into the corners and recesses. It harbours dirt which can never be thoroughly swept out, and 64 The Art of Furnishing. it renders the process of taking up the carpets unnecessarily troublesome and expensive, so that they are left down for, perhaps, a year or two, whereas it would be conducive to health if they were shaken more frequently. A margin of not less than fifteen inches (eighteen inches or two feet is better) will not contract the apparent size of your room very materially, and you can then have a square or oblong carpet, with a border, either made in one, as a “Turkey” or “Axminster” carpet, or seamed up, as in a “ Brussels.” A Turkey carpet should not be so large as to go under the furniture, but should stand clear of it. With Brussels it does not greatly signify, as the substance is much thinner. Brussels carpet is, without doubt, the cheapest and best wearing for ordinary purposes, though for a Dining-room a good Turkey carpet will prove in the long run an economical investment; and the difference to the tread is so great, that if once we get accustomed to it a Brussels carpet hence¬ forth loses its charm. Nevertheless, very excellent patterns are now made in the English Brussels and pile carpets, The Dining-room. 65 with suitable borders, and these are not a bad substitute, when cleverly put together, for a seam¬ less carpet. From an art point of view, a carpet cannot be treated otherwise than as a background to the furniture, quite as much, if not more, than the walls, excepting in a room where no furniture is, where alone we could tolerate those gorgeous Aubusson carpets (looking like a magnificent des¬ sert plate), with a large expanse of white ground, and bouquets, wreaths, baskets, and what not in the centre and borders. Indian and Persian carpet-weavers are still our masters and teachers in the art of combining colours, so as to form one harmonious plateau of bloom. We do not, however, object to a pattern being in some degree marked and obvious, or to a geometric design, if not too hard; but avoid a carpet where the lines or patterns cut it up into detached fragments and spaces, destroying all sense of unity and breadth, which in a Dining¬ room are specially desirable qualities. The border is sometimes better for being clearly marked off from the centre carpet, instead of flowing into it. 6 66 The Art of Furnishing. The window, or windows, as the case may be, next claim attention. Ordinarily a small neat brass rod or pole, with simple spherical ends, is a rational and effective termination to the window curtains, proclaiming its use, and giving a quiet brilliancy where the light often strikes least. Singular fancies have been perpetrated in the matter of cornice pole-ends, but the strange hal¬ lucination that bunches of tin grapes are the natural product of a rigid brass pole, has by this time, we hope, been exploded. The thin brass stamped cornice is also a flimsy and unworthy contrivance, and produces unpleasant sensations, similar to those evoked by the contemplation of conspicuously false jewellery. Light wooden poles, to match the furniture in colour, or black, with very little gold or colour (say Indian red or vermilion) introduced, are suitable. A gilt cornice in a Dining - room is equally out of place with the gilt chimney-glass. A wood cornice picked out with gilding is better. A few words on curtains. Look round your room. If the carpet and walls are full of pattern and various colours, the curtains will be best of The Dining-room. 67 one colour only, or two shades of the same colour. There must be repose somewhere in a room. If the curtains are full of pattern and colour, the walls or the carpet should be quiet. Longi¬ tudinal stripes in a curtain may give height, but they add no grace, and you lose the variety and play of effect on the folds which is obtained by horizontal or cross stripes. If a curtain is bor¬ dered, the border should never cross the top of the curtain, but only run on the two sides and bottom. It often happens that curtains of some plain self-coloured stuff, serge, cloth, or velvet, produce a better effect than any variegated ma¬ terial. Curtains of some quiet soothing hue, hanging in natural folds, catching the light on their edges, and deepening away into richer shades of colour, will sometimes give a singularly simple and artistic finish to a room, otherwise taste¬ fully furnished, which the most elaborately wrought hangings would fail to effect. This is the more striking where the landscape or outlook is rich in natural tints and forms, for then the view is heightened by the quiet un- 6 * 68 The Art of Furnishing. obtrusive colour of the curtains which practi¬ cally frame it in. With narrow windows, the French style may be adopted of letting the curtains meet at the top, and then drawing them sharply away to each side, and confining them with hands of the same stuff, at the height of about four feet from the ground. The fashion is too arti¬ ficial to please us, and with wide windows should not be attempted. We sum up the hints on the furnishing of a Dining-room by a short description of a room we have in our mind. The walls, above the dado, are papered with an olive-toned paper, or, rather, the ground is actually a very dull slaty-blue, over which are trailed the stems and leaves of the orange tree, with the rounded fruit in various sizes and stages of maturity, from the tender green to the warm orange-yellow. The soft amber-white blossom of the orange tree is interspersed, and little birds in azure plumage peep in and out among the leaves and fruit. The whole colouring, however, of this paper is so deliciously cool and subdued, that scarcely one thing stands out above another, The Dining-room. 6.9 so that it is some time before you grasp the whole of the design ; and when you have made it out, it is not easy to trace the repeats in the pattern, so cleverly are the details varied and interwoven. Below this is a dado of plain flock paper of a deep crimson, almost ruby tone, and divided off from the upper paper by a broad black and gold line. The dado paper is not put on in widths, as the joins are sure to show more or less in a plain flock, but is run in one con¬ tinuous length round the room. The ceiling is toned down to a deep cream colour. The furniture is of light oak, of almost primi¬ tive simplicity of form, but substantial and useful, and not too large for the room. The sideboard has no glass, but a shelf runs along the low straight back, on which stand various pieces of plate and glass, in daily use, an old silver urn of exquisite classic form being a prominent ob¬ ject. Over the- mantelpiece is a low mirror framed in oak, and with a shelf above, on which stand a few bits of Oriental china. The chairs and couch are also of light oak, 70 The Art of Furnishing. rather severe in style, with seats stuffed mode¬ rately hard in bronze green leather, which con¬ trasts well against the deep-red dado. The chairs have a stuffed cross-piece or strap about eight inches broad across the back, and we think would be improved by another rail of some sort midway, as a support to the back. There is an arm-chair, with a rather upright back—very comfortable to read in, and provided with a wedge-shaped cushion, to render it more easy as a lounge. Also another chair with arms, a kind of writ¬ ing-chair, of a somewhat pontifical shape, quite out of order with the rest, though in the same wood, and somehow or other seeming a kind of relief, A small round table in a dark figured wood— pollard oak or amboyna—likewise forms a plea¬ sant variation. The carpet is Brussels, Persian in style, and composed of various colours—red, blue, green, orange, &c.—'the bloom colour at a distance being a kind of rose purple. The carpet has a distinctly marked border, and is oblong in shape, except at the window The Dining-room. 7 1 end of the room, where it runs into a three- sided bay. The floor margin round the carpet is covered with linoleum, printed in a clever imitation of wood parquet, which, although we cannot defend it in principle, has an excellent effect. The curtains (it was summer time) were some unbleached copy of guipure lace in squares and diamonds, with a scrolled border, and suspended from a small brass pole, which was carried round the bay window. A brass gaselier, evidently copied from an old Flemish model, hung from the centre of the ceiling. There were no pictures on the walls: they were not needed, although the paper was sub¬ dued enough to admit of them. The entire effect was that of a quiet and comfortable home-like room, with nothing of dul- ness or monotony; and the warm dado added a richness calculated to counteract the depressing influence of the gloomiest sky. The whole thing, moreover, was in good taste, and any ruffled feelings which you might have had on entering must involuntarily have been 7 2 The Art of Furnishing. smoothed down before you had been seated ten minutes. It was a fair illustration of an every-day useful sort of Dining-room, and of the care and thought that may be brought to bear upon it. CHAPTER IV. THE DRAWING-ROOM. This room has little in common with the Dining¬ room, and should be less severe in its treatment, and suited as nearly as can be to the varied purposes of recreation, social and intellectual, uniformly associated with its name. No gay or gloomy conclave gathers round the festive board—no really serious work is supposed to be done here ; the sweets of life only are dis¬ tilled, the flowers of life gathered. People do not want, in the ordinary conver¬ sation and desultory employment of this room, to sit up as if they were at a dinner - table, therefore it is useless to have a lot of stiff high chairs. Three or four of a sort will do no harm. Beyond this it is best to vary the seats as much as possible, taking care they are not too high ; 74 The Art of Furnishing. also that one or two are sufficiently high in the seat for elderly gentlemen, who object to being dropped into a seat from which they find it impossible to lift themselves without assistance. Convenient ottomans in out-of-the-way angles and recesses are of use, as they relieve the centre of the room. The floor of a Drawing-room should never be too crowded with furniture, and the old-fashioned centre table is an intolerable nuisance, and much better replaced by the centre ottoman, if there is room for one—not unless. Unlike the Dining-room, we apprehend no particular reason exists for a single broad effect here. On the contrary, we would rather aim to break up the room, if this is not already dofie by the builder in the formation of the walls. We much prefer not being able to see all over a Drawing-room at a glance, and the prettiest room can always be made out of a somewhat irregular planning of the walls. Sometimes there happens to be a smaller room communicating, which, besides being a convenient addition v gives an opportunity of an effective side view, and relieves The Drawing-room. 75 the monotony of the four walls by which we are ordinarily hemmed in, and from which there is no escape except by way of the door. It is snug, no doubt, to have but one outlet to a room, but we cannot help thinking there is a pleasanter sense of freedom in being able to enter at one door and pass out at another; therefore we say do not be afraid of a house not built quite on the square or four-wall principle, provided the accommodation is in no way interfered with, and that valuable space is not sacrificed to picturesque arrangement. As it will happen, however, in the present state of building, that the best we can hope for is to have rooms of fair size and sensibly proportioned, it will be wiser to leave out of the question a prettily broken form of room, and endeavour to do the best we can within the four walls usually allotted to us. We have before remarked the use of wall ottomans and seats placed in convenient niches, and we repeat that the seats in a Drawing-room should commence near the wall line, so as to leave as large an area of the floor as possible for after filling up. Chairs ranged round a wall are not elegant, but ottomans, settees, and divans j 6 The Art of Furnishing. find their place here naturally, and afford a pleasant view of the room, while the intervening furniture helps the sense of distance, and carries 1 the eye gently away to the opposite wall. All that tends to soften too hard and prominent outlines; all that lends distance to effects that would otherwise be harshly and painfully near; all that gives variety and an indescribable charm to the mind and sense, should be cultivated in the fitting up of a drawing-room. A Dining-room may be set out with as much precision as the aisles and pews of a church. A Drawing-room admits of as much freedom of arrangement as we like, under certain graceful restraints. The two rooms certainly differ as widely as a London square differs from a tastefully laid out garden, with natural winding paths threading their way between trees and shrubs and mounds. We propose to regard what may be termed the set pieces of furniture in a Drawing-room (not the chairs) as so many points of interest; and to this end, apart from purposes of practical utility, they should be dispersed about the walls, and not crowded at any one part. The Drawing-room. 7 7 It will thus be easier to divide attention, and to counteract that centralisation of interest which sometimes occurs, and is mostly undesirable. Choose out a convenient spot for your piano¬ forte, as much in the dark as possible, as it is likely to be an eyesore unless you go to the expense of a specially made case. Then consider the best form of cabinet for your room, and, if possible, plant it at the other end away from the piano. A moderate-sized writing-table or occasional-table may stand in a recess or window. If in a win¬ dow, leave room to get round it. One or two small tables about the room are very useful for many purposes besides the “ five o’clock tea.” A small cabinet for music will generally fill in somewhere along the wall, and leaves no excuse for music to be scattered about untidily till it is torn or lost. Avoid rickety tables and flower-stands that are apt to be overturned by the touch of a passing dress. A flower-stand or a fern-case can be made as firmly as necessary, and your friends may be saved the mortification of inadvertently, and through no fault of their own, upsetting a valu¬ able cargo. 73 The Art of Furnishing. If a room seems too long, or you want to break the line somewhere, a low folding screen, with painted or embroidered panels in a light frame¬ work (wicker or perforated wood), may be intro¬ duced with good effect. It has been a fashion of late years to fill up the end of a room, or part of one side, sometimes both, with a voluminous arrangement of gilding and plate glass, termed a console glass. For¬ merly this was supported by a console table en suite, with a marble top, but latterly the table has been superseded by a jardiniere for flowers or ferns, which is also made to do duty as a seat when required, by removing the flowers and sub¬ stituting a stuffed top or lid. The effect, when filled with flowers, may be pretty, but the plants always seem to us out of place and unnatural, and, individually, we object to full-length views of ourself at every turn. But this is a matter of opinion. A cabinet with a central mirror, enough for all purposes of reflection, would be far better. You cannot put much of yourself, except your image, into a sheet of glass, however large, but you can impress a good deal of your character into and The Drawing-room. 79 upon a cabinet. Not, however, the chijfonniere of well-known form, with its plate-glass back and marble top. This may have been a tolerably useful kind of clumsy cupboard (though you generally had to open the doors by gripping a piece of the carving with your finger tips), but we are glad our acquaintanceship with this un¬ comfortable piece of furniture is limited to the short period of our sojourn at the sea-side. It was at one of our east-coast resorts that most of this was written, and in the room we occupied, a chijfonniere , such as just described, played a prominent part. The back was fitted with plate glass, and also the doors in the cup¬ board below, so that you got a reflection of your legs and boots apparently walking up a steep incline of tapestry Brussels. The key, so the landlady informed us, was lost, and as there was no handle of any kind, it was a matter of some ingenuity, and required no little control of temper, to open the doors at all. Yet it will probably never occur to her to have a knob or handle fixed in, for fear of doing something outrageous, and marring the look of this elegant work of art. 8o The Art of Furjiishing. A better form and purer style of cabinet, with the ends carried round in a quarter circle, suc¬ ceeded the rococo chiffonniere. This was no doubt copied from some of the best existing examples of renaissance art, and we have no fault to find with it as far as it goes, but it does not go far enough. It stops short of the two essentials of utility and variety. The same form has been manufactured and sent out by hundreds and by thousands, with very trifling alterations in colour and details — fancy wood being replaced latterly by black and gold. The centre door would have a china plaque in “Watteau” style of delineation, or, in the quieter sorts, of imitation “ Wedgwood.” The end doors were probably of glass, bent to the curve of the top, causing an awkward reflection of the light, which prevented the few cups and saucers or other ornaments from being seen. Still this was a harmless enough cabinet, and a great improvement on what had gone before. We think it a mistake, however, to keep all the pieces of furniture so low, as it is impossible to make a picturesque room without some va¬ riety of height and diversity of shadow. The Drawing-room. 81 The only tall things admitted amongst modern Drawing-room furniture (saving, of course, cer¬ tain wall ornaments, which seem necessary adjuncts to a party or ball) have been the mirrors, but then these have no substance, and merely represent so much space in a gold frame. The imaginary space may be peopled with visionary forms, but still it is space, and too much of it is, in an artistic sense, worse than useless; though in a small room it may give a sensation of breathing room, and claim some concession on that score alone. To turn aside for a moment on the subject of unirrors, we took exception just now to the colossal piece of glass reaching from the ceiling nearly to the floor, at the base of which is placed a convertible flower-stand and seat. There is, however, no reason why some ar¬ rangement of an ottoman or sofa, with a back of sufficient height to catch the head, and sur¬ mounted by a mirror of moderate dimensions, should not be devised, and prove both useful and effective. The mirror may of course be in¬ dependent of the seat, and may be in part 7 82 The Art of Furnishing. mirror—with side panels filled in with decora¬ tive embroidery, painting, or any of the multi¬ farious handiwork of China and Japan, which can be procured so cheaply. Deftly twisted sconces in brass may be fixed each side the frame. To return to our cabinet—it requires no stretch of imagination, if we once lay aside preconceived ideas of a certain stereotyped form, to compre¬ hend that a cabinet may be so constructed as to display any ornaments placed upon it to the very best advantage, and this in itself, perhaps, would lead to a more conscientious selection of orna¬ mental gew-gaws than generally prevails; since, in the heterogeneous confusion of Bohemian glass and Birmingham lacquer, aided by the mere¬ tricious reflection of plate glass, it matters little, so long as we have plenty of glitter, by what means it is produced. Smaller ornaments should not be displayed near the ground, but on shelves or in cases more on a level with the eye, the larger and more massive pieces being reserved for the lower shelves. Part of the cabinet may be enclosed by a solid panelled door or doors: it is useful, 83 The Drawing-room. and gives a balance to the whole, or if you want cupboard-room, the lower part may be entirely enclosed. This is a question of convenience. A curtain of velvet or embroidered cloth is sometimes introduced. It is decorative, and it may be considered untidy. This is a question of taste. The more you can break up a cabinet into an orderly arrangement of parts, scientifically pro¬ portioned, the greater will be the pleasure derived from its after contemplation : the task of taking in the whole at a glance will be rendered diffi¬ cult, if not impossible, and if the recondite nature of the lines is equalled by corresponding subtlety of colour, and crowned by a truly artistic arrangement of the contents, we shall have a near approach to a perfect drawing-room cabinet. Every one will not have old or even modern china or Venetian glass with which to decorate their rooms, but we hold that a cabinet may be made to contain books, portfolios, music, trinkets, and portable drawing-room property of various sorts, and yet be an artistic piece of furniture, and infinitely more useful than its more pre- y # 84 The Art of Furnishing. tentious neighbour. As a rule, silvered glass should occupy some portion of the back; if in small pieces, the edges should be bevelled; in large sizes it is not so imperative. We prefer, even in a drawing-room cabinet, that the outline, or “ sky blotch,” as an archi¬ tect would term it, should be bounded by straight lines rather than curves—though an arc or arbi¬ trary curve may sometimes be a relief. There should, however, be some flow of lines, at once graceful and appropriate, within the bounding lines, and the artist may be allowed a wide margin with regard to the internal details. Nevertheless it must be borne in mind that, in designing furniture of this sort, well-studied proportion is far more than mere linear dex¬ terity. It might be assumed that such inevitable concomitants of drawing-room furniture as the occasional or the sofa-table could safely be left with the facile producers of this useful article ; but, alas, though the markets are overstocked with fancy tables of various sorts and sizes, three-fourths of them may safely be rejected on the ground of general debility. The Drawing-room. 85 We have sadly fallen out of the old-fashioned rut of table making, and, tiring of first prin¬ ciples, our designers and manufacturers have given the reins to fancy, quite regardless of whither that' erratic goddess would land them. A table is nothing if not firm, and yet this primary condition is seldom fulfilled. The basis of simple construction is seen in the kitchen table, and with considerable modifi¬ cations the same formation is applicable to a much higher class of table. Instead, however, of studying “ eternal fit¬ ness,” we endeavour to balance our table on the slenderest possible columns, reduced to a mini¬ mum of strength by excessive carving or turn¬ ing away of the wood where it ought to be left of a fair thickness. From these columns spring elegant carved branches or claws, and for fear so vulgar a thing as a castor should be visible, a hole is sometimes scooped almost through the wood, and a castor (much too small) is in¬ serted. The consequence is, one of the castors soon gives way under the weight of the table, which thus acquires that chronic limp so often observable. 86 The Art of Furnishing. The stand of a- table may be made in various ways. The chief point is to get the top sup¬ ported all round and firmly, so that no ordinary pressure will overturn it. The legs, or stand, should never project beyond the extreme line of the top, and in a writing-table should not be in the way of one’s knees. The legs of a square or oblong table need not necessarily be placed at the extreme cor¬ ners. If framed a little way in, they will often look better. It is also well to brace them together by some sort of cross rails near the ground. We fear this mode of strengthening has been discontinued because of the difficulty it presents in packing. It is obvious that whereas a couple of four-legged tables will pack one within the other, the cross rails render this economy of space impossible, and to the cheap furniture-monger no doubt this is a con¬ sideration, independently of the extra expense of the rails themselves. We doubt, however, the wisdom of allowing a parsimonious utilitarianism to gain a morbid ascendency over us. Moreover, people have no business to be for ever moving from house to The Drawing-room . & 7 house. Migratory habits are unfortunately in¬ separable from life in crowded cities, but we cannot build our houses as quickly as the birds, and home, and home associations are the growth of years and not of months. At least, let us cherish the theory (if in practice it is often contradicted) of a permanent abode, round which moss-grown memories cling, and whose inanimate belongings have an im¬ parted vitality and an interest not their own. We like the idea of people and house and fur¬ niture growing old together ; and, similarly, we prefer that young married people should have new furniture, and not scour the country for old musty bureaus and chiffonnihes of defunct ancestors. But this is a digression. There is, however, a distinct advantage in these struts or rails from leg to leg of a table or chair, as they enable it to resist a lateral pressure, and prevent dis¬ location of joints, or that sudden snapping which sometimes occurs if a chair is jerked sharply down upon one leg. A table may be simply described as a horizontal plane resting on vertical (or nearly vertical) supports. 88 The Art of Furnishing. These supports may sometimes be connected by horizontal bars or rails from one to the other. Thus a table consists, broadly, of two “ °r at most —three parts. If the supports are of sufficient strength, and firmly fixed to the top, we have a table answering its main purpose. Details of ornament may then be considered. Practically, however, there is a very large proportion of ornamental drawing-room tables at which you dare not sit down to write a letter, or on which you hesitate to place a lamp. In fact, we habitually approach a certain class of tables with great caution, for fear an acci¬ dental touch should communicate a disagree¬ able tremor throughout the ornaments and nick- nacks placed thereon. It is beyond our purpose to attempt to eluci¬ date the practical putting together of tables and chairs, and even were we to do so, the amateur might find it well-nigh impossible to unravel the mode of construction in the next thing of the kind he came across. If, for instance, we insist (which we do not) upon the cross rails of a chair or table being The Drawing-room. 89 mortised right through the upright and pinned on the other side, it would seem as though we had here a guarantee of sound workmanship, and yet we have found this method of Jacobean framing cleverly imitated by a piece glued on to represent the end of the rail coming through, while the hypocritical rail itself is secured by a peg or a nail. And this state of things pervades the cheap work. Whatever may have been said or written to the contrary, rest assured that sound well- made furniture will be unavoidably dearer than the more showy but less intrinsic sorts. We do not say this is the case with the more elaborate furniture of the vulgar kind. No doubt a sound and well-designed article of solid wood may be made for the same or less than one badly made and designed, but full of senseless carving and wild contortions of outlining. But, in the matter of mere cheapness, the lower class of East-end furniture bears off the palm. The manufacturers in that locality have cultivated the science of economic construction to the extreme verge of cheapness, and unless the British public will be satisfied with more solidity 90 The Art of Furnishing. and less superficial gloss, and perhaps a slight advance even then in the tariff, the quality of the supply will not be any better, though it may reflect the general improvement in ornamental design. It takes a good while to become a tolerable judge of furniture, so that the safest plan is to go to some house of established reputation. A chimney-glass is perhaps the most sensible thing to put over the mantelpiece. It is not easily affected by the dust and smoke from the fire, and being fixed at a good height from the floor, is not open to the objection raised against the console glass. Here, however, there is room for the exercise of ingenuity, in a departure from the mere sheet of plate glass, and the substitution of something more varied and effective. The fireplace, with its projecting breastwork, is a fine basis for the erection of an imposing superstructure. Sometimes the mantelpiece and glass are made as one united whole, the entire structural parts being of wood. Where the mantelpiece exists, it may be cased in with wood, if preferred, and above it you may con- The Drawing-room. 91 struct an “ over mantel ” of varied parts, light or heavy, with or without shelves, and with the top slightly overhanging, in the form of a cove or arch. Gilding, painting, or simply well- chosen coloured fragments of paper, leather, or stuff, will do duty in panelling out the various parts, while a good-sized mirror should occupy the centre. It is to be hoped that the subject of marble mantelpieces will receive more attention at the hands of builders, as they are mostly very difficult things to bring into the general scheme of a room. There are other incidental items, such as corner shelves, girandoles, &c., &c., which we must leave to an awakened taste to determine and to apply, while we turn our attention to the important questions of carpeting and cur¬ taining. A favourite plan, where parquetry is too ex¬ pensive, is to cover the floor all over with India matting, or plain coloured felting, and after¬ wards spread foreign rugs and mats about here and there. It lacks unity, though there is a refreshing 9 2 The Art of Furnishing. coolness about the look of the matting, espe¬ cially in hot weather. There- can, however, be no possible objection to bordering the room with white or coloured matting, and laying down a centre carpet, as recommended for the Dining-room. It has a bright and clean appearance, and musical sounds strike clearer and sharper than in a room car¬ peted all over. Light-coloured carpets we must again protest against. There are some whitish Persian car¬ pets, but the white is invariably creamy toned, often a deep buff, never the sepulchral white of an English Brussels carpet. Gaudy, bright-hued carpets are a complete mistake, as also large, geometric, or spotty patterns. Remember, al¬ ways, a carpet is a background to all the colours that will be seen against it, and take care that it is subdued in tone, and that the colours are well blended, as by this means they will counteract any too positive predominant hue. A room is incomplete without curtains: there is always an unfinished look until the hard out¬ line of the windows is broken by the soft folds The Drawing-room. 93 of drapery, which catch the full force of the light from outside, and disperse it in modified form over the room. Besides their use in subduing the intense glare of shadowless light, there is of course their practical aspect in keeping out draughts, and closing in the room at night, which important functions should perhaps have been placed first. Curtains depend for artistic effect mainly on three things, viz.—colour, texture, and aptitude for falling into soft and graceful folds. Hence silks, cloths, velvets, and serges are all suitable materials. The highly-glazed chintzes of former days, though admirable in many respects, were ludicrously stiff and angular, and we gladly wel¬ come, in their place, the soft cretonne cloth, with its wonderful variety of pattern and colour. Mixed colours and chequered patterns are less necessary in the curtains than in the walls and carpets; and frequently, as we remarked in con¬ sidering the Dining-room, after an exhaustive search for a well-designed patterned curtain that will suit our room, we are obliged to fall back on some self-coloured stuff, and confess that it answers every purpose. There is, however, no I 94 The Art of Furnishing. binding rule here, nor are we in the least averse to a figured material so long as it is not spotty, but what is known as an “ all over,” or well-covered pattern, and not too violent in contrasted colours. The Spanish cross striped materials in brilliant reds and yellows are rather the exception than the normal standard for curtains. There is, in the present day, an overwhelming supply of cur¬ tain stuffs of every colour and texture, many of which do equal credit to the ceaseless activity of brain and loom, so that we need scarcely point to any in particular; and general principles affecting design in wall-papers and carpets will sufficiently indicate the line to ob¬ serve in approving or rejecting any pattern. Many people confine themselves to muslin or lace curtains for the Drawing-room, but, al¬ though this is a-fairly passable escape from a difficulty, we cannot consider it more than a temporary measure. Lace curtains behind the heavier stuff curtains give a certain dress and finish to a room, but by themselves they are too weak and transparent. Of valances we prefer to say very little, ex- 95 The Drawing-room. cept that we abominate the grandiose bullion fringes with wooden skittle pendants, encased in twisted yellow silk. Yet we have known even these, worked in quiet colours harmonising with the curtains, and kept to some very simple outline, to look exceedingly well, and by no means barbaric. The simpler and more natural a valance is the better. Our own opinion is that it is seldom needed. A light brass pole again answers the purpose as an ornamental curtain rod. Cornices neces¬ sitate valances, and frequently bring the window into excessive prominence, and detach it from the rest of the walls in a manner injurious to the '-general effect. A word on window blinds will not be out of place here. The expedients for screening our windows seem to be various, and the window blind of “ the day ” is, true to its name, rapidly superseded by the window blind of the day after to-morrow. And yet we think the question may be resolved within very narrow limits. The purpose of a blind is to screen the room from outsiders, and to 96 The Art of Furnishing. modify and subdue the light. And these points seem best met by the usual white linen blind, or the Venetian blind formed of parallel laths of wood, which turn on their axis, and admit air and light as required. We wonder the tints of the Venetian blind have been so few, when by painting the laths a certain tone, a refraction of rays might be ob¬ tained, of great benefit to the room in which they fall; instead of which a powerful green is the usual colour adopted, which often completely nullifies the tone of the walls and curtains, and shuts out the light no more effectually than a paler tint would do, seeing that the laths themselves are opaque. However, in the absence of Venetian, the white linen blind is the simplest means of softening the light. All coloured blinds, as usually made, are too strong, and overlay everything with their own reflection. Where low half-blinds are required to windows overlooked from the road, the open wickerwork, plain or gilded, is as inoffensive as anything. All wire or gauze blinds are dismally ugly. Ground glass is office-like and monotonous, and those The Drawing- room. 97 unfortunate dried ferns transfixed, between two sheets of glass are worse than all. A pretty fashion obtains of employing stained glass, set in small cross-bar frames of lead, gilded. The pattern is often a simple rosette and flower alternated, and the effect is good both inside the room and from the street. And now let us take a rapid survey of the Drawing-room we have attempted theoretically to furnish. The door is flung open, we cross the cool Chinese matting, and step upon the velvety pile or Persian carpet. Progress is easily made across the room, or by a circuitous path, skirting divans, easy chairs, and small tables. We sink into — no, if you please, we object to sink waist - deep into a mass of luxurious stuffing—we seat ourselves comfortably on one of the aforesaid lounges, and glance round the room. The walls, mirrors, ottoman seats, pictures, seem to form one continuous, harmonious, though varied, panorama of pleasing forms and colours, mingling and contrasting. The pieces of furniture are not instantly received on the retina of the eye, as so many inky blotches on a white wall, 8 98 The Art of Furnishing. but slowly, and as the eye becomes accustomed to the room, one by one the different points come out, and by degrees their various forms and com¬ ponent parts are unfolded. Bits of colour, unobserved at first, starlike appear. The cur¬ tains also fall into the scheme of the decoration, and merge their individuality for the good of the room. The open windows, shaded from the heat by the gently sloping sun-blinds, are filled with flowers, whose fragrance scents the air ; and when -we take our leave, it is with a feeling that there is an indescribable something about the room which soothes and gratifies our mind and senses, though, for the life of us, we cannot tell precisely the causes which contribute to our satisfaction. Such, we believe, is the effect produced by every thoughtfully and artistically furnished room, and further acquaintance with the practical arrange¬ ment of such a room would only confirm the opinion. CHAPTER V. THE LIBRARY. If this room is a library proper, its arrangement will naturally take the form of a series of conve¬ nient book-shelves, closely and methodically filled. These will range round the walls, while the middle of the room will be occupied by a heavy writing-table, fitted with drawers and cupboards for the reception of papers and manuscripts. Nine times out of ten, however, the library—-so called is also the smoking-room, morning-room, school-room, or ante-room, and, when this is the case, it is a mere farce to treat it with the austere solemnity of a bond fide library. It may then partake of a mixed character, and become a pleasant and useful room. Book-shelves are better neither too high nor too low. If too near the ground the books get 8 * ioo The Art of Furnishing. covered with dust, and if too high they can only be reached by a chair or steps. Glass doors, although we think they do not improve the look, are yet indispensable if the books are w T orth pre¬ serving. If the book-shelves are not too high, the upper shelf, with a raised back, will be useful for ornaments. For economy, deal, stained black or painted any shade, might be used in this room, and indeed a certain rude effective style is permissible in a nondescript room, which would be out of place elsewhere. CHAPTER VI. THE BEDROOMS. The furniture of a bedroom presents no great difficulties in the way of selection, the different pieces being dictated by the requirements of rest * and of the toilet. Modern bedroom furniture, however, especially the commonest sort in mahogany or birchwood, still comprises some of the worst examples of constructive design. The dressing-table and washstand are often a mass of coarse and extravagant curves, the legs resembling the fore-legs of a bull-dog, but having none of their sturdiness. An oval mirror, supported by clumsily carved brackets, completes the “ elegant toilet table.” The old “Queen Anne” style of table, of which this is perhaps a gross caricature, was a vastly 102 The Art of Furnishing. different thing, the curved lines having some beauty and restraint, and the legs never being scrolled so recklessly as to threaten the tenacity of the grain. If the “ curved ” style is to be carried out at all, it must be well and carefully done, or it is better left alone. For ordinary purposes, a sensible form of turned work is sufficient for the legs of the washstand, dressing-table, chairs, &c., and pre¬ ference should be given to straight lines in the furniture itself. Choose solid woods in preference to veneer, as, in veneered furniture, you never know how much common deal is underneath. Walnut, ash, oak, mahogany, birch, or pine may be used. Bear in mind the general colour of a wood has more to do with the effect of your room than any fanciful grain or figure it may possess. Wooden knobs to doors and drawers are in¬ elegant appendages, and most likely owe their origin to the small cost at which they can be produced. Brass or bronzed handles are less in the way, and form ornamental items. There The Bedrooms. 103 is no necessity, however, for too ostentatious a display of brass. Simplicity in the furniture of a bedroom, is, we think, desirable, rather than richness or profuse ornamentation. The bedstead was formerly of wood, now it is generally of brass or iron. The wood bedstead more completely furnishes the room, but it is usually more expensive, and less easily kept clean than the metallic bedstead. In iron and brass the best patterns to adhere to are those formed by parallel bars and circles. The bedstead is seldom now so closely cur¬ tained and canopied as formerly, and wisely so, since, except at the head, curtains are worse than useless, as they prevent the free access of air. Many people abjure curtains altogether. The floor of this room should certainlv never be carpeted to the walls; a broad margin should be left all round, which may be covered with matting, or any of the soft warm floor-cloths made of cork and indiarubber. A centre carpet of Brussels, Kidderminster, or felt, can then be thrown down. CHAPTER VII. ON STYLE. The question whether a house should be fur¬ nished throughout in one style, or whether each room may represent a different period, is easily disposed of. A house should be furnished throughout harmoniously, and not be a series of violent contrasts in style. A house is the home of an individual possess¬ ing character, mind, will, and, it is to be hoped, certain definite principles; and therefore, except in the case of persons of quixotic temperament and kaleidoscopic mental vision, should not be a succession of “Jack-in-the-box” surprises. How far, however, analogous points of various styles may be blended without incongruity, is not so easily defined. Just now, when every phase of European and On Style. 105 Asiatic art is being laid under contribution, we see mixtures of oriental, mediaeval, and renaiss¬ ance ornament grafted on to forms hovering between Classic and Gothic, yet producing a modern English medley, often of high excellence as a work of art. These varied elements of un¬ equal affinity need, however, the sound judgment and bold genius of a master mind and hand to weld into a compact and homogeneous whole. That purity of style which insists on every article, even to the time-piece and fire-irons in a room, having the same points of family like¬ ness, is a dull, narrow, uncongenial thing, and those who advocate it fail to recognise the broad principles underlying all true art what¬ soever. Nevertheless, the eye must accustom itself to see clearly when and where to introduce fur¬ niture or trifles of a different order into a room already furnished in a certain style. One thing is certain, that, whereas good fur¬ niture of different periods will not unfrequently stand side by side without prejudice to either style, and that notwithstanding a difference of centuries in point of age, it is utterly impossible io6 The Art of Furnishing. to reconcile a badly-designed thing with either the one or the other. There is no ground of assimilation. A really serious source of discord in a room is a want of balance or consistency; silk cur¬ tains and woollen furniture coverings ; a rare marquetry cabinet flanked by clumsy featureless chairs of the early Victorian era; and, in orna¬ ments, Bohemian glass mixed up with old Vene¬ tian. There must be an equality maintained throughout. The room must be set in a certain key, and, if allowed to fall out of it for the sake of variety, should speedily return into its normal channel. I CHAPTER VIII. MISCELLANEA. Your fenders, fire-irons, and gaselier or chande¬ lier, wall sconces, and ornamental items, should all have the same careful and discriminate se¬ lection. The improvement in metal-work has been very marked of late, so that there is some chance of being able to secure a sensible form of fender. The gaselier, with some notable exceptions, still retains many objectionable features. It is, however, infinitely improved. We see few of the gaunt extending triple arms of bygone days; the lights are more compact, often a cluster of five or more ; and we think the disagreeable in¬ vention of balance weights and telescopic action is growing into disfavour. The vases and other ornaments which adorn io8 The Art of Furnishing. our rooms too often fall into our hands without our having a word in their selection, and in¬ grate indeed should we be to evince the faintest shadow of discourtesy in our reception of the smallest token of esteem or affection. The principle which regards the motive of a gift is deeper than that which contemplates with critical nicety the attributes of the thing given. Where, however, we are choosing any orna¬ ment for ourselves, we must have regard to form and colour as well as suitability to the position it is intended to occupy. In affecting old china, we would counsel choice of such as possesses some rare merit of colour, or form, or device, rather than that which depends solely for its marketable value on its scarcity. A few years ago it was almost impossible to find a really good bit of colour amongst modern porce¬ lain. Full primary colours, no doubt there were, though mostly employed in flower or sub¬ ject groups, but any subtlety of colour, or any quaintness or variety of form, was not to be found; so that artists and collectors were forced to hunt up the comparatively few pieces of good ancient pottery to be found in country places, Miscellanea. 109 or in the hands of dealers. Now there are spinging up here and there men of intelligence and spirit, who are stimulating the genius of the country in producing useful and ornamental ware of a very high artistic order, and we re¬ commend those who have neither time nor in¬ clination to study ceramic trade-marks, to confine their purchases to these modern specimens, and thus avoid the risk of being either duped or ruined. Embroidery is another art which might render great service in the finishing of our rooms. As a rule, however, attempts in this direction have been unsatisfactory in the extreme. The me¬ chanical stitch of ordinary Berlin wool-work is dull and uninteresting, and fails to achieve any¬ thing worthy of such self-denying and mono¬ tonous labour. A revolution is on foot in this branch of feminine industry, and we trust a few years will suffice to enforce some useful and long-needed lessons in the application of needlework to domestic decoration. The natural flowers and leaves, awkwardly and unnaturally rendered at best, the over-powerful colours, and their frequent unhappy combina- I IO The Art of Furnishing. tions, are amongst our distressing recollections in this particular department. Young ladies might just as well practise from drawing-slates and call it drawing. It develops no faculty of the artist. The only virtue it tends to promote (if it does not exhaust) is patience. No doubt an acquaintance with the rules of simple ad¬ dition, and a sufficiently good eye to distinguish green from red, are necessary qualifications. Be¬ yond these there is little to be learnt. Yet the number of ugly ill-proportioned chairs, which have been made solely because this or that piece of work took so many months or years to com¬ plete, would form an astounding catalogue. Take a piece of Indian or Japanese embroidery —not the closely covered Indian work—we can¬ not afford to waste so much time-—hut say, a bit of picturesque embroidery on black satin. There is, perhaps, a bird—what kind of bird it may be difficult to tell—but note the firm sweep of the lines in the wings and tail, the wonder¬ fully delicate touches in the feathered plumage, the vivid realism of the eye, the beak, the talons. And then study those marvellous cloud and water lines, indicating, beyond possibility of Miscellanea. 111 mistake, the exact nature of the thing pourtrayed, yet with a single line or two. Reeds, rushes, or gorgeous exotics, are all given with the same fidelity and graphic power, or a flock of double stitches will represent at once a flight of birds. The worker, in fact, has just the same power over the needle and silks or wools as an artist has T>ver his pencil and palette. Now we do not mean, nor do we expect, that every one should possess this instinctive artistic faculty, but where it does in any measure exist, we think we have a right to demand its exercise in something worthier than the old go-cart canvas stitch. Some technical instruction may be needed to enable a young beginner to throw aside the prejudice that may be entertained against novel means of producing good results in embroidery; but once fairly afloat, there will be found infinitely more enjoyment and scope for ability in a form of art-needlework , which presses into its service every means by which a design can be worked out most effectively, or best subordinated to a decorative purpose when it is required to grace, and not disgrace, our rooms. CHAPTER IX. IN CONCLUSION. We are continually told to go to “ nature ” as the infallible guide in all questions pertaining to art, whether pictorial or decorative, and it is not improbable that a great many errors of natural¬ istic design have resulted from an entire miscon¬ ception of the meaning of the advice given. If we content ourselves with blindly copying nature, we shall merely reproduce isolated fragments of nature’s handiwork in the wrong place. We must go to nature, not as mere copyists, but as reasoning intelligent beings, with the endeavour to understand the laws by which she is governed and the principles on which she invariably works. We may not, by looking at a tree, see exactly how to construct a chair; nor, by studying a rose, learn how to design a wall-paper. Yet, by ob- In Conciusion. 113 serving how the main branches of a tree strike out from the parent stem, and how, from these, the more slender offshoots are thrown out in irregular and yet harmonious lines, we may gather some notions of fitness and exquisite adaptability—of a combination of strength and lightness and elasticity—a maximum of force with a minimum of expenditure, every part sup¬ porting or supported by some other part; nothing superfluous, no waste, no reckless prodigality of resource. Here we have the essence of construc¬ tive art — the utmost strength of which the material is capable; the structural formation clearly perceptible without being ugly or obtru¬ sive ; every part having relation to every other part. You perceive the tree hitherto (the trunk and the branches) has merely the beauty of pro¬ portion, of fitness, of vigour, and balance of parts. But as these elements constitute rather a relative beauty, it is necessary, for the ultimate perfection of the tree, that it should assume a positive beauty, hence the blossom, the leaves, and the fruit; outgrowths, mark, of the construction, interwoven, so to speak, in the whole scheme ; no mere adjuncts, but clothing the branches Q 114 7 he Art of Furnishing. with a perfectly natural, seemingly inevitable species of ornament, yet never entirely concealing the anatomy of the tree, only marking still more distinctly its perfect grace and applicability, till, from the fibres which strike into the earth to the trembling leaf that points the slenderest stem, this work of a mightier hand than man’s stands out a miracle of consummate perfection, of work¬ manship past mortal skill, of beauty beyond possibility of human rivalry. The difficulty, of course, is to interpret and codify—if we may so speak—the laws of nature, so as to render them applicable to purposes of construction and decoration. A rose-tree in full bloom is a thing of beauty, but it by no means follows that, repeated at. regular intervals thirty or forty times over a wall it will convey the same sense of beauty. Nature never acts thus; besides, there are conditions of atmosphere and of distance which mitigate out¬ door effects, but which are altogether absent in a room, hence the necessity for getting effects of distance by moderating and toning down the colours on a wall. We have, however, said enough for the present In Conclusion. ii5 on the affinity between nature’s laws and those which should govern industrial and decorative art. One fallacy in relation to art in general we would enter a protest against, namely, the notion that real, abiding, intelligent taste can ever, in its essence, be dissociated from a love of all that is true and noble and sublime. We have heard it said that “ taste ” is the result of feeling —a faculty, that is to say, of the heart rather than the head. We rather think it is a product of both. If, however, the possession of a refined taste is coincident with the higher culture of our intellectual and our emotional nature, and especially of the latter, it should clearly be accompanied by a wide-spread sym¬ pathy and a breadth of charity for all that, in the truest and noblest sense, claims the one or demands the other. That narrowness of spirit and concentration of self-interest which is satis¬ fied with the mere contemplation of forms and emblems in themselves abstractly beautiful, is, we have no hesitation in saying, no mark of taste —certainly not as we understand it, or believe its fullest interpretation to be. Taste, whatever else it may be, is the embodiment of qualities which 116 The Art of Furnishing. the world cannot do without — qualities whose first practical action is rather to cultivate mercy than to foster sentiment; to provide homes for the homeless than to deck the costly mansion, and so down through the cycles of industry. Taste, art, aesthetics—these are the rainbow hues flung off upon life’s checkered skies from influences akin to those of the ever active, ever gracious rain that watereth the earth, and of the sun that blesseth “ the springing ” of herbs and fruits and flowers—ministrants to man of health, of susten¬ ance, and of delight. THE END. 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