..',v'" RESEARCHES IN GREECE AND THE LEVANT. BY THE REV JOHN HARTLEY, M.A MISSIONARY IN THE MEDITERRANEAN, IN CONNECTION WITH THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY. If the Son shall make you free, ye frhall be free indeed."— John viii. 36. SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND REVISED. PUBLISHED BY R. B. SEELEY AND W. BURNSIDE AND SOLD BY L. B. SEELEY AND SONS, FLEET STREET, LONDON. MDCCCXXXIIL SUELEY ANI> SONS, WKSTON GREEV, THAMES DITTON, SURREY. The Journals appended to this Work have previ- ously appeared in the Missionary Register and the Church Missionary Record, with the exception of some few additions and verbal alterations. The acknowledgements of the Author are due to Sir William Gell, for the Map of the Morea, which has been lithographed from his ** Itinerary ; " and to the Rev. J. Arundell, and the Publisher of his Work, for the Map of the Seven Apocalyptic Churches. DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. Map of the Route of the Rev. J. Hartley, on a Visit to the Apocalyptic Churches to face p. 223 Map of the Morea; with Routes of the Rev. J. Hartley p. 305 CONTENTS, 1P\£3£arcf)cs in ©recce an"D tf)e Xeijant. PACK, INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 1 CHAPTER I. CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. Turkey the most unhappy of all countries — Deserted Burial-grounds- Desolations of Ephesus— Laodicea — Sardis — Diminution of popula- tion at Constantinople — Corfu — -^Egina — Colossse — Discovery of Apamea and Sagalassus — Site of Antioch of Pisidia, and other places mentioned in Scripture, not yet discovered — Reflections — Desti'uction of the Janissai'ies— Massacre of Greeks— of tvrenty- seven Samiots at Vourla — Total desolation of Psara — Disappearance of Mahoraedans and their religion from the Morea — Unhappy con- dition of Women in Turkey— Polygamy— Slavery of Greek Females —Scene of distress at Magnesia 7 CHAPTER II. CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. Desolate state of the Morea, illustrated by Scripture — Tripolitza, and the open countTy, after the last incursion of Ibrahim Pasha — Towns demolished — Soil in a state of devastation — Highways abandoned — Khans burnt — Cattle destroyed— Churches in ruins — Olive-trees cut down — The inhabitants taking refuge in caves and mountains^ — Fires in Tuikey — Terrible conflagration at Constantinople in 1826 — Families resident in the tombs of the ancient JSginetans — Reflec- tions on the comparative privileges of our country — Respect paid to Englishmen in Turkey — Execution of Divine menaces against sin, exemplified in the sufl'erings of the Oriental Church, and in the decline of Turkish power 23 A 3 CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. Primitive and Modern Christianity of the East contrasted — Inadequate ■v-iews of human danger — Greek Preachers — Justification — Regenera- tion—Worship of the Virgin — Prayers addressed to her — ^Titles given her — Practical confidence in her assistance evidenced during an action with Pirates — Worship of Saints— St. Spiridion and other Patron Saints of the Ionian Islands — Singular circumstance con- nected with the Worship of the Archangel Michael at Colossae — Facility with which new Saints are worshipped — Two Spezziotes mjirtyred at Scio, and sainted — Modern Greek Martyrdoms 36 CHAPTER IV. RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. Picture-Worship — Description of the Pictures in Churches — Modes of Worshipping them — Pictures in Houses — Emolument and imposition of Painters in the Sale of Pictures, illustrated by an anecdote — Arguments against the Worship of Saints and Pictures from the Septuagint — from Epiphanius — from Chrysostom— Greek ideas of Fasting — Fasts observed by Pirates — The Four Lents — Articles of food prohibited 54 CHAPTER V. RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. The Seven Mysteries or Sacraments— Baptism— Mode of Immersion- Classical names given to children — The Chrism — Transubstantiation recently introduced amongst the Greeks — Mode of celebrating the Lord's Supper — Azymists and Enzyraists — Confession, and absolution — Abuses arising from these doctrines — Anecdote of a Monk who confessed to the author — Excess' of precaution against the marriage of relatives — The Holy OU— Animosities of the Greeks and Latins — Procession of the Holy Ghost— View of Purgatory— Marriage of the Clergy— Monasticism— Concluding remarks 53 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS. Greek Character not inferior to Turkish — Violation of the Third Com- mandment — Anecdote of a Greek Priest, who swore with delight on procuring the New Testament — The Fourth Commandment— The Sixth — Dissensions during the Revolution — Rival Chieftains of the Morea — Vengeance inflicted on Turks — The Turk burnt alive by a Greek Woman — Union of Cruelty and Superstition at Spezzie — In- stance of Generosity to Turkish Prisoners — The Seventh Command- ment — Divorces — Kindness of Brothers to their Sisters — Freedom from Drunkenness — Rapine and Piracy — Greek Klephts— Robbery of an Ecclesiastic of Rank— Murder of a Bishop by the Maniotes — Suppression of Piracy on the arrival of Capo d'Istria 80 CHAPTER VH. MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS. Falsehood of Greeks not superior to Turkish. — Turkish False-witnesses — Conduct of Sir Thomas Maitland to Greek Judges— Illustration erf St Paul's Character of the Cretans — Disadvantages under which the Oriental Clergy have laboured— Excellent Character of two Greek Ecclesiastics, and interesting Adventiire with one of them in the Island of Cefalonia 96 CHAPTER VIII. CEMETERIES, AND RITES OF BURIAL. Turkish, Jevnsh, and Armenian Cemeteries at Smyrna and Constanti- nople — Effect produced by the English Burial- Service in Turkey — Greek Funerals — Illustration of the Miracle at Nain— Persons buried alive — The last embrace of the deceased— Professional Mourners — Inspection of graves at the close of twelve months— Superstitious ideas concerning undecayed corpses 104 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. INTRODUCTION OF THE SCRIPTURES INTO THE ORIENTAL CHURCH. Preliminary Remarks — The Greek Chiirch, for ages, aestitute of the Scriptures in an intelligrible language — Translation into modern Greek procured by Cyril Lucar— His martyrdom — Hilarion's Trans- lation sanctioned by the Hierarchy — Scriptural circulation encou- raged by the Bishop of Talanta, and by the Archbishop of Smyrna — Sale of Scriptures at Smyrna and Constantinople — Scriptures ex- empted from custom-house duty at Syra — Sale in ^gina— Suc- cess of Joannes Lazarides — Introduction of the Sacred Scriptures into the schools — The Scriptures read in several churches in Tino —Church of the Panagia in that island — Greek custom of citing the Scriptures, both in public and private — Compaxison of the Greek and Romish Churches, in regard to the use of the Bible., ill CHAPTER X. CIRCULATION OF TRACTS AND OTHER RELIGIOUS PUBLICATIONS. Character of Greek Religious Treatises — Works of the Fathers, in manuscript, abundant in the Greek Monasteries — Writings of Korai — Interview with him at Paris — Publications of Bambas — Welcome reception given to Tracts 132 CHAPTER XI. EDUCATION, AND SCHOOLS. Melancholy condition of Greek Schools — Absurd mode of instruction by the ancient language — The children bastinadoed, by way of punishment — Thirst for education — Introduction of the system of Mutual Instruction— Dr. Korck's flourisliing School at Syra — Dili- gence and animation of the children— A Building erected for the School, at the expense of the inhabitants — Similar Schools set on foot in other Islands — Testimony to the labours of Dr. Korck, from the Courier de Smyme — Subsequent disappointment 138 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. PUBLIC PREACHING IN GREECE. Sermons in the Church of the Panagia, in ^gina — Attendance of per- sons of distinction — Singular expressions of feeling — Sermon in Hydra — Description of that island— Hospitality and friendship of Greeks — Appearance of the congregation in the " Church of the Monastery" — Feelings of the Author — Subject of the Sermon, de- rived from the passion for liberty — Atrocious character of some of the Hydriotes— Massacre of three hundred Turkish slaves — Sermon in the Church of Megaspelaion, with a description of that Monastery 1 68 CHAPTER XIII. ENLIGHTENED GREEKS. Importance of inquiring for cases of individual conversion — Events in the house of a picture-maker— Conversion of a Greek at Constan- tinople—Conviction of the truth of Christianity, in the case of two Members of the Greek Senate, and of the Prior of a Monastery — Singular expression of a Greek Ecclesiastic— Story of a Native of Zagora — Importance of a conciliatory mode of address — Narrative of a painful disappointment , 168 CHAPTER XIV. JEWS IN TURKEY. Suffering condition of the Jews in Tvirkey — Their ill-treatment by the Turks illustrated — Singular question proposed by a Persian — The Shapgee put to death by the Grand Signor — lU-treatment of the Jews by the Greeks— Pardon asked for the mention of a Jew— Massacre of the Jews at Tripolitza— Jews weary of waiting for the Messiah — Anecdote of a Jew at Salonica— The Gospel at length preached to the Jews of the Levant — Conversion and suf- ferings of three Jews at Constantinople— Means of their conversion — Their concealment — Their apprehension and appearance before Turkish Authorities— Visit paid them by the Author, in the prison of the Porte— Their imprisonment in the Bagnio— Apostacy of one, and constancy of the others — Future prospects 1 82 COxNTENTS, CHAPTER XV. CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS. Scientific Tourists, too often chargeable with folly and cruelty — Duty of Missionary Labour at length recognised — The object of Christian Mis- sions compared with that of Howard — Subject of rejoicing, that the light of Christianity is returning to the region from whence it first emanated 198 Scriptural illustrations. p. 207—219. JOURNALS OF THE REV. JOHN HARTLEY. VISIT TO THE APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES, IN THE YEAR 1S26. Preliminary Remarks 223 Smyrna 226 From Smyrna to Ephesus 228 Ephesus 231 From Ephesus to Laodicea 240 Laodicea 256 From Laodicea to Colossse 26O From Colossae to Apamea and Isbarta 268 From Isbarta to Philadelphia 273 Philadelphia 287 Sardis 293 From Sardis to Thyatira 295 From Thyatira to Smyrna 299 Second Visit to Thyatira 301 CONTENTS. TOUR IN THE MORE A, IN THE YEAR 1828. ^gina 305 Poros 309 Hydra 315 Kastri 3l6 Kranidi 319 Napoli di Romania 322 Argos 326 Tripolitza 328 Mistra 330 Leondari 336 Karidena 338 Demitzani 343 Zatouna 345 Livargi 346 Kalavrita 348 Megaspelaion 349 Phonia 351 Napoli 354 Kiveri 355 Astros 357 Karakovouni 360 Lenidi 36l Astros 363 Argos 364 ^ppentJii (No. I.) JOURNAL OF JOANNES LAZARIDES 372 ^pptntiii (No. II.) LETTER OF PROFESSOR BAMBAS , 382 RESEARCHES IN GREECE AND THE LEVANT. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. The Ottoman Empire has long comprised within its borders the most interesting countries in the world. To some persons, these countries present claims of interest, from the beauties of Nature, and the superiority of climate which they boast. Nor are these pretensions wholly groundless. Who can survey the spacious plains, the magnificent moun- tains, the extensive forests, the multitude of islands washed by the blue and transparent waves, and survey them through a most brilliant atmosphere, without being convinced that he has before him some of the most striking scenes which the human B 2 RESEARCHES IN GREECE eye can behold? " The plains of Asia Minor seem ready to start into fertility with a single touch : but, alas ! that touch is wanting." This was the lan- guage of an English Traveller, in regard to one of these objects ; and an imagination equally vivid would give equal colouring to other Levantine scenes. The Sacred Writings style the most re- markable of these districts, a land flowing with milk and honey — the glory of all lands: and this lan- guage is almost applicable to the entire territory which is now denominated Turkey. To others, these lands are interesting, from the classical recollections which they furnish. " Here," they reflect, ** the light of civilization shone with brightness, whilst the rest of the world was involved in barbarism. Here were born those distinguished individuals who are considered to this hour as having been rarely equalled, and perhaps never surpassed, for efforts of genius, for refinement of arts, and for deeds of heroism." What a perpetual tribute of respect is paid to Ancient Greece, by the study which is given to her language ! The mind of youth is moulded and formed by the models of Greek Literature which are left us ; and, in this manner, the influence of Greece is co-extensive with the magnitude, and will perhaps be perpetual as the duration, of the world. But for Christians, various parts of the Turkish Dominions have a most sacred interest, in the AND THE LEVANT. 3 Scriptural recollections which they furnish. If it be a law of our nature, that localities distinguished by important events invite and rivet our attention, and allure the traveller from the most distant regions, such feelings may be expected to arrive at their utmost pitch of excitement in the contemplation of places where God himself has signally and super- naturally displayed His power. Each spot trodden by an Apostle must be regarded by Christians with some of those feelings of solemn and serious delight, which they cannot describe, and which none but themselves can understand. At the place where a Martyr died, or where his corpse was interred, the most languid believer may be expected to form new resolutions of devotedness to his Divine Master, and consecrate himself to new fidelity in following those who through the faith of suffering and the patience of martyrdom inherited the promises. And cold, indeed, must be the heart of that man, who is capable of the least approximation to insensibility whilst visiting the memorable places where the Saviour of sinners was born or educated ; where He taught, acted, and — above all — suffered. I must own, that whilst I deeply regret the pernicious superstition which has rendered the Tomb of our Lord one of the most melancholy spots on the sur- face of the earth, it has always appeared to me a species of devotion, sometimes allied to that which is spiritual and sincere, and possibly, in some in- B 2 4 RESEARCHES IN GREECE stances, connected with true faith in the Redeemer. Who would willingly possess the eye which refused to weep on Mount Calvary ; or claim the heart which could not glow where our Redeemer ascended from earth to heaven ? My first visit to the city of Corinth awakened feelings within me of very pleasing seriousness. Approaching from the road of Argos, I found the most celebrated classical scenery gradually unfolding itself before me — Parnassus, with its poetic recol- lections, came in view — soon afterwards Helicon appeared — then Cithaeron was visible. But to me, at that moment, this scene presented attractions scarcely susceptible. I was under the influence of superior charms, and felt myself engaged by more elevated recollections. I remembered, that I was now treading on ground which had received the footsteps of the great Apostle of the Gentiles ; that it was here, St. Paul determined to know nothing amongst men save Jesus Christ and him crucified; that at Corinth, by the Divine blessing on his labours, a primitive Church was collected, to which the language was addressed, Ye are washed, ye are sanctified, ye are justified, in the name of the Lord Jesus, and by the Spirit of our God. Under the force of such ideas, I looked with coldness on Parnassus, and with comparative indifference on Helicon and Cithaeron. Parnassus was more in- teresting to me, from the reflection that the eye AND THE LEVANT. 5 of St. Paul had rested on it, than from any other cause: I was delighted, because I could hold a species of distant communion with him, by means of this classical mountain. How unfeigned is the respect which we feel for those whom we believe to be really living to serve God and to make others happy; in whom the devotional and the benevolent feelings have proved superior to those which are earthly and selfish ! Their honours will endure, and increase in splendour, when all the fame which stood only in connexion with Parnassus and Classical Greece will have sunk in eternal oblivion, or be consigned to merited insignificance. Be it ours, then, to set our affections on tilings above, not on things on the earth ! May our ambi- tion rise higher than the highest ambition which is earthly ! May we come decidedly, in faith and spirit, unto Mount Zion, to the city of the living Godf the heavenly Jerusalem! May we yield our- selves devotedly to the service of Christ, as did the Apostles whom we commemorate, till, in the event, we are spectators of nobler scenes, and partake of richer enjoyment, than earthly prospects or recollections can furnish ! B 3 CHAPTER I. CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. Turkey the most unhappy of all countries — Deserted Burial-grounds — Desolations of Ephesus — Laodicea — Sardis — Diminution of population at Constantinople— Corfu — ^gina — Colossse — Discovery of Apamea and Sa- galassus — Site of Antioch of Pisidia, and other places mentioned in Scripture, not yet discovered — Reflections — Destruction of the Janissaries —Massacre of Greeks — of twenty-seven Samiots at Vourla — Total deso- lation of Psara — Disappearance of Mahomedans and their religion from the Morea — Unhappy condition of Women in Turkey — Polygamy — Slavery of Greek Females— Scene of distress at Magnesia. Turkey, whether regarded in a secular or religious point of view, presents a dark and dismal picture. Its history, like the roll of Ezekiel, is written, within and without^ with lamentation, and mourning and ivoe. To the religious state of the empire we shall chiefly direct our attention ; but the calamities not strictly religious, which have befallen these lands, stand in such intimate connexion with religious considerations, and afford room for reflections of so serious a character, that we shall not hesitate to commence with them. Were it requisite to place a motto at the head of this chapter, we should find one highly appropriate in the language of the Prophet : — Destruction upon 8 RESEARCHES IN GREECE destruction is cried; for the whole land is spoiled. Against our entire globe, it is true, divine displea- sure is directed : on every man, as a sinner, divine indignation is ready to be discharged : but if there be any part of our world more exposed than another to the righteous vengeance of God, it is surely the Ottoman Empire. It might seem as if there the thunders of Heaven rolled with more awful rever- beration, and as if there the lightnings of God^s displeasure were doomed to display their most de- structive agency, and to sear, consume, and desolate with unaccustomed effect. These lands, once the most favoured, are now the most chastised of all countries. Few occurrences can evince more clearly a cala- mitous condition of the human race than habitual diminution of population. One of the first and most powerful laws of our nature is, Increase and mul- tiply. When we, therefore, observe an instinct so imperative frustrated, and the most powerful tenden- cies of Nature turned out of their due course, there can be no doubt that some mighty evil is at work. And such is precisely the case in the Turkish Em- pire. In whatever direction the traveller proceeds, he observes cemeteries crowded with the dead : and if he inquire where are their descendants, no answer can be given. Frequently, no town, no village, no cottage on the borders of the deserted burial- ground, can suggest the reply, *' Here are the AND THE LEVANT. 9 children of the deceased." And when the monu- mental epitaph has become illegible, and no more bears its testimony to the name and existence of former generations, still does the close array of dark and mournful cypress-trees present impressive in- formation of the multitudes interred beneath them. That the human race in Turkey really does '* fade away and perish, beneath the eye of the observer," may be further evidenced by the circumstance, that Constantinople is supposed to have diminished its population by 300,000, since the year 1812. But the astonishing loss of population, which those parts of the world have sustained since an- cient times, is still more affecting. I have wandered amidst the ruins of Ephesus ; and 1 had ocular and auricular demonstration, that where once assembled thousands exclaimed. Great is Diana of the Ephe- sians, now the eagle yells, the jackal moans, the echoes of Mount Prion and Mount Coryssus no longer reply to the voice of man. I have stood on the Hill of Laodicea, and I found it without a single resident inhabitant. There was, indeed, an inferiority in its desolations to those of Babylon. Of Babylon it was predicted (Isaiah xiii. 20,) The Arabian shall not pitch tent there. At Laodicea, the Turcoman had pitched his migratory tent in the area of its ancient amphitheatre ; but I saw neither church nor temple, mosque nor minaret, tior a single permanent abode. The capital of the island B 5 10 RESEARCHES IN GREECE of Corfu— -to allude to a place adjacent to Turkey — is reported to have once contained 120,000 in- habitants : now, the entire island only numbers 60,000. Athenaeus assures us, on the authority of Aristotle, that ^gina formerly possessed a slave population of 470,000 : now, the total number of ^ginetans is probably not more than 12,000. I have myself observed the exactitude with which the denunciations of divine anger against the three Churches of Ephesus, Sardis, and Laodicea have been fulfilled. Whilst the other four Churches of Asia, which are in part commended, and in part more mildly menaced, are still populous cities, and contain communities of nominal Christians, of each of these it may now be said, that it is empty, and void, and icaste. And though the Arabian may pitch tent at Laodicea, and the shepherds, as at Ephesus, make their fold there, still have they scarcely been inhabited or dwelt in from generation to generation. Wild beasts of the desert lie there — hyaenas, wolves, and foxes. Their houses ai^e full of doleful creatures : scorpions, enormous cen- tipedes, lizards, and other noxious reptiles, crawl about amidst the scattered ruins ; and serpents hiss and dart along through the rank grass which grows above them. And owls divell there. When I was standing beneath the three stupendous columns of the Temple of Cybele, which are still remaining at Sardis, I looked upward and saw the species of owl AND THE LEVANT. 11 which the Greeks call Cuckuvaia, perched on the summit of one of them. Its name is derived from its note ; and, as it flits around the desolate ruins, emitting" this doleful sound, it might almost seem to have been appointed to chaunt from age to age the dirge of these forsaken cities. And here the distich of Hafiz is most true : The spider has wove his web in the imperial palace ; And the owl hath sung her watch-song on the towers of Afrasiab. I paid a visit to the city of Colossae — if that, indeed, may be called a visit, which left us in some degree of uncertainty whether we had actually dis- covered its remains. Colossse has become doubly desolate : its very ruins are scarcely visible. Many a harvest has been reaped, where Epaphras and Archippus laboured. The vine has long produced its fruits, where the ancient Christians of Colossae lived and died ; and the leaves of the forest have for ages been strewn upon their graves. The Turks, and even the Greeks who reap the harvest and who prune the vine where Colossae once stood, have scarcely an idea that a Christian Church ever existed there, or that so large a population is there reposing in death. How total is the work of demolition and depo- pulation in those regions, is evident from the fact, that the site of many ancient cities is still unknown. It was owing to the exertions of Mr. Arundell, 12 RESEARCHES IN GREECE my fellow-traveller in Asia, that the remains of Apamea and Sagalassus were brought to light : and there are still cities mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles which have eluded research. Where is Antioch of Pisidia ? Where are Lystra and Derbe, cities of Lycaonia ? Where is Perga of Pam- phylia? We sought for Antioch, on our journey through Pisidia ; but its place, as yet, has not been found. Count Alexandre de Laborde, a French gentleman, distinguished for his scientific attain- ments, went in search of Lystra and Derbe. An opinion had obtained ground, that extensive ruins, at a place named, by the Turks, Bin bir kilisi, * The thousand and one churches,' were the remains of one of these cities. But, as I was informed by Count Laborde, it proved, on examination, that the opinion was altogether unfounded. After so many remarks on the desolation of an- cient cities, it would be culpable in a Christian to proceed with his task, without adverting to the very solemn lessons which these scenes are calcu- lated to teach. When I stood amidst these ancient ruins, every pedestal, stone, and fragment appeared to have a voice. A most impressive eloquence addressed me from mouldering columns, falling- temples, ruined theatres,, decayed arches, broken cisterns, and from aqueducts, baths, and sarcophagi, and other nameless masses of ruin. The very si- lence of the spot had language. The wind, as it AND THE LEVANT. 13 sighed through the forsaken habitations, seemed to carry with it the voice of twenty or thirty centuries. I know not if I ever spent a more solemn or more edifying day, than that which was passed amongst the ruins of Ephesus. Here, it was a natural reflection, is grandeur in its grave; power in its sepulchre; beauty consigned to the loathsome worm ; earthly glory in the dust. Here are kings without their honours, without adulation, without crowns — heroes, without their banners, without triumph, without renown. The admirer and the admired are alike forgotten. The despiser and the despised have met with a similar fate. Whole generations have gone down, earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust ! Reflection on scenes so full of solemn interest might be expected to leave no heart unimpressed, no individual unprolited. How ought it to disen- chant us from the fatal fascinations of this delusive world !— how, to break that magic spell which binds us to destructive folly ! — how, to withdraw from earth, and to propel to Heaven ! to speak wisdom to the very ear and heart of folly ; and to startle from their lethargy of death, all mortals, who direct no hopes nor plans beyond the brief span of human life, nor have enjoyments which can survive them, when their bodies sink into the dust ! The Chris- tian, amidst the ruins of Ephesus or Corinth, will repeat, with serious emphasis, the language of 14 RESEARCHES IN GREECE Scripture : Het^e we have no continuing city — We look for a city, ivliich hath foundations, ivhose builder and maker is God. Our citizenship is in heaven ,• from luhence, also, we look for the Saviour, the Lord Jesus Christ. The story of desolation is by no means ended. I have chiefly alluded to ancient destruction; — that of modern times is no less appalling. In every previous age, the evils which stand con nected with anarchy, * insurrection, and warfare, have desolated and depopulated the Turkish empire to a fearful extent. Nor are the times in which we live an exception to the general rule. Of former calamities I have nothing to relate. It is my office to detail some of the horrors, which, in a greater or less degree, have fallen within my own observation. I visited Constantinople, four or five days after the destruction of the Janissaries. On that occa- sion, thousands, as is believed, had fallen in the streets of the capital beneath the sword and the artillery of the grand Signor ; and thousands were banished into distant and hopeless exile. To one living in Constantinople at the time, it was not unusual to behold Mussulman corpses exposed in the streets during the regular period of three days ; and to see dead bodies floating upon the waves of the Bosphorus. To those resident on the shores of the AND THE LEVANT. 15 canal, the disgusting sight was not unfrequent, of a human corpse, borne by the current against their dwelling, and seeming to attempt a landing almost at their door. Proceeding one day from Constantinople to Therapia, a distance of about nine miles, I counted no less than seven such bodies. The large mass of human victims had naturally been conveyed, by the force of the current, into the Mar- mara : and the captains of vessels, coming from the Dardanelles, reported their having fallen in with whole shoals of them ; a circumstance by no means incredible, considering the immense number of per- sons killed and thrown into the sea. But the sword of the Sultan and of his Mussul- man subjects has been turned more awfully against Christians, than against any other class of persons. There was a period, soon after the opening of the Greek revolution, when it was almost certain death for a Greek to make his appearance in the streets of Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places. Not a few of our countrymen have seen Greeks laid dead at their feet by the fire-arms of their Turkish enemies. The Turks went in chase of victims of this description, apparently with as little remorse as the sportsman pursues his game. When I visited Vourla, near the ancient Clazomense, the Greeks conducted me to the charnel-house of their church, and there shewed me the sculls of twenty-seven young Samiots, who had all been sacrificed by the 16 RESEARCHES IN GREECE Turks. This work of butchery had been perpetrated at the same time, and in the same place. The strokes of the yhataghans were still visible. The more public warfare of the Greek revolution has been characterized by two peculiarities, which are scarcely known in the wars of civilized nations. One is, the totality of desolation and destruction, which has fallen upon some places. Prior to the period of which we speak, the island of Psara pos- sessed a population of many thousand inhabitants. The traveller who visited this island, found a large and pleasing town situated upon it. He was de- lighted with the commercial activity and cheerful contentment which it everywhere exhibited. He found the country adorned with gardens, with olive- grounds, and vineyards. Its harbour was visited by vessels of large construction, and manned by seamen of a bold and able character. The bells of the churches were constantly heard, summoning the inhabitants to the solemnities of their religious ser- vice ; and the Ipsariote women were seen moving about in a costume peculiarly pleasing. The wa\"es around the island were ever bearing upon their bosom the Ipsariote ships, extending their canvass to the breeze, and sailing away on some distant enter- prise ; or returning from their voyages with the fruits of their toils and exertions. But now, how changed the scene ! The traveller who should visit Psara, would scarcely recognise the spot. The A>D THE LET ANT. vindictiTe pMBOBS of tke Turk^ oave tlieir fuTj so fataDr vpoa it, t^at it is w!k>11t desolate. Xo ^yie tovm gfitftenig^ visMe. Tig d i MLk - guiii g brfl has heat T e > i !egto aad poUic plaees are deserted bj . . v^taats. Xo ffjtfdi > r : leir course for the with rapidity to ju aa c £sfaaft port. The in nms, and the vhole towm has heem An awful dkmte h» tccfdrd to the L^^ ^i activity of the Ipaariote popaJatw; aaid tk*^ 5-^ gxiil and the ea^le maj uofw daim aadiiiaihi c vrssioB of the CHtire island. Of the Ipsnots theaueKes, savr Ml bj the sword ; a lar^ postioB of the fi Mih poyfarina are in slavery ; aad those who c acapc d hoth these eiib are dispersed thioagh the ialaids of &e The woes which kare be^i ialii ti t\ on Sao other |daces me mot iaferiar to Aose ef Kaon: h«t there is a differeBoe ia tibis resp e c t Iwtatija tiKSH, that there is a prospect of ^radaal recoTcrr m the fomer iastance, while Psaia appta r? to be abas- doned to ir r etriev able dcsolatioa. It is not to the Greeks alone that ^e h^^e :: I:ck for exani^es of this sBiversid extent or min on which we treat. One "jt^^mI ia i lai i say he cited. even in regard to Massdbaaas. Bat receady, a lar^e MibnanrdM popaiatiQn was 18 RESEARCHES IN GREECE out the Morea : they filled its towns and its villages, and were even residing in the open country. Now, the whole of that population has been swept away from the surface of the soil. Many of them have sunk in the dust beneath them. Their blood ferti- lizes the territory, which but lately was marked by their footsteps ; but the major part are exiles. They have been cast upon the shores of Egypt and Asia Minor, and the place which once knew them, knows them now no more. The religion of Mahomet has of course disap- peared with those who professed it. For ages, the cry had resounded, five times each day, from the minarets of the Morea, ** There is no God but God, and Mahomet is the prophet of God." Now that cry is unheard. The very minarets, from which those words were proclaimed are, in great part, laid in the dust ; and the mosques, which formerly were adorned by them, are become Christian churches. I have visited a building in the Morea, which had originally been a Christian church. Subsequently it had long been a Mussulman mosque : it has now again become a Christian temple. The other peculiarity of Turkish warfare is one which assimilates it to the wars of ancient and scrip- tural times. I allude to the revolting custom of carrying into captivity the entire female population. The state of women, generally, in the Turkish em- pire, has been most unhappy. Polygamy, amongst AND THE LEVANT. 19 the Turks, has induced all the evils consequent on that unlawful practice. The mutual jealousies which exist in the Turkish harems, are such as to lead to the most fatal consequences. A very respectable Greek physician of Constantinople mentioned to me a recent instance, which had fallen under his obser- vation, of a Greek captive who was poisoned through the jealousy of a Turkish woman in the harem : and it is far from uncommon for the women to poison each other. Indeed, if the wives of the Patriarch Jacob were unhappy through mutual jealousy, what may be expected of the wives of Mahomedans ? The reports which circulate in Turkey lead to the supposition, that a similar cause, the passionate desire of children, is one of the principal sources of these domestic dissentions. The condition of Greek has been, however, much more distressing than that of Turkish females. The violence to which they were exposed, more espe- cially in the Island of Candia, was one of the prin- cipal causes of the revolution, as the Greeks have often informed me ; and their miseries have reached their greatest height, in the places which fell into the hands of the Turks. Our compassion is often solicited in favour of negro females sold as slaves ; and our feelings revolt at the idea of their being subjected to the whip, and torn from their husbands and parents. But the circumstance of negroes being of a different 20 RESEARCHES IN GREECE complexion, and not having- arrived at that elegance of manners and cultivation of mind, which is the privilege of white persons, appears materially to lessen our sensibilities on the subject. But none of these false principles of mitigation can be called into exercise in regard to the women of Greece. The females of that country have a complexion like our own. They have not indeed, in a large number of instances, received a liberal education, yet are they distinguished by much that is elegant and attractive. This was more especially the case with the females of Scio. How strongly, then, might we suppose the feel- ings of compassion would be excited, at the thought of multitudes of these persons who have been made to experience all the woes of Turkish slavery. They have been torn from their parents, their brothers, and their friends ; and many of those relatives they have seen slain before their eyes. They have been separated for ever from the place of their birth, and sold in the slave-bazaars of Con- stantinople, Smyrna, and many other places. They have been led away to all the different parts of the Turkish Empire, and inclosed in Mussulman harems, in many instances never to emerge ; and not unfre- quently they have been treated with extreme cruelty. Of the sorrows which the Greek captives experience, I was once made deeply sensible in the town of Magnesia. It was in the year 1829, when I hap- AND THE LEVANT. 21 pened to be present at the solemnities of the Greek Easter. According- to custom, they were reading- the Gospel for the day in a variety of languages, and a large concourse of Greeks thronged the church. The Archbishop of Ephesus was also present, and officiating with much pomp ; and the aspect of the church, and of the whole scene, was the most festive imaginable. But at the large door of the building, a scene of a very different character was exhibited. A considerable number of female captives were ranged, and, if I recollect right, in a kneeling pos- ture, along the outside. Their Turkish masters had indulged them so far, as to permit them, on this occasion, to survey the worship of their church and the persons of their countrymen. It was however, to them, a painful instead of a joyful spectacle. Their flowing tears and evident distress very clearly intimated how keenly they felt their separation from their friends and countrymen, and how painful was their whole condition of servitude. The debasement of feeling which their Turkish masters display on this subject, is another evidence how melancholy must be their state. On a journey which I made from Consiantinople to Smyrna, in company of Hadji Mustapha, a native of Tunis, he spoke of the purchase he had lately made of a Sciot captive, with as much composure as an Englishman might speak of the purchase of a horse or a dog. To calamities like these has the daughter of Scio, 22 RESEARCHES IN GREECE. of Psara, of Haivali, of Missolonghi, and of many other places, been subject. The story of the cap- ture of these islands and towns would probably re- semble, in many points, the history of the capture of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar : Our inheritance is turned to strangers, our houses to aliens: — the captive may adopt this language of the Book of Lamentations (ch. v. 2, 3, 5 — 8) : We are orphans and fatherless ; our mothers are as widows. . . . Our necks are under persecution: we labour, and have no rest. We have given the hand to the Egyptians, and to the Assyrians, to he satisfied ivith bread. Our fathers have sinned, and are not ; and we have borne their iniquities. Servants have ruled over us: there is none that doth deliver us out of their hand. CHAPTER II. CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. Desolate state of the Morea, illustrated by Scripture— Tripolitza, and the open country, after the last incursion of Ibrahim Pasha — Towns demo- lished — Soil in a state of devastation — Highways abandoned — Khans burnt — Cattle destroyed — Churches in ruins — Olive-trees cut down— The inhabitants taking refuge in caves and mountains — Fires in Turkey — Terrible conflagration at Constantinople in 1826 — Families resident in the tombs of the ancient ^ginetans — Reflections on the comparative privileges of our country— Respect paid to Englishmen in Turkey — Execution of Divine menaces against sin, exemplified in the sufferings of the Oriental Church, and in the decline of Turkish power. In regard to that territory, which for many years has suffered the horrors of revolution and anarchy, and been the theatre of Turkish warfare, I have often been struck to observe, how very accurately the descriptions of the state of Judea by the ancient Prophets are applicable to it. To the Greeks may be addressed the language : Your country is deso- late ; your cities are burned with fire : your land, strangers devour it in your presence ; and it is deso- late, as overthrown by strangers. I passed through the principal parts of the Morea, soon after the last incursion of the Arab army. In the chief towns. 24 RESEARCHES IN GREECE and in a multitude of the country villages, not a dwelling" remained entire. In Tripolitza, the capi- tal, the work of demolition had been complete. Not only was the green grass growing amidst the ruins of the palace of the Pashas of the Morea, but every mosque, every church, every dwelling, and even every wall, had been thrown down. The de- struction of Tripolitza seemed only second to that of Jerusalem : Not one stone shall he left upon another, ichich shall not be thi^own down. And in what condition may the soil be supposed to have been i In a state literally fulfilling the prophecy of Isaiah concerning Judah (vii. 23) : It shall come to pass, that every place shall he, where there were a thou- sand vines at a thousand silvei^lings, it shall even he for hriers and thorns .... all the land shall hecome hriers and thorns. A description in the book of Judges (ch. v. 6), of the effects of hostile invasion, is a description true in regard to Greece : In the days of Shamgar the son of Anath, the highways were unoccupied, and the travellers walked through hy-ways. Passing from Argos to Tripolitza, and from the latter place to Mistra, two of the principal roads in the Morea, I found this language most correct. It was rare to meet a traveller. I only met one between Tripo- litza and Mistra ; and the roads presented the ap- pearance of having been long disused. I might bring forward facts to prove, that the very language AND THE LEVANT. 25 of Jeremiah (ix. 10) is capable of application : For the mountains will I take up a weeping and ivailingy and for the habitations of the wilderness a lamenta- tion, because they are burned up ... , neither can men hear the voice of the cattle : both the fowl of the heavens and the beast are fled ; they are gone. — The habitations of the wildeimess appear to ex- press those solitary Khans or lodging-places for tra- vellers, which are often at equal distances, in Turkey, between large towns. The Prophet clearly alludes to them in another place : Oh that I had in the wilderness a lodging-place of wayfaring men, that I might leave my people, and go from them I I ob- served that these habitations of the wilderness were uniformly burned up. The cattle had been destroyed to such an extent, that I was not only astonished at the immense quantity of their bones which met my eye, but the Greeks complained that they had not oxen to plough their land : and the destruction of the storks at Argos, mentioned in my Journal, might seem illustrative of the expression. The fowl of the heavens are fled : I do not recollect to have seen a single stork all the time I was in the Morea. Of a multitude of churches, the Greeks may adopt the language (Isaiah Ixiv. 11) : Our holy and our beau- tiful house, where our fathers praised thee, is burned up with fire ; and all our pleasant things are laid 7vaste. One of the most serious losses of Greece has consisted in the wanton destruction of its olive-trees. C 26 RESEARCHES IN GREECE In the district of Corone alone, as Mr. King informs us, no less than 290,000 trees have been cut down by the Arabs. Under such circumstances, the con- dition of Greece had almost become what was re- garded by the Prophet as the consummation of mis- fortunes : AWiougli the Jig-tree shall not blossom, neither shall fruit he in the vines: the labour of the olive shall fail, (ind the fields shall yield no meat; the flock shall be cut off from the fold , and there shall be no herd in the stalls ; yet ivill I rejoice in the Lord ; I will joy in the God of my salvation. Not to pass unnoticed the condition of the inha- bitants of the Morea, amidst this complication of distresses, we may observe, that in regard to them the prophecies have been fulfilled (Isaiah ii. 19, 21): They shall go into the holes of the rocks, and into the caves of the earth . . . into the clefts of the rocks, and into the tops of the ragged rocks. Others ^eJ, as a bird, to their mountains ; but, in most cases, in vain teas salvation hoped from the hills and from the multitude of mountains : their pursuers were more active and merciless than tigers ; and many found their death on those very mountains in which they hoped for safety, and were hurled down from the summits of those rocks which they had expected to find their house of defence and their castle. 1 found the remark universal in the Morea, that, whilst men who had concealed themselves in caverns. AND THE LEVANT. 27 escaped to a very considerable extent, such persons as had confided in the height or inaccessible nature of mountains had met with destruction. The subject of destruction and spoliation is so copious, that it might be enlarged on, to an unli- mited extent : but I shall only touch on a few other examples. Accidental fires have ever been common in Turkish towns. Very frequently the cry ** Yan- gueen var (Fire)" startles the sleeping population from their slumbers ; and gives a practical illustra- tion to the Scriptural language : Why art tJiou ivholly gone up to the house-tops? It is customary in Turkey, on every alarm of fire, for all persons instantly to resort to the top of the house, in order, from that elevation, to discover the quarter in which the fire has made its appearance. And should it be found that it is in the direction from whence the wind proceeds, serious apprehensions are enter- tained ; for it often happens that conflagrations travel to a very considerable distance. In the year 1826, the most destructive fire oc- curred at Constantinople which had been known for fifty years. With what fatal violence a con- flagration would spread at such a moment may be judged of by the facts, that little or no rain had fallen for a considerable space of time ; that the city of Constantinople is composed almost wholly of wooden buildings ; and that, during summer, the fine Etesian wind, which blows from the Black C 2 28 RESEARCHES IN GREECE Sea, scarcely ever fails to spring- up in the morning, and often freshens to a powerful breeze. Here, indeed, was a mass of combustible materials, not only ready to be ignited, but to communicate the flames to an unknown extent. Precisely under these circumstances, a spark, from some undisco- vered cause, communicated itself to one of the houses on the shore of the Golden Horn, not far from the wall of the Seraglio. In a moment, that spark became a flame. The flames soon laid hold of the adjoining dwellings, and, with astonish- ing rapidity, poured like a fiery inundation upon the principal part of the city. The torrents of fire took their course in the direction of Santa Sophia ; and that venerable pile, around which such awful scenes of carnage and ruin in successive ages have been exhibited, was enveloped in smoke, and its dome menaced. The flames continued to rage for more than twenty-four hours, and only terminated their progress at the waves of the sea of Marmara. Thus did the conflagration pass from sea to sea, across the peninsula on which the city is built, and actually present the appearance of waves of flame between two oceans of water. At Therapia, ten miles up the Bosphorus, we were soon made sensible of the terrific catastrophe which was in progress, by volumes of smoke rising from the burning city. Even this spectacle reminded me of the description which is given us in the AND THE LEVANT. 29 scriptures of the destruction of Sodom and Go- morrah : The smoke of the city went up as the smoke of a furnace : but at night the spectacle was more awfully grand : spires of flame, darting forth from the burning houses, were most distinctly vi- sible ; and the light which was spread through the sky seemed to insult the stars. The effect of this tremendous scene on the inhabitants of Constan- tinople and its neighbourhood were what might be expected. Hundreds of thousands were looking on, aghast with dismay and astonishment. It was reported, that the Grand Signor himself hurried to the battlements of his Seraglio, and, gazing upon his capital in flames, fainted with terror and vexa- tion. The alarm of the moment was indeed ex- treme. The idea was general, that the calamity was owing to a new revolution of the Janissaries, and that it was in this manner they had commenced their insurrection. Thus did tnens hearts fail them forfoar, and for looking after those things which seemed to be coming on the earth. The consterna- tion occasioned by the calamity was so great, that it led to most exaggerated statements. It was even asserted that two thirds of the city had been laid in ashes. An eighth of Constantinople, I was cre- dibly informed, had actually been consumed. On walking over the ruins, the day after the event, I found it impossible to trace, from any point which I visited, the extent of the catastrophe. A 30 RESEARCHES IN GREECE fearful chasm had been opened from one sea to the other, and thousands were left destitute of home and habitation. To give a proper idea of the calamities to which Turkey is exposed, it would be necessary to pre- sent a detailed account of the ravages of the plague. This awful visitation is ever prevailing, to a greater or less degree, in the different provinces of Turkey ; and this, perhaps, is a principal cause of the de- population of the empire. But neither on this subject can we dwell, nor on the misery connected with poverty, which of late years has been great. The excessive distress of this kind, which befel the theatre of war during the Greek Revolution, may be in part conceived by the fact, to which 1 can myself bear witness, that during the winter of 1827 — 28 there were families in ^gina actually residing in the tombs of the ancient ^ginetans. I also heard of persons who were found dead of starvation in these re- ceptacles of misery. The recital before us instructs us in the disastrous effects of misrule, and in the high value by which our own political privileges ought to be estimated. We often descant, in this country, on that excellent constitution which secures so amply the rights and property of Englishmen. But much as we may say, and much as we may feel, on this subject, I am fully persuaded that neither our expressions AND THE LEVANT. 31 nor feelings are adequate to the magnitude of the blessing. To form a more correct idea of our na- tional advantages, we ought to be subjects of the Ottoman empire for some portion of our existence : we ought to have our full share of exposure to those general evils which have in part been de- scribed ; and we ought to have some of those sensations, which distress the hearts of men, whose property, at any uncertain moment, may be torn from them ; whose virtue, piety, and religion only render them more effectually and speedily the spoil of the oppressor; who may see their most endeared objects of conjugal affection and parental tender- ness separated from them by the hand of brutal violence ; who may become the inmates of a prison, the subject of the lacerating bastinado, and the very spoil of death — and why? simply, because Injustice has so decreed it. Nor is the favour of God to England confined within the shores of our island, or limited to the shadow of our national flag. Even on Turkish ground, the expression, *' I am an Englishman," is certain to ensure respect. I have often been reminded of the privileges possessed by Roman citizens on this identical soil, by the immunities conferred on Englishmen. Then they feared, when they knew he tvas a Roman. This was the expe- rience of antiquity. Now they fear when they know we are Englishmen. I mean not to intimate, that 32 RESEARCHES IN GREECE Englishmen enjoy these privileges exclusively of the subjects of other Christian States ; but certain I am, that no man is more respected than an Englishman, either by Turks or Greeks. A view of the calamities of Turkey instructs us, also, in the certain execution of Divine menaces. The Greek Church has participated in that avrful apostacy from true religion, which was so clearly foretold by the apostles. In the progress of this work, we shall have too much occasion to delineate some of the features of this apostacy. And what has been the consequence ? Hosts of furious in- vaders have poured in upon the lands once wholly possessed by Christians ; they have inflicted the most serious chastisements which can befal guilty nations ; and up to this hour the visitation is ex- perienced. The land was as the garden of Eden before them ; and behind them a desolate wilder- ness: (Joel ii. 3.) Recent events might also inti- mate, that the language also is applicable : For all this my anger is not turned away, hut my hand is stretched out still. In addition to all the calamities in which the Greeks have been recently involved, and to some of which allusion has been made, it is striking to contemplate the severity with which the blow has fallen upon the clergy. The highest dignitary of the Orient has been hanged at the door of his own church ; and his body has been dragged con- AND THE LEVANT. 33 temptuously through the streets of Constantinople, by the Jews, mortal foes of every form of Chris- tianity. A corresponding punishment has been in- flicted on a vast multitude of inferior prelates and priests. The number who have been executed is immense. I regret exceedingly that I did not draw up a catalogue of the massacred prelates, which I could have formed from oral testimony. Recollec- tion of repeated narratives of the kind convinces ftie it would have been awfully extensive. Add to these woes, the utter ruin inflicted on the ancient and numerous monasteries of Mount Athos, the Holy Mountain of the Greeks ; the countless num- ber of ecclesiastics of all ranks, who have been com- peled to flee to other lands for refuge, and to depend on charity for support ; and these facts, coinciding with the experience of the world at large and with the declarations of Scripture, teach us, forcibly, that sin will not go unpunished. We cannot avoid noticing the condition of the Turks, in the same view of the subject. They may perhaps be compared to the Assyrians, once com- missioned to execute similar purposes : Isaiah x, %> — 7. O Assyrian, the rod of mine anger, and the ^taff in their hand is mine indignation, I will send. him against an hypocritical nation Howheit he meaneth not so^ neither doth his heart think so ,• but it is in his heart to destroy and cut off nations not a few. 24, 25. Therefore thus saith the Lord C 5 34 RESEARCHES IN GREECE God of Hosts, O my people that dwellest in Zion, be not afraid of the Assyrians .... For yet a very little ivhile, and the indignation shall cease, and mine anger in their destruction. What a remarkable difference between the Turks of the days of Muhammed II. or Suleyman the Mag-nificent, and of the present reign of Mahmoud! Once, they were the very terror of Europe : they laid siege to the capital of Germany : they caused the most distant Christian monarchs to tremble in their capitals. But, now, how hath the oppressor ceased! .... He who smote the people in ivrath luith a con- tinual stroke, he that ruled the nations in anger, is persecuted, and none hindereth. . . . How art thou fallen from heaven, O Lucifer, son of the morning I . . , . Is this the man that made the earth to tremble, that did shake kingdoms ; that made the world as a wilderness, and destroyed the cities thereof? It has been truly remarked, that Constantinople, now, is almost vv^hat Constantinople was formerly, under the declining fortunes of the Greek Em- perors. As those obscure shades of Roman power and grandeur were quivering with constant appre- hension, from the overwhelming fury of the Turkish assailants, who were perpetually advancing upon them ; so now the faded representatives of the Mu- hammeds and Bajazets stand aghast at the colossal power of the Russian Empire, which ever threatens to crush them. AND THE LEVANT. 35 Their very internal revolutions are a striking example of retributive justice accomplishing its object. The reiterated ruin inflicted by Pashas and other Governors, contending among themselves and with their Sovereign ; a large portion of their terri- tory now wrested from their hands, and its popu- lation either exiled or destroyed ; the Janissaries, who had been chiefly instrumental in the massacre of so many Christians, now receiving the sword of vengeance in their own breasts — these and innu- merable other facts, add their testimony to the truth of the declaration, The kingdom which will not serve me shall perish. Nor is it the capricious energies of the present Sultan which will save from total eclipse the waning crescent. It is nothing but the convulsive struggle of death, which has given being to late effbrts. A nation so intimately and fully pervaded by barbarism can never arise to that strength of civilization which Christianity alone imparts. CHAPTER III, RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. Primitive and Modern Christianity of the East contrasted — Inadequate views of hiiman danger — Greek Preachers — Justification — Regeneration — Worship of the Virgin — Prayers addressed to her — Titles given her — Practical confidence ki h€r assistance, evidenced during an action with Pirates — Worship of Saints— St. Spiridion and other Patron Saints of the Ionian Islands — Singular circumstance connected with the Worship of the Archangel Michael at Colossse — Facility with which new Saints are worshipped — Two Spezziotes martyred at Scio, and sainted — Modens Greek Martyrdoms. The religious condition of Turkey presents a view of distress which, to a Christian mind, will be more painfully affecting- than the very calamities which have just been described. The Christians of these lands were once orthodox, without any question of the propriety of that term ; their churches were formed by the Apostles themselves ; and their doc- trine and discipline emanated from Divine inspira- tion. They were addressed in terms of this import: Ye are a chosen generation ^ a royal priesthood, a holy nation, a peculiar people, that ye should shew forth the praises of Him y who hath called you out of dark- ness, into His marvellous light. Amidst revolting RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 37 scenes of idol- worship and unrestrained licentious- ness, they constituted, to use the simile of Scripture, a spiritual temple, formed of living" stones, conse* crated to the service of the True God : Ye are built upon the foundation of the Apostles and Prophets^ Jesus Christ Himself being the chief corner-stone* With what sacred awe, with what feelings of so- lemn reverence, do we contemplate the spectacle of whole communities described by the Inspired Historian in such language as this : And the mul' titude of them that believed ivere of one heart and one souU^and, Then had the Churches rest through^ out all Judea and Galilee and Samaria, and were edified ; and walking in the fear of the Lord, and in the comfort of the Holy Ghost, were multiplied, (Acts iv. 32, and ix. 31.) But for age after age Christianity has worn a very different aspect. Doctrine has become cor* rupt, discipline has disappeared ; morality is no more. Apostacy is stamped upon the Christian Churches. Where idol-temples once fell, and where they still attest, by their ruins, the resistless force of primitive Christianity, the visible temple of God has fallen ; and great has been the fall of it ! So total has been the demolition, that the very language of Our Saviour, descriptive of the ruin of another Temple, has become too applicable to this edifice ; — not one stone left upon another, that is not thrown down. 38 RESEARCHES IN GREECE It is my intention to give a brief sketch of the doctrinal opinions which are prevalent amongst the Greeks : and, in doing so, it is by no means my plan to enter into deep research, or to cite numerous authorities. I shall principally confine myself to what I have personally observed, and to the results of my intercourse with individuals. Inadequate views of human danger. — The Sacred Writings represent the condition of man, as one not merely exposed to the clanger of ruin, but as actually undone. They inform us, not that man will perish unless he do, or abstain from doing, certain supposed actions, but that his eternal ruin is certain, unless he experience a deliverance from the condition in which his nature has placed him. I never recollect to have met with a Greek who appeared to have a correct view of this subject. The ideas which prevail are a counterpart to what is common among the more thoughtless of our own countrymen. Man, they imagine, is a sinner. As a sinner, he is certainly exposed to a considerable degree of danger. But if his life be, on the whole, free from vicious actions, and if he practise moral virtues — if he believe in the doctrines of his church, and observe the ordinances of his religion — he has good reason to expect salvation. Such are the indefinite views of religion which, in too many Protestant, as well as Greek and Roman- Catholic AND THE LEVANT. 39 countries, seem to take possession of human minds, rather than to be the acquisition gained by the mind after previous and careful examination. The con- sequence is such as might be expected. The immortal spirit resigns itself to a fatal and awful security. The inquiry is not heard, What must I do to he saved ? Danger is not apprehended ; and salvation is not sought. That individuals in the Greek church have been deeply solicitous for eternal safety, is undoubted ; but that they have been truly enlightened to right views of the actual ruin to which the fall of Adam has reduced our nature, may be questioned. The Greek preachers can dwell with great force and pathos on the awful considerations connected with an eternal existence. They summon their hearers to the bar of Final Judgment. They array the Last Day with solemnities and terrors, sufficient, we might suppose, to produce the most indelible impressions. The shortness of human life, the utter insignificance of all terrestrial objects — on all these themes they dilate and express themselves with much feeling. Vanity of vanities ! all is vanity ! is an expression universally known among them. But no where have I heard either ministers or laity bringing forward evidence to shew distinctly that, unless at some period of human life, an escape be effected, pardon be imparted, and salvation acquired, there is no hope of heaven. 40 RESEARCHES IN GREECE Incorrect ideas of justification. — Justi- fication is represented, in the Sacred Writings, as that state of perfect reconciliation with God, which secures us pardon of sin, and the enjoyment of Heaven ; and it is referred to the merits of Christ, as the cause which procures it ; whilst faith is the medium by which it is communicated. I never found a single Greek who appeared to have a cor- rect view of this article of a standing or FALLING CHURCH, as Luther designates it. The idea which seems prevalent, is this^that faith and works conjointly obtain justification. The merits of Christ are not denied ; professedly, much regard is paid to them ; but, as far as I can judge, men found their hopes of Heaven on the circumstance of their having faith and works, to recommend them to divine favour. The great doctrine of primitive times was Christ crucified; and amongst all enlightened Christians this is a subject contemplated with peculiar atten- tion, and guarded with vigilant jealousy. A Chris- tian, formed upon the instructions of the Sacred Scriptures, cannot bear the thought of any approxi- mation to merit on the part of man ; nor can he endure expressions which appear to take from Christ any part of the glory or agency of human salvation. Speak of the Cross of Christ to many of the Greeks, and it is not improbable they will understand an allusion to the supposed wood of the AND THE LEVANT. 4J true cross ; — and they may inform you of some portion of it in their own possession. I remember hearing a priest of Ithaca strongly maintaining that, in the expression, God forbid that I should glory , save in the Cross of our Lord Jesus Christ, the Apostle only referred to the wood of the cross. Or, in discoursing on this subject, the Greek might expatiate on the importance attached to the sign of the cross ; and might enter into argument to prove that the Orientals alone knew how to form that sign, whilst the Roman Catholics were in error on this point. A pilgrimage to Jerusalem, to light a taper at the holy fire supposed to descend from Heaven on the tomb of our Saviour upon Easter- day would, in the estimation of many, be glorying in the Cross of Christ. Amidst such darkness, it will not appear sur- prising, when I assert, that I never met with a Christian in the East who appeared experimentally to understand the Apostle's language — Being justi- fied hy faith, we have peace ivith God, through our Lord Jesus Christ. We observe it habitually in our own country, that when men have indistinct views of the merits of our Redeemer, they deem it presumption to express a confidence like that of primitive times : We know, that if our earthly house of this tabernacle were dissolved, we have a building of God, an house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens: (2 Cor. v. 1.) That 42 RESEARCHES IN GREECE unspeakable peace, connected with a sure and cer- tain hope of eternal bliss, which is enjoyed most happily by so many in our own land, is, I fear, and has been for ages, wholly inexperienced in Turkey ; even though, there, superior earthly distresses might seem to demand superior consolations. Ignorance of the nature of regenera- tion. — One of the most important and practical doctrines of Christianity is that which is usually designated, Regeneration, or the New Birth. On this subject I have not failed to speak continually with the Eastern Christians. I have endeavoured to explain it fully to their understandings, and to impress it upon their hearts, that without a second birth they cannot obtain a second life ; that without a change of disposition and character, so total as to warrant the scriptural term of a new creation, their faith is not attended by its essential effects. In connexion with this subject, I naturally shewed them, that a Christian is one who makes the acqui- sition of eternal happiness his primary object in life ; and who has obtained tastes and enjoyments so new, in comparison of those which he once possessed, that his religion has become the very charm of his existence, and the subject which is blended with all its pursuits and avocations ; that in a true follower of Christ, sin is not avoided, and holiness pursued, as a matter of unpleasant necessity, but, (though AND THE LEVANT. 43 sin will still tempt and harass,) with that ardent alacrity and pleasure which distinguish a fixed habit. These representations I found wholly new to my hearers. The word Regeneration, when first men- tioned, excited in their minds the thought of Bap- tism ; and, as has been too often the case, in the sign they lost sight of the thing signified. Where the effect of the Holy Spirit's operation is unknown, it is natural that no idea should exist of the need of that important gift. The Greeks are indeed most tenacious of the peculiar doctrine of their church, in regard to the Procession of the Holy Ghost ; but I have found none amongst them looking earnestly to God for the aid of His Spirit. Having given this slight sketch of the melan- choly absence of right views in the Levant, on the more essential doctrines of religion, I propose to review briefly some of the errors, which are most prevalent ; — many in common with the Church of Rome : and on these let us first ofl.o^) AND THE LEVANT. 163 will preach at such a time." To these directions they never failed to return a most respectful an- swer — 'Opia-iAoqa-aq, " Your pleasure." It might na- turally be questioned, whether the priests were as friendly, under these circumstances, as appearances represented them; and whether, if left entirely to themselves, they would have permitted me to preach. As a proof, however, that the very clergy were in a considerable degree free from the influence of pre- judice, I shall mention another opportunity of pub- lic preaching which was afforded me, in which I was indebted for that instance of liberality exclusively to priests and monks. During my tour in the Mo- rea, in the spring of 1828, I visited the Monastery of Megaspelaion. No monastery in the Morea is so large, or so celebrated. Much of the veneration which is paid it, arises from its possession of a pic- ture of the Virgin Mary, which is believed to have been the work of the Evangelist Luke. The Greeks as well as the Latins, have adopted the idea, that Luke was an artist ; and they imagine that he left three pictures of the Holy Virgin. One of these, they assert, is the picture at Megaspelaion. Another is to be met with in Candia. The third exists in some part of Asia Minor. This idea is so universal amongst the Greeks, that, long before I visited Megaspelaion, I often found a very common argument in favour of picture- worship derived from this circumstance. '' How f 164 RESEARCHES IN GREECE can you question the propriety of this practice ? " was their language. ** Go to Megaspelaion ; and you will there see the very picture of the Panagia, which St. Luke has left us." Such a notion naturally allures a very large number of visitants to the monastery. They resort thither expressly to worship the picture. During the Revolutionary war, the strength of the situation had also attracted a large number of refugees. It was an impregnable fortress, which defied Ibrahim Pasha's efforts, though he twice made attempts upon it. The approach to Megaspelaion, from Kalavrita, is along a deep defile, with a river flowing through it. On both sides, the banks rise precipitously : they are covered with fine forest scenery, and are of mountainous elevation. After travelling up the ravine for about an hour, the monastery presents itself to view, at a considerable elevation on the right hand. It is, as the name imports, in reality, a large cavern ; but buildings of some size have been erected in front, in order to render the resi- dence more commodious and extensive. A stupen- dous precipice, four or five hundred feet in height, impends far over the monastery : and when I was there, two towers were situated on the crest of this rock, in order to complete the defence of the posi- tion. A solitary piece of timber, which was all that remained of a bridge, enabled us to pass over, not without danger, to that side of the roaring AND THE LEVANT. 165 stream on which the monastery was built. Our horses had to proceed to a considerable distance, to reach a bridge on which they could cross with safety. The ascent from the river is an extremely steep acclivity, and not a little fatiguing. On gaining the monastery, we found several of the clerical monks {UpofAovaxoi) seated at the door, and appearing to exercise a duty like that of sentinels. They received me with great kindness and hospitality, conducted me around every thing which was deemed curious and interesting, and welcomed me to the best cheer their monastery afforded. But what excited my greatest interest in this remarkable place, and the reason why I give this lengthened detail, to my great surprise and delight, the very monks of Megaspelaion invited me to preach in their church on the ensuing morning. The proposal was, of course, readily embraced : and accordingly, the next morning, I found myself in the pulpit of the Church of Megaspelaion, with about a hundred monks before me, and a large number of laymen ; and in the very place where is depo- sited the picture which is regarded with so much reverence. It was on the Sunday after Easter that I preached in this church ; and I found it suitable to address my audience on a subject connected with the re- collections of the season. Easter, amongst the Greeks, is by far the most joyful festival in the 166 RESEARCHES IN GREECE year. After the abstinence and rigours of a fifty- day's fast, every thing assumes an air of gaiety. All persons meeting each other, even in the pub- lic streets, kiss one another. The more common modes of salutation are partially suspended : and the universal salutation is this, XpivoiKaxyiop)' Any person may see this ancient custom exempli- fied to this day at the gate of Smyrna. The mirigee, or collector of customs, sits there, in the house SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 217 allotted him ; and receives the money which is due from various persons and commodities, entering into the city. The exactions and rude behaviour of these men are just in character with the conduct of the Publicans mentioned in the New Testament. I was myself, the very day before I left Turkey, grossly insulted by a man of this class, because he chose to suppose that the mule on which I was riding was liable to pay duty. A terrible fracas took place : in which some Franks, who came to my assistance tore the animal away from him by main force. Had I not been sailing from Smyrna the next morning, I might have felt it my duty to sum- mon the man before the Pasha, who would have bastinadoed him sufficiently. When men are guilty of such conduct as this, no wonder that they were detested in ancient times, as were the Publicans ; and in modern times, as are the Mirigees. MARK, II. 4. And when they could not come nigh unto him for the pi'ess, they uncovered the roof where he was : and when they had broken it up, they let down the bed wherein the sick of the palsy lay. Dr. Shaw has supposed that there was a difficulty in understanding this passage, and the correspond- ing one (Luke v. 19), in a literal manner ; and has therefore suggested an interpretation which appears L 218 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. to me wholly inadmissible. When I lived in jEgina, I used to look up, not unfrequently, at the roof above my head, and contemplate the facility with which the whole transaction might take place. The roof was constructed in this manner : — A. layer of reeds, of a large species, was placed upon the rafters. On these a quantity of heather was strewed. Upon the heather, earth was deposited, and beat down into a compact mass. Now, what difficulty would there be, in removing, first the earth, then the heather, next the reeds ? Nor would the difficulty be increased, if the earth had a pavement of tiling {KepoifAuv) laid upon it. No inconvenience could result to the persons in the house, from the removal of the tiles and earth, for the heather and reeds would intercept any thing which might otherwise fall down, and would be removed last of all. LUKE, XV. 16. He would fain have filled his belli/ with the hnsks that the swine did eat. It has been remarked bv Commentators, that the husks {Kepdria) here mentioned are the fruit of the CeratoniUf or Carob-tree. The Modern Greeks still call this fruit by the same name, KepuTia, and sell them in the markets. They are given to swine, but not rejected as food even by men. SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 219 LUKE, XVII. 2. It were better for him that a Tnillstone were hanged about his necky and he cast into the sea. To one who connects this passage with the idea of the large millstones employed in our country, there must appear something unnatural in the allu- sion. To attach such a millstone to the neck, would be to terminate life by another mode of death than by casting into the sea. There is here an evident reference to the millstones employed in the East, which are called hand-mills (%€tpo/AuXot). These con- sist of an upper and nether millstone, playing into each other, and not more than a foot in diameter. They are turned round by two persons ; one sitting on one side, the other on the other — two women grinding at the mill. The corn, being thus ground between the stones, escapes, in the form of flour, through a hole in the lower millstone. In order to sink a person into the sea, nothing could be more suitable than to attach a millstone of this kind to his neck. The Greeks who were besieged in Athens had provided several hundred of these hand-mills. L 2 w Sournafe OF THE REV. JOHN HARTLEY. o r„>,i,l„,i.r„l,Mi^,l /.,Jf./l.jW/,-yi- n:iS,mm,/^. ir:.',J-Veet Stn,t, J,wc ]fl«'/SX'. Pai6uv irereyjvuv e^vea TroXXa, 'Aff/fiij XeifAoSi/iy iLavcrrpiov afx(p) 'peeGpa, Iliad. B. 459. 232 VISIT TO THE distant. At this place we see chiefly the ruins of the Mahomedan Town, which flourished for a time, after the destruction of the other ; and had been erected, in a great measure, by the spoils which it furnished* Innumerable are the Inscriptions which are lying" about, in disorder or neglect : or which are built into the Aqueduct and the Turkish structures. No ruin here struck me so much as the large Mosque, which some Travellers have ventured to suppose the Church of St. John. The front of the building is reckoned one of the finest specimens of Saracenic architecture ; and in the interior are some stupendous columns, which, there is no reason to doubt, once graced the celebrated Temple of Diana. I cannot describe the feelings which came over my mind, on viewing the Mosque, the Castle, and the multitude of ruins which are strewed on every side. What a scene of desolation ! With the utmost truth and feeling has it been observed, by a celebrated traveller — *' It is a solemn and most forlorn spot ! And, at night, when the mournful cry of the jackal is heard on the mountain, and the night-hawk and the shrill owl (named, from its note, * Cucuvaia') are flitting around the ruins, the scene awakens the deepest sensations of melan- choly." I was also much struck to observe, how the stork appears, at present, to claim possession of these ancient edifices. You see this bird perch- APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 233 ing, in all directions, upon the summits of the buildings, or hovering round them in the air, or fixing its immense nest, like the capital of a co- lumn, on the large masses of ruins. As for the stork, the ruins of Ephesus are her house. There is a great peculiarity in the note of this bird : it reminds the hearer of the sound of a watchman's rattle. A large archway leading to the castle is generally called the Gate of Persecution ; from the supposi- tion that the sculpture attached to it represents the sufferings of the Primitive Christians. It is how- ever believed, with more reason, that nothing else is signified than Achilles dragging the dead body of Hector behind his chariot. The chief part of these figures was removed some time ago, and is said to have been sold for an immense price. We spent the night in one of the miserable cot- tages which are scattered amidst the ruins. These are all tenanted by Turks. We found only a single Greek inhabiting the Village of Aiasaluck. In a Missionary point of view, Ephesus offers now no attractions : her ancient Church has vanished — the candlestick has been removed — and even the Turks who dwell at hand are few in number. We heard of a Greek village at no great distance, containing 400 houses : but there is reason to believe that the number is overstated. Before retiring to rest, Mr. Arundell and myself, 234 VISIT TO THE with Nicolas, united in prayer, in Romaic, in pre- sence of the Turks. We adopted this resolution, not without reflection. Few Christians, perhaps, have made a journey without experiencing the ob- stacles to prayer, which arise from want of retire- ment. These difficulties are, of course, multiplied in a country like Asia Minor, where we are almost constantly surrounded by strangers. While, then, every Christian would gladly yield a literal obe- dience, whenever it is practicable, to the precept of our Lord — Thou, when thou pray est, enter into thy closet, and, when thou hast shut thy door, pray to thy Father, which is in secret — we found it most proper, whenever this duty was impossible, to imi- tate the Turks themselves. Mahomedans are not ashamed to pray publicly — in the open fields, on the high road, and by the banks of rivers : and T have heard of an instance in which they came to the conclusion, "The English have no prayer;" be- cause they never witnessed, on a journey, the out- ward posture of supplication. Our practice, there- fore, we hope, had two good effects. It was placing an obstacle to the neglect of devotion ; and it was a silent lesson to the Turks, that the English are not without prayer, and that they pray, like them- selves, without the use of pictures or crucifixes. March 31, 1826. — This morning we crossed the plain, to the Ruins of Ephesus. One of the first objects which attract notice, are the numerous places APOCALYPTIC CHTECHES. 3K of burial whick are chaerred on dK declirity o€ Monnt Prion, fhej consist of excavalioaB in the ade of the hill, arched with staoiewark. It is heie that, tradition informs ns. Timodnr W9£ buiitii ; smI it is to tids place diat snperstidon awigm tiie Mtfty of the Seven Sleepers. We surrejeil iridi plean sore the Stadium : but Botidng at ^Efibetm was S0 interesting as the remains of tlie tkeatre. It was here, that the mal tirade collected by Deiaetnas and his craAoMn excited the wffroar wfaicli tiirew the whole city into confusion : and the sitsatioa of the baildiag' affords illnstratioD of tint remark- able occurreDce. The Theatre, tike other ancient structnies of "tbt same Dame, is seated on a steep dectivity : tlie seatt havin? been formed, in suc^esmwe bexSy on tke slope of a lofty hill, and the whole bnildinz beag^ opea to the sky. I have no doubt that upwards of Airty thousand ptersoos could have eaaweaaeoAy sealed themselves in the Theatre of Ep hfesu s. Before them, they had a view of the most striking descrip- tion. Across the Market-place, aad at bo great distance, they bebeld that splendid Tonple, whick was one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and which was dedicated to the preat goddess Dicauiy whom all Asia and tie trorld rorskipped. Tbere can be little doubt that Demetrius would avail himself of the si^ht of this splendid object, to in- iame to the highest pitch the p****"^*' oi the eiu1> 235 VISIT TO THE titude. We may imagine their eyes fixed on this famous Temple, and their hands directed towards it, while they all, with one voice, about the space of two hours, cried out. Great is Diana of the Ephe- sians ! The very situation of the Theatre would add to the tumult. On the left-hand, and at no great distance, are the steep and rocky sides of Mount Corissus ; forming a natural and lofty ram- part, which completely shuts out all prospect in that quarter. The shouts of 20,000 persons, striking against this mountain, would be re-echoed with loud reverberations, and not a little augment the uproar. The high situation of the Theatre on Mount Prion, accounts also for the ease with which such an immense multitude was assembled. From every part of Ephesus, on that side, the inhabitants would have a view of the people rushing into the Theatre, and taking their seats on that lofty eleva- tion ; and would, of course, themselves run with impetuosity, to see and hear the cause of the assembly. Under these circumstances, it is by no means matter of wonder, that the attention of the Town- Clerk was excited, and that he felt himself called on to interpose his authority. Contrasting the state of Ephesus as we found it with the circumstances just alluded to, there was suflScient room for astonishment at the mighty change. The plough has passed over the site of the city ; and we saw the green corn growing, in all APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 237 directions, amidst the forsaken ruins. While we were in the Theatre, two large eagles perched at a small distance above us, and seemed to gaze on us with wonder, as if astonished at the face of man. The lines of Cowper seemed most appropriate : — They are so unacquainted with man, Their tameness is shocking to me. From the Theatre we passed into the " Agora," or Forum. This public place was just below the Theatre ; and it was here that the law-proceedings were going forward, to which the Town- Clerk re- ferred Demetrius and his companions.^ I shall not dwell on the buildings, which have been so often described by travellers — the supposed ruins of Diana's Temple, the Corinthian Temple, the Odeum, and the Gymnasium — nor on the great beauty of the surrounding scenery. We may notice, however, the supposed ruins of a Christian Church, which may have been either the Church of St. John or that of the Virgin. We saw, at the east end, the Cross of the Knights of Rhodes, engraved on one of the stones ; and ** here was perhaps held," we said, ** the General Council, so well known in Ecclesiastical History." On leaving Ephesus, my mind was very naturally occupied with the important Epistle which was once ^ 'Ayopa7oi (^y]{/,€poci)f The days for the administration of justice. 238 VISIT TO THE addressed to the Angel of this Church : Rev. ii. 1 — 7. For a Missionary, that Epistle contains most useful instruction. It tells him there are some who call themselves Apostles^ hut are liars. What, then, would constitute me a false apostle ? Should I disseminate other doctrine than that which God has revealed — should I add any inventions of men, or hold hack any truths of God — or should I pro- pagate the Truth itself from improper motives or in an improper manner — I should, unquestionably, be a deceitful worker, even though I might assume the appearance of an angel of light. May the awful language of Inspiration ever fall with weight upon our ears, and be most deeply impressed on our hearts — Though we, or an angel from heaven, preach any other Gospel unto you than that which we have preached unto you, let him he accursed! and may the Spirit of Truth so fully enlighten the mind and so powerfully influence the heart of every Mis- sionary, that we may be workmen that need not to he ashamed, rightly dividing the word of Truth ! The Epistle teaches also every individual Christian, that it is possible to exhibit some brilliant parts of the Christian character, and to be distinguished for labour, for patience, for perseverance, and for other very excellent qualities, and yet to have a fatal malady commencing its attacks upon us, which threatens the very ruin of all our hopes — Never- theless, I have somewhat against thee, because thou APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 239 hast left thy first love ! How few there are, who do not feel the charge too applicable to themselves I How few, of whom it could be remarked, as of St. Augustine, " He never left his first love ! " Eut, unless we call to rememhrance the station from whence ice are fallen, and repent, and do the first works, that intimation of the Divine displeasure, which is here given, will not fail to be accomplished — / will come unto thee quickly, and mill remove thy candlestick out of his place, except thou repent. The neglect of such an admonition, in the case of an individual, would involve consequences analogous to those which are more peculiarly threatened against a whole community : but, when an entire body of Christians, when a Christian Church, becomes guilty of this sin, the indignation of God is exhibited in the face of the world itself At Ephesus we find, at present, only one individual who bears the name of Christ I — and where, in the whole region, do we discover any semblance of Pri- mitive Christianity I The country once favoured with the presence of St. Paul, of Timothy, and St. John, is now in the situation of those lands, of which it is said. Darkness covers the earth, and gross darkness the people — He. then, that hath cm ear, let him hear ichat the Spii'it saith unto the Churches. 240 VISIT TO THE FROM EPHESUS TO LAODICEA. After leaving Ephesus, we passed through a very beautiful country. We first ascended a romantic g-len, down which was flowing a pellucid rivulet : we were surrounded on all sides by the oleander and the finest shrubs and trees. In the course of the ascent, we passed under the arches of an ancient Aqueduct. The whole of the ride, till we ap- proached Enek-bazar, was through a hilly country, adorned by woods, romantic streams, and every thing calculated to amuse and delight the traveller. After resting a short time at a coffee-house, called Balatcliick, where we observed many fragments of columns, we descended toward the plain on which Magnesia-on-the-McBander (so called to distinguish it from Magnesia-by-Sipylus) was situated. The ground around the town had rather a marshy and threatening aspect, but we passed it without diflS- culty, and proceeded to examine with attention the ruins of this ancient city. The distance from Ephesus is seven hours. It is only recently that Mr. Hamilton has dis- covered, that these remains, called, by the Turks, Enek-bazar, are the relics of the Ancient Magnesia. They strike every visitor with surprise. The re- mains, in particular, of the Temple of Diana Leu- cophryne are suflScient to confirm the remark of APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 241 Strabo, that, in some respects, this building was superior to the temple of the Ephesian Diana itself. Mao^nesia is, at present, without inhabitants. A Turkish Mosque is standing; but we did not ob- serve any village within the distance of two or three miles. This is one of the cities which was presented by Artaxerxes to Themistocles, on that celebrated Athenian's taking refuge in his dominions. It was here that Themistocles had his residence ; and here, in all probability, he closed his life. It would be scarcely supposed probable, that Themistocles affords an example for the imitation of Missionaries: Erasmus has, however, discovered a circumstance in his life, which he has proposed as an incentive to Missionary Undertakings. In contending against the difficulty which results from the labour of leamino: foreisna ton^Ties, he reminds us that The- mistocles undertook to learn the language of Persia when he was already advanced in years, in order that he might render himself useful to the King, his patron : and should those, who are aiming to impart to their fellow- creatures the srreatest benent which can be conferred on man, shrink from their undertaking, on account of a difficulty which The- mistocles, and, we may add, such a multitude of other individuals, actuated by very inferior motives, have overcome .' This, to the best of my recollec- tion, is the purport of the remark. I will add, for M 242 VISIT TO THE the sake of those who may have felt themselves deterred by the obstacle in question, that the im- pediment is much less than it actually appears. A man, who is present in a land where every one around him speaks a new language, finds himself very soon capable of conversing, even on religious subjects. It is a mistake to suppose that years must pass away, before he can render himself useful. I am persuaded that a Missionary may enter on some, at least, of his duties almost immediately on his arrival ; and that he may hope also, with good reason, for the Divine Blessing on his endeavours. Is not the distribution of the Scriptures a most useful part of his office ? and what prevents him, if his lot is cast in a land where the Scriptures can be understood, from engaging in this service the very day that he sets foot in that land I There is something, besides, extremely interesting in the acquisition of a living tongue. Let no one compare the tedious study of a dead language, with the life, the excitement, and the interest of accents, which are sounding in his ears on every side. We have good evidence that Magnesia became a partaker of the blessings of Christianity in the earliest times. An Epistle of Ignatius to the Church established there is still extant ; and it gives us reason to belive, that the genuine spirit of Chris- tianity was at that time exerting its influence among its members. APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 243 In proceeding" to the Villasre of Uzumkum, we forded the Lytheus, a broad but skallow streanL, and entered on the beautiful and extensiye plain of the Maeander. We found a considerable number of Greeks in the village ; and the Aga allotted as a lodging in one of their best houses. They were principally natives of Cyprus, whom the chafes occasioned by the Greek Revolution had transferred to their present abode. I was exceedingly de- lighted by my intercourse with these poor peof\e ; and had an excellent opportunity of them on the most important subjects. They paid great attention to my remarks ; and, after I had concluded, Xicolas read to them, for a coBsiELerable time, from the Xew TesHfuit They could not themselves read; but vre left a Testmont and a variety of Tracts for the Priest, who was at a distance: and they promised to eaoigage ^m to read them in their hearing. We were much affected to observe the great distress of the Greeks in this place: they were full of inquiries concermas: the war, and had great ap- prehensions for their lives. The Greeks in the Turkish Empire are really in circumstances aot unlike those which have befallen the Jews — Tkt Lord shall give thee a trewtUiMg heart, amd fsdliMg of Ofs^ and sorrour of mind ; aud thy life shmH hmmg in doubt before thee : and them sJkalt fettr dmf mad night, and shalt have none assurance of thy life : M 2 244 VISIT TO THE Deut. xxviii. 65, 66. Notwithstanding the igno- rance and superstition of these poor Greeks, I have found it quite a relief to meet with them, after so much intercourse with Mahomedans. In a Christian we recognise a brother, even though he may have lost much that is important and valuable in his religion. I never yet found a Greek who was not acquainted with our Lord's declaration, Him thai cometh to me, I will in no wise cast out. ^pril 1, 1826 — We commenced our journey up the vale of the Maeander. The river itself was at some distance on our right : on the left we had Mount Messogis ; and, all along its base, a suc- cession of small hills, thrown into a thousand fan- tastic forms. We crossed several streams descending from the mountains ; and one of them so swollen, that it had almost carried away our baggage-horse. Two or three large villages lay in our route, and the largest and most regular encampment of Turcomans which I have yet seen. The tents of these wan- derers were, as usual, all black ; a circumstance which, viewed in connexion with their great neat- ness and regularity, may perhaps be deemed an illustration of Canticles, i. 5 : J am black hut comely, O ye daughters of Jerusalem ! as the tents of Keel ar, as the curtains of Solomon. It ought to be added, that, in Asia Minor, the tents of the Turcomans only are of this colour.^ ' This passage of Canticles has given rise to a diversity' of opinions : see APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 245 For about an hour previous to our arrival at Ghuzel-hissar, everv thing" indicated the approach to a large town. The country was finelv cultivated, and the road most excellent : on each side were fences, kept in the best order. The scene alto- gether was so similar to many parts of Enarland,. that, were it not for the difference of costume,, an Englishman might fancy himself in his own country. After seven hours from Uzunkum, we arrived at the larsre town of Ghuzel-hissar, capital of the Pashalic of Aideen. It is a place of considerable importance. Mr. Pascali. the English Vice-Consul, gave me the following information conceminsr it : — The number of houses he estimates at 12,000 : one hundred camel-loads of CTain are dailv consumed bv the poor : the Mosques are 16 or 18 : the Greeks and Armenians have each a Church : the Jews are •3000, and {>ossess ten Synagogues, of which five or six are public ; and there are eight or ten European families. The productions of the country are, grain, legumes, silk, wool, flax, hemp, honey, wax, oil, cattle, wine, figs, cotton, valonia, ^c. At present, a Mutselim resides at Ghuzel-hissar, as Representative of the Pasha. Soon after our Hxraer^ Obserratkns. Ctep. n. Oksenr. 3S. It mvst be a c k a awlt ^e to tbe tenls of tibe Tareoaans, i Il w i* sbielr, ik wi tM ke oAca diScaU to ^jciibe tbe attribate of coaaefiBess ; bat, ^ KTTSiis*' wrt of % -pnEfett, ^trr are a refj beaatiftl oigeet. 246 VISIT TO THE arrival, a fine young Turk, one of his Officers, called upon us at the khan, in order to offer his services in case we wished to visit his master. This young man was quite a gentleman in his manners ; and, heing a native of the Morea, spoke Modern Greek extremely well. As we anticipated only inconvenience, rather than advantage, from the visit which he proposed, we declined his kind offer. Travelling, as we were, with a Janissary and a Fir- man, we were happily under no necessity of wasting time in visits of ceremony. ^j}ril 2, 1826 — We visited the hill which hangs over the town, and whicti exhibits various remains of Ancient Tralles, From this elevation a most magnificent view presents itself. Beneath is the large town of Ghuzel-hissar, adorned with all its mosques and minarets : around, extending to an immense distance, is the beautiful plain of the Maeander, with the river pursuing its mazy course through the midst : beyond, are majestic mountains. I wonder not at the Turkish name of the town, Ghuzel-hissar, or " Beautiful Castle." The Church is an extremely dark building : on our visiting it, one of the Priests was eager to obtain our books, and I presented the Bishop and himself with such as I could spare. ^ We must take • The name of a Primitive Bishop of Tralles has been handed down to us ■with honour. This was Polybius, who paid a visit to St. Ignatius at Smyrna, whilst he was on his way to Rome. (See the Epistle of St. Ignatius to the Trallians.) . APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 247 effectual means for supplying the Christians of this large town with the Scriptures. The Greeks, ac- cording to the Bishop, occupy 300 houses. We received much kind attention here, from two young men who are Roman Catholics. To one of them 1 presented a small religious work in Italian; certain, that the best recompence for fa- vours, is to aim at conferring at eternal benefit. He ** loved Religion," he informed me, but he had ^* no pleasure in religious books." We have found in the khan a very interesting Greek lad, who is one of the unfortunate Sciote Captives : he has been led to apostatize from the Religion of Christ, and to embrace the faith of Turkey. Nicolas spoke with him very plainly on this subject, and inquired his reasons for such a step. He pleaded compulsion ; and declared that it was his intention, as soon as his term of servitude was expired, to make his escape to the Islands, and to return to the Religion of Christ. He received a New Testament, and promised to read it. The market-day, I am sorry to say, is Sunday : and Christians appear to be as much engaged in its avocations as Mahomedans : — My Sabbaths they have greatly polluted : Ezekiel xx. 13. The Turkish Village of Tchiosk is three hours- and-a-half from Ghuzel-hissar. Who ever ex- pected to find England in Asia Minor ! and yet the fine cultivation and the excellent road still 248 VISIT TO THE seem to persuade us that we are in our native country. We spent the night in a large coffee- house, surrounded, as usual, by smoking Turks. In one respect, I cannot but wish that the labouring orders in England were on a level with Mussul- mans. It would be happy for them if they were as free from habits of intoxication. Experience proves that coffee is incalculably better for the population of a country than intoxicating liquors. April 3, 1826. — This morning we passed through Sultan-hissar, the Ancient Nyssa. We found only two Greeks, strangers, from Mitylene. Including a deviation from our route, v/e were only five hours- and-a-half before we reached Nosli. This is a considerable place. The Greeks and Armenians have each a Church. After a ride of two hours more, we arrived at Cuijack, a large Turkish Village containing four Mosques. There are only three or four Greeks. To one of them I gave a New Testament. He estimated the number of houses at 3000. April 4. — We have now arrived in a country where a Frank is a curiosity : every one stares at us with surprise ; and some even come and examine our clothes, and try on our gloves. Nothing, how- ever, attracted so much attention as my writing with a lead pencil. An instrument of this descrip- tion had never, I conclude, been previously seen at Cuijack. APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 249 Soon after leaving this village, we discovered, on our right, what we had no doubt were the Ruins oi Antioch-on-the-Mceander. A Theatre was dis-- tinguishable ; and the description of the country- people confirmed our supposition. It was impos- sible for us to examine the ruins, as they were on the other side of the river ; and we had no means of crossing over. After pursuing our journey for some time, we rested at a coffee-house on the bank of the Maean- der ; and, soon afterward, arrived at a ferry. The boat was of a singular construction, being, in form, an isosceles triangle. Here we passed over to the opposite bank. The Maeander is, in this place, a broad, deep, and rapid stream : it would be just the river for steam-boats : the current, I apprehend, would be too strong for other vessels. Advancing a little further, we observed hot- springs to our right, smoking as if the water boiled ; and marking the site of the Ancient Ca- roura. The water which ran from them, and which crossed our path, was very hot to the touch. On our left were the ruins of an ancient bridge. From this place we also discerned, at a considerable dis- tance, the site of the Ancient Hierapolis, pre- senting the appearance of two white spots on the side of a mountain. It is called, by the Turks, Pambouk-Kalesi, the " Cotton Castle." In the course of our journey to-day, we came M 5 250 VISIT TO THE gradnally in sight of a majestic cliain of mountains covered with snow, which opened upon us to the right ; this is Mount Cadmus. We reached Sara- kioi about three o'clock in the afternoon, having spent seven hours in travelling from Cuijack. Sa- rakioi is a wretched village, formed of mud houses. To towns of this description, which are numerous in Asia Minor, the language of the book of Job is strictly applicable (Job iv. IS, 19) : Behold, he put no trust in his servants; and his angels he charged tcith folly : how much less in them that dvjell in houses of clay ! The situation of Sarakioi is so low, that I should suppose the whole neigh- bourhood must be a morass in winter. There is a considerable number of Greeks, and one Church. We were agreeably surprised to find here Pana- retos. Bishop of Philadelphia. He was engaged in making a tour of his diocese, and had already spent a few days at Sarakioi. When we first called on him, he was engaged in the performance of Evening Prayers with some of his attendants. It was to us a subject of surprise and sorrow, to observe the manner in which the Service was con- ducted. The hundreds of ** Kyrie eleesons," are repeated with a celerity which is perfectly amazing: in fact, you hear, in general, nothing more than " Leeson," " leeson," leeson,'^ *' leeson," — till the last utterance of the petition ; when, as if to make some amends for the baste of the preceding ex- APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 251 pressions, you hear a full and round enunciation of " Kyrie eleeson." One of the causes of this neglect of decorum is, doubtless, to he found in the immense length of the Greek Service. I have heard of one of them, which actually continues five hours. I have never met with a Greek Ecclesiastic of more pleasing address than the Bishop of Phi- ladelphia, He is young, probably not more than thirtv-five ; and exhibits an enero^v and warmth of character, which, under favourable circumstances, would lead, I should imagine, to very happy re- sults. I was sorry to find in him a degree of cold- ness on the subject of the Bible Society. He said that they had conversed on the subject in the Synod at Constantinople ; and I understood him that they considered the circulation of the Romaic Scriptures to be impracticable for the Church as a body, but that it might be left to the exertions of individuals. He also hinted his fears, that harm might result to the people, from an undirected use of the Scrip- tures. He brought forward, as an instance, the passage of St. Matthew (i. 25), u^nd knew her not till she had brought forth her first-horn. Here, he remarked, the common reader might be led to suppose that Mary did not remain a virgin after the birth of Christ, from the acceptation in which we at present take the word ei'<, t'dl. Past intercourse with Greeks had already taught me the iuexpe- 252 VISIT TO THE diency and inutility of contending hastily on this subject. To the doctrine of the perpetual virginity of Mary they are bound by such adamantine pre- judices, that a Missionary will find it better to direct their attention to more important subjects, than hastily to shock their feelings on a point of minor importance. It was the parting advice, which I received from a well-meaning inhabitant of Ithaca, — *' Attack not the perpetual virginity of the Panagia : " and, except when I have dis- cerned a previous preparation of mind, I have not deemed it advisable to say much on this subject. With these feelings, I did not contravene the idea of Panaretos ; but contented myself with shewing, that, whatever difficulties might be contained in the Scriptures, those points which were essential to salvation were obvious and intelligible. He very gladly received a New Testament and other books. In Sarakioi I saw the Oriental Church probably in its lowest state of depression. A miserable little room, in the public khan, had the name of a Church : and it was in one little better, in the opposite corner, that the Bishop of the Diocese was then residing. April 5, 1826. — This has been a most interesting day. I have visited the remains both of Hierapolis and Laodicea. We were four hours on our way from Sarakioi to Hierapolis. On the way, we came APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 253 to an encampment of Turcomans, surrounded by immense herds of cattle. Being* ig-norant of the road, we were desirous of engaging the services of one of the horde, as a guide. We had suc- ceeded, as we imagined, in regard to a person of this description, and he was already undertaking- to conduct us : but his wife, speedily obtaining in- formation of his resolution, hurried from the tent, and, with loud clamours, insisted on his return. At first, he seemed regardless of her remonstrances : but she persevered with so much determination, even following him to a considerable distance, that at length he submitted, and we were obliged to pursue our journey without him. We were, of course, left to conjecture that female power is by no means on a low footing among the Turcomans. Before we reached the Lycus, we passed through two mud villages ; and having crossed the river on a wooden bridge, we found a third on the other side. The ride from Sarakioi to Hierapolis was attended with danger. We had to cross a terrific marsh. Our horses sunk to a great depth ; and one of them had scarcely strength to carry his rider through it. I cannot describe how much I was struck with Hierapolis. There are three objects, all of which cannot fail to arrest attention. One is, the superb situation of the city. It is placed on the slope of Mount Messogis, which rises behind, to a con- 254 VISIT TO THE siderable elevation. In front, is the vast plain of the Maeander : beyond, are stupendous moun- tains, covered half down their sides with brilliant snow. There are only two principal features in the landscape ; but though so few, they are grand be- yond description. The second object, which excites amazement, is the frozen cascades : by this name I denote the four or five cataracts, which have been petrified in their course, and which display the whiteness of the purest snow. I question if the world elsewhere exhibits so surprising an instance of this phenomenon. The appearance is precisely that of roaring cascades, having been metamor- phosed, in an instant, into Parian marble. The size, too, of these snow-white water-falls is such, that they are visible at an immense distance. The third subject of surprise is, the ruins of the city: we see the most magnificent remains of antiquity, covering an extent of three or four miles in cir- cumference — we wander among massy walls — we are surrounded by inscriptions, statuary, and co- lumns — we pass under stupendous arches — we re- pose on marble seats of the Theatre. The Theatre is certainly the most striking relic of the Ancient Hierapolis : not only the seats, but great part of the proscenium still remains. Such a spectacle speaks, in powerful language, the transient nature of earthly grandeur — See what manner of stones ^ and what buildings, are these ! and yet a ruin little less than APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 255 that of Jerusalem has befallen them : neither the beauty of its situation, nor the salubrity of its waters, nor the strength of its buildings, has pre- served Hierapolis from utter destruction. May we, then, ever set our affections on that heavenly resi- dence which is the only true Hierapolis ! May we be denizens of that city, icIdcJi hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God! The works of God remain, though the labours of man have gone to decay. The waters, for which Hierapolis was famous, still retain their quality: we found them hot, even at some distance from their fountain ; and, having had our faces inflamed by the burning rays of the sun, it was refreshing and beneficial to bathe them in the tepid streams. To a Christian, Hierapolis is interesting, from the mention which is made of it in the Sacred Writings. In the Epistle to the Colossians (iv. 13,) St. Paul hears record to Epaphras, that he had great zeal for them in Hierapolis. Its vicinity to Laodicea and Colossae would naturally lead to the conclusion, that it enjoyed the privilege of the la- bours of Epaphras, at the same time with those two cities. It deserves also to be noticed, that the remains of two Churches are still visible. It is delightful, then, to reflect, that, amidst these ruins of idolatry and pleasure, is reposing the earthly part of many faithful Christians ; and that the last trumpet will call forth, from beneath the incrusta- 256 VISIT TO THE tions of Pambouk-Kalesi, many a glorified body, to heavenly mansions. At present, no Christian re- sides in the vicinity. There is only a miserable Turkish village, situated beneath the most eastern of the cascades. LAODICEA. From Hierapolis we directed our course toward another ancient city, which suggests, to the serious mind, topics of painful but of useful interest. I know of no part of the Sacred Scriptures which is more calculated to alarm the careless, than the Epistle to the Laodiceans, Rev. iii. 14 — 22. It is not merely the infidel, the profane, or the licentious, who find cause to tremble on reading these verses. Many, who have much that is amiable and moral in their deportment, are here brought under condemna- tion. Our Lord does not charge the Laodiceans with heinous crimes: He does not say, " Because thou dost not worship the Lord thy God — because thou dost not keep holy the Sabbath-day — because thou killest, committest adultery, or art living in open violation of every one of the Divine Com- mands : no ! awful as are the guilt and danger of such a condition, there is another state, most odious in the eye of the Almighty — Because thou art neither cold nor hot — because thou art luke- warm — because thou sayest, I am rich, aud in- APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 257 creased ivith goods, and have need of nothing. Let us carefully attend to the condition of the Laodi- ceans. They were Christians : they were Christians who had a Creed uncorrupted by human additions, and correct according to the very model of Apos- tolic Preaching : nor, as just noticed, were they chargeable with any open deviation from the path of God's Commandments. But they were not zealous for Christ : they were precisely in the situa- tion of those who condemn earnestness and activity on the subject of eternal salvation; who are con- tinually misapplying the precept. Be not righteous overmuch ; and who consider themselves possessed of many qualities extremely valuable in the sight of God, while they scarcely understand or even condemn those who frequently employ terms of self- condemnation. They did not feel themselves ex- cited to any powerful efforts, by the contemplation of their Redeemer's love, or by the force of His example. Their conduct shewed no signs of striv- ing to enter in at the strait gate — oi fighting the good fight of faith — of counting all things hut loss for the excellency of the knowledge of Christ Jesus our Lord — of praying without ceasing. They did not love that Saviour, whose religion they professed to adopt, more than their father, their mother, and their life itself: nor could they comply with His strict language, Wliosoever he he, of you, that forsaJceth not all that he hath, he cannot he my 258 VISIT TO THE disciple. Our Lord declares, therefore, His indig- natioD, in language the most expressive and alarm- ing — I ivill sjjue thee out of my mouth, Happy for those who feel the force of these admonitions and warnings! To such, promises are annexed, no less encouraging than the rebuke is alarming — Behold! I stand at the door and knock. If any man hear my voice, and open the door, I will come in to him, and will sup with him, and he with me — To him that overcometh will I grant to sit with me in my throne ; even a^ I also overcame, aud am set down with my Father in His throne. The first object which attracts attention at Laodi- cea is the great number of sarcophagi. In these, I reflected, the material part of many Laodicean Christians has returned, *' earth to earth — ashes to ashes — dust to dust : " their spirits have long since given account of the manner in which they availed themselves of the faithful admonitions of the Apo- calypse. The city of Laodicea was seated on a hill of mo- derate height, but of considerable extent. Its ruins attest, that it was large, populous, and splendid. There are still to be seen an Amphitheatre, a Theatre, an Aqueduct, and many other buildings. But its present condition is in striking conformity with the rebuke and threatening of God. Not a single Christian resides at Laodicea ! No Turk even has a fixed residence on this forsaken spot. APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 259 Infidelity itself must confess, that the menace of the Scriptures has been executed. It was a subject of interest to me, to find that the Amphitheatre, which still remains, was built not much later than the time when St. John wrote the Apocalypse : nor could I help inquiring, whether theatrical amusements might not have been one of the principal causes which induced the decay of spirituality at Laodicea. We know, from the passionate fondness of the Ancients for these sports, and also from the powerful condemnation of them by the Primitive Fathers, that they must have been a source of serious temptation to the early Chris- tians. Unhappy was the hour, when the Youth of either sex were prevailed on to take their seat in these splendid structures ! That solid and serious felicity which the Gospel imparts would soon be expelled, amidst such tumultuous assemblies ; and, with so many objects- to inflame the passions and to corrupt the heart, there was little prospect that a single visit would leave the individual without being infected with a dangerous contagion. Though cir- cumstances may be somewhat diff'erent in modern theatres, it is greatly to be apprehended that the results are not dissimilar. How many a Youth, who encouraged the best hopes, has been utterly ruined by these entertainments ! 260 VISIT TO THE FROM LAODICEA TO COLOSSiE. We spent the night in a Turkish Village near at hand. As if Christians had no claim even to the vicinity of Laodicea, it was here first that we met with incivility. It was difficult for our servants, who had gone before, to obtain us a lodging ; and, when we ourselves arrived, we found no disposition on the part of the villagers to treat us with kindness. Friendly demeanour, however, on our part, seemed at length to conciliate them ; and we enjoyed some refreshing repose, though our horses shared the same room with ourselves. We have by this time become accustomed to the unpleasantness of *' living in state ; " in other words, of being observed in every motion, whether eating, dressing, writing, &c., by a crowd of spectators. Knives and forks, and various articles which to Europeans are almost indispensable, are, in Turkey, objects of no small curiosity. April 6, 1826 — After an hour's ride, we arrived at Denizli. This is a large and flourishing town ; and, as we happened to visit it on the market-day, every thing wore an aspect of bustle and activity. There is a considerable number of Greek residents : they assert that they occupy 60 houses ; and I was glad to find Romaic still spoken by them. They have one Church ; and we heard of another of the Armenians. After continual exposure to observa- APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 261 tion for so long a time, it was to me quite a treat to find an opportunity for retirement and prayer. Here, also, I was permitted, in some degree, to exercise my proper office. I had much conversation on Religion with a Greek from Conieh (the Ancient Iconium), and with three or four others. The Missionary who would aspire to revive the ancient Churches of Hierapolis, Laodicea, and Colossae, must establish himself at Denizli : here he would be in the neighbourhood of them all : but he would have a difficult post. The union of the Medical with the Clerical character would probably remove some obstacles. In the afternoon, we pursued our journey. Soon after leaving the town, we met with a remarkable instance of the phlegmatic disposition of the Turks. The Janissary's horse, passing over a small bridge, lost his footing, fell down, and threw his rider with considerable violence. We were apprehensive that he had received a serious injury, especially as he is a large man. He rose, however, very coolly — remounted — rode on and did not utter a single syllable. We now found ourselves in a country which merits, by its appearance, to belong to the district called KaryjKav[A€>yij or the consumed. It consists, for the most part, of small hills, exceedingly sterile ; and almost resembles, in colour, a dusty high road. We soon passed into a more fertile country. We 262 VISIT TO THE crossed a river, upon a stone bridge of three arches, having on our left a large and deserted khan. Soon afterward we travelled a green district, abounding with low brushwood : a fine Daphne was flowering amidst it. We next arrived on the banks of a stream ; which, after we had followed it up for a short distance, we were surprised to find springing all at once from a gentle acclivity. It appears suddenly to view, much in the manner that the river Aire in Yorkshire presents itself to light, from beneath the immense rock called Malham Cove. We also found ancient ruins in the water ; and close at hand a stone is visible, with a cross upon it, and a circle described around it. At first, we were ready to suppose that we had met with the re- appearance of the Lycus mentioned by Herodotus ; but subsequent examination caused us to question this opinion. On the way from hence to Konos, we traversed a beautiful wood ; in which the vines were climbing to the summits of the trees, and suspending them- selves in a very elegant manner from the branches. On the right, we had romantic mountain scenery. Mount Cadmus was close at hand, crowned with forests ; and the snow was glittering amidst the trees. Europeans, we find, are an object of terror in this country. A boy, who was driving an ass on the road before us, as soon as he perceived our approach, forsook his ass, fled with the utmost APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 263 precipitation, and hid himself among the brush- wood. We approached Konos with feelings of no small excitement. Where is the Ancient Colossae i What remains of the Church of Epaphras i Are any individuals still to be found, who have been made meet to be partakers of the inheritance of the saints hi light, having been delivered from the power of darkness, and translated into the kingdom of God's dear Son ? (Col. i. 12, 13.) The answer is a melancholy one. The very spot on which Colossse stood is still uncertain : but, what is most afflicting, the condition of Christianity in this region has undergone a change, as total as the overthrow of the city. Earthquakes have often destroyed the works of Art — and, alas ! the world and sin appear to have usurped the place where once the work of Grace flourished. In fact, we find that the Chris- tians of these countries have fallen into those very errors against which St. Paul warned them : (Col. ii. 18.) They have been beguiled of their reivard, in a voluntary humility and worshipping of angels : and, instead of considering themselves complete in Christ (v. 10), and dead with Him from the rudiments of the world, they are subject to ordinances, {touch not, taste not, handle not, which all are to perish with the using,) after the commandments and doc- trines of men : (20 — 22.) Perhaps a principal source of all these evils has been their neglect of 264 VISIT TO THE St. Paul's advice (iii. 16) : Let the word of Christ dwell in you richly in all icisdom. After a ride of four hours and-a-half from Denizli, we reached Konos, which has long been considered to occupy the site of Colossa?. The Christians of this place inhabit 30 houses ; the Turks, 500. There is one Church, and there are three Mosques. Here we were sorry to find a total ignorance of Modern Greek. A Native of Cyprus is the only Priest, and the only individual who can speak that language. Wherever Turkish has supplanted Greek, of course the Romaic Scriptures are of no value : nor does the Turkish Testament supply the deficiency; for, partly because the Greeks are ignorant of the Turkish characters, and partly because the Turks are jealous of the introduction and use of this Volume, it has become necessary to prepare Turkish Scrip- tures in the Greek letter. Whatever Publications they possess are of this description ; and I noticed, that their inscriptions on tombs are of the same kind. It is a natural inference, which is unhappily too well confirmed by fact, that where the Greeks are only acquainted with Turkish, their knowledge of the New Testament will be proportionably less : indeed, they are almost totally ignorant of it. — Where Romaic is spoken, its similarity to Ancient Greek still enables the attentive to have some knowledge of the Lessons of the Gospel which are read at Church ; but here, such a degree of light APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 265 is impossible. With regard, then, to Modern Co- lossae, more than any part of the Eastern Church which I have yet visited, I find it necessary to leave out the negative in St. Paul's declaration, (2 Tim. ii. 9,) and to say, The Word of God is — bound. jlpril 7, 1826. — We were eager this morning to visit the neighbourhood, and to ascertain, if possi- ble, the identity of the situation with Colossa?. We met, however, with an impediment to our wishes, in the incivility of the Aga. Half the day was spent before we could commence our researches : first, we had to send the Janissary, — next to visit the Aga in person, — afterward, to send Mr. Arun- dell's Firman and the Booryurdee, — and, last of all, it was not till we had made a small present of money that we could obtain permission to take our walks. We began, indeed, to fear that we should be treated as Chandler was at Hierapolis, especially when the Aga observed to Mehmet that he paid no regard to Firmans or the Ambassadors of European Powers. At length, under the conduct of one of his men, we made a short tour of the vicinity. We first ascended the wide bed of a torrent, which descends from Mount Cadmus and passes through the town ; and then mounted part of an almost impregnable rock, on which are the ruins of Turkish fortifications. The view from this ele- vation is imposing : close beneath is Konos, pre- N 266 VISIT TO THE senting to the eye a considerable extent of flat roofs, and trees, and gardens. That we were near some ancient city appeared evident, from the rollers which we observed on almost every roof. These are parts of ancient columns, which have been jemoved from their places to perform this service. From hence we visited the eastern extremity of the town, and afterward passed along on the south side. We found nothing to reward our inquiries ; till, on proceeding to the distance of perhaps a mile to the south-west, we met with the remains which we were disposed to consider as those of the Ancient Colossce, We saw, indeed, no inscription which attested the fact, nor did we even find any river sinking into the earth ; but the existence of ancient ruins covering a considerable space of ground, and other circumstances, seemed to favour the suppo- sition. Want of time, and the obstacles thrown in our way, prevented that accurate investigation of the country which would have been requisite. Let future Travellers follow up the Lycus from Lao- dicea ; and I have little doubt but they will find Colossas. The remarks which follow were written on the supposition of our treading on the exact site of this ancient city. It is certain that we were at no great distance. Here, then, reposes whatever was mortal of the Church of Colossse. With the exception of Epa- phras, Archippus, Philemon, and Onesimus, the APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 267 very names of the inhabitants are forgotten. But, in truth, very different has been their end, from the death of those who are unconnected with their Religion : When Christy who is our life, shall appear, then ivill they also appear ivith Him in glory. (Col. iii. 4.) The place on which I tread is a sacred spot of earth. Here have been depo- sited the seeds of immortality. Here is concealed a treasure, which, ere long, will adorn the very courts of Heaven. The place where the remains of a Believer rest is precious. With the eye of sense, I view nothing here but scattered stones, adorned by violets, anemones, and hyacinths ; but, by faith, I foresee the exertion of Divine Power amidst these ruins. Those who sleep in the dust, shall awake — such as rejected the message of mercy declared to them by Epaphras, to shame and ever- lasting contempt — the hlippy number, who gave it a welcome reception, to everlasting life. That the actual situation of Colossae should still be a subject admitting of further investigation, is a melancholy evidence of the utter ruin which has befallen that ancient city. Long since have disappeared, not only all the pious labours of Epaphras and his suc- cessors, but the very buildings, amidst which they resided. At present, the ground is, for the most part, cultivated, where we supposed the city to stand ; and no remains are visible, which are either calculated to excite curiosity or to gratify taste. N 2 268 VISIT TO THE FROM COLOSSiE TO APAMEA AND ISBARTA. April ^y 3826. — We left Konos at eight in the morning. On our way, we crossed two or three mountain- streams ; one of them much larger than any of those near Konos, and about an hour and- a-half distant. Further on, we observed, on the right, a white formation, resembling that of Hiera- polis, though by no means so large : the plain of the Lycus soon after closes up. After a gentle ascent, in a direction nearly due east, we arrived on a beautiful plain, covered with the finest turf, and surrounded by small hills crowned with wood : at the extremity were two or three small huts, with a coffee-house ; and, after another gentle rise, a se- cond plain of much larger extent. At four in the afternoon, we arrived at Chardar, a very miserable Turkish village : we obtained accommodations of a moderate description, and found the inhabitants exceedingly friendly. April 9. — To-day we had the intention of pro- ceeding but a short distance, a Sahhath-day s jour- ney : but, unexpectedly, not meeting with a single house for more than nine hours, we were compelled to proceed as far as Deenare. On leaving Chardar, at seven o'clock, there was a stillness and serenity all around, which seemed to harmonise with a Christian Sabbath : but. APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 269 ** The sound of the Church-going bell These valleys and rocks never heard." or, if the invitation to Christian Worship was ever known, it has long- since been superseded by the cry of the Muezzin. O, for the time when we shall hear of Christian Mustaphas, Omars, Alis, and Mehmets ! Soon after leaving Chardar, we arrived at the upper end of a large lake, and, for several hours, rode along at no great distance from its edge. All persons assert that the waters are bitter, and that it contains no fish : we found it difficult to taste the waters ourselves, on account of the marshy ground all along the shore : its extent is considerable, at least twelve miles ; and its breadth, four. This must be the Lake of Anava, spoken of by Hero- dotus. Our route lay on the north side. On our left, we had a long mass of rock clothed with pines, and at its base a succession of beautiful little nooks and dells. Beyond the lake are lofty snow-capped mountains. Afterward followed a very extensive and uninteresting plain. At a well, distant five hours from Chardar, we rested for a short time, and then pushed on to Deenare. Great part of the day, we had a Roman Road running along our route. An hour before Deenare we lost this road ; and then descended into another plain, lying north and south, with considerable mountains on the other side. Our route was almost due east, the whole 270 VISIT TO THE day. Just before entering Deenare, we crossed, by a bridge of stone, a rapid stream, running to the northward : the inhabitants called it the Magander. We had to spend the night in company of a large number of horses, oxen, asses, and fowls : the house, in fact, rather seemed to be an immense stable, than the residence of human beings : the cattle occupied by far the larger part of the build- ing : a corner only, which was slightly elevated above the rest of the floor, was appropriated to the owners. To complete the annoyance, the Mussul- mans rose at midnight in order to feast, this being the season of Ramazan. Repose was hopeless, under such circumstances. April 10, 1826. — On our first walk, we found extensive ruins on the north side of the town. There is abundance of ancient pottery, scattered columns, and marble fragments : we also saw the site of a Theatre, but the stones have been removed. The stream, which I mentioned yesterday, is consi- derable : it flows from the south-east ; and must at least be a tributary, if not one of the sources of the Mpeander. Our second walk was more successful than the first. The Firmans had obtained for us full liberty; and our Turkish host conducted us at once to an old wall within the precincts of a private house, in which we found no less than five inscriptions. We copied them all : and one of them commencing — APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 271 '* The people of the Apolloniats . . . . " led us first to suppose that we were on the site of j4poUonia ; but subsequent research led to the conviction that we were treading on the ruins of the large city of Apamea, We next proceeded to the south and east sides of the town, and found there very extensive remains : the blocks of stone are immense : the In- scriptions also were exceedingly numerous, but they were chiefly sepulchraU The discovery of this an- cient city, which will probably be of importance in aiding further researches in regard to the antiquities of Asia Minor, is entirely due to my friend Mr. Arundell. It was he who had the sole planning of this part of the journey; and whatever information it may elicit, I most gladly attribute to his exer- tions. I had, for my own part, formed no other design than that of visiting the Ancient Churches of this country ; but, finding myself favoured in a fellow-traveller so distinguished by his scientific knowledge, I felt most happy to coincide with his further plans, hoping at once to obtain additional in- formation on the religious state of the interior, and in some degree to encourage an inquiry into its an- cient geography. Deenare, or, as some pronounce it, Dingnare, contains, according to report, 100 Turkish Houses and one Mosque. There are generally three or four Greek visitors, but none are resident. We hap- pened to be here on the market-day, and witnessed 272 VISIT TO THE no small degree of commercial activity. The streets were thronged with people. We left Deenare about two o'clock in the after- noon ; and travelled, in a south-easterly direction, to Ketzi-Borlu, where we arrived at six. Our route lay, for a time, through a iine plain, and crossed two moderate streams : after the plain, we ascended lofty hills. The forest scenery was ex- ceedingly extensive : it stretched over valley and mountain, as far as the eye could reach. After crossing the hills, we again arrived in a beautiful plain. The whole of Asia Minor seems to consists of lofty mountains or extensive plains. I am also struck to observe, that the plains, in general, seem to form an angle with the hills, rather than an arc : they give me the idea of a grassy lake. Ketzi-Borlu is beautifully situated ; but, upon entrance, you find it to consist, like the other Turkish Villages which we have lately seen, of nothing but mud huts. Here we found some difficulty in ob- taining a lodging ; the first Turk, to whom we were directed by the Aga, treating us in a manner totally inconsistent with the renown of Mussulman hospi- tality : at length we found another, who was cer- tainly the most friendly we had yet met with. An old Dervish paid us a visit ; but he gave us no very high idea of the self-denial of his fraternity : he was extremely eager to drink brandy, and seemed not a little chagrined when we could not gratify his wishes. APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 273 Ketzi-Borlu contains 150 Turkish Houses, and one Mosque. FROM ISBARTA TO PHILADELPHIA. April 11, 1826. — We arrived at Isharta in five hours-and-a-half, travelling" towards the south. First, we passed over level ground ; and, on our right, at a considerable distance, appeared the large Salt Lake of Burdur, shining with its light green waters: on both sides, north-east and south-west, it has high mountains. Beyond the north-east range must be the large Lake (Anava), which we passed the other day. After the plain of Ketzi-Borlu, we ascended hills of greater elevation. The heat was exceed- ingly oppressive. On descending, we had the stu- pendous Mount Taurus just before us, and at our feet the extensive Plain of Isbarta. We are dis- posed to denominate this champaign, The Plain of Whirlwinds, from the large number of these sin- gular phenomena which we here observed. One of them, at the distance of three or four miles, appeared like a column of dust of 400 or 500 feet in height. The plain itself is dusty and unpleasant. Isbarta is situated close to the southern edge, and appears to be of extensive dimensions : we counted five Minarets, upon entering. April\2 — We have just returned from a visit to one of the Greek Churches. We met with a Priest N 5 274 VISIT TO THE from the Morea, to whom we presented a Greek Testament ; but Turkish is the common language. The Greeks, according to the Priest, have fi\e Churches. Isbarta is in the Diocese of Pisidia, the Bishop having his residence at Lisi near Attalia. The Church is a very dark place, not even having, as is usual, a lamp burning, and being almost half under ground. Its condition is, I fear, but too apt an emblem of the minds of its habitual visitants. We have since had a call from two other Greek Ecclesiastics, who came for Testaments : we could spare only a single copy and some Tracts, but we directed them how to obtain them at Smyrna. One of the Priests confessed that they were blind, and, to use his own expression, " like asses." We gave them Christian advice ; and, informing them of the Turkish Testament in Greek characters, which is in a course of preparation, exhorted them to stimulate the people to procure it. Thus have we enjoyed the delight of conveying the Word of Eternal Life to the base of Mount Taurus. There are some Arme- nians here, who have a small Church. Isbarta might be called the City of Poplars, from the immeuse number of these trees which rise up amidst the houses. We have frequently discovered villages, by observing at a distance a grove of poplars. ^pril 14, 1826 — Left Isbarta soon after eight. We had not proceeded to a great distance, before APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 275 we began to ascend the mountains. The road was nothing else than the channel of a stream, which pours down into the plain : we were, of course, per- petually employed in crossing" its waters. The whole ride was exceedino^lv romantic. On both sides were high rocks of the most extraordinary formation — Nature's towers, churches, pinnacles, and minarets. We also saw the remains of two ancient bridges. But, singular and interesting as was the commence- ment of the ascent, we soon found it become still more extraordinary : we were quite involved in Alpine dangers. This was occasioned by the deep snows, which were resting on the declivities of the mountain. The route was entirely lost : our horses had the utmost diflficulty in making their way, and it became necessary for our attendants themselves to carry part of the baggage. Having gained a little '* oasis ' in this snowy desert, I sat down and sung the lines, Gaile me, O Thou Great Je'novali ! Pflgrim tirroug-h this barren land : I am weak, but Thou art mighty , Save me by thy powerful hand : Bread of heaven ! Feed me, till I want no more. After arriving on the summit of the mountains, we met with few obstacles ; and descended without difficulty to the village of AgJasoo. Perceiving, on our left, the Ruins which had been celebrated by Lucas, Mr. Arundell and mvself turned aside to 276 VISIT TO THE view them ; and were so much struck with what we saw, that we determined to survey them at our leisure on the following day. April 15, 1826 — I now write in the Theatre of Sagalassus ; for that such is the ruined city by which we are surrounded, is proved by an Inscrip- tion which we have just discovered. For a long time we searched in vain ; and I began to think that this was one of the cities whose memorial had per- ished ivith them. What a striking instance of the transitory nature of earthly glory ! It was only by means of an Inscription, half buried in the earth, that the name of this magnificent city was rescued from oblivion. On this Mr. Arundell read with difficulty, H2ArAAA25EaNnOAI2;ni2 " THE CITY OF THE SAGALASSEANS OF PISIDIA." The situation of Sagalassus is most extraordinary : it may be styled the " City of Snows : " for, even at this moment the snow is resting in the area of the Theatre below us, and we are surrounded on every side by snow-capped elevations. Stupendous Mount Taurus is visible at an immense distance, and successive parts of the same ridge approach nearer and nearer. It is but a peep which is allowed into the plains : mountains are the chief features of the picture. The Ruins of Sagalassus exhibit remains of most, APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 277 if not of all those ancient buildings which usually adorned the cities of antiquity. They are chiefly -. ranged in two lines, at right angles with each other ; one lying in the direction of east and west, the other of north and south : the former line runs parallel with the mountain, on the slope of which the town is situated ; the other descends the hill to a considerable distance.^ Careful investigation would discriminate the Gymnasium, the Odeum, the Acro- polis, Temples, and perhaps even Churches. Mr. Arundell has detailed the Ruins with accuracy:" it is superfluous, therefore, for me to say more on the subject. I must not, however, omit to express my admiration of the Theatre : this edifice is still in excellent preservation, with the exception of some parts of the proscenium. Here a spectator may obtain the most accurate acquaintance with these ancient structures : he may mount the steps, ascending from the area to the highest seats : he may pass along the galleries ; and he may traverse the vaulted passages. It was a source of gratification to me, to observe symptoms of Christianity amidst the numerous symbols of Heathen Worship. We saw a cross engraved on the large building at the western ' The description of Livy is exact — " situs inter paucas munitae urbis." Lib. xxxviii. 15. 2 See his * Visit to the Seven Churches of Asia.' 278 VISIT TO THE approach, and another under one of the sepulchral vaults hewn out in the rock. The remains of Sagalassus are the most deserted of any which I have yet seen. They have been abandoned to the partridges : we were continually starting these birds, during our examination of the building ; and we also aroused a fox from his re- treat in the Theatre. Nothing, perhaps, can be a more striking proof of the grandeur of antiquity, than to discover such splendid ruins in a place of so little celebrity : and, in surveying such an object, we are powerfully taught, that not only the exist- ence of man, but even the duration of his proudest works, is transitory and precarious. In the Village of Aglasoo we find, according to report, 100 Turkish Houses and one Mosque. The village itself, and the neighbourhood, are strewed with the remains of antiquity. This morning I was astonished to observe a crowd of Turkish women, collected round our dwelling : they were drawn thither by an eager desire to get a sight of us ; and so different are Turkish manners in this part of the interior from those of the coast, that they were not even veiled. During our absence, a still larger number, as we learnt, had assembled ; some of them with the de- sire of medical assistance : and one of these, though she was conscious of no complaint, was desirous of ascertaining, by means of a physician, if she was APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 279 in health ! The custom, which is almost universal among Turkish women, of concealing" their faces beneath their large veils as soon as they perceive a stranger approaching, reminds me of what is related of Rebekah, Gen. xxiv. 65 : She said unto the servant, What man is this, that ivalketh in the field to meet us ? And the servant said, It is my master : therefore she took a veil, and covered her- self. The original has it. She took the veil; or, as we say, her veil. A youth in the house where we reside was asked if any Franks had ever before visited the village. The term " Frank" he did not understand ; but, on the question being changed into the inquiry, whether any '* Giaours," or *' Infidels," had ever been here, he replied, ** No." April 16, 1826 — Left Aglasoo at eight in the morning, and travelled in a westerly direction. We traversed a plain adorned with trees, and afterward ascended considerable hills. The Savine-tree is very abundant on these heights. At eleven, we arrived at the Village of Tchinaya. Thence we crossed a fine plain, in high cultivation ; and, be- yond it, arrived in a most barren region : hills abound, with scarcely a blade of grass, and of the colour and consistency of pipe-clay. We descended a singular gully by the side of a rapid stream, crossed by several bridges. It is truly a country of desolation. 280 VISIT TO THE We arrived at Burdur, a quarter before two. This town is larg-e : they inform us of 150 Greek houses and one church. There is a schoolmaster, who teaches ancient Greek. We met with a Turk here who is employed in one of the most melan- choly services which can degrade human-nature ; but who is, at the same time, possessed of more intelligence than usually falls to the lot of his countrymen. He is a Slave Dealer ; and has just arrived with twelve Negroes, whom he is conduct- ing from Egypt to Constantinople. As he spoke Italian, I had much conversation with him ; and found that his slaves were from the neisrhbourhood of Tripoli, and that the price of one of them might be 1500 piastres. Mr. Arundell would have been glad to purchase a Boy, for the most benevolent purposes ; but the owner declined, on the ground that the law of Turkey forbade the sale of Slaves to Franks. It is a reflection, disgraceful to our country, that the Slave of a Turk may be accounted more happy than the Slave of an Englishman. At the end of seven years, it is usual for the Turk to emancipate his Slave, at least if he become a Mahometan ! nor are Slave Drivers, armed with whips, ever heard of in the country of Mus- sulmans ! I have found here Greeks from Joannina ; and have been pressing them to seek relief from their sorrows, in Him who says, Coine unto me, all that APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 281 labour and are heavy-laden, and I icill give you rest. I had also a long- conversation with Anasta- sius, a Greek, who practices as a Physician: but how difficult is it to persuade men to be eternally happy ! We gave him a Xew Testament : he in- formed us of three Hungarian Physicians, who had, not long since, become Mussulmans. ^jjril 17, 1826 — We left Burdur at half-after- seven ; and arrived at Yazakioi, after a ride of some hours, along the Salt Lake. We reached Atchikioi at half- after -five : the road was not very interesting. j4pril 18 — Our accommodations in this small vil- lage were unusually good : we were even favoured with a kind of tray, which answered the purpose of a table. Left Atchikioi at half-after-seven ; and, soon after three, arrived at Bashfchesme. We passed a fresh-water lake, two or three hours from Atchikioi, about five miles long, and two or three broad. We next ascended a rocky defile, adorned with beautiful forest scenery, and passed a second time into the large Plain of Chardar. Coming to a well, without possessing the means of obtaining water, we were forcibly reminded of our Lords situation near Sychar — Sir, thou hast nothing to draw with, and the well is deep. This mornins", as we were ridinGj- alous:, I read the Epistle to the Colossians with great delight. What heavenlv satisfaction does the Word of God 282 VISIT TO THE afford ! I can find no other rest for the soul ! May God give grace to myself, and to every Christian Missionary, to attend to the admonition addressed to a Minister of this Church — Say to Archippus, Take heed to the Ministry which thou hast received in the Lord, that thou fulfil it. Our ride over the plain was exceedingly sultry. We passed through a weary land; and longed, in vain, for the shadow of a great rock, under which to obtain shelter. April 19, 3826 — We started at half-after-five; and passed along a route, great part of which we had previously travelled. We left Konos considera- bly to the left ; and went forward through the Plain of the Lycus, crossing the river which comes down from below Konos, on a bridge of two arches, and not halting till we arrived at Bujalee. About two in the afternoon we arrived at Denizli. Vegetation is much more advanced in this neighbourhood than in the country which we have just passed : the trees are now assuming their summer attire. Had serious conversation with Pappas Immanuel, a Rhodian ; we gave him Tracts, entreating him to read them to his people. Though we see little of real Christianity in these countries, it is not lost for ever. Like the Lycus, at Colossae, it may dis- appear for a time ; but we have the best authority for believing that it will, ere long, rise again to view, in its pristine glory. April 20, 1826 — I feel it my duty to record APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 283 Mr. Arundell's medical attention to the people. During the whole journey, he has exerted himself, in the most laudable manner, for the benefit of applicants. Every Traveller in the East is well aware how perpetual are applications of this nature : all Franks are supposed to be Physicians. At Burdur, a Turk seized my hand, and by main force applied my fingers to his pulse ; and it was with difficulty that I could make him understand that I was not a medical practitioner. How delightful would it be, were those, whose office it is to impart health and life to the immortal part of man, to meet with an equal degree of solicitation ! but the most melancholy symptom, in the innumerable maladies of the soul, is insensibility to the disease. Left Denizli at two in the afternoon, and reached Sarakioi soon after six. On the way, we observed a large swarm of locusts. The country has been visited for the last two years by this terrible scourge; and the same calamity again threatens it. u^pril 21 — Last night we retired to rest in what appeared one of the best rooms which we have occupied during the journey ; but, at midnight, we were roused by the rain pouring through the roof, and I found it necessary to rise and dress. In flat- roofed houses this is a frequent occurrence. I discover in this adventure an illustration of Prov. xxvii. 15 — A continual dropping in a very rainy dayy and a contentious woman, are alike. The 284 VISIT TO THE LXXII have it — Drops of rain in a wintery day, drive a man out of his house; and just so a railing woman. The Vulg-ate speaks expressly of the roof through which the water passeth. I was literally driven out of the house by the rain descending through the roof; and sought for shelter in the corridor, which was better protected. In walking here, at this midnight-hour, I was much interested to hear the Mussulman Hymns resounding from the minaret of the Mosque, This practice, which is usual with the Turks during the season of Ramazan, has a very solemn effect. I must add, there is to me something highly interesting in the Muezzin's proclaiming from the minaret the hour of prayer. I have often listened to it with serious feelings, though the language is foreign to me, and though it is a part of the Mahomedan Service. There is also a sublime and affecting simplicity in the language which is employed — '' God, Most High ! I attest that there is no God but God ! I attest that Mahomet is the Prophet of God ! Come to prayer : come to the assembly of Salvation. Great God ! There is no God but God ! " — May the clause concerning Mahomet be soon exchanged for the Confession, " I believe that Jesus is the Son of God." This morning I witnessed an affecting exemplifi- cation of the manner in which instruction is con- veyed among the Greeks. Hearing the sound of APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 285 recitation, I followed it into an apartment of the khan, and found a Priest engaged in teaching his son. The Youth had before him one of the large volumes employed in the Greek Services, and which are written in a language unintelligible to him. ' From this book, his father engaged him in a con- tinual repetition of the words, 'AXa^wv 'la-pariX, ^latifove Xa€f Ti TtaBoov, rlv BapctjSjSav ^KevBepucrac,, koI tov 2wT^/3a iiipohcoKa; ra (rravp^ ; Arrogant Israel, bloody people, impelled by what injuries didst thou liberate Ba- rabbas, and betray the Saviour to the Cross f By dint of such continual repetition, the poor little fellow would, at length, be able to read a book, without understanding its meaning. The custom of teaching children by means of the ancient lan- guage has been universal, till lately, among the Greeks. From the words which T have just quoted, we may observe, in passing, in what manner prayers to Saints had their origin. First, the Saint was addressed in a rhetorical manner, just as language is above directed to the people of Israel ; and, by degrees, what was nothing but bold apostrophe, began to be understood as the words of prayer and adoration. From the apartment of the Priest, I passed into an adjoining School, which afforded me much greater satisfaction. Here I found a Young Greek, with the New Testament of the Bible Society in his hand. It was delightful to observe in him a dispo- 286 VISIT TO THE sition not unworthy of comparison with the spirit of the Ethiopian Eunuch : Hoiv can I understandy lest some one guide me ? In fact, he acknowledged his incapacity to understand the truths of Divine Revelation ; and I had one of those delightful opportunities, which refresh so much the spirit of the Missionary, of directing him to Christ, and to Christ alone, as the Saviour of Sinners. I pointed out a variety of important passages in the New Testament, read them with him, and marked them for his future study, I learned, with no small satisfaction, after- wark, that it was his full intention to proceed, with another young man, to Corfu, in order to study at the University there. I thank God for my inter- course with the Young Schoolmaster of Sara- kioi : he has heard the truth in a most teachable spirit. Though the rain continued, we determined to proceed. We crossed the Maeander for the fourth and last time, over a large wooden bridge. After the rain had passed off, we encountered most severe cold. Suffering extremely from the rigour of the weather, we arrived at Bullada ; and were glad to find relief, by kindling a large fire in our room in the khan. Bullada is a large Turkish town, situated on the declivities of Mount Messogis : it contains a thousand houses and eleven Mosques. April 22, 1826— How extraordinary! This morning we find ourselves surrounded by a snow- APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 287 white world. Who would have expected this cir- cumstance in Asia Minor, on the 22d of April ! Courtship, it appears, is, in Turkey, a transaction of no great length or difficulty. Mehmet, our Ja- nissary, during the few hours' stay which we had made in BuUada, has been betrothed to a Turkish Female. He cannot see her, till the day on which they are married. This is the weather for great coats, umbrellas, flannels, and whatever can defend or invigorate the human constitution. Such were our feelings on leaving BuUada. After crossing Mount Messogis, we found a more genial climate. The mountain itself is uninteresting. On the side of Philadelphia, we traced a small river for a considerable distance, and forded it full twenty times : the scenery on the bank is enchanting. One day's march was of six hours' continuance. We passed Derbent, and spent the night at InnighiouL PHILADELPHIA. April 23, 1826 — In no part of my journey have I risen with more lively anticipations. To-day I expect to see Philadelphia. May the blessing of Him that is holy and true accompany me thither ! May I learn, by this visit, to imitate the members of that Ancient Church, which so faithfully kept the word of our Lord's patience ; and finally become. 288 VISIT TO THE with them, a pillar in the temple of God, and go no more out! After a ride of four hours we arrived at Phila- delphia. As we drew near, I read with much interest the Epistle (Rev. iii. 7 — 13) to that Church. The town is situated on a rising" ground, beneath the snowy Mount Tmolus. The houses are embosomed in trees, which have just assumed their fresh green foliage, and give a beautiful effect to the scene. I counted six minarets. We entered through a ruined wall ; massy, but by no means of great antiquity. The streets are excessively ill paved and dirty. The tear of Christian pity must fall over Modern Philadelphia. Were Christ Himself to visit it, would He not weep over it, as once over Jerusalem ? Alas ; the generation of those who kept the ivord of our Lord's patience is gone by ; and here, as in too many other parts of the Christian Vineyard, it is difficult to discover better fruits than those which are afforded by briars and bram- bles ! It is, indeed, an interesting circumstance, to find Christianity more flourishing here than in many other parts of the Turkish Empire. There is still a numerous Christian Population, occupying 300 houses. Divine Service is performed every Sunday, in five Churches ; and there are twenty of a smaller description, in which, once a year, the Liturgy is read. But though the candlestick remains, its light is obscured : the lamp still exists, but where is its APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 289 oil ? Where is now the word of our Lord's patience ? — it is conveyed in sounds unintelligible to those who hear. When the very Epistle to their own Church is read, they understand it not ! The word of legendary superstition and of multifarious will- worship is now more familiar to their ears. And where is the bright exhibition of Christian Virtues ? — unhappily, the character of Christians in these countries will scarcely bear comparison with that of Mahomedans themselves ! In a word, Philadelphia has had her share in that utter apos- tacy from true and practical Christianity which has been the bane of the East. Grievous wolves have entered in, not sparing the flock: (Acts xx. 29.) There have been false teachers among them, who privily have brought in damnahle heresies, even denying the Lord that bought them: and many have followed their pernicious ways, by reason of whom the way of Truth is evil spoken of : (2 Peter ii. 1, 2.) p. M. We have just ascended the ancient Acro- polis, a hill above the city, which commands a most extensive prospect. Below is the town, surrounded by its wall, and embosomed in trees. We see this interesting place to peculiar advan- tage. For several days, we have been contending with rain, cold, and adverse weather : but to-day, on arriving at Philadelphia, lo ! the winter is past, the rain is over and gone, the flowers appear on o 290 VISIT TO THE the earthy the time of the singing of the birds is come, a7id the voice of the turtle is heard in their land: (Cant. ii. 11, 12.) The voice of the turtle charmed me greatly, during our stay here. This favourite bird is so tame, that it flies about the streets, and comes up close to our door in the khan. The remains of antiquity at Philadelphia are not numerous. I have noticed a few beautiful sarco- phagi, now devoted to the purpose of troughs : but the ruined wall was probably erected by those who so manfully defended the city, previously to its final fall. Our visit to Philadelphia was rendered the more interesting, by the circumstance of our being the Bishop's visitors. He pressed us so strongly to make his house our home, that we thought it right to comply with his wishes. This circumstance gave me an opportunity of having much conversation with Panaretos. Many of his remarks afforded us satis- faction. The Bible he declared to be the only foundation of all religious belief: and I was aston- ished to hear him say, that he knew of no other Confession of Christian Faith than the Creeds of the Apostles, of Nice, and of St. Athanasius. With the design of referring to Christ, as the only name given among men by which ice can be saved, I in- troduced a remark on the atoning efficacy which too many appear to attach to Fasting. ** It is/' he APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES, 291 replied, *' the universal idea.' After other obser- vations, distingTiished for candour, and expressive of the miserable follies into which our nature has plunged us, he used these decisive words : — '* Abuses have entered into the Church, which former a^es might endure ; but the present must put them down." Other topics of conversation were, Justifi- cation by Faith, Indulgences, the Prophecies con- cerning Popery, and the Seventh General Council. Conversing on the last-mentioned subject, I was surprised to find that he did not know that Protes- tants worshipped God without the use of pictures. The Christian Population he considerrd to be on the increase at Philadelphia : in the last year there had been ten deaths and twenty marriages. The Turks, he said, were decreasinsr: a large number had marched for Greece, and none had ever returned. In the evening, we attended the Metropolitan Church ; but to give a true account of the sad de- gradation of Christian Worship exhibited on this occasion would be equaUy difficult and painful. We were highly pleased with the engaging manner of Panaretos. His house, also, which is termed, as usual by the Greeks, the Metropolis, exhibited a decorum suited to a Christian Bishop ; nor did I witness that fawning, and perpetual kissin? of the hand, which I have deplored in some other Epis- copal Residences. From the verandah, we had a view over the whole town by day ; and at night, we 2 292 VISIT TO THE observed the illuminated minarets spreading" their light over the city, as is customary during the Fast of Ramazan. April 24, 1826 — This morning I visited a Public School of the Greeks. There were present thirty or forty children. Greek, Romaic, and Turkish were the objects of attention. The Master complained^ that the neglect of the parents was a great obstacle to improvement : as soon as a child could write sufficiently for the purposes of commerce, he was removed,^ and employed in business. I found in this School a Manuscript of the Gos- pels, on vellum ; but it is by no means ancient or valuable. It is however worthy of notice, that a Manuscript was found, some time since, at Caesarea,. written in uncial letters ; which is held in such veneration in that neighbourhood, that the Turks always send for it, when they put a Greek upon his oath. It will be well for future Travellers to ex- amine it. The pen of a celebrated Infidel bears witness to a circumstance which is worthy of notice in regard to Philadelphia. " Philadelphia,^ alone, has been saved by prophecy or courage. At a distance from the sea, forgotten by the Emperors, encompassed on all sides by the Turks, her valiant citizens defended her religion and freedom above fourscore years ; and, at length, capitulated with the proudest of the Ottomans. Among the Greek Colonies and Churches APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 293 of Asia, Philadelphia is still erect ; a column in a scene of ruins." (Gibbon's Decline and Fall, vol. xi. chap. 64.) It may be added — the circumstance that Philadelphia is now called Allah-Shehr, •* the City of God," when viewed in connexion with the pro- mises made to that Church, and especially with that of writing the name of the City of God upon its faithful Members, is, to say the least, a singular coincidence.^ SARDIS. April 25, 1826— We left Philadelphia at half- after-ten ; and, in seven hours, arrived at a Coffee- house, an hour's distance from Sardis. We have the famous Acropolis of that city in full view. To the left of our route we observed numerous hills, thrown into such singular forms, as to leave no doubt that earthquakes have often here performed their work of destruction. Our day's journey was along the route of the Younger Cyrus, when he commenced his expedition against his brother. We are informed that there are as many as sixty Greek Houses, and one Church, within a circuit of moderate extent. April 26 — This morning I have visited Sardis — once the splendid capital of Lydia, the famous resi- » others caU it Ellah-Shehr, " Beautifvd City." 294 VISIT TO THE dence of Croesus, the resort of Persian Monarchs, and one of the most ancient and magnificent cities of the world. Now> how fallen ! The ruins are, with one exception, more entirely gone to decay than those of most of the ancient cities which we have yisited. No Christians reside on the spot : two Greeks only work in a mill here, and a few wretched Turkish huts are scattered among the ruins. We saw the Churches of St. John and the Virgin, the Theatre, and the building styled the Palace of Croesus ; but the most striking object at Sardis is the Temple of Cybele. I was filled with wonder and awe at beholding the two stupendous columns of this edifice, which are still remaining : they are silent but impressive witnesses of the power and splendour of Antiquity. I read, amidst the ruins, the Epistle (Rev. iii. 1 — 6) addressed to the Church once fixed here. What an impressive warning to Christian Churches 1 A name to live while dead! — Is not the state of Religion in Britain precisely such as to threaten punishment like that which has be- fallen Sardis I A certain portion of religion is at present popular : the world approximates a certain distance towards Religion ; and many persons who would pass for religious seem disposed to advance at least half-way towards the world. Does not this neglect of watchfulness end in many defiling their (jarments f And if this negligence does not give place to remembrance, and repentance, and to a APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 295 strengthening of the things which remain and are ready to die, the consequences will be equally fatal ! — May God preserve us from the fate of Sardis I FROM SARDIS TO THYATIRA. From Sardis we took the direction of Thyatira ; and first had to cross the celebrated plain, on which Cyrus overthrew the Empire of Lydia. Upon ar- riving at the banks of the Hermus, we found that the ferry-boat had been destroyed ; and that it would be necessary, in consequence, to ford the river. This appeared to be rather a dangerous enterprise, as the river is both wide and deep. Happily, a fine Turkish Youth undertook to be our guide ; and, riding gallantly at our head, he conducted us to the other side in safety : the water reached to the breasts of the horses. We now approached the im- mense multitude of lofty Barrows, or Tumuli, which have so justly attracted the admiration of Travellers. They cover a very large extent of ground ; and are, in general, of a very regular formation. We were particularly struck with that which is considered the Tumulus of Halyattes ; and which is, probably, the largest artificial hill in the world. But the tout ensemble, more than all, engaged my attention. What a most extraordinary burying-ground ! Here, you are ready to exclaim with the Prophet — all the 296 VISIT TO THE kings of the nations, even all of theiUy lie in glory ^ every one in his own house ! (Isaiah xiv. 18). Beyond the Tumuli, we passed the Gygaean Lake, to the right. After a ride of six hours-and-a-half we arrived at Marmara. This is a fine large vil- lage, with a northern aspect ; and defended on the south by a rocky and precipitate hill. Two Mosques, with domes and minarets are very conspicuous. I heard only of five or six Greek Houses, and one Church. Thyatira : ^4pril 27, 1826 — I have now the fa- vour to write in the Sixth of the Seven Churches, It is about four hours distant from Marmara. On the way, we observed many columns and antiquities, notifying an ancient town. Mr. Arundell disco- vered an Inscription, containing the words, *' from THYATIRA." Ak-hissar, the Modern Thyatira, is situated on a plain, and is embosomed in cypresses and poplars. The buildings are in general mean ; but the khan in which we are at present residing is, by far, the best which I have yet seen. The Greeks are said to occupy 300 houses, and the Armenians 30. Each of them have a Church. Here we witnessed a fine Turkish spectacle. The new Mutselim of Aidin arrived from Constantinople, with a retinue of 200 horse. They were all ex- tremely well dressed and mounted : their turbans were white as snow, and the renowned scymitar of Turkey hung gracefully behind them. I was APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 297 much struck with the lordly air which they dis- played. ** It is well," I thought, ** for Europe, that such cavaliers have no discipline." We paid a visit to the Church of the Greeks ; it is a wretched structure. Upon opening the door, we had to descend four or five steps into the body of the building. We found a Priest, a native of Milo, who was engaged in hearing the confessions of the people. On returning to the khan, I con- versed for a considerable time, with four or five Greeks, on the study of the Scriptures — the pre- dicted apostacy from true Christianity, and the means which were furnished for detecting it — the inutility of alms for the salvation of man — the ne- cessity of forsaking sin, &c. Nicolas afterwards sat up with the same party till midnight, reasoning with them on important subjects. I presented the most interesting of these young men with the New Testament ; and cannot but indulge the hope that a useful impression has been made on his mind. The language addressed to Thyatira (Rev. ii. 18 — 29) is rather different from that of the other Epistles. The commendations (v. 19) are scarcely surpassed even in the Epistle to Philadelphia, while the conduct of some (v. 20, 21) was impious and profligate. The Church thus exhibited a contrast of the most exalted piety with the very depths of Satan. In too many parts of Christendom we o 5 298 VISIT TO THE observe a similar state of things, even at this day : how important, then, the admonition. That which ye have already, hold fast till I come I And this language is not only designed for those who have recently been brought to the knowledge of Christianity : it is a caution very needful for those who have long been acquainted with its in- finite value. The most ostensible danger to Chris- tians is rather after a perseverance of some years, than in the commencement of their Christian career. When religion appears to have become habitual, we are in much greater danger of being thrown off our guard, than when we have just been awa- kened to observe its great importance and our own weakness. Let the follower of Christ be therefore especially careful, lest he lose his crown, after he has won many victories. Let the joy which he feels, under the conviction that he is approaching nearer to the end of all his wishes, be ever tem- pered with the recollection, that he is still possessed of a heart which is deceitful above all things and desperately wicked, and that he is still encompassed by a tuorld which lietk in wickedness. When the disposition of fearijig always is united to the cha- racter of watchfulness, courage, and simple de- pendence on the Divine aid, then will be realized obedience to the caution. Hold fast that which ye have. The address to the unfaithful part of the Church APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 299 at Thyatira is at once alarming and inviting. It contains one of those many denunciations of Divine anger, which place it beyond all doubt that God will hy no means clear the guilty. Nothing will save them from the indignation of Him, who has revealed himself as a consuming fire to the wicked. The Sacred Writer of the Acts of the Apostles informs us that Lydia was a seller of purple, in the city of Thyatira : and the discovery of an Inscrip- tion here, which makes mention of '* the dyers," has been considered important, in connexion with this passage. I know not if other Travellers have remarked, that, even at the present time, Thyatira is famous for dyeing. In answer to inquiries on this subject, I was informed that the cloths which are dyed scarlet here are considered superior to any others furnished by Asia Minor ; and that large quantities are sent weekly to Smyrna, for the pur- poses of commerce. FROM THYATIRA TO SMYRNA. April 28, 1826— We left Ak-hissar at half-after- six in the morning ; and in four hours and-a-half reached a Coffee-house, which is considered half way to Magnesia. The country was uninteresting, and for the most part uncultivated. We observed a flock of twenty-five vultures, close by the road. At half-after- twelve we proceeded on our journey, 300 VISIT TO THE and arrived, in about five hours, at Magnesia-by- Sipylus. The greater part of the way we were accompanied by a body of Turks, who had been escorting the Pasha of Magnesia on his way to Constantinople. These young men were full of wild freaks, lashing and galloping their horses, and indulging in diversion as much as if heated by wine. A young Moor had nearly paid very dear for his sport: he had a most tremendous fall, his horse appearing to roll completely over him. To our astonishment and joy, he declared himself unhurt. The view of Magnesia is splendid. Twenty white minarets tower above the houses ; and Mount Si- pylus, a mountain huge and rocky, impends above. The town itself is cleanly; and, in general, superior in character to the other Turkish towns which I have yet visited. We heard of 800 Greek Houses and one Church, and of two Armenian Churches : the Jews also have a Synagogue. The Scriptures have been sent hither from Smyrna, by Mr. Barker ; and very readily purchased. April 29, 1826 — This morning we ascended part of the steep hill on which the Acropolis is seated. On producing a compass, we found the needle powerfully affected by the iron-stone of which the hill is composed. The prospect from this eminence is extremely beautiful. The Hermus is seen di- viding the plain to a great distance : and there, we APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 301 recollected, was fought the great battle in which Scipio Asiaticus routed the forces of Antiochus. From Magnesia to Smyrna is a ride of eight hours. The way leads over Mount Sipylus, and is of the most rugged and toilsome description. After travelling for thirty-one days, it was no small plea- sure to me to catch sight once more of the Gulf of Smyrna ; and to be approaching a place where I might enjoy a season of repose, and return once more to my regular duties. The last steps of our journey were over the delicious Plain of Smyrna. For fertility and beauty it is, probably, unrivalled in Asia. How can I conclude, without expressing my gra- titude to the Almighty, for His watchful care, extended towards us during our whole tour ! The hope of His love and favour is the Christian's solace and happiness, as long as he lives upon the earth. And now, having had this new evidence of them, may I be excited to more fervent devotion and to more active obedience ! SECOND VISIT TO THYATIRA. June 15 f 1826 — Mr. King and I were mounted at four o'clock this morning; and arrived at Ak- hissar, on our way to Constantinople, about one. I regret that circumstances prevent my visiting Pergamos at present; but I have the pleasure of 302 VISIT TO THE seeing Thyatira a second time. We forded the Hermus considerably above the bridge. At this place, and at this season, the water is scarcely above the knees of the horses. A second time I crossed the field of battle which was fatal to Antiochus. A very different armv is at present ravaging the whole territory. I allude to the Locusts: and I am perfectly astonished at their multitudes. They are, indeed, as a strong people set in battle array: they run like mighty men ; they climb the walls like men of icar. I actually saw them run to and fro in the City of Thyatira: they i-an upon the wall: they climbed up upon the houses: they entered in at the uindows like a thief: (Joel ii. 5, 7, 9.) This is, however, by no means one of the most formidable armies of locusts which are known in these countries. Near Thyatira we still find very beautiful vegeta- tion : the neighbourhood has a most fertile ap- pearance. A white species of rose is extremely abundant, and scents the air with a most delightful odour. At Thyatira we had very agreeable intercourse with the Bishop's Procurator, and with five Priests. Christ Crucified was the subject of our conversa- tion : and Mr. King addressed the Children of the School, fortv-five in number. We also distributed many Tracts, and gave away two New Testaments ; and regretted much that we had not with us a larger APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 303 supply of books, as a great desire for them was displayed. No one surely will doubt the import- ance of distributing useful books, after hearing the following fact, of which we were informed by a Greek of this place. Two Missionaries, he said, (who were doubtless the Rev. Messrs. Fisk and Parsons) had visited Thyatira, five or six years ago, and distributed books. They had presented him with one ; which he had lent to more than two hundred persons ! l^"-!'-" M,U,hrJ l.y /lli.s,-,-/,y I- KBurnM. .17l\r/^./^ Sintt. .7m,^ J.-i'^JKii mtli tlie "", nor TBS OF THE Sf Sta trite J fifes 21 Lim^itndc East from I JOURNALS OF THE REV. JOHN HARTLEY. TOUR IN THE MOREA, IN THE YEAR 1828. iEGINA, The Island of ^Egina was the seat of the Greek Government, during the time that I was there. This circumstance, and the contingencies of the war, had conducted thither a considerable number of inhabitants. The Native ^ginetans do not ex- ceed 5000 ; but the influx of strangers had swelled the population to 20,000 : of these, 2000 were Ipsariots.^ Feb. 19, 1828 — Dr. Korck and I paid a visit to the Temple of Jupiter. It is on the other side ' There are also 6000 or 7000 Ispariots in Tino, Mycono, and Syra. 306 TOUR IN of the island, at the distance of two hours-and-a- half. We had an opportunity of viewing-, on this excursion, both the works of God and the works of man. The former are always interesting" and instructive to serious and contemplative persons. Who can survey the mountains, the plains, the trees, the plants, the ocean, and the sky, without having his mind in some degree solemnized ? To a Christian, they have a powerful and impressive voice : they not only call forth his admiration and delight, but they prompt him to serve with diligence the Great Bq^ng who made them all. These were some of my feelings, as I was passing over the hills and dales of ^gina. The island has nothing in its scenery which is very striking. If we except the vicinity of the town, which is a gentle slope or even plain to a considerable distance, it consists of hills of moderate dimensions, with valleys of but small extent. We found more cultivation than we had expected ; and we were convinced that the island is capable of sus- taining multitudes, such as peopled it in ancient times.^ A principal feature in the landscape is, at present, the almond- trees. They are very nume- rous ; and being covered with a vast profusion of white and pink blossoms, they adorn the prospect in a beautiful manner. We had the pleasure, en- ^ Athenaeus (vi. 20) quotes Aristotle for the assertion, that in ^gina there were 470,000 Slaves. THE MORBA. 307 joyed by many Travellers who had gone before us, of visiting the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius. Dr. Korck was rather disappointed, probably from having too high expectations. The effect on my own mind, of nearly thirty columns standing in silence and solitude on so romantic a spot, and conveying the mind backward through the recollections of 2000 years, was peculiarly im- pressive. I know not if I can well explain the association ; but I own, that antiquities of this na- ture often edify me — I mean by the word ** edify," stimulate me to more earnest desires of God's favour, and impel me to prayer for faithfulness and zeal. Certain I am, that, after my return, I en- gaged in prayer to God with much more earnestness and sincerity than for some time past. The view from the Temple is such as would fill with rapture many a Youth in England. The Acropolis of Athens, the Piraseus, Mounts Hymettus, Pentelicus and Parnes, and Salamis — these, and many other classical objects, are all conspicuous. I have lived long enough in the East, and long enough in the world, to look upon them with placid feelings. March 5, 1828 — I have met with a Scriptural illustration which interests me. Having had my attention directed last night to the words, John x. 3 — The sheep hear His voice, and He calleth His own sheep hy name, &c., I asked my man if it was usual in Greece to give names to the sheep. He 308 TOUR IN informed me that it was, and that the sheep obeyed the shepherd when he called them by their names. This morning I had an opportunity of verifying the truth of this remark. Passing by a flock of sheep, I asked the shepherd the same question which I had put to my servant, and he gave me the same answer. I then bade him to call one of his sheep. He did so, and it instantly left its pasturage and its companions, and ran up to the hand of the shepherd, with signs of pleasure, and with a prompt obedience which I had never before observed in any other animal. It is also true of the sheep in this country, that a stranger will they not follow ^ hut will flee from him ; for they know not the voice of strangers. The shepherd told me, that many of his sheep are still wild ; that they had not yet learned their names ; but that, by teaching, they would all learn them. The others, which knew their names, he called TAME. How natural an applica- tion to the state of the human race does this description of the sheep admit of! The Good Shepherd laid down His life for His sheep : but many of them are still wild : they know not His voice. Others have learned to obey His call, and to follow Him ; and we rejoice to think, that even to those not yet in His fold the words are appli- cable — Them also I must bring ; and they shall hear my voice : and there shall he one fold, and one shepherd. THE MOREA. 309 It may be not unworthy of remark, that I have seen in ^gina, and other parts of ^Greece, that kind of oxgoad described by Maundrell, as illustra- tive of the instrument with which Shamgar killed 600 men (Judges iii. 31). It is often eight or nine feet in length ; and is furnished at one end with the goad, and at the other with a large weapon-like piece of iron, which is used for cleaning the plough- share. It was, no doubt, this latter part of the instrument which Sham gar used as a battle-axe, and thus killed so many of his enemies. POROS. March 14, 1828 — It was almost eight hours be- fore we landed at Poros, from ^Egina. On the passage, the volcanic Peninsula of Methana is an interesting object ; and from Poros the views are beautiful. The harbour is uncommonly excellent, having two entrances, and vessels of the largest dimensions find secure anchorage. It is bordered by fertile plains, particularly in the direction of Da- mala (the Ancient Troezen), which are surrounded by picturesque hills. March 15 — I paid visits to some of the principal inhabitants. It can scarcely be expected that much religious knowledge will be imparted by a single visit ; but a friendly spirit is conciliated, and some general impressions are produced, which may be 310 TOUR IN of considerable service to Missionary operations. I am glad to observe a very amicable disposition, wherever I go ; and I am not without hopes that English Ministers may, in time, secure to such a deafree the confidence of the Greeks, that thev will consult us freely on religious subjects. After these visits, my friend Logothetes conducted me across the narrow isthmus, which is little more than a bank of sand, into the Island of Calauria. We first directed our course to the Monastery, a building most delightfully situated. We met with a very friendly reception from the Caloyers, of whom more than ten are stated residents : many of them are exiles from Mount Athos ; others are from the Monastery of St. Luke, in Livadia. One old man professed to be 100 years old.^ After much con- versation of a useful tendency, the kind Prior sent us forward, on our route to the Temple of Neptune, on mules. It is long since I have been delighted with such scenery as now fell under my eye ; we mounted hills clothed with wood, and discovered, on every side, objects the most interesting and beautiful. The weather was brilliant, almost beyond concep- tion ; the sun shining with the utmost splendour, ^ Such instances of longevity are not uncommon in Greece. I have been informed, that in the Island of Angistri, opposite to ^gina, there is a man residing who is 136 years old, and who has a son in the same island aged 102. He remembers the Venetians in the Morea. THE MOREA. 311 and not having, as yet, sufficient power to incom- mode us with the heat of his rays. Beneath our feet. Flora was displaying* a rich assemblage of blossoms. T discerned species of Cistus, Phyteuma, Silene, Hyacinthus, Anemone, and, above all, large quantities of that most elegant of flowers, Anagallis coerulea. The immense quantities of lemon-trees also attracted my attention : they quite fill up a large glen behind the Monastery, and colour it with their yellow fruit. Such was the effect of the scenery on my companion, that he exclaimed, ** To- day we have entered into Paradise!" But the prospect from the site of the Temple exceeded all : ^gina, with its town ; Attica, with its classical mountains, and with the Acropolis distinctly visible; Cithaeron too, and even the snowy summits beyond it; the Promontory of Methana — a " sea of glass," while " Soft o'er its surface the cloud-shadows sail : " these, and innumerable other objects, render the spot most interesting. Add to this, it was here that the Prince of Orators met his death : to this Temple he took refuge, when he had nought else to succour him : and here he took the poison, when visited by the agent of Antipater. What shall we say of Demosthenes 1 His unrivalled oratorical talents none will ever deny. But whoever reads Mitford's History of Greece will see the charm dissolved. 312 TOUR IN which before surrounded his moral character. The Scholar will feel pained at finding one of his idols divested of its false brilliancy ; and will exclaim, with a sigh, *' The Historian speaks too true !" and the Christian will lament to find one good man less in the world : — ^but truth is great, and must prevail. Ah ! on that solemn day, when all characters shall be presented in their true colours, what awful dis- coveries will be made ! How many, once covered with this world's applause, will be consigned to universal and un-ending execration ! — and how many, formerly despised and rejected of men, will become partakers of that glory which the Eternal Son had with the Father before the world was ! — Eternal glory, then, and not transient, be OUR object ! ^ We descended from the site of the Temple, to a retreat on the other side of the island ; where we found Gregorius, an old Pro-hegoumenos. This man belongs to the very strictest sect of his re- ligion : and, though I am become particularly averse to controversy with strangers, he absolutely forced me into a discussion on Baptism and other topics. I am glad that I was enabled to maintain the Truth in a very friendly manner, and to hold to the grand point, ' The Bible, and nothing but • An English Gentleman asked Lord B>Ton, at Missolonghi, "What do you think of Mitford ? " The words above mentioned, •' The Historian speaks too true I " were here his answer. THE MOREA. 313 the Bible,' without needlessly wounding" his pre- judices. March 16, 1828 — Called with Logothetes on the Bishop. His Diocese comprehends Hydra, Poros, and ^gina. He observed, that in these times the religion of many persons had become mechanical, consisting merely in the performance of outward Services, whilst there was no concern to worship God in spirit and truth. I met with a sad instance of flattery : a native of Constantinople, whom I had seen in the morning at the Bishop's, meeting me in the street, actually said, amongst other words of an import almost similar, 2e Xarpei^cy, " I adore thee!" This is worse than a letter I once received from a Priest, who is now a Bishop, in which he commenced, *' Most divine Father." What a shameful and de- based creature is man ! ^ March 17 — I am informed that Poros contains 1300 houses, and 10,000 inhabitants ; but this is probably an exaggeration. It will always be a place of some importance, on account of its excellent har- bour. The inhabitants are almost all employed in maritime pursuits. Albanian is the language of domestic life, but Modern Greek is universally understood. This morning I sent my man to sell Scriptures, but he sold only four large Testaments. Dr. Huss, ^ Such adulation is generally the prelude to a request for money. P 314 TOUR IN an American Physician, had been so kind as to take charge of some Scriptures sent hither by Mr. Brewer: but few have been sold, probably because they have not been exposed in the street. I find, almost invariably, that when this is not the case, few are disposed of. Accompanied Logothetes across the water into the Morea. I had my attention soon directed to the practice of grafting the olive-trees, to which St. Paul alludes (Romans xi. 17, 20, 23, 24). My friend shewed me a few wild-olives ; but by far the greater number are such as have been grafted. He informs me, that it is the usual practice in Greece to graft, from a good tree, upon the wild olive, I also noticed the manner in which the vine is cut, or purged (John xv. 2). Only two or three of the principal sprouts are permitted to grow up from the root ; the rest are cut off* : and this practice is often called, by the Greeks, cleaning. After walking for some time, we arrived at a very interesting object. A forest of lemon-trees extends up the hills, and aff'ords a most beautiful appearance, loaded with its golden fruit. Logothetes computes that there are more than 10,000 lemon-trees. In all directions, men were employed in gathering the lemons ; but the principal season is December and January. In time of peace, cargoes of this fruit are sent to Constantinople and other places. THE MOREA. 315 HYDRA. March 19, 1828 — I was received at Hydra, with much hospitality, by Basil Badures. According to a calculation lately made, there are 18,000 Hydriots resident in the island : besides these, are 2000 or 3000 strangers. The condition of the Youth of Hydra is most un- happy : there are no Tutors, no Libraries, no means of passing their time usefully : they seem to grow up in complete inaction. I know not how life can be endured in such a manner. March 23 — Having obtained permission from the Primates to preach, I mounted the pulpit in the principal Church, after the close of the Liturgy. I spoke for about an hour, and afterwards conversed with the Hegoumenos and others of the Clergy. I informed them of the zeal of my countrymen for the extension of Christianity ; of the exertions of the Bible Society ; of the conversion of the South-Sea Islands : and of similar subjects. I have been greatly shocked with various recitals given me relative to the state of anarchy in which Hydra has long been placed. A man died here some time since who confessed, on his death-bed, that he had murdered seventeen men and one wo- man. Another Hydriot is still living with impunity, who has killed the father of the Conduriottis, and P 2 316 TOUR IN five or six other Greeks : one of these was his brother-in-law. At the breaking out of the Revolu- tion, he assassinated all the Jews who were in the island, eleven in number ; and he has murdered eleven or twelve Turks in cold blood. March 24, 1828 — The persons to whom Mr, Brewer and I had entrusted the Scriptures for sale have not been very active. One of them has sold five copies of the large, and three of the small edition : the other, eleven of the large, and two of the small. I myself have been more successful ; having sold, during the few days I have spent here, twenty-three copies of the large, and thirty-six of the small edition. I also sold four copies of Mr. Jowett's Commentary on the Acts of the Apostles, and a considerable number of Tracts. To some poor persons I gave a few Testaments, and other books, gratis. I departed from Hydra, thankful for all the favours which I have received in that island. As the weather was exceedingly calm, we did not arrive at Kastri (the Ancient Hermione) till after sun-set. KASTRI. March 25 — They inform me that there are in Kastri 200 houses. I have been conversing with the four Priests who live here, and with other inhabitants. To each of the Priests I presented an THE MOREA. 317 Ancient Greek Testament, and seven copies of the large Testament were purchased : many more would have been sold, if I had had them. We walked together over the site of the Ancient Hermione : little or nothing remains of all its temples and buildings. Tragopogon porrifolius, Reseda lutea, and many other ornaments of the vegetable king- dom, now flower and flourish where men once lived. The ancient tuwn was situated on a peninsula, between two excellent harbours. Kastri is built on a rising ground behind it. Pevers prevail here in August and September. The inhabitants are, for the most part, poor ; and support themselves either by working as day-labourers, or by a few boats which sail to the neighbouring ports. I found a Schoolmaster teaching Ancient Greek to twenty Scholars ; but he was preparing to depart. March 26, 1828 — This morning I rose very early, in order to be ready for Church. The Sermon, however, did not commence till sun-rise. The bell sounded, and I found a considerable Congregation assembled in the Church, called the Metropolis. After an immense number of Kyrie Eleesons, a Priest called out ** Begin;" and I accordingly commenced, with a short prayer. I afterward preached from the words, Be ye reconciled to God. The people, who are almost all of the lower orders, seemed lost in astonishment ; being evidently quite perplexed at hearing a Frank preaching about 318 TOUR IN Christ, whilst they did not observe hiin kissing pictures, crossing himself, or performing any other of those actions which they always account the most essential marks of Christianity. I confide in God alone for a happy result of my endeavours. Almost immediately after the Sermon, I went to a Monastery, which is at the distance of half-an- hour : an Inscription over the gateway denotes that it is dedicated to our Saviour and the wonder- working Anargyri. Here I found a considerable number of Manuscripts, and spent much time in examining them. Among the rest, there are two Lectionaries of the Acts of the Apostles and the Epistles. They are evidently of no great antiquity, as they are on glazed paper, with cursive letters and accents. It is not, however, unworthy of notice, that both of them omit the disputed passage, 1 John V. 7. March 27, 1828 — Conversing with the Hegou- menos and another Caloyer, the latter made a remark, which I have frequently heard repeated in Greece ; viz. that the English believe in the trans- migration of souls. Whence this idea had its origin, it would be difficult to determine. Another man lately observed, that he had always understood there were exceedingly few Christians in England. THE MOREA. 319 KRANIDI. The distance from Kastri to this place is an hour- and-a-half. They assure me that there are here 700 houses. Soon after my arrival, I called on Joseph, the Bishop of Andrussa, who had written to me a very friendly letter whilst I was in ^gina. He is one of the most virtuous and well-informed Prelates of the Morea. We had much interesting conversation ; and he described to me his sufferings whilst detained a prisoner, with the other Bishops, in Tripolitza. Having observed that it was the spoils of Tripolitza which gave rise to the dissen- sions and other evils which proved so injurious to the Greek cause, he added, that this circumstance gave him to understand the reason why God had commanded an utter destruction of the spoils taken at Jericho. Indeed, the evils which have been occasioned, during the Greek Revolution, by the captive women and the plunder, seem calculated to throw some light, not only on the prohibition of spoil, but also on the command of utter extermina- tion laid upon the Israelites. The Turkish women have been a snare even to several of the Greek Bishops ; and they have thereby occasioned not only incalculable injury to these Ecclesiastics them- selves, but they have also brought infinite scandal on their profession. I walked, with a nephew of 320 TOUR IN the Bishop, to a Monastery, about a mile distant, at the port. This young man informed me, that during the three years which the Bishop has resided here, no less than twenty-eight murders have been perpetrated at Kranidi. In the Monastery, I looked over a volume of Modern-Greek Sermons : accord- ing to the table of Contents, one of the Discourses shews that * the Holy Virgin suffered more than all the Martyrs, and even more than Christ Himself! ' Kranidi has the reputation of being an extremely healthy place. It suffers, however, from the scar- city of water : no springs are to be met with : a few wells, some of which become frequently dry in summer, are the only resource of the inhabitants. In Hydra and Kranidi, where there are no fountains of water, but where that precious article must be obtained from precarious cisterns or wells, we understand the force of Jeremiah ii. 13 : My people have forsaken vie, the fountain of living ivaters ; and hewed them out cisterns, broken cisterns, that hold no water. The vicinity of Kranidi is cultivated to a considerable extent, being chiefly laid out in vineyards. Many of the inhabitants are also em- ployed in maritime pursuits, being celebrated for their seamanship. The common language here, as well as at Hydra and Kastri, is Albanian ; and some of the women understand nothing else : the men all understand Modern Greek. March 28, 1828 — This morning, though I have THE MOREA. 321 not mounted a pulpit, I have had an excellent opportunity of preaching the Truth. Having called on the Bishop, he drew me into conversation on Saint Worship, and other practices which need reformation in the Eastern Church. It led to a lengthened discussion, in which I found occasion to lay before the Bishop, and all present, many im- portant truths : I am happy to say, that a very favourable impression appeared to be produced. The CEkonomos and others afterward paid me a visit. By one of them, I sent a copy of Mr. Jowett's Commentary on the Acts of the Apostles to a Hermit residing on the Island of Belle Poule : he is represented as being a very learned man, who reads every book which he can possibly obtain. I regret, exceedingly, that I have not with me any more of the Modern- Greek Testaments : I might have sold a considerable number at Kastri and Kranidi. I distributed a few of the Hellenic, which I had remaining. I spent nearly three hours with the Bishop, and find much reason to rejoice in the friendly disposition which he manifests. He inti- mated his intention of corresponding with me. I was particularly delighted to find that the Commen- tary on the Acts, which I had sent him from ^gina, had afforded him the greatest satisfaction. He could scarcely find words strong enough to express his admiration of it : he preferred it much to their own Commentaries. p 5 322 TOUR IN NAPOLI DI ROMANIA. March 29, 1828 — For the second time, I find myself in this celebrated fortress. We sailed from the Port of Kranidi at eight o'clock, and in six hours arrived here. March 30 — I have distributed several copies of Lord Lyttleton on St. Paul, and of Bishop Porteus's Evidences — books which I find of great value in the present crisis- March 31 — Since I was in Napoli, our Agent has sold all the Scriptures with which he was entrusted ; viz. 30 small Testaments, 17 large, and one Helle- nic ; and he has paid me, deducting the per-centage, 124 piastres, 30 paras. I hope soon to send him a much larger supply. Visited with much pleasure the Lancasterian School : it has 170 scholars, and is in excellent order : many Boys repeated, at length, passages of Scripture History. The Malta Publi- cations have been much used in this school. Called on N. Skuphas, and conversed with his sisters. They shewed me the " Pilgrim's Progress," and " Law on Education," which their father had sent them from SmjTua. In the latter work he had written, '* Read it once^ and twice, and often." April 1, 1828 — I presented a supply of books, for the School of Demitzani, to Niketas Kallas, one of THE MOREA. 323 the Managing Committee ; and others for the Lancasterian School in Napoli. I extract from a former Journal the following Narrative : Oct. 17, 1827 — I have been highly interested by a visit, which we have just paid to Griva, Com- mandant of the Palamidi. This Chief, after having held possession of that important fortress for more than a year, found himself unwilling to give it up ; and, impelled by his vindictive feelings, actually waged war on his countrymen. About two months ago, he commenced firing on the lower castle and on the town, and even proceeded to throv/ bombs. No less than one hundred and fifty persons became the victims of this outrage. On reaching the summit of the tremendous rock on which the fortress is built, I was surprised to find Griva himself, waiting to receive us. He is a fine-looking young man ; and, apparelled as he was in a magnificent Albanian dress, he presented such a noble and warlike figure as I had never before seen. After receiving us with a friendly Greek welcome, he introduced us to his quarters ; where his wife, a young lady of elegant appearance, arrayed in a handsome Turkish costume, exhibited herself for a few moments, and then suddenly disappeared ; — this Mussulman retirement of females still existing among some of the Greek Clans. With Griva v/e •324 TOUR IN had much conversation. I told him, as I do many others, the history of the Bible Society ; and left Avith him, for the use of the Garrison, two copies of the New Testament. Judge of our surprise at his answer : — *' They are a good thing for those who can read : but t do not know how to read." I have been sometimes shocked, particularly in Smyrna, at meeting with Greek Ladies, of elegant manners and appearance, who have made a similar confession : but T was thunder-struck, to find a man, so prince-like in demeanour, and Commandant of the famous fortress of Palamidi, making such a discovery. He expressed, however, his regret — " His father had never provided such an advantage for him." Our conversation turned chiefly on the politics of the day : he threw out hints, which he evidently meant as a justification of his recent conduct: *' Men," he said, *' who possess no merit, who have never fought for their country, are pre- ferred to offices of importance ; while those who have distinguished themselves to the utmost are passed by with disregard." He also intimated, that he waited the coming of Count Capo d'Istria, in order to give up the fortress to him. ' After accompanying us, with one of his brothers, to the various works of the fortification, he intro- duced us to another brother, who was laid up with sickness. They described to us the warlike habits of the family. They told us that they never lived THE MORE A. 325 on the three articles of bread, meat, and wine together : if they had bread, they had no meat : if they had meat, they had no bread. For months in succession, they never changed their dress : they were accustomed to heat, cold, rains, and snows — to wade rivers up to the neck — and to encounter many other appalling hardships. If they were two months without an expedition, they grew sick. They had never paid tribute to the Grand Signor : when they could not find Turks to fight, they attacked their own countrymen ! With all the crimes of Griva, a Christian judg- ment will find room for compassion. It is true, he has turned his cannon upon his countrymen, and the voice of his brother s blood cries for vengeance against him : but no one ever taught him to read in the Gospel — Do unto all men as you would they should do unto you. His early education informed him, that there is nothing more noble than to despoil his fellow-creatures — to bathe his sword in the blood of his enemies — to disregard all interests except those of his family — to live for the present moment, nor ever to think of eternity. Can we compare the guilt of such a man with the crimes of one bred up in all the light and knowledge of civilized and Christian Europe ? I must own, that I felt so much interest in his character, and so much appre- hension of his future fate, impelled too by the very kind attention which he had shown us, that, after I 326 TOUR IN had returned to my lodg-ings, the thought occurred to me of going up once more to the Palamidi, and of advising him, as a friend, to yield to the Govern- ment, and not to bring ruin upon himself by per- sisting in opposition. The recollection, that inter- ference in politics might easily involve consequences utterly destructive of my Missionary character and usefulness, led me to abandon the idea. But how painful is the thought, that such a Chieftain should be lost to his country and to himself! I earnestly implore God, that, if his offences have exceeded the measure of human forgiveness, he may yet find mercy with Him who said to a dying malefactor, To-day thou shalt he icith me in paradise ! ARGOS. ^pril 2, 1828 — I reached this place, from Napoli, in about three hours. Napoli is an unhealthy spot ; and though it is much improved by the new police- regulations, still it is a dangerous place. Dr. Bailly, a French Physician, is said to advise — '■' In Napoli, eat no meat, drink no wine ; but as soon as you arrive at Argos, eat and drink whatever you please." I am glad to observe a large extent of corn land near Argos ; but I am informed that much less than usual is this year cultivated. Too often the proverb has been literally verified, in regard to THE MOREA. 327 Greece — One soweth, and another reapeth : (John iv. 37.) Approaching; Argos, we found the Panitza flow- ing with water, but the Xerias (Inachus) dry. Last winter, two boys were drowned in the Inachus, attempting to cross it when the waters were high. I have found here three Schools, each of them with about twenty scholars ; and distributed Tracts amongst them. Two of the Demogerontes and the Politarch called upon me. After giving them books, one of them read aloud the whole of the February Number of the '' Philanthropist." The Politarch, whose tall and martial figure appears to have raised him to his post, inquired whether any reward after death was to be expected, for fighting in defence of country and religion. I examined the Oracular Cave described by Dr. Clarke. The fictile superstructure and altar have entirely disappeared ; but the cavern, which was employed to delude the superstitious multitude, still remains. It would have been well if such delusions had been practised by the Antients only ; but the history of Modern Greece would, I fear, be a much longer catalogue of lying wonders, Niketas, one of the most celebrated Chieftains of the Morea, is here at present. On account of his warlike deeds, he has received the appellation TovpKoipuyoq, " Turk-eater." He described to me, with much interest, some of his most celebrated 328 TOUR IN acliievements. He estimates the loss of the Turks at Dervenaki, and the other Pass, in which he eng"ag-ed the Pasha of Drama, at 6000 men. Like Kolokotroni, he was formerly in General Church's regiment, in Zante. He spoke with warmth, as all other Greeks do, of the debt of gratitude which they owe to Great Britain, for undertaking their cause. Captain Hamilton he called "^vxoTrarrjp^ *' Adopted Father of Greece." TRirOLITZA. April 3, 1828 — I write amidst the Ruins of Tri- politza. Few places afford more scope for serious reflection. View it seven years ago, filled with a population secure and numerous — the abode of Beys, Pashas, and every rank of the community. Here the proud Turk stalked along in his fancied great- ness, little dreaming of the terrible overthrow which so speedily awaited him. Then behold Tripolitza suddenly filled with alarm and apprehension, crowded with refugees, so as probably to contain within its walls 40,000 persons, and enduring a blockade of seven months ! Next, the tremendous catastrophe ! — thousands upon thousands are slaughtered, thou- sands are reduced to slavery — the streets literally flow with blood ! Immediately followed a visitation of Providence on the infuriated victors — a pesti- lence, which extended itself to the most-distant THE MOREA. 829 parts of the Morea, and which carried off five or six thousand souls ! Afterwards, Tripolitza becomes a flourishing Greek town ; and is, apparently, given up to the same fatal security which before had seized the Turks. But suddenly the news is brought that Ibrahim Pasha approaches — the town is evacuated — the spoil is left for the conqueror, and once more Tripolitza is a Mussulman posses- sion. Last of all, but thirty-seven days ago, the Arab army abandons the place, but not till it had utterly destroyed every building within it ! Tripo- litza is now empty, and void, and waste (Nahum ii. 10) ; but the poor Greeks are beginning to flock again to their desolate houses, and once more hope for peace and security. . We set out from Argos very early in the morn- ing, and were almost eleven hours in reaching Tripolitza. The road is, for the most part, dreary; leading over lofty and barren hills, the principal of which is Mount Parthenius. In England, where the roads are so excellent, we do not readily per- ceive the force and just application of the Scriptural figures, derived from a stone of stumbling, and rock of offence, (Isaiah viii. 14, and similar passages) ; but in the East, where the roads are, for the most part, nothing more than an accustomed track, the constant danger and impediment arising to travellers from stones and rocks fully explain the allusion. Tripolitza is situated on a lofty plain, surrounded 330 TOUR IN on all sides by mountains ; so as strongly to remind me of the words, As the mountains are round ahout Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about His people, &c. (Psalm cxxv. 2.) The climate is remarkably cold in winter ; snow in large quantities, and frost of a severe description, being frequent. In summer it is considered an agreeable residence, on account of the coolness of the nights. The Demogerontes and others, treated me with kindness. The ruins by which we were surrounded afforded an excellent topic from which to offer serious observations ; and I directed their attention to a nobler city, to one which hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God, I also gave them some books for the Lancasterian School, which they intend to renew. In the precincts of one of the principal Mosques, an apartment formerly occupied by one of the at- tendants employed in Mussulman Worship had in part escaped destruction : there I spent the night. MISTRA. April 4, 1828. — I arrived here after a very long journey. We left Tripolitza about three o'clock in the morning, and reached Mistra only an hour before sunset. After crossing the Plain of Tri- politza, we first descended the dry channel of winter- streams, and had uninteresting scenery. Afterwards, THE MORE A. 331 the climate became genial, and the country beau- tiful. The shrubs are most ornamental ; at one time the hills being white with a beautiful Erica ; at other times yellow with a showy Spartium. The Arbutus, Evergreen Oak, Mastic, and other shrubs, grow most luxuriantly. I also observed the Anemone apennina, the Fritillaria meleagris, a fine species of Iris, and other beautiful flowers. But little cultivation was visible either to-day or yesterday. For the last three years, much land has been suf- fered to lie waste. The prophecy, Isaiah vii. 23, 24, has been almost verified in the Morea ; and the traveller adopts the language of Jeremiah (iv. 2, 6): / beheld, and, lo ! the fruitful place was a wilder- ness, and all the cities thereof tvere broken down. Descending on the vale of the Eurotas, Mount Taygetus bursts upon the view in a most striking manner. The Eurotas was flowing clear and rapid, and might easily have been forded. We crossed it by a high bridge of one arch. According to the information which is given me, Mistra contained, before the Revolution, 800 houses.^ At present, all the Turks are gone, and there are about 150 Christian Families. The Arabs came four times to Mistra ; twice unexpectedly : they ' Pouqueville and Sir William Gell give a much more considerable population. My informants, in regard to the former population, were irersons of good information ; and the Priests computed the present num- ber of inhabitants by actually naming and enumerating each family. 332 TOUR IN burnt all the houses and churches, whilst the wretched inhabitants fled to the mountains. In one of these expeditions, the Arabs actually ascended to the very summit of Mount Taygetus. April 5, ] 828. — I find myself amidst the Ruins of Ancient Sparta. The place is now called Ma- goula, being about three-quarters-of-an-hour dis- tant from Mistra. The walk is one of the most delightful that can be conceived, leading amidst olive and mulberry plantations and vineyards, and surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting scenery. Add to this, '* the voice of the nightin- gale never was mute." And who, except for the ruined hamlets which occurred in the way, would ever have conceived that the tide of war had so recently and so furiously swept over these fields ? The ruins cover a considerable space of ground, but have little in them that is striking to a super- ficial observer. A Theatre is the most remarkable object. The site of the town is now cultivated. The scenery is thus described by Dodwell : — " All the plains and mountains that I have seen are sur- passed, in the variety of their combinations and the beauty of their appearance, by the Plain of Lace- daemon and Mount Taygetus. The landscape may be exceeded in the dimensions of its objects ; but what can exceed it in beauty of form and richness of colouring ? " I met with a man amongst the ruins who told me THE MOREA. 333 a story which is, I trust, characteristic of one Mo- dern Spartan only. He choked one of the Turkish Prisoners at Napoli to death, by applying his fingers to his throat ! This method of execution was preferred, in order that no injury might be done to his rich clothing. April 6, 1828. — This morning, soon after mid- night, almost as brisk a fire of musketry commenced as if Ibrahim Pasha was again approaching. In this manner the Greeks were displaying their joy at the arrival of Easter. Long before sun-rise my friends were faring sumptuously on lamb and other dainties, finding such a repast a fine treat after the fast of fifty days. In the afternoon, I accompanied Agallopulos and many other friends to the Metro- polis. Here we conversed much with the Bishop and others, and were present at the Vespers. Eas- ter-day is the chief festival of the year in the Greek Church ; and the Gospel is chaunted, with innu- merable prefaces and repetitions. An accompani- ment on the bell had rather a ridiculous effbct. For forty days after Easter the common forms of salu- tation are suspended in Greece ; and in their room are substituted the words, " Christ is risen : " the reply is, " He is risen indeed." It is usual, also, for the parties to kiss each other ; and to present eggs, coloured red. In the evening, I rode up to the Castle, with the General, George latrakos, and spent the night with him. 334 TOUR IN ^pril 7, 1828. — I visited tlie Ancient Amyclse, now called Sklavo-chori. The ride was exceed- ingly delightful, leading through the Village of Agianni, and over the plains of the Eurotas. Passing under the olive-trees, I noticed, as I have fre- quently done before, how easily the accident which befel Absalom might actually occur. It is neces- sary to be continually on one's guard against the branches of trees ; and when the hair is worn in large locks floating down the back, as was the case with a young man of the party, any thick boughs interposing in the path might easily dislodge a rider from his seat, and catch hold of his flowing hair. The custom of wearing the hair exceedingly long, which St. Paul condemns as eff^eminate, in his First Epistle to the Corinthians (xi. 14), is still common in Greece, especially amongst the Priesthood. Ab- salom doubtless wore his hair in this manner (2 Sam. xiv. 26) ; and Homer celebrates continually the Agianni has still 80 families : before Ibrahim Pasha's arrival it had 100. We passed by a Turkish tower-like residence about one hour further, in which fifteen Greeks kept Ibrahim Pasha's army at bay for fifteen days ; and, last of all, whan he was on the point of blowing them up with a mine, they effected their escape to the mountains, in the night. • " Achseans, with the head of flowing hair." THE MOREA. 335 Small towers of this description abound in Greece ; and they are frequently mentioned in the Scrip- tures (Matt. xxi. 33. Luke xiii. 4 ; xiv. 28 ; and in the Old Testament). Silk is a very important pro- duction of the Province of Mistra : before the Revolution, 18,000 okkas were yielded annually : at present, only 7000 or 8000. I have distributed a considerable number of books in Mistra, and hope to send many more from Na- poli : I have also sent books to the villages of this province. In the whole Province of Mistra there are said to be 30,000 souls. In the evening, I walked up to the Metropolis, to take leave of the Bishop. He pressed me so strongly to spend the night with him, that I could not refuse. My visit afforded me such an oppor- tunity of making known the Truth as I always highly value. The Bishop was very inquisitive on religious subjects ; and I was enabled to inform him of the most important points of difference between our respective Churches, with great freedom. The permission, which Protestant Bishops and Clergy- men have to marry, appeared extraordinary to him and his attendants: he approved of it, however; and spoke of an Eighth General Council, when the same liberty would be given to themselves. I met with much hospitality and friendship at Mistra ; and feel convinced that such amicable intercourse with the Greeks may, by the Divine Blessing, be greatly 336 TOUR IN serviceable to the cause of Truth. If the Greeks are not hindered by their Government, I believe there will soon be a wide and effectual door open amongst them. LEONDARI. April 9, 1828 — The Bishop, at parting", requested me to write to him. At eight o'clock, started for Leondari. After reaching the Eurotas, we pro- ceeded, for a considerable distance, along its banks; it is beautifully fringed with the Platanus, with poplars, and other trees : villages appear to the left, on the declivities of the mountains. We left the Eurotas at the Village of Georgitxa. Here we were overtaken by a very heavy rain, which we were obliged to bear patiently for more than an hour. At length we reached the Mill of Logara, where we found shelter for the night. The Village of Longanico is an hour distant. In the mill, I met with a Caloyer from the Monastery of St. George, which is four hours distant, on the moun- tains. He could not read ; but I sent some Tracts by him to the Hegoumenos. He told us, that the other day a wolf in the neighbourhood had destroyed eighteen sheep. Oh ! that there had been no wolves of another and a worse description in these countries ! But, alas ! some of those who have assumed to themselves the office of Christian Teach- THE MORE A. 337 ers must be referred to the number of those of whom St. Paul prophesied, Acts xx. 29, — After my de- parting shall grievous wolves enter in among you, not sparing the flock. " Wolves shall succeed for Teachers, grievous wolves, Who all the sacred mysteries of Heaven To their own vile advantages shall turn, Of lucre and ambition." ' April 10, 1828 — Every thin^ reminds me that I am in Arcadia: the country all the way to Leon- dari is enchanting ; Nature appears in all her wild- ness : the whole land, hills, and dales, is a beau- tiful forest, or rather a natural park. The spaces between the trees are occupied by pasture-grounds, where the shepherds feed their flocks ; and they have, invariably, the large crook, which we observe in pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses. At Leondari we find the same desolation which everywhere else marks the steps of Ibrahim Pasha. A few houses have lately been rendered tenantable. I observed several ancient and almost ruined Churches, resembling those near the Castle of Mis- tra : one of them served as a Mosque before the Revolution : now, again, it has become a Christian Temple. Before the war, there were at Leondari 59 or 60 Grecian Families, and 200 Turkish : now about 20 Greek Families have reassembled. Mv 1 Milton's Paradise Lost, Book xii. 508. Q 338 TOUR IN principal acquaintance here is the Oekonomos Pana- giottes : he is a mild, pleasing character. T pre- sented him with a few books for the people, and engaged to send him more from Napoli. In his house I met with twelve or thirteen ragged pea- sants ; and delivered a Discourse to them, to which they listened with much attention. Here, as every- where, I gladly embrace every opportunity of tes- tifying I'epentance towards God, and faith toicards our Lord Jesus Christ. KARIDENA. April 11, 1828 — From Leondari we crossed the Plain of Megalopolis, to Karidena : the journey employed us six hours. The Ruins of Megalopolis were a short distance to the right, their situation being marked by a solitary cypress : on the left was Mount Lycaeus. About half way, we reached the Alpheus, and crossed it just below Karidena. Immediately after my arrival I gave away a few Tracts : but I soon had reason to repent this pro- ceeding, for the house was almxost instantly beset by an immense number of boys, clamorous for books. I was unable to satisfy them, as my stock is but small. Went up to the Castle which Kolokotroni has lately built, and visited his mother. The old lady had with her a little boy, her great grandson. I was rather amused to hear her always designating THE MOREA. 339 her son, the celebrated Chieftiaii, by the appella- tion, " The Old Man." She soon began conversing" concerning *' the Almighty :" and thus afforded me an opportunity of shewing the importance of having that Great Being for our Friend. She requested one of the Captains, who was present, to give me ** the answer." April 12, 1828 — Before the Revolution, there were in Karidena 200 houses, of which 36 were Turkish, the rest Greeks : there are now only 82 families here. In the province are 140 Villages, which Spilios Kolas counted off to me on his string of beads. The province may contain 30,000 souls. Kolokotroni having informed me, in ^gina, that I should see at Karidena ** the retreats of the Greeks," I to-dav went to examine one of them The excursion has been most extraordinary. After descending a steep path, almost to the channel of the Alpheus, we turned off upon the right bank, climbing along the edge of a dangerous precipice, and having precipices far more tremendous impending over our heads. The scenery is most romantic : on both sides, the river has three abrupt banks ; they terminate in hills of great height, and are adorned with the most beautiful forest scenery. The river rolls between, contracted into a very narrow chan- nel : and, at this time, it was roaring tumultuously along, being swollen by the late rains. The ca- vern, which was the object of our expedition, is in Q 2 340 TOUR IN the face of the rock, aud it was not without danger that we scrambled up to it : we entered to a con- siderable distance, without reaching the extremity. In this cave, no less than 1000 persons, by actual enumeration, found shelter. They had provisions for five months ; and when the Arabs came and fired at the mouth of the cavern from the crest of the rock, they laughed at their efforts. The Israelites in ancient times resorted to a similar means of defence. Judges vi. 2. 1 Sara. xiii. 6 Isaiah ii. 19. From one of the rocks above, the Greeks precipitated a poor Arab Prisoner. My attendant made the assertion, that his limbs parted from his body before he reached the bottom. At Karidena, it is still usual for school-boys to have a small clean board, on which the master writes the Alphabet, or any other lesson which he intends his scholars to read. As soon as one lesson is finished, the writing is washed out, or scraped out ; and the board may thus be continually em- ployed for writing new lessons. Not only does this instrument harmonize, in its use, with the writing-table, mentioned Luke i. 63, but the Greeks call it by the very same name, TTij/a/c/Sicv.^ u4j)ril 13, 1828 — I preached in the principal Church, from the words, If ye then he risen with Christ, seek those things which are above : but I » 1 have since found that this Writing-table is common in other Greek Schools. THE MOREA. 341 lament to say, that I preached without energy and effect. Of what importance it is for a Minister of the Gospel to have his own mind always deeply affected by those important truths which he proclaims to others ! — then, and then only, will his words fall with weight upon the hearts of his hearers. *' What can be more awful," says Baxter, ** than a dead preacher preaching to dead hearers the living truths of the Living God ! " May such a character be never applicable to myself or any other Missionary ! The Greeks observe those early habits, in regard to the time of Divine Service, of which we find such frequent mention in the sacred writings. They have generally finished their Liturgy before an English- man leaves his bed : hence, at Hydra, Karidena, and other places where I have preached in the Churches, I have been literally in the situation of the Prophets, rising up early y and speaking unto them : (Jerem. vii. L3.) In Karidena I left fifty Tracts, for distri- bution, with the Oekonomos ; besides others which I gave to a schoolmaster. Soon after the Service, I set out for the Mon- astery of Kalami : the road leads over picturesque hills and dales. Near to the Monastery, we came, to my surprise, to very extensive ruins of polygonal masonry : they are the remains of the Ancient Gortys. After conversing for a short time with the three or four Monks in the Monastery of Kalami, we proceeded to the Monastery of Agianni. Leaving 342 TOUR IN the little Church of St. Andrew, which is situated on the banks of the Gortyna, we ascended one of the most romantic glens which I ever beheld. On both sides, the rocks tower to a prodigious height, having their precipitous faces adorned by the most elegant sylvan scenery. Down this tremendous height fall very beautiful cascades : at the bottom of the abyss, the Gortyna roars and dashes along, more frequently heard than seen. In the face of the rocks are many of those caves, in which, for the last three years, the Greeks have found refuge from Ibrahim Pasha. Most of them have the en- trance in part walled up; and their situation and form give them, in some degree, the appearance of martins' nests. The Monastery of Agianni itself is nothing else than one of these caverns, with its exterior built up on a larger scale : it required no small toil to reach it. Here we found three or four Caloyers, and several families which had fled hither for refuge in these troublesome times. '* Never," they said, " had a Frank made his appearance there before." I delivered to them a discourse on the danger of an unconverted state : they listened with much attention. The distance from hence to the Monastery of Philosophou, could we have employed wings to fly across the valley, is short ; but we had to descend and ascend, to cross the foaming Gortyna on a tree thrown across it, to climb over most abrupt and dan- THE MOREA. 343 gerous precipices, and to wander about in a thick forest without footpath. At last, after many a weary step, we reached the Monastery : our horses had gone round, from the Church of St. Andrew's, by another road. April 14, 1828 — In the Monastery of Philosophou, I have found several Manuscripts. One of them is a fine Lectionary of the Gospels, on vellum, and held in great veneration, as a miracle-working Gos- pel. There is also, on vellum, a Manuscript of St. Matthew ; and various others, containing Discourses of different Fathers. DEMITZANI. Walked from the Philosophou to Demitzani. To my surprise, on approaching the town, a large portion of the inhabitants, headed by the Priests, came out to meet me. Bells also were rung; and patararoes fired. Little more could have been done, had the Governor himself arrived. Such a recep- tion as this I felt to be something more than is suitable to a Missionary, and would gladly have dispensed with it. It gave me, however, an oppor- tunity of addressing a great part of these, my kind friends, on the subject of Religion ; and they listened with seriousness. With two of the principal Priests I had some free conversation, and, I am happy to 344 TOUR IN say, with good effect. I laboured to shew them that the important part of Religion was not either the immersing or sprinkling in Baptism ; nor even whe- ther the Holy Spirit proceeded from the Father only, or from the Father and Son conjointly ; but that it consisted in a genuine conversion of the disposition and character. The School of Demitzani is by far the most cele- brated in the Morea. It was established sixty-five years ago, by Hadji Gerasimo. The first master was Agapius. Scholars resorted from all quarters ; and there were sometimes as many as 220. Many Bishops, and other distinguished characters were educated here : among the rest, Gregorius tlie Patri- arch, who was put to death by the Grand Signor. There was formerly a Library of about 1500 volumes connected with the School ; but great part of the books have perished, having been used for cartridges at the siege of Tripolitza. There are about 350 houses in Demitzani ; and, most happily, they have escaped that general ruin in which almost every other part of the country has been involved. There are, at Demitzani, several powder-mills : but the inhabitants acknowledge that they cannot produce gunpowder equal to the European. THE MO RE A. 345 ZATOUNA. April 15, 1828 — I walked over to Zatouna, a neighbouring village of about 150 families, and was received with equal or even with greater honour than at Demitzani. The Priests and principal in- habitants met me on the brow of the hill, from which their village first makes its appearance ; and, with bell-ringing and firing of patararoes, accom- panied me to the church. Here all joined in singing an Easter Hymn ; which ended with the accustomed chaunt for the three Sovereigns who have so hap- pily interfered for the welfare of Greece. It was truly affecting to observe the enthusiastic manner in which they implored long life on these their bene- factors. As I had now a Congregation assembled before me, I delivered a regular Discourse from the Bishop's seat, pressing upon them those infinitely important interests, in comparison of which all else is less than nothing, and vanity. I also gave them an account of the Bible Society, and urged th« importance of procuring and studying the Holy Scriptures, I am sorry to find that at Zatouna the old divisions have not yet ceased : they complained much to me of some individuals who disturb the peace of the community. They have actually ex- communicated five of them, and taken other steps Q5 346 TOUR IN of a nature rather too violent. Before I departed, I distributed Tracts amongst the Children of the School : 60 or 70 of them were assembled. A valuable relic of the Library of Demitzani still remains ; viz. a beautiful Manuscript of the Ho- milies of St. Basil. It is on vellum, large folio, beautifully illuminated. I also found a volume con- taining several Manuscripts bound up together. That which is most beautifully written is the ''Aphorisms of Hippocrates;" another is the ''Melissa (Bee) of Antonius." The latter was written, as the copyist testifies, in the year 1587. LIVARGI. April 16, 1828 — We set out about two hours before day-light ; and at sun-set arrived at the Village of Livargi. On the way we crossed the River Rophias (the Ancient Ladon), one of the finest streams in the Peloponnesus. All along its banks, plane-trees abound, deriving nourishment from its waters. They strongly remind me of the beautiful similitudes in the First Psalm, and in Jeremiah xvii. 8. In the East, this and various other Scriptural images, which are furnished by the peculiarity of the climate, are well understood. In our own country, where moisture never fails, their force is not perceived. Approaching Tripotamo, we saw, on the left, the THE MORE A. 347 Monastery erected by the Monk who lately became so famous throughout the Morea. This old man preached to the Greeks to abstain from theft and other sins ; and strongly pressed upon them to fast perpetually — to abstain from the duties of marriage — to give up all Turkish property which had fallen into their hands — and to use no other weapon than the sign of the Cross. He solemnly assured the misguided multitudes, that in this manner the Turks would all perish, and themselves would be defended from on high. I should myself have been rather disposed to consider the man as deceived, than a de- ceiver, were it not for the immense suras of money which he amassed by means of his preaching. I have been assured that he collected no less than 700,000 piastres, the offerings of the enthusiastic multitudes. Their eyes were opened when Ibrahim Pasha came and put the old man to death, and took possession of his treasures. April 17, 3828 — This morning 1 enjoyed much freedom in preaching in the principal Church. I warned my hearers of their danger ; and admon- ished them, that in no other name under heaven could they hope for salvation, except the Xame of Christ. In Livargi are about 150 houses. From Ibrahim Pasha they have suffered nothing ; as they submitted to the Turks, or *' worshipped," according to the common expression. From their own country- 348 TOUR IN men, however, they met with severe sufferings : Sisiunes and Gennaeos came, and, according to their account, ruined them by exactions. Here is a Schoolmaster, with about forty scholars : I gave him Tracts. The inhabitants have also resolved to establish a Public School, and have engaged a Master. April 18, 1828 — I feel persuaded that a very serious religious impression has been produced on many persons in Livargi. May it be permanent ! I proceeded to the Monastery of Sopato, and found there a considerable number of vellum Manuscripts of the Fathers. Had any Traveller the time to ex- amine the Manuscripts which still exist in Greece, I believe he might find some valuable relics. At Sopato are about 150 houses. KALAVRITA. April 19 — The road to Kalavrita is at first moun- tainous ; and all the hills are adorned with forests. We found scarcely any thing but ruins in the town of Kalavrita : before the Revolution it had about 800 houses, Turkish and Greek. I noticed that the Greeks had treated a large Mosque here as we find that the Israelites, under Jehu, treated the Temple of Baal, 2 Kings x. 27. THE MOREA. 349 MEGASPELAION. We arrived in the evening* at Meg^aspelaion. This is by far the most extensive Monastic Esta- blishment in the Morea. It contains 150 Monks. During the Revolution, it has become a species of fortress, having- a very strong position. There were assembled here no less than 5000 Refug-ees ; and though Ibrahim Pasha came twice and made attempts upon them, he was unable to effect any thing. The Caloyers informed me that the Monas- tery was founded 1400 years ago ; but their papers are lost. The great attraction to Megaspelaion is a celebrated picture of the Panagia, which they seriously believe to be the workmanship of the Evangelist Luke. A considerable part of the Mon- astery is, as its name denotes, ** a Large Cave." A striking precipice of 400 feet impends so far over it, as almost to secure it from any annoyance from above; and it is surrounded by the most romantic scenery. April 20, 1828: Sunday — This morning I preached in the Church, from these words — If ye then be risen with Christ, seek those things which are above. A very large number of persons was present, not only of the Caloyers, but also of the Refugees. They listened with great attention. Let me record it as an instance of peculiar liber- 350 TOUR IN ality in the Oriental Church and in the Greek Nation, that a Protestant Minister has been per- mitted so often to preach in their Churches, and even at the most solemn Services of their Religion. Whatever may be the future state of Greece, I shall always cherish amongst my fondest remem- brances these instances of kindly feeling ; and I shall earnestly pray, May God bestow on this Church the privilege of Philadelphia (Rev. iii. 8), Behold , I have set hefoi'e thee an open door, and no man can shut it ! and may all those who are permitted, as Heralds of the Gospel, to occupy this sacred opportunity of doing good, be men filled with the most tender affection towards the members of this communion ; and endowed with such heavenly wisdom, and aided by such divine power, that they may be enabled to apply to the Oriental Church the words of the Prophet, Arise, shine, for thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord is risen upon thee! April 21, 1828 — With Germanos and others, I have had valuable opportunities of pointing out the leading errors of the Greeks : when questioned by them on various subjects, I declared my faith, and gave my reasons for it. When Truth is developed in this friendly manner, the effect is good. THE MOREA. 351 PHONIA. Our journey to-day has been of a most moun- tainous description. We readied the region of snow, and looked down upon the Gulf of Lepanto. The common Crocus, the Fumaria Bulbosa, a Hy- acinth, and many other plants, were flowering beau- tifully on the very verge of the snow. We traversed extensive Pine Forests ; and, after descending from the lofty mountain of Chelmos, found a very popu- lous country. In all directions, villages appeared beautifully situated : the principal is Klouchines. On the neighbouring summit of Chelmos one of the greatest disasters befel the Greeks which they have experienced at the hand of Ibrahim Pasha. A vast concourse of people had fled to that lofty eminence, supposing that it would prove inaccessible to the Arabs : but, unhappily, the words of Jeremiah were literally applicable to them — Truly y in vain is sal- vation hoped for from the hills and from the mul- titude of mountains (iii. 23). Neither rocks nor snows prevented the Arabs from springing, like wolves, upon their prey ; and hundreds of the poor Greeks were precipitated headlong down the rocks, and hundreds led away into captivity. The women, in these parts, are of a most labo- rious character : they are everywhere seen at work in the fields, and the most toilsome employments 352 TOUR IN of agriculture are performed by their hands. The men, as I am informed, leave them for five months or more in the year ; and are employed in Napoli, Hydra, and other towns, in masonry, carpentry, and similar occupations. The women, as in many other parts of the East, wear a profusion of orna- ments. The language of Canticles, i. 10, is literally applicable to them. In the Monastery of Agios Georgios, near Pho- nia, I found an opportunity of proclaiming the Truth to some Monks and others : a serious im- pression was made. There are about thirty Caloyers in this Monastery. At Phonia, or rather the Kalybia of Phonia, I am spending the night. In this village there are 400 houses : it is a bustling place. April 22, 1828 — Our route led us along the Lake of Phonia. This collection of waters is a singular phaenomenon. Before the commencement of the Revolution, there was but the semblance of a lake, the waters escaping through a cavity in the earth ; but, in the year 1821, this cavity was, in all proba- bility, choked up, as the waters since that time have been continually overspreading the plain, and at present compose a lake not much less than Derwent- Water. There is little doubt they will still continue to increase, and indeed rise to the same level at which they have arrived on some former occasions : two years will, probably, bring them to the traces THE MOREA. 353 of the water-mark mentioned by Pausanias, which are still visible. The country people consider this event as miraculous ; and relate, that the same occurrence took place when the Turks conquered the Morea from the Venetians. They have been great sufferers by the inundation, as they have lost their fine vineyards and corn-land ; and perhaps, in time, may lose some of their houses. The moun- tains around the Lake are beautifully clothed with forests, and capped with snow. After leaving" this scene behind us, we descended into another plain, at the further extremity of which we reached the Lake of Stymphalus, now called Zaracca. On the road we noticed the ruins of a Khan. These houses of refreshment were formerly common in the Morea, being, at convenient distance between towns, lodging-places for wayfaring men (Jeremiah ix. 2) ; but they have all been destroyed.^ In the Lake of Zaracca we observed the Kataba- thron, into which the waters are precipitated : they emerge twenty miles distant, at the source of the River Erasinos, near Argos. The journey from this lake to Agios Georgios is not very interesting. A fertile plain, on which Phlius was situated, pre- cedes the last-mentioned village. Agios Georgios contains about 300 houses. ' See page 25. 354 TOUR IN NAPOLI. April 23, 3828 — I arrived in Napoli soon after mid-day. The road for about two hours ascends and descends gentle hills ; and afterwards, for four hours, crosses the fine Plain of Argos. On the way, one of the muleteers told me a story which reminded me of David's approaching the encamp- ment of King Saul in the night, and carrying oif the spear and the cruse of water (1 Sam. xxvi. 12). The narrator entered the Turkish camp in the night, and took oiF a fine horse, and, from the very bolster of the sleeping Turk, a musket, yataghan, and two pistols. Such events are not unfrequent in Greek and Turkish warfare. The fig-tree is now in the state to which our Saviour alludes, in His prophecy concerning the destruction of Jerusalem — its branch is tender, and putt eth forth leaves ; hence we know that summer is nigh (Matt. xxiv. 32). Ajjril 25, 1828 — During my tour, I continually distributed the Malta Publications : and to-day I have put in circulation 1000 Tracts, by selling them at a low price — three paras a piece : they will speedily be dispersed through the Morea. A supply of Scriptures, which I expected, is not arrived. April 30 — Tzounes, who has just been appointed Governor of Upper Messina, called, and informed THE MOREA. 355 me that the other day he had been President at the Assembly of the District of Argos, convened for the election of Demogerontes. He had caused a prayer, in the modern language, addressed to the Deity, and without a sius^le allusion to the media- tion of Saints, to be publicly read at the openins: of the Assembly. I heard it repeated ; and was much delighted to perceive such an auspicious beginning of reformation in Public Prayer. May 1 — Tomaras informs me that a large number of the Turkish Women, who were taken captives in the war, have been baptized and married. He supposes that in Syra there may be fifty of this description. Mai/ 3 — I had intended to sail this evening for Syra ; but so great an alarm everywhere prevails in consequence of the breaking out of the plague at Hydra, that I cannot depart without the prospect of a long quarantine : hence I deem it advisable to defer my voyage. KIVERI. May 6, 18'2S — I left Xapoli yesterday evening, with Mr. Fiulay, a Scotch Gentleman ; and came to Argos. Just before leaving Xapoli, my man, Peter, arrived from Spezzie ; having sold books there to the value of 1:25 piastres. I started with Mr. Finlay soon after sun-rise. We passed the 356 TOUR IN Fountain of the Erasinos, now called Kephallaria, and the Lernaean Marsh. I observe that the peasants in Greece not only still carry their wine to market in skins, but also their milk. Such, in all probability, was the bottle of milk which Jael opened for Sisera (Judges iv. 19). Tico bottles of wine Cf. Sam. xxv. 18) appear to an English reader but a trifling present for David and his numerous companions ; but two skins of wine, which they doubtless were, are something much more consider- able, being a load for an ass or a mule, as I have often witnessed. General Jarvis, an American Gentleman in the Greek Service, who had very hospitably received us last night, accompanied us as far as *' the Mills." He informs me, that in the Province of Maina it is common to plow icith an ox and an ass together, a practice forbidden by the Law of Moses (Deut. xxii. 10). At the distance of thirty minutes from the Mills, is Kiveri, a village of twenty houses : on the way, are rice-grounds of considerable extent. The well-known practice of keeping the rice- grounds under water renders applicable to them, even more than to corn-lands, the expression of Eccles. xi. 1. Cast thy bread upon the waters ; for thou shalt find it after many days. THE MOREA. 357 ASTROS. The road from Kiveri to Astros leads, for the most part, over uninteresting hills, near the sea- shore : the whole distance from Argos to Astros is six hours. The neig-hbouring Village of Agiannes is the chief centre of population, in the vicinity of Astros : it contains 250 families, and is distant from thence three hours-and-a-half. Astros itself is at present little more than the scala, or landing- place. In sight are the Kalyhia of Prastos and K^irakovouni. Before the Revolution, there existed at Agiannes a School of Mutual Instruction and of Ancient Greek : it was founded by Demetrius Kartzotes ; and possesses a library which, for Greece, is considerable, and contains most of the Greek Classics and Fathers. I was interested at finding here a small production of Asopius, which might be called the Modern-Greek Reader: it is a collection of moral pieces, of a very interesting nature. One of the stories particularly attracted niy attention, as it shews that a method of ad- ministering justice similar to that usually styled " The judgment of Solomon" still prevails in the East (I Kings iii. 16 — 28). I shall relate the anec- dote, not exactly as it occurs in the text, but with the addition of names and other circumstances, as I have learned them from a native of Joannina. 358 TOUR IN Two Christians were on a journey from Salonica to Joannina. One of them, finding himself in want of money, resorted to his friend's benevolence, and obtained from him the loan of a considerable sum. The latter demanded no security for the re-payment of his money ; but relied on a verbal promise, that he should be reimbursed at the journey's end. After reaching" Joannina, the borrower proved so ungrateful and unjust, as not only to refuse the payment of his debt, but actually to disclaim all knowledge of the circumstance. What can the creditor do I He appeals to the judgment of All Pasha : he states the wrong which had been done him: but, as he is unable to bring forward any document or w itness in proof of his allegation, the accused denies the whole. " Was there nothing at the place," says Ali Pasha, *' which could prove a witness of the transaction — not even stones or trees ? "' " Yes," replied the accuser, " there was a large plane-tree." — " Go, then," rejoined the judge, " bring hither a branch from the plane-tree, and let the other remain till your return." He instantly departed ; and forthwith the Pasha began to amuse the company with the relation of such stories as are frequent in the East. After some time, he perceived the attention of the accused to be deeply engaged in the entertaining narratives : he therefore suddenly addressed himself to him, with the words — " Well, fellow! has the other not THE MOREA. 359 yet returned?" — *' Returned ! " he replies; ''the distance, please your Highness, is by no means small." — ** Ah, you wretch!" says Ali Pasha, *' you know the place, then, where you received the money, but of the money itself you have no re- collection ! " He instantly gives orders that the culprit be well bastinadoed, and that he refund the money to its rightful owner. At Astros we were hospitably entertained, in the house, or rather Castle, of Zaphyropulos ; but the Master was absent, and his brother did the honours, A wish was expressed to hear me preach on some Sunday or Feast-day ; and I hope that, on another occasion, I may have that favour. The Castle proved impregnable to the desultory warfare of Ibraham's troops : only sixty-four men were within it for some days, but, afterwards, they received reinforcements from Napoli. On the hill are some old Cyclopian walls, of a very rude description. A Priest informed me, that, the same morning, he had baptized a Turkish Boy. The sea was the baptistry. May 6, 1828 — In consequence of the embarrass- ments thrown in the way of travellers by the report of plague, I had judged it expedient to return to-day to Argos, and accordingly proceeded for an hour-and-a-half in that direction ; but, on the way, my feelings reproached me so strongly for abandon- ing Mr. Finlay, that I could not rest till I had 360 TOUR IN turned my horse's head and gone in quest of him. As I knev^ that he intended to visit the Monastery of Lukos, and Agios Andreas, I proceeded to the road leading from the latter place to Karakovouni, and there awaited his arrival. How often have I to regret a want of attention to the wishes and happiness of others ! May God forgive my selfish- ness ; and enable me to attend daily to the com- mandment, Thou shall love thy neighhour as thyself! A kind and obliging deportment often preaches more effectually than long sermons. On the Plain of Astros, I observe that wine- presses are still to be met with in the vineyards. More frequently the grapes are pressed out at home. Thus, in our Lord's parable (Matt. xxi. 33), the householder ^j/a/ifec? a vineyard, and dug a wine-press in it. The villages which border the plains have been utterly destroyed by the Arabs. How applicable to the Morea is the language of the Prophet — Your country is desolate ; your cities are hurned with fire: your land, strangers devour it in your presence : and it is desolate, as overthrown hy strangers\ (Isaiah i. 7.) KARAKOVOUNI. The distance from Astros to this place is four hours. The number of houses is 120, but many of them are vacant. During the Revolution, 120 THE MOREA. 361 men have perished : the number of families now resident is 80. Here, as in many other parts of the Morea, it is usual to have both a summer and a winter residence. Thus the whole population of Karakovouni spend their summer on this elevated situation ; but, on the approach of winter, they remove to their village, which, as usual, is called the Kalyhia (Cottages), and which is situated on the edge of the plain. I found one Priest here, but no School. An hour from hence is the Monas- tery of Orthokosta ; in which is a Manuscript of Methodius of Patara, prophesying the Greek Re- volution, and subsequent plague, famine, and other remarkable events : such is the information which is here given me. 1 have heard much more fre- quently of the Prophecies of Agathangelos : in them the Greeks repose much faith ; and I have heard, indeed, so many extraordinary things con- cerning them, that I regret my want of time and opportunity to examine them. LENIDI. May 7, 1828 — From Karakovouni to Lenidi is a distance of about 4 hours 53 minutes. It is situated in a deep hollow, between stupendous precipices ; is beautifully adorned with olives ; and is asserted to contain 1000 houses and five churches. , May 8 — Visited the School of Theodosius,, and R ^62 TOUR IN was much pleased with it : there are forty scholars ; and the Master, having been educated at Haivali, is a man of information : it is the best Ancient- Greek School which I have seen in the Morea. I am sorry to say, that there is not, at present, any Lancasterian School at Lenidi. Prastos and Lenidi belong to the same persons ; Prastos being* the summer, Lenidi the winter residence : but, as the Arabs have burned Prastos, at present the inha- bitants spend even their summer at Lenidi. The heat would be almost insufferable at Lenidi, were it not that during the day a fine inhat continually blows from the sea ; and during the night a land- breeze blows down the glen, in an opposite di- rection. The district which I am now visiting is usually called Tzakonia, and is remarkable for having a dialect peculiar to itself. This language is spoken in Lenidi, Kastanitza, and Sitina, by a population of 6000 or 7000 persons : the Modern Greek is also well understood by them, but, amongst themselves, they speak Tzakoniat. The little observation which I had time to make inclines me to believe that it is nothing more than a dialect of the Hellenic, under a different form of corruption. Some Ancient Greek words are used, which are not to be met with in Romaic. Others are employed in both dialects, but with a different pronunciation ; and some words are used, the derivation of which I have not had THE MOREA. 363 opportunity to investigate. Colonel Leake has given a Vocabulary of this language, in his Researches. May 11, ]828: Sunday — This morning, I preach- ed in the principal Church, to a large Congregation, from the words. Be ye reconciled to God. In the evening, two persons called upon me, one of whom appeared to have been very seriously impressed under the morning's sermon. I thank God for such appearances of success. It is such instances as this which afford me satisfaction ; not the compli- ments which some others employ. I had much conversation with Theodosius ; and spoke to him very plainly on the guilty fear of those persons who, though knowing better, still leave their country in ignorance. I asked him, if his conscience did not reprove him for such conduct I He replied, ** No." To me it is surprising, how many enlight- ened Greeks can feel at ease in the habitual con- formity to practices and doctrines which they know to be erroneous. ASTROS. May 12, 1828 — On my return to Astros, one of the Muleteers, a Turkish Youth, informed me that there are about thirty Turkish Slaves at Le- nidi. He expressed a \s4sh to become a Christian ; but I found him totally ignorant of the nature of our Religion. Were I a rich man, what delight R 2 364 TOUR IN should I have in taking with me such young men, and providing for them a Christian Education. At Astros I found such an opportunity of speaking on Religion as was little short of a regular ser- mon : but I fear that I spoke too severely. Of what importance it is, that affection be always blended with seriousness ! ARGOS. May 13 — Returned to Argos. In Greece, the shepherds count their flocks, by admitting them one by one into a pen. This is the custom to which Jeremiah alludes (xxiii. 13) : In the cities of the mountains, &c. shall the flocks pass again under the hand of him telleth them. General Jarvis in- forms me that Ibrahim Pasha counted the Greeks who surrendered to him at Navarino, in the same manner. May 16 — The barley harvest is now going for- ward. As Argos has the greatest extent of corn- land in the Morea, at least at present, a great number of persons are assembled here from all parts, in order to glean. I see the young women, in particular, returning from their employment, with large quantities upon their backs, Here, then, we find a custom prevailing similar to that in w.hich Ruth was engaged (ii. 3). May 18, 1828—1 have interchanged visits with THE MOREA. 365 the Bishop of Tripolitza. He and the Bishop of Andrussa are the only two who survived the severe imprisonment which six prelates suffered at Tripo- litza, in the beginning of the Revolution. Besides them, twelve Priests were imprisoned, of whom only four survived. Who can conceive the horrors of Turkish imprisonment ? I have had a partial view of it at Constantinople, in the case of our poor Jewish Converts. There are men here who have an art somewhat similar to that for which Egypt has long been fa- mous. They handle, and carry in their bosom, not only the other species of serpents, but even vipers ; and gain money by selling a medicine, which, as they pretend, is a preservative against the serpent's bite. May 24 — During the last week, alarms of plague have been renewed ; and it has made its appearance at Cheli, four or five hours distant. Not only has all ingress from the country been, in consequence, cut off; but the shops have been closed, and even the Schools and Churches, Serious apprehensions are also entertained of the renewal of warfare on the part of Ibrahim Pasha. Amidst all the con- fusion of war and pestilence, may the Cause of Christ make progress ! The Greeks have the superstitious idea, that the Plague, or rather the cause of the plague, is a supernatural Female, who walks about at night, 366 • TOUR IN robed in black, enters the houses, and notes the victims who are destined to destruction. My man quotes the authority of persons who pretend to have seen her. Without imputing to the Inspired Writer any such ridiculous conception, is it impos- sible that the expression in Psalm xci. 6, may have been borrowed from such a notion ? — the Pestilence that walketh in darkness. May 26, 1828 — The Greeks have carried their antipathy to the Turks to such a pitch, that they have destroyed all the storks in the country. On inquiring the reason, I was informed, ** The stork is a Turkish bird : it never used to build its nest on the house of a Greek, but always on that of a Turk ! " The tenderness which the Turks display toward the feathered tribe is indeed a pleasing trait in their character. May 29 — In Greece, horses are employed to tread out the corn, as was sometimes the case in Judaea (Isaiah xxviii. 8) : and with regard to them, the law is observed which Moses gave to the Jews concerning oxen (Deut. xxv. 4). Hence they find means, in the progress of their labour, to partake pretty largely both of the straw and of the grain. I also see the Greeks frequently winnowing with the shovel (Isaiah xxx. 24). The various allusions to harvest, and its concomitant observances, in the Sacred Writings, derive much illustration from the practices of these countries. THE MOREA. 367 My stay in Argos was of a month's duration. I had hoped, during this interval, to be able to aid the circulation of the Scriptures in the various parts of the Morea which I had visited ; but, un- fortunately, the plague had excited such alarm, that Napoli was barred against all ingress, and I had no opportunity of obtaining the New Testa- ments which had arrived from Syra. I found oc- casion, however, to make known the Truth to various individuals ; and I rejoice to recollect the names of several young men who lent an attentive ear to my remarks. I now repeat an observation which I made more than two years ago, that everywhere I discover some persons to whom religious Truth is a grateful subject. On the one hand, they be- come enlightened as to the various corruptions of their own communion ; and, on the other, they escape from the still more dangerous gulf of Infi- delity, into which so many fall headlong. God has bestowed on me the inexpressible favour to sow the incorruptible seed of Revealed Truth at Argos, and in various other places ; and I feel strongly persuaded that He will also give the in- crease. It is manifest, that, in various parts of the East, a work of preparation for the reception of Christian Truth is most decidedly going for- ward. I say not, that many persons have arrived at that establishment of Christian character which is designated by the term *' Regeneration ; " but 368 TOUR IN I do afRrm, that many have had their minds so far enlightened, and so far interested in this im- portant subject, that, when the door for proclaiming the Gospel shall be more widely and effectually opened, there is a good hope that more individuals will gladly come forward, will embrace the wished- for opportunities, and will become willing converts to the true doctrines of Christianity. At present, every one who is interested in the cause of Christ, contemplates the political aspect of Greece with intense interest. He frequently inquires. Whether the New Government will lend assistance, or other- wise, to the efforts which are in progress for the benefit of its subjects ? Whatever the answer may be, convinced I am that our labour has not been in vain. If not the great good which we hope, yet some good will assuredly be the result. Thousands of copies of the New Testament are gone forth ; and other testimonies to the Truth, both oral and printed, have been given. Thus are thousands of voices crying in the ivilderness, " Prepare ye the way of the Lord: make straight in the desert a highway for our God ! " (Isaiah xl. 3.) We leave, then, our humble efforts to the blessing of the Most High. Before I left Argos, the plague had advanced as far as Omer-baka, a village only an hour-and-a half distant: and letters from Napoli now inform us that it has found its way into Argos itself. I THE MOREA. 369 find much cause for gratitude, that, under these circumstances, I was enabled to reach Syra. I could not pass by the route of Epidaurus and ^gina, as I had intended ; for the road was closed : but I found means to reach Kalamaki, near Corinth ; and there the health-officer was so polite as to procure me a passage for Syra. R 5 app^niij:* APPENDIX, (No. 1.) JOURNAL OF JOANNES LAZARIDES. (See p. 123.) July 8, 1828 — I arrived at the Point of Andros, from whence I made a tour of the neighbouring- villages. I found a young Cephalonian, with whom I conversed, at length, on religious duties, on Regeneration, and that hy the works of the Law no one can he justified (Rom. iii. 20) ; and that God hath given us eternal life, and this life is in His Son (1 John v. 11). In the end, he became pleased, and professed his need of reformation. I sold a considerable number of Gospels {i, e. New Testa- ments) and Tracts ; and presented copies of the latter, gratis, to many poor Children. From thence I went to the Kastro of Andros. 374 JOURNAL OF July 12 — Conversation with a learned Latin (i. e, Roman Catholic). He expressed the opinion, that the English take the words of the Gospel according to the letter ; and brought forward, as an example, 1 Tim. iii. 12, z. e, '* they marry: — but the Wife of the Latin Priests is their Church." I read to him 1 Tim.iv. 1 — 3 : The Spiidt speaJceth expressly ^ that in the latter times some shall depart from the faith — forhidding to marry, &c: and he remained without answer. I also proved to him concerning the Bread and Wine, that they are not changed, but remain in their original substance : and that the Scripture nowhere speaks of the Mediation of Saints, Angels, and the Holy Virgin : and even concerning the danger of Idolatry ; and that they teach their people according to their own Tradition, and not according to the Gospel : (Matt. xv. 8, 9.) He was almost persuaded by my words. July 18, 1828: Lamyra — Conversation with Hadji Papas Elias, concerning the Seven Mysteries. I pointed out to him two only as more essential, Baptism and the Communion, but with extreme friendship ; — and spoke of the Traditions of their Fathers, who have handed down things at variance with the Gospel ; and the injury resulting from them ; — and concerning the new Forms of Prayer, and Uncanonical Books, which ought not to be read in the Church, but only those which are Canonical, and which these are ; — and that the modern Idolatry JOANNES LAZARIDES. 375 {work of mens hands) resembles the Idolatry of the Ancient Greeks. I also read to him the passage Rom. i. 23. After I had spoken concerning many similar subjects, he said to me, " O that we might be counted worthy, Brother, to see one fold and one Shepherd ; and that then the subjects of accusation, and the errors, might be obliterated from amongst us ! " I then passed to Mesaria, and was engaged in selling and distributing from noon to evening. I visited two other villages, Menites and Apikia. Throughout the whole of Andros, I did not leave children, or small or great, without bringing them to an enthusiasm for reading such useful books. They have also a School, well built ; to which Mr. Brewer presented ten dollars, for the payment of the Master. Hitherto, one of the Committee retains the ten dollars, and their School is not in a good state ; since those Children only learn to read who are able to pay the Master. I therefore said twice to the Committee, many othf rs being present : ** Brethren, that present of the ten dollars was solely for the poor Children, who have not the means to pay a Master. You ought to have per- formed your duty in harmony with our object : we ought to have seen your Children enlightened. But since, hitherto, you have neglected duties so plea- sing to God and so useful to the public, I now entreat you, in the name of God, to neglect them 376 JOURNAL OF no more. I really see the desire of your Children. I hope I have benefitted you all, both with words and with the distribution of the Word of God : and if I perceive that you have the desire and a change of mind, I will present you with 15 Gospels, gratis, for the poor Children ; which, after they have read and been catechised from them at least twice in the week, must be left in the Library of the School ; and thus must always remain there for successive scholars." They gave me promises, that, on the arrival of the Governor, Count Metaxa, they would act according to the advice which I had given them. Almost continually I was conversing in the style of exhortation in different parts, and often in assem- blies of many Christians : — *' Brethren, what ad- vantage is it to us to abstain from various kinds of food, whilst we devour the flesh of our brethren with evil-speaking ; and with other impieties, by means of which we defile the true kind of fasting ? True Fasting consists in bringing into subjection our evil passions. There are some persons who abstain, during Lent, from smoking tobacco, and from coffee ; and who become inaccessible, and of down- cast appearance, in order to do honour to the Fast : and some adorn the pictures and temples of the Saints, whilst they oppress the innocent, and leave without assistance Christians suff'ering want, who are the temple of the Living God. And yet such persons imagine that they have accomplished all that JOANNES LAZARIDES. 377 is necessary for their salvation. No, no, Brethren, they have not accomplished what is necessary ; and, in fact, they subject themselves to the rebuke of Christ, by confining their piety to external obser- vances, and neglecting tJie weightier matters of the Law — -judgment, mercy, and faith : Matt, xxiii. 23. Such persons, according to the heavenly Truth, worship God in vain, with the lips only, and not with their heart ; and teach other doctrines — their own commandments : (Isaiah xxix. 13. Matt. xv. 8, 9.) In order that we may avoid all unlawful worship, we must not have before us (as the Holy Scripture commands us) either an Image, or the likeness of any thing that is in heaven or in earth ; but, on the contrary, we must worship God with spirit and truth .^^ Judgment of the persons present, and of one of the Committee : — Some said, that the Scripture does not speak for the Pictures. Others: *' If, as we perceive, it is forbidden, we ought not even to have Pictures." Others: *' If it does not permit even the likeness of any thing, what else is a Picture but the likeness of a Saint ? " To whom I answered : " In truth it is not permitted : it were well that we had not such likenesses." I also read to them Romans i. 23. In conclusion, I trust their minds were impressed, and that they were comforted. In the whole of Andros, I sold 38 copies of the large Testament, and 28 of the small, and Tracts to the 378 JOURNAL OF value of 100 piastres ; besides what I bestowed gratuitously to many truly poor Children. Zea : Aug. 6, 1828 — Religious conversation with one who is a Deacon and Teacher of the School of Mutual Instruction. I asked him if it was long since he had read the whole of the Sacred Scrip- tures. ** Scarcely ever have I read it," he replied; ** since I had it not." I then presented him with one of the Diglotts {i. e. the large edition of the Ancient and Modern Greek) ; and when he was exceedingly delighted, I said, *' Let us begin now and read a passage." I began to read 1 Tim. iii. ; and after he saw that the Bishop must be blameless^ the husband of one xcife, for a short time he reflected ; and then said to me, '* Brother, what is that which it writes ? I do not believe it ; it must be an error." When he had taken the Scripture into his hands, he read the Original only, in order that he might search for the truth: and when he was well certified that the Deacon also must be the husband of one icife, he said to me, " Brother, were then is our wife I " To whom I also read 1 Tim. iv. When he had understood this chapter, he said, *' Truly our Caloyers (Monks) have apostatized from the Faith, and have hindered us to marry ! Do you know, Brother, what they promised me, that that I might become a Monk ? They shewed me their fine robes, their silver plate, their good eating and drinking ; they flattered me, in order to make JOANNES LAZARIDES. 379 me a Caloyer ; and they even ordained me Deacon gratis." When I perceived that he found pleasure and liking for the Sacred Scriptures, I said to him : ** Brother, you will find many such examples in the whole of the Scriptures, when you read them, cal- ling for assistance from on High." By degrees, I shewed him, that from Jesus Christ alone comes our salvation, 1 John v. 11, 12; — that our own works do not justify us, but faith in Jesus Christ ; since ftve are justified gratuitousli/ with His grace (Rom. iii. 2, to the end) ; — that good works are the fruit and evidence of true faith ; — that there is one God, and one Mediator, Jesus Christ ; and through him we have access, hy one Spirit, to the Father (1 Tim. ii. 5. Eph. ii. 18) ; — and that in the whole Sacred Scripture there is not found one single command to pray to, or to worship, Saints, Angels, or the Holy Virgin, but God only: (Matt. iv. 10. Phil. iv. 6. Acts X. 25, 26. Bev. xxii. 8, 9. Coloss. ii, 18.) He was persuaded by all my quotations, except concerning the Holy Virgin. He said : ** It does not displease Christ, if I glorify his Mother." I replied to him : '' My friend, we do not see any command in the Scriptures to pray to her, or infor- mation that she mediates for us, as I said before to you. See how Christ treats her. Matt. xii. 47, 48. John ii. 4. xviii. 26 ; knowing that we should after- wards deify her, as is at present the case with our nation. For when we say, '* With all our heart. 380 JOURNAL OF soul, mind, and with our lips, we glorify thee," and when we call her '' Queen of Heaven and Earth," what other adoration or glory remains for God? Does not the text Rom. i. 25. apply to us ? They worshipped the creature more than the Creator. I said to him, *' Truly she was the most holy of Saints, but was not, however, God." At length, I convinced him. In our few private meetings with different per- sons, I openly disproved the \Yorship of Pictures. I represented the subject in this manner. '* You say, that this Picture does miracles, but the other not : but if one has that power, the other also must have it. But since one does not possess that power neither can the other. Do you wish me to give you certainty ? Bring me any Picture you please ; and if, on breaking it, my hands fall off, then there is a miracle. Do you not see, that your most famous Pictures have been destroyed, at different times, by so many Infidels ; and that your sacred things have been trampled under foot ? And what did those Infidels suffer I they neither were blinded, nor did their hands fall off. Why ? because the Pictures are not in harmony with God's will." They began to say to one another, " Our friend speaks well. We see, indeed, evident miracles at the present day. We see Infidels, Idolators, Savages, embracing the Sacred Gospel, and becoming truly followers and zealous Apostles of Christ — nations, and entire JOANNES LAZARIDES. 381 kingdoms, without superstitions, prejudices, and old traditions." I also spoke to them concerning the Lord's Supper, and Fasts, and Mysteries, that they are not as they imagine. I proved to them which are such according to the Gospel, and which are according to their Tradition. According to my ability, I taught them in different parts ; and in Coffee-houses I frequently read to them the more requisite parts of the Sacred Gospel. T fear that I may trouble you with my prolixity. I beg you to entreat the Lord for me, to open and regenerate my heart and mind, that I may become, in future, useful to my Christian Brethren. Give my humble salutations to Mr. Benjamin Barker i tell him that I am eager to fulfil his commands ; and that I attend to my employment, knowing the things of this world to be dung and dross. Last of all, I entreat you to write, on my account, to my master, Mr. Leeves : from whom, after so many years' acquaintance, I shall not hide my respect, requesting that I may still render him my faithful services. May he live, and have me in his kind regards, as he always has had ! I remain, &c. JOANNES LAZARIDES. 382 APPENDIX, (No. II.) LETTER OF PROFESSOR BAMBAS. {See p. 135.) 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