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DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES 
 
 OF 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 CALVERLEY ESTATE; 
 
 WITH BRIEF NOTICES OF THE PICTURESQUE SCENERY, SEATS, 
 AND ANTIQUITIES IN THE VICINITY. 
 
 By JOHN BRITTON, F.S.A. 
 
 AND OF OTHER ENGLISH AND FOREIGN SOCIETIES. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR, BURTON STREET ; 
 
 LONGMAN & CO. PATERNOSTER ROW J AND RODWELL, NEW BOND STREET, 
 SOLD BY NASH, AND BY ELLIOTT, TUNBRIDGE Y ELLS, SiC, 
 
 M.DCCC. XXXII. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Dedication iii 
 
 Preface vii 
 
 Sketch I. 
 
 Outlines of a few scenes and objects on the road between London 
 and the Wells. A Panoramic View of the Wells, sketched 
 with pen and ink, marking some of the prominent features of 
 
 the place, with a variety of groups, single figures, and inci- 
 dental objects 1 
 
 Sketch II. 
 
 Characteristic features and objects which constitute the older 
 parts of the Wells: the Calverley Park, and other modern 
 improvements = 45 
 
 Sketch III. 
 
 Remarks on the Air, Water, and on Diseases for which the water 
 is recommended, by Dr. Yeats 65 
 
 Sketch IV. 
 
 Remarks on the Geology : with Notices of Seats, Scenes, and Anti- 
 quities in the environs of the Wells 95 
 
LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 1. Map of Tunbridge Wells, with Plan of the Church, and 
 
 Elevation of Baston Lodge — {facing title). 
 
 2. Map of the Calverley Estate, with Vignettes of three 
 
 Lodges 48v 
 
 3. Plans and Views of four Villas in Calverley Park .... 50-54 ^ 
 
 4. View of the Parade, with celebrated Characters 37 
 
 5. View of the Church, &c. from the Common 56 
 
 6. View of the Wells from the Frant Road 49 
 
 7. View of Calverley Park from the South-east 54 
 
 8. View of Farnborough Lodge, Calverley Park 53 
 
 9. View of Baston Cottage 55 
 
 10. View of the Church from the South-west 56 
 
 1 1 . View of the Priory Building, and East End of the 
 
 Church ib. 
 
 12. View of Tunbridge Castle 123 
 
 13. Victoria Gate, Calverley Park (wood-cut) 98 
 
 14. Brambletye Cottage (wood- cut) 143 . 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Considering myself almost a veteran in Topogra- 
 phical and Antiquarian literature, from having de- 
 voted nearly forty years to the subject — after visit- 
 ing and describing many of the famed watering" 
 and sea-bathing" places of the kingdom, I was at 
 last tempted to sojourn a few days at Tunbridge 
 Wells, in the summer of 1830. Pleased with the 
 wildness and picturesque features of the place and 
 surrounding country, interested by the many at- 
 tractive antiquities, objects of art, and of historic 
 fame, which are to be found within a few miles of 
 the Wells," and finding that I could be wafted 
 rapidly and easily from the metropolis to a fashion- 
 able hamlet so rural, and yet so well adapted to 
 administer to the comforts and luxuries of life, I 
 was not only seduced to study its characteristics, but 
 to commit to the press a few facts and reflections 
 on the subjects named in the title-page. These are 
 not the lucubrations of idle moments, but have been 
 produced at intervals, between other more pressing 
 occupations. 
 
 The wealthy and the idle may follow the chase 
 of pleasure — may obey the impulses of whim and 
 
viii 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 fashion — may be in the gay and ever -attractive 
 metropolis in its gayest seasons of the year, or seek 
 the animating recreations of the field in the autumn 
 — may traverse all the regions of the globe for 
 amusement, information, or to kill time" — and 
 may also lounge through the evening and night, 
 and sleep through the day at any rendezvous of 
 fashion and folly. But the man habituated to studies, 
 or to business, or to any species of active employ- 
 ment, cannot easily, or instantly, detach himself 
 from them, and say, — Henceforward I will be 
 supremely idle, and indulge in all the luxuries of 
 an indolent life.'^ But was idleness ever luxurious? 
 can it produce worldly enjoyment ? 
 
 I remember that my late learned and estimable 
 friend, the Rev. John Whitaker, the historian of 
 Manchester, and author of other works, was ordered 
 by his physician to abstain from closet studies, and 
 seek change and amusement in the gay city of Bath. 
 The transition was prodigious:" — it was from a 
 secluded village in a wild part of Cornwall, where 
 his parishioners were uneducated peasants, miners, 
 and fishermen, to a city where every sort of luxury, 
 fashion, and folly, prevailed. Yet habit is second 
 nature ; " and books had been for so many years the 
 daily companions of our good man, but caustic critic, 
 that he could not live without them. Warner's 
 History of Bath" had just made its appearance 
 on Mr. Whitaker's arrival at Bath, and it was 
 purchased by him, read with avidity, and criticised 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 with severity. For three or four successive months, 
 many pages of the Anti-jacobin Review" were 
 occupied by the castigating animadversions of the 
 invahd who visited Bath for relaxation — for the 
 purpose of amusing the mind by change and variety. 
 Coming to London soon afterwards, he told me that 
 he never engaged more eagerly in a task than in that 
 of criticising the History of Bath." With some 
 similitude of habits, but influenced by a very different 
 disposition — for my friend, like Dr. Parr and Mr. 
 Ritson, could not avoid being censorious and sen- 
 tentious — I never visit a place without inquiring 
 into its history and topographical peculiarities, and 
 have ever felt an inclination to say or do something 
 towards improving the one, or elucidating the other. 
 My physician, and my eyes, tell me that I must 
 soon close the book of small print, and seek relaxa- 
 tion and amusement in the ever-varying, never-tiring, 
 book of nature, where, in Shakspeare's language, I 
 may find 
 
 " Books in the running brooks, 
 Sel'mons in stones, and good in every thing/' 
 
 The present small volume of Descriptive 
 Sketches" is intended to furnish the stranger, who 
 visits Tunbridge Wells, with some general informa- 
 tion respecting the natural features and artificial 
 peculiarities of the place ; and also to point r)ut to 
 him objects in the vicinity, which not only attract 
 the notice, but are entitled to the particular attention 
 
X 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 of the admirer of picturesque scenery, the antiquary, 
 historian, and man of taste. Each of these classes 
 of persons will find ample materials for their re- 
 spective studies and amusement in the neighbour- 
 hood ; and some may reasonably require much more 
 ample information than can be contained within the 
 compass of a vade-mecum like the present. Sources 
 will be pointed out where such may be obtained ; 
 for it must be borne in mind, that I profess to fur- 
 nish merely Sketches, — z. e, hints, or notices, — to 
 awaken the imagination, and induce the inquirer 
 to seek further, for the purpose of making finished 
 pictures. As artists' sketches are of varied kinds, 
 and of different degrees of finish and effect, so are 
 the Descriptive Sketches" of the Author. In one 
 artist we see a mere outline of forms and contours; 
 another advances a little further, and puts in a few 
 touches of detail and individuality of feature ; whilst 
 a third heightens and embellishes his sketch with 
 light, shade, and effect. Each of these may be 
 equally beautiful, and equally intelligible, to the 
 practical artist ; but the last only will be under- 
 stood by the uninitiated eye, and will consequently 
 be best appreciated. 
 
 Besides the authorities referred to in the course 
 of the ensuing pages, many particulars in this 
 small volume have been derived from the kind 
 and unreserved communications of the following 
 gentlemen, to whom I beg to tender my thanks : 
 Decimus Burton, Esq. ; John Joseph Bramah, Esq. ; 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xi 
 
 Jeddere Fisher, Esq. ; P. F. Robinson, Esq. ; Mr. 
 Thomas Fry ; Mr. Sandall ; Mr. Squirrell ; Mr. 
 Nash, of the Post-office ; and Mr. Clifford, the author 
 of " A Guide to Tunbridge Wells.'' Dr. Yeats, 
 who has practised many years at the Wells, has 
 at once obliged me and the public, by writing, ex- 
 pressly for this work, an essay on the climate, tem- 
 perature, and waters^ of the place. Gideon Mantell, 
 Esq. of Lewes, has conferred a similar obligation by 
 his scientific remarks on the geology of the district. 
 Zealously attached to the study of this science, and 
 its immediate associate, mineralogy, Mr. Mantell 
 has collected a very interesting museum of specimens 
 illustrative of both, as appertaining to the South 
 Downs, and other parts of Sussex, and has published 
 two valuable volumes on the subject. To the Rev. 
 P. S. Dodd, and the Rev. Dr. Yates of Penshurst, I am 
 obliged for much friendly attention during my visits 
 to the famed seats of the Sydneys ; and to the Rev. 
 Dr. Knox, J. Scoones, Esq., and John George Chil- 
 dren, Esq., for civilities respecting the town and 
 famed school of Tunbridge. By the polite permission 
 of the Marquess Camden, I was allowed to explore 
 every part of the interesting ruins of Bayham Abbey ; 
 and similar indulgence of the Earl of Plymouth en- 
 abled me to examine the mansion, and its pictorial 
 contents, of Knole. To my old friend Thomas Bar- 
 rel, Esq. I beg to express my acknowledgments for 
 some literary assistance in the following pages. 
 
HINTS TO VISITORS 
 
 Tunbridge Wells is calculated to afford domestic 
 accommodation to almost every class of visitors, from 
 the prince or princess, with appropriate retinue and 
 household, to the solitary batchelor in sulky single- 
 ness. Houses of varied sizes and styles of fittings-up, 
 — also lodgings of different grades, are to be found 
 there. The large Sussex and the Kentish Hotels are 
 adapted for the higher classes of persons, who pro- 
 pose to sojourn for a short time ; while the smaller 
 hotels, or inns, the Camden, the Castle, the George, 
 the Swan, will be found convenient, comfortable, 
 and moderate in charges. A new hotel, on a large 
 scale, is to be erected on that fine and commanding 
 site, Mount Ephraim. 
 
 Particulars respecting lodging-houses, as well as 
 board and lodging, may be known of the respectable 
 tradesmen of the place. 
 
 The architect who has been employed in the 
 improvements on the Calverley Estate, is Decimus 
 Burton, Esq. of Spring Gardens, London, and also 
 of Tunbridge Wells. The parties interested in 
 the buildings in Calverley Park, &c. are, Messrs. 
 Bramah and Sons, of Pimlico, and of Tunbridge 
 Wells. 
 
DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES, 
 
 ETC. ETC. 
 
 SKETCH I. 
 
 A PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE WELLS, SKETCHED WITH PEN AND 
 INK, MARKING SOME OF THE PROMINENT FEATURES OF THE 
 PLACE, WITH A VARIETY OF GROUPS, SINGLE FIGURES, AND 
 INCIDENTAL OBJECTS. 
 
 At the distance of thirty-six miles south of London, 
 thirty from Hastings, and the same distance from 
 Brighton, is the retired and picturesque hamlet of 
 Tunbridge Wells. In topographical language, it 
 must rank as a hamlet, or a series of hamlets, con- 
 nected with, and subordinate to, the mother parishes 
 of Tunbridge, Speldhurst, and Frant. Mr. Rick- 
 man, in the Population Census of 1831, improperly 
 calls it a town." Its parochial peculiarity, being 
 partly in Kent, partly in Sussex, and forming por- 
 tions of three parishes, occasions some legal disputes ; 
 but it is expected that an Act of Parliament will 
 soon be obtained to settle and define the rights and 
 privileges of the place. The south-western part of 
 the Wells, a small portion, is in the parish of Frant 
 and county of Sussex, whilg; all the remainder is 
 within the county of Kent ; its greater portion being 
 part of the extensive parish of Tunbridge. As the 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 houses and population form integral parts of the 
 three parishes already enumerated, we are not enabled 
 to specify the number of the former which strictly 
 belong to and constitute the Wells." 
 
 Like many towns of fashionable notoriety, and of 
 considerable magnitude, Tunbridge Wells has sprung 
 up from insignificance to consequence — from obscurity 
 to fame, within two hundred years. It is,'^ says 
 Mr. Amsinck, in his work on Tunbridge Wells/' 
 &c. the most ancient public place (with the excep- 
 tion of Bath, its contemporary, but with which it 
 admits not of comparison) in the kingdom." At the 
 beginning of the seventeenth century, it obtained, like 
 Bath, the notice, and was subjected to the periodical 
 government of that leader and arbiter of the heau-- 
 monde, Richard Nash, Esq., who not only attracted 
 around him a large assemblage of obedient sub- 
 jects, but completely governed them by his despotic, 
 though salutary, laws.^ Thenceforward it grew in 
 public favour, and consequently increased in size 
 and renown. Many people of fashion frequented it 
 for the season, and some persons of fortune purchased 
 portions of land, and built houses. Within the last 
 ten years many and great improvements have been 
 made, and others are still making, to augment both 
 the comforts and luxuries of those who take up their 
 abode here. Considering the active spirit that pre- 
 vails with some of its principal landed proprietors, 
 
 * In the History, &c. of Bath Abbey Church, I have given a 
 brief biographical sketch of" Beau Nash.^' 
 
CITY AND COUNTRY. 
 
 8 
 
 and the means they possess, it may be fairly pre- 
 sumed that every succeeding year will be distin- 
 guished by increased attractions, to tempt the visitor 
 and to retain the resident. The tide of fashion, 
 which may be said to ebb and flow like the tides 
 of the ever-changing, but naturally regular, ocean, 
 has set in for this haven. Its time of flood cannot 
 be foretold, nor can human sagacity dare predict 
 when or why an ebb should occur. Its vicinity to 
 the overcharged and plethoric metropolis — its varied 
 attractions of picturesque and truly wild scenery — 
 the salubrious waters which perpetually flow from its 
 iron substrata — and the bracing and finely scented 
 airs which pass over its thymy commons and um- 
 brageous woods, are so many securities to the vale- 
 tudinarian and lover of nature, that we may say of 
 the Wells, as Shakspeare says of Cleopatra ; 
 
 " Age cannot wither, nor custom stale her infinite variety/' 
 
 Fortunately for the lovers of retirement, Tun- 
 bridge Wells is not over crowded with population, 
 — is not formed of a congregation of narrow streets 
 and lanes, — of symmetrical, but flat and insipid, 
 rows of brick houses, — and therefore has little re- 
 semblance to Brighton, Margate, and other crowded 
 towns. On the contrary, here the majority of houses 
 are detached buildings, with gardens and lawns in 
 the front and at the rear, and command either ex- 
 tensive views over a wild or cultivated country, or 
 into the furze-clad common in their immediate vici- 
 
4 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 nage. Here nature, unadorned, but adorned the 
 most/' presents various attractive charms for the gaze 
 and inquiry of her votaries. The unenclosed com- 
 mon, bestrewed with broom, and heath, and bramble, 
 and rock, and thyme ; and the primseval hurst, or 
 forest, may be said to display the same features which 
 were familiar to the aboriginal Britons, the conquer- 
 ing Romans, the demi-civilised Saxons, Danes, and 
 Normans, in the first, second, fifth, ninth, and 
 eleventh centuries. Here, hill and dale, forest and 
 cultivated fields, commons, woods, meadow^s, and corn- 
 lands, interspersed with the sober green of the hop, 
 and its beautiful foliage and pendant clusters, are 
 alternately presented to the traveller, and afford to 
 the eye and mind an endless variety of objects and 
 scenes, which cannot fail at once to amuse the fancy 
 and excite the feelings. 
 
 Partaking of the ever-changing, ever-varied cha- 
 racter of the ocean, the surface-features of Kent and 
 Sussex are undulating, irriguous, and tossed about 
 into bold swells and deep hollows. In some places 
 there are tracts of perfectly level plains, like the dead 
 calm of the sea-waters ; and in others the ground 
 swells gently, and almost imperceptibly, into small 
 wave-like ridges, whilst some display abrupt, high, 
 beetling hills, and narrow, deep glens, resembling 
 the troubled billows of the ocean, when beaten about 
 by the fury of the storm. 
 
 The history of places, as of persons, is either im- 
 portant or trivial, according to the relative degree 
 
FAMED PLACES. 
 
 5 
 
 of public interest attached to each. The plains of 
 Marathon, the banks of the Nile, the campagna of 
 Rome, the fields of Cressy and Waterloo, the birth- 
 places of Raphael and Reynolds, of Bacon, Newton, 
 and Shakspeare, cannot fail to rouse minds of sensi- 
 bility and ambition to the highest degree of pleasur- 
 able excitement, and may even elicit some spark from 
 apathy itself. To abstract the mind," says the stern 
 and eloquent moralist. Dr. Johnson, from all local 
 emotion would be impossible if it were endeavoured, 
 and would be foolish if it were possible. Whatever 
 withdraws us from the power of our senses, whatever 
 makes the past, the distant, or the future, predomi- 
 nate over the present, advances us in the dignity of 
 thinking beings. Far from me, and far from my 
 friends, be such frigid philosophy, as may conduct 
 us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which 
 has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. 
 That man is little to be envied whose patriotism 
 would not gain force upon the plains of Marathon, 
 or whose piety would not grow warmer among the 
 ruins of lona."^ 
 
 * " Tour in the Western Islands of Scotland.'^ Marathon 
 is a village of Attica, about forty miles from Athens, near which 
 the Athenians obtained a signal victory over the Persians, b.c. 490. 
 The army of the latter is said to have consisted of 100,000 foot 
 and 10,000 horse, whilst the former had only 10,000 Athenians 
 and 1000 Platseans; but the military skill, intrepidity, and patriot- 
 ism of this small band prevailed, and drove the invaders from the 
 Grecian shores. — lona is a small island in the Atlantic Ocean, on 
 the western coast of Scotland, containing an area of about three 
 
6 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 The place now about to be described derives no 
 small share of interest, of claims on the attention of 
 the topographer and scholar, from its association 
 with many royal, noble, and eminent personages of 
 former times — the fanatic sectarians of the Cromwell 
 dynasty — the wits, the gallants, the profligate fop- 
 lings of the no less profligate Charles — royal and 
 noble visitors of more recent times, and persons of 
 literary distinction, of scientific eminence in a later 
 age. All these times and personages, with their local 
 and individual attributes, constitute *so many subjects 
 for inquiry, for reflection, for memory's festival ; and 
 though our limits will not allow of lengthened nar- 
 rative or comment, it will be necessary to point out 
 briefly, and it is hoped appropriately, such traits of 
 the whole, as may afford the reader some temporary 
 amusement, and excite a desire to seek further for 
 more detailed information. 
 
 Introductory to a particular description of the 
 Wells, it may be pleasing to many readers to take 
 a cursory notice of some of the prominent objects 
 which may be seen on the road between the metro- 
 miles in length by about three-quarters of a mile in breadth. 
 Here the ancient Culdees were established at an early age; and 
 from their devotional habits and character, the place obtained the 
 name of^' Holy Island/^ See Dr. Jamieson's learned Historical 
 Account of the Ancient Culdees of lona.^' 4to. 1811. 
 
NEW CROSS — LEWISHAM— NORWOOD. 
 
 7 
 
 polis and this rural retreat. The road from London 
 to Tunbridge Wells presents to the lover of nature 
 and art many objects and scenes to arouse his curi- 
 osity and interest his imagination. On a rising 
 ground near New Cross j about four miles s.e. from 
 Cornhill, the traveller emerges from the seemingly 
 endless rows of brick houses, and may then take 
 a retrospective glance over the immense metropolis 
 which he has quitted, with its numerous towers, 
 spires, and domes. A long line of the Thames is 
 indicated by a dense forest of masts of the shipping 
 which crowd the pool and the docks. Rotherhithe, 
 Deptford, Greenwich, and Charlton, are stretched 
 out beneath, and appear a connected town, skirting 
 the southern shore of the river ; whilst the park of 
 Greenwich, with its Observatory, noble forest trees, 
 and bold hills, at once closes the scene, and forms 
 a fine contrast to the levels below, and its countless 
 mass of houses. Shooter's Hill rises boldly to the 
 left. Passing through the village of Lewishamy whose 
 long street is skirted by rows of fine trees, and washed 
 by the small stream of the Ravensbourne, some irri- 
 guous eminences are descried to the right, beyond 
 and bounding the villages of Sydenham and Becken- 
 ham, whilst the view to the left includes the ruined 
 palace of Eltham, with its disparked and subdivided 
 grounds. On the slope of a hill in the hamlet of 
 Norwood, formerly noted as a haunt of the wander- 
 ing tribe of gipsies, is a saline spring, which is cal- 
 culated to compete in efficacy, if not in fashion, with 
 
8 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 the famed waters of Cheltenham, Leamington, &c.^ 
 On approaching Bromley y the finely wooded park of 
 Lord Farnborough is on the right hand, and the taste 
 of its accomplished occupants is shewn by two pictu- 
 resque lodges near the road. Bromley is a small 
 irregularly built town, in which is a large brick 
 building, called a College, founded by John Warner, 
 Bishop of Rochester, a.d. 1666. It was at first in- 
 tended for the residence and support of twenty cler- 
 gymen's widows, but further bequests have provided 
 accommodation and income for twenty more females. 
 The Bishop of Rochester has a palace about a quarter 
 of a mile from Bromley. In the town are two re- 
 spectable Inns, at either of which travellers may hire 
 post-horses, and obtain comfortable accommodation. 
 On the right of the road, for the next four or five 
 miles, is a continued series of woods and parks ; 
 among which is Holwood Parky where the late Right 
 Hon. William Pitt resided for some years, during 
 the most active part of his political life, and the most 
 eventful period in the history of civilised Europe. 
 It was purchased by John Ward, Esq. in the year 
 1822, by whom the house has been rebuilt, and the 
 park much improved. In the grounds are the 
 
 * See a very interesting pamphlet, recently written by Dr. 
 Weatherhead, of London, On the Beulah Saline Spa, at Nor- 
 wood," 8vo. 
 
 -f- From an early period, the Bishops of Rochester had a country- 
 seat here. A new house was erected by Bishop Thomas, in 1777. 
 Five or six bishops of the see were interred in the church of 
 Bromley. 
 
SCENERY : MORANTS COURT HILL. 
 
 9 
 
 banks, &c. of an encampment, said to be of Ro- 
 man formation, and where some antique vestiges of 
 the AngHcised Romans were discovered in the year 
 1829.^ Halstead Place ^ the seat of Alderman 
 Atkins, M.P. is seen from the road near Pratt's 
 Bottom. 
 
 After passing the 18th mile-stone, the traveller 
 reaches, without any apparent ascent, the brow of 
 a bold ridge, called Movants Court Hill, and is pre- 
 sented with one of those grand views which belong 
 to the hilly region of Kent, and which is distin- 
 guished by a broad valley of irregular width, con- 
 sisting of corn-fields, pasture land, parks, woods, 
 copses, (fee. The hill on the northern side is of chalk 
 formation, whilst that to the south is composed of red 
 sand, gravel, and marl. Villages, mansions, farms, 
 and villas, are scattered over the whole of this rich 
 vale, which exhibits to the eye a picture of luxurious 
 fertility and of picturesque beauty. The large ware- 
 house-looking mansion of Chevening Place, partly 
 built by Inigo Jones, immediately at the base of the 
 hill, was for many years occupied by that profound 
 mechanic, philosopher, and statesman, the late Earl 
 Stanhope, who prosecuted and perfected some of his 
 valuable and useful inventions at this retreat. Near 
 this park is Chepsted Place, a seat of Frederick 
 Perkins, Esq. ; Montreal, the seat of Earl Amherst ; 
 
 * See " Archseologia,'^ vol. xxii. ; and " Gentleman's Maga- 
 zine" for 1829, for interesting essays by Crofton Croker and J. A. 
 Kempe, Esqrs., both fellows of the Society of Antiquaries. 
 
 B 2 
 
10 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 and Kippington, formerly belonging to the Cobhams, 
 now to Colonel Austen. Adjoining the hamlet of 
 Riverhead are several other seats, which, being em- 
 bosomed in fine old woods, present, from their con- 
 tiguity, a seemingly continued forest. Among these 
 is the Wilderness, one of the seats of the truly 
 patriotic Marquess Camden. A small church, from 
 the designs of Decimus Burton, Esq., has recently 
 been built in the middle of Riverhead. In the church 
 of Westerham, seen from Morants Court Hill, is a 
 cenotaph to the memory of the gallant Major-General 
 Wolfe (a native of this place), who lost his life 
 in America, in 1759. In the same town was born 
 Dr. Benjamin Hoadley, Bishop of Winchester in 
 1670, who died in 1746, in the 85th year of his age. 
 Adjoining Westerham is Hill Parh^ the seat of 
 J. H. Barrow, Esq. The village church of Sun- 
 dridge, seen among trees, contains some interesting 
 monuments for different members of the Hyde and 
 Isley families. This church was altered and repaired 
 from the designs of Mr. John Carter, for Lord Fre- 
 derick Campbell, who resided at Coombe Bank, in 
 the vicinity. 
 
 The town of Sevenoahs crowns the summit of a 
 hill, which bounds the southern side of the valley 
 now passed over, and contains a spacious, fine church, 
 some very respectable houses, and two large, besides 
 smaller, inns. At the southern end of the town is 
 a large stone building for an ahiishouse and school, 
 founded and endow^ed by Sir William de Seven- 
 
SEVENOAKS — RIVER HILL. 
 
 11 
 
 oake.^ Immediately adjoining this town is Knole 
 Park, the celebrated seat of the Earls and Dukes 
 of Dorset, which, with some other seats and places, 
 between Sevenoaks and the Wells, will come under 
 notice in a subsequent part of this volume. 
 
 At the southern end of Sevenoaks is a respect- 
 able stone mansion, the seat of Multon Lambard, 
 Esq. The forest-looking park of Knole skirts the 
 left-hand side of the road, for about a mile beyond 
 the town, and numerous fine old beech-trees, with 
 their lengthened roots bursting from the gravelly 
 bank, gnarled branches, and silvery bark, spread 
 over and adorn the public way. Several neat villas, 
 with gardens and plantations, are seen on the right 
 of the road ; after passing which, the traveller comes 
 to the brow of another eminence, called River Hill, 
 which commands a wide, diversified, and fertile 
 vale, through which the river Medway meanders, 
 from the west towards the east. Although this valley 
 
 * Like the famous Whittington, Lord Mayor of London, this 
 person rose from beggary to opulence, and has perpetuated his 
 name and philanthropy in the benevolent foundation above noticed. 
 According to Lambard, in his Perambulation of Kent,'' De 
 Sevenoake v^as deserted by his parents when a boy, and found 
 lying in the streets of this town. By some charitable persons he 
 was brought up, and apprenticed to a grocer in London. " He 
 arose by degrees to be maior and chief majistrate of that citie." 
 (" Per. of Kent,'' p. 387 ; ed. 1576.) He was knighted by Henry 
 VL, and represented the city in parliament. After accumulating 
 great wealth, he died in 1432, and was buried in St. Martin's 
 church, Ludgate Hill, London. 
 
12 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 may be said to bear some resemblance to the one 
 previously passed, between Morants Court Hill and 
 Sevenoaks, by exhibiting in the general character 
 certain analogous features, yet every detail, and all 
 its component parts, are dissimilar. The ruined 
 mansion and park of Penshurst, with the undulating 
 grounds and woods around the town of Tunbridge, 
 also its ruined castle and turreted school -house, — 
 Quarry Hill, Summer Hill, and other seats, — with 
 a few village towers and a wide extent of country, 
 are spread out before the admiring spectator. The 
 turnpike-road conducts the traveller throLigh the 
 respectable town of Tunbridge, where the large 
 modernised gothic school-house, some gables of old 
 houses, the town-hall, the formal church tow^er, and 
 parts of the ancient castle, alternately attract atten- 
 tion. The river Medway, a dull, sluggish stream, 
 intersects the public road here, and is navigable for 
 flat-bottomed barges to the town. A road branches 
 off, to the left, to Hastings, &c. ; whilst that to Tun- 
 bridge Wells, and thence to Lewes and Brighton, 
 ascends a long acclivity, which only a few years 
 back was exceedingly steep. James Burton, Esq., 
 who undertook large building speculations in the 
 Regent's Park, &c., and, in the year 1828, designed, 
 and has already in great measure carried into execu- 
 tion, a new town at St. Leonard's, near Hastings, — 
 having purchased the estate of Quarry Hill, built 
 himself a residence there, and assisted in makins: the 
 road over this hill easy of ascent. Quarry Hill is 
 
QUARRY HILL — SCENERY. 
 
 13 
 
 now the seat of J. Deacon, Esq., who has recently 
 built large additions to the house. Here, as in many 
 other instances, great public works are projected by 
 enthusiastic individuals. Buonaparte employed his 
 army to form a road over the immense mountains 
 between France and Italy. If our soldiers, who are 
 too often shut up in barracks and public-houses, were 
 engaged about six hours a-day on public roads, canals, 
 &c. both they and their country would be benefited. 
 The views from this road, on taking a retrospective 
 glance over Tunbridge, and to the ridge of hills to 
 the south of the valley, — also to the west and east, 
 up and down the vale, — are highly interesting and 
 impressive. The eye wanders from dale to hill, from 
 wood to mead, from town to village, from castle to 
 mansion, and from the latter to the lowly cot, with 
 inquisitive and admiring curiosity. On contemplating 
 such a scene, who can say that England is little ? 
 that its fields are barren — that its inhabitants are 
 idle and worthless ? that the proprietor and the tiller 
 of her lands are not alike filling the destinies of 
 Providence, and entitled to omnipotent protection ? 
 Heartless and reckless must that man be who can 
 deliberately view these vast and magnificent displays 
 of nature without reverencing and adoring Nature's 
 God. They are evidences of Omniscience, and tend 
 to rouse and call into action the best qualities and 
 feelings of man, whilst they are calculated to subdue, 
 or at least correct, his bad passions. 
 
 But what would be all the charms of inanimate 
 
14 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 nature — her fruitful soil, her life-inspiring springs, 
 the perfumed airs of Araby the blest" — all that 
 is beautiful and picturesque, all that is grand, and 
 wild, and sublime in scenery — what would all these 
 be worth without Man — Man, in his greatness and in 
 his virtue? Here, then, without reference to casual 
 visitors, to the gay and brilliant, the elegant and 
 refined sojourners of the hour, is a superadded claim 
 to favour. The Men of Kent, properly so called," 
 observes Cumberland, the dramatist, who passed a 
 considerable portion of his long and useful life at 
 Tunbridge Wells, are a peculiar race, well worthy 
 of the attention and study of the philanthropist. 
 There is not only a distinguishing cast of humour, 
 but a dignity of mind and principle about them, 
 which is the very clew that will lead you into their 
 hearts, if rightly understood ; but, if mistaken or 
 misused, you will find them quick enough to con- 
 ceive, and more than forward enough to express, 
 their proud contempt and defiance of you. I have 
 said in my first volume of ' Arundel,' page 220, that 
 they are ' a race distinguishable above all their 
 fellow-subjects for the beauty of their persons, the 
 dignity of their sentiments, the courage of their 
 hearts, and the elegance of their manners.' Many 
 years have passed since I gave this testimony, and 
 the full experience I have now had of the Men of 
 Kent, ever my kind friends, and now become my 
 comrades and fellow-soldiers, confirms every word 
 that I have said, or can say, expressive of their 
 
SCRIPTURAL NAMES. 
 
 15 
 
 worthiness in my esteem."'^' After passing the vil- 
 lage of Southboroughjwith its beautiful^ well-timbered 
 common and new church, we arrive at the Wells. 
 
 Tunbridge Wells, as already noticed, may be re- 
 garded as a large scattered village, or series of ham- 
 lets, dispersed over an extensive tract of ground. 
 Different groups of the buildings, or portions of land, 
 are designated by names, which serve to indicate the 
 class of persons, or temper of the times, when they 
 were christened. Thus, Mount Sion, or Zion, Mount 
 Ephraim, &c. shew that a species of fanaticism must 
 have prevailed here, when those appellations were 
 given to particular spots. Although there be no law 
 of Moses or the Prophets to prohibit the misuse or 
 abuse of scriptural terms, we may be assured that 
 no truly good and truly wise person will ever be 
 guilty of the folly. During the Cromwell dynasty, 
 however, the cant of religion was the order of the 
 day ; and at that restless and fanatic time, it is pre- 
 sumed that the names above specified were conferred 
 on the respective places. 
 
 Before we point out particular parts and objects 
 of the Wells," it is intended to narrate a few events 
 and incidents, calculated to shew its origin as a place 
 of fashionable and valetudinarian resort, its growth, 
 and present state. The restorative Springs, which 
 rise in the parish of Speldhurst, and of which a new 
 
 * " Memoirs of Richard Cumberland/' written by himself. 
 Vol. ii. p. 180. Edit. 1807. 
 
16 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 and scientific account, from the pen of Dr. Yeats, will 
 be given in a succeeding portion of this volume, have, 
 from an early period, proved the chief, though not 
 the sole attraction for valetudinarians. The origin 
 of their celebrity is traced no further back than the 
 year 1606 ; but unquestionably their virtues were 
 previously known. 
 
 Tradition, though vague and uncertain, is fre- 
 quently imbued with the essence of truth ; and it 
 is to traditional narrative, rather than to historical 
 fact, that we are indebted for our knowledge of the 
 incident which brought the chalybeate springs of 
 Speldhurst into general repute. Declining all con- 
 troversy upon the subject, and taking it upon the 
 credit of preceding topographers, a slight sketch of 
 a well-known story will here suffice, which, though 
 again related in this place, does not command assent 
 to all its improbable parts. 
 
 By the dissipations of fashionable life, Dudley, 
 third Lord Norths a distinguished person at the court 
 of James I., had greatly debilitated his constitution. 
 Change of air was prescribed by his physicians as 
 the only mode of re-establishing his health. Accord- 
 ingly, in 1606, at the age of twenty-five, he found 
 a temporary retreat at Eridge House, a hunting-seat 
 of Lord Abergavenny's, romantically situated in a 
 
 * The soil for miles around Tunbridge Wells is strongly im- 
 pregnated with iron. St. Margaret^s Well, situated in the priory 
 grounds at Tunbridge, was known and resorted to, for its medicinal 
 properties, at a remote era. 
 
LORD NORTH. 
 
 17 
 
 wild country, without neighbourhood, and almost 
 without human intercourse.^' The seclusion was too 
 severe for his lordship's taste ; and, notwithstanding 
 the remonstrances of his friends, he soon determined 
 to return to London. Almost at the commencement 
 of his journey — for Bridge House is about two miles 
 only from the Wells — in passing through a wood, 
 he observed some water, on the surface of which 
 floated a shining mineral scum, and at the bottom 
 appeared a subsidence of ochreous particles. Tasting 
 this water, he found it ferruginous ; and believing 
 that it contained medicinal virtues, he directed some 
 of it to be conveyed to London, where he con- 
 sulted his physicians on its properties. Coinciding 
 in opinion with his lordship, they submitted the water 
 to such chemical tests as were then in use ; and, 
 satisfied of its virtues, urged their noble patient to 
 give it a trial. Acting upon this advice, his lord- 
 ship returned to Bridge House in the ensuing spring ; 
 remained there three months, drinking the water, 
 and aiding its effect by air and exercise ; and, at the 
 expiration of that term, he became a stouter, stronger, 
 healthier man than ever ; the best proof of which is, 
 
 * The following character of the country about Eridge House 
 is found in a letter from Lord Chancellor Burleigh to the Earl 
 of Shrewsbury, dated 10th Aug. 1573, before Tunbridge Wells 
 was known. The French ambassador was then with Queen Eliza- 
 beth at " Eridg, my L. of Burgeni's houss. — The Q. Ma*y hath 
 had a hard begyning of a progress in the Weld of Kent; and 
 namely in some of Sussex, wher suerly ar more wondeross rocks 
 and vallei/s, and much worss ground, than is in the Peek,'^ 
 
18 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 that he lived till the year 1666, and then died at the 
 age of eighty-jii'e. 
 
 His lordship was not slow in promulgating his 
 discovery,^' the effects of which were extensively pro- 
 moted by Lord Abergavenny, on the borders of whose 
 estate the water had its rise. His lordship ordered 
 the ground about the springs to be cleared from the 
 surrounding rubbish, and sent for an eminent natu- 
 ralist from London, with whose assistance he dis- 
 tinguished the two principal of seven several springs, 
 (for so many were at first discovered) ; and over these 
 his lordship ordered wells to be sunk, a stone pave- 
 
 * III 1645, his lordship published a folio volume of Essays, 
 intituled, " A Forest of Varieties,'^ in three Parts ; a second 
 edition of which appears to have been produced in 1659, under 
 the altered title of " A Forest Promiscuous of several Seasons' 
 Productions,'' in four Parts. In a marginal note, his lordship 
 remarks, — " The use of Tunbridge and Epsom waters, for health 
 and cure, I first made known to London and the king's people. 
 The Spaw is a chargeable and inconvenient journey to sick bodies, 
 besides the money it carries out of the kingdom, and inconve- 
 nience to religion. — Much more I could say, but I rather hint 
 than handle — rather open a door to a large prospect than give 
 it.'' Vide " Memoirs of the Peers of England during the Reign 
 of James the First," by Sir Egerton Brydges, vol. i. p. 357; and 
 Lord Orford's " Royal and Noble Authors,'* vol. iii. p. 81, edit. 
 1806. Of this dissipated, but fanatical nobleman, some curious 
 particulars are given in the two works just referred to. Walpole 
 thus characterises his writings: — "The prose, which is affected 
 and obscure, with many quotations and allusions to Scripture and 
 the classics, consists of essays, letters, characters, in the manner of 
 Sir Thomas Overbury, and devout meditations on his misfortunes. 
 The verse, though not very poetical, is written with the genteel ease ! 
 of a man of quality." 
 
CHARLES THE FIRST's QUEEN. 19 
 
 ment to be laid round, and the whole to be enclosed 
 with wooden rails, in a triangular form/''^ 
 
 Kilburne, in 1650, thus speaks of the wells in 
 the parish of Speldhurst. In this parish," he says, 
 are those famous waters (called by some Fant 
 WelleSy and by others Tunhridge Welles) so much 
 resorted unto, and drunk of by the nobility and 
 gentry of this nation ; coming thither for that pur- 
 pose from several parts yearly in the summer, and 
 more especially in the months of July and August." f 
 It was not until after the lapse of thirty years from 
 the discovery of the springs, that any material im- 
 provements were effected in their immediate vicinity. 
 A new impetus to their fame was given in 1630, by the 
 arrival of Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I., 
 who was sent to the Wells by her physicians for the 
 re-establishment of her health, after the birth of her 
 son, Prince Charles. For about six weeks her majesty 
 remained encamped on Bishop's Down, a part of 
 which had been cleared for her reception ; and, as 
 
 * Vide " History of Turibridge Wells/' by Thomas Benge 
 Burr. 1766. Watts, in Bibliotheca Britannica/' has the follow- 
 ing strange and silly remark on this volume : — " It is a work of 
 considerable merit, though written by a journeyman bookseller.'* 
 What was Shakspeare? what was Dr. Johnson ? what were many 
 of Dr. Watts's learned and justly eminent countrymen, in their 
 early career? Burr, speaking of the age in which he lived, said, it 
 " abounded with authors of every rank, sex, and profession and 
 therefore justifies himself for taking up his pen to write the history 
 of his native place, to be " of some little service to his friends and 
 acquaintance." 
 
 t " Topographic of Kent," 4to, 1650, p. 254. 
 
20 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 in the days of her prosperity, she was fond of masks, 
 dancing, &c., she encouraged the same at this place, 
 and thus imparted great gaiety to the scene. 
 
 Dr. Rowzee, in his treatise on these mineral 
 waters, endeavoured to perpetuate the memory of 
 her majesty's visit, by calling them The Queen's 
 Welles ; ^' but the appellation seems not to have been 
 long continued.^ 
 
 The first buildings erected in the immediate vici- 
 nity of the springs (about the year 1636) were two 
 small houses, or rather cottages. One of these was 
 appropriated to the use of the ladies in the other, 
 termed the Pipe Office, — for §igars were then un- 
 known in the fashionable world, — the gentlemen 
 
 * The learned Doctor's short dissertation may be regarded a 
 curiosity, not only from local relation, but as illustrative of the 
 literary, scientific, and physiological character of the age. It is 
 a small 18mo volume of 79 pages, dated 1670, and " imprinted at 
 the Turk's Head, in Bishop-gate Street." Lodwick Rowzee, 
 Dr. of Physic, practising at Ashford in Kent," gives us a chapter 
 on " water in general," quoting Hesiod, Thales, Empedocles, 
 Hypocrates, Scaliger, &c. ; another on " the differences of water," 
 referring to Genesis, the Psalms, and other parts of the sacred 
 writings. He highly panegyrises the waters of the Wells, and 
 shews that they are calculated, with his good advice, " by the 
 grace of God," and physic, to cure almost every disease to which 
 the body is subject. He recommends the patient to begin by 
 drinking 10 or 12 ounces in the morning, about an hour after 
 sunrise, and he may increase his dose to 200 ounces per day!! 
 Towards the end of the book, we find that the Doctor " likes the 
 place;" and says, if company continues to resort to the water, 
 he will be there every summer," with " variety of physic," and 
 his " best counsel." 
 
DR. ROWZEE. 21 
 
 were accustomed to assemble, and smoke, and chat 
 over a cup of coffee, after they had paid their devoirs 
 to the goddess of the fount. For the accommodation 
 thus afforded, the usual subscription for the season 
 was half-a-crown. Dr. Rowzee says, divers do 
 take tobacco after their water, which I do not dis- 
 like, especially if they hold it a good while in their 
 mouthes before they puffe it out." 
 
 About the year 1638, a fine 'level green bank^ 
 afterwards paved, and called the Upper Walk/' 
 was raised, and a double row of trees was planted 
 on its borders. Under these trees the trades-people 
 generally took their morning stand, to dispose of 
 their different wares during the hours of water- 
 drinking. Speculation now started into life ; and, for 
 the accommodation of the yearly-increasing influx of 
 company, a few houses — the majority of them small 
 and inconvenient — were built at Southborough and 
 at Rusthall."^ The spirit of improvement experi- 
 enced a lamentable check from the commotions to 
 which the kingdom was subjected during the next 
 ten or fifteen years ; but no sooner did the violence 
 of the storm begin to subside, than the people re- 
 verted to their customary pursuits and pleasures, and 
 the Wells were again resorted to with greater avidity 
 than before. In a short time, an assembly-room, a 
 bowling-green, and other places of amusement, were 
 
 * Rust-hall, about a mile n.w. from the Wells, was so denomi- 
 nated from its ancient proprietors, named Rust, one of whom was 
 mayor of Faversham in the time of Henry VI. 
 
22 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 established at Rusthall; and at Southborough, too, 
 there was a bowling-green, a coffee-house, and many 
 houses, of a superior description, for lodgings.^ Still, 
 the distance from those places to the Wells was too 
 great ; especially as, in unfavourable weather, there 
 was no shelter for the water-drinkers — no appro- 
 priate building in which they could take their requi- 
 site exercise. 
 
 The genius of England is not republican. It 
 w^orships at the altar, it bows to the throne, it flou- 
 rishes under the sway of a favourite monarch. At 
 length the Restoration of Charles II. imparted a 
 new spirit to the nation ; and the Wells participated 
 largely in the gaieties of the new era. In 1664, it 
 was honoured with another royal visit— that of the 
 king, with his queen, Katharine (just recovered from 
 a dangerous fever), and their gay and dissipated 
 court ; but there were no houses at the Wells capable 
 of affording them suitable accommodation. Such 
 at least is the tradition, which records that the 
 
 * Parly-faction is ever violent and narrow-minded. In the 
 present day, there are many towns in England in which Whigs 
 will not deal with Tories, Reformers with Anti-reformers ; and we 
 find that, previously to the grand rebellion, and for years after- 
 wards, the Royalists were accustomed to take up their abode at 
 Southborough, and the Roundheads at Rusthall; each party fear- 
 ing, it is presumed, that it might be contaminated by an approach 
 to the other. The Presbyterians were desirous of erecting a chapel 
 at Rusthall ; but, though the place was chiefly supported by that 
 sect, the landlord refused to sell them a plot of land for the purpose, 
 even at an extravagant price. 
 
COUNT GRAMMONT. 
 
 23 
 
 court took up their residence chiefly at two houses 
 at Southborough ; whilst others were accommodated 
 at Summer Hill, then the property and residence of 
 Lord Muskerry." The royal sojourn lasted about 
 two months ; and, from the graphic record of it in 
 Grammont's ^' Memoirs/' the reader may form a 
 tolerably correct idea of its appearance, natural attrac- 
 tions, and gay and varied amusements.^' 
 
 * The following account, from the celebrated, but frivolous 
 and demoralising, writings of the Count, will serve to characterise 
 the author and the place : — 
 
 " Tunbridge is the same distance from London that Fontain- 
 bleau is from Paris, and is, at the season, the general rendezvous 
 of all the gay and handsome of both sexes. The company, though 
 always numerous, is always select, since those who repair thither 
 for diversion ever exceed the number of those who go thither for 
 health. Every thing there breathes mirth and pleasure — constraint 
 is banished, familiarity is established upon the first acquaintance, 
 and joy and pleasure are the sole sovereigns of the place. The 
 company are accommodated with lodgings in little clean and con- 
 venient habitations, that lie straggling and separated from each 
 other, a mile and a half all round the Wells, where the company 
 meet in the morning. This place consists of a long walk, shaded 
 by pleasant trees, under which they walk while they are drinking 
 the waters. On one side of this walk is a long row of shops, 
 plentifully stocked with all manner of toys, lace, gloves, stockings ; 
 and where there is raffling, as at Paris in the Foire de Saint Ger- 
 main. On the other side of the walk is the market; and as it is 
 the custom here for every person to buy their own provisions, care 
 is taken that nothing appears offensive upon the stalls. Here, 
 young, fair, fresh-coloured country girls, with clean linen, small 
 straw hats, and neat shoes and stockings, sell game, vegetables, 
 flowers, and fruit. Here one lives as one pleases. Here is like- 
 wise deep play, and no want of amorous intrigues. As soon as 
 the evening comes, every one quits his little palace to assemble on 
 
TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Lord Muskerry^ made several improvements at 
 the Wells for the accommodation of the visiters, and 
 built a hall, or room, for the dippers. The assembly- 
 room was brought home from Rusthall to Mount 
 Ephraim, on which a bowling-green was enclosed, 
 a tavern was opened, and many lodging-houses were 
 erected.'' 
 
 In a few years, we find Tunbridge forsaken, 
 Southborough and Rusthall rased and ruined. Mount 
 Ephraim drooping, and Mount Sion in the full bloom 
 of prosperity. This last, indeed, not only rivalled, but 
 despoiled her predecessors, and triumphantly trans- 
 ferred their ornaments to herself ; for many houses 
 were brought from Southborough, Rusthall, and 
 Mount Ephraim, to be rebuilt on Mount Sion ; and 
 some, whole and entire as they were, were wheeled on 
 sledges, to be fixed in this new seat of favour." f 
 
 The following passage from Evelyn's Memoirs," 
 
 the bowling-green, where, in the open air, those who choose, dance 
 upon a turf, more soft and smooth than the finest carpet in the 
 world. 
 
 * Lord Muskerry was killed in the following year (1665) in 
 the great naval action with the Dutch admiral, Opdam, in South- 
 wold Bay. His lordship*s family arms, placed in the arch of the 
 gateway leading to the springs, were pulled down during the pro- 
 gress of a law-suit, which commenced about sixty years after- 
 wards, between the lord of the manor and the tenants ; and the 
 arch itself was taken down when the Wells were repaired, in 1743 
 or 1744. The arms, however, are still to be seen at the assembly- 
 room, on the parade, where they were fixed by the tenants, in 
 memory of their triumph. 
 
 f Burr's History of Tunbridge Wells,'' p. 45. 
 
SIR JOHN Evelyn's memoirs. 
 
 25 
 
 vol. i. p. 266, 4to, of the date June 11, 1652, is at 
 once allusive to this place, the character of the times, 
 and the vain garrulity of the journalist : — 
 
 " My wife being discomposed by having been so long at sea, 
 we set not forth towards home till the 14th; when hearing the 
 small-pox was very rife in and about London, and Lady Browne 
 having a desire to drink Tunbridge-waters, I carried them thither, 
 and staied in a very sweete place, private and refreshing, and 
 tooke the waters myself till the 23d, when I went (to London) to 
 prepare for their reception, leaving them for the present in their little 
 cottage by the Wells. The weather being hot, and having sent 
 my man on before, I rod negligently under favor of the shade, 
 till, within three miles of Bromley, at a place call'd the Procession 
 Oake, two cut-throates started out, and striking with long staves 
 at y^ horse, and taking hold of the reines, threw me down, tooke 
 my sword, and haled me into a deepe thickett, some quarter of 
 a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob me, as 
 they soone did. What they got of money was not considerable; 
 but they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the 
 other an onyx, and a pair of buckles, set with rubies and diamonds, 
 which were of value; and, after all, bound my hands behind me, 
 and my feete, having before pull'd off my bootes. They then set 
 me up against a oake, with most bloudy threats, to cutt my throat 
 if I offered to cry out, or make any noise, for they should be 
 within hearing, I not being the person they looked for. I told 
 them, if they had not basely surprized me they should not 
 have had so easy a prize ; and that it would teach me never to 
 ride neere an hedge, since, had I ben in the mid -way, they durst 
 not have adventured on me ; at which they cocked their pistols, 
 and told me they had long guns too, and were 14 companions. 
 I begged for my onyx; and told them, it being engraven with 
 my armes would betray them ; but nothing prevailed. My horse's 
 bridle they slip't, and searched the saddle, which they pulled 
 off, but let the horse graze; and then turning again, bridled him, 
 and tied him to a tree, yet so that he might graze, and thus 
 left me bound. My horse was perhaps not taken, because he 
 was marked and cropt on both eares, and well known on that 
 
 C 
 
2g TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 roade. Left in this manner, grieviously was I tormented with 
 flies, ants, and the sunn ; nor was my anxiety little how I should 
 get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither heare, or 
 see any creature but my poore horse, and a few sheep stragling 
 in the copse. After neare 2 houres attempting, I got my hands to 
 turn palm to palm, having been tied back to back ; and then it 
 was long before I could slip the cord over my wrists to my thumb, 
 w^hich at last I did, and then soone unbound my feet, and 
 sadling my horse, and roaming awhile about, I at last perceived 
 dust to rise, and soone after heard the ratling of a cart, towards 
 which I made, and by the help of two countrymen I got back 
 into the highway. I rode to Coll. Blounf s, a greate justiciare 
 of the times, who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next 
 morning, sore as my wrists and armes were, I went to London, 
 and got 500 tickets printed and dispersed by an officer of Gold- 
 smith's Hall, and within 2 daies had tidings of all I had lost, 
 except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and some trifles. The 
 rogues had pawned one of my rings for a trifle to a goldsmith's 
 servant before the tickets came to the shop, by which means they 
 scap'd : the other ring was bought by a victuallor, who brought it 
 to a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket seized the man. 
 I afterwards discharged him, on his protestation of innocence. 
 Thus did God deliver me from these villains, and not onely so, 
 but restored what they tooke, as twice before he had graciously 
 don, both at sea and land ; I mean when I had been rob'd by 
 pyrates, and was in danger of a considerable losse at Amsterdam ; 
 for which, and many, many signal preservations, I am extreamely 
 obliged to give thanks to God my Savior.'' One of the robbers 
 was afterwards taken, " and, refusing to plead, was pressed to 
 death." 
 
 Again, in Aug. 1661, the worthy gossipping and Bobadil knight 
 — " went again to Tunbridge Wells, my wife being there for the 
 benefit of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greately 
 admired at the extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of 
 certaine birch trees among the rocks." 
 
 In 1670, the Duke and Duchess of York, and 
 their two daughters, the Princesses Mary and Anne, 
 
GEOLOGY — HIGH ROCKS. 
 
 m 
 
 were at the Wells ; and, as his royal highness was 
 much delighted with the " High Rocksj' which he 
 frequently visited, a small house, or rustic shed, was 
 built there, and it became fashionable for the com- 
 pany to assemble and have entertainments amongst 
 those picturesque masses of stone. 
 
 Geologically considered, the characteristic feature 
 of the country is sand-stone ; large masses of which 
 are frequently seen of imposing magnitude, grouped 
 in wild, irregular, and fantastic forms : the effect 
 of these is greatly heightened by the sombre hue 
 acquired from the exposure of their surface to the 
 air ; also by the heaths, of great variety and beauty, 
 the forest shrubs, and the rock plants, that start 
 from their fissures, fantastically entwine themselves 
 amongst the stones, and seem to grow out of, but 
 cling to, their sterile parents. 
 
 Of these prominences, which have ever ranked 
 amongst the chief natural beauties of Tunbridge 
 Wells, there are three principal aggregations in its 
 vicinity : the High Rocks, so denominated from their 
 superior elevation, ranging from forty to seventy feet 
 in height, about a mile and a half westward ; 
 Harrison's Rocks, and Penn's Rocks, named after 
 the proprietors of the adjacent lands; the former 
 about five, the latter six miles from the Wells, on 
 the Brighton road. There are other masses of these 
 rocks, rising above the surface-soil, on the commons, 
 at the Wells, and Rusthall, and also in several 
 other places. Some of the blocks assume fantastic 
 
28 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 and grotesque forms ; and one of them, at Rusthall, 
 has long borne the name of the Toad Rocky from a 
 supposed resemblance to a monstrous toad. In the 
 forest, a little west of the High Rocks, is a spring, 
 called Adam's Welly noted for the transparency of 
 its water, and for its efficacy in some cutaneous 
 diseases. 
 
 About the year 1676, the annual increase of com- 
 pany resorting to the Wells, induced the lord of the 
 manor to erect shops and houses on and near the 
 walks. He accordingly entered into an agreement 
 with his tenants, and hired the herbage of the manor 
 on a fifty years' lease, at ten shillings per annum 
 each tenant, and then began to build upon the green 
 bank, and in every other convenient situation near the 
 springs." At that time there was no place of reli- 
 gious worship at the Wells ; but a chapel was erected 
 from a subscription, raised between the years 1676 
 and 1684. The sum of 1385/. was raised. Various 
 landholders in the neighbourhood contributed tim- 
 ber ; Lady Purbeck, of Summer Hill, gave land. 
 When finished, it was found to be too small ; and, 
 900Z. additional having been produced by a second 
 subscription, it was much enlarged and beautified. -f* 
 
 Hasted, in his History of Kent," J remarks of 
 
 * Burr's "History of Tunbridge Wells/' p. 51. 
 
 t Vide Burr's " History of Tunbridge Wells/' In Mr. Am- 
 sinck's work it is stated that the aggregate sum raised exceeded 
 3000/. 
 
 X Vol. iii.p. 276. 8vo, 1797. 
 
CHAPEL — SCHOOL. 
 
 29 
 
 this chapel, which was impiously dedicated to King 
 Charles the Martyr, thus making the dead monarch 
 a protestant saint, that it stands in three parishes, 
 and two counties ; the pulpit being in Speldhurst, 
 the altar in Tunbridge, and the vestry in Frant ; 
 and, he adds, the stream also, which parted the 
 counties of Kent and Sussex, formerly ran under- 
 neath it, but is now turned to a greater distance." 
 This is not correct : the chapel is wholly in the 
 parish of Tunbridge, and is so described in the deed 
 of trust, confirmed by John, Earl of Buckingham, 
 the son of Lady Purbeck, in 1703. 
 
 Casual bequests, and money collected after a ser- 
 mon preached in the course of the season, supply 
 the principal funds for the support and repairs of 
 the building.^ 
 
 As good frequently results from evil, so it occurred 
 at the Wells in 1687. By a fire which then broke 
 out at one end of the walk, the shops and other build- 
 ings lately erected on the green bank were entirely 
 
 * Adjoining the chapel is a School, supported chiefly by collec- 
 tions made from two charity sermons preached annually. Here, 
 fifty or more poor boys and girls are taught reading, writing, and 
 arithmetic ; and through the benefaction of William Strong, Esq. 
 every alternate year one boy is clothed and apprenticed to the sea 
 service. For this purpose, with a similar advantage to the great 
 school of Tunbridge, Mr. Strong, in 1713, bequeathed the annual 
 rents of two small farms. The surplus, should any remain, — as, 
 from the increased value of land, it may be presumed there does, 
 — is lent, on proper security, to some deserving young man, edu- 
 cated at the school, for five years, without interest. 
 
30 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 consumed ; but others, and better buildings, were 
 speedily raised on their sites. An assembly-room, 
 coffee-houses, shops, and dwelling-houses, were erected 
 in one continued line ; and a convenient colonnade or 
 piazza was placed in front, and carried on from the 
 upper end of the parade down to the spring or well, 
 a distance of 525 feet. 
 
 In 1688, the memorable year of the Revolution, 
 the Princess Anne of Denmark visited and resided 
 some time at the Wells. In 1696, she presented a 
 basin of Portland stone for the spring, afterwards 
 called the Queen^s Well;^ and, in 1698, she gave 
 lOOZ. for the beneficial purpose of paving the walks. t 
 
 * This basin was replaced in 1 789 by one of marble, presented 
 by the lady of the manor ; and, as it was discovered that much 
 filth had accumulated beneath from exposure, a fixed cover was 
 added, to prevent a recurrence of the inconvenience. Prejudice, 
 however, conceived that, by this means, the water was deteriorated 
 in quality ; and, after much contention, the cover was removed, 
 and the basin was allowed to remain open as before. About 
 twenty-eight years since, Mrs. Shorey, the then lady of the manor, 
 erected the present house over the Wells, as a sort of pump-room. 
 As settled by Act of Parliament, the spring is constituted public 
 property. Females, called dippers, are stationed at the Well to 
 serve the water to persons who apply for it. These dippers are 
 appointed by the lord of the manor. It is usual for each person, 
 on commencing a course of the waters, to give a half-crown (called 
 the dippers^ "welcome penny ^'); and on leaving off, another fee 
 is generally given. 
 
 f The material adopted for the pavement was baked tile, and 
 the walks were henceforth called the Pantiles. Some years ago, 
 by means of a subscription amongst the inhabitants, they were re- 
 paved with stone, and are now denominated the Parade. 
 
OLD POETRY. 
 
 31 
 
 On the accession of this princess to the throne, the 
 inhabitants planted the Queen's Grove — a triple row 
 of birch-trees — on the common, " for a growing mo- 
 nument of gratitude to their royal and generous bene- 
 factress." 
 
 Amongst the poets or rhymers by whom the praises 
 of Tunbridge Wells have been sung, was one Peter 
 Causton — whose name, we apprehend, is unknown 
 to fame." He appears to have flourished," as the old 
 phrase goes, at the commencement of the eighteenth 
 century, the period at which we are now arrived ; 
 we have before us a Latin poem of his, of about 
 three hundred lines, bearing the imprint, Londini : 
 Anno M.DCC.ix." From this scarce, probably unique, 
 copy of Mr. Causton's Tunbrigialia," — a new and 
 enlarged edition," by the by — we select a brief pas- 
 sage or two for the gratification of the curious. 
 
 Having recovered his lost health by drinking the 
 waters, the poet returns thanks to the god of the 
 fountain, describes the market, abuses cards, eulogises 
 tobacco, sketches the amusements at Rusthall, &c., 
 and gives a general account of the mode in which 
 visitors pass their time. Thus, after an opening, 
 secundum artemy of one-and-twenty lines, the first 
 thirteen of which are devoted to an acrostic on his 
 own name, he comments on the morning of the 
 day: — 
 
 Mox ubi grata quies lassos reparaverit artus, 
 Et tristi pulsa caligine noctis opacse 
 Ostendat lucem rubicunda Aurora, comamque 
 
32 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Splendentem Pha'bus referens illuxerit orbi, 
 Ad Fontem lento gradimur pede ; taxa nec ignes 
 Obstant (procedo tabaco nam fortior hausto), 
 Confestim advolitat quae pocula porrigat ultro 
 Plena perennis aquae, quam fons sine munere donat, 
 Qualem nec Latium novit, nec Grsecia jactat : 
 Ilia beat siccos fcecunda stirpe parentes, 
 Deciduumque facit post funera vivere nomen : 
 Ilia domat Febres, et si male calculus haerens 
 Renibus aut peni languentia viscera torquet, 
 Ilia fugat, pellit curas, et nubila menti 
 Discutiens aptat doctis, sacratque Camcenis.^^ 
 
 And then, after expatiating on bile, fever, bowel, 
 stomach, heart, and brain complaints, — doctors, and 
 all the ills that flesh is heir to," — he passes to 
 pleasanter themes : — 
 
 " Hos inter calices, per amoenas arboris umbras 
 Hinc illinc patulos jactantis in aera crines 
 Usque vagor, possim ut gelidos tolerare liquores : 
 Migrasse hue jures Venerem, ISJymphasque Br it annas, 
 Mixh argentata splendentes corpora veste, 
 Captatum insolito juvenesque virosque nitore ; 
 Incessus stupeos verecundos, corporum honores, 
 Divinas facies, multo fulgentia colla 
 Auroque et gemmis, quae vel dedit India dives, 
 Vel cautus tulit Afrorum mercator ab oris. 
 Non aliter, Paride et Gram comitata puellis, 
 Tyndaris ad Phrygias fertur spatiata carinas. 
 Dumque vagi circumferimur, vel tibia melos 
 Grande sonat, fidibusve implentur moUibus aures ; 
 Harmonica ad chordas resonante per aera voce. 
 Usque Deus foveat, media inter pocula rit^ 
 Sacra Deo facimus ; quippe hie posuere sacellum 
 Nuper Hydropotae. Nec Hpernitur herha tahaccum^ 
 Ventitur infumum in select is adibus, arctis 
 Hausta tuhis, stomachi sedans accensa tumultusJ* 
 
LITIGATION. 
 
 33 
 
 Here we must desist ; for by this time the reader 
 must have had quantum stiff,, and will not be sorry 
 to return to plain English prose. 
 
 The lease^ referred to in a preceding page, be- 
 tween the lord of the manor and his tenants, expiring 
 about the year 1726, the latter, unable to obtain a 
 renewal, claimed compensation for the loss of their 
 herbage. A tedious and expensive law-suit followed ; 
 the result of which was, that the tenants were adjudged 
 to be entitled to a third part of the buildings which 
 had been erected. In pursuance of this judgment, 
 all the shops and houses on the manor were divided 
 into three equally apportioned lots, of which the 
 tenants were to draw one, and the other two were 
 to remain with the lord. Fortunately for the tenants, 
 they drew the middle lot, which included the as- 
 sembly-room, and which has proved the most advan- 
 tageous portion. The whole of this arrangement was 
 confirmed by an Act of Parliament in 1740, an im- 
 portant restricting clause in which declared it illegal 
 to erect any building on the common, or on any spot 
 where a building had not previously stood. This 
 salutary clause has tended to check encroachments 
 on the common ; though some persons have ventured 
 to raise buildings on it, in contravention of the 
 statute. 
 
 Hitherto, this attractive resort of fashion had 
 flourished" without any local laws, or specific re- 
 gulations ; but, in the early part of the last century, 
 it was found expedient to place its amusements under 
 
 c 2 
 
34 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 the control of the celebrated, or rather notorious, 
 Beau Nash, as master of the ceremonies. For years, 
 his dominion here, as at Bath, was absolute ; the 
 proudest of the aristocracy submitted to his wand ; 
 and in the seasons of his prosperity," it is recorded, 
 he would make his entrance to the Wells in his 
 chariot and six handsome grey horses, preceded by 
 two out-riders with French horns." A gentleman 
 by birth and education, gifted with an insinuating 
 address, with elegant and imposing manners, his 
 grand aim was to make every one live in public — 
 to render the scene one unceasing round of pleasure, 
 gaiety, and dissipation.^ 
 
 The manners of the place at this period (1748) 
 have been more piquantly described by Richardson, 
 the novelist, than they were in the reign of Charles 11. 
 by De Grammont ; and, in happy illustration of his 
 remarks, a drawing, from which the annexed print 
 has been copied, was found amongst his papers, 
 after his death, in 1761.f I had rather be in a 
 
 * Some account of the character of Nash, and of the customs, 
 &c. at Bath during his presidency over the amusements of that 
 city, may be found in the " History and Antiquities of Bath 
 Abbey,'' 8vo, 1825. 
 
 f Logan, or Loggariy who made the drawing, and whose 
 portrait is introduced, was a fan-painter, who, for some years, 
 kept a shop at the south end of the walks. He was an odd, 
 diminutive figure, but a sensible, honest, and ingenious man. 
 From his window he could view the company ; and he was in 
 the habit of delineating such remarkable characters as appeared 
 amongst the groups on his fans, so as to be immediately recognised 
 by their forms. He had been dwarf to the Prince and Princess 
 
RICHARDSON. 
 
 35 
 
 desert/' says he, in one of his letters to Miss West- 
 combe,^ than in a place so public and so giddy, 
 
 if I may call the place so from its frequenters.'^ 
 
 What, if I could inform you, that among scores 
 of belles, flutterers, triflers, who swim along these 
 walks, self-satisfied and pleased, and looking defi- 
 ances to men (and to modesty, I had like to have 
 said, for bashfulness seems to be considered as want 
 of breeding in all I see here), a pretty woman is 
 as rare as a black swan ; and when one such starts 
 up, she is nicknamed a Beauty, and old fellows and 
 
 young fellows are set a-spinning after her." If 
 
 you have not been at Tunbridge, you may never- 
 theless have heard, that here are a parcel of fellows, 
 mean traders, whom they call touters, and their 
 business, touting — riding out miles to meet coaches 
 and company coming hither, to beg their custom 
 while here."f 
 
 of Wales. His character, good sense, jokes, and repartees, were 
 long remembered at the Hot Wells, Bristol, where he afterwards 
 lived, and where he died much respected. 
 
 * Edited by Mrs. Barbauld, who furnished a very interesting 
 and discriminating Memoir of the writer to precede Richardson^s 
 Correspondence, which was published in six octavo volumes in 
 1804. The letter addressed to Miss Westcombe, from which we 
 have extracted the illustrations of our plate, &c. will be found in 
 the third volume, page 311. 
 
 f Touting, or Tooting, from the name of a village between 
 Epsom and Clapham. It is said, that the tradesmen who lived 
 at Epsom went to Tooting to meet and invite company. It has 
 also been asserted that touting was carried to such an excess in 
 the neighbourhood of Tunbridge Wells, that a butcher of die 
 
3« 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 In illustration of the annexed print, we give the 
 following transcript of the names and references an- 
 
 place travelled as far as Bromley to solicit customers ; and on one 
 occasion, thrusting his card into the carriage of a gentleman, was 
 taken for a highwayman. 
 
 In the time of Nash, a little deformed man (the Well's Cryer), 
 nicknamed Lord Rawlins, was remarkable for singing the Touting 
 Song, and for reciting some speeches relating to the place, taught 
 him by the famous Duke of Wharton, from whom he received 
 his mock dignity. His grace took him to London, ridiculously 
 but richly dressed, and introduced him to some of the fashionable 
 clubs. This honour deranged the weak intellects of the poor man, 
 who died in the parish workhouse in a state of madness. 
 
 A woman, named Sarah Porter, and distinguished by the title 
 of Queen of the Touters, was formerly well known at the Wells. 
 From the time when Nash arrived, till about the year 1739, he 
 was accustomed to take her to the public rooms to solicit sub- 
 scriptions ; and not a person of the least rank or credit would she 
 suffer to escape. Amongst persons of distinction, she pretended 
 to know their fathers, mothers, uncles, aunts, and every rela- 
 tive. She had a strong and equally convenient memory; could 
 recollect or forget whatever was for her interest ; used to stand at 
 the ball-room, and make thousands of curtsies in a day; had not 
 the least faith, or inclination to trust; and if any individual did 
 not immediately subscribe to her, she would take her book, pen, 
 and ink in her hand, and follow the party all round the room, 
 when it was full of company. Scolding, swearing, or any other 
 severity of treatment, was never known to put her out of humour, 
 or to induce incivility. She valued herself much upon her in- 
 trepidity ; and especially " from being descended in a direct line 
 from the English women in the time of the Danes, who cut all 
 their husbands' throats the first night of their marriage." A print 
 of this strange person was engraved from a painting of Vander- 
 Smissen, which is now very scarce. It represents her in a fine 
 brocaded gown, stomacher, mob-cap, and a large book, with the 
 names of many subscribers, and the amounts of their respective 
 subscriptions. 
 
CELEBRATED CHARACTERS. 
 
 37 
 
 nexed to the original drawing in the hand-writing 
 of Richardson : they indicate, in portrait, many of 
 the pubHc characters of the day, contemporary visit- 
 ants with the writer. 
 
 1. Woman of the Wells. 
 
 2. Loggan, the Artist. 
 
 3. Dr. JohnsoD. 
 
 4. Gilbert, Bp. of Salisbury. 
 
 5. Lord Harcourt. 
 
 6. Colley Gibber. 
 
 7. Garrick. 
 
 8. Mrs. Frasi, the Singer. 
 
 9. Beau Nash. 
 
 10. Miss Ghudleigh, afterwards 
 
 Duchess of Kingston. 
 
 11. Earl of Chatham. 
 
 12. The Speaker Onslow. 
 
 13. Lord Powis. 
 
 14. Duchess of Norfolk. 
 
 15. Miss Peggy Banks. 
 
 16. Lady Lincoln. 
 
 17. Mr. Lyttleton, afterwards 
 
 Lord Lyttleton. 
 
 18. The Baron, a German 
 
 Gamester. 
 
 19. Richardson. 
 
 20. Mrs. Onslow. 
 
 21. Mrs. Johnson. 
 
 22. Mr. Whiston. 
 
 Gibber, it will be observed, is the very picture 
 of an old beau, with laced hat and flowing peruke. 
 Dr. Johnson was at that time only in his fortieth 
 year, and less corpulent than he afterwards became : 
 his better half is at a sufficiently respectful distance. 
 Richardson himself is seen beneath the trees, evi- 
 dently avoiding the triflers. The most interesting 
 group is formed by Miss Ghudleigh (afterwards 
 Duchess of Kingston), between Beau Nash and Mr. 
 Pitt (Earl of Ghatham), each of whom is endeavour- 
 ing to obtain a side-long glance at the " sweet-tem- 
 pered'^ and " generally-admired" lady. 
 
 The print, it should be observed, represents the 
 upper or principal walk, with the assembly-room and 
 
38 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 post-office, the Tunbridge ware, milliners', and other 
 shops, — with a row of spreading trees on the oppo- 
 site side, shewn rather larger than they could have 
 been at the middle of the last century. The entire 
 .scene, the humble style of the shops, the wooden 
 portico and tiled roofs, the costume of the charac- 
 ters, with their high-heeled shoes, silken hose, court 
 hoops, embroidery, point ruffles, &c. form a striking 
 contrast between the fashions of the past and the 
 present age. 
 
 But we must yet indulge in some further illus- 
 trative passages from our friend Richardson : — 
 
 Miss Banks," says he, was the belle when 
 I came first down ; yet she had been so many seasons 
 here, that she obtained but a faint and languid atten- 
 tion; so that the smarts began to put her down in 
 their list of had-beens. New faces, my dear, are 
 more sought after than fine faces. A piece of instruc- 
 tion lies here — that women should not make even 
 their faces cheap. 
 
 Miss Chudleigh next was the triumphant toast ; 
 a lively, sweet-tempered, gay, self-admired, and not 
 altogether without reason, generally-admired lady — 
 she moved not without crowds after her. She smiled 
 at every one. Every one smiled before they saw her, 
 when they heard she was on the walk. She played, 
 she lost, she won — all with equal good-humour. 
 But, alas ! she went off*, before she was wished to go 
 off* : and then the fellows' hearts were almost broken 
 for a new beauty. 
 
MISS CHUDLEY. 
 
 39 
 
 Behold ! seasonably, the very day that she went 
 away, entered upon the walks Miss L., of Hackney ! 
 Miss Chudleigh was forgotten (who would wish for 
 so transient a dominion in the land of fickledom ?) — 
 And have you seen the new beauty ? And have you 
 seen Miss L. ? was all the inquiry from smart to 
 smartless. But she had not traversed the walks two 
 days, before she was found to want spirit and life. 
 Miss Chudleigh was remembered by those who wished 
 for the brilliant mistress, and scorned the wife-like 
 quality of sedateness ; and Miss L. is now seen with 
 a very silly fellow or two, walking backwards and 
 forwards unmolested, dwindled down from the new 
 beauty to a very pretty girl ; and perhaps glad to 
 come off so. For, upon my word, my dear, there 
 are very few pretty girls here. 
 
 But here, to change the scene, to see Mr. 
 W — sh, at eighty (Mr. Gibber calls him papa), and 
 Mr. Gibber, at seventy-seven, hunting after new faces ; 
 and thinking themselves happy if they can obtain 
 the notice and familiarity of a fine woman ! How 
 ridiculous ! 
 
 Mr. Gibber was over head and ears in love 
 with Miss Ghudleigh. Her admirers (such was his 
 happiness !) were not jealous of him ; but, pleased 
 with that wit in him which they had not, were 
 always for calling him to her. She said pretty things 
 — for she was Miss Ghudleigh. He said pretty 
 things — for he was Mr. Gibber \ and all the com- 
 pany, men and women, seemed to think they had 
 
40 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 an interest in what was said, and were half as well 
 pleased as if they had said the sprightly things them- 
 selves; and mighty well contented were they to be 
 second-hand repeaters of the pretty things. But once 
 I faced the laureate, squatted upon one of the benches, 
 with a face more wrinkled than ordinary with dis- 
 appointment. ' I thought,' said I, ^ you were of the 
 party at the tea-treats — Miss Chudleigh has gone 
 into the tea-room.' ' Pshaw !' said he, ' there is no 
 coming at her, she is so surrounded by the toupets ;' 
 and 1 left him upon the fret. But he was called to 
 soon after ; and in he flew, and his face shone again 
 and looked smooth. 
 
 Another extraordinary old man we have had 
 here, but of a very different turn — the noted Mr. 
 Whiston ; shewing eclipses, and explaining other 
 phenomena of the stars, and preaching the millen- 
 nium and anabaptism (for he is now, it seems, of 
 that persuasion) to gay people, who, if they have 
 white teeth, hear him with open mouths, though, 
 perhaps, shut hearts ; and after his lecture is over, 
 not a bit the wiser, run from him, the more eagerly 
 to C — r and W- — sh, and to flutter among the loud- 
 laughing young fellows upon the walks, like boys and 
 girls at a breaking-up." 
 
 The system introduced by the great arbiter of 
 public taste retained its local influence long after 
 the days of Richardson ; but, of late years, the gene- 
 rally improved state of society has imparted to the 
 manners of the place a subdued, but a more rational 
 
EMINENT VISITORS. 
 
 41 
 
 tone. Retaining its character for selectness and gen- 
 tility of company, Tunbridge Wells is now as much 
 distinguished by ease, and freedom from all undue 
 restraint, as it was, a century ago, by an attention to 
 idle ceremony and constrained, painful etiquette. 
 
 In more recent times, numerous eminent and 
 distinguished characters — statesmen and warriors, 
 lawyers and divines, men of science, scholars of every 
 class and grade — have resorted to Tunbridge Wells, 
 either as a permanent home or as a temporary re- 
 treat. Were the present volume a huge and splendid 
 folio, as was the fashion in the olden time," instead 
 of a humble vade mecum, what interest might be im- 
 parted to its pages, in biographical sketches, racy 
 anecdotes, and brilliant repartees, belonging to and 
 immediately connected with the frequenters of the 
 Wells ! but we can only mention a few names in 
 addition to those already specified. Lord North, 
 Colonel Barre, (both deprived of sight). Lord Mans- 
 field, Lord George Germaine, the Lord Chancellor 
 Rosslyn, Lord Sackville, the Duke of Leeds, Dr. 
 Moore (Archbishop of Canterbury), Dr. Moss (Bishop 
 of Bath and Wells), cum multis aliis. 
 
 Cumberland, the dramatist, not only resided for 
 some years, but wrote many of his works, at Tun- 
 ridge Wells."^ In his Memoirs," (vol. ii. p. 182), 
 
 * Richard Cumberland, Esq., born in 1732, was the son 
 of Dr. Denison Cumberland, Bishop of Clonfert (by Joanna, 
 daughter of Dr. Richard Bentley, Master of Trinity College, Cam- 
 bridge), and great grandson of the learned Dr. Richard Cumber- 
 
42 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 he says, I had tried the sea-coast and other places, 
 but in this climate only could my wife breathe with 
 
 land, Bishop of Peterborough. After a school education at Bury 
 and Westminster, he was entered of Trinity College, Cambridge, 
 where, in 1750, he obtained his bachelor^s degree. He was private 
 secretary to Lord Halifax, when that nobleman was Viceroy of 
 Ireland. On his return to England, he was made clerk of reports 
 in the office of trade and plantations, and afterwards was ap- 
 pointed secretary to that board. In 1780, he was sent on a 
 mission to Lisbon and Madrid ; but was recalled in the year 
 following — deprived of his situation at the board of trade — and 
 subjected to much vexation, inconvenience, and loss. 
 
 After the close, as it may be termed, of his public life, Mr. 
 Cumberland retired to Tunbridge Wells, where he resided many 
 years, till the death of his wife, when he removed to London, and 
 died there, on the 7th of May, 1811. 
 
 Cumberland possessed considerable literary talents ; but he 
 was a great egotist, and so extremely sensitive, that Garrick termed 
 him " the man without a skin,^' and Sheridan described or cari- 
 catured him as Sir Fretful Plagiary, in " The Critic.'^ He was a 
 kind-hearted, amiable, benevolent man ; yet so much of a courtier, 
 as frequently to incur the risk of being deemed a hypocrite. His 
 " Observer," a series of miscellaneous papers, deservedly ranks 
 high amongst the British classics. His novels of " Arundel," 
 " Henry," and " John de Lancaster,^' had " their day," but are 
 now nearly forgotten. Of his numerous dramas, the best are " The 
 West Indian," " The Jew," and " The Wheel of Fortune." The 
 second (and it is said also the third) of these was written at Tun- 
 bridge Wells. Young Bannister — Jack Bannister, as we were 
 wont to hear him called, though some time since he was announced 
 as " Old Mr, Bannister" — was the original Sheva; a benevolent 
 specimen of the Israelitish nation, contrasting curiously with Shak- 
 speare's Shylock. In the same character, Dowton, long a favourite 
 actor at Tunbridge Wells, subsequently made his debut on the 
 London boards. Long before Kotzebue's vicious and demoralising 
 play of " The Stranger" was known in this country, Cumberland 
 
RICHARD CUMBERLAND. 
 
 43 
 
 freedom, and experience repose.'^ Sir James Bland 
 Burgess, the coadjutor of Mr. Cumberland in The 
 Exodiad,'' also lived here, and was an officer in the 
 volunteer infantry of the place. ^ The Rev. Martin 
 Benson (still living) was forty-three years the esteemed 
 and revered minister of the chapel. f 
 
 had appropriated all its good, and rejected all its bad parts in his 
 " Wheel of Fortune/' They who have enjoyed the high intellec- 
 tual gratification of witnessing John Kemble's Penruddock in the 
 latter piece, will never forget the masterly, the finished, the exqui- 
 site effect of that performance. 
 
 Cumberland also wrote his " Calvary,'' an epic poem, con- 
 taining many passages of great beauty, at Tunbridge Wells ; like- 
 wise, in conjunction with Sir James Bland Burgess, " The 
 Exodiad.'' 
 
 Mr. Cumberland was a great lover of sacred music. Camis, 
 his valet, had a fine voice ; and many anthems were well sung 
 by him and a few other choristers at the chapel of the Wells. 
 Cricket was another of Cumberland's favourite amusements ; and 
 after the threatened invasion of England by Buonaparte, Mr. 
 Cumberland commanded the volunteer infantry of the Wells, and 
 found his office a very pleasant hobby. 
 
 * Sir James Bland Burgess was well known as the author 
 of " Richard Cceur de Lion,'' an epic poem, in the Spenserean 
 stanza, and other works. He lived next door to Mr. Cumberland, 
 at the Wells, and is thus characterised in the " Memoirs " of the 
 latter: — " He was always a studious man, and his knowledge is 
 very various : few men have read to better purpose, and fewer 
 still can boast a more retentive memory, or a happier faculty of 
 narrating what they remember." — Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 361. 
 
 -j- During the time Mr. Benson officiated at Tunbridge Wells, 
 his hearers were numerous and respectable. As a preacher, in 
 energetic and impressive eloquence he has rarely been surpassed. 
 Several of his sermons were published at the request of his con- 
 gregation, earnestly and respectfully expressed, and numerously 
 signed. On one occasion, he was solicited to repeat, on the follow- 
 
TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Amongst great and royal guests, who have occa- 
 sionally honoured the Wells, may be named the 
 beautiful, the amiable, the unfortunate Princess de 
 Lambolle, the Prince and Princess of Orange and 
 family, the late Duchess of York, the Princess Sophia, 
 the Duchess of Kent, and the amiable Princess Vic- 
 toria ; and, for many successive seasons, that muni- 
 ficent patron of literature, that zealous advocate of 
 public benevolence and universal philanthropy, the 
 Duke of Sussex. 
 
 Having thus laid before the reader a short review 
 of the rise and growth of Tunbridge Wells, it is in- 
 tended to devote another Sketch to individual fea- 
 tures and objects of the place. 
 
 ing Sunday, a discourse which he had delivered from the text, 
 " How old art thou?'^ — Pharaoh's question to Jacob. On leaving 
 Tunbridge Wells, a valuable piece of plate was presented to Mr. 
 Benson. His Farewell Address was published, and may be had 
 at the libraries. It is generally believed that Mr. Benson wrote 
 parts of Amsinck^s volume on " Tunbridge Wells and its Neigh- 
 bourhood.'^ 
 
CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES. 
 
 45 
 
 SKETCH II. 
 
 CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES AND OBJECTS OF THE OLDER PARTS 
 
 OF THE WELLS THE CALVERLEY PARK, AND OTHER MODERN 
 
 IMPROVEMENTS. 
 
 Having, in the preceding Sketch, indicated the 
 origin, growth, and such annals of the Wells as 
 seem to belong to local history, it will be the object 
 of the present to display, or at least point out, the 
 distinguishing characteristics of the place at the pre- 
 sent time. 
 
 The reader has already been presented with some 
 notices of the scenic character of this summer re- 
 treat — of this singular hamlet. It is proposed now 
 to delineate a few of those individual parts and 
 details which contradistinguish this from other 
 places of public resort. As already intimated. Tun- 
 bridge Wells originated in accident, and its aug- 
 mentation, up to a very recent time, seems to have 
 been rather accidental than the effect of any thing 
 like plan or design. The Well, or Spring, being a 
 sort of focus, was the nucleus for congregation and for 
 habitations ; but the projectors and builders of houses, 
 instead of adopting any regular systematic mode in 
 
46 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 placing them, were regardless of order, symmetry, 
 size, shape, or position. There are scarcely two houses 
 alike among the older buildings ; and though several 
 of them are ranged in a continued line or row, they 
 are of varied sizes, heights, and materials. These 
 are all occupied as shops, before which a covered 
 way or piazza projects. This serves equally for 
 shelter and for shade, and is, consequently, used as 
 a place of promenade. In front of it is a paved 
 walk of considerable width, bounded by a row of 
 large trees. (See plate, marked No. 4 in the list, 
 and the map.) In this row are the assembly-rooms^ 
 also the public libraries^ with reading-rooms, belong- 
 ing to Mr. Nash and Mr. Elliott ; likewise various 
 shops, among which are some entirely appropriated 
 to the articles of Tunbridge ware manufacture, which 
 are both numerous and beautiful. Formerly the 
 walks were called the Pantiles, from being paved 
 with red baked tiles or bricks. In 1793 these were 
 taken away, and the walk paved with Purbeck 
 stone. The whole length of the walk is 175 yards. 
 At one side is an orchestra, where a band of musi- 
 cians occasionally perform at certain hours in the 
 day during the summer season. 
 
 On lower ground, running parallel with the walks, 
 is the Sussex Hotel, a large, respectable, and imposing 
 pile of building, adjoining which is the theatre, a 
 convenient house, sufficiently spacious for the audi- 
 ence to see and hear players, and for the latter to 
 shew whether they possess the feeling and judgment 
 
THEATRE — PUMP-ROOM — DIPPERS . 
 
 47 
 
 to merit the title they assume.^ Near this spot is 
 a small market-place for butchers' meat, fish, poultry, 
 &c. On the stalls with the latter are seen, in the 
 summer season, numerous wheatears, a delicious, 
 small, fat bird, which frequents the downs, where 
 they are entrapped by the shepherds. At the northern 
 end of the walk is a house, with something of archi- 
 tectural pretension, from having pilasters, and an 
 entablature, and vases or urns on the coping. This 
 was built for a pump-roomy and intended to accom- 
 modate the company, as at Bath and some other 
 places. The company, the springs, and the dippers,f 
 are, however, all exposed to the light and air of 
 heaven — to the fluctuations of our ever- changing 
 seasons ; for the pump-room has been long occupied 
 as a shop, and its windows and even walls covered with 
 various articles for sale, spread abroad, and marked 
 ^' very cheap.'' % A narrow and inconvenient passage, 
 
 * At this theatre Mr. Dowton performed for some years, and 
 was here recognised by Mr. Cumberland, who introduced him to 
 the London stage, where he personified many characters with 
 distinguished success. His son, Mr. W. Dowton, has been 
 manager of this theatre, with others at Maidstone, Canterbury, and 
 Rochester, for some years. 
 
 f The dippers are elderly women, appointed by the lord of the 
 manor, to attend at the Well and supply visitors with the water, 
 which they dip from a large stone basin at the northern end of the 
 parade. These attendants expect a fee from every water-drinker, 
 as has been customary ; but by Act of Parliament the spring is 
 always open and free for the use and benefit of the public. 
 
 X Among the quackeries and impudent deceptions of the 
 present age, there are few more glaring and disgusting than those 
 
48 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 or alley, is the only thoroughfare from the north- 
 ern end of the walk to other parts of the Wells ; 
 and this small passage is often incommoded by 
 goods and chattels," placed outside the shop-doors. 
 Let it not be thought that I would be uncharitable 
 or unkind to the worthy tradesman w^ho labours 
 in his vocation." I would only restrain him in his 
 officious endeavours to seduce a few customers into 
 his shop, at the sacrifice of man's convenience and 
 o;eneral accommodation. Public roads and streets 
 belong to the public, and no one individual is justi- 
 fied in taking possession of any part of them to the 
 detriment of the community. In London, the Metro- 
 politan Paving Act" prohibits every tradesman from 
 occupying even one inch of the public pavement, 
 and in many other respects gives security to the 
 passenger against the nuisances and annoyances of 
 those knaves and fools, who are regardless of other 
 people's reasonable wants and wishes. An Act of 
 Parliament for the local government of " the Wells" 
 is much wanted. It would lead to many improve- 
 ments, and tend to benefit the resident tradesman 
 and gentleman, as well as gratify the visitor. 
 
 In the building called the pump-room are warm, 
 cold, shower, and vapour baths, with suitable dressing- 
 
 of certain advertising linen-drapers. Assuming a large partner- 
 ship company, with showy placards, announcing exceedingly low 
 prices, change of fashion, bankruptcy, quitting of business, &c. they 
 force a rapid sale, injure and almost ruin the respectable trades- 
 man, and create prejudice against all fair dealings. 
 
MOUNT SION. 
 
 49 
 
 rooms and other accommodations. At a short dis- 
 tance from this is the chapel^ a large, irregular, and 
 tasteless mass of brick building, in a low situation, 
 and placed at the junction of two brooks, and two 
 counties. Near it a road, called Neville Street, 
 branches off to Frant and other places to the south. 
 Cumberland Terrace, a row of respectable lodging- 
 houses on the side of the hill, derived its name from 
 having been a favourite walk of the Duke and Duchess 
 of Cumberland during their sojourn here. 
 
 The eastern part of the Wells, called Mount Sion, 
 as indicated on the map, contains several houses, 
 scattered over the slope of a hill and on the higher 
 parts of it. Burr (in his History, p. 103) describes 
 these houses as built in regular confusion; and so 
 beautifully intermixed with trees and groves, that 
 they cannot fail of having a pleasing effect on a 
 stranger. At a little distance it bears the appear- 
 ance of a town in the midst of woods, and conveys 
 to the imagination the soothing idea of a rural, ro- 
 mantic retirement, while it actually affords all the 
 conveniences of a city life." Many of the residences 
 are large, and were formerly occupied by noblemen 
 and persons of distinction : hence they obtained the 
 names of Bolton House, Oldenburgh House, Welling- 
 ton Place, Bedford Place, Northumberland House, 
 Cumberland House, &c. In one of these dwellings, 
 Mr. Cumberland tells us in his Memoirs," that 
 he resided more than twenty years, cultivating a 
 plot of garden-ground, embowered with trees, and 
 
so 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 amply sufficient for a profusion of flowers, which my 
 old servant Thomas Camis nursed and took delight 
 in. Whilst I lived in town, I had hardly ever 
 passed a year without a long and dangerous fever ; 
 but in tins salubrious climate I never experienced so 
 much indisposition as to confine me to my bed, even 
 for a single hour." What a contrast ! What an 
 encomium on the Wells, and condemnatory philip- 
 pic on London ! The same author's anecdotes and 
 comments on the characters of Lord Mansfield, Lord 
 North, the Duke of Leeds, Lord Primate Robinson, 
 Lord Chancellor Rosslyn, Archbishop Moore, Bishop 
 Moss, Col. Barre, Lord Sackville, Sir James Bland 
 Burgess, and of several other public persons, are re- 
 plete with interest. He says, I followed Lord Sack- 
 ville to his vault at Withyham, my lamented wife to 
 her grave in the church at Frant, and there also 
 I caused to be deposited the remains of Wm. Badock, 
 the husband of my second daughter, Sophia." The 
 next house to Mr. Cumberland was occupied by Sir 
 James Bland Burgess, an intimate friend of the 
 author of the Observer," &c., and in conjunction 
 with whom he wrote and published the Exodiad," 
 an epic poem of some length, which was much ap- 
 plauded by my good friend Dr. Drake, as well as 
 some other critics, but which, like many productions 
 of learning and genius, is lost in the overflowing 
 torrents of modern literary works.^ 
 
 * Among many local anecdotes appertaining to this part of the 
 Wells, we may select two or three from our old loquacious friend, 
 
THE GROVE — JUNIUS'S LETTERS. 
 
 51 
 
 Amidst the buildings on this part of the district 
 is a very fine clump of old trees, called The Grove, 
 which is a prominent, a public, and an important 
 object and feature. It comprises four acres of land, 
 which are wholly occupied by a grove or wood of 
 luxuriant aspect. The history of this property should 
 be reiterated in every account of Tunbridge Wells, 
 and of the county of Kent ; for the names and deeds 
 of public benefactors cannot be too often called into 
 popular notice to insure general gratitude. By a 
 deed, dated April 20, 1707, John, Duke of Buck- 
 inghamy assigned four acres of land, part of Inham's 
 and Waghorne Forest, to the charge of four trustees, 
 
 Cumberland. The celebrated Lord North, who is immortalised 
 in the political Letters of Junius,* resided for some time, in the 
 latter part of his life, in one of the Grove houses, and Colonel 
 Barre, his intrepid opponent, was a resident here at the same time. 
 Both were blind; but the ex-minister, subduing all feelings of 
 animosity and resentment against the old officer, facetiously re- 
 marked, that, " although no political antagonist had been more 
 bitter against him than Colonel Barre, yet there were no two 
 
 * The author or authors of these famed epistles, which created 
 for a length of time much curiosity and notoriety, and respecting 
 whom so much controversy has taken place, is or are still in the 
 shade. The letters have been ascribed to the Duke of Portland, 
 to Sir Philip Francis, to Lord Sackville, to Burke, to Horne Tooke, 
 to Lord George Germaine, &c. ; but if the names of Lord Shel- 
 burne, Dunning, and Barrfe, were declared to be the tria juncta 
 in uno who produced them, the truth would be nearer approached. 
 It would be no difficult task to trace many facts, sentiments, and 
 circumstances belonging to these letters, to Bowood, in Wiltshire, 
 and Shelburne House, in London. 
 
52 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 therein named, for the use and benefit of all the 
 inhabitants, lodgers, servants, &:c. of Tunbridge 
 Wells. Through this ground there were to be one 
 coach-road and two footways, and the whole planted 
 and preserved as a grove, or place for umbrageous 
 shade. In Dec. 1781 it was surveyed, and about 
 200 oaks" counted, some of which were reported 
 to contain four or five loads of timber." There 
 were ten large beech-trees, sixty small trees of lime 
 and sycamore, two fir, and two yew-trees. In 1782 
 twenty-six of these trees, said to be decaying, were 
 ordered to be cut down and sold. They netted 130/., 
 a part of which sum was expended for repairs and 
 improvements in the grove, and the remainder in- 
 
 persons in the world who would then be more happy to see each 
 other." One day, says Cumberland, " Lord North took my arm, 
 and asked me to conduct him to the parade, on the pantiles ; — 
 ' I have a general recollection of the way,^ he said ; * and if you 
 will make me understand the posts upon the foot-path, and the 
 steps about the chapel, I shall remember them in future/" 
 
 Of Mount Sion, the following ludicrous and irreverend story 
 is related: — A man, named Okill, an eccentric character, kept 
 a lodging-house on the hill, and was clerk of the chapel at the 
 Wells. Whenever his lodgings were empty, he gave out the 
 following stanza from the Psalm : 
 
 " Mount Sion is a pleasant place !" 
 
 This was certainly prostituting the sacred place to pun and job- 
 bing, of which the clergyman should have prevented a repetition. 
 Indeed, eccentricity of every kind should be excluded from 
 places of worship. Such blasphemous nonsense as the Irvingite 
 "gift of tongues" of the present time is an insult to every thing 
 like religion and common sense. 
 
CALVERLEY PARK. 
 
 53 
 
 vested in Bank stock for future purposes. Like 
 too many public trusts, this had been neglected, by 
 the decease of some of the trustees and indiffer- 
 ence of others. Disputes and litigation arose ; but 
 in 1782 four new trustees were appointed. These 
 were the Right Hon. Sir Richard Heron, Martin 
 Yorke, George Children, and Beversham Filmer, 
 Esqrs. 
 
 As indicated on the map, there are villas, lodging- 
 houses, and gardens dispersed around the grove. To 
 the east is a pleasant villa occupied by Dr. Yeats, 
 whilst to the south is another belonging to Dr. 
 Mayo. Between these, on the brow of an eminence, 
 are some large and respectable houses, called Grove 
 Hilly the fronts of which command views of the 
 Common, of Calverley Park, &c., whilst from the 
 windows in the rear the spectator looks over an 
 extended range of country to Frant, Crowborough, 
 and many other places. Near these houses is one 
 of the entrances to Calverley Parky called Farn- 
 borough Lodge, a view of which is given in the 
 accompanying print, and again in the map of Cal- 
 verley Park. This map displays the extent and 
 arrangement of the park, and of some adjacent 
 places ; also the situation of its roads and paths — 
 of its lodges and villas. The latter, as there indi- 
 cated, are detached houses, with lawns, gardens, 
 plantations, and offices to each ; and placed as they 
 are in the midst of a park, which is most pleas- 
 ingly disposed by nature and adorned by art, they 
 
54 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 must be delightful. Facing the south and south- 
 west, and having a most extensive tract of wild and 
 cultivated country within their command, they can- 
 not fail of being peculiarly cheerful, often very 
 fascinating. In designing and placing these houses, 
 the architect has evidently studied variety, but re- 
 strained his fancy to such simple forms and sizes 
 as seemed best adapted to an economical expendi- 
 ture. The villas hitherto built are rather suited for 
 families of moderate extent, than for large and ex- 
 pensive establishments. This may be inferred from 
 the plans and views of four of them, delineated on 
 the accompanying plate. There is, however, ample 
 space of ground and choice of sites for houses of 
 larger extent within the area of the park. A carriage- 
 road is conducted in a sweeping line through the 
 grounds ; and bordering the west, south, and north, 
 is a public turnpike-road. Two other lodges, called 
 Victoria and Keston^ are placed as other entrances, 
 and are represented on the map of the park. At 
 the western extremity of this park is a large pile 
 of building, called Calverley House, lately occupied 
 by the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria. 
 The lawn slopes gradually from the front of the 
 house to a small valley, in which is a piece of 
 water. It is described, in Sprange's Tunbridge 
 Wells Guide," 1786, as " a noble, modern brick 
 house, built in a genteel taste, in an extremely happy 
 situation." The Duke of Leeds resided in it for 
 several seasons. This elevated tract of land was 
 
// /: Siftu/Te/l del. 
 
<jJ Sketdie.i of Ttuibridac WeUs. 
 
 M.H.JJavics fculp. 
 
BASTON COTTAGE. 
 
 55 
 
 formerly called Mount Pleasant. As shewn on the 
 map, there is a piece of ground north-east of the 
 park, called Calverley Plain, which is laid out for 
 the erection of villas ; and connected with it is 
 a beautiful pleasure-garden, adorned with various 
 evergreens, flowers, &c. At one extremity of this 
 ground Mr. Decimus Burton has built a rustic cot- 
 tage for himself, a view of which is given on the 
 accompanying print, and an elevation of another 
 part of the house on the map of the Wells. Near it 
 is a rustic lodge, connected with a private gate en- 
 trance to Calverley Plain. A large piece of garden- 
 ground, walled in and well planted with all sorts 
 of young trees, shrubs, and flowers, adjoins this 
 lodge ; and in the immediate vicinity is a modern 
 Market-place — that essential appendant to all human 
 habitations. As this part of the Wells is undergoing 
 great improvements by modern houses, and prepara- 
 tions are made for others, and as it is nearly a mile 
 distant from the old market, a new one, as well 
 as shops, were required by the inhabitants. A new 
 hotel (the Camden) has been lately built. In this dis- 
 trict are respectable houses, occupied by Lady Louisa 
 Cadogan, and the Rev. Henry Woodgate, the mi- 
 nister of the new church. The latter edifice is a 
 conspicuous object from different parts of the Wells, 
 and from distant stations in the country to the west 
 and south-west. The accompanying three prints, 
 marked in the list, page vi. Nos. 5, 10, and 11, shew 
 the exterior features of this building, with conti- 
 
56 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 guous objects. No. 1 1 represents the east end, with 
 a group of three houses, called the Priory ; whilst 
 No. 10 is a view of the church from the south-west. 
 The print No. 5 is a distant view from the com- 
 mon, with a mass of sand rocks in the foreground. 
 South of the church, within an enclosed fence, is 
 the house and grounds of Dr. Thomson, having 
 a most cheerful and commanding aspect. Two rows 
 of new houses to the east of the church, called 
 Calverley Parade, and Calverley Terrace, have been 
 lately completed . The latter consists of four detached 
 double villas, each having its separate hall of en- 
 trance, &c. exterior of the ground-floor rooms. Cal- 
 verley Parade contains twelve houses. In the front 
 and rear of both these ranges are lawns, gardens, 
 and shrubberies, with carriage-drives in front. From 
 these buildings four roads diverge, east, west, north, 
 and south : the first to Calverley Park, and to 
 Woodsgate ; the second to the common, and to 
 Mount Ephraim ; the third to Culverden, and the 
 northern extremity of the Wells ; and the fourth to 
 the old part adjoining the Wells. 
 
 In adverting to the other parts of this place, I 
 claim the reader's attention, first, to its northern ex- 
 tremity (see the map), containing several houses of 
 various sizes and classes, some of which are large 
 and truly respectable. One of these, called Great 
 Culverden, has been recently finished, from the designs 
 of Mr. D. Burton, and executed by Messrs. W. and 
 L. Cubitt, for Jeddere Fisher, Esq. of Ealing Park, 
 
GREAT CULVERDEN. 
 
 57' 
 
 near London. This house is adorned with porticos 
 in front, and on one side, with bold cornices and 
 dressings to the windows, and is finished and fitted 
 up with all the domestic comforts, and even luxuries, 
 appertaining to an English gentleman's home. Seated 
 in a lawn, which declines to the west, it commands 
 a fine and diversified prospect. In a wild and ro- 
 mantic part of the grounds the proprietor has raised 
 a singular, fanciful cottage, having its lower apart- 
 ments hewn out of the sand-rock. Masses of rough 
 stone, taken from this bed, are piled on one another, 
 leaving a rough irregular surface. With its scenic 
 accompaniment, it forms a most picturesque object. 
 On another part of the grounds the same gentle- 
 man has raised a tower, on high land, overlooking 
 and commanding a most extensive and diversified 
 tract of country. A shaded walk of half a mile 
 through a fine wood, leads to this building. A 
 farm-house near it is in the midst of stone quar- 
 ries and excavations, which constitute a romantic 
 scene. 
 
 In Culverden Row is a chapel and a cemetery 
 belonging to the Dissenters, in what is termed the 
 Countess of Huntingdon's connexion. On the top 
 of the hill, near the turnpike-gate,"^ are two large 
 
 * The charges at the turnpike-gates around the Wells are 
 extravagantly and injudiciously high ; but with good economical 
 management, might be easily abated. For the short drive of 
 about six miles, to Penshurst, by one road, and the return by 
 another, the traveller will have to pay three high tolls. 
 
 d2 
 
58 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 ponds of water, near which is the villa of Hans 
 Busk, Esq. 
 
 By reference to the accompanying map of the 
 Wells, it will be seen that a succession of detached 
 houses, on Mount Ephraim, is continued to the 
 south of Culverden. This part of the Wells, says 
 Amsinck, has imperceptibly become a cluster of 
 country-houses, belonging to several respectable 
 families." They are finely seated on the brow of a 
 hill, with the open common in front, and the old 
 buildings around the Wells seen crouching in a narrow 
 valley below, whilst those of Mount Sion, Calverley, 
 &c. are dispersed over the shelving slopes of hills 
 at the opposite side of the valley. Beyond these 
 are seen a succession of eminences, covered with 
 wood and heath. But the varied and extensive 
 scenery they command from the back fronts, as 
 popularly called, renders this place peculiarly at- 
 tractive and delighting to the generality of persons 
 who can only occasionally exchange their abode from 
 the metropolitan close streets to the broad expanse of 
 rural scenery. 
 
 This was formerly considered the most fashion- 
 able, as it is, indeed, the oldest part of the Wells, 
 and was provided with the assembly-room, a bowling- 
 green, and taverns ; but it is now almost entirely 
 occupied by private houses for permanent residents, 
 and others devoted to lodgings. A large hotel has 
 recently been erected. At the western end of Mount 
 Ephraim is Mr. Fenner's manufactory of the Tun- 
 
LAWYERS — JUDGE JEFFRIES. 
 
 59 
 
 bridge-ware goods, where a great variety of very 
 beautiful articles are to be seen in the show-rooms, 
 and where the processes of turning, inlaying, polish- 
 ing, &c., may be examined by permission of the pro- 
 prietor. A house, now occupied by Wm. Congreve, 
 Esq., on Mount Ephraim, was, about a century back, 
 called the Castle Tavern, where a speaking-trumpet 
 was kept to call for hackney coaches, at the back of 
 the parade. Four or five of these were the number 
 then used ; now it is presumed there are fifty or 
 sixty carriages of different sorts kept for the purpose 
 of hire. A respectable, well-informed inhabitant of 
 the Wells asserts, that the contrast is much greater 
 respecting the number of legal gentlemen at this 
 time, compared with fifty years back. Then there 
 was only one lawyer, and no magistrate ; and the 
 former was considered poor — for clients were few, 
 and their charges generally low.^ 
 
 One of the houses on Mount Ephraim, adjoining 
 the Tunbridge-ware manufactory, formerly belonged 
 to^ Judge Jeffries, a jppian wiio,fe a &^^^ 
 infgm oup^in -4h^ aj^mai^-^tetet^i^ tfer^ruelty an4 
 H^«r^tiee fe manifestecl in presiding at the trial of* 
 K«ig-€harles The house was afterwards the pro- 
 
 * Happy would it be for England if her laws were less in 
 number, shorter and more rational in contents, and reformed in all 
 their surplusage and verbiage ! The Statutes at large consist of 
 such a mass of perplexing nonsense, that common sense and com- 
 mon honesty have but little chance of escape, if they once get en- 
 tangled in the complicated net of litigation. 
 
60 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 perty and residence of Sir Richard Heron^ Bart., 
 who greatly enlarged and improved it, by applying 
 many doors, floors, chimney-pieces, &c. to it, which 
 he had purchased from Sir Gregory Page Turner's 
 once splendid mansion on Blackheath. The ground 
 attached to this house, says Amsinck, is beautifully 
 varied, and the views towards Holmsdale and the 
 Kentish and Surrey hills are various and extensive." 
 Adjoining this is a respectable mansion, called the 
 Castle House, formerly belonging successively to Mrs. 
 Franeis Sheridan and Mrs. George Byng, mother 
 to Mr. Byng, one of the members for Middlesex. 
 It was occupied for some time by Mrs. Johnson, 
 sister of a bishop of Rochester of that name, who 
 frequently entertained the Lord Chancellor Mansfield 
 here as her guest. Of this distinguished person, and 
 of the respectable party which often assembled at 
 Mrs. Johnson's, some interesting characteristic anec- 
 dotes will be found in Cumberland's Memoirs." 
 Lord Mansfield possessed the admirable and enviable 
 faculty of making every person pleased with himself. 
 He delighted in the company of young people of 
 intellect, and was a constant frequenter of the public 
 rooms at this place, where he was generally sur- 
 rounded by persons of wit, talent, and vivacity. 
 
 If there is one character which super-eminently 
 interests in the decline of life, it is that of the great 
 statesman, who seems to retire from his busy station, 
 with a pure heart and an unruffled mind, to the 
 placid contemplation of his useful labours, and the 
 
MRS. BOONE. 
 
 61 
 
 self-satisfaction of an approving conscience." (Am- 
 sinck, p. 21.) Another house on Mount Ephraim 
 was built by Sir Edmund King, physician to King 
 Charles II., and whose frequent residence here pro- 
 bably attracted the court. It was afterwards the 
 property of Mrs. Boone, widow of Governor Boone, 
 a lady remarkable for religious eccentricity, blended 
 with considerable talents and moral courage. Though 
 attached to the Church of England, she promoted 
 every discordant sect, and encouraged the fabricator 
 of every novel creed, with religious enthusiasts, and 
 sectarians of all sorts. She gave shelter to the indi- 
 gent, and instruction to the ignorant ; she would feed 
 the hungry, and clothe the naked. In her drawing 
 or sitting-room were portraits of every known re- 
 former. Such representations of the past, mixing 
 with the odd and grotesque sectarians who visited 
 her abode — her own personal appearance, of a highly 
 rouged face, and a sort of sackcloth dress, with a 
 favourite monkey joining the party, rendered the 
 scene often ludicrous, sometimes disgusting. The 
 elegant and hospitable Mrs. Whittaker, who after- 
 wards possessed the house, was a palpable and 
 cheering contrast to her predecessor. She devoted 
 every Wednesday evening to social conversation 
 and cards ; and thus assembled together the intel- 
 ligence, the courteous feelings, the rational part of 
 society. Such are the lights and shades of charac- 
 ter — such the personages we meet with in life, to 
 
62 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 render its current smooth and cheerful, or rippled 
 and muddy. 
 
 Two other mansions, adjoining each other, were 
 erected about thirty years ago by Lord Viscount Boyne 
 and Sir George Buggin, Knt. A part of the common, 
 west of Mount Ephraim, is called Bishop's Down, 
 the northern border of which is adorned with some 
 detached mansions, having gardens and pleasure- 
 grounds ; one of which, called Bishop^ s Down Grove, 
 formerly belonging to Sir George Kelly, Knt.,"^ from 
 whose descendants it was purchased by Martin Yorke, 
 Esq., of whom Amsinck has recorded some high 
 testimonials of character ; as being among the first 
 of those who, by fixing permanently their residence 
 at the Wells, tended to give a new bias to the course 
 of society.'^ He resided above twenty-five years at 
 this place, improved his house, beautified his grounds, 
 and made his home a constant scene of friendly 
 intercourse and cheerful hospitality. He was the 
 perfect example of a country gentleman, formed on 
 the respectable stock of an active, brave, and honour- 
 able soldier/' (Amsinck, p. 19.) 
 
 A shaded lane, through which are some delightful 
 vistas, branches off* from Bishop's Down, near Ashburn- 
 ham House, towards Hurst Wood. The scenery here 
 
 * This gentleman was a physician of some eminence, who 
 settled and purchased considerable land here, about 100 years 
 back. He died in 1772, leaving his property vested in three 
 sisters, his co-heiresses. 
 
RUSTHALL COMMON. 
 
 63 
 
 is very romantic and wild ; and Mr. Robertson, the 
 proprietor of the wood, has placed several seats for 
 the accommodation of visitors. 
 
 On Rusthall Common, a short distance west of 
 Bishop's Down, the sojourner of the Wells will be 
 gratified with some bold and truly grotesque rock 
 scenery, with various views into the distant country. 
 Among the rocks on the northern side of the com- 
 mon, is one mass, the upper block of which so much 
 resembles a monstrous toad, that it is popularly 
 called the Toad Rock, The objects around, z. e. 
 broken ground, pig-sties, rude cottages, and small 
 enclosures, are calculated to remind the traveller 
 of scenery in parts of England very remote from 
 the metropolis. 
 
 The opposite side of the Common, to the south, pre- 
 sents a different scene. There a perpendicular ledge 
 of rocks terminates a piece of table-land, and thence 
 shelves abruptly into a narrow valley. Amongst 
 these rocks was formerly a famous cold hath. Near 
 this are some tea-gardens^ laid out by and belonging 
 to an industrious gardener, who provides his cus- 
 tomers with tea, home-made bread, fruits, &c. A 
 narrow lane, down a steep descent, leads to the 
 High Rocksy which have been already noticed, and 
 will be again adverted to. A turnpike-road to the 
 west conducts the traveller to the pleasant hamlet 
 of Langton Green. 
 
 Although Dr. Rowzee, Dr. Saunders, Dr. Scuda- 
 more, and Dr. Thomson, have published their opi- 
 
64 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 nions and comments on the properties and ingredients 
 of the Tunbridge Wells waters, there is ample scope 
 for learning and practical experience to add some- 
 thing to the present stock of information. It gives 
 me much pleasure, therefore, to lay before the reader 
 an original Essay, by a practical gentleman, who 
 has had long experience at the Wells ; and as it is 
 the Sketch of a Professor, I cheerfully yield it a 
 separate leaf in my portfolio. 
 
SKETCH III. 
 
 SOME GENERAL REMARKS ON THE DISEASES OBSERVED AT TUN- 
 BRIDGE wells; ON THE NATURE AND QUALITIES OF ITS 
 WATER, DOMESTIC AND MEDICINAL; AND ON THE TEMPERA- 
 TURE OF ITS ATMOSPHERE. BY G. D. YeaTS, M.D. F.R.S. 
 FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, &C. &C. 
 
 As that fashionable watering-place, Tunbridge Wells, 
 has long been remarkable for the salubrity of its air, 
 the beauty of its scenery, and, in many cases, for the 
 curative qualities of its mineral spring ; and as it is 
 yearly becoming a place of greater resort and of more 
 permanent residence, from the increase of general 
 population, and from the superior accommodation 
 and handsomeness of its additional buildings, it is 
 a matter of more than speculative curiosity to in- 
 quire, what is the nature of the diseases to which 
 it is best suited, at what periods of the year invalids 
 with particular diseases may visit it with advantage, 
 and also what conditions of the human constitution, 
 in a comparatively good state of health, may be bene- 
 fitted or injured by a residence at or near it. I have 
 been in the habit of coming to Tunbridge Wells in 
 my professional character during the summer months, 
 from 1815 to 1828. Since the spring of 1829, how- 
 ever, I have permanently resided at the place. I 
 have had frequent opportunities, during this long 
 
66 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 period, of noticing its habitudes, the local diseases of 
 the country, and the complaints with which people 
 are affected who come to this place to seek relief; 
 and the effects which the local peculiarities produce 
 upon persons in tolerably good health, have formed 
 some part of my inquiry. 
 
 The situation of the Well where the waters are 
 drank, with the line of buildings connected with it, 
 is in a dell, or glen, surrounded by hilly country ; 
 but the mountainous parts are not so high as to pro- 
 duce generally a very secure protection against the 
 cold winds from the north and east, which annually 
 prevail at particular periods. As in all hilly coun- 
 tries, there is a good deal of rain at times during 
 the year. About sixteen or twenty inches below the 
 surface of the soil, in almost all directions, there is 
 commonly a bed of marly clay, intermixed with a 
 good deal of sand. There is a slaty and a yellow 
 marl ; and it has been ascertained by Dr. Burton, 
 of St. Thomas's Hospital, that the former contains 
 about eighty-four or eighty-five per cent of sand — 
 the remainder clay, oxide of iron, a little lime, and 
 a minute portion of sulphur. The yellow marl con- 
 tains about eighty-five per cent sand — the remainder 
 clay, oxide of iron, and traces of lime. After showers 
 of rain, therefore, from this large proportion of sand, 
 the ground is almost immediately diy, as is con- 
 stantly witnessed in all directions, on the Common, 
 on Mount Ephraim, Mount Sion, and in Calverly 
 Park, rendering walking abroad agreeable and plea- 
 
SOIL, AIR. 
 
 67 
 
 sant. In long-continued and heavy rains, the surface 
 of the soil becomes of course more tenacious and 
 muddy, the water accumulating more rapidly than 
 it can pass away, from the admixture of aluminous 
 with the silicious ingredients of the under stratum. 
 This state of things, however, lasts but a very short 
 time after the rain has ceased. Fogs sometimes pre- 
 vail during the autumnal and winter months, chiefly 
 along the lowest part of the glen, towards the first 
 turnpike on the Uckfield road, but they are of no 
 long continuance ; and these fogs sometimes observe 
 a very defined line, rising up the hill on either side 
 to about the centre, leaving visible only the turret 
 of the chapel and the tops of the trees in the vale, 
 and then dispersing gradually with a waving motion, 
 like the undulation of the sea, as the sun advances 
 in the morning; — to a person on Mount Ephraim 
 at the time, this natural phenomenon presents a 
 beautiful spectacle. 
 
 By a comparative estimate of the atmospherical 
 temperature of Tunbridge Wells with that of other 
 places, as shewn in subsequent tables, it will be 
 found that the thermometrical difference is not so 
 great as has been generally believed. Moreover, 
 since the purchase of the Mount Pleasant property 
 by John Ward, Esq., and since the erection of nume- 
 rous buildings there, to the north and the east, and 
 in other directions, a diminution of cold has taken 
 place during the winter months, as far as sensation 
 can determine it ; for as no thermometrical registers 
 
68 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 were kept before these new buildings were erected, 
 we cannot make any comparative thermometrical 
 estimate of temperature of that time and the present ; 
 but as these newly built houses are becoming inha- 
 bited very rapidly, there can be little or no doubt 
 that Tunbridge Wells, as a winter residence for people 
 generally, and certain parts of it for particular per- 
 sons under constitutional peculiarities, will be as 
 desirable as most other places in England, especially 
 where an open and free circulation of air is required, 
 for the warmth of places is augmented by the increase 
 of houses and inhabitants. And if a local Act of 
 Parliament could be procured for paving, lighting, 
 watching, and for other parochial comforts, no place 
 in all England would be superior to this fascinating 
 spot, for health, comfort, and domestic sociableness 
 of every description : but if speculative builders, to 
 save ground, erect rows of connected, instead of de- 
 tached, houses, they will injure the beauties and com- 
 forts, and lessen the attractions and healthiness of the 
 place. 
 
 There is a peculiar balminess in the air of Tun- 
 bridge Wells, which is not easily described, but uni- 
 versal testimony affords unequivocal proof of the 
 gratifying sensations it produces ; and this feeling is 
 not merely a gratification of sense, for the air possesses 
 a directly stimulant and salubrious quality, which is 
 not only of itself a restorative under simple debility, 
 but, in many complaints, comes powerfully in aid of 
 medicines, when drugs may be necessary. Upon what 
 
AIR, HEATH. 
 
 69 
 
 this salutary peculiarity of the air of Tunbridge Wells 
 depends, it is difficult positively to say. Great as is 
 its purity — by purity, I mean its freedom from the 
 suspension or solution of noxious particles — the grate- 
 ful effects it creates are not derived from that source 
 alone ; for other places, the air of which is equally 
 exempt from injurious qualities, do not cause the same 
 sensations. I am inclined to believe that, in addi- 
 tion to its purity, it is also indebted for its salutary 
 influence to the actual presence, in suspension or 
 solution, of the effluvia or aroma from the plants, 
 particularly the broom and the heath on the exten- 
 sive downs of what is called the Forest, and on 
 Crowboro' Common,^' situated to the south and west 
 of Tunbridge Wells ; for it is from these points that 
 the breezes bring the grateful feelings alluded to. 
 Highly charged as the land all about Tunbridge 
 Wells is with iron, it is not unlikely that the air 
 may receive some quality from this mineral, which 
 we know possesses a very stimulant property, per- 
 haps arising from the iridescent pellicle upon the 
 surface of the water of most of the springs in the 
 country, and from the ferruginous precipitation on 
 the soil through which these springs pass ; in this 
 
 * Broom — Spartium scoparium of Linnaeus. Heath — Erica. 
 There is a species of the Erica, called Baccifera, or Empetrum. 
 Berry-bearing heath, or Crowberries ; hence, probably, Crowberry 
 Common, The heath cocks in the north feed much upon these 
 berries. The plant is dioicous, and grows upon the tops of wild 
 mountains, where the soil is peaty and full of bogs. 
 
70 
 
 TUOTRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 precipitate the iron is in a most minute state of 
 division, being a carbonate, which readily passes off 
 into the air, perhaps in the form of a hyper-carbonate 
 of iron ; in like manner as the particles of the 
 muriate of soda (common salt) are ascertained, from 
 experiments, to be contained in the air of the coast. 
 It is well known, too, that the respirable part of the 
 air, called oxygen, that which supports life and 
 flame, is found in equal quantity, in the same bulk 
 of air, on the Downs of Wiltshire* and in the centre 
 of the smoky town of Birmingham. How then is 
 it that the air of large cities is not found to be so 
 wholesome as in the open and campaign country, 
 seeing that it possesses, bulk for bulk, equal quan- 
 tities of the oxygenous, or vital principle ? The 
 question is easily solved. In large cities, the foul 
 impregnation which the air receives from the soot, 
 the smoke, the effluvia from different manufactories, 
 &c. &c. prevents the full salutary impression of the 
 oxygen upon the lungs, becoming injurious not only 
 in this negative way, but by the substitution of directly 
 noxious qualities. Hence it is that every body feels 
 a freer respiration immediately after a heavy shower 
 of rain in large towns, which beats down for'^a time 
 the accumulated unwholesome ingredients of the air. 
 The air of Tunbridge Wells has not only none of these 
 difficulties to contend with — being not extensive, at 
 a considerable distance from any large or manufac- 
 turing place, and the houses being built in such an 
 insulated way, as to insure a perfectly free circulation 
 
AIR, MALARIA. 
 
 71 
 
 of air — but, as I have suggested, is also actually im- 
 pregnated with salutary particles, which aid its purity, 
 and render it more beneficial to the constitution. 
 
 It has been ascertained, in the progress of the 
 Trigonometrical Survey, that Crowboro' Common, at 
 the Beacon, about seven miles south of Tunbridge 
 Wells, is 804 feet above the level of the sea at low 
 water. This height I have no doubt influences the 
 quality of the air blown from that quarter. It is 
 well known that all febrile infectious diseases abound 
 most, and generally take their origin, in low damp 
 situations, and that when intermittents and other 
 fevers are prevailing and proving destructive at the 
 bottom of mountains, inhabitants high up on their 
 sides often escape entirely : so strongly, indeed, is this 
 circumstance of locality marked, that persons in the 
 upper stories of a house are frequently free while 
 those below are attacked by infection. The people who 
 dwell in the Campagna di Roma, in Italy, are well 
 acquainted with this fact from fatal experience with 
 respect to malaria, and dwell as much as they can 
 on the higher grounds. It seems, then, that the 
 febrile poison is of a very ponderous quality, which 
 induced the late Dr. Beddoes to believe that the 
 infection of fever might be the carbonated and phos- 
 phorated hydrogen gases, as they are very heavy, and 
 are very common in low and marshy situations. 
 Whatever, therefore, the specific nature of febrile 
 infections may be, it is an established fact that they 
 are most prevalent in low grounds, and are readily 
 
72 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 wafted along comparatively level surfaces in an undi- 
 luted mass by the winds, — and wo be to the man 
 who first inspires them ! The pure air, then, blowing 
 from such a high surface, from the south and west, 
 comes to Tunbridge Wells uncontaminated by any 
 of those poisonous impregnations, which assists to 
 account for its salubrity and for the light and agree- 
 able feelings experienced from it. 
 
 The nature and medicinal qualities of its Mineral 
 Spring are well calculated to aid this very salubrious 
 property of the air, as it holds iron in solution in 
 its purest and simplest state of combination, that of 
 a carbonate, with very little other foreign ingredient, 
 and with a sufficient quantity of carbonic gas to 
 render it a grateful and wholesome stimulant to the 
 stomach. The water from this spring proves highly 
 beneficial in all cases of simple debility, and in such 
 debility as is complicated with sluggish movements in 
 the glandular system, where no inflammatory action or 
 serious obstructions exist ; for, to my repeated know- 
 ledge of the fact, dangerous errors have been com- 
 mitted upon this point in both sexes, by taking for 
 simple debility that which arises from, or is con- 
 nected with, a high derangement in the functions 
 or structure of some organ. There is not a more 
 fertile source of trouble to the profession, of suffering 
 to the patient, and of the discredit which at times 
 attaches to many very excellent remedies, than the 
 indiscriminate application of the same medicines to 
 the same sensations of different invalids. It is in this 
 
AIR — THE WATERS. 
 
 73 
 
 way that popular books of medicine often do great 
 harm. In like manner, too, some injudicious prac- 
 titioners, without discrimination, and perhaps half- 
 educated, bring odium upon the profession ; for it is 
 absolutely impossible, with the present state of our 
 know^ledge, even improved as it is, to lay down any 
 general rules applicable to cases of an apparently 
 very similar nature in the multifarious varieties of 
 the human constitution. The physician who does this 
 acts as dangerously and indiscreetly as the pilot who, 
 with the chart of one river, would steer his vessel up 
 another, similar in appearance, by the directions of 
 it ; for, infallibly, the patient in one instance, and the 
 vessel in the other, would be destroyed in the storm. 
 
 Knowing, then, the stimulating qualities of the air 
 of this place, and of its medicinal spring, I may state 
 generally what kinds of invalid constitutions would 
 be injured by them, especially by the latter. It is an 
 opinion which very commonly prevails, founded upon 
 correct facts, that the waters of the mineral spring 
 have a peculiarly salutary effect upon the uterine 
 system, and that the effect is a stimulant one ; and 
 hence it is that the number of visitors preponderate, 
 I believe, largely on the female side. But in pro- 
 portion as the powerful effect of these waters is 
 founded in fact, so is the danger great in indiscri- 
 minately resorting to their use. Many ladies come 
 to this place under feelings of considerable debility, 
 and with a sense of weight and weakness in the has 
 ventre. Referring these sensations to the uterus, 
 
 E 
 
74 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 which is correct, but which are erroneously attri- 
 buted to debihty only, they commence drinking the 
 waters. They find to their cost that they are wrong, 
 for the necessity of applying for medical aid is soon 
 apparent, when it is discovered that additional mis- 
 chief has been produced. I recollect at this moment 
 one lady who was confined to her sofa for months 
 in consequence of an injudicious proceeding of this 
 kind. The fact is, there is often a peculiar irrita- 
 bility of this organ (like what frequently occurs 
 in any other), accompanied by a preternatural tur- 
 gescence of its vessels, which renders the use of the 
 waters totally inadmissible, and at times dangerous. 
 To this description of females the air of this place 
 is very advantageous, as assisting a judicious atten- 
 tion to other matters. 
 
 There are some kinds of cough depending upon 
 tubercles in the lungs, in which the waters are posi- 
 tively injurious, and I have great doubt whether the 
 air of this place is well suited to such people ; but 
 as tubercular consumption is almost every where 
 fatal, I do not know that I ought to blame the air of 
 this place more than that of any other. Consump- 
 tion, however, is a disease of no unfrequent occurrence 
 in this district, and so are glandular obstructions, 
 particularly a swelling of the thyroid gland, pro- 
 ducing that enlargement on the throat called goitre. 
 How this disease is produced it is difficult to say ; 
 but there is one fact which is indisputable, viz. that 
 it prevails most in hilly countries, as in Derbyshire, 
 
GOITRE — GOUT — FEVERS. 
 
 75 
 
 &c., and very rarely in the plains. The Alps and 
 the Pyrenees are the fruitful sources of its production 
 in its most disgusting forms. During the seventeen 
 years I resided in Bedfordshire (which is a flat coun- 
 try), ten of which I was sole physician to the County 
 Infirmary, this complaint was very rare. I must 
 observe, that it is among the lower ranks I have 
 noticed its prevalence : probably, the different mode of 
 living of the rich may destroy the seeds of the disease, 
 which a mountainous country seems to produce. 
 
 Gout, too, is a disease of frequent occurrence, 
 comparatively speaking, and with that class of people 
 among whom we do not usually find it. I witnessed 
 a severe fit of pure inflammatory gout, in the winter 
 of 1829, in a poor old man who was receiving half- 
 a-crown per week from the parish ; and I knew 
 him to be very steady in his conduct. Persons with 
 irregular atonic gout are unequivocally benefited by 
 a residence here. I do not know any place which is 
 more free from local diseases than Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 Occasionally the measles, and the scarlet and low 
 typhus fevers, make their appearance, but they are 
 always in the confined and dirty cabins of the poor, 
 whose condition and mode of life bring diseases in 
 any district, however gifted with the most healthy 
 atmosphere. Chronic rheumatism has been said to 
 be frequent here. I cannot say that I have observed 
 such frequency ; neither have I often seen cases of 
 acute rheumatism. These diseases do, however, attack 
 people, as in other places, during cold moist weather. 
 
76 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 There is one species of complaint, however, which is 
 of more common occurrence than I have usually 
 observed elsewhere, viz. affections of the brain of 
 the congestive kind ; and this might be supposed, 
 d priori, would be the case, considering the habi- 
 tudes of the country. 
 
 This is all I have been able to remark with accu- 
 racy as to the diseases which may be said to be 
 connected with the nature of the country and its 
 atmosphere. I meet with innumerable cases of dys- 
 pepsia, a rife disease every where ; but I attribute 
 its prevalence in this neighbourhood partly to the 
 poverty of diet. In this consideration, however, we 
 must not lose sight, vrith those especially who can 
 afford a proper diet, of the morbid condition of the 
 digestive organs induced by habitual costiveness, to 
 which persons are here very liable ; the direct influ- 
 ence of this constipation, immediately acting upon the 
 liver, will alter the function of that important organ in 
 producing healthy secretion. Those affections of the 
 head which I have mentioned, arise, I think, un- 
 questionably, from the chalybeate nature of this dis- 
 trict. These complaints generally occur in the robust, 
 to whom steel is particularly injurious ; for a great 
 deal of the water here used for culinary purposes 
 is impregnated with that mineral, which produces 
 costiveness, congestion in the liver, and, ultimately, 
 preternatural fulness in the brain, with its conse- 
 quences. Such people, residing here, should parti- 
 cularly abstain from drinking water with this mine 
 
COMMON WATER. 
 
 77 
 
 ral impregnation, should be very attentive to an open 
 state of bowels, and should not accustom themselves 
 to very full living, particularly if only a little exercise 
 be taken. Persons with such constitutions, if not 
 attentive to rules of this kind, had better avoid Tun- 
 bridge Wells as a place of constant residence. 
 
 The influence which water, the most universal 
 solvent and the basis of all liquids, has upon the 
 health of the community, makes it necessary that, 
 in a sketch of this kind, something should be said 
 on that which is used in Tunbridge Wells as a 
 domestic drink in every way. Several years ago I 
 published, in the 14th vol. of the Royal Institution 
 Journal, a mode of purifying the water of this place. 
 The following is an extract, with some alteration, 
 adapted to an increased knowledge of the subject. 
 
 As almost all the common water which is used 
 here, as far as I know, is more or less impregnated 
 with iron, it becomes a matter of moment to procure 
 it free from this active and salutary, but, when im- 
 properly used, in certain conditions of the constitu- 
 tion, dangerous mineral. Upon sinking a Well on 
 my premises at Tunbridge Wells, I found the water, 
 which did not appear till the depth of sixty feet, hard 
 and chalybeate, and totally unfit for domestic pur- 
 poses ; for it curdled soap, caused iron-mould on linen 
 in washing, and rendered tea black and disagreeably 
 rough to the taste. Upon reflecting in what manner 
 these inconveniences could be remedied, it occurred 
 to me, as the iron was dissolved in the water in the 
 
78 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 state of a carbonate, that, at a comparatively mode- 
 rate expense, and without any difficulty, if the hard- 
 ness of the water Avas owing solely to carbonic acid, 
 both the iron and the carbonic acid would be got rid 
 of, and the water thus rendered perfectly useful and 
 good for all purposes. I felt satisfied, that if the water 
 was suffered to remain for a time in the cistern, the 
 carbonic acid would be dissipated in its usual state of 
 gas, and that the oxide of iron, thus rendered inso- 
 luble by being freed from its acid, would be in the 
 greater part precipitated, and whatever small portion 
 was suspended, would be removed by filtration, and 
 I should thus obtain a pure water for every purpose, 
 provided I was correct in my opinion as to the cause 
 of the hardness. I took some of it, which had re- 
 mained in an open cistern twenty-four hours, and 
 poured it into a stone filtering jar. Upon mixing 
 soap with some, after filtration, I was pleased to find 
 that it had become quite soft. This shewed that the 
 inconvenient degree of hardness was owing to the 
 carbonic acid. Desirous that an able and experi- 
 enced chemist should, in a more scientific way, ascer- 
 tain the ingredients of the water thus filtered, some 
 of it was sent to Mr. Faraday, of the Royal Institu- 
 tion, to analyse, and he very obligingly sent me the 
 following satisfactory answer : — 
 
 " Royal Institution, Oct. 10, 1822. 
 Sir, — I have examined the water attentively, 
 and find no iron in it. It is by no means abundant 
 
ANALYSIS OF THE WATER. 
 
 79 
 
 in saline matter, containing only a little muriate and 
 sulphate of soda and lime. There is no carbonic acid 
 or magnesia in it. I am, &c. &c." 
 
 Upon ascertaining the important fact, that the 
 hardness of the water depended upon the carbonate 
 of iron, from which it might be readily freed, I had 
 the water forced into an open cistern in the house, 
 where it would remain for some time before it was 
 drawn off from the pipe inserted in the bottom of the 
 cistern, and ending with a stop-cock. In this way, 
 no water could be used before time w^as allowed for 
 the escape of the carbonic acid, and for the precipita- 
 tion of the iron ; but as the iron, in being precipitated, 
 would readily pass off with the water drawn from the 
 conveying pipe, and render it thick, and therefore 
 unfit for use, I have contrived a purifying cistern, by 
 which it is filtered, and freed from all noxious ingre- 
 dients. This cistern, described below, is infinitely 
 better than the cone-shaped instrument mentioned in 
 the Royal Institution Journal. 
 
80 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 The cistern is divided into three compartments, 
 1, 2 J 3. — a, the fmmel, communicating with com- 
 partment 1, into which the water drips from a pipe 
 connected with the cistern above, filled from the 
 pump in the yard. It is about one-third filled with 
 sand to by and so is compartment 2. The water 
 filters through the sand downwards in No. 1, passes 
 under the division at c into the second compartment, 
 about half an inch of space being left at the bottom 
 for that purpose, and rises gradually through the 
 sand till it comes to the height at e. It then falls 
 into the third compartment, again filters into the 
 filtering stone /, and is drawn off* when wanted at 
 the cock g, of the purest and most excellent quality., 
 d is the air-pipe, communicating with the internal 
 part of the stone cistern. 
 
 There is a spring, called Burnt House Spring, 
 situated in a little dell, in a romantic spot to the 
 right of the road leading from Tunbridge Wells to 
 Pembury. It is a good chalybeate, and the iron is 
 in a state of carbonate. This spring rises rapidly 
 into a stone basin, placed in the centre of a circular 
 excavation, about ten feet in diameter and six or 
 eight feet deep, which is bricked round, and with 
 the remains of stone steps leading down to the basin 
 at the bottom. This spring, therefore, has clearly 
 been, at some time, made use of as a medicinal water. 
 It was accidentally discovered choked up with rub- 
 bish. The country about Tunbridge Wells abounds 
 with springs of this character. 
 
BURNTHOUSE SPRING. 81 
 
 I believe all the water in and about Tunbridge 
 Wells, with some few exceptions perhaps, to be as 
 pure as any water in England, when freed from 
 the iron : it is, nevertheless, a proper precaution to 
 guard against the introduction of lead into the water 
 used for culinary purposes, as it is apt to imbibe it 
 in its passage through pipes and in cisterns of that 
 metal. If none of the lead in a state of oxide be dis- 
 solved, some will be in a state of suspension, which, 
 by thrice filtration as above described, will be totally 
 removed. With a view of lessening the chance of 
 the admission of that poisonous mineral into the water, 
 either in suspension or solution, when used, it is ad- 
 visable to have slate cisterns, such as are now con- 
 structed by Mr. Struthers, of Parliament Street. They 
 possess the advantage, too, of not yielding to frost, as 
 the brick cisterns, lined and coated with cement, do. 
 I have one in the open air which holds 300 gallons, 
 and which was proof against the severe frost of the 
 hard winter of 1829-30, without the slightest crack. 
 From the want of a proper attention to this subject, 
 when new leaden pipes were laid down in 1814, 
 many cases of lead colic, a most painful disease, oc- 
 curred the following year, the particulars of which 
 are stated in the Royal Institution Journal above 
 quoted. The leaden mains have since been removed, 
 and the danger is, therefore, considerably obviated ; 
 and, in fact, no disease of the kind has appeared 
 since their removal, as far as I know. It appears 
 more than usually necessary to guard against the pre- 
 
 e2 
 
82 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 sence of lead in water, when that water happens to 
 be impregnated with the carbonate of iron ; for the 
 bottom of a leaden cistern which I have, and into 
 which water of this sort is received, had become so 
 corroded in many parts of it as to wear the appear- 
 ance of a honeycomb, and the water leaked through. 
 I think this may have been produced by a galvanic 
 influence, caused by the contact of the lead with 
 the precipitated iron. The bottom of the cistern has 
 been since painted, and it remains sound. Did any 
 acid from vegetable matter in the water facilitate 
 this galvanic effect between the two metals ? or 
 was it produced by the carbonic acid from the pre- 
 cipitated iron? 
 
 Observing, then, the stimulant nature of the air 
 and waters of Tunbridge Wells, it is no difficult 
 matter to ascertain what persons, labouring under 
 particular maladies, would be most benefited by a 
 residence at this place, either permanently or for the 
 season. All that class of diseases which has general 
 or local debility for its basis, finds a ready relief from 
 the salutary stimulus of this renovating air. Some 
 species of asthma, coughs arising from a particular 
 state of the stomach, weaknesses and irregularities 
 in young females, sick headachs, irregular atonic 
 gout ; that degenerated state of the constitution, with 
 a depression of spirits, produced by a sedentary life 
 with mental exertion, so common to our city mer- 
 chants, who neglect their health in a laborious search 
 for the accumulation of wealth ; and also the dys- 
 
 •«»- 
 
DISEASES. 
 
 83 
 
 peptic state of the literary student, panting for fame 
 and distinction in his secluded study, will receive 
 benefit at this place. The catalogue of ills which 
 arise from these causes is too extensive to be speci- 
 fied ; and it will depend upon the degree to which 
 they have arrived, and upon their complication with 
 constitutional ailments, whether the invalids should 
 trust to the benefits of the air only, or joined with 
 the tonic power of the mineral spring. It will hap- 
 pen, and very often too, that nothing is necessary 
 but the advantage of the air, with suitable hours 
 and regimen. It is not an unfrequent occurrence, 
 under such circumstances, that the addition of the 
 waters will be injurious. When these waters are 
 proper, their effects are powerfully promoted by the 
 air. It is not always so, however, with the waters 
 when the air is found beneficial. It is necessary to 
 draw this distinction correctly in some cases, in order 
 that all the benefit which this place affords may be 
 derived from it,- and this discrimination depends so 
 much upon constitutional peculiarities, and upon the 
 causes of the debility, that it is quite impossible to 
 draw a rule of proceeding applicable to all cases. 
 One instance will exemplify this. A person may 
 arrive here with a cough, reduction of flesh, some 
 feverish irritation, an indifferent appetite, restless 
 nights from irritability, great variableness of mind 
 from debility of the brain and nervous system, caused 
 by mental exertion and agitation in the student, the 
 senator, or the merchant, in their too ardent pursuit 
 
84 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 of worldly acquirements, or in the devotee of fashion, 
 who comes with hectic fever from the nocturnal 
 orgies of London. In such cases as these, and they 
 are often met with, no man of discretion and judg- 
 ment would lay it down as a rule, that, as the cause 
 is debility, the waters are to be drank as a tonic. 
 But how often is this the case ! It is much better 
 to trust to the renovating powers of the air, with 
 moderate diet, exercise in the beautiful scenery of 
 the country, and to such medicines, at times, as 
 mildly excite the bowels ; and yet, in such a case 
 as that just described, the invahd becomes impatient 
 to return to his pursuits of worldly acquirements or 
 of pleasure, drinks the waters as a short road to 
 health, and finds he is thrown to a greater distance 
 from it by his hasty imprudence, their qualities 
 being unfriendly to some organ in his diseased state. 
 The same observations will equally apply to young 
 women, who labour under similar symptoms, from 
 twelve to eighteen or twenty years of age, but from 
 a very different cause, though great debility is present 
 in both instances. 
 
 On Temperature^ with Tliermometrical Tables, 
 
 The period from the end of October 1829 to April 
 1830 was one of the most extraordinary seasons ex- 
 perienced in Europe for a long series of years. It 
 is singular, that almost the only parts which escaped 
 the severity of the cold of that winter were Scotland 
 and the north of England, where the weather was 
 
THERMOMETRICAL TABLES. 
 
 as 
 
 mild and beautiful, and where there was scarcely 
 any frost or snow. In the county of Northum- 
 berland the nobility and gentry had only began to 
 fill their ice-houses in the first week in February, 
 while in the southern and south-western parts of the 
 island, in the preceding months of December and 
 January, the thermometer was often much below the 
 freezing point, with repeated heavy falls of snow. At 
 Penzance, which is 282 miles w.s.w. from London, 
 and 53° 10' n., the thermometer averaged 4P for 
 December 1829, and 36J° for January 1830, which 
 was the coldest month the inhabitants had experienced 
 for ten years. At the same place the thermometer stood 
 higher than in any other situation, except at Mount 
 Stewart in the Isle of Bute, which is 55° 45' n. While 
 in this northern region the thermometer ranged so 
 comparatively high, the cold was so intense in the 
 southern parts of Europe, that at Turin (44° 50' n.) 
 it was 14°, and at Marseilles (43° 18' n.) 18°, below 
 freezing. In the early part of the winter the weather 
 was more severe in Italy than in any part of England. 
 At Rome (41^ 53' n.) the average point of the ther- 
 mometer, at 8 A.M., was 29°, from the 15th to the 
 24th of November, and on the 17th of that month 
 the ice at Florence (43° 47' n.) was sufficiently hard 
 to bear skaters. 
 
 During the severe weather of this very extraordi- 
 nary season, the Marquess of Tavistock resided at 
 Torquay, in Devonsfeire, and kept a regular account 
 of the thermometer at that place. Accounts were 
 
86 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 also kept, by his Lordship's desire, at the following 
 places, viz. — Oakley, Woburn, Endsleigh, Milton 
 Abbot, Newmarket, Hastings, Belgrave Square (Lon- 
 don), and Carton, near Dublin, — whilst I kept an 
 account at Tunbridge Wells. All the thermometers 
 had a northern or north-eastern aspect, and were 
 noted between half-past seven and half-past eight 
 A.M. daily. I was honoured by the Marquess with 
 a correspondence during the whole of the time, and 
 to his Lordship's liberality and regard for science 
 I am indebted for the thermometrical registers kept 
 at the above places, as well as for the remarks re- 
 specting the weather of the North, as likewise re- 
 specting Italy, Rome, Marseilles, and Turin. By 
 his Lordship's kindness, I am enabled to give the 
 following comparative tables, which may be of use, 
 too, in making estimates of temperature at other 
 places. 
 
TABLE, NO. 1. 
 
 87 
 
 Royal 
 Society. 
 
 
 P 
 
 
 ill 
 
 
 II 
 
 S? 53 S 2 s S i: S !5 ^ S S? 551 ?? S ?? S 
 
 f 
 
 5??3fg522g2J:i'5^§5§S^§g?g3 
 
 
 5?;?S3S2?|§g§SSg^gg?^^g?g3 
 
 II 
 
 
 ! 
 
 
 i 
 
 ^^§2i:SS?S = ^^S^SS?5?^;3g 
 
 Oakley.* 
 
 ??S?2225;S§~SjgSgS§3??^SS? 
 
 t 
 
 ?? ^ g STi i" 5 ^ g g 5? s5§ 
 
 2 i ^ 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 II 
 
 £2 
 
 II 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 a 
 
 li 
 
 ■s-s 
 
 II 
 
88 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Mo7ithli/ Average for December 1829 and January 1830. 
 
 December. January. 
 
 Royal Society 34 1 32 5 
 
 Torquay - 36 31 
 
 Woburn 31 28i 
 
 Tunbridge Wells 32 28 
 
 Endsleigh 34 28i 
 
 Newmarket 33 311 
 
 Hastings 35 31 
 
 Belgrave Square .o, 32 30 
 
 Carton 34 31 
 
 Howick 39 341 
 
 At all the above places, the degrees were noted at the hours 
 already mentioned ; except at Howick, near Alnwick, in Northum- 
 berland, the thermometer being marked there at ten a.m., and at 
 the Royal Society at nine a.m. Howick is the seat of Earl 
 Grey. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Weekly Average frorn November 21, 1829, to January 9, 1830. 
 
 
 Week ending 
 
 r 
 
 Nov. 21. 
 
 Nov. 28. 
 
 Dec. 5. 
 
 Dec. 12. 
 
 Dec. 19. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 26. 
 
 Jan. 2. 
 
 Jan. 9. 
 
 
 38 6 
 
 38 4 
 
 44 4 
 
 38 5 
 
 36 6 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 27 2 
 
 33 2 
 
 
 30 2 
 
 35 
 
 39 4 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 26 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 32 4 
 
 35 1 
 
 40 2 
 
 34 1 
 
 34 5 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Tonbridge Wells 
 
 
 35 2 
 
 41 1 
 
 31 
 
 35 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 24 2 
 
 32 4 
 
 Endsleigh 
 
 
 
 43 
 
 40 3 
 
 35 4 
 
 27 
 
 6 
 
 21 2 
 
 28 6 
 
 Milton Abbot ... 
 
 
 
 
 .39 3 
 
 33 4 
 
 27 
 
 5 
 
 21 2 
 
 30 3 
 
 Newmarket 
 
 
 
 40 6 
 
 321 
 
 32 1 
 
 26 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 35 4 
 
 39 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 27 3 
 
 
 Belgrave Square 
 
 
 
 40 5 
 
 34 2 
 
 34 3 
 
 28 
 
 
 26 4 
 
 33 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 43 1 
 
 35 1 
 
 28 
 
 6 
 
 27 I 
 
 
TABLE, NO. 4. 
 
 89 
 
 § pq 
 o 
 
 rr. O 
 
 9 H 
 
 o 
 
 ^ o ^ ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CD 
 
 
 03 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 C« 
 
 
 1 
 
 (4-1 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Co 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 93 
 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 o 
 
 
 Lo 
 
 Ab 
 
 CO tJ* p— i rH CO 
 
 cot^OiOio>-H(noco^ 
 
 COCMCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCO 
 
 S o 
 
 PH r-l I— I T}< ^ 
 
 C0C0'^OC0t^'*iO-H(M 
 <n(M(N(M(M(nC^(NCO(n 
 
 H O ^ 
 
 03 
 C/3 
 
 S ^ ffi pq 3 
 
90 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Temperature of Places, 
 
 From an examination of the foregoing average 
 tables we shall be able to take a tolerably accurate 
 view of the comparative temperatures of the different 
 places where the registers have been kept. It is 
 generally believed that Tunbridge Wells is a very 
 cold place in the winter — much colder than most 
 other places in England — and I was one of those 
 who assented to this idea ; but the thermometrical re- 
 gisters, kept at the situations and during the periods 
 mentioned in the tables, do not by any means prove 
 this to be the fact. If we look at Table, No. 1, 
 which gives a daily account of the thermometer at 
 about eight a.m. in eleven different places, we shall 
 find that the thermometer at Tunbridge Wells, on 
 several days, stood higher than at Hastings, parti- 
 cularly on the 2d, 8th, and 9th of February ; while 
 on several other days the quicksilver was precisely 
 at the same point at both. It stood, also, higher on 
 some days than in Belgrave Square. It was superior 
 to Oakley for almost half the time, and to Woburn 
 on several days; — also to Torquay on two days, and 
 Endsleigh on six days ; — equalled it on two days, 
 and was superior to Milton Abbot on four days. In 
 looking, also, at the monthly average for December 
 and January, in Table No. 2, it will be found that 
 Tunbridge Wells was equal to Belgrave Square, 
 superior to Woburn, and not much below other 
 places, except Torquay, Hastings, and Howick, for 
 
COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURE. 
 
 91 
 
 the month of December; while, for the month of 
 January, it was within half a degree of Endsleigh, 
 and not much inferior to the other places, except 
 Howick ; but it is scarcely right to include the latter 
 place, as the thermometer there was not noted till 
 two hours after the other places. The weekly ave- 
 rage, too, of Table No. 3, from November 21 to 
 January 9, shews also that Tunbridge Wells does 
 not range so low in temperature as has been gene- 
 rally imagined, which the reader can very easily 
 ascertain by examining it. In Table No. 4, we have 
 the weekly average of the different places for two 
 weeks, one in January, the other in February, being 
 the coldest periods of the season. In the first of 
 these weeks, Tunbridge Wells averaged lower than 
 any of the other places, being full five degrees below 
 Torquay, three below Endsleigh, six below Milton 
 Abbot, and two below Hastings ; but in the second, 
 that is, in the week of February, the temperature 
 of all the places, on the average, rose considerably, 
 but higher in proportion at Tunbridge Wells than 
 at any other place, except Torquay, for they both 
 rose very nearly the same number of averaged de- 
 grees from the point at which they stood in January. 
 In the week of February, we find Tunbridge Wells 
 superior to Oakley, Woburn, and Belgrave Square, 
 and nearly equal to Hastings and Newmarket. 
 
 Such, then, being the comparative estimate of 
 the temperature of Tunbridge Wells, it becomes a 
 matter for consideration, how far it may not be 
 
TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 better adapted for the residence of persons under 
 severe consumptive symptoms, who require, in almost 
 all situations wherein they may he, to be housed 
 during the extreme severity of the weather which 
 often occurs in the winter season. Recollecting that 
 the temperature of Tunbridge Wells is not so low 
 as has been generally supposed, and that in very 
 bad weather, any where, consumptive people must 
 confine themselves to the house, I now believe that, 
 in several sheltered spots at Tunbridge Wells, where 
 the houses, vrith a south-west aspect, are protected 
 from the north and easterly winds, such people may 
 safely find an asylum here during the winter months. 
 The following remark of Dr. Young is very appo- 
 site to the subject:^ — The frequency of con- 
 sumptions is decidedly greater in cold than in hot 
 climates ; but not by any means in exact proportion 
 to the depression of the mean temperature.'' As far 
 as my own experience goes, consumptive cases are 
 always worse in extreme cold, or extreme hot weather. 
 There are also other adventitious circumstances, be- 
 sides temperature, which are detrimental in con- 
 sumptive cases, or in coughs which mark a dispo- 
 sition to that fatal disease. The moisture or dryness 
 of the air must have a considerable influence in 
 modifying the effects of temperature. In saying, 
 therefore, that I believe consumptive people may 
 safely winter at Tunbridge Wells, I must be under- 
 
 * " Medical Literature," p. 571. 
 
ON COUGHS. 
 
 93 
 
 stood as meaning that a consideration must be given 
 to the individual case ; for there is certainly no cli- 
 mate universally beneficial to every apparently con- 
 sumptive case, any more than there is a general 
 panacea for the same disease in every person. I 
 should say, too, that advantage is to be derived from 
 change of air, by going from one place to another — 
 from the place where the disease attacked a person to 
 some other situation ; for there are beneficial circum- 
 stances connected vrith change of locality with which 
 we are not well acquainted ; and therefore, although 
 I would advise persons with some kinds of coughs 
 to reside here, I should, without any contradiction 
 of principle, send a person similarly diseased, a 
 native particularly, and whose disease commenced 
 here, to some other place. I am unwilling to specify 
 particularly what kinds of coughs would be bene- 
 fited by a winter residence at Tunbridge Wells, lest 
 I might mislead ; but certainly the hard and dry 
 cough of the dyspeptic character, where the disease 
 seems disposed to fix its fangs upon the lungs, and 
 quit the digesting organs, would be benefited here, 
 — the same domestic care, with respect to clothing, 
 temperature, diet, and exercise, when the weather 
 will permit, being strictly observed as in a genuine 
 consumptive case. I believe that the purity of the 
 air here, combined with the attention just alluded 
 to, will materially assist such patients. The fact is, 
 that these and similar cases are too often neglected, 
 till extensive depredations are committed on tke 
 
94 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 lungs, when patients may go to Nova Zembla, or 
 any where else, as well as to the south of France, 
 or to Italy, where they are often sent to, under the 
 false hopes and expectations of recovery, but where 
 they are destined to close their eyes, deprived of 
 the consolation of friends and the comforts of their 
 own homes. A system more congenial to the suffer- 
 ings of patients, and more alleviating to their dis- 
 tresses, is now adopting, from the knowledge we 
 possess of a better discrimination of disease, and of 
 local situations in our own island, where temperature 
 and other adventitious circumstances can be readily 
 
 and beneficially attended to. The narrow limits 
 
 within which this little sketch must necessarily be 
 confined prevents me from entering more largely 
 into this very interesting subject, and of benefiting 
 in my observations by the valuable publication of 
 Dr. Clark,=^' late of Rome, but now of London ; and 
 of the useful work of Dr. Harwood,f of Hastings. 
 
 * " Influence of Climate on the Prevention and Cure of Chro- 
 nic Diseases,^^ &c., by James Clark, M.D. 
 
 f ^^The Curative Influence of the Southern Coast of England,'^ 
 &c., by William Harvvood, M.D. 
 
SKETCH IV. 
 
 THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY AROUND TUNBRIDGE WELLS I 
 SEATS, SCENES, AND ANTIQUITIES IN THE VICINITY. 
 
 Every sojourner at the Wells, whether he be des- 
 tmed to continue for a short or long time, will be 
 induced to make occasional excursions to different 
 places in the vicinity. These little daily or morning 
 tours constitute an essential source of amusement, 
 and, indeed, of healthful exercise, to persons who 
 leave the gay and active metropolis to take up their 
 abode in a new place, with every thing novel and 
 strange around them. In such circumstances, curi- 
 osity is excited by each fresh scene and varied object, 
 and the mind naturally seeks to obtain information 
 and acquire knowledge — for ignorance is hateful. 
 To a person naturally inquisitive, every form and 
 feature of creation, every work of art, every incident 
 in the pilgrimage of life, is a matter for admiring 
 contemplation, or philosophic reflection. Whilst the 
 geologist explores the stratification, and apparently 
 heterogeneous compound globe on which we live, 
 the astronomer looks to and investigates the phe- 
 nomena of the countless globes which continually 
 
96 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 revolve around him. The zoologist examines the 
 animal creation which daily courts his study, and 
 which are almost infinite in number, in size, and 
 attributes ; whilst the botanist, the agriculturist, the 
 mineralogist, alike find something to claim their 
 attention and court their study in every new country 
 they visit, in each separate district wherein they may 
 be placed. The artist, the antiquary, the historian, 
 the philosopher, will be little entitled to deserve their 
 respective appellations if they cannot meet with ob- 
 jects congenial to their favourite study in any and 
 every part of the world. If we have not yet started 
 any game for the antiquary within the precincts of the 
 Wells, he will find some fine preserves in Mayfield 
 Place, Bayham Abbey, and Penshurst Place ; in 
 the castles of Tunbridge, Hever, Scotney, and Bodi- 
 ham ; in the old mansions of Brambletye, Knole, 
 Summer Hill, and in several other places within a 
 day's journey of the Wells. Each and all of these will 
 afford him much rational sport ; and if he be pro- 
 perly qualijiedy he will be sure of obtaining a cour- 
 teous reception rather than a repulse from the re- 
 spective lords of those manors. Having been for 
 many years rather a bold and impertinent trespasser 
 — almost a poacher — I can speak from experience; 
 and having derived endless amusement from the 
 pursuit, I am induced to urge others to adopt a 
 similar course. The whole of the British Islands 
 abound with sport of this kind, and the pursuit is 
 conducive at once to health of body and of mind. 
 
LAUDABLE CURIOSITY. 
 
 97 
 
 As an old and experienced sportsman, I wish to 
 impress on the minds of those who are beginning 
 their career, the necessity of exploring beyond the 
 surface — of looking further than the mere stones, 
 mortar, carvings, doors, and windows of ancient 
 buildings, for the philosophy of archaeology — for the 
 elements of art and science. Antiquaries have been 
 stigmatised as a dull, insipid race of triflers, and 
 there are some who deserve this reproach, but there 
 are many bright and redeeming exceptions. 
 
 Whatever may be the partialities or habits of 
 persons, it seems an almost incumbent duty on them 
 to obtain some degree of information respecting places 
 and persons of public fame, in their own immediate 
 neighbourhood at least : it is a current coin of con- 
 versation at all times ; and in proportion as a per- 
 son is either rich or poor in this article, will be 
 the estimation he may secure in society. There is 
 no excuse or apology for ignorance in the present 
 day, for information is disseminated all over the 
 country ; and it may be literally said now,, that 
 ^' he who runs may read." That man or woman 
 can possess but little of either sense or sensibility, 
 who can pass the mansions of Knole, Penshurst, 
 and Summer Hill — the ruins of Mayfield Palace, 
 Bayham Abbey, and Tunbridge Castle, without 
 stopping to survey some of their features, and 
 making some inquiry respecting their histories. 
 Each of these buildings is a theme for an extended 
 essay, for each is connected with public persons 
 
 F 
 
98 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 and events, of varied and extensive interest. On the 
 present occasion I can only furnish a few hints or 
 notices of these, and of other distinguished places ; 
 but the references which will be given will direct 
 the inquisitive reader to sources of further and more 
 detailed information. 
 
 The following interesting letter cannot fail to gra- 
 tify the geologist ; nor can it be read without advan- 
 tage by any person inspired with laudable curiosity. 
 
 VICTORIA GATE. 
 
A Notice on the Geology of the Environs of 
 Tunhridge Wells; 
 
 By GIDEON MANTELL, Esq., F.R.S. &cc. 
 [In a Letter to the Author.] 
 
 Castle Place, Lewes, April 16, 1832. 
 
 MY DEAR SIR, 
 
 You have requested me to furnish you 
 with a sketch of the Geology of Tunbridge Wells, 
 and I assure you it would have afforded me much 
 pleasure could I have complied with your wishes ; 
 but my time is so entirely occupied by professional 
 engagements, that it is out of my power to do justice 
 to the subject, and I can only oflFer you a few desul- 
 tory remarks on the stratification of the delightful 
 spot on which that town is situated, and a slight 
 and imperfect notice of the geology of the surround- 
 ing country. 
 
 The physical structure of the environs of Tun- 
 bridge Wells is in every important particular ana- 
 logous to that of the adjoining division of Sussex ; 
 with this difierence, that the general dip or incli- 
 nation of the strata in Kent is to the north-east, 
 while in Sussex it is towards the south-west. 
 
 The North Downs, stretching from the Surrey 
 hills through the county, and terminating in Dover 
 
100 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Cliffs, point out the course and extent of the White 
 chalk, which presents a bold escarpment to the south, 
 and is based on the Grey marl that appears on its 
 southern edge, and also in many of the deep valleys 
 of the Downs. Beneath the Grey marl is an arena- 
 ceous bed, of a greenish colour, which in some 
 localities passes into sand, {Chlorite, or upper green 
 sand), and in others into a stone fit for building 
 (Firestone) ; while in many places it is altogether 
 absent, the grey chalk marl reposing on the strata 
 next described. 
 
 A stiff blue marl (the Folkstone clay), which in 
 some places is called Gait or Malm, succeeds ; be- 
 neath which is a thick deposit of sand (the Shanhlin 
 sand), enclosing beds of chert and sandstone (the 
 Kentish rag), and which, rising to the surface on 
 the southern side of the Gait, composes a tract of 
 country of considerable extent. It is this lowest 
 member of the chalk that forms the chain of hills 
 situated between the southern escarpment of the 
 Downs and the Weald. The deposits above named, 
 viz. 
 
 1. The White Chalk, comprising the upper or 
 
 flinty chalk ; and lower, or chalk without 
 flints ; 
 
 2. The Grey Marl and Upper green sand, or fire- 
 
 stone ; 
 
 3. The Gait, or Folkstone clay ; and, lastly, 
 
 4. The Shanklin sand with chert and Kentish 
 
 rag — 
 
CHALK — FOSSILS. 
 
 101 
 
 are all included by geologists in the term ^' Chalk 
 Formation,'*^ because they are intimately related to 
 each other, contain marine remains of the same 
 zoological characters, and have manifestly been de- 
 posited in the basin of the same ocean. The organic 
 remains of the chalk are very numerous, and are no 
 where more interesting, perfect, and abundant, than 
 in Kent. The pits at Northfleet and Gravesend have 
 long been celebrated for the beautiful corals, echini, 
 and shells, with which they abound ; and in • the 
 cliffs at Dover the bivalve shells and corals occur in 
 great perfection and variety. At Charing, bones and 
 teeth of reptiles and fishes, together with the usual 
 marine shells, have been discovered. In the lower 
 divisions of the chalk, the fossils found in Kent are 
 unrivalled. The Folkstone Cliffs are known to all 
 the geologists of Europe, as furnishing the most 
 splendid specimens of ammonites, hamites, and other 
 shells, with the pearly coat, or nacreous covering, 
 still remaining in as beautiful a state as in the 
 recent animals. In the sands beneath, the marine 
 remains are equally abundant, as the admirable 
 collection made by Mr. Hills, of Lymne, amply 
 testifies. Hamites of immense size, ammonites not 
 less gigantic, and innumerable shells of other genera, 
 are the productions of these strata. The Museum 
 at Canterbury contains a very fine collection of the 
 fossil productions of the county, and which, owing 
 to the indefatigable and scientific labours of Mr. W. 
 Masters, of that city, are arranged and displayed 
 
102 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 in a manner that would do credit to any metropo- 
 litan museum. 
 
 I must now proceed to notice the deposits con- 
 stituting that part of Kent, which occupies the in- 
 terval between the southern border of the sands 
 above described and the county of Sussex ; and it 
 may be well in this place to remark, that while the 
 inhabitants of the former district reside on the bed 
 of an ancient ocean, those occupying the tract of 
 country under consideration live on the debris brought 
 down by an immense river (some ancient Ganges)^ 
 and deposited in its course, or in an extensive lake 
 or estuary. These strata arise from beneath the 
 chalk, and were formerly covered wholly, or in part, 
 by that formation, and owe their present situation to 
 those disturbing forces, whose effects are visible on 
 every part of the earth's surface; — forces by which 
 " the fountains of the great deep are broken up;'^ 
 continents sunk beneath the sea, or converted into 
 groups of islands ; and the bed of the ocean elevated 
 into lofty mountains and plains, which, in after-ages, 
 become the abode of the human race. The following 
 diagram will explain the relative situation of the 
 strata between the North and South Dow^ns. 
 
 SXrsSEX 5 KENT 
 
 2 
 
 1 1 Weald. 
 
 2 2 Marine. 
 
 3 Trowhoroueh Hill. 
 
 4 Freshwater. 
 
 Immediately beneath the lower sand of the chalk 
 formation, a thick bed of tenacious clay, generally 
 
CLAY — MARBLE. 
 
 103 
 
 of various shades of a bluish grey colour, appears • 
 it is called the Weald Clay, and forms the subsoil 
 of the wealds of Kent and Sussex. It contains beds 
 of a limestone, composed of the petrified remains of 
 a spiral shell-fish, allied to a species of river-snail, 
 held together by a sub-crystalline, calcareous cement. 
 It forms a marble, which in some localities is sufl5- 
 ciently compact and hard to bear a good polish. 
 This marble was in much request in ancient times 
 for the columns of religious edifices and sepulchral 
 monuments. It is generally known by the name of 
 Sussex, or Petworth Marble ; but it occurs through- 
 out the wealds of both Sussex and Kent : at Bethers- 
 den, and other places, it is still quarried. The fossils 
 of the weald clay and its associated limestones are 
 not only entirely dissimilar to those of the chalk 
 above mentioned, but are, without any exception, the 
 remains of animals that can exist in fresh water 
 only ; and the reader will at once perceive how 
 impossible it is such creatures should have lived in 
 the same fluid as the marine beings whose exuvise 
 are entombed in the chalk. This fact at once offers 
 a line of demarcation between these deposits and 
 those which we have above described. Beneath the 
 weald is a series of sands and sandstones of various 
 colours — fawn, ferruginous, bluish grey, white, &c. 
 alternating with shale and clay, and enclosing beds 
 of a very compact calciferous grit. It is these strata 
 which occupy the area between the wealds of Kent 
 and Sussex. They rise to their greatest altitude 
 (804 feet) at Crowborough Hill, form the country 
 
104 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 immediately around Tunbridge Wells, and extend 
 to the coast, where they constitute the line of cliffs 
 from Bexhill in Sussex to Winchelsea ; the weald clay 
 occupying the marshes of Pevensey, Romney, &c. 
 
 To this extensive series of deposits, the name 
 of Wealden or Hastings formation has been given. 
 With the exception of the Isles of Wight and Pur- 
 beck, no other localities of these beds are known, 
 although traces of somewhat analogous strata have 
 been lately observed near Beauvais, in France. 
 Their fossils are of a most extraordinary character, 
 and are, as above remarked, exclusively either of 
 fresh water or terrestrial origin. They consist of 
 the bones and teeth of crocodiles, and of several 
 other kinds of reptiles, so gigantic as almost to ex- 
 ceed belief. One of these monsters, the Iguanodon 
 (so called from the resemblance of its teeth to those 
 of the iguana, a lizard of the West Indies), whose 
 teeth and bones have been found in the stone near 
 Horsham, must have been from 60 to 100 feet long ! 
 for its thigh and toe bones are larger than those of 
 the largest elephant ! With these beings of an early 
 period of our planet are associated the mineralised 
 remains of plants allied to tropical ferns, &c., fishes 
 and shells of various kinds, and the bones of birds. 
 These fossils are figured and described in the works 
 that have been published on the organic remains 
 of Tilgate Forest, in Sussex. I must content myself 
 
 * " Illustrations of the Geology of Sussex ; containing Figures 
 and Descriptions of the Fossils of Tilgate Forest one vol. royal 
 4to, with numerous plates. 
 
HIGH ROCKS. 
 
 105 
 
 in this brief notice with the expression of my con- 
 viction, that the environs of Tunbridge Wells would, 
 by a little perseverance and diligent research, be 
 rendered as productive as the most celebrated localities 
 in Sussex. 
 
 The hills and vales around the Wells have been 
 produced by the displacement which the strata have 
 suffered during their emersion from the depths of the 
 waters. This elevation was in all probability not 
 sudden, but gradual ; and in the changes here 
 contemplated, some of the highest peaks would first 
 appear above the waves, and constitute a group of 
 islands, which, from the accumulation of fossil 
 fruits, &:c. at Sheppey, appears to have been soon 
 clothed with a vegetation that could not exist in 
 our present climate. During this process valleys 
 would be scooped out by currents, the sharp edges 
 of the rocks rounded by diluvial action, and accu- 
 mulations of debris be formed in the undisturbed 
 depths of the ocean. This action would go on during 
 the gradual elevation of the land, the difference of 
 level creating different systems of valleys, till the 
 whole of the south-eastern part of England was 
 elevated above the ocean, and presented the pic- 
 turesque surface by which it is now characterised. 
 That romantic spot, the High JRocks, the favourite 
 resort of the visitors to the Wells, is not less attrac- 
 tive to the geologist. It is manifestly an ancient 
 shore — a line of cliffs that for ages bore the brunt 
 of the waves, when the valleys of the weald were 
 
 f2 
 
106 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 filled by the waters of the ocean, and the forest ridge 
 was an island in an extensive archipelago. In many 
 other parts of the county, the escarpment of the 
 sandstone presents a similar appearance. But I must 
 not dilate on this most interesting and inviting sub- 
 ject. Mr. Lyell, in the third volume of his Prin- 
 ciples of Geology/' now in the press, will do it 
 ample justice, and to that work I would refer the 
 reader, whom these hasty remarks may render desir- 
 ous of further information.^ 
 
 As a guide to such visitors as may wish to collect 
 fossils from the strata near Tunbridge Wells, I will 
 mention some localities in which, during my few and 
 hasty visits, I observed organic remains ; at the same 
 time I must do justice to my young intelligent friend 
 Mr. Jansons, late of Dudley House, now of London, 
 and acknowledge, that to him, several years since, 
 I was indebted for the first fossils I had seen from 
 the Wells. 
 
 SouTHBOROUGH. A quarry on the left of the road, 
 leading to Tunbridge, contains ferns like those 
 of Tilgate Forest {Lonchopteris reticulata), scales 
 of fishes, teeth of crocodile. 
 
 * If the reader be wholly unacquainted with the science, he 
 should consult Mr. Bakewell's Introduction to Geology,^^ which 
 is decidedly the most popular, lucid, and philosophical work on 
 this subject in the English language. For the ladies, Mrs. Maria 
 Hack^s " Glimpses of Geology is best calculated ; it is alike 
 elegant, interesting, and instructive. 
 
ORGANIC REMAINS. 
 
 107 
 
 Huntley's Quarry. Ferns ; stems of an equisetum 
 (jE. Lyellii) ; teeth and scales of fishes. 
 
 TuNBRiDGE Wells Common. In sandstone, casts of 
 spiral univalves {Paludina vivipard) ; teeth of 
 crocodile ; teeth of Megalosaurus, an enormous 
 lizard, whose remains occur also at Tilgate Forest, 
 and at Stonesfield, Oxfordshire ; minute teeth and 
 scales of fishes. 
 
 Langton Pits. Immense quantities of casts of bi- 
 valves (fresh-water) in iron-stone. 
 
 Jones's Quarry. In a bed of Tilgate grit, bones of 
 reptiles, broken and water-worn ; teeth of croco- 
 diles and megalosaurus ; scales of fishes. 
 
 Groomsbridge Quarry. Casts of fresh-water bi- 
 valve shells. 
 
 Hollow-field Quarry. In grit, bones of reptiles 
 in fragments. 
 
 Withyham. My respected friend, the Rev. Sack- 
 ville Bale, dug up a grit, resembling that of Til- 
 gate, on his estate, which contained fragments of 
 bones of reptiles. 
 
 Rocks in Eridge Park, contain lignite, and traces 
 of ferns and reeds. 
 
 In the above hasty sketch, I have not noticed the 
 strata denominated ^' T'ertiary'' by geologists, which 
 have resulted from the partial destruction of the 
 wealden and chalk formations, and were deposited 
 in hollows or basins of the chalk during the period 
 when these last named deposits were being elevated, 
 
108 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 as they do not occur in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of the Wells : for the same reason I shall not 
 describe those alluvial beds of a later period, which 
 contain the bones and teeth of elephants, mammoths, 
 and other mammalia, and of which Heme Bay has 
 afforded so extraordinary an assemblage. 
 
 I cannot conclude, however, without mentioning 
 that a few years since the lower jaw and fragments 
 of other bones of the Hyena were discovered in a fis- 
 sure in the sandstone at Boughton quarries, near 
 Maidstone ; and I would earnestly recommend gen- 
 tlemen who reside in that neighbourhood, and have 
 taste and leisure for the task, to follow up the inquiry, 
 since it cannot fail to lead to the most interesting and 
 important results. 
 
 I am, my dear Sir, 
 
 Most faithfully yours, 
 
 GIDEON MANTELL. 
 
 To J, Brjtton, Esq. F.S.A, <^c. 
 
NOTICES OF PLACES AROUND TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Bridge House, sometimes called Bridge Castle, 
 two miles from the Wells, the seat of the Barl of 
 Abergavenny, is a large, irregular pile of building, 
 having turrets and embrasures on the parapets. The 
 country around is greatly diversified and abounds 
 with woods, among which firs are the most predomi- 
 nant. As already noticed (pp. 17, 23), this place was 
 a small hunting-seat at the beginning of the seven- 
 teenth century; and when Burr wrote his volume, 
 it was reduced to a plain farm-house:" yet the 
 same author calls it an ancient Gothic structure." 
 Aaron Hill, in a letter to David Mallet, describes 
 " the park as an assemblage of all nature's beauties 
 — hills, valeS; brooks, lawns, groves, thickets, rocks, 
 water-falls, all wildly noble, and irregularly amiable! " 
 Strange words ! and intended by the author to have 
 some meaning, but which it would puzzle a critical 
 grammarian to understand. 
 
 This estate or manor is very large, extending 
 over at least 7000 acres, and comprising other 
 subordinate manors. It formerly included the forest 
 of Water-Down. From its early possessors it may 
 
110 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 be inferred, that it was in old times a lordship of 
 consequence. These were Godwin, Earl of Kent, the 
 Earl of Montaigne and Cornwall, the Earl of Clare, 
 Sir Edward Neville, afterwards Lord Bergavenny. 
 In the latter family, with the name altered to Aber- 
 gavenny, the property has continued to the present 
 time. 
 
 The house stands on an eminence, in the midst 
 of a park of about 2000 acres. On a lofty knoll 
 are the remains of an ancient encampment, called 
 Saxon-hury Castle, and, from its name, ascribed to 
 the Saxons ; whilst another spot in the park bears 
 the name of Danes' Gate, supposed to be part of an 
 old track-way or military road, between the earth- 
 fortress of Saxonbury, and another on Crowborough 
 Hill. On Eridge Green continued, for many years, 
 a curious mortar, or large gun, said to have been 
 the first made in England. The tradition is, that 
 it was cast at Buxted furnace, about twelve miles 
 north of Lewes. It is preserved in the British 
 Museum ; and some account of it, with a print, is 
 given in the Archseologia,'' vol. x. p. 472. 
 
 Frant is a truly romantic village, on the brow 
 of a very high hill, two miles south of the Wells. 
 From the church, and its yard, are very fine and 
 extensive views ; and the former is a conspicuous 
 object from many distant places to the north. A 
 new .tower was built to the old church in 1819, 
 and immediately afterwards it was found necessary 
 
MAYFIELD PALACE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 to pull down and rebuild the church. The Earl 
 of Abergavenny contributed the greater part of the 
 money towards the building. The end of the south 
 aile was built and fitted up by the Marquess Cam- 
 den, as a family pew. 
 
 A short distance south of the church is Shern- 
 forld Place, a large and handsome mansion, erected 
 by Charles Pigeon, Esq., and now the property of 
 Lieutenant-Colonel By. The house stands on high 
 ground, and commands very extensive and diversified 
 views. 
 
 Saxon-bury Lodge is a modern Gothic villa, built 
 by Daniel Rowland, Esq. It stands high, and over- 
 looks nearly the whole of Eridge Park, and a wide 
 expanse of country. 
 
 Mayfield, at the distance of eight miles south 
 of the Wells, on a hill, demands our notice and 
 veneration, from having been honoured with a noble 
 provincial palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury, 
 and which afterwards belonged to that civic philan- 
 thropist. Sir Thomas Gresham. The manor was 
 possessed by the see of Canterbury before the Nor- 
 man Conquest of England Provincial synods are 
 said to have been held in 1332 and 1362 : but John- 
 son (in Ecclesiastical Laws," a.d. m.ccc.xxxii.) 
 thinks there is some blunder or fraud" on this 
 subject. Many deeds and official documents bear date 
 at Mayfield. The archbishops Messham, Stratford, 
 and Islip, died here. The latter fell from his horse 
 
112 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 into a dirty slough between Sevenoaks and Tun- 
 bridge, which occasioned the palsy, and eventually 
 his death. The palace was of considerable size, 
 seated in a large park, and that surrounded by an 
 extensive demesne, all of which was surrendered to 
 Henry VIIL by Archbishop Cranmer, to propitiate 
 the monarch and the people in behalf of the then 
 unpopular clergy. Sir Thomas Gresham is reputed 
 to have lived here in a most sumptuous style; and 
 it is presumed that Queen Elizabeth visited the civic 
 knight during her Progress in Sussex." 
 
 Of this once famous palace the remains are in- 
 considerable, and these in a very ruined, mutilated 
 condition. The side walls, and ends of the great 
 hall, are standing, with some of the ribbed arches 
 of the roof. It measured about 68 feet in length, 
 by 38 feet in breadth, and, like most of the baronial 
 dining halls, was open to the roof. Connected 
 with this are other apartments, now occupied by a 
 farmer, in one of which is a chimney-piece with 
 the date of 1371. Among the curiosities of the 
 place are the anvil, hammer, and tongs, which are 
 traditionally said to have belonged to the noted 
 St. Dunstan, and who is also said to have used the 
 last instrument most ungallantly, and even brutishly, 
 in twinging the nose of Old Nick, who tempted the 
 immaculate prelate in the form of a fine lady ! ! 
 North of Mayfield, on an eminence, is an encamp- 
 ment, called Stockhury. Thomas May, who trans- 
 lated Lucan's ^' Pharsalia/' and wrote a continu- 
 
BAYHAM ABBEY. 
 
 113 
 
 ation, with other pieces in prose and verse, was a 
 native of this place, where he was born in 1595. 
 
 Bayham, or Begeham Abbey, about six miles 
 south-east of the Wells, was a monastery of some 
 extent and consequence in former times ; but, like 
 many other old catholic edifices of the country, 
 is now a confused mass of ruins. It appears from 
 Tanner's Notitia," that a community of Praemon- 
 stratentian Canons were settled here in 1200, at 
 the instigation of Sir Robert de Turneham, who 
 conferred on them all his lands at Begeham. Pope 
 Gregory the Ninth granted these monks consider- 
 able privileges and exemptions in 1266; and King 
 Edward II. conferred on the abbot the liberty of free 
 warren over his demesne lands. It is inferred from 
 these and other facts, that the abbey was of great 
 extent and consequence ; yet it is classed among the 
 smaller monasteries in the 17th Henry VIII., when 
 its revenues were obtained by Cardinal Wolsey to- 
 wards the foundation of his two famous colleges at 
 Ipswich and Oxford. The estate, however, appears 
 to have reverted to the crown, on the cardinal's dis- 
 grace, and became successively occupied by several 
 different families. In 1714 it was purchased by 
 John Pratt, Esq., afterwards Chief Justice of the 
 King's Bench, from whom it has descended to the 
 present Marquess Camden. This truly patriotic 
 nobleman has a small mansion adjoining the abbey 
 ruins, where his lordship occasionally resides; but 
 
114 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 his principal seat is at the Wilderness, near River- 
 head. The remains of the abbey buildings, though 
 extending over a broad area of ground, are so much 
 dilapidated and overgrown, that it is almost impos- 
 sible to ascertain the original appropriation of the 
 different parts, and their architectural features. The 
 form and extent of the church are apparent. It had 
 a long narrow nave, with a staircase -turret at the 
 north-west angle, and a small entrance door-Avay in 
 the west front. The nave extends 170 feet in length, 
 by 24 feet in width, and was lighted by windows 
 high in the walls. In the third division, from the 
 west end, on the north side, is an entrance door-way, 
 and in the wall of the opposite side are two door- 
 ways to the cloisters. On the north side of the nave 
 are some small apartments, and on the south side are 
 several others, which appear to have had commu- 
 nication with the church, cloisters, and abbey build- 
 ings. There was a transept between the nave and 
 the choir, in the centre of which appears to have 
 been a tower, supported on four bold piers, orna- 
 mented with several columns. 
 
 On the eastern side of the transept are four small 
 chapels or chantries, separated from each other by 
 walls. East of the transept was the choir, termi- 
 nated by three sides of an octagon, having three large 
 windows. The whole extent of the church is 252 
 feet. There are some mutilated monumental slabs 
 among the ruins. On the east of the cloisters are 
 two columns, with parts of walls and buttresses. 
 
BAYHAM ABBEY— -IVY. 
 
 115 
 
 which appear to be the remains of the chapter-house, 
 branching out from which, to the south, are frag- 
 ments of walls, enclosing a parallelogramatic space, 
 apparently the refectory. On the southern side of 
 the cloisters are ruins of vaulted rooms, part of the 
 domestic buildings of the abbey. About 100 yards 
 to the north-west of the church are some remains of 
 the entrance-gate house, or lodge to the abbey pre- 
 cincts. Immediately adjoining this is an immense 
 pollard ash-tree, which Gough describes, in his addi- 
 tions to Camden's Britannia,'' as being several 
 yards in girth, as old, if not older, than the abbey, 
 and supposed to be the largest extant." 
 
 That general accompaniment and cause of archi- 
 tectural ruin, the ivy, has grown here to an amazing 
 extent. It has not only covered nearly the whole 
 surface of the building, but insinuated its treacherous 
 branches into the joints and crevices of the masonry. 
 The wood has grown to great size, and displaced 
 columns, mouldings, muUions, &c., and thus over- 
 turned and destroyed the very objects it was in- 
 tended to adorn. At the time I visited these ruins, 
 it gave me much pleasure to see its noble pro- 
 prietor giving directions to the gardener to cut dow^n 
 and check the progress of this very fine but danger- 
 ous plant. 
 
 The grounds around the abbey are greatly diver- 
 sified by bold swells and narrow valleys, and finely 
 adorned with old timber trees. To the north of the 
 house is a fine lake, skirted by hanging woods. 
 
116 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 About two miles south-east of Bayham is the plea- 
 sant village of Lamberhurst, situated on the banks 
 of the small river Bewle, which divides the coun- 
 ties of Kent and Sussex, at this place. The grounds 
 ascend from the houses in steep acclivities, and every 
 approach to the place presents a very picturesque 
 scene. On one of the slopes, commanding very ex- 
 tensive views, is a mansion, called the Court Lodge, 
 the seat of William Alexander Morland, Esq., part 
 of which was built from the materials brought from 
 Scotney Castle, in the neighbourhood. Near it is 
 the village church, in the vicinity of which is the 
 rectory house, pleasingly embosomed in trees. 
 
 At the south-eastern extremity of this parish is 
 Scotney Castle, partly ancient and partly a modern 
 edifice. A fortress of considerable extent appears 
 to have been erected here as early as the reign of 
 Richard the Second, and is said to have consisted 
 of four round towers, with intermediate buildings, 
 surrounded by a moat, which still remains. Three 
 of the round towers have been taken down ,• but one, 
 with a bold, machicolated parapet, still remains. 
 Connected with it is a mansion, supposed to have 
 been designed by Inigo Jones. This seat, with the 
 adjoining property, was in the possession of the 
 Darell family for above three centuries, up to the year 
 1774. It is now the seat of Hussey, Esq, 
 
 The antiquary, when in this part of the country, 
 
BODIAM — BATTLE ABBEY. 
 
 117 
 
 may be induced to extend his tour to Bodiam Castle, 
 Winchelsea, Battle, Pevensey, and Hurstmonceaux, 
 each and all of which places will afford him objects of 
 varied and deep interest. The Castle of Bodiam 
 is still a fine, imposing mass of feudal military archi- 
 tecture, although it has suffered much by the spoiler 
 Time, but more by assailants. It surrounded a square 
 area, and consisted of four round towers at the angles, 
 with other square towers projecting from the interme- 
 diate walls. Some of these towers have bold machi- 
 colated parapets, particularly those flanking the en- 
 trance-gateway. This approach was guarded by a 
 drawbridge and portcullis, and the whole building 
 was environed with a watered moat. The surround- 
 ing country is lovely beyond description."^ 
 
 Battle Abbey, now the seat of Sir Godfrey 
 Webster, Bart., was founded by King William the 
 Conqueror on the spot where, as fame reports," 
 Harold was killed, when contending against the 
 Norman invaders. It was amply endowed by the 
 king, whose sword, coronation robe, and roll of his 
 principal soldiers and followers, were preserved here. 
 Leland, in the time of Henry VIIL, saw and took 
 a copy of this roll, which Dugdale contends was in- 
 terpolated, and altered by the monks to serve their 
 own purposes. Battle has long been lamed for its 
 
 * Note 1 to " Bodiam Castle; a Poem, in Six Cantos." 8vo. 1818. 
 '* A Graphic and Historical Sketch of BodyamCastle with plan 
 and views, has lately been published by Wm. Cotton, Esq. M.A. 
 
118 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 gunpowder. This part of the island and county is truly 
 historical, if not classical ; for the Norman invaders 
 landed on this coast, and contested the supremacy 
 of the kingdom with the Saxons : here they became 
 victorious, and thus changed the British dynasty. 
 The battle of Hastings, the Bayeaux tapestry, Battle 
 Abbey, &:c. are all memorable in the annals of the 
 nation, and are all associated with this district. 
 
 The ruined and almost deserted town of Win- 
 CHELSEA will furnish the antiquary and topographer 
 with abundant matter for observation and inquiry. 
 Gough, in his additions to Camden's Britannia/' 
 says, the grass which grows in the streets, though 
 paved frequently,^' lets for 4/. a-year, and little more 
 than the skeleton of a regular and handsome town 
 remains. The streets stand all at right angles, and 
 are divided into thirty-two quarters, as they are 
 called. The stone work of three gates is yet stand- 
 ing, and a number of fine vaults, formerly used for 
 warehouses." Here w^as formerly a large and curious 
 church, of which the chancel part only remains, and 
 contains some interesting old monuments. About two 
 miles distant from the town, on the sands of the sea, 
 is a castle, called Camber ^ one of the fortresses built 
 by Henry VIIL to guard the south coast. 
 
 * The punctuation and wording of this sentence make it false 
 and absurd. The writer meant to say, that though the streets are 
 paved, the grass grows in them, and frequently lets or sells for 4/. 
 a-year. 
 
PEVENSEY — HURSTMONCEAUX. 
 
 119 
 
 Pevensey Castle is a very extensive mass of 
 ruins, surrounding two enclosed courts of about seven 
 acres, and consists of several round towers, with in- 
 tervening curtain walls. It is said to be of Roman 
 formation, and some of its masonry certainly appears 
 of Roman workmanship. It is also related that the 
 Normans landed at this place. In the Bayeaux 
 tapestry the word PevensoB occurs. This fortress 
 deserves, and will reward the careful study of the 
 antiquary. About three miles north-east are the 
 remains of 
 
 HuRSTMONCEAUX Castle, a fortrcss very unlike 
 the former, and more peculiarly interesting to the 
 architect. It is built entirely of brick, and was 
 erected by Roger Fiennes, who was treasurer to 
 King Henry VI., and who, like the Lord Treasurers 
 Burley, Audley, &c., must have secured ample funds 
 from their offices to raise stately mansions for them- 
 selves. The building occupied a square area of 
 about 206 by 214 feet. Its angles and side-walls are 
 adorned with towers of varied forms and heights, 
 some of which are octagonal, and surmounted by 
 very bold machicolated parapets. The towers (78 
 feet in height), flanking the entrance-gateway which 
 was guarded by a portcullis and a drawbridge, are 
 particularly grand and imposing : they are semi- 
 octagonal in the two lower divisions, and circular in 
 two others : they rise to a considerable height above 
 the embattled walls. The whole was surrounded 
 
120 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 by a moat."^ Adjoining the building is a well-wooded 
 park. 
 
 About four miles north-east of the Wells is 
 SoMER-HiLL, or Summer-Hill, the seat of J. Alex- 
 ander, Esq., M.P., who purchased the estate in 
 November 1816, from the descendants of William 
 Woodgate, Esq. We have already had occasion to 
 notice this place, in the time of King Charles I. 
 (see p. 23.) Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, 
 obtained this chase, manor, and appurtenances" 
 from his patron. Queen Elizabeth, who afterwards 
 conveyed the same to Frances, Countess of Essex, 
 widow to the high-spirited and unfortunate Earl of 
 Essex. This lady had previously been married to 
 the accomplished Sir Philip Sydney, and subse- 
 quently wedded Richard de Burgh, Earl of Clan- 
 rickard, who was created Baron of Summer Hill, 
 Viscount Tunbridge, and Earl of St. Albans. It 
 was this nobleman who erected the present mansion 
 at Summer Hill, soon after 1600. Some of the leaden 
 spouts have the dates 1611 and 1613 on them. As 
 then constructed, the house must have exhibited a 
 large and fine specimen of the fashionable architec- 
 ture of James's reign ; but it has lost much of its 
 pristine character by the alterations of subsequent 
 occupants. The present possessor has fortunately 
 
 * A very interesting series of plans, elevations, and details of 
 this castle, are given in Pugin's Second Series of" Examples of 
 Gothic Architecture." 4to. 1832. 
 
SUMMER HILL — MABLEDON HOUSE. 121 
 
 consulted a professional gentleman of skill and taste 
 (Mr. Salvin), who is making such improvements as 
 will tend to preserve its original style, and adapt its 
 interior to the comforts and luxuries of an elegant 
 establishment. The house stands in the midst of a 
 well -wooded park, on the brow of a commanding 
 eminence, overlooking the town of Tunbridge and 
 the broad valley in which it stands. Internally, the 
 ground-floor consists of a large hall, 23 by 47 feet, on 
 the right of which is a staircase, also a drawing-room 
 22 by 25 feet, and a noble library, adorned with five 
 bay windows, and eight columns : it has three fire- 
 places, and extends the whole depth of the house — 
 nearly 100 feet. It is executed from the designs of 
 Sir Jeffry Wyatville, and is highly creditable to that 
 gentleman's taste. On the northern side of the hall 
 is a spacious dining-room, measuring 22 by 33 feet, 
 adjoining which are private rooms communicating 
 with the domestic offices. 
 
 On Quarry Hill, about one mile south of Tun- 
 bridge, is Mahledon Housej a handsome modern 
 mansion, erected, about twenty-five years back, by 
 James Burton, Esq. It was purchased by John 
 Deacon, Esq., in 1828; and since that time it has 
 been much enlarged and improved, from the designs 
 of Decimus Burton, Esq. The house occupies the 
 apex of a lofty hill, a great part of which is adorned 
 with grand masses of wood. The grounds are very 
 abrupt and diversified. Part of the exterior walls 
 
 G 
 
122 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 of the house was brought from the ruins of Pens- 
 hurst Place, and the new walls have been stained 
 and worked to match the old materials. The interior 
 is spacious, and finished and fitted up with every 
 comfort for a gentleman's family. 
 
 SouTHBOROUGH is a plcasiug scattered hamlet, 
 having its houses and new church dispersed around 
 the border of an open common, or green, on which 
 are some very fine old oaks. The church, finished in 
 1830, from the designs of Mr. D. Burton, is a plain, 
 neat edifice, manifesting, by its unpinnacled, and 
 apparently unfinished tower, the limited funds that 
 were appropriated for its erection. In this, as on 
 many other modern sacred edifices, is displayed 
 the mistaken economy of modern church builders, 
 when compared with the emulous and patriotic 
 monks of former times. Whilst the works of those 
 have stood for centuries, and secured the admi- 
 ration of all men of science and taste, many of 
 the new buildings will not remain entire for one 
 hundred years, nor will they deserve the praise of 
 any impartial critic. The architect, however, is not 
 always to blame on these occasions ; the error belongs 
 to the uninformed commissioners, who fancy cheap- 
 ness to be economy, and who too often put a straight- 
 waistcoat on talent and taste. I 
 
 Adjoining Southborough is Great Bounds, the 
 seat of the Rev. Sir Charles Harding, Bart., who 
 
GREAT BOUNDS — TUNBRIDGE. 
 
 123 
 
 purchased it very recently of Lord Caledon. Part 
 of the present mansion appears to be of the age of 
 Queen Elizabeth, whose armorial bearings are affixed 
 against one end of it. Henry Gary, Lord Hunsdon, 
 who was a relative of the Maiden Queen/^ obtained 
 Great Bounds from that monarch, and bequeathed it 
 to his son, George. Whilst it belonged to the late 
 Chief Baron Smythe, it was often visited by the 
 venerable Earl Mansfield, of whom some notice has 
 already been taken. The grandfather of the baron was 
 married to Lady Dorothea Sydney, of whom Waller 
 wrote some frivolous verses, addressing her by the 
 name of Sacharissa. A few years back it was occu- 
 pied by Lord Henry Petty, now Marquess of Lans- 
 downe. The house has several very large bay windows, 
 and a gabled roof. It stands in a park of about 120 
 acres, which exhibits various scenery, and commands 
 some extensive and diversified prospects. At the 
 western extremity of the grounds is the truly rural 
 church of Bidborough, seated on the brow of an 
 eminence. In the churchyard is a sarcophagus, 
 executed by Bacon, to the memory of Baron de Roll, 
 who died at Bounds, Aug. 27, 1813. 
 
 The town of Tunbridge, with its castle, school- 
 house, priory, church, &c. would detain and occupy 
 the topographer for a considerable length of time, 
 were he to enter into the history of each, and attempt 
 to narrate the most essential facts belonging to all. 
 It must suffice, on this occasion, to remark, that the 
 
124 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 town most likely grew around, and was subordinate 
 to the castle, and that Ricard de Tonebridge held the 
 whole at the time of the Domesday Survey. He was 
 a Norman, a kinsman of the Conqueror, came into 
 England with the invaders, and was bountifully re- 
 warded by his uncle, who created him Earl of Clare, 
 and settled several lordships upon him. Dugdale, 
 in his Baronage," (vol. i. p. 207), asserts, that De 
 Tonebridge exchanged his lands at By on" in Nor- 
 mandy with the Archbishop of Canterbury, for a tract 
 of equal extent at Tunbridge. Here, it is said, he 
 erected a castle, and congregated his retainers and 
 vassals. These were all called into active service 
 soon after the death of William I., for Earl Richard 
 espoused the cause of Robert Curtoise, in opposition 
 to William Rufus, who had seized the crown. The 
 latter immediately marched an army to Tunbridge, to 
 compel obedience and allegiance of his relative, and 
 the earl, after a short struggle, was compelled to sub- 
 mit. Frequent contests occurred between the lords 
 of this castle and the prelates of Canterbury, from 
 the time of the haughty and tyrannic Becket till 
 the reign of Henry III., when it was agreed that the 
 Earls of Clare should hold Tunbridge and its 
 Lowy," I. e. liberty, or certain district round the 
 town — " by the grand sergeantcy of being chief 
 butlers and high stewards at the instalments of the 
 metropolitans, and grant them wardship of their 
 children." On such occasions the butler was to 
 receive seven robes of scarlet, thirty gallons of wine. 
 
TUNBRIDGE CASTLE. 
 
 125 
 
 fifty pounds of wax, for his own lights at the feast, 
 the Hvery of hay and corn for eighty horses for two 
 nights, and the dishes and salts placed before the 
 prelate at the first course of the feast, &c. These 
 services and conditions remained in force till the 
 fourteenth century, when they were compounded for 
 a sum of money, generally 200 marks. Up to the 
 time of Henry VIII. this office of steward was held 
 by Edward Duke of Buckingham. These circum- 
 stances serve to exemplify some of the customs of 
 former times, and intimate the connexion and de- 
 pendence subsisting between Tunbridge Castle and 
 the metropolitan see. The history of this fortress 
 embraces accounts of sieges, burnings, sappings, 
 slaughter; events belonging to and characteristic of 
 times when a sort of demi- civilisation prevailed' — 
 when the ecclesiastics and barons were contending 
 for supremacy over each other, and when the bulk of 
 the people were enslaved and impoverished. 
 
 Of this once proud, commanding castle, only some 
 dilapidated and almost undefinable fragments remain. 
 These are seated on the northern bank of the river, 
 which was formerly made to flow not only around 
 the whole in a broad moat, but also around the base 
 of the keep-tower. The exterior walls enclosed an 
 area of about six acres, within which was an outer 
 and inner ballium, surrounded by various buildings, 
 appropriated to the garrison. Part of the outer walls 
 remain ; also the lower portion of the water-tower, 
 the mound of the keep, and the towered entrance 
 
126 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 gate-house. The latter still displays some fine and 
 interesting features of the ancient mode of fortifying 
 the baronial castles of former times. Flanking an 
 arched gateway are two large massive towers^ with 
 walls of great thickness, and having no other exte- 
 rior apertures than long, narrow slits, with circular 
 holes at the bottoms. These were called oiletSy and 
 were used by archers, through which to discharge 
 their arrows. Three, four, or more of these were 
 generally formed in each room, to command the ap- 
 proaches from the centre, and also laterally, whereby 
 the occupants might annoy assailants, either directly 
 in front, or flanking the walls. In front of this en- 
 trance there was formerly a drawbridge thrown 
 across the moat, and raised at pleasure, when it 
 constituted a strong door, closing up the archway. 
 This opening was again guarded by two portcullises, 
 let down from above, and two thick doors extending 
 across the entrance. Beneath the archway, and about 
 mid-way between the exterior and interior faces of 
 the towers, are doorways, having portcullises commu- 
 nicating to apartments in each tower. The towers 
 appear to have been divided into four stories or floors, 
 the lower being dungeons or prisons, and the upper 
 formed into a large and noble hall, extending the 
 whole width and depth of the two towers. It was 
 lighted by two large windows, with pointed arches 
 and mullions, towards the inner ballium. It had 
 communications with two staircase-turrets, and thence 
 to the flanking walls, keep, &c. From the style of 
 
TUNBRIDGE CASTLE. 
 
 127 
 
 these windows, and architecture of the towers, Mr. 
 King contends that this part of the castle was 
 raised in the time of King John, or Henry III. 
 There is not any appearance of glazing to the win- 
 dows, but they had iron bars. There was a fire- 
 place and chimney in the hall, between the windows. 
 The floor of this room was of immense strength, as 
 was the ceiling above, which, Mr. King says, was 
 three feet thick, to carry war-machines and soldiers. 
 There were four narrow loop or arrow apertures 
 through the walls, two towards the front, and the 
 other two laterally. The portcullis which guarded 
 the exterior archway, was drawn up to and had 
 communication with this floor. Branching off from 
 the tower-entrance are curtain-walls, to the right 
 and left; the first extending to and up the side of 
 a lofty conical mound, which sustained the keep- 
 tower, or chief residence of the baron. To this, it 
 is presumed, he retreated when other parts of his 
 castle were taken by an enemy. The upper area of 
 this mound measures about 76 by 86 feet. Another 
 wall, with stairs in it, descended hence to a circular 
 tower, and thence continued at right angles on the 
 bank of the river to another circular tower, where 
 there is an obtuse angle in the wall, which returns 
 circuitously to the entrance gate-house. 
 
 Of the Priory at Tunbridge, only a small frag- 
 ment remains. The Church, though large, and in a 
 respectable state internally, has little of architectural 
 character or beauty to engage the antiquary. It con- 
 tains many monumental memorials, some of which. 
 
128 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 and the persons commemorated, are entitled to the 
 respectful notice of the topographer ; but want of space 
 prevents my dilating on these topics at present. 
 
 The celebrated Free Grammar School of Tun- 
 bridge is an object of too much public and local 
 importance to be passed without record, and some 
 comment. A large mass of building, partly new, 
 but assuming the olden style, attracts the curiosity 
 of the traveller as he enters the town from the 
 north. It is the school-room, the master's house, 
 the dormitories for scholars, &c. This school de- 
 rives its establishment and chief support from the 
 bequest of Sir Andrew Judde, Knt., a native of 
 Tunbridge, who, living in an age when activity, 
 honesty, and perseverance, were generally, if not 
 always, rewarded with fortune, was advanced to 
 the mayoralty of London, acquired wealth, and be- 
 queathed part of his riches to found and support 
 a public academy at this place. By his will, dated 
 Sept. 2, 1558, he devised certain lands there, with 
 others in the parishes of St. Pancras,^ and mes- 
 
 * The land of this parish being his croft of pasture, called 
 the Sandhills, on the back-side of Holborn," which probably let for 
 a few pounds at the time of the testator's decease, is now wholly 
 covered with houses, the ground-rents of which amount to several 
 hundreds a-year. The writer of this volume occupies a small piece 
 of it, measuring 144 feet wide by 54 feet deep, for which he pays a 
 ground-rent of 25 guineas yearly. At the expiration of the present 
 leases, about 70 years, the rental of this estate alone will amount to 
 above 20,000/. a-year — a vast income for a public school ! Many 
 of the streets on this estate are named from places at and near 
 Tunbridge, — such as Tunbridge Place, Judd Street, Bidborough 
 Square, Mabledon Place, Speldhurst Street, Leigh Street, &c. 
 
TUNBRIDGE SCHOOL. 
 
 129 
 
 suages in AUhallows, St. Lawrence Pountney, St. 
 Peter's, and St. Helen's, in London, in trust to the 
 Skinner's Company, for the perpetual maintenance 
 of the school and masters, and for the free education 
 of boys of the town and adjacent country. The com- 
 pany was to call in the aid of the warden and fellows 
 of the college of All Saints, Oxford, to make whole- 
 some statutes, touching the school and its revenues, 
 the salaries of masters," &:c.^ According to a state- 
 ment of the clerk of the Skinner's Company to the 
 Parliamentary Commissioners, a few years back, 
 the annual rental of the school estates amounted to 
 4578?. \s, 6d. : with this fine income, however, only 
 six boys, upon an average, have been educated for the 
 last fourscore years. The Rev. Thos. Knox, D.D., 
 son of Dr. Vicesimus Knox,t is the present head 
 master. A well -written Account of Tunbridge 
 School/' in 8vo, at 2^. 6d., was published in 1827. 
 
 * The scholars of Tunbridge have the following exhibitions and 
 fellowships : — A fellowship to St. John's College, Oxford. Sivteen 
 exhibitions of 100/. per annum each, tenable to any college, at 
 either University. Six exhibitions, of lOZ. per annum each, in like 
 manner. One scholarship, of 17/. 9s. ^d. per annum, to Brazen- 
 nose College, Oxford. One exhibition, of 2/. l'6s. 4(1. per annum. 
 One exhibition, of 8/. per annum. Tivo exhibitions, of 75l. per 
 annum each, tenable at Jesus' College, Cambridge. 2 wo exhlbi-^ 
 tions, of 6/. per annum each, at St. John's College, Cambridge. 
 
 t This amiable man, learned scholar, accomplished writer, 
 and judicious preceptor of youth, was master of the school for 
 some years, and gave it at once fame and usefulness by his talents 
 and exertions. His treatise on " Liberal Education,'^ his " Essays 
 Moral and Literary, his " Winter Evenings,'^ and other pub- 
 lished writings, are evidences of a highly cultivated mind, of 
 
 G 2 
 
130 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 About six miles n.w. of the Wells is Penshurst 
 Place, the memorable, the once splendid, but now 
 sadly dilapidated mansion of the Sydneys. This seat 
 has been the natal home of poetry, romance, patriot- 
 ism — the theatre of sumptuous hospitality — the abode 
 of chivalry, and the resting-place of virtue and of 
 honour. Charlotte Smith, the plaintive and pathetic 
 novelist and dramatist, thus apostrophised Penshurst 
 Place in 1788: 
 
 " Ye towers sublime, deserted now and drear ! 
 Ye woods deep sighing to the hollow blast ! 
 The musing wand'rer loves to linger near, 
 While History points to all your glories past. 
 
 * * * 
 
 The spoiling hand of Time may overturn 
 
 These lofty battlements, and quite deface 
 The fading canvass, whence we love to learn 
 Sydney's keen look, and Sacharissa's grace; 
 But fame and beauty still defy decay, 
 Sav'd by the historic page — the poet's tender lay.'' 
 
 Other poets, essayists, and topographers, have poured 
 forth their feelings and sentiments on this place ; for 
 
 an amiable heart, and of genuine benevolence. Such a man was 
 calculated to awaken and call into action all the latent energies of 
 Edm. D. Clarke, his pupil, and to deserve the following tribute from 
 the " Edinburgh Review," (No. 87). Dr. Knox was a man to 
 be praised as often as he is named, for his literary accomplish- 
 ments, and yet more to be respected for the rare independence 
 of mind which he ever displayed, and his steady adherence through 
 the worst of times to the cause of liberty." Such men tend to 
 ennoble the human race ; they reflect honour on their families, con- 
 nexions, and country, and have done more to promote the real 
 welfare of their country than all the generals and prime ministers 
 that ever lived. 
 
PENSIIURST PLACE. 
 
 131 
 
 the abode of talent ever awakens sympathy : living 
 genius loves the haunts of its departed kind ; it is, 
 however, the attribute of genius never to die — Lite- 
 rature renders it immortal. It is a melancholy but 
 spirit-stirring pleasure to review and examine all the 
 varied features of a large mansion, like Penshurst 
 Place — to call up and bring before the mental 
 mirror, in personal, moral, and intellectual review, 
 the wwthies of past ages — the observed of all 
 observers" — the gallants, the heroes, the beauties 
 — the chivalrous, the high-minded, and the heroic,, 
 who won and wore the garlands of conquest — the- 
 encomiums of poets — the confidence and esteem of 
 princes. Such are the characters belonging to Pens- 
 hurst ; and to do common justice to them, and to 
 the local history of the place, would occupy a larger 
 volume than the present, whereas I can spare only a 
 few pages. 
 
 The manor was possessed by the Pencestres, or 
 Penchesters, early in the Norman dynasty, of whom 
 was Sir Stephen de Penchester, who was constable 
 of Dover Castle in the reigns of Henry III. and 
 Edward I. He caused the muniments of that famous 
 fortress to be fairly written in a book called Cas- 
 telli Feodarium,^' from which Darell composed his 
 History of Dover Castle." In the 15th of Ed- 
 ward II. Sir John de Poultney, the then possessor 
 of Penshurst, obtained a license to embattle his man- 
 sion. He was four times lord mayor of London, and 
 was noted for his public charities, magnificent house- 
 
132 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 keeping, and splendid buildings. This property, after 
 passing through different families, became vested in 
 the Regent Duke of Bedford, from whom it descended 
 to Humphry the Good/' Duke of Gloucester. From 
 him it devolved to the king, who granted it to the 
 Staffords. Edward Duke of Buckingham being 
 attainted, Penshurst and his other property became 
 forfeited to the crown. Henry VIII. retained this 
 estate for some years, and extended the park. It is 
 presumed, that whilst residing here he became ac- 
 quainted with Anne BuUen, then living with her 
 father at Haver Castle in this neighbourhood. King 
 Edward VI. granted Penshurst to Sir William Syd- 
 ney, one of the heroes of Flodden Field, who had 
 been the prince's tutor, chamberlain, and steward 
 of the household, from his birth to his coronation. 
 Dying in 1553, at the age of 70, his property de- 
 scended to his son and heir. Sir Henry Sydney, a 
 learned and accomplished knight, in whose arms the 
 youthful monarch expired. Grieved at this event, 
 he retired to Penshurst, where he sheltered and pro- 
 tected his ruined father-in-law, the great and miser- 
 able John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland,^ and 
 his family. He enjoyed the confidence, and was 
 employed by Queen Elizabeth, and died at Ludlow 
 Castle, whilst president of the Welsh Marches. His 
 body was conveyed to, and buried by the queen's 
 
 * Lodge's " Illustrious Portraits," in which is a portrait and 
 a very interesting Memoir of Sir Philip ; also, others of Algernon 
 Sydney, and other members of the family. 
 
PENSHURST PLACE. 
 
 138 
 
 order at Penshurst. He left three sons and a 
 daughter, of whom Sir Philip, Sir Robert, and Mary, 
 are distinguished in the historic and poetic annals 
 of the nation. Mary became Countess of Pembroke, 
 and is celebrated in Sir Philip's Arcadia," as well 
 as in the often -repeated epitaph on her by Ben 
 Jonson. Sir Philip was a native of this place, where 
 he was born Nov. 29, 1554, and of whom my esteemed 
 friend Mr. Lodge says, that his spirit was too high 
 for the court, and his integrity too stubborn for the 
 cabinet. Elizabeth, who always expected implicit 
 submission, could not long have endured such a ser- 
 vant ; yet he occasionally advised her with the utmost 
 freedom, and she received his counsel with gentle- 
 ness." Sir Philip was author of several works, 
 which have been collected into three volumes octavo, 
 of which the 14th edition! ! appeared in 1725. They 
 consist of the " Arcadia," the Defence of Poesy," 
 Astrophel and Stella," the ^' Remedy of Love," 
 Sonnets," &c., the " Lady of May, a Masque," &c, 
 Oldys, in his MS. additions to Winstanley's Lives," 
 asserts, that he could muster up 200 authors who 
 had spoken in praise of Sir Philip Sydney." Wal- 
 pole speaks slightingly of his talents, and few critics 
 of the present age will be likely to read many pages 
 of his writings. Dr. Zouch wrote a Life" of Sir 
 Philip, published in 4to, 1808. At the battle of 
 Zutphen, Sept. 1576, in the Low Countries, he re- 
 ceived a mortal wound ; and it is related that, whilst 
 in the agonies of death, he perceived one of the com- 
 
134 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 mon soldiers also in a dying state, and calling out 
 for water, when he ordered the cup to be taken 
 from his own lips, to allay the parching thirst of 
 the exhausted private. His brother, Sir Robert 
 Sydney, succeeded, and obtained from King James 
 the title of Lord Sydney, of Penshurst," and was 
 afterwards created Earl of Leicester. Robert, his 
 son and heir, succeeded in 1626 ; and after spending 
 some time in foreign courts, settled at Penshurst, 
 where he died in 1677, in his 82d year. Among 
 his fourteen children was the celebrated Algernon^ 
 who was implicated in the Rye-house Plot, and ille- 
 gally put to death in 1683. One of his daughters, 
 afterwards Countess of Sunderland, was the famed 
 Sacharissa of Waller. Penshurst continued to be 
 inhabited by the Sydneys up to July 1743, when 
 Jocelyn, the last Earl of Leicester of this family, 
 died without legitimate issue, and disputes and liti- 
 gation afterwards ensued. Lawyers and heralds may 
 endeavour to reconcile and settle the relative merits 
 and virtues of illegitimate progeny and questionable 
 genealogy, but such subjects shall not occupy any 
 of our pages. Sir John Shelley Sydney is the pre- 
 sent proprietor of the place, by female line. In 
 Jan. 1782, a trial on a writ of right'' was decided 
 in the Court of Common Pleas relating to the pro- 
 perty and title of the Sydneys. 
 
 The mansion of Penshurst has been a very large 
 
 * The late Mr. West painted a very fine picture of this scene. 
 
PENSHURST PLACE. 
 
 135 
 
 and imposing pile of building, bounding three sides 
 of a square court, and with other courts enclosed by 
 walls. It is evidently of different eras of construc- 
 tion, part being as old as Edward II., when Sir John 
 de Poultney obtained a license to embattle this man- 
 sion. There are other parts of the building as late 
 as King Charles's reign, and considerable alterations 
 and additions have recently been made, and are now 
 making, from the designs of Mr. Rebecca. Inscrip- 
 tions and armorial bearings on different parts of the 
 building, point out the respective ages of those 
 several portions. Over the principal entrance, to- 
 wards the north, is a coat of arms, with an in- 
 scription, stating, that Edward VI. ''gave this house 
 of Pencester, with the mannors^ lands^ and appur- 
 tenances, unto Sir William Sydney, Knt. Banner et,^^ 
 To commemorate which event and monarch, '' Sir 
 Henry Sydney, of the most noble Order of the Gar- 
 ter, Sfc. caused this toiver to he huilded, A,D, 1585." 
 On a wall near the north-west angle is another coat 
 of arms, with an inscription, recording the titles of Sir 
 Henry Sydney, and the date of 1579. Other armo- 
 rial bearings and inscriptions are inserted in different 
 parts of the walls ; for Sir Henry Sydney was ambi- 
 tious of leaving some permanent record behind him 
 of his titles, alliances, &c. 
 
 Without a ground-plan, it will be impossible to 
 convey to the reader any correct idea of the arrange- 
 ment and extent of the present mass of buildings, or 
 define what the mansion was when in its greatest 
 
136 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 magnitude and splendour. It has covered a large 
 area, and has evidently been the designs and work- 
 manship of different periods. Mr. Carter, who visited 
 Penshurst in 1805, said, he could readily recognise 
 the architectural characteristics of the reigns of 
 Henry II., Richard III., Henry VIII., Elizabeth, 
 James I., and Georges II. and III. The designs of 
 the first three monarchs have their distinct and 
 specific features and characters, whilst those of the 
 last four have such grotesque and fantastic anoma- 
 lies, that they lose all style, date, and congruity. 
 A long range of rooms extends east and west, with 
 a northern aspect, in which was the principal front, 
 and near the centre was the entrance gate-house, or 
 porter's lodge. This communicated to a quadran- 
 gular court, having a raised terrace to the west, 
 where the chapel and some other buildings are said 
 to have stood. On the opposite side were the domes- 
 tic offices, most of which were taken down about 
 twenty-five years ago. The south side of the court 
 is occupied by the fine old baronial hall, which, 
 though disfigured and mutilated, is still an apart- 
 ment of magnitude and architectural interest. It 
 measures about 60 feet in length by nearly 40 in 
 width, and at least 60 in height. It is open to the 
 roof, where there was an open louvre or lantern, for 
 ventilation. Beneath it, on the floor, is the original 
 fire-hearth, wath a large and-iron for sustaining the 
 blazing log. At the upper end of the hall was placed 
 the lord's table, on a raised dies or platform, with 
 
PENSHURST PLACE. 
 
 I3t 
 
 an oriel at the side, which has been converted into 
 a staircase to upper rooms. At the opposite side 
 of the room is a screen and a minstrel's gallery, 
 beneath which is a corridor, and three arched door- 
 ways to the kitchen, buttery, parlour, &c. Exterior 
 of this corridor is a vaulted porch, with a beautiful 
 door-way, and a large old door. A circular stair- 
 case communicated with the gallery, roof, and a 
 room over the porch. On each side of the hall are 
 lofty and beautifully formed windows, with a stone 
 muUion in the centre, and with singular but well- 
 disposed tracery in the arch. The sills of these 
 windows are very near the floor, an unusual occur- 
 rence in such halls. The floor is composed of small 
 bricks or tiles, and beneath the whole is a very fine 
 crypt or vault. At the upper end of the hall is a 
 silly painting, representing on the wall a continuation 
 of the room. 
 
 A house that has been so long deserted by its 
 masters must exhibit various evidences of ruin and 
 decay. Not only walls, roofs, and timbers, but the 
 interior furniture and ornaments are assailed by 
 moth, rust, and other destructive operations. There 
 were formerly some curious and valuable pictures, 
 books, and manuscripts ; but whilst part of these 
 have been taken away by unlawful hands, others 
 have suffered by the slow, but certain effects of time 
 and neglect. 
 
 In the park is a heronry, and also a fine large 
 old oak-tree, said to have been planted at Sir Philip 
 
138 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Sydney's birth. Its bole measures about 28 feet in 
 circumference. 
 
 When Mr. Carter visited Penshurst, in 1805, the 
 house was unoccupied, and its interior shewn to 
 visitors by an old servant, who lived at a cottage in 
 the park. Such was also the case when I examined 
 the building and its contents in 1831. That such a 
 mansion, of whose inmates some had been decapitated, 
 some slain in the field of battle, and some experienced 
 untimely deaths, should be associated with ghost 
 stories, is but reasonable and appropriate. The human 
 mind, whether cultivated or illiterate, seems prone to 
 indulge such fantasies. They serve to embellish, and 
 give a sombre, thrilling charm to the realities of decay 
 — to dilapidations — to the ruins of former ages. 
 
 On the south side of the house is Penshurst 
 Church, a clean, respectable edifice, with a hand- 
 some tower at the west end, a chantry chapel, and 
 vault, at the south-east angle, appropriated to the 
 Sydneys. Several members of the family have been 
 interred here, and tresses and monumental tablets 
 record their names, and dates of death. 
 
 At the northern extremity of Penshurst Park is 
 Red Leaf, a seat formerly belonging to the Spencers, 
 from whom it was devised to the Harveys, of Tun- 
 bridge ; and was purchased a few years since by 
 William Wells, Esq. This gentleman, partial^ to 
 works of art, has a valuable collection of ancient and 
 modern paintings. 
 
HEVER CASTLE. 
 
 139 
 
 South Park, about one mile from Penshurst, is 
 a modern house, built on a commanding eminence in 
 the midst of a well-wooded park. 
 
 At Pound's Bridge, in Penshurst parish, is an 
 old timber-house, with gables, barge-boards, &c., 
 which, by a date on its fronts appears to have been 
 erected in 1 595. 
 
 Hever Castle, about four miles north-west of 
 Penshurst, claims the attention of the historian and 
 antiquary, from the public incidents and personages 
 connected with it, and also from the architectural 
 character of the domestic fortress, which still remains. 
 It consists of a large mass of building, with buttresses, 
 square towers, embrasures, square windows, and a 
 watered moat, all of which are evidences of its former 
 appropriation. This castellated mansion was built in 
 the time of King Edward III., by William de 
 Hever, who obtained a license from the monarch to 
 embattle and crenellate it. In the reign of King 
 Henry VI., Sir Geoffry Bullen, a merchant of Lon- 
 don, became possessed of the place. His grandson 
 was father of the unfortunate Ann Bullen, or Boleyn, 
 one of the murdered wives of that royal Nero, Henry 
 VIII., whose name and memory must be held in 
 eternal contempt and abhorrence. He not only 
 married this unfortunate young lady, but obtained 
 the castle and estate ; and, strange to say, he granted 
 them to another queen, Anne of Cleves, whom he 
 repudiated, in the thirty-second year of his reign. 
 
140 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Sir Edward Waldegrave afterwards purchased the 
 estate of the crown. It is now the property of 
 Miss Waldo ; and Mr. Robinson, architect, of Lon- 
 don, has fitted up some apartments in the castle for 
 that lady's residence. 
 
 In the vicinity is a mansion, partly new and partly 
 old, at Chiddingstone, belonging to Henry Streat- 
 field, Esq. The village exhibits a series of very pic- 
 turesque cottages, with beautiful scenery around. 
 
 In the parish of Hartfield, about eight miles west of 
 the Wells, is Bolebroke House, or Castle, formerly 
 a seat of the Sackvilles, who had their chief mansion 
 at Buckhurst, in the vicinity. This edifice at Bolebroke 
 was built about the middle of the fifteenth century, 
 and was constructed almost wholly of brick. Two 
 semioctagonal towers, surmounted with cupolas, flank- 
 ing an arched entrance, still remain, and also other 
 parts of the edifice. 
 
 Buckhurst, formerly a magnificent seat of the 
 Sackvilles, like many other ancient residences of the 
 old nobility, has lost nearly the whole of its once 
 noble and dignified character ; its park being di- 
 vided and farmed, and its mansion nearly levelled 
 and desecrated. A solitary tower-gateway remains 
 to indicate the style of the house ; and a ground plan 
 of the whole is preserved among a collection of 
 drawings, by John Thorpe, in the possession of Sir 
 John Soane, by which the extent and arrangement 
 
BUCKHURST. 
 
 141 
 
 may be understood. It appears from this to have 
 been a large square mansion, covering an area of 
 about 250 by 200 feet. It was placed at the edge of 
 a steep hill, having a moat with a bridge, and a broad 
 terrace on one side. In front was a tower-gateway, 
 with lodging for the porter ; and on each side were 
 several apartments for noblemen's lodgings, with gal- 
 leries over them, — one side being appropriated for 
 my lord" and the other for my lady." The whole 
 surrounded a square court, and there were other 
 smaller courts. At the four corners were staircase- 
 towers, and square bay-windows projected from the 
 walls. One end was devoted to the great hall, the 
 chapel, the kitchen, with pantry, butler's lodging, 
 buttery, &c. A garden and orchard occupied this and 
 another side of the house. The history of this place, 
 and of its illustrious occupants, with the various 
 biographical and public anecdotes connected with 
 them, would lead us into an extensive narrative, were 
 they to be detailed : suffice it to remark, that Buck- 
 hurst attained its zenith and decline in the time of 
 the first Earl of Dorset, lord treasurer to Queen 
 Elizabeth, who, according to Camden, being equally 
 eminent for prudence and nobility," found it incom- 
 patible with his public duties to travel so far from 
 London as twenty-eight miles, through fowle 
 ways," and therefore obtained from his royal mistress 
 a grant of Knole, in Kent. He continued to possess 
 Buckhurst with the new seat ; also Horsley House, 
 in Surrey ; Lord's Place, in Lewes ; and Bolebroke. 
 Buckhurst being deserted, the greater part of tha 
 
142 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 house was taken down, and its materials conveyed to 
 East Grinstead, where a college, or hospital, was 
 built by Richard, the third earl of Dorset. In the 
 church of Withyham are some monuments of the 
 Sackvilles, eminently entitled to the notice of the 
 antiquary and artist. The scenery of the surrounding 
 country is peculiarly picturesque and interesting. 
 
 In this parish is Stoneland Park, or Buckhurst 
 Park, one of the seats of the Sackville family. The 
 house assumes the Elizabethan character, and is 
 said to have been built from the designs of Thorpe, 
 the architect of the mansion already named ; but this 
 is not very likely. 
 
 Whilst in this part of the country, the devoted an- 
 tiquary and lover of the picturesque may be induced 
 to extend his tour to 
 
 Brambletye House, a mansion and country 
 rendered highly popular and interesting by the 
 vivid descriptive pictures which Horace Smith 
 has perpetuated, in his fascinating historical novel 
 of Brambletye House." Of this once noble 
 mansion only some dilapidated walls and towers 
 remain; but these serve to mark the architectural 
 style of the building, which was raised by Sir 
 Henry Compton, in the time of King James I. 
 
 Within two hundred years the mansion has been 
 erected ; by turns the seat of baronial hospitality and 
 civil feud — the best and basest feelings of mankind — 
 the loyalty of cavaliers^ the fanatic outrage of Round- 
 
BRAMBLETYE HOUSE. 
 
 143 
 
 heads, and ultimately of wanton destruction. The 
 gate through which Colonel Lilburne and his men 
 entered was blocked up with a hurdle ; and the 
 court-yard, in which he marshalled his forces, 
 covered with high-flourishing grass : the towers have 
 become mere shells ; but the vaults, once stowed with 
 luxuries and weapons, still retain much of their 
 original freshness. What a contrast between those 
 few wrecks of turbulent times and the peaceful scene 
 by which they are surrounded, — a farm and two 
 water-mills ; on one side displaying the stormy 
 conflict of passion and petty desolation, and on the 
 other the smiling attributes of human industry!"'^' 
 Oil this subject, and the wildly romantic scenery 
 of Ashdown forest, I could gladly dwell, and indulge 
 in creating contrasted pictures of past and present 
 events. 
 
 " Cameleon Sketches/^ by J. Timbs, the eloquent editor 
 of the weekly periodical, " The Mirror," who, in the little volume 
 referred to, has evinced a truly literary mind, united with a good 
 heart. 
 
144 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 Ill a preceding part of this volume (p. 11), I pro- 
 mised some account of Knole Park, and very much 
 regret that I cannot indulge myself in writing such 
 a history and description of this very interesting 
 mansion and demesne as the subject demands. The 
 whole is replete with historic fame ; as embracing a 
 review of the manorial descent, through many dis- 
 tinguished nobles, prelates, and commoners ; biogra- 
 phical anecdotes of some of these, with accounts of 
 the arts, customs, manners, &c. of remote times ; also, 
 a description of the mansion, and of the fine park in 
 which it is seated. Two volumes have already been 
 devoted to the annals of this seat ; ^ besides copious 
 accounts in Hasted's History of Kent," and in the 
 ^' Beauties of England," by my old friend and literary 
 partner, Mr. Brayley. These accounts inform us 
 that the manor was possessed, in the reign of King 
 John, by Falcatius de Brent, and that it was successively 
 transferred to William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, 
 Roger i»Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, Otho de Grandison, 
 temp, Edward I., Sir Geoffrey de Say, temp. Edward 
 III., Raufe Leghe, temp. Henry VI., who sold it to 
 
 * These are : 1 . " Biographical Sketches of Eminent Persons 
 whose Portraits form part of the Duke of Dorset's Collection at 
 Knole, with a brief Description of the Place, embellished with a 
 front and east view of Knole.'^ 8vo, 1795. This was written 
 by Henry Norton Willis, Esq., and contains accounts of thirty- 
 nine persons. 2. " An Historical and Topographical Sketch 
 of Knole, in Kent; with a brief Genealogy of the Sackville 
 Family. Embellished with Engravings. By John Bridgman/^ 
 8vo, J 81 7. 
 
KNOLE PAIrK. 
 
 145 
 
 the Fienneses, Lords Say and Seale, the second of 
 whom again disposed of it, for 400 marks, to Thomas 
 Bourchier, Archbishop of Canterbury, with all the 
 tymbre, wood, ledde, stone, and breke, lying within 
 the said manor at the quarry in Scale." Hence- 
 forward it continued for some years the chief seat of 
 the archbishops, and was visited by Henries VII. and 
 VIII. Cranmer relinquished this, with other property 
 belonging to the metropolitan see, to the monarch, 
 and Knole was subsequently granted to the Protector 
 Somerset. John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, was the 
 next possessor. Queen Mary granted it to her kins- 
 man. Cardinal Pole, and Queen Elizabeth conferred 
 it on Robert, Earl of Leicester. Thomas Sackville, 
 Baron Buckhurst, afterwards created Earl of Dorset, 
 who became its proprietor in 1603, was a poet, an 
 ambassador, and a statesman of great fame. He died 
 whilst sitting at the council-board, in 1608, having 
 previously made great alterations and improvements 
 at Knole. It is said that he constantly employed 200 
 workmen. The leaden spouts and the carved screen 
 in the hall, have his arms, and the dates of 1605 and 
 1607. His grandson Richard, the third Earl, who 
 married the celebrated Anne Clifford, wasted his 
 fortune by extravagance, and sold Knole, with other 
 property. Richard, the fifth Earl of Dorset, re- 
 
 * " Hasted's Kent,'^ Bvo, vol. iii. p. 65. From this passage in 
 the deed, it seems that the Lords Say and Seale had intended to 
 re-edify the mansion at Knole, which was afterwards executed by 
 the Lord Archbishop. 
 
 H 
 
146 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 purchased this place, which has ever since continued 
 in the same illustrious family. 
 
 The mansion of Knole, seated on high ground, 
 in the midst of a noble and greatly diversified park, 
 is an immense pile of building, said to cover an area 
 of five acres. The buildings surround three square 
 courts, and are divided into numerous small apart- 
 ments, as v^as the fashion in former times. By 
 modern alterations, some handsome and spacious 
 rooms have been formed, and fitted up in a style 
 suited to a ducal mansion. Although there is an 
 apparent unity and symmetry in the whole design, 
 it is evidently the workmanship of different and 
 remote dates. The greatest part is of Archbishop 
 Bourchier's time (about 1480) ; but there is some 
 portion which the author of Biographical Sketches'^ 
 says is of the age of the Marshalls and Bigods," 
 whilst the latest is of the time of James I., by the first 
 Earl of Dorset. 
 
 Knole has long been distinguished in the annals 
 of the fine arts for its extensive and interesting assem- 
 blage of pictures, several of which are from the fasci- 
 nating pencil of Sir Joshua Reynolds. There are, 
 however, others by the most eminent Italian, Venetian, 
 Flemish, and Dutch artists. The dining, or poefs 
 parlour y is adorned with a series of portraits of the 
 most eminent English poets, among whom the im- 
 mortal William Pitt" is very strangely associated. 
 Some of these are by Sir Joshua, others by Gains- 
 borough ; and whilst they excite our admiration as 
 
KNOLE PARK. 
 
 147 
 
 works of art, they awaken the warmest feelings of 
 sympathy and esteem for the literary worthies they 
 portray. 
 
 The extent of the household, as well as the appro- 
 priations of some of the rooms at Knole, from the 
 year 1613 to 1624, may be learnt from the following 
 enumeration, as contained in a domestic catalogue 
 of that date. 
 
 At my lord's table," there were 8 persons. 
 
 At the parlour table," 21 persons; among whom 
 are the chaplain;" my 'Mord's favourite," the 
 steward ; ^' the gentleman of the horse," auditor, 
 secretary, &:c. 
 
 At the clerks' table, in the hall," 21 persons ; 
 including clerks of the kitchen, master cook, and 
 other cooks ; yeoman of the buttery ; ditto of the 
 pantry ; pastry man ; usher of the hall ; slaughter- 
 man ; groom of the great chamber ; brewer, baker, 
 gardeners, caterer ; groom of the wardrobe ; a French 
 boy, &c. 
 
 ^' The nursery" contained 4 persons. 
 
 ^' At the long table in the hall," there were 48 
 persons; including attendants on my lord and lady — 
 Scrivener ; a master huntsman ; a falconer, armourer, 
 coachman ; 3 grooms of the great horse ; chief, and 
 other footmen ; groom of the hall ; huntsmen ; the 
 armourer's man and his servant. 
 
 The laundry maid's table," 12 persons ; among 
 whom we find Goodwife Burton" — a black-a- 
 moor." 
 
148 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 
 
 In tlie kitchen and scullery were 6 persons : — 
 making in the whole 116 persons. 
 
 The apartments generally shewn to visitors are 
 the following, all of which are adorned with pic- 
 tures : — The liallj measuring 75 feet, by 27 and 28 
 in height. At one end is a carved screen, and in 
 the fire-place is a pair of and-irons, brought from 
 Hever Castle, and supposed to have belonged to 
 Henry VIII., as they have the crown and H.R. on 
 them. The Brown Gallery ^ 88 feet in length, con- 
 tains a series of old portraits of eminent persons. 
 Lady Betty Germain^s room and dressing-room con- 
 tains several pictures and portraits. The spangled 
 bed-room, and its dressing-room ; the billiard-room — 
 portraits ; the Venetian bed-room, and its dressing- 
 room ; the ball-room — mostly family portraits ; the 
 chapel-room, organ-room, and chapel; the drawing- 
 room. The cartoon-room, or great galleryy contains 
 copies from Raffael's Cartoons, by D. Myttens, &c. 
 The hinges bed-chamber ; the dining, or poet's par- 
 lour, contains a series of portraits of the most emi- 
 nent poets, and other authors, some of which are by 
 Sir Joshua. The colonnade contains several busts. 
 The guard-room; the breakfast-parlour ; the music, 
 room; the library, 
 
 THE END 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 J. MOVES, CASXr.E STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE. 
 
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