fb MK 6 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION AT PARIS, 1889. fyl I'M'}? REPORT ON GROUP IV. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL, Va ■ !> AND ACCESSORIES. WILLIAM’; ^EARY-'OCI I)., F. C. S., Expert Commissioner of the United States , Assigned to this Group. WITH A REVIEW OF THE GROUP BY A. VAN BERGEN, MEMBER OF THE JURY OF GLASS 35, AND A REPORT ON JEWELRY BY GEORGE F. KUNZ, SUPERINTENDENT OF THE MINERAL DIVISION. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1893 . ' 1 FOURTH GROUP. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. o33 43G6G [EXTRACT FROM THE OFFICIAL CLASSIFICATION.) FOTJftTIi GROUP. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. Class 30. Cotton thread and fabrics. Class 3L Thread and fabrics of hemp, flax, etc. Class 32. Threads and fabrics of combed wool. Threads and fabrics of carded wool. Class 33. Silks and silk fabrics. Class 34. Laces, net, embroidery, and trimmings. Class 35. Articles of hosiery and underclothing. Accessories of wearing apparel. Class 36. Wearing apparel for both sexes. Class 37. Jewelry and precious stones, Class 38. Portable weapons, hunting. Class 30. Articles for traveling and camp equipage. Class 40. Toys. 334 CONTENTS. Page. Exhibitors and awards 335 Review of Group IV, by A. Van Bergen 339 Cotton thread and fabrics 343 Thread and fabrics of hemp, flax, etc 347 Thread and fabrics of wool 349 Silk and silk fabrics 351 Laces, net, embroidery, and trimmings. 355 Hosiery, underclothing, and accessories 360 Wearing apparel for both sexes 366 Jewelry and precious stones 371 Portable weapons, hunting 373 Articles for traveling and camp 375 Toys 376 Report upon jewelry, by George F. Kunz 381 Mineral exhibits, by George F. Kunz 387 TEXTILE FABRICS WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. By W. H. CHANDLER, Ph. D., F. C. S. This group includes nearly everything which is worn for comfort or adornment by either sex, and in addition portable weapons, trav- eling equipage, and toys. The exhibits were, therefore, very numer- ous. In these lines of industry France has long held the leading- place, both in the excellence of manufacture and in the artistic and decorative qualities of its products. Of the two principal competi- tors of France in these lines Great Britain did very little and Ger- many was not represented at all. Exhibitors from the United States received two grand prizes — namely, John B. Stetson & Co., of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, for hats, and the Winchester Repeating Arms Company, of New Haven, Connecticut, for firearms. Exhibitors from the United States received twelve gold medals, namely: Garner & Co., of New York, for cotton prints; Mayer, Strouse & Co., of New York, for corsets: Beneke Brothers, of New York, for boots and shoes; Dunlap & Co., of New York, for hats; Schloss & Co., of New York, for children’s clothing; Secretary of War, of Washington, District of Columbia, for exhibition of historic uniforms of the American Army; Tiffany & Co., of New York, for jewelry; Colt’s Patent Fire Arms Manufacturing Company, of Hart- ford, Connecticut, for firearms; Smith & Wesson, of Springfield, Massachusetts, for revolvers; Union Metallic Cartridge Company, of Bridgeport, Connecticut, for models of ammunition; Boston Rub- ber Shoe Company, of Boston, Massachusetts, for rubber boots and shoes; Marks’ Adjustable Folding Chair Company, of New York, for adjustable folding-chair. A numerical list of the exhibitors and of the awards of grand prizes and gold medals is appended as being of interest to those studying the management and administration of such international exhibi- tions. The juries making the awards were careful in their exami- 335 336 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. nations and just in their decisions. These decisions as to the merit of the exhibits are based upon the following features: (1) Great novelty of invention either in the exhibit or process of manufacture. (2) Great excellence of the exhibit or product. (3) Magnitude or extent of the establishment. (-1) Awards were given also for collective exhibits of merit or ex- hibits of collections. (5) Awards were also given in some cases for the encouragement of industries neiv to the particular locality in the absence of either novelty or special excellence. There may be named, perhaps, as fair examples of these various awards, the following grand prizes in Classes 41 and 48: (1) Percy C. Gilchrist, of Great Britain, for the basic process of the manufacture of steel. (2) Marrel freres (Forges de la Loire et du Midi), France, steel and iron forgings. (•3) Socidtd des mines et founderies du zinc de la Vielle Montague, France et Belgique, products of zinc. (4) Exposition collectif des forges du Nord, France. (44) Administration Royale Grand-ducale des Mines, Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. (5) Compagnie Miniere des lettres, Venezuela. These are selected merely as illustrations of the system, which is equally applicable to any other department or class, and as the most satisfactory basis of awards of these great international exhibitions. Lastly, awards were given to collaborators — employes who have contributed to the production of the exhibit. For instance, George F. Kunz, employed by Tiffany & Co., and who collected the speci- mens of semigems and minerals in their exhibit, received a gold medal. Dr. L. M. Biber, who collected the mineral exhibit of the State of Nevada, received a bronze medal. NUMBER OF EXHIBITORS. Country. Class. Total. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. Argentine Republic 3 5 33 3 15 14 17 1 4 5 100 Austria 2 ' O 4 20 24 19 1 72 Belgium. 17 27 29 7 25 17 17 7 22 9 14 184 Bolivia 4 11 4 3 8 1 3 34 Brazil 9 3 3 5 u 6 16 2 1 3 59 Cape Colony 1 i Chili 1 1 4 g 10 1 9 29 China 2 1 1 4 Denmark 6 1 3 10 Egypt 3 3 i 2 11 TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 337 NUMBER OF EXHIBITORS— Continued. Country. Class. Total. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 3 4 5 3 1 5 2 3 26 France 182 77 189 187 164 280 313 163 57 54 105 1771 Colonies 9 18 22 16 17 32 124 42 46 46 8 380 Protectorates 6 3 1 12 5 8 17 8 18 4 1 83 Great Britain 12 5 20 19 13 20 31 8 16 13 6 163 Greece 53 7 17 56 43 25 41 6 8 5 2 263 13 8 22 3 23 2 34 1 1 1 108 1 1 2 1 2 7 1 1 2 2 14 4 3 5 38 66 6 1 1 55 2 17 3 6 4 95 1 1 2 4 1 1 10 2 3 3 1 1 20 1 1 15 1 1 3 29 Portugal 11 4 15 5 10 36 1 89 3 2 1 2 2 1 11 13 14 43 45 9 33 57 4 4 222 18 5 15 10 13 3 5 1 84 1 4 4 2 3 2 16 1 5 6 3 1 3 11 3 18 4 1 44 16 11 14 32 240 36 3 429 1 1 1 1 4 Spain 10 6 47 5 8 16 27 3 i 2 2 127 1 2 1 17 32 16 10 7 3 1 89 United States 7 4 8 2 3 8 12 8 6 6 5 69 4 1 6 11 Venezuela 1 1 4 3 2 1 12 405 212 571 487 490 805 897 348 205 162 154 4, 736 GRAND PRIZES AWARDED. 338 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. GOLD MEDALS AWARDED. Country. Argentine Republic . Austria Belgium Brazil Cape Colony Denmark Ecuador France Colonies Great Britain Greece Holland Italy Japan Mexico Portugal Roumania Russia Servia Spain Switzerland United States Uruguay Class. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 53 35 60 44 10 2 10 60 35 46 2 2 1 4 2 4 1 88 40 35 14 Total. 45 3 1 3 2 312 14 27' 2 1 5 11 12 6 2 13 1 10 25 12 1 516 TEXTILE FABRICS WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. REVIEW OF GROUP IV. By A. VAN BERGEN. Those of our countrymen who came to France in the memorable summer of 1889, and their number is legion, have returned to Amer- ica literally dazzled and astounded. The splendors of the Paris International Exhibition were like so many fairy scenes, and now that they are over and the Exhibition deserted we seem to be awakening from a dream, a dream in which everything was grand, imposing, and stupendous. Even empty and deserted as it is, the Exhibition still interests us, for it would appear, even to those who have visited it most, that so many things have been left unseen, so many beautiful scenes passed hurriedly by, that they would gladly begin afresh and go over and admire it all once more. The Paris Exhibition has had the good fortune, after six months of unparalleled success, not to have wearied our admiration, nor has it fully satisfied our curiosity, for it has closed its gates in a perfect apotheosis. The Americans who came to Paris will, therefore, no doubt be glad to be reminded of that beautiful place after the lapse of four or five months, for it was indeed so beautiful we might go on speaking about it continually, while to those who have been prevented by business or pleasure from coming to the Exhibition I hope to be able to say something interesting, notwithstanding the excellent articles pub- lished by the American press. I am not aware that the remark has yet been made, but in any case there can be no harm in repeating it. Americans have had two reasons for profound satisfaction in Paris. The first is, the promi- nent position we have taken in art and industry as compared with the other nations of the world, and the second is, the sincere and large-hearted sympathy we have met with at the hands of the Gov- ernment, the country, and the people themselves. Our flag, borne aloft by General Franklin, has everywhere commanded the deepest and most sincere respect, while those of us, who have been called 339 340 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. upon to serve on the different juries for awarding prizes, are unani- mous in speaking in terms of the highest praise of the flattering re- ception we have everywhere received and the unvarying kindness with which we have been treated. The fact remains undisputed that the Exhibition of 1889 has in every way greatly strengthened the bonds of friendship which have united America and France for the last century, and their two great centenaries, following so quickly one upon the other, mark not only the final triumph of liberty, but the glorious commemoration of the great civil struggles in which each country has taken part. And now, having made these preliminary observations, let us see what is the present state of that . strange, weird, brilliant world which was the Exhibition. Eiffel's Tower, the Central Dome, the Fine Arts Palace, the Liberal Arts Palace, the Machine Gallery, a few among the rare and curi- ous little buildings put up by the tropical countries, and perhaps also a few pages of Garnier's History of Human Dwellings, these are all that are to remain of the immense hive through which 25,000,000 visitors have passed in the dust of the long sunny days of summer. The objets d' art have been returned to the various museums, and those masterpieces of workmanship which were so much admired may be met with in every country ; many have been sent to America and to England, if we judge from the notices posted up giving the names and addresses of the purchasers. The goods began to be sent away on the 7th of November, so that there will soon be partial exhi- bitions almost everywhere of the most remarkable exhibits of the Champ de Mars. These exhibits may, I think, be fairly said to rep- resent the accumulated perfections in taste, grace, elegance, and richness of every branch of industry. The large dry goods houses of London, Liverpool, Glasgow, New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, Rio de Janeiro, Madrid, Brus- sels, and other large towns are now showing the dresses, embroid- eries, hats, fabrics, flowers, jewels, glass, and porcelain goods bought at the Exposition, so that this great object lesson that Paris has given to the world at large will soon be repeated in almost every country. No one, I am sure, will say for one moment that such les^ sons are not eminently useful; nay, more, I think in all this I see a new era open before us, one in which art will be popularized and people’s tastes elevated ; surely, such results are not to be despised. In any case, this pause before the end of our century to note down and, as it were, to take stock of the world’s goods is one never to be forgotten. But apart from the great moral and political conquests made during the nineteenth century, we must bear in mind that the marvelous applications of steam and electricity date from it. Com- pare the “Rocket” which was on view in the Gallery of Liberal Arts, with those colossal steam engines shown in the Machine Gal- lery, and then you will be able to form some idea of the progress TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 341 made. What strides we are taking! If we keep on at this pace the next generation will see some wonderful things. Before proceeding any further, and while upon the threshold of this work, which I must say I have undertaken rather reluctantly, I should like to make just one remark. In the course of my ram- bles through that immense Exhibition, above the noise of the ma- chines, the busy hum of the multitude, the strains of music, and the deafening roar of the steam engines, there seemed to rise, high above and over all, one grand idea, and that was, man’s great guid- ing star, art. Never since the day I came to Europe, nearly forty years ago now, never have I been so deeply impressed with this thought. This impression has enlightened and edified me, both as to my daily occupation and with regard to French commerce and manufactures ; it has given me a fuller perception of the powerful aid that art lends to human labor. Group IY, the one I am about to review, includes goods of all kinds, upon each one of which art has put its stamp. There is an old saying “ every French manufacturer is half an artist,” and it has never been so true as for those exhibiting in Group IV. Group IY comprises eleven classes, namely, from Class 30 to Class 40. The goods embraced were textile fabrics, made-up garments, and accessories, and it contained several thousand French and for- eign exhibits : Class 30. Cotton thread and fabrics. 31. Thread and fabrics of hemp, flax, etc. 32. Threads and fabrics of combed wool. Threads and fabrics of carded wool. 33. Silks and silk fabrics. 34. Laces, net, embroidery, and trimmings. 35. Articles of hosiery and underclothing. Accessories of wearing apparel. 36. Wearing apparel for both sexes. 37. Jewelry and precious stones. 38. Portable weapons, hunting. 39. Articles for traveling and camp equipage. 40. Toys. In a word, everything relating to personal ornament or protection, defense, or amusement. If I were to quote figures I could show that these industries absorb more than one-third of the labor of all hu- manity, as proved by the amount of wages paid; they employ sev- eral millions of persons, of whom women form a considerable pro- portion. The reporters of these eleven classes are now hard at work drawing np their reports, and it must not be supposed that they imagine they have an easy task. It almost seems as if they exaggerated its im- portance, they appear to be so thoroughly absorbed in their work. If I am not mistaken, we shall have a batch of thick volumes, of from 500 to 600 pages each, in a short time, and I am convinced that they will be full of interesting, readable matter and contain historical and 342 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. economical statistics of great value. For my part, I am pleased to see these literary efforts on purely commercial subjects. King Labor will in future have his historians and his staff of reporters. We shall be told how he lives, produces, and triumphs. We shall know how each industry has commenced and what progress it has made. Its most illustrious names will be sounded from shore to shore. Its decisive battles will be minutely described, while the days of its memorable struggles will be red-letter days for all, and we shall find our greatest pleasure in reading such literature, far greater, I presume, than in reading descriptions of those terrible massacres called glorious victories, which are so frequent in the history of past generations. There are, moreover, many reasons why these works should be read, and well read, for I think they will be written con- scientiously by competent men, and that they will contain much valu- able information drawn from the most authentic sources. I wish it therefore to be distinctly understood that the few remarks I am about to make have no reference whatever and do not in any way clash with the works I have just referred to. I shall not pretend to do more than set forth my views briefly as a business man, an Ameri- can, and one of the oldest members of the American colony in Paris, and I shall confine myself to a few remarks on the progress and the future of some of the principal trades which have grown to im- portance in France and certain other countries. There will obviously be (not in this paper, but in the works above referred to) a most perceptible gap resulting from the nonpartici- pation of Germany in the Exhibition. Germany competes keenly with France, England, Belgium, and other countries, which might, perhaps, have learned a valuable lesson had its manufacturers brought the products of their ingenuity to this great international congress; but the animosity still existing between the two peoples is far from subsiding; and it must be admitted at the same time that the English themselves, although on good terms with the French, by no means sent fair average specimens of their immense indus- tries. Bradford, Manchester, Nottingham, and many other towns were, with few exceptions, oidy represented by agents. It must not, however, be supposed that it is possible to form an accurate idea of human industry in every latitude and in every variety, even should we visit all the exhibitions in the world. I will say once more, because I wish to be clear on that point, the Paris Exhibition of 1889 has been the true expression of the most perfect beauty and richness to which man has yet attained in any of his works, and still the ordinary run of goods of everyday sale, those which in fact form the basis of international exchange, were only represented by a few scattered samples. I am therefore afraid that merchants and manufacturers, importers and exporters have goiae away with very slight information on many subjects relating to their TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 343 various occupations, so tliat it is not possible to discuss these matters thoroughly and make useful comparisons, if we are to confine our remarks to articles shown in the Exhibition. The Exhibition has been an imposing object-lesson for the masses. That has been its best side, for the results of that lesson will remain long after the Exhibition has been forgotten. I shall now proceed to give a brief summary of the exhibits, tak- ing one class after the other. I shall have to quote certain names in order to make my observations as clear as possible, and I shall no doubt be obliged to speak very highly of many classes of goods, for, indeed, they call for terms of the highest praise. I am fully per- suaded that any man, placed as I was in a position to judge, would say the same. I lay aside all ideas previously formed, whether abstract, politi- cal, or innate, and take my stand exclusively as a commercial man. I have not trusted to my own judgment in this matter, but have con- sulted competent men in each branch of trade, so that I feel justi- fied in the hope that these observations will contain impartial criti- cisms and accurate opinions, and that they may to some extent pre- pare your readers for the authoritative reports. CLASS 30 .—COTTON THREAD AND FABRICS. This is one of the largest and most important industries in the world, and perhaps the one which interests humanity to a greater degree than any other; it is in fact the dominion of King Cotton. The applications of cotton seem unlimited ; it forms the basis of such a vast variety of trades, all of which manufacture for the mil- lion; for as cotton fabrics are the cheapest of all textiles, they are adopted as coverings by hundreds of millions of human beings. Grays, bleached goods, dyed and printed calicoes play an important part in every climate, either as garments or drapery. Considerable progress has been made in the weaving and printing of cotton fabrics. As fast as cotton makes its way, flax is driven out of the market. Cotton is continually pushing linen out, for al- though the latter is more durable, it is dearer, and so is obliged to make way for the lower priced article ; this battle is always going on, slowly but surely. It is made up in widths ranging from 0. 80 centimetres to 3 metres, the wide widths being for sheets. Before the Franco-German war the cotton trade was most pros- perous in Alsace, and more especially at Mulhouse, where such names as Dollfus, Mieg, Hartmann, Koechlin, Schlumberger, Gros Roman, and many others, were household words. Thousands of operatives were employed, and the mills covered hundreds of acres. When peace was signed they were very much cast down ; they were extremely patriotic, and felt terribly aggrieved. W ell, after all, they 344 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OE 1889 AT PARIS. could not take their country away and were obliged to make up their minds to it. A few amongst them, Gros Roman, Ch. Mieg, and Hartmann & Son., for instance, who have just been awarded gold medals, started new mills on French territory, and their patri- otism has been crowned with success. Amongst the grand prizes I may mention the name of Dollfus- Mieg & Co., but they have obtained it for their well-known yarns, and not for their cloths, which latter are made in Alsace. The three Russian names appearing in the list of grand prizes for Class 30, viz. Messrs. Asaph Baranoff & Co., the Baranoft Manufacturing Company, and Zahar Morosoff, jr., call for special remark. Indeed, the articles shown by these three large mills, which employ seven or eight hundred hands near Moscow, were most re- markable ; the printing was sharp, well-defined, and the harmony of color was beyond all praise. They sent some printed calicoes with Turkey red ground which were loud and striking, but abso- lutely irreproachable. But how is it, you ask, that Russia can turn out such splendid goods? It is simply because the Alsatian chem- ists, draftsmen, and foremen have preferred exile to remaining in Alsace under Prussian rule. Russian snows seemed less hard to bear than German hatred. These Russian goods do not however, affect the markets in the west of Europe, but appear to have a future marked out for them in the East, in Russia itself, which is a large market, as also in Asia, Siberia, and Persia. Messrs. Rylands & Sons, of England; the Belgian Spinning Com- pany, limited ; Parmentier van Hoegaerden, of Belgium, Henri Kunz, of Switzerland; Parallada & Co., of Spain, and the Espana Industrial complete the list of grand prizes. The absence of specimens of the manufactures of Tarare and of almost all those of St. Quentin from Class 30 was greatly regretted, and the same remark applies to Class 32, in which Roubaix and Tourcoing goods were conspicuous by their absence. This reminds me of an anecdote of Henry IV. It is said he wrote to his friend Crillon thus: “You may go and hang yourself, Crillon. We have gained the day at Argues, and you were not there.” The present French Government might with equal justice reproach such towns as Roubaix, Tourcoing, Tarare, and St. Quentin for their want of faith in the enterprise. It may refer to the success of the Exhibi- tion as a proof of what has been done without their help. But in spite of these defaulters, Rouen, Roanne, and many inde- pendent manufacturers have proved, by their exhibits, that the cot- ton industry is flourishing in France; but while it is regretable to find that certain centers of French industry did not take part in the Exhibition, the absence of specimens of the manufactures of certain foreign houses, which in their own country are in a promi- nent position, was most perceptible and unfortunate in many re- TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 345 spects. Who, for instance, as an American, can not help feeling sorry that such firms as W. & J. Sloane and others did not think proper, even after being appealed to so strongly, to send a few of those products which are due to their long and patriotic labors and which have been so immensely successful. Their magnificent carpets and pieces of furniture would, in the opinion of men most able to judge, have obtained the highest reward possible in their class. It would have been an additional subject for congratulation among Americans. But coming back to our subject, namely, cotton, it would appear that weaving is not so new as many suppose. Some of the mummies in the Boulak museum, left to us by Mariette Bey, are wrapped in fine calico in a very good state of preservation. Of course I am aware that progress has been made in the process of manufacture. If you should ever have the good fortune to go through Gros Roman's or Hartmann & Sons’ mills, compare the products of Sesostris’ time and you will see the effects o f the onward march since that age, besides which we must bear in mind that the pace has been doubled within the last quarter of a century. It is particularly pleasing to notice the improvements made in the cotton industry, on account of its being so necessary to the poorer classes, and this is no doubt why the consumption has so largely increased, such increase referring obviously to a greater degree of comfort among those to whom com- forts of any kind are so rare. Common calicoes, madapollams, shirt- ings, printed calicoes, muslins, and a large number of other fabrics are popular throughout the world, both for durability and cheap- ness. I have had an opportunity of ascertaining for myself that cotton-weaving was practiced to a large extent by the ancients. After the close of the Exhibition I visited Egypt and Asia Minor, and brought back with me a quantity of specimens of woven tissue taken from the mummies of unknown queens who have been dead over four thousand years. The English did not take a great part in the Exhibition, and we could not judge of their manufactures except by a few samples shown by a small number of agents. They supply the world with their products, but they did not understand that it was a fitting op- portunity for showing how low a price they can reach. The only new things 1 remarked among their exhibits were some bed-covers with satin ground. They were really beautiful and were greatly admired by the ladies. I should think they are likely enough to meet with a good demand. During the last few years a new textile fiber has been brought into the market, namely, ramie or China grass. The cost of decortica- tion is, however, so much greater than that of cotton-picking that it is hardly likely to be a dangerous competitor against cotton. It appears that plantations have been started in Africa and elsewhere 346 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. on a large scale, so we shall be better able to judge when they have had time to show a return. As far as we can judge at present, for until now we can only speak of the quality, it is silky, fine, soft, and bright, and it takes the dye well. When used alone, it gives satis- factory results, while, when mixed with silk to make a low-priced article, it may he said also to be fairly successful; but at present it is dearer than cotton, and unless it can be placed in the market at a very low figure I really can not see what prospect there can be of its adoption. I remarked with much pride the progress made by the United States in the cotton trade. I think the advance made in both weav- ing and printing justifies us in saying that such progress is sufficient to lay the foundations for a large and prosperous business in future. It is moreover a fact worthy of remark, and the Exhibition has made it still more apparent, that every country in the world is making headway in manufactures and trying to do without importing goods;, in a few countries the various staple industries are still in their in- fancy, but as a rule they are prospering. So much the better; man- ufacturers will have to look abroad, it is true, to find outlets for their products, but they will find them very often in the most unlikely places. It is one of the effects of the march of intellect, so we can hardly complain; it only furnishes another illustration of what has been said over and over again, “the land wants men more than men want land.” But to return to cotton. Cotton yarns include single yarns for weaving, and double yarns, dyed or in the gray, for sewing cotton, lace, hosiery, and embroidery. Cotton woven fabrics may be divided into three classes: (1) strong cloths, such as T cloths, fine and coarse calicoes, chintzes, madapol- lams, twills, glazed and embossed fabrics, and ticking; (2) light cloths, such as jaconets, nonsuches, gauzes, and plain and fancy muslins; (3) prints and chintzes. The French cotton districts are in the Vosges and the east gener- ally for articles of large demand and for calico printing. Nor- mandy, Rouen, and Flers are noted for their liollands, general Man- chester goods, handkerchiefs, tickings, printed calicoes, and other goods requiring much material and little labor. In the department of the North, Lille, Roubaix, St. Quentin, and Amiens manufacture cotton for tulle, lace, curtains, velvets, and light fabrics. The Ta- rare and Roanne district is famous for various kinds of muslin, curtains, and the better qualities of colored striped cloth and checks. The raw material still comes chiefly from America, notwithstand- ing the increased production in India, China, Egypt and Brazil. The lesson taught by the Exhibition seems to be that considerable improvements are being made everywhere in plant and machinery in order to reduce the cost of production and place goods within the TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 347 reach, of the poorest classes, those upon whom fortune so seldom smiles. What a blessing cotton is after all. CLASS 31. — THREAD, AND FABRIC OF HEMP, FLAX, ETC. Class 31 contained a masterpiece of workmanship, a genuine work of art, magnificent, unique in fact, and worthy of being kept forever in a glass case. It was an immense tablecloth — no, tablecloth is- not the word and hardly conveys a just appreciation of the article,, which might be more fitly compared to a beautiful picture. It was sent by Messrs. J. Casse & Sons, Lille, who were awarded a. grand prize. Was it worth 20,000 francs? 100,000 francs (I believe they were offered 100.000 francs for it)? I can not say, but I could never pass it without stopping to gaze m wonder at the harmony of color, worthy of a Rubens. It was 6 or 7 yards long by about 5 or 0 wide, and represented a party of noblemen with their ladies at luncheon, in costumes of Louis XIII, I think. I do not believe in the whole of this splendid piece of work there was a single blemish, not a float or a broken thread, nor was a single effect lost in the whole work. Messrs. Casse are adepts in these surprises; this is by no means the first they have turned out. The Rouen Museum con- tains two remarkable pictures in linen, which were shown in the Exhibition of 1878. The manufacture is very varied and of a high class, from the ordi- nary everyday run of goods, such as common napkins, to more ex- pensive open-worked ones with fringes. Messrs. Casse also make- gimp, and flax and jute velvets, with silk and gold weft. They started some fifty years ago, and have their mills at Fives, Lille, where: they employ over two thousand hands. They make their own looms, and are most certainly one of the largest and most respectable firms in France. We have also to speak in terms of high praise of the articles shown by the “ Comptoir de 1’Industrie Liniere,” which perhaps turns out more linen than any other firm in France. Messrs. Saint Brothers (established 1798), are manufacturers of sacking, coarse linen, upholstery stuffs in jute, cables, and hempen, carding-cloths in enormous quantities. It is the largest jute mill in Europe. It furnished the following curious statistics to the jury of social economy concerning its seven mills : 6,800 operatives, requir- ing daily 60 tons of coal to produce 6,300 horse-power, and using 63- tons of yarn. These combined forces produce daily 57 tons of yarn,. 15 tons of cordage, cables, etc., 135,000 yards of cloth, 48,000 sacks,, and 3,600 cart sheets. Is there another mill in the world producing such enormous quantities of similar goods? It is wonderful where they all go to. What a marvelous thing human ingenuity is, and how strange are the laws of supply and demand. Messrs. Carmichael Brothers & Co. (established 1845), who intro- •348 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. cluced the jute industry into France, had also a fine exhibit of jute fabrics. They do a very large export trade now in sugar and coffee sacks, which are shipped chiefly to the colonies. We must not omit to mention Mr. Cauvin-Yvose’s interesting ex- hibit. He manufactures waterproof cart-sheets, and is a large army contractor. He also supplies the various railway companies, and made all the covers for the awnings in the Exhibition grounds. But independently of these great flax and jute factories, there were a vast number of things of interest. France can not compete against Belfast on account of the climate, which enables the Irish to produce cheap light linens of snowy whiteness ; but the French can compete against the world in the manufacture of plain, stout linen, in which they seem to have gained the ground they had lost. The French are more at home in fancy embroidered or printed goods ; their ingenuity seems to be boundless. They make hand- kerchiefs, bed covers, eider down quilts, printed or open-worked pillow-slips, which are absolutely perfect. Simonnot, Godard & Co. ■showed a bed cover and some new printed handkerchiefs made of lawn, which were absolutely incomparable. I do not think the Eng- lish have produced anything to compare with them. Mr. Simonnot Godard was on the jury, so did not compete for prizes. One of the gold medals of Class 31 was awarded for the French manufacture of China grass above referred to. There were some ■splendid things shown in China grass ; time alone will show whether it can be made to pay. The French had formerly to compete with Germany and Belgium in table linen, but they are now supreme in foreign markets. Their designs are better and their goods better finished. Courtrai, in Belgium, is still noted for its fine, plain, and striped linen. Flanders, and Courtrai in particular, maintains its old re- nown. The same thing may be said of France ; Lille, Cambrai, Chalet, Valenciennes, Amiens, etc., have world-wide reputations. The hemp, flax, and jute trades have greatly increased during the past few years, so that it is not surprising if a number of novelties in fancy fabrics are brought out each year. Linen can be made so fine, so soft, and so white, and it is such a strong and durable fabric, that it is easy to explain why it meets with popular favor. It is manufactured in a superior manner now. the factories are spacious and healthy, and contain all the latest improvements in machinery. It seems to be the motto everywhere now to improve the machinery, and study the health and comfort of the operatives. During the late commercial crisis, when the French felt the keen competition of the Germans and the English in those very markets which they had held the longest, when the consumption fell off to the extent of a •couple of hundred millions, they set to work to discover the cause, and found they must improve their plant and get out of the old TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 349’ grooves. It was a long time before the linen industries joined the movement, but they have at last seen the importance of making some change, and the results are already apparent. Belfast competed keenly with France in the American markets formerly. There may perhaps be a change in that respect; time alone will prove. In any case the French have taste in their favor, and that is an important item. CLASS 32 .—THREADS AND FABRICS OF COMBED WOOL— THREADS AND FABRICS OF CARDED WOOL. Combed and carded woolen fabrics used to be quite distinct classes of goods, but now in fancy stuffs they are much combined and mixed with cotton or silk, according to the effect to be produced, or accord- ing to the season or fashion. It is in such like products that the curious eifects of competition are shown most clearly. Manufac- turers imbued with the same idea proceed in different ways to arrive at about the same result, and the consequence is at times very singular. For whilst in the north they mix as much silk as possible with their wool, in the Rhone district they put as much wool as they can in their silk, the consequence being that more silk is consumed at Roubaix than at Lyons. Class 32, which contained all kinds of woolen fabrics and unions, was certainly one of those in which the art of showing and setting off goods was carried to the greatest perfection, the greatest care having at the same time been taken of those articles which were ex- posed to the air. So much importance is, in fact, attached to window dressing in Paris, that good window men command good salaries. I do not know what was paid for dressing the show-cases, which re- mained so fresh and pretty for six months, but I say this: that those who arranged them deserved their money. Class 32 presented a most magnificent spectacle. It was a con- tinual round of agreeable surprises. The large French centers of industry sent the masterpieces of their work, and as we looked upon them we seemed to hear the busy hum of looms, shuttles, straps, and pulleys. Thousands of workpeople going to and fro came before our mind’s eye, toiling in the steamy rooms, and keeping time with the restless jennies. Thousands of pieces are turned out daily from these looms, which never cease working. Roubaix and Tourcoing, which only took a slight part in the Ex- hibition, and Rheims, Elbeuf, Lisieux, Louviers, le Cateau, Sedan, Fourmies, and a score of other towns, had sent their very choicest productions and maintained the incontestable superiority of French manufacture. It is now admitted on all hands, even by France’s rivals, that she holds the front rank in combed wool fabrics, meri- nos, cashmeres, etc., and on novelties and tweeds. Twelve grand prizes and over sixty gold medals were awarded in 350 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. Class 32, and this was not too many to acknowledge the merits of all the exhibitors. Messrs. Bellest & Co., of Elbenf, sent some splendid specimens of rich cloths. Messrs. Breton & Son, of Louviers, had some admira- ble novelties; the Sedan goods were quite up to the mark. Louviers and Elbenf had gone down a great deal; but they have come to the front again now. The group of Viennese exhibitors were awarded a grand prize for their printed cloths, which used to be made only in Germany. They now supply our market with printed cloths at 3 to 4 francs a metre, which enables ready-made clothiers to turn out suits at a very low figure. Elbeuf now produces light cloths for ladies’ wear, which used also to come from Germany. This has caused quite a revolu- tion in low-priced articles, for England and Germany used to flood the French markets with a lot of perfect rubbish. The new Viennese goods come as low and are of much better quality. Amongst the grand prizes awarded special mention should be made of that given to Messrs. Grandjean & Co., of Rheims, manufacturers of very excellent light woolen stuffs, cashmeres, merinos, who showed some beautiful fabrics with silk warp and wool weft. Messrs. Belin & Co., of Fourmies, were awarded a gold medal for their low-priced dress materials — 75 centimes or 90 centimes a metre, if I remember rightly. They were made in various designs, checks, etc., and were very pretty and remarkably good value. Messrs. Noirot, Janson, of Rheims, obtained a gold medal for keep- ing their beautiful flannels for princess robes up to the mark. Reyrel & Co. showed a very fine selection of novelties in cloths of rare merit. Messrs. Boussus, of Fourmies, Boussuat & Gaudet, Duche, Michel Bureau for their novelties, Gamounet-Dehollande for his china satins, all received gold medals, as also Messrs. Michau & Co. , who are manufacturers of cashmeres and fancy cloths. A silver medal was awarded to Messrs. Lesser & Gamier, of Bo- hain, for a novelty which they showed, viz, imitations of fur, plush, and astrakhan. We noted among the articles sent by M. Bi’eant, a member of the jury, some cashmere shawls. They were noticeable on account of their being put in the market at the price of cashmere shawls, whilst being excellent imitations of Indian shawls. We were struck with the blending of the tints, the originality of the designs, and with their general resemblance to the real article. The idea is a good one, and may help to revive this trade, which is one the French excel in. M. Breant also showed sorqe very fine specimens of new shawls for opera cloaks, and Algerian shawls in woolen and silk fabrics interwoven with wire. Amongst the grand prizes we notice the name of Messrs. Eabourier, Bisson & Co. They received this high reward for their rich woolen TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 351 stuffs, cashmeres, vicunas, cloths of the Witney kind, and their woolen dresses in velvets and plain and worked material. In fancies they had a good show in gauzes, barege, veilings, crepe, grenadine, embroidered muslins, and gauzes interwoven with gold and silver for ball dresses. The jury of Class 32 also awarded a number of prizes to Mexico, Portugal, Chili, Brazil, the Argentine Republic, and Spain for their woolen fabrics. They were specimens of industries just springing up in those countries, but showed much talent and originality, at the same time proving the progress which is being made. I should like to say much more about the beautiful goods shown in this Class 32, but our ladies will soon be able to judge for them- selves; the American stores have bought largely, and in the spring I suppose they will show what they have selected, so that American ladies may have dresses coming direct from the Paris Exposition. The astonishing progress made by French dyers and finishers calls for special remark. What delicate shades they produce; and how well they can set off a fabric by their harmony of color ! CLASS 33 . — SILKS AND SILK FABRICS. The silk department was organized as a whole by the Lyons Chamber of Commerce, and it was a treat to see it; everything was arranged with such incomparable taste. Taking it altogether, I am sure its like has never been placed before the public. The silk industry is one which has existed so long only for the rich, that it was a long time before manufacturers could see that some change was inevitable if they wished to keep the trade from dying out. Many difficulties were in the way of the radical changes necessary to bring their products within the reach of the masses. Everything appeared to be against them, even the nature of its production, the manners and customs of the Lyonnese, and they held out a long time against any change. This is why the silk trade has found its way into the various departments of that part of France, even to the Basses Pyrenees, where six hundred looms are now at work. There were goods of surpassing beauty in the Lyons exhibits, but there were also specimens of lower-priced goods, giving abundant proof that the 20,000 steam looms in the Lyons district can compete successfully with the 3,810 at work at Krefeld, and the 4,122 at Zurich. It is therefore quite a mistake, though it is one which finds credence almost everywhere, that French manufacturers have not had the good sense to lay themselves out for producing goods for the masses. They moreover make a great variety of unions, using wool and cotton together to a large extent. They are now using immense quantities of the raw materials; it was in fact the French who first began to dye silk goods in the piece, and they are being UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. P.50 copied in their improvements in silk spinning by Spain, China, the Levant, India, and Japan. While it may not perhaps be out of place here to say a word about the technical and professional schools (the weaving and dyeing trades both have them, besides which art schools and friendly societies have largely increased in number lately in the Lyons district), it would take too long, though I can not but hope the eminent Americans, who take an interest in such work, may inquire into the system upon which these schools and societies are established. The ideas of their founders seem rather Utopian, but from what I have been able to gather, they are doing much to improve and raise the social status of the working classes. In the town-hall yard at Lyons, there is an inscription 300 years old to the effect that the silk industry is by tradition and the spirit of progress like an old world in a new one, or a new world in an old one, and that gives a tolerably good idea of this ancient and glorious industry; its distinguishing feature is that it clings to old associa- tions and its memorable past history, mistrusting the unknown, and looking steadily forward into the future. A volume might be writ- ten on this interesting trade which does so much honor to human ingenuity. Silk is such a beautiful material that it is always popular, and when man has brought his skill to bear upon it, he makes it into a valuable and lasting piece of merchandise. The recent struggles in this trade were both curious and instruc- tive. The disputes were between the country workpeople and the town hands, at the head of whom were the overlookers. Now, as the manufacturers could not establish mills on the new plans, by which alone they could hope to compete with the Germans and Swiss, they had to start them in various departments at some dis- tance away, as far even as that part of France near the coast of the Bay of Biscay and contiguous to Spain. In these mills, in which all the latest improvements are made use of, all is done by ma- chinery; it seemed to them the only solution to get away from old associations and operatives with life-long prejudices. Lyons has always had the monopoly of first-class goods; it is the largest center of silk industry in the world; it is the cradle and the school of the silk trade. There are more hand-looms there than elsewhere, and there are many things in the trade which are kept as family secrets and handed down from father to son. Silk goods worth 500 francs a yard earn not but be a marvel, a masterpiece of workmanship, and such goods can not be made elsewhere than in Lyons; the Lyons weaver, the descendant of Jacquart, alone can produce them. They were shown at the Champ de Mars side by side with those magnifi- cent flowered ribbons, made at St. Etienne, which so fascinated the lady visitors. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 353 Class 33 is the one which obtained the largest number of grand prizes. It gained thirty -one, of which twenty-six went to French manufacturers, three to the Swiss, one to the Russians, and one to the Japanese. Many gold medals were awarded to French, English, Swiss, Japanese, Spanish, Russian, Belgian, Italian, and other ex- hibitors; as far as I know America did not send any silk goods. I have so far only referred to dress materials, but the upholstery stuffs shown were no less rich and interesting. Messrs. Bardon, Ritton & Mayen. Berard & Ferrand, the grandsons of C. J. Bonnet, Bouvard, Brosset, Brunet Le Comte, Durand Brothers, Gourd & Co., Poncet, and Tresca Brothers, who were each awarded grand prizes, are well-known firms making very superior goods, such as plain and worked silks, shot silks, velvets, printed silks, satins, taffetas, crape, etc., and others too numerous to mention. Messrs. Emery Brothers, Henry, Piotet, and others sent some plain and fancy upholstery stuff, church ornaments, carriage hang- ings, gold and silver braid and trimmings, which obtained grand prizes also. If any importance could be attached to statistics, it would be worth while to quote figures in the case of such an interesting trade. We shall nevertheless give a few extracts from the annual reports published by the Silk Workers’ Trades Union. It is certain that silk was imported largely, especially before the expiration of the treaty of commerce with Italy; Marseilles was the market for the cocoons, raw silk, and silk waste coming from the East. A large export trade is done with all countries. And here let me con- demn the system adopted by certain unscrupulous manufacturers of putting the word “Lyons” in gold letters at the head of each piece, and some fictitious name of a manufacturer to convey the impres- sion that they are French goods. Such practices deserve the con- tempt of all fair traders, the more so as they are invariably affixed to goods of inferior quality; again, as the names are purely imagin- ary, it is quite impossible for French manufacturers to deny their authenticity or vindicate their honor. As Shakspere says: He that filches from me my good name Robs me of that which not enriches him And makes me poor indeed. It is not only Lyons which has suffered by these fraudulent prac- tices; as fast as any one makes himself a reputation he is pirated, but “ good wine needs no bush” and quality generally speaks for itself. Now, if there is one trade more than another which relies entirely upon excellence of material and workmanship it is the silk trade. Silk is the finest textile. It possesses every quality but one, and that is cheapness, and even by means of combinations Avitli other materials it can be placed within the reach of all. H. Ex. 410 — vol. 2 23 354 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. Some twenty years ago the manufacture of low-priced silks mixed with cotton fell oft' considerably, although it had been started at Lyons at the beginning of this century. At that time the total con- sumption amounted barely to a few million francs. It has now in- creased in enormous proportions, thanks to the recent improvements in the French machinery, dyeing in the piece, etc. ; in fact in the year 1888 the production amounted to 14? millions, or two-fifths of the total amount produced. The following figures speak for themselves: in 1879 the produc- tion of black and colored dress silks stood at 90 millions but had fallen in 1888 to 284 millions; pure Avorked silks went down in the same period from 30 to 17 millions, Avhilst black and colored satins fell from 56 to 15 millions. But these losses have been largely made up by the increased con- sumption of neAv goods; for instance, armures rose from 2 millions in 1879 to 50 in 1888; satins with cotton woof from 24 to 38 millions, armures with avooI woof from 2 to 84 millions. The folloAving curious and instructive table shows the amount of silk brought to the Lyons market in the year 1888: Kilos. French silks 656,610 Silks imported from— Spain 53,489 Piedmont 196,314 Italy 893,549 Brousse [Turkey] 129, 225 Syria 195,234 Bengal 79,726 China 890,253 Canton 821,420 Japan 1,048,374 Tussali silk 163,822 From various sources 55,504 Total 5,183,520 The above figures do not include the Asiatic silks sold by the Lyons shipping houses to Stviss, German, Austrian, Russian, and American firms, so that we may estimate at 6 millions in round numbers, representing 300 million francs in money, the quantity of silk from all sources negotiated in the Lyons market in the yeai 1888. One-third of the silk produced in Europe, or coming from the East, is used in the Lyons district. I think Lyons may be proud ol the position it occupies as shown by these figures, Avliich are worth} of note in municipal and industrial records. The Exhibition at tin Champ de Mars proved beyond doubt that Lyons is in full pros perity, and that for tAvo reasons. The first is the extreme versatility of production; silk fabrics ranging from 50 centimes to 500 francs ; yard, and including every imaginable sort of pure and mixed sill TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 355 fabrics; and the second is that certain kinds of fancy worked silks peculiar to Lyons have always stood high in public favor; the mills of Croix Rousse especially have been much brisker lately. It must be admitted that it stands unparalleled by any foreign industry, and I am fully 'convinced that manufacturers will by their talent and their energy always keep up with the times and maintain their posi- tion in the world. This was evident to the most indifferent visitors to the Exhibition; no one, I am sure, could help being struck with admiration. It is said that the annual turn-over of the Lyonnese may be taken at 400 million francs, which will give some idea of the importance of this great industry. CLASS 34 .—LACES, NET, EMBROIDERY AND TRIMMINGS. Class 34 comprised a group of new, varied, and important branches of industry, very different in character. The exhibits contained the work of thousands of women. These branches of industry are essentially feminine — only fairy fingers can succeed here. It is cer- tainly in embroidery that women have always shown their taste, their patience, and their art in the most striking manner, from the half-savage African women to the refined Pai'isian ladies. An African explorer has even said that in certain central tribes the young negr esses embroidered their own skin just as the men tattoo themselves. A specimen of this human embroidery would have created a sensation in the Exhibition. Certain it is that woman con- fined to her home, be it hut or house, needs to utilize her long leisure hours, and eagerly seizes upon any occupation that will employ her imagination and her delicate fingers. That is why every country sent embroidery of one kind or another. It is true that in Eastern countries there are also many men embroiderers, but nevertheless it is. I think, always and everywhere to woman that is due the credit of the progress made in this art, in so far, of course, as the handi- work is concerned. There were very curious specimens of embroidery from all the tropical countries ; Moi*occo leather boots embroidered in gold and silver ; leather saddles enriched with gorgeous needle- work ; presi- dential chairs with coats of arms and emblems embroidered in high relief with abundance of fine gold. Richness of effect seemed to be aimed at rather than grace, but here and there the strange effect pro- duced was captivating. So, in the list of prizes we find a large num- ber awarded to tropical countries. Asia and Africa are particularly conspicuous. Very different is the nature of Parisian embroidery. Here we have the work of masters in the art, of painters in oil, water colors, and pastel. Their graceful and scientific designs, their har- monious coloring, their soft tone — in a word, the finished perfection of their work certainly made one regret that these panels, scarfs, or 356 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. flounces were not intended to be framed and kept as works of art, instead of being sacrificed to the dust of the street, the sun’s rays, and the cold winter hall nights. In the show cases of Class 36 we found how these magnificent em- broideries are used by the great Parisian dressmakers. They know how to make the best of them, and by applying them upon fine stuff's of delicate hues they succeed in producing tones of extraordinary softness; nothing is harsh, coarse, or ordinary ; the garment is like a fairy covering, so tender, harmonious, charming, and unobtrusive is it. I shall have more to say upon this subject further on. Beau- tiful was the embroidery upon the stoles and chasubles, with their flowers, Agnus Dei, their rich ornaments, their large crosses, intended literally to cover the shoulders of the priest as he officiates at the altar. The Roman Catholic church service by its pomp encourages art. Bronze goods, stained glass windows, sculpture, and painting are man’s part in the decoration of the churches, whilst woman brings something bearing more clearly the stamp of her pious nature, viz, embroidery and lace. In the first place, rich ladies make the most in- comparable tapestry in the retirement of the castle, and, while their liege lords go to war in foreign lands, they remain and, surrounded by their women, produce wonderful lace work for the altar of the church. The secrets of this work of faith and patience are handed down from mother to daughter, and spread through the neighbor- ing hamlets, there to be preserved for centuries until art becomes in- dustrial and is popularized by the later improvements. The exhibit of Mr. Noirot Biais, one of the jury, contained some rich and interesting specimens of church embroidery, some of them being very costly and in fine gold, such as only well-endowed churches can afford, whilst others were more ordinary for less wealthy com- munities. The exhibit did honor both to Lyons and Paris. In the show cases of Messrs. Idoux (who were awarded a well- deserved grand prize), Reiclienbacli, Roclieron, Treves (who all re- ceived gold medals), Lamperiere, Pout.eau, Ficliet & Co. (silver med- als), and other excellent manufacturers, we find the splendid gold lace, the scarfs, ornaments, tulles, or woolen or silk stuffs in such great favor amongst American ladies of taste, and which our large dressmaking houses in New York and Boston have done so much to popularize this season. There were long train dresses embroidered in gold, others in silk or metal, of the most gorgeous kind. Thej r were certainly very costly, and, when imported into America, the duties and other charges make them objects of great value; but I nmst confess that despite their apparent costliness the demand for them is easily accounted for — they are so extremely beautiful. The' army, the government, the various universities, the generals, prefects, and learned men also require gold and silver lace, and, just TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 357 as in savage countries, the highest rank is indicated by the greatest profusion of embroidery. By this means regular work is provided for large numbers of women, who are, as a rule, well remunerated; hut it is when produced by machinery that embroidery becomes a really large and important branch of industry. It can be put in the market at a low figure, and so finds sale in all the classes of the social scale. Switzerland and France both have large mills for the manufacture of embroidery, and they vie with each other in the taste and beauty of their productions. The distinction between the two classes of embroidery — hand and machine made — is not yet clearly defined. There is still much confusion made; but in a short time hand-made embroidery, being especially applied to the bust, the neck, head-dresses, and skirts, will leave the trimmings and those parts of the dress which are less exposed to the machine-made work. The distinction will then be complete, and each branch will keep its own ground without encroaching upon that of its rival. Switzerland deservedly obtained for its “Directoire commercial de St. Gall ” and for some other famous manufactures a grand prize and several gold medals, which will help to maintain their repu- tation. Before leaving the embroidery department, let us stop a moment before the goods sent by Mr. Clair-Leproust, who obtained by the Bronnaz machine some pretty effects applied to light bamboo furni- ture covered with colored plush. It was a good application of use- ful embroidery. It took well with the public, and, in fact, has sold well for some time past. It constitutes in itself a novel and impor- tant branch of trade, and has taken a front rank amongst fancy furniture. Mr. Crouvezier was on the jury and, therefore, did not compete; but his exhibit contained some masterpieces in white hand-worked embroidery. They were made in the department of the Vosges, and these carefully-worked sheets, handkerchiefs, toilet- covers, etc., in rich and graceful designs, did the greatest credit to this manufacturer, who, moreover, has a wide and well-deserved reputation. I can not give more than a passing word to the hand- kerchiefs, embroidered in white or colors, which are so largely ex- ported from France to the United States, but shall refer to them again in Class 35. Among the grand prizes of the class now under consideration I find the name of Mr. Langlois, one of the best of Parisian trimming- men, whose exhibit was close to that of- Mr. Dieutegard, another great Parisian manufacturer, and also on the jury. Both these gen- tlemen, as well as their fellow-manufacturers, exhibited some splen- did specimens of gold and silver hand-made lace. With regard to the more ordinary articles they did not think proper to show them. Was it because they were not sufficiently interesting, or because they did not show notable evidence of progress ? I shall not venture to 358 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. say. Perhaps it was because they were afraid of being copied and thus losing the fruit of their labors. There are several centers of the gold and silver lace trade in France. Lyons, for instance, is renowned for its lace and facings for uniforms. St. Etienne is noted for novelties. Nimes and St. Chamont for trimmings, twist, lace, gimp, fringe, etc. ; but Paris is the great center of this trade, and for the very good reason that the various branches of industry which supply the demands of fashion can not be separated; they must help one another, for they only constitute fashion by virtue of the special force which their coexistence in the same artistic and fash- ionable center gives them. All the various textile materials are em- ployed in this manufacture, but chiefly wool, silk, cotton, gold, sil- ver, and straw. The work is done with the needle or on Jacquard and other looms. The finer kinds are made in small workshops, the ordinary run of lower-priced goods in large mills and by steam power. Embroidery is of course mostly made by women and gills, and the wages paid vary considerably, according to the skill of the operative. Owing to the difference in the price of labor, Saxony competes keenly with France in foreign markets; but where superior, rather than low-priced, goods are in demand France has the upper hand. Her constant effort is to produce novelties. The experiments in bringing them out are often very expensive; but this is compensated when, as is often the case, an article is produced which has run for several seasons. What I have said of trimmings for both ladies and gentlemen’s dress refers also to those used in furniture making, which is also a prosperous and progressive trade, and obtained a gold medal, awarded to Messrs. Weber & Son, whose exhibit was a most remarkable one. The manufacturers in this class have evidently been unwilling to show their best goods; otherwise we should have had a splendid, show, for their resources are immense, and their productions in decorative art rich in effect and of rare beauty. We obtained some idea of this, however, in the furniture and tapestry classes, in which France maintained its 'high rank. We now come to a very fine branch of industry, viz, the lace trade. I have not by me the now classic work on this subject by Mr. Lefd- bure, the official reporter of Class 34, which gives a full account of the history of lace; but there is no doubt it was practiced by the an- cients of all classes almost as a religious work. The machine of former times was a small portable frame placed on the knees, and if iias remained unchanged through all these centuries, being liandec down from one generation to another intact. The worker goes oi very slowly, seeing scarcely any result of her day’s work, still mov ing with sure and vigilant steps in the intricate labyrinth. Shi works in her humble cottage for a modest remuneration; her hus TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 359 band is at work in the field*!, and her baby asleep in the cradle; the dog, her only protector during her long days, lies by her side and pricks up his ears at the slightest sound. Betimes the woman softly hums some national air, the memory of which is still fresh, although learned perhaps in her mother’s lap. Well, ladies, this is how the lace you so much admire is made. Its delicate threads may well have something simple, yet mysterious and legendary, about them, and remind us of olden times and far-off lands. • English point lace, Honiton lace, and French point lace made at Alengon, Chantilly, Bayeux, Caen, and other places, are, I am sure, well known to ladies everywhere, for what lady has not admired their beauty as well as their lasting properties; what lady has not coveted some beautiful trousseau adorned with them? The specimens sent by Mr. Leftibure and those of other firms, who were awarded grand prizes, such as George Martin, formerly Verde Delisle, the Compagnie des Indes, Robert Brothers, of Courseulles, and several Belgian makers, such as Messrs. Bergeran, Jules Lava. Dansart and others, were real wonders both in design and execution. The ladies crowded round these exhibits, and could hardly make up their minds to leave them. Lace, as well as embroidery, has had to submit to the profane in- fluence of improved machinery in order to come within reach of the masses, for real lace, and the various kinds of point lace made at Alengon, Honiton, Venice, Bayeux, Valenciennes, or Bruges, are all so costly that the majority of women can not afford them. The curious and beautiful imitations, for instance, of the lace to be seen in the Cluny Museum, as also the Puy guipures made by the slender fingers of the Auvergne women, can never get into the hands of the women of the people; so that no sooner had the English invented the loom for making tulle than the French applied the Jacquard ma- chine to it. Not that imitation lace can ever have the relief, the bold- ness, or the purity of the real article any more than a cliromo can express the power or depth of color of a real picture, still very fair goods have been produced at a figure which placed them within the reach of all, and that is a great boon. Calais, St. Pierre les Calais, and Nottingham furnish the largest quantities of imitation lace. Messrs. Daveniere and Robert West, who have given great scope to their trade, were awarded a grand prize; several other firms, among whom I may mention Lecomte & Co. and Lepeltier, obtained well deserved gold and silver medals. Belgium holds the first place in the awards, as it occupies a high position in the lace manufacture, which is one always in favor among Flemish women; it has, more- over, a world-wide reputation from time immemorial. Mr. Waree deserves special remark; he was awarded a grand prize, which those best able to judge consider well merited. Mr. W aree’s factory is situated in the Vosges; he makes curtains, coverlets, and a variety of tasty articles, which, by the by, are largely exported to UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. 360 America. Tlie artistic curtains, which adorn the windows of Fifth avenue, are all his make. He turns out coverlets which are real marvels of taste and workmanship; there was one in the middle of his show case which was a finished work of art in every respect. Mr. Neven (grand prize) sent some matchless trimmings for car- riages and railway cars. Another interesting specialty, represented by two firms, Mr. Blazy, on the jury, and Mr. Poiret, who obtained a gold medal, was that of tapestry on canvas. The canvas has a design printed upon it, a small part of which is embroidered in wool and serves as a pattern for the rest. Ladies buy them with the quantity of wool necessary to complete the work thus started. This kind of article has been largely developed by these two firms, and has become an important branch of trade; it finds work for a large number of women in the provinces, and the work is light and agree- able, requiring only a limited amount of taste and patience. CLASS 35.— ARTICLES OF HOSIERY AND UNDERCLOTHING.— ACCESSO- RIES OF WEARING APPAREL. Class 35 was certainly one of the best arranged in the Exhibition. It was well lighted, well planned, with seats everywhere for the comfort of visitors. The show cases were of the best construction, with large glass fronts showing up every article. The general ar- rangement does the greatest honor to the taste and ingenuity of Mr. Julian Hayem, the president of our jury, who, if I am not mistaken, planned the whole. This class included the products of a large number of important and interesting industries, shirts, buttons, braces, gloves, fans, mil- linery, ties, umbrellas, parasols, corsets, embroidered and printed handkerchiefs, eyelets, sticks, etc. All these trades have a large turn over, both in the home and in the export trades. They are all well known in America, for these goods are shipped largely, and many of the names, to which I shall refer, have long been familiar to American importers. The group of glove manufacturers of Grenoble, the center of the kid glove trade in France, and the well-known Chaumont firm, Messrs. Trefousse & Co., were each awarded a grand prize. Need we dwell upon facts well known to all ? The glove industry is one of progress. The skins are dyed better than formerly, they are softer and finer, the gloves are better cut, and, above all, better sewn. Prices keep up generally, though they have fallen off in certain qualities, but the shipping trade is increasing. Apart from the firms who were awarded grand prizes, I may men- ion the following, who obtained gold medals: Messrs. Bondat Brothers, the successors of the old and well known firm of Jouvin & Co., estab- lished in 1817 by Claude Jouvin, the inventor of the cut of glove which still bears his name; Messrs. Courvoisier, Bourgoin & Co., and Francoz, jr., established a century ago and still being carried on by TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 361 the same family; and among the silver medals, Messrs. Boussard & Morisson, Buscarlet & Son. and Malo, jr. ; all these firms are noted for making well-finished goods, and they do a large trade with America and English importers. The two other grand prizes in this glass were awarded to two large Rouen firms, manufacturers of elastic web, Messrs. Riviere & Co., and their competitors, Messrs. Fromage & Co. These two very old firms have bought up all the small makers who had few looms, and so they, remain alone in the field. They supply all those trades requiring web for such goods, as braces and garters, which also they make up themselves. Those famous braces known in the States as 26 gums are made by them, chiefly, for the last ten years, by Riviere & Co. The elastic web made at Rouen is in great demand for a variety of trades in France, besides which they are largely exported to the German and English markets. Large numbers of new designs are brought out each season, some worked in cotton, wool, or silk, every advantage being also taken of any improvement in machinery. These novelties stimulate the trade and make dealers renew their stocks. It should be borne in mind, however, that elastic web will not keep for a length of time; the threads of India rubber contained in them become vulcanized and eat away the fabric. Stocks should, therefore, be run off steadily, and new goods sometimes give an additional impetus-to the trade. Another well-known brace is the one known as the “ Guyot sus- pender,’' made by Mr. Bailly; it was in its place at the Exhibition, for it is very carefully made and has an extensive sale not only in France but in America and England. Messrs. Fayaud are also well and favorably known as brace makers; they obtained a gold medal. Other firms, among whom were Boulenger, Oulman, and Grand jean, received silver and bronze medals, long deserved. An amusing illustration of the strangeness of class names is given with reference to braces. It was only in 1831 that they came into general use, and it appears that the first to use them were the men afterwards known as the “sans culottes,” the “ Breechless” men ! The button trade was certainly not well represented in its various branches, and in Class 35 it did not take a very prominent position; still we remarked Messrs. Bapterosses' exhibit, which obtained a gold medal, besides which the same firm showed in the ceramic class and were awarded a grand prize. It is they who make the agate buttons so well known in the States and throughout the world in fact. This porcelain button seems an insignificant thing, but looked at closer, and it will stand close examination, it is won- derful; what beautiful enamel, and how cheap! The agate button is one of the marvels of the age. and Mr. Bapterosses, who died a few yeai's ago, was one of the greatest manufacturers I have ever 362 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. known. The Briare mills are models in their way, and their uninter- rupted progress is only equaled by their success. Buttons, pearls, nail-heads, and other similar articles, beautifully bright, pretty, perfect in form and enamel, in infinite variety of sizes and colors, are from an industrial point of view nothing short of marvels. This trade is, however, not without competition; a Swiss manufacturer in particular makes similar goods, but no one sent any to the Exhibition. Paris is the great center of the trade in metal, silk, corrozo nut, wood, horn, and enamel buttons. It is in the department of the Oise that mother-of-pearl, bone, ivory, and some silk buttons are mostly made. They were formerly made almost entirely by hand, but machinery has made its way into this as into most other trades, and now the button, which is covered with silk by the needle, is per- haps the only one made by hand. We also remarked the boot but- tons shown by Adt Brothers (silver medal), Anglade (tailors' but- tons), and Bagriot, a firm noted for their metal stamped buttons; they make the gilt buttons for military and other uniforms. Messrs. Berthe, Wulveryck & Servas, in the department of the North, make ordinary everyday articles; Didron, an old house noted for its steel buttons, which are admirably made; Daguen, a maker of ordinary steel buttons; Lemaire Valle, a maker of M. O. P. buttons; Leprince, novelties in metal buttons; Marchand, Bignon, Ammer & Co., estab- lished 1814 and well-known for their new styles of buttons of all kinds; Parent, another very old firm; Rordinot Brothers & Pradier — but I am afraid I am naming all the exhibitors, and perhaps this list may appear monotonous to those not in the trade. I shall there- fore say no more, except that the button men are always studying to bring out something new and always afraid of being copied by their French and foreign competitors, who pirate considerably not- withstanding. I may here make a remark which will be understood by all business men, and which applies to the whole Exhibition. In all the indus- tries which rely upon novelties, and whose heads are continually try- ing to bring out some new thing, care was taken not to show the novelty upon which they are calculating for next season, viz, 1889-’90, for fear of having their creations pirated and losing the fruit of their labors. Such reserve will easily be understood; but it nevertheless deprived the Exhibition of a point of interest, for those in the trade, though, of course, the general public was not even aware of it. The shirt trade, which exports largely, was represented by several large firms, who sent some beautifully finished specimens, of a good cut and no doubt fit. They are well established for making cotton shirts with linen collars and wristbands, as also for flannel shirts. It is here that the latest novelties in gentlemen's ties are brought out. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 363 Their heads are men of taste, and eacli year they have a hatch of new things in fabrics and made-up goods of very correct style. Messrs. Sueur & Co. have also long been known as makers of first- class shirts. They have several works in the country and laundries in three departments. A simple, but skillful cut, careful sewing, and perfect finish have assured them a large export trade. They were among the first to whom we awarded gold medals. Some other firms, such as Colombier Bros., Schwob, Beaumont & Co., sent some well- made and highly-finished goods. French hosiery was represented by the collective exhibition of the Syndical Chamber of the Hosiery of the Aube, whose principal cen- ter is at Troyes, and by several other manufacturers who sent goods on their own account, and of whom I shall now say a few words. Knitted work, which is a branch of hosiery, was shown by the group of Roanne manufacturers and by other separate firms. The hosiery trade has had great difficulty lately in competing with English and German producers. Has it been successful ? Well, yes, if we consider the quality, which is superior; but if we only take price into consideration, then for a few cheap lines we must say no. Manufacturers have availed themselves of all the recent im- provements in machinery. They have even gone so far as to adopt improved manners of setting off their goods, and seeing that they can not impose their ideas upon clients, they now supply any size, color, or other detail asked for. and make for sale, not for show. Three firms, well known in the States — Couturat & Co.. Mauchauffd & Co. , and V erdier & Schultze— obtained gold medals for the general excellence of the varied selection of goods shown. Several other good firms, such as Bouly-Lepage, of the Somme department, Tonnel, of Paris (gold medal), Bruley Brothers, Hirscli & Regley, Remy & Baulet, Quinquarlet, Rabanis, and Boileau (silver and bronze med- als), all showed excellent goods. Messrs. Bretonville and Mr. Dassol, of Ganges, and Sumene, in the Herault (south of France), are manufacturers of high-class silk goods. Several good firms of this section did not exhibit. Messrs. Heilly-Horde, of Villers-Bretoneux, who sent some shoot- ing jackets, partly represented the Somme department, but many large firms did not exhibit. The woolen knitted work, shawls, boots, children’s frocks, skirts, and tippets, made at Roanne and shown independently of the Roanne collective exhibition, enabled us to judge of the excellent goods pro- duced by such firms as Messrs. Ducreux, Margue Brothers, Gudin & Millet, Pauly-Robelin, and Saunier-Prudon. I now come to an article which has been considered as peculiarly French, and that is the fan. Whether artistic and made a thing of beauty, or merely for sale, it is a French product. It is true that the cheaper article has been cut out lately by the Chinese and Jap- 364 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. anese goods, which have swamped the market, whilst the medium quality has been largely made in Austria (Vienna, for instance) and Italy. But for the better class of fans (those painted by artists) Paris still stands unrivaled. The very best artists in oil and water colors, the finest draftsmen in the country, place some of their choicest work on fans. The fan is often mounted in carved mother-of-pearl, in tortoise shell, in carved and gilded wood, which sets the painting off still more, besides which fine feathers and even precious stones are sometimes added. Fans are often princely presents. There were some beautiful ones shown. Mr. Duvelleroy obtained a gold medal for some, as also did Mr. Kees. It is an article which leaves great scope for fancy work ; so we were not surprised to find many novel- ties in the Parisian and Viennese exhibits. There were many varied styles, and a good number of exhibitors obtained prizes, Messrs. Evette, Ahrweiler, Ettlinger, Creusy, Lepault & Deberghe, Levy, Rodien, Krakauer, Kreycy, Moser, and others. Mr. Hugot, who was on the jury, sent some particularly interest- ing fans, which must have been greatly admired by American ladies. Mr. Hugot is a manufacturer who deals largely with our commission agents. He makes it a point to study the taste of American ladies, and he has been successful. We have also to call the special attention of our lady readers to another exclusively Parisian article, and one which concerns them alone, and that is the corset. Much progress has been made in the manufacture of this article within the last few years. It is one of the most important articles of the lady’s wardrobe, and one on which her grace and often her health largely depend. Badly made stays bind the waist and bring on a variety of diseases. They are a sub- ject of annoyance, both to intelligent ladies and those who deal in them. If, on the other hand, they are well made, they impart grace to every movement; they support the body, giving it additional suppleness, thus preventing fatigue and illness, besides being a source of pleasure for the wearer. It is therefore important to have stays well, I may say scientifically, made. "Many attempts have been made, many experiments tried, and if perfection is not yet attained, it is, at all events, certain that many evils have been remedied, and that the modern corset is no longer an instrument of torture. When made on the new lines it helps nature, and by no means obstructs the vital functions. Mr. Farcy, of the firm of Farcy & Oppenheim, was on the jury, which placed them out of the ranks of the competitors. They make those corsets which are marked “C. P. a la Sirene,” and have been in the front rank of corset reformers. Hot far from their exhibit we remarked the excellent stays sent from Bar le Due (gold medal), a large manufacturing center in that trade. The following are the chief names : Cliabaud, Fadon, Leprince, Salomon, Legrain, Pere, Lange-Porcherot, Stiegler, Ulricli-Vivien. and Willinger the three % ^ TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 365 latter of Bar le Due, besides which there were several firms making special lines, viz, Josselin, Dacier, Jonatte, Prudhon, de Gruyter, Davoult, and others. One firm, Messrs. Pilte & Clapin, makes girls’ and children’s stays. Two American firms, who make very excellent corsets, were re- warded by the jury. They were Messrs. Mayer, Strouse & Co., of New York (gold medal), and Messrs. Roth & Goldschmidt, also of New York (silver medal). I am afraid I am wearying my readers by these long lists of names, and still I have so many things I should like to refer to in this Class 35. This corner of the Exhibition was like a little world, there were so many varieties of goods to examine. The foreman of the jury, Mr. Mortier, of the firm of Peron & Mortier, of Troyes, sent some remarkable specimens of hosiery. He will have a big volume to write if he wishes to give some account of the twelve or fifteen trades included in Class 35. It will not be a very easy task. Class 35 also included sticks, umbrellas, parasols, their fittings and trimmings. The trade is carried on principally at Paris and Lyons. A gold medal was awarded to Mr. Meurgey, a very old firm, which is continually bringing out novelties. There were several other good firms who are always striving to combine lightness, strength, and grace in an umbrella or parasol , and that is rather a difficult problem to solve. We awarded a shver medal to Messrs. Follmer, Clogg & Co., of New York, who had an excellent square case well filled with first- rate mounts and handles of various kinds. A well-known firm, Messrs. Lepetit-Charollet, and the large warehouses of the Gagne- Petit and the Bon Marche were awarded gold medals. Such articles as dressing-gowns, collars and cuffs, light petticoats, and other charming furbelows are admirably made up in France. With fine linen or cotton, some embroidery, trimmings, lace, and ribbons, they make a vast variety of light and elegant nothings, of which women are so fond for themselves or for their babies. Mr. Lfion Dennery, one of the best known to American merchants, was awarded a silver medal for a choice selection of embroidered and printed handker- chiefs. It was a well-deserved medal, for Mr. Dennery has been veil known in the States for the last twenty years as a maker of tasty and elegant goods. Mr. Klotz, who was on the jury, had a fine show of men’s ties, •emarkable for their richness cf color and correct taste. This is [uite a Parisian trade. It was represented by several firms besides his maker, who, being on the jury, was out of competition. In fact, f we consider the class of collars and ties now selling, we must ad- nit that this trade is making its way in France. A few of the best mown firms are Messrs. Akar & Co., Bourgeois, Laborde, Tharel, Legde, Leprevost, Marix, and Meyer. The best English makers did 366 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. not exhibit, nor did the Germans, as I have said before, so that it was not possible to compare the goods made by the great industrial centers. I think, however, it -is not too much to say that the French are still at the top of the tree for tasty goods of superior quality, besides which they mount their articles better, arid have a style, of their own. of setting their goods off. AVe can not pass from Class 35 without referring to Messrs. Neyret & Co., who sent some good specimens of jersey fabrics. When, ten or a dozen years ago, the jersey fabric first came out, opinion was much divided as to its merits. Many thought such a fine-ribbed material, so soft and so elegant, had along run before it, while others gave it a couple of seasons at the outside. Messrs. Neyret & Co. were among those who had the greatest faith in the success of the novelty. They at once laid themselves out fully for producing it in large quantities. They put up looms for weaving it, and opened large workshops for making it up into garments. The success of the article has fully justified their spirit of enterprise, for the jersey, both as a fabric and as a garment, has stood the test of time and is likely enough to be in permanent favor. AVe saw it applied in other parts of the Exhibition, and especially in the ladies’ garment depart- ment, in which several firms, among whom were Le Roy & Co., showed some rich and well-made garments in jersey material, with velvet facings or trimmed with lace and ribbons. AVe awarded a number of prizes to foreign exhibitors, not only because France was under an obligation to her guests who had re- sponded so heartily to her invitation and had done so much to make the Exhibition a success, but because we wished to give every en- couragement possible to those industries which are springing up, and which will have been stimulated by the more perfect specimens sent by the old established firms. Greece, Japan, Roumania, and especially Servia, which alone had two hundred and forty exhibitors (to France's two hundred and eighty only), nearly a third of the entire number of exhibitors in this class — there were seven hundred and ninety-six in all — sent a quantity of articles made by women — • millinery, hosiery, embroidery, and gloves. These goods showed that there was an eager desire on the part of makers to produce tasty articles-. It was however at the same time apparent that their indus- try was still in embryo. AVe nevertheless took into account the fact that these people were making the most praiseworthy and patriotic efforts to make the best of the position in which they are placed, and so we gave them satisfaction as far as lay in our power. CLASS 36. — WEARING APPAREL FOR BOTH SEXES. If, when the various departments were being fitted up, there had been no serious dissensions amongst members of the committee of Class 36, there would most likely have been a better show of ladies’ TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 367 garments. Those foreigners to whom the great French dressmaking firms are so well known— Worth, Pingat, Doucet, Rouff, Laferriere, Raudwitz, Honnet, Morliange, Dasuzeau, and others, the great firms for ladies' hats, such as Virot, Laure, and many others — were justly .surprised at not seeing any of the remarkable creations of these houses in the clothing department. It was certainly most regretta- ble, that some little personal unpleasantness should have deprived us of the specimens which these great leaders of fashion might have supplied ; for the general effect was not by any means as brilliant, as it might have been, for that very reason. We must not, how- ever, on that account think less or speak slightingly of those who did exhibit, for they at least did their best to maintain the high reputation of French manufacturers. Those, who have never been present when a new fashion of dress has been made, have much to learn. It is an interesting sight only to be seen in Paris, for it is only there that those whose business it is to create fashions have at hand the various trades required in the mak- ing up of a lady’s dress ; silks, woolen stuffs, embroidery, lace, trim- mings, velvets, flowers, jewelry, millinery, ribbons, buttons, clasps, and what not. All the choicest productions of a score of different industries, combining on one spot the labor of hundreds of factories, and of thousands of skilled work-people. The fashion-maker is there in the middle of this magnificent selection of goods ; he chooses, com- pares, and tries, and the ideas come to his mind by the clash of colors, the bright sparkling of the gauze, and the charm of the embroidery. The beautiful dress, in the formation of which the contrast of materials lias so much aided and which is to be the ad- mired of all admirers in some grand drawing-room, takes form slowly under the anxious direction of this master of fashion. There it is at last, finished ! It is a genuine work of art, full of grace and beauty, and the charms of the beauty, who is to wear it, will be in- creased and set off by its symmetrical folds. There is less scope for variety in men's dress, and still tailors show no less talent m adorning the stronger sex. The materials shown by the great tailors were all that could be desired so far as richness and design were concerned, besides which there were several more or less successful attempts to bring out colored garments ; there were red, maroon, and blue coats, waistcoats, and trowsers ; some with flowers worked on the cloth, on light and bright grounds, all of which were risky things for men's garments. With regard to the mysteries of the art of cutting, only the ini- tiated ones can speak of them. Perhaps the distinguishing feature of this season’s cut was a tendency to produce more man] i ness in the garment, and avoid any appearance of effeminacy. The shoulders were made square and the shape close fitting about the hips. Most people will admit that a man should lie clothed so as to make his 368 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. strength, evident, and show his muscles. I rather like such hold cut- ting, for I think a tailor’s duty is to make men look more athletic and vigorous, and steer clear of any girlishness. Gilt buttons on a blue or red coat may be good enough for liveries, but for my part I prefer a plain and simple cut with dark materials. How- ever that may be, there were garments for all ages and all tastes in the great tailors’ show cases. What showed more than anything else the progress made in the tailoring trade was the uniformity of cut among the low-priced articles of everyday sale, for as the drapers now produce those printed cloths which have been so much talked of, and which were previously imported from England and Germany, the ready-made tailors took advantage of them to make up some most astonishingly low lines, such, for instance, as browsers at 0 francs and suits at 20. It was literally giving them away, and still they were not bad ; and a noteworthy feature was that the French cloths were of better quality than those imported from abroad ; the garments also were better made and more lasting. Hats and boots and shoes were included in this class, which com- prised no less than nine hundred exhibitors. Only five grand prizes were awarded ; three to France, one to England, and one to America. Christy & Co., the famous English hatters, obtained one, and the other, our countrymen, John B. Stetson & Co., the celebrated felt-liat makers, who brought out the hat which the Parisians have christened the “ Buffalo Bill.” Like all the other industries of which we have spoken, hat and shoe making have made enormous progress. I find I am making the same remark a number of times, but I can not do otherwise, it is only justice. Messrs. Fanien, Mossant, and Tirard, the three French grand prizes in boots and shoes and felt hats, do large export trades, and compete successfully against foreign makers under difficult circumstances. The boot and shoe factories are now fitted up with machinery, embodying the latest improvements. There is the keenest competi- tion between France, England, and Austria. I was rather surprised to find that the States were not represented in this branch as well as they were in [hand work ; in the latter branch, Beneke Brothers’ exhibit was greatly admired, and obtained a gold medal. The English make a superior article for which they have large markets in their colonies, whose population exceeds 300 millions. They obtained a gold medal, awarded to Messrs. Manfield & Son, who opened a shop in the heart of Paris (Boulevard Montmartre) ; another was awarded to Mr. John Lobb, also a good maker. Austria makes good shoes in styles similar to the French ; Messrs. Kompert Brothel's, for instance, who were awarded a gold medal, compete with French makers in the export trade. Certain countries. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 369 which formerly produced nothing, turn out very good boots and shoes now; for instance, Spain and the Balearic Islands, where there are two or three firms. Besides the above, Mr. Marexiano, of Monte- video, makes very fair imitations of French boots. It is the in- evitable law of supply and demand. Industries are springing up everywhere, and every nation is trying to do without foreign pro- ductions. That is the fact, and we must make up our minds to it. “ Time and tide wait for no man.” In South America mills have been started and they are prospering, so that France must look out for fresh markets or else improve upon improvement, if she is to keep in front. She will strain every nerve, that is certain, for she will not settle down quietly to accept the loss of these her oldest, consumers, especially as they are of the same Latin race, and bound to her by ties of friendship and “ auld lang syne.” Perhaps it may not be out of place to say a word here about cer- tain changes in style and manufacture. On the one hand, it is worthy of note that imitation leather is less used, its place being taken by cardboard, which answers better ; and, on the other hand, we were glad to notice that more attention is being given to clog making ; clogs are excellent wear, especially for children, and those sent by Messrs. Ranciot and Schwartz showed progress and obtained rewards. There were several manufacturers and connoisseurs on the jury, viz, Messrs. Appert, Touzet, and Galoyer, who know their trade well, and whilst anxious to acknowledge the merits of the firms who export most largely, they would not slight those who are noted for good workmanship in hand-made goods; they therefore rewarded many Paris and foreign firms, among whom I may mention Messrs. Coquillot, Jeandron-Ferry, Lobb, Bisch, and Pinet. Mr. Mirtil Mayer (gold medal) and a few other Paris firms showed a variety of articles in feathers for hat and dress trimmings, which were also applicable to boas, collars, cuffs, etc. It is one of the most interesting of fancy trades. How sad to think of the number of small birds annually destroyed to furnish the vast quantities of feathers required in these trades. How many woods and valleys which they * have enlivened with their song must now be silent and mournful from the absence of these poor creatures who have fallen victims to the beauty of their plumage! And this year you may see, not only one or two birds on a hat, but three, four, five, six! Let them clear distant forests, prairies, tropical countries, or the sunny banks of the Ganges of the birds which make their homes there, but let them spare the little birds of our own country, for if the race is sacrificed we shall lose the farmers’ friend. I hope, there- fore, that the Parisian ladies’ hatters will not empty the nests entirely. A French writer says in one of his works, “Do not put the woods in mourning.” H. Ex. 410 — vol. 2 24 370 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. And now a word about flowers. There were indeed some beauties, both for wear and for the house. Camille Marchais still makes improvements upon nature in the way of roses, so much so in fact that a bee tried one the other day, and Javey still makes begonias which out-begonia the begonia. Paris has long had the monopoly of artificial flowers, and even now, in spite of the keenest competition, it still holds the palm and is likely to keep it if quality is any criterion. Our American ladies know these delicate and charming productions; some are most inim- itable imitations of nature, whilst others are still more astonishing creations. The patient and artistic work-people who produce them can make anything, from the dewy lily to the blade of grass or friendly daisy. The materials for flower making are manufactured at Paris and Lyons; the fabrics are surely finer in texture than any rose leaf, nor can any butterfly’s wing vie with them for lightness. Fairy fingers dye, paint, and make up the flowers and leaves with such incredible dexterity that a hat trimmed with Paris flowers may go around the world and still, in spite of rain, wind, and snow, out- shine the real article. There is a new branch of artificial flower, viz, that of real corn, barley, etc., dyed in most shades and made up in sprays with grass flowers, thistles, or ferns, all of which are real, but prepared so as to keep for a great length of time. They look most delightful when placed in vases or bouquet holders, hung from the ceiling or on the walls. They are not expensive, and are so much like nature that we almost imagine we see upon them the distinct traces of the dusty field, the sun which brought them out, and even the morning dew. The chief apostle of this great change in the trade is Mr. Parent, who sent some really splendid specimens of his work. I must now try to find room for a word or two about ladies’ hats. The old saying still holds good that if you are out of fashion you are out of the world. If it were not so, I should have had my say against the singular shapes of hats in fashion this year. What i queer hats (almost like French priests’ wide-awakes) women do put on their heads now! How absurdly they project, what heaps of flowers and ribbons, and what massacres of birds! The wonder is that they can manage to look so charming under it all. How they do it the god of fashion alone knows. There were very few ladies’ hats at the Exposition, but I detest the new shapes so much that I am glad to curtail this article as I should like to curtail those dread- ful brims. I must not close my remarks upon this class without referring to [ the liveries shown by Mr. Sutton and other firms who make a spe- cialty of footmen's clothes. They were all very fine and stately; I am sure the fine big fellows who are to wear them will be set off to the best advantage in these tremendous coats; as they stand in TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 371 some lordly mansion they will only require javelins in their hands to make the illusion complete. As we leave Class 30 we are still detained to bestow a passing glance upon some excellent dresses sent by our great dressmakers. A remarkable one was a Greek costume shown by Madam Margaine; others were draped robes, embroidered on crape, exhibited by Messrs. Pasquier, Pansard, Ulliac, Le Roy, etc. Miss Linn-Faulkner’s case of hats and Mrs. Loisel’s exhibit of head dresses contained some curious articles of ladies’ and gentle- men’s clothing. I do not care for the theatrical style so much cultivated by our great dressmakers in the models of dresses and costumes shown. Everybody has not to go on the stage, and correct taste tends more toward simplicity. A simple gracefulness is the characteristic fea- ture of the work of a master, and I feel satisfied that many American ladies are of the same opinion. CLASS 37.— JEWELRY AND PRECIOUS STONES. This section was very popular, and rightly so. Not on account of the enormous quantity of gold and precious stones heaped up in such a small space, though that was perhaps one cause, but because of the talent shown in mounting these gems and so adding to their intrinsic value. What is most prized in a piece of jewelry is not the quantity of gold used; on the contrary, that is what tells against it in the eyes of a man of correct taste. What is observed is, to what extent the jeweler has taken advantage of the metal used, and what amount of grace and beauty he has imparted to the article, in order to give it that inexpressible charm, for which the object is more valued than for its weight. “ ’Tis true, ’tis pity, and pity ’tis ’tis true,” but the gentlemen, and particularly the ladies, since the fall in the value of precious stones, have shown a marked preference for gems over gold work. What ladies want now are quantities of precious stones to show the extent of their fortune, rather than artistic specimens of jewelry to prove their taste. I must, however, say that our American ladies begin to see the matter in its true light now; diamonds are already getting out of favor, and jewelry in the best sense of the word, that is, jewelry deriving its value from art and skilled workmanship, is being more eagerly sought after. And yet the Syndical Chamber of J ewelry has spared no effort to enlighten the public and to form artists worthy of their predecessors in the handicraft. It has done very much in that direction by publishing a literature specially in- tended to elevate the public taste, and set up art in opposition to mere wealth. It has opened schools and evening classes, where workingmen and apprentices may acquire taste and improve their minds, and it has always held up grace and charm as against an UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. excess of metal and gems. But, after all, tlie tendency in that direc- tion has increased, the purchase of gems being looked upon as an investment of money, so that the jewelry trade, as a trade directly interested in cultivating the public taste and encouraging art work- manship, has suffered to a certain extent. France stands first in this industry, and leaves all her rivals far behind. England is a close competitor, though she can only approach France by the help of her French draftsmen and leading hands. Those firms, who em- ploy Englishmen exclusively, turn out coarse, heavy, shapeless goods, having the very faintest relationship to art. Machinery has, more- over, been brought into operation and has revolutionized certain branches of the trade; as, for instance, the manufacture of chains, charms, plain bracelets, and stamped and pierced earrings. But if art has lost ground, trade has gained abundantly, and France can compete successfully with Germany, especially since the introduction of the expoi’t stamp, which enables French jewelers to make jewels of any standard required by purchasers, the standard of 750 thousandths (18 carat) being, however, still retained in the home trade. Jewelry of the lower standards maintains its superior- ity over that made abroad as regards taste, elegance, and finish, these being the distinguishing features of French over foreign mounts. There are also a number of French diamond-cutting firms, whose work is equal to that of the Dutch houses; the Parisian lapi- daries show great skill and the mounters much talent, so that suc- cess seems certain. Parisian jewelers are closely bound together by a very proud and very rich corporation. Several firms date from the last century. Bapst, for instance, was established in 1725, and Marrat Brothers in 181,0. They had a splendid and most artistic exhibit, which, how- ever, did not enter into competition for prizes, Mr. E. Marrat being on the jury. Mr. Boucheron and Mr. Vever both had very remark- able exhibits of fine jewels, and were awarded the two grand prizes obtained in that branch. Two other grand prizes were awarded, one to Messrs Savard & Son for their plated jewelry, and the other to Messrs. Topart & Ruteau for their excellent imitation of pearls. Tiffany & Co. obtained a gold medal, being in that respect placed by the jury on the same level as the best French jewelers, such as Fouquet, Rouvenat, Gross, Aucoc, Moche, etc. They have a world-wide reputation as gold and silver smiths. They had a most artistic exhibit in this class of goods in another section of the Exhibition; but we think proper, neverthe- less, to mention it here. This celebrated firm was remarkably successful in 1878, when Mr. Tiffany, who obtained one of the highest awards, was appointed Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. Their Paris branch is known to show masterpieces of high-class jewelry. Apart from the medals / f g i u ai si fa A pi 'cl si: ia: TEXTILE FABRICS. WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 373 awarded to them at the present Exhibition, the high honor, conferred by Government upon Mr. Tiffany in 1878, has now been conferred upon another member of the firm. All Americans will agree with me in congratulating Messrs. Tiffany & Co. on such brilliant and de- served success. It is an honor to them and to our country. CLASS 38.— PORTABLE WEAPONS, HUNTING. The Exhibition conveyed a very accurate idea of the small-arms trade as it is, for nothing that was shown was made specially for the Exhibition, many of the gun and sword makers having very slight confidence in the success of the undertaking. There was a very good show notwithstanding, and one in which the superiority of French goods was again manifested. It must, however, in justice be added that certain well-known English firms did not exhibit, and that Bel- gium, although well represented, had only a few exhibitors. Ger- many sent nothing; neither did Austria or Italy. There were a few Swiss and two or three Spanish exhibitors. The United States showed great superiority over all other coun- tries, even France, for machine-made goods. They make indeed for the million, and their arms being made entirely by machinery can be produced at prices which would be out of the question in Europe. As to this being desirable or not, opinion is divided, for it is alleged that such mechanical, almost automatical, production prevents prog- ress in such work as is made by that thinking tool, man. As the workman bends over his vise, file in hand, or checkers a pistol butt or gunstock, he imparts to his work a certain perfection and indi- viduality which can never be obtained by steam power; but how- ever that may be, the jury highly appreciated the arms sent by the Winchester Repeating Arms Company (grand prize), Smith & Wes- son, and Colt’s Patent Fire Arms Company (gold medals) ; and no doubt Mr. Gastinne-Renette, the foreman of the jury, himself a good judge, being one of our best Paris gunmakers and the grandson of a gunmaker, will state that opinion officially in his report, and ac- knowledge the superiority of the United States for the wholesale manufacture of ordinary repeating arms. In Europe the Government factories are the only ones in which the manufacture of arms is carried on extensively, so that the States are alone producers of low-priced articles. We have, therefore, been signally successful in this branch, and I am pleased to mention the fact. Paris, which enjoys a marked superiority, London, Liege, and St. Etienne have each connections of regular customers for fowling pieces and rifles. Paris especially makes arms to order for each pur- chaser. Such articles are of more accurate and artistic workman- ship than can be obtained elsewhere, and are easily recognizable as hand-made goods and made to order. During the last century there 374 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. was a gunsmith’s technical school at Versailles. It made a specialty of those magnificent swords and muskets of honor which the first republic awarded to its soldiers and generals for bravery, and which are still to be seen in the various museums; but when the Legion of Honor was established, the cross was substituted for the sword of honor, to the great detriment of art and the small-arms trade. Then, again, the necessity of producing wholesale gave the final blow to those masterly pieces of workmanship now so seldom met with. If we are to keep genuine master gunsmiths in the country, profes- sional schools must be established where the old traditions of the craft — which are the glory of the French — may be taught and handed down. In the mean time the art seems to have taken refuge in one or two Parisian and English shops, where those, who know what a good arm is, are able to find it. Class 38 did not show much that was absolutely novel, but it was noticeable on account of certain improvements on systems exhibited in 1878, and for a few changes made in the improved hammerless guns. The Belgian exhibitors showed some excellent arms; they are followingcl osely on the heels of the English and French. Leopold Bernard, cannon founder, Eley Brothers, Richards & Co. (England), Faure-Lepage and Gaucher-Bergeras, French firms, and Messrs. Heuse Lemoine and Pieper, of Belgium, obtained grand prizes. La Societe frangaise des munitions (grand prizes), which has bought up Messrs. Gevelot & Gaupillat’s, and other firms, has monopolized the manufacture of ammunition for pistols, revolvers, cannon, and mitrailleuses; it is a most important company now and makes good use of its monopoly. England exhibited some excellent cartridges, wdiile those sent from the States were, on the contrary, not worthy of the firms who sent them. The Government gunpowder mills still make improvements in their manufacture, besides, like many private firms, looking with ever-watchful eyes for any means of providing additional security for the work-people. In fowling pieces much progress was notice- able over the goods shown in 1878; the articles shown were Avell fin- ished and well made all through, and compared favorably with the English exhibits. Messrs. Lochet & Debertrand had an immense show case which was a source of great attraction for visitors; it contained the largest and most complete collection of dog collars ever seen. They showed an advance on anything produced so far, from the small velvet col- lar for King Charles’ spaniels to those enormous ones made of calf- skin. and bristling with steel spikes, for mastiffs, bull dogs, or New- foundland dogs, including, of course, many varieties of hunting dogs. Manufacturers of these goods complain loudly of the fraud- ulent imitations of their creations by unscrupulous makers at Berlin, I - I to TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 375 who pirate their designs, hut use inferior raw material in order to cut down prices. The arms sent by oriental countries and submitted to the jury were only interesting from an ethnographical point of view; their origin made them curious, and their gorgeous appearance, inlaid all over, as they were, with silver and mother-of-pearl, brought up the price, but as practical weapons they were almost worthless. CLASS 39 .— ARTICLES FOR TRAVELING AND CAMP EQUIPAGE. This is a section which should have been better tilled. Travel- ing bids fair to be the coming amusement, and there is every likelihood that an eager desire to see foreign lands will take posses- sion of future generations. Thanks to railways and fast steamers, traveling will soon be, comparatively speaking, easy and cheap. Voyages round the world will be organized by future Cooks, who will reduce the cost to a minimum, so that every young man and every new married couple will want to go on a trip. Exploring is in fashion now, and the number of explorers is daily increasing. I think Class 39 did not justify our anticipations. There was not a single new or practical trunk, one containing much but weighing little; nice, but substantial. Neither was there anything new in camping requisites. Jules Verne would not have found trunks to suit him, nor could de Brazza find an outfit or tents for his ex- ploring parties. What is the cause of this dearth? If what is said is true, I pity future trunk-makers, for they will most assuredly be cut out by the stores. It is reported that certain makers sent noth- ing for fear of having some unpleasantness with the stores here, the latter having monopolized the entire retail trade of the city, from sugar and coal (shown in cut-glass stands) to diamond brooches. If that is true, it is extremely regrettable and is worthy of attention as a sign of the times. Class 39, to which we are now referring, and Class 22 (paper hang- ings) were the only two of the 83 classes in the Exhibition in which the juries did not award grand prizes. There were, nevertheless, a few articles calling for notice in Class 39, so that we must not criti- cise too severely. The most novel and the prettiest article, which is, by the by, the one in which the largest trade is done, is the waterproof garment. Mr. McIntosh, who invented the tremendous India rubber capes to pro- tect people against London fogs, and which required a footman to carry them after a shower, must look down with pleasure on the modern ar- ticle. The Roubaix houses are now making the most beautiful water- proof materials possible for the mind to conceive or the heart to desire. They are made of pure silk, silk and wool, or silk and cotton, according to price. There are stripes, checks, shots, plaids, etc. , in every variety, UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. 376 and each more lovely than the other. These soft light materials are made up in Paris into the most charming garments imaginable; some have sleeves and hoods, some have neither; some bind at the waist, others do not, but all bear the unmistakable Parisian stamp; and as it is in the Parisian nature to create and invent, whether in hats, boots, or jackets, a new waterproof garment is brought out almost daily. The strangest .thing is that this cloak does not give a heavy appear- ance. On the contrary, it gives freedom and elegance to the ladies’ dress. Perhaps the reader smiles, thinking this is an advertisement in its way. This is not, however, my intention, and I invite any dubious reader to judge for himself by examining the goods produced by such firms as Messrs. Fayaud, Guibal, Hutchinson, and Torrilhon, who obtained gold medals. The Boston India Rubber Shoe Company obtained' a gold medal for their excellent India rubber shoes, as remarkable for perfect shape as for superior quality. Mr. Thuau showed a very good camp bed, which gained the prize in a competition opened by the secretary of war. He also obtained a gold medal from the Exhibition. Mr. Quillons, who had a splendid exhibit of military and explorers’ tents, and who makes a variety of excellent articles for practical use in camping, did not compete, in- asmuch as he acted as expert for the jury. We find Mr. Clair-Leproust here again with a fine show of small, light, portable, and elegant furniture, arm chairs, tables, and rock- ing chairs, which might be classed with those sent by Marks’ Adjusta- ble Folding Chair Company of the United States. Both obtained gold medals. Rewards were also granted to certain foreigers who showed some traveling and camping requisites made and in use in their respective countries, although such articles were less interesting commercially than geographically. These queer looking, and in some respects curious, productions are doomed to disappear as fast as civilization distributes its benefits to the different parts of the globe. CLASS 40. — TOYS. Class 40 obtained the greatest possible success with the juvenile public. This corner was perhaps the most crowded of all, especially on Sundays. It did one good to hear those children ; how they screamed with delight ! and how happy they seemed to be ! But now, with Christmas coming on. the choice of presents will be all the more difficult — so many dreams will call for realization, and so many promises will have to be kept. Class 40 only occupied a small space, but what a lively amusing corner it was ! It delighted everyone, not only little children, but big ones. TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 377 Immense progress has been made in this trade also within the last few years. Children are now catered for with the most infinite and incomparable talent. Inventors have never before shown so much ingenuity, and it, has not been in vain. The large central exhibit, which standing apart from the rest attracted general attention, was that of Mr. Emilp Jumeau, on the jury, and therefore out of compe- tition. It contained large numbers of babies (the name given to the modern doll) of the most incredible richness, in every position, and so intelligent. These are French dolls unmistakably. The heads are Sevres porcelain painted by real artists, and having luxuriant and silky hair. Their hats seem worthy of Linn or Virot, and their dresses are in the latest fashion, and made of rich Lyons silk of the latest style. Perhaps even they have set the fashion sometimes ; if so, the best dressmakers of the day need not be ashamed. Little girls could not leave the spot, they were so fascinated. Not far away and in the same style were the exhibits of Messrs. Steiner, Chevrot, and Rabery, who follow in the same lines as Mr. Jumeau. Mr. Steiner obtained a gold medal, and the others silver medals. Of course, in such aristocratic company we could hardly expect to find the poor child's dolly, the one whose glaring rags en- liven thousands of miserable garrets, where 2 cents is all that can be spared for such a purpose. It would have been too bashful in such a place; and besides, such goods woidd have interested no one. The old-fashioned common sawdust, wood, or cardboard doll is kept down by its price, and remains stationary. As a rule nothing was shown in any section but the finest productions of the respective trades ; the articles sent were in general accessible only to the rich, and if here and there a specimen of some ordinary arti- cle sold in the country was sent, it was hidden away in some corner of the cases. The grand prize awarded to Messrs. Lefevre Brothers was the just recompense of years of labor in the improvement of painted tin toys — soldiers, boats, carriages, etc., so as to keep up with German makers. They have succeeded. They have an important plant with powerful steam engines, and are known as manufacturers of articles made of metal which can be put in the mouth and are painted with harmless colors. These would be sufficient reasons to assure them a wide reputation, but, in addition, they bestow special attention on the making up and packing of their goods. These results have not been obtained without great sacrifices of money and labor. Amongst the gold medals mention should be made of the excellent colors and boxes of colors shown by Mr. Bourgeois, and the very excellent mechanical toys sent by Mr. Vichy. All our large Amer- ican stores contain mechanical toys made by this ingenious and care- ful maker. The smoking figures and the beautiful waltzers, keeping UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. time to tlie music, which have so delighted our young lads and our fair girls alike, are all his make. Mr. Rossignol is another cele- brated maker ; it is he who, by cutting out and mounting machines, has succeeded in producing those very cheap mechanical toys — I think they come as low as 8 francs a gross — locomotives, trains, car- riages. bread women, commissionnaires, etc., which have had such a run and are still so popular in the States. His mark, “ C. R.,’’ is well known to toy men, and his goods are largely exported to America, Amongst the members of the jury, and for that reason out of the ranks of competitors, I see the name of Mr. Derolland, the great India rubber toy manufacturer. His interesting exhibit contained a number of models well known in the States. There was the greatest possible variety in the faces ; there were the Punches, soldiers, and little girls hanging from a thread and squeaking when squeezed ; oxen, horses, donkeys, camels, dogs, cats, birds, all tastefully colored on the dull gray India rubber, which have emigrated by thousands to the banks of the Hudson or the Mississippi, carefully packed in small cardboard boxes. Messrs. Niquet & Bouchet (silver medal) make a similar class of goods. They showed some babies, i. e., dolls, made of India rubber and dressed in nice woolen jerseys, besides many other goods in the same style as those sent'by Mr. Derolland. Nor must I omit to refer to the gold medal awarded to Messrs. Vil- lard & Weil for their tasty wooden furniture and what not for children ; they were indeed far superior to anything of the kind made out of France. The reproduction of goats, sheep, and other animals, full size and having real skins or fleeces, is an important branch of this industry in France, and several makers have managed to make themselves a name in it. at the same time keeping prices down as low as possible. Mr. Crauser and Mr. Desportes, for in- stance, showed some very fine animals with bright gilded horns, trimmed with pink or blue ribbons, which make their respective cry when their head is bent down ; they seemed to me to call for more than a bronze medal. Perhaps the reason was that little prog- ress has been made in the trade since 1878. I can not help saying a word about the scientific toys intended for the older children, whom nothing amuses so much as to make easy and amusing experiments in physics and chemistry. Certain man- ufacturers, who are very learned men in their way, avail themselves of the resources of photography, telephony, the elasticity of certain bodies, aerostatics, geography, history, steam, mechanics, the nat- ural sciences, and the forces of nature, to produce some remarkable and most ingenious toys. The instructive toys shown by the great publishing firm of Dela- grave, the ships sent by Mallete, the instruments by Bassde Grosse, j the toy theaters by Reynaud, and even Mailing’s spring horses, were TEXTILE FABRICS, WEARING APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES. 379 ! all curious and interesting things, as also were Brissouet’s and Lau- rent’s balloons and Lepierre’s magic lanterns. Every little boy is half a soldier, so that the arms, guns, swords, cannons, panoplies, and pistols were all highly appreciated and well represented. Messrs. Chauvin. Bazin, and Blanchon were the chief exhibitors. Every little girl is half a housewife. In this line we saAV fur- nished houses made of metal and porcelain, battledores and shuttle- cocks, graceful games, dolls’ houses, watches and jewels, pictures and looking-glasses, haberdashery, and even the antiquated kaleidoscope. Messrs. Dumont, Carriere, Sevette, Rungaldier, Roulleau, Mei’cier, Poudra, Talon, Pean, Foliot, and Ouachee deserve our girls' best thanks. Mr. Jullien, who was the foreman of the jury in this class, showed some beautiful paper boxes, mercery, and cut-out work, which would certainly have been highly rewarded only that his office placed him out of competition. Our quiet lads are still as eager as ever to exchange their stamps with one another, and Mr. Maury still supplies them with large quan- tities. He showed a rich collection of all colors and countries. All the instruments of m usic, such as drums, tambourines, trump- ets, fiddles, flutes, etc., whether made for elementary instruction or for children’s amusement were exhibited, either by a very large firm, Messrs. Thibouville-Lamy, by Roulleau & Loiseau. or by Bigot, who sent a strange collection of musical instruments made of card- board and producing the most laughable, absurd, unearthly sounds that ever fell upon the human ear; I believe they have been taken up by certain societies of rather noisy, jolly good fellows. Two very good makers, Mr. Dutheil and Mr. Duhotoy, each sent good sets of children’s carriages and dolls. Mr. Clienel’s horses and carriages were remarkable in many respects, as also were Mr. Mon- charmont’s masks. And now a last word about toys suitable both for children and grown-up persons. Mr. Janou and Mr. Jost showed those fine large race courses, which help to pass the time away in the casinoes of our watering places. Messrs. Foin & Dumon also sent a fine collection of games, such as billiards, croquet, bowls, skittles, etc., which are so much appreciated in summer afternoons. Mr. Arthaud sent some fine dominoes, dice, chess, draughts, and other similar games in bone and ivory. Mr. Halle, the well-known maker of theatrical accessories, showed some gnomes, big heads, and sedan chairs for children. Among the toys sent by foreign countries we noticed some which had a fanciful turn and possessed a certain lege idary interest, but nothing calling for special remark, unless it was peoLhps some 'Chi- nese and Japanese dolls with strangely expressive faces, but they were intended for the theater and not to amo.se children, :,80 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 18.89 AT PARIS. CONCLUSION. I am afraid in this short summary I may have missed many things and omitted many names, but I have been as brief as possi- ble so as not to tire the reader. The articles unmentioned through oversight can not. of course, speak for themselves, but if I have neglected to mention persons worthy of note here, I may be exposed to some little annoyance and perhaps to ill feeling on their part, which might break in upon my usual quiet life. I hope, however, it will be clearly understood that I have not wished to dissatisfy any one, and that I do not by any means pretend that this is a literary production. I have tried to give a little accurate information which I hope may be of service to Americans. My countrymen can not, I am sure, in the course of their flying visits to Paris form a very correct opinion as to the actual situation of French industry, and I have been anx- ious to give them some idea of the astonishing progress it has made in the last twelve years, which progress, I am happy to say has been universal. If I have succeeded to some extent, I shall consider that my labor has not been in vain, and any little unpleasantness I may have brought upon myself will weigh lightly upon me. Paris Exposition of 1889— Vol. 2. Plate XVIII. JEWELRY. REPORT UPON JEWELRY. By GEORGE F. KUNZ. In the center of the French jewelry section, Class 37, was exhibited the Imperial or Victoria diamond at one of the four central corners, by Bapst & Falize, the historic Sancy diamond, weighing 41 carats, and a necklace composed of pink, blue, yellow, brown, black, and other colored diamonds. This section contained an immense number of fine and curious diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and other precious stones, as well as several interesting lapidary exhibits, and nearly fifty exhibits of imitation stones of all kinds, imitation pearls, etc. A carved diamond turtle, a fly, and some curiously drilled diamonds were of more than ordinary interest. The Imperial diamond was found at the Cape diamond fields and weighed originally 457 carats. The weight at present after cutting is 180 carats, 74 more than the Kohinoor, and 44 more than the Regent. It is held by a syndicate of French and English jewelers. At the Exposition there were three exhibits at which the branches of cutting and polishing were carried on. At the Holland pavilion the display made by Boas, of Amsterdam, had a number of polishing wheels, the motive power of which was steam, as well as a machine reconstructed, showing the manner in which man-power was utilized jin the eighteenth century. With this exhibit there was a large series, illustrating the various forms of cutting the brilliant, rose and table, as well as all the forms of rough diamonds, such as cleavages, splints, those for glass-cutting, and shaped for especially adapted tools. Two Belgians exhibited diamonds — one, Latinie, a perfect yellow octahedral diamond weighing 300 carats; a diamond cross cut from a single stone (which is not unique, as claimed by the exhibitor, for such a stone was contained in the Hope collection, and was illus- trated in the Hope catalogue of 1839); some fanciful and curiously cut brilliants; a small sword cut out of three diamonds; and the name of the exhibitor in table diamonds, seventeen of which were nearly an inch in length. In the main aisle, Coutermans, of Antwerp, had an exhibit with the polishing wheels, an exhibit of the diamonds in the altered kim- 381 382 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. berlite, and a black diamond weighing 30 carats, which, it was reported, had been purchased by the Shah, but of which in reality he only inquired the price. The most important exhibit was that in the United Diamond Mines Building, in which every process connected with the mining and cut- ting of the diamond could be seen under one roof. First, the large sacks of earth, were thrown upon a screen, which sifted the material into a large wasliing-pan. or “ compound,” as it is called, about 15 feet in diameter. In this compound all the soft mud, light particles of shale, kimberlite, quartz, calcite, and other minerals whose specific gravity is less than that of the diamond were floated out. and in the center the diamond, garnet, pyroxene, and heavier minerals were concentrated. These concentrates were then carefully sorted, the garnets and the diamonds being the only ones of value. In connection with this exhibit were shown models, or, rather, re- productions, made of earth, and small model's, exact duplicates of the machinery and the tunnel systems used at the mines. The De Beers Consolidated Mines exhibited, in a large central case, 5,138 carats of rough diamonds. This case Avas securely covered with an iron cage, like a parrot-cage in form, and from the maker of the caging in which the Koliinoor diamond was exhibited at the London Exposition of 1851. In this exhibit was a cut diamond, the largest brilliant in the world, weighing 228-2- carats, which in the rough had weighed over 400 carats; one large octahedral crystal weighing 306 carats, and a collection of 983 carats of fancy-colored crystals, of white, mauve, pink, orange, yellow, brown, and black; also a large 1 j number of distorted and curious crystals. The Bulfontein Mine ex- hibited 11,227 carats of rough diamonds, and the Griqua Land West Diamond Mining Company a parcel of 45,003 carats. At the opening of the Exposition the diamonds were valued at 22 shillings a carat, and at its close at 38 shillings, so great has been the I ! advance in the price of rough diamonds. One thousand sacks of dia- mond earth were washed at the Exposition, and the average amount ; of diamond found was l-j carats to a load of earth. In connection with this exhibit was the cutting of diamonds, carried ■on by M. Roulina, who reintroduced diamond cutting in France, and is one of the few men abroad who has utilized a machine for the pro- cess. This machine, however, is very primitive in comparison with j the more perfect one invented 15 years ago in the United States and in use here since. There were also diamond-piercing machines in operation. These required from 20 to 30 days to pierce a diamond t of about 2 millimetres in thickness. Not without interest was a diamond which had been a beautiful | white stone of about 9 carats, but which was shattered into frag- ments while undergoing the polishing process on the wheel. JEWELRY. 383 In the French jewelers’ section was exhibited what was perhaps the most remarkable collection of jewelry and precious stones ever shown at one time. Beginning with the Imperial diamond in the center aisle, which the owners claim outrivals the famous Regent's diamond of the former exhibition, we find other notable French jew- elry; seen at its best, although the gems shown may have been finer and larger, and the jewelry more faultless, so slight was the ad- vancement over that- of 1878, that to anyone having seen both, the present seems scarcely more than a rearrangement. The tendency of the entire French jewelry seemed to have been a faultless reproduction of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI jewels. It is in “figure work,” that is to say, in representations of the human figure, that the French excel. Whether in metal work, wood-carving, plaster, stone, or in painting, they use the human fig- ure with an amount of freedom, skill, and success which is most striking, as well as worthy of emulation. Their taste in colors, as in mural decorations, for instance, is also very notable, even if we make proper allowance for the fact that the decorations of the ex- hibition have no doubt been executed by the best of French work- men. It is the exercise of this taste and skill which gives the French manufacturers of bronze their preeminence. There is noth- ing in the materials or processes of manufacture with which we are unacquainted, or with which we can not become acquainted if we think fit, yet it would appear that we are not able to produce designs of sufficient merit to compete in the markets of the world with the bronze manufactures of Paris. A repousse plaque and one or two small stands, however, were fully worthy of the best Christofle traditions. They were not, as a group, equaled in the Exhibition; they have never been surpassed by any previous work of the great house itself — these were the statuettes, whether purely ornamental or for cups and prizes. Of the former, a female figure in ivory and gold was a miniature perfection, as beautiful as anything possible in marble, and of the greatest refine- ment. The figure could not be too closely scrutinized. The produc- tions of Christofle’s atelier were emphatically works of art, and whether of men or of animals, the modeling was perfect. They were equally easy and lifelike in repose or in action, and they told their tale as plainly and as charmingly as the marble or the figure painting of the great men of the ’fine arts. Boucheron, Bapst & Falize, and Vever, and Sandoz occupied the four corners of the jewelry section. Boucheron’s exhibit was re- markable for its delicate and faultless diamond mountings, fine pearls, large sapphires, and marvelous gems, as well as for some superb pieces of enameled work; Bapst & Falize for their jeweled pieces, among which were reproductions of those made a century ago oS4 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. by the same firms, the latter exhibiting the original Saucy diamond in a setting similar to the one made for it in the eighteenth century in the time of Marie Leczinski. Vever's exhibit was remarkable for the necklace of colored dia- monds and for his fine gems rather than for the fine work exhibited. He showed a variety of artistic pieces; one of the most charming was a hand mirror adorned with a fine foliage in chased green gold on a yellow background. The handle of this consisted of two tails of mermaids entwined in a snakelike way, at the base of which was a pink pearl. In passing through the jewelers’ section let us notice Teterger’s spray of geraniums in enamel, of so perfect a rendering, so light and natural. Gustave Sandoz exhibits some lovely pieces. His corsage garniture in the shape of a bold yet regular ornament, bordering the top of a low-neck bodice, and gracefully coursing down to the center of the waist, has an elegant effect. His bracelet, divided in small pieces and decorated in enamel of a tender hue, is very pretty. A rather attractive glass case is that of Mr. Fornet, of Bourg-en-Breese (near Lyons), who exhibits some special kinds of articles called “ Emaux Bressans,” whose style was already known and in very great favor in the Gallo-Roman period. They consist of rings, brooches, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, etc., in vermeil filagree and enamel. The center of the display is occupied by a fine little mirror, under- neath which we remark an inkstand of pretty design. Mr. Fornet has greatly changed that peculiar genre from the old-fashioned style, and it is now somewhat different, chiefly consisting of enamel on clnampleve. Although that abandonment of an ancient track may be amply justified from a business point of view, yet one can not help regretting the old crosses in the shape of a double hatchet, the hearts with pendants, the rings so naively ornamented, and the vari- colored jewels called papillons which, not many years ago, were still worn in the southern part of France. EFFORTS TO REVIVE ENAMEL WORK. Our high-class jewelers and goldsmiths are making serious efforts to revive the fashion for enamel work, and among them Froment Meurice, Poussielgue-Rusand, Bapst et Falize, Boucheron, and Vever, have already obtained some remarkable results. Enamel has never been utterly abandoned by jewelers, who have lately made some dainty pieces in that line, but goldsmiths and orfevres-bronsies for churches had for many years somewhat neglected it. All attempts to revive it had proved very unsatisfactory. There seemed to prevail a general belief that the art of Leonard Limouzin, Peni- caud, and Raymond must be considered extinct. A few years back some enterprising artists endeavored to find out the old secrets and. JEWELRY. 385 little by little, they came to the conclusion that what had been done centuries ago could be done quite as well at the present day, on con- dition that enamelists could find patrons to encourage their efforts. Unfortunate attempts were made some time ago by several silver- smiths to introduce enamel into articles of daily use. Goblets and breakfast cups so adorned were sold to maybe careless customers, who soon brought them back to their makers in a very bad condi- tion, and could not be made to understand that such repairs must be very expensive. I have seen some of these pieces; most of them consisted of Re- naissance ornaments, finished off in oxidized silver, whose back- grounds and intervals, previously hollowed by the aquafortis process, had been filled up with the enamel of well-opposed colors. The work was obtained at a rather reasonable price; but I must say that it would not bear a very close inspection. No doubt our old artists were right in removing the metal ( which had to make room for en- amel) by the help of several gravers, variously edged for that pur- pose. By so doing they managed with their skillful hands to finish their pieces to a nicety. Until we find another process, allowing us to do the same work quite as well but much quicker, we had better follow their example. Strange to say that although competent, the French jewelers were given awards according to the quality of their articles exhibited, yet many of them were not makers but simply purchasers and exhibit- ors of jewelry that they had selected from designs shown them and which had been made by jewelers who are simply manufacturers and not retailers. From amethyst episcopal rings to catheral reliquaires de St. Louis altar pieces, and sanctuary gates, in no case does the lavish use of gold, jewels, and mallet, engraver, or carving in chisel lead to tawdry splendor. Even as gathered together in one mass of burnished gold and precious stones the effect was wondrously “rich, not gaudy,” and as used in the more gorgeous ceremonials of the Catholic Church the magnificence would be thoroughly harmonious. Blais & Cie. , P. Brunet, and Armand Galliat are the principal ex- ponents of V orfevrerie religeuse, and seem much on a level. The Norway and Sweden section consisted of almost entirely higli- y colored enameled work very like the Russian and a reproduction )f the old Norway and Swedish designs. The jewelry in the American section, although exhibited by only ne firm, Tiffany & Co., of New York, was remarkable in the fact hat it was entirely produced in the workshop of the exhibitor. It lumbered in all about two hundred pieces, of which no two were like, and the variety of objects represented every branch of the eweler’s art. Specimens of the gold work, representing the most in- jricate carving, chasing, wire filagree and other forms as well as H. Ex. 410— VOL. 2 25 386 UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1889 AT PARIS. delicate colors of the gold, helped to show off the precious stones, pearls, as well as the enameled flowers, the quaintly cut stones and the subjects, which were remarkable for their originality. The enameled orchids, as well as the mignonette, a marvel of gold and enameling, were perhaps one of the most striking features of the entire Exposition. The apple blossom watch and the enameled orchids, some two dozen in number, were all faithfully reproduced by careful studies direct from the living plants. First made by pro- ducing the model in soft unannealed silver, which, from its softness, could readily be shaped into a perfect facsimile of the flower and thus forming a permanent model for the worker. The colors of the flowers were copied by the coloring artist who produced not only the elaborate colored sketches, but reproduced the exact color of each petal by dissecting the flower. In the mignonettes the stamens had only the thickness of a hair, but had on them two distinct colors in enamel. The representation of the heliotrope was even more re- markable, for not only the flower, but the unopened buds, were per- fectly simulated in green gold. An enormous piece of diamond work was the Garniture de Cor- sage, containing 2,200 cut diamonds. Two crystal vignettes and bonbon boxes made of rock crystal, from North Carolina, were remarkable not only for the jewel work and gold work but for the success in carving the rock crystal. Among the more remarkable pieces of jewelry may be mentioned at random, a diamond necklace worth $150,000; a diamond neck- lace with a single stone in it weighing 77 carats; a pearl necklace, value $30,000; a sapphire pendant, value $12,000; a chrysolyte watch and pendant in the Empire style, value $3,000; a black pearl brooch containing eight of the finest pearls in the Exhibition; a pendant con- sisting of six Ceylonese cat’s-eyes, value $8,700 — superb piece of East Indian gold work; a forget-me-not smelling bottle and watch in the spray of a blossom. The objects themselves are for the most part manufactured from American metals, precious stones, skins, woods, and other American products, while the models themselves are due in many instances to direct studies from the Chillkat, Sitka, and Inuits Indians of Alaska, the Zuni and Navajo Indians from New Mexico, the Sioux Indians from Dakota, and the other Indian races of America. The four grand prix were awarded for jewelry, Class 37. They were obtained by Bouchernon and Vever for jewelry, by Savard & fils (imitation of jewelry), and by Topard & Ruteau for imitation stones. No grand prix for jewelry has ever been awarded to any foreigner. A collection of precious and ornamental stones of North America, as well as a collection of foreign precious stones, was displayed by Messrs. Tiffany & Co. in the American section. The former collec- JEWELRY. 387 tion was contained in a circular case 9 feet in diameter, on a platform erected at the intersection of the four aisles of the American section. This collection was formed for the purpose of illustrating the occur- rences of the precious and ornamental stones in North America, and contained many of the finest examples that have been found, some unique, others entirely new. This collection was the result of pur- chase, completed by generous loans from some of our prominent mineralogists, and was an object of interest to the many visitors of the Exposition. One of the features of the jewelry exhibit was the utilization of American stones and pearls in jewelry, notably tourmaline, beryls (yellow, green, and blue), rock crystal for vials and boxes, and pearls from the Unios in a large variety of objects, the motive as well as the materials employed being American in character. Among the more important things in this collection Avere some small diamonds from California, a series of the original crystals of sapphires collected by Col. C. W. Jenks when he opened the Jenks mine in Franklin, Macon county, North Carolina, among them the first sapphire found in the United States — a ruby of fair color; some American crystals and cut topaz from Cheyenne Mountain, Colorado; one of the largest crystals of emerald from Alexandria County, North Carolina, loaned by Mr. Bement; the cut aquamarine, weighing 13311- carats, from Stoneham, Maine; thirteen cut aquamarines from Mount Antero, Colorado, found at an altitude of 14,000 feet above the sea; a number of cut spessartite garnets, one of which weighed 96^ carats, from Amelia Courthouse, Virginia; a series of colored tour- malines, both cut and crystal form, from Mount Mica and from Au- burn, Maine; a collection of pearls and the shells in which they are found on the shores and in the rivers and brooks of North America. Some notable things in the Tiffany foreign collection were a series bf twenty-four fancy-colored sapphires, weighing from 2 to 20 carats, and showing every color of the spectrum; some fine alexandrites, chrysoberyls, and zircons from Ceylon; crystals and cut euclase from Brazil and Siberia, and a number of interesting precious and orna- nental stones. Paris Exposition of 1889— Vol. 2. Plate XIX No. 2. THE MOST IMPORTANT DIAMOND NECKLACE AND PENDANT AT THE EXPOSITION. Fine river brilliants, center stone carats. Design, American hazel-nut bud. Value, $150,000. Paris Exposition of 1889 Vol. 2. JE No. 3. NECKl Diamonds wit h i 1 Plate XX. -- STYLE.” Yalue, $8,000. No. 4. PENDENT BLACK PEARLS AND DIAMONDS. Pearls from Gulf of California. Green black, fine luster. Paris Exposition of 1889— Vol. 2, Plate XXII JEWELRY. No. 5. VINAIGRETTE— " BEAR AND BEES.” I Bottle smoky crystal, North Carolina. Mounting in colored gold, Shodo, Shakado, and other llapanese metals. Paris Expos. tion of 1889 — Vol. 2. Plate XXIII. JEWELRY. No. 6. VINAIGRETTE— “ROSEBUD." Stem-pierced gold work. The bulb five (5) large Ceylon moonstones, leaves diamonds, and the bud proper cut out of crystal from Ashe County, North Carolina. Paris Exposition of 1889— Vol. 2. Plate XXIV. JEWELRY. No. 7. SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PENDENT BROOCH. Value, $12,500. Exposition of 1889— Vol. 2. Plate XXV. BROOCH— STUDY AFTER THE HUPA INDIAN STRAW BASKET WORK. lets from Arizona and Amelia County, Vir- I Pendant enameled. No. 9. BROOCH— STUDY FROM HORSE-HIDE SHIELD OF SIOUX INDIAN. Round, liig-li dome brooch, open section in center. Miami River white pearls. Tiny green shots of en- amel toned with other colors. No. 10. BROOCH— STUDY AFTER “FLORIDA PALM." j sapphire irom Montana. Pink American pearls from Miami hio. Enameled ornamentation of various colors. No. 11. BROOCH WITH PENDANT— STUDY FROM CHILKAT INDIAN BASKET WORK. Fancy colored diamonds from Brazil, S. A. Enameling after wood-carving Chilkat. IBROOCH— STUDY FROM "HUPA INDIAN." II » ;arls from Little Miami River, Ohio, with ■id diamonds. No. 13. BROOCH— STUDY FROM NAVAJO INDIAN. Treatment of the New Mexico wood violet. Light bluish green, and white enamel with diamond centers. Pink pearls, Little Miami River, Ohio. Blue green sapphires, Montana. JEWELRY. Paris Exposition of 1889 — Vol. 2. Plate XXVI, No. 14. MATCH SAFE — STUDY AFTER NAVAJO INDIAN STRAW WORK. California gold quartz cut en Cabocliou in top. No. 15. UMBRELLA HANDLE— STUDY FROM A CHILKAT INDIAN EAGLE HEAD. Rich chased gold diaper. Abalone pearls set in head. American turquoise in comb. American Miami River pearls in feather decoration on neck. JEWELRY. Paris Exposition of 1889 — Vol. 2. Plate XXVII. mmmm EsKiS ir: i::r. * li»* 9 **'****~«'***-** n ''** * * * ****4toiJ i®bs> «:-:j 5K5 Jt:; aw»rfffl| S*ir : »r^-«* v .*<»;». ■St -*"*»•« "“p <««* v «v MSiMTf T . ■*-* v <”* ■* X l J p T*» ■*T a !,'*. T T -■«*•«• < T*!TY'i »,* .. ••.V.U4««jr '••I’Sna H*H-:-OI J «?i'V T » «• ’ • »»**.•< n» «a.v » »* nii\y ;„ro i r-%v - ; ui wn::r.ys?;sm |5te£?: ^ j j? : ? £ ; i ^ * ir; : n£ 3 $ HSS&a&Oftfls r )* tet ^tHassEBm JEWELRY. No. 16. PURSE RICHLY CHASED, GOLD MOUNTING. Bead pouch with small American pearls woven together with small glass beads. Paris Exposition of 1889 — Vol. 2. Plate XXVIII. No. 17. ORCHID BROOCH — "CATTLEYA BICOLOR," BRAZIL. Five brown leaves, delicate enamel purple center, border of brilliants, emerald and diamond stem. No. 18. ORCHID BROOCH— ODONTOGLOSSUM ALEXANDR/E CRISPINA, COLOMBIA. Enamel delicate yellow with white and brown spots; lip yellow; border and stem dia- monds. No. 19. ORCHID BROOCH — AN GRxECUM EBURNEUM, MADAGASCAR. Five green gold leaves of pave of emeralds, white gold lip pav6 of diamonds, green calix. JEWELRY. Paris Exposition of 1889— Vol. 2. PLATE XXIX. No. 20. SILVER WAITER. Paris Exposition of 1889 -Vol. 2. Plate XXX.