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A 
 
 TREATISE 
 
 ON 
 
 HABERDASHERY 
 
 AND 
 
 HOSIERY, 
 
 INCLUDING THE 
 
 MANCHESTER, SCOTCH, SILK, LINEN, AND 
 WOOLLEN DEPARTMENTS: 
 
 WITH 
 
 CONCISE METHODS OF CALCULATIONS, RATINGS, 
 TABULAR REFERENCES, 
 
 AND 
 
 REMARKS ON THE GENERAL RETAIL TRADE; 
 
 ARRANGED 
 
 AS AN EXPEDITIOUS AND PRACTICAL INTRODUCTION FOR 
 THE APPRENTICE, A GUIDE TO THE ASSISTANT, 
 
 AND REFEREE FOR THE COUNTRY DRAPER. 
 
 BY E. E. PERKINS. 
 
 LONDON: Z 
 
 T. HURST, 65, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH V^ARD. 
 
 1833. 
 
J, AND C. ADLARD, PRINTERS. 
 BARTHOLOMEW-CLOSE. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The object the writer originally had in 
 view was certainly very far from that of 
 publishing; but circumstances drawing his 
 remarks to their present length, and some- 
 what in the form they now assume, con- 
 nected with the request of a few trades- 
 men, he has been induced to venture on 
 an appeal to public judgment. 
 
 Unlike a work presented for general 
 amusement or instruction, and of course 
 open to a majority of unqualified judges, 
 this is of the most exclusive character ; 
 it is not, however, expected by the writer 
 that his labours are to be supported, nor 
 does he fear that they can be rejected, 
 by the merely fastidious ; but he flatters 
 himself they will be in demand in propor- 
 tion to their capabilities in teaching many? 
 
IV. 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 and to the every-day conviction of its 
 general utility. 
 
 He desires to say to the junior part of 
 his readers, that three months’ application 
 to the recommendation laid down in the 
 Introduction, ought to constitute them 
 efficient haberdashers; a circumstance cer- 
 tainly as desirable to themselves, as it must 
 be advantageous to their employers. 
 
 In point of fact, so much favour, fee, 
 and narrow-mindedness, had passed under 
 the writer’s notice, during fourteen years’ 
 active employment, that to place in a com- 
 parative state of independence the junior 
 to the senior hands for instruction, was 
 originally his principal aim. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A constantly well-assorted haberdashery 
 counter will ever command a regular, 
 steady custom, and will, in a greater degree 
 than some few are willing to admit, ce- 
 ment a general family trade, and tend, 
 more than any kind of goods, to increase 
 it. Experience, however, teaches this to 
 he true ; therefore, a thorough knowledge 
 of all its parts is of the highest importance, 
 and cannot be too often insisted on. A 
 notion has for years been indulged in, 
 that this department properly attaches 
 itself to the junior hands, and that in a 
 measure it is beneath the attention of the 
 seniors ; nothing need be said more, than 
 that the notion is grounded in error, and 
 that its effects make it a subject much to 
 be regretted. 
 
 There is every reason to attach much 
 importance to a correct list of colours, to 
 prevent omissions and double ordering. In 
 looking through coloured stocks, (ribbons 
 particularly,) the most ready way to pre- 
 vent such, is to take the first color on the 
 list, see in that color what width usually 
 
VI. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 kept is missing, or in too small a quantity^ 
 never omitting to refer to that, in nine 
 cases out of teny useless thing y a reserve 
 drawer y for the same purpose, and pro- 
 ceed regularly through the list. 
 
 The same recommendation is peremp- 
 tory with .the whole of haberdashery ; and, 
 in general, if the entire stock were subject 
 to the like method, a system would be 
 engendered highly advantageous to all 
 parties, particularly the employers. An 
 ordinary stock may thus be run through 
 effectually in four hours, and the list itself 
 arranged, instead of occupying, as is 
 usual, the fourth of as many days, prior to 
 the employer’s going to town. 
 
 To conclude this Introduction: the 
 reader is reminded, that improved machi- 
 nery, as well as caprice, are continually 
 re-christening the same goods ; therefore, 
 as the usual names of most goods are pre- 
 sumed to have been tolerably well attended 
 to, it will be only for him to charge his 
 memory where such is called for, from the 
 above, or any other cause, and to add it in 
 his own writing. 
 
 N.B. Goods marked thus * in the 
 margin, are obsolete in concerns of mo- 
 dern establishment. 
 
A TREATISE, 
 
 &C. 
 
 STAY WHALE-BONE. 
 
 This article is bought by the lb., generally in 
 bundles of 10 or 12 lbs. weight, and cut in 
 lengths of half-a-yard or for the use of 
 women’s stays. 
 
 Inches 
 
 wide. 
 
 Inches 
 
 No. wide. 
 
 Inches 
 
 No. wide. 
 
 ' ^ 
 
 7 
 
 13 li 
 
 f 
 
 8 
 
 
 14 ij 
 
 ' ^ 
 
 9 1 
 
 15 If 
 
 ■ i 
 
 10 f 
 
 16 2 
 
 •re 
 
 11 I 
 
 17 2J 
 
 A 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 
 18 3 
 
 BUTTONS. 
 
 Pearl Buttons — are of four holes, or with 
 shanks ; their sizes are known by the num- 
 bers — 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Their qualities are 
 decided by their whiteness and substance. 
 
 Wire Buttons. — Their qualities are deno- 
 minated common, super, best ; and for sizes 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 are called — spangle, shirt, and waistcoat. 
 This article is a small iron (formerly brass) 
 ring, covered to its centre with fibres of thread 
 or cotton. Bought by the G. gross. 
 
 Cambric Buttons — for distinction, are 
 called, common, super, best, spangle (or 
 very small.) May be had in black, white, and 
 colours. This has quite as good a claim to 
 the name “wire button” as the foregoing, 
 the ring being made of the same material and 
 size ; but, from its being covered with cambric, 
 it is called such. Bought by the G. gross. 
 
 Mould Buttons — used for striped cotton 
 shirts ; called, common, super, best. There 
 is also a very fine quality button of this de- 
 scription, but called sugar-loaf, and is gene- 
 rally used as an ornament for dresses. They 
 each resemble a sugar-loaf, but the latter 
 is rather more conical. Bought by the G. 
 gross. 
 
 TAPES. 
 
 Manchester, alias Incle, alias Begc^ar’s 
 Tape, is of a coarse whited-brown colour. 
 
3 
 
 made of linen, is in pieces of nominal 1 8 and 
 sometimes 24 yards each. Progressive widths 
 are understood by the Nos. 3J, 3|, 4J, 5, 6, 
 7, 8, 9, 10, 13. Bought by the dozen or 
 gross. 
 
 N. B. Each paper contains two pieces, con- 
 sequently six papers to the dozen. 
 
 Holland Tape — -is made of linen, and in 
 pieces of nominal 18 yards each. Bought by 
 the dozen or gross, and for its progressive 
 widths is known by the Nos. 13, 17, 19, 25, 
 27, 135, 139,145,151. The three first num- 
 bers have generally two dozens in each paper ; 
 the two next one dozen each, and the remain- 
 ing four only half-a-dozen each. 
 
 Scotch Tape — is made of cotton ; also is 
 made in imitation of the Holland ; is of the 
 same widths and numbers, is papered in the 
 same quantities, and bought in the same way, 
 but may be had in nine-yard lengths as well 
 as eighteen. 
 
 Dutch Tape. — The difference between this 
 and the Holland is simply that the latter is 
 made coarse and thick, the former fine and 
 
 B 2 
 
thin, and its numbers more numerous, being— 
 11,15, 19,23, 27, 31,35, 39, 43,47,53,59, 
 65, 71, 81, 91, and 101. It is bought by the 
 dozen, is made of linen, and the four first 
 numbers have generally two dozens in each 
 paper ; the four following, one dozen ; and the 
 remaining nine, half-a-dozen each ; each piece 
 is of nominal nine yards. This article, as 
 well as the following, is said to have 24 pieces 
 to the dozen ; indeed, it will be found that on 
 the outside of each paper it is printed to that 
 effect ; but it has never been said why, nor 
 has any reason been assigned for it ; for, 
 although there are certainly 24 pieces in 
 each paper, generally up as high as No. 23, 
 and by chance as high as 31, yet they are 
 always invoiced as dozens, that is, as two 
 dozens, and not as one dozen of 24 pieces. 
 
 Imperial Tape — is of cotton, and made 
 to imitate the foregoing in every other par- 
 ticular, 
 
 Dutch Diaper Tape — made of linen, and 
 sometimes called Heronbone tape. It very 
 much resembles stay-binding, but is consider- 
 ably finer ; it has nine yards in each piece. 
 
5 
 
 and the progressive widths are known by 
 Nos. 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 
 54, 60, 66, 72, 82, 92, and 102. Is bought 
 by the dozen. 
 
 Imperial Diaper Tape — is of cotton, with 
 the exception of which it resembles the fore- 
 going in every particular. 
 
 Black Tapes — may be had either of linen 
 or cotton, 18 or 9 yards length, and of the 
 same numbers as the Holland or Scotch ; is 
 generally from ’^d. to 4d. a dozen higher in 
 either width of the same No. in white. 
 
 Carnation, alias Pink, Tapes — may be 
 had both in linen and cotton, have 18 or 9 
 yards in each piece, and for progressive widths 
 called Nos. 16, 24, 32i 
 
 THREADS. 
 
 ^Scotch Oz. — is in one-oz. hanks, conse- 
 quently there are four to the quarter lb. ; it 
 is a soft and pretty thread, but not so much 
 used as formerly ; its progressive qualities are 
 known by the Nos. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 
 
 B 3 
 
6 
 
 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 
 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 
 58, 60. It should be observed, the quantity 
 of skeins contained in each bank or ounce, 
 agrees with the number of quality. 
 
 Example. — No. 18, from its being coarse 
 and heavy, has only 18 skeins to the oz., 
 whereas 40, from its being fine, has the same 
 number of skeins, i. e. 40 to the oz. ; this being 
 a standard, there is no occasion, in selling half 
 or a quarter of an o^., to weigh it. 
 
 Scotch Threads — in lb. papers, for the 
 purpose of sewing woollen cloths, coarse 
 linens, &c. &c., is made in whited-brown, 
 black, drab, sorted drabs, olives, and all colors, 
 and its progressive qualities are known by the 
 Nos. 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20. Generally 
 bought by the dozen lbs. 
 
 Patent, alias Shrewsbury Thread — is 
 in lb. papers, for the same purpose as the 
 foregoing ; may be had in the same colors ; 
 is bought in the same quantities, but its pro- 
 gressive qualities differ, being Nos. 9, 14, 16, 
 18, 20, 22, 25, 30, 35. Marshall and Green- 
 are considered the best makers. 
 
Patent Stitching, aZias White Thread^ 
 alias Long Reel, (otherwise in long skeins,) 
 for the use of sewing of white goods where 
 strength is required. It is in lb. papers ; its 
 progressive qualities are known as Nos. 50, 
 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100. Bought by the 
 dozen lbs. 
 
 *WiRE Thread — is in half ounce hanks, 
 four of which are in one paper ; which four, 
 making two ounces, it follows that eight of 
 these separate papers make the lb. ; its pro- 
 gressive qualities are Nos. 8, 10^ 12, 14, 16, 
 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 
 42, 44, 46, 48, 50. This article is made quite 
 stiff, from which it takes the name of wire 
 thread. Till within these ten years it was in 
 general demand, but now is scarcely used by 
 any others than bonnet-makers. The best 
 makers are considered to be Gordon, Dun- 
 Stan, and Carlisle, 
 
 *Lisle Thread^ — formerly was used for the 
 working of very fine cambric, but now (it may 
 be said) never asked for. It was originally 
 made of hemp (at Lisle, in France, from 
 whence it derives its name,) but is now made 
 
8 
 
 of cotton. Its progressive numbers are from 
 30, advancing by decades to 180; the ad- 
 vancing numbers from the lattter are Nos. 
 200, 240, 250, 280, 300, 340, 350, 380, 400, 
 500. Is bought by the lb. 
 
 *Lace Thread — for the purpose of mend- 
 ing any kind of lace or bobbin-nett. It was 
 formerly made of hemp, but is now made of 
 cotton. It may be known from the Lisle 
 thread by its being quite soft, the reverse of 
 the former. Progressive qualities are Nos. 90, 
 95, 100, 105, 110, 115, 120, 125, 130, 135, 
 140, 145, 150, 155, 160, 165, 170, 175, 180, 
 185, 190, 195,200, 210, 220. These are all 
 and each in hanks, differing in number of 
 skeins according to their respective qualities ; 
 are in quarter lb. papers, and are bought by 
 the lb. 
 
 *Gymp Thread — for working of flowers 
 and other objects on muslin, netts, &c. &c., 
 is in one ounce hanks, consequently four to 
 the quarter lb. ; it is of several ijz plys, ad- 
 vancing in single numbers from 2 to 12, and 
 is for numbers known by Nos. 10, 12, 14, 16, 
 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 
 
9 
 
 42, 44, 46, 48, 50. ply” means the (many 
 or few) small threads composing the whole, 
 which, from this article being made quite soft 
 and slack, is observable at first sight. This 
 gymp thread is now in very little demand. 
 
 Flourishing Cotton, alias Glazed Cot- 
 ton — is used for the same purpose as the 
 gymp thread ; but differs from it by being a 
 thread simple, that is, not composed of more 
 than one ply; is an article highly calendered, 
 but yet quite soft ; it is in one ounce hanks, 
 and of course four of such to the quarter lb. 
 Is bought by the lb. ; its progressive qualities 
 are known as follows : •^, and Nos. 1, 2, 
 
 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 
 24, 26, 28, 30. 
 
 N. B. May be had in blk. of the same 
 numbers. 
 
 India Cotton, alias Mending Cotton, 
 alias Darning Cotton — is used for repair- 
 ing cotton hose ; is to be had in colors, as well 
 as black and white ; is composed of two 
 threads, each quite soft, one of which is 
 generally larger than the other ; is always in 
 quarter lb. papers ; that which composes the 
 
10 
 
 quarter lb. is sometimes in quite small skeins, 
 the size of a skein of thread, whilst others (the 
 major part) are divided into ounces, and each 
 ounce is equally divided into four equal parts. 
 Progressive qualities are Nos. 8, 10, 12, 14, 
 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 
 40. Bought by the lb. 
 
 Trafalgar Cotton — is used for the work- 
 ing of muslins, netts, &c. &c., is papered and 
 divided in the same manner as the foregoing, 
 and is of the same numbers. It very much 
 resembles the Indian, but the difference is that 
 it is made of three threads, each equally fine, 
 and it is twisted less hard. 
 
 Moravian Cotton — used now nearly al- 
 ways rather than any of those named before, 
 for working objects on muslins, netts, cam- 
 brics, &c. ; is on reels of wood, and supposed 
 to have from 100 to 150 yards on each. Is 
 bought by the dozen or gross, and is not un- 
 derstood by numbers, but by the quantity of 
 plys, which are from 3, advancing in single 
 numbers, to 14. It is quite soft. 
 
 BonnetOotton, alias Welting Cotton, 
 
11 
 
 alias Stay Cotton — is an article very simi- 
 lar to lamp cotton, is used for several parts 
 of women’s stays, muslin bonnets, &c. where 
 steel, wood, or whalebone, would be too stub- 
 born. It is bought in bundles of nominal 
 lOlbs. weight, but seldom exceeds 81bs. Pro- 
 gressive qualities are, common, super, best. 
 In contradistinction to staybone, there has 
 lately been introduced a very thin kind of 
 whalebone, for caps, bonnets, &c. Its widths 
 are determined by consecutive numbers from 
 1 to 6 inclusive, and in those to be had in 
 white, black, and covered, i. e. the black is 
 covered with thin linen. There is also a cane, 
 used for the same purposes, and is for widths 
 known as 1 to 4 each inclusive. The former 
 is bought by the dozen stripes, the latter by 
 the lb. 
 
 It may not be amiss to say here, that all 
 goods sold by weight are of the lb. avoirdu- 
 poise, for as those things, such as wire and 
 Scotch threads, which are put up in 2 oz. and 
 1 oz. papers, and scarcely ever by any trades- 
 man marked but by the price per lb. the 
 shortest method of calculation would be advi- 
 sable ; therefore divide the price per lb. by 8, 
 the half of which is the price per oz. 
 
12 
 
 Knitting Cotton — used for knitting 
 gloves, socks, braces, fringes, and other or- 
 naments, is sometimes in J lb. papers, (as the 
 India,) but more frequently in bundles of no- 
 minal 10 lbs. each; when in the latter, its 
 quality is known by the, color of the thread 
 with which the separate parts (usually J lbs. 
 each) are tied ; such, for example, as buff- 
 tie, blue-tie, pink-tie. When in J lb. papers 
 its progressive qualities are Nos. 8, 10, 12, 
 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 40, 50, 60. 
 The difference between this and the India is, 
 that this is twisted quite hard. 
 
 Coloured Ball Cotton — is in two dram 
 and quarter ounce balls ; is in quarter lb. 
 parcels, consequently, four to the lb. If a 
 person be about to sell a quarter lb. of the 
 2 drams which are loose, he need not weigh 
 them, but count 32 balls to the quarter lb. ; 
 and, as a matter of course, 16 to the same 
 weight of the quarter oz. balls. Progressive 
 qualities are known by the Nos. 8, 10, 12, 
 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30. 
 
 N. B. Each of these numbers may be had 
 in three different qualities of material, viz. 
 common, super, best. 
 
13 
 
 White Ball Cotton — is in 2 drams and 
 quarter oz. balls; is in quarter lb. papers, 
 same as the coloured, and have 32 and 16 
 balls to the quarter lb. Sometimes, however, 
 there are 18 and frequently 20 balls to the 
 quarter lb. in the latter, this is effected by 
 their being wound on slacker; and, as they 
 appear quite as large as those which have 
 only sixteen to the quarter lb., it is an in- 
 ducement for many tradesmen to give them 
 the preference; as 3(i. or Ad. per lb. extra 
 profit is realized by them. There is, perhaps, 
 a greater variety of manufactures, and conse- 
 quently sorts of cotton, than of most other 
 sorts of goods, but they all agree in their 
 numbers for progressive qualities, viz. 8, 10, 
 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 
 34, 36, 38, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 
 80, 85, 90, 100, &c., some few makers a 
 number or two higher. 
 
 N. B. progressive qualities, 'm. the sense 
 here and before used, is to be understood 
 the progressive sizes of the cotton in either 
 sort; for, although each number above an- 
 other it is in proportion finer, yet is made of the 
 same quality material. The cardinal qualities 
 are understood to be common, best, patent. 
 
 c 
 
14 
 
 Consistency in the extreme must not be 
 expected in the duties of the counter, if it were, 
 a person may suppose this patent to be better 
 than the best; which would be contrary to 
 the rules of old Murray; but, in point of fact, 
 it is better. It may be remembered then, from 
 this precedent, that as many patents are of 
 recent dates, those makers of goods which 
 have preceded them, are allowed to hold their 
 ranks for distinction only, and not for supe- 
 riority. 
 
 Those ball-cottons known by numbers, 
 having been named, it will now be necessary 
 to say, there is a common and best quality 
 known by letters : the distinctive letters for 
 their qualities vary too much to allow any 
 attempt at a scale, some beginning with A 
 and going through the alphabet, others not 
 reaching higher than s. But there is Naish’s, 
 wound in diamonds; its qualities are known 
 by the letters o, a, b, up to i. There is an 
 imitation of this article at about two-thirds 
 its price. In reference to cottons in general, 
 it should be remarked, that they are not so 
 simply, (that is, not made merely of one 
 length of cotton,) but of two, three, or more 
 fibres ; which, for the purposes of sewing, are 
 
15 
 
 twisted together, hard or less so, agreeably 
 to the judgment of the makers. The quality 
 of such is not decided by the fineness of the 
 thread only, but by its being quite white ; 
 also, by its being free from that down with 
 which the common quality is covered. The 
 method by which this is effected is by its 
 passing quickly through a flame of gas : and 
 now speaking of gas, it may be remarked, 
 many things are spoken of as gased. Remem- 
 ber, no linen goods of any kind can of neces- 
 sity need such a process, as the act of gasing 
 is to render the appearance of linen on cotton 
 goods. 
 
 Reel Cotton — is intentionally of a very 
 superior description; and so it certainly is, 
 where and when it is really good ; but there 
 are many inferior goods of this kind. How- 
 ever, Chappee, Fletcher, and Taylor, have 
 supported their pretensions. Chappee’s num- 
 bers are from 1 to 500 ; it is called six-cord 
 cotton, because it is made of six plys, each 
 of which, having been previously twisted, is 
 no more a ply, hut a cord; all these being fine, 
 in proportion to the number intended for the 
 reel to bear, are then twisted together. In 
 
 c 2 
 
16 
 
 the ball cotton it will be observed, that every 
 number in advance is of a higher price ; but 
 in this article, every reel, coarse or fine is the 
 same price; each measuring 300 yards, and 
 is bought by the dozen or gross. 
 
 Taylor’s are in the same numbers and 
 lengths ; he has them also in 200 and 100 
 yards long, prices in proportion : these lat- 
 ter are most times of different numbers and 
 not so numerous as the foregoing, having no 
 more than 12 sizes, viz. from 1 to 12. No. 1 
 agreeing in size with 20 in the longer lengths, 
 and so on in proportion. 
 
 India Cotton on reels, may be had in 
 colours, as well as white and black; also 
 marking cotton and marking silks; all bought 
 by the dozen or gross. 
 
 Marking Cottons — in small balls, are 
 bought generally by the hag, varying in weight 
 from one ounce to one pound ; is ingrain, 
 that is^ it is dyed previous to its being twisted, 
 and by the addition of a chemical process the 
 colour is immoveable. The progressive qua- 
 lities are known as Nos. 50, 60, 70, 80, 90^ 
 
17 
 
 100. The scarlet, or crimson, are each about 
 45. per lb. higher than any other colour. 
 
 PINS. 
 
 Pound Pins — are either in one ounce, two 
 ounces, or in lb. papers; and are to be had 
 in various qualities; may be had in sorted sizes 
 or not, but most frequently assorted from 
 No. 3|- to 5 inclusive. 
 
 S. W. The abbreviation for short whites, 
 are also to be had as above, and with the 
 following are bought by the dozen lbs. 
 
 Pins in papers of any kind (black except- 
 ed) are governed by one rule, viz., two 
 packets, or bricks, each containing 12 single 
 papers ; every two of such single papers being 
 bound together with a slip of paper ; and these 
 12, thus bound together, are considered a half 
 dozen. Now here (the very contrary of the 
 imperial tape, as at page 4,) are 24 papers to 
 the dozen, therefore recollect, one packet or 
 brick of pins is but half a dozen; although 
 there are in it 12 papers, for finding the price 
 per single paper, (by which in the retail they 
 are always sold,) it may, as an example, be 
 
 c 3 
 
18 
 
 shown, by supposing the packets or bricks 
 two in number, to make one dozen, and to 
 cost 5s. The packets or bricks, as has been 
 said, contain 24 papers, and are supposed to 
 cost 5s., the half of which, one packet or 
 brick, alias one dozen papers, costs 2s. 6c?. ; 
 then consequently, each single paper costs 2ic?. 
 
 This is something of the method of calcu- 
 lating by the dozen, (as it is called,) and it 
 has generally been found by far the quickest, 
 independent of which, many who have been 
 notorious for their adroitness in calculations 
 have been guided principally by its dictates. 
 
 The rule is simply this : Whatever be the 
 quantity, bring it into dozens by dividing it 
 by 12, and as many pence as the price may- 
 be, say as many shillings per dozen ; then 
 multiply the shillings by the quantity (and 
 parts, if any,) of the dozens. 
 
 Examples. 
 
 96 yards at llj. Say 12 times 8 are 96; 
 well then, 8 doz. at 11s. 6d. Again, 75 yards 
 at 8J. Say 12's in 15 are 6 times, and 3 over ; 
 well then, three being a quarter of a dozen, 
 allows you to say 6| dozen at 8s. 3d. Again, 
 69 yards at 1 0|. Say 12’s in 69 are 5 times, 
 
19 
 
 and 9 over ; nine being* J of a dozen, admits 
 it to be 5j dozen at 10s. 9d. Again, 100 
 yards at 4|. Say 12’s in 100 are 8 times, 
 and 4 over ; four being J of a dozen, you 
 say, 8 J dozen at 4s. 7id. Should any quan- 
 tity be of an odd number, such as 97 at I li, 
 you may say 12’s in 97 are eight times, and 
 one over; well then, 8 dozen at 11s. 6d. 
 makes £4 12 0, and one yard added makes 
 it £4 12 111. 
 
 Now, if it were 100 yards at 3d. 6d. 9d. or 
 lid. reverse the rule, and take the price for 
 quantity, and put quantity as shillings for the 
 price ; viz. 100 yards at 3d. three is a quarter 
 of a dozen; well then, 4's in 100. But when 
 it may be 100 yards at lid. say 100s. are' 
 £5 0 0. and deduct 8s. 4d. 
 
 Pins in papers are called Country, alias 
 Common. Progressive sizes are 
 
 Bills, alias Lillikins. 
 
 S. W. do. Short Whites. 
 
 Nos. 12, 31, 4, 41, and 5. 
 
 G. S. W. alias Gilt Short Whites. 
 
 G. M. alias Gilt Middlings. 
 
 G. C. alias Gilt Corkings. 
 
 Lace Pins. — A very long or slender pin, 
 
20 
 
 \lsed for pinning on the papers on lace, netts, 
 &c. from which they derive the name. Pro- 
 gressive sizes are 
 
 Lo. Wts. alias Long Whites. 
 
 Lo. Lo. Wts. alias Long Long Whites. 
 These are also in mixed papers, same as the 
 common pins. 
 
 Patent Pins. — The patent granted for 
 this article was not only for its being made 
 of superior wire, but in conjunction with the 
 improved make of its head. Progressive 
 sizes are 
 
 Lillikins; S.W. B. B. SJ ^ F4. S. C. 
 M. C. B. C. D. C. T. C. and Blanket Pins, 
 which last has several sizes, known as follows 
 R4. F. H. Lo. F. H. Nos. 1 and 2. 
 
 Black Pins.— They differ from all others 
 in their quantities, one brick being consi- 
 dered as a packet, and which contains only 
 10 papers. Progressive sizes are 
 S.W. alias Short Whites. 
 
 Middlings. 
 
 Corkings. 
 
 Blue Black PiNS—are of the same sizes; 
 
they are made of the same material as fish- 
 hooks. These are not so liable to rust as the 
 ordinary black wire. 
 
 White Pins with Black Heads — are for 
 sizes in common with the foregoing patent 
 pins. 
 
 White and Black Cotton Cords — are 
 in bundles of about lOlbs. weight. Progres- 
 sive sizes are, 0, 00, 000, 0000, 1, 2, 3, 
 4, 5, 6. They are also to be had in bundles 
 of the same weight, but each bundle contain- 
 ing an assortment of sizes on the above scale. 
 They are also to be had in pieces of one do- 
 zen yards each, for which they are generally 
 a trifle higher in price. 
 
 Bobbins — are in papers containing each 
 two dozens, consequently six papers to the 
 gross, but they are bought by the dozen. The 
 common, made of linen, are for progressive 
 sizes, known as 
 
 Nos. 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15. 
 
 Scotch Bobbins — made of cotton, of the 
 same numbers, and made to imitate the above. 
 
22 
 
 Phillips’s Imperial, alias Phillips’s 
 Best Twist, alias Dutch Bobbin — made of 
 linen ; it has two dozens in each paper, con- 
 sequently six such to the gross. Progressive 
 sizes are Nos. 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115, 
 117, 119, 121, 123, 125. 
 
 N. B. 105, 107. 109, 111, are round, and 
 the following seven numbers are flat. The 
 same disposition is observed in the following 
 article, which is made to imitate this. 
 
 Imperial Twist, alias Imperial Bobbin 
 — made of cotton, and in imitation of the 
 foregoing article in every particular. 
 
 Common Cotton Twist — used as bobbin, 
 is in papers of one dozen each. Progressive 
 sizes are Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. 
 
 Waddings — are in sheets, are made of 
 cotton, and called common, best, bleached; 
 for sizes are -J, -J, and ^ ; are bought by the 
 gross. 
 
 N.B. The bleached are generally called 
 French. 
 
23 
 
 NEEDLES. 
 
 Needles are called Crown, alias Common ; 
 Chappie, Royal Improved, Best London, 
 Best Chappie, Best Sorted Ditto, Glover’s 
 alias Blunt’s, alias a short thick round-eyed 
 needle, and blunt point, used by glovers, 
 breeches makers, and tailors. Yarn, Loop- 
 ing, and Knitting Needles, Williams’s, Da- 
 vis’s (now Horton’s,) Sheppard’s, G. Boul- 
 ton’s. All these are bought by the thousand, 
 papered in forty separate parcels, each a 
 quarter of a hundred : are for sizes known by 
 the Nos. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7, 8,9,10,11,12,14. 
 Each paper contains, as is said above, 25 
 needles of either of these numbers ; or have 
 the same quantity assorted in the following 
 manner ; 3 to 7, that is to say the paper con- 
 tains 5 of No. 3’s, 5 of No. 4’s, 5 of No. 5’s, 
 5 of No. 6’s, and 5 of No. 7’s, which makes 
 the quarter of a hundred. The different as- 
 sortments, then, are 3’s to 7, 4’s to 8, 5’s to 9, 
 6’s to 10, 7’s to 11, 8’s to 12, each inclusive. 
 
 N. B. Lo. stands for Long; therefore, all 
 papers marked so are to be understood to 
 contain darning needles ; if the abbreviation 
 
24 
 
 be followed by other of the same, the sizes of 
 the needles are to be considered large in pro- 
 portion to the recurrence of the abbreviating 
 Lo. 
 
 The difference between the cotton and 
 worsted darners is, that the worsted darners 
 are much stouter and longer, and the eye is 
 also considerably longer. 
 
 To find the price per single paper, at a 
 given price per thousand, divide it by 10, the 
 fourth of which is what you require. 
 
 Green Canvass, alias Green Bolting — 
 is used for window blinds, the covering of 
 meat-safes, &c. Its widths are known as fol- 
 lows: -i- yard, |, J, |. 
 
 The pieces are of uncertain length. Some- 
 times, and by some houses, (Morison’s, and 
 Leafs,) they are sold in one or two dozen 
 yards, and called pieces. 
 
 Yellow Canvass, Yelloav Bolting 
 
 — used by children at schools for samplers, 
 is of the same width, and subject to the same 
 uncertainty for length as the above. There 
 is also a fine white bolting for the same pur- 
 pose, about seven nails wide, but a degree of 
 
25 
 
 uncertainty exists as to if they have any par- 
 ticular numbers, or if they vary in width* 
 The writer has never seen but this one width, 
 nor more than three qualities, viz. at 16d. 19d. 
 and 21d. a yard. 
 
 Rug Canvass — is an article used for the 
 working of fancy worsteds or yarn on, for 
 the various ornamental squares, rounds, &c. 
 which are put on tables, sideboards, &c. to 
 prevent their being scratched, or otherwise 
 damaged. It is also used as the base of 
 hearth-rugs, and from which one may be dis- 
 posed to say it derives its name. It may be 
 had in widths, as follow ; i yard, 
 and are known for numbers as. Nos. 1,2, 3, 
 and 4. 
 
 Brown, as well as White Strainers, 
 alias Cheese Cloths — are for widths as fol- 
 low ; i yard, |, X, The lengths 
 
 are uncertain, sometimes in dozens. The 
 white is a trifle higher in price than the 
 brown. 
 
 Bed Lace, alias Bed Binding, alias Fur- 
 niture Binding, or Lace — is made of cot- 
 
 D 
 
2b 
 
 ton ; the progressive qualities of the white are 
 Nos. 0, 1,2, 3, 4. 
 
 Chintz Binding. — Progressive qualities 
 are termed Common, Best. 
 
 These are also used for binding white di- 
 mity and printed furnitures ; and the follow- 
 ing for binding bed-ticks and mattresses, viz. 
 
 Blue Striped, Common, Best. 
 
 Do. Diamond, alias 
 None-so-Pretty 
 Each of .the above bindings are bought by the _ 
 gross, one of which is contained in a paper, 
 divided into two equal parts, or half grosses, 
 (6 doz. each.) 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Furniture Fringes. — These are gene- 
 rally in three dozens, and for widths are 
 known by the quantity of inches, viz. 
 
 21 Inches deep. 
 
 3 Ditto ditto. 
 
 31 Ditto ditto. 
 
 4 Ditto ditto. 
 
 Is, for distinction, called Plain Head, Plain 
 Head and Bullion, Plain Head and Bullion 
 Knotted, Gymp Head and Plain Bullion, and 
 Fancy, that is, Gymp Head and the Bullion is 
 
27 
 
 more than usually worked : are bought by the 
 dozen. 
 
 Ribbon Velvets — made of cotton, are for 
 widths understood as follow; Id. 2d. 3d. 4d. 
 6d. 8d. lOd. 12d. 14d. 16d. 20d. 24d. 30d. 
 36d. and 40d. They may be had in black, 
 white, and colored, and are made in imitation 
 of the following. 
 
 Ribbon Velvets — made of silk, are for 
 width as follow : J, i, j. Id. l^d. 2d. 3d. 4d. 
 6d. 8d. lOd. 12d. 14d. 16d. 20d. 24d. 30d. 
 36d. May be had in white, black, and all 
 colors, and, with the cotton, may be had (or 
 rather are made) in 12 yard lengths. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Common Quality, alias Worsted Bind- 
 ing, about 1^ inch wide. 
 
 London Quality, alias Best Quality, 
 of the same width. 
 
 Double London Quality — same as Lon- 
 don quality, only wider. 
 
 Shoe Quality — same as the above, only 
 
 d 2 
 
28 
 
 narrower, about f inch wide, and is of two 
 qualities, viz. Common, Best. 
 
 The whole of the above may be had in 
 white, black, and all colors, including; in- 
 grains ; and, with the two following, (which, 
 from these not being made in all colors, shall 
 be named by themselves,) have four pieces to 
 the nominal gross, each and all such pieces 
 being reckoned to contain 36 yards, though 
 they do not measure more than 24 yards. 
 
 Venetian Binding — is a fine make of 
 worsted binding, made in narrow and broad 
 widths ; it is tighter woven than the foregoing 
 bindings, and used as the binders of Ve- 
 netian blinds, from which use it is said to 
 derive its name. 
 
 Carpet Binding — is about a nail (2J 
 inches) wide, is very coarse, and made in 
 greater quantities in green and brown than 
 of any other color. There is also a very 
 coarse binding of the same width as this, 
 striped with different colors ; it is made of 
 thread and worsted. 
 
 Blue Cotton Tape. 
 
29 
 
 Blue Axminster Tape, alias Blue and 
 White Striped. 
 
 Stay Tape — is an article used by tailors for 
 edging of coats, &c. In each of these ar- 
 ticles there are four pieces to the gross, though 
 they do not contain more than 24 yards in 
 each piece. 
 
 Thread Lines are in White, Black, and 
 all colors. Cotton, ditto, ditto. Worsted, 
 ditto, ditto. 
 
 Each of these are in papers of a gross each, 
 divided into two equal half grosses. The 
 article is used for drawing up of curtains, 
 blinds, &c. 
 
 Stay Bindings — are a kind of twilled 
 tape, for the binding of stays, from which they 
 have their name, and for their qualities and 
 widths are known as follow : Narrow, Broad, 
 Super, Double-Broad ditto. Some houses 
 number them from 1 to 5, advancing with, 
 and agreeing in quality to, the above. 
 
 These goods are to be had too in colors, 
 but only of two qualities, viz. Common and 
 Best. Each piece contains 24 yards, conse- 
 quently, six to the gross. 
 
 D o 
 
30 
 
 Cotton Ferrets resemble tapes, but are 
 much stouter ; are to be had in black, and all 
 colors. For qualities are called Common and 
 Best. 
 
 Silk Ferrets, alias Italian Ferrets — 
 are to be had also in Black, White, and co- 
 lors ; these, however, are only to be had in 4d. 
 widths, whereas the cotton can be obtained 
 (as is commonly the case) in 2d. as well as 4d. 
 widths. Each piece of the silk contains 
 nominally 36 yards, consequently, four pieces 
 to the gross. 
 
 - Thread Webs — are in white as well as 
 brown, for their widths are known by the Nos. 
 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. They have 36 yards to 
 the piece, consequently, four to the gross. 
 
 Children’s Swaiths — are made of linen 
 or cotton, are about 2|- or 3 nails wide, and 
 for lengths are called f , ^ . Bought by 
 the dozen. 
 
 Paste Boards — are in White, Blue, and 
 Blue and White ; what is meant by Blue and 
 
31 
 
 White, is, that the previous two named are 
 on each side the same; but this last is blue 
 on one side, and white on the other ; by some 
 they are called party. For quality they are 
 termed, 3 sheets, 4 sheets, 5 sheets. Are 
 bought by the gross. 
 
 Card Boards — are only a superior board 
 to the above, for their colours are called the 
 same. 
 
 LACES. 
 
 Cotton Laces — called as follows, are of 
 various qualities in each description, and 
 bought by the gross ; each dozen is tied by 
 itself, and then bound together in one gross, 
 viz. 
 
 Striped 
 
 Round 
 
 Flat 
 
 Oval 
 
 White, 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Black, 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Colored, 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 The Baladine — being 
 
 a superior lace, 
 
 must be named separately. It is made in 
 
32 
 
 imitation of the silk lace of the same name, 
 and, when the silk was first imitated, it was 
 in thread, but now of cotton. It is made in 
 the Round, Flat, and Oval, and, in common 
 with other cotton laces, is made in I-, f, -J, 
 
 8 10 12 14 
 
 4> 4 > 45 4 • 
 
 Silk, or Real Baladine Laces— are 
 about half an inch wide, and for lengths are 
 as the above imitations they very much re- 
 semble a braid, but are more neatly made, are 
 more elastic, and consequently stronger than 
 any other kind, (worsted excepted.) Are to 
 be had, in White, Black, French White, and 
 all colors. 
 
 The Common, or Ordinary Silk — are 
 to be had in Black, White, and all colors, of 
 any quality, and either Round, Flat, or Oval. 
 For lengths are called, |, f , f , ^4. 
 
 Bought by the gToss. 
 
 Worsted Laces — may be had in White 
 and Black ; Round, Flat, and Oval ; are of 
 various qualities, and for lengths are called, 
 h h ¥• Bought by the 
 
 gross. 
 
33 
 
 WIRES. 
 
 RiiEL Wire, alias Bobbin Wire — is a 
 wire on reels of wood, from which it derives 
 its name. In this form it is also more handy 
 to be used ; it is to be had in White and 
 Black. Its progressive sizes are Nos. 3, 4, 5, 
 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. It is in Jib. reels, 12 of 
 which make 31bs., and this forms one paper; 
 four of such make the dozen pounds, by 
 which quantity, or the gross, it is bought. 
 
 Wire in Skeins — is to be had in white 
 and black. Its progressive numbers are the 
 same as the above for reels. It is in half 
 pound bundles, 6 of which make 31bs., and 
 which forms one paper ; four of these make 
 the dozen pounds, by which it is bought. 
 
 Statute Galloons, alias Silk Ferrets, 
 alias Flannel Bindings — are used for the 
 binding of flannels ; are made of silk and cot- 
 ton. It has 36 yards in each piece, conse- 
 quently, four to the gross, and for widths are 
 called 2d. 4d. 6d. 8d. lOd. 
 
 For finding the price per yard, at any 
 2 
 
34 
 
 given price per gross, divide the price per 
 gross by 4, which gives the price per piece, 
 and divide that by 3, which gives the price 
 in shillings for one dozen, consequently, as 
 many pence per yard. This is the old plan 
 by the dozen, there being 36 yards in each 
 piece. 
 
 Ribbon Wire — is an article used by bon- 
 net-makers instead frequently of the common 
 wire. It may be had in White, Black, and 
 Coloured, either in silk or cotton. It is in 
 single and double widths; the single is about 
 J inch wide, is a kind of very porous tape, at 
 the extreme edges of which is inserted a small 
 rib of wire, from which it derives its name, 
 “ Wire Ribbon.” 
 
 The double is not quite half an inch wide, 
 and, with the exception of its width, only 
 differs from the single by having an addi- 
 tional wire in its centre. 
 
 They are each supposed to have 36 yards 
 on each board or piece, consequently four 
 such to the gross ; but the pieces never mea- 
 sure more than 24 yards each. It is bought 
 by the gross. 
 
 There is also an article called Wire Piping, 
 
35 
 
 used for trimming’ of caps. It is one wire 
 covered with silk, plain as well as figured. 
 It is in all colours, and is, for the purposes to 
 which it is applied, superior to the foregoing. 
 
 Scotch Gauze alias Catgut — used by 
 dress-makers, &c., for stiffening dresses, and 
 for the foundation of bonnets ; it is either in 
 12 or 24 yard lengths. Progressive quali- 
 ties are Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and is to be had 
 in white and black. 
 
 Stiff Muslin alias Foundation Mus- 
 lin — is used for the same purpose as the 
 above ; is to be had either in white or black, 
 as well in 12 as 24 yard lengths. Progres- 
 sive qualities are Stiff, Double Stiff, Best. 
 
 Gros Leno — a linen foundation for the 
 same purposes as the foregoing ; width -I, 
 length 20 yards. 
 
 There is also an imitation of this arti- 
 cle, though called by the same name; its 
 widths and lengths^ are more accommodating 
 than the French, being from J yard to and 
 in 12 as well as 20 yards. 
 
36 
 
 Raised Wood Moulds — are used for 
 covering, and being an ornament to dresses, 
 are known for size by the Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. 
 Bought by the gross. 
 
 Bone Moulds — for progressive size are 
 known by the Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 
 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. 
 
 Four Holes, alias Brace Buttons, alias 
 Dead Eyes, by Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Bought 
 by the gross. 
 
 Hooks and Eyes Common 
 
 Best 
 
 Black 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 White 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Plated 
 
 Best plated 
 
 Black 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 Yellow 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 Bronze 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 Bought by the gross. 
 
 
 
 White Yarn. 
 
 Black ditto. 
 
 All Colours ditto. 
 Ingrain ditto. 
 
 
37 
 
 White Lamb’swool Yarn. 
 
 Black ditto. 
 
 All Colours ditto. 
 
 Ingrain ditto. 
 
 White 4-threaded Worsted. 
 
 Black ditto. 
 
 All Colours. 
 
 Ingrain ditto. 
 
 All these are used for fancy and rugwork, 
 and bought and sold by the pound. 
 
 Carded Cotton— -Ditto Wool. — Used 
 instead of wadding, and for making mattresses 
 and pillows for coffins. 
 
 Knitting Worsteds — are in Jib. hanks 
 generally, and composed of four or more 
 skeins, and either of 3 or 4 threads. The 
 usual colours are white, black, grey, speckled. 
 The same colours are kept for repairing hose, 
 in balls of J, J, or loz. weight. 
 
 Remember, the more threads of worsted 
 there are, and the slacker (in reason) the 
 worsted is wound, the better it is considered ; 
 also, that it should be kept in a rather damp 
 place, for, by its being kept quite dry, it will 
 
 E 
 
38 
 
 decrease in weight as much in proportion as 
 fleece wool will, after the second year’s keep. 
 
 Buckrams — are A wide, are made of cot- 
 ton as well as linen ; when of cotton they are 
 generally in pieces of 28 yards, when of linen 
 25. They may be had in either sort, in white, 
 black, and yellow ; and it is presumed may 
 be had of any colour. 
 
 SEWING SILKS (as they are called). 
 
 Japan Legee, alias Common Black. 
 
 Raven Grey, alias Best Black — in small 
 fine skeins, and large coarse hanks. 
 
 Light Dyes, alias Coloured — of all co- 
 lours, in fine small skeins. 
 
 Cloth Sewings — coarse large skeins for 
 tailors’ use. 
 
 China, alias Fine White. 
 
 Stay, is in white, grey, sky, and nankeen ; 
 
39 
 
 and is a coarse heavy silk, used for stitching' of 
 women’s stays. 
 
 Twist, alias Mohair — in hanks and balls 
 of all cloth colours, for tailors’ use. 
 
 Floss Silk — in white, black, and all 
 colours, is quite slack in its make, and is 
 used for darning silk hose, &c. 
 
 Purse Twist — in all colours. 
 
 All bought by the lb. 
 
 RIBBONS. 
 
 The widths of ribbons, or it should have 
 been written the widths given to ribbons, are 
 by no means to be considered their respective 
 prices, or even approximating; but it has 
 been said the name originally given, and now 
 maintained, was the original price of the 
 now nominal widths. 
 
 This assertion has been admitted as plausi- 
 ble, by evidence of much respectability ; but, 
 by an authority from which no appeal can 
 be necessary, the writer has the privilege to 
 say, the width of ribbons was originally de- 
 E 2 
 
40 
 
 termined by the thickness of so many penny- 
 pieces ; 2d. width was the thickness of two 
 pennies, and 4d. the thickness of four, &c. 
 The widths, as they now are, are as follows : 
 Id. Id. 2d. 4d. 6d. 8d. lOd. 12d. 14d. 16d. 
 20d. 24d. 30d. 36d. and 40d. 
 
 The first five widths are always in whole 
 pieces, whereas the ten remaining are most 
 generally in half pieces (18 yards); but each 
 bought at per piece, which measures 36 yards. 
 
 The price per yard, at a given price 
 per piece, may be known by dividing the 
 same by 3, there being 3 dozen, or 36 yards 
 in the piece. 
 
 Ribbons, under their separate heads, may 
 now be considered. 
 
 Plain Saksnet — is a soft plain-edged silk 
 ribbon. 
 
 Figured Sarsnet — is called a Ley. 
 
 Plain Sarsnet — with a very small edge, 
 is called a Pearl Sarsnet. 
 
 Plain Sarsnet — with a larger edge, is 
 called a Fan Sarsnet. 
 
41 
 
 Luiestrings — called Lute, are nothing 
 more than a much better make of sarsnet 
 ribbon ; in ail widths under 6-penny they are 
 called extra, not lute; they are seldom figured, 
 and, when so, are most times embossed; there- 
 fore say. Plain Lutes, Fan Lutes, Pearl Lutes, 
 Figured Lutes. For Fan and Pearl, refer to 
 Sarsnets. 
 
 China Ribbons — are dead and common 
 looking satins ; they were formerly much used, 
 but now only by shoemakers, for rosettes to 
 boots and shoes. They should have been writ- 
 ten, with the exception of the narrowest width, 
 which is used for stringing beads, strings for 
 books, &c. Are to be had in white, black, and 
 all colours; they are too narrow to be kept on 
 blocks, as other ribbons, so they are kept wound 
 on flat boards. 
 
 Plain Satin. 
 
 Plain Satin — with a small edge, is called 
 a Spire Satin. 
 
 Fan Satin — is that which has a broad 
 edge. 
 
 E 3 
 
42 
 
 Satin Ribbons — may with propriety be 
 classed into four distinct kinds, viz. Common, 
 Extra, 5 leish, 8 leish. 
 
 Before advancing further, it will be as well 
 to introduce the terms Warp and Shute : the 
 warp is those threads which go lengthwise ; 
 the shute those which cross it. The word 
 leish is, it is believed, only applicable to silk 
 goods, and only used when speaking of rib- 
 bons ; it means the many, or few, very fine 
 threads of silk composing the shute. The 
 two first qualities of satin ribbons, viz. Com- 
 mon and Extra, are not by the retail trades- 
 man known by any other term, though they 
 may with propriety be called Best, agreeably 
 to the richness of their leishes. 
 
 The 5 and 8 leish, (the latter of which is 
 the richest goods made,) is called so, because 
 our language admits but of three gradations 
 of quality. 
 
 Fancy Ribbons — are widely different to 
 leys. The ley is of white, black, or any 
 colour ; the figure in it appears to be worked 
 in a loom, or by a needle. But, fancy, in 
 the sense here meant, is a satin, sarsnet, 
 or lutestring ribbon, of various colours, either 
 
43 
 
 in stripes or any pattern, of various colours, 
 which, from its variety, admits the term with- 
 out having an exclusive one. 
 
 Love Ribbon — - is a kind of gauze ribbon, 
 intersected with satin stripes, in v/hite, black, 
 and all colours. 
 
 Gauze Ribbons describe themselves. 
 
 Petershams, alias Watered Ribbons, 
 alias Pads, alias Watch Ribbons — are thick 
 double ribbons, generally watered, either 
 plain, figured, or striped. Their usual widths 
 are lOd. 12d. l4d. 16d.; and, contrary to 
 the rules of all other ribbons, may be had by 
 the quarter piece (9 yards), as well as by the 
 half or whole piece. Eighteen-pence extra 
 is charged per piece for the watering of rib- 
 bons of any width. 
 
 Galloons — are of the two-penny width of 
 ribbons ; are to be had in white, black, 
 colours of all kinds, and magpie. By mag- 
 pie, you are to understand that one half of the 
 galloon is white, and the other black. 
 
 Doubles — mean black double ribbons, 
 
44 
 
 used for shoe-strings, glass ribbons, &c.; are 
 sometimes watered, and for widths are called 
 4d. 6d. and 8d. 
 
 N. B. These, with the galloons, are always 
 bought by the gross, that is, four pieces; and, 
 for finding the price per yard, at a given sum 
 per piece, reference may be made to the sta- 
 tute galloon. 
 
 COTTON HANDKERCHIEFS. 
 
 These may be considered of nine or ten 
 kinds, viz. Prints, that is, pictured; Malabars, 
 Britan nias. Buffs and Lilacs, Shots, Sky Ban- 
 danas, Navy Blues, Red and Blacks, Mon- 
 teiths. Fancy. For sizes, I would observe, 
 all handkerchiefs are called by the parts of a 
 yard they measure, namely 
 
 Pdt’NTTs; ^ ^ 15 3 J^3 
 
 raiNis 8’ TS"’ ■J? ■8> T’ Te • 
 
 TVT A T A B A R S 9 ^ 1 
 
 iVlABABAilS yg-, -jg, -j, -jj, 
 
 Britannias — I f, 
 
 Buffs and Lilacs — f , -f. 
 
45 
 
 Spots A o, ^ 
 
 Ol'UiSs g, 
 
 Sky Bandanas— i, f , f, -f. 
 
 Navy Blues — f, 34 and 36 inch. 
 Red and Black — irregular sizes. 
 Monteiths. 
 
 Monteiths (Imitations) — each in A, 
 
 A A 3. R. 
 
 4 ’ 4 > 4 ? 4 * 
 
 Fancy — includes every description vary- 
 ing from the above, and of which no scale for 
 the retail can with safety be given ; but, alike 
 with the whole of handkerchiefs, are in pieces 
 of irregular numbers, and bought by the 
 dozen. 
 
 HOSIERY. 
 
 SOCKS. 
 
 Socks advance numerically, the size being 
 in proportion to the number of small spaces 
 left either in the foot of the sock, or directly 
 
46 
 
 under the ribbed top. The qualities are 
 termed Common, Super, Fine. The distinc- 
 tive kinds are 
 
 Children’s White Cotton. 
 
 Ditto ditto Worsted. 
 
 Ditto ditto Lambswool. 
 
 Ditto ditto Angola or Vigonia. 
 Ditto ditto Silk. 
 
 They are also to be had in all the variety 
 of size and colour, black included, of the 
 above materials. 
 
 Girls’ 
 
 (j 
 
 A 
 
 Maids’ 
 
 ce 
 
 C-S 
 
 >3^S. Women’s 
 
 (ft 
 
 Women’s 
 
 1 
 
 4^0. S. ditto 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 
 S. Men’s 
 
 
 Men’s 
 
 1 0? ° 
 S'g 
 
 0. S. ditto 
 
 £ s 
 
 Si o 
 
 
 
 = Cotton, Worsted, An- 
 gola, Lambswool. 
 
 N. B.=>^S. means Slen- 
 der. 
 
 "^0. S. means Out Size. 
 
 = Cotton, Worsted, An- 
 gola, Lambswool, 
 Silk. 
 
 Girls’ or maids’ hose, for sizes, assimilate 
 to the same scale as the socks, (the first 
 article under this head,) viz. from I to 7, and 
 from which springs S. Wo7nens ; therefore, as 
 a scale — 
 
47 
 
 Girls’ or 
 Maids’ 
 
 S. Women’s 
 Women’s 
 0. S. ditto 
 
 I ^’ = Cotton, Worsted, An- 
 ^ 3 gola, Lambswool, 
 
 I ° Silk. 
 
 J a 
 
 Boys’ and youths’ hose, for sizes, are governed 
 by the same rule as the girls’ or maids’ ; but, 
 as girls’ and women’s hose are of the sizes 
 necessary, there are no accredited sizes for 
 boys in either white cotton, &c., or black 
 worsted. Therefore 
 
 Boys’ or 
 Youths’ 
 
 S. Men’s 
 Men’s 
 O. S. ditto 
 
 y Plain and Ribbed. 
 
 1 Coloured Cotton, do. Worsted, 
 do. Angola, do. Lambswool, 
 J Yarn. 
 
 1 % Ribbed or Plain. 
 
 i = 
 
 j = Silk, Cotton, Worsted, 
 =*^3 Angola, Lambswool, 
 I o Yarn. 
 
 a N. B. Fishermen’s Hose. 
 
 Gauze Hose. 
 
 Girls’ >1 = White Cotton, Worsted, 
 
 Women’s y Lambswool, Angola, only 
 Men’s J white. 
 
 NB. This article is remarkably thin, and for 
 the purpose of wearing under silk hose. 
 
48 
 
 Worsted 
 
 Yarn 
 
 Lambswool 
 
 Cotton 
 
 Fleecy 
 
 Men’s Frocks. 
 
 Ditto S. Drawers, 
 Ditto L. Drawers. 
 Women’s Waistcoats. 
 Ditto Petticoats. 
 
 N.B. S. means short; L. long. 
 
 GLOVES. 
 
 Gloves need no remark, further than that 
 all leather is superior in proportion to its 
 elasticity, particularly kid. 
 
 PARASOLS. 
 
 Parasols may be called, for distinction, 
 children’s and women’s, being each made of 
 the same material. The children’s, for sizes, 
 are called from 2 feet to 3 feet‘; the 
 women’s, (including what is called the Um- 
 brella Parasol,) from 3 feet 6 to 4 feet 3. 
 
 Umbrellas — for sizes, are from 24 inches 
 to 33, and from 4 feet to 5 feet 6. 
 
49 
 
 STAYS. 
 
 Stays are called Coloured and White Girls', 
 Maids’, Women’s, and O. S. Women’s; and, 
 for a further distinction, by the name of the 
 material of which they are made. The Girls’ 
 and Maids’, for sizes, are from 17 inches to 
 21. The Women’s, from 21 inches to 30, 
 and the O. S. Women’s, from 30 inches to 40. 
 
 There is at this moment a stay called 
 French Stay, very much in demand, arising 
 from a peculiar mode of cutting. 
 
 SHAWLS AND FURS 
 
 Are selected from among the many articles 
 intentionally omitted, merely to say, they in- 
 volve so much anomaly in themselves, as to 
 prevent a definitive scale, or a description 
 for the retail ; and, although they certainly 
 form a prominent feature in the passing stock 
 of the season, yet they are but the butter- 
 flies of it. 
 
 F 
 
50 
 
 BOBBIN NETTS 
 
 Are called | yard,, &c. 
 
 QUILLING NETTS 
 
 Are called by the parts or quantity of inches 
 wide. 
 
 TATTINGS 
 
 Are small edging, about of an inch 
 wide, and are made of cotton as well as 
 thread. 
 
 GASSED LACE 
 Is made of cotton. 
 
 PILLOW EDGING LACE 
 Is of thread. 
 
 SILK NETT AND BLONDS 
 
 Are of silk. 
 
 3 
 
51 
 
 SILK MERCERY. 
 
 CRAPES. 
 
 Crape is a kind of tliin gauze crimped ; is 
 made of raw silk, and is gummed, to give it 
 that stiffness it possesses. For widths it is 
 known as 
 
 14 inch 
 16 do. 
 
 I yard 
 f do. 
 f do. 
 
 The two first are used for hatbands at 
 funerals, also for scarfs. 
 
 The third, for the general purpose of trim- 
 ming women’s dresses, &c. ; and the two fol- 
 lowing for veils. 
 
 The 14 and 16 inch are neither in white nor 
 colours ; but the other three widths may be 
 had in every colour, as well as white and 
 black. 
 
 There is a patent article of this kind made, 
 the crimping of which is so effected as to 
 prevent its being deteriorated by rain, or 
 
52 
 
 any other moisture, to which the ordinary is 
 liable. 
 
 These goods are all bought by the packet, 
 which, in the two narrowest widths, contain 
 4 pieces of 25 yards each ; but a packet of 
 the A, 1^, and |^, contains 4 pieces of 12J yards 
 each. 
 
 For finding the price per yard of the -J, 
 and 1^, at any given sum per packet, say, for 
 as many shillings as it costs per packet, as 
 manypewce, and take its fourth, which gives 
 it. This mode makes, on an average, about 
 one penny a yard difference to its real cost. 
 
 Examples. 
 
 A packet of ^ to cost 60s.; say 60d. are 
 5s., the fourth of which is 15d. — Proof: 50 
 yards at 15d. — 62s. 6d., which is not quite 
 ’s of a penny per yard more than it really 
 costs. 
 
 Again: A piece to cost 76s.; say 76d. 
 are 6s. 4d., the fourth of which is 19d. — 
 Proof : 50 yards at 19d. — 79s. 2d. ; about 
 jd. per yard higher than its real cost. 
 
 Again: Say 120s. per packet — 120d. are 
 10s., the fourth of which is 2s. 6d. — Proof: 
 50 yards at 2s. 6d. — 125s., or rather more 
 than 1-Jd. per yard above its actual cost. 
 
53 
 
 Once more : At 150s. — 150d. are 12s. 6d., 
 its fourth is 3s. IJd. — Proof: 50 yards at 
 3s. IJd. — 156s. 3d., or just IJd. per yard 
 more. 
 
 From these premises it may be concluded 
 therefore, that the price is come at, per yard, 
 in the speediest manner ; and that it is quite 
 close enough for either buying or selling. It, 
 however, should be granted, that by this 
 method it appears as though the packet con- 
 tains but 4 dozen, instead of 50 yards r and 
 this circumstance accounts, of course, for the 
 price produced being invariably a trifle higher 
 than it should be ; but dispatch being the 
 aim, the plan may be presumed to be admis- 
 sible. 
 
 Proof upon proof is preferable to no proof 
 at all. Therefore, for the sake of perspicuity, 
 take the first and last prices per packet before 
 quoted, viz. 60s. and 150s. and illustrate. 
 
 The first of these is made to appear at 15d. 
 
 The second - - - 3s. IJd. 
 
 Now, 15d. if multiplied by 50, must of 
 consequence make a larger amount for the 
 packet than if multiplied by 48. So also, 
 by the same argument, the price per yard 
 must of necessity be higher, if the value of 
 
 F 3 
 
54 
 
 the packet be divided by 48 instead of 50 ; 
 and although the plan adopted is for expe- 
 dition, and the price, per packet, divided by 
 48 in the stead of 50, it should be considered 
 imperative to account for the 2 yards. Per- 
 haps, in this way, it will not be objected to. 
 
 (1st.) 
 
 Packed to ) 15d. its fourth, 
 
 cost 60s. 5 
 
 Proof; If 1 yard : ]5d. :: 50 yards. 
 
 50 
 
 12) 750 
 
 Deduct the price ) f> 
 
 of 2 yds. at 15d. I 
 
 60s. 
 
 Packed to ^ 
 cost 150s. J 
 
 (2d.) 
 
 150(1. are 12s. 6d. 
 
 Proof: If I yard : 37 Jd. :: 
 
 50 
 
 [its fourth. 
 3s. IJd. 
 
 50 yards. 
 
 12) 1875 
 
 Deduct the price > 
 of 2 yds. at 3s. l^d. > 
 
 156 3 
 6 3 
 
 150s. 
 
55 
 
 As it regards the two narrow widths, viz, 
 14 and 16 inch, they maybe calculated in the 
 same way asj the foregoing f ; only 
 
 remembering to take the eighths instead of 
 fourths of the amount in pence, agreeing 
 with the quantity of shillings the packet costs, 
 as these narrows measure 100 yards, and not 
 50 yards. 
 
 With the above goods (inclusive), this de- 
 partment may be placed in twenty-one clas- 
 sifications, viz. 
 
 ^Persians 
 Sarsnets 
 Gros de Naples 
 Lutestrings 
 *Tobines 
 Florentines 
 ^Laventines 
 ^Paris Cords 
 Serges 
 Crapes 
 
 Barcelona’ Kerchiefs 
 
 Satins 
 ^Pealings 
 ^Norwich Crapes 
 Bombasins 
 ^Common Gauzes 
 Lisse do. 
 
 Crape Lisse do. 
 Gossamer 
 ^Italian Nett 
 Bandana Handker- 
 chiefs. 
 
 Persian — is a very thin silk, and plain, 
 about half-a -yard wide ; is used for the lining 
 of bonnets, pelisses, hoods, and collars of 
 
56 
 
 cloaks, caps, &c. It may be had in all 
 colours, and in various lengths, from 12 to 
 50 yards. 
 
 A Sarsnet— is a thicker kind, is made 
 twilled as well as plain, used for the same 
 purpose as the above, and sometimes for 
 dresses. Is made of all colours, and its 
 lengths are uncertain. 
 
 Gros de Naples — literally ‘‘ thick or stout 
 of Naples;'’ and by which we understand it to 
 be a silk of that description. The article we 
 know in trade by this name is a plain stout 
 silk ; it is the staple of silks ; but of which 
 there are, of course, many qualities. In all 
 colours ; lengths various, to 100 yards. 
 
 Lutestring — is so similar to the above, 
 that it is generally deemed a superlative 
 quality to the above, with which it agrees in 
 colours and lengths. 
 
 Armozeen — is a thick, plain, and jet black 
 silk, seldom or never seen in any colour, nor 
 yet in white, only in jet black. It is used for 
 hatbands and scarfs at funerals, by those not 
 
57 
 
 family mourners. Sometimes sold for making 
 clergymen’s gowns; lengths uncertain. 
 
 ^ToBiiirE — is a stout twilled silk, of any 
 colour, used for dresses, though it very much 
 resembles a Florentine. 
 
 Florentine — is made for waistcoats ; may 
 be had plain, striped, and figured ; when plain, 
 that is, without stripes or figures, it is twilled. 
 The twill in this, as well as the Tobine, does 
 not appear like the generality of such. The 
 ordinary twill may be compared to an unli- 
 mited diagonal stripe ; the one in question to 
 an horizontal zigzag. There are two other 
 kinds of goods called Florentines ; one made of 
 worsted, used for making common waistcoats, 
 women’s shoes, &c. &c., and another made of 
 cotton, and resembles a jean ; it is mostly 
 striped, and is used for making trowsers. 
 
 *Laventine — is a stout and very rich 
 faced twilled silk, quite soft; its face and 
 back vary in shade ; for instance, if the face 
 be of blue black, the black will be a jet, and 
 vice versa. We have never seen it in colours ; 
 
58 
 
 it is made for dresses, and its lengths are 
 uncertain. 
 
 ^Paris Cord — derives its name from 
 Paris, where it was first vended ; it is a thick 
 rich silk, having small fine ribs running from 
 selvage to selvage, about the fifteenth part of 
 an inch from each other. There are many 
 qualities among our manufacturers in imita- 
 tion of this article, the best of which are made, 
 like it, of all silky and is expensive ; but the 
 major part of them have the rib raised on a 
 fine cotton cord ; and if one of the selvages 
 be cut, the cord may be drawn out. It is of 
 various lengths, and is used principally for 
 making stocks. 
 
 Serge — is a stout twilled silk, and, though 
 stout, the twill in it is curiously fine ; it is 
 usually sold for lining the skirts, cuffs, and 
 padded parts of coats. Is to be had of any 
 cloth colour, and of various lengths. There 
 is a woollen article of the same name, and 
 which is given uader Flannels. 
 
 ^Norwich Crapes. — What gave rise to 
 
69 
 
 this article being called a crape one may be 
 at a loss to account for ; and certainly, cms- 
 tom only has obliged us tolerate the term. 
 This article is composed of worsted and silk, 
 and sometimes cotton has been introduced to 
 its fabric. The warp and shute generally 
 vary in colour, and always in shade. The 
 nominal width is J yard, but it seldom ex- 
 ceeds 1^, oftener under than over ; its length 
 60 yards. Is made in black, white, and all 
 colours. 
 
 Bombasin is composed of the same mate- 
 rials as the foregoing ; for widths, it is in- 
 tended for fyard, but seldom measures more 
 than half-a-yard, oftener under than over. 
 It is known from the Norwich Crape, first, 
 from its being narrower ; secondly, from its 
 being twilled : for lengths it is the same as 
 the Norwich Crape, viz. sixty yards. For 
 finding the price per yard, at any given sum 
 per piece, divide the price per piece by five, 
 which gives the price in shillings for one 
 dozen, consequently, as many pence per yard. 
 
 ^Common Gauze. — Gauze is too notorious 
 to need describing more than in their sorts. 
 
60 
 
 Therefore, common gauze is to be had 
 plain, striped, figured. The figure may be 
 formed with silk, or of magnesia; when it is 
 formed with this well-known drug, the figure 
 is traced on the gauze with a strong gum, and 
 the magnesia laid on wet ; when dry, it is per- 
 fectly firm. The length of this article varies 
 from 24 to 26 yards ; its width -I* 
 
 Lisse Gauze — is a plain gauze of a supe- 
 rior quality, of the same widths as the above. 
 Is to be had of all colours, and its lengths 
 are from 14 to 20 yards. 
 
 Crape Lisse — as we call it, is derived from 
 the French of Crepe de Lisse; is similar to the 
 above, with the addition of its being crimped 
 or craped. 
 
 ^Gossamer — is a rich gauze, nearly as 
 open in its make as a common gauze ; but at 
 least four times as thick and strong. It is 
 used for veils, and is in ^ and -J widths ; 
 lengths, from 12 to 18 yards. 
 
 ^Italian Netts — are about half-a-yard 
 wide; are much more open than a common 
 
61 
 
 gauze, though materially stronger ; composed 
 of silk and worsted, and is used for dresses. 
 May be had in any colour ; lengths uncertain, 
 
 Satins — are goods with but one face, com- 
 paratively stiff, used occasionally for dresses 
 and cloaks, but more generally for trim- 
 mings ; are half-a-yard wide. To be had in 
 all colors, and in almost every length. 
 
 *Pealings — is an obsolete make, greatly 
 inferior to the very lowest satin ; was origi- 
 nally called satin pealings^ with a claim to 
 that name in the same ratio as a Persian has 
 to be called a silk. 
 
 Barcelona ’Kerchiefs — may be classed 
 into four parties, viz. 
 
 Black 
 
 Plain Colours 
 
 Fancy 
 
 Turban Checks. 
 
 Black being had more for utility than ap- 
 pearance, may perhaps be the reason for 
 more attention having been paid to their 
 sizes ; by the number of inches they measure 
 from fringe to fringe inclusive, are they 
 
 G 
 
62 
 
 known, and the price regulated by the num- 
 ber of such to a certain standard of quality. 
 The sizes are as follows, and supposed to be 
 square : 
 
 Inches-~26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 
 
 5 6 7 
 
 ana 
 
 Plain Colours — are those of any colour 
 having neither figure nor stripe. 
 
 Fancy — embraces the whole of those which 
 are striped or figured in any shape, excepting 
 the following : 
 
 Turban Checks — ^ which are generally 
 about 20 inches square, and have large checks. 
 They were originally used for head-dresses 
 exclusively, and from which they derived their 
 name. 
 
 The term ‘‘Barcelona” is derived from Bar- 
 celona, in Spain, from whence the originals 
 were imported. 
 
 Bandana Handkerchiefs —are, ’when 
 in colours, those India goods now in common 
 use ; they are in pieces containing seven. 
 
63 
 
 Black Bandanas — are made in England, 
 though a few are brought from India. For 
 sizes, they are known as follows : 
 
 Inches 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 
 
 4 > 4 5 4 * 
 
 English Coloured Goods — are made in 
 imitation of India goods, and are called 
 Bandanas. 
 
64 
 
 MUSLINS. 
 
 Muslins, considered in their separate divi- 
 sions, amount to twenty-three, viz. 
 
 Book, 
 
 Lawn ditto, 
 
 Jaconot, 
 
 Nainsook, 
 
 Mull, 
 
 Zacarilla, 
 
 Decca, 
 
 Leno, 
 
 Tambour Book, 
 Ditto Leno, 
 Ditto Mull, 
 Ditto Jaconot, 
 
 Japan Book, 
 
 Ditto Jaconot, 
 
 Fancy Stripes, 
 Cambrics, 
 
 Black ditto. 
 
 Checked ditto. 
 Striped ditto, 
 
 Book Handkerchiefs, 
 Balasore ditto, 
 Window Muslins, 
 Ditto Lenos. 
 
 Book, alias Clear, alias Plain Clear 
 Muslin — is made in three distinct kinds, 
 viz. hard, soft, and lawn book. The hard is 
 so called, from its being stiffened or dressed ; 
 the soft, from its being perfectly undressed ; 
 and, for a further distinction, it is called the 
 
65 
 
 imitation of India. The lawn^book is made 
 to imitate the French clear lawn ; it is less 
 clear than the hard hook, and much stifFer ; 
 it'is also called widows’ lawn, mourning mus- 
 lin, and is used for widows’ caps, cuffs, col- 
 lars, and frills. 
 
 There are many makers now of equal noto- 
 riety with the OLD standard for the make 
 of this particular article, but they all agree in 
 their widths, viz. f, f, f, O , 
 
 The first three widths are very little in de- 
 mand in any English retail trade, and it 
 w^ould be impolitic in a retail man to keep 
 both the latter ; but, as they so approximate 
 in width, it can be ventured on to assert that 
 seven out of ten buy the y , and usually rea- 
 lize the profit on the f . 
 
 It must be remembered that the marked 
 width of muslins must not guide a person 
 in asserting their real admeasurement, for a 
 A will barely measure -g-, a scarcely a |- 
 about 1-J^, an u just 1|, a -J generally 1-| of 
 a yard, but each more usually under than 
 over. 
 
 An extensive intercourse with general goods 
 only will afford that satisfaction a frank en- 
 quiring mind seeks for ; for while it may be 
 
 g2 
 
66 
 
 admitted, in some measure, that the censure 
 of some people is just, arising from the mis- 
 calling by a draper of his goods, he must 
 be exonerated from its being grounded in 
 actual fact. In the list of ribbons, it has 
 been said that their nominal widths were by 
 no means to be considered their actual or 
 present admeasurement, but that the present 
 distinctions were their original widths. The 
 same is the fact with muslins and most other 
 goods : the scale of sizes and widths are the 
 same as ever ; but from year to year such com- 
 petition between manufacturers has existed, 
 aided by other circumstances besides that of 
 the times, that the goods have been almost 
 imperceptibly clipped, piece by piece, till 
 they are as they now stand. Who, therefore, 
 in the retail, can possibly help that ? If a 
 draper were not to call his goods the same as 
 the wholesale houses, how, in the name of com- 
 mon sense, is he to order them ? 
 
 Jaconot — is a soft muslin, and is the 
 thickest kind of soft muslins made ; its 
 widths are the same as the books, but is made- 
 in 20-yard lengths, as well as 12 to the piece. 
 They were originally made only in 20 yards. 
 
and the 12-yard lengths are of recent intro- 
 duction, (say 14 years;) they are generally of 
 a lighter and prettier make than the former. 
 Are used for neckcloths, dresses, &c. 
 
 Nainsook — is a thinner make of Jaconot ; 
 of the same widths as the foregoing, and made 
 only in 12-yard lengths. Used for dresses. 
 
 Mull — is a thinner kind still, and cu- 
 riously soft; is of the same widths as the 
 above ; used sometimes for dresses, but 
 mostly for trimmings, &c. Is in pieces of 
 12-yard lengths. This, with the Jaconot and 
 Nainsook, are by each maker known, for 
 their qualities, either by numbers or an alpha- 
 betical distinction ; but, as neither of these 
 are in such demand or general consumption 
 as the book- muslin, the retail man does not 
 pay so much attention to their numbers or 
 distinctions, or is he so prejudiced in favor of 
 one make above another, as in the books ; 
 therefore, with all but the books, he orders at 
 the prices he may want, and not by the num- 
 bers the muslins bear. Another reason may 
 be assigned: to books there is a regular list of 
 
6S 
 
 their numbers, with the prices attached, gene- 
 rally once a month, and sometimes oftener; 
 but a similar method with any other muslins 
 is rarely, if ever, within the reach of the 
 retail man. 
 
 Zacarilla — is by far thinner even than 
 the mull, and when used, is for the purpose 
 of dresses. It is an article very little in de- 
 mand in the country trade, and therefore not 
 generally kept. The writer never saw but 
 two widths, viz. 
 
 Decca — may be considered the unique of 
 all muslins, and only by report is it known^ 
 there never having been but one piece in 
 England, and which was brought from 
 India as a present to the late Dowager 
 Queen, shortly after the birth of George the 
 Fourth. It was said that the postscript of the 
 Times might have been read through ten of 
 its folds. It is easy to conceive its being 
 exquisitely fine, or it would not have been 
 deemed worthy the acceptance of her Majesty; 
 but as to so small a type being even discerni- 
 ble through ten of its folds, is certainly in 
 
69 
 
 the 91st degree of the writer s credibility ; and 
 he has only to add, it has never been imitated 
 by our manufacturers ; but each of the others 
 before named, and which follow this, are imi- 
 tations of India goods. 
 
 Leno — is made of the same material as 
 muslin, is much clearer than a book-muslin, 
 and may with some propriety be called a cot- 
 ton gauze. It may be had in the same widths 
 as muslins, but is not now in much demand ; 
 it is in pieces of 10 yards. 
 
 Tambotjr Book, Uo. Jaconot, Do. Leno, 
 Do. Mull. — ^The writer has never seen either 
 of these in any other width than or ; they 
 are in pieces of 5-yard lengths. This kind of 
 work (tambour,) resembles the needlework of 
 the same name. 
 
 Japan Books, Do. Jaconot, — are often 
 called loom books or jaconot ; that is, they are 
 worked in a loom, which produces a very in- 
 distinct figure, not sufficiently finished to pre- 
 vent its ravelling out by washing. Are usii- 
 
70 
 
 ally in ^ and widths, and each piece con- 
 tains 10 yards. 
 
 Lenos Mulls — are seldom, if ever, seen 
 japanned. 
 
 Fancy Stripes — are only of mull or jaco- 
 nots ; are used for dresses, but now not much 
 in demand. The stripes generally run warp- 
 wise, and are of various widths, from the 
 eighth of an inch to two inches, and the pieces 
 contain 10 yards. 
 
 Cambric Muslins — are called cambric 
 demies, from their being made in 24-yard 
 lengths, but sent out in 12’s ; their widths 
 are the same as the books, &c. This arti- 
 cle is in some places called long cloth, but 
 it is improper. There is a figured cambric 
 also, generally of a very small pattern, used 
 for infants’ bonnets, long morning gowns, or 
 frocks ; that is, the cambric is highly calen- 
 dered on one side, and sometimes on both ; 
 it is used for the lining of common hats, 
 making of children’s bonnets, &c. Cam- 
 brics may also be had in twills, coloured as 
 well as white. 
 
71 
 
 Black Cambrics — may also be had in 
 plain and twills ; are of the same widths as the 
 white, but are made and sent out in 24-yard 
 lengths. 
 
 Hair-Cord Stripes — are those cambrics 
 which have very small stripes, or cords, run- 
 ning warpwise. Their widths are the same as 
 the before-mentioned, and are in 12-yard 
 pieces. 
 
 Hair-Cord and Fancy Checks — are 
 those cambrics which are checked, and are of 
 various qualities of the same patterns, which 
 patterns are understood thus : 
 
 Hair-Cord Checks. 
 
 Duetto do. 
 
 Trio dOi 
 
 Quartetto do. 
 
 Fancy do. 
 
 Hair-cord checks are those wFose checks 
 are formed by small single stripes or cords, 
 varying from the sixteenth of an inch space to 
 half an inch. 
 
 Duetto — those whose checks are formed 
 by two such cords or stripes, varying from 
 
72 
 
 the eighth of an inch space to three quarters 
 of an inch. 
 
 Trio — those whose checks are formed by 
 three such stripes or cords, varying in space 
 from one-quarter of an inch to an inch. 
 
 Quartetto — those whose checks are pro- 
 duced by four such cords or stripes, and are 
 of various spaces. 
 
 Fancy — are those whose patterns do not 
 come under any given order, whose spaces 
 are irregular, and the width of the stripes 
 indefinite. Each and all of these are of the 
 usual widths and lengths of cambrics in 
 general. 
 
 Book, alias Clear Muslin ’Kerchiefs — 
 are squares of book-muslins bordered, used 
 by women for their necks ; are for sizes called 
 1 f for qualities, known by numbers, 
 same as book-muslins, and have 12 ’kerchiefs 
 in each piece. 
 
 Balasore, alias Jaconot ’Kerchiefs — 
 are made for the same purpose as the fore- 
 
73 
 
 going’, and of the same sizes, but in very little 
 demand. 
 
 Muslin Trimmings — are called flounc- 
 ing’s, insertions, and scollops, veined, or not 
 veined : vein is applied to the little open-work 
 on each side of the insertion, or at the top 
 only of a scollop, so called. These goods 
 are in pieces of from 24 to 36 yards. 
 
 As a list of Childbed Linen is attached, 
 it will be only necessary to say, by way of 
 remembrance : 
 
 Children’s 
 
 Frock Bodies, 
 
 Do. 
 
 Short Frocks, 
 
 Do. 
 
 Long Robes, 
 
 Do. 
 
 Scotch and French Cambric Caps, 
 
 Do. 
 
 Lace Caps. 
 
 Cap Crowns, Collars, Habit-shirts, Canzous, 
 &c. in nett and muslin, either tamboured, 
 or sewed work. 
 
 Feathers and Flowers — viz. English 
 and French ; cap, wreath, and bonnet. 
 
 H 
 
74 
 
 CALICOS, 
 
 For distinction, may be called 
 
 buper, 
 
 Wigan, 
 
 Duck^ 
 
 Double Warp, 
 Steam Loom, 
 Double Warp do. 
 Sheetings, 
 
 Shirting, alias Ameri- 
 can Cloth, 
 
 Patent Twist, 
 
 Power- Loom Shirtings, 
 Long Cloths, 
 
 Fents, 
 
 Striped Cottons, 
 
 Coloured or Dyed Calico. 
 
 Their respective widths are known as -I, 
 f , f ; also by the inches they measure 
 
 wide, viz. 28, 30, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 
 40, 42. This, however, is only applied to 
 stout goods, and most generally kept to the 
 shirtings. Super signifies fine : in the ^ the 
 piece is 28 yards; in it measures 24 yards. 
 
 Wigan — signifies stout, and is generally 
 applied to the pieces regularly made in 28 
 yards. 
 
 Duck — is simplya better made stout calico. 
 
75 
 
 whose width is called by the number of inches, 
 vide p. 74, and its length indefinite, generally 
 between 40 and 60 yards. 
 
 Double Warp — signifies an increased 
 substance. 
 
 Steam and Power-Loom — is merely the 
 mechanical medium by which the goods are 
 manufactured. 
 
 Shirting — is a more than ordinary even- 
 made article, intended to imitate Irish linens. 
 It is, as all other goods are, of the same ma- 
 terial, to be had dressed or undressed ; lengths 
 indefinite. 
 
 Patent Twist — is the same kind of article; 
 and receiving its peculiar name from the warp 
 and shute being twisted more regularly and 
 round than the foregoing. 
 
 Fents — are pieces of calico from half-a- 
 yard to two yards long, sewed together, in 
 either | or ^ widths ; lengths indefinite. 
 Bought by the dozen. 
 
 H 2 . 
 
76 
 
 Sheeting Calico — is the stout article 
 used as a substitute for linen. No width is 
 properly called so under 36 inches. 
 
 Coloured Calico — is generally in 
 widths, and is used for boys’ round frocks, 
 petticoats, &c. 
 
 Striped Cottons. — This article, though 
 made of various numbers, and consequently 
 made by as many manufacturers, has been, 
 like book-muslins, for many years, known by 
 one particular standard ; however, this, like 
 many other ancient customs, has, with the 
 exception of a few cases, been exploded by 
 the hand of equality. Although the numbers 
 for quality may not be relied on, the widths 
 may ; therefore, say y , Its lengths are 
 indefinite, varying from 40 to 60 yards ; the 
 patterns are decided by the space in the parts 
 of an inch; and when two broad stripes are 
 intersected with a light one, the pattern is 
 called broken, 
 
PRINTS. 
 
 Prints are, for widths, called as follows ; 
 
 Prints, 
 
 I Do. 
 
 ^ Do. Coloured Muslins, 
 
 ^ Do. Do. 
 
 which, for distinction, may be called Plates, 
 Bengal Stripes, Chintz., Fancy. Neither of 
 these, perhaps, call for an explanation, ex- 
 cept the Plates. Plate is a print having but 
 one colour, i, e. the object printed is of but one 
 colour ; such, for example, as blue, pink, 
 lilac, or drab. 
 
 Dimity — for lengths, vary very' little from 
 60 yards; the widths are determined by 
 inches. Patterns undetermined, excepting 
 the hair-cord, and which is derived from the 
 stripe, being of a narrow width, resembling a 
 small cord or hair. 
 
 India Nankecns — it is presumed, need no 
 
78 
 
 comment, save that they measure respectively 
 5, 6 j, and 1-^ yards each. 
 
 British Goods of the same name are made 
 generally of uncertain lengths. 
 
 Jeans, Coloured, 
 
 Do. White, 
 
 Do. Satteen, 
 
 Velveteen, 
 
 Corduroys, 
 
 Pillow Fustians, 
 
 Barragon Do. 
 
 Beverteen Do. 
 
 White Counterpanes, 
 
 Coloured Do. 
 
 Do. Rugs, 
 
 White Marseilles Quilts, 
 Ticks, 
 
 Do. Union, 
 
 Checks,' 
 
 Do. Union, 
 
 Huckaback, 
 
 Coloured Lining. 
 
 Any remark on these is deemed unneces- 
 sary, as they only require to be once seen to 
 be remembered, in most, if not in every par- 
 ticular. 
 
79 
 
 Scotch Cambric — is made of cotton, to 
 imitate French; is in pieces 7J yards long. 
 
 Scotch Cambric Handkerchiefs — in 
 dozens, to imitate French, are known by the 
 consecutive numbers from 1 to 11. There 
 are others, but they may be deemed irregular, 
 though in pretty regular numbers up to 12 or 
 14. The most applicable name would be 
 Fancy, for the numbers and names depend 
 on the quality of work at the corners gene- 
 rally. 
 
 The word union, when applied to goods, 
 means that they are composed of cotton and 
 linen. 
 
FLANNELS 
 
 Are called 
 
 Welsh, 
 
 Lancashire, 
 
 Baize, 
 
 Bath Coating, 
 
 Swanskin, 
 
 Lindsey, 
 
 Double Plaised Do. Serge, 
 Domett, Raised 
 
 Raised Do. 
 
 Gauze Flannel, Rogers’ Patent Do. 
 
 The Welsh, historically, may be said to 
 have been the first makers of flannels, and 
 from whom their goods are so called. 
 They are for widths known as ^ and A. it 
 must not be supposed that every flannel is 
 Welsh that has a broad, or two broad sel- 
 vages, or from the color of the piece being of 
 a bluish cast; this plan might have been 
 justifiable some years ago, but not now ; for 
 the Lancasterians, the old rivals of the Welsh, 
 make goods, and strictly adhere to the parti- 
 culars above alluded to, and find a ready 
 sale for them as Welsh, many purchasers not 
 knowing otherwise ; therefore, the principal 
 
81 
 
 and almost unerring guide, till one is grown 
 familiar with appearances, must be in connex- 
 tion with the above two features, its smell, 
 and of the nasal organs, 
 
 “Not too thick. 
 
 Nor cramm’d with rich cephalic.” 
 
 It will be found of a very raw smell, similar 
 to a piece of Southdown or Merino wool, and 
 as a matter of course feeling of an oily na- 
 ture ; this arises from the oil contained in the 
 wool not being extracted, by which it is 
 rendered more beneficial to rheumatic and 
 elderly subjects to wear next their skin. The 
 lengths are uncertain, particularly if bought 
 of a London house, from which almost any 
 length may be had, not less than 10 yards ; 
 but, if bought of the Welshmen, who travel 
 with the produce of their own looms, they 
 are bought by the score yards (q/*21 to the 
 score.) 
 
 Rogers’ Patent — is a Welsh flannel, for 
 length quite uncertain ; and it is, we be- 
 lieve, only made in four quarters. It is 
 made particularly fine ; in short, for a flannel, 
 it IS curiously so ; but its superiority over 
 
82 
 
 others, and for which its maker obtained the 
 patent, is from its not being liable to shrink 
 in washing : it is a comfortable flannel, but 
 by no means an economical one. 
 
 Gauze Flannel — is a very thin porous 
 article, and thereby called a gauze flannel ; 
 it is used for the same purpose as the fore- 
 going, but only worn by those who cannot 
 wear a closer texture. 
 
 Lancashire Flannel — the texture of 
 which need not be explained ; but, having 
 before said the Lancasterians were originally 
 the imitators of Welsh goods, it has only to 
 be added, that they have a full claim to issue 
 goods bearing their own signatures ; for the 
 manufacturing of which they have received, 
 and highly merit, the good feelings of their 
 own and most nations. The professed widths 
 of their goods are ^ and A; but, from the 
 causes already alluded to in page 39, have 
 not less than 8 differing widths to bear the 
 distinctions of these two originals. 
 
 Baize — is a coarse kind of flannel, distin- 
 guishable from others by having what is 
 
83 
 
 called di face and back; that is, one side ap- 
 pears threadbare, and the other (the face) 
 resembles a white sheet of wool ; it has gene- 
 rally an unfinished blue, pink, or scarlet sel- 
 vage, on each side. The widths of this ar- 
 ticle are nominally, as well as actually, the 
 same as Lancashire flannels, so also are its 
 lengths. 
 
 Domett — is a^ kind of flannel made of 
 cotton and wool ; the warp cotton, the shute 
 luool. In consequence of this mixture, it is 
 much thinner than a proper flannel ; it is used 
 chiefly by the poorer classes, also for shrouds, 
 the lining of coffins, &c.; is of the same widths 
 and lengths per piece as Lancashire flannels, 
 viz. 46 yards. 
 
 For the more expeditious method of finding 
 the price per yard, at a given sum per piece, 
 the old plan is recommended. 
 
 Suppose a piece to cost 60s.; divide it by 4, 
 the quotient will be 15, to which add 1, 
 making thereby 16 : well then, it may be said, 
 the flannel was 16d. a yard. Proof : 46 yds. 
 at 16d. =61s. 4d. 
 
 x4.gain : say a piece cost 40s.; well then, 
 4’s in 40 = 10 times, adding 1 makes 11, 
 
u 
 
 eonsequentlv, lid. a yard. Proof; 46 yds. at 
 lid. = 42s* 2d. 
 
 Again : say a piece costs 80s. ; well then, 4’s 
 in 80 = 20 times: adding 1 makes 21 ; well 
 then, 2 Id. a yard. Proof: 46 yards at 2 Id. 
 == 80s. 6d. 
 
 Once more : say a piece costs 88s. ; well 
 then, 4’s in 88 = 22 ; adding 1 makes 23. 
 Proof: 46 yds. at 23d. = 88s. 3d. 
 
 This mode is sufficiently exact for any 
 thing, and the way it is done must be plainly 
 seen. The piece is reckoned as 48 yards 
 (4 dozens,) now dividing the price by that 
 quantity instead of 46, of course reduces the 
 price per yard a little. Therefore, after hav- 
 ing divided the price per piece by 4, which 
 is shillings for one dozen, and, consequently, 
 as many pence per yard, one penny is added 
 to the price per yard in the general way, as 
 an equivalent for the two yards: and, as a 
 further proof of its correctness, as well as 
 for a reference, a list is carried out of the 
 amount of each piece, from 3d. a yard, ad- 
 vancing one halfpenny per yard, to 2s. and 
 from that exclusive to 3s. at an advance of 
 one penny per yard. 
 
85 
 
 d. 
 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 d. 
 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 3 yd. 
 
 11 
 
 6 piece. 
 
 17 yd. 
 
 65 
 
 2 piece 
 
 n 
 
 }i 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 )> 
 
 1 7 > 
 
 ff 
 
 67 
 
 [ 
 
 ff 
 
 A 
 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 >> 
 
 18 
 
 ff 
 
 69 
 
 0 
 
 ff 
 
 4J 
 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 j) 
 
 
 ff 
 
 70 
 
 11 
 
 if 
 
 5 
 
 >) 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 If 
 
 19 
 
 ff 
 
 72 
 
 10 
 
 ff 
 
 
 ?» 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 ff 
 
 
 ff 
 
 74 
 
 9 
 
 ff 
 
 6 
 
 >> 
 
 23 
 
 0 
 
 )f 
 
 20 
 
 ff 
 
 76 
 
 8 
 
 ff 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 11 
 
 )f 
 
 201 
 
 ff 
 
 78 
 
 7 
 
 ff 
 
 7 
 
 ?> 
 
 26 
 
 10 
 
 ff 
 
 21 
 
 ff 
 
 80 
 
 6 
 
 ft 
 
 
 >) 
 
 28 
 
 9 
 
 if 
 
 2H 
 
 ff 
 
 82 
 
 5 
 
 ff 
 
 8 
 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 ff 
 
 22 
 
 ff 
 
 84 
 
 4 
 
 ff 
 
 
 j’ 
 
 32 
 
 7 
 
 ff 
 
 22i 
 
 ff 
 
 86 
 
 3 
 
 ff 
 
 9 
 
 >» 
 
 34 
 
 6 
 
 ff 
 
 23““ 
 
 ff 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 if 
 
 
 >> 
 
 36 
 
 5 
 
 ff 
 
 231 
 
 ft 
 
 90 
 
 1 
 
 ff 
 
 10 
 
 
 38 
 
 4 
 
 ff 
 
 25. hd. 
 
 ff 
 
 92 
 
 0 
 
 ff 
 
 loj 
 
 
 40 
 
 3 
 
 ff 
 
 2 1 
 
 ff 
 
 95 
 
 10 
 
 ff 
 
 11 
 
 
 42 
 
 2 
 
 f’ 
 
 2 2 
 
 ff 
 
 99 
 
 8 
 
 ff 
 
 
 >> 
 
 44 
 
 1 
 
 ff 
 
 2 3 
 
 ff 
 
 103 
 
 6 
 
 ff 
 
 12 
 
 
 46 
 
 0 
 
 ff 
 
 2 4 
 
 ff 
 
 107 
 
 4 
 
 ft 
 
 12i 
 
 
 47 
 
 11 
 
 ff 
 
 2 5 
 
 ff 
 
 111 
 
 2 
 
 ft 
 
 13 
 
 >> 
 
 49 
 
 10 
 
 ff 
 
 2 6 
 
 ff 
 
 115 
 
 0 
 
 ff 
 
 13f 
 
 j’ 
 
 51 
 
 9 
 
 ff 
 
 2 7 
 
 ff 
 
 118 
 
 10 
 
 ft 
 
 14 
 
 >> 
 
 53 
 
 8 
 
 ff 
 
 2 8 
 
 ff 
 
 122 
 
 8 
 
 ft 
 
 14| 
 
 » 
 
 55 
 
 7 
 
 ff 
 
 2 9 
 
 ff 
 
 126 
 
 6 
 
 ff 
 
 15 
 
 )) 
 
 57 
 
 6 
 
 ff 
 
 2 10 
 
 ff 
 
 130 
 
 4 
 
 ft 
 
 151 
 
 iy 
 
 59 
 
 5 
 
 ff 
 
 2 11 
 
 ff 
 
 134 
 
 2 
 
 ft 
 
 16 
 
 j> 
 
 61 
 
 4 
 
 ff 
 
 3 0 
 
 ff 
 
 ]38 
 
 0 
 
 ff 
 
 m 
 
 ?> 
 
 63 
 
 3 
 
 ff 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 T 
 
86 
 
 Double Raised Baize — is of the same 
 kind as the baize before named, but never 
 made in such low qualities, and receives the 
 term double, from each of its sides being' the 
 same as the description given to the face of 
 the single baize. This article measures 44 
 yards in the piece, and not 46, as flannels, 
 but its widths are in common with them. 
 
 The same rule for finding the' price per 
 yard, at a given sum per piece, may be 
 adopted for this, as well as the flannels, only 
 remembering to add to the quotient 2 instead 
 of 1, as in flannels. For proofs, a list is 
 added, carried out in prices, advancing Id. 
 per yard, from 6d. to 3s. 
 
 1 
 
d. 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 2 0 
 
 2 1 
 
 2 2 
 
 2 3 
 
 2 4 
 
 2 5 
 
 2 6 
 
 2 7 
 
 2 8 
 
 2 9 
 
 2 10 
 
 2 11 
 
 3 0 
 
 87 
 
 a yard, 
 
 j j 
 j? 
 >> 
 
 >> 
 
 >> 
 
 j) 
 
 j? 
 
 jj 
 
 >> 
 
 ?> 
 
 )> 
 
 ) j 
 
 j? 
 
 j) 
 
 5 f 
 J> 
 J) 
 »> 
 
 >) 
 
 >» 
 
 7» 
 
 5. d. 
 
 is 22 0 
 
 25 8 
 29 4 
 
 33 0 
 
 36 8 
 40 4 
 44 0 
 47 8 
 
 51 4 
 
 55 0 
 58 8 
 62 4 
 
 66 0 
 69 8 
 73 4 
 77 0 
 
 80 8 
 84 4 
 
 88 0 
 91 8 
 
 95 4 
 99 0 
 102 8 
 106 4 
 110 0 
 113 8 
 
 117 4 
 
 121 0 
 124 8 
 
 128 4 
 
 132 0 
 
 per piece. 
 
 jj 
 
 j) 
 
 >? 
 
 >> 
 
 5> 
 
 )» 
 
 J? 
 
 )> 
 
 >» 
 
 >> 
 
 J J 
 
 5» 
 
 J > 
 
 J» 
 
 yj 
 
 )» 
 
 J) 
 
 J ) 
 
 5> 
 
 )> 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 
88 
 
 Bath Coating (White) — is a thick kind 
 of double raised baize, in A, widths, 
 
 used for women’s petticoats, and which is a 
 winter article ; it is also to be had in nearly 
 all colors, and when so, it is for making 
 cloaks ; it is also knapped, that is, the face of 
 it, instead of being smooth, presents little 
 knobs: and when so, it is not called Ijath 
 coating, but knapped coating, and the one 
 next before this in colored, plain coating. 
 Their lengths are uncertain. 
 
 Swanskin, alias Ironing Cloth — is be- 
 lieved to be only made in | and -g-. It is a 
 tight and closely-woven article, rather of a 
 yellowish cast generally, and is used by the 
 poorer classes as a substitute for under blan- 
 keting ; by sailors, for drawers and under- 
 waistcoats ; by farmers’ laborers, for the same 
 purposes, and for stroggs, alias short gaiters; 
 also for jackets; it is also used by laundresses 
 for a cover to their tables, and therefore 
 called an ironing cloth. Lengths are un- 
 certain. - 
 
 Linsey, or LinseyWoolsey. — This article 
 jis in white, blue, blue and white mixed, blue 
 
89 
 
 and red mixed, and striped, of various colours. 
 It is seldom seen in any other width than A, 
 and is made of thread and v/ool ; the thread is 
 its warp, the wool its shute ; the white is 
 used for women’s petticoats, the colored for 
 aprons. The lengths are uncertain. 
 
 Serge — is of three kinds, viz. Serge 
 Simple, Ditto Raised, Ditto Stoved. Each- of 
 these may be had in colors as well as white. 
 
 Serge, simple — is a twilled article, in 
 widths I, -J, The white is used for men’s 
 drawers, but principally, both in white and 
 colors, by saddlers and coachmakers, in their 
 respective trades ; though a very considerable 
 quantity is used for lining naval, military, 
 and other cloaks : the blue is more particularly 
 usedby green-grocers and butchers, for aprons, 
 &c. ; the green for covering writing-tables, 
 desks, &c. in public offices, and for portable 
 desks, &c. 
 
 Raised Serge — is a superior quality, and 
 is called raised, from one of its sides resem- 
 bling the face of a baize, that is, woolly. 
 
 I 3 
 
90 
 
 Stove Serges — are those of the two fore- 
 going kinds, but which are made more white 
 by being dried in, or by stoves, aided by a 
 chemical bleaching power not usually applied 
 to the general article. 
 
 All serges measuring 24 yards long, in 
 order to find the price per single yard, take 
 the half price of the piece ; the same being the 
 price in shillings for one dozen, is the same 
 number of pence for one yard. 
 
 BLANKETS 
 Describe themselves. 
 
91 
 
 WOOLLEN CLOTHS 
 Are called 
 
 Broad Cloths, supposed width -J. 
 
 Narrow Ditio, 
 
 ditto. 
 
 I or h 
 
 Kerseymere, 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto. 
 
 Single Ditto, 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto. 
 
 Double Milled, 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto. 
 
 Pelisse Cloths, 
 
 ditto 
 
 7 
 
 4 • 
 
 Habit, 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto. 
 
 The lengths of all these are uncertain, and, 
 when bought, the length is called an end. 
 
 Stuffs and Shalloons — are in 28 yard 
 pieces. 
 
 Plaids — in the same ; also of uncertain 
 lengths. 
 
 Woollen Cords — widths lengths un- 
 
 certain. 
 
 Hats.— A ll that nig^d be said on them is, 
 that in beaver and stuff hats the qualities are 
 
92 
 
 decided, 1st, by the partial or total absence 
 of white hairs in the knap ; 2dly, by its light- 
 ness, and lastly by the interior finish. 
 
 Caps — in their sorts, are called 
 
 Boys, Cloth Men’s Travelling Caps, 
 Leather, Cloth, 
 
 Fur, Seal, 
 
 Oil-skin, Fur, 
 
 The sizes of these, as well as the hats, are 
 determined by squaring the oval, thus 
 
 A 
 
 The number of inches from A to B, and 
 from C to D, are added together, the half of 
 which is the size of the hat or cap. 
 
92 
 
 'IRISH LINENS. 
 
 The rating of Irish linens is far more easy 
 than many suppose, and errors as frequently 
 arise from complexed methods as from care- 
 lessness, or a total want of judgment on 
 quality. Glasses are bad mediums, unless 
 purchasers are in the habit of buying by the 
 same, and which, I presume, is not often the 
 case, if ever. A round of cloths had better 
 be pronounced dear at once, if the advancing 
 numbers be not perceptibly finer, than for a 
 rating to be cramped. 
 
 A round rated as follows, is, with attention, 
 sure not to fail. The round should be laid 
 out from left to right as they are in rotation 
 numbered by the wholesale house, as the 
 middle piece or pieces of such numbers is 
 the piece or pieces by which the round is 
 bought, and, consequently, is the average of 
 the round. The value per yard of the 
 highest and lowest number should be added 
 together, the half of which amount ought to 
 be the exact value of the middle number, or 
 
94 
 
 numbers: these are the preliminary steps. 
 The round then should be turned, so that 
 the side on which the wholesale numbers 
 are should face the counter, to prevent the 
 eye being guided by them, rather than the 
 judgment convinced of the quality: each 
 piece must be valued per yard, from left to 
 right, and placed in advance of each other, 
 as high as the average; then from the average 
 to the highest number, in the same way. 
 The proof of a rating being correct may be 
 ascertained thus. Suppose a round of 13 
 at 18d. After the round is rated, you may 
 consider the number of pieces as so many 
 yards at the average price per yard; and if 
 the price of one yard of each of the round 
 rated be added together, and agrees with the 
 amount of the number of pieces considered 
 as yards, at the average price per yard, the 
 round may be said to be correctly rated. 
 It has here been supposed, for an argument, 
 as a round of 13 pieces at 18d., and the fol- 
 lowing is the mechanical rating, say, 13 yards 
 at 18d. = 19s. 6d.; and rate them at 9d. 
 lid. 12d. 13d. 15d. 16d. 18d. 19d. 20d. 
 22d., 2s., 2s. 3d., 2s. 4d., which makes it 
 —19s. 6d. 
 
One may be warraiited to say, the frequent 
 bad stocks of these goods as often arise from 
 rating the cloths to what they appear worth 
 at the time, rather than the actual cost: it 
 should be remembered, that the actual cost 
 (for safety) is imperative, and that whatever 
 profit they may be calculated to bear above 
 the usual one, ought to be deemed a premium 
 on good judgment. Supposed value is only 
 individual opinion at the very most, there- 
 fore it is in some measure accounted, why, 
 in eight stocks out of twelve in the country, 
 a preponderance of high or low cloths (in a 
 degree unsaleable) are so frequently found. 
 
 Lawns — like Irishes, are subject to that 
 interloper called Union; but lawns, con- 
 sidered legitimately, are like Irishes of linen; 
 they are for widths called | and |, for lengths 
 13 yards, and subject lo the same mode of 
 purchase and rating as Irishes. 
 
 French Cambric — as imported, is |wide, 
 generally, and have 7J yards in each piece: 
 it is necessary to remark here, that the Irish 
 manufactures have for a very long period 
 sent out an article which, in its low and 
 
96 
 
 % 
 
 middling- numbers, very much resembles, if 
 not equals the French, but they are not so 
 successful in the higher numbers. These 
 goods, like the Irishes and lawns, are to be 
 bought by the box, half, or quarter; and in 
 rounds, or in single pieces. 
 
 French Cambric Handkerchiefs — are 
 also imitated by the Irish, generally in 
 dozens, are to be had with or without or- 
 namented corners, and are then generally 
 known by the consecutive numbers from 1 
 to 12. 
 
 French Cambric — is also to be had in 
 fents; the word fent has been defined under 
 the head of Cottons. 
 
 Sheetings — for width, are called -I, -I, 
 h h h h Lengths various, and 
 
 in distinction are known by the names, 
 
 Irish, 
 
 Union, 
 Russia, 
 Imitation, do. 
 Lancashire, 
 
 Barnsly, 
 
 Armagh, 
 
 Forfar, 
 
 Hessian. 
 
97 
 
 TABLE LINEN. 
 
 Damask Cloths — for sizes, are always 
 marked by the wholesale houses in the right 
 hand upper corner of each cloth. 
 
 Ditto Napkins — do. do. do. 
 
 Ditto do. in the piece, for widths, are 
 from I to ; lengths uncertain. 
 
 Diaper Cloths — for sizes (see Damask,) 
 
 Ditto Napkins, ,, 
 
 Ditto do., in the piece, for widths are 
 from J to ; lengths uncertain. 
 
 Huckabacks — for widths, are from |to }-} ; 
 lengths uncertain. 
 
 Towels and Towelings — are called by 
 each of the above-named kinds of linen, and 
 to which may be added, Russia, and its 
 imitation. 
 
 Clouting Diapers — and do. do* Union, 
 explain themselves. 
 
 Diapers — of various small patterns, are, in 
 the piece, for widths both by the 
 
 round or box. 
 
 K 
 
98 
 
 Ducks — measure 37 yards each piece, and 
 for widths are called, f, 
 
 Dowlas — for widths, are called by the 
 number of inches they measure, such as 25- 
 inch, &c. ; lengths are indefinite. The dif- 
 ference between a Dowlas and what is called 
 house-wife, home-bleached, &c. is, that its 
 thread is more round, that is, more bleached ; 
 and, on the whole, though more white, is less 
 dressed than the home-bleached. 
 
 Cork Linen — for widths, are ^ ; used 
 principally for glass cloths, &c. 
 
 TICKS 
 
 Are known for widths by the number of inches 
 they measure from selvage to selvage. 
 
 Union Ticks — for widths and lengths, are 
 the same. (Union has been defined at the 
 end of Cotton Goods.) 
 
 Checks— for widths, are I, f, f, 
 
 Do. Union Do. 
 
 Lengths varying from 40 to 60 yards. 
 
99 
 
 Dyed Linen — is a low Irish or duck, dyed, 
 and usually of a black, slate, olive, or grey. 
 Fine goods may also be had dyed. Union 
 cloths are also dyed for lengths and widths. 
 (See Irish and Ducks.) 
 
 Brown Holland — for widths, are j, 
 and ; for lengths, the same as Irish. 
 
 Rough Brown Holland — for widths and 
 lengths, is the same, and differs only from 
 the above by its not being glazed. 
 
 SELECIA. 
 
 This is an article made of linen, similar to 
 a very fine brown Holland, but much more 
 sleazy. It was originally used for general 
 purposes, but now only for window roller- 
 blinds. The narrowest widths commence 
 about 16d. a yard. The widths increase on 
 the following scale, and the prices, per yard, 
 are in advance of each other, from Id. to l|d. 
 or 2d. per inch. 
 
 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 45, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 
 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70. 74, 78, 80, 90, Inches. 
 
PER CENTAGE TABLE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 15s. 
 
 10s. 
 
 7s. Off.i 
 
 5s. j 
 
 2s. 6<i.| 
 
 iOd 
 
 i per 
 cent. 
 
 
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 fl 
 
 
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 rf.! 
 
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 6 
 
 
 
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 3 
 
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 1 
 
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 Of 
 
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 9 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 6f 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 3| 
 
 0 
 
 2f 
 
 0 
 
 i 
 
 If 
 
 Of 
 
 6 
 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 41 
 
 ! 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 Of 
 
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 0 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 lU 
 
 0 
 
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 0 5| 
 
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 ■* 8 
 
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 18 
 
 
 
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 21 
 
 
 
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 0 lOi 
 
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 2i 
 
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 2 
 
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 18 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 9 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 
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 20i 
 
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 0 101 
 
 0 
 
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 3| 
 
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 2 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 221 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 Ilf 
 
 0 
 
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 2 
 
 9 
 
 
 
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 0 
 
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 15 
 
 
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 0 
 
 
 
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 3 
 
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 18 
 
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 0 
 
 9 
 
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 4 
 
 16i 
 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 0 19^ 
 
 0 14i 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 3 6 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 1 0 lii 
 
 0 101 
 
 
 
 If 
 
 I8f 
 
 ... 
 
 3 9 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 n 
 
 0 221 
 
 0 16| 
 
 1 
 
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 0 
 
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 4 
 
 20 
 
 
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 2 
 
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 0 
 
 12 
 
 ! 0 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 !« 
 
 
 
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 3 
 
 
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 3 
 
 n 
 
 2 11 
 
 0 19| 
 
 0 12| 
 
 ! 0 
 
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 22i 
 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 |... 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 0 20J 
 
 0 
 
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 0 14f 
 
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 25 
 
 
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 3 
 
 9 
 
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 6 
 
 I 0 22f 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 2f 
 
PER CENTAGE TABLE— continued. 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 15s. 
 
 10s. 
 
 7s. 
 
 6d. 
 
 5s. 
 
 2s. 
 
 6d. 
 
 lOd. 
 
 27^ 
 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 0 . 
 
 (N 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 d. 
 
 cent. 
 
 are 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 a 
 
 bD 
 
 
 4 
 
 H 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 Of 
 
 0 
 
 164 
 
 0 
 
 8| 
 
 2f 
 
 30 
 
 ... 
 
 6 0 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 31:1 
 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4f 
 
 0 
 
 18| 
 
 0 
 
 Of 
 
 04 
 
 32| 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 lOi 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 5| 
 
 0 
 
 194 
 
 0 
 
 Of 
 
 3| 
 
 33f 
 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Of 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 6| 
 
 0 20^ 
 
 0 
 
 104 
 
 Of 
 
 35 
 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 ‘74 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 304 
 
 34 
 
 36| 
 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 5| 
 
 3 
 
 ^4 
 
 2 
 
 8 | 
 
 0 21 f 
 
 0 
 
 lOf 
 
 H 
 
 3 i 5 
 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 n 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 9f 
 
 0 
 
 224 
 
 0 111 
 
 3f 
 
 38f 
 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 n 
 
 3 
 
 104 
 
 , 2 
 
 lOf 
 
 0 23| 
 
 0 111 
 
 3f 
 
 40 
 
 ... 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 41i 
 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 2 ? 
 
 4 
 
 1 1 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 Of 
 
 0 
 
 12j 
 
 44 
 
 42i 
 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 4i 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 0 12| 
 
 4| 
 
 43| 
 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 6| 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 3 
 
 
 2 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 134 
 
 4| 
 
 45 
 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 1 ... 
 
 i_ 
 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 134 
 
 44 
 
 4T^ 
 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 H 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 6f 
 
 2 
 
 44 
 
 0 14| 
 
 4f 
 
 50 
 
 ... 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 60 
 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 TO 
 
 ... 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 SO 
 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 90 
 
 t 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 9* 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 100 1 
 
 !... 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 !l0 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 10 1 
 
 1 
 
 K 3 
 
102 
 
 The preceding Tables are given as proof to 
 any sums under 20s. which occasion or incli- 
 nation may lead a person to work by the fol- 
 lowing Rule ; and as a circuitous method is 
 frequently taken for ascertaining what per 
 centage a certain proJit forms, the subjoined 
 possibly may not be deemed objectionable : 
 
 Rule : Divide the original cost by the sum 
 gained, then divide 100 by its quotient, the 
 quotient of which is what is required. 
 
 Example : For that which has been sold 
 for 3s., 2s. 6d. was given ; well then, 6d. was 
 gained on 30d. — 6’s in 30 are 5 times, 5’s in 
 100 are 20 ; therefore 20 per cent. 
 
 Proof: Look in the top line for 2s. 6d., 
 then descend perpendicularly till you arrive 
 at 6, take then an horizontal direction to the 
 margin, in which it will prove to be 20 per 
 cent. 
 
103 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 As it has become very general for the trade 
 to add many fancy goods to the Mercery 
 stock, a list of the usual additions is added 
 by way of an appendix. 
 
 CHILD-BED LINEN-. 
 
 Infant’s Lawn Shirts. 
 
 Cambric ditto. 
 
 Scotch ditto. 
 
 Lawn Night-caps. 
 
 French Cambric ditto. 
 
 Scotch ditto. 
 
 French Cambric Dress Caps. 
 
 Cambric Slips. 
 
 Ditto Long Robes. 
 
 Short ditto. 
 
 Robe Gowns, 
 
 Muslin and Cloth Long Pelisses. 
 
 Ditto Short. 
 
 Worked Cambric Caps. 
 
 Ditto Frock Bodies. 
 
 Scotch and French Cambric Rounds, 
 Nett ditto ditto. 
 
104 
 
 Jean and Satteen Frocks and Dresses. 
 Gingham and Merino ditto. 
 
 Colored and White Cambric ditto. 
 Nankeen Bonnets and Hats. 
 
 Colored and .White Cambric ditto. 
 
 Silk, Satin, and Gros de Nap. ditto. 
 Tippets and Sleeves. 
 
 Spencers. 
 
 Blankets. 
 
 Swaiths. 
 
 Stays. 
 
 Worsted, Cotton, Cloth, and Silk Shoes. 
 Baskets, trimmed and untrimmed. 
 
 Stuck and Plain Pincushions. 
 
 Ladies’ Night-caps. 
 
 HEADY MADE LINEN. 
 
 Ladies’ Long Cloth Chemise. 
 
 Linen ditto. 
 
 Long Cloth Night-Gowns. 
 
 Ditto Slips. 
 
 Cambric Muslin Ditto. 
 
 Trowsers. 
 
 India Rubber, Kid, Silk, and Whale- 
 bone Spring Garters. 
 
105 
 
 Gentlemen’s Shirt Collars. 
 
 Ditto Fronts. 
 
 Striped Long Cloth and Linen Shirts. 
 
 Armozeen, Paris Cord, Satin, Velvet, Mo- 
 hair, Hair Cord, Jean, and Muslin 
 Stocks. 
 
 Muslin, Hair Cord, Gingham, and Tovrn 
 printed Berkeley Neckerchiefs. 
 
 Stiffeners. 
 
 Cotton, Silk, Doe, and India Rubber 
 Braces. 
 
 Ditto ditto Garters. 
 
 Watch Guards. 
 
 Ditto Ribbons. 
 
 Ptiding Beits. 
 
 Brace Swivels. 
 
 MILLINERY. 
 
 Ladies’ Bonnets. 
 
 Caps. 
 
 Turbans. 
 
 Blond Canzous. 
 
 Silk Cloaks. 
 
 Merino ditto. 
 
 Mourning Caps and Collars. 
 
106 
 
 Ditto Muslin and Nett. 
 
 Ditto Frills ditto. 
 
 Ditto Capes ditto. 
 
 Lace Caps. 
 
 Nett ditto, trimmed, and untrimmed^ 
 Widows’ Caps. 
 
 Ladies’ Muslin Turbans. 
 
 Gauze ditto. 
 
 Silk ditto. 
 
 Habit Shirts. 
 
 Lace and Muslin Aprons. 
 
 Silk ditto. 
 
 Ditto Tamboured and Braided Ditto. 
 Sewed Muslin and Nett ditto. 
 Canzous and Capes. 
 
 Flowers of all kinds. 
 
 French ditto. 
 
 Ditto Feathers. 
 
 Ditto Embroidery. 
 
 Melvinas,'\ 
 
 Victorias, % Neck- ties. 
 
 Fichures , } 
 
 Ladies’ Robes. 
 
107 
 
 FANCY AND IRREGULAR GOODS. 
 
 Silk, Cotton, and Worsted Fringes ; Gimps, 
 used for trimming dresses, &c. in all co- 
 lors, and in pieces of one dozen yards. 
 Ditto ditto Braids, for the same purposes, in 
 nominal grosses, four pieces to the gross. 
 Silk Piping Wire, all colors. 
 
 Silk and Cotton Ties, Tassels, and Girdles, 
 all colors. 
 
 Ditto Norman Laces, ditto. 
 
 English and Foreign Black, Colored, and 
 White Chip. 
 
 Ditto Willows, ditto. 
 
 Reticules and Baskets. 
 
 Candle Ornaments. 
 
 Mohair Curls. 
 
 Invisible Wire for Lace and Nett Caps. 
 
 Ivory, Bone, Cedar, Silk, and Paper, Fans. 
 Silk, Tissue, and Kid Long and Short Purses. 
 Cedar Pencils. 
 
 Lucifer Boxes. 
 
 Imitation Cigars. 
 
 Cigar Cases, of Leather, Wood, and Hair. 
 Table Mats. 
 
 Ditto Covers. 
 
 D’Oyleys. 
 
103 
 
 Fiate Baskets. 
 
 Watch Cushions. 
 
 Hooks & Eyes, p 
 
 Buttons, CCilt, Pearl, Ivory, & Glass, 
 
 Studs, 3 
 
 Cloak Clasps, ditto ditto. 
 
 Boa Fasteners, ditto ditto. 
 
 Beads, in Gilt Steel, Pearl, Coral, and Glass. 
 Purse Slides, Gilt, Steel, Plated, and Pearl. 
 Ditto Tassels, ditto. 
 
 Ditto Rings and Bars, ditto. 
 
 Ditto Mounts. 
 
 Reticules. 
 
 Snaps and Bracelets. 
 
 Head Bands of Hair and Velvet. 
 
 Crosses ; Jet, Berlin, Gilt. 
 
 Ditto, with Hearts. 
 
 Buckles ; Gilt, Black Enamel, and Pearl. 
 Brooches, ditto, ditto, and Gold. 
 
 Pins, ditto, ditto. 
 
 Lockets ; Gold, Gilt, and Pearl. 
 
 Neck-chains. 
 
 Watch-guards ; Silver Gilt, Gold, & Bronze. 
 Seals; Gilt, Glass, and Gold. 
 
 Cabinets, ditto, ditto. 
 
 Watch Keys, ditto, ditto. 
 
 Ring-.-?, ditto, ditto. 
 
109 
 
 Ear-rings. 
 
 Necklaces — Black, Coral, Pearl. 
 
 Thimbles — Silver, &c. &c. 
 
 Pencil Cases. 
 
 Pin Cases. 
 
 Steel-pens of all sorts. 
 
 Tooth-picks — Silver, &c. 
 
 Cigar-tubes, ditto. 
 
 Bodkins, ditto. 
 
 Tweezers, ditto. Steel, &c. 
 
 Scissors, ditto, ditto. 
 
 Eyeglasses — Gilt, Silver, and Gold. 
 
 Watch Hooks, ditto, ditto. 
 
 Mounted Corks. 
 
 Wine Labels — Plated, Silver, and Pearl. 
 Bronze Tapers. 
 
 Ditto Pastile Burners. 
 
 Ditto Chamber Lamps. 
 
 Ditto Thermometers. 
 
 Ditto and Bone Egg-boilers. 
 
 Ditto Phosphorus-boxes and Stand. 
 
 Card and Bronze Racks. 
 
 Watch Pockets. 
 
 Ditto Stands — of Paper, Leather, Bronze, 
 and Wood. 
 
 Screen Paper. 
 
 Embossed Leather. ' . 
 
 r. 
 
no 
 
 Card-cases, of Leather, Shell, or Wood. 
 Ink-boxes. 
 
 Paint ditto. 
 
 Cotton ditto. 
 
 Netting ditto. 
 
 Pin ditto. 
 
 Chinese ditto. 
 
 Basket ditto. 
 
 Toilet ditto. 
 
 Silk Winders. 
 
 Needle-cases. 
 
 Toilet Looking Glasses. 
 
 Bellows — Japan, Mahogany, and Bronze. 
 Screen Handles. 
 
 Cushions. 
 
 Cabinet Cups and Saucers. 
 
 Egg Cups. 
 
 Vases. 
 
 Scent Bottles. 
 
 Eau de Cologne. 
 
 Oils. 
 
 Soaps. 
 
 Pomade. 
 
 Backgammon Boards. 
 
 Rosewood, Mahogany, and Leather Dressing- 
 cases. 
 
 Ditto ditto Inkstands. 
 
Ill 
 
 Rosewood, Mahogany, and Leather Work 
 Boxes. 
 
 Ditto ditto and Leather Writing Desks. 
 
 Draft Boards. 
 
 Embossed Birds, Flowers, and Animals, plain 
 and coloured. 
 
 Oiled Cambric, Silk, and Cloths. 
 
 Ladies’ Leather, Lasting, Spanish, Silk, and 
 Kid Shoes. 
 
 Ditto figured, and Satin Slippers and Boots. 
 Ditto Clogs. 
 
 Moreen and Carpet Travelling Bags. 
 Portmanteaus. 
 
 Leather Hat-cases. 
 
 India Cane Mats. 
 
 Leghorns. 
 
 Musical Boxes. 
 
 Foreign Clocks, &c. &c. 
 
 A LIST OF COLOURS. 
 
 Sky Blue, 
 Waterloo do. 
 Maize do. 
 Navy do. 
 Coburgh do. 
 Marone, 
 
 Pomona Green, 
 Emerald do. 
 Grass do. 
 Myrtle do. 
 Light Slate, 
 Middle do. 
 
112 
 
 Light EstefLazy, 
 Middle do. 
 Dark do. 
 French Grey, 
 Cloth do. 
 Yellow, 
 
 Amber, 
 
 Red 
 
 Light Brown, 
 Hair do. 
 Spanish do. 
 Devon do. 
 Chocolate, 
 
 Puce, 
 
 Amaranthus, 
 
 Violet, 
 
 Peach, 
 
 Lavender, 
 
 Purple, 
 
 Primrose, 
 
 Ponceau, 
 
 Ruby, 
 
 Dead White, 
 Blue do. 
 French do. 
 
 Pearl do- 
 
 Dark White 
 Olive, 
 
 Sage, 
 
 Plum, 
 Scarlet, 
 Crimson, 
 Orange, 
 Cinnamon, 
 Light Fawn, 
 Middle do. 
 Dark do. 
 Light Drab, 
 Middle do. 
 Dark do. 
 Bronze, 
 Straw, 
 
 Buff, 
 
 Rose, 
 
 Nankeen, 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Beetroot, 
 
 Lilac, 
 
 Pearl White,. 
 Jet Black, 
 Blue do- 
 
Fifteen Maxims^ 'particularly addressed to 
 Junior Apprentices. 
 
 1. Personal cleanliness in no occupation 
 is so essential as to a draper. 
 
 2. No person ought to be in dishabille 
 after ten o’clock. 
 
 3. Avoid foppish habits as much as 
 slovenly practices; the first is as repel- 
 lant to a well-ordered female mind, as 
 the last is disgusting to every one. 
 
 4. Flexibility of opinion and temper is 
 highly necessary; never insist on the 
 simplest fact to the simplest customer, 
 for, during the time of serving, you are 
 the most interested party, and the very 
 humble servant. 
 
 5. It is an insult to the delicacy of any 
 female, however humble her station, to 
 
114 
 
 be attended on by a person in his shirt 
 sleeves; warmth of weather is no excuse, 
 as a light coat, without a waistcoat, but- 
 toned as high as a waistcoat usually is, 
 and with a waist-pocket for scissors, &c. 
 may be substituted for that which is too 
 
 6. Jesting with a customer, though it 
 may appear agreeable, is dangerous, in- 
 asmuch as you may hit harder than they 
 may be inclined to forgive. You, con- 
 sequently, forfeit a customer. 
 
 7. Never at the counter argue on 
 religion, politics, or parish-business; nor 
 appear eager to receive, or willing to 
 propagate, a scandal. 
 
 8. A silly action wears the sneer of 
 but a day, but if behind the counter you 
 say a silly thing, it will attach ridicule to 
 you as long as you are known. 
 
 9. Choice of words, in addressing dif- 
 ferent persons, is very requisite ; it would 
 be an insult to an honest market-woman 
 
115 
 
 to be addressed with that deference usually 
 paid to a respectable tradesman's wife, as 
 much as the latter would be disgusted with 
 that formality expected by a lady of rank. 
 This deference, and this formality, you 
 may deem very trifling things: so they 
 are in fact ; but, like all other ceremonies, 
 they are the barriers of good-breeding and 
 decency; keeping all at proper distances, 
 as well as insuring that courtesy towards 
 those various grades luxury has created 
 among us. 
 
 10. When a customer becomes beyond 
 the power of the person serving her to 
 please, that hand ought to be relieved by 
 another; the customer, after a short time, 
 to be retaken by the former hand. This 
 proceeding would be a great benefit to a 
 temper easily provoked, and in most cases 
 prevent what is vulgarly called a swap. 
 
 11. As Englishmen, we are, more than 
 any others, the dupes of diffidence; a 
 fact in few places so fully established as 
 
116 
 
 at a mercer’s counter, and in the crim- 
 soned cheek of a youth approaching to 
 wait on a lady, particularly if she be a 
 stranger. The same embarrassment has 
 been witnessed in the otherwise veteran 
 of the counter. To counteract this weak- 
 ness, (for it may not he called a meanness 
 of soulj) the Author would be the last to 
 substitute an indiscriminate assurance; 
 but he recommends coolness and firm 
 modesty, which cannot fail to produce 
 legitimate confidence: this, it must be 
 admitted, is not to be. accomplished by 
 one day’s practice, nor solely by theory; 
 nevertheless, it is too important a point to 
 be given up under the most unpromising 
 circumstances. 
 
 The effects of perseverance is an old 
 proverb; it has, and will ever be, practically 
 good: the same would result from the 
 words cannoty don't knoio hoiu, and im- 
 possihhy being struck from the vocabulary 
 of every youth. The least objectionable aid 
 
117 
 
 they afford, is security to early diffidence, 
 which ought to be rallied ; but mostly, they 
 form the scapegoat for indolence, which 
 deserves scouting. In spite of all sophistry, 
 it stands still firm, that to whatever 
 excellency A. has arrived, B., by deter- 
 mined perseverance, may, at the very 
 least, reach respectability in. 
 
 12. There is much policy in at times 
 appearing deaf, as well as blind; but 
 while this must be acknowledged to be 
 passive prevarication, no one, perhaps, is 
 prepared to banter with them on the score 
 of infringed morality, nor is the Author 
 disposed to advance one word more as 
 their advocate; for, with industry, polite- 
 ness, and an attention to the eye of the 
 customer, what has been foolishly called 
 a necessary lie is not called into re- 
 quisition. 
 
 13. The respectability of any concern 
 should never be compromised by that 
 system most vulgarly called shaving; it 
 
 M 
 
118 
 
 is dangerous in its simplest application, 
 however adroit. 
 
 14. Reading during the hours of business 
 is very censurable. 
 
 15. In order that a young man may 
 know his own value, he should impose on 
 himself to sell goods to a certain amount 
 daily, by sheer introduction. Salaries, in 
 general, would be far better, if they were 
 merited in such a manner. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Pageo 
 
 Preface iii. 
 
 Introduction v. 
 
 Stay Whalebone 1 
 
 Buttons ib. 
 
 Tapes 2 
 
 Threads 5 
 
 Cottons 9 
 
 Pins 17 
 
 Short Method of Calculating 18 
 
 Cords and Bobbins 21 
 
 Needles 23 
 
 Boltings 24 
 
 Rug Canvass 25 
 
 Cheese Cloths ib. 
 
 Bed Lace ib. 
 
 Furniture Fringes 26 
 
 Ribbon Velvets 27 
 
 Miscellaneous ib. 
 
 Laces 31 
 
 Wires 33 
 
 Statute Galloons ib. 
 
 Foundations 35 
 
 Moulds 36 
 
 Hooks and Eyes ib. 
 
 Yams ib. 
 
120 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Worsted 37 
 
 Buckram 38 
 
 Sewing Silks ib. 
 
 Ribbons 39 
 
 Cotton Handkerchiefs 44 
 
 Hosiery 45 
 
 Gloves 48 
 
 Parasols ib. 
 
 Stays 49 
 
 Thread Lace and Netts 50 
 
 Silk Mercery 5l 
 
 Muslins 64 
 
 Do. Trimmings 70 
 
 Feathers, Flowers ib. 
 
 Calicos 74 
 
 Prints 77 
 
 Nankeens, &c 78 
 
 Scotch Cambric and Handkerchiefs 79 
 
 Flannels 80 
 
 Broad Cloths, &c 91 
 
 Hats and Caps 92 
 
 Irish Linens, &c 93 
 
 Per Centage Tables 100 
 
 Appendix 103 
 
 Childbed Linen ih. 
 
 Readymade Linen 104 
 
 Millinery 105 
 
 Fancy and irregular Goods 107 
 
 List of Colours Ill 
 
 Maxims 113 
 
 J. and C. Adlard, Printers, Bartholomew Close. 
 

 
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