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THE KITCHEN ORACLE 
 
 OF 
 
 Modern Culinary Art. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 GOOD DINNERS AND HOW TO DRESS THEM, 
 
 FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR; 
 
 AND A LARGE AMOUNT OF USEFUL INFORMATION ON ALL MATTERS 
 CONNECTED WITH THE KITCHEN, A LARGE NUMBER OF DISHES OF 
 GREAT NOVELTY, AND THE GREATEST IMPROVEMENTS IN 
 CULINARY ART AT THE PRESENT DAY. 
 
 By SAMUEL HOBBS, 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 
 ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY CULINARY DAINTIES, 
 
 FOR THE EPICURE, THE INVALID, AND THE DYSPEPTIC. 
 
 Late Chef to Messrs. Gunter Co., Berkeley Square. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 DEAN AND SON, 160A, FLEET STREET, E. C. 
 
 Publishing Office of “ Debrett’s Pecr.ige." 
 

 
THE KITCHEN ORACLE. 
 
 ■-—♦- 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 This work will contain an exhaustive summary of Modern 
 Cookery as at present served from our best kitchens, both of the 
 most recherche dinners as well as those which should be as little 
 expensive as possible. 
 
 It will contain a Bill of Fare for a dinner of 18 to 20 persons 
 suitable for every month in the year , which, if divided equally, 
 will serve for two or more dinners. 
 
 Next to each Menu will be found a Requisition List, showing 
 every item needed for each dinner. 
 
 Then will follow, in due succession, a clear description how to 
 prepare each dish and its belongings ; also how to serve each 
 dinner, and when to commence its preparation. 
 
 And here I might justly remark that, since the days when 
 MM. Ude, Soyer, and Francatelli wrote their different 
 works on Cookery, such a wonderful change has taken place 
 that one half the dishes described by them are now scarcely ever 
 heard of or seen. I therefore fully believe that such a work as 
 The Kitchen Oracle would be a welcome visitant in every 
 nobleman and gentleman’s household in England. 
 
 The style of dinner, a la Russe, commenced thirty years ago, 
 and has gone on till the present time; and latterly the same 
 chaste manner has been carried out in the Ball Suppers which 
 now take place, at about one- third the expense they used to cost. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Thus all Mr. FRANCATELLTs French elaboration and superfluity 
 have passed away, never to return, and left not a semblance 
 behind them. 
 
 English taste and English habits have now established a style 
 .and school of Cookery of its own, such that is worthy to appear 
 side by side with our plain boiled or roast joints , our plain boiled 
 or roast poultry, and our plain roast game, which have never 
 changed, and I think it is likely never will; for, however well 
 a dinner may be served, it would be imperfect in England with¬ 
 out the splendid adjuncts I have named above. 
 
 Upon an intelligible and lucid basis our own book will be 
 built; and we have not the least doubt that we shall be able to 
 show a truly commendable and useful Work that any reader 
 will understand, and throughout which English and French 
 dishes will equally appear; but the latter will be frequently 
 divested of unnecessary adornment, and adapted to English 
 
 ■ 
 
 habits and tastes of the present day. That such a book on 
 Cookery is needed there is not the least doubt, but of this the 
 Work will speak for itself. 
 
 Forty years of active and practical experience in the best 
 kitchens of the Metropolis will be brought to bear to ensure its 
 success as a Work of information to those wishing to become 
 accomplished cooks. 
 
 SAMUEL HOBBS, 
 
 Author of “ 160 Culinary Dainties :' 1 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 FOR JANUARY, 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Mulligatawny, of Fowls. 
 
 Consomme a la Jardiniere. 
 
 (Two Fisk.) 
 
 Cod-fish, a l’Anglaise, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Filets of Soles, en fritot, Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 (Four Entries.) 
 
 Two Saute of Fowls, a l’lndienne. 
 
 Two Quenelles of Pheasants, a la Toulouse. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Braized Turkey, a la Milanaise. 
 
 P.oast Saddle of Mutton, a 1 ’Essence, 
 
 2ND Service. 
 
 Roast Partridges. Roast Wild Ducks. 
 
 Two Saute of Potatoes, a la Fran5aise. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Baba a la Polonaise. Pudding a la Duchesse. 
 
 Two Gelees a la Macedoine. 
 
 Two Bavaroise a la Vanille. 
 
 Favorites au Parmesan a la Moderne. 
 
 Vegetables in Season. 
 
6 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Requisition List.—Showing all the things which are needed for 
 this dinner in the kitchen. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and half veal, and without 
 bones ; six calves’ feet, two pounds of gravy beef, and two pounds of 
 slice of veal; one saddle of mutton, two medium-size throat sweetbreads 
 of veal, one ox tongue. (The soup meat, ox tongue, and six calves’ 
 feet, and two throat breads, to be in the kitchen by nine o’clock, Thurs¬ 
 day morning, January 8th), the remainder on Friday morning at nine 
 o’clock. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Four young fowls of best quality, three to cut, one to boil, two old 
 hens for soup, one turkey, not too large, five partridges, two wild ducks, 
 three pheasants, two pounds of sausage meat; all to be in the kitchen 
 on Thursday, the 8th (with the exception of the wild ducks and par¬ 
 ti idges, which are to be trussed for roasting, and should arrive on 
 Saturday morning). The turkey to be trussed for braizing. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 T our prime slices of codfish, four medium-size soles (filleted), four dozen 
 oysters for stewing (the stewing oysters to be in the kitchen Friday 
 morning, the remainder Saturday morning). 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Twelve lemons, two quarts Brussels’ sprouts, one dish winter spinach, 
 twelve pounds potatoes, six cauliflowers, two quarts of preserved peas, 
 one bunch parsley, six carrots, six onions, two heads celery. The 
 lemons, parsley, carrots, onions, and celery, to be in the kitchen nine 
 o clock, Thursday morning, the rest on Saturday morning. (Also two 
 ripe pears, three oranges, and half-pound grapes). 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 One pot apricot jam, one pound parmesan cheese, one pot of red 
 currant jelly, two sticks vanille, half-pound currants, half-pound 
 sultanas, half-pound citron, half-pound orange peel, one pound preserved 
 cherries, one bottle sherry, half bottle brandy, one pint tin of truffles, 
 
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 7 
 
 one pint bottle of ragout, two pint tins of champignons, one pound of 
 Naples macaroni, one quart tin of tomatoes, one quart tin of puree 
 or pulp of apricots, two pounds of salt butter, two pounds of fresh 
 butter, thirty fresh eggs, two quarts of fresh cream, two quarts of milk, 
 three pounds of good-flavoured ham, twelve sponge cakes, half-pound 
 ratifias. (The cream and milk to be in the kitchen on Friday morning, 
 the cream to be the best double cream, and very fresh). 
 
 The Foundation.—Stocks, Gravies, and Sauces. —Sufficient 
 for a dinner of sixteen or eighteen persons. Take 24 lbs. of soup 
 meat, half beef and veal; six calves’ feet ; two old hens, the larger 
 the better; and 3 lbs. of ham of good flavour (the soup meat 
 without bone). Be very particular in seeing that your soup meat 
 is very fresh, and of excellent quality ; and that the old hens are 
 also fresh; and, when you cut up your calves’ feet, examine them, 
 and smell each one, so that they are not tainted; for I well know, by 
 long experience, you cannot be too particular in these matters ; and 
 the same with every article of flesh, fowl, and fish to be used for 
 the dinner. 
 
 And if you have time and convenience, prepare the stocks, gravies 
 and sauces needed, two clear days before the day of the dinner. 
 And now, having your hot-plate quite hot and ready for use, take 
 two eight-quart stewpans, one of them an extra stout one, and with 
 a cover that will fit tightly; rub on the bottom of the stout one 
 about £ lb. of butter; then cut half the ham in slices, and place 
 these on the butter, and then divide your soup meat, one half for 
 white stock and one half for the brown ; and take the veal from one 
 portion and lay it on the slices of ham, and on this the beef, both 
 cut up ; then add one half-pint of water, and put on the lid so as 
 to fit tightly, and place it on the hottest place of the hot plate—to 
 what is termed in kitchen parlance —to run down. It will take about 
 two hours to do this, of which we will speak again shortly; but 
 suffice it to say the meat it contains is to make the brown gravy for 
 your soup, and also for your brown sauce, so let it boil down as 
 quickly as possible. 
 
s 
 
 calf’s foot stock for jelly. 
 
 To Prepare White Stock. —For white soup and for white 
 sauces. Take the remainder of the soup meat, and cut it up into 
 pieces of about £ lb. each, and place them into the other stew-pan; cut 
 up also the remainder of the ham, and add the same to the soup 
 meat, and cover with cold water in which has been well whipt the 
 whites of two eggs, and place on the fire to boil quickly (and let me 
 add, the water should cover the meat to about two inches); add to 
 the same, one of the calf’s feet, cut up ; when it boils, take care to 
 skim it well—in fact, do not leave it till all the scum has been taken 
 off. It will require to very steadily simmer for about six hours. 
 And now remove the fillets from the old hens, and chop up the 
 carcass of one, after the fillets have been removed, and add this to 
 the white stock. There should also be added three onions, one head 
 of celery, and two carrots. The stock should be looked at from one 
 half-hour to another, and any scum removed, and also to see they 
 are readily simmering, or very slowly boiling ; and the fillets from, 
 the old hens placed in the larder. 
 
 Calf’s Foot Stock for Jelly.— Cut up the other five calves’ feet 
 reserving one for the brown stock (for the pot that is running down, 
 which add to the same), covering it again closely. Place the four 
 in a suitable size stew-pan, and cover with cold water to about two 
 inches above the feet; and when it boils well, skim the same, and 
 let boil very slowly for about six hours, taking care to watch the 
 same, and add a little more water when needed during the time 
 it is boiling. 
 
 And now give your attention to the stew-pan that has been 
 running down. Draw it to you, take off the lid, and give its contents 
 your closest inspection ; and the great thing to guard against is to 
 prevent its burning, for if burnt it would become bitter, and would 
 most certainly be spoilt. So give it your best attention. Take now 
 and then a large iron spoon, and when the meat at the bottom has 
 become nicely brown and you find the moisture exhausted, and 
 all the juice reduced to glaze, so much so that you can roll a small 
 piece into a ball between your finger and thumb; then take sufficient 
 cold water to cover the meat (about six quarts) and place two whites 
 
ASPIC JELLY SAUCE. 
 
 9 
 
 of eggs in this, whisking the same for a few seconds with a wire 
 whisk; and pour it over the meat, and then bring to the boil quickly, 
 and when it does so, skim it well; and when you have removed all 
 the scum, add the same quantity of carrots, onions, and celery as to 
 the white stock, and let it boil very slowly for six hours; taking care 
 every now and then to skim the same, and see that it boils during 
 the whole of the time mentioned. Taking the other fowl or old 
 hen, and chopping up the remainder, add this to the brown stock. 
 Or you can tie it up closely after the fillets have been removed, and 
 roast it till nice and brown, and then add it to this stock for the 
 brown gravy. 
 
 Brown Stock another Way. —Prepare the broth as for the 
 white stock, and add the roast carcass of fowl and a little bishop, 
 as it is termed, which is burnt sugar with a little water added, and 
 generally kept in most kitchens for making gravies brown, and is 
 called bishop. 
 
 And there is another Way, as follows :—Cut up a couple 
 of slices of ham, and about i lb. of the lean of your stock-meat veal; 
 and cut these about half an inch square ; cut up also two onions in 
 slices; add to these about one gill of clarified butter, with the yellow 
 part of a carrot (the outside part cut rather thick), and let these fry 
 till of a nice brown colour. Then add about one quart of water, let 
 it boil, and skim the same to free it from the butter ; and add it to a 
 stock prepared in all respects the same as your white stock just 
 described, which will then become brown stock after the colouring 
 is added and the roast part of the old hen. Now, the reason of the 
 last two manners has doubtless arisen through fear of burning in the 
 first method. But there is no fear to the experienced cook; and 
 the first method is the old French manner, and I think it the best; 
 but to the inexperienced the last method is very good. 
 
 Aspic Jelly Stock. —Place two calves’ feet cut up, with a 
 knuckle of veal about 2 lbs.; and an old hen, a small one; all 
 should be cut up rather small, and covered with cold water about 
 two inches, brought quickly to the boil, and when well skimmed, 
 add one onion, one small head of celery, and one small carrot. 
 
10 
 
 THE WHITE STOCK STRAINED. 
 
 Let it boil very slowly for six hours, adding more water when 
 needed. 
 
 Stock for Supreme Sauce. —Prepare the same as above, using 
 only one calf’s foot, one old hen, with the fillets removed, and two 
 small knuckles of veal about 3 lb. Vegetables and water the same ; 
 but it should boil—very, very slowly—five hours. 
 
 Now the great point with all the above stocks is to let them 
 slowly boil; and attend and watch them, and see that the hot-plate 
 is properly attended to. And a few remarks I will make as to the 
 necessity, when there is really good cooking going on, or a good 
 dinner to prepare, to begin in good time. And this holds good in 
 regard to the stocks, a description of which we have just given; 
 and most particularly so when what is called a second stock has 
 to be obtained after the first stock has been drawn off; for the 
 second stock has or ought to boil three hours. Therefore, how 
 very necessary it is to begin in good time if you wish to be forward 
 with your work. 
 
 But we will consider it is time to strain off your first stocks. 
 And before doing so, see that you have the pans to place the 
 same in, all washed, and well dried by placing them in the screen; 
 for if your pans are dry your stocks will be sure to keep well; 
 and if dajnp when the stocks are placed in them, are sure not to 
 keep well. 
 
 The White Stock Strained. —And now you should have two 
 soup cloths well washed in warm water, so as to remove any 
 flavour or smell of soap. And place a sieve over your pan, with 
 your soup cloth spread over this. Then pour about one quart 
 at a time into the cloth, and when all is strained write a label, 
 and drop one end of it in the stock, and then stick it on the 
 inside ol the pan, or outside, and place in the larder. And now 
 just cover the stock again with water, and place again on the 
 die to boil for about three hours. And next strain the others, 
 and place in rotation in the larder. But the calf’s foot stock 
 should be strained through a hair sieve, and the meat from the 
 supreme stock should be placed along with that of the white 
 
ROUX. 
 
 11 
 
 stock. And the remains of the aspic jelly stock, along with 
 that of the brown stock, and the residue from each covered with 
 water, and again brought to boil as quickly as possible, which 
 are for second stock, and the calf’s foot stock the same, which 
 should slowly boil for another three hours, and then be strained 
 off and placed in pans with labels on them, and put in the larder. 
 And the oil on the calf’s foot stock should be removed before 
 placing in the larder. 
 
 Roux, or thickening for white and brown sauce—how to prepare 
 it. Place 2 lb. of butter to slowly melt on a cool part of the hot¬ 
 plate. When you see it has melted, pour off the liquid butter as 
 far as you can ; and with a spoon remove the remainder of the 
 butter. Place the same on the fire; and when hot, stir into the 
 butter sufficient flour—and let it be of the best quality—to make 
 the same about as thick as stiff batter. Stir for some time over 
 the fire, and then let it remain on that part of the hot-plate 
 where it will cook, but not burn. Watch the same, and stir it 
 frequently to prevent it burning, and when you think it cooked 
 enough, place the half of it in a suitable sized kitchen basin, to 
 use for white sauce ; and stir the other till of a nice brown colour ; 
 when place it also in a kitchen basin, and keep both for thickening 
 your white and brown sauce. 
 
 And when your second stock has boiled three hours, strain it 
 off through a soup cloth, and place in the larder till the following 
 day; when boil the half of it down for glaze, keeping the other 
 for use. And now, before proceeding further, look at the Bill of 
 Fare, and also your requisition list, and send your orders to the 
 different tradespeople; being particular to mark on each list the 
 things required for each day. As, for instance, the fish should 
 come on the day of the dinner, and so with a greater part of the 
 things from the greengrocer. By paying attention to this you will 
 save yourself trouble; and a Bill of Fare will be found in each monthly 
 number; also a requisition list showing all things needed. And if 
 you need to change one dish or dishes for others, a suitable list will 
 be found in the numbers of the work, and each and all in season. 
 
12 
 
 MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 
 
 And now, having all the stocks and broths ready to hand, proceed 
 to follow in their preparation the instructions here given. So see 
 that your hot-plate has a good fire in it, and is nice and hot. And 
 bring your stocks into the kitchen. Your white and brown stocks 
 first, and if any fat shows upon them remove the same, and divide 
 the brown stock into two statable sized stew-pans, and the same 
 with the white stock ; half being for soup and half for sauce (with 
 both the white and brown stock) when they boil. Then bring out 
 your roux, or thickening; cut it up on the dresser, and calculate 
 that one good handful will mix two quarts of stock into sauce , 
 and you will want about five pints or three quarts of each kind 
 of sauce. Place your roux into a three-quart kitchen pan (say 
 for your white sauce), and pour about one pint of boiling stock 
 over the roux, and then, with a wire whisk, mix together till it 
 shows smooth; then add another pint, and mix this also, and 
 so on, till you have the quantity needed; then let one of your 
 assistants stir the sauce over the fire with a wooden spoon till it 
 boils, and when it does so, remove it where it will keep boiling very 
 gently ; it should be of about the consistence of good cream. And 
 now by boiling gently it will throw up the butter of which the roux 
 was made, which if retained in the sauce, would prove deleterious to 
 health. And now proceed to mix the brown sauce in exactly the 
 same way as the white sauce, and of the same consistency, adding 
 a little more roux if needed, or a little more stock ; and here let me 
 observe, that about one pint of the best gravy should be reserved for 
 the roasts, and a little of the second stock used if needed. And if you 
 can obtain a few very fresh and white mushrooms, slice up a dozen 
 for each sauce (I mean the champignons or button mushrooms), but 
 if not perfectly fresh do not use them. 
 
 Mulligatawny Soup.—And while these sauces are progress¬ 
 ing prepare the two soups, beginning with the mulligatawny ; cut 
 up two onions, one head of celery (the white part) and the yellow 
 part of one large carrot; place these in a stew pan with a good slice 
 of ham cut up, and about half-a-pound of butter, and fry over the 
 fire till nice and brown, then add three tablespoonsful of curry 
 
velout£ and bechemelle sauce. 
 
 13 
 
 powder, and four tablespoonsful of the best flour; mix well to¬ 
 gether, and then add a little at a time of your other white stock till 
 you have mixed five pints, and let this also slowly boil for about 
 one hour, taking care to remove the butter when it rises ; and while 
 it is progressing prepare the Jardiniere Soup as follows :— 
 
 Consomme a la Jardiniere. —And now critically look at your 
 brown gravy, and if quite clear, or, in better words, brilliant, markoff 
 two quarts of the same when boiling into a soup bain-marie, taking 
 care the soup bain-marie is quite dry, and place in the larder, leaving 
 the cover partly open ; adding the vegetables on the day of dinner, and 
 should it be not brilliant, pass through a sausage machine 2lbs. of 
 gravy beef, free from fat; pass twice and mix it with a pint of water, 
 and mix this with the stock when only warm, and slowly bring to 
 the boil, and all will be right. 
 
 Veloute and Bechemelle Sauce. —And now return to your 
 white and brown sauce, or, as the French call these two foundation 
 sauces, espagnol and veloute. Remove the butter, which has risen 
 to the top, into a stew-pan, with a little water in it, also any scum 
 that might show ; and take the white sauce first, and reduce it over 
 a sharp or hot part of the hot plate, or over a charcoal stove, if 
 you have one, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it is of proper 
 consistency, which should be that of double cream—(strain oft' then 
 one pint into a kitchen pan, and place aside as veloute, which will 
 be needed for special sauces yet to be treated of), and now add to 
 the remainder about one pint of double cream and a few fresh 
 mushrooms, if possible, and boil well together for a few minutes, 
 stirring with a wooden spoon, and when you are certain it is of 
 the right consistency pass it through a taminy cloth into a clean 
 kitchen pan, nice and dry, and let an assistant stir the same with 
 a wooden spoon for a little time to drive out the steam. Now the 
 French name for this sauce is Bechemelle, but we simply call it 
 white sauce. 
 
 Espagnol Sauce.—And now examine your brown sauce par¬ 
 ticularly as to consistency, and remove any little scum that has 
 risen, and if it shows clean-looking and velvety, and not too thick, 
 
14 
 
 calf’s foot jelly. 
 
 pass it through a clean tammy cloth ; and, having had it stirred 
 a short time, place these three sauces together in the larder, 
 which are the foundation sauces, and from which, with slight 
 additions, more or less, all the other sauces are generally made. 
 
 And now you should reduce the second stock into glaze, and as 
 there is no aspic jelly or supreme sauce on the Bill of Fare, these 
 articles will be, for the present, not proceeded with, but will be 
 described further on. 
 
 Calf’s Foot Jelly. — Bring out the calf’s foot stock from the 
 larder, the first stock. Be particular to remove, as far as possible, 
 with an iron spoon, the oil on the top ; and afterwards to wash 
 the same with warm water, so as to thoroughly remove every 
 particle or drop of oil, and to do this effectually wash it two or 
 three times over, so as to be quite sure on this point. And take 
 notice of the stiffness of your jelly stock, and if all right, that is 
 not too stiff, measure five pints, and place it in a four-quart 
 stew-pan, and place it on the corner of the hot-plate to become 
 warm, or rather lukewarm. Then peel, with a very sharp knife, 
 or better, scrape with a piece of broken glass, the zest from six 
 lemons, (taking care they are not musty) into a little syrup, then 
 cut them in two, splitting the pith in the centre with your knife, 
 and squeezing the juice through a tin sieve into the syrup; add 
 this to the warm stock, removing the same to the dresser, and 
 now sweeten it with a few spoonsful of powdered lump sugar. 
 Stir the sugar well in and taste it, and if nicely palatable, add 
 two cloves and a little cinnamon, and half a tumbler of sherry 
 and a wine glass of brandy. Then take seven fresh and clean eggs 
 (I mean with shells clean), crack and smell each one separately, 
 into a basin, adding the shells ; beat well together, and then add 
 a little stock, about half-a-pint at a time, till the eggs and stock 
 are well mixed together; then place on the hot-plate, and bring 
 slowly to the boil, stirring it to and fro with a clean wooden spoon 
 till it does boil, and then remove it to a cooler part of the hot-plate 
 for about ten minutes, where it cannot boil, but keep hot, and 
 thereby thoroughly set the eggs, and hence aid in the clarification 
 
FOUR ENTRIES FOR THE DINNER. 15 
 
 of the jelly. And be very particular with the jelly bag, that it is 
 scrupulously clean, rubbing the same in warm water yourself, so 
 as to judge. And let the pans into which the jelly is to run be 
 also very clean, taking the precaution to rub the same with a clean 
 napkin or soft cloth. Then pour about one pint into the jelly 
 bag (having hung up the same in the jelly box with a clean 
 pan under), and if this is found to run brilliantly through, you 
 will have no fear with the remainder; particularly so if you do 
 as above instructed, and take care when all your jelly is poured 
 into the bag, and it is running all right, to wrap a table cloth 
 round the jelly box to prevent the cold air acting on the jelly 
 bag, and thereby setting the jelly before it has run through ; and 
 when the jelly has run through the bag, wash two quart moulds 
 very clean, and wipe them dry with a cloth, and then place the 
 moulds in the screen, or at the mouth of the oven, to get quite dry; 
 and when they feel hot to the touch remove them, and fill 
 them with the jelly, and place them in the larder; taking care of 
 what jelly remains, as you may need it; and do not fill the 
 moulds quite full. 
 
 And now look at your Bill of Fare—a copy of which should be in 
 the kitchen. You will find you have the mulligatawny soup to finish, 
 which do as follows: strain the soup through a hair sieve (to keep 
 back the residue of vegetables—the flavour from which being extrac¬ 
 ted by boiling is now of no use), and afterwards pass it through a 
 tammy cloth, and then, again place it on the fire to boil; skim it 
 nicely, and pass it into a soup bain-marie, and place it in the larder 
 with the cover partly open. 
 
 Then place one fowl, trussed for boiling, on the fire to braize for 
 half-an-hour, with about half-a-pint of second stock, and when done 
 place it alongside your mulligatawny soup, which it is to garnish on 
 the morrow; the gravy to be added to the mulligatawny and the 
 fowl when cut up. We will now describe how to prepare the 
 
 Four Entrees for the Dinner.— Two Quenelles of Pheasants 
 a la Toulouse.—Two Sautes of Fowl ala Indienne. —The pheasants 
 being prepared and drawn, remove the skin and cut off the flesh 
 
16 
 
 FOUR ENTRIES FOR THE DINNER. 
 
 from three fresh pheasants. It is needless to say that none should 
 be wasted, or used for the sauce, but the whole of the flesh both 
 from the legs and body, should be carefully removed and well 
 pounded in a mortar, and then rubbed through a wire sieve and placed 
 between two china plates. Then prepare the panada as follows :— 
 Place one gill of water and one gill of white stock in a two quart 
 stew-pan, and add to this two ounces of butter, and sift six ounces 
 of superfine flour through a wire sieve on to a sheet of paper, and 
 then place the stew-pan with the stock, water, and butter, on the fire ; 
 and when it boils stir in the flour and keep stirring for a couple of 
 minutes, the stew-pan being still on the hot plate; and if, by touching 
 it, you find it will not adhere or stick to the finger, then stir in three 
 yolks of eggs, and then stir again on the fire for a minute or two, 
 not to cook the eggs but to partly set them. After removing from 
 the fire place on some ice to become cold, and then place it on a 
 china plate and add the same quantity of panada to an equal 
 quantity of the flesh of the pheasants, and one quarter the quantity 
 of fresh butter; then place the whole of these articles into the 
 mortar, and let them be well pounded together (the more pounding 
 the better), then add two yolks of eggs and two whole eggs, a little 
 salt, and cayenne pepper, and pound these well together ; and, when 
 thoroughly amalgamated, roll a piece from this mixture in a dust of 
 flour, and place it in a tea cup of water that is boiling in a small 
 stew-pan, and after a few minutes boiling take it out and try its 
 consistence, and if nice and firm when you press it between the 
 finger and thumb, and when you cut it in two, you may judge it will 
 serve its purpose ; but if it shows the least inclination to be soft, add 
 two or three more }olks of eggs, and if it shows to be too firm add a 
 few spoonsful of cream, and all will be well. It should be a delicate 
 but compact body; and now make it into shapes as follows: obtain 
 two silver tablespoons, and two sheets of foolscap paper, cut the last 
 in two, lengthways, and rub a little butter over each strip, then have 
 by jou or before you, two quarts of boiling water, and also a cheese 
 knife, and having placed the quenelle meat in a basin, place the same 
 on }oui left hand, and proceed as follows: dip one of your spoons 
 
FOUR ENTRIES FOR TFIE DINNER. 
 
 1 7 
 
 edgeways into the quenelle meat, keeping your spoon close to the 
 
 edge of the pan, pressing the same against it; then slip it upwards 
 
 quickly, and, putting your cheese knife into hot water, smooth over 
 
 what is in the spoon (taking pains to give it a good shape), then put 
 
 your other spoon in the water, and when hot, neatly lift out what is 
 
 in the full spoon with the empty spoon, and then place it on the strip 
 
 of buttered paper; there is no difficulty if you keep the water in 
 
 which you dip your spoon very hot . You will require twenty 
 
 quenelles of the same shape as the first one, and arrange them 
 
 neatly as you do them on your four strips of paper, all of which 
 
 should be buttered; and when you have laid them all out (and try 
 
 and make a couple over), then place the white of one egg on a plate, 
 
 and cut twenty thin slices from some whole truffles, about the 
 
 thickness of a thin sixpence, and then with a tin cutter, the size of a 
 
 fourpenny piece, cut twenty-two rounds from the sliced truffles; and 
 
 now with a fork beat the white of an egg for a minute, and dip your 
 
 middle finger of the right hand in this, and moisten the pointed end 
 
 of each quenelle with the white of egg, rubbing the finger round and 
 
 round a little, and then place on the round of truffle, pressing the 
 
 same lightly, so as to make it adhere and keep on, eve?i though it is 
 
 going into hot water. And when all have had the truffles fixed on 
 
 them, a six quart stew-pan half-full of boiling water, should be ready 
 
 on the stoves, and into this the strips of paper should be dipped, 
 
 holding the same by one end, so as to be able to withdraw the 
 
 paper when the quenelles have slipped off. And when all are in the 
 
 water let them remain in the same about ten minutes, or a little 
 
 longer, taking care the water does not boil, for if it did the quenelles 
 
 would not be of a good shape; when you think they are done, 
 
 remove them with a skimmer one or two at a time (observing them 
 
 closely to see if they are well done) on to a sieve, and when all are 
 
 drained, place them closely into a kitchen pan and pour over 
 
 enough boiling stock to cover them, keeping the part with 
 
 truffle downward, and then cut a round of paper to go over the 
 
 quenelles, leaving a margin of about aquarter-of-an-inch allround for 
 
 the steam to escape, and then place them in the larder. And after- 
 
 C 
 
18 
 
 saut£ of poulet a l’indienne. 
 
 wards chop up the pheasant bones, and place them in a stew-pan with 
 hardly sufficient water to cover them, and let boil gently for two hours, 
 so as to extract an essence from the same; when done, strain off and 
 place in the larder, and at a fitting time reduce this essence and 
 add it to the Bechemelle sauce to be used for the quenelles, thicken¬ 
 ing it with a bit of white roux before adding it to the Bechemelle. 
 
 Saute of Poulet a l’lndienne. —Take three young fowls of the 
 best quality, drawn, and ready for cutting up ; which do by holding 
 the fowl on its side, and then make an incision (drawing the leg to 
 you), round the same, and cut away what forms the leg and the 
 thigh, and then turn the fowl over and remove the other; then cut 
 evenly the piece from the right and left of the breast, in a straight 
 line with the pinion bone, cutting through to the breast-bone, and 
 then, slanting your knife under the flesh, remove the same. They 
 should be as far as possible of the same size, and the piece that is 
 left, forming the centre of the breast, should now be removed and 
 the back-bone put aside. And now cut off the leg-bone just below the 
 joint, and remove the thigh-bone and any sinews that may show, 
 and with the point of your small knife, tuck in the rough parts that 
 show round the leg-bone; and then make the same into a plump 
 little joint, like to a leg of mutton in shape. And now cut in two 
 pieces, crossways, the centre of the breast, and trim nicely from 
 any rough part, placing them on a saute pan, the skin part down¬ 
 ward ; the saute-pan should be large enough to take all three fowls 
 when cut up, and a little salad oil should be rubbed over the saute- 
 pan before placing the pieces of fowl therein, using sufficient oil to 
 prevent the fowl burning or sticking to the bottom, when frying. When 
 all are in the saute-pan, then place it on the hot plate to cook the 
 pieces of fowl. 1 hey should be fried of a nice gold colour, and should 
 be strictly attended to, and when of a good colour, turn each piece 
 over, and so finish them; but it is well, when of a nice colour, to 
 cover them over with a round of paper and place them in the oven 
 (seeing it is not too hot), to very slowly cook for about ten minutes ; 
 then remove them, and place them in a suitable size stewpan, and 
 put with them one pint of Espagnol sauce and a little gravy, and 
 
FAVORITES AU PARMESAN. 
 
 J 9 
 
 place on the fire to boil, and while doing so, chop up a little Indian 
 pickle rather fine, about one tablespoonful when chopped ,, and add 
 this to the fowls and sauce; also, two tablespoonfuls of Cook’s curry 
 paste, and two of Indian chutney ; mix these two last together, so 
 that they will readily amalgamate with the Espagnol sauce; let all 
 come to the boil, and continue to do so for five minutes, then place 
 in the larder with the cover partly open, being quite ready when 
 made hot for your dinner. 
 
 The trimmings of fpwl should be chopped up and placed on the 
 fire with some water to boil the same time as your pheasant bones, 
 taking care to nicely skim the same, and let boil slowly. And now 
 look to your glaze, being careful it does not burn; and, when you 
 see it pretty well reduced, place it in a smaller stewpan, and skim 
 it well, adding a little cold water now and then, to make the scum 
 rise ; and when about as thick as single cream, it should be passed 
 through a tammy cloth into a small basin and put in the larder. 
 
 Tongue, to Boil.—Place your tongue on the fire to boil; about 
 two hours and a half will cook it, and sometimes less. When it 
 feels rather soft to your finger and thumb you can judge it is done, 
 or nearly so. 
 
 Throat Sweetbreads, to Boil. —Before boiling, let them remain 
 about a couple of hours in lukewarm water—changing the water 
 three or four times ; and when they look white and free from blood¬ 
 stains they will do. Then place them in boiling water, and let them 
 keep boiling twenty minutes. Then place in cold water, and put 
 them in the larder. 
 
 Italian Macaroni, to Dress. —Place two quarts of water on 
 the hot-plate to boil with about two ounces of butter, and in this 
 place half-a-pound of maccaroni. Let slowly boil till quite tender; 
 about half-an-hour will cook it. When it is done you should be able 
 to readily smash it between the thumb and finger; and when at this 
 point, put it in cold water, and then in the larder. 
 
 Favorites au Parmesan.—Put three gills of stock in a stew-pan 
 (white stock), and to this three ounces of butter; and then place on 
 
 hot-plate to boil. Sift nine ounces of superfine flour through a sieve ; 
 
 C 2 
 
20 
 
 FAVORITES AU PARMESAN. 
 
 and when your stock boils stir in the flour rapidly; keep stirring on 
 the hot-plate for a couple of minutes to cook the flour, and when you 
 find it will not stick to your finger when you touch it, then stir in two 
 whole eggs and four yolks ; stir these in one at a time till all are 
 used, and stir again on the fire for a short time, not to cook the eggs, 
 but to partly set them ; then remove from the fire, and divide this 
 mixture, leaving one-half in the stewpan, and place the other on a 
 plate, with a round of buttered paper over the same, then place in 
 the cool till needed. Now chop up two ounces of lean cooked ham, 
 and grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and add these to the 
 mixture in your stewpan ; also two teaspoonsful of mixed mustard 
 and a little cayenne pepper. Stir well together, and then take a 
 small copper baking sheet, butter the same, and place on it a sheet 
 of paper cut to fit it; on this spread your mixture for your favorites. 
 It should be a quarter-of-an-inch thick; and the mixture should be 
 evenly spread to this thickness, when another sheet of paper should 
 be cut, buttered, and placed on it, and then put in the larder till to¬ 
 morrow, when it should be finished as follows : have the half of a 
 half-quartern loaf made into very fine crumbs; then take a tin cutter 
 about the size of a bronze penny and, dipping the same in very 
 hot water, cut out the favorites, and place them on a dish, over which 
 has been thrown a few of your fine crumbs. When you have cut out 
 twenty-four, the number required, dip them into the fine crumbs, 
 patting each one between your hands as you do this, to make the 
 crumbs adhere ; after which, pat them with your knife, and make 
 them into a nice round shape ; then dip them, one at a time, into 
 three whole eggs and two yolks, adding a little salt, and beat them 
 up with a small whisk; as you dip them into this, drain off as much 
 of the egg as possible, and then place them in the bread crumbs, 
 patting them with the hands to make the same adhere. They should 
 then be made nice and round, and marked off on a dish, with crumbs 
 under them and a sheet of paper over them, and put in the larder 
 till required for use. They are finished by frying them in clean hogs’ 
 lard, the same as you would a fritter, when a little grated Parmesan 
 should be sprinkled upon them, and then they should be sala- 
 
QUENELLE OF VEAL. 
 
 21 
 
 raandered. Dish on silver plates with papers on them (twelve on a 
 plate), and send very hot to table. Keep the same at the mouth of 
 the oven till they are needed. 
 
 Garniture for Saute” of Fowl.—Saute two of the fillets of fowl 
 which you have in the larder, or place them on a small saute-pan, 
 With a little butter rubbed over it; place the fillets of fowl on this, 
 and cover with a round of buttered paper. When firm to the touch 
 they will be done; be very particular not to overdress them. Place 
 to get cold, and, while doing so, cut up a few slices of tongue into 
 small dice shapes, also two truffles and four mushrooms. When 
 the two fillets are cold, split them in two, lengthways, and cut them 
 in dice also; then take the half of pate choux paste you placed on a 
 plate to get cold. Mix the above ingredients cut into dice with this 
 paste, adding a little cayenne pepper, and mould this into small balls 
 about one half-inch in diameter. The way to do this is to sprinkle a 
 few fine bread crumbs on the slab in the pastry, and then to roll out 
 some of the mixture and cut it into the size you need, and, with the 
 aid of the bread crumbs, make them into small balls; then dip them 
 into eggs, the same as you did for the favorites, and then again into 
 the bread crumbs, and again make them into shape. Twenty-four 
 will be all you need, or twenty would do. Mark them off in the 
 same manner as the favorites. When needed, or a little before, fry 
 them in clean lard, taking care it is not too hot. After your saute of 
 fowl is dished and sauced, they should be placed round the same 
 just before serving. This forms an excellent garniture for any kind 
 of scollops, or small birds, cut up such as salmi of partridges, 
 snipes, &c. 
 
 Quenelle of Veal.—Cut the slice of veal which you have by you 
 into long strips, and scrape with a knife the flesh from the sinewy 
 parts, and then take the other two fillets of fowl, and cut these in 
 two lengthways, and scrape these also; that is to say, the flesh from 
 the skin; then put them both together and pound them well in the 
 mortar, and rub them through a wire sieve ; then make half-a-pint 
 of pate-choux panada, the same as for the quenelles of pheasants 
 {page io), and when cold, take the same quantity of panada as you 
 
22 
 
 THE SPECIAL SAUCES FOR DINNER. 
 
 have of fowl and veal, and about one-fourth of butter; pound these 
 well together in the marble mortar, adding salt and cayenne pepper, 
 one whole egg and three yolks. Add one whole egg and one yolk 
 first, and mix these well in, pounding the whole mixture well together, 
 and be sure the quenelle will be all the better at this point the more 
 labour that is given, and after a short time, add the other two yelks, 
 stirring the same well into the mixture ; and now, roll a piece in a 
 little flour, about the size of a small cork, and place the same 
 in boiling water (about one gill in a small stew pan); let this simmer 
 a few minutes, and then try it between the thumb and finger, and if 
 nice and firm and compact, it will do ; if not, add another whole 
 egg, with another yolk of egg, if necessary ; and, as this is for what 
 is termed garniture, it must be nice and firm. 
 
 When finished, chop three truffles very small, and mix into half of 
 the same ; and make this into shapes the size of marbles, and oblong 
 pieces, in the shape of corks, to match ; and the best place to do this 
 is in the pastry, throwing a dust of flour on the slab and rolling out 
 a strip, and cutting it into the sizes you need, then rolling them into 
 shapes and placing on a hair sieve, and, when finished, cook them in 
 about one pint of boiling water, letting them simmer very gently till 
 they feel quite firm, then place them in a stewpan, pan, or bain- 
 marie, and pour over them a little boiling stock, and mark off in the 
 larder, and the same with the remainder of the quenelle, which you 
 will need when dishing up your quenelles of pheasants. 
 
 And now look to your throat sweetbreads and the tongue, placing 
 them to get cold as soon as possible. And look to your fowl bones 
 and pheasant bones, and let them continue to gently boil. 
 
 The Special Sauces for Dinner.— And now, reading through 
 your Bill of Fare, you will find the following is the quantity needed, 
 and the list:— 
 
 Oyster sauce for cod-fish, one pint. 
 
 Tomato sauce for filets of soles, one pint. 
 
 loulouse ragout for quenelles of pheasants, one pint. 
 
 Bechemelle sauce for quenelles of pheasants, iA- pints. 
 
 Milanaise ragout for turkey, three pints. 
 
TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 23 
 
 Bechemelle sauce for turkey, one quart. 
 
 Best gravy for haunch of mutton, half pint. 
 
 Butter sauce for sea kale, half pint. 
 
 Apricot sauce for baba, 1^ pints. 
 
 Sauce for pudding a la Princess, one pint. 
 
 Bigarade sauce for wild ducks, half pint. 
 
 Financiere sauce for roast partridges, half pint. 
 
 And now bring out your Espagnol sauce, also the Bechemelle and 
 Veloute, and proceed as follows :— 
 
 Oyster Sauce.—Place the oysters in a stew-pan to boil for five 
 minutes, then remove them, and mix four good tablespoonfuls ol 
 flour with about half-pint of water, mix it smooth, and strain it into 
 a small pan. Then place a little less than one pint of milk in a 
 quart stew-pan to boil; when it does, thicken it with about half 
 your flour and water and stir till it boils, which let it do for a couple 
 of minutes; then strain into this the liquor from the oysters, and 
 about two ounces of butter and a little double cream, cayenne pepper, 
 and a little salt; mix these nicely into the sauce. And now be 
 particular about the consistency of your sauce, which should be about 
 the same as good double cream, and if not so add a little more flour 
 and water, and stir till nearly boiling; then wash your oysters in a 
 little cold water, and see there is none of the broken shells which 
 happens sometimes when opening them ; trim off a part of the 
 beard (the dark part) and then dry them on a cloth and place them in 
 the sauce, and if you have a set of bain-maries in the kitchen place 
 the sauce in one of them, and mark it off. 
 
 Butter Sauce.—Place three parts of a pint of water to boil on 
 the hot-plate; when it does so, thicken with the remainder of your 
 flour and water, and let boil two minutes while stirring, then 
 beat into this about two ounces of butter and strain into a bain- 
 marie, and mark it off. 
 
 Tomato Sauce. For fillets of soles .—Open one pint can of 
 preserved tomatoes, and then cut up three shalots into thin slices, 
 add one gill of malt vinegar to these, when placed in a stew-pan, 
 also half-a-pint of second stock and a piece of glaze about the size 
 
24 
 
 MILANAISE RAGOUT FOR TURKEY. 
 
 of a walnut, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Let simmer gently for 
 half-an-hour, or till the moisture is reduced one half, rub it through 
 a hair sieve ; then place the puree back in stew-pan with half-a-pint 
 of Veloute sauce, bring to the boil, and then add one tablespoonful 
 of anchovy and a little cayenne pepper and salt, then taste it, and if 
 to your palate, place in a bain-marie, and mark it off alongside your 
 other marked sauces, which should be on your kitchen dresser for 
 the present. 
 
 Toulouse Ragout, for quenelles of pheasant .—Open the bottle 
 of truffles and the two cans of mushrooms, also the bottle of ragout; 
 place the latter where it will melt the stock with the same, and then 
 empty into a pan ; the same with the two tins of champignons, and 
 also the truffles. And now cut up six truffles in very thin slices, and 
 to these add the whole of the ragout from the bottle, also one can of 
 mushrooms (place on a plate as you do them) with the whole of the 
 quenelles; and to these should be added the two throat sweetbreads, 
 but they should be quite cold before being cut, and can be added on 
 the day of the dinner. And now place half-pint of second stock in a 
 stew-pan to boil, and when it does so, place in it the ragout Toulouse 
 which you have just prepared ; let boil gently for a couple of minutes, 
 then place in a bain-marie, and mark off with the others; also one 
 pint of Bechemelle sauce, which will be for the same, with the 
 essence of the pheasant-bones added to it. 
 
 Milanaise Ragout for Turkey.— Cut up the maccaroni in pieces, 
 one inch long, and as near as possible of the same size ; and place 
 them on a dish or in a pan ; add to these the other can of mush¬ 
 rooms, then cut in slices about as thick as a shilling the remainder 
 of the truffles, and these into shreds, after the manner of Julienne 
 roots, but thicker; and add these to the maccaroni, and to these, 
 about the same size, about one-half of the tongue, the pointed end ; 
 but as you cannot cut this till thoroughly cold, it can be added on 
 the day of the dinner, if not ready. And now boil in about half a 
 pint of stock what you have prepared, let boil a few minutes, and 
 then place it in a bain-marie and mark it off. Mark off also the 
 whole of the remainder of the Bechemelle sauce, which will be for the 
 
PARTICULARS REGARDING THE DINNER. 25 
 
 turkey, and you will want about one quart, and if you have not quite 
 sufficient, add the rest of the Veloute to the bechemelle. 
 
 Best Gravy for Saddle of Mutton. —Mark off about half a 
 pint of the best gravy which you have in reserve. 
 
 Sauce for Roast Partridges. —Add one wine glass of sherry 
 and half a pint of Espagnol, and a little of the mushroom juice, and 
 about one gill of the stock from the chicken bones ; let boil and strain 
 same, and mark off with the others. 
 
 Bigarade Sauce for Wild Ducks. —Strain off the remainder 
 of the stock from the chicken bones, and take about one gill of this 
 and add it to one half-pint of Espagnol, and add to these the rind of 
 two Seville oranges, free from any white pith ; cut these in shreds as 
 fine as Julienne roots, and, when done, blanch or boil them in water 
 for a couple of minutes, then strain and add them to the brown sauce ; 
 add also the juice from the two oranges, and let all boil together for 
 a few minutes ; add a little salt and cayenne pepper, skim and 
 mark off. 
 
 Apricot Sauce for Baba.' —Place one pint apricot puree on the 
 fire with half-a-pound of powdered sugar, one gill of water, and the 
 same of brandy, let come to the boil, and skim it well, then mark 
 it off. 
 
 Orange Sauce for Pudding a la Duchesse. —Rub four oranges 
 on a piece of lump sugar to extract the zest, scrape off the same, 
 and add to this half-a-pound of lump sugar and half-a-pint of water, 
 and the juice of the four oranges, let it nearly come to the boil and 
 stir in two tablespoonfuls of corn-flour dissolved in a wine glass of 
 water; add about a gill of your orange syrup to the mixed corn¬ 
 flour, first of all, then add this to the larger quantity, and stir till it 
 comes to the boil. Skim, and then mark off, adding one glass of 
 CuraQoa. 
 
 Particulars regarding the Dinner. —And now, the whole of 
 the soups and sauces being ready, I shall suppose you have a bain- 
 marie case, and the usual fittings ; and it is a wise thing to write 
 the names on slips of foolscap of uniform size, and write on these 
 the names of all your sauces, soups, and ragouts; and by writing in 
 
2 6 
 
 BABA A LA POLONAISE. 
 
 the centre of these slips, and cutting a slit above and below the 
 writing, they will slip over the handle of each bain-marie, and the 
 name of each show readily to your notice. And now, if you have 
 the bain-marie case, arrange your sauces in a systematic manner 
 in the same, and place it in the larder. And I will here state that 
 it is almost impossible to serve a dinner properly, and to a cook s 
 satisfaction, without a good bain-marie case, and its fittings com¬ 
 plete ; and, if without it, one should be hired at a confectioner s or 
 at a copper-smith’s for the occasion, when a good dinner is about to 
 be served ; and, if there is no refrigerator, there should always be 
 a little rough ice in the larder, and some plan or arrangement made 
 where a few things can be kept on ice, either in a tub or turbot 
 kettle. Of course, in the month of January, a refrigerator is not 
 so much needed as in the warmer months ; but when there are, 
 as I am well aware, so many bad larders for keeping things, a 
 good refrigerator is as necessary there as a good bain-marie case 
 with fittings is in the kitchen. 
 
 The Day of the Dinner. —By looking at the Bill of Fare, 
 there will be seen a few more dishes to prepare—namely, the 
 Bavaroise a la Yanille and the pudding a la Princess, also the Baba 
 a la Polonaise ; and we will begin with the last. 
 
 Baba a la Polonaise.—Weigh i lb. of flour, io ozs. of fresh 
 butter, 8 whole eggs, and 4 yolks of eggs, |lb. of currants, and £lb* 
 of sultanas, ready for use, with one cap of orange-peel cut very fine, 
 and one-fourth of a cap of citron the same, and two ounces of 
 powdered sugar; and now dissolve 2 ozs. of very fresh German yeast 
 in half-a-tea cup of warm milk; when dissolved stir in sufficient of 
 the ilb. of flour to make the sponge about as thick as double cream ; 
 then let it slowly rise, and having selected the Baba mould, proceed 
 at once to rub a little clean hogs’ lard over the inside, and stand the 
 same at the mouth of the oven for a time to get rather hot. And 
 you also need some clarified butter, which melt by standing on the 
 corner of the hot-plate a short time (about 6 ozs. will be ample), and 
 when melted skim off the scum, and when you see the pure butter, 
 remove this very carefully into a small stew-pan, leaving the 
 
BABA A LA POLONAISE. 
 
 2/ 
 
 sediment—for what you really need is the pure butter; and with a 
 clean, soft cloth drain the lard from the Baba mould, and well rub it 
 with the cloth so as to be sure it is very clean ; then with a butter¬ 
 brush work your clarified butter till it shows creamy, and with this 
 butter your baba mould—it should be well and thickly buttered. And 
 now look to your yeast, and the time for using it is when the air 
 globules begin to burst; and meantime make the butterfor the baba 
 rather soft, and placing the remainder of the flour in a four-quart 
 kitchen basin, rub the butter into the same; and having carefully 
 parted and cracked all your eggs (smelling each one to test them), 
 add them to the flour and butter, about three at a time, beating the 
 batter over and over with your hand till all the eggs have been used, 
 and then keep beating still with your hand for about five minutes, 
 then put your sponge over the surface of the batter and slowly and 
 thoroughly blend the same with the batter; then chemise the mould 
 (the baba mould), by coating and causing to adhere a portion 
 of this batter, and let it be as thinly coated as possible, and if the 
 mould has a pipe in it all the better; then mix in all the fruit and 
 peel, and do this as lightly as possible, after which place the same 
 in the mould, and finally butter a band of paper (well buttered), and 
 tie this round the plain band of the baba mould ; then stand it aside 
 in rather a warm place, and free from a cold current of air, and when 
 nicely risen to about three times its original size, bake it in an oven 
 of pretty good heat, with a sheet of paper folded several times for 
 the mould to stand on. It will take nearly an hour to bake ; and to 
 tell if it is quite done, place a thin wooden skewer down the centre, 
 and if this comes away dry it is done, and if moist with batter 
 adhering it is not done, and it must remain in the oven till well 
 baked; and when done it is well to let it remain a few minutes before 
 turning it out. Carefully remove the band of paper when you do, 
 and, taking the baba, mould in your rubber; turn the mould round, 
 tapping it on the edge of the dresser as you do so, and seeing it is 
 ready to leave the mould and is loose before you turn it out; tie a 
 band of paper round the bottom part to prevent it splitting, and all 
 will be well. 
 
28 
 
 BAVAROISE A LA VANILLE. 
 
 Now, in reference to these light yeast cakes, I am sure that to 
 make and bake them properly, two things require special attention. 
 The first is fresh German yeast ; the second, to prepare and butter 
 the mould as herein described. 
 
 Before serving the baba, place it in the screen about one hour 
 before dinner, to get hot. For sauce, see list of sauces. 
 
 Bavaroise a la Vanille. — Bring out the remainder of the calf’s 
 foot jelly, and, while it is melting, blanch a dozen pistachio nuts, 
 split them, and cut them in fine shreds ; then take two quart jelly 
 moulds, see they are very clean, and then place in each a spoonful of 
 liquid jelly, or two spoonsful; sprinkle the shred pistachioes over the 
 bottom, half in each, and place the moulds in the larder for the jelly 
 to set. Now make one pint of milk into a custard, using four whole 
 eggs and two yolks; beat the eggs and yolks and two spoonsful of 
 powdered sugar; and, when the milk boils, add about one gill at a 
 time, beating the eggs rapidly as you add it. When all the milk is 
 mixed with the eggs, place the same in a stew-pan, and stir it with a 
 wooden spoon till it begins to thicken ; then stir rapidly, and draw 
 it from the fire, examine it closely, still stirring, and when thickened 
 pour it into another cool vessel, still stirring rapidly; add a bit of 
 butter, or a little cream, to prevent it from curdling, and when the 
 steam has partly gone out of it, it will do. Then put in soak two 
 ounces of the best pied de veau gelatine in cold water, and, while 
 soaking,whisk a pint and a-half of very fresh cream of the best quality, 
 and when whisked firm, place it on a hair sieve; scrape the seeds 
 from two sticks of vanille, rub these together with two spoonsful 
 of powdered sugar, and add this to the custard. Now add a little 
 cochineal to about one gill of liquid (but not warm) jelly; pour this 
 into the two jelly moulds, partly ornamented, placing half in each, 
 and leave them still in the larder, or on a little ice, to become firmly 
 set. Now place one gill of boiling water in a stew-pan, and in this 
 the gelatine in soak; stir with wooden spoon till dissolved and boil¬ 
 ing, when remove the same; and now prepare to mix and fill in the 
 moulds the two Bavaroises, but first be certain the jelly in the moulds 
 is quite set; if so, bring the two moulds on to the dresser, also the 
 
PUDDING A LA DUCHESSE. 
 
 2 9 
 
 custard and whisked cream, and, having by you a three-quart stew- 
 pan or kitchen pan, pour the hot gelatine into the custard, whisking 
 it well with the whisk, so as to well mix in the vanille ; then add the 
 whole of the whisked cream to the custard, taking care you have a 
 utensil large enough, and that the custard and cream are well mixed, 
 and, let me add, the whisk is the best thing to mix it with. When 
 they are ready, fill your moulds as quickly as possible, letting one of 
 your assistants be tapping the moulds as you fill them, so as to show 
 smooth when turned out. 
 
 And note—Should your mixture be inclined to set too soon, place 
 the utensil containing the same on the hot-plate, for a few minutes, 
 and all will soon be right, with a little attention; and when they are 
 filled in, place them by the jellies ; also the jelly you have left. 
 
 Pudding a la Duchesse. —Take a plain mould, an oval one is 
 the best, see that it is very clean, butter it well with creamed butter, 
 the same as the baba mould, and cut a piece of foolscap paper to 
 fit the inside ; and when placed in the mould, butter the paper also, 
 and in the centre form a star with leaves cut from citron or 
 angelica, and some dried cherries ; and now cut eight sponge cakes 
 in two, and spread a little apricot jam between them, then cut them 
 crosswise in four pieces, arrange these in layers, and over these 
 sprinkle a few cherries, then a few ratifias, then another layer of 
 sponge cakes, and so on, till the mould is nearly full; then crack 
 six eggs, add to these two tablespoonfuls of powdered lump sugar, 
 add a pint-and-a-half of milk, beat well together and strain through 
 a pointed sieve, when grate in the same one nutmeg and one 
 lemon ; fold a sheet of paper several times, and place this in a 
 stew-pan that will hold the pudding-mould, and with a cover that 
 will well fit; place the pudding in the stew-pan, and when ready 
 to put it on the fire to cook, pour the raw custard in the pudding 
 mould, screw a piece of paper over the mould, and place it back 
 in the stew-pan ; place round the mould enough hot water to rise 
 about two inches up the side of the mould, and let it slowly simmer 
 three-quarters of an hour constantly; when quite done, it will feel 
 quite firm to the touch, and should, while cooking be attended 
 
30 
 
 SLICES OF COD FISH. 
 
 to. When sending to table, the orange sauce should be poured 
 over it; and, finally, be attentive to see that the pudding is kept 
 boiling, and that it does not boil dry, and a little more water is 
 added if needed. 
 
 Fritter Batter. —Take one pound of superfine flour, pour over 
 this one gill of salad oil, add one yolk of an egg, and add about half- 
 a-pint of light coloured ale ; mix gently together in the beginning, 
 and when you see it is about the right consistency and will mark the 
 point of your finger smoothly without running off, it should then be 
 mixed well together so as thoroughly to amalgamate or blend 
 together the ingredients of which it is composed; it is best without 
 any whisked whites of egg. It is a most excellent batter, and will 
 serve for every purpose, both for sweet dishes and for savoury. You 
 can make it several hours before using it, or at the last moment. 
 
 Fillets of Soles en Fritot. —Trim the filets of soles about the 
 same size ; place the then inside upward, on a dish, and sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt lightly over them, and cover with a sheet of 
 buttered paper. They should be fried in clean hogs’ lard, taking 
 care to let a portion of the batter run off as you dip them, so as not 
 to have too much batter about them when fried; keep them on a 
 wire sieve in or near your dripping pan, and do not dish them till 
 needed; and then crossways in a pile, and as lightly as possible, 
 shaking a little salt over them. They should be fried a nice brown 
 colour. 
 
 Slices of Cod Fish.—Place the slices of cod fish on a saute plate, 
 with half-a-pint of water under them ; see that they are skewered and 
 tied up tightly ; place a small piece of butter on each slice, and a round 
 of buttered paper over them, and cook in the oven, which should be 
 of good heat. Place in the oven half-an-hour before dinner, taking 
 caie to remove the string and skewers before serving. You can 
 leadily tell when they are done, as the flesh will leave the bone. 
 When dished, the liquor under them should be strained and reduced 
 to about one gill, which should be poured over the slices of fish 
 before serving; garnish with a little parsley the last thing, and 
 directly the slices are dished cover them with a wet napkin and keep 
 
THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 31 
 
 hot in screen or at the mouth of the oven, or beside the hot-plate. 
 And the same with the fillets of soles. And the same can be said 
 of every dish—they should be sent to table hot. Two boats of oyster 
 sauce should be sent to table with the cod fish. 
 
 Braized Turkey. —Cut the prime part of the tongue into half-inch 
 dice, and mix this with your 2 lbs. of sausage-meat; then take out 
 the breast bone of the turkey, cutting off the part of neck remaining, 
 and adding two yolks of eggs to the sausage-meat. And seeing your 
 turkey has been trussed for braizing, put the sausage-meat in where 
 you took out the breast bone, and bring the skin where the neck was 
 cut off right over to the back of the turkey, and run a small skewer 
 in this so as to prevent the sausage-meat coming out. Then place 
 it in an oval braizing kettle, and let it boil one hour. About one quart 
 of water will be sufficient to braize the turkey in, with a double 
 handful of mixed vegetables. Let it boil very gently, adding a little 
 more water if needed. 
 
 And slowly roast the saddle of mutton for two hours. 
 
 And the wild ducks three-quarters of an hour; these should go 
 to table slightly under-done ; and the partridges will take about 
 half-an-hour to roast them. 
 
 The Vegetables. —Now finally see that your vegetables are all 
 prepared and ready for cooking, also, the potatoes cut for serving 
 with the second course (roast). They should be cut about the size 
 and shape of quarters of oranges, and then peel off the sharp edges ; 
 they should be fried in about three tablespoons full of clarified butter, 
 in a suitable size saute-pan—and will take about twenty minutes 
 to dress, and should be constantly looked to, and tossed over and 
 over, till they become of a nice gold colour; and when done, sprinkle 
 a little salt over them, and they should be dished on two dishes in a 
 pile with croutons of bread round them. And the spinach should 
 be boiled off in the afternoon, and finished ready for making hot ; 
 and the preserved peas should be taken out of the tin canisters and 
 thrown into boiling water and boiled for two minutes, then strained 
 off, and a piece of butter put with them, and placed ready for making 
 hot; and boil off the cauliflowers and Brussel sprouts two hours 
 
32 
 
 DISHING THE QUENELLES. 
 
 before dinner, and place on a sieve ready for making hot; and be 
 particular not to boil your plain-boiled potatoes; in fact, not to put 
 them on the fire till twenty minutes before the dinner hour; and 
 directly they are done they ought, so to speak, to be sent to 
 table. 
 
 Particulars to be attended to in sending the Dinner away. 
 —Two hours before the time for sending the dinner, place the bain- 
 marie case, containing all the sauces, on the hot plate, and let it be 
 about half-full of water; the two soups should also be placed with 
 sauces, cutting up the remaining fowl in neat pieces, and placing it 
 in the mulligatawny soup, and half-a-pound of rice boiled in four quarts 
 of water, with a little salt; boil till tender, and then strain it on a 
 hair sieve, and pour about four quarts of clean hot water over the 
 rice; and when it has well drained, stand it on a dish with a wet cloth 
 over it, till you need it, placing the same in the screen. Thenboi 
 for a couple of minutes one pint can of jardiniere roots, and strain 
 them and put them in the gravy soup. And make the quenelles and 
 saute of fowl hot and ready for dishing. And now see that the dishing- 
 up cloth is on the table, and all your silver dishes getting hot and 
 ready for use, as well as your sauce boats and soup tureen. 
 
 Dishing the Quenelles.—And while things are all progressing, 
 with the quenelle meat that you have left, make two borders on your 
 entree dishes for the quenelles to be dished upon—the same asfor 
 cutlets ; and with an iron tablespoon make a sort of half-circle in the 
 middle of the border, so as to hold the quenelles ; then dry the same, 
 or set this quenelle in the oven ; and when nicely firm remove the 
 dishes. Now, let me observe, that when the quenelles are dished on 
 the border, they should show exactly in the centre of the entree 
 dish, and if not so, they will not look well; and now with a dishing- 
 up cloth beside you, drain the quenelles on this, if they are hot, and 
 dish them, the truffle end being at the top ; they should neatly overlap 
 each other like cutlets, and if any have gone out of shape, with your 
 small knife trim the same, and make them uniform; and when both 
 are dished, cover them and place them in the hottest part of the 
 screen (finishing the same shortly). 
 
DISHING THE SAUTE OF FOWL. 
 
 33 
 
 Dishing the Saute ofFowl. —You have eighteen pieces of 
 fowl, allowing nine pieces for each dish. Place the three legs first, 
 with the bone of each pointing to you ; then place the three pieces 
 of the breast between these, but upon them, and on the top the three 
 side pieces, with the pinion-bone in them. Dish them firmly, so 
 that they will keep in their places. Then cover, and place next the 
 quenelles to be finished in good time. They should get nicely hot 
 in the screen. 
 
 And now, the entrees being dished, it is as well to read through the 
 Bill of Fare critically, and see if anything has been unattended to. 
 Also to see if your fires are all right, and your sauces and ragouts 
 are getting nicely hot; also the hogs’ lard, for frying, and if the 
 saddle of mutton is roasting properly; the turkey, too, if that is 
 brazing as it should. And you will require about a gill of Parmesan 
 cheese grated, and the tongue cut in inch strips (these two last) 
 for the Milanaise ragout, and a few croutons to be cut for your pota¬ 
 toes. The kitchen-maid can do these last little jobs. Let the 
 croutons be cut as round and as big as a two-shilling-piece, but a 
 little thicker. About twenty-four pieces is what you will need, and 
 they should be stuck on two small oval silver dishes. When they 
 have been fried of a light brown colour, a little flour, mixed with the 
 white of an egg, rather stiff, will fix them on the dishes, when place 
 them in the oven for a few minutes to fix them firmly, and then 
 place them in the screen to dry. 
 
 And now we will suppose the time to be seven o’clock. So try the 
 turkey, and, if done, remove the same from the hot plate. If you put 
 your fork in the leg and no red gravy shows, be sure it will do. And 
 now fill up your pudding with the prepared custard, and screw some 
 paper round the top, and put about one quart of water round it, and 
 let it boil at once for three-quarters of an hour, and place the Baba 
 to get hot in the screen, and if there is a Salamander place it in the 
 range fire to get hot. 
 
 And then fry off your fillets of soles, also the Favorites an Par¬ 
 mesan, and garnish of fowl, for your saute of fowls, and see that the fat 
 
 is quite hot before you commence, which you can tell by sprinkling 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 THE ENTRIES. 
 
 a few drops of water in the same, and if it makes a crackling noise 
 it is ready; or try it by frying a piece of bread in it, and if it browns 
 it is ready. And now dip each filet into the batter and then into 
 the fat; fry six at a time, and do not have too much batter on them, 
 and dust a little flour over the filets, on each side, before dipping 
 them into the batter. They should be placed on a wire sieve as 
 they are cooked, and fried of a light brown colour, and placed where 
 they will keep nice and hot. Then fry the cheese favorites, about 
 eight at a time, placing each lot in a frying basket, and in this fry them 
 of a light gold colour; and when all are fried, arrange in the basket 
 to keep hot, and then fry the small ones half at a time. Fry these in 
 the same fat, and when done place them on another sieve. 
 
 The Cod Fish. —And now look to your cod; and, if done, keep 
 it hot till ready to serve. 
 
 The Soups.—See that they are quite hot, even to boiling. And 
 look to the rice, pouring some boiling water over the same to loosen 
 it; and make it dish up well, when drained and dry; about two full 
 plates to be served with the soup. 
 
 Note. — A bell should ring as each course is required ., and two persons 
 he in attendance to take it away. 
 
 And garnish the quenelles, with the Toulouse ragout in the centre, 
 first straining the same ; and looking to the Indienne sauce and the 
 Bechemelle, seeing that both are hot, and quite ready to serve ; also that 
 the two throat-breads are added to the ragout. And lo ! it is eight 
 o’clock, and the dinner is called, and the soup is instantly served, and 
 the rice. 
 
 The Fish.—And the fish is dished as already described. The 
 filets of soles having the tomato sauce poured round them, and the 
 cod fish dished on a drainer; the oyster sauce served in two boats. 
 Both fish to go together. 
 
 The Entrees.—Then finish the entrees, masking the quenelles 
 with the bechemelle sauce, with a little over the ragout, and the saute 
 of fowl with the Indienne sauce, with the small favorites round them ; 
 both the sauces to be very hot. 
 
 And now let the vegetables be looked to, and be ready, and dished. 
 
THE JELLIES AND CREAMS. 
 
 35 
 
 The Removes. —Dish the saddle and the turkey, the ragout for 
 the latter should be strained, and placed in a stew-pan, and a little 
 grated parmesan sprinkled over it; also the remainder of the tongue, and 
 over this half the Bechemelle sauce, let it come to the boil, then place it 
 round the turkey, and pour the remainder over the same ; and send 
 some best gravy round the saddle; send, when needed, the vege¬ 
 tables, all but the saute of potatoes; also, red currant jelly in a boat. 
 And now look to your second course, roast, and let them be dished, and 
 see that their sauces are ready; the bigarade for the wild ducks, and 
 plain financiere for the roast partridges. 
 
 Removes of Roast. —And look to your pudding a la Duchesse. 
 Take it out of the stew-pan and let it stand on the dresser a few minutes. 
 
 Meantime, prepare the baba, cut the bottom off, so as it will absorb 
 the sauce, and then cut it in two, still letting each half absorb some of 
 the sauce, then dish it up, putting each half together, and pouring the 
 remains of the sauce round it. And turn out the pudding, removing 
 the paper, and pouring the sauce over it. They should both be served 
 together. 
 
 The Jellies and Creams. —Then turn out your two creams and 
 two jellies, which follow' the removes. These also should be sent away 
 together; they are dipped in warm water for a minute, then dried, 
 and turned out on the dish, one at a time. They can all be sent away 
 together, and finally your two plates of favorites au parmesan; these 
 should be spread out on a baking-sheet and a little parmesan sprinkled 
 over them ; w r hen they should be salamandered and dished on ornamental 
 papers, and sent very hot to table, when the dinner is ended; as it is 
 not usual to give ices in the cold months of winter. 
 
 The Bill of Fare will be found on the first page of each number; 
 also, the requisition list of all things required; and, it is w r ell to observe, 
 that the head kitchen-maid should dress the vegetables; also, the roasts, 
 subject, of course, to the direction of the cook. 
 
 D 2 
 
3<5 
 
 LIST OF DISHES FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 Containing many Novelties and Adaptations and the following 
 
 Ten New Dishes. 
 
 Fillets of Yarmouth bloaters en fritot. 
 
 Fillets of kippered herrings en fritot. 
 
 Fillets of dried haddock en fritot, ditto bloaters. 
 
 Omelette of oysters. 
 
 Omelette of fillets of soles. 
 
 Omelette of chicken and ham. 
 
 Omelette of minced beef. 
 
 Omelette of minced mutton. 
 
 Savoury Omelette. 
 
 Favorites of game, poultry, and fish. 
 
 Fillets of Yarmouth Bloaters en Fritot.—Cut off the heads 
 
 and tails of the bloaters, using as many as are required, cut each one 
 in two lengthways, and with your small knife remove all the bones, 
 and throw a dust of flour over them, and dip each piece in batter 
 (page 30), and fry of a nice brown-colour; dish in a pile, and send very 
 hot to table. 
 
 The Fillets of Kippered Herrings are served in the same way. 
 
 The same with some nicely cut Fillets of Haddock. 
 
 The soft roes of the bloaters should be served with the bloaters fried 
 in the same way. 
 
 Omelette of Oysters.—Cook the oysters and cut them in four 
 (about one dozen), add the liquor to a little white or brown sauce and 
 let boil to reduce the sauce to its original quantity, then fry your 
 omelette as above, taking care to serve very hot. 
 
 Omelette of Fillets of Soles.—Place two fillets of soles on a small 
 saute pan, rubbed with a bit of butter, place the fillets of soles on this, 
 and put in the oven for a few minutes ; you can tell if done by placing 
 your finger on them, and if tender they will do ; cut them in dice, or 
 in small shreds, and chop a little parsley, and mix with two table- 
 
FAVORITES. 
 
 37 
 
 spoonfuls of white or brown sauce; add a little seasoning, and place 
 in a small stewpan to get hot. And, now, prepare your omelette pan 
 by placing a piece of lard in the same, and let your omelette pan become 
 really very hot, and while it is becoming so, crack four very fresh eggs 
 in a pan, and break up a small pat of butter in this, and add one table¬ 
 spoonful of milk, and then beat the eggs well for a few seconds; then 
 empty out the lard and wipe the pan well with a cloth, and put in it a 
 pat of butter, placing it again on the hot plate, and directly the butter 
 is melted pour in your eggs, and place the pan on the hottest part of 
 the hot plate, and let it fry, stirring with a plated fork to and fro to mix 
 what is setting with what is not, and if the plate is nice and hot it will 
 soon set; as it does so, shake it, so as to move it forward, and, when 
 nice and brown, place the filets of soles in the centre, then overlap the 
 omelette so as to enclose the sole; turn on a hot dish and send to 
 table. 
 
 Omelette of Chicken and Ham. —Cut the ham and part of a 
 remnant of fowl in dice, mix with white or brown sauce, and fry your 
 omelette as above, being careful not to fry the omelette till asked for. 
 
 Omelette of Minced Beef and Minced Mutton are pre¬ 
 pared in the same way as the above, using brown sauce with the minced 
 mutton or beef. 
 
 Savory Omelette. —Chop a little green thyme, parsley, and lemon 
 peel, and mix in the omelette of four eggs or, rather, say, beat the herbs 
 in with the eggs, adding a little seasoning, and pour a little brown sauce 
 of gravy round the omelette when serving. And there is no difficulty 
 in making these excellent dishes, if the instructions that are given are 
 paid attention to ; and let me add, a medium-size iron frying-pan makes 
 the best omelette pan, and it should never be used for any other purpose. 
 
 Favorites of game, or poultry, or fish, are made the same as 
 the favorites au parmesan (p. 14), substituting one for the other of the 
 above, and excluding the parmesan cheese ; and they can be made into 
 round balls, or oblong shapes, without bread crumming, and placed on 
 baking-sheets, or a sheet, about one inch apart; and adding one yolk of 
 an egg to one teaspoonful of water, mix well together, and with an egg 
 brush lightly, mask them over with this, and bake them in an oven of 
 
38 
 
 FRIED EGGS AND BROILED HAM. 
 
 sound heat, without rashness ; and serve under them a little brown 
 sauce, or pomrade, or piquant sauce, and send to table very hot. 
 
 Plain Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Curry Sauce. —Trim 
 and broil as many cutlets as you need, keeping the cutlets a good size ; 
 pour the curry sauce a l’lndienne (au Espagnol sauce, with a little Indian 
 pickle chopped fine, and a spoonful of Cook’s curry paste, mixed in the 
 same), pour the sauce over the cutlets when dished, and serve a little 
 plain boiled rice in the same. 
 
 Broiled Rump Steak, a l’lndienne. — Serve the same as the 
 plain broiled cutlets, with a little plain boiled rice on each side of the 
 dish. 
 
 Poached Eggs and Broiled Ham a l’lndienne. —Place 
 about tJ pints of boiling water in a saute pan. Add to this one spoon¬ 
 ful of vinegar and a little salt. Crack six eggs, one at a time, into a 
 small saucer, and then gently turn them into the boiling water; when 
 cooked lift them out carefully with a very thin slice on to a hair sieve, 
 and then fry six nice slices of ham, and dish these—a slice of ham and 
 a poached egg, (which has been cut into a round shape with a tin 
 cutter.) Let these be placed alternately in a suitable sized dish close to 
 the edge of the same, then pour a curry sauce into the centre of the dish, 
 a little plain boiled rice in it. Make hot for a couple of minutes on the 
 hot-plate and serve ; a spoonful of Cook’s curry paste, one ditto of 
 chutney, and a little brown sauce, will serve for the sauce, letting the 
 same boil together before serving. 
 
 Fried* Eggs and Broiled Ham with Tomato Sauce. —Cut 
 
 up two tomatos, add a spoonful of Chilli vinegar, a little sugar, and salt, 
 add a little brown sauce. Let boil for a few minutes, and rub through 
 a hair sieve, and place in a small stewpan to get hot; then fry six 
 medium-sized slices of ham, or broil them; and then place about -Jib. 
 of hog’s lard in a saute pan, and when the lard is quite hot, crack four 
 fresh eggs, one at a time, in a small saucer, and as you crack the eggs 
 place them in the hot fat. Fry two at a time, and place or dish them 
 in the centre of the dish—first a slice of ham, then a fried egg ; and 
 when fried and dished, pour round or at each side the tomato sauce. 
 Make hot for a couple of minutes and serve. The eggs, by being fried 
 
HADDOCKS AND EGGS. 39 
 
 in this manner, greatly increase in size, and become like a honeycomb 
 in the white part, and make a nice-looking dish. 
 
 Fresh Haddock en Kari. —Boil off lb. of rice in 2 quarts of 
 boiling water, adding a little salt. Then take a medium sized fresh 
 haddock, and, cutting three equal slits crosswise on each side of the 
 fish, and oppsite each other, place the same in boiling water, with a 
 small handful of salt; boil seven minutes, and then place in cold water 
 for a couple of minutes, and then remove on to a sieve, when remove 
 the skin, and pick out all the scallops of white fish, and make these into 
 a nice pile, using some of the rice as you pile up the fish, and finish by 
 quite covering the fish, and run over the top of the pile about 2 ozs. of 
 clarified butter. Bake in a hot oven for about ten minutes, and serve 
 with an Indian sauce poured round the pile the same as for poached 
 eggs a l’Indienne, but using about half a pint of sauce; it should 
 show brown on the top, which can be done with the salamander, 
 if need. 
 
 Haddocks and Eggs a la Moderne, Sauce Piquant. —Make 
 a little butter sauce, about 1 gill (see No. 1 of this work); then prepare 
 a few fresh bread crumbs, about half a pint; and chop about a spoon¬ 
 ful of picked parsley and six preserved or fresh champignons, chop 
 these very fine, then boil three eggs ten minutes, and place them 
 in cold water, and prepare a medium size haddock the same as for 
 haddock en kari, and then on a tin or China plate, which should be 
 lightly buttered, or on a small saute pan. After removing the hard- 
 boiled eggs from their shells and cutting the eggs in equal size slices, 
 build up your scallops or white of the haddock in a round pile ; placing 
 a row of haddock, then a little butter sauce, then some slices of hard- 
 boiled eggs, then another layer of haddock, and so on till all the haddock 
 and eggs are used. Then mix the bread crumbs, chopped parsley, and 
 mushrooms together ; and making your butter sauce cold; slightly mash 
 the pile of fish and eggs with the same, seasoning with mixed pepper 
 and salt; cover the same with your prepared bread crumbs, pressing the 
 crumbs with both hands on the pile of fish, and with a brush run a little 
 clarified butter over the same, and bake in the oven of a light-gold tint, 
 when with a slice remove the same to the centre of the dish on which it 
 
40 
 
 KIDNEYS FARCIE EN FRITOT. 
 
 is to be sent to table, and pour a piquant sauce round it, made as 
 follows :—Chop two shalots and one gherkin very fine; boil in a glass 
 of vinegar till the vinegar is nearly evaporated, then add a gill of brown 
 sauce and a little second stock, and a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce; 
 boil together, adding a little cayenne pepper, and serve. 
 
 Fillets of Haddock en Fritot, sauce Tomato.—Cut the 
 fillets from a medium-sized fresh haddock, divide each fillet crosswise, 
 giving four nice pieces ; prepare a fryitig batter (see page 30 of this 
 work), make about one pound of hogs’ lard quite hot for frying; 
 then throw a little flour over the half-fillets of haddock, and then dip 
 them in the batter lightly, masking each piece, and drop into the hot 
 fat; fry two pieces at a time of a nice light-brown colour, and when all 
 are fried serve with them, when dished, some tomato sauce, as for the 
 fried eggs and broiled ham. 
 
 Fritot of Soles en Fritot. —Fritots of soles can be served in the 
 
 same manner as the above. 
 
 Scallops of Salmon a l’lndienne. — Take one pound of split 
 salmon of medium size, cut the bone away if any, and then cut the 
 same into equal sized scallops, cut from the thick side first, and so 
 follow on; when the scallops are cut, dust them or toss them up in a 
 little flour on a plate, then beat up one egg with a little salt, and with 
 an egg brush mask each scallop with egg, and then bread crumb them, 
 and fry in hot fat. When all are fried (and it is best to fry half at 
 a time) dish them in a pile ; and then chop about a tablespoonful of 
 Indienne pickle, add this to nearly half a pint of brown sauce with a 
 little Cook s curry paste, and a spoonful of Indian chutney, let boil to¬ 
 gether, and pour round the scallops, and serve. 
 
 Kidneys farcie en Fritot, a la Italienne. —Chop a shalot, a 
 little parsley, and six preserved mushrooms very fine, and mix these 
 with two pork sausages and one yolk of an egg, cut the kidneys in two, 
 six in number, place a skewer through them, or say two, and partly broil 
 them for three minutes on each side, then place them still on the skewers 
 l0 get nearly cold. I hen fill the farce into each half kidney, and dip 
 each in batter and fry of a nice brown colour in clean hogs’ lard, and 
 pile them in the centre of ’he dish upon which they are to be served; 
 
cod’s roe en fritot. 
 
 41 
 
 pour round them a little piquant sauce, made the same as for the ftied 
 eggs, and serve. 
 
 Pilau of Rice, a l’Anglaise. —Boil off, in two quarts of water, 
 half a pound of Carolina rice, when not too much done strain it in a 
 hair sieve, and while in the sieve pour over about two quarts more 
 of hot water, to free it from any slimy appearance; then dry it in a cloth 
 as far as possible, and place it in a rather large saute pan, and fry it 
 with about six tablespoonsfuls of clarified butter till of a light-brown 
 colour, then add a teaspoonful of curry powder, also of Cook’s curry 
 paste, mix these well together, then place in a two-part stewpan with a 
 gill of good stock, and let simmer while you prepare a little hashed beef 
 or mutton, or fowl, or game; then place half your rice in the dish, 
 make a hole in the centre, in this place your hash of any kind, cover 
 with your rice in a pile, and send to table very hot, and pour a litfle 
 good gravy round the rice before serving. 
 
 Fritot of Fowl a la Moderne. —Prepare any remnant of fowl 
 or turkey, or boil a fowl for half an hour, and when cold cut it in equal 
 sized pieces ; throw them into a little flour and toss them in it, and 
 place on a plate and dip in frying batter, and fry of a light-brown colour; 
 serve round them a tomato sauce, as at page 17, and serve. 
 
 Cod’s Roe en fritot with Sauce of Tomatoes. —Plaee 
 three quarts of water to boil in a fish kettle, add to this a small handful 
 of salt and one gill of vinegar, when it boils put in it a nice fresh cod’s 
 roe, and let it boil twenty minutes, then take it from the water and 
 place it in the larder for next day’s use ; when needed, cut it in square 
 pieces one inch wide. Then prepare a frying batter, for description of 
 which see page 30, and now place about two pounds of hogs’ lard in a 
 stewpan to become hot, and when it is so, dust a little flour over the 
 pieces of roe, then dip them in the batter (taking care it is not too 
 thick), and fry off about six pieces at a time ; they should be fried of a 
 light-brown colour, and should not be placed in the fat till it is quite hot , 
 which you can tell by frying a piece of bread before you commence to 
 fry the roe, they should be dished in a pile in an entree dish, and the 
 tomato sauce poured round them (for which see page 23), and serve 
 very hot. 
 
42 
 
 cod’s liver and oysters in paper cases. 
 
 Cod’s Liver and Oysters in Paper Cases, au Gratin.— 
 
 Boil a cod’s liver in two quarts of salted water a quarter of an hour, 
 then place it in some cold water with a little ice in it, so as to make it 
 quite cold ; then place two dozen large oysters for stewing in a stewpan 
 with thin liquor and half a gill of water, let these boil for five minutes, 
 then strain the liquor through a pointed tin strainer into a quart stew- 
 pan containing half a pint of veloute sauce (see page 7), then let it boil 
 down to its original consistence, adding a tablespoonful of essence of 
 anchovy, with about half a handful of picked parsley chopped very 
 fine and thrown into a little boiling water, and then strained through 
 a pointed tin strainer, and added to the sauce. Chop also eight 
 mushrooms very fine and place in the sauce also, with half a gill of 
 double cream, let these boil together for a few minutes, then take 
 one dozen small fondu cases of paper, and with a little salad oil coat 
 the outside and inside, then turn them upside down on a dish and 
 let them drain and dry in the oven for two minutes, then cut up 
 the cold liver into twelve pieces, and place one piece in each case ; 
 then wash the oysters and cut the black part of the beard away, 
 then cut each oyster in .four pieces, and add them to same, which 
 equally divide between the twelve cases containing the liver, and cover 
 them with bread crumbs fried with a pat of butter of a bright gold 
 colour, and let them become hot in the oven for about ten minutes, 
 when dish and serve in a pile on an ornamental dessert paper. 
 
43 
 
 Baba Mould. 
 
 Meranque Bowl. 
 
 Piping Bag. 
 
 Jelly Stand. 
 
 Jelly Box. 
 
 Jelly Mould. 
 
 Jelly Mould. 
 
 The Moulds in the following pages are to be obtained of Messrs. Adams & Co., Haymcukef. 
 
45 
 
 Jelly and Cream Moulds. 
 
 Jelly and Cream Moulds. 
 
 Jelly and Cream Moulds. 
 
 Charlotte Moulds. 
 
 Melon Cake Mould. 
 
 Cutters. 
 
 Jelly and Cream Moulds. 
 
47 
 
 Stock Pot. Bain Marie Case and Fittings. Stewpan. 
 
 Aspic Border Moulds. 
 
 Border Moulds. 
 
 French Pie Moulds and Darish Moulds, &c. 
 
4 8 
 
 Ice Padding Moulds. 
 
 Neapolitan Gauffre 
 
 Spoon. Irons. 
 
 Ice 
 
 Spatula. 
 
 Wire Fruit Strainer. 
 
I 
 
 MENU OF DINNER 
 
 FOR FEBRUARY, 
 
 fo;r;isixteen or eighteen persons. 
 
 (Two Soups.) 
 
 Puree of Artichokes a la Palestine. 
 
 Consomme de Volaille a la Royal. 
 
 ( Two Fish.) 
 
 Slices of Salmon a la Genoese. 
 
 Saute"of fillets of Whitings, with Oysters, en Kari. 
 
 (Four Entrees.) 
 
 Fillets of Fowl larded a la Prince. 
 
 Boudins of Hare, with Peas a la Chateaubriand. 
 
 ( Two Ken loves.) 
 
 Capons and Tongue a la Chipolata. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton, Roast a l’Anglaise. 
 
 2nd Course. 
 
 Roast Pheasants. Roast Snipes. 
 
 ( Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Mushrooms a la Bordelaise. 
 
 (Two Removes.) 
 
 Brioche Pudding a la Duchesse. 
 
 Beignets of Cherries a la Moderne. 
 
 ( Entremets.) 
 
 Two Creams of Coffee en Surprise. 
 
 Two Pains of Apricots a la Reine. 
 
 (Savory Entremets.) 
 
 Two Soufflees de Poulet au Parmesan a la Supreme. 
 
 (Side Table.) 
 
 Vegetables in Season, Salade a la Russe, Sauces, &c. 
 
 E 
 
REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 50 
 
 Requisition List for the above dinner, for all Stores, and to 
 the different tradesmen for all the articles needed, and showing the 
 different days when they should arrive, and the time. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 24 lbs. Soup Meat, half beef and half veal, and without bone ; 1 ox 
 tongue, 2 lbs. slice veal, 2 lbs. gravy beef, 2 small throat breads, and 1 
 haunch of mutton. The soup meat, ox tongue, and two sweetbreads 
 to be in the kitchen on Tuesday morning by nine o’clock, and the 
 remainder on Wednesday at the same hour. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 Four slices salmon (not too large), four whitings filleted, and to be of 
 medium size, three dozen oysters for stewing, a little live spawn. The 
 oysters to be in the kitchen on Wednesday morning at 11 o’clock, and 
 remainder on Thursday at the same hour; \ cwt. of Wenham Lake ice 
 on Wednesday. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Two capons trussed for braizing, four young and fine fowls for cutting, 
 one ditto to boil, two old hens, three pounds of sausage meat, two 
 pheasants for roasting, eight snipe ditto. (The four fowls to cut, the 
 two old hens and one fowl to boil, and two pounds of sausage meat to 
 be in the kitchen by 10 o’clock in the morning of Tuesday, and the 
 other things on Thursday morning at same hour.) 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Twelve pounds of potatoes, two quarts Brussels sprouts, one good 
 dish spinach, two baskets of champignons, very fresh, one salad, six 
 carrots, twelve onions, four heads of celery, J lb. shalots, four lemons, 
 small bunch of thyme and parsley, four quart canisters of preserved 
 young peas. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 One half pint can preserved truffles, two pint cans preserved pulp 
 of apricots, one stick vanille, one pint salad oil, J lb. of the best 
 
CONSOMME OF FOWL. 
 
 51 
 
 gelatine, i lb. pure coffee, lb. parmesan cheese, 1 lb. mixed preserved 
 peel, | lb. preserved cherries, lb. preserved pineapple, 2 ozs. pistachio 
 nuts, one quart can preserved mushrooms, 4 lbs. powdered lump sugar, 
 2 lbs. salt butter, 2 lbs. fresh butter, two quarts fresh milk, two quarts 
 very fresh cream, 2^ dozen fresh eggs, one bottle sherry, half bottle 
 brandy, |lb. sultanas, one bladder of lard (about 2 lbs.), one pint Macedoine 
 roots. The milk and cream to be in the kitchen Wednesday morning 
 first thing, all the other items to be in the house on Tuesday. 
 
 Having looked carefully through the preceding menu, and also the 
 requisition list, prepare and finish your stocks and foundation sauces, as 
 in the instructions given in the first number of this work, taking care 
 they are prepared two clear days before the day of the supposed dinner. 
 
 Still believing in the excellence of our plan, of giving a full and 
 detailed account of good dinners , and how to dress them, and how to send 
 them to table , we shall continue to do the same; believing that by our 
 process the large number needing instruction in culinary art can be 
 more readily taught than by any other process we know , have heard op 
 or seen. And we assure our readers each number will contain a large 
 number of entirely new dishes of most excellent quality, and quite as 
 good in the latter as in their novelty. 
 
 Soup a la Palestine.—Cut up the white part of one head of 
 celery, two Spanish onions, eighteen Jerusalem artichokes, and the white 
 part of a leek; throw these into some boiling water in which has been 
 placed a spoonful of salt; let boil a couple of minutes, then strain them 
 into a hair sieve, and then put them into a three-quart stew-pan, with 
 one quart of white stock ; let slowly stew for about one hour, and when 
 you find it very tender (that is to say, the body of the vegetables), add 
 half-a-pint of cream, and another half-pint of white stock; when the soup 
 again boils let two of your assistants rub it through a tammy-cloth ; 
 then boil it again in the stew-pan you have been using, having had the 
 same washed out; when it boils, place it in one of your soup bain-maries, 
 and place it in the larder, leaving the lid half off. 
 
 Consomme of Fowl a la Royal.—Take two quarts of your 
 
 brown gravy, which should be quite bright; in the other soup bain-marie, 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 THE FOUR ENTREES. 
 
 bring it to the boil, and put in a little boiling water, a half-pint can 
 of Jardiniere roots; let boil for two minutes, when strain them, and add 
 to the soup, removing any little scum that may arise; and place in the 
 larder with cover partly open. 
 
 The two fish will be prepared on the day of the dinner. 
 
 The Four Entrees. — Two Petits Boudins of Hare a la Chateau¬ 
 briand.—Two Fillets de Poulets a la Prince. — Cut the fillets whole from 
 the hare, by running your knife right along, and as close as possible to 
 the back bone ; then pull back the skin, and cut under each fillet and 
 remove the same ; and then proceed to remove the whole of the flesh 
 of the hare from the legs and the under fillets, and let one of your 
 assistants, after you have cut away the most sinewy part, pound all the 
 meat well in a mortar, and pass through a wire sieve, and when passed 
 place between two plates, then chop up the bones, and place these in 
 a two-quart stew-pan with one onion, one carrot, half a head of celery, 
 the best part, sliced up small, and added to the hare’s bones, with one 
 pint of second stock, and let slowly boil for about one hour, adding 
 about one pint of stock. Then prepare half-a-pint of mixture of pate 
 choux (described in the first number of this work), as panada, the same 
 as for quenelles of pheasant, using the same quantity of panada as the 
 pounded hare, and about one-fourth of either in fresh butter, and finish 
 by mixing the same as for quenelles of pheasant; and of the same 
 consistence (about two whole eggs and three or four yolks), and be 
 equally particular when all the eggs are added to roll out a little, about 
 the size of a small cork, in a dust of flour, and place this in about half- 
 a-pint of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for four or five minutes ; 
 and, if of a light and compact nature, it will do; and a little cream, or 
 a couple of spoonfuls of cold brown sauce will greatly (if you think 
 the mixture strong enough to sustain it) improve it. And of this be 
 as particular as you can be, and bear in mind that all kinds of quenelle 
 should be of a light aud delicate nature , but of such strength as to keep 
 compact while cooking. And if at any time you find it too firm, a little 
 cream will soon soften it and bring it to its proper point; and if, on the 
 other hand, it should show somewhat loose, and inclined to separate, a 
 couple more yolks of eggs will counterbalance and remedy such defect. 
 
FILLETS OF FOWL. 
 
 53 
 
 And when the mixture is right, then model the same as for the quenelles 
 of pheasants , but a little smaller; and cook them the same, thus far, 
 that is, when they are all made into shape, and poached, and when cold 
 some very fine bread crumbs should be made (say, half a quartern loaf 
 of yesterday’s baking), and now crack three whole eggs and three yolks, 
 adding a little salt; beat these together, and spreading on a dish your 
 petits boudins of hare, throw a dust of flour over them, and then dip 
 them, one at a time, into the bread crumbs, coating them nice and 
 evenly with the crumbs; and to finish them, fry them of a light gold 
 colour, in clean hog’s lard, and dish en miriton on a border of 
 prepared potatoes. And let me state en miriton means, to dish the 
 same as cutlets, with mushrooms or peas in the centre and a 
 Chateaubriand sauce round them when you serve, with essence of 
 hare in the same. ( See Sauce List a feiv pages on.) 
 
 Fillets of Fowl a la Prince.—Take three good size best quality 
 fowls prepared for cutting, split the skin down the centre of the breast, 
 then run your small knife close to the centre of the breast-bone, and 
 then sloping your knife round to the pinion-bone, and cutting close to 
 the breast-bones. Remove the upper fillets, also the under fillets ; and 
 then cut and remove the legs in their entirety from the body of each, 
 and chop up all the bones, also the ailerons or pinions, and, hardly 
 covering them with water, put them on the fire to boil as soon as 
 possible, taking care when it boils to remove the scum and add a few 
 stock-pot vegetables. The stock that comes from these bones is to help 
 make the sauce for the two dishes of fillets, and should, therefore, be paid 
 due attention to. It will take one hour and a half to gently simmer ; and 
 in the meantime proceed with the fowls as follows : rub one pound of 
 pork sausage meat through a wire quenelle sieve, and scrape it into a 
 plate, then chop very fine a few mushrooms and four truffles, and mix 
 these with the sausage meat, and now spread open the legs of the fowls, 
 take or cut away all the bones and also the sinewy parts and beat them 
 out with your cutlet chopper, letting them be of the same size as near 
 as possible. Season them, and then divide the sausage meat into six 
 equal parts, one part for each leg, which make into round balls, and tie 
 each one up tightly in a portion of an old napkin, or in a thin piece of 
 
54 
 
 FILLETS OF FOWL. 
 
 calico, and put them to cook in the stew-pan containing the bones of 
 fowl. About three-quarters of an hour will cook them, then remove 
 them, and when a little cold tie them up tightly, so as to make them 
 contract, and place them to become cold. And now look to your fillets, 
 the large ones first; trim them, and then with your cutlet chopper pat 
 them, but not to bruise them , to make them lay even on your cutting 
 board; and now with a very sharp knife, beginning with the broad end, 
 cut them cleanly and evenly through the centre, so as to make each 
 one fillet into two; and do like likewise with the other large fillets, so 
 that you will have twelve large fillets and six small fillets. And mind, as I 
 said at the commencement, the three fowls should be fine fowls — 
 meaning with good thick fillets —or you cannot do these dishes in a first- 
 rate manner. And now take about i-lb. of firm fat bacon, and cut this 
 into shreds of equal length and uniform thickness (they should be about 
 the half of an eighth of an inch in thickness and about one inch long), 
 and some of the truffles (the largest) should be cut to match the 
 bacon. And now nicely lard the fillets, the round end first, starting with 
 a row of bacon (four pieces), then a row of truffles (three pieces), placing 
 four rows in each fillet. And when all are larded, cut some pieces of 
 bread from half-a-quartern loaf into long round pieces, about one and a 
 quarter of an inch in diameter; cover these pieces of bread with very 
 thin slices of fat bacon, on the top of which, in regular order, place your 
 larded fillets of fowl ; and then cover the same with more strips of fat 
 bacon ; and then take your small fillets and cut five slits on each, in a 
 slanting direction (about half way through the fillets), and then cut about 
 four truffles into thin slices as thick as a thin sixpence ; and with a cutter 
 the size of a fourpenny-piece, cut these into rounds, and then cut the 
 rounds in two crosswise, and place a half-round in each slit you made 
 in each small fillet. Place bacon over and under on a round of bread, the 
 same size as the others : the small fillets between ; then arrange them 
 neatly on a saute-pan, and place them in the larder till further needed. 
 And now look to your puddings of fowl—or, as they are called in 
 kitchen parlance, ballotines of fowls—place them in cold water for a 
 couple of minutes, and then tie them un tightly, and for the present 
 place them in the larder beside the larded fillets. 
 
CURRIED OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 55 
 
 The Dinner Sauces. —And now, having looked through the Bill 
 of Fare, the following are the sauces needed, which we will prepare—the 
 foundation sauces being ready to hand :— 
 
 Genoise sauce for slices of salmoa, pint. 
 
 Oyster curried for fillets of whitings, one pint. 
 
 Supreme for fillets of fowl, one pint. 
 
 Ragout for ditto, one pint. 
 
 Chateaubriand for boudins of hare, one pint. 
 
 Young peas for ditto, one pint. 
 
 Financiere sauce for pheasants and snipes, one pint. 
 
 Gravy for haunch of mutton (the best), one pint. 
 
 Espagnol for champignons bordelaise, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for brioche pudding of wine, half-pint. 
 
 Currant jelly sauce for beignets a la moderne, half-a-pint. 
 
 Melted butter for vegetables, one pint. 
 
 Chipolata ragout for capons and sauce, one quart; bread 
 sauce, half-a-pint. 
 
 The hot-plate fire should now be well made up, and the Espagnol and 
 veloute sauce put into stewpans and placed on hot-plate, and strain 
 the essence of leveret and the essence of chicken into two stewpans to 
 reduce—that is, if they have stewed as directed. 
 
 Genoise and Oyster Sauce for Fish. —Place one pint of 
 Espagnol in a stewpan, one gill of second stock, one glass of sherry, 
 half-glass of vinegar, and two spoonfuls of anchovy sauce ; let it reduce, 
 then skim and pass through a finely-perforated tin strainer, taking 
 care your bain-maries are all ready for use and perfectly dry; and the 
 sauces should be passed into each bain-marie through the pointed sieve, 
 several of which should be now ready at hand. 
 
 Curried Oyster Sauce for Saute of Whitings. —Place the 
 whiting bones, from which the fillets were taken, on the fire : they 
 should be chopped up rather small; add to them half-a-pint of 
 second stock, one onion, cut small, and a bouquet of thyme and parsley, 
 and place in a two-quart stewpan, the cover fitting closely , and stew 
 slowly for half an hour, to obtain the essence ; then place your oysters 
 in a stewpan and let them boil, and strain each into a basin, mix¬ 
 ing them ; then throw away the fish bones, have washed the stewpan, and 
 
56 
 
 RAGOUT FOR FILLETS OF FOWL. 
 
 put the oyster liquor and fish essence in this ; add also one glass of 
 sherry and some essence of mushrooms ; let these reduce to one-half, 
 and then add three-quarters of a pint of veloute sauce, mixing a couple 
 of spoonsful with one tablespoonful of Cook’s curry paste, with half a 
 teaspoonful of curry powder, and two spoonsful of chutney sauce, add 
 these to the oyster liquor, and fish essence, and veloute sauce ; let boil 
 to the right consistence, then strain into a bain-marie ; and now wash 
 your oysters and trim off the black part of the beard, and place them in 
 the curry sauce and mark off. 
 
 Supreme Sauce for Fillets of Fowl. —Place one pint of 
 velout sauce in a two-quart stewpan, add to this the essence of chicken 
 when it has reduced one-half, adding a few fresh mushrooms cut in thin 
 slices ; let these boil, stirring the same till of the consistence of double 
 cream; then add about half a pint of very fresh cream, let boil well 
 together, and when you think it is of the right thickness pass through 
 pointed sieve, and mark. 
 
 Butter Sauce. —Thicken half-a-pint of boiling water with a good 
 tablespoonful of flour that has been mixed smoothly with cold water, 
 let boil two minutes, and stir in two ounces of butter, and when of proper 
 consistence then pass through pointed strainer, and mark off in bain- 
 marie. 
 
 Chateaubriand Sauce for Boudins of Hare. —Reduce three 
 parts of a pint of Espagnol sauce with the essence of hare, and a wine¬ 
 glass of sherry, half ditto of malt vinegar, and a good spoonful of red 
 currant jelly, and when of the usual conistence, pass through a pointed 
 sieve or strainer, and add four truffles, chopped very fine, and a little of 
 the essence of truffles, and mark off. 
 
 Chipolata Sauce for Capons. —Boil two glasses of sherry and 
 some mushroom essence with one pint of Espagnol sauce and one gill 
 of second stock ; let boil, and skim, and when reduced to the proper 
 consistence, pass through a pointed strainer, and mark. 
 
 Note. —This sauce will be added to the Chipolata Ragout described 
 at page 62, when serving the capons. 
 
 Ragout for Fillets of Fowl. —Open one bottle of preserved 
 cocks’-combs, melting the stock with it by standing the bottle in warm 
 
BRIOCHE PUDDING. 
 
 57 
 
 water. Add to this one pint can of mushrooms, eight truffles (cut in 
 thin slices), and some prepared quenelles ; add a little stock, boil to¬ 
 gether, and mark in bain-marie. 
 
 Best Gravy for Haunch of Mutton. —Mark one pint of best 
 gravy, and half-a-pint for the second course roasts. 
 
 Peas for Boudins of Hare. —Throw into boiling water one pint 
 can of preserved peas, add a little salt, and let boil two minutes, when 
 strain them ; mark in a bain-marie with a pat of butter a little sugar and 
 salt, and one gill of second stock; let boil up, and mark off. 
 
 Sauce for Brioche Pudding.— Place half a pint of water in a 
 stewpan to boil, with two ounces of sugar, thicken with two table- 
 spoonsful of corn-flour; add to this a small glass of brandy and a glass 
 of sherry, add a few drops of cochineal, and mark off. 
 
 Sauce for Beignets a la Moderne. —Dissolve half-a-pint pot of 
 red currant jelly by boiling in one gill of water, and mark. 
 
 Sauce for Champignons a la Bordelaise. —Half a pint of 
 Espagnol, let boil with half glass of vinegar and glass of sherry, and 
 a little pepper and salt, and mark off. 
 
 And now these sauces should be duly arranged in the bain-marie 
 case, and placed in the larder. The soups also should be placed in the 
 same. 
 
 Second Course Dishes. —And now we will turn to the second 
 course dishes, being as forward with the first course as it is possible to 
 be the day previous to the dinner, as we will suppose —and the soups, 
 all the special sauces, and the entrees, being as ready and forward as 
 they can possibly be to-day. 
 
 Brioche Pudding a la Duchesse. —One pound of flour, io oz. 
 butter, six whole eggs, two yolks of eggs, i oz. of yeast, £ lb. of candied 
 pine-apple, J lb. dried cherries, i oz. pistachios. Prepare and butter 
 a mould, the same as for the baba a la polonaise in Number i of this 
 work. It should not be too large. Take a teacup of milk, make it 
 warm, and place it in a pint basin ; dissolve the ounce of German yeast 
 in this, taking care it is very fresh , then stir sufficient sifted flour into this 
 to make it about as thick as double cream ; stand this in the warm till 
 ready. Then take a four quart basin, place the io ozs. butter in this, so 
 
53 
 
 PAINS OF APRICOTS A LA ROYAL. 
 
 as to slightly warm it, then stir it well with the hand to cream it, which 
 is done by well beating the butter, then add the flour, taking care to sift 
 it previously; mix the butter well into this, then add the two yolks and 
 two of the eggs and beat these into the butter, adding the other four 
 eggs, and keep beating so as to thoroughly well blend together the whole 
 of the ingredients. And now look at your sponge made from the German 
 yeast, and if it has nicely risen, and you see the yeast globules have 
 begun to burst , you can be sure it is ready; and now gently mix this 
 sponge into the brioche paste or batter (it must be well mixed and 
 beaten in). Then rub the batter from your hand by dipping it in flour, 
 rub it over the batter, which let remain for a few minutes while you 
 prepare the other ingredients, which do as follows :—Blanch the pistachio 
 nuts in boiling water for a few minutes, so as to readily remove the 
 skins, then cut them up, or chop them up coarsely, but to cut them is 
 best, and cut in small square pieces the pineapple, and when ready take 
 a little of the batter, and with your right hand (the mould being well 
 buttered) chemise the brioche mould—that is, line or cover the inside 
 with the brioche batter as thinly as you can—then mix in the cherries, 
 pineapple, and pistachio nuts into the remaining batter, and fill your 
 mould as far as possible (a cylinder mould is best—which means with a 
 pipe in it). Then butter a band of paper, which should be double, and 
 tie this round the top; and then fold a sheet of paper in four and put on 
 a baking sheet, and on this stand the brioche to prove; and when double 
 the size as when you put it in the mould place it in an oven of moderate 
 heat, and bake it of a light colour. It will take about one hour, more 
 or less, to bake; and, to be sure it is done, run a thin skewer down the 
 centre, and when you withdraw it, if there is nothing adhering to it, you 
 may be quite certain it is done. Let it stand two or three minutes (in 
 the dresser before turning it out; then carefully remove the band of 
 paper, and, holding the mould in your rubber, tap it on the side of the 
 kitchen dresser, turning the mould round as you tap it, and when you 
 see it has begun to leave the side of the mould turn it out on to a hair 
 sieve, and place in the larder till you are ready to finish it. 
 
 Pains of Apricots a la Royal.—Take a quart tin of preserved 
 pulp or puree of apricots, add sufficient sugar to sweeten it, with the 
 
TWO CREAMS AU CAFE EN SURPRISE. 
 
 59 
 
 juice of two lemons, and about half a pint of water, bring it to the boil, 
 and skin it well. Then put to soak, in cold water, three ounces of the 
 best pied de veau gelatine]; and when it has soaked about half an hour 
 put it in a teacup of boiling water, stirring it with a wooden spoon till 
 quite dissolved ; and now rub through a hair sieve the apricot pulp, 
 standing the sieve on a China dish as you do this; and when all is 
 rubbed through, put it in a three-quart kitchen pan, and add to it two 
 glasses of brandy ; and now taste it and see if quite palatable, and if so, 
 stir in the melted gelatine and place in the cool, or on a little ice is best, 
 and set one of your assistants to keep stirring the same till it begins 
 slightly to set, when it should be divided into two one-quart jelly 
 moulds, which have been washed and dried for the purpose ; take care 
 to fill them equally, and then place in the larder, placing a little bit 
 aside to see if it will be firm enough when turned out of the large 
 moulds. Prepare also half-a-pint of smooth custard to serve with the 
 pains of apricots you have just finished. 
 
 Two Creams au Cafe en Surprise. —Make about half a pint 
 of strong extract of coffee, using 6-ozs. of coffee in so doing, which strain 
 through a finely perforated tin strainer; then put in soak i-oz. of the 
 best gelatine, and when it has soaked for about ten minutes, make the 
 coffee hot and sweeten it, then stir in the gelatine, adding half a wine-glass 
 of brandy ; the gelatine must be quite dissolved, and to accomplish this, 
 place the coffee again on the fire for a few minutes, and when quite 
 dissolved, remove from the fire and place a little on the ice to test its 
 firmness. It should be about the consistence of firm jelly, and while 
 becoming cool, have two more clean jelly moulds ready for use, and by 
 your side a little ice in a bowl or pan, and place the extract of coffee in 
 a pint stewpan, and put the same on the ice, stirring it with a wooden 
 spoon, and directly you see it beginning to set, remove it from the ice ; 
 and to prevent it setting too quickly , warm the bottom of the stewpan for a 
 minute, then stir together again; and now put the point of your finger 
 in it, and if it will smoothly mask the finger point, it will do, and at once 
 pour it into'one of the jelly moulds, and then rapidly turn the mould 
 round and round, so as to mask the inside of the mould, and when this 
 is accomplished, pour out the surplus to melt again in the stewpan; and 
 
6o 
 
 BEIGNETS A LA MODERNE. 
 
 when properly to its point of consistence, pour into the other mould and 
 mask the inside the same as the last one — which, in kitchen parlance, is 
 called chemising the mould. There is no difficulty in performing this 
 slight operation in the least, when the due state of consistence is arrived 
 at; and if you cannot succeed at the first trial, pour it back into the stew- 
 pan, melt it, and try again; and when properly done then fill them with 
 a curagoa cream prepared as follows :—Whip one pint of very fresh cream 
 till it shows firm and snowy in appearance, then soak and dissolve in 
 boiling water i-oz. of gelatine, the best pied de veau; when well dissolved, 
 it should have a full wine-glass of curagoa added, and three good table- 
 spoonsful of powdered sugar; stir this well in and make it warm again, or 
 nearly hot; and while in this state mix the cream into it (the whipt cream), 
 it should be well and rapidlly mixed in, and the moulds filled before it 
 can set. Divide it equally between the two moulds, and you will find it 
 will very nearly fill them ; and when so, place in the larder with the 
 pains of apricot. Now by right—that is, according to the dictum of the 
 kitchen — no cream should be filled in or made excepting on the day of the 
 dinner, but finding it would interefere with the description of making the 
 same, I have made the above note. 
 
 Beignets a la Moderne. — Six ounces of sifted flour, half-a-pint of 
 cream, three whole eggs and three yolks of eggs, half-a-pound of dried 
 and preserved cherries (each cherry cut in four pieces), and two dozen 
 Jordan almonds, blanched and the skins removed, and chopped not 
 too fine, 3 ozs. of butter, and about one tablespoonful of sugar. Place 
 the milk in a two-quart stewpan, with the butter and sugar in the same, 
 and immediately the milk boils stir in sifted flour, and keep stirring for 
 about two minutes. Then crack your eggs, taking care they are quite 
 fresh, and add one at a time till all are used, also the two yolks ; stir 
 for a little over the fire to partly set the eggs, but not to cook them. 
 Then prepare a copper baking sheet as follows :— Butter the same, and 
 fit a sheet of paper inside, and very lightly butter this. Then stir in the 
 cherries and the chopped almonds, and spread the mixture over the 
 paper to about the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Spread it evenly,, 
 and then place another sheet of paper (buttered) over the top, and 
 place in the larder till to-morrow, when they will be finished in the fol- 
 
BRIOCHE PUDDING A LA DUCHESSE. 
 
 61 
 
 lowing manner :—Prepare some very fine bread crumbs from a half¬ 
 quartern loaf one day old, and then, with a cutter about as wide as a 
 penny piece in diameter, cut out the beignets, about twenty-four; by 
 dipping the cutter in boiling water to every beignet, it will facilitate 
 this operation ; throw a little of the bread crumb over a china dish, and 
 place the beignets on this as you do them, and when all are cut out, you 
 can re-spread the remainder (the trimmings) and cut this also into shapes; 
 and now dip each one into bread crumbs, patting them to make the 
 crumbs adhere; and then into three whole eggs and three yolks of eggs, 
 beaten with a little salt to thin the eggs, and dip each one into this, remov¬ 
 ing a little of the egg with the fore-finger of the left hand, and then well into 
 the bread crumbs—an assistant patting the crumbs on each one as you 
 dip them; and again placing them on the dish, and when all are finished, 
 pat them into nice round shapes and place a clean sheet of paper on a 
 small baking sheet, and arrange them on this as you make them into 
 shapes : place another buttered sheet over them, and put in the larder 
 when finished. For dinner, fry them in the frying-basket about eight at 
 a time, in clean hog’s lard, taking care the lard is not too hot; they 
 should be fried slowly and of a nice light gold colour, and sugared and 
 salamandered before sending to table. It should be Vanilla sugar shook 
 over them before the salamander is used ; and dished in a nice firm 
 pile, and a red currant jelly sauce served round them when sending to 
 table. 
 
 Brioche Pudding a la Duchesse. —Make a raw custard as 
 follows : one and a half pint of milk, two large tablespoonful of sugar, 
 four yolks of eggs, and four whole eggs should be well beaten together, 
 then strained, and about half a nutmeg added, with one glass of maras¬ 
 chino. Now take the same mould in which the brioche was baked, 
 butter the same, as at first, and again place the cake in the mould, press¬ 
 ing it, so that it reach the bottom; then cut off the part which rises above 
 the rim of the mould, also a little of the cake from the centre; and, a 
 little before cooking the pudding, or placing it on the fire to do so, pour 
 the raw custard into the cake, but slowly, and not to run over into the 
 mould ; when the cake has absorbed the whole of the custard, screw a 
 piece of paper over it, and place it in a suitable-sized stew-pan, with a 
 
62 
 
 QUENELLE OF VEAL FOR RAGOUT. 
 
 sheet of paper folded several times under the pudding mould ; then place 
 about one quart of boiling water round the mould, and steam, with 
 the cover on, three-quarters of an hour. When serving, and the 
 pudding is turned out on the dish, pour over it a clear wine sauce, 
 thickened with a little arrowroot or cornflour, as instructed in the sauces 
 for the menu. 
 
 Quenelle of Veal for Ragout. —Proceed to make this the same 
 as for quenelle of pheasants, in the first number, substituting veal for 
 pheasants. When ready, mix into the same three truffles (chopped fine), 
 and make into small balls, about half-an-inch in diameter; this is done 
 by rolling a spoonful on the slab in the pastry, dusting the same with a 
 little flour, and then proceeding to roll them round on the slab till all 
 are finished ; when done, place them into boiling water, but do not let 
 them boil, and keep them on the hot-plate ; and, after a little time, the 
 hot water will cook them. They should—as all quenelles should—be 
 carefully watched, and tried, before making into shapes, in the usual 
 manner; and when the above feel firm to the touch, remove them on to 
 a sieve as you cook them, and finally place them in a stew-pan, just 
 covered with a little boiling second stock, brought to the boil, and 
 marked in the larder. 
 
 Ragout a la Chipolata for Capons. —Cut about one pound of 
 streaky bacon into square dice of about half an inch, taking care to cut 
 the rind and rough parts away before doing so ; then place the same 
 into a frying basket and fry the same in your frying fat, dipping the 
 same into it when nice and hot — fry them of a light-brown tint; drain 
 the same on a cloth ; then take one pound of pork sausage meat, un¬ 
 twist the skin, and with a little twine tie them in inch lengths, and then 
 boil them in stock, or about one quart of water for about five minutes ; 
 then place them in a wire frying basket, and when your fat is hot fry 
 them after the same manner as the bacon, of a light-brown tint; drain 
 them and place them with the fried bacon; then prepare three dozen 
 Spanish chestnuts as follows :—Cut off a piece of the brown skin (the 
 round piece on the top), also a smaller piece from the bottom ; and have 
 about four quarts of boiling water in a stewpan, and place about eight 
 chestnuts at a time in one of your small frying baskets, and be par- 
 
POTATO PASTE. 
 
 63 
 
 ticular to see the water is boiling, and when so add half a pint of cold 
 water to the same; and then immediately dip into this the frying basket 
 containing the eight chestnuts; let it remain in the hot water about two 
 minutes, then remove the basket, and with your small knife try if you 
 can remove the skin and covering easily , a piece at a time; and if 
 not, give them another dip, being careful not to leave in the hot 
 water too long, or you will cause the skin to'remain on instead of 
 coming easily off; an assistant should help you, as the quicker the 
 skin is taken off the better. When all are done trim away any 
 bruized or discoloured parts, place them in a stewpan with a glass of 
 sherry and half a pint of second stock, and let gently simmer till mealy 
 and tender as nicely cooked potatoes. About half an hour should cook 
 them ; then place them beside the bacon and sausage balls, reserving 
 the gravy if any; and now add one pint can of mushrooms and 
 six truffles cut in slices. Place these separate items in a suitable 
 sized stewpan, add half-a-pint of second stock, bring to the boil, 
 and mark off. 
 
 Note. —The water should boil up, and have a little cold thrown in, 
 each time the chestnuts are dipped in the same. 
 
 Potato Paste. —(For Dishing up upon )—Place twelve potatoes of 
 equal size, washed clean with the skins on, in an oven of good heat for 
 about half-an-hour, and when you think they are done try one, and if, 
 when pressed in a cloth, it is soft, they will do. They should not be 
 over cooked or baked ; and when are done, cut them all in two, then with 
 an iron spoon remove the inside on to a wire sieve, place a plate under 
 the sieve, and, more by pressure than rubbing, pass the mealy part 
 through the sieve. Place this in a kitchenpan, add a pat of butter and 
 two yolks of eggs, a little salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and mix well together, 
 and if you can readly roll a piece out without its becoming loose, it will 
 do, if not add another yolk of egg or two. Made as above, it is excel¬ 
 lent for dishing upon ; a?id modelled into shape and masked with a yolk of 
 egg and a few drops of water mixed well together, and, with a camels’ 
 hair brush, nicely and evenly masked with this egg, and baked in a 
 moderately heated oven, it is excellent, when well baked, for dishing 
 scallops of any kind in, and can be made to greatly imitate a rol an vent 
 
6 4 
 
 SAUTE OF FILLETS OF WHITING. 
 
 case by removing the top and taking out the inside. And most certainly 
 it can be made, if a little skill and good taste is used, an excellent border 
 for dishing any kind of entree upon. But the great point is in nicely 
 cooking the potatoes, so as to get them floury, before adding the yolks, 
 butter, &c. 
 
 Capons a la Chipolata. —The capons should be trussed for 
 braizing, and a part of the breast-bone removed, and one pound of 
 pork sausage meat made into farce by chopping three truffles, and half 
 a dozen mushrooms, and adding two yolks of eggs, and mixing with the 
 sausage meat removed from their skins, and one half placed in the 
 breast of each, the skin being made to lap over the same, and skewered 
 down near the back of the neck, or where the neck was cut off. Place 
 them in an oval braizing kettle with a few stock-pot vegetables cut fine, 
 and placed round them. About one quart of water should be added 
 when placing on the fire to braize ; one hour should nicely cook them, 
 fixing the lid on tightly, and letting them simmer slowly for that time. 
 Serve the ox tongue in the centre, and the chipolata ragout (very hot) 
 round them, when sent to table, with the tongue between the capons. 
 
 The Day of the Dinner. —And now supposing this important 
 day to have arrived, the first and necessary thing to do is to look 
 carefully through the Menu, also through the Requisition List, and 
 carefully note if all your things have arrived, and are at hand, and what 
 there is still to prepare, which will be found to be as follows —The iwo 
 fish to mark, croutons for your mushrooms to cut , fresh bread crumbs 
 
 to make for the fillets of whiting, and also for bread sauce, and the ox 
 
 * 
 
 tongue to cook , and croutons to cut for the Palestine soup, and mutton 
 to trim, also the soufilees de poulets au parmesan to prepare. 
 
 Saute of Fillets of Whiting with Oysters en Kari. — Take the 
 fillets from four whitings, cut each in two crosswise, and trim them into 
 uniformity of size and shape ; then season them lightly, and prepare two 
 eggs and two yolks, add a little salt and beat them together. The fillets 
 should have a little flour shaken over them, and then on a plate, with 
 your egg-brush, egg over each half fillet, dipping them in bread crumbs 
 as you do them, and patting them gently between your hands as you do 
 them. And when all are done, with your knife make them into shape, 
 
CROUTONS FOR THE MUSHROOMS. 
 
 65 
 
 and fix the crumbs firmly upon them, and then place sufficient clarified 
 butter on a saute pan to fry them. When preparing them for dinner 
 they should be fried over a sharp fire, and fried of a light brown colour, 
 and dished on a thin border of potatoe-paste, the oysters en kari served 
 in the middle, and the curry sauce served over the oysters and round 
 the fillets, but none on them. Boiled rice should be sent with them. 
 
 Salmon a la Genoise. —Cut up a little stock-pot vegetables very 
 fine, then butter a stock-pot lid or saute pan, and place the slices of 
 salmon in the centre in a uniform manner, then add the vegetables and 
 about three parts of a half pint of stock (second stock), and a glass of 
 wine. Cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and when preparing for 
 dinner put the salmon in a rather sharp oven for half-an-hour, and when 
 dished place the vegetables and any remaining stock in a small stewpan 
 and let simmer till only a few spoonsful remain; and then add this to 
 the Genoise sauce; and, when dishing to send to table, pour the sauce 
 over the salmon, and sprinkle a few capers (very small ones) over each 
 slice of salmon, and serve. 
 
 Bread Sauce. —Cut a few shalots in slices (three sufficient), boil 
 these in about three parts of a pint of milk for a few minutes, then add 
 three tablespoonsful of bread crumbs and a pat of butter; stir for a 
 minute to scald the crumbs (but take care to remove the shalots) 
 before adding the crumbs to the milk, add a little pepper and salt, and 
 then mark with the other sauces. 
 
 Croutons of Bread for Soup. — Cut them the same as you 
 would vegetables for Scotch broth, but a little smaller, about three- 
 parts of a half pint; when cut, fry them in a little clarified butter, 
 after the same manner as bread crumbs, of a light-brown colour, 
 send on napkin to table. 
 
 Croutons for the Mushrooms. —Cut about two dozen round 
 pieces of bread, about the size of a penny piece, and cut out a small piece 
 from the centre of each, and fry them in your frying fat of a light-browm 
 colour. And they should be fixed on two silver dishes with a little 
 batter made with white of egg and flour mixed rather stiff, about six 
 pieces on each side of the dish facing each other; and then dried 
 in the oven or the screen, and placed ready for use. 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 THE HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 
 
 Souffiees de Poulets au Parmesan. —Place three-quarters of 
 a pint of Bechemelle sauce in a two-quart stewpan, then mix two 
 tablespoonsful of superfine flour with a gill of cream and a little 
 milk, strain through a tin sieve, and when the Bechemelle sauce boils 
 add a small pat of butter and stir well into the sauce, then add the 
 flour mixed with the cream, and keep stirring over the fire for a 
 couple of minutes ; then add six yolks of eggs to this batter, removing 
 it from the fire, add the yolks two at a time, and placing the whites of 
 the eggs in a clean pan, taking care there is no yolk of egg with the 
 whites. And when all the yolks are added stir the batter again over 
 the fire for a minute (to partly set but not to cook the yolks), then stir 
 in the white part of a boiled fowl cut into dice into this, with a little 
 fresh-made mustard and a little cayenne pepper, and about two ounces 
 of grated parmesan cheese, stir well in ; and, at the last, place the whites 
 of the eggs in a very clean stewpan or copper bowl, and with a very 
 clean whisk (now you must be most particular that they are clean), or 
 you will spoil the soufflee—and when assured of this whip the whites 
 of egg till they become a firm, snowy compact body; then mix in half 
 at a time lightly into your soufflee mixture, and finally the other half; 
 then fill sixteen or eighteen little fondu cases with this mixture, and. 
 place them in the oven to bake (when your soup and fish have left the 
 kitchen); they should be baked in an oven not too hot; a?id be well 
 giiarded till sent away. Sprinkling them with a little parmesan, grated, 
 before dishing; dish them on patty papers on two small dishes in a 
 pile, and send away very hot. 
 
 The O x Tongue should be boiled off the day previous to the 
 dinner, so as to be quite cold when you trim it; and thereby enabled 
 with a very sharp knife to remove the inner skin, that is, the skin that 
 shows after you have removed its first rough covering, which will cause 
 it to look nice and red, and give it when well-glazed a better appearance, 
 and let it be trimmed for the thick or root part to show nearest 
 the carver; and if trimmed in a circular form it will look best, and 
 leave more room for the sauce and ragout. 
 
 The Haunch of Mutton.—Saw off the shank bone and cut off 
 the brown parts of the skin, and let it go down to the fire in good time 
 
PARTICULARS OF THE DINNER. 
 
 67 
 
 say for three hours. It should slowly roast, and show of a bright gold 
 colour when taken from the fire. It can be papered after the manner 
 of a haunch of venison if necessary, and the paper removed about half- 
 an-hour before serving. But I think it best roasted quite plain, and 
 without any flour being sprinkled over it ; but care should be given, and 
 it should be well basted. Red currant jelly and plain gravy should be 
 served with the haunch. 
 
 SECOND COURSE ROASTS. 
 
 The Snipes and Pheasants. —The pheasants should be put down 
 to roast half-an-hour before the time appointed for the dinner, and a 
 little clarified butter used to baste with ; and the same with the snipes. 
 And before the snipes are put down to roast, the trail or gut should be 
 removed on to a plate, and the sand-bag taken away; then chop it with 
 a little parsley, shalot, and mushrooms, very fine, and mix this with a 
 little brown sauce, and then stir over the fire and cook the same. And 
 when sending the snipes to table, a little toast should be made and 
 slightly buttered ; and over this toast the dressed trail should be spread, 
 and then cut in rounds or squares and a snipe dished on each piece. 
 And some good gravy sent with them, and bread sauce with the 
 pheasants. About a quarter of an hour will cook the snipes. A little 
 good Espagnol, with a glass of sherry boiled in it, is best for the snipes. 
 
 Champignons a la Bordelaise. —Trim and wash in two waters 
 two small baskets of fresh-gathered champignons, and chop a good 
 handful of picked parsley and four shalots very fine ; place the 
 champignons on a good-sized saute pan, and shake a little salad oil over 
 them, and then sprinkle the shalots and parsley over the mushrooms; 
 and when needed fry over a brisk fire, and, when done, strain off the 
 oil ; season well with pepper and salt, and add the juice of a lemon and 
 a little brown sauce, and dish on the dishes on which you have fixed 
 the croustades or rings of fried bread. They should go to table with 
 the second course roast, as marked on the menu. 
 
 Particulars Regarding the Dinner. —As before expressed in 
 
 the first number of this work, it is wise and well to frequently look at 
 
 the Bill of Fare, particularly so before commencing to finish off and 
 
 F 2 
 
68 
 
 THE OVEN. 
 
 serve the dinner, to make quite sure nothing has been forgotten. And 
 now the only matter is the vegetables to see to, which should be all or 
 nearly ready for cooking, so as to cook them forthwith when 
 requested ; and, such being the case, we will suppose the hour to 
 be 5 o’clock, and the dinner hour 8 o’clock punctually. So we will 
 figuratively proceed to enact the part of sending the dinner away as 
 well as putting the finishing touch, and proceeding to cook and arrange 
 as if a real dinner was being prepared to send away; and I will give a 
 heading as we proceed, as follows :— 
 
 The Haunch of Mutton. —Place this at once down to roast, and 
 see your fire in the range is sufficiently made up to last the time required 
 for the haunch of mutton, the pheasants, and snipes ; and take care the 
 mutton is not too close to the fire, or the dripping-pan too near to the 
 range, so that hot coals can fall into the same; and, be it understood, 
 the head kitchenmaid should attend to the roast and the vegetables, 
 subject of course to instructions from the cook. 
 
 The Bain-marie, to Arrange. —Let the hot plate be now made 
 to do its best—that is, make it quite hot; and now place it on the fire, 
 removing only the ragouts and small quenelles, the bread sauce, and 
 also the gravy for the roast; it should be only about one-third full of 
 water (I mean the bain-marie case), and let the soups stand in the 
 same, and take care it is placed where it will be out of the way as much 
 as possible, as it does not require to become suddenly hot or to boil fast. 
 
 The Vegetables.—The spinach can be boiled off and prepared 
 ready for making hot. 
 
 And the three cans of young peas taken out of the cans and boiled 
 for a couple of minutes; then placed in a stewpan with a pat of butter, 
 and a little sugar and salt, and be ready to make hot. 
 
 And the Brussels sprouts can also be boiled off, and placed on a hair 
 sieve ready for making hot when needed. 
 
 And the potatoes, which are to be plain boiled or steamed, should not 
 be put on the fire to cook till a quarter to 8 o’clock. 
 
 The Oven. —See that a fire is in the oven, as we shall need it for 
 the salmon, also for the soufflees, and for other dishes ; also for 
 keeping things hot. 
 
THE BOUDINS OF HARE. 69 
 
 The Frying Lard, to make Hot. —Place this on the fire where 
 it will become slowly hot but cannot burn. 
 
 The Capons, to Dress. —These also should be put on the hot 
 plate and slowly braize for one hour, as before directed, and the tongue 
 can be put with them till it becomes hot; then taken out and glazed, 
 and placed in the screen till needed. The capons should be tuned when 
 placed on the fire, and when they have braized one hour remove them, 
 and place aside till needed, when place on the fire a little before wanted 
 to make quite hot. 
 
 The Pudding a la Duchesse. —This will also take about one 
 hour, so prepare and pour in the raw custard into the brioche, as before 
 instructed, and place on the fire to boil, removing the same when done, 
 and placing again on the fire when needed to get quite hot before 
 serving. 
 
 The Dishes and Plates (both Silver and China).—See that you 
 have all that you require, and what you need to be hot should be placed 
 in the screen. The kitchen cloth should also be placed on the dresser, 
 and the spoons and forks and ladles placed ready for use; tureens and 
 sauce boats also ready. 
 
 The Entrees, to Prepare. —See that the oven is hot, place 
 the fillets of fowl in the oven, and cut the balotines (the round balls) in 
 two, and place them on a saute pan with a little second stock; place 
 these also in the oven, and see that the glaze in the bain-marie is hot. 
 When the bacon over the larded fillets shows brown, remove the same, 
 and then lightly glaze them, letting the oven door remain open ; and 
 when the larding on the fillets shows brown, glaze them a second time, 
 which will make them look more brilliant; glaze also the balotines 
 twice over, then take two of your entree dishes, and on each one place 
 a border of potato paste about one inch wide, and place on this six 
 halves of the balotines at equal distance apart; and then between each 
 two halves place a larded fillet of fowl, which will take six fillets for each 
 entree; dish them both and cover them, and place in the screen to 
 become nice and hot, and you are ready to finish them, keeping the 
 small fillets hot also, but separate at present. 
 
 The Boudins of Hare. —Make your frying fat hot, and when it is 
 
7o 
 
 THE CAPONS TO DISH. 
 
 so fry off your boudins eight at a time. They should be fried off quickly 
 in nice hot fat , by placing eight at a time in a frying basket. As you fry 
 them place them on a sieve, and when all are fried make two more 
 borders of potatoes on the other two entree dishes, making a slight 
 indentation with your finger in the centre of the potato border; then 
 examine your boudins, and cut a little out from the underneath part, so 
 as to make them dish nicely ; they should lean on each other the same 
 as quenelles, and be made to stand firm. Place both in the screen, 
 covering them over, and leaving them till you are ready to finish. 
 
 The Two Fish. —The entrees being dished, place the salmon in 
 the oven with a glass of sherry and a little stock; about half an hour 
 will cook them. And then saute your fillets of whitings of a light gold 
 colour. When done, dish them on a border of potatoes in a flat oval 
 dish, and place in the screen; and, when the salmon is done, dish on a 
 large oval dish, and place in the screen for the present, taking care to 
 keep it thoroughly hot and covered, reserving the essence to boil down, 
 and add to Genoese sauce the same when ready. 
 
 What to give attention to. —And now the entrees being dished, 
 and the fish on their dishes, make due note of the time, and work, 
 so to speak, as to hold your dinner well in hand ; not to be too soo?i 
 with any of your work, and by no means to get into the dilemma of 
 being too late, or hurried, or flurried, in any way. So we will suppose 
 the time 7 o’clock, and there being only the soufflees of poulet to 
 bake, the oven is at liberty to keep any dish hot. And now look to 
 your capons, and, if done, as they should be, remove them from the 
 hot-plate ; also the same with the puddings. Let them remain of the 
 fire tor a time, and now place the ragouts, bread sauce, &x., in your 
 bain-marie case, so that all may get quite hot; and boil off a little 
 rice for your fillets of merlan en kari, enough for a small dish, and see 
 to the haunch of mutton that it is progressing to your satisfaction; also 
 that the vegetables are on the way, and the pheasants and snipes ready 
 for roasting. 
 
 The Capons to Dish.—Place the capons on a baking dish ; also 
 the tongue, seeing if they are nicely done ; if so, glaze them, and let 
 them remain in the oven till the glaze dries on each; and they should 
 
THE TWO FISH. 71 
 
 be glazed twice over, and, when finished, place them on their dish, and 
 keep them hot. 
 
 The Soups.—The small quenelles, with the truffles in them; place 
 about half of them in the clear soup, with about half the small can of 
 Macedoine roots ; let these boil in the soup, and see if it requires 
 a little seasoning (a little sugar and salt), and if so, add the same; 
 also the Palestine soup, look if it is all right, and I think it will also 
 require a little sugar and salt, also a little more cream. And now we 
 will garnish the entrees ; so strain off the ragout Toulouse on a sieve; 
 add to it the remainder of the quenelles, and divide this between the 
 two dishes with the fillets of fowls, and lightly glaze them again, and 
 place three of the small fillets on the top , and place them again in the 
 top part of the screen to keep hot. 
 
 The Boudins of Hare.—Strain off the stock from the peas, 
 and garnish the centre of each dish with a pile of the same ; having 
 seasoned them with a little sugar and salt, cover, and place back in 
 the screen. 
 
 Place the Pheasants and Snipes to Roast.—And now, as 
 the dinner hour approaches, learn from the butler if he will ring the 
 bell for the follows, and who are to carry the dinner to the dining¬ 
 room, and if he has his salad ready. And I will here make the remark 
 that if the butler rings his bell regularly for the follows, and two persons 
 are in attendance to carry away, the dinner is sure to leave the kitchen 
 in a more regular manner than it otherwise would do. 
 
 The Dinner is Called For.—And without any hesitation is sent 
 away, the two soups, and the croustades for the Palestine soup, following. 
 
 The Two Fish.—Place these in the oven till the bell rings, and 
 see that the sauces are very hot, placing them on the hot-plate for 
 a short time, and dishing a small dish of rice, and with your small knife 
 gently remove the skin from each slice of salmon; and have a few 
 small capers by you—and, hark ! the bell. So gently sauce the salmon, 
 pouring the sauce over the same and round it; cover, and send away; 
 and the same with the fillets of whiting, place the oysters in the centre, 
 with some of the sauce ; and the remainder round the fillets, and cover 
 and send away; also the rice. 
 
72 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE. 
 
 The Soufflees de Poulets. —These being prepared, as previously 
 directed, place them in the oven, and close the door, giving them all 
 attention, and see that the salamander is in the range, getting hot, and 
 the second course roast is going on well, basting the same; and see 
 that your frying fat is getting hot, and place the mushrooms to saute to 
 go with the second course roast. And now sauce the entrees, pouring 
 some of the supreme sauce over the ragout, and the rest round each 
 entree, and placing the same on the hot plate for a minute to get hot 
 before sending away ; and, the bell ringing, they are sent. 
 
 And sauce the boudins of hare next, with the Chateaubriand sauce 
 which has the essence of hare in the same; pour some over the peas, 
 and the rest round, and serve 
 
 And now fry off your beignets, and, when done, place on a wire sieve, 
 and sprinkle rather thickly over them some powdered sugar, flavoured 
 with vanilla from the stick or pod, and let them be lightly salamandered 
 and kept before the fire. 
 
 The Vegetables and Removes should be now dished, taking 
 care that a little glaze, a good pat of butter, some sugar, salt, and 
 nutmeg, and a little cream, is added to the spinach, and a nice pat of 
 butter to the peas; place them in the hottest part of the screen till 
 wanted. 
 
 And now dish your removes—the haunch of mutton and the capons 
 being ready—and place the chipolala ragout to come to the boil, and 
 do not sauce till the bell rings; the best gravy should also be ready for 
 the haunch, the red currant jelly also. And now sauce the capons, 
 arranging the chipolala ragout in good order round” the sauce, and the 
 sauce after, but do not pour any over the capons. When sauced send 
 away ; also the haunch and the vegetables ; and thus ends the first 
 course. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Dish the pheasants and the snipes, serving the toast with the dressed 
 trail upon the same under each snipe, and the bread sauce for the 
 pheasants, and best gravy round them, and some in a boat, and finan- 
 ciere for the snipes. 
 
SOUFFLEE DE POULET AU PARMESAN. 
 
 n 
 
 Champignons a la Bordelaise. —These should be now dished, 
 pouring off the oil and adding a few spoonfuls of brown sauce and the 
 juice of a lemon ; dish in the centre of the fried rounds of bread. The 
 pheasants and the snipes all leave the kitchen together, but should be 
 kept nice and hot till the bell rings ; and the mushrooms should be 
 very hot, and served with the roasts. 
 
 The Second Course Removes. —Place the pudding on the fire 
 and let it boil again for a few minutes, aud be sure it is well done before 
 turning out on the dish. 
 
 And the beignets should be dished plain on the dish, and make both 
 sauces, the wine sauce and the red currant sauce, nice and hot before 
 serving, pouring the wine sauce over the brioche pudding, and round 
 and in the centre of the beignets. Sauce at the last thing and send 
 away. 
 
 The Four Sweets or Entremets. —The moulds should be 
 dipped in luke-w r arm water, and their contents turned out on silver 
 dishes or the covers of the entree dishes, and a little pink syrup poured 
 round the cremes of coffee en surprise, and a little plain custard 
 round the pains of apricots, and serve when needed. 
 
 Soufflee de Poulet au Parmesan. —And now that your second 
 course dishes are waiting to be fetched away, give your best attention to 
 the last dishes, and if you find the oven a little too hot place a sheet of 
 paper over the same, which will effectively prevent the soufflee taking 
 too dark a colour ; also leave the oven door partly open ; have two 
 small dishes or silver plates ready to dish them upon; before serving 
 sprinkle over them some Parmesan cheese; dish in two piles, and send 
 away. 
 
 And this ends the dinner. 
 
 Now regarding what is left from the dinner. It is most certainly the 
 cook’s duty to put aside for the morrow’s luncheon or breakfast any 
 remains of dishes which are suitable, using the rough remains for the 
 family supper. 
 
 And the menu, and the requisition list for the above dinner, will be 
 found at the beginning of this month, February. 
 
74 
 
 HOT AND COLD DISHES. 
 
 HOT AND COLD DISHES FOR LUNCHEON 
 AND FOR NURSERY DINNERS 
 
 Soups for Luncheon. 
 
 Mulligatawny Soup. Consomme a la Jardiniere. 
 
 How to make these Soups is given in the earlier pages. 
 
 Hot Joints for Luncheon. 
 
 Roast Loin of Pork with Sauce Robert. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton with Baked Potatos. 
 
 Roast Fowl with Broiled Liam. 
 
 Rum Steak Pudding with Espagnol Sauce. 
 
 Toad in the Hole, of Mutton, English Fashion. 
 
 Broiled Rump Steak with Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Chicken and Ham Pie a l’Essence. 
 
 Entrees for Luncheon. 
 
 Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Mashed Potatoes a la Creme. 
 Stewed Rump Steak a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Fried Calfs Liver and Bacon with Espagnol Sauce. 
 
 Lamb’s Fry with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Stewed Ox Tails with Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 Fritot of Rabbit; Sauce Piquant. 
 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Spinach dressed and plain Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Salad a la Fram^aise. 
 
 Sweets for Luncheon. 
 
 Rice Soufdee Pudding ii la Vanille. 
 
 Baked Plum Pudding a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding with Sultana Raisins. 
 
 Apple Dumplings. 
 
 Apple Tarts. 
 
 Calfs Foot Jelly. 
 
RUMP STEAK PUDDING. 
 
 75 
 
 Roast Loin of Pork with Robert Sauce.—Chop between the 
 joints and remove the rind, and let it slowly roast from i^- to hours, 
 according to size, bearing in mind that pork should be always well 
 cooked. The Robert Sauce is made as follows—-Take a Spanish onion 
 and cut it in two, and cut off the stalk part, and, with a sharp knife, 
 holding the half onion flat on the cutting board, with the left hand, cut 
 it through nearly to the root in uniform slits, say about an eighth 
 of an inch wide, beginning at the right side and finishing at the left. 
 Then turn the half onion round and cut it through in similar-sized slits, 
 and then beginning at the stalk end cut through in the same-sized slits 
 again, which will yield you the half onion cut in dice, and cut the other 
 half the same. Putting the rough parts aside, and placing what you 
 have cut in dice into a stewpan, add to the dice about one gill of malt 
 vinegar, and a spoonful of good stock, and let it keep boiling till the 
 onions in dice are nearly dry, when add J pint of Espagnol Sauce, bring 
 to the boil, and at the last thing before serving mix with the sauce a 
 small teaspoonful of fresh-made mustard. Tomato sauce, and apple 
 sauce are also served, if approved. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton with Baked Potatoes. —Saw off the 
 
 shank bone and trim off any brown spots and what is not needed, and 
 slowly roast it for two hours and a half, and if the leg is a small one 
 about two hours would cook it. Place a tin sheet under it to receive 
 the dripping, and when it has roasted about one hour cut one dozen 
 peeled potatoes, each cut in two, and place them in the tin sheet into 
 which the leg has been dripping; and bake them in the oven of a nice- 
 brown colour, taking care they are not too much done. Serve the leg 
 with some best gravy, and drain the potatoes to free them from grease, 
 and sprinkle a little salt over them and serve in vegetable dish with 
 some best brown gravy round the roast leg. 
 
 Roast Fowl with Broiled Ham. —Roast off a fowl for about f- 
 of an hour, and place round it a few nice slices of broiled ham. Serve 
 with some good gravy and bread sauce, for which see list of dinner 
 sauces in this number. 
 
 Rump Steak Pudding. —Make the suet crust as follows :—Chop 
 half a pound of suet fine, and mix it with one pound of sifted flour, mix 
 
76 
 
 TOAD IN THE HOLE OF MUTTON. 
 
 the two with a half-pint of water into a firm paste. Then cut up into 
 square pieces of about one inch in size, three pounds of rump steak, 
 taking care to use very little fat, and season the same with whole pepper 
 and salt mixed in equal proportions. Then roll out the paste in 
 one piece, and line a three-pint pudding basin with the same (it 
 should be a quarter of an inch thick); and the basin should be well 
 buttered before lining it with the paste; then trim off the surplus 
 paste, and place the meat in : add about half a tumbler of water, 
 and with your paste brush dipped in water wet round the top edge, 
 then roll out the remains of your suet paste into a round piece, 
 cutting it to fit the inside so as to lightly and well cover in the 
 meat; and when firmly pressed upon the meat, well wet the edge of 
 it all round, and then overlap the outside edge upon the inside 
 and both being moistened, cause the two edges of the crust to 
 thoroughly join together; and then tie over it a pudding cloth, col¬ 
 lecting the four corners of the cloth, tie them lightly together on the 
 top. Then place the pudding in a suitable sized stewpan with a 
 sheet of paper folded in four under it, and sufficient water to come 
 half-way up the basin, and let it boil constantly for two hours and a 
 half; when done place it on a dish, tying a folded napkin round 
 it (after the pudding cloth has been carefully removed), then cut out 
 a piece of paste from the centre, the size of a crown piece, and pour 
 into the pudding about three-parts of a pint of thin Espagnol, and 
 putting the piece you cut out back in its place, send it to table. Note: 
 you can also turn the pudding out on to a deep entree dish and pour 
 the sauce round it. 
 
 Toad in the Hole of Mutton.—Cut up a neck of mutton the same 
 as for lamb cutlets (see General Index ); cut off as much of the 
 fat as you can, also the tops of the ribs. Then chop up rather 
 fine 1 lb. of beef suet; and then make a batter as follows :—f- lb. of 
 flour, mixed (after sifting it) with three-parts of a quart of milk; mix 
 with a wire whisk well and smoothly together; then crack six egg into 
 a basin, smelling each one as you crack it; when all right they 
 should be well beaten with a whisk for a couple of minutes, and then 
 beaten into the batter so as thoroughly to mix in the eggs. And 
 
CHICKEN PIE A L’ESSENCE. 
 
 77 
 
 now well season the mutton with pepper and salt, and arrange the 
 meat in a suitable dish, not too large. Then mix the suet with the 
 batter, and pour it over the mutton; it should just cover the same. 
 Then cut up four medium-sized peeled potatoes in slices, which place 
 on the top, and bake in a rather hot oven. About one hour will 
 bake it; and it should, if possible, be kept in the oven till it is 
 wanted. 
 
 Broiled Rump Steak, with Fried Potatoes.—Peel five potatoes 
 of the same size; then cut them in quarters of about the size of quarters 
 of oranges, and with your small knife round off the sharp edges ; then 
 fry them as follows :—Place four tablespoonfuls of clarified butter in a 
 saute pan, and place the potatoes in this (after washing and well drying 
 them in a cloth). Toss the potatoes in the butter; then let them slowly 
 fry in the butter, tossing them over and over now and then, when after a 
 little time they will become a nice light brown colour; and you can 
 readily tell when they are done by pressing a piece between the thumb 
 and the finger. If soft when pressed they are done, but they will take no 
 harm by leaving them on the stove for a few minutes while you broil 
 or saute the steak. And let me observe, if you have not a proper 
 broiling stove it is far better to saute the same in a clean cutlet pan 
 with a little clarified butter than attempt to broil it over a bad stove. 
 You can tell when it is done by placing your finger on it; if nicely 
 done it will feel firm to the touch; and your eyes ought also to tell you, 
 or at least they should greatly assist in so doing. When done, dish it 
 up ; and then pour off the fat, and put a little thin Espagnol in the 
 saute pan, with a little pepper and salt, and when it boils pour it 
 on a nice hot dish, place the steak in the centre, and make a pile of 
 potatoes on each side, with a little bit of butter on the steak, and a 
 little mixed pepper and salt on it also, and send away. 
 
 Chicken Pie a l'Essence.—Cut up two young fowls, when 
 prepared for cutting, and when they have been singed over a piece 
 of paper in a flame, to burn off any hairs or parts of feathers, draw 
 back the legs as far as you can, and cut off the legs and thighs; then cut 
 off the two side-pieces from the breast, and through the pinion bone, and 
 then cut away the central piece of the breast, dividing it from the back. 
 
73 
 
 STEWED RUMP STEAK. 
 
 And now cut off what are termed the drum-sticks from the thighs, and 
 cut the centre in three pieces; the legs also should be removed, and the 
 heart and liver also, and be careful to remove the gall from the liver. 
 All the pieces of fowl should then be neatly trimmed and placed in a 
 suitable sized pie-dish; after which cut about a dozen thin slices of ham, 
 about 2\ in. square, as near as possible. These should be rolled up 
 and placed between the pieces of fowl (taking care to exclude the backs 
 and pinions, then add one gill of best white stock, and make one pound 
 of puff paste exactly the same as for the pigeon pie, and vol au vents 
 cases (for which, see the Index), and let this pie be made and 
 baked in all ways the same as for a pigeon pie. And while baking, 
 the bones and remnants from the fowls should be chopped up and 
 pounded in the mortar, then placed in a stewpan with half pint of 
 water and ditto of white stock, and let simmer till the pie is baked, 
 when it should be freed from every particle of grease, and the pie filled 
 up with the same, and placed beside the hot-plate till needed. And I 
 will add that ij hours ought nicely to bake the same ; and no seasoning, 
 but a little pepper added. 
 
 Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Mashed Potatoes.—Prepare 
 
 a neck of mutton the same as for lamb cutlets (for which, see Index), 
 but as they are for broiling, cut them a nice full size, and place 
 them on a plate ready for broiling. Then put in the oven eight potatoes 
 in their jackets, as it is termed—that is to say, not peeled, but washed 
 clean—they should be of the same size, so as to be all done together. 
 When done cut them in two, and pass the inside through a quenelle sieve, 
 then add a little salt and sugar and a pat of butter, with enough cream 
 to make them nicely adhere together, as very nice mashed potatoes 
 should do. And when the cutlets are broiled, make a pile of mashed 
 potatoes in the centre of an entree dish, and the cutlets neatly dished, 
 slightly leaning on each other round the potatoes, and taking care they 
 have been seasoned with a little mixed white pepper and salt. Serve a 
 little thin Espagnol sauce round them, and send to table. 
 
 Stewed Rump Steak a la Jardiniere. —Take a prime rump 
 steak of about 2-|lbs. weight, and having placed in a suitable saute pan 
 two spoonsful of clarified butter, place the steak in this and nicely fry it on 
 
lamb’s fry. 
 
 79 
 
 each side; then pour off the butter, and add one gill of gravy and one 
 gill of Espagnol sauce, cover it with a lid, and let gently simmer till 
 tender; during which time open a half pint tin of jardiniere vegetables, 
 throw them into a pint of boiling water and let boil two minutes. Then 
 strain and place them in a small stewpan with half a teaspoonful of sugar 
 and the same of salt, also a pat of fresh butter, then add water enough 
 to nicely cover them. Let them slowly stew till nicely tender, then 
 mark it off. And now look to your steak, and if done dish it up ; and 
 then add a little more stock to your sauce—and such should be like thin 
 Espagnol—strain it into a small stewpan and let it boil, skimming off 
 any appearance of grease. And when you serve your steak, pour the 
 sauce over it; then strain off your jardiniere vegetables, and pile them 
 in four piles round the steak, and serve on a very hot dish when wanted. 
 
 Calf’s Liver and Bacon a l’Anglaise. —Cut a dozen scallops of 
 calf’s liver in sizes of about 2% in. wide, and the same number of neat 
 slices of streaky bacon; the liver should be cut about as thick as a 
 crown-piece, and the bacon to match, or a little thinner. Fry the bacon 
 first, taking care it is not too much done, Then dip the scallops of liver 
 in flour on each side, and arrange them in the fat that came from the 
 bacon, frying them in it of a nice light brown colour; and dish them on 
 a border of mashed potatoes, first a piece of liver then a piece of bacon, 
 and so on alternately to the end. Then make sufficient brown sauce 
 hot for the same, to which has been added a spoonful of Worcester 
 sauce and the same of chutney sauce, let these boil together, when pour 
 a little in the centre and the rest round, and serve. 
 
 Lamb’s Fry with Sauce of Tomatoes.—Boil a nice dish of 
 selected lamb’s fry in two quarts of water for ten minutes, then strain it 
 on a sieve and dry it with a cloth. Next, trim away all that is not 
 needed, such as the pith from the sweetbreads and any surplus fat 
 appearing on other parts. Then beat one whole egg and two yolks together 
 in a basin, with a little salt, toss the fry in a little flour. And then with 
 an egg brush lightly with this mask each piece of the fry, and dip them 
 in bread crumbs (patting each piece, to make the crumbs adhere). When 
 all are done, place half at a time in a frying basket, and fry in clean hogs’ 
 lard, taking care the lard is quite hot before commencing to fry. They 
 
So 
 
 souffl£e of rice. 
 
 should be cooked of a bright gold colour, and serve, an Imperial sauce 
 round them. The fry should be piled in a heap in the centre of the 
 dish. For Imperial sauce, see Index in March number. 
 
 Ox Tails and Champignons. —Cut in two pieces each joint of 
 the large pieces of an ox tail (that is when you have cut through the 
 natural joints), place them, when prepared, into a quart of cold water, 
 and let them boil a few minutes. Then strain them off, and throw the 
 water, which is sure to contain a great deal of scum, away; and wash 
 the pieces of tail, also the stew-pan, into which place the pieces of tail 
 again, well covering with water. And now let boil until the pieces of tail 
 are nice and tender, when place them in another stew-pan, but no liquor 
 with them; open a half-pint tin of Champignons, with half-a-pint of 
 Espagnol sauce and a little of the gravy (one gill) in which they were 
 cooked, and, when the sauce is reduced to its proper consistency, season 
 with a little pepper and salt; then dish the ox tails in a pile, and pour 
 the sauce over them; placing the mushrooms in two piles each side the 
 tails, and serve very hot. 
 
 Fritot of Rabbit, Sauce Piquant. —Cut up a rabbit in equal¬ 
 sized pieces, and stew it till tender, taking care the rabbit is a white one ; 
 about three-quarters of an hour should cook it. Only just cover it with 
 water when you put it to stew. When it is done, remove the pieces on to 
 a plate, and reduce the essence to about one gill, and add to this half-a-pint 
 of Espagnol sauce. Then chop a gherkin very fine, and two shalots, and 
 place these to boil in a gill of malt vinegar ; let boil till the vinegar is 
 nearly evaporated, then add the sauce and rabbit essence to it, and let 
 boil till of the right consistency. When preparing to fry the fritot, dip 
 the pieces of rabbit in some flour—or toss them in it—shaking off what 
 flour is not needed ; then dip each piece in the batter, lightly masking 
 the same ; and then, into the hot fat, fry about half at a time, and when 
 finished dish in a pile, and serve, the piquant sauce round them. (For 
 fritot batter, see Index.) 
 
 Soufflee of Rice a la Vanille.—Wash Jib. of rice, having pre¬ 
 viously looked over the same and picked out any soiled grains of rice or 
 black specks among it. Then boil the rice in one quart of water for a 
 couple of minutes, when strain off the water, and cover the rice with 
 
APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 8l 
 
 milk about one inch above the rice, and let very gently boil till quite 
 tender, when stir 2 ozs. of best butter into the rice, and the zest from the 
 rind of one lemon, and powdered lump sugar sufficient to sweeten, with 
 a little vanilla sugar to flavour; then stir in six yolks of eggs two at a 
 time. They should be well stirred into the rice, and if the rice appears 
 too thick add a gill of cream, or more milk; and then place, to become 
 cold, in the larder. Note.—When separating the yolks from the 
 whites of eggs, be very particular to place the whites in a clean basin, 
 and that they are quite free trom any portion of yolks. And, when 
 needed, place the whites in a clean copper bowl; and see that the whisk 
 is very clean also. Then whisk, or beat, the whites till they become 
 white as snow, and a firm compact body, when stir half of them into the 
 prepared rice, and then add the other half, stirred in as lightly as 
 possible, and bake in an oven not too hot. Bake in a pie-dish, and 
 serve hot. You can also serve any kind of fruit sauce, in a boat, 
 with the soufflee. 
 
 Baked Plum Pudding. —Halfapound sultana raisins, Jib. currants, 
 Jib. raisins, Jib. suet, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, Jib. of mixed peel, one nutmeg 
 grated, and one lemon grated, one full tablespoonful of flour, Jib. moist 
 sugar. Mix the above ingredients well together, then crack six eggs, 
 and be careful they are not musty, beat well with a whisk, and mix these 
 in also, adding about one gill of milk. Butter a pie-dish and put the 
 pudding in it, and bake in an oven not too hot, and serve it hot. A 
 wineglass of brandy added to the pudding will improve it. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding. —Cut some bread and butter in 
 slices, remove a portion of the crust, and place a row in a pie-dish, and 
 sprinkle some washed and dried sultanas over. Then place another row 
 with more sultanas, and so on till the dish is full. Then crack four 
 eggs, beat them well, and add one pint of milk with sugar to sweeten, 
 also a little nutmeg; pour this in the dish. Bake in oven not too hot. 
 When done, sprinkle a little sugar (powdered lump) over, and serve. 
 
 Apple Dumplings. —Make ^ lb. of flour and J lb. of suet, chopped 
 
 fine, into a firm suet paste. Peel six apples of moderate size, and with 
 
 a long thin cutter remove the cores, and fill up the hole with sugar, with 
 
 one clove in each apple. Then roll out the paste to the thickness of a 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 APPLE TART. 
 
 crown piece, and cut it in circular pieces of sufficient size to enclose the 
 apples, and stand one apple in each round piece of paste. Then draw up 
 the outer edge to the top of the apple. Moisten the top part with a 
 little water, and evenly press it together so as to evenly and neatly close 
 in the apple. Place them on a buttered baking-sheet, and when all are 
 done mix one yolk of egg with a tablespoonful of water, and with your 
 egg-brush mask each dumpling with this prepared egg, and bake in a 
 slow oven. Shake a little powdered sugar over them, and dish on a 
 napkin and serve. 
 
 Apple Tart. —Make f lb. of flour into short paste by rubbing into 
 it 6 ozs. of fresh butter, with sufficient water added (about one gill) 
 to make it into a paste not too stiff; then peel and quarter some good 
 cooking apples sufficient to fill the dish. Add six cloves and the gratings 
 of the rind of one lemon, and add one gill of water poured over the 
 apples, when add sugar sufficient to sweeten the tart (powdered lump 
 sugar). Then with a little yolk of egg mixed with water moisten the 
 edge of the dish, and on this place a border of paste as thick as a 
 shilling. When you have fixed this on the border roll out the rest of 
 your paste so as to show a nice smooth surface about as thick as an old 
 penny and large enough to cover the dish ; and when you have done so 
 press your thumb round on the edge, and then trim off the surplus 
 paste, and crimp round the paste on the border, then very neatly notch 
 round the same, and make a couple of small holes near the border for 
 the air to escape, and, when the tart is done, finish it in the following 
 manner : place the white of an egg on a plate, and beat it with a fork, 
 then, with an egg-brush well rubbed into the same, mask the top of the 
 tart with the beaten egg; and at once coat this over with powdered lump 
 sugar (not too heavily, but so that the white of the egg does not show 
 through the sugar). Then wash your brush and, dipping the same in 
 water, sprinkle over the sugar (as lightly as possible, in fact, not using 
 more water than will moisten through the sugar). After this operation, 
 dust over the moistened part on the top of the tart a very little more 
 powdered sugar, and then place back the tart in the oven for a few 
 minutes (leaving the oven door open), when the icing will show quite 
 white and somewhat like half-melted snow frozen over, and will, in fact, 
 
SELECTED ENTREES FOR FIRST COURSE. 
 
 83 
 
 look very tempting. It should be left in the oven till it looks dry, when 
 
 it will be ready to serve, hot or cold. If cold, serve some plain custard 
 with it, 
 
 Calf’s Foot Jelly. —Fill in a mould of calf’s foot jelly (not 
 ornamented), made the same as at page 8 of this work, and turned out 
 by dipping the mould in warm water for a second or two ; then, drying 
 the mould, shake it lightly before turning it out on a silver dish. 
 
 And note—Let all jellies have a little rough ice placed round them, 
 with a little water, so as to turn out firmly when they are needed. 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES FOR FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Saute of fillets of fowl a l’Americain. 
 
 Poulets au gratin,—sauce piquant. 
 
 Vol-au-vents of larks a l’ltalienne. 
 
 Fritot of oysters—sauce a l’essence. 
 
 Curry of lobsters a l’lndienne. 
 
 Petits pains de veau aux pois d’asperges. 
 
 Scollops of Fillet of Beef aux Olives Farises. 
 
 Broiled scollops of fillet of beef, with dressed macaroni. 
 
 Croquettes of loin of pork,—sauce Robert. 
 
 Fillets of fowl a l’Americain. —Take eight best quality fowls, 
 and remove the fillets in the following manner :—Split the skin through 
 the centre of the breast, and remove it back on the right and left 
 as far as possible, pulling back the legs towards the breast at the same 
 time to enable you fully to remove the fillets with ease. Then, keep¬ 
 ing your knife close to the breast bone, cut through to the bone on the 
 right-hand side and also on the left, then slanting your knife gently 
 remove the fillets and cut them off at the pinion bone or joint, 
 removing the smaller under fillets ; at the same time arrange them on a 
 plate or dish as you remove them, and taking out the livers place the 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 FILLETS OF FOWL A L’AMERICAIN. 
 
 remains aside for the present; then proceed as follows :—Take your 
 cutlet bat, and having a little watesr in a basin, and having removed the 
 smaller fillets from under the larger, spread out the large fillets one at a 
 time, the thick end towards your right hand. Then, dipping your fingers 
 in water, moisten your cutlet beater and gently pat each fillet so as to- 
 bring its surface level on your cutting board. Now with the edge of 
 your knife almost close to the same cut off the very thin skin that coats 
 each fillet, and, it is needless to say, it should be cut off as thin as pos¬ 
 sible, and when all are done they should be split lengthways (beginning 
 at the thick end) nearly in two, then take some quenelle prepared from 
 the tender part of the legs of fowl exactly in the same manner as for 
 the quenelles of pheasant (see page 15), and mix with this, or 
 half of it, some finely-chopped truffles, four in number, and about 
 eight mushrooms from a canister of preserved ones, and half a handful 
 of picked parsley. When this is well mixed with the quenelle divide 
 it into sixteen parts; and then spread one part between each fillet 
 which you have nearly split in two. It should be spread evenly 
 and each fillet cut into uniform shape, when, having had made some 
 bread crumbs passed through the least coarse wire sieve you have, crack 
 two whole eggs and three yolks of eggs, and mix with these a little 
 salt, and then beat them together with a small whisk, then dip each 
 fillet in a little flour so as merely to coat each one with the dust 
 only, then place it on a plate and with egg-brush mask each side 
 with the prepared eggs and then dip them in the bread crumbs, patting 
 each one between your hands to make the crumbs adhere, and so on till 
 all are finished. Then with your knife pat them nicely into shape, 
 and place them on a saute-plate having on it about an eighth of an 
 inch of clarified butter, then place them in the larder with a round 
 of buttered paper on them. Now prepare the small fillets as 
 follows:—Cut the fillet or strip of skin that runs through each 
 partly away, then with your small knife cut four slanting slits on each 
 and place some rounds of truffle cut very thin, about the size of a three¬ 
 penny-piece, in each slit. When all are done arrange them so as 
 they form a half circle on some thinly-cut fat bacon, spread flat 
 on saute-pan, and arrange them in circular form, then cover them 
 
POULET AU GRATAN. 
 
 85 
 
 with thinly-cut bacon and place in the larder with the fillets. ,The 
 whole of the remains of fowl should be chopped up fine and covered 
 with some best white stock brought to the boil, well skimmed, and 
 allowed to gently boil for four hours. While this is proceeding open 
 a quart can of preserved American tomatoes, add one glass of sherry, 
 half a gill of malt vinegar, and let this simmer till all the moisture is 
 absorbed, when they should be rubbed through a hair sieve and placed 
 in a bain-marie. When the remnants of fowl have boiled the speci¬ 
 fied time it should be strained off and boiled slowly down to a demi of 
 half glaze, taking care the same is well skimmed while doing so. And 
 when ready strain into a bain-marie. Then cut sixteen scallops of 
 streaky bacon into strips two inches long and about as thick as a two- 
 shilling piece, and place these on a saute-pan ready for use. And when 
 about to send for dinner the remains of the quenelle, made from the 
 legs, should be made into two borders on the entree dishes upon which 
 the fillets are to be served, and with a table spoon make a part circle in 
 the centre of each border, and place in the oven to set. Then saute 
 your fillets over a good hot-plate of a light-brown colour, and place them 
 for a minute on a clean cloth, then dish eight on a dish the same as cut¬ 
 lets, and place them covered over in the hot closet or screen. Then place 
 the small fillets to cook in the oven (a very short time will cook them), 
 and fry off your pieces of bacon, which should be afterwards glazed, and 
 when the small fillets are done place a piece of bacon on each large fillet 
 and the small fillets in a circle on the top of the whole. And now your 
 puree of tomatoes should be stirred on the hot-plate with about half the 
 dimi glaze of fowl till it shows a thick pulp, which should be divided, 
 and one half placed in the centre of each dish, and the demi glaze of 
 fowl made boiling hot and poured round the two dishes of fillets, half 
 n each, and send away. 
 
 Poulet au Gratan, Sauce Piquant.— Take three best quality 
 fowls, drawn and prepared for cutting, cut off the legs and thighs in 
 two pieces, then cut off the side pieces containing the pinion (and be 
 careful to cut them of the same size). Then cut away the centre of the 
 breast from the back, which divide into two pieces of the same size, 
 then cut in two pieces the leg, or drum-stick as it is called, from the 
 
86 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT OF LARKS. 
 
 thigh; the drum-stick should have part of the bone cut away near the 
 joint, and running the knife round the flesh part of the drum-stick, 
 cut through to the bone, draw the flesh down to make it plump, leaving 
 about half an inch of the bone showing out from the drum-stick ; the 
 back-bone can be put aside and the pinions cut off. And then look 
 over each piece separately, and trim each neatly into shape; then crack 
 two whole eggs, and add these to three yolks of eggs with a little salt, 
 and beat these together with a small whisk, and with your egg-brush 
 (after all the pieces of fowl have been tossed in a little flour) egg them 
 well, or, in other words, mask them with the prepared eggs. And as 
 you mask them place them into some finely -made bread crumbs (I mean 
 made as small as possible), and pat each piece between your hands to 
 make the crumbs adhere. When all are done arrange them on a saute- 
 pan or small baking-sheet, and run upon each piece of fowl with your 
 butter-brush some clarified butter, then bake them in an oven, not rash 
 in heat, for about three-quarters of an hour, and serve with a sauce 
 made as follows :—Chop up very fine three shalots and two gherkins, 
 add to these one gill of malt vinegar, and let this boil away one-half, 
 then add one pint of finished Espagnol sauce, also a little cayenne pepper 
 and some salt. Dish your pieces of fowl in two piles in two entree 
 dishes upon a little potato paste, and dish the best pieces on the top, 
 and they should be carefully attended to while in the oven, and should be 
 served of a bright golden tint, the sauce served round them boiling hot. 
 
 Vol-au-Vent of Larks a l’ltalienne. — You will require two 
 dozen boned larks for two vol-au-vents which force as follows. Chop 
 four truffles and one dozen preserved champignons, which add to two 
 pounds of sausage meat of pork, with three yolks of eggs, a little 
 herbaceous mixture and a little cayenne pepper. When well mixed 
 together, divide it into twenty-four equal parts; then cut off the legs 
 of the larks, and place one part in each lark, and make each into 
 a neat, plump shape, and arrange them on a saute-pan close together, 
 cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and two or three spoonsful 
 of second stock should be poured over, and bake them in an oven— 
 not too hot—for about twenty minutes to half-an-hour. Then make 
 two vol-au-vent cases (for which see Index), and serve with 
 
FRITOT OF OYSTERS. 
 
 37 
 
 an Italian sauce, made as follows: chop twelve mushrooms and 
 a half handful of picked parsley very fine, which boil with one 
 gill of sherry and one pint of well reduced Espagnol sauce for ten 
 minutes. When the larks are done, drain them on a cloth, and 
 place them then in the Italian sauce, and fill the two vol-au-vent 
 cases with the larks when very hot—but not till they are asked for; 
 they should be served on napkins, with a little fried parsley on each 
 side. Note.—A few whole champignons should be served with the 
 larks, and I consider it best to serve the vol-au-vent plain on the 
 dish, without a napkin , using a little of the inside filling for the out¬ 
 side garniture, such as two larks, with a spoonful of champignon on 
 each side, and some sauce all round each. 
 
 Fritot of Oysters a l’Essence.- —Take four dozen fine oysters for 
 stewing, add to them about one gill of best white stock, and place these 
 in a stewpan, and bring them to the boil. Then strain them, and place 
 the liquor back in the stewpan. Add to this a little white roux to thicken 
 their essence, adding a couple of spoonsful of cream, and let it boil up ; 
 then add as much Bechemell sauce as will prove sufficient for the two 
 dishes of oysters (about three parts of a pint). When boiled together, 
 pass through a pointed sieve into a bain-marie, and mark it off. Then 
 wash your oysters, and be particular to see there are no particles of shells 
 hanging about them. Dry them in a cloth, and place them between 
 two plates. When needed for dinner, make a batter the same as for 
 fillets of soles in the January number of this work. The oysters 
 should then be tossed in a little flour, and afterwards placed 
 in your fritot batter (for which, see page 30), and then fried 
 in some clean hog’s lard made hot for the purpose. Mask each 
 oyster nicely with the batter before dropping them in the hot 
 fat. Fry off about one dozen at a time, and when of a bright brown 
 colour remove them with a perforated skimmer. While frying, they 
 should be gently moved to and fro, so that they may fry of an equal 
 colour. Place them on a wire sieve as you cook them, and when all are 
 fried, and you are about to serve them, dish them in equal piles on two 
 entree dishes, taking care to show the best side outward. A slight 
 pressure with both your hands will make them keep firm in the dish. 
 
88 
 
 CURRY OF LOBSTERS. 
 
 Before serving, see that your white sauce a l’essence is hot, when pour 
 half round each entree, and serve. The above can’be served as a fish 
 to a small dinner, serving them on a flat oval dish instead of an entree 
 dish. 
 
 « 
 
 Curry of Lobsters a l’lndienne. —Take four medium-sized 
 lobsters of the very best quality, remove the body, and the coral, if 
 any, then chop up the shells of the body fine, or in small pieces, and 
 place them in a stewpan, with half-a-pint white stock and half-a-pint 
 of water, to slowly simmer for about an hour, when strain it off and 
 reduce it to about one gill; add a small portion of white roux to 
 thicken it, after which add it to a sauce a l’lndienne (for which, 
 see page 40), then remove the lobster meat from the shells in the 
 following manner :—Place the tails in one end of your rubber (one at a 
 time), and then compress the shell tightly together till you hear the shell 
 crack, when the lobster meat will readily leave the shell, and follow suit 
 with the others. Then take the claws in hand, and remove the smaller 
 part by pulling it out from the shell by gentle pressure, then hold the large 
 part of the claw edgeways on the dresser, and with your chopping knife 
 cut partly through the shell by a gentle blow, when, by this means, 
 you can obtain the meat whole (which you could never do by 
 placing the claw flat on the table and then cutting the shell of the 
 claw, for you would be almost sure to smash and spoil the meat); the 
 other parts of the claw will readily crack by gently striking them and 
 the rest of the lobster meat be readily removed. And now remove the 
 shells and cut up the lobster into neat pieces, and if the tails are cut 
 quite on the slant you will obtain some very nice scollops from them, 
 and the same with the claws. Place them, as you cut them, in a stew- 
 pan, and when all are prepared place a little of your Indian sauce with 
 the lobsters to make them hot in, and reserve the other to pour round 
 them ; you will require, also, a pound of rice boiled to garnish the entrees 
 with, which prepare as follows :—Look over the rice and see there are 
 no black specks and no yellow grains among the rest, then wash the rice 
 in plenty of water, and throw it into three quarts of boiling water and 
 boil it till quite tender, and when it will readily mash between the finger 
 and thumb it will do (but pray remember you do not require it too much 
 
PETITS PAINS OF VEAL. 
 
 89 
 
 done, which would spoil it). When you strain it off pour over it some 
 clean hot water, and when well drained place it in the screen for half an 
 hour, then place half of it in a clean stewpan, which slightly press together 
 with a wooden spoon. Then take a small wine-glass and, dipping the 
 same in water, fill it with rice, pressing it down lightly, and afterwards 
 run your small knife round the glass and turn on to a china dish, and 
 continue this process, cleaning the glass with a damp cloth each time 
 you fill it till you have twenty which you have moulded from the glass. 
 Then place ten of them to form a border in each entr6e dish with a little 
 rice in the centre, which cover over and place in the screen till you need 
 them; and, when dishing up for dinner, make the lobster meat 
 thoroughly hot, and divide it between the two dishes and pour the 
 sauce over and round and serve. A dish of nice loose rice should be 
 served when sent to table. Note.—You can also, by way of a change, 
 model the rice for the borders in the shape of quenelles with two table¬ 
 spoons, each one leaning on the other, and a very nice-looking border 
 they make. And this entree can also be served as one of two fish by 
 dishing it on a flat dish. 
 
 Petits Pains of Veal a la Bechemelle. —Cut the fillet out of 
 a neck of veal, and chop up the remainder and place in a stew-pan, and 
 just cover with water; bring to boil as quickly as you can, and, when it 
 boils well, skim the same, and add a few stock-pot vegetables, and while 
 boiling, proceed with the fillet of veal as follows :—Cut it in two cross- 
 ways, and cut each part into several thin pieces the length of each, and 
 with a dinner knife, holding each piece tightly down on your cutting 
 board. Scrape off the flesh from the sinews of each piece of veal, and 
 when you have done one side turn each piece over and do the other; 
 and when each piece has been so served place the flesh thus obtained 
 in a marble mortar and thoroughly pound the same ; now pass it, or, in 
 other words, rub it through a wire quenelle sieve and place it on a plate 
 or in a basin, and when all is rubbed through add to it one gill of 
 Bechemell sauce, and then add a little at a time, about one pint of very 
 fresh double cream. It should be very gently stirred in with the pestle, 
 and when you have used nearly all your cream, butter a plain dariole 
 mould, and half fill it from the veal you are preparing, and place it in a 
 
90 
 
 SCOLLOPS OF FILLETS OF BEEF. 
 
 • small stew-pan with a little w r ater, sufficient to reach a quarter up the 
 mould. It should boil very gently for a few minutes; then try it (making 
 sure it is done before doing so). It should be a very delicate but compact 
 body, somewhat like a firm custard; and if the specimen before you 
 shows too firm, or very firm, you may be sure it will take more cream—- 
 probably another half-pint—and if you think so, add it, and feel assured 
 that by adding sufficient cream you can arrive at the point you need. 
 And don’t be afraid or hesitate to try it again, and make it, what I say 
 it should be, a very delicate but compact body; and if you feel it will be 
 all right, add a little salt and cayenne pepper. Then prepare eighteen 
 or twenty plain dariole moulds by seeing they are very clean, and running 
 a little salad oil in each, so as to mask the inside, then drain them on a 
 china dish, and then fill these with the mixture of veal which you have 
 prepared (they should not be quite full). When you are going to cook 
 them, cut a couple of rounds of paper and place these at the bottom of 
 a stew-pan, pour in about one pint of water, then place the darioles on 
 this and cover with another round of paper, and let simmer gently for 
 about fifteen minutes. When done, serve asparagus peas in the centre of 
 each (about one-and-a-half pints between them) and mask with Bechemell 
 sauce, about half a pint for each entree, and serve. You can ornament 
 the dariole moulds, before filling them, with a slice of truffle cut very 
 thin, and cut out the size of a threepenny piece, or by a star of leaves, 
 or ring, placed at the bottom of each mould in a central position, or by 
 chopping one truffle fine, then sprinkling a little of the same over the 
 bottom of each, and the sauce should be made from the trimmings. 
 
 Scollops of Fillets of Beef with Olives farci. —Cut in 
 neat scollops the two fillets from two rumps of beef, about seven pieces 
 to an entree should be enough, lard them rather full and mark them in 
 a saute-pan with an onion and a little carrot and a little celery, cut very 
 fine indeed in the centre, and one half pint of stock under them, and 
 a round of buttered paper over them, and mark off till you are ready to 
 finish them. Then make what is termed German quenelle as follows : 
 —Place one gill of white stock on the fire with one ounce of butter in 
 a stew-pan; when it boils add three ounces of sifted flour of best quality, 
 which stir for a couple of minutes over the hot-plate, then add one 
 
BROILED SCOLLOPS OF FILLETS OF BEEF. 
 
 91 
 
 whole egg, which stir well in, then two yolks of eggs, which should also 
 be well stirred in on the hot-plate for about one minute, when remove 
 the same, and place what you have 'made into a small kitchen pan, into 
 which mix one truffle and six cooked champignons chopped very fine. 
 After this proceed to open a bottle (a pint bottle) of olives, and with 
 your small knife peel off the flesh and rind together close to the stone, 
 so as to represent a curl of shavings of wood, and when all are peeled 
 in this manner place a little of your German quenelle in each to fill the 
 place of the stone removed from each. When all the olives are thus 
 prepared let them slowly simmer in a little stock or water for about five 
 minutes, then place them in about three parts of a pint of boiling Espag- 
 nol sauce (see the first number of this work) and mark it off. 
 
 And about forty minutes before dinner place the fillets of beef in the 
 oven, and while preparing or cooking cut sixteen pieces of bread as 
 thick as a crown-piece, and with one of your tin cutters, one size larger 
 than the same, cut out your pieces of bread, which should be fried of a 
 light-brown colour. Then you will require a little potato paste for 
 dishing upon, for which see the first number of this work. And finally, 
 give your attention to the fillets of beef, and when you see they are 
 nearly done place them in a clean saute-pan with a little of their own 
 essence under them, and run a little best glaze over them and place 
 back in the oven to bring up the larding ; and while they are finishing 
 strain off the stock from the vegetables and run this down to a glaze, 
 and mask the scollops with this for their second glazing. Then make 
 two borders of potatoe paste in two entree dishes (in the centre of them), 
 and on this dish your scollops, and place a round of fried bread 
 for each scollop to rest upon ; be also particular to commence to dish 
 towards your right hand, and then go right round to your left, and at the 
 last thing place the olives in the centre of each dish, and your hot 
 sauce round and in the centre of each (but not over) and serve. 
 
 Broiled Scollops of Fillets of Beef, with dressed 
 Macaroni. —Boil i lb. Naples macaroni till tender, and cut it in 
 inch lengths, and place in stew pan ; then reduce to a half glace 
 J pint of best brown stock ; pour this over the macaroni, and sprinkle 
 over this two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan cheese and a little 
 
92 
 
 CROQUETTES OF LOIN OF PORK. 
 
 cayenne pepper, and make this slowly hot. Then cut six or eight 
 scollops of fillet of beef, not too thick ; when nicely broiled and dished 
 pcur the prepared macaroni round, and serve. 
 
 Croquettes of Loin of Pork, Sauce Robert. —Take the 
 remains of cold roast pork, cut them into dice, and add them to some 
 reduced Espagnol sauce, with a piece of glaze in the same; place to 
 become cold, then make into balls of about one inch and a quarter 
 in diameter; and then break one whole egg and one yolk of egg. 
 Mix these with a little salt, and dip your croquettes in this, then into 
 some finely made bread crumbs, and when ready fry in hot fat, dish 
 and serve the following sauce; cut an onion in two, then divide it 
 into small dice, boil these in some best malt vinegar (i gill) and when 
 the vinegar is nearly boiled away add to the onions one gill of Espagnol 
 and stir in half a teaspoonful of fresh made mustard; make quite hot, 
 and serve, pouring the sauce round the croquettes. 
 
 Note.— The croquettes should be dished on a little potato paste. 
 
 Selected Entrees will be continued after Bill of Fare for March, in March. 
 
93 
 
 Portable Gas Stove. 
 
 Galantine Press. 
 
 Ice Pudding Moulds. 
 
95 
 
 Dariole Moulds to hold a Gill. 
 
 Dariole Moulds to hold about a Gill. 
 
 Dariole Moulds. 
 
 
 French Tartlet Pans. 
 
 Salamander for Glazing, also for Colouring Cheese, &c. 
 
 Meat 
 
 Skewers. 
 

 
 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 (SAY FOR MARCH 6th). 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 (See Notice, page 98.) 
 
 ( Two Sot/ps.) 
 
 Mock Turtle a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Consomme de Volaille a la Julienne. 
 
 ( Two Fish.) 
 
 Darioles of cream of Haddock en matelotte Normande. 
 
 Plain boiled Turbot with Lobster Sauce. 
 
 (Four Entries.) 
 
 Two of Heart Sweetbreads of Veal, a lTmperial. 
 
 Two of Compotes of Pigeons a la Royal. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Fowls and Tongue with Stewed R'ce a l’Ess:nce. 
 
 Roast Saddle of Mutton, a l’Anglaise. 
 
 2nd Course. 
 
 Roast Quails. Roast’Wild Ducks. 
 
 (Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Stewed Celery a l’Espagnol. 
 
 (Two Removes.) 
 
 Rice Cake a l’Ancienne. 
 
 Pudding a la Celestine. 
 
 (Four Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Two Jellies of Oranges au Marasquin. 
 
 Two Cremes Diplomatique. 
 
 {Savoury Entremets.) 
 
 Two Bonnes Bouches au Parmesan a 1*Albion. 
 
 (Table Cote .) 
 
 egetables in season, Salad, and Sauces. 
 
 H 
 
9 8 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Notice.—Before giving the Requisition List for the Menu above, we 
 beg to say that in this number we have given the list of dishes, and 
 instructions how to make the same, for two first-class dinners for sixteen 
 or eighteen persons; and which, if divided, would make four small 
 dinners for eight or ten persons, as well as giving scope for any lady or 
 her cook to substitute other dishes for what are above given; thus 
 offering the choice of a very select number of dishes both for study and 
 practice for the month of March. 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and veal, with no bones; 
 two calf’s feet; one ox tongue ; two pound slice of veal; two pounds 
 gravy beef; six fine heart sweetbreads of veal; one saddle of mutton 
 to roast. The soup-meat, calf s feet, slice of veal, ox tongue, to be in 
 the kitchen on the morning of March the 4th; the rest on March the 
 5th early ; also half a calf’s head, three pounds of loin of mutton. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 One medium-sized turbot, to boil; one very fresh lobster, with live 
 spawn; three medium-sized haddocks, filleted; eighteen oysters, for 
 stewing; eighteen prawns ; the bones from the haddock to be sent with 
 the haddocks and the lobster, live spawn, the oysters and prawns, and to 
 be in kitchen by nine o'clock on morning of the 5th, the rest on the 
 6th. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Three young fowls, for boiling; eight boned pigeons ; two pounds 
 of pork sausage meat; eight quails ; three wild ducks, to roast. The 
 eight boned pigeons and two pounds of pork sausage meat, also two 
 old hens, for soup, to be in the kitchen by nine o’clock on the 
 morning of the 5th. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Six carrots ; six turnips ; sixteen heads of white celery ; three quarts 
 of Brussel sprouts; twelve pounds of potatoes, same size; half a 
 bunch of parsley ; twelve white onions; one basket of sea-kale; one 
 salad ; three quarts of young peas, in tin cans ; twelve lemons ; eighteen 
 
MOCK TURTLE. 
 
 99 
 
 oranges; some basil and marjoram, parsley and lemon thyme, and 
 a few bay leaves; eighteen pippins, for stewing; one quart of 
 asparagus peas. To be in the kitchen on the morning of the 5th. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 Two pots of red-currant jelly ; one pot of apricot jam; one pound 
 of Carolina rice; one stick of Vanilla; one bottle of truffles; two 
 cans of mushrooms; half a pound of Parmesan cheese; one pound 
 of cherries (preserved) ; half a pound of mixed lemon and orange 
 peel; half a pound of the best pied de veau gelatine ; four pounds 
 of salt butter; two pounds of fresh butter; two quarts of fresh cream ; 
 two quarts of milk; three pounds of powdered sugar ; one bottle of 
 sherry; two pounds of lump sugar, in one piece; one quart tin of 
 preserved tomatoes ; half a bottle of brandy; one pound pot of black¬ 
 currant jam; one half pound of black-currant jelly; two half quarterns 
 of stale bread, one day old. Three pounds of cut ham. 
 
 Prepare the stocks and foundation sauces in accordance with the 
 instruction given in the first pages of this work ; and we beg to say 
 that we shall vary our plan of proceeding in this March portion in such 
 a way that any one can readily make her own menu from the selection 
 that will be given, commencing with the soup, then the fish, and so on 
 in regular rotation, the same as in the menu already given in the 
 previous numbers, but offering greater variety, which will be readily 
 apparent as we proceed, there being two dinners instead of one. 
 
 FOUR SOUPS. 
 
 Mock Turtle a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Ox Tail a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Puree of Carrots a la Crecy. 
 
 Consomme a la Julienne. 
 
 Mock Turtle.—Take half a calf's head; remove the tongue and 
 the jawbone, also the offensive bones which are found therein ; and cut 
 off the ear, and remove the brains, and let the half head soak in warm 
 water for an hour. Cut the inside of the ear away ; then place the half 
 
 head to boil in about four quarts of water, with the tongue and ear. 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 MOCK TURTLE. 
 
 When boiling, take care to skim thoroughly, and let boil very slowly 
 till tender; (this will take about two hours). When this is done, let it 
 remain till next day in its own liquor, or the water in which it was 
 boiled. This will cause the meat on the head to bleach, and, in fact, 
 become quite white in colour, a result which is very desirable to be 
 obtained. 
 
 Now place one quart of best stock, and three pints of stock from 
 the head, to boil; and, while doing so, cut up the white part of one 
 head of celery, three large onions, and the yellow part of two carrots, 
 which fry in a little clarified butter, and, while frying, cut up in shreds 
 a good slice of raw ham, which add to the roots, and to these add a 
 small handful of dried basil, with half that quantity of marjoram; also 
 a large bouquet of thyme and parsley and bay leaves, tied, with six 
 shalots cut up. Let all these fry together till slightly brown, when chop 
 up a large good handful of brown roux; then add to the fried roots and 
 herbs one pint of your boiling stock, which you have put on the fire. 
 Stir well together, and then add more boiling stock, sufficient to make 
 five pints of soup. When this boils, place it where it can gently 
 simmer, and the fat can rise and be removed. It should slowly simmer 
 about one hour. 
 
 Then strain it through a wire sieve to keep back the vegetables and 
 herbs ; then pass it through a tammy cloth, and put it in a stewpan 
 again to boil; when reduce to half glaze any of the remaining stock* 
 and add it to the soup ; now cut off the skin from the tongue, so that 
 no white part shows upon it. Then cut it into pieces three-quarters of 
 an inch square, and so with the best part of the ear; also cut off as 
 close to the bone as possible (and in one piece) the meat from the half 
 head. Then you will see where you can also cut a few nice lean 
 scollops, which prepare, to match with those cut from the tongue. 
 Then trim the large piece, and cut therefrom what is needed for the 
 soup (reserving the best part to come in for an entree on another day, 
 which should be boiled in a little second stock, and put in the larder. 
 
 Now place the meat in the soup with half a tumbler of sherry, skim 
 and bring to the boil, adding a little cayenne pepper and salt, and 
 if right for thickness, mark it off as ready in a soup bain-marie. 
 
OX TAIL SOUP A LA JARDINIERE. 
 
 IOI 
 
 Ox Tail Soup a la Jardiniere. —Take a large ox tail, and cut 
 a little below where each sign of the joint shows, but do not cut quite 
 through. Then take your large chopping knife, and, fixing it in the 
 centre of each already divided joint, strike the back of the knife with 
 the flat part of the cutlet chopper, so as to cut the bone in two. 
 
 When all the large pieces are thus cut, in the same manner, again 
 cut in two or four pieces each large piece; then put into a stewpan 
 all the pieces, cover well with cold water, and bring to the boil, when a 
 large quantity of scum will rise. The whole of this water should be 
 thrown away. The pieces of tail well washed, when again cover them 
 with more fresh cold water, about two inches, and let boil till tender; 
 but care should be taken to skim this well, for a large quantity of scum 
 is sure to rise from the ox tails. While the ox tails are cooking, peel 
 two turnips, and smoothly scrape two large carrots, and, with your 
 Jardiniere scoop, cut out from these as many round balls as you can ; 
 prepare also half a pint of button onions in the following manner : with 
 your small knife cut off the top and bottom of the onions, and put them 
 in boiling water, and let them boil for two minutes after chis; strain 
 off, and place in a small basin of cold water, and strain off again, and 
 then with the finger and thumb remove the outside brown skin, also the 
 first part of each onion. 
 
 Then cut up the white part of a leek and one head of celery into 
 pieces that will match with your round pieces of carrot and turnip; and 
 in about one quart of boiling water place the cut carrots and turnips, leek 
 and celery and onions; throw into the same a lump of salt, and let them 
 boil up once, when strain off and place in cold water. Then measure two 
 quarts of best brown gravy in a stewpan, and in this put your prepared 
 vegetables, and if the pieces of tail are done, which will be the case if 
 nice and tender , take them out of their gravy, and, after placing them in 
 cold water, place these pieces on a hair sieve ; trim off the fat (the 
 greater portion); and put in the best gravy, bring to the boil, and then 
 let simmer till the vegetables are done ; add a little sugar and salt, and 
 mark off. 
 
 Note .—This soup, if the Jardiniere roots are prepared in the manner 
 herein shown, will be found a most excellent soup, and very different 
 
102 
 
 JULIENNE SOUP. 
 
 indeed from what it would be if made from preserved roots from the 
 tin canisters. A great point of economy can be arrived at by using 
 two ox tails, and you can, by keeping the large pieces whole, obtain one 
 good entree from the same, and use the small pieces for the soup. 
 
 The large pieces can be egged, and bread-crumbed, then fried and 
 served with tomato or piquant sauce, or en Haricot , preparing the roots 
 as for the ox-tail soup (excluding the celery and leek), and letting the 
 carrots and turnips and onions stew together in brown sauce and a 
 little stock ; and when tender, adding the large pieces of ox tail, serving 
 the vegetables in the centre, and sauce over the pieces of tail. 
 
 Carrot Soup a la Crecy. —Wash and scrape eight large carrots, 
 and, with a sharp knife, slice off all the red part, and cut up very thin 
 three large onions, and the white part of one head of celery. Let these 
 boil in two quarts of water, with a little salt in it, a few minutes. Then 
 strain off, and place the same in a stewpan, with a quart of best white 
 stock and a pint of water, and let boil till very tender. Then strain off 
 the stock from the carrots, and pound them in the mortar till they 
 become quite a pulp, then place back in the stewpan with another pint 
 of white stock till you can judge, by placing a little between the thumb 
 and finger, if it is very soft, and tvill easily rub through the tammy 
 cloth. Let your assistants rub it through, when it should be again 
 brought to boil, a little sugar and salt being added, and then place 
 in soup bain-marie and mark off. Small croutons of fried bread should 
 be served with it, and about one gill of cream added at the last moment 
 is an improvement to this soup. 
 
 Julienne Soup. —Cut one fine carrot, when scraped, into uniform 
 pieces, in lengths of a little over one inch. Then, with a small, sharp 
 knife, cut them into thin bands resembling shavings, but a little thicker. 
 Cut off all the red part from each piece of carrot; cut these into shreds 
 as fine as possible, then peel a good sized turnip, and prepare this so 
 as to cut it also into shreds of about the same lengths as the carrot has 
 been cut. 
 
 Cut two onions, each into two pieces, and separate the layers, and 
 cut these also into shreds. Do the same with the white part of a leek. 
 Split it into two, and then cut into shreds; and the same with the white 
 
THE CREMES OF HADDOCK. 
 
 103 
 
 part of a few stalks of celery. Mix altogether, and throw them into a 
 quart of boiling water. When the water again boils, strain off, and then 
 throw a little cold water over the same, and when cold put them into 
 two quarts of clear brown gravy, and bring slowly to boil. 
 
 Then skim this, and when the vegetables are done, and the soup has 
 been well skimmed, mark it off, previously adding a little sugar and 
 salt. 
 
 Note .—The French generally fry Julienne roots in a little butter till 
 slightly brown ; but the above plan is best, and will aid to make the 
 soup bright; while those fried in butter are apt to dull the same. 
 
 THE FISH. 
 
 Darioles of Cremes of Haddock, en Matelotte Normand. 
 
 Plain boiled Turbot, with Lobster Sauce a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Fillets of Soles farcie, a la Cardinal. 
 
 Slices of crimped Cod Fish, au four a la Hollandaise. 
 
 The Cremes of Haddock. —Cut the fillets from three very fresh 
 haddocks of good size; then scrape, with a knife, the white part 
 of the fish from the skin ; pound this well in the mortar, and rub it 
 through a wire quenelle sieve, and remove the same on to a plate ; 
 and then take sixteen plain Dariole moulds—see they are perfectly 
 clean—and pour a little salad oil in each, which rub with your finger 
 over the inside, or some clarified butter. 
 
 Then proceed to finish the cremes as follows : place the prepared 
 haddock in the mortar, with one gill of Bechemel sauce, mix these 
 well together; then take one pint of very fresh double cream, and stir 
 this a little at a time into the pounded haddock, so as to make the 
 mixture amalgamate well together; add a little salt and cayenne 
 pepper, and when you have used about three parts of the cream, then 
 half fill one of your dariole moulds with some of your mixture, and 
 steam this in a small stewpan by placing a little water round the dariole 
 mould, and letting boil gently for a few minutes; then try it (as we say 
 in kitchen parlance), which is done by pressing your middle finger on 
 that which is inside the dariole mould, and, if somewhat firm to the 
 touch, turn it out on a platejind closely examine the same. It should 
 
PLAIN BOILED TURBOT. 
 
 I04 
 
 be like a nice, firm custard ; furthermore, should it prove somewhat too 
 firm, more cream should be added till the right point of firmness is 
 obtained. 
 
 Then be very particular in tasting the same, and mind it is not too 
 salt. These cremes, whether of flesh, fowl, or fish, are certainly the 
 triumph of modern culinary art, and should enlist or obtain a cook’s 
 best attention. Nothing that has ever been sent out of a kitchen is 
 equal to these dishes in excellence and economy, and, in culinary 
 dainties, I have done more to make them known than any other writer 
 on gastronomy. 
 
 Having shown how excellently they are made from beef, mutton, 
 lamb, poultry, and game, we shall also proclaim their excellence when 
 made from all kinds of fish. 
 
 Being satisfied that the mixture in the mortar is quite satisfactory, fill 
 sixteen or eighteen buttered dariole moulds nearly full. Mark them off 
 in a stew-pan with a sheet of paper folded in two ; and, when you cook 
 them, place about one pint of water round them, and let them stew 
 slowly for about ten minutes; when nicely firm to the touch they will 
 do; and, when dished, serve a ragout en matelote Normand in the 
 centre, and the sauce round and over them. (The ragout and sauce 
 will be treated of under the heading of Sauces and Ragouts 
 further on.) The darioles can be garnished, if you please, with truffles. 
 
 But chop up the remains of the two haddocks and cover them with 
 stock, adding one onion cut up, and also add a bouquet of thyme and 
 parsley; let stew for an hour; then strain this, and reserve the same 
 for sauce en matelote. 
 
 Plain Boiled Turbot.—Take a-medium-sized turbot; cut it down 
 the centre of the back, with two slight gashes on each side of the centre 
 cut; rub the white part of the fish with the juice of a large lemon ; 
 then place it in a turbot kettle, cover it well with water (about four 
 inches above the fish), and add about half-a-pound of best salt, and 
 let it soak in this till ready to boil; and, thirty minutes before the 
 dinner hour, place on the fire ; when coming to the boil, skim it well; 
 and when it fairly boils, remove it from the fire. 
 
 Then place it aside, with the cover closely fixed upon the same, till 
 
SLICES OF CRIMPED COD FISH. 
 
 105 
 
 you are ready to dish it up ; but it is well to place it again on the fire 
 to make it quite hot before serving. Two boats of lobster sauce should 
 be sent to table with it, to make which, see Sauce List further on. 
 
 Fillets of Soles farci a la Cardinal. —Order four soles, 
 filleted, and two fine whiting, with the bones of each fish to be 
 sent with the fillets ; trim the fillets of soles slightly, to make them 
 equal in size; then scrape off the white part from the fillets of 
 whiting, and pass this through a wire quenelle sieve, and make it 
 into quenelle, in all particulars the same as for quenelle of pheasant 
 (described in the first number), but substituting whitings for pheasants, 
 and mixing into the same about three tablespoonsful of live spawn 
 rubbed through a hair sieve, moistening the same with a few drops of 
 water, to make it go through the sieve easily. 
 
 When this is well mixed in the quenelle, add a little anchovy essence, 
 cayenne pepper, and salt; and then neatly farce the fillets, placing an 
 equal quantity between each fillet, folding them over so as one end 
 reaches to the other, and, smoothing the edges, place them as you do 
 them on to a saute-pan in which are a few spoonsful of clarified butter. 
 When the fillets are all arranged, with your butter brush place a little 
 butter over each fillet; then put a round of paper over them, and mark 
 off. When needed they should be put into a tolerably hot oven, adding 
 a wineglass of stock or water. They will take about a quarter of an 
 hour to cook ; and to tell if they are nicely done, place your finger on a 
 fillet; and, if firm but tender, they will do; the eye, also, should assist 
 you, for they should look creamy, and the farce between them should 
 show quite red. 
 
 The bones from the fish should be chopped quite small, and about 
 one pint of half-second stock and water put with them, also an onion 
 and a bouquet of thyme and parsley ; it should boil for about one hour, 
 and the essence reserved for the cardinal sauce (see Sauces in the list 
 for each Menu). 
 
 Slices of Crimped Cod Fish, au four, a la Hollandaise. 
 
 —Place four prime slices of cod fish on a buttered saut6-pan, and with 
 an egg-brush run over each slice of fish a little clarified butter made 
 warm. Cover these with a round of buttered paper and place under 
 
io6 
 
 HEARTBREADS OF VEAL A L’lMPERIAL. 
 
 them about one gill of stock. They should be cooked in a rather hot oven, 
 for about twenty minutes, if your oven is in good order. Dish them 
 plain on the dish, and pour any little moisture on the sautApan over 
 them, and a Hollandaise sauce round them (see sauce list), and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 To make sure the fish is done, place your finger on the fish near the 
 central bone, and if by a little pressure it readily leaves the bone you 
 can be sure it is done. All fish dressed au four , if duly attended to, is 
 most excellent, because none of its goodness is wasted, but it requires 
 a sharp oven to concentrate its juice; and if not a good, sharp oven its 
 own moisture will run from it, but if a nice hot oven any fish dressed 
 this way is first-class. 
 
 FOUR ENTREES. 
 
 Heart Sweetbreads of Veal a lTmperial. 
 
 Compote of Pigeons a la Royal. 
 
 Petits-pains of Mutton a l’Espagnol. 
 
 Kromeskys of Fat Livers a la Russe. 
 
 The above entrees are meant to be what are termed double entrees or two 
 of one kind. 
 
 Heartbreads of Veal a lTmperial. —Take six fine heartbreads 
 of about the same size, and having soaked for about one hour, to free 
 or disgorge any blood remaining about them, boil them slowly for 
 about fifteen minutes in water, and place them in cold water for ten 
 minutes, then dry them on a cloth to free them from any pith, making 
 a slit of about one inch at the side of each, then with your small knife 
 cut round the inside (so as to form a kind of purse), taking care not to 
 cut through. Then fill up the holes thus made with some quenelle of 
 fowl and veal in which has been mixed a handful of dressed mushrooms 
 and about six truffles. 
 
 Chop these very fine, and, well mixing the same, divide the quenelle 
 into six parts, and put one part into each sweetbread. Then with some 
 small twine and a small packing-needle close the hole in each bread by 
 passing the needle twice through (and leaving a loop by which when 
 needed you can withdraw the string). Now crack two whole eggs and 
 two yolks of eggs ; mix these well together, then rubbing a little flour 
 
COMPOTE OF PIGEONS. 
 
 107 
 
 over each bread, egg them and bread-crumb them, taking care to 
 well cover them with bread-crumbs; afterwards place them on a 
 saute-pan, and run about a spoonful of clarified butter over the surface 
 of each bread ; cover with a round of buttered paper and mark. From 
 the quenelle made to farce the breads enough should be made to form 
 six spoon quenelles (ornamented with truffles) to go in between the 
 sweetbreads, but these should be plain excepting the ornamentation. 
 
 When preparing them for dinner, they should be placed in an oven, 
 not too hot, for about half-an-hour, taking care to keep them of a light 
 gold colour, adding a little more butter; and when nicely gratinated, 
 remove them and dish up on prepared potato paste, with three 
 ornamental quenelles for each dish, and, at the last thing, pour round 
 an Imperial sauce, with which mask the quenelles, and serve. 
 
 Note .—The quenelle used should be made from fowl or veal, as for 
 quenelles of pheasant (see page 123, and for the Imperial sauce, see 
 page 125) • and the fillets from the old hens, and slice of veal should 
 used for the quenelle. 
 
 Compote of Pigeons aux Champignons a l’Essence.— 
 
 Having ordered and received six fine pigeons, boned, which should be 
 of equal size, and their bones; also the livers, and two pounds of pork 
 sausage meat, proceed as follows :—Rub the sausage meat through a 
 wire quenelle sieve, and, with an iron spoon, remove it on to a plate; 
 then chop up eight preserved mushrooms and two truffles and the 
 pigeons’ livers ; add these to the sausage meat, with a little cayenne 
 pepper and half a teaspoonful of herbaceous mixture. 
 
 Mix all well together with two yolks of eggs; then cut the pigeons— 
 each one in two, by cutting lengthwise through the breast, right 
 through the centre, and the same through the back (cutting off the 
 pinions). Then divide your prepared sausage meat into twelve equal 
 parts, and cut off any objectionable little parts from the pigeons, 
 cutting off the feet, and reserving the same, and tucking the thigh part 
 inside. Then place in the centre of each half of a pigeon one part of 
 the prepared and divided sausage meat; gather these into balls, and 
 tie each round in some calico kept for this purpose, one piece of calico 
 taking about four halves of pigeons, or in partly worn-out napkins. 
 
I08 KROMESKYS OF FAT LIVERS A LA RUSSE. 
 
 When all are tightly tied up into round balls, then chop up the 
 pigeon bones ; place them in the bottom of a two-quart stew-pan ; add 
 to these half-a-pint of first stock (do not place any vegetables), and 
 when this boils, place on the top your halves of pigeons which you have 
 tied up, and let them steam in this for half-an-hour slowly. Then 
 remove them, and dip them in cold water, so that you can handle 
 them. 
 
 After this tie them up again quite tight, and place them in the 
 larder to become cold; then look to the essence from the pigeons’ 
 bones, add half-a-pint of brown sauce and a little gravy, and let 
 simmer very gently for another half hour, then strain it off and reduce 
 it to its proper consistency, skimming the same. The proper consistency 
 of most brown sauces is the same as that of thin Espagnol sauce or 
 single cream. Mark this, and serve round the pigeons when dished 
 and ready for table, and note when an entree is marked a /’essence ; keep 
 the flavour as natural as possible, as in this instance. When serving the 
 pigeons, make hot, glaze them, and serve with mushrooms in centre 
 and the essence round them, with one of the feet in each. 
 
 Kromeskys of Fat Livers a la Russe. —Take two small tins 
 of preserved fat livers (open the tins with a knife made for this purpose); 
 make the tins warm, and carefully remove the livers without breaking 
 them; wash and dry them, and then cut them up in square dice a little 
 less than a quarter of an inch in diameter, and chop four truffles and a 
 dozen dressed champignons, not too fine. Then reduce one pint of 
 Espagnol sauce to one-fourth its original quantity, add a piece of best 
 glaze to this, about twice the size of a walnut, add a little cayenne 
 pepper and salt, and then with a small wooden spoon carefully stir into 
 the reduced sauce the cut-up fat livers and the chopped truffles and 
 mushrooms. 
 
 Turn this on to a china dish and make them into a square three- 
 quarters of an inch thick, and place on the ice or in the larder to get 
 cold, and when so, and quite cold, they should be cut into equal size 
 pieces as big as an ordinary size wine cork ; then make them into 
 shapes of this description, after which cut a piece of paper that is 
 large enough to wrap round one of them. 
 
FOUR REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY. I 09 
 
 Then take about one pound of firm fat bacon (and cut it into pieces 
 double the size of the cut paper), and cut with a sharp knife twelve 
 pieces of the fat bacon, which should not be thicker than a sixpence, 
 and by cutting each piece in two will give you twenty-four pieces, each 
 piece large enough to fold round one of the kromeskys, and twenty-four 
 kromeskys are the number required. As you fold the thin slice of 
 bacon round each one dip the ends in a little flour and arrange them 
 on a dish. Then prepare a frying batter (for which see the first number 
 of this work), and when preparing them for dinner have some clean 
 hog’s lard nice and hot, and dip the kromeskys one at a time in the 
 batter, and as you dip them drop them into the hot fat. Fry off eight 
 at a time, and as you fry them stir them lightly to and fro with 
 your frying-spoon ; they should be fried of a light-brown colour, and 
 when all are fried, keep them on a wire sieve till ready for dishing. 
 
 After frying the kromeskys, fry also a double handful of fresh 
 parsley from which the green stalks have been picked, and, washing 
 the same in cold water, squeeze the water from the same. Place 
 this in a wire frying basket, and, seeing that your fat is not too hot, 
 dip the basket in the same and fry it off, taking the precaution to 
 place your finger on the parsley to feel that it is crisp, and if not so 
 give it another dip in the fat and fry it a little longer. But it is 
 best to fry it by one dip in the fat, which can always be accomplished 
 if you see that your fat is nice and hot before you fry it. The 
 kromeskys should be dished on napkins or paper in a nice pile, twelve 
 in a dish, and your fried parsley placed in two piles on each dish. They 
 should be sent very hot to table, and they can be made of fat livers 
 of poultry and turkeys, cooking the same, and proceeding the same as 
 with the preserved fat livers of geese. 
 
 FOUR REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY. 
 
 Fowls and Tongue with stewed rice a l’Essence. 
 
 Roast Saddle of Mutton a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Fillet of Beef a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Veal and Ham Pie, aux Fines Herbes. 
 
no FILLET OF BEEF A LA JARDINIERE. 
 
 Fowls and Tongue with Stewed Rice.-—Throw | lb. of 
 Carolina rice into three quarts of boiling water, let boil for two minutes, 
 and strain on hair sieve; then place three nice young fowls, trussed for 
 boiling, in an oval kettle for braizing ; add one quart of stock to 
 the fowls. Then look over the rice and free it from any specks 
 or soiled grains, and then put it along with the fowls, and bring 
 to the boil quickly; let simmer very gently for three quarters of an 
 hour. Then trim a tongue (dressed the day previous) and cut the 
 prime part into round scollops about the size of a two-shilling piece 
 (reserving the rough parts for other purposes), dish your fowls, and 
 make sure they are nicely done. 
 
 Then place the rice that has been stewing with the fowls into a 
 smaller stewpan, and season with a little salt and cayenne pepper; add 
 to this your scollops of tongue. The rice should show loose in its 
 liquor, and no ways clammy. When serving the fowls mask them with 
 Bechemell sauce, then place the stewed rice round them arranging with 
 a fork the scollops of tongue, so that they show uniformly and equally 
 among the rice, and serve. 
 
 Roast Saddle of Mutton.—The saddle of mutton, if a pretty 
 good size, will take two hours to roast. It should be slightly trimmed 
 from any patches of brown skin, and served with a little best brown 
 gravy, and red currant jelly in a sauce boat. If a very fine saddle it 
 will take two and a half hours to roast. It should be gently roasted, 
 and kept a proper distance from the fire, and frequently basted. 
 
 Fillet of Beef a la Jardiniere.—Cut a fillet of beef the full length 
 of the sirloin, remove a portion of the fat and sinewy parts, then have 
 it nicely larded with fat bacon ; then mark it in an oval braizing kettle, 
 with one carrot, one head of celery, two onions, also the white part of 
 one leek, and remember when you mark the fillet it should be placed 
 upon the slice which fits the braizing pan. All the above-named 
 vegetables should be cut rather small, and placed beside, or, in fact, on 
 each side of the fillet of beef. 
 
 Then add one pint of water and one pint of second stock ; bring to the 
 boil, and let simmer gently for one hour and a half. Then try it with the 
 pointed part of a wooden skewer, by putting the skewer gently through 
 
VEAL AND HAM PIE. 
 
 111 
 
 the fillet, and if it passes through easily it is done; it should then be 
 lifted out of the braizing kettle, and any vegetables carefully removed, 
 placed on a baking sheet nicely glazed, and put in the oven to make the 
 larding rise, and be again nicely glazed and again placed in the oven 
 for about ten minutes, till the larding looks nice and brown, glazing 
 it again if necessary; and when it looks to your satisfaction place it on 
 its dish ready for the garnish, and place where it will keep hot. 
 
 Now strain off the gravy in 'which it was braized into a suitable stew- 
 pan, bring to the boil, and removing all grease that may show on the 
 same ; it should be then reduced to about one gill, which should be added 
 to half a pint of brown sauce; a nice garniture a la Jardiniere should be 
 placed tastefully round the fillet, and when serving; the sauce (boiling 
 hot) should be poured round it and instantly sent to table. 
 
 Veal and Ham Pie. —Take a three-pound slice of veal cut from 
 the leg, and from this cut as many thin scollops as you can, leaving- 
 out the rough or very hard parts. Then cut about half as many thin 
 'Collops or slices of ham (these last should be cut very thin). Then 
 <hop up a handful of picked parsley, and mix with this a little sweet 
 thyme; sprinkle these over the veal, then arrange them neatly in 
 layers in a dish—-first a layer of veal, then a layer of ham, and so on— 
 sprinkling with a little pepper and some herbaceous mixture. When 
 the dish is filled add a little best brown gravy, then cover the same 
 with the following paste : rub into one pound of sifted flour eight ounces 
 of good butter; when rubbed in add two yolks of eggs and three parts 
 of half-a-pint of water, and mix all together ; and, cleaning your hands 
 from the paste adhering to them, dust a little flower over the paste, 
 and scrape together with your palette knife. 
 
 Then mould these all together into a compact solid lump, and let it 
 rest for ten minutes covered over with a damp cloth, when well mould 
 it togelher again ; then roll out a piece as thick as your finger, and 
 long enough to reach all round the edge of the pie dish. Then take 
 two yolks of eggs, and, dipping your egg-brush into some water, mix 
 the yolks of eggs together, and egg the edge of the dish; then lay on 
 this the piece of paste you have rolled out, press it down evenly on 
 the egged rim of the dish, and egg the surface of this also. 
 
I 12 
 
 VEAL AND HAM TIE. 
 
 Then roll out the remainder of the paste to such a size as to nicely 
 cover the dish and its contents, and, doubling the same, lay it half way 
 on the dish to begin with. Then spread out the other half so that it 
 covers the entire dish, press with your right-hand thumb all round the 
 edge of the pie, also slightly round the inside of the dish, after which 
 trim off the surplus paste by keeping your knife close to the outside 
 rim. 
 
 Then with your knife crimp round the paste on the edge; and then 
 knotch it all round as neatly as you can, and, dipping your egg-brush 
 again in water, slightly mask with the yolks of egg the entire outside 
 of your pie, after which roll out the remainder of your paste and cut 
 out a dozen leaves about ijinch in length, and crimp these so as to 
 make them resemble leaves. Then make a hole in the centre of the top 
 of the pie, and letting one point of each leaf overlay (very slightly) the 
 edge of the hole, and following suit, place the leaves all round slightly 
 overlapping each other. 
 
 Then finally roll out the remains of the paste and make a smooth 
 round ball with a point to it; place this point in the central hole, and 
 dipping your brush again in water, very lightly egg over your ornamental 
 leaves and the round ball; and finally make four small holes in the two 
 ends and at the sides of the pie to let the steam out when the pie is 
 baked. Then bake it in an oven of moderate heat; it will take about two 
 hours to bake. You can tell when it is done by placing your larding or 
 packing needle in the centre, and if it is done it will go through the 
 meat easily. 
 
 Directly it is done, remove the round ball in the centre; and through 
 this aperture, fill up with some good strong gravy, and send to table 
 replacing the round ball. You must look at the pie while baking and 
 take care it does not become too much done. If you find the oven 
 hotter than you thought, cover over the paste with a sheet of clean 
 white paper, folded two or three times, which will quite effectually 
 prevent the paste becoming too dark or overdone. It should be dished 
 on a napkin, on a suitable size dish, when about sending to table. 
 
RICE CAKE A L’ANCIENNE. 
 
 11 
 
 'y 
 
 FOUR SECOND-COURSE ROASTS 
 Roast Fowls and Roast Wild Ducks. 
 
 Roast Quails and Roast Capon. 
 
 Two Stewed Celery a l’Espagnol. 
 
 Let these be put down to roast half an hour before dinner. 
 
 The Stewed Celery a l’Espagnol. —The stewed celery must 
 he well trimmed, the heads of the same cut to a point, and each head 
 of celery, cut of the same length, thoroughly well washed; then add 
 sufficient white stock to cover them, and let boil till tender; then drain 
 on a cloth and place six heads on a dish, and you will need two dishes, 
 .and pour a good Espagnol over them, and send them to table with the 
 second course. 
 
 FOUR SECOND-COURSE REMOVES. 
 
 Rice Cake a lkAncienne. 
 
 Pudding a la Celestine. 
 
 Pommes a la Portuguaise. 
 
 Savarin a la Parisienne. 
 
 Rice Cake a l’Ancienne. —Take half-a-pound of Carolina rice 
 look it over and put aside any black specks or solid grains, wash the 
 same in two waters, then throw it in two quarts of boiling water and 
 let it boil for two minutes, then strain it and place it in a clean two 
 quart stew-pan with half-a-pint of cream and a pint of milk, 
 let it come to the boil, then add a table-spoonful of Vanille sugar, 
 when fix the lid closely and let very slowly simmer for half-an-hour. 
 After this, closely examine the same, and if the rice is thoroughly 
 done remove it to the kitchen dresser, and part six eggs and stir in 
 the six yolks two at a time, also one pat of butter ; mix well together 
 and then place it on a dish to get cold, covering it with a sheet of 
 buttered paper, and while doing so prepare a little clarified butter, 
 and when nicely creamed well butter a quart-size pudding mould, oval 
 or round, but quite plain ; put in the bottom a round of foolscap 
 paper cut exactly to fit the bottom of the mould, and butter the part 
 that shows to you. 
 
 I 
 
PUDDING A LA CELESTINE. 
 
 114 
 
 Then line the mould with the rice which has been getting cold. The 
 best way to do this is to mould the rice into a round ball (keeping a 
 piece back to fix on the top), and then make a hole in the centre 
 and place this in the mould, making the sides of uniform thickness 
 and the bottom part of the same thickness as the sides; then place in 
 the hole about three parts of a i-lb. pot of black currant jam, keeping 
 the other part back for sauce. Then fill up the mould with the re¬ 
 mainder of the rice, taking care that what you put on the top adheres 
 to what is in the mould. 
 
 Let me observe, that the rice, after the six yolks of eggs have been 
 added, should be stirred for a minute or two over the fire so as to 
 make the rice more firm when it is cold, and when the mould is filled 
 butter a piece of paper and twist round the top, and fold a sheet of 
 paper several times for the mould to stand upon, place it in a small 
 saute-pan, and bake it in a rather hot oven for half-an-hour or a 
 little longer. It should be a bright brown colour when turned out of 
 the mould. 
 
 But when you think it done do not turn it out for ten minutes, which 
 will cause the rice to become more close and compact. The sauce 
 should be made by adding a gill of syrup to the remaining black 
 currant jam, bringing the same to the boil, and pouring round the 
 cake when sending to table ; and plum jam, or apricot jam, or apple 
 jam, or preserved fruits served whole, when placed in the centre, make 
 a charming variety. 
 
 Pudding a la Celestine. —Take nine sponge cakes and cut them 
 in two and spread a little apricot jam between them. Then take 
 | lb. of preserved cherries, 4 lb. of ratifias, six whole eggs and two yolks, 
 
 pint of milk, and 2 ozs of powdered sugar. Then nicely butter an 
 oval pudding mould, and cut a piece of foolscap paper to fit inside, 
 place at the bottom, then make a star with some of the cherries on the 
 bottom, and on these arrange the sponge cakes, cutting each sponge 
 cake in three pieces and sprinkling a few ratifias on each layer with 
 a few cherries. 
 
 Then another layer of sponge cakes, ratifias, and cherries, and so on 
 till the mould is filled; then screw a piece of buttered paper over the 
 
APPLES A LA PORTUGUAISE. 
 
 115 
 
 mould, and place a sheet of paper, folded four times, inside a stewpan 
 which will hold the pudding mould; place a cover over it and mark in 
 the larder. Then crack the six eggs, taking care to examine each one 
 and the two yolks ; add the two ounces of sugar, and then beat the eggs 
 and sugar with a wire whisk well together; and add the ij pint 
 of milk, and strain through a pointed tin strainer, and grate in this one 
 nutmeg and one large sweet-smelling lemon. 
 
 Place this raw custard in a suitable-sized basin alongside your pud¬ 
 ding, and when about to cook the same for dinner mix the custard well 
 together and pour it very gently over the mixture in the pudding mould. 
 Screw the paper again tightly round the mould and pour one quart of 
 water round it, and let slowly steam for three-quarters of an hour; 
 when serving pour round about one gill of strong syrup, made a 
 slight pink by adding a little cochineal, and to this add one wine 
 glass of maraschino. A little apricot jam should be mixed with the sauce. 
 
 Note .—The mould used for the pudding should be a one-quart mould. 
 
 Apples a la Portuguaise. —Peel eighteen pippins and remove 
 the cores with a tin cutter. As you peel them throw them into a 
 quart of water with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice 
 of two lemons, and the gratings of the same (grated before squeezing). 
 When thus far prepared put the water from the apples on the fire to 
 boil, and when boiling, put the apples into it and let them slowly 
 simmer (very slowly), and then cover with a sheet of paper, taking care 
 to watch them and turn them over now and then. 
 
 When they are quite tender remove on to a hair sieve, leaving the 
 paper over them. Proceed as follows :—Place half-a-pint of milk on 
 the fire to boil, and thicken this with two spoonsful of arrowroot 
 which should be mixed with a little milk, then stirred into the boil¬ 
 ing milk ; stir till it becomes a rather thick paste, then add a small 
 pat of butter and a little sugar, and add six yolks of eggs three at a time, 
 stirring over or on the hot plate, and still thickening, add the other 
 yolks. You must be attentive to it or it will curdle ; and stir till it 
 nicely thickens, but do not let it boil; place it in a small basin, 
 stirring it a couple of minutes. You will now require a pot of apricot 
 jam and a pot of red jelly; fill a little red currant jelly into the 
 
 I 2 
 
APPLES A LA PORTUGUAISE. 
 
 11 6 
 
 hole in each pippin, and now build the pippins up in a pile in the 
 centre of the lining or the inside part of a soufflee dish. As you 
 build them up add a little custard in the centre, and so on till you have 
 piled up all the pippins and used all your thick custard (or frangipan, as 
 the French call it). 
 
 Now with your knife spread some apricot jam over the pippins—it 
 should be thinly spread over them—and proceed again as follows : let 
 your copper bowl, or stewpan, be very , very cleanly scoured out (it should 
 hold about three quarts) also one of the best of your wire whisks, and 
 feeling quite certain these are quite clean, part the whites of six fresh 
 eggs into the bowl or stewpan; and then weigh half-a-pound of finely 
 powdered sugar and also a quarter of a pound of icing sugar; mix these 
 well together and sift it through a wire sieve, and place it where it will 
 become quite warm but not hot. 
 
 Then take your whisk in your right hand, and hold the bowl or 
 stewpan in your left slightly tilted; proceed to whip up your whites of 
 eggs by constantly striking the same so as to make the whites turn over 
 and over till they become a light but solid body. You must not spare 
 your labour in this matter for five minutes; and when you feel and see 
 that they are quite firm remove what is on your whisk, and lightly with 
 a dry wooden spoon stir in your warm sugar, then with this meranque 
 as it is termed, and the assistance of a palette knife or a wide-bladed 
 dinner knife, mask over, to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, the 
 pile of pippins inside the souff!6e dish ; the pippins should be quite 
 covered, and gently with your knife make the outside even. 
 
 Then with the assistance of a few corneys —which are made out of 
 foolscap paper (into the shape of moist sugar when done up in one 
 pound packets)—with a little skill you can ornament the outside very 
 nicely with the remainder of your meranque, which is done by placing 
 the meranque (some of it) into a corney, then fixing a pin in the paper, 
 make a hole at the point, and, folding the ends in, so that the meranque 
 will not squeeze out, make a nice row of balls about the size of a 
 bantam’s egg round the base and a few round rings in the centre and 
 one at the top. 
 
 Then sprinkle over it a few chopped pistachio nuts and a little pink 
 
THE VEGETABLES IN SEASON. 
 
 II 7 
 
 sugar in grains, and over all a little plain powdered sugar, also a few 
 preserved cherries, and with a few green leaves in angelica, you can make 
 quite a handsome dish; when you have finished it bake it in an oven for 
 about ten minutes, till it becomes a light fawn colour, then place it in 
 the screen for an hour or two; and when sent to table it should be 
 placed in the silver soufifltie case, and this should stand on a small oval 
 dish with a napkin under it and serve, having placed a little red currant 
 jelly in top ring also in the centre rings. 
 
 Savarin a la Parisienne. —Make the cake exactly the same as 
 for the brioche pudding (see second number of this work) without fruit, 
 but sprinkling a few chopped almonds, not too fine, inside the mould 
 immediately after you have well buttered it, adding two ounces of 
 sugar and two more eggs and letting rise a little lighter; and as the 
 mixture has no fruit in it, there is no need for chemising the mould. 
 
 When baked, it should be made or kept warm till sending to table, with 
 the following additions : Rub three oranges on a piece of sugar to obtain 
 the zest, then place this in a stew-pan with half-a-pound of lump sugar and 
 one glass of cura^oa and one of maraschino, and the juice of the three 
 oranges, and half a pint of water ; let it come slowly to the boil; and a 
 little before dinner cut off the hard part from the bottom, and, running a 
 thin knife down the cake, pour about three parts of the syrup into the 
 same, which being very light will rapidly absorb the same; when placed 
 on its dish, dip an egg-brush in the remainder of the sauce, and, 
 moistening the top, sprinkle a few chopped pistachio nuts over the 
 almonds, and serve half a pint of whipt cream a la Vanille in two piles 
 beside it; and pour the remainder of the sauce round it, and serve. 
 
 The Vegetables in Season. —These will be found on the 
 Requisition List, and the same kind and quantity will serve for each 
 dinner, taking care to send them to table with the first course removes. 
 
 ENTREMETS FOR SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Jellies of oranges a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Bouches de dames a la modern. 
 
 Meranques a la Chantilly. 
 
 Pains of rhubarb a la royal. 
 
Il8 PAINS OF RHUBARB A LA ROYAL. 
 
 Rub the rind or zest from six oranges on to a piece of lump sugar, 
 which place in a stew-pan; then squeeze the juice from 14 oranges 
 upon this through a hair sieve, and four lemons ; then place £ lb. of the 
 best pied de vean gelatine in soak in a little cold water for ten minutes. 
 Now measure your orange juice, and add sufficient water to make very 
 nearly two quarts ; and chop up some of the lump sugar on which you 
 rubbed the oranges to sweeten the jelly (about £ lb. will be the quantity), 
 place these in the stew-pan, and put on the fire to come nearly to the 
 boil, removing the white scum that will rise, and tasting to see that it 
 is nicely palatable, adding more sugar if needed; when skimmed draw 
 it aside, strain the gelatine which has been soaking and put a little at a 
 time into the jelly, stirring it, to dissolve the same, with a wooden 
 spoon. 
 
 When you know that it is well dissolved remove it from the fire, and 
 place it in the larder till nearly cold. If you wish the moulds orna¬ 
 mented make a little blanc-mange, or sweeten a little milk, and add to 
 it some melted gelatine and a little brandy or maraschino. 
 
 Pour a little of this at the bottom of each mould, and, when quite 
 set, add a little cochineal to some of your orange jelly (about one gill), 
 and pour this on the blanc-mange already in the two moulds, and 
 let this set, and while doing so, place the stew-pan containing the 
 orange jelly in a kitchen pan, and place a little ice round it, and a 
 couple of quarts of water. Then keep stirring the orange jelly till it 
 begvis to set, when at once fill the two ornamented moulds with the 
 same. 
 
 Note .—The reason for stirring the orange jelly is to prevent it mottling, 
 which would take from its appearance when on the dinner dishes. 
 
 Pains of Rhubarb a la Royal.—Peel and cut up enough 
 rhubarb to fill three quarts, and place it in a stew-pan with half-a-pint of 
 water and about one pound of powdered sugar, and let this slowly 
 simmer till it has become a pulp. Then pass it, by rubbing with a 
 wooden spoon, through a hair sieve ; then put in soak a quarter of a 
 pound of pied de veau gelatine in cold water for ten minues, when 
 again place on the fire your puree of rhubarb, taking care to measure 
 the same, to see if you have about two quarts; taste, and see if it is 
 
BOUCHFES DE DAMES A LA MODERN. IIQ 
 
 quite palatable, and if more sugar is needed, add it; also a little of 
 prepared cochineal to enliven its colour : that is if red rhubarb. 
 
 If you have not quite enough, make up the quantity by a little water, 
 and, when quite hot, add your gelatine a little at a time, stirring the 
 rhubarb till the added gelatine is well mixed in. 
 
 Then stir till beginning to set, when pour into two quart jelly moulds, 
 but not ornamented, as these will look best without. A little plain 
 custard, made with two whole eggs, and one yolk to half-a-pint of milk, 
 should be added or poured round the pains, when sending to table, and 
 they should be turned out of the moulds the same as jellies, by dipping 
 the moulds in warm water. Some sugar should be added to the custard. 
 
 Bouchees de Dames a la Modern.— Place eight sound potatoes 
 of equal size in the oven to bake; when done cut them in two, and 
 rub them through a wire quenelle sieve; then place half pound of butter 
 in a stew-pan, make it a little warm, and then keep beating it with a 
 wooden spoon till it looks white and creamy, when add half pound of 
 powdered sugar, and well beat together for a couple of minutes. 
 
 Then add three whole eggs, one at a time, and beat these well in, and 
 then two yolks (and, let me add, the more beaten with your spoon the 
 better). Finally, add half a pound of the prepared potatoes to which 
 has been added the grated zest of one lemon, and the half of a grated 
 nutmeg, then lightly stir in the potatoes into the sugar, butter, and eggs. 
 Now roll out some trimmings of puff paste, giving it what is termed one 
 roll (that is, rolling it out thinly, and then folding it into a square piece, 
 which roll out again to the thickness of half a crown, when cut it out 
 with a fluted cutter into pieces that will nicely fit an ordinary size tartlet 
 tin. You will want about 24 pieces, and when these are cut out turn 
 each piece upside down as you place them in the tartlet tins, pressing 
 your thumb or two fingers on the centre of each as you do them to 
 keep them in position. 
 
 When all are filled into the tins, with your finger and thumb of each 
 hand, slighty but evenly pinch up the edges of each. Then with your 
 small knife, or a fork is better, prick the centre of each, letting 
 the fork go right through to the tartlet tin. And now, with a 
 dessert spoon, place an equal quantity into each (about the size of a 
 
120 
 
 MERANQUES A LA CHANTILLY. 
 
 pigeon’s egg) and bake them in a rather sharp, or quick oven, taking 
 care to watch them carefuly while baking. 
 
 Note .—A great improvement to these bouchees de dames is to use two 
 ounces of grated cocoa-nut in the half pound mixture, and keep back 
 two ounces of potatoes. 
 
 Meranques a la Chantilly. —There is nothing in cookery more 
 difficult to make than meranques, if certain little matters pertaining to 
 their manufacture are not obtainable, and certain particulars not paid 
 attention to; but if so, there is not the least difficuly attending their 
 production. 
 
 The first is, to obtain a very clean untinned copper bowl, and the 
 whisk should be scoured with some clean sand and a juicy lemon cut in 
 two, the juice serving to moisten the sand, and the half lemon cap serving 
 to scrub with. When well scoured, wash both bowl and whisk with cold 
 water, and then scour a second time, exactly as at first, and with a clean 
 cloth wipe both quite dry, when they are ready for use ; then weigh three- 
 quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar, and a quarter of super-icing 
 sugar, mix well together, and sift through a wire quenelle sieve, and 
 place to dry and become warm in the screen. Then take eight very 
 fresh eggs of good size, and crack them gently, so as not to break the 
 yolks; as you crack them, divide the yolks into one small basin and the 
 whites into another, and be very particular in smelling each egg, and da 
 not mix a?iy yolk with the whites; and if you have the least fear of any 
 of your eggs not being of good, in fact, first class quality, do 7 iot use them. 
 
 When you have parted the eggs, place the whites in your clean copper 
 bowl, and when all the eight whites are in the bowl, examine them closely 
 and see that there is not a particle of yolk of egg with them. Then, 
 holding your copper bowl slightly on its side and your whisk in your 
 right hand, commence to beat up the eggs by striking the same slowly 
 at first, and make your right hand continue a circular motion, or go 
 round and round as you strike the whites of eggs. According as you 
 see them begin to increase in bulk, strike quicker, and hold the whites 
 with your whisk well together, if not they are apt to become rough, 
 which should not be ; and now keep striking nice and quickly till the 
 eggs become a compact white mass and quite smooth, and so firm that 
 
MERANQUES A LA CHANTILLY. 
 
 I 2 I 
 
 it would support the weight of a whole egg readily on the top of it, and 
 when you feel it is very firm it will do. 
 
 Then, cleaning off what is on the whisk, mix in the sugar which you 
 put to get warm, see that it is not lumpy; if so (which will be the case 
 sometimes), sift it through the wire sieve again, and then mix it with the 
 whipt whites. It should be mixed lightly but well together, with a dry 
 wooden spoon. Then lay them out for meranques as follows :—Spread 
 two sheets of thin kitchen paper on two copper-baking sheets, and have 
 by you a few sheets of foolscap paper, and make two or three of these 
 into large corneys , or paper bags, of sugar-loaf shape, leaving an aper¬ 
 ture at each end of about half-an-inch wide, and place a pin in each so 
 as to fix the shape and hold it firm. 
 
 Then fill the corney three-parts full of meranque, and lay out the 
 same so as to form round lumps about half the size of half an egg (the 
 circular part). This is done by your holding the bag upright in your 
 right hand, and partly guiding it with your left to force the meranque 
 from the corney; the rounds should be about one-inch apart, and 
 should be as near as possible of the same size. When all are laid 
 out in this way, then sprinkle a few chopped pistachio nuts on each, 
 and a small pinch of pink sugar in the centre. 
 
 Then, with the sugar dredger, sprinkle a little finely pounded sugar 
 over them and bake for a time in a cool oven. They must be watched 
 attentively for they soon take colour, and when of a nice fawn tint take 
 them out of the oven, place them to dry in the screen for a couple of 
 hours, and then turn upside down each sheet of paper they were laid on 
 upon the dresser, and with an egg-brush dipped in water moisten the 
 back of the paper lightly, then turn the paper up again, and 
 after a few minutes you can readily remove the meranques, and 
 removing a little of the inside with your small knife from the centre 
 of each, arrange them on hair sieves as you do them, and place back 
 in the screen to become thoroughly dry and crisp. When sending to 
 table, whip a pint of very fresh and good cream till as firm as good 
 meranque, flavour this with a spoonful of Vanille sugar, then fill your 
 meranques at the last thing, putting the two halves together when filled, 
 and dishing in a nice pile on napkins or dessert papers, and send to table, 
 
122 
 
 BEIGNETS AU PARMESAN A L’ALLEMAND. 
 
 taking the precaution to lightly squeeze them together with your two 
 hands to prevent them falling down. About nine to a dish should be 
 enough. 
 
 ENTREMETS WITH CHEESE, 
 
 Forming the Last Dishes for the Two Dinners. 
 
 Bonnes Bouchees au Parmesan. 
 
 Beignets au Parmesan a l’Allemand. 
 
 Make a short paste as follows :—i lb. of flour, 6 oz. of butter, and 
 2 yolks of eggs, and about a teacup of water. Rub the butter into 
 the flour after sifting it, then add two yolks of eggs and some water 
 and mix into a nice firm paste. Let lay for about ten minutes to 
 become mellow; then cut it out into equal size round pieces with a 
 plain tin cutter to fit an ordinary tartlet tin. The pieces should be about 
 as thick as half-a-crown. Place them evenly in the tartlet tins and 
 pinch up the paste so as to form a slight rim above each tartlet tin. 
 When ail are done, beat up four eggs well for a couple of minutes. 
 
 Then weigh half a pound of flour, which should be sifted and placed 
 in a quart basin, and to which should be added one pint of milk, 
 adding about half at first, and then beating with the whisk and adding 
 the four eggs, still beating, and finish by adding the remainder of the 
 milk. Then strain through a pointed tin sieve. 
 
 Now prepare 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, and cut the fillet 
 from the best end of a loin of mutton and cut it into small dice, mix 
 this with Parmesan cheese, adding a little cayenne pepper and salt, and 
 place an equal quantity in each croustade (in the tartlet tins), 
 and when ready to bake, place some batter in each, but do not fill them 
 too full, then put them in the oven to bake immediately the soup and 
 fish have left the kitchen for your dinner. 
 
 They will want watching, and should be baked a nice brown colour, 
 and dished on two napkins in a pile, a little grated Parmesan cheese 
 being shook over them before dishing; they should be sent away from 
 the kitchen very hot. 
 
 Beignets au Parmesan a l’Allemand.—6 oz. of flour sifted, 
 3 oz. butter, 3 whole eggs, 3 yolks of eggs, 2 oz, Parmesan cheese, and 
 
SAUCE EN MATELOTE NORMAND. 
 
 123 
 
 the same of chopped ham (chopped very fine) a little cayenne pepper 
 and salt, and a teaspoonful of fresh made mustard, with half-a-pint 
 of milk. Place the milk and butter in a three pint stewpan to boil, and 
 when boiling stir in the sifted flour, and when the flour is stirred in keep 
 still stirring for a couple of minutes on the hot plate ; then add the 
 whole eggs one at a time, stirring them in on the dresser, and finally the 
 yolks. 
 
 After this, place again on the hot plate for a couple of minutes (not 
 to cook the eggs, but to partly set them). 
 
 When this is done, stir in the Parmesan cheese and ham, and place 
 it on ice or where it will become cold ; and when it is so, make it into 
 small balls of about one inch in diameter, using a little flour to help you 
 do so, and taking care they are all of the same size; then crack three 
 whole eggs, add a little salt, and beat up the eggs, and dip the 
 beignets in the egg, and then into some finely made bread crumbs; 
 and when all have been bread-crumbed, roll them nicely into shape. 
 
 When needed, fry them in clean hog’s lard of a light brown colour; 
 and shake a little Parmesan over, and dish in a pile on napkins, and 
 serve ; there should be two dishes. 
 
 List of Special Sauces for the dinner of March 6th :— 
 
 Sauce en matelote Normand, one pint. 
 
 Lobster sauce for turbot, one pint. 
 
 Imperial sauce for sweetbreads, one pint. 
 
 Compote of pigeons with mushrooms, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for fowls and rice, one pint. 
 
 Gravy for saddle of mutton, half-a-pint. 
 
 Gravy for second course, roast, half-a-pint. 
 
 Financiere sauce for plovers, half-a-pint. 
 
 Port wine sauce for wild ducks, half-a-pint. 
 
 Black currant sauce for rice cake, half-a-pint. 
 
 Sauce for pudding a la Celestine, one pint. 
 
 Sauce en Matelote Normand.—The Espagnol sauce (see 
 Index) and the Veloute sauce (see Index) should now be on the 
 kitchen table. Now place in a quart stewpan one pint of veloute sauce, 
 with the fish essence from the haddocks and oysters; also one glass of 
 
124 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE FOR TURBOT. 
 
 sherry, and the juice of one tin of mushrooms and a table-spoonful of 
 anchovy essence. Reduce all these to the consistency of double cream ; 
 then add | pint of double cream, and when it boils pass through the 
 pointed sieve of tin into a bain-marie, and mark. 
 
 Now mark off the ragout for the same in a separate bain-marie, the 18 
 prawns, which should be picked, also the 18 oysters, with the black of 
 the beard removed ; half a can of mushrooms, four truffles cut in very 
 thin slices, and the thin end of the lobster’s tail cut in thin slices; put 
 one gill of second stock with these, and bring to the boil, and then mark. 
 
 Note .—A leason or mixture of three yolks, a pat of butter, and a 
 little cream, should be added to the matelotte sauce the last thing. 
 
 Lobster Sauce for Turbot.—Place one pint of water to boil in 
 a three-pint stew-pan, and mix three tablespoonfuls of flour in a pint 
 basin with another half pint of cold water ; add the water a little 
 at a time, mixing with a wire whisk till quite smooth. Then 
 strain this through a pointed tin strainer, and when your pint of 
 water boils, stir in nearly all your flour and water, drawing back the 
 stew-pan to a cooler part of the hot plate, and stirring till it boils. Now 
 notice its point of thickness, which should be that of good double 
 cream. 
 
 When it has boiled a couple of minutes whip or stir in about a quarter- 
 of-a-pound of fresh butter, and do not leave off stirring till the butter 
 has well amalgamated with the partly-finished sauce, then place it aside 
 for the present, while you prepare the lobster, which do as follows : 
 break off the claws and the tail, and chop up the body rather fine, 
 place this body then in stewpan with a little second stock (one gill), 
 and let simmer for ten minutes, and, while it is being done, remove the 
 flesh from the shell by holding the claw on its edge and chopping it 
 slightly with a cutlet chopper so as to cut through the claw, and then 
 remove the flesh. By this means you will not break the flesh as you 
 would by striking the claw on its flat side, and by holding the tail of the 
 lobster in a cloth and pressing the shell inwards you will crack the shell 
 and readily remove the inside. Cut the whole of the meat into the 
 shape of dice of a quarter of an inch square. 
 
 Then rub the live spawn through a hair-sieve, with a few drops of 
 
BECHEMELLE SAUCE. 
 
 125 
 
 water now and then to moisten the same as you rub it through, using 
 about a spoonful altogether. Then carefully remove all the spawn 
 with an iron spoon, turning the sieve up for this purpose to do it; now 
 look to the essence of lobster, which is being extracted from the 
 chopped-up body, to see if all right, strain it off into a quart stewpan, to 
 which add two-thirds of the butter sauce just made, also the live 
 spawn, a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a little cayenne and salt, and 
 the juice of half a lemon, and stir over the fire till hot and it has become 
 red. Then place in it the cut-up lobster; keep it on the fire for a 
 couple of minutes to scald the lobster meat, but do not let it boil; 
 then mark it off in a bain-marie. 
 
 Butter Sauce. —Mark this off also, it being part of that left from 
 that in part prepared for the lobster sauce. 
 
 Imperial Sauce. —Take a pint tin of preserved tomatoes, turn 
 them into a stew-pan, add one gill of second stock and let boil till 
 quite a pulp, then pass this through or rub through a hair sieve ; place 
 this pulp in a clean stew-pan with two glasses of sherry, a wine-glass 
 of Chili vinegar, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and a little cayenne pepper, 
 and half-a-pint of veloute sauce, and a little salt. Stir on the fire till 
 of its proper consistency (that of single cream), then mark in bain-marie 
 and serve with the sweetbreads a lTmperial. 
 
 Sauce aux Champignons a l’Essence. —Place the sauce con¬ 
 taining the essence of pigeons on the fire to boil, and add to it one pint 
 tin of mushrooms; add also a little pepper and salt (white pepper), and 
 the liquor from the mushrooms ; add one pint of brown sauce. Let this 
 boil till reduced to its proper consistency, then mark off, and when the 
 pigeons have been made hot and nicely glazed, and dished on a border of 
 potato paste, the mushrooms should be placed in the centre, and the 
 sauce h. l’essence, after pouring one-third over the mushrooms the rest 
 should be poured very hot round the pigeons and served. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce, to be served with the Fowls. —Place 
 sj pint of veloute sauce on the fire in a two-quart stew-pan, add to 
 this six fresh champignons cut in slices, let it come to the boil and re¬ 
 duce the same to the consistence of double cream, stirring it with a 
 wooden spoon during the time it is reducing, then add sufficient double 
 
126 
 
 MARASCHINO SAUCE. 
 
 cream (and very fresh), to make the sauce nice and white, and when it 
 has well boiled up, pass through a tammy cloth , add a little salt and very 
 little cayenne pepper, and mark it off. 
 
 Note. —When your remove of fowls are dished and the rice piled 
 between, the fowls should be well masked with this sauce, and a little 
 poured all round the dish (but not ov-r the stewed rice). It should 
 be sent very hot to table when needed, not saucing till the last moment. 
 
 Gravy for Saddle of Mutton and Second Course Roast. 
 —Mark off about one pint of best gravy for this purpose. 
 
 Port Wine Sauce for W r ild Ducks. —Two glasses of port 
 wine, one gill of Espagnol sauce, the juice of half a lemon, a little 
 currant jelly, cayenne pepper and salt; let boil up, and mark off. 
 
 Financiere Sauce for Plovers. —One glass of sherry, one gill of 
 Espagnol, one wine glass of best gravy, boil together with a little salt 
 and cayenne, and mark. 
 
 Black Currant Jam Sauce, for Rice Cake. —Boil two spoons¬ 
 ful of black currant jam in three parts of half-a-pint of syrup, and serve. 
 
 Maraschino Sauce, for Pudding a la Celestine. —Take 
 half-a-pint of pink syrup, add one glass of maraschino, and two table- 
 spoonsful of apricot jam ; let boil, and serve. 
 
 \_The end of the first dinner that appears in this , the March portion 
 of The Modern Kitchen Oracle , the Metm of which appears on 
 page 97. Also of the second dinner, which appears in the list of instruc¬ 
 tions for each dinner .] 
 
 Now, believing our directions and instructions have been so clear 
 that no further need be said, we shall proceed to give the list 
 for the sauces of the second dinner, thereby giving our readers 
 and patrons fuller scope for the exercise of their individual talent, 
 by giving them a much larger number of dishes for their study 
 and consideration , which, we trust, will give entire satisfaction, our 
 friends having to copy out the dishes for a dinner for sixteen or eighteen 
 persons, and to prepare their own requisition list. If the dinner should 
 be only for half that number of persons, only half will be required of 
 what is on the first Menu, and the same vegetables can be used for each 
 dinner, and the same method used in sending each dinnerto table. 
 
ESPAGNOL SAUCE FOR PAINS OF MUTTON. 
 
 127 
 
 LIST OF SAUCES. 
 
 Sauce k la Cardinal, for Fillets of Soles, one pint. 
 
 Sauce a la Hollandaise, for Crimped Cod Fish, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for Pains of Mutton a l’Espagnol, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for Fillet of Beef a la Jardiniere, one pint. 
 
 Gravy for Roast Quails and Capons, one pint. 
 
 Jardiniere Roots, for Fillets of Beef, one quart. 
 
 Sauce for Savarin k la Parisienne, one pint. 
 
 Bread Sauce, half-a-pint. 
 
 Cardinal Sauce for Fillets of Soles. —Having finished suffi¬ 
 cient Espagnol and Bechemelle sauce for your dinner, proceed as 
 follows:—Rub through a hair sieve about half a gill of live spawn, 
 with about one table-spoonful of water; place about one pint of 
 Espagnol sauce in a stewpan to boil, with the spawn you have just 
 prepared; add to this two table-spoonsful of anchovy sauce, and two 
 glasses of sherry, and the juice of half a lemon ; let these boil till the 
 sauce is boiled down to its original consistency, then strain through a 
 fine-pointed tin strainer, and add about one table-spoonful of small 
 capers and a little cayenne pepper, and mark it in a suitable sized 
 stewpan or bain-marie. 
 
 Sauce a la Hollandaise for Cod Fish. —Scrape a small stick of 
 horseradish and place it in a small kitchen pan, then cover it with elder- 
 flower vinegar to soak for about half an hour, when strain it through a 
 pointed sieve into a quart stew-pan, then add one pint of Bechemel sauce 
 to it, also three yolks of eggs, which must be very fresh ; add also a small 
 pat of butter and half a gill of cream, stir over the fire till the sauce 
 begins to thicken, but do not let it boil, when pass it through a pointed 
 tin strainer into a bain-marie, and mark it off. 
 
 Espagnol Sauce for Pains of Mutton. —Mark off one pint of 
 Espagnol sauce, also one pint of peas (preserved peas in a tin canister), 
 for placing in the centre of the darioles of mutton which should have a 
 piece of glaze added to the peas, also a little salt, and, before serving 
 add a small pat of butter which should be mixed in with the peas ; but 
 do not use the liquor that is found with the peas when in the canister. 
 
128 
 
 SAUCE FOR SAVARIN A LA PARISIENNE. 
 
 Espagnol Sauce for Fillet of Beef. —Mark another pint of 
 Espagnol sauce for this, to which should be added the essence that comes 
 from the fillet of beef after the fillet is cooked, which should be strained 
 off and freed from every particle of fat, and then reduced to half glaze, 
 and then boiled with the Espagnol sauce and be well skimmed ; and 
 after the Jardiniere vegetables are placed in four piles round the beef 
 pour the sauce round the fillet of beef, and serve. 
 
 The Jardiniere Vegetables for the Fillet of Beef. —Open 
 a quart can and throw them into two quarts of boiling water with a 
 tablespoonful of salt added, and directly the water boils strain off the 
 vegetables and mark them off in a stewpan, adding a little salt and a 
 piece of glaze about twice as big as a walnut, and make hot in the 
 bain-marie case, also a little sugar and one pat of butter. 
 
 Gravy for the Roast Capons. —Mark half-a-pint of best gravy 
 in a bain-marie, also about the same of bread sauce, for which see 
 Index in this number. 
 
 Sauce for Savarin a la Parisienne. —Rub the rind of four 
 oranges on a piece of sugar, which should be afterwards scraped off, 
 and placed in a stewpan, and the juice of six oranges squeezed upon 
 the same ; add to this half pound of sugar and half a pint of water ; and 
 when it boils thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of arrowroot dissolved 
 in half a gill of cold water and then mixed in the syrup. 
 
 To this add a wine-glass of maraschino. The savarin before serving 
 it should be made hot in the screen, and the hard part of the cake cut 
 away from the bottom of the cake, when the sauce should be poured 
 into the cake so as to absorb about half the sauce, and the other half 
 served round it when sending to table. 
 
BALOTINES OF PIGEONS A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 129 
 
 SELECTED ENTRIES AND ENTREMETS FOR 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 (Zb be continued.') 
 
 Saute of Mutton Cutlets, sauce aux Truffles. —Prepare 
 two necks of mutton for cutlets, the same as for lamb cutlets (for which, 
 see pages 13 and 128), only make them a size larger, and they are not 
 to be bread-crumbed. When all are neatly cut of the same size, run 
 about one gill of clarified butter in a melted state over a saute-pan, and 
 arrange your prepared cutlets in regular order—that is to say, the 
 bones of the cutlets should all turn to the right-hand side, so as to show 
 in proper order when dished. When serving, they should be dished on 
 two borders of potato-paste, and you should saute them over a brisk fire, 
 or a red-hot hot-plate. When done, pour from them the butter in which 
 they were fried, and add a gill of your prepared sauce to them. Let 
 them simmer in this for a couple of minutes, shaking over them a little 
 mixed pepper and salt. Then dish them toward your right hand to begin 
 with, and go round to your left hand in a uniform manner. When both 
 are dished, keep them where they will remain hot. The following sauce 
 should have been prepared. Add one gill of sherry to three parts of a pint 
 of Espagnol sauce (see Index). Let this reduce to its proper consistence, 
 and let boil in the sauce eight good sized truffles, cut in very thin slices, 
 adding a very little cayenne pepper and salt. When serving, place half 
 the truffles in the centre of each dish, then adding the sauce left in the 
 saute-pan to what is ready; make very hot, and gently pour one-half over 
 and round the cutlets, and serve. The essence of truffles should also 
 be used in the sauce. 
 
 Balotines of Pigeons a la Toulouse. —Prepare eight fine 
 boned pigeons as follows—-Cut the pigeons in two down the back and 
 between the breast. When divided, cut off the legs, and prepare two 
 pounds of pork sausage meat as follows—Cut up four truffles and 
 
 eight champignons, and pick the stalks from half a handful of parsley. 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 BALOTINES OF PIGEONS A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 Chop up these with the pigeons’ livers very fine, and mix them with three 
 yolks of eggs, a little salt, and a very little cayenne pepper with the 
 sausage meat. Then divide the same into sixteen equal parts, and place 
 one part in each half pigeon ; make each into a round ball as near as 
 possible, and tie them up in a piece, or in two half yards of calico, 
 taking care to tie them up as round and tightly as possible, and braize 
 them in a stew-pan with about one quart of second stock for forty 
 minutes, when place them to become partly cold ; and to make sure 
 they are quite done, untie one, and, if to your satisfaction, then tie 
 them all up a little tighter; place one string below the string with 
 which you first made them secure, and place them to become quite 
 cold. And now cut off the legs, in a slanting direction, just below the 
 thigh joint, and throw them into a little boiling water, to enable 
 you to remove the skin from the same ; and, when finished, place 
 them alongside the balotines. Afterwards, chop up the pigeon’s 
 bones, and place them in a stew-pan, with half-a-pint of best white 
 stock, also half-a-pint of water, and let them cook, or slowly 
 simmer for a couple of hours, which essence must be reduced 
 by boiling to one-fourth its original quantity, and added in due 
 time to the Toulouse ragout, the same as described in the Menu 
 for January; and when preparing the balotines for dinner remove 
 them from the cloth and arrange them on a saute-pan, with a 
 spoonful or two of gravy under them and place them in the oven for 
 about eight minutes to become quite hot, when one leg should be 
 placed in each on the side (it is best to place the feet in while cold). 
 They should be then glazed and placed in the oven to dry; and when 
 the first glaze is dry glaze them a second time (the glaze used should be 
 of the best quality); then dish them on two borders of potato paste so 
 arranged that the legs point slightly upwards. When about to send 
 them for table fill the centre of each with your ragout Toulouse, and 
 add the essence of pigeons to the sauce prepared for the same (adding 
 a sponful of mixed corn flour, if you think your sauce is too thin, by or 
 throngh the addition of the essence), then mask the ragout with part of 
 your sauce, and pour the remainder round the two entrees (about half- 
 a-pint to each), and serve. 
 
TIIE FINANClfcRE RAGOUT. 
 
 131 
 
 Cremes of Fowl a la Financiere. —Take three fine fowls 
 prepared for cutting up, remove the skin from the fillets of the same, 
 and then cut out the fillets and remove any portion of the flesh from the 
 body-bones; cut off also the flesh from the legs and thighs and allow one 
 of your assistants to pound the flesh in a marble mortar. After cutting 
 up the same in half-inch pieces, it should be thoroughly well pounded, 
 and then rubbed through a wire quenelle sieve with energy and as 
 rapidly as possible; and as it is rubbed through it should now and then 
 be removed on to a china plate, and when the whole of the flesh from 
 the three fowls has been passed through the wire sieve the same should 
 be placed in the mortar, adding a little salt and a very little cayenne 
 pepper; then take a quart of very fresh double cream, and after you have 
 added one half pint of Bechemelle sauce, well but steadily mixed with 
 the flesh of the fowls, add about one gill of your double cream at a 
 time (and now go as gently as you went rapidly hitherto), till you have 
 well blended the cream with the flesh of the fowls; and at this point 
 let me say, when mixing in the cream, if you stir it too quickly or give 
 too much labour, you are likely to turn your cream into butter, and 
 that would spoil your dishes. Now when one pint of cream has been 
 used in the manner I have stated, then butter a plain dariole mould 
 and half fill the same with prepared fowl, and place it to gently simmer 
 in a small stew-pan for about five minutes with about half a pint of 
 w T ater in it. Then carefully examine what you have cooked, and if 
 it is delicate and compact, and will not readily separate when turned 
 out of the dariole mould, it will do; but if, on the contrary, it feels too 
 firm, add more cream to bring it to the consistence you desire ; and 
 when so, then butter eighteen dariole moulds, and ornament them with 
 truffles, the same as for the petits pains of veal, then fill them, and cook 
 them, and dish them in exactly the same w r ay as the petits pains of veal, 
 previously described on page 89. 
 
 The Financiere Ragout. —Boil in one pint of Espagnol sauce one 
 
 gill of Madeira wine for five minutes, then place the same items in a 
 
 stew-pan, as for the Tolouse ragout used for the balotines of pigeons 
 
 on previous page, and add sufficient of the Financiere sauce you have 
 
 just prepared, to make the ragout hot in ; and, when serving the creams 
 
 K 2 
 
132 
 
 SAUTE OF FOWL WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE. 
 
 of fowl, divide the ragout between the two dishes; and the same also- 
 with the sauce you pour round them, and serve. 
 
 Note .—White sauce can be used if preferred. 
 
 Saute of Fowl with Truffle Sauce. —Take three best quality 
 fowls prepared for cutting, turn one on its side, and with your left hand 
 clasp the leg and thigh rather tightly, so as to draw up the skin that 
 covers the same, then run your knife right round and separate it from 
 the back, and do the same with the other, then cut the back from the 
 breast and lay the breast with the thick end before you. 
 
 Then cut off the side pieces containing the pinions, and cut them off 
 of equal size; and now return to the centre of the breast, which cut in 
 two crossways; cut off also the pinions rather close to the joint, then cut 
 off the legs a little above the joint and remove the thigh bone, and with 
 your small knife cut round what is called the drumstick and remove the 
 sinewy part and tuck the skin inside, and form each leg into the shape of 
 a miniature leg of mutton. 
 
 Now slightly trim the pieces of fowl so as to make them of equal size, 
 and put them on a saute-pan with a few spoonsful of salad oil run over 
 it. Then cut up the other two fowls in the same manner, and arrange 
 them on the one saute-pan, when place them to fry gently on the hot¬ 
 plate till they become a nice gold colour, when turn the pieces, and they 
 should in the first instance be placed with the skin down. When nicely 
 done, place them in a suitably sized stew-pan, pour off the oil from the 
 saute-pan, and pour in a gill of sherry and about a pint of Espagnol 
 sauce, and let boil for a few minutes. 
 
 f Then place aside for a time. And now chop up quite small 
 the backs and the pinions of the fowls, and cover them with one 
 pint of second stock, and let gently simmer for two hours to extract 
 the essence, which free from every particle of grease and reduce it 
 to glaze, and add to the fowls, with eight truffles cut up very thin 
 into slices. 
 
 Also add a little salt and cayenne pepper, and let the fowls and sauce 
 and essence now boil very gently for a quarter of an hour. When dishing, 
 the pieces of fowl should be equally divided between the two entrees, 
 and to enable you to dish them nicely use a little potato paste to dish 
 
DARIOLES OF MUTTON. 
 
 133 
 
 upon, and take care to use the best pieces uppermost, and use a few 
 small potato croquettes round them. After you have sauced the entries, 
 the sliced truffles should be added the last thing, and show on the top. 
 
 Darioles of Mutton with Minced Mushrooms. —Take a fine 
 loin of mutton and cut off the chump, then remove the upper and 
 under fillets, and the whole of the lean flesh from the chump end, and 
 now carefully remove, without waste, the sinewy parts, and cut up the 
 prime into dice, and let these be well pounded, in the mortar and passed 
 through a wire quenelle sieve. 
 
 Then well pound one gill of Espagnol sauce with the prepared 
 mutton, adding a little cayenne and salt, and when these are well mixed 
 together, add about one pint of very fresh double cream, which should 
 be stirred gently in a gill at a time. 
 
 When you have used about three-parts of the pint of cream, butter 
 a dariole mould, and place a table-spoonful of the mutton in this, which 
 place to boil in a small stew-pan for a few minutes, and then try if it has 
 set by placing your finger upon it; it should be light but compact. If 
 you think it too firm add more cream. Its consistence should be a little 
 firmer than baked custard, and when this point is obtained butter sixteen 
 dariole moulds, small ones, and then chop three truffles very fine, and 
 sprinkle a little in each, then fill your dariole moulds not quite full; 
 eighteen will be sufficient. 
 
 Now cut a few rounds of paper that will nicely fit inside a stew-pan, 
 which will hold all the dariole moulds, then place the moulds upon 
 the paper, keeping one of the rounds of paper to cover them while 
 cooking; about fifteen minutes will do this, pouring round the moulds 
 about if- pint of water, and letting them gently simmer during the time 
 above-mentioned. 
 
 The puree of mushrooms for the same. —Chop up a one-pint tin of 
 champignons as fine as possible, and place these in a stew-pan with a 
 gill of Bechemelle sauce, and place them to boil; in the meantime rub a 
 table-spoonful of flour into a pat of butter, stirring this into the minced 
 mushrooms till it boils, and add a couple of table-spoonfuls of cream, 
 a little white pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon. Then 
 mark off three parts of a pint of Espagnol sauce. 
 
134 
 
 BORDER OF GENOISE CAKE. 
 
 When you are about to dish the darioles, run your glaze brush with 
 some glaze on the centre of the entree dish, upon which you will dish 
 the same, and, after you have done so, place the dish on the side of 
 the hot-plate to dry, and when dry give the same a second coat, and 
 serve both entree dishes the same. 
 
 Now, having turned the darioles on to a dish to drain, dry^the bottoms 
 with a napkin (an old one), and dish nine on each dish, and when 
 serving, divide the mushrooms between the dishes, but sauce them first 
 with the Espagnol sauce, putting the sauce over them and the minced 
 mushrooms in the centre the last thing. 
 
 Border of Genoise Cake with Compote of Fruit. —Weigh 
 12 ozs. of best flour, 7 whole eggs, 12 ozs. of pounded and sifted sugar, 
 and 12 ozs. of best butter, and take care to sift the flour; then prepare 
 two handsome border moulds by buttering and icing them with 
 mixed icing sugar and flour, mixed in equal quantities. 
 
 Then tie some buttered paper round each border mould outside , and 
 also round the part which forms the inside ring. This last piece of 
 paper should be gummed or pasted, the purpose of which is to prevent 
 the Genoise cake when rising from falling over the side of the mould. 
 
 Now take your copper bowl and whisk (which has been cleaned 
 expressly) ; crack your eggs and place them in this after you have 
 placed each egg separately in a small basin and carefully smelt it to 
 prevent you from using a musty one. Then add the 12 ozs. of 
 sifted sugar and beat this over a stew-pan of boiling water (but the 
 water must only gently simmer), so that the batter may become slowly 
 a degree or two more than warm, beat it about ten minutes, and as it 
 becomes warm the batter will thicken, and by placing your finger in 
 it you can tell if it is becoming partly hot. 
 
 Then beat it till it has become cold; you must beat it as lightly as 
 you can, and place the butter in a small stew-pan to melt and become a 
 little warm ; and when you have beaten the batter till it feels cool, have 
 the gratings of a fragrant lemon and shake this in it, also a glass of 
 brandy. 
 
 Then pour in the butter (keeping back the white sediment) and then 
 your sifted flour. Mix all lightly together, and divide this by nearly 
 
BORDER OF GENOISE CAKE. 
 
 135 
 
 filling each mould with the same. Then place them on a baking-sheet 
 with some paper under them folded over three or four times, and bake 
 in an oven moderately hot; you can tell when they are done by the 
 cake feeling firm to the touch, or by placing a thin skewer through the 
 centre; if it comes away dry, the cakes are done. You must be 
 careful to bake them of a light-brown colour, for if dark in colour they 
 would not look well; and when you are turning them out of the moulds 
 tap the edge of each mould gently on the kitchen dresser, holding the 
 mould in your rubber and turning it round as you tap it, and when you 
 find it loose, turn them on to a hair sieve or a sheet of paper. 
 
 When cold, rub a pot of apricot jam through a hair sieve, which place 
 in a small stew-pan, and add to this a gill of calf’s foot jelly and let boil 
 together for three minutes, and place aside till you are ready to use it 
 
 Then throw two ounces of pistachio nuts into some boiling water (one 
 pint) let them boil in this for three minutes, when strain them off, and 
 rub them in a clean cloth which will bring off the skins ; when these have 
 been removed cut each pistachio in two, and each half into shreds of 
 four or five pieces; then prepare some loaf sugar into what is termed 
 grains, of about half the size of currants used in plum pudding; they 
 are made by breaking up a pound of sugar, such as is used for tea or 
 breakfast, with a rolling-pin to about the size you require, then sifting 
 the same through an ordinary wire sieve and selecting from what remains 
 the size you need, and again breaking up what remains, and proceeding 
 again in the same manner, till you have as much as you need. By 
 placing a part of what you need in a small stew-pan, and adding a 
 little prepared cochineal which should be put in the stew-pan first, 
 and then adding the sugar, and stirring it round-and-round with 
 your fingers, you can readily colour the sugar pink, which, when evenly 
 coloured, place on a plate and put to dry in the screen; when dry, mix 
 this with the shred pistachio nuts, also part of the white sugar, (and, I 
 must state, the pistachio nuts should be also dried in the screen after 
 they have been cut in shreds). 
 
 Now make your prepared apricot jam with the jelly in it quite hot, 
 and with a camel’s-hair glaze brush, dipped in the hot jam, mask over 
 the borders of Genoise cake as evenly and uniformly as possible; then 
 
136 
 
 MERANQUE SUISSE A LA CREME. 
 
 sprinkle the white and red sugar and the shred pistachio nuts over the 
 borders which you have just covered with jam, taking care to mix the 
 same well together before doing so, and also to trim the borders of 
 cake, so that they will stand evenly before you commence to mask them. 
 
 When done you can serve a compote of any kind of dressed fruit in 
 the same, and in the winter any kind of preserved fruit, not forgetting 
 apples, pears, oranges ; and the same should be so dished to allow of a 
 little whipt cream being placed in the centre, and at the last thing a 
 little syrup poured round the outside of the borders. And here, let me 
 remark, preserved peaches in tins and apricots in tins, particularly 
 American peaches, and Ponson’s Portugal apricots, can be obtained 
 as perfect from tins as if you prepared them fresh gathered ; and the 
 same with American apples in tins which are prepared ready peeled and 
 cored and ready for use, and, above all, are sold at a very low price. 
 
 Border of Viennoise Cake. —This cake is prepared exactly the 
 same as the above, using six ounces of ground almonds and six ounces 
 of flour, mixed, instead of twelve ounces of flour, and using shred 
 almonds (shred very fine indeed) instead of pistachio nuts. 
 
 After they have been boiled and the skins removed, and when the 
 shred almonds have been partly dried, then mix with some white sugar 
 in grains, and with this sprinkle over the borders after they have been 
 masked over with jam, and serve any kind of compote in the centre 
 with a little whipt cream on the top of the same. 
 
 M eranque Suisse a la Creme.—Have the copper meranque bowl 
 and whisk scoured expressly the same as before described (see page 
 120); and use the same process in making the mercmque as there 
 given ; and same mixture, namely:—Half-a-pound of iceing sugar, 
 half-a-pound of powdered sugar, and eight whites of very fresh eggs. 
 
 Be very particular, in parting the whites from the yolks, that no part 
 of the yolk becomes mixed with the whites; for if such takes place, it 
 will greatly injure the meranque and prevent it from becoming so firm 
 as it should be. Place the whites of eggs in the copper bowl, and beat 
 them up to a firm snow, as directed previously. 
 
 Then let an assistant sift the warm sugar, and if not warm enough, 
 place it or have it placed in the mouth of the oven (but you keep 
 
MERANQUE SUISSE A LA CREME. 137 
 
 beating the whites of eggs till quite firm, and not for one second leaving 
 oft) till the sugar is warm and the whites of eggs are nice and firm. 
 
 Now take out the whisk, removing any part of egg adhering to it, and 
 with a dry wooden spoon mix in the warm sugar as lightly as possible, 
 then with a plain tin cutter 2\ inches in diameter, place this on a 
 half sheet of foolscap paper and with your lead pencil make or mark a 
 round ring, or say, a series of round rings, and you will want about 
 eighteen or twenty, and each ring should have a margin of about i|- 
 inches all round each ring that you mark on the outside. 
 
 When you have made as many rings as you need on paper then take 
 a meranque bag with a tin pipe in it a full half inch wide (for which see 
 engravings in the first number) and then three parts fill the bag 
 with your meranque mixture, and lay it out in rings, letting your bag 
 move round the outside of the rings marked with your pencil, and so 
 making the rings of meranque , by squeezing the bag, of about half an 
 inch wide. You must make them carefully, so that they will be of 
 uniform size and thickness, and very round. 
 
 When you have thus made sufficient, sprinkle a little sugar over the 
 rings thus formed; and then bake them in what we call a cool oven, 
 that is to say, an oven of very gentle heat; and when of a light fawn 
 colour place these rings in the screen to become thoroughly dry. 
 
 This is an important matter , and if the rings are made in the morning 
 they will have the benefit of the hot screen and will soon become nice and 
 dry; and take care not to waste any, but use up all you have made into 
 rings, and place all to become dry; then in the afternoon have the 
 copper bowl and whisk again clean, and make half the mixture you 
 made in the same manner and finish the same, and take care your 
 meranque bag has been washed, and is dry and ready for use; and 
 now turn each paper containing the meranque rings upside down. 
 
 Then, with an egg-brush dipped in hot water, moisten the paper, 
 when after a few minutes you will be able readily to remove the rings 
 from the paper. As you remove them place them on a baking-sheet, the 
 side that has been moistened uppermost, and place them in the oven to 
 dry any little moisture they may have received and a little powdered 
 sugar shaken over them will aid this. 
 
MERANQUE SUISSE A LA CREME. 
 
 138 
 
 When you find they are dry, half fill your bag with meranque, and 
 round each dry ring place a little of the moist meranque, then at once 
 place another dry one and continue this till you have built up neatly 
 and evenly about eight rings or a pile as high as a quart jelly mould, 
 place each one on a plate as you stick the rings together, and put it 
 in the hottest part of the screen, then proceed with the others (and I 
 judge you will have two more), and place these with the one you first 
 finished. The top part of the screen, which is generally enclosed, is the 
 part where they should be placed, and where they should remain till 
 the following day so as to become thoroughly dry. 
 
 Then the first thing in the morning, have your copper bowl and 
 whisk again scoured out as previously instructed, and make six more 
 whites of eggs into meranque mixture, and place twelve ounces of sugar 
 (half icing sugar and half finely-pounded sugar) to dry ; then beat your 
 six whites of eggs to a firm snow, and when your sugar is warm pass it 
 through a dry wire sieve, and mix it lightly with the whites of egg, with 
 which mask over smoothly the sides of the meranque rings which you 
 yesterday built up by sticking them together, and have three croquant 
 bottoms prepared the same as for meranques and cakes of different kinds. 
 Stick or fix on the bottom of each pile of built-up rings a little of the 
 newly-made meranque, then fix each one in the centre of the prepared 
 croquant stand (for which see page 142). 
 
 Now sprinkle over the sides some shred pistachio nuts which have 
 been mixed with some pink sugar in grains; each meranque should be 
 rather thickly sprinkled over so as to look well. Then proceed to fold 
 the half of a sheet of foolscap paper into what the cooks call a corney , 
 which is made into a sugar-loaf shape by folding it with the hands so as 
 to leave a small hole at the thin end, and then fixing a pin through near 
 the thin end, which will cause it to keep a firm shape, half fill this with 
 meranque, and by folding the thick end closely together you can work 
 out the meranque into any kind of design your ingenuity may suggest. 
 Such as forming round the base a row of round, or I should say half- 
 round, balls all of the same size, and in the centre of each of these place 
 the half of a dried cherry after it has been preserved, and between these 
 a few diamond-shaped leaves cut from preserved angelica, and round the 
 
STEWED PIPPINS AND EICE A L’ANGLAISE. 139 
 
 top border make a row of round rings also all of the same size, but made 
 to look like little cups. 
 
 Between these at the outside place a leaf of angelica and the half or 
 quarter of a dried cherry, then sprinkle a little pounded and sifted loaf 
 sugar over the meranque, and again place it in the hottest part of the 
 screen to become quite dry. When serving the same, fill the centre or 
 hollow part with some whipt cream with which has been mixed some 
 Vanille sugar, and send it then to table. They look extremely well by 
 giving them a light-fawn tint. 
 
 This is done by placing them in the oven for a few minutes, and 
 watching them attentively, and turning them round till they obtain the 
 desired tint, but they should be attended to from the time you place 
 them in the oven till you take them out. And they will only take a 
 very few minutes to finish them. And let me say, after a very little 
 practice you can finish them in a variety of ways. 
 
 Meranque with Almonds a la Creme. —Wash half-a-pound 
 of almonds in some warm water, then put in a quart of boiling water 
 and let them boil for about five minutes, when try them by lifting out 
 a spoonful, and, if by rubbing them between the finger and thumb, the 
 skins readily come off the almonds, they will do. 
 
 Then strain them on to a sieve and pour over them some cold water; 
 after this put them in a clean dry cloth and rub them well together to 
 remove the skins, then pick out the almonds and throw the skins away. 
 Now with a very sharp knife cut each almond in fine shreds, and when 
 all are cut place them to dry in the screen, and when so, finish another 
 of your built rings the same as for the meranque Suisse, only using 
 almonds instead of shred pistachios, and finish in the same way, using 
 whipt cream mixed with a little Vanille sugar to sweeten it. 
 
 Take care the whipt cream has been whipt till it is as firm as meranque 
 before filling the meranque which you have made. But you must not 
 whip it too much or it will become nearly butter; but if your cream is 
 very fresh and sweet there will be no difficulty ; if so, add a little melted 
 gelatine, and let it stand on some ice for an hour before using it. 
 
 Stewed Pippins and Rice a l’Anglaise. —Take half-a-pound of 
 rice and spread it out on a sheet of paper (and Caroline rice is the best). 
 
140 STEWED PIPPINS AND RICE A L’ANGLAISE. 
 
 pick out any soiled grains or black specks, and then wash it well in luke¬ 
 warm water and strain it off, and place it in three pints of boiling water 
 and let it boil two or three minutes. 
 
 Then strain it off and cover it with milk, which should be about two 
 inches above, and let this boil, stirring it till it does so ; then fix on the 
 lid firmly and let it gently simmer for about half-an-hour, and when 
 quite tender, which you can judge by squeezing a bit between the finger 
 and thumb, sweeten it with Vanille sugar, and place half of it aside in a 
 kitchen pan for the present. 
 
 Then prepare two ounces of pied de veau gelatine , letting it soak in 
 water for ten minutes, when place it in a small stew-pan and cover it with 
 one gill of boiling water, stirring till it boils; then take two border 
 moulds, similar to what is in the third page of illustrations, in the second 
 row; see they are very clean. 
 
 Now, mix your gelatine with the rice in the stew-pan, and add a 
 little cream, the rice mixing all well together; and making enough to 
 fill the two border moulds, adding a little of your reserve of rice if you 
 need. Add also the grating of a fragrant lemon and a little grated 
 nutmeg, and sweeten it to your palate, and when it begins to set , which it 
 will soon do by the aid of a little ice, fill the border moulds and place 
 them in the larder till you need them, placing them in a pan with a 
 little ice round them. Remember my quantities apply to two dishes, 
 and if you need but one use half. And now take twenty-four pippins 
 for stewing, and in the first instance squeeze two lemons in a basin, and 
 add half-a-pound of powdered sugar and a quart of water and the rind 
 of one lemon grated, then with your small sharp knife peel the pippins 
 evenly, and take a suitable size tin cutter from the case of long cutters; 
 cut out the cores from the pippins as you do them. You must do this 
 cautiously, placing the cutter in the centre of the pippin, but only 
 pressing it half way through, and then turn the pippin round and cut 
 through the other half. 
 
 Now, let me add, this process is necessary to prevent the pippin 
 from splitting, and when you have cut through from each side force 
 out the core, and your cutter should not be more than a quarter 
 of an inch in diameter. 
 
STEWED PEACHES AND RICE A L’AMERICAINE. 141 
 
 According as you finish them, place them in the lemon juice,, 
 sugar, and water (and, let me add, it is best to cut out the cores 
 before peeling the pippins'); and when all are finished place then on the 
 fire to very slowly simmer; and you must not leave them, but con¬ 
 stantly attend to them while they are simmering, turning them with a 
 perforated spoon so as to cook them equally, and if not attended to, one 
 side will burst before the other is done. 
 
 When you think they are done run a sharp-pointed wooden skewer 
 through them, and if it passes easily be sure they are done, then 
 place them on a hair sieve, and bear in mind that some of the 
 pippins will cook more quickly than others, and this is why they 
 require good attention. 
 
 When they are all done, place them in a kitchen-pan with a few 
 spoonsful of the liquor they were boiled in, and then reduce the 
 remainder to one gill, which reserve; and now place half a pound 
 of sugar with one gill of water on the fire to make into syrup, and 
 make it cold as soon as you can. 
 
 When you dish the pippins proceed as follows :—Turn out the two 
 borders of rice by dipping them in warm water on to the dishes 
 intended for them, then fill up the hole in each pippin with red 
 currant jelly ; and a good way to do this is to place the long cutter 
 half full of red currant jelly in the pippins, and with a skewer force 
 the jelly in each ; and after this mix some syrup with your reserve 
 of rice, and place some of this in each border so as to nearly fill 
 the centre of each, then on this build up in a pile the twelve pippins. 
 
 Now let me add that the red currant jelly should show in each, 
 and you can use dried cherries and angelica leaves to ornament 
 them ; and before sending them away pour a little of the reduced 
 syrup over them, and then send to table. 
 
 Stewed Peaches and Rice a l’Americaine. —Prepare the rice 
 as for the above, filling two borders and keeping half in reserve. Then 
 open two pint cans of American preserved peaches (which are preserved 
 in halves), cut each half in two, and then turn out the rice borders, 
 and with the reserve of rice fill up the centres three-parts full, 
 adding a little rice as for the pippins. 
 
142 
 
 CROQUANT STANDS FOR MERANQUES, ETC. 
 
 Then dish the quarters of peaches in a circular form, and the soft 
 
 rice in the centre will enable you to do this in perfection. When 
 
 % 
 
 both are dished add to the syrup that came from the peaches a full 
 tablespoonful of powdered sugar and a wine-glass of maraschino, mask 
 the pieces or quarter of peaches with a little of this, and fill up the 
 hole in the centre with some whipt cream. 
 
 You can also garnish the top of the border with a few dried cherries 
 and some leaves cut from some green angelica which has been 
 preserved, and send them to table. 
 
 Stewed Apricots and Rice a la Portuguaise. —Prepare the 
 rice and borders exactly as the above. Then open two pint cans of 
 Ponson’s Portugal apricots, taking care of the syrup that is in each, and 
 dish them on the soft rice in a pile. 
 
 Then, having sweetened the syrup, add a glass of brandy to it and 
 mask the apricots with a little of it, and pour the rest in the centre. 
 Now add a neat pile of whipt cream in the centre, which should be 
 sweetened—about three-parts of a pint should do for the two dishes— 
 and garnisha fter the same manner as for the above. 
 
 Croquant Stands for Meranques, &c. —Weigh one pound of 
 sifted flour; mix this with half-a-pound of powdered sugar, then three 
 whole eggs, or six yolks of eggs, and mix into a very stiff paste, adding 
 a little water if needed. Roll it out as thick as an old penny piece, and 
 cut it into rounds six inches in diameter; prick these with a fork in a 
 dozen places on the surface, then place them on a buttered baking-sheet, 
 and bake them of a light brown colour; then pile them up one upon 
 another and place on them a 4-lb. weight to keep them level 3 when cold 
 place them away for use when needed. 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 SAY FOR APRIL 7 th, 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Puree of Asparagus Soup. 
 
 Consomme of Fowl, with Rice 
 
 (Two Fish.) 
 
 Creams of John Dorys, with Prawn Sauce. 
 
 Mullets, au four a l’ltalienne. 
 
 (Four Entrees.) 
 
 Two Cutlets of Lamb, with Asparagus Peas, a l’Espagnol. 
 Two Vol au Vents of Sweetbreads of Veal, a la Toulouse. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton, a P Essence. 
 
 * Pigeon Pie, a l'Anglaise. 
 
 2ND Service. 
 
 Roast Quails. Roast Fowls Piquee. 
 
 (Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Fonds of French Artichokes, a l'ltalienne. 
 
 (Removes.) 
 
 Pudding of Preserved Ginger, a la Fran£aise. 
 
 Beignets of Rice, a l’Anglaise. 
 
 (Four Entremets.) 
 
 Two Chatreuses of Peaches a l’Americain. 
 
 Two Pains de Prunes d’Orleans a la Wind or. 
 
 Savoury Entremets of Cheese : 
 
 Two Crepenettes au Parmesan a la Moderne. 
 
 Side Table—Vegetables in Season, Salad, Sauces, &c. 
 
146 
 
 GREENGROCER. 
 
 With regard to the soups, sauces, and jellies, &c., pursue exactly the 
 same course as in the instructions given in the first number of this 
 work. The foundation sauces must always be the same; and, during the 
 cool months of the year, you can never be in error by getting forward 
 with them. 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and veal, and without 
 bones; four calf’s feet; two pounds slice of veal; two pounds of gravy 
 beef; three necks of lamb ; four white throat-breads of veal; one haunch 
 of mutton ; four pounds of rump steak. The soup meat and calf’s feet 
 to be in the kitchen by 9 o’clock on the morning of April the 5th; also 
 the slice of veal and the gravy beef; the other things at the same hour 
 on the morning of the 6th. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 Three medium sized John Dorys ; two dozen fine prawns; eight red 
 mullets; one gill of live lobster spawn. The John Dorys and the live 
 lobster spawn to be in the kitchen by ten o’clock on the morning of 
 April the 6th ; the mullets on the morning of April the 7th. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Six pigeons, boned ; two fowls trussed for roasting, and to be larded ; 
 eight quails, for roasting; one-and-a-half pound of sausage meat; two 
 old hens. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Four heads of celery; ten lemons; one dozen onions; one dozen 
 carrots ; half bunch of parsley; ditto lemon thyme; three quarts of 
 young peas in tin canisters ; one large dish of spring spinach; one dish 
 of sea-kale ; twelve pounds of potatoes of the same size ; one-and-a-half 
 pint of asparagus peas; two bunches of water-cress ; one basket of 
 fresh champignons. One bunch of sprew grass, half a bunch of young 
 onions, one salad, three lettuce, by ten o’clock on the morning of 
 April 5th. 
 
consommB of fowl with rice. 
 
 T 47 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 Two pint cans of American peaches ; half pound of preserved ginger, 
 in glass bottle ; half pound of Parmesan cheese ; half pound of preserved 
 pine-apple ; one pint can of truffles; two and a half pint cans of mush¬ 
 rooms ; one bottle of cockscombs; four pounds of salt butter; two 
 pounds of fresh ditto ; one pot of apricot jam ; two quarts of very fresh 
 double cream; two ditto of milk ; twenty-four fresh eggs ; two pounds 
 of powdered sugar ; two and a half quartern loaves (yesterday's baking); 
 and two quart cans of preserved bottoms of French artichokes. For April 
 5th, in the morning. 
 
 Asparagus Soup. —Break off the points of a bundle of Sprew 
 asparagus, as far as they are tender and will readily break; add to these 
 a good double handful of spinach and a handful of spring onions ; two 
 lettuce ; wash well in two waters ; cut them up, place about three quarts 
 of water in a stew-pan to boil, and when it does so, add a table-spoonful 
 of salt ; put the asparagus, two lettuce, spinach, and onions in this to boil, 
 and as soon as they come to a boil strain them off, and put them in one 
 quart of best white stock to slowly boil till they are quite tender, when 
 strain it off; about half-an-hour should be sufficient to cook the asparagus, 
 lettuce, and onions. Reserve the stock they were boiled in, and pound 
 the above vegetables in a mortar till quite a pulp, when place them 
 again in the reserved stock. Bring to the boil; then rub through a 
 tammy cloth, and place it in a soup bain-marie, and add to it sufficient 
 veloute sauce to make the quantity of soup you require, which should 
 be about two quarts. Place it on the fire or hot-plate, and bring to the 
 boil, adding a little salt and sugar, and skim it. Be sure it is of the 
 right consistency, and mark it off. If not quite green enough, add the 
 juice from a handful of well-pounded spinach, which place in a cloth 
 and twist the juice into a small pan, which add to the soup before 
 serving, or add a little French vegetable green, which is now kept in 
 store at most Italian warehouses for this purpose. 
 
 Consomme of Fowl with Rice.—Mark off two quarts of best 
 
 brown gravy in a soup bain-marie, and bring it to the boil; boil also one- 
 
 gill of rice in two quarts of water till tender, then strain it off, and 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS. 
 
 place it in two quarts of cold water; wash it well in this, and then strain 
 it again and place it in a pan with a little cold water, and put it in the 
 larder till half an hour before serving the dinner, when the rice should be 
 again looked to, and the water changed several times till what it remains 
 in is perfectly clear, when it should be strained off and placed in 
 your soup-tureen, and the hot gravy poured very gently into the 
 tureen, and serve. 
 
 Note .— Washing the Rice .—The cause for so frequently doing this is 
 to prevent it being milky , for if it was put into your clear soup in a 
 milky state, it would spoil the soup, giving it a milky tint. When your 
 clear gravy boils, add a little sugar and salt, skim it, and mark it off. 
 
 THE FISH. 
 
 Cremes of John Dory with Prawn Sauce. —Cut the fillets 
 
 from three dorys of medium size, and pound the white flesh therefrom ; 
 pass it through a wire quenelle sieve, and finish in all respects the same 
 as for the cremes of haddock described at page 103. The prawn sauce 
 will be described in the list of sauces found a few pages forward. The 
 bones of the Dorys should be stewed for their essence. 
 
 Mullets au four a l’ltalienne. —Place the mullets on a saut6- 
 pan rubbed with a little butter ; rub a little also on each of the fish; 
 add . a glass of sherry and about one gill of second stock, and cover 
 with a round of buttered paper. When you cook them place them in a 
 rather hot oven for about fifteen minutes, watch them, and baste them 
 several times, and when done, if any liquor remains, pour it over the 
 fish; keep this hot; and, when sent to table, the Italienne sauce should 
 be poured over and round the fish, and serve. See list of sauces for 
 Italienne sauce. 
 
 THE ENTREES. 
 
 Cutlets of Lamb, with Asparagus Peas, a l’Espagnol. 
 
 Vol-au-Vents of Sweetbreads of Veal a la Toulouse. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets.—In preparing the necks of lamb for cutlets care 
 should be taken that the lamb or lambs from which they have been 
 or are about to be cut should be killed two or three days. You will 
 
VOL-AU-VENTS A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 149 
 
 require three necks to make two handsome dishes, with a bone in each; 
 so cut off the scrags leaving eight bones in each neck; then carefully 
 saw away each chine bone, being very careful not to cut the fillets, and 
 if you have a good saw, and hold it in a slightly upward position (I 
 mean the teeth of the saw towards the chine bone), you can avoid cutting 
 the fillet, by doing which you would disfigure the cutlets. When you 
 have removed the chine bones, be careful also to cut away the tops of 
 the ribs in such a manner that when your cutlets are prepared they are 
 all of the same size, with the bones not too long and not too short, but 
 of a nice medium length. Then cut them from the neck with a bone in 
 each, and as near the same size as possible, and arrange them on a dish 
 or plate before you cut them into shape. Do this by lightly patting each 
 with your cutlet chopper, striking each cutlet with the flat side. Then 
 cut off the superfluous fat and parts not needed, cutting each cutlet so 
 as to leave the bone at the top free from flesh, and standing out about 
 half-an-inch. As you prepare, or cut into its proper shape, each cutlet 
 ready for bread-crumbing, place them on a separate plate, forming a 
 circle and leaning on each other ; when all are cut into shape, crack two 
 whole eggs; two yolks should be parted and added to these, with some 
 pepper and salt, and then beaten together; when one cutlet at a time 
 should be dipped into the egg and then into the bread crumbs (remove 
 a little of the egg with the forefinger of the left hand, so that they do 
 not go into the bread crumbs sloppy); when all are dipped into the 
 bread crumbs, with your knife pat them into shape; when each should 
 be dipped into some warm clarified butter, and again into bread crumbs. 
 When all are done, make them into a nice shape, and run some clarified 
 butter into two suitably-sized saute-pans, and place an equal number in 
 each. Cut two rounds of paper and cover them, and mark off. When 
 prepared for dinner, they should be fried of a light brown colour, a nice 
 pile of asparagus peas served in each dish, of a bright green, and Espag- 
 nol sauce served round them (the sauce made very hot and served round 
 them at the last moment); the asparagus peas should have a little sugar 
 and a spoonful of sauce mixed with them before being placed in the 
 centre of the cutlets. 
 
 Vol-au-Vents a la Toulouse. —Let the four throat sweetbreads 
 
YOL-AU-VENTS A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 150 
 
 of veal boil in a quart of water very slowly for about half-an-hour, 
 when place them in cold water. Now prepare the vol-au-vent cases 
 as follows : Weigh and sift 2 lbs. of the very best flour , also 2 lbs. of 
 good butter (good salt butter is best for this purpose); place the butter 
 in a couple of quarts of cold water, with a double handful of clean ice 
 in it, and when it has been there a few minutes work it well together , 
 so as to make it smooth and fir?n ; still leave it in the ice water till you 
 are ready for it. Now take a piece of the butter, as big as a walnut, 
 and rub this into the flour (a small part at first, and then into the whole 
 of the flour afterwards). Then make the flour into a heap and leave a 
 hole in the centre ; squeeze into this the juice from half a lemon; add 
 about one pint or three gills of water, and mix into a piece of dough of 
 about the same firmness as the butter; (to make your butter and dough 
 of equal firmness will enable you to make good paste). When the dough 
 is mixed, and has been moulded into a compact body, cover it over 
 with a damp cloth and let it remain for ten minutes. Then roll it out 
 into a thin oval sheet of about a quarter of an inch thick, and turn the 
 oval piece of paste so as to lay in front of you, that is to say, lengthwise. 
 Then take your prepared butter and make it into a roll, and place this 
 on the left-hand side of the paste, leaving a margin of about half-an-inch 
 on which to overlap the right-hand end. It should then be somewhat 
 in the shape of an apple puff. And now close , and press closely together 
 the upper part on the margin left; it should be pressed tightly with your 
 right-hand thumb all round, so as to prevent the butter escaping when 
 rolling it. Now take the paste in your left hand, throw some flour 
 lightly on the slab close in front of you, and place the paste with the half 
 oval part—that you closed with your thumb—before you, and roll it out as 
 nearly as you can into a square piece not thicker than a half-inch, or a 
 quarter of an inch would be better, then fold it, beginning with the 
 end close to you, and letting this end overlap till it reaches exactly to 
 the centre; then letting the far end opposite you completely overlap 
 the part you have just folded over ; this will leave a long piece in front 
 of you. Now fold one end exactly in the centre, and then fold over 
 the other end, so as to leave a square piece of paste in front of you or 
 before you. This is what is called, in kitchen parlance, “ one roll,” and 
 
VOL-AU-VENTS A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 151 
 
 the paste will require four rolls , but you must commence each time 
 from a different side when you fold it, so that if you begin from the 
 right, you must next begin from the left, and next from the side 
 farthest from you, and, finally, with that side nearest to you. The 
 paste should rest ten minutes between each roll, and be covered each 
 time with a damp cloth. If the weather is at all warm, place a little 
 pounded ice in a tin dish, and on this a tin containing the paste, and 
 on the top another tin with some more pounded ice, so that your paste 
 has ice on the top and on the bottom. After its final roll it should rest 
 another ten minutes before using. 
 
 When you cut out the vol-au-vent cases roll out the paste so that it 
 shows an even surface of about one inch thick, or a little less, mark 
 the size you want with the back of a tin cutter or stew-pan lid, then, with 
 your second size knife dipped in some boiling water, cut right through 
 the paste with your hot knife, following the round ring you previously 
 made; and so cut out the vol-au-vent case, and proceed to do the same 
 with the other. When both are ready, take a level baking-sheet and 
 turn over each case as you put them upon the baking-sheet (so as to 
 show the bottom side up). Then take one yolk of an egg, add to this 
 a few drops of water and mix together, then egg over with your egg¬ 
 brush lightly the surface of the vol-au-vent case ; then, leaving a margin 
 of half an inch to form the outside border, cut a round ring inside this 
 margin about one-eighth of an inch deep, and with your small knife 
 mark on this central piece an imitation of a leaf. Do this with each, 
 and then bake them in an oven of good sound heat, that is to say, one 
 not likely to burn your vol-au-vent cases. If you think they are getting 
 too brown cover them with paper folded twice, which will prevent this. 
 Directly they are done, or baked, cut out the centre piece carefully and 
 remove the soft paste from the inside ; and take care of the centres, as 
 they form the tops when sending to table. Now, to cause you to give 
 attention to the above instructions, I have no hesitation in saying there 
 is nothing in the whole range of culinary operations that requires greater 
 skill than to make and bake a good vol-au-vent case. 
 
 Note .—The filling, or ragout h. la Toulouse for filling the cases, will 
 be found in the List of Sauces a few pages from this. (See Index.) 
 
HOT PIGEON PIE. 
 
 152 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton a l’Essence. 
 
 Hot Pie of Pigeons a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton a l'Essence. —The haunch should 
 be trimmed and the shank bone sawed off, and marked off in the 
 larder. It should roast slowly for 2 J hours, and some best brown gravy 
 be served under it, and some red currant jelly in a sauce-boat when 
 sending to table. 
 
 Hot Pigeon Pie. —Chop a handful of picked parsley, and the 
 same of mushrooms, very fresh, or preserved in two cans, chop up also 
 the pigeons’ livers and hearts. Mix these with ij lb. of sausage meat, 
 adding a little seasoning, a little herbaceous mixture, and three yolks of 
 eggs. When these ingredients are well mixed divide it into twelve equal 
 parts, then take the six boned pigeons, cut off the legs and pinions and 
 part of the rump. Spread them out and place in each part a portion 
 of the prepared and divided sausage meat, and roll each into an oblong 
 shape, and place on a dish as you do them. Then cut into scollops 
 the 4 lbs. of rump steak, which should be neatly cut; and if the steak 
 is fat, cut a portion of the fat away, and season lightly. Then, having 
 boiled four eggs ten minutes, place them in cold water for a few minutes ; 
 then remove the shells ; and now roll out your trimmings of puff paste 
 left from the vol-au-vents (roll it out into one square piece), then 
 take a suitably sized pie dish, that the pigeons and steak when placed in 
 it will nicely fill. And now cut off the rough end of the paste you 
 have just rolled out (about as big as an orange), and rub as much plain 
 flour into it as you have of paste, well mix the two, then roll it out into 
 a long piece in length sufficient to go round the pie dish. Then, egging 
 the border of the dish with yolk of egg, place the paste you have 
 rubbed the flour into round the edge ; then arrange the steak and 
 pigeons in the dish—first the steak, then the pigeons, then some of 
 the eggs cut in quarters, and so on, till the dish is filled. When giving 
 the paste for the pie another roll out, and folding it evenly, then again 
 egging the paste round the border, roll the paste out which you have 
 prepared to the size which will cover the dish, cover the pie with the 
 
GINGER PUDDING. 
 
 153 
 
 same, pressing it well down on the egged border, and the same 
 round the meat, and cut off the paste not needed, crimp that 
 forming the border, and neatly notch round the edge, and egg over 
 the top, and make a hole in the centre; then you must again roll 
 out the trimming of paste left, aud round the hole in the centre 
 form a handsome crown of leaves made from your remaining paste. 
 Bake this in a suitable oven, that is say, of good sound heat, but 
 not rash ; it will take about one hour and a half to cook, or probably 
 two hours, according to the oven. It should be kept hot, and before 
 sending in to dinner, be filled up with some boiling hot best brown 
 gravy, dished on a napkin or another dish, and sent away. 
 
 Note .-—Some use the pigeons’ feet by placing them between the 
 leaves before baking ; but this is optional. 
 
 THE SECOND-COURSE ROAST. 
 
 Roast Quails barded, with Espagnol Sauce. 
 
 Roast Fowls barded, with Bread Sauce. 
 
 The quails will take about half-an-hour to roast. Send in a little 
 plain Espagnol sauce under them. The barded fowls will take three- 
 quarters-of-an-hour to roast. Send in plain gravy under them and bread 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 THE SECOND-COURSE VEGETABLES FOR SECOND- 
 
 COURSE ROASTS. 
 
 Two of French Artichokes a l’ltalienne. —Open two quart 
 cans of bottoms of French artichokes; make them hot in their liquor, 
 with half a pint of stock; to which add the juice of half a lemon, a pat of 
 butter, and a little pepper and salt; dish them on a slight border of 
 potato paste, the cup part upward, and pour in them very hot an Italian 
 sauce, a little in each, and the rest round them, and serve. 
 
 REMOVES OF SECOND-COURSE ROAST. 
 
 Ginger Pudding a la Fran^aise. 
 
 Rice Fritters a l’Ancienne. 
 
 Ginger Pudding. —3 gills of milk, 9 ounces of superfine flour, 2 
 ounces of sugar, 6 ounces of fresh butter, 6 whole eggs, half-pint bottle 
 
BEIGNETS OF RICE AU CONSERVE. 
 
 154 
 
 of preserved ginger in syrup. Place the milk, sugar, and butter on the 
 fire in a two-quart stew-pan to boil, and sift the flour; also carefully 
 crack the eggs, smelling each one to see none are musty. When the 
 milk boils, stir in the sifted flour rapidly, and keep stirring over the fire 
 for about a couple of minutes; then draw it aside and add the eggs, 
 two at a time, and when four have been stirred in, stir over the fire 
 again for a couple of minutes, when add the other two eggs. Now place 
 the mixture where it can become cold; while in the meantime open the 
 half-pint of preserved ginger, pouring the syrup into a small stew-pan, 
 then wash the ginger in about one gill of hot water, adding this water to 
 the ginger syrup, which place aside for the present. Dry the ginger in 
 a cloth, then cut it into very thin slices, and stir them into the pudding, 
 now becoming cold; then well butter with clarified butter, which has 
 been creamed (which means beaten with a spoon till it has become white 
 like cream), and place this in an oval or plain round pudding mould 
 that will hold a full quart. When well buttered, cut out a sheet of 
 paper that will fit on the bottom of the inside of the mould; butter 
 this also, after it has been placed in the mould, and put the pudding, 
 into which the ginger has been stirred, into the buttered mould. Screw 
 a piece of buttered paper over the mould, and then place it in a 
 suitable-sized stew-pan, with a sheet of paper folded in four, for the 
 pudding mould to stand or rest upon. 
 
 When you cook it, place enough water in the stew-pan to reach half 
 way up the pudding mould; then place it on the hot-plate to slowly 
 boil for three-quarters-of-an-hour; when turned out to send to table, 
 pour the ginger pudding sauce round and over the pudding, and send 
 to table. 
 
 Note .—The Ginger Pudding Sauce in List of Sauces. 
 
 Beignets of Rice au Conserve. —Wash half-a-pound of Caro¬ 
 lina rice, and strain it on a sieve; look it over and pick out any soiled 
 grains or specks that may be among it, then throw it in one quart of 
 boiling water, and when the water again boils, strain off the rice and 
 place it in a three-pint stew-pan with a tight-fitting lid. 
 
 Add enough milk and cream mixed to be about one inch above the 
 rice, adding to this one tablespoonful of Vanilla sugar, and let it boil 
 
SECOND COURSE COLD SWEETS. 
 
 *55 
 
 very slowly for abou‘t half-an-hour; then examine the same, and if the 
 grains of rice are soft, and will smash between the finger and thumb 
 readily, and the rice well adheres together and shows a compact mass, 
 it will thus far do. 
 
 Then crack six very fresh eggs, separating the yolks from the whites, 
 and smelling each, for fear of a musty one; then place the whites aside, 
 stir the yolks one at a time into the rice till all are used; then stir the 
 rice over the fire for two minutes, to partly set the yolks. 
 
 When such has been done, and you see the rice has become firmer 
 thereby, turn the same on a china dish, and with your knife flatten the 
 same till it is about half an inch thick all over, and pat the edges so as 
 to make it a solid mass. When cold, or nearly so, cut it in round pieces 
 with a tin cutter, about the size in diameter of half-a-crown (and by 
 dipping the cutter in a little hot water you can cut them out more 
 readily and of a better shape). When all are cut out, dip them into 
 some finely made bread crumbs, patting each one to make the crumbs 
 adhere, and place them on a dish as you do them (about sixteen will be 
 the number required). Then cut a slit on the side of each, and with your 
 knife partly open the centre by cutting the side, and introduce a little 
 apricot or other conserve. When this has been done, crack two whole 
 eggs and two yolks, with a wee bit of salt to thin the eggs; beat 
 these together and dip each one, or with your egg-brush egg each over 
 on a plate (on which should be a little egg); then dip each one into 
 the bread crumbs carefully, so as not to break them, and again pat them 
 into shape, and put them on a dish sprinkled with bread crumbs, and 
 with a sheet of buttered paper over them mark off in larder. They are 
 cooked by frying in hot and clean hog’s lard of a light gold colour, then 
 sprinkle over them some powdered sugar in which has been mixed some 
 Vanille sugar, and salamander them ; dish in a pile, and pour round 
 them a red currant jelly sauce, or an apricot sauce, and serve. See 
 Sauce List, page 159. 
 
 SECOND-COURSE COLD SWEETS. 
 
 Two Chatreuses of Peaches h l’Americaine. 
 
 Two Pains ofjDrlean Plums a la Windsor. 
 
156 
 
 CHATREUSES OF PEACHES. 
 
 Chatreuses of Peaches. —Take two plain quart moulds, which 
 should be very clean. Put them in a pan with a little ice round them, 
 and having melted about three pints of jelly pour about half a gill into 
 each plain mould; fix a fruit bottle, very clean and half full of cold 
 water, exactly in the centre of each mould in which you have just 
 poured the melted jelly; and as the jelly sets the bottles will keep 
 upright. Then, having opened two i| pints of American preserved 
 peaches, take them from the cans (reserving the juice), wash them in a 
 little warm water and place them on a clean hair sieve ; then cut 
 each half exactly in two, then cut each quarter in a slanting direction 
 into pieces about one inch long and a quarter of an inch thick. As 
 you cut them place them on a clean plate beside you; and when you 
 have cut up, say four halves of peaches, in the way above directed, 
 with a clean wooden skewer, with the point made sharp, proceed to 
 make a row at the bottom of the mould, each piece of peach overlap¬ 
 ping the other about half way, or, in other words, dishing the pieces of 
 peach en meriton round the mould. When a row is placed evenly in 
 each mould then stir into your jelly half a small tumbler of Maras¬ 
 chino (and have a plated table spoon to use while filling the moulds in 
 with jelly). 
 
 Now cover the two layers of peaches with jelly in each mould, and 
 while they are setting, cut up in the same form, or as near as possible, 
 other peaches; then proceed again with another layer, letting the 
 pieces of peach run or point in a contrary direction, that is, the first 
 layer pointing to the left, and the second layer to the right, and with 
 the outside of each piece of peach to the outside of the mould; 
 and so continue till the moulds are completed, but do not let them 
 be quite full of peaches , leaving about a quarter of an inch to fill up 
 with jelly, which will give them strength when being turned out, 
 particularly in hot weather. 
 
 While the peaches and jelly are setting melt an ounce of pied de 
 veau gelatine, which has been in soak in cold water, and whip half a 
 pint of very fresh cream till it stands up like meranque (and rub your 
 rough parts of the peaches, and any that are too soft for cutting, through 
 a hair sieve, enough to make half a pint of puree or pulp of peaches), 
 
PAINS OF ORLEAN PLUMS A LA WINDSOR. I 57 
 
 which sweeten and add a wine glass of brandy to the same : make the 
 ounce of gelatine hot, adding two or three spoonsful of jelly to the 
 same. 
 
 Now if the peaches and the jelly in your moulds show and feel 
 quite firm pour out the cold water from the two fruit bottles and 
 pour in some warm water, one at a time; let the warm water remain 
 in the bottle a few seconds, then pour out the warm water, and by blow¬ 
 ing down outside the bottle, and very gently twisting the bottle, it will 
 readily come away; and serve the other the same. And when this is 
 accomplished, make the melted gelatine quite hot, add the puree of peaches 
 to the gelatine, and then mix in your whipt cream, mixing well ; with 
 this fill up each cavity or hole left by removing the two bottles, and let 
 them remain to set, and finally fill in a little pink (very pale pink) jelly 
 into two pint jelly moulds without flutes ; a little more than a half 
 pint of jelly should be sufficient for the small moulds. They are, 
 when your chatreuses are turned out on their appointed dishes, to be 
 turned out also and placed on the top of your chatreuses, and then in 
 due course sent away. 
 
 Pains of Orlean Plums a la Windsor. —Blanch one ounce of 
 pistachio nuts, that is to say, boil them in water for two minutes, then 
 rub them in a clean cloth till the skins come off, when pick out the 
 green nuts, and cut each nut in two, then cut each half into shreds; 
 then take half a pint of jelly, which should be melted but not warm, 
 and into this place about three leaves of gold leaf (open a book of gold 
 leaf and blow them into the jelly, and then with a plated fork beat the 
 gold-leaf into particles); add a few shred pistachio nuts to the jelly, and 
 ornament two quart jelly moulds with this, by putting a spoonful into 
 each mould, and when that is set add a little more, till you have equally 
 divided this gold-leaf between the two jelly moulds, which place where 
 the jelly will become quite set. Then open two quart bottles of pre¬ 
 served Orlean plums and put them in a stew-pan to boil for a few 
 minutes till they have become a pulp. Then rub them through a hair 
 sieve, and place this in a basin. Then pound the stones in a mortar to 
 smash the kernels, and place these on the fire in a stew-pan to boil with 
 about one gill of water and four spoonsful of powdered sugar, and let 
 
158 
 
 ENTREMET OF CHEESE. 
 
 simmer for about ten minutes, when strain the essence into the pulp 
 from the plums, which measure and again place on the fire to boil. 
 You should have about three pints; add to this half a pound of pow¬ 
 dered lump sugar, and the juice of one large lemon, and one wine glass full 
 of brandy, and a little prepared cochineal, just enough to enliven the colour 
 of the plums. Let come to the boil, and then see if it is sufficiently 
 palatable. When place in a quart of cold water one quarter pound of pied 
 de veau gelatine for ten minutes. Be particular in seeing that the pulp 
 from the plums is of a good rich flavour, which can be increased by the 
 juice of another lemon and a little more powdered sugar and another 
 half glass of brandy. Now look to your gelatine, strain it on a sieve, 
 and stir it into the plum mixture, adding about an ounce at a time, and 
 when such is quite dissolved add some more, and so on, till all is used ; 
 but be particular that the gelatine is entirely dissolved, when place the 
 stew-pan in a pan of cold water with some ice round it, and keep the 
 mixture stirred till it is beginning to set, when fill the two jelly moulds 
 with it, which you ornamented with gold-leaf and pistachio nuts and 
 placed in the larder to become quite set, putting them in a pan with a 
 little ice round them. 
 
 When turning out, the best plan is to plunge the mould right into a 
 half pail of warm water and withdraw it instantly, when dry the mould 
 with a cloth, and then give the mould a slight shake between your two 
 hands, and when you feel it is loose turn each carefully on to a silver 
 dish, adding a few spoonsful of custard flavoured with a little Vanille 
 sugar round each before sending away. 
 
 Entremet of Cheese—Crepenettes au Parmesan a la 
 Moderne. —Roll out some trimmings of puff paste, in which you have 
 mixed a small handful of flour, into a square sheet as thick as a 
 shilling ; cut this into equal size pieces four inches long and one inch 
 wide. Then mix into a small teacup of quenelle of fowl or veal 
 two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a little cayenne, and a tea¬ 
 spoonful of fresh-made mustard; mix these well together, then prepare 
 two or three corneys made from foolscap paper, leaving a hole in the 
 pointed end a quarter of an inch in diameter, fill one of your 
 corneys half full with the prepared quenelle, then take two yolks 
 
SAUCE FOR THE DINNER. 159 
 
 of eggs and add to these half a teaspoonful of water, and mix 
 together. 
 
 Now with the corney make down the one side of each strip of paste 
 a length of quenelle a little thicker than a penny pencil, but do not 
 let the quenelle reach quite to the end of the paste; about twenty is the 
 number you will require, and place the length of quenelle on each piece 
 of paste, then proceed to finish as follows :—Roll one over by way of 
 trial, and if the paste nicely covers the quenelle they will do, but if too 
 wide cut a strip off before you commence; then dip your brush very 
 lightly in the yolks, and egg over each piece of paste before you enclose 
 the quenelle, which should be done in a neat manner, and cut off the 
 ends ; after closing in the quenelle, throw a few bread crumbs on a dish, 
 and, as you finish, place them on the same. And when all are done 
 thus far, crack a whole egg and add it to what yolk of egg you have left. 
 Beat together with a little salt, then egg over each one on a plate, and 
 coat them with very fine fresh-made bread crumbs, with which has been 
 mixed a little grated Parmesan cheese. 
 
 Then again arrange on a china dish or saute-pan, with bread crumbs 
 sprinkled upon it, and placed in the larder till needed. When prepared 
 for dinner they should be fried in clean hog’s lard, and dished on 
 dessert papers in two neat piles with a little fried parsley to garnish 
 them, and sent away very hot. 
 
 Sauces for the Dinner. —We will again suppose this to be the 
 morning of the day of the dinner, and we will repeat the advice 
 previously given. Look carefully through the month’s Bill of Fare, 
 and also through the Requisition List, and make sure that the dinner 
 is progressing in a satisfactory manner ; from the instructions given and 
 yet to be given, each reader will or should be enabled to send such a 
 dinner from the kitchen in first-class style, as we have here described, 
 for we feel we are speaking to those who are more or less practical, 
 and more or less advanced in their profession of a cook; and as we 
 have long lists of descriptions in each branch to give, we shall have to 
 be sparing of our space. 
 
 We will, therefore, copy out the list of sauces for the menu of this 
 month of April. Feeling confident, from the clear descriptions given, 
 
l6o PRAWN SAUCE FOR CREMES OF DORYS. 
 
 and the many things yet to be offered to the notice of our readers, that 
 after the list of sauces has been given, and the necessary instructions 
 given in reference to the same, they will be able to send the above 
 dinner away (if only in imagination) without the author’s further 
 assistance. 
 
 List of Sauces for the dinner of April yth :— 
 
 Prawn sauce for cremes of dory, one pint. 
 
 Sauce a l’ltalienne for mullet, one pint. 
 
 Espagnol sauce for lamb cutlets, one pint. 
 
 Asparagus peas for lamb cutlets, one pint. 
 
 Ragout a la Toulouse for vol-au-vents, one pint and a half. 
 
 Sauce for vol-au-vents, one pint. 
 
 Gravy for haunch of mutton, half-a-pint. 
 
 Gravy for pigeon pie, one pint. 
 
 Red currant jelly for haunch of mutton, one pot. 
 
 Financi&re sauce for quails, half-a-pint. 
 
 Bread sauce for roast fowls, half-a-pint. 
 
 Italian sauce for artichokes, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for ginger pudding, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for rice fritters, half-a-pint. 
 
 Prawn Sauce for Cremes of Dorys. —Pick three dozen fine 
 prawns, and pound the bodies in the mortar, and place them on the 
 hot-plate in a quart stew-pan with half-a-pint of second stock, let simmer 
 for ten or twenty minutes, then strain this essence into a stew-pan 
 containing half-a-pint of velout6 sauce and one gill of double cream ; 
 reduce to the consistency of melted butter. 
 
 Then add about two tablespoonsful of live lobster spawn, rubbed 
 through a hair sieve with a little water, add this and a tablespoonful of 
 anchovy sauce to the reduced veloute sauce, and stir till it becomes red, 
 then strain it through a pointed tin sieve, and stir into it a pat of butter 
 and a little lemon juice and cayenne pepper, also the picked prawns, 
 and mark in bain-marie. 
 
 Note. —When serving, the prawns should be dished in the centre of 
 the cremes and the sauce poured over the cremes and round them, 
 and serve very hot. 
 
TOULOUSE RAGOUT. 
 
 1 61 
 
 Indian Sauce for Salmon. —Place three parts of a pint of veloute 
 sauce in a quart stewpan, and mix on a plate one tablespoonful of 
 Indian chutney sauce, with one tablespoonful of Cook’s curry paste, 
 and a teaspoonful of curry powder; add a little of the veloute sauce, 
 and when w r ell mixed add them to the three parts of a pint of veloute. 
 Let come to the boil, and continue to do so for a few minutes, when 
 strain through a pointed tin strainer and mark off. A gill of best rice 
 should also be boiled till tender in one quart of water, then strained, 
 and a little hot water run over it, then placed in a small stewpan with 
 half a pint of cold water, and marked off till needed, when it should be 
 made hot, and strained, and dished beside the slices of salmon, and 
 the Indian sauce made very hot and poured round the fish, and serve. 
 
 Espagnol Sauce for Lamb Cutlets.— Place one pint of Espagnol 
 sauce in a bain-marie, and in another one pint of asparagus peas, which 
 have been boiled off, with a little sugar, and a piece of glaze, which 
 should be added to the asparagus when making hot. When the lamb 
 cutlets are fried of a nice gold colour, and dished upon two entree dishes 
 on borders of potato paste, the asparagus peas should be equally divided 
 and placed in the centre of the cutlets, and the Espagnol sauce poured 
 round and not over the cutlets , and served. And be particular not to 
 sauce till the last thing, and that your sauce is boiling hot. 
 
 Toulouse Ragout. —Open a can of truffles, one bottle of cocks¬ 
 combs, and two tin cans of champignons, and then chop two truffles 
 very fine; and now take about half the quenelle prepared on the 6th 
 from the two fillets of old hens and the slice of veal (as instructed in 
 page 7) and from which a portion was taken for the Crepenettes a la 
 Moderne. Mix the chopped truffles into this, and, when well mixed, 
 make them into round balls of the size of ordinary marbles by dusting 
 a little flour on the pastry slab to cut them out, and then make them 
 round in the palm of your left hand by rolling them round with the 
 fingers of the right hand ; as you do them, place them on a hair 
 sieve, and when finished drop them into a quart of boiling w r ater, 
 and let them keep in this on the stove (not letting them boil, but 
 nearly so) till they are firm , when strain them on to the hair sieve. 
 
 Now proceed to cut up in slices the three throat sweetbreads of veal; 
 
 M 
 
GRAVY FOR PIGEON PIE. 
 
 162 
 
 they should be about as thick as an old penny piece. When all are 
 nicely cut and trimmed, dry them on a cloth, and place them on the 
 sieve with the quenelles; then cut up eight truffles in thin slices, and 
 take one can of mushrooms out of their juice, and place the cocks¬ 
 combs in the bottle to get warm; then strain them on a sieve. The 
 combs should be looked over and trimmed, and should be placed with 
 the other items—namely, sweetbreads, mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, 
 and combs—in a two-quart stewpan, with half a pint of second stock, 
 brought to the boil, and marked off; and when wanted to fill the vol-au- 
 vent cases, they should be allowed to boil again, and become quite hot; 
 then strained off, and dried on a cloth, and placed back in the stewpan, 
 and one pint of good bechemelle sauce, nicely seasoned with salt and 
 cayenne, poured over them. And one half hour before dinner, place the 
 stewpan in the bain-marie case to get nice and hot, and the vol-au-vent 
 cases put in the screen at the same time also to become hot; and when 
 wanted for dinner , place them on the entree dishes without napkins, and 
 fill them equally with the ragout; put the tops on them, and pour a little 
 sauce round them, and send to table. 
 
 Note. — You should he very particular not to fill them till they are 
 positively asked for , so as they go right from the kitchen to be handed 
 round; and if the cases are placed in the screen one hour before they 
 are needed , all the better , as the paste will become crisp by that time. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce for Vol-au-vents. —Place in a two-quart 
 stewpan one pint of veloute sauce, let this reduce to about one-half, 
 with the juice from the two tins of mushrooms and about eight very 
 fresh champignons cut in very thin slices. When it is quite as thick as 
 double cream, and the mushrooms have well boiled in the sauce, add 
 half a pint of cream, and pass or twist through a tammy cloth, and mark 
 in a bain-marie, adding a little salt and very little cayenne pepper, and 
 mark off on your list as ready. 
 
 Gravy for Haunch of Mutton. —Half a pint of the best brown 
 gravy and one pot of red currant jelly. Mark off as ready. 
 
 Gravy for Pigeon Pie.—One pint of best gravy, which should be 
 poured into the pie from the hole in the top, and then kept hot in the 
 mouth of the oven before sending to table. 
 
WHITEBAIT. 163 
 
 Financiere Sauce for Quails. —One glass of Madeira added to 
 half a pint of Espagnol sauce; let boil and mark off. 
 
 Bread Sauce for Roast Fowls.— Cut up two shalots and boil or 
 simmer in three parts of a pint of milk for five minutes, then skim out the 
 shalots; add about four good tablespoonfuls of fresh-made bread 
 crumbs, with a pat of fresh butter, and a little pepper and salt and a 
 little drop of cream; mix well together over the fire and mark off. 
 
 Italian Sauce for Artichokes. —Chop a handful of picked 
 parsley, two shalots, and a small can of mushrooms, very fine indeed ; 
 add half a pint of Espagnol sauce, one gill of second stock, and one 
 gill of sherry, let boil down slowly to its proper consistency, adding two 
 tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar with a little sugar and salt; skim it, and 
 mark off. 
 
 Sauce for Ginger Pudding. —Mix half a teaspoonful of the best 
 ground ginger with a spoonful of water, and add this to the syrup that 
 came from the preserved ginger, and add enough sugar to make half a 
 pint of strong syrup and about three or four drops of cochineal; boil 
 together, and pass it through the pointed tin strainer after well skimming 
 the same, and mark. 
 
 Sauce for Fritters of Rice. —Mash with a spoon a pot of red 
 currant jelly, and place it in a stewpanwith a gill of water and a spoon¬ 
 ful of powdered lump sugar. When boiled so as the jelly is quite 
 melted, mark it off; and when your fritters are fried and salamandered 
 with sugar, pour the sauce round or place in the centre, and serve. 
 They should be served quite hot, and dished in a pile. 
 
 Butter Sauce for Vegetables.— About half a pint is, or should 
 be, sufficient. See Sauces in last number. 
 
 The Dinner Vegetables are—dressed spinach, seakale, cauli¬ 
 flowers, and three quarts of preserved young peas in canisters, with 
 plain boiled potatoes, and potato paste for dishing up. This completes 
 all that is required for the dinner vegetables. The fonds of artichokes 
 being finished by the stove cook. 
 
 Whitebait.— Hozo to prepare them , fry them , and send them to 
 
 table. —Two quarts will prove sufficient for a dinner of sixteen or 
 
 eighteen persons. When the fishmonger brings in the same, place 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 WHITEBAIT. 
 
 them in a kitchen pan and add about one quart of water, then place 
 with them a lump of ice, and renew the ice if it melts ; and when about 
 to fry, spread three pounds of flour on a large sheet of kitchen paper 
 with a plain sheet of paper beside, and place a bladder of lard, about 
 six pounds, in a large stewpan that will hold about three times the quantity 
 needed, and see that you have the following items ready for use : two wire 
 quenelle sieves, and one wicker sieve about sixteen inches in diameter 
 which is generally made of split cane, also a couple o^wire frying 
 baskets (which should be clean and ready for use), also a wire 
 skimmer. To judge when your fat is sufficiently hot, dip your fingers 
 in a little cold water and shake your fingers over the lard, and if hot, 
 it will instantly make a noisy utterance peculiar to itself; or throw a 
 piece of bread into the hot fat, and if it will fry the bread of a nice 
 brown colour, it will be ready to fry your whitebait; which you should 
 commence to do about ten minutes before the dinner hour. When 
 proceed as follows:—Take up in your right hand loosely about three 
 parts of a handful of bait from the water in which it has been placed, 
 and, so to speak, place or sprinkle the same into the flour on one of 
 your sheets of paper 3 then place your cane sieve over the plain sheet of 
 paper, and into this empty the flour into which you have sprinkled 
 the whitebait and then taking the sieve in both your hands, shake out 
 the flour, so that the bait alone remains in the sieve, which shake 
 gently into the hot fat, and with your wire skimmer (which is kept and 
 made expressly for this purpose) move the bait to and fro while it is 
 frying, and lifting a little of the bait out of the fat place your fingers 
 upon it3 and if it feels crisp , and on this point be very particular, for the 
 bait will go soft if not fried thoroughly crisp. And when crisp hold one 
 of your frying baskets in your left hand, and skim out the bait into this 
 and place them before the kitchen-range fire as you fry them. And 
 here let me draw your particular attention to the fact that izuo small 
 handfuls of bait is as much as you can fry at a time; for if you attempt 
 to fry more the lard is very likely to rise in the stewpan, so much so 
 that it will flow over into the fire, so be careful on this point3 also, to 
 prevent it doing so, see that the stewpan is large enough to contain three 
 times as much lard as you have in it. As you proceed to fry it dip 
 
WHITEBAIT. 
 
 1 65 
 
 both hands into the pan containing the bait, and take a small handful 
 loosely in each hand and sprinkle them into the flour; then sift them as 
 previously instructed, and shake them into the hot lard, moving your 
 wire frying skimmer to and fro ; and when the bait feel quite crisp skim 
 them into the wire frying basket, which should be kept in the left hand; 
 and when fried the bait should be spread on a wire sieve and kept before 
 the range fire till all is fried. And let me add, you must be sure the fat 
 is quite hot before you fry off each portion of bait, and that a little salt is 
 sprinkled over the same when in the frying basket, tossing up the bait 
 in the basket as you sprinkle it, so that all the bait receive a portion of 
 salt. And be particular that you spread out the bait on the two wire 
 sieves to keep hot and crisp, and do not dish till the last thing, but have 
 your dishes hot and an ornamental paper or a napkin on each, on which 
 pile the bait before sending it to table. Some times devilled bait is also 
 sent to table after the plain bait, which is done by mixing a little cayenne 
 with the salt before sprinkling the bait, but generally the plain salted 
 bait is sufficient. 
 
 Brown bread-and-butter should be served with the whitebait, which 
 should be cut very thin, also some lemons cut in four quarters length¬ 
 ways. And let me add that April, May, June, and July are the best 
 months for whitebait; and when you order the same, ask that it be sent 
 in of small size. 
 
 And now will follow a list of Cold Entries statable for Public Break¬ 
 fasts , Luncheons , or Ball Suppers , and also for Dinners. 
 
 Canap6es of Fillets of Soles a la Windsor. 
 
 Croustades of Mutton h la Royal. 
 
 Croustades of Fowl h l’Essence. 
 
 Croustades of Duckling aux Olives. 
 
 Quails farced a la Francaise. 
 
 Balotines of Quails a la Macedoine. 
 
 Galantines of Poulet a 1 ’Aspic. 
 
 Cremes of Trout en Matelotte. 
 
 Scollops of Trout a 1 ’Aspic. 
 
 The canapee and croustade cases should be made of short paste. 
 
166 CROUSTADES OF MUTTON A LA ROYAL. 
 
 adding six ounces of butter to one pound of flour, and two yolks of eggs 
 and about three parts of half a pint of water; rub the butter into the 
 flour, then add your two yolks of eggs and mix with the water into a 
 rather firm paste, and line the second-size French tartlet tins with this, 
 with the paste not thicker than a shilling. For the canapee cases and for 
 the croustade cases line some plain dariole moulds with the same 
 thickness of paste, and fill them with rice which has been fried in fat, 
 and when cold fill the tartlet cases with this, also the dariole moulds, and 
 bake them of a light colour, and when baked, empty them and fill them 
 according to instructions. 
 
 Note.— For French tartlet tins , see engravings end of February , 
 page 95, also for the dariole moulds. 
 
 Canapees of Fillets of Soles. —Trim the fillets of sole and 
 place them on a saute-pan with a little clarified butter melted in the 
 same. Then, with your butter brush rub a little butter over the fillets, 
 and season them with a little pepper and salt. 
 
 Next, place them in a sharp oven for about five minutes. Your eye 
 should tell you when they are done, by the creamy substance they show, 
 and if you try them with a wooden skewer, it will readily pass through 
 them with the slightest pressure. 
 
 Then place them to become cold, and when quite so, cut them into 
 dice of about one-quarter of an inch square. Then chop a little parsley, 
 freed from the stalks, which, when chopped, should be scalded. 
 Sprinkle this among the minced fillets, and then mix them with six table¬ 
 spoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, with three tablespoonfuls of whipped 
 aspic jelly. Fill your croustade cases with this mixture, and mask with- 
 chopped aspic, as described in the May number, and dished in the same- 
 manner as the Canapees of Lobster. 
 
 Croustades of Mutton a la Royal. —Cut off the part containing 
 the fillet from a loin of mutton. Then remove the upper and under 
 fillets from the same, from which remove the fat and skin (as thinly as 
 possible), and cut the lean meat of the upper and under fillets into dice- 
 shape pieces of a quarter of an inch square. 
 
 Place these in a two-quart stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of clari¬ 
 fied butter. Season them with pepper and salt, and, if possible, chop 
 
CROUSTADES OF FOWL A L’ESSENCE. 
 
 167 
 
 up a handful of freshly gathered champignons, with half a handful of 
 picked parsley (care to be taken that each should be well washed, and 
 dried in a cloth before chopping). When chopped very fine, add these 
 to the mutton cut up and in the stewpan. Let all fry together gently 
 for five minutes. Then strain the butter from the same, and add half 
 a pint of Espagnol sauce. Add a very little cayenne pepper and salt, 
 and let very gently simmer till the mutton is quite done, the sign of 
 which is when it is quite tender. When cold, fill as many croustade 
 cases as you need with the mixture. 
 
 There should also be made some very neat tops for the croustades 
 out of some trimmings of puff-paste, which should be egged over and a 
 suitably-sized leaf in puff-paste placed on the top (but this should not 
 be egged over). 
 
 Let me add , that the tops should be made to neatly fit the tops of the 
 croustade cases, and made to contain as little paste as possible . 
 
 They should be dished the same as patties. 
 
 Croustades of Fowl a l’Essence. —Place one fowl trussed to 
 boil in a stewpan. Add to this one gill of water and one gill of best 
 white stock. Let gently simmer three-quarters of an hour. Then place 
 the fowl to become cold (on the ice if you have any). 
 
 Next, with a little roux thicken the essence or broth in which the 
 fowl was boiled. Add to the same a little cream and two or three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of bechemelle sauce. Let boil gently together. 
 
 Then pass through a pointed tin strainer into a white basin. After 
 this remove the skin from the fowl, and the whole of the flesh should be 
 cut as far as you can into dice of about the eighth of an inch square, 
 and mince the remnants. 
 
 Add to the fowl sufficient cut ham or tongue of about one-third 
 in quantity to what you have of fowl. Then chop up a small handful of 
 parsley picked from the stalks. Chop it fine, and place it in a pointed 
 tin strainer, and hold the point which contains the parsley in boiling 
 water for a minute. Then add it to the fowl and tongue or ham. Add 
 also a very little cayenne pepper and a little salt. Mix lightly together, 
 and fill your croustade cases, and place tops on them the same as for 
 the Croustades a la Royal, and dish the same. 
 
i68 
 
 QUAILS FARCED A. LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 Croustades of Duckling aux Olives. —Pick all the stubble 
 feathers from a fine duckling, and singe from the same any hairs to be 
 found thereon. Then truss it as for roasting. Next, place it in a suitable- 
 size stewpan, with half a pint of water and half a pint of white stock. 
 Cover it closely down, and let it gently boil for three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Then place it to become cold on the ice. If the gravy in which it 
 has been braizing is reduced to about one-third, free it from grease or 
 fat. Add to it about half a pint of finished Espagnol sauce. Let it 
 reduce to its proper consistency. Then cut off all the meat from the 
 bones of the duckling, and afterwards cut it into dice of a quarter of an 
 inch square, and as free from fat as possible. 
 
 Add this to the sauce, with about the half of a bottle of olives, which 
 should be peeled, and afterwards cut into dice. Chop up, also, a dozen 
 preserved mushrooms finely, and add these to the other items. Mix 
 these ingredients together, adding a little cayenne pepper and salt. 
 With these fill your croustade cases, and finish and dish the same as in 
 the foregoing. 
 
 Quails farced a la Fran^aise. —Take nine boned quails. Cut 
 off the feet. Then rub through a wire sieve one and a half pound of 
 the best sausage meat, to which add four truffles, chopped up, but not 
 too fine. Then open a can of preserved fat livers, and cut from the 
 same nine pieces of the size of a walnut. Mix the sausage meat and 
 the truffles together, with two yolks of eggs, and divide it into nine 
 equal parts. Place one part in each, with a piece of fat liver in the 
 centre. 
 
 As you place the farce in them they should be neatly made into 
 shape, and placed in a rather deep saute pan, with about half a pint of 
 good stock, a round of buttered paper placed over them, and put in a 
 rather sharp oven for about half an hour. When done, remove the 
 quails on to a dish to become cold. Then the gravy in which they were 
 cooked should be placed in a quart stewpan with the bones of each 
 body ; to this add a wineglass of sherry and half a pint of good veloute 
 or Espagnol sauce, and about as much good glaze as two good-sized 
 walnuts. 
 
 Let this sauce slowly boil till reduced to half its quantity. Then 
 
BALLOTINES OF QUAILS A LA MACEDOINE. 169 
 
 strain it through a pointed tin sieve, and then pass through a taminy 
 cloth. 
 
 Note .—This sauce is to mask the quails with, and care should be 
 taken that it is strong enough for this purpose ; and, if made in very 
 hot weather, it is wise, before straining off the sauce, to add about one 
 ounce of soaked gelatine. 
 
 Take care of the feet of the quails, which should be scalded, and 
 placed in a jar beside the quails. When about dishing up, cut each 
 quail in two; and, having melted the sauce made from them, place or 
 dip each half of a quail in the sauce, fixing it upon'a fork, the outside to 
 be neatly dipped in the sauce, which should be sufficiently cold to mask 
 them. One of the legs should be fixed in each half before masking. 
 
 Place them on a china dish as you do them. When cold, mask them 
 with some liquid aspic by dipping a brush in it, then coating. Each 
 half should be trimmed before dishing up on a border of potato paste, 
 with the leg of each half uppermost, and then a financiere ragout should 
 be tossed in a little aspic in a liquid state, and mounted in a pile in the 
 centre of each dish of quails. 
 
 Then some cold aspic jelly, which has been some time upon the ice, 
 should be chopped rather fine, and placed round the quails sufficient to 
 mask the potatoes on which they are dished, and on this chopped aspic 
 a few croutons of aspic should be placed, with a few sprays of tarragon 
 and chervil, and they are ready. 
 
 Ballotines of Quails a la Macedoine. —Cut nine boned quails 
 in two lengthways, cut off the feet, and with your cutlet chopper slightly 
 beat out the fillet, so as to make each half of quail as large as possible. 
 Then prepare the sausage-meat exactly as above; but you will require 
 eighteen pieces of fat liver instead of nine pieces. Divide your prepared 
 sausage-meat into equal parts, making eighteen pieces. Season with a 
 little pepper and salt each half of quail. 
 
 Then make into a round ball each piece of sausage-meat, with a piece 
 of fat liver in the centre of each. Then farce each half quail with 
 these, and then form them in balls, and tie them in some thin cloth such 
 as calico. They should be tied up tightly and braized in some stock for 
 half an hour or a little more. 
 
170 
 
 GALANTINES OF POULET A L’ASPIC. 
 
 Then take them out of the stock, and, when cold enough to handle, 
 tighten them by tying another piece of string round each, and place 
 them to get cold. The bones should be well stewed in the essence, 
 and, if pounded in the mortar for a few minutes before placing them in 
 the gravy, the better will be the sauce. About half a pint of veloute or 
 Espagnol sauce and a glass of sherry should be added, also a piece of 
 glaze twice the size of a walnut. Let this slowly simmer for about one 
 hour, when it should be strained through a tin strainer, and finished to 
 its proper consistency for masking the balotines. 
 
 These should now be masked (but one of the feet placed in each be¬ 
 fore doing so) exactly as described for the Quails a la Frangaise (page 
 168), but served with mushrooms, young peas, or macedoine roots tossed 
 in a little liquid aspic jelly, and placed in the centre of each dish of 
 quails, and garnished at the base with chopped aspic and croutons, and 
 they are ready. 
 
 Galantines of Poulet a l’Aspic. —Take two boned chickens. 
 Cut them open down the back. Then prepare two pounds of the best 
 pork sausage-meat, and cut an ox tongue crossways in two, and take 
 the pointed end, which cut into dice-shape pieces about a quarter of an 
 inch square. Do the same with a dozen truffles. Then blanch two 
 ounces of pistachio nuts by throwing them into boiling water, and 
 letting them boil for three minutes. 
 
 Then strain them off on a hair sieve, throwing some cold water over 
 them. Next, rub them in a cloth till the skins come off, when they 
 should be picked out and added to the cut tongue and truffles; cut 
 also half a pound of fat bacon into dice shapes the same size as the 
 tongue, and place in a pint of cold water one ounce of shred gelatine. 
 
 Now spread on a china dish the two pounds of sausage-meat and the 
 other items of tongue, bacon, truffles, also the pistachio nuts. Season 
 these with some white pepper, salt, and a little cayenne pepper, and a 
 small teaspoonful of herbaceous mixture. 
 
 Finally, add to these four yolks of eggs, and mix all these thoroughly 
 well together, adding also the gelatine. When mixed, spread out the 
 two chickens so as to place the fillets lengthways before you, when 
 divide the prepared sausage-meat equally between the two chickens. 
 
GALANTINES OF POULET A L’ASPIC. 
 
 171 
 
 Spread it out evenly so as to have the farce quite equal, then roll the 
 chickens tightly together and tie them up in a cloth tightly at each end. 
 
 When let them braize in a stewpan with a little second stock and 
 water sufficient to cover them, let them slowly boil for one hour, then 
 remove them on to a china dish, and when partly cold place them on a 
 cutting board. Untie the cloth gently, and have each cloth washed ; 
 then again arrange them on each cloth, again taking care to notice that you 
 keep the white side , which is the fillet side, upward. Then tie them up 
 at the ends of the cloths tightly again. 
 
 After this place them on a dish; and, if you wish them oval, you 
 must place another dish on the top with a 14 lb. weight on the top 
 dish. If you wash them to be round, simply leave them on the dish 
 without any pressure till the next day. When dishing them up, they 
 are cut in slices about as thick as a half-crown piece. 
 
 Then squeeze between your hands some small salad into a ball, and 
 place this in the centre of the dish on which you are going to serve 
 them. Then place a slice slightly leaning on the salad; and then 
 another overlapping the first about half-way, and so on all round the 
 salad as uniformly as possible. 
 
 Next, place a little chopped aspic jelly round the base, and a small 
 triangular-cut crouton of aspic jelly on this. Then roll a little small 
 salad into a small ball and place on the top, with a sprinkle of fine 
 chopped aspic on this, and in this way, round or oval, should be dished. 
 
 Then there is another and more recherche way, as follows :—When 
 you have cut up your galantine, place it on a level china dish, or on a 
 very clean level baking sheet. Then when you have laid flat your cut 
 galantine, take some liquid aspic jelly, and with a camel’s hair brush 
 give each slice of galantine a slight coat, as if you were painting the 
 same. When this is cold, give them another; and when quite cold, 
 cut up some white lettuce very fine indeed, and mix this with some small 
 salad, and press these into a small ball and place in centre of dish. 
 Then dish your slices of galantine (which should be oval) round this after 
 the same manner as the last dish. 
 
 Then fill the hole in top with young peas tossed in a little aspic, and 
 garnish the base with some macedoine roots, also tossed in a little aspic, 
 
172 
 
 CREMES OF TROUT EN MATELOTTE. 
 
 and when cold placed in piles (small piles) round the same. A little 
 chopped aspic between, also a few croutons, or a garniture of cold ragout 
 financiere can be used at the top and a little at the base, but either way 
 they look extremely well. 
 
 Cremes of Trout en Matelotte.—Split two trout of medium 
 size, and about one and a half pound each. Remove all the bones and 
 any dark flesh or spots from its bright colour. Then cut them up in 
 pieces of about half an inch square. Pound these well in a mortar till 
 very fine indeed. 
 
 Then rub what you have pounded through a wire quenelle sieve. 
 When all has been rubbed through, scrape your sieve and remove what 
 remains from under it, which should be placed back in a clean mortar 
 and mixed with half a pint of good bechemelle sauce, two teaspoonfuls 
 of anchovy paste, and a little cayenne pepper and salt. These should 
 be all well mixed in ; and then add about half a pint of double cream, 
 a little at a time. 
 
 Lastly, three parts of a gill of live spawn which has been rubbed through 
 a hair sieve on a plate underneath. A few drops of water should be 
 added as you rub the spawn through. When all has been passed, mix 
 it in with the mixture in the mortar. Then butter a plain dariole mould 
 and place about one spoonful of the prepared trout in it, and let this 
 steam in a small stewpan with a little water in it for a few minutes to 
 test its consistency when cooked. 
 
 This should be light, but firm as a baked custard, and a bright colour 
 by means of the spawn. If you find it too firm , add sufficient cream to 
 make it less so. By adding more or less cream, you can test and make 
 the degree of consistency you desire. Then prepare eighteen or twenty 
 plain dariole moulds of a nice medium size. Run a little salad oil in each 
 mould so as to mask each one, turning them upside down as you do 
 them on to a level saute-plate, when turn your moulds up again as you 
 fill them; and they should be filled very nearly full and afterwards 
 arranged on a folded sheet of paper in a level-bottomed stewpan or 
 braizing pan. 
 
 Add then about a pint of water, and let them slowly simmer for 
 about ten minutes; and when you find they are firm to the touch they 
 
SCOLLOPS OF TROUT EN MAYONNAISE A L’ASPIC. 173 
 
 will do for the present, and should be placed to become cold. In the 
 meantime, make half a pint of bechemelle sauce hot, add to it about 
 half a gill of live spawn and a little soaked gelatine. It should be made 
 hot enough to bring out the colour from the spawn, and then get it cold 
 enough for masking. 
 
 Now, placing four or six on a china dish, with a spoon, pour a little 
 sauce over them, but sufficient to entirely mask them (they should be 
 very lightly masked); and as you do them (six at a time), remove them 
 with a palette-knife on to a clean dish; and when all are done, they 
 should be slightly ornamented with truffles, such as rings, or star of half¬ 
 moons, or leaves, or a few chopped very fine and sprinkled on the top. 
 Then they should be coated with a little liquid aspic (nearly cold), and 
 should be dished on silver plates, about eight on a plate, and in the centre 
 a ragout en matelotte as follows:—Some picked prawns, and the prime or 
 white part of some stewed oysters, some sliced truffles; these should be 
 tossed in a little melted aspic, and the tails of two small lobsters, cut into 
 dice of about one quarter of an inch square, added to the other items. 
 
 Now, when by tossing them in the aspic they have become coated by 
 the same, build these in a nice pile in the centre of each, and from a 
 peeled cucumber a few slices of the same should be placed on the 
 right and left of your creams, at the base, and some chopped aspic 
 between. A few croutons of aspic should also be placed round the same, 
 and they are ready. 
 
 Scollops of Trout or Salmon en Mayonnaise a l’Aspic.— 
 
 Take a trout of about two pounds and a half weight. Cut off the head, 
 and split the same from head to tail, keeping your knife close on the 
 central bone as you do so. When split, cut off the fins near the gills, 
 and remove the central bone by running your knife along closely beneath 
 the same. 
 
 Now, remember you require your scollops to be cut small (not more 
 than one inch and a half long, and one inch wide at the broad end ); 
 and if you bring the thick part of each half trout near to your right 
 hand, and cut each scollop on the slant, it will give you, or enable you 
 to cut, each scollop with one part about one inch wide, and the other 
 tapering to a point (that is, if you place the half of the trout lengthwise 
 
174 SCOLLOPS OF TROUT EN MAYONNAISE A L’ASPIC. 
 
 before you, and the thick end farthest from you). Take care that your 
 knife is a very sharp and thin one; and do not cut too close to the 
 skin, so as to keep your scollops all of the beautiful colour belonging to 
 the trout, and that all the scollops are cut of the same size ; and you will 
 find, if you cut them as herein directed, they will require very little 
 trimming, and when finished, they should resemble the inside of a small 
 well-shaped pear when cut in two. 
 
 When all are trimmed, place a little salad oil over the surface of a 
 saute-pan, and arrange the scollops neatly upon it. Then season them 
 with a little mixed pepper and salt; and with your butter-brush dipped 
 in salad oil, slightly mask the surface of the scollops. Then place a round 
 of buttered paper over them, and put them in a sharp oven for about 
 four minutes. Take care to attend to them while in the oven. 
 
 When they show creamy, and are firm to the touch, remove them, as 
 you can be sure they are done. Then place a clean round of paper in 
 another saute-pan, and with a palette knife very carefully remove the 
 scollops on to it, and place in the larder to become quite cold, or upon 
 a little ice, if in a hurry. They should be dished on a border of aspic 
 jelly, garnished with eggs boiled hard, and cut in neat and even 
 quarters (but do not let the eggs boil more than ten minutes. If you do, 
 they will have a disagreeable-looking black rim all round the yolk). 
 
 Directly they have boiled the specified time, place them in cold 
 water, and when cold you can readily remove the shells. When you 
 prepare the borders, a medium-sized cucumber, of uniform size, should 
 be thinly peeled and cut in thin slices, and the white part of a lettuce 
 should be cut in very fine shreds, and a little cooked lobster spawn 
 should be rubbed through a wire sieve. 
 
 Then take two border moulds with fluted or half-fluted tops; place 
 these in an upright position, with a little ice round them; place about 
 two spoonfuls of liquid aspic jelly in them, and then arrange four piles 
 of shred lettuce opposite each other, and between these the quarter of 
 an egg cut lengthways, and sprinkle some red loose lobster spawn 
 between these, so as to fall on the jelly; and when these have set, a little 
 more liquid aspic, so as to fill each mould one-third; then commence 
 another row the same as the last, adding a few preserved mushrooms 
 
STEWED PEARS AND RICE. 
 
 175 
 
 (champignons) and two chopped truffles. These, with the eggs, lettuce, 
 truffles, lobster spawn, and cucumber, should be nicely arranged, so as 
 to show boldly when filled with aspic jelly, set, and turned out upon 
 the dishes of silver. These borders, when turned out, should not be 
 more than two inches high. 
 
 Next, when you are about to dish the scollops of trout, mix three 
 tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar with two tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and 
 just moisten the scollops with this. Then dish them on the top of the 
 border (commencing on your right hand, with the point of each scollop 
 towards you). 
 
 Continue thus right round to your left hand, placing a slice of 
 cucumber between each scollop. They should be dished neatly and 
 evenly, and, when dished, a little finely-shred lettuce should half fil 1 
 the space in the centre. 
 
 Then fill up the centre with Mayonnaise sauce, in which has been 
 mixed about half a gill of whipped aspic, with just a pinch of lobster 
 spawn in the centre of each. The base of each should be garnished 
 with a little chopped aspic, and on this a few triangle croutons of aspic, 
 with a few neat sprays of tarragon, should be placed, and they are ready 
 for table. 
 
 This dish, when the scollops are cut and dished on a larger scale in a 
 full-sized dish, would make an excellent dish of fish for the hot months 
 of June, July, and August. 
 
 Salmon can be served in the same style exactly. 
 
 SECOND COURSE—SWEET DISHES. 
 
 (Continued from March , page 142.) 
 
 Stewed Pears and Rice. —Peel twelve baking pears evenly, and 
 with a jardiniere scoop, after the pears are cut in two, cut out the cores 
 from each half pear, and arrange them in a stewpan, one half leaning 
 on another, so as to form a circle in one or two rows. Then place the 
 peelings in the centre, also the cores. Add a pound of pounded lump 
 sugar, six cloves, a few allspice, a little cinnamon, and nearly sufficient 
 
176 CROUTES OF SAVARIN WITH COMPOTE OF PINE APPLE. 
 
 water to cover them, and about one tablespoonful of prepared cochineal. 
 Add also the gratings of two lemons, and place them on the hot-plate 
 to very slowly boil till the pears are tender. About half an hour should 
 cook them, and be careful that they are not too much done. If a small 
 wooden skewer will pass through them easily, you may be sure they are 
 done. 
 
 Let them remain in the liquor in which they were cooked till quite 
 cold. Then remove them into a clean kitchen-pan, and strain the 
 syrup through a sieve over them. Dish them in borders of rice with 
 stewed rice in the centre, the same as for the stewed pippins, and pour 
 some of the liquor round them when sending to table. And it may be, 
 the liquor may require to boil down to one-half its original quantity, 
 as it should be a thick syrup when poured round the pears. 
 
 Croutes of Savarin with Compote of Pine Apple a la 
 Creme. —Prepare half a pound or a pound mixture of baba paste, the 
 same as for the Baba it la Polonaise (see first number of this work), but 
 use two more eggs and a little more German yeast, and one table¬ 
 spoonful of pounded sugar and the grating of one fragrant lemon. Then 
 chop up rather fine two ounces of almonds (which have been boiled and 
 the skins removed). Then butter two or four plain or ornamental 
 border moulds, and be very particular in preparing the butter exactly as 
 instructed for the baba (page 26); and, when each border mould is 
 buttered with due care, sprinkle the bottom wfith a few chopped almonds. 
 
 Now r , let me here remark, if you only require two croutes of savarin, 
 a half-pound mixture will be sufficient, but if for four, which you might 
 need for a supper, use a pound mixture; and remember, for the 
 savarins you will not require fruit as for the baba, but only to make it 
 after the same manner before the fruit has been added. 
 
 When the moulds have been buttered, you will have to place 
 round the same a piece of buttered paper, doubled, to rise about tw T o 
 inches above The border moulds. You will also require a band of 
 buttered paper for the inner border, putting a little paste round the 
 bottom part to cause the same to adhere, so that the savarin mixture 
 will not run over the mould when baking. But carefully fill the tw r o 
 border moulds with the savarin mixture before placing the buttered 
 
CROUTES OF SAVARIN WITH COMPOTE OF PINE APPLE. 177 
 
 bands of paper round the same. The mixture should be filled in, so as 
 to leave no holes in the same when baked, and which would take from 
 their appearance when turned out of the border moulds. When the 
 bands of paper are fixed, place the moulds containing the croutes 
 on a baking sheet, with a sheet of paper folded four times under 
 each mould, and let them stand in the warm part of the kitchen till 
 they have risen to double their size. Then bake them in an oven of 
 steady heat. You can readily tell when they are done by placing a 
 sharp-pointed wooden skewer through the centre of each; and if, 
 on withdrawing the same, the skewer shows clean, or with none 
 of the mixture adhering to it, you can rely the croutes are 
 done. 
 
 Then remove the buttered bands carefully from the sides of the 
 border moulds; and then, holding one at a time in a cloth, tap the 
 mould on the dresser, turning it round as you do so, still tapping it, and 
 when it is loose, turn it out of the mould on to a hair sieve. Do the 
 same with the other. 
 
 Then prepare a pastry custard as follows :—Place three parts of a 
 pint of milk on the fire in a quart stewpan, with two ounces of butter 
 and one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, one ditto of vanilla sugar, and 
 the gratings of one lemon (that is, the yellow part of the rind grated 
 lightly on to a plate or a piece of paper). Add this also to the milk. 
 Then mix three tablespoonfuls of superfine flour very fine with one gill 
 of cold milk, taking the precaution of straining it through a pointed 
 tin strainer. When the milk on the fire boils, stir the mixed flour 
 into the milk; stir it over the fire for a few seconds to dress the flour. 
 Afterwards part six yolks of eggs from the whites, and mix them two 
 at a time into the thickened milk, and stir over the fire or hot-plate 
 for about two minutes, which will nicely thicken the custard. It 
 should be then squeezed through a tammy cloth into a basin, and 
 covered with a piece of paper, which should be screwed round the 
 edge of the basin. 
 
 Then whip one pint of very fresh cream till it is as firm as meranque, 
 
 and place this on a hair sieve. Then prepare one pint of syrup as 
 
 follows. Place one pound of sugar on the fire in a stewpan, with three 
 
 N 
 
178 CROUTES OF COMPOTE OF APRICOTS A LA CREME. 
 
 parts of a pint of water, and bring it to boil; skim it well, and place it 
 aside till you need it. After this, boil two ounces of chopped pistachio 
 nuts in one pint of water for two minutes. Try them by taking up a 
 few on a spoon, and if the skins, when you rub them between the thumb 
 and finger, will readily come off, strain them in a pointed tin strainer, 
 and run a little cold water over them. Then rub them in a clean, dry 
 cloth, by which means the skins will readily come off the green nuts; 
 pick the skins from the nuts, and chop the nuts up quite fine, and place 
 them on a plate in the screen to become partly dry. 
 
 Finally, open a pint tin of preserved pine apple slices, reserve the 
 syrup that is with them, and place the slices of pine apple on a plate, 
 then proceed to dish up and finish the croutes in the following manner: 
 —Cut off the rough part of the bottom of each croute. Then take half 
 the prepared syrup, add to this that which came from the pine apple 
 slices, and mix them together with a wineglass of brandy. Then, with 
 a tablespoon, having turned up the two croutes bottom upwards, 
 divide the syrup between the two. Pour a spoonful or two at a time, till 
 the croutes, which should be very porous, have absorbed the prepared 
 syrup. Let them stand for ten minutes, so as to receive the syrup 
 throughout the croute, then again turn them in their proper position. 
 Pour a little syrup over the outside, and sprinkle the chopped pistachio 
 nuts over the top. After this place them on the dishes upon which they 
 will be sent to table. Then build up your slices of pine apple in the 
 centre of the croutes, cutting the slices of pine in two if too large, and 
 between each layer of pine apple spread a layer of your pastry custard 
 (or frangipan, as the French call it), and finally cover the pile of pine 
 apple with your whipped cream, masking it neatly over, and sprinkling 
 a little of your chopped pistachio nuts over each. Then pour a little 
 slightly pink syrup round them, and send to table. These croutes 
 form a series of excellent dishes, and, when properly served, will be 
 readily partaken of. 
 
 Croutes of Compote of Apricots a la Creme. —These are 
 prepared the same in all particulars as the croutes of pine apple, using 
 canisters of preserved apricots instead of pine apple. Let me observe 
 that Ponson’s preserved apricots are most excellent for this purpose, 
 
CROUTES OF COMPOTE OF ORANGES A LA CREME. 179 
 
 being preserved in Portugal. They are good in colour and flavour, and 
 not too large in size. 
 
 Croutes with Compote of Gooseberries a la Creme.— 
 
 The gooseberries for this purpose should be preserved in bottles without 
 any water, and with nothing but a little powdered sugar put with them ; 
 tightly corked, and tied down, and allowed to boil in water up to the 
 lower part of the neck. They should be then removed from the fire, 
 and allowed to become quite cold before placing them aside for winter 
 use. Or, you can generally purchase them at a first-class confectioner’s 
 in the way I state. Finish them the same as the above, taking care 
 to add a little more sugar to the gooseberries, and, if brandy is 
 objected to, use a wineglass of maraschino to make the syrup with for 
 the croutes. 
 
 Croutes of Peaches a l’Americaine. —Finish these in all parti¬ 
 culars the same as the croutes of pine apple, using canisters of American 
 preserved peaches , which, when opened, should they not prove 
 sufficiently cooked, let them stew in a little weak syrup till quite tender, 
 and cut each half of peach in two before building up the same in the 
 centre of the croutes. 
 
 Croutes of Compote of Oranges a la Creme. —Prepare ten 
 
 fine oranges in the following manner:—Rub the rind of two lightly on 
 
 a piece of lump sugar to obtain the zest, which scrape off on to a plate. 
 
 Then with a very sharp knife cut off the top and bottom of each orange, 
 
 removing a little of the flesh with what you cut off; then hold the 
 
 orange firmly with the fingers of the left hand, and cut off a piece of 
 
 the peel from the top to the bottom ; the same to contain the peel, the 
 
 white pith, and a very slight portion of the flesh of the orange. Then 
 
 turn the orange round, and cut a similar piece from the opposite side. 
 
 and then proceed in the same way to remove the remaining parts of 
 
 rind and any little portion of pith that may remain, so that the orange 
 
 will show to have had the pith and rind uniformly removed. After 
 
 this cut it in four equal quarters, and with your knife cut away the 
 
 portion of pith pertaining to each quarter of orange, and also any pips 
 
 it may contain. Finish the others in the same manner. Then rub the 
 
 zest with about two good spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and place the 
 
 N 2 
 
180 DUCHESSE CAKE WITH PURflE OF APPLES. 
 
 quarters of oranges in a kitchen basin, and sprinkle the sugar over them, 
 also a glass of maraschino. When convenient, build these in the centre 
 of the croutes, which will give twenty quarters to each croute. Build them 
 up with pastry custard, and then mask them (the same as for the 
 croutes of pine apple) with one pint of whipped cream, flavoured with a 
 little Vanille sugar, and sprinkled over with chopped pistachio nuts and 
 serve. 
 
 Note .—A wineglass of Curasao or maraschino should be added to 
 the syrup with which you soak the croutes. 
 
 Duchesse Cake with Puree of Apples a la Fran^aise.— 
 Prepare a pound mixture of Genoese cake as follows :—One pound of 
 powdered lump sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one pound two 
 ounces of superfine flour, and the gratings of two lemons. Place the 
 butter in a stewpan, and gently warm the same. Then with a w T ire 
 whisk beat the butter till it becomes nearly as white as cream. Then 
 add the sugar and grated lemon, and warm the stewpan slightly again. 
 Next beat the sugar and butter well together for two or three minutes, 
 still keeping the stewpan a little warm on the side of the hot-plate. 
 Then carefully crack the eight eggs, smelling each one separately, and 
 when all are removed from the shells into a kitchen-pan, add two at a 
 time to the butter and sugar, beating the batter well as you add them 
 with the wire whisk (and still keeping the stewpan slightly warm). 
 When the"eight eggs are beaten into the batter, then remove the whisk, 
 and with a wooden spoon stir into the batter the flour, stirring it in as 
 lightly as possible. Then remove it from the hot-plate, and well butter 
 two plain border moulds (see illustrations, page 47 of this work). The 
 border moulds should have level tops— I mean, without inde?itcitions. 
 
 Then fill the border moulds with the Genoese cake nearly full; then 
 place bands of buttered paper round the same round the outside of the 
 inside border, as well as round the outside border. Then place them 
 on a baking sheet, with two sheets of kitchen paper folded twice under 
 the border moulds; and bake the cakes in an oven of gentle heat. 
 Take care”to bake them of a light brown colour. About half an hour 
 should bake them, or it might be a few minutes more. You can tell 
 for certain when they are done by piercing them in the centre with a 
 
DUCHESSE CAKE WITH PURSE OF APPLES. 1 8 1 
 
 thin-pointed wooden skewer, and when you withdraw the same, if no 
 moist or rather underdone cake adheres to it, you can rely that the cake 
 is done. 
 
 They should then be taken from the oven and the bands of paper 
 removed, and with your rubber cloth hold each border mould between 
 the hands, and, tapping the edge on the kitchen dresser, and turning the 
 mould as you do so, till you find the cake become loose; then turn it 
 out on to a hair sieve, and do the same with the other. 
 
 Then place them aside for the present. And now make a puree of 
 apples as follows :—Peel a dozen apples used for cooking purposes, and 
 those the most white are the best. Peel them and then quarter and 
 remove the cores, and throw them as you do them into about half a pint 
 of water, with half a pound of sugar (pounded lump sugar), to which 
 add the juice of two lemons, after you have removed the zest by grating 
 them on to a plate. When all are done (and take care that the apples 
 are of good size, or you will require eighteen apples), place them in a 
 two-quart stewpan with about half the sweetened water, to which add 
 six cloves and the gratings of two lemons. Let them stew very slowly 
 till they are quite a pulp, then rub them through a very clean wire sieve 
 on to a china dish; and when you have rubbed all the pulp through 
 the sieve, place the same in a kitchen basin. 
 
 Then place one and a half ounce of pied de veau gelatine in soak for 
 ten minutes in about a pint of cold water, and then place the 
 remainder of the sweetened water containing the lemon juice and 
 gratings on the fire to boil, and when it does so, strain off the gelatine 
 and place it in this boiling syrup. Stir it with a wooden spoon on the 
 hot-plate in a pint stewpan till the contents are boiling. Then well 
 mix the same with the puree of apples, with one pound of powdered 
 lump sugar, and place it on some ice till it becomes cold and set. 
 
 Now, prepare some white sugar in grains about the size of coarse 
 bread-crumbs, which are prepared by breaking up a pound of loaf sugar 
 with a rolling pin to about the size you require. Then sift the fine 
 sugar from the coarse, and from the coarse take what you require, 
 breaking up that which is too large, and sifting it again till you have as 
 much as you require, using that which is too small for other purposes. 
 
182 
 
 DUCHESSE CAKE WITH PUR&E OF APRICOTS. 
 
 You will also require some pastry custard, or frangipan, for which see 
 a few pages back (in the croutes of pine apple). Then the next thing 
 to do is to rub a pot of apricot jam through a hair sieve, and then place 
 it in a small stewpan and make it hot; after which, trim off the bottoms 
 of your borders of Genoese, so that they stand quite level. Then mask 
 the surface of each border with apricot jam, which you can do with a 
 knife or a pastry brush dipped in the jam while hot, and so to speak, 
 mask over the outside of the borders lightly and neatly, using as little 
 jam as possible. When you have masked with jam each border, spread 
 the sugar in grains on a sheet of paper, and lightly roll the outside of 
 each border in this sugar, the jam causing the sugar to adhere; but 
 leave the top of the border quite plain, and place them as you finish them 
 on the centre of each dish upon which they are to be sent to table. 
 Then form a wreath on the top of each border with leaves of angelica 
 and dried cherries; or with a few Jordan almonds, blanched and the 
 skins removed, and split in two, and arranged like a wreath, with a dried 
 cherry between each two halves of an almond. When the borders are 
 thus ornamented, whip a pint of very fresh cream till it is like firm 
 snow, and rub a half-pint pot of red currant jelly through a wire sieve 
 on to a plate. Then proceed to finish the Duchesse cakes in the 
 following manner:—Place some of your puree of apples in the centres 
 of the borders of cake. 
 
 Then place in the centre of the apples same pastry custard, and in 
 the centre of this a spoonful of red currant jelly, then more apple, 
 custard, and jelly, till you have built up a pile in the centre; then mask 
 this with your whipped cream, and sprinkle a little red sugar in grains 
 over the cream, and send to table when needed. 
 
 Duchesse Cake with Puree of Apricots a la Creme.— 
 Open two pint tins of preserved apricots, and place them on the fire to 
 boil with the juice that is with them, adding half a pound of powdered 
 lump sugar, one gill of water, and a wineglassful of brandy, and let 
 boil in a two-quart stewpan, or, to use a better phrase, say gently simmer 
 till they are quite a pulp. While this is proceeding, place one and a half 
 ounce of gelatine to soak in a pint of water for ten minutes, and when 
 you find the apricots are quite soft, rub these through a clean hair sieve, 
 
DUCHESSE CAKE WITH CONSERVE OF STRAWBERRIES. 183 
 
 and replace this pulp in a clean stewpan. Strain off the pied de vean 
 gelatine to free it from water, and add it to the pulp of apricots, and 
 place the stewpan on the hot-plate, and stir it till it boils. Then 
 remove the same, and add the juice of a lemon, and taste it, and make 
 it palatable by adding more sugar, if needed; then place it on some ice 
 till it has set. 
 
 Next, pile it up in the two borders the same as for the puree of 
 apples, building the apricots in a pile with some pastry custard between 
 the different portions of puree of apricots, not forgetting your red-currant 
 jelly, and then masking them with whipped cream as for the puree of 
 apples, sprinkling a little red sugar in grains over the same, and send 
 away when needed. 
 
 Duchesse Cake with Puree of Peaches a la Creme.— 
 
 Prepare two pint cans of preserved peaches, and make a pur6e of the 
 same after the same manner as the apricots, and finish the same with 
 the borders of Genoese cake, but use a little red currant jelly in building 
 up the pile of puree of peaches, and serve when needed. 
 
 Duchesse Cake with Conserve of Strawberries a la 
 Creme. —Prepare the borders the same as for the puree of apples, with 
 one and a half ounce pied de veau gelatine, which place in soak; then 
 take two half-pound pots of strawberry jam, which place in a quart 
 stewpan. Add to the jam one gill of syrup. When quite hot or boiling, 
 add the gelatine to the same, and when it has well mixed with the jam, 
 add a tablespoonful of prepared cochineal to brighten the colour, also 
 the juice of a large lemon to heighten the flavour. Then place it on the 
 ice to set or become firm, and having whipped one pint of cream, as 
 hitherto described, and prepared the pastry custard, build up and finish 
 the same as with the preceding. Let me add that the Genoese borders 
 can be varied by adding chopped pistachio nuts or chopped almonds 
 instead of white sugar, and by a mixture of all three ; and if you add a 
 teaspoonful of prepared cochineal to some white sugar in grains, and mix 
 the colour well with the sugar, stirring it round and round in a small 
 stewpan with the handle of a small wooden spoon, to stain the sugar 
 uniformly with the cochineal, and then placing it upon a plate and 
 letting the same dry in the screen for a short time, it will give you another 
 
184 JELLY MOSAIQUE A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 agreeable tint, and you can add a few black currants, when washed and 
 dried. 
 
 By mixing these—namely, the chopped pistachio nuts, the red sugar, 
 and the white sugar and the currants—will make an excellent garniture 
 to sprinkle over the Genoese borders after you have masked them with 
 apricot jam. And bear in mind, you can use any kind of conserve as 
 well as fruit in these very novel and excellent dishes. 
 
 Jellies of Various Kinds. —Make the calfs foot jelly the same 
 as instructed in page 14 of this work, and which will prove what may 
 be termed a foundation jelly for many other kinds of jelly, suitable for 
 Dinners, Luncheons, Public Breakfasts, and Ball Suppers. 
 
 Jelly Mosaique a la Fran^aise. —Make one pint of blanc¬ 
 mange as follows :—Boil half a pint of milk and half a pint of cream in a 
 stewpan, to which add one ounce of soaked pied de veau gelatine and 
 two ounces of powdered sugar, with a wineglass of Noyeau. You must 
 be very particular that the milk and cream does not exceed one pint 
 (and better to be under than over that quantity). When quite palat¬ 
 able strain it through a wire sieve, but before doing this be quite sure 
 the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved in the milk. Then stir it over a 
 little ice till it is cold, when remove it from the ice, and prepare about 
 one pint of jelly by melting it and adding a little cochineal, sufficient to 
 give it a distinct pink colour. Add one small wineglass of maraschino, 
 then take a medium sized saute-pan, and let it be scoured very clean 
 and well washed out and wiped dry. 
 
 After this place it upon some pounded ice in a large saute-pan, and 
 place the clean pan on the ice, taking care it stands very level; and now 
 with a small ladle or spoon or utensil that will hold a gill, fill the same 
 with blanc-mange, and pour it evenly over the surface of the saute-pan. 
 When this has set firm, pour upon it one gill of pink jelly ; and when 
 this has set, pour another gill over the jelly of blanc-mange. When this 
 also has set, pour another gill of jelly, and finish by having blanc-mange 
 at the bottom and at the top ; or by having three layers of blanc-mange 
 with two layers of pink jelly between the same. 
 
 When what you have placed in the saute-pan is set, place a little more 
 ice under it, so that it may become nice and firm ; then blanch two 
 
JELLY MOSAIQUE A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 i8 5 
 
 ounces of pistachio nuts, and when the skins are removed cut them in 
 two, and then cut each half in very fine shreds, and place them in the 
 screen or mouth of the oven to become partly dry. Then take half 
 a pint of liquid jelly (but not warm) in a pint kitchen basin, and 
 into this blow about three leaves of gold-leaf, and with a plated fork 
 break the leaves of gold into particles, and then add to the same 
 about one-half the shred pistachio nuts. Then place two plain Char¬ 
 lotte moulds with pipes in them in a pan with some ice round 
 them (and be particular that the moulds have been scalded in the 
 inside with boiling water and then wiped dry before using them). 
 When the ice is round the moulds divide the half pint of jelly with the 
 gold-leaf and pistachios between them, placing the same carefully in 
 the moulds with a plated tablespoon. When set, pour another spoonful 
 of jelly into each mould, and while the jelly is setting, take your long 
 box of tin cutters and select one about the size of a shilling, and see 
 if it will fit easily when placed inside the moulds. If so, have a little 
 warm water beside you and a plate, when dip the cutter in water and 
 cut out in round pieces the blanc-mange and jelly and place them 
 round the bottom of the inside of the mould. They should be placed 
 a little distance apart. Then pour a spoonful or two of jelly over 
 to keep them in position, and when this has set, then just cover them 
 with jelly. When this has also set, place another row. But be careful 
 to arrange them so that one piece comes exactly between two pieces which 
 you have already filled in, and so continue till you have built up as 
 many as are required to fill the moulds, and about four rows should be 
 sufficient. 
 
 When both are thus filled, place a little ice round them till you are 
 ready to turn them out on the dishes for table, when dip them, one at a 
 time, in half a pail of warm water. The mould, when you are going to 
 turn out the jelly, should be held firmly in the right hand, and plunged 
 quickly into the warm water, and when withdrawn, dried quickly with a 
 cloth, and then held between both hands and gently shaken; and when 
 you find it loose in the mould, turn it on the centre of the dish ; and turn 
 out the other the same, and send away when needed. 
 
 Note .—The reason why I give two dishes of a kind, both of entrees 
 
186 
 
 JELLIES A LA RUSSE. 
 
 and entremets, is because it is the custom at the present time to do so, 
 particularly so in a Dinner of sixteen or eighteen, and the same in a 
 Public Breakfast or a Supper, for they look best in pairs. 
 
 Jellies a la Russe. —Take a very clean and expressly scoured 
 quart stevvpan, and the same with a wire whisk, and place half a pint of 
 liquid jelly, but cold, in the stewpan, and beat this with the whisk 
 lightly till it becomes as white as snow. When you find it becoming 
 set, pour it in a quart kitchen-pan, and then place the same upon some 
 ice, which should rise round the pan an inch or so. Then again wash 
 out the stewpan and whisk, and dry them with a cloth, and place 
 another half pint of liquid jelly in the stewpan and when cold whip this 
 the same, adding sufficient prepared cochineal to give it a nice pink 
 colour. Whip this the same as the other, and when it looks light, pour 
 this into another kitchen-pan, and place this on the ice also till both 
 become nice and firm, or place them in plain Charlotte moulds. 
 
 Then take tw r o quart jelly moulds with pipes in the centre, and have 
 by your side about three pints of liquid jelly, but it should be cold, and 
 the two jelly moulds should be placed in a pan with a little ice round 
 them and some water in the ice; and now place a couple of plated 
 tablespoonfuls of jelly at the bottom of the mould, and place a few 
 grapes in this jelly, and when partly set, cover the grapes with more 
 jelly, and ornament the other mould the same. Then bring the whipped 
 jelly to your side, and with a teaspoon cut out a piece of whipped white 
 jelly and place it near the outside of the inside of the mould. Then 
 follow by cutting out, about the same size, a piece of whipped pink jelly 
 and place this next the white piece; and so proceed till you have placed, 
 alternately, a piece of white and pink jelly all round the mould. Then 
 place about two tablespoonfuls of liquid jelly over the same, so as to 
 cause the pieces of whipped jelly to become fixed in the mould. While so 
 doing, do the other mould the same, and when you find the whipped jelly 
 has set, then add sufficient clear jelly to cover what might be called your 
 rock-work; and when this has set, proceed again with another row, and 
 so on, till you have finished both moulds, when place them aside till 
 they are needed, wffien turn them out by dipping them in warm water as 
 directed for Mosaique Jelly, and send them to table. 
 
PUNCH JELLY A L’ANGLAISE. 
 
 IS/ 
 
 Calf’s Feet Jelly with Maraschino. —Select two handsome jelly 
 moulds with pipes in them. Place them in a pan with some ice round 
 them. Then measure two quarts of plain calf’s feet jelly (which should 
 be very bright, or say brilliant) into a clean kitchen-pan. Add to this 
 two wineglasses of maraschino, which well mix together with a silver 
 or plated tablespoon. Then fill the moulds which have the ice round 
 them, and place in the larder till needed. Then turn them out as pre¬ 
 viously instructed. 
 
 Note. —All liqueur jellies should, as a general rule, be served quite 
 plain ; but the great point of attainment is, that they should be perfectly 
 brilliant in their appearance —like shapes of crystal, so to speak. And 
 this point of excellence can be readily obtained if my instructions are 
 duly carried out and attended to, as given under the heading, Calf’s 
 Feet Jelly, on page 14 of this work. 
 
 Calf’s Feet Jelly with French Noyeau. —Place two very 
 clean and handsome quart jelly moulds in a pan with ice round them ; 
 and to two quarts of calf’s feet jelly add two glasses of French noyeau, 
 and a lew drops of cochineal, just sufficient to give it a bright rose tint. 
 Then fill the moulds, and place in the larder till needed, when turn 
 them out as before instructed. 
 
 Calf’s Feet Jelly with Curasao.— Add two glasses of curagao 
 to two quarts of calf’s feet jelly, and finish as the above. 
 
 Wine and Brandy Jelly. —Add one wineglass of brandy and 
 two of good sherry with two quarts of calf’s feet jelly; mix well together, 
 and fill two jelly moulds, with pipes in them, and place ice round them; 
 and turn out of the mould according to instructions previously given. 
 
 Punch Jelly a l’Anglaise. —Add a wineglass of brandy and one 
 of rum to two quarts of calf’s feet jelly, and fill two quart moulds 
 with the same, with pipes in them, and place in a kitchen-pan with ice 
 round them; and when needed, turn out on to their dishes as the 
 preceding. 
 
 Now, in reference to jellies being filled into the moulds quite plain , 
 the perfection to which the art of preserving is now brought will enable 
 a cook to produce a macedoine of fruits in mid-winter almost equal to 
 what can be obtained in the summer months, and such macedoine of 
 
188 
 
 JELLIES A LA VICTORIA. 
 
 fruits can be served round the base of all kinds of jellies, whether of 
 wine, or brandy, or liqueur. To exemplify what I say, I will at once 
 give instructions for a 
 
 Macedoine of Fruits for Winter Use, as follows:—Open a 
 half-pint can of Ponson’s preserved Portugal apricots, also a half-pint 
 can of preserved pine apple in slices; drain each upon a sieve, and, when 
 the syrup has passed from the fruit, wash the same in warm water, and 
 dry them on a napkin or rubber. Then cut them (the halves of apricots) 
 in two and the pine apple in neat pieces, and place these in a quart 
 kitchen-pan, and add to these two ounces of preserved dry cherries, and 
 about a dozen grapes, and three oranges prepared the same as for 
 Croutes of Oranges k la Creme; also a couple of ripe pears, cut in 
 quarters and the cores removed, and each quarter cut in two. (For 
 Croutes of Oranges, see pages 179 and 180.) Also open a small can of 
 American peaches, and add their juice or syrup to that which came from 
 the apricots and pine apple, and place them together in a pint stewpan. 
 Also a wineglass of maraschino, two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and 
 half a wineglassful of brandy. Bring this to the boil and skim it well, 
 letting it gently boil for a few minutes until it becomes quite clear, and 
 when every bit of scum has been removed, and the peaches have also 
 been cut in quarters and added to the other fruit, pour the syrup over 
 the same ; and when cold and you have turned out the plain jellies, 
 garnish the base with this macedoine of fruity and I think my readers will 
 say with me, “ Nothing could be better.” 
 
 Jellies a la Victoria. —Blanch in boiling water for a few minutes 
 two ounces of pistachios, rub off the skins in a dry cloth, then split the 
 pistachio nuts in two, and each half into finely-cut shreds lengthways. 
 When all are done, place them on a plate to dry in the screen. While 
 doing so, take a three-quart stewpan and scald it out with boiling 
 water, then place in the same not quite two quarts of brilliant calf’s 
 feet jelly, which should be liquid, but not warm in the least. Into 
 this open a book of gold-leaf and gently blow into the jelly about six 
 leaves of gold-leaf, and then with a silver or plated fork break up the 
 gold-leaf into particles, and then add your pistachios which you have 
 cut into shreds. 
 
CLEAR CALF’S FEET JELLIES OF ORANGES. 189 
 
 Then place the stewpan in a kitchen-pan with a little ice round it so 
 as to partly set the jelly, which should be very gently stirred with a 
 plated tablespoon to and fro, so as to well mix the gold-leaf and shred 
 pistachio with the jelly. And directly you see the jelly begin to set, 
 pour it into two quart jelly moulds, which have been duly scalded out 
 with boiling water and wiped dry with a clean cloth. When the moulds 
 are filled, place them in a kitchen-pan, put some ice round them, and 
 remove to the larder till you need to turn them out. 
 
 Now let me add , jellies should have a little ice kept round the moulds 
 tip to the time you need them to go to table , and if the ice should melt add 
 a little more; and this should be done as the months of the year 
 advance and the weather becomes warmer; which is done to prevent 
 the mishap of the jelly breaking after it is turned out of the mould and 
 before it reaches the dining-room. 
 
 Clear Calf’s Feet Jellies of Oranges. —Take sixteen fragrant 
 oranges and six lemons. Rub the rind of the oranges upon a lump of 
 loaf sugar of about two pounds weight, and when you have obtained as 
 much of the zest from the rind as possible, squeeze the juice from the 
 oranges and also the lemons into a kitchen-pan. Then scrape from the 
 sugar the zest from the oranges. Then take three quarts of calf’s feet 
 stock (for which see page 8 of this work), and be as particular in freeing 
 the same from every particle of grease and oil as you have been instructed 
 to do in making calf's foot jelly (for which see also page 14). 
 
 When the stock has been duly prepared, place it in a four-quart stewpan 
 and add to the stock the lemon and orange juice, also the zest obtained 
 from the rind of the oranges and about twelve ounces of the lump of 
 sugar from which you scraped the zest. Stir the same over the hot¬ 
 plate fire till it becomes warm and the sugar has melted. 
 
 Now taste the same, and see if it is quite palatable; and it might be 
 that a little more sugar or another couple of lemons would improve the 
 flavour; if so, add them. Add also two wineglasses of brandy; and 
 when your jelly is warm remove it from the fire, and crack nine fine 
 eggs (taking care, if the eggs are any way soiled, to wash them, as the 
 shells will have to go into the jelly and boiled in the same), and crack 
 them one at a time; and as you crack them, smell each one carefully, 
 
190 CLEAR CALF’S FEET JELLY OF ORANGES. 
 
 for fear there should be a musty one among them ; and I well know you 
 cannot be too particular in this matter. Let me observe, if you have 
 the least suspicion that any of the eggs are not quite the thing, 
 throw them away directly and take others. When all the eggs are broken 
 into a basin, beat them well together with a wire whisk, and then well 
 mix them with the warm stock. Stir the same on the hot-plate, and 
 do not leave it till it comes to the boil. Then draw it to the side of 
 the hot-plate where it cannot boil, but where it will keep vejy hot. 
 Leave it here for about ten minutes—to what I will say the eggs are 
 thoroughly cooked, and your jelly is thoroughly clarified—so much so, 
 that if you take up a plated tablespoonful, you can see that the jelly 
 has separated from the eggs and shows quite brilliant, before passing it 
 through the jelly bag. 
 
 For preparing the jelly and the pans to run it into, see details on 
 this point in Calf’s Feet Jelly. Let me observe, that one of the great 
 things or grand secrets in making brilliant jellies is to use whole 
 eggs, shells and all, and to mix the eggs with the jelly when only in a 
 strictly lukewarm state. There are other jellies which we shall describe 
 as the work proceeds ; such as pine apple jelly, cherry jelly, strawberry 
 jelly, currant and raspberry, and other fruit jellies, the clarification of 
 which is carried out by a different method. 
 
 And these orange jellies should be partly set before filling the moulds, 
 and a compote of oranges, prepared as for the Croutes of Orange, can 
 be served round them, adding a little clear syrup and a glass of 
 maraschino to the same. 
 
IQI 
 
 NEW ENTREE MOULDS. 
 
 HARE. 
 
 CHICKEN. 
 
 HAM. 
 
 CUTLET. 
 
 The above four moulds to be obtained from Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6, Motcomb 
 Street, Belgrave Square, London, S, W. 
 

MEN U OF DINNER 
 
 (SAY FOR MAY 13TH}, 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Creme of Rice a la Victoria. 
 
 Clear Consomme^ la Printainere. 
 
 ( Two Fish.) 
 
 Scollops of Salmon a l’Imperial. 
 
 Fried Smelts, with Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 (Four Entrees.) 
 
 Two Soufflees of Fowl, a la Bechemelle. 
 
 Two Cutlets of Mutton, a la Pompadour. 
 
 (Two Removes.) 
 
 Fore Quarter of Lamb, roast a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Capons and Tongue, with Stewed Chesnuts, Sauce a la Financiere, 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Ducklings. Roast Quails. 
 
 (Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Asparagus a la Fran9aise. 
 
 (Two Removes.) 
 
 One Biscuits Glacee, a la Rein. 
 
 One Petits Savarins. Sauce aux Abricots. 
 
 (Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Two Maraschino Jellies, with Strawberries. 
 
 Two Charlottes, a la Princesse. 
 
 (Savoury Entremets.) 
 
 Two Petits Brioche au Parmesan. 
 
 Vegetables in Season. 
 
 O 
 
*94 
 
 GREENGROCER, 
 
 V 
 
 The same advice given previously in this work, we again repeat: 
 Prepare the stocks, both the first and second stocks, on the nth, and 
 your foundation sauces and soups on the 12th; also make your jelly 
 and quenelle meat on the same day, which will enable you to be forward 
 with your dinner; and the same plans of procedure should be followed 
 regarding the Menu as previously instructed. 
 
 Requisition List for dinner of sixteen or eighteen persons, for 
 May 13th, 1S86. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and half veal, and with¬ 
 out bones, five calves’ feet, a two-pound slice of veal, two pounds of 
 gravy beef, one ox tongue, two necks of mutton, one fore quater of 
 lamb. 
 
 Note .—The fore quarter of lamb to be in the kitchen at nine o’clock 
 on the morning of the 13th. All the other items by nine o’clock on 
 the morning of the nth. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 A prime cut of split salmon about three and a half pounds, one gill 
 of live spawn, eighteen smelts of same size. To be in the kitchen by 
 nine o’clock on the morning of the 13th. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Three fine fowls to cut, of the best quality, two old hens, two fine 
 capons trussed for braizing, three ducklings to roast, eight quails to roast, 
 barded. The fowls to cut and the old hens needed for the nth; the 
 remainder for the morning of the 13th. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Four heads of celery, eight carrots, twelve onions, half bunch parsley, 
 half bunch of thyme, one dish spinach, one dish sea kale, three quart tins 
 of young preserved peas in cans, one hundred and a half of asparagus, 
 eight pounds of new potatoes, one salad, half bunch spring onions, a 
 little chervil and tarragon, four lettuce, six turnips, twelve lemons, one 
 pound of fresh strawberries, one bunch of sprue-grass, two pounds of 
 
SOUP A LA REIN. 
 
 195 
 
 chesnuts, two bunches watercress, one basket of fresh mushrooms, one 
 salad. To be in the kitchen by nine o’clock on the morning , of 
 the nth. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 One stick of Vanilla, half a pound of preserved pine apple, one 
 bottle of apricots, half pound Parmesan cheese, half a bottle of mara¬ 
 schino, one and a half pound of icing sugar, half pound of almonds, 
 small bottle salad oil, one pint can of preserved mushrooms, two and 
 a half quartern loaves, four pounds of salt butter, two pounds of fresh 
 butter, one quart tin of preserved tomatoes, five pints of fresh cream, 
 three pounds of lump sugar, twenty-four eggs, one quart of milk, six 
 pounds of fiour, half pound Carolina rice, one bottle sherry. The 
 above to be in the kitchen by nine on the morning of the nth, but the 
 cream on the 12th. 
 
 Soup a la Rein.—Having previously boiled one fowl, place the 
 same to become cold. Then measure half a pint of Carolina rice ; look 
 over the same, and pick out any black specks or soiled grains, and wash 
 the rice. Then boil the same for five minutes in a quart of water. 
 Strain it, and place in a two-quart stewpan, with a tight-fitting lid, and add 
 one quart of best white stock, and bring to the boil, and let it continue to 
 do so till the rice is very soft indeed. While dying so, pick off all the 
 w'hite meat from the bones of the fowl, and let this be chopped 
 very fine. When your rice is very soft, and will instantly smash between 
 the finger and thumb by the slightest pressure, then place the chopped 
 fowl in the mortar, and add to this half a pint of the rice that has been 
 boiling in the stock, and pound the two well together for a few minutes. 
 Then place it in the stewpan containing the other rice, and add another 
 quart of stock to this mixture, with half a pint of very fresh and best 
 quality cream (and see that it is so, for if not it will spoil your soup). 
 Then cut up in very thin slices eight fresh champignons, add these 
 also, and stir the soup till it boils, which let it do for a few minutes. 
 After this, it should be rubbed through a tammy cloth, which will require 
 two persons to do, each facing the other, and holding one end of the 
 tammy cloth tightly in the left hand, and with a large wooden spoon in 
 
 the right hand, when about one pint of soup should be put in the tammy 
 
 O 2 
 
196 SCOLLOPS OF SALMON A L’IMPERIAL. 
 
 cloth. Then by each rubbing steadily to and fro, the soup should 
 easily pass through on to a large china dish beneath ; then add 
 more soup till all has been passed. When this is done, the soup 
 should be again placed in a stewpan, and brought to the boil; and 
 take care it is not too thick, which you can readily see while stirring, 
 and if so, add a little more stock. If you think it is not quite white 
 enough, add a little more cream (and it should be white) ; then add a 
 little salt and a little sugar, but be very particular to use the salt carefully. 
 When to your satisfaction, mark it off in a soup bain-marie, leaving the 
 cover partly open. 
 
 Note .—When this soup is needed for dinner, it should be made hot in 
 the bain-marie case, or in another stewpan containing hot water, so as to 
 make it hot in a hot water bath. Bread cut in small dice shapes and fried 
 in clarified butter should be served on napkins when the soup is sent 
 to table, and be served with it ; about half a pint will prove sufficient. 
 
 Clear Consomme a la Printainere. — Prepare about half a 
 pint of spring roots — carrots, turnips, spring onions, sprue-grass, and the 
 white part of two lettuce shred fine. The spruce-grass, after the heads 
 are cut off, should be cut into half-inch lengths, and the carrots, turnips, 
 and spring onions should be cut to match the spruce-grass, using a box 
 of cutters for the carrots and turnips. When these are cut, place them 
 in a quart of boiling water containing a teaspoonful of salt to boil 
 for one minute. As soon as they boil up, strain them in a pointed tin 
 sieve, and pour a little cold water over them. 
 
 Then put them in two quarts of best brown gravy, and let them boil 
 in it till done. Then mark off in a soup bain-marie till needed. 
 When serving this soup, add some picked leaves of chervil and a 
 few tarragon leaves, which should be cut in diamond shapes, and mixed 
 with the chervil (about a good tablespoonful will be sufficient); add 
 also a little sugar and salt, and serve very hot. 
 
 Scollops of Salmon a l’Imperial. —Take the piece of split 
 salmon, which cut in three pieces of equal length. Then cut each 
 piece crossways into equal sized scollops, which should yield you about 
 five handsome scollops ; they should be trimmed somewhat in the 
 shape of cutlets, and when finished arranged on a rather thick and 
 
soufflEe of fowl A la bechemelle. 197 
 
 large saute-pan, having first placed in the same three or four spoonfuls 
 of clarified butter, a wineglass of sherry, and a little second stock. 
 
 When preparing them for dinner, place them in a rather hot 
 oven for about eight minutes, taking care to watch them, and baste 
 them frequently. When done, dish them like cutlets on a border of 
 potato paste, and making your imperial sauce very hot (see Sauces, at 
 page 125), pour it over and round the scollops of salmon, and serve. 
 
 Fried Smelts with Anchovy Sauce. —Make the half of 
 quartern loaf into fine bread crumbs. Then make a mixture of two 
 whole eggs and two yolks of eggs, beaten well together with a little salt. 
 Then with a damp cloth wipe eighteen fine smelts, and as you wipe the 
 .smelts throw them into a little flour. When all are done place one at 
 a time on a plate; then dipping your egg brush into the beaten eggs 
 mask each smelt with some, egg, and as you mask them throw them 
 into the bread crumbs. Then pat them between your hands to make 
 the crumbs adhere, and when all are done place them on a china dish, 
 on which have been thrown a few bread crumbs, and place them in the 
 larder. When needed for dinner fry them in clean hog’s lard, six at a 
 time, in a wire frying basket, placing them on a wire sieve as you do 
 them, and keep hot before the range fire. They should be dished on a 
 napkin in a pile, throwing a little salt over them before dishing. Send 
 to table with anchovy sauce in a boat. 
 
 THE ENTREES. 
 
 Soufflee of Fowl a la Bechemelle. —Make one pound of flour 
 into a short paste, rubbing six ounces of butter into the same; then 
 mix with two yolks of eggs and about three parts of half a pint of water. 
 It should be rather firm, so do not add too much water to begin with 
 as you can easily add a little more afterwards, or moisten it with your 
 paste-brush dipped in water. It should be covered with a damp cloth for 
 ten minutes after it has been made. Then roll it out as thick as a bronze 
 penny, and as large as your tartlet-pans which it is to line. You will 
 need twenty round pieces for this purpose, and they should be laid very 
 evenly in twenty tartlet-tins, and the edges should be pinched up with 
 your fingers and thumbs, so as to show a band above the edge of the 
 
ig8 CUTLETS OF MUTTON A LA POMPADOUR. 
 
 tartlet-tins. Arrange them as you finish them cn a baking-sheet. Then 
 cut the fillets from two fine fowls, and take two of the fillets from the 
 old hens which you have in reserve in the larder. Pound all these well 
 together in the mortar, and rub them through a wire sieve; and, when this 
 has been accomplished, mix gently into the same half a pint of very fresh 
 double cream, adding a little salt and cayenne pepper. Then place it in a 
 small kitchen-pan, when proceed as follows : — Mix three tablespoonfuls 
 of flour with three parts of a half pint of milk; it should be mixed very 
 smooth, and passed through a pointed tin strainer into a small basin. 
 Then place in a two-quart stewpan half a pint of bechemelle sauce, with 
 two ounces of fresh butter, and when this boils, stir in the flour which- 
 you have mixed and strained. Stir this till it boils, keeping it stirred on 
 the hot-plate after it has boiled for a couple of minutes. Then carefully 
 part six eggs, placing the whites into a very clean dry pan and the yolks 
 into another ; then stir the yolks of eggs into your thickened sauce two 
 at a time. Stir them in on the fire (but only to partly cook them), then 
 stir into this the prepared chicken ; mix well together, adding a little 
 salt. Then place the six whites in a clean copper bowl, and with an 
 equally clean whisk beat the whites of eggs to what is termed a firm 
 snow, which means till they are very firm indeed. Then mix them with 
 the chicken, half at a time, lightly and gently into the mixture, with 
 which fill your tartlet-pans, which you have lined with paste. They 
 should be filled carefully, putting the same quantity in each. The 
 whites of eggs should be prepared just at the last moment. When you 
 are ready to bake them, you should time yourself, so as to have them 
 baked just in time for dinner. Let me add, they should be baked in a 
 suitable oven, not too hot, and of a nice brown colour, and dished in a 
 pile in the entree dish, with a little bechemelle sauce poured round 
 them just before serving. 
 
 Cutlets of Mutton a la Pompadour. — Prepare three necks of 
 mutton, the same as for lamb cutlets (page 125), with a bone in each, 
 and cut as full as possible, but not bread-crumbed. Then cut four 
 large truffles into shreds half an inch long and an eighth of an inch 
 square, and the same quantity of tongue and of fat bacon. These 
 should be all the same size, as far as possible. 
 
CAPONS AND TONGUE, WITH STEWED CHESNUTS. 199 
 
 Now with a suitably sized larding pin place five pieces in the fillet of 
 each cutlet, one piece in the centre, and four pieces round the centre 
 piece—first two of tongue, then two of bacon, then one of truffle ; then 
 place them in a sauffl-pan deep enough to braize them in, adding an 
 onion, a carrot, and a little celery, thyme, and parsley. Cut very thin; 
 cover these with some of the fat from the necks ; then add sufficient 
 water to cover all, and let gently boil forty minutes. When done 
 leave them in this liquor till the next day. Then trim them of the 
 same size; then with two whole eggs and three yolks of eggs, with a 
 little salt mixed with them, egg and bread-crumb them and mark them 
 off; and when needed for dinner, fry about six at a time in clean hog’s 
 lard, and dish on borders of potato paste, garnish with asparagus peas 
 in the centre, and Espagnol sauce round them, taking care your sauce 
 is boiling hot when you serve them. 
 
 TWO REMOVES. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Lamb a l’Anglaiee. 
 
 Capons and Tongue with Stewed Chesnuts. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Lamb a l’Anglaise.— Saw off the chine bone 
 and the shank bone. Then the ribs in two down the centre, and trim 
 and skewer the same for roasting. About one hour and three quarters 
 or two hours should roast it. When you take it from the fire cut off the 
 shoulder, and if it appears the least underdone, let the shoulder roast 
 another quarter of an hour. When dishing to send away, a pat of butter 
 should be placed between the shoulder and the ribs, and the juice of 
 half a lemon squeezed over the same, with a slight sprinkling of pepper 
 and salt. Send with some best gravy, and mint sauce in a boat. 
 
 Capons and Tongue, with Stewed Chesnuts. —Make the 
 slice of veal and the two remaining fillets from the old hens into 
 quenelle meat, the same as for Quenelles of Pheasants (see 
 page 10), and mix a little chopped mushrooms and truffles 
 with the quenelle. Then cut away the stump left from the 
 neck from each capon, and part of the breast bone, and divide 
 the quenelle meat just prepared between the two capons, taking 
 
200 CAPONS AND TONGUE, WITH STEWED CHESNUTS. 
 
 care to secure the skin by placing a small skewer through it, so 
 as to enclose the quenelle meat. Then have some boiling water in 
 a three-quart stewpan, and, holding a capon by the back part, hold or 
 keep the breast part in the boiling water for about two minutes, when 
 do the other the same. This is done to enable you to lard them more 
 easily. Now cut a piece of fat bacon into strips, one and a half inch 
 long, and the eighth of an inch square, and place five rows of larding 
 on each breast; then place them in a stewpan with a little finely cut 
 up, soup vegetables, and one pint of second stock and half a pint of 
 water. When you are ready to cook them, let them boil for one hour 
 very slowly, and when you are about to dish them, place them on a 
 saute-pan and put them in the oven to finish the larding, which should 
 have a little glaze run over it several times, and when of a nice brown 
 colour dish them up. The following sauce should be served up with 
 them :— Cut a little of the hard covering from each chesnut off top 
 and bottom, and have two quarts of boiling water in a three-quart 
 stewpan, and place eight chesnuts in one of your wire frying baskets : and 
 when you see that the water is boiling, throw about half a pint of cold 
 water into it, and then put the wire basket containing the eight chesnuts 
 into the hot water, and let it remain about two minutes ; then with¬ 
 draw it, and with your small knife remove the upper and under 
 skin, which should come away together readily—if not, dip them 
 again. Proceed thus till you have prepared three dozen ; then look over 
 them, and remove with your knife any bruises or specks, and put them 
 in a stewpan with a gill of sherry, one gill of best stock, and one 
 pint of Espagnol sauce, and let stew very slowly about half an hour, 
 and when tender they are done. The essence in which the capons were 
 braized should be strained off, reduced to a glaze, and added to the 
 chesnuts, with a little salt and cayenne pepper. When serving, the 
 tongue should be glazed and made hot, then placed between the capons, 
 and the chesnut sauce served round it very hot, and sent away. 
 
 SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 Roast Ducklings. 
 
 Roast Quails. 
 
rETITS SAVARINS, WITH APRICOT SAUCE. 
 
 201 
 
 TWO VEGETABLES. 
 
 Asparagus a la Fran^aise. 
 
 The ducklings will take about one hour; they ought to roast very 
 slowly, and be well done, and served with a little best gravy, with some 
 watercresses round them. The quails will take about half an hour, and 
 should be served with plain financiere sauce (see list of Sauces, pages 206 
 and 207), and the asparagus should be carefully boiled off, taking great 
 care they are not too much done; they should be served cold with 
 a salad dressing h la Fra^aise poured round and over them after the 
 heads are built up in a pile in the dish, and sent to table with the 
 Second Course Roast. 
 
 Note .—Lemon juice is sometimes used instead of vinegar for the 
 sauce, served with the cold asparagus. 
 
 SECOND COURSE REMOVES. 
 
 Petits Savarins, with Apricot Sauce 
 Biscuits Glacee a la Rein. 
 
 Petits Savarins, with Apricot Sauce. —Make one pound of 
 flour, eight eggs, and ten ounces of butter into a paste, the same as 
 for Baba (see January number of this work). Chop half a pound of 
 blanched almonds, not too fine, then nicely butter twenty dariole 
 moulds with creamed butter, and lightly sprinkle them with the 
 chopped almonds. When the baba paste has been allowed to prove 
 for about half an hour, and has risen by the action of the yeast to 
 a nice light paste, fill the dariole moulds three parts full, and let 
 them still prove till they have risen slightly above the rim of the 
 dariole moulds; then bake them of a light colour; and it is well to 
 stand them on a sheet of paper folded twice, which will prevent them 
 becoming too dark while baking. 
 
 Before serving the Petits Savarins, cut a little off the bottom of each, 
 so as to make them stand level and be of the same size. Then place 
 them on a large china dish, about one hour before serving, and pour 
 over them about half a pint of syrup, in which has been mixed a wine¬ 
 glass of maraschino and the same of pale brandy. They will require a 
 
202 
 
 BISCUITS GLACEE A LA REIN. 
 
 little of your care while in the syrup, and with a spoon should be rolled 
 over and over, so that the syrup penetrates them equally; then when 
 they have absorbed the syrup, mark them off on a clean dish, straining 
 what syrup might be left over them. Serve on a silver oval dish, with 
 an apricot sauce in the centre (see list of Sauces a few pages on). 
 
 Biscuits Glacee a la Rein.—One pint and a half of milk, 
 pint of cream, six ounces of sugar, and eight eggs, with the seeds from 
 one stick of vanilla, and the gratings of the rind of one lemon. Make 
 the above into a smooth custard as follow’s :—Place the milk and cream 
 in a two-quart stewpan on the fire to boil; while it is doing so, crack 
 the eight eggs into a basin; be very attentive to smell each one , for 
 fear any should be musty. When you have proved them to be right, 
 add the six ounces of sugar, and beat these well together. Then give 
 your attention to the milk and cream, and directly it boils mix half a 
 pint with the eggs and sugar, beating them with a wire v’hisk rapidly 
 together. Then add another half pint, and so on till the eggs and milk 
 have been w r ell blended or mixed together. Then stir it over the fire 
 till it begins to thicken ; you must be very attentive not to let the custard 
 boil, but only to thicken ; and as soon as you see it thicken, instantly 
 remove it from the fire and stand your stewpan by you, keeping it 
 stirred rapidly ; and it is w r ell at this point to add another gill of 
 cream, and stir this rapidly into the mixture, and also to have a basin 
 with cold water in it ; and instantly you take the stewpan containing 
 the custard, place it in the cold water and stir it till partly cold. These 
 simple precautions will prevent the custard from curdling, which should 
 not happen if due attention is given. And now when your custard is 
 right, scrape the black seeds from the stick of vanilla, which should be 
 cut in two, and the seeds scraped out with your small knife, and rubbed 
 together with a spoonful of powdered sugar and added to the custard, 
 which should be placed in a pewter freezer. 
 
 Then break up small about twenty pounds of ice, and well mix this 
 with about three pounds of salt, and place it round the freezer; then, 
 by the handle of the cover turn the freezer round and round for five 
 minutes ; then with your ice spatula mix the custard that you will find 
 has set round the inside of the freezer with that part which has not 
 
TWO CHARLOTTES A LA PRINCESSE. 
 
 203 
 
 frozen, and then turn it round and round again for another five minutes, 
 when again mix it well with the ice spatula—in fact, it should now be 
 well beaten together so as to make it very smooth, and when it is so, 
 cut up half a pound of candied pine apple slices into small dice, and 
 stir this well into the frozen pudding. And about two hours before the 
 dinner hour place another freezer in a tub or pail with some broken and 
 well-salted ice round the freezer; then take twenty ornamental paper 
 cases, called fondu cases, and rub a quarter of a pound of ratifias to a 
 powder, and fill the cases with your frozen custard, shaking a little of 
 your powdered ratifias over them, and arrange them at the bottom and 
 up the sides of the empty freezer ; and when all have been filled with an 
 equal quantity, and duly arranged in the freezer with powdered ratifias 
 over each one, then scoop out (having removed the freezer) what ice 
 is in the other freezing tub, and sprinkling fresh salt over the same,"add 
 this or place it round the freezer in which are your biscuits glacee, and 
 let them so remain till you need them for table, when dish them on 
 napkins or ornamented papers, upon an oval silver dish, and send to 
 table. 
 
 Two Maraschino Jellies with Fresh Strawberries. —Melt 
 sufficient jelly to fill two quart moulds, and add to the same two wine¬ 
 glasses of maraschino. Then take your jelly moulds, which should be 
 dipped in hot water and wiped dry, and place them in a kitchen- 
 pan with some small ice round them, and place a little jelly in the 
 fnside, and then place a few strawberries in each. When they have 
 set in the jelly, then cover them with more, and so on till your 
 pound of strawberries have been used, when fill up the jelly moulds to 
 the brim with jelly, and place in the larder till you have to serve them. 
 
 Then dip each one separately in half a pail of water, slightly warm, 
 and dry each mould in a cloth ; then slightly shake the moulds between 
 your two hands, and when you find the jelly loose, turn each on a dish, 
 upon which it is to go to table, and send away when needed. 
 
 Two Charlottes a la Princesse. —Make the day previous to 
 your dinner one pound of flour into Genoise cake, as follows :—One 
 pound and two ounces of flour, one pound of powdered lump sugar, 
 one pound of butter, seven eggs, and the gratings of the peel from one 
 
204 
 
 TWO CHARLOTTES A LA PRINCESSE. 
 
 lemon. Crack your eggs carefully into a basin, smelling each one to be 
 certain they are fresh; then place the butter to get a little warm, and 
 beat it with a wire whisk till it shows as white as cream. Then add the 
 one pound of powdered sugar, and still keep beating for about five 
 minutes, placing in the same the gratings from the peel of a lemon; and 
 making the pan a little warm, then add your eggs, two at a time, and 
 well beat the mixture. When all the seven eggs have been well beaten in 
 sift the flour, and stir this lightly but well into the mixture. Free the 
 whisk from the mixture, and scrape it together with a palette knife ; 
 then butter a suitable size baking sheet with some clarified butter, 
 and spread over this a sheet of buttered paper ; then place the Genoise 
 cake on this, spreading evenly with your knife to about the thickness of 
 half an inch, when bake the same in a good sound heated oven, but 
 not rash. When done, place it just as it came from the oven, till you 
 are ready to use it, in the larder. 
 
 And we will suppose the Genoise cake a day old, and by this means 
 it will cut out readily and proper for your purpose. So squeeze the 
 juice of two good lemons into a white basin, and mix sufficient icing 
 sugar with this juice to mix what is termed a lemon icing, which should 
 be about as thick as single cream, or a little thicker. 
 
 Then take two plain quart-size round Charlotte moulds, as upright as 
 possible, cut a band of paper that will measure exactly round the upright 
 part of the inside, and with a box of long cutters, take one about three- 
 quarters of an inch in diameter, and folding the band of paper into two, 
 see how many round pieces it will take to exactly fill the inside of the 
 mould, which you can tell by measuring the band of paper by your cutter ; 
 and if the one selected does not fit exactly (which it must do) take a cutter 
 a little larger or a little less, till you have found exactly the size needed. 
 Then cut out your Genoise cake to level pieces of about a quarter of an 
 inch thick, and adding a few drops of cochineal, make your lemon 
 icing a light rose pink, and with this evenly mask the pieces of cake and 
 place them at the mouth of the oven to dry, which they will quickly do, 
 and have a very glossy appearance ; then place them where they will soon 
 get quite cold ; and when they are so, then with the cutter which you 
 have selected to suit your purpose cut out the iced cake into circular 
 
PETITS BRIOCHE AU PARMESAN. 
 
 205 
 
 pieces sufficient in number to fill the inside of each plain Charlotte 
 mould, placing one row first, then another fitting exactly between the 
 first row, and so on till each mould is filled. Then one ounce and a 
 half of pied de vcan gelatine should be put in a pint of cold water; then 
 whip one pint and a half of fresh cream till it is a firm snow, and 
 place about one gill of noyeau in a two-quart stewpan, and six ounces 
 of powdered sugar. After this place a gill of water in a stewpan, 
 and when it boils strain the gelatine and place it in the gill of boiling 
 water and stir it till it boils, when pour it over the noyeau and sugar, 
 and place all on the fire to get a little warm, and then mix into 
 this your whipped cream. When this is well mixed, fill the two 
 Charlotte moulds with it which you lined with the Genoise cake. 
 
 After this select two small jelly moulds (round pint moulds), and whip 
 about three parts of a pint of jelly, which should be melted in a very clean 
 stewpan ; and with a very clean whisk, whisk it till it becomes like 
 cream; then divide it between the two pint moulds, pouring the same 
 in a partly liquid state into the bottom of each, which should be 
 kept on a little ice; and when your Charlottes are turned out on the 
 dishes, then what is in the two pint moulds should be turned 
 out also (the same as you would turn out a jelly), and placed on the 
 Charlottes will form a top to each. And then when needed sent to 
 table. These tops cazi be pink or otherzuise, according to your fancy. 
 
 Petits Brioche au Parmesan. —Make half a pound mixture of 
 baba cake (the same as in the January number of this work), and, when 
 it has proved nicely and shows light, make it in equal-size round balls, 
 about the size of a large chesnut. They should be made in the shape 
 of little loaves, and placed in buttered tartlet-pans; and when they have 
 proved nice and light, egg them over with a yolk of egg mixed with a 
 teaspoonful of water, and bake them in a rather cool oven, taking care 
 they are not overbaked. Place them in the screen a little time before 
 serving, and grate about two ounces of Parmesan, and add this to a gill 
 of bechemelle sauce, with a little cayenne, and make this hot over the 
 fire; and, before dishing, with a small sharp knife cut a hole in the side 
 of each, and with a teaspoon place a little more than a teaspoonful 
 of the prepared Parmesan in each. Then arrange them on a baking- 
 
20 6 
 
 CHESNUT SAUCE FOR CAPONS. 
 
 sheet, and put them in the oven till hot, when dish them on plates on 
 cut papers. About sixteen or eighteen is the number needed. 
 
 The Dinner Sauces. —And now, the dinner being duly arranged, 
 we will proceed to give a list of all the sauces needed for the same, 
 (the foundation sauces being ready to hand), which will be found as 
 follows:— • 
 
 Imperial sauce for salmon, one pint. 
 
 Anchovy sauce for smelts, one pint. 
 
 Bechemelle sauce for soufflees, one pint. 
 
 Espagnol sauce for cutlets, one pint. 
 
 One pint of Asparagus Peas for cutlets. 
 
 Mint sauce for roast lamb, half pint. 
 
 Asparagus Peas for cutlets, one pint. 
 
 Sauce for capons, one and a half pint. 
 
 Best gravy for roast lamb, half pint. 
 
 Gravy for roast ducklings, half pint. 
 
 Financiere sauce for quails, half pint. 
 
 Salad dressing a la Frangaise for asparagus, one pint. 
 
 Butter sauce for vegetables and fish, one quart. 
 
 Imperial Sauce. — Prepare this sauce as described on page 125. 
 Make very hot, and pour over the scollops of salmon and round them. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. — Rub two spoonfuls of live lobster spawn 
 through a hair sieve ; add this, with one spoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 to one pint of butter sauce, with the juice of half a lemon, and a little 
 cayenne pepper. For Butter Sauce, see page 23. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce. — See Sauce List, pages 13 and 125, as pre¬ 
 pared for vol-au-vents. You will not want more than one pint, and only 
 a little is needed for the soufflees. 
 
 Mint Sauce. —Pick the leaves from half a bunch of mint; then 
 chop up fine (after washing the same and drying them), when place 
 them in a kitchen-pan; add two good spoonfuls of sugar, a gill 
 and a half of vinegar, and about one gill of water; mix well together, 
 and serve warm with the roast lamb in a sauce boat when leaving the 
 kitchen. 
 
 Chesnut Sauce for Capons. —This sauce has been described 
 
THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 207 
 
 with the preparation of the capons, but the tongue should be 
 glazed, and served plain between the capons. Take care your 
 your chesnut sauce is made very hot before serving. 
 
 Plain Gravy for the Ducklings. —Half a pint of plain gravy will 
 be sufficient. 
 
 Financiere Sauce for Quails. —One wineglass of sherry should 
 boil in half a pint of Espagnol (see pages 13, 127 and 128), with a little 
 salt and a very small quantity of cayenne. 
 
 Asparagus Sauce. —Beat the same quantity of oil and white wine 
 vinegar, and a little sugar, salt and pepper together, and when your 
 cold asparagus is piled in the dish, pour the sauce over and round it. 
 About half a pint of sauce should be sufficient, and should be served 
 cold, and lemon-juice can be used instead of vinegar, if preferred. 
 
 Apricot Sauce for Savarins. —Rub half a pint pot of apricot jam 
 through a hair sieve. Add to this a wineglass of brandy, a spoonful of 
 powdered sugar, and a wineglass of water. Let boil together and become 
 cold, and keep so ; and when serving the savarins, which should also be 
 cold, pour this sauce round them, but not over them, and serve. 
 
 And now that the sauces are all prepared, the name of each should 
 be written out, and placed on the handle of each bain-marie, when 
 they should be placed in the bain-marie case with the soups, leaving out 
 the mint sauce and the apricot sauce. As before intimated, they are to 
 be served cold. 
 
 The Vegetables and all things (this being the day of the dinner 
 as we will suppose, and the time five o’clock) should be ready to hand, 
 and arranged in due order. It is well, as I have previously remarked, 
 to look at the menu attentively, and thoroughly make sure that ail things 
 needed are ready to your hand. By looking at the requisition list you 
 will see that your vegetables are new potatoes, spinach, seakale, and 
 preserved peas in tins, and a salad for the butler, and cold asparagus for 
 the second course roast. The head kitchen-maid should see that these 
 are at once prepared, or already for dressing. The- stalks should be 
 picked off the spinach, and put to soak in plenty of water, and the new 
 potatoes nicely scraped or peeled. The asparagus should be scraped and 
 the leaves trimmed off the stalks, and tied up in even bundles, and cut in 
 
208 
 
 THE BAIN-MARIE CASE. 
 
 suitable lengths. They should be tied up tightly, so as not to separate 
 in boiling, then boiled off, taking the greatest care they are not boiled too 
 much, and they should be allowed to stand, or placed where they can get 
 cold quickly. Then the peas should be taken out of the tins, and emptied 
 into boiling water (about two quarts), with a bundle of fresh mint in it 
 and some salt, and just allowed to boil up. Then strain them, and 
 leave the bunch of mint with them, and also place a good pat of butter 
 with them. About one pint of peas should be taken from them for the 
 Cutlets h la Pompadour; the rest should be placed ready for making 
 hot when you need them. 
 
 The Spinach should be boiled till tender, then pressed on a 
 hair sieve to free it from moisture, when it should be chopped very 
 fine, and then rubbed through a wire sieve, when a good pat of butter 
 should be added (after placing it in a stewpan); also a little grated 
 nutmeg, and a little Espagnol sauce, and a little sugar and salt. Mix 
 well together, and place it ready for making hot alongside the peas. 
 
 The Seakale should have the rough part of the roots cdt away, 
 be well washed, tied in bundles, and boiled till tender, and placed on a 
 hair sieve, and the toast to dish it upon ready, and the melted butter also. 
 
 The New Potatoes. —These should not be put upon the fire to 
 boil till ten minutes before the dinner hour; bearing in mind the 
 vegetables are not required till the removes leave the kitchen; they 
 should not be made hot too soon ; but when they leave the kitchen 
 they should be sent very hot to table. 
 
 And now regarding the plain roast dishes. 
 
 The Quarter of Lamb to Roast. —Place this down to roast at 
 six o’clock; it will take two hours, and should be well basted during 
 the time of its roasting, and taken from the fire at eight o’clock. 
 
 The Roast Ducklings and the Quails. — The ducklings will 
 take about one hour to roast, and the quails about half an hour. They 
 
 4 
 
 should be watched attentively, and often basted. 
 
 The Bain-Marie Case. —This should now go on the hot-plate, 
 and be about half full of water; and the soups and sauces which are 
 served hot should be all arranged in it, and attended to, so as to make 
 them hot, and ready for use at the time they will be required. 
 
FAT FOR FRYING. 
 
 209 
 
 The Two Capons. —These should be placed also on the fire to 
 braize. About one hour will cook them. Then they should be taken 
 up and nicely glazed, according to previous instructions, and the stock 
 or essence strained off, well skimmed, and then reduced to a glaze, and 
 added to the stewed chesnuts, in which should be the scollops of 
 tongue, which should be kept hot in the bain-marie case till needed. 
 
 Potatoe Paste and eight potatoes (old ones) should be baked or 
 steamed till done ; then rubbed through a wire sieve, placed in a stew- 
 pan, with two yolks of eggs, a pat of butter, a little salt and sugar, and 
 half a grated nutmeg added. Then mix well together till this becomes 
 a paste that you can readily roll out or make into shapes ; and if not 
 quite to this point, add another yolk of egg to it, when I doubt not it 
 will do so for dishing up upon. 
 
 Croustades of Bread for Soup. —Cut a few slices of bread 
 about as thick as a two-shilling piece, then cut these into small dice 
 not quite an eighth of an inch square ; you will require about half a 
 pint; and they should be fried a light gold colour in a little clarified 
 butter, placed in a saute-pan, and made hot for the purpose ; and when 
 finished, strained, then dish on napkin, or on an ornamental dish’paper. 
 
 Things to attend to. —This being done, see that you have all 
 your dishes ready, silver or china; also the sauceboats and soup 
 tureens, and that the china plates are all getting hot in the screen. 
 These little matters, through want of attention, often cause great con¬ 
 fusion. It is certainly well to see to these trifles, if you wish your dinner 
 to be well served. There can be no doubt also that two men should 
 be appointed to carry the dishes out of the kitchen and bring the 
 other dishes back. 
 
 Fat for Frying.—A small bladder of lard should be placed in a 
 
 stew-pan for this purpose on the hot-plate, so as to be ready for use, also 
 
 two wire frying-baskets. And now we will suppose the time seven 
 
 o’clock, and your dinner is at eight o’clock. So when the fat is nice 
 
 and hot, fry off the Cotelettes a la Pompadour, placing about six at a 
 
 time in one of your wire frying-baskets. They should be fried of a 
 
 light brown colour, and placed on a wire sieve as you finish them. 
 
 Proceed thus till you have fried them all. Then make two borders 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 THE SCOLLOPS OF SALMON. 
 
 of potato paste in the central part of the bottoms of two entree 
 dishes, and on these dish your cutlets evenly, and as uniformly leaning 
 on each other as possible. When both are dished, divide the pint 
 of peas, which you kept back, between them ; then cover them and 
 place in the screen. 
 
 Soufflees of Fowl. —These being ready for baking, according to 
 the instructions previously given, put them in the oven, and watch 
 them from time to time till nicely done. Then they should be 
 dished the same as patties, almost at the last moment, and forming 
 your other two entrees, but they must not be dished on napkins, nor 
 till you are ready to serve them, because you need them to be as light 
 as possible; so the best thing is to keep them in the screen till you are 
 ready to serve them, or at the mouth of the oven. 
 
 The Scollops of Salmon. —Place these also in the oven. While 
 they are cooking fry off the smelts, taking care that your fat is nice and 
 hot; fry off about six at a time, placing on a wire sieve as you do them, 
 and when finished leave them for a time, where they will keep hot. 
 
 The Roasts. —Now look to your roasts, basting the lamb; and 
 see that the roast ducklings and quails are put down to roast in good 
 time. 
 
 Let one of your assistants pick and cut the chervil and tarragon 
 for the spring soup, and place it when picked in a soup tureen. 
 
 The Scollops of Salmon. — Make a nice border of potato paste 
 on a suitable size silver or china dish. If you have not a silver one, make 
 a slight indentation in the border of potato paste, so that the scollops of 
 salmon will dish more readily on the potatoes, and I think you will find 
 they are now done, which can be readily seen, so we will dish them, 
 which is done by dishing them after the same way as the cutlets, dishing 
 from you on the right; that is to say, the point of each from you and the 
 fillets to you, and so go right round to the left-hand side of the dish. 
 When dished, keep them as hot as possible tillyou sauce them. Look now 
 to your sauces, and see they are really hot; also the soups. Now fold 
 your napkin, and dish the smelts in a pile on the napkin on a suitable 
 size dish, sprinkling a little salt over them before dishing, and then 
 placing them where they will keep hot. And here let me say, I am 
 
THE REMOVES. 
 
 21 I 
 
 afraid my constant remarks about sauces and dishes being hot may 
 become apparently wearisome, but I well know a cook’s pursuit of per¬ 
 fection is often under great difficulties, through want of proper hot 
 closets, and hence my repetitions on this subject. But lo! it is eight 
 o’clock, and the dinner is ordered. But let us look to our Soufflees de 
 Volaille, and see that they are all right, and the soups are served almost 
 as quickly as called for. Now take out of the oven the soufflees, and 
 place in the oven the two dishes of fish to keep hot, and taste the fish 
 sauces; and we shall agree that the Sauce a l’lmperial (one of my own), 
 as it is for fish, would be improved by the addition of a tablespoonful of 
 essence of anchovy. And hark! our monitor, the bell, gives forth its 
 earnest tintinabulations, and the fish is needed, and sent away in due 
 accordance with previous instructions. 
 
 The Roasts. —Now dish up the roast quarter of lamb, the duck¬ 
 lings, and the quails, placing them on proper dishes, and removing the 
 skewers. 
 
 The Vegetables. —See that these are dished, or that such is 
 preparing to be done. 
 
 THE ENTREES. 
 
 Soufflees of Fowl a la Bechemelle. —The soufflees of fowl 
 should be now placed on the two entree dishes, six at the bottom and 
 four at the top, and placed at the mouth of the oven to keep hot; and 
 when called for, served with about one gill of bechemelle sauce round 
 each dish, and then sent away. 
 
 Cutlets of Mutton a la Pompadour. —The cutlets being 
 already dished, and your Espagnol sauce quite hot, pour a spoonful or 
 two of sauce over the peas in their centre. When sending away pour 
 the hot Espagnol round them, and place the cover on each, and serve. 
 
 The Removes. —Now look to your capons and roast lamb, and 
 
 see that the chesnut sauce is ready. When the removes are called for, 
 
 pour the sauce round them, and send away. And see that the shoulder 
 
 has been cut from the quarter of lamb ; and a little butter, pepper, and 
 
 salt, and the juice of half a lemon squeezed between the shoulder and 
 
 the ribs beneath, and the butter mixed with the seasoning. Then the 
 
 hot gravy should be added, and sent away, taking care that the mint 
 
 P 2 
 
212 
 
 THE CHARLOTTES A LA PRINCESSE. 
 
 sauce, hot or warm, goes up with it in a sauceboat, and that the whole 
 of the vegetables (the cold asparagus excepted) goes with the Removes. 
 
 The Second Course Roast. —These should be now dished up 
 and kept as hot as possible, the ducklings sent away with plain gravy 
 and watercress, and the quails with financiere sauce; and the cold 
 asparagus sauced, and sent away with the roast. 
 
 Removes of Roast. — The Biscuits Glacee a la Rein and the 
 Petits Savarin should next be prepared. The savarins first, which can 
 be sauced and made quite ready. Then a napkin folded and placed 
 on its dish ready for the biscuits glacee, and the freezer which contains 
 this, should be near at hand ; and as soon as they are asked for they 
 should be dished in a neat pile, and both sent away together. 
 
 The Four Sweets. —Arrange your four silver dishes for these, 
 which are generally the entree covers, and have by you a half pail of 
 warm water; have a clean rubber in your left hand, and with your 
 right hand dip entirely in the water one of the moulds of jelly, which 
 should be dipped quickly and instantly withdrawn. Then dry the 
 mould with the rubber, and, holding the mould between your two hands, 
 give it a gentle shake ; and when you find the jelly loose turn it out 
 gently on to the silver dish ; bu*t do not attempt to turn it out till you 
 feel sure it is loose and ready to leave the mould. Sometimes, particu¬ 
 larly in very cold weather, the mould may require dipping a second time , 
 and the same if the water is not quite warm enough, which should 
 always be a little hotter than what we term luke-warm water. Let me 
 add a few words of advice regarding jellies, particularly when they have 
 fruit in them : keep a little rough ice round them up to the last moment ; 
 this precaution will be sure to strengthen them and enable you to turn 
 them out of the moulds more easily and with greater confidence. 
 
 The Charlottes a la Princesse. —Place two suitable dessert 
 papers on your other two silver dishes, and then hold one of the moulds 
 in the right hand (having trimmed, if necessary, any sign of unevenness 
 in any part of the cake or cream), and let the bottom of the mould 
 remain in the water for a couple of seconds. Then turn out the 
 Charlotte into the exact centre of the dessert paper, and when both are 
 turned out, then make the watera little warmer, and dip the moulds (the 
 
PETITS BRIOCHE AU PARMESAN. 
 
 213 
 
 pint moulds) a little way in the warm water ; turn out one of the tops 
 (shaking the mould the same as for the jelly) till it slips on to your left 
 hand, when place it on the top of one of your Charlottes, and do the 
 same with the other; and when asked for send your jellies away first, 
 then your Charlottes to follow. 
 
 Petits Brioche au Parmesan. —Cut a slit in the side of each 
 little brioche, large enough to admit the point of a teaspoon. As you 
 do them place them on a baking-sheet; then place in a small stewpan 
 one gill of bechemelle sauce, and when it boils add two yolks of eggs. 
 Stir these into the sauce very quickly till it has thickened the sauce, but 
 do not let it boil; then sprinkle into this a little at a time, two ounces 
 of Parmesan, grated, and a little cayenne ; then, with a teaspooon, 
 place a little of this mixture inside of each (you will require twenty). 
 When you have equally divided it among the brioche loaves, place them 
 in the oven, and when nice and hot dish them on two silver plates, and 
 place them at the mouth of the oven till asked for. And this completes 
 the dinner. 
 
214 
 
 RAISED PIE OF FOWL A L’ASPIC. 
 
 A LIST OF GROSSE PIECES, OR LARGE DISHES. 
 
 FOR WEDDING AND PUBLIC BREAKFASTS, BALL SUPPERS AND 
 
 COLD COLLATIONS. 
 
 Raised Pie of Fowl a l’Aspic. 
 
 Raise Pie of Preserved Game a l’Aspic, 
 
 French Pie of Boned Pigeons a l’Aspic. 
 
 Pigeon Pie in Dish a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Galantine of Fowl aux Truffes a l’Aspic. 
 
 Scollops of Salmon en Mayonnaise. 
 
 Galantine of Saddle of Lamb h l’Aspic. 
 
 Galantine of Spring Chickens a l’Aspic. 
 
 Roast Haunch of Lamb a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Braized Ribs of Spiced Beef h l’Anglaise. 
 
 The above list of dishes, the preparation of which will commence on 
 the following page, are intended as a choice list, from whigh selections 
 can be made. 
 
 Raised Pie of Fowl a l’Aspic. — Sift three pounds of flour on 
 your pastry slab, then place four ounces of lard in a pint and a half of 
 boiling water, and let the lard boil till dissolved; then with a ladle, having 
 made a hole in the centre of the flour, mix the lard and hot water well 
 together, and pour about one pint, or a little less, into the flour, and 
 with a wooden spoon mix the flour and the water containing the lard 
 well together; and after you have partly mixed it with the spoon, then 
 use your hands and thoroughly blend the dough, taking care to 
 mix it very stiff indeed, and if a little more water is needed use the 
 paste brush to moisten the remnants that did not mix in well; when 
 you have finished mixing the dough or paste, collect it into a lump and 
 wrap in a cloth which has been dipped in hot water and then wrung as 
 dry as possible, and let it remain wrapped in the cloth for about ten 
 minutes, which will cause it to become mellow. Then well mould it 
 together with both hands, making it as smooth as possible, and cut a 
 
RAISED PIE OF FOWL A L’ASPIC. 
 
 215 
 
 piece off (about one-fourth) and roll it out a little less than a quarter of 
 an inch in thickness, and cut it into a handsome oval shape, about eight 
 inches in length and five inches wide. The best way to do this is first to 
 cut out a piece of stiff paper of the exact size and shape needed, and 
 place this on the top of the paste when evenly rolled, and then cut out 
 the paste by the same serving to guide you ; then pinch up the edge 
 very thin, so as to make a border of about three-quarters of an 
 inch all round, then fix it upon a sheet of paper, with a little 
 yolk of egg spread over the centre of the paper. After this, mould 
 the remainder of the paste into a firm oblong piece, and roll it 
 out into a long piece sufficient in length to reach all round the 
 pie, and about seven inches high. Then spread the paste lengthways 
 before you, and having measured with a piece of string the length round 
 the bottom which you have prepared, you must have the paste which 
 is to form the upright part of the pie of the same length, and if you 
 now measure with a string you can mark with your knife the exact length. 
 Then cut on the slafit one end. off\ which should be the end on your left 
 side, and turn the paste over lengthways; do the same with the other 
 end, and then cut the top and bottom exactly even, and this will give 
 you a band that will go right round the bottom of the pie; and now 
 have by you three or four yolks of eggs, and dipping your finger in these, 
 egg all round the upright edge of the botto?n; then place the band in 
 position so that the ends of the band of paste meet exactly at the cen¬ 
 tral end of the pie. Then again dip your finger in the yolks of eggs, 
 and moisten with the same the two ends of the band, so as to join them 
 firmly together. The next thing to do is to form the pie into a hand¬ 
 some shape, so proceed as follows :—Place the left hand inside the pie 
 close to the upright border, and with the middle finger of the right hand 
 press tightly against the base of the upright band or side of the pie, so 
 as to bring the side as upright as possible, and then with the finger and 
 thumb slightly bend over the top rim of the pie, also smooth the centre 
 part of the upright band and bring it nicely into shape. Then with 
 your pie-pincers, after you have nicely and neatly joined the two ends of 
 the upright band, crimp neatly with your pincers all round the top edge 
 of the outside, also the inside; this must be done evenly and neatly, 
 
21 6 TO PREPARE THE FOWLS FOR THE RAISED PIE. 
 
 and, I might say, artistically. Then roll out together the trimmings (which 
 should from the first be kept in a damp cloth to keep them mellow) r 
 and roll them out in a long strip about as thick as a two-shilling piece 
 or so, that you can cut two strips from the same three-quarters of an 
 inch wide, which should be cut on the slant, so as to cause them to 
 join neatly at the ends of the pie ; then egg one side, and fix them 
 firmly at the base or bottom of the pie, and when both pieces are 
 neatly fixed, then with your pie-pincers crimp all round the same in a 
 slanting direction. After this, the trimmings of your paste should be 
 well moulded together, and then rolled out as thick as a shilling and 
 cut into strips about three-quarters of an inch wide, and then cut into 
 long diamond shapes, when they should be crimped with your knife,, 
 and made to look like leaves. Then make a handsome wreath with 
 them round the outside of the pie, which, previously to fixing on the 
 leaves should be well egged over with yolks of egg, with a few drops o? 
 half a teaspoonful of water to four yolks, which should be well mixed 
 together, and the side of the pie coated over with it (using an egg 
 brush for this purpose) ; then fix on the leaves, forming a wreath all 
 round, and when finished, with a small knife make a few holes through 
 the bottom, to prevent it rising ; afterwards, fill it nearly full of bran, 
 and place it in a cool oven to slowly bake, and when of a light brown 
 colour remove, and then with a camel’s hair glaze-brush mask over the 
 whole of the outside of the pie with salad oil, which will give it a good 
 and prepossessing appearance. When cold, empty out the bran, and it 
 is ready for filling. 
 
 Note .— In sticking on the leaves, be sure the yolk of egg is moist, 
 and that the leaves readily adhere ; and if it has become dry, give 
 the side another coating, and fix on the leaves as firmly as possible. 
 
 To Prepare the Fowls for the Raised Pie. — Take two 
 boned fowls, and cut them in two lengthways right through the back 
 and the centre of the breast. Then take three pounds of pork sausage- 
 meat, which pound well in the mortar for about ten minutes, when add 
 to the same the following items :—One pound of streaky bacon, cut in dice, 
 a small bottle of truffles cut in small dice, a teaspoonful of herbaceous 
 mixture, a little cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of salt, and about 
 
FRENCH PIE OF PIGEONS A L’ASPIC. 
 
 217 
 
 twenty canister mushrooms chopped fine, together with two ounces of 
 shred gelatine which has been in soak for ten minutes in a quart of cold 
 water, and six yolks of eggs. Mix these well together with the sausage- 
 meat ; then take the four halves of fowl, and, having divided half the 
 sausage-meat in four equal parts, place one part in each piece of fowl, 
 which neatly make into a roll, and, when the four halves are done, 
 arrange them in a suitable size stewpan and embed them in the other 
 half of the sausage-meat, covering the pieces of fowl with a portion of 
 the same, and pouring over this one pint of good stock; then bake the 
 same in an oven of steady heat for about two hours, when the stewpan 
 should be taken out of the oven and placed to get cold as soon as 
 possible; and, if wanted for the same day, place it in a tub with some 
 ice round the stewpan, and when cold fill the raised pie case with the 
 fowl, which should be cut up and embedded in the prepared sausage- 
 meat with a few sliced truffles; then round the outer edge of the pie 
 arrange a border of croutons of aspic jelly, cut in a triangular shape, 
 and some chopped aspic in the centre, with a couple of silver skew T ers at 
 each end ornamented with cockscombs, truffles, and large mushrooms, 
 and after it is placed upon a silver dish, chopped aspic jelly should be 
 placed round it, also a few croutons to match with those round the top 
 border, when it is ready to serve. 
 
 Raised Pies of Preserved Game a l’Aspic. —Make a handsome 
 raised pie the same size as the above, and fill it in with preserved game, 
 both of pheasants and partridges, or any other kind of game. They 
 can also be filled in with a good clear gravy a l’essence, then in all 
 particulars finished as the above. And they can be served at any time 
 of the year, owing to the great perfection with which the art of pre¬ 
 serving game has been brought. 
 
 French Pie of Pigeons a l’Aspic. —Make a short paste as 
 follows :—Two pounds of sifted flour, twelve ounces of butter, four 
 yolks of eggs, and three parts of a pint of water. Rub the butter into 
 the flour, then make it into a pile with a space in the centre; in 
 this place the four yolks of eggs, also a little salt; then pour in the 
 water, about half a pint at first, and mix together, and if too firm add 
 a little more water, so as to make a nice firm, mellow paste, which 
 
2 l8 
 
 FRENCH PIE OF PIGEONS A L'ASPIC. 
 
 should rest under a damp cloth for ten minutes. Then take a French 
 pie mould, which is made both of copper and tin, and for which see 
 illustrations in the First Number of this work. See that the mould is 
 dry and very clean, and then rub over the whole of the inside 
 with some clean lard which has been partly melted. Then make 
 the paste into a round ball, and then roll it out into an oval 
 shape sufficient in size to fill or line the mould ; then gently gather 
 up the outside edge, and neatly place it in the centre of the mould, and 
 with your hands expand the paste so as uniformly to cover the inside 
 of the same thickness, which should be fully a quarter of an inch thick 
 all over the mould ; and take care you make no holes in the paste, 
 and that you bring up the paste so that it shows fully half an inch above 
 the top rim of the mould, and by gentle pressure, that the whole of the 
 indentations of the mould (caused by its shape) have been well filled 
 in, so as to show well the shape of the mould when the pie has been 
 baked. This part accomplished, cut some firm fat bacon, about as 
 thick as a shilling, in slices, and line the inside of the mould with the 
 same. Then take five boned pigeons, cut off the pinions and the feet, 
 and prepare two pounds of sausage-meat, exactly the same as the raised 
 pie of fowl, chopping up the pigeon’s livers and mixing them with the 
 sausage-meat. Then cut each pigeon in two, and take two-thirds of the 
 prepared sausage-meat, which divide in ten portions ; place in each half 
 of the pigeons one part, make each into a ball, and with the remainder 
 of the prepared sausage-meat embed them and fill up the mould. 
 After which mix a few drops of water with the yolk of an egg, and with 
 this slightly moisten the inside of the top border. Then gather together 
 the remainder of the pie paste, roll this into an oval shape a quarter of 
 an inch thich, then cut it to fit the top of the pie; and then fix it by 
 the pressure of your finger and thumb to the projecting rim at the 
 top of the pie mould, which should be made to adhere together as 
 if one piece, and with your small knife trim off evenly any little 
 rough part which may show; after which crimp it round with the pie 
 pincers to make it look well, and show an ornamental border. Then 
 egg over the top, and make a hole in the centre of about half an inch 
 in diameter, and bake in a steady oven for two hours. Then, while 
 
GALANTINE OF FOWL, WITH TRU FLES A LA ASPIC. 2ig 
 
 baking, smash up in the mortar the carcasses and bones from the 
 pigeons, and cover them with a quart of good stock, to which add a 
 wineglass of sherry and one ounce of gelatine, and let gently simmer 
 for about one hour. And when the pie is baked, fill up the inside 
 by pouring in this gravy, and place where it will soon become cold. 
 And this pie should be made the day previous to when it will be 
 required. When preparing to send to table the piece from the top 
 should be cut away close to the border, which space should be filled 
 up with chopped aspic jelly, and croutons of aspic, cut in a trian¬ 
 gular form, and placed round the chopped aspic jelly, the points 
 outwards. It should also, when on its dish, be garnished at its base 
 the same as for the raised pie of fowl. When it is finished and 
 ready for table, using as many as two or four silver skewers, garnished. 
 
 Pigeon Pie in a China Dish a la Anglaise. —This pie 
 should be made in all its details, as described in page 152, and 
 when filled up with its hot gravy it should be placed in the larder to 
 become quite cold, and should be made the day previous to when it is 
 required ; it should be garnished with a few croutons of aspic jelly, also 
 a little chopped aspic jelly on the top, also a few sprays of fresh parsley. 
 Then a napkin, nicely folded, should be placed upon another suitable 
 size dish, and the pie placed upon it, and with a few sprays of parsley 
 placed round its base, when it is ready for table. Use silver skewers as 
 for the raised pie, nicely ornamented. 
 
 Veal and Ham Pie a la Anglaise. —Prepare this pie also in a 
 large china dish, and if for a supper or breakfast fill in the same fuller 
 than if for a dinner ; prepare it the same as described for the veal and 
 ham pie in the number for March, but cover it with puff paste 
 instead of short paste—the same as for the pigeon pie in page 152, 
 and when dishing up for table finish in the same manner, taking care to 
 prepare it the day previous, and use plenty of good gravy, which, when 
 cold, will be in a firm jelly. Garnish with silver skewers, as for the 
 /aised pie. 
 
 Galantine of Fowl with Truffles a la Aspic. —Order as 
 large a fowl as you can obtain, or, if you want it particularly good order 
 a very fine capon, boned, and three pounds of pork sausage meat; which 
 
220 
 
 SCOLLOPS OF SALMON EN MAYONNAISE. 
 
 prepare in the following manner: Cut a dozen truffles into dice, shape 
 as neat as you can, and chop up a pint tin of preserved champignons, 
 (not too small), and one pound of mild streaky bacon cut into dice 
 shapes of about one-quarter of an inch square, and about half of an ox 
 tongue (the pointed half) into the same size dice shapes. Place these 
 on a large dish, with the sausage-meat. Sprinkle over the same an 
 ounce of gelatine which has soaked in a pint of cold water for ten 
 minutes, also a teaspoonful of herbaceous mixture, four yolks of eggs, 
 and a little cayenne pepper and salt, but it should be a small quantity 
 of salt, as you have the salted tongue and bacon to consider. Mix 
 these all well together, and place inside your large fowl or capon, which 
 make nicely into shape, cutttng off the legs above the joint, and forcing 
 the remaining part inside the fowl; then tie it up tightly in a cloth 
 dipped in w r arm water and well wrung out. When tied up, place it in 
 some boiling second stock, and again bring to the boil quickly, and let 
 gently simmer or slowly boil for two hours, taking care to watch the 
 same, and see that it does boil that time; then take it out and care¬ 
 fully remove it from the cloth, which should be washed in warm water 
 and wrung out ; then again place the fowl in the same and tie it tightly 
 up, taking great care to keep the breast upwards. Then place it between 
 two dishes, with a fourteen or seven pound weight in the centre of the 
 top dish, and let it remain till the next day; and when needed for 
 dishing, remove it from the cloth and nicely glaze with some best glaze; 
 when place upon a suitable size silver dish and garnish a l’aspic, and 
 using silver skewers after the same style as for the raised pie of fowl. 
 
 Galantine of Turkey Poult. —Order a fine turkey poult to be 
 boned, and three pounds of sausage-meat, which prepare in all its 
 details the same as for the capon or large fowl described above, and, 
 when cooked and cold, glaze it and garnish it with aspic jelly as nearly 
 as possible to the preceding, including the ornamental silver skewers. 
 
 Scollops of Salmon en Mayonnaise. — Order a prime cut of a 
 split salmon of about three pounds weight, and, when preparing the same, 
 cut it crossways in three equal size pieces; then place each piece length¬ 
 ways before you, and cut it into equal size scollops less than a quarter of 
 an inch thick, and by holding your knife in a slanting direction (the central 
 
SCOLLOPS OF SALMON EN MAYONNAISE. 
 
 221 
 
 bone being removed) you can cut each scollop somewhat into the shape 
 of a well-proportioned pear when cut in two (and I refer to the inside part 
 of the pear), and with a very little after trimming you can, as near as 
 you wish, make each scollop to resemble that shape. As you cut them, 
 place them on a saute-pan, over the surface of which you have run a 
 little salad oil, and place them on the same with the thin end pointing 
 to the right, and they should be cut with great care and exactness, both 
 in thickness and in length and in form. When you have cut them all, 
 sprinkle a little white pepper and salt, mixed in equal quantities, upon 
 them, with a few spoonfuls of malt vinegar, and see you have sufficient 
 oil so as to prevent them from sticking; and then cover them with a 
 round of paper (oiled), and place them in an oven of good heat (but not 
 rash) for about seven minutes or less. They should be watched most 
 attentively, and when they show creamy and are firm to the touch of 
 your finger, you may be sure they are done; and if your saute-pan is 
 well tinned, as it ought to be, mix about half a gill of salad oil and a 
 gill of vinegar well together, and pour this over the scollops, and leave 
 them in this till the next day, or when you are going to dish them, when 
 proceed as follows:—Cut up the white hearts or inside of about four 
 cos lettuce as fine as possible, and place this in the centre of a suitable 
 size oval silver dish ; then peel a cucumber that is about the same 
 diameter throughout very thin and even, which cut into slices about as 
 thick as a shilling, which place leaning toward the border of the 
 top of the dish, but resting on the bottom, and on the top 
 of the lettuce dish the scollops, the thin point upward and coming 
 to your right hand. And let me here remark, the lettuce should be 
 slightly pressed down so as to give you a level surface to dish upon. 
 Then on this dish up your scollops of salmon, one leaning on the other 
 after the manner that cutlets are dished; and when finished strain 
 through a pointed tin sieve the oil and vinegar in which the scollops 
 became cold, adding to this a little more oil and vinegar, which pour 
 over the lettuces in the centre, then fill up the centre with one pint of 
 mayonnaise sauce, and round this place a few sprays of green tarragon, 
 and serve. And let me add, a couple of truffles, chopped very fine and 
 lightly sprinkled over the scollops, gives a recherchb appearance. 
 
222 
 
 GALANTINES OF SPRING CHICKENS. 
 
 Galantine of Saddle of Lamb a la Macedoine.—Order a first- 
 class saddle of lamb that shows fat on the surface, and when preparing 
 the same, cut through the under fillets and carefully remove the chine 
 bone; and after this, remove the bones from the chump end, taking care 
 not to cut through the skin; then prepare two pounds of sausage-meat 
 with truffles, chopped mushrooms, tongue, and streaky bacon cut in dice, 
 herbaceous mixture, cayenne, salt, yolks of eggs, and gelatine; mix well 
 together, the same as for the galantine of capon, and place the farce where 
 you took the bones from ; then, after securing the same with the flaps of 
 the saddle and the inner fillets, wrap up the saddle in a damp cloth very 
 tightly and securely, so that none of the farce inside can escape, and 
 braize the same in second stock for two and a half hours, which should 
 slowly but surely boil during that time ; then carefully remove the 
 same and take off the cloth, which should be washed, and if done as it 
 should be, re-tie the same tightly in its cloth, and the skin side 
 upwards; place it on a dish and put it in the larder, and let it 
 remain till the next day, when take it from the cloth, glaze it, 
 and garnish it in the following manner. Open a quart tin of bottoms 
 of French artichokes, and a pint tin of macedoine roots ; let the mace¬ 
 doine roots boil up for a minute in a quart of boiling water, when strain 
 them off, and add a little sugar and salt to them and a few spoonfuls of 
 liquid aspic jelly, and let the bottoms of the French artichokes braize 
 for a few moments in a gill of white stock with the juice of a lemon in 
 it, and a little sugar and salt. Then carefully remove them, and drain 
 them on to a sieve and fill them with equal quantities of macedoine 
 roots, and having placed the saddle of lamb on a suitable size dish, 
 place the fond of artichokes at equal distances round the saddle, with 
 a little chopped aspic between, and also a small crouton of aspic partly 
 resting on the same and partly on the dish ; then place a wreath of aspic 
 leaves down the centre of the saddle, with ornamented silver skewers 
 at each end, and it is ready to serve. 
 
 Galantines of Spring Chickens & la Bechemelle. — Order 
 three fine spring chickens to be boned, and with three pounds of pork 
 sausage-meat make a farce exactly the same as for the galantines of 
 capons. Then cut each boned chicken open from or down the back. 
 
BRAIZED RIBS OF SPICED BEEF A L’ASPIC. 223 
 
 arrange the fillets and under-fillets so that they are fixed in the centre 
 of each. Then divide the prepared sausage-meat into three equal parts 
 and make each part into a round ball, which place in the centre of each 
 boned chicken, and cover the same up with the chicken so as to cover 
 the farce; then tie each one tightly up in a cloth or old napkin, and place 
 them in some boiling second stock sufficient to cover them ; let them 
 boil in this for one hour and a quarter, and be attentive to see that they 
 heep gently boiling for that time; and when done take them gently 
 up, untie them, and have the cloths washed ; and if to your satisfaction 
 tie them up very tightly, and place them to become cold in the larder 
 till the next day. And prepare a dozen dariole moulds as follows :—Three 
 parts fill them with a ragout financiere, washing the same very clean, 
 and drying these on a clean cloth, and cutting the cockscombs in two 
 and the truffles in very thin slices, and selecting the smallest cham¬ 
 pignons ; then fill them up with some brilliant aspic jelly, and place in the 
 larder. Then prepare sufficient bechemelle sauce, taking due care the 
 same is sufficiently stiff by adding a little soaked gelatine to the same 
 when reducing it. And when dishing or about to dish the chickens 
 take them from the cloths, and having melted your bechemelle sauce and 
 added a little liquid aspic to give a gloss to the same, and brought it to 
 its proper point, fix each chicken firmly on a kitchen fork and dip them 
 neatly into the sauce so as to well mask them, placing them on dishes 
 as you do them. Then garnish them with truffles in a light manner, 
 leaving a space in the centre of each for a garnished silver skewer. 
 Place the three on a suitable size silver dish, and round the chickens 
 place on each side your darioles a la financiere, and between them and 
 the chickens some nicely chopped aspic jelly ; and before sending away, 
 with a camel’s hair glaze brush mask the ornamentation of truffles with 
 liquid aspic, but not warm, and place an ornamental silver skewer in the 
 centre of each, and the chickens are ready. 
 
 Braized Ribs of Spiced Beef a l’Aspic. —Take four ribs 
 of a prime cut of beef, and remove the bones entirely from the same. 
 Then cut a piece of fat bacon about four inches square into strips one 
 quarter of an inch square, cut from the whole length of the bacon. 
 After which, chop up a double handful of parsley with eight chalots very 
 
224 
 
 BRAIZED RIBS OF SPICED BEEF A L’ASPIC. 
 
 fine, and mix with these two good tablespoonfuls of herbaceous 
 mixture; then take the strips of bacon and roll the cut strips one at a time 
 in the same; then with what the cooks call a daubing-pin (a kind 
 of large larding-pin) make a hole with the same through the lean parts 
 of the beef and also through the fat—these pieces of bacon should 
 be placed in the beef as regularly as possible — and place the pieces 
 of bacon (each piece to be well coated with the parsley, chalots, 
 and herbaceous mixture) into the beef in the following manner:— 
 Make the hole first with the daubing-needle right through the beef, then 
 bring it back and fix a piece of bacon in the needle, which is made to hold 
 the bacon nicely and tightly, then force it again through the hole made, 
 and leave each pieee of bacon in the beef, and so use up the strips of 
 bacon. Then pound in the mortar one ounce of saltpetre with half a 
 pound of salt and about two ounces of sugar; sprinkle these when well 
 mixed over the lean, and that part of the beef where you removed the 
 bones from; after this roll up the piece of beef as tightly as you can, run 
 two or three large skewers right through the beef when rolled, and 
 tie it up with tape as compact and tightly as possible ; and on the next 
 day place in a stewpan or stock-pot sufficient water to braize the beef in, 
 adding to the same three onions, two heads of celery, four carrots, a 
 large bunch of thyme and parsley, a dozen bay leaves, and a good 
 handful of all kinds of mixed spice, and wffien the water boils place 
 the beef in the same ; and any pieces of fat you have, cut it up small 
 (say two pounds), and place this with the beef, which will cause it to 
 be more mellow when cooked. Let the beef very gently boil for three 
 hours, and leave it just as it is in its own braize till the next day; and 
 when about to dish it up, lift it out of the braize and carefully untie it, 
 and remove the wooden skewers, place plated ones in their place, 
 and nicely trim it and glaze it the same as you would a ham. Then 
 cut up some lettuce, and mix them with some small salad, which place 
 in the dish, upon which the beef is to be served, and place the beef 
 upon it. Then round this salad place some chopped aspic jelly, also 
 some bold croutons of aspic, and cut a thin piece off the beef, so as to 
 show its quality, and about four silver skewers, ornamented, round the 
 sides, with a good pile of horseradish in the centre, and it is ready. 
 
LAMB CUTLETS A LA VICTORIA. 225 
 
 Roast Haunch of Lamb a l’Anglaise. —Saw off the shank bone, 
 and trim off any brown spots of skin; then rub the surface with 
 butter, and place it down to a clear fire to very slowly roast for two 
 hours; and remember that lamb should be thoroughly well roasted, 
 but should not be scorched or burnt in any way, and when finished 
 should be of a light-brown tint, and so give it your best attention, and 
 do not let it go too close to the fire ; when taken from the fire shake a 
 little finely-chopped parsley over the same, and send a couple of boats 
 of warm mint sauce to table with it. Dish it upon salad, with aspic jelly 
 chopped and croutons of aspic round it, and a ruffle round the leg 
 bone, and it is ready. 
 
 LIST OF COLD ENTREES 
 
 (to be continued) 
 
 WHICH WE RECOMMEND AS HIGHLY SUITABLE FOR WEDDING BREAKFASTS, 
 PUBLIC LUNCHEONS, BALL SUPPERS, AND EVENING PARTIES. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets a la Victoria. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets, au Tomate, a la Zingari. 
 
 Chaud Froid of Lamb Sweetbreads a la Financiere. 
 
 Petits Pains of Fat Livers h. la Moderne. 
 
 Petits Pains of Lobsters a la Cardinal. 
 
 Petits Pains of Fowl and Tongue h la Rein. 
 
 Canapees of Prawns a la Prince. 
 
 Salade of Lobsters en Mayonnaise k 1’Aspic. 
 
 Salade of Fillets of Soles it la Cardinal. 
 
 Petits Boudins of Fowl a la Bechemelle. 
 
 Petits Vol au Vents of Fowl aux Truffes. 
 
 Canapees of Trout a la Moderne, 
 
 9 
 
 Lamb Cutlets a la Victoria. —Prepare the cutlets the same as 
 for Mutton Cutlets a la Pompadour. Take all care they are not over¬ 
 done. About three-quarters of an hour will cook them; leave in their 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS A LA ZINGARI. 
 
 own braize till next day if possible, when neatly trim them and then 
 glaze them, and arrange them as you do them on a saute-pan in uniform 
 order. When cold, with a very clean camel’s hair brush coat them over 
 with liquid aspic jelly ; and to make them look very nice, they should be 
 thus masked twice over ; and when quite cold, trimmed with your small 
 knife, and dished on a border of aspic jelly, fluted on the top, garnished 
 with young peas, tossed in about three spoonfuls of liquid aspic jelly, 
 the base garnished with neatly-cut croutons of aspic, with a little of the 
 same chopped between the croutons, and they are ready. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets a la Zingari. — Prepare the necks of lamb as the 
 above, but they must not be trimmed till after they are braized, so prepare 
 them as follows :—After the chine bone and the tops of the ribs have 
 been removed, wrap each neck in half a sheet of paper, then neatly fold 
 it in the same, and tie it up compactly with some twine. Do this with as 
 many as you need. Then chop up the fat trimmings and the chine 
 bones, and add a few stock-pot vegetables to these. Cover with suffi¬ 
 cient water in which to braize the same, bring to the boil, then place the 
 tied-up necks in this, and let slowly boil for about one hour, when try 
 them with your fork, and if that will easily pass through the same 
 you may rely they are done. Then place them in the larder till the 
 next day to become cold ; but if required for to-day’s use, they should 
 have a little ice placed on the dish with them, and made to become 
 cold as quickly as possible ; and in the meantime open a pint or quart 
 tin of puree of tomatoes, which reduce over the fire with a little veloute 
 and a little soaked gelatine (one ounce) ; add a little glaze, sugar, and 
 cayenne pepper, and half a gill of malt vinegar. Let these reduce to a 
 stiff paste, and place it in a kitchen-pan to become cold, and while 
 doing so, trim your cutlets into a neat form and all of equal size ; then 
 make the tomato paste warm, and dip one side of the cutlets in it, 
 and arrange them on a saute-pan as you do them, to show you do not 
 mask them on the wrong side, which if you did you could not dish 
 them up properly. When all are done, they should appear uniform in 
 size, and not have more tomato paste on one than on another. Put 
 them in a cold place till the tomato paste has become quite firm; then 
 mask them with liquid aspic, but not hot, and as you do this place them 
 
CHAUD FROID OF LAMB’S SWEETBREADS. 22 J 
 
 back in their former position. Then, when set, mask or glaze with aspic 
 again, melted but not warm; do them twice over, and when cold dish 
 them on an aspic jelly border, or a carved rice border, and serve in the 
 centre a macedoine of mixed vegetables tossed in a few spoonfuls of 
 liquid aspic, which will enable you to pile up the vegetables and make 
 them thereby look all the handsomer. Garnish the base with a few 
 croutons of aspic, and they are ready. 
 
 Chaud Froid of Lamb’s Sweetbreads a la Financiere.— 
 
 Take sixteen heart sweetbreads of lamb of the same size, or as nearly so 
 
 as possible. Let them boil slowly in two quarts of water, with a pat of 
 
 butter in it, for half an hour. Then strain and place them in cold water, 
 
 and when they are cold trim and cut from them all the pith that usually 
 
 adheres to them and any surplus fat. Then dry them on a cloth, and 
 
 warm about half a pint of well-reduced bechemelle sauce, make the 
 
 same warm, and add to it about one gill of aspic lukewarm. Stir the 
 
 two gently together, placing your stewpan, in which is the sauce, into 
 
 another with a little ice in it • a small wooden spoon is best to stir it 
 
 with. When you see that the sauce is beginning to set remove it from 
 
 the ice, and place it on the hot-plate for a couple of seconds. Then 
 
 stir it gently together, so as to bring it to the masking point , which 
 
 requires a little critical skill and attention ; and the way to test the sauce 
 
 is to place one of the lamb’s sweetbreads on your fork so as to keep the 
 
 smooth part outward. Then dip the bread into the sauce, and if it 
 
 nicely covers or masks the same, such is the point you need; and so 
 
 go on masking the others till all are thus prepared, and if you find your 
 
 sauce become too thick warm the stewpan for a second or two again on 
 
 the hot-plate, and again stir till you have again the right point. Proceed 
 
 thus till all are done; and they should be neatly done, so as to appear 
 
 uniform in size. After they are masked they should be ornamented 
 
 with truffles cut in very thin slices, and then into leaves, half moons 
 
 and little dots, by which you can form some simple design on the centre 
 
 of each one. They should be then removed on to a clean saute-pan, 
 
 trimming each round the base as you remove them, and afterwards 
 
 masking them with liquid aspic jelly, using a camel’s hair brush for this 
 
 purpose, and it is best to do them twice over. They should be dished 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 
 
 PETITS PAINS OF LOBSTERS A LA CARDINAL. 
 
 on an aspic jelly border or a carved rice border, with a financiere 
 ragout tossed in a little liquid aspic; garnish the base with chopped 
 aspic jelly, and on this a few croutons, and they are ready. 
 
 Petits Pains of Fat Livers a la Moderne. —Open a tin of 
 preserved fat livers. Wash them free from any grease, and cut them 
 into dice shapes of one-eighth of an inch square. Then cut four 
 truffles, not quite so large, and chop a few mushrooms (preserved ones'). 
 Then take half a pint of Espagnol sauce; reduce this with a glass of 
 sherry, and add a bit of best glaze about as big as a walnut when 
 reduced to its original consistency, then lightly stir in the liver, truffles, 
 and mushrooms, and turn these into a small size saute-pan or stewpan. 
 Make this smooth on the top, and it should be about three-quarters of 
 an inch thick ; and now place it to become cold upon the ice. Then 
 melt about one pint of bright aspic jelly, and select eighteen dariole 
 moulds ; chop two truffles fine, and place in each dariole mould a 
 teaspoonful of aspic, then a little chopped truffle, and when the jelly 
 has set add about a spoonful more, and when this has set cut out as 
 many cork-shape pieces of the prepared fat liver as you have dariole 
 moulds. The best way is to select a cutter from your long box of tin 
 cutters that will fit the dariole moulds, leaving a slight margin, and dip 
 this cutter in hot water ; cut out one of your cork-shape pieces of 
 prepared fat liver, and place it upright in one of the dariole moulds, 
 and if there is a margin left, such is what you need ; and fill up this 
 margin with aspic jelly, and you will see at once what is needed, and 
 finish the others the same, using the remainder of the liver in the same, 
 forming it into the proper shape and thickness. They can be dished 
 plain in the dish with an Italian salad in the centre, and chopped aspic 
 and croutons round them and one in middle, or on carved rice borders, 
 or on aspic borders, and should be turned out one at a time in warm 
 water, the same as a jelly. 
 
 Petits Pains of Lobster a la Cardinal.— Take the flesh from 
 a fine lobster and cut it in small dice, about an eighth of an inch 
 square. Rub half a gill of live spawn through a hair sieve, with a 
 tablespoonful of cold water. Then place three parts of a pint of veloute 
 sauce on the fire with a piece of glaze (best glaze) twice the size of a 
 
CANAPfiES OF PRAWNS A LA PRINCE. 
 
 229 
 
 walnut with it, and a couple of tablespoonfuls of anchovy, and a little 
 cayenne pepper. Let boil well together; then mix in the cut-up 
 lobster, and let it boil; then turn it into a small saute-pan or suitably- 
 sized stewpan, so that it will be, when level, about an inch thick, when 
 it should be placed to get cold. Then prepare eighteen dariole moulds, 
 plain or ornamental; run half a spoonful of aspic jelly in each, and when 
 this is setting sprinkle a little red spawn (which has been rubbed through 
 a wire sieve) in each mould, also a little chopped truffle; then cut out 
 the lobster in the same shape exactly as for the Petits Pains of Fat 
 Liver, and fill up in the same manner with aspic jelly as the preceding, 
 and dish up in the same manner. 
 
 Petits Pains of Poulet a la Rein. —Cut the white meat from 
 two boiled fowls, boiled the day previous, into dice the eighth of an inch 
 square, with a few slices of tongue; also a couple of large truffles, and 
 six preserved mushrooms, in like manner. Then place an ounce of 
 gelatine in cold water to soak, and in the meantime place one pint of 
 veloute sauce on the fire to reduce one-half, then add your one ounce 
 •of gelatine and a little cream (one gill); boil these well together, then 
 stir in your fowls and tongue, mushrooms, and truffles, and put this in 
 •a suitable-size saute-pan, the same as for the petits pains of lobster; and, 
 while getting cold, prepare eighteen dariole moulds; garnish with a 
 teaspoonful of aspic jelly in each, and one dot of truffle in the centre, 
 and a few chopped sprinkled round, then a little more aspic; and 
 when this has set, and the chicken is firm enough to cut out, proceed to 
 finish exactly the same as the others. But when dishing up, garnish 
 with young peas or asparagus peas, or with mushrooms tossed in a few 
 spoonfuls of aspic jelly ; and they are ready. 
 
 Canapees of Prawns a la Prince. —Make one pound of flour 
 into short paste, rubbing into the same six ounces of butter, two yolks of 
 «ggs; mix with about one gill of water. It should be a tiice firm paste ; 
 then cut out the same in round pieces, the same as for the soufflees of 
 fowl in this number, and finish them exactly in the same way, filling 
 them with some baked rice mixed with a little chopped suet (generally 
 kept for this purpose in most kitchens), or a little fried in fat will do. 
 Bake them of a light-fawn colour, and, when baked, empty out the rice, 
 
2j0 
 
 SALAD OF LOBSTER EN MAYONNAISE A. L’ASriC. 
 
 and be most particular that not one grain of rice is left in any of them. 
 Then, having picked the prawns, split them in two lengthwise, then 
 again, each half in two crosswise; and, when all are cut in this way, mix 
 a little chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives, which have been chopped 
 very fine, placed in a pointed sieve, and dipped in boiling water, and 
 then dried in a cloth, that is to say, all moisture squeezed from them. 
 Mix them with some mayonnaise sauce, in which has been mixed some 
 whipt aspic. Then stir lightly into this sauce sufficient fine prawns 
 (about four dozen), and fill your croustades with them. They should 
 not be filled too full, and when filled, a little chopped aspic should be 
 placed on the top, with a sprinkling of red spawn, freshly made by 
 rubbing through a wire sieve, and then neatly dished on napkins, 
 and garnished with a few sprays of chervil or tarragon, when they are 
 ready. You will require eighteen croustade cases. 
 
 There are at the present day a great variety of excellent dariole moulds , 
 highly suitable for this kind of dish, but knowing that tartlet-tins are to 
 be found in most kitchens, I have thought it prudent to name and 
 use what is most likely to be obtained; and, I will add, I certainly 
 think it best to use one kind of fish, fowl, or game, for these modern 
 dishes, instead of several. 
 
 Canapees of Lobster. —Take two hen lobsters, and remove the 
 shells carefully, so as not to break the flesh, and cut through ; standing 
 the same edgewise, and just cutting through the claws with your chop¬ 
 ping knife slightly, when you can readily remove the same without 
 breaking it. The flesh of the lobsters should be cut into dice a 
 quarter of an inch square, and mixed with mayonnaise sauce, with a 
 little whipped aspic in it. Then fill the croustades as for the prawns, 
 and finish and dish in the same manner, but without the tarragon, 
 chervil, and chives, but with a little anchovy sauce. 
 
 Salad of Lobster en Mayonnaise a l’Aspic. —Having prepared 
 some aspic jelly stock (for which see the first number of this work), 
 wash the same as particularly as for sweet jelly, no particle of oil or 
 fat being left upon the same; then place about one gill to melt in a 
 plain mould, and then place it upon the ice to test its strength or 
 stiffness, and be very particular on this pointy for it should be a good 
 
REGARDING THE JELLY-BAG. 
 
 231 
 
 stiff stock, and while the stock is becoming set upon the ice, have the 
 aspic jelly-bag washed very clean, also the pans to run the jelly into. 
 Then cut up a small bunch of chervil and tarragon, or about half a 
 handful, and break six fresh eggs into a two-quart stewpan, taking care 
 to smell each one as you do so, for fear of a musty one, also to wash 
 the shells of the eggs before breaking them, which place with the eggs 
 as you break them. And these little matters arranged, try the con¬ 
 sistency of the aspic jelly, and if it shows to be about twice the con¬ 
 sistency of the ordinary jelly stock it will do to perfection. Then 
 place about two quarts in a four-quart stewpan, and place your tarragon 
 and chervil in with the stock, with a tablespoonful of peppercorns, and 
 a gill of tarragon vinegar, a little salt, also a spoonful of sugar and half 
 a tumbler of sherry. Then place them on the hot-plate, and when the 
 stock is only lukewarm, beat up for a couple of minutes the six whole 
 eggs and their shells, and then add your warm stock a little at a time, 
 beating the two well together with a wire whisk gently but thoroughly, 
 and then bring it slowly to the boil, and taste the same, and if nicely 
 palatable it will do ; if not, add a little more sugar, salt, and tarragon 
 vinegar, and taste it again, and if right stir it gently till it boils. Then 
 draw it aside, so that it will keep hot but not boil, and leave it, say ten 
 minutes, beside the hot-plate with the cover on, but where you feel certain 
 it cannot boil. At the expiration of the time mentioned look at it again, 
 and with a plated tablespoon take some up and critically examine it, and 
 if the eggs have separated from the jelly and you can see the jelly shows 
 brilliant between the separated eggs be sure it will do. 
 
 And now a word REGARDING THE JELLY-BAG, which should 
 be most thoroughly washed in several waters ; and when the last shows 
 quite clear (and let the water be warm) you may be sure it will do; take care 
 also the bag is not musty. And assured on these points your jelly is sure 
 to run through the bag brilliantly. And the best thing to do is to pour 
 about one pint into the bag at first, and let it run a little while; then with 
 a very clear wineglass let a little run into it, and then hold it up to 
 the light, and if brilliant it will do, if not let it run a little longer, and 
 again look at it, and when it shows bright pour the remainder into the 
 bag gently, and pour back what has already run out; and when running 
 
232 
 
 REGARDING THE JELLY-BAG. 
 
 to your satisfaction place a very clean pan beneath, and cover the jelly 
 stand with a tablecloth to keep it warm till all has run through. Should 
 you require double the quantity of aspic jelly, use double the quantity 
 of material, and so on if you need a four-fold quantity. And 
 while this is going on take the meat from two hen lobsters (or one of 
 the two should be hens), and be particular to preserve the coral, as it is 
 called, which is the boiled spawn. And by pressing each tail, which 
 you have taken from the body, in the end of your rubber, and pressing 
 your hand tightly, you will hear the shell crack, when the flesh from the 
 same can be readily removed. Then hold the claws on their edge, and 
 gently cut through the shell, when the flesh from the claw will come away 
 whole, which, if the shell was stricken on its flat side it is most likely you 
 would have smashed the flesh in the claw, and regarding the smaller 
 parts of the claw, crack them gently and remove the flesh. Then 
 wash the spawn taken from the hen lobster, and place it to dry in 
 the screen for about ten minutes, when rub it through a fine wire sieve 
 which place aside for the present. Then cut up in neat and thin slices, 
 the two tails, and by cutting them with a very sharp knife on the slant, 
 the pieces thus cut will show fuller than if cut straight down ; you can 
 also cut the claws in pieces to match those of the tails, and make in 
 a pile any parts or remnants, then cut up two cos lettuces (the white 
 parts), as fine as possible, and wash very cleanly some small salad. After 
 these little matters have been attended to, place six eggs on the fire in 
 cold water to boil, tapping the eggs together to hear if any are cracked, 
 which, if such is the case, they will give forth what might be termed a 
 cracked sound, which you can instantly tell by comparing it with the 
 sound that comes from tapping two eggs, neither of which are cracked. 
 The eggs should boil exactly ten minutes, and then be placed in cold 
 water. And here let me state, if eggs, which are 7ieeded for salads, boil 
 longer than ten minutes, and then are cut in tivofor salads, they will show 
 a black rim round the yolk, which is improper; and, furthermore, the yolk 
 will lose its bright colour and become pappy. You will also require the 
 half of a cucumber, thinly peeled. Then take a plain quart Charlotte 
 mould, with a pipe in it, such as you will see in the last page of illustrations 
 in the first number, and it is the last mould but one on the page, and is 
 
SALAD OF FILLETS OF SOLES A L’ASPIC. 
 
 233 
 
 marked gateaux mould; well, take one similar in shape and size, and place 
 it in a pan with a little ice round it, and place in it two tablespoonfuls 
 -of liquid aspic, on which when cold place a little lobster spawn, at an 
 equal distance apart (say four slight piles), and on this spread a little 
 small salad, on which place a row of slices of lobster, each piece slightly 
 leaning on the other; then add a little more liquid aspic, about two table¬ 
 spoonfuls, and when this has set add some more, sufficient to cover the 
 lobster. Then on this place a little of your cut lettuce, mixed with a little 
 fine salad, over which sprinkle a little of your prepared red spawn, and on 
 this place, when cut in thin slices, two of your hard-boiled eggs, which 
 should be cut crosswise, and cover with liquid aspic jelly; and when 
 cold or set, place upon the same another row of cut lobster, and so 
 proceed till you have filled the mould and used all the lobster and 
 eggs and coral, also a portion of the lettuce and cucumber in very thin 
 slices. And when it is firmly set, turn it out by dipping the mould in 
 warm water, when place a row of sliced cucumber round its base, 
 and place the remainder of the cut lettuce in a kitchen basin, pour over 
 it two spoonfuls of salad oil, and the same of malt vinegar, and cut a 
 beetroot (half a one), after you have peeled it, in small dice, about one 
 quarter of an inch square, which add to the salad; nearly fill the 
 hole in the centre with this, and then fill up with mayonnaise sauce, and 
 garnish with a few sprays of green chervil and the same of tarragon, 
 and it is ready to serve. For mayonnaise sauce, see the Index in the 
 March number. 
 
 Salad of Fillets of Soles k l’Aspic. —Take the fillets of three 
 small soles, about a wineglassful of live spawn, and the fillets of two 
 medium-sized whitings. Then make a little panada as follows:— 
 Place in a stewpan the half of a half pint of white stock, one ounce 
 and a half of butter ; let these boil, then stir into the same three ounces 
 of sifted flour; stir them in on the hot-plate for a couple of minutes, 
 then add one whole egg and one yolk, and stir these in also over the 
 fire for a couple of minutes (not to cook the eggs, but to partly set 
 them); then place on a plate to get cold, covering with a small round 
 of buttered paper; then scrape off the flesh from the four fillets of 
 whitings, and well pound these in a mortar, and rub through a wire 
 
234 
 
 SALAD OF FILLETS OF SOLES k L’ASITC. 
 
 sieve, which place on a plate; add to this an equal quantity of the 
 panada which you placed to get cold, and about one ounce of butter, 
 then rub through a hair sieve the live spawn, adding a few drops of 
 water as you do so to facilitate its passing through; and now well mix 
 together the whitings, the panada, and the butter with two yolks of eggs, 
 a little salt and cayenne, and a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce. When 
 thoroughly well mixed roll a little piece in a dust of flour, and if after 
 letting the same boil in some water it feels about as firm as custard 
 when baked, it will do. Then stir in the spawn with another yolk of 
 egg, and let all the ingredients be well blended together by mixing well 
 in the mortar. Then spread out the fillets of soles, and cut them of 
 the same size, and arrange them close together, when spread over 
 them the quenelle of whitings on the fillets about as thick as a two- 
 shilling piece; then roll each one up evenly and neatly, and when 
 all are done tie them up in four equal sized pieces of buttered 
 paper, and place four fillets of soles in each piece, which should be 
 rolled over two or three times, and afterwards tied tightly at each 
 end with some string, placed in a suitable sized stewpan, covered 
 with some second stock, and let slowly boil for fifteen minutes, and 
 let them remain in their liquor till the next day. They should be 
 then washed and cut in two, so as to show the scroll of pink 
 inside. After this place a plain mould with a pipe in it in a pan 
 with some ice in it, or rather say round the mould ; then place in 
 the mould about three tablespoonfuls of liquid aspic jelly; in this 
 place a little small salad, and when set arrange eight pieces of fillets 
 of soles, the red showing outward, and let each piece slightly overlap 
 or lean upon the first piece placed in the mould; then, when you 
 have placed one row, add a couple of spoonfuls of aspic jelly, which w r hen 
 set will keep the pieces of sole in their proper position, then shred 
 a lettuce (the white part) very fine, and place some of this at the 
 back of the soles, after which cover the soles and the shred lettuce 
 with liquid aspic, just enough to cover them will do ; and when this 
 has set add a little more shred lettuce , and proceed with another row 
 as at first, and so on till you have built up three rows, each finished 
 as the first row, and the mould filled with aspic jelly. When dishing 
 
PETITS BOUDINS OF FOWL A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 235 
 
 up, turn out the contents of the mould by dipping it in warm water; 
 then, when on its dish, chop a little aspic rather fine and place round 
 its base, also a few small croutons of aspic jelly on this. Then mix 
 sufficient shred lettuce and beetroot with a little oil, vinegar, and pepper, 
 and salt to half fill the centre of the mould, which fill up with mayon¬ 
 naise sauce, and place round the top a few sprays of tarragon, and the 
 same of endive, and garnish the base with a thinly-peeled sliced 
 cucumber, dished en miretofi , when it is ready to serve. 
 
 Petits Boudins of Fowl a la Toulouse. —Take the fillets 
 from two large fowls, the upper and under fillets, and any little portions 
 of white meat to be obtained from the carcass; scrape these with a 
 knife from the skin, and well pound them in the mortar, and then 
 rub them through a wire quenelle sieve ; when done place back in the 
 mortar, adding a little salt and cayenne pepper, and then gently but well 
 mix with the pounded fowl about half a pint of good double cream. 
 When well mixed, butter a plain darole mould and put a little into the 
 same, then let it simmer in a small stewpan with about a half-inch of 
 water round it for about four minutes; then try its consistency, and if 
 about the same as a firmly baked custard, or a little firmer, it will do; or in 
 other words it should be a light but very compact body. Then model it 
 with two plated tablespoons into the same shape as for quenelles of 
 pheasant (for which see the Index for March number), and ornament 
 them with a round of truffle, and cook them in the same manner, and 
 when cold they should be dipped in some prepared bechemelle sauce, 
 made extra stiff by the addition of a little dissolved gelatine. It will be 
 best for this dish, being for a cold entree, to place the round of truffle on 
 each quenelle after you have dipped or masked them. You can make 
 a border to dish them upon out of what you have left, on the dish upon 
 which they are to be served, or by placing the remains in a well 
 buttered bordered mould (a plain one), with an indentation on the top, 
 expressly for this kind of entree ; and a little before dishing, with a very 
 clean camel’s hair brush dipped in liquid aspic jelly (but nearly cold), 
 mask over the boudins; and fill the centre with a financiere ragout 
 tossed in a couple of spoonfuls of aspic jelly ; and round the base there 
 should be a little finely chopped aspic, also a few small croutons of aspic 
 
236 canapees of trout a la modern 
 
 jelly, also a few sprays of green tarragon, when it is ready to serve. 
 They can also be served upon an aspic border. 
 
 Petits Vol-au-Vents a la Rein. —Make half a pound of flour 
 and half a pound of butter into puff paste, for Vol-au-Vents (see 
 Index ); they should be cut out with a plain cutter and the tops the 
 same, the latter should have a small leaf on the top, and bake and 
 prepare them in the usual manner. Then cut up the prime of a young 
 fowl which has braized for three parts of an hour in a stock pot, and 
 which has become quite cold. It should be cut into dice shapes not 
 too large; also about three prime cuts from an ox tongue, and also 
 two fine truffles, which should be mixed with sufficient bechemelle sauce 
 to fill them. And before filling them, take care the soft paste from 
 the inside of the petits vol-au-vents has been thoroughly removed. 
 Dish in a pile with a little chopped aspic on the side of the dish, and a 
 few sprays of parsley round the base. 
 
 Canapees of Trout a la Modern. —Prepare the croustades or 
 cases the same as for the Canap6es of Prawns a la Prince, and about 
 eighteen will be the number required. Then cut up the fillets from one 
 medium size trout into square dice of about a quarter of an inch square, 
 and run a little salad oil on a medium size saute-pan, and place the cut¬ 
 up trout on this with a little very finely chopped parsley and a little 
 mixed pepper and salt; then place them in the oven to cook for a few 
 minutes. When cooked, place them to become cold. Then lightly 
 mix in the same into some mayonnaise sauce, and fill the croustades, 
 and finish the same as for the Canapees of Prawns h la Prince. 
 
SALAD OF PHEASANTS A L’ASPIC. 
 
 237 
 
 COLD ENTREES OF PRESERVED GAME 
 
 WHICH CAN BE SERVED ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
 
 Salad of Pheasants a l’Aspic. —Open one tin of preserved 
 pheasant, and having washed the same, cut it up in neat pieces ; place 
 the same between two plates. Then prepare some asparagus points and 
 peas. Also a little macedoine of carrots, turnips, and natural peas, and 
 two cos lettuces cut into fine shreds ; also some light-coloured and 
 brilliant aspic jelly, with some green sprays of tarragon. Then chop 
 up two large truffles rather fine, and place them on a plate; also one 
 half-pint tin of preserved champignons, which should be freed from 
 their juice and dried in a cloth. When these are ready to your hand, 
 see that you have about one pint of liquid aspic jelly (for which see 
 page 230) as prepared for salad of lobster. Then place a plain one- 
 quart Charlotte mould, with a pipe in the centre (and one with a partly- 
 formed dome on the top looks the best), in a China pan, with a little ice 
 and water round it. Then pour into the mould about half a gill of 
 aspic jelly, on which make four small piles of chopped truffles (about 
 half a teaspoonful will be sufficient); they should be placed opposite 
 each other, and between these should be a pile of the mixed macedoine 
 of vegetables; and when the aspic jelly placed in the mould has set, 
 add a little more, so as to nearly cover the vegetables and truffles. And 
 when this has set, arrange on the top a row of the prepared pheasant; 
 this should also be covered with aspic, on which should be sprinkled a 
 little shred lettuce, also a little of your macedoine, and a slight sprinkling 
 of chopped truffles ; and when this has set arrange another row of 
 pheasant, using a few mushrooms so as they will show when the mould 
 is turned out; and so continue till you have filled the mould with the 
 pheasant, macedoine of vegetables, mushrooms, and truffles, and shred 
 lettuce. And you must use your best skill to fill the mould so that it 
 will look well when turned out, and when turned out finish it as follows : 
 Garnish the base with some chopped aspic, on which place a few small 
 croutons of aspic, and between these a spray of green tarragon. Then 
 
238 SALAD OF PRESERVED LARKS A L’ASPIC. 
 
 place in a kitchen pan enough macedoine of vegetables and shred lettuce 
 to partly fill the centre of the mould, to which should be added a few 
 champignons and chopped truffles. These should be mixed together 
 with three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and a little pepper and salt, and 
 two tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, and when the same has nearly filled 
 the mould, place on the top some well-made mayonnaise sauce with 
 which has been mixed a little liquid aspic to keep it firm. 
 
 Note .—When you have filled the mould as above instructed, you 
 must take care to place sufficient ice round it to keep it nice and firm. 
 Use also sufficient aspic inside the mould to cause the different items 
 to hold well together, and turn it out of the mould the same as jelly. 
 
 Salad of Preserved Partridges a l’Aspic. —Prepare the 
 partridges (the prime parts), or, in plainer words, do not use the backs, 
 and build up exactly as for the salad of pheasants ; and finish the same. 
 For mayonnaise sauce see the Index in the number for March. 
 
 Salad of Preserved Woodcocks a la Financiere. —Cut up 
 two preserved woodcocks (the prime parts); but, instead of using a 
 macedoine of vegetables and shred lettuce inside the mould, use the 
 same ingredients as you w'ould to form a Ragout h la Financiere (the sauce 
 excepted); but use the same salad for the centre of the mould, and 
 finish and garnish in the same manner. Take care that the ragout 
 financiere is prepared as neatly and suitable in size as possible, and that 
 a portion of the same shows through the aspic jelly at the top of the 
 mould , when it is turned out upon its dish to go to table. 
 
 Salad of Preserved Snipes a l’Aspic. —These can also be 
 prepared in the same manner as the pheasants, partridges, or woodcocks, 
 and also finished in the same way. 
 
 Salad of Preserved Larks a l’Aspic. — These can be served 
 as simple as some of the foregoing, or as elaborate as some of the 
 foregoing. And let me say the inside of the mould, when turned out, 
 can be garnished with peas only, or with asparagus and peas, leaving out 
 the mayonnaise sauce, and dressing the asparagus peas and the natural 
 peas a la Francaise ; which is simply by beating in a basin three table- 
 spoonsful of salad oil with two of malt vinegar, and adding a little 
 sugar, pepper and salt to the same. They should be beaten together 
 
PRESFRVED GAME. 
 
 239 
 
 with a plated fork. Then, gently mixing in the same either vegetable I 
 have mentioned, and afterwards piling them up in the centre before 
 sending. And let me add, some most excelle?it moulds for these novel 
 salads , as well as many other novelties , can be obtained at Messrs. Temple 
 and Crook's , as proof of which see the illustrations in this month's 
 number. 
 
 Preserved Game. —The perfection with which all kinds of game 
 is now preserved at the proper season, enables me to speak and to say 
 they can be used with the greatest confidence. I have been using them 
 for several years past with great success; and during a London season, 
 I consider preserved game a very great acquisition, and they otherwise 
 add the charm of variety to our then limited stores, and are partaken of 
 with avidity by all. 
 
 And let me say, salads of preserved widgeon, teal, grouse, plovers, 
 and wild ducks, as well as of plovers’ eggs, spring chickens, and quails, 
 boned and farced, and when cold, cut in two, and built up the same as 
 those described for the salads of preserved game, look extremely well, 
 and, I might add, are sure to please those who partake of the same. 
 And also let me mention, that a Ragout a la Financiere, built up in light 
 coloured aspic jelly , with a Salad a la Russe or a FAllemande in the centre, 
 will prove as novel as they are good; also a Ragout en Matelotte Nor- 
 mande, built up in the same style, is most excellent, using the same 
 salad as for the Ragout a la Financiere. 
 
240 
 
 NEW ENTREE MOULDS 
 
 OX TONGUE. 
 4 in. 
 
 CRAWFISH. 
 
 3i in. 
 
 The above moulds can be obtainedfrom Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6, Motcomb Street, 
 
 Belgrave Square, London, S. IV. 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 (SAY FOR JUNE 9TH,) 
 
 FOR EIGHTEEN OR TWENTY PERSONS. 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Puree of Fowl a la Rein. 
 
 Clear Soup au Chasseur. 
 
 (Two Fish.) 
 
 Scallops of Trout a la Tartarre (cold). 
 
 Fried Fillets of Soles, Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 (Four Entrees.) 
 
 Cutlets of Pigeons aux Champignons. 
 
 Quails Farcies aux Truffes a l’Aspic (cold). 
 
 ( Removes.) 
 
 Spring Chickens and Tongue a la Florentine. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Roast Lamb a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Tuikey Poults, larded Roast Leverets. 
 
 (Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Tomatoes a la Moderne. 
 
 ( Tivo Removes.) 
 
 Puddings Glacee a la Nesselrode, with Macedoine of Fruits. 
 
 (Four Entremets.) 
 
 Two Chartreuses of Strawberries en Surprise. 
 
 Two Bavaroises a l’ltalienne. 
 
 (Savoury Entremets of Cheese.) 
 
 Two Beignets au Parmesan a l’Allemande. 
 
 (Table Cote). 
 
 Vegetables in Season, Salad, Sauces, &c. 
 
 Note. —Whitebait is not on the above menu, but can readily be served if wished. 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 Requisition List for dinner cf eighteen or twenty persons, for 
 June 9th 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and half veal, and with¬ 
 out bones. Fore quarter of lamb for roasting, one ox tongue, three 
 pounds slice of veal, two pounds of gravy beef, five calves’ feet, one calfs 
 tongue, pickled. The lamb to be in the kitchen on the morning of dinner, 
 the other items two days previous. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 Three fine trout for cutting, four medium sized soles filleted, two 
 quarts of whitebait. To arrive on the morning of the day of dinner by 
 xo o'clock. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Ten fine pigeons for cutting, three large fowls for stock, one of best 
 quality for soup, four spring chickens trussed for boiling, nine quails 
 boned, two pounds of pork sausage-meat, two leverets to roast, two 
 turkey poults to roast. The chickens, boned quails, turkey poults and 
 leverets , and sausage-meat , on the day previous to that of dinner, the 
 previous items tzvo days before the day cf dinner. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Sixteen medium size tomatoes and of good shape, one bunch of mint, 
 one dish of spinach, six pounds of new potatoes, four cauliflowers, three 
 quarts of fine young peas, three pounds of old potatoes, one bunch of 
 carrots, one bunch of onions, four heads of celery, half bunch of thyme 
 and parsley, eighteen lemons, two pounds of fine fresh strawberries, one 
 cucumber, one salad, half pound of shalots. A small bunch of green 
 tarragon. The carrots , onions, heads of celery, thyme and parsley, and 
 lemons to arrive two days previous to day of dinner, the rest on day oj 
 dinner. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 One medium size tin of preserved fat livers, two pint bottles of truffles, 
 two pint tins of preserved mushrooms, half pound of Parmesan cheese, 
 
PURfiE OF FOWL A LA REINE. 
 
 243 
 
 three quarts of cream, two quarts of milk, eighteen eggs, two half 
 quartern loaves (one day old), three pounds of powdered sugar, two 
 pounds of lump sugar, half pound of preserved pine apple, half pound 
 of mixed preserved fruit, half a pound of ratifias, two small bladders of 
 lard (about five pounds weight), one bottle of sherry, one pint and a half 
 of salad oil, one small bottle of tarragon vinegar, one pot of red currant 
 jelly, half bottle of brandy, one cwt. of rough ice, half pound of Naples 
 maccaroni. Half the rough ice to come in on day of dinner. 
 
 Prepare the stocks and gravies in accordance with the instructions given 
 in the first number or this work, also the stock for aspic jelly, and as I have 
 several times stated the foundation sauces veloute and Espagnol, or in 
 plain English the white and brown sauces are always the same, and 
 when the stocks have been duly perpared the same should be 
 divided into the necessary quantities. The white stock for the white 
 soup and the white sauce ; and the brown stock for the clear gravy soup 
 and for the brown sauce ; the aspic jelly stock should also be freed from 
 every particle of oil or grease, and the same with the calf’s feet jelly 
 stock. And to avoid repetition we will suppose, these separate articles 
 have been each duly prepared, and which to prevent any misconception 
 we will again repeat, namely—the white sauce, the brown sauce, the 
 aspic jelly, and the calfs feet jelly, which we shall suppose duly 
 prepared and ready for use. And that the quenelle meat has also been 
 finished and is on the ice ready for use. And that the remainder of the 
 white and brown stocks are in two separate stewpans, and on the hot¬ 
 plate, getting hot, and ready to be used for the two following soups. 
 
 Puree of Fowl a la Reine. Consomme of Veal au Chas¬ 
 seur. —Which we will forthwith give instructions to prepare. Measure 
 half a pint of Carolina rice, and look over the same and pick out any 
 black specks or soiled grains ; well wash the same in cold water, then 
 place it in a quart of boiling water, and let it boil in the same for two 
 minutes, when strain it and place it in a five-pint stewpan with one 
 quart of best white stock and the one best fowl ordered in; let these 
 gently boil for three-quarters of an hour, when take out the fowl and 
 place it in ice water, and w T hen partly cold, take and pick from the bones 
 
 all the meat, placing the same on a clean plate, and putting the bones 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 CLEAR SOUP AU CHASSEUR. 
 
 and skin aside. Then chop up the white meat rather fine, and after¬ 
 wards pound it in the mortar, and rub it through a wire quenelle sieve, 
 when add it to the rice which has been placed in a quart of boiling 
 stock, and from which you took the fowl previous to pounding the 
 same ; and now add another pint and a half of your best white stock 
 and about half a pint of very sweet double cream, and stir over the hot¬ 
 plate till it comes to the boil. Then let the same be rubbed through a 
 very clean tammy-cloth on to a large china dish, when put it in the 
 soup bain-marie. After which, place it to stand in a stewpan contain¬ 
 ing about one quart of boiling water, and let the bain-marie containing 
 the soup stand in the same on the hot-plate till the soup becomes quite 
 hot, when lift it out, and season it with a little salt, and place in the 
 larder with the cover partly open. 
 
 When serving for dinner, some thin slices of bread should be cut into 
 small square dice, cut about the same size as vegetables for Scotch 
 broth, should be fried in some clarified butter of a light-brown colour, 
 and dished on two dessert papers and sent to table with the soup 
 About half a pint should prove sufficient. 
 
 Clear Soup au Chasseur.— Mark off about two quarts of your 
 best brown gravy in a five-pint stewpan, and place on the fire to boil, 
 and while doing so prepare some small teaspoon quenelles in the 
 following manner :—Having tried the quenelle to see that it is sufficiently 
 firm, and will thoroughly stand boiling without any fear of its becoming 
 soft while so doing, place a sheet of buttered paper before you and a 
 quart of boiling water on your right-hand side, dip a teaspoon into 
 the quenelle, pressing the spoon against the side of the pan (so as to 
 press the quenelle into the spoon), withdraw the same, then dip a small 
 knife into the hot water, and with the hot knife smooth over the 
 quenelle, then with the other teaspoon dipped in the hot water, cut 
 out about three parts of the quenelle contained in the spoon, and lay 
 the same on the buttered paper (it will require a slight jerk with the 
 right hand, when the quenelle wall readily leave the spoon for the 
 paper). They should be made as nearly as possible all of the same size, 
 and be made of a good shape. You wall require about three parts of 
 a pint and when you think you have made sufficient on two or three 
 
TARTARRE SAUCE FOR SALMON. 
 
 245 
 
 small sheets of buttered paper, place about three pints of water into a 
 deep saute or brazing pan, and when boiling, carefully dip one sheet of 
 paper at a time into the boiling water, and by holding the paper at one 
 end, withdraw the paper, letting the quenelles slip off into the water, 
 and do the same with the remainder. About six minutes should cook 
 the quenelles sufficiently, and when they feel firm and compact, with a 
 perforated spoon remove them on to a sieve, after which place them in 
 two quarts of brilliant brown gravy, with half a pint of carefully boiled 
 peas, which must not be over cooked; bring the soup to the boil, and 
 add a little sugar and salt, and skim off any scum that may rise, when 
 carefully place it in a two-quart soup bain-marie, and place in the 
 larder, with the cover partly open, alongside the a la Reine soup. 
 
 The Dinner Sauces. —We will now proceed to give a list, and 
 describe the process of making the different sauces for the dinner, the 
 menu of which is given on the front page of this number. 
 
 Sauce a la Tartarre, one pint. 
 
 Mint Sauce, one pint. 
 
 Port Wine Sauce for Leverets, half pint. 
 
 Butter Sauce, one pint. 
 
 Quail Sauce, one pint. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce, one quart. 
 
 Sauce of Tomatoes, one pint. 
 
 Ragout a la Florentine, one pint. 
 
 Bread Sauce for Turkey Poults. 
 
 Mushroom Sauce, one and a half pint. 
 
 Gravy for Roast Lamb, half pint. 
 
 Espagnol for dressed Tomatoes, threequarters of a pint. 
 
 Tartarre Sauce for Salmon. —Previous to making this sauce 
 the salad oil bottle should have been in some cold water with ice in it 
 to have become quite cold. Then place a three-pint stewpan, with 
 some ice under it, in a kitchen basin; part the yolks from five very 
 fresh eggs into the three-pint stewpan, and have a small and very clean 
 wire whisp by you, also some pure malt vinegar in a bottle, and if you 
 think your salad oil is quite cold, proceed as follows : Place the stewpan 
 
246 QUAIL SAUCE FOE. COLD ENTREES OF QUAILS. 
 
 before you, and take some mixed pepper and salt, about half a tea¬ 
 spoonful; sprinkle this over the yolks of eggs; then hold your bottle of 
 salad oil in your left hand, and let a very little run slowly out upon your 
 yolks of eggs; as it does so, with the whisk in your right hand, mix the 
 01! rapidly with the yolks of eggs ; and when you see the eggs and oil 
 have blended together readily, and look somewhat firm, then keep 
 pouring your oil slowly upon the eggs, still stirring round and round 
 with the whisk ; if it shows firm, then add about one spoonful of 
 vinegar, and proceed again as before, till you have used about one pint 
 of oil and about two tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; and now chop two 
 eschalots, one gherkin, and half a handful of fresh parsley; chop them 
 very fine indeed; then place them in a pointed tin sieve, and dip them 
 into some boiling water for a minute, then make them cold and dry the 
 same, and mix them with your Tartarre sauce ; then mark the same in 
 a bain-marie, and place on ice till needed. It is best not to add the 
 chopped parsley, etc., till the sauce is needed, and you are about to dish 
 up the salmon ready for sending to table for the dinner. 
 
 Mint Sauce. —Chop up a small double handful of the leaves of 
 fresh mint very fine; add to this half a pint of malt vinegar, two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of the best brown sugar, and a gill of water, and place in a 
 bain-marie, and put in the larder. 
 
 Port Wine Sauce for Leverets. —Strain off from the Espagnol 
 half a pint of the same; add to this a spoonful of red currant jelly, and 
 two glasses of port wine; boil for a few minutes, skim, strain into a 
 bain-marie, and place in the larder. 
 
 Butter Sauce.—Or melted butter, as it is sometimes called. Place 
 one pint of water on a hot-plate to boil, and mix two good table¬ 
 spoonfuls of flour with a gill of water; it should be mixed very smooth 
 and then strained through a pointed tin strainer ; and when the pint of 
 water boils, stir the flour and water into the same with a wire whisk, 
 and when it boils draw it aside where it can gently boil for two minutes, 
 then well stir into the same about four ounces of butter, and mark off. 
 
 Quail Sauce for Cold Entrees of Quails.— Chop up the 
 bones or carcasses from the quails, and place them in a stewpan, with 
 half a pint of second stock, and two glasses of sherry, and let slowly 
 
QUAILS FARCIE AUX TRUFFES. 
 
 247 
 
 boil for half an hour; add this essence to a pint of Espagnol or 
 brown sauce, and a piece of best glaze as big as a walnut, and about 
 one ounce of soaked gelatine, and half a gill of mushroom juice if at 
 hand; stir on hot-plate till about the consistency of double cream ; 
 when pass it through a tammy cloth and mark off in a bain-marie, 
 ready for use. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce for Spring Chickens. —See pages 13 and 
 125, and follow instructions there given. 
 
 Sauce of Tomatoes for Fillets of Soles Fried. —See 
 
 instructions on page 23. 
 
 Ragout a la Florentine. —Having boiled half a pound of Naples 
 maccaroni in one quart of water, containing two ounces of butter and a 
 little salt, till the maccaroni is tender, strain it on a sieve, and place it 
 in cold water for a few minutes, when strain it again, and cut it in 
 lengths an inch long, and cut into slices, which should again be cut 
 into circular pieces about the size of a two-shilling piece, the dressed 
 ox tongue; add to these eight truffles cut into very thin slices, and 
 open a pint tin of champignons, and add them to the above, placing 
 them in a two-quart stewpan with one pint of bechemelle sauce, and 
 sprinkle over the same two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese with 
 a little cayenne pepper and salt; add to these a good handful of 
 washed, dried, and picked sultana raisins. This ragout should be made 
 slowly hot in the bain-marie case, and lightly tossed together before 
 serving round the chickens. 
 
 Sauce for Turkey Poults. —Half a pint of Espagnol with a few 
 tablespoonfuls of plain gravy, and serve very hot. 
 
 Mushroom Sauce for Fillets of Pigeon. —Place a pint tin of 
 mushrooms with their juice in one pint of Espagnol sauce, and let boil 
 for five minutes; season with pepper and salt, and mark off in a bain- 
 marie. 
 
 Gravy for Roast Lamb. —One pint of best gravy should be used 
 for this. 
 
 All your sauces are now ready, and the next best thing to do is to 
 prepare and mark off the entrees. 
 
 Quails Farcie aux Truffes. —Cut a few slices off the remainder 
 
248 
 
 QUAILS FARCIE AUX TRUFFES. 
 
 of the ox tongue ; cut these into dice, an eighth of an inch square, and 
 cut the other half of the bottle of truffles into the same size, and mix 
 these with the one pound and a half of sausage-meat; add a little salt 
 and pepper, and herbaceous mixture, and three yolks of eggs, and mix 
 well together; then divide it into ten equal parts, and cut off the legs from 
 the quails, placing a portion of the prepared sausage-meat in each quail. 
 Make them into a nice plump shape, showing the stumps where the legs 
 were cut off equally uniform on each quail; as you do them place them 
 on a deep saute-pan, and when all are finished place them in an oven, 
 not too hot, with a round of buttered paper over them ; about half an 
 hour should cook them ; look at them two or three times during the 
 half hour. Before placing them in the oven pour over them half a 
 pint of good stock ; and take care of the feet of the quails, which 
 should be scalded, and the skin removed and put aside. A glass of 
 sherry should be added to the quails before placing them to cook, and 
 a square piece of preserved fat liver placed in the centre of each is a 
 great improvement, if not considered too expensive. They should be 
 cut exactly in two when quite cold, and one of the feet should be placed 
 in each half quail near to the spot where it was taken from; then the 
 prepared quail sauce should be nicely melted, and when brought to be 
 nearly cold, place a fork in the centre, and dip each half in the sauce, and 
 arrange them neatly on a saute-pan as you do them. The sauce on each 
 half should be uniform in thickness, and take care your sauce does not 
 become too much set, as you are masking them; if so, melt it again, 
 and, let me add, strive to make them appear as neat and artistic as pos¬ 
 sible. Dish them on a border of potato paste, quenelle, or on an aspic 
 border, with the white part of two cos lettuces, cut up very fine 
 and mixed with a spoonful of salad oil, and one of malt vinegar, and a 
 little salt and pepper, which should be placed in equal quantities in the 
 centre of each dish of quails, and round the base should be some aspic 
 jelly, chopped rather fine, and on this all round a few neatly-cut crou¬ 
 tons of aspic jelly ; and at the last thing, about one dozen truffles, cut 
 in very thin slices, should be placed on the lettuce in each entree, 
 forming a pile, and allowing six truffles for each dish, when they are 
 ready to send to table. 
 
FILLETS OF PIGEONS AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 
 
 249 
 
 Fillets of Pigeons aux Champignons. —Bring from the larder 
 the fillets of pigeons, place the pinions in a small stewpan of boiling 
 water to simmer for about half an hour; then remove the small fillets 
 which are under the large fillets; cut a little slit in the centre of the 
 large fillets, and not on the smooth side, with the skin over them, but 
 on the rough side, and place the small fillet in each slit. And now 
 see that your knife is very sharp (your second-size knife), have a 
 little water in a small basin by your side, wet each fillet with your 
 fingers of the left hand, pat it gently, then cut the skin off the 
 other side; you must be very particular and not cut away any more 
 of the fillet with the skin than you can possibly help. When you 
 have done the twenty fillets in this way, then chop up some parsley 
 and about a dozen very fresh mushrooms and a little green thyme ; 
 chop these with the livers very fine, and then add a small handful 
 of very fine fresh-made bread crumbs, with two yolks of eggs and a 
 little pepper and salt; make this into a kind of paste; but before 
 proceeding further with the fillets look to the pinions you put to boil, 
 strip the flesh off each, and you will find a little straight bone in each ; 
 take them out carefully (there should be twenty), and with your small 
 knife scrape them free from all flesh, and cut one end off each close to the 
 end in a slanting direction , so as to form a sharp edge like a chisel , then 
 place one of these bones into the pointed end of each fillet of pigeon, 
 then spread the paste made from the livers neatly over each fillet, so 
 as to mask one side evenly; it should be put on about as thick as a 
 halfpenny. And now have about half a quartern loaf made into very 
 fine bread crumbs placed in a large dish; crack four whole eggs, and 
 as many yolks; add a little salt and beat together with a whisk, then 
 dip each fillet of pigeon into the egg carefully, and with the fore¬ 
 finger of the left hand remove a portion of the egg that is on each 
 fillet. (A small pie dish is excellent for the purpose of holding the eggs, 
 because you can rest each fillet on the edge, and there remove any 
 surplus egg that shows.) Dip each fillet as you do them on to the bread 
 crumbs, then cover them with the bread crumbs, pat each one between 
 your hands as you do them, and proceed till all are finished. Then 
 take two saute-pans that will hold ten each, place a little clarified butter 
 
THE DAY OF THE DINNER. 
 
 250 
 
 in each, pat them into shape and place ten in each, and when finished 
 put a round of buttered paper over them and place in the larder till 
 needed. 
 
 And when about to finish the pigeon cutlets saute them over the red- 
 hot part of the hot-plate of a nice light-brown colour, and dish them on 
 a border of prepared potato paste, and then put them in the screen till 
 you are ready to sauce. And here let me remark that the carcasses of 
 the pigeons should have been placed on the fire in a stewpan with 
 about half a pint of second stock, and allowed to simmer for about one 
 hour, when the essence thus obtained should have been reduced to a 
 glaze and added to the mushroom sauce prepared for the fillets. And 
 at the last thing the mushrooms should be equally divided between 
 the two entrees, and the sauce the same, and then poured round the 
 fillets of pigeons, and served. 
 
 The Evening preceding the Day of the supposed Dinner .—By atten¬ 
 tively examining the menu the following are the results:—The two 
 soups are ready; also the whole of the sauces needed for the dinner 
 are ready. And the calves’ feet jelly, and the aspic jelly are ready. And 
 the four entrees are ready, also the quenelle of veal. And let me 
 remark that all which have been prepared should be duly arranged in 
 the larder. And rough ice should be placed round those articles that 
 need the like, which are the sauces, the soups, the jellies, and the 
 entrees. And to do this proceed as follows : place the two soups in a 
 fish kettle with some ice round them. Then follow suit by placing the 
 sauces in the bain-marie case, and put rough ice in the centre, and 
 by placing rough ice in the turbot kettle, the other articles, such as the 
 jellies, can be placed in the same, and any other small articles should 
 be placed in the refrigerator, or protected in a similar manner; and, let 
 me add, I have frequently found the month of June a very trying 
 month for all culinary productions, and in our very variable climate we 
 cannot be too cautious. And the use of a little ice will sometimes save 
 a great amount of trouble and of loss. And another day will give 
 ample time to finish in a proper manner all that is needed to do. 
 
 The Day of the Dinner.—Having looked through the menu, 
 and seen that all things from the different tradespeople have duly 
 
ROAST FORE QUARTER OF LAMB A L’ANGLAISE. 25 I 
 
 arrived, and are ready to hand, we will now proceed to finish the dinner 
 as marked upon the menu, with the exception of the fish, which, 
 not arriving till the day of the dinner, we will finish the last. 
 
 Spring Chickens and Tongue a la Florentine. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Roast Lamb a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Spring Chickens and Tongue a la Florentine. —Trim the ox 
 tongue, and mark in a stewpan; and place in a separate stewpan the 
 four spring chickens to boil; and one hour before the dinner takes place 
 put three quarts of boiling water in a stewpan on the fire, and when 
 boiling stir into the same four tablespoonfuls of flour, which has been 
 smoothly mixed with three parts of a pint of cold water, and strained 
 through a pointed tin strainer before mixing; and when it boils, place 
 the spring chickens in the same, and throw in a good handful of chopped 
 fat or suet or clean dripping, and allow the chickens to boil in this 
 half an hour; and when they have boiled exactly that time remove them 
 from the fire, covering them closely, and let them remain till ten 
 minutes before you need them, placing them on the fire again to become 
 thoroughly hot, when place them on a dish preparatory to dishing them 
 up for dinner, taking care to remove the strings with which they were 
 tied up. And let me here remark, the ox tongue can be served either 
 whole or cut in scollops, and mixed with the Florentine ragout, as 
 directed; but if the tongue is served whole it should be nicely glazed 
 twice over before placing between the fowls ; but I think it better cut 
 in round scollops, and mixed in the sauce. 
 
 Note .—Do not sauce the chickens till leaving the kitchen, and take 
 care the sauce is very hot. 
 
 Roast Fore Quarter of Lamb a l’Anglaise. —The quarter 
 of lamb should be neatly trimmed in the following manner :—Cut 
 off the scrag end in a slanting direction, so as to take away as little 
 of the meat as possible ; then remove the chine bone by sawing off the 
 same close to the ribs, and with your knife remove the bones adhering to 
 the fillet. Saw off also the hard part of the breast-bone ; after which, 
 gently saw through the centre of the rib bones; then turn over the 
 quarter of lamb, and with a very sharp knife remove any patches of 
 
252 
 
 THE FIRST COURSE VEGETABLES. 
 
 brown skin that may show; and when thus far prepared, take four long 
 wooden or iron skewers and pass them through the quarter of lamb from 
 the fillet side to the bone of the breast, placing them at equal distances 
 apart. By this means the quarter of lamb will keep its shape. It 
 should slowly roast for two hours, and be well rubbed o-ver with a little 
 butter before putting down to roast. When done, take it from the fire 
 and very carefully remove the shoulder, cutting it off with a very sharp 
 knife, and then closely examine the shoulder, and if not quite done 
 (and bear in mind, roast lamb should be well cooked), let the shoulder 
 roast another ten minutes, or till such time as it is nicely done ; and if 
 the shoulder part of the ribs shows a little underdone, place it on a 
 saute-pan and stand the same in the dripping pan for a few minutes ; 
 when dishing, a piece of butter (about two ounces) should be placed on 
 the spot from whence the shoulder was removed, and over the butter 
 pour the juice of half a lemon with a little pepper and salt and a little 
 chopped parsley (which has after being chopped, been placed in a pointed 
 tin strainer and dipped in boiling water with a little salt in it, then 
 dried) sprinkled over the butter and lemon juice and seasoning. 
 After this the shoulder should be placed back in its original position, 
 some best gravy, very hot, should be poured round the lamb the 
 last thing; and when sending away send also two sauce-boats about 
 half full of mint sauce. 
 
 Note. —The two first course removes ought to be sent away together, 
 but sometimes they are sent one at a time; when the latter is the case, 
 a reserve of vegetables should be kept to send with the second 
 remove ; the remove of poultry should always be the first sent to table. 
 
 The First Course Vegetables —These should be sent to table 
 with the first course removes, and as marked on the requisition list, 
 are as follows :—spinage, new potatoes, cauliflowers, and young peas. 
 These as stated several times should be dressed by the head 
 kitchen maid. The spinage after being boiled quite tender in water, 
 with a little salt in the same, should be strained upon a hair sieve, taking 
 care the stalks were picked off before boiling. When the water has been 
 pressed from the same , pound it in a mortar till quite a pulp, after this 
 rub it through a wire quenelle sieve, then place it in a stewpan and put 
 
THE SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 253 
 
 it on the hot-plate for a short time to allow the surplus moisture to 
 evaporate ; when this has been accomplished, add to it one pat of fresh 
 butter, a piece of best glaze as big as a large walnut, a little pepper, 
 salt and sugar, and the half of a grated nutmeg, mix these w r ell together, 
 and when nicely palatable it is ready for use or sending to table. The 
 cauliflowers should be carefully boiled till tender, and served with melted- 
 butter or white sauce. The young peas should have a bunch of fresh 
 mint in the water, and not too much salt, say about one tablespoonful 
 to the quart, with two pieces of soda about as big as a pea. The new 
 potatoes should not be placed on the fire till five minutes before the 
 time for dinner. The peas should have two small pats of butter put 
 with them a few minutes before serving, and should be sent to table as 
 hot as it is possible to send them. 
 
 The Salad.—This should be prepared by the butler, and should be 
 dressed a la Frangaise, which simply means with oil and vinegar beaten 
 together in equal quantities, with a little pepper and salt, and then 
 poured over the salad when arranged in the bowl; about one half pint 
 should be sufficient. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 Roast Turkey Poults, larded. 
 
 Roast Leverets, larded. 
 
 These should be put down to roast three-quarters of an hour before 
 the time for dinner. The leverets should be stuffed with a veal 
 stuffing prepared in the following manner:—One pound of fresh made 
 bread crumbs, half a pound of finely-chopped beef suet, a small handful 
 of parsley with the stalks picked off and chopped fine, some pepper and 
 salt, and mixed with a little fresh lemon thyme, which should be chopped 
 with the parsley. The above should be mixed together with four 
 whole eggs, and then divided in two parts, one part for each leveret, 
 which should be secured in each with an iron skewer, and then some 
 thin slices of fat bacon should be spread over the back, which should 
 be tied on with some string to the skewers with which the leverets 
 are trussed. The Turkey Poults should be served with plain gravy and 
 
254 
 
 PUDDING GLACPE A LA NESSELRODE. 
 
 bread sauce, for which see Index in this Number; and the leverets with 
 the port wine sauce. 
 
 THE VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 Tomatoes a la Moderne are prepared in the following manner: 
 — Take sixteen medium size tomatoes ; cut off the tops containing the 
 stalks or the parts to which they were attached, and squeeze out the 
 pips or seeds which each contains, also the juice, a wooden skewer 
 will help you to do this nicely. Then take four of the fillets of fowls 
 which you removed from the fowls used for your soups, and make 
 the same into a cream of fowl (for which see the quarterly Index in the 
 number for March). It should be made rather firmer than usual. With 
 this fill up the cavities in each tomato, and bake them in a rather sharp 
 oven for about ten minutes, till the cream of fowl in each has become 
 set. Then dish them on two small dishes, and pour a little thin Espagnol 
 sauce in the centre of each dish before serving. They should be sent 
 to table with the second course roast, and dished upside down. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE REMOVES. 
 
 Pudding Glacee a la Nesselrode. — Place one quart of fresh 
 milk in a two-quart stewpan to boil, and then crack six whole eggs 
 into a two-quart kitchen pan, smelling each one carefully, so as 
 to prevent using a musty one; then add to these four yolks of 
 eggs, of which be equally careful. Then add to the same six. 
 ounces of powdered sugar and the zest of two fragrant lemons 
 (and smell these also), for lemons are sometimes as musty as a 
 bad egg. Beat these well together, and when the quart of milk 
 boils, with a small ladle add about one gill of the milk at a time, 
 beating or mixing the same with the eggs and sugar with a wire 
 whisk; and when all the milk has been thus mixed with the same, 
 place the mixed eggs, sugar and milk back in the stewpan, and put it 
 on the fire or hotplate, and keep stirring the same till it begins to thicken, 
 and be very careful not to let it boil. You can readily tell when it 
 begins to thicken by closely observing or watching the same, and by 
 
PUDDING GLACEE A LA NESSELRODE. 
 
 255 
 
 placing quickly the top of your middle finger in it, and if it masks and 
 shows thick on your finger, withdraw it instantly from the hot-plate, and 
 stir it rapidly for a minute, then pour it back into a kitchen-pan con¬ 
 taining one gill of cream, and still keep it stirring for two or three 
 minutes to drive out the steam, and thereby prevent it curdling. After 
 the custard is thus made, measure one pint and a half of very fresh 
 double cream, and add it to the custard, with a handful of ratifias and 
 a gill of brandy, and six ounces more powdered sugar. When the 
 puddings are ready for freezing, which do after the same manner as for 
 the Biscuits Glacee a la Reine in the May number. When frozen, cut 
 up half a pound of preserved pine apple, and half a pound of mixed 
 preserved fruits into dice shape, about a quarter of an inch square, 
 which well mix into the frozen puddings. Then prepare about twenty 
 pounds of pounded ice, place some of this in a pail (say three pounds) 
 and mix a good handful of salt with it. And now fill two quart ice moulds 
 with your frozen puddings ; they should be well filled into the moulds 
 so as to show full when turned out, and by tapping the mould on the 
 dresser as you fill them such can be readily accomplished. When both 
 moulds are filled, place them beside each other in the pail. Then mix 
 about two pounds of fine or pounded salt with the remainder of your 
 pounded ice, which place as quickly as possible round the moulds 
 containing the two puddings, and on the top of them, using a wooden 
 mallet or rolling pin to force the salted ice as closely as possible round the 
 pudding moulds. After this obtain what ice is left round the freezer, which 
 should be re-salled , and placed on the top of the pail containing the 
 puddings, and when you re-salt the ice do not spare the salt, but use 
 sufficient to make the ice look quite white, as if it had been mixed with 
 fine snow. When the puddings are needed for dinner, remove the ice 
 from the top, turning the same into another pail, then dip the ice 
 moulds into some lukewarm water, then dry them with a cloth, open 
 the moulds and place on two dishes the puddings, and send them 
 to table. And bear in mind the puddings should not be turned out till 
 asked for. The reason that two puddings are sent is to enable the 
 attendants to serve each side of the table at the same time. You 
 can serve, instead of the cut-up fruit mixed in the puddings, a mace- 
 
256 CHARTREUSE OF STRAWBERRIES EN SURPRISE. 
 
 doine of fresh fruits composed of strawberries, grapes, peaches, and 
 apricots, which should be cut up in neat pieces and a couple of 
 glasses of maraschino poured over the same, with a gill of cold syrup, 
 which should be arranged round each pudding and the syrup divided 
 between them. But when you serve a macedoine of fruits, there should 
 be no fruits inside the same, but be quite plain. 
 
 THE SWEET ENTREMETS. 
 
 Two Chartreuses of Strawberries en Surprise. 
 
 Two Bavaroises a l’ltalienne. 
 
 Chartreuse of Strawberries en Surprise. —Select two plain 
 Charlotte moulds, and then place your jelly to melt on the side of the 
 hot-plate, and seek two pint bottles (olive bottles or caper bottles), or 
 two quart fruit bottles would do; have them washed, and stand the two 
 moulds in a kitchen-pan or any suitable vessel. Watch your jelly, and 
 see that it melts very slowly, and that it does not get hot; and now 
 place a little ice round the moulds, and get a silver or plated table¬ 
 spoon, and pour a spoonful into each mould when set, place a quart 
 fruit bottle exactly in the centre of each, then add another spoonful of 
 jelly to each mould, which, when set, will keep your bottles upright, and 
 now turn out one pound of strawberries on to a hair sieve, and place 
 a row of equal size, and the finest, at the bottom of each mould ; cover 
 the same with jelly, and when set, proceed with another row, and so on 
 till both moulds are nearly full. There should be, when melted, a glass 
 of maraschino put in the jelly when you begin; when firmly set remove 
 the bottles by placing a little warm water in each, and twisting them 
 round gently; and blowing down beside the bottles with your breath, 
 when the bottle will come away easily; then whip half a pint of cream, 
 after which prepare half an ounce of dissolved gelatine, made hot, and 
 rub a handful of strawberries through a hair sieve; place these in a basin 
 with a little sugar, and the juice of half a lemon, and a little cochineal 
 (a very little), then make your dissolved gelatine quite hot, and pour t 
 over the sugar and pur6e of strawberries, and mix together; then stir in 
 your whipped cream and fill up the holes that the removi of the bottles 
 
BAVAROISE A L’lTALIENNE. 
 
 257 
 
 has caused. Then fill two small moulds with clear jelly, to place on the 
 top of the chartreuses when turned out; the top of two ice moulds would 
 do well for the purpose, or any small moulds about that size, not too 
 high, and you can ornament the same according to your fancy, using 
 pink jelly, or plain jelly whipped till it is nearly set, or with a little gold- 
 leaf and shred pistachio nuts in either plain or pale pink clear jelly. 
 When serving for table dip the chatreuses in luke warm water, then dry 
 the moulds with a cloth, and shake each one gently, and when you find 
 the contents loose in the mould turn them on to the dishes selected; 
 and then turn out the tops, which place neatly on the chartreuses when 
 they are ready to send to table. In warm weather be particular to keep 
 the chartreuses in a pan with some rough ice round them, and the same 
 with the tops, for by so doing the contents of the moulds will turn out 
 without fear of breakage, and will be better in quality. 
 
 Bavaroise a ITtalienne. —Place one and a half ounces of gelatine 
 to soak —the pied de veau gelatine —in a quart of water for twenty minutes. 
 Then rub six fragrant lemons on a lump of sugar, to extract the zest; 
 when all the lemons are finished scrape off the zest, and place the same 
 in a stewpan, when cut the lemons in two and squeeze out the juice 
 from them through a pointed tin strainer upon the zest, and add to this 
 one wineglass of brandy, and two wineglasses of sherry ; place the stew- 
 pan containing these aside for a short time. Then place one pint of 
 fresh milk on the fire to make into a smooth custard, using half the 
 quantity of eggs and sugar as for the pudding a la Nesselrode described 
 a few pages back, and be very particular to make it very smooth. After 
 this whip one pint and a half of very fresh cream till it becomes firm and 
 light like meranque, or whipped whites of eggs, when place upon a hair 
 sieve, and next ornament two quart jelly moulds by placing a few grapes 
 or some pale pink jelly at the bottom of the moulds, about an inch deep; 
 if you use the grapes, place the same depth of jelly over the grapes. 
 
 And now place your gelatine, sugar, juice of lemons, etc., on the fire, 
 and when the gelatine is melted add three full tablespoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar; and when hot pour it into the pint of custard, mix these well together 
 in a suitable pan, then quickly mix your whipped cream into this (it must 
 
 be well mixed-—a wire whisk is the best to mix it with); then fill your 
 
 S 
 
258 TWO BEIGNETS AU PARMESAN A L’ALLEMANDE. 
 
 two ornamented moulds with this, tapping the moulds on the dresser 
 to make them show evenly when turned out; the mixture should be 
 evenly divided between the two moulds. And it is best to strain the 
 gelatine on a sieve for a few minutes before dissolving it in the wine 
 and brandy and lemon juice, and to add a half gill of water, and when 
 the gelatine is melted, and before mixing in the cream, make sure it 
 is sufficiently sweet, adding a little more sugar if you think it is not; 
 and when you have filled in the moulds place them in a kitchen-pan 
 with some ice round them, and put in the larder with the chartreuses. 
 When needed for dinner they should be dipped in lukewarm water (say 
 half a pailful). And the best w r ay to do this is to hold the mould firmly 
 in your right hand, and plunge it right into the water and withdraw it 
 quickly, then dry the mould with a cloth, and afterwards slightly shake the 
 mould between your two hands, and when you feel the bavaroise is loose 
 let it slip on to the centre of the dish upon which it is to go to 
 table. A Bavaroise k l’ltalienne is, when made as here instructed, 
 a most excellent dish, and one which I have always found give great 
 satisfaction. 
 
 SAVOURY ENTREMETS OF CHEESE. 
 
 Two Beignets au Parmesan a l’Allemande. —The Beignets 
 au Parmesan are made exactly the same, as far as the mixture goes, as 
 the Favorites au Parmesan, but without the ham, and they should not 
 be bread-crumbed, but should be laid out on half-sheets of foolscap 
 paper, which should be slightly buttered. The mixture being placed in 
 a linen bag (see Illustrations in the first number of the Kitchen Oracle) 
 which has a tin pipe of about a quarter of an inch in diameter tied in 
 it, through this the mixture should be squeezed in circular lumps, 
 about half the size of a large walnut, upon a couple of half-sheets of 
 foolscap paper, buttered as before intimated ; and when needed, should 
 be fried in clean hog’s lard sufficiently hot to fry fish in, and they should 
 be moved gently to and fro with a perforated spoon, to cause them to 
 fry and take colour uniformly; and before you fry them off, try a couple, 
 and if you find them too light add a couple or three more yolks of eggs, 
 for the cheese will sometimes cause them to spread, instead of plumping 
 
LEMON WATER ICE. 
 
 259 
 
 into round, light, and very crisp balls. They should not be fried off 
 until your soup and fish have been sent to table, but should be laid out 
 on the buttered sheets of foolscap paper, ready to slip into the hot fat 
 at a moment’s notice; and by holding one end of the paper in your 
 right hand, and dipping the same in the hot lard, they will slip off in a 
 second into the same, when they should be gently moved to and fro 
 till they are of a light brown colour; and by breaking one open you can 
 quickly see if they are sufficiently cooked, as the inside will show like a 
 honeycomb, and they will feel quite firm to the touch. Before dishing, 
 sprinkle a little Parmesan over them, and dish them in two piles on 
 dessert papers, and keep them hot at the mouth of the oven till needed. 
 As you fry them, do not place more than eight at a time in the hot lard, 
 and as you cook them, place them on a wire sieve, which should lean 
 on the edge of the dripping-pan in front of the range fire or at one side. 
 About one dozen on a dish will be sufficient. For Favorites au 
 Parmesan, see pages 66, 122. 
 
 THE ICES. 
 
 Fresh Strawberry Cream. —Pick one pound of fresh straw¬ 
 berries from the stalks and rub them through a hair sieve; measure 
 this pulp, which should yield you one pint, and if not quite sufficient, 
 make up the quantity with cream, and place it in a three-pint kitchen- 
 pan ; add to this the juice of one fragrant lemon and six ounces of 
 pounded sugar and one pint of very fresh cream, with about one 
 spoonful of prepared cochineal. Mix well together, and if of a good 
 but slight pink colour, it will do, if not, add a few drops more of pre¬ 
 pared cochineal. 
 
 Lemon Water Ice. —Place half a pound of lump sugar in half a 
 pint of water in a stewpan to boil, and when it does so, skim the same, 
 and then remove it on to the dresser. Then select four fragrant lemons, 
 and take care to smell them, for some lemons are sometimes as musty as a 
 musty egg. They should also be rubbed with a clean cloth. Then take a 
 piece of broken window glass, and holding the same in your right hand 
 and a lemon in your left, scrape off the zest or thin peel of the lemon 
 
 into the syrup you have just made (you will find the piece of glass will 
 
 S 2 
 
26 o 
 
 LEMON WATER ICE. 
 
 very rapidly bring off the zest), and in this manner do the like with the 
 other three lemons; and now cut the four lemons in two crosswise, also 
 four others, and with a wooden lemon squeezer, when you have split 
 the pith which shows in the centre of each lemon with your knife, 
 squeeze out the juice and part pulp into a small china basin, after which 
 press it in a pointed tin strainer, adding a half gill of water before doing 
 so, which mix well together with the pulp and juice of lemon ; when all 
 the juice has been obtained mix it with the syrup, to which also add 
 sufficient water to make, together with the syrup and juice, exactly 
 one quart , this should also be strained through the tin strainer to free 
 it from the chips of lemon peel. Then prepare two two-quart pewter 
 freezers by well washing and scalding out the same and wiping them 
 dry. After this place them side by side in a pail or oval tub; then 
 pound about twenty-four pounds of rough ice into small pieces, and 
 mix with about two pounds of fine salt; mix well and quickly together 
 with the ice, and place it round the two freezers, in which should have 
 been previously placed the two ices, with the covers fixed firmly upon 
 them to prevent any particle of salted ice falling into the same. After 
 this lift the tub upon a chair, and holding the handle of the right-hand 
 freezer in the right hand, and the left-hand freezer in the left, keep 
 turning them round and round for about five minutes, then take off the 
 lids, and with a pewter ice spatula scrape from the side of each freezer 
 the ice which has frozen upon the side of each, when again fix on 
 the lids and proceed again to turn or twist the two freezers round for 
 another five minutes, and proceed again to scrape off the frozen ice 
 from the sides ; then leaving the covers off, with your spatula held by 
 both hands, keep beating by a circular motion of the spatula the 
 prepared ice inside the freezer, causing the freezer by this action to spin 
 round rapidly, and at the same time to thoroughly mix together the 
 inside. You must continue this till the ice cream or water ice has 
 become thoroughly firm and a smooth solid mass, then proceed to finish 
 the other in the same manner. And here let me remark, if you find the 
 ice does not freeze rapidly-—or, in kitchen parlance, does not bite well 
 —add another handful or two more salt to the ice, sprinkling the same 
 well round the tub so as to mix with the ice. When both are frozen and 
 
FILLETS OF SOLES. 
 
 26 l 
 
 well mixed, pound about another seven pounds of rough ice, and mixing 
 about one pound of fine salt with it, place about half in another pail. 
 Then fill two quart ice moulds with the frozen strawberry ice and 
 the lemon water, and proceed as follows :—fix the bottoms firmly 
 on the pewter moulds, and if they should fit loosely place a piece of 
 paper over the bottom, and then fix in firmly the upright; and now, 
 with the aid of your ice spatula and a spoon, thoroughly well press the 
 frozen ice into the mould, so much so that it will be sure to show a 
 smooth surface when sent to table; and after filling in the bottom fill in 
 the top, and then with the palm of your hand press the top so that it 
 will fit tightly and closely upon that inside, and when both are filled 
 and in the pail, cover them well with the rough ice last prepared or 
 pounded, pressing the same closely round the two ice moulds, and 
 sprinkling more salt over the ice as you do so. Then remove the 
 freezers from the tub in which the ices were frozen, and pour off the 
 water from the ice therein remaining, which remove into another vessel, 
 but do not use any of the used-up or refuse salt which will be found at 
 the bottom of the pail, and mix a couple of double handfuls of fresh 
 salt with the remaining ice, and with the same top up that which you 
 placed round the two moulds. And let me observe, the ice should be 
 quite six inches above the moulds, and plenty of salt used with the 
 same. When needed for table, the tub which contains the ice moulds 
 should be turned over into the sink, and the mould of ice dipped into 
 lukewarm water, then dried in or with a cloth, and turned out on china 
 or glass dishes and sent to table, and two dishes of ice wafers should be 
 sent with them. 
 
 THE FISH. 
 
 And now, being all in good time, we will prepare the 
 
 Fillets of Soles with Sauce of Tomatoes ; and 
 Scollops of Trout & la Tartare. 
 
 Fillets of Soles. —Spread the fillets of soles out on your cutting 
 board, and trim them of the same size as nearly as possible, and be very 
 particular to arrange them on a dish as you do them with the inside of 
 the fillets uppermost (I mean the side that was next to the bones before 
 
 1 
 
262 
 
 SCOLLOPS OF FILLETS OF TROUT. 
 
 cutting them from the same). When duly prepared, break two eggs and 
 two yolks into a basin; add a little pepper and salt, and then with the 
 egg-brush egg over each fillet of sole, and as you do them dip them 
 into some finely-made bread crumbs, and take care to arrange them on 
 a dish still with the same side upwards; and when all are done they 
 should, when preparing them for dinner, be fried in some nice, clean 
 hog’s lard, sufficiently hot to fry your fillets of a nice gold colour; and 
 as you take up each fillet it should be made into a curl by holding one 
 end in each hand and twisting it, and in this shape they should be 
 dipped in the hot fat, and by keeping the inside of the fillets towards 
 you, as instructed, you will find them keep their shape while frying. As 
 you fry them (and do about six at a time) place them on a wire sieve, 
 and keep the same beside the dripping-pan, or at the part where the 
 fillets will keep nice and hot ; when all are fried shake a little fine salt 
 over them, and dish them in a pile in the centre of a hot dish, and 
 when needed, pour the sauce boiling hot round them , and send them to 
 table. 
 
 Scollops of Fillets of Trout. —Cut off the heads of the trout 
 in a slanting direction ; then split each in two, keeping your knife close 
 upon the central bone as you do so, and then cut under the bone and 
 remove the same, and nicely trim each half of trout, freeing the same 
 entirely from the small bones before you proceed to cut your scollops ; 
 and let me remark, to cut your scollops nicely your knife should be a very 
 sharp one and somewhat pliable. And now place one half of the trout 
 lengthwise before you, the thick part towards your left hand, and bear 
 in mind each scollop should be, when finished, like the inside half of a 
 well-shaped pear (I mean when cut in two), and bear in mind the scol¬ 
 lops should be of the same size as nearly as possible, and about three 
 inches long. 
 
 So now proceed and cut each scollop in a slanting direction, and 
 do not cut too near the skin, and by carefully sloping your knife as you 
 cut them you can give to the surface of each a somewhat rounded 
 appearance; and if you find you have gone too near the skin, and the 
 same, instead of showing a bright salmon colour, has dark patches upon 
 it, do not cut so deep with the others ; and when you have cut all the 
 
SCOLLOPS OF FILLETS OF TROUT. 
 
 263 
 
 scollops, and trimmed them into the shape desired, arrange them on a 
 saute-pan, with the pointed end of each sloping to the right hand, and 
 with sufficient oil on the saute-pan to prevent them sticking to the same 
 when cooking. A sheet of oiled paper should be placed over them. 
 They should be dressed an four —which means, in the oven—and take 
 care the oven is of good heat before placing them in the same. About 
 seven or ten minutes should cook them, and when firm to the touch 
 you may rely they are done; the cream also that comes from between 
 the flakes will show upon them. When you take them from the oven 
 sprinkle a little pure malt vinegar and a little mixed pepper and salt 
 over them, and then place them aside to become cold, or on a little 
 pounded ice if needed quickly. 
 
 Then boil six very fresh eggs ten minutes, placing them on the fire 
 in cold water, and be particular to let them boil the time specified , and 
 avoid using cracked eggs, for they will be sure to boil out of shape; and 
 you can readily test the eggs by tapping them together, when, if cracked, 
 they will at once proclaim the same by the sound, which you can readily 
 distinguish by tapping two sound eggs together. Be particular not to 
 let them boil longer than ten minutes, for if they do, when cut in two 
 they will show a disagreeable black mark round each yolk, which will 
 also lose its bright yellow appearance. 
 
 When about to dish, proceed as follows :—Take a small-sized beet¬ 
 root, and cut it into dice about a quarter of an inch square ; place the 
 boiled eggs in sufficient cold water to cover them directly you have 
 boiled them; then peel an evenly-grown cucumber thinly, and cut it in 
 slices, placing the same on a plate; take four cos lettuces which have 
 been in soak some time, cut off the outer green leaves and dry them in 
 a cloth, then cut them in two, and cut the prime part in shreds as finely 
 and evenly as possible. Then take a suitable size dish (silver or china), 
 and now tap the boiled eggs gently on the dresser to crack the shells, 
 which remove, and then cut them evenly in two, crosswise, and then 
 cut each half through the centre, and arrange them—the outside, to 
 show the yolks—close to the border of the dish; they should be placed 
 so as just to touch each other; then round the eggs place a border of 
 cucumber, each slice evenly, but slightly overlapping each other and 
 
264 
 
 CROUSTADES FOR THE A LA REINE SOUP. 
 
 slanting to the top border of the dish now mix the cut-up beetroot } 
 with the shredded lettuce, and place these in the centre of the dish, 
 which should be then made into a pile, but flat at the top; and on this 
 dish put your scollops of trout, which should be placed with great care, 
 leaning on each other after the manner of cutlets, and so as to show 
 uniformly. Then mix one gill of plain salad oil with half a gill of malt 
 vinegar, and add to these a little mixed pepper and salt and a little 
 sugar; beat these well together, and pour over the salad, and then in 
 the centre place in a pile the Tartare sauce (which should have 
 been kept on ice up to the time of using it), and finally, sprinkle a 
 little chopped aspic over the scollops of trout, and the dish is ready 
 to send to table, keeping it on ice till you do so. 
 
 The Croustades for the a la Reine Soup. —These should be 
 cut in small square dice from some thin slices of bread cut from a half 
 quartern loaf a day old, about the eighth of an inch square, and then 
 fried of a light brown colour in some clarified butter in a saute-pan. 
 They should be watched attentively, and moved to and fro with a 
 perforated spoon to make them fry of an equal colour, and when done 
 skimmed out and drained on a sieve; about half a pint is what will be 
 required, and it is best to fry them half at a time. When sending to 
 table they should be placed on two dessert papers on two plates, and 
 sent from the kitchen with the soups. 
 
 And thus the dinner is all prepared; and as a full description has 
 been given of how the separate dishes should be served, we shall 
 conclude our remarks in reference thereto by advising our fair 
 sisters of the kitchen whose profession is that of a cook to read 
 over our advice in the first number of the Kitchen Oracle ; namely, 
 to see that all the china and silver dishes needed are in the screen 
 in good time, and the fires duly made up by five o’clock, supposing 
 the dinner to be at eight o’clock, and the soup tureens and sauce 
 boats are all ready to hand, and that the tablecloth is spread on 
 the kitchen dresser, and the same arranged upon one end. And 
 that the two cold entrees, when dished, should be placed on a dish 
 with a little rough ice round them to keep them cold, and the same 
 with the cold fish (the trout), and that a little ice is placed round the 
 
DARIOLES OF HARE AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 
 
 265 
 
 chartreuses and bavaroises. And with your menu of the dinner beside 
 you, I feel that most persons who are somewhat practical could 
 readily send the dinner herein described from the kitchen in a first- 
 class manner. I have not mentioned potato paste for the entrees 
 because I have calculated that there is sufficient quenelle, but if not so, 
 make six potatoes in paste for dishing upon, for which see p. 63 in the 
 February number. And use what quenelle you have for the cold 
 entrees. And with these concluding remarks we shall now proceed to 
 give a further list ot 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 
 
 (The Entrees to be served hot.) 
 
 Darioles of Hare aux Champignons. 
 
 Darioles of Hare h la Macedoine and a la Financiere. 
 Scollops of Sweetbreads a la Moderne. 
 
 Scollops of Sweetbreads en Fritot, Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 Scollops of Sweetbreads a la Financiere. 
 
 Darioles of Beef aux Champignons. 
 
 Darioles of Beef a la Financiere. 
 
 Epigram of Lamb, with Puree of Peas. 
 
 Epigram of Lamb, with Asparagus Peas, and a la Macedoine. 
 Lamb Sweetbreads en Fritot, with Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads Panee a la Macedoine. 
 
 Scollops of Veal Panee h. l’ltalienne. 
 
 Scollops of Fillet of Veal, Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 Fricassee of Fowl a la Fra^aise. 
 
 Our calculation will be for the above as for double entrees. 
 
 Darioles of Hare aux Champignons. —Prepare twenty dariole 
 moulds by having them washed very clean, and butter them well with 
 some clarified butter; and let me add, the plain dariole moulds are best; 
 and you can chop three truffles very fine, and after the moulds are care¬ 
 fully buttered sprinkle the bottom of the inside with chopped truffles. 
 
266 
 
 DARIOLES OF HARE AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 
 
 Then take out the fillets from two medium size hares, both the 
 upper fillets and those inside, then remove all the other meat that 
 you consider tender; separating the sinewy parts and what you con¬ 
 sider hard, which place aside on a dish ; then chop the rough parts of 
 the hare as fine as you can, and place them on the fire with a quart of 
 second stock, with a good bouquet of thyme and parsley, a small head 
 of celery, a large onion, and the yellow part of a carrot, and place them 
 to boil as quickly as possible, skimming the same. Then pound the hare 
 meat in the mortar, as hard and as quick as you can do it, for about ten 
 minutes, when rub the same through a wire quenelle sieve ; it is wise to 
 have two sieves, and let one of your assistants help you, for the quicker 
 it is rubbed through the wire sieves the better; and when all the meat 
 has been rubbed through the sieves, remove the same on to a china 
 dish (and be particular not to waste any), pounding any that is left a 
 second time, till all is passed through that will go. After this, clean 
 the mortar with your palette knife, and then place the hare which you 
 have passed through the sieve in the mortar with about three parts of 
 half a pint of Espagnol sauce, adding some salt and a little cayenne 
 pepper, and thoroughly mix together. Then take about one pint of 
 very fresh double cream, and adding a little at a time, mix this cream 
 in also; then half fill another buttered dariole mould with some 
 of the hare, and place it to boil in a small stewpan, with enough 
 water to reach half way up the mould ; place the lid on, and let it gently 
 simmer for a few minutes, and when it feels firm to the touch remove it 
 from the fire, and closely examine its consistence, which should be a 
 light but compact body, about the same as a firm custard pudding when 
 baked, or some well-made quenelle when cooked, and if this very desir¬ 
 able point has been arrived at, it will do; but if you find it too firm, 
 add about another gill of cream, or sufficient to satisfy your mind. 
 Then fill the prepared dariole moulds with the same, and arrange them 
 in a suitable size stewpan, placing a round or two of paper, cut to fit 
 the bottom of the stewpan, upon which arrange your dariole moulds 
 of hare, when place another round of buttered paper on the top, and 
 mark in the larder. 
 
 Now look to the essence to be extracted from the rough trimmings and 
 
DARIOLE OF HARE A LA MACEDOINE. 
 
 2 67 
 
 bones of the hare, which, if the same has gently simmered for two 
 hours, should be ready, and strained off into a kitchen-pan, and placed 
 ’ in a stewpan on the hot-plate, with three-parts of a pint of Espagnol 
 sauce, a couple of spoonfuls of red currant jelly, two glasses of sherry, 
 and the juice from a pint tin can of preserved champignons ; let these 
 boil down on the hot-plate to the same consistence as Espagnol sauce, 
 taking care to skim the same frequently till no more scum will rise, when 
 it should be strained into a quart stewpan, and the pint tin of champig¬ 
 nons added to it, when again let the sauce boil, adding a little pepper 
 and salt, and when it boils mark it off in the larder beside the darioles 
 of hare. 
 
 When you are about to prepare them for dinner, place a little boiling 
 water round the dariole moulds, sufficient to reach half way up the same, 
 and let them very gently simmer for ten minutes; and to try if they 
 are cooked enough, place your finger in the centre of one of them, 
 using a little pressure, and if quite firm to the touch they will do. Then 
 turn each one upside down on a dish, leaving the moulds still on them. 
 After this, take the two entree dishes, and dipping your glaze-brush in 
 the melted glaze, with the same mark a circle or oval, according to the 
 shape of the dish, at the bottom of the dishes; then dry the dishes in 
 the oven, and repeat the glazing a second time, and dry the glaze again ; 
 then turn out the darioles on to a dry dish, and after this, dish them on 
 the entree dishes, arranging them on the glazed border, when they should 
 be covered and put in the hot screen; and when needed for table, with 
 the sauce at the boiling point, place the mushrooms in the centre (using 
 a perforated spoon for this purpose), and then pour half the sauce over 
 and round each dish. When cover, and send to table. 
 
 Dariole of Hare a la Macedoine.—These are prepared ex¬ 
 actly the same as the above, using a macedoine of vegetables instead 
 of mushrooms, which prepare. Open a pint can of preserved macedoine 
 roots, and place them into a pint of boiling water, with half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar in it; and when they boil up 
 taste them, and if quite done strain them off, and put them into a small 
 stewpan with a pat of butter, and when this has mixed with the 
 macedoine roots place half in the centre of each entree, and pour the 
 
268 SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS A LA MODERNE. 
 
 sauce only over and round the darioles and serve. . You can also, if 
 you please, use for placing in the centre, a ragout financiere, or truffles, 
 or French beans, or peas. 
 
 Scollops of Sweetbreads k la Moderne.— Take four very white 
 and large throatbreads, which must be as near as possible of the same 
 size, and place them in warm water, and let them remain in the same 
 for an hour, changing the water twice during that time ; this is done to 
 draw out any blood which has settled in them. Then boil them for 
 thirty minutes in water. After which place them in cold water, putting 
 a couple of handfuls of small ice with them ; and when they have become 
 thoroughly cold take them from the ice water and dry them on a cloth, 
 and then put them on the cutting board, and cut them in good size 
 scollops a quarter of an inch thick. And if you cut them on the slant 
 and begin at the thick end first (from which, before you commence the 
 scollops, cut off a thin slice), you will cut them more uniformly in size, 
 and also a size larger than if you cut them across. You will require 
 about twenty scollops ; and as you cut them place them on a china dish ; 
 and when finished mix six truffles, eight mushrooms, and two ounces 
 of ham ; after they have been each chopped very fine, with about 
 one pint of veal quenelle (for which see page 21 in the number for 
 January), then with this mixture mask each piece of sweetbread, 
 dipping your knife in hot water to smooth over the surface as you 
 do them, letting what you mask them with be about as thick as a 
 shilling. Then have prepared some very finely made bread crumbs, 
 made from a half-quartern loaf of yesterday’s baking. Prepare three 
 eggs and three yolks, taking great care to smell each as you crack 
 them (for fear of a musty one); place them in a small kitchen-pan with 
 a little salt, and beat them well together. Then dip each scollop into 
 this egg and then into the bread crumbs, patting the crumbs on them 
 to make them adhere ; and let an assistant help you in this, one coating 
 them with the bread crumbs and the other dipping them in the prepared 
 eggs. When all are done pat them with your knife into shape, and 
 place them as you do them on a saute-pan sprinkled over with a few 
 bread crumbs, and when finished place a round of paper over them and 
 mark them off in the larder. A plain financiere sauce should be served 
 
SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS A LA FINANClPRE. 269 
 
 with the scollops, which should be poured round them, and asparagus 
 peas should be served in the centre of each ; one pint and a half will 
 prove sufficient for the two dishes; and about twenty minutes before 
 the dinner the scollops should be fried off in some clean hog's 
 lard, made nice and hot for the purpose. And fry them as follows :— 
 Place six at a time in your frying basket of wire, and when the 
 frying lard is sufficiently hot, place the same gently in the fat, and 
 fry the scollops of a light brown colour; place them on a wire sieve 
 before the range as you fry them ; when all are fried dish them on. two 
 borders of potato paste (see page 63 in the February number), when 
 garnish, sauce, and serve. 
 
 Scollops of Sweetbreads en Fritot Sauce of Tomatoes.— 
 
 Prepare four sweetbreads as the above, but without masking the 
 scollops. Arrange them on a dish as you cut the scollops. And when 
 all are cut, prepare a fritot batter (see page 30), and one pint of sauce of 
 tomatoes (see page 23). And when about to fry the scollops see that the 
 lard for frying is nicely hot, and dust a little flour over the scollops on 
 both sides, then dip them into the frying batter, so as evenly to mask 
 the scollops. And care must be taken that the batter is not too thick, 
 but of that consistence that will readily and easily mask each scollop as 
 you dip them. Fry off eight at a time of a light brown colour, and as 
 you fry them place them on a wire sieve in front or on one side of the 
 dripping-pan. When all are fried, place a small ball of potato paste in 
 each entree dish, and round this dish up in an even pile an equal 
 number (ten or twelve scollops in each dish). Care should be taken 
 to keep them nice and hot till they are asked for, either in the mouth of 
 the oven with the door open or in the hottest part of the screen—but do 
 not cover them over, as that would act against the crispness of the 
 batter. And at the last thing let the sauce of tomatoes be poured 
 round them, boiling hot, and then sent to table. 
 
 Scollops of Sweetbreads a la Financiere. —Prepare the 
 scollops from four sweetbreads, as described in the scollops of sweet¬ 
 breads a la modern, but use six chopped truffles only , to be mixed in 
 the quenelle with which they are masked ; and be very particular to 
 rub a little yolk of egg (very slightly) over each scollop before applying 
 
270 DARIOLES OF BEEF AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 
 
 the quenelle. And if you make a corney out of half a sheet of foolscap 
 paper in the shape of a small loaf of sugar, with a hole in the pointed 
 end of about half an inch in diameter, and then pass a pin through 
 the corney near the end to keep it in shape, and enough quenelle in the 
 same to half fill it, and then fold in the wide part, and squeeze out of 
 this a circular piece of quenelle on each scollop, you will by this plan 
 be enabled to mask the scollops more evenly than by any other method 
 I know. After you have placed the quenelle on each scollop, dip a 
 small cheese knife now and then in some very hot water, and you can 
 very evenly smooth over each scollop, so as to look very equal in size. 
 "When all are done, a little half-glaze should be placed in a saute-pan 
 and melted, and then the scollops should be placed evenly in this (or a 
 little gravy will do), and a sheet of buttered paper cut round should be 
 placed over them. Then when needed for dinner, place them in the 
 oven for about ten minutes to cook the quenelle and for the scollops to 
 become quite done. They should then be drained on a cloth and 
 dished on two borders of potato paste in the same manner as for the 
 scollops a la moderne, when a financiere ragout should be served in 
 the centre of each, and its sauce poured over each scollop as well as 
 round the base before serving. (For Financiere Ragout, see the 
 quarterly Index at the end of the number for March.) 
 
 Darioles of Beef aux Champignons. —Take about three pounds 
 of fillet steak cut from under the rump, and as free from fat as possible 
 which cut in lengths about a quarter of an inch thick. Then with your 
 knife, which should be rather sharp, place one length on the cutting 
 board, and holding one end tightly down on the board with the fingers 
 of the left hand, scrape off the flesh with the knife in your right hand, 
 by keeping the right constantly in its action moving to the right, and 
 thereby removing as much flesh as possible from the sinew's and fibres 
 contained in each length or strip of beef before you. And when you have 
 removed in this way all of the real flesh from one side do the same with 
 the other, and the the same by the end held down by the fingers of the 
 left hand. And when you see all the real flesh has been thus obtained 
 from one strip of beef, proceed in the same manner till all the flesh has 
 been obtained. Then let it be thoroughly well pounded for ten minutes 
 
DARIOLES OF BEEF A LA FINANClfeRE. 
 
 27I 
 
 in the mortar, after which it should be rubbed through a wire sieve 
 as quickly as possible, and as you rub it through the sieve let a 
 china plate be placed under the sieve, and now and then scrape off 
 from the sieve what you have rubbed through with an iron spoon. And 
 when all has been passed through the sieve collect it on to a plate, and let 
 it remain for a short time. Then collect twenty plain dariole moulds (a 
 collection of which you will see in the engravings both in the January 
 and February numbers of the work); see that the moulds are very clean, 
 when butter them with some clarified butter which has been well worked 
 together with the butter-brush till it shows creamy. After which place 
 the flesh from the beef into the mortar, and add to it one gill of 
 Espagnol sauce, which well mix together in the mortar with a little salt and 
 cayenne pepper. After which mix into the same about one pint of very 
 fresh double cream, adding about a gill at a time, and take every care 
 that the cream is well amalgamated and blended with the beef. Then 
 a portion should be tried as described for the darioles of hare a few 
 pages back ; and when satisfactory fill your darioles with the same, 
 and mark them off as described for the darioles of hare. And when 
 needed cook them for the same time and in the same way; they 
 should be also dished the same. 
 
 The sauce should be prepared as follows:—Open a pint can of 
 champignons, and place them with their juice in a quart stew-pan 
 with one pint of Espagnol sauce; and let the mushrooms boil in the 
 sauce for about ten minutes, and well skim the same. And when 
 dishing place the mushrooms in the centre, and pour the sauce 
 boiling over and round the darioles, and send away. 
 
 Darioles of Beef a la Financiere.—These are prepared the same 
 as the above, with the difference only of using two glasses of good sherry 
 in the sauce, also a little essence of truffles, and the juice from a can of 
 preserved champignons, which should boil in one pint of Espagnol sauce 
 till the sauce is reduced to its proper consistence, with a ragout finan¬ 
 ciere served in the centre, consisting of cockscombs, sliced truffles, 
 mushrooms, and a few quenelles, which should be mixed together and 
 dished in a pile ; and then a little of the sauce poured over the same; 
 and at the last thing, when sending away, pour the sauce, boiling hot. 
 
272 EPIGRAM OF LAMB WITH PURfiE OF PEAS. 
 
 over the darioles and the remainder round them, taking care the sauce 
 is equally divided between the two entrees when serving. 
 
 Epigram of Lamb with Puree of Peas.—Cut twelve cutlets of 
 lamb from the neck with a bone in each ; they should be cut full, as 
 they are to be served as a plain sautd, and mark them in a saute-pan 
 with a little clarified butter under them. Then having previously 
 braized two breasts of lamb till quite tender, and removed the bones 
 from the same, and placed them to press between two dishes, with 
 a seven-pound weight on the top dish (which, let me remark, should 
 have been done the day previous), now cut from these breasts twelve 
 nice cutlet-shaped pieces, which should be cut or trimmed into shape 
 and size to match, the twelve cutlets which you have already 
 prepared. When you have trimmed them egg and bread-crumb them, 
 and mark them on a plain dish with a few crumbs under them. When 
 serving these for your dinner, fry off the bread-crumbed scollops cut 
 from the braized breasts in some clean hog’s lard ; and the best way 
 is to place six at a time in your wire frying-basket, and fry them of a 
 light brown colour, taking care your fat is not too hot; and fry a bit of 
 bread first to try your fat, and if that fries nice and brown, you may be 
 sure it will do the same with the scollops from the breast. Place 
 them on a wire seive as you do them, and keep the same before the 
 range fire till you need them. Then saute your twelve cutlets cut from 
 the neck by placing the saute-pan on the hottest part of the hot¬ 
 plate, and then attending to them carefully. And when you see they 
 are done pour off the butter from them, and add two spoonfuls of 
 Espagnol sauce, and let them simmer in this for a couple of minutes, 
 sprinkling a little pepper and salt. Then dish them on two borders of 
 potato paste which you have placed in your entree dishes, and dish 
 them in the following manner:—Begin with a scollop or cutlet from the 
 breast , then follow with a plain cutlet from the neck , and so on alter¬ 
 nately till you have used or dished six of each on each dish, when they 
 should be covered over and placed in the hot part of the screen. And 
 before serving place in the centre of each a pile of puree of peas, which 
 should be prepared as follows :—Boil off one quart of fine peas (some¬ 
 what mealy) in two quarts of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt 
 
LAMB SWEETBREADS EN FRITOT. 
 
 273 
 
 and two pieces of soda about the size of two peas in the same, and a 
 good bunch of fresh mint. Be particular to let them boil rather fast, 
 and cook them well. When done and strained off, rub them with a 
 wooden spoon through a hair sieve, and place the pur6e thus obtained 
 in a small stewpan, adding a spoonful of white sauce to the same, 
 which should be well mixed with the puree and then divided between the 
 two entrees. And one pint of boiling Espagnol sauce (allowing half a 
 pint for each entree) should be poured round them before sending to 
 table. 
 
 Epigram of Lamb with Asparagus Peas. —These are prepared 
 the same as the above, using asparagus peas instead of a puree of 
 natural peas, which are prepared as follows :—Take a bundle of fine sprew- 
 grass and break off the green part as far as they are tender—which is 
 about half way down each stalk of the sprew-grass. Then with the back 
 of your small knife scrape off the leaves that show on that part of each 
 green stalk which you have broken off. When these are all prepared, 
 then carefully cut off the heads of the sprew, letting them be of the same 
 length; then cut up the remainder of the green tender stalks into the 
 size of fine natural peas. (Keep and cook the points separately.) 
 And let me add, both the points, and what is called the peas, should be 
 boiled till tender in about one quart of water, with half a teaspoonful of 
 salt in each stewpan, and a piece of soda as big as a pea in each. They 
 will require attention, so as not to over-cook either the points or the 
 peas, and instantly you find them tender strain them on a hair sieve, and 
 pour a little cold water over them, after which place them in two small 
 stewpans with a couple of tablespoonfuls of good gravy with each. When 
 wanted make them hot and divide the peas between the two entrees, and 
 on the top of the peas place the points, and serve very hot. Serve 
 Espagnol sauce with them. 
 
 You can also serve epigram of lamb with tomato sauce, piquant 
 sauce, or white sauce ; also mushrooms or French beans, or macedoine 
 roots for the centre. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads en Fritot with Sauce of Tomatoes.— 
 
 Take twenty heart sweetbreads of lamb as near the same size as possible, 
 
 trim them, and then let them lie in warm water for about two hours, 
 
 T 
 
274 LAMB SWEETBREADS PANLE A LA MACEDOINE. 
 
 changing the water several times (about three quarts of water will prove 
 sufficient), and by this method any blood remaining in them will be 
 extracted; after which, place them in a stewpan containing about two 
 quarts of boiling water, and let them boil for about twenty minutes, 
 when place them in cold water till cold; then the pith, generally found 
 at the bottom of each should be removed, also any surplus fat that may 
 hang about them. 
 
 Then prepare a fritter batter from one pound of flour (for which, see 
 the quarterly Index in the number for March). Prepare also one pint 
 of sauce of tomatoes (for which, see the Index in same number). 
 
 When about to send to table—or, in better words, to prepare them for 
 that purpose — place sufficient clean lard to fry them in to become nice 
 and hot. Then toss the breads in a little flour, and dip the lamb sweet¬ 
 breads into the batter ; and take care to see that the fritter batter is at 
 the right point of thickness, which should be so that it will nicely mask 
 each sweetbread, and not too thickly. Fry off about seven at a time, 
 and as you dip and mask each one place them gently into the hot lard, 
 and do not let them come in contact with each other as you place them in 
 the same ; after a minute or so, with a small slice, observe how they 
 are cooking, and move them gently to and fro, and when you see them 
 of a light brown colour remove them, and place them on a wire sieve on 
 the side of the dripping-pan, where they will keep hot. When all fried, 
 and have been drained free from fat, dish them in a pile in the centre 
 of two entree dishes, placing a small ball of potato paste on each dish, 
 and round this pile up the fried lambs’ breads. They should be kept 
 nice and hot till they are called for, when the sauce, boiling hot, should 
 be poured round each pile, using half for each dish. The covers 
 should not be placed over them at any time, as such would injure the 
 batter. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads Panee a la Macedoine. —Prepare the 
 
 lambs’ sweetbreads exactly the same as the foregoing, but instead of 
 frying them in batter, egg and bread-crumb them the same as cutlets, 
 using half whole eggs and half yolks for this purpose, but let the sweet¬ 
 breads be tossed in a little flour before egging, which do with the 
 aid of an egg brush, masking them one at a time on a plate before 
 
SCOLLOPS OF VEAL PANtE A L’lTALIENNE. 
 
 275 
 
 placing them in the bread crumbs, and patting each bread between your 
 hands as you do them, so as to cause the bread crumbs to thoroughly 
 adhere to each bread. 
 
 When about to fry them for dinner, place seven at a time in your 
 frying-basket of wire, and fry them of a nice light brown colour, and 
 place them as you fry them on a wire sieve on one side of the dripping- 
 pan, to keep hot. When all are fried, dish them upon the entree dishes, 
 on a border of potato paste (for which, see page 63 in the number for 
 February), and serve in the centre of each a macedoine of vegetables, 
 which should be prepared as follows :—Open a pint of macedoine roots, 
 straining off the liquid, and put them in a quart of boiling water, with a 
 little salt in it; let the macedoine vegetables boil up, and then strain 
 them in a pointed tin strainer, and place them in a small stewpan, with 
 a couple of tablespoonfuls of best stock and a little sugar and salt, when 
 taste, and if sufficiently tender they will do; but it is well to let them 
 stew for a couple of minutes in the gravy; then divide them between 
 the two entrees, making a pile of them in the centre of each dish and 
 at the last thing, pour round them about one pint of Espagnol or 
 bechemelle sauce, which should be divided between the two entrees. 
 You can also serve them with a piquant, poivrade, or tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 Scollops of Veal Panee a l’ltalienne. —Cut the fillet out of a 
 
 fine neck of veal in its entirety. Then turn it upside down, when the 
 
 lean fillet will be presented to your view. And now with a nice sharp 
 
 knife and the fillet laid lengthwise before you, commence at the thick 
 
 end to cut off about eighteen nice scollops about as thick as a crown 
 
 piece, and as you cut through to the skin at the bottom, turn up the edge 
 
 of your knife, and by this movement cut the scollop from the skin, and 
 
 arrange them as you do them on a china dish. And when all are cut 
 
 they should be neatly trimmed into circular pieces; when some veal 
 
 quenelle should be made from these trimmings, and from any other 
 
 tender parts of the neck (for which, see the Index in the March number). 
 
 Then chop a small handful of picked parsley, or rather parsley with the 
 
 stalks picked off, with a half-pint can of preserved champignons and 
 
 the leaves from a few sprays of green lemon thyme. When these are 
 
 T 2 
 
276 SCOLLOPS OF VEAL WITH SAUCE OF TOMATOES. 
 
 chopped very fine indeed, mix one-third part with the quenelle which 
 you have prepared from your trimmings of veal, adding also two yolks 
 of eggs; and with this mixture mask over your scollops. And when all 
 are thus prepared, dip them into three whole eggs and three yolks of 
 eggs, which have been well beaten together with a little salt. And let 
 me add, they should be very lightly dipped in the prepared eggs, and 
 then they should be placed in some newly-made bread crumbs and 
 gently patted between the hands. And during this operation one of 
 your kitchen assistants should assist you—one dipping the scollops into 
 the eggs, and one into the bread crumbs; and after all have been bread- 
 crumbed they should be patted with your knife and made as round as 
 possible in shape, and placed on one or two saute-pans with sufficient 
 clarified butter under them to fry them, when rounds of paper should 
 be placed over them, and then placed aside till you need them. 
 Then cut sixteen scollops of streaky bacon into three-inch lengths, 
 from which trim off the rough parts, and place these on a saute- 
 pan, which place beside the scollops. Then proceed to make the 
 sauce h. l’ltalienne as follows :—Put the remainder of the chopped 
 mushrooms, parsley, and thyme in a quart stewpan with two glasses of 
 sherry and one pint of Espagnol sauce, and let them boil gently for 
 about ten minutes, when skim the same and add a little pepper and 
 salt, when it is ready for use. When the scollops are required for dinner 
 the saute-pan containing them should be placed over that part of the 
 hot-plate which is most hot, and you should saute them of a nice light 
 brown colour. Then draw them aside and fry the scollops of streaky 
 bacon, which should be dried on a cloth and then placed on a dish and 
 glazed on each side. After which dish your two dishes of scollops on 
 borders of potato paste, placing a piece of the bacon between or on each 
 scollop, and serve half a pint of plain boiled peas in the centre of each. 
 And when asked for pour your Italian sauce, boiling hot, round them and 
 send away; but care should be taken that the same should be equally 
 divided between the two entries. 
 
 Scollops of Veal with Sauce of Tomatoes. —These should 
 be prepared exactly in the same manner as the above, with the 
 exception of the sauce and the garniture for the centre; which 
 
FRICASSEE OF FOWL A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 2 77 
 
 should be sauce of tomatoes instead of Italian sauce, and French 
 beans, which should be shred very fine and used instead of plain 
 boiled peas. 
 
 Fricassee of Fowl a la Franqaise. —Take three best quality 
 young fowls, as white as possible, and prepared for cutting, and singe 
 them over the flame of some lighted paper, to burn off any hairs found 
 upon them. After which, with your small knife remove the young feathers 
 forming upon the same; this last should be most particularly attended 
 to before cutting up the fowls. Then proceed as follows:—Cut off 
 the legs just above the leg-joint, also the pinions ; then holding the fowl 
 on its side, clasp the leg tightly with the fingers so as to draw together 
 the skin; then with your knife cut round the skin of the same, so as 
 not to encroach zipon that which covers the breast; which should be 
 left as full as possible And then separate the same at the joint by 
 which it is fixed to the back, and remove the same, and do the same on 
 the other side; after this cut the back bone from the breast. Then 
 proceed and do the other two fowls the same. After this remove the 
 thigh-bone from what we will call the legs of each fowl, and tuck in the 
 flesh round the drumstick, as it is named. And make each leg into the 
 shape of a miniature leg of mutton, which arrange round the inside of a 
 three-quart stewpan. Then cut the backs in two and place these and 
 the pinions in the centre of the stewpan, also the necks, the livers, 
 and the gizzard, taking care the gall is removed from the livers. And 
 now cut one onion very fine and the white part of a small head of 
 celery, and the yellow part cut very thin from one carrot. Then prepare 
 a bouquet of thyme and parsley and bay-leaf, which place over the 
 rough parts of the fowls ; and on the top place the three breasts in their 
 full entirety making them fit as closely in the stewpan as possible. 
 Then cover them with cold water, and place the stewpan to 
 boil on a rather hot part of the hot-plate. When it boils let it 
 continue to do so for five minutes only. Then place a hair sieve 
 over a kitchen-pan and turn the whole that is in the stewpan into 
 the sieve; and pick out the prime parts—namely, the legs, the 
 thighs, and the breasts—and place these in cold water; then 
 put back the rough parts in the stewpan, also the vegetables and 
 
278 
 
 FRICASSEE OF FOWL A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 liquor in which they have been stewing, and place again on the hot¬ 
 plate to gently simmer for another hour, adding a half pint of water to 
 the same ; and while such is proceeding, wash the parts of fowl which you 
 put in cold water, very clean from any portion of scum that may adhere 
 lo them, when dry them on a cloth, and then cut the breasts in the 
 following manner: — Cut with exact precision the two side pieces 
 from the breast, which should contain the pinion bones, then cut with 
 a very sharp knife the centre part of the breast in two pieces of ecmal 
 size; and when I speak of exact precision, I mean that the pieces cut 
 from the breast of each fowl should be cut of the same size , and thereby 
 look all the better when dished, as when served upon the plates of 
 those who will partake of the same. The legs may also require 
 a little trimming into shape; and when all the pieces have been so 
 trimmed place in a clean stewpan—-the pinions in the centre, the legs 
 round the sides, the centre of the breast upon the pinions, and the 
 side pieces of the breasts round the last mentioned; then add half 
 a pint of best white stock with the same, and mark off in the larder 
 till required for dishing up. 
 
 And now, to be consecutive, we will suppose the trimmings of 
 fowl have been stewing for an hour. So strain off the liquor from 
 the same; and bear in mind the quantity of sauce when finished 
 for two dishes of fricassee should be one pint, so measure what 
 stock you have obtained from the trimmings, and if you have not 
 one pint add sufficient white stock to make it so; and when this 
 is added take two full tablespoonfuls of white roux, which place 
 in a quart kitchen-pan, and at first pour about one gill of boiling 
 stock over this; then, with a wire whisk, mix the roux and stock 
 together, adding as you do so another gill of hot stock, and when 
 this is well mixed add the remainder of the pint of stock; and 
 having mixed the stock and roux well together place on the fire to 
 boil, stirring it with a wooden spoon till it does so, when place it 
 where it will gently simmer ; and when the butter rises of which the 
 roux was made, remove the same, and then reduce the sauce to that 
 point which when finished will be as thick as double cream ; when 
 draw it aside, and place three yolks of eggs, with one gill of double 
 
FRICASSEE OF FOWL A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 279 
 
 cream, stirring the same well together, when add to the same about 
 one gill of the reduced sauce, and when these have been well mixed 
 add it to the remainder of the hot sauce and stir together over the 
 hot-plate; when you see the sauce has begun to thicken then strain 
 it through a pointed tin sieve into a kitchen-basin, in which it should 
 be kept stirred for about five minutes, when mark it off (after adding 
 a little cayenne pepper and salt) in a suitable size bain-marie, and 
 place alongside the prepared chicken till it is time to dish it up. 
 When about to dish the fricassees for table prepare a little potato 
 paste for dishing upon (about four potatoes), and place the sauce in a 
 stewpan, with half a pint of water round it, with a little paper folded 
 several times under the sauce, or the bain-marie containing the same, 
 and place the stewpan containing the fowls and that with the sauce to 
 slowly become nice and hot. Then place on a china dish three of 
 the legs of fowl, and three pieces cut from the side of the breast 
 containing the pinion bones; and three pieces cut from the centre 
 of the breasts, also three pinions. Then place a round ball of potato 
 paste about the size of an egg in each entree dish, which should 
 spread out till about a quarter of an inch thick, in the centre of 
 which place the three pinions; then leaning against these place the 
 three legs with the bones inward; then place three pieces of the 
 breasts between the legs, and on the top the three side pieces from 
 the breasts, dished so as to leave a slight opening between them ; 
 ■when cover them over and place them in the screen to keep hot 
 till asked for, and have ready to hand one pint of fresh boiled 
 young peas. Then look to the sauce for the chickens, and stir it 
 up a little with a spoon, and make sure it is sufficiently thick to nicely 
 mask the pieces of chicken, and when asked for pour half the sauce 
 into another small stewpan, and with one part nicely mask one entree, 
 placing round the same three piles of peas, and serve the other the 
 same, when cover them up and send away; but a few peas should 
 also be placed on the top of each before sending away. And you 
 can, if you please, use instead of the peas a half pint of macedoine 
 vegetables, or a few sliced truffles, or a few finely-shred French beans, 
 or a few plainly-dressed tomatoes (three or four to each dish), which 
 
280 
 
 SAUTE OF FOWL a LA MARENGO. 
 
 should be simply placed in the oven for about five minutes before 
 you need them, and when tender they will do. 
 
 Saute of Fowl a la Marengo. —Singe and cut up three best 
 quality fowls the same as the above, placing the backs and rough parts 
 aside, and the prime parts, after you have nicely trimmed the same, 
 arrange on a well tinned saut6-pan over which you had previously poured 
 about one gill of salad oil, and let the pieces of fowl be placed on this 
 with the skin part downward; then let them sautd very slowly over a part 
 of the hot-plate of steady heat, and when one side shows of a nice bright 
 brown colour, turn them over and cook the other side the same; and when 
 you see they are equally done, place the pieces in a three-pint stewpan; 
 pour out the oil from the saute-pan and add a couple of tablespoonfuls 
 of second stock, and let it simmer in the saute-pan for three minutes, so 
 as to obtain any essence of chicken adhering to the same, which pour 
 over the fowls ; then add about three parts of a pint of Espagnol with two 
 glasses of sherry, with a couple of tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce or 
 puree, and let the fowls gently stew in this for about ten minutes ; 
 when mark them off, adding eight truffles, cut up in very thin slices, and 
 about three parts of a pint tin of champignons. And let me state, 
 when you have cut up the fowls and trimmed the same, the rough 
 trimmings and the back should have been placed on the fire in 
 a quart stewpan, with about half a pint of second stock, closely 
 covered down, and allowed to gently simmer as long as possible, 
 and at the last thing strained and reduced to a half glaze; and the 
 essence of or from the champignons should be placed with the 
 trimmings from the fowls, and at the last thing this half glaze should 
 be added to the sauce containing the fowls; and when about to dish 
 up the saute of fowls, arrange the pieces on a china dish and dish 
 them up in the same manner as you did the fricassee of fowls, w r hen 
 strain the sauce from the mushrooms and truffles, which arrange in two 
 piles for each dish. They should be then placed, covered over, in the 
 screen till called for, when the sauce, boiling hot, should be gently 
 poured over the fowls with a spoon, dividing the prepared sauce between 
 the two dishes, also the sliced truffles and champignons, and serve. 
 
MILLEFRUIT CREAMS. 
 
 28 l 
 
 ENTREMETS OF CREAMS, 
 
 FOR WHICH THE CALCULATION WILL BE FOR TWO QUART MOULDS, FOR 
 A DINNER OF SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 Millefruit Creams. —Put one ounce and a half of pied de veau 
 gelatine to soak for ten minutes in a pint of water, after which strain it 
 on a hair sieve; then place one gill of water in a pint stewpan, and put 
 it to boil on the hot-plate; when it does, place in the same the gelatine 
 which has been in soak, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it boils and 
 is thoroughly dissolved ; when place it aside for the present. Then whip 
 one pint and a half of very fresh and best quality cream till it is firm 
 and light, like meranque, when place it on a sieve (a hair sieve). Then 
 cut up about six ounces of preserved fruit, which should consist of as 
 many kinds as possible. In that quantity, the fruits which would serve 
 best would be pineapple, greengage, apricot, and cherries ; and these 
 should be cut into small square dice, then obtain a good handful of 
 elderflower blossoms, which should be picked off the green stalks, and 
 let boil in three parts of half a pint of syrup, which should be closely 
 covered down and allowed to gently simmer for about ten minutes, 
 when it should be strained through a pointed tin strainer and pressed 
 closely with a wooden spoon so as to extract all the flavour from the 
 elderflowers. And these little matters so far prepared, take two hand¬ 
 some jelly moulds of a quart size with flutes in them, and place them 
 in a kitchen-pan with a little ice round the moulds; then have about 
 half a pint of melted calf’s foot jelly, but not hot; and now arrange 
 some fresh fruit round the bottom of each mould as they show to you 
 —the fruit to consist of strawberries, grapes, and red and white currants, 
 with a peach or a couple of apricots; these (cutting up and peeling the 
 peach and apricots) should be arranged neatly and with taste, when a 
 little of the melted jelly should be poured over the fruit lightly; and 
 when this has set so as to keep the fruit firmly where placed, then 
 pour more jelly over the fruit—sufficient, in fact, to nicely cover 
 the same. And while the same is becoming firmly set, proceed to 
 mix and make the creams as follows :—Add the elderflower syrup 
 to the prepared gelatine, and also two small wineglasses of mara- 
 
2 82 
 
 APRICOT CREAMS. 
 
 schino and four tablespoonfuls of powdered lump sugar, also the 
 fruit cut into dice; then all the items named should be placed 
 on the fire and stirred till the gelatine has become quite melted, 
 and all that was added to it quite warm , when pour k into a 
 three-quart stewpan; and now wfith a wire whisk stir into this 
 one-half the cream which you placed on the hair sieve, and when 
 you have well but gently mixed this with the other ingredients then add 
 the remaining cream and stir in quickly; then fill up the two quart 
 moulds, which you ornamented, with the same, and place a little more 
 ice round the moulds, when put them in the larder till you are ready 
 to turn them out for table, which do as follows :—Obtain half a pail of 
 warm water, and taking one of the moulds in your right hand dip it 
 right into the water so as to completely cover it, when it should be 
 quickly withdrawn and the mould dried in a cloth; then holding the 
 mould between the two hands (the bottom part of the mould in the 
 centre of the left hand), shake it gently, and when you feel it is loose 
 turn it on to the centre of the dish upon which it is to go to table, and 
 turn out the other mould in the same manner, and when asked for, send 
 to table. But of late it is the custom to ornament the base of both 
 creams and jellies with a border of croutons of triangular shape of some 
 rose coloured jelly, which is done in the following manner : — Place 
 about three parts of a pint of liquid jelly in a plain round or oval 
 mould and place it in a pan with some ice round it; and when you have 
 turned out your moulds of cream then turn out your pink jelly on to a 
 napkin which you have dipped in water and wrung out as dry as possible, 
 which double, and on this turn out the pink jelly, which cut into neat 
 triangular-shaped croutons about a quarter of an inch thick and three- 
 quarters of an inch long, and cut of the same size, which place evenly 
 round the base of your moulds. And you can place some plain jelly 
 also in a plain mould, and cut some croutons from this also, and place 
 them alternately with the pink croutons. But it is necessary your jelly 
 for this purpose should look quite brilliant, and when so, on a bright 
 silver dish they look extremely well. 
 
 Apricot Creams. —Open a pint can of preserved apricots, or take 
 sixteen ripe apricots, and place these in a stewpan with a gill of water 
 
GINGER CREAMS. 
 
 283 
 
 and half a pound of powdered sugar, and let them gently boil ten 
 minutes; and while doing so whip a pint and a half of very fresh double 
 cream, the same as for the millefruit creams, and place one ounce 
 and a half of pied de veau gelatine in soak in a pint of cold water. 
 Then look at the apricots, and if quite tender (which you can ascertain 
 by placing a few on a plate and feeling them with your finger), rub 
 them through a hair sieve and place them in a three-quart stewpan, to 
 which add the juice of two lemons and a wineglass of brandy. Then 
 put a gill of water on the fire to boil and, when it does boil add the 
 soaked gelatine, which should be previously strained ; and then stir with 
 a small wooden spoon on the hot-plate till it has boiled and is quite 
 dissolved ; when it should be added to the puree of apricots, and then 
 place the apricots on the fire to become warm. Then, having previously 
 ornamented two quart jelly moulds with fruit in them, after the manner 
 of the mould for the millefruit creams, proceed to mix the whipped 
 cream with the prepared apricots ; but be particular to taste the apricots 
 before adding the cream, and if you think a little more sugar is needed, 
 add the same. Then mix the whipped cream thoroughly with the warm 
 apricots and fill the two ornamented moulds with the same. And when 
 needed for table, turn them out of the mould in the same manner as 
 instructed for the millefruit creams and send to table. 
 
 Ginger Creams.— Place an ounce and a half of pied de veau 
 gelatine in a pint of cold water to soak for twenty minutes; and then 
 bruise two ounces of dry Jamaica ginger in the mortar. Then place 
 it in a pint stewpan with half a pint of water and a quarter of a pound 
 of pounded sugar, and let slowly simmer on the fire for half an hour to 
 extract the flavour. And while this is proceeding whip a pint and a 
 half of very fresh cream till firm, like meranque, Then place it on a hair 
 sieve. Then take two quart jelly moulds, which have been steeped in 
 boiling water, and, when wiped out with a dry cloth, place them in a 
 kitchen-pan with a little ice round them, and pour in each a gill of 
 brilliant calf’s feet jelly made of a pale rose tint, and in this arrange a 
 little mixed fruit, such as currants, grapes, or strawberries, and when 
 set prepare the ginger cream as follows :—Cut up in thin slices a small 
 bottle of preserved ginger (a half-pint bottle will be ample for the two 
 
284 
 
 NOYEAU CREAMS. 
 
 moulds) and pour the syrup into the raw ginger stewing on the fire, which 
 should be afterwards strained—that is to say, the syrup from the same 
 strain it into a pint stewpan, and then strain on a sieve the gelatine 
 which has been in soak, which add to the syrup from the ginger, and stir 
 over the hot-plate till the gelatine is quite dissolved, and let it come to 
 the boil; when add your preserved ginger which you have cut up and 
 four ounces more sugar, when taste the same, and if nicely palatable stir 
 into the same the whipped cream, which should be well mixed with the 
 
 1 
 
 ginger ; then fill the two ornamented moulds with it, tapping the moulds 
 on the dresser as you fill them, so that they will show smooth when 
 turned out ; then place them back in the kitchen-pan, with a little more 
 ice round them, and place in the larder till ready for use, when turn 
 them out as before described, and send them to table. 
 
 Chocolate or Coffee Creams.—Dissolve six ounces of choco¬ 
 late or half a pint of strong extract of coffee in one gill of boiling water, 
 to which add one and a half ounces of gelatine, which has been 
 strained after having been in soak for twenty minutes, also six ounces 
 of powdered lump sugar. Let the whole of the above ingredients come 
 to the boil, when remove them to the dresser, and ornament two moulds 
 as for the preceding, or as your own fancy may dictate; then feel the 
 chocolate mixture, and stir it well together, and if still a little warm , 
 then mix in thoroughly the whipped cream, taking due care it is the 
 same colour throughout ; after which, as quickly as possible, fill in the 
 two ornamented moulds, taking care to tap them on the dresser, so that 
 the creams will show smooth when turned out. When needed, turn them 
 out as previously instructed. 
 
 Noyeau Creams. —One ounce and a half of gelatine, six ounces 
 of sugar, one pint of very fresh cream, three parts of half a pint of French 
 noyeau. Dissolve the gelatine in one gill of boiling water, then add the 
 six ounces of powdered sugar and the noyeau; and if still slightly 
 warm, and your two quart moulds are ornamented, then mix in the 
 cream after the same manner as for the preceding creams; and as you 
 will or may perceive, by adding the other various items in a slightly warm 
 state , the cream will more readily blend or mix together, and enable you 
 to more easily fill the moulds with the mixture. Place a little ice round 
 
ITALIAN CREAMS. 
 
 285 
 
 the moulds, and place the kitchen-pan containing them in the larder 
 till needed for table, when turn them out of the moulds on to the dishes 
 selected, by dipping them in warm water, as directed for the preceding 
 creams, and send to table. 
 
 Raspberry or Strawberry Creams. —You will require about 
 three parts of a pint of the fruit when made into a pur6e— 
 that is to say, after the fresh fruit has been picked and rubbed 
 through a sieve—which should be placed in a kitchen-pan with 
 the juice of two lemons. Then place one ounce and a half 
 of soaked gelatine in one gill of boiling water with six ounces 
 of pounded sugar, and stir these over the hot-plate till boiling; 
 then mix with the puree of fruit, adding about two tablespoonfuls 
 of prepared cochineal, and mix well together, and then add one pint of 
 whipped cream; and when well mixed together fill the two moulds, using 
 a small teacup for filling them; and avoid as much as possible the use of 
 tinned utensils in making these creams, or they will obtain a purple 
 tint. Turn out, and send to table as the preceding. 
 
 Pineapple Creams.—Open a pint can of preserved slices of pine¬ 
 apple, which cut in dice about the eighth of an inch square, cutting away 
 any brown specks on the pineapple. When cut up place them in a pint 
 stewpan, with the syrup which was in the canister with the pineapple, 
 and add one gill of water and six ounces of powdered sugar, and let 
 gently simmer for ten minutes. Then add to this pineapple, one ounce 
 and a half of soaked gelatine, which has drained on a hair sieve for a 
 few minutes; and when thoroughly dissolved, taste it, and if palatable, 
 pour the same into a five-pint stewpan, and then well mix in with your 
 wire whisk one pint and a half of whipped cream, and fill two quart jelly 
 moulds (which have previously been ornamented) with the sime; and 
 when needed take them from the ice and turn them out, and send to 
 table as the preceding. 
 
 Italian Creams.—Rub eight fragrant lemons on a two-pound lump 
 of sugar, which scrape from the same (I mean the zest left thereon). 
 Then squeeze the juice from the eight lemons, which add to the zest. 
 Then place one ounce and a half of soaked gelatine which has been 
 drained on a sieve, in one gill of boiling water in a quart stewpan. Stir 
 
286 
 
 ORANGE CREAMS. 
 
 on the fire till dissolved, then add one wineglass of brandy and two of 
 sherry to the same, with six ounces of powdered sugar ; let come to the 
 boil, then add the zest of the eight lemons, also their juice; and when 
 slightly warm , stir in a pint and a half of whipped cream, and fill two quart 
 jelly moulds with the same which have been previously ornamented, and 
 turn the creams from the moulds when required, as previously directed. 
 
 Peach Cream. —Open a quart can of American peaches, and keep 
 back four halves to ornament the moulds with, then cut up the remainder 
 in small pieces and place them on the fire to boil till tender with one 
 gill of water, and when quite a pulp rub them through a hair sieve and 
 place the puree in a five-pint stewpan with a wineglass of brandy and 
 one of maraschino, also six ounces of powdered sugar and one ounce 
 and a half of soaked gelatine, and place on the fire to boil, and quite 
 dissolve the gelatine, and mix in when only lukewarm one pint and a half 
 of whipped cream and fill two quart jelly moulds which have been 
 ornamented with slices of the two halves of a peach which you kept 
 back, and which should be placed at the bottom of each mould, and a 
 gill of brilliant jelly placed over the same in each mould. When place 
 in a pan with ice round them. And when needed turn them out of 
 the moulds as previously instructed, and send to table. 
 
 Vanilla Cream. —Cut up two sticks of vanilla and pound them in 
 a mortar with six ounces of sugar, in lumps, till quite fine, and then sift 
 through a hair sive, and place the rough parts aside for other purposes. 
 Then dissolve one ounce and a half of gelatine, which has been 
 previously soaked, in three parts of a half pint of boiling water, add 
 the pounded vanilla and sugar to this, and when well mixed together 
 mix in one pint and a half of whipped cream, and fill two ornamented 
 quart moulds with the same, and place aside till needed, with ice round 
 them. The moulds should be ornamented. 
 
 Maraschino Creams.—Are made the same as noyeau creams, 
 using the same quantity as noyeau. 
 
 Orange Creams.—The same as Italian creams, using oranges 
 instead of lemons, but leave out the sherry wine and use an extra glass 
 of brandy instead. 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 (FOR JULY), 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Consomme of Fowl a la Financiere. 
 
 Potage a la Flollandaise. 
 
 ( Two Fish.) 
 
 Quenelles of Haddock en Matelote Normand. 
 
 Scollops of Salmon a l’Americaine (cold). 
 
 (Four Entrees.) 
 
 Quails Farcies a la Financiere en Aspic (cold). 
 
 Heart Sweetbreads of Veal Piquee aux Champignons. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Roast Fore Quarter of Lamb a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Capons and Tongue a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Ducklings. Roast Leverets. 
 
 ( Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Seakale a l’Espagnol Sauce. Young Peas au Natural. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Soufflee Glacee a la Vanille. 
 
 Savarin Parisienne, with Compote of Cherries. 
 
 (Four Entremets.) 
 
 Jellies a la Victoria. 
 
 Chartreuses of Strawberries en Surprise. 
 
 (Two Savoury Entremets.) 
 
 Rissolettes au Parmesan a la Duchesse. 
 
 Vegetables in Season, Salad, &c. 
 
 (Ices.) 
 
 Pineapple Cream. Strawberry Water. 
 
 Note. — I have not added Whitebait, because it is not always served. Should it 
 be desired, a full description how to dress it will be found in the preceding pages. 
 
 U 
 
290 
 
 GREENGROCER. 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and half veal, and with¬ 
 out bones; three-pound slice of veal ; one ox tongue ; six fine heart 
 sweetbreads; two pounds of gravy beef; seven calfs feet; one prime 
 fore-quarter of lamb, to roast ; one medium size throat-bread. The 
 above to be in the kitchen on the morning of the <\th, with the exception of 
 the quarter of lamb, which should come in on the morning of the 7 th . 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 Three medium size haddocks j three pounds of prime cut of a 
 medium size split salmon ; one gill of live spawn ; two dozen oysters 
 for stewing; two dozen fine prawns ; one medium size lobster; one 
 cwt. of Wenham Lake ice. The above to be in the kitchen on the 
 morning of the 6th, with the exception of the ice and the salmon , which 
 should arrive on the morning of the 7 th . 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Three old hens for soup; nine quails, boned (the bones to be sent) ; 
 three ducklings, to roast; two pounds and a half of pork sausage meat; 
 two leverets, to roast (barded); two capons, trussed for braizing ; a few 
 white livers of poultry, with those from the capons. The quails , the 
 sausage meat , and the livers to be in the kitchen on the morning of the 6 th ; 
 the remainder on the morning of the 7 th . 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Seven pounds of new potatoes (kidneys); four quarts of young peas; 
 two quarts of French beans ; one dish of seakale ; four pounds of old 
 potatoes ; eighteen tomatoes, of medium size (of good colour and ripe); 
 half a bunch of mint ; ditto of parsley; one plain salad; bunch of 
 onions ; ditto young carrots ; six heads of celery ; half a bunch of green 
 lemon thyme; two one-pound baskets of strawberries ; twelve lemons ; 
 a little chervil and tarragon ; one pound and a half of cherries ; three 
 
THE STOCKS. 291 
 
 cucumbers; bunch of turnips. All to be sent in the kitchen on the 
 morning of the 6th. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 One small can of preserved pineapple ; one stick of vanilla; one 
 bottle of truffles ; three pint cans of mushrooms ; one bottle of preserved 
 cockscombs ; two ounces of pistachios; two ounces of pied de veau 
 gelatine ; four pounds of powdered sugar ; one half-book of gold leaf; 
 four pounds of salt butter; three pounds of fresh ; thirty fresh eggs ; 
 three quarts of very fresh double cream; one quart of milk. Two 
 quarts of the cream to arrive on the morning of the 7th. Also one cwt. 
 of ice, and half a cwt. of ice on the morning of the 6th, also the 
 preceding items. 
 
 The Stocks. —Proceed exactly in the same manner in preparing 
 the stocks for the sauces and soups in this number as you did in the 
 instructions for the January Menu pages of this work, with one slight 
 alteration—which is, that you will require aspic jelly stock; and one 
 extra calfs foot is ordered in for this purpose, also an extra old hen; 
 and by taking the hard part of the slice of veal and a little from 
 your soup meat, this can be nicely managed, particularly so as an 
 extra pound of veal cutlets was ordered expressly for this purpose. 
 It would be advisable to read over the previous instructions given, 
 and I feel well assured you will benefit by so doing in preparing 
 the dinners, for which such ample instructions have been given. And 
 without more to say, I shall suppose that all your stocks are duly 
 prepared, also your second stock; and that you have equally divided 
 your best brown gravy into two stewpans, also your best white gravy , 
 and that they are on your hot-plate coming to the boil, and that 
 the ox tongue is cooked, and the fillets from the old hens have 
 been reserved, and your white and brown roux is ready for use. 
 
 Now we will at once proceed to finish the soups, and will imagine 
 
 the stocks are boiling ; and if your best brown gravy is quite clear— 
 
 or, as I before stated, brilliant —measure two quarts into your soup 
 
 bain-marie, also one pint for your best gravy for your roast dishes 
 
 leaving the covers partly open; place them in the larder for the 
 
 U 2 
 
292 
 
 QUENELLES FOR THE SOUP. 
 
 present. And now cut up your white roux, not too small, and place 
 enough in a three-quart stewpan to mix two quarts of white sauce 
 (which should be a good handful); add a little boiling stock at a 
 time (about half a pint), then with a clean whisk stir the stock and 
 roux together till you see it has become smooth and partly melted. 
 Then add more boiling stock ; and so on till two quarts have been 
 mixed; it should be about the thickness of good cream. If not 
 quite thick enough add a little more roux, placing what you think 
 sufficient in a quart basin some of your sauce (not sufficiently thick) 
 to melt it, and make the same become smooth. Then add it to the 
 larger quantity, and let it throw up to its surface the butter with 
 which the roux was made, which it will do by letting it boil very gently. 
 
 The Brown or Espagnol Sauce. — Nov/ proceed to mix the 
 remainder of your best brown gravy (about three quarts); which do 
 precisely as you did white sauce, only using brown roux instead of 
 white ; when mixed, let it boil gently alongside your white sauce till it 
 throws up the butter from the roux. 
 
 The Hollandaise Soup. — Now mix the remainder (or say about 
 two quarts of the remainder) of your white stock with about half the 
 quantity of white roux you used for the white or veloute sauce, and, when 
 it boils, place it alongside the other two sauces to slowly boil, remem¬ 
 bering it is for soup and should be thinner than the sauces. Place any 
 remaining stock in two white kitchen-pans for the present, so as to 
 keep your stove clear. 
 
 Quenelles for the Soup .—For the quails a la financiere, and for 
 the ragout in Matelotte. Take the six filets from the fowls (the old hens), 
 split them in two lengthways, and scrape the flesh from the skin and 
 fibres and rub it through a wire quenelle sieve (after it has been well 
 pounded in the mortar), which one of your assistants should do, and 
 scrape the veal after cutting it in thin lengths, the same as the filets of 
 fowl. When all has been thoroughly well pounded and passed through 
 a wire sieve, then make some panada , and finish the quenelle the same 
 as that from which the quenelles of pheasant was made (see page 15). 
 But make double the quantity there described, as more panada 
 will be needed for quenelles of haddock). The pa?iada should be cold 
 
QUENELLES FOR FINANCIERS RAGOUT. 293 
 
 before mixing. When the quenelle meat is finished prepare half of it in 
 small quenelles as follows, but be most particular that the quenelle 
 though light is compact in its nature, and, to use a kitchen phrase—will 
 stand the fire, which means that it will bear boiling or blanching, and 
 give no sign of losing its compact nature in so doing. 
 
 Quenelles for Soup. —Place a three-quart stewpan of water on 
 the hot-plate to boil, and have on the dresser a quart in a stewpan boil¬ 
 ing hot. Then with two teaspoons model the quantity you require as 
 follows :—Dip one teaspoon in the quenelle meat so as just to fill it 
 with the same; then dip your knife in hot water and smooth the sur¬ 
 face ; then dip your other spoon in hot water and scoop out about 
 three parts of the filled spoon, so that when finished or cooked it 
 resembles one half of a sparrow’s egg. As you do them, drop them 
 into another stewpan containing about one quart of very hot water, 
 and so continue till you have produced about one half pint; then 
 place them beside the hot-plate so that they can cook in the hot water, 
 but not boil. When they are firm you can tell they are sufficiently 
 cooked, and with a perforated spoon remove them on to a hair sieve, 
 and cover half a sheet of paper dipped in water over them, and let 
 remain for the present. 
 
 Quenelles for Financiere Ragout. —Chop two truffles very 
 fine, and mix these with four tablespoonfuls of the same made quenelle. 
 Then make them into round balls, a little less in size than ordinary 
 marbles, in the following manner:—Dust a little flour on your pastry 
 slab, and roll out one spoonful in this dust of flour. Then cut it into 
 the same size pieces as you need, and dusting your hands in flour roll 
 them round in the palm of your left hand with the fingers of your 
 right hand, and place them on a hair sieve ; as you do, dusting a 
 little flour over them, and shaking the sieve now and then, so that 
 they may keep round. When finished, place them gently in 
 hot water, but do not let it boil; after you have so placed them, and 
 when they are sufficiently cooked, place them on the same sieve 
 with the others ; then place those for the soup in about half a pint 
 of your best brown gravy in a small stewpan on the hot-plate, and 
 when boiling place those for the soup in it and let them come to 
 
294 
 
 TO PREPARE THE QUAILS. 
 
 the boil. Then at once remove them, and do the same with those 
 for the financiere ragout, but use second stock for the last-mentioned, 
 and whfn finished place them in the larder, and put the remainder 
 of the quenelle in a small kitchen-pan. Screw a piece of paper over 
 it and place in the larder, and on the ice if you have any, as it will 
 be required on the day of the dinner to dish the cold quails upon. 
 Now look to your stoves, and, if the sauces and the soup show that 
 the butter from the roux has risen, remove the same by skimming 
 it into a basin ; and, if of the right consistence, let each one boil a 
 little quicker and skim them well ; then pass them through a tammy 
 into clean dry basins (the sauces), and the same with Hollandaise 
 soup (partly prepared). But the soup should be placed in a soup bain- 
 marie, and the Espagnol and veloute should be stirred to cause the 
 steam to evaporate, and then be placed in the larder for the present. 
 The stoves being now clear, place half the second stock on the fire to 
 boil down to glaze. 
 
 How to Prepare the Entrees. — Place the six heart sweet¬ 
 breads of veal in a basin with about two quarts of warm water, to draw 
 out any blood that may remain in them. They should be left in water 
 for about one hour, changing the same three or four times. When 
 they show free from blood and look nice and white, place them in a 
 stewpan containing four quarts of boiling water, and allow them to boil 
 about six minutes. Then place them in cold water to cool them ; then 
 drain them on a cloth, and trim away part of the leathery pith which is 
 found always adhering to them ; leaving on them sufficient to hold by 
 while larding them. They should then be placed on a china dish (the 
 smooth side downward) and another china dish placed on top of them, 
 with a fourteen pound weight in the centre of the top dish, and placed 
 in the larder to become cold, and to have an even surface so that you 
 can lard them evenly. 
 
 To prepare the Quails.—Chop the bones of the quails, and 
 place them on the fire with about one pint of second stock. Let slowly 
 boil for one hour and a half, and, while this is progressing, take the 
 nine quails and season them at the opening at the breast and cut off the 
 legs above the thigh joint. Then arrange them on a china dish ready 
 
THE SWEETBREADS OF VEAL. 
 
 295 
 
 for farcing. Then well pound in the mortar the one pound and a 
 half of pork sausage meat, and rub it through a coarse wire sieve. 
 Then chop up six truffles, and add them to the sausage meat, with a 
 little salt and cayenne pepper. Mix well together, and then take two- 
 thirds of the same and divide this into nine equal parts, and place 
 these on a dish (and the third part in a kitchen-pan, when screw 
 a piece of paper over it and put it in the larder). After this, open 
 a tin of preserved fat livers (a small tin). Remove the liver and 
 wash it in luke-warm water, and cut it into nine equal size pieces 
 as near as you can. Now place one part of the prepared sausage meat 
 which you have divided into nine parts in each quail, and a piece of 
 fat liver in the centre of each quail. Make them into a nice plump 
 shape, and cut off the pinions, and bring the skin of the breast to 
 cover the hole through which you passed the farce. Arrange them on a 
 deep saute-pan or in a suitable size stewpan, as you do them. When 
 all are done, place about one gill of stock over them and let them slowly 
 cook in the oven. The stewpan will be the best to cook them in, 
 because you can cover them with the lid of the same; about twenty 
 minutes will cook them if the oven is of a good heat. But take care to 
 cook them sufficiently, and give them another ten minutes if you think 
 they need it; when done let them become cold in their own liquor, 
 and place them in the larder for the present. 
 
 The Sweatbreads of Veal. —Take about one pound of firm fat 
 bacon, and cut it into strips about one inch and a quarter long and not 
 quite an eighth of an inch square. To do this properly the bacon should 
 in the first instance be cut into solid oblong lengths of the width above 
 mentioned, and the lean part cut away. Then cut into slices of uniform 
 thickness, and the slices cut into strips of uniform size (of less than one- 
 eighth of an inch square); as the strips or lengths are cut they should be 
 placed on a stewpan lid, the tinned side upwards, with a little ice beneath 
 it to keep the bacon firm. If you place about five rows of larding, 
 each consisting of five lengths of bacon, it will prove quite sufficient; 
 care to be taken that the larding shows in the centre of each sweetbread. 
 When all the sweetbreads are thus larded, cut up one large onion, one 
 small head of celery, and the yellow part of a carrot. Mix these 
 
296 
 
 ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 together and place in the centre of a saute-pan or stockpot cover, and 
 arrange the bread round them; then cut a slice of thin fat bacon to cover 
 each, and when placed on each pour over them about half a pint of 
 second stock, and place them in the oven for twenty minutes or on the 
 side of the hot-plate (but the oven is the best). Give your best attention 
 to the breads while in the oven, and before placing them there ascertain 
 its heat, and that required should be moderate and not at all likely to 
 burn what is placed to cook in it. Be particular to remove the breads 
 at the time specified, and place them in the larder till you have need to 
 finish them. 
 
 The Calf’s Feet Jelly. — Clean and prepare the calf’s feet stock 
 exactly in the same manner, and finish the jelly in all particulars as 
 described at page eight, and when all has run through the bag, screw a 
 piece of paper over the same, and place in the larder till you use it. 
 
 Aspic Jelly. —Be as particular in removing all signs of oil or fat 
 from your aspic jelly stock as from your sweet jelly stock, and also to 
 thoroughly know it consistence. This you can do by placing a little on 
 the ice. When quite cold and thoroughly set, if it feels, by pressing it 
 between the finger and the thumb, about double the strength or con¬ 
 sistence of sweet jelly it will do. Then make the aspic stock warm. 
 You will require about three pints, and add to this one gill of Tarragon 
 vinegar. Cut up about a small handful of tarragon and chervil, and 
 add sufficient salt and a couple of glasses of sherry and a few pepper¬ 
 corns ; next beat up eight whole eggs, being very particular to smell each 
 one as you crack them, and if any appear the least doubtful cast them 
 aside. Also be particular to wash the eggs if not quite clean, as the shells 
 will be boiled in the jelly. When the eggs are cracked put the shells with 
 them in a two-quart stewpan, and beat them well together before adding 
 them to the aspic jelly, and also after they have been added, so as to 
 thoroughly amalgamate and mix the eggs and jelly together. You should 
 be particular to taste it, and see if it is palatable, as perhaps it may 
 require a little more salt and vinegar. Stir it over the fire till it boils ; 
 then remove it on one side where it will keep hot, but not come to 
 the boil, so as to thoroughly cook the eggs, which will aid its clarification. 
 Before passing it take up a little in a plated spoon, and if the eggs have 
 
QUENELLES OF WHITING. 
 
 297 
 
 a curdled appearance, and the jelly shows brilliant between the curdled 
 eggs, you may be sure it will do. Here let me add, there should always 
 be a separate bag for aspic jelly, but if you cannot obtain one, tie or 
 tack a napkin or cloth on the top of the jelly-stand, or between 
 tw r o chairs, two ends being tied to the back of one chair and two to the 
 back of another ; or you can turn a chair upside down, and tie each 
 corner of the napkin or cloth to one of the legs, taking care that the 
 cloth or napkin has no holes in it, and that it is not too fine in its texture, 
 and that it is or has been well washed in warm water before fixing it to 
 the chair (that turned upside down is best); and before pouring your jelly 
 into it, place it as much in the warmth and out of the draught as possible. 
 Do the same with the aspic as with the sweet jelly—pour about half a 
 pint into the cloth or bag at first, and if this runs perfectly bright be sure 
 it will do, then pass or pour in the remainder; and perhaps you will 
 have to pour back what has run through first, and sometimes to do so 
 twice over. But when you see it running bright, cover the chair with a 
 table cloth and let all run through; then cover the basin containing it 
 with a sheet of paper, and place in the larder till you need it. 
 
 Quenelles of Whiting.—Cut the fillets from the haddocks, and 
 then chop up the bones, and place them on the fire to boil with half a 
 pint of white stock to extract the flavour. Then scrape with your knife 
 the flesh of the fish from the skin from the six fillets; pound these well 
 in the mortar and rub them through a wire sieve; place the same on a 
 plate as you do so, and when all is rubbed through take the same 
 quantity of panada as you have of fish, with one-fourth of fresh butter, 
 and finish the quenelle of whitings exactly the same as for the quenelle of 
 pheasant (see page 15 of this work); and make them into shape with two 
 plated tablespoons, and ornament them with one round of truffles as 
 therein described. After which cook them by boiling, as you did the 
 (we will so suppose) quenelles of pheasant, and when nicely cooked, place 
 them on a hair sieve as you take them from the water with a perforated 
 spoon. After they are done arrange them in a white kitchen-pan 
 Then pour a sufficient quantity of boiling second stock to cover them, 
 taking care the side with the truffle on is downward. Place a round of 
 paper on the top of them, and mark them off in the larder; and make 
 
298 
 
 purBe of tomatoes. 
 
 about eighteen small quenelles with two teaspoons, the same size and in 
 the same manner as those prepared for the Consomme a la Royal. When 
 made and cooked, place them in a small bain-marie and pour a little 
 stock boiling hot over them. The remainder of the uncooked quenelle 
 place in a small white pan, screw a piece of paper over it, and put it in 
 the larder. 
 
 The Essence of Quail and of Haddock. —Add half a pint of 
 brown sauce to the quail bones with a gill of second stock, and let them 
 simmer for another half-hour. Also look to the glaze, and if nearly 
 boiled down, pour it into a pint stewpan, adding one gill of cold water, 
 which will cause the scum to rise, which remove and reduce it to the 
 consistence ready for use. Then place the fat livers to soak in warm 
 water for a couple of hours, changing the water several times, so as to 
 free them from any blood remaining in the same. 
 
 Savoury Custard for Clear Soup. —Part the yolks from eight fresh 
 eggs, add to these one tablespoonful of fresh cream, and three of the 
 best gravy, and a very little salt. Beat well together, and strain through 
 a pointed tin sieve. Then butter a plain charlotte mould, cutting out a 
 round of paper to fit the bottom exactly; butter this also, and place the 
 savoury custard in this and screw a piece of buttered paper over it, then 
 fold a piece of paper in four and place in a quart stewpan, or one a 
 little larger. Add a gill of water to this, and place your mould with the 
 custard in this, and bring to the boil. Then let it gently simmer for ten 
 minutes. Then feel it with your fingers, and if quite firm place it in the 
 larder. 
 
 Note .—You must be very particular, in cooking this custard, to 
 let it simmer very gently indeed , or it will show full of small holes, instead 
 of being, as it should be, quite smooth when cut out for the soup. When 
 done, place in the larder. 
 
 Puree of Tomatoes. —Pull out the green stalks, and cut them 
 through to enable you to squeeze out some of the seeds and the watery 
 part. Then cut them up and place them in a stewpan with one glass of 
 sherry and one of malt vinegar, a full teaspoonful of sugar, and the same 
 of salt, with half a pint of best gravy. Then let them boil slowly till they 
 are quite tender and the moisture is nearly evaporated. About half an 
 
SAUCE EN MATELOTE NORMAND. 299 
 
 hour should be sufficient time to do this. They should then be rubbed 
 through a tammy cloth, and the pulp placed in a kitchen-pan with a 
 little paper screwed over it and placed in the larder till needed. 
 
 THE DINNER SAUCES. 
 
 Sauce en Matelote Normand for Quenelles of Haddock, one pint. 
 
 Ragout en Matelote Normand for Quenelles of Haddock, one pint. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce for Salmon a l’Americaine, one pint. 
 
 Darioles of Tomatoes to garnish Salmon, sixteen. 
 
 Salmi Sauce for masking Quails, half a pint. 
 
 Ragout a la Financiere to garnish Quails, one pint. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce for Heart Sweetbreads of Veal, one pint. 
 
 Champignons to garnish the Sweetbreads, one pint. 
 
 Mint Sauce for Fore-quarter of Lamb, one pint. 
 
 Gravy for the Fore-quarter of Lamb, half a pint. 
 
 Bechemielle Sauce for Capons a la Jardiniere, one pint. 
 
 Gravy for Roast Ducklings, half a pint. 
 
 Sauce for Roast Leverets, half a pint. 
 
 Compote of Cherries for Savarin, one pint. 
 
 Sauce en Matelote Normand. —See that you have a thoroughly 
 good fire in the hot-plate, and place the Espagnol and the veloute sauce 
 in two stewpans to reduce them to their proper point of consistence, 
 dividing one punnet of fresh champignons, after being washed 
 and trimmed and cut in thin slices, between the two sauces. Then strain 
 the essence from the bones of the quails into a quart stewpan adding 
 the gravy also, in which the whole quails were left to get cold in. Then 
 strain the essence from the bones of the haddocks into another stewpan, 
 and place these on the hot plate to reduce, then place the oysters for 
 stewing with half a gill of water in another stewpan to boil, and when 
 they boil, strain the liquor from the oysters into the essence from the 
 bones of the haddocks, placing the oysters in a small kitchen basin, then 
 open a tin of preserved mushroom. Pour the liquor with them into the 
 liquor from the oysters and fish ; to these add one glass of sherry, and 
 
300 
 
 ESPAGNOL SAUCE. 
 
 one pint of your boiling veloute sauce, and let one of your assistants 
 stir this on the hot plate till it is reduced to its proper state of consis¬ 
 tence (which is that of double cream). Then add one gill of cream 
 which should well boil with the sauce, and when it has done so pass 
 through a tammy cloth into a kitchen basin, add a little salt, and very 
 little cayenne pepper, stir these well in, and then mark off in a bain- 
 marie. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce for Salmon. —This sauce being a cold sauce 
 will be finished after the hot sauces. 
 
 Salmi Sauce for Quails. —Add one glass of sherry to the quail 
 essence with a piece of glaze as big as a good sized walnut, and reduce 
 this, stirring the same. It should be reduced a little thicker than brown 
 sauce, and one half pint is all you need. If more is needed add a 
 little more Espagnol sauce and when of the right thickness pass through 
 tammy into kitchen-pan, season, and place in bain-marie, and place with 
 matelote sauce for the present time. 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce. —Now reduce your bechemelle sauce, stirring 
 the same till it is of its proper consistence ; and if you have any white 
 stock left add about one pint to it still stirring the same, and finally 
 adding half a pint of cream letting all boil well together, and when 
 of the thickness of double cream strain through a clean white tammy 
 cloth kept expressly for bechemelle or supreme sauce, and divide it 
 into two suitable size bain-maries and place them beside your other 
 sauces. 
 
 Champignons for Sweetbreads. —Boil one pint can of mush¬ 
 rooms in a little best stock with their juice, for about five minutes. 
 Then place these also in a bain-marie, and mark off with the others to be 
 boiled in Espagnol and seasoned before serving. 
 
 Mint Sauce for Quarter of Lamb. —Pick the best leaves from 
 half a bunch of fresh mint, chop them very fine and add half a pint of 
 malt vinegar and two moderately sized spoonfuls of sugar and half a gill 
 of water. Stir well together then place in bain-marie and mark off with 
 the other sauces. 
 
 Espagnol Sauce. —Reduce to its proper point and strain into 
 a kitchen-pan. Season and mark in a bain-marie. 
 
COMPOTE OF CHERRIES FOR SAVARIN. 
 
 301 
 
 Gravy for Lamb and Ducklings. —Let one pint of best brown 
 gravy which you have in reserve be put on the hot-plate to boil, and 
 when it does so mark it off in a bain-marie with the sauces. 
 
 Sauce for Roast Leverets. —Place two glasses of port wine in a 
 stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, and half a pint of 
 your finished Espagnol sauce. Let boil for about ten minutes. Then 
 strain through a pointed tin sieve and mark it off in a bain-marie with the 
 other sauces. 
 
 Ragout a la Financiere for the Quails. —Open the bottle of 
 truffles and one can of mushrooms, also the bottle of cockscombs, and 
 place them on the fire, then bring from the larder the small round 
 quenelles with chopped truffles in them. Take half the truffles and 
 cut them in slices, and place them on a separate plate. Then mix 
 with these one half the can of mushrooms and all the cockscombs 
 and the whole of the small quenelles (and boil the fat livers of fowls for 
 ten minutes). Then cut them (one half) in slices ; mix all these 
 together and place them in a small stewpan, adding one gill of stock, 
 and bring them to the boil. Then (as they are for the cold entrees of 
 quails and not to be again hot) mark them in a small kitchen basin 
 and cover them with paper, writing their name on the top. Then place 
 them with the other sauces. 
 
 Ragout en Matelote Normand. —Beard the two dozen oysters 
 and place them on a plate. Pick out the prawns and add these to the 
 oysters, also the small spoon quenelles made from the haddocks, and cut 
 up in slices six truffles, which together with the remaining champig¬ 
 nons mix with the oysters, prawns, and truffles. Place these in a small 
 stewpan with one gill of second stock. Bring these to the boil, and 
 mark them to be used in the centre of your quenelles of haddock when 
 sending your dinner to table. 
 
 Compote of Cherries for Savarin. —Take a quill pen and cut it 
 like a fluted chisel, and with this remove the stones and stalks from one 
 pound of nice plump cherries. This is done by slipping the point of the 
 quill into the cherry by the side of the stalk of each cherry, then forcing 
 upwards under the stone, it will come away. When all are done pound the 
 stones in a mortar, and pound them well so as to crack all the stones, or 
 
302 
 
 MAYONNAISE SAUCE FOR SALMON. 
 
 rather smash all of them. Then put them in a stewpan with half a pound 
 of lump sugar and half a pint of water. Let them slowly simmer for ten 
 minutes to extract the flavour from the cherry stones or kernels. Then 
 place the stoned cherries in a quart kitchen basin, next strairrthe smashed 
 cherry stones through a pointed tin strainer over the cherries (it should 
 be poured when the syrup with them is boiling hot), then screw a piece 
 of paper closely over the kitchen basin. Let them stand in the screen 
 for an hour; then strain off the syrup into a stewpan, when this boils, 
 thicken the syrup with one spoonful of corn-flour dissolved in a little 
 water, stirring the syrup with a little wooden spoon or whisk as you pour 
 it in. Then add a few drops of prepared cochineal and a wineglass of 
 French noyeau, and place it with the rest of your sauces. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce for Salmon a 1’Americaine. —Take one 
 pint of fresh salad oil, and place the same in some water with a few small 
 pieces of ice in it for about half an hour before using it. Then a one- 
 quart stewpan, and place this on a little pounded ice in a kitchen-pan. 
 Then place in the stewpan three yolks of very fresh eggs, and take care 
 to have by your side a small and very clean wire whisk, and some 
 Tarragon vinegar, with a little mixed pepper and salt. Then proceed as 
 follows : Sprinkle some pepper and salt (about one quarter of a tea¬ 
 spoonful) over the yolks of eggs. Stir the eggs together, and, holding 
 the bottle of salad oil in your left hand, with your finger partly over the 
 mouth of the bottle, let a little at a time run over the yolks, stirring the 
 same rapidly with the whisk, and still adding more oil and still stirring 
 rapidly with your right hand. When you see that the oil and eggs have 
 begun to mix together, and show a somewhat firm appearance, then still 
 proceed to let a small stream of oil flow from the bottle in your left hand, 
 which is rapidly blended together by the rapid circulation of the whisk 
 in your right hand, and when about half the bottle of oil has been used, 
 and the sauce shows increasing firmness, add about one tablespoonful 
 of Tarragon vinegar which will slightly soften the mayonnaise. Then 
 proceed again as at first, till all the oil has been used, and the sauce 
 shows a nice smooth compact appearance. Then add another spoonful of 
 Tarragon vinegar, mixing the same well into the sauce ; now taste it, and 
 see if it is palatable, if not quite so, add a little powdered sugar (half a 
 
THE TWO SOUPS. 
 
 303 
 
 teaspoonful), also a little cayenne pepper and another half tablespoonful 
 of Tarragon vinegar. Then taste it again, when I expect it will prove 
 quite satisfactory. 
 
 Note .—I have sometimes found this sauce, particularly in hot 
 weather, curdle , a fact which I attribute to the yolks of eggs not 
 being so fresh as they ought to be, or to some defect in the salad oil. 
 But, should such occur, take another quart stewpan (very clean), and 
 place in it one gill of liquid aspic jelly, and with a clean wire whisk beat 
 it till it becomes creamy. Then add your curdled mayonnaise sauce a 
 little at a time, when it will be sure to come all right. If you have no 
 aspic jelly use three spoonfuls of bechemelle sauce in the same manner as 
 the aspic jelly, taking care that the sauce is cold, and that very little of the 
 mayonnaise is added at one time. When the sauce is finished place it 
 in a clean basin and keep it in a cool place, or upon some ice. 
 
 Now that the sauces are all ready take a sheet of foolscap paper, fold 
 it in two lengthways, and cut it in strips one inch and a half wide and 
 about two and a half inches long, and write the name of each sauce in 
 the centre of each slip of paper. Then with your small knife cut a slit 
 an inch long above and below the writing on each slip of paper. These 
 slips should be opposite each other and in the middle of each slip, so 
 that the handle of each bain-marie will pass through, leaving the name 
 of each sauce or ragout clearly to the gaze. Now bring the bain-marie 
 case, and having fixed the name on each, arrange them in the same, and 
 place them in the larder with some ice placed around them. 
 
 The Two Soups. —Now place the soups on the hot plate to boil, 
 so that they can be quite finished. While they are boiling, prepare the 
 following items : Peel one cucumber very thin, and with a round or oval 
 Jardiniere scoop cut out in round balls (about twice the size of a pea) 
 as many as you can from the cucumber, but do not cut too deep so as 
 to reach the seed part. Cut out also about one gill of carrots and 
 turnips with one of your long tin cutters. The carrots and turnips should 
 be about as thick as a pen handle and half an inch long; add also the 
 white part of a few spring onions, cut into shreds like Julienne roots, 
 and place these together with one gill of young peas in one pint of boiling 
 water with a little salt in it. Just let them boil up, then strain them and 
 
304 
 
 THE CLEAR SOUP. 
 
 add one gill of stock to them. Let these boil till they are tender. Now- 
 look to your soups and see if they have begun to boil, and stir the thick 
 soup with a wooden spoon till it does, when draw it aside, and part six eggs 
 and put the yolks in a quart white pan, and beat with them half a pint 
 of very fresh cream, and strain through one of your pointed tin strainers 
 and place back again in the kitchen-pan. Then bring to the kitchen 
 dresser the thick soup, and add to the eggs and cream about one gill at 
 a time, stirring the two together sharply, and keep doing this till you 
 have mixed about one pint of soup with the eggs and cream. Then add 
 that which you have mixed to the remaining soup, mixing the whole well 
 together so as to thoroughly blend the whole. Then stir on the hot 
 plate till nearly boiling, and when you see that the soup has thickened, 
 remove it from the hot plate and add the vegetables which you have been 
 cooking, and if done add them to the soup, letting one of your assistants 
 gendy stir the soup for a few minutes to drive out the steam. Then add 
 a little sugar and salt, and place in the larder, and when required for dinner 
 all that will be further needed is to make it thoroughly hot in the bain-marie 
 case, but by no means place it on the hot plate, or you would spoil it. 
 
 The Clear Soup. — Pick out about half a can of small mushrooms 
 and cut up in very thin slices six truffles and one third of the smallest 
 cockscombs (pick them out from the ragout Financiere). Then cut 
 out the savoury custard, which you put to become cold, in the following 
 manner : With one of your long thin cutters, one size less than a shilling 
 cut out as many round pieces as you can. Then, turning each piece 
 on its side, cut from each as many rounds as possible, cutting each 
 about the thickness of a shilling (by dipping your knife in a little warm 
 water, you can cut them up with greater facility). When finished then 
 bring from the larder the small spoon quenelles which have been 
 prepared for soup, and now collect the above items and place them in the 
 clear consomme and two glasses of sherry and let boil for five minutes, 
 removing any little scum that may arise, and adding a little sugar and 
 salt, taste it and see if all right. 
 
 Note .—Be always very particular not to put too much salt, for you 
 can always add when you cannot take away. This soup is also entirely 
 finished and will require only to be made hot before being sent to table. 
 
THE JARDINIERE FOR THE CAPONS. 
 
 305 
 
 The Jardiniere for the Capons. —Let the remainder of the 
 bunch of carrots, turnips, and onions be prepared as follows, also the 
 cucumber: Peel the young carrots smoothly and cut them in four; then 
 remove a portion of the inside by cutting a part of the yellow away. As 
 you do them, place them in a quart stewpan, and, when finished, proceed 
 with the turnips. Peel these smoothly, and cut away any hard part 
 belonging to the rind. Then divide them into six or eight equal parts 
 (at this season they will be sure not to be very large); form the parts of 
 the turnips into a kind of half-moon shape rounding off the sharp angles, 
 and place these in a stewpan. Then prepare the onions ; (you require 
 only the heads and about one dozen will be sufficient). Cut off the root 
 and a slight portion of the onion with it. Then throw them into boiling 
 water, and let boil for a couple of minutes. Now strain them on a 
 sieve, and throw a little cold water over them, and with your two thumbs 
 remove the first skin and keep them or make them of the same size. Then 
 place these in a stewpan, and now cover the three with boiling water and 
 a little salt in each stewpan, and let them boil about one minute. Then 
 again strain them, and then add a piece of butter, about a teaspoonful 
 to each, and the same of sugar, and a little salt. Cover them again with 
 water and let them stew till tender. While doing so, prepare the 
 cucumber as follows : cut it up in pieces of equal lengths, and cut each 
 piece into four parts, cutting them in half first, and then each half in two 
 pieces, then with your small sharp knife thinly peel each piece ; then cut 
 away the seed and slightly round off each end, and so proceed till each 
 piece has been prepared in the same manner, then throw them into a 
 pint of boiling water with half a teaspoonful of salt; and let them 
 boil for about three minutes, when strain them in a pointed sieve and 
 place them in cold water for a few minutes till they are cold. Then 
 place them in a stewpan with enough stock to cover them, a little salt 
 and sugar, and a piece of butter as big as a walnut, also a spoonful of 
 malt vinegar. Then let them stew till tender, then place all four small 
 stewpans in the larder, still leaving the vegetables in the liquor in 
 which they were cooked till needed. 
 
 Note .—The process of boiling the cucumbers for a time and then 
 
 making them cold, is a process that causes the cucumbers to keep 
 
 X 
 
30 6 
 
 THE BILL OF FARE. 
 
 their colour of a nice bright green, and all green vegetables and green 
 fruits will do the same if so treated. 
 
 The Syrup needed for Ices. — Place two pounds of sugar with 
 one pint of water on the fire in a stewpan. Bring it to the boil, and 
 skim it. Then place it in a kitchen-pan, and cover it with some paper 
 screwed round it; and place it in the larder ready for tomorrow’s use 
 (the day of the dinner, as we will suppose). 
 
 Vanille Sugar for Soufflee Glacee. — Cut one fine stick of 
 vanilla in small pieces, and pound it in the mortar with half a pound of 
 lump sugar; it should be well pounded. Then sift it through a hair sieve, 
 and pound what remains with a little more sugar, and sift this also, and 
 then place it in a bottle, put a cork in it and place in the larder, ready 
 for use. 
 
 Darioles of Tomatoes. —These are to garnish the Scollops of 
 Salmon a PAmericaine. Proceed as follows :—Chop up very fine one 
 truffle, and melt half a pint of aspic jelly, and place in soak one 
 ounce of pied de veau gelatine. Then select eighteen small dariole 
 moulds of equal size. Let them stand in a saute-pan (a deep one), and 
 place a few pieces of ice in the middle of the saute-pan,, and the dariole 
 moulds round them. Then pour a teaspoonful of aspic jelly in each, 
 and place a sprinkle of chopped truffle in each mould, and let them, 
 or the jelly in them, become set. Then add another teaspoonful, and 
 now bring out of the larder the puree of prepared tomatoes. Taste it, 
 and if nice and savoury, add to it sufficient aspic jelly to cause the 
 tomatoes to set or become firm, like an ordinary jelly. The aspic 
 should be thoroughly mixed into the tomatoes. Then place a little in 
 another aspic mould to test its consistence, placing the same as near 
 the ice as possible so that it will set quickly. After a few minutes, 
 press your finger upon it, when, if nice and firm, it will do. Then fill 
 your darioles with the same (they are to form a border on or round 
 the dish upon which you will dish your Scollops of Salmon, and 
 therefore should not by any means be very large). When finished, 
 place them in the larder, as we will suppose, for tomorrow’s use. 
 
 The Bill of Fare. —Now as the day before the dinner (in a 
 figurative sense) has come nearly to a close, a quiet look over the Bill of 
 
THE DAY OF THE DINNER. 
 
 30 ; 
 
 Fare will show that we are as forward as we well can be. The soups, 
 fish, entrees, and ragouts and sauces all ready, or as nearly so as good 
 judgment and discretion will allow us to be, so our final task will be to 
 protect by our knowledge those things we have prepared, and a good 
 pail of ice will aid us to do this. So we will put some more round the 
 sauces in the bain-marie in which they are placed, and let the soups 
 stand in the turbot kettle, and place the remainder of the ice round 
 them, also the remainder of the fish quenelle, also of the chicken 
 and veal quenelle, and duly arrange the quenelles of haddock, the 
 heart sweetbreads, and also the quails, aspic jelly, also the sweet 
 jelly, and boil up any remaining stock that you have left, and 
 place the same in smaller pans. When boiled up, place them in the 
 larder, also the remainder of the prepared sausage meat with the 
 chopped truffles. Be careful also to see if anything further is needed 
 for to-morrrow, and a quiet look through your requisition list will aid you 
 in this matter. And thus for the day our preparations are ended. 
 
 The Day of the Dinner.—We will suppose all things needed 
 are in the kitchen with which to finish the dinner, and to be in due 
 order, we will proceed with the fish; so having three pounds of split 
 salmon before you (a prime cut), divide it as near as you can by cutting 
 it in three equal lengths. Then take each piece and laying it lengthwise 
 before you, cut it into equal size scollops (of a rounded shape some¬ 
 what), but do not let your knife go too near the skin, which partakes of 
 a dark shade. If you cut in a slanting direction to the right, it will be 
 the best; each scollop should be not more than a quarter of an inch 
 thick in the central part, they should be very lightly trimmed, and should 
 be cut into the shape of the inside of a well-formed pear when split 
 in two ; place them as you cut them—which should be as near as pos¬ 
 sible of equal size—in a saute-pan with a little clarified butter spread over 
 the surface. Arrange the first one with the broad end toward the centre 
 and the tapering part slightly curving to the right-hand side; about six¬ 
 teen scollops is the number you will require. When finished moisten 
 them with a little clarified butter placed on each with your butter brush, 
 then butter them; place a round of paper over them and cook them au 
 
 four , as the French would say, which means cooking them in the 
 
 X 2 
 
308 how to dish the quails A la financiere. 
 
 oven; about six minutes should suffice. They should be strictly attended 
 to, and the oven should be of good heat. When done, they should look 
 creamy (which is a fact, as their cream issues from the pores and shows 
 white on the surface) and feel firm to the touch of the finger. Then 
 instantly remove them from the oven, place a round of white paper on a 
 china dish, and with a palette knife very carefully remove each scollop on 
 to the same to become cold. When you dish the same for dinner, turn 
 out the tomatoes from the dariole moulds by dipping each in a little 
 warm water (the same as jellies), and with these form a border on a suit¬ 
 able size oval silver dish. Then take the white part of two or three cos 
 lettuce, cut as fine as possible. Place the lettuce, when cut up, inside the 
 dariole of tomatoes, then dish the scollops on the same, letting them 
 almost touch the darioles of tomatoes, and place between each couple of 
 scollops a slice of thinly peeled cucumber, as thick as a shilling. Then 
 place in the centre of the scollops the cold mayonnaise sauce, and round 
 the base of the darioles of tomatoes a little finely chopped aspic jelly, 
 and pour in the centre half a gill of pure malt vinegar, and a slight pile of 
 chopped aspic jelly in the centre, and serve. 
 
 Note .— This dish should stand on a china dish (large size), and have 
 a little pounded ice round it till the Scollops of Salmon are asked for, 
 when wipe the silver dish and send away. 
 
 How to dish the Quails a la Financiere. — With the remains 
 of the fowl and veal quenelle make two borders of or from the same in 
 the centre of two cold entree dishes, about one inch wide and fluted in 
 the centre. And let me add, a plated tablespoon dipped now and 
 then in very hot water will enable you to do this to perfection. When 
 finished, place both dishes in the oven for a few minutes, and when the 
 quenelle feels firm to the touch, remove the same to become cold. 
 Then place the salmi sauce (in part made from the essence of quails) 
 to melt, and see that the sauce is nicely firm before doing so. While 
 melting, cut the quails in two pieces (through the centre of their length) 
 and place one bone or leg in each half, as near as possible on the spot 
 where it was cut off—making a hole with the point of your small knife 
 and placing the leg-bone in the same, the claw or foot showing outward. 
 When all are thus prepared, look to the sauce which, though needed to 
 
THE FIRST COURSE REMOVES. 
 
 309 
 
 be melted, must not be the least warm. If so, stir on a little ice for a 
 few seconds and then in warm water for equal time. Then mix well 
 together quickly; and when it will mask the point of your finger, place 
 each half quail on a fork, and dip each half in the cold sauce, so as to 
 mask the outside, but not the under part where cut in two. They should 
 be done quickly, but if the sauce should set melt it again, and so proceed 
 till all the half quails are neatly and evenly masked. And it might so 
 happen that you will have to melt your sauce three or four times. Both 
 of these are very artistic dishes, and if well done, will well reward your 
 patience and your labour. As you do them they should be placed on a 
 saute-pan ; and when all are done, melt about one gill of aspic jelly, and, 
 when cold but not anyway set, with a camel’s hair glaze brush, well 
 washed and dried, mask each half quail with liquid aspic by means of 
 the brush. And when cold, with your small knife trim off any surplus 
 sauce or aspic adhering to the edge of each half. Then dish nine halves 
 on each entree dish, the feet topmost, and dish them as you would 
 cutlets, so as to commence to your right hand, and then right round to 
 your left hand, finishing at the right; take pains to dish them firmly and 
 neatly. Then strain off your financiere ragout, and dry it in a cloth, 
 placing it afterwards in a stewpan. Then toss it in some liquid aspic 
 jelly (four spoonfuls), and when the ragout is nicely masked, divide it 
 between the two entrees of quails—placing half in the centre of each. 
 Then garnish the base with some finely chopped aspic, and small neatly 
 cut croutons round this, and also a little on the top of each, and then 
 they are ready to be sent away when asked for. 
 
 Note .—Sometimes the quails are dished on an ornamental border 
 mould of aspic jelly—garnished with a little financiere ragout and some 
 finely shred lettuce; either way they look well, and make an excellent 
 cold entree for dinner, supper, or luncheon. 
 
 The First Course Removes. —Prepare the quarter of lamb as 
 follows : Saw off the shank bone from the shoulder, and the chine bone 
 joined to the ribs, also the hard part of the breast bone. Then very 
 carefully saw through the centre of the rib bones ; then turn it over, and 
 with a very sharp knife remove the brown part of the skin. Then, with 
 the ribs to you, and three or four skewers, pass the same from the breast 
 
3io 
 
 SEAKALE AND PEAS AU NATURAL. 
 
 side to the filet side (that is to say, from one side of the ribs to the other) 
 and secure the same by some string fastened from one side of the skewers 
 to the other. Rub a little butter over outside, and mark in the larder 
 as ready for roasting. 
 
 The Capons for Braizing. —Bring from the larder the sausage 
 meat that has the chopped truffles mixed in it. Now remove a part of 
 the breast bone, then divide the sausage meat and place half in each 
 capon, in the spot from where you removed the breast bone. Then bring 
 the skin of the breast right over the back, and secure it with a small 
 skewer, so as to prevent the truffle farce from leaving the capons. Then 
 place them in a suitable sized stewpan with about one pint of second 
 stock, and mark off as ready for braizing. 
 
 Veal Stuffing for Leverets. —Make the half of a half quartern loaf 
 into bread crumbs (it should be of yesterday’s baking). Then chop a 
 small handful of picked parsley with a little fresh lemon thyme. About 
 half a pound of beef suet should also be chopped very fine ; mix then 
 the whole of the above with two or three eggs and some pepper and salt. 
 When well mixed, divide it and place half in each leveret, which should 
 be secured with a skewer or with a packing needle and a little twine. 
 Take care they are what is called larded, which means, having a slice of 
 fat bacon tied over the central part to keep them moist while roasting. 
 Then look to your ducklings ; skewer these up tightly, and mark off both 
 as ready for roasting. 
 
 THE VEGETABLES FOR THE SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 Seakale and Peas au Natural. —See that the seakale is trimmed 
 and tightly tied up. The peas will be about one quart reserved or taken 
 from those boiled for the dinner; the seakale to be served with espagnol 
 sauce ; the peas simply have a large pat of butter mixed with them, and 
 a little pepper and salt. A few croutons of fried bread should be pre¬ 
 pared by the kitchen maid, and fastened on each dish with white of an 
 egg mixed with flour into a stiff paste. These are fixed in the dish so 
 as to enable you to dish the vegetables high in the centre of the dish. 
 
 Note .—When fastened on the dishes, they should remain in the screen 
 till needed, so as to become firmly fixed upon the same. 
 
SOUFFLEE GLACEE A LA VANILLE. 
 
 3 ii 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE DISHES. 
 
 Savarin a la Parisienne. 
 
 Soufflee Glacee h la Vanille. 
 
 We will proceed in due form to give the removes first, which are the 
 above. The Savarin Parisienne is made after the same manner as the 
 Baba a la Polonaise, excluding the fruit (see page 26 in the first number 
 of this work), and adding two more eggs and letting it prove a little 
 lighter, giving your best attention to the baking of the same, and seeing 
 that the oven is at its proper point of heat before placing the cake in 
 the same to bake ; and that the mould containing the Savarin stands 
 upon a sheet of paper folded four times, to prevent it taking too much 
 colour. Let me add that the oven should be of good heat but not “ rash ” 
 or too hot. When serving the same cut the brown part off the bottom 
 and gently pour into the cake about one gill of maraschino and a gill of 
 good syrup, letting the cake be made hot before doing so. I mean by 
 pouring into the cake , to pour about three spoonfuls at a time on the 
 cake, which being very porous or somewhat like a honeycomb, will soon 
 absorb the syrup ; and as it does so add more till all the syrup is used; 
 then place it on the dish—an oval silver dish, upon which it will go 
 to table. When asked for, pour the compote of cherries round it and 
 send away. 
 
 Note .—For a change, if preferred, the Savarin can be baked in small 
 moulds, each small mould forming a portion for one person, and when 
 the moulds are buttered, and before filling in the cake or cakes, 
 sprinkle in a few finely chopped almonds, and in all particulars dish 
 up the. small Savarin the same as the large one. 
 
 Soufflee Glacee a la Vanille. —Prepare the lining of a soufflee 
 case (plated or silver) by well buttering two half sheets of white foolscap 
 paper and tying them round the same, and letting them rise about five 
 inches above the case. Then look for an ice cave that will hold the 
 same and enable you to fix the cover tightly upon it. If the portion of 
 paper round the soufflee case should show too high, with the scissors 
 cut off what is in the way, so that the cover of the ice cave will fit 
 
312 
 
 SOUFFLEE GLACfiE A LA VANILLE. 
 
 tightly. When this is arranged then obtain a suitable pail or ice tub to 
 place the ice cave in • and see that you have about six pounds of pounded 
 salt ready to hand with half a hundredweight of ice. These preliminaries 
 being ready, proceed as follows : Have the egg-bowl and whisk expressly 
 cleaned or scowered out with sand and lemon-juice. When quite dry and 
 free from every particle of sand, place one pint of the syrup prepared yester¬ 
 day in the bowl and separate ten jyolks of eggs from the whites, taking 
 care to smell each egg as you part them; add these to the syrup with 
 half the vanille you prepared yesterday, then place on the fire one quart 
 of water in a two-quart stewpan to boil, and while doing so, whip up 
 one pint of very fresh double cream to a snow, which place on a hair 
 sieve ; then crush with a rolling pin a good handful of ratafias till as fine 
 as coarse bread crumbs. Now let one of your assistants break up or 
 pound about one quarter of a hundredweight of ice, so that the same 
 will be ready for use when needed. Then commence to whip up the 
 soufflee glacee, placing the egg-bowl over the boiling water, and 
 whisking the yolks of eggs. Syrup and vanille, sugar the same as for 
 savoy cakes or sponge cakes, or whipped cream that will need constantly 
 beating for about ten minutes or fifteen minutes till the batter becomes 
 nearly hot or a good bit more than warm, which be careful to notice, 
 placing your finger in the batter now and then, so as to judge of its 
 warmth. You will find after a time the batter will become very light, 
 which is what is needed, and when sufficiently hot, remove it from the 
 steam, and keep whipping it still till cold. Then well but very gently 
 mix into the batter the prepared whipped cream, and then mix into the 
 ice about two pounds of pounded salt, and place a portion of it round 
 the ice cave : and lifting the cover off pour into the soufflee case the 
 prepared soufflee. Then cover it up very carefully, and place more ice 
 and salt till the cave is completely embedded in the ice, which should 
 show aoove the ice cave six inches at least. Let me add, with a piece 
 of wood or wooden mallet the ice should be forced down compactly 
 round the cave, and if more ice is needed (and do not spare it) so as to 
 produce a good frost all round and over the cave, by which means the 
 soufflee glacee has to be firmly frozen before sending to table. Let me 
 add, this operation should take place at three o’clock in the afternoon, 
 
THE FOUR ENTREMETS. 
 
 313 
 
 and at half past five o’clock the cave should be carefully removed from 
 the tub, and all ice from the top of it. Then the water should be strained 
 off, and the ice cave again placed in the tub, and fresh salt added to 
 the ice which remains, which should again be placed round the ice cave; 
 then fresh ice should be pounded, and salt carefully and bountifully 
 again mixed. Then the ice cave should again be well ■ embedded in 
 ice, and the souffiee left in the cave till needed for dinner. It should 
 be dished up as follows: Place a folded napkin on an oval silver dish, 
 and place the silver souffiee dish upon it, and when the souffiee glacee 
 is asked for remove the ice from the top of the cave and lift the ice cave 
 out of the tub; then remove the lid, and lift out the souffiee, cut away 
 the strings, and with your knife carefully remove the paper that sur¬ 
 rounds it, and place it in the silver souffiee dish, sprinkle the powdered 
 ratafias on the top, and send it away. 
 
 In my opinion, a souffiee glacee, made as herein directed, is by far the 
 best and most rechei'che of all the ice removes sent to table; but, through 
 not knowing how to make it properly, many vile imitations are made to 
 take its place. 
 
 Note -—In very hot weather it is wise to set it up three times with 
 fresh ice and salt, the same as at the second sitting up. 
 
 THE FOUR ENTREMETS ; OR SECOND COURSE 
 
 SWEETS. 
 
 Place the pans containing the sweet jelly on a coolish part of the 
 hot-plate to melt, and while doing so throw two ounces of pistachios into 
 a quart of boiling water and let them boil for two minutes. Then strain 
 them off into a pointed tin strainer, and run a little cold water over them. 
 Then rub them in a clean cloth, after which pick out the green nuts, and 
 let your assistants cut them in two, removing the skins; and each half 
 should be cut into four shreds. When all are cut up, place them on a 
 plate, and let the plate stand at the mouth of the oven for a few seconds 
 to partly dry them ; and if the jelly is melted take two very clean quart 
 jelly moulds and measure two moulds and place the same in a three-quart 
 kitchen-pan (scrupulously clean). Then place this pan in one of a larger 
 
3H 
 
 THE CHARTREUSES OF STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 size, with a few handfuls of rough ice in it, and pour upon the ice one 
 quart of cold water. Add to the two quarts of jelly two wineglasses of 
 maraschino, and with a plated spoon stir the jelly and, taste it to see if 
 it is getting cold; when it becomes so, place the shred pistachio nuts in 
 it. Then open the book of gold leaf, and holding it over the jelly blow 
 one leaf at a time into the jelly, till you have added six leaves of gold 
 leaf, when with a plated fork gently break into particles the leaves of 
 gold. You must now give your best attention, and gently with the 
 plated spoon move the jelly to and fro, so as to mix the gold particles 
 and the pistachios equally with the jelly. Directly you perceive the jelly 
 beginning to set, then fill the two moulds with the same, and, putting 
 them in another kitchen-pan, put some ice round the moulds and place 
 them in the larder ; and when needed dip each mould separately in some 
 water, slightly more hot than lukewarm. Then dry the mould in 
 a dry cloth, when shake the mould slightly between your two hands, and 
 when you feel the jelly is loose, turn out on the dish upon which it is to 
 go to table, and send away when asked for. 
 
 The Chartreuses of Strawberries. —Take two-quart size plain 
 charlotte moulds, and see that they are very clean. Take also two quart 
 fruit bottles very clean, and place the two charlotte moulds in a kitchen- 
 pan with a little ice round them. Then place exactly in the centre of 
 the moulds the two fruit bottles half full of cold water. Then pour in 
 them about half a gill of liquid jelly, and when set, turn out upon a hair 
 sieve a pound basket of strawberries ; pick out those of the same size 
 and as fine as possible, place these on another mould, then with a wooden 
 skewer, the point of which you have made very sharp, pick off the stem 
 from each strawberry and place them in a row round the bottom of the 
 moulds, with a bottle in the centre, and run a little liquid jelly over the 
 strawberries to set them (about two tablespoonfuls). Then proceed to 
 do the same with the other mould, then cover the strawberries (only just 
 cover them). Then proceed to place another row of strawberries 
 round the first mould, adding two or three spoonfuls of jelly to cause 
 them to set (if you need more of strawberries open another basket). 
 Proceed thus till you have filled each mould nearly full of strawberries, 
 adding a little jelly as you go on. When all the strawberries are set, 
 
RISSOLETTES AU PARMESAN. 
 
 315 
 
 pour enough jelly to just cover them, place a little more ice round them, 
 and leave them till they feel very nice and firm to the touch. In the 
 meantime, place one ounce of gelatine (pied de veau) in half a pint of 
 water to soak. Then pick the remainder of the strawberries and rub 
 them through a hair sieve on to a china dish, and place them in a small 
 kitchen-pan. Then whip a pint of very fresh double cream. Now feel 
 the jelly round the strawberries, and if quite firm pour out the cold 
 water from the bottles, and three parts fill them with warm water; which 
 let remain a few seconds, then pour it away and give each bottle a slight 
 twist, and blow down it at the same time, when the bottle will readily 
 come away. Then again place them on the ice. And now seek two pint 
 round jelly moulds, or the tops of two ice pudding moulds, or two ice 
 moulds, and if you cannot get these, two large dariole moulds ; and if 
 you cannot obtain these, take two small teacups, in which place a little 
 jelly coloured a pale rose tint, and place these on the ice where they 
 will keep level. Now put the one ounce of gelatine on the fire with 
 three parts of a gill of water, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and 
 a spoonful of prepared cochineal. Let this remain on the hot-plate, 
 adding the juice of half a lemon, for a few minutes. Then, with a 
 small wire whisk, stir the whipped cream quickly into the prepared 
 gelatine, and first half fill the two teacups ; then divide the remainder 
 between the two charlottes. The creams in the teacups are, when turned 
 out, to go on the tops of the charlottes when they are turned out, and 
 if you could have obtained two nice little ornamental moulds it would 
 have been best. 
 
 Note .—The charlottes are turned out of the moulds by dipping in 
 warm water, the same as a jelly, and the same with the tops, which when 
 turned out, should be placed on the tops of the charlottes. Care 
 should be taken to place them exactly in the centre, and if a few 
 dried cherries could be placed round the top, and a few leaves of 
 angelica placed between, it would improve them. 
 
 Rissolettes au Parmesan. —Make a brioche paste as follows :— 
 Weigh twelve ounces of flour, then dissolve half an ounce of German 
 yeast in half a gill of warm milk, and mix about two tablespoonfuls of 
 flour to this, taken from what you have weighed, and let it rise till the 
 
3 16 
 
 RISSOLETTES AU PARMESAN. 
 
 globules begin to burst. Then rub six ounces of butter into the rest of the 
 flour, then crack and beat up three whole eggs, and mix this also into 
 the flour and butter. The eggs and flour should be well beaten together 
 till it forms a smooth paste; then spread it out, and cover it over with 
 the yeast sponge, which should be well mixed together with the batter 
 already prepared. Then it should be made into a ball, and placed in a 
 stewpan or basin, and let it remain for an hour or two to become light 
 and allow the yeast to work. Then mix about three ounces of grated 
 Parmesan cheese. Now place on the fire one gill of bechemelle sauce 
 in a small saucepan, and when it boils add two yolks of eggs, stirring 
 them quickly into the hot sauce, and still stirring the sauce on the hot¬ 
 plate till it thickens, when season with a little cayenne pepper, and 
 lightly stir in the grated cheese. Now place the brioche paste on the 
 pastry slab. It should be of the consistence of short paste, so that you 
 can readily roll it out; if it proves a little soft, add sufficient flour, 
 and roll it into the paste, then roll out the paste to the thickness of half- 
 a-crown, and roll it as near as possible into a square sheet, taking care 
 to dust a little flour under it. Then cut it into squares of about one 
 inch and a half wide, then mix two yolks of eggs with a teaspoonful of 
 water well together, and lightly egg over each square. Then place in 
 the fore part of each square about half a teaspoonful of the prepared 
 cheese. Let one part overlap the other, pressing round the outer edge 
 so as thoroughly to close each rissolette. Then, with a suitable size 
 cutter, cut them into shapes forming half a circle, throw a few bread 
 crumbs on a small baking-sheet, and neatly arrange them when finished 
 on this. Twenty is the number you will require, and bear in mind they 
 should not be large, but very small, and as neatly made as possible. 
 Now mix two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese with six of 
 bread crumbs, and when you have cut all the rissolettes out, egg each 
 one over with yolks of egg and a few drops of water with your egg¬ 
 brush. As you do them, shake some mixed bread crumbs and 
 Parmesan cheese over each one, and arrange as instructed. When 
 finished, place a sheet of paper over them, and put in the cool till you 
 need them. When cooking them for dinner, they should be fried in hot 
 hog’s lard, about eight at a time, taking care the lard is not too hot, and 
 
PINEAPPLE CREAM ICE. 
 
 317 
 
 that they are fried of a light brown colour. Dish in two piles on silver 
 plates, with a dessert paper under each, and a little fried parsley for 
 garnish. Send them very hot to table. 
 
 THE ICES. 
 
 Pineapple Cream and Strawberry Water. —Measure the 
 remainder of the puree of fresh strawberries (that which you rubbed 
 through the sieve). You will need one pint, and if you have not suffi¬ 
 cient, make it up with water, and add to it the juice of half a good size 
 lemon, and add to this three parts of a pint of syrup (which was prepared 
 yesterday). Then mix well together in a kitchen-pan, add about one 
 teaspoonful of prepared cochineal, to give it a bright red tint, but not 
 too deep in colour. 
 
 Pineapple Cream Ice. —Open a pint can of preserved slices of 
 pineapple, pick out four slices, which place on the fire in a small stew- 
 pan, with one gill of water and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let them 
 very gently simmer for about one hour; then place in the mortar the 
 remains of the slices of pine which came from the tin, and well pound 
 the same. Then rub them through a hair sieve, getting as much 
 through the sieve as you can; pounding again what is left, and rubbing 
 through the sieve again. You will want about one pint, and to 
 make up add the juice which came from the can, also what syrup 
 is left when you have sufficiently boiled the slices. Also add one 
 good spoonful of powdered sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and 
 sufficient cream to make up the pint of puree of pine. Pour this into a 
 pan, to which add another pint of cream. Mix well together, then pour 
 each ice into a two-quart freezer, and place them in one pail or tub. 
 Then pound rather small one pail of ice, and mix with this about one 
 quart of fine salt. It should then be well mixed together and placed 
 round the two freezers, taking care the covers are on the freezers, so 
 that no salt can get into the ice, for if so, it would spoil it. Then at 
 once commence to turn each freezer continually round (one with your 
 right hand and one with your left). Continue to do this for five 
 minutes; then take off one of the lids, and with your ice spatula remove 
 
318 THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 the ice which has frozen on the inside of the freezer. Put on 
 the lid and serve the other freezer (or the ice inside it) in the 
 same way, when again fix on the lids, and turn the freezers round, 
 as at first, for about the same time. Then again remove the ice 
 frozen on the side, and with your ice spatula beat what has frozen well 
 together, so as to make it as smooth as possible. When each ice is 
 smooth and firmly frozen they are so far finished. But the slices of 
 pine which boiied one hour must be cut up and well mixed in the pine 
 cream before moulding it. Then seek your two ice moulds, which 
 should hold nearly one quart each ; let them be scalded out and wiped 
 clean and dry. Then pound half a pail of ice, and have ready some 
 more fine salt ; then fill each ice mould with ice (pressing down in each 
 mould, so that it will show smooth when turned out), and when well 
 filled place on the covers top and bottom, and place it in the half pail 
 of ice with some salt well mixed with it—say half a pint. Then embed 
 the mould in this on one side, and at once cover it with the salted ice 
 which you have in the pail. Then fill the other ice mould with the other 
 ice, and place it also in the pail with the other mould. Then at once 
 pour off the water from the ice in the freezing tub, and place some of it 
 on the two filled moulds, shaking about a double handful of salt over 
 the ice with which you cover the moulds. Let me add, the great point 
 now is to embed them in plenty of well-salted ice. For this purpose 
 use all that remains in the freezing tub, adding more if needed, and 
 finishing with a good handful of salt spread over the top of the ice that 
 covers them. When needed for the dessert, they should be dipped in 
 lukewarm water, the lids then removed, drying the moulds with a cloth, 
 when they should be put out on their proper dishes and sent away. 
 But take care not to send them away till asked for. 
 
 The Vegetables for the first course are young peas, French 
 beans, young potatoes, and sea-kale ; and young peas for the second 
 course roast. So one quart of peas must be kept back to go with the 
 seakale, and for these, croutons should be fixed on two dishes, as before 
 intimated, all of which the kitchen-maid will attend to. 
 
 Now we may say the dinner is prepared in accordance with the menu, 
 but it has to be finished and sent to table. We will suppose the time to 
 
THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 319 
 
 be five o’clock. So see that the fires—the range and the hot-plate— 
 are duly attended to. So let all things be brought in from the larder, 
 excepting the jellies and chartreuses, and placed in due and true order 
 upon the kitchen dresser. The bain-marie case to be half filled with 
 water, and a few of the sauces removed, such as the jardiniere roots, 
 the mint sauce, and matelote Normand ragout, the salmi sauce for 
 quails, also Mayonnaise sauce. But the two soups can be placed in the 
 bain-marie case ; the capons can be put on to braize, and the tongue to 
 be made hot. At half-past five the quarter of lamb may be put down to 
 roast (the dinner being ordered for eight o’clock, sharp), and the 
 sweetbreads placed on the hot-plate; also the quenelles of haddock, 
 carefully placed in a stewpan to make hot, and the border of fish 
 quenelle, made on the dish to place the quenelles upon. Which do as 
 follows : Roll out the remains left from the quenelles of whiting in two 
 equal lengths (using a little dust of flour to do this), then take a 
 second size silver oval dish or a china one if silver is not used, place the 
 border within an inch of the outside edge. When placed on the dish 
 flatten it, and make a part circle in the centre, using a hot 
 spoon (and have a little hot water by you to dip the spoon in now and 
 then). While doing it, when you have made a nice fluted border place 
 the dish in the oven to set the quenelle, and when it has become firm, 
 place it in the screen till you are ready to use it. Let me here state that 
 the two hours preceding the dinner are of the greatest importance to a cook , 
 and that it is wise and well to very frequently look at the time , and make 
 progress accordingly. So put the quarter of lamb down to roast, and at 
 seven o’clock the ducklings and leverets also. Let the vegetables 
 (excepting the potatoes) be cooked at once, and placed in stewpans 
 ready for making hot when needed—I mean the peas, French beans, 
 and seakale, which, as before intimated, the kitchen-maid will attend to, 
 also the roast. The oven also should be attended to, and be made 
 nicely hot, but not rash. And one fish being ready, as we will suppose , 
 also two of the entrees, there need be no fuss or undue flurry, but 
 constant attention and care nevertheless. Place about half a pint of best 
 glaze with a brush in the bain-marie case. Now put the sweetbreads 
 in the oven, and they being only partly cooked will require constant 
 
320 
 
 FURTHER THINGS TO ATTEND TO. 
 
 attention for about half an hour. Next look to the quenelles of 
 haddock, and if hot they will do (as they should not boil). Place these 
 to drain on one of your dishing-up cloths, and if not quite level on the 
 under part, make them so with your small knife. Then dish them to 
 your right hand, one leaning on the other, and so following right round 
 to the left hand. When all are dished, dip a napkin in hot water, and 
 wring it out, which place over the quenelles ; then cover them with one 
 of the dish covers, and place in the screen to keep hot. 
 
 The Sweetbreads. —Take them out of the oven, and carefully 
 remove them on to a saute-pan ; and your glaze being melted, run a 
 little over each bread, letting it run from the glaze brush. Then put 
 them back in the oven, say for ten minutes, when glaze them again, and 
 when the larding has sprung upwards, place them again in the oven 
 (taking care it is not too hot), if so, leave the oven door open. When 
 they show of a bright glossy brown hue, still give them a little more 
 glaze, taking care the glaze is not too thick. When this has dried on 
 them they will do. Then lift them on a dishing-up cloth to absorb any 
 grease, and place three on each entree dish and cover them, and place 
 them in the screen to keep hot. 
 
 The Capons. — Be particular to see the time your capons begin to 
 boil. One hour will cook them, and the tongue can be nicely trimmed, 
 well glazed, and placed. 
 
 Further Things to attend to. —Let the table-cloth be placed 
 on the kitchen dresser, and the two soup tureens and sauce boats 
 arranged thereon. Bid your kitchen-maid see that there are sufficient 
 hot plates in the screen, and that all dishes and vegetable dishes that 
 will be required for the dinner are ready for use. Supposing it is now 
 seven o’clock, let the second course roast be put down to cook to the 
 range fire, and see that the quarter of lamb is well basted. It should 
 come from the fire at half-past seven, and the shoulder removed from 
 the ribs, which may show a little underdone ; if so, let the shoulder be 
 roasted another half-hour, and the ribs be kept hot in the screen, and 
 a little butter, lemon juice, pepper, and salt be placed between the 
 shoulder and the ribs before sending to table. Let the sauce and 
 ragout en matelote, be placed in the bain-marie case to get hot. The 
 
FURTHER THINGS TO ATTEND TO. 
 
 321 
 
 capons should now be done. Let them be removed for the present 
 from the fire, and a little clean lard be placed to get hot for frying off 
 the rissolettes au Parmesan. At ten minutes to eight o’clock, place the 
 quenelles of haddock in the oven, removing the napkin, but keeping the 
 cover on them. Now, knowing full well that repetitions are tedious, 
 and that very ample instructions have been given regarding each dish or 
 couple of dishes, we shall leave to our fair sisters of the kitchen the 
 agreeable task of sending the whole of the dinner from the kitchen, 
 and shall proceed to convey to them, as far as possible, other matters 
 for their edification and instruction. 
 
 v 
 
CHEESECAKES. 
 
 322 
 
 PUFF PASTRIES OF VARIOUS KINDS. 
 
 SUITABLE FOR SECOND COURSE DISHES FOR DINNERS, BALL SUPPERS, 
 WEDDING AND PUBLIC BREAKFASTS, AND EVENING PARTIES. 
 
 Cheesecakes. —Prepare two pounds of puff paste, using two 
 pounds of the best butter, and two pounds of superfine flour, and the 
 juice of half a lemon. Proceed in all particulars as regards the paste 
 as described for Vol-au-vents, at page 150 in the April number, and finish 
 in all respects the same as for the Bouchees de Dames a la Moderne, but 
 if obtainable use cheese curd instead of potatoes; which is done by 
 placing a piece of cow’s rennet in a quart of pure milk, and standing 
 the same in the warm for about an hour, when it will turn the milk into 
 curd, which cut with a knife into squares, and then let it stand for 
 another hour. Then remove it carefully on to a hair sieve, and press 
 it with a stewpan lid so as to squeeze out all the moisture, then dry it in a 
 cloth and rub it with a wooden spoon through a very clean hair sieve; 
 then weigh it, and use exactly the same quantity as given for the potatoes 
 for the Bouchees de Dames (for which directions see page 119), and 
 finish the same. 
 
 Cheesecakes (another method). —Take some sponge cakes a 
 week old, or a piece of Savoy cake of the same age, which rub through 
 a wire sieve, so as to resemble bread crumbs, and use the white part as 
 much as you can. Then weigh half a pound of fresh butter, half a 
 pound of pounded sugar, and half a pound of whole eggs (which will 
 consist of four), and then half a pound of sponge cake or Savoy cake, 
 rubbed through a wire sieve with the gratings of two lemons, and make 
 this into a paste exactly the same as described for Bouchees de Dames 
 a la Moderne, but using the prepared cake from Savoy cake or sponge, 
 instead of potatoes, and either of the mixtures will serve to make excellent 
 cheesecakes. Take care to roll out the puff paste the same number of 
 times as for the Vol-au-vents at page 150, and finish exactly the same, 
 both as regards the making and the baking of the Bouchees de Dames. 
 
d’artoise pastry. 
 
 323 
 
 D’Artoise Pastry. —Make one pound of short paste as follows :— 
 One pound of superfine flour, half a pound of fresh butter, which rub 
 into the flour, then mix it with about three parts of a half pint of water 
 into a nice firm paste. Then line a medium-size copper baking-sheet 
 with the short paste rolled out a little thicker than a shilling. Then 
 part two yolks of eggs into a small pan, adding a few drops of water, 
 and mixing the same with the yolks of eggs, and with this egg round 
 the outside border of the short paste, then spread over the centre of the 
 short paste some nice firm apricot or raspberry jam. After which roll 
 out once into a square piece sufficient puff paste to cover the whole of 
 the short paste ; and I should state, the jam should be spread not 
 thicker than a new sixpence over the surface up to the edge which you 
 have egged round ; and when you have rolled out the paste evenly to 
 the size you require, dust a little flour over it, and then lightly roll it 
 round the rolling pin, which lift to one end of the baking sheet, then 
 gently unroll it till it covers the surface; when press the puff paste down 
 upon the border, which you have previously egged over, which will fix 
 the two firmly together and prevent the jam coming out when baking. 
 After this egg over the top evenly with the yolks of eggs, using an egg 
 brush for this purpose. Then with your knife square the surface, 
 leaving a margin near the edge of half an inch ; then divide it into oblong 
 pieces of about two and a half inches long, nearly one inch wide, which 
 is done by partly cutting through the paste with your small knife ; and 
 then in the centre of each oblong piece make an imitation of a small 
 wreath with the point of your small knife, and do the same in the centre 
 of each oblong piece. Then bake in a steady oven, taking care the 
 bottom of the paste is well done. And when you place the sheet of 
 pastry in the oven put the salamander in the range fire at the same 
 time to become red-hot by the time the pastry is done, when a little 
 pounded sugar should be spread over the surface from the sugar dredger, 
 when the salamander, if red-hot, should be moved to and fro a few 
 inches above the sugar to melt the same, and give the surface a glossy 
 appearance. The pUstry, while baking, should be watchfully attended 
 to, and all care taken that it is nicely baked. When it has become 
 become quite cold it should be cut out into oblong pieces as 
 
324 
 
 TARTLETS OF MIXED PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 marked out with your knife before baking, and should be dished in 
 a neat pile on a dessert paper placed in the centre of a silver dish; 
 about fifteen pieces should be enough for one dish, and the baking- 
 sheet should contain two dishes. 
 
 Mireletons a la Francaise. —Line, if for one dish, eighteen 
 tartlet tins with some puff paste rolled out about as thick as a two-shilling 
 piece, and cut out eighteen circular pieces with a fluted cutter, dusting a 
 little flour over the paste before you cut them out, and they should be 
 cut to nicely fit the tartlet tins; and, as you cut them out, turn them 
 over as you place them in the tartlet tins, so that the top forms the 
 bottom when in the tins. And when the tins are lined, pinch the edges 
 up, so as to rise a quarter of an inch above the tins, when place 
 about the half of a teaspoonful of apricot jam in each. Then take about 
 three ounces of crisp ratafias, which rub with a rolling-pin till they 
 become very fine, then crack three fine eggs into a quart stewpan, to which 
 add three ounces of sugar, then place two ounces of fresh butter in a 
 small stewpan to melt; and then, with a small wire whisk, beat the three 
 eggs (which you should smell, for fear of a musty one) and the sugar 
 together for about three minutes, when add the melted butter, and, 
 lastly, stir in the ratafias ; then, when well mixed, place an equal quantity 
 in each tartlet tin upon the apricot jam, so as to fill each about three 
 parts full; then with your sugar dredger sprinkle a little sugar over, but 
 enough to well cover the mixture, and at once place them in an oven of 
 moderate heat, and bake them of a nice brown colour, giving them your 
 best attention while in the oven. You can readily tell when they are 
 done, by seeing if they will readily leave the tartlet tins. When cold, 
 dish them in a nice pile, on a dessert paper, in the centre of a silver 
 plate or dish. 
 
 Tartlets of Mixed Preserved Fruit.- —To make a tartlet of 
 exact and uniform size, and so that it will look extremely well, it is 
 absolutely necessary to have what is called by the cook dummies to place 
 in the centre of each while baking, and which, when removed after they 
 are baked, will leave the same size hole in the centre of each, in which 
 to fill whatever you intend to place in, whether of conserve or fruit. 
 And the dummies are made in the following manner:—Place a pint of 
 
TARTLETS OF MIXED PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 water in a stewpan on the hot-plate to boil, and put in the same two 
 ounces of lard; and, when the water is boiling and the lard has melted, 
 make a hole in the centre of two pounds of flour, the flour forming a 
 dam round the same, then pour in about three parts of the water, and, 
 with a wooden spoon, mix in the flour, adding a little more water if you 
 find it too stiff, then work it well together into a smooth but firm paste, 
 and let it remain in a damp cloth for about ten minutes; after which 
 roll it out into one long piece, which cut into pieces about the size of 
 half the thick part of a good-sized egg. Then mould each piece into a 
 round ball (with a pip or small handle, so to speak, to each), and as 
 you mould them flatten them slightly, and arrange them on a baking 
 sheet; and bear in mind they are to place in the centre of each tartlet 
 tin after being lined with a piece of paste about the thickness of a two- 
 shilling piece, which will give you an idea of the size required; and it 
 will be wise to try one to obtaiti the right size. When all are made, bake 
 them in a slow oven of a light colour, and when cold they are ready for 
 use, and should be kept in a tin box so as to be ready to your hand 
 when needed. And now roll out your puff paste into a nice even piece 
 about the thickness of a two-shilling piece, and cut them out of a suitable 
 size with a patty-cutter, and a fluted one is best ; if for one dish, you will 
 require sixteen, if for two, thirty-two ; and it is always well to make a 
 couple over in case of accident. And when you have filled the tartlet tins 
 with paste, then pinch them up a little so as to rise above the tartlet rim 
 when placed in the centre of each of your dummies, and place them on 
 a baking-sheet an inch apart, and bake them in an oven of steady heat. 
 Also at nearly the same time place the salamander in the range fire, and 
 when the tartlets are baked remove the dummies, and sprinkle some 
 fine powdered sugar over them, and if the salamander is red-hot move 
 it to and fro a few inches above the tartlets, so as to cause the sugar to 
 melt and thereby give the tartlet cases a bright appearance. Then cut 
 up about one pound of preserved fruit (but not crystalized), such as 
 cherries, pineapple, apricots, and greengages; cut them as near as 
 possible into square dice of about a quarter of an inch, and when all 
 are cut up place them in a small kitchen-pan, and add to them about 
 
 half a gill of liquid jelly and the same of syrup, and stir the fruit well 
 
 Y 2 
 
PASTRIES A LA FLORENTINE. 
 
 326 
 
 together with these. And at a little before the tartlets will be required 
 fill them with the mixed fruit, and dish them in a neat pile upon dessert 
 papers on silver plates or dishes, and send away when needed. 
 
 Souffle Tartlets a la Reine. —Place in a three pint stew-pan the 
 gratings of one fragrant lemon, one pat of butter, a good spoonful of 
 vanille sugar, and a spoonful of plain sugar, with half a pint of milk to 
 boil; and then mix three tablespoonfuls of superfine flour with one gill 
 of milk ; mix very smooth and free from lumps. And when the milk 
 on the fire boils, stir the mixed flour and milk, and stir over the hot¬ 
 plate till it, the mixture, forms a smooth paste. It should be kept stirred 
 for about two minutes, so as to cook the flour. Then part five fresh eggs, 
 putting the whites in a very clean china pan, and the yolks in another 
 pan. And now add two of the yolks to the mixture you stirred on the 
 hot-plate, which stir well in ; then add the other three, which stir for a 
 couple of minutes on the hot-plate, when remove it and stir on a little 
 ice to become cold. Then whip in a clean copper bowl with a clean 
 whisk the five whites of eggs till they are as firm as for meranque, when 
 stir one-half into the souffle mixture, then the other half as lightly as 
 possible. Then line thirty-two tartlet tins the same as for the tartlets 
 with mixed fruit, and place one-third of a teaspoonful of apricot jam in 
 each tartlet, which spread over the bottom; then place a dessert spoon- 
 full of the souffle mixture in each. After which roll out a few trimmings 
 of the puff paste into a smooth square piece, which cut in strips about an 
 inch and a half long, and about as wide as the small blade of a pen¬ 
 knife, and with these form a cross with two strips on the top of each; 
 and when all are done shake a little sugar over each, and bake in an oven 
 of moderate heat of a light brown colour, and dish in two piles on 
 dessert papers on silver plates or dishes, and send away when needed. 
 
 Pastries a la Florentine. —Roll out some short paste the same 
 thickness as for the pastry d’Artoise, and spread it over a medium size 
 copper baking-sheet, then spread over it some stiff apricot jam or rasp¬ 
 berry jam, and bake it in the oven. Then make half a pound mixture 
 of meranque (for which see Meranque Suisse directions, page 136), 
 and use the same quantities as therein given of whites of eggs 
 and sugar, and follow the same instructions as there given regarding the 
 
FANCHONETTES A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 327 
 
 utensils to be used. And when the meranque is made, spread it over 
 the surface of the sheet of pastry (on the jam placed therein), and then 
 sprinkle over it some chopped pistachio nuts, mixed with some blanched 
 almonds, from which the skins have been removed and which have also 
 been chopped up. Then cut out the same in neat oblong pieces two 
 inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide ; and to do this easily 
 your knife must be kept moist by wiping it on a wet cloth as you 
 proceed. When you have cut them all out, arrange them on a clean 
 baking-sheet, and sprinkling some white sugar over them, and then 
 place them in the oven, leaving the door open; and when they have 
 become of a fawn tint, remove them into the screen and let them dry 
 there for about an hour or longer, till the meranque has become crisp. 
 Dish them on dessert papers upon silver plates or dishes, and send away 
 when needed. 
 
 Fanchonettes a la Frangaise. —If for two dishes line twenty- 
 two tartlet tins with short paste, the same as for the Florentines, and 
 proceed as follows: Roll out a pound of paste about as thick as a new 
 half-crown, and with a plain tin cutter, about the size of the top of the 
 tartlet tins, cut out twenty-two round pieces, and fix these evenly in the 
 tins ; then with your finger and thumb squeeze up the paste so as to 
 form a neat border above the rim about an eighth of an inch high, and 
 when all are done arrange them on a baking-sheet. Then prepare a pint 
 of cold custard as follows: Crack four fresh eggs into a quart kitchen- 
 pan, and add two additional yolks, with the gratings of a lemon and 
 two tablespoonfuls o f sugar ; beat these well together with a wire whisk, 
 then add a pint of milk, when thoroughly mix together, and pass 
 through a pointed tin strainer. Then fill about three parts full the paste- 
 lined tartlet tins, and bake them in a rather sharp oven. When baked 
 remove them on to a baking-sheet, taking them out out of the tins; and 
 then make a half-pound mixture of meranque, in the same manner as 
 for the Florentines, and placing half the prepared meranque in a linen 
 bag with a pipe in it (for which see engravings in January number), 
 proceed as follows : Place about half a teaspoonful of apricot jam in the 
 centre of each, which spread evenly over the custard, then over this 
 squeeze out sufficient meranque in a circular form to cover the jam ; 
 
328 
 
 cond£ pastry au conserve. 
 
 and then make a paper corney, and leaving a small hole in the end, 
 place some of your meranque mixture in this, and make a small round 
 ring in the centre; and round this sprinkle some finely-chopped pistachio 
 nuts, mixed with a little pink sugar in grains, and then shake a little 
 pounded lump sugar over them, and place them in the oven with the 
 door open to partly dry the meranque, when place them in the screen to 
 finish drying; and if the oven is too hot, the screen alone will finish 
 drying them. Dish them in a pile in each dish, and place in each round 
 ring on the top a little red currant jelly before dishing them. 
 
 Pastry a la Moderne. —Line a medium-size baking sheet with 
 short paste, about as thick as a half-crown, and with three yolks of eggs 
 and a few drops of water mixed with them, egg round the outside 
 border. Then take some cheese cake mixture (see a few pages back), 
 sufficient to cover over the sheet of paste to the thickness of a quarter 
 of an inch. Add to the cheese cake mixture four ounces of 
 ratafias, which rub into a part powder about as fine as bread crumbs, 
 also three yolks of eggs ; mix well together, then spread over the paste 
 up to the border which you have egged round (and take pains to spread 
 it evenly). Then roll out sufficient puff paste about as thick as a half 
 crown, and let it be large enough and about the size of the baking sheet 
 you have in use. Throw a little flour over it, and roll it round your 
 rolling pin ; then, egging round the border again, place the rolling pin at 
 the end of the baking-sheet near you ; gently unroll the paste, so as to 
 cover the surface, then press round the paste upon the egged border, 
 and with your knife trim off the surplus paste close to the edge of the 
 baking-sheet, then egg over the surface of the paste that shows to you, 
 and finish it exactly the same as for the d’Artoise pastry, a few pages 
 back, on the top dividing it into oblong pieces as there described, of 
 about two and a half inches long and nearly one inch wide. Then bake 
 it in a oven of steady heat, and when done sprinkle some finely 
 powdered sugar over the top and salamander it; and when quite cold 
 cut it out into pieces as marked, and dish in two piles on dessert papers 
 placed on silver plates or dishes, and send away when needed. 
 
 Conde Pastry au Conserve. —Beat up in a small kitchen-pan a 
 quarter of a pound of ground almonds, with three whites of eggs and 
 
CONDE PASTRY AU CONSERVE. 
 
 329 
 
 the gratings of one lemon, for about five minutes, then add half a 
 pound of powdered and sifted lump sugar, and well mix together. It 
 should be, as regards its consistency, about as thick as double cream, 
 &c., so that it would nicely mask the point of your finger ; and to obtain 
 this point, if another white of egg is needed, add it to the mixture. 
 Then roll some trimmings of puff paste, also some short-paste. The 
 short paste should be rolled out first to the thickness of a two-shilling 
 piece, then cut thirty-two round pieces about an inch and a quarter in 
 diameter, and arrange these on a baking sheet; make a slight 
 indendation in the centre of each with your finger, and in this place a 
 little apricot or raspberry jam, about the quarter of a teaspoonful, then 
 roll out to the thickness of a shilling your puff paste, and cut these 
 out of the same size as those cut out from the short paste; and now 
 sprinkle with your egg-brush a little water over the rounds of short 
 paste arranged on the baking sheet, and on these place the rounds of 
 puff paste. You must be particular to fix them exactly and evenly on 
 the top, and when all are finished cut out thirty-two more round pieces 
 of puff paste the size of a shilling, and cut out of the centre of each of 
 these a small round piece of about a quarter of an inch in diameter. 
 And the best thing is to place these rings in the centre of the top of 
 each, which do as follows : dip your egg-brush in a little water and 
 moisten the centre of each, and on this place the ring. Then proceed 
 to make a corney, with half a sheet of foolscap paper, somewhat into the 
 shape of a pointed sugar loaf (of small size), and fold it so as to leave a 
 hole at the end of about a quarter of an inch wide, and by placing a 
 pin right through the paper this will keep it in shape. And now turn 
 to your mixture of ground almonds, and if it will nicely mask your 
 finger point, then half fill your corney with a part of the same, and 
 then holding the corney in both hands, with the point over one of the 
 condes (and having so folded the wide end of the corney that it will 
 keep in almond mixture), proceed to make a ring of the almond 
 mixture round the outside of the small ring of paste in the centre of 
 each, and when all are done sprinkle a little powdered sugar over the 
 almond border, and put them in a steady oven to bake. Take care the 
 border formed of the almond mixture is not put on too thick (if so it 
 
330 
 
 cond£ pastry au conserve. 
 
 will run off the pastry when in the oven), and in fact the lighter and 
 the less that is laid on the better, providing it forms a ring round the 
 outside border. Furthermore, they will need careful attention while 
 baking, so as to keep them of a nice bright brown colour, and when 
 baked, and before dishing, place a little red currant jelly in the centre 
 ring of each; then dish in a pile and serve. Display them on 
 ornamental dessert papers, on silver plates or dishes. 
 
33i 
 
 THE NEW REGISTERED HOLDER FOR HOT OR 
 
 COLD TONGUES. 
 
 NEW ENTREE MOULDS. 
 
 \ 
 
 BEE HIVE (THREE SIZES). 
 
 HORSE SHOE (FOUR SIZES). 
 
 FANCY CUTLET. 
 
 The above to be obtained from Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6, Motcomb Street, 
 
 Belgrave Square, London, S. W. 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 (SAY FOR AUGUST 4 th), 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN 'PERSONS, 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Consomme of Leveret, aux Quenelles. 
 
 Maccaroni a la Royal. 
 
 (Two Fish.) 
 
 Scollops of Salmon a l’Americaine (cold). 
 
 Darioles of Fillets of Soles en Mayonnaise, a 1’Aspic. 
 
 (Four Entrees.) 
 
 Supreme of Fillets of Fowl, with Asparagus Peas, a l’Aspic (cold). 
 Lamb Cutlets Panee, aux Champignons. 
 
 ( Two Removes.) 
 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton, a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Chickens and Tongue au Gratin. Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 Side Table—Vegetables in Season, Salad, <SrY. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Turkey Poults. Roast Quails. 
 
 (Two Vegetables.) 
 
 Cauliflowers aux Parmesan, a 1’Espagnol. 
 
 ( Tzoo Removes.) 
 
 Ice Pudding of Peaches, a l’Americaine. 
 
 Gateaux Diplomatique. Sauce of Apricots. 
 
 (Four Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Jellies Macedoine a la Moderne. 
 
 Bavaroises a l’ltalienne. 
 
 ( Cheese Entremet.) 
 
 Croutes au Parmesan, a l’Anglaise. 
 
 ( 7 he Ices.) 
 
 Cherry Water. Raspberry Cream. 
 
 Z 
 
334 
 
 GREENGROCER. 
 
 Requisition List for dinner of eighteen or twenty persons, 
 August 4th, 1886. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty pounds of soup meat, half beef and half veal, without 
 bones; three pounds ditto of soup veal; three necks of lamb ; two ox 
 tongues ; one haunch of mutton ; two-pound slice of veal; seven calf’s 
 feet. The three necks of lamb to be in the kitchen on the morning of the 
 3rd at 9 o’clock a.m. The haunch of mutton at the same time, on the 
 4th, and all the other items on the 2nd, by 9 o’clock a.m. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 One piece of split salmon, about three pounds (prime cut); four soles 
 filleted, of medium size ; one gill of live spawn ; three dozen oysters for 
 stewing; one medium size hen lobster. All to be in the kitchen by 
 9 o’clock a.m. on the morning of the 3rd. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Eight fine fowls for filleting; one fine young hare; four chickens to 
 boil; two turkey poults to roast; eight quails to roast. All to be in the 
 kitchen on the morning of the 2nd, excepting the turkey poults and 
 quails, which should arrive on the morning of the 4th. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Two cucumbers ; twelve lemons ; one bunch of carrots ; one bunch 
 of onions ; four heads of celery ; half a bunch of parsley ; half a bunch 
 of thyme ; one bundle of sprew grass ; eight cauliflowers ; four quarts 
 of young peas; three pounds of cut French beans; seven pounds of 
 new kidney potatoes; twelve fine and ripe tomatoes; one salad ; 
 eight ripe apricots ; twelve ripe peaches ; one pound of mixed fruit — 
 strawberries, grapes ; and also one pint of red and black and white 
 currants; two pounds of cherries; one pound basket of raspberries; a 
 little tarragon and chervil. 
 
 Note .—The rough vegetables to arrive on the morning of the 2nd by 
 9 o’clock. The fruit and best vegetables on the morning of the 4th. 
 
DINNER ROLLS. 
 
 335 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 Half a pound of pied, de veau gelatine; half a pound of Parmesan 
 cheese ; half a pound of mixed fruit; half a pound of dried cherries ; 
 seven pounds of flour; one bottle of tarragon vinegar ; twelve sponge 
 cakes ; half a pound of ratifias ; three cans of champignons ; one pot of 
 apricot jam; two ounces of angelica; one bladder of lard; three 
 pounds of York ham ; three pounds of powdered lump sugar; three 
 pounds of lump sugar, in one piece; half a bottle of maraschino ; half 
 a bottle of sherry ; half a bottle of brandy ; two half quartern loaves of 
 bread, yesterday’s baking ; three pounds of salt butter ; three pounds of 
 fresh ; thirty fresh eggs ; three quarts of double cream, one of milk. 
 All the above items should be to hand on the morning of the 2nd by 9 
 o’clock a.m., excepting the cream, three pints of which should come 
 in on the morning of the 3rd, and three pints on the morning of 
 the 4th. 
 
 Rough Ice. —Half a hundredweight should be in the kitchen on the 
 2nd, half a hundredweight on the 3rd, and one hundredweight on the 
 morning of the 4th. 
 
 Dinner Rolls.—These should be ordered in good time on the 3rd- 
 
 Proceed with the stocks, sauces, and soups, as hitherto directed; for 
 
 which full instructions will be found in the early part of this work. But, 
 
 in this instance, you will require an extra stock for the consomm6 of leveret, 
 
 and there is three pounds of soup veal ordered specially for this, which 
 
 must be placed in a separate stewpan with a little ham, and run down 
 
 the same as for your brown gravy, also adding about three pounds of 
 
 soup beef and the trimmings of hare, after yon have cut out the fillets, and a 
 
 little from the legs , to make the quenelles with for your clear soup of leveret. 
 
 You will also require some aspic jelly (about one quart), for which there 
 
 is an extra calf’s foot ordered. They can be added to those used for 
 
 the calf’s feet stock for the sweet jelly, and instead of old hens for your 
 
 soup, use the carcases from the eight fowls, taking care to remove the 
 
 fillets and under-fillets from the same before using them; cut also some 
 
 of the tender flesh from the legs for quc?ielle. Then let all the remains be 
 
 chopped up fine and equally divided between the white and brown gravy, 
 
 z 2 
 
336 
 
 ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 also adding a little for the leveret stock. These slight additions having 
 been attended to, let the stocks be finished, and boil the same time, 
 and be duly skimmed, and the same amount of vegetables added, as 
 instructed, for the dinner in the January number. And the second 
 stocks obtained as therein directed, and that the following articles are 
 duly prepared. 
 
 The White and Brown Roux, for which directions have been 
 given at page 5 in the January part. Also the quenelle of veal and 
 quenelle of leveret. 
 
 Quenelle of Veal. —The meat should be scraped and pounded 
 from your legs of fowl; also from the three pounds slice off, and, when 
 rubbed through the wire sieve, should be finished the same as quenelle 
 of pheasants, but not made into shapes (see page 15), using exactly the 
 same ingredients and the same proportions. 
 
 Quenelle of Leveret. —This is also scraped, pounded, and passed 
 through a hair sieve, and mixed in the same proportions as for quenelle 
 of pheasant; and it should be kept firm, as it is for garnish, when both 
 should be placed in two kitchen-pans, covered with paper, and placed 
 upon ice till needed. 
 
 Calf’s Feet Jelly.— Make off about three quarts of stock, following 
 the instructions given at page 8 of the January instructions, taking care 
 to read the same carefully through before commencing to make the jelly. 
 It should be covered with paper, and placed in the larder when ready. 
 
 Aspic Jelly.—Use half calfs feet stock and half best gravy, and 
 finish the same as described in the July number, taking care to make 
 your stock sufficiently strong in substance by adding a little pied de veau 
 gelatine, after it has soaked in cold water for an hour, and attentively 
 test its strength before you clarify the same. Let me state that, fre¬ 
 quently, when the weather is very hot, aspic jelly will take as much as 
 two ounces of gelatine to the quart; that is to say, when half best gravy 
 and half calf’s foot stock is used. When the jelly has run through, place 
 it in the larder; and I will also state that about three pints is what you 
 will require for the menu in this number. The illustrations at the end 
 of the first number give two jelly stands. The open one is generally for 
 aspic jelly, and the closed one for sweet jelly; and, as a matter of 
 
THE SOUPS. 337 
 
 necessity, if you have not a savoury jelly bag, use a napkin, and follow, 
 as before intimated, the instructions fully given in the July number. 
 
 The Fillets of Fowl. —These should be cut and placed in a well- 
 tinned stewpan, and kept on ice till you prepare them for marking off. 
 
 The Foundation Sauces. —We shall suppose these to be entirely 
 finished, and that you have one quart more veloute than what is required 
 for sauces, so that you will be able to start well on the morning of the 
 3rd, which we will suppose has now arrived, and the above articles have 
 been duly prepared and placed in the larder. Now, following in due 
 order, we will begin with the soups ; and, so place to boil half a pound 
 of macaroni with about two quarts of water and one ounce of butter 
 in it, and a little salt, for about half an hour. 
 
 The Soups. —The consomme of leveret should have every particle 
 of fat removed from its surface, and be perfectly bright. If not, 
 clarify the same in the usual manner. While this is taking place, 
 make some small quenelles of hare with two teaspoons, as follows : 
 Have a pint of boiling water by your side, also half a sheet of 
 foolscap paper, with a little butter rubbed over it; then dip one 
 teaspoon in the quenelle at the side of the pan containing the 
 same, and as you withdraw the spoon, press what it contains against 
 the side of the pan so as to quite fill the teaspoon ; then with a cheese 
 knife, which has been dipped in hot water, smooth over the quenelle in 
 the teaspoon so as to give it an even surface. Then dip your clean 
 spoon in hot water and scoop out about three parts of the quenelle in 
 the other (you must hold the filled spoon in your left hand, and the 
 empty spoon in your right hand, to do this nicely). Then place it upon 
 buttered paper, and when you have used all the leveret quenelle in 
 this way, place a saut6-pan with water to boil, and when it does so slip 
 the paper into the boiling water, holding one corner in your hand, and 
 then withdraw it, leaving the quenelle to slowly simmer; and if you 
 have two papers full, serve the other in the same way, and when firm 
 (which be particular to ascertain), with a perforated spoon remove 
 them on to a hair sieve. Now look to your consomme, and if it is now 
 brilliant, strain it through a soup-cloth into a kitchen-pan, and measure 
 two quarts into a soup bain-marie. Then season it with a little salt and 
 
338 
 
 CREMES OF SALMON A LA MODERNE. 
 
 sugar, place the quenelles in the same, and place in the larder with the 
 cover slightly open. When serving, it must have half a pint of asparagus 
 peas placed in the tureen. 
 
 Macaroni Soup a la Reine. — Look to the macaroni, and when 
 tender strain it off and place it in two quarts of cold water with a few 
 pieces of ice in it. Let it be strained off and cut in one-inch lengths, 
 and placed in a three-quart stewpan with one pint of the best white 
 gravy; then add to this one quart of veloute sauce, and place where it 
 will come to the boil quickly. Now crack eight fresh eggs, and part the 
 yolks from the whites as you do them, and be very particular to smell 
 each one (for a musty one will creep in sometimes), and if you have the 
 least suspicion of any egg you crack do not use it. The yolks of eggs 
 parted, add to them about three parts of a pint of the best double cream 
 with half a teaspoonful of salt, and the same of sugar; beat these 
 together with a wire whisk, then strain through a pointed wire sieve. 
 Now look to your macaroni soup. If it is beginning to become hot 
 strain about one pint through a pointed sieve, pulling the macaroni 
 back ; mix the soup and the eggs and cream together, whisk well 
 together, then pour it into the soup containing the macaroni, and very 
 gently stir the same till nearly boiling, taking care the wooden spoon 
 you stir it with does not leave off touching the bottom. When you 
 perceive the eggs are setting, remove it from the hot-plate on to the 
 dresser, where still give it your best attention, by stirring it for five 
 minutes, when pour it into the soup Ijain-marie and place in the larder ; 
 and when partially cold they should be placed in, say, an oval fish 
 kettle, with about half a pail of ice round the t&o soup bain-maries so as 
 to become cold and quickly set, as in case of a thunder storm they 
 would then be enabled to resist the effects of the same. The same 
 advice may be given with regard to your sauces, sweet and aspic 
 jellies— get such cold and quickly set in July and August. 
 
 Cremes of Salmon a la Moderne. —Take the three-pound slice 
 of salmon, cut it in scollops, and with a wide-bladed dinner-knife scrape 
 off the flesh of the fish carefully from the sinews, and when you have 
 done so place them in the mortar and thoroughly well pound the same, 
 and rub it through a wire quenelle sieve. When all is passed through, 
 
DARIOLE OF FILLETS OF SOLES. 
 
 339 
 
 place it in the mortar and well mix it together with one gill of bechemelle 
 sauce, taking care the same is quite cold and partly set before using it; 
 then add a little salt and cayenne pepper, and having rubbed one gill of 
 live spawn through a hair sieve, add this to the salmon; mix it well in 
 the salmon. Then gently mix in three parts of a pint of cream, which 
 must be very fresh and good. But though the cream is gently mixed 
 in, it must be well amalgamated together. Now butter a dariole mould 
 and half fill it with the prepared salmon ; then fold a square piece of 
 paper in two and place it in a pint stewpan, with about one gill of 
 water in it; place this on the hot-plate, and when it boils place the 
 dariole half full of the salmon in it to boil, or rather simmer gently for 
 about five minutes ; and when it feels firm to the touch, but at the 
 same time light and compact in form, take it from the fire and turn it 
 out on a plate, and critically examine it; and if it be somewhat like 
 quenelle but lighter, it will do; but if you think it too firm add another 
 gill, or even a half pint, more cream; that is if you think the salmon 
 will bear it, but if not, abstain from using it. Then with some clarified 
 butter prepare two plain moulds with pipes in the same, beating the butter 
 till it becomes white and smooth. Then ornament them inside with some 
 truffles cut in thin slices, and then in fancy shapes such as rings, half¬ 
 moons, or leaves, or simply by chopping up a couple of truffles rather fine, 
 and sprinkling the bottom of the buttered moulds with the same ; then fill 
 them with the prepared salmon, as far as the mixture will serve, placing 
 the same quantity in each. Then screw a piece of buttered paper 
 over each, and place them in one stewpan, and place enough ice round 
 them to reach half-way up the moulds ; then place them in the larder. 
 
 Dariole of Fillets of Soles en Mayonnaise. —Take the sixteen 
 fillets of soles, spread them out on the dresser and cut them all of the 
 same size; then chop up one dozen preserved champignons, and half a 
 handful of picked parsley very fine ; mix it with a little of your veal 
 quenelle, then spread your fillets of soles in a row close together (they 
 should be placed with the inside of the fillets uppermost), and on this side 
 spread the quenelle mixture very thin, and roll each fillet over and 
 over into a circular roll till all are finished. Then sixteen plain 
 dariole moulds should be buttered, and one fillet pressed into each 
 
340 
 
 DARIOLE OF FILLETS OF SOLES. 
 
 mould. When this is done, arrange them on a baking-sheet rather 
 close together; put a sheet of buttered paper over them, and another 
 tin or baking-sheet on the top when bake them in the oven for a 
 quarter of an hour (taking care the oven is not too hot). Then remove 
 them, and see if they are done ; if so, let remain in the dariole moulds 
 till needed the next day, when they should be finished as follows : Make 
 a mayonnaise sauce, the same as in the number for July—about one pint. 
 Then carefully pass your small knife round each dariole mould, when 
 hold the moulds each one in your hand, and give them a slight jerk, 
 when they will leave the moulds; place them on a china dish as you do 
 them, and if they need a little trimming, do so. Then make about one 
 gill of aspic jelly warm, and when this is melted, mix it into the mayon¬ 
 naise sauce ; mix well together with a whisk. Then place the fillets of 
 sole on a fork, and dip them one at a time in the mayonnaise sauce, so 
 as nicely to mask them. Arrange them on a clean dish as you do them. If 
 the sauce becomes set, warm the stewpan in a little warm water for a few 
 minutes; then lift it from the warm water, and gently stir together again, 
 and, when at the masking point, finish the others. When this is finished, 
 sprinkle a little very finely chopped parsley (which has been afterwards 
 placed in a pointed sieve and dipped in some boiling water with salt in 
 it, then squeezed very dry in a cloth) on them—on the top only. Then 
 peel one cucumber very thin, one of the same thickness all along its 
 length, and cut it in slices about as thick as a shilling, and cut up the 
 white part of three cos lettuce (crosswise) very fine indeed. Then place 
 the soles, following the shape of the dish—a flat, second size oval dish— 
 about half an inch from the outer edge; and round this place a border 
 of the sliced cucumber, and on this four piles of chopped aspic jelly— 
 two piles one at each end, and two at the side. Then place the cut up 
 lettuce in a basin with what mayonnaise sauce you have, and mix it 
 with the lettuce, when place it in the centre of the darioles of soles, and 
 place on the top a slight pile of chopped aspic jelly. Then finally 
 mix three tablespoonfuls of salad oil with two of malt vinegar, mix these 
 together with a little pepper and salt, and pour round, or rather over, 
 the cucumbers, when it is ready to serve. 
 
 Note .—I have thought it best to finish off-hand the description of 
 
THE SMALL LILLETS OF CHICKEN. 
 
 341 
 
 this dish; but of course you must not dish it till the afternoon of the 
 day of the dinner, when it should stand in a china dish with a little ice 
 round it, till sent away. 
 
 Note .—Should it so happen that you cannot obtain suitable dariole 
 moulds, place three of the fillets of soles in a quarter of a sheet of fools¬ 
 cap paper, tie them up tightly at each end, and when all are thus 
 prepared, place them in a suitable size stewpan, with about half a pint of 
 second stock; bring to the boil; then place in the oven to cook for a 
 quarter of an hour, when try them, and let them remain in the 
 stewpan till cold; then dish as before described, and send away when 
 needed. 
 
 Supreme of Fillets of Fowl with Asparagus Peas.— 
 
 Bring the fillets from off the ice, and with your cutlet-bat or chopper 
 spread each fillet out on your cutting-board, and lightly moisten the top, 
 after removing the under fillet. Then tap it lightly so as to make it 
 lie even on your cutting-board. Then with a very sharp knife, holding 
 the fillet down with the fingers of the left hand, cut clean away the thin 
 skin which forms the thin skin of each fillet (that is, the smooth side). 
 It should be cut off very thinly ; and as you do them place them on a 
 saute-pan marked over with a little clarified butter; and when all are 
 done, with your butter-brush rub a little butter over them, taking care 
 that the side from which you cut off the skin is the down side. Then 
 cover with a round of buttered paper and place in a sharp oven for 
 about three minutes ; and instantly they show white and feel firm to the 
 touch they are done, when remove them in the larder, with the paper 
 over them, till to-morrow. 
 
 The O x Tongue. —And now remove the ox tongues if done, 
 place then in cold water for five minutes, then remove the rough 
 skin, and cut a part of the root away, and place in the larder till 
 to-morrow. 
 
 The Small Fillets of Chicken. —Having removed these and 
 the little skin that covers them, you will see a little bit of white pith 
 running along the centre—cut part of this away. Then cut four 
 slanting slits, at equal distances apart, in the centre of each small fillet, 
 about half-way through When all are done, then cut half a dozen 
 
342 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS. 
 
 truffles in slices about as thick as an old sixpence, and, with a round 
 cutter about the diameter of a fourpenny piece, half the number of 
 circular pieces as you have cut slits, and cut these in halves, holding 
 your knife in a slanting direction. Then place four halves in the slits 
 of each small fillet, and so on till all are finished. Now butter a 
 suitably-sized saute-pan, and place a round of white kitchen paper in 
 it, which butter again. Then place the thick end of each small fillet 
 towards the rim of the saute-pan, and let the thin end sweep round so 
 as to form almost the half of a circle, and follow suit till all the small 
 fillets are thus arranged. Then butter another round of buttered paper 
 and place over them. Then put them in the oven to cook. Two or 
 three minutes will do this, and when they show quite white and are 
 firm to the touch, they will do. Then place them in the larder till 
 the following day with the large fillets. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets with Asparagus Peas. —Cut and trim these 
 cutlets as prepared in the May instructions of this work (page 225), 
 then make half of a quartern loaf of yesterday’s baking into bread 
 crumbs, as finely made as possible (that is to say, rubbed through a wire 
 sieve, the mesh of which is a little smaller than usual). Then beat up 
 three whole eggs and three yolks, having carefully smelt the same ; add 
 a little pepper and salt, also two spoonfuls of warm clarified butter ; 
 beat them well together. Then take hold of the bone of each cutlet 
 (twenty-four in number), dip each cutlet into the prepared egg, and 
 patting each one on the side of the stewpan containing the eggs, so as 
 not to have too much egg on each cutlet, drop them into the prepared 
 bread crumbs, and let an assistant pat the crumbs on them to cause 
 them to adhere; then place them on a dish beside him or her, and 
 when all are done, place about one gill of clarified butter on a saute- 
 pan, or take two saute-pans that will hold twelve on each, and place a 
 gill of clarified butter on each. Now put all your cutlets nicely into 
 shape, and as you do them place them in each sauffl-pan with the bones 
 turned from you ; place a round of paper on each, with a little butter 
 rubbed over each one. Place in the larder till the next day. And 
 now we will proceed to give the list of sauces for the dinner, also in¬ 
 structions for their preparation, also the quantities required. 
 
SAUCE ESPAGNOL. 
 
 343 
 
 LIST OF SAUCES. 
 
 Sauce Periqueux, for Creams of Salmon, one pint, 
 
 Sauce Mayonnaise, for Darioles of Soles, one pint. 
 
 Sauce Supreme, for Fillets of Fowls, one pint. 
 
 Asparagus Peas, for Lamb Cutlets, one pint. 
 
 Sauce Espagnol, for Lamb Cutlets, one pint. 
 
 Champignons, for Fillets of Fowl, one pint. 
 
 Best Gravy, for the Roasts, one pint. 
 
 Sauce of Tomatoes, for Chickens au Gratin, three half-pints. 
 
 Sauce Financiere, for Roast Quails, half pint. 
 
 Sauce Bechemelle for Cauliflowers au Parmesan, one pint. 
 
 Apricot Sauce, for Gateau Diplomatique, one pint. 
 
 Compote of Peaches, for Ice Puddings, one pint. 
 
 Compote of Mixed Fruit, for Jellies, one pint. 
 
 Bread Sauce, for Turkey Poults, half a pint. 
 
 Sauce Periqueux. —Chop up rather fine six truffles, add these to 
 one pint of Espagnol sauce with one gill of sherry; when boiled to 
 original consistence, skim and mark off in bain-marie. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce. —See sauce list for the number for July, and 
 follow the instructions given for the darioles in this number. 
 
 Supreme Sauce for Fillets of Chicken (cold). —Add one 
 ounce of pied de vean gelatine dissolved in one gill of hot aspic jelly, 
 and mix in supreme sauce before dipping the cold fillets of chicken in 
 the same (taking care to soak the gelatine in cold water for ten 
 minutes before placing it in the hot aspic jelly); and let it be partly 
 cold before mixing it in the supreme, and bear in mind, it is the extra 
 flavour of fowl that makes bechemelle sauce supreme sauce. 
 
 Asparagus Peas. —These the kitchen-maid will prepare from the 
 sprue grass, which are for garnishing the cutlets after they have 
 been dipped in supreme sauce. You will need one pint, as stated in 
 the sauce list. 
 
 Sauce Espagnol. —Mark off one pint in a stewpan; also one pint 
 
344 MACEDOINE OF FRUIT SAUCE FOR THE JELLIES. 
 
 of champignons, with their juice. Add a little pepper and salt, and let 
 boil till the sauce is reduced to its proper consistence, then skim and 
 mark it off for the lamb cutlets. 
 
 Best Gravy for the Roasts. —Mark off one pint, which will serve 
 you for the haunch of mutton, also for the roast turkey poults. 
 
 Sauce of Tomatoes. —See page 23 of January number, and follow 
 the instructions there given. 
 
 Financiere Sauce. —Boil one wineglass of sherry with half a pint 
 of Espagnol; let reduce to original consistence, and mark off. 
 
 Note .—It should be poured round the quails, when sending to table, 
 very hot. 
 
 Sauce Bechemelle. —This will be for the cauliflowers au Parme¬ 
 san. Place one pint in a bain-marie and mark off. 
 
 Apricot Sauce. —Boil eight ripe apricots in a gill of water with two 
 spoonfuls of sugar. When quite tender rub them through a sieve, and 
 add to them one glass of brandy and half a gill of good strong syrup. 
 It must be poured round your Gateaux Diplomatique and not over it. 
 
 Peach Sauce. —Take eight ripe peaches ; cut them in two, and 
 then remove the stones, which should be smashed in a mortar, and then 
 placed on the fire with half a pint of water and half a pound of lump 
 sugar. Let them simmer on the hot hearth for half an hour, and while 
 this is doing peel your peaches, and cut each half peach in two, and 
 place them in a kitchen-pan, and pour over them the syrup from the 
 peach stones, to which add a wineglass of brandy. Then cover with 
 paper, and mark off in the larder. 
 
 Note .—When this sauce is served round the ice pudding, the quarters 
 of peaches should be served in two piles and the syrup poured round. 
 
 Macedoine of Fruit Sauce for the Jellies. —Pick half a 
 pound of fine strawberries ; cut them in two ; also half a pound of black 
 and white grapes. Then add a pint of mixed currants, black and white, 
 and a couple of peaches cut in quarters and peeled. Place these in a 
 kitchen-pan with three spoonfuls of powdered sugar with a gill of French 
 noyeau. This macedoine of fruit should be served round the jellies 
 when turned out on their dishes. Now let me observe that the jellies, 
 when the macedoine is served round them, as here instructed, should 
 
THE FOUR CHICKENS. 
 
 345 
 
 be filled into the moulds quite plain. And to turn them out of the 
 moulds, they should be dipped in warm water quickly, the moulds then 
 dried with a cloth, and each mould taken between your two hands and 
 shaken gently; and when you find the jelly loose in the mould, turn it 
 into the centre of the dish upon which it is to go to table. 
 
 Bread Sauce. —Cut up two shalots in thin slices, and put them in 
 half a pint of hot milk. Let the milk gently simmer on the fire for 
 five minutes, then strain it on three good spoonfuls of bread crumbs, 
 beat into them a pat of butter, a little pepper and salt, and three 
 spoonfuls of cream, and make hot in the bain-marie case in a small 
 stewpan. 
 
 The sauces should now have their names written on slips of paper, 
 and should be placed on the handle of each bain-marie, and then 
 placed in the bain-marie case and put in the larder, leaving each 
 partly uncovered. 
 
 The oysters should be scalded and bearded, and the meat removed 
 from the shell of the lobsters, and be cut into pieces the size of the 
 oysters, and about one gill of bechemelle sauce added to the liquor 
 from the oysters. Let this reduce a few minutes; then add the 
 oysters and lobster, with four truffles cut into slices as thin as possible. 
 Then mark with the other sauce as ragout for the creams of salmon. 
 Now placing all things in order and with systematic arrangement, and 
 such things upon ice as need it, we will wait the coming morrow, or day 
 of the dinner. 
 
 Now we will suppose this to have* arrived, for there is nothing like 
 being forward, and nothing can give more pleasure to a cook’s mind 
 than to feel that such is truly the case. And having seen that all is 
 ready and in the kitchen that you need, we will proceed in regular 
 rotation with the different articles on the menu , to as far as possible 
 complete the same. So saw off the shank bone from the haunch. 
 
 The Haunch of Mutton. —With a sharp knife cut off the brown 
 spot of skin to be found thereon, and trim the same for roasting; when 
 ready, place in the larder ready for roasting. 
 
 The Four Chickens. —Place these, already trussed for boiling, in a 
 stewpan which will hold all four. Place about one pint of second stock 
 
346 
 
 THE CAULIFLOWERS AU PARMESAN. 
 
 with them, and let them slowly boil for half an hour. Then remove 
 them where they will soon become cool. Now with a sharp knife trim 
 the two ox tongues, shaving off thinly the first skin so as to show the 
 colour of the tongue, and pick out the best for the chickens, to be 
 served with them; and the other for cutting in scollops for the cold 
 entree of fillets of fowl. And let the essence from the chickens be 
 reduced to demi-glaze, to be added to the tomato sauce. Then the 
 chickens, when cold, should be dipped in flour and well egged over with 
 two whole eggs and two yolks, with a little salt, and beaten together with 
 a wire whisk ; after which, with an egg-brush dipped in the same, rub the 
 egg mixture well into the same ; then dip them into the bread crumbs, 
 and pat the bread crumbs on to the chickens (using a little pressure). 
 When all are coated with crumbs, place in the larder. When they 
 are required for dinner, they should be fried in some nice hot lard 
 (one at a time) of a bright gold colour, drained on a cloth, and 
 arranged on their dish, and the tongue well glazed and placed in the 
 centre, then the tomato sauce (to which has been added the demi-glaze). 
 And let me say, the tomato sauce should be rather thick, and if not 
 so, add a spoonful of corn flour mixed with a little water. Further¬ 
 more, the tomato sauce should be made from the fresh tomatoes 
 ordered expressly for the same, and poured round the chickens at the 
 last minute and sent away. 
 
 The Roast Turkey Poults and Roast Quails. —See that the 
 same are quite ready to put down to roast at the time you need them, 
 which should be, for the Turkey Poults, at seven o’clock, and the quails 
 at half past seven o’clock. 
 
 The Cauliflowers au Parmesan. —These, which form the 
 second course vegetables, should be boiled off with great care, and 
 placed on a hair sieve. When somewhat cold, cut away the part of 
 the rough hard stem, and press four of the cauliflowers together, so as to 
 resemble one ; and you will require two dishes. Place these cauliflowers 
 when pressed together on a small baking-sheet, with a little butter rubbed 
 over it. Place the cauliflower a little distance apart, and having grated 
 two ounces of Parmesan cheese, mix this with double its quantity of 
 bread crumbs. Then mask the cauliflowers with a little bechemelle 
 
THE GATEAU DIPLOMATIQUE. 
 
 347 
 
 sauce, and over this place the mixed Parmesan cheese and bread 
 crumbs. Then run over these a little clarified butter with the butter¬ 
 brush. Then place them in the oven to bake of a fine brown colour; 
 at a quarter past seven o’clock, when done, place them on two flat oval 
 dishes and keep them hot till needed, when serve round them some 
 bechemelle sauce. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE REMOVES. 
 
 Ice Pudding of Peaches a l’Americaine. 
 
 Gateau Diplomatique, Sauce of Apricots. 
 
 Ice Pudding of Peaches a PAmericaine. —For the ice pudding, 
 take three pints of fresh cream; to which add nine ounces of powdered 
 sugar and the inside (the seeds) of one fine stick of vanille, which 
 should be well rubbed together with two good spoonfuls of the powdered 
 sugar, to cause the seeds of vanille to separate; add also one gill of 
 maraschino. Freeze it after the same manner as the ices described in 
 the July instructions. When well frozen, it should be placed in a three- 
 pint ice pudding mould, and then well imbedded in pounded ice with 
 plenty of salt (which has been finely pounded) mixed with the same; and 
 be sure that the ice is well pressed round the pudding mould in a pail or 
 ice tub, and about six inches of well mixed ice and salt on the top of it. 
 This should be done about two hours before it is needed ; and when 
 called for, the mould should be taken out of the ice, dipped in a little 
 lukewarm water, then dried in a cloth, and the top and bottom removed, 
 and turned upon its dish, and the sauce with the peach quarters served 
 round it, and sent away. 
 
 The Gateau Diplomatique. —Take a quart-sized charlotte 
 mould, and if with a pipe, so much the better. Then have a little 
 pounded ice in a stewpan, and melt about half a pint of jelly ; but do not 
 make it more warm than needed. Place the mould on the ice to be¬ 
 come quite cold ; and when so, pour into it the liquid jelly, and keep 
 turning the mould round and round in your two hands, till the inside of 
 the mould is slightly covered with jelly. Then place this again on the ice 
 
34 § 
 
 THE GATEAU DIPLOMATIQUE. 
 
 to set the jelly. The bottom of the mould should now be garnished or 
 ornamented with angelica and dried cherries. Then the mould should be 
 placed upright in the stewpan, and the ice placed round it. This is readily 
 done by tilting the stewpan on one side. Now prepare one pint of very 
 smooth custard as follows :—Place half a pint of cream and half a pint 
 of milk in a two-quart stewpan upon the fire to boil. While doing so, 
 crack four fresh eggs into a kitchen basin, smelling each one carefully 
 for fear of a musty one; add also two yolks of eggs and two large 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat the sugar and eggs well together, 
 and directly the milk boils, remove from the fire. Add about one gill 
 of it at a time, beating the sugar and eggs together as you add the hot 
 milk. Then add another gill of milk in the same manner, till all the 
 milk and eggs are well mixed together. Then stir over the hot-plate till 
 the custard begins to thicken, when at once stir it very rapidly to prevent 
 it from curdling, and pour it quickly into a kitchen-pan, adding half a 
 gill of cold cream, and keep stirring for a couple of minutes till there is 
 no fear of curdling. You must then place in soak one ounce and a half 
 of pied de veau gelatine in half a pint of water ; let soak for ten minutes, 
 when place about three parts of a gill of hot water in a small stewpan on 
 the hot-plate, and when the water boils, strain the gelatine and put it in 
 the boiling water, and stir over the hot-plate till it boils ; and when all the 
 gelatine is quite dissolved, pour it into the custard you have just made, 
 and mix it well into the custard, adding the grated rind of a lemon, and 
 about half a grated nutmeg, and a wineglass of brandy. Stir well to¬ 
 gether ; then place about the half of a dariole full on the ice to set, and 
 when you see it is stiff enough, if placed in a large mould to turn out 
 like a jelly, it will do. Then split eight sponge cakes in two lengthways, 
 and spread a little apricot jam between them. After which cut them 
 in pieces, about half an inch wide, and place some round the bottom, 
 with a cherry between and a few broken ratifias over them. Pour in 
 about one gill of your prepared custard, and when this has set, then place 
 another row of sponge cake with another row of cherries (taking care to 
 place them near the outside of the mould so that they will show when 
 turned out). Continue in the same way till you have filled the mould ; 
 place a little more ice round it and mark off in the larder; when wanted 
 
BAVAROISE OF LEMONS A L’lTALIENE. 
 
 349 
 
 for table it must be carefully turned out like a jelly on to its dish (a flat 
 sheet dish), and the apricot sauce poured cold round it and sent to table. 
 
 The Jellies Macedoine a la Modern. —Melt sufficient jelly to 
 fill two quart jelly moulds, which must be washed in clean hot water 
 expressly for the occasion, and wiped dry. Then place them in a 
 kitchen-pan with some ice round them, and add a couple of liquor 
 glasses of maraschino to the jelly, stirring the same with a plated spoon 
 so as to mix it well with the jelly. Then fill the moulds and place them 
 in the larder, and prepare the macedoine of fruits as follows Pick the 
 pound of grapes and strawberries and cut them in two (each one), and 
 place them in a quart kitchen basin, and pick the mixed currants, and add 
 them to the strawberries and grapes. Then cut the remaining peaches 
 in two and peel each half. Cut these in half-quarters and add them to 
 the other fruits; when finished pour over them half a pint of champagne, 
 and shake amongst them two good spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and 
 cover them with paper and mark off in the larder. When the jellies are 
 turned out for sending to table, place half the macedoine of fruit round 
 each, with the syrup also, and send to table. 
 
 Bavaroise of Lemons a ITtalienne. —Smell eight lemons (and 
 
 remember lemons are sometimes musty, as well as eggs) ; if fresh and 
 
 fragrant, rub them on a piece of sugar to obtain the zest. When all 
 
 have been well rubbed, scrape the zest off with a sharp knife, and place 
 
 it in a pint stewpan. Then cut each lemon in two, and cut through the 
 
 pith in the centre of each half, and squeeze the juice through a pointed 
 
 tin strainer on the zest. Add to this one wineglass of sherry, and one of 
 
 brandy, and half a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Then place two ounces 
 
 of gelatine (the best pied de veau ) to^soak in half a pint of water, and 
 
 while this is soaking for about ten minutes whip up to a firm snow one 
 
 pint and a half of fresh cream, which when finished place upon a hair 
 
 sieve; and now place two quart jelly moulds (those with pipes in the 
 
 centre are the best), place these in a kitchen-pan with a little broken ice 
 
 round the moulds, then take half a pint^of liquid jelly, but not warm, 
 
 add to this a few drops of prepared cochineal so as to give it a slight 
 
 pink tint. Then carefully place half at the bottom of each mould to 
 
 become set. In the meantime place your gelatine into one gill of boiling 
 
 2 A 
 
350 
 
 CROUTES AU PARMESAN A L’lMPERIAL. 
 
 water, which should be in a small stewpan on the fire, and be kept stirred 
 with a small wooden spoon till quite dissolved, and let remain on the 
 hot-plate till quite hot. Now make the zest and the juice of lemons, 
 wine and brandy hot also. Then pour these into a five-pint stewpan 
 with the melted gelatine, to which add one pint of custard made the 
 same as for the Gateaux Diplomatique. Now add your whipped cream ; 
 mix well together with a wire whisk on the hot-plate (for a minute or 
 two). Then fill your two ornamental jelly moulds with the same, 
 tasting the mixture to see if sweet enough before filling the moulds ; 
 adding a little more sugar if needful. Then add a little water to the 
 ice that is round the mould, and place in the larder to set. When 
 turned out on to their dishes and ready for sending to table, pour about 
 one gill of cold syrup, to which has been added a spoonful of sherry 
 and ditto of brandy, with a few drops of prepared cochineal, which 
 should be divided between the two bavaroises then sent to table. 
 
 Croutes au Parmesan a lTmperial. —Take half a pound of 
 fine flour and rub into the same three ounces of butter. Then, make 
 a hole in the centre of the flour and butter and add two yolks of eggs 
 and a very small pinch of salt, and not quite a wineglass of water. 
 Mix this into a nice mellow paste, and let it lie under a damp napkin for 
 ten minutes, and while it is doing so, place half a pint of bechemelle 
 sauce on the hot-plate in a three-pint stewpan, and when it boils put it 
 aside and place in it four yolks of 'eggs (then stir it over the fire for the 
 eggs to thicken, but not to boil ); when it has thickened remove it 
 instantly from the fire, and keep it stirring off the fire for a couple of 
 minutes. Then add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a little 
 cayenne, and six anchovies, washed and dried, and the fillets pulled off 
 the bones, and then cut into fine dice, and added, or rather mixed, 
 into the sauce with the cheese and yolks of eggs. Then place the four 
 whites which you separated to obtain the yolks in a very clean white pan, 
 and leave them for a time. Now roll out the paste, which you at first 
 prepared, and cut from the same twenty circular pieces of paste, not 
 thicker than a shilling, and about the size of half a crown. With these 
 line twenty second-size French tartlet moulds (for which see illustrations 
 at the end of each number); when neatly lined cut off the rough edge 
 
CHERRY WATER ICE. 
 
 351 
 
 from each, and place them on a baking-sheet. About one hour 
 before the dinner time, add another white of an egg to the four you 
 have, and place them in a very clean copper bowl, and with an equally 
 clean wire whisk (which have both been scoured expressly, and are 
 both very dry), whip the whites of eggs to what we term a “ firm snow,” 
 which means when the whites of eggs show very white and firm, so 
 much so that they would bear the weight of an egg on the top of them 
 without shrinking or sinking. When at this point, mix half of them 
 into the mixture of bechemelle sauce, Parmesan cheese, and yolks ; when 
 the half has been mixed in them, lightly stir in the remainder, and then 
 divide this equally between the tartlet-moulds which you lined with 
 paste. Now cut out twenty more small round pieces with a fluted patty 
 top cutter, and dip these in clarified butter, and then into grated Par¬ 
 mesan cheese ; they should cut out about the size and thickness of a 
 shilling. They should be placed in the oven when the dinner is called, 
 and, when done, dished on ornamented papers on plates or small oval 
 dishes, and send very hot to table. 
 
 THE ICES. 
 
 Cherry Water and Raspberry Cream. —Make half a pound of 
 sugar into syrup by adding to the same half a pint of water in a stew- 
 pan. Let this come to the boil, and skim it • then place it to become 
 cold. Now rub with a wooden spoon the one pound basket of raspberries 
 through a hair sieve, and place the pulp thus prepared into a kitchen- 
 pan. Be careful to pick the raspberries before rubbing them through 
 the sieve. Add to the pulp the juice of one lemon and six ounces of 
 finely sifted and pounded lump sugar, about one tablespoonful of pre¬ 
 pared cochineal, and sufficient cream to make one quart; mix well 
 together, and place aside for the present. 
 
 Cherry Water Ice. —Pick and rub through a hair sieve one pound 
 of cherries. Then place the stones in the mortar, and well pound them. 
 And when they appear all smashed, place them in a stewpan with a gill 
 of water, and let them stew very gently for half an hour. Then strain 
 with pressure the essence from the kernels through a pointed sieve into 
 a small basin, and add this to the pulp of the cherries with the juice of 
 
352 
 
 THE FILLETS OF FOWL A MASTIC. 
 
 one lemon and a tablespoonful of prepared cochineal. Then measure 
 the same, and one quart is what you require, three parts of the pre¬ 
 pared syrup will be sufficient; add this to the pulp of cherries, and if 
 you have not sufficient to make one quart, make up the quantity with a 
 little water. Now taste the ice and see that it is palatable, putting in it, 
 before doing so, a wineglass of French noyeau. The ices should be put 
 in two three-quart freezers and frozen the same as for ice pudding, 
 a l’Americaine, previously described. Now let me add, if you wish it to 
 freeze gently and easily, place each ice in a freezer before you commence, 
 and do not add the salt to the pounded ice till you are quite ready to 
 freeze them, and instantly you have mixed the salt with the ice, place it 
 round the freezers. Then wiping the covers of the freezers, so as to 
 free them from any of the salted ice, commence to turn the freezers 
 round and round by means of the handle on the covers for about five 
 minutes. Then with your ice spatule scrape from the inside of each 
 freezer what has frozen thereon. Then again fix on the covers and turn 
 them round rapidly (one in each hand) for another five minutes, when 
 again remove what has frozen on the inside. Now your spatule should be 
 made to act its part as follows : hold the handle of the spatule between 
 your two hands and beat the frozen ice cream well together, and as you 
 do so making the freezer spin round. By this means the ice cream, or 
 water ice, will become very smooth and well mixed together. About 
 two hours before dinner fill your ice-moulds as directed for the ice 
 pudding, and well embed the same in pounded ice and salt mixed 
 together, using the ice round the freezers and some fresh pounded also 
 for this purpose. It will take four good double-handfuls of salt, well 
 mixed with sufficient pounded ice, to embed and well cover two quart 
 moulds of ice. And another point of guidance regarding the quantity 
 of salt you should use, is that the ice should show quite white among 
 the pounded ice, and be piled about six inches above the moulds. 
 When you have done this, always place a double-handful of salt over 
 the top of the ice, beneath which you have embedded the ice pudding 
 or the moulds of ice needed for the dinner. 
 
 The Fillets of Fowl a l’Aspic (cold). — Now we will dish the 
 fillets of fowl, for which we shall require about one pint and a half of 
 
THE FILLETS OF FOWL A L'ASPIC. 353 
 
 asparagus peas, which should at once be carefully boiled off, using a 
 little soda about the size of two peas, and a tablespoonful of salt in two 
 quarts of water. Do not put the peas in the water till it boils, and place 
 them on the hot-plate where they will keep rather quickly boiling. As 
 soon as they are done, strain them in a pointed tin sieve, and then dip 
 them in cold water, with a little ice in it, till the peas are cold, then 
 place them in a quart kitchen basin. Note.—It is well, when boiling 
 asparagus not to leave them till they are done, when strain and dip them 
 as above instructed. Now cut the smaller of the ox tongues in 
 scollops about the size and thickness of a two-shilling piece, or, we will 
 say, one size less. Sixteen pieces is the number you will require : cut 
 them first with a knife, and be very particular to cut them all of the 
 same thickness, and arrange them on a saute-pan, then make your glaze 
 hot, and lightly glaze them over. Then make your supreme sauce 
 warm by standing it in boiling water (that is to say, the stewpan con¬ 
 taining it), and when melted it should be stirred till it is cold, and you 
 can place the stewpan containing it in a little ice water, and when you 
 find it at the masking point, place it on the hot-plate for a second or 
 two, to prevent it setting too soon ; and if it will nicely mask the point 
 of your finger it will do. Now having cut out your fillets of fowl with 
 a fillet cutter, place each one, the rough side on the prongs of 
 your fork; dip each of the fillets into the supreme sauce, nicely mask¬ 
 ing the same, and arrange them as you do them on a saute-pan. Should 
 you find your sauce too thick, or inclined to set too soon, place the 
 stewpan containing it again on the hot-plate for a second or two; then 
 stir it again together, and try again, when no doubt all will be well, as 
 there is no difficulty in masking them after a very little practice. But be 
 careful to mask them evenly and uniformly, and not to place too much 
 sauce upon them, letting a portion run off, and with the fore-finger of 
 the left hand keep the edge of each fillet as free from surplus sauce as 
 possible. When all are finished then place a scollop of glazed tongue 
 on each, which should be placed nearly central on the wide part of the 
 fillets, leaving a margin at the top of each of about one-eighth and a 
 half of an inch. Now take about one gill of liquid aspic jelly (but not 
 
 warm), and with a very clean camel’s-hair glaze brush lightly mask each 
 
 2 B 
 
354 
 
 DARIOLES OF FILLETS OF SOLES. 
 
 fillet; and, when cold, repeat this operation a second time. Then 
 bring from the larder the prepared quenelle, and with this make two 
 neat borders in two entree dishes, and on each border dish at equal 
 distance apart the half of the fillets (but when the borders are ready 
 for dishing upon they should be both placed in the oven for a few 
 minutes, to set the quenelle). Now, having dished eight fillets on each 
 dish, chop up some aspic jelly rather fine and place this round the out¬ 
 side of the base of the fillets of fowl, and on this, leaning against the 
 side of the dish, a few neatly cut croutons of aspic jelly, which should 
 be of a triangular shape ; then melt a little aspic jelly, about one gill, 
 and pour this over the asparagus peas and toss them in this, or with a 
 spoon very lightly turn them over and over in this till the aspic jelly 
 shows it has begun to set. Then divide them between the two dishes, 
 letting them show as high as possible. And finally, glaze the small 
 fillets very lightly, and place them in circular form round the top of the 
 large fillets, leaning slightly towards the asparagus peas, when they are 
 ready for table. But till they are needed, place them on a china dish 
 with a little ice round them, drying the bottom of the dishes with a. 
 cloth before sending them away. 
 
 Darioles of Fillets of Soles en Mayonnaise (cold). — As 
 
 a full description has been given previously, both how to prepare and 
 dish the above, proceed as therein directed (at page 339), and when, 
 finished, place the same along with the cold fillets of chicken and 
 tongue, but place them on a china dish with some ice under them till 
 asked for. 
 
 The ices, and also the ice pudding being duly prepared, and the 
 fullest instructions having been given regarding them, we shall conclude 
 they are ready, or will be so, when asked for. 
 
 The next matter needing attention is the vegetables, which will con¬ 
 sist of peas, beans, and new potatoes, and the dressed vegetables for the 
 second course roast, consisting of cauliflowers au Parmesan. These 
 last being, as we will suppose, already prepared, the kitchen-maid will 
 attend to the same, also the plain vegetables. Now we will suppose 
 the time to be five o’clock, so let the range fire, also the hot-plate be 
 well looked to, and the haunch of mutton be put down to roast; and 
 
THE LAMB CUTLETS. 
 
 355 
 
 the bain-marie case with the soups, and the hot sauces be placed on the 
 hot-plate (the bain-marie case to be half filled with water), and let the 
 kitchen tablecloth be spread upon the dresser, and the soup tureens 
 arranged thereon, also the sauce boats; and see that all the silver 
 dishes and china, also the soup plates and dinner plates, are placed in 
 the screen, and well cleaned out, and kitchen paper spread in the same. 
 
 The Bill of Fare. —Now this important document should be 
 attentively read through and duly considered for fear that any little 
 matter has been unattended to, or in plainer words, forgotten ; and 
 nothing can possibly be more pleasurable or exhilirating to a cook’s 
 mind or feeling than to find all things progressing favourably, and that 
 your labours have thus far been crowned with success, and from all you 
 feel, think, and see, that your dinner, when served, will give satisfaction. 
 
 The Creams of Salmon. —Take away the ice which surrounds 
 them, and place enough hot water round the moulds to reach one-third 
 up the moulds, and let them very gently simmer for about a quarter 
 of an hour. 
 
 The Frying Fat. —Place a bladder of lard in a three-quart 
 stewpan to become hot on the hot-plate. 
 
 The Ox Tongue. —Place this also in a little water to make hot; 
 when it becomes so, dry it, and then glaze it twice over, and place in 
 the screen to keep hot. 
 
 The Lamb Cutlets. —Place a border of quenelle round the other 
 
 two entree dishes. The best way is to roll it out with a dust of flour 
 
 on the cutting-board into several lengths about the thickness of your 
 
 finger. Fix this on the inside of the dish, about one inch from the side 
 
 of the dish , and if a round dish you must make a round border, and if 
 
 an oval dish an oval border; and when the quenelle is placed for this 
 
 purpose on the dish, dip the middle finger of your right hand in some 
 
 flour. Then gently press your finger on the centre of the quenelle all 
 
 the way round it, so as to fix it upon the dish, as well as to form a half 
 
 or part-circle in the centre ; then take a tablespoon and dip it in hot 
 
 water and make the half-circle in the border of quenelle more full with 
 
 the aid of the hot spoon, which you will have to dip in the hot water 
 
 two or three times, to make the part-circle in the border nicely ; then 
 
 2 B 2 
 
356 
 
 THE CHICKENS AU GRATIN. 
 
 place your knife in the hot water and smooth the outside edge of the 
 border of quenelle ; and when both are finished in the same way, put 
 them in the oven to set for about three minutes : when firm to the 
 touch they will do. Then cover them and place them in the screen 
 till you are ready for them. And let the oven be kept hot to bake the 
 croutes au Parmesan, and now, if the fat is hot, we will prepare the 
 chickens au gratin. 
 
 The Chickens au Gratin. — Fry one chicken at a time in the 
 hot fat, and when of a nice gold colour it will do. Proceed thus till all 
 are fried; place them on a wire sieve and place before the range fire, 
 and see that the haunch of mutton is well basted, and is not too near 
 the fire. Now take the tongue ; dry it, and place it on a saute-pan 
 and glaze it, letting it stand in the oven a few minutes; then glaze it 
 again, and place in the screen. The frying fat can now be placed aside, 
 as it is done with. Now look to your creams of salmon, and feel them 
 with your finger. If they are firm and show they are light, draw them 
 aside to simmer very gently for ten minutes. Now look to your 
 bain-marie case ; and let the water in it only gentiy simmer. And lo ! 
 we will suppose the time now to be seven o’clock. So, let the turkey 
 poults be put down to roast; and the quails to follow at the half-hour, 
 and the head kitchen-maid boil off her peas and beans, not commencing 
 to boil the potatoes till ten minutes to eight o’clock; and now saute the 
 lamb cutlets, and, when done, dish the same towards your right hand ; 
 and the bones of the cutlets slanting from your right hand; and so 
 continue sloping round to the left, and finishing near where you began 
 on the right-hand side. When uniformly dished, place the covers over 
 them, and put them on the top but enclosed shelf generally reserved 
 for entrees only in the screen. Now look to the creams of salmon, take 
 them from the stewpan in which they have been cooking, and gently 
 tilt them on one side so as to drain any butter or moisture. Your eye, 
 as well as the touch of your finger, should tell you when they are 
 done. Now, when any grease or liquid should be drained off, turn the 
 darioles upside down. They should be dished on a second-size silver 
 dish, and should stand or be dished to match the shape of the dish. 
 But see! it wants five minutes to eight o’clock, so let the haunch, 
 
THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 357 
 
 which is quite done, also the turkey poults, be taken from the fire, 
 also the quails. Now turn to the soups and taste them, and—yes, 
 they are excellent! And hark! the dinner bell, and our able 
 assistants are hasting to take the dinner away. Instantly (as should be), 
 the soups are sent away. Now place the croutes au Parmesan in the 
 oven to bake; and look to your periqueux sauce, and the lobster and 
 oyster garniture, and bring the darioles of soles into the kitchen, and 
 bring the creams of salmon, and remove the moulds ; now place the 
 few mushrooms with the garniture; and place this in the centre of the 
 creams, then mask them with the periqueux sauce, and send them away, 
 for the call-bell has sounded; send also the darioles of soles. Now place 
 the mushrooms and espagnal sauce, seasoned with a little pepper and 
 salt, in a saute-pan on the fire to boil, adding also the juice from the 
 mushrooms, and at once reduce them to the proper consistence. Place 
 the four chickens au gratin in the oven to become thoroughly hot. Now 
 sauce the lamb cutlets, placing the mushrooms in the centre and pour 
 the sauce in equal portions round them—when again the call-bell rings, 
 and the cutlets have vanished. 
 
 The Supremes of Fowl. —Now bring in the supreme of fillets of 
 fowl, which, when asked for, are sent away. 
 
 The Removes. —Now dish up the haunch of mutton and see that 
 the best gravy is boiling hot and that the red currant jelly is in the sauce 
 boats. 
 
 The Chickens au Gratin. —Let these also be placed on a 
 large-sized dish, and see that the trussing-strings have been removed 
 and the ox tongue placed in the centre, and that the tomato sauce is 
 ready. Place the cauliflowers in the oven to gratinate, place them in 
 the hottest part of the oven, and notice how the croutes au Parmesan 
 are progressing. 
 
 The Vegetables. —Let the beans and peas be placed in two stew- 
 pans after being properly cooked, and a couple of pats of butter placed 
 with each, and do not let them be served till they are needed, but kept 
 on the hot-plate till the last moment. Do the same with the potatoes, 
 so that all may go to table very hot. And hark ! that bell is for the 
 removes ! So, let the chickens be sauced and sent first, and also the 
 
35 § 
 
 THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 haunch of mutton follow at once. Now dish and send away the 
 vegetables, send also a boat of hot gravy for the mutton, also the 
 red currant jelly in another boat. Now the first course is served, 
 and we will at once proceed to be ready with the second. The 
 first thing next needed will be the second course roast. So, place 
 the turkey poults and quails, and look into the oven and see if 
 the croutes are all right, also the cauliflowers; and the cauliflowers, 
 being nice and brown, can be placed on two oval dishes and kept 
 hot in the screen, and the door of the oven can be partly left open, 
 as the croutes are baking very nicely. Now look to your bread sauce 
 and the financiere sauce, also the bechemelle and plain gravy, and see 
 that they are all hot. Add a little cream to the bread sauce, which may 
 be a little too thick. Now see that two clean sauce boats are ready. And 
 hark ! the bell again ! and our assistants are waiting; so, pour the 
 financiere sauce round the quails, and plain gravy round the turkey 
 poults, and send away; also send the bread sauce in a boat, and 
 a little hot gravy in another; and also the cauliflowers au Parmesan 
 with some bechemelle, and send them away. We pause here a moment 
 to say that we trust our readers and sister professionals will perceive 
 our motive in thus describing the sending away of a good dinner; and 
 we very candidly confess that our motive is— instruction , and that in 
 more senses than one ; and one of them we consider important, 
 namely, to let it be seen that a cook should have the dinner, with all 
 its particulars, in his or her mind; also the strict punctuality needed in 
 sending the dishes away, and how necessary it is to be ready at all 
 points when the dinner is once asked for ! And now a pail of hot 
 water for the Gateaux Diplomatique and for the ice pudding a l’Ameri- 
 caine, and see that the cold sauces are ready for each— which are the 
 quarters of peaches and also the apricot sauce. The dishes should be 
 the oval silver dishes (second size), or china if you cannot obtain silver, 
 or wash two of the entree dishes, which will do extremely well; the 
 gateaux should be dipped in warm water, the same as a jelly, and turned 
 out very carefully, and the sauce poured round it. Do the same with 
 the ice pudding, taking care to dry the mould with a cloth before turn¬ 
 ing on the dish or pulling off the top and bottom lids. When turned 
 
GATEAUX OF ALMONDS AUX CONSERVE. 
 
 359 
 
 out, pour the peaches round the pudding and the syrup that is with 
 them, and arrange them with a plated fork. They can both be sent 
 away together and served together, giving a choice of two cold puddings, 
 one froze 7 i and one cold. 
 
 The Jellies and Bavaroises. —ikdd a little more warm water, or 
 rather, hot water to what you have, and obtain the covers from the 
 entree dishes if suitable, or other suitable dishes at hand. Turn out 
 the jellies first, but be careful to feel the water, and see that it is not 
 too hot. Hold each mould firmly, and plunge them right beneath the 
 water for a second; then dry the mould on a cloth; then take the 
 mould between both hands, and give it a gentle shake; and when you 
 feel it loose, turn it on to the centre of the dish (but before finishing 
 them look again in the oven, and bring the croutes au Parmesan close 
 to the front, and leave the door wide open for the present). Now turn 
 out the other jelly, and the two creams. Then place the macedoine of 
 fruit round the two jellies, equally dividing the same between them 
 and the syrup you have left; add a few drops of prepared cochineal to 
 it, and put a few tablespoonfuls round each of the creams, and, when 
 asked for, send them away together. 
 
 The Croutes au Parmesan. —Dish them up on two silver plates, 
 or small oval dishes, ten on a plate, using desert papers or napkin under 
 them; and still keep them very hot till asked for. 
 
 The Ices. —Turn them out by dipping the moulds in lukewarm 
 water. Then wipe the moulds dry, and remove the lids. They should 
 be sent to table on china or glass dishes, with two plates of ice wafers 
 with them. And thus the dinner has ended. 
 
 We will now proceed to give a list of selected entremets suitable for 
 dinners, wedding breakfasts, or suppers, which are as follows :— 
 
 Gateaux of almonds au conserve. 
 
 Gateaux a la Polonaise. 
 
 Gateaux of puff paste a la Frangaise. 
 
 Gateaux of Almonds aux Conserve. —Take \ lb. of butter, and 
 place it in a small stewpan on the coolest part of the hot-plate, to melt. 
 
360 GATEAUX OF ALMONDS AUX CONSERVE. 
 
 Skim off, when it has melted, any little scum on the surface and with a' 
 tablespoon remove the pure butter into a small white pan, taking care 
 not to mix any sediment with it. Then place three tablespoonfuls of 
 flour, and three of icing sugar, and mix them well together, and place 
 them in the screen to dry for half an hour. Then sift this mixture 
 through a wire sieve, and place it in some paper ready for use. Now 
 take two good shaped charlotte moulds, and be very particular to have 
 them very clean. Then rub them with a little lard (enough to mask the 
 inside), and place them in the month of the oven to become somewhat 
 hot; then with a soft cloth or old napkin rub out the lard. After this,, 
 take your clarified butter, and with a butter-brush work the butter till 
 it becomes creamy in appearance. Then nicely mask the inside with 
 rubbing the butter well in the mould to begin with; then finishing by 
 having the mould evenly and smoothly masked or coated with the clari¬ 
 fied butter (and by no means too thickly masked). Now place the 
 sugar and flour, which you lately dried, half in each mould, and shake 
 all over the inside. Then turn out the flour on some paper; then 
 place it back, and repeat the same operation again. Do the same with 
 each mould ; then take a sheet of foolscap paper, cut it in two, length¬ 
 ways, and fold each half evenly in two, and well butter one side, and 
 place this round one of the moulds (the buttered side inside), and tie 
 it round firmly and closely to the mould with some twine ; and serve 
 the other mould in the same manner. Then fold a sheet of kitchen- 
 paper four times, and place it on a baking sheet, and place the two 
 moulds firmly on this. Then have a copper bowl (the meranque bowl), 
 and a wire whisk well scoured out with a lemon and sand, and then 
 well washed out and dried with a cloth. Then weigh as follows : 12 oz. 
 of powered and sifted sugar, 8 oz. of sifted flour, and 2 oz. of ground 
 almonds, and xo whole eggs, and the gratings from the peel from one 
 lemon. Then place a two-quart stewpan on the fire half full of water, to 
 boil. While doing so, crack eight eggs, smelling each one as you do so ; 
 place them in the copper bowl as you do them, and when the eight eggs 
 are in the bowl, add the 12 oz. of sugar and the gratings from the lemon. 
 Then place the bowl in the stewpan (the water in which should be now 
 boiling), and beat the sugar and eggs together (over and over) for about. 
 
GATEAUX A LA POLONAISE. 361 
 
 ten minutes ; but do not let the water boil too quickly, for the batter 
 should be beaten till it becomes slowly warm, or say nearly hot. Then 
 remove it from the fire, and beat it lightly till it is cold; then mix the 
 almonds and flour together, and sift them through a wire sieve, and stir 
 them as lightly as possible into the batter. When nicely mixed together, 
 divide it between the two moulds, placing half in each. Then bake 
 them in an oven of pretty good heat : they will take about 35 or 40 
 minutes to bake, and when done, will feel firm on the top. But the 
 surest way is to run a thin wooden skewer down the centre when you 
 think they are done. If the skewer comes out of the cakes clean and 
 dry you may be sure they are done, and that they should be taken from 
 the oven, the papers removed, and then holding each one in a cloth, 
 tap them on the kitchen dresser (turning the mould round as you do 
 so), and when you find them loose, turn them out on to a hair sieve. 
 The next day cut them in slices, and spread some preserve between the 
 slices, which should be cut very evenly, and put together again with 
 exactness, when the sides should be spread over with apricot jam on 
 which should be sprinkled rather thickly some almonds blanched and 
 chopped rather fine. Then make a star on the top with some icing, 
 and between them place some apple and red currant jelly. But I 
 think they are best baked in plain moulds with a pipe in them, and 
 spread over the outside apricots and almonds. Serve a compote of any 
 kind of fruit in the centre, and by this last method there is no need to 
 cut the cake. When serving they should be dished on dessert papers 
 and served on silver plates or dishes. 
 
 Gateaux a la Polonaise. —Prepare two moulds as they were pre¬ 
 pared in the last receipt, and use exactly the same quantity of eggs and 
 sugar, but exclude the almonds , using two ounces more flour instead, 
 and bake them about the same time. The next day cut them in slices, 
 and when put together with the jam between they should be masked 
 until meranque, nicely ornamented with the same, and placed on two 
 croquant bottoms about one inch wider than the cakes, the projecting 
 base of which should also be ornamental. A few dried cherries and 
 very green angelica, or pistachio nuts split in two and made to imitate 
 wreathes up the sides, or round the base, or at the top, will give a good 
 
2,62 GATEAUX A LA POLONAISE. 
 
 appearance to this gateaux, also a little rose-tinted sugar in grains, 
 slightly sprinkled over it, will give a lively appearance to the same. 
 The mtTanque mixture for ornamentation (which is a most excellent 
 one) is made as follows :—Have the copper bowl and whisk used for this 
 purpose (scoured expressly) with a little sand, and a lemon cut in two; 
 rub one half of the lemon in the sand, with a few drops of water, and 
 rub the inside of the copper bowl with this, squeezing out the juice, and 
 using about half a spoonful of sand. If well scoured, in two or three 
 minutes it will show very bright; and scour the whisk at the same time, 
 and when both are done, wash them out with some water and dry them 
 with a cloth, then place them in a screen for a few minutes ; then weigh 
 six ounces of powdered sugar and six ounces of superfine icing sugar. Mix 
 these well together, put this on a sheet of paper, and place where it will 
 become warm. Then crack and part six eggs, taking care to smell and 
 examine each one critically, and if any show weak, place them aside and 
 use others. Put the whites of the eggs in the copper bowl, and be most 
 particular that there is no part of the yolk with them, if so it would spoil 
 the miranque. Now, with your clean whisk beat up the whites of eggs 
 to a firm snow , that is to say till they show a firm, smooth, and compact 
 body, in fact so firm, that it would readily support a large egg upon it, 
 which would not sink in the least. While you are beating it, let one of 
 your assistants sift the sugar through a wire sieve, and if it is a little 
 warm, so much the better; if not, place it at the mouth of the oven for 
 a moment or so till it is. Then mask the side and top of the cake with 
 this; after which place it upon what is termed in the kitchen a croquant 
 bottom or stand, which is made as follows :—Mix half a pound of 
 powdered sugar with a pound of flour ; mix this together with two whole 
 eggs and two yolks, and a few drops of water. It should make a firm 
 paste and be rolled out about one-quarter of an inch thick, or say a 
 little less; and cut them out into rounds about one inch wider than the 
 bottom of a quart-size charlotte mould ; prick them well with a fork and 
 then place them on a buttered baking sheet, and bake them in an oven 
 not too hot. When done, put one on the other and place a plate with a 
 two pound weight in it upon them, for half an hour, when the edges of 
 each should be neatly trimmed, so that each croquant stand forms a per- 
 
GATEAUX OF PUFF PASTE A LA FRANCAISE. 363 
 
 feet circle or as nearly so as possible, and when you have trimmed as 
 many stands as you need, they look extremely well, masked over with 
 some pink icing made of icing sugar, and whites of eggs well mixed and 
 beaten together. When of the consistence of double cream, and a little 
 prepared cochineal added to the same so as to make it of a light-coloured 
 pink, spread this with your knife evenly over the croquant stand so that 
 it will mask the outside edge. Then place them on a clean baking- 
 sheet. Let me observe that the icing should not be put on thick, but 
 just enough to nicely mask them. Place them in the screen to dry 
 after they are masked, or at the mouth of the oven, with the door open 
 for a few minutes, when they will be ready for use. Now when the 
 gateaux above described have been masked with meranque, place each 
 upon one of your prepared croquant stands; finish it in accordance 
 with the hints given, or as your own mind may direct. After you have 
 finished, place them in the screen to dry, that the meranque may become 
 crisp with which they have been covered and ornamented; dish them 
 on ornamental dessert papers upon silver plates or dishes when sending 
 to table. Let me add that croquant stands should always be ready, and 
 if kept in paper in a box they will never spoil if kept in the kitchen ; 
 and they look well under pastries, meranques, or gateaux. 
 
 Gateaux of Puff Paste a la Francaise.—Take some trim¬ 
 mings of puff paste, and rub about as much flour into the same as you 
 have paste. Then let it rest with a damp cloth over it for half an hour. 
 Then roll it out and fold it in the usual mannner ; next cut it out into 
 rounds two inches in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick. Then 
 press in the centre and gather up the outside edge so as to make each 
 piece of paste into a round ball, which by rolling out will give a rounded 
 edge. Each piece of paste should be rolled out exactly of the same 
 size and about four inches in diameter. You will require nine rounds 
 to make one gateaux: these should be well pricked through with a fork, 
 then arranged on a baking-sheet, and baked in an oven of pretty good 
 heat, taking care the rounds of paste are well baked but not of a dark 
 colour ; and before placing five of the rounds on the sheet cut out a 
 piece from each of about one inch and a half in diameter, and cut out 
 an extra round in case of accident. Let me add that each piece when 
 
364 GATEAUX OF PUFF PASTE A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 rolled out to its full size should be a quarter of an inch in thickness. Then 
 you will want a round piece for the top, which, when cut out, should 
 be egged over and a crown of neatly-made leaves placed on the top. 
 This should also be baked of a nice colour, and a little sugar should be 
 shaken over it and salamandered at once when taken from the oven. 
 Now we will suppose your rounds of puff paste done, and that you have 
 a croquant stand ready to build your rounds of puff paste upon, which 
 do as follows: — Take some nice firm raspberry jam, spread a little on 
 the crouquant stand; then fix one round of the baked puff paste on it, 
 and spread this over with raspberry jam, placing the jam on the same 
 evenly and not too thick, and not quite to the edge. Proceed in the 
 same way with the five solid pieces ; then follow with the rings, putting 
 a little jam between each, sufficient only to stick them together. Then 
 whip sufficient cream to a firm snow, sweeten it with vanille sugar, and 
 fill up the hole in the centre with this. Then with a little icing make 
 a wreath with Angelica leaves and dried cherries ; and you must bear 
 in mind to cut the round piece for the top one size smaller than the 
 other rounds, which will enable you to ornament the top border neatly 
 and well. 
 
 Note also.—If you have no trimmings of puff paste, make one pound 
 of flour and three quarters of a pound of butter into puff paste (receipt 
 for which see Vol-au-vents, page 149), and proceed with this as directed 
 above. I mean in reference to rubbing, say half its quantity of flour 
 into the same, then letting it rest under a damp cloth for half an hour, 
 when it should be rolled out evenly and smoothly, and cut into 
 rounds and rings as if it were trimmings of puff paste you had to use. 
 
FILLETS OF TURBOT A L’lNDIENNE. 
 
 365 
 
 A CHOICE SELECTION OF SEA FISH. 
 
 A variety of the different kinds of sea-fish which does not appear in the 
 different Menus hitherto printed in this work, but which will prove an 
 extremely choice selection, and most of which can be obtained all the 
 year round, while those which prove the exception are pointed out. 
 
 TURBOT. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot a lTndienne. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot a la Cardinal. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot with Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot with Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot a lTndienne. —Take what is termed a fine 
 chicken turbot, and cut it straight down the centre from the head to the 
 tail. Then slant your knife and cut under what we term the fillet, 
 keeping your knife close to the bones, and so remove it. Now proceed 
 to do the same with the other three fillets. And then chop up the 
 bones (but not the head) quite small. Place them in a suitable sized 
 stewpan, and cover them with a pint of good white stock, adding a few 
 stock-pot vegetables, with a bouquet of thyme, parsley and bayleaf, and 
 let boil very gently for an hour ; during which time cut the fillets into 
 neat scollops on the slant and somewhat in the shape of a well-grown 
 pear. 
 
 Then place some clarified butter on a saute-pan and sprinkle them with 
 pepper and salt, and place a round of paper over them, and when 
 needed dress them au four , which means in the oven, which should be 
 of good heat (they will take about twelve minutes to cook), when dish 
 them on a border of potatoe paste with plain boiled rice round them 
 and a curry sauce poured in the centre. (For curry sauce for fish, see page 
 55 in the number for February.) 
 
 A little plain-boiled rice should be sent to table with the fillets. 
 And the essence from the bones should make the curry sauce, adding 
 
366 FILLETS OF BRILL A LA GENOISE. 
 
 a little veloute sauce if needed; about one pint of sauce should 
 serve you. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot a la Cardinal. —Cut the fillets from a chicken 
 turbot, and trim them the same, and cook them au four and dish on a 
 border of potatoes ; and when the essence from the bones has boiled 
 one hour, mix it with a little roux (having strained the same) to the 
 consistence of Espagnol sauce, and let it boil a short time. Then rub 
 about the half of a gill of live spawn through a hair sieve with a few 
 drops of water, and take care to scrape it off the bottom of the sieve with 
 an iron spoon. Add the same to the sauce, mixing a little of the sauce 
 with the spawn. Then place it in the sauce, which finish the same as 
 for cardinal sauce (for which see page 127 in the number for March). 
 The sauce should be poured over, and round the fillets of turbot when 
 sending to table ; and of course without any rice. 
 
 Fillets of Turbot with Oyster Sauce. —Prepare the fillets, as 
 far as cutting them goes, the same as for those named a l’lndienne, and 
 place the bones on the fire with water only. But chop up the inside of 
 a nice fresh lobster (the body) and add this to the bones of the turbot, 
 which when they have boiled one hour, should be made into lobster 
 sauce (the same as described at page 124 in the number for March); but 
 keep the meat from the lobster in a separate stew-pan after you cut it 
 up with a few spoonfuls of sauce with it, which when your fillets of 
 turbot are dished, and you are about to sauce the same, place the lobster 
 meat in the centre of the dished fillets, and pour the sauce very hot 
 round the same and send to table. 
 
 A plain boiled turbot, or part of a turbot, can also be sent to table 
 with any of the sauces sent with the above dishes , and will be found most 
 excellent. 
 
 BRILL. 
 
 Fillets of Brill a la Genoise. 
 
 Fillets of Brill with Prawn Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Brill a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 
 Fillets of Brill a la Genoise.—Cut the fillets from a small brill 
 exactly the same as for the turbot. Chop the bones up and cover them 
 with water, and let boil for one hour, adding also a few stock-pot vege- 
 
FILLETS OF BRILL A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL. 367 
 
 tables and a bouquet, and when it has boiled one hour strain it and 
 boil it down to about one gill, which add to one pint of Espagnol 
 sauce, and finish the same as for Genoise sauce (for which see 
 page 55). The fillets of brill should be cut the same in shape 
 and manner as described a page or two back for the turbot a. 
 l’lndienne, and dished on a border of potatoes; a few small capers 
 should be added to the Genoise sauce, and it should be poured very 
 hot over and round the fillets of brill when serving. 
 
 Fillets of Brill with Prawn Sauce. — Prepare the fillets as 
 above ; trim them the same in shape ; mark them off on a saute-pan, 
 and finish them in the oven and dish the same also; and when the 
 bones have stewed one hour strain off and make it into a butter sauce 
 exactly in the same manner as for the lobster sauce a few pages back 
 (not forgetting the live spawn). 
 
 Then open a pint canister of American preserved prawns, which are 
 really most excellent and very large, but do not add the prawns to the 
 sauce, but cutting each one in two, mark them in a small stewpan 
 by themselves, only adding a few tablespoonfuls of sauce, and make 
 both very hot, pouring the sauce round and over the fillets, and your 
 prawns in the centre; and serve very hot. 
 
 Fillets of Brill a la Maitre d’Hotel. —Prepare these as the 
 above in all particulars, the only difference being in the sauce, which 
 make as follows :—When the essence from the brill bones has boiled 
 the specified time, strain it off, and then thicken with sufficient white 
 roux, and let gently boil for about ten minutes, during vvhich time chop 
 very fine indeed a half-handful of picked and fresh parsley, which 
 should be placed in a pointed tin strainer, and dipped in some boiling 
 water with a little salt in it for a minute, and then dried in a cloth, and 
 placed in a small kitchen-pan till you are ready to use it. The sauce 
 should be then nicely skimmed, and should be as thick as double cream; 
 of which add about half a gill to the sauce, and when it has boiled 
 strain it through a tammy cloth into a small stewpan, to which add a 
 large pat of butter, which stir in with the juice of half a lemon, 
 and a little pepper and salt; also the half of a tablespoonful of essence 
 of anchovy. 
 
368 QUENELLES OF DORY A LA PASCALINE. 
 
 Just before serving round the fillets of brill, stir in the blanched and 
 chopped parsley, and send to table very hot. 
 
 Note. —A brill can be sent to table plain boiled, with any of the sauces 
 named above. 
 
 JOHN DORY. 
 
 Quenelles of Dory a la Pascaline. 
 
 Creams of Dory a l’lmperial. 
 
 Scollops of Dory en Fritot a la Hollandaise. 
 
 Quenelles of Dory a la Pascaline. —Take the fillets from a 
 good size dory, the same as instructed for the chicken turbot, and 
 cut off the white meat from the skin, which place on a plate and let 
 it be well pounded in the mortar and afterwards rubbed through a 
 wire quenelle sieve. Then cut off the head and chop up the 
 remainder of the bones, and place them in a suitable size stewpan 
 with a gill of white stock and three gills of water, adding a fine 
 stock-pot of vegetables, also a bouquet of parsley and thyme and 
 bayleaf, and let boil slowly for about one hour, when it should be 
 strained off and mixed into sauce with sufficient white roux to 
 make it as thick as single cream. Then let it gently boil or simmer 
 for about half an hour, when remove any scum and fat from the 
 surface, and reduce it by boiling to its proper consistence, when add 
 about one gill of double cream, and pass it through a tammy cloth. 
 Then add to the same a small pat of butter and six preserved 
 champignons chopped very fine, also the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 Now chop fine also a half handful of picked parsley, which blanch 
 for a minute in some boiling water with salt in it, which place in a 
 small kitchen-pan, and mix the same in the sauce just before serving it. 
 And now mix the white flesh of the dory into quenelle the same as for 
 the quenelles of pheasant, using the flesh from the dory instead of that 
 from the pheasants, and model, cook, and dish them the same. For 
 quenelles of pheasants, and how to prepare them, see page 15 in the 
 number for January ; and when they are dished make the pascaline 
 sauce very hot, as in the bain-marie case, and do not let it boil, for 
 no sauce with butter in it should do so. 
 
SCOLLOPS OF DORY A LA HOLLANDAISE. 369 
 
 Creams of Dory a l’lmperial. —Prepare the flesh from a good 
 size dory, exactly the same as for the above. And when it has been 
 pounded and passed through the quenelle sieve, finish the same as for 
 the creams of haddock (at page 103), but bear in mind the description 
 there is for two dishes, but here it is for one. The plam dariole moulds 
 well buttered are the best for this purpose. 
 
 After they are duly finished make an imperial sauce to serve with 
 them ; about one dozen should make a nice dish for a small dinner. 
 Tor instructions how to make the imperial sauce see page 125, but 
 use the essence which comes from the trimmings of the dory to make 
 the sauce with; and fail not to use about half a tablespoonful of 
 anchovy essence with the saine, and send boiling hot to table. 
 
 Scollops of Dory a la Hollandaise.— Take a good-sized dory 
 and cut the fillets from the same, the same as for the turbot, just de¬ 
 scribed, and then cut some medium-sized scollops from the same, and do 
 not cut them too thick. When you have neatly arranged the scollops on a 
 dish, cover them with a plate and place them in the larder; then place 
 the trimmings cut up fine in a stewpan with a pint of best stock and 
 about three parts of a pint of water, also a few stock-pot vegetables, and 
 a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bayleaf, which let boil for about one 
 hour, then strain it, and mix it with some white roux into a sauce about 
 as thick as single cream, and let it gently boil, to throw up from the roux 
 the butter, and any scum that may rise, which skim off, and then reduce 
 to its proper consistence. It should be then finished for Hollandaise 
 sauce, using it instead of bechemelle. (For Hollandaise sauce see page 
 127.) 
 
 Be careful when it is made not to let it boil, and make it hot in the 
 bain-marie case. After this prepare one half-pound of flour for a 
 fritter batter, and for which see ^age 30, in the number for January. 
 When about to prepare the scollops of dory for dinner, put on the hot¬ 
 plate your frying lard (about two pounds), and when you are certain it 
 is hot enough, then spread out your scollops of dory on a dish, and dust 
 them over with a little flour, and act the same with both sides. 
 
 Then dip them into the batter (masking them completely with the 
 
 same, but not too thick), and gently place them in the fat, frying off about 
 
 2 C 
 
370 
 
 SCOLLOPS OF TROUT. 
 
 six scollops at a time : they should be fried of a light-brown colour, taking 
 care the fat is not too hot. As you fry them place them on a wire sieve 
 by the side of the dripping-pan. When they are finished, dish them in 
 a pile. Pour the Hollandaise sauce round them, and send to table. 
 Dories plain boiled can also be served with any of the sauces mentioned 
 in the above dishes of dory. 
 
 TROUT. 
 
 These can be obtained from April to September. But I think them 
 best for flavour and colour in May, June, and July. 
 
 Scollops of Trout panee a l’Imperial. 
 
 Scollops of Trout au four a la Bohemienne. 
 
 Scollops of Trout en Maletote Normande. 
 
 Scollops of Trout panee a lTmperial. —Split a medium-sized 
 trout from the head to the tail, keeping your knife close to the central 
 bone; then cut out the bone by passing your knife close underneath it. 
 Next divide it into pieces of equal length, say of about three and a half 
 inches long, and cut them into as many handsome scollops as you can 
 obtain, and according to the number you may have to dinner. 
 
 When trimmed into shape (which should be like the inside of a pear 
 when cut in two), egg and bread-crumb them the same as for cutlets ; 
 after which pour about a gill of clarified butter on a level saute-pan and 
 patting the scollops into shape, arrange them on the same. When 
 required for dinner saute them over a fire of a light-brown colour, and 
 dish them on a border of potatoe paste, and pour a sauce imperial 
 round and in the centre, and serve. 
 
 Note .—The bones and the trimmings, but not the head, should be put 
 on the fire (after being cut small) in a stewpan with about a gill of veloute 
 and a spoonful of anchovy sauce and a little water, and allowed to 
 simmer for about half an hour; these should be strained through a pointed 
 tin strainer, and added to the imperial sauce before serving. 
 
 Scollops of Trout au four a la Bohemienne.—Prepare these 
 as the above, but do not bread-crumb them, but arrange them plain on 
 a saute-pan, upon which you had previously run one gill of clarified 
 
SCOLLOPS OF TROUT. 
 
 371 
 
 butter, then arrange the scollops on the butter (but take care to dip 
 each side in the butter). They should be cooked in the oven, and 
 about five minutes will cook them if your oven is of pretty good heat: 
 when done they will feel firm to the touch. They should be dished on 
 a border of potatoes very carefully, and when needed for table pour 
 round and over them a Bohemienne sauce made by adding a glass of 
 sherry and four truffles chopped fine to half a pint of Espagnol sauce, also 
 two tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar; and the essence extracted from the 
 trimmings and bones, as described for the preceding scollops. When 
 these have boiled up and have been nicely skimmed, the sauce is ready 
 to use, and should be poured over the scollops and round them, and 
 sent to table. 
 
 Scollops of Trout en Matelote Normande. —Prepare the 
 scollops of trout as for the above, also the essence. When the trout 
 are cooked and dished with care on a border of potatoes a ragout en 
 matelote Normande should be served in the centre. Then strain off 
 the essence from the bones and trimmings of the trout, which place in 
 a stewpan with the juice from a small canister of mushrooms and one 
 wineglass of sherry, and about three parts of a pint of veloute sauce. 
 Stir these with a wooden spoon till reduced to the consistence of single 
 cream. 
 
 Then add three yolks of eggs and one pat of butter, and one gill of 
 cream, which beat well together in a pint kitchen-pan, when the 
 sauce should be removed on to the dresser and a little (about a gill) 
 mixed with the eggs and cream, and afterwards added to the remainder 
 in the stewpan ; when again place it on the fire, and stir it till nearly 
 boiling, and it has become thicker through the yolks of eggs. It should 
 then be quickly turned into a kitchen-pan, and stirred for a few minutes, 
 then squeezed through a tammy cloth into a small stewpan, and a little 
 salt and cayenne added. 
 
 Next it should be placed in the bain-marie pan till ready for use. The 
 ragout en matelotte Normande should be composed of half a pint of 
 preserved champignons, with six truffles cut in slices, the tails of about 
 one dozen fine prawns, and the flesh from the tail of a lobster, cut in 
 dice. These should be built in a pile in the centre of the scollops of 
 
372 
 
 STURGEON k LA GENOISE. 
 
 trout, and be particular your matelote sauce is of the right con¬ 
 sistence (that of single cream) when sending to table. A little of the 
 sauce should be poured over the ragout, then the scollops should be 
 lightly glazed, and the sauce poured round the scollops and sent to 
 table. A truffle chopped very fine and sprinkled over the scollops 
 after they have been glazed, is an improvement. Plain boiled trout 
 served with any of the sauces used for the above dishes will be found 
 most excellent. 
 
 STURGEON. 
 
 Sturgeon a la Genoise. 
 
 Sturgeon en Matelote. 
 
 Sturgeon a la Genoise. —Obtain a prime cut of sturgeon, about 
 five pounds, and lay the skin side on your cutting-board, then with a 
 sharp knife cut off the skin sufficiently deep to show the prime of the 
 fish. Then cut a few slices of thin fat bacon, and spread some on the 
 bottom of a stewpan, or, rather let me say, an oval braizing-pan, with 
 a fish-slice to fit. On this place the piece of sturgeon. 
 
 There should also be placed on the top some slices of bacon; when 
 proceed to cut up, as finely as possible, two onions, and the yellow 
 part of two carrots, with one head of white celery, and some thyme 
 and parsley. These should be placed round the fish, with a pint of 
 best stock, and a half pint of good sherry. 
 
 Then place it on the hot-plate to braize, the same as you would 
 for a fricandeau, for about the same time. After it has braized for 
 one hour try it with a pointed wood skewer. If the skewer goes 
 readily and easily through the fish it is done, and if not, let it braize 
 till tender. When it becomes so, carefully remove it from the braizing 
 kettle, and remove the fat bacon or any particles of vegetables, and 
 then place it on a clean saute-pan, and glaze it, and place it in the 
 oven, leaving the oven door open, so as to dry the glaze on the fish; 
 the liquor, or essence, from the braize should then be strained into 
 a stewpan, and mixed with sufficient brown roux to make the Genoise 
 sauce from the same ; mix it about as thick as single cream, and let 
 it very gently boil, when open a pint canister of preserved champignons, 
 
STURGEON EN MATELOTE NORMANDE. 
 
 373 
 
 and add the juice from them to the sauce, also two tablepoonfuls of 
 anchovy sauce and a half-gill of malt vinegar and a small teaspoonful 
 •of sugar. 
 
 While your sauce is progressing, give the sturgeon another coat of 
 glaze, and still keep it in the oven till it assumes a bright, glossy 
 appearance, when dish upon the dish on which it will go to table, 
 and place it then in the screen or hot closet, covered over. Then 
 return to your sauce, and remove with care any grease and scum 
 that may show on the surface, when it should be stirred over the 
 hot-plate with a wooden spoon till of the proper consistence to serve 
 with sturgeon. 
 
 It should then be twisted through a clean tammy cloth into a lesser 
 stewpan and placed again on the hot-plate. Then place in the same 
 the pint tin of champignons and a couple of spoonfuls of small-sized 
 capers; let these simmer in the sauce till the sturgeon is needed for 
 table, when again skim the sauce and pour round the fish, and send 
 away. 
 
 Sturgeon en Matelote Normande. —The same sized piece of 
 sturgeon should be trimmed and braized in the same manner, and then 
 glazed, when the liquor or gravy from the braize should be made into 
 sauce. Then prepare a ragout en matelote Normande. Make one 
 haddock into quenelle, the same as for quenelle of veal, using the whole 
 flesh of the haddock instead of veal (for which see quenelle of veal, at 
 page 21 in the number for January). When this is right for consistence, 
 add or mix with it about a half-gill of live spawn rubbed through a hair 
 sieve with a few drops of water, and then thoroughly mix it with your 
 fish quenelle, after which make it into small quenelles, as described at 
 page 21 ; which, when they have been cooked, mix them with one tin of 
 champignons and truffles cut in slices, the tail of a lobster cut into dice 
 about half an inch square, and the flesh from the tails of two dozen 
 prawns: all of these should be tossed in a stewpan, and a couple of 
 spoonfuls of stock added to make them hot in. 
 
 When your sturgeon has been sauced, place a small pile of the 
 ragout on the top, and the rest in two piles round the fish, and then 
 send it to table. 
 
374 
 
 BOILED SLICES OF CODFISH. 
 
 CODFISH. 
 
 This fish is generally in season from October to April. 
 
 Codfish au Gratin, Sauce a lTmperial. 
 
 Boiled slices of Codfish a la Hollandaise. 
 
 Fried slices of Codfish with Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Codfish au Gratin, Sauce a lTmperial. —Take two or three 
 slices of the prime cut of a codfish, skewer them up tightly, and shake 
 a little flour well about them. Then crack two whole eggs and two 
 yolks. Add a little salt to the same, and beat them together. Have 
 also some fresh-made bread crumbs, and now take one of your slices of 
 codfish and place it on a dish. Then with your egg-brush thoroughly 
 well mask each slice of fish with your prepared eggs, after which place 
 it among the bread crumbs, and with both hands cause as many bread 
 crumbs as possible to adhere to each slice of fish. 
 
 When both are finished, place them on a baking-dish, and run a little 
 clarified butter (say about one gill) between the two slices of fish, when 
 bake them in an oven of pretty good heat till of a nice bright gold colour. 
 About one half-hour should cook them, and when cooked place them 
 upon the dish on which they will go to table, and keep them in the 
 hottest part of the screen till needed to go to table. Then pour round 
 three parts of a pint of imperial sauce with a tablespoonful of anchovy 
 sauce mixed in the same, and send to table (see page 125 for the sauce 
 a l’imperial). 
 
 Boiled Slices of Codfish a la Hollandaise. — Skewer and 
 tie up tightly two prime slices of crimped codfish. Taking a fish- 
 kettle of water boiling, with about four quarts of water, put a small 
 handful of salt in it, then place the two slices of codfish on the 
 fish slice, and submerge the same in the boiling water, and let boil 
 for twelve minutes very slowly; when remove it from the fire till you 
 are ready to dish it up. It should be dished on a drainer with a little 
 parsley to garnish it when sending to table, and Hollandaise sauce 
 served in two sauce-boats (for the making of which see page 127 in the 
 number for March). 
 
FILLETS OF HADDOCKS. 
 
 375 
 
 Fried Slices of Codfish with Oyster Sauce. —Take three 
 slices of codfish, cut them, and let them be skewered up tightly, and 
 egged and bread-crumbed the same as for the slices au gratin. When 
 needed for dinner they should be fried in clean hog’s lard (one slice at 
 a time), taking care the fat is nice and hot before placing the slice of 
 fish in the same, and to select a slice large enough to readily remove 
 the fish when done; and each slice should be fried of a light-brown 
 colour. 
 
 Now, let me state that the reason for frying one slice at a time is 
 that codfish contains a good deal of moisture, and would prevent the 
 same from frying brown, if more than one slice should be put in the fat at 
 a time. When all are fried, place them on a napkin with a drainer 
 under it upon the dish on which it will go table, and serve two boats of 
 oyster sauce with it (for making which see page 23 in the number for 
 January). 
 
 HADDOCKS. 
 
 Fillets of Haddocks au Gratin a la Hollandaise. 
 
 Creams of Haddocks a lTmperial. 
 
 Haddocks, Plain boiled, with Egg Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Haddocks au Gratin a la Hollandaise. —Cut 
 
 the fillets from two medium-sized haddocks, and place them as you do 
 them on a dish beside you. Then cut up the bones small (but not the 
 head). Cover them with a pint of good white stock, and add a small 
 handful of stock-pot vegetables and a bouquet of thyme, parsley, and 
 bayleaf. Now bring quickly to the boil; after which let gently simmer 
 for one hour, when it should be strained off and mixed with white roux 
 into sauce about the consistence of double cream. Now let gently 
 boil till the butter from the roux has risen from the surface, which 
 should be carefully removed, and any scum which may show. 
 
 This sauce should then be made into Hollandaise sauce (for making 
 of which see 127 in the number for March). When the sauce is made 
 and marked off, then take the four fillets of haddock, and spread one 
 lengthways before you, and cut them into scollops. Cut them on the 
 slant, and do not cut too dose to the skin, and let them be of the usual 
 
376 HADDOCKS, PLAIN BOILED, WITH EGG SAUCE. 
 
 size for a dinner, and somewhat in the shape of a well-formed pear 
 when cut in two (and it is of the inside of the pear I speak). 
 
 When all are cut out, egg and bread-crumb the same as for cutlets 
 in the ordinary way, when pour a little clarified butter on a saute- 
 pan, and neatly arrange the scollops upon this. When needed 
 for dinner place them in a rather hot oven to cook, and when of 
 a light brown colour they will do. About fifteen minutes should cook 
 them, or a little longer, according to the oven. Dish them on a slight 
 border of potatoes, and when sending to table, pour round them the 
 Hollandaise sauce, and some in the centre, and take care it is made 
 hot in the hot water of the bain-marie case. 
 
 Creams of Haddock a lTmperial. —Cut the fillets from two 
 medium-sized haddocks close to the bone, and let your knife enter close 
 up to the head, and cut through the whole length of the fish, and so 
 with each fillet. Then scrape off the white flesh from the same, when 
 it should be well pounded and passed through a wire quenelle sieve and 
 finished the same as at page 103 in the number for March. 
 
 Then fill as many buttered dariole moulds as you can with same ; 
 and sprinkle a little very finely chopped truffle in each dariole before 
 filling them (the dariole moulds quite plain in design are the best for 
 this dish) ; serve with them in the centre, and round them, when dished 
 up, an imperial sauce (for which see page 125 in the number for March), 
 and send very hot to table, not saucing till the last moment before 
 sending to table. 
 
 Haddocks, plain boiled, with Egg Sauce.—Take two best 
 quality haddocks, and see that the insides are quite free from blood, 
 and have ready in an oval fish-kettle about five or six quarts of boiling 
 water, in which you have placed a small handful of salt. Then place 
 the haddocks on a fish drainer, and twenty minutes before the hour 
 named for dinner, put them in the boiling water, and bring again quickly 
 to the boil. Let the haddocks boil fifteen minutes; then remove them 
 from the fire. 
 
 Next prepare a butter sauce, about one pint (for which see page 23). 
 Add to this one tablespoonful of malt vinegar, a little pepper and salt, 
 a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, and, lastly, three hard-boiled eggs 
 
FILLETS OF SOLES A LA CARDINAL. 377 
 
 cut up into neat pieces, and do not let them boil more than ten 
 minutes. 
 
 The haddocks should be dished on a napkin upon a strainer on the 
 dish upon which it will be sent to table, with a little parsley round the 
 fish, and the egg sauce sent in two boats to table with the fish. 
 
 SOLES. 
 
 Soles plain-fried, with Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Soles a la Cardinal. 
 
 Fillets of Soles & la Periqueux. 
 
 Soles Plain Fried, with Anchovy Sauce. —Take four medium¬ 
 sized soles, skinned on both sides. Then shake them in a little flour. 
 After this crack two fresh eggs and two yolks (and be very careful to 
 examine their quality). Add a little salt to them, and beat them 
 together with a wire whisk. Then with your brush mask each sole well 
 with the eggs on both side. Then place them in some fresh-made bread 
 crumbs, and pat the crumbs with your hand to make them tightly adhere. 
 When all are done place them on a dish till you are ready to fry them. 
 Then having placed sufficient clean hog’s lard in an oval frying-kettle, 
 with wire strainer to fit, when nice and hot, and it is time to fry your 
 soles, place two soles on the wire strainer and submerge them in the 
 hot fat, taking care to place them on the wire with the smooth side 
 down. 
 
 They should be fried of a nice brown colour, and placed on a wire 
 sieve beside the dripping-pan, where they will keep hot. They should 
 be dished on a napkin when sending to table, with a little parsley for 
 garnish. Anchovy sauce should be sent with them, in which should be 
 placed a little live spawn which has been rubbed through a sieve (with 
 a few drops of water, to improve its colour). Add also one spoonful of 
 malt vinegar and a little cayenne pepper. And the anchovy sauce 
 should be made from one pint of butter sauce (for which see page 23, 
 in the number for January), adding one spoonful of essence, with the 
 ■other items mentioned alone, also a very little cayenne pepper. 
 
 Fillets of Soles a la Cardinal. —Order three medium-size soles. 
 
378 
 
 MACKEREL, PLAIN BOILED. 
 
 filleted, with one gill of live spawn, and two whitings filleted, when 
 proceed as follows :— 
 
 Scrape the white meat from the fillets of whitings, which have been well 
 pounded in the mortar, and then rubbed through a wire quenelle sieve, 
 and finish this quenelle the same. Also the fillets and sauce a la 
 cardinal exactly the same as described at page 105, in the number for 
 March. Dish and serve in the same manner. 
 
 Fillets of Soles Farci a la Periqueux. —Prepare the same 
 number of soles as for the above, and farcir them in the same manner, 
 and so serve them ; and prepare a periqueux sauce as follows :—Chop up 
 very fine six truffles, which add to three parts of a pint of finished 
 Espagnol sauce, to which add two spoonfuls of malt vinegar, two wane- 
 glasses of sherry, and one spoonful of anchovy essence. Let these boil 
 down to the original consistence of the Espagnol sauce ; then skim off* 
 any scum which may show, and mark off in a bain-marie. When the 
 fillets are cooked and dished upon a slight border of potatoes, when 
 preparing for table, pour the periqueux sauce over and around them, 
 and send to table. 
 
 MACKEREL. 
 
 Broiled Mackerel a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 
 Mackerel, plain boiled, with Parsley Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Mackerel en Fritot, w r ith Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 Broiled Mackerel a la Maitre d’Hotel.—Take four medium¬ 
 sized mackerel. Cut off the.heads and the tails, and remove the central 
 bone, by cutting them down the back, and shaking over them a 
 little flour. Broil them over a clear fire. When nicely done, they 
 should be closed together, and a piece of maitre d’hotel butter 
 served inside each, and a maitre d’hotel sauce served round them, 
 and sent to table very hot. 
 
 Mackerel plain boiled, with Parsley Sauce.— When the 
 
 gut has been removed, make a small slit of about one inch in the belly 
 part, and let them steep in cold water for an hour, to extract the blood. 
 Then place them on the drainer of an oval fish-kettle, and place the 
 kettle with about four quarts of water with a small handful of salt in it 
 
RED MULLETS A L’lTALIENNE. 
 
 379 
 
 to boil, and when boiling put into it the fish drainer containing the four 
 mackerel, and let them come to the boil again as quickly as possible, 
 and continue to do so for ten minutes, when remove the fish from the 
 fire. 
 
 They should be dished on a napkin, and a little parsley served with 
 them for garnish. A parsley and butter sauce should also be served 
 with them, made as follows :—Boil a half-handful of parsley till tender 
 in salt and water (having previously picked off the stalks); it should be 
 then strained on a hair sieve, and the moisture pressed from it. Then 
 chop it quite fine, and mix it in about three parts of a pint of butter 
 sauce, to which add one spoonful of malt vinegar and a little pepper 
 and salt. When sending the mackerel to table, the sauce should be 
 sent in a boat at same time. 
 
 Fillets of Mackerel en Fritot, with Sauce of Tomatoes.— 
 
 Cut the fillets from four fresh mackerel, which again cut crossways in 
 two (each fillet), and when each half fillet has been trimmed of the same 
 size, arrange them on a dish, and prepare fritter batter, as described on 
 page 30 in the number for January; also a sauce of tomatoes, as de¬ 
 scribed at page 23 in the same number. 
 
 The fillets of mackerel, when cooking them for dinner, should have a 
 little flour shaken over them, and be then dipped in your batter, and 
 fried of a nice brown colour in clean hog’s lard, then piled up neatly in 
 the centre of the dish, and the tomato sauce should have a full table¬ 
 spoonful of essence of anchovy stirred into it and poured round the fish 
 very hot just before sending to table. 
 
 MULLETS. 
 
 Red Mullets, au four, a ITtalienne. 
 
 Red Mullets, au four, a la Periqueux. 
 
 Red Mullets, au four, a lTmperial. 
 
 Red Mullets a ITtalienne.—Place six red mullets of medium 
 size, and as near as possible of the same size, on a saute-pan, which has 
 been slightly buttered. Then add a glass of sherry and a couple of 
 glasses of good stock, and sprinkle them with a little chopped parsley. 
 
380 fritot of whitings with sauce piquant. 
 
 About ten minutes will cook them. While in the oven they should be 
 attended to and basted; and when done, place them on their dish and 
 pour an Italian sauce at each end of the dish, and a little at the side. 
 Let me observe that a little anchovy essence should be added to the 
 same before serving. 
 
 Red Mullets a la Periqueux. — Prepare a sauce a la periqueux, 
 and then dress the red mullet as above, serving periqueux sauce instead 
 of Italienne. 
 
 Red Mullet a l’lniperial. — Dress eight mullets as the preceding, 
 and serve with an imperial sauce instead of periqueux or Italian. 
 
 WHITINGS. 
 
 Plain Fried Whitings with Anchovy Sauce 
 Fritot of Whitings with Sauce Piquant. 
 
 Plain Fried Whitings and Anchovy Sauce.—Order six 
 
 whitings from the fishmonger. They should be dipped in flour, and 
 egged and bread-crumbed the same as for the fried soles, and served 
 with anchovy sauce, the same as prepared for the fried soles, taking care 
 the fat is hot, and not to fry more than three at a time. 
 
 Fritot of Whitings with Sauce Piquant. —Order four medium- 
 size whitings filleted, which trim and fry in butter, the same as for the 
 fillets of mackerel, a page past. When fried and dished, pour round 
 them a piquant sauce with a tablespoonful of anchovy stirred in the 
 same. Serve very hot. 
 
ECONOMICAL DINNERS. 
 
 5 
 
 8l 
 
 ECONOMICAL DINNERS. 
 
 As we promised in the first number of this work, we shall proceed to 
 give, from this month forward, a series of menus for dinners as little 
 expensive as possible , but which will serve as well for party dinners as for 
 dinner en famille. At a time when economy is proclaimed from all 
 sides, we trust that our efforts will be duly appreciated. For I am 
 bound to admit that economy is not only proclaimed on all sides, but it 
 is really being practised in the first establishments, and in fact on all 
 sides the true principles of economy are being carried out, and restric¬ 
 tion and reduction in the number of dishes that used to be served for a 
 party dinner have become the order of the day. 
 
 I think it my duty in writing such a work as I am engaged upon to 
 point out the same ; which are simply as follows :—In a dinner of sixteen 
 or eighteen persons, instead of giving two soups, one soup is made to do, 
 and the same with regard to the fish, one is served instead of two. The 
 same also with the remove dishes of poultry and of butcher’s meat, and 
 where four entrees used to be constantly served, two entrees only are 
 sent to table. The same also with the second course roast, also the 
 second course In fact, in all, the same principles of retrenchment are 
 everywhere observable, expensive dishes being superseded by those 
 which cost less. But for ourselves we trust to avoid the error of extremes,, 
 and we feel assured that good and ample dinners can be served at less 
 cost and with a less number of dishes than it has been for a long time 
 usual to send to table. Of this our future menus must speak for them¬ 
 selves, also the quality of the dishes which will therein appear. 
 
 2 D 
 
MENU OF DINNER 
 
 (FOR SEPTEMBER), 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 (One Soup.) 
 
 Clear Gravy, with Vermicelli. 
 
 (Two Fish.) 
 
 Turbot a l’Anglaise. Sauce a la Hollandaise. 
 Croustades of Oysters en Kari. 
 
 ( Two Entrees.) 
 
 Fritot of Poulet. Sauce aux Champignons. 
 Cremes of Grouse. Sauce Periqueux. 
 
 ( One Remove.) 
 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton a l’Essence. 
 Vegetables in Season. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Partridges, with Sauce Financiere. 
 
 (One Vegetable.) 
 
 Salad of Tomatoes a la Francaise. 
 
 ( Remove.) 
 
 Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 (Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Two Tarts of Apples a la Creme. 
 
 Two Pains of Apricots a la Windsor. 
 
 (Savoury Entremets.) 
 
 Two Plates of Cheese Straws. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 3-S3 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Sixteen pounds of soup meat; one haunch of mutton ; two pounds of 
 sliced veal. The soup meat to be half beef and veal, without bone. The 
 soup meat to be in the kitchen by ten o’clock on the morning of 
 September 1st; and the haunch of mutton on the 3rd by ten o’clock. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 One good size turbot, with four dozen oysters for stewing. The 
 oysters to be in the kitchen on the morning of the 2nd by ten o’clock; 
 and the turbot on the morning of the 3rd by eleven o’clock. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 One large coarse fowl for stock; two best quality fowls of good size 
 for boiling; three fine fresh grouse for cutting; six partridges for 
 roasting. The coarse fowl for stock, the two best quality fowls for 
 cutting, and the grouse for cutting to be in the kitchen by ten o’clock 
 on the morning of the 1st of September; and the partridges on the 
 3rd. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Four carrots; eight onions; two heads of celery; a few shalots ; 
 twenty ripe apricots; eight medium size tomatoes of about the same 
 size and of good colour ; two and a half dozen cooking apples; half a 
 bunch of parsley; four lemons. The above to be in the kitchen on the 
 morning of the 1st of September. The following on the morning of 
 the 3rd—six pounds of cut scarlet runners ; six cauliflowers ; twelve 
 pounds of potatoes ; one salad ; one stick of horseradish. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 Two ounces curry powder ; one small bottle of salad oil; half a pound 
 of rice ; half a pound of vermicelli; one pint tin of preserved mush¬ 
 rooms ; one pound of fresh butter ; two pounds of salt butter ; one 
 
3?4 
 
 THE VERMICELLI SOUP. 
 
 quart of very best cream; four pounds of flour; half a pound of 
 Parmesan cheese; sixteen sponge cakes ; half a pound of ratifias; half 
 a pound of preserved cherries; two quarts of milk ; eighteen eggs ; one 
 pint bottle of truffles; two pounds of ham ; half a pound of orange and 
 lemon peel. 
 
 Prepare the white and brown stocks the same as for the dinner in the 
 first number of this work, but use ten pounds of the mixed soup meat 
 for the brown stock and six for the white sto'ck, as the dinner in this 
 number is considerably less in the number of dishes, and as there is also 
 only one soup. But be careful to keep back three quarts of best gravy 
 for the vermicelli soup; and one pint of the best gravy also for your 
 roast haunch of mutton. Then mix the remaining stock with white and 
 brown sauce or veloute and Espagnol. But run down to glaze one-half 
 your second stock. And as there are no jellies there will be no calfs- 
 foot stock. But keep back for use about one half your second stock as 
 a reserve, .or for any use for which you may need it. Let me observe 
 that the economical menus which will now appear should receive your 
 strictest attention. 
 
 We will act upon the supposition that the foundation sauces are 
 already prepared, and so we will commence as hitherto by following 
 the menu in as regular order as possible, and will begin by placing the 
 veloute sauce, also the Espagnol sauce, in two separate stewpans to 
 boil and then prepare 
 
 The Vermicelli Soup.—Place a three-pint stewpan half full of 
 hot water to boil. Then wash the vermicelli (half a pound) in a couple 
 of waters, looking over the same, and picking out any that is soiled, or 
 any black specks that may be among the same. When the water boils,, 
 place in it a tablespoonful of salt, and then the vermicelli, and boil 
 it gently till it is tender. Then strain it off; place it in a kitchen-pan, 
 cover it with cold water, and place it in the larder. Then bring the 
 clear gravy to the boil, and before placing it on the fire, remove any 
 signs of fat specks that may show upon the surface. Then measure- 
 three quarts, and when it boils skim it well, and place it beside the 
 prepared vermicelli with the lid a little aside to let off the steam. And 
 
 now 
 
CURRY SAUCE FOR CROUSTADES OF OYSTERS. 
 
 3§5 
 
 THE LIST OF SAUCES FOR THE DINNER. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce for the Turbot, one pint and a half. 
 
 Curry Sauce for the Croustades of Oysters, half a pint. 
 
 Sauce for Fritot of Poulet aux Champignons, half a pint. 
 
 The Champignons for ditto, half a pint. 
 
 Cremes of Grouse a la Periqueux, half a pint. 
 
 Gravy for Haunch of Mutton, one pint, with one pot of red 
 currant jelly. 
 
 Financiere Sauce for the Roast Partridges, half a pint. 
 
 Salad dressing for Salad of Tomatoes, half a pint. 
 
 Wine Sauce for Cabinet Pudding, three-quarters of a pint. 
 
 Whipped Cream for Apple Tarts, one pint. 
 
 Custard for Pains of Apricots, half a pint. 
 
 Butter Sauce for Cauliflowers, three-quarters of a pint. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce. —Scrape half a stick of horseradish, and pour 
 over it a half-gill of elder-flower vinegar, and when this has been soaking 
 in the vinegar ten minutes, reduce one pint of veloute sauce to half its 
 quantity. Then add the vinegar, pressed through a pointed tin strainer 
 to extract as much flavour of the horseradish as possible. Next add four 
 yolks of eggs to half a pint of cream. Beat these well together and mix 
 them with the reduced veloute sauce, and when you see the sauce 
 begins to thicken (but do not let it boil) strain it through a pointed 
 tin sieve into a sauce bain-marie. Then mix with it one pat of 
 fresh butter and a little cayenne pepper and salt, and place aside for the 
 present. 
 
 Curry Sauce for Croustades of Oysters. —Place the four dozen 
 stewing oysters in a stewpan with their own liquor, and let them stew 
 for five minutes ; then strain off the liquor in a pint stewpan, to which 
 add half a pint of reduced veloute sauce with a teaspoonful of 
 curry pow'der and the same of Cook’s curry paste, and a tablespoonful 
 
 of Indian chutney sauce. Stir these well together, and let boil to the 
 
 2 E 
 
3S6 CURRY SAUCE FOR CROUSTADES OF OYSTERS. 
 
 consistence of double cream, then draw it aside. Then wash the 
 stewed oysters in a little cold water, and be careful that no part of the 
 broken shells are left upon them. Next dry them on a cloth, and cut 
 oft' the dark part of the beard, after which cut each oyster into four 
 pieces ; place them in a clean stewpan, strain the curry sauce upon 
 them, and let come to the boil. Then mark off in the larder with the 
 others, beside the Hollandaise sauce for the turbot. Then take half a 
 pound of Carolina rice and pick out, if any, the soiled grains, also any 
 black specks which may show among the rice. Then thoroughly wash 
 it, and boil it till tender in two quarts of water, with a small table¬ 
 spoonful of salt in the same. 
 
 You must be particular in boiling off the rice, that directly it is tender 
 it is strained off on a hair sieve, and when cold, place it in a stewpan, 
 cover it with cold water, and place it beside the Oyster en Karie, along 
 with which it is to be served; but of this we will speak further on. 
 Now we will proceed to make the croustades for the oysters. Make 
 one pound of short paste as follows One pound of flour, six ounces of 
 butter, two yolks of eggs, and about three parts of half a pint of water. 
 Rub the butter into the flour, then make a hole in the centre. In this 
 place the two yolks ; then add about one gill of water and mix together 
 into a rather firm paste, then if you find it too firm, add a little more 
 water by moistening it with your paste-brush, dipped in water, so as to 
 obtain the paste of the firmness you desire. Then well mould it together 
 and let it lie under a damp cloth for a time to become quite mellow, 
 which will take about ten minutes. Then roll it out about as thick as a 
 florin, and cut out with a round tin cutter twenty circular pieces, that 
 will serve to line twenty ordinary size tartlet tins. Which look to and 
 see they are very clean, and spread them out on a baking-sheet; when 
 you have cut out one, fill one of the tartlet tins with the same, turning 
 it upside down, and place evenly in the tin. Then with your forefinger 
 and thumb squeeze up the paste about the eighth of an inch above the 
 rim, so as to form an even band all round. Having done one you 
 will be able to judge if it will prove sufficiently thick to serve your 
 purpose, and if so finish the remaining nineteen in the same manner, 
 and as near as possible all of the same size. 
 
SAUCE A LA PERIQUEUX. 
 
 3S7 
 
 Then place a dummy in each, and bake the crustades of a nice light- 
 brown colour. When they are done, remove the dummies and your 
 crustade cases are ready thus far; and when sending to table they 
 should be made hot in the screen, and filled at the last moment with 
 the Oysters en Karie ; and your already prepared rice should be strained 
 on a sieve, and kept in the screen for a time till it has become quite 
 dry; and the crustades should each be topped up with rice dished on a 
 napkin on an oval dish, and sent to table. Let me add that prawns 
 and lobsters and fillets of soles can also be served in this manner as a 
 dressed fish, and the above can also be served with other suitable sauces, 
 and topped up with fried bread-crumbs and served au gratin. 
 
 The Turbot.—The turbot usually does not arrive till the day of 
 the dinner ; to aid our arrangements in description, we will suppose that 
 we have now reached the day previous to the dinner, and will leave the 
 cooking of the turbot, or the instructions how to do so, till the fitting 
 time arrives, and proceed with our descriptions of the preparation of the 
 sauces forthwith. 
 
 Sauce for Fritot of Poulet aux Champignons.—Reduce 
 about one pint of brown sauce with the essence from the pint can of 
 mushrooms. Add two tablespoonfuls of glaze to the same, and let it 
 reduce to the consistence of Espagnol, and when it has been well 
 skimmed place the mushrooms in it, and let them boil in the same 
 for a few minutes, adding a little pepper and salt. Then mark off in a 
 bain-marie and place aside. 
 
 Next place the two best quality fowls, trussed for boiling, in a stew- 
 pan of a suitable size, with a pint of water, and let them slowly boil for 
 three-quarters of an hour, after which place them on a dish in the larder 
 to become cold. 
 
 Sauce a la Periqueux for Cremes of Grouse.—Cut the fillets 
 
 from three grouse, which place between two plates for the present. 
 
 Then chop up the bones and remnants, and put in a stewpan with 
 
 half a pint of second stock, and the same of Espagnol sauce. Let this 
 
 simmer very slowly for an hour to extract the flavour. Then strain it 
 
 off and reduce it to its proper consistence, adding one wineglass of 
 
 sherry, and chop up very fine six truffles, which place in the sauce, and 
 
 2 E 2 
 
333 
 
 CUSTARD FOR PAINS OF APRICOTS. 
 
 when they have well boiled in the same, mark off in a bain-marie, taking 
 care that you have sufficient sauce, which should be one half-pint. 
 
 Best Gravy for Haunch of Mutton. —For this, mark in a bain- 
 marie one pint of best gravy. 
 
 Financiere Sauce for'Roast Partridges. —Place one glass of 
 sherry to half a pint of Espagnol sauce; bring to the boil, and mark in a 
 bain-marie. 
 
 Sauce for Salad of Tomatoes. —To one gill of salad oil add 
 the same of malt vinegar, and a little white pepper, sugar, and salt. 
 When about to vse it they should be well beaten together and poured 
 over your sliced tomatoes— which should be built in a pile, and the 
 remaining sauce poured round the tomatoes. 
 
 Wine Sauce for Cabinet Pudding. —Place half a pint of water 
 on the hot-plate, with two ounces of sugar and the rind of a lemon, 
 peeled very thin. Then mix two tablespoonfuls of arrowroot with half a 
 gill of cold water. When the half-pint which you put on the hot-plate 
 to boil does so, stir in the mixed arrowroot, keeping it stirred with a 
 wooden spoon till it does so. Then add one gill of sherry, and about 
 half a teaspoonful of prepared cochineal, when mark it off in a bain- 
 marie, leaving the rind of lemon in the sauce till you are about to use 
 the sauce, when it should be put aside. 
 
 Whipped Cream for Apple Tarts. —Whip a pint of nice fresh 
 cream, on the afternoon preceding the dinner, about as firm as 
 meranque, and slightly sweeten the same. When making the tarts, with 
 your small knife partly cut through the paste on the top, so as to form a 
 ring about three inches wide, which must be cut out when you are about 
 to fill in the cream and to send them to table, when the cream should 
 be divided between the two tarts, and the round of paste put on the top. 
 
 Custard for Pains of Apricots. —Place half a pint of milk in a 
 quart stewpan on the hot-plate to boil, with the half of the peel cut very 
 thin from a fragrant lemon. While it is doing so, crack two whole eggs 
 with the yolk of one into a kitchen pan, with an ounce of powdered 
 sugar and a couple of tablespoonfuls of very fresh cream. Beat these 
 well together, and when the milk boils add about half a gill at a time to 
 the eggs and sugar, but with a wire whisk in your right hand keep beat- 
 
BUTTER SAUCE FOR THE CAULIFLOWER. 389 
 
 ing or stirring the eggs and sugar, when you add the hot milk till all 
 the milk is mixed with the eggs and sugar. 
 
 Then place it on the hot-plate in a two-quart stewpan, and keep 
 stirring the same till you perceive it has begun to thicken, when 
 instantly remove it from the hot-plate and pour it into a china kitchen- 
 pan, and keep stirring for a couple of minutes, to prevent it curdling. 
 Let me here remark that if you do not let the custard boil it will not 
 curdle; but instantly it has thickened it should be poured into a china 
 basin and stirred till the hot steam is driven out. 
 
 Note. —When your pains of apricots have been turned out, divide 
 this custard sauce between the two moulds, pouring it round the base 
 of each, and mixing half a wineglass of brandy with the custard before 
 serving it. 
 
 Butter Sauce for the Cauliflower.— Place half a pint of water 
 to boil in a pint stewpan on the hot-plate. While doing so, mix one 
 tablespoonful of flour with half a gill of water. It should be mixed 
 very smooth, and strained through a pointed tin strainer, into a small 
 kitchen basin. When the half pint of water boils, pour in the mixed 
 flour, stirring with a small wire whisk; and when it has boiled and 
 thickened, draw it aside on a cooler part of the hot-plate, and let it 
 boil for a minute. Then stir in two ounces of butter, and when well 
 mixed in, mark in a bain-marie. 
 
 Sauces (to be arranged in bain-marie case, with name on each ).— 
 Now that your sauces have been duly prepared, they should be placed 
 systematically in the bain-marie case, and the names of each written on 
 strips of paper three inches long and one inch wide. The writing 
 should be in the centre of each strip of paper, simply giving the name 
 of each ; when over and below the name a slit should be cut about 
 three-quarters of an inch in length, and each slip should be placed on 
 the handle of each bain-marie. 
 
 Now, by giving a moment to the engravings on page 47, you wiil 
 not only see the bain-marie case, but also the bain-marie pans (as 
 they are called) arranged in the same, and can readily perceive my 
 intention. I am well aware that I have spoken of this matter before, 
 but well knowing the importance and use of what I am speaking about, 
 
390 
 
 THE FR1T0T OF POULET. 
 
 I have thought it well to mention the matter again. For, let me further 
 
 say, if the name is on the handle of each sauce, it is really difficult to 
 
 make a mistake, and to send the sauce prepared for one dish with 
 another is a really serious fault for any cook to make. 
 
 The Fritot of Poulet.—We will suppose that the two boiled 
 
 fowls are now quite cold, so place them on your cutting board ; then 
 
 proceed as follows :—Lay one fowl on its side, and holding the cuisse 
 
 or quarter in your left hand, let your knife cut round the same. 
 
 Then by very little force you can lift up the cuisse and readily cut 
 
 through the joint at the back and remove the same. Follow suit with 
 
 » 
 
 the others. Then cut off the right and left side of the breast, with 
 the pinion bone, or part of it, left on; then divide the centre of the 
 breast from the back by cutting through the sides. After this, cut the 
 centre of the breast in two, crosswise, placing the backbone and the 
 pinions aside. Do the same by the other fowl. 
 
 Then divide the thighs from the drumsticks, and trim the whole of 
 the pieces into good form, and mark them off in a stewpan. After 
 which, chop up the backbone and the pinions, which place in a small 
 stewpan and nearly cover the same with second stock, which let gently 
 simmer for about an hour, to extract the essence, which afterwards 
 reduce to glaze and add to the mushroom sauce. 
 
 Now prepare one pound of flour into fritter batter, in which to dip 
 your pieces of fowl when frying off the same for dinner (for which see 
 page 30 in the January menu). When you fry off the fritot, have 
 some clean hog’s lard sufficiently hot to fry a piece of bread a brown 
 colour, and then spread the pieces of fowl on a dish and dust them 
 over with flour. Be particular that your batter is not too thick (if it 
 will nicely mask the point of your finger lightly it will do). Then place 
 the drumsticks aside , which will leave you twelve nice pieces of fowl, 
 and ten minutes before the dinner hour fry off six pieces of fowl at a 
 time, dipping each piece lightly into the batter. If you fry three pieces 
 at first you will be able to judge of the heat of your lard, and the con¬ 
 dition of your batter. Let me add that the lard should be nice and 
 hot for this purpose. As you fry off the pieces of fowl arrange them 
 on one of your wire sieves, and keep them before the range fire till you 
 
THE HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 
 
 391 
 
 dish them, which should be in a pile, with the mushrooms on each side 
 of the dish in a pile, and pour the sauce boiling hot round the same, and 
 send away. 
 
 Cremes of Grouse a la Periqueux. —Have washed very clean, 
 and then dried, twelve plain dariole moulds, which should be nicely 
 buttered with some clarified butter which has been lightly creamed by 
 ■working it with your butter brush. When all have been buttered, chop 
 three truffles rather small, and sprinkle a little of the same at the bottom 
 of each mould. Then cut the fillets from three fresh grouse, and any 
 of the flesh you can obtain from the quarters. Both of these should be 
 well pounded, and passed through a hair sieve, and the flesh from the 
 same placed in a kitchen-pan. This should be subsequently prepared 
 in all particulars exactly the same as for cremes of fowl (for which 
 see page 131). When you have filled the buttered dariole moulds 
 with the cremes of grouse, if you have any left, fill a large-sized dariole 
 mould with the same, which place in the centre of the others when 
 sending to table. 
 
 When the filled darioles are marked off in a stewpan ready for 
 cooking, be cautious not to put them to cook too soon, as fifteen 
 minutes will be ample time. Take care also to reduce the essence 
 from the bones to a glaze, and add the same, wdien perfectly free from 
 grease, to the periqueux sauce, which should be poured round the darioles 
 boiling hot, when sending to table; bearing in mind, also, that you 
 have only two entrees, take care to serve on each dish all you have 
 prepared, even though they may look a little crowded; for the 
 calculation as to quantity is that the entrees should be what we term 
 full entrees. 
 
 The Haunch of Mutton. —This should be a prime joint, and 
 should be served as the piece de resistance to the entire dinner, which, as 
 you have doubtless already seen, is a study of economy throughout. 
 Trim the haunch by cutting off any patches of brown skin, and saw 
 off the shank bone and a portion of the flap left upon the same. It 
 should be put down to roast (if a fine haunch) quite three hours before 
 the time appointed for the dinner. There should be a good fire, but 
 not a very large one, when the haunch of mutton is put down to roast, 
 
392 
 
 THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 and if roasted in what is termed a cradle, or long spit, you 
 will require length of fire, but if by supporting or hanging, you will 
 require depth of fire. It should not be placed too close to the fire, and 
 should, in fact, slowly roast and be frequently basted; and when taken 
 from the fire to be sent to table should be more of a deep gold tint 
 than of a brown colour, and no flour, or what is termed frothing up, 
 should take place. 
 
 Pour round it, just before it leaves the kitchen, a pint of best 
 gravy, and red currant jelly in two sauceboats, and a plain salad of the 
 white hearts of lettuce, and a few slices of beetroot placed round the 
 lettuce. Then cut up (about six cos lettuce would not be too many), 
 and use as little of the green leaves as possible. When arranged in the 
 salad bowl, pour over the same about one gill of best gravy in a liquid 
 state, and as the last thing, your salad sauce a la Franeaise (the same as 
 for the tomatoes), which should be well mixed together before pouring 
 over the salad. 
 
 The Vegetables-—which are cut scarlet runners, cauliflowers, 
 and potatoes, should go to table with the haunch of mutton. The 
 scarlet beans should be boiled rapidly in plenty of water, as well as about 
 three tablespoonfuls of salt to one gallon of water ; add also three pieces 
 of soda, about the size of three large peas. The greatest care should 
 be taken to boil the beans till they are tender , but not to overcook 
 them. When dressed or cooked, strain on to a hair sieve, then place 
 in a well-tinned stewpan and keep them hot till needed, adding a couple 
 of pats of butter, which should be mixed with them before dishing. 
 
 The Cauliflowers.—These should also be boiled in plenty of 
 7 cater, with four good tablespoonfuls of salt to a gallon of water, but 
 no soda, and do not put the cauliflowers in the water until it boils. 
 During this process the cauliflowers should be carefully attended to, and 
 tried occasionally, to see if they are sufficiently cooked, which you can 
 tell by lifting one, upon a slice, from the water, and with your finger 
 and thumb press one of the sprays containing the flower, and the flower 
 also, and if tender, each cauliflower should be very carefully removed from 
 the water, placed upon a hair sieve, covered with a wet cloth, and 
 placed in the screen to keep till it is time to dish them up, when a portion 
 
PLAIN BOILED POTATOES. 
 
 393 
 
 of the green part (if still deemed superfluous) should be removed ; 
 but each cauliflower, as a matter of course, should be well trimmed 
 before boiling. About three on a dish should be sufficient, and they 
 should be masked (slightly masked) with a little butter sauce, which 
 should be very smooth, and passed through a pointed tin strainer a few 
 minutes before serving, when a spoonful of vinegar, a little white 
 pepper, and also a little sugar, should be added, and well mixed into the 
 butter sauce before serving. 
 
 Let me add that there is no better vegetable than a fresh-gathered, 
 well-dressed cauliflower; at the same time, I can truly say that there is 
 nothing more disagreeable or repulsive than a badly-dressed cauliflower. 
 Now, instead of using, as is almost invariably the case, badly made 
 butter sauce with cauliflowers, try a well-made tomato sauce, or a good 
 Espagnol, or some good bechemelle sauce, with a nicely boiled cauli¬ 
 flower ;—and what a change would take place in the opinion of all who 
 should then partake of this excellent vegetable. 
 
 Plain Boiled Potatoes. —These, when a dinner party is to be 
 given, ought to be selected by the cook, or special orders given that 
 they should be of the best quality, also as uniform in size as possible. 
 Furthermore, it is my opinion, after great experience, that a potato, if 
 you really want it well cooked, should be peeled, and steamed 
 with some (say one good tablespoonful of) salt placed in the water, 
 from which the steam is produced, and twenty minutes should and 
 would prove the time, and ample time too, to cook sufficient potatoes 
 of moderate size for a dinner of sixteen or eighteen persons. 
 
 Therefore, if potatoes are placed in the steamer (beneath which the 
 water is boiling), when the dinner is called for, they will be dressed in 
 good time to serve in perfection when your removes go to the table. 
 If some are required to be served with the fish (which is the case 
 with some families), sufficient should be placed on the fire to steam 
 twenty minutes before the time appointed for the dinner. Fresh ones 
 should be placed on the fire to steam for serving with the removes or 
 the remove. But let me add that even in steaming potatoes, one great 
 matter in all culinary operations is requisite, namely, attention. So, the 
 very moment you find that the potatoes are szifficiently cooked by the 
 
394 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE REMOVE. 
 
 steaming process , remove the steamer from the saucepan, and place a 
 moist napkin over the top of the steamer containing the same, and keep 
 them ready for dishing at a moment’s notice. 
 
 We will here take the opportunity of remarking that it is our intention, 
 before this work closes, to devote a few chapters to the dressing of 
 vegetables, and to show how much one vegetable can be made to assist 
 the perfection of another; and in a manner which we trust will prove 
 acceptable to all, and as original as they will be found to be economical. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE ROAST 
 Will consist, as marked on the menu, of six roast partridges, which 
 should be put down to roast about ten minutes before the dinner hour. 
 When cooked, they should have the financiere sauce poured round 
 them boiling hot, and sent to table. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE VEGETABLE. 
 
 Salad of Tomatoes. —These should have the green part of the 
 stem removed from the eight ripe tomatoes ordered, and they should 
 be then cut in slices of the same thickness—each tomato in three 
 slices; as you cut them up, place them on a china dish. When finished, 
 sprinkle them with some white pepper and salt in equal proportions, 
 and build them up with a well in the centre. Just before sending them 
 away, pour over and round them the sauce which has previously been 
 described, namely, the salad dressing a la Frangaise. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE REMOVE. 
 
 Cabinet Pudding. —Butter a three-pint plain oval mould, taking 
 care that it is very clean, and that it is well buttered. Then cut out a 
 piece of paper that will nicely fit the bottom of the inside, which when 
 placed inside the surface should be buttered also. Then cut one of the 
 caps of orange-peel in very thin half-circular pieces, and with these 
 form a border round the bottom of the mould, the circular part of each 
 piece touching the upright part of the mould, and the ends should be 
 made to meet. Then place the half of a preserved cherry in the 
 
CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 395 
 
 centre of each half circle. Next cut out some pieces from the lemon- 
 peel of a diamond shape, but rather oblong, and with these form a 
 star in the centre, after which place the half of a cherry at the point 
 of each piece of lemon-peel in the shape of a diamond. After this 
 cut up in very thin slices a cap of preserved orange-peel, and a cap 
 of lemon peel. Then cut each sponge cake in two lengthwise, and 
 each half into four pieces, and spread a part of them over the bottom 
 of the mould on which sprinkle a few ratifias, also a few cherries, and a 
 little of the cut up lemon and orange-peel, which press lightly down in 
 the mould. Then proceed again and form another layer in the same 
 manner, and in like manner until the mould is full, and all the cherries, 
 and cut peel and greater part of the ratifias and sponge cake have been 
 used. After which take eight fresh eggs, which place in a two-quart 
 kitchen-pan, breaking one at a time into a small kitchen-pan, and smell 
 the same carefully, for fear of a musty one being among them. After 
 you have smelt each one place it in the two-quart pan, and so proceed 
 with the others, and when you feel that they are all good, add three 
 tablespoonfuls of powdered lump sugar, and then one quart of very fresh 
 milk, and beat these well together for a couple of minutes. Then strain 
 through a pointed tin strainer into another pan, to which add about the 
 half of one grated nutmeg and the thin grating of a nice fragrant lemon. 
 
 Then following—select a stewpan which will rise an inch or two 
 above your pudding mould when placed in it, and let it be one with a 
 tight-fitting cover. Next, one hour before your dinner, pour your raw cus¬ 
 tard very gently into the mould that you have filled in for the pudding; 
 after which butter a piece of kitchen paper and screw it over the pud¬ 
 ding, twisting it round the edge. Then fold a sheet of paper fourfold, 
 and place at the bottom of the selected stewpan which will hold the pud¬ 
 ding mould, and on this place your pudding mould. Next your roimd the 
 same about one quart of hot water, fix on the lid tightly, and put it on 
 the hot-plate to gently boil for one hour. And you must not fail to 
 attend to it and see that it boils, and you must also take care and see 
 that the water round the mould does not boil away, or when necessary 
 to add a little more if needed. At the end of one hour place your 
 fingers on the centre of the paper that is folded round the top, and if it 
 
396 THE ENTREMETS, OR SWEET DISHES. 
 
 feels firm to a tolerably strong pressure, you may be sure it will be suffi¬ 
 ciently cooked, when place it aside for the present. When needed , lift 
 it from the stewpan, and if it shows too round in the centre, cut off a 
 slice, so that it will stand even when turned out upon its dish. When 
 you have done so, gently remove the piece of paper from the top, and 
 if your prepared sauce is hot, pour it over the pudding, and send it to 
 table. 
 
 Note. —In thus describing the whole process and particulars at once, 
 I am perfectly aware that some little matters must by left to those who, 
 so to speak, have the sending away of the dishes that it is mine to describe. 
 But I feel happy to say that I am certain my method and purport will be 
 understood. 
 
 THE ENTREMETS, OR SWEET DISHES. 
 
 Two Apple Tarts a la Creme. 
 
 Two Pains of Apricots a la Royal. 
 
 Apple Tarts a la Creme.—Prepare one pound of superfine 
 flour and one pound of the best salt butter, which has soaked all 
 night in cold water to bring out the salt, or you can use the best fresh 
 butter, which for sweet dishes is preferable. Mix and prepare the 
 paste as described for vol-au-vent (at page 149), and it will want 
 the same number of rolls. After this, mix half a pound of short 
 paste as described for the Croustades of Oysters en Kari, in the 
 opening chapter of this number. Then peel your apples and 
 quarter and core them, and fill two medium-sized tart dishes with 
 the same, after which grate two fragrant lemons, which mix with some 
 powdered lump sugar, about one pound, and with this sw r eeten the 
 tarts, adding four cloves to each tart, then pour in a small teacup of 
 water into each dish. Let each dish be well filled -with apples, 
 which press down, after which proceed to cover each dish with paste 
 in the following manner:—Prepare two yolks of eggs by mixing them 
 with a tablespoonful of water with your paste brush, and with this egg 
 round the rim of each tart dish slightly. Then cut the short paste in 
 two and roll each piece in lengths sufficient to reach all round each 
 
APPLE TARTS A LA CREME. 
 
 397 
 
 dish, which, when placed on the rim of each should be pressed down 
 firmly to cause it to thoroughly adhere to the same. After 
 which, proceed to roll out your prepared puff paste to the thickness of 
 a quarter of an inch; then, previously to cutting out the same to 
 cover the tarts, examine it carefully, and any part that shows a flaw 
 in it through bad rolling or folding, should be cut away. Or the paste 
 should be fully rolled out again and very carefully and evenly folded. 
 
 When you have the paste proper, roll it out as before stated, to a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness, when the short paste round the rim should 
 be egged over with the yolks. Then, taking care each piece of puff 
 paste is large enough, with the same cover the tart, pressing down 
 firmly the outside of the puff paste on the egged border of short paste, 
 and with your right-hand thumb press down the paste round the apples. 
 Then carefully and evenly crimp round the paste which is on the border 
 of the dish with your knife, which hold in a slanting direction while 
 crimping the paste. When this is done, with a sharp knife cut off the 
 surplus paste that will overlap the border, which should then be neatly 
 notched round. AYhen both tarts have been finished in this manner, 
 make a small hole on the right and left-hand side, of about half an inch 
 long, to let out the steam. 
 
 Next, with a very clean paste brush and about half a pint of water 
 and some powdered sugar, proceed as follows :—With your small knife 
 cut half through the paste, forming a round ring exactly in the centre 
 of the top of each tart, two and a half inches wide. After this, dip 
 your brush in the clean water, and nicely moisten the centre of the tarts, 
 then cover over this moistened part with some finely powdered and sifted 
 lump sugar, which should be put on not too thickly. Then dip your 
 brush in the water again and sprinkle lightly the sugar, using only 
 sufficient water to moisten the sugar through. Then bake them in a 
 nice, steady oven, or in other words, an oven not rash in heat. 
 
 Here let me state that the oven should have been previously attended 
 to, and duly brought to the degree of heat necessary for baking an 
 apple tart. If such should have been previously done, there will be no 
 fear of their becoming burnt, but if you see the least sign that the 
 oven is too hot, leave the oven door open for a time, and slacken the 
 
39 S SAVOURY ENTREMETS OF CHEESE. 
 
 fire, and in kitchen parlance let her lie down for a time (the oven), and 
 delay placing the tarts therein till the oven is all right ; and further, 
 a sheet of paper folded twice will, if placed over the tarts, prevent 
 them taking too much colour. But let me further say, that attention 
 is all that is needed, and if this is given there is no fear but your apple 
 tarts or any other article will be nicely baked. 
 
 Pains of Apricots a la Royal.—Place three and a half ounces 
 of pied de veau gelatine to soak in a quart of cold water, then cut up 
 twenty ripe apricots and remove the stones, place them in a three-quart 
 stewpan with a pint of cold water, to which add eight ounces of 
 powdered sugar, and let it boil till the apricots have become quite a 
 pulp. Then rub them through a hair sieve on to a china dish. When 
 you have done so, measure the same, and see if you have sufficient to 
 fill two quart jelly moulds, and if so, place in the stewpan, and make it 
 hot again. Then stir in the soaked gelatine, and when the same has 
 well dissolved, add two wineglasses of brandy and the juice of two 
 lemons; when taste it, and see if it is sufficiently sweet; if not, add 
 sufficient sugar to make it so. 
 
 The stewpan containing the same should then be placed in a china 
 pan with some ice and water round it. Keep it stirred till it begins to 
 set , when it should be poured into two handsome quart jelly moulds, 
 with pipes in them, and then placed with a little ice round them in the 
 larder till they are needed for table. Then dip them in half a pail of 
 warm water, and turn them out the same as jellies, and pour round 
 them the custard sauce which you have already prepared, and send 
 them to table. 
 
 SAVOURY ENTREMETS OF CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese Straws.—Roll out the trimmings of puff paste which you 
 have left from your apple tarts. Then grate two ounces of Parmesan 
 cheese, and sprinkle over the paste with a little cayenne pepper, when 
 collect the ends and fold it square-like, and again roll it out very thin 
 and fold it square. Which do a second time. Then roll it out again, 
 and cut it into strips of about four inches long and an eighth of an 
 inch wide. Arrange on a baking sheet sprinkled with a little water. 
 
SAVOURY ENTREMETS OF CIIEESE. 
 
 399 
 
 You will require about forty or fifty pieces, which will be sufficient for 
 two plates, upon which they should be dished after they have been 
 baked with a dessert paper under them, and these will prove the last of 
 the dinner. We have not given any ices, but if such are required, you 
 must prepare after the manner of those served in May and June and 
 July. 
 
 As we have done our best to clearly describe the various dishes on 
 the menu, we think there is nothing further to say, and shall leave it to 
 those who have read our descriptions to send the dinner from the kitchen 
 as well as to prepare the same, and shall at once proceed to other matters 
 of instruction and description with regard to dressed vegetables. 
 
400 
 
 DRESSED VEGETABLES. 
 
 DRESSED VEGETABLES. 
 
 Potato Croquettes with Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 Potato Chips, Sauce Piquant. 
 
 Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 
 Saute of Potatoes a la Francaise. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes a la Cream. 
 
 Potatoes au Gratin a la Anglaise. 
 
 Dressed Spinach with Espagnol Sauce. 
 Dressed Spinach with Bechemel Sauce. 
 
 Stewed Celery a 1 ’Espagnol. 
 
 Celery au Gratin, Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 Sea Kale fried, Sauce Poivrade. 
 
 Stewed Sea Kale with Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 
 Tomates Farci a la Moderne. 
 
 Tomatoes au four h la Bohemienne. 
 
 Champignons a la Bordelaise. 
 
 Mushrooms Farcei au Gratin. 
 
 Cauliflowers au Gratin, Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 Fritot of Cauliflowers a la Pascaline. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 Brussels Sprouts a l’Espagnol. 
 
 Stewed Peas a l’Anglaise. 
 
 Stewed Peas a l’Americaine. 
 
 Scarlet Runners with Sauce of Tomatoes. 
 French Beans a la Bechemelle. 
 
 Green Artichokes, Sauce Piquant. 
 Jerusalem Artichokes a la Maitre d’Hotel. 
 
POTATO CHIPS WITH SAUCE PIQUANT. 
 
 401 
 
 Potato Croquettes with Sauce of Tomatoes. —Bake twelve 
 potatoes and finish them the same as for potato paste for dishing upon 
 (for which see page 63). Then make them into balls about one inch 
 in diameter, and make them all of the same size. When finished, 
 crack one whole egg and two yolks, to which add a little salt, and beat 
 them up together, and have prepared by you a plate of finely made 
 bread crumbs. With your egg-brush mask over one at a time the 
 potato croquettes, and then place them on the crumbs of bread, 
 and let an assistant roll them well in the same, and well pat the 
 crumbs upon them, and place them on a dish as they are done 
 When thus far finished, they should be placed in the larder till you need 
 them. 
 
 Then prepare a sauce of tomatoes (for which see page 23). When 
 needed, the croquettes should be fried in clean hog’s lard till a nice 
 brown colour, and built in a nice pile on the dish, and the tomato sauce 
 poured boiling hot round them, and sent to table. Now, as a matter of 
 course, you must regulate the number of croquettes in accordance with 
 the number of persons they are for ; but if for dinner, about sixteen or 
 eighteen should be sufficient, and if for a lunch, eight or ten might prove 
 ample. And let me add a little good and suitable sauce served with 
 vegetables will be found to add to their excellence and perfection. 
 
 Potato Chips with Sauce Piquant. —Peel about eight potatoes 
 equal in size. Then cut them in slices about half an inch thick, and 
 peel off the rough part from each slice. Next, with your small knife, 
 which should be sharp, peel the slice of potato into a long curly piece 
 or two pieces. Then proceed with another slice, which serve the same, 
 which repeat till each slice of potato has been served in the same 
 manner; and as you do them put them in a pan of clean cold water, 
 sufficient to cover them. They should be left in cold water till you are 
 ready to fry them ; when they should be drained on a sieve, and after¬ 
 wards dried on a cloth, and then place half of them in a wire frying 
 basket (kept for such use in most kitchens). Then when the time has 
 come see that your lard for frying is nice and hot, which you should test 
 by placing a piece of bread in it, which, if it fries of a bright brown colour, 
 
 you may rely it will fry the potato chips in a proper manner. This 
 
 2 F 
 
402 
 
 sautL of potatoes a la francaise. 
 
 being ascertained, place the basket in the centre of the hot lard, and let 
 the chips fry. After they have been in the fat a couple of minutes lift 
 up the basket and toss the chips in the same, so as to loosen them a 
 little, and thereby enable them to fry of the same colour. 
 
 You must be particular to fry them crisp. The sign a?id test point is 
 when you lift out the frying basket the chips should look of a nice brown 
 colour and feel crisp, and when this point is obtained you may be sure 
 the chips will do. Then remove the frying basket from the hot lard, 
 and turn the chips on to a wire sieve, which keep on one side the 
 dripping pan. Then proceed to fry off the remainder, and, when 
 needed, dish in a pile, and sprinkle a little fine salt over them before 
 
 dishing. Then pour a little piquant sauce round them, and send to 
 
 table. Let me observe also that potato chips can be served and 
 sent to table with any kind of second course roast of game or 
 poultry. When other vegetables are scarce, they are very handy. 
 
 They can also be cut in thin slices, and fried and served in the same 
 
 manner. 
 
 Saute of Potatoes a la Francaise. —Peel eight medium-sized 
 potatoes of the same size, and be particular to peel them evenly, and 
 place them in cold water as you do them. They should be then divided 
 in quarters about the size of quarters of an orange when divided. They 
 will look better if the sharp edges are trimmed off; and it is best to 
 keep them in cold water till you are about to saute them, when they 
 should be strained on a hair sieve and well dried on a cloth afterwards. 
 Then place about a gill of prepared clarified butter in a frying-pan, 
 and place your quarters of potatoes in the same, which place on the hot¬ 
 plate, and let them gently saute, tossing them over and over now and 
 then as they begin to show brown, so as they may all be, when cooked, 
 of the same colour. 
 
 To tell when they are cooked sufficiently, place a quarter in the 
 corner of a kitchen rubber and press it, when you can readily tell when 
 it is done by its smashing in the same by the pressure. Led me add 
 also, that to look nicely when cooked they must be duly attended to 
 while cooking, tossing them over and over. Strain them on one side 
 your saute-pan when done, so as to strain them from the butter; 
 
MASHED POTATOES A LA CREME. 
 
 403 
 
 sprinkle a little salt over them before dishing, and pour round them a 
 little espagnol sauce to which has been added a couple of spoonfuls of 
 good gravy, which should boil together, and poured round the potatoes. 
 
 This manner of dressing potatoes is strictly French, but they generally 
 serve them 1vithout sauce. I never knew any one partake of them with¬ 
 out expressing admiration of the same. They are excellent with a plain 
 broiled rump steak, or scollops of fillet of beef, or plain broiled cutlets, 
 as well as serving them as a vegetable for the second course roast. They 
 are excellent with sauce of tomatoes, piquant sauce, or poivrade sauce. 
 
 Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel. —These are prepared from cold 
 potatoes, which can be cut in slices, and then cut in rounds with a tin 
 cutter. They should be carefully fried of a light colour, and neatly 
 piled in a dish in rows, and a Maitre d’Hotel sauce poured round them 
 
 The Maitre d’Hotel sauce should be made as follows : Chop half a 
 handful of picked parsley very fine, and place it in a pointed tin strainer 
 and dip it into some boiling water with salt in it. Hold the parsley by 
 means of the pointed sieve for about a minute, when take it from the 
 water and partly dry it; then place it with about three parts of a half¬ 
 pint of butter sauce, or melted butter, as it is called by many persons, 
 to which squeeze the juice from half a lemon, and add a little white 
 pepper and salt mixed together. Then make the same thoroughly hot, 
 and pour it round the potatoes, and serve. 
 
 Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel in another way .—Boil off sufficient 
 young potatoes, and when done, strain on a hair sieve, and afterwards 
 place them in the Maitre d’hotel sauce prepared as above. When 
 needed, pour them in a dish, and place some fleurons of puff paste 
 round them (for which see page 363). If you happen to have some 
 potatoes which are not very floury, cut them in slices neatly, and put 
 hem in the sauce, and serve with a few fleurons round them. These 
 are good dishes for luncheon or for dinner, and can also be served for 
 other meals. You can also serve round them croutons of fried bread 
 neatly prepared. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes a la Creme. —Place a dozen medium-sized 
 
 potatoes in the oven to bake, and be particular not to overcook them. 
 
 (About one half-hour or a very little more should cook them.) When 
 
 2 F 2 
 
404 
 
 DRESSED SPINACH WITH ESPAGNOL SAUCE. 
 
 done, which you can tell by pressing one in a cloth, and if you feel it 
 would readily smash, they will do. Then cut each in two, and remove the 
 inside of each on to a wire sieve, and with a wooden spoon press them 
 through the sieve, and pressure is better than rubbing, when they are less 
 likely to have a waxen appearance (which should be prevented if possible). 
 When passed through the wire sieve, place the same in a stewpan, with a 
 pat of butter and a little sugar and salt, and about one gill of cream. 
 These should be gently mixed together ; then add two yolks of very fresh 
 eggs, and bear in mind that the point to arrive at is that the potatoes 
 should be very soft and very white , but sufficiently firm when placed in 
 their dish to keep an upright appearance. 
 
 Let this be your guide in the quantity of cream you should use. They 
 should be dished somewhat in the form of a sugarloaf in their dish, 
 and evenly crimped round with your knife, and sent very hot to table. 
 And let me say potatoes prepared in this way are generally served with 
 the first course removes or remove, also for luncheon. And serve round 
 a sauce of tomatoes. 
 
 Potatoes au Gratin a l’Anglaise. —Prepare these as the above, 
 but add when you begin to mix them two yolks of eggs, and let them 
 be made a little firmer, and butter a sheet of paper, and place it on a 
 baking-sheet. Then break one whole egg, and mix with it a little salt, 
 and when you have made the potato paste into a round pile somewhat 
 resembling a small sugarloaf, egg it over with the egg-brush. Then coat 
 it over with bread crumbs evenly, so that they may adhere well to 
 the outside of the pile, then remove any crumbs from the paper, and 
 then run over the bread crumbs some melted butter, which do by dip¬ 
 ping a butter brush in the butter when melted, and letting the butter 
 run from this over the potatoes. About half an hour before you need 
 them bake them in the oven till of a nice light brown colour. Then 
 place them on their dish, and serve an Italian sauce round, and send to 
 table. 
 
 Dressed Spinach with Espagnol Sauce.—Pick the stalks 
 from a good dish of spinach, and then place it in a tub of water to 
 soak, and become free from any possibility of grit or sand. Change 
 the water several times, and wash out the tub each time. Let me add 
 
STEWED CELERY A LA ESPAGNOL. 
 
 405 
 
 that the spinach should be well stirred about in the water each time it 
 is changed ; in fact, you cannot be too particular in this matter, and no 
 fault belonging or appertaining to the kitchen could be greater than 
 that of sending gritty spinach to table. 
 
 Strain it on a hair sieve when about to boil the same, and have a 
 large stewpan, containing about four or six quarts of water, and into 
 this put three good tablespoonfuls of salt. When boiling, put the 
 spinach into it, forcing it into the boiling water with a large wooden 
 spoon, and bring to the boil as quickly as possible. When it has boiled 
 for a few minutes try the spinach by taking out a little, and if it will 
 readily smash between the finger and thumb , it is done. 
 
 Next, strain it into a hair sieve, and throw a little cold water upon it. 
 Then with a plate or stewpan lid press all the water from it, and chop 
 it on a chopping board quite fine, or you can pound it in the mortar till 
 quite fine. After which, rub it through a wire sieve, and place it in a 
 two-quart stewpan and in this stir it over the fire, and when free from 
 moisture, add a pat of butter, a little bechemelle sauce, some white 
 pepper mixed with a little salt and sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, 
 and a little glaze. When you serve it, make it up in a smooth pile, and 
 crimp it round with your knife, and serve a little espagnol sauce round 
 it, and send to table. It is very nice served with sweetbread, and also 
 with lamb or mutton cutlets. 
 
 Dressed Spinach with Bechemelle Sauce is prepared the 
 same as the above, serving bechemelle sauce round it instead of 
 espagnol. It is also sent to table with the first course remove of roast 
 lamb, when peas are not yet in season, but not usually with the second 
 course roast. 
 
 Stewed Celery a la Espagnol. —The celery for stewing should 
 be the white celery, and it should be cut into equal lengths and the 
 outside of the roots trimmed off. Be very particular that they are well 
 washed, and any rough parts cut away. About nine or twelve small 
 heads should serve you for a dish. When about to stew them, and 
 before doing so, place them in boiling water, and let them boil for two 
 or three minutes, then strain them off, and place them in a stewpan 
 of suitable size, and cover them with water, adding two pats of butter, 
 
40 6 
 
 CELERY AU GRATIN. 
 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pounded lump sugar, and let them 
 stew till tender. When sending to table a few croutons of bread should 
 be cut in the shape of triangles or round, about as thick as an old penny ; 
 they should then be fried, in hot lard, of a nice brown colour, and with 
 a little flour mixed with the white of an egg, so as to form a rather thick 
 paste ; they should be fixed on each side (about six each side), using a 
 little of the white of egg and flour to stick them on the dish with, and 
 afterwards place them in the screen to dry, and become firmly set upon 
 the dish. 
 
 When about to dish the heads of celery, strain them on to hair sieve, 
 after which place them on a saute-pan and add a half pint of espagnol, 
 and let them boil up in the sauce, when dish them between the croutons 
 placed on the dish, and pour the hot sauce over and round the celery, 
 and send away with the second course roast. With black game, roast 
 hare, or roast grouse, this dressed vegetable would serve admirably. 
 
 Celery au Gratin with Sauce a l’lndienne. —Prepare, scald, 
 and cook eight heads of celery the same as the above, then strain them 
 on to a hair sieve, and be careful that they are not too much cooked. 
 After they have drained, they should be dried in a cloth and then cut 
 in two lengthways, and be particular they are freed from any signs of 
 grease. Then arrange them on a dish, and shake a little flour over 
 them. Then crack two whole eggs into a basin, and one yolk, add a 
 little salt, and beat together. 
 
 Then, with your egg brush, carefully egg over each half head of 
 celery, which should be placed on some newly-made bread crumbs and 
 masked with the same, one of the assistants aiding in this matter, one 
 coating them with bread crumbs while the other eggs them over. As 
 they are dipped or coated with bread crumbs they should be neatly 
 arranged on a china dish, and when needed, or a short time before, they 
 should be arranged (about six half-heads at a time), in your wire frying 
 basket, and fried off in some thoroughly hot lard. As you fry them, 
 place them on a wire sieve by the side of the dripping pan to keep hot, 
 when they should be dished between some fried croutons the same as 
 the preceding. Pour round them a curry sauce, with about half a 
 tablespoonful of Indian pickle, chopped extremely fine and boiled in 
 
TOMATOES AU FOUR A LA BOHEMIENNE. 407 
 
 about three parts of half a pint of curry sauce, which should be 
 poured round the celery when called for, and sent away. 
 
 Seakale fried with Sauce Poivrade. —The seakale should be 
 served the same as for the fried celery, and the poivrade sauce made as 
 follows : Add a wineglass of sherry and half a glass of malt vinegar to 
 three parts of half a pint of poivrade sauce. Let these boil together 
 till the sauce is of its original consistency, then pour it boiling hot round 
 the fried seakale when it is asked for. 
 
 Stewed Seakale. —This should be stewed in the same manner as 
 the stewed celery described a page or two back, and a well-made 
 tomato sauce served with them. 
 
 Tomatoes farcie a la Moderne. —Make a two pounds slice of 
 veal into cream of veal, the same as for creams of fowl (see page 131), 
 using veal instead of fowl. Then cut off the stalk part from a 
 dozen ripe tomatoes (which should be of the same size if possible). 
 Squeeze out the pips and watery part. Then fill up the hollows 
 with your cream of veal, and when it is time to cook them, arrange 
 them on a saute-pan, and place a gill of second stock under them, 
 and a sheet of buttered paper, and cook them in a rather hot oven 
 for about fifteen or twenty minutes, or till you feel the cream of 
 veal has set. Then dish them upside down on the dish upon which 
 they are to go to table. Serve a minced mushroom sauce round them, 
 made as follows : chop up eight mushrooms (preserved ones will do) as 
 fine as possible, and boil them in about half a pint of espagnol sauce, 
 with a little mixed white peper and salt in the same. Which should be 
 poured boiling hot round the tomatoes when asked for, and sent to 
 table. 
 
 Tomatoes au four a la Bohemienne. —Select twelve ripe 
 tomatoes of the same size, but not too large. Rub a little butter 
 over a suitably sized saut6-pan, and cut out the green stalks, and bake 
 them in a rather sharp oven for about ten minutes ; but they should 
 be paid attention to, so as to guard them from being over-cooked. 
 When done dish them in a pile, and pour the following bohemienne 
 sauce round them : chop up four truffles very fine, and place them in 
 half a pint of Espagnal sauce, with one wineglass of good sherry, and 
 
4oS 
 
 CHAMPIGNONS A L’lMPERIAL. 
 
 let boil for about five minutes. When the tomatoes are needed, pour 
 the sauce boiling hot over them, and send away. The above dishes of 
 tomatoes can be served with any kind of roast game or poultry. And, 
 as I see tomatoes are now to be obtained all the year round, this 
 splendid vegetable will be found a great acquisition, and, I doubt not, 
 will continually increase in favour. 
 
 Champignons a lTmperial. —Obtain a punnet of good-sized 
 champignons, and if your dinner-party is a large one, you will require 
 two punnets. Cut off the earthy part from each stalk, and any part that 
 does not look well. Now, let me remind you, that the stalks are some¬ 
 times in quite a rotten state. Therefore, give them your hest attention, 
 and cut away any part that is not proper, and as you trim them throw 
 them into a pan of clean cold water. 
 
 Let me remark, also, that by right the champignons for this dish 
 ought to be positively gathered on the same day on which they are to 
 be sent dressed to table. And if you give strict orders to the green¬ 
 grocer or gardener, no doubt they will oblige. When they have all 
 been trimmed, and well washed, dry them in a cloth, and pour a gill of 
 salad oil on to a large saute-pan, and on this place the champignons. 
 Then chop up three shalots, and half a handful of picked parsley, very 
 fine indeed. Afterwards place them in a pointed tin strainer, and hold 
 the point of the same in some boiling water (with about one teaspoonful 
 of salt to a pint of water); let the chopped shalot and parsley boil for 
 about one minute. Then place the same in a pint stewpan, with one 
 gill of tomato sauce, and one gill of finished espagnol, to which add a 
 wineglassful of sherry, and the juice of one lemon. Let these boil 
 together till of the natural consistence of espagnol, when add a little 
 mixed white pepper and salt. When the champignons should be cooked 
 place them on a rather sharp fire or stove, that shows red-hot, and saute 
 them till they show of a light-brown colour, when dish them between 
 some fried croutons of bread, which have been fixed on the dish the 
 same as for celery, and when needed, sauce them partly over the 
 champignons, and the rest of the sauce poured round them. The above 
 dish is expressly adapted to send to table with any kind of game or 
 poultry, or small birds. 
 
MUSHROOMS FARCIE AU GRATIN. 
 
 409 
 
 Mushrooms Farcie au Gratin. —These should be the large-size 
 mushrooms. Let me also candidly say that they are no use unless 
 gathered on the day upon which they are to be cooked. Remove the 
 stalks when about to prepare them for cooking, which place aside. 
 Then peel them and cut off the rough outside edge, and with a small, 
 very sharp knife cut out the black part from under each, and as you 
 thus prepare them, place them in a pan of cold w T ater (about a pint) 
 with the juice of a lemon in it, and when all are done, then examine 
 the stalks, and cut away the waste belonging to them and reserve the 
 best part; take also the best of the peelings. Then wash both stalks 
 and peelings, and chop them with a half handful of parsley from which 
 the stalks have been picked off, along with three chalots. Let these be 
 chopped finely together, and then well mixed with half a pound of pork 
 sausage meat, adding also two spoonsful of chopped ham, and a teacup 
 of fresh-made bread crumbs, with one whole egg or two. All these in¬ 
 gredients place in a kitchen-pan, adding a teaspoonful of mixed white 
 pepper and salt, and then with a wooden spoon thoroughly mix them 
 together. Then place the prepared mushrooms on a hair sieve to drain, 
 after which dry them in a cloth so that they will not show any moisture. 
 
 Next, with an iron spoon divide your prepared farce equally between 
 the mushrooms, pressing your spoon over the top and using your judg¬ 
 ment as to the quantity needed ; as you fill each dip the same into some 
 finely-made bread crumbs (the top part), and arrange them as you do them 
 on a saute-pan. When finished, prepare some clarified butter, and with 
 your butter brush run a little over the bread crumbs on each, and mark 
 them off. When preparing them for dinner they should be placed in a 
 rather sharp oven, sufficiently to brown the bread crumbs, which, when 
 brown, you may rely that the mushrooms are nearly, if not quite done. 
 Serve a little best gravy round them, which has been reduced to a half 
 glaze, after you have built them in a pile on their dish, which should be 
 poured round them very hot just before serving. This dressed vegetable 
 can also be served with any roast game or poultry or small birds. It 
 also makes an excellent adjunct to serve with a well-broiled rump steak, 
 of broiled fillets of beef, or a broiled fowl, or grilled remnants of turkey, 
 for luncheon. 
 
4io 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS AU GRAT1N. 
 
 Cauliflowers au Gratin, Sauce Pascaline.—Trim off the 
 
 greater portion of the leaves and stumps of six cauliflowers. Then have 
 ready four quarts of boiling water in a six-quart stewpan, place in it 
 three tablespoonfuls of salt. When boiling rapidly, place in the same 
 the six cauliflowers, and let them continue to boil rather sharply, giving 
 them your best attention, and when you think they are done, to make 
 quite certain, try one by lifting it on to a slice, and feeling the sprays 
 which contain the flower or part of the same, and if tender, they will do. 
 But it is wise to try the others also, and as you find them sufficiently 
 cooked, remove them from the boiling water, and place them on a hair 
 sieve to drain. When all are done, place a sheet of paper over them, 
 and put them aside to become quite cold. When so, very carefully cut 
 away another portion of the stump or stalk, and do the same by all of 
 them. Then place the largest one on a buttered saute-pan (in the 
 centre), and arrange the other five round the large one, pressing quite 
 close and compactly together, so close that they cannot very readily 
 separate, and will look like one cauliflower. 
 
 Then place a gill of bechemelle sauce on the hot-plate, and when it is 
 hot remove it from the hot-plate, and add to it one yolk of egg, which, 
 with a small wooden spoon, you must stir into the sauce very quickly, 
 and then add another yolk, which must be also well stirred in. After 
 this, again place the stewpan on the fire, and stir the same till the sauce 
 has become nice and thick : after this, place it to become cold ; then 
 make one-fourth of a half-quartern loaf into bread crumbs, by rubbing 
 the bread through a hair sieve (not failing to remember that the loaf must 
 be a day old). And now mask over the six cauliflowers, which you 
 have made into one with your cold sauce, spreading it with a knife 
 smoothly over the whole surface, and on this fix your bread crumbs, 
 patting the same with your hands to make them adhere to the cauli¬ 
 flowers, and remove any surplus crumbs from round the base. A 
 little clarified butter should be run over the bread crumbs. When 
 needed for dinner, it should be baked in the oven for about twenty 
 minutes till of a bright and light brown colour, when with a thin slice 
 it should be very carefully shifted to the dish upon which it is to go to 
 table. When needed, pour round it a well-made tomato sauce , an espagnol 
 
FRITOT OF CAULIFLOWERS. 
 
 411 
 
 sauce , or a bechemelle sauce. The sauce should be very hot before 
 pouring it round, and should not be poured round till the last thing, 
 or when needed to be sent to table. This excellent dressed vegetable 
 can also be sent with any second course roast, either of game or 
 poultry, or with any roast joint for luncheon. (For sauces named see 
 Index.) 
 
 Fritot of Cauliflowers with Sauce Poivrade. —Boil off, as 
 above, three very fine cauliflowers, which have been trimmed also 
 according to the instructions for the above. When quite cold, cut them 
 into as many nice sprays, and of good size, as the cauliflowers will yield, 
 which arrange them on a dish preparatory to frying them. Then pre¬ 
 pare one pound of flour into a fritter batter (for which see page 30); 
 and now prepare a sauce poivrade, as served for the fried sea kale 
 (a few pages back) and about three parts of a pint of sauce will be 
 sufficient. When it is time to fry your fritot of cauliflowers—and 
 about ten minutes should do this—see that the lard for this purpose 
 is nice and hot, and to test its quality in this respect, throw a dust of 
 flour over the parts of the cauliflower arranged on the dish, then dip 
 one or two pieces in the batter (which test by dipping your finger 
 in the same, and if it will lightly mask your finger you may be sure 
 it will the cauliflowers) ; as you dip a few pieces into the batter, let the 
 batter in part run off the same before dropping them in the hot fat. 
 They should be fried of a light brown colour. If they are all right, pro¬ 
 ceed to fry them, and as they will sink to the bottom, it would be unwise 
 to fry too many at a time; take care to have a thin slice by which 
 you can lift them readily to the surface of the fat, and see how 
 they are and as they show nice and brown lift them into one of 
 your frying baskets, holding the same over the frying fat in your left 
 hand. 
 
 When one selection of pieces have been fried off, place them carefully 
 on a wire sieve on one side of the dripping pan, and be cautious not to 
 break the crisp batter in which they are enveloped. When all have 
 been fried off, they should be dished in a pile in the centre of the dish 
 upon which they are to be sent to table. When needed, the sauce 
 should be poured round them very hot and sent away with the appointed 
 
412 
 
 PLAIN BOILED PEAS A L'AMERICAINE. 
 
 roast. Like the preceding they are, while obtainable, suitable for any 
 kind of roast game, or poultry, or small birds. 
 
 Stewed Peas a la Franqaise. —Place one or two quarts of peas 
 on the fire in a suitably sized pan, also a bouquet of young mint, and 
 three or four onions tied together, with about half a pint of white stock 
 and a little sugar and salt sprinkled over them. Let them slowly 
 stew in this till they are tender, then mix a full tablespoonful of flour 
 with a good size pat of butter, which mix smoothly together. When 
 the peas are done, remove the onions and mint, and stir in the mixed 
 flour and butter, so as to mix the same with the peas ; then let them 
 gently simmer again with the peas, and if of a nice consistence, and 
 I mean 7 iot too thick, they will do. If you think they are too thick, add 
 a few spoonfuls of cream or a little more best stock ; then see if they 
 are palatable, and if you think they require a little more salt and sugar, 
 add the same. 
 
 Then cut out some round or triangular croutons of bread, which, when 
 fried of a nice colour, should be built round the inside of the dish (but 
 near to the extreme edge) with the assistance of some white of egg 
 and flour, mixed together to form a paste as before described, and 
 when firmly dried on the bottom of the dish, and when the peas are 
 required for table, pile them up in the centre of the croustades of fried 
 bread, and send them away. Or you can fix some fleurons of puff 
 paste round the inside of the dish (the rounded part near the outside of 
 the bottom of the dish), and dish the peas in the centre, and send to 
 table. 
 
 Plain boiled Peas a PAmericaine. —Boil three pints of young 
 peas with a good bouquet of green mint, and be very particular indeed 
 not to cook them too much. The moment they are done, strain them 
 off, and use salt and no soda in boiling them. Then rub a table¬ 
 spoonful of flour with a pat of butter, and, when smooth, very 
 gently stir this among the peas ; then add about three parts of a half 
 pint of well made tomato sauce to the same, shaking the stewpan lightly 
 till the peas, sauce and flour, and butter have gently but surely mixed 
 together. You must be very careful not to smash the peas, and add a tea¬ 
 spoonful of sugar and salt. Then let them keep hot till you need them. 
 
GREEN ARTICHOKES. 
 
 413 
 
 Fix a border of fleurons of puff paste round the inside of the dish, 
 and in the centre dish the peas when needed. This vegetable will be 
 found most excellent with black game or prairie hens, or Norwegian 
 grouse, and, I think I can say, with ducklings or turkey poults. 
 
 Scarlet Runners a l’Essence. —Having removed the strings 
 from the sides of three pounds of scarlet runners, cut them in fine 
 shreds in a slanting direction, and put them in four quarts of 
 boiling water, which has had two good tablespoonfuls of salt previously 
 placed in the same, and about as much soda as would equal three good- 
 sized peas; let them boil rapidly for five minutes, when strain them off 
 into a hair sieve, and pour enough cold water over them to make 
 them quite cold. Then again put them in a clean stewpan, and add to 
 them half a pint of the best white stock, and in this let them gently 
 simmer till quite tender, keeping the cover of the stewpan firmly fixed 
 down ; giving your attention to the same, and sprinkling over them a 
 little salt, sugar, and white pepper. When they are quite tender (and 
 on this point you must be quite certain), pour off what gravy 
 remains with them into a sautthpan, and reduce it with half a pint of 
 espagnol sauce till of its proper consistency. Add, also, part of this to 
 the beans, with two pats of butter, and keep the remainder hot, and when 
 the beans are required for table dish them in a pile in the centre of the 
 dish, and pour the remains of the sauce round them and send to table. 
 This vegetable, dressed in this way, is excellent for roast mutton, or for 
 braized venison, or a roast haunch of venison. Croutons or fleurons 
 can be served round them. 
 
 French Beans a la Bechemelle. —Prepare two or three pounds 
 of shred French beans according to the number of persons, and boil 
 them till tender in about the same quantity of water, salt, or soda, as for 
 the scarlet runners. When quite tender , strain them on to a hair sieve, 
 and when thoroughly well drained dish them in a pile, and pour a good 
 bechemelle sauce round them, and a little over them, and send to 
 table. This vegetable is suitable for the removes of mutton or lamb, 
 or poultry, and fleurons or croutons can be served round them also.1 
 
 Green Artichokes, Sauce Piquant.— Take six fine artichokes, 
 as large as possible, and place one quart of water in a three-pint kitchen- 
 
414 
 
 GREEN ARTICHOKES. 
 
 pan, into which squeeze the juice of two lemons. Then cut off the 
 stalks close to the bottom, and with a sharp knife cut the artichokes one 
 at a time as you proceed in four quarters, and to cut them from the 
 bottom part is best. Then with your small knife, cut away the choke 
 which is in the centre of each quarter, and you should let your knife 
 cut through just above the solid and white part of the artichoke. Then 
 cut a lemon in two, and with this well rub the white part of the artichoke 
 and with a pair of scissors cut off the greater part of the leaves, but leav¬ 
 ing what remains with a sharp point, and about four leaves to each 
 quarter will be sufficient. 
 
 Let me also remark that you must be very particular to cut aw r ay any 
 specks or part which belongs to the choke, which grow in the centre; 
 trim off also any sharp angles from the white part of the artichoke, so as 
 to make them look as neat and trim as possible, and do not fail to well 
 rub each quarter with a half lemon before placing it in your lemon juice 
 and water. In the same way you have cut and trimmed the first 
 quarter, proceed with the others till all the artichokes have been pre¬ 
 pared. Then have about one quart of boiling water ready in a four- 
 quart stewpan ; place in this a couple of tablespoonfuls of salt, and pour 
 in the lemon juice and water in which your quarters of artichokes have 
 been placed, and directly it boils put into the same the whole of your 
 quarters of artichokes and let them boil for three minutes ; then strain 
 them on to a sieve, when they should be again looked over, and any 
 unsightly brown spots cut off that may show on the white part; after 
 which arrange the quarters at the bottom of a suitably sized stewpan, one 
 quarter leaning upon the other, with the leaves pointing upwards ; they 
 should be packed as closely as possible; take about a half pint of white 
 stock in which the juice of a lemon has been placed, also a tablespoonful 
 of sugar with a little salt, pour this in the stewpan, and place the same 
 on the fire to boil, adding two ounces of butter. 
 
 They should be allowed to gently simmer till the white part has 
 become tender, and you can readily pull away the leaves. When dish¬ 
 ing them up, arrange them on the dish the same as you placed them in 
 the stewpan. Then pour a sauce piquant Italian, or tomato, in the centre, 
 boiling hot, and send away with the roast. They are suitable to be sent 
 
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 4*5 
 
 with any kind of game, or poultry, or small birds, and with many 
 persons are a great favourite. But they are never grown with such 
 perfection in England as in France ; and if you want them in per¬ 
 fection they can readily be purchased, preserved in canisters, without 
 any leaves upon them. They are called fonds, or bottoms, and are all 
 ready prepared for use. They will be found in the shape of small 
 saucers, and about as thick as an old penny piece, and about one-and-a- 
 half inches in diameter. They can be served with almost any kind of 
 sharp sauce, as well as with espagnol sauce or Italian sauce, after 
 boiling them a few minutes the same as the above. 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes a la Maitre d’Hotel. —Select a dozen 
 of about the same size, and as upright in shape as possible. Then with 
 your knife form them into the shape of small sugar loaves, and throw 
 them into cold water, with the juice of a lemon in the same. As you 
 peel them, and make them into shape, be particular to keep them as 
 near the same size as possible. When finished, place them in a couple of 
 quarts of boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt in the same, and let 
 them boil in this for two minutes ; then strain them on to a hair sieve; 
 after which arrange them in a suitably sized stewpan, and add half a 
 pint of best white stock, and let them simmer in this till quite tender, 
 which you can tell by trying them with a thin pointed wooden skewer, 
 which, if it very easily passes through them, they are done. Place them 
 where they will keep hot. Next prepare, if not already prepared, a maitre 
 d’hotel sauce as follows :—Chop half a handful of parsley, from which 
 the stalks have been picked off, which should be chopped as fine 
 as possible, then placed in a tin-pointed strainer, and held (that is to 
 say, the pointed part) in boiling water, in which has been placed some 
 salt. 
 
 Let the parsley remain in this for about one minute, then remove it 
 and dry it in a cloth, and place it on a plate. After this, take half a pint 
 of bechemel sauce, and when hot, stir into the sauce a pat of butter 
 and the juice of half a lemon, and a little mixed salt and white pepper, 
 and keep this sauce nice and hot, but do not let it boil. Afterwards, if it 
 is time, dish your artichokes, and just before sending them to table, mix 
 your chopped parsley into the sauce, then pour it over the artichokes, 
 
416 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 and send away with the roast. This vegetable is very suitable with 
 white meats, such as poultry, veal, or lamb. And I will further remark, 
 by adding the parsley at the last thing, you will prevent it changing 
 colour, which it will do if it remains long in any sauce with acid in it. 
 
4i7 
 
 NOUGAT OR BASKET MOULDS. 
 
 (several other patterns.) 
 
 SECTIONAL BORDER MOULDS, 
 
 WITH LOOSE-TOP DARIOLES. 
 
 The above to be obtained from Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6, Motcomb Street , 
 
 Belgrave Square, London, S. W. 
 
 2 G 
 

MENU OF DINNER 
 
 (SAY FOR OCTOBER 7th), 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 TURTLE AND VENISON DINNER. 
 
 ( Two Soups.) 
 
 Thick and Clear Turtle, a l’Anglaise. 
 
 ( Two Fish.) 
 
 Slices of Cod Fish, with Sauce of Oysters. 
 Canapees de Homards a la Moderne. 
 
 ( Two Entrees.) 
 
 Croquettes of Fowl a la Reine. 
 
 Salmi of Partridges a 1’Essence aux Truffes. 
 
 ( One Remove.) 
 
 Haunch of Venison a P Albion. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Grouse. 
 
 ( Vegetables.) 
 
 Two Saute of Champignons. Sauce Poivrade. 
 ( Remove.) 
 
 Brioche aux Fruit a la Parisienne. 
 
 (Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Two Creams a l’ltalienne. 
 
 Two Pains of Apples a la Royal. 
 
 (Savoury Ejitremets.) 
 
 Two Favorites au Parmesan. 
 
 (Side Table.) 
 
 Legumes en Saison. Salad, Sauces, &c. 
 
 2 H 
 
422 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and veal, and without 
 bones ; one calfs tongue; one or two pound slice of veal. To be in the 
 kitchen on the morning of October 4th, by nine o’clock. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 Four prime slices of codfish ; four dozen oysters, for stewing ; two 
 good-sized lobsters; one gill of live spawn. The codfish to arrive 
 on the morning of the 7th, the other items on the 3rd. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 Three partridges, trussed for roasting; one fine fowl, to boil; two 
 old hens ; five grouse, to roast. The grouse to be in the kitchen on 
 the morning of the 7th, the others on the morning of the 3rd. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Half a bunch of green bazil, half a bunch of marjoram, half a bunch 
 of thyme; eight pounds of scarlet runners ; three punnets of fresh 
 champignons; six carrots ; six onions ; four heads of celery; half a 
 bunch of parsley ; one dozen shalots; eight fragrant lemons; eighteen 
 good apples, for stewing; eight pounds of potatoes; six cauliflowers. 
 The cauliflowers and two punnets of very fresh champignons on the 
 morning of the 7 th, the others on the morning of the 3rd. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 One fine haunch of venison ; one pound and a half red currant jelly; 
 quarter of a pound of pied de Veau gelatine; one pound of mixed 
 preserved fruit (apricots, pineapple, and cherries); two ounces of arrow- 
 root ; two ounces of German yeast; two pounds of fresh butter; three 
 
TURTLE AND VENISON DINNERS. 
 
 423 
 
 pounds of salt butter; eighteen eggs; two pounds of lump sugar, in 
 the lump ; two pounds of powdered lump sugar; one bottle of sherry; 
 half a pound of Parmesan cheese ; rice ; one bottle of port wine; eight 
 pounds of dried turtle meat, light coloured as possible. To be in the 
 kitchen on the morning of the 3rd. One quart of cream, and one of 
 milk, on the morning of the 7th. One pot of apricot jam. 
 
 TURTLE AND VENISON DINNERS. 
 
 It is a general rule that when such expensive articles as Turtle 
 and Venison are used for a dinner, the other courses and dishes 
 used in the same should be kept as light and inexpensive as possible. 
 We have carefully followed this useful rule. And our readers will 
 find in the list of selected soups a quite new and a very economical 
 method of making turtle soup, which I have prepared on many occasions, 
 and found it give the greatest satisfaction, substituting the quenelles 
 and egg balls for turtle fat. 
 
 Let me also state that it would not always be considered judicious to 
 kill a turtle unless it was to serve for a very large dinner, or a series of 
 dinners, where the cook would be requested to select and kill a turtle 
 for the occasion. 
 
 Again let me observe that when one of the soups is ordered to be 
 turtle the quantity needed is generally ordered from a respectable house 
 of business where this expensive soup is always to be obtained. So let 
 me state, if you wish to make it at home on an economical method, nse 
 consomm'e of fowl en tortue , as instructed If this plan is followed, the 
 requisition list will hold good; and the preparation of your foundation 
 sauces and soups will follow in the same manner as given in the first 
 pages of the Kitchen Oracle. All that is necessary is to order as much 
 light-coloured turtle meat as is required, which will be found marked on 
 the requisition list. 
 
 Furthermore, let me add that one turtle soup is often served with a 
 clear soup of some other kind, so as to give a change; for it may so 
 happen that all the guests may not be partial to, or like turtle soup, but 
 this can be readily attended to before commencing, so we shall proceed 
 
424 
 
 THE THICK AND CLEAR TURTLE. 
 
 under the impression that the stocks for the soups and sauces have been 
 duly prepared in the usual manner; that the espagnol and veloute 
 sauces are also ready; that the dried turtle meat has been put in soak, 
 and cut up as instructed, and that the egg balls and quenelles are prepared, 
 and are ready to hand. Also that the fillets of fowl (which came from 
 the old hens), have been preserved and placed aside on ice, and that the 
 calf’s tongue is boiled, as well as the one fine fowl ordered to be 
 trussed for boiling. And that the second stock has also been prepared, 
 with half of it reduced into glaze. 
 
 The Thick and Clear Turtle.— Measure two quarts of your 
 clear consomm6 of fowl, and prepare it by boiling in the same one half 
 of your punnet of fresh champignons, and a sufficient quantity of green 
 basil, marjoram, and green thyme to give the soup a nice flavour, with 
 one gill of good sherry. Finish the same as described for the consomme 
 of fowl en tortue, placing one half the quenelles and egg balls in it after 
 it has been strained through a soup cloth , and adding a little salt and 
 sugar to the same, also one half the turtle meat — after it has been carefully 
 trimmed and freed from fibres or any scaly parts. When it shows quite 
 bright, and has ceased to throw any semblance of scum, place it in the 
 larder in one of your soup bain-maries, leaving the cover a little off. 
 
 Then mix half your second stock and half of your best white 
 stock into five pints of thick turtle, exactly in the same manner 
 as for the thick turtle is described. When it has boiled sufficient 
 time, -.and thrown up the butter contained in the roux, and has 
 been newly skimmed and passed through a wire sieve, then pass it 
 through the taminy cloth into a clean stewpan, adding a little salt and 
 cayenne pepper ; also the turtle meat, the egg balls, and small quenelles. 
 After it has boiled a few minutes, and you find it palatable, mark it off 
 in the larder, leaving the lid partly open. Place an additional glass of 
 sherry in each soup before sending to table. When making the soups 
 hot for serving, divide what basil you have left, or keep back a portion 
 sufficient to make two bouquets, which tie up, leaving a piece of string 
 attached, by which you can readily remove the same when needed ; and 
 place these bouquets in the soup about half an hour before sending to 
 table, removing the same before pouring into the soup tureens. 
 
SAUCE FOR CROQUETTES. 
 
 425 
 
 THE SAUCES FOR DINNER. 
 
 We will now give a list of these, as we have done hitherto, with the 
 quantity needed for the different dishes :— 
 
 Oyster Sauce for Cod Fish, one pint and a half. 
 
 Cardinal Sauce for Canapees, half a pint. 
 
 Veloute Sauce for Croquettes, one pint. 
 
 Salmi Sauce for Partridges, half a pint. 
 
 Sauce for Haunch of Venison, one quart. 
 
 Bread Sauce for Grouse, half a pint. 
 
 Poivrade Sauce for Mushrooms, one pint. 
 
 Butter Sauce for Cauliflowers, one pint. 
 
 Apricot Sauce for Brioche, one pint and a half. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. —For oyster sauce for cod fish, see page 22. 
 
 Cardinal Sauce. —The cardinal sauce for canapees of lobster should 
 be made as follows: After you have removed the flesh of the 
 two lobsters chop up fine the body part, add a half-pint of stock 
 to the same, and let slowly simmer to extract the essence. In the 
 meantime rub two table spoonsful of live spawn through a hair sieve, 
 with about a teaspoonful of water, and place it in a small pan for the 
 present. Then, when ready, strain the liquor or stock from the bodies 
 of the lobsters, to which add a pint of veloute sauce, a spoonful of 
 anchovy sauce, also the lobster spawn which you have passed through 
 the sieve, and reduce these by stirring over the hot-plate in a suitably 
 sized stewpan till about the consistence of double cream. 
 
 Then strain it into a quart stewpan through a taminy cloth. Next 
 cut up the meat from the two lobsters into pieces about a quarter of an 
 inch square; and when you have added a little cayenne pepper, gently 
 stir in the lobster which you have just cut, and which will be now ready 
 to fill the croustades for the canapees when prepared and ready for 
 dinner. 
 
 Sauce for Croquettes. —Reduce three parts of a pint of veloute 
 
 sauce, to which add a piece of glaze as big as a small walnut, to one- 
 
 third its quantity, when the meat from the fowl which has been cooked 
 
 for this purpose should be cut into dice about the eighth of an inch 
 
 2 H 2 
 
426 
 
 SAUCE FOR HAUNCH OF VENISON. 
 
 square, after which the calf’s tongue should be carefully prepared in a 
 similar manner. After the skin and the root have been removed, a little 
 cayenne pepper and salt should be added to the sauce, when the fowl 
 and the tongue should be lightly mixed into the same, and, for the 
 present, placed on a dish in the larder to become cold. The fillets of 
 fowls which you have in reserve should be cooked and added to the 
 boiled fowl. 
 
 Sauce for Salmi of Partridges.—The partridges having been 
 previously very nicely roasted and become cold, the quarters containing 
 the thigh and the legs should be evenly and equally cut from the 
 bodies of each, also the side pieces from the breast, containing the 
 pinion bone, should be cut with equal nicety (and they should be cut 
 rather full), leaving the centre piece of the breast in one piece, which 
 should be cut from the back part. 
 
 After this each piece should be neatly trimmed and the skin removed, 
 which, placing the back aside, will give you five pieces from each par¬ 
 tridge, making fifteen pieces in all. These should be marked off in a 
 suitably sized stewpan; then the backs should be chopped up and, 
 together with the skins and other trimmings, placed in a quart stewpan, 
 to which add three peeled and sliced shalots, two glasses of sherry, one 
 gill of stock, and half a pint of espagnol sauce, which should be allowed 
 to gently simmer for half an hour, when it should be strained into 
 another stewpan through a pointed tin strainer, and allowed to gently 
 simmer, and any scum that rises should be removed, and another gill of 
 sauce added. When it is reduced to its proper consistence it should 
 be passed through a taminy cloth upon the pieces of partridges, which 
 you have marked in a separate stewpan and placed aside for the present. 
 A few preserved mushrooms and three or four sliced truffles should be 
 added to the same. This entree should be dished with croutons round it. 
 
 Sauce for Haunch of Venison.—Place a pint and a half of 
 espagnol sauce in a stewpan, with half a pint of best gravy, a rather 
 large bouquet; of thyme and parsley, four peeled and sliced shalots, one 
 dozen very fresh champignons, about half a bottle of port wine, and about 
 one gill of red currant jelly, or what would be considered a half-pound 
 pot, the last to be smashed on a plate with your knife before adding it to 
 
THE ENTREES. 
 
 427 
 
 the sauce. The above, with the added ingredients, should be allowed 
 to boil very gently for about half an hour, and any scum that may show 
 should be removed. When of the right consistence (which should be 
 that of espagnol sauce), as you will require quite one quart of sauce, add 
 before straining the same another half pint of espagnol, which will fully 
 make up the quantity needed. After this, when the sauce has well 
 boiled up, let it be passed through a taminy cloth into a three-pint stew- 
 pan, when a little salt and cayenne pepper should be added to the same, 
 and marked off in the larder, leaving the lid a little aside to enable the 
 steam to evaporate. 
 
 Bread Sauce for Roast Grouse. —Prepare this sauce as in¬ 
 structed at page 65. 
 
 Poivrade Sauce for Mushrooms. —Put three parts of a pint of 
 espagnol sauce into a stewpan, with one glass of sherry, and one of malt 
 vinegar. Let this reduce to original consistence, and skim the same, 
 adding a little cayenne pepper and salt. Mark off in bain-marie. 
 
 Apricot Sauce for Brioche. —This should be prepared the same 
 as apricot sauce for Baba a la Polonaise. (See page 25.) 
 
 Butter Sauce. —See page 23. 
 
 The Canapee Cases for Canapees of Lobster. —See instruc¬ 
 tions for canapee cases, page 165, and use tops for the same after the 
 manner of the croustades a la Royal, at page 166, or fried bread crumbs 
 can be used instead of the tops. About eighteen cases will be required. 
 
 The Entrees. —Leaving the codfish till the day of the dinner, we 
 will now proceed to finish the entrees which we have in part prepared. 
 So, bring from the larder the prepared fowl and calf’s tongue, which was 
 mixed with the reduced veloutfi sauce. This should be now divided 
 into twelve equal parts, and then made into round balls; and as they 
 are made they should be rolled into some fine and newly-made bread 
 crumbs, and rolled in the hands to cause the bread crumbs to adhere, 
 and placed on a dish beside you. 
 
 After which, crack two whole eggs, which add to two yolks of eggs, 
 add a little salt to these, and well beat together with a whisk. 
 Then, placing the croquettes one at a time on a plate, with an 
 egg-brush egg over or mask the same with egg, when they should be 
 
428 
 
 THE ENTRIES. 
 
 again rolled in bread crumbs (an assistant helping you in this matter) 
 to coat each croquette with the bread crumbs, and patting each one 
 between the hands to make the same adhere, while you egg them over. 
 
 When all are thus prepared, place them on a china dish with a little 
 of the bread crumbs under, and covering them with a sheet of paper, 
 place them in the larder. Then pick a double handful of parsley from 
 the stalks, and place in a pan beside them. When required to pre¬ 
 pare them for dinner, it will be necessary to have some hot lard to fry 
 them in, which (to test its heat) place half a slice bread in the same, 
 which, if it fries nice and brown, you may be sure it will fry your 
 croquettes the same. Then fry your croquettes by placing four at a 
 time in a wire frying basket, and submerging the same in the hot fat, 
 now and then giving the frying basket a slight shake, so as to cause the 
 croquettes to roll over in the same. By this means you will make them 
 to fry of a uniform colour (which should be of a light brown). When 
 you see they are so, remove them, and place them on a wire sieve on 
 one side the dripping-pan to keep hot. Then fry the others in the same 
 manner. After this squeeze out the parsley, so as to press all the water 
 from it: afterwards put it in the frying basket of wire. 
 
 When your fat has again become nice and hot, place the wire 
 frying-basket containing the prepared parsley in the centre of the 
 hot fat, and let it remain for a few seconds in the same (shaking the 
 basket slightly now and then) ; then lift the basket from the fat, and 
 if the same feel quite crisp, place it on a dish, so that the fat can 
 strain from the parsley, and let it remain on the dish in the screen. 
 Finally, when you expect that the entrees will very shortly be needed, 
 fold a napkin evenly and place it in one of the entree dishes — or a 
 dessert paper would do—and on this make a nice even pile of your 
 croquettes, somewhat resembling a pile of cannon balls. They should 
 then be slightly pressed together with your hand, so as to prevent them 
 tumbling down while being carried to table; then place two piles of fried 
 parsley on each side and, when asked for, send them to table. 
 
 But let me observe, croquettes, rissolles, or cromeskys, should not 
 be dished till the very last moment, for, if dished too soon, their crisp¬ 
 ness is likely to deteriorate. 
 
THE HAUNCH OF VENISON. 
 
 429 
 
 Salmi of Partridges a l’Essence. —As these have been pre¬ 
 pared so as to obtain the essence from the trimmings of the partridges, 
 and are ready in their sauce, the only thing to speak of is the method 
 of making them hot, which should be done not by letting them boil, but 
 by placing the stewpan containing them in the bain-marie case in good 
 time. Also cut a few croutons of bread from some slices cut from a 
 half-quartern loaf a day old, which should be about as thick as an old 
 penny-piece and as large as a crown piece, when, with a round tin cutter, 
 cut out as many circular pieces as you need; about fifteen should be ample. 
 
 After you have cut these with a tin cutter, cut out an equal sized 
 circular piece from the top or side of each round piece, with a cutter the size 
 of a shilling, which should show like a crescent on the top of each round 
 when fixed round the entree dish. You must be particular to cut the 
 crescents of equal size. When they are thus far prepared they should 
 be fried in your hot lard of a light brown colour; then mix the white of 
 an egg with some flour into a rather thick paste, and, fixing a little of 
 this paste on each round of fried bread, form a circle or oval (according 
 to the shape of the entree dish inside) sufficiently large in the centre to 
 give ample space to easily dish your entree in the centre. 
 
 In forming your border, you must take care that the crescent shows 
 right in the centre when fixed upon the entree dish (that is to say, not 
 in the least lop-sided). When all are fixed on, the dish should be 
 placed in the screen or hot closet to dry the croutons, which 
 should become very firmly fixed on the dish. When you consider 
 it time to dish the salmi of partridges, lift out the pieces of par¬ 
 tridges with a fork on to a china dish, and place the quarters or pieces 
 containing the thigh at the bottom, and your side pieces from the 
 breast in a circle; then strain the mushrooms and cut truffles from the 
 sauce. Place these in the centre, and on these the pieces of the breast. 
 After this, keep the entree where it will keep hot, and when needed to 
 go to table (and not till then) pour a little of the sauce over the pieces of 
 partridges, and the remainder round the fried croutons, and send away. 
 
 The Haunch of Venison. —Saw off the shank bone and trim off 
 with a sharp knife any patches of brown skin which might show upon 
 the same; and, as it will take from four to five hours to nicely roast the 
 
430 
 
 THE VEGETABLES. 
 
 same—and better say five hours than otherwise—it is wise to see that 
 the range fire is made up in good time, so that when the haunch of 
 venison is put down to roast, there is a good fire before it. Use a cradle 
 spit ; this is best, as then there is no fear of its becoming loose, but 
 if fixed upon an ordinary spit, take care you have two hold-fasts ready, 
 one to fix firmly into the haunch at each end, fixing one on the spit 
 before the haunch is placed upon the same, and place it on the spit 
 with the fillet side nearest to you, and screwing up the holdfasts 
 thoroughly tight before placing it to roast. Before placing it down, 
 about four pounds of flour should be mixed into a very stiff paste with 
 boiling water, stirring the hot water into the flour with a wooden spoon, 
 then rolling it out into one piece, so that it will entirely cover the up¬ 
 side of the joint, and partly enwrap the other or under side. Then a 
 thick and large sheet of kitchen paper should be very neatly tied over 
 the hot water paste, tying the string, beginning at the shank end, about 
 a dozen times over and over the paper, and fixing in a knot at each 
 circle made by the string. After this has been done right down to 
 where the fillet shows, then interlace the same right round the haunch 
 with another piece of string; and the same right down the centre, and 
 the same underneath, and tying it in a knot at each band of string which 
 was first tied round the haunch. When this has been done, place the 
 haunch to roast, taking care that it is not placed too close to the fire, 
 also that it is well basted during the time it is roasting. 
 
 When it has been down to the fire the time specified, it should be 
 taken from the spit, and the paper and paste carefully removed, so as 
 not to injure the fat. Next it should be placed on a clean baking sheet, 
 and a little superfine flour with some salt mixed with it, should be lightly 
 shaken over the haunch, after which it should be placed in the mouth 
 of the oven, and kept very hot till needed to be sent to table ; two boats 
 of red currant jelly should be sent with it. Also the venison sauce 
 should be sent boiling hot to table, either in a bain-marie or stewpan 
 which would hold one quart. 
 
 The Vegetables.—Which should consist of cut scarlet runners 
 and cauliflowers, with mashed potatoes a la creme, also plain boiled 
 potatoes, should be sent very hot immediately after the haunch. Let 
 
THE SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 431 
 
 me add that there should be two good dishes of scarlet runners which 
 should be most attentively prepared, taking due care to remove the 
 strings which run up the sides of each, and further that the beans are 
 cut in shreds as fine as possible, and placed in cold water as they are 
 cut, with some salt in the same. 
 
 Boil these in plenty of water, with a tablespoonful of salt to each 
 quart of water, also see that the water is boiling, when the beans are 
 placed in the same, and afterwards again brought to the boil as quickly 
 as possible. Place a piece of soda about as big as an ordinary marble 
 in the same, and finally be most particular that they are nicely cooked, 
 and sufficiently but not overdone. Take care also that the butter sauce 
 is strained before pouring it over the cauliflowers ; also that the plain 
 boiled potatoes are placed on the fire to boil only five minutes, before 
 the hour for which the dinner is announced, so as to send them nice 
 and flowery to the table, also hot from the fire. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE ROAST, AND VEGETABLES 
 SERVED WITPI THEM. 
 
 The Grouse to roast will take about thirty minutes, and should be 
 served with some good strong gravy and bread-sauce in boats ; also a 
 few freshly-fried bread-crumbs fried over the hot-plate, with a couple of 
 pats of butter to a good double handful of bread-crumbs, which should 
 be placed in a saute-pan, and stirred and shaken over the fire till they 
 are of a light-brown colour, when they should be made into a slight 
 pile on each side the grouse. 
 
 The vegetable will be the sautt of champignons with poivrade sauce ; 
 which should be prepared as follows : Trim off the earthy part from the 
 stalks from the two punnets of fresh champignons; after which, 
 thoroughly wash them in cold water, and strain them on a sieve. They 
 should also be dried in a cloth. Then pour one gill of salad oil into a 
 saut6-pan of suitable size, and place the champignons in the same (look¬ 
 ing over and trimming them slightly from any defects before doing so). 
 
 Then cover them with a round of paper, and place them in the larder 
 till you are ready to cook them for dinner. A few croutons of bread, 
 somewhat the same as those prepared for the salmi of partridges, should 
 
432 
 
 TWO PAINS OF APPLES A LA ROYAL. 
 
 be cut and fried, and fixed upon the two dishes in the same manner. 
 When cooking them for dinner, place the saute-pan containing them over 
 the hottest part of the hot-plate, and fry them of a light-brown colour. 
 When you see they are done, pour off the oil, and shake a little mixed 
 white pepper and salt and the juice of one large or the juice of two 
 small lemons, and dish them in a couple of piles in the centre of the 
 croustades, and when about sending away to table, pour a little of your 
 poivrade sauce (already prepared) over the mushrooms, and the rest 
 round the croustades, and then send to table with the roast grouse. 
 
 Brioche with Mixed Fruit a la Parisienne. — Prepare onepound 
 mixture of brioche paste, exactly the same as for the Baba a la Polo¬ 
 naise. Also prepare the mould as therein instructed for baking the 
 brioche in. When you have lined the said mould very lightly or thinly 
 with the plain paste , take the remaining one pound of fruit, con¬ 
 sisting of preserved pineapple, cherries, and apricots, which should 
 be cut up rather small, and well mix with the brioche, when the mould 
 should be filled nearly full, and afterwards a well buttered band of paper, 
 three inches deep, tied round the same. When it has proved sufficiently 
 light (as instructed for the Baba a la Polonaise), it should be attended to 
 in every way the same as for that cake, and should be also finished and 
 sent to table in the same way (for which see page 26), serving an apricot 
 sauce round it. 
 
 SWEET ENTREMETS. 
 
 Two Creams a ITtalienne. —For making the above seepage 285. 
 
 Two Pains of Apples a la Royal. —Peel eighteen stewing 
 apples, and select them as white in colour as you can obtain them. As 
 you peel them, cut out the cores, and put them in a pint of cold water 
 in a kitchen-pan. To this add one half-pound of powdered lump sugar, 
 and the juice of two lemons. When all are peeled and cored, place 
 them in a stewpan with the water, sugar, and lemon-juice, and bring 
 them to the boil as quickly as possible. Then draw them aside, and 
 let them gently simmer till they become quite a pulp. While thus cook¬ 
 ing, place four ounces of pied veau gelatine in a pint of cold water to 
 soak, and make one pound of sugar boil in three parts of a pint of water 
 for syrup, taking care to skim the same, and when it boils, place it 
 
TWO PAINS OF APPLES A LA ROYAL. 
 
 433 
 
 where it will become cold. Have ready two quart jelly moulds with 
 pipes in them thoroughly scalded and prepared for use. You will also 
 require a very clean hair-sieve, free from any holes, well washed and dried. 
 
 Now look to the apples, and if they have boiled to a thorough 
 pulp, place the clean hair-sieve over a china dish, and with a wooden 
 spoon rub the same through the sieve, and place it, when all have 
 passed, in a clean stewpan, which place aside for the present. Then 
 place a small stewpan on the fire with one gill of water, to which, when 
 it boils, add the gelatine (which has for some time been in soak), and 
 stir this with a wooden spoon till it boils and has become thoroughly 
 dissolved. Then obtain the zest from three lemons by rubbing them on 
 a piece of sugar in the lump, and when the lemons have been well 
 rubbed, scrape off the zest, which add to the gelatine. Now, with a 
 jelly mould of a size similar to the two you have had washed, measure 
 the pulp from the apples, and make up sufficient to fill the two moulds 
 by adding the dissolved gelatine and some of the syrup, which you 
 placed to become cold, to make up sufficient to fill the two fluted 
 moulds, which you have had prepared. 
 
 Let me observe that the apple pulp with the additional syrup and 
 gelatine should be now stirred over the fire to become well amalgamated, 
 and that it should be tasted to see if the flavour is good. Then if you 
 think the juice of another lemon would improve the flavour, add the 
 same or a little more syrup. When the flavour is to your satisfaction, 
 place the stewpan with the pulp in a china basin, and arrange round it 
 a little rough ice and about one quart of water, and continue to stir the 
 pulp of apples till you see it is beginning to set, when the two prepared 
 moulds should be filled with the same. After which place them in a 
 suitably sized kitchen-pan with the ice and water which you have been 
 using, placed round the moulds ; then place them in a larder. Your 
 Italian creams should be served in the same manner. They should be 
 dipped in some water slightly warm, after the manner of jellies, before 
 turning them out, and a little sweet custard should be placed round 
 the apples, and a little pink syrup, flavoured with a couple of table 
 spoonfuls of maraschino, poured round the creams. When required to 
 be sent to table, send the four moulds away together. 
 
 2 I 
 
434 
 
 LIST OF SELECTED SOUPS. 
 
 Favorites au Parmesan.— To make and send the favorites to 
 table (see page 19) where every particular will be found for making, 
 frying, and sending to table. With these our turtle and venison dinner, 
 or the description thereof, has come to an end. And such is our confi¬ 
 dence in the clear descriptions we have given—not only in the preparation 
 of the different dishes, but also in the manner of finishing and sending 
 the same to table—that we believe nothing more need be said in the 
 matter of instruction. So we will at once proceed to other matters of 
 importance and novelty. 
 
 We shall now give a list of selected Soups, as follows :— 
 
 LIST OF SELECTED SOUPS. 
 
 Turtle Soup, Thick and Clear. 
 
 Clear Consomme of Fowl en Tortue a la Moderne. 
 
 Calf’s Kidney Soup a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Calf s Head Soup en Kari. 
 
 Creme of Veal Soup a la Moderne. 
 
 Calves’ Tail Soup a l’Indienne. 
 
 Clear Soup of Calves’ Tails a l’Jardiniere. 
 
 Consomm^ of Pheasants aux Quenelles. 
 
 Creme of Pheasants a la Reine. 
 
 Consomme of Partridges a la Julienne. 
 
 Consomme of Partridges a la Reine. 
 
 Creme of Partridges a la Windsor. 
 
 Consomme of Grouse a la Julienne. 
 
 Creme of Grouse a la Windsor. 
 
 Giblet Soup, Thick and Clear a la Anglaise 
 
 Fish Soups. 
 
 Oyster Soup a 1 ’Anglaise. 
 
 Turbot Soup a la Cardinal. 
 
 Eel Soup a la Richmond. 
 
 Bisque of Lobster a l’Essence. 
 
 Bisque of Prawns a la Moderne. 
 
CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 435 
 
 Clear Turtle Soup. —Select a light-coloured turtle, with the neck 
 and underneath parts white. A fish about eighty pounds is a good 
 size for a private establishment. Where such soup may be in requisi¬ 
 tion, be careful to note that the fish is in a lively condition, and 
 looks to the eye nice and plump. It should be killed the night before 
 cooking the same, in the following manner: Turn the turtle on its back, 
 and with its head towards you, on the kitchen dresser. Then place a 
 stout meat hook so that it will fix firmly on the hooked part of the upper 
 jaw. On this, that is to say, on the extreme or other end of the meat 
 hook, hang a twenty-eight pound weight, which after a short time will 
 cause the neck to stretch forth. Then with a very sharp knife in your 
 right hand, and holding the neck in your left hand for support, cut the 
 head clean off, which you will be sure to do if you cut through that part 
 which is nearest to the shoulders. Then lift the fish on to a pail, and 
 let the blood drain from it during the night. The next day, replace the 
 body of the turtle on the dresser upon its back, then ait through the 
 clearly marked line which runs all round the extreme of the belly part , 
 and through that soft part which joins the fins to the belly part. By this 
 means you will be enabled to partly lift up one end (the part nearest to 
 where the head was cut off); then, keeping your knife as close up to the 
 belly piece as possible, cut through the flesh that adheres to each fin, 
 and by this means you can remove in one piece the flat white part which 
 covers the entrails. 
 
 After this has been done with a sharp, pliable knife, remove the 
 
 right-hand fin by cutting under it, and as close to the upper shell as 
 
 possible, when all you have to cut through is a gristly part about half 
 
 an inch thick. Then lift up the fin, which has a lump of lean flesh 
 
 adhering to it, and to get the fin clean away you must cut through a 
 
 slight substance adhering to the same. Next remove the left-hand 
 
 fin in the same manner, and after this lift the back shell on to 
 
 a pail, and remove the gut or intestines into the same (which 
 
 are of no use, and can at once be placed aside). Then with 
 
 your pliable knife cut right under the hind fins on each side; 
 
 after which, holding a fin in each hand, twist the bone to which 
 
 they are attached with all your force right round, when what is 
 
 2 12 
 
436 CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 called, and resembles, a chair, with the fins attached, will come 
 away. 
 
 Then the next proceeding is to put the back shell on the chopping 
 block, and chop out a central piece from the same, about five inches, 
 which will prove to be bone ; then chop the other part in six pieces, 
 but before you do, look round the inside edge of the same, and with 
 your pliable knife cut out all the turtle fat you can find, with the skin 
 which adheres to the same, which will show like a green fatty substance, 
 which carefully place in a stewpan. Cut off, also, all you can find round 
 the fins. After this chop the flat shell, or belly part, into six pieces, 
 which place with the pieces cut from the upper shell. Then cut away 
 the lean veal-looking meat which adheres to the fins, securing all the fat 
 you can find. Place the veal-looking meat on a dish for the present. 
 Then place your bain-marie case on the hot-plate half full of water, and 
 when it boils throw into it a pint of cold water. After this, place two 
 of the fins in the hot water for two minutes, then remove them on to a 
 cutting-board, and with your knife scrape off the skin or shell part adhering 
 to them. If such does not come off easily, place them in the hot water 
 again for a minute, when the skin and shell part will easily come away. 
 And you must so proceed with each piece cut from the top shell as from 
 the white belly part, placing not more than two or three pieces in the 
 water at a time ; and if boiling when about placing in the different parts, 
 take the precaution of adding previous to so doing a pint of cold water, 
 and when the shell has been removed from the four fins, also from what 
 you have cut up, then scald the head in the same manner. After which, 
 cut up all the veal-like looking meat which came from the inside of the 
 turtle, to which add twenty pounds of knuckle of veal and three old 
 hens (from which you have removed the fillets), all of which should be 
 cut up, and placed with the veal and turtle meat into a suitably-sized 
 stock-pot. 
 
 On the top of this stock-meat place a couple of china or pewter dishes, 
 and place round on the same the pieces of turtle which you have cut 
 up, also the head, and covering the same with water, bring as rapidly 
 to the boil as possible, and take care to thoroughly skim the same. 
 Then add two heads of celery, six large onions, and three large carrots, 
 
THE TURTLE MEAT. 
 
 437 
 
 and let gently boil, till you find what is called the calipash and calipee 
 is done ; and you can judge of this by placing a couple of pieces in 
 cold water, and if by gentle pressure your finger and thumb will easily 
 squeeze through, you can be sure it will do ; and the calipash and 
 calipee are the gelatinous parts which form the apparent top and bottom 
 shell of the turtle. 
 
 To readily get at this, you must strain off about half the turtle broth, 
 then with a small slice you can remove the same, placing it in a pan of 
 cold water as you do so, till every bit has been removed, when again 
 put back the stock which you strained off, and let it proceed to boil 
 for about five hours from the time it commenced to boil, or another 
 half hour would do no harm. And while the turtle stock is thus pro¬ 
 ceeding, cover the turtle fat with water, and let it boil slowly for half an 
 hour, then place it in cold water. Place the fins at present in the 
 larder, for purposes which will be explained further on; also the fat, 
 placing a little ice with the fat, so that it can quickly become cold. The 
 six fillets from the old hens should also be placed between two plates 5 
 and put in the larder. 
 
 The Turtle Meat consists of those gelatinous parts that come from 
 the sides and from the bottom of the turtle ; and they require a good deal 
 of attention in cutting up the same, and also to trim the same so as to 
 become thoroughly fit to be served in the soup. So proceed as follows:— 
 Take one or two pieces, and with your knife cut away the superfluous 
 and useless parts, and cut each piece into squares of about one inch ; 
 and by carefully examining each piece, you will find small strips like 
 strings embedded throughout the turtle meat. Such must be retnoved 
 from each piece of calipash and calipee before cutting the same into 
 one-inch squares. However tedious the process may prove, these 
 strings or any scaly part must be cut away, and each must be considered 
 faultless before it is placed in a clean pan of water, and considered fit to 
 serve in the soup. When thus far finished, place all the meat thus 
 obtained in a pan of cold water, and put it in the larder. Then bring 
 out the fat, and cut it up into square pieces about one quarter of an 
 inch square, taking care to remove any gristly or fibrous parts; and when 
 you have cut all up, place them in the larder also in cold water. 
 
43§ 
 
 THICK AND CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 We will now suppose that the stock has boiled sufficiently long, and 
 has been duly strained off, and that the meat has a second time been 
 covered with water, and I should say, barely covered, and allowed to 
 boil for about three hours. Then it should be also strained off, and 
 placed in the larder till the next day, when a nice bunch of fresh basil, 
 also a bunch of marjoram, also half a bunch of green thyme, and a 
 couple of punnets of fresh-gathered champignons, and the half of a well- 
 flavoured ham, with two pounds of lean gravy beef, should be got ready. 
 Then proceed to make both thick and clear turtle soup as follows :— 
 
 Thick and Clear Turtle Soup to finish. — Divide the best or 
 first turtle stock into two parts, two-thirds to be kept for clear turtle and 
 one-third for thick, which should be placed in two separate stewpans, 
 and place the second turtle stock in another stewpan. Place all three 
 on the hot-plate to boil. While they are doing so, have the two pounds 
 of gravy beef passed through a sausage machine, and let it be passed 
 twice through, having had it cut up into pieces about one inch square 
 before so doing. When it has passed through the sausage machine, 
 place it in a two-quart kitchen-pan, and add a pint of water to the same, 
 and stir it well together with a wire whisk. Then crack eight whole 
 eggs, one at a time, and be very cautious to smell the same, for fear of a 
 musty one, and as you crack them and smell them, put them in a tw r o- 
 quart kitchen-pan, and well beat these together. Mix them with the 
 gravy beef and water. Then mix them with your best turtle stock, with 
 half a pint of good sherry. 
 
 Now have your two punnets of mushrooms trimmed, washed, and 
 prepared. Have also your green basil and fresh marjoram and thyme 
 cut off at the roots, or a little above the roots, and carefully washed and 
 placed on a hair sieve before you. Next cut up half the basil, and 
 about one-third the marjoram, and half the green thyme, and one punnet 
 of fresh champignons, which add to the best turtle stock (the largest 
 quantity); also cut up a good slice of ham, and add to the same. 
 
 Let one of your assistants stir this till it comes to the boil—and a large 
 wooden spoon or tinned slice will do to stir it with—and when it comes 
 to the boil, place it alongside the hot-plate, where it can gently simmer for 
 about an hour. Then, while this is proceeding, reduce the second turtle 
 
THE THICK TURTLE. 
 
 439 
 
 stock to one half, then add it to the smaller quantity of best stock, and 
 from this proceed to make your thick turtle soup. Cut up the other 
 punnet of fresh champignons, also the remainder of your green basil 
 and green thyme, and about half the remainder of the marjoram, but 
 do not use the stalks from the marjoram. Place them, when you have 
 cut them up, in the other turtle stock (consisting partly of first and 
 second stock), and let the herbs and mushrooms boil in this, adding a 
 slice of ham cut up, and half a pint of sherry. 
 
 Then prepare one lb. of clarified butter into brown roux (for 
 which see page n), and this should have been prepared the day 
 previous, so as to be quite cold. Now measure your turtle stock, 
 and for every two quarts you will require a small handful of brown 
 roux, which place in a suitably-sized stewpan, and begin by pouring 
 over the roux one quart of hot turtle stock in which your herbs have 
 been boiling; mix this well together, then add another quart of stock 
 (herbs and all). When all your stock is nearly used, bring it to the boil, 
 and let slowly simmer, to throw up the butter from the roux, and be 
 careful to see if it is sufficiently thick. If not, mix in a little more roux 
 on the same principle as you did when you commenced to thicken it in 
 the first instance. And when you feel certain your thick turtle is 
 of the right consistence, let it continue to very gently boil for about 
 an hour. 
 
 During this time, look to the state of your clear turtle, and if it has 
 been gently boiling, and shows quite bright, then let it be strained through 
 a clean soup cloth (with no holes in it) into a clean and suitably-sized 
 stewpan. When you have done so, then strain off the turtle meat into 
 a hair sieve, and do the same with the turtle fat. And this done, place 
 half the turtle meat in the clear soup, and let it boil up and stand by, 
 and skim off any scum that may rise, and taste the same, and if to 
 your palate, so far, so good; but I fancy a little salt might be added, 
 also the half of the turtle fat. When it has again boiled up, and again 
 been skimmed, place it in. clean and dry kitchen-pans , and place them 
 in the larder for use when needed. 
 
 The Thick Turtle. —Now give your best attention to the same, 
 removing the butter that has risen from the roux in the first instance, 
 
440 
 
 FINS OF TURTLE A LA FINANCIERS. 
 
 straining the soup through a wire sieve, and afterwards through a tammy 
 cloth. Then put it back into a clean stewpan. Next add the remains 
 of the turtle meat, which you cut into squares, and then bring it to the 
 boil, removing with your skimming-spoon any scum that may rise. Let 
 me observe that thick soups will require a little time to do this; so, let it 
 gently boil for about a quarter of an hour, and remove all the scum 
 which shows. When you see it has ceased to throw up any more, then 
 place in it the remainder of the turtle fat, which let boil for a few 
 minutes, and remove any more scum that may show. 
 
 Then place it in clean dry pans, and try to place about the same 
 amount of meat and fat in each kitchen-pan. This you can readily do 
 by the aid of a perforated spoon, which by using in each pan will show 
 how much you have in each, and if there is more meat in one pan than 
 another, give from the over quantity to the lesser. Do the same with 
 the clear soup. 
 
 Critical Remarks on Turtle Soup. — I think myself it is a very 
 stupid practice, after the stocks have been duly prepared and flavoured 
 with the usual amount of vegetables, to repeat the process by adding more 
 and using such a superabundance as to injure the turtle flavour, which 
 ought to be preserved ; to say nothing of the labour thrown away by 
 skimming back what you have the labour of passing through the tammy 
 cloth. As I used vegetables to flavour my turtle stock in the first 
 instance, I think it would be stupid to repeat the process. In most 
 kitchens at the present day, in my own humble opinion, a great deal 
 too many vegetables are used. For instance, it is not the flavour of 
 vegetables that is required to predominate, but the flavour of the turtle. 
 Hence it is that, in the above soups I have altogether left out the use of 
 spices , and been as sparing of vegetables as possible. 
 
 Fins of Turtle a la Financiere. —Take the two smallest fins of 
 turtle which you have in reserve, and make a cut of about three inches 
 lengthwise in the underneath part of the fins. Then place them in a 
 stewpan, and cover them with water to the depth of two inches, and 
 place them to boil for about two hours, or till they are tender. When 
 so, they should be removed with a slice into a pan of cold water, to cool 
 them so as you can handle them. Then place them on a dish again, and 
 
FINS OF TURTLE EN KARI A L’lNDIENNE. 
 
 441 
 
 remove all the bones and lean meat from the inside. Then from the fillets 
 of fowl which you cut from the old hens, and which you have in reserve, 
 make some quenelle in the same manner as described for quenelle of 
 pheasant (see page 15). 
 
 When this is quite ready, chop up four truffles; mix them with two- 
 thirds of the quenelle, and place one-half in each fin, from which you 
 have removed the small bones and the meat. When you have placed 
 the quenelle in, smooth over the part which will show through, and 
 place three rounds of truffles, cut from thin slices of truffles, with a 
 round tin cutter about the size of a sixpence. To fix them on the 
 quenelle, beat up the white of one egg on a plate, with a fork, and with 
 your finger smooth over the quenelle that shows through the cut, and 
 on this place at equal distance three rounds of truffle on each. 
 
 Then trimming the meaty end of each fin, so as to look even, place the 
 two fins on a saute-pan with the stock in which they were boiled, and 
 cover them with a round of buttered paper, and when needed for dinner or 
 lunch, serve a ragout a la financiere in four piles round them, consisting 
 of champignons, sliced truffles, cockscombs, and quenelles—the last to 
 be made from the remains of the quenelle with which the fins were 
 farced. They should be modelled in the same shape as for quenelles of 
 pheasants, only using teaspoons instead of tablespoons, and make the 
 financiere sauce from your thick turtle , reducing one pint to the proper 
 consistence with one gill of Madeira or good sherry. 
 
 Next pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie ready for use. When 
 about to cook the fins, they should be placed in the oven for twenty 
 minutes, till the quenelle has become firm. Then dish the fins as an 
 entree or as a remove, and having made the ragout hot before using it, 
 dry it in a cloth, and then as before make four piles (small ones) round 
 the fins. After this, and just before serving, pour the financiere sauce 
 with a spoon over the ragout, and the remainder over the fins. Then 
 send to table. 
 
 Note .—You must take care the fins are quite tender, and all fibres 
 removed before serving them. 
 
 Fins of Turtle en Kari a l’lndienne. —Now prepare the two 
 large fins of turtle as follows :—Spread one lengthways before you on 
 
442 
 
 FINS OF TURTLE EN KARI A L’lNDIENNE. 
 
 your chopping-board. Then cut off, in a slanting direction, the thin 
 end of the fin. Then with a sharp knife cut the fin through at equal 
 distances, and in pieces, about three-quarters of an inch wide, which do 
 with your chopping-knife. Place these pieces (serving each fin the 
 same) in a stewpan, and cover the same with water. Then let them slowly 
 boil till tender, placing with them one carrot, one onion, and one small 
 white head of celery cut very fine. You must be most particular not to 
 over-cook the pieces, so, look at them now and then, to guard against 
 what I state. When the pieces from the fins are done to your satisfac¬ 
 tion, remove them into a kitchen-pan half full of cold water. Place a 
 little ice with them, and let them stand aside for the present. Now 
 strain the stock in which they were braized, and add sufficient thick 
 turtle soup to it to make one pint, and let them boil together. Then 
 place in a stewpan a tablespoonful of Cook’s curry paste, a small table¬ 
 spoonful of Indian curry powder, and two tablespoonfuls of Indian 
 chutney sauce ; to which add a spoonful of brown roux, and mix these 
 with the stock which came from the fins, and to which you added 
 sufficient thick turtle to make one pint of sauce. 
 
 You must add only a little of the last at a time, so as to make and 
 mix it smooth ; then bring it to the boil, and let it gently simmer, but 
 make sure it is sufficiently thick. If not, mix in a little more roux, and 
 bear in mind your curry sauce must be a little thicker than ordinary 
 sauces. While your curry sauce is preparing, boil one pound of rice, 
 but look over the same before doing so, and pick out any black specks 
 or soiled grains. Let me observe that the best Carolina rice should be 
 used. It should be well washed, and boiled till tender in six quarts of 
 water. When it becomes tender, you can tell by pressing one or two 
 grains between the finger and thumb, and if by so doing you can readily 
 smash them, you may be sure the rice is sufficiently cooked. 
 
 It should be then strained off into a hair sieve, and some clean hot 
 water poured over it j and when it has well drained, place half of it on a 
 clean hair sieve, which cover with a damp cloth and place in the screen 
 to dry and get nice and hot by the time you need it. Then place the 
 other in a stewpan, and make a border of it round your entrees or flat 
 dishes in the following manner :—Take a wineglass of good shape, and 
 
FINS OF TURTLE EN KARI A L’lNDIENNE. 
 
 443 
 
 have a pan of hot water beside you, and also a wet napkin, also the 
 stewpan containing the rice you have just boiled. Then wet the glass 
 and fill it with the rice, using a little pressure with an iron spoon. As 
 you do so, and the glass is filled, pass your small knife round the inside 
 of the glass, keeping the same close to the glass. After which turn out 
 the rice on the silver dish. To prevent the dish from being soiled cut 
 the centre out of a piece of paper, so that the outside of the paper will 
 protect the border of the dish. Then proceed to keep filling the wine¬ 
 glass and turning it out on the dish till you have made a border of the 
 same all round the inside of the dish. You should wipe out the glass 
 with a wet napkin each time it is used. 
 
 If you have not quite sufficient rice, take some of that which you have 
 placed on the sieve ; and the dish on which you have formed the border 
 should be kept covered till you need it, as the rice by this means will 
 look fresher ; and to make it so, place it in the screen for about one 
 hour before you need. 
 
 Now look to your curry sauce, and skim off any butter that has risen. 
 Then pass it through a pointed tin strainer into a bain-marie, when place 
 it aside till you need it. When look to the pieces cut from the fins 
 which you placed in ice water. Place them now on a cloth ; examine 
 each piece very closely, and cut away any fibres or scaly parts found upon 
 the same ; also remove any bones unduly protruding, and as you do 
 them, place them in a clean and suitably-sized stewpan. When you 
 have finished them, pour over them your curry sauce, and in this make 
 them hot when about to send to table. They should be dished in a 
 pile in the centre of the border of rice which you have prepared, taking 
 care the same is nice and hot before; and use all your curry sauce with 
 your pieces of fins. You will also need a dish of plain boiled rice, 
 which you have on a sieve. (The two fins should make two entrees.) 
 
 It would be wise to wet the cloth again; and see if it is nice and hot 
 before dishing it up for table. And when you have dished your curry 
 of turtle fins, do not pour the remaining sauce over till the dish is asked 
 for, when pour it over the turtle meat boiling hot, and send to table. 
 
 Now let me observe that I have purposely shown how parts of the 
 turtle can be used for entrees, and also for removes, as in the menu for 
 
444 CLEAR CONSOMMfi DE VOLAILLE EN TORTUE. 
 
 October we will give a turtle and venison dinner. We will now proceed 
 to show how turtle soup can be made in a much less elaborate manner , and 
 in a much less expensive way. 
 
 Clear Consomme de Volaille en Tortue a la Moderne.— 
 
 Make your clear gravy soup, as instructed in the opening pages of 
 this book, page 7. Having purchased six pounds of dried turtle 
 (take care it is the light coloured turtle , with no black parts among it), 
 place the same in cold water to soak all night. Order half a bunch of 
 basil, fresh and green, and the same of marjoram, and a little green 
 thyme, with one punnet of fresh champignons. Then carefully tie up 
 about half of each of the herbs into a bouquet. After this, having 
 washed and trimmed the champignons, cut up one half of them, put 
 them to boil in five pints of consomme; let these slowly simmer in 
 the soup. Then pour some boiling water over the turtle meat which 
 has been in soak all night, throwing away the water in which it had 
 been soaking. After a little while examine the turtle meat, to see it 
 it had been cooked sufficiently before it was dried, and if satisfactory n 
 this respect, place it again in cold water with a little ice; and if not 
 so, boil till tender the parts which need more boiling. After a few 
 minutes proceed to cut away any fibres or scaly parts, and cut the 
 meat into pieces one inch square. As you thus cut up the turtle 
 meat into pieces, place them in a clean pan with some cold water. 
 When finished put a little ice with it, and then proceed to make a 
 little quenelle meat from the fillets cut from the fowls, the bodies 
 of which were used to make your consomme of fowl. Make the 
 quenelle the same as for quenelles of pheasants, described at page 15, 
 and keep the quenelle firm. Make this into shape with two teaspoons, 
 using about half a teaspoonful of quenelle meat to make each one. 
 When you have made about a teacupful it will be sufficient, when they 
 should be placed in about one quart of boiling water, and kept hot in 
 the same, but not allowed to boil till they are sufficiently cooked, which 
 you can tell by their feeling quite firm. 
 
 Then with a perforated spoon remove them on to a hair sieve for the 
 present. Now prepare a few egg balls in the following manner :—Take 
 four yolks of hard boiled eggs which have boiled for ten minutes, 
 
calf’s kidney soup a la jardiniere. 
 
 445 
 
 and rub these together with a good tablespoonful of superfine flour, a 
 piece of butter about half the size of a walnut, and two raw yolks of 
 eggs, and a little bit of salt. These ingredients should be well rubbed 
 together with a palette knife, and then made into small egg balls about 
 half the size of an ordinary-sized marble, or mix it in the mortar. 
 
 Make them as follows :—Roll out the mixture into a long piece, dusting 
 the same with a little flour, then cut it into small pieces of the size 
 described, then roll each piece in the palm of your left hand with the 
 fingers of the right hand, using a little flour, and when all are finished 
 place them in a little boiling water, and let them boil for five minutes ; 
 when place alongside the quenelles for the present. Now look to your 
 consomme, and strain it through a soup-cloth into a kitchen-pan, then 
 place it into a suitably-sized stewpan (say one of three quarts). Then 
 strain on to a hair sieve your cut-up turtle meat, which add or place 
 in the soup, also your quenelles and egg balls, and let gently boil 
 together, removing any scum that may rise ; adding also a little salt and 
 sugar. Then taste the same, and if it tastes well, place in the larder, 
 leaving the cover partly aside till you require to make the soup hot for 
 table; and, at the last thing, place in the soup a half tumbler of 
 Madeira or good sherry. 
 
 This soup will be found to be, if care is taken in preparing the same, 
 a most excellent one, and about one-fourth less in price than what is 
 termed Real Turtle. And by adding a little very fresh fish, such as a 
 couple of soles, one haddock, and about 2 lbs. of turbot, you will obtain 
 the Real Turtle flavour, or very nearly so. 
 
 Calf’s Kidney Soup a la Jardiniere. —Place five pints of stock 
 in a stewpan to boil, and let it be one-half best stock, and the other 
 second stock. While this is coming to the boil, cut up in thin slices 
 one Spanish onion, the half of a head of celery, and the yellow part of a 
 carrot cut very thin, and a nice slice of ham. Take about six ounces 
 of butter, and fry these vegetables till they are of a light-brown colour. 
 Then stir into the same three good tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir well 
 together, then add, a little at a time, your five pints of stock. Take 
 care to mix it nice and smooth ; then bring it to the boil, and let it 
 simmer gently for about three parts of an hour. When it boils, 
 
44 6 CREAM OF VEAL SOUP A LA MODERNE. 
 
 add a rather large bouquet of green basil, marjoram, and green 
 thyme, which tie together. Afterwards, and while your soup is 
 progressing, cut up a fine calf’s kidney. Cut it up firstly in thin 
 slices about as thick as a penny ; then into dice about a quarter of 
 an inch square, and fry these in a saute-pan with a couple of spoonfuls 
 of clarified butter. They should be fried of a light-brown colour , 
 and attended to while frying. When they are done, pour off the butter, 
 and add the half of a half-pint of second stock, in which let them simmer 
 gently for about ten minutes, then place them aside. Look to your 
 soup, and skim off the butter which should rise to the top; and if it has 
 boiled for the specified time, strain it through a wire sieve into a 
 large kitchen-pan. Then have the stewpan washed out, and squeeze 
 the soup through a tammy cloth into the stewpan. After this, add the 
 prepared kidney, one half-pint of jardiniere roots, and two glasses of 
 sherry, and bring again to the boil for about ten minutes, removing any 
 scum which may show. Then mark it off in the larder in a soup bain- 
 marie or a suitably-sized stewpan till needed for dinner, when bring to 
 the boil and serve, adding a little salt and cayenne pepper. 
 
 Calf’s Head Soup en Kari a l’lndienne.—Having, on the day 
 previous, boiled the half of a calf’s head till tender, after being 
 duly trimmed and left in its own stock, proceed to make two quarts 
 of mullagatawny soup, after the same manner as at page 12 . Cut up 
 the prime part of the half-head in pieces one inch square, and place in 
 the soup. Then boil off half a pound of Carolina rice, looking over 
 and picking out any black specks or soiled grains, and washing the same 
 well before cooking it. It should be boiled till tender in three quarts of 
 water, then strained into a colander, and some clean hot water poured 
 over it. Then after it has been well drained, make a clean rubber wet ; 
 fold the same several times, place it on the top of the rice, which keep 
 in the screen till you dish it to send to table with the soup. 
 
 Note . — The best part of the calf’s head should be reserved for an 
 entree, and the inferior parts used for the soup. 
 
 Creme of Veal Soup a la Moderne. — Boil two fine veal 
 throatbreads the day previous to using them, and keep them in the 
 larder in a pan of water. Make also about three quarts of white stock 
 
calf’s tail soup a l’indienne. 
 
 447 
 
 from knuckles of veal, and nicely flavoured with stock-pot vegetables, 
 which place in a four-quart stewpan to boil. When it does so, cut up 
 sufficient of white roux, which place in a white kitchen-pan. Pour 
 over this one pint of your boiling white stock, and with a wire whisk work 
 it till quite smooth. Then add another pint, mixing well together; and 
 finally the other, which after being well mixed, let it boil slowly by the 
 side of the stove till the butter from the roux has risen to the top. 
 
 While this is taking place, chop very fine indeed half a handful of 
 parsley, from which the stalks have been picked. Then place it in a 
 pointed tin strainer, which hold in some boiling water with a little salt in 
 it for about one minute. Then remove it; dry the parsley in a cloth, and 
 place it on a plate. After which, bring out the two throatbreads, which 
 dry on a cloth, and cut them into slices about as thick as a penny, and 
 as much on the slant as possible, which will give a fuller surface than if 
 cut straight across. 
 
 When you have thus cut them, see that there are no blood-marks 
 showing in any part, but if so, remove the same. Then proceed to cut 
 the slices of sweetbread into square pieces of about a half of an inch. 
 Place these on the plate with the chopped parsley. These should now 
 be covered with another plate, and placed in the larder till needed. 
 Now cut about six fresh-gathered champignons into very thin slices ; 
 after which, skim off the butter and any scum which has risen to the 
 surface. Then place in the soup the sliced champignons, and let them 
 boil in it for about ten minutes; after which, add a half-pint of very 
 fresh cream, and when this boils, pass it through a tammy cloth by 
 squeezing or twisting it through the tammy, and not by rubbing. When 
 about to send it to table, place the blanched parsley and sweetbreads in 
 the tureen; then adding a little salt, pour the soup boiling hot into the 
 soup tureen, and send away, using only sufficient for the number of guests. 
 
 Calf’s Tail Soup a l’indienne.—Hold two calfs tails over a piece 
 of lighted paper and burn off any hairs left upon them. Then cut them 
 in one inch lengths in the thin parts, and half an inch in the thick part, 
 and place them in a stewpan to boil, having covered the same with 
 cold water, which should be well skimmed when it boils. They should boil 
 till tender, and while doing so, make two quarts of your best white stock 
 
448 consomm£ of pheasants with quenelles. 
 
 into mulligatawny soup, (for which see page 12) which, when duly pre¬ 
 pared, add the pieces of calf’s tail, taking great care they are not too 
 much cooked, let the tails boil in the soup before marking off in the 
 larder. Half a pound of plain boiled rice should be served with the 
 soup when it is sent to table. 
 
 Consomme of Calf’s Tail a la Jardiniere. — Take two quarts 
 of clear soup (prepared as at page 8 ), then cut out with your jardiniere 
 steel scoop two carrots, which have been scraped, by drawing the knife 
 towards you (any dark specks from the same being removed), also two 
 turnips which have been so peeled, that all the hard part of the turnip 
 has been removed. Then prepare half a pint of button onions 
 in the following manner : with your vegetable knife cut off the top 
 and bottom of each button onion, and when all are done, put them 
 into a pint of boiling water with a little salt in it. When the onions have 
 boiled in the same for a minute, strain them off, and then with your 
 fore-finger and thumb, remove the brown skin, also the next skin 
 from each onion, and then place them with round balls cut from your 
 carrots and turnips ; after which cut a small head of white celery in two 
 and from one half cut as many pieces as you can, about half an inch 
 long, and the same with the half of the white part of a leek, which should 
 be again cut in two, and then into lengths of half an inch long. 
 
 Then place the whole that you have prepared from the five vegetables 
 into a quart of boiling water, and let them boil for a couple of minutes 
 in the same, adding half a tablespoonful of salt. After which strain 
 them on a hair sieve, and throw sufficient cold water over to cool them. 
 Now place them in the two quarts of your best brown gravy, letting 
 them boil in the same till sufficiently cooked. The pieces of two calves’ 
 tails, after being cooked should be cut in inch lengths, also a little salt 
 and sugar should be now added, letting these boil in the soup and 
 attentively skimming the same, mark it off in one of your soup bain* 
 maries, and place in the larder till you have to make it hot for dinner. 
 By preparing the vegetables, as above instructed, you will obtain a most 
 excellently flavoured soup. 
 
 Consomme of Pheasants with Quenelles. — Take two very 
 fresh pheasants, and raising the skin from the breast, cut away the fillets, 
 
CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS WITH QUENELLES. 449 
 
 which place between two plates for the present. Then cut away the 
 black part from the back, after which chop up all that is left of the two 
 pheasants. Let me observe that they should be chopped up very fine, 
 and afterwards pounded in the mortar, till the bones and flesh are all 
 smashed up; then place the same in a three-quart stewpan, and beat 
 up three whole and very fresh eggs in a pint of water, which add to the 
 same, also two quarts of your best brown gravy. Mix these well together 
 with your wire whisk; let one of your assistants stir the same over the 
 hot plate till it comes to the boil. Then one onion, and half a head 
 of white celery, and also the yellow part of a carrot should be placed in, 
 it, also a bouquet of thyme and parsley; then let it very gently simmer 
 for an hour. 
 
 During this time prepare the fillets of pheasants into some very 
 firm quenelle, exactly after the instructions given at page 15, 
 
 but instead of making them into shape with two plated table¬ 
 
 spoons, use two teaspoons, and keep them small , but of the full 
 size of the teaspoon. Be most particular that the que?ielle is kepi firm, 
 and when they are finished, cook them the same as those at page 15. 
 When they are done, or sufficiently cooked, remove them from the 
 hot water with a perforated spoon on to a hair sieve for the present. 
 Now look to your consomm6 of pheasant which has been boiling 
 for the last hour, and if it shows quite bright as it should be, 
 
 and will be, then strain it very gently through a soup cloth into a 
 
 kitchen-pan. 
 
 After this, again place it in a suitably sized stewpan, adding the small 
 quenelles to the same, and let them boil in it, and be particular to remov v 
 any grease that may show on the top. A little thin kitchen paper will 
 greatly aid you to effectually do this, by tearing off about half a sheet, 
 and laying it on the surface of the soup, repeating this a few times will 
 soon remove the same. A little sugar and a little salt should be then 
 added, but be very careful not to use too much of either. Place it 
 in the larder, and when about to serve, open a half pint of preserved 
 young peas, which should be thrown into boiling water for a minute, 
 then strained off and put in the soup tureen, and the hot soup and 
 quenelles poured upon them and send away. 
 
 2 K 
 
450 
 
 CREME OF PHEASANTS A LA REINE. 
 
 Creme of Pheasants a la Reine. —Place two trussed pheasants 
 in a soup-pot with one quart of water, one onion, a carrot split, and 
 a head of white celery, and let them slowly boil, or rather let me say, 
 gently simmer for one hour. Then remove the pheasants on to a dish, 
 and let them become cold. Next strain the vegetables from the 
 gravy in which they have been boiling, and place them in a stewpan, 
 and skim off the fat that may show upon the surface ; then add two 
 quarts of best white stock, and then boil off half a pint of Carolina rice 
 till nearly tender, which put into your stock and let slowly boil for half 
 an hour, during v’hich time cut and pick all the white meat from the 
 bodies of the pheasants, and the best from the tw r o thighs, which take 
 care is free from bones. Then chop up the same quite fine, and after¬ 
 wards pound it in the mortar, and rub it through a wire sieve. When 
 it has been w r ell pounded, place it between two plates for a time. After 
 this examine the rice in the soup, and if it is quite soft, and will readily 
 and easily smash between the finger and thumb, cut in thin slices 
 eight freshly gathered champignons and place in the stewpan contain¬ 
 ing the rice. Also add the pounded white meat from the pheasants 
 which you have rubbed through the wire sieve, and also half a pint of 
 very fresh double cream. Be most particular that the cream shall be 
 quite fresh , if otherwise it would spoil your soup. 
 
 When these have all boiled together for about ten minutes, the soup 
 should be rubbed through a clean tammy on to a china dish, for which 
 two persons are necessary, each holding one end of the tammy cloth 
 gathered up, and held very firmly in the left hand, and each holding a 
 large wooden spoon in the right, and by placing a pint of soup in the 
 tammy, and rubbing steadily to and fro, the soup, or very nearly all, 
 will readily pass through the tammy. When it has been so passed, put 
 it in one of your soup bain-maries, and stand it in a stewpan half full of 
 boiling w r ater, and let it stand in this till it again becomes quite hot. 
 Then add a little salt, and see that it is right for thickness, and if so, 
 place it in the larder, leaving the cover partly open. When serving for 
 dinner , make it hot in the bain-marie case, and serve with it about half a 
 pint of croutons of bread cut in square dice about one-eighth of an inch 
 square, and fried in some clarified butter in a sautApan, of a light gold 
 
CLEAR GIBLET SOUB A LANGLAISE. 
 
 451 
 
 colour. They should be dished upon two ornamental dessert papers 
 and sent to table with the soup. 
 
 Consomme of Partridges a la Julienne. —This should be 
 prepared after the same process as that of the pheasants, using four 
 partridges instead of two, but keeping the quenelles only half the size as 
 those made from the fillets of pheasants ; cooking in the same a few very 
 nice and evenly cut Julienne roots, which, before using, should be boiled 
 for two or three seconds in some boiling water with half a teaspoonful 
 of salt in it. When thus blanched, strain the same in a pointed tin 
 sieve, and after blanching, they should be made cold by holding the 
 pointed sieve containing them in cold water for a couple of minutes ; 
 then place them in the soup (about a teacup full will be plenty) and let 
 them boil for a few minutes before adding the quenelles, which, when 
 added, place also in the soup one gill of good sherry, also a little salt. 
 When the soup again boils, skim it and place in the larder till you need 
 it for making hot. 
 
 Creme of Partridges a la Reine. —Cook four partridges, and 
 finish this soup in every way the same as for the creme of pheasants. 
 
 Consomme of Grouse a la Julienne. —Use three fresh grouse 
 the same as for the consomme of partridges, and finish in every particular 
 the same. 
 
 Creme of Grouse a la Windsor. —Use three grouse, and finish 
 the same as for the creme of pheasant a la Reine. 
 
 Thick 'Giblet Soup a l’Anglaise. —Take two sets of goose 
 giblets ; burn off the hair, and remove the stubble feathers. Cover 
 with water, and let boil till the gizzards are tender, which should be cut 
 in four before putting on to boil. While they are cooking prepare two 
 quarts of stock the same as for mock turtle, using one quart of best 
 and one quart of second stock, and after the soup is finished, use the 
 giblets instead of calf’s head to garnish the same, also the gravy from the 
 giblets. This soup should be made the same as mock turtle soup 
 (see page 99). The giblets should be carefully trimmed after they are 
 cooked and before putting them in the soup. Two glasses of sherry 
 should be added before serving the soup. 
 
 Clear Giblet Soup a 1‘Anglaise. —Take two quarts of best brown 
 
452 
 
 OYSTER sour A l’anglaise. 
 
 gravy, and cut up the same herbs as used in the thick giblet soup, or as 
 used for the mock turtle. Prepare the giblets as for the thick soup ; but 
 the gravy made by the giblets after being freed from any oil or fat that 
 shows upon the same, and allowed to become partly cool, should be 
 clarified by beating up two eggs with half a tumbler of water, and well 
 mixing the same in the gravy, and then stirring it till it boils. Then let 
 it gently simmer for about fifteen minutes, when it will be bright, and 
 should be strained through a soup-cloth, and added to the best gravy, 
 which you are preparing for the clear giblet soup, which should also now 
 be strained through the soup cloth, and the giblets looked over and 
 nicely trimmed, and added to same, placing both in a clean soup bain- 
 marie, adding a glass of sherry and about a teacupful of macedoine 
 roots. Then let the soup come to the boil, and be nicely skimmed. 
 After this, place it in the larder till needed for making hot, and before 
 serving season it with a little salt. 
 
 FISH SOUPS. 
 
 Oyster Soup a 1’Anglaise. — A fish stock should be prepared for 
 all kinds of fish soups somewhat in the following manner:—Cut the 
 fillets from a good haddock, but do not use the skin, only the bones 
 and the flesh • also one eel, and about six flounders. Let the eel be 
 skinned, and the heads removed from the flounders; also a couple of 
 skinned whitings. Let the fish be cut rather small, and, when all are 
 placed in a suitably sized stewpan, cover the same with water, say a 
 couple of inches above the fish. Then press down, and, when it boils, 
 let it be well skimmed. Then add to the same a couple of onions, one 
 head of white celery, and the yellow part of a couple of carrots, and a 
 good large bouquet of thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Let this stock be 
 allowed to boil very gently for about four hours. 
 
 Let me observe that the bones from all the fish should be used in the 
 stock, but avoid the skins and the head, with the exception of the 
 flounders. Let me also remark that every larder should have in the 
 same, and should never be without, a pan of white and brown roux or 
 thickening; for making which the fullest instructions have been given 
 at page n. Your fish stock having been duly prepared, and three 
 
OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 453 
 
 dozen fine oysters ordered, we will now proceed to make the oyster 
 soup, or give the instructions how to do so. 
 
 Oyster Soup.— Place three pints of your fish stock in a stewpan, 
 holding about three quarts, with one quart of best white stock, 
 on the hot-plate to boil as soon as possible. When it boils cut 
 up a good handful of white roux rather small, which place in a 
 white kitchen-pan over which pour one pint of your boiling stock 
 over the white roux. Then with a wire whisk, mix roux and stock 
 together, till it begins to show smooth ; then add another pint of boil¬ 
 ing stock and thoroughly mix together, stirring round and round till the 
 mixture shows as smooth as cream. Then add the remaining stock, 
 and when this has also been well mixed, pour the mixture back into the 
 stewpan, and stir it over the fire till it boils ; after which draw it to one 
 side of the hot-plate, where for a short time it can gently boil. 
 
 It should now be about the thickness of single cream, and if not so, 
 must be made so, either by adding a little stock if too thick, or by adding 
 a little more roux if not thick enough. The object in its being allowed 
 to boil slowly, is to get back the butter with which the roux was made. 
 By boiling slowly, this will rise to the top and can then be readily removed. 
 While this operation is taking place, put three dozen stewing oysters 
 on the fire in a stewpan, with about a wineglass of water, and let the 
 oysters boil in this for a few minutes, when remove them from the hot 
 plate to the dresser. Now, if to be obtained, cut up a dozen fresh cham¬ 
 pignons into very thin slices, and place them in the soup ; add also about 
 a half-tumbler of sherry; then strain the oysters from their liquor, 
 which also add to the soup. Allow this to continue boiling, and 
 while doing so, cut off neatly the darkest part of the beard from the 
 oysters and place the oysters in a quart kitchen-pan for the present. Then 
 see if the fat has risen on the top of the soup, and if so, skim it off, also 
 any scum which might show. Then add half a pint of very fresh double 
 cream, which should boil in the soup. Then see that you have a clean 
 white tammy cloth to hand, also a three-quart kitchen-pan. And now, with 
 the aid of an assistant, pass the soup, by what we term hoisting it , 
 through the tammy cloth ; this is done in the following manner :— 
 
 Place the tammy cloth over the kitchen-pan, and pour into the centre 
 
 2 K 2 
 
454 
 
 TURBOT SOUP A LA CARDINAL. 
 
 a pint of the soup. When one holding the tammy cloth in the hands 
 and slightly twisting it to the right, and. the other at the other end 
 twisting to the right also, the soup will readily pass through. And 
 again opening the tammy cloth, and putting more soup in the centre, 
 and twisting, and the same result will follow. Continue this until all 
 the soup has passed through ; after which season with a little salt and 
 cayenne pepper. Place it in a soup bain-marie, or a suitably-sized stew- 
 pan, and put it in the larder; but before doing so, pour about half-a- 
 pint over the trimmed oysters in the basin, and place both in the larder 
 till needed for making hot for dinner, when both should be placed in 
 the bain-marie case with hot water surrounding them, where they will 
 soon become thoroughly hot, but the oysters should only remain a 
 few minutes in the bain-marie before serving, or they will shrink in size. 
 When the soup is asked for to go to table, the oysters must be placed 
 first in the soup tureen, and hot soup poured upon them, and then sent 
 to table. 
 
 Turbot Soup a la Cardinal. — When a boiled turbot has been 
 served for dinner the day previous, the remains, if sufficient, will make 
 an excellent soup for en famille. This should be prepared as follows :— 
 Pick out the best pieces of turbot which are left, and then, removing the 
 head bones aside, place all the smaller pieces in a stewpan, with the 
 bones also, which should be chopped up rather small. To these add 
 about three pints of best white stock, two onions, one carrot cut in two, 
 one small head of white celery, and sufficient cold water to well cover 
 the remnants of turbot, also a bouquet of thyme and parsley ; 
 and let the stock be about one inch above the remnants of turbot, 
 and bring it to the boil as quickly as possible, and let it boil gently for 
 one hour. Then strain it and make it into soup. I expect you will 
 have about three pints of stock, which mix with about four good spoon¬ 
 fuls of white roux (cut up small with your knife), which mix the same as 
 for the oyster soup. Then let it simmer gently till the butter rises, 
 adding a few fresh champignons cut up very thin ; add half a pint of 
 fresh double cream. When serving, place the prime pieces of turbot in 
 the tureen, with a spoonful of very fresh parsley, which has been chopped 
 very fine and blanched in boiling water after it has been chopped. 
 
EEL sour A LA RICHMOND. 
 
 455 
 
 While the soup is progressing, rub about one gill of live spawn through 
 a hair sieve, with about a teaspoonful of water, and take the shells from 
 three dozen prawns, which for the present place aside till the soup is 
 nearly finished. Then when the butter has risen to the top, and been 
 removed, take about one pint, and mix with this the spawn which you 
 have rubbed through the sieve, stirring it well together as you do so. 
 Afterwards add it to the larger quantity which should give it a slight pink 
 or salmon tint, and finally add half a tumbler of sherry to the same. 
 Now twist it through a clean tammy cloth in the same manner as in¬ 
 structed for the oyster soup. It should be placed in a soup bain-marie 
 after passing, and placed in the larder till required to be made hot, which 
 should be done by placing it in the bain-marie case. After this, the pieces 
 of turbot you placed aside should be looked to and neatly trimmed, also 
 the prawns should be trimmed at one end and placed together between 
 two plates. When about to serve the soup, both prawns and pieces of 
 turbot should be placed ready in the soup tureen, and the soup poured 
 boiling hot over the same. Let me observe that this soup can be made 
 from what is called a small or chicken turbot when in a raw state, by 
 cutting out the fillets from the white side, and cutting these into neat 
 scollops to garnish the soup when they have been dressed, cutting up 
 the other part and making it into stock, the same as for the oyster 
 soup, and by finishing the same, adding only scollops of turbot and tails 
 of prawns for garnish instead of the oysters, and sending it to table a 
 slight pink tint instead of white. 
 
 Eel Soup a la Richmond.—Take two skinned eels, and fixing 
 them at full length on your cutting board with a couple of forks, cut off 
 the flesh of the fish from each side , keeping your knife as close to the 
 central bone as possible. Then divide them into one inch lengths, and 
 place these pieces in a little water and let them boil slowly till tender. 
 After which, having previously prepared a fish stock as directed for the 
 oyster soup, mix it the same as for the oyster soup (and about two 
 quarts), to which add some mushroom juice, and use brown roux instead 
 of white. Also if you can obtain a few fresh champignons, such will be 
 better than mushroom juice. Add also after the soup is thickened, and 
 is boiling, a large size bouquet of thyme and parsley, and about half a 
 
45 6 LISQUE OF LOBSTER A LA CARDINAL. 
 
 bottle of claret should be put in the soup; the bones from the eels 
 should be chopped up and added to the soup, and a pot of red-currant 
 jelly (a small pot). When these have gently boiled together for about 
 three quarters of an hour, any fat which shows on the surface, or any 
 semblance of scum, should be carefully removed. Then strain the soup in 
 the first instance through a wire sieve, and afterwards twist it through a 
 clean tammy-cloth into a clean stewpan. 
 
 Be as particular as possible to see the soup is of a nice medium thick¬ 
 ness, and now add a little salt and cayenne pepper, also two spoonfuls 
 of anchovy essence and the juice of a lemon, and then let it again boil; 
 nicely skim it, after which place it in the larder. 
 
 Then prepare three dozen tails of prawns, removing them from their 
 shells and slightly trimming them, also look over the pieces of eels 
 and trim any pieces which require it. Then place both the prawns and 
 pieces of the eels, in a small and clean stewpan, and strain a little of the 
 liquor in which the eels were boiled over them — sufficient to make them 
 hot. When the soup is to be made hot, place it in the bain-marie case, 
 also the garniture of prawns and eels. When required to be sent to 
 table with a perforated spoon, put the same in the soup tureen, and 
 pour the soup over them (which should be nearly boiling hot) and send 
 it to table. 
 
 Bisque of Lobster a la Cardinal.—Prepare a fish stock in the 
 same manner as for the oyster soup, and chop up very fine the inside of 
 the bodies of four small and very fresh lobsters, which add to the same, 
 and if any coral is found in them be particular to save the same, and 
 have it mashed and pounded with half its quantity of butter, and then 
 rubbed through a hair sieve. You will also require a gill of live spawn, 
 which should also be rubbed through a hair sieve, with a spoonful of 
 water, on to a plate. Take care what spawn adheres to the sieve is 
 removed with an iron spoon, and that the whole of it is carefully placed 
 in a small kitchen-pan and laid aside till needed. Your fish stock, 
 which should have been prepared the day previous to its being needed 
 for use, should now be mixed exactly the same as for the oyster soup, 
 taking care that it is not too thick, and also that it is not too thin. Also 
 let a good bouquet of thyme, parsley, and bayleaf be placed in the soup, 
 
BISQUE OF LOBSTER A LA CARDINAL. 
 
 457 
 
 and three parts of a tumbler of sherry and about a dozen freshly-gathered 
 champignons cut in very thin slices. When these items have all been 
 added, let the soup simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 There should also be added eight anchovies, or the fillets from the 
 same, after they have been washed and pounded in the mortar. 
 
 Then while the soup is progressing, take the meat from the lobster 
 shells as carefully as possible, and the following method is a good one. 
 Raise the large part of each claw on its edge, and in this position cut 
 through the shell by a gentle blow from your knife, given so as not to 
 injure the meat of the claw, and if it is nicely done you will find the 
 shell of the claw readily come in two, and the meat come out whole and 
 in one piece from the claw. If you hold the tail in a cloth and grip or 
 clasp it tightly, the tail of the claw will come out whole, and the other 
 parts of the claw can be cracked with the back of a large wooden spoon, 
 and the meat as readily be removed from the same. After this has been 
 done, the tails and the claws should be cut into small but neat scollops, 
 and placed between two plates, or in a stewpan would be better, as they 
 will, with a little stock added to them, more readily be made hot. When 
 this is done, let your board be cleared and the soup looked to. Then 
 carefully remove any grease that shows on the surface, and pass it in the 
 first instance through a wire sieve into a kitchen-pan. Then twist it 
 through a clean tammy-cloth into a clean stew-pan, and again place it 
 on the hot-plate to boil, adding a little cayenne pepper, and salt, and the 
 juice of a lemon. After this, place the live spawn, which was rubbed 
 through a hair sieve, in a quart stew-pan, also the pounded coral, and 
 mix with these about one pint of the hot soup, and well mix with a wire 
 whisk. When you have done so, add another pint of the hot stock, 
 mixing this well with the other, afterwards pour it into the stewpan 
 with the other soup. 
 
 It should now be a nice salmon colour, and if sufficiently palatable, 
 pour about a half-pint over the prepared scollops of lobster. Then mark 
 off in the larder. When it is time to make them hot (that is, the soup 
 and the scollops of lobster), place the same in the bain-marie case, and 
 let the soups stand in the hot water, which is in the same, for about one 
 hour. Then place the scollops in the same for about a quarter of an 
 
45^ 
 
 BOUILLIBASSE, OR PROVINCIAL SOUP. 
 
 hour. When serving for dinner place the scollops of lobster gently in 
 the soup tureen (so as not to break them), and pour the soup boiling 
 hot over the same, and send to table. 
 
 Note. —I am thoroughly aware that I use roux instead of rice, or 
 crusts of French rolls, to thicken these soups called “ Bisques.” Also 
 that I place the lobsters cut in scollops instead of attempting to rub it 
 through the tammy after the laborious operation of pounding the same, 
 which, in my humble opinion, is a very messy and stupid proceeding, 
 and I leave to the truly practical to judge which method is best. Let 
 me add there is nothing inexplicable in the word “ Bisque,” which, in 
 the French language, simply means bi'oth or soup. Furthermore, in my 
 method, there is no fear of the bisque curdling, which should be a con¬ 
 sideration in favour of my method. Then, again, in 'my instructions 
 for making roux or thickening, always use the very best flour, or what is 
 termed superfine flour, for, by doing so, you will find your soups and 
 sauces will thereby keep their consistency far better than by using an 
 inferior flour. 
 
 Bisque of Prawns a l’Essence. —When placing your fish on the 
 fire (as previously instructed) for making your fish stocky take care to 
 have ordered four dozen prawns, and having separated the bodies from 
 the tails (place the tails on the ice), pound the bodies in the mortar, 
 till they are all smashed, when add the same to the fish stock. When 
 duly prepared, and boiled the due time, strain it off, and thicken the 
 same as for the oyster soup, using white roux, and about one gill of live 
 spawn to give the soup, when finished, a slightly pink appearance or 
 salmon colour. Take care to use three parts of a tumbler of good sherry 
 and some fresh gathered mushrooms, or rather champignons, and finally 
 prepare the prawns by removing the shells from the tails and trimming 
 off the rough parts; then placing the same in a small stewpan with a 
 little of the soup with them, mark the soup and the garniture of the tails 
 of prawns in the larder, and make hot in the same manner as for the 
 bisque of lobster in the last page. 
 
 Bouillibasse, or Provincial Soup. —Prepare a fish stock as 
 for the preceding soups. Place two quarts on the fire to boil, and 
 while doing so, cut up four Spanish onions, which fry in half a pint of 
 
BOUILLIBASSE, OR PROVINCIAL SOUP. 
 
 459 
 
 salad oil till they are a nice brown colour. Then stir in a large-size 
 wooden spoonful of flour, which mix well together, then add three parts 
 of a pint of sherry, and after this add about three pints of your prepared 
 stock, which should be boiling and added about one pint at a time, and 
 mixed so that it becomes quite smooth. Then add four sliced shalots 
 and a good bouquet of thyme and parsley. When the oil has risen to 
 the top, and been skimmed off, the soup should be rubbed through the 
 tammy, like any other puree. Then again bring it to the boil; skim it, and 
 add a little seasoning, and mark it off. Then prepare two soles which 
 have been nicely filleted, and then cut into neat scollops, about one 
 inch long in the following manner :—arrange them on a saute-pan, 
 over which has been run a little salad oil; season them lightly with 
 white pepper and salt, and some chopped tarragon, parsley and chervil, 
 and place them in the oven for a few minutes ; when tender they will 
 do. Then pour off the oil, and add the juice of a lemon to the scollops, 
 and two dozen oysters, which have been stewed for a few minutes with 
 four tablespoonfuls of water; when this is done, the dark part of the 
 beard on each oyster should be cut away, when they should be added 
 to the fillets of soles and their liquor poured over them. 
 
 Then they should be marked off in a separate stewpan, with about 
 half a pint of the soup added to them. When needed to make the soup 
 hot, make the oysters and scollops of soles hot also, and these should 
 be poured into the soup tureen first, and the hot soup poured upon 
 them and sent away. Now regarding any other kind of fish soup, 
 whether for an invalid or those who wish for the like : Fiist of all make 
 a fish stock from turbot, salmon, trout, codfish, or sturgeon, and if you 
 can make it from one kind of fish, so much the better. But take care 
 to keep a portion of the fish used, after the soup is made, as a garniture 
 for the same, and prepare the stock for the soup as previously instructed 
 for oyster soup. 
 
460 
 
 NEW REGISTERED MOULDS, 
 
 FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 
 
 Directions for rise, by the Inventor, sent with each. 
 
 -M 1 ' ''i'.iiiiiii 
 
 
 1! .. 
 
 HUH ill ! Mill 
 
 SUNK TOP BORDER, WITH RAISED CENTRE. 
 
 BOMB MOULDS. 
 
 STEP MOULDS. 
 
 VARIOUS SIZES. 
 
 VARIOUS SIZES. 
 
 The above to be obtained from Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6, Moicomb Street, 
 
 Belgrave Square, London, S. IV. 
 
ECONOMICAL DINNERS. 
 
 MENU FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 (Say for November 3RD.) 
 
 (One Soup.) 
 
 Calf’s Tail a l’lndienne. 
 
 (Two Fish.) 
 
 Boiled Codfish, with Sauce of Oysters. 
 
 Saute of Fillets of Whitings, with Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 (Three Entrees.) 
 
 Cutlets of Pork. Sauce Robert. 
 
 Saute of Fowls a P Imperial. 
 
 Larks Farced aux Champignons. 
 
 (One Reniove.) 
 
 Roast Sirloin of Beef a I’Anglaise. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Wild Ducks. 
 
 Saute of Potatoes a la Franchise. 
 
 (One Remove.) 
 
 Plum Pudding a l’Anglaise. 
 
 (Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Two pains of Apricots a la Windsor. 
 
 Two Stewed Pears a P Essence. 
 
 (Tzvo Savoury Entremets.) 
 
 Talmouses au Parmesan. 
 
 Side 7 able — Vegetables in Season, Sauces , &c. 
 
 2 L 
 
462 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Sixteen pounds of soup meat, half beef and veal, and without bones : 
 two calves’ tails ; one prime cut of sirloin of beef, not more than twenty 
 pounds ; twelve bones of neck of pork, which must be with small 
 bones and of best quality. These to be in the kitchen by ten o’clock 
 on the morning of the 3rd. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 Four prime slices of codfish, about one pound and a half each; four- 
 dozen oysters for stewing ; four medium-sized whitings, filleted with the 
 bones; half a pint of picked shrimps. To be in the kitchen on the 
 morning of the 3rd. 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 One large old hen, for soup; two best quality fowls, for cutting 
 twelve larks, boned; one pound and a half of pork sausage meat; four 
 fine wild ducks. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 Twelve pounds of best potatoes ; three pounds of Brussels sprouts; 
 six cauliflowers ; one good dish of spinach; one dozen stewing pears ; 
 six lemons ; three heads of celery; six carrots ; twelve onions ; two 
 sticks of horseradish ; one basket of fresh-gathered champignons; eight 
 ripe tomatoes; three Seville oranges. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 Two pint canisters of puree of apricots; half a pound of Parmesan 
 cheese ; two ounces of Indian curry powder ; half a pound of Carolina 
 rice; two pounds of salt butter ; two pounds of fresh butter ; one 
 quart of very fresh cream ; one quart of milk ; one pound of raisins ; 
 one pound of currants; one pound of mixed peel; half a pound of 
 almonds ; one pound of moist sugar ; one pint canister of champignons 
 quarter of a pound of pied de veau gelatine ; two pounds of pounded 
 lump sugar ; two pound slice of raw ham. 
 
calf’s tail a lTndienne. 
 
 463 
 
 In still proceeding with our menus for economical dinners, it will be 
 seen at a glance that there is a very great reduction, not only in the 
 number of dishes, but also in the amount of labour required. Still, it is 
 my advice to proceed in the usual way with the stocks, both for soups and 
 sauces, and, having less soup meat by eight pounds, you will not need so 
 much soup stock or so much sauce. There being no jellies, no calf’s- 
 foot stock will be required: and, though you have only sixteen pounds 
 of soup meat, divide the same, and make one half into brown stock and 
 the other into white. When these are prepared, look to the list of 
 sauces, and make sufficient white sauce and sufficient brown sauce to 
 serve your needs ; also sufficient gravy for what you require. 
 
 I shall therefore proceed with my instructions as if your foundation, 
 sauces were made and ready for use. You need not be afraid, at this 
 generally cool season of the year, of being too forward. Following the 
 order of the menu as regularly as possible, we shall commence with the 
 soup. 
 
 Calf’s Tail a lTndienne. —With a piece of lighted paper, burn off 
 any hairs which may show upon the calves’ tails, after which cut them 
 up in lengths one inch long—that is to say, the thin part of the tails ; 
 and cut the thick part into half-inch lengths. Then place them in a 
 suitably-sized stewpan, and let the water in which they are to be boiled 
 cover the tails about two inches. When they boil, take care to skim 
 them well, after which let them gently simmer till they are tender. 
 
 During this time, make three quarts of mulligatawny soup, as 
 described at page 12. When it has been freed from grease, or the 
 butter which will rise from the roux, and has been passed through 
 a sieve, and finally through a tammy cloth into a suitably-sized stew- 
 pan, let it again come to the boil. Then look to your calves’ tails, 
 and be particular they are not overdone; and, when tender, place them 
 on a hair sieve. Then look carefully over them, and remove any little 
 speck upon them; after which boil off the pound of Carolina rice in 
 four quarts of water, with about a tablespoonful of salt, and be particular 
 that it is strained off when tender, which you can readily tell by pressing 
 two or three grains between your finger and thumb. If they will easily 
 smash by the pressure brought to bear upon them, the rice should be 
 
464 
 
 SLICES OF PLAIN-BOILED CODFISH. 
 
 then strained off into a hair sieve, and some clean and nearly boiling 
 water poured over it. Then let it stand in the sieve on a dish for an 
 hour or two. 
 
 Let me here remark, when you are boiling off rice, either to serve 
 with a curry or soup, it is positively necessary to give it your best atten¬ 
 tion, and not to overcook it or undercook it; when you think it is nearly 
 done, not to leave till it has been strained off and some hot water poured 
 over it. You can make hot by placing it in the screen and covering it 
 over with a damp cloth, or placing it again in boiling water before send¬ 
 ing it to table. For a dinner of sixteen or eighteen persons you will 
 require two small dishes, which should be nice and loose and partly dry 
 when dished. 
 
 The Soup.—Now let us prepare to finish the same ; and when it 
 boils, and you see it is of the right consistence, add the tails to it, and 
 let them boil in the soup for two or three minutes, and add a little salt 
 to it. If nice and palatable, then mark it off in the larder till you are 
 ready to again make it hot to send to the table, when it should be 
 sent boiling hot to table, with two small dishes of rice, which should be 
 also hot. 
 
 THE FISH. 
 
 Slices of Plain-boiled Codfish.—These should be tied up 
 tightly after placing a skewer through each slice. The string should be 
 tied round the slices, and placed in the larder till you are ready to boil 
 them, and when that time has arrived a fish-kettle of boiling water should 
 be re*ady, with a fish-slice in it. In this, after placing in the same a good 
 handful of salt, place in the same the slices of codfish, when bring again 
 to the boil as quickly as possible ; then let boil for about fifteen minutes. 
 Next, remove it from the hot-plate, keeping it closely till you dish it up. 
 
 It should be dished on a napkin, after being lifted on the strainer 
 into a large dish, when the strings should be carefully removed, and 
 with a fish-slice arrange them on the napkin. Then place a little parsley 
 round them and the cover over them, and send to table with two sauce¬ 
 boats of oyster sauce, which should be very hot (for which see list of 
 sauces on page 467). 
 
CUTLETS OF PORK. 
 
 465 
 
 Saute of Fillets of Whitings, with Shrimp Sauce. —Cut 
 
 the fillets of whitings evenly in two, which will give you sixteen half¬ 
 fillets. These should be slightly trimmed, so as to make them of the 
 same size; then they should be placed on a dish and a little flour 
 sprinkled over them, so as to slightly mask each one with flour. 
 
 Then crack three eggs in a basin, and be attentive to smell each one, 
 for fear either one should be musty. When all right, sprinkle a little 
 salt over them and beat them well together, after which, with your egg¬ 
 brush dipped in the eggs, mask over each half-fillet with egg, which do 
 by placing two or three of the half-fillets on a plate. Then with your 
 brush dipped in the eggs, egg over on each side of the half-fillets, and 
 as you do them place them into some finely and freshly made bread 
 crumbs and cover them with the crumbs, patting them with your hand 
 to make the crumbs adhere to the same. Do the same with the other 
 half-fillets. Then put them into shape with your knife, and, having 
 prepared some clarified butter, take a suitably-sized saut6-pan which will 
 hold all the half-fillets of whitings, then pour the butter over the surface, 
 and on this arrange the half-fillets. When about to serve them for 
 dinner, place the saute-pan on the hottest part of the hot-plate, and fry 
 them of a light brown colour on each side, then dish them on some 
 potato paste (for which see page 63). They should be dished after the 
 manner of cutlets, in the centre of a flat dish, and a prawn or shrimp 
 sauce poured in the centre and round the half-fillets, and then covered 
 and sent to table. (See list of sauces at page 467.) 
 
 THE ENTREES. 
 
 Cutlets of Pork, Sauce Robert.—Saw off the chine-bones from 
 the best ends of the ribs of two necks of pork, and, if needed, cut off the 
 lops of the ribs so as to keep the cutlets of the proper size. They should 
 be cut with a bone in each, and trimmed so as to be uniform in size. 
 Then crack two whole eggs and one yoke. Over which sprinkle a little 
 salt, and beat them together. After this, with an egg-brush dipped in this 
 egg, mask over the cutlets (on each side) placing two or three at a time 
 on a plate for this purpose. 
 
 2 M 
 
4 66 
 
 LARKS FARCED AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 
 
 According as you finish them, dip them in some fresh-made bread¬ 
 crumbs, patting them with your hands to make them adhere. When all 
 are bread-crumbed, pat them in shape and arrange them on a saute-pan, 
 letting the bones slope to the right as you do them, (But before doing 
 so, pour some clarified butter on the saute-pan.) When about to pre¬ 
 pare them for dinner, place the saute-pan on the hottest part of the hot¬ 
 plate, and fry them of a light brown colour on each side. They should be 
 placed on a cloth or piece of paper, to absorb any butter that might 
 adhere to them. 
 
 After which, dish them on a nice border of potato paste, dishing them 
 on the right (the bones pointing from you, and gradually come round to 
 the left); pour the Robert sauce part in the centre and the remainder 
 round the cutlets, just before sending them to table. (For Robert sauce 
 see page 75.) 
 
 Saute of Fowls a Flmperial. —Cut up two best-quality fowls 
 and saute them in the same manner as for the saute of fowls a l’lndienne 
 (see page 18), and place them in about three parts of a pint of imperial 
 sauce prepared with a puree of tomatoes, or fresh ones (for which see 
 page 125); about eight truffles cut up very thin can be used in this 
 sauce (if approved) just before sending to table. 
 
 Larks Farced aux Champignons.—Mix three chopped truffles 
 and a few fresh mushrooms also chopped with one pound and a half of 
 pork sausage meat (which has been previously pounded and rubbed 
 through a wire sieve). Then divide this into sixteen equal parts, in 
 which place sixteen boned larks, then make them into nice oval shapes, 
 cutting off the legs. After this arrange them in a circle and place over 
 a few slices of very thinly-cut fore bacon. Add also a few spoonfuls of 
 second stock, and place them in an oven of moderate heat (that is to say 
 a little before the dinner hour). About fifteen minutes should cook them 
 if the oven is sufficiently hot: you can tell when they are done by pressing 
 them with the finger and thumb. If they feel quite firm , you may be 
 certain they are sufficiently cooked. They should then be dried on a 
 cloth, and placed afterwards on a clean saute-pan, and should be glazed, 
 and again placed in the oven to dry the glaze. Then glaze them lightly 
 again, till they look bright and glossy, when they should be dished neatly 
 
HORSERADISH SAUCE FOR SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 46J 
 
 \ 
 
 in a pile in the centre of the entree dish. The mushrooms should be 
 piled up in three piles round them, and the sauce poured boiling hot 
 round them at the last, or just before sending them to table. 
 
 LIST OF THE DINNER SAUCES. 
 
 Oyster Sauce, for Codfish, one pint and a half. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce, for Fillets of Whiting, one pint. 
 
 Robert Sauce, for Pork Cutlets, half a pint. 
 
 Imperial Sauce, for Saute of Fowls, three quarters of a pint. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce, for Sirloin of Beef, half a pint. 
 
 Sauce Beggarrade, for Wild Ducks, three quarters of a pint. 
 
 Brandy Sauce, for Plum Pudding, one pint and a half. 
 
 Butter Sauce for Cauliflowers, one pint. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. —See page 23, and finish the sauce as therein 
 instructed. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. —Take three parts of a pint of veloute sauce. Add 
 to this about half a gill of live spawn rubbed through a hair sieve, with 
 a tablespoonful of water, and one tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, and 
 the juice of half a lemon, and let these boil in the sauce, and if not 
 quite thick enough, mix in a little roux to make it of the right con¬ 
 sistence. Then, after it has boiled for a couple of minutes, pass it 
 through a pointed tin strainer. Then stir in a pat of butter, after which 
 wash the picked shrimps in some cold water, when dry them in a cloth ; 
 and examine to see there is no part of the shells or outsides among 
 them, and put them in the sauce, and mark off in a bain-marie. 
 
 Robert Sauce for Pork Cutlets. —See page 75 for this sauce, 
 and prepare it in all particulars as therein instructed. 
 
 Imperial Sauce for Saute of Fowl. —Prepare this also as 
 instructed at page 125. But let me observe you can obtain fresh 
 tomatoes nearly all the year round, so that you can use fresh tomatoes 
 for the sauce, should you prefer them. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce for Sirloin of Beef. —Grate a stick of 
 
 horseradish as fine as possible, and mix with it about three parts of 
 
 half a pint of cream, with three tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, a little 
 
 2 M 2 
 
463 
 
 ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 
 
 pepper and salt, and a spoonful of fresh-made mustard. Mix well 
 together, and serve in a sauce-boat, with the roast beef. 
 
 Sauce Bigarade, for Wild Ducks.—Prepare this sauce as 
 instructed at page 25. 
 
 Brandy Sauce for Plum Pudding.—Peel a lemon very thin, 
 and boil it in a pint of water, in which place half a pound of sugar. 
 While boiling, mix three tablespoonfuls of arrowroot with about one 
 wineglassful of cold water, to which add about the same quantity of the 
 boiling water with the lemon peel and sugar in it, after which mix the 
 two together, and let boil for a couple of minutes. Then place it in a 
 bain-marie, adding about half a teaspoonful of bishop (which is burnt 
 sugar with a little water added, and is to give it a rich brown colour). 
 
 Finally, add one gill of brandy, and leave the lemon-peel in the sauce 
 till the sauce has to go to table with the pudding, when remove the 
 same, and send it in two sauce-boats to table. 
 
 THE FIRST COURSE REMOVE. 
 
 Roast Sirloin of Beef, and Yorkshire Pudding.—Trim and 
 skewer the sirloin for roasting, cutting away the piece of gristle which 
 runs along the thick end just under the skin. Remove also a great 
 part of the suet, which you can use in the pudding. The few rough 
 bones which are found at the thick end should be cut away. It will 
 take three hours to roast, and take care it is put down to a good fire from 
 the commencement, but not too close to the same, and that it is well 
 basted and attended to. A Yorkshire pudding should be served with 
 the roast beef, made in the following manner : one pound of flour, eight 
 eggs, and one quart of milk. 
 
 Crack the eggs one at a time, smelling each one as you crack them, 
 for fear any should be musty ; then sift the flour through a wire sieve. 
 Beat the eggs well together , and having placed the flour in a kitchen-pan, 
 pour the eggs on the flour, adding about half the milk, mix gently to¬ 
 gether, adding the remainder of the milk as you proceed, also about half 
 a teaspoonful of salt. When it has been well mixed together, strain it 
 through a pointed strainer, and about an hour and a half before dinner 
 
PLUM PUDDING A L’ANGLAISE. 
 
 469 
 
 place an oblong tin dish under the piece of beef, and let the fat drop 
 into the same. Or, pour some of the fat in the dripping-pan, and then 
 pour your pudding into the tin dish upon the fat, and place it again 
 under the beef for about half an hour, after which the pudding should 
 be placed in the oven and baked of a light-brown colour. When send¬ 
 ing it to table, it should be cut up in pieces about one inch and a half 
 square, and dished in a pile on two dishes, with a little salt sprinkled 
 over it, and then sent to table with the beef. 
 
 The Vegetables . —These, consisting of Brussels sprouts, cauli¬ 
 flowers and spinach, w r ith plain boiled potatoes, should be now sent to 
 table, masking the cauliflowers with the butter sauce ; mixing also with 
 the spinach a little glaze, a pat of butter, also a little Espagnol sauce, 
 some grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. 
 
 The Sirloin of Beef, when sending to table, should have some 
 best gravy sent on the dish with it, and should be dished on a well-dish. 
 A good pile of horseradish should be placed on the fat part of the beef, 
 and two boats of horseradish sauce served with it. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE ROAST. 
 
 These consist of four wild ducks, and should be sent to table with 
 plain gravy under them. They should be put down to roast about half 
 an hour before the dinner hour ; they should be sent to table slightly 
 underdone , with the bigarade sauce in two sauce-boats, to be served 
 with them. 
 
 THE SECOND COURSE VEGETABLE. 
 
 Saute of Potatoes a la Franeaise.—For preparing and cooking 
 the potatoes a la Franeaise, see page 31, under the heading of 
 Vegetables. They should be served with the wild ducks. 
 
 SECOND COURSE REMOVES. 
 
 Plum Pudding a l’Anglaise. — One pound of suet, one pound of 
 raisins, one pound of currants, one pound of mixed peel (orange, lemon, 
 and citron), half a pound of almonds, eight eggs, two nutmegs grated, 
 
4/0 
 
 PLUM PUDDING A L’ANGLAISE. 
 
 and two lemons grated, one pound of fresh-made bread crumbs, half a 
 pound of flour, and half a pound of sugar. 
 
 Chop the suet fine, and place it in a four-quart kitchen-pan ; then 
 wash the currants in a little luke-warm water, and place them to get dry 
 in the screen, and while doing so, stone the raisins, and place them with 
 the suet. Then cut up the mixed peel in thin pieces about three quarters 
 of an inch long, and place them also in the kitchen-pan with the suet. 
 After which grate two fragrant lemons, also two nutmegs, and mix these 
 in the pan with the suet, also half a pound of sugar and the same quantity 
 of flour, with the one pound of bread crumbs. 
 
 Now carefully crack the eggs into a kitchen-pan and smell each one, 
 and crack each in a small pan separately before adding it to the others. 
 The currants should be now rubbed in a cloth, and afterwards carefully 
 looked over, to see if any stones are among them. 
 
 A very good plan by which to detect the stones is, to sprinkle them a 
 few at a time on a clean baking-sheet, when, as they fall, if a stone is 
 among them you will hear it fall on the baking-sheet, and by this means 
 you will be enabled to readily detect the stones among the currants ; 
 and when all have been thus tested, place them with the other ingre¬ 
 dients. Then beat up the eight eggs which you have broken with a 
 wire whisk for a couple of minutes. 
 
 Having well mixed all the pudding ingredients together, then stir 
 in the eggs, adding a little milk ; and when you see the mixture will ad¬ 
 here together, butter two three-pint pudding basins with clarified butter 
 (not sparing the butter), then fill them with the pudding, and tie over 
 each a pudding-cloth as tightly and securely as possible. Then gather 
 up the ends of the cloth, and tie them securely over the top. After this, 
 select an oval braizing kettle, and, folding a sheet of paper lengthways 
 four times over, stand the pudding basins on this, and place sufficient 
 hot water in the braizing-pan to come three parts up the basin. Let 
 the puddings boil in this for three hours, taking care that they are kept 
 constantly boiling. 
 
 Let me here remark— What is there in a plum pudding which requires 
 longer boiling than the time I have specified? Nearly all the ingre¬ 
 dients are eatable before they are made into a pudding, and I cannot 
 
TALMOUSES AU PARMESAN. 471 
 
 help stating that it is a stupid proceeding to boil it longer than the time 
 I have mentioned. 
 
 When sending the puddings to table, serve them on two separate 
 dishes, and divide the sauce between them by pouring half round each 
 pudding; and in turning them out it is wise to pass a thin-bladed knife 
 round each pudding, keeping the blade of the knife close to the basin ; 
 and also to let the puddings remain in the basins after they are taken 
 from the water in which they were boiled, for about five minutes before 
 turning them out. 
 
 THE SWEET ENTREMETS. 
 
 Pains of Apricots a la Windsor. 
 
 Stewed Pears a TEssence. 
 
 Pains of Apricots a la Windsor. —To prepare the pains of 
 apricots, and finish the same, see page 58, all particulars in reference to 
 these excellent sweets being there given. 
 
 Stewed Pears a l’Essence. —The full particulars for stewed 
 pears will be found at page 175, and they should be prepared according 
 to the instructions given there. 
 
 Talmouses au Parmesan.— Prepare half a pound of puff paste in 
 the same way as for vol-au-vent cases, at page 149. Keep the paste, 
 when finished, in the cool, covered over with a damp cloth till you are 
 ready to use it. Then make the talmouse mixture as follows : Place 
 one gill of milk in a stewpan with two ounces of butter. Then mix four 
 ounces of superfine sifted flour with another gill of milk; it should be 
 mixed very smooth, and strained through a pointed tin sieve into a 
 pint kitchen-pan. 
 
 After this, place the other gill of milk with the two ounces of butter 
 on the hot-plate to boil, and when it does so, stir in the other gill of 
 milk (which you have mixed with the four ounces of flour), and stir it 
 in on the hot-plate till it has nicely thickened. Then stir in three v r hole 
 eggs, one at a time, which should be cracked separately and examined 
 to see if they are quite fresh ; and when all are stirred in, let it remain 
 for the present. 
 
 Next grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and stir into the mixture 
 
472 
 
 TALMOUSES AU PARMESAN. 
 
 a teaspoonful of fresh-made mustard, also a little cayenne pepper, and 
 the two ounces of Parmesan cheese. Then select twenty small-sized 
 tartlet tins, and, having seen they are quite clean, arrange them on a 
 baking-sheet. 
 
 Now roll out your half-pound of puff paste about as thick as a two- 
 shilling piece, and dust a little flour over and under it. Then with a 
 suitable fluted tin cutter, cut out as many pieces as you have tartlet tins. 
 Then turning the cut-out round pieces of paste upside down, place one 
 piece in each tartlet-tin. They should be placed in the tins as neatly 
 and as evenly as possible, and the top edge squeezed up a little above 
 the rim of each tartlet tin. Then whip up two whites of egg to a firm 
 snow, and stir these with the talmouse mixture; they should be lightly 
 but well mixed in. Then with a plated dessert spoon place a portion 
 about as big as a walnut in each of the twenty tartlet moulds, over 
 which sprinkle a little grated Parmesan cheese, and bake them in an oven 
 of good heat, but not rash. And you must bear in mind these are the 
 last two dishes to be served for the dinner. 
 
 If you place them in the oven after the soup and fish have been served, 
 you will time them to perfection, so as to be nicely baked at the moment 
 you require them. They should be dished on two small dishes or plates 
 upon dessert papers, and sent to table as hot as possible. 
 
 Thus , once again , we bring our dinner to a conclusion , believing that, 
 with the aid of the instructions given , it would prove almost an impossi¬ 
 bility for any cook possessing a little practical knowledge to fail in sending 
 the dinner properly to table ; and with these remarks we shall proceed to 
 give descriptions of other dishes which we have not yet described, both 
 of entrees and entremets. All kinds of game being now in full season, 
 we shall proceed to give our selections from the same. 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES OF GAME. 
 
 Petits Cremes of Pheasants a la Financiere. 
 
 Petits Cremes of Pheasants au Gratin Sauce aux Truffes. 
 Salmi of Pheasants h l’Essence. 
 
 Curry of Pheasants a l’lndienne. 
 
PETITS CREMES OE PHEASANTS. 
 
 473 
 
 Petits Cremes of Pheasants a la Financiere. —Prepare some 
 clarified butter (about half a pound), and select eighteen plain dariole 
 moulds, which be particular to have thoroughly clean; and when your 
 clarified butter is partly cold, work it with your butter brush till it begins 
 to show white. Then slightly warm it again (just for a minute); then 
 smoothly and well butter the eighteen dariole moulds, and arrange them 
 on a small baking-sheet. After which, chop up two truffles rather fine, 
 and neatly sprinkle some of the same over the bottom of each dariole 
 mould, when place them aside for the present. 
 
 Next take two very fresh and fine pheasants prepared for cutting. 
 Then run your knife through the skin which covers the breast, and 
 remove the same to the right and left; then cut through the fillets as 
 closely as you can to the breast-bone, and slanting your knife slightly, 
 remove the upper and under fillets, which form the right and left of the 
 breast, also any remaining part of -white meat thereon showing. Then 
 turn the carcass over and cut off the quarters (comprising the leg and 
 thigh), and serve both the pheasants in the same manner. 
 
 Then place the white meat on one plate, and that which comes from 
 the quarters on another plate : I refer to that which you cut from the 
 legs and thighs. Then cut up all the bones with your chopping-knife as 
 small as possible. Place them in a quart stewpan, cover the same with 
 a pint of the best white stock, and bring it to the boil as soon as you 
 can, and place in it a bouquet of thyme and parsley, as well as six 
 shalots cut up, also a little celery and the yellow part of a carrot. When 
 it has been well skimmed, leave it where it will gently boil till you need 
 the same. 
 
 Now we will return to the flesh of the pheasants, and having a clean 
 cutting-board before you, scrape off from the sinew's all the meat or flesh 
 you can obtain, which place upon a clean plate. Then proceed to cut the 
 fillets in two, and scrape off all the white flesh you can, holding one end 
 of the fillet down upon your cutting-board, and scraping off the flesh 
 with a knife, which should be in your right hand, till all that remains is 
 the thin skin. When, in this manner, you have obtained all the flesh 
 that is possible from the two pheasants, place it in the mortar (which 
 should be very clean). The flesh should be thoroughly pounded, then 
 
474 
 
 PETITS CREMES OF PHEASANTS. 
 
 rubbed through a clean wire sieve, and removed as you rub it through 
 on to a clean plate. When you have obtained all that is possible, scrape 
 out any part left in the mortar, and wipe out the same, and replace all 
 which you have rubbed through the wire sieve again in the mortar, and 
 sprinkle a little salt and cayenne pepper over it. 
 
 Then take about one pint and a half of very fresh double cream, and 
 add about one gill, which gently but w r ell mix in w r ith the pheasant. 
 After this add another gill, and mix this in well also, and so on till you 
 have used a pint of the cream. Then place a tablespoonful in one of 
 the buttered darioles (place it level in the mould). Then place about 
 one gill of hot water in a pint stewpan, which place on the hot-plate to 
 boil, and in this stand your dariole in which you have placed a little of 
 your cream of pheasant. Let this gently boil for a few' minutes, wfflen 
 test it by placing your finger upon it. If in your opinion it feels too firm, 
 then you can with confidence use more cream, and the point of consis¬ 
 tence you should arrive at is that it should be a very light but compact 
 body —say, a little firmer than a baked custard pudding. 
 
 So use your own judgment, and use enough cream out of the other 
 half-pint to bring it to the point of satisfaction you desire. And this 
 settled, place the cream, or say about half the cream of pheasant you 
 have prepared, in a linen bag with a tin pipe tied in the same , which at the 
 point should be half an inch in diameter. Then squeeze the cream of 
 fowl into the dariole moulds which you have prepared and garnished, 
 also the one which you have used, which must be buttered again, and a 
 little more truffle placed in it. And let me remark, it is wise to fill only 
 half the dariole moulds, which will enable you to see if you have enough 
 to fill all the moulds to the brim, and if so (and I think you should 
 have), let them be so filled. Then arrange them on a couple of rounds 
 of paper in a braizing-pan or deep saute-pan which will hold them. 
 Place a round of buttered paper on the top, and place them in the 
 larder till you are ready to cook them for dinner. In the meantime 
 prepare the sauce and the ragout needed to garnish the creams of 
 pheasants. 
 
 So strain off the stock from the bones of pheasants, and be particular 
 to see how much you have, and mix the same wuth a little white roux 
 
PETITS CREMES OF PHEASANTS. 
 
 475 
 
 (the quantity of sauce you will require is one pint, which will prove 
 enough for the two entrees). So, if you have not quite enough from the 
 bones of pheasants, add more white stock to make up the quantity, and 
 mix it when it boils with three spoonfuls of white roux, and let it steadily 
 boil on the fire. While doing so, open a pint tin of preserved champig¬ 
 nons, and add the juice to the sauce, which should be a little thicker 
 than single cream. 
 
 Now place the tin of mushrooms in a quart stewpan, and open a 
 small bottle of truffles, also a bottle of cockscombs. Cut the truffles in 
 slices, which add to the mushrooms, and stand the bottle with the cocks¬ 
 combs in some hot water, to melt the stock which is with them, and 
 when melted let it be added to the truffles and mushrooms. Then turn 
 out the combs upon a sieve, and if any portion requires to be cut away 
 do so. Then add them to the mushrooms and truffles, and they are 
 ready. Now look to your sauce, and remove any scum or butter that 
 has risen on the top, and pour it into a two-quart stewpan and stir it 
 over the fire till reduced to the consistency of double cream, when add 
 about a gill of double cream to the same, and when they have boiled 
 together, squeeze through a tammy cloth into a clean quart stewpan, and 
 add a little salt and a very small quantity of cayenne pepper. When 
 your sauce and ragout is ready, which should be placed in a bain-marie 
 case containing hot water, and in this will, or should, become sufficiently 
 hot for your purpose if placed there one half-hour before it is needed. 
 
 We will now suppose it is time to cook the petit creams of pheasants, 
 so place them on the hot-plate with about a pint of hot water round the 
 darioie moulds, and let them gently simmer for ten or fifteen minutes ; 
 when try them by pressing your finger upon them , and if quite frm, 
 they will do. Then remove them from the fire, and let them settle down 
 for a few minutes ; when they should be, a few at a time, turned on to 
 a plate, to let any butter or moisture run from them, when they should 
 be placed on their entree dishes in a circle, and placed to keep hot in 
 the screen covered over with the entree dish covers. Then strain off 
 the ragout in a pointed tin strainer, after which, dry it on a cloth, when 
 it should be neatly arranged in the centre of the darioles. Then the 
 sauce should be seen to, and if of the right thickness and very hot, it 
 
476 
 
 CREMES OF PHEASANTS AU GRATIN. 
 
 will do. And instantly they are asked for, divide the sauce, pouring 
 half in another stewpan; and neatly pour one half round one entree 
 with a little over the ragout, and the other half round the other with a 
 little over the ragout, and placing the covers on them, send them to 
 table. 
 
 Cremes of Pheasants au Gratin Sauce aux Truffes.—Pre¬ 
 pare two pheasants into cream of pheasants exactly as above, and place 
 the bones on the fire for sauce also, as above. Then nicely butter 
 twenty tartlet moulds of the same size as was done with the dariole 
 moulds. Then fill them with the cream of pheasants up to the top, and 
 with your knife make them level on the top, and arrange them on 
 a baking-sheet, and place them in the oven, which should not be 
 rash, but of good sound heat. You must watch them while in the 
 oven, for they will require only about six minutes to cook, and directly 
 they feel firm to the touch they will do. 
 
 Then remove them from the oven, and place them in the larder to 
 become quite cold, when they should be removed from the tartlet tins 
 and placed on to a china dish ; when about three parts of a half¬ 
 quartern loaf should be made into bread crumbs (which should be as 
 fine as possible). After this, crack three whole eggs with three yolks, 
 and place them in a kitchen-pan. Be very particular to smell each one, 
 for fear any one should be musty. Mix a little salt with them, and beat 
 them up together with a wire whisk. After which, dip each one in a 
 little sifted flour, and place them on a dish as you do them. When the 
 twenty are done, egg them over, one or two at a time, on a plate with 
 your egg-brush, and as you do them, place them among the bread 
 crumbs till you have done half the number, then pat them between your 
 hands to cause the bread crumbs to adhere, then put them into shape 
 with your knife, and sprinkle a few bread crumbs on a dish, and 
 arrange what you have finished on the same. Then proceed to do the 
 remainder in the same way. And when finished, place them in the 
 larder till you are ready to serve them, when they should be fried in 
 clean hogs’ lard in the following manner : Place five of them in a wire 
 frying-basket at a time, and when your lard is nice and hot and at the 
 proper frying point (which you can readily tell by placing a piece of 
 
CURRY OF PHEASANTS A LA MODERNE. 
 
 477 
 
 crumb of bread in the same, and if that will fry of a light-brown colour, 
 you may be sure the fat is ready for frying) ; then submerge the frying- 
 basket in the hot fat, and when the creams of pheasant show of a light- 
 brown colour, place them very carefully on a wire sieve, which should 
 be placed on one side of the dripping-pan to keep hot, and then proceed 
 forthwith to finish the others in the same manner. They should be 
 placed in a circle in two entree dishes (plain on each dish), and a pint of 
 young peas preserved in a canister, and which have been placed in boil¬ 
 ing water for a couple of minutes, and then strained off and placed in a 
 stewpan with a pat of butter, and a little sugar and salt, and tossed in 
 the same. Then half of the peas should be placed in the centre of 
 each dish, and one pint of sauce a l’imperial divided between them, and 
 serve. (For sauce a himperial see page 125.) 
 
 Curry of Pheasants a la Moderne. —Having previously roasted 
 two fresh pheasants, and which have become quite cold, cut them neatly 
 and evenly into nine pieces each : two pieces from the right and left of 
 the breast, and the central piece of the breast in three pieces, and the 
 thighs each in two pieces. They should be afterwards lightly trimmed, 
 so as to make the pieces uniform, and marked off in a two-quart 
 stewpan. 
 
 Let me add that the skin should not be removed, but left on each 
 piece of pheasant. Then prepare a curry sauce as follows :—Cut up one 
 Spanish onion in dice, and four shalots, and the yellow part of one 
 carrot, and the half of a white head of celery, also a slice of raw ham, 
 and fry these in a little clarified butter, till of a slight brown colour, then 
 add one tablespoonful of Indian curry powder, and two of Cook’s curry 
 paste, also a couple of spoonfuls of tamarinds, and one nice sharp apple 
 cut in thin slices. Then stir in two full tablespoonfuls of best flour, and 
 have ready one pint of best white stock, boiiing ; which mix with the 
 other ingredients, and stir till it comes to the boil, when if the sauce shows 
 too thick , add a little more stock , then let it slowly boil for about an hour, 
 till the butter used to fry the vegetables in has risen to the surface and 
 been removed. 
 
 Then strain the sauce through the side of a wire sieve, and gently 
 press all the moisture from the vegetables, which can then be placed 
 
47 $ SALMI OF PHEASANTS A L’ESSENCE. 
 
 aside, and put the curry sauce back in the stewpan to boil again, and 
 nicely skim the same ; and be most particular that it is of the right con¬ 
 sistence, adding a little more roux if not sufficiently thick, and a little 
 more stock if too thick. When right in this respect let the curry sauce 
 be gently rubbed through a very clean tammy cloth, and then poured 
 over the two cut-up pheasants. 
 
 When needed for the dinner, place the stewpan containing the 
 pheasants closely covered in the bain-marie case with your other sauces 
 to become hot, which will take about one hour. Then, for making your 
 rice borders in the two entree dishes, and the plain boiled rice to 
 be handed with the curries, see page 89, under the heading of curry 
 of lobster. 
 
 Finish and serve your curry of pheasants as therein described for the 
 curry of lobsters, but take care to use the whole of one pheasant for 
 each dish, which should be dished on a little plain rice in the centres of 
 the entree dishes, and that the curry sauce be equally divided between 
 the two entrees, some being poured over the pheasant (the principal 
 part) and part round the rice border; and above all take care the curries 
 are sent hot to table. 
 
 Salmi of Pheasants a l’Essence. —Having previously roasted 
 off two pheasants (the day previous, if possible), cut them, when quite 
 cold, into neat pieces, as for or in the same manner as they were pre¬ 
 pared for the curry—that is to say, into nine pieces. For these, remove 
 the skin from each piece, and when the pieces are neatly trimmed of 
 uniform size, mark them off in a two-quart stewpan ; then collect all the 
 trimmings and chop them up, also the backs, and place them in a quart- 
 size stewpan, to which add two glasses of sherry, one gill of best brown 
 gravy, and three parts of a pint of finished Espagnol sauce. Bring these 
 to the boil. 
 
 Then let them very gently simmer for about one hour. x\fter this, 
 strain them into a pointed wire sieve, pressing the remnants (so as to 
 extract all the sauce) with a spoon. Then again put the same to gently 
 boil for another ten minutes, adding two or three spoonfuls of stock; and 
 any scum that may rise should be removed, also any sign of fat; and 
 when it is right for consistence, pass it by squeezing it through the 
 
SALMI OF PHEASANTS A L’ESSENCE. 
 
 479 
 
 tammy, when a slight pinch of cayenne pepper should be added, also a 
 little sauce, when mark it off. 
 
 When required for dinner, it should have the cover firmly placed upon 
 the stewpan, and stand amidst the hot water in a bain-marie for about one 
 hour before dishing. After this, cut out about twenty-four circular 
 pieces of bread of the same size and thickness as a crown piece—they 
 should be cut from a loaf of bread baked on the previous day,—and 
 when all are cut out, then, with one of your tin cutters cut out a round 
 piece a quarter of an inch in diameter, and round this hole cut out a 
 few small pieces, so as to represent a star. Then cut off from the 
 bottom of each a piece, so as to enable each piece to stand upright, 
 and when all are finished thus far, they should be fried in some clean 
 lard, of a light gold colour. It is best to fry about one dozen at a 
 time. After they are fried and cold, mix some flour with one white of 
 egg, so as to make a rather stiff paste, then apply some of this to the 
 bottom of each crouton, and build up enough to form a border in each 
 entree dish, leaving an outside margin of about an inch. If the entree- 
 dish is round, let your border of croutons be round; and if oval, let the 
 border be oval. When you have built up these borders, let them stand 
 in the hot closet, or at the mouth of the oven, till firmly fixed upon the 
 same. If you make the paste with which you stick them on the dishes 
 not too stiff, they will fix on very firmly indeed; and when partly dried 
 on in the oven or closet, let them finish drying in the screen, and remain 
 there till you are ready to use them for dinner. 
 
 When about to dish up the salmi of pheasant, with your fork pick out 
 the pieces you have obtained from one pheasant (or similar pieces) and 
 commence by placing at the bottom the roughest parts, and finishing 
 with the breasts and pinion pieces; and when you have dished up the 
 two entrees, keep them hot in the screen, and do not sauce them till the 
 last moment, but have your sauce ready and boiling hot, and at the last 
 thing divide the same, pouring part very gently over the cut-up pheasant 
 and the rest round the croutons , and so serve each, and then send to 
 table. 
 
 Note .—Care should be taken when saucing not to soil the buildup 
 croutons by letting any of the sauce go over them. 
 
4§o 
 
 CREMES OF GROUSE A LA BOHEMIENNE. 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES OF GROUSE. 
 
 Petits Cremes of Grouse, a la Bohemienne. 
 
 Fritot of Grouse, Sauce aux Champignons. 
 
 Salmi of Grouse, Sauce aux Truffes. 
 
 Curry of Grouse a lTndienne. 
 
 Cremes of Grouse a la Bohemienne. —Prepare the cremes of 
 grouse exactly the same as for the creams of pheasants, and place the 
 trimmings on the fire in the same manner also. But you must be most 
 particular that the grouse are fresh. Prepare also the dariole moulds 
 in the same manner; and when you have filled the dariole moulds and 
 marked them off, the only difference will be in the sauce, which pre¬ 
 pare as follows : Chop up quite fine eight truffles, and place them in a 
 stewpan with three parts of a pint of Espagnol sauce, and place aside for 
 the present. Now look to the essence of grouse, and if it has boiled one 
 hour, strain it off and reduce it to demi-glaze, when add this to the 
 Espagnol sauce containing the chopped truffles, and two glasses of sherry 
 wine, and bring them to the boil, taking care there is no grease upon 
 it, and any that may show, should be removed, also any scum, when 
 the sauce is ready. 
 
 Then prepare the champignons as follows :— Open a pint tin and 
 place in a quart stewpan with the juice found with them, and add the 
 juice of one lemon and a little pepper and salt; and when the juice has 
 been absorbed by the champignons, pour them into a pint bain-marie 
 and add one-third of your bohemienne sauce to the same, and mark 
 them off along with your sauce, which, when needed, should be made 
 hot in the bain-marie case by standing ; mix the hot water therein. 
 When time to cook your petits cremes of grouse, place about one pint of 
 water round them and cook them— that is to say, let them simmer for 
 about ten or fifteen minutes, and when firm to the touch, you may rely 
 they are done, and should be removed from the hot-plate, and allowed 
 to settle down for a few minutes, when turn them out of the moulds, on 
 to a dish, to let any butter or liquid leave them, then dish them in 
 circular or oval form, according to the shape of your entree dishes, and 
 
FRITOT OF GROUSE A L’lMPERIAL. 
 
 481 
 
 when required to be sent to table, pour your bohemienne sauce round, 
 and divide the champignons by placing half in the centre of each, and 
 send to table. 
 
 Fritot of Grouse a l’lmperial. —Having trussed two fine fresh 
 grouse for roasting, cut off the legs, and having allowed them to boil or 
 braize for forty minutes, place them to become quite cold (and if cooked 
 the day previous, all the better). Then cut them into neat pieces the 
 same as for the salmi of pheasants, and having neatly trimmed them and 
 removed the skin, place them between two plates, and mark off in the 
 larder. Then prepare a pint of imperial sauce (for making of 
 which see page 125) ; also prepare a fritter batter as instructed 
 at page 30. 
 
 These matters having been duly attended to, the next proceeding will 1 
 be to make the lard hot for frying your grouse, and a small bladder of 
 about two pounds and a half should be enough for the fritot and other 
 purposes. And now, the lard being hot, we will suppose it is time to 
 cook and dish up your fritot of grouse. So at once place the pieces of 
 grouse belonging to one bird on a dish, and dust over them a handful 
 of flour, in which they should be tossed so as to very lightly mask them, 
 and then dip your finger into the fritter batter, and if it will adhere, and 
 nicely mask the same, you may be sure it will do ; and by throwing a bit 
 of crumb of bread into the lard, you can learn if that is also ready—that 
 is, if it fries nicely brown in the same ; and this proving to your satisfac¬ 
 tion, place the pieces of one grouse in the batter, and masking each 
 piece lightly with the batter, place about four pieces gently into the hot? 
 lard, and with a perforated spoon or slice move them after a couple of 
 minutes to the surface, and when you see they are of a light-brown colour, 
 have a wire frying-basket in your left hand, and with the spoon or slice 
 in your right hand, remove the pieces of grouse when nice and brown- 
 into the same. Then place them at one end of the dripping-pan to' 
 keep hot, and then fry off the remainder of one grouse (nine pieces), and 
 when these have been cooked, add them to the others, and so proceed 
 till the two grouse have been fried off, and arranging them on a large 
 wire sieve , leave them at one end of the dripping-pan till ready to dish; 
 them up. 
 
 2 N 
 
482 
 
 SALMI OF GROUSE. 
 
 Let me observe that the reason for keeping the fritot before or near 
 the range fire is to keep them crisp; for, if piled up in a small compass, 
 the batter in which they were fried is apt to become soft. And now 
 having arranged each grouse on the large sieve by itself, we can the more 
 readily dish them up when asked for. But now look to your imperial 
 sauce, and see that it is thoroughly hot, and being sure of this, proceed to 
 dish up, one dish at a time, in the centre of the entree dish, placing the 
 thighs and drumsticks at the bottom, and the prime pieces uppermost; 
 and both being dished and asked for, divide the imperial sauce, pouring 
 one half round one pile of grouse, and the remains round the other ; 
 then send them to table. 
 
 Curry of Grouse a l’Indienne. —These should be prepared, in 
 all particulars, exactly the same as for the curry of pheasants, merely 
 substituting grouse for pheasants. 
 
 Salmi of Grouse, Sauce aux Truffes. —These also should be 
 prepared, with the exception of the sauce, exactly the same as for the 
 salmi of pheasant—the essence from the trimmings reduced to a demi- 
 glaze, and added to three parts of a pint of espagnol sauce, to which 
 add one gill of sherry and a little truffle essence; and when reduced to 
 its proper consistence, and nicely skimmed, strain it through a tammy 
 upon the prepared pieces of grouse, to which add eight truffles cut in 
 slices, and mark off in the larder till needed. 
 
 When you wish to make the same hot, stand it in the midst of the 
 hot water in the bain-marie case, closely covered, for one hour before 
 you need it for dishing up; and croutons of bread should be cut and 
 fried, and fixed on the entree dishes, the same as for the salmi of 
 pheasant, the salmis being dished but not sauced till the last thing ; and 
 the slices of truffles should show on the top of each dish, and the sauce be 
 divided between the two dishes and poured round the built-up croutons, 
 which should not be soiled in any way. 
 
SALMI OF WOODCOCKS A LA BONNE BOUCHE. 483 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES OF WOODCOCKS. 
 
 Salmi of Woodcocks a la Bonne Bouche. 
 
 Woodcocks etuvee aux Petits Pois. 
 
 Woodcocks en Kari a l’Indienne. 
 
 Woodcocks etuvee a la Financiere. 
 
 Salmi of Woodcocks a la Bonne Bouche. —Roast off four 
 woodcocks the day previous to their being required, and be most parti¬ 
 cular that they are nicely roasted and done to a turn. Cut off the 
 quarters first, containing the thighs and legs, then follow by cutting the 
 two side pieces from the breasts, leaving the pinion bone upon them; 
 then cut off the remainder of the breast, separating it from the back¬ 
 bone, which place aside, and do the same by the other three. Then 
 cut them into neat and uniform-size pieces, namely, two pieces contain¬ 
 ing the thighs and legs, two pieces from the sides of breast with the 
 pinion bone left on them, and two pieces from the centre of breast— 
 which will give you twenty-four pieces. As you trim them, place them 
 in a two-quart stewpan, and when all are finished, fix the cover on and 
 mark off in the larder. 
 
 Then chop up all the trimmings, and place them in a quart stewpan, 
 and cover them with one pint of best stock, one onion, one carrot (the 
 yellow part), four shalots, and the half of a white head of celery. Allow 
 this to boil steadily for one hour, then strain it off, and reduce the stock 
 to a demi-glaze, which take care to free from grease and scum, then strain 
 it through a tammy cloth into a quart stewpan. Add to this about three 
 parts of a pint of Espagnol sauce and one gill of sherry, a couple of 
 spoonfuls of puree of tomatoes, two of Indian chutney sauce, a spoonful 
 of Cook’s curry paste, and one spoonful of mixed Indian pickle. Let 
 these boil together slowly for a quarter of an hour, and well skim it and 
 free it from any signs of grease or scum which may show, and afterwards 
 add it to your cut-up woodcocks, which place in the bain-marie case one 
 hour before, so as to become thoroughly hot. 
 
 They should be dished in a nice pile in the centre of some croutons, 
 
 cut, fried, and fixed upon two entree dishes, the same as described for 
 
 2 N 2 
 
4§4 
 
 WOODCOCKS EN KARI A L’lNDIENNE. 
 
 the salmi of pheasants. But, in dishing, pick out on to a dish the parts 
 belonging to two woodcocks, and take care to keep the croutons a little 
 wider than those for the salmi of pheasants; and when dished sauce at 
 the last thing, the same as previously directed. 
 
 Woodcocks Etuvde with Stewed Peas. —Prepare and cut up 
 the woodcooks as directed for the salmi of woodcocks, also extract an 
 essence as therein directed, which, when it has been reduced to a demi- 
 glaze, add the same to a pint of Espagnol sauce (straining it first through 
 a tammy cloth), and add a gill of sherry to the same; and when these 
 have boiled together, pour them over the pieces of woodcock previously 
 prepared, adding one gill of extra stock, and let the pieces of wood¬ 
 cock gently stew in this for a quarter of an hour, skimming off any scum 
 which may show. Then place them aside till the dinner, when one pint 
 and a half of canister peas should be boiled in water for a couple of 
 minutes, with about half a tablespoonful of salt in the same; when 
 they should be strained off and allowed to become cold. 
 
 After this, the same number of croutons should be cut as for the salmi 
 of pheasants, which you will remember were twenty-four. They should 
 be cut in the same manner, and the same size as the before-mentioned. 
 When fried and cold, the same kind of paste, made of the white of an 
 egg and flour, should be made again ; but for the present dishes, the 
 croutons should be placed so as almost to touch the sides of the entree 
 dishes, close to which the pieces of woodcock will be dished, and in 
 such a manner as to leave a hole in the centre (in which the peas, after 
 they have been made hot in a few spoonfuls of the salmi sauce, should 
 be placed); and when both are dished, the sauce should be made very hot 
 and poured over the woodcocks—the best pieces of the same showing at 
 the top. 
 
 Let me add that a sauce-spoon (after you have divided the sauce) is 
 the best thing to use for saucing the woodcocks when dished in this way. 
 
 Woodcocks en Kari a l’Indienne. —Roast off four woodcocks 
 the day previous to using them, and cut them up in the same manner 
 as those last described, and place the pieces in a two-quart stewpan. 
 After which chop up the trimmings, and place them in a quart stewpan 
 with a pint of gravy, the same as described for the curry of pheasants, 
 
WOODCOCKS ETUVEE A LA FINANCIERE. 485 
 
 and finish the curry sauce exactly the same as therein instructed, and 
 prepare the rice, and dish them in the same manner. 
 
 Woodcocks Etuvee a la Financiere. —Roast off four wood¬ 
 cocks the same as for the above ; and make an essence from the trim¬ 
 mings with a pint of best stock, the same as instructed a few pages past 
 for the salmi of pheasants a l’essence, which, when it has boiled one hour, 
 should be reduced to a demi-glaze ; and well skimmed while doing so ; 
 and when it is ready, strain it through a tammy into a two-quart stewpan. 
 
 Add to the same one pint of Espagnol sauce, then open a pint bottle 
 of truffles, also a pint can of mushrooms, and pour the essence that 
 comes and is found with each into the Espagnol, to which add one gill 
 of good sherry, and let these reduce to the original consistence of the 
 Espagnol sauce, when strain it through a tammy cloth and place it aside 
 for the present time. 
 
 Then turn out the truffles from the bottle, also the champignons from 
 the can : place each on a separate plate, then draw the cork from a bottle 
 of cockscombs and stand the bottle for a few minutes in some warm 
 water, so as to melt the jelly which is found with them, and when melted 
 turn them also on to a plate and pick out the combs, which wash in a 
 little warm water, and dry them on a cloth; when cut off any hairs found 
 upon them, and place them in a quart stewpan, after which cut into very 
 thin slices the bottle of truffles, which mix with the cockscombs, and to 
 these add your champignons. Add to these one gill of best stock, and 
 place them aside for the present time. 
 
 Then bake six potatoes, of the same size, and make them into 
 potato paste for dishing upon (for which see page 63). And now 
 let me state that the side-pieces cut from the breast should be cut 
 with great care and exactness, and the same with the centre-pieces 
 from the breast, which should be cut exactly in two (I refer to the cut- 
 ting-up of the woodcocks). If these little matters are duly attended to, 
 the two entrees will look all the better when dished up than if cut of 
 different sizes. And now pour one half of your prepared sauce over the 
 pieces of woodcock, and covering them closely, place the stewpan contain¬ 
 ing the same in the bain-marie case for one hour, to become nice and 
 hot. And now to continue our description. We will suppose that time 
 
486 WOOD COCKS ETUVEE A LA FINANClfCRE. 
 
 past, and proceed at once to dish the woodcocks a la financiere. 
 Make a neat border of potato paste on each entree dish, and on the same 
 (or at least one of them) place opposite each other four pieces of wood¬ 
 cock, cut from the centre of the breast. 
 
 Then place in the centre four legs or drumsticks, as they are called, 
 and on these the four pieces called by the French the cuisses or thighs ; 
 place two of these at a little distance apart on the drumsticks, and the 
 other two pieces placed crossways, and also a little distance apart, leav¬ 
 ing a small aperture in the centre. After this, take the four pieces cut from, 
 the side of the breast, each piece containing a part of the pinion bone, 
 and place four of these between the square pieces cut from the centre of 
 the breast, placing them slightly slanting with the pointed part lead¬ 
 ing to the centre and the broad resting on the border of the potato paste, 
 and exactly between the square pieces. Thus one of your entr6es is in 
 part dished, and should be covered and placed in the screen. The other 
 should be dished in the same manner, and placed by the side of that one 
 which was first dished ; and now place the ragout to get hot, and also- 
 place the sauce in which the pieces of woodcock were made hot along 
 with that you have in reserve, and make this hot also. And now to finish 
 them : let the ragout a la financiere be strained for a few minutes in a 
 pointed tin strainer, then turned on to a china plate, when it should be 
 partly dried with a napkin; the 1 '' bring out from the screen the first entree 
 and mixing the ragout well together, divide the same, and from one half 
 make a pile of ragout in the centre, and two piles also, one on the right 
 and one on the left of the dished woodcocks, so as to use one half of your 
 ragout. 
 
 Then again place the same in the screen, and do the like with the 
 other, which place there also. And finally bring your financiere sauce 
 to the boil, and immediately they are asked for bring them from the 
 screen, and with your spoon sauce the pieces of woodcock; but pour 
 very little over the ragout, but (having divided your sauce) pour what is 
 left at the base and between the two piles of ragout, and finish the other 
 the same and send them to table. 
 
 Note.—I have purposely not used quenelles or scollops of sweetbread in 
 the ragout , because I consider it an econo?ny not so to do. 
 
STEWED PARTRIDGES. 
 
 487 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Partridges Stewed with Brussels Sprouts a la Moderne. 
 
 Salmi of Partridges aux Champignons. 
 
 Balotines of Partridges a la Macedoine. 
 
 Partridges au Gratin a lTmperial. 
 
 Stewed Partridges with Brussels Sprouts a la Moderne.— 
 
 Take eight boned partridges, the bones from which chop up and place in 
 a stewpan with a pint of best stock, with one onion, the yellow part of 
 one carrot, and the half of one white head of celery ; bring to the boil, 
 and then skim it well, and let boil gently for one hour. After this, 
 pound well in the mortar two pounds of sausage meat, and rub it through 
 a wire sieve, and add to this six chopped truffles, eight chopped cham¬ 
 pignons (which have been preserved in a tin canister ); add a little 
 herbaceous mixture, and some pepper and salt, mix well together, and 
 then divide it into sixteen equal portions. After which, cut the boned 
 partridges open down the back, and then exactly between the fillets, and 
 cut the rump, also the legs, off each. 
 
 When all have been done in this manner, beat out each half slightly , 
 so as to spread out the fillets. Then place the sixteen parts of prepared 
 sausage meat into the sixteen halves of partridges, and form them into 
 round balls, which should be tied up in two pieces of calico lightly, and 
 be made to keep their round shape; after which, place them in a 
 suitable-sized stewpan, and cover them with some boiling second stock, 
 and let them slowly boil in this three-quarters of an hour (and be atten¬ 
 tive and see that they do so). When they have boiled the specified 
 time, take them from the stock, and untie one, and if assured it is done, 
 let them all be tied up a little tighter, placing another piece of string 
 above that with which they were first tied, so as to preserve their round 
 form as much as possible, when place them to become cold, which 
 can be done by placing them in cold water with some ice in it if required 
 quickly. 
 
 Then place six carrots of equal size to boil in water with a little salt 
 in it, but let them be nicely scraped before putting them to boil. Pre- 
 
488 
 
 STEWED PARTRIDGES. 
 
 pare also one quart of nicely trimmed Brussels sprouts, which boil for 
 a few minutes in water with some salt in it, letting them boil quickly for 
 about three minutes, when strain them on a hair sieve, and allow them 
 to become quite cold, and when the carrots are done, strain them on 
 a sieve also. Then prepare them as follows : Cut off the thick parts, 
 which cut into slices one-eighth of an inch thick, or say a little thicker, 
 and you will require about two dozen slices, and these should be cut as 
 nearly as possible of the same thickness. 
 
 Then select two tin cutters, one about an inch in diameter, and with 
 this cut off the outside edge from each slice, and then with another about 
 half an inch cut out the centre from the slice, so as to leave you twenty- 
 four rings cut from the red part of the carrots. Place these in a stewpan 
 with a pat of butter and a half teaspoonful of sugar, with about the same 
 of salt, and let them boil, having covered them with water, till they are 
 nice and tender, when place them aside for the present. After this’ 
 strain off the essence from the bones of the partridges. 
 
 Then place the partly boiled Brussels sprouts in a stewpan, and 
 cover them with the essence from the partridge bones, and then let 
 them gently boil till they are done. And let me add, be most particular 
 not to cook the Brussels sprouts too much, so directly they are done, 
 remove them from the hot-plate, and place them beside the rings formed 
 from the carrots. Then place the remaining essence from the bones of 
 the partridges with about three parts of a pint of Espagnol, and one gill 
 of sherry, to slowly boil on the side of the hot-plate for about half an 
 hour, taking care to skim it well. And while this is proceeding, bring in 
 from the larder the partridges, which untie and place on a sautApan, 
 adding about half a pint of second stock to them. After this, let the 
 kitchen-maid prepare six potatoes for making into potato paste (for 
 which see page 63). 
 
 Next we will proceed to dish up the partridges. So place what you 
 have arranged on the saute-pan in the oven to make hot, and see that 
 some glaze is in the bain-marie, and while this is taking place, make two 
 borders of potato paste on the two entree dishes, and let the borders 
 be about one quarter of an inch thick ; and round each border arrange 
 in a slanting direction the rings of carrots, pressing them down so as to 
 
SALMI OF PARTRIDGES. 
 
 489 
 
 fix them on the border of potato paste, and as there are only twelve to 
 each dish, you must so arrange them that they will reach all round ; 
 finish each in the same manner, and place them in the screen for 
 the present. Then look at the partridges in the oven, and if hot, pour 
 off the second stock, and place them back for a few minutes, so that they 
 will dry sufficiently to take the glaze. Then glaze them, passing your 
 glaze brush, after dipping the same in the glaze, lightly over each half 
 partridge, and when all have thus been done, put them back in the oven 
 for a short time, and the glaze to still keep hot in the bain-marie case. 
 And now again look at your partridges, and give them another coat of 
 glaze. 
 
 Then again place them in the oven leaving the door open so that 
 the glaze may nicely dry on the partridges. Now r bring out the entree 
 dishes from the screen, and neatly place eight on each border of potatoes 
 (of the partridges), cover them over with the entree covers and put 
 in the hottest part of the screen. Then stand the Brussels sprouts, or 
 rather the stewpan containing them, in the bain-marie case to make them 
 hot. Then look to your sauce, skim it nicely, taste it, and if to your 
 satisfaction, all is well. We will suppose they are now asked for, so 
 strain the Brussels sprouts on to a sieve, standing the sieve on a dish, 
 and once again bring the partridges from the screen, and divide the 
 Brussels sprouts between them, placing a nice pile in the centre of each, 
 and then very gently dividing the sauce between them, pouring the 
 same round the rings of carrot in each dish; then cover and send to 
 table. 
 
 Salmi of Partridges aux Champignons. —Roast off four fine 
 partridges the day previous to using them, and now cut for use five 
 pieces from each bird, namely, two pieces from the side of that contain¬ 
 ing the pinion bone, and these should be cut rather full, then the two 
 quarters, and finally the centre from the breast. 
 
 When all are thus cut up, trim each piece, and remove the skin from 
 the same. After this place them in a three-pint stewpan, fix the 
 cover on, and place in the larder. Then chop up the backs, and collect 
 all the trimmings, and place them in a quart stewpan with one gill of 
 sherry, which let stew for an hour, adding also one pint of best brown 
 
490 
 
 PARTRIDGES AU GRATIN. 
 
 stock. Then garnish exactly the same as for the salmi of pheasa?its. 
 Preparing the croutons and fixing them on the dish, the same as for the 
 above, which you will see a few pages back, and when the sauce is pre¬ 
 paring add the juice from one half-a-pint tin of champignons, and when 
 ready for dishing add the mushrooms to the sauce, and use them equally 
 between the two, take care also to place the prime parts of the partridges 
 on the top of each dish ; also that the pieces from two birds are used 
 for each dish, and the sauce equally divided between them before sending 
 to table. 
 
 Partridges a la Macedoine. —Prepare eight boned partridges 
 exactly the same as for the partridges a la moderne, glaze, and dish the 
 same, and make the sauce after the same manner, using a pint tin of 
 preserved macedoine roots to place in the centre, which, prepare in the 
 following manner: Have one quart of water boiling on the fire, with a 
 little salt in it; open the canister of macedoine roots, strain off 
 thfe liquor from them, and turn them into the boiling water, and let 
 them boil up, when strain them into a pointed tin strainer, and place 
 them in a quart stewpan, with one pat of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 and half a teaspoonful of salt, and hardly cover them with water; let 
 them stew in this for a few minutes, or in better words, till they are 
 tender, letting them remain in this liquor till you are ready to use them; 
 then make them hot and strain them off, then divide them and place 
 one half in the centre of each entree, and pour about half a pint of 
 sauce round each, with a little over the macedoine, and send to 
 table. 
 
 Partridges au Gratin a la Imperial. —Prepare eight boned 
 partdriges, farcing and preparing them exactly the same as for partridges 
 a la moderne, but use imperial sauce instead of the Brussels sprouts, 
 and the rings of carrots will not be required ; the imperial sauce 
 will be found described at page 125, but for this entree keep it 
 a little thicker than there described. When your partridges are 
 quite cold, take the sixteen and throw a little flour over them on a 
 dish; they should then be egged and bread-crumbed the same 
 as for croquettes or cutlets, and at the proper time fry them in some 
 clean hog’s lard, frying off a couple first to try the heat of the lard, and 
 
SNIPES FARCI A LA FINANCIERS. 491 
 
 if all right, place seven at a time in your wire frying basket, which sub' 
 merge in the hot fat and fry them of a light brown colour. 
 
 When all are fried, dish eight on each dish upon a border of potato 
 paste (for the preparation of which see page 63); when they are desired 
 for table (and keep them in the hot part of the screen till they are), 
 pour the imperial sauce sound them, and some in the centre and 
 send them to table. 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES OF SNIPES. 
 
 Snipes Farci a la Financiere. 
 
 Compote of Snipes aux Champignons. 
 
 Snipes au Gratin Sauce a l’Imperial. 
 
 Snipes en Fritot a la Macedoine. 
 
 Snipes Farci a la Financiere. —Take eight boned snipes, cut 
 the legs, and prepare the following farci: Pound in the mortar one and 
 a half pounds of pork sausage meat for about five minutes, after which 
 rub it through the quenelle sieve, and place it on a china dish. Then 
 chop up six truffles rather fine, also eight champignons, and mix these 
 with the sausage meat. Season with a little pepper and salt, and add a 
 couple of yolks of eggs to the sausage meat with the truffles, mushrooms, 
 and seasoning, which well mix together, and then divide it into eight 
 separate but equal portions, and having partly opened the breast part of 
 each, season with a little mixed white pepper and salt, then place in 
 each one portion of the prepared sausage meat, and as you do them, 
 make them into a nice plump oval shape, drawing the skin as far as 
 possible over the hole left by the removal of the neck. As you do them, 
 place them on a suitable-sized saute-pan, and cover them with a few 
 slices of very thin fat bacon, and place them in an oven of moderate heat. 
 They should have a few spoonfuls of stock placed round them before 
 putting in the oven; they will take from twenty minutes to half 
 an hour to cook; when done, they will feel firm when pressed with 
 the finger and thumb. 
 
 When sufficiently cooked, place them where they will soon become 
 cold, and if needed quickly, cover them with a little pounded ice, after 
 placing them on a cold china dish. While they are becoming cold, 
 
492 
 
 SNIPES FARCED AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 
 
 place one pint of Espagnol sauce in a two-quart stewpan with one gill of 
 sherry and the same of best stock ; and chop up the carcases of the 
 quails, and place these with the same, and put them to boil quickly; 
 when boiling, place aside on the hot-plate, where it will simmer as 
 gently as possible for about three-quarters of an hour. While this is 
 proceeding, let your kitchen-maid make six baked potatoes into some 
 potato paste for dishing up upon; and after this, let the legs and feet 
 of the snipes be scalded in a little boiling water, and placed in a little 
 kitchen-pan. 
 
 We will suppose that it is now time to dish your two entries of snipes, 
 so cut them in two, and place them on a saute, with a few spoonfuls of 
 second stock under, and place in the oven ; and when hot, nicely glaze 
 them (having placed the legs back in each part where they were taken 
 or cut from (one in each half), and when the glaze has dried on each 
 half, and they look glossy and shining, dish them after the manner 
 of cutlets, on two borders of potatoes ; when dished, cover them with the 
 entree covers, and place in the screen to keep hot; then skim your 
 financiere sauce and reduce it to its proper consistence, pass it 
 through a tammy cloth into a small stewpan, and place it in the bain- 
 marie case. 
 
 Then prepare a financere ragout, consisting only of sliced truffles, 
 mushrooms and cockscombs, which make hot in a little of the sauce 
 you have just prepared, divide between your two entrees. When 
 required to be sent to table, pour half a pint of sauce round each 
 entree and send to table. 
 
 Snipes farced aux Champignons. —Prepare these the same as 
 the above using a pint canister of preserved champignons instead of the 
 ragout a la financiere, allowing the juice that is found with the cham¬ 
 pignons to reduce the sauce ; which when it is of the right consistence, 
 place the champignons in the same with a little pepper and salt, and let 
 them boil in it for about five minutes. 
 
 When you have dished your snipes, strain the champignons from the 
 sauce, and then divide between the two entrees, and pour part of your 
 sauce over the mushrooms, and the remainder round the two dishes of 
 snipe, when send to table. 
 
SNIPES AU GRATIN A LA MACfiDOINE. 
 
 493 
 
 Snipes farced with Stewed Peas. —Having prepared and dished 
 the snipes as above, throw a tin of preserved peas in some boiling water 
 for a few minutes to hot through, then place round and serve. 
 
 Snipes en Fritot a PImperial. —Prepare the snipes as the fore¬ 
 going, and when cooked, divide them lengthways. Then prepare an im¬ 
 perial sauce (using the essence from bones of the snipes to make the 
 same), and when your sauce is prepared (for which see page 125), then 
 make a fritter batter (for which see page 30). When preparing the snipes 
 for dinner, a little flour should be shaken over the snipes, and having 
 seen that your batter is of the right consistence—and, let me add, it 
 will prove so if by dipping your finger in it, it will nicely mask, and, so 
 as to speak, adhere to the same. 
 
 Then dip each half into the batter, and then into some clean hog’s lard 
 made sufficiently hot to fry in, which you should test by placing in the 
 same, a half slice of bread, and if it fries that of a nice brown you can 
 rely it will do the same with your fritot of snipes, but you must be careftil 
 when dipping the halves of snipes in the batter not to have too much 
 batter on each half snipe , but let a portion run off; and do not fry more 
 than six at a time, and as you do them, put them on a quenelle sieve, 
 and place them to keep hot on one end of the dripping-pan. When all 
 are fried, dish them in two piles in the two entree dishes, and pour the 
 imperial sauce, boiling hot, round the two fritots when sending to table. 
 
 Snipes au Gratin a la Macedoine. —The snipes should be pre¬ 
 pared the same as for any of the above; but instead of dipping them in 
 batter they should, when cut in two, lengthways, be egged and bread- 
 crumbed, the same as for cutlets, and take care the bread-crumbs are 
 made expressly. 
 
 When all are bread-crumbed, they should be neatly arranged on a 
 saut6-pan and some clarified butter, by means of your butter brush, 
 run over the surface of each half-snipe, and then place them to gratinate 
 in the oven, taking care the same is not too hot: about twenty minutes 
 should cook them, and when of a light-brown colour they will be done. 
 Then dish them up on borders of potato paste (for which see page 63). 
 Make the sauce as usual from the essence which has been extracted 
 from the bones of the quails, and prepare the garniture of macedoine 
 
494 
 
 SALMI OF WILD DUCKS WITH OLIVES. 
 
 roots as follows :—Open a pint canister of macedoine roots, strain the 
 water from them, and place them in a quart of boiling water, and let 
 them boil up in this, placing about half a teaspoonful of salt in it. 
 
 When they boil up, strain them off, and place them in a quart stew- 
 pan ; when add about one gill of best gravy to them, and let them stew 
 in this till quite tender, placing a small pat of butter with them, and 
 about one teaspoonful of salt and powdered lump sugar, and let the 
 macedoine stew very gently in their stock for five minutes, when, if quite 
 tender, they will do. When dishing up, strain them off, and divide them 
 between your two dishes, and add about half a pint of sauce to each 
 entree, and send to table very hot. 
 
 Salmi of Wild Ducks with Olives.—Roast off two fine wild 
 ducks the day previous to using them, and being careful they are nicely 
 roasted, cut them up in the following manner :—Cut off the two quarters 
 containing the thighs and the legs ; then cut two pieces from the sides 
 of the breast, and as it will have to be cut in two pieces, cut each piece 
 with a pinion bone in it, rather full. When you have cut it off, then cut 
 each side-piece in two again ; and they will be found best if cut on the 
 slant, and as near the same size as possible : do the same with each side 
 piece. Then cut the central part of the breast from the back, which 
 divide in three pieces, and the two quarters should be equally divided. 
 Then trim the eleven pieces , which you have obtained from one wild duck, 
 into neat pieces, and place them in a quart stewpan ; then proceed and 
 do the other wild duck exactly, or as nearly the same as possible, and 
 mark it off in a separate stewpan. 
 
 After this, chop up the two backs of the wild duck rather small, and 
 also add the other small trimmings, and place them in a three-pint stew¬ 
 pan, with half a pint of best stock, half a pint of Espagnol sauce, and one 
 gill of sherry, and let these boil gently for about one hour, when the 
 gravy from the same should be poured into a pointed tin strainer and 
 strained into a quart stewpan, and reduced by boiling to the consistence 
 of single cream ; then add about another gill of Espagnol sauce, and when 
 this boils, skim it, and pour it over your two wild ducks in the two separate 
 stewpans, dividing the sauce equally between the two. Then cut two 
 dozen croustades, the same in shape as for the salmi of pheasants, which 
 
SALMI OF WILD DUCKS WI1H OLIVES. 
 
 495 
 
 should be built up after they are fried, in the same manner as for the 
 above-mentioned, described on page 478, and placed in the oven or 
 screen to dry. 
 
 The cut-up wild duck should be placed in the bain-marie case, and 
 stand midst the hot water therein for an hour before they are dished up; 
 and one pint bottle of olives should be cut with your small knife into 
 curls, which is done by beginning at one end and peeling off the fleshy 
 part from the stones, which will represent a curl, and by placing the 
 liquor which comes from the olives in a small stewpan, and placing the 
 curls from the olives in this, the same will cause them to keep their 
 colour till you need them for use. When you dish the wild ducks, place 
 the pieces from one stewpan on to a dish, and place round the bottom 
 of the built-up croustades the roughest parts of the wild duck, and top 
 up or finish with the best pieces of duck, and place half of your peeled 
 olives in the centre of the pieces of built-up duck, and when both are 
 thus dished up, place them in the hottest part of the screen; and when 
 required for table, pour a little sauce carefully over the ducks, and the 
 remainder round the outside of the built-up croustades, and send to 
 table. 
 
496 
 
 NEW REGISTERED MOULDS, 
 
 FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 
 
 Directions for use, by the Inventor, sent with each. 
 
 PLOVER EGG BORDER MOULD. 
 
 TWO SIZES. 
 
 I-PINT, ALSO f-PINT. 
 
 NEW BORDER AND JELLY MOULDS. 
 
 Tht above to be obtained from Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6, Motcomb Street, 
 
 Belgrave Square, London, S. IV. 
 
[Owing to circumstances in which our readers have no interest, our pages 497 to 504 are by 
 another writer than Mr. Hobbs, a well-known Chef in high-class cookery.] 
 
 MENU OF • DINNER 
 
 FOR DECEMBER ioth. 
 
 FOR SIXTEEN OR EIGHTEEN PERSONS. 
 
 ( Tivo Soups.) 
 
 Crecy Soup or Oyster Soup. 
 
 Clear Giblet Soup. 
 
 ( Two Fish.) 
 
 Souchet of Salmon. 
 
 Sole a la Colbert. 
 
 ( Two Entrees.) 
 
 Two Dishes of Ris de Veau aux Tomates. 
 
 Two Dishes of Filets de Dinde a l’Ecarlate. 
 
 (Two Removes.) 
 
 Roast Goose. 
 
 York Ham and French Salad. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast Pheasants. 
 
 Roast Black Game. 
 
 (Two Vegtables.) 
 
 Sea Kale. 
 
 Potato Chips. 
 
 (Remove Sweets.) 
 
 Mince Pies or Apple Fritters a l’Anglaise. 
 
 (Sweet Entremets.) 
 
 Jellies a la Russe. 
 
 Maids of Flonor. 
 
 Compote of Oranges. 
 
 (Savoury Entremet.) 
 
 Macaroni au Parmesan. 
 
 2 O 
 
493 
 
 SOUCHET OF SALMON. 
 
 REQUISITION LIST. 
 
 Butcher. 
 
 Twenty-four pounds of soup meat, half beef and half veal, and without 
 bones ; two-pound slice of veal; two pounds of gravy beef; one ox 
 tongue; six fine heart sweetbreads. These should all be in the kitchen 
 a day or two before the dinner. 
 
 Fishmonger. 
 
 About three pounds of salmon, for souchet, the tale end of the fish is 
 suitable; two large soles. If you decide to serve the oyster soup, you 
 will require three dozen oysters and^some fish for the stock (see page 452). 
 
 Poulterer. 
 
 One turkey, for fillets ; one goose, about six pounds, for roasting; 
 two pheasants ; two blackgame. 
 
 Greengrocer. 
 
 A dozen carrots (including those required for crecy soup, should you 
 decide upon this); six onions; four heads of celery; a bunch of 
 parsley ; twelve tomatoes of a good colour and medium size; twelve 
 pounds of potatoes ; one basket seakale; and the materials for the 
 salad; eight medium-sized apples, for fritters; ten oranges, for compote. 
 
 Miscellaneous Items. 
 
 Ham, weighing about 14 pounds ; quarter of a pound macaroni; 
 half pound Parmesan cheese ; fresh butter ; salt ditto ; cream, milk, 
 eggs, &c., as required. The materials for mincemeat you will have 
 obtained a fortnight previously, and should now have your mince ready 
 for use. 
 
 The Soups. — For the thick soup serve either the crecy soup de¬ 
 scribed on page 102 or the oyster soup, see pages 452-3. For the clear 
 giblet soup, see page 451. 
 
 TWO FISH. 
 
 Souchet of Salmon. — Trim and fillet the required quantity of 
 plain salmon. Place the fillets neatly side by side in a stewpan, and 
 put them by till dinner time. Put the trimmings of the salmon into a 
 stewpan, with carrot, celery, and parsley sliced up, with a little pepper and 
 
ROAST GOOSE. 
 
 499 
 
 salt, and two glasses of white wine. Fill up with water or weak broth, let 
 it boil, and set aside to gently keep boiling for half an hour. Strain 
 through a napkin on to your fillets of salmon, let them then boil briskly 
 for five minutes on the fire, add some shred parsley and boil together 
 for three minutes more. Serve in a deep silver dish or a soup tureen. 
 
 Sole a la Colbert. —Clean and trim a large sole, stripping off the 
 skin. Make an incision on each side of the bone down the whole length of 
 the back, and break the bone in pieces so as the better to enable you 
 to remove it when cooked. Brush the sole with egg, and fry in hot fat. 
 Drain it and carefully remove the bone, filling the cavity with maitre 
 d’hotel butter. Serve quite hot on a napkin, garnished with fried parsley 
 and a cut lemon. 
 
 If preferred, use dorys, which are usually plentiful in December, 
 and may be served in other ways than those already given, say, “ with 
 fine herbs,” or “ a la Pelissier,” &c., &c. 
 
 TWO ENTREES. 
 
 Ris de veau aux Tomates. —Prepare your sweetbreads as page 
 295, and substitute tomatoes for the mushrooms there used as a garnish. 
 
 Filets de Dinde a PEcarlate. —The fillets to be removed from 
 a turkey, and cut and prepared as directed for fillets of fowl, on pages 
 53 and 83. In sending to table dish in a close circle, with a round 
 scollop of red tongue between each. Supreme sauce (see instructions 
 given on page 101) to be poured round, not over. 
 
 TWO REMOVES. 
 
 Roast Goose.— Pick, draw, singe, stuff, and truss for roasting. 
 Then roast before a nice even fire for an hour and a quarter. Sprinkle 
 with a little salt. When, done, remove string, &c. Strain and skim the 
 fat from the gravy, and pour round goose on dish. 
 
 Stuffing for Goose. —Take three middle-sized onions, cut in slices, 
 with two dozen sage leaves, blanch both for five minutes, drain, and 
 chop fine. Put in a stewpan, with one ounce of butter, a pinch or two 
 of salt, and a pinch of pepper. Simmer for ten minutes, stirring the 
 while, with a wooden spoon, add a handful of bread crumbs, and stir 
 for two minutes more. 
 
 202 
 
5oo 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS A LA ANGLAISE. 
 
 York Ham and French Salad. —Steep your ham in cold water 
 over night. Tie in a cloth, and boil gently for five hours in plenty of 
 water. To be served hot, with the French salad described on page 253, 
 or, if preferred, the tomato salad given on page 394. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Roast Pheasants, Roast Black Game. —For these two follow 
 the instructions given for roasting pheasants on page 67. Serve with 
 the pheasants the bread sauce described on page 65, and fried bread 
 crumbs with the black game. 
 
 Vegetables, Seakale. —Tie the seakale up in small bundles, and 
 put in boiling water with a little salt. It should boil tender in about 
 twenty minutes. Dish up on a piece of toast. Serve in a boat the 
 butter sauce (see page 23). Potato chips (see page 401). 
 
 REMOVE SWEET. 
 
 Apple Fritters a l’Anglaise. — Make a fritter batter as follows : 
 One pound sifted flour of the best quality; place this in a two-quart 
 kitchen basin, add one yolk of egg, one gill of salad oil, and half a pint 
 of light coloured ale (but use only a gill of ale to commence with). Stir 
 these together with a small wire whisk lightly. It should be of the 
 thickness of double cream, and till it is so, keep adding a little more ale. 
 The slow r er and lighter you mix the oil, flour, ale, and yolk of egg, the 
 better; and before using, try it with the point of your finger, dipping 
 the same in the batter, and if it readily and smoothly masks the same 
 it will do ; or fry one as sample, which wall enable you better to judge. 
 The apples should not be peeled too soon. Peel eight middling-sized 
 apples, cut each apple in three or four slices, then, with a cutter, take 
 out the centre from each, and place them in a plate or in a basin, and 
 grate the zest of one lemon over the same. Dip one piece at a time in 
 your batter, and then into your hot lard ; fry off about eight pieces at a 
 time, and place them on a wire sieve till all are done. Then coat them 
 with a little powdered sugar, salamander them, and serve on napkins, 
 the sugar side upwards. This batter will be found a most excellent one, 
 will always eat crisp, and requires no whipped w'hites of eggs to be added 
 to the same. 
 
MAIDS OF HONOUR. 
 
 501 
 
 Mincemeat. —Take two pounds of the undercut of the sirloin of 
 ready-dressed roast beef, without skin or gristle, and chopped fine ; two 
 pounds of beef suet, clear from the skins, and chopped fine; three 
 pounds of currants, well picked and washed ; one pound of new raisins, 
 washed, stoned, and chopped ;^three pounds of pippin or russet apples, 
 pared, cored, and chopped fine; one pound of good moist sugar, a 
 quarter of a pound of candied orange peel, a quarter of a pound of 
 candied lemon peel, and a quarter of a pound of candied citron peel, 
 all chopped fine. Add half an ounce of grated nutmeg, half an ounce 
 of powdered ginger, and Jialf an ounce each of cloves, allspice, and 
 cinnamon, all finely powdered; the juice and grated rinds of three 
 lemons, and a pint and a half of brandy. Mix the spice first with the 
 suet and meat, then the currants, raisins, apples, and candied peels 
 together in a large pan, adding the sugar by degrees, and then the 
 lemon-juice, the grated lemon"peel, and brandy; and stir all well to¬ 
 gether with a wooden spoon every other day for a fortnight, keeping the 
 pan closely covered in a cool place, when it will be fit for use. 
 
 Mince Pies. —Take a sufficient quantity of the mincemeat to make 
 as many pies as you wish. Stir the mincemeat up from the bottom of 
 the pan before you take it out, and mix with it half a glass of brandy. 
 Line with puff-paste the number of patty-pans you may require; let the 
 paste be a quarter of an inch thick at the edges, and half that thickness 
 at the bottom of the patty-pans. Fill them with the mincemeat, and 
 cover with puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick all over. Trim the 
 edges off in a slanting’direction. Make a hole in the middle of the 
 crust, and put the pies to bake in an oven moderately heated. Take 
 them our of the tins, and send them to table hot. 
 
 SWEET ENTREMETS. 
 
 Jellies a la Russe. —Full instructions for making these and a 
 variety of other jellies will be found on pages 184 to 187. 
 
 Maids of Honour.—Place eight potatoes in the oven to bake. 
 When done, cut each in half, and with an iron spoon remove the 
 inside from each, placing] the same on a wire sieve, and rub them 
 through the sieve, putting a plate underneath to receive the same as it 
 
502 
 
 MAIDS OF HONOUR. 
 
 goes through. When finished, place aside, and proceed as follows: 
 Take half-a-pound of butter and place it in a two-quart stewpan, and 
 make the stewpan a little warm ; then with a wooden spoon keep 
 beating the same for a few minutes till it becomes white and creamy in 
 appearance, and when so, add half-a-pound of powdered sugar, and beat 
 together for a few minutes longer. Then beat in two whole eggs, and 
 four yolks of eggs, add the whole eggs one at a time, and the yolks of 
 eggs two at a time. The mixture should be kept well beaten as you 
 add the eggs, and when all are beaten or mixed in, weigh six ounces of 
 the prepared potatoes, and two ounces of grated cocoanut (the white 
 part), and the gratings of one lemon. Mix these very lightly into the 
 mixture of sugar, butter, and eggs, and when finished, place in the cool 
 to be used when needed. And now prepare your puff paste. Take 
 one pound and a half of the best flour you can obtain ; also one pound 
 and a half of the best butter (mild salt butter is the best for the purpose). 
 Work your butter on your pastry slab to get all the water out of it, then 
 dry in a cloth, and rub about an ounce into a portion of your flour, and 
 mix this afterwards into all the flour. Draw your flour together, and 
 make a dam or a hole in the centre ; into this place the juice of half a 
 lemon, then add about half-a-pint of water, and mix into a compact 
 paste of as near as possiblle the same consistence or fir?nness as your 
 butter. You must be watchful and attentive here, and see that it is so. 
 When the paste is mixed let it lay with a wet napkin over it for ten 
 minutes, after which mould into a round ball, and then roll this out 
 to the thickness of half an inch. Place your butter on this paste 
 on the left side, and about one inch from the extreme edge of the paste, 
 patting the butter with the palm of your hand, so as to make it extend 
 uniformly over one-half of the left-hand side of the paste to within one 
 inch of the extreme edge. Then with your right hand fold the paste 
 that has no butter upon it upon that which has. This must be done 
 neatly and with precision, so as to make the extreme edges meet uni¬ 
 formly. Then lift the entire body of paste, and throw a little flour over 
 the slab to enable you to roll your paste out easily. Now turn that part 
 of the paste where the butter was first placed towards you, close w r ith 
 your fingers the paste all round the half oval, so as to prevent the butter 
 
MACARONI AU PARMESAN. 
 
 503 
 
 squeezing out while you are rolling out the same, which you must do 
 till the paste is of a uniform thickness of about half an inch, and which 
 should present as nearly as possible a square sheet. 
 
 Now proceed as follows : Fold the end near you into the middle, 
 then take the extreme end before you, and let this overlap exactly your 
 first fold. Now take the left-hand side of the paste and fold this into 
 the middle of the oblong square before you. Then fold the right hand 
 side of the paste exactly and evenly over this, so that your paste presents 
 a square piece. Then let the paste lay for another ten minutes, when 
 roll it out again to the thickness of half an inch, and proceed to fold it 
 as in the first instance, repeating this process four times over, taking care 
 that the paste lays , as we say, ten minutes or a quarter of an hour 
 between each roll, and an extra quarter before you cut it out to place it 
 in the oven. 
 
 This paste should have been prepared first thing in the morning, and 
 kept on some ice so as to become nice and mellow, and which should 
 have been kept covered over with a damp cloth. Now roll the half of 
 the same into a thin, even sheet, about as thick as a bronze penny, and 
 about as large as a crown piece. They should be cut out with a fluted 
 patty-cutter, and placed in ordinary tartlet tins, turning each one upside 
 down as you place them in the tins, pressing the two middle fingers of 
 the right hand in the centre of each rather firmly, so as to leave their 
 impression on the same, and with your fingers and thumbs squeeze up 
 the edge of the paste all round the edge of the tartlet tin, and place an 
 equal quantity of the maid of honour curd, about the size of a walnut, 
 in each; then with a fork prick each maid of honour once or twice, 
 letting the fork go right through to the tin. Bake in an oven not too 
 hot, letting your maids of honour be of a nice golden colour. When 
 cold, dish about fifteen on a silver dish or plate, with a dessert paper 
 under them, and serve. 
 
 Compote of Oranges. —See instructions given on page 179. 
 
 SAVOURY ENTREMETS. 
 
 Macaroni au Parmesan. —Boil a quarter of a pound of Italian 
 macaroni in a quart of water, placing in the water two ounces of butter. 
 
504 WILD DUCKS, STEWED A LA BEGARRADE. 
 
 When quite tender, place the macaroni in cold water, and then cut it 
 into half-inch lengths ; dry the same in a cloth, and mix with half a pint 
 of cold bechemelle sauce, sprinkling in as you do it a quarter pound of 
 grated Parmesan cheese, adding a little salt, cayenne, and also a little 
 white pepper, and a teaspoonful of fresh-made mustard. Fill the num¬ 
 ber of cases required with this mixture, and sprinkle a little grated 
 Parmesan on each, and run a very little clarified butter over the 
 Parmesan which you have placed on each. A moderate oven should 
 suffice ; and take care they are of a light gold colour when served. 
 
 SELECTED ENTREES. 
 
 Wild Ducks Stewed a la Begarrade. —Prepare the two wild 
 ducks by roasting them of a light colour the day previous, then cut them 
 up the same as for the above, and mark them off in two stewpans. Cut 
 also twenty-four croustades, as therein instructed, and build them up on 
 two entree dishes and place in the screen. 
 
 The backs also should be chopped up fine, and with the trimmings 
 placed in a stewpan with half a pint of best stock and one gill of sherry, 
 and allowed to very gently simmer for about one hour, when the essence 
 should be strained off and w r ell skimmed, and added to one pint of 
 Espagnol sauce, which place on the fire to boil. Then with a small and 
 very sharp knife peel off from two Seville oranges four strips from top 
 to bottom, keeping the peel as thin as possible, and about three-quarters 
 of an inch wide. 
 
 When the strips are cut off, lay each on the dresser, and remove all 
 the white pith, and cut them into very fine shreds, so as to resemble 
 Julienne roots. When all are thus cut, throw them into some boiling 
 water, and let them boil for one minute, when strain them off, and put 
 them into the Espagnol sauce. Then cut the two Seville oranges in 
 halves, and squeeze all the juice you can obtain from them into a kitchen 
 pan, after which add the same to the Espagnol sauce, which should 
 be allowed to boil for a few minutes, when add a little salt and a little 
 cayenne pepper. Then divide it between the two cut-up wild ducks, 
 and in this let them very gently simmer for ten minutes, adding a couple 
 of spoonfuls of best gravy to each. They should be then dished up in 
 
ENTRIES OF WIDGEON AND TEAL. 
 
 505 
 
 the centre of the built-up croustades on the two entree dishes. When 
 wanted for table, pour a little of the sauce over them, and the rest round 
 the croustades, and send to table. 
 
 Wild Ducks Grilled Sauce Piquant. —Roast off two wild ducks, 
 and when cutting them up, make the different members a little larger; 
 and also use the backs—thus : five pieces from the breast, and four 
 from the quarters, and two from the back of each. Before grilling them 
 they should be, with the exception of the backs, neatly scored with a 
 sharp knife, and moistened with a little clarified butter. Grill them very 
 lightly, and take care not to burn them. They should be built up on 
 some very nice potato paste, and a good piquant sauce served round 
 them ; and a little glaze should be lightly run over the wild ducks, and 
 a little cayenne pepper and salt mixed together should be sprinkled over 
 them before sending to table. 
 
 Saute of Wild Ducks a l’lndienne. —Braize two wild duclis 
 trussed for roasting in the stock-pot, for one hour the day previous to 
 their being needed. Then cut them up as the above, and fry them in 
 a little salad oil till of a light-brown colour. The pieces should be fried 
 with the skin side down, and when done placed in a stewpan with one 
 pint of curry sauce, made the same as for the curry of pheasants, 
 described a few pages past, in which place the pieces of wild duck, and 
 then adding about one gill of stock, let gently boil for fifteen minutes, 
 during which time boil off one pound of Carolina rice, which, when 
 tender and will smash easily between the finger and thumb, is then 
 ready to strain off in a hair sieve. And when you have done so, pour 
 another two quarts of hot water over the same, and let drain for ten 
 minutes. Then form two borders of plain boiled rice round the sides of 
 the entree dishes, and dish the wild fowl in the centre, picking out the 
 number and proper pieces belonging to each wild duck, and place the 
 rough pieces at the bottom and the prime pieces at the top. 
 
 When sending to table, make the sauce boiling hot, and pour it gently 
 over each dish in the centre, and send to table. A dish of plain boiled 
 rice should be sent with these two entrees to table. 
 
 Entrees of Widgeon and Teal can be made into entrees in the 
 same manner as the wild ducks have been done in the entrees described. 
 
50 6 
 
 LIST OF DISHES A L’ANGLAISE. 
 
 ROAST, BOILED, AND BRAIZED DISHES OF BEEF, MUT¬ 
 TON, LAMB, VEAL, AND PORK, A L’ANGLAISE, 
 
 FOR WHAT MIGHT BE TERMED TOP OR REMOVE DISHES. 
 
 LIST OF DISHES OF BEEF. 
 
 Roast Ribs of Beef. 
 Roast Sirloin of Beef. 
 Boiled Round of Beef. 
 Braized Brisket of Beef. 
 Braized Ribs of Beef. 
 
 Braized Fillet of Beef. 
 Braized Sirloin of Beef. 
 Salt Silver-side of Beef. 
 Aitch-bone of Beef. 
 
 LIST OF DISHES OF MUTTON. 
 
 Roast Saddle of Mutton. 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton, 
 Roast Leg of Mutton. 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton. 
 
 Roast Loin of Mutton. 
 Roast Shoulder of Mutton. 
 Boiled Neck of Mutton. 
 
 LIST OF 
 
 Roast Haunch of Lamb. 
 Roast Quarter of Lamb. 
 Roast Shoulder of Lamb. 
 
 DISHES OF LAMB. 
 
 Roast Leg of Lamb. 
 Braized Saddle of Lamb. 
 Braized Shoulder of Lamb. 
 
 ROAST 
 
 Roast Fillet of Veal. 
 
 t 
 
 Roast Neck of Veal. 
 Roast Loin of Veal. 
 
 DISHES OF VEAL, 
 
 Braized Breast of Veal. 
 Braized Fricandeau of Veal. 
 Braized Knuckles of Veal. 
 
 ROAST AND BOILED DISHES OF PORK. 
 
 Roast Leg of Pork. Boiled Leg of Pork. 
 
 Roast Loin of Pork. Braized Belly of Pork. 
 
 The above list of dishes comprises such as form our old English 
 style of plain and simple cookery, as well as those forming part of our 
 best style of dinners; and we have thought it but right to give a list in 
 our work as well as all particulars in reference to cooking the same. 
 
ROAST RIBS OF BEEF. 
 
 So 7 
 
 Sirloin of Roast Beef. —Take a nice sirloin, of about twelve 
 pounds, or smaller if needed. Cut part of the suet from the same, and 
 cut away the piece of pith or gristle which runs along by the chine bones, 
 the pieces of which should also be removed, or run your small knife so 
 as to cut through the same. It should be skewered tightly, and slowly 
 roasted for three hours, which will be about the time needed. Be 
 particular to put it down to a good fire, and one which will last that 
 time. When about half done, place an ordinary sized oblong tin for 
 the dripping to run into, in which place a batter pudding, made as 
 follows :—One pound of flour, eight eggs, one pint and a half of milk, 
 and about half a teaspoonful of salt. When cracking the eggs be 
 particular to smell each one separately, and when all are cracked beat 
 up well with a wire whisk. Then pour the milk over the flour in a 
 basin, which mix smoothly with the milk, and then well beat in the eggs, 
 also add the salt, then strain this through a pointed tin strainer ; place 
 it in the oblong tin dish, and let it remain so as to receive the fat which 
 runs from the beef, by placing it in the dripping-pan, and letting it 
 remain there for about one hour. Then finish this by placing the 
 pudding in the oven. The mixture given will make an excellent 
 pudding, and when thoroughly well done, and nice and brown, it should 
 be cut in square pieces, and a little salt sprinkled over it. It should be 
 sent to table with the beef. Be particular that some really good beef 
 gravy is sent to table with the beef; also, in a boat, some horseradish 
 sauce, made as follows :— 
 
 Grate a stick of horseradish very fine, and mix it with a gill of cream, 
 pepper, and salt, half a gill of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of fresh-made 
 mustard. These should be mixed together, and sent to table with the 
 beef; also some plain scraped horseradish. 
 
 Roast Ribs of Beef.—Saw through the tops of the ribs, and with 
 your small knife carefully remove these pieces of the rib-bones, when 
 the flesh should overlap the top of the other rib-bones. And remove 
 or cut through the pith which runs along under the 'skin at the top end. 
 If a skewer or two is used to fasten the meat at the top of the ribs, so 
 much the better. And if the ribs are about the same weight as the 
 sirloin, it will take about the same time. A batter pudding should also 
 
508 
 
 BRAIZED BRISKET OF BEEF. 
 
 be sent to table with it, as for the sirloin ; also horseradish sauce, and 
 plain scraped horseradish, and some best bright gravy. 
 
 Braized Brisket of Beef, Salted and Fresh. —Take a piece 
 of brisket of beef, of about sixteen pounds weight, and let it be a prime 
 cut from meat of the best quality. Cut out the bone, and tie it up 
 with what is termed beggar’s tape into a nice roll; and it should be tied 
 up as lightly as possible and placed in an oval stewpan and well covered 
 with water. Let the bones be cut up and placed round it, with a large 
 head of white celery, three onions, three carrots, and a large bouquet of 
 thyme, parsley, and bay-leaf. When it boils let it be well skimmed, 
 then allowed to boil very slowly for three hours. Then try it with a 
 thin wooden skewer, to be sure it is quite done: if the skewer 
 passes into the brisket very readily and easily, it should then, if needed 
 to be cold, be put to press between two large dishes, with a fourteen- 
 pound weight on the top dish, till the next day. Then it should be 
 neatly trimmed, and some of the stock in which it was boiled made into 
 glaze, and with this it should be well glazed, and ornamented with a 
 little aspic jelly, and a few flowers cut from vegetables should be used 
 to ornament it with; also a little scraped horseradish. 
 
 It forms an excellent dish for breakfast or luncheon, and is far better 
 than if salted. But if needed to look, as the French say, ecarlate , or 
 red like a tongue, after you have cut the bones from it, rub it well on 
 the underneath side, or on that part from which you cut the bones, with 
 two pounds of salt with which you have mixed about two ounces of salt¬ 
 petre and half a pound of powdered lump sugar. Place it on a large 
 china dish. When you rub it with the above, a teacup of water should 
 be added, and it should be well rubbed night and morning for two days 
 before boiling, when it should be tied up tightly, removing as much of 
 the pickle from it as possible; and it should be boiled for about three 
 hours in all respects the same as for the fresh brisket, which we have 
 described above. When cold, it should be sent to table in the same 
 way ; and as the stock will be too salt to use for any purpose, you can 
 place in the water in which it is boiling a good handful of mixed spice, 
 such as peppercorns, mace, cloves, allspice, and coriander seed, which 
 will give it a flavour of spice to those who may approve of this. 
 
BRAIZED RIBS OF BEEF. 
 
 509 
 
 Brisket of Beef a la Jardiniere. —For this you must prepare 
 about one quart of jardiniere vegetables, cut rather large , of carrots, 
 turnips, parsnips, and onions ; cut into nice-shaped pieces about one 
 inch in size. When all are prepared, place them in a stewpan of boiling 
 water, and let them boil up in the same. Then strain them on a hair 
 sieve ; after which place them back in the stewpan with a teaspoonful 
 of salt and the same of powdered lump sugar, and cover them with 
 some of the stock or broth in which the beef is boiling. 
 
 They should boil gently in this till tender ; then place aside till you 
 need them, and when the brisket has boiled in the stock nearly three 
 hours, mix about one quart of its gravy into brown sauce with some 
 brown roux or thickening; then when nicely finished and freed from 
 grease, and of the right consistence, boil off about one pint and a 
 half of Brussels sprouts till nicely tender. 
 
 Now, supposing it is time for sending the brisket to table, lift it from 
 the broth on to a tin dish, and untie the tape from the same; trim the 
 ends slightly, and well glaze the same, letting it dry in the oven. 
 Then give it another coat of glaze. After which place it on the dish 
 upon which it is to go to table, and place the jardiniere roots in about 
 four piles round the same, then sauce and send away. 
 
 Braized Ribs of Beef.—Take a piece of ribs of beef containing 
 two ribs, and take care that the same is as plump-looking as possible, 
 and the rib-bones are only of medium length. Then cut up into one 
 dozen lengths of about four inches long and a quarter of an inch square 
 one pound of fat bacon. Next chop up a small handful of picked 
 parsley, with four shalots, very fine indeed, with which mix a teaspoonful 
 of herbaceous mixture, and then roll each piece of bacon in the pre¬ 
 pared chopped parsley, and with a daubing pin (a kind of large larding 
 pin), or with your small knife, cut a dozen holes through the prime of the 
 lean part of the ribs of beef, and in each hole you make, fix in the same 
 one of the pieces of bacon, and, when finished, let remain till next day 
 between two china dishes the ribs of beef. Then cut up a few stock- 
 pot vegetables rather fine, but roughly. Afterwards place in an oval 
 braizing-pan the ribs of beef, and place the cut vegetables round it. But 
 let me remark that the ribs of beef, previously to placing the same in the 
 
BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF. 
 
 510 
 
 oval braizing-pan, should be bound up lightly with some beggar’s tape, 
 so as to keep it smoothly and compactly together. When thus arranged, 
 or having been done, place some second stock and some water round 
 the beef, and when it boils, let it continue to gently simmer for about 
 two hours, or perhaps a little longer. But it is best to try it with a 
 sharp-pointed wooden skewer, when, if it passes through the beef easily, 
 you may be sure it is done, and let it remain in the stewpan till the 
 next day. 
 
 Then take it out of the braize, untie the tape, and trim it nicely. 
 Then place the stewpan on the fire, and when the contents have become 
 warm, strain off the liquor into a kitchen-pan, and have the braizing 
 washed off, and place the beef on a strainer, and again place it in the 
 braizing-pan with the broth which came from it, but not the vegetables, 
 and make it hot in this, and serve it with a tomato sauce or a piquant 
 sauce after the same has been nicely glazed. Or you can serve it a la 
 jardiniere, or with dressed macaroni, or with stewed haricot beans, after 
 the same have been standing in water all night, and then boiled till 
 tender, when place them in a good Espagnol or tomato sauce, and serve. 
 This dish is an excellent one for a small party of eight or ten to dinner. 
 It is also an excellent dish for serving cold for luncheon or breakfast, 
 when it should be garnished with aspic jelly. 
 
 Braized Fillet of Beef, larded. — Take the fillet of beef from the 
 sirloin, and when the whole of the fat and suet has been trimmed from 
 the same, let it be nicely larded. Then it should be placed in a 
 suitable-sized braizing-pan upon a strainer. Cut up a few stockpot 
 vegetables rather fine, and place them round the fillet, with about a 
 quart of second stock and a pint of cold water. It should be covered 
 closely down, and allowed to slowly cook for about two hours. Now try 
 it. with a pointed wooden skewer, which if it passes through the fillet 
 easily it is done. It should then be lifted out of the braizing-kettle on 
 to a china dish. But before doing so, remove all the vegetables from the 
 strainer. Then slide it on to a clean but common oval dish. Then it 
 should be placed in the oven to dry the larding, when it should be nicely 
 glazed, and allowed to dry in the oven for about five minutes, when it 
 should be larded again, and still allowed to stand in the oven with the 
 
SILVERSIDE OF SALT BEEF. 
 
 511 
 
 door open for about another five minutes ; and when the larding shows 
 bright and glossy, place it upon the dish on which it will go to table. 
 Serve round it a well-seasoned mushroom sauce, or a well-made tomato 
 sauce, or tomatoes a la moderne with Espagnol sauce, or a la jardiniere, 
 the whole of which will be found in the Index. 
 
 Braized Sirloin of Beef. —You will need a very prime sirloin, 
 not too fat, and of about 12 pounds, for this, and cut as plump as 
 possible. Then with a sharp knife cut the skin’from the lean beef, so as 
 to enable you to fold one part of the same under the other (taking care 
 to cut the pith from the extreme edge). Trim this as thinly as possible, 
 so that it will evenly fold, when it should be skewered down with three 
 or four small wooden skewers ; and the lean part , which will be then 
 exposed or laid bare, should be fully and neatly larded. After this, cut 
 away as much as possible of the surplus fat, and skewer up the piece of 
 sirloin with some long wooden skewers, which should be securely 
 fastened with string. Then mark it off in a braizing pan exactly as for 
 the fillet of beef, and place it for two hours and a half to cook, when it 
 should be glazed (if nicely done), that is to say, the fat and the part 
 that had been larded. When this shows nice and bright, place it 
 upon the dish on which it will go to table. Then serve with any of the 
 sauces or garnitures recommended above for the fillet of beef, and take 
 care to send very hot to table, and that the sauce is at the boiling point 
 when saucing. 
 
 Silverside of Salt Beef, about Eight or Twelve Pounds. 
 
 —The best way is to order this from the butcher three days before you 
 need it, with instructions that it should only be in pickle two days, or 
 you can salt it yourself, as directed for the brisket a few pages back. 
 It will require gently boiling in plain water for two hours and a half 
 or three hours, and the vegetables, carrots, turnips, and parsnips should 
 boil with the salt beef for about half the time as the beef: but when 
 you find them tender, place them in a clean stewpan with about one 
 quart of the liquor the beef has been boiling in. There should also be 
 a few suet dumplings boiled with the beef, and made as follows :— 
 
 Chop half a pound of suet very fine, and mix it with one pound of 
 flour, then mix it into a nice stiff paste, adding a little salt. Then 
 
512 
 
 BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 
 
 make this into round balls of the same size, and about one inch and a 
 quarter wide or in diameter. These, when finished, should boil with 
 the beef for about one hour. After this, when all are nicely done (and 
 let me say it is necessary to see that your beef keeps boiling the time 
 specified), and when you dish it up make the vegetables hot, which 
 serve in piles round the beef, and place the dumplings between, and 
 serve. Some green vegetable, such as savoy cabbage or Brussels 
 sprouts, as well as potatoes, should be served with salt beef. 
 
 Aitch-bone of Salt Beef. —This should be boiled, if a fine one, 
 about the same time as the silverside above. The same vegetables 
 and dumplings should be served for both the above. Some of the 
 liquor in which the beef was boiled should be poured round boiling 
 hot before leaving the kitchen. 
 
 Roast Saddle of Mutton.—I must refer the reader to the 
 Index for saddle of mutton, where all particulars are told. 
 
 Roast Haunch of Mutton.— This will be found at page 152, 
 with all particulars appertaining to the same. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton. — The Index will point out the page con¬ 
 taining particulars of roast leg of mutton. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton.— Select a fresh leg of mutton. Place on 
 the fire a stewpan of water large enough to hold the leg. Then saw off 
 the shank-bone ; trim off a portion of the flap, and cut a slight slit in 
 the joint of the leg, so that it will plump the more. When the water 
 boils, place the leg in it, so that it shall be covered, and bring to the 
 boil again as quickly as possible. Be particular to notice the time, and 
 if it is a large leg it will take fully three hours’ gentle boiling to well cook 
 the same. 
 
 When boiling, prepare six carrots and turnips— the turnips in quarters 
 and the carrots the same. These will take about one hour and a quarter 
 to cook, and should be placed to boil with the mutton, at your con¬ 
 venience. There should be also a good large dish of mashed turnips, 
 as well as those to garnish the leg with, which should be prepared and 
 boiled in a separate stewpan in plain water with a good handful of salt 
 in it, and, when thoroughly tender, they should be pressed on a hair 
 sieve, so as to press all the water out of them ; then they should be 
 
ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 
 
 513 
 
 chopped up very fine, and placed in a stewpan, and nicely seasoned with 
 pepper and salt, and three pats of butter and about one gill of double 
 cream, and placed on the side of the hot-plate when needed to keep hot. 
 
 The Caper Sauqe. —Place about a pint and a half of the stock in 
 which the leg of mutton was boiled on the fire to boil, and while doing 
 so, mix four good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour with about one gill of 
 water, and when smoothly mixed, strain this through a pointed tin 
 strainer, adding a little more water if needed. When the pint and a half 
 of slock is boiling, pour into it the mixed flour and water, using a 
 clean wire whisk to stir it in. Then draw back a little, and let it boil, 
 after which stir in about six ounces of butter, a little salt and white 
 pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, and a small bottle of capers. Now 
 look to the sauce, which should be about as thick as double cream. 
 
 Then look to the vegetables boiling with the leg of mutton, and if 
 done, place them in a stewpan, and pour a little stock over them from 
 the leg of mutton, which we will suppose has boiled three hours, and is 
 now needed to go to table. So place the leg carefully on the dish, 
 and the quartered turnips and carrots round it, with a little of the liquor 
 in which the leg was boiled, and pour some of the caper sauce (about 
 half) over the leg; and send the prepared mashed turnips and a dish 
 of plain boiled potatoes to table with the leg of mutton, and the 
 remainder of the caper sauce in a sauce boat. 
 
 Roast Loin of Mutton. —This should be carefully jointed, and 
 then put down to roast for about one hour and a half. Be careful to 
 baste it well, and send to table with some best gravy and a small pot of 
 red currant jelly in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Roast Shoulder of Mutton with Onion Sauce. —Cut off the 
 shank-bone, and trim off any small patches of brown skin that may 
 show upon it, and let it roast for one hour and three quarters very 
 gently, and while it is progressing make an onion sauce as follows : 
 Cut up six white onions in slices, and let them boil in about one quart 
 of water with a little salt in it till tender ; when strain them on a hair 
 sieve; after which chop them up fine with two tablespoonfuls of flour. 
 Then make three parts of a pint of milk to boil. Next place the chopped 
 
 onions in a quart stewpan, and with a wooden spoon mix the boiling 
 
 2 P 
 
5i4 
 
 ROAST HAUNCH OF LAMB. 
 
 milk a little at a time with the onions and flour, and place on the hot¬ 
 plate to boil, stirring till it does boil, which let it continue to do for 
 a couple of minutes; after which, stir in two pats of butter and a little 
 salt and white pepper; and when your mutton has roasted the time 
 specified, and you have to send it table, place a ruffle on the shoulder 
 bone, and send it to table w'ith some good gravy under it, and the onion 
 sauce in a boat. These small joints come in very nicely for dinners en 
 famille , and for luncheon, and can be served with tomato sauce, Espagnol, 
 or piquant sauce, for a change. 
 
 Boiled Neck of Mutton. —Cut off the scrag end of the neck, 
 and the chine bone, as if preparing for cutlets. Then saw through the rib- 
 bones in a straight line, leaving about three inches towards the fillet. 
 But be very careful to not saw through that part which is called the tops of 
 the ribs, but only through the bones. Then remove with your small knife 
 the surplus bones called the tops of the ribs, and when they have been 
 cut out, cut the flesh from which you removed them in a straight line, so 
 as to keep the neck even and uniform all through. After this, turn the 
 neck over on your cutting-board, and cut aw r ay a great part of the sur¬ 
 face fat, and the little gristle there found. Then fold over that piece of 
 meat from which you cut out the tops of the ribs upon the rib-bones 
 left remaining in the neck, and with a little twine tie them together. 
 Then collect all your trimmings and cut them up small, and add about 
 three pints of water to the same. When it boils, place in it the trimmed 
 neck of mutton, and let it boil gently for about one hour and a half, 
 by which time it should be nicely cooked. Then take it up and glaze it 
 with some best glaze, and send it to table with a well-made tomato sauce, 
 or with a brown caper sauce (a few capers and a little vinegar, put in 
 half a pint of Espagnol sauce) or maitre d’hotel sauce. A few potato 
 croquettes and a nice dish of mashed turnips, would suit as the vege¬ 
 tables for this excellent little remove dish. Excellently suited for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 LIST OF DISHES OF LAMB. 
 
 Roast Haunch of Lamb.—I must refer the reader to the Index, 
 where he will find the page containing particulars of how to trim, to 
 to roast, and serve the above. 
 
BRAIZED SHOULDER OF LAMB. 515 
 
 Roast Fore Quarter of Lamb. —Particulars as above will be 
 found in the Index regarding this very excellent remove. 
 
 Roast Shoulder of Lamb. —Saw off the shank-bone, and trim 
 from the surface any brown spots of skin, and roast it very gently for 
 about an hour and a half; serve it with some good gravy under it, also 
 with mint sauce; and let the shoulder be as fine a one as you can 
 obtain. 
 
 Roast Leg of Lamb. —Saw off the shank-bone, and any superfluity 
 which needs removal cut away. Then place it to roast for two hours, 
 and be careful to roast it slowly, and frequently baste the same, and 
 keep it of a bright gold tint, and send some best gravy under it, and 
 mint sauce in a boat. 
 
 Braized Saddle of Lamb, Boned and Farced. —The manner 
 of preparing this, to be served cold, will be found on page 2 2 2 t 
 Proceed in a similar manner to prepare it hot, round which you 
 can serve a macedoine of vegetables, or a ragout a la financiere or a la 
 Toulouse. It can also be served with an imperial sauce, or with a 
 poivrade sauce. For the above-mentioned sauces see Index. 
 
 Braized Shoulder of Lamb, Farcie aux Coucombres.— Saw 
 off the shank-bone, and cut a little of the underneath meat away. Then 
 very carefully remove the blade-bone, and half the shoulder-bone, to 
 which it was attached. Then pound in the mortar one pound and a half of 
 pork sausage meat, which should be then passed, or rubbed, through a 
 wire sieve. 
 
 Now chop up about one dozen of preserved mushrooms and a small 
 handful of parsley, from which the stalks have been picked, and also a 
 couple of slices of lean ham (raw or dressed). Add this to the sausage 
 meat. Then add a little herbaceous mixture, and pepper and salt, 
 and very little cayenne. Mix these well together. Then place this in 
 the aperture from which the bones have been removed. It should be 
 placed in the centre of the shoulder, and the parts which have been 
 made to be partly turned aside should be again made to unite, and cover 
 the farce placed inside as neatly as possible. 
 
 Then take a packing-needle, and pass about two yards of twine 
 
 through the eye of the needle, and tie the ends in a knot, and now with 
 
 2 P 2 
 
CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 516 
 
 your packing-needle and thread form a reeving string around the extreme 
 edge of the shoulder of lamb, placing the needle into the edge of the 
 meat all round, at about half an inch apart, letting the string go over 
 and over regularly all round the edge of the shoulder, and drawing it 
 slightly (the edge of the shoulder) as you go on : and when you have 
 passed the string all round, draw both ends together as tightly as you 
 can, and tie them in a knot; thus making what was originally a flat sur¬ 
 face as round and as plump as a leg of lamb. This completed, place 
 it in a stewpan of suitable size, the reeving string part on the bottom ot 
 the stewpan, and pour over it a pint of second stock ; but a little piece 
 of string should be tied round the knuckle, and a good handful of stock- 
 pot vegetables should be cut up small, and placed in with the prepared 
 shoulder of lamb. It should be then brought slowly to the boil, and 
 allowed to simmer gently for an hour and a half; when draw it aside 
 on the hot-plate where it cannot boil. Then prepare the cucumbers 
 for the same. 
 
 Cucumber Sauce.— Peel an even-grown cucumber (of about one 
 inch in diameter) very thin, after which cut it in two, then divide each 
 half again in two. After this cut away the seed part from the centre, 
 and then cut each quarter into even lengths of about one inch. Now 
 with your small cooking-knife round off the sharp edges from the ends 
 of each separate piece of cucumber. As you thus prepare them place 
 them in a quart kitchen-pan containing one pint of water, with a tea¬ 
 spoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar. When all the 
 pieces have been trimmed, place a quart of water in a stewpan on the 
 hot-plate to boil, and put a little salt (half a teaspoonful) in the same, 
 and when boiling, place in it the pieces of cucumber, and let them boil 
 in this for about two minutes, when strain them off and place them in 
 •cold water, which is to set their colour. 
 
 Then place them back in the stewpan, and just cover them with 
 some best gravy, and place with them a pat of butter, and a spoonful of 
 vinegar, when they should gently simmer till tender. Mark off also half 
 a pint of Espagnol sauce, and when serving the lamb the string round 
 the border should be cut through in several places and pulled out, also 
 the piece of string tied round the knuckle, when it should be nicely 
 
ROAST NECK OF VEAL. 
 
 517 
 
 glazed, and the cucumbers placed in two piles beside; the Espagnol 
 sauce poured round it very hot before sending to table. You can also 
 serve with it tomato sauce or serve it a la jardiniere. This also makes 
 a very nice dish served cold with a ruffle round the shoulder-bone, 
 when it has been glazed and dished upon some shred lettuce cut as 
 fine as possible, and some chopped aspic jelly, and croutons of aspic 
 jelly round it, and a star of the same in the centre of the top, and then 
 sent to table. 
 
 Roast Fillet of Veal a l’Anglaise. —Cut off the knuckle from a 
 leg of veal a little above the projection in the leg, Then cut out the 
 central bone. Now make a veal stuffing. Chop up half a pound of 
 suet fine, then a small handful of picked parsley, with a little green 
 lemon thyme, to which add one pound of fresh-made bread crumbs, 
 and a little white pepper, and salt. Mix these well together with a 
 couple or three eggs, so as to form a paste, which place in the centre. 
 Where you cut out the bone, a piece of buttered foolscap paper, cut 
 round, should be placed over the stuffing at the top and bottom, 
 when about three wooden skewers should be passed through the fillet 
 of veal, and then it should be tied up neatly and compactly with string, 
 and then roasted, taking care not to place it too near the fire, and it 
 should take about two hours and a half to three hours to cook it; and 
 a small ham or a nice piece of streaky bacon should be cooked, and 
 sent to table with it. 
 
 When sending up for dinner, be particular to remove all the string 
 with which it was tied up. And pour about half a pint of butter sauce 
 over the top, and a good Espagnol sauce round it, and send away. The 
 ham or bacon should be neatly trimmed, and some green vegetables 
 served round the same, after they have been nicely glazed. Broad beans 
 or scarlet runners, or dressed spinach with plain boiled potatoes, are 
 suitable to serve this old English dish, and a good tomato sauce would 
 also suit admirably to send with a roast fillet of veal. 
 
 Roast Neck of Veal. —Cut off the scrag and the chine bones after 
 the manner of a neck of mutton when preparing it for cutlets, and 
 remove the piece of gristle which runs along the fillet, and saw off about 
 one inch of the tops of the ribs, so as to enable you to give it a better 
 
5 1 8 
 
 BRAIZED BREAST OF VEAL. 
 
 shape. Then pass three wooden skewers through the one side to the 
 other; then turn the neck upside down, and secure the skewers with a 
 piece of string. 
 
 The usual method of roasting it is to run an iron skewer through the 
 length of the neck, and then tie it on to the spit at the end. It will 
 take about one hour and three quarters to nicely roast ; and a 
 piece of streaky bacon should be boiled off to serve with the roast 
 neck of veal, and a sauce of tomatoes, or piquant, or poivrade can 
 be sent round with it, or a good mushroom sauce, or plain 
 Espagnol. 
 
 Braized Breast of Veal. — Saw off the piece of hard bone belong¬ 
 ing to the chine. Then cut out the gristly parts from which the tendons 
 of veal are made, separating the rib-bones from the same. Then pound 
 in a mortar two pounds of sausage meat, which afterwards rub through 
 a rather coarse wire sieve. Next cut a few slices of tongue into dice¬ 
 shaped pieces, also about half a pound of streaky bacon, and about 
 eight truffles into the same shape pieces as near as possible, and chop 
 up about one dozen canister champignons, and mix these together with 
 the sausage meat, adding a little herbaceous mixture and a little cayenne 
 pepper. Now trim off the rough parts from the breast of veal, and then 
 spread the prepared sausage meat over the surface and roll it up as tightly 
 as you can, so as to make a plump roll, when it should be tied up in a 
 cloth as tightly as possible at each end ; then place it in a suitably-sized 
 stewpan, adding to it a couple of quarts of second stock, in which let it 
 boil for two hours very gently. When about to send to table, remove it 
 from the cloth, and place it on a saute-pan, and put it in the oven to dry; 
 then give it a couple of coatings over of glaze, and serve it a la jardiniere, 
 or with a good mushroom sauce, or a chestnut sauce, or a tomato sauce, 
 and send to table. 
 
 Note .—This dish is also excellent for serving cold as a galantine, and 
 when for this purpose, and you have taken it up and undone the cloth, 
 and had it washed, tie it up again, very tightly, and let it be pressed 
 between two dishes, with a fourteen pound weight upon it. Let 
 it so remain till the next day, when it should be taken from the cloth 
 and nicely glazed, and dished upon some lettuce cut up extremely fine, 
 
BRAIZED FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. 5 IQ 
 
 and garnished with chopped aspic jelly, also some croutons of aspic jelly 
 round it. 
 
 Braized Fricandeau of Veal. —This is the nut, or solid piece of 
 veal , cut from the prime part of the leg. When you have freed it from 
 a few rough pieces which adhere to it, turn the top or smooth part of 
 the fricandeau on to the cutting-board. Then give it a few pats with 
 the flat part of the cutlet chopper, so as to bring its surface level on the 
 board. After this, with a good sharp knife in your right hand, and your 
 left hand pressing on the fricandeau, cut off the thin surface from the 
 same, which should be done with one sweep of the knife. This being 
 accomplished, let the same be very nicely and artistically larded. When 
 finished, cut a hole in the centre, and in this fix a large jam pot, one 
 which would hold one pou?id of jam would suil admirably. Then place it 
 in a fricandeau braizing-pan and add round it one pint of best stock. 
 Then cut up a couple of onions very thin, and the yellow part of a carrot, 
 also one small head of celery, and make a bouquet of thyme and 
 parsley and bay-leaf, and place these round the fricandeau. Then cut 
 a few slices of thin fat bacon, about as thin as an old shilling, which 
 place over the fricandeau. 
 
 To cook the same for dinner, it should be covered very closely, and 
 the braizing-pan containing it should be of good thickness; about one 
 hour and a half, or if it is a very fine one, nearly two hours is the time 
 it will take to slowly cook, and the same should be frequently attended 
 to during that time, and carefully basted with the liquor round it. 
 When you think it is done, remove the cover, also the bacon from the 
 top, and leave it thus till you see the larding has began to spring up. 
 Then with some best glaze, not too thick, glaze it over (the larding) 
 several times, and still keep the cover off till you see the larding look 
 bright and glossy. Then remove the china pot from the centre, and 
 carefully, with a slice, remove it from the braizing-pan on to a dish, 
 and remove any bits of vegetable adhering. It should then be placed 
 on the dish upon which it is to go to table. The gravy in which it was 
 cooked should be strained through a pointed strainer, and reduced to a 
 demi-glaze. 
 
 Serve with a ragout h. la financiers, the ragout piled in the hole in 
 
520 
 
 BRAIZED KNUCKLES OF VEAL. 
 
 the centre, and the sauce, after the demi-glaze has been added to it, and 
 it has reduced, should be poured round it and sent to table. You can 
 also serve asparagus peas in the centre, or real peas, or a macedoine of 
 vegetables, and serve either a white or brown sauce with it. Let me 
 add that in these economical times this dish would serve as a remove, 
 and should be then served on a flat oval dish. 
 
 Braized Knuckles of Veal and Rice a l’Anglaise. —Cut 
 off the bone part of two fine knuckles of veal, and place them in a stew- 
 pan of a suitable size, with about two quarts of water. Place this on 
 the hot-plate to boil, and take care to skim well when coming to the 
 boil. Cover them close, and let gently simmer for two hours. While 
 thus proceeding, boil half a pound of Carolina rice in three quarts of 
 water for a couple of minutes ; then strain it on a sieve. When your 
 knuckles of veal have boiled one hour and a half, add the rice to them, 
 and let it boil with them for half an hour, adding a little salt to them, or 
 rather, sprinkle it over the rice. Then chop up rather fine a large 
 handful of parsley from which the stalks have been picked; when 
 chopped, place it in a pointed tin strainer, and have about one quart of 
 boiling water on the hot-plate in which has been placed a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and in this hold the strainer containing the parsley for a 
 minute. 
 
 When withdrawn, dry the parsley on a kitchen cloth, and then place 
 it in a small kitchen-pan till you need it. There should be a piece of 
 streaky bacon, about two pounds, boiled off to send to table with the 
 rice, which, when done, should be cut in neat slices, but still leaning 
 closely on each other, and send to table with the knuckles of veal. We 
 will now, so to speak, dish up the knuckles, supposing that they are 
 nicely done. Let me also remark that if the rice appears all right, you 
 should stir the scalded parsley into the same, and pour it in the 
 centre, both over and round the knuckles of veal, and send to table; 
 also place round it the streaky bacon, not forgetting some nicely- 
 boiled potatoes, and any other seasonable vegetable should be sent 
 to table with the same. This dish is what might be considered 
 a rough one, but I have invariably seen it partaken of with great 
 avidity. 
 
BOILED LEG OF PORK A L’ANGLAISE. 
 
 5-1 
 
 ROAST AND BOILED DISHES OF PORK. 
 
 Roast Leg of Pork. —Saw off the shank-bone from a small¬ 
 sized leg of pork, of about seven pounds weight. It should not be placed 
 too near the fire, but should be steadily roasted ; for nothing looks so 
 bad as to see the crackling burnt. Furthermore, pork should at all times 
 be well cooked. Therefore, if you give it two hours and a half, I 
 think it should in that time be nicely done. The two sauces generally 
 served with pork in England are, apple sauce, and sage and onion sauce, 
 which prepare as follows :—Peel six apples, then cut them in quarters 
 and remove the cores. They should then be cut in thin slices and 
 placed in a quart stewpan with one gill of water and four tablespoonfuls 
 of pounded lump sugar, and allowed to gently boil for ten minutes, till 
 they become quite a pulp. Then beat them together with a plated fork, 
 and when nice and smooth, place them aside till you need them. 
 
 Then cut up four onions into thin slices, which throw into a quart of 
 boiling water with six leaves of green mint. Let them boil till the 
 onions are nearly tender, them strain them on a hair sieve, and with a 
 plate press the water from them, and chop them up quite fine; then 
 place them in a stewpan with half a pint of good stock, and let boil together 
 for about five minutes. Then mix with them two tablespoonfuls of fresh- 
 made bread crumbs, and a little white pepper, and salt. Now look to 
 your leg of pork, which should be very frequently basted, so as to show 
 no signs of burning. When done, serve some good gravy under it, and 
 the two sauces in two separate sauce-boats. The two vegetables may be 
 mashed turnips, and plain boiled potatoes. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Pork a l’Anglaise. —Saw off the shank-bone from 
 a small salt leg cf pork, and when the stewpan of water boils, in which it 
 is to be cooked, place it in the same, and bring it again to boil as quickly 
 as possible. When it does so, skim it well. Then let it very gently boil 
 for about two hours and a half. About six turnips, six carrots, and six 
 parsnips should be peeled and ready to cook with the pork by being 
 cut in quarters, and trimmed so as to make it look tempting. Tie up also 
 one pint of split peas rather loosely in a suitable cloth, and let them boil 
 
522 
 
 BOILED BELLY OF PORK. 
 
 with the leg of pork for about one hour and a half, when it should be 
 taken up and placed in a quart-size stewpan, the end untied. Then 
 with a small pestle or the end of a rolling-pin, smash them up smooth, 
 adding a bit of butter as big as a walnut, a little pepper and salt, and 
 two yolks of eggs. These should be well mixed together again, tied up 
 tightly , and again put back to boil with the leg of pork. 
 
 The vegetables should also boil with the leg, and should be put to 
 boil about one hour before the leg will be needed for table. One green 
 vegetable, such as Brussels sprouts or spinach, should also be sent to 
 table with the pork, and should be prepared in good time. We will 
 suppose the leg of pork is now about to be sent to table; so, place it 
 carefully on its dish and arrange the pieces of parsnips and turnips and 
 carrots round it. Place some of the broth in which it was boiled round 
 it, and send it to table ; turn out the peas-pudding on to a vegetable 
 dish, and send away with two vegetables, such as potatoes and Brussels 
 sprouts. Let me add that any of the dishes we are now treating of are fit 
 for luncheon or the schoolroom dinner , or en famille. 
 
 Roast Loin of Pork. — Prepare a fine loin of pork for roasting, 
 with or without the rind, and be particular to nicely separate the joints, 
 so that it will carve easily. It will take two hours to roast thoroughly 
 well. Take care to keep it well basted. This can also be served with 
 the same sauces as for the leg of pork described at page 54, or you can 
 send a well-made tomato sauce, or a piquant sauce, or poivrade sauce, 
 for which see the Index. 
 
 Prepare one seasonable vegetable as well as potatoes, and send a 
 good plain gravy under the pork, and the sauce in a boat. Whatever 
 you do, see that the pork is well done. 
 
 Boiled Belly of Pork. —This should be a prime piece of about 
 six or seven pounds weight, and should be placed in the water when it 
 is boiling. It will take about two hours to cook, and should be served 
 with the same vegetables as for the boiled leg of pork. There should 
 also be a peas-pudding, made as therein directed. 
 
CHARLOTTE OF ALMONDS A LA MODERNE. 
 
 523 
 
 SELECTED ENTREMETS, 
 
 SUITABLE FOR DINNERS, WEDDING BREAKFASTS, BALL SUPPERS, AND 
 
 COLD COLLATIONS 
 
 Charlotte of Almonds a la Royal. 
 
 Charlotte of Genoise Cake a la Victoria. 
 
 Charlotte of Gauffres a la Frangaise. 
 
 Nugats of Almonds a la Chantilly. 
 
 Gateau a la Neapolitain, 
 
 Croquant of Grapes, Green and Black, a la Creme. 
 
 Croquant of Ratifias a la Moderne. 
 
 Croquant of Oranges a la Creme. 
 
 Croquant bouche of Genoise a la Creme. 
 
 (Part of this list will be continued in our next Number.') 
 
 Charlotte of Almonds a la Moderne.— Mix one pound of 
 ground almonds, and one pound of pounded lump sugar, with eight 
 yolks of eggs, into a stiff paste, but such that you can roll out ; and if 
 you think it will need another yolk or two, add them, and the zest; one 
 fragrant lemon, and one spoonful of vanilla sugar should be added 
 when mixing the paste. It should be well moulded together after it 
 is mixed, using a little flour to dust it with. Then roll it out into an 
 oblong piece, still using a little flour to dust it with, both above and 
 under it. It should be now cut very even, so as to make it four inches 
 and a half wide. And having made some royal icings as it is called, of 
 sifted icing sugar and whites of eggs (and about three whites of eggs, 
 mixed with sufficient sugar, should be enough), add a few drops of 
 lemon juice, when it should be well beaten in a white pan for about 
 ten minutes, till it shows quite firm. 
 
 Then add a few drops more lemon juice, so as to enable you to 
 smoothly mask over what it is intended for. The long strip, then, of the 
 almond paste should have another dust of flour thrown under it, when it 
 should be very smoothly masked over as thinly as possible, but be fairly 
 covered with the icing sugar—(and let me add, this little job requires to 
 
524 CHARLOTTE OF ALMONDS A LA MODERNE. 
 
 be done very neatly, and, so to speak, artistically; and care must be taken 
 that it does not run over the edges or show thicker in one part than in 
 another). When you have masked over the whole length of the almond 
 paste (which should be of the thickness of an eighth of an inch before 
 the icing was placed upon it), it should then be cut into half-inch 
 lengths, or in other words, into lengths a half-inch wide, and four and a 
 half inches long. And each piece should be cut on the slant , and you 
 must do your very best to cut them uniformly of the same size, so that 
 they will nicely fit into a charlotte mould when finished. 
 
 Before you cut them, by taking a strip of foolscap paper and measur¬ 
 ing the inside of an upright charlotte mould—that is to say, its circum¬ 
 ference, and then subdividing the same into half-inches, this will unfold 
 to you the exact width which your lengths should be, whether half an 
 inch, or a little wider, or a little less. Then cut up the prepared almond 
 paste, sufficient to line the charlotte mould, and as you cut them, place 
 them on a clean baking-sheet (and you will cut them better by moisten¬ 
 ing your knife on a damp cloth as you do them). The baking-sheet also, 
 on which you place the strips, should have a sheet of paper upon the 
 same, which should be dusted with flour, and then placed in the screen 
 to dry. Then roll out the remainder of your almond paste, from which 
 to cut out a round piece one inch wider than the charlotte, and from 
 this cut out a round piece from the centre, so as to leave a border one 
 inch and a half wide : this should also be neatly masked over with icing 
 from the same with which you masked over the long pieces. When 
 finished, place it carefully on to another baking-sheet with a slice, or mask 
 it over on a sheet of paper. 
 
 Then place it to dry on a baking-sheet. After this, again roll out your 
 almond paste of the same thickness as the long pieces, which cut in two 
 lengths three quarters of an inch wide, which also mask over with thin 
 icing, and then cut the lengths into pieces a little more than a half inch 
 wide , cutting them with a knife moistened on a damp cloth, the same as 
 you did for the long pieces. You will need about three dozen of these 
 short pieces, which should be placed on some paper dusted over with 
 flour, and placed on the baking-sheet containing the large round piece, 
 and kept in the screen till the icing is dry, when they should be placed 
 
CHARLOTTE OF GENOISE CAKE A LA VICTORIA. 525 
 
 in the oven (a rather cold oven), and baked of a light fawn colour, taking 
 care to stand by and attend to them, and directly you see they are of a 
 light fawn colour, remove them, and again place them in the screen, and 
 let them dry for a couple of hours. You can also trim nice and round a 
 croquant stand (for which see page 142, if you should not happen to 
 have one by you ); and when you have trimmed it, mask it over with 
 some icing to which you have added a few drops of cochineal, and two 
 or three drops of water. It should be masked all over, including the 
 outside edge, and then placed to dry in the screen. When you build up 
 the charlotte, place some rather stiff icing in a paper corney, and with 
 this squeeze a little on the upright pieces, but one at a time, placing one 
 piece against the other as closely as possible, with some icing between 
 each two upright pieces. And when you have thus filled your charlotte, 
 spread a little icing over the inside of the upright pieces, and place again 
 in the screen until it has become quite dry. Then turn it out, and fix 
 it carefully on the croquant stand which you masked with pink icing, 
 and which you must fix on the same exactly in the centre with some 
 icing. 
 
 After this you must fix on the round piece which you cut out of 
 the centre, using a little icing to make it adhere to the top of the up¬ 
 right pieces; and take care it is fixed on very evenly in the centre. 
 Then place a row of the small pieces round the base, also a row to 
 correspond, on or around the top border, causing them to fix firmly on 
 by the aid of a little icing squeezed from a corney. And a neat orna¬ 
 mental border of icing should be made round the outside edge of the 
 round piece, which forms the projecting border on the top. It should 
 now be placed in the screen to become dry. And when sending it to 
 table place it on an ornamental paper upon a silver dish, and fill it with 
 whipped cream a la vanille (w r hipped the same as for meranque), or with 
 cake prepared the same as for a trifle with cream on the top. It can 
 also be built up with caramel sugar boiled to a light colour, which I 
 think the best way; and should then be built outside the mould 
 instead of inside. 
 
 Charlotte of Genoise Cake a la Victoria. —Prepare and make 
 a one-pound mixture of Genoise cake the day previous to its being used. 
 
526 CHARLOTTE OF GENOISE CAKE A LA VICTORIA. 
 
 It should be made as instructed for the charlottes a la princesse, at 
 page 203 in the number for March, and be made of the same thickness, 
 and baked in the same manner. Then stir into it the juice of three 
 lemons and sufficient icing sugar (which should be previously sifted), to 
 make the same of the consistence of single cream. Then measure the 
 inside of an upright quart charlotte mould with a length of foolscap 
 paper, which will exactly fit the inside of the mould in circumference. 
 It should be then folded in four, and with your pencil , see how many 
 equal-size pieces this one-fourth will make , marking the same with your 
 pencil; and the pieces you require will be about one half inch — a little 
 more or less. 
 
 Then cut a piece off one end of your sheet of Genoise, about 4 J inches 
 wide, and cut oft' smoothly the brown and loose skin from the top, and 
 trim it evenly to about a quarter of an inch thick. Then, with your 
 band of paper with which you measured the inside of the mould, see 
 how much cake you will require to cut into equal-size pieces of about 
 one half, to reach round the same ; after which, mask the cake you have 
 prepared with your lemon icing, and take care that the icing is not too 
 thickly placed on the cake, and that it is spread very evenly— (thin it on 
 the slant, the same as for the last dish, and of the width you have 
 measured). The pieces should be cut very even, and as you do them, 
 arrange them on a clean baking-sheet, taking care the icing is as thin as 
 possibly can be on the surface of the cake, and that it does not run over 
 the sides. When you have cut out sufficient long pieces, place them to 
 dry in the screen. Then cut out a round piece about half an inch wider 
 than your charlotte mould, which place on one-fourth part of a sheet of 
 foolscap paper after you have trimmed it to a quarter of an inch thick, 
 when cut out the centre from the round piece, so as to leave a round 
 ring three quarters of an inch wide, which very neatly mask over with 
 the same lemon icing as you used for the long pieces : but be particular 
 in doing this ring, and mask it round the outside edge as well, and 
 place it to dry in the screen, which will take some little time. But when 
 they feel dry to the touch, place them in the oven for a few seconds, 
 and when you see that both the ring and the upright pieces look very 
 glossy, at once remove them and place them in the cool, but do not 
 
CHARLOTTE OF GENOISE CAKE A LA VICTORIA. 527 
 
 attempt to move them till they are cold. In the meantime mix two 
 whites of eggs with enough sifted superfine icing sugar to be as thick as 
 double cream, adding to the same about six drops of lemon juice. 
 These should be mixed in a very clean kitchen-pan, which should hold 
 about one pint. Mix it with a very clean wooden spoon. 
 
 When this is well mixed, let one of your assistants beat up the same 
 for about ten minutes, holding the basin on the board with the left hand, 
 and with the spoon in the right, keep beating the icing over and over 
 with the spoon till it has become firm and light, when cover it with some 
 damp paper till it is needed. Then blanch, or rather boil, two ounces 
 of pistachio nuts in a pint of water, till the skins will readily come off, 
 when strain them in a pointed tin strainer, and dip them in cold water 
 for a minute, after which, rub them in a cloth for a couple of minutes, 
 when the greater part of the skins will have come off. Pick out the 
 green nuts, and take the skins from those which still retain them. Then 
 chop the green nuts very fine, and place them on a plate in the screen 
 till you need them; after which trim and ice-pink another croquant stand, 
 the same as for the charlotte of almonds, which place also to dry. Then 
 slightly trim another piece of Genoise cake, leaving it as thick as possible— 
 or say about three-eighths of an inch. When thus prepared, cut out with 
 one of your long tin cutters about three dozen round pieces about half 
 an inch in diameter. Then make a small paper corney, which half fill 
 with egg icing, and make a round ring on the edge of each round piece,, 
 and as you do them dip them lightly in the chopped-up pistachios, 
 which place on a small dish as you do them. And now look at the 
 upright pieces for your charlotte, and, if quite cold, stick them together 
 upright in your charlotte mould, the same as you did for the charlotte 
 of almonds, using your egg icing to stick them together. When all are 
 fixed together in the mould, spread a little of the egg icing over the 
 inside of the Genoise cake, then place it in the screen to dry for about 
 half an hour, and when it is dry place it very gently and carefully on the 
 centre of the croquant stand, on which fix it with some egg icing, then, 
 putting a little icing on the top of the upright pieces, fix on the round 
 piece or ring exactly iti the centre. 
 
 When this is rightly placed, make a circle in the centre of the same, 
 
528 
 
 CHARLOTTE OF GAUFFRES A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 of the small round pieces which you dipped in the chopped pistachios. 
 And do the same round the base, sticking each one on by placing a 
 small quantity of icing under the same, and quite dry, and sending to 
 table by the means of a paper corney, place a little red jelly in the 
 centre of each ring of pistachios. 
 
 Before doing this the charlotte should be again dried in the screen 
 for half an hour, then placed in the cool. It should be filled, when 
 sending to table, with a pine-apple cream set with gelatine, in a plain 
 mould, and filled up with a dessert spoon ; then dished on a dessert 
 paper on a silver dish and sent to table. I have only described one of 
 each of the present list of entremets. 
 
 Charlotte of Gauffres a la Frangaise. — Six ounces of ground 
 almonds ; four ounces of superfine flour; ten ounces of sugar; four 
 yolks of eggs ; one wine-glass of water. Beat the yolk of eggs and 
 sugar well together with a little water, then beat or mix in the almonds, 
 then the flour. They should be mixed of the consistence of double 
 cream, and will require the other half-wineglass of water, and should 
 be mixed the day before making them, or say the night before. You will 
 require a little pure white wax — about a quarter of a pound, and prepare 
 two copper baking-sheets by having them washed very clean, and dried, 
 and then should be made hot ; and while hot, rub over the surface 
 a piece of the wax, which, when it has masked or coated the surface, 
 should be rubbed with a piece of soft paper, so as to remove any 
 ■surplus wax that may show — that is to say, more than what is 
 needed. 
 
 Here let me observe that you will require a few special implements 
 to make this dish, which are as follows : A long tin cutter to cut out 
 the gauffres with, and tw'o wooden rollers to shape them upon, and 
 one pointed wooden roller to make an imitation shell upon, and also a 
 round tin cutter, to cut out the round pieces to make the shells, or as 
 some call them, corneys—meaning, I presume, cornucopias, or horns of 
 plenty. And let me mention, you will require an assistant to aid in 
 making this dish, to roll the gauffres on the wooden rollers as you cut 
 them out, also to fix the corneys on the pointed roller as you cut them 
 out. And row, your two copper baking-sheets having been waxed, you 
 
CHARLOTTE OF GAUFFRES A LA FRANCAISE. 529 
 
 must spread the gauffre mixture as thin and as level as possible over 
 the surface of the baking-sheet with a palette knife. 
 
 The more particular you are in performing this part, the better the 
 gauffres will be. And now, your assistant by your side, place the 
 baking-sheet which you have spread over with the gauffre mixture in an 
 oven of good heat, and they should be baked of a very light-brown tint; 
 and instantly you see this, remove the baking-sheet from the oven, and 
 with your long tin cutter proceed to cut them out, and let your assistant 
 help you to roll them on the rollers. As you do them, place them on a 
 level hair sieve (and they should be pressed on the dresser where you 
 join them). This operation should be done as quickly as possible by 
 each, for the gauffres soon get cold, and then are very brittle. About 
 one dozen gauffres will make one charlotte. 
 
 Then you will make a round ring for the top, which should be about 
 one inch wide, and about half an inch wider than a quart charlotte 
 mould, and for which you will require two tin cutters—one to cut out 
 the ring to its full width, and the other to cut out the centre piece, 
 which must be done by spreading a baking-sheet , duly prepared with wax , 
 with sufficient of the mixture to serve you to do so ; and when you 
 have done or finished the same, then spread a clean baking-sheet with 
 the mixture as in the first instance; and when baked, cut out about 
 sixteen round pieces about one inch and a half in diameter, which make 
 into shells by folding them on the pointed roller (and take care not to 
 over-bake the gauffre mixture for these, or cut them out quicker than 
 the assistant can fold them on the pointed roller. 
 
 When all are done, make a thin border of piping round the extreme 
 edge of the shells, and as you do them dip the piping into some very 
 finely chopped pistachios , and arrange them on a hair sieve as you do 
 them. After which, build up the long gauffres in circular form in a plain 
 upright charlotte mould, taking care the join shows inside the mould 
 and the smooth part in front. They should be fixed neatly together 
 with some icing, and then allowed to dry for half an hour or an hour in 
 the kitchen ; and while this is taking place, trim a croquant stand nice 
 and round, and mask the same with some pink icing, the same as for the 
 
 preceding charlottes; and fix the built-up gauffres in the centre of this, 
 
 2 Q 
 
53 ° 
 
 NOUGAT OF ALMONDS A LA CHANTILLY. 
 
 when dry, with some icing. Then fix the round ring on the top, taking 
 care it is fixed exactly in the centre, and use a little icing to fix this also. 
 Then place a row of the shells round the base with the pointed part 
 inwards and the wide part outwat-ds ; and the same with the row of shells 
 round the top, which should have one or two less in number than round 
 the base. 
 
 When built, place it in the screen for ten minutes (in the coolest 
 part). And dishing up to send to table with a paper corney, place a 
 little whipped cream in each corney, and then a fresh strawberry. And 
 fill the centre with some vanille cream, the same as for a meranque— 
 and it is ready for table : but you can use a little piping if you please 
 between the upright pieces. 
 
 Nougat of Almonds a la Chantilly. —Having prepared two 
 pounds of almonds, by washing them, and then boiling them for about 
 three or four minutes in about four quarts of water (till the skins can be 
 readily removed), strain them on a hair sieve, and throw some cold 
 water over them, or dip them in the same. Then drain them for a few 
 minutes, and, placing about half of them in a clean rubber, rub them in 
 this till the skins are removed, and when all have been so served, with 
 an assistant, pick out the almonds from the skins, which throw aside, 
 when let the almonds be chopped rather fine and placed where they will 
 become quite dry. This should be done the day previous to using 
 them. 
 
 Then let them be sifted in a wire quenelle sieve on to a sheet of paper,, 
 to remove the smaller or too finely chopped portions, which can be 
 used for other purposes. And the next little matter to attend to is, to 
 select a suitable mould in which to shape and make the nougat. 
 And a nice-shaped charlotte mould, as upright as possible, and a little 
 taller than usual, with a separate mould to form the top with, is also 
 needed; and, if of a dome shape, such will be sure to look well. But 
 having selected the mould, weigh ten ounces of finely-powdered sugar, 
 and one pound of chopped almonds. Place the latter on a baking- 
 sheet, and place them in the hottest part of the screen, where they will 
 become hot, but not take colour. Then the moulds selected should be 
 quite clean, and buttered with a little clarified butter, and take care to 
 
NOUGAT OF ALMONDS A LA CHANTILLY. 
 
 531 
 
 have a little butter by your side; and also butter the back of a baking- 
 sheet, also a lemon, and small rolling-pin. 
 
 Then place the sugar in a copper bowl, which has been well scoured 
 out, and with a wooden spoon gently stir the sugar till it has melted. 
 This should be done over the hottest part of the hot-plate, which 
 should be red-hot. Directly the sugar has melted, about a teaspoonful 
 of lemon juice should be stirred in ; then have by your side the hot 
 almonds, which stir into the melted sugar very gently, but so as to well 
 mix them. Then put enough of the nougat on the buttered baking- 
 sheet to line the dome, but spread it out with your buttered lemon to 
 a round piece, with which line the mould in the shape of a dome, as 
 thin as possible , cutting off the rough end. 
 
 Then as quickly as you can make another round piece of the size of 
 the bottom of the charlotte mould, and then again cut out another 
 round piece about two inches in diameter, which place. Then make 
 two pieces of nougat, which, together, will reach round the mould. 
 And now well butter both hands, and place one piece in the mould 
 as quickly as you can, pressing it upright in the mould with your 
 hands, and then place the other piece, which must be made to join 
 on the first piece, and with the assistance of your small buttered 
 rolling-pin, press the two pieces together, and compel, by a little 
 pressure, the part round the side to join on the bottom piece, and 
 with your knife make the top edge level with the mould, by cutting 
 away any uneven parts. And now, before the mould gets cold, remove 
 the dome, taking care that the top edge of that is level with the 
 mould; also, you can pass your small knife round it, then by gentle 
 force withdraw it from the mould. 
 
 Do the same by that in the charlotte mould, letting your small knife 
 pass between the nougat and the mould, and then by gentle force 
 remove it from the mould. Then your next proceeding will be to 
 mask over with pink icing a round croquant stand, taking care to trim 
 it of proper size, so as to suit and match with the nougat, and when 
 it is dry fix the nougat in the centre of the same, and fasten it on the 
 stand with a little icing, and, placing the dome over the hole in the 
 top, you can give the matter a slight zest, and think how you will orna- 
 
 2 Q 2 
 
532 
 
 GATEAU A LA NEAPOLITAINE. 
 
 ment the same. And a little well-made icing, thoroughly well beaten 
 for about ten minutes— and with which form a border round the base, 
 and the same round the dome—and a slight wreath round the centre 
 will look extremely well; or borders made of angelica leaves and 
 dried cherries, and the same on the top of the dome , which you must 
 bear in mind must be kept separate, till you have filled your nougat 
 with whipped cream a la vanille. The dome can then be placed on the 
 top, and made fast; it should also be lightly ornamented with piping, 
 or with leaves of angelica and some dried cherries. 
 
 Gateau a la Neapolitaine. — Take half a pound of powdered lump 
 sugar, half a pound of ground almonds, half a pound of butter, six yolks 
 of eggs, and the zest of two oranges rubbed on sugar, and one pound 
 of superfine flour. Mix the sugar, almond, and flour, and essence from 
 the oranges together, then rub into these the half pound of butter, 
 adding afterwards the six yolks of eggs, which should be thoroughly 
 rubbed into the mixture ; and when this has been done, roll out the 
 paste into a long piece, in the shape of a rolling pin ; then divide it 
 into twelve equal parts, and be particular to cut them of the same 
 size, and then make them into balls, which roll out to equal-size pieces 
 of about five inches and a half in diameter; then with a round tin 
 cutter of about five inches, cut them into round pieces—and they must 
 be exactly round. 
 
 They should be then placed on two well-buttered baking-sheets ; but 
 six of them should have the centre cut out, of about two inches in 
 diameter, to form rings. Before placing them on the baking-sheets they 
 should be pricked over with a fork, so as to make them bake even in 
 shape. Bake them in a moderate oven, of a light-brown colour, and 
 directly they are out of the oven, place them one on another on a plate, 
 or on one side of the pastry-slab, and put a plate on the top, to 
 keep them level for a few minutes, or till they have become nearly 
 cold. And while this is taking place, put two pots of apricot jam in a 
 stewpan, with a couple of spoonfuls of water, and stir the same till it has 
 become hot, when rub it through a clean hair sieve on to a plate; 
 after which place it again in a clean pint stewpan (and do not waste 
 any), which place aside for the present. 
 
GATEAU A LA NEAPOLITAINE. 
 
 533 
 
 Then place two whites of very fresh eggs in a clean quart basin, and 
 mix it with some superfine icing sugar, which has been rubbed through 
 a wire sieve with a very clean wooden spoon. Add sufficient icing 
 sugar with the whites of eggs to make the two about as thick as double 
 cream, and squeeze about six drops of lemon juice into the same ; then 
 select a small wooden spoon (very clean) and let one of your assistants 
 beat this for about ten minutes, over and over till it shows very light 
 and firm—so much so that it will adhere to the spoon when the same is 
 held up half-full. Then cover with a piece of damp paper, and place 
 aside for the present. Then trim and make very round and about 
 half an inch wider than the gateau will be when trimmed and ready to be 
 fitted or fixed on the same; and mask this with pink icing, which do 
 by taking sufficient of the icing you have just prepared, and adding a 
 few drops of cochineal, also of water, and coating the croquant stand 
 nearly with it, also the outside edge; then place it to dry in the 
 screen. 
 
 Proceed then to build up the gateau Neapolitaine, by spreading a little 
 apricot jam between the six plain round pieces ; then place them very 
 evenly one on the other as you do them, and when you have fixed 
 the six plain rounds, then follow suit with the rings, spreading a little 
 apricot jam between them. When all are thus built up, place a plate on 
 the top and put a four-pound weight in the centre, which leave for a 
 few minutes. After which, with a very sharp knife, trim the gateau very 
 evenly all round; and then spread your prepared apricot jam all round 
 the cake, and on the top border : and you must do this very evenly 
 and smoothly indeed, and not place it on too thick, but only sufficient 
 to cover the gateau. After this, fix it on the centre of the croquant 
 stand which you iced pink, using a little icing to fix it on the same. 
 
 Then very neatly pipe the gateau, forming a neat wreath on the top 
 border and round the base, also round the middle of the same; and if 
 you cannot pipe nicely, you can use some jordan almonds which have 
 had the skins removed by being blanched in boiling water, and after¬ 
 wards splitting the same, and by fixing the flat side on the gateau. Form 
 a wreath with these with the half of a cherry between every two half 
 almonds, do the same round the top border, also at the base. Or, you 
 
534 
 
 GATEAU A LA NEAPOLITAINE, 
 
 can use green angelica, cut into leaves, and form a series of wreaths 
 with these with a half of a preserved cherry between each two leaves 
 of angelica. 
 
 A compote of preserved cherries, or apricots, or mixed fruit, can be 
 served in the centre, or some whipped cream flavoured with vanille 
 sugar: place under it an ornamental paper on a silver dish when 
 serving. 
 
 DOME-TOP CUrS. 
 
 SIZE OF THIMBLE, 
 AND UPWARDS. 
 
 boar’s 
 
 HEAD 
 
 SHALLOW 
 
 TIMBALE. 
 
 CAKE 
 
 MOULD. 
 
 ?. : 
 
 SAVARIN MOULDS. 
 
 RAISED TOP BORDER 
 
 NINE SIZES, FROM 3 INS. DIAMETER. 
 
 THREE SIZES. 
 
 The above to be obtained from Messrs. Temple & Crook, 6 , Motcomb Street, 
 
 Belgrave Square, London, S. W. 
 
INDEX TO the MODERN KITCHEN ORACLE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Aitch Bone of Salt Beef .. .. 512 
 
 Almonds au Conserve .. .. .. 359 
 
 ,, Charlotte of .. .. .. 523 
 
 „ Nougat.530 
 
 Anchovy Sauce .. .. 197, 206, 377 
 
 Apples a la Portuguaise .. .. .. 115 
 
 ,, a la Royal .. .. .. .. 432 
 
 Apple Dumpling .. .. .. .. Si 
 
 „ Fritters a l’Anglaise.499 
 
 Apples Puree of .. .. .. .. 180 
 
 Apple Tait. 82, 396 
 
 Apricots a la Creme. 178, 182 
 
 „ a la Royal .. .. .. 58, 398 
 
 Apricot Sauce .. .. 201, 207, 344 
 
 Artichokes .. .. .. 153,413,415 
 
 Asparagus Peas .. .. .. .. 341 
 
 ,, Sauce .. .. .. .. 207 
 
 ,, Soup .. .. .. .. 147 
 
 Aspic, Fillets of Fowl .. .. .. 352 
 
 „ Jelly.296 
 
 ,, ,, Stock , , a * • • a • 9 
 
 Bain-marie .. .. .. .. .. 68, 208 
 
 Ballotines of Pigeons a la Toulouse .. 129 
 
 ,, of Qails a la Macedoine .. 109 
 
 Batter Fritter .. .. .. .. 30 
 
 Bavaroise a l’ltalienne .. 257, 349, 359 
 
 ,, a la Vanille .. .. .. 28 
 
 Bechemelle Sauce 13, 125,162, 206, 300, 344, 413 
 Beef, Braized Brisket of .. .. .. 508 
 
 ,, ,, Fillet of .. .. .. 510 
 
 „ „ Ribs of .509 
 
 „ Dariole of .. .. .. .. 270 
 
 ,, Fillet a la Jardiniere .. .. no 
 
 ,, Omelette .37 
 
 ,, Roast Ribs of.. .. .. .. 507 
 
 ,, Salt Silver side .. .. .. 511 
 
 ,, Scollops .. .. .. 90,91 
 
 „ Sirloin. 467, 507 
 
 ,, Spiced .. .. .. .. .. 223 
 
 Beignets a la Moderne .. .. .. 57 
 
 „ au Parmesan .. .. 122,258 
 
 ,, of Rice au Conserve .. .. 154 
 
 Bigarade Sauce .. .. .. .. 25 
 
 Biscuits Glacee a la Reine.. .. .. 202 
 
 Bisque of Lobster a la Cardinal .. .. 456 
 
 ,, Prawns a 1 ’Essence .. .. 458 
 
 Black Currant Sauce .. .. .. 126 
 
 Black Game, Roast .. .. .. .. 499 
 
 Bohemienne Sauce .. .. .. .. 407 
 
 Boiled Belly of Pork .. .. .. 522 
 
 ,, Leg of Mutton .. .. .. 512 
 
 ,, „ Pork.521 
 
 Slices of Codfish .. .. .. .. 374 
 
 Bouchees au Parmesan .. .. .. 122 
 
 ,, de Dames a la Moderne .. 119 
 
 Boudins of Fowl a la Toulouse .. .. 235 
 
 Boudins of Hare .. .. .. 6g, 71 
 
 Bouillibasse.458 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Braized Breast of Veal 
 
 .. 518 
 
 
 Brisket of Beef 
 
 .. 500 
 
 
 Fillets of Beef 
 
 .. 510 
 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal 
 
 ... 5*9 
 
 
 Knuckles of Veal .. 
 
 ■ • 5 2 ° 
 
 
 Ribs of Beef 
 
 .. 509 
 
 t) 
 
 „ ,, a 1 ’ Aspic .. 
 
 .. 223 
 
 
 Saddle of Lamb .. 
 
 • • SIS 
 
 
 Shoulder of Lamb.. 
 
 • • 515 
 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 
 
 .. 511 
 
 >> 
 
 Turkey 
 
 3 1 ! 33 
 
 Brandy Sauce for Plum Pudding.. 
 
 .. 468 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding 
 
 81 
 
 
 Croustades of 
 
 209 
 
 
 Sauce .. 
 
 
 
 ,, for Roast Fowls 
 
 65 
 
 Brill, Fillets of 
 
 
 Brioche au Parmesan .. .. 205,213 
 
 ,, Pudding .. .. _ 57 > 6* 
 
 ,, with Mixed Fruit a la Parisienne 432 
 Brisket of Beef 
 
 ,, ,, a la Jardiniere 
 
 Broiled Ham and Eggs and Tomato Sauce 
 ,, ,, al’Indienne .. 
 
 508 
 
 5°9 
 
 38 
 
 38 
 
 ,, Mackerel 
 ,, Mutton Cutlets 
 
 • • 38 
 
 ,, Rump Steak 
 
 .. 38 
 
 Brown Stock 
 
 9 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 
 
 .. 68, 487 
 
 Butter Sauce for Vegetable 
 
 25 j_i 63 > 2 46 . 389 
 
 Cabinet Pudding 
 
 388 , 394 
 
 Cake, Genoise with Fruit .. 
 
 • • i 34 
 
 ,, Viennoise 
 
 
 Caifs Foot Jelly .. 14, 83, 187, 296, 336 
 
 ,, Feet and Stock 
 
 8 
 
 „ Head Soup en Kari.. 
 
 .. 446 
 
 ,, Kidney Soup a la Jardiniere .. 445 
 
 ,, Liver and Bacon a l’Anglaise .. 79 
 
 ,, Tail a l’lndienne 
 
 .. 463 
 
 „ >, Soup 
 
 
 Canapees of Fillets of Soles 
 
 166 
 
 ,, Lobster 
 
 .. .. 230 
 
 ,, Prawns 
 
 229 
 
 ,, Trout .. 
 
 .. 256 
 
 Caper Sauce .. 
 
 .. 513 
 
 Capons.. 
 
 199, 209, 310 
 
 ,, alaChipolata 
 
 64, 69 
 
 ,, Gravy for 
 
 
 Cardinal Sauce 
 
 127,425 
 
 Carrot Soup .. 
 
 .. .. 102 
 
 Cauliflowers .. 
 
 346, 392 , 410 
 
 Celery au Gratin 
 
 
 Celestino Pudding .. 
 
 .. 114 
 
 Champignons a la Bordelaise 
 
 67,73 
 
 ,, for Sweetbreads 
 
 .. 300 
 
 ,, a 1’Imperial .. 
 
 . . . . 408 
 
 Charlottes a la Princesse .. 
 
 . . 203, 212 
 
 ,, of Almonds .. 
 
 • • 523 
 
536 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 3°. 34. 375 
 
 ortue 
 
 Charlottes of Gauffres 
 
 Genoise Cake 
 Chartreuses of Peaches 
 
 ,, Strawberries 
 
 Chaud Froid of Lamb Sweetbrea 
 Financiere 
 Cheese Cakes.. 
 
 „ Entremet of.. 
 
 ,, Straws 
 Cherries 
 
 Cherry Water Ice .. 
 
 Chestnut Sauce 
 ,, Stewed 
 
 Chicken and Ham Omelette 
 Chickens, Fillets of.. 
 
 Chicken Pie a 1 ’Essence 
 Chickens, Spring 
 Chipolata Ragout .. 
 
 ,, Sauce 
 
 Chocolate Creams .. 
 
 Clear Consommee a la Printainiere 
 ,, ,, de Volaille en 1 
 
 „ Giblet Soup 
 ,, Soup au Chasseur 
 ,, Turtle Soup .. 
 
 Codfish a la Hollandaise . 
 
 ,, au Gratin .. 
 
 ,, Boiled 
 ,, Slices of .. 
 
 Cod’s Liver and Oysters au Gratin 
 ,, Roe en Fritot .. 
 
 Coffee Creams 
 Cold Entrees of Quails 
 Compote of Apricots a la Creme 
 ,, Cherries for Savarins 
 
 „ Pigeons .. 
 
 ,, Pine Apples 
 
 Cond6 Pastry au Conserve 
 Conserve ot Strawberries a la Cre 
 Consomme a la Jardiniere.. 
 
 ,, a la Printainiere 
 
 ,, of Calf’s Tail .. 
 
 ,, Fowl a la Royal 
 
 ,, with rice 
 
 ,, Grouse 
 
 „ Partridges .. 
 
 ,, Pheasants .. 
 
 ,, Veal au Chasseur 
 
 Cream for Apple Tarts 
 Creams 
 
 Creams au Cafe en Surprise 
 Cream Chocolate 
 ,, Coffee 
 
 ,, Italian 
 
 ,, Maraschino .. 
 
 „ Millefruit 
 
 ,, Noyeau 
 
 ,, Orange 
 
 „ Pine Apple .. 
 
 ,, Raspberry .. 
 
 ,, Strawberry .. 
 
 ,, Vanilla 
 
 Creams of Dory 
 
 ,, Fowl a la Royal.. 
 
 „ Haddock .. 
 
 „ Salmon 
 
 Cremes of Fowl a la Financiere 
 ,, Grouse 
 
 ,, Haddock .. 
 
 ,, John Dorys 
 
 ,, Pheasants.. 
 
 „ Trout en Matelotte 
 
 ,, Veal Soup 
 
 Crepenettes au Parmesan a la Moderne 
 Croquettes Potato .. 
 
 ,, Sauce for 
 
 Croustades for the a la Reine Soup 
 
 >i „ Duckling aux Olives. 
 
 • • 5 T 5 
 
 •• 925 
 
 • ■ 156 
 256. 314 
 
 is a la 
 
 227 
 322 
 158 
 398 
 
 3° 1 
 
 35 1 
 206 
 199 
 37 
 
 343. 346, 356 
 77 
 222 
 62 
 
 56 
 
 284 
 196 
 444 
 451 
 04, 304 
 435 
 i°5 
 374 
 374 
 464 
 42 
 4i 
 284 
 246 
 178 
 301 
 117 
 176 
 328 
 183 
 13 
 196 
 448 
 5i 
 t 47 
 45i 
 45i 
 448 
 
 243 
 
 308 
 35 
 59 
 284 
 
 284 
 
 285 
 286 
 28l 
 
 284 
 286 
 
 285 
 285 
 
 >285 
 
 286 
 
 369 
 
 St 
 376 
 338, 355 
 
 31 
 
 451, 480 
 103 
 I48, 160 
 473. 47*5 
 172 
 446 
 
 158 
 
 401 
 
 425 
 
 264 
 168 
 
 25 
 
 39i. 
 
 PAG 
 
 Croustades for the Fowl a I’Essence .. 167 
 
 ,, ,, Mutton a la Royal .. 167 
 
 ,, of Oysters .. .. .. 385 
 
 Croutes au Parmesan a 1 ’Imperial 35c, 359 
 ,, of Compote of Oranges a la 
 
 Creme.. .. .. .. 179 
 
 ,, Peaches a 1 ’Americaine .. 179 
 
 ,, Savarins .. .. .. .. 176 
 
 Croutes, with Compote of Gooseberries 
 
 a la Creme .. .. .. .. 179 
 
 Croutons .. .. .. .. .. 33 
 
 ,, of Bread for Soup .. .. 65 
 
 ,, for Mushrooms .. .. .. 65 
 
 Cucumber Sauce .. .. .. .. 516 
 
 Curried Oyster Sauce .. .. .. 55 
 
 Curry of Lobsters a l’lndienne .. .. 88 
 
 ,, Pheasants .. .. .. .. 447 
 
 ,, Sauce .385 
 
 Custard for Pains of Apricots .. .. 388 
 
 Cutlets, Lamb .. .. 148, 225, 342, 355 
 
 ,, Pork.465 
 
 ,, of Mutton a la Pompadour 38,198,211 
 
 Darioles of Beef aux Champignons .. 270 
 
 „ ,, a la Financiere .. .. 271 
 
 „ Fillets of Soles, en Mayon- 
 
 naise.. 
 
 339 354 
 
 ,, Hare a la Macedoine .. 
 
 265, 267 
 
 ,, ,, aux Champignons 
 
 • • 265 
 
 ,, Mutton .. 
 
 • • 1 33 
 
 ,, Tomatoes 
 
 • • 306 
 
 D’Artoise Pastry 
 
 • • 323 
 
 Dinner Rolls .. 
 
 ■ • 335 
 
 Dinner Sauces.. 
 
 206, 2Q0 
 
 Diplomatique Gateau 
 
 • • 347 
 
 Dishing the Entrees.. 
 
 33 
 
 ,, Quenelles 
 
 32 
 
 Dory .. 
 
 •• 369 
 
 Dorys, Cremes of 
 
 I48,l60 
 
 Dressed Spinach 
 
 . . 404 
 
 ,, Vegetables, List of 
 
 . . 400 
 
 Duchesse Cake 
 
 1S0.182 
 
 ,, Pudding .. 
 
 29, 69 
 
 Duckling, Croustades of .. 
 
 .. 168 
 
 ,, Roast 
 
 . . 208 
 
 Eel Soup a la Richmond 
 
 .. 454 
 
 Eggs Fried with boiled Ham and Tomato 
 
 Sauce .. .. .. .. 38 
 
 ,, Poached with Boiled Ham a 
 
 l’lndienne .. .. .. .. 38 
 
 ,, Poached with Haddock a la Moderne 39 
 Entrees.. .. .. .. .. .. 428 
 
 „ Dishing of.34 
 
 ,, of Quails .. .. .. .. 146 
 
 ,, Widgeon and Teal .. .. 505 
 
 ,, Preparation of .. .. 69,294 
 
 Entremets .. .. .. .. .. 313 
 
 Epigram of Lamb with Puree of Peas .. 272 
 
 „ „ „ Asparagus 273 
 
 Espagnol Sauce 128, 161, 292, 300, 343, 404 
 Essence of Quail and of Haddock .. 298 
 
 Fanchonettes a la Francaise 
 Farced Larks aux Champignons .. 
 Farci Fillets of Soles 
 Fat Livers a la Moderne .. 
 
 Fat for Frying 
 Favorites au Parmesan 
 
 ,, of Game, Poultry or Fish 
 Filet de Dinde a l’Ecarlate 
 Fillets of Beef 
 
 ,, Brill a la Genoise.. 
 
 ,, with Prawn Sauce 
 
 „ a la Maitre d’Hotel 
 
 ,, Chicken 
 
 „ Fowl 
 
 ,, ,, Sauce for .. 
 
 337, 
 
 •• 327 
 
 .. 466 
 
 • • 378 
 .. 228 
 
 209,355 
 33.432 
 37 
 
 .. 498 
 
 506 
 
 366 
 
 367 
 
 367 
 343 
 352 
 56 
 
 90, no. 
 
 34b 
 
 34i, 
 
INDEX 
 
 537 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fillets of Haddock with Tomato Sauce 36, 
 
 
 
 4 °i 375 
 
 
 Mackerel en Fritot 
 
 
 379 
 
 »» 
 
 Pigeons aux Champignons 
 
 
 249 
 
 
 ,, ,, bauce for 
 
 247 
 
 
 Poulets a la Prince 
 
 
 52 
 
 
 Soles .. 30, 166, 261, 
 
 354 . 
 
 377 
 
 
 Soles Omelette of.. 
 
 
 36 
 
 
 Turbots 
 
 . . 
 
 365 
 
 
 Whiting 
 
 
 565 
 
 
 a la Cardinal 
 
 
 366 
 
 
 a l’lndienne .. 
 
 
 365 
 
 
 with Oyster Sauce .. 
 
 
 366 
 
 
 Yarmouth Bloaters en Fritot 
 
 
 3 ° 
 
 Financiere Ragout .. 
 
 2 93 . 
 
 344 
 
 
 Sauce .. .. 126, 
 
 163, 
 
 207 
 
 Fins of Turtle 
 
 
 440 
 
 Fore Quarter of Lamb a 1 ’Anglaise 
 
 
 199 
 
 Foundation Sauces .. 
 
 
 337 
 
 Fowl 
 
 a l’Aspic 
 
 
 214 
 
 
 a 1’Indienne .. 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 and Tongue with Rice 
 
 
 no 
 
 
 Consomme of 
 
 
 147 
 
 
 Creme a la Financiere 
 
 
 131 
 
 
 Croustades of.. 
 
 
 167 
 
 
 Fricassee of .. 
 
 
 277 
 
 
 Fritot a la Moderne .. 
 
 
 41 
 
 
 Petits Boudins of 
 
 
 235 
 
 
 Puree of 
 
 
 2 43 
 
 
 Roast with Broiled Ham .. 
 
 
 275 
 
 
 Saute of 
 
 280, 466 
 
 
 Saute with Truffle Sauce 
 
 
 132 
 
 
 Soufflee of 
 
 197 . 
 
 210 
 
 »? 
 
 Trimmings of 
 
 
 19 
 
 French Artichokes a l’ltahenne.. 
 
 
 153 
 
 
 ,. and French Beans 
 
 
 413 
 
 ,, Noyeau 
 
 ,, Pie of Pigeons a 1 ’Aspic .. 
 Salad 
 
 Fresh Strawberries .. 
 
 ,, Strawberry Cream 
 Fried Smelts with Anchovy Sauce 
 Fricassee of Fowl a la Franeaise .. 
 Fritot of Cauliflower 
 ,, Cod’s Roe .. 
 
 ,, Fowl 
 
 ,, Oysters 
 
 ,, Rabbit 
 
 Fritter Batter.. 
 
 Frying Fat 
 
 187 
 
 217 
 
 299 
 
 203 
 
 259 
 
 197 
 
 277 
 
 411 
 
 41 
 1, 39 ° 
 87 
 
 80 
 
 37 
 
 355 
 
 Galantine of Fowl with Truffles a 1 ’Aspic 
 
 Bech 
 
 ,, Saddle of Lamb a la Mac 
 
 doine 
 
 „ Spring Chickens a 
 
 melle 
 
 ,, Turkey Poult.. 
 
 Garniture for Saute of Fowl 
 Gateau a la Neapolitaine .. 
 
 ,, Diplomatique 
 ,, a la Polonaise 
 ,, of Almonds au Conserve. 
 
 ,, of Puff Paste a la Franfaise 
 Gauffres, Charlotte of 
 Genoise Cake .. 
 
 ,, Sauce 
 
 Giblet Soup a l’Anglaise. .. 
 
 Ginger Pudding 
 Glacee Biscuits 
 Goose, Roast .. 
 
 ,, Stuffing for .. 
 
 Gooseberries, Compote of .. 
 
 Gravies 
 
 Gravy for Haunch of Mutton 
 „ Lamb and Ducklings 
 
 ,, Pigeon Pie 
 
 ,, Roast Lamb 
 
 o, 219 
 
 134 
 
 222 
 
 220 
 
 21 
 
 532 
 
 347 
 
 361 
 
 359 
 
 363 
 
 528 
 
 525 
 
 55 
 
 45 i 
 
 153 
 
 202 
 
 498 
 
 499 
 
 179 
 
 7 
 
 162 
 
 301 
 
 162 
 
 247 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Gravy for Saddle of Mutton .. .. 25 
 
 „ the Roast .. .. .. 343 
 
 Green Artichokes .. .. .. .. 413 
 
 Grouse, Consomme of .. .. .. 451 
 
 ,, Cremes of .. .. 298,391,451 
 
 ,, Curry of .. .. .. .. 482 
 
 ,, Fritot of .. .. .. .. 481 
 
 ,, Salmi .. .. .. .. 482 
 
 Haddock .. ... .. .. .. 376 
 
 „ and Eggs a la Moderne.. .. 39 
 
 ,, Cremes of.. .. .. .. 103 
 
 ,, Fillets of, en Fritot .. .. 4a 
 
 Ham, Broiled, a IT ndienne .. .. 38 
 
 „ ,, with Tomato Sauce .. 38 
 
 „ York_.499 
 
 Hare, Boudins of .. .. 69, 71 
 
 ,, Darioles of .. .. .. 265, 267 
 
 ,, Petits Boudins a la Chateaubriand 52 
 
 ,, Sauce for .. .. .. .. 56 
 
 Haunch of Mutton ..66, 68, 152, 345, 391, 514 
 „ Venison .. .. .. 426, 429 
 
 Herrings, Fillets of .. .. .. .. 36 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce .. .. 127,369,374,385 
 
 ,, Soup .. .. .. .. 292 
 
 Hot Pigeon Pie .. .. .. .. 152 
 
 Ice, Cherry Water .. .. .. .. 351 
 
 ,, Pineapple .. .. .. .. 317 
 
 ,, Pudding of Peaches .. .. .. 347 
 
 „ Raspberry Cream .. .. .. 351 
 
 ,, Strawberry .. .. . .. 317 
 
 Ices, Syrup for .. .. .. .. 306 
 
 Imperial Sauce .. .. 127,376,408 
 
 Indian Sauce for Salmon .. .. .. 161 
 
 ,, ,, Celery .. .. .. 406 
 
 Italian Creams .. .. .. .. 285 
 
 ,, Macaroni .. .. .. .. 19 
 
 „ Sauce.. .. .. .. .. 163 
 
 Jardiniere for Capons .. .. .. 305 
 
 „ Soup .13 
 
 ,, Vegetables .. .. .. 128 
 
 Jellies, Aspic .. .. .. .. .. 246 
 
 ,, Macedoine a la Moderne .. .. 349 
 
 Jelly, a la Russe .. .. .. .. 186 
 
 „ a la Victoria .. .. .. .. 188 
 
 ,, Aspic .. .. .. .. .. 296 
 
 „ Calf’s Feet .. .. 14,83,187,296 
 
 ,, Maraschino ... .. .. .. 203 
 
 „ Mosaique a la Franfaise .. .. 184 
 
 ,, of Oranges a l’Anglaise .. .. 117 
 
 ,, Punch .. .. .. .. .. 187 
 
 ,, Wine and Brandy .. .. .. 187 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes, .. .. .. 415 
 
 Julienne Soup .. .. .. .. 102 
 
 Kippered Herrings en Fritot .. .. 36 
 
 Kidneys Farcie en Fritot a l’ltalienne .. 40 
 
 Kromesky of Liver a la Russe .. .. 108 
 
 Lamb, Braized Saddle of .. .. .. 515 
 
 „ Cutlets .. .. 148, 2251 226 
 
 „ „ with Asparagus Peas 342, 345 
 
 ,, Epigram of .. . .. .. 277 
 
 „ Forequarter of .. 199,208,251 
 
 „ Leg of .. ... 515 
 
 ,, Puree a la Macedoine .. .. 274 
 
 ,, Roast Haunch of .. .. .. 514 
 
 ,, Saddle of .. .. 222 
 
 ,, Shoulder of .. _.. -• 5 I 5 
 
 ,, Sweetbreads en Fritot with Sauce 
 
 of Tomatoes .. .. .. 273 
 
 Lamb's Fry with Sauce of Tomatoes .. 273 
 
 Lard Frying ;.. ., . 79 
 
 Larks .. .. .. _ • • .. • • 238 
 
 ,, Farced aux Champignons .. .. 4°° 
 
53 § 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Leg of Mutton .. 
 
 75, 
 
 512 
 
 Oyster Fritot a l’Essence .. 
 
 . 
 
 ,. 
 
 87 
 
 „ Pork .. 
 
 
 521 
 
 ,, Omelette of .. 
 
 
 
 3 b 
 
 Lemons a l’ltalienne 
 
 
 349 
 
 „ Sauce .. .. 20, 55, 
 
 366, 
 
 37 S. 
 
 425 
 
 Lemon Water Ice .. 
 
 
 259 
 
 „ Soup .. 
 
 
 
 452 
 
 Leverets .. .. .. 301, 
 
 310,336 
 
 
 
 
 
 Liver and Bacon 
 
 
 79 
 
 Pains of Apples a la Royal 
 
 
 
 432 
 
 Lobster, Canapees of 
 
 .. 
 
 230 
 
 „ Orlean Plums 
 
 
 
 157 
 
 ,, Curry 
 
 
 88 
 
 ,, Apricots 
 
 58 , 
 
 CO 
 
 471 
 
 ,, Salad 
 
 
 230 
 
 ,, Rhubarb 
 
 
 
 Il8 
 
 ,, Sauce 
 
 
 124 
 
 Palestine Soup 
 
 
 
 5 i 
 
 Loin of Mutton 
 
 
 5!2 
 
 Parmesan, Bonnes Bouchees 
 
 
 
 122 
 
 ,, Pork .. 
 
 75 . 
 
 522 
 
 ,, Beignets .. 
 
 
 
 122 
 
 
 
 
 ,, Croutes .. 
 
 
 
 360 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 
 19 
 
 ,, Favorites 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 „ au Parmesan 
 
 
 503 
 
 ,, Risolettes 
 
 
 
 3 i 5 
 
 ,, Soup a la Reine 
 
 . , 
 
 338 
 
 Partridges a la Macedoine.. 
 
 
 
 490 
 
 Macedoine of Fruit Sauce .. 
 
 
 344 
 
 Partridge au Gratin .. 
 
 
 
 490 
 
 ,, Fruits , 
 
 
 18 8 
 
 ,, Consomme of 
 
 
 
 45 i 
 
 Mackerel 
 
 
 378 
 
 Partridges, Salad of.. 
 
 
 
 238 
 
 Maids of Honour 
 
 
 501 
 
 ,, Salmi of 
 
 426 
 
 429. 
 
 489 
 
 Maraschino Cream .. 
 
 
 286 
 
 ,, Stewed .. 
 
 
 
 487 
 
 „ Jellies. 
 
 
 203 
 
 Pascaiine 
 
 
 
 410 
 
 ,, Sauce .. 
 
 
 126 
 
 Parsley Sauce 
 
 
 
 378 
 
 Mashed Potatoes 
 
 
 403 
 
 Pastries a la Florentine 
 
 
 
 326 
 
 Mayonnaise, Sauce for Salmon 
 
 300, 302 
 
 ,, a la Moderne 
 
 . 
 
 
 328 
 
 Meranques a la Chantilly .. 
 
 
 120 
 
 Pastry Condd 
 
 
 
 328 
 
 „ Suisse a ia Creme 
 
 
 136 
 
 Peaches Stewed a 1 ’Americaine 
 
 141 
 
 179. 
 
 347 
 
 ,, with Almonds a la Creme 
 
 
 T 39 
 
 ,, Chartreuses of 
 
 
 
 l66 
 
 Milanaise Ragout for Turkey 
 
 . . 
 
 24 
 
 ,, Puree of 
 
 . 
 
 
 183 
 
 Millefruit Creams .. 
 
 
 281 
 
 Peach Sauce .. 
 
 
 
 344 
 
 Mince Meat .. 
 
 
 500 
 
 Pears, Stewed 
 
 
 
 175 
 
 >, Pies. 
 
 
 500 
 
 Peas 
 
 57 . 
 
 310, 
 
 412 
 
 Mint Sauce .. 
 
 246, 
 
 3 °° 
 
 ,, Stewed .. 
 
 
 484, 
 
 493 
 
 Mirletons a la Francaise 
 
 
 3 2 4 
 
 Periqueux Sauce 
 
 
 343 . 
 
 387 
 
 Mixed Fruit a la Parisienne 
 
 
 43 2 
 
 Petits Boudins ot Fowl a la Toulouse 
 
 
 235 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup .. 
 
 
 99 
 
 ,, ,, Hare a la Chateaubriand 
 
 52 
 
 Mullets 
 
 148, 
 
 379 
 
 Brioches au Parmesan 
 
 
 205, 
 
 213 
 
 ,, au four a l’ltalienne 
 
 
 148 
 
 ,, Cremes of Pheasants 
 
 
 
 473 
 
 Mulligatawny Soup.. 
 
 12, 15 
 
 ,, Pains of Fat Liver a la Cardinal .. 
 
 228 
 
 Mushrooms .. 
 
 
 4°9 
 
 „ „ Lobster a Mocerne 
 
 
 228 
 
 ,, Croutons for .. 
 
 
 65 
 
 ,, ,, Poulet a la Reine 
 
 
 
 22 Q 
 
 Mushroom Sauce for Fillets of Pigeons .. 
 
 247 
 
 ,, ,, Veal a la Bechemelle 
 
 
 89 
 
 Mutton, Boiled Leg of 
 
 
 512 
 
 ,, Savarins with Apricot Sauce 
 
 
 201 
 
 ,, ,, Neck of .. 
 
 
 5 i 4 
 
 ,, Vol-au-Vents a la Reine 
 
 . . 
 
 
 236 
 
 „ Cutlets .. .. 38,78, 
 
 129 
 
 198 
 
 Pheasants a la Reine 
 
 
 
 45 ° 
 
 ,, Croustades of 
 
 
 166 
 
 ,, Consomme of 
 
 
 
 448 
 
 ,, Darioles of .. 
 
 
 133 
 
 ,, Cremes of 
 
 
 473 
 
 476 
 
 ,, Haunch of.. .. 66,152, 
 
 345 
 
 391 
 
 ,, Curry of .. 
 
 
 
 477 
 
 ,, Leg of . 
 
 
 75 
 
 ,, Quenelle of 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 ,, Neck of 
 
 
 5 I 4 
 
 ,, Roast 
 
 
 
 499 
 
 ,, Omelette of 
 
 
 37 
 
 ,, Salad of .. 
 
 
 
 237 
 
 ,, Roast Loin of 
 
 
 5 i 3 
 
 ,, Salmi of .. 
 
 
 
 478 
 
 ,, Saddle of .. 
 
 
 no 
 
 Pigeons, Balotines .. 
 
 
 
 I29 
 
 ,, Shoulder of 
 
 
 513 
 
 ,, Compote of 
 
 
 
 IO7 
 
 ,, Toad in the Hole .. 
 
 , . 
 
 76 
 
 ,, Fillets of .. 
 
 
 
 249 
 
 
 
 
 Pigeon Pie 
 
 152 
 
 217 
 
 219 
 
 Neck of Mutton, Boiled 
 
 
 5 i 4 
 
 Pilau of Rice a l’Anglaise .. 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 Nougat of Almonds .. 
 
 
 530 
 
 Pineapple, Compote of 
 
 
 
 176 
 
 Noyeau Creams 
 
 . . 
 
 284 
 
 ,, Cream .. 
 
 
 
 285 
 
 ,, French 
 
 
 187 
 
 ,, Cream Ice 
 
 
 
 3*7 
 
 
 
 
 Pippin, Stewed 
 
 
 
 139 
 
 Olives .. 
 
 
 168 
 
 Piquant Sauce 
 
 
 401 
 
 413 
 
 Omelette of Chicken and Ham .. 
 
 . . 
 
 37 
 
 Plums, Orleans 
 
 
 
 157 
 
 ,, Fillets of Soles 
 
 . . 
 
 36 
 
 Plum Pudding 
 
 
 
 ,, Minced Beef .. 
 
 . . 
 
 37 
 
 Poivrade Sauce for Mushrooms 
 
 
 407 
 
 427 
 
 ,, ,, Mutton 
 
 . . 
 
 37 
 
 Pork, Boiled Belly of 
 
 
 
 522 
 
 ,, Oysters.. 
 
 
 36 
 
 , „ Leg of 
 
 
 . . 
 
 5-1 
 
 ,, Savoury 
 
 . . 
 
 37 
 
 ,, Croquettes of.. 
 
 
 
 92 
 
 Oranges, Compote of 
 
 . . 
 
 175 
 
 , Cutlets of 
 
 
 
 565 
 
 ,, Creams 
 
 
 286 
 
 ,, Roast Leg of .. 
 
 
 
 52* 
 
 ,, Jellies 
 
 , , 
 
 no 
 
 ,, ,, Loin of, with Robert Sauce 
 
 75 
 
 ,, Sauce 
 
 
 25 
 
 Port Wine Sauce 
 
 
 126 
 
 146 
 
 Orlean Plums 
 
 
 157 
 
 Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel 
 
 
 
 403 
 
 Oxtails and Champignons .. 
 
 . . 
 
 80 
 
 ,, au Gratin 
 
 
 ' . . 
 
 404 
 
 ,, Soup. 
 
 
 III 
 
 ,, Chips .. 
 
 
 
 401 
 
 Ox Tongue .. 
 
 34 i. 355 
 
 ,, , Croquettes .. 
 
 
 
 401 
 
 Oysters and Cod’s Liver au Gratin 
 
 . . 
 
 42 
 
 „ JdgsW 
 
 
 
 403 
 
 .. Croustades of 
 
 •• 
 
 385 
 
 „ New .. 
 
 
 
 208 
 
’Potato Paste .. 
 
 „ Saute 
 (Potatoes, Boiled 
 Poulet au Gratin 
 Poulets Fillets a la Prince 
 ,, Soufflees de .. 
 
 ,, Sauce a 1 ’Indienne 
 Prawn ,, 
 
 Prawns a la Prince .. 
 
 Prawn Sauce 
 Preserved Fruit Tartlets 
 ,, Game 
 „ Larks a 1 ’Aspic 
 ,, Partridges a 1 ’Aspic 
 „ Snipes a 1 ’Aspic 
 ,, Woodcocks a la Financ 
 Provincial Soup 
 Pudding a la Celestirie 
 
 ,, a la Duchesse 
 
 ,, Bread and Butter 
 
 ,, Ginger .. 
 
 ,, Glacee a la Nesselrode 
 ,, Plum 
 
 „ Rump Steak 
 
 ,, Yorkshire .. 
 
 Puff Paste 
 Punch Jelly .. 
 
 Puree of Apples a la Francaise 
 ,, Apricots a la Creme 
 
 ,, Fowl a la Reine 
 
 ,, Peaches a 1 Creme 
 
 „ Tomatoes 
 
 Quails, Ballctines of 
 ,, Cold Entrees of 
 ,, Essence of .. 
 
 ,, Farced a la Francaise 
 
 , ,, aux Truffes 
 
 ,. Peaches a la Creme 
 ,, Preparation of 
 ,, Roast.. 
 
 ,, Sauce.. 
 
 Quarter of Lamb, to- Roast 
 ,, ,, Sauce for 
 
 ■Quenelles, Dishing the 
 
 ,, for Financiere Ragout 
 
 ,, Garnishing the .. 
 
 „ Dory 
 
 ,, Leveret .. 
 
 ,, Pheasant.. 
 
 ,, Veal „ 
 
 „ Whiting.. 
 
 Rabbit, Fritot of 
 Ragout a la Chipolata 
 
 „ a la Financiere for Quails 
 
 „ a la Florentine 
 
 ,, en Matelote Normand 
 
 ,, for Fillets of Fowl .. 
 
 ,, Milanaise for Turkey 
 
 ., Toulouse 
 
 Raised Pie of Fowl a l’Aspic 
 ., „ Preserved Game 
 
 Raspberry Cream 
 Red Mullets .. 
 
 Rhubarb a la Royal. 
 
 Rice a l’Anglaise 
 „ au Conserve 
 ,, Cake a l’Ancienne 
 „ for Consomme of Fowl 
 ,, Pilau of a l’Anglaise . 
 
 ,, Souffles .. 
 
 ,, with Stewed Pears 
 Ris de Veau aux Tomates 
 , Risolettes au Parmesan 
 .Roast Black Game .. 
 
 ,, Ducklings and Quails 
 ,, Forequarter of Lamb « 
 
 208 
 300 
 
 3 2 
 292-3 
 
 34 
 368 
 336 
 
 z 5 j 24 
 21. 62, 336 
 297 
 
 80 
 62 
 301 
 247 
 301 
 56 
 
 24 
 35. 161 
 24, 71, 214 
 217 
 282, 357 
 380 
 118 
 520 
 154 
 213 
 147 
 4 i 
 80 
 175 
 
 498 
 315 
 
 499 
 175, 208 
 .. 251 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 539 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 63, 
 
 209 
 
 Roast Goose .. 
 
 .. 498 
 
 
 402 
 
 
 Haunch of Lamb 
 
 225.514 
 
 
 393 
 
 
 Haunch of Mutton .. 
 
 .. 152 
 
 
 85 
 
 
 Leg of Lamb .. 
 
 • • sis 
 
 
 52 
 
 
 Loin of Mutton 
 
 • • 513 
 
 5,72 
 
 73 
 
 
 Loin of Pork.. 
 
 .. 522 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 Pork. 
 
 
 
 367 
 
 
 Pheasants 
 
 .. 499 
 
 
 229 
 
 »> 
 
 Quails .. 
 
 .. 346 
 
 160, 
 
 3 6 7 
 
 11 
 
 Ribs of Beef .. 
 
 • • 507 
 
 
 324 
 
 
 Saddle of Lamb 
 
 . . 222 
 
 
 239 
 
 
 Shoulder of Lamb 
 
 • • 513 
 
 
 238 
 
 11 
 
 Sirloin of Beef.. 
 
 468,507 
 
 
 238 
 
 
 Turkey Poults 
 
 .. 346 
 
 
 238 
 
 Robert Sauce.. 
 
 . . 465 
 
 
 238 
 
 Roux 
 
 
 
 
 458 
 
 Rump Steak a l’lndienne .. 
 
 .. 38 
 
 
 114 
 
 
 ,, Broiled 
 
 77 
 
 
 2 Q 
 
 11 
 
 ,, Stewed a la Jardiniere 
 
 .. 78 
 
 
 153 
 
 Saddle of Lamb 
 
 
 
 254 
 
 
 Mutton, Roast .. 
 
 no 
 
 81, 
 
 469 
 
 51 
 
 Gravy for .. 
 
 25 
 
 
 75 
 
 Salad 
 
 a la F ran9aise.. 
 
 • • 255 
 
 
 468 
 
 »> 
 
 F rench.. 
 
 .. 499 
 
 
 363 
 
 U 
 
 of Fillets of Soles a 1 ’Aspic 
 
 ■ • 233 
 
 
 187 
 
 11 
 
 Larks 
 
 • • 238 
 
 
 180 
 
 ) i 
 
 Lobster en Mayonnaise a 1 Aspic 230 
 
 
 182 
 
 
 Pheasants .. 
 
 • • 237 
 
 
 243 
 
 51 
 
 Preserved Partridges 
 
 .. 23S 
 
 
 183 
 
 11 
 
 ,, Snipes .. 
 
 .. 238 
 
 
 298 
 
 
 ,, Woodcocks 
 
 .. 238 
 
 
 
 y y 
 
 Tomatoes .. 
 
 388, 394 
 
 
 169 
 
 Salmi of Grouse 
 
 
 
 246 
 
 i> 
 
 Partridge .. .. 426, 
 
 429, 489 
 
 
 298 
 
 i> 
 
 Pheasants .. 
 
 -1 . 478 
 
 
 168 
 
 
 Wild Ducks.. 
 
 .. 494 
 
 
 247 
 
 
 Woodcocks.. 
 
 .. 483 
 
 
 i8 3 
 
 11 
 
 Sauce for Quails .. 
 
 .. 3OO 
 
 29S, 
 
 308 
 
 Salmon a la Genoise.. 
 
 65, 7 ° 
 
 
 346 
 
 11 
 
 Creams 
 
 338 , 3 S 5 
 
 
 246 
 
 11 
 
 Mayonnaise .. 
 
 .. 302 
 
 Scollops .. .. 40,196, 210, 220 _ 
 
 „ Souchet of .. .. .. .. 498 
 
 Salt Beef, Aitch Bone of .. .. .. 512 
 
 ,, ,, Silver side of .. .. .. S 11 
 
 Sauces .. .7, 55 
 
 Sauce, Anchovy .. .. 197, 206, 377 
 
 ,, Apricot .. .. 201,207,344 
 
 ,, Asparagus .. .. .. .. 209 
 
 ,, Bechemelle .. 13, 125, 162, #06, 
 
 3 °° 344 . 4 ° 4 . 413 
 ,, Black-currant Jam .. .. .. 126 
 
 „ Bohemienne .. .. .. .. 407 
 
 ,, Brandy.. .. .. .. .. 468 
 
 „ Bread. 65, 163, 345 
 
 ,, Brown.. .. .. .. .. 292 
 
 ,, Butter .. .. 23, 125, 163, 246, 389 
 
 „ Caper.513 
 
 ,, Cardinal .. .. .. 127,425 
 
 ,, Champignons. 57, 125 
 
 ,, Chateaubriand .. .. .. 126 
 
 ,, Chestnut .. .. .. .. 206 
 
 „ Chipolata .. .. .. .. 56 
 
 ,, Cucumber .. .. .. .. 516 
 
 „ Curry .385 
 
 ,, en Matelote Normand .. 123,299 
 
 ,, Espagnol .. 13, 127, 128, 161, 292, 
 
 3 °o. 343 . 4°4 
 
 ,, Financiere .. 126, 163, 207, 344, 388 
 
 for Beignets a la Moderne.. 
 
 57 
 
 „ Brioche Pudding 
 
 •• 57 
 
 ,, Croquettes 
 
 -• 423 
 
 ,, Fritot of Poulet .. 
 
 •• 387 
 
 ,, Fritters of Rice .. 
 
 .. 163 
 
 ,, Ginger Pudding 
 
 .. 163 
 
 ,, Haunch of Mutton 
 
 .. 426 
 
 ,, Roast Leverets.. 
 
 .. 301 
 
540 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Sauce for Roast Partridge 
 ,, ,, Salmi of .. 
 
 ,, ,, Turkey Poults .. 
 
 ,, Fruit. 
 
 ,, Genoise and Oyster. . 
 ,, Hollandaise .. 
 
 127, 
 
 Horseradish for sirloin of Beef 
 
 I’AGE 
 127 
 426 
 247 
 344 
 55 
 
 369. 374 . 385 
 
 467 
 
 125, 206, 376, 408 
 161, 406 
 
 • • l6 3 
 
 127 
 
 126 
 
 3 oc ) 3 ° 2 , 343 
 206, 246, 300 
 
 • • 2 47 
 
 ,, Imperial 
 ,, Indian 
 ,, Italian.. 
 
 ,, Lobster 
 ,, Maraschino .. 
 
 ,, Mayonnaise . . 
 
 ,, Mint .. 
 
 ,, Mushroom 
 ,, Onion .. 
 
 „ Orange 
 
 Oyster .. 23,55, 
 
 ,, Parsley 
 ,, Peach . . 
 
 ,, Periqueux 
 ,, Piquant 
 ,, Poivrade 
 ,, Port Wine 
 ,, Prawn 
 ,, Quail .. 
 
 ,, Robert 
 ,, Salmi .. 
 
 ,, Savarin 
 ,, Shrimp 
 ,, Special 
 „ Supreme 
 ,, Tartarre 
 ,, Tomato 
 ,, Veloute 
 ,, Wine 
 
 Saute of Fillets of Whiting . . 
 
 ,, ,, a la Marengo 
 
 ,, Fowls .. 15, 18, 21 
 
 ,, Mutton Cutlets 
 ,, Potatoes 
 „ Wild Ducks 
 ,, for Fowl a la Marengo 
 Savarin, a la Parisienne 
 Savarins, Croutes of.. 
 
 ,, with Apricot Sauce 
 
 Savoury Custard for Clear Soup . 
 
 ,, Omelette 
 Scarlet Runners 
 Scollops of Beef 
 „ Dory 
 
 ,, Salmon 
 
 ,, Sweetbreads a la 
 
 ,, ,, „ Moderne 268 
 
 „ „ ,, en Fritot, 
 
 Sauce of Tomatoes 26Q 
 » Trout .. .. .. 173, 370 
 
 „ Veal Panee a l’ltalienne .. 275 
 
 ,, ,, with Tomato Sauce 276, 499 
 
 Seakale . . .. .. 208, 310, 407 
 
 •• 513 
 
 465, 467 
 46S, 507, 511 
 
 197 
 
 515 
 25 
 
 366, 375. 425 
 •• 378 
 
 •• 344 
 
 343. 387 
 
 401, 413 
 407, 427 
 126, 246 
 
 148,160,367 
 .. 246 
 
 •• 465 
 • • 300 
 I78 
 
 465, 467 
 22 
 
 10. 56, 343 
 
 • • 245 
 
 23 
 
 .. 18 
 
 ■ • 388 
 
 55 . 64, 465 
 280 
 
 33. I 32, 466 
 129 
 
 402, 469 
 
 •• 504 
 
 280 
 .. 117 
 
 176 
 201 
 298 
 37 
 
 •• 4 I 3 
 
 90 
 
 •• 369 
 
 40, 196, 210 
 Financiere 269 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton 
 Shrimp Sauce.. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 
 Smelts, Fried.. 
 
 Snipes .. 
 
 „ au C.ratin a la Macedoine. 
 
 ,, en Fritot a l’lmperial 
 
 ,, Farced a la Financiere 
 
 ,, ,, with Stewed Peas 
 
 Sole a la Colbert 
 
 Soles, Fillets of .. 30, 36, 40, 
 Souchet of Salmon 
 Souffiee Glacee a la Vanille 
 Soufflees de Poulets au Parmesan 
 ,, of Fowl, a la Bechemelle 
 ,, of Rice 
 
 Tartlets a la Reine 
 
 67, 238 
 
 • • 493 
 
 •• 493 
 
 • • 49i 
 
 ■ ■ 493 
 
 198 
 
 166, 354, 377 
 .. 498 
 
 .. 311 
 
 66, 72, 75 
 197, 211 
 .. 83 
 
 376 
 
 Soup ala Jardiniere.. .. .. .. 13 
 
 Soup a la Palestine .. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 5 1 * 7 1 
 
 ,, ,, Reine . 
 
 
 193 
 
 ,, Asparagus 
 
 
 147 
 
 ,, au Chasseur 
 
 
 244 
 
 ,, Calf’s Kidney. 
 
 
 445 
 
 „ ,, Tail .. .. * .. 
 
 
 447 
 
 ,, Carrot .. 
 
 
 102 
 
 ,, Clear 
 
 
 3°4 
 
 ,, Clear Turtle .. 
 
 
 435 
 
 „ Creme of Veal.. 
 
 
 446 
 
 ,5 Kel 
 
 
 458 
 
 ,, Hollandaise 
 
 
 292 
 
 ,, Julienne 
 
 
 102 
 
 ,, Macaroni a la Reine.. 
 
 
 338 
 
 ,, Mock Turtle .. 
 
 
 99 
 
 ,, Mulligatawny.. 
 
 
 12 
 
 ,, Oxtail .. 
 
 
 102. 
 
 ,, Oyster .. 
 
 
 452 
 
 ,, Provincial 
 
 
 45S 
 
 ,, Thick Giblet, .. 
 
 
 451 
 
 ,, Turbot ... 
 
 
 454 
 
 ,, Vermicelli 
 
 
 384 
 
 Spiced Beef .. 
 
 
 223 
 
 Spinach 
 
 71 
 
 404 
 
 Spring Chickens 
 
 222 
 
 251 
 
 Steak Rump .. 
 
 
 71 
 
 Stewed Apricots 
 
 
 142. 
 
 ,, Celery 
 
 
 4°5 
 
 ,, Chestnuts .. 
 
 
 199- 
 
 ,, Partridges .. 
 
 
 487 
 
 ,, Peaches 
 
 
 141 
 
 ,, Peas .. .. .. 4 
 
 12, 484 
 
 493 
 
 ,, Pears and Rice 
 
 
 175 
 
 ,, Seakale 
 
 
 407 
 
 Stocks .. 
 
 7 
 
 291 
 
 ,, Aspic Jelly .. 
 
 
 9 
 
 ,, Brown.. 
 
 
 9 
 
 ,, Calfs Foot .. 
 
 
 8 
 
 ,, White .. 
 
 
 3 , 10 
 
 Strawberries, Conserve of .. 
 
 
 i8 3 
 
 ,, Chartreuses of 
 
 256 
 
 314 
 
 ,, Fresh .. 
 
 203 
 
 Strawberry Cream .. 
 
 259 
 
 285 
 
 ,. Ice . 
 
 3*7 
 
 Stuffing for Goose .. 
 
 
 499 
 
 Sturgeon 
 
 ■ • 472-3 
 
 Supreme of Fillets of Fowl 
 
 34 i, 
 
 357 
 
 Supreme Sauce 
 
 10 
 
 Sweetbreads .. .. .. 19,295,300, 
 
 320 
 
 Syrup for Ices 
 
 
 306 
 
 Talmouses 
 
 
 47 i 
 
 Tartarre Sauce for Salmon.. 
 
 
 245 
 
 Tartlets of Mixed Preserved Fruits 
 
 
 324 
 
 Teal, Entrees of 
 
 
 505 
 
 Thick and Clear Turtle 
 
 
 424 
 
 ,, Giblet boup, a l’Anglaise .. 
 
 
 45 i 
 
 Throat Sweetbreads.. 
 
 
 I 9 / 
 
 Toad-m-the-Hole of Mutton 
 
 
 76 
 
 Tomato au four a la Bohemienne.. 
 
 
 407 
 
 ,. Farcie a la Moderne 
 
 
 407 
 
 ,, Sauce.. 
 
 23 
 
 401 
 
 Tomatoes a la Moderne . 
 
 254 , 
 
 ,, Darioles of . 
 
 
 306 
 
 ,, Puree of. 
 
 
 298 
 
 ,, Salad of. 
 
 
 394 
 
 Tongue . 
 
 19 , 
 
 no 
 
 ,, Ox ... ... ... 66 
 
 34 i. 
 
 355 
 
 ,, with stewed Chestnuts ... 
 
 199 
 
 Toulouse Ragot 
 
 24. 
 
 161 
 
 Trout a la Moderne. 
 
 236 
 
 „ Cremes of 
 
 
 122 
 
 ,, Scollops of 
 
 173 . 
 
 37 ° 
 
 1 urbot.. 
 
 387 
 
 ,, Fillets of 
 
 
 365 
 
 ,, Soup a la Cardinal .. 
 
 
 454 
 
 Turkey.. 
 
 24, 
 
 3 1 
 
 ,, Poults .. 
 
 34 °- 
 
INDEX 
 
 541 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Turkey Poults, Sauce for .. .. .. 24 
 
 Turtle and Venison Dinners .. .. 423 
 
 ,, Fins of a la Financiere -• .. 440 
 
 ,, en kari a la l’lndienne .. .. 441 
 
 .. Meat.437 
 
 .. Soup. 433 
 
 ,, Thick and Clear .. .. -. 424 
 
 Vanilla Cream .. .. .. . • 286 
 
 „ Sugar .311 
 
 Veal and Ham Pie .. .. .. in, 219 
 
 ,, Braized Fillet of .. .. .. 518 
 
 ,, „ Fricandeau of .. .. 519 
 
 ,, ,, Knuckles of .. .. .. 520 
 
 ,, Consomme .. .. .. .. 244 
 
 ,, Heartbreads .. .. .. .. 106 
 
 ,, Petit Pains of .. .. .. .. 89 
 
 ,, Quenelle of .. .. .. 21, 336 
 
 „ Roast Fillet of .. .. .. .. 517 
 
 ,, Roast Neck of.517 
 
 ,, Scollops of .. .. .. . - 275 
 
 ,, Stuffing for Leverets .. .. .. 310 
 
 Vegetable, 31, 163, 207,253, 318, 358, 392, 430 
 
 ,, Jardiniere .. .. .. *28 
 
 Veloute Sauce 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 18 
 
 Venison, Haunch of 
 
 426, 
 
 429 
 
 Vermicelli Soup 
 
 
 3S4 
 
 Viennoise-bake 
 
 
 136 
 
 Vol-au-Vents a la Reine .. 
 
 
 236 
 
 ,, a la Toulouse 
 
 
 149 
 
 ,, of Larks 
 
 
 86 
 
 Whipped Cream 
 
 
 3S8 
 
 Whitebait 
 
 
 l 63 
 
 Whitings, Fillets of .. 
 
 55 . 465 
 
 ,, Fried . 
 
 
 380 
 
 „ Quenelles of 
 
 
 298 
 
 Widgeon Entrees 
 
 
 505 
 
 Wild Ducks Grilled, Sauce Piquant 
 
 
 504 
 
 ,, Salmi of 
 
 
 494 
 
 ,, Sauce for 
 
 
 20s 
 
 ,, Saute of a l’lndienne 
 
 
 504 
 
 „ Stewed a la Begarrade 
 
 
 503 
 
 Wine Sauce .. 
 
 
 388 
 
 Woodcocks, Salad of a la Financiere 
 
 
 238 
 
 ,, en Kari a l’lndienne 
 
 
 484 
 
 York Ham. 
 
 
 499 
 
 Yorkshire Pudding .. 
 
 
 46s 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 A NEW COOKERY BOOK. 
 
 By SAMUEL HOBBS , 
 
 Author of “The Modern Kitchen Oracle,” formerly Chef de Cuisine to Messrs. Gunter & Co., and- 
 who also, from testimonials appended to the Work, will be seen to have given every satisfaction to 
 Royalty, Nobility, Clubs, large Taverns, and wherever engaged. 
 
 160 CULINARY DAINTIES. 
 
 Fop the Epicure, the Invalid, and the Dyspeptic. 
 
 NEW COOKERY BOOK by a Cook who, having dressed a 
 dinner at Frogmore House, received a message through the 
 principal attendant to the effect that he “ had dressed the best 
 dinner the Queen of England ever sat down to.” 
 
 EXTRACT FROM PREFACE. 
 
 “ A large number of the dishes will doubtless be new to many who practise the 
 culinary art, and they really are so ; and without presumption might truly be termed 
 la crevie de la creme of modern culinary art. To those who love a good dinner , my 
 great and successful practice for over thirty years tempts me to l'ecommend them as¬ 
 certain, if properly prepared, to give great satisfaction.” 
 
 FROM “VANITY FAIR.” 
 
 “ We have not had a cookery book written by a practical cook since Soyer’s and 
 Francatelli’s works. With these two far more portly volumes, Mr. Hobbs’ little 
 collection of receipts compares most favourably. Mr. Hobbs writes up to date. 
 His advice is limited to choice and somewhat elaborate dishes. He presupposes a. 
 thorough knowledge of roast and boiled, and wastes no time over elementary cook¬ 
 ing. If genius is really an infinite capacity for taking pains, the late chef of Gunter’s 
 should be called a genius, for he gives himself an infinite amount of trouble to explain 
 clearly how the various dishes should be prepared, and as a rule he succeeds. The 
 practical man shows in every page—almost in every line. The author 
 even tells us where to place the various cups, pans, and plates required, and how 
 to hold the meat or fowl, so as to carry out his instructions most speedily and most 
 neatly. We have seldom seen a better collection of attractive entrees,—never a 
 better code of instructions for realizing them.” 
 
 FROM “COURT JOURNAL.” 
 
 “ Soups and fish, and the plain roast and boiled dishes, are excluded from this 
 little work, and the author, who is a practical cook of high standing, confines himself 
 to dainties for the epicure, invalid, and dyspeptic. His directions are simple and 
 precise, and not only does he improve upon the ordinary cookery books, but he 
 includes a variety of novel dishes of his own.” 
 
 FROM “COURT CIRCULAR.” 
 
 “ Mr. Hobbs is evidently a chef de cuisine of wide experience and a fine taste in 
 all gastronomic matters, thoroughly entitled to speak with authority on all matters 
 connected with the table. Little wonder then that he has catered for Princes. Mr. 
 Hobbs justly regards cookery as one of the fine arts, and his receipts are all worthy 
 of the most careful attention. He is evidently a professed cook of no ordinary skill, 
 and this little book with toothsome recipes is valuable as recording the experiences 
 of such a man. We salute Mr. Hobbs as a veritable cordon bleu.” 
 
 DEAN & SON, PUBLISHERS, 160a, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 6d. FOR THE DESSERT TABLE. 6d. 
 
 AN AMUSING ACCOMPLISHMENT AND PASTIME. 
 
 FIGURES CUT OUT FROM FRUIT: How to Make Them. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH DIAGRAMS. 
 
 Is- HOUSEHOLD HINTS Is. 
 
 FOR 
 
 YOUNG HOUSEWIVES, 
 
 With Arrangements and Receipts for Forty Dinners. By MARTHA CAREFUL. 
 
 Twenty-third-edition, revised and improved. 
 
 6d. “CHEAP AND CHOICE” 6<J. 
 
 Cookery for Small Families with Small Incomes. 
 
 By Mrs. H. V. WHITCOMBE. 
 
 Little relishitig dishes combining excellence with economy. 
 
 In small families of the middle and working class, it is essential to have a book 
 of reference showing various ways in which cold meat, &c., can be re-dished. This 
 little work will answer the required purpose : for, by adopting the receipts in 
 “ Cheap and Choice,” it will be clearly proved that really digestible and appetising 
 dishes can be served at a trifling cost. 
 
 Fancy Uaper Covers, ©d.. 
 
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 THEIR DUTIES AND HOW TO PERFORM THEM, 
 
 FROM PAGE TO BUTLER. 
 
 Bj WILLIAMS ; 
 
 THIRD EDITION, REVISED BY THE EX-BUTLER TO THE EARL OF ROMNEY. 
 
 Price 2s. 6d. ; or with Addenda of “ Serviettes, or Dinner Napkins,” 3s. 6d. 
 
 l/6 SERVIETTES. 
 
 CLOTH GILT. - 
 
 1/6 
 
 CLOTH GILT. 
 
 DINNER N AP KI NS, 
 
 AND HOW TO FOLD THEM. 
 
 WITH ABOVE 
 
 ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 By Georgiana C. Clark. 
 
 DEAN & SON, PUBLISHERS, 16 Qa, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 Sixth Edition, Enlarged with Additional Receipts; Strongly bound, price 65. 
 
 452 VERY USEFUL RECEIPTS. 
 
 Plainly written so as to be intelligible to servants and persons ol moderate capacity, 
 
 WITH 
 
 Designs for Preparing and Laying out Desserts, Dinners a la 
 
 Russe, &e., 
 
 By WILLIAM JEANE, 
 
 Chief Confectioner at Messrs. Gunter’s, of Berkeley Square, W., 
 
 CONFECTIONERS TO HER MAJESTY, 
 
 GUNTER’S MODERN CONFECTIONER 
 
 AND 
 
 BISCUIT 
 
 A Practical Illustrated Guide to the Latest and Most Improved Methods of Making 
 
 Biscuits, plain and fancy. 
 Bottled Fruit. 
 
 Bread, Vienna and un¬ 
 fermented. 
 
 Cakes. 
 
 Candies. 
 
 Caramel. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 Chartreuse Cake. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Crystalized Fruits. 
 Comfits. 
 
 Compotes. 
 
 Entremets. 
 
 Fancy Biscuits. 
 
 # * 
 
 * 
 
 Fancy Ices. 
 
 Fritters. 
 
 Fruit Pastes. 
 
 Fruits in Brandy. 
 
 Gum Paste. 
 
 Iceings. 
 
 Ices, Cream ; Water and 
 Perfumed. 
 
 Jams. 
 
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 Liqueurs. 
 
 Liqueur Cups. 
 
 Lozenges. 
 
 Macedoine of various 
 Fruits. 
 
 Marmalade. 
 
 Napoleons. 
 
 Omelettes. 
 
 Perfumed Ices. 
 Pipings. 
 
 Preserved Fruits. 
 Rock Sugar. 
 
 Scones. 
 
 Sweets for Table. 
 Syrups. 
 
 Unfermented Bread. 
 Vienna Bread. 
 Whipped Jellies. 
 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 
 All the Receipts for Pastry, Cakes and Sweetmeats are original 
 
 Fancy paper cover, 6d. 
 
 ECONOMIC COOKERY. 
 
 By Georgiana Clark. 
 Containing useful hints and plain 
 directions as to economy and comfort in 
 marketing, cooking, and preparing Inva¬ 
 lids’ and Children’s Food; numerous 
 illustrations. 
 
 Cloth, is. 6 d. 
 
 Confectionery, Pastry, Preserving, 
 
 By George Reed. 
 
 Furnishes splendid practical working 
 Receipts for the use of Families, Pastry¬ 
 cooks and Confectioners. 
 
 1 s. fancy covers: \s. 6 d. cloth gilt, with four 
 pages of coloured illustrations to show the 
 manner of serving with taste and effect. 
 
 COOKERY MADE EASY; 
 
 OR, 
 
 COOKERY FOR THE MIDDLE CLASSES. 
 
 By a Lady. 
 
 This book being drawn up wholly 
 from practice and attentive observation 
 is not a mere compilation. By it cooks 
 derive plain and complete directions how 
 to cook everything properly and in the best 
 manner , so that persons of limited income 
 may furnish a genteel table properly at a 
 moderate expense. 
 
 DEAN & SON, PUBLISHERS, 160 a, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
A LUXURY 
 
 UNKNOWN IN ENGLAND! 
 
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 (SEE THAT YOU HAVE NONE OTHER) 
 
 F rrr as used 
 
 ftt IN pARIS > 
 
 IN HIGHEST PERFECTION, 
 
 TDNPBNCB ?m POUND. 
 
 This is the Choicest and most carefully selected Coffee, 
 
 “Roasted on the French Principle,” 
 
 and mixed with the Finest Bruges Chicory. 
 
 5 lbs. in Tins FREE by Parcel Post for 5/6. 
 
 2 lbs., 2/4 to any Post Town in the United Kingdom. 
 
 Postal Orders from is. 6d. to iov. 6d. may now be had for id. 
 
 from all Post Offices. 
 
 t yf f y yff fy ? w w v w w v ww v ▼ < r r r rr ff w 
 
 BARBER & COMPANY, 
 
 274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. 
 6i, BISHOPSGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
 AND 
 
 102, Westbourne Grove, W. 
 King’s Cross, N. 
 
 BRIGHTON—147, North Street. 
 BIRMINGHAM—Quadrant. 
 LIYERPOOL—1, Church Street. 
 
 42, Great Titchfleld Street, W. 
 The Borough, London Bridge. 
 
 MANCHESTER-93, Market Street. 
 BRISTOL—38, Corn Street. 
 PRESTON—Fishergate. 
 
 HASTINGS—Havelock Road and Roberton Street. 
 
EDGE’S LION 
 ESSENCE OF BEEF 
 
 AND OTHER 
 
 FOOD DELICACIES. 
 
 TURTLE AND OTHER SOUPS, 
 STOCK FOR SOUP. 
 
 MADE FROM THE HIGHEST CLASS MEATS. 
 
 I IV O- L A. S S JARS, 
 
 THEREFORE QUITE FREE FROM ANY METALLIC TASTE. 
 
 None Genuine which do not bear the fac-simile signature—EDGE BROTHERS. 
 
 Dr. Godwin W. Timms, of Wimpole Street, writes:—“You have produced an Essence 
 of Beef which is really what it professes to be. It is a true Nerve Tonic and Stimulant, 
 the most concentrated of all flesh extiacts with which I am acquainted, and also the 
 most palatable.” 
 
 EDGE’S “ LION ” ESSENCE OF BEEF. 
 EDGE’S “ LION ’’ REAL TURTLE SOUP. 
 EDGE’S “ LION ” STOCK FOR SOUP. 
 EDGE’S BRITISH LION SAUCE. 
 
 EDGE’S BRITISH LION RELISH. 
 
 Price List and Testimonials on application, post free. 
 
 EDGE BROS., Limd., 17, Farringdon Road, E.G. 
 
 And of all Chemists and Grocers. 
 
 THE UNIVERSAL HOUSEHOLD REMEDIES I! 
 
 Ulijy 
 
 
 
 i m 
 
 
 iese excellent 
 
 FAMILY 
 
 MEDICINES 
 
 are invaluable 
 
 in the treatment of all ail 
 
 ments incidental to every HOUSEHOLD. The PILLS PURIFY, REGULATE and 
 STRENGTHEN the whole system, while the OINTMENT is unequalled for the core of 
 Bad Legs, Bad Breasts, Old Wounds, Sores and Ulcers. Possessed of these REMEDIES, 
 every Mother has at once the means of curing most complaints to which herself or 
 Family are liable. 
 
 N.B.—Advice Gratis at 78, New Oxford Street (late 553, Oxford Street), London, daily 
 
 between 11 and 4, or by letter. 
 
! plfHfe @SS® mtm 
 
 
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