mtmmmmmm^ i M_^ SCENERY OF THE PLAINS, MOUNTAINS AND MINES: OR A MARY KEPT UPON THE OVERLAND ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA, BY WAY OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE: TRAVELS IN THE CITIES, MINES, AND AGRICULTURAL DISTRICTS- EMBRACING THE RETURN BY THE PACIFIC OCEAN AND CENTRAL AMERICA, In fye geqfr 1850, '51, '52 wd '53. FRANKLIN LANGWORTHY. I speak of things which I have seen and do know, touching men and object* in a stirring period of my country's history. OGDENSBURGH: PUBLISHED BY J. C. SPRAGUE, BOOK -SELLER. HITCHCOCK & TILLOTSON, PRINTERS. 1855. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854,. By Franklin Langwortiiy, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Northern District of New York. PREFACE. The year Eighteen Hundred and Fifty, is an. epoch that will be memorable in the history of the United States. It was a year that will be long remembered, as one of unparalleled emigration, suffering, and death. The official announcement of the astounding facts in relation to the Gold Discoveries in California, seemed to move the whole Nation, as with an electric shock, and a vast multitude, of more than sixty thousand hu- man beings, were seen rushing across immense plains and deserts, and over tremendous mountains, flushed with high hopes, and eager to fill their coffers with the glittering dust. I was an eye-witness of these exciting scenes, and assisted by my presence to swell the num- bers of the mighty throng. The following pages consist of a brief description of the varied scenes I have witnessed, and the countries through which I have passed, in going the Land Route ko^*+ IV. PREFACE. to California, by way of the Great Salt Lake, and the return by way of Central America, and the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. I have personally surveyed many of the Mildest and most picturesque scenes to be found upon our globe. I have kept a Daily Journal, while going and returning, (but not while I was residing at Salt Lake, or in Cali- fornia.) Of those countries I have given general descrip- tions. I have designed to give such plain and graphic accounts, as would enable the reader to see the various objects delineated, as though he was personally present. The work, with all its imperfections, is hereby offered to an inquisitive "and enlightened public, by its most devoted and humble servant, THE AUTHOR. Near Mount Carroll, Illinois. \*r?>A CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. PAGK. Prom the Mississippi to Council Bluffs, 7. CHAPTER II. The Plains along the Platte to Fort Laramie, 24. CHAPTER III. The Black Hills and Rocky Mountains — Arri- val at Salt Lake, 57. CHAPTER IV. Scenery of Salt Lake Valley, and an account of the Mormons, 86. CHAPTER V. Saline and Hot Springs — Goose Creek and the Humboldt River, 111. CHAPTER VI. The Great Desert — Carson Valley — The Sier- ra Nevada Mountains — Arrival in Cali- fornia, 142. VI. CONTENTS, CHAPTER VII. FAOB. Scenery of California and the Miner, . . . -. . 181. CHAPTER VIII. Miscellaneous descriptions, throwing further light on California^ incidents and scenes, 210. CHAPTER IX. Twenty Days in San Francisco, and the Agri- cultural District of San Jose Valley* . . 234. CHAPTER X. » Scenes on the Pacific Ocean, and Views along the Coasts of Mexico and Central America, 247. CHAPTER XI. Central America — Lake Nicarauga, with its Volcanic Island — The River San Juan — Voyage upon the Atlantic to New York, . 266. CHAPTER XII. Glance at New York, and the Country from thence to the banks of the mississippi — Philosophy of the Prairies, < < . 303. JOURNAL. CHAPTER I. Start for California — Outfit — Mississippi river. — Companies of fifty per- sons recommended. — A returned Californian. — Tipton. — State of Iowa. — Lost from my Company. — Iowa City, the Capital. — Iowa river, &c. — Number of Emigrants passed Iowa City. — Newton, Jasper County. — Quarrel at Skunk river — Fort Desmoines.— Scarcity of timber in West- ern Iowa.— Fondness for Titles. — Inscriptions on trees, bones, &c. — Mormon settlements. — Kanesville, a Mormon town — Emigrants. — Country about Council Bluffs. — High price of Provisions. — Mormon Spe- culations. — Trade among Emigrants. — Organization of Companies. — Mormon Emigrants for Salt Lake. — General Character of the Emigrants. — Captain Turner's Company. — Preaching. — Crossing the Missouri. START FOR CALIFORNIA — OUTFIT MISSISSIPPI RIVER. April 1st, 1850. — Early in the morning I took leave of home, and with somewhat anxious forebodings trav- eled to Savanna, a small town and steamboat landing on the Mississippi river, thirty-five miles below Galena, Illinois. I was aware that I had now undertaken a long, wearisome, and hazardous journey; that two or three years must, in all probability, roll away before I could expect to return, if life and health were spared. 7 8 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. I however made an effort to drive all gloomy thoughts from my mind, and to set my face with determined re- solution towards the West. My associates were nine in number. Our conveyance was two wagons, with seven horses ; a team by no means sufficient for the under- taking. There should have been twelve horses to a company as numerous as ours. A less team might suf- fice, if travelers knew what kinds and quantities of baggage to take on board. It is not necessary to start for California with any surplus bedding or clothing ; it makes heft and especially bulk, is generally thrown away on the road, and if not, is seldom needed after you arrive there^ Two blankets, one suit of clothing, made of strong cloth, an extra shirt or two, and an extra pair of shoes and hose, is a sufficient outfit as to bedding and clothing. To every ten men, there ought to be a cloth tent, twelve feet square. If, in addition to these. you have a few dishes, and simple cooking tools, and provisions for each, person sufficient to last one hundred days after leaving Council Bluffs, you will be prepared to go to the gold region without going through the valley of the Great Salt Lake. COMPANIES OK FIFTY PERSONS RECOMMENDED. I would also recommend that men go in companies of fifty or more, as it makes easy the duty of standing on guard. Each individual ought to be armed with either a rifle or revolver. It is small parties, from five to twenty, and those who are badly armed, that have been pillaged or massacred by the savages. As to the kind of team requisite, I think it makes but little difference whether oxen, cows, horses, or RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. i) mules are used, to draw the wagons ; but it is indis- pensably necessary, that every animal be in good working condition when it leaves the Bluffs. Some companies have gone through with pack horses or mules. I think, however, that there ought to be at least one wagon to every twenty -live men, to serve as a hos- pital or conveyance for the sick, in case of necessity. We this day crossed the Mississippi, on a flat boat, to the town of Sibula, on the Iowa side of the river. We here pitched our tent for the remainder of the day and night, and commenced cooking our own food, and trying the experiment of a camp life. Some one ob- served that it is April fool's day, and that we might yet find ourselves embarked on a foolish expedition. Si- bula is sixteen hundred miles above New Orleans, and yet the majestic Father of rivers is here more than a mile broad, with a deep and strong current, moving three or four miles per hour. Distance, traveled ten miles. A RETURNED CALIFORNIA!*. April 2d. — Started about noon, and moved on upon a very muddy road about four hours, and encamped near a small creek. A rain came on, which continued through the night, and our company remained in camp. As to myself, I put up at the house of an acquaintance in the vicinity. A returned Californian, by the name of Pope, arrived this night at home, in this neighbor- hood. We understood that he had made quite a for- tune, but we did not learn the amount. This intelli- gence was cheering to our travelers. Distance traveled, ten miles. April 3d. — Remained in camp. 10 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA, TIPTON. ' April 4th.— Moved on to within four miles of Spring- field, Jackson county, Iowa, and encamped by the side of a creek, in an open, rolling prairie. April 5th. — Encamped in a grove surrounded by a splendid prairie country. Distance, fifteen miles. April 6th. — Encamped in an uninhabited house. Here we found good stabling and other accommoda- tions. The owner had started for the gold region. April 7th. — Eight miles, brought us to Tipton, the county seat of Cedar county. It has a court-house, and is a small but thriving village, standing on prairie land, one mile east of a large grove. It being Sunday, our company concluded to encamp in the vicinity through the remainder of the day. I stayed in the town, and addressed a large audience at the court-house in the evening. Distance, eight miles. STATIC OF IOWA. April 8th. — Early in the morning I started to find our company, but did not succeed ; and after three hours' fruitless exertion, fortunately came across a neigh- bor from Savanna, bound to California, who thought .1 had better proceed with him as far as Iowa City, and there wait or look for my company. I did so. We encamped in a tent, near a tavern. Thus far, through the state of Iowa, we find the country thinly settled, but the soil is fertile, the water good, and there is a tolerable supply of timber. It will ultimately be a rich and populous country. The land is high and rolling. Distance, twenty miles. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 11 LOST FROM MY COM!' ANY. April 9th. — At nine o'clock, arrived at Iowa City, the capital of the state. I found nothing of my com- pany, but concluded to wait for it. The neighbor, with whom I had traveled, went on. Happily for me, about noon, our company arrived. I found they had made diligent search for me, as well as I for them, before leaving Tipton, and had arrived at the conclusion that I must have gone forward. They then started, and as it happened, took the south, whilst we took the north road to the City. We find great numbers of emigrants at this place. Instances have been known on this jour- ney, in which traveling companions, and even near relatives, fathers and their sons, have been separated from each other, and have never met until sometime after their arrival in California. Ton might as well search for a needle in a hay-mow, as for a person lost in such an endless throng. Distance, six miles. IOWA CITY, THE CAPITAL. April 10th. — In this City, we learn that forage for teams is excessively scarce and dear farther on towards Council Bluffs, and grass has not as yet started upon the prairies. In view of these facts, we have concluded to tarry awhile in this place, until there is a better prospect as to feed. The teams that have already gone- forward, it is said, have devoured all the hay and grain, and the road is now continually thronged with emi- grants. Many companies are encamping here for the same reason as ourselves. We encamp in an uninhab- ited house, near the ferry across Iowa river, one hun- dred rods west of the city. 12 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. In this city there is a state-house, a large and splendid edifice, constructed of stone of a light color. It was built at the expense of the General Government, while this region of country was a territorial jurisdiction. There are also several splendid churches, and two or three thousand inhabitants. The buildings are all new, and the place has a thrifty appearance. In the vicinity is an extensive forest of oak timber, and an excellent farming country around. An immense number of teams are now daily crowding through the town. They are from the states forming the northern portion of the great Mississippi valley. IOWA river, &c. Took a look at the Iowa river. It seems to be about sixty yards wide ; at present, ten feet deep, and quite rapid. Small steamboats ascend the river to this place at high water. "We hear a report that from ten to twenty thousand emigrants are now at Council Bluffs, and that their teams are suffering for provender, and are living upon browse. These alarming reports have had the effect to allay, in some degree, the rage of the "gold fever;" many have become discouraged, and have here turned about, and set their faces towards home. An immense majority, however, are not so much affrighted, but that they are determined to proceed, at all hazards, even should they chance to " see the elephant," trunk and all, before they get to the land of gold. " A faint heart never wins the fair lady," is a proverb often repeated by these daring gold seekers. April 13th. — Still encamped at the ferry. The weather is delightful. Iowa City is, at this time, a RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 13 place of great traffic ; the emigrants will leave in this place a large amount of money, paid out for grain, provisions, and all sorts of merchandise. The grass upon the prairies begins to look a little green, and we begin to be impatient to be again on our way. We remained at our encampment, at the ferry, until the 18th instant. April 18th. — Packed up our baggage, and proceeded on our long journey, through a country thinly settled, and but a small amount of timber ; the land, however, seems to be fertile, and the soil of a dark color ; the face of the land, rolling prairie. Distance, twenty-five miles. NUMBER OF EMIGRANTS PASSED IOWA CITY. April 19th. — 'When we left Iowa City, two thousand teams had crossed the ferries at that place. Three or four persons are about the average to a team, so we perceive that about six thousand travelers are now ahead of us upon this single road ; and this road is but one, among scores of others, upon which emigrants are now passing along, and wending their way towards the golden region of California. We passed " Marengo," a name famous in the history of battles. It is a very small village, though named after the bloody field where "Napoleon the Great," achieved one of his greatest triumphs over the Austrians. Distance, thirty miles. April 20th. — The road is found to be extremely good, running through vast tracts of uninhabited, though fer- tile lands. Timber becomes more scarce as we proceed. Distance, thirty miles. 14 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. NEWTON, JASPER COUNTY. April 21st. — Passed through a small place called .Newton, the county seat of Jasper county, named, J suppose, in honor of Sergeants Jasper and Newton, the bravest of the brave, and who served under General Marion in the war of the Revolution. Distance, eighteen miles. QUARREL AT SKUNK RIVER FORT DESMOINES. April 22d. — Found several miles of the worst pos- sible traveling upon the marshy bottom lands, bordering Skunk river. We crossed this narrow and deep stream, at a ferry, with the owner of which a part of our com- pany and several others, had a loud quarrel, on account of the extortionary price charged for ferriage ; some physical force was used, some bowie knives and pistols displayed, and great threatenings were made, but no blood was shed. Distance, sixteen miles. April 23d. — Arrived at old Fort Desmoines about noon, and crossed the Desmoines river, which at this place is two hundred yards wide, and extremely rapid, the water being high. There is here an old frontier fort, belonging to the United States, not now occupied as a garrison. Here is a fine flourishing town, of one thou- sand inhabitants, or thereabouts, and a new court-house, in which I gave a lecture in the evening. Distance, fourteen mile^. April 24th. — Continued our course over wide prai- ries, until we crossed a small river with high steep banks, and encamped on the margin of the stream, at Brown's ford, in a thick grove of large oak trees. Dis- tance, thirty miles. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 15 April 25th. — Encamped in a small grove, surrounded by an immense prairie. Distance, twenty -five miles. April 26th. — Encamped on the East fork of the river - Nodaway. We cross three forks of this stream. They are all fordable. Distance, twenty miles. SCARCITY OK TIMBER IN WE8TERN IOWA. April 27th. — All this western part of Iowa seems re- markably destitute of timber. The soil is in all places • fertile, and covered with luxuriant grass. I believe there are ten thousand acres of prairie, to one acre of timber, in all the region through which we have passed since leaving Iowa City. At some future clay, rail roads w r ill doubtless cross this immense natural meadow, on which building materials may be transported, and this vast solitude become thronged with inhabitants. Distance, thirty miles. FONDNESS FOR TITLES. April 28th. — Traveled a part of the day, and passed a company of emigrants in a grove, where a preacher was addressing a small congregation of travelers. I observe that an unusual number of the emigrants are professional men. Yv r e have an abundance of preachers of all denominations, and crowds of learned counselors in law ; whilst almost every tenth man has the title of doctor. It has been remarked by some foreign trave- ler in America, that the people of the United States are peculiarly fond of titles. On this road, almost every man has a title of some kind. We have any amount of generals, colonels, majors, captains, judges, squires, RMON THEOLOGY. As to Mormon theology, or system of religions belief, it is very difficult to describe. Their theory is a com- pound of all the creeds on earth — Jewish, Pagan, Ma- hommedan and Christian. I give a brief summary of their doctrines, gleaned from various conversations with the Mormons and their leaders : 1st. They believe in a multitude of Gods, each pre- siding over a certain portion of the material universe. I did not learn that they believed in any one Deity that was supreme over all the others. "Whenever I asked direct questions on this point, I was always answered evasively. 2d. The only God with whom we in this planet are concerned, is the "Father of the human race," the Being who inspired men to write the Bible, and the Book of Mormon, upon the golden plates, discovered and translated miraculously by Joe Smith. 3d. A true Saint will hereafter arise from one degree of exaltation to another, until he finally becomes a God, and can create a world of his own, and people it with inhabitants. 4th. The personal form of God is precisely that of a human being. 5th. The power to work miracles is still possessed by all time believers, and such are the " Latter Day Saints," and no others. 100 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. 6th. When Christ comes the second time, he will establish a temporal kingdom, and reign as a literal king over all the earth ; and this king will re-establish the law of Moses, and priesthood of Aaron. 7th. Water baptism by immersion is an indispensable form of initiation into the visible kingdom of Christ, and when properly baptised, the disciple receives the Holy Ghost, and becomes the medium of miraculous power. 8th. A member of the church can be baptised in be- half of those who are literally dead, and who have died without receiving this ordinance, and such baptism is efficacious by way of substitution. 9th. Polygamy is a part of the ancient order of the church, and therefore still in force. They style themselves Mormons, or Latter Day Saints ; all others they denominate Gentiles, or heathen. They generally believe in a hell, of limited duration, but some hold that punishment is endless. They be- lieve that when Christ comes personally to set up his kingdom, all obstinate Gentiles that mav at that time be found will be swept from the world. They also hold that the present organization of the Church of Latter Day Saints is only a prelude to Christ's second coming and kingdom. WOMEN ENSLAVED AT SALT LAKE. All Mormons, both high and low, are quite flippant in defense of their doctrines and practices. This has been remarked in reference to many of the women among them, who appear to have a peculiar zeal in the cause. It is also said, that not a few of the women RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 101 would be glad to be free from this society. But the women are truly a conquered people at Salt Lake. If they have any misgivings of conscience, they dare not whisper their doubts in the ear of any mortal. Such is the despotic system under which they live. The foregoing account of the Mormons, is in accord- ance with the best information I have been able to gain, and much of it the result of what I saw and heard per- sonally. I wish them no harm, but at the same time apprehend that great evils will come upon them unless they reform, speedily, totally and radically. HYPOCRISY AND TREACHERY OF MORMONS. ■ With reference to the religion of the Mormons, there is one consideration that is of importance to understand. Notwithstanding the Mormons profess to believe as much as all other sects put together, yet if the truth could be told, they are nearly all fully conscious that the whole scheme is a gross humbug and piece of de- ception, which they are attempting to palm upon the world. I would not state this, if I had not had an op- portunity to ascertain the fact, by _ means of proofs which to my mind had the authority of a demonstration. To state the process by which I arrived at this im- portant information, would occupy too many pages for the present work. Many persons who are but little acquainted with the Mormons, are astonished that people can be so ignorant and superstitious as to believe in such things as Mormons profess. But let such as- tonishment cease, for not one in a hundred at Salt Lake is so ignorant as to believe in the system embraced in this theory, or any part of it. Why, then, do they pro- 102 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. less to believe it ? This question is more difficult to answer. I, however, will merely suggest, that their theory forms their bond of union — is an excuse for the gratification of their passions — is a cloak for all their iniquitous proceedings — fosters their ambitious love of power, and priestly domination — hence their attach- ment to their theory, and determined zeal in its defence. It is my opinion that the Mormon community are not a whit behind the times as to general intelligence. They are knaves, rather than fools. But they have de- signs to accomplish, and their theory of government and religion is the grand instrumentality in attaining the ends at which they aim. As to myself, while I tarried at Salt Lake, I labored some in the wheat harvest, and gave a scientific lecture in the Bowery, and by these means raised money to prosecute my journey. On my arrival at Salt Lake, my funds were at rather a low ebb. I suffered a little from the tyranny of Brigham Young, but to relate my own private griefs is not the design of this work, and I therefore let them pass. To conclude this subject, Mormonism amounts vir- tually, to sedition or treason against the National Gov- ernment, as their theory declares that Mormons are not subject to any human government, and hence they feel themselves under no obligation to pay any respect to the civil laws, or to those who administer them. When- ever, therefore, they pretend to obey the laws of the nation, it is all a piece of hypocrisy, to gain some sin- ister end. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 103 TREASONABLE AND DANGEROUS DESIGNS. Whenever the Mormons gain sufficient numbers, they will, without doubt, throw the mask entirely oft', proclaim Utah an independent nation, and bid de- fiance to the United States. They have virtually done tliis already, and almost any Mormon at Salt Lake will tell you that such is their fixed determination ; to bring- all this about, is the object towards which all their op- erations are constantly directed. They are determined to transform this free Republic into a despotism, with some Mormon prophet for an autocrat. Many Mormons seem to think that the time has already arrived, when the prophet's standard of de- fiance ought to be unfurled. But is there any reason to apprehend danger from the increasing numbers and power of this upstart sect? Answer: In 1850, the Mormon prophet at Salt Lake affirmed that their num- bers, in all parts of the world, amounted to five hun- dred thousand. If this be a fact, Joe Smith has gained as great a number of followers in twenty-five years as Christianity gained in the first century of the Christian Era. Neither Christ or Mahomet gained converts like the Prophet of Nauvoo. CRAFT IN GAINING CONVERTS. The means of proselyting put in requisition by the Mormons, are immense. Their missionaries are now scouring every quarter of the globe, and the isles of the ocean. As the result of these operations, thousands and tens of thousands of their proselytes are annually landed on our shores, and still the work proceeds with an accelerated velocity. At this rate, how long will it 104 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. be before Mormonism will become a tremendous power, directing the movements of a countless host of men, more dangerous in their principles than the followers of the Prophet of Mecca, or the murderous hordes that followed the bloody standards of Glengis and Tamer- lane, and who, in the course of twenty years, destroyed fourteen millions of people in Asia. An ancient Bible Prophet had a vision of a cloud, gathering in the midst of the clear blue sky. It was, at first, so diminutive in size, as scarcely to attract notice ; but upon looking again, it had increased its dimensions, and continuing to enlarge, it soon became a mighty shower, and poured a deluge of water upon the parched earth. Thus Mormonism, like a portentous cloud, is gathering in blackness behind the Rocky Mountains. Being seen from so distant a point of observation, it appears so small that it scarcely attracts the notice of the Government, or the nation. Let this cloud alone a few seasons more, and suddenly it will darken all the western heavens, while from its dismal front a thousand lightnings will gleam, and its thunders shake the con- tinent from sea to sea. A second race of Saracens, like swarms of African locusts, will overspread the land, stripping every green leaf from the tree of liberty. But some will still ask, can there be danger of such progress in this work of darkness, under the resplendent light of the Nineteenth Century? In reply, I am willing to admit, that the present is an age of progress, and a great number of truly enlightened minds may be found in different countries. The distinguished writer and philosopher, Dr. Thomas Dick, estimates the number of the truly enlightened in Europe, at two RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 105 millions, or only one in one hundred and twenty-five of the population who are properly enlightened in the principles of science, morality and religion. This esti- mate leaves still in partial darkness, even in Europe, two hundred and forty-eight millions of human beings. If the philosopher even approximates the true number, you "will perceive that abundant materials remain liable to become the devoted followers of vile impostors, and the zealous advocates of false and dangerous theories. But what is the secret of the wonderful success of the Mormon missionaries ? I reply, it is not because they convince people of the truth of the Mormon theory of religion. As I stated before, there are few among them so ignorant as to believe in any part or portion of* Mormon theology. The secret of this unparalleled suc- cess, consists in several particulars. 1st. All the preachers of Mormonism are a species of Jesuits. With them, the end sanctities the means. As their theory embraces a part of every other, they can literally " become all things to all men," in theo- logy, without going beyond the limits of the Mormon faith. Mormonism is not like an almanac, calculated for the meridian of some particular place, but will serve, without essential variation, for all latitudes, and all meridians from pole to pole. 2d. They hold out the promise of great temporal benefits. To the landless of Europe and America, they proffer farms without cost. They say to the European laborer, who is strongly predisposed to emigrate to the United States, join our church, adopt our principles, obey our leaders, and you shall be assisted to emigrate to a land fertile as Eden's primitive garden, and you 14 106 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. « may have, without money, and without price, as much of the soil as you desire ; and if sickness, or other mis- fortune, overtakes you, our whole community is bound to lend you its aid. These are convincing arguments, especially when addressed to the toiling peasantry of the Old World. 3d. The more opulent have the promise of office in the church, and various pecuniary advantages. At Salt Lake you may see many of these distinguished characters, living in the style of Turkish pachas, in spacious mansions, surrounded by smaller tenements, filled with the women composing their seraglios. Such arguments as these are sufficient to persuade many of the rich, unprincipled, and, voluptuous, to become Mormons. 4th. Another argument constantly urged by these missionaries, is the bloody persecutions which have been endured by the Mormons in the States of Missouri and Illinois. This excites the sympathy of people not acquainted" with the circumstances. But if the facts were made known, all would discover that the Mor- mons have far less right to complain of persecution, than have the inmates of our penitentiaries. Instead of being persecuted, they have not as yet received at the hands of the people a tenth part of their just and legal deserts. 5th. Another means of building up and sustaining their Society. It is said that most Mormons, male and female, belong to a secret, mystic order, in some par- ticulars resembling Free Masonry, but without a char- ter from any regularly established Grand Lodge. Of this order, the prophet is Grand Master. They have RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 107 their signs and pass-words, by which they are known to each other. Their allegiance to this order is superior to any obligation that can be imposed upon them to support the Government of the United States, and stronger than any judicial oath imposed by any mag- istrate who is not a Mormon. MORMON WITNESSES IN COURTS OF LAW. It is difficult to convict a Mormon of sedition, or any other crime, when arraigned before the legal tribunals in the United States. Indeed, it is impossible to obtain judgment against them in such cases, as long as Mor- mon testimony is received. Such is my opinion, and I should have no confidence at all in Mormon witnesses in any supposable case, excepting in a case where one Mormon swears against another. Joe Smith was re- peatedly tried on charges of sedition, or treason, but invariably cleared by Mormon testimony. Such will always be the result, in any attempt at legal proceed- ings against that people, as long as Mormon testimony is received. The Mormons were once driven from the State of Missouri, partly by the mob, and partly by the State authorities. They then took refuge in Illinois, fixing their seat of power at ISTauvoo, on the Mississippi river. Here they flourished for a time, but soon came in col- lision with the people, who, after enduring their insults, and suffering from their depredations many years, at length expelled the Ishmaelitish crew from the State, at the point of the sword. This was done by the people, without legal authority. But these people have not been persecuted for " righteousness sake," but for 108 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. the want of righteousness. These Mormons have often been attacked by mobs. The reason of this is obvious. The people became satisfied that the civil law is abso- lutely powerless to do justice in reference to Mormons. Their seat of power is now located in Utah Terri- tory, where they have the entire control ; and it re- mains to be seen, how long it will be before they are found in opposition to the General Government. Un- less they abandon their theory of law and legislation, it will be impossible for them to remain for any great length of time at peace with the Nation. A MORMON LAW-CASE ANECDOTE. The Rev. Mr. Slater, a California emigrant, was one who stayed at Salt Lake during the Winter of 1850- '51, and afterwards published a pamphlet, in California, illustrating the workings of the Mormon system. The following anecdote is selected from his publication, and it will give the reader some idea of the manner in which justice is administered at Salt Lake. The correctness of Slater's statements were confirmed by the signatures of five hundred California emigrants. " In the course of the Winter, an emigrant bought a horse of a Mormon, for which he paid one hundred dollars. Some time after this, the horse was missing. The owner made search for it, without success, and finally came to the conclusion that the animal was lost beyond recovery. After a while, the emigrant found his horse in the possession of another emigrant. Says the first emigrant, " I would like to know by what means you have obtained possession of my horse ?" The second replied, " I bought the horse of a Mormon, RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 109 and paid one hundred dollars for it." On further in- vestigation, it was found that both these emigrants had bought the same identical horse, of the same identical Mormon, and had paid for the same an hundred dollars each! These emigrants proceeded to prosecute the Mormon who had sold the horse. The cause came up for trial before a Mormon Magistrate, there being, of course, no other in the country. It was proved, by the disinterested testimony of emigrants, under oath, that the said Mormon sold that identical horse to both these emigrants. On the side of the defendant, no witnesses were called ; but the defendant himself, who had sold the horse, made a statement before the Court, declaring, positively, that he had never owned or sold that par- ticular horse, and had never seen the animal before. The inspired Magistrate proceeded to sum up the testimony, and declare the sage judgment of the Court. It was doubtful, in his Honor's opinion, whether either of the parties had ever owned the said horse. The Court, therefore, ordered the animal to be sold, forth- with, to pay the cost. The judgment was promptly executed, and the horse was sold, at once, by the public Crier. Multitudes of similar illustrations of Mormon juris- prudence might be given. The Mormon theory and practice in relation to the rights of property, may be stated as follows : — RIGHTS OF PROPERTY. 1st. The Earth is the Lord's and the fullness thereof. 2d. The Saints shall inherit the Earth. 3d. The Mormons are the Saints of the Most High. 110 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. 4th> The Mormons are the real owners of all the prop- erty on Earth, and therefore have a perfect right to take possession of the same, whenever they have power to do so, and can do it with safety to themselves. HIGH CLAIMS OF MORMONISM. The Mormons claim to live under a theocracy, or Government of God, and hence owe no allegiance to any mere human authority. The decrees of Brigham Young, and the acts of their Legislature, are spoken of by them as revelations from God, in which there can be no error. Magistrates, and other officers, claim to be inspired, and to act under direction from on High. Hence they dispense with written law s, in general, and hold all law books in supreme contempt. They have nothing to do with reports of cases, precedents, or com- mentaries Upon the law. I have heard Brigham Young, in public, scout the very idea of a written law, or law book. PERSECUTION. If the Mormons have been persecuted, as they pre- tend, yet we would wish to have it distinctly under- stood, that they have not suffered these things for their opinions, but for their deeds of darkness and of crime. Doubtless, many well-disposed people' have joined the Mormons through ignorance of the principles upon which the Society is founded ; but can honest men and women remain with them, after they become initiated into the secrets of the Order ? CHAPTER V. Determination to leave. — Move from the City. — Warm and Hot Springs. — Dancing Prophet and Priests. — Webber River — Wild Fruit — Salt Springs. — A long Promontory. — Optical Illusion. — Huge Crickets — Strange Toads — Birds. — Wonderful Springs. — Subterranean Fires — Volcanic Crater. — River running beneath a Mountain. — Glimpse of the Lake — Warm Springs. — A Sink — Sage Bush. — Great Central r Basin Described. — Returning Mormon Train. — Insufficient Arms. — Carson's Creek — Shoshonee Indians. — Towering Monuments. — Grand Prospect. Behind the great Crowd. — Carcases, Vultures, and Wolves. — Valley of Dry Bones. — Total Abstinence. — Hot Springs — Clouds of Steam. — A Strange Carriage — Indians. — A Warning — The Humboldt. — Indian Camp — Trout. — Indian Murders — Returning Train. — Splendid Hot Spring. — A Thieving Indian — Dangerous Ground. — Jerking Beef. — The Humboldt — Indian Battle. — Traffic — A Library in the Desert. — Indian Depredations. — A Corpse found, and buried. — Hot Springs — An Emigrant killed. — Three Men killed. DETERMINATION TO LEAVE. Thursday, August 29th, 1850. — At one time, I had almost come to the conclusion to stop at Salt Lake through the Winter. The Mormons tried to discourage all emigrants who were going to the mines. They told us that Salt Lake was a far better country, in which to earn money, than California ; that the journey to the mines was horrible, beyond all description, and that it was altogether too late in the season, now, to start, and that, without doubt, we should be buried in snow on 111 112 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. the mountains. About one thousand emigrants were, by such arguments, induced to tarry in the valley until Spring. They afterwards lamented the day on which they came to that fatal determination. But these had not chanced, as yet, to obtain a distinct view of the " Mormon elephant." I have since learned from great numbers of those who stayed in the valley through the Winter, that in general they were well treated by the Mormons, until cold weather set in, rendering it impossible to go for- ward on their journey, then their conduct towards the Gentiles was totally reversed, and they afterwards found no sympathy, friendship, or justice in the proceedings of the " Saints." The Mormons then adopted a policy, in relation to the emigrants, of the most cruel and heartless character. A few of us had seen enough, already, to satisfy us that no real favors could be expected from Mormons. We were totally disgusted with a place where petty, upstart tyrants reigned without control, and rather than stay any longer, we chose to encounter the fatigues of the journey — the terrors of the Indian's seal ping-knife — and the avalanches of snow among the mountains. If we lived to get through, we were in hopes of arriving in a country which was, at least, under the protecting wing of the American Eagle. I hired my passage on board a wagon, drawn by three yoke of oxen, all in good condition. My immediate associates were two Swedes, and three Americans. MOVE FROM THE CITY. At three o'clock, afternoon, we left the Mormon city, without a tear of regret, and moved onward, taking the RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 113 northern route to California, which leads around the northern extremity of the great Salt Lake. WARM AND HOT SPRINGS. At the north side of the city we passed the Warm Spring. The water is somewhat warmer than blood- heat, is transparent, and affords a large quantity. It is a medicinal spring, of the chalybeate kind, similar to the Ilarrowgate Springs in England, or the Massena Springs, in St. Lawrence County, New York. There is a bathing-house erected here, which is owned by a Mormon Bishop. Four miles further on, we passed the Hot Spring. The temperature is near the boiling point. The spring issues from the base of a rock, which is a projection from the mountain, filling a basin, of twelve feet across, and of unknown depth. The stream from the spring is of sufficient size to carry a grist-mill, over which boiling flood we pass on a slight bridge. Our road runs along the base of the chain of mountains which forms the eastern boundary of Salt Lake Valley. The moun- tain is on our right hand, and an inclined plane be- tween us and the lake, on our left. At dark, came into a large Mormon settlement, and encamped. A Mormon here tried to persuade us to give up our present undertaking, but we were, at this time, proof against any persuasion coming from such a source. Distance, eleven miles. DANCING PROPHET, AND PRIESTS. August 30th. — Our road is fine, and perfectly level, and is seldom more than a mile distant from the moun- 15 114 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. tain. In the afternoon, we met a number of fine carriages, on board of which was the Governor, and the leaders of the Mormons ; also, a number of ladies, and the brass band. We understood that this party had been up to Webber river, for the purpose of fixing upon a site, upon which to build another city. The party, on the way up, stopped one night with a brother Mormon, by the name of Brown, where they had a ball, or dance, in the evening, to the music of the violin, the Chief Priest and Prophet leading off the head of the figure. The Divine Blessing was invoked, in a short prayer, before commencing this pious exercise. The custom of opening a ball with prayer, is general among these " Latter Day Saints." Whether this mingling of praying, fiddling, and dancing, is altogether proper, I shall not undertake to determine. At sun-set, arrived on the bank of Webber river, and encamped in a grove of poplars. In this vicinity is an extensive settlement of Mormons. Distance, twenty-nine miles. WEBBER RIVER WILD FRUIT SALT SPRINGS. August 31st. — Started early, and forded Webber river, which is now very low, and has but little resem- blance to this turbulent stream, when we crossed it on the eighth of July. At eleven o'clock, passed the last house we expect to see, for the distance of seven hun- dred miles. Before noon, we passed a great number of springs of hot salt water, from which the streams flow down upon the plain towards the lake, and expand into numerous shallow ponds, the surface of which, as seen from the RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 115 road, appear to be encrusted with salt. A white bank of the same article lies around their margins. We encamped soon after noon, on the bank of a creek of cold, fresh water, where we found a grove of English Black Haws. The trees were bent beneath the load of ripe fruit, and we gathered a bushel or two for future use. We here overtook a number of emigrant teams, and were glad to find that we were not the only trav- elers upon this lonesome road. Distance, fifteen miles. A LONG PROMONTORY. September 1st. — Sunday. — Still pursuing our course, at the base of the mountain, which rises like a wall of naked rocks on our right. Towards the northern end of the lake, I perceive that a high mountain promon- tory makes out from the shore, in a direction nearly south, almost dividing the lake into two parts. This promontory cuts off the prospect, so that we can see only the sheet of water between it and the eastern shore. This sheet varies in width from five to twenty- five miles. At the city we can see past the southern extremity of the cape, and obtain a view of the broad expanse beyond it. The lake is there of such extent, that the sun seems, at setting, to sink beneath its briny waves. OPTICAL ILLUSION. I will here state a fact that has been noticed by all persons who have traveled the overland route to Cali- fornia. In all the mountain region through which we pass, the space between us and any distant object seems diminished in a remarkable manner. An object is 116 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. really four or five times further off than you would judge, until by experience you learn to estimate dis- tances in tins singular region of the globe. The philosophic cause of this, phenomena, may be the abruptness and height of the mountains, and the thinness and transparency of the atmosphere. We have seen no wild game, except rabbits, since leaving the city. Wolves have serenaded us at night, and there are said to be brown and grisly bears in the mountains. HUGE CRICKETS — STRANGE TOADS BIRDS. Black crickets, of enormous size, are numerous in all the barren tracts ; also, a species of lizard, and toads with horns and tails decorated with bright and varie- gated colors. There are but few birds in this valley, of the same species as those found in the States. Crows and buzzards are, however, sufficiently numerous. Sage hens bear some resemblance to the prairie chick- ens of the Western States, though they are much larger, and better food when cooked. WONDERFUL SPRINGS. To-day we passed a great number of springs, that would have been regarded as great curiosities, if met with in any other country except this. Many of these springs were boiling hot, and held in solution the greatest possible amount of salt. They burst from the rocks near the base of the mountain. The water is very transparent. Several teams took on board their wagons kegs of this water, for the purpose of seasoning food, and preserving meat. In some places, we noticed RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 117 both hot and cold springs issuing from the rocks quite near together. In one instance, at least, there is a large spring of boiling salt water, that pours out of a chasm in the rock not more than two inches from one that is both cold and fresh. A sheet of rock divides the streams ; they both fall into and mingle in the same ' basin. There is a constant succession of these springs for a mile or two, and they form a strange variety, being of all temperatures, from extreme cold to boiling heat, and of every grade of saltness. SUBTERRANEAN FIRES VOLCANIC CRATER. It would seem that this whole region rests upon sub- terranean volcanoes, and at some future day a fiery deluge may fill the entire valley of Salt Lake with a sea of molten lava. This would be to the modem Sodom a fate like that which we are told in ancient times befel the cities of the plain. If such a catas- trophe should happen, and if in their flight, any Mor- mon should look behind, he might easily be turned to a pillar of salt, if he should chance to fall into certain springs along this road. At a late hour we arrived on the bank of Bear river, and encamped. Distance, twenty-five miles. RIVER RUNNING BENEATH A MOUNTAIN. September 2d. — Fowled Bear river early in the morning. This is the same terrible stream that we crossed, seventy miles before arriving at Salt Lake. Where we now cross, is twenty miles from its en- trance into the lake ; it is twenty rods wide, and four 118 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. feet deep, running swiftly ovef a bed of pebbles. We got through without accident. The Mormons say that this river runs through a sub- terranean passage for many miles, under a chain of mountains that forms the eastern boundary of the valley, and that its egress into the plain is at no great distance above this ford. A considerable share of the water of this stream, after passing the ford, sinks in the sandy plain before it reaches the lake. GLIMPSE OF THE LAKE — WARM SPRINGS. After crossing the river, our course lay for several miles across a dusty plain to the south-west, and then over a bench of high land, which is the southern ter- minus of a chain of mountains that stretch far to the north. We then came down into a fine valley, two miles wide, and turning to the north-west, ascended, gradually, seven miles. The hills on each side are of moderate elevation, smooth on the surface, and covered with green grass. The whole presents quite a pleasing landscape. We caught, for the last time, a distant glimpse of the great Salt Lake, about fifteen miles to the south. We are, therefore, passing the northern extremity of the lake. Toward evening, descended an inclined plane six miles, and encamped near a multitude of warm springs, all of which are slightly tinctured with salt. Where they rose from the ground, the^ were rather too warm for cattle to drink, but by following the streams down- ward, we found water sufficiently cool for that purpose. Distance, twenty-four miles. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 119 A SINK SAGE BUSH. September 3d. — Took a north-westerly course, wind- ing among hills of moderate height ; high, snowy mountains visible to the south-west. Three teams, only, in c6mpany with us. One great annoyance in traveling this road at this season, is the dust. The tramping of the cattle raises clouds that often conceal the whole train from sight. This dust seems to be com- posed of a soil naturally fertile, but perfectly dried by the long drouth of Summer, whilst the vast amount of travel has pulverised it, to the width of fifty feet, to the fineness of flour. Being so very light, the least touch, or gale of wind, sets masses of it in motion. We came on to Sink Creek, that runs from a large spring of good water. The stream issues from a canon in a neighboring mountain, and running a course of three miles into a beautiful little valley, the water spreads itself over the ground, and sinks, or is evapor- ated, thus irrigating two or three hundred acres of land, which, in consequence, yields a luxuriant crop of grass. Passing along, we arrived at Deep Creek, and en- camped among sage bushes, which cover all the sur- rounding prospect, except a narrow strip of bottom- land along the stream. Distance, eighteen miles. September 4th. — The sage bush is the main article for fuel, for more than a thousand miles of this journey. Being of such importance to travelers, it may merit a brief description : The leaves, when green, have a resemblance to those of the garden sage. A large number of stalks grow crowded together in a thick cluster, and are from two 120 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. to eight feet high, and some of them are six inches in diameter, tapering rapidly towards the top. It is a shrub. The grain is remarkably -winding, and the leaves have a strong aromatic smell. The wood has an agreeable odor, similar to that of beeswax, and when dry, is nearly of the same color. I have often heard it affirmed, that a decoction of the root, of two years' growth, is a real specific for land scurvy. There is an abundance of dry stalks in most places, which being- very combustible, are especially convenient in raising a sudden fire. Millions of acres in our vast interior are covered with this shrub. It would be difficult to cross the desert plains without its aid, as there is but a trifling amount of timber besides. Among these bushes, we quite commonly find, here and there, a scattering blade of grass, which seems to be of a very nutritious quality. Cattle can barely subsist upon it when they can do no better. Distance, eighteen miles. GREAT CENTRAL BASIN DESCRIBED. September 5th. — The interior of the North American Continent is, for a general rule, nothing more than a desert, with here and there an oasis. The extent of this tract must amount to more than a million of square miles, being more than one thousand miles in length and breadth. I am satisfied that the cause of this eternal barrenness is the want of rain. The soil is gen- erally of such a nature, that irrigation would render it highly productive. Much of this vast tract is destitute of springs, or streams, hence can never be irrigated, and therefore seems condemned, by a decree of Nature, to everlasting sterility. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 12^ We moved along six miles, and arrived at an oasis, at the sink of Deep Creek, where we concluded to rest through the day and recruit the teams. Here we find more than a square mile of green grass, full waist high. Deep Creek is a good-sized mill stream, until it arrives at this place, where its waters spread around and sink in the plain, near its center, which plain is a desert, about twenty miles across. Having leisure to-day, I will give a general descrip- tion of the region usually styled the "Great Basin," in which we are now traveling. The Basin is hounded by the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains on the west, and by the mountains east of Salt Lake on the east, the Oregon mountains on the north, whilst a chain of high mountains limit the Basin to the south. The whole is in somewhat of a square form, from six to eight hundred miles on each side, and nearly four thousand miles in circuit. The mountain chains by which it is entirely surrounded, are styled the "Kim of the Basin." No streams or rivers that take their rise within the Kim, can make their way out, except by evaporation, or by sinking in the deserts. The great Salt Lake itself is only an immense sink, where several rivers and numerous streams are swallowed up. Many people conceive of the Great Basin, as of an immense plain, or at least as somewhat of a level country, having the Salt Lake in the center. Salt Lake, however, is near the eastern limit of the Basin, and so far is the country from being a plain, that, on the contrary, it consists of a vast assemblage of barren hills and mountains, running in every possible direction, many of which are as lofty as the rim of the Basin itself. 16 122 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. Dispersed ' around among these mountains, are innu- merable canons, and valleys, some grassy plains, and many barren deserts of wide extent. A road has been sought out which winds around through valleys and defiles, and never ascends a mountain, where it is pos- sible to get along any other way. RETURNING MORMON TRAIN. In the course of the day, a small train of Mormons passed us on their return from California. They gave us very discouraging accounts of what we may expect on the road, and even after we get to the gold region. These Mormons had, doubtless, received orders from the head prophet at Salt Lake to discourage, as much as possible, all California emigrants. A few hours afterward, another train of returning Californians passed by. These last were not Mormons. They are direct from the mines, and their accounts are quite encouraging. They say that gold is plenty there, and food and clothing abundant. We have now eight wagons, and forty men in com- pany. The nights are cold and frosty. Distance, six miles. September 6th. — Proceeded due west over an ex- tensive plain, surrounded on all sides by high moun- tains, except a narrow opening towards the north-west. At noon, halted at Pilot Springs. They burst out of the level desert, and after a course of half a mile, sink again in the dusty plain. In the afternoon, rose several successive terraces of land, up to near the base of a mountain, where we encamped by the side of several RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 123 good springs. Two Shoshonee Indians came to our camp on horseback, armed with rifles, and stayed with us a part of the night. It is now judged necessary to guard our cattle at night, to prevent theft by the Indians. Our company is small, and the duty severe. The whole declivity of the mountain below us, and stretching far to the right and left, is studded over with clumps of cedar trees, twelve or fifteen feet high, with large round tops, giving the whole landscape the ap- pearance of an immense orchard. Among these se- questered shades, we saw a new grave of a man who died of sickness on the twenty-first of August. Distance, eighteen miles. INSUFFICIENT ARMS. September 7th. — Breakfasted on rabbit soup ; these animals being numerous, and of large size, in this quarter. Proceeding along the bench of land, through scattering groves, we soon came to an open, undulating plain, destitute of all vegetation except the everlasting sage, and greasewood bushes. A mountain, ten miles to the south, shows large bodies of snow near its summit. Crossed a fine, clear creek, twelve feet wide, and soon after descended an inclined plane eight miles, and en- camped near the sink of a very small stream, where we found a scant supply of grass. We are now only four wagons and twenty men, in company, and are poorly armed. Among us are only five rifles, and two pistols. We are in a bad condition to fight a battle with the Indians, should we have occasion to do so. Distance, eighteen miles. 124 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. CASSIUS CREEK — SHOSHONEE INDIANS. September 8th. — Started at eight o'clock. Crossed Cassius Creek, twenty feet wide, and two feet deep. Followed the stream downwards, through a lengthy de- file, among detached, conical mountains. Grass plenty growing on the bottom land, along the creek. After this, we emerged into an extensive plain, covered as usual, with sage bushes. There is a snowy mountain about twelve miles to the north. Several Shoshonee Indians visited us, for the purpose of trading and beg- ging for food. Our charity in dealing out provisions is becoming very stinted, — it begins and ends at home. We encamped at four o'clock, on the bank of Cas- sius Creek. There is a range of mountains directly in front of us, through some gorge of which, I suppose our road will lead us. Distance, fourteen miles. TOWERING MONUMENTS — GRAND PROSPECT. September 9th. — Sunday. — Leaving the creek and turning to the right, ascended an inclined plain for sev- eral miles, then two miles through a defile, or moun- tain pass, which soon descended into a valley, in which we passed the junction of the Fort Hall and Salt Lake roads. A short distance from the junction, are the noted Steeple Rocks, between two of which runs the Fort Hall road, the pass being barely sufficient to crowd a wagon through. In sight of, and near our road, are two tall and sharp pointed columns, two or three hun- dred feet in apparent height, their forms being regular and beautifully elongated cones. Here are monuments erected by the hand of Nature, rivaling in grandeur RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 125 Trajan's Pillar, or Cleopatra's Needle. Further back on the Fort Hall road, I am told is a succession of these steeples, filling a narrow valley for two orthree miles. We now ascended, for the distance of four miles, and found ourselves on the summit of a ridge of mountains. A prospect bounded only by the power of vision, now burst upon the sight. A broad valley stretching north and south, lay at our feet, and, perhaps two thousand feet below us. A long stream, called Goose Creek, winds its way through the valley, which is studded over with a countless number of hills, of beautiful and fan- tastic forms. To the west of this interminable vale is ' a vast amphitheater, of mountains, rising in successive chains behind each other, the most distant, overlooking the whole, and appearing like the faint glimpse of a cloud, with pointed summits stretching along the hori- zon. Taken, all in all, it was one of the most sublime pieces of mountain scenery I have as yet surveyed in this region of wonders. ¥e now descended five miles a fearful steep, and in many places, we had to chain all the wheels, and assemble all our force to hold the wagons back. In one place, we descended a hill for about a mile, composed wholly of a substance resembling burnt lime, or magnesia. It is as light as corkwood, and being in the road pulverised to perfect fineness by the travel, the wheels sink in it to the depth of nearly two feet, rais- ing an immense white cloud of dust. We encamp on flic banks of Goose Creek, the grass green, but short as possible. In the creek we found great numbers of the carcases of dead horses and cattle. It requires some little prac- 126 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. tice to relish a beverage in which putrescent flesh has been for months steeping. But here we have no choice. Distance, twenty miles. BEHIND THE GREAT CROWD. By tarrying so long at Salt Lake, we find ourselves far in the rear of the great emigrant crowd, this having passed along nearly two months since, and ere this time, has, for a general rule, arrived in California. At this time, there are none on the road, except here and there small, straggling parties, which, from various causes, have been hindered in their progress. Such is the fact in reference to ourselves. We seem to be al- most alone, compared with the endless throngs among which we travelled in June and July. There was no danger from Indian hostilities while a vast army con- stantly crowded the way. But the case is now quite different. "VVe are in small companies at present, and seperated by wide distances from each other. Our dis- persed situation gives the Indians every facility of an- noying us, if they have a disposition to do so. " Eternal vigilance," is our only safety. CARCASES, VULTURES AND WOLVES. At six in the morning we moved along in a southerly direction, following up the creek, occasionally as- cending hills to avoid bends in the stream. Since falling into the Fort Hall road, we find a greatly in- creased number of the carcases of dead animals. Crows, hawks, and buzzards, fare sumptously, and collect along the road in great numbers. Wolves also come in for a share, and bands of these animals around our encamp- ments, greet us with their nocturnal serenades. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 127 In the afternoon we passed a hot spring, the water not quite up to the boiling point. We encamp on the bank of the stream, upon the green and level bottom. Distance, eighteen miles. VALLEY OF DRY BONES. September 10th. — Leaving Goose Creek, we followed a branch of the same up through a canon, then descend- ed into a valley barren of all vegetation, and strewed with carcases and bones, rendering it as unpromising in appearance as that notable valley seen by the Prophet Ezekiel in his vision. We passed two springs of water, but through the reckless obstinacy of the men who own- ed the teams, we took no water on board, and we saw neither grass or water until nearly noon the next day, suffering much from thirst, and being out of bread, and having no liquid with which to mix the flour. The val- ley in which we are -traveling is nearly level, having upon the right and left hand a stupendous amphithea- ter of naked, barren mountains. Numerous graves of emigrants are here scattered along by the wayside, and the effluvia of dead animals fills the surrounding atmos- phere. Encamped at eleven o'clock at night, in the midst of a desert, without either grass or water. Distance, thirty-three miles. TOTAL ABSTINENCE. September 11th. — Started early, following up the smooth and level valley. At eleven o'clock, ascending a canon a short distance, came to grass and several springs of good water. We were glad to call a halt here and cook a breakfast, having practiced " total abstinence " 128 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. from food, as well as from drink, for thirty hours. — Snowy mountains are in sight, about fifty miles to the south. Our course is south-west. After a hearty repast, moved on five miles to a very good camping place on Coldwater Creek, a small stream. About fifteen miles further on, we can see the terminus of this long valley, in which we have been moving for several days. Much of the ground in this quarter is covered with sal- eratus and soda. Our fuel, along here, has been sage, greasewood, and wagons, that have been abandoned on the way. The greasewood shrub bears no resemblance to the sage ; the stalks are smaller, the leaves thick, resem- bling pine, having a tuft of yellow flowers at the end of each twig. Distance, sixteen miles. HOT SPRINGS CLOUDS OF STEAM. September 12th. — Started at sunrise, following along the level border of the stream. We soon came to a large cluster of boiling hot springs. There may be an hundred or more of these springs. They rise from a quagmire near the road. The morning being cold, a great cloud of steam arose from them, as from a number of steamboats. A drove of about thirty antelopes ran past us, at a distance of half a mile. Several hunters started out and attempted to head them, by taking a turn around a hill, but not succeeding in this, gave up the chase, and did not overtake the teams, until we had proceeded about twelve miles. We now left the valley, and passing over a low chain of mountains, following up one canon and down another into a small valley, having a small stream, RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 129 which we think must be Canon Creek, a tributary of the Humboldt river. Snow-covered peaks ten miles to the south. Distance, twenty miles. September 13th. — Proceeded eight miles over undu- lating barrens, covered with sage and greasewood, then descended into a level valley, abounding in grass, where we found a number of springs, or rather deep basins filled with water, having no visible outlets. Several Indians were strolling about the valley. At five in the evening, came to the bank of a creek, and encamped near the western base of one of the snowy peaks we saw in the morning. We are in doubt whether the stream is Canon Creek, or Humboldt river, near its head. Nu- merous mountains glimmering with snow are now seen in all directions, except the north. Distance, eighteen miles. A STRANGE CARRIAGE INDIANS. September 14th. — Moved down the level bottom which now appears to be three or four miles in breadth. The stream occasionally sinks in the ground, and after a mile or two again re-appears. About noon stopped on the bank of the creek, one mile from the road. At this place we saw a singular vehicle drawn by two horses. It belonged to a man from Milwaukee, who, in company with two men, were traveling with it to California. It was a cart, having tire a foot wide, and two sets of spokes to each wheel. The bed was an immense tin box, made water-tight, having a frame- work upon the inside, to strengthen it. The owner was forming a guide-book, for the use of future travelers, and 17 130 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. within the huge tin box, was a roadometer of an in- genious construction. When they started, the carriage had six wheels, all of the same construction, and was drawn by six horges, besides which, there was a curious piece of machinery fixed within the bed for the purpose of propelling this strange locomotive by hand, in case the horses should fail. Six men had agreed to take pas- sage on board this carriage, but three of them had back- ed out before starting. At this time, he had lost four of his horses, and had cut down the ponderous chariot to a cart for two horses. He had expended near two thousand dollars to get started in this way, and now seemed to be in somewhat reduced circumstances. He had evidently been the author of an unprofitable inven- tion, although a man of extensive scientific knowledge, and of great mechanical ingenuity. His horses were now low in flesh, and his cart quite too heavy a load for them to draw. Fifteen or twenty half-naked Indians visited us to day, some on foot, and others on horseback, armed with rifle's, bows and arrows. These last are constructed with great ingenuity ; the bowstrings are the twisted and dried sinews of animals. The bows are short, not exceeding three feet in length, the arrows being about two feet long, to the hind end of which, is fastened a small tuft of feathers, the point being a sharp two edged blade of iron, well polished, though some are pointed with glass. An Indian will send an arrow with such force, as to pierce a man's body completely through. The bow and arrow seems to be nearly as deadly a weapon, as the rifle or musket. The bow has one advantage in battle ; they can send a dozen arrows in the time necessary for RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 131 charging or loading a rifle once. When a band of In- dians make an attack at a suitable distance, their arrows fill the air like a storm of hail. A WARNING THE HUMBOLDT. To-day we picked up a paper near the road, signed with eight names, cautioning travelers to beware of the Indians, and stating that two of their men were shot by these Diggers, while guarding their cattle at night. Encamped near the stream, which is now thirty feet wide, and two feet deep. We are satisfied that this is none other than the river Humboldt, named after the illustrious traveler and philosopher, the Baron Hum- boldt. Distance, sixteen miles. INDIAN CAMP TROUT. September 15th. — Sunday.' — Lay by for the purpose of resting the teams, cooking, &c. The river bottom is now three or four miles in width, very level, and runs in a direction from northeast to southwest. There is no timber except willows, which fringe the brink of the stream, and as usual, sage and greasewood upon the bench of land between the bottom and the mountains to the right and left. We can also see a few dwarf cedars and pines, at a great distance in the canons that open into the valley. During the day, three of our men went out to an In- dian encampment, where they saw fifty or more of these Diggers, male and female, old and young, all be- ing nearly destitute of clothing. They had several hun- dred of the finest trout, a fish about twelve inches in length. A number of the Indians were fishing in the 132 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. river near by, with scoop-nets, and seemed to have a perfect understanding of the business, and to take the fish with great facility. These Indians seemed friendly, invited the men to go into the camp, and gave them some of their broiled trout. Their style of cooking fish was peculiar. They were thrown alive into the lire as soon as taken from the water, without any seasoning or dressing at all. They also treated the men with choke cherries. Where they found this fruit, 1 know not, as we have seen no choke cherry bushes in this region. INDIAN MURDERS RETURNING TRAIN. September 16th. — Came on eight miles and halted, after crossing a considerable creek, near its entrance in- to the Humboldt. On the road, met a crowd of Indians, and found eight or ten more at our stopping place. These Indians appeared quite impudent and ferocious. One of them attempted to take away one of our rifles without liberty. But we finally succeeded in wrench- ing it from his grasp. At this time, I believe a fight would have ensued, had the Diggers been sufficiently numerous. These Indians had brawny limbs, and ap- parently, great strength and activity. We here found a paper posted up, informing us that two men were killed by the Indians near this spot, a few days since. Their bodies were found by a party of emigrants, who came along afterwards, and by whom they were here interred. Pursuing our way, in the course of the afternooa met a wagon train of thirty or forty persons returning from California. Their report, in general, is favorable, though they seem to think we are quite too late to cross RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AFRICA. 133 the mountains without difficulty,. Distance, sixteen miles. SPLENDID HOT SPRING. September 17th. — At ten in the morning, saw nu- merous columns of what appeared like smoke, rising over the bushes, at the distance of a mile to the left, and near the river. We supposed it to be a large Indian encampment, but moving on around a bend in the stream, we perceived that the smoke was nothing but steam 'that arose from a great number of boiling hot springs. Mr. West, and myself waded the river, for the purpose of taking a look at these curiosities. The water in these springs is fresh, and beautifully transparent. Several gush from apertures in a ledge which forms the southern bank, whilst many others rise from a sandy beach near the stream. Two of the latter are splendid specimens. One is a round basin, twelve feet across, and eight feet deep, having a round open aperture at the bottom, as if bored with an auger, through which the boiling water rises to the surface with considerable force. The other is similar in ap- pearance, and about two-thirds as large. The water is so very clear, that you may see the bottom as plainly as though filled with air. Here cooking might be car- ried on upon a large scale, without any consumption of fuel, as the water is at the boiling point. Kearysun-set, crossed the river, near the place where the emigrant route, called " Hasting's Cut-Off','' forms a junction with our road. The " cut-off" runs around the south end of Salt Lake, starting from the Mormon City. Distance, eighteen miles. 134 JOURNAL OVEKLAND TO CALIFORNIA. A THIEVING INDIAN — 'DANGEROUS GROUND. September 18th. — Crossed the river four times, all within a short distance. The fords are good, and the stream low. We then traveled along the river bottom eight miles. The river then makes a great bend to the south, and passes through a tremendous canon, to avoid which we ascend a mountain eight miles, then descend- ing a canon ten miles, we again arrived on the bank of the Humboldt, at midnight, and found a large train of emigrants encamped, and were very willing to do the same, being excessively weary with this day's march. In the latter part of the night, a man on guard shot at an Indian, who was in the act of stealing a horse. The sentinel did not know that his shot produced any other effect, except adding considerably to the speed of the villainous Digger. At this encampment, I have conversed with a num- ber of men who have just come through by way of Hastings' Cut-Off, or rather " Cut-On," as they term it, and they give it as their opinion, that it is a longer route than the northern one, by more than fifty miles. They had to cross a desert, ninety miles, without grass or water. It is a level, salt desert, and lies contiguous to the great Salt Lake. It seems to be a dangerous road to travel, especially towards the western limit. If caught upon this part of it in a shower of rain, the con- sequence would be disastrous, if not fatal ; particularly as to the wagons and animals ; all would sink, to rise no more. The road runs upon a crust, of no great thickness, covering an ocean of mud, saturated with salt. A small amount of rain dissolves this crust, and leaves the traveler in a most perilous situation. Many RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 135 teams have been lost in this dreary plain. In dry weather the desert can be crossed without clanger of sinking. Let all travelers entirely avoid this route; there has been inexpressible suffering upon it the pres- ent season for want of water. Hundreds must have perished of thirst, had not some teams, after they had crossed, returned loaded with casks of water, for the relief of the famishing multitudes. Distance, thirty- three miles. JERKING BEEF. September 19th. — Moved along two miles, where we found a large company encamped, and concluded to lay by for the day, and slaughter an ox that a man be- longing to our team had picked up, about ten miles this side of the last settlements, and either belonged to a Mormon, or else had strayed from an emigrant train. The ox made excellent beef ; a part was sold at twelve cents per pound, and we jerked the remainder. These operations made a severe day's labor for all hands. We found a few teams along here that had started from Salt Lake wi£h so small a supply of provisions, that they are now mostly destitute, although the journey is scarcely half accomplished. Their only resource will be to slaughter some of the cattle belonging to the trains, and subsist on meat alone. Distance, two miles. THE HUMBOLDT — INDIAN BATTLE. September 20th. — "We move upon a very fine road, upon the south side of the river. This stream is now * about sixty feet wide, and not more than eighteen inches deep upon the ripples. In the fore part of the 136 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. season, this river was a turbulent stream, and gave the emigrants great trouble in crossing, and in it not a few were drowned. The bottom land is seldom more than two miles wide, but the valley, consisting of rolling land, is of various widths, from five to twenty miles. The banks are everywhere fringed with willows, many of which being dead and dry, are excellent fuel. Where we stop, at noon, are twelve wagons ; besides which, are two men packing upon ponies, and two others who carry on their backs their provisions and camp equipage. Men are so bent on going to the land of gold, that they travel on, whether properly prepared or not. I hear of two men now on the way to California, and who are ahead of us, one has a hand- cart, and the other a wheel-barrow. To-day, the mountains are of moderate height to the right and left, and no snow is visible in any direction. I believe this to be the first time we have entirely lost sight of snow, since about the tenth of June. We en- camp in a bend of the river, where the grass is like that of an eastern meadow, being a species of red-top, three feet high, very thick, and would produce three tons to. the acre. Near our encampment, is a new grave, at the head of which a paper is posted, from which we learn that the man who lies buried here is from Keokuk, Iowa, and was killed in a battle with the Indians, on the fifth of August. Distance, eighteen miles. TRAFFIC A LIBRARY IN THE DESERT. September 21st. — In the morning, passed an encamp- ment of thirty or forty Diggers. One of the Swedes RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 137 traveling with our team, had a small horse, low in flesh, which lie brought from Salt Lake. He swapped with one of these Indians for a fine pony, making a very good trade. Another man sold them an old, worn out jack-knife, destitute of a spring, for a silver dollar. These Diggers seem to be ignorant of the value of money, and by what means they became possessed of a dollar, is a mystery. The Indians in this quarter, go without clothes, not from necessity, but choice. They might clothe themselves without expense, if they de- sired to do so, as garments of every kind strew the ground on each side the way. The emigrants fre- quently throw away their clothing, upon finding newer and better garments. Since starting, I have in this way swapped articles of clothing several times. Faclities for the acquisition of knowledge, are be- coming ample along these barren deserts. Lying by the way-side, are a great variety of books, which their owners have thrown away to lighten their loads. From this extended library I frequently draw a volume, read and return it. All the Indians along the Humboldt, call themselves Shoshonees, but the whites call them Diggers, from the fact that they burrow under ground in the winter. INDIAN DEPREDATIONS. We every day hear of emigrants having their an- imals stolen by Indians. These crafty marauders will creep up, and shoot cattle that are so closely guarded that they cannot drive them away. The animals thus slaughtered are left behind, and the Diggers feast upon their carcases when the emigrants have gone. An ad- 18 138 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. joining train, a few mornings since, drove up their team, and found an arrow sticking in an ox to the depth of ten inches. A day or two since, a man falling back a short distance behind his train, had a bullet shot through his hat, grazing the top of his head. The ball came from a thicket of willows. Companies ought to keep near together, and guard with vigilance their camp and stock at night. Crossed the river, and encamped near the bank ; fifteen teams in sight. Ridgeway's passenger train, from St. Louis, came up with us here. This train, being a horse train, came by way of Ilasting's Cut-Off, and started from the Mormon city one day in advance of us. Distance, twenty miles. September 22d. — Sunday. — We passed this day in crossing a wide desert, destitute of all vegetation ex- cept the same monotonous sage. The river here makes a great bend to the north. At four, afternoon, came again to, the river, and encamped. Here, and for a hundred miles back, the mountains look perfectly naked, not even a bush to be seen. Distance, sixteen miles. A CORPSE FOUND AND BURD2D. September 23d. — Continued our course along the same dreary desert, the river being several miles to the right. About ten in the morning, I discovered the corpse of a man lying about six rods from the road. He had been shot tln*ough the heart with a bullet, was stripped naked, and had been some eaten by wolves. His scalp had been taken off. It appears, that after he RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 139 was shot and scalped, he was dragged about two rods, in order to remove him from the blood, preparatory to stripping off his clothes. He lay on his back, among the sage bushes, upon a hard, smooth piece of saleratus ground, and in his death struggles had with his heels gouged two holes in the ground, nearly twelve inches in depth, and with his fingers had scratched up the earth as far each way as he could reach. We judged that he had been dead about twenty-foiir hours. — Twenty rods from the body, we found a piece of a pocket-book, containing a paper, from which we learned that his name was Huttenbaugh, from St. Louis. We buried the corpse, and I wrote a statement on a slip of paper, put it in a split stick, and placed it at the head of the grave. These Indians will sometimes kill a man for the merest trifle of plunder, for a shirt, or even a fish-hook. They seem not to be aware of any difference, in a moral point of view, in the act of killing an antelope, or a human being. Stealing, also, is considered as mer- itorious, if they can do it and escape punishment. The Swede had his pony stolen during the past night. We suppose it has been taken by its former owner. Encamped where the river enters a canon. Distance, sixteen miles. HOT SPRINGS — AN EMIGRANT KILLED. September 24th. — Started before sun-rise, and at ten o'clock passed a large number of hot springs, that seem to rise at the base of a hill, two miles south of the road. We did not visit them, but they send up a heavy column of steam visible many miles. We went over a high 140 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. bench of rocky land, and then came down upon the river, and halted. While here, a white man came over to us from the opposite bank, and informed us that the body of an emigrant had been found the day before, on the north side of the Humboldt, supposed to have been killed by Indians. Lying near it was also the corpse of an Indian. The emigrant had been shot through the heart with a ball ; an arrow was still stick- ing in his skull. His bowels had been torn out, and the heart carried away. We begin to think that these Diggers are somewhat dangerous neighbors. Many of them have rifles, and all others have bows and arrows. Along here, the river runs a very serpentine course, through a valley twenty or thirty miles wide. The road proceeds in nearly a straight line, touching upon the stream only at the bends. The Humboldt seems to grow smaller as we follow it downwards. It has few or no tributaries, and the water is continually sinking, as well as being lost by evaporation. Distance, twenty miles. THREE MEN KILLED. September 25th. — In the afternoon, three men on foot overtook us, and were in a starving condition. Early on the morning of the twenty-fourth of Septem- ber, twenty or thirty Indians on horseback, armed with rifles, attacked their company, consisting of six persons, killing three of the men ; the other three, almost by a a miracle, made their escape, and overtook us, after traveling seventy miles without food, having lost all their horses, clothing and provisions. The men killed, were Holman, from Kentucky, and two young men by RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 141 the name of Robinson, from Michigan. These men had fought with desperate bravery, first discharging their rifles,, and then defending themselves with the breech of their guns, until borne down by numbers. It was a struggle for life. Distance, eighteen miles. CHAPTER VI. Beautiful Bluffs of Marl. — Alkaline Desert.— Dangerous Cut-Off. — Singu- larity of the Humboldt. — The Big Meadow — Mormon Train. — Prepar- ing to cross the Desert. — Human Bones and Graves. — Desert — De- struction of Property. — Sinks of Rivers. — Unexpected Supplies — Ragtown. — Effects of Habit. — A Splendid Camping-place — Huge Tree. — An Incident — Hard Gale. — Snow-fall on the Mountains. — Gold Miners. — Carson Valley — Mormon Train. — Thrilling Incident. — Hot Spring — Burning Mountain. — Carson Valley. — Commencement of the Ascent — Scenery. — Mountain Valley — Red Lake — Huge Trees. — Diffi- cult Road — Nevada Lake. — Ascent of the Chief Range. — Sublime Prospect. — Sight of the Promised Land. — Monumental Inscriptions. — Descent of the Mountains. — Evening Party — Vocal Music. — Splendid Timber. — Follow a dividing Ridge. — Man 'and Wife shot by Indians. — Trading Posts — Speculators — Thieves. — Arrive at Settlements. — A Volunteer Company. — Sacramento Bottom. — Arrival at the City — Poetry. — Account of the Author. BEAUTIFUL BLUFFS OF MARL. September 26th. — Proceeded down the broad valley ; the mountains to the right and left look very distant. The river becomes narrow, and dirty, and has an alka- line taste. Alkali abounds throughout the whole valley of the Humboldt, and the waters are, of course, tinc- tured with it. Encamped near the river, 'the bluffs being not more than fifty rods asunder, and they con- sist of a similar white marl to that which abouds in the 142 RETURN THROUGII CENTRAL AMERICA. 143 region of the Black Hills, east of the Rocky Mountains. This marl is mixed with gravel, and the bluffs have been water-worn into regular and beautiful forms. A few scattering cedars are visible to-day, on the sides of the distant mountains. Wagons are now our principal fuel ; these are not scarce. Distance, eighteen miles. ALKALINE DESERT. September 27th. — Rose from the bottom, and soon came upon a sandy plain, upon which we traveled until about two o'clock, afternoon, when, descending a little, our road for several miles lay across an alkaline desert, hard and smooth, and destitute of every species of vegetation. It looked some like an immense brick- yard, prepared for use, and is doubtless covered with water in the rainy season. Encamped where we found no grass. Willow browse is here the only subsistence for teams. Distance, twenty miles. A DANGEROUS CUT-OFF. September 28th. — Started at half-past six. The view around presents low mountains at a distance, whilst near at hand are numerous ranges of pyramidical hills, composed of white marl, giving the landscape a mag- nificent appearance. To-day the road makes a great curve. Myself and others, on foot, took a straight course across another alkaline desert, three or four miles in breadth. % On this tract a strong effluvia rises from the ground, having a pungent smell, like holding one's head over a chaldron of boiling salts of lye. The heat also was suffocating, so much so, that at one time we 144 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. thought it would be impossible to proceed further in this direction, but we persevered, and safe from harm issued at length from these suffocating exhalations. SINGULARITY OF THE HUMBOLDT. The Humboldt is a singular stream ; I think the longest river in the world, of so diminutive a size. Its length is three or four hundred miles, and general width about fifty feet. From here, back to where we first saw it, the quantity of water seems about the same. It rather diminishes in size as it proceeds. We met several Indians on horseback. They had bunches of angle-worms, tied up in handkerchiefs, and one of them, who could speak a little English, said they were going up the river to catch fish. Encamped in a miserable, barren place, subsisting the cattle upon willow browse. On the top of a conical hill, eighty rods distant, sat a wolf very deliberately watching our movements. Distance, fifteen miles. September 29th. — Move on through incessant clouds of dust. The mountains that bound the valley on each side, consist of naked rocks of a dark color. The soil in the valley is clay, and thoroughly dried by the sun. "We encamp on the bank of the river, and appearances indicate that we are near the sink, the stream being sub-divided into a number of channels. Distance, fifteen miles. THE BIG MEADOW MORMON TRAI3T. , September 30th. — Arrived at noon on the confines of the " Big Meadow." Here the river spreads into a very shallow lake, twenty miles in length, by near ten miles RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 145 in breadth. This sheet of water is nearly surrounded by a wide morass, covered with a kind of coarse grass and rushes. This is the fodder which the em- igrants take on board their wagons, preparatory to crossing the " Great Desert." This Big Meadow lies on both sides of the lake, and stretches along for a distance of fifteen or twenty miles. We encamped by the side of the Meadow, in company of fourteen Mormons, with eighty pack-horses and mules, on their return from Cal- ifornia to Salt Lake. The account they give of the mines, is, by no means flattering. In conversation with one of these Mormons, the leader, he expressed an opinion that the United States have not power to sub- due the Mormons. He said the Mormons could destroy an army of one hundred thousand men, before they arrived within fifty miles of the valley. I told him that five thousand men would be amply sufficient to an- nihilate all the followers of Joe Smith on the west side of the mountains, or to drive them into the Pacific Ocean. Distance, twelve miles. PREPARING TO CROSS THE DESERT. October 1st. — Lay by during the fore part of the day, for the purpose of cutting grass in the Big Meadow. Several small trains are here engaged in the same busi- ness. We tie the grass in bundles, and stow it in the wagons. Several packers are also making preparations by slinging two small bundles upon each horse or mule. We found a man here in difficult circumstances. He had two very poor horses, upon which to pack his cloth- ing and provisions, and his two youngest children. He had a little boy, who, as well as himself, trudged along 19 146 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. on foot. He had buried his wife on the road. How he got through the journey, X never knew. He needed help, and there were those present abundantly able to assist, had they possessed dispositions to do so. I was only a passenger, and could not dictate. The men with whom I hired a passage, might have assisted this man, their cattle being in good order, and scarcely any load. But on this occasion, they manifested but little sympa- thy with suffering humanity » A Mr. Coil, from Mis- souri, did finally afford some aid. He took the two youngest children on board his wagon for a time, although his load was comparatively heavy. HUMAN BONES AND GRAVES. Along here, we observed human skulls and bones scattered around the plain, the remains, no doubt, of former emigrants, many of whom have, from appear- ances, here ended their wearisome journey, and closed their mortal career. We here saw several new graves. The corpses were partly disinterred by wolves, that, in this gloomy region, riot upon the flesh of human beings. These bodies had been buried in the most slight man- ner. Distance, seven miles. DESERT — DESTRUCTION OF PROPERTY. October 2d. — Moved along the eastern shore of the Lake, and about noon, arrived at its southern terminus, where we saw the outlet, a small river twenty feet wide. This stream runs south upon the Desert six miles, where it expands into numerous small ponds, and here finally sinks in the sand. This spot is therefore the place where the waters of the Humboldt entirely disappear. We RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AIvIERICA. 147 found a considerable number at the south end of the Lake, cooking up food, tilling water casks from the Lake, and making other preparations for crossing the dreaded Desert, whose arid sands are now in plain prospect be- fore us. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we moved forward and soon entered the skirts of .the wide and desolate plain. We soon perceived that the Desert is not as we had supposed, a perfect level, but is covered witli little hil- locks of sand, upon which is a very stunted growth of greasewood bushes. We also passed within sight of some considerable hills, and even mountains, standing on the Desert. The night was just cool enough for comfort, the air perfectly clear and calm, and the heavens sparkled with peculiar brilliancy, as we trav- ersed the lonely plain, and pursued our nocturnal jour- ney. At one o'clock at night, we stopped to rest, feed, and water the team. Then moved on again, and at sunrise, found ourselves within ten or twelve miles of the southern limit of the Desert, and in sight of a strip of light green cottonwood trees, growing upon the banks of Carson river, their verdant foilage contrasting finely with the white sands of the intervening plain. We here stopped and cooked a breakfast, in which process, we used several wagons, and quite a number of pack saddle-trees. To cook our meal, property was consu- med that might have cost three hundred dollars in the States, but was of no value here. The destruction of property upon this part of the road, is beyond all com- putation. Abandoned wagons literally crowded the way for twenty miles, and dead animals are so numer- 148 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. ous, that I have counted fifty carcases within a distance of forty rods. The Desert from side to side, is strewn with goods of every name. The following articles however, are pecu- liarly abnndant ; log-chains, wagons, and wagon irons, iron bound water-casks, cooking implements, all kinds of dishes and hollow ware, cooking stoves and utensils, boots and shoes, and clothing of all kinds, even life pre- servers, trunks and boxes, tin-bakers, books, guns, pistols, gun-locks and barrels. Edged tools, planes, augers and chisels, mill and cross-cut saws, good geese feathers in heaps, or blowing over the Desert, feather beds, canvas tents, and wagon covers. SINKS OF RIVERS. We got across this Desert, which is so great a terror to emigrants, without suffering, and about three o'clock in the afternoon, arrived on the bank of Carson river at a point about twenty miles above the final sink of this stream, in the same great Desert that swallows up the Trukcy, Walker, and Humboldt rivers, and how many others, is unbeknown to me. UNEXPECTED SUPPLIES RAGTOWN. October 3d. — The Desert extends a great distance in length, and is of various widths. We Crossed it at its narrowest part, being here only forty miles wide. We are now to follow the course of Carson river upwards to its source in the Sierra Nevada mountains. The stream at this place is fifty feet wide, the depth, two or three feet. The water is pure, and altogether the best we have seen for many hundreds of miles. A cup of RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 149 good water, is a treat to one who has drank nothing but tinctures of alkali, or salt for months. This point, on the river, bears the classic name of " Ragtown." The reason of the appellation, is because there are several acres here, literally covered with rags, or clothing, either sound or tattered. The wood-work of thousands of wagons have been burnt at this place ; the irons covered the soil for a considerable space around. At Ragtown, to our great surprise, we found an abun- dant supply of flour from California. The flour was sent here by the Benevolent Society of Sacramento city. The agent, who has a large cloth tent, sells the flour for twenty-five cents per pound to those who have money, and gives twenty pounds to each one who is destitute of cash. I can assure you he was doing a heavy busi- ness, and throngs of moneyless customers constantly crowded his store. This charitable interposition, on the part of the good people of Sacramento, has prevented an immense amount of suffering. Most of the em- igrants were out of flour, or nearly so, on their arrival here. Distance, forty miles. October 4th. — If there was ever any grass here, it has been all killed by feeding and drouth, and our cat- tle still subsist on willow browse. I saw ice in iron dishes this morning. We find about one hundred em- igrants around, who, like ourselves, have just crossed the Desert. Towards night we moved on, upon the right bank of the river and encamped. Distance, five miles. 150 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. EFFECTS OF HABIT. October 5th. — " A man may get used to any thing," is an old saying, the truthof which is pretty clearly demonstated on this journey. Traveling in constant clouds of dust, dirty faces, hands, and clothes, become less and less offensive, so that as we draw towards the termination of the journey, we see for a general rule, a dirty rabble. Men have stomachs that are far from being squeamish. I have seen a man eating his lunch, and gravely sitting upon the carcass of a dead horse, and we frequently take our meals amidst the effluvia of an hundred putrescent carcases. Water is drank with a good relish, into which we know that scores of dead animals have been thrown, or have fallen. I saw three men eating a snake the other day, that one of them had dressed and cooked, not because they were in want of food, but as a rarity, or perhaps, rather by way of bravo, to show others that nothing would turn their stomachs. Graves of emigrants are numerous on this side the Desert. The usual mode of burying the dead on this route, is to dig a very shallow grave, inter the corpse without coffin, and set up a narrow piece of board by way of monument, on which a brief inscription is cut with a knife. Many, however, have only' a split stick set up, into which a paper is put, on which the inscrip- tion is written. Leaving the river, we went over a hill of consider- able elevation. No green thing visible until arriving again at the river, where we pitched our tent in quite a delightful place. Large cotton wood trees were dis- persed around the landscape, which was covered with green, but very short grass. We here came in sight of RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 151 some of the peaks of the dreaded Sierra Nevada, covered with snow. Distance, fifteen miles. A SPLENDID CAMPING-PLACE HUGE TREE. October 6th. — Sunday. — Started at three o'clock in the morning, and passed through a sand desert ten miles broad, when coming again to the river we found a trading-post, kept by two Yankees froin^'down east." Their stock was nearly expended, havmg nothing to sell, at this time, except a little flour and sugar. The price of sugar was seventy-five cents per pound. Crossing a branch of the river, over to an island, we pitched our tents in the midst of a lawn of several hundreds of acres covered with splendid grass, suf- ficiently large for mowing. Here were several small trains, consisting of nearly an hundred persons, and we all encamped under the widespreading boughs of an immense cottonwood tree, which was of such extra- ordinary proportions as to merit a brief description. The trunk was ten feet in diameter. At twelve feet from the ground, it divides into several huge branches, which rise to the height of fifty feet, sending out a great number of limbs, in a horizontal direction, to the distance of sixty feet, forming a dense shade. The weather being hot, the shadow of this tree was truly inviting. This encampment is a location of rare beauty. The island is perfectly level, and of an oval form. A strip of stately green trees upon the water-courses, en- tirely surround the place. At a short distance are chains of low hills, while far to the west are seen the frosty summits of the Sierra peeping over numerous subordinate mountains of ethereal blue. Distance, eleven miles. 152 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. October 7th. — In the afternoon, moved along the right bank, and encamped on the bottom. Distance, seven miles. AN INCIDENT HARD GALE. October 8th. — A warm morning, and very pleasant, but a black cloud hangs upon the peaks of the distant mountains, Rioting the approach of a storm. Such an appearance is not very pleasing to us, as we know that at this late season of the year, whenever it rains in the valley, there is a fall of snow on the Sierra Nevada, and it often falls there in such prodigious quantities as to overwhelm both man and beast. Whole trains have been lost in these deluges of snow. We crossed the river, arid followed up eight miles through a narrow defile, having almost perpendicular mountains upon each side of us. About nine o'clock in the morning, going on by myself, half a mile in advance of the train, thinking of home, and contrasting in my mind these interminable deserts and mountains of naked rocks, with the verdant landscapes of the Mississippi valley, a small piece of paper, driving along before the wind, stopped at my feet. I picked it up, and found written upon it the following lines of poetry, which, I think, were composed by Miss Harriet Beecher : " Yes, my native land, I love thee, All thy scenes, I love them well, Friends, connexions, happy country, Can I bid you all farewell ?" This may appear a very trifling incident, but in the then state of my mind, and the surrounding circum- cumstances, it produced a thrilling effect upon my easily excited feelings. RETURN THEOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 153 About the middle of the day we had, a violent gale of wind, which darkened the air with clouds of dust. It reminded me of what travelers relate concerning the terrible simoon winds on the great African Desert. Distance, fifteen miles. SNOW-FALL ON THE MOUNTAINS. October 9th. — Went over a rocky bench of the mountain, and then came down upon the river. A considerable quantity of new snow is seen this morning, which has fallen during the past night. The surround- ing mountains look perfectly white from their summits downwards to within a thousand feet of the level of the plain. Before we arrive at the land of gold, we must mount into a region at least four thousand feet higher than the level of the road upon which we are now trav- eling, and of course three thousand feet above the line of the new fallen snow. Passing through the Little Desert, so called, we soon entered the lower end of Carson Valley. The steep mountains on our right, are thickly covered with pines of a large size. This is the first appearance of anything like a forest that we have seen since leaving the States. On the east side of the valley, the mountains present no green thing; all is naked and dreary. GOLD MINERS. To-day we have seen several California miners pros- pecting for gold in the canons around this valley. We learn that they have discovered a little of the " dust," about three miles to the west of the road. Two men from our train, went out to the place, and returned, 20 154 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. bringing with them two or three small specks of gold, sufficiently large to be barely visible. Thus we lind ourselves already in the gold region, when we had sup- posed ourselves distant from it more than a hundred miles. But a trifling amount of gold has as yet been found in this quarter, though it is possible that rich de- posits may hereafter be discovered on the east side of the Sierra Nevada. In the afternoon, upon turning around the point of a mountain on our left, we passed a splendid spring of fresh water, a trifle warmer than blood heat. The basin is one hundred feet in length, sixteen in breadth, and the depth of water six feet. The water is very transparent. What a location for a bathing-house! Who knows, but that such an establishment, upon a grand scale, may be erected here, when the great Pacific Railway shall roll the tides of commerce and crowds of travel along this now lonely valley ? Distance, twenty-one miles. CARSON VALLEY MORMON TRAIN. October 10th. — Moved along up the valley. It is an oasis of great extent, green, romantic and beautiful, situated in the midst of vast deserts and barren moun- tains. The Carson river runs a serpentine course through the valley, the banks being everywhere fringed with a luxuriant growth of willows. The valley lies north and south, is of an oval form, and is covered with a natural growth of excellent grass. On the west side, the mountain rises to a great height, and from its base spring a great number of small creeks of pure and ex- ceedingly cold water. These rills, running swiftly over RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 155 pebbled beds, cross the road at short intervals, and meandering through the grassy plain, fall at length into the Carson river. At ten in the morning, we met a train of sixty Mor- mons, with four hundred horses and mules, on then- way to Salt Lake. These Mormons informed us, that two days previously they had killed and scalped six Digger Indians, iii revenge for thirty mules which the Indians had stolen from them. They took from the Diggers five horses, though they were not the same as those they lost, and did not know whether the Indians they had killed were those concerned in the theft, or otherwise. This was executing justice upon the same principle as practiced by the Indians. When an Indian is killed by a white man, the tribe to which he belonged never feel satisfied until the life of some white man atones for the offence. In this case, any other individual answers their purpose precisely as well as the identical murderer. At noon, we stopped at a trading-post, called the Mormon Station. It is a large log building, standing in the skirts of the pine grove which covers the moun- tain side, and at this point extends quite down to the level of the valley. These are the nut-bearing pines, full of pitch, tall, and covered with limbs to within eight or ten feet of the ground. Some of these trees were six feet in diameter. We encamped where wood, water and grass were abundant, and here found several companies of em- igrants. 156 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. THRILLING INCIDENT. This morning, a young man belonging to our train, was sent back ten miles, for the purpose of bringing up an ox, that had tired and had been left on the six mile desert. When he arrived within half a mile of the spot where the animal had been left, he perceived a crowd of Indians, apparently feasting on the carcass of the ox. The Diggers saw the young man coining, when twenty or thirty of them, mounting their ponies, gave him chase for about six miles. The young man threw away his boots, and in his stocking-feet ran for life, striking his course for the river, not daring to keep the smooth road. He crossed and re-crossed the river many times, for the purpose of gaining time, on his fe- rocious pursuers, who being all mounted, found it diffi- cult in some places to find a ford. At length, watching a favorable opportunity, and keeping for a short time under cover of the willows, until the Indians were nearly half a mile in the rear, and on the opposite side of the river, he struck across the grassy plain towards the road, and in the direction of our camp, distant at this time about four miles. The Indians soon discov- ering the object of their pursuit, with hideous yells came on with accelerated speed, rapidly gaining ground while ready to launch their winged arrows, and the pur- sued was about to sink exhausted on the ground and thus surrender his life, when, to his great joy, the lengthy Mormon train came in sight around the point of a hill but a few rods ahead. The Indians stopped short in the chase, and fled with precipitation. This circumstance was, without doubt, the means by which the fellow escaped with his scalp. Distance, ten miles. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 157 HOT SPRING — BURNING MOUNTAIN. October 11th. — Moving forward, we passed a re- markable hot spring. It gushes from the base of a mountain, between strata of horizontal rocks, in nearly a continuous thin sheet ; the water being near the boiling point, and the stream nearly a mile in breadth. This is by far the widest river of hot water that we have as yet seen. Indeed, we have not heard or read of anything like it. The quantity of water, however, is not so great as might be inferred from its extraor- dinary width, the stream being very shallow, seldom more than an inch in depth, but it flows down upon an extensive flat, where it forms a large marsh, or pond, in which there is a dense growth of the most gigantic bulrushes. The road runs just above the line from where the water flows, the mountain above it being entirely destitute of trees and vegetation of every kind, though other mountains around are covered with tim- ber. This mountain looks as though scorched and dried by internal fires, and is said occasionally to present luminous appearances in the night, thus threatening a volcanic eruption. At the same time, we can see great clouds of steam arising from hot springs on the eastern side of the valley, and distant from us fifteen or twenty miles. CARSON VALLEY. After traveling four miles, arrived at Erwin's trading post, and concluded to tarry here through the re- mainder of the day, and cut grass, preparatory to commencing the ascent of that stupendous chain of mountains, whose frowning summits, towering high in 158 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. the heavens, seem to forbid our further progress. The ascent commences with the " Big Canon," so called, said to be a terrific piece of road, from which we are now distant eight miles. We hear a report that In- dians are collecting in force about the canon, to take vengeance on the emigrants for the massacre perpe- trated by the Mormon train. We afterwards found this story to be without foundation ; but we can see in the night the fires of numerous Indian encampments at a great distance, and on the opposite side of the val- ley. This valley, though high above the level of the sea, is nevertheless valuable for agricultural purposes. I have no doubt but that crops of most kinds, except indian corn, could be raised in abundance. There is land sufficient to form a County, and streams suitable for mills, or irrigation, and above all places, this is a location where produce would sell for high prices, if emigration across the plains should continue. Distance, four miles. COMMENCEMENT OF THE ASCENT ■SCENERY. ■ October 12th. — A fine morning, and our encamp- ment is in a delightful spot, on ground somewhat elevated above the circumjacent valley. A few rods to the west of us, is the steep mountain side, covered with enormous pines, while to the east, the smooth green valley stretches far away to the foot of a chain of dry and naked mountains. In or near the center of the valley, opposite to us, the two main branches of the Carson river unite, and having their banks fringed with a dense growth of willows, the eye can trace the wind- ings of the streams through the entire length of the RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 159 valley. During the past night we were entertained with a grand musical concert by wolves. Innumerable voices seemed to have joined in the chorus. Being prepared with grass, we now moved on, two wagons only in company. In a few hours we arrived at the entrance of the big canon, and commenced the ascent which we found to be a narrow defile, so steep that we may be said to climb, rather than travel, for six miles. Down this narrow passage rushes the main branch of the Carson river, roaring loudly, and tumbling over a succession of cataracts, or foaming amidst huge granitic boulders, which in most places fill the channel of the stream. The scenery of this canon, exceeds all I have yet seen for wild magnificence. The re is only room for the road and the river running close by its side, while on either hand the mountains rise to a fearful height, their sides, in some places, presenting perpendicular cliffs, and in others, trees of pine or balsam, clinging as with a death-grasp, to crevices in the rocks. A multi- tude of the putrescent carcases of animals line the road-side, or have been thrown into the rushing stream. The poor creatures here ended their wearisome jour- ney, being unable, through weakness, to ascend tins formidable height, and were by their owners abandoned to starvation and death. Six miles of climbing, in which nameless obstacles had to be surmounted, brought us at length to a kind of summit level, near the head of the canon, which here expands to a considerable width, the ground being somewhat level, with clumps of stunt- ed shrubbery dispersed around. We here pitched our tent, a little after dark. We have now taken the first 160 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. degree in crossing these celebrated mountains, and the terrific grandeur of the scenery thus far, can only be conceived, for it cannot be described. Here a little new snow lay on the ground, and the wind was cold and piercing. Distance, fourteen miles. MOUNTAIN VALLEY RED LAKE HUGE TREES. October 13th. — Sunday. — Moved forward at an early hour ; the road level for two miles, when we suddenly and unexpectedly emerged from the canon into a mountain valley. It lies north and south, is ten miles long, and two in breadth. The road here turns to the left, or south, and passes through the valley length- wise. The ground has a lively green hue, being cover- ed with short grass, whilst around the landscape are dispersed clumps of pine and aspen trees, interspersed with many large heaps of loose granitic rocks. Through this lonely vale, the Carson river winds its way, but is here diminished to the size of a small brook, with gentle current, rolling over beds of pebbles. I think this valley must be six or seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, as snow lies through the year at a little higher elevation. Innumerable summits of rough, jagged, and snow-capped mountains, surround the val- ley on all sides. "We emerged from it at the southern terminus, and passed over a chain of high hills, covered with the most stupendous trees, consisting of pine, cedar and balsam fir. We soon descend into another val- ley, where there is a sheet of water called Red Lake. It is narrow, and between one and two miles in length. It lies east and west. The western terminus stretches to the foot of the dividing ridge of the Sierra Nevada, RETURfl THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 161 from which the waters diverge to the east and west. — This dividing ridge is the most difficult to surmount of the two principal chains of these mountains, though the western ridge is somewhat higher. These main ridges run parallel to each other, and frequently in close ap- proximation. There is tall grass around the border of the lake. I here took the measurement of a pine tree. It was seven feet in diameter, the trunk was round and tall, and fifty feet or thereabouts without branches. DIFFICULT ROAD — NEVADA LAKE. After refreshing ourselves and team at the lake, we clambered up an ascent about two miles, which is the most dreaded by emigrants of any upon the entire land route to California. The road is crooked, taking nu- merous short turns around the roots of huge trees, and in some places, is paved over with large roundish rocks. Up, and over these, the cattle are compelled to climb, sometimes slipping down, and in other instances, creep- ing upwards upon their knees. Fortunately, we had no load at this time, and we found an empty wagon quite sufficient for three yoke of oxen to draw. In some parts of this ascent, we keep upon the summit of a narrow ridge, on either side of which is a deep canon, into which, by a little mismanagement, the team and carriage might easily be hurled to instant destruction. After gaining this giddy height, we found a little level ground, and then descended into another valley lying between the two main chains of these mountains. Here is a lake of considerable extent, irregular in form, and sprinkled with numerous little islands, green and overgrown with moss. I know of no name for this 21 162 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. sheet of water. I will therefore venture to christen it Nevada Lake. We encamped in the skirts of an ancient forest at the south end of the lake, and under the shelter of immense rocks of granite. The cold was benumbing, but fuel being plenty, we rolled together a pile of dry pine logs and setting it on tire, the name soon illuminated a portion of the deep, dark, and gloomy vale. Over head, the heavens were without a cloud, and the stars gleamed with the brilliancy of a Winter's night. Around us on all sides, dark moun- tains towered high, and being covered with the sable pall of night, presented a striking picture of gloomy magnificence. No place could be better fitted for con- templation on the sublime and wonderful works of Na- ture. We are naturally led to inquire what periods of duration have elapsed since these stupendous towers were upheaved in solemn pomp from the abysses of the deep ? What crashing of a thousand thunders resound- ed over an uninhabited world, when by the mighty force of internal fires, the globe's solid crust was broken up ? How long will these massive piles withstand the war of elements, before they shall be decomposed and sunk to level plains ? While this lengthy process moves slowly but surely onward, what revolutions among na- tions will take place, and what moral and intellectual changes in reference to the human race ? We may raise a thousand such queries, but no voice returns an answer. All is silent as the mute rocks or still waters now sleeping in this valley. The two principal ranges of these mountains at this point, approximate each other, and are but two or three miles asunder. Distance, fifteen miles. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 163 ASCENT OF THE CHIEF RANGE. October 14th. — Took an early breakfast, and moved forward, leaving the lake at its south-western extremity, and soon commenced the ascent of the western ridge, the loftiest chain in all these ranges of mountains. We regarded it as the last and most formidable barrier we have to surmount, in arriving at the half fabulous region of untold wealth. We thought, that if we could once get to the height of this last summit, we should then be comparatively safe from those dreaded storms of snow, which in these elevated regions sometimes de- scend sudden as an avalanche, overwhelming whole caravans and dooming them to certain destruction. Once at the frozen summit, and within sight of the sunny plains beyond it, we might by some means make our way down the declivity, even should we find it buried in depths of snow. The last ascent is six miles ; the first three, through dense forests of ever-green timber, the remaining three miles, the mountain is mostly bare, except here and there a scattering tree. The last two miles of the ascent is terrific, being excessively steep, and a part of the way so sideling, that it was necessary for several men to brace themselves against a wagon to prevent its upsetting and rolling down the side of the mountain. By doubling teams, and assisting with manual strength, we succeeded in gaining the top of this dreaded eminence by two o'clock in the afternoon. The sun shone clear and bright, but the wind raged with violence, and the cold was so intense that we all w T ent to the wagons and put on our great coats and woolen mittens. We were now in, or above the region of the clouds, some of which were sailing swiftly past 104 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. on a level with ourselves, and others far below us. We were happily disappointed in finding but little snow in the road, though at a short distance on either hand, we perceive it in dense masses, and it appears to have lain here during the lapse of ages. Near the top of the ridge, there is an immense embankment of snow stretch- ing along in a horizontal line, which it would seem was originally blown from, or over the summit of the moun- tain. In other places this ancient snow fills the hollows up to the common surface of the ground, and runs in irregular lines down the sides of the declivity. This old snow is nearly as hard as ice, and presents a faint resem- blance to the glaciers upon the Alps in Switzerland. .Near the summit of the ridge there is what appears to be the crater of an extinguished volcano. It is an im- mense hole, perpendicular on the sides, like a well, about four hundred yards in diameter, and we judged more than a thousand feet in depth. There is a pond of water at the bottom, and an outlet on the lower side. Arriving near the top of the ridge, the road turns to the south, and runs along the summit about two miles, but our view towards the west is obstructed as yet by a ridge of granite and trappean rock, that rises like a wall on our right to the height of nearly two hundred feet. The appearance of this wall, is as though the granite had been broken through by some tremendous force from below, while the dark masses of rock were pro- truded upward through the opening where it now appears as a crown-work to the wall. SUBLIME PROSPECT. Looking back to the east, the prospect is one of gloomy grandeur. A valley of immense depth em- RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 165 bosoming a lake, and otherwise covered with dense forests of dark evergreens, lies under our feet, while beyond it, many frosty peaks are seen mingling with the clouds and pinnacles of naked rocks projecting from a basement of snow. We now come to a break in the wall like a gate-way ; through this we pass, and in an instant the New World of California bursts at once upon our impatient sight. We were now nine thousand and three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and nearly two thousand feet higher than the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains. Upon this stupendous observatory, I halted a short time to take a general view of the boundless panorama spread out before me. The view is so vast and of such surpassing grandeur, that the mind is bewildered and lost amidst the bound- less expanse, like attempting to grasp eternity or infinite space by the aid of our feeble powers. I was utterly unable at first, to arrange the outlines of this immense future in anything like a systematic order. At length, fixing my steady gaze towards the west, the sight being assisted by a small telescope, a waving line of light blue at two hundred miles distance is seen to run along the verge of the western horizon. This is the coast range of mountains near the Pacific Ocean. This limits the view in that direction. The intermediate space consists of the great valley of the Sacramento and Joachin river embosoming the Bay of San Francisco which penetrates far into the plain, sending out numer- ous arms in all directions. North and south, the view is bounded only by the power of vision. I believe the extent of country visible from this point to be at least two hundred miles in breadth, by five hundred in 166 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. length. Immediately in front, we have a more distinct view of the great western slope of the Sierra Nevada. This slope consists of a great number of ridges or chains of mountains, running a westerly course in zigzag lines, starting from the main range on which we now stand, and gradually diminishing in height, until they termin- ate at the eastern limit of the broad plain of the Sacramento. Between every two of these long ridges flows some river or one of its branches, which, travers- ing the mountains and crossing the plain, falls at length into the Sacramento river. Such are the grand out- lines of the landscape, which, however, is vastly too extensive to enable us to take a view of objects more minute. The reader is not to understand that we cross the mountain at any of its highest points ; far from it. The surveyors sought the lowest pass that could be found. On either side of the pass, at no great distance, are summits several thousands of feet higher than the road on which we travel. These are destitute of vegetation , and apparently smoothed over with vast depths of ever- lasting snow of intense whiteness, being at an altitude to which dust never rises. The whole western declivity of the mountain below us, appears like one vast and unbroken forest. SIGHT OF THE PROMISED LAND. We now feel safe, being conscious that the dangers most feared are now past, and the chief obstacles to be met with in this weary pilgrimage are surmounted, and the realms of civilization are now within the circle of vision. Standing upon this towering eminence, the RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 167 way-worn traveler experiences sensations similar to those felt by Moses of old, when he climbed to the top of Mount Pisgah, and for the first time caught a distant glimpse of the Promised Land. MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS. I do not think it possible to drive teams over heights more difficult than those we have ascended, being twice the height of the Alleghanies, and as high as the White and Green Mountains piled upon each other, and I think higher than any of the passes of the Alps into Italy. Hannibal and Napoleon gained deathless re- nown by crossing the Alps, which might not have been a more hazardous undertaking than crossing the Sierra Nevada, yet I am suspicious that thousands have crossed these tremendous heights the present year, who will not acquire immortal honor by the exploit. One thing, however, is certain ; that is, if the names of the Cali- fornia emigrants should not chance to be inscribed in the records of fame, you may yet see countless thousands of their names, very legibly written with chalk, wagon- grease, or paint, upon the everlasting rocks that com- pose the towering ranges of these mountains. Volumes might be filled with these elevated names. Here are monuments that will stand until the " rocks fall to dust," though the inscriptions upon them will soon fade away. DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAINS. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we commenced the western descent, which we found to be less abrupt, and not so rocky as the ascent on the eastern side. We descended, by a succession of sharp pitches, and in 168 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. some places find deep, loose sand, instead of naked rocks. Soon after leaving tlie summit, we observed another deep hole, with a pond also, at the bottom. It is, doubtless, the crater of a volcano now extinct, but the time has been, when from these deep caverns rivers of lire have been disgorged. This last is as deep as that on the eastern declivity, but its sides are not quite perpendicular. I think it is but a mile or two, in a straight horizontal line from the bottom of one of these craters to the other. It would be possible to tunnel the mountain at this place for a railroad, and thus save some thousands of feet elevation. Five miles of desert brought us down to a bench of the mountains, called Rock Valley, in which we encamped, the weather cold and wind violent, with squalls of snow. "We here saw dark masses of clouds below us, and rolling up through the gorges of the mountains. "Wood was abundant, and we built several roaring fires, and got through a stormy night without much suffering. Distance, twelve miles. EVENING PARTY VOCAL MUSIC. October 15th. — We perceive that the climate on the western side of the mountains is more mild. Have seen no old snow lying very near us since we descended from the summit. This difference is owing to the warm gales from the Pacific. The Sierra Nevada presents an effectual barrier against the chilling blasts from the east, south-east, and north-east. The cold storms from the north Atlantic never reach the Sacramento valley. The snow that fell during the past night is mostly gone this morning, although the weather is still damp and RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 169 chilly. We have concluded to tarry here through the day, having found some indifferent pasturage down in a deep valley two or three miles from the road; The teams need refreshment, after the two past days of fatigue and privation. Several small companies, be- sides our own, have also stopped here, and we all pitch our tents beneath the interwoven boughs of twelve ma- jestic pines, standing remarkably close together. "We rolled together several piles of dry pine and cedar logs, whose brilliant blaze illumined the dark forest for a considerable space around. The whole party, standing or seated around these crackling fires, enjoyed a social evening, with minds more free from care than has been their wont for months before. We were now in Califor- nia ; what more could we ask? Alas, how little did some of us realize at that time the troubles still in reserve for us, in this new world, upon the confines of which we were now standing. Among the persons composing the company, were several intelligent and apparently respectable men. There was a lawyer from St. Louis, and a physician from Tennessee. These gentlemen re- lated some incidents of their journey, one of which I will repeat : When coming down the Humboldt, they traveled in a train consisting wholly of ox-teams, conducted by one hundred men, all of whom were well armed. Not- withstanding their force was so respectable, they were much annoyed by a band of four hundred Indians, all of whom were mounted. The Indians were not willing to come to a close engagement with the men of the train, who marched out in a body at three different times to provoke them to stand and fight a battle. The 22 170 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. Indians would stand their ground until the white men approached within half a mile, exchanging long shots with rifles, producing but little effect, when they would all mount their ponies and gallop away to a station at a greater distance. Thus, for three days and nights, these Indians kept the train in a constant state of alarm, expecting every moment to hear the war-whoop sound- ed, and to find themselves attacked by these savage hordes on every side. The Indians were doubtless stimulated to make these hostile demonstrations, by a desire of possessing themselves of the rich booty of an hundred yoke of oxen, and other valuable property. But finding the whites so well prepared, they concluded to decamp, for although they are fond of plunder, yet to obtain it they do not choose to run much risk of losing their lives. They seem to fear death, as do other human beings. In this evening's party were a number of good sing- ers. We joined our voices in full concert, and sung several of the old tunes dear to memory, such as ' Old Hundred,' 'Windham,' 'Wells,' and 'Coronation,' and made the mountains echo with the strains of sacred song. SPLENDID TIMBER. October 16th. — Broke up our encampment, and moved along down the declivity, generally descending, but occasionally rising a considerable hill. We can perceive that the climate is becoming warmer at almost every step. A general view, taken .from the tops of hills over which we pass, presents an irregular assem- blage of hills and mountains around us, in endless va- riety as to form and elevation. In many of the deep RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 171 dells on each side of our course, we observe small lakes of fresh water. The forest becomes more dense as we proceed. Du- ring the day, I took the measurement of pines eight feet in diameter, and mountain cedars of nearly the same size. I saw none that had fallen down, and there- fore did not ascertain the height to which this timber grows, but judged that some trees were above two hundred feet high. We encamp below Leak Springs, having descended from a considerable height during the day. The air is soft and balmy, and feels as though we are approaching the season of Summer. Distance, twenty-five miles. FOLLOW A DIVIDING RIDGE. October 17th. — 'Continue our course, descending the mountain. We occasionally catch a glimpse of the Sa- cramento valley. It appears broad and perfectly level, but is dim in the distance, and we can see -no object distinctly. We find that we are traveling on the sum- mit of a dividing ridge between two rivers, viz : the Cossumne and the South Fork of the American. Some small oaks were seen to day, interspersed among the evergreen timber. Encamped in the midst of a dense body of trees, the largest and tallest we have ever beheld. Distance, fifteen miles. MAN AND WIFE SHOT BY THE INDIANS. October 18th. — A very warm morning, and the forest is vocal with the wild melody of birds, like Spring- time in the northern States, but our elevation is still several thousand feet above the level of the valley. ' 172 JOPRNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. In the vioinity of this encampment, we had an oppor- tunity of taking the measurement of many trees, some of which were lying on the ground. There were pine trees, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, and tower- ing to the height of three hundred feet or more. These facts we should have been loth to believe without ocular proof. By the side of such a grove, the stateliest pine forests in the eastern States would appear like humble shrubbery. These gigantic trees frequently stand near together. I counted thirty trees, pine and cedar, on fifty square rods of ground, ranging in size from two to ten feet, diameter. I afterwards saw in a valley not far distant, a large tract of land more thickly timbered still. To-day we noticed rocks of slate and quartz, and not so great an amount of granite, though there are vast masses of conglomerate rocks, that seem to have had a volcanic origin. We stopped for the night at a trading post, where we found a young couple of Tennesseeans, a man and his wife. They had been wounded the day before, with arrows shot by two Indians, two miles east of this place. When attacked, they were traveling on foot and by themselves, and driving before them their two oxen, upon which their goods and provisions were packed. They had left their wagon on the desert. Unfortunately, the man had no fire-arms at the time, but kept the Indians in check by hurling at his assailants pebbles picked up from the road. He says he dodged more than twenty arrows, till at length, one struck him in the shoulder blade, dis- abling his left arm. At this time he had retreated, facing the enemy, until he found himself and wife at the summit of a long and very steep descent. Here RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 173 they both turned and fled with winged speed down the hill, the enemy gave up the pursuit, and the fugitives arrived at this post, leaving their oxen behind. This attack of the Indians seems to have been made through mere wantonness or malignity, and not for plunder, as the oxen were soon afterwards discovered in the woods with all the baggage safe. The woman was severely wounded through the breasts, at the commencement of the attack. Her husband did not notice it, having at the time his attention drawn another way, and she, although but eighteen years of age, was so much of a heroine, that she made no complaint, and her partner knew not of the wound, until both had gained a place of safety. Neither would she leave her husband during the fight, although she was urged by him to do so, and by that means save her own life. Distance, fifteen miles. TRADING POSTS SPECULATORS THIEVES. • October 19th. — As we move along, we are more and more astonished at the size and height of the trees, and aggregate quantity of timber. A gentleman who was present, observed that were these forests situated on the east side of the Mississippi, they would be worth more money than all the gold mines of California. After five miles progress, concluded to stop and turn out the team to graze ; we are now proceeding quite leisurely. We stop at a trading post. These establishments, called " trading posts," have been immensely numerous along the roads between the mines and the desert ; but as the travel has now mostly ceased, the posts are in general broken up and abandoned. They are mere temporary 174 JOUKNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. stores, set up by speculators -from California, for the purpose of making extravagant gains, by trading with the emigrants just arrived from the Plains, and entirely ignorant *of the price at which various kinds of property sells in this country. These unscrupulous traders would give twenty, and not unfrequently ten pounds of flour, for a horse, worth in California, one hundred dollars. In this way, these crafty traders have " made their piles " by taking advantage of the ignorance or the dis- tress of the starving emigrants. Not a few of these traders were thieves as well as speculators, and by them, vast numbers of cattle and horses have been driven off a distance from the road, leaving their owners to think they had strayed, or had been stolen by the Indians. The Indians are thieves, but they do business upon a small scale when compared with the operations of these genteel, wholesale thieves and robbers. It seems to be a hard case for an emigrant, who having lost and suffer- ed so much, and upon arriving near his destination, is robbed of the remainder of his worldly store by the hands of his own countrymen. Such, however, have happened in a thousand instances, and those who boast of civilization and Christianity, have proved themselves a more treacherous and heartless race, than the untu. tored hordes that roam the desert. Some of these reckless plunderers are professional men, and pass for gentlemen. I saw one of these high characters on my way down the mountain, who had with him a drove of an hundred head of cattle and horses, nearly all of which were stolen from the emigrants. To-day, a gentleman showed me a variety of speci- mens of gold dust, in all, amounting in value to more RKTURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 175 than a thousand dollars. There were lumps of pure gold, worth from five to thirty dollars each. This, to me, was a curiosity, being the first I had ever seen. A mulatto man employed at this post, being out to- day guarding horses, was shot by an Indian and wound- ed, the ball passing through his arm, and lodging in a powder-flask which was slung by his side. Distance, five miles. October 20th. — "We traveled only six miles this day, and saw nothing to admire, except the lofty forests of pine and cedar, covering all the surrounding landscape. We find ourselves in a climate somewhat too warm for comfort. Instead of the overcoats and mittens worn a few days ago, we have now divested ourselves of all our clothing except pantaloons and shirts. Distance, six miles. ARRIVE AT SETTLEMENTS. October 21st. — Started in the morning and traveled till midnight, and arrived on the borders of civilization. It was a small mining town called Ringgold, on "Weaver Creek, a branch of the South Fork of the American riv- er. Weaverville lies adjoining, and both villages con- stitute a kind of irregular street, about one mile in length, running along the bottom of a deep ravine, and close to the brink of the stream. Hangtown, a much larger place, is only three miles distant. It received this euphonious and elegant name in consequence of the number of criminals that have here received their deserts by the summary process of Lynch law. • Distance, twenty -five miles. 176 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA.. ■ A VOLUNTEER COMPANY. October 22d. — "We learn that some of the miners in this place and the vicinity, are making fortunes, but a large majority are doing but little or nothing. We hear that such a state of affairs is by no means singular in California. The next evening after we arrived at Ringgold, there was a great excitement in the place in consequence of the murder of a white man by an In- dian. The most exaggerated reports were spread con- cerning the force and warlike movements of the natives. A mass meeting was called in the evening, a company of volunteers raised on the spot, which started early the next morning with threatenings of death against any Indian that might chance to fall in their way. After wearying themselves by climbing over rocks, hills, and mountains, they returned late in the night, not having succeeded in seeing or hearing of a solitary Indian. As they entered the town, they raised a general war- whoop, and all discharged their rifles in a running fire. The villagers starting from sleep, concluded that the town was attacked by the savages, and began to rally for battle, when happily, they discovered that this noc- turnal enemy was nothing but the returning volunteers. The farce ended in a laugh, prolonged by means of repeated potations of brandy. We are now fairly in the mining country, and I ob- serve that the prevailing rocks are takore, slate, and quartz. This last, is considered by the miners as the original source of all the gold deposits. The whole region around here is full of little towns that have started into existence within a few months. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 177 Some of these places contain thousands of men, and perhaps a dozen women. Cooking seems to be one of the most lucrative employments, and in this business an active woman can earn two hundred dollars per month. The principal part of the cooking, however, as well as washing, is performed by men. Fifty cents is here the price for washing a shirt. A new one costs but one dollar. Mind's therefore find it the best economy to wear a shirt three or four weeks, then throw it away and buy a new one. The country is strewn with shirts, many of which are whole but stiffened with dirt. The houses in the towns are sometimes constructed with .logs, but generally are a kind of frame, the posts set in the ground and covered with split boards or long shin- gles. The earth is commonly the only floor. Cloth tents are the principal abodes of miners, and with these airy habitations, the suburbs of all mining towns are crowded. Great numbers are destitute of tents, and sleep in the open air, or beneath the branches of the trees. In this mild climate, where no dew ever falls, sleeping in the open air is by no means detrimental to health. In all the mountain tracts upon the western slope, the soap plant is one of the most common veget- ables. It is a natural production, and is said to be an excellent substitute for soap, and is used by the Mex- icans for that purpose. They make use of the root, which is of the bulbous kind, in shape much like an onion, weighing one or two pounds, and is cased on the outside with a thick covering resembling coarse brown hair. Distance, thirty miles. 23 178 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. SACRAMENTO BOTTOM. October 23d. — Having arrived within sixty miles of Sacramento city, and as the whole distance has now be- come a settled country, with towns and public houses at short intervals, I shall add but a few words to this chapter. We moved along down the declivity, passing through the towns of " Diamond Springs," and " Mud Springs," the hills constantly diminishing in height, the trees growing shorter and more scattering, and before the close of this day's travel, evergreen timber entirely disappeared, and oak alone prevailed. Late in the evening, we came down the last hill, and found our- selves on the level border of the Sacramento bottom,, amidst weeds and grass, dry as tinder, and scattering oaks, having short but large trunks with wide branch- ing tops and luxuriant foliage. Here we encamped and turned out the teams to graze for a few days. The grass, although perfectly dry, is nevertheless nutritious, as neither rain or dew has ever fallen upon it since it has been in its present state. Distance, twenty-five miles. „ ARRIVAL AT THE CITY POETRY. October 27th, 1850. — Having rested, washed up cloth- ing, &c, I left my baggage to be brought on by the teams, and wended my way on foot and alone towards the city, being anxious to get to that place, expecting to find letters from home. I was surprised at the vast amount of travel in this new country. There seemed to be constant crowds of teams, and men on horseback and on foot going both ways, traveling with eager pace amidst incessant and suffocating clouds of dust. At RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 179 length, casting my eyes over the dusty plain, I saw the long-sought city at the distance of two miles. Quick- ening my pace, I was soon in Sacremento, but faint and weary with this march beneath the powerful beams of a cloudless sun, and summer-like atmosphere of the valley. I endeavored to console myself with the reflection, that I had now reached the goal, and ulti- mate limit of this long and hazardous pilgrimage to Mammon's temple ; and while death had closed the career of thousands who had fallen by the way, my life had been spared. I had abundant cause of gratitude to the Giver of all good. I had surveyed Nature's grandest works, and had contemplated scenery, where, undisturbed by man, earth still reposes in all her prim- itive loveliness and grandeur. I never before so fully realized the beauty of the following lines from Thomp- sons Seasons. Should fate command me to the farthest verge Of the green earth, to distant barbarous climes, Rivers unknown to song; where first the sun Gilds Indian mountains, or his setting beam Flames on th' Atlantic isles ; 'tis nought to me : Since God is ever present, ever felt, In the void waste as in the city full ; And where He vital breathes there must be joy. When e'en at last the solemn hour shall come, And wing my mystic flight to future worlds, I cheerful will obey ; there, with new powers, Will rising wonders sing : I cannot go Where Universal Love not smiles around, Sustaining all yon orbs, and all their suns ; From seeming Evil still educing Good, And better thence again, and better still, In infinite progression. But I lose Myself in Him, in Light Ineffable ! Come then, expressive Silence, muse His praise. Distance, twenty-five miles. Distance from Illinois to Sacremento city, two thou- sand one hundred and seventy-two miles. 180 JOUENAL OVEBLAND TO CALIFOENIA. ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOE. Before I proceed with my next chapter, I will say a word in reference to myself. Having now resided in California above two years, and having visited the prin- cipal cities and towns, and traveled extensively through the mining region, I feel somewhat prepared to present the reader with a condensed view of the whole scene. My descriptions of scenery, and relation of facts, will be mostly confined to what has fallen under my own observation. I supported myself in traveling, by giving popular lectures on scientific subjects. At times, I attempted to labor at mining, but was obliged to desist on account of my health. During my residence in the country, I was confined for a long time by sickness, which I do not attribute to the climate, but to fatigue and expo- sure. One design I had in undertaking this hazardous enterprise, was to gain a competency of this world's goods. In this I was not alone. Neither was I singu- lar in failing to accomplish this object. Another object, and that not the least, which I had in view, has been attained. I desired to explore the interior of North America. This I have done, to a high degree of satisfaction. Thus much I have said in refer- ence to myself, a subject to which I may have no fur- ther occasion to advert. CHAPTER VII. Dimensions and Boundaries. — Inhabitants. — Chinese — French. — Kanakas. — Americans. — Animals. — Birds. — Reptiles and Insects. — Fishes. — Spanish Cattle and Horses. — Productions. — Trees, Shrubs, and Grasses. — Flowers. — Rivers and Lakes. — Mountains. — Cities and Towns. — Cli- mate. — Mystery Explained. — Height of the Thermometer. — General Remark. — Central Valley and the Mines. — Western Slope. — Hilly Zone. — Timbered Zone. — Frigid Zone. — Where the Gold is found. — Amount of Labor — Fluming Rivers. — Canals to work Dry Diggings. — Modes of Collecting the Gold. — Size of Lumps — Gold Region. — Mines Inex- haustible. — Product of Labor — Lottery. DIMENSIONS AND BOUNDARIES. The State of California, is in length, six hundred miles ; breadth, two hundred and fifty miles. The number of square miles, is one hundred and fifty thou- sand, or one hundred millions of acres. The lands have been classified as follows, by the State Geologist : First rate lands, requiring no irrigation, thirty mil- lions of acres. SeconcTrate lands, very productive, but require irrigation, thirty millions of acres. Mountains, forests, deserts, and drowned lands, fifty millions of acres. According to this statement, it will be seen that the State is capable of sustaining from its own soil a great population. If the fertile lands alone were as well im- proved, and as densely populated as England, it would 181 182 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. support at least twenty-five millions of people' — a con- summation that may be attained before the close of another century. The number of inhabitants at present, including Indians, may amount to five hundred thousand, nearly the whole of whom, except the natives, have arrived since 1848. ' The State has Oregon on the north, Utah Territory on the east, Southern California on the south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The, line dividing this State from Oregon, is the forty-second parallel of north latitude. INHABITANTS. No country contains so heterogeneous an assemblage of human beings. Here are people from all the na- tions of Europe and America, to which are added great numbers of Kanakas, Malays, Australians and Chinese. Nearly every language on earth is spoken, and the confusion of tongues is like that which is said to have been witnessed at the building of Babel. The dress is as diversified as the language. THE CHINESE. Of foreigners, the Chinese are the most numerous class, and are thought to amount to forty thousand. They are temperate, industrious and peaceable, attend- ing to their own business without meddling with that of others. Their personal appearance would seem to denote some lack of both physical and mental energy. The dress they wear, and their long queues, give them a feminine appearance, resembling women rather than men. Their hats are made of stiff splints of bamboo, RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 183 and are as unpliable as a basket made of oak. They have broad, round brims, with conical crowns, and are a heavy, clumsy article, but durable as the life of the wearer. Their shoes are equally clumsy. Their pan- taloons are extremely wide, resembling petticoats, and a short garment, something like a loose gown, com- pletes their external costume. I have frequently met on the road crowds of these people, consisting of hun- dreds, each one having his mining tools, clothing and provisions, suspended at each end of a pole, and bal- anced across the shoulder. Although they appear so effeminate, yet the enormous loads they carry denotes great bodily strength. With these burdens they will climb the steep mountains, seldom setting down their load to rest. They have been from infancy inured to incessant toil. The complexion of the Chinese men is, with some exceptions, about the same as the Malays, Kanakas, and American Indians. Indeed, the Diggers in California regard them as intruders, and style them " China Indians," a tribe which they think have no business here. The Chinese are good mechanics, and it is said nearly all can read and write their own lan- guage, and are expert in keeping accounts. In trading and doing business, they are remarkably precise, and rarely make a mistake. Uuprincipled men, both Europeans and Americans, take advantage of the peaceable dispositions of the Chinese, and if they hap- pen to find them in good diggings, will drive them away, and take possession of their claims. . A dozen armed white men will drive a thousand of these Celes- tials, as easily as they would a flock of timorous sheep. Phrenologically speaking, they lack firmness, destruc- 184 JOURNAL OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA. tiveness, and combativeness. If there were no worse men in California than these Celestials, there would be less trouble, and less call for the services of Judge Lynch. The Chinamen seem to be satisfied with small gains, and hence generally work in diggings that white men have condemned and abandoned ; but should these places happen to prove better than was anticipated, they are commonly soon expelled by the more unscru- pulous whites. In the cities, these people are found in great numbers, sometimes occupying whole streets. Some have stores of Asiatic goods. Many are em- ployed as cooks, in which business they excel, others keep restaurants, laundries, or carry on the fishing business, &c. I have never seen a Chinaman so far reduced as to ask charity. There are a few Chinese women here, but they are abandoned characters. No Chinaman has as yet removed his family to this country. It is said that some of these people here will eat rats, and of these there is an abundant supply, and of three varieties : wharf-rats, Chinese white rats, and a variety indigenous in the country. In eating, the Chinese use neither knives, forks or spoons, but take their food by the aid of two straight sticks (chop-sticks) about six inches long, which they handle with wonder- ful dexterity ; but a considerable number of them have already adopted the dress, and in part the customs of the Americans. They are fond of the black teas, but some of them will not use the green, and say it is dried on copper plates, and is poisonous. They keep their clothing and tents more cleanly than any other class of miners. RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 185 FRENCH. There are great numbers of French people in Cali- fornia, who are eminent for their activity and enterprise in business of all kinds. The Germans are also numerous, and generally in- telligent, and stand high in point of moral worth and respectability. KANAKAS. The Kanakas, (Sandwich Islanders,) are a stout, hardy race, and their appearance denotes a considerable de- gree of intelligence. At present, these people are in a half-civilized state. The Malays resemble them in appearance. Mexicans, Peruvians, Chilians, - proved of his doctrine, having myself used but little RETURN THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 241 medicine besides water, for the past thirty years.' — Water, diet, air, and exercise, constitute the chief part of my Materia Medica, and if every apothecary shop on the globe, together with their contents, had been in the midst of the Sacramento fire, it would have been no particular loss to me. I have had some sickness, as well as others, but I do not resort to drugs, mineral or vegetable, but to prescriptions drawn from my " Materia Medica." If we would cure our diseases, we must follow Nature, and obey' her instructions. The beasts of the field do this, and therefore take the safest course. When a brute is sick, he abstains from food until nature requires it, andAvill not swallow drugs of any kind, un- less compelled by absolute force. Let us study physic in the great Book of Nature, rather than pore over the pages of those ponderous volumes, beneath the weight of which the shelves of some medical libraries groan. BURNING OF THE STEAMSHIP INDEPENDENCE. April 11 th. — The passengers of the S. S. Lewis ar- rived in town all safe, and reported the vessel a total loss. The steamer Goliah went from this harbor, for the relief of the passengers and crew. Several California steamships have been lost on this coast within a few months, viz :■ — the Indepen- dence, the S. S. Lewis,