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THE 
 
 LACKAWANNA LEATHER CO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 PATENT ENAMEL LEATHERS 
 
 HACKETTSTOWN 
 NEW JERSEY 
 
 U. S. A. 
 

 
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 CO'N^ 
 
INTRODUCTION, 
 
 The purpose of this book is to sketch swiftly the evolution of a green steer hide into 
 finished upholstery leather — to describe and show the different grades in their unfinished state 
 so that buyers for furniture houses may know exactly what is underneath the finish. 
 
 LEATHER. — The skin or hide of an animal, 
 or any portion of such skin, when tanned, 
 tawed or otherwise dressed for use .—Standard 
 Dictionary. 
 
 LEATHER. — Cotton fabric, gun cotton finish. 
 Unscrupulous Salesmen. 
 
Hides suitable for manufacturing into upholstery leather are sold to the tannery in a wet 
 green salted condition by the pound, with eye holes, nose, lips, ears and long shanks still on 
 them. They are trimmed by the tanner, converted into leather, and sold when finished by the 
 square foot. Summer and early fall kill of cattle produce the most desirable hide. Hides from 
 this period have shorter hair than winter and early spring cattle, are more plump and are 
 generally free from grub holes. 
 
 Illustration No. 1 shows the end of a car of green salted packer spready steer hides in 
 the condition they arrive at the tannery. 
 
 The spread of these hides across the shoulders just back of the brisket is sold to measure 
 six feet six inches and over on stuck throat hides (Gentile slaughter) and six feet eight inches 
 and over on cut throats (Kosher slaughter), the cattle themselves usually weighing 1300 pounds 
 and up on the hoof. 
 
Illustration No. 2 shows the trimmings which are cut from the hides before they are put 
 in the first operation. These trimmings as formerly stated consist of eyes, lips, nose, ears, and 
 shanks below the knee cap. It is possible to make sole leather and harness leather from these 
 parts that we have trimmed off, but high-grade upholstering leather such as Lacka-Tan and 
 our other grades of leather must be closely trimmed, and we feel that the trade appreciates the 
 elimination of these narrow long shanks, as they not only make poor upholstering leather, but 
 cut to considerable waste. 
 
 These trimmings are used in the manufacture of glue, soap greases, and the residue used 
 as fertilizer. 
 
After the hides have been trimmed, the next operation consists of placing them in large 
 pools of clear water. The water frees the hide from salt and dirt, and softens the texture. 
 
 Illustration No. 3 shows a spready hide opened with the grain or hair side showing. 
 
 The Lackawanna Leather Company in the production of Lacka-Tan Leather, Machine 
 Buff Spanish, Top Grain Spanish, and Split Spanish, uses nothing whatever but prime packer 
 spready steer hides of domestic growth. Not only is the leather made in the U. S. A., but the 
 cattle which produce the hides are grown in the U. S. A. 
 
Illustration No. 4 shows a spready steer hide opened with the flesh or meat side showing. 
 
_ 
 
Illustration No. 5 shows the next operation which consists of removing the fat. This 
 fat when freed from the hide is re-salted and shipped to manufacturers who make neat’s-foot 
 oil of it. 
 
Illustration No. 6 shows the liming process. After the fat has been taken from the flesh 
 side of the hides, they are then placed in a lime bath with frequent raisings and lowerings in 
 order to give the lime solution a chance to equally effect all parts. The action of the lime is to 
 swell the hide and to soften or dissolve the fatty hair roots so the hair will slip out of its cell 
 easily. The hair is not shaved off as many suppose. Time required to lime a pack of 50 hides, 
 seven days. 
 
Illustration No. 7 shows the unhairing machine in operation. Part of the hide as you can 
 see has been freed of the hair. 
 
 This hair by-product finds its way to those who make a specialty of the manufacture of 
 hair felt, cushion filling, etc. 
 
The next operation is that of removing the loose fleshy material on the meat side of the 
 hide as performed by the machine seen in Illustration No. 8. This loose fleshy material is not 
 suitable for making leather. The material that comes off the hides is known as glue stock or 
 fleshings and is sold to glue factories. 
 
 After the fleshing machine operation the hides go through what is known as the bate 
 process. This consists of first; washing the hides in considerable clear water, second, treating 
 them to a bath containing chemicals which have a bacterial action on the hide, loosening up 
 and freeing the lime from the hide, third, the removal of these bacterial action chemicals with 
 large quantities of water. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
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The appliances used for these purposes are such as is shown in Illustration No. 9. Time 
 required for fifty hides varies from three to five hours according to the thickness of the hides. 
 
 After leaving the bate operation the hide is substantially in the same condition as it 
 was when received from the butcher, excepting it is minus fat, flesh, hair and dirt, and is 
 now ready to receive the primary stages of tanning. 
 
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Illustration No. 10 shows one of the tanning vats with hides suspended on a pivoted frame 
 ready to receive first a very mild tan liquor in point of tanning strength, and each day the 
 tanning strength of this liquor is increased until on the eighth day we have no longer a green 
 hide, but — leather. This leather, is not thoroughly tanned through and through, but is 
 sufficiently advanced in the tanning process to allow it to be put in condition for the splitting 
 machine. The pivoted frames upon which the hides, fifty in all, are hung are always in motion 
 agitating the hides and the liquor, resulting in quicker tan liquor penetration than if the hides 
 hung stationary. This style of tanning vat is known as a rocker. 
 

Illustration No. 11 shows a series of rocker vats each containing fifty hides completely 
 submerged in tan liquor. 
 
When the leather is taken from the rocker vats it is necessarily very wet, in fact dripping 
 wet, and must have a certain portion of this water taken from it before it can be split. To 
 accomplish this and without the necessity of putting the leather out on a clothesline, a wring¬ 
 ing machine is used. See Illustration No. 12. This machine accomplishes the work more by 
 absorption of the heavy felt rolls than it does by pressure. 
 
When the leather has passed through the wringing machine, the next operation is that 
 known as stoning. Illustration No. 13 shows this machine in operation. It irons or stones out 
 the wrinkles, flattens the leather, and is the final preparation for splitting. 
 
Illustration No. 14 shows the intake side of splitting machines with piles of leather on 
 platforms and horses, ready to pass through the machines. 
 
Illustration No. 15 shows the vital parts of a band or belt knife splitting machine. “A” 
 endless belt knife, flexible steel three inches wide, 1/32 inch thick, traveling at a speed of 475 
 feet per minute, kept sharp by the edge passing between two emery wheels continuously grind¬ 
 ing. “B,” steel shaft two inches in diameter and 106 inches long, styled gauge roll. The distance 
 from the bottom of the gauge roll to the edge of the knife is the thickness the leather will 
 be split. “C,” ring rolls two inches in diameter with one-inch face, of which there are one 
 hundred and six resting on “D”, a six-inch rubber roll one hundred and six inches long. The 
 duties of “C” and “D” are to hold uniform tension on the leather against “B,” and due to their 
 flexibility, they act quickly on the uneven parts of the hide, the rings sink into the rubber roll 
 at heavy parts and are forced up themselves by the rubber roll at light parts of the hide. 
 
Illustration No. 16 shows the exhaust side of a Splitting machine with a Machine Buffed 
 hide, which has previously had the Buffing taken from it, coming out on the top or above the 
 knife; while underneath the knife hanging to the floor is the balance of the steer hide, still in 
 one piece, yet containing a main split, a second Split, and the Leveler Split. It will be necessary 
 to pass this part of the hide through the machine twice before the operation of splitting is 
 complete. 
 
 To the layman mind, the splitting of the leather is probably one of the most interesting 
 features of the leather business. To the tanner’s mind it is one of the most sensitive. Thousands 
 of dollars’ worth of damages can be done in the splitting machine in a very few minutes. Not 
 only can a poor adjustment of the machine produce the leather irregular and poorly split, but 
 there are other causes over which the tanner or the belt-knife operator has absolutely no con¬ 
 trol, which go to make No. 2 or damaged leather at the splitting machines. One of these is 
 lead shot which the animal may have received from trespassing on someone’s property, not 
 easily distinguished because it is part of the way in the hide and the sore has healed up. If the 
 keen edge of the knife strikes this shot dead center, the damage effect is very slight, whereas if 
 the knife happens to strike the shot on the slant, the edge being very keen, long, and flexible, 
 will either be turned up or down. The gap in the knife is liable to cut either the Buffing or the 
 Machine Buffed hide in two parts from belly to belly. Thorns will cause this same damage. 
 In the buffing operation, due to the fact that the buffing is so extremely light, the slightest 
 traces of grit on the grain side will cause damages to the buffing by cutting it in two, and the 
 Machine Buffed hide itself may suffer from scratches. 
 
 Leather can be split any way you desire it. You have a certain thickness of hide and 
 you can make 2 - 4 or 24 parts as you like. The questions that always come up are, first, are 
 they salable, and second, will these different parts have sufficient strength when you take an 
 excess number of pieces from one hide. A prominent manufacturer of leather substitutes some 
 time ago inserted an advertisement in various magazines calling on the public to answer this 
 question, “How many hides has a cow?” The writer of the ad freely admitted that it was a 
 foolish question, and so far we have found no one tp contradict him. The question is very 
 much like the old nursery conundrum, “How many cows’ tails to reach the moon.” If we were 
 extremely anxious to rip up some money, we could probably put a steer hide through the 
 splitting machine fifty times and then some, and get fifty as thin as tissue paper sheets of 
 leather. Of course they would have value only in answering the “foolish question.” 
 
Splits when put through a splitting machine at the proper substance are strong and 
 pliable enough for the purposes they are intended, and that is for plain work on medium-priced 
 goods, flat seats for dining chairs, slip seats, or linings. This company does not guarantee splits 
 for tufting purposes, any grade that it makes. The split leather with linseed oil finish will look 
 well and wear well for the purposes manufactured, and continue to look like leather, real 
 leather, long after coated fabric substitutes have shown signs of distress by exposing the weave 
 in the cloth. A few years ago some of the manufacturers of upholstery leather used soluble gun 
 cotton, commonly called dope finish, on their splits. This highly inflammable material was not 
 satisfactory. It had no wearing qualities as compared with linseed oil, and those who used this 
 dope-finished leather had considerable trouble with it. It might be safely said to-day that all 
 patent and enameled leather manufacturers of upholstery leathers are using linseed oil and that 
 dope finishes have been confined to the fabric imitations of leather. 
 
 Attached to the cover of this book we have placed miniature russet hides of leather in the 
 different grades in the rotation they come from the steer hide. The first is the Buffing, an 
 extremely thin piece of leather, suitable only when stained or dyed for pocket books, jewelry 
 and camera case coverings, and book bindings. The second is the most valuable and best 
 product, the Machine Buff hide; third the main Split; fourth, what is known as the second Split 
 or extra Split, and then follows the Leveller Split commonly called a Slab, which is the uneven 
 part of the steer hide, and is not used for furniture leathers, but usually for inner soles for 
 shoes, horse collars, and frequently in the manufacture of uppers for a very low grade of brogan 
 boots and shoes. This Slab or Leveller Split varies in substance, from the thickness of tissue 
 paper out in the flanks, bellies and shoulders, to as thick as one-eighth of an inch in the Butts 
 and the tip of the head. 
 
 After leaving the splitting machine the different parts are now ready for the next operation 
 which is called re-tanning, and it is really finishing out the stage of tanning commenced by the 
 rocker vats. As the hide is split into thin sheets, it necessarily follows that quicker results wifi be 
 obtained in finishing the tanning process. To accomplish this re-tanning, the Splits and Machine 
 Buffed hides are placed in what is known as paddle wheels containing tan liquor. The wheels, 
 when in operation, compel the hides to float continuously 
 
 Illustration 17 shows sectional view of retanning room 
 

After the re-tanning process, all the product with the exception of the Buffing and the Slab 
 are turned over to the scouring and sumacing process. Scouring consists of rinsing the different 
 parts of the hide in water and then passing them through a scouring machine that frees the 
 pieces of leather from the surface tanning. See Illustration 18. 
 

 
 
 
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The second operation in this process is to submit the different parts to a sumac bath. 
 Sumac is the leaf from the sumac tree ground to a powder boiled and something like a 
 tea drawn from it. The different parts get the sumac process from two to three days. This 
 has an action on the leather of bleaching it, brightening its color, and as there is considerable 
 tannin in the sumac of a very soft nature, it helps to add pliability to the leather. Sumacing 
 is done in boxes (see Illustration No. 19), and also in paddle wheels. 
 
The next process is that of lubricating the leather, known as stuffing. The different 
 parts receive a coating of cod oil and other greases which also have quite a lot of bearing on the 
 pliability and strength of the leather. Illustration No. 20 shows the stuffing process as done 
 by hand. The surface water is squeezed out of the hide with a steel slicker and the greases 
 are applied to the flesh side on M.B. and Splits, and to both sides in the case of Top Grains. 
 
■I 
 
Following up the process, the leather then goes to what is known as the wet tacking 
 frames as shown in Illustration No. 21. After it has been tacked on the frame, the table which 
 supports the frame is made to expand, this drives the frame to all four points and is then bolted 
 tight, stood on edge and allowed to dry. 
 
From the drying lofts the leather passes to the softening process. Two machines ; 
 used by this company for this purpose. (Illustration 22 and Illustration 23). The leather 
 then ready for enamelling and is now styled “in the russet.” 
 
In addition to the russet leather samples attached to cover of the book illustrating the 
 cuts as they are made from Machine Buff Leather, we have also inserted miniature hides of 
 russet leather in Full Top Grain, Deep Buff, Special Machine Buff, etc. These are worthy of 
 your close inspection. 
 
 Deep Buff is probably the most abused name of all the upholstering leathers. Accord¬ 
 ing to some, any Split may with impunity be called a Deep Buff. To produce the “simon pure” 
 article the Deep Buff cut must be nearer the hair side than Splits are, the accepted rule being 
 that underneath a Tipping Grain (patent leather for ladies’ shoe tips) the only true Deep Buff 
 is produced. 
 
Illustration No. 24 shows a section of our russet leather room. The M. B. hides and splits 
 are all here ready for enamelling and are sorted up into the various grades which we anticipate 
 they will produce when finished. 
 
The next process is that of enamelling. Illustration No. 25 shows a hide tacked on a 
 Japan shop frame, where it will remain until it has had its several coats of linseed oil, varying 
 from six to eight according to the nature of the leather and the covering qualities of the 
 colors used. In the manufacture of Lacka-Tan leather and all other grades of leather made by 
 this company we use absolutely nothing but linseed oil and pigments, no dopes, pyroxolines, gun 
 cottons, or any highly inflammable finishes of this description. Aniline dye, frequently used for 
 staining leather, is not used by us in any part of the process. 
 
The boiling of linseed oil is a slow and tedious proposition. The various coats are boiled 
 to different consistencies, the first coat material being extremely thick, as thick as jelly, whereas 
 in the last coats the oil is thin and has about the consistency of molasses. Illustration No. 26 
 shows a kettle of linseed oil over a coke fire, where it will be heated to temperatures as high as 
 600° F. and held in these temperatures for from three to seven hours according to the consist¬ 
 ency desired. In the boiling of linseed oil for the priming coats, it is necessary to pour naphtha 
 over this kettle of material at a very high temperature. 
 
27 
 
 
Illustration No. 27 shows the kettle with the heavy gases coming off just after pouring 
 50 gallons of naphtha on top of 100 gallons of boiling linseed oil at a temperature running 
 between 375° and 385° F. 
 
Having described the materials that are used and how they are made, we now go to the 
 enamelling process. Illustration No. 28 shows a yard full of leather which has had the first 
 or prime coat. The first coat is dried outside. It is not necessary to have sun, a good dry windy 
 day will accomplish the oxidizing of the priming coat out of doors in from three to five hours. 
 
Illustration No. 29 shows one of our Japan shop rooms. The first four coats are applied 
 with a steel slicker. The team in the foreground is applying the second coat of material. An 
 abundance of this second coat material is put on the hide and rubbed over it with the back of 
 the slicker, and then taken off as clean as possible, the coat itself not equalling the thickness 
 of tissue paper. In the background may be seen teams applying the brush coats. 
 
Then follow the balance of the coats which are all applied in-doors and require one night 
 in the ovens (Illustration 30) to dry, each coat. 
 

 
 
 i 
 
After the enamelling process, all Spanish grades, with the exception of the Lacka-Tan 
 grade, go to the embossing machines (Illustration 31), where they have the impression applied 
 to them that gives the various Spanish impression effects. 
 
From the embossing machines the leather goes to the Spanish black coat room. Illustra¬ 
 tion 32 shows the employees in the act of applying the black coat, which is first applied and then 
 rubbed off the high spots. The leather is then dried and is ready for a soft graining operation, 
 which is done with a cork armboard. 
 
33 
 
 1 >* 
 
Illustration No. 33 shows the men at this work. The next operation consists of cleaning 
 the leather on the finished side, and it is then ready for the measuring machine. 
 
Illustration No. 34 shows a hide going through the machine. This machine with five 
 men putting leather through and carrying away has a capacity of something like 350 hides 
 per hour. 
 
After measuring and marking, the leather is rolled up and placed in the bins. A section 
 of our ware-room may be seen in Illustration No. 35. 
 
 LACKA-TAN, 
 
 Lacka-Tan Leather differs from all other grades we make to the following extent—-the 
 process is the same up to the splitting machines. At the splitting machine, after the hides have 
 had the buffing, the light thin grain piece, taken from them, a careful assortment is made for 
 those hides which are best adapted for the Lacka-Tan grade. The Lacka-Tan grade then is 
 split a fraction heavier than the regular Machine Buff leather. In the re-tanning process it 
 differs radically from all other leathers we make, as it is in the re-tanning of this leather that 
 we are able to manipulate our tanning materials in such a way that they contract the grain 
 and bring out the crevices that are found in Lacka-Tan leather. The process from the re-tan¬ 
 ning paddles throughout the balance of the factory is the same as all other grades of leather, 
 until you reach the embossing machines. Lacka-Tan leather is not embossed, but the crevices 
 originally shrunk into the grain by the re-tanning process are sufficiently deep so that when 
 the black Spanish rub is applied and then rubbed off, the effects of these crevices are plainly seen. 
 
 An 80-pound steer hide that will produce from 57 to 58 feet of pebble grain or embossed 
 Machine Buff Spanish leather will produce but 52 or 53 feet of Lacka-Tan. The reason is simple 
 — the shrinking of the grain in the re-tanning process loses this measurement. The Lacka- 
 Tan leather is of course softer than the embossed Machine Buff for the reason that it has had 
 at no time a pressure applied to it like is necessary to bring out the Spanish effect on embossed 
 leather. 
 
 Lacka-Tan leather is in a class by itself. The process being a natural grain, it necessarily 
 follows that each and every hide will have some little distinctive character that cannot be pro¬ 
 duced by the embossing process. You might take a million square feet of Lacka-Tan leather 
 and find no two square feet exactly alike, but in the case of the embossed grades of Spanish 
 leather you will find a reproduction as often as it is necessary to apply the impression per hide, 
 according to the size of the electroplate. These vary, 18" x 24", 22" x 24", and 22" x 40". 
 


 
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