h c ) OF THE G lip of';^H^Irtl(S O R ADefcriprion of the molt Eleg-ant or Magnificent Puplic Ed if ice s , Royal Palac e 8 , ¥0BLEME¥S and GeNTLEMENS SEATS, and (>f In- r Cjjriositie s, j\ T if/u/'tf/ or. Artificial , it l ) the different parts of the Kingdom^ N — " " ADOMED WITH ■ ^ a Variety of Copper Plate CuTs.neat/v Engraved. Volume the First, The Third Edition. L O ¥ D O }sT: Printed for R.GoADJiY; and Sold oy J. To WE US, at JST?]U,mPore Street.near Crippleg-atei&R.BALDWiN, N° 4 y, in Pater no iter Row . MDCCLXXVI. A NEW DISPLAY OF THE BEAUTIES of ENGLAND: R, A Defcription of the moft elegant or magnificent Public Edifices, Royal Palaces, Noblemen s and GentlemensSe ats, and other Curiosities, natural or artificial, in different Parts of the Kingdom. ADORNED with Variety of Copper plate Cuts, neatly engraved, Jri England's happy IJle we fee difplafd The Charms of Nature, and the Force of Art : Our Hills and Dales with Verdure all array 'd, All that can pleafe the Eye, or chear the Heart. VOLUME the FIRS T. The THIRD EDITION. LONDON: Printed for R. Goad by; and fold by J. Towers, at No. in, in Fore-ftreet, near Cripplegate; and by R. Bald- win, No. 47, in Pater-nofter-row. M.DCC.LXXVII. PREFACE. As the principal defign of this Work was to give defcriptions of the moft elegant and magnificent Public Edifices, Royal Palaces, and Noblemens and Gentlemens Seats in England, it was judged not improper to begin with that part of the Kingdom, which is within the diftance of about twen- ty miles round London, where a greater greater number of thefe are to be found, than in any other diftri£fc of the fame extent. And as the greateft part of our firft Volume is employed in defcribing this dif- tri£t, it was found moft conve- nient not to attend to the divifion of the Counties. But in the fe- cond Volume, wherein remoter parts of the Kingdom are given an account of, the places defcri- bed have been exa£tly clafled un- der their refpe£tive Counties. A defcription of a greater num- ber of Noblemens and Gentle- mens Seats is to be found in this Work, than can be met with in any other publication j as this was our c £ ) our capital obje£L And of thefe a very unufual number of engra- ved views are given. But in or- der to render the Work more compleat, fome account is alfo given of all the cities and market- towns in the kingdom, London excepted, a defcription of which could not have been comprehended within our intended limits. It is prefumed, that this Work will be found an agreeable compa- nion for thofe who may occafi- onally vifit different parts of Eng- land, in order to take a view of the many fine palaces and feats with which this kingdom abounds. And thofe who may not have an oppor- ( iv ) opportunity of perfonally vifiting thofe delightful retreats, may yet receive no inconfiderable degree of fatisfa£tion, from thofe ac- counts and views of them, which are given in this Work. £ 3 3 N£W display OF THE BEAUTIES of ENGLAND. NOTHING is more natural than a defire of being acquainted with whatever is moft: beautiful, remark- able, or curious in our own country. If we are plealingly gratified with defcriptions of foreign coun- tries, furely the curiofities of our native land cannot be lefs worthy our attention. England is not only endeared to us by our connection with it, but has a juft claim to our regard from the great variety of natural and artificial curiofities with which it abounds. It is the favourite refidence of plenty and of freedom, of wealth, and of commerce; and the many advan- tages and excellencies with which nature has liberally endowed it, have been aided by the indefatigable induftry of the inhabi- tants ; which is fufficiently evinced by the high degree of cultiva- tion which appears in almoft every part of the kingdom. Though the air of England is for the moft part thick and heavy, and the weather very precarious, and often extremely A 2 foggy 5 4 A NEW DISPLAY OF foggy ; yet even this variety of weather is attended with con • fiderable advantages. For, in the firft place, it fecures the ifland from thofe extremes of heat and cold, to which other nations, though within the fame degree of latitude, are annually expofed ; and it is in a great meafure owing to this moderation of the climate, that the inhabitants of this ifland live to as great an age as in any part of Europe whatfoever. And that perpe- tual verdure for which England is remarkable, and for which it is greatly admired by all foreigners who come hither, is occafioned by the refrefhing fhowers and the warm vapours of the fea. With refpecf. to the climate of England, there is an obfer- vation concerning it that was jriade by King Charles the Se- cond, as we are informed by Sir William Temple, that de- ferves to be remembered. ' I muff, needs add one thing (fays « Sir W T illiam) in favour of our climate, which I heard the « King fay, and I thought new and right, and truly like a « King of England, that loved and efteemed his own country. « 'Twas in reply to feme company, that were reviling our cii- < mate, and extolling thofe of Italy and Spain, or at leaft of « France. He faid, *' He thought that that was the beft cli- *' mate, where he could be abroad in the air with pleafure, or at " leaft without trouble or inconvenience, the moft days of the " year, and the moft houtsof the day; and this he thought he " could be in England, more than in any country he knew in ** Europe." And I believe (adds Sir William) it is true, not c only of the hot and the cold, but even among our neighbours *■ in France and the Low Countries themfelves, where the heats 6 or the colds, and changes of feafons, are lefs treatable than * they are with us.' It has been jufily obferved, that no country in the world can equal the cultivated parts of England for the great number of beautiful fcenes with which it is adorned. I he variety of high-lands and low-lands, the former gently {welling, and both of them forming profpecls equal to the moft luxuriant imagination, the Corn and meadow ground, the intermixtures of inclofures and plantations, the noble feats, comfortable houfes, chearful villages, and well ftocked farms, often rifing in the neighbourhood of populous towns and cities, decorated with the moft vivid colour of nature, afford an inexprefiible pleafure. Before we proceed to treat of the more diffant parts of the kingdom, we fhal! give fome account of the palaces, moft ele- gant THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. j gant country feats, and other curiofities, within the diftance of about twenty miles round London. And we (hall begin with; KEW, as that place is at prefent honoured with being the re- iidence of his Majefty. The palace of Kew is a neat, plain building; but by no means fuitable to the dignity of a King of Great Biitain. The principal court of the palace is in the middle ; the ftable court on the left hand ; and the kitchen courts on the right. As you enter the houfe from the principal court, a veftibule leads to the great hall, which occupies two ftories in height, and receives its light from windows in the upper ftory. It is furnifhed with full-length portraits, reprefenting King William III. Queen Mary, the prefent King of Pruffia, the late Emperor of Germany, the prefent hereditary Prince of Brunfwick, the late Elector of Cologne, and that famous Statefman Lord Trea- furer Burleigh. Befides which there is a very good hunting piece by Mr. Wootton, wherein are represented the late Frede- rick Prince of Wales, Lord Baltimore, Lord Cholmondeley, Lord Bofton, Colonel Pelham, and feveral of his Royal High- nefs's attendants. In this room are likewife two large vafes of ftatuary marble, on which are cut in baflb relievo the four fea- fons of the year. From the hall a paflage leads to the garden, and on the right hand of this pafiage is their Majefties apartment, confiding of an anti chamber, a drawing-room, a cabinet, and a gallery, with waiting rooms, and other conveniencies for attendants. The anti-chamber is hung with tapeftry, and over the doors are two portraits, the one of the late Lord Cobham, the other of the late Earl of Chefterfield. The drawing room is likewife hung with tapeftry. Over the doors are the portraits of King George I. and the late prince of Wales, father to his prefent Majefty. There is alfo ano- ther picture in the room with three heads, being the portraits of the late Princefs of Orange, and the Princeffes Amelia and Caroline. The cabinet is furnifhed with pannels of Japan; the cieling is gilt; whxh, together with the chimney-piece, was de- figned by the late ingenious Mr. Kent. The gallery, with all its furniture, is entirely executed from defigns of the fame artift. The colour of the wainfeotting is blue, and the orna- ments are gilt. Over the chimney is a portrait of the late Princefs of Orange, in a riding drefs ; and on each fide of it is a very fine picture by the celebrated Mr. Wootton ; tha 2 one 6 A NEW DISPLAY OF one rcprefenting a flag at bay, and the other a return from the chace. T he fcene of both is Windfor foreft, and the perfons reprefe^ted are the late Prince of Wales, the late Duke of Marlborough, Mr. Spencer, the Duke of Chandois, the Mar- quis of Powis, Lord Jerfey, and feveral other noblemen, gen- tlemen, a. d attendants. On the left of che paflage which leads to the garden, are the apartments of the bed-chamber women. In their drawing- ruom is a very large collection of portraits of illuftrious perfons of both fexes; none of them very finely painted, yet curious and very entertaining. The cieling is executed from a defign of Mr. Kent's ; as are ljkewife the cieling, chimney piece, and all Other parts of their dining room. The cieling of the great ftaircafe was alfo defigned by Mr. Ken<\ The principal floor is diftributed into one ftate apart- ment for their Majefties, and into lodging rooms for their chil- dren and attendants. The ftate apartment confifts of a gallery, a drawing room, a drelfing room, an anti-chamber, a bed room, and clofcts. The walls of the gallery are adorned with grotefque paint- ings, and children in theatrical drefles, by the late Mr. John Ellis. The chimney-piece and all the furniture, are from de- figns cf Mr. Kent ; and on the piers between the windows ate fo> r large painu-d looking glaffes from china. The cieling of the drawing-room was deftgned and painted by Mr. Kent, with grotefque ornaments, in party colours and gold. The center compartment reprefents the ftory of Leda. The room is hung with green filk, and furnifhed with a very pretty collection of pictures, by Domenichino, Paul Veronefe, Albano, Claude Lorrain, Cornelius Janfen, &c. The Drt fling Room is richly furnifhed with Japan cabinets, and a great variety of curious works in Drefden porcelain, am- ber, iv ory, &c. and there are alfo in it two large pictures, the one by Dupan, reprefenting the children of the royal family at play ; and the other, the late Princefs Dowager of Wales,' with his prefent Majefty, the late Duke of York, and the Princefs of Brunfwick, all in their infancy, attended by Lord Bolton, Lady Archibald Hamilton, and Mrs. Herbert. Their Majefties bed-chamber is hung with tapeftry ; the ciel- ing and chimney-piece were defigned by Mr. Kent. The anti- chamber and clofets contain nothing remarkable, excepting an hygrometer of a very curious conftruftion, invented and execu- ted by the ingenious Mr. Pullein, one of the Chaplains to the late Princefs Dowager. The THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. The Gardens of Kew are not very advantzgeoufly cir- cumftanced with refpe£t to their fituation, as it is low, and com- mands no profpeft. Originally the ground was one continued flat; the foil was in general barren, and without either wood or water. With fo many difadvantages, it was not eafy to pro- duce any thing even tolerable in gardening. But with great expence and labour, all difficulties were at lerigth overcome ; and what was once a defart, is now a kind of Eden And the judgment with which art hath been employed to fupply the de- fects of nature, and to cover its deformities, hath excited general admiration. On entering the garden from the palace, and turning towards the left hand, the firft building which appears is the Orangery, or Green-Houje ; which was defigned by Mr. Chambers, (now Sir William Chambers) and built under his infpe&ion in the year 1761. The front extends one hundied and forty five feet ; the room is one hundred and forty-two feet long, thirty-fix wide, and twenty-five high. In the back fhed are two furnaces to heat flues, laid under the pavement of the orangery, which are found very ufeful, and indeed very neceflary in times of hard frott. What is called the Temple of the Sun, is fituated in an open grove near the orangery, and in the way to the phyfic garden, its figure is of the circular peripteros kind, but without an attic ; and there is a particularity in the entablature, of which the hint is taken from one of the temples of Balbec. T heorder is Co- rinthian, the columns fluted, and the entablature fully enriched. Over each column on the fiize are baflb relievos, repreftnting lyres and fpngs of laurel ; and round the upper part of trie cell are fufpended feftoons of fruits and flowers. The infide of the cell forms a faloon richly furnifhed and gilt. In the center of its cove is represented the fun, and on the frize, in twelve compart- ments, furrounded with branches of laurel, are reprefented the figns of the zodiac in baflb relievo. This building was alio erected by Sir William Chambers. The Phyfic or Exotic Garden contains a prodigious variety of curious plants collected with great d ligence and judgment by the late Dr. Hill ; whofe abilities as a Botanift are well known. Several ftoves have been built for the cultivation of thcfc plants ; and, amongft others, one very large one, its extent from ealt to weft being one hundred and fourteen feet. Contiguous to the exotic garden is the Flower Gardens of which the principal entrance, with a ftand on eac*b fide of it for rare flowers, forms one end. The two fides are enclofed ' " with 8 A NEW DISPLAY OF with high trees, and the end facing the principal entrance is oc- cupied by an aviary of a vaft depth, in which is kept a nume- rous colled ion of birds both foreign and dcmeftic. The parterre is divided by walks into a great number of beds, in which all kinds of beautiful flowers are to be feen, during the greateft part of the year ; and in its center is a bafon of water itocked with gold From the flower-garden a fliort winding walk leads to the Menagerie. It is of an oval figure; the center is occupied by a large bafon of water, furrounded by a walk; and the whole is cnclofed by a range of pens, or large cages, in which are kept great numbers of Chinefe and Tartarian pheafants, befidesmany forts of other large exotic birds. The bafon is flocked with fuch water-fowl as are too tender to live on the lake, and in the middle of it ftands a pavilion of an irregular octagon plan, de- signed by Sir William Chambers, in imitation" of a Chinefe open Ting, and built in the year 1763. Near the Menagerie ftands the Temple of Bellona, which was alfo ere&ed by Sir William Chambers. And paffing from the Menagerie towards the lake, in a reared folitary walk on the left, is the Te?npk of the God Pan, which is of the monopteros; kind, but clofed on the fide towards the thicket, in order to make it fervefor a feat. It is of the Doric order; the profile imitated from that of the theatre of Marcellus at Rome. Not far from hence on an eminence, ftands the Temple of Eolus. The order is compofite, in which the Doric is predominant. Within the columns is; a large femicircular nich, ferving as a feat, which revolves on a pivot, and may with great eafe be turned by one hand to any expofition, notwithstanding its fize. The Temple of Solitude is iituated very near the fouth front of the palace. At the head of the lake, and near the Temple of Eolus, ftands a Chinefe' octagon building of two ftories, built many years ago ; and which is commonly called the Houfe of Con- fucius. The lower ftory confifts of one room and two clofets, and the upper ftory is one little faloon, commanding a very pleafant profpecl over the lake and gardens. Its walls and cieling are painted with grotefque ornaments, and little hiftorical fubjects relating to Confucius, with feveral tranfaclions of the Chriftian miffions in China. In a thicket near the houfe of Confucius, is erected the engine which fupplies the lake and bafons in the gardens with water. It was contrived by Mr. Smeaton, and executed under his direction in the year 1 761- ? ' - • ' ■ : 2 ■ • " It THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. g Jt anfwers perfectly well, railing by means of two horfes, up- wards of 3600 hogfheads of water in twelve hours. From the Houfe of Confucius a covered clofe walk leads to a grove, where is placed a femi-o&agon feat. A winding walk, on the right hand of the grove, leads to an open plain, on one fide of which, backed with thickets, on a rifing ground, is placed a Corinthian colonnade, defigned and built by Sir Wil- liam Chambers in the year 1760, and called the Theatre of Au- The tlext building which offers itfelf to view, is the Temple of Victory. It ftands on a hill, and was built in commemora- tion of the fignal victory obtained, on the ift of AugulT, 1759, at Minden, by the allied army, under Prince Ferdinand of Brunfwick, over the French army, commanded by the Marfhal de Contadts. The cell, which commands a pretty profpecl: to- wards Richmond, and likewife over Middlefex, is neatly finifhed with ftucco ornaments. Thofe in the cieling reprefent ftan- dards, and other French trophies. The upper part of the garden compofes a large wilder- nefs, on the border of which itands a Morefque building, com- monly called The Alhambra. This confifts of a faloon, fronted with a portico of coupled columns, and crowned with a lan- thorn. On an open fpace, near the center of the fame wildernefs, is erected the Tower commonly called The great Pagoda. This was begun under Sir William Chambers's dirediion, in the autumn of the year 1761, and covered in the fpring of the year 1762. The defign is an imitation of the Eaftern temples, and particularly of the Chinefe Taa. The bafe is a regular oclagon, forty-nine feet in diameter ; and the fuperftrucl'ute is likewife a regular octagon in its plan, and its elevation compofed of ten prifms, which, form the ten different ftories of the build- ing. The lowefr. of thefe is twenty-fix feet in diameter, cxclu- five of the portico which furrounds it, and eighteen feet high ; the fecond is twenty-five feet in diameter, and feventeen feet high j and all the reft diminifh in diameter and height, in the fame arithmetical proportion, to the ninth ftory, which is eighteen feet in diameter, and ten feet high. The tenth ftory is feventeen feet in diameter, and, with the covering, twenty feet high ; and the finifhing on the top is feventeen feet high : fo that the whole ftru£ture, from the bafe to the top of the fleuron, is one hundred and fixty-three feet. Each ftory finifhes with a piojedting roof, after the Chinefe manner, covered tvith. plates of varnifhed iron of different colours ; and round each Vol. I. B of A NEW DISPLAY OF of them there is a gallery enclofed with a rail. All the angles of the roof are adorned with largs dragons, being eighty in number, covered with a kinl of thin glafs of various colours, which produces a moft dazzling reflexion ; and the whole or- nament at the top is double gilt. The walls of the building are compofed of very hard bricks; the outfide of well-coloured and well matched grey-flocks, neatly laid, and with fuch care, that there is not the leatf. crack or fracture in the whole ftruclure y notwithstanding its great height, and the expedition with which k was built. The Itair-cafe, which leads to the different fto- lies, is in the center of the building. Notwithstanding the ground on which this ftrucT:ure is erected lies lowj we have, on' a clear day, a very fine profpedl from the top of this elegant building ; whence we may fee northward, the hills of Harrow, Hampftead, and Highgate, fouthvvard to Banftead-downs and Epfom, taking in all that fine profpect of the county of Surrey, including Efher, Epfom-courfe, Wimble- ton, Richmond park, Putney heath, with the whole county away to Carfhalton and Croydon, &c. Eaftward we have a fine view of the river up to London, with the beautiful feats and pleafant villages on each fide, as far as Blackheath and Shooter's hill, which bound the profpedl on this fide. In the fame man- ner the Thames affords a fine profptct weftward, of Hampton- court, and all the delightful country feats and villages along the river to Maidenhead-bridge, Windfor, &c. &c. In fhort, there is not, perhaps, another place in the world, from which ib beautiful, populous, and wdl cultivated a fpot can be feen, as from the top- of the Pagoda in Kew- gardens. Near the great Pagoda, on a rifing ground, backed with thickets, (lands The Mofque ; which was defigned and built by Sir William Chambers in the year 1761. The body of the building confifts of an octagon faloon in the center, flanked with two cabinets, finifhing with one large dome, and two frnall ones. The large dome is crowned with a crefcent, and its up- right part contains twenty-eight little arches, which give light to the faloon. On the three front fides of the central octagon are three doors, giving entrance to the building ; over each of which there is an Arabic inscription, which may be thus tranflated : i paffing through a frnall wildernefs, you leave the gardens to the wefi of which are feen the fine houfes of feveral of the Nobility and Gentry. We fhall conclude our remarks rela'ive to the gar- dens, with ohferving, that the grand terras, which overlooks the river, is admired by all foreigners. Richmond Green is extreamly pleafanf, it being levelled and enclofed in a handfome manner. It is alfo furrounded with lofty elms, and adorned on each- fide with the houfes of perfons of diftin&ion. A fun dial is here affixed in a pretty tafte, en- compaffed with feats : this, and the railing- in of the green, were at thefole expence of the late Queen Caroline. Trie village of Richmond* for town, as it is frequently 'called) 16 A NEW DISPLAY OF called) extends a full mile up the hill from the Thames flcirted and mingled with gardens. It is now a flourifhing place ; and a theatre lias lately been erected here, where, dur- ing the fummer feafon, dramatic entertainments are performed on the ftage, by fome of the befr, adtors from London : for many people of fafhion refide here, and in the neighbourhood. Great numbers from London are alfo conftantly vifiting the gar- dens, fome going in parties by water, and others in the ftage or their own carriages. The fummit of Richmond Hill affords a moft enchanting profpedt of towns, villages, bridges, woods, groves^ gardens, fields, and an incredible number of delightful villas along thfe banks of the river Thames, which winds with a ferpentine courfe through this delicious vale from Kingfton to London. The tide before the building of Weftminfter bridge, ufed to fife as high as Richmond, but now falls fliort of it. It ftillj however, reaches fixty miles from the fea j which is a greater diftarice than the tide is carried by any other river in Eu- ro P e - % There is here an alms-noufe, which was built by Dr. Duppa, bifhop of Winchefter, in the reign of King Charles II. for the fupport of ten poor widows, purfuant to a vow made by that ' prelate during that prince's exjle. There is alfo another alms- houfe, endowed with above iool. a year, which, fmce its foun- dation, has been confiderably encreafed by John Mitchell, Efq. Here arelikewife two charity-fchools, one for fifty boys, and the other for fifty girls. Richmond Park, fometimes called the New Park in Surry, is one of the beft parks in England. It was made in the reign of King Charles I. and enclofed with a brick wall, faid to be eleven miles in compafs. In this park there is a little hill caft up, called King Fienry's mount, from which is a profpect of fix counties, with a diftant view of the city of London, and of Windfor-caftle. The new lodge in this park, built by the late Sir Robert Walpole, Earl of Orford, is a very elegant edifice. Jt is built of ftone in a fquare form, with wings on each fide of brick. It ftands on a rifing-ground, and com- mands a very good profpect of the park. This park is the largeft of any within the environs of London, except that of Windfor, and the fineft too } for though it has little more than a wild variety of natural beauties to (hew, yet thefe are fuch as cannot fail to pleafe thofe who are as much delighted with views in their rudeft appearance, as in all the elegance of art and defign. * SI ON- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND 17 SION- HOUSE. Directly oppofite to the royal gardens at Richmond, though on the other fide of the river and in another county, ftands Slon-houfe, one of the feats of the Duke of Northumberland. It is called Sion from a monaftery of the fame name, which was founded by Henry V. in 1414, very near the place where the houfe now ftands, and which was endowed with one thoufand marks a year, for the maintenance of fixty nuns, including the abbefs and twenty-five men. The prefent edifice was erected by the Duke of Somerfet, Protector, and uncle to King Ed- ward the Sixth; who began to build it about the year 1547; but many and great additfons and improvements have been fince made to it, and efpecially by the prefent Duke of Nor- thumberland. Sion Houfe is built on the very fpot where the church belonging to the monaftery formerly flood, and is a very large, venerable, and majeftic ftructure, built of white ftone, in the form of a hallow fquare; fo that it has four ex- ternal, and as many internal fronts; the latter of which fur- round a fquare court in the middle. The roof is flat, co- vered with lead, and furrounded with indented battlements, like the walls of a fortified city. Upon every one of the four outward angles of the roof, there is a fquare turret, flat-roofed, and embattled like other parts of the building. The^houfe is three ftories high, and the eaft front, which face^hp Thames, is fupported by arches, forming a fine piazza. Thei- great hall was finifhed in the manner in which it at prefent ap- * pears by Inigo Jones ; who was alfo employed to new face the ' inner court, and to make fome alterations infeveral of the apart- ments. The gardens at Sion were fir ft laid out and finiflied in a very grand manner by the Protector Somerfet ; but being made at a time when extenfive views were judged to be inconfiftent with that folemn referve and ftately privacy affected by the great, they were fo fituated as to deprive the houfe of every beautiful profpect which the neighbourhood afforded : at leaft none of them could be feen from the lower apartments. To re- medy this inconvenience, the pfefent Duke of Northumber- land caufed a high triangular terras, which the Protector had raifed at a great expence, to be removed ; the walls of the old gardens were alfo taken down, and the ground before the , houfe levelled, and it now forms a fine lawn, extending from Ifleworth to Brentford. By thefe means a beautiful profpect is not only opened into the royal gardens at Richmond, but alfo Vol. I, C up A NEW DISPLAY OF up and down the river Thames. Towards the Thames the lawn is bounded by an ha-ha, and a meadow; which his Grace ordered to be cut down into a gentle ftope, fo that thefurface of the water may now be feen even from the loweft apartments and the gardens. In confequence of thefe improvements, the mofc beautiful pieces of fcenery imaginable is formed before two of the principal fronts, for even the Thames itfelf feems to belong to the gardens. The houfe {lands nearly in the middle point of that fide o£ the law n which is the furtheft from the Thames, and commu- nicates with Ifleworth and Brentford, either by means of the lawn or a fine gravel walk, which in fome places runs along the fide, and in others through the middle of a beautiful fhrub- bery ; fo that even the moft retired parts of this charming maze, where the profpecT: is moft confined, almoft the whole ve- getable world rifes up as it were in minature around you, and prcfents you with every foreign fhrub, plant, and flower, which can be adopted by the foil of this climate. The prefent Duke of Northumberland has not only thus improved the ground where the old gardens flood, but has alfo made a very large addition to it, and feparated the two parts by making a new ferpentine river. It communicates with the Thames, is well ftored with all forts of river fifh, and can be emptied and filled by means of a fluice, which is fo contrived as to admit the fifh into the new river, but to prevent their returning back into the Thames. His Grace has alfo built two bridges, which form a communication between the two gar- dens, and haseredted in that, which lies near Brentford, a (late- ly Doric column ; upon the top of which is a fine proportioned ftatue of Flora, fo judicioufly placed as to command as it were a diftin£l view of the fituation over which {he is fup pofed to pre- fide. The Kitchen gardens are very large, lie at a proper diftance from the houfe, and contain every thing neceffary or conveni- ent, as a hot houfe, fire-walls, &c. The green houfe is a very neat building, with a Gothic front, defigned by his Grace in fo light a ftyle, as to be greatly admired. The back and end walls of it are the only remains of the old monaftery. This building {lands near a circular bafon of water, well flocked with gold and filver fifh ; and in the middle of the bafon is a fpouting fountain, which is well fupplied, and plays without intermiffion. Among the moft remarkable particulars at Sion-houfe is the great gallery, which extends the whole length of theeaft-front over THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 19 over the arcades. There is alio an immenfe quantity of old china vafes, of different forms and fizes, crowded together in almoft every apartment. And the Pedigree picture here is one of the greateft curiofities of its kind in England, and exhibits the noble and royal connections of the Percies ; all which vVere united in the late Dutchefs of Northumberland. We niay #lfo remark, that many fine profpects may be feen from the leads at the top of the houfe ; for they command a view of the country to the diftance of thirteen or fourteen miles, and confe- quently the greateft part of London may be feen from them. To thefe obfervations we may add, that the gardens, when view- ed from the top of the houfe, form a finer landfcape than can eafily be conceived. PETERSHAM. This is a fmall village in Surrey, near the New Park, and a little to the fouth of Richmond Hill. Here ftood a delightful feat built by the Earl of Rochefter, Lord High Treafurer in the reign of King James II. But this fine houfe was burnt down in the year 1720, fo fuddenly, that the family, who were all at home, had fcarcely time to fave their lives. By this accident, the curious collection of paintings, and the whole library, of the Earl of Clarendon, author ot the Hiftory of the Civil War, were wholly confumed. But on the ground where this houfe ftood, another was erected after one of the defigns of the Earl of Burlington, for the Earl of Harrington, who now refides in it. The front next the court is very plain, and the entrance to the houfe not very extraordinary ; but the fouth front next the garden, is bold and regular, and the apartments on that -fide chiefly defigned for ftate, are extremely elegant. The gardens were formerly crowded with plantations near the houfe j but they are now laid out in lawns of grafs. The kitchen garden, before fituated on the eaft fide of the houfe, is ren.oved out of fight; and the ground converted to an open fiope of grafs, leading up to a terrace of gieat lengih ; from which is a profpect of the river Thames, the village of Twickenham, and of all the fine feats round that part of the country. On the other fide of the terrace, is a plantation on a rifing ground ; and on the funynit of the hill is a hue pleafure houfe, which on every fide commands a profpedt of the country for many miles. Peterfham gives the title of Vifcount to the Earl of Harrington. It appears from ancient records to have been a place of- great antiquity ; and formerly it was pofiefTed of great privileges j fo that no pcrfon couid C 2 be A NEW DISPLAY OF be arretted in it, % and no officer was permitted to come through it with any perfon in his cuftody whom he had arretted elfe- yvhere. The Earl of Dyfart has a handfome feat at Ham, near this place, which was formerly in the poffeflion of the Duke of Lauderdale. It is clofe by the iiver, and King Charles II. ufed to be frequently at this pleafant feat, being much delighted with it. TWICKENHAM. On theoppofite fide of the river, in the county of Middlefex, ftands the pleafant village of Twickenham, which is particular- ly memorable for having been the refidence of Mr. Pope. That celebrated poet purchafed a houfe here in the year J7 15, and took great delight in improving his houfe and gardens. And the improvements which he made were fo elegant, that his feat be- came an object of general admiration, as well as its owner. The houfe and gardens have, however, been confiderably enlarged fince, by the late Sir William Stanhope, who purchafed them after the death of Mr. Pope. One of the chief ornaments of this agreeable retreat, was the grotto, the improvement of which was one of the favourite amufementsof Mr. Pope's declining years; fo that not long be- fore his death, by enlarging and increafing it with a number of ores and minerals of the richeft and rareft kinds, he made it one of the moft elegant and romantic retirements. Toward the beautifying of his gardens and grotto, Mr. P«pe was affifted by prefents of various kinds, from feveral of his friends, procured frem the various quarters of the globe ; and among others who made him prefents for thispurpofe, was the late Frederic Prince of Wales ; who often teftified a great regard for men of genius and learning, though they did not proftitute their talents to gratify the Court, and who always appeared to be a real friend to the liberties of the people. Onr readers will, we prefume, not be difpleafed with the following defcription which Mr. Pope himfelf gave of this ro- mantic retreat, in a letter to a friend, long before it received the laft and principal improvement. «« I have," fays he, " put the laft hand to my works of this kind, in happily fi- the feat of Richard Ben>on, Efqj formerly Governor of Fort St. George. It is a noble manfion, and is furrounded by a pleafant park and beautiful gardens, plentifully watered by a fine canal. About four miles from Romford is the parifh of Cranbam, wherein General Oglethorpe, famous for fettling the colony of Georgia, has a feat. The houfe, which is a large antfque building, is named Cranham Hall. This place is fuppofed to have derived its name of Cranham from a refort of cranes here, the hawking of which was an ancient fport. And if we were to judge from the bills of fare into which cranes came, and the price of provifions, remarked by our hiftorians, G 2 in 52 A NEW DISPLAY OF in.the time of King Edward I. we muft imagine the ftomachs of the people of that fighting age to be of a ftrange tone. For when a goofe fold for four-pence, a crane fold for twelve- pence ; and King William Rufus is faid to have turned off his major-domo, for felting N before him a crane half roafled. In the parilh of Dagenham, at the diftance of fifteen miles from London, the late Henry Muilman, Efq; had an hand- fome feat. The building is of brick, fpacious, furrounded by a park, and commanding an agreeable profpect. — Dagenham Breach was made here upwards of fifty years ago, by the Thames, which overflowed one thoufand acres of rich land ; but, after near ten years inundation, during which the works were feveral times blown up, it was at laft flopped by Captain Perry, who had been employed feveral years in the Czar of Mufcovy's works at Veronitza ; but the expence attending this amounted to more than forty thoufand pounds. B E R K I N G. This is the neareft market-town in the county of Effex to London, from which it is only eight miles diftance, and feven from Romford. The town is of conflderable extent, and chiefly inhabited by nlhermen, whofe boats, called fmacks, lie at the mouth of the river Thames, from whence their fifti is fent up to Billingfgate. The market is held on Saturdays ; and a fair is held here annually on the 2zd of October, for horfes. It was to this place that King William the Conqueror retired, foon after his coronation, till he had erected forts in London to awe the inhabitants of that city. At this place Erkenwald, the fourth bifhop of London, founded the fecond nunnery of the Saxons in England*, in the year 666. It was of the order of St. Benedict, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Ethelburga, the firft abbefs, (fifter to the founder) who, with her fucceflor, was canonized. It flood on the north fide of the church-yard. One gate, and part of the wall is ftill remaining. The manor of Berking, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, belonged to Sir William Hewett, who was Lord Mayor of London in 1589, and concerning whom the following ftory • Folkftt ne nunnery was the firft, which was founded thirty-fix years before. is THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 53 is related. Sir William lived upon London-bridge, and had an infant daughter. One of his maids playing with this child out of a window over the river Thames, by chance dropped her in, almoft beyond expectation of being faved. A young gentleman, named Edward Osborne, then apprentice to Sir William, at this calamitous accident leaped in boldly, and fa- ved the child. In memory of which deliverance, and in grati- tude, her father afterwards beftowed her in marriage to the faid Mr. Osborne, with a very great dowry. Several perfons of quality courted the young lady, and particularly the Earl of Shrewsbury. But Sir William Hewett faid, " Osborne laved " her, and Osborne mould enjoy her." This Mr. Osborne was anceftor to the prefent Duke of Leeds. The parilh of Berking is large, and fo much improved, by- lands recovered from the Thames and the river Roding, that the great and fmall tithes are computed at above 600I. a year. — A little beyond the town, towards Dagenham, flood a great old houfe, where the gunpowder plot is faid to have been con- trived. — About four miles north from Berking church, Charles Raymond, Efq; who was high fheriff for the county in 17 71, has a fine feat, named Valentines^ which has been termed a cabinet of curiofities. The houfe is one of the neateft, and beft adapted toitsnze, of any modern one in the county: its ornaments are well chofen, and the grounds belonging to it laid out with great judgment and tafte. — Bamber Gafcoyne, Efq; has alfo a good houfe about a quarter of a mile fouth-ealt from the church, named Biffrons, which commands a fine pxofpedt, and behind it is a pretty park. LITT LE ILFORD. The village of Little Ilford is three miles from Berking ; .it is but fmall, eonfifting only of one ftreet, which on Sun- days many citizens of London and others refort to for an airing ; and the little traffic occalioned thereby is the chief fupport of its inhabitants. — Little Ilford church is fmall, but neat ; and at the north-weft corner of it the Lethieuller family has erected a very neat room, about fifteen feet fquare, feparated from the church by an iron gate. It has a fire place, and every convenience to accommodate the family when they attend divine fervice. The pavement is of free-done, and beneath it is the family vault. Along the north fide of this room is a capital, fupported by columns of the Doric order ; it is afcended by two ftepsj and between the columns is a very A NEW DISPLAY OF very neat altar-tomb of black and white marble, fupporting a beautiful marble urn of various colours. This monument is in memory of John Lethieuller, Efq. There are feveral other monuments here to perfons of the fame family, but the only one that we (hall particularly mention, is that erected to the memory of Smart Lethieuller, Efq; a gentleman much diftin- guifhed for his skill in antiquities : and we (hall infert the in- fcription on his tomb, becaule it is remaikable for propriety and elegance. It is as follows : In memory of Smart Lethieuller, Efq; A Gentleman of polite Literature and elegant Tafte, An Encourager of Art and ingenious Anifts, A fludious Promoter of Literary Enquiries ; A Companion, and a Friend, of learned Men ; Judicioufly verfed in Science of Antiquity, And richly pofltfled of the curious productions of Nature. But Who modeftly defired no other Infcription onliis Tomb, than what he had made the Rule of his Life; To do juftly, To love Mercy, And to walk humbly with God. He was born Nov. 3, 1701. And deceafed without iflue Aug. 27, 1760. The moft elegant fimplieity runs through every part of this place, which is fo well calculated to infpire ferious contempla- tion, that few edifices of the kind are equal to it. L E Y T O N. This is a (haggling village by the river Lea, about fix miles from London. There are feveral handfome feats in the parifti, belonging to wealthy citizens and other gentlemen, particularly Goring-houfe, alfo called the Foreft-houfe, which is loftily fituated fronting Epping-foreft, and is the property of Samuel Bofanquet, Efq. The manor -houfe of Leyton, which is a fine feat, is the property of Thomas Blaydon, Efq. — About a quarter of a mile north-eaft from the church Thomas Oliver, Efq; has a beautiful feat, which formerly belonged to Sir Fifher Tench. It is a modern ftrufture, adorned with large and delightful gardens, with plantations, walks, groves, mounts, and canals, flocked with fifh and fowl. The feat of Henry More, Efq; near half a mile weft from the church, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 55 is alfo very agreeably fituated. The houfe is* large and hand- iome, and the gardens and decorations belonging 10 it are fuit- able. One part of this parifh is called Leyton -Jf one, which is in a pleafant and healthy fituation; and the number of inhabitants here being greatly increafed, a chapel of eafe has been built for their convenience. It is fymewhat fingular that the parifh of Walthamffow fhould have a piece of ground about fifty yards wide, which runs directly in a if raight line through this parifh. — Here feems to have been a Roman villa, or fome fummer camp or ftation ; for between the manor-houfe and the canal, where the garden now is, in digging were found old foundati- ons, with a great many Roman bricks, intermixed with others, and feveral medals. And in enlarging the horfe-pund, huge foundations were difcovered fix feet under ground ; and a large arched gate with mouldings nine or ten feet high, and five or fix broad, the top of which was alfo fix feet under ground. The walls were four feet thick or more. A very large urn, with afhesand bones, was taken up in the church-yard in digging a deep grave. Several urns, with afhes in them, have been alfo found on the fouth fide of Blind-lane, near Rockholts, in dig- ging for gravel. There are feveral very handfome monuments in Leyton church and church-yard. — That indefatigable antiquarian, Mr. John Strype, was vicar of this parifh. The famous Sir Tho- mas Roe, ambaffador to the Great Mogul, the Grand Sign'ior, and leveral European princes, in the reign of King James I. was born in this parifh. In this great man the accomphfh- ments of the fcholar, the gentleman, and the ftatefman, were eminently united. During his refidence in the Mogul's court, he zealoufly promoted the trading intereft of this kingdom, for which the Eaft India Company is indebted to him to this day. In his embaffy to the Grand Signior, he collected many valua- ble Greek and oriental manufcripts, which he prcfented to ihe Bodleian library, to which he left his valuable collection oi coins. The fine Alexandrian M.S. of the Greek Bible was procured by his means. W E S T - H A M. This parifh, which joins to Leyton, is four miles diflant from London. It includes Stratford, anciently (uthimvd Lang- thorne, and is parted from Middleiex on the fouth, and from St. Mary Stratford-le- Bow, by the river Lea, oyer which there are five bridges in this parifh. Bow bridge, which is one 56 A NEW DISPLAY OF one of them, receded the name of Bow, ox arched, bridge, be- caufe it was the fir ft arched ftone bridge in the county. The occafion of its being built is thus related. ^ he ancient road from this county to London was by Old Ford ; that is, through the ford there without a bridge. But that paffage being diffi- cult and dangerous, and many perfons lofing their lives, or be- ing thoroughly wetted, which happened to be the cafe with Maud, Queen to King Henry J. (he turned the road from Old Ford, to the place where it is now, and made the caufeways, and built the bridges at her own charge. And for the keeping of them in repair, (he gave to the abbefs of Berking certain manors, and a mill called Wiggan-mill. The parifh of Weft Ham is divided into four wards ; name- ly, Churd-ward, Stratford Langt horns, Plaijlow-ward, and that of Upton. Its fituatton is not high, nor yet very low, but in general healthy ; arid at the lower part of Plaiftow affords a beautiful view of the river Thames, and the county of Kent for many miles. — This parifli is divided from the county of Kent by the river Thames. — From its vicinity to the metropo- lis, and from the conveniency which it has of water-carriage, a number of wealthy merchants, traders, and induftrious artifts have chofen it for their refidence ; by which means of late years the buildings have been much increafed ; particularly by the addition of two fmall new-built hamlets, jf they may be thus called, on the Foreft-fide. Thefe are Maryland-point and the Gravel-pits ; one facing the road to Epping, and that to Chelmsford. Maryland-point is a clufter of houfes near Stratford ; the firft of them were erected by a merchant, who had got a fortune in that colony, from whence they took their name. — Stratford, (i. e. the Jlreet at the ford) is a very large and confiderable hamlet in this parifh ; and diftinguifhed from the other adjoining, Stratford at Bow, lying on the weft fide of Bow-bridge, in the county of Middlefex, by the appellation of Langion, or Langtborn* Plaijlow hamlet lies fouth of the church, and Upton north of the fame. About half a mile fouth-fouth-weft from the church, are the remains of Stratford-abbey, once a confiderable monaftery here, and part of the old gate of which is ftill (landing. This monaftery was founded about the year 1134, by William Montfichet, for the monks of the Ciftertion order, and dedica- ted to the Virgin Mary, and All Saints. Its demefnes in this parifh comprehend 1500 acres.- — Weft-ham church, which is dedicated to All Staints, is large j both church and chancel 3 having THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 57 ■Ifc-avinf" north and Couth ifles: there are feveral monuments in it, two of which are ancient. E A S T - H A M. The fituation of this paulh is rather low, and its foil gra- velly, except in the marines. Several wealthy citizens and other gentlemen re fide -in it, on which account it has feveral good houfesinit. A tradition prevails here, that the houfe ■called Green jireet, (late the feat of Sir Nicholas Gtr..rd, and now belonging to Mrs. Whitefide) was once thi hahiiation of an Earl of Weftrnore'and, and probably of Ludy Latimer. Tradition lilcewife fays that Queen Anne Boleyn was confined in a tower ftill ftanding near the faid hou'e. One of the Hioft remarkable particulars here is, the faring called Miller's Well, the water of which is efteemed to be extremely good, -and has not ever been known to be frozen, or to have varied \x\ its height, either in fummer or in winter. — — A part of •Kent, in the pari (fe of Woolwich, lies on this fide the river, and divides this parifh from the Thames. DEPTFORD. This is a large and populous town in th&county of Kent, about four miles and an half from London. It was anciently called Weft Greenwich ; and is faid to have received its pre- fent name, from its having a deep ford over the little river Ravenfbourn, near its influx into the Thames, where it has now a bridge. It is divided into Upper and Lower Dept- ford, which contain together two churches, feveral meeting- houfes, and about 1900 houfes. It is moft remarkable f or its noble dock, where the royal navy was formerly built and re- paired, till it was found more convenient to build the larger (hips at Woolwich, and other places, where there is a greater depth of water; but notwithstanding this, the yard iscnlarged to more than double its former dimenfions, and a vail number of hands are conftantly employed. It has a wet dock of two acres for (hips, and another of an acre and an half, with vaft quantities of timber and other ftores, and extenfive build- ings, as ftore houfes, and offices, for the ufe of the place; befidefi dwelling-houfes for thofe officers who are obliged to live upon the (pot, in order to fuperintcnd the works. Here the royal yachts are generally kept ; and near the dock is the feat of Sir John Evelyn, C»Bed Says Court, where that juftly celebrated Prince, Peter tlie Great, Czar of iVluf- covy, refided for forhe time ; and in this yard completed Vol. I. H bis 5* A NEW DISPLAY OF his knowledge and (kill in the pra&ical part of naval archi- tecture. In this town are two hofpitals, one of which was incorpo- rated by King Henry VIII. in the form of a college, for the ufe of teamen, and is commonly called Trinity Houfe of Dept- ford Strond : this contains twenty-one houfes, and is fituated rear the church. The other, called Trinity Hofpital, has thirty-eight houfes fronting the ftreet. This is a very handfome edifice, and has large gardens well kept belonging to it. Though this laft is the fineft ftru&ure, yet the other has the preference, on account of its antiquity j and as the Brethren of the Trinity hold their coporation by that houfe, they are obliged, at certain times, to meet there for bufmefs. Both thefe houfes are for decayed pilots, or matters of Ihips, or their widows ; the men being allowed twenty (hillings, and the wo- men fixteen (hillings, a month. Trinity Houfe was founded in the year 1515, by Sir Thomas Epert, Knight, commander of the great (hip Henry Grace dc Dieu, and comptroller of the Navy, for the regulation of (esmen, and the convenience of (hips and mariners on our coaft, and incorporated, as we we before obferved, by Henry VIII. who confirmed to them not only the antient rights and privileges of the company of mariners of England, but their feveral pofleffions at Deptford j which, together with the grants of Queen Elizabeth, and King Charles II. were alio con- firmed by letters patent of the firft of James II. in 1685. The mafttr, wardens, affiftants, and eldef brethren of this corporation, are by charter inverted with the power of exa- mining the matters of his Majefty's (hips, and alfo the ma- thematical children of Chrift's hofpital ; of appointing pilots to conduct (hips in and out of the river Thames ; and of amercing all fuch as (hall prefume to a lne Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, with 400 citizens in fcarlet, and with red and white hoods on, came to Blackheath, where they met that victorious Prince, King Henry the Vth, who had juft returned from France, after the famous battle of Agincourt ; and from Blackheath they con- dufted his Majefty to London. And in 1474, the Lord- Mayor and Aldermen, attended by 500 citizens, alfo met King Edward IV. here, on his return from France. It ap- pears alfo to have been ufal formerly to meet foreign Princes, 6 4 A NEW DISPLAY OF and other perfons of high rank, on Blackheath, on their arri- val in England. On the 21ft of December, 1411, Maurice, Emperor of Conftantinople, who came to folicit afliftance a^ainft the Turks, was met here with great magnificence by King Henry IV. And in 1416, the Emperor Sigifmund was met here s>nd from hence conducted in great pomp to Lon- don. In 15 18, the Lord-Admiral of France, and the Arch- bifliop of Paris, both Ambaftadois from the French King, with above 1200 attendants, were met here by the Admiral of England, and above 500 gentlemen. And the following year Cardinal Campejus, the Pope's legate, being attended hither by the gentlemen of Kent, was met by the Duke of Norfolk, and many Noblemen and Prelates of England; and here in a tent of cloth and gold, he put on his Cardinal's robes richly ermined, and from hence rode to London. And here alfo King Henry VIII. met the Princefs Ann of Geves, in very great ftate and pomp, and was foon after married to her. On the Eaft-fide of Blackheath {lands Morden College, erect- ed for the fupport of poor decayed Merchants, by Sir John Morden, Bart, a Turkey-merchant, feveral years before his death, which happened in the year 1708. It confifts of a large brick building, with two frnafl wings, ftrengthened at the corners with florae ruttic. The principal entrance, which is in the center, is decorated with Doric columns, feftoons, and a pediment on the top, over which rifes a turret, with a dial; and from the dome, which is fupported by fcrolls, rifes a ball and fane. To this entrance there is an alcent by a flight of circular fteps ; and having afcended them, and palled through this part of the building, we enter an inner fquare furrounded with piazzas. The chapel is neatly wainfeotted, and has a coftly altar-piece ; and it has a bury- ing- place adjoining, for the members of the college. The founder, by his own defire, was buried in a vault under the communion table of the chapel. Sir John Morden erected his college at a fmall diftance from his own habitation, in a place called Great Stone Field, and endowed it, after his Lady's deceafe, with his whole real, copyhold, and perfonal eftate, to the value of about 1300I. per annum. He placed in this hofpital twelve decayed Turkey merchants in his life time ; but, after his deceafe, the Lady Morden, finding that the lhare allotted her by Sir John's laft will, was not fufficient for her decent fupport, fomc parts of the eftate not anfwering fo 3 well THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. # well as had been expected, fhe was obliged to reduce the num- ber to four. But upon her death the whole eftate coming to the college, the number was encreafed, and there are at this time thirty -five poor gentlemen; and the number not being limited, it is to be encreafed as the eftate will afford ; for the building will conveniently hold forty.. The treafurer is allowed 40I. a year j and the chaplain, who reads prayers twice a day, and preaches twice every Sunday, had at firft. a falary of 30I. per annum, which the Lady Morden doubled at her death. * The prefent chaplain is the Rev. "Mr. Mofes Brown, author of the Sunday Thoughts, Pifcatory Eclogues, and other pieces. Lady Morden was in feveral refpedts a bene- fa&refs to the college, and as fhe put up her hufbands' ffatue in a niche over the gate, thetruftees have put up hers in another niche, adjoining to that of her hufband. The treafurer, chaplain, and penfioners, are obliged to reftde in the college ; and, except in cafe of ficknefs, no other perfons are to refide, live, or lodge there ; but no perfon can be admitted as a penlioner, who cannot make it appear that he is above fixty years of age. The penfioners have each 20I. a year, and at firft wore gowns, with the founders badge ; but this badge has not been worn for fome years. They have a common table in the hall to eat and drink together at meals ; and each has a convenient apartment, with a cellar. Seven Turkey merchants have the direction of this hofpital, and the nomination of the perfons to be admitted into it ; to them the treafurer is ac- countable, and whenever any of thefe die, the furviving trultees chufe others in their ftead. There are feveral noblemens and gentlemens feat- on Blackheath ; and in particular, thofe of the Earl of Chefterfield, and the Earl of Dartmouth. And not far from Morden College is a noble houfe butit by Sir Gregory Page, Bart. This is a very magnificent edifice, built in the modern tafte, confiding of a bafement, ftate, and attic ftory. The wings contain the offices and (fables, which are joined to the body of the houfe by a colonade, Itftands in the midft of a park; with a large piece of water before it. The back front has an Ionic portico of four columns, but having no pediment does not make fo agreeable a figure as might be wifhed. This is one of the fineit feats in England belonging to a private gentleman ; and the gardens, park, and country around, render it a moft delight- ful feat : yet this fine edifice was begun, raifed, and co^ vered, in the fpace of eleven months. It is adorned with many capital paintings j among which are the following;; Vql.L I Sampfon 66 A NEW DISPLAY OF Sampfon and Dalilah, by Vandyke ; Juno and Ixion, by Ru- bens ; Rubens and his miftrefs, by Rubens himfelf ; David and Abigal, by Rubens; the woman taken in Adultery, by Paul Veronefe ; Mofes and Pharaoh's daughter, by the fame ; a counfellor, his wife, and daughter, by Titian) and a Venus, Cupid, and fatyrs, by Nich. Pouflin. Two fairs are held on Blackheath annually, one on the 12th of May, and another on the nth of October, for bullocks, horfes, and toys. On the fouth fide of Blackheath, and weft of Sir Gregory Page's park, lies the pleafjnt village of Lee ; at the eaft end of which, next Lee Green, is a pleafant houfe and gardens of Henry Pelham, Efq. and in the ftreet of Lee are the houfes of the honourable Henry Roper and of David Papilion, Efq, and offeveral other perfons of fafhion ; and on the north fide of the ftreet, is an old feat of the Boone family, with the remains of a grove, and a pleafant piece of water in the ground adjoining. The ftrait road from London to Maid- ftone is through Lee village. Between the parifh of Lee, Eltham and Chiflehurft, is a hamlet called Modingham, in which is a fmall feat of Lord Apfley, now lord chancellor, with pleafant grounds about it ; the beauty of the whole is owing to his lordfhip's improvements ; and here is alfo a very old manfion which belonged to the ancient family of the Stoddards. Between the village of Lee, and the fummit of the hill, next Blackheath, are the elegant gardens and pleafure grounds belonging to the villa of the late Sir Samuel Fludyer, Bart, now, or lately inhabited by Harry Verelft, Efq. fome time governor of Bengal. The houfe is not large, but hath a very handfome apartment upon the firft floor, towards the gar- dens and pleafure grounds ; and the profpe&s from thefe rooms to Shooter's hill, Eltham, and Lee village, and into Sir Gre- gory Page's beautiful grounds and park, with the woods of Greenwich park fkirting the view to the north, are mod; pi&urefque and beautiful. The front of the houfe commands the Dulwich hill, with Lewifham church placed in the very cen- ter of the view below them. On the fummit of the hill next the heath ftands the ancient church of Lee, very fmall. The church-? yard is neat, and much ornamented with coftly monuments of itatuary and black marble. The great aftronomer Dr, Edmund THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 67 Halley lies buried here under a plain table tomb, with an in- fcription of fome length in Latin. In the church, on the north of the communion table, is a ftately arched monument of ala- bafter, fupported with columns of black marble of the Corin- thian order. The rectory houfe, and that of Thomas Edlyne, Efq; on the eminence near the church, command from every fide of them very pleating views- - , the adjacent ground being high- ly improved, and the near and diftant profpefls enriched with feats, farm-houfes, towns and villages ; the Kentifh and Dul- wich hills in the front, and Blackheath and Greenwich park behind, with an extenfive view, over London and Wellmin- Tfter, of the Middlefcx hills, which bound the horizon to the north weft. Shooter's Hill, which is near Blackheath, was formerly ufed as a butt for archers, and was in great repute among the neigh- bouring people, till King Henry the VUIth's time ; from whenc« fome fay it took its name. But others tell us, though this ap- pears lefs probable, that it received its name from the frequent robberies that were committed here. Jt was common, it is faid, for thieves to lie lurking in the woods about here, in or- der to (hoot paflengers, and then rifle them. And in the Gxth year of King Richard II. an order was made for enlarging the high-road here, according to the ftatute of King Edward the Iff. And King Henry IV. granted leave to 1 homas Chap* man, to cut down and fell the wood here, that it might not be an harbour for thieves ; and to lay out the money raifed there- by, for the improvement of the highways. And in July, 1739, a very good defign was begun to be put in execution on Shooter's Hill, a number of hands being employed in cutting a new road, wide enough for three carriages to pafs a-breaft, on the eaftern defcent of the hill, which was formerly (0 narrow, that it was impoffible for a paiTenger, if way-laid, to efcape falling into a ruffian's hands, which was the caufe of many rob- beries here. King Henry VIII. and his Queen Katharine, once came in very great fplendor, on a May-day, from Greenwich to Shoot- er's Hill ; and here they were received by 200 archers clad all in green, with one perionating Robin Hood as their captain, who firft fhewed the King the (kill of his archers in fhooting, and then leading the ladies into the wood, gave them a fine en- tertainment of venifon and wine, in green arbours, and boothg adorned with fine pageants, and all the efforts of romantic gal- lantry. 1 2 Shooter's 68 A NEW DISPLAY OF Shooter's Hill affords a moft noble and extenfive profpedf, not only into almoft all parts of -this county, but into Su flex, Surrey, and Efiex; and alfo of the cities of London and Weft- minfter, and both up and down the river Thames, where the cont nual paffage of numerous (hips, veflels, and boats of all kinds, yields a mod pleafing and delightfuljappearance. A de- fig n was fome time fince formed of building a town here, but it feems now to be laid afide. CHARLTON. This is a pleafant and well-built village, on the north fide of Blackheath. It is particularly famous for a diforderly fair held in its neighbourhood on the 1 8th of O&ober, St. Luke's Day ; when the mob, who wear horns on their heads, ufed to take all kind of liberties, and the lewd and vulgar women who attended there gave a loofe to all manner of indecency ; but thefe irregularities have of late years been much reftrained. This is called Horn Fair, and there are fold at it rams horns, horn toys, and wares of all forts. Of this whimfical fair, a vulgar tradition gives the following origin. It is faid that King John, who had a palace at Eltham, in this neigh- bourhood, being out a hunting near Charlton, which was then a mean hamlet, was feparated from his attendants j when en- tering a cottage, he found the miftrefs of it alone, who being handfome, the King became enamoured of her, and as fhe was not the moft modeft of her fex, he found means to debauch her. But, in the mean time, her hufband came in, and caught them in the facSt ; and threatening to kill them both, the King Was forced to difcover himfelf, and to purchafe his iafety with gold. Beildes which, he gave the hufband all the land, from thence as far as the place now called Cuckold's Point, and alfo beftowed on him the whole hamlet ; eftablifh- ing a fair, as a condition of his holding his new demefne. in which horns were both to be fold and worn. A fermon is preached on the fair day in the church : which is one of the hanufomeft in the county. It was beautified and repaired by Sir Adam Newton, Bart, who was tutor to King James the Fit ft's fon, Prince Henry : this manor being granted by this monarch to that gentleman. At the entrance of the village ftands the antient Manor-Houfe built by Sir Adam Newton. The two laft Earls of Egmont inhabited this manfion fome years ago; but it is now in the poiTeflion of Mr. Jones, who mirried the heirefs of it. It is a ftately Gothic ftructure, with four turrets on the top j the court before the houfe is THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 69 fpacious ; and there are two large Gothic piers to the g tes ; and on the outfide of the wall is a long row of fome of the oldeft cyprefs trees in England. Behind the houfe are large gardens, and beyond thefe a fmall park, which joins to Wool- wich common. WOOLWICH. This is a market-town in Kent, about nine miles from London,, and three from Greenwich, fituated on the banks of the river Thames, and wholly taken up by, and in a manner raifed from, the yards and docks creeled there for the naval fervice. In the reign of King Edward I. Woolwich was in the poiTeflion of Gilbert de Marifco ; and he held it, as half a Knight's fee, of Warren de Monchenfie, Baron of Swanf- combe. But Queen Elizabeth, when the bufinefs of the navy increafed, built here larger (hips than were ufually employed before ; new docks and launches were erected, and places pre- pared for building and repairing mips of the largeft fize ; be- caufe here was a greater depth of water, and a freer channel, than at Deptford. This is reckoned the mother-dock of the royal navy, and is faid to have furnifhed as many £hips of war as any two docks in England. All the buildings and yards belonging to the dock, are en- compafTed with an high wall, and are very fpacious and con- venient, and fo prodigioufly full of all forts of ftores, of tim- ber, plank, malts, pitch, tar, and other naval provifions, as can hardly be conceived. Befides the building-yard, here is a large rope-walk, where the biggeft cables are made for men of war ; and on the Eaft, or lower part of the town, is the Gun- yard, commonly called, the Warren, or the Gun Park ; where there is a vaft quantity of cannon of all forts, for the fhips of war, every fhip's guns a-part, heavy cannon for baiteries, and mortars of all forts and fizes ; infomuch that here have been laid up at one time, between feven and eight thoufand pieces of ordinance, befides mortars and fhells, almoft beyond num- ber. Here is alfo the houfe where the firemen and engineers prepare their fire-works, and charge bombs, carcalfes, and grenadoes, for the public fervice. The town has been of late years much enlarged and beau- tified, feveral fine docks, rope yards, and capacious magazines added ; and the royal foundery for cannon repaired and im- proved. The regiment of the royal train of artillery com- monly lies here ; and is an academy for in {fruiting them in the art of gunnery. The Thames is here near a mile over at 7 o A NEW DISPLAY OF at hi^h water, and the water fait upon the flood ; and as the channel lies itrait Eaft and Weft for about three miles, the tide runs very ftrong, and the river is entirely free from (hoals and fands, and has feven or eight fathom water ; fo that the iargeft fhips may ride herewith fafety, even at low water. The parim-church of Woolwich is one of the fifty new chur- ches, and is a very handfome edifice. A weekly market is kept in this town on Fridays. — There is a fortification near Woolwich, on the river Ravenfbourn, the arae of which is enclofed with treble ramparts and ditches, very high and deep, near two miles in compafs 3 which is fuppofed to be a work of the Romans. Between Woolwich and Dartford is a village named Erith^ fituated on the banks of the Thames. And on the brow of a hill near this place, is a very agreeable feat, belonging to Sir Sampfon [Gideon, Bart. It is called Belvedere House, and commands a vaft extent of a fine country many miles be- yond the Thames, which is about a mile and an half diftant. This river and its navigation add greatly to the beauty of this fcene, which exhibits to the eye of the fpe&ator a molt pleafing and delightful landfcape. The innumerable mips employed in the imrnenfe trade of London, are beheld continually failing up and down the river. On the other fide are profpe&s not lefs beautiful, though of another kind. The proprietor of this feat has very judiciouily laid out his grounds, and made many beautiful viftas. The houfe is but fmall, though an ad- dition has been made of a very noble room ; this and two others are finely furniflied with a valuable collection of pic- tures by the greateft matters ; among which are the following: a portrait of Sir John Gage, by Hans Holbein ; St. Catherine, by Leonardo da Vinci ; Rembrandt painting an old woman, by himfelf ; Snyders with his wife and child, by Rubens ; Boors at cards, by Teniers ; the Marriage in Cana of Galilee, by Paul Veroncfe j the genealogy of Chrift, by Albert Durer ; Herod confulting the wife men, by Rembrandt j and Mars and Venus, by Paul Veronefe. DARTFORD. This is an handfome large town, fixteen miles from London. But it is more properly called Darentford, from its being fitua- ted on the river Darent, which runs through it, and at a fmall diftance falls into the Thames. On this river the firft paper- mill in England was erected by Sir John Spilman, who ob- tained THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 71 tained a patent, and 200I. a year from K. Charles J. to ena- ble him to carry on that manufacture : and on this river was alfo the firft mill for flitting iron bars for making wire. The town is full of inns and other public houfes, on account of its being a great thoroughfare to Canterbury and Dover. Here is a harbour for barges, and the town is finely watered by two or three good fprings. King Edward III. had a general tour- nament performed here by his Nobles, and alfo here founded a convent, whofe Abbefs and Nuns were, for the moft part, of the nobleft families in this lcindorn ; and this convent King Henry VIII. turned into a palace. King Henry VI. founded an alms-houfe here for five poor decripid men. There is a market here on Saturdays, which is generally well iiored with corn, and other proviiions ; and much frequented by corn- chandlers and meal-men. Here is alfo an annual fair on the 2d of Auguft for horfes and bullocks. There is a large gun- powder mill here ; and it is very remarkable, that though it has been blown up four times, between the years 1730 and 1738, yet no one ever received any perfonal damage by thefe misfortunes. This town gives the title of Vifcount to the Earl of Jerfey. Crayford is a fmall town near Dartford, which obtained Its name from its having anciently a ford over the river Cray, or Crouch, a little above its influx into the Thames. This place is famous for a battle fought near it, between the Britons and Saxons, commanded by Hengift, A. D. 457, in which the Bri- tons were overthrown. In the adjacent heath and fields, are feveral caves, fuppofed to have been formed by the Saxons as places of fecurity and fhelter for their wives, children, and ef- fects, during their wars with the Britons. There are alfo feveral villages in Kent, which take their names from the fmall river Cray, on the banks of which they are fituated. This ftream rifes a little to the fouth-weft of St. Mary Cray, runs by that town, and palling by Paul's Cray, Foot's Cray, and North Cray, runs into the Darent, near its conflux with the Thames at Dartford creek, oppofite to Pur- fleet. The principal of thefe places is St. MaTy Cray, about which are many woods of Birch, from which the broom-mak- ers in Kent-ftreet, Southwark, are fupplied. At Foot's Cray, which is about twelve miles from London, $Ar. Harene has a very fine feat, which was built by the late JSouchier Cleeve, Efq; after a defign of Palladio, of the Ionic order, 72 A NEW DISPLAY OF order, and is very elegant. The original defign had four por- ticos, three of which are filled up in order to gain more room. The hall is octagonal, and has a gallery round which conveys you to the bed-chambers. It is enlightened from the top, and is very beautiful. The edifice is built of ftone, but the offices, which are on each fide at fome diftance, are brick. The houfe ftands on a rifing ground, with a gradual defcent from it till you come to the water, which from the houfe appears to be a fmall river gliding dong through the whole length of the ground : and in that part of the water which is oppolite to the hcxrfe, there is a fine cafcade conftantly flowing out of it. But this water, which appears to be fuch a pretty natural ftream, and which has fo pleating an effect, is in reality artificial, and is brought from the river Cray, which runs juft by. When the canal or cut, which is made through the ground to receive the water from the river, is full, it forms the cafcade before the houfe. by flowing over in that place, and the furplus water be- ing inttantly buried in the ground, is again conveyed under this cut or canal to the main ftream. The chief beauty of the ground about the houfe confifts in its fimplicity, it being entirely without ornament, and the whole of it a kind of lawn, having little betides the plain turf. The fituation is pleafant, and the profpeel from the houfe very good. The difpofition of the 100ms within the houfe appears to be very convenient, and the feveral apartments are elegantly finifhed. The gallery, which extends the whole length of the North front of the houfe, is a very grand room, and is filled with pictures by the moft emi- nent matters. Near the road from Dartford (of which we have lately Tpoken) to Gravefend, is a large common called Dartford Brink, where Edward III. held a folemn tournament in the year 1 33 1. The conteft between the families of York and Lan- cafter began here, when Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, &c. A. D. 1452, brought together on this fpot an army of ten thoufand men. At prefent it is the theatre of more peaceful fcenes, as appears by the booths erecled on a part of it, in which the fpectators behold the great cricket-matches that are played on this agreeable fpot. About half a mile to the left of the road, between Dartford and Gravefend, is the venerable church of Stone, which has in it feveral ancient monuments. The manfion called Stone-caftle is to the right of the road : the ancient ftru&ure is gone to ruins, and a modern building erected in its place, which is now m THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 73 now the habitation of John Talbot, Efq. Greenhithe is a romantic fituation on the bank of the Thames ; on the left, are a number of large pits, from which are (hipped innumerable tons of chalk and lime. Beyond the eighteenth mile ftone, on the left hand, is the feat of the late John Calcrafr, Efq. one of the reprefentatives of the city of Rochefter. The houfe is very convenient, and the gardens beautifully romantic: from a fpacious and elegant room at the weft end of the houfe, as well as from various pares of the gardens, the eye is entertained with views of the river, and the whole EfTex more, that are perfedlly enchant- ing : and upon the whole it is one of the moft delightful fpots on the bank of the Thames. The country about Greenhithe and Swanfcomb is famous for being the rendezvous of the Danifti free-booters, who drew their fleet into the inlet or rivulet that formerly was pretty deep between the hills, on which Northfleet and Swanfcomb are lituated : the latter place derives its name from a captain of thofe barbarians, called Swein's camp. There remain ftill feveral fmall hills caft up by thefe free-booters, and called fconces, being ftations for a fmall number of men employed as centinels, when the camp was here. — Swanfcomb is alfo faid to be the place, where the Kentifti men, ftieltered with boughs in their hands like a moving wood, furprized William the Conqueror, and, throwing down their boughs, threatened battle, if they had not their ancient cuftoms and franchifes ; which he thereupon granted them.— There is a fair held here on JVbit- Tuefday. The afcent from this valley to Northfleet is lately made very eafy, and much improved. Between the road and the Thames is the feat of Thomas Chiffinch, Efq. pleafmtly fitua'ed. — The village of Northfleet is on an eminence near Gravefend, and is very ancient, for it is found recorded in Domefday book. The church contains feveral ancient monuments. GRAVESEND. This town, which is twenty-two miles from London, is a flourifhing and populous place ; but the ftreets are narrow, and the pavement bad, Gravefend has changed its fituation fince the great increafe of trade in this nation, and approached nearer the river, as the chief fupport of .its inhabitants. It was incorporated, together with Milton, which is at a fmall diftance from hence, in the 10th year of Queen Elizabeth's Vol. I. K reign, 74 A NEW DISPLAY OF reign, by the name of the port-reeve, (which has been changed to that of Mayor) jurats, and inhabitants of the towns of Gravefend and Milton. Gravefend is fituated on the river Thames, oppofite to Tilbury Fort, and is a vaft thoroughfare between London and Dover. Here is feated one of the block- houfes for fecuring the paffage of the Thames up to London ; and this being the ufual landing place for all ftrangers and feamen, occafmns a great refort of all degrees of people j for whofe ac- commodation there are held here two large weekly markets, on Wednefdays and Saturdays, well ftored with all forts of pro- vifions. Here all outward bound fliips muft flop and come to an anchor, when a fearcher of the cuftoms comes on board, and looks after the feveral cockets, which contain the entries of the ieveral parts of the cargo, if of divers forts ;• and this is called Charing. in the reign of King Richard II. this town was burnt and plundered by the French ; who, to make reprifals upon the Englifh, for the ravage and plunder made in France by the Englifh army, under the Lord Nevil, came up the Thames with their mips, and burnt and plundered this and feveral other towns, and carried away many of the inhabitants. But to enable the* town of Gravefend to recover this lofs, the Abbot of St. Mary le Grace, on Tower-hill, whom King Kichard had granted a manor belonging to Gravefend, obtained that the inhabitants of Gravefend and Milton mould have the fole privilege of carrying paffengers by water from hence to London, at 2d. a head, or 4s. the whole fare; but the fare is now raifed to 9d. a head in the tilt boat, and is. in the wherry. The former muft not take in above forty paffengers, and the latter no more than ten. The watermens company are by adl: of Parliament obliged to provide officers at Billingfgate and at Gravefend, who at every time of high water, by night and day, are at their refpe£tive places to ring publickly a bell fet up for that purpofe, for fifteen minutes, to give notice to the tilt-boats and wherries to put off; and coaches ply at Gravefend at the landing of people from London, to carry them to Rochefter. Giavcfend being burnt down in the year 1727, the Par- liament in 1731, granted 5000I. for rebuilding its church, which flood near the high road, but is now nearer the river, and is a new and elegant building. Here is a very hand- fome charitable foundation, Mr. Henry Pinnock having in 1624, given twenty-one dwelling houfes, and a houfe for a matter- weaver to employ the poor : and a good eftate is THE BEAtfTIES OF ENGLAND. alfo fettled for repairs. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the Lord-mayor, aldermen, and companies of the city of London, were ordered by her Majefty to receive all eminent ftrangers and foreign ambafladors at Gravefend, in their formalities, and fo to attend them up to London in their barges, if they came by water. If they came by J and, they met t hem at Shooter's Hill, or on Blackheath, on horfe-back. Within a few years paft, great improvements have been made itt the lands near this town, by turning them into kitchen gardens, with the produce of which Gravefend not only fupplies the neighbouring places For feveral miles round, but alfo fends great quantities to the London markets. There are two annual fairs held here, one on the 23d of April, and the other on the 24th of October, for borfes, cloathes, toys, and other goods. Tilbury Fort, which is in the county -of Eflex, oppofite to Gravefend, is a regular fortification, planned by Sir Martin Beckman, chief engineer to Charles II. with baftions, the largeft of any in England. It has a double moat ; the innermoft of which is 180 feet broad, with a g;ood counterfcarp, a covered way, ravelins and tenailles, and a platform, on which 106 cannon are placed, from 24 to 46 pounders each, befides {mailer ones planted between them, and the baftions and -curtains, alfo planted with guns ; and here is a high tower, called the Block Houfe, which is faid to have been built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Oji the land fide are two redoubts of brick ; and there it is able to lay the whole level under water. The four proconfullar ways made in Britain by the Romans croiTed each other here. Great part of the land in this level, which is formed oif thofe unhealthy marfhes, called the Three Hundreds , is held by the farmers, cowkeepers, and grazing butchers of London, who generally Itock them with Lincoln- shire and Leicefterfhire weathers, which they buy in Smiths field, in. September and October, and feed them here till Chrift- mas or Candlemas j and this is what the butchers call righ£ Marfh mutton. BROMLEY. This is a fmall town, fituated on the river Ravenfbourn, in Kent, at the distance of ten miles from London. The Bifhop of Rochefter has a palace here. King Edgar is faid .to have given this manor to the Bifhops of that fee in the K 2 year 7 6 A NEW DISPLAY OF year 955. Here is an Hofpital ere&ec' by Dr. Warner, Bifhop of Rochefter, in the reign of King Gharles II. for twenty poor Clergymen's widows, with an allowance of 20I. a year each, and 50I. a year to the chaplain. There is a mineral fpring here, the water of which has been found, by a chemical analyhs, to contain the fame qualities as the Tunbridge water, in a greater degree. A market is kept here every Thurlday, and two annual fairs, one on the 3d of February, and the other on the 5th of Auguft, for hoifes, bullocks, fheep, and hogs. Chefilhurft) or Chijlehurjl, which is about three miles from Bromley, is famous for being the retirement of our celebra- ted Camden, who refided here for fevera] years, and here com- pofed the greateft part of the Annals of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. He died here in 1623, but his body was carried to London, and buried in Weftminfter-abbey. At this place alfo that great ftatefman. Sir Francis Walfingham, was born. E L T H A M. This is a pleafant town, feven miles from London, in the midway between Bromley and the Thames. It is full of good houfes, and fome families of rich citizens inhabit here. There was formerly a royal palace here, which fome fay was built by Anthony Beck, Bifhop of Durham, who beitowed it upon Queen Eleanor, the wife of Edward I. but others fay there was formerly a royal palace here before that time. However, King Edward II. conftantly refided in this palace, and his fon being born here, was on that account called John Eltham. The palace here was much enlarged by the fucceeding Kings, who when the court was kept at Greenwich, often retired hither. There are, however, no traces of the palace now remaining," Here are two charity fchools. The feat of Sir John Shaw is at a fmall diftance from Eltham. L E W I S H A M. This is a pleafant village upon the Tunbridge road, near three miles from Eltham, and fouth weft of Blackheath; and a little beyond the five mile ftone upon that road, on the eaft of the village, lie the pleafant gardens of Mr. Blackwel, banker : they take in the valley, and the hill above it, to which the afcent is through a beautiful fhrubbery ; and from THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 77 the fumcnit of the hill you command a very rich profpecl: on all fides, with the public Tunbridge road at a quarter of a mile diftance in the bottom. Upon the declivity of Blackheath, next Lewifham, is the free fchool, for the benefit of feveral parifhes in the hundred of Blackheath. It is fituated upon a very healthy fpot. It is now, and hath long fince been a confiderable board- ing fchool, preferving at the fame time the original institution. It was founded in the laft century by Abraham Colfe, vicar of Lewifham, who bequeathed other charities to the parifh of Lewifham. D U L W I C H. This is a very pleafant village in Surry, on the borders of Kent, five miles from London, in which and about the neigh- bourhood are many very agreeable country houfes. Here arc fome very fine profpe&s, efpecially near the houfe of entertain- ment called the Green Man. In particular, the fine walk op- pofite to this houfe, where from under a tree diftinguifhed by the name of the Oak of Honour •, you have a view as in a fine piece of painting, of the houfes as well as churches, and other public edifices, from Putney Down to Chelfea, with all the adjacent villages, together with Weftminfter, London, Dept- ford, and Greenwich, and over the metropolis, as far as High- gate and Hampftead. Dulwich is noted for the medicinal waters in its neighbour- hood, called Sydenham Wells ; but more particularly for its college. This was founded and endowed in 161 9, by Mr. William Alleyn, who named it, The college of God's gift. This gentle- man was a comedian, and a principal a&or in many of Shake- fpeare's plays ; and the caufe which induced him to found this college is faid to have been the following. He was once perfon- ating the devil, in fome theatrical exhibition ; and on this occa- fion, we are told, he was fo much terrified, at the opinion of his feeing a real devil upon the ftage, that he from that mo- ment quitted the theatre, devoted the remainder of his life to religious exercifes, and formed the refolution of founding this col- lege. But the whole of this tale appears to be without foundation; and there is great reafon to believe, that Mr. Alleyn was induced to the erection of this charitable foundation by much better and more rational motives. However, this college was founded for a matter and warden, who were always to be A NEW DISPLAY OF of the name of Alley n, or Allen; with four fellows, three of whom were to be divines, and the fourth an organift j and for fix poor men, as many poor women, and twelve poor boys, to be educated in the college by one of the fellows as fchool- mafter, and by another as ufher. In this original endowment^ he excluded all future benefactions to it, and conftituted for vifitors the church-wardens of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, St. Saviour's, Southwark, and St. Botolph, Bifhopfgate ; who, upon any difagreement among them, were to appeal to the archbifhop of Canterbury, before whom all the members were to be fworn at their admiflion. To this college belongs a chapel, in which the founder himfelf, who was feveral years mafter, lies buried. The mafter of this college is lord of the manor, for a confiderabe extent of ground, and enjoys all the affluence and eafe of the' Prior of a monaftery. Both he and the Warden, muft be unmarried, and are for ever debarred the privilege of en- tering that ftate, on pain of being excluded the college; but as the Warden always fucceeds upon the death of the Mafter, great intereft is conftantly made, by the unmar- ried men of the name of Allen, to obtain the poft of Warden. The original edifice is in the old tafte ; but part of it has been lately pulled down, and rebuilt with greater elegance, out of what has been faved from the produce of the eftate. The Matter's rooms are richly adorned with very noble oid furniture, which he is obliged to purchafe on his entering into that ftation ; and for his ufe there is a library, to which every Mafter generally adds a number of books. The college is alfo accommodated with a very pleafant garden, adorned with walks, and a great profufion of fruit trees and flowers. It appears that Mr. Alleyn, the founder of this college, was one of the beft actors of the age in which he lived ; and is celebrated by Ben Jonfon as fuperior to the ancient Rofcius, He was mafter of the Fortune play-houfe near Whitecrofs- ftreet, in London, which was erected by himfelf. He is faid to have been diftinguifhed by his moral qualifies as a . man, as well as by his abilities in his profeffion. Befides being a player himfelf, and mafter of a play-houfe, he was. alfo keeper of the King's wild beafts, or mafter of the royal bear garden. But after the erection of this college, it is ob- ferved by an old writer, that « this famous man w as fo e - *' qually mingled with humility and charity, that he became *« his THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 79. " his own penfioner ; humbly fubmitting himfelf to that pro- " portion of diet and cloathes, which he had bellowed on «« others." There is a fair held at Dulwich on the 25th and 26th of May for toys. — Not far from hence is Norwood, which ufed to be noted for the refidence cf certain gypfies here, to whom many credulous perfons reforted for the purpofe of having their fortunes told. Stretbam is a village in this neighbourhood, at the diftance of fix miles fouth weft of London, and three miles to the north of Croydon, which ufed to be much frequented for its medicinal waters. It has a chatity-fchool, and a feat belonging to the Duke of Bedford, who is Lord of the manor. CROYDON. This is a large and populous town in Surry, fituated on the edge of Banfted Downs, ten miles aud a half from London. 'Tis faid there was once a royal palace in this place, which was given with the manor to the Archbiftiops of Canterbury, who converted it into a palace for themfelvesj but is now much de- cayed. Archbifhop Whitgift founded an hofpital here, which he endowed with farms for the fupport of a warden, and twenty- eight men and women, decayed houfe keepers of Croyden and Lambeth, with a fchool for ten boys, and as many girls, with 20I. a year, and a houfe for the mafter, who muft be a clergy- man. The church, which is efteemed the fineft and largeft in the county, has feveral ftately monuments, particularly one for Archbifhop Grindall, another for Archbifhop Sheldon, and ano- ther for Francis Tyrell, a grocer in London, who generoufly gave 200I. to build the market houfe. Here is a great corn market on Saturdays, chiefly for oats and oatmeal for the fervice of London ; and the arijacent hills being well covered with wood, great quantifies of charcoal are made and fent to this city. — Croydon has two fairs, held on the 5th of July, and the id of October, for horfes, bullocks, deep, and toys. Beddington, which is at a little diftance from Croydon, \ is the feat and manor of the ancient family of the Carews. It is a noble edifice ; but the wings are too deep for the body of the houfe ; for they fhould either have been placed at a greater 8o A NEW DISPLAY OF greater diftance, or not have been fo long. The cou rt before them is fine, as is the canal in the park, which lies before this court, and has a river running through it. All the flat part of the park is taken up with very fine gardens, which extend in villas two or three miles. It is faid that the orange-trees, which formerly grew here in the open air, have been killed by too great care to preferve them. They had originally only moving houfes, to ftielter them in winter, from the feverity of the weather; but fome years ago, the owner was at the expence of erecting a fine green-houfe, with fafhes in front, fince which time the trees began to decay, though they flood here in the open ground above an hundred years, and annually produced great quantities of fruit. The pleafure houfe, which was built by Sir Francis Carew, has the famous Spanifh Armada painted on the top of it, and under it is a cold bath. The church is a beautiful fmall Gothic pile, built of ftone, in the north and fouth ifles of which are feveral flails after the manner of cathedrals : and here is alfo two charity fchools, one for boys, and the other for girls. Carjhalton^ which is on the fouth-weft fide of Croydon, near Banfled-downs, lies among innumerable fprings which all together form a river in the very flreet of the town, and joining other fprings that flow from Croydon and Beddington, form one ftream called the Wandell. Though this village is fituated among fprings, it is built upon firm chalk, and one of the moft beauti- ful fpots on that fide of London, on which account it has many fine houfes belonging to the citizens of London, fome of them built with fuch grandeur and expence, that they might be rather taken for feats of the nobility, than the country houfes of citizens and merchants. Mr. Scawen intended to build a mag- nificent houfe here in a fine park which is walled round, and vaft quantities of ftone and other materials were collected by him for this purpofe ; but the defign was never carried into exe- cution. Here alfo Dr. RatclifF built a very fine houfe, which afterwards belonged to Sir John Fellows, who added gardens and curious water works. It is at length pafled into the pofleflion of the Lord Hardwicke, who fold it to the late William Mitchell, Efq. In levelling thcroad near this place, to make an avenue to a gentleman's feat, a large quantity of human bones was found. Woodcote, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 81 Woodcote y or Wcodcote-warren y which is three miles fouth- weft of Croydon, is thought to have been anciently a city. Dr. Gale, who narrowly examined it, tells us, that there are found much rubbifh of buildings, the foundations of houfes, plain marks of ftreets and lanes, fquared ftones, many wells, at fmall diftances from each other, befides other marks of an- tiquity. Camden takes this to have been the Noviomagus ot Ptolemy ; becaufe it agrees exadly with the diftances from Lon- don and other places. BLECHINGLEY. This is a fmall antient parliamentary borough by prefcrip- tion, having had that privilege ever fince parliaments had a be- ing ; yet has no market, but has fairs on June ji, and No- vember 2. It is twenty miles from London. The town ftands on a hill, on the fide of Holmfdale, with a fine profpe£t as far as the South Downs and Suflex. Here is an alms-houfe and a free-fchool. It has an handfome church, which had a fpire, but in 1608 was confumed by lightning, and all the bells melted. Godjione, which is a village two miles north-eaft of B!e- chingley, is famous for its quarries of excellent ftone. A part of this village lies in the road leading to Eaft-Grinftead j but the other part, as well as the church, ftands upon an eminence at a confiderable diftance. Tandridge, which is a village three miles eaft of Ble- chingley, was once fo confiderable as to give name to the hun- dred in which it ftands, and had a priory of black canons, of the order of St. Auguftine, founded by Odo de Dammartin, in the reign of King Richard I. It was appointed for three priefts, and for the fupport and maintenance of the fick and poor, and the hofpitable entertainment of travellers. G A T T O N. This place is eighteen miles from London, and was for- merly a confiderable town, but it has at prefent no market, though it fends two members to parliament. It is a very ancient place, and fome are of opinion that it was a Roman ftation, from the coins and other antiquities that have been difcovered here: and where the manor- houfe ftands, it is faid there was once a caftle. The river Mole rifes in this parifh, which is alfo noted for a quarry of white free ftone, which L is A NEW DISPLAY OF is foft, and endures the fire admirably well in winter, but nei- ther fun nor air. 'Tis much ufed by chymifts, bakers, and glufs houfes, B A N S T E D. This is a village noted for abundance of walnut trees, but more for its neighbouring Downs, one of the tnoft delightful fpots in England. It is particularly rendered fo by (he agree- able (eats around it} and by its fine carpet- ground, covered with fliort herbage, perfumed with thyme and juniper, which makes the mutton of this tracT:, though fmall, remarkably fweet. There is here a fine profpe& of feveral counties on both fides the Thames, including a view of the Royal Palaces of Windfor, Hampton Court, and alfo of London, from the Tower to Weftminfter, it bein^ a trail of no lefs than thirty milts, extending from Croydon to Farnham, though under difU ferent appellations. There is a four mile courfe here* which,, in the feafon of horfe races, is much frequented, as all Banfted Downs are, throughout the whole fummer, for their whole- fbme air. EPSOM. This is a well-built and handfome town in Surrey, fixteen miles from London. It abounds with many genteel houfes* which are principally the retreats of the merchants and citizens of London. It is extremely plea.fant, and lies open to Ban- fted Downs. Its mineral waters, which come from a fpring near Afhted, were difcovered in 1618, and foon became ex- tremely famous ; but though they are not impaired in virtue* they are far from, being in the fame repute as formerly ; how- ever, the fait made of them is valued all, over Europe. It has. been obferved, that there are here fo many fields, meadows, or- chards, and gardens, that a ftranger would be at a lofs to know whether this was a town in a wood,, or a wood in a town. A fair is held here on. the 5th of Auguft, for toys. — In H ud few's - lane here was Epfcm-court, that ancient Saxon fear,, long fuiea converted into a farm. • Adjoining to Epfom is Durdans^ a fine feat belonging to the Earl of Guilford. About two miles from Epfom is a village named Ewell r near which a magnificent palace was erected by King Henry the Eighth, that obtained the oame of Nonfuch from its unparalleled beauty. The learned Hent- zer, a German, who wrote his Itinerarium in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, fpeaking of this palace, lays, it was built with THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 83 with an excefs of magnificence and elegance, even to often- tation. " One would imagine, fays he, that every thing in the power of architecture to perform, was employed in this work •, there are every where fo many ftatues that feem to breathe fo many miracles of confummate art, fo many cafts that rival even the perfection of Roman antiquity, that it may well claim and juftify its name of Nonfuch. The palace is fo encompafted with parks, with deer, with delightful gardens, groves, and walks lb embrowned by trees, that it feems to be a place pitched upon by Fleafure herfelf, to dwell in along with Health, In the pleafure gardens, are many columns and pyramids of marble, and two fountains vvf. ch fpout water : one has a pyramid, upon which are perched Tmall birds (hat ftream water out of their bills. In the grove of Diana is the other fountain, where A&eon is reprefented ferried into a flag, as he was fprinkled by the Goddefs and her nymphs. There is, beftdesj another marble pyramid, filled with donee .hd pipes, which fpunkle all that come within their reach." SiicTi is t he defcription which Hentzer gave of this palace and gart/ert4 ; but the palace was afterwards ftiffcred to fall to decay ; and King Charles the Second giving it to oneof his miftrefles, the Duchefsof Cleveland, flic pulled it down and fold ihe fh tie- rials, with which a new houfe was built by the E^rl of Berke- ley, and which afterwards came into poffeflion of the Earl of Guilford, and was named Duidans, of which we have julfc made mention* Mitcbam-, which is nine miles from London, is a Well- in- habited village, much frequented by the citizens of Lon- don. Here is a fair on the 12th of Augufi, for cattle and toys. — At a little diftance from rjence arc two villages of the name of Toictivg, fituated near each other, and difthguifli- edby the epithets Upper and Lower. Upper 'Towting ffarius in the road from Southwark to Epf">m, and has an alins-houfe, founded in 1709, by the mother of Sir J ohn Bateman, Lord Mayor of London, for ux poor alms- women, to be nomina- ted by the heir of the family. This village is adorned with fe- veral fine feats belonging to gentlemen and citizens of London. Lower Towting is a mile and a half to the fouth-eaft of the former. Martin, a village about a mile fouth-wetf of Towting, is a place of great antiquity ; for here Kenulph, one of the Weft Saxon Kings, was flain in the houfe of hi-, favourite; miilrefs. Here was a magnificent abbey, founded by King L 2 Henrv A NEW DISPLAY OF Henry the Firft, for canons of the order of St. Auguftine, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The prior of this abbey fat in the Houfe of Lords, and the abbey itfelf was endowed with great privileges, and very confiderable revenues. PECKHAM. This is a pleafant village in Surrey, in the parifh of Cam- berwell. Here is the feat of the late Lord Trevor, built in the reign of King James the Second, by Sir Thomas Bond, who being deeply engaged in the pernicious fchemes of that arbitrary and imprudent prince, was obliged to leave the kingdom with him, when the houfe was plundered by the populace, and be- came forfeited to the Crown. The front of the houfe ftands to the north, with a fpacious garden before it, from which ex- tends two rows of large elms, of confiderable length, through which the Tower of London terminates the profpect. But on each fide of this avenue you have a view of London ; and the malts of veflels appearing at high water, over the trees and houfes up to Greenwich, greatly improve the profpecvt. The village of Peckham, which lies on the back fide of the gar- dens, is fhut out from the view by plantations. The kitchen garden and the walls were planted with the choiceft fruit trees from France, and an experienced gardener was fent for from Paris to have the management of them ; fo that the collection of fruit trees in this garden has been accounted one of the beft in England. After the death of the late Lord Trevor, this feat was purchafed by a private gentleman. There are alfo at Peckham feveral ether villas, and neat houfes of retirement, inhabited by the tradefmen of London, and thofe who have re- tired from bufinefs. It principally confifts of one long ftreet, and has a DifTenting meeting-houfe. Here is a fair on the 2 ift of Auguft for toys. — Peckham Ryels a village on the fouth fide of Peckham. Camberwell is a pleafant village, fituated about a mile to the northward of Peckham, and two miles from Southwark, in the road to Croydon. It has feveral pretty houfes belonging chiefly to tradefmen of London, and a fair on the 18th of Au- guft for toys. Clapham is a very agreeable village, three miles from Lon- don, and contains many pleafant houfes. There is a fmall fair held here on the 27th of Auguft. — On an hill near the road fide ftands the church, and there is an handfome fchool-houfe built by the parifh, for teaching the children of the poor of the village. THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 8s Kennington is a village near Lambeth, and is one of the eight precin&s of that par fh. Near it is Kennington Common, a fmall fpot of ground on the fide of the road to Camberwell, and about a mile and an half from London. Upon this fpot is the gallows for the county of Surrey. LAMBETH. This is a village in Surrey, fituated on the Thames, between Southwark and Batterfea. It is particularly famous for its con- taining, for feveral ages, the palace of the Archbifhop of Can- terbury. This ftrudture was originally formed by Baldwin, Archbifhop of that fee, in the year 1188 ; who firft intended to haveraifed a fuperb ftruc~tureat Hackington, near this place; but the Monks, with whom he was at variance, obtained the Pope's mandate againft it ; when, taking down what he had erected, he removed the beft of the materials to Lambeth, with which he built the palace, a college, and church, having before purchafed the ground of the Bifhop and Convent of Ro- chefter, by a fair exchange. In the year 1250, Boniface, Archbifhop of Canterbury, ha- ving, by his arrogance, rendered himfelf hateful to the citizens of London, retired, for the fecurity of his perf>n, to this pa- lace; and rinding it in a ruinous condition, within the fpace of three years rebuilt the whole north fide, the archicpifcopal apartments, the library and cloyfters, the guard chamber, the chapel, and Lollards tower. From that time this palace became the refidence of the great- eft, perfons of the church, and was foon enlarged by many ad- ditional buildings ; Cardinal Pole built the gate, which, for that time, is a noble ftru&ure. The Lollards tower, which is thus named from a room in it prepared for the imprisonment of the followers of Wickliff, the firft Engl ifh reformer, who were called Lollards, was fmilhed by Chichely, and remains a lading memorial of his cruelty, and anti-chriltian fpi; it It is a fmall room, twelve feet broad and nine long, planked with elm, and there ftill remain eight rings and ftapies, to which pious men were chained, for prefumiogto differ in opinion from that pre- late. The fpacious hall was erect-d by Juxon, and the btick edifice between the gate ;md this hall was begun by Archbifhop Sancroft, and finiflied by the immortal Tillotfon. From the prefent ftructuie being thus eretted at different periods, it is not at all furprihng that it has but little ap- pearance of uniformity j but the edifice, though old, is in moil parts 86 A NEW DISPLAY OF parts ftrong; the corners are faced with ruftic, and the top furrounded with battlements ; but the principal apartments are well proportioned, and well enlightened: the Gothic work about it is irregularly difpofed, and it is in itfelf irregular. Some of the inner rooms are too clofe and confined ; but there are many others open and pleafant in themfelves, with the ad- vantage of being convenient, and of affording very agreeable profpects. For as this palace is fituated on the banks of the Thames, it affords a fine view up and down the river, and from the higher apartments, a profpect of the country way. — The palace, with the rows of trees before it, and the church of Lambeth adjoining, when viewed from the Thames, make a very pretty picturefque appearance. In this palace is a very fine library founded in the year 1610, by Archbifhop Sancroft, who left by will all his bocks for the ufe of his fuccelTors in the archiepifcopal fee of Canter- bury. This library has been greatly increafed by the benefacti- ons of the Archbimops Abbot, Sheldon, and Tennifon, and confiftsof 617 volumes of manufcript, and above 14500 print- ed books. The chutch, which (lands by the palace, is a very antique ftructure, dedicated to St. Mary. It has a fquare tower, and both that and the body of the church, are crowned with bat- tlements. In this parifh are eight precincts, denominated the Archbifhop's, the Prince's, Vauxhall, Kennington, the Marfli, the Wall, Stockwell, and the Dean's precinct. — It is remarka- ble, that at Lambeth Wall is a fpot of ground, containing an acre and nineteen poles, named Pedlar's acre, which has be- longed to the parifh from time immemorial, and is faid to have been given by a pedlar, upon condition that his picture, •with that of his dog, be perpetually preferved in painted glafs in one of the windows of the church, which the pariihio- ners cauftd to be performed in the fouth-eaft window of the mid- dle ifle. This is a very large parifh, and contains many hundred houfes. There is a fchool here, which was founded by Rich- ard Laurence, citizen and merchant of London, in the year 3661, for educating twenty poor children of the Marfli and Wall liberties of this parifh, for which purpofe he endowed it with 35I. per ann. And by the road fide, from Vauxhall to Kingston, is an alms-houfe for feven poor women, built in 16 1 8 by Caron the Dutch Ambafiador, who refided in Eng- land. 28 years. THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLffNTT. 87 In the Marfti and St. George's Fields, ditches were made when London was befieged by the Danifh King Canute, who turned the courfe of the Thames from about the King's barge- houfe to a place beyond the bridge ; and it was here that Prince died in his cups. Vauxhall is one of the eight precindte of the parifh of Lambeth ; but is particularly famous for the pfeafantnefs of the gardens, which have been for many years converted into a place of elegant entertainment, during the fpring and fummer fea- fons. I hey were the beft of the kind perhaps in the v/orld : in the midft of the garden is a fupetb orcheftra, containing a fine organ, and a band of mufic, with fome of the beft voices, and the feats or boxes are difpafed to the /beft advantage with re- fpecl to hearing the mufic. In moft of the boxes are pi^ures painted from the defigns of Mr. Hayman, on fubje&s admirably adapted to the place. But there are in the grand pavilion four pictures of his own hand, from the hiftorical plays of Shake- fpeare, that are univerfaily admired for the deffgn, colouring, and expreffion. And in the ball- room there are fome very fine hiftorical pieces by Mr, Hayman, chiefly relating to the fuc- cefles of the late war. The trees in thefe gardens are fcattered hqre with a pleafing confufion. At fome diftance are fever;:l noble viftas of very tall trees, where the fpaces between eacn are filled up with neat hedges, and on the infide are planted flowers and fweet fmelling fhrubs. Some of thefe viftas termi- nate in a view of ruins, and others in a profpeft of the adjacent country, and fome are adorned with the painted representation of triumphal arches. -There are here alio feveraj, ftatues, and in particular a good one in marble by Mr. Roubiliac, of the late Mr. Handel, playing on a lyie in the character of Orpheus. As Ranelagh has its rotunda, fo here alio is a rotund and ball room, finely illuminated, in which is an orcheftra with an or- gan,, where, if the weather proves rainy, the company may be fafely fheltered and entertained. Some of the principal walks have alfa lately been covered in a very elegant manner. And when it. grows dark the garden near the orcheftra is illumina- ted, almoft in an inftant, with about 1500 glals lamps, which glitter among the trees, and render it exceeding light and brilli- ant: and foon after a very extraordinary piece of m. c iinery h.ts of late been exhibited, on the infide of one of the hedges ne.tr the entrance into the viftas: by removing a curtain is fhewn a very fine landfcape illuminated by concealed lights ; in which, the i 88 A NEW DISPLAY OF the principal objects that ftrike the eyes are the cafcade or wa- terfall, and a miller's houfe. The exact appearance of water is feen flowing down a declivity, and turning the wheel of the mill: itrifesup in foam at the bottom, and then glides away. This moving picture, attended with the noife of the water, has a very pleahng and furprifing effect both on the eye and ear. Every thing is provided in thefe gardens in the moft elegant manner, for fuch company as chufe to ftay and fup here. NEWINGTON BUTTS. This is a village extending from the end of Blackman-ftreet, to Kennington Common, and is faid to have received the name of Butts, from the exercife of (hooting at Butts, much prac- tifed both here and in moft other parts of England, in the reign of Henry VIII. to fit men to ferve in the army as archers. The Drapers and Fifhmongers company have alms-houfes here. In the church-yard an handfome monument has lately been erected to the memory of Mr. Allen, a young man who was murdered in St. George's Fields by fome of the foot-guards, when they were wantonly fent out to inflicvt military execution on an unarmed mob, at the time that Mr. Wilkes was con- fined in the King's Bench Prifon. Several other perfons were infamoufly butchered at the fame time, under the pretence of fupprefling a riot; for the Miniftry rather chofe to endeavour to intimidate the people, by thefe violent methods, and thereby bring them to a tame fubmiffion to every arbitrary meafure, than to regulate their own conduct by the principles of law, and of the conftitution. BATTERSEA. This is a village in Surrey, fituated on the river Thames, four miles from London. It gives the title of baron to Lord Vif- count Bolingbroke. The manor was given to that nobleman's anceffors, together with Wandfworth, by King Charles I. and Sir Walter St. John founded a free-fchool here for twenty poor boys, and endowed it with 200I. of which the intereft was to put one or more of them apprentice ; and the lady St. John alfo gave iool. the intereft of which was likewife to put a poor boy or girl apprentice every year. The gardens about this place are noted for producing the fineft afparagus. A bridge has been lately erected from hence to Chell'ea, on the oppofue fide of the Thames. Two THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 89 Two miles to the fouth-weft of Batterfea is Wanclfworth t a village that has feveral handfome houfes belonging to the gen- try and citizens of London, and is faid tti have obtained its name from the river Wandle, which paries through it, un- der a bridge into the Thames. There are here copper- works* faid to have been firft erected by certain Dutchmen, and a fair held on Monday, Tuefday, and Wednefday, inWhitfun- week. PUTNEY. This is a village fituatedon the Thames, to the north-weft of Wandfworth, and oppofite to Fulham, to which it is joined by a bridge. Here is an old church, erected after the fame model with that of Fulham j and they are both faid to have been built by two fifters. That part of Putney which joins to the heath, commands a fine view, both up and down the river Thames ; and here the citizens of London have many pretty feats. In the church, which ffands near the Thames, are fe- veral handfome monuments, moft of them modern. In this village was born the famous Thomas Cromwell, Earl of EfTex* in the reign of King Henry the Eighth, whofe father was a blackfmith here. Fulham is a village on the other fide of the Thames, in the county of Middlefex, four miles from London. In William the Conqueror's time this was held of the King by the canons of St. Paul's i and there is an ancient houfe here, which is moated about, and belongs to the Bifhop of London. King Henry the Third often lay in it. There is a toll paid for pal- ling over the wooden bridge from hence to Putney, not only forhorfes, coaches, and all carriages, but even by foot-paflen- gers. WIMBLETON. This is a village in Surrey, three miles fouth' of Putney church, where Ethelbert King of Kent was defeated in a battle by Ceaulin the Weft Saxon^ in the year 56$. Wimbleton- houfe ftands about half a mile fouth from' the road, on Wim- bleton-common. It was built by Sir Thomas Cecil j fon of the Lord Treafurer Burleigh, in the year 1 588' ; and was af-» terwards General Lambert's, who had here the fineft Bower* garden in England, The manor of Wimbledon was purchafed by Sarah Churchill, Dutchefs Dowager of Marlborough; and is now the property of Lord Spencer, to jether with a fine feat M fhe go A NEW DISPLAY OF fhe built here, which is adorned with a grand terrace walk, that has a fine profpecl: to the fouth. Wimbleton-common or heath, which isfuppofed to be as high as Hampftead Heath, is about a mile each way, and is adorned on the fides with feveral handfome feats. Roehampton is fituated between Putney Heath and E aft- Sheen, and is one of the pleafanteft villages near London, having in it feveral fine houfes of merchants ; but they are fcattered about, fo as not to rcfemble a ftreet, or regular town. EAST-SHEEN. This is a pleafant village, fituated a little to the fouth of Mortlake, where is the fine feat of the Lord Vifcount Palmer- fton, the fucceflor of Sir William Temple. The gardens were laid out and compleated by Sir William Temple, who fpent much of his time here. This eminent man was an excellent judge of gardening, and was very fond of his garden ; in which he fomewhat refembled Epicurus, whom in this refpeft he ad- mired, and concerning whom he thus exprefles himfelf, In his Eflay on Gardening. * Epicurus (fays he) parted his life * wholly in his garden ; there he ftudied, there he exercifed, * there he taught his philofophy j and indeed, no other fort of * abode feems to contribute fo much, to both the tranquility of * mind, and indolence of body, which he made his chief ends. ' The fweetnefs of air, the pleafantnefs of fmells, the verdure * of plants, the cleannefs and lightnefs of food, his exercifes * of working or walking, but above all, the exemption from * cares and folicitude, feem equally to favour and im- * prove, both contemplation and health, the enjoyments of * fenfe and imagination, and thereby the quiet andeafe both of * body and mind.' Barnes is a village in Surrey, almoft encompafled by the Thames. It lies between Mortlake and Barn Elms, and is feven miles from London, and five from Kingfton. — MorU Iqke is fituated on the Thames, between Putney and Rich- mond, about one mile weft of Barnes. Here are two cha- rity- (chools, and a famous manufacture for weaving tapeftry hangings. ESHER, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 91 E S H E R. This is a village in Surrey, about feventeen miles from Lon- don, fituated near Walton-upon-Thames and Hampton-court, of which laft it affords a fine profpe&, as well as of the other parts of Middlefex. EJhcr Place was the feat of the lat* Henry Pelham, Efq. The houfe is a Gothic ftru&ure, built of a brownifh red brick, -with (tone facings to the doors, windows, &c. It ftands upon almoft the loweft ground belonging to it, and has the river Mole gliding clofe by it and through the grounds. This houfe was originally one of thofe built by Cardinal Wolfcy ; but the late Mr. Pelham rebuilt the whole, except the two towers in the body of the houfe, which are the fame that belonged to the old building, and the whole is rebuilt in the fame ftyleof architec- ture it was before, which uniformity is certainly better than an unnatural mixture of Gothic and modern too often pra&ifed. There is a fine fummer houfe built upon a hill on the left hand as you enter, which commands the view of the houfe, park, and country round on both fides the Thames for many miles. The park and ground in which the houfe is fituated appears quite plain and unadorned ; yet perhaps not a little art has been ufed to give it this natural and fimple appearance, which is certainly very pleafing. But in one part of it there is a pretty wildemefs laid out in walks, and planted with a variety of evergreen trees and plants, with a grotto in it, and feats in different places. The wood in the park is well difpofed, and confifts of fine oak, elm, and other trees, and the whole country round appears finely (haded with wood. The grand floor of the houfe is elegantly finifhed, and confifts of fix rooms. The great parlour is carved and gilt in a tafte fuitable to the ftyle of the houfe, with curious mar- ble chimney pieces and flab. In this room are the portraits of Mr. Pelham, Sir Robert Walpole, afterwards Earl of Or- ford, Lord Townfhend, the Duke of Rutland, the late Duke of Devonshire, and the late Duke of Grafton; a picture of Lady Catharine Pelham and her fon is over the chimney. In the drawing room over the chimney, there is a picture of King Charles II, when only eleven years old, by Vandyke. The li- brary is curioufly finifhed, and there is a good collection of books in it. CLARE- 9 2 A NEW DISPLAY OF C L A R E M O N T. This fine feat, which is a little beyond Efher, and which was the property of the late Duke of Newcadle, is now the feat of Lord Clive. The houfe was defigned and built by the late Sir John Vanburgh, in a whimfical ftyle of architecture. It was afterwards purchafed of Sir John by the late Duke of Newcaftle, who was at a great expence in improving the place. The ftrudture, though fingular, does not appear to be irregular. It is built of brick with a deal of variety in it, and of confiderable extent, but not much elevated. The Duke built a grand room for the reception of company when nu- merous, which makes the ends of the houfe not appear fimilar. The houfe has a lawn in the front, {haded on each fide with trees, and the ground behind it rifing gradually fhews the trees there alfo, fo that the houfe appears to be embowered by them, except jurt in the front; and the white fummer-houfe with four little pinnacles, one at each corner, built on the mount which gives names to the place, when viewed from before the front of the houfe, rifes up finely from behind the trees, and altogether forms a very pleafing appearance. The park in which it is fuuated is diftinguifhed by its noble woods, lawns, walks, mounts, prof- pe£b, &c. The fummer-houfe called the Belvedere, at about a mile diftance from the houfe, on that fide of the park next Eflier, affords a very beauiful and extenfive view of the country quite round, yet that from the fummer-houfe at Efher Place is perhaps no way inferior to it. C H E R T S E Y. This is a market town in Surrey, nineteen miles from London, and {lands upon the bank of the Thames, over which it has a bridge. The inhabitants trade much in malt, which h fent in barges to London. Here is an handfome free- fchool, which was eredted by Sir William Perkins, who had a feat here. There are annual fairs here on the firft Monday in Lent, and on May 3, July 26, and September 14. Here was once an abbey, by the ruins of which the ftreets are fomewhat raifed. Sir Nicholas Carew, mafter of the buck hounds to Charles the Second, built a fine houfe here with the ruins of the abbey. — This is the place to which our celebrated poet Cowley retired, in the latter part of his life, and where he ditd. And, in this retreat, as Sprat, exprefies it, ' fome few 2 ' friends THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 93 1 friends and books, a chearful heart, and an innocent con- * (cience, were his conftant companions.' WEYB RIDGE. This is a village in Surrey, four miles fouth weft of Hamp-< ton-court, which derives its name from a bridge formerly erect- ed here over the river Wey. About this village are feveral fine feats, particularly thofe of the prefent Duke of Newcaftle, and the Earl of Portmore. Oatlands is the feat of Henry, Duke of Newcaftle, and Earl of Lincoln. The park is about four miles round. The houfe is fituated about the middle of the terrace, the majeftic grandeur of which, and the beautiful landfcape which it com- mands, words cannot defcribe, nor the pencil delineate, fo as to give an adequate idea of this fine (cene. The terpentine river which you look down upon from the terrace, though artificial, appears as beautiful as it could do were it natural j and a ftranger who did not know the place would conclude it to be the Thames, in which opinion he would be confirmed by the view of Walton bridge over that river, which by a happy contrivance is made to look like a bridge over it, and clofes the profpe£t that way finely. Ham Farm is ths feat of the Earl of Portmore. The houfe is a large handfome ftrudhire, built regularly of brick, with a fine lawn before the garden front. The grounds about it con- fift of about 500 acres, 130 of which are laid out for pleafure, befides a paddock of about 60 acres. Here is a fine command of water, there being two navigable rivers, the Thames, which comes with a fine bending courfe by the fide of the terrace, and the Wey, which runs dire&ly through the grounds, and joins the 7 hamcs at the terrace. There is a fwing bridge over the Wey, which may be turned afide at pleafure, to let boats and other vefTels pafs. The Wey is navigable up to Guildford and other places. The terrace next the Thames is beautiful ; and though it lies upon a flat, there are fome good views from it, and from other parts of the gardens. This place was firft beautified by the Countefs of Dorchefter, in the reign of James II. WALTON UPON THAMES. This is a village in Surrey, fituated on the Thames, oppo- fite to Shepperton in Middlesex. It is faid that the laft men- tioned 94 A NEW DISPLAY OF iioned county once joined to this town, till about 300 years ago, the old current of the Thames was changed by an inun- dation, and acurch deftroyed by the waves. At this place is a very curious bridge over the Thames, ere£ted by the public fpirited Samuel Decker, Lfq; who lived in this town, and who applying to parliament for that pur- pofe, obtained in the year 1747, an a& to empower him to fcre£t a bridge there, and this admirable ilru&ure was completed in Auguft 1750. It confifts of only four ftone piers, between which are three large trufs arches of beams and joifts of wood, ftrongly bound together with mortifes, iron pins, and cramps j under thefe three arches the water conftantly runs; befides which are five other arches of brick work: on each fide, to render the afcent and defcent the more eafy ; but there is I'eldom water under any of them, except in great floods, and four of them on theMid- <31efex fide aie flopped up, they being on hi^h ground above the reach of the floods. The middle arch, when viewed by the river fide, affords an agreeable profpeft of the country, beautifully diverfified with wood and water, which is feen through it to a confiderable dis- tance. The prodigious compafs of this great arch to a perfon below, occafions a very uncommon fenfation of awe and fur- prize ; and his aftonifhment and attention are encreafed, when he proceeds to take notice, that all the timbers are in a falling pofition; for there is not one upright piece to bedifcovered ; and at the fame time confiders the very fmall dimenfions of the piers by which the whole is fupported. In palling oyer this bridge, when you have proceeded paft the brick- work, the vacant interftices between the timbers, yield, at every ftep, a variety of profpe&s, which, at the centre, are feen to a ftill greater advantage. But though each fide is weH fecured by the timber and rails, to the height of eight feet j yet it affords only a parapet of wide lattice work, and the aper- tures feem, even to the eye, large enough to admit the paffage of any perfon to go through, provided he climbs, or is lifted up ; and as the water is feen through every opening to a great depth below, thofe unufed to fuch views cannot approach the fide without fome apprehenfions. It would, indeed, have been eafy to have clofed thefe openings between the braces and rails with boards, but they are purpofely left open to admit a free paffage for the air, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 95 in order to keep the timbers the more found, and that the leaft decay may be the more eafily perceived and repaired. From this admirable bridge the nobility and gentry in this neighbourhood find a very agreeable benefit, efpecially as the ferries are dilatory, dangerous, and at times impafla- ble; and its being erected has caufed the roads thereabout?, in both counties, efpecially on the Surrey fide, to be greatly im- proved. , KINGSTON UPON THAMES. This is a town in Surrey, twelve miles from London, which received its name from its having been the refidence of feveral of our Saxon Kings, fome of whom were crowned on a liage in the market place. It is a populous and well built place, and in the reigns of Edward the Second and Third, fen* members to parliament. Here is a fpacious church with eight bells, in which are pictures of the Saxon Kings who were crowned here, and alfo that of King John, who gave the inhabitants of this town their firft charter. Here is alfo a wooden bridge of twen- ty arches over the Thames ; a free-fchool erected and endowed by Queen Elizabeth j an alms-houfe built in 1670 by Alderman Clive, for fix men, and as many women, and endowed with land to the value of 80I. a year; and a charity fchool for thirty boys, who are all cloathed. The fummer affizes for this county are generally held here. There is a gallery on the top of a lull here, that overlooks the town. Befides the above bridge, there is another of brick over a ftream, that flows from a fpring which rifes four miles above the town, and within the diftance of a bow (hot from its fource, forms a brook that drives two mills. Here is a good market for corn, and the town carries on a con- fiderable trade. Hircomb's Place here was one of the houfes of Richard I^evil, Earl ot Warwick, who was furnamed the King-T»akcr y becaufe he placed Edward the Fourth upon the throne, and afterwards, dethroning him again, reftored Henry the Sixth. This famous nobleman, in fortune, power, and influence, was the moft confiderable fubjeft who ever appeared in England. In the magnificence of his living, and his unbounded^ hoi- Vitality, he excelled all his cotcmporaries. Whether he re- sided in town, or in the country, he always kept open hou'e. At his houfe in London, we are told, fix oxen were gene- rally taten daily for breakfaft. Every foldier might come into bis kitchen, and take away whatever meat he could carry off upon 9 6 A NEW DISPLAY OF upon the point of his dagger ; which is not a ftronger proof of the hofpitality of this Lord, than of the plain and iimple man- ners of the age in which he lived. It is faid by fome writers, that no lefs than thirty thoufand perfons lived daily at his board, in the different manors and caftles which he poffefled in Eng- land. HAMPTON COURT. This royal palace is delightfully fituated on the north bank of the- river Thames, about two miles from Kingfton, four- teen from London, and at a fmall diftance from a village called Hampton. This magnificent ftructure was built with brick by Cardinal Wolfey, who here fet up two hundred and eighty (ilk beds for ftrangers only, and richly ftored it with gold and filver plate ; but it raifed fo much envy againft him, that to fcreen himfelf from its effects, he gave it to King Henry VI If. who, in return, fuffered him to live in his palace of Richmond. King Henry greatly enlarged it, and it had then five fpacious courts adorned with buildings, which in that age were fo greatly admired by all foreigners as well as the natives, that the learned Grotius fays of this place : Si quis opes nefcit (fed quis tamen ille ?) Britannus, Hampton Curia, tuos confultat ille Lares j Contulerit toto cum fparfa palatia mundo, Dicet, Ibi Reges, hie habitare Deos. That is, If i 'er a Briton what is wealth don't know ; let him repair to Hampton Court, and then view all the palaces of the earth, when he will fay, Thofe are the reftdence of Kings hut this of the Gods. In order to give a more perfect idea of this grandeur, we (hall give a defcription of the ornaments of this palace, as they appeared in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, from an author who defcribes what he himfelf faw. " The chief area, fays he, is paved with fquare ftonej *' in its center is a fountain that throws up water, covered *« with a gilt crown, on the top of which is a ftatue of Ju- M ftice, fupported by columns of black and white marble. The ** chapel of this palace is moft fplendid, in which the Queen's «* clofe: is quite tranfparent, having its windows of cryftal. U We were led into two chambers called the audience, or M chambers of autfience, which ihone with tapeltTy of gold '« and TH.E BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND, fj and filver, and filk of different colours ; under the canopy " of ftate are thefe words embroidered in pearl, Yivat Henricus Octavus. Here is befides a fmall chapel " richly hung with tapeftry* where the Queen performs her (( devotions. In her bed-chamber the bed was covered with " very coftly coverlids of filk. At no great diftance from " this room we were fhewn a bed, the teafter of which wa9 . * 4 worked by Anne Boleyn, and prefented by her to her " hufband Henry VIII. All the other rooms being very " numerous, are adorned with tapeftry of gold, filver, and " velvet, in fome of which were woven hiftory pieces, in " others Turkifh and American dreffes, all extremely na- •* tural. " In the hall are fhefe curiofities : a very clear looking *' glafs, ornamented with columns and little images of alaba- '* Iter ; a portrait of Edward VI. brother to Queen Elizabeth ; '* the true portrait of Lucretia ; a picture of the battle of Pa- ** via ; the hiftory of Chrift's pafiion, carved in mother of " pearl ; the portrait of Mary Queen of Scots ; the pi&ure " of Ferdinand Prince of Spain, and of Philip his fon ; that " of Henry VIII. uiider which was placed the Bible, curioufly ** written on parchment ; an artificial fphere j feveral mufi- " cal inftruments : in the tapeftry are reprefented negroes ** riding upon elephants ; the bed in which Edward VI. is " faid to have been born, and where his mother, Jane Sey- " mour, died in childbed. In one chamber were feveral ex- '* ceflively rich tapeftries, which are hung up when the Ci Queen gives audience to foreign ambafladors ; there were " many counterpanes and coverlids of beds lined with ermine. " In fhort, all the walls of the palace fhine with gold and ** filver. Here is befides a certain cabinet called Paradife, " where befides that everything glitters fo with filver, gold, rge's chapel ; in- clofed the whole with a ftrong wall or rampart of ftone, and inftituted the order of the garter. It may be proper to obferve, that William of Wykeham, afterwards Bifhop of Winchefter, was principally employed by Edward III. in building this caftle, and when he had flniflied it, he caufed this doubtful fentence to be cut on one of the towers. This made Wykeham. Which being reported to the King, as if that prelate had af- fumed to himfelf the honour of building this caftle, that Bi- fhop would probably have fallen under his Majefty's difpleafure, had he not readily allured his royal mafter, that he meant it only as an acknowledgment, that this building had made him great in the favour of his Prince j and had occafioned his being raifed to his prefent high ftation. Great additions were in fucceeding times made to the caftle, byfeveralof our monarchs, particularly by Edward IV. Henry VII. Henry VIII. Elizabeth and Charles II. This laft Prince, foon after his reftoration, entirely repaired the caftle, and though it had fufFered greatly by plunder and rapine, in the preceding times of national diforder, he reftored it to its an- cient fpendor. As that prince ufually kept his court there during the fummer feafon, he fpared no expence in rendering it worthy the royal refidence ; he entirely changed the face of the upper court ; he enlarged the windows, and made them regular ; richly furnifhed the royal apartments, and had them decorated with large and beautiful paintings, and credted a large magazine of arms. In ftiort, King Charles II. left little to be done to the caftle, except fome additional paintings in the apartments, which were added by his fuccelibrs James II. and William III. in whof« reign the whole was completed. This ftately and venerable caftle is divided into two courts or wards, with a large round tower between them called the middle ward, it being formerly feparated from the lower waid by a ftrong wall and draw-bridge. The whole contains above twelve acres of land, and has many towers and batteries for its defence : but length of time has abated their ftrength. The caftle is fituated upen a high hill, which rifes by a gentle afcent, and enjoys a moft delightful profpefl around it : Vol. I. P in 114 A NEW DISPLAY OF in the front is a wide and extenfive vale, alorned with corn fields and mea lows, with groves on either fide, an J the calm fmooth water of the Thames running through it, and bihind it are every where hills covered with woods, as if dedicated by nature for game and hunting. On the declivity of the hill is a fine terrace, faced with a rampart of free ftone, 1870 feet in length. This may juftly be faid to be one of the nobleft walks in Europe, both with reffiecT: to the ftrength and grandeur of the building, and the fine and extenfive profpc£t over the Thames, of the adjacent country on every iide, where from the variety of fine villas fcattered about, nature and art feem to vie with each .other in beauty. When Queen Elizabeth refided at Windfor, (he ufed to walk on this terrace near an hour every day before dinner, if not prevented by windy weather, to which file had a particu- lar averfibn. Wet weather was no interruption to her amufe- ment there ; for file took great delight in walking abroad when the rain was only mild and calm, with an umbrella over her head. — This noble walk is covered with fine gravel, and has cavities, with proper drains, in order to carry off the rain, fo that let it fall never fo heavy, none of it will lie upon the ter- race ; by which means it is dry, hard, and fit for walking on, as foon as ever the ftorm is over* From this terrace you enter into a beautiful park of the fineft green or lawn, which lies round this Royal Caftle, and is no fmall o; nament to Windfor ; it is called the Little or Houfe-Park, to diftinguifh it from another adjoining of much larger extent ; but this is computed to be four miles in circum- ference, and contains near 500 acres or" land ; it was enlarged and inclofed by a brick- wall in the reign of the late King William III. and is moll delightful for its natural beauty, and the many fhady walks, efpecially that called Queen Elizabeth's walk ; which, on the fummer evenings, is chiefly frequented by the beft company : the fine plain on the top of the hill, was made level for bowling in King Charles lld.'s time, (an exercife in which that Prince much delighted) and from hence is the like extended proipeft over the fame moll beautiful and well' cultivated country, and the river Thames. The lower part of this park, under the terrace of the north fide of the Caftle, was defigned and laid out for a garden in the reign of Queen Anne ; but on the demife of that Princefs, and in a country where the beauties of nature are more attended to than the decorations of art, this defigh was laid afidc : in this park is conftantly a good THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 115 good flock of deer r.nd other game, and the Keeper's Lodge at the farther end next the road fide, is a delightful habitation. The prefent Keeper of this park is the Earl of Pomfrct. In the upper court of the caftle, is a fpacious and regular fquare, containing on the north fide the royal apartments, and St. George's chapel and ha!il j on the fouth and the ea. r t fides are the royal apartments, thofe of the Pnnce of Wales, and the great officers of ftate ; and in the centre of the area is an cquettrian Itatue in copper of King Charles 11. in thj habit ot one of the Gefars, finding on a fnaib-le pedeftid, adorned with various kinds of fruit, fifh, (hipping, and other orna- ments. The Round Tower , which forms the weft fide of this upper court, contains the governors apartments. It is built on the higheft part of the mount, and there is an afcent to it by a large flight of ftone fteps ; thefe apartments are ipacious and noble, and among the relt is a guard room or magazine of arms. King Charles II. began to face this mount with brick, but only compleaied that part next the court. The prefent go- vernor of this caftle is the Duke of Montague. His lodgings command a mod extenfive view to London, and, as they fay, into twelve counties. T hey alfo tell you, that in the guard- chamber, are the coats of mail of John, King of France, and David, King of Scotland, both priloners h re at the fame time. The royal ftandard is ra;fed on this tower on Hate-holidays, or when the king or royal family refide here. On the oppoiite corner of the royal buildings is King John s Tower, fo named from its being the aparment affigned to that French monarch, when he was prifoner in England. The Royal Apartments are*on the north fide of this princely Caftle, and Commonly go under the name of the Star Build- ing, from the garter and ftar largely diGjlayed in g<.ld, and fixed in the middle of the building on the outfide next the terrace. The ufal entrance into the apartments is from the upper court or ward, through a hanJfome Veftibule, fupported by pillars of the Ionic order, with fome antique brafs buftos in the fe- Ve'ral niches of no great account ; and alfo figures of a Roman veftal, and a Have in the adlion of picking a tho r n out of his foot. The great flair cafe is finely painted with feveral fa- bulous ftories from Ovid's Metamorphofes, particularly the flory of Phaeton, who is reprefented on the dome petitioning Apollo for leave to drive the chariot of the fun; and on the flair-cafe, in large cempartments, are the transformation of P 2 Phae- A NEW DISPLAY OF Phaetan's fitters into poplars, their tears diftilling amber fronj the trees, with this inscription, Magnis tamen excidit Aufts i great events happen to the bold: Alfo the ftory of Cycnus, K. of Liguria, who, being inconlblable for Phaeton's death, was transformed into a fwan. Over thefe, and on the feveral parts of the cieling, fupported by the winds, are reprefented the figns of the zodiac, with bafkets of flowers, beautifully difpofed, and at each corner are the elements of earth, air. fire, and water, expreffed by Cornucopeas, birds, zephyrs, flaming cen- fers, water nymphs with fifties, and a variety of other repre- fentations expreffing each element; alfo Aurora, with her nymphs in waiting, giving water to her horfes. In proper at- titudes in feveral parts of this ftair cafe, are alfo reprefented comedy, tragedy, mufick, painting, and other fciences, and the whole flair-cafe is beautifully difpofed and heightened with gold, and has a view to the back flairs, whereon is painted the ftory of Meleager and Atalanta. The painting of this ftair-cafe was by Sir James Thornhili. — We now proceed to a particular defciiption of the principal apartments. The £{ueeri 's Guard Chamber. This room, which is the firft apartment into which you enter, is completely fumifhed with fire-arms, as guns, bayo- nets, pikes, bandaleers,' &c. beautifully ranged and difpofed into various forms, with the ftar and gaiter, the royal cypher, and o'her ornaments intermixed, cut in lime- wood. Over the chimney, is a full portrait of prince George of Denmark in armour on horfeback, by Dahl, with a view of {hipping, by Vandewell : on the cieling. is Britannia, in the perfon of Queen Catharine of Portugal, confort to KingCharles II. feated on a globe, bearing the arms of England and Portugal, with the four quarters of the world, viz. Europe, Afia, Africa, and Ame- rica, and their refpedtive fymbols attended by deities, prefenting their feveral offerings. The figns of the zodiack are on the outer part of this beautiful reprefentation. In different parts of the cieling are Mars, Venus, Juno, Minerva, and other heathen deities, with zephyrs, cupids, and other embellifhments properly difpofed. The Sheen's Prefence- Chamber. On the cieling of this room Queen Catharine is reprefented attended by religion, prudence, fortitude, and other virtues: file is under a curtain fpread by time, and fupported by zephyrs, while THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 117 while fame founds the happinefs of Britain ; below, Juftice is driving away envy, fediticn, and other evil genii. The room is hung with tapeftry, containing the hiftory of the beheading of St. Paul, and the perfecution of the primitive Chriftians } and adorned with the pidures of Judith and Holofernes j by Guido Reni j a magdalen, by Sir Peter Lely } and a Prorne~ theus by young Palma. The Shteens Audience Room. On the cieling is Britannia reprefented in the perfon of Queen Catherine, in a car drawn by fwans to the temple of virtue, attended by Flora, Ceres, Pomona, &c. with other decorati- ons heightened with gold. The canopy is of fine Englifh vel- vet, fet up by Queen Anne ; and the tapeftry was made atCob- lentz, in Germany, and prefented to King Henry VIII. The pictures hung up in this room, are, a Magdalen by moonlight, byCaTraccij St. Stephen ftoned, by Rotterman j and Judith and Holofernes, by Guido Reni, The Ball Room, On the cieling King Charles IT. is reprefented giving free- dom to Europe by the figures of Perfeus and Andromeda ; on the fhield of Perfeus is inferibed Perfeus Britannicus, and over the head of Andromeda is wrote Europa Liberata, and Mars attended by the celeftial deities, over the olive branch. On the coving of this chamber is the ftory of Perfeus and Andro- meda, the four feafons, and the figns of the Zodiac, the whole heightened with gold. The tapeftry, which was made at Brufle|s, and fet up by King Charles II. reprefents the feafons of the year ; and the room is adorned with the following pic- tures, the Roman Charity, after Tintoret ; Duns Scotus, by Spagnoletto ; a Madona, by Titian ; Fame by Palmegiani ; the Arts and Sciences, alfo by Palmegiani j and Pan and Sy- rinx, by Stanick. The Queen's Drawing Room- On the cieling is painted the aflembly of the Gods and God- defles, the whole intermixed with cupids, flowers, &c. and heightened with gold. The room is hung with tapeftry re- prefenting the twelve months of the year, and adorned with the pictures of Lot and his daughters, after Angelo j Lady Digby nS A NEW DISPLAY OF Di°by, wife of Sir Kenelm Digby, by Vandyke ; a fleeping Venus, by Pouflin ; a family in the character of Mark Antho- ny and Cleopatra, by De Bray ; a Spanifli family, after Titian } and a flower piece by VareHt. The Queen's Bed-Chamber. The bed of (late is rich flowered velvet made in Spitalfields, by order of Queen Anne, and the tapeftry, which reprefents the harveft fealon, was alfo made at London, by Poyntz. The cieling is painted with the ftory of Diana and Endymion, and the room is adorned with the pictures of the holy family, by Raphael j Herod's cruelty, by Julio Romano j and Judith and Holofernes, by Guido. The Room of Beauties, This is fo named from the portraits of the moft celebrated beauties in the reign of King Charles II. They are fourteen in number, viz. Lady Oflbry, the Duchefs of Somerfet, the Duchefs of Cleveland, Lady Gramont, the Countefs of Nor- thumberland, the Duchefs of Richmond, Lady Birons, Mrs. Middleton, Lady Denham and her fifter, Lady Rocheder, Lady Sunderland, Mrs. Dawfon, and Mrs. Knott. Thefe are all original paintings drawn to great perfedtion by Sir Peter Lely. The Queen s DreJJing Room* In this room are the following portraits ; Queen Henrietta Maria, wife to King Charles I. Queen Mary, when a child, and Queen Catherine ; thefe three are all done by Vandyke ; the Duchefs of York, mother to Queen Mary and Queen Anne, by Sir Peter Lely. In this room is a clofet wherein are feveral paintings, and in particular a portrait of the Countefs of Defmond, who is faid to have lived to within a few days of one hundred and fifty years of age ; alfo a portrait of Erafmus, and other learned men. In this clofet is likeWife the banner of France annually delivered on the fecond of Auguft by the Duke of Marlbo- aough, by which he holds Blenheim-houfe, built at Woodftocfe in Oxfordfhire, in the reign of Queen Anne, as a national re- ward to that great General for his many glorious victories over th.e French. THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. ii$ £>uecn Elizabeth's, or the PiSlure Gallery. This is richly adorned with the following paintings : King James I. and his Queen, whole lengths, by Vanfomer ; Rome in flames, by Julio Romano } a Roman family, by Titian j the holy family, after Raphael ; Judith and Holofernes, by Tintoret ; a portrait of Charles VI. Emperor of Germany, by Sir Godfrey Kncller ; the wife men making their offerings to Chrift, by Paulo Veronefe ; two ufurers, an admired piece, by the famous blackfmith of Antwerp ; Perfeus and Andro- meda % by Schiavone ; Aretine and Titian, by Titian ; the Duke of Gloucefter, a whole length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; Prince George of Denmark, a whole length, by Dahl ; King Henry VIII. by Hans Holbein Vandenelli, an Italian ftatu- ary, Correggioj the founders of different orders in the Ro- frufh church, by Titian and Rembrandt ; a rural piece in low life, by Baffano ; a fowl piece, by Varelft ; the battle of Spurs near Terevaen, in France, in 1513, by Hans Holbein j two views of Windfor caftle, by Wofterman, and two Italian markets, by Michael Angelo. In this room is alfo a curious amber cabinet, prefented by the King of Pruffia to Queen Ca- roline. There is here likewife Queen Caroline's china clofet, filled with a great variety of curious china elegantly difpofed, and the whole room is finely gilt and ornamented ; over the chim- ney are the pictures of Prince Arthur and his two fitters, th« children of King Henry VII. by Holbein ; and in this clofet is alfo a fine amber cabinet, prefented to Queen Anne, by Dr. Robinfon, Bifhop of London, and plenipotentiary at the con- grefs of Utrecht. Tht King's Clofet. The cieling of this is adorned with the ftory of Jupiter and Leda. Among the curiofities in this room is a large frame of needle work, faid to be wrought by Mary Queen of Scots, while a prifoner in Forthinghay caftle ; among other figures, fhe herfelf is reprefented fupplicating for juftice before the Virgin Mary, with her fon, afterwards King James I. {land- ing by her •, in a fcroll is worked thefe words Sapieniiam ama~ vi et txquifivi a juvmtute mea. This piece of work, after its having lain a long time in the wardrobe, was fet up by order of Queen Anne. The pictures are, a Magdalen, by Carracci a fleep- »20 A NEW DISPLAY OF a fleeping Cupid, by Correggio ; contemplation, by Carrac- ci ; Titian's daughter, by herfelf ; and a German Lady, by Raphael . 77)e King's DreJJing Rooxt. The cieling of this is painted with the ftory of Jupiter and Danae ; and adorned with the pictures of the birth of Jupiter, by Julio Romano ; and of a naked Venus afleep, by Sir Peter Lely, The King's Bed Chamber. This is hung with tapeftry, reprefenting the flory of Hero and Leander ; the bed of ftate, which was fet up in the reign of King Charles II. is of fine blue cloth, richly embroidered with gold and filver ; and on the cieling that Prince is repre- fented in the robes of the garter, under a canopy fupported by Time, Jupiter and Neptune, with a wreath of laurel over his head ; and he is attended by Europe, Afia, Africa, and Ame- rica, paying their obeifance to him. The paintings are, King Charles II. when a boy, in armour, by Vandyke ; and St. Paul ftoned at Lyftra, by Paulo Veronefe. The King's Drawing Room. On the cieling is King Charles II, riding in a triumphal car, drawn by the horfes of the fun, attended by Fame, Peace, and the polite arts ; Hercules is driving away rebellion, fedition, and ignorance ; Britannia and Neptune, properly at- tended, are paying obeifance to the monarch as he paffes ; and the whole |is a reprefentation of the reftoration of that monarch, and the introduction of arts and fciences in thefe kingdoms. In the other parts of the cieling are painted the labours of Hercules, with feftoons of fruit and flowers, the whole beautifully decorated in gold and ftone colour. The pictures hung up in this room are, a converted Chinefe, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; the Marquis of Hamilton, after Van- dyke, by Hanneman ; Herodias's daughter, by Carlo Dolci j a Magdalen, by Carlo Dolci j and a Venetian Lady, by Titian. TJje King's Public Dining Room. On the cieling is painted the banquet of the gods, with a variety of fifti and fowl. The pictures hung up here are, the portraits of his prefont Majefty, and the late Queen Ca- roline, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 121 roline, whole lengths ; Hercules ajid Omphale, Cephalus and Procris, the birh of Venus, and Venus and Adonis, the four laft by Genario; a naval triumph of King Charles II. by Ver- lio j the marriage of St. Catherine, by Dawkers ; nymphs and fatyrs, by Rubens and Snyders j hunting the wild boar, by Snyders; a picture of ftill life, byGirardo; the taking of the bears by Snyders ; a night piece, being a family finging by can- dle light, by Qiiiftin ; a Bohemian family, by De Brie ; divine love by an unknown hand j and Lacy, a famous comedian in King Charles the Second's time, in three characters, by Wright. Many of the paintings in this room are beft feen at noon by the reflection of the fun ; the carving of this chamber is very beautiful, reprefenting a great variety of fowl, fifh and fruit, done to the utmoft perfection on lime wood, by Mr. Gibbons, a fa- mous ftatuary and carver in the reign of King Charles II. The King's Audience Chamber, On the deling is reprefented the eftablifhment of pure reli- gion in thefe nations on the reftoration of that pious Prince, Charles II. in the characters of England, Scotland, and Ireland, attended by Faith, Hope, Charity, and the Cardinal Virtues j Religion triumphs over Superftition and Hypocrify, which are driven by Cupids from before the face of the church ; all which appear in proper attitudes, and the whole highly finifhed. The paintings in this room are, Our Saviour before Pilate, by Mi- chael Angelo j the Apoftles at our Saviour's tomb, by Schia- voni ; Peter, James, and John, by Michael Angelo ; and the Dutchefs of Richmond, by Vandyke. The canopy of this room is of green velvet, embroidered with gold, very rich, fet up in the reign of King Charles II. The King's Prefence Chamber. On the cielinig i s Mercury, with an exceeding good original portrait of Kingr Charles II. which he fhews to the four quarters of the world, introduced by Neptune ; Fame declaring the glory of that prince, and Time driving away Rebellion, Sedition, 2nd their companions. Over the canopy is Juftice in ftone • colour, (hewing the arms of Britain to Thames and his river nymphs, v/ith the ftar of Venus, and this label, Sydus Corioli- fium j at the lower end of the chamber is Venus in a fea car, Q, drawn IZ2 A NEW DISPLAY OF drawn by Tritons and fea nymphs. This cieling is in all parts beautifully painted, and highly ornamented with gold and ftone- colour. The painting in this room are, Henry JJuke of Glou- cefter, brother to King Charles II. by Vandyke ; the Countefs of Dorfet his governefs, by ditto ; Father Paul the Venetian, by Tintoret ; the tapeftry of this chamber, is thebiflory of Queen Athalbh. The Kings Guard Chamber. In this fpacious and noble room is a larse magazine of arms, viz. pikes, piftols, guns, coats of mail, fwords, halberts, bayonets, drums, &c. to the amount of fome thousands, all beau- tifully difpofed in colonades, pillars, circles, Ihields, and other devices in a moft curious manner, ranged by Mr. Harris, late mafter-gunner of the caftle, the fame perfon who made that beautiful arrangement of the fmall arms in the great armoury in the Tower of London, and at Hampton Court, and whom we have before fpoken of. The cieling is painted in water-colours : in one circle is Peace and Plenty, and in the other Mars and Minerva. In the dome, is a reprefentation of Mars, and the whole room is decorated with inftruments of war adapted to the chamber. Over the chimney is a portrait, as large as life, of Charles XI. King of Sweden, on horfeback, by Wyck. And over the door they fliew the armour of Edward the Black Prince. In this room the Knights of the Garter dine in great ftate at an Inftallation, in the abfence of the Sovereign. St. George's Hall. This Hall is particularly fet apart to the honour of the order of the Garter, and is one of the nobleft rooms in Europe, both with regard to the building and the painting, which is here per- formed in the moft grand tafte. In a large oval in the centre of the cieling King Charles II. is reprefented in the habit of the or- der, attended by England, Scotland, and Ireland ; Religion and Plenty hold the crown of thefe kingdoms over his head j Mars and Mercury, with the emblems of war and peace ftand on c. ch fide. In the fame oval, regal government is reprefented upheld by religion and eternity, with Jufrice attended by forti- tude, temperance and prudence, beating down rebellion and faction. Towards the throne is reprefented in an odhgon St. George's THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 123 'George's crofs incircled with the garter, within aftar or glory fupported by Cupids, with the motto, HoNI SOJT QUI MAL Y PENCE. and befides other embellihhments relating to the order, the mufes are reprefenteci attending in full concert. On the back of the ftate, or Sovereign's throne, is a large drapery, on which is painted St. George encountering the Dra- gon, as large as the life, and on the lower border of the drapery is infcribed, VENIENDO R ESTITUIT REM, in allufion to King William III. who is painted in the habit of the order, fitting under a royal canopy, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. To the throne is an afcent by five fteps of fine marble, to which the painter has added five more, which are done with fuch per- fection as to deceive the fight, and induce the fpe&ator to think them equally real. This noble room is an hundred and eight feet in length, and the whole north fide is taken up with the triumph of Edward the Black Prince, after the manner of the Romans. At the upper part of the hall is Fdward III. that Prince's father, the conqueror of France and Scotland, and the founder of the order of the garter, feated on a throne, receiving the Kings of France and Scotland prifoners ; the Black Prince is feated in the middle of the proceffion, crowned with laurel, and carried by flaves ; preceded by captives, and attended by the emblems of victory, liberty, and other enfignia of the Romans, with the banners of France and Scotland difplayeJ. The painter has given a loofe to his fancy by clofing the proceffion with the fiction of the Countefs of Salifbury, in the perfon of a fine lady, making gar- lands for the Prince, and the reprefentation of the merry wives of Wind for. At the lower end of the hall is a noble mufic gallery, fup- ported by flaves, larger than the life, in proper attitudes, faid to reprefent a father and his three fons, taken prifoners by the Black Prince in his wars abroad. Over this gallery on the lower compartment of the cieling is the collar of the order of the gar- ter fully difplayed. The painting of this room was done by Verrio, and is highly finifhed and heightened with gold. The King's Chapel. This chapel is decorated in a very gay and fplendid manner. On the cieling is finely reprefented our Lord's afcenfion. > and Q_2 the 124 A NEW DISPLAY OF the altar piece is adorned with a noble painting of the laft fup- per. The north fide of the chapel is ornamented with the reprefentation of our Saviour's raifing Lazarus from the dead, his curing the fick of the palfy, and other miracles, beautifully painted by Verrio ; and in a group of fpedtators the painter has introduced his own effigy, with thofe of Sir Godfrey Kneller, and Mr. Cooper, who affifted him in thefe paintings. The eaft end of this chapel is taken up with the clofets belonging to his Majefty and the Royal family. The canopy, curtains, and fur- niture are of crimfon velvet, fringed with gold ; and the carved work of this chapel, which is well worthy the attention of the curious, is done by that famous artift Gibbons, in lime tree, re* prefenting a great variety of pelicans, doves, palms, and other allufions to fcripture hiftory, with theftar and garter, and other ornaments finifhed to great perfection. St. George s Chapel. This ancient ftrudture, which is fituated in the middle of the lower court, is in the pureft ftile of Gothic architecture, and was firft erected by King Edward the Third, in the year 1337, foon after the foundation of the college, for the honour of the order of the garter, and dedicated to St. George, the patron of England ; but however noble the firft defign might be, King Edward IV. not finding it entirely compleated, enlarged the ftructure and defigned the prefent building, together with the houfes of the dean and canons, fituated on the north and weft fides of the chapel ; the work was afterwards carried on by Irlenry VII. who finifhed the body of the chapel, and Sir Reginald Bray, knight of the garter, and the favourite of that King, affifted in ornamenting the chapel and compleating the roof. The architecture of the infide has always been efteemed for its neatnefs and great beauty, and in particular the ftone roof is reckoned an excellent piece of workmanfhip. It is an ellipfis fupported by Gothic pillars, whofe ribs and groins fuftain the whole ceiling, every part of which has fome different device well finifhed, as the arms of Edward the Confeffor, Ed- ward III. Henry VI. Edward IV. Henry VII. an ception of a great number, and the providing them with every thing that can contribute to the convenience and pleafureuf the penfioners. Chelfea Hofpital is more particularly remarkable for its great regularity and proper fubordination of parts, which is very ap- parent in the north front. The middle is very principal, and the tranfition from hence to the extremities, is very eafy and delightful. The expence of erecting thefe buildings is computed to amount to i5o>oool, and the extent of the ground is above forty acres. In the wings are fixteen wards, in which are accommoda- tions for above 400 men, and there are befides in the other buildings, a.confiderable number of apartments for officers and fervants. Thefe penfioners confift of fuperannuated veterans, who have been at leaft twenty years in the army ; or thofe foldiers who are difabled in the fervice of the crown. They wear red coats lined with blue, and are provided with all other cloaths, diet, Wafting and lodging. The Governor has 500I, a year; the T z kieu- 148 A NEW DISPLAY OF Lieutenant Governor 250I. and the Major 150I. Thirty-fix Officers are allowed 6d. a day: thirty-four light horfemen, and thirty ferjeants, have 2s. a week each ; forty-eight corporals and drums have iod. per week ; and three hundred and thirty- fix private men, are each allowed 8d. a week. As the houfe is called a garrifon, all the members are obliged to do duty in their refpeclive turns ; and they have prayers twice a day in the chapel, performed by two chaplains, who have each a falary of iool. a year. The phyfician, fecretary, comptrol- ler, deputy treafurer, fteward, and furgeon, have alfo each iool. per annum, and many other officers have confiderable falaries. As to the out-pcnfioners, who amount to be- tween eight and nine thoufand, they have each 7I. 12s. 6d. a year. Thefe great expences are fupported by a poundage deducted out of the pay of the army, with one day's pay once a year from each officer and common foldier ; and when there is any deficiency, it is fupplied by a fum raifed by parliament. This hofpital is governed by the following commiflions ; the Prefident of the treafury, the Principal Secretary of ftate, the Pay-rnaf- ter general of the forces, the Secretary at war, the Comptrol- lers of the army, and by the Governor and Lieutenant Go- vernor of the hofpital. The Apothecaries Company have a fpacious and beautiful phyfic garden at Chelfea, which contains near four acres, and is enriched with a vaft variety of plants both domeftic and exotic. This was given by Sir Hans Sloane, Bart, on condition of their paying a quit-rent of 5I. per annum, and annually delivering to the preiident and fellows of the royal fociety, at one of their public meetings, fifty fpecimens of different forts of plants, well cured, and of the growth of this garden, till the number of fpecimens amounts to 2000. There is alfo at Chelfea a place of public entertainment re-r markable for its elegance, and well known by the name of Ranelagh Gardens, fo called from their formerly be- longing to the Earl of Ranelagh. There is no place of public pleafure of the kind equal to this in any other part of Europe; and it is the relot t of people of the ferft quality. Though its gardens are beautiful, it is more to be admired for the amphi- theatre. This is a circular building, the external diameter is one hundred and eighty -five feet, round the whole is an arcade, 3 and THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 149 apd over that a gallery with a balluftrade (to admit the company into the upper boxes) except where the entrances break the con- tinuity. Over this are the windows, and it terminates with the roof. The internal diameter is one hundred and fifty feet, and the architecture of the infide correfponds with theoutfide, except that over every column, between the windows, termini fupport the roof. In the middle of the area, where the orche- ftra was at firft defigned, is a chimney having four faces; in which is a fire, whenever the weather makes it neceflary. The orcheftra fills up the place of one of the entrances. The en- tertainment confifts of a fine band of mufic with an organ, ac- companied by the beft voices ; and of late fireworks of the mod fplendid kind have been exhibited here. The company is re- galed with tea and coffee. P A N C R A S. This is a fmall hamlet in Middlefex, on the north- well: fide of London. It has a church dedicated to St. Pancras, and cal- led St. Pancras in the Fields, an old plain Gothic ftruclure, with a fquare tower without a fpire. It is a vulgar tradition that this church is of greater antiquity than St. Paul's cathedral, of which it is only a prebend ; but this arifes from a miftake i for the church of St. Pancras, termed the mother of St. Paul'?, was fituated in the city of Canterbury, and was changed from a Pagan temple to a Chriftian church by Aufiin the monk, in in the year 598, when he dedicated it to St. Pancras. Pancras church -yard is a general burying place for perfons of the Romifh religion. There are a great number of tombs in it j and in particular a very elegant one erected to the me- mory of Lady Henrietta Beard, only daughter of James, Earl of Waldegrave, who was firit married to Lord Edward Her- bert, fon to the Marquis of Powis, and afterwards to Mr. Beard, the celebrated finger, and who was alfo one of the ma- nagers of Covent-garden theatre. A very handfome monu- ment has likewife been lately erected to the memory of Mifs Dorothea Dias de Faria, who was drowned on the 26th cf June, 1772, in the fifth year of her age. And another in me- mory of a proteftant young Lady, Mary Barfnet, who died in J 75°» a g e d twenty -three years, on whole monument are the following lines : " Go, fpotlefs honour, and unfully'd truth, " Go, finijing innocence, and blooming youth ; " Go, 15© A NEW DISPLAY OF " Go, fedfale fweetnefs, join'd with manly fenfe, ts Go, winning wit, that never gave offence ; tC Go, foft humanity, that bleft the poor, ** Go, faint-ey'd patience, from affliction's door j * c Go, modefty, that never wore a frown, '* Go, virtue, and receive thy heav'nly crown ! W Not from a ftranger came this heart -felt verfe, «* The friend infcrib'd thy tomb whofe tears bedew'd thy « hearfe." KENTISH TOWN. Th s has arifen from a fmall village, to be a place of confil- derable repute ; for the air being extremely healthy, many of the citizens of London have built houfes in it j and many otheirs who cannot afford that expence, take ready furnifhed lodging^ for the fummer, particularly thofe who are afflicted with com- fumptions, and other diforders. There is no parifh church iin the town, but they have a good chapel of eafe at a little diftancte„ belonging to Pancras parifh. In the town are fome gentetell board ing-fchools, and many.public-houfes, it being much ree— forted to by the people of London. ISLINGTON. This is a confiderable village in Middlefex, on the norttih. fide of London : it has been fo much enlarged within thefe fe^vw years by the addition of new buildings, that it almoft joins ttco the capital. It is a place of great antiquity, and appears ttto have been built by the Saxons, and in the time of Williannn the Conqueror was called Ifendon or Ifledon. By the foultlh weit fide of this village, is a fine refervoir called New Riveeer Head, which confifts of a large bafon, into which the Ne^vw River difcharges itfelf ; part of the water is from thence connn- veyed by pipes to London, while another part is thrown tbby an engine through other pipes up a hill to a refervoir, whicicch, lies much higher, in order to fupply the higheft parts of Loonn- don. The church is one of the prebends of St. Paul's j the oobld Gothic ftrufture lately taken down, was erected in the ye;ea;af 1503, and flood till 1751, when it being in a ruinous C(Oi-)n>n- dition, the inhabitants applied to parliament for leave to rebululiilid it, and foon after erected the prefent ftrudture, which i:s s 3 a very fubftantial brick edifice, though it does not want an a a air of lightnefs. The body is well enlightened, and the anglolojes ftrengthened and decorated with a plain ruftic. The flwocoor THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 151 is raifed confiderably above the level of the church-yard, and the door in the front is adorned with a portico, which confifts of a dome fupported by four Doric columns ; but both the door and the portico appear too fmall for the reft of the building. The fteeple confifts of a tower, which rifes fquare to a conli- derable height, terminated by a cornice fupporting four vafes, at the corners. Upon this part is placed an octangular balluft^ade, from within which rifes the bafe of the dome in the fame form, fupporting Corinthian columns with their fhafts wrought with ruftic. Upon thefe refts the dome, and from its crown rifes the fpire, which is terminated by a ball and its fane. Though the body of the church is very large, the roof is fupported with- out pillars, and the infide is extremely commodious, and adorned with an elegant plainnefs. This parifti is very extenfive, and includes Upper and Lower J3olloway, three fides of Newington Green, and part of Kingf- land. There are in Mington two meeting-houfts and a cha- rity-fchool founded in the year 1613, by Dame Alice Owen, for educating thirty children j this foundation, together with that of a row of alms-houfes, are under the care of the Brew- ers company. Mington contains a vaft number of inhabitants, many hand - fome rows of very neat houfes having been lately built 111 it. And the number of public-houfes in it is very considerable ; and there are feveral noted places of entertainment in the neigh- bourhood ; particularly the White Conduit Houfe ; the Shake- fpeare and Jubilee Gardens, formerly known by the name of Dobney's ; New Tunbridge Gardens ; and Sadler's Wells, where, during the fummer feafon, people are amufed with ba- lance-mafters, walking on the wire, rope-dancing, tumbling, dancing, finging, and pantomime entertainments. Indeed, houfes of diflipation of every kind, have of late years been greatly increased in the neighbourhood of London, to a degree that would not have been fuffered, if the morals of the peo; !e were an objett of any confideration to thofe who are inveftc d with the powers of government. Near the New River, on the north of Mington, is an an- tient edifice, called Cann$nbury-koufe ; and near it feveral hand- fome houfes have been built within thefe few years. The old houfe is partly let out in lodgings, and partly uied us a genteel public-houfe. At a little diftance from it is a farm and a public-houfe, called Highbury Barn, near which are the remains of ancient fortification, in a place known by the name A NEW DISPLAY OF name of Reedmoat, or fix acre field. Moft of our antiqua-« rians have fuppofed that this was the place where Paulinus, the Roman General, fled with his men, when the Britons, under the command of Queen Boadicea, murdered all the in- habitants of London, and fet fire to that city. As the refervoir of the New River before mentioned, is near Iflington, and as this is a work of great public utility, it may not be improper here to give a more particalar account of it. — Various were the projects in the reigns of Queen Elizabeth and King James the Firft, for fupplying the city of London with a fufricient quantity of water for domeftic ufes ; the former granted an act of parliament, which gave the citizens liberty to cut and convey a river from any part of Middlefex or Hertford- fliire to the city of London, within the limited time of ten years ; and the latter granted another acl:, in which they ob- tained the fame power, but without being confined to any li- mited lime ; nobody however began this great and import- ant work, till at laft Sir Hugh Middleton undertook to bring a river from Amwell in Hertfordfliire to the north fide of Lon- don near Iflington. The work began on the 20th of September 1608, and was attended with innumerable difficulties. The diftance from Lon- don is twenty miles, and he was obliged, in order to avoid the eminencies and vallies in the way, to make it run a courfe of thirty eignt miles, three quarters and fixteen poles, and to carry it over two vallies in long wooden frames or troughs lined with lead ; that at Buthill being 660 feet in length, and 30 in height ; under which, or the paflage of the land' waters is an arch capa- cious enough to admit under it the largeft waggon laden with hav or ftraw : the other near Highbury is 462 feet long and 17 in height, where it is raifed along the top of high artificial banks, and at the bottom of the hollow fupported by poles, fo that any perfon may walk under it. In fhort, over and under this river, which fometimes rifes high, and at others is convey- ed under ground, runs feveral confiderable currents ot land wa- ters, and both above and below it a great number of brooks, rills, and water courfes have their paflage. This river, which is of ineftimable benefit to London, was by this truly great man, brought to the city within the fpace of five years, and was admitted into the refervoir near Ifling- ton on Michaelmas day 161 3 j on which day Sir Thomas Mid- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 153 Middleton, brother to the great Sir Hugh, was ele&ed Lord Mayor for the enfuing year, who accompanying Sir John Swinnerton, then Lord Mayor, attended by many of the Al- dermen, the Recorder, and other gentlemen, repaired to the bafon, now called New River Head, when about fixty la- bourers, handfomely drefled, and wearing green caps, carrying fpades, (hovels, and pickaxes, marched, preceded by drums and trumpets, thrice round the bafon, when flopping before the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and other gentlemen, who were feated upon an eminence, one of the labourers addrefled hirr- felf to them in along copy of verfes, which being ended, the fluices were opened, and the ftream ran plentifully into the re- fervoir, under the found of drums and trumpets, the difcharge jef feveral pieces of ordnance, and the loud acclamations of the people. Sir Hugh Middleton, to enable himfelf to complete this grand work, had at laft, after fpending his own fortune, been obliged to apply to King James I. who advancing him a fum of money, became entitled to a moiety of its profits j he was alfo obliged to fell many other fhares, and in fliort, was in a man- ner entirely ruined by a project that has been attended with un- fpeakable benefit to this city : fince by the water of this river ? a fpeedy ftop has been put to a great number of dreadful fires, and the health of the city has been remarkably preferved by ti e cleanlinefs it has introduced among us. Yet fo little were the advantages that might then, and are now derived from this river, at that time underftood, that for above thirty years, there were not divided above 5I. odd money, to each of the {hares, which are 72 in number. This river now draws moft of its water from the Lee, which being the property of the city of London, that corporation, contrary to the intereft of the city in general, oppofed a bill brought into parliament for giving farther powers to the New River company, to take the advantage that might be obtained by the river Lee ; but the oppofition was without effeft, and in 1738-9 the bill pafled into a law. The Gover nors of the New River company then agreed with the proprietors of the lands on the river Lee for a cut of two Cubic feet of water from that river, at a certain rate ; and after the agreement, told them they would double the price for a four foot cut, which the proprietors agreed to, not confidering the great difproportion between the two cuts j and Vol. I. U this 154 A NEW DISPLAY OF this cut of the river Lee now fupplies the largefl: fhare of the New River water. In this river there are forty-three fluices, and over it two hundred and fifteen bridges. On its approaching the refervoir, called New River Head, there are feveral fmall houfes erected at a confiderable diftance from each other on its banks, into which the water runs, and is conveyed by pipes to the nearer parts of the metropolis. On its entering the above refervoir, it is there ingulphed by fifty-eight main pipes, each of feven inches bore ; and here atfo an engine worked by horfes, throws 8T great quantity of water up to another refervoir, fituated on much higher ground, from which the water runs in pipes to fupply the higheft ground in the city, and its liberties. Many years ago 30,000 houfes were thusfupplied by this water, and fince that time feveral main pipes have been laid to carry it into the liberties of Weftminfter. H O X T O N. This is a very antient place, and in the Conqueror's furvey is named Hochejion. It was formerly a town, and had a week- ly market ; but that has been long fince difcontinued. It has been fo much encreafed in buildings, that it joins to the metro- polis. The moft remarkable edifice here is Aske's Hospi- tal, a handfome building eredled by the Haberdafhers com- pany in the year 1692, purfuant to the will of Robert Afke, Efq; who left 30,000!. for building and endowing it, in order to afford lodging and board for twenty poor men of that com- pany, and for as many boys to be inftrudted in reading, writing, and arithmetic. Each of the penfioners hath an apartment confiftingof three rooms, with proper diet at a common table, and firing; the annual fum of three pounds, and a gown every fecond year ; which, together with the falaries of the chaplain, clerk, butler, porter, and other domeftics, amount to about 800I. per annum. A plan of the building was drawn by Dr. Hooke, a learned mathematician of Grefham College, and upon his model it was erected in an advantageous fituation, fronting the eaft, with grafs plats before it, adorned with rows of lime-trees and inclofed with a handfome wall and iron gates. On the piers of the great gates at the fouth end, are two flone ftatues, reprefenting two of Afke's Hofpital men, in full proportion. The principal part of the building is only one ftory high with garrets ; where a portico with twenty -one ftone pil- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 155 lars extends on a line on each fide of the chapel, which is placed in the middle, and on each fide above thefe pillars is a range of twenty-two very fmall windows. The pillars of the chapel extend to the top of the firfr. Itory, and that edifice ri- ling confiderably above the reft of the building, is terminated by a handfome pediment; with a clock, under which is the ef- figies of the founder in ftone, cloathed in his gown, and hold- ing in his hand a roll of parchment, which feems to be his laft will. Under him is the following infcription : Roberto Aske Armigero, hujus Hofpitii Fuudatorl, Socie* Haberda. B. M. P. C. And on one fide of him is this infcription : Anno Chrijii MDCLXXXII. Socletas HaberdaJl)eorum de Lon- don hoc Hofpitium condiderunt, ex Legato & Tejlarrunto Roberti Aske Armigeri, ejufdem Societatis ; ad viginti Senum Alimenta, & tot idem Puerorum Educationem. On the other fide this infcrigtion : The worjhipful Company of Haberdajhers built this Ho/pita!, purfuantto the gift and trujl of R. Aske, Efq; a late worthy Member of it, for the relief of twenty poor Members , and for the Education of twenty Boys, fons of decayed Freemen of that company. Fronting the entrance of the chapel is a large pair of very handfome iron gates, and at each end of the Hofpital is an edi- fice of the fame height as the chapel. — There are fundry other alms-houfes at Hoxton, which have been erected for different charitable purpofes ; and, among others, the alms-houfes erected and endowed by Mrs. Mary Weftby, of Bocking, in EfTex, widow, in 1749, for fourteen poor women. Thefe are commonly carted the Old Maid's Alms-houfes ; though ei- ther maids or widows may be admitted ; but they muff be Dif- fenters. King fland Is a hamlet in the pari fh of Iflington, lying be- twixt Hoxton and Newington ; and between Kingfland and Shoreditch church are what are called the Ironmongers Alms- houfes, which are very handfome, and have pleafant walks. They were founded by Sir Robert Geffryes, formerly Lord Slayor of London, who was a member of the Ironmongers U 2 Com- A NEW DISPLAY OF Company, and are appropriated for the reception and fuppert of fifty-fix decayed members of that Company. Each of them has a room, with part of a cellar, fix pounds a year in money, and a gown. None are admitted under fixty years of age ; but a wife may refide with her husband, and when he dies be elected in his room. They have a handfome chapel, where a clergyman reads prayers every day, and preaches on Sundays, for which he has a proper {alary, with commodious apartments to refide in. STOKE N EWINGTON. This is a village three miles from London, which is very large and populous, great numbers of citizens having built houfes in it, on account of its vicinity to the capital. The church is a fmall, low, Gothic ftru&ure, and belongs to the dean and chapter of St. Paul's j and there is alfo a diffenting meeting here. Behind the church is a pleafant grove, ftiaded with tall trees, and feats for the accommodation of fuch as frequent it, for the benefit of the air. Newington Green, which is a village near Newington, and partly in the fame parifh, is a very agreeable place. The prin- cipal part confiftsof a handfome fquare, in the middle of which is an extenfive and beautiful grafs-plat, with gravel-walks, leading from each of the angles ; and on the eaft fide is an handfome meeting for Proteftant Diffenters. EDMONTON Is eight miles from London, and although only a fmall vil- lage in former times, yet by the great increafe of buildings is now become ccnfiderable ; but the houfes are fcattered up and down along the road, without any regular order, and few of them join together, being moftly Separated by gardens and en- clofures. There is an affembly -room here. ENFIELD Is a town in Middlefcx, about ten miles from London, which is fuppofed to have been anciently called Enfen, from its fituation among fens, and in marfhy ground. There was for- merly a royal feat in it, fuppofed to have been built in the reign ©f King Henry VII. and in the laft century it was noted for being the refidence of a great number of tanners, but at pre- f ent little of that trade is carried on here. The THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. i 57 The town is pleafantly fituated, and the church, which is a low Gothic ftru&ure, ftands about the middle of it. There is alfo a meeting houfe here, and feveral rich citizens of London have their country-feats near the town. — There is a weekly market here on Saturday, and a fair held on the 25th of May, and another on the 29th of September. Lord Lyttleton has informed us, on the authority of an ancient author, who lived in the reign of Henry II. that the citizens of London had a chafe or foreft, extending from that part of the city, called Hounfditch, above twelve miles north, and that it was the joint property of the whole corporation. In this foreft the citizens enjoyed the diverfion of hunting and fuch other exercifes as were common in thofe warlike times. As commerce and a love of induftry encreafed, thefe diverfions were in a great meafure neglected, the foreft was gradually laid open, and at laft became the property of private perfons. Enfield chace, which is the only p^rt now remaining of this extenfive foreft, has been for many years the property of the crown, and is at prefent annexed to the dutchy of Lancafter. In the reign of King James I. when that prince refided at Theobalds, Enfield chace was well flocked with deer, the King being extremely fond of hunting; but the parliament army, during the civil war, deftroyed all the game, cut down the trees, and let the ground out in fmall farms, it continued in that condition till the reftoration, when young trees were planted, and the whole flocked with game; but it is far in- ferior to what it was formerly. The ranger, who is appointed by the crown, has a moft elegant feat, called the Lodge, and there are many feats belonging to perfons of quality, all along the borders of the chace, particularly at Southgate, where the Marquis of Caernarvon, fon to the Duke of Chandos, has a moft noble country houfe, in whici ; .s Lordfhip generally re- fides, during the fummer. CHESHUNT Is a very agreeable village, in Hertfbrdfhire, fourteen miles from London, and many of the citizens have their country feats here. The Ermine- ftreet, or Roman military way, panes near it, and in a field to the north- weft are the re- mains of a ftrong camp. It is raifed in an oblong form with deep ditches, but moft of them are now filled up. There was formerly a Benedidtine nunnery here, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and Edward III. gave this village the privi- lege 158 A NEW DISPLAY OF lege of keeping a weekly market, but it is now difcon- titmcd. THEOBALDS Is a moil pleafant village, near Chefhunt, wherein are many fine f.-ats belonging tothe Citizens of London. The palace of Theobalds, in which King James I. much delighted, now belongs to the Duke of Portland, who lets it out in tenements. This palace, which was very magnificent, was originally built by the great Lord Burleigh ; and Hentzner, who has given a defcription of it in his Itinerarium, fays, that the gallery was painted with the genealogy of the Kings of England, and from ihence.was a defcent into the garden, which was en- compafled with a ditch filled with water, and large enough to have the pleafure of rowing a boat between the ftirubs ; it was adorned with a great variety of trees and plants, labyrinths made with much labour, a jet d'eau with its bafon of white marble, and with columns and pyramids. In the fummer houfe, the lower part of which was built femicir- culary, were the twelve Roman Eemperors in white marble, and a table of touchftone ; the upper part of it was fet round with leaden cifierns, into which water was conveyed through pipes. This feat the Lord Burleigh gave to his younger ion Sir Robert Cecil, in whofe time King James I. flaying there for one night's refrefhment, as he was coming to take pofleflion of the crown of England, he Was fo delighted with the place that he gave him the manor of Hatfield Regis in exchange for it, and afterwards enlarged the park, and en- compafled it with a wall ten miles round. The palace he often vifited, in order to enjoy the pleafure of hunting in Enfield Chace and Epping Foreft, and at laft died there. In the civil wars it W3S however plundered and defaced, it being the place from whence King Charles I. fet out to eredt his ftandard at Nottingham ; King Charles II. granted the manor to George Monk, Duke of Albermale ; but it re- verting again to the crown, for want of heirs male, King William III. gave it to William Bentick, whom he created Earl of Portland, from whom it defcended to the Duke his grandfbn : the great park, a part of which was in Hertford - lhire, and a part in Middlefex, is now converted into farms. — In this neighbourhood Richard Cromwell, who had been protector, but abdicated, paffed the laft part of his life in a very private manner. HOD- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 159 HODDESDON Is a confiderable town, feventeen miles from London, in the county of Hertford. It is a contiderable thoroughfare, and a place of great antiquity. It is a confiderable marked for all forts of corn. Queen Elizabeth, by charter gran ed a grammar-fchool to this town, and endowed it with certain privileges ; and an alms-houfe was founded here in the reign of King Henry VI. by Richard Rich, (heriff of London, and anceitor to the late Earls of Warwick. Here are the l : s of an ancient chapel ; but by whom it was built does not appear, only that it belonged to an hofpital for leprous per- sons, which is now totally demolifhed. The weekly maikct is held on Thurfday, and here is a fair for toys on the 29th of July. WARE Is a town in Hertfordfhire, twenty-one miles from Lon- don, and fituated in a valley on the eaft-fide of the river Lea. — It is faid, that fome ftrolling parties of the Danes failed up this river from the Thames, in their fmall open boats, and infefted this part of the country. They likewife built a fort here, to fecure themfelves from the army of Alfred, and for its better defence, raifed the water fo high, by a great dam, or as they called it, a Weare, that it was with great difficulty the Englifli could diflodge them. And from this circumftance we are told the town received its name. This place is a confiderable thoroughfare, being one of the bett poft-townson the north road. Ware was founded in the year 914, and began to be of fome note in the reign of King J jfm, when the high road to the north, which before went through Hertford, was by the procurement of Sayer de Quincy, then Jord of the manor, turned through this town. — It coniitts of one ftreet, about a mile in length, with feveral back ftre&M and lanes, well inhabited. The church is large, built in the form of a crofs, and has an hand fome gallery, erected by the governors of Chrift's Hofpital in London, who fend feveral of the children of that hofpital hither, either for health or education. Befides a charity fchool, here ate feven alms- houfes, well endowed. At the Bull inn in this town, there is a famous bed, much vifited by travellers from London «i iid other places: it is faid to be twelve ftet fo^uare, and capable A NEW DISPLAY OF capable of containing twenty couple. This town is a great mar- ket for corn and malt : 5000 quarters of malt are often fent in a week to London by the barges, which generally return with coals. — The market is on Tuefday, and here are two fairs held, one on the laft Tuefday in April, and another on the Tuefday before St. Matthew's day. Near Ware is a fpot of ground called Lemon field, where three Roman wine veflels were dug up in 1 729. Thefe veflels were of a pale reddifh earth, and of the form of the Roman amphora, with two handles, and pointed at the bottom, for the purpofe of fixing them in the ground. They were eighteen inches below the furface, and full of tarth and chalk-ftones of the neighbouring foil. Many human bodies have been dug up hereabouts, but though the ground around them is black, they appeared not to have been burnt, and feemed by their (hallow burial to have been the relics of a battle. — On the fouth of Ware is AmwelU where the New River, of which we have already fpoken, takes its rife. HERTFORD Is at the diftance of twenty-one miles from London, and was a place of fome note in the time of the ancient Britons. The Eatt Saxon Kings often kept their courts here, and upon the firft divifion of the kingdom into counties, it was made a county town. It fent members to parlia- ment in the reign of King Edward the firft, but after the feventh of Henry the fifth, on the petition of the bailiff and burgefles to be excufed, on account of their poverty, that privilege was difcontinued till the twenty-fecond of James the firft. In the time of Henry the Seventh, the ftandard of weights and meafures was fixed here, and Queen Mary made this a corporation, by the name of bailiffs and burgefles ; and bv her charter, the number of burgefles was to have been fix- teen. In the twenty-fifth and thirty-fifth years of Queen Elizabeth, Michaelmas term was kept here, by reafon of the plague at both times in London; and that Queen granted this town a new charter. King James the Firft afterwards granted it another charter, with the ftile of mayor, burgefles, and commonalty, to have ten capital burgefles, and fixteen alfiftants, and the mayor to be chofen out of the burgefles, by both the burgefles and afiiftants; but now this town is governed by a mayor, a high fteward, who is generally a nobleman, a recorder, nine aldermen, a town clerk, cham- berlain, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 161 berlain, ten capital burgefles, and fixteen afliftants, together with two ferjeants at mace. The town cf Hertford ftands pleafantly in a fweet air and dry vale : it is built after the figure of a Roman Y, and has a caf- tle, placed between the two horns, in which is the feflions- houfe for the county. It has alfo a county gaol, and formerly had five churches, which now are reduced to two, All Saints and St. Andrew's. All Saints is fituated on the fouth fide of the town, and has a tall fpire, covered with lead, and eight good bells, befides an organ, and an handfome gallery for the mayor and aldermen of the borough, and for the governor of Chrift church hofpital in London, Who have eredcd a good houfe in this town, to receive fick and fupernumerary children ; they have alfo built a large gallery in the church, in which 200 of their children may be accommodated. St. Andrew's is only re- markable for giving its name to one of the ftreets. Here are three charity fchools, and alfo a free grammar fchool, founded by Richard Hale, Efq; in the reign of King James the Firft. The chief commodities of this town are wheat, malt, and Wool ; and it is faid to fend no lefs than 5000 quarters of malt to London weekly, by the river Lea. It is however obferved, that the magnificence of this town is much diminifhed, fince the north road from London, which went through it, was turn- ed through the town of Ware. The caftle of Hertford was built by King Alfred, to defend the town and neighbourhood againft the Danes, who carrte up in their light pinnaces from the Thames by the river Lea, as far as Ware, and erecled a fort there, whence they made fre- quent fallies to plunder and deftroy the country. The members of parliament for Hertford are chofen by the freemen in general, the mayor being the returning officer. The weekly market is on Saturday, and there are four annual fairs held here, namely, on the Saturday fortnight before Eafter, the twelfth of May, the fifth of July, and the eighth of Noverri. ber. HACKNEY. This is a very large, populous, and pleafant village, in Middlefex, on the north-eaft fide of London. It is fo remark- able for the country feats of merchants and rich citizens, that it is faid there are not lefs than an hundred gentlemens coaches kept in it. The parifh has feveral hamlets, belonging Vol, I. X to l62 A NEW DISPLAY OF to it, among which are Clapton on the north, Dorlefton and Shacklewell on the weft, and Hummerton, which leads to Hackney- marfh, on the eaft. Hackney church is an antient Gothic ftru&ure ; it was a dif- tinc"t rectory and vicarage in the year 1292, and dedicated to St. Auguftine ; but the Knights Templars having obtained a mill and other poflefliens in the parifh, they were, upon the fuppreffion of their order, granted to the Knights Templars of St. John of Jerufalem, from which the church is fuppofed to have received the prefent appellation of St. John : however, it was not prefented to by that name till after the year 1660. The living is now only a vicarage, the great tithes being in lay hands. — There are two diflenting meeting-houfes here. — At the bottom of Hackney-marfh was difcovered, fome years ago, the remains of a great ftone caufcway, which by the Roman coins found there, appears to have been one of the famous highways made^ by the Romans. It is from this place, that the coaches let to the people in London firft received their name ; for in the laft century, many perfons 6f condition redding in Hackney, and many people having gone on vifits to fee their friends there, it occafioned them often to hire horfes, or carriages ; fo that in time it became a common name for fuch horfes, coaches, and chairs, as were let out to the people of London ; and the name has now dif- fufed itfelf, not only through Great Britain, but likewife Ire- land. BETHNAL - GREEN. This is a pleafant village near London, chiefly inhabited by merchants and citizens of London, and has been long noted for private mad-houfes. The church is one of the fifty appointed to be built by acl of parliament, and ftands on the north of Spitalfields. It is a neat commodious edifice, built with brick, coped and coined with free- ftone ; and the tower, which is not high, is of the fame materials. This village was one of the hamlets of Stepney, from which parifh it was fe- parated in the late King's reign. — The old Roman military way from the Weft, pafled with it to Lea Ferry, at Old Ford. — Within this hamlet, Bonner, Bifbop of London, had for- merly a palace. MILE- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 163 M I L E - E N D Was fo called on account of its being a mile from Aid- gate ; fuch was its fituation in former times ; but at prefenC what is called Mile-end, extends above a mile in length, its fartheft extremity being bounded by Bancroft's Alms-houfes. There were in antient times feveral fmall hofpitals, here particu- larly one for lepers; but no remains of it are left. At prefent there are many good houfes at Mile -end, and more alms-houfes than are probably any where elfe to be met with, within the fame compafs of ground. The firft that deferves our notice is that called Trinity Hospital, which was founded by the corporation of the Trinity Houfe. It is a very noble, and yet not a very expen- five edifice ; but is rendered beautiful by its fituation, and the agreeable manner in which it is laid out. It confifts of two wings and a center, wherein is the chapel, which rifes confider- ably higher than the other buildings, and has an afcent to it by a handfome flight of fteps fecured by iron rails ; this chapel has large windows, and is adorned with a pediment ; behind it rifes a turret, ornamented with a clock, and crowned with a fane. On each fide of the chapel, are two fets of apartments exactly refembling the wings. The wings are low but neat buildings, with an afcent of fevt n fteps to each pair of doors, fecured by brick walls capped with ftone, and there are fix of thefe afcents to each wing, befides two in the front, and one on each fide the chapel. Be- tween each of thefe afcents is a pump fixed clofe to the wall. It is remarkable that all thefe afcents lead to the upper ftory ; there are however rooms below, but thefe are under ground, and the windows upon a level with a broad ftone pavement, that furrounds the area next the houfes. In the centre of each wing is a handfome pediment, adorned with the company's arms, with the reprefentation of ropes, anchors, and fea weeds, in open work, fpread over the face of the pediments, and the area within confifts of handfome grafs-plats, divided by gravel walks, kept in excellent order, leading down the middle, and acrofs to the centre of the area, where is a ftatue in ftone of Mr. Robert Sandes, well executed. He has a bale of goods placed behind j he ftands with his right foot upon another bale, and near his left foot is a fmall globe, and anchor. On the pe- deftal is the following infcription : X 2 To 1 64 A NEW DISPLAY OF To the memory of Captain Robert Sandes, an elder brother, and deputy matter of the corporation of Trinity Houfe, who died in 1701, and bequeathed to the poor there- of one hundred pounds ; alfo the reverfion (after two lives) of a freehold eftate in the county of Lincoln of 147I. a year, now in their poffeflion. This ftatue was erected by the cor- poration A. D. 1746. The end of each wing next the road has an empty niche, and over it is a (mall pediment, on each fide of which is placed a fmall (hip. The ground on which this hofpital ftands was given to the corporation of the Trinity-houfe by Capt. Henry Mudd, an elder brother, and the above beautiful and commodious building was erected by the company in the year 1695, for the recep- tion of twenty-eight mailers of (hips, or their widows, each of whom receives 16s. per month, 20s. a year for coals, and a gown every fecond year. Adjoining to the Trinity alms houfes are eight others, be- longing to the Drapers company, for the widows of four free- men and four failors, who have each an allowance of is. 8d. per week", with half a chaldron of coals at Michaelmas, and a gown every two years. There are are alfo near the fame place twelve alms-houfes, belonging to the Skinners company, for twelve widows, who have each an allowance of five pounds four (hillings a year, with half a chaldron of coals. Fuller's alms-houfes, founded by a judge of that name, in 1592, for twelve poor men, are in that neighbourhood. And there are alfo a few alms-houfes, for the widows of fhip roaf- ters, found d by Capt. Fiftier, who fetttled upon it a freehold of forty pounds a year. But the mod fplendid foundation of the kind here, is Ban- croft's beautiful alms houfes, fchool, and chapel; which were erected by the Drapers company in the year 1735, pur- fuant to the will of M r - Francis Bancroft, who bequeathed to that company the fum of 28,oocl. and upwards, in real and perfonal eftates, for purchafing a fite, and building upon it an alms-houfe, with convenient apartments for twenty-four alms- men, a chapel, and fchool-room for one hundred poor boys, and two dwelling houfes for the fchoolmafters, and endow- ing the fame. He alfo ordered that each of the alms-men fliould have 81. and half a chaldron of coals yearly, and a gown THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 165 gown of baize every third year ; that the fchool boys fhould be cloathed and taunht reading, writing, and arithmetic ; that each of the mailers, befides their houfes, fhould have a falary of 30I. per annum, and the yearly fum of 20I. for coals and candles, for their ufe and that of the fchool ; with a fufficient allowance for books, paper, pens and ink ; that the committee of the court of affiftants mould have 5I. for a dinner, at their annual vifitation of the alms-houfes and fchool; and that 3I. 10s. fhould be given for two half yearly fermons to be preached in the parifh churches of St. Helen and St. Michael, Cornhill, or elf-where, in comme- moration of this foundation, at which the alms-men and boys were to be prefent. To each of thefe boys, when put out apprentices, he gave 4I. but if they were put to ferviee they were to have no more than 2I. 10s. to buy them cloaths. The edifice is not only neat but extreme)" elegant, con- fiding of two wings and a center detached from both of them. In the middle of the front is the chapel, before which is a noble portico, with Ionic columns, and coupled pilafters at the corners, fupporting a pediment, in the plane of which is the dial. There is an afcent to the portico by a flight of fteps, and over the chapel is an handfome turret. On each fide of the portico, are two houfes like thofe in the wings. The conftruction of the wings is uniform, lofty and con- venient ; twelve doors in each open in a regular feries, and the windows are of a moderate fize, numerous, and proportioned to the apartments they are to enlighten. The fquare is furrounded with gravel walks, with a large grafs plat in the middle, and next the road the wall is adorned with handfome iron rails and gates. In fhort, the ends of the wings next the road being placed at a conliderable diftance from it, the whole is feen in a proper point of view, and appears to the greateft advantage. It is worthy of remark, that this Bancroft, who left fb large a fum for erecYing and endowing this fine hofpital, and even ordered two fermons to be annually preached in com- memoration of his charity, was, according to the laft edition of Stow's Survey, one of the Lord Mayor's officers, and by informations and fummoning the citizens before the Lord Mayor, upon the mod trifling occafions, and other things not belonging to his office, not only pillaged the poor, but alio many of the rich, who rather than lofe time in ap» pearing before the magiftrate, gave money to get rid of this common i66 A NEW DISPLAY OF cf>mmon peft o r the citizens, which, together with his nu- merous quarterages from the brokers, &c. enabled him to amafs annually a confiderable i'um of money. But by thefe and other mercenary practices, he fo incurred the hatred and ill will of the citizens of all ranks and denominations, that the perfons who attended his funeral obfequies, with great difficulty faved his corpfe from being joftled off the bearers fhoulders in the church, by the enraged populace, who feized the bells, and rang them for joy at his unlamented death. It is farther remarkable of this Mr. Bancroft, that he en- tertained a notion that he flbould rife from the dead, after a certain number of years, and ordered his body to be preferved Vcithina fhow-glafs, in the church of St. Helen's, Bifhopfgate- flreer, where it ftill lies, and the door is, by his directions in his laft will, fet open, during the time that the annual fermon is preached in that church in memory of himfelf. But not- withiranding thefe precautions, and the many opportunities that have been given him of changing his quarters, Mr. Bancroft ftill continues very peaceably in the place wherein he was ouginally depofited. STEPNEY Is a village near Mile-end, of great antiquity. This parifh was of fuch valr extent, and fo amazingly increafed in build- ings, as to produce the parifhes of St. Mary Stratford at Bow, St. Mary Whitechapel, St. Ann's Limehoufe, St. John's at Wapping, St. Paul's Shadwell, St. George Ratcliff Highway, Chriff Church Spitalfields, and St. Matthew's Bethnal Green ; all which have been feparated from it, and yet it ftill remains one of the largeft parifhes within the bills of mortality, and contains the hamlets of Mile-end, Old and New Towns, Ratcliff and Poplar. 1 he village of Stepney is remarkable for its church, and the great number of tomb-ftones, both in that edifice and its fpa- cious cemetry. It has alfo an independant meeting houfe, and analms-houfe. The village however is but fmall, and confifts of few houfes befides thofe of public entertainment ; many people of both fexes reforting thither on Sundays, and at Eafter and Witfun-holidays, to eat Stepney buns, and to regale them- felves with ale, cyder, &c. There was a church here fo long ago as the time of the Saxons, when it was called the church of all Saints, Ecclefia omnium Sanflorum-, and we read of the manor of Sepney under THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 167 under the reign of William the Conqueror, by the name of Stibenhede, or Stiben's-Heath ; but it does not appear when the church changed its name by being dedicated to St. Dunftan, the name it now bears. When the prefent church was erecled is not recorded ; the wall and battlements are built of brick and wrought ftone, plaftered over ; and the roof is covered with lead. It is of a very confiderable extent, for it is an hundred and four feet long, though it is no more than fifty-four broad ; tfo« height of the roof is thirty-five feet, and that of the tower, with its turret, ninety-two feet. The pillars, arches and windows, are of a modern Gothic, and the weft porch, buite in 1 6 10, has no refemblance to the reft of the buitdiisg, it being of the Tufcan order. The tower, which is plain and heavy, is fupported at the corners by a kind of double buttreffes ; it is crowned with . fquare plain battlements* without pinnacles, and with a fmall mean turret ; and the fame kind of battlements are carried round the body of the church. On the infide are three galleries and an organ, and the altar- piece is adorned with four Corinthian pilafters, with their en- tablature and a pediment; thefe have gilt capitals; with the arms of Queen Anne carved ; but what is moft fingular is a ftone on the eaft fide of the portico, leading up to the gallery, on which is the following infcription. Of Carthage great I was a ftone, O mortals read with pity ! Time confumes all, it fpareth none, Men, mountains, towns, nor city : Therefore O mortals ! all bethink You whe r e unto you muft, Since now fuch ftately buildings Lie buried in the duft. It is probable this ftone was really brought from Carthage, otherwise this infcription would fcarcely be permitted to be there; but as a modern author obferves, it is to be hoped, that he who ordered it to be fixed there did not go to Carthage on purpofe to fetch it. Among the great number of tomb-ftones in this church- yard, there is a very handfome one to the memory of Sir John Leake, an eminent Englifh Admiral. And at the eaft- end of the church-yard, near the church, is a monument of 3 white r68 A NEW DISPLAY OF white marble, adorned with a cherub, urn, palm-branches and a coat of arms, under which is the following infcrip- tion : Here lieth interred the body of Dame Rebecca Berry, the wife of Thomas Elton of Stratford Bow, Gent, who departed this life April 16, 1696, aged 52. Come ladies, you that would appear Like angels fair, come drefs you here 5 Come drefs you at this marble ftone And make that humble Grace your own, Which once adorned as fair a mind, As e'er yet lodg'd in woman kind. So fhe was drefs 'd, whofe humble life Was free from pride, was free from ftrife : Free from all envious brawls and jars (Of human life the civil wars) Thefe ne'er difturb'd her peaceful mind, Which ftill was gentle, ftill was kind. Her very looks, her garb, her mien, Difclos'd the humble mind within. Trace her through ev'ry fcene of life, View her as widow, virgin, wife, Still the fame humble fhe appears, The fame in youth, the fame in years ; The fame in low and high eftate, Ne'er vex'd with this, ne'er mov'd with that. Go, ladies, now, and if you'd be 1 As fair, as great, as good as fhe, > Go learn of her humility. J Near the fouth fide of the church on a marble tomb- ftone, adorned with a coat of arms, are the following lines on Capt. Thomas Chevers, his wife, and a fon, who died at five days old. Reader, confider well how poor a fpan, And how uncertain is the life of man : Here lie the hufband, wife, and child, by death All three in five days timedepriv'd of breath. The child dies firff, the mother on the morrow Follows, and then the father dies with forrow. A Csefar falls by many wounds, well may Two ftabs at heart the ftouteft captain flay. THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 169 On a ftone near the foot path on the north weft fide, is the following infeription : Whoever treadeth on this ftone, I pray you tread moft neatly, For underneath the fame doth lie Your honeft friend Will. Wheatly. The laft infeription we (hall mention is the following fhort one, on the fouth-weft fide of the church. Here lies the body of Daniel Saul, Spittkfields weaver, and that is all. POPLAR. This is a hamlet of Stepney, fituated on the Thames, and obtained its name from the great number of poplar trees that anciently grew there. The chapel of Poplar was erected in the year 1654^ when the ground upon which it was built, together with the church yard, were given by the Eaft India ■company, and the edifice erected by the voluntary contribu- tions of the inhabitants and others ; hnce which time that Company has not only allowed the Minifter a convenient dwelling houfe, with a garden and field containing about three acres, but has allowed him 20I. per annum during plea- fur e. Poplar Marfli, called the Ifle of Dogs, from the great noife made by the King's hounds that were kept there during the refidence of the royal family at Greenwich, is rather an ifthmus than an ifland, and is reckoned one of the richeft fpots of ground in England j for it not only raifes the largeft cattle, but the grafs it bears is efteemed a great reftorative of all diftempered cattle. Here are two alms houfes, befides an hofpital belonging to the Eaft India company Blackwall is chiefly noted for fhip carpenters, and other artifts employed in making utenfils for the navy, and is one of the greateft rendezvous of the Eaft -India (hips. S T R A T F O R D-LE-fi O W. This is a village in Middlefex, commonly known by the name of Bow, a little to the eaft of Mile end, and is divided from Stratford in Effex by the river Lea, over which there is a ftone- bridge, of which we have already made men- Vol. I. Y tion*. A NEW DISPLAY OF tion*. The church is very ancient, being built by Henry II. ad- joining to which is a good free-fchool. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth this village was noted for bakers ; for it is faid that all the perfons of that profeffion who fupplied London with bread, then refided here. From hence it was carried to London in carts, and fold to the people at their own doors. There is at prefent a confiderable manufactory carried on here, for making of porcelain, which is brought to fuch perfection as to be little inferior to that of China. There are alfo great numbers of fc.^rlet dyers and callico printers refide here, for the conveniency of water and grounds to dry their clothes. There is a fair held here in Whitfun-week. — A little to the fouth of this village is another named Bromley\ which is pleafantly fituated, wherein there are many handfome houfes. HAVING defcribtd the moft remarkable places, public edifices, royal palaces, and feats, within the ftiftanceof twenty miles round 1 Ondon, we fhall now proceed to treat of other parts of the kingdom, and to give an account of fuch other places, elegant feats, and fplendid edifices, and other curious particulars, as may be moft deferving the attention of the inquifitive reader. CHELMSFORD. This is a confiderable town in the county of Eflex, which is fituated at the confluence of two rivers, the Chelmer and the Cann ; from the former of which it derived its name. It is the county town, and is diftant from London twenty- nine mdes. The town confifts but of four ftreets, but is re- gular and well built. The entrance to it from the London road js overan old ftone bridge, built by Maurice, Bifhop of Lon- don in the reign of Henry the Firit. As foon as this is parted over, a fpacious ftreet prefents itfelf to the view of the traveller, at the upper end of which, upon a little alcent, ftands the (hire-houfe. Each ftreet lies with an eafy defcent towards the centre, and is wafhed with a current of clear water. The Chelmer and the Cann form here an angle ; along which lie many pleafure gardens, and fome of them are agreeably laid put. In an open place nearly a fquare, adjoining to the (hire- houfe, * See page 55, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. i 7 i houfe, {lands .a conduit. It is of a quadrangular form, about fifteen feet high, built with ftone and b.ick : it has four pipes, on each fide, from which the pureft water is perpetually flow- ing. The following infcription is on the fide that fronts the part from whence the fpring rifes. ' This conduit in one * minute runs one hogfhead and a half, and four gallons and a * half. In one day 2262 hogfheads and 54 gallons. In one * month 63,360 hogfheads. And in one year 825,942 hogf- * heads and 54 gallons.' The aflizes, general quarter feflions, and other county courts, are held at Chelmsford ; and likewife are held the elections for the knights of the (hire; and here Hands the county gaol. The great road from London to Colchefter, to Harwich, to Suffolk, and many parts of Norfolk, lies through this town ; fo that it is furnifhed with feveral good inns. Ad- joining to the fhire-houfe is a good market place, where a market is held every Friday, fupplied with corn, meat, fifli, fowls, &c. The church is an handfome ancient ftruclure, fituated at the end of the town. There are feveral handfome monuments in it eredled in memory of theMildmay family; one in particular for Benjamin Mildmay, Earl of Fitz- waiter. — There is a good free-fchool in this town, which was founded by King Edward the Sixth, befides two other charity- fchools. Sir William Mildmay, Bart, has a very handfome feat near this town, known by the name of Moulsham Hall, ic is pieafantly fituated on an eafy afcent, about a quarter of a mile on the eaft fide of Chelmsford. The grand front com- mands Danbury-hill. It is a very regular edifice, and on the top of it are three ftatues, rep.refenting Diana, Apollo, and Mercury ; under thefe are the family arms in baflb relievoj carved in free-ftone. The other parts of the houfe have a view of the London road, of the town of Chelmsford, and of the park and gardens. It was rebuilt by the late Earl of Fitzwalter, and was fo conftrucled as to be at once elegant and commodious. The pilaflers, cornices, entablatures, and other decorations, are of ftone. In the, in fide is a quadrangular court flagged. It has a gallery on each floor round it, by which means an eafy accefs is obtained to all the different apartments, without the inconveniency of making any of them a paflage. The principal rooms are large and wejl difpofed. The grand hall at the entrance is lofty, and the cieling curioufly Y 2 wrought 172 A NEW DISPLAY OF wrought with fret-work. In the breakfaft room ate many pictures of the Mildmay family, fome of which ate Well exe- cuted. Among thefe are Sir William Mildmay, who was chancellor of the exchequer in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and founder of Emanuel College, Cambridge. The great picture room contains feveral family portraits ; and here is alfo a good piece of the old Duke of Schombergb, on horfeback, attended by a black who carries his helmet. In the little picture room contiguous to this, are fome good paintings : on the right hand the door, is feen an half length of an old woman in a white hood, wbofe diftorted features (hew the utmoft dif- trefs. Upon her fhoulder a caterpillar is feen crawling, which is faid not only to have caufed the violent agitation apparent in her face, but alfo her death. Here is alfo an antique painting of Matilda, daughter to the Lord Robert FitzWalter, who was faid to be poifoned in the abbey of Dunmow by King John. And in another room here, is a picture of one Sir Henry Mildmay, a branch of this family, reprefenting him as dead and hid out, covered with a black velvet pall. It is faid that he died abroad, and that a faithful fervant, who ac- companied him, employed a limner to draw him after his deceafe. It is fo well done, as to ftrike the beholder with fome degree of horror j and for this reafon has been removed from the collection to an anti chamber. — The gardens belonging to this feat are neatly laid out, and here is alfo a park prettily dif- pofed. Facing Moulfham hall are fix alms-houfe, which were founded by Sir Thomas Mildmay, Bart, and Anne his wife, for fix poor people. And at a little diflance from hence there was formerly an houfe of Dominican friars. The build- ing was very ftrong, being a compofition of brick, flint, and free-done. The kitchen remained till within thefe few years, and was efteemed a great curiofity ; the room being fupported and decorated in the manner of the theatre in Oxford. The fite of it is now called the Friars. — In a field called Long- flumps, between Moulfham hall and Gailywood common, formerly flood a chapel, which, belonged to the abbey of St. Ofyth. NEW-HALL. This feat is now th« property of Lord. Waltham, and 1*3 Stuated in the parifb of Boreham, which is three miles from Chelmsford. It is not certainly known by whom this edifice was ereiSted 5. but it is fuppofed to have been built by Butler, Earl THE BEAUtlES OF ENGLAND. 173 Earl of Ormond, in the reign of King Henry VII. It was once made a place of royal refidence by King Henry VIII. who in 1524 kept the feaft of St. George here. It after- wards came into the pofleffion of George Monk, Duke of Al- bemarle, famous for the fhare he had in bringing about the Reftoration, Who lived here in great pomp. The late Lord Waltham took down a corifiderable part of this great edifice, arid yet referved enough of it to make a noble and commodious country feat for himfelf, to which he added feveral new offices. It iriuft, indeed, in its primitive grandeur, have been a houfe of extraordinary fize, if what is very confidently faid be true, namely, that what is now left is only one tenth part of the original building. The great hall is one of the nobleft in the kingdom. At the entrance of it 'the beholder is (truck with its grandeur, it being upwards of forty feet high, ninety in length, and fifty wide. Qppofite to the grand entrance, is another door, which formerly led into a fpacious court: over this are the arms, of Henry VIII. done in baflb relievo in free ftone, and well exe- cuted. The prefent Lord Waltham has greatly improved this feat, and is now laying out the gardens and park with much tafte. He has made a noble piece of water in the new gardens behind the houfe, and eredted near it a good green-houfe. He has likewife added to the other buildings a new wing for (tables and coach-houfes. The avenue which leads from the great road to the houfe is near a mile long, and has double rows of lofty trees on each fide. It is reckoned the fineft io England, and gives a very venerable air to this magnificent manfion. In the fame parilTi, Richard Hoare, Efq. an eminent banker in London, has a fine feat. It is beautifully fituated at the lop of an avenue of trees, between which is a fine piece of Water, extending from the road nearly to the houfe. The houfe it felf is not very large, but of an elegant conftru<5tion, built of white brick ; the iniide is adorned with marble chimney pieces, and other decorations, the fpoils of the ancient manfion of New- hall. The gardens are prettily difpofed behind it; from thefe runs a delightful lawn down to the banks of the Chelmer, which, together with Danbury-hiil, and various other beautiful objects that here meet the eye, fumifh a molt agreeable landfcape. Borcbain church is an ancient edifice, and there are here the Jernaiiis of a fine monument in the Suftex chapel, which was '74 A NEW DISPLAY OF was erected to perpetuate the memory of the noble family of that name. There are three alabafter figures of Robert JtadclifF, Henry RadclifY, and Thomas Radcliff, Earls of Suffex ; and in the vault, which is very neat, are twelve coffins, containing the remains of thefe noblemen, and others of the fame family. Some of them have infcriptions on one fide, and a ftar and garter on the other. Others are caft in a human fhape, with eyes, nofe, mouth, &c. This ancient chapel and monument were for many years in a ruinous ftate, it being a fubjecl of difpute to whom it belonged to preferve and repair them. But Richard Hoare, Efq. having obtained a faculty to convert the chapel in to a place of interment for his family, has repaired it for that purpofe at a confiderable ex- pence. In the church-yard is erected a Maufoleum for the Waltham family, in the imitation of the Temple of the Winds at Athens. It was built with white brick and ftone : the remains of the late Lord Waltham are here depofited. About three miles from Chelmsford is the parifh of Widfordy wherein John Richard Comyns, Efq. has an handfome feat. It is a neat modern built houfe, furrounded by a good park and pleafant gardens, well watered. It is called Highlands, from the loftinefs of its fituation j which circumftance renders it very delightful, from the feveral pleafing profpecls it com- mands. It was erected by the late Sir John Comyns, Chief Baron of the Exchequer. INGATESTONE. This is a market-town in Eflex, fix miles from Chelms- ford, and twenty three from London. It confifts chiefly of inns, being a poft town, and the great thoroughfare to Nor- folk, Suffolk, Harwich, and Colchefter. A confiderable market for live cattle is held here every Wednefday ; and a very large fair is annually held here on the firft of De- cember, the principal commodity of which is alfo live cattle. Ingatejlone Hall, the property of Lord Petre, is a venerable ftately pile of building, having within a fpacious court, and before it is another, round which are the offices. It lies very low, but upon that account is well fupplied with wa- ter, and flcred with fifh-ponds ; and the gardens are laid out in an elegant manner. — In the fame parifh is alfo a very good modern built houfe, called the Hide; which was built THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 175 hy the late Timothy Brand, Efq; who was high-fheriff of the county of Eflex in 1721, and it is now in poflefiion of Thomas Brand, Efq. Ingateftone church is a good brick edifice, and contains fome handfome monuments in memory of the Petre family. In the parifh of Margaretting^ which joins to Ingateftone and Widford, Richard Holden, Efq; has a pleafant manfion- houfe, known by the name of Cold Hall, It is an elegant modern building, (ituated on an eminence, with gardens well laid out. — There is alfo in this parifh, on the left hand fide of the road leading from Chelmsford to Ingateftone, a very good houfe belonging to Humphrey Sidney, Efq. Before the houfe is a pleafant avenue of ftately trees. — There is a manor in this parifh, named Shenfield, which is faid to be one of the houfes of pleafure where King Henry VlII. ufed to refort to his mif- trefles. The houfe lay in a bottom, had many large buildings about it, and was furrounded by a moat. It had a draw bridge, at the extremity of which were two ftrong watch-towers, of brick ; and there was a chapel adjoining to the houfe. But mod of the Original buildings, if not all, are now pulled down, and it is become the habitation of a private gen- tleman. Tradition fays, that there was more than one place in the county of Effex, fo which Henry VIII. ufed occafionally to retire with his miftrefles. At fome diftance from hence is the parifh of Blackmore, which he is reported to have made ufe of for his amorous retreats. The manor houfe of Blackmore is alfo called Jericho ; and we are told, that when Harry chofe to retreat from public bufinefs, and indulge himfelf in the em- braces of his courtezans, the cant phrafe among the courtiers was, '« He was gone to Jericho." He is alfo faid to have made ufe of Newland-hall in this county for the fame purpofe. But, in truth, much more is faid of Henry's miftrefles by the traditionary reports of the people of Effex, than is to be met with in our hiftorians. In the parifh of Great lVakham> which is about four miles from Chelmsford, John Jolliff Tuffnel, Efq; ha3 an handfome feat, about a quarter of a mile from the church, known by the name of Langleys. It ftands on a pleafant eminence ; the foot and fides of which are wafhed by the river Chelmer on the north, and a brook on the fouth. There is a good park around it and pleafant gardens. Great WaJtham church is 2 a ftrong 176 A NEW DISPLAY OF a ffrong brick building, and contains fome hatidfome monu- ments. W I T H A M. This is a neat and pleafant town, about thirty-feven miles from London, and between eight and nine from Chelmsford. It is a poft-town, and contains fome good inns. It has a mar- ket for grain on Tuefdays, and two fairs are held here an- nually, one on the Monday before Whitfunday, and the other on the 14th of September. — Edward, the fon of King Alfred, commonly called Edward the Elder, built this town in the be r ginningof his reign, and refided at Maiden during the time it § building. Witham church ftands upon an eminence, ; fb ut half a mile weft from the town. The walls both of the church and fteeple, are r>f Roman flint, except the top of the tower, which is brick. There are fome monuments in the church, two of which are ancient. At the entrance into Witham from the Colchefter road, up; 'ii the left hand, is a good houfe and gardens belonging to the Earl of Abercorn y and General Douglas has alfo an hand- fome houfe in the fame parifh. In the parifli of Great Bracktead, which is about three miles from Witham, Peter Du Cane, Efq; has an elegant feat, culled B-axted Lodge. It is furrounded by a park, and ftands upon an eminence which commands an agreeable profpe£r, of the neighbouring country. Charles Buxton, Efq; has alfo a good houfe in the fame parifh, with fpacious gardens well watered. Kelvedon is four miles from Witham, and about a mile from the former is Falix HrJ.U the feat of Daniel Matthews, Efq. It is a handfome edifice, fituated on an eminence, and around it is a frnall paik. The gardens are laid out with elegance, and have in them green-houfes, and hot houfes, and every other requilite to render them ufefui as well as pleafing. COGGESHALL. This is a market-town in Effex, about feven miles, from Witham, and forty- four from London. It ftands partly on the declivity of a hill, and is plcafantly fituated; and is pretty THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 177 pretty large and populous. Here is a market on Thurfday for corn, and an annual fair on Whitfun Tuefday. The church is a fpacious and lofty edifice) and ftands pleafantly at the upper end of the town, having a good profpe& fouth- ward. Hereabouts have been found the remains of fome antient lit— 'tie Roman ftation, or villa, adjoining to the road which leads to the town. An arched vault of brick was difcovered, and in it a burning lamp of glafs, covered with a Roman tile, about fourteen inches fquare, and an urn with afhes and bones, and other antiquities. — Ofgood Hanbury, Efq; has a good feat, with a park, near this town, known by the name of Oldjield Grange. An Abbey was founded at Coggefhall, in the year 1142, by King Stephen, and his Queen Maud, for Ciftercian or White Monks, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The remains of the abbey ftands within the precin&s of Little Coggefhall, near the river ; it was a Gothic edifice, but is now moftly de- molifhcd. In the pariQi of Markjhall, which is two miles from Cog- gefhall, General Honeywood, who is Lord of the Manor, has a fine feat. It is an handfome edifice, pleafantly fituated near the church, on a rifing ground. The gardens, park, and fifh- ponds, contribute to make it a very pleafant retirement. In the dining-room is an original painting of Mrs; Mary Waters, or Honeywood, in a widow's habit. This memorable perfon was born at Lenham, in Kent, and is faid to have continued forty- four years a widow, and then arriving at the age of ninety-three, faw 367 children lawfully defcended from her, 16 of her own body, 1 14 grand-children, 228 in the third generation, and nine in the fourth. BRAINTREE. This town is about fix miles from Coggefhall, and forty irom London ; and is a great thoroughfare from London into Suffolk and Norfolk. The buildings are moftly old, and of timber j but fomewhat improved of late by a few new ones of brick and plaifler. Here is a market every Wednefday, well fupplied with all kinds of neceffaries, and at which vaft quan- tities of corn, malt, and hops, are fold by fample. Two fairs are held here annually ; one on the fecond of Oclober, which holds three days j and the other on the eighth of May, which Z Ms 178 A NEW DISPLAY OF lafts the fame time ; the principal traffic of which is live cattle, butter, and cheefe. In the parifti of Black Not ley, which is at a little diftance from Braintree, there is a handfome monument in the church- yard, in memory of that celebrated naturalift, Mr. John Ray, which was ereited at the expence of Henry Compton, Bi- ftiop of London. Mr. Ray was born at Black Notley, be- ing the fon of a blackfmith there* and was alfo interred there in 1706. BOOKING. This is one of the moft confiderable villages in the county of Eflex : it confilts chiefly of one ftreet, in which the baize- trade is carried on to a very great amount. The church is a fpacious building, fituated upon an eminence. Here is alfo a large meeting-houfe, and another belonging to the Qua- kers.-— —An urn of old coins, moftly Vefpafion's, was fome time fince found in the grounds belonging to High Garret, in this parifti. In the parifti of Gorsfield, Lord Clare has a very hand- fome feat, known by the name of Gorsfield Hall. It is fituated at a fmall diftance from the church, and is furrounded by an extenfive park, and has alfo elegant gardens. D U N M O W. This is a very antient town, fituated pleafantly on a hill, at the diftance of thirty-feven miles from London. The trade of this place is inconfiderable, but a manufacture of bays and blankets is carried on here. In the center of the town ftands what is called the market-crofs, which is a very antient edifice : and over againft this is the guildhall, in which the town officers meet to tranfa£t the corporation-bufinefs. The market is on Saturday, and here are two fairs held, for toys only, one of which is on the fixth of May, and the other on the eighth of November. The church ftands near a mile north from the main ftreet, in a bottom, and is a large neat building. In the parifti of Little Dunmow, which is two miles from the town of Dunmow, there was formerly a priory. It ftood in a delightful fituation, but is now entirely decayed. In this priory were maintained a prior, and ten or eleven canons regular, of the order of St. Auguftine.— — Amongft THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 179 the jocular tenures of England, none have been more talked or than the Bacon of Dunmow. It does not appear who inftituted this cuftom, but it is generally fuppofed to be one of the family of Fitzwalter. The prior and canons were obliged to deliver the bacon to the perfon who took the follow- ing oath, * You (hall fwear, by cuftom of confefllon, 4 That you ne'er made nuptial tranfgreflion ; 4 Nor fmceyou were married Man and Wife, 4 By houfhold brawls or contentious ftrife, * Or otherwife, in bed or at board, 4 Offended each other in deed or word ; 4 Or fince the parifti clerk faid Amen, * Wifhed yourfelves unmarried agen j 4 Or in a twelvemonth and a day 4 Repented not in thought any way, 4 But continued true in thought and defire 4 As when you joined hands in holy quire ; 4 If to thefe conditions without all fear 4 Of your own accord you will freely fwear, 4 A whole Gammon of Bacon you fhall receive 4 And bear it hence with love and good leave. 4 For this is our cuftom at Dunmow well known, 4 Though the pleafure be ours, the bacon's your own.* After this oath was taken, the claimant of the bacon was taken in a chair provided for the purpofe, and ftill kept in the church, and carried firft about the priory church-yard, and after through the town, with all the priory brethren, his ba- con being borne before him, and the town's people attending with fhouts and acclamations j and in this manner he was con- veyed home. In the chartulary or regifter-book of this priory, now preferved in the Briiijh Mufeum y there are entries and me- morandums of perfons who have at feveral times received the bacon ; namely, Richard Wright, of Badeburgh, near Norwich, yeoman, in 1445. Samuel Fuller, of Little Eaft- on, husbandman, in 1467. Thomas Fuller, of Coggefhall, in 1510. Since the fuppreffion of the priory this cuftom is ftill kept up, and the ceremony is performed at a court baron for this manor by the fteward, of which the following are jnftances : — 4 At a court-baron of Sir Thomas May, Knight, Z 2 4 held ?8o A NEW DISPLAY OF % held 7 June, 1701, before Thomas Wheeler, gent, ftew- * ard, the homage being five fair ladies, fpinfters, namely, * Elizabeth Beaumonr, Henrietta Beaumont, Annabella Beau- ' mont, Jane Beaumont, and Mary Wheeler ; they found * that John Reynolds, of Hatfield Broad Oak, gent, and * Anne his wife, and William Parfley, of Great Eafton, * butcher, and his wife Jane, by means of their quiet and ' peaceable, tender and loving cohabitation for the fpace of ' three years laft paft and upwards, were fit and qualified e perfons to be admitted by the court to receive the an- * cient and accuftomed oath, whereby to entitle themfelves * to have the Bacon of Dunmow delivered to them accord- * ing to the cuftom of the manor. Accordingly having taken ' the oath, kneeling on the two great {tones near the church * door, the bacon was delivered to each couple.' The laft who received it were John Shakefhanks, wool comber, and Anne his wife, of Wethersfield, on the twentieth of June, T H A X T E D Is an ancient town in Effex, fix miles from Dunmow, and forty-two from London. There is but little trade in this place ; but here are two fairs annually, one held on the 10th of Auguft and the other on the Sunday after the Afcenfion, This town is chiefly remarkable for its church, which is the fineft in the county. It is a noble Gothic building j and the length of it is an hundred and eighty-three feet, and the breadth eighty-feven feet, in the infide, exclufive of the thick- nefs of the walls, and the projection of the buttrefTes. It is three hundred forty-five feet in circumference. It is built ca- thedral-wife, with a crofs ifle ; and confifts of a fpacious and lofty body witli north and fouth ifles. At the weft end ftands a noble tower, and fpire, all of free-ftone, the perpendicular height of which, from the fummit of the vane to the ground- floor, is fixty yards, and one foot. S AFFRON WALDEN. This is a large and populous town, fevcn miles from Thaxted, and forty-two from London. The neighbouring fields were formerly chiefly appropriated to the cultivation of faftron, from which circumftance it derived part of its name ; but that plant is now chiefly cultivated more weftward, in THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 181 and about the confines of Cambridgefhire. Saffron is faid to have been firft brought into Effex in the reign of King Ed- ward III. and EfTex and Cambridgefhire faffron is accounted the beit in the world. There is a great deal of the malting bu- fmefs carried on at Saffron Walden ; here is likewife a manu- facture for bolting cloth';, and for checks and fuftians. Many of the poor are employed in the making of facks, and in fpin- ning of fine yarn, for the manufactories in Norwich. Many of the inhabitants are Diffenters, who have a meeting-houfe for the Independents, another for the Baptifts, and a third for the Quakers. It has a large market weekly on Saturday, and two fairs annually ; one on the Sunday in Mid-lent, for horfes, &c and the other on the firft of November, for cows, &c. — The church is an ancient and ftately ftructure, fituated near- ly in the center of the town. On the fouth fide of the chan- cel are fteps which lead to a vault, the burial place of the Suffolk family. The remains of fix Earls of Suffolk are depofited here, and of others of the fame noble fami- ly. And under the fouth arch of the chancel is an ele- gant altar monument, erected to the memory of Lord Aud- ley, High Chancellor of England, in the reign of King Henry the Eighth There was a priory founded here in 1136, by Geoffrey de Mandeville, Earl of Effex ; and in the year 1 190, it was con- verted into an abbey. The fcite of it was near the great pond by the bowling green at Saffron Walden, where foundations and bones have been dug up. About a mile fouth of Saffron Walden is Audley House, or as it is more frequently called, Audley End, which is at prefent the feat of Sir John Griffin Griffin, who is Colonel of the thirty-third regiment of foot, and a Lieutenant-Gene- ral. It was built by Thomas Lord Audley of Walden, who was created Earl of Suffolk by King James the Firft, to whom he was Treafurer. The Earl defigned it as a Palace for his Majefty, and when it was finiihed prefented it to him ; but the King, when he faw its vaft extent and magnificence, faid that " it would fuit very well a Lord Treafurer, but was too " much for a King." It remained therefore in the poffeffion of the Earls of Suffolk during that and the fucceeding reign, but it was afterwards purchafed by King Charles the Second ; who, not being able to pay for it, mortgaged the hearth tax to the then Earls, as a fecurity for the money. This tax was taken off foon after the Revolution, but the ftate not being 2 then J 82 A NEW DISPLAY OF then in a condition to pay the money for which it had been pledged, the houfe was granted back again to the family. It was then the largeft royal palace in the kingdom ; the expence of building it is faid to have amounted to ninety thoufand pounds. The mere model of it in wood is faid to have coft five hundred pounds. It confifted of two courts, one of which, and part of the other, including a gallery 226 feet long, 32 wide, and 24 high, were taken down by Henry Earl of Suf- folk between fixty and feventy years ago. The part of ic which is now remaining is only a fourth of its original extent. Before the weft front of it are many lawns, rifing to the view, and watered by the river Cam, cut in the form of a fine canal, over which are two elegant bridges. The eaft front commands an extenfive park, walled in, and a view of the church and town of Saffron Walden. The fouth fide looks into a curious piece of clumped pleafure ground, called the Mount Garden ; and the north into a lawn, feverai plantations, and a neighbour- ing village. At Ajhdon, about three miles north-weft of Saffron Walden, there are four barrows, or pyramidical hills, which were erect- ed bv Canute the Dane, over the bodies of thofe who were killed in a battle which was fought here, and in which Canute totally defeated the army of Edmund Ironfide, and took molt of the nobility who attended him prifoners. One of thefe hills being dug into or opened, there were found, in a ftone coffin, two bodies, one of which lay with his head towards the other's feet j alfo two other ftone coffins were found with pieces of bones in them, and many chains of iron, about the fize of thofe belonging to horfes bits. At Chejlerford) a village four miles north of Saffron Wal- den, fome years ago the ruins of a Roman city were difcovered ; the foundation of the walls take in a compafs of about fifty acres j and the foundations of a Roman temple were not long fince very vifible. In the parifh of Had/lock, which joins to that of Aflidon, is a very antient church, the north door of which is much adorned with thick bars of iron work, of an irregular form, underneath which is a fort of a fkin, faid to be that of a Danifh King : it is nailed on with large nails. There is a tradition about the church door of Copford parifh, which is about five miles from Colchefter, of which Mr. Newcourt gives us the following account. He fays, it THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 183 it was * taken notice of in the year 1690, when an old man < at Colchefter hearing Copford mentioned, faid, that in his * young time, he heard his mafter fay, that he had read in * an old hiftory, that the church of Copford was robbed by * the Danes, and their fkins nailed to the doors ; upon which, 4 feme gentlemen being curious, went thither, and found a * fort of tanned fkin, thicker than parchment, which is fup- * pofed to be, human (kin, nailed to the door of the faid church, * underneath the laid iron-work, fume of which fkin is Hill to ' be leen. 5 CASTLE HED1NGHAM. This place, which is about forty-eight miles from Lon- don, was the caftle and chief feat of the noble family of De Vere, Earls of Oxford, on which account the appellation of caftle is prefixed to it. The greater part of the caftle is demolifhed ; but the remaining tower is one hundred and ten feet, from the ground to the top of the four-fquare turrets at the corners. It is faid there were three other towers, and in its perfe£ (fate this caftle appears to have been very lofty and mag- nificent. Queen Maud, wife of King Stephen, died in this caftle. It was reckoned a place of great ftrength before the invention of gunpowder. It held out fome time againft King John, in 1215 ; and againft the Dauphin Lewis, who had been in- vited over by fome of the Barons in 121 7. — It was at this caf- tle that King Henry the Seventh, whofe avaricious character is well known, made John De Vere, Earl of Oxford, pay fo extravagantly for having had the honour of entertaining him. The King having been feafted in a very fumptuous manner by the Earl, at his going away the Earl's fervants and tenants flood in their livery coats, with cognizances, ranged on both fides, and made the King a lane to pafs through them. Upon this Henry called the Earl to him, and faid, «* My Lord, I have *' heard much of your hofpitalky, but I fee it is greater than " the fpeech. Thefe handfome gentlemen and yeomen, which " I fee on both fides of me, are fure your menial fervants." The Earl fmiled and faid, " It may pleafe your Grace, " that were not for mine eafe. They are moft of them my ** retainers, who are come to do me fervice at fuch a time as *' this, and chiefly to fee your Grace." The King ftarted a little, and faid, " By my faith, my Lord, I thank you for my " good cheer, but I may not endure to have my laws broken " in 184 A NEW DISHAY OF 44 in my fight. My attornsy mud fpeak with you.* 8 And accordingly the King obliged him to pay a fine of fifteen thouland marks, for a breach* of the ftatute ag-ainft retainers. Hedingham Caftle is now the property of Sir Harry Hogh- ton, Bart, who lately diftinguifhed himfelf fo honourably in the Houfe of Commons, in the promotion of religious liberty; and who has a handfome modern edifice here, in which he occafion- ally refides. The village is a neat and healthy place, and there are three fairs held here, one on the 3d of May, another on the 23d of July, and the third on the 6th of December. — Sir Harry Hoghton has erected a ftrong bridge of brick here, con- fiding of three arches, at his own expence. A religious houfe was founded in this parifti, for black-veiled Tjuns, of the Benedi&ine order, by Alberic de Vere, the firft Earl of Oxford. The nunnery-houfe is flill in being, but con- vet ted into a farm-houfc, andmoft of the church or chapel be- longing to it, is ftill (landing. In the middle of the chancel of Cattle Hedingham church, is an handfome and curious marble tomb, containing the re- mains of John de Vere, the fifth Earl of Oxford of that name. There are alfo fome other handfome monuments in the church. — There is a meeting-houfe in this parifti, and Peter Muilman, Efq; has a good feat here, known by the name of Kirby Hall. The parifti of Hedingham Sible joins to this, and in the wall of the fouth ifle of the church there, is part of a fuperb arch, which formerly contained a magnificent monument in memory of Sir John Hawkwood, who was a very remarkable perfon, and who was born here. He was the fon of Gilbert Hawk - wood, a tanner of this place ; and was bound apprentice to a taylor in the city of London, where being prefled into the fervice of King Edward the Third, then about to make war in France, he behaved himfelf fo gallantly, that he was firft made a Captain, and then Knighted by that Prince. When the French war was at an end, he offered his fervice to the Hates of Florence, in which he fignalized himfelf fo much, - that Barnaby Galeazo, Duke of Milan, gave him his daughter Domnia to wife, by whom he had a fon, who was born in Italy, but naturalized and Knighted in England, in the reign of Henry IV. — Sir John Hawkwood died in a very advanced age in 1394, and was buried in the cathedral church of Santa Maria Florida THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 185 Florida at Florence, where that republic, out of gratitude to his memory and extraordinary deferts, have honoured him with a ftatue on horfeback, and a noble monument. — A manor in the parifli of Sible Hedingham, called Hawkfiuoocfs manor, de- rives its name from this eminent man. In the parifh of Bulmer, which is at a fmall diftance, Ro- bert Andrews, Efq; has an handfome feat, known by the name of Auberies. It is a modern, regular, and uniform brick building, and is fituated upon an eminence, \vhich commands a delightful profpedr, of the borough of Sudbury, and of fome part of Cambridgefhire. It is adorned with gardens laid out in a pleafing tafte, and has feveral ponds belonging to it, well flocked with fifh. HA LSTEAD. This is a pleafant and healthy town In Efiex, at the diftance of forty-feven miles from London, fituated on the fide of a hill, the foot of which is watered by the river Colne. There are many hops produced here, for the excellency of which this towi\ is famous ; and a manufactory for bays is eftablifhed here. A market is held every Friday, and two fairs annually, one on the 6th of May, and the other on the 29th of O&ober, for cattle, hops, and toys- Here is a grammar- fchool, which waS founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In the parifh of Great Maplejlead, which is about three miles from Halflead, Henry Sperling, Efq; has an handfome fear, known by the name of Dynes Hall. The houfe is an hand- fome edifice, a mile fouth of the church, and fituated upon arr eminence, commanding a beautiful profpeft. The gardens be- longing to it are elegant. COLCHESTER. This is a very ancient town, in the north-eaft part of the county of EiTex, at the diftance of about fifty-one miles from London. It ftands upon the north fide of a find eminence, rifing gradually from the river Colne, which wa- ters the north and eaft fides. It is the moft confiderable town in the county, and is governed by a mayor, high— fteward, recorder, eleven aldermen, eighteen common coun- eil-men, and other corporation officers. It Was laft incorpora- ted by King William the Third, and is a liberty of ftfeK, ha- ving four wards and fixteen parifhesj eight of which are withinf the walls, and eight without. It is a populous place, and is A a about i86 A NEW DISPLAY OF about three miles in circumference ; the ftreets are fpaeioiis, and though not in general remarkably well built, yet there are agreat many good houfes in it, befides the guild-hall, ad- joining to which is the town-gaol, and a hall called Dutch- baize-hall, belonging to a corporation for the fupport of the bays and fay manufactures, both which are fine buildings. Here are ten parifh churches, and three meeting-houfes, of which one is far the Quakers. Here are two charity-fchools, one for feventy boys, and the other for fifty boys and girls, a work-houfe, and two free grammar-fchools j and there are three bridges upon the river Colne, which was made navigable by act of parliament for fmall craft up to a long ftreet next the water-fide, called the Hithe, where there is a quay, and for mips of large burthen, to a place called the Wyvenhoe, within three miles of the town, where there is a cuftom-houfe. Colchefter had formerly the greateft manufactory of bays and fays of any in England ; but that trade has of late years confi- derably declined here. This place is alfo remarkable for candy- ing eringo roots, but much more for its oyfters, for which it is particularly famous. They are taken near the mouth of the Colne, upon fands called the Spitts, and are carried up to the Wyvenhoe, where they are laid in beds or pits on the more to feed ; after they have continued in thefe pits fome time, they are barrelled and brought to Colchefter, from whence they are fent in great quantities to London and other places. Such fhoals of fprats are caught here, and confumed by the woollen ma- nufacturers, that the common name for this fiih is the weavers beef of Colchefter. This town has fent members to parliament from the 23d of Edward I. to the prefent timej and upwards of fifteen hundred perfons are entitled to votes here. There are three market- days in every week in this town, viz. on Wednefday, Friday, and Saturday ; and here are five fairs held, one on the fecond Tuefday in April, another on the 5th of July, another on the 23d of July, another on the 2d of Auguft, and the laft on the 20th of October. Colchefter is fuppofcd by fome to be the ancient Camulodu- num-, and it has been obferved, that there are a greater quan- tity of Roman remains here than in any other part of Britain ; vaft quantities of Roman bricks and tiles being to be feen in- corporated, and which are indeed 4 the principal ingredients in all the moft antient edifices ; the town wall, the caftle, and the churchts being half built (with themt The Suppellex Romana THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 187 of all kinds ftill abounds, fcarcely any places being; dug up with- out difcovering urns, vafes, and poterie, of all forts, or at leaft fragments ; among which is a great deal of the fine glazed and red ware, refembling the moft beautiful of that which comes from China. Lamps, rings, intaglias, ftyles, chains, and fe- pulchral urns, with the afhes therein, are likewife frequently found. A remarkable urn in particular was taken up a few years ago ; it contained twenty gallons, having in it another of two gallons, with the afhes, as is fuppofed, of a Roman lady, becaufe there were alio with it two bottles of clay for incenie, two clay lamps, one metal veflel for ointment, and a fpeculum of polifhed metal, anciently ufed for a looking-glafs. And there are here a great number of Mofaic or teiTelated pave- ments, about three feet under ground, having black, white, red, and yellow teiTene, and looking like a beautiful carpet. Some of thefe are preferved, being inclofed and covered. But as to Roman coins and medals, it is faid that even bufhels have been found in and about this town, and amongft them many gold ones. — The walls of this town are ftill if anding, but very much decayed in fome places, particularly on the north fide. Where the walls remain perfect:, it is faced either with Ro- man brick, or fquare ftones, about feven or eight inches in diameter. Colchefter-caftle (rands on the north fide of what is called the High-ftreet, and is a fquare of about two hundred and twenty- four yards in circumference on the outfide. The whole building is a mixture of ftone and Roman bricks ; but moft of the Ro- man bricks are in broken pieces, taken from the ruins of more ancient edifices formerly {landing in the town. The corners of the walls, and fides of doors and windows, are of free ftone. — Jn 1631, Dr.Harfnet, archbiftiop of York, gave to the town of Colchefter all his library of books, and they are depofited in the caftle. Several additions have fince been made to this library ; and a very capital addition of valuable books would have been made to it by the late Bifhop Compton ; but the love of learning was then fo prevalent at Colchefter, that the Bi- fhop's benefaction was neglected, in order to fave the expence of carriage ! D E D H A M Is fituated feven miles from Colchefter. This was an- ciently a famous cloathing-town, fo early as the reign of King Richard the Second ; and the bay-trade extended into it af- terwards i but is now greatly on the decline. The town A a 2 is A NEW DISPLAY OF is tolerably well built, and there are fome very large houfes in it. Here is a grammar-fchool, the governors of which were incorporated by a charter granted by Queen Elizabeth ; and that princefe particularly enjoined the parents of the boys who were educated at this fchool, that they fhould furnifh their fons with bows, ihafts, bracers and glee?, in order to train them to arms. — Dedham church is an handfome and fpacious build- ing, and the roof of an arch unaerneath the fteeple is finely adorned with the arms of the two families of York and Lan- cafter, and red and white rofesj and at the eaft fide of the battlements there is a ftatue of Margaret, Countefs of Rich- mond, and coronets all round. MANINGTREE Is a market-town in EjfTex, at the diftance of about fixty miles from London. It is fituated on the fouth fide of the river Stour, and a confiderable trade is carried on here in deals, coals, iron and corn; and from hence the beft whitings, and a quantity of other fijfa, are carried to Colchefter. The market is held here on Thurfday, and here is a fair on the 15th of June. — , Richard Rigby, Efq; has an handfome feat near this town, known by the name of Mistley Hall, which is pleafantly fituated cn an eminence. It is adorned with extenfive gardens, and plantations, laid out in much tafte. At Mijiley Thorn, the late Richard Rigby, Efq; (father of the prefent gentleman of the fame name, who is well known in the political world) built a village of about thirty brick houfes, convenient for tradefmen, and well inhabited. He alfo built feveral granaries, warehoufes, a large malting office, and made good quays and coal-yards, and there is now a large trade car- ried on here.— Maningtree church is a neat edifice, and was built at the expence of Mr. Rigby. HARWICH. This town is at the diftance of feventy-two miles from London, and is fituated on a cliff or point of land, at the north eaft corner of the county of ElTex. It is bounded on the eaft by the fea, and on the north by the mouth of the ri- yer Sour, and the haven of Orwell. The warning and un- arming of the tides, and the falling of large pieces of the vlifF, have made tbis point a peninfula, and it is apprehended in a courfe of years, will make it quite an ifland. The town ? "' ■. "" ' ' ' . i| THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 189 is not large, but well built, and populous. It was formerly walled round, and had four gates ; it had alfo a caftle, and an admiralty houfe. It was firft made a borough by King Edward the Second, and was afterwards incorporated by King James the Firft. Between this town and a high hill, called Beacon-hill, not far diftant, there is a cliff confifting of a kind of clay, parts of which are continually falling down into a petrifying water at the bottom, which they imbibe, and being afterwards taken out and dried, they become an impenetrable and durable ftone, and with this flone the town is paved. The harbour is very fafe, and fo fpacious, that an hundred fail of men of war, and their tenders, befides three or four hun- dred fail of colliers, have fometimes been feen here at the fame time. The mouth of the harbour at high water, is near three miles wide, but the channel, by which alone the mips can come into the harbour, is deep and narrow, and lies on the Suffolk, fide j fo that all the mips that come in or go out, are commanded by a ftrong fort, called Landguard Fort, which was built by King James the Firft, on a point of land, fo furrounded by the fea at high water, that it looks like an ifland, lying about a mile from the fhore. The town was formerly fortified on the land fide, but in the reign of King Charles the Firft, the fortifica- tions were demolifhed. — There is a guildhall, and a tolerable good exchange at Harwich ; and as it is a fea port, here is a cuftom-houfe, called the King's houfe, with a collector, comp- troller, land-furveyor, tide- fur vey or, two land-waiters, and four tide-waiters. For the guidance of veffels into the harbour, in a room over the chief gate there is alight kept every night with a coal-fire, to which anfwers a light-houfe on the town -green below the cliff, with lamps fupplied with oil. By means of them fhipa are conduced clear of afand called the Andrews, into the roil- ing grounds, where there is a good anchorage. The fhorteft and fafeft paffage between England and Holland being from this port, it brings a confiderable number of travellers this way, ef- pecially in time of war ; for whofe conveniency, and the car- rying of the mails, there are four pacquet boats, and in war-time two Dover pacquet boats. King William, and King George I. and II. ufually embarked and landed at this place, in their j >ur- nies to and from Holland and Hanover. Here is a good yard for building mips, with ftore-houfes, pranes, launches, and other rieceflaries. The town-hall arid 190 A NEW DISPLAY OF gaol were lately pulled down, and rebuilt with brick ; and the private buildings and pavement of the ftreets, are of late years much improved. The fifhery here is fo much increafed of late years, that there are now upwards of fixty fifhing floops be- longing to this town, of about fifty tons burthen. The cop- peras works, which were formerly carried k on here, have been dropped for fome years, and very little copperas is now picked up here ; neither are there many lobfters taken on the fhore, 3$ formerly. But a number of fifhing floops from hence are em- ployed to fetch lobfters from Norway to London, and other markets, each of them bringing on an average about twelve or fourteen thoufand on a fingle voyage, and moft of them ma- king two voyages from hence between February and July. As many, or rather a larger number of veflels, fail every winter from hence to the Dogger bank, and there fifh for Dogger cods, which are very large and much efteemed. This fifhery, till within thefe five or fix years, was not underftood by our fifher- men; but they are now become fo expert therein, that hopes are entertained of eftablilhing the turbot-trade here likewife, which will be a great faving to the nation, as the Dutch carry a great quantity of ready fpecie from London markets every fea- fon, for that kind of fifh. Part of a Roman caftra or camp, ftill remains at Harwich ; and here and there are found mutilated parts of a large ftone pavement, which are fuppofed to be a fufficient proof of its having been a Roman military way ; or, in the Saxon ftile, a Stane ftreet. Several coins have been found here; and a tef- felated pavement was alfodifcovered, and a wall pulled down about twenty years ago, built entirely of Roman materials. — At a Roman caftle called by Camden, Walton, otherwife Fe- ]i>:(tow-caftle, many fragments of urns, and other antiquities have been dug up. An elephant's tooth was likewife found near the remains of this caftle ; and it is faid that more of them have been found in Harwich cliff, which were probably buried here by the Romans. Dion Caflxus fays, that elephants were brought into Britain by Claudius, who landed his army in Kent, and crofTed theT names with it into Eflex, where he conquered the natives. This happened A. D. 43. So that thefe teeth are fuppofed to have lain in the earth 1700 years. Harwich church is only a chapel of eafe to the mother church of Dover-court. It was founded by Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk. -—Harwich fends two members to parliament.— THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 191 Here are two fairs held, one on the feaft of Sr. Philip and St. James, and the other on the feaft of St. Luke the Evan- gelift. Dover-court is a mile diftant from Harwich. In this parifli grows ftrong knotted and crooked elms, famous for their feve- ral ufes in hufbandry, which are faid to be very durable, and to wear like iron. Here are two fairs held, one on the ift of May, and another on the 18th of October. There are three iflands fouth-weft of Harwich, called Pewet, Horfey, and Holmes, which however are ftparated from the main land only by the winding of a ftream, and the influx of the fea into that ftream. Upon thcfe iflands there is found a fea^fowl, which, when fat, is very delicious food ; fouth of thefe iflands there are three villages, which are included within a liberty or lordfhip, anciently called the liberty of the Soke, in which the Sheriff of the county has no power, and in which no writ can be executed but by the bailiff of the liberty, nor by him without the confent of the lord. St. O S Y T H. This is a parifh in Eflex, at the diftance of twelve miles from Colchefter. It derived its name from the lady Ofgy th, or Ofyth, who was obliged by her father, againft her will, to marry Sig- here, King of the Eaft Angles. She found means, however, to prevent the marriage being confummated ; and, in the abfence of her hufband, took the veil. He at length confented to her living in a ftate of celibacy, and gave her a village which was Situated at this place, called Chich, or Cice, and permitted her to found here a church, and a nunnery. But Ingua and Hubba, we are told, fpoiled the nunnery, and caufed her head to be cut off, at a fountain where (he ufed to wafh herfelf with her vir- gins ; (he was buried, it is (aid, before the door of the church erected by herfelf. Richard de Beauveis, bifhop of London, founded a mo- naftery hereabout the year 11 18, for canons of the order of St. Auguftine. The revenues of this monaftery were very large, and there are two parks belonging to it. At the diflo- lution of the monafteries, this place was granted to the fa- mous Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Eflex. It afterwards became the property of Lord Darcy, who converted it into a feat for himfeif. Part of it only is ftanding, yet it is a noble pile A NEW DISPLAY OF pile of building, and is now the feat of the Earl of Roch- ford. M A L D E N Is a very ancient town in EfTex, at the diftance of thirty-feven miles from London. It ftands on an eminence or fide of a hill, fouth of Blackwater bay. It confifts of one wide ftreer, extending from weft to eaft near a mile, which is crofted near the top by another. On the weft fide of the town are the remains of a camp, through the middle of which is the road to Chelmsford j three fides of the fortifications are vifible, being a fquare or oblong, inclofing about twenty-two acres ; the reft is built upon and defaced. The bay here makes a convenient harbour for fhips, and the merchants carry on a confiderabfe trade in coal, iron, deals, and corn. Maiden has fent burgef- fes to parliament from the third year of the reign of Edward III. — The market here is on Saturday, and a fair is held three weeks before Michaelmas, and another on Lady-day, and two days after. A fhopkeeper of this town, whofe name was Edward Bright, was rendered famous by his extraordinary bulk and weight. He is mentioned in the Philofophical Tranfadtions, and prints were publifhed of him. Another inftance of fo vaft a fize is fcarcely to be met with in ancient or modern hiftory. At the age of 12 years he weighed 144 pounds ; at 19 he weighed 336 pounds ; about thirteen months before he died, his neat weight was 41 ftone 10 pounds, or 584 pounds ; at the time of his death he was manifeftly grown bigger fince his laft weigh- ing, in that proportion by which he had encreafed on an aver- age, viz. of about two ftone a year ; fo that he was nearly 44 ftone, or 6 1 6 pounds neat weight. He meafured five feet nine inches and an half in height ; his body round his cheft was five feet fix inches, and round his belly fix feet eleven in- ches. His arm in the middle was two feet two inches about, and his leg two feet eight inches. After his death feven men were buttoned in his waiftcoat. He died in 1750, aged twenty-nine. He was an active man till a year or two before his death, when his corpulency fo overpowered his ftrength, that his life began to be a burthen to him. He left a widow big with her fixth child. His coffin was of an enormous fize, and they were obliged to cut a way through the wall and ftaircafe, to let his corpfe down into the (hop. It was drawn upon a carriage to THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 193 to the church, and let down into the vault by the help of a Ai- der and pullies. RO CHFOR D Is a town in EfTex, at the diftance of forty miles from Lon- don, fituated on a fmall ftream that falls into a river called the Grouch. It gives its name to the hundred in which it lies. The market is on Thurfday, and here are two fairs annually, one on Eafter Tuefday, and the other on the Wednefday after Mi- chaelmas day.— At King's-hill, about half a mile north-eaft of Rochford church, is held what is called the Lawlefs- court, a whimfical cuftom, the origin of which is not known. On the Wednefday morning next after Michaelmas-day, the tenants are bound to attend, upon the firft cock-crowing, and to kneel and do their homage, without any kind of light but fuch as the Heavens will afford, The fteward of the court calls all fuch as are bound to appear, with as low a voice as poffible, giving no notice when he goes to execute his office; however, he that givts not an anfwer is deeply amerced. They are all to whifper to each other, nor have they any pen and ink, but fupply that de- ficiency with a coal ; and he that owes fuit and fervice, and ap- pears not, forfeits to the Lord of the Manor double his rent every hour he is abfent. A tenant of this manor forfeited, not long ago, his land for non-attendance, but was reftored to it, the Lord only taking a fine. At the diftance of five miles from Rochford, is Hadley, or Hadley ad Castrum, as it has been ftiled ever fince the reign of King Henry the Third, when Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, built acaftle here. The ruins ftill extant, fhew its ancient grandeur. It is near a mile fouth from the church, and about three quarters of a mile from the road, facing the Channel or Canvey-ifland. It is fituated on the brow of a fteep hill, there is from thence a delightful profpeft acrofs the Thames into Kent. It is built of ftone almoft of an oval form ; the entrance is at the north- weft corner, between two towers, and there are alfo two towers at the fouth-eaft and north-eaft corners, which are embattled, and have loop holes on the fides ; the walls in the bottom of the towers are nine feet thick, and the reft five feet ; and on the north and fouth fides, the walls are ftrengthened with buttreffes. The ce- ment or mortar, which is almoft as hard as the ftones themfelves, hath in it a mixture of (hells of fea-fifli, &c. At the entrance, B b the 194 A NEW DISPLAY OF the earth lying very high near the towers, a very deep ditch h cut behind them which runs along the north fide of the caftle 5 the ruins are now greatly over-grown with bufh.es. ROCHESTER. This is a very ancient city in the county of Kent, at the dif- tance of thirty miles from London. It is fituated on an angle of land formed by the current of the river Medway, which coming from the fouth runs northward till it has pafled by the city ; and then, turning, proceeds nearly to the eaft. This city has fent members to parliament from the earlieft times, and is the fee of a Bifhop, and next to Canterbury, the molt ancient fee in England. It is but a fmall city, though it is fuppofed to have been walled round before the conqueft ; and • great part of the walls {till remain. The town is well fup- plied with proviftons of every kind, and with plenty of fifh from the Medway. The buildings are lately much improved, and in feveral parts of the town are fome agreeable residences for fmall genteel families. On Boley Hill, which is a retired and pleafant fituation, is an ancient feat, which is the property of Jofeph Brooke, Efq; wherein Queen Elizabeth was enter- tained in 1573. Part of the houfe has been new-built by Mr. Brooke. And near to this, on a delightful eminence, is the i refidence of Gordon, Efqj from many parts of whofe houfe is a pleafing view of the Medway and the furrounding hills. This gentleman is poflefled of a collection of fine paint- ings, many of them by the firft mafters in that polite art ; par- ticularly two capital drawings of Rubens, viz, the Crucifixion and the Penticoft. There are three capital and fpacious inns in this city, which will vie with moft in England, as well for their good accommo- dations, as for their antiquity. Nearly on the fame fpot where the Crown now ftands, has been an inn diftinguifhed by that name upwards of four hundred and fifty years, it having been kept by Simon Potyn, the founder of St. Catharine's hof- pital, A. D. 1316. It alfo appears from court rolls, that on the fame fpots where the Bull and the King's-head now ftand, there have been houfesof public entertainment diftinguifhed by the fame figns for above three hundred years.-— In the neigh- bourhood of this city are feveral very rural and pleafant walks, particularly on the banks of the Medway. Rochefttr THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 195 Rochefter Cajlle, which is fuppofed to have been erected about 700 years, is placed on a fmall eminence, near the river ivled- way, juft above Rochefter bridge, and confequently is in the fouth-weft angle of the walls of the city. It is nearly of a quadrangular form, having its fides parallel with the walls of the city. It is about three hundred feet fquare within the walls, which were feven feet in thicknefs, and twenty feet high above the prefent ground, with embrafures. Three fides of the caftle were furrounded with a deep broad ditch, which is now nearly filled up; on the other fide runs the Medway. In the angles and fides of the caftle were feveral fquare towers, fome of which are ftill remaining which were railed above the walls, and contained lower and upper apartments, with embra- fures on their tops. But what chiefly attracts the notice of a fpeclator, is the noble tower, which ftands in the fouth eaft angle of this caftle, and is fo lofty as to be feen diftinclly at twenty miles diftance. It is quadrangular in its form, having its fides parallel with the walls of the caftle. And from the top of it is a very pleafing profpect of the city and adjacent towns, with their public build- ings, the dock-yard at Chatham, the meanders of the Medway, and the furrounding country. There is an antient ftone Bridge at Rochefter, over the Medway, whsch was erected in the reign of Richard II. Sir Robert Knolles is celebrated for being the founder of this bridge. He was diftinguilhed both by his courage and military preferments, being raifed by degrees from the rank of a com- mon foldier to that of a General. He attended Edward 111. in his fuccefsful campaigns in France ; and when the King's affairs declined by the ill ftate of health of Edward the Black Prince, Sir Robert was fent over to the continent with an army of thirty thoufand men. He advanced into the heart of France, and ex- tended his conquefts as far as the gates of Paris. In this, and many other expeditions, he acquired great riches, and returned to his country laden with wealth and honour. Lombard fays, Sir Robert built this bridge with " the ** fpoils of towns, caftles, churches, monafteries and cities, " which he burnt and deftroyed ; fo that the ruins of houfes, " &c were called Knolles's Mitres." — This bridge, for height and ftrength, is allowed to be fuperior to any in England, ex- cepting the bridges at London and Weftminfter. It is above five hundred aud lixty feet long, and fouiteen feet broad, with B b % aftune i 9 6 A NEW DISPLAY OF a ftone parapet on each fide, ftrongly coped and crowned with an iron balluftrade. It has eleven arches, fupported by ftrong and fubftantial piers, which are well fecured on each fide with fterlings. The river has a confiderable fall through thefe arches At the eaft end, and fronting the paflage pver the bridge, a chapel was originally erected by Sir John Cobham, who gave fome afliftance to Sir Robert KnoUes in building the bridge ; but a neat ftone building has fmce been erected on the place where the chapel flood, wherein the perfons to whom the care of the bridge is entrufted, hold their meetings. A bifhopric was founded at Rochefter, in the reign of Ethel- berr, King of Kent, foon after Auguftine the Monk had land- ed in the ifle of Thanet, and preached at Canterbury. The firft church at Rochefter was finifhed in the year 604, but this building having fuffered confiderably by time and the ravages of foreign enemies, biftiop Gundulph rebuilt the cathedral about the year 1080. It contifts of a body and two ifles, one on each fide ; its extent, from the weft door to the ftep afcending to the choir, is fifty yards, and from thence to the eaft windows at the upper end of the altar, fifty-two yards more, in all one hundred and two yards, or three hundred and fix feet. At the entranceof the choir is a great crofs ifle, the length of which, from north to fouth, is one hundred and twenty-two feet. At the upper end of the choir, between the Bifhop's throne and the high altar, is another crofs ifle, which extends from north to fouth, ninety feet. The weft front extends eighty-one feet in breadth ; the arch of the great door is doubtlefs the fame which Gundulph built j and is a moft curious piece of workmanfhip, every ftone being engraved with fome device. It muft have been very magnifi- cent in its original ftate, its remaining beauties being fufficient to excite the attention of the curious; it is fupported by feve- ral columns on each fide, two of which are carved intoftatues reptefentingGundulph's royal patrons, Henry I. and his Queen Matilda. T he capitals of thefe columns, as well as the whole arch, are cut into the figures of various animals and flowers. The key ftone of the arch feems to have been defigned to re T prefent St. Andrew, the apoftle and tutelar faint of the church, fitting in a niche, with an angel on each fide, but the head is broke off : under the figure of St. Andrew, are twelve other figures, fupppfed to be cjefigned for the twelve apoftles, fome fevy THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 197 few of which are perfect ; but in general the whole arch is much injured by time. On each fide of the weft door is a fquare tower j that on the north fide has lately been rebuilt, and has on the centre niche, on the weft front, a very ancient figure, fuppofed to be the fta- tue of Bifhop Gundulph. A priory was founded at Rochefter about the year 600. A chapter of fecular priefts was firft placed here, but they were afterwards removed, and Gundulph, biftiop of Rochefter, al- ready fpoken of as the builder of the cathedral, eftabliihed here ixty black monks. — There arefome ruins ftill remaining of the ancient chapter houfe, which (hew it to have been a building of elegance, confidering the age in which it was eredted. — A fke- leton was dug up, in December, 1766, by the workmen em- ployed in digging a new cellar for the deanery of Rochefter, in an area under the old chapter-houfe, or fecretarium of the pri- ory. This fkeleton was full feven feet in length, and the fkull very entire, with fine teeth quite firm in the jaw. The town-hall of Rochefter is an handfome brick ftruc-ture, fupported by coupled columns of ftone, in the Doric order. At the upper end of the hall are the original portraits of King William HI. and Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Here are alfo the portraits of Sir Cloudefley Shovel. Sir John Leake, and other perfons of note, well executed by eminent mafters. — The clock houfe, which is a neat building, was erefted by Sir Cloudefley Shovel, who reprefented this citv in four parlia- ments. — This city is governed by a mayor, eleven aldermen, and twelve common councilmen. Sir Jofeph Williamfon, who was one of the plenipotentiaries at the treaties of Nimeguen and of Ryfwick, and who was one of the reprefentatives of this city, founded a mathematical fchool here. There is alfo a grammar fchool here, called the King's fchool, confifting of twenty fcholars on the royal foun-r dation, who have their education free, and each gs. 4d. per quarter. They wear furplices, and with the choriftcrs, are al- ways obliged to attend divine fervice at the cathedral. A mar- ket is kept in this city on Fridays, and two annual fairs are held here, one on the 30th of May, and the other on the 1 ith of December. There is in the river fVledway at Rochefter, and in feveral of its creeks and branches within the jurifdiction of the city, an oyfter fifhery ; which is free to every one who has ferved (even years apprenticefliip to any fiftierman or dredger, who is 198 A NEW DISPLAY OF is free of the faid fifliery ; and the Mayor and citizens of Ro- cbefter hold a court once a year, or oftner, when occaflon re- quires it, for the regulation of this fifhery, and to prevent abufes in it. Rochefter, Stroud, and Chatham, though they are three diftindt places, yet are fo contiguous, as to appear in a manner but one city j and thefe three towns form a continued ftreet, extending above two miles in length. Stroud is feparated from Rochefter only by a bridge. There is an hofpital here f®r ficlc and lame foldiers ; and an annual fair is held here on the 26th of Auguft. CHATHAM Is a fuburb to Rocheiter, and perhaps the completeft naval arfenal in the world. It affords a fight equally noble and plea- fing, to every one who is fenfiblehow much the fafety and prof- peiity of this nation depends on its maritime ftrength. It has been brought to its prefent ftate of perfection by degrees, the dock having been begun by Queen Elizabeth, and continually improved by her fuccefTors. — This celebrated dock-yard, inclu- ding the ordnance wharf, is about a mile in length ; it is ranged on thefouth eaft fide of tthe river, and is adorned with many ciegaiu buildings, inhabited by the commiffioner and principal officers belonging to the yard, which well become the opulence of the nation, and the importance of the navy. Here are many neat and commodious offices for tranfa&ing the bufinefs of the yard j alfo fpacious ftorehoufes (one of which is fix hundred and fixty feet in length) and work rooms, which, by their ampli- tude, manifeft their prodigious contents, and the extenfive works carried on within them ; the fail-loft, in which the fails are made, is two hundred and nine feet in length ; in thef? maga-? zincs are depofited amazing quantities of faiJs, rigging, hemp, flux, pitch, tar, rolin, oil, and every ingredient neceffary for the building and equipping of {hips ; the coils of cordage, and heaps of blocks, with innumerable other articles, are arranged with fuch order, that on any emergency they may be taken out without the leaft confufion. To every apartment proper officers and attendants are affigned, for the more expeditious difpatcf} of buhnefs, lo that even a firft or fecond rate is often equipped lor fea in a few weeks. The mails are carefully depofited in ftorehoufes peculiar- ly adapted for them, one of which, in this yard, is twQ hundred and thirty-4ix feet in length, and one hundred and twenty THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. i 9 g twenty feet wide ; Tome of thefe mafts are near one hundred and twenty feet long, and thirty-fix inches in diameter : there are alfo two fpacious bafoqs of water, in which thefe mafts are kept continually floating. The fmith's (hop contains twenty- one fires j here the anchors are made, fome of which weigh near five tons. In an extenfive rope houfe, which is upwards of fe- ven hundred feet in length, large quantities of hemp are twift- ed into cables one hundred and twenty fathoms Jong, and fome of them twenty-two inches round. In this yard are four deep and wide docks, for docking and repairing large (hips j in one of thefe docks was built the Victory, a firft rate, the largeft. fhip in the univerfe, carrying one hundred and ten guns, which is now moored in this river near Gillingham ; there are alfo four flips and launches, on which new fhips are conftantly build- ing. The ordnance wharf is fituated to the fouth of the dock -yard, between Chatham church and the river, and was the original naval yard. The guns belonging to the fhips in this river are depofited in long tiers ; fome of thefe guns weigh fixty-five hundred weight each ; large pyramids of fhot are to be feen on different parts of this wharf j there are alfo capacious ftore- houfes, in which are depofited prodigious quantities of offen- five weapons, as mufkets, piftols, cutlafles, pikes, poleaxes, &c &c. The armory is a curious afTemblage of hoftile weapons, arranged in admirable order. To defend this large naval ma- gazine, there is a ftrong garrifon at Sheernefs, the entrance into the Medway. A fort is alfo erected at Gillingham. For the further fecurity of this yard, in the beginning of the laft war, ramparts were thrown up. That which is called the Cheft at Chatham, was inftituted in 1588, the memorable year of the defeat of the Spanifh Ar- mada ; when with the advice of Sir Francis Drake, Sir John Hawkins, and others, the feamen in the fervice of Queen Elizabeth voluntarily affigned a portion of each man's pay, to the relief of their wounded fellows ; which method being con- firmed by the Queen, has been continued ever fince. Two an- nual fairs are held at Chatham, one on the 15th of May, and the other on the 19th of September. About four miles from Rochefter ftands the pleafant village of Shorne y the church belonging to which has feveral ancient monuments in it, efpecially of the Cobham family. Near this place &'ob A NEW DISPLAY OF place is Cobham-hall, an ancient and noble ftructure, the ori- ginal manfion of the Cobham family, but now the refidence of the Earl of Darnley. In a large room in this houfe are the arms of Queen Elizabeth, and a memorandum of her having been entertained there by the then proprietor of this feat ; here is an extenfive park well ftocked with deer. In Cobham church are feveral ancient and curious monuments of the Cobham family. Near the church is a college, founded about the year T389, by John de Cobham, and fupprefled by Henry VIII. But it was founded anew on a reformed plan, by Sir William Brooke (lord Cobham) A. D. 1597. Twenty poor perfons with their fami- lies, are admitted into this college, from the adjacent parifhes. On the other fide of the London road, is the partfhof Hig- ham, where was a nunnery of the Benedictine order. Near this place are the remains of the ancient town ot Clive at Hoo, row called Cliff, by many writers fuppofed to have been the Clovefhoe, where fo many councils were held during the Saxon heptarchy. "Not far from Cliff is Cooling caftle, erected by John, Lord Cobham, about 1380 ; it being granted to him by Richard It. which grant he caufed to be cut on alargeftone, and placed on the front of the caftle ; part of it is ftill vifible. This caftle was a place of confiderable ftrength, and furround- ed by a deep moat. Two round towers which formed the en- trance, are ftill (landing, as are fome fragments of towers erected for its defence in different parts of the walls. The pious and intrepid Sir John Oldcaftle, who in the reign of Henry V. fell a victim to papal cruelty, refided in this caftle j part of it is now a farm-houfe, in the occupation of Mr. Comport. About three miles from Rochefter, on the road towards London, is Gad's Hill, fuppofed to have been the fcene of the robbery mentioned by Shakefpear in his play of Henrv IV. At a fmall diftance to the left, appears on an eminence theHer- mitage, the feat of the late Sir Francis Head, Bart, and clofe to the road, on a fmall afcent, is a neat building lately erected by Mr, Day. MILTON. This is an ancient town in Kent, about twelve miles from Rochefter, and forty-two from London. It is in a manner fituated on the waters of a fine rivulet, at the head of a creek that runs into the Swale, which feparates the ifle of Shepey from the main. Antiquity has dignified it by calling it, *' The THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 201 « The royal town of Middleton." When king Alfred divi- ded his kingdom into hundreds and (hires, Milton was in his pofleffion, and therefore was fo denominated ; it was honoured with a royal palace, which was fituated near where the church at prefent ftands, about a mile north-eaft of the town : It was a flourifhing place until the reign of Edward the Confeffor ; nor do we read of its being injured by the Danes, although it muft have been vifited by them : in the fame reign A. D. 1053, Earl Godwin, who had been banifhed, came hither and burnt the palace and town to afhes. Milton church is a large hand- fome building ; there was a church in this place very early, for Sexburga, the foundrefs of the nunnery at Minfter in Shepey, is faid to have expired in the church porch of Milton, about the year 680. It contains feveral ancient monuments of the Nor* wood family. The town is governed by a portreeve, who i3 annually ehofen on St. James's-day. There is a good oyfter fiftiery in the Swale, belonging to this town : the oylters are much efteemed in London. A market was granted by King Edward I. A. D. 1287, and continues on Saturdays. A fair is held on the 24th of May. Within a mile to the eaft of the church is a large open field or marfh, called Kelmfiey-down» derived, it is imagined, from Campfley-down, or the place of camps, becaufe there the Danes under Hafting, in 892, en* camped on their arrival from France with eighty Thips. On the eaft fide of the down are the remains of a caftle, faid to have been built at that time by thofe free-booters 3 it is now called Caltle Ruff. All that appears of this fortrefs at prefent, is a fquare piece of ground furrounded by a large moat. On the oppofite fide of Milton creek, and about half a mile north of Sittingborn, are the poor remains of Bayford caftle, faid to have been raifed by the good and vigilant King Alfred, to fecure the country from the excurfions of the Danes, while they rendez- voufed on Kelmfley downs. The moat and a fmall part of the eaft wall are ftill vifible. FEVERSHAM Is forty eight miles from London, and is a town of great an- tiquity. In a charter of Kenulph, King of Mercia, dated 812, it is called the King's little town, and feems to have been a royal rehdence at that time. King Stephen founded an abbey herein 1148, but there are no remains of it, except an inner gate and fome walls. The church is large and handfome. Fe- verfliam is now in a flourifhing ftate, being the chief port for 202 A NEW DISPLAY OF this part of the country; it is fkuated on a rivulet which fals into the mouth of the Swale, and has an oyfter fifhery. The dredgei s have a peculiar law among thern, which obliges a perfon to marry before he can be free of the grounds. The town is an appendage of the town and port of Dover. It is go- verned by a mayor, jurat, and commonality ; has a market on Wednefdays and Saturdays; and two fairs, one on the twenty- fifth of February, and the other on the twelfth of Auguft. A large powder manufactory fubfifted near this town as early as the time of Queen Elizabeth : it has been lately purchafed by go- vernment. To the north-weft of the town, on the other fide of the rivulet, is the chapel of Davington, where was an emi- nent nunnery. It was founded foon after the abbey of Fever- fham, in the reign of King Stephen, A. D. 1153. The cha- pel of this ancient religious houfe is now the parifh church. To the fouth of the town, near the road, is the fmall, but neat church of Prefton, in which are forne monuments three hundred years old. At a little diftance from hence, Lord Sondes has an elegant feat, known by the name of Lees Court. And in this neigh- bourhood is alfo Nash Court, the handfome and pleafant feat of the Hawkins's family, with a balluftraded terrace on its top, fronted with a green park, in which are beautiful plantati- ons. — At Broughton-hill, which is between Feverfham and Canterbury, there is a beautiful profpect on every fide from the fumrnit, and the high fteeple of Canterbury cathedral appears di- rectly in the road. About three miles from hence is the ancient village of Har- bledown y the church of which is fituated on an hill weft of the ftreet. Oppofite to the church is the hofpital and chapel, ori- ginally built and endowed by archbifhop Lanfranc, about the year 1080 : it was fot the benefit of poor lepers. This was- the place that formerly held the precious relick, called St. Tho- mas Becket's flipper, neatly let in copper and chryftal, men- tioned by Erafmus. The numerous pilgrims to the fhrine of St. Thomas ufed to flop here, and kifs his flipper, as a prepa- ration for their more folemn approach to his tomb. Since the reformation, this hofpital is continued for the relief of poor perfons. CANTERBURY. This famous and ancient city, the chief of the county of Kent , snd the metropolitan fee of all England, ftands at the diftance THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 203 diftance of fifty-fix miles from London. It is fituated in a beau- tiful and fruitful valley, with the river Stour running through it, in two clear and ufeful ftreams. It is fuppofed to have been walled in the time of King Ethelbert, about the year 600 ; and when the walls were repaired in 1400, they are faid to have been nearly two miles in compafs. There were twentv-one fmall towers on the walls, and feven gates, befides pofterns. There are now only fix, and a great part of the wall is in a rn* inous ftate. The cajlle is a venerable ftruclure, and was built about the time of theconqueft. It is fituated on the fouth fide of the city, but is in ruins. Befides the cathedral, there are fix- teen parilh churches in this city ; the whole of which is divided into fix wards, which are named after the fix city gates. Here were alfo a priory, a nunnery, and three religious houfes for the Auguftine, black, and grey friars. The knights templars had a manfion in this city. It iikewife contained nine hofpitals, three of which are diflolved. Here is a free-fchool, and three charity fchools. The cathedral, called Chrifl's Church, is a fine piece of Go- thic architecture ; it is fituated in a fpacious fquare towards the eaft fide of the city, and is built in the form of a crofs ; about five hundred feet long, feventy-four broad, exclufive of thecrofs ifle, and eighty feet high. Fiom the middle of the building rifes a beautiful tower two hundred and thirty- five feet high, called Bell Harry. — There are many antient monuments in this church, fome in very good condition ; among which are thofe of Henry the Fourth, and'his Queen, built A. D. 1413; and EdvVard the black prince; There was alfo a famous rnonaffery belonging to this cathedral, containing, it is faid, one hundred and fifty Benedictines ; the cloyffers and chapter houfe belonging to it, are on the north fide of the church, and are of the fame age with the body of it. In this chapter room, A. D. 1 171, King Henry the Second, either through piety or policy, fuffered the Monks to fcourge him, by way of penance, on account of the murder of Thomas Becket. This monaftery was dif- folved in 1539 ; and there are now belonging to this cathedral, a dean, archdeacon, twelve prebendaries, fix preachers, fix minor canons, twelve lay clerks, ten chorifters, two mallets, fifty fcholars, and twelve alms men. In the windows of this fabric are fome fine remains of painted glafs, and underneath it the French and Wallooon congregation have a church. C c 2 This 40 4 A NEW DISPLAY OF This was firft given by Queen Elizabeth to the Walloons, who fled hither from the Netherlands, to efcape the Duke of Alva's perfecution } and this congregation has fince been much cncreafed, by numbers of Proteftants who were driven from France in the reign of Lewis XIV. Thefe foreign Proteftants were extremely ferviceable to Canterbury, by introducing here the art of weaving broad filks, which has been brought to great perfection. The ruins of St. Augufline's monaftery, or abbey, are with- out Burgate, to the eaft of the city. The abbey was built by Ethelbert, and given to Auguftine, and richly endowed by the donations of many Kings and Queens. At the weft end of the abbey is Ethelbert's tower, which is thought to have been ufed as a belfry and fteeple, and to have been To called from a large bell named from that King. It was built about the year 1047, and is now much decayed. Near the ruins of this abbey, are thofeof Pancrafs chapel, which was an idol temple, and proba- bly built by the Romans, or foon after their time, from the Roman bricks ftill to be fee n. Auguftine confecrated it for Chriftian worfhip. This abbey and chapel with its precincts, occupied a large compafs of ground, which is furrounded by a high wall, the two grand entrances into which are ftill remain- ing. To the eaft of this monaftery is St. Martin's church, fa- mous for its antiquity, it being built by the believing Romans, and rebuilt and ufed by Bertha, Ethelbert's Queen, for Chtiftiaja worfhip, before Auguftine came into England ; and was the firft place that miffionary faid mafs in, after his arrival. Bertha is faid to have been buried in the porch with her hufband Ethel- bert. There are rows of Roman bricks yet to be feen in it ; it had a bifiiop before the conqueft. This city was formerly eoverned by the archbifliop ; the King had apraefecl:, whopoiTefied but very little authority. It is now governed by a mayor, recorder, a fheriff, twelve aldermen, and twenty four common -council-men. A court is held every Mon- day in the Guildhall, for civil and criminal caufes, and every other Thurfday for the government of the city. Here is a mar- ket on Wednefdays and Saturdays, and a fair for toys on the 29th of September. ISLE OF THANE T. This is in the north-eaft part of the county of Kent, and lies open to the fea on the north and eaft, with the river Want- fam THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 20 fam on the weft and foutb. It is about nine miles long, and eight broad, and in general very fertile. The fmall village of Sarre is the firft place a traveller comes to in this ifland : this was formerly a large town, endowed with the privileges of the cinque ports, and ftill belongs to Sandwich j the paflage into this ifland is at this place, over a narrow ftream. To the left of the road, and fix miles from Margate, is the church of St. Nicholas, which js a handfome building, but there are no mo- numents in it prior to the year 1500. About the fame diftancc from Margate, to the right of the road, is the fmall town of Monkton or Monktown, fo called from its being the property of the Monks, who ufually refided in this place. There are collegiate ftalls in the church, and the heads of feveral priors in the remains of painted glafs in the windows. The church has been larger than it now is. Birchington is a member of the town and port of Dover. The church is a neat building, and contains feveral antient and modern monuments of the Queke and Crifpe families, who refided at the ancient manfion in this parifh, called Quekes or Quex. At this houfe King Wil- liam III. ufed to refide, until the winds favoured his embarking for Holland. A room, faid to have been the bedchamber of this royal gueft, is ftill fliewn, together with an adjacent inclo- fure in which his guards encamped. On the right hand, near the marfhcs, about four miles from Margate, is the ancient but fmall town of Minfter. Domneva, daughter of Ercombert, King of Kent, built and founded an abbey at this place, about the year 670, and fumifhed it with vield virgins to the number of feventy ; herfelf becoming the firft abbefs: Mildred, her daughter, fucceeded her : and fofar excelled her mother in piety, that fhe was canonized a faint, and the nunnery ever after was called by her name. It was deftroyed by the Danes about the year 990. Minfter church, which is the moft ancient in the ifland, is a handfome ftrudture, confifting of three ifles : it has eighteen collegiate ftalls in the choir. On the floor, and in the church porch, are feveral flat grave-ftones, which are very anci- ent. In the laft century a pot of Roman filver coins was plough- ed up near Minfter ; the coins were chiefly of Lucius Aurelius Verus. Between Minfter and Margate is Cleve-court, an ele- gant building belonging to I. Farrer, Efq. Beyond Minfter are fome downs, which are much celebrated for affording extenfive and delightful profpe£ts. Canterbury cathedral, the ifle of She- pey, the Eflex ftiore, Dover cliffs, and the town of Sandwich, 2o6 A NEW DISPLAY OF may be each diftinctly difcerned from this pleafant fpot. From thefe downs (as the Monks inform us) ftarted Domneva's deer, which ran in an irregular courfe, quite acrofs the ifland, in the ancient map of which this trait is marked. King Egbert gave Domneva fo much ground as the deer would run over at one courfe; which cut off the eaft end of the ifland, where fhe built her nunnery. This tract, from the name of her daughter, was called St. Mildred's Lynch, and was a bank of earth thrown up defcribing the ancient bounds of the two great manors of Monkton and Minfter : and is yet vifible in fome places. Eaft Kent, and the Ifle of Thanet, have long been reckoned the beft cultivated part of England, and this tract of country has no flight pretenfions to that character. The drill hufbandry is very general here, and is carried on in a very complete and judicious manner. The culture of hops throughout Eaft Kent,, is a very important branch of hufbandry ; and madder is here cultivated by farmers more than in any other part of the king- dom. MARGATE Is fituated on the north-fide of the ifle of Thanet, within a fmall bay, in a breach of the cliff", where is a gate to the fea, from whence it has its name: it is feventy-two miles from Lon- don, and about fixteen from Canterbury. In fummer it is a pleafant and agreeable fituation. Its principal ftreet runs north and fouth near a mile in length, and terminates at the pier; with; a gentle defcent, by which means the ftreets are always neat and clean. But what has given Margate fo great an eclat in the beau monde, is its conveniency for bathing : the fhore being level and of fine fand, is extremely well adapted to this pur- pofe. On the wharf are feveral bathing rooms, where the company refort to drink the water, and from whence they enter into the machines, which are afterwards drove out two or three hundred yards into the fea, under the conduct of careful guides. There is a door in the machine, which being opened, they de- fcend into the water, by means of a ladder ; an umbrella of canvas is let down which conceals them from public view. Sirjce Margate has been fo much frequented by the no- bility and gentry, many confiderable additions and improve- ments have been made to the town. A large new fquare has been lately erected, confuting of very convenient houfes for THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND 207 for the accommodation of the nobility and gentry who refort to this place ; the fquare is paved after the fame manner as the ftreets in London ; in the fquare is a noble and commodious af- fembly-room, finiflied with great elegance and tafte; and being eigthy feven feet in length, and forty-three in breadth, is fup- pofed to be the Iargeft in England, and commands a delightful profpec"t of the fea. Adjoining to this are very convenient apart- ments for cards and tea ; on the lower floor is a billiard-table, and a large room for public entertainments, with a piazza which extends the whole length of the building ; in the upper floor are ranges of bed-chambers. The number of fubfcribers to thefe rooms have amounted to near a thoufand in a feafon, The amufements are conducted with great regularity by Mr. Walker, matter of the ceremonies, who has the happinefs to give general fatisfaclion. In the fquare is an elegant tavern, now kept by Rumfey, which communicates with the room for public entertainments. Befides the tavern in this fquare, there is another called the New Inn, fituated on the parade ; where are two hot falt- water baths, which are faid to have a very falutary effedt. There is alfo a playhoufe here. Provifions are very plentiful, and great quantities of fifh are daily caught. In ftiort, here is every requifite to render this place a genteel and delightful fummer re- fidence. Two machines fet out for Canterbury every morning, to meet the coaches from London, and return to Margate the fame even- ing. The hoys fail from Wool-key near the Cuftom-hbufe, London, on Wednefdays orThurfdays, and with a weft-north- weft wind, fail to Margate in twelve hours ; but when it is unfavourable, may be three days in their paflage. They go from Margate on Fridays or Saturdays ; the fare is half a crown. They bring great . quantities of goods from London, for the town and country. As a proof of the fafety of this- pafTage, there has not been a hoy loft for upwards of one hundred and forty years. This town is under the fame jurifdicYton as the port of Dover, the mayor being reprefented here by a deputy. Its church is dedicated to St. John the Baptift, which was the anci- ent name of the parifh. It was formerly a chapel to Minfter church, and fuppofed to have been built about the year 1050, and made parochial fince the year 1290. It contains feveral ancient snonument§. At 208 A NEW DISPLAY OF At a little diftance from Margate, is a feat built by Lord Hol- land, in imitation of an Italian villa, with a noble portico fronting the fea. It contains feveral elegant apartments, with a variety of marble columns, bufts, vafes, &c. brought from Italy. His Lordfhip has alfo erected with chalk ftones feveral buildings refembling Gothic towers, convents, &c. in ruins, and planted ivy round them to encreafe the deception. Near this feat are Hackendown banks, or the field of battle axes, being the place where a fierce battle was fought in the year 854, between the Danes and Anglo-Saxons, which conflict was fo near the clifr", that many fell into the fea ; and fome hifto- rians fay, that both Commanders were (lain, and the victory doubtful. Here are two barrows or hills of earth, thought to have been the tombs of certain great officers killed in that bat- tle. Thefe barrows were lately opened, and found to contain bodies bent together and thurft into graves dug out of the chalk, a little below the furface, but not above three feet long. Several earthern urns, containing about two or three quarts, were alfo found, in which were ames and charcoal, but they would not bear the air. Lord Holland has erected a monument, with an infcription in the ftyle of antiquity, to perpetuate this a&ion. About half a mile to the fouth of King*s gate, is the north Foreland lighthoufe, for the direction of fhips by night, to fe- cure them from the Goodwin fands, arid this head land. It was formerly built of wood, but being burnt down, the pre- sent ftrong flint oftagon was erected about the beginning of this century ; at its top is an iron grate, on which a large coal fire blazes all night : for the fupport of this light, the owner of every (hip belonging to Great Britain, that fails by this Foreland, pays two-pence per ton, and every foreigner four- pence. SANDWICH Is one of the Cinque Ports, and is at the diftance of eight miles from Margate, and fixty-feven from London. The walls of the town, which were made by throwing up the earth, are nearly in the form of a parallelogram, and are about five furlongs in length from eafl to weft, and two and a half from north to fouth j at the foot of which is a wet ditch of confiderable breadth. They command a pleafant and extenfive view of the adjacent country. In thefe walls are feveral femicircular projections which overlook the ditches, 3 there THE BE AtJTIES OF ENGLAND. 209 there were alfo fome pieces of ordnance, which being quite un- ferviceable, have been lately removed. The river arid quays are on the north fide of the towri. There are feveral gates belong- ing to it, fome of which are in a ruinous condition. It appears from the remains of fortifications about this town, that it was anciently a place of great ftrength ; and, before the ufe of cannon, was capable of enduring a vigorous fiege. Sand- wich has been efteemed the moft famous of all the ports in Eng- land ; and is thought, by many refpe&able authors, to have been the landing place generally ufed by the Romans, and inha- bitants of the ancient city Rhutupiae. In Sandwich are three parifti churches, St. Clement's, St. Mary*s, and St. Peter's. There was formerly a fourth in the fouth-weft part of this town, dedicated to St. James, but there are no remains of it at prefent. The church-yard is (till in- clofed, and is ufed for the interment of ftrangers. St. Cle- ment's church is in the eaft part of the town, and fituated upon higher ground than the reft. It is a large and ancient ftructure, and much refembles the Norman ftyle of architecture; par- ticularly the tower, which is confiderably older than the reft of the building. There is a good bridge here, which was erected in 1757. ft is built with (tone, having an arch on each fide, and a pafTage between for the larger velTels, that ufe this port. The mid- dle arch is of wood, divided into two parts, which are eafily drawn up or let down. The pafiage over the (tone part of the bridge is fecured by a parapet wall on each fide, and the wooden arch by Chinefe rails. It is a work of confideruble uti- lity, not only to the inhabitants of Sandwich and the ifle of Tha- net, but to the eaftern part of the county of Kent., and to the public in general. The ftreets of Sandwich are narrow and irregular ; but there are fome good houfes, and an handfome fquare called the filh-maiket, which confifts principally of mops. Here is alfo another fquare called the corn-market i and riear the weft fide of this is the Town-hall, which is a very antient ftruclure.*— - Sandwich claims jurifdicliori over Deal, Ramf- gate, Ffe/rdwich, Sarre, and Brightiingfea, in Eflex, which are members of this cinque port. It ufed to furnifli five (hips com- pleat for fervice. This town was anciently incorporated by the name of the barons of the town and port of Sandwich j but at prefent is incorporated by the name of the mayor, ju- D d rats, 210 A NEW DISPLAY OF rats, and commonalty. It fends two members to parliament, who ftill retain the antient name of barons of the cinque port of Sandwich. The freemen of the cinque ports have the privilege of fending a certain number of their own members to fupport the royal canopy at a coronation. Befides the mayor, there are twelve jurats and twenty-four common council men, a town- clerk, two treafurers, and other inferior officers. — The trade of this town chiefly confifts in coals, fir, timber, deals, &c. with which the country is fupplied. Here alfo are (hipped corn, malt, fruit, and feeds, for London and other markets. The feeds raifed from this foil are in much repute. Sandwich is for the moft part fupplied with water from a nar- row ftream called the Delph, which runs through it. Here is a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and a fair on the 4th of December, which continues two days. The fhrimps which are caught near this town are remarkably excellent. There are feveral good inns in Sandwich, and many wealthy inhabitants. Here is alfo a large and elegant aflembly-room, which has been built within thefe few years. Since the conftruclion of the bridge, and the refort to Margate as a bathing-place, the town has been more frequently vifited by ftrangers; a tour from thence to Sandwich, Deal, Dover, &c. being a pleafant and agreeable txcurfion. between Sandwich and Deal is a large tract of land called the Downs, part of which is level, and part mountainous. Here are thofe remarkable eminences which Mr. Camden fays, were in his time called Rome's work ; now they are known by the name of Sand Hills ; commencing near Sandown Caftle, and fl retching toward Sandwich, along the fea fhore. The furface is in general a fine white fand, or thin covering of heath. On this coafl it is generally fuppofed that Caefar landed in both his ex- peditions to Britain. Sandown Caftle is a regular fortification, ereited on the fhore within a mile of Deal. There is another to the fouth of the town, called Deal Caftle, and beyond that is Walnier Caftle : they were built on this coaft by Henry VIII. to fee u re it from the hoftile intentions of his enemies. They are kept in good repair, and are under the government of the Lord Warden of the cinque ports. About a mile from Sandwich, at a fmall diftance from the road which leads to Dover, is the village of Wodenfborough ; the church contains memorials of the Paramour and Heyre fa- milies THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 211 milies. Near the church is a remarkable eminence, fuppofed to have been raifed by the Saxons as a pedeftal for their idol Wo- den, which ltood upon it, and from which the place derives its name. In the parifti of Walderjhire, which is fix miles and an half from Sandwich, the Earl of Guildford has a very elegant and pleafant feat. To the weft of thehoufe is erected a high Belvi- dere, which commands a beautiful and extenfive view of the country. Oppofite to Lord Guildford's feat, half a mile to the left of the road, are the remains of IVeJi Langdon Abbey. DEAL. This town is about five miles fouth-weft: of Sandwich, and feventy-two from London. It is divided into upper and lower Deal ; the former is the moft ancient, the latter having had its exiftence from the great increafe of trade. The trade of the inhabitants chiefly confifts in fupplying the fhips which ren- dezvous in the Downs. This town is a member of the port of Sandwich, and is governed by a mayor, and jurats fuhordinate to that town. Here is a market on WednefJays and Satur- days, and two fairs annually on the 5th of April, and 10th of Odober. DOVER Is at the diftance of feventy-one miles from London, and is fituated on the fea-fhore, in the narrower!: part of the channel that divides England from France ; the cliffs of Calais on the French coaft, being only thirty miles diltant. It is a very agree- able fea-port, the fituation being very romantic, at the foot of ieveral bold hills ; and the harbour in the center of the town, quite built round, is furrounded by quays, that are very pleafing to the view. From the caftle, and the hills near the town on the road to Hythe, are noble views down on the town, the har- bour, and the {hipping ; and over the channel, the high land:; in France are diftindtly leen. Dover is a place of great antiquity, and was undoubtedly one of the Roman ports in this country. It was a town of great repute in the time of Edward the Confefibr, when it was the principal of the cinque ports. It was formerly walled in , having ten or eleven gates ; and the walls are faid to have been built by the Emperor Severus ; but there are now but fmall re - D d 2 mains A NEW DISPLAY OF mains either of the walls or gates. There were alfo formerly ''even churches in Dover, but there are now only two. Dover Ca file is built on the extremity of the ftupendous cliffs which lorm the eaftern barrier to Dover town and harbour, and is fo large as to contain thirty-five acres of ground. There has been a fortification on this fpot ever fince the Romans poflefled this ifland, and it was of great repute among the Saxon Kings : it was thought a very important object by William the Norman j and through a courfeof ages Succeeding Kings built new towers, and increafed its natural ftrength to fuch a degree, that in Henry the Third's time it was called the key and barrier of the whole realm. This cattle contains a curious fpecimen of anci- ent fortification, and is well worthy of attention. St. Martin's le Grand is (aid to have been Situated here, for the fervice of the royal palace, which was in the caftle \ here is a tower at the weft end, which with the church bears evident marks of great antiquity. The bells which were in it were removed to Portf- mouth by Sir George Rook. There is a well in this caftle three hundred and fixty feet deep, lined to the bottom with free-ftone. In the caftle they fhew two veiy old keys, and a brafs trumpet, faid to have been ufed in the time of Julius Caefar. Here is a brafs gun, fuppofed to be the longeft in the world, it was present- ed to Queen Elizabeth by the States of Utrecht ; it carries a ball of fifteen pounds weight, is twenty-two feet long, and is faid to throw a ball feven miles. It is commonly called Queen Eliza- beth's pecket piftol. Dover is incorporated by the name of the mayor, jurats, and commonality of the town and p.rt of Dover, and fends two members to parliament ; it has received many favours from dif- ferent Princes, one of which was the privilege of a licenfed packet boat to France ; on account of the narrownefs of the channel, it is become the general place of embarkation for that kingdom, and arrival from thence. Jn the reign of Richard II. the fare from France for a fingle pafienger, in fummer time, was fettled at fix-pence, and a milling in winter. A market is kept here on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and a fair on the 22d of November. As Dover is one of the cinque ports, it may not be improper here to obferve, that this phrafe is derived from quinque partus^ Jive havens, that lie over againft France, and were thus called by way of eminence, on account of their Superior importance. Our Kings have thought them worthy a particular regard ; and 2 the THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 213 the better to fecure them againft invafions, have granted them a peculiar form of government. They are governed by a keeper, who has the title of Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. They had a particular jurifdiction granted them by King John, and feveral other privileges which have been confirmed by moll of his fucceflbrs. Their Warden, who was firft appointed by William the Conqueror, has the authority of an Admiral among them, and iflues out writs in his own name. The five original cinque ports, are Dover, Rumney, and Sandwich, in Kent; and Winchelfea and Rye, market-towns, of SufTex : and to thefe five original ports, there were afterwards added Haftings and Sea- ford, two other market-towns of Suflex ; and Hithe in Kent. When the fervice which was required of the cinque ports towards their prefervation became too burdenfome, eacii was allowed a certain number of other towns in its neighbourhood, as auxilia' ries, that they might bear a part in this public charge. The cinque ports claim the honour of fupporting the canopy, which at a coronation is borne over the Sovereign, and afterwards to dine at the uppermoft table on the King's right hand : the cano- py, {laves, &c. are their fee. Thirty-two barons or inhabitants of the ports ufed to be fummoned for this purpofe, whofe expences were borne by the ports ; but at prefent they ufually depute their members of parliament to that office. Near Dover Caftle there is a head of land called South Fore- land^ by way of diftindtion from another head or promontory, which forms the north -eaft point of the Kentifh fhore, and is therefore called North Foreland. Thefe two points lying at the diftance of fix miles from each other, are the two moft eafterly in Kent ; the coaft between them is fheltered by them on the fouth and north, and by a bank of fand, running parallel to the fhore for three leagues together, and at the diftance of a league and 1 half from it, called Godwin Sands, on the eaft. Thus the South Foreland, North Foreland, Godwin Sands, and the Coaft, form a tolerable good road for (hips, which is called the Downs, and which would othervvife be very dangerous, for the Godwin Sands, which are dry at low water, break all the force of the fea on the eaft, fouth, and fouth-wcft ; yet when the wind blows exccllive hard at fouth-eaft, eaft -by- north, and eaft-north-eaft, (hips are driven from their anchors, and forced 214 A NEW DISPLAY OF fored afhore on the Godwin Sands, or fent into Sandwich bay, or Ramfgate pier, near Sandwich. North Foreland is a point declared by act of parliament to be the moft fouthern part of the port of London, which by the fame adt is extended north in a right line, forming the mouth of the Thames, to the point called the Nafe, on the eaft of EfTex. All tht towns or harbours between London and thefe places, whether on the Kentifti or Eflex fhore, are called mem- bers of the port of London. As foon veffels have paffed the North Foreland, out of the port of London, or any of its members, they are faid to be in the open fea ; if to the North they enter the German Ocean j if to the fouth, the Bri- tifh Channel. B A R H A M DOWNS, Which are about fixty-two miles from London, are celebrated at prefent for the annual horfe races which are there exhibited. Several villages, and elegant gentlemen's feats, are fituated on the right and left of the Downs 3 on the right is an eminence, on the left a beautiful vale, in which runs a fmall branch of the river Stour. On the right is Denhtll Houfe and gardens, the feat of Lady Gray ; near which is Netberfole Houfe, the manfion of ■ Winchefter, Efq; which is htuated in the fmall village of Wymlingfwold. To the left of the downs, is the village of Barham, which gives name to this delightful fpot. The church has in it feme monument of the Diggs family, who refided at Diggs-Court, in this parifh. On Barham Downs is a fcite of an antient camp, with three ditches round it, which fome conjecture to be the work of Julius Ca?far, on his fecond expedition to this ifland. About the year 1212, King John encamped herewith an army of fixty thou- fand men, to oppofe the French, who threatened him with an invafion. Simon Montford, Earl of Leicefter, alfo drew up a large army on thefe downs in the reign of Henry 11*. Near Beakefborne, which is about fixty miles from Lon- don, Sir Thomas Pym Hales, member of parliament for the port of Dover, has a fine feat, known by the name of Howlets. FOLKSTONE Is fituated between Dover and Hythe, and is a member of the cintjue pert of Dover, it is feventy one miles from London, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 215 London, and appears to have been a very antient place, from the Roman coins and other antiquities which have been found in it. Here was formerly a nunnery ; but fo near the coaft, that it was often pillaged by the Danes, and at lalt fwallowed up by the fea. However, after the conqueft, a priory was founded here. Here is a charity- fchool for twenty boys, nominated by the mayor and jurats, who, with the commonalty, conftitute the corporation. A copious fpring runs through the town ; but it is chiefly noted for the multitude of fifhing boats that belong to its harbour, which are employed at the proper feafon in catching mackrell for London. And about Michaelmas the Fulkftone barks, with others from the Eflex more, fail away to the coafts of Suffolk and Norfolk, to catch herrings. In going from Dover to Folkftone, the traveller meets with fix or feven very romantic miles ; the road runs along the edge of vafl precipices, the more very high and bold, and nobly varied. From the hill, going down into Folkftonc, the view is extremely fine : you look down on a fine fweep of inclofures, many of them grafs, of the mod pleafing verdure. The town, with its church on a point of land clofe to the fea. The edge of the lower grounds defcribe as beautiful an outline as can be ima- gined : the union of the land and fea compleat. As you defcend the hill, the profpecSt extends to the right : the vale opens, and fpreads to the view a fine range of inclofures, bounded to the land by many hills, rifing in a great variety of forms : the whole fcenery is very magnificent. H I T H E Is fituated in the fouth-eaft part of the county of Kent, and is fixty-nine miles from London. It is a cinque port and corporation, governed by a mayor, jurats and common- alty. This town had anciently five parifh churches, though now it has only one. Here are two hofpitals, and a charity-fchool for thirty-eight boys. A remarkable pile of dry bones has been preferved in this town, and kept in a vault under the church, confid- ing of feveral thoufand heads, arms, legs, thigh bone?, &c. fome of which are very gigantic, and appear by an in- fc/iption to be the remains of the Danes and Britons killed in a battle near this place, before the Norman Con- queft. R U M- 2l6 A NEW DISPLAY OF R U M N E Y Is often called New Rumney, to diftinguifh it from an incon- fiderable town within a mile and a half of it, called Old Rum- ney. New Rumney is feventy miles from London, and is oae of the cinque ports, and a corporation, governed by a ma^or, jurats, and commonalty. The town ftands on a high gravelly hill, in the middle of Rumney Marfh. — Old Rumney was once a large town, containing twelve wards, and five churches ; and had a fafe and commodious haven, when the fea came fo clofe to it, that (hips ufed to anchor in one of the church -yards ; but the fea deferted it in the reign of King Edward I. and it has now but one church. It is faid that by a ftorm which happened here in 1334, above 300 windmills and houfes were carried away j which, together with the withdrawing of the fea, fo impovertfh- ed the place, that it could never recover it. Rumney Marjh is the richeft tradt of grazing land in this part of the kingdom. It contains between 40,000 and 50,000 acres of fruitful land, on which vaif. flocks of fheep, and herds of black cattle, are fattened, which are fent hither from other parts, and fold in the London markets. The fheep are reckoned ra- ther larger than thofe of Lticefterfhire and Lincolnfhire ; and their bullocks the largeft in England, efpecially thofe they call flailed oxen, from being kept aU the latter feafon within the far- mer's yards, or fheds, where they are fed for the winter feafon. This Marfh is the place from whence a fet of fmugglers, called OiulerSy from their going out in the dufk of the evening, have for many ages exported our wool to France. It is fuppofed to have been once covered by the lea j and, as it is very unwhole- lome, is but thinly inhabited. TENDERDEN Is an ancient town in Kent, at the diftance of fifty- eight miles from London. It is governed by a mayor and jurats. The beacon of the church here is remarkably lofty, and is proverbially faid to have been the caufe of fome dangerous fands in the channel, called Godwin Sands, of which we lately made mention. Thefe fands were a tradt of ground near the Ifle of Thanet, belonging to Godwin, Earl of Kent, which lying low, were defended from the fea by a great wall, that required a conftant care to uphold it. This tracl was afterwards given to St. Auflin's mo- naftery THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 2I7 riaftery, near Canterbury ; and the abbot negledling the wall* while he was taken up in building Tenterden fteeple, the fea broke in and overflowed the ground, leaving the fands upon it k At the time of the alarm of the Spanifti invafion, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a beacon was placed upon Tenterden fteeple. CRANBROOK Is fituated in a woody part of the county of Kent, and is the place where the firft woollen manufacture in the kingdom was erected, by thofe Flemings who were encouraged to fettle here by King Edward III. in order to teach the art to his fub- jects ; and excellent cloth ufed to be made here formerly ; but that trade has long fince decayed, and this is now only an in- confiderable place. TUNBRIDGE. This is a market town, at the diftance of thirty miles from London, fituated upon the river Medway, which here branches out into many little ftreams, over all which there are bridges : from thence it derives its name, which is compounded of Ton, the Saxon word for Town, and Bridge. It conlifts of one broad ftreet, adorned by fome very good modern houfes. Here is a good free-fchool, which was erected and endowed about two hundred years ago, by Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor of London, who veiled the care of it in the Skinners Company* It is kept in excellent repair, and is at prefent in a very flou- rifliing condition. There is nothing remarkable in the church, which is a neat modern building. Here is a market on Fridays^ and fairs held on Afti-Wednefday, the 5th of July, and the 29th of October. At the further end of the town, on the right hand, as you come from London, the noble rums of an old caftle flrike you with awe and veneration. It was built by Richard de Clare,' on a piece of ground which was given him by Langfranc, Archbi- fhop of Canterbury, in exchange for as rhuch land in Norman- dy, the meafurement being on both fides made with thongs of rawhides. It (lands upon an eminence dole upon the banks of the Medway, and has been very ftrong, and was anciently a place of confiderable importance. Edward I. was nobly feafted here in the fecond year of his reign, by Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucefter and Hertford. In the reign of Edward IV. E e this 2l8 A NEW DISPLAY OF this C3flle was in the pofleifion of Henry, Duke of Bucking- ham ; but in the reign of Henry VIII. both the town and cattle were forfeited to the crown by the attainder of Edward Staf- ford, Duke of Buckingham j and the latter has not been in the leaft repaired fince that time. Queen Elizabeth gave it to her kinfman, Henry, Lord Hunfdon ; from whole heirs it pafled irito private hands. Five miles from the town of Tunbridge, at the very edge of the county, are Spelhurjl Wells, more commonly called Tun- bridge Wells, which are much frequented on account of their mineral waters. Thefe wells are at the bottom of the walks, which are handfomely paved ; on one fide is the affembly-room, the coffee-rooms, the bookfellers {hops, jewellers and milliners fhops, and (hops for china, and for Tunbridge-ware, which is made here to great perfection out of holly, cherry-tree, and fycamore ; of which a great quantity grows hereabouts. On the other fide of the walks are coffee-rooms, another aflembly- room, and taverns, and lodging- houfes. The rnuiic gallery is in the middle of the walks, which are beautifully Ihaded with trees : a piazza extends from the upper end to the bottom, quite down to the wells. The houfes and lodgings are very neat and commodious ; moft of them on the hills contiguous, called Mount Sion, Mount Ephraim, and Mount Pleafant. Here is a decant chapel, which was built by fubfcription, and where divine fervice is peiformed every day : the Clergyman is paid by public contribution for his attendance. Here is alfo a diflent- ing meeting-houfe. The high rocks are about a mile from the walks, of which there are a vaft number adjoining to each other, and feveral of them are feventy or eighty feet high ; and at many places there are cliffs and cavities, that lead through them by narrow dark paflages ; and their being fituated among the woods, by a little winding brook, makes them afford a moft retired and delightful feene. PENSHURST Is three miles fouth-weft of Tunbridge, and was the anti- ent feat of the noble family of Sidney, but at prefent^f Wil- liam Perry, Efq. Penlhurft was forfeited to the crown by the attainder of one of the Vane family, who followed the fortune of the unhappy Somerfet in the reign of Edward VI. That monarch bellowed it upon the father of Sir Henry Sidney, in THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 219 in whofe arms he expired. This fact is mentioned in an in- fcription over the gate of the Tower, through which you pafs into the court-yard, which is a very large ancient quadrangle of hewn ftone, and was fortified in old times, being reckoned a place of no fmall ftrength. Here are many more rooms than are (hewn to ftrangers ; thofe that are opened are well furnifhed, and contain good pictures, tables, pillars, and vafes of fine marble brought lately from Italy, well worth the in- fpe£f.ion of the curious. The houfe lies very low, and clofe to a mean village, of great antiquity, of the fame name. A powerful family, called Pen{hu#ft, or Penchefter, was fet- tled here in the time of the Conqueror, which has been long extinct. The park, which was formerly very confiderable, is at prefent but fmall, being inclofed and divided into farms. The famous Sir Philip Sidney was born here; and it was here the celebrated Waller wrote many of his belt pieces, under the aufpices of Lady Dorothy Sidney, whom he has immortalized by the name of Saccharifla. This Lady was daughter to Sidney, Earl of Leicefter, to whom Penf- hurft then belonged ; and wife to Henry, Lord Spencer, created Earl of Sunderland by King Charles the Firft, in whofe defence he was flain, gallantly fighting at New- bury. Not far from Penlhurft is a noble ftru&ure, mouldering into ruins, called Somerhill, which ftands very high, and has a moft extenfive command of country. It antiently belonged to the Earls of Hertford and Gloucefter. Somerhill being for- feited to the Crown by Stafford, Duke of JSuckingham, was given by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Francis Walfingharn, with whofe daughter it pallid into the hands of three great families j for (he was married to three different hufbands. Her firft was the renowned Sir Philip Sydney ; her fecond the unfortunate Earl of Efl'ex ; and her third, Ulick de Burgh, Marquis of Clanrickard, Earl of St. Alban's, Vifcount Tunbridgc, and Baron Somerhill, one of the moft remarkable and accomplifh- ed Noblemen of King Charles the Firft's reign. Charles II, who ufed to come fometimcs to Tunbridge, kept his retinue at Somerhill. E e 2 MAIB 220 A NEW DISPLAY OF MAIDSTONE Is fituated on the river Medway, and is thirty-fix miles from London. In the time of the Britons it was their third chief city, it was alfo a ftation of the Romans, and has been a con- fiderable town in all ages fince. It is a large, pleafant, and po- pulous place ; and is a corporation, governed by a mayor and commonalty. The chief trade of Maidftone is in thread, which is made here in great perfection, and in hops, of which there are valt plantations, befides orchards of fine cherries, from this town, and the adjacent country, London is faid to be fupplied with more nccenaries of life, than from any other tnarket-town in England, particularly with large bullocks, tim- ber, wheat, hops, and apples. The county couits are held in this town, and generally the affixes. Here is a fine ftone bridge over the Medway, erected by one of the archbifhops of Can- terbury. At this place the river Len falls into the Medway, and the tide flows quite up to the town, and carries barges of fixty tons. — The weekly market on Thurfday is reckoned the beffc frequented of any in the county, and is toll-free for hops. There are four annual fairs here, viz. on the 13th of Fe- bruary, the i2thof May, the 20th of June, and the 17th of October. TVeJi Mailing is a market- town of great antiquity, thirty miles from London,, and where there was formerly a nunnery of the Benedictine qrder \ but it js. now an inconfiderahle place. MERE WORTH CASTLE. This fine feat is fituated two miles fouth-eaft of Mailing ; it was formerly the feat of the Earl of Weftmoreland, but is now ip the pofieflion of Lord Defpenfer. It is elteemed a very fine piece of architecture, and was defigned by Colin Campbell, * in imitation of a palace in Italy, built by the famous Palladio. It is a f.;uare extending eighty-eight feet, and has four porticos of the Jonic order. In the middle there rifes above the roof a fe- piicireular dome, which has two fhells ; the one forms the ftuc- co-ciding of trie faloon, being thirty-fix feet diameter ; the out- ward fhell is carpentry covered with lead. Between thefe two fhells is a ftrong brick arch, that brings twenty-four funnels to the THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 221 the lantern, which is finifhed with copper ; but by this contri- vance there is occafioned an inconvenience ; the chimnies often fmoke. SEVENOKE. This town, which is twenty-four miles from London, in the road to Tunbridge, is faid to have derived its name from feven very large and high oaks which flood near it, when it was firft built, but which have been long fince cut down- Here is an hofpital for maintaining poor old people, and a fchool for educating poor children, which was built and en- dowed by Sir William Sevenoke, who was Lord Mayor of London in 14.18, and who is faid to have been a foundling, bjought up by fome perfon of this town, , from whence he took his name. John Potkyn, who lived in the reign of King Henry the Eighth, was a great benefactor to the fchool ; and the revenue being augmented by Queen Elizabeth, it was from thence called Queen Elizabeth's free -fchool. It was re- built in 1727. At Knowle, in the neighbourhood of Sevenoke, the Duke of Dorfet has a fine feat, the park and gardens belonging to which are laid out in a very elegant manner. EAST GRINSTEAD. This is a town in SufTex, thirty miles from London, and which is fo called to dtftinguifh it from a fmall place of the fame name in the county, called Weft Grinftead. It is an antient borough by prefcriptiop, and has fent members to parliament from the time of Edward II. The town is but fmall, though it is the place where the county afiizes have been frequently held. There is an hofpital here, which was built in the reign of King James I. by Robert Sackville, Earl of Dorfet, who en- dowed it with 33ol.ayear, for the maintenance of thirty one poor perfons of this town. The weekly market is on Thurfday, and there are two fairs held here, one on the 13th of July, and the other on the 1 ith of December. Between Eaft Grinftead and Lewes, near Newick, Mr. Holyroyd has a very pleafing feat, known by the name of Sheffield Place, and which is lituated in one of the molt agreeable parts of the county of SulTex. The park is fine, *22 A NEW DISPLAY OF forming varied lawns well wooded, flielving into winding vales, and commandig very noble fweeps of richly cultivated coun- try. One vale takes an irregular courfe through the park and grounds; and the boundaries of which are well contrafted. In fome places thick woods of oak hang to the bottom ; in others copfes, inclofures, and fcattered trees ; in one fpot the hllis rife in a bold manner, intermixed with rocks and pendent woods. A fmall river takes its courfe through the vale, which is formed into two lakes, one of them at the foot of the ro- mantic ground abovementioned ; the other partly environed by a large wood, which on one fide is thick to the very water's edge ; but on the other the underwood againft the water is cleared away, and the land converted to lawn, but the trees left in it, which forms a moft agreeable retired fcene, backed by the thick wood. The lawn breaks away among the woods, and rifes to the houfe, which ftands on higher ground. This winding vale, fo rich in wood, water, and hanging fides of hills, is feen to great advantage from a feat in the park, from whence the view is truly piclurefque. Near the houfe is a wood of fixty acres, full of very fine timber, and cut into agreeable walks, one of which, that winds by the fide of the river in a fequeftered part of the valley, is very beau- tiful. LEWES. This town is fifty miles from London, and is a place of great antiquity, as appears from King Athelftan's having appointed bis royal mint to be kept here. It is a pleafant place, lituated in an open country, on the edge of the South Downs, and is one of the largtft and moil populous towns in the county of Sufiex. The aflizes are often held here. Though it is a bo- rough town by prefer iption, and fends two members to parlia- ment, it is not under the direction of a corporation ; but is go» rented by two conftables, who areamfled by the principal inha- bitants of the town. The town is large, and has fix parilh churches in it, and contains many handfome houfes ; and there are two large fuhurhs adjoining to it ; one called South-over, on the weft fide of the town ; and the other called Cliff", from its fituation on a chalky hill, on the eaft fide of the river Oufe. There are many gentlemen of fortune who rtfidc in this town, and its neighbourhood. There are feveial iron works in Lewes, particularly a foundery THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 223 foundery for cannon. There are feveral diflenting meetings here ; and a charity-fchool for boys, fupported by voluntary fubfcription. In the neighbourhood of this town horfe-races are often held* B A T T L E. This is a town inSuflex, fifty-fix miles from London, which derives its name from the battle in which William the Norman defeated King Harold, and obtained the crown of England. This battle was fought in a field called Heathfield, near this town : Heathfield is alfo near Haftings, and this battle is there- fore fometimes called the battle of Haftings. On the fpot where the body of the brave Harold was found, the Conqueror erected a ftately abbey in memory of that event; to which was given the name of Battle Abbey ; and he placed in it a number of Benedictine monks, to pray for the fouls of the flain. Not long after, feveral houfes were erected round it, and it at length became a town. Some of the remains of this abbey are yet (landing, but the town has gradually fallen to decay from the time of the reformation. The parifti church is a low Gothic ftruc- ture. The trade of the town confifts principally in making gunpowder, and that made here is efteemed the beft in Eng- land. The weekly market is on Thurfday, and there is a fair held here on Whit- Monday, and another on the 22d of November. About eight miles fouth-weft of Battle, are the remains of an ancient caftle, called Hurftmonceux , which was a place of great repute at the time of the Norman conqueft. RYE; This town is fixty four miles from London, and is an apx- pendage to the cinque port of Haftings. It is a peninfula, waihed on the weft and fouth by the fea, and on the eaft by the river Rother. The town ftands on the Ffide of a hill, and has a delightful profpecT: of the fea. In the reign of King Edward the Third, Rye was walled and fortified by William D'Ypres, Earl of Kent ; and there is a tower yet {landing, which bears his name, and is ufed for the town g^ol. Here is one of the largeft parifh churches in England, an handfome Gothic ftruc- ture; and there is a free grammar fchool here, founded and en- dowed A NEW DISPLAY OF dowed on a very benevolent and expen five plan ; for it is open for the reception of every child in the town who chufcs to go to it. This place formerly had one of the moft confiderable harbours between Portfmouth and Dover ; but for'a confiderable time it has been fo choaked up with fand, that the fmalleft vef- fel could fcarcely enter it ; and a confiderable part of the har- bour, gained from the fea, was turned into arable land. Some endeavours have lince been ufed to make it again a commodious harbour; andanadt of parliament was paffed to promote that defign in 1762. There is a market here on Wednefdays and Saturdays : and two fairs, one on Whit-Monday, and another on the 10th of Auguft. WINCHELSEA Is three miles from Rye, and fixty-feven from London. This town was built in the reign of King Edward the Firff, when an older town of the fame name, two or three miles to the fouth-eaft, which is faid to have been very large, was fwal- lowed up by the fea in a tempeif. The town enjoys the privi- leges of a cinque port, lends two members to parliament, and is governed by a mayor and three jurats. It is, however, a very inconfiderable place ; for it was not long after it was built, before it was deferted by the fea, after which it loft all its trade. There now remains little more than the fkeleton of a town ; for the ground where moft of the ftreets were formerly, is now turned into corn fields, or pafture grounds ; and of three parifh churches, there remains only the channel of one, which is ufed for divine fervice. There is a fair held here on the 14th of May. HASTINGS. This town is fixty-three miles from London, and is fup- pofed to have, derived its name from one Hafting, a Danilh pirate, who generally built a fmall fort wherever he landed to pillage, in order to cover his men, and fecure his retreat. This is the chief of the cinque ports, and is governed by a mayor, jurats, and commonalty. The town lies between two high cliffs, one on the fea, and another on the land- fide. Great quantities of fifh are taken upon this coaft, and ferit to I ondon. It is a populous place, and contains two parifh churches. The weekly markets are on Wed- nefdays and Saturdays 3 and there are three annual fairs here, 1 THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 225 here, namely on Whit-Tuefday, the 26th of July, and the 23d of Oclober. At JJhburnham, which is eight miles from Haftings, the Earl of Afhburnham has a fine feat. At Pevenfey, which is fouth-weftof Haftings, are the remains of a caffle, which was built by William the Conqueror, and which appears to have been a very venerable ftruclure. Beacby-bead is a famous promontory, near Pevenfey, and is reckoned the higheft cliff of all the fouth coaft of England ; for it projects over the beach to a greater perpendicular height, than the monument in London. Many {hips have been loft here in ftormy weather, and in the rock are many caverns formed by the violence of the waves. As this is reckoned the higheft beach on the fouth coaft of this ifland, and is divided into feven points or cliffs, it is well known to our mariners, who call it the Seven Cliffs. Seaforth is a frnall fifhihg town, near Beachy-head. It is a place of confiderable antiquity, and enjoys the privileges of a fea port. Newbaven is a fmall, but populous town, in the neighbour- hood of Seaforthi It has a convenient, though little harbour, and fome veflels are built here j and the trade of the place is not inconfiderable. B R I G H T H E L M S T O N E. This town is fifty eight miles from London, and is a place of fome antiquity ; but it is at prefent chiefly celebrated for the concourfe of nobility and gentry who vifit it, during the fummer feafon, for the benefit of bathing in the fea. The town is pleafantly fituated on a rifmg ground, near the fea, and the air is adeemed healthy. Before the civil wars in the laft century, this wasefteemed the greateft fifhing town in the coun- ty of SufTex ; but it has declined in that branch of trade ever fince, its chief dependence now being on the number of per- fons who refort here for the purpofeof bathing; though indeed many come here rather becaufe it is confidered as a genteel place of diflipation, than from any defire of benefitting their health by bathing in the fea. The town is divided into feveral fmall ftreets, between which there are lanes, wherein the poorer fort of people reude . The town hall ftands near the fea, and under it is a F f prifon* 4 226 A NEW DISPLAY OF prifon for felons, and a warehoufe in which the ftores are kept, they having a finall battery for guns, although they are not mounted but in time of war. The panfh church (lands at a little diftance from the town, and there are meeting-houfes for dill'enters and quakers. The Countefs of Huntingdon has alfo erected a chapul here at her own expence. There is a free- grammar (chool here, and two charity-fchools. There is every neceffary accommodation and convenience provided, for thofe who come here for the purpofe of bathing ; and a perfon is appointed to a£r. as mafter of the ceremonies, in the fame manner as at Bath, and who regulates the public meet- ings and diverfions. There is a weekly market on Thruf- day, well lupplied with all forts of provisions ; and there are two fairs held here, one on Holy Thurfday, and the other on the 4th of September. On the weft frde of Brighthelmftone, a great number of human bones have been found, from whence it is concluded that a battle was fought here. Many are of opinion that Caefar, in one of his expeditions into Britain, landed at this place. In the neighbourhood of this town an urn was dug up fome years ago, containing a thoufand filver denarii, and fome of all the emperors, from Antoninus Pius to Philip; and the altars of the Druids have no where been met with in greater numbers than about Brighthelmftone. NEW SHOREHAM Is nine miles from Brighthelmftone, and fifty-eight from London. It took its rife from the decay of Old Sborebam, now a fmall village north weft of it. Though moft of this town has been wafiied away by thefea, it is ftill a large populous place. The parifh church is a noble Gothic ftruclure. The harbour here is but indifferent, though {hips of conhderable burthen can come into it. Many artificers are conftantly employed here, in building fmall veflels for the coafting trade. There is a fair here on the 25th of July. Bramber, which is not far diftant from New Shoreham, was formerly a place of confiderable repute, but is now fallen to decay. Findon is a village between Bramber and Arun- del; and from this place, round by Houghton-bridge, along the edge of the Downs, towards Arundel, are very noble views over the wild. At one fpot in particular, where the road leads very near a precipice, the flope of the hill is fo fteep, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 227 fteep, that a boy could not crawl it, and fo high, that the immenfe country open to you, is feen below in fuch a man- ner, that almoft every enclofure is diftindt, in a vale ten miles long by three broad. A bold wave of the hill to the right and left, forms a dell at your feet at the foot of the down ; a thick clump of wood fills it, and forms a romantic fcene. The wave of the hill to the left is finely fringed with wood ; groves that fkiit the fields break from it, and diverfify the view : a farm with flacks, and a large water, under the (hade of a noble wood, form a complete piclure : other woods fpread- ing about the vale, are broken by innumerable inciofures, of which you have an admirable view. To the right, the down hills bear away one beyond another, forming very ftriking pro- jections. The whole is a fcene extremely magnificent. ARUNDEL Is fo called from its fituation in a dale, or valley, upon the bank of the river Arun. It is 56 miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription, having fent members to parliament from the thirteenth year of King Edward the Firfr, and is fo an- tient as to be mentioned in King Alfred's will. It is governed under a charter of Queen hlizabeth, by a mayor, twelve bur- geffes, a {reward, and under officers. The mayor is inverted with conliderable powers, and no writ can be executed within the borough without his permiffion. This town is p'eafantly fituated on the fide of a hill, and has an ancient caflle, faid to be a mile in compafs, and to have been budt in the time of the Saxons. William the Conqueror con- ferred this caftle on Roger de Montgomery, who repaired it, and was created Earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury; but he took his title from Arundel Caftle, where he refided ; and his fuc- ccflors long enjoyed it as a local dignity, together with the caftle; but the title being difputed, it was declared by adl of parliament in the reign of King Henry theSixih, that all per- Ions who had been, or mould be poffefled of the caftle and ho- nour of Arundel, were, and mould be, Earls of the fame, without any other creation ; and the title, manor, and caftle, fti!l continue infeparable. Arundel Caftle is in a better condi- tion than might be expected from its age, and is now one of the feats of the Duke of Norfolk, who enjoys the title of Earl of Arundel. Arundel church is a venerable Gothic ftruclure, and was formerly a collegiate.— There is a good wooden bridge here 1 f 2 over 228 A NEW DISPLAY OF over the river. — Four fairs are held here yearly, viz. on the 14th of May for cattle, on the 21ft of Auguft for hogs, on the 25th of September for fheep, and on the 17th of December for pedlary wares. CHICHES.TER. This City, which is fixty-three miles from London, is fup- pofed to derive its name from the Saxon words Cijftincecifler, which fignifies the City of Cifla ; and it was thus called from Cifla, the fecond king of the South Saxons, who rebuilt it after it had been deftroyed by fome Saxon and Norwegian pirates, and made it the royal refidence, and the capital of his kingdom. This city has been the fee of a bifhop ever fince the time of William the Conqueror. It is a county of itfelf, and is go- verned under a charter of King James the Second, by a mayor, a recorder, aldermen, and common council. Chichefter is furrounded by the river Lavant on every fide but the north, and is a neat compact city, inclofed by a (tone wall, with four gates, anfwering to the four points, eaft, weft, north, and fouth. From each of thefe gates there is a ftreet, which is denominated. from its gate, and terminates in the mar- ket-place, which is the center of the city, and is adorned with a flone piazza. In the middle is a ftately crofs, erected by Bifhop Story, about the beginning of the fixteenth century. The ftreets in general are broad, and the houfes uniform and well built. There is a cathedral in Chichefter, and five parifh churches. The cathedral is a neat, though fmall building, and is adorned with a fpire, much admired for its ftrength and curious work.- manftiip. There is an epifcopal palace here, which was re- built fome years ago, but it is rather large than elegant. This edifice, with the cathedral, and houfes of the prebendaries, takes up all that quarter of the city between the weft and fouth gates. The market houfe is a handfome ftrudture, and over it is a large room, in which the gentry have balls and public af- femblies. Much of the trade of this city confifls in making of malt j and here is alfo a confiderable manufactory of needles. The river is not deep enough near the city to make a good har- bour ; but here is fome foreign trade ; and a collector, with other officers of the cuftoms, at Dell Key, a fmall harbour, about four miles from the fea, where veflels come in at high water, and go out with wheat, flour, timber, and coals, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 229 for London and other ports. There are five annual fairs here ; viz. on the third of May, Whit-Monday, the fifth of Auguft, the tenth of October, and twentieth of the fame month. In the year 1723, a ftone was dung up at Chichefter, with an infcription, which, though fomewhat defaced, plainly in- timated, that it was the foundation ftone of a temple erected here in the reign of the emperor Claudius, and dedicated to Neptune and Minerva. In this city there have been alfo found, at different times, a great number of Roman coins. And when the epifcopal palace was re-built, the workmen dug up feve- ral antient coins ; and in the garden was difcovered a curious piece of Roman pavement. On the weft fide of Chichefter is a large Roman camp called the Brill. It is an oblong fquare, being about half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth. It lies in a flat low ground, with a great rampart and a (ingle graff, and is gene- rally thought to have been the firft camp of the emperor Vef- pafian, after his landing in Britain. Not far from Chichefter, on the fame fide, is another camp, called Gonfhiil, which is alfo fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Romans, it being like- wife an oblong fquare. — On a hill, north of the city, called Rook's Hill, or Roche's Hill, is an ancient camp of an orbi- cular form, fomething more than a quarter of a mile in diame- ter, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Danes. At a little diftance from Chichefter, the Duke of Richmond has a fine fe^t, known by the name of Goodwood. It for- merly belonged to the noble family of Piercy ; but being pur- chafed by the late Duke of Richmond, he pulled down the an- tient Gothic ftrudture, and erected a fine manfion, according to a plan drawn by Mr. Campbell, author of the Vitiuvius Bri- tannicus. It is a moft excellent ftrutture, and the profpe& from it is extremely delightful. Near Goodwood was* an antient cattle, now converted into a dwelling houfe, furrounded by fine gardens, from the win- dows of which there are fome admirable views. And near it is a fmall delightful village, called Boxgrove, where a monallery was founded in the reign of King Henry I. for monks of the Benedictine order. The church which belonged to this mo- nallery, is now ufed by the inhabitants of the parifh for divine fervice. About A NEW DISPLAY OF About five miles from Chichcfter, is Stansted Park, a fine feat which belonged to the late Earl of Hallifax ; who left it by will, to his natural daughter. It is a moft agreeable place ; and from the dining room windows there is a complete profpecl: of the Ifle of Wight, together with a view of the royal navy in Portfmouth harbour, St. Helen's, and Spithead. The gardens are delightful, and the walks in the park extremely rural. . AtBofebam, a village fouth-weft of Chichefler, now chiefly inhabited by fifhermen, a monaftery was founded before the year 68 r. And the parifh church here is a ftately Gothic edi- fice, which was built at the fole expence of William Warel- waft, Bifhop of Exeter, in the reign of Henry I. It was made collegiate for a dean and prebendaries ; and the flails for the pre- bendaries are yet Handing, over which are carvings of very anti- ent workmanfhip. The daughter of Canute the Great was buried here, and there is in the church an ancient monument, faid to be in memory of that Princefs. M I D H U R S T. This town is fifty -two miles diftant from London, and is a borough by prefcription, governed by a bailifF, chofen annu- ally by a jury at the court leet, It has fent members to par- liament ever" fince the year 131 1, the fourth of Edward II. and is a pretty large town, pleafantly fituated on a hill, furrounded with feveral other hills. There is a fair held here on Lady- day. Lord Vifcount Montacute has a very handfome feat at Cowdry, near Midhurft. It is one of the moft agreeable places in the county of SufTex. The fituation is in a beauti- ful valley, and the late Lord Montacute was at great expence in adorning the houfe, and making improvements in the park and gardens. The wars of Henry VJI1. are painted on diffe- rent parts of the rooms by Hans Holbein ; and here are por- traits of feveral noble perfons of this antient family by that artift. The new improvements in this feat are executed in the Gothic tafte; fo that the houfe, although modern, has all the appear- ance of antiquity. There are feveral agreeable villages in the neighbourhood of Midhurft, particularly Charlton, where the country gen- tlemen have houfes to keep their dogs and horfes for the chace ; THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 231 chace ; and amongft: others, there is one belonging to the Duke of Richmond, executed on a defign of the Earl of Bur- lington. P E T W O R T H Is forty-nine miles from London, and is a large, populous, handfome town, fituated on a fine dry afcent, in a healthy air. The church here is an indifferent ftruSure, though the reclory is the richeft in the county, being faid to be worth feven hun- dred pounds a year. There is a fair held at this place for black cattle on Holy Thurfdriy, and another for (heep and hogs on the 20th of November. The Earl of Egremont has a noble feat here, which for- merly belonged to Algernon, Duke of Somerfet. The front is of free-ftone, and adorned on the top with fratues: the great {fairs and apartments are magnificent ; the offices*are very commodious, and there is one vault near four hundred feet in length. This feat onginally belonged to the noble family of Piercy, and there is a fvvord in the armoury here, which is faid to have been the weapon of the famous Fienry Hotfpur, Lord Piercy, who was killed in the battle of Shrewfbury, fighting againft King Henry IV. H O R S H A M. This town derives .its name from Horfa, Brother of Hen- gift the Saxon, who is fuppofed to have had his refidence here. It is thirty- feven miles from London, and is a bcrough by pre- fcription, governed by two bailiffs, chofen yearly at the court- leet. The county aflizes are fometimes held here; and here is the county goal. This is one of the largeft towns in Suflex, and has a fine church, a large venerable Gothic {tru&urej and a well endowed free-fchool. The country round Horfham is well cultivated, and there is a quarry of excellent free-ftcne in the neighbourhood. The weekly market on Saturday, -is well fupplied with provifions, particularly poultry, of which the greateft part is bought up by the dealers in London — There are three fairs held here, viz. on the Monday before "Whitfunday, on the 1 8th of July, and the 27th of Novem- ber. — On the north-eaft of Hormam is the foreft of St. Leo- nard, where the neighbouring gentry enjoy the diverfion of hunting. HASLE* A NEW DISPLAY OF ■ ni w m i nin iw r ■i hi i w i i h i M l ■iiMi n iii m min ium , , , , HASLEMERE. This is a borough- town in the county of Surrey, at the dis- tance of forty-four miles from London. It is plcafantly fituated on the borders of SufTex, and is a place of confiderable anti- quity ; but is now greatly decayed. It is governed by a bailiff, and is faid to have had feven parifh churches formerly, though it has now no more than one chapel of eafe to Chiding- fold, a village about two miles to the eaft of it. There is a fair held here on the firft of May, and another on the 25th of September. G O D A L M I N Is an ancient town fituated on the river Wey, thirty-four miles from London, and ten from Haflemere. It is faid to have derived its name from Goda, a Saxon lady, who was the foun- drefsof a religious houfe. It is a flourifhing place, particular- ly for the manufactory of woollen cloth, and worried ftockings, of which laft great quantities are made here. It is faid, that in 1739, the Imall-pox carried off above five hundred perfons here in three months, which was more than a third of the inhabi- tants. There are feveral paper-mills in this towp, which have continued here ever fince the reign of King James I. There is a fair held here on the 13th of February, and another on the 1 oth of July. F A R N H A M Is fuppofed to have derived its name from the plant called Fern y with which this place formerly abounded. It is forty miles from London, and was given by Ethelbald, King of the Weft Saxons, to the fee of Winchefter ; the Bifhops of which fee have generally refided here in the fummer, ever fince the reign of King Stephen, in a Caftle built by that King's bro- ther, who was then Bifhop of Winchefter. This Caftle was a magnificent ftru&ure, with deep moats, ftrong walls, and towers at proper diftances, and a fine park ; but it is much de- cayed. This is a large and populous town, and here is one of the greateft wheat-markets in England : a great quantity of hops, faid to be as good as any in the kingdom, is produced in the neighbourhood of this place. This town fent members to par- liament in the reign of Edward II. but never fince. GUIL- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 233 GUILFORD. This town is fituated on the river Wey, at the diftance of thirty miles from London. In the time of the Saxons, as well as afterwards, it was a royal villa, where many of our Kings ufed to pafs the feftivals i and in particular King Henry II. King John and King Edward III. kept their Chriftmas here. This town is governed by a mayor, a recorder, feven aldermen, fixteen bailiffs, and other officers. The affizes for the county are held often here, and always the election of knights of the Ihire. The town is large, handfome, and well built ; and has always been famous for good inns, and excellent accommodations for travellers. There were three churches in this town, but one of them, being an ancient building, fell down in April 1740. Here is a free fchool, founded by King Edward the; Sixth, and an handfome alms-houfe, called Trinity-hofpital, Toanded by George Abbot, archbifhopof Canterbury, and en- dowed by him with lands worth 300I. a year, for the mainten- ance of a mafter, twelve brethreen, and eight lifters. Jt con- fifts of a handfome quadrangle, built of brick, with a tower and four turrets over the gate. It has a chapel, in which are two windows well painted. Here alfo are two charity-fchools, one for thirty boys, and the other for twenty girls. In the neighbourhood of Guilford, there is a fine circular courfe for horfe races, which begin when the Newmarket races end ; and King William III. left a plate of 100 guineas to be run for here every May. On the fouth fide of this town there is a chalky hill, called St. Catharine's Hill, from which there is an exceeding fine profpecl: to the north and north weftj and o which is remarkable for the following Angular and whimfxcal cuftom of the manor. The widow of every copyhold tenant is intitled to the whole co- pyhold eftate of her hufband fo long as (he continues unmar- ried and chafte ; if (he marries, flie lofes her widow's eftate without remedy; but if flie is guilty of incontinence, flie may recover her forfeiture, by riding into court on the next court day, mounted on a black ram, with her face towards the tail, and the tail in her hand, and repeating the following lines : \ The hill on which this ftands is called White Horfe Hill ; and to the north of this hill there is a long valley reaching from the weftern fide of the county, where it borders upon Wiltfhire, as far as Wantage, which from this hill is called the Vale of White Horfe, and is the moft fertile part of the county. FARRINGDON Is a neat clean town, fixty-eight miles from London, and pleafantly fituated on a hill near the river Thames. The church is a venerable Gothic ftruclure, and has painted glafs j THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 241 glafs in the windows, befides many antient monuments. — Henry Pye, Efqj has an handfome feat here. W A N T A G E. This is an agreeable market*town, fixty miles from Lon- don, and eight from Farringdon ; and is pleafantly fituated in a fine fporting country. This place was formerly a royal villa, and is faid to have been the birth place of King Alfred. — The country adjoining to Wantage is. extremely pleafant. EAST-1LSLEY. This is a fmall market town, fifty-four miles from London, agreeably fituated in a fporting country. The houfes in the town are neat, and the adjoining lands well cultivated. The market, which is held on Wednefday, is faid to be the greateft for fheep of any in England. About three miles eaftward of Ilfley is a village called Aid' worth, a place of great antiquity, where was formerly a calile, which was deftroyed in the reign of King Edward III. The parifh church is a venerable Gothic ftrudture, and has in itfeveral antient monuments ; among thefe are nine, with the figures of the deceafed cut in ftone, and lying in a fleeping potturc ; five of which are fuppofed to have been knights templars. The church-yard is extremely rural, and has in it one of the fincft yew-trees in England, being no lefs than twenty-feven feet in circumference. WALLIN GFORD Is forty-fix miles from London, and is a large town, and makes a good appearance. It is fituated on the river Thames, over which it has a ftone bridge, that is 309 yards long, having nineteen arches, and four draw-bridges. It has a market-houfe, over which is the town-hall. The chief fupport of this town is the malt trade. There was formerly a famous cafile here, fome remains of which are yet to be feen. Within a mile of this town is a farm called Chofely, the lands belonging to which lie all together, and are let at one thoufand pounds per annum ; and there is one barn on the eftate, the roof of which is three hundred and fix feet long. — This ufed to be confidered as the largeft farm in England, but it is pro- bably not fo now, fince the pernicious practice of engrolfing and enlarging farms has become fo prevalent. Some artful reafoners have, indeed, endeavoured to prove, that large farms H h are 242 A NEW DISPLAY OF are moft advantageous to the community ; but the arguments brought in fupport of this opinion, appear to be extremely fo- pbiftical ; and it is certain, that an equitable and benevolent go- vernment would chufe to encourage that mode of cultivating the earth, that was moft favourable to population, and by which the greateft number of induftrious families might be comfort- ably fupported ; which cannot be the cafe when the monopoli- zation of farms becomes general, and which therefore may juft- ly be confidered, for this and various other reafons, as a moft pernicious practice. ABINGDON Is fituated on a branch of the Thames, at the diftance of fifty-fix miles from London. It is a, large, populous, and flou- rifhing town : the ftreets are well paved, and center in a fpaci- ous area, where the market is held. In the center of this area is the market-houfe ; which is a curious building of afhler-work, fupported on lofty pillars, with a large hall of free-ftone above, in which the aflizes are frequently held, and other public bufinefs tranfacted. There was formerly a very magnificent abbey here, which was deftroyed at the general diflblution of the mona- fteries. Here are two parifh churches, both of which are faid to have been built by one of the abbots of Abingdon. There is alfo here a well endowed free-fchool, and two alms-houfes for poor people of both fexes. The trade carried on by the in- habitants of this town chiefly confifts in dealing in corn, and preparing malt, which is conveyed down the river in barges to London. OXFORD. This famous city is fifty-five miles from London, and is a place of great antiquity, but is chiefly diftinguifhed for its illu- ftrious univerfity. It is fituated on the banks of the Thames, near its confluence with feveral other rivers, in a beautiful plain, and a fweet air. It is encompafled by meadows and corn- fields. The meadows, which are chiefty to the fouth and weft, are about a mile in extent } beyond which are hills of a moderate height, bounding the profpe£L The eaftern pro- fpecl is likewife bounded by hills at a little diftance. The north is open to corn-fields and enclofures for many miles together, without an hill to intercept the free current of air, which purifies it from noxious vapours. When this city THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 243 was firft fortified does not appear ; but the walls now re- maining are fuppofed to have been raifed upon fome former foundation about the time of the Norman invafion. Ro- bert D'Oilie eredted the cattle, at the command of William the Norman in 1071. Its maffy ruins {hew its flrength and extent. Oxford, including the fuburbs,-is a mile in length from eaft to weft, and almoft as much in breadth from north to fouth, being three miles in circumference ; but it is of an irregular figure, and feveral void fpaces are comprehended within thefe limits, befides the many courts and gardens belonging to the rs- fpe£Hve colleges. The city, propeily fo called, which was formerly furrounded by a wall, with baftions, at about one hundred and fifty feet diftance from each other, is of an ob- long form. There are ftill fome confiderable remains of the old walls. The ftreets of Oxford are fpacious, clean, and regular ; the private buildings in general are neat, and the public ones fumptuous. There is a cathedral here, and thirteen parifh churches. The city is governed by a mayor, a high-fteward, a recorder, four aldermen, eight ailiftants, a town-clerk, other officers, and twenty-four common councilmen. The mayor, for the time being, officiates at the coronation of our Kings, in the buttery, and has a large gilt bowl and cover for his fee. The magiftracy of this city is fubje&ed to the chancellor or vice-chancellor of the univerfity, in all affairs of moment, even relating to the city ; and the vice-chancellor every year admini- flers an oath to the magiftrates and fherifTs, that they will main- tain the privileges of the univerfity. And on the 10th of Fe- bruary annually, the mayor and fixty-two of the chief citizens folemnlypay each one penny, at St. Mary's church here, in lieu of a great fine laid upon the city, in the reign of King Ed- ward III. when fixty-two of the (tudents were murdered by the citizens. The town-hall here is a neat modern edifice, in which the aflizes for the county, and the city and county fefiions are held ; and there are in this city five or fix charity fchools, in which about three hundred children are taught and cloathed. There are two ftone bridges here over the Thames, which is navigable by barges to the city, from whence large quantities of malt are fent by barges to London. H h 2 The 244 A NEW DISPLAY OF The UNIVERSITY Is one of the nobleft in the world, efpecially for the opulency of its endowments, and the conveniency of its manfions for ftudy. It confifts of twenty colleges, and five halls, and is a corporation governed by a chancellor, a high-fteward, a vice- chancellor, two proctors, a public orator, a keeper of the archives, a regifter, three efquire- beadles, carrying filver maces gilt and wrought, and three veomen beadles, with plain filver maces, and a verger with a filver rod. The chancellor is ufual- ly a peer of the realm, he is the fupreme governor of the uni- verfity, and is chofen by the ftudents in convocation, and conti- nues in his office for life. The high fteward is named by the Chancellor, but mult be approved by the univerfity. His office, which continues alfo for life, is to affiff. the chancellor in the go- vernment of the univerfity, and to hear and determine capital caufes, according to the laws of the land, and the privileges of the univerfity. 1 he vice-chancellor, who is always in orders, and the head of fome college, is appointed by the chancellor, and approved by the univerfity j he is the chancellor's deputy, and exercifes the power of his fubftituent, by governing the uni- verfity according to its ftatutes ; he chufes four pro-vice-chan- cellors out of the heads of colleges to officiate in his abfence. The two proctors are mafters of arts, and are chofen annually in turn out of the feveral colleges and halls. Their bufinefs is to keep the peace, punifh diforders, infpect weights and meafures, appoint fcholaftic exercifes, and the taking of degrees. The public orator writes letters in the name of the univerfity, and harrangues princes and other great perfonages who vifit it. The keeper of the archives has the cuftody of the charters and re- cords ; and the regifter records all the public tranfactions of the univerfity in convocation. Befides the public officers of the univerfity which have been mentioned, there are particular and private officers in all colleges sno halls, to fee that due order and difcipline be obferved and kept up, lectures read, difputations performed, and all the libe- ral fciences read and taught, as logic, phyfics, ethics, metaphy- lics, aftronomy, geography, and geometry, &c. of which alfo there are public lecturers and profeflors. The degrees taken in the univerfity are in divinity, law, phyfic, and aits; four years are required for taking a ba- chelor of arts degrees i feven years for a mafter of arts; fourteen THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 24s fourteen years for a bachelor of divinity ; eighteen years for a do&or of divinity ; feven years for a bachelor of laws, phylic, or muficj and twelve years for a doctor of laws, phy- tic, or mufic. As to the antiquity of Oxford, it is fuppofed to have been a confiderable place even in the time of the Romans ; and Camden fays, that " wife antiquity did, even in the Britifli \* age, confecratc this place to the mufes." Before the time of King Alfred it was ftiled an univerfity ; and the beft hiftorians admit, that this moft excellent prince was only a reftorer of learning here. Alfred built three colleges here ; one for divi- nity, another for philofophy, and a third for grammar. The number of officers, fellows, and fcholars, maintained at prefent by the revenues of this univerfity, is about 1000, 'and the number of fuch fcholars as live at their own charge is uiually about 2000 ; the whole amounting to 3000 perfons, befides a great number of inferior officers and fervants, belonging to the feveral colleges and halls, which have each their ftatutes and rules for government, under their refpe£tive heads, with fel- low* and tutors. Here are four terms every year for public cx- ereifes, lectures, and difputations, and let days and hours when the profeffors of every faculty read their lectures, and in fome of the colleges are public lectures, to which all perfons are ad- mitted. The Public Schools. Thefe, with one fide of the Library on the weft, form with- in a fpacious fquare of 105 feet. The principal front of the fchools on the outfide is about 175 feet in length, in the mid- dle whereof is a great a;ate, with a magnificent tower over it, which is Sir Henry Saviie's library; and the higheft apartments of the tower are ufed for aftronomical obfervations, and fome experiments in philofophy ; and from thence called the Obfer- vatory. The Schools are as follows, 1. the Divinity fchool ; 2. the Anatomy fchool ; 3. the Natural Philofophy fchool ; 4. the Moral Philofophy fchool ; 5. the Law fchool ; 6. the Hiftory fchool; 7. the Language fchool; 8. the Geometry fchool j q. the Metaphyfic fchool ; 10. the Logic fchool ; 1 1, the Mu- fic fchool ; a new one was built in Holywell, in 1747 ; 12. the Affronomy fchool ; 13. the Rhetoric fchool. Tn thefe" public fchools the profeflbrs are to read their lectures in the feveral fcienccs every day in the week during term- 246 A NEW DISPLAY OF term-time, except Sundays. In which fchools likewife all fcho- lars are obliged, by the ftatutes of the univerfity, at fuch and fuch certain times to perform fuch and fuch exercifes for their fe- veral degrees, as difputations, declamations, examinations, lectures, &c. Three fides of the upper ftory of the Schools, form one en- tire room, which is called the Picture Gallery. It is furnifhed with the portraits of many learned and fa the , fevei al large cabinets of medals, and fome cafes of books ing intended as a continuation of the Bodleian library. A: the paintings, are portraits of King Alfred, WJllja Wykeham, Biftiop of Winchefter, Sir Thomas Be Wallis, Sir Henry Savile, Sir Hans Sloane, Dr. H< muel Butler, Archbifhop Ufhur, Hugo Grotius, Joleph oca- lagier, Ifaac Cafaubon, Meric Cafaubon, Era' Holbein, Francifcus Junius by Vandyke, Joh taigne, Father Paul, Dr. Edward Pococke, : r, Dr. Henry Hammond, Sir Thomas M01 ice, Samuel Bochart, Sir William Dugdal ., Ben Jonfon, Pope, Prior, Swift, the Earl 01 Rad- cliffe, Lord Falkland, Mr. Locke, and • .minent and learned perfons. The Arundel marbles are placed to adv. in a large apartment on the north fide of the fchools. t ney confift of fome very antient monuments, both Greek and Latin, procured from the Levant, and were moft of them the gift of Henry Howard, Earl of Arundel. In the Logic and Moral Philo- fophy fchool is alfo placed a fine collection of ftatues, buftos, and marble fculptures, which were many years at Eaffon, the feat of the Earl of Pomfret, and were presented to the Univer- fity of Oxford by the late Countefs of Pomfret. The University Library, ufually called the Bodleian Library, from Sir Thomas Bodley its principal founder, is a large, lofty ftru&ure, in the form of a Roman H, and is faid to contain the greateft number of books of any library in Europe, (except perhaps the Vatican) a catalogue whereof is printed in two volumes, folio. The original library has been prodigioufly increafed by many large and valuable collec- tions of Greek and Oriental manufcripts, as well as other choice and curious books. — Among a great number of moft valuable books in this library, are the following : — 1 he four Gofpels in Greek, above 1000 years old, in large capital letters. THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 247 letters. — The four Gofpels, a Latin manufcript, one thoufand four hundred years old, fuppofed to have been one of thofe books which were brought over into Britain by St. Auguftine. The Acts of the Apoftles, in Latin and Greek, thought to be as old as the laft, and to have formerly belonged to Venerable Bede. The Ratcliffe Library is fituated between St. Mary's church and the public fchools, and was built at the fole expence of that eminent phyfician Dr. John Radcliffe, who bequeathed forty thoufand pounds for this purpofe. It is a fumptuous pile of building, ftanding upon arcades, which circularly dif- pofed, indole a fpacious dome, in the center of which is the library itfelf, and into which there is an afcent by a flight of fpiral fteps, well executed. The library, which is a compleat pattern of elegance and majefty in building, is adorned with fine compartments of ftucco. It is inclofed by circular feries of arches, beautified with feftoons, and fupported by pilafters of the Ionic order ; behind thefe arches are formed two circular galleries above and below, where the books are difpofed in ele- gant cabinets ; the compartments of the cieling in the upper gallery are finely ftuccoed j the pavement is of two colours, and made of a peculiar fpecies of {tone brought from Hart's Foreft in Germany ; and over the door is a ftatue of the founder. The finifhing and decorations of this Attic edifice are all in the higheft tafte imaginable. The Theatre at Oxford is another moft magnificent ftru&ure, which was eredted by Sir Chriftopher W ren, at the expence of Archbifhop Sheldon. The building is in the form of a Roman D ; the front of it, which ftands oppofite to the divinity fchool, is adorned with Corinthian pillars, and feveral other decorations. The greateft curiofity of this theatre is its flat roof, which has no pillars to fupport it, being entirely kept up with braces and fcrews, and whofe main beams are made of feveral pieces of timber, from fide wall to fide wall, eighty feet over one way, and feventy the other, whofe lockages are in feveral refpefts perhaps not to be paralleled in the world ; and is the fubjecl of art excellent mathematical treatife, writ- ten by the learned Dr. Wallis. The infide of this flat roof is decorated with allegorical painting. In this edifice are kept the public acts, called the Comitia or Encania ; at which 10- lemn times, for the prefervation of order, there are appointed, befides the cur«tors of the theatre, feveral proftors of it, who are 248 A NEW DISPLAY OF are to take care that the public peace is kept undifturbed, and that all perfons be placed in their proper ftations. When the theatre is properly filled, the vice-chancellor being feated in the center of the femi-circular part, the noblemen and doctors on his right and left hand, the proctors and curators in their robes, the matters of arts, batchelors, and under graduates, in their refpective habits and places, together with ftrangers of both fexes, it makes a moft auguft appearance. On the weft of the Theatre is the Ashmolean Museum, which is an handfome edifice, that was finifhed in 1682, by Sir Chriftopher Wren, and is rernarkable for its fymmetry and elegance. The eaftern portico is highly finifhed in the Corin- thian order, and adorned with variety of characteriftical embel- lifhments. This Mufeum is a famous repofitory of natural and artificial rarities, and of feveral Roman antiquities, as altars, lamps, medals, Sic. and the building was erected at the expence of the Univerfity, at the requeft of Elias Afhmole, Efq; who placed here the large collection of rarities which he had collect- ed and purchafed. And this collection has been fmce greatly enriched by feveral ample and valuable benefactions. The principal natural curiofities confift of the bodies, horns, bones, &c of animals, preferved dry, or in fpirits ; curious and nu- merous fpecimens of metals, minerals, fhells, ores, and foffils. On the firft floor of this building lectures are read in experimen- tal philofophy ; and, in proper apartments underneath, is an elaboratory for courfes of chemiftry and anatomy. There are three fmall libraries in this edifice, the firft called Afhmole's ftudy, which contains his printed books and manufcripts relating to heraldry and antiquity, and the manufcripts of Sir William Dugdale j the fecond contains Dr. Lifter's library ; and the third that of Anthony Wood, with his laborious collections, chiefly relating to this city and univerfity. On the other fide of the theatre, and north of the fchools, ftands the Clarendon Printing House, built in the year 17 h, with the profits arifing from the fale of Lord Claren- don's Hiftory ; the copy of which was given to the Univerfity by the Lords Clarendon and Rochefter, fons of that nobleman. It is a grand edifice, one hundred and fifteen feet in length j and confifts of two lofty ftories. Towards the ftreet, is a mag- nificent portico in the Doric order; the height of the columns being equal to the two ftories. T his is anfwered on the oppo- fite fide, next the fchools, by a frontjfpiece fupportcd by three quarter THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. ?49 quarter columns of the fame dimeniions ; and the Doric enta- blature encompafles the whole building. On the top, are fta- tues of the nine Mufes ; and over the entrance on the fouth fide a ftatue of the Earl of Clarendon. As we enter on this fide, on the right hand, are the apartments where bibles and common prayer-books are printed, under the privilege and ap- pointment of the univedity. On the left, is the univerfity- prefs. Befides the apartments afligned for the compofitors, preff- men, &c. there is one with a lobby, or ante-chamber, where the heads of houfes and delegates meet, which is well propor- tioned and highly finifhed. in this room is a very good piiiure of Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. The Physic Garden is fituated on the fouth of Magda- len college, and was given to the univerfity by Henry D'An- vers, Earl of Danby, who purchafed the ground, contair.inor five acres, of Magdalen college, furrounded it with a lofty wall, and erected, next to the ftreet, a parapet, with iron palifades thereon. The piers which fupport thefe and other iron- work, are properly ornamented with vafes of fruits and flowers of va- rious kinds, ferving as a fence to the green-court, through which we pafs to the gateway ; thedefign of which is attribu- ted to Inigo Jones, and is juftly efteemed an elegant piece of architecture. In the center over the arch is a buft of the founder, Lord Danby ; and on the left hand of the entrance is a ftatue of Charles I. and on the right hand, one of Charles II. The garden is divided into four quarters, with a broad walk down the middle, a crofs walk, and one all round. Near the entrance, are two elegant and ufeful green -houfes, one on the right, the other on the left, built by the univerfity for Exotics, of which there is a confiderable collection. In the quarters, within the yew hedges, is the greateft variety of fuch plants as require no artificial heat to nourifh them, all ranged in the proper clafies, and numbered. Eaftward of the garden, without the walls^ is an excellent hot-houfe ; where tender plants, fuch whofe native foil lies between the Tropics, are raifed and brought to great perfection j viz. the anana or pine apple, the plantain, the coffee flirub, the cinnamon, the creeping cereus, and many others. This ufeful foundation has been much improved by the late Dr. Shenai I, who brought from Smyrna a valuable collection of Botanical Books, and a valuable Hortus Siccus. T he eaft end of the builu ng is the apartment for the profeflbr, whofe falary is paid out of the intereft of three thoufand pounds, given by Dr. Sher- I i rard A NEW 'DISPLAY OF rard for that purpofe. An affiftant to the profeflbr is provided by the univerfity. We now proceed to give fome account of the feveral Colleges and Halls of this famous uni- verfity.. Magdalen College is fituated without theeaft gate of the city, on the bank of the river Cherwell ; a Doric portal, (decorated with a ftatue of the founder, and other figures,) leads to the weft front of this college, which is a ftriking fpeci- men of the Gothic manner- The firft court is a venerable old quadrangle, furrounded by a cloifter, on the fouth fide of which are the chapel and hall ; the windows of the chapel are finely painted ; the hall is a (lately Gothic room, adorned with fine paintings. From this court there is a narrow paflage on the north, that leads to a beautiful opening, one fide of which is bounded by a noble and elegant edifice, in the modern tafte, coniifting of three ftories, and three hundred feet in length. This college is remarkable for a moft beautiful fituation, and a charming profpecl:. It was founded in the reign of Henry VI. by William Patten, commonly called William of Wainfleet, Bifhop of Winchefter. It confifts of a prefident, forty fellows, thirty demies, fchool-mafter, and ufher, four chaplains, an or- ganift, eight clerks, and fixteen chorifters, and three readers of divinity, and natural and moral philofophy. The whole num- ber of ftudents, including gentlemen commoners, is about one hundred and twenty. The Grove belonging to this College, which is laid out in walks, and well planted with trees, feems perfectly adapted to indulge contemplation j it has in it about forty head of deer. Befides the walks which are in the grove, there is a very de- lightful, and much frequented one, round a meadow contain- ing about thirteen acres, furrounded by the feveral branches of the Cherwell, from whence it is called the Waterwalks. It is fhaded with tall trees, and there is an agreeable view of the ad- jacent country. Queen's College is fituated on the north fide of the High-ftreet, oppofite Univerfity College. The front of this College is in the ftile of the palace of Luxemburgh, and is at once elegant and magnificent : in the middle of it a cupola, under which is a ftatue of the late Queen Caroline. This beautiful college is one entire piece of well executed modern architecture ; the whole area on which it ftands is an oblong fquare, 300 feet in length, and 220 in breadth; which area THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 251 being divided by the hall and chapel, is formed into two courts j the firft, or fouth court, is one hundred and forty feet in length, and one hundred and thirty in breadth; it is furrounded by a beautiful cloyfter, except upon the north fide, which is formed by the chapel and hall, and finely finifhed in the" Doric order : in the center, over a portico leading to the north court, frauds a handfome cupola, fupported by eight Ionic columns ; the north court is 130 feet long, and 90 broad. On the weft (rands the library, which is a fine pile of buildings of the Corinthian or- der, upwards of one hundred feet in length. This college was founded by Robert de Eglesfield, chaplain to Queen Phiilippa, wife to King Edward ill. That princefs was a benefacirefs to this college, and it was in compliment to her that it was ftiled Queen's College. Its revenues have been much increa- ied by feveral benefactors ; and its members are one provoff, fixteen fellows, two chaplains, eight taberdars (fo called from < Taberdu?n i a fhort gown which they formerly wore) fixteen cholars, two clerks, and forty exhibitioners ; eight fellows, and four fcholars, fupported by an eftate left to the college by Mr. Mitchell, of Richmond ; befio'es a great number of ma- ilers, bachelors, gentlemen commoners, and other ftudents ; in all about 110. — Among other fingular cuftoms in this college, one is, that of calling the ftudents to dinner or fupper every day by the found of a trumpet ; and another is*, having a Boar's head on Chriftmas day, ufhered in very folemnly with an old Monkifh fong. University College is afpacious, fuperb, and uniform ftrufture, began in 1 634., at the expence of Charles Green- wood, formerly a fellow here, and carried on by Sir Simon Bennet, and completed by Dr. John Radcliffe. The magni- ficent north front of this college is extended two hundred and fixty feet along the fouth fide of a ftreet called the High-ftreet, having two ftately portals with a tower over each j the weftern portal leads to an handfome Gothic quadrangle, one hundred feet fquare ; on the fouth fide of the eaftern quadrangle are the chapel, and hall j there is alfo a third court of three fides, each of which are about eighty feet. — The Hall, at the entrance of which is a ftatue of King Alfred, has been lately fitted up in a very beautiful Gothic ftyle, and is a mod complete room of the kind. The colleges, or halls, which were erected by King Alfred in the year 872, were fituated near, or on the fpot where this college now Itands ; and that excellent Prince gave the I i 2 ftudents 45^ A NEW DISPLAY OF ftudents in his fetninaries certain penfions ifluing from the Exchequer. But thefe halls were loon alienated to the citi- zens of Oxford, and their penfions were fuppreffed about the reign of William the Norman. But in 1219, William arch- deacon of Durham purchafed of the citizens, one of the halls which had been originally erected by Alfred, and endowed it with lands. A fociety being thus eftablifhed, many other be- nefactors improved the revenues and buildings. This coU lege now has a matter, twelve fellows, feventeen fcholars, and many other fludents, amounting in the whole to above feventy. All Souls College was founded in 1437, by Henry Chicheley, archbifhop of Canterbury ; and contorts chiefly of two courts. The fir ft court is a Gothic edifice, 124 feet in length, and 72 in breadth ; the chapel on the north fide is a ftately pile ; and the hall, which forms one fide of an area to theeaft, is an elegant modern room, adorned with many por- traits and bufts. Adjoining to the hall is the buttery, which is a well proportioned room, of an oval figure, and an arched ftone roof, ornamented with curious workmanftiip. The fe- cond court is a magnificent Gothic quadrangle, 172 feet in length, and 155 in breadth ; on the fouth are the chapel and hall, on the weft a cloifter, with a grand portico ; on the eaft two Gothic towers, in the center of a range of fine apartments, and on the north a library of unccmmon magnificence. It is 200 feet in length, 30 in breadth, and 40 in height, and finifh- ed in the moft fplendid and elegant manner. It was built at the expenceof Colonel Codrington, who laid out in it fix thoufand pounds, and aifo gave his own library to be depofited in it, and four thoufand pounds to purchafe new books. This col- lege maintains a warden, forty fellows, two chaplains, and nine fcholarftiips. Brazen-nose College was founded in the year 1507, by the joint benefaction of William Smith, Bifhop of Lin- coln, and Sir Richard Sutton. There is a brazen-nofe on the top of the College g;te, which gives denomination to the college. The refectory is neat and convenient, adorned with pictures of the principal benefactors, and good paintings in glafs of the two founders. It ftandson the fouth fide of the firft quadrangle, in the center t>f which is a fta'ueof Cain and Aotl ; the figures of which are very ftriking. Through a pafl'age on the left hand of the gate of the firft quadrangle we THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 253 we enter the fecond. This is a more modern ftru&ure than the other, and fuppofed to have been ere&ed by Sir Chriftopher Wren. This college maintains a principal, twenty fellows, thirty-two fcholars, and four exhibitioners j and there are about forty ftudents befides. Hertford College ftands oppofite to the grand gate of the public fchools, and confifts of one irregular court, which has been lately beautified, from a fund raifed for that purpofe. Part of this court confifts of a few modern buildings, in the ftile of which the whole college is to be rebuilt, according to a plan conhfting of one quadrangle, projected in the year 1747. This college confifts of a principal, two fenior fellows or tutors, junior fellows or affiftants, thirty under-graduate- ftudents, and four fcholars. New College was founded by the famous William of Wykebam, Bifhopof Winchefter, in the year 1375. It has been called New College from its firft foundation, being at that time highly regarded for its extent and grandeur. The firft court is 168 feet in length, and 129 in breadth ; in the center of which is a ftatue of Minerva. The north fide, which con- fifts of the chapel and hall, is a venerable fpecimen of Gothic magnificence ; the two upper ftories of the eaft fide form the library, and on the weft are the lodgings of the warden. The chapel, for beauty and grandeur, exceeds all in the univerfity ; and near it is a cloifter, 146 feet in length on two fides, and 105 the other two. Contiguous to it on the north, is a large and lofty tower, with ten bells. From the firft quadrangle there is a pafTage into another, called Garden- court, the beautiful area of which, by means of a fucceflion of retiring wings, difplays itfelf gradually in approaching the gar- den, from which it is feparated by an iron palifade, 136 feet in length. On the north fide of the chapel is preferved the crofier of the founder, which is ufually fhewn to ftrangers ; a well pre- ferved piece of antiquity, and almoft the only one in the king- dom. It is of filver gilt, and near feven feet bight, finely work- ed and embellifhed in the Gothic tafte ; and though it is near four hundred years old, it has loft little of its original beauty.— In the garden of the college, there is a lofty artificial mount, encompaffed with feveral hedges of juniper, adorned with trees cut into feveral fliapes, with ftone fteps and winding walks tip to the top, and the top encompaffed with rails and feats, and A NEW DISPLAY OF and a tree growing in the middle. Here are alfo fhady walks, arbours, and a bowling green, — The members of this college arc one warden, feventy fellows, ten chaplains, three clerks, fixteen chorifters, and one fexton, together with many gentle- men commoners. Wadham College, was founded by Nicholas Wad- ham, Efq; and built, in purfuance of his will, by Dorothy his widow, in 1613. It is one of the moft regular, uniform, and beautiful colleges belonging to this univerfity ; and confifts of one noble quadrangle, which is near one hundred and thirty feet fquare. The windows of the chapel, which ftand on the eaftfideof the court, are beautifully painted ; the eaft window i& admirably drawn by one Van Ling, a Dutchman ; it repre- fents the paflion of our Saviour, and is faid to have coft one thoufand five hundred pounds. The prefent members of this college are the warden, fifteen fellows, two chaplains, fifteen fcholars, and fixteen exhibitioners ; the whole number of ftu - dents being ufually about eighty. The fcholars, out of whom the fellows are to be chofen, to be taken three out of Somerfet- fhire, and three out of Eftex ; the reft out of any county in Great Britain. Trinity College was founded by Sir Thomas Pope, who was privy counfellor to Queen Mary, and an intimate friend to Sir Thomas More. It confifts of two courts; in the firft court are the chapel, hall, library, and lodgings of the prefident. The chapel, which was built in 1695, is a fine ftru&ure, richly and beautifully finifhed. The fecond court is an elegant pile, erected by Sir Chriftopher Wren. The gardens of this college are extenfive, well laid out, and kept in good order. This college confifts of a prefident, twelve fellows, and twelve fcholars. Thefe, with the other members, gentlemen commoners, commoners, &c. amount to near feventy. Baliol College was founded in 1262, by Sir John Ba- liol of Brenard Caftle in Yorkfhire, father of John Baliol, .;Xing of Scotland, and Devorguilla his confort, daughter of Alexander III. King of Scotland. The college confifts chiefly of one court, which we enter by an handtbme gate with a tower over it. The buildings about this court are antient, except the eaft end. The members of this college are a maftcr, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 255 matter, twelve fellows, fourteen fcholars, and eighteen exhi- bitioners ; the whole number of ftudents amounting to about fifty. St. John's College is fituated north cf Baliol and Trinity colleges, having a terrace, with a row of lofty elms before it. The buildings of this college chiefly confift of two large quadrangles, uniformly and elegantly built. In the firfi court are the chapel and hall on the north fide, and the prefi- dent's lodgings on the eaft. The eaft and weft fides of the fe- cond court are fupported by {lately and beautiful piazzas. In the hall, which is very handfome, is a picture of St. John the Baptift, by Titian. The gardens belonging to this college arc extremely agreeable, very extenuve, and well laid out. The college was founded by Sir Thomas White, Alderman of Lon- don j and the members of it are a prefident, fifty fellows, two chaplains, an organift, five finging-men, fix cborifters, and twofextons; the number of ftudents of all forts being ufuaily about fixty. Worcester College is fituated on an eminence on the banks of the Thames. At entering into the college, we have the chapel and hall on each fide, both of which are twenty-nine feet in breadth, and fifty- five in length ; thefe are juft built. The library, which is furnifhed with a fine collection of books, is a magnificent Ionic edifice, on the weft of the chapel and hall, and is one hundred feet in length, fupported by a fpacious cloifter. According to a plan prcpofed, this college is to confift of a very fpacious and elegant building ; but it is not yet com- pleted. — This was formerly called Glouceftcr college, being a ferninary for educating the novices of Gi >uceiter monaftery. But being fuppreffed at the Reformation, it was converted into a pilace for trie Biftiop of Oxford; but was foon after turned into an academical hall by Sir Thomas White, the founder of St. John's college ; in which ftate it continued, till Sir Thomas Cookes, a Worcefterfhire gentleman, procured for it a charter of incorporation, bv the name of Worcefter college, and en- dowed it with fifteen thoufand pounds, for the maintenance of a provoft and fix fellows. — There are now a provoft, twenty fellows, and eleven fcholars ; and the whole number of ftudents is about forty. Exeter. College was founded by Walter Stapled n, Bunop of Exeter, in the reign of King Edward the Second. The A NEW DISPLAY OF The building confifts chiefly of a handfome quadrangle ; in the center of the front, which is 220 feet in length, there is a beautiful gate of ruftic work, with a handfome tower. This college has a rector, twenty-five fellows, one fcholar who is bible'clerk, and two exhibitioners ; the whole number of mem- bers about eighty. Jesus College was founded by Hugh Price, L. L. D. who began to build, and competently endowed it in 1 571. But Queen Elizabeth is alfo fometimes termed the founder of this college, becaufe fhe granted the charter for it, and alfo timber for erecting it out of two adjoining forefts. The build- ings confift of two courts, in the firft of which is the hall, the chapel, and the principal's lodgings. The library is on the weft fide of the inner court, and the other three fides are finifhed in a decent and uniform manner. This college is chiefly for Welchmen, and confifts of a principal, nineteen fel- lows, and eighteen fcholars, befides a confiderable number of ex- hibitioners. Lincoln College was founded by two of the Bifhopsof Lincoln; one completing what the other left imperfect. It con- fifts of two quadrangular courts, and maintains a rector, fifteen fellows, twelve exhibitioners, and eight fcholars, with a bible- clerk, befides the independent members. Oriel College chiefly confifts of one regular, uniform, well-built quadrangle. On the north fide are the library and the provoft's lodgings ; on the eaft the hall, and the entrance into the chapel, which runs eaftward from thence and on the fouth and weft fides are the chambers of the fellows and other ftu- dents. King Edward II. was the titular founder of this college, but Adam de Brome, his almoner, was the real founder of it : for that prince did little more than grant licence to his almo- ner to build it. King Edward III. gave this fociety a tene- ment called Le Oriel, on which ground the college now ftands, and from whence it derives its name. The prefent members of this college are a provoft, eighteen fellows and fourteen exhibitioners ; the whole number of ftudents of all forts being about eighty. Corpus Christi College was founded by Richard Fox, Bifhopof Winchefter, in 1516 ; and confifts of one qua- drangle, an elegant pile of modern building, in which are pleafant THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 257 pleafant and commodious rooms, and a cloifter adjoining ; and alfo a neat ftructure, which looks eaftward towards Merton college grove, in which are apartments appropriated to gentle- men commoners. Merton College was founded by Walter de Merton, Lord High Chancellor of England in the reign of Henry the Third, and afterwards Bifhop of Rochefter. This college is fituated eaft of Corpus Chrifti, and confifts of three courts* The largeft, or inner court, is about 100 feet long, and 100 broad. The chapel is at the weft end of the firft court, and is likewife the parifh church of St. John Baptift de Merton. It is one of the largeft, and beft proportioned Gothic ftructures in the univerfity. The gardens are very pleafant, having the ad- vantage of a profpe6t of the adjacent walks and country from the fouth terrace. This college maintains a warden, twenty-eight fcholars, fourteen other lcholars upon a different foundation, temied poft- matters, two chaplains, and two clerks ; the whole number of ftudents of all forts being about eighty. Christ-church College is the largeft and moft auguft of all the collges in Oxford. It was firft began to be founded by Cardinal Wolfey, on the fcite of the priory of St. Fridefwide, but his difgrace and death hindered him from compleating it. It was afterwards fettled and endowed by King Henry VII. The front is very ftately, extending to the length of 382 feet, and terminating at each end by two correfponding turiets. In the center is a grand Gothic entrance, the proportions and or- naments of which are remarkably magnificent; over it is a mufical tower, in which are ten mufical bells, and a great bell, and a great bell called Tom, that weighs near 17,000 pounds, and on the found of which, every night at nine o'clock, tha ftudents of the whole univerfity are enjoined by ftatute to repair to their refpeclive focieties. This college confifts of four qua- drangles, one of which, diflinguifhed by the name of the Grand Quadrangle, is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. The greateft part of the fouth fide is formed by the hall, which is confidera- bly elevated above the reft of the building ; and, taken as a de- tached ftrudlure, is a noble fpecimen of antient magnificence.. This room is one of the largeft and moft fuperb of any in the kingdom j it contains eight windows on each fide, is 123 feet in length, 40 feet in breadth, and its cieling is 30 feet high* The church of this college is fituated at the e?.ft end of the Grand Quadrangle, and is the cathedral of the diocefe; it is an antient venerable ftru<£lure ; the roof of the choir is a'beautiful piece of (tone work, and fome of the windows are finely painted. K k Peck- 28 A NEW DISPLAY OF Peck water-court, to the north -eaft of the Grand Quadrangle, is perhaps the moft elegant edifice in the univerfity ; it has three uniform fides, each of which has fifteen windows in front ; and on the fourth fide of this court is a magnificent library. Eaft of Pcckwater court is Canterbury-court, originally Can- terbury col'ege. Jt ;s a fmall court, and chiefly remarkable for its antiquity. The fourth quadrangle is Chaplain's-court, which ftands north-eaft of Canterbury-court. This college maintains a dean, eight canons, one hundred and one ftudents, eight chaplains, eight finging men, and as many chorifters, a Ichool-mafter, an ufher, an organift, and a teacher of mufic. There is a gravel- walk belonging to this college, planted on each fide with elms, which is a quarter of a mile in length, and of a proportu nab'e breadth. In the lower departments of the libra- ry of this college is dep >fued a fine collection of paintings, the donation of General Guife. There is glfo a fine ftatue of Mr. Locke, by Roubilluc. Pembroke College derives its name from the Earl of Pembroke, who was chancellor of the univerfity at the time it was erected. It was founded by Thomas Tifdale, Efq; and Richard Whitwicke, B. D. The building confifts of two courts ; the firft is a fmall quadrangle, but neat and uniform ; the fecond court is an irregular area, and on one fide of it ftands the chapel ; which is an elegant modern edifice of the Ionic order. In the garden, which is weft of the chapel, is a pleafant common room, and a terracs-walk. The prefent members of this college are a matter, fourteen fellows, and thirty fcholars and exhibitioners j the whole number of ftudents being ufually about iixty. Having thus diftinftly defcribed the feveral Colleges of this celebrated univerfity, we now pioceed to the Halls, which are five in number. 1 here were formerly a great number of thefe academical Halls, ox Hotels, where profeliors or tutors refided ; but lince the colleges were founded, they hav.L been reduced to the prefent number. Thefe Halls are now endowed with eftates and revenues as colleges are; yet lome of them have exhibitions, or yearly ftipends given towards the maintenance of certain fjudents therein. 1 he ftudents pay an annual rent ro the prin- cipals, and live at their own charge, as at the inns of court at London. St. Alban Hall adjoins to Merton College on the eaft. It derives its name from Robert Abbot de St. Albans, a citizen of THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 259 of Oxford, who conveyed this tenement to the nuns of Little- more in Oxfordshire, in the reign of King Henry the Third. St. Edmund Hall is oppoiite to theeaft fide of Queen's college, to which it is dependant, and has^about twenty-five ftu- cients. The buildings were completed, and other confiderable improvements made by Dr. Shaw, the late principal. New-Inn Hall ftands at the weft fide of Oxford. Oppo- fite to this Hall is the gateway of a college of monks of the Au- guftine order, in which Erafmus refided two years. He left an elegant Latin poem on his manner of living there. St. Mary Hall isfituated north of Oriel college, near the Hiiih-ftreet of Oxford. It confifrs of one quadrangle, with a garden inclofed in the middle of it. It is formed by the prin- cipal's lodgings on the north, the hall and chapel on the fouth, and on the eaft and weft by the chambers of the ftudents. Magda.len Hall is adjoining to Magdalen college, to which it is an appendaee. 1 he number of exhibitions given to this Hall, fupplies it with many members ; and it has in it a large grammar-fchool as a nurfery to Magdalen college. The fa- mous Lord Clarendon was educated at this Hall. Before we quit Oxford, we fh3ll obferve, that at the north fide of the city is the Radcliffe Infirmary, which was erected by Dr. Radcliffe's truftees, and is fupported by volun- tary contribution. Such an inftitution here has a natural tendency to be productive of very extenfive advantages ; as, while it re- lieves the poor, it fetves as a fchool to ihofe who ftudy the me- dial art. G O D S T O W. This village is about two miles north from Oxford, and here are the ruins of a famous nunnery, which was founded in the reign of King Stephen for Benedi£tine nuns. Fair Rofamond, who was feduced by King Henry II. fpent much of her time with thefe nuns, before her amour with th t Prince, and after- wards ended her days with them. She isfaid to have been the mod beautiful woman of that age, and was the daughter of Lord Clifford, who was a great benefa&or to this nunnery. There is great reafon to believe that King Henry promifed her marriage before he feduced her, though for political reafons he afterwards efpoufed Eleanor of Guinne. He had two fons by Rofamond, but that lady {hook off all connexions with the King, after he brought his Queen to England, and retired toGodltpw nunnery t K k 2 wheie A NEW DISPLAY OF where (he (pent the remainder of her days in penitence. Part of her monument in the church is ftill (landing ; and from the remains of the infcription, it appears that fhe lived to a confi- derable age ; fo that the ftory of her being fecreted in a bower rear Woodftock, and poifoned by Queen Eleanor, feems to have been a mere fable. WOODSTOCK. This is a town of great antiquity in Oxfordfliire, fixty three miles from London. It is pleafantly fituated,and a town-houfe has been lately built here j and the place is noted for its manu- factory of fine wafh leather gloves, and polifhed fteel watch chains, which are efteemed all over Europe for the goodnefs of the workmanfhip. This is a corporation governed by the may- or, a recorder, four aldermen, and fixteen common council- men. It being on a great road, contains fome very good inns ; and there are here three alms-houfes, and a fchool, which was founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by Richard Cromwell, citizen and fkinner of London. This town fends two members to parliament, who are elected by the burgefles and freemen. There is a houfe in this town which is faid to have been the birth-place of our celebrated Poet Chaucer ; but this feems to be an erroneous tradition, as there is the greateft reafon to be-» lieve that he was born in London. BLENHEIM HO USE Is the magnificent feat of the Duke of Marlborough, and is one of the moft ftately edifices in the kingdom. It is fituated a little to the weft of Woodftock, about four miles and a half from Oxford. In the reign of Queen Anne, the honour and manor of the town and hundred of Woodftock, were fettled by parliament upon that illuftrious General, John Duke of Marl- borough, as a reward for his fignal military Cervices. A palace was alfo built for him at the public, expence, and which, to commemorate the important victory he had obtained at Blen- heim over the French and Bavarian forces, was called Blen- heim House. It was built by Sir John Vanburgh, and is ex- tremely magnificent, though many objections have been made to it by the connoifleurs in architecture. From the town of Woodftock we enter the park, through a fpacious portal of the Corinthian order ; from whence a noble profpect is opened to the palace, the bridge, the lake with its valley, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 261 valley, and other beautiful fcenes of the park. The houfe in particular, which we furvey from this point obliquely, is no where viewed to greater advantage. The front is 1 38 feet from wing to wing : the roof is adorned with a ftone baluftrade, and ftatues. The fouth front is not fo highly ornamented; but on the pediment of it is a noble bufto, larger than life, of Lewis XIV". taken from the citadel of Tournay. The common en- trance is at the eaft gate, which leads us into a-quadrangle, con- firming of offices. From thence, oppolite the entrance, we pro- ceed into the grand area. In the centre of the front, a fuperb portico, elevated on mafly columns, admits us to the Hall; which is the height of the houfe, fupported by Corinthian pillars. It is one of the largeft and fineft rooms in England. The cieling is adorned with an allegorical piece, painted by Sir James Thornhill, reprefenting the Duke of Marlborough crowned with Viclory, who points to the plan of the battle of Blenheim. In the recelTes, are well- fini/hed caftsfrom the antique ftatues of the Venus of Medicis, the Roman Slave, the Atautce^ and Saltator. Over thefe is a feries of paintings, called the Loves of God, which are afcri- bed to Titian, and which were a prefent to the Duke from the King of Sardinia, in the arcades on the right and left, is a fine arrangement of marble termini. And over the [door that leads into the faloon, is a buft of the great Duke of Marlborough, with a Latin infcription. Strangers are ufually conducted from the Hall into the apart- ments on the left ; and in the firji apartment, the hangings begin a fuit of tapeftry, reprefenting the victories and atchievements of Alexander the Great, which are continued in fome fucceeding rooms. There ate alfo in this room paintings of St. Auftin when young, and of Pope Gregory, both by Titian, of the woman taken in adultery by Rembrandt, and of Mary of Medi- cis by Rubens. In ihefecond apartment are fome pieces of beautiful tapeftry, the fubje&s taken from claffical allegory : there are alfo fome fine paintings ,in this room, one of which is a Holy Family by Rubens. In the third apartment is a picture of Rubens's family, painted by himfelf; portraits of the Duchefs of Portfmouth, and Eleanor Gwyn, miftrefles to Charles II. by Vandyke j and alfo Lord Stafford dictating to his Secretary, by the fame. This raft is perhaps one of Vandyke's principal portrait pieces. The ear- neftnefs of the fpeaker, and the atteation of his amanuenfis, heighten each .other in the moft expreflive manner. In 262 A NEW DISPLAY OF In the fourth apartment, is a portrait of Rubens's wife, by Rubens ; of Catharine of Medicis, by the fame ; and of Mary Queen of Scots, by Vandyke. In the fifth apartment, are four fculpture pieces, a head, and an unfinimed piece, all by Rubens; two Madonnas, in different attitudes, by Titian; Herod's cruelty, and Queen Efther, by Paul Veronefe ; and fome other pieces by capital mafters. In the ftxth apartment begins the tapeftry of the Duke of Marlborough's battles, which are introduced by a mod lively rep^efen ration of a futtling booth, foragers, a battle, and a iiege. Here are alfo three good paintings, one of which is a picture of Dobfon, an Englifh Painter, in the reign of King James I. witn his family, by himfelf. This la ft is an admirable piece, in the old correct manner. In the feventh apartment, the tapeftry reprefents the battles of Wynendale, Bouchain, and Oudenard, with the fiege of Donawert. Here are alfo three fine pictures, one of which is Jupiter and Europa. by Paul ' Veronefe. The eighth apartment contains the three Graces cloathed ; Venus and Adonis, and two other pieces by Rubens; the Egyptian fortune-teller, by Angelo Carravaggio, and fome other pictures of great merit. The Saloon is nobly decorated, and is proportioned to the grandeur of the other rooms. The door-cafes are of marble, and exceedingly magnificent ; the floor is alfo of marble. The walls are adorned with paintings of the different habits, and modes of drefs of all nations, by La Guerre. The cieling, which is executed by the fame hand, is an allegorical piece, re- prefenting John Duke of Marlborough in the midftof his vic- tories ftopt by Peace, and Time reminding him of the rapidity of his own flight. In the ninth apartment, the tapeftry of the Duke's battles is continued, with the battles of Blenheim, Malplaquet, and the liege of Lifle. In the tenth apartment, the tapeftry contains the conclufion of the Duke's battles ; with a pidture of Jfaac blef- fing Jacob, by Rembrandt ; a portrait of John Duke of Marl- borough, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; and a fruit-piece, by M ichael Angelo. The eleventh apartment contains two pieces of ftill- life^y Maltcfe; and a portrait of the Duchefs of Marlborough, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. The Library is a moft noble room, upwards of 183 feet in length, and proportionably broad and lofty. The Doric pilafters of marble, with the complete columns of the fame, which fupport a rich entablature, the window-frames, the fur- rounding bafement of black marble, and the ftuccoed compart- ments THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 263 ments of the vaulted deling, are in very high tafte both with refpetl: to defign and finifhing. It was originally intended as a gallery for paintings ; but the late Duke of Marlborough has added utility to elegance, having furnifhed it with a noble col- lection of books, made by Lord Sunderland, his grace's father. Their number is faid to amount to 24,000 volumes, which have been allowed to be worth 30,0001 and are faid to be the beft private colie&ion in England. They are kept under gilt- wire lattices. On the top of the cafes is a feries of bronzes; and that no afiiftance to learning might be wanting, the late Duke placed here a fine Orrery and Planetarium. At the upper end of the room is a highly finifhed ftatue of Queen Anne, by Ryfbrack ; and over the bo>k-cafes are copies of the Cartoons, by Le Blond ; Lot and his daughters, by Rubens ; and a Crucifixion by Vandyke, with other paintings. From the bow-windows of the library we have a delightful pro- fpect of the declivity defcending to the river, and of the gradual afcent of the venerable groves which cover the correfponding hills. The Chapel is one of the wings of this (lately building, in which is a fuperb monument to the memory of the old Duke and Dutchefs of Marlborough, by Ryfbrack. They are re- prefented with their two fons, who died young, as fupported by Fame and Hiftory. Beneath in a baffo relievo, is the taking of Marfhal Tallard. Tiie Gardens are fpacious and agreeable ; they originally con- fifted of about 100 acres, but the prefent Duke has made very large additions, and many elegant improvements. The noble defcent to the water on the fouth and weft, covered with flow- ering fhrubs, and embellifhed with other natural beauties, are not eafy to be paralleled. About the middle of the grand ap- proach, is a magnificent Bridge, coniifting chiefly of one arch, in the ftyle of theRialto at Venice. The water is formed into a fpacious Lake, which covers the whole extent of a capacious valley, furrounded by an artificial declivity of a prodigious depth, and has been confidered, both with regard to its accompani- ments and extent, as the moil capital piece of water in the kingdom. The Park is between ten and eleven miles in circumference, and contains many beautiful fecnes. The lover of rural variety will be entertained here with every circurnftance of beauty, which he can expedt from divernfitd nature; from hiils anu 1 valiies, wood, and water. In this park originally flood a royal palace, and here Ethelred called a parliament. King Al fie J, 264 A NEW DISPLAY OF Alfred, while he was refident here, tranflated Boetlm de Confix latione Philofophia. Henry I. enclofed the park with a wall, the greateft part of which is now remaining. His fucceflbr y Henry II. principally refided at this feat, and is faid to have erec- ted in the park a houfe, encompaffed with a Labyrinth of ex- traordinary contrivance. We have before obferved, that the ftory of Pair Rofamond's being fecreted here, with a view of fecuring her from the rage and jealoufy of Queen Eleanor, is a tradition not well founded ; but it is not improbable, that while the amour between this Ladyand that Prince fubfifted, {he might refide here. For it is faid that the romantic retreat, which was called Fair Rofamond's Bower, was fituated here in the valley, to the north-weft of the Bridge, near a remarkable bath, or fpring, called at prefent Rofamond's Well. The grant of the park and manor of Woodftock, and of this palace, to the Duke of Marlborough, and his important fervices to the nation, are enumerated on the pedeltal of a irately column, 1 30 feet in height, on the top of which is a ftatue of the Duke. This column is fituated in the grand avenue to Blenheim-Houfe, and part of the infeription, which is admirably well written, is as follows: The Caftle of BLENHEIM was founded by Q. Anne, In the fourth Year of her Reign, In the Year of the Chriftian /Era 1705. A Monument defigned to perpetuate the Memory of the Signal Victory Obtained over the French and Bavarians, Near the Village of BLENHEIM, On the Banks of the Danube, By JOHN, Duke of MARLBOROUGH, The Hero, not only of his Nation, but of his Age j Whofe Glory was equal in the Council and in the Field; Who by Wifdom, Juftice, Candour, and Addrefs, Reconciled various, and even oppofite, Interefts j Acquired an Influence Which no Rank, no Authority can give, Nor any Force, but that of fuperior Virtue : Became the fixed important Centre, Which united in one common caufe, The principal States of Europe ; Who by military Knowledge, and irrefillible Valour, In a long Series of uninterrupted Triumphs, Broks the Power of Fiance, When THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 265 "VV hen raited tbe higheft, when exerted the moft ; Refcued the Empire from Defolation ; Afferted and confirmed the Liberties of EUROPE, Blenheim Houfe itfelf was finifhed at the public expence, but the Bridge, the Column juft mentioned, and the portal conti u- bus to the town, were eredled at the expehee of Sarah* Dutchefs Dowager of Marlborough. D I T C H L E Y, Is the noble feat of the Earl of Litchfield; fituated about four miles from Blenheim, on the north-weft. It is a lofty edifice; built of hewn ftone, fituated on a hill, which commands all the Country, having Blenheim, Oxford, and the hills beyond it, in full view. The fouthern front is very elegant; and the offices, which form two beautiful wings, have a communication with the principal building by circular colonnades. The Hall is elegantly decorated, and finely proportidner'. The cieling contains an alTembly of the Gods, painted by Ken . Two of the Compartments are filled with hiftorical pieces from the iEneid, by the fame hand j one of which reprefents iEneas meeting Venus, his mother, in the wood, near Carthage; and the other, Venus prefenting /Eneas with the new armour. The fciences are introduced as ornaments, with bufts of the poets properly difpofed ; and a ftatue of the Venus de Medicis. The chimney-piece is fuperb and lofty, decorated with a portrait of the late Earl of Litchfield, by Akerman. The conftrucTtidn of the Mufick Room is well adapted to the life for which it is intended ; and its elegance cannot fail to have the moft pleafiug effect: on the fpedtator. There is a painting in this room of Rubens and His family hunting wild beafts ; and fome other good pictures. The Dining Room is executed with much fimple elegance j and here are the capital portraits of Henry VIII. and Prince Henry, by Hans Holbein, executed with much ftrerigth and freedom. There are alfo fome other good pictures here, particularly a family-piece of Charles I. with Charles II. at his knee, by Vandyke j and two fine portraits by Jonfon. The Damajk Bed-Chamber is adorned with tapeftry, repre* fenting boys fqueezing grapes, and engaged in other fpoi ts j and contains fome fine portraits. The Tapejlry Drawing- Room is alfo adorned with tapeftry, reprefenting the Mufes and Apollo, a vintage, and Bacchanalian fcenesj and there are alfo fome good portraits here. From this apartment we have an enter- taining view of a winding valley, with a ferpentine canal, over Vol, h L 1 wluc.i aC6 A NEW DISPLAY OF which is thrown an elegant Bridge from a defign of PJIadio's. The cieling and walls of the Saloon are richly ftuccoed ; and in the middle compartment of the roof is a reprefentation of Flora and the Zephyrs. Here is alfo an excellent antique of the Goddefs Health, about thirty inches in height, purchafed from Dr. Mead's collection. On its pedeftal is a bafs-relief of the head of iEfculapius, cut with remarkable boldnefs. In the Green Darnafk Drawing Room, the chimney-piece is finely executed by Scbeemaker, and finifbed with two fmall Co- rimhian columns. In the middle, is a landfcape, by Wootton. Over the doors, are two {hiking pictures brought from Italy, of ruins, rock?, and cafcades. Here is alfo a table of Italian mar- ble, having a greenifh ground interfperfed with white veins. In the Gilt Drawing- Room is a full-length portrait of Charles II. and the Dutchefs of Cleveland, by Lely ; with two other portraits by Kneller, and two curious tables of Egyptian marble. In the Velvet Bed chamber both the bed and hangings are of rich figured Genoa velvet. The chimney-piece is ele- gantly finiihed by Scheemaker, and adorned with a profpedi of a ruin by Paul Panini. The Tapcjlry-Room is curioufly ornamented in the Chinefe taffe. Here are two pieces of tapefhy, one of which reprefents the Cyclops forging the armour of /Eneas; the other, Neptune, with his proper attendants, giving directions about re-fitting a vefTel, which has juft been (hip-wrecked. Over the chimney- piece, which is finely finifhed in white marble, is a capital pic- ture of the Duke and Dutchefs of York, and the Princefies Mary and Anne, by Sir Peter Lely ; and over the doors are two mafterly landscapes, by an Italian hand. On the whole, this feat is a repofitory of valuable portraits, executed by the moft eminent artiits in that fpecies of painting; Rubens, Vandyke, Sir Peter Lely, and our ingenious country- man and rival of Vandyke, Jonfon. As a piece of architecture, this feat is inferior to none for thejuftnefs of its proportions, and the convenient difpohtion of its apartments. With regard to its furniture and decorations, it is finifhed with talte rather than with fplendour ; and adorned with that elegance which refults from fimplicity, WHITNEY Is a town in Cxforcfhire of great antiquity, fixty-nine miles from London. It appears to have been a p ice of confideiable repute befoie the time of William I. and ii creafed in the num- ber of inhabitants fo much afterwards, that it received f'unnnon- ies THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLANJX 267 fes to fend members to parliament in the reign of Edward I. but that privilege has been long fmce taken away. The town chiefly confifts of one (heel, about a mile in length ; and has a great manufacture of rugs and blankets, and the latter are for their whitenefs preferred to thofe made at any other place. It is computed, that feven thoufand packs of wool are wrought into blankets here every year; and befides five hund red weavers, there are feldom fewei than three thoufand perfons employed in carding and fpinning, with many others who drefs the goods afterwards. The town is populous Here is a free-fcbool, which was founded and endowed by Mr. Henry Box, a drusqift in London, with a good library adjoining : the grocers company in London are governors of this fchool. There is a! r o a ch irii v- fchool here for fifty children, and an hofpital For fix poor blanket - rnakers widows. Bur ford is an antient market-town, in the fame county, and eighteen miles from Oxford. It has a great market' for faci- ei les ; and on a heath near it, called the Seven Downs, there are frequent horfe-races. CHIPPING NORTON Is a place of great antiquity, and appears to have been ^ maiket-town in the time of the Saxons. Roman coins have been frequently found here ; and the church is a building after a curious model, in which there are monuments, with fo many names of merchants on brafs plates, as fhew it to have been once a place of great trade. This town is pleafantly fituatei), and formerly fent members to parliament, but that privilege is now taken away. In the neighbourhood of this town are what are called Roll- rick* s JloneS) or Roul-rich Jlones, which fome fuppofe to be the remains of an old Britifh temple, whilft others imagine they were fet up in memory of Rollo, the famous Danifh Commader. They are very lofty, and placed in a circular direction, with one taller than the other, which is vulgarly called the King. At a little diftance from Chipping Norton is a village named Hook-Norton, which is faid to have been an antient feat of the Saxon kings. About the beginning of the tenth century there was a great battle fought here between the Danes and the Eng- Jifti, in which the latter were defeated ; and there are here fe- veral barrows, or fepulchral monuments of the antient Britons. Camden fays, this place was formerly inhabited by fuch clowns L 1 2 and a68 ANEW DISPLAY OF and churls, that it was from that circumftance called Hog's- Norton, a name which is now frequently given to it. BANBURY It a town of great antiquity, and pleafantly fituated on ths river Cherwell. It is feventy four-miles from London, and twenty-three from Oxford. It is a pretty large town, with a bandfome church, a meeting hoqfe, a free-fchool, and two, charity- fchools. The trade of this town is* considerable ; and great quantities of cheefe are made here, which is noted for its goodnefs. This place has alfo been famous for a particular kind of cakes, called Banbury cakes. The lands in the neighbour- hood are remarkable for their fertility. Several remarkable bat r ties have been fought near this place, and at a little diftance from hence is an ancient caftle called Broughton- caftle, built before the reign of King Henry the Sixth. Hanwell-Park, near Banbury, is the feat of Sir Jona- than Cope, Bart. There is here a clock which is efteemed a great curiofity. It moves by water, and (hews the time by the fifing of a new gilded fun for every hour, moving in a hemif- phere of wood, each fun having in its center a figure for the hour. For inftance, One, which, afcending half way to the zenith of the arch, (hews it to be a quarter paft One, at the zenith half an hour; whence defcending half way towards the horizon, three quarters ; and at laft abfconding under it, there fj-rifes another gilded fun above the horizon at the other fide of the arch bearing the figure 2 j and fo of the reft. Deddington is a place of great antiquity, and fent mem- bers to parliament in the reigns of Edward I. and III. but never fmce. The town is lmall, though it is pretty populous. Bicester is thirteen miles from Oxford, and is a long {hag- gling town, chiefly remarkable for excellent malt liquor. — Near this town is an old caftle, called Alchefter, which is fituated on the Roman highway, called Akernan-Jlreet. That this was a place of great ftrength, and even a flouriftiing city, is fuppofed to be evident from the vaft number of coins that have been dug up, and becaufe it is no uncommon thing for the hufbandmen to break their ploughs againft the ruins of the foundation. Thame, or Tame, is fo called from the river of that name, which runs by the town. It is forty-fix miles from London, and th,g fituation is extremely pleafant ; and being on an emi- nence, the profpe£t over the neighbouring country is delightful. It is a large town, with a fine church, and one great ftreet, in middle whereof is tfte market-place, which is well furnifhed. THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 269 with live cattle, and all kinds of provifions, and the river is na- vigable to it by barges. It has an handfome free-fchool, and an alms-houfe. Dorchester, which is forty nine miles from London, was a town of note among the Romans, and afterwards a bimop's fee ; but it is now an inconfiderable place. It has, however, a very large old church, and a good ftone bridge over the Thames. HENLEY upon THAMES. This is fuppofed to be the oldeft town in Oxfordfhire, and is pleafantly fituated. on the fide of the Thames, which is naviga- ble to it by barges. It is a corporation governed by a warden, burgeiTes, and other officers. The buildings are generally good ; and here are two free-fchools, one a grammar-fchool, founded and endowed by King James the Firft, and the other called the Blue-coat fchool, founded by the Lady Elizabeth Periam, for teaching and cloathing poor children. Here is alfo an alms- houfe, founded by Dr. Longland, Bifhop of Lincoln ; and a wooden bridge over the Thames, where, it is laid, there was ?intiently one of ftone. The greater part of the inhabitants of this town are maltfters, mealmen, and bargemen, who enrich themfeves and the neighbourhood, by fending corn, malt, and wood to London ; and it is faid that 300 cart -loads of malt and corn are often fold here on a market-day. GREAT MAR LOW Ts a borough-town in Buckinghamfhirej thirty-one miles from London, which derives its name from the marly foil in which it {lands. It is a confiderable town, with a bridge over the Thames, not far from the place where it receives the Wycombe river j and has an handfome church and town hall. The chief manufacture of the town is bone-lace, but it is of more account for the navigation carried on by the Thames for meal, malt, and beech timber. There are feveral com and p^per-mill? jn its neighbourhood, particularly on the little river Loddon ; and alfo three remarkable mills called the Temple Mills, or the brafs mills for making kettles, pans, &c. befides a mill for making thimbles j and another for prelTmg oil from rape and flax feed. 2 HIGH 270 A NEW DISPLAY OF HIGH W I C C O M B. This town is thirty-two miles from London, in the road to Oxford. It is fuppofed to derive its name from a fmall ftream, which glides through the low grounds near this place into the Thames. The town has on each fide of it pleafant hills fhaded with woods, and may for antiquity, extent, and beauty, com- pare with the greateft and beft in the county. It is a corporation, governed by a mayor, aldermen, common-council, recorder, and other officers. It has two principal ftreets, one of which is fpacious, and well-built with good brick houfes, and full of large inns. Queen Elizabeth gave lands for the maintenance of a free grarnmar-fchool in this town. The affixes are fometimes held here, and this town fends two members to parliament. This place is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation ; for in the year 1724, a Roman pavement was difcovered by fome workmen, who were digging in a neighbouring meadow be- longing to Lord Shelbume. It was about nine feet fquare, and confifted of ftones of various colours, wrought with exquiftte art ; but the largeft was not broader than the fquare of a die. Beaconsfield is another market-town in the road to Ox- ford, and contains fome good inns, but has nothing in it that is very remarkable. Amersham is an antient borough town, fituated in a val- ley between two woody hills, near the river Coin. It confifts of two ftreets, a long one and a (hort one, which crofs each other at right angles in the middle. In the area where thefe ftreets interfedt each other, ftands the church, which is the beft re&ory in the county. Here is a handfome town- hall and a free- fchool. Monk's Risborough is only remarkable for the antiquities in its neighbourhood ; particularly an old fortification, called Bellinus's caftle ; and fome trenches and fortifications fuppofed to have been made when the Romans were in Britain. And not far from Monk's Rifborough, there is a high iteep chalky hill, on the fouth-weft fide of which there is the figure of a crofs, an hundred feet long, formed by trenches cut into the chalk about two feet deep, which is fuppofed to be the work of the Saxons. — Near Monk's Rifborough is Prince's Ri/borougb, where on the top of a hill are the traces of a camp ; and it is faid that thirteen counties may be feen from hence. AYLES- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 271 AYLESBURY. This is a very ancient town, forty-four miles from London, and ftands on a rifing ground, at the eaft end of a rich valley, called AylejburyVale^ which feeds incredible numbers of cattle and fheep, remarkable for their fize and fine Pieces ; and ex- tends almoft from Thame on the edge of Oxfordshire, to Leigh- ton in Bedfordftiire. The town-hall of Aylefbury is an hand*- fome fabric, in which the county affizes and feilions are often held, and ftands in the middle of the market-place, which is a large handfome fquare. This is a neat, compact, and populous town, the beft and largeft in Buckinghamfhire, and conlifts of feveral fine ftreets. It fends two members to parliament. In the reign of William the Norman, Aylefbury was a royal manor, feveral parts of which that King gave to his favourites* to hold of him by the following odd tenure ; namely, that they fhould find litter or ftraw for the King's bed and chambers, and provide him three eels in winter, and three green geefe in ium«- mer, befides herbs for his chamber ; and this they were to do thrice a year, if the King came thither fo often. Some of the principal public edices in this town were erected at the expence of Sir John Baldwin, Lord Chief Juftice of the Court of Common Pleas in the reign of Henry VIII. He was otherwife a great benefactor to this town, and had a caufeway made from the market-place towards London for the diftance of three miles, at his own coft. BUCKINGHAM. This is the county town, and is fixty miles from London. It is warned on all fides but the north, by the river Oufe, over which it has three ftone bridges. The caftle of the town, now in ruins, was built in the middle of it, and divides it into two parts. In the north part ftands the town hall, a very handfome convenient ftructure, in which are kept the weights and mea- fures of the county. This town was for many ye-rs a ftapJe for wool, and feveral of its wool-halls are yet ftamtiftgj but that trade is now loft here. It is very populous ; and the church, which is in the weft part of the town, is a very large building, and, when its fpire was (landing, might be reckoned ihs beft in the whole county, and was as high as moft in England ; but in 1698 was in part blown down, and has never iinte been re- built. In the year 1725, many of the old buddies in this town were deftroyed by fire, which burnt out 138 families, and dil near 33,000 pounds damage. The county -»avl was kept n th * earth 2 7 » A NEW DISPLAY OF caftle here, till it fell to decay j but a new one has been built; and by a late act the Cummer aflizes, which had been fometimes held Aylefbury, are always to be held here. This town fends two members to parliament. S T O W$ The celebrated feat of Earl Temple, is about two mile* north-weft from Buckingham, well fituated in a fine fpot, which is much more beautiful -than any of the furrounding country. The houfe is large ; it extends in one line of front in nine hun- dred feet. A grand flight of itep<, defigned by Signior Borra^ ornamented with balullrades, leads us to the Saloon, which is a "rand apartment hung with tapeftry, reprefenting the fundions of the cavalry. The dimenfions of this room are 43 feet by 22 ; the furniture is crimfon, ornamented with two marble bufts, a rich cabinet* and fine china jars. The Hall is a fpacious room, 36 feet by 22 and half, defigned and painted by Kent* Its deling is enriched with the figns of the Zodiac, and the walls are adorned with feftoons of flowers, he. Over the chimney is a curious piece of alto relievo, the llory of which is Darius's tent. Here are alfo eleven marble butts properly difpofed. The Dining Room is a well-proportioned apartment, 43 feet by 25* in which arefome fine paintings, particularly a dancing at the Duke of Mantua's marriage, by Tintoret, a landfcapeby Claude Lorraine, the marriage at Cana by Baflan, and MofeS burying the Egyptian by Pouflin. There are alfo in this roorri • three pieces of ftatuary that deferve attention ; a Narciflufi, whofe attitude is eafy, and the figure elegant ; Vertumnus and Pomona, by Scheemacher; and a Venus and Adonis by Del- veau. The Venus is very delicate and beautiful. The Grand Stair Cafe is ornamented with iron work, and enriched with three cieling pieces, painted by Sclater j namely, Juftice and Peace, Fame and Victory, Plenty and Con- iiancy. . The Chapel is wainfeotted with cedar, and has a gallery of the fame, hung with crimfon velvet. Its dimenfions are 37 feet by 20 feet 10 inches, and 26 feet high. Over the communion table is a fine painting of the refurre&ion, by Tintoret ; and over that is the King's arms, richly carved and ornamented. Above the cedar wainfcot, are the following paintings at full length, viz. Mdfes and Aron, St. Peter arid St. Paul, the four Evangelifts, the afeenfion, baptifm, and the falutation of the Virgin Mary. The cieling is the fame as in the chapel royal THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 273 at St. James's, and the cedar wainfcot enriched with e'ejant carving, by Gibbons. In Lady Temple's Drejjing room, the hangings, chairs, and Window curtains, are of fine printed cotton ; and there is here a fine oid japan cabinet, ornamented with china jars ; and a fine view of Pekin over the chimney-piece, by lolli In her ladyfhip's Bed-chamber, the hangings, chairs, &c. are the fame as the Dreffing-room ; with a picture of a Chinefe Temple over the chimney, by lolli. The Chinefe Clofet is the repofitory of her ladyfhip's valuable china. The japan and ornaments were a prefent from the late Prince and Princefs of Wales. From hence we enter a colonnade adorned with paintings by Sclater. It is embellilhed with exotics and flowering fhrubs. The Qrenville Room is 29 feet 8 inches by 26 feet 3 inches, and 19 feet 4 inches high, is hung with green velvet, and ornamented with portraits at full length of the Grenville family. The Gallery is a magnificent apartment, 74 feet by 25 feet j and 20 feet high, with gobelin tapeftry chairs, and is hung with three fine pieces of tapeftry, viz. a beautiful reprefentation of a Farm, A Dutch Wake from Teniers, and a Dutch Fifhery, from the fame. The two chimnies have pictures of Roman ruins over each, by Pannini. The four doors have rural pictures over each, viz. Plowing, Reaping, Hay-making, and Sheep ihearing. And a rich cabinet at each end containing books; and 10 marble bufts of Roman Emperors. In the Waiting- Room are fome fine pictures, particularly Cy- mon and Iphigenia, by Guerchino ; gold pouring into the mouth of CrafTus, by Pouffin ; and a very curious piece by Albert Du- rer, thefubjedvt Joan oi Arcmufingon her expedition. In the private Drawing- Room is a fine picture of Samfon, by Rembrandt, the expieflion of which is very great ; a landfcape by Claude Loraine ; Rubens's fiift wife, by Rubens ; Sileno, by the fame \ the Duke of Sully, by Vandyke; Samfon and Dali- lah, by Guerchino; and a portrait of Oliver Cromwell, by Old Richard fon. The State Gallery is feventy feet long, and twenty two high, and is a very beautiful room. It is hung with Biuffels tapeftry, reprefenting the triumphs of Diana, Mars, Venus, Bacchus, and Ceres. The cieling is ftuccoed in compartments, and or- namented with medallions, and paintings in obfeura. The State Bed-chamber is extremely magnificent, the bed and cieling by Signor Borra ; and is finely furnifhed with crimfon damafk and gold ornaments. The State Clofet is hung with blue damafk, finely ornamented with carving and gilding ; out of Which we go into a colonnade, where is a beautiful view of M m t h e 274 A NEW DISPLAY OF the gardens and the country. The pafTage is ornamented with marble bufts. The Gardens at Stow have long been confidered as the- ' moft magnificent in England, and have always been admired by perfons of tafte ; and have therefore a natural claim to a particu- lar defcription in our work. The fouthern entrance of the gardens is formed by two pavilions of the Doric order, defigned by Sir John Vanbrugh ; the walls of which are adorned with paintings, in frefco, the ftories taken from Paftor Fido. Almoft the firft linking object that occurs in the gardens, is, an obelifk near feventy feet high, defigned for a jet de eau, and placed in the middle of a large oc-tagon piece of water. At fome diftance we perceive two rivers, which are at laft united, and enter the ©flagon in one ftream. Over one of thefe is a Palladian bridge. From this point a Gothic Temple, 70 feet in height, appears on the top of an hill. On the left is an Egyptian pyramid ; from whence we are conducted to the Cold Bath. Here we have a profpeft of a natuial cafcade, falling from the laft-mentioned octagon, in three diftinct meets, into an extenfive lake. One of the fheets pafles through the arch of an artificial ruin, co- vered with ever-greens. Thefe noble gardens contain a great variety of elegant edifices and decorations. The building called the Hermitage is built of rough ftone, and agreeably fituated in a rifing wood on the banks of the lake; not far from which are the ftatues of Cain and Abel, finely executed. The Temple of Venus is a fquare build- ing, with colonnade wings. It was deiigned by Kent, and is painted with the flory of Hellenore and Malbecco, from Spen- fer's Fairy Queen. The room is adorned with a naked Venus ; and the fmaller compartments with a variety of intrigues. Upon the frize is the following motto from Catullus: Nunc amei qui nmquam amaroit j £)uique amavet, nunc arnet. Let him love now, who never lov'd before : Let him, who always lov'd, now love the more. Underneath the Belvidere, or Gibbes's Building, is an ice- houfe; at fome diftance from which are the Roman boxers, ad- mirably copied. Here are alfo two Pavilions, one of which is ufed as a dwelling houfe ; and the other is ornamented with the ftatues of Julius Caefar, Cicero, Portia, and Levia. The Egyptian Pyramid, which was before-mentioned, and which is fixty feet in height, has a Latin infeription to the fol- lowing purpofe : " To the memory of Sir John Vanbrugh, by 2 whom THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 275 rket. — About four miles from Ivingo is thepleafant village of Ajhbridge, which is delightfully fituated. The Duke of Bridge- water has a fine houfe and gardens here, with parks well ftored W th all forts of game. Vaft numbers of cattle are fed in the neighbourhood of Aftibridge, particularly fheep, whofe fleeces are equal, if not fuperior, to any other in England. T R I N G. This is a market town in Hertford/hire, thirty-one miles from London, fituated at the weffern extremity of the county, where it joins with BuckinghamQiire. It is a place of confiderable antiquity, as appears from Doomfday book, wherein it is men- tioned as a royal demefne, and as fuch it was given by William the Norman to his favourite, Robert Earl of Ewe. The town, though fmall, is extremely neat, with fome very handfome houfes in it ; and the church is a venerable Gothic ftru&ure, the infide of which has been neatly wainfcotted, at the expence of Mr. Gore. This gentleman, who is lord of the manor, has enclofed a park, near the town, containing three hundred acres of land, and in it is a fine plantation of trees, refembling a wood. Here is a charity-fchool for teaching and cloathing twenty boys* fupported by fubfcription. At a village called Little Tring, in this parifh, rifes one of the heads of the river Thames. Tring is a confiderable market for corn, of which there are here very large granaries. In 1751. John Ofborne, and bis wife Ruth, both poor aged people, were dragged to a deep pond near this town, and there ducked, by a large mob affembled for that purpofe, who had ig- !»< rantly fuppofed that this couple were a witch and wizzard. They (tripped them both naked, tied their thumbs and great toes together, and in that manner threw them three different times into the pond ; but the poor woman who was feventy years of age, died in the water. They then took John Ofborne to a neighbouring houfe, where they laid him in a bed, and the body of his murdered wife befide him, after which they difperfed to the ir own homes. But Thomas Colley, the ringleader of the mob, was afterwards apprehended, and tried for murder at Hertford. He was found guilty, and executed at Tring, his body being hung in chains. BERK- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 283 B E R K H A M S T E D. This town, which is twenty-feven miles from London, was anciently a Roman town, and Roman coins have ofcen been dtfg up here. Some of the Saxon kings kept their courts, and held their great councils at this place. William the Norman fwore here to the Englifh nobility, that he would piefcrve the laws made by his predeceffbrs. Robert de Morton, Earl of Corn- wail, built a caftleon the north fide of this town, the remains of which are converted into a gentleman's feat. King Henry II. kept his court here, and granted the town feveral privileges, particularly that its merchandize mould pais free of toll and cuftom through England, Normandy, Acqui- tain, and Anjou, and that no judicial procefs mould be executed by any of the King's officers, within its liberties, but only by its own high fteward, coroner, and bailiffs ; that no market Ihould be kept within feven miles of it, and that the inhabitants (hould not be obliged to attend at any affixes or feffions. In the reign of Henry the Third, it was a borough, and in the fourteenth of King Edward the Third fent members to parliament. There are no lefs than fifty three townlhips belonging to the manor, which derives its name from the town, which are obliged to pay homage, and chufe conftables here. Of thefe townlhips there are eleven in this county, fifteen in Buckinghamfhire, and twenty-feven in Northamptonfhire. King James the Firft, to whole children this place was a nurfery, made it a corporation, by the name of bailiff and burgefles of Berkhamftead Sc. Peter ; the burgefles to be twelve, to chufe a recorder and town clerk, and to have a prifon : but the corp oration was Co impovenfhed by the civil wars, in the next reign, that the government drop- ped, and has not fince been renewed. The fituation of Berkhamfted is extremely pleafant, being built on the fide of a hill, chiefly confirming of a good ftreet of Confiderable length. The church is a fpacious Gothic edifice, dedicated to St. Peter, affirha& many chapels and oratories, where mafs ufed to be faid in the times of Popery. On the pillars of the church are eleveu of the apofiles, and over each of them a fentence of the creed ; abd on the twelfth pillar is St. George kil- ling the dragon. Here i\ an alms-houfe built by Mr. John Say e and his wife, who endowed it with 1300I. for the maintenance of fix poor widows. Hiire is alfo a charity fchool, and a free- grammar-fchool ; the grammar fchool is a handfome brick ftruc- ture, and is well endowed, the King being patron, and the war- den of All Souls college in Oxford, vifitor. N n 2 HE M 2 84 A NEW DISPLAY OF HEMP S TED Is four miles from Berkhamfted, and twenty three from Lon- don. It was incorporated by King Henry VIII. It is governed by a bailiff, and the inhabitants are empowered to have a com-*- mon feal, and a pye powder court, during its market and fairs. It is pleafantly fituaied on a fmall river, called the Gade, and furrounded with hills. The church, which (lands at a little dif- tance from the the town, is an ancient gothic ftruclure, with a fquare tower, and a fine fpire. The market here is the greateft inHertfordfhire for wheat; and 20,oool. is faid to be often re- turned weekly for meal. There are eleven mills Hand within four miles of the place, which bring a great trade to it. About four miles from Hempfted is King's Langley, which is a large and pleafant village, where King Edward III. built a fine palace, wherein he often refided, of which fome part (till remains. And here his fifth fon Edmund, commonly called De Langley, was born ; and this prince, with his wife Ifabel, daughter of Don Pedro, King of Caftile, lies buried in this church, which is a venerable Gothic ftru&ure. Abbots Langley is another agreeable village in this neighbour- hood, which belonged to the abbey of St. Albans. The church is an handfome edifice, fituated in the middle of the village, and at the end is a fine tower. This was the birth place of Nicholas Breakefpeare, who was eledted pope under the name of Adrian IV. &edburne is a village on the high road leading to Dunftable, which contains many handfome houfes, and feveral good inns ; for being a great thoroughfare, the waggons from Birmingham, Shrewfbury, Wolverhampton, and many other places, put up at it the night before they reach London. It is an agreeable place, and was formerly much frequented by dovotees, on ac- count of the pretended relics of Amphibalus, a martyr, who is faid to have preached the gofpel here in the third century. Flamjiead, on the left hand of the road, about four miles be- yond Redburne, was formerly a market town, and had feveral fairs ; but they are difcontinued. The church is a venerable Gothic ftructuie, fituate on a hill, with a fquare tower and a lofty fpiie, which are feen at a great diftance. The church has thtee ifleSj and in them are feveral ancient monuments. Stevenage is a fmall, but ancient market-town in Her t- fordfhire, in the great north ipad. The church was built upon a dry THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. a dry Tandy hill ; the houfes in the town are but indifferent ; but there is a good free- fchool, with an ancient hofpital, and feveral alms-houfes. — A little to the fouth of this town are the remains of an ancient camp, by fome fuppofed to have been made by the Romans, although others have afcribed it to the Danes ; and there is a place near it ftill known by the name of Danes- end. St^ndon is a fmall town on the river Rib, which has an hand fome church, and feveral endowments for a fchool, and for the poor. BISHOP's STORTFORD Is thirty miles from London, and thirteen from Stevenage. It derives its name from a ford over the river Stort, at the bot- tom of the town, which, ever fince the time of William the Norman, has belonged to the bifhops of London. King John made this a corporation town, with power to chufe its own officers, and it formerly fent members to parliament, but has long ago loft that privilege. The bifliop of London appoints a bailiff here, for what is called his liberty, and to him are direct- ed fheriff's warrants, to be executed in this and feveral of the neighbouring parifhes. The bifhop holds his courts leet and baron at the manor of Padmore, at the north end of the town. This is a confiderable, well-built place, full of good inns, being a thoroughfare to Cambridge, Newmarket, and feveral towns in Suffolk. It confifts of four ftreets, in the form of a crofs, pointing eaft, weft, north and fouth. It has a church, which ftands on a hill, in the middle of the town, with an hand- fome tower, a fine ring of eight bells, and a fpire, covered with lead, fifty feet high. This church had an organ fo long ago as the time of Henry the Seventh, and is thought to be very anci- ent, becaufe in one of the windows were the names and pictures of king Athelftan, St. Edward, and king Edward. Here are two alms houies and a grammar-fchool ; the fchool was built about half a century ago, by the contribution of the gentry, both of this county and Eiiex. It ftands ,in the high ftreet, upon arches, under which are fhops and a market; it fronts the church-yard, and confifts of three rooms, which, with the flair-cafe, make a fquara» building ; the front to the ftreet is the grammar-fchool, and the two wings are the writing-fchool and library, to which every fcholar, when he leaves the fchool, gives a book. The river of Hunjdon^ which is fituated on the river Stort, wa$ j[o rrtuch efteemed in former times for its healthy fituation, that King 2fi6 A NEW DISPLAY OF King Henry VIII. eredted a houfe here, to which he often re- foned, and in which he had his children brought up. It ftands on a high hill, from whence there is a moft delightful profped ; and underneath are meadows, with the river winding in the moft agreeable manner. Near it is the houfe where the royal children rec ived their education, which is now the feat of a private gen- tleman. The gardens are laid out with great tafte, and there is a large bafon, from whence water is conveyed to the different plantations in the gardens. BUNTINGFORD Is a fmall town, fituated at the ford of a fmall river, called the Rib, in the poft- road to Cambridge, at the diftance of thirty- one miles from London. It ftands in four pariihes, in one of which, called Layfton, it is a chapelry. The chapel isanhand- fome brick ftru&ure, rinifhed in 1626. Here is a fumptuous alms- houfe, founded and endowed by Dr. Seth Ward., Bifhop of Salifbury, for four ancient men, and as many ancient women, who, from a ftate of affluence, were reduced by misfortunes to poverty. Each man and each woman has an apartment con- futing of four rooms, two above and two below, with every convenience that can be reafonably wifhed for or expected. An eftate was alfo left for their fupport, by the fame prelate, There is a free-grammar fchool in this town, wherein Bifhop Ward was educated, he being a native of this place ; he gave four fcho- larfhips, of twelve pound - a year, to Chrift's college in Cam- bridge, to be enjoyed by four fcholars, natives of Hertford- fliire, who were educated at this fchool, till they are matters of arts. The village of Braugbing, which is at a little diftance from hence, was confidered as a place of great importance when the Romans were in Britain ; and by many is fuppofed to be the Cafieromagum of Antoninus. There are near it the ruins of a Roman camp, which appears to have been ftronglv fortified, and many coins have been dug up near it, The church in this village is a very handfome edifice. Near the church-yard is an old houfe, at prefent inhabited by poor families, but which was ori- ginally defignedfor a very different purpofe. Some centuries ago, a perfon of fortune, whofe name is not at prefent known, built this houfe, and endowed it with a fufficient falary, to defray the expences attending the weddings of the poorer fort of people in the parifh. It contained all forts of neceflary furniture, with a large kitchen, a cauldron for boiling meat, and fpits for what they intended to roaft. Here was alfo a large room for merri- ment THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 287 mert, a lodging-loom with a bride-bed, and good linen j fome of which furniture was in being a few years ago. Barkway is a flourifhing and populous town, at the diftanc« of thirty-five miles from London, and being a confidcrable tho- roughfare in the north-road, contains fome good inns The church in this town is an handfome Gothic ftiu&ure, and feve- ral of the windows in it are painted ; and in one of them is an abfurd and fuperftitious reprefentation of the Deity creating the world, which is a difgrace to a Proteftant church. Baldock is thirty-feven miles from London, and ftands be- tween two hills, in a chalky foil, fit for corn It is a pretty large town, and in the middle of it is an handfome church, with three chancels, and a beautiful tower : among other benefac- tions to the poor of the place, Mr. John Winne gave 1 i,oooI. to build fix alms-houfes, and purchafe lands to raife an annuity of forty (hillings a piece to every poor perfon fettled in them. Here are many maltfters, and the market of this town is very confi- derable both for corn and malt. HITCHING Is one of the beft built, and moft populous towns in the county of Hertford. It ftands in a pleafant valley, at the diftance of thirty- four miles from London ; and is governed by a bailiff and four conftables, two for the town, and two for the out-parts. It is divided into the three wards of Bencroft, Bridge, and Tilt- houfe. It is faid to have been formerly one of the greatell places of inland trade in England, and many merchants both from France and Flanders refided here, to purchafe our commodities, and to difpofe of their own. Here is an handfome church, 153 feet long, and 67 broad, with three chancels. Here is a free- fchool, a charity-fchool, and eight alms-houfes. Large quan- tities of malt are made in this town, and it is a great market for all forts of grain. There is a meeting here for Proteftant Dif- fenters. The village of Hexton^ near Hitching, is remarkable for a bloody battle fought between the Saxons and Danes, wherein it is fuppofed fome; perfons of confiderable note were (lain, becaufe there are feveral funeral monuments near the place. There is alfo at a little diftance from hence a very ftrong camp, which is conjectured to have been thrown up by the Danes, to defend themfelves in cafe of their being defeated, until they received frelh fuccours from their countrymen. It is raifed in an oblong manner, and fo ftrongly fortified both by nature ana art, that a thoufand men muh: cefend themfelves in it againft a confider- able 288 A NEW DISPLAY OF able army. — A little to the fouth of Hexton, is a fine piece of ground, called Lillho, on a riling ground, where horfe-races are held, and from whence there is an extenfive and beautiful pro- fpea. LUTON, This is an handfome town in Bedfordfhire, fituated between two hills, at the diftance of thirty-two miles from London. The inhabitants carry on a confiderable manufactory of ftraw hats. In the middle of the town is a good market- ho ufe, which on the market-day, which is Monday, is well furnifhed with corn, poultry, and other provifions ; and there are two fairs held here, one on the 25th of April, and the other on the 18th of Octo- ber. At a little diftance from hence is Luton Hoo, a fine feat belonging to the Earl of Bute. It is an elegant pile of building, and that nobleman, who feemsto underftand decorating a coun- try feat, much becter than governing a kingdom, has expended very confiderable fums of money in ornamenting this retreat. The entrance to it is through a lodge facing the town of Luton, and the walk up to the houfe is along a fine artificial river, which was formerly nothing more than a fmall ftream. On the right hand is a rifing ground, whereon are fome exceeding fine plan- tations, and on the left are a vaft number of trees, planted fo as to imitate nature, along the banks of the ftream. The Earl has caufed an artificial lake to be made, and in the middle of it is a fmallifland, to which you pafs by a pleafure boat, andfrom whence the profpect: is extenfive and delightful. On the ifland are fine plantations of young trees j and as you advance towards the houfe, you pafs through a fine row of elms, and on each fide are large clumps of beech, which add greatly to the beauty of the fcene. Through thefe trees there is a fine profpect of the neighbouring hills, fields,, and cottages j whilft the towers and fpires of fteeples s lead the fpectator into a plea- fing deception, by caufing him to imagine, that what he beholds is actually a rural city. In a pleafing valley, near the houfe, is a monumental pillar, elegantly executed in the Tufcan order, and feert to the greateft advantage through the trees, on the pede- ftal of which is the following inscription, « In memory of Mr. 41 jfrancis Napier." 3 DUN- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 289 DUNSTABLE Is a populous town, thirty-four miles from London, built on the fpot where two Roman ways, called Watling-ftreet, and Icknild-ftreet, crofs each other; and Roman coins have fometimes been found here. The town is fituated on a hill of chalk, juft at the end of a long ridge of hills, called the Chiltern. Here are four ftreets, anfwering to the four cardinal winds ; and becaufe of the drynefs of the (oil, where they cannot find fprings, have each a pond, which though only fupplied by rain water, is never dry. There are feveral good inns here. King Henry the Firft built and endowed a Priory of Black Canons here ; and the church of Dunftable is part of that which belonged to the Priory, and is a noble Gothic ftru£ture. There is a tomb-ftone in this church, from which it appears, that a woman in the town had nineteen children at five births, having been delivered twice of five, and three times of three. There is a large manufactory of ftraw hats carried on in this town, and another of lace, by which almoft all the poor women and girls are employed. There was formerly a royal palace here, which flood over againft the church, and there are ftill fome remains of it, which have been repaired and converted into a farm houfe, (till called Kingfbury. At the weekly market, which is on Wednefday, vaft quantities of corn are fold ; and there are four fairs held here annually, namely, on Afti-Wednefday, the 22d of May, the 12th of Auguft, and the 12th of November. In a plain upon the top of the chalk-hills, near Dunftable, is an area, of about eight or nine acres of land, vulgarly called " the Maiden's Bower." Some have imagined it to have been a Britifh camp, and others a work thrown up by the Danese The rampart is high, and the Icknild ftreet runs along the bottom of the hill. The road along the chalk-hill is extremely dangerous in froftv weather, and has occafioned many fatal ac- cidents, both to men and horfes. But fome years ago the gen- tlemen of Bedfordfliire entered into a fubfeription, for Hoping the hill, near the town, for the benefit of the road, and there are conftantly employed a certain number of hands to keep it in order. — Dunftable is remarkable for larks, which are faid to be in greater plenty, and of a larger fize, near this town, than any where elfe in the kingdom. Leighton Buzzard is a fmall market town, feven miles and an half from Dunftable, which has little in it that is re- markable j but its market is well ftored with cattle, and its Witfuntide fairs with horfes. O o WO- 290 A NEW DISPLAY OF W O B U R N Is a fmall market -town, forty-three miles from London, and being fituated on the road to Northampton, &c. contains many good inns. The whole town belongs to the Duke of Bedford, and that noble family have endowed here two charity- fchools. In 1724, about one hundred houfes were burnt down, which are fince neatly re-built ; and a fine market-houfe has been ere&ed, at the expence of the Duke of Bedford ; fo that the town now makes an handfome appearance. The principal trade of this place confifts in the making of jockeys caps, and dig- ging fuller's earth, of which there are great quantities in the neighbourhood. Woburn Abbey, the noble feat of the Duke of Bedford, is in the neighbourhood of this town ; and was originally built by Hugh Bolebec, a powerful baron in the reign of King Ste- phen. It was intended for the ufe of the monks of the Ciftertian order, who came in great fwarms into this kingdom in the twelfth century. At the diiTolution of the monafteries, the lands and manors belonging to this abbey were given to Sir John Ruffel, anceftor of the prefent Duke; and this fpacious and elegant houfe, which is fituated in the middle of the park, is erected where the convent formerly ftood. The houfe forms a large quadrangle, with an handfome court in the center, fronting which is a large bafon, fupplied with water from its own fprings. Behind are two large quadrangles of offices diftindt from the houfe, which are very beautiful buildings ; plain and fimple, but extremely proper for their de- ftination. They are built like the houfe, of white ftone ; and in the center of their principal front is a fmall dome, rifing over a porticoed center, fupported by Tufcan pillars, which have a very good effect. In the houfe you enter firft the Hall, which is an handfome room, the deling of which is fupported by eight pillars. The Green Drawing Room is extremely elegant : between the win- dows are fine glafles, and two very noble flabs of Egyptian mar- ble. The chimney-piece is of white marble polifhed, and very handfome. In this room are pictures of the plagues of Egypt* David and Abigal, and a very fine landfeape. What is called the Decker-iuorked Room contains a bed of uncommon elegance, of decker work lined with green filk. The work is exquifite, and the reprefentation of the birds and beafts in it admirable. The chimney-piece is very elegant ; the fcroll of polifhed white marble in a light and elegant taffe. - THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 291 The Dining Room is a very noble room. The cu; 1Tinev _ piece is elegant, with a feftoon of flowers carved in white mi. ble, and finely polifhed. In the room are four large pictures of the battles of Alexander. In the Yellow Drawing Room are two fine portraits by Sir Jofhua Reynolds, one of the late Marquis of Taviftock, and the other of the prefent Dutchefs of Marl- borough. The chimney-piece is very elegant, and the pier- glafs frame finely carved of plated filver. Here is alfo a por- trait of the late Duke of Bedford. In the Coffee Room is a fmall portrait of Francis, Earl of Bed- ford, which is exceedingly fine, the face and hands admirably painted. The Grotto is pretty of its kind ; with bafs relief figures of ruftic in fhells, and fine china jars. The Billiard Room is hung with very fine tapeftry, defigned from Raphael's cartoons. The Dutchefs' s Dreffing Room is extremely elegant, hung with emboffed work on white paper, which has a very pleafing effect. The chimney-piece has a carved fcroll in wood, the marble black and veined. The pier-glafs is large, and the frame very elegant ; and over the chimney-piece is a portrait of Lady Of- fory, by Hudfon. The chairs and fofas are of painted taffeta. The French- Bed-chamber is exceedingly elegant ; the bed and hangings are of a very rich belmozeen filk. The chimney-piece is light and beautiful ; the cornice feftoons of gilt carving on a white ground, and the cieling of the fame on a lead ground ; the pier-glafs and frame, and the frame of the landfcape over the chimney are very elegant. The Dreffing Room is likewife hung with the fame filk, the cieling and cornice richly ornamented with fcrolls of gilding 011 a white ground : the chimney-piece is all of white marble po- lifhed. The doors, door-cafes, and window-fhutters, &c. are all ornamented like the cieling, in white and gold. In this room are four very large blue and white china jars j the two by the windows are uncommonly fine. The State Bed-chamber is mod magnificently furnifhed. The bed and hangings are of very rich blue damafkj the cieling or-r namented in compartments of rich gilding on a white ground. The chimney-piece, of marble polifhed, is very elegant; and the carved and gilt ornaments around the landfcape over it in a beautiful tafte : the toilette is all of very handfome Drefden work, the glafs frame, and boxes of gold. An India cabinet on each fide of old japan, with coloured china jars exquifuely fine. The Dreffing Room is hung with green damafk; the chimney- piece is very handfome, and the pier-glafs fine. The Drawing Room is exceedingly elegant ; the cieling a Mofaic pattern of rich carving on a white ground ; the chimney piece exceffively O o 2 hand- A NE-VV DISPLAY OF handfome, •* ?,e cornice fupported by double pillars, of very fine marble. The pier-glafles immenfely large, and in one -fjlate j under them moft noble flabs of Siena marble. In this room are feveral exquifite paintings, particulary a landfcape by Claude Lorraine, reprefenting a ihip partly appearing from be- hind a building amazingly beautiful ; the diffusion of light, the general brilliancy, and the harmony of the whole, are admira- ble. A holy family, very fine, the turn of the boy's head is inimitable. A virgin and child ; the hair of the virgin's head, and her attitude are moft fweetly elegant and expreflive. A Magdalen; very fine. The infide of a church; the minute expre/Iion of the architecture, and the rays of light are finely done. A rock, with the broken branches hanging from its clefts, fuppofed to be by Salvator ; the expreffion is very noble, and the romantic wildnefs of the fcene moft excellently repre- fented. A holy family; the child ftanding in the cradle; a very pleafing picture. Jofeph interpreting the dreams of Pha- raoh, by Rembrandt ; moft admirably executed ; in a greater flile than is common with this mafter. Rembrandt by himfelf j inimitably done. The Duchefs of Bedford, prefenting Lady Caroline to Minerva, by Hamilton ; this is a very large picture, and fome of the figures not inelegantly done for this mafter. The Saloon is moft magnificently fitted up, and elegantly furniftied ; the cieling beautiful, of gilt carving on white ; the door cafe finely carved and gilt, the cornices fupported by Co - rinthian pillars in a noble, but light and pleafing ftile; the chimney-piece of white marble, beautifully polifhed : in the center hangs a magnificent lufture. Here is a fine picture repre- fenting the laft fupper ; the drawing is in a free and bold (tile ; and a fine piece of angels, fuppofed to be painted by Albano. The Second Dining room is a very noble room, the cieling white and gold, and the chimney piece very elegant, over which is a fine landfcape. The Second Drawing-room is very elegantly fitted up ; and among other pictures contains two capital land- fcapes, morning and evening, by Marrat; two paintings of battles ; and one of lyons, by Rubens. The Piilure Gallery is or- namented by a vaft number of elegant portaits of the Rufiel fa- mily ; and among thofe which are moft finely executed, are the portraits of William, Earl of Bedford, the Countefs of Somer- set, and Lady Catharine Brooke. The ornaments of this room are all carving painted white. There are four ftatues here, one of which is a Venus of Medicis, and another Venus plucking a thorn from out of her foot. Woeurn Park is one of the largeft in the kingdom, being ten miles round, all walled in, and contains a great variety of hill and dale, with fine woods of the nobleft oaks. We pafs from THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 293 from the houfe through them towards the fouth, and look up the great glade, which is cut through the park for feveral miles, at the end of which appears a Chinefe temple. Then winding through the woods we come to the Duchefs's Shrubbery, which contains fixteen acres of land beautifully laid out in the modern tafte, with many venerable oaks in it. From whence we advance to the hill at the north end, from which is a vaft profpect into Buckinghamshire, Hertfordfhire, and Bedfordfhire. Turning down the hill to the left, the riding leads to the ever-green plantation of above two hundred acres of land, which little more than thirty years ago was a barren rabbit warren, but is now a. very beautiful winter's ride, on a dry foil, with all kinds of ever- greens of a noble growth. About the middle on the left hand fide, is an handfome temple, retired and pleafing ; at the end of this plantation, we come to the lower water, which is about ten acres, and in the center is an ifland with a very elegant and light Chinefe temple, large enough for thirty people to dine in ; and in the adjoining wood is a kitchen, and other accommodati- ons for making ready the repafts the Duke takes in the temple. And in the front of the houfe is a large bafon of water, in which are feveral handfome boats. AMPTHILL Is a fmall market-town, forty-four miles from London, plea- fantly fituated between two hills, almoft in the heart of Bedford- fhire. Here is a charity- fchool, and an hofpital for ten poor men, who have each a confiderable weekly allowance. — This place is chiefly remarkable for a large manfion-houfe, which be- longs alfo to the Duke of Bedford. It was repaired and fitted up in 1765, for the ufe of the late Marquis of Taviftock. It was firft built by Sir John Cornwall, in the reign of King Henry VI. out of the fpoils taken from the French ; but after- wards came by forfeiture to the crown. Queen Katherine of Arragon, fometimes refided in this houfe, after her divorce from Henry VIII. The hall is adorned with a capital collection of paintings by the beft Italian matters, which the late Marquis of Taviftock collected whilft he was abroad on his travels. At Houghton Park, near Ampthill, the Earl of Upper OlTory has a fine feat, which was firft built by the Countefs of Pem- broke. The houfe is a noble and venerable edifice, containing many fine rooms ; and the gardens are laid out with much taffe and magnificence. There is ftill a large pear-tree here, under which the celebrated Sir Philip Sydney is faid to have written part of his Arcadia. fVeJloning 294 A NEW DISPLAY OF Wejloning is a pleafant village, which has a venerable church, that ttands in an agreeable and rural fituation. The Earl of Pomfret has a feat here., Near Sil foe is Wrest-House, a magnificent feat, with a large park, which belonged to the ancient family of De Grey, Dukes of Kent. It now belongs to the Earl of Hardwicke, who acquired it by his marriage with Jemima Marchionefs Grey, and Baronefs Lucas, who is apeerefs in her own right. In an hermitage here is the following infcription, which was written by a perfon who came on a vifit to this agreeable retreat. " Stranger, or gueft, whome'er this hallow'd grove '«* Shall chance relieve where fweet contentment dwells, " Bring here no heart that with ambition fwells, With av'rice pines, or burns with lawlefs love. < c Vice-tainted fouls will all in vain remove ** To fylvan {hades, and hermits peaceful cells ; " In vain will feek retirement's lenient fpells, f ct Or hope that blifs, which only good men prove ** If heav'n-born truth, and facred virtue's love, f << Which chear, adorn, and dignify the mind, *' Are conftant inmates of thy honeft breaft ; " If, unrepining at thy neighbour's ftore, 44 Thou count ? ft as thine the good of all mankind, «* Then, welcome, (hare the friendly groves of Wre/l" At a little diftance from hence is ehe village of Copbil/, which is a pretty rural place, not far from which is a fine feat belong- ing to Earl Granville, known by the name of Hawnes. Shefford is a (mall market-town, pleafantly fituated be- tween two rivulets, over each of which there is a bridge. — At a little diftance from hence is Cbickfand Priory, the feat of Sir George Osborne, Bart. At Soutbill in this neighbourhood, is a fine feat of the Lord Torrington's. At Nortbill, there is a very fine window in the chancel of the church, painted by Oliver ; and the redlor of that church has two fmall pieces of painted glafs by the fame mafter, which are of uncommon excellence. — The parifh of Sandy , near Northill, is much noted for its gardens ; there are above one hundred and fifty acres of land occupied by many gardeners, who fupply the whole country, for many miles, with garden ftufl", even to Hertford. Cardington is a very neat and agreeable village ; moft of the houfes and cottages are new-builf, all of them tiled, and many of brick ; which, with white pales, and little plantations, have a molt plealing effect. BED- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 295 BEDFORD Is forty-eight miles from London, and is the county-town, being a clean, well-built, and populous place. 7 he town, as well as the county, is divided into two parts by the river Oufe, which erodes it in the direction of eaft and weft ; the north and fouth parts of the town are joined by a ftone bridge, which has two gates. The aflizes are always held here ; and the town is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bail ffi, twelve aldermen, two chamberlains, and other officers. There are five churches here, three on the north, and two on the fouth fide of the ri- ver. The chief of them, and indeed the principal ornament of the town, is St. Paul's, which had once a college of prebendaries. There was a famous caftle here, which was demoliftied in the reign of Henry VIII. and the fcite is now a bowling-green : it ftands high and pleafant, and is reckoned one of the fineft in England. There is a good free-fchool in this town, which was founded by Sir William Harpur, Lord Mayor of London in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. This gentleman was a native of Bedford, and new lies buried in one of the churches. Near the free- fchool are two ancient hofpitals, for lazars, and an alms houfe for eight poor perfons, befides a charity-fchool for forty children, partly endowed, and partly fupported by voluntary fubfeription. But themoft confiderable provision made for the poor of Bed- ford was, a field where Bedford-Row ftands, behind Gray's Inn, London, which at the time the donation was made, produced * only a fmall rent, but now, by the encreafe of buildings, and the expiration of leafes, is become extremely valuable. It was given to the town, that the rents might be applied to the por- tioning young women, when they entered into the marriage ftate, and to put out poor children as apprentices. If this large eftate be managed with judgment and integrity, it may be ren- dered a charitable inftitution of a very extenfive and beneficial nature. Bedford fends two members to parliament, who are chofen by all the freemen, the mayor being the returning officer. The liberties of the corporation extend about nine miles round the town. There are fome good inns here, and provifions of all forts are in great plenty. There is a lace manufactory here, which employs about five hundred women and girls. The Vale of Bedford, which is a perfect flat tract of land for fome miles round the town, is very rich in foil, and excel- lently cultivated, producing noble crops of wheat, barley, and turnips, 2 .At 296 A NEW DISPLAY OF At Clapkam, about two miles from Bedford, is a fine feat belonging to the Earl of Aftiburnham j and near it is Oakly^ a feat belonging to the Duke of Bedford. At Brumbam, which is on the weft fide of the river Oufe, Lord Trevor has a fine feat. Harewood, or Harold, is a place of confiderable autiquity, but is now reduced to a village. Here was formerly a nunnery of the order of St. Auguftine. Part of the church is ftill re- maining, and appears to have been a very elegant Gothic build- ing. * BIGGLESWADE Is a market-town, five miles from Bedford, and forty-five from London. Jt is pleafantly fituated on the banks of the river Ivel, over which there is a good ftone bridge ; and lighters come up with coals to the town. There was formerly a fmall college fur fecular priefts here. At prefent the town is in a flouriftiing condition, and hasforne good inns in it, being a great thorough- fare in the road from London to York. Its weekly market is on Tuefday, and it is reckoned one of the greateft in England fo barley. There is a village called Warden, near Bigglefivade, where a monaftery was founded for the monks of the Ciftertian order, in the latter end of the reign of King Henry I. which was en- dowed with lands to a confiderable value. BEFORE we conclude this Volume, we fhall make fome general remarks on the feveral Counties, in which thofe places are fituated which we have already defcribed. SURREY is bounded by the river Thames, which parts it from Middlefex, on the north j by Suflex on the fouth ; by Kent on the eaft ; and by Berklhire and Harnpfhire on the weft. It is about thirty- four mile in length, twenty-one in breadth, and one hundred and twelve miles in circumference} and contains thirteen hundreds, one hundred and forty parifhes, thirteen market towns, four hundred and fifty villages and ham- lets, and about five hundred and ninety-two thoufand acres. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Winches- ter. The air and foil in the middle and extreme parts of this county are very different. Towards the bordeis of the county, efpecially on the north-fide, near the Thames* and on tbe fouth THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 297 fouth fide, in and near a vale called Holmfdale, that ftretches for feveral miles from Darking to the county of Kent, the air is mild and healthy, and the foil fruitful in corn and hay, with a fine mixture of woods and fields ; but in iome parrs of the county the air is rather bleak. Surrey contains many delightful places, though fome parts of it conftft chiefly of open and fandy ground, and barren heaths. The air of Cottman Dean, near Darking, has been reputed the beft in England. The principal commodities of this county are corn, box-wood, wallnuts, and fullers earth. There is a kind of wild black cherry, that grows about Darking, of which the inhabitants make confiderable quantities of red wine, which is faid to be little inferior to French claret, and much more wholefome. The county in general is well provided with river fifh, and the Wandle is famous for plenty of fine trout. The rivers of this county are the Thames, the Mole, the Wey, and the Wandle. The Mole rifes near Oakley, foutrw weft of Darking, and running eaftward for feveral miles, along the borders of Suflex, forms an angle, and directs its courfe north-weft. At the bottom of a hill called 3oxhiIl, near Dark- ing, the ftream difappears, and paries under ground in a place called the Swallow, probably from the river being fwallowed up there. From this circumftance the river is alfo fometimes called the Swallow; and it appears to have derived the name Mole from working its way under ground; for it is generally believed, that from the bottom of Box-hill,where it is fwallowed up, it works a paflage for more than two miles to Leatherhead, where it is fuppofed to fpring up anew; and from whence it continues its courfe northward, till it falls into the Thames, over-againft Hampton-Court, in the county of Middlefex. Some late wri- ters have, however, been of opinion, that the ftream of the Mole is altogether loft at the Swallow, and is not the fame that iifes at Leatherhead ; but rather that the waters iffue from a new fpring, and that the river formed by them is another river ; though from a belief of its being the fame river, it obtained the fame name. The Wey rifes not far from Alton, a market* town of Hampfhire, and directing its courfe eaftwards, en- ters this county at Farnham, from whence it paffes in the fame direction to Godalming, and there forming an angle, it runs northward by Guildford, from thence to Woking, and run- ning north-eaft, empties itfelf by a double mouth into the Thames, about a mile from Chertfey. This river is naviga- ble to Godalming, and its navigation is of great benefit to the fouth-weft parts, of Surrey, by fupplying the inhabitants with coals, and many other neceltaries, from London. The Wandle, or Vandal, rifes at Carftialton, near Croydon, and running north, P p with- 298 A NEW DISPLAY OF with a fmall, but clear ft ream, falls into the river Thame; at Wandfworth. MIDDLESEX derives its name from its having been inha- bited by the Middle Saxons, who were thus diftinguifhed, on account of their fituation in the Middle, between the three anti- ent kingdoms of the Eaft, Weft, and South Saxons, by which they were furrounded. This county is bounded by Hertford- fhire on the north ; by the river Thames, which divides it f;om the county of Surrey, on the fouth ; by the river Colne, which feparates it from Buckinghamfhire, on the weft ; and by the ri- ver Lea, which divides it from the county of Effex on the eaft. It extends fcarcely twenty four miles in length, about eighteen in breadth, and is not more than ninety-five miles in circumfe- rence; but as it comprehends the cities of London and Weft- minfter, which {land in the fouth eaft part of the county, it is by much the wealthier!: and moft populous county in England. It is divided into fix hundreds, and two liberties ; and contains two cities and five market- towns. It lies in the province of Can- terbury, and diocefe of London ; and exclufive of London and Weftminlter, has feventy-three parifh churches, befides chapels of eafe. The air of Middlefex is very pleafant and healthy, to which a Tine gravelly foil contributes not a little. The foil produces plen- ty of corn ; and the county abounds with fertile meadows and gardeners grounds ; for the art of gardening, aflifted by the rich compoft from London, is brought to much greater perfection in this county than in any other part of England. The rivers of this county are the Thames, the Colne, the Lea, and the New River. The Thames is one of the fineftarrd moft beautiful rivers in the world ; and at London, the depth of it is fufficient, not only for the navigation of large (hips, but for making it, what it really is, one of the greateft ports for trade in the univerfe. Its water is extremely wholefome, and fit for ufe in the longeft voyages, during which, it will work and ferment itfelf like ftrong liquor, till it becomes perfectly fine. It abounds with a great variety of fifti, among which, its faimons, fmelts, and flounders are particularly admired. ESSEX is bounded by Suffolk and Cambridgefhire on the north ; by the German Ocean on the eaft : by the river Thames, which feparates it from the county of Kent on the fouth; and by the counties of Middlefex and Hertford on the weft. It is about fifty miles in length, thirty-five in breadth, and one hun- dred and forty in circumference ; and contains twenty hundreds, twenty-two market-towns, four hundred and fifteen parifhes, THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 299 and one million two hundred and forty thoufand acres. It abounds with corn, cattle, and wild fowl j and the north parts of it, efpe- cially about SafFron-Welden, produce great quantities of faffron. Abundance of oxen and fheep are fed in the marines near the "Thames, and fent to the markets of London. The inhabi- tants of this county have plenty of fifh of all forts from the Tea and rivers ; and by the fea fide are decoys, which in the winter leafon produce great profit to their owners. Towards the fea, the air of this county is aguilh, though it is more fo in regard to ftrangers than the natives. The principal manufactures of this county are cloths and fluffs, but particularly bays and fays, of which, not half a century ago, fuch quantities were export- ed to Spain and the Spanifh colonies m America, to cloath the nuns and friars, that there has often been a return from Lon- don of 30,0001. a week, in ready money only, to Colcheter and a few fmall towns round it. The principal rivers in this county are the Stqur, the Lea, the Coin, the Blackwater, and the Chelmer. The Stour rifes in the north-weft part of Effex, aud running fouth eaft, fepa- rates it from Suffolk, and falls into the German Ocean at Har- wich. The Lea rifes in the north-weft part of the county, runs almoft directly fouth, and feparating Effex from the counties of Hertford and Middlefex, falls into the Thames at Blackwall. The Coin rifes alfo in the north-weft part of Effex, and running fouth -weft to Halfted, runs parallel to the river Stour, and paffes by Colchefler, where, forming an angle, it runs fouth-fouth eaft, and falls into the German Ocean, about feven or ei^nt miles fouth-eaft from that town. The Blackwater rifes alfo in the north-weft part of Effex, and running fouth-eaft, paffes by Brain- tree and falls into the Chelmer at Maiden. The Chelmer rifes within two or three miles of the fource of the river Blackwater, and running nearly parallel to it, paffes to Chelmsford, where, forming an angle, it runs directly eaft, and receiving the Back- water, falls into the German Ocean near Maiden. KENT is bounded by SuiTex and the Englifh channel on the fouth, by the river Thames and the German fea on the north, by the fame fea on theeaft, and by Surrey on the weft. This county is divided into five lathes, which are fubdivided into fourteen bailiwicks, and thefe again into fixty eight hundreds. A lathe is a divifion peculiar to Kent and Suffex, and connfts of two or more bailiwicks, as a badiwick does of two or more hundreds. Kent contains two cities, and twenty- nine market-towns, e even hundred and eighty villages, and about one million two hun- dred and forty eight thoufand acres. It lies in the province Pp2 Of 300 A NEW DISPLAY OF of Canterbury, and partly in thatdiocefe, and partly in thedio- cefe of Rochefter, and has four hundred and eight parifhes. The county is nominally divided into three diftri&s, Eaft- Kent, Weft-Kent, and South-Kent ; or Upper-Kent, Midde- Kcnt, and Lower-Kent. Upper-Kent, or Eaft-Kent, which is in the north-eaft divifion, is faid to be healthy, but not weal- thy; Lower-Kent, or the fouth parts, called alfo the Weald of Kent, are laid to be wealthy, but not healthy ; and Middle Kent, bordering upon London and Surrey, is faid to be both wealthy and healthy. In general, as great part of this county lies upon the lea, the air is thick, foggy, and warm, though often puri- fied by fouth, and fouth-weft winds, andthefhore being gene- rally cleaner than that of Effex, the marfhy parts of Kent do not produce fo many agues in the fame degree as the hundreds of Eifex ; and the air in the higher parts of Kent is reckoned very healthy. The foil is generally rich, and fit for plough, pafture, or meadow; and that part of the county which borders upon the river Thames abounds with chalk- hills, from whence not only the city of London, and parts adjacent, but even Holland and Flanders, are fuppljecj with lime and chalk; and from thefe hills the rubbifh of the chalk is carried in lighters and hoys to the coafts of Eifex, Suffolk, and Norfolk, where it is fold to the fanners as manure for their lands. This county affords fome mines of iron, and in general abounds with plantations of hops, fields of corn, and orchards of cher- ries, apples, and other fruit ; it produces alfo wood and madder for dyers ; and in the cliffs between Dover and Folkftone, there is found plenty of famphire ; hemp and St. Foin grow here in great abundance ; and the fouth and weft parts of Kent, efpe- ciaily that called the Weald, are covered with woods of oak, beech, and walnut trees, which afford great quantities of tim- ber for {flipping and other ufes ; here are alfo many woods of birch, from which the broom-makers in and about London are abundantly fupplied. The cattle hereof all forts are reckoned larger than they are in the neighbouring 'counties ; and the Weald of Kent is rem-ikable for large cattle ; here are feveral parks of fallow deer, and warrens of grey rabbits ; and this county, abounding in rivers, and . being almoft furrounded by the fea, is well fupplied with all manner of ilfh, and in particu- lar is famous for large oyfters. BERKSHIRE is bounded by Hampfhire on the fouth j by Wiiu'hire and Glocefieifhire on the weft ; by the river Thames, which divides it from Buckmghamthire and Oxfordfhire on the north ; and on the eaft by Midd'efcx and Surrey. It is about thirty-nine miles long, twenty- nine broad, and one hundred THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 301 hundred and twenty in circumference ; and contains four par- liamentary boroughs, twenty hundreds, twelve market-towns, one hundred and forty pariflies, and fix hundred and feventy-one villages. The air of this county is healthy even in the vales, and tho* the foil in general is not the moft fertile, yet the appearance of the country is remarkably pleafant, being delightfully varied with wood and water, which are feen at once in almoft every profpecl. This county is well ftored with timber, particularly oak and beech ; and fome parts of it produce great quantities of wheat and barley. The whole of this county is in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of Salifbury. The river Thames wafhes more of this county than any other it touches; and from this circumftance Berkfhire derives both fertility, and convenience for the carriage of its commodities to London, of which it fends a great many, particularly malt, meal, and timber. 1 here are four other rivers in the coun- ty, the Rennet, great part of which is navigable, the Lod* den 9 the Ocke, and the Lambourne, a fmall ftream, which contrary to all other rivers, is always higheft in fummer, {brinks gradually as winter approaches, and at laft is nearly, if not quite, dry. BUCKINGHAMSHIRE is bounded by the Thames, which divides it from Berkfliire on the fouth ; by Oxfordfhire on the weft ; by Northamptonfliire on the north j and by Bedford- fhire, Hertfordihire, and Middlefex on ihe eaft. It is thirty- nine miles in length, eighteen in breadth, and one hundred and thirty-eight in circumference ; and contains eleven market- towns, eight hundreds, one hundred and eighty-five pariflies, fix hundred and fifteen villages, and about four hundred and for- ty-one thoufand acres. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Lincoln. This county is diverfified with pleafant woods, and fine ftreams, which render it a charming retreat, Its chief rivers are the Thames, the Oufe, and the Coin. The foil is very fruitful, both in corn and pafture, and abounds with phyfical plants. HERTFORDSHIRE is bounded by Cambridgefliire on the north ; by Middlefex on the fouth ; by Bedfordshire and Buck- inghamshire on the weft, and by Eflex on the eaft. It mea- fures twenty eight miles' from eaft to weft, thirth-fix miles from north to fouth, and one hundred and thirty miles in circumfe- rence; and is divided into eight hundreds, in which are eighteen market-towns, one hundred and twenty parifhes, and about four hundred and fifty-one thoufand acres. This county is wa- tered A NEW DISPLAY OF tered by feveral rivers, the chief of which are the Lea, the Coin, the Stort, the Ver, and the New River. The air of this county is very pure, and confequently heal- thy, and is often recommended by phyficians to valetudinarians, for the prefervation or recovery of health. The foil is for the moft part rich, and in feveral places mixed with a marie, which produces excellent wheat and barley. The chief produce of this county is wood, wheat, barley, and all other forts of gram ; and the wheat and barley of Hertfordfhire are generally h.-ld in very high eftimation. This county lies in the province of Can- terbury, and partly in the diocefe of London, and partly in that of Lincoln. SUSSEX derives its name from a Saxon word which fignifi- cd the iounty of the South Saxons. This county is bounded on ths north by Surrey ; on the eafr, and north-eaft by Kent ; on the fouth by the Britifli channel ; and on the weft by Hampfhire, Jt is about fixty-five miles in length, twenty-nine in breadth, and one hundred and feven in circumference. It is divided into fix rapes, or lathes, each of which is faid to have had its parti- cular cattle, river and foreft. It is alfo fubdivided into iixty- five hundreds, wherein are reckoned three hundred and twelve parifbes, one city, eighteen market -towns, and one thoufand and fixty villages and hamlets. The air of this county along the fea coaft, is aguifh to ftran- gers ; but the inhabitants in general are very healthy. In the north part of thecounty, bordering upon Kent and Surrey, the air is foggy, but not unhealthy ; and upon the Downs it is ex- ceedingly fvA/eet and pure. The foil is various, the hilly parts Jefs fruitful than the others ; the vales, elpecially in that part of the county called the Weald, are dirty but very fertile. On the fea-coaft are very green hills, called the South Downs, well known to travellers for their beautiful profpedt, but better to thofe who deal in wool or fheep, there being great numbers bred here, whofe wool, which is very fine, is too often export- ed clandestinely to France. The middle part of the county is delightfully chequered with meadows, paftures, groves, and corn-fields, which produce great quantities of wheat and barley, The north quarter is {haded with woods, from whence great quantities of excellent timber are carried to the dock-yards, and of charcoal to the iron-works, in the eaftern part of thecoun- ty. — The principal rivers are the Arun, the Adur, the Oufe, and the Rother. Other lefs confiderable rivers in this county are the Lavani, the Cuchmeer, the Ajhburn, and the Ajlen. SufTex lies in the province of Canterbury, and dioctfe of Chiceffer. O X- THE BEAUTIES OF ENGLAND. 303 OXFORDSHIRE is bounded on the eaft by Buckingham- fhire ; on the weft by Gloucefterfhire ; on the north by North- amptonfhire and Warwickftiire ; and on the fouth by Berklhire. It is about forty-two miles in length, twenty-fix in breadth, and one hundred and thirty in circumference ; and contains one city, fifteen market-towns, two hundred and eighty parifties, fourteen hundreds, and about five hundred and thirty-four thou- fand acres. The air of Oxfordfliire is as good as that of any other county in England j for the foil is naturally dry, free from bogs, fens and ftagnant waters, and abounding with quick limpid ftreams, that neceffarily render the air fweet and healthy. The foil is in general very fertile, both for corn and grafs ; but there is a great variety in it, and confcquently feveral degrees of fruitful- nefs. There is plenty of river fifh here, of various kinds, The productions of this county are cattle, fruit, free-ftone, and feve- ral forts of earth ufed in medicine, dying, and fcouring ; but it is thinly ftrewed with wood, and fuel is confequently very fcarce. The principal rivers of this county are the Thames or Ifis, the Evenlode, the Windrufh, the Tame, and the Char- well. This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and dio- cefe of Oxford. BEDFORDSHIRE is bounded on the fouth by Hertford^ (hire; on the north by Northamptonshire and Huntingdonfhire ; on the eaft by Cambridgefhire ; and on the weft by Bucking- fhire. It is about twenty-two miles in length, fifteen in breadth, and feventy-three in circumference. It contains nine hundreds, ten market-towns, and one hundred and twenty four parifhes, five hundred and fifty villages, and about two hundred and fixty thoufand acres. This county, on the north fide of the river Oufe is fruitful and woody, on the fouth fide it is lefs fertile. It pro - duces wheat and barley in great abundance, and of an excellent kind, and i: has forefts and parks well flocked with deer, and fat paftures with cattle. The air is pure and healthful, and the foil in general a deep clay. The principal rivers of this county are the Oufe and the I well. It lies in the province of Canter- bury and diocefe of Lincoln. The End of the First Volume. I N D E X TO THE COUNTIES, CITIES, MARKET- TOWNS, VILLAGES, &c. defcribed in this Work. L Refers to the firft Volume, II. to the Second. Abbot/bury II. 338 Abbots Langley 1. 284 A b erf or d II. 124 Abergavenny II. 268 Abingdon I. 242 Abingdon II. 60 Abury IL 291 Acklatn II. 134 Acomb IL 133 Atfon I. 28 A&on Burnel II. 222 Aldborough, Suffolk II. 49 Aldborough Yorkshire IL 129 Aldworth I. 241 Alford II. 78 Al fret on II. 97 Aldmonbiiry II. 132 Alnwick II. 1 8© Alresford II. 353 Alton II. 245 Alton Altringhani Alvefton Amblefide Arnbrejburj Amerfham Ampthill Amwell Ancafter Ancliff Anddver Apewood-Caftle Appleby Arbury Arundel AJhburne AJhbridge AJhburton AJhby de la Zouch Afhdon AJkrig n. 353 11. 213 11. 281 11. 193 11. 287 1. 270 1. 293 I. 160 II. 86 II. 204 II. 350 I 245 II. 192 II. 20 I. 227 II. 96 I. 282 n. 368 II. 68 I. 182 II. 129 jith lent INDEX. Mhelney, JJle of II. 326 Jtherjltn II. 251 Jttleborough II. 32 Auburn II. 287 ./fW/v II. 19 Aulcejler II. 251 Auldby II. 134 Autt II. 281 Axbridge II. 322 ^W/?z II. 81 Ax?ninjler II. 361 Aylejbury - I. 271 Ayltjham II. 32 Bagfliot I. 236 Eiikeivell II. cjS i,'.,- I. 287 Bciupton II. 372 Banbury I. 268 Banfk-d I. 82 Barham Downs I. 214 Bathvay I. 287 Barnard' s Cajile II. 169 Barnes I. 90 Barnet I 1 40 Bornjiaple II. 367. Barnwell H. 16 Barton II. 77 Barton II. 204 Bafmgfloke II. 351 Bath II. 311 Battcrfo f. 88 L 223 Bawtry II. 129 B.-chy head I. 225 Beaconsfiela I. 270 II. 48 II. 132 Bedford I. 295 B£.DFO!.;:$E(;&E I. 303, 288 Bedwin II. 287 B r ord TI. 179 Bel ton II. 70 Bemijler II. 338 berealflon II . 371 Bere-regis **. 338 Berkeley Berkhampflead Berhng BERKSHIRE Berry Pomery Berwick Bethnal Green Betley Beverley Beverftone caftle Bewdley Bicefler Biddeford BiggUfwade Billefdon Biljlon Binbroke Binchefter Bingham Birchington Birmingham Bijhop' s- Aukland Bijhof s-cajlle Bijhop's Stortford Bifliop's Tawton Bitford Blackbourn Blackheath Blackwall Blakeney Blandford Black Notley Blechingley Blythe Bocking Bodmin Bolingbroli Bolfover Bolton Bolton Boreham Boroughbridge Bofcaflle Bofcobel Bofeham BoJJiney Bojlm I. II. 278 I. 283 r; 5 2 300, III n. 37 1 II. 176 L 162 II, 244 II. 123 II. 281 II. 255 I. 2b8 H. 365 I. 296 II. 69 II. 50 II. 78 II. 17Z If. 88 I. 205 n. 250 II. 170 11. 220 I. 285 & 37* II. 2-51 11. 203 1. 63 I. 169 n. 35 II- 33° I. 178 i. 81 II. 88 I. 178 II. 382 II. 75 II 97 II. 134 II. 203 I 173 II. 132 n. 390 II. 222 I. 230 n. 3 «4 II. 75 BoJ worth INDEX. Bofivorth II. 69 Burdiflel II. 188 Boum Hi 78 Burford I. 267 Bowe- II. 373 2?«r£^ II. 78 Bowes II. 135 Burgh II. 102 Boxgrcve I. 229 Burgh-caftle II. 53 Boxhill I. 234 Burlington II. 129 Braintree I. 177 Buruham Deepdale II. 35 Brackley II. 58 Burnham Market II. 33 Bradford II. 287 Burnley II. 203 Bradforth II. 129 Burfter-cafile II. 53 Bramber I. 226 Burton, Lincolnjhire II. 76 Brampton II. 186 Burton, Cnmberland II. 193 Brancafter II. 35 Burton upon Trent II 243 Bratton-caftle II. 203 -Sary II. 203 Braughing I. 206 Buxton Wells II. 99 Bray T. 236 By land II. 135 2?r*«/ II. 373 C Brentford I. 24 Caer Caradock II. 222 Brentwood I. 48 Caerdyke II. 59 Brewood II. 244 Caerelon II. 268, 269 Bridgecafterton II. 80 II. 287 Bridgenorth II. 219 Camberwell I. 84 Bridgford II. 91 Cambridge II. 5 Bridgewater II. 318 CAMBRIDGESHIRE Bridport II. 334 H. 3 Brighthelmjlone I. 225 Camelford II. 390 Bristol II. 307 Campden II. 275 Brixham II. 373 Cannons hall I, 36 Bromley, -E^** I. 75 Canterbury I. 202 Bromley, j&rnf I. 75 Cardington I. 294 Bromley Pagets II. 244 Carefbrook-caftle II. 357 Bromfgrove II. 256 Carlisle II. 183 Bromyard II. 265 Cartmel II. 200 Brofeley II. 223 Car&alton I. 80 Brougb II. 194 Caftle-Acre II. 35 Brougham II. 194 Caftle-Camps II. 19 Broughton II. 59 Cajlle -Carey II. 323 Brownfover II. 253 Cattle- Hedingham I. 183 Buckfaftleigh II. 374 Cajlle Rifmg 1. 35 Buckingham I. 271 CaftleTreiyn II. 391 Cafton II. 33 Caftor II. 36 II. 50 Cattarick II. 135 II. 82 Caxton II. 17 II. 186 Cerne Abbey % 338 II. 214 Chard II. 323 II. 50 Chapel in the Frith II. 97 I. 286 a 2 Charley BUCKINGHAMSHIRE I. 301, 130 Buddefdale Bullin^s Bulnefs Bunbury Bungay Bunting ford INDEX. Charley II. Charlton 1. Charlton I. Chatham I. Cbeadle II. Chedder Cliffs II. Chelmsford I. Chelfea I. Cheltenham II. Cheping Ongar I. Chepjl&w II. Cherley II. Chertfey I. Chdhunt I. CHESHIRE II. Chefilhurft I. Chefil Bank II. CheReViN0rthampt0f7JIj.il. Chefter, Northumberland II. Chester II. 208, 203 68 230 198 244. 326 170 146 275 47 268 70 92 157 206 76 339 60 Chefterfield II. Chefterford I. Chefter in the Street II. Chefterton II. Cheviot-hills II. Chichester I. Chegford Jl. Chigwell I. Chunky II. Chingford I. Chippenham Jl. Chipping Norton I. Chipping Warden II. Chiiwick I. Chrift-Church II. ChriJI-Chureh \\. Church Stretton II. Chudleigh II. Cirencejlcr jl. Clapham I. Clare \\. Clarendon Park II. Clay II. Clayhill II. Cley brook II. Qlerbury II. 180 214 96 182 172 16 180 228 374 37 373 37 286 267 60 45 269 352 2S0 37 2 274 84 5i 293 33 293 70 221 Chfton Clithero Cophill Cockermouth Cogglejhall Colchejler Colebrook Dale Colford Collerton Colejhill Colnbrook Colne Columb Magna Columbton Comb Martin Congleton Conington Con ifbo rough Copford Coquet IJland Corby Corfe-cajlle CORNWALL Cofham Coffington Coventry Crakenthorp Cranbourne Cranbrook Cranham Cray ford Crediton Crekelade Crewhrn Cromer Crofcomb Crowland Croydon Crumford Cuckold's Haven Culliton CUMBERLAND D Dagenham Dale-Abbey Dalton Darting hi 133 • 203 X. 264 11. 184 I. 176 I. 18S II. 223 II. 276 II- 7° II. 250 I. 134 II. 203 II- 39° II- 372 II. 3^7 II. 21 f II. 24 II. 132 I. 182 II. 181 II. 78 II- 337 II. 375 II. ?93 II. 7° IL 246 II- i94 II. 33 8 I. 217 I- 5* I- 7 1 II. 369 p. 288 II- 324 II. 32 II. 324 II. 76 I. 79 II. ios II- 133 II. 373 II. 182 I. 52 II. 102 it 203 I. 234 Darling- INDEX Darlington Dartford Dartmoor-forreft Dartmouth Datchet Daventry Deal Debenbam D eddlngton Dedbam Deptford Derby DERBYSHIRE • Dereham Devil's-arfe Devizes DEVONSHIRE Dodbrook Doncafier Dorchefter Dorchejler Dorn Dornford DORSETSHIRE Dovebridge Dove-dale Dover Dover-court Downbam Downs Downton Drayton Droitw'ub Dronfeld Dulverton Dulwich DunmoVJ Dunn'mgton Dunjiable Dunftanburgh-caftle Dunfter Dunwich DURHAM Durham DurJJey E Eaft Burnham II. 169 I. 70 II. 373 II. 364 I. 130 II. 57 t. 211 It, 51 I. 268 I. 187 I- 57 ». 94 n. 93 II. 32 II. 10 1 11. 287 M. 359 11. 32 n. 372 11. 122 I. 269 II. 328 11. 257 11. 24 IT. 327 II. 253 ft. 105 i. 211 I. 101 33 I. 210 n. 288 II. 221 11. 256 11 97 11. 324 1. 77 1. 178 u. 79 I. 289 II. 181 tl 3 2 3 II. 50 II. 165 II. 166 II. 279 I. 132 Eaft Grlmftead Eaft Ham Eaji Harling Eaft Ilfey Eaft Redford Eaft Sheen Ebchefter Ecelejhal Ecclejion Eden Hole Edgehill Edgware Edmonton Egham Egremont Ellejdon Elftree Eltham Ely Enbourne Enfield Epping Epfom Erith EOier ESSEX Eton Ever/hot Evejham Ewel Exeter Exton Eye F Fairford Fairn ljlands Fakenham Falmouth Far bam Farnham Farnham Farrihgdon Fenny Stratford Fcverfoam Find on Flamftead Fleet I. 22f IL 33 1. 241 II. .88 I. 90 II. 172 II. 244 II. 203 II. 99 II. 2 53 I. 141 I. I56 L f u II. i8fr II. 179 I. 141 I. 7 6 II. S I. 239 i. 156 f. 4& 82 70 I. I t 9 I I. 29 8 » 33 I. 130 II. 338 II. 256 I. 82 II. 360 II. 65 II. 50 II. 276 II. 181 n- 33 11. 385 353 L 132 I. 232 t 2 I. G. Gad's Hill I. Gfllns borough II. Gar/rang II. 203 Gait on I. 8r Gcdriej ^ II. 81 Giant's Cattle II. 394 Giglcfvvick II. 133 Gimminolsam II. G'f horrid II. Gifborongh II. Glandford Bridge II. Glaftonbury II. Gloucester II. GLOUCESTERSHIRE II. 270 Godahnln Godmanchefter Godftone 5* *33 89 200 75 Godftow Gold Cliff Goodrich G of port Gotham Greiwpont Grai;tha?n Gravefend Great Dean G> eat Ad at low Great Wakham Greenhithe Greenfted (7 reemvich Grivfoy I. II. I. I II. 35 129 127 79 3*9 273 22,2 24 81 259 269 II. 266 n. 350 11. 11. 11. 1. n. 1 1. 1. 1. 1. 11. 90 389 74 73 2 7 s 269 175 73 48 59 75 Gudelion II. 397 Guilcfborough ' II. 60 Guildford I. 233 Gurnard's Bay II. 358 Hackney I. 161 Hadlcy I. 193 Had ley II. 51 Haddock I. 182 Ha Hat on II. 69 Halldown II. 375 Hale f worth II. 51 Flaliifax II. 116 Hal/lead I. 185 Halton II. 211 Hahwhijlle II. 179 HAMPSHIRE II. 341 H imp/lead I. 29 Haibledovvn I. 202 Harborough II. 68 Harcwood I. 296 Harlaxton II. 80 Harlejlon II. 33 Harrow on the Hill I. 141 Hartland J I. 369 Hartlepool II. 170 Harwich h 188 Haflemere I. 232 Haflingdon \\. 203 Hajlings \. 224 Hatfield I. J 39 Hat her ly \\. 373 Havant II. 353 Haver ill II. 51 Havering at Bower I. 49 Hawkefi)ead ""'II. 201 Headon il. 128 Heddington II. 292 Hedingham Caftle L 183 Hedingham Sible I. 184 HeJmefley IL 1 32 Heljlon II. 384 Hempfied I. 284 Henhault, Foreft of I. 38 Henley upon Thames I. 269 . II. 251 Hereford II. 263 HERE- INDEX.- HEREFORDSHI . 262 Hermitage II. 340 Hertford \. 160 HERTFORDSHIRE h 301, 134 Hexham II. 179 Hexton I. 287 Hcytejbury II. 288 Hiberfton II. 80 Hi Ming II. 33 Higham, Kent I. 200 Higham, Leiceflerjhire II. 69 Higham Ferrers II. 58 Highcrofs II. 252 Highgate I. 30 High JViccomb j. 27 Highway th If. 288 Hil'ingdon I. 134 Hinckley I[. 69 i/iWwi IJ. 288 Hingham II. 34 Hitching I. 287 I. 215 Hoddefdon \. 159 Holbeach I J . 78 Holme JJJe of J. 19 1 /fr/f II. 34 Holy Ifland II. 181 Honiton II. 365 Hook-Norton I. 267 Hornby II. 202 Huthersfield Icklingham Ilchefter Itfordcomh liminjler Ingatffone I. II. 132 Horncaflle Hornfey Horrfey Horfey ) ljle of Horjham Horfted Hculfworthy Howden Hoxton Humington Hungcrford Hunfdou Huntingdon II. 76 I- 31 IP - 129 I. 191 I. 231 II. 35 II- 373 II. 126 I. 154 II. 81 L 239 I. 285 II. 22 Ifleworth Iflingtoa Ivingo Ixworth Jerby J. K. II. II. II. II. L II. I. I. I. II. si 3*9 36S 3^3 174 46 24 150 282 51 II. 186 HUNTINGDONSHIRE II. 21 HurfteCaftle II. 354 Kellington Kelvedon Hatch Kendall Kenelworth Kennington Kenfington KENT I. Kentifh Town Kefwick Kettering Ketton Kew Keyland Keynjham Kidderminjler Kilburne Kilham Kimbolton Kineton King/bridge Kingfclere Kingfland King's Langley Kingjhn upon Hull Kingflon upon Thames Kingfwood Foreft Kinver Kirby Moorfide Kirkby Long/dale Kirkby Steven Kirkby Thore Kirkham 389 39 m *5 141 57 150 ii 5 57 65 12 32* 25 s 29 127 2 3 251 37 2 353 J 55 284 119 95 280 243 130 m 193 194 203 Kirkleci II. i. 11. 11. 1. r. 299, 1. 11. 11. 11. 1. 11. p. iL 1. 11. 11. 11. 11. 11. 1. r, 11. 1. 11. 11. 11. 11. 11. 11. 11. INDEX. Kirklees II. 136 Kirknam II. 205 Brk Ofwald II. 186 Kirk ton II. 79 Knarefiorougb ' II. 127 Knottesford II. 213 Ky nan's Cove H- 395 Xyneton II. 26s L. Lambeth I. 85 Lam born I. 38 Lambourne I. 240 Lamerton II. 373 LANCASHIRE II. 195 Lancajler II. 197 Lanchefter II. 172 Langport II. 322 Latham II. 205 Lavenham II. 5 1 Lavington II. 288 Laughton 31. 132 Launcejhn II. 382 Lea II. 81 Learmouth II. 179 Ledbury H. 265 Lee I. 66 Leeds II. 117 Leek II. 243 Leicefter II. 66 LEICESTERSHIRE II. 66 Leigh II. 293 Leigbton Buzzard I. 289 Leith-hill ■ I. 234 Lemington II. 352 Leominjler II. 264 Lejkard II. 383 Leftwitbie! II. 383 Letehlade II. 278 Levens II. 195 Levington II. 53 Lewes I. 222 Lewifham I. 76 Leyton I. 54 Lidford II. 374 Lime II. 333 Lincoln II. 72 LINCOLNSHIRE II. 71 Linton II. 17 LITCHFIELD II. 239 Littleborough II. 90 Little Chefter II. 102 Little Ilford I. 53 Liverpool II. 199 Loddon II. 34 Longton II. 186 Loughborough IL 68 Loughton H. 40 Louth II. 75 Lowejioff II. 5 r Lndlow II. 218 Luggerjhall II. 288 Luton \. 288 Lutterworth II. 68 Lylborn II. 60 Lynn Regis II. 30 M Macclesfield II. 210 Madern H. 393, 397 Maiden Bradley II. 293 Maidenhead I. 236 Maid/long I. 220 Maiden \. 192 Malmsbury H. 286 Malpas II. 212 Ma It on II. 127 Malvern-hills II. 257 Mam Tor II. 99 Manchejler IL 198 Maningtree I. 188 Mansfield II. 87 Mansfield Wood-houfe II. 90 Margaretting I. 175 Margate I. 206 Market Deeping II. 78 Market Jew \l. 390 Market "Overton IL 65 Market Rafen IL 79 Malborough II. 286 Malborough-doWns II. 294 Marjhfield II. '^78 Maryland II. 134 Martin I. 83 Marwoea INDEX. Marwood II, 169 Majham II. 131 Matlock II. 102 Maxtoke II. 7.52 Med ford H. 53 Melborn II. 102 Melcomb Regis II. 335 Melton II. 68 Mendeljham II. 52 Mendip-hills II. 324 Mere II. 288 Methwold II. 34 MIDDLESEX I. 298, 20 Middleuich II. 212 Midhurjl I. 23 Q Mid/am II. 131 Milbourn Port II. 321 MildenhaU II. 52 Mile End I. 163 Milton, in Kent I. 200 Milton, in Dorfetjbire II. 338 Minching Hampton II. 279 Minehead JI. 321 Minfter I. 205 Miftley Thorn J. 188 Mitcham I. 83 Modbury II. 372 Monk's Rifborough I. 270 Monkton I. 205 Monmouth II. 267 MONMOUTHSHIRE JI. 266 MonfalDale II. 106 Moor, The II. 269 Morefby II. 190 Moreton II. 373 Morpeth II. 179 Mortlake I. 90 Morton in Marjh II. 279 Morva II. 392 Moulton II. 371 Mountforel II. 69 Moufehole II. 390 MufwellHill I. 31 N. Namptwicb II. 210 Nafeby II. 59 Naveftock L 39 Needha?n II. 52 Nefliam II, 171 Newark II. 87 Mew Bftckenham II. 33 Newbury I. 238 Newcajlle II. 177 Newcajlle under Line II. 240 Newent II. 279 New-fbreft - II. 354 Newhaven I. 225 Newingtorv Butts I. 88 Newington Stoke I. 156 Newmarket II. 18 Newnham-Regis II. 253 Newport , Shropjhire II. 220 Newport, Monmouthjh. II. 268 Newport , 0/* Wight II. 356 Newport, Cornwall II. 390 Newport Pagnell I. 281 New Shoreham I. 226 Newftiam- abbey II. 81 Newton, Lancajhire II. 201 Newton, IJle of Wight II. 357 Newton Bujhel II. 373 Neyland II. 52 NORFOLK II. 25 iVor*£ Allerton II. 124 Northampton II. 56 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE II. 54 North Curry II. 324 Northfleet I. 73 North-Foreland I. 214 Northill I. 294 North leech II. 277 North Shields II. 180 NORTHUMBERLAND iVarw Waljham II. 34 Northwicb II. 211 Norwich II. 26 Norwood I. 79 Nottingham II. 85 NOTTINGHAMSHIRE II. 84 Nuneaton II. 251 b Ockley INDEX.- O Ockley Odiham II, Offtari Okeham Okehampton Oldbury Old Sarum Old Windf^ Omby Orford Ormjk'irk Orion Ofweflry Otlcy Oitery Qulney Oundle Overburrow Qxendon Oxenhall Oxenhead Oxford OXFORDSHIRE Padfloiy Painfwicb Pancrafs Parjhore Partington Paunton Petkham Pembridge Pendennis Penhidge Pen Park Hole Penrith II, Penryn Pensford Pen%ance Peterborough Petersfield Peterlham Petworth Pevenfey Peivet, IJle of V 233 353' 354 II- 53 II. 64 If. 369 II. 281 II. 285 I. 130 II. 81 II. 49 II. 202 II. 193 II. 219 II. 13? IJ- 37i I. 281 II. 57 II. 204 II. 59 II. 171 II. 35 I. 242 V 3°3> 242 II. 389 n. 277 I. 149 II. 257 11. 131 11. 80 I. 84 II. 265 n. 402 }|- 243 11. 2H0 185, 189 11. 386 11. 324 11. 389 11. 55 5- 351 1. 19 1. 231 1. 225 1. i 9 i Philip's Norton Pickering Pitchforth Plymouth Plimpton Pocklington Pontefratt Pontepool Pool Pool's Hole Poplar Porchefter-caftle Portland Jjland Port/mouth Poulton Pre/cot Prejlon Prince's Ri (borough Puckle Church Purbeck JJland Putney Ram fey Ravenglafs Reading Readfdale Redburne Redruth Repeham Reudlefham Ribchefter Richmond Richmond Rickmanfworth Ringwood Ripley Rippon Rochdale Rochester Rochford Rockingham Roehampton Romford Rofjc Rothbury Rotheram Roth Will R If? 323 lli 130 II. 223 II. 362 II, 368 II. 131 II. 125 II. 269 II- 33 2 II. 100 I. 169 II. 346 n. 339 II. 346 II. '10% II. 202 II. 200 I. 27O II. 28l II. 34O I. 89 II. 23 II. 185 I- 237 II. 180 I. 284 II- 390 II. 34 II- 53 II. 204 I. *3 II. 125 I. 134 II- 352 II. 130 II. 125 II. 202 i- 194 1. 193 ii. 58 I. 90 i- 51 II. 264 11. 179 11. 130 11. 58 Royjlon i tf o f I Hoyjlon Rugby Rugeley Rumney Rumfey II. 18 ft. 251 II. 243 I. 216 it 352 Runny Mead I. no Rundway Hill II. 292 RUTLANDSHIRE II. 63 Rye I. 223 Ryegaie I. 235 S Saffron Walden I. 180 Salisbury II. 284 Saltafh II. 385 Salt fleet II. 79 Sandbach II. 212 Sancred II. 397 Sandown Caftle II. 357 Sandwich I. 208 Sanghill II. 213 Sarre I. 205 Saver nach-foreft 1 1. 293 Saxmundham II. 52 Scarborough II. 1 22, 134 SciUy, 1 (lands of II. 403 Scriveliby-hall II. 82 Seaforth I. 225 Seaventhale II. 190 Seeching II. 34 Segs-hill II. 71 Selby II. 131 Settle II. 131 Sevenoke I. 22 1 Shaft/bury II. 329 Sharpnor Gaftle II. 357 Sheffield II. 120 Shefford I. 294 Shepton Mallet II. 323 Shipwajh II. 373 Sherborne^ Torkjhire II. 128 Sherborne, Dorfetjhire II. 330 Shields II. 171 Shillingflon II. 338 Shipton upon Stower II. 257 Shooter's Hill I. 67 Shorne I. 199 Shrew/bury II. 216 SHROPSHIRE II. 215 Sidmouth II. 372 Silchefter II. 353 Sithney II. 391 Skiptori II. 130 Sleaford II. 79 Snaith II. 131 Snetham II. 34 Sodbury Chipping II. 277 Soham II. 17 SOMERSETSHIRE II. 305 Somcrton II. 82 Somerton II. 323 South Foreland I. 213 Southampton If. 348 Petherton II. 322 South Weald I. 48 Southwell II. 88 Southwold II. 52 Spalding II. 77 Sperle II. 35 II. 80 Spinney II. 19 Stafford II. 24 r STAFFORDSHIRE II. 237 St. Agathus II. 135 St. Agnes II. 391 5/. y//^/zj I. 136 Stalbridge 1 1. 338 Stamford \\, 74 Stdndon I. 285 Staines I. no Stanley Leonard II. 276 Stanton II. 79 Stanton Dre\tf II. 326 Stapleford I. 39 St.Auflle II. 390 St. Burien H. 390 St. Cleere H. 393 5/. Edmunds Bury H. 48 Stepney I. 166 Stevenage I. 284 St. Faiths II. 35 5/. Germans II. 388 St. Helens II. 357 5/. /