Ulrich Middeldorf ! f I Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/newpocketguidetoOObrad A NEW POCKET GUIDE TO LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS; CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS, PROM PERSONAL KNOWLEDGE, OP EVERYTHING WORTH SEEING OR KNOWING WITHIN TWENTY- FIVE MILES OP THE METROPOLIS.' ENLIVENED WITH BIOGRAPHICAL AND OTHER ANECDOTES, CONNECTED) BY HISTORY OR TRADITION^ WITH THE PLACES DESCRIBED, By JOHN H. BEADY, F.R.A.S. LONDON : JOHN W. PARKEE, WEST STRAND. M.DCCC. XXX VIII. PREFACE. The Autlior s hope tliat this work will be favour- ably received by the public, is founded on the fact, that, approbation has been bestowed on other publications, now not extant, which had objects very similar to those of the present volume. The design of this work is two-fold — to describe, briefly, the great Metropolis itself, and, more copiously, the Towns and Villages around it. The volume commences with an account of the present state of London, which, though in reality only a sketch, will be found to contain much informa- tion derived from authentic sources. Details of a most interesting character have necessarily been compressed within circumscribed limits ; but the Author hopes, that he has not wholly omitted any important particulars, and that his brief description of modern London will be found Sufliciently comprehensive to convey some idea of its magnificence and vast resources. The sketch of London itself, is followed by a topograj^hical account of its Environs. This portion of the volume, in which the towns and villages, seats, &c., are arranged, for convenience B 2 iv PREFACE. of reference, in alphabetical order, is intended to form a guide for the choice of excursions round London. The Author, in order to insure accuracy, has personally visited the principal places in the seven counties within the limits of his work; and he has since laboured most assiduously, to compress the information collected by him within such a compass, as should enable the proprietor to submit it to the public at a reasonable price. Neither labour nor expense has been spared to render the details under each head authentic; yet he is too well aware that, in such a work, perfect accuracy is unattainable, and he must therefore be content, in proof of the pains which he has taken to render his volume as correct and interesting as possible, to refer to the articles — Oxford, Knowle, Windsor, Chiswick-House, Hampton-Court, Gravesend, Hegent s Park, Yauxhall, Dorking, and other places of great public resort. CONTENTS. I. Extent, and Chief Divisions. Page vSituation 9 Divisions 10 Lord Mayor 11 Aldermen 12 Wards 12 Sheriffs 14 City Officers 14 Common Council 15 Wliolesale and Retail 21 Manufactm-es 21 Port of London 21 Number of Ships 22 Annual Consumption of Pro- visions 22 Guildhall 26 Mansion House 29 City Halls 30 iBank of England 30 Excise Office 32 Custom House 33 East India House 34 Royal Exchange 35 Lloyd's Subscription Room . . 36 Post Office 37 Page Extent 11 Rental 11 Government of Westminster 15 Police Offices 15 Magistrates 16 Metropolitan Police 16 Militia 17 Prisons 17 Markets 22 Docks 24 Different Trades 24 Water Companies 25 Gas Companies 25 Insurance Offices 26 Trinity House 39 Mint 40 Tower of London 40 Monument 46 Heralds' College 46 South Sea House 47 Stock Exchange 47 Auction Mart 47 Corn Exchange 48 Coal Exchange 48 II. Government and Police — Prisons. III. Population. Of City 20 I Of Suburbs 20 IV. Trade and Commerce — Docks and Shipping — Markets — Fire, Water, and Gas Companies. V. Public Buildings in the Citv and East End of London. vi COJ^ TEN TS. VI. Places of Public Worship. Page St. Paul's Cathedral 48 Westnnnster Abbey 54 St. Margaret's Church 60 Chapel Royal 60 Whitehall Chapel 60 Wellington Chapel 60 Temple Church 60 Foundling Chapel 61 Magdalen, &c 61 St. Dimstan's, Fleet-street . . 61 St. James's 61 St. Bride's 61 St. Martin's 61 St. George's, Bloomsbury .... 61 St. Andrew's 61 Bow Church 61 St. Stephen's, Walbrook — 62 Page St. Giles's 62 St. George's, Hanover-square (>2 All Souls' 62 Trinity Church 62 Marylebone (i2 St. Pancras 62 St. Catherine's 62 St. Saviour's 63 St. George's, Southwark 63 St. Leonard's 63 St. John the Evangelist 63 St. Mary-le-Strand 63 St. Dunstan's in the East .... 63 St. Giles's, Cripplegate 63 Roman Catholic Chapels 63 Synagogues 63 Dissenters' Burial Ground . . 63 VII. The Thames and its Bridges. The Thames 64 London Bridge 65 Westminster Bridge 67 Blackfriars Bridge 67 Waterloo Bridge 67 Southwark Bridge 63 VIII. Palaces and Parks, &c. Queen's Palace 69 St. James's Palace 70 St. James's Park 71 The Parade 72 Green Park 72 Hyde Park 73 Mansions of the Nobility 74 IX. Public Buildings, &c., at the West End of London. House of Lords 75 House of Commons 76 Somerset House - . . 77 Horse Guards 79 Admiralty 79 Treasiu-y 79 Other Public Offices 80 York Column 80 Exeter Hall 80 Club-Houses 81 Temple Bar 81 X. Westminster Hall and Courts of Law. Westminster Hall 82 | Doctors' Commons 85 XI. Squares and Statues — Bazaars and Arcades, &:c .. 86, 87 CONTENTS. vii XII. Religious and Charitable Societies, Hospitals, &c. Page Foundling , 91 Orphan Asylums 92 Magdalen 93 Deaf and Dumb Asylmii 93 School for the Blind 93 Philanthropic Society 94 Marine Society, &c 94 Page 88 90 90 91 91 XIII. University— Public Schools. London University 95 King's College 9.5 University College 96 Christ's Hospital, or Blue Coat School 96 St. Paul's School 98 Westminster School 98 Charter House 99 Merchant Tailor's School 100 City of London School 1 00 Bell's and Lancaster's Schools 100 XIV. Literary and Scientific Institutions. British Museum 101 National Gallery, and Aca- demy of Arts 107 Soanean Museum 109 Royal Society 110 Royal Institution 110 Royal Society of Literature . .110 British Institution Ill Society of British Artists 111 Society of Painters in Water Colours Ill Antiquarian Society Ill Society of Arts Ill Zoological Society 112 United Service Museum 112 London Institution 112 Russell Institution 112 Western In stitution 112 City of London Literary In- stitution 112 Southwark Literary Institu- tion 112 Mechanics' Institute 112 Gresham Lectures 112 Redcross-street Library 112 Sion College 113 Linnsean Society 113 Geological Society 113 Royal Geographical Societ3^ .113 Royal Asiatic Society 113 Horticultural Society 113 Incorporated Law Society. . . .113 College of Physicians II3 College of Surgeons U3 Apothecaries' Companj'-, &c. 114 Veterinary College 114 Medical Society 114 Medical and Chirurgical So- ciety 114 XV. Theatres — Concerts — Sights of London, Drm-y Lane Theatre 114 Haymarket Theatre 115 Covent Garden Theatre 114 English Opera House 115 Italian Opera House 115 Surrey Theatre 116 viii CONTENTS. Page Victoria Theatre 116 Astley's Amphitheatre 116 Adelphi Theatre 116 St. James's Theatre 116 Olympic Theatre 116 Queen's Theatre 117 Sadler's Wells 117 Concerts 117 Apollonicon 117 Sights of London 117 Page Colosseum 117 Diorama 118 Cosmorama 118 Panorama 118 Linwood's Gallery 118 Tussaiid's Wax Work 118 Surrey Zoological Gardens . .118 Gallery of Practical Science ..118 Polytechnic Institution 118 XVI. Environs of London. 119 A NEW POCKET GUIDE TO LONDON. I. Extent and Chief Divisions. London is situated on the banks of the river Thames, in bV Sr 49^' north latitude, and 5' 37'' west longitude, from the meridian of Greenwich. Its distance from the other capitals of Europe is, from Edinburgh, 395 miles south; from Dublin, 338 miles south-east ; from Amsterdam, 190 miles west ; from Paris, 225 miles north-north- west ; from Copenhagen, 610 miles south-west; from Vienna, 820 miles north-west ; from Madrid, 860 miles north-east by east; from Lisbon, 850 miles north-east; from Rome, 950 miles north-north- west ; from Constantinople, 1660 miles north-east; from Moscow, 1660 miles east-south-east; from Stockholm, 750 miles south-west; from Petersburgh, 1140 miles south-west; and, from Berlin, 540 miles west. The greater part of London stands on high ground ; its soil is sound and dry, and its lower parts are admirably drained. The whole is cleansed and purified by an ample supply of water, obtained from the Thames and the New River. London, collectively considered, comprises the City and its liberties, with the City and liberties of Westminster, the borough of Southwark, and nearly thirty of the con- tiguous villages of Middlesex and Surrey., The greatest portion of the whole is built on the north bank of the Thames, in Middlesex; the southern shore being occu- pied by Southwark, with Lambeth, and several connecting villages, in Surrey. 10 DIVISIONS OF LONDON. Loudon consists of five grand divisions; namely, the West^end of the town, the City, the East-end, Westmin- ster, and the borough of Soutliwark. The west-end is generally considered to extend from Charing-cross to Hyde-park, and from St. James's-park to Paddington. It is the superior and most fashionable part of the town, being the general abode of the court, and occupied by the town-houses of the nobility and gentry, and fashionable shops. The principal thoroughfares in this portion are, Oxford-street, Piccadilly, Regent-street, Bond-street, St. James's-street, and Pail-Mall. The City is the central and most ancient division of the town, and the emporium of trade and commerce; it is occupied by the superb establishments of the East-India, Bank, and other trading companies, and the warehouses, counting-houses, shops, and dwellings, of merchants and tradesmen. The East-end of the town is also devoted to commerce, to ship-building, manufactures, and various collateral branches of merchandise. This division is distinguished by the vast commercial docks and warehouses which have been constructed here within the present century. Part of Westminster must be deemed included in the west-end of the town: here stands Westminster Abbey, and here, also, are the Houses of Lords and Commons, the law courts, the Admiralty, Treasury, Home, Foreign, and Colonial Departments, the Board of Trade, and many other of the public offices. The lower part of Westmin- ster, which may be deemed to extend from W estminster Abbey to Buckingham -gate in one direction, and nearly to Vauxhall-bridge in another, is of a very different cha- racter, and chiefly occupied by humble dwellings, inhabited by small shopkeepers and working people. The southern bank of the Thames, from Deptford to Lambeth, including South wark, bears a great resemblance to the east-end of the town; being occupied by docks, wharfs, and warehouses of persons engaged in commercial and maritime pursuits, with iron-founderies, glass-houses, soap-boilers, boat-builders, shot, and hat manufactories, &c. Southwark itself has one principal street, extending from London-bridge to the Elephant and Castle, chiefly occupied by merchants and shopkeepers. These are the chief divisions of the metropolis; to EXTENT. 11 which may be added, that many improvements have, of late, been made in St. George's-fields, where stands the Betlilem Hospital for lunatics, formerly in Moorfields, with many respectable houses ; and that the northern side of London comprehends a mass of new buildings, between Holborn, Islington, Somers-towu, Mary-le-bone, and Pad- dington. London covers eighteen square miles, and contains 185,000 houses, from four to five stories high, with six to twenty rooms each. In 1830, the total rental of 150,000 liouses, north and south of the Thames, at rents from 10/. to 400/. per annum, was upwards of six millions, and the rental of those below 10/. each would, of course, add greatly to the total. In London, 58; in Westminster, 277; and in Mary-le- bone, 77 houses, are assessed at rentals of 400/. and upwards! In London, 75; in Westminster, 220; and in Mary-le-bone, 164, are assessed at from 300/. to 400/. In all Middlesex there are 419 above 400/. : and 487, from 300/. to 400/. The whole of England and Wales gives but 19 other houses rated at above 400/. ! London pays one-third of the window-duties of all England and Wales^ and {did pay) five-eighths of the house-duties. II. Government and Police. — Prisons. The City and liberty of London are divided into wards and precincts, under a lord mayor, twenty-six aldermen, two sheriffs, 236 common- councilmen, a recorder, a cham- berlain, a common-serjeant, a town-clerk, a water-bailiff, and other subordinate officers. According to the charter of King John, the right of electing the mayor was vested in the citizens at large ; which right was confirmed, in 1475, by a declaratory act of the common-council, by which the election was declared to belong to the mayor, aldermen, and common-council, and the masters, wardens, and liverymen of the City com- panies — in whom it has ever since continued. The Lord Mayor is chosen annually, on Michaelmas- day, at a court of hustings held in the Guildhall, under the presidency of the sheriffs. All the aldermen who have not before been lord mayor, but have served the office of sheriff, are proposed successively; according to 12 LORD MAYOR. their seniority, and two of them are chosen by the livery- men, by show of hands. The sheriffs make a return to the court of aldermen of the two aldermen so chosen, which court declares one of them (generally the first in seniority) to be lord mayor elect. The candidates are not however, bound by the show of hands; they may require a poll, which, if demanded, commences on the day of election, and terminates on the sixth day following. The election must be approved by the crown, or by the lord chancellor on its behalf ; but there is no instance of a veto on the part of the crown since the Revolution. The mayor elect, on the 8th of November, takes the oaths of faithful administration, in the Guildhall ; and, on the 9 th of November, he is installed into office by the barons of the exchequer at Westminster. The pageant, on this occasion, generally called the lord mayor's show^ is too well known to need description. A sumptuous dinner is provided at the Guildhall, which is, generally, graced with the presence of some of the princes of the blood and ministers of the crown, the foreign ambassadors, and a number of the most distinguished nobility and gentry. Besides this, all the city companies have costly entertain- ments at their respective halls. The festivities of the day, at Guildhall, are concluded by a grand ball, at which the lady mayoress presides. The aldermen are chosen for life, by the householders of the several wards, being freemen, paying scot and lot, and an annual rent of not less than 10/. One alderman is elected for each ward (except Bridge-ward-without) ; and, on a vacancy occurring, -the senior alderman is removed to this ward, and a new one e^jected for the ward which he vacates. Each alderman has the active direction or war- denship of the affairs of his ward, under the general super- intendence of the lord mayor; and is assisted by one or more deputies, appointed by himself from among the com- mon-councilmen of the ward. There are twenty-six wards which have aldermen ; they rank in the following order : — I. Farringdon Within comprehends that part of the City which anciently lay immediately within the walls on the western side. Its locality is marked by a small stone ^ monument in Pannier-alley (leading from Newgate-street CITY WARDS. 13 to Paternoster-row), representing a young Bacchus seated astride a pannier or basket, with this inscription : WHEN YE HAVE SOVGHT THE CITY ROVND^ YET STILL THIS IS THE HIGHEST GROVND, AVGVST 27, 1668. II. Farringdon "Without includes that portion of the City which lay without the walls westward. , III. Bridge Ward Within includes the Monument^ and London-bridge from the Southwark end^ with extensive limits. lY. Bishopsgate Ward had formerly a gate, erected by some of the earlier bishops of London. Its boundaries are marked by the appellations Bishopsgate Within and Without, meaning within and without the ancient gate. V. Bread-street Ward, is nearly in the centre of the City, and takes its name from a bread-market, which for- merly stood on the site of the present Bread-street. VI. Cheap Ward, so named from the Saxon chepe, a market, applied to our present Cheapside, which had anciently a market, and was called West Cheap, to dis- tinguish it from another market in East Cheap. VII. VIII. and IX. Tower-street, Broad-street, and Cripplegate Wards, which hold the same rank as the Ward of Cheap. X. Langbourn Ward, so named from a brook formerly running from Fenchurch-street to the Thames. XI. Castle Baynard Ward, so named from an ancient castle which stood on the site of the present Cannon Wharf, and was built by Wiljiam Baynard, a follower of the Norman Conqueror. XII. Billingsgate Ward. XIII. Vintry Ward, comprising part of the north bank of the Thames, where the wines of Bourdeaux were for- merly bottled and sold. XIV. Dowgate Ward, derived from Dwyrgate, the ancient water-gate, supposed to have been the ferry across the Thames from Watling-street. XV. Candlewick Ward, so named from a street in it, now Cannon-street, anciently much occupied by wax and tallow-chandlers. XVI. Cordwainers' Ward, deriving its title from a c 14 CITY WARDS. street in it, now Bow-lane, formerly a great mart for shoe- makers and curriers. XVII. Walbrook Ward, so named from a hrook which entered the Thames by the city imll at Dowgate. XVIII. Aldersgate Ward, which was named from one of the Oldest gates in the city. XIX. Cornhill Ward, so named from a corn-market which anciently stood in St. Michael's churchyard. XX. Aldgate Ward, where one of the gates formerly stood. XXI. Queenhithe W ard, so named from its Jiitlie, or ^ harbour, anciently a principal place for landing and ship- ping goods, and from the custom-duties received here having been assigned by King John to Eleanor, his queen, and her successors in the queenly dignity, for their sepa- rate use. XXII. Coleman-street Ward, which is supposed to derive its appellation from a family of the name of Coleman. XXIII. Portsoken Ward, extending from Aldgate to Whitechapel bars, and from Bishopsgate to the river, and deriving its name from a franchise stated to have been granted by King Edgar to thirteen knights or soldiers in his retinue — the word Portsoken signifying " franchise at the gate." XXIV. Lime-street Ward, which extends into several parishes; but yet has neither a church nor a complete street within it. XXV. Bassishaw Ward, the whole of which is com- prised withm the two precincts of Basinghall-street. The name is supposed to be a corruption of Basinge's-haugh, or hall, a mansion formerly belonging to the family of Basinge. XXVI. Bridge Ward Without, which includes the greater part of the borough of South wark. The two Sheriffs are chosen annually by the livery, not only for the City, but for the County of Middlesex, the same persons being Sheriffs of London and of the county. They are elected annually by the mayor, aldermen, com- mon-councilmen, and livery, and are sworn in at West- minster, on the 30th of September. Common-councilmen are chosen annually by the house- holders, being freemen, in their several wards. The Recorder 1(3 appointed for life, by the lord mayor COMMON COUNCIL, &C. 15 and aldermen. He is the first law-officer of the City, chief councillor to the magistracy, himself a justice of the peace for the City, and in all commissions of Oyer and Terminer. He delivers the sentences of the court, and reads the addresses of the City to the sovereign. The Chamberlain is appointed by the livery, and though chosen annually, usually holds his office for life. The Common Serjeant is elected by the common-council. He is the second law-officer in the City, and generally acts as an assistant to the recorder. It is his duty to attend the lord mayor and court of aldermen, both in council and on court days, on all occasions^ whether within or without the precincts of the City. The Court of Common-council is formed by the lord mayor and aldermen, with the representatives of the several wards. This court frames all the laws for the internal regulation of the City. The lord mayor is the chief magis- trate, and all the aldermen are justices of the peace. The principal courts or offices for the administration of justice in the City, are held at Guildhall, the Mansion-house, and the Old Bailey. At the Town-hall, St. Margaret's-hill, Southwark, a court of record is held weekly by the lord mayor's steward ; there are also quarter-sessions for the borough, by the lord mayor and aldermen ; and an alderman sits here daily to hear matters of police. Westminster is a distinct city, the government of which is vested in the dean and chapter, the civil part being by them committed to laymen. The high steward, generally a nobleman, is the chief officer; and he has an under steward, who officiates for him. There is also a high- bailiff, who is chosen by the dean and chapter of West- minster, and whose duties resemble those of a sheriff. The suburbs of London are regulated by the justices of the peace for Middlesex and Surrey; the former holding their meetings at the Sessions-houso, Clerkenwell, and the latter at the New Sessions-house, Horsemonger-lane. There are in London, considered in the aggregate, eleven offices of police. The chief of these is in Bow-street, Covent-garden, and acts under the immediate direction of the Secretary of State for the Home Department. This establishment consists of three magistrates, who each attend, in rotation, two days in the week. To this office c2 16 POLICE OFFICES. are attached three clerks and nine officers. The other police-offices in London are at Guildhall and the Mansion- house, in the City ; Union-hall, South wark ; Queen-square, Westminster; Great Marlhorough-street, Oxford-street; Hatton-garden ; Worship -street, Shoreditch; Lambeth- street, Whitechapel ; High-street, Mary-le-bone ; and the Thames Police-office, Wapping. In the offices above enumerated, magistrates sit every day, with authority to receive informations concerning breaches of the customs, excise, stamps, and game-laws ; to determine charges relative to hawkers and pedlars, pawnbrokers, friendly and benefit societies, haclmey- coaches, cabriolets, carts and other carriages, refusal to pay tithes, neglect in payment of church, highway, and paro- chial rates; to hear cases of unlawful pawning, and other misdemeanors ; of tradesmen using false weights or mea- sures, of disorderly houses and other nuisances, of gaming- houses and fortune-tellers. They are also empowered to watch over public-houses, to swear in constables, to make orders in parish cases, to administer oaths on all subjects, and to examine and commit for trial persons accused of treason, murder, coining, forgery, housebreaking, and other criminal offences, and to determine all cases tending in any way to a breach of the peace. Two of the police-offices, namely those at Guildhall and the Mansion-house, are regulated by the civic authorities ; the others are under the control of the Government. Each establishment has officers attached to it; independently of which, the Metropolitan or New Police musters now in great force, for the protection of persons and property, by day as well as by night. This force was instituted by an Act brought in by the Right Hon. Sir Robert Peel, (10 Geo. IV., c. 44); was first tried at Westminster, in Sep- tember, 1829; and now extends many miles beyond the metropolis, entirely superseding the old night-watchmen and street-keepers. A board of police, consisting of two commissioners, have the entire control of the force, and are responsible to government for its acts. The expense is defrayed by a tax added to the poor-rates. The new police is divided into companies, each company having a division of a certain district, and each district a station- house. Every division is subdivided into eiglit sections, ;!n(l each section into eight beats, Each company has POLICE OFFICES, 17 one superintendent, four inspectors, sixteen Serjeants, and 144 police constables, and is divided into sixteen parties, each consisting of one Serjeant and nine men. Four Serjeants' parties, or one-fourth of the company, form an inspector's party. The whole is under the command of the superintendent. The collar of each man's coat is marked with a letter, indicating his division, and a number corresponding with his name in the books of the office. The hrst sixteen numbers in each division denote the Serjeants. The police are required to patrol the streets, lanes, &c., of their respective districts; arrest disturbers of the peace, housebreakers, reputed thieves, and beggars ; and preserve good order. They are dressed in blue coats and pantaloons, and at night wear great coats. They are constantly on duty, but more are out during the night than day. The military establishrhent in aid of the police consists, in the City, of two regiments of militia, amounting to 2,200 men. Half of the force may, by an Act of 1794, be placed at the disposal of the king, and marched to any distance, not exceeding twelve miles, from London; the other half must always remain in the City. The rest of the metropolis is protected by three regiments of foot- guards, consisting of about 7^000 men, and two regiments of horse-guards, 1,200 men. PRISONS. The principal Prisons in London, for criminals, are, Newgate, the Giltspur Street Compter, Cold Bath Fields Priso?i, Clerkenivell Prison, the City Bridewell, the Bride^ ivell, Westminster, the Millbank Penitentiary/, the Borough Compter, and Horsemonger Lane, The last two are for Surrey. The principal prisons for debtors are, the Queen'* s Bench, the Fleet, White cross Street, and the Marshalsea (the last-mentioned is of a mixed character). Besides these, there are others belonging to minor courts, and numerous lock-up-houses. It should be mentioned, too, that debtors are still immured in some of the prisons where thieves and felons are confined ; as the Borough Compter, and the Debtors' side of Horsemonger Lane; but the prisoners are classified and differently treated. Newgate was a prison so early as 1218, but being pulled down about a. d. 1777, the present edifice was built. c 3 18 PRISONS. During the riots of 1780, the whole interior of the new building was destroyed, but shortly afterwards it was repaired, at an expense of upwards of 50,000/, The edifice is of stone, its exterior presenting an appearance of gloomy and terror-strildng grandeur, which explains at a glance the purposes to which the dreary-looking pile is devoted. It consists of a centre and two wings; the principal front is on the west, and is of massive rustic-work, broken at intervals by the two entrances, and by niches. The in- terior of the prison is but too well suited for its objects, the ceils for condemned malefactors being dark as the grave itself, and calculated to impress with horror even the most hardened. In the front of Newgate, all the London and Middlesex criminals, finally condemned, suffer the last penalty of the law. The average number of pri- soners in Newgate is estimated at upwards of 400. Giltspur Street Compter is a brick edifice, with a stone front, in Giltspur-street, opposite St. Sepulchre's church. It is confined solely to the City of London, and is a prison for offenders before trial, and a house of correction for such as have been convicted and sentenced to imprison- ment ; it is also used for persons committed for assaults, night charges, &c. Cold Bath Fields Prison is the house of correction for the county of Middlesex, and has a tread-mill capable of employing 320 persons. It is a large insulated brick building, surrounded by a lofty wall, and has spacious and airy grounds attached to it. Clerkenwell Prison was built originally as a bridewell for Middlesex, for offenders to be sent by the justices; it was rebuilt and enlarged about twenty years back, and is now used as a sort of auxiliary to Newgate, including prisoners awaiting the Old Bailey Sessions, those for the Middlesex Sessions, and those committed for re-examina- tion. It will hold about 400 persons. The City BridewelL commonly called Bridewell Hos- pital, is at the back of Bridge-street, Blackfriars, and was once a royal palace. It is used chiefly as a house of cor- rection for dissolute young persons of either sex, especially apprentices. The Bridewell, or House of Correction, Westminster, was entirely rebuilt in 1833, under the direction of Mr. Abraham. The entrance is in Francis-street. 19 The Borough Compter is used by the City magistrates for parts of the Borough district. Horsemonger Lane, Newington Causeway, is the county gaol for Surrey. The place of execution is on the top of the building. It was erected soon after the riots of 1780, The Penitentiary y Millbank, Westminster, consists of several distinct buildings, communicating with each other, and so constructed, that every division can be overlooked from certain points, the whole surrounded by an octangular wall of considerable height, which incloses no less than eighteen acres of ground. The establishment was designed, partly on the plan of Mr, Jeremy Bentham, for the punish- ment, employment, and reformation of secondary turpitude, formerly transported. The prison is fitted up for 400 males, and 400 females, who are punished by labour and solitude, and encouraged to reform by regular habits, classification, a small per-centage on the produce of their work, and religious instruction. The Queen's Bench Prison is in St. George's Fields, and is used chiefly for debtors on process from the Court of Queen's Bench, but also for persons sentenced to imprison- ment for contempt, libels, &c. This prison is spacious, and healthily situated ; it is surrounded by a wall, between thirty and forty feet high, surmounted by chevaux de frise^ and contains 200 rooms, in which upwards of 500 persons have been confined at one time. Prisoners, who can give the necessary security, are permitted, during term-time, to go out from day to day, and others may purchase the privilege of living in a limited district without the walls, denominated the rules of the prison ; they include a space of nearly a mile square. The Fleet Prison is devoted to debtors under process of the Court of Common Pleas, persons committed for con- tempt of the Court of Chancery, and under Exchequer proceedings. It is a brick edifice, with stone staircases and floors, the whole being fire-proof. There is a large court for exercise, surrounded by a wall of great height, with chevaux de frise. The principal building consists of four stories, or floors, with galleries between the rows of rooms, which are most useful for walking in during wet weather. There are rules to this prison, as well as to the Queen's Bench. Whitecross-street Prison, or the New Debtors' Prison 20 POPULATION. for tlie City of London and County of Middlesex, was built in 1813-14, for the express object of preventing debtors from being confined with criminals. It is, however, most inconveniently built, badly situated, and lamentably too small for its purpose. It is calculated to hold 400 pri- soners, but frequently contains double that number, who are separated into different wards, according as they belong to the city or the county. The Marshalsea Prison is at the side of St. George's Church, Southwark. It receives prisoners committed by the Court of Marshalsea, and some others. III. Population. The City of London, in ninety-seven parishes within the walls, was found (at the census of 1831) to contain 57,887 inhabitants; the fourteen parishes without the walls, 67,086 ; the city of Westminster, eleven parishes, 202,080; the borough of Southwark, 91,501; and the other parishes within the bills of mortality, 759,537 ; making a total, within the bills of mortality, according to the census of 1831 .... 1,178,691 Add to this, the population of Mary-le-bone, Pancras, Paddington, Chelsea, and Kensington, 293,567 Total . . 1,472,258 The population of the principal parishes which are joined to London by continuous buildings, is as follows: — Hammersmith .... 10,222 ^ Hampstead .... 8,588 Highgate . • . , . 4,856 Stoke Newington . . . 3,480 Bromley ..... 4,846 Bow ..... 3,371 West Ham and Stratford . . . 11,580 Deptford .... 19,795 Greenwich . • . • . 24,553 Camberwell .... 28,231 Clapham ..... 9,958 129,480 Adding as above . . . 1,472,258 London and its environs, in 1831 . 1,601,738 TRADE AND COMMERCE. 21 IV. Trade and Commerce — The Docks and Shipping — Markets — Fire, Water, and Gas Companies, London, which is the centre of European traffic, and the first commercial city in the world, naturally abounds with every luxury, as well as convenience of life. During the war, our vessels had nearly the whole car- rying trade of Europe, Great Britain being the entrepot of all the products from beyond sea, destined for European use. Hence our imports, in 1811, amounted to upwards of 80,000,000/. sterling, and our exports to more than 77^000,000/. On the return of peace, both diminished considerably ; ceasing to be a channel for distributing the productions of other countries, Britain was thrown back on its own resources, to provide exports by the superiority of its manufactures, and the skill of its inhabitants in working up raw materials, in every variety of form, and giving brilliancy and durability of colour to every diver- sity of texture. The trade of London (like that of all other cities) must be divided into wholesale and retail. The wholesale trade is carried on chiefly in the city, and near the river, where large wharfs, warehouses, and counting-houses are esta- bUshed. The retail trade is dispersed through the most public streets, in all parts of the metropolis, where spa- cious and handsome shops attract the by-passer by a dis- play of the luxuries, as well as the necessaries of life. The manufactures of London are very numerous and considerable ; they consist chiefly of fine goods, and arti- cles of elegant use; as, optical, mathematical, and sur- gical instruments, jewellery of all kinds, japan ware, cut- glass, engravings, books, cabinet-work, upholstery, and carriages. The silk-manufactories of Spitalfields, Shore- ditch, and Bethnal-green, employ many thousands of per- sons, men, women, and children; and vast numbers are engaged in the various branches of watch and clock- making, at Clerkenwell ; coach-builders, and harness- makers, are also very numerous. The ^'port of London," occupied by shipping, extends from London-bridge to Deptford, a distance of nearly four miles, and is, on the average, from four to five hundred yards broad. It consists of four divisions ; the first three called the Upper, Middle, and Lower Pools, and th^ 22 MARKETS. fourth comprising' tlie space between LImehouse and Deptford. The Upper Pool extends from London-bridge to Union Hole, about 1,600 yards; the Middle Pool, from thence to Wapping New Stairs, about 1,700 yards; the Lower Pool, from thence to Horseferry Tier, near Lime- house, 1,800; and the fourth division, from thence to Deptford, about 2,700 yards. The average number of ships in the river and docks, is considered to be about 14,000; besides these, 3,000 barges are employed in lading and unlading ; 2,300 small craft are constantly engaged in the inland trade, and 3,000 wherries for the accommodation of passengers ; 1,200 revenue officers are constantly on duty in different parts of the river ; 4,000 labourers are daily employed in lading and unlading, and 8,000 watennen are connected with the wherries and small craft. The present annual value of the exports and imports of London may be stated, in round numbers, at 60,000,000/. sterling, and the gross annual amount of customs' duties collected in the port is nearly 9,000,000/. The following details of the provision trade are well calculated to excite astonishment. Of animal food, the annual consumption of bullocks, in London, is computed at 160,000; that of sheep, 1,300,000; calves, 20,000; hogs and pigs, 20,000 ; besides poultry, game, and rabbits. Of fish, 120,000 tons are consumed annually; of milk, nearly 8,000,000 of gallons, to supply which, it is esti- mated, 10,000 cows are kept. To supply the metrD- polis with vegetables and fruit, 10,000 acres of ground, near London, are in constant cultivation. The sum paid at market for vegetables, annually, is stated at 645,000/. ; and for fruit, 400,000/. The annual consumption of wheat, in London, is, at least, 900,000 quarters; of coals, 1,200,000 tons ; spirituous liquors and compounds, 11,146.^782 gallons; wine, 65,000 pipes; butter, about 37,700,000, and of cheese, 25,500,000 pounds. The quantity of porter brewed in London, annually, exceeds 1,316,345 barrels, of thirty-six gallons each. There are, in London, upwards of twenty markets for the sale of meat, poultry, butter, eggs, «&:c. ; and about thirty for corn, hay, vegetables, and fruit. Smithfield- market is devoted principally to the sale of live cattle, and is held twice a week, on Monday and Friday. On the MaKKETS. 23 afternoon of Friday there is a sale for horses here, and, on Saturday, a hay and straw-market. Leadenhall- market is famous for skins and leather, and country-killed meat, poultry, and game, fresh butter, eggs, sausages, &c. Newgate-market, for the sale of butcher's meat, poultry, and vegetables, is well supplied. These two markets, with the carcase-butchers at Whitechapel, supply most of the butchers in and round London, The principal market in London for vegetables, fruit, flowers, herbs, seeds, &c., is that of Covent-garden ; and for fish, that of Billingsgate, though the new Hungerford-market, in^ the Strand, has lately received encouragement for the sale of this commodity, the supply of which is, perhaps, more scanty, and the price dearer, than those of any other article of consumption in the metropolis. Billingsgate and Hungerford-markets are supplied chiefly by fishing- smacks and boats, which come from the sea up the Thames, and partly by land-carriage from the different ports in England and parts of Wales. According to the official returns, the following supply of fish was brought into London in a single year: — turbot, 87,950; salmon, 45,446; codfish, 447,130; haddocks, 482,493; herrings, 3,366,407; mackerel, 3,076,700; lobsters, 1,954,600; whitings, 90,604; skate, maids, and plaice, 50,754 bushels; sprats, 60,789 bushels; soles, 8672 bushels; and eels 1500 hundred weight. The Corn-market is holden in Mark-lane, under the title of the Corn-Exchange, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. It is attended, almost exclusively, by dealers. It is the same with the Coal- Exchange, in Thames-street, where, though an open market, the consumers have no chance. Those which we have enumerated are the principal markets in London ; but there are many others, in different parts of the town, especially for meat, poultry, butter, &c., which are equally respectable, though not so exten- sive. Of these we may mention Clare-market, Lincoln's- inn-fields; Oxford-market; the Borough-market; Farring- don (formerly Fleet-market) ; Finsbury-market ; Spital- fields-market ; Portman-market, Paddington ; and Fitzroy- market, Tottenham-court-road. Besides the vast number of markets in the metropolis, three fairs were formerly holden, which, in ancient times, supplied every article of household use. The^e wero Bartholomew-fair, Mo-y-fair, 24 DOCKS. and Southwark-fair. The two latter have long since been abolished ; the former, being held under a charter granted by King Henry II. to the priory of St. Bartholomew, and confirmed by succeeding monarchs, has not been sup- pressed entirely, though its duration, formerly a fortnight, is now reduced to three days. It is chiefly remarkable for riots, raree-shows. Punch's feats, and pocket-picking ; and will, in all probability, die a natural death within a few years, like many of the fairs formerly held in the environs. Intimately connected with the trade and commerce of London, are the docks. These have proved of the most decided service to both the revenue and the trade of the country. Their formation was first induced by the inse- curity of property on the river, in consequence of the daring robberies and plunder continually committed on it. The most important of these closed docks are the East- India, the West-India, the London, and the St. Kathe- rine's-docks ; all of these will be found described in their proper places in the alphabetical portion of this work. Some idea of the enormous extent of the trade of Lon- don, may be formed from the fact that " Pigot's Direc- tory" contains 1,203 columns of trading and professional persons and firms, making a total of nearly 80,000 trading establishments. The several employments are thus clas- sified :— Different Trades, &c. in London. Architects . 270 Chemists and Druggists . 440 Artists 400 Circulating Libraries . 178 Attorneys 2,280 Coachmakers 512 Bakers 1,948 Conveyancers . 105 Banks . 71 Dentists 128 Barristers and Special Engineers 132 Pleaders 1,176 Engravers . 576 Boer-shops 470 Furniture-brokers 704 Bookbinders . 340 Goldsmiths, Jewellers, and Booksellers 716 Lapidaries . 896 Boot and Shoemakers 1,856 Grocers 1,600 Bricklayers (master) . 704 Hotels and Inns 380 Builders . . 320 Hucksters and General Butchers 1,500 Shopkeepers . 2,349 Cabinet-makers and Up- Law Stationers 136 liolsterers . 768 Lightermen . , 190 Carpenters (master) 1,478 Linen-drapers . 704 PUBLIC COMPANIES. 25 Merchants . 1,800 Music-sellers and Instru- ment-makers . 320 Opticians 104 Organ-builders . 25 Pawnbrokers . 288 Physicians . . 230 Picture-dealers, &c, 74 Printers . 480 Proctors and Notaries . 150 Public-houses 4,368 Schools (Girls') 992 Schools (Boys') . 567 Sculptors . . 57 Silk Trades . . 384 SherifFs'-officers . 32 Stationers . . . 630 Stock-brokers . , 327 Surgeons . . 1,411 Surveyors . . 148 Tailors (master) . 2,508 Teachers of Languages 560 Tobacco and Snuff -dealers 704 Watch Trade . . 864 Wine and Spirit-dealers 960 In this list, which is abstracted from Pigot's Direc- tory," there is reason to believe that many of the trades are under-rated, from the fact that the compilers would exclude a vast number of small shops from this collection, as too insignificant for their notice. Booksellers'-shops and libraries, of one kind or another, are, undoubtedly, much more numerous than is here represented, and so are chandlers'-shops, or "hucksters," &c. Yet the details of this list are sufficient for a rough guide. WATER COMPANIES. Nothing has contributed so essentially towards preserv- ing the health of the inhabitants of London, and saving their property from fire, as the abundance of water with which every street is supplied. The principal water com- panies are the New River, the East London, the South London, the West Middlesex (at Hammersmith and Ken- sington), the Chelsea, and the Grand Junction. So effective is the machinery of these water-works, that they can force water into the rooms of any house to the height of 100 feet, if required. The number of houses which are served by the various companies is about 180,000, and the quantity of water annually distributed amongst them is about 70,000 millions of gallons. GAS COMPANIES. Almost the whole of London is now lighted with gas. To supply the requisite quantity, a number of companies have been formed ; the pipes belonging to which extend several hundred miles in length. 26 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. INSURANCE OFFICES. There are, in London, ^ number of wealthy establish- ments for insuring property against fire, for enabling per- sons, by small annual payments, to make provision for their families after their death, for purchasing life-inte- rests, for securing money to children on attaining twenty- one, and for other laudable purposes. Many of these establishments are built in so splendid a style as to be highly ornamental to the metropolis. The County, in Regent-street, was built from designs by Mr. Abrahams ; the Globe, in Cornhill, is a handsome edifice, rebuilt in 1838, by Mr. Hardwicke; the Equitable, in New Bridge-street, Blackfriars, rebuilt in 1829, by Sir R. Smirke ; the Pelican and Phoenix, at Charing Cross, is an elegant building, designed by Gandy ; the British, in the Strand, the Albion, New Bridge-street, the Pelican, Lombard-street, the Union, Cornhill, and the Atlas, Cheapside, are also handsome edifices, V. Public Buildings in the City and East End of London. The principal public buildings, connected with trade and commerce, are the Guildhall, the Mansion-house, the Bank, the Excise-office, the Custom-house, the East India-house, the Royal-exchange, Lloyd's Coffee-house, the New Post- office, the Trinity-house, the Mint, the South-Sea-house, the Stock-exchange, the Auction-mart, the New Corn- exchange, and the Coal-exchange, These are all in the City. THE GUILDHALL, King Street, Cheapside. The foundation of this edifice was laid in 1411, but only the great hall was at that time completed. Other parts were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. At the great fire of London, the whole of the interior with the outer offices, were destroyed, but the walls survived the confla- gration. Within three years afterwards, the interior was restored at an , expense of 3,000/. The building was re- paired about 1710; again in 1780, when it was embellished with its present fa9ade ; and, lastly, in 1814. Some traces of the style of its ancient front, which was remarkable for its richness and grandeur, and adorned with some fine GUILDHALL. 27 statues, may yet be seen in the interior of the present porch. Over the porch, on a panel are the arms of the city, with the motto, " Domine dirige nos." The porch conducts to the Great Hall, which is capable of containing from 6,000 to 7,000 persons. It is 154 feet long, and fifty-two wide ; two magnificent windows, of painted glass, at the east and west ends, diff'dse over the whole a strong but mellowed light ; and, on each side, are clusters of tall columns, with gorgeous capitals, surrounded by a range of double piers, supporting a roof fifty-five feet high. The floor is of stone ; the roof flat, and divided into large panels. At the east-end is a raised platform, enclosed, and surrounded with a panelled wainscoting. This enclosure is set apart for the lord mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, and other principal members of the corporation, at all meetings ; and also serves as a hustings in elections. In the spaces between the clusters of columns, on each side of the hall, are statues. Here is a monument of the celebrated Beckford, lord mayor in 1763 and 1770, in the attitude in which he addressed his Majesty George III., on the 23rd May, 1770, in reply to the king's unfavourable answer to an address, accompanied with a remonstrance, from the city. The words of this speech (now known to have been written by Mr. Horne Tooke), which has been much eulogised, are given in letters of gold, on a black marble tablet. In another compartment, is a splendid monument to the earl of Chatham, by Bacon. The illustrious senator is represented in Roman costume, standing on a rock ; his left hand rests on the helm of state ; his right is placed on the shoulder of Commerce, who is presented to his attention by a female, whose mural crown denotes her the representative of the city of London ; Britannia, with her lion, is in the fore-ground, and near her are four infants, emblematic of the four quarters of the world, emptying into her lap the cornucopia of plenty. On the other side of the hall is a monument, by Bubb, of Mr. Pitt, who is represented in the act of speaking. The sculpture is good, but the attitude of the orator does not harmonise with the surrounding objects. At the north end of the hall is a monumental trophy to the immortal Nelson, executed by Smith. A small profile of the hero is given in the centre, over which a huge D 2 28 GUILDHALL, Britannia is weeping, and around are numerous allegorical devices, which have been much ridiculed. There is an admirable inscription, by Richard Brinsley Sheridan. At the bottom of the hall, near the great western win- dow, elevated on stone columns, stand the celebrated statues of Gog and Magog, each measuring upwards of fourteen feet high. These two figures are supposed to be representatives of an ancient Saxon and Dane ; one holds a long staff, with a ball at the end of it stuck with spikes, and the other a halbert. Both are huge and misshapen, with laurel round their heads, sandals on their feet, sashes round their waists, their bodies painted, and long beards. Which is Gog, and which Magog, is not determined, nor is anything that is certain known of their origin, or why they are named as they are. Mr. Hone, who examined them with great attention, tells us they are made of wood, and hollow, and so substantially built, as to be unfit for being often either carried or drawn. There appear, how- ever, to have been, from time immemorial, similar figures, which were constructed of wicker work, sufficiently light to allow of their being carried in civic processions. It is believed that the present figures were constructed by one Saunders, a train-band captain, about the year 1707. Opposite the hall porch, is a flight of steps leading to separate chambers, appropriated to the lord mayor and aldermen, the common council, the chamberlain, the lord mayor's court, &c. The Common Council Chamber is a large room, with a cupola ceiling, and a lantern light in the centre. A chair for the lord mayor stands at the upper end of the room ; behind which, on a white marble pedestal, is a fine statue of George III., by Chantrey. Directly over the chair, is a large picture of the destruction of the French and Spanish flotilla before Gibraltar, painted by Copley. There are four other pictures on the same subject; also portraits of Queen Caroline, of Lord Heathfield (governor of Gibraltar), and of Nelson, Duncan, and Howe. On the south wall, are the Death of Rizzio, the Miseries of Civil War, from Sliakspeare, and Domestic Happiness, illustrated by fancy portraits of an alderman and his family. On the north wall, is the Death of Wat Tyler ; on the east, the model executed by Banks, for the front of the British Institution, tind two pictures, representing the procession and swear- 20 nig-in of tlie Lord Mayor in 1781. Here also is a portrait of Mr. Pinner, by Opie, and another of the late Chamber- lain Clark, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The Chamberlain's-room contains copies on vellum of the votes of thanks of the City to many of the heroes of Britain, with a portrait, by Sir Joshua Reynolds^ of Mr. Tomkins, who wrote most of the addresses. The Court of Aldermen holds its meetings in the old council chamber, which is well worthy of a particular visit. , The Justice-room adjoins the west front of Guildhall. Here the aldermen sit, in rotation, as justices. On the east side are the Courts of Queen's Bench and Common Pleas, the Irish chamber, &c. All the apartments may be seen for a trifling gratuity to the officer in attendance. The hall is open to strangers. Guildhall boasts of a good library of reference, consist- ing chiefly of rare books and tracts relating to the City and its affairs, founded within these few years. THE MANSION-HOUSE, The official residence of the supreme City magistrate, stands at the east end of the Poultry, on a site formerly occupied by Stocks-market. The building was completed in 1753, Sir Crisp Gascoyne having been the mayor who first resided in it. The edifice is spacious and stately, but of rather heavy aspect. It is built of Portland stone ; a well-designed flight of steps- in front leads to a handsome portico of six fluted Corinthian columns, rising from a massive rustic basement, and surmounted by a pediment, which is adorned with a piece of sculpture, in alto relievo, by Sir Robert Taylor, emblematic of the dignity and opu- lence of the city of London, In the body of the building are two tiers of lofty windows, and above is an attic story, surmounted by a balustrade. The cornices are rich and deep, and supported by Corinthian pilasters. The interior of the Mansion-house is fitted up with much taste and elegance. A spacious saloon, entered from the great door, leads to the Egyptian-hall, a magni- ficent banqueting-room, which occupies the entire width of the house, being sixty feet broad, and ninety feet long. On one side of the saloon is the justice-room, and on the other a handsome private apartment, called Wilkes's par- D 3 30 CITY HALLS. lour, and near these, the sword-bearer's-room. The prin- cipal apartments above stairs are the ball-room, which is about the same length as the Egyptian-hall, but narrower, a drawing-room, and a bed-room provided with a splendid state-bed. CITY HALLS. There 'are ninety-one incorporated guilds^ or companies, within the City of London, of whom upwards of forty have halls of a splendid architectural character. These halls are for the manag«nent of the affairs of the respective companies ; and are also used for feasts, on certain public days. Many of the companies are extremely rich, as the Mercers, Grocers, Drapers, Fishmongers, Goldsmiths, Skinners, Merchant-Tailors, Haberdashers, and Iron- mongers. Ironmongers'-hall is in Fenchurch-street ; Fishmongers'- hall, close to London-bridge, rebuilt by Mr. Roberts, in 1833; Merchant-Tailors' -hall, in Threadneedle-street ; Goldsmith's-hall, in Foster-lane, rebuilt in 1833, in a style of great magnificence, from designs by Mr. Hard- wicke ; Salters'-hall, Swithin's-lane, rebuilt in 1 826 ; Haberdashers'-hall, Maiden-lane; Grocers'-hall, Grocers'- hall-court, Poultry ; Skinners' and Tallow-Chandlers'- halls, Dowgate-hill ; Drapers'-hall, Throgmorton-street ; Mercers'-hall, Cheapside ; Stationers'-hall, Stationers'- court, Ludgate -street ; and Apothecaries'-hall, Blackfriars. All of them are embellished with valuable pictures and portraits, especially portraits of the Lord Mayors of Lon- don, which are generally to be found in the halls of the company to which they belonged. In Stationers'-hall, where a great trade in almanacks is carried on, and m which all new publications must now be registered, is a handsome window of stained glass, presented by the late Alderman Cadell ; and among the pictures, is a fine portrait of Sir William ' Domville, (a member of this company) in the robes he wore, as Lord Mayor, when attending the Prince Regent and the foreign sovereigns, at the grand banquet in Guildhall, in July, 1814. THE BANK OF ENGLAND, Threadneedle Street, Was first erected in 1734, previously to which the busi- ness of that establishment was transacted at Grocers'-hall, BANK OF ENGLAND, 31 The spot on wliioli it stands is the site of the house and i garden of Sir John Houblon, the first governor, in Thread- needle-street ; the buildings occupying the entire area bounded by Threadneedle-street, Princes-street, Lothbury, and Bartholomew-lane. The original edifice, which forms but a small portion of the vast fabric now constituting the Bank of England, was raised under the superintendence of Mr. George Samp- son. This being soon found not sufficiently extensive, wings were added by Sir Robert Ta3dor. In 1788, Soane became the architect, and by him the elegant rotunda was designed and built, and the new wing at the east-end, the elevation of which forms a colonnade of six fluted Corin- thian pillars, connecting two pavilions, but without form- ing a portico. The parapet of the entablature is greatly admired, as is also its frieze, decorated with Corinthian fret-work. The centre of the south front, by Sampson, was of the Ionic order, and eighty feet long ; the two wings, by Taylor, were copied from a building in the Bel- videre-gardens, at Rome ; the north and west fronts, the east wing, and the rotunda, are by Soane, and will remain long-enduring monuments of the purity of his taste, and tlie bold elegance of his designs. This -gentleman also re-modelled, and greatly improved, the portions erected by his predecessors; so that, in short, the whole structure may now be viewed as the work of Soane. The general appearance of the interior of this fabric is highly characteristic of the nature of the establishment, and conveys the idea of wealth and security; but, viewed minutely, a luxuriance of ornament is detected, which by some is thought inappropriate, though it unquestionably relieves the building from the sombre and heavy aspect which it would otherwise possess. The interior is arranged with great skill and judgment. The Rotunda^ where stock-brokers and jobbers assemble to transact their business in the funds, is a fine octagonal room, fifty-seven feet in diameter, crowned by a lofty cupola and lantern. It is provided with desks, pens, ink, &c., for public convenience. The court-room, the pay- hall, the new and elegant saloon, where the dividends are paid, the stock-offices, the apartments for the accommoda- tion of the governors, directors, and cashiers, with the various offices for about 1,000 clerks, are all admirably 32 BANK OF ENGLAND. adapted for the purpose of conducting the business of this vast concern with convenience and order. In the Pay -hall is a marble statue of King William III., by Cheere, and over this apartment is a curious clock, which, by communicating rods, indicates the time in sixteen different offices, thus obviating the inconvenience which might arise, in the transaction of business in the funds, from the variation of several clocks. The greater part of the edifice is of stone, and the vaults, bullion- room, &c., in which bullion, coin, and bank-notes are deposited, with all the new buildings erected by Sir J. Soane, are fire-proof. There is an armoury, a library, an engraving and printing-office, and various other apart- ments, which our limits will not permit us to describe. The court-room is elegantly fitted up, and sumptuously furnished. The Bank was first incorporated by act of parliament, in 1 694. The scheme originated with Mr. James Paterson, a native of Scotland, The corporation are prohibited from trading in goods or merchandize, their capital being confined to the discounting of bills of exchange, buying and selling bullion, and lending money on mortgage of landed property. Hence, and from the remuneration paid them by government for managing the public funds, and receiving the subscriptions on loans, their profits arise. The affairs of the Bank are managed by a governor, deputy -governor, and twenty -four directors, elected annually by the proprietors. The governors and thirteen directors form a court. Any person, during business- hours, may pass through the rotunda, and other public apartments, THE EXCISE OFFICE Is a plain, but handsome building, of large extent, stand- ing on the south side of Broad-street, on the site of the college and alms-houses founded by Sir Thomas Gresham, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It consists of a range ©f buildings in front, of stone, and a structure of brick backward, separated by a court-yard. In this office, the business connected with the receipt of the Excise duties is conducted by a board of commissioners, with numerous clerks and officers. CUSTOM HOUSE. 33 THE CUSTOM HOUSE Is in Lower Thames-street, on ground which is freehold in the crown, adjacent to Billingsgate dock. The original edifice, erected in 1718, was rather eastward of the present; and was burnt down in February, 1814. Before that period, the inconvenience experienced from want of sufficient room, had induced government to determine on the erection of a new building, the first stone of which was laid by the earl of Liverpool, in October, 1813. The building was designed by Mr. David Laing, architect, and undertaken to be built by contract, under his superin- tendence, by Messrs. Miles and Peto, for 165,000/. The actual expense, however, as appears from a parliamentary report, was 255,000/. The new building was opened for public business May 12, 1817; and appeared admirably adapted for the purpose. In 1825, however, the centre failed, and the great room, called the " Long-room," fell in. The consequence of this fatality, attributed by a parliamentary committee to " the fraudulent and scan- dalous manner in which the foundation was laid,'* was an expense of 170,000/. and upwards, in addition to the 255,000/. already incurred ! Mr. Smirke was employed to repair the injury ; and he rebuilt the whole of the central portion of the edifice. The plans of Mr. Laing are entitled to great credit. The exterior is plain and substantial only, yet so vast and justly proportioned as to create an impression of grandeur as well as of solidity ; the interior is admirably adapted for the business of the various departments of this branch of the revenue. The south front, with the east and west sides, are cased with Portland stone; the north front is chiefly of brick. The principal front is towards the river ; it presents three porticoes, each consisting of six columns of the Ionic order. The central portico projects more than the others, and is raised on a sub-basement of five arches, beneath which is the entrance to the warehouses. At the top of it is a clock. The whole length of the building is 480 feet; its width, is 107 feet. The quay is on the Thames side; it has a substantial embankment with convenient water-stairs at each end. 34 EAST INDIA HOUSE. The Long-room is tlie most striking apartment ; it is 186 feet in length, above sixty feet wide, and fifty high, and is one of the largest rooms in England without support * between the roof and ceiling. The greater part of the building is fire-proof. The whole (superior) business of tlie Customs is now managed by thirteen commissioners, with two assistant- commissioners for Scotland, and two for Ireland, the offices of the three kingdoms having been consolidated within these few years, into a single board of commis- sioners held in London. Attached to this establishment, are upwards of 2,000 clerks and other officers. THE EAST INDIA HOUSE, Where the directors of the East-India Company hold their courts, and transact the chief part of their important affairs, is in Leadenhall-street. Part of this edifice was built in 1726, but this occupied the extent of the present east wing only ; the remainder was executed, from designs by Jepp, in 1798-9. The front is of stone, and is adorned with a central portico, consisting of six fluted Ionic columns, with a rich entablature and pediment ; it is, in fact, crowded with ornaments; the, frieze is sculptured in antique, and the pediment contains an allegorical repre- sentation of George III. protecting the commerce of the company. On the summit is a statue of Britannia ; at the east side a figure of Asia, seated on a dromedary; and, at the west, a personification of Europe. The interior is fitted up in a style at once elegant and convenient. The court-room is spacious and handsome ; here is a fine bas-relief of Britannia, attended by her river-god the Thames, receiving from three female figures the various productions of the East, The committee- room, and the old and new sale-rooms, are each interesting, and contain some statues, portraits, and models, of persons and things connected with our East-India possessions. In the eastern wing are the Library and the Museum ; the former rich in Asiatic literature, and containing several fine portraits ; the latter, abounding with curiosi- ties brought from India, including the trophies taken at Seringapatam, particularly the standards of Tippoo Saib, the golden footstool of his throne, his velvet carpet and mantle, and some portions of his armour. ROYAL EXCHANGE. 35 The Museum is open to the public every Saturday. The pubUc-rooms of the India House may be seen daily during office hours, and are worth a visit ; a gratuity to the porter will obtain access to most of the others. THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, Cornliill. The merchants of London, for some centuries, met for the transaction of business in Lombard-street, in which the Lombard Jews, originally the bankers of all Europe, resided. In 1534, Sir Richard Gresham, being agent for Henry VIII. at Antwerp, was struck with the advantages of the Bourse, or Exchange, of that place, and suggested to the king to recommend the mayor and commonalty of London to erect a similar building on part of their manor of Leadenhall. The city, however, did not fflen adopt the scheme. Sir Richard was succeeded by his son. Sir Thomas Gresham, who, in 1564, proposed to the corpora- tion, that if they would procure a central and commodious site for an exchange, he would be at the cost of its erection. This noble offer was met by the corporation with a most liberal spirit; eighty houses, forming two alleys between Cornhill and Threadneedle-street, were immediately purchased and pulled down, and their site was assigned to Sir Thomas Gresham for the erection of the proposed exchange. On the 7th of June, 1566, the foundation was laid, and the building was wholly com- pleted by November of the following year. It was at first called the Bourse; but Queen Elizabeth having visited it on the 23rd of January, 1570-71, after dining with its public-spirited founder, in Broad-street, orderied it to be proclaimed The Royal Exchange — a title which it has ever since retained. Such was the origin of this public building and of its name. In 1666, it suffered the fate of many other proud fabrics, being reduced to ashes by the great fire of London. Sir Thomas had, by deed, assigned it over, after the death of his lady, to the corporation of London and the Mercers' Company, on condition of maintaining the well- known lectures founded by him, and paying certain annual sums to different hospitals, prisons, and alms-houses. By these trustees, though the funds then in their hands amounted to no more than 234/, ds, 2d, the re-building 30 EOYAL EXCHANGE. of the Exchange was nobly resolved on ; and it was completed, in a style very similar to that of the original, but with superior approaches, on the 28th of September 16(59. The expense amounted to nearly 60,000/., which was defrayed in equal proportions by the city corporation and the Mercers' Company. The architect employed was Mr. Edward Jerman, and not, as has been often before stated, Sir C. Wren. Between 1820 and 1826, extensive reparations and improvements were made, under the direction of Mr. G, Smith, the architect of the Mercers' Company. These consisted principally in building a new stone tower on the north front, constructing three new stone staircases, clean- ing the surface of the building, adding new sculptures, &c. The whole expense was about £30,000. The edifice was again destroyed by lire January 10th, 1838. It was 144 feet long by 117 wide, and inclosed by a quadrangle of lofty stone buildings, with a broad piazza inside and outside, except on the east and west sides of the exterior. The principal entrance was by an arched gateway in Cornhill, surmounted by a tower, 178 feet high, having a clock in the upper story, and terminating in a cupola and globe, with a gilt grasshopper (the crest of the Gresham family) as a vane. On the opposite side was another arched gateway, of nearly equal dimensions. The interior of the area was neatly paved with small square Turkey stones, said to have been the gift of a Turkey merchant ; and was divided, as well as the sur- rounding piazza, into what are called walks, to each of which the merchants of some particular nation, or branch of business, were in the habit of resorting. In the centre of the area was a good statue of Charles II. by Spiller; and in niches of the surrounding buildings were statues of most of our other monarchs, from the time of Edward I. In two niches under the piazza, were statues of the great founder of the building, Sir Thomas Gresham, and of Sir John Barnard, another eminent citizen, whose merit as a merchant, a magistrate, and a faithful representative of the city in parliament, his fellow-citizens have thus commemorated. LLOYD'S SUBSCRIPTION COFFEE-HOUSE Formed a portion of the Royal Exchange, but is now POST-OFFICE. 37 situated in the South Sea House, Threadneedle-street. This is the grand mart for maritime insurance, and as such, the place of meeting for under-writers and insurance- brokers. The benefits of this institution in protecting maritime property, its public spirit in remunerating enter- prise, its charitable donations to the widows and orphans of deserving seamen, its extensive influence, and its means of acquiring the most authentic information concerning the shipping interests of the kingdom, are too well known to be here dwelt on. THE POST OFFICE, St. Martin's-le-Grand- This important establishment consists of three branches ; the general, or inland, the foreign, and the twopenny post-offices. The general post-office is by far the most extensive ; the amount of postage on the letters delivered in London from this office only being frequently upwards of 2,500/. in a single morning ! As auxiliaries to this branch of the establishment, there are upwards of sixty receiving-houses in various public parts of the metropolis, which are kept open till five o'clock every day, after which hour, bellmen collect the letters in the different districts for another hour, receiving a fee of one penny for each. At the receiving-liouses in Vere-street, Oxford-street, and Charing-Cross, letters are taken in, to leave London the same evening, until a quarter before seven o'clock ; and in Lombard-street, and St. Martin's-le-Grand, until seven o'clock, without fee, and after seven o'clock (at the Head Office, St. Martin's-le-Grand, only) until half-past seven, on payment of a fee of sixpence for each letter. The principal office for the twopenny post is in St. Martin's-le-Grand, but there are branch offices at Charing- Cross; Vere-street, Oxford-street; Lombard-street; and High-street, Borough ; the receiving-houses are scattered all over the town, and are nearly two hundred in number. Letters to go from one part of the town to another are despatched every two hours, namely, from eight in the morning till eight in the evening, making seven deliveries each day. These deliveries, however, only apply to dis- tances within a circle of three miles round the General Post-office ; beyond which, and within a circle of twelve miles, the postage is threepence. This circle, lately E 38 POST-OFFICE. extended from ten to twelve miles, includes the post towns of Hounslow, Barnet, Edgware, Stanmore, Southall, Waltbam-cross, Romford, Bromley, Footscray, Croydon, and Kingston. The deliveries to places in this larger circle are twice or thrice a day. The foreign department is conducted in the same man- ner as the general post, with a difference as to the days when the letters are made up, and the hours of attendance to receive them. A particular department is devoted to money-letters, another to ship-letters, and a third to news- papers. The latter leave London, every night, in incre- dible numbers, but particularly on Saturdays and Mon- days. They are not received after six o'clock without payment of a halfpenny each paper, nor after half-past six at all ; in the branch offices they must be put in before half-past five o'clock. These particulars will suffice to convey some idea of the system of the post-office. We proceed to describe the building in which the chief part of the multifarious busi- ness of this vast concern is transacted, and the whole regulated. The Post-office is situate in St. Martin's-le- Grand, adjoining Newgate-street. It was commenced in 1818, from designs by Sir R. Smirke, and was completed and opened for public use in 1829. For many years before that period, the entire business was transacted up a narrow court in Lombard-street, which, though central in point of situation, was so wretchedly adapted for its purpose as to liaA^e elicited the following quaint but just remarks : " The post-office is one of the most important establishments in the whole world. It receives informa- tion from all countries ; distributes instructions to the antipodes, and connects together more numerous and distant interests of men than any other institution. It is, in the highest degree hitherto realized, the seat of terrestrial perception and volition — the brain of the whole earth ; and yet hitherto, in London, it has been in a narrow alley, mis-shapen even to deformity, and scarcely accessible to the mail-coaches which collect there for their nightly freights. ' ' The present edifice is handsome, spacious, most com- modiously arranged, and conveniently situate. It is built in the purest style of Grecian architecture, and in sim- plicity and chasteness of design may vie with the finest TRINITY HOUSE. 39 specimens of the Greek school. The front is 390 feet in length, and is embellished with three Ionic porticos ; the centre one projecting, and having six columns, and each of the others four, with straight parapets. In this front are forty-four windows, and in the back, or east front, there are one hundred and eighty. The grand public hall, which is eighty feet long by sixty feet wide, and upwards of fifty in height, is entered by the central portico. Here, letters are received from, and distributed to, all parts of the world. The floor has arched passages communicating with the northern and southern divisions of the building, with a tunnel, through which letters are conveyed by machinery. The hall is divided by rows of columns, and on each side are doors leading to various offices of the establishment. On the first floor are the board-room, the secretary's and the solicitor's offices, and the dead and returned letters departments. The second and third floors are devoted to bed-rooms. Some of these are constantly occupied by servants, and almost all of them on foreign nights, when the clerks of the foreign department sleep here. On the basement are rooms for the guards of the mail-coaches, and for other servants. The whole building is lighted with gas, and heated by steam apparatus. The delivery of the letters to different parts of London is expedited by means of accelerators, which were first used in 1829. These are lightly -built carriages, which convey the postmen and their bags to the beginning of their several walks in the diff'erent parts of the metropolis. The net produce of the revenue arising from the Post- office, for the United Kingdom, is nearly two millions sterling. THE TRINITY HOUSE Is on Tower-hill, and is a handsome building of stone, by Wyatt. Its erection was completed in 1795. It is advantageously situate on rising ground, and has an extensive area in front, called Trinity-square. This corporation was founded in 1515, by Henry VIII., at the instance of Sir Thomas *Spert, comptroller of the navy : it at present consists of a master, four wardens, eight assistant wardens, and eighteen elder brethren, the latter being usually commanders in the royal navy or the 40 MINT. merchants' service. The object of the institution is to superintend the interests of British shipping and mari- time affairs — to examine masters of ships, appoint pilots, erect light-houses and sea-marks, provide ballast, deepen and cleanse the river Thames, &c. &c. The business of the corporation is conducted chiefly at Tower-hill; but their original establishment is at Deptford, where the company have a hospital and alms-houses, which they visit annually, with some ceremony. See Deptford. THE MINT, Formerly in the Tower, is now on Tower-hill, and is a very elegant building, designed by Mr. Smirke, junior. It is of pure Grecian architecture, and combines a modest grandeur with admirable accommodation for business. The business of coining and issuing money is conducted by a master-worker, who has a salary of 3,000/. a year, a deputy, comptrollers, assay-masters, and a number of other officers, whose aggregate salaries exceed 12,000/. a year. Steam-engines, and other mechanical contrivances, are employed to assist in the coinage, and many of the processes are highly interesting. No stranger, however, is allowed to enter the establishment, except by special permission. THE TOWER OF LONDON. The date of the erection of this fortress is supposed to be about the year 1080, when the part called the White Tower was built by William the Conqueror. His suc- cessors, William Rufus and Henry, made considerable additions to the structure ; the former surmounted it with a wall in 1096. The White Tower was repaired and strengthened by Henry III., in 1240; it is a spacious square building, near the centre of the present fortress, having three stories, surmounted with turrets, one of which was formerly used as an observatory by Flamsteed. Between the White Tower and the river, William Rufus laid the foundation of a castle. In the reign of Richard I. a fortified wall of stone was erected, with a deep ditch on the outside. Henry III. added a stone-gate and bulwark, with other buildings, to the west entrance, and whitened the original fortification ; whence it is. thought to have derived its title of the White Tower. That monarch also raised a mud-wall on the western part of Tower-hill, and TOWER OF LONDON. 41 this was afterwards surrounded by one of brick by Edward IV.5 who here built the Lions^ Tower. The ditch was cleansed, and sluices made to admit of its water rising and falling- with the tide, by order of Charles II. ; it has since been repeatedly cleansed and improved. The Store-house was begun by James I., and completed by William III. The interior of the Tower, which occupies a space of about twelve acres, has every appearance of a small town, consisting of various streets, with a church, barracks for military, and long ranges of buildings. The fortifications consist of a citadel, or keep, encompassed by an inner and outer ward, and surrounded by the moat or Tower-ditch, the circumference of which is 3156 feet. There are four entrances; the principal one is over a stone bridge, at the south-west angle of the enclosure, where there was for- merly a large draw-bridge. In addition to the two draw- bridges on the south side, which separate the fortress from the quay, or terrace, on the banks of the Thames, there is also a private entrance by water, under a strong tower, which is called the Traitors' Gate, on account of its being the way by which state prisoners were brought to the Tower. The barbican, which formerly stood beyond the ditch on the west, no longer exists. The entrance to the principal bridge is protected by a strong tower, flanked with bastions; and the fortress is so constructed as to afford many precautions against sudden surprise, or a full capture of the place, even if the outer works should be occupied. From the time that the Tower was first erected, until the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was frequently used as a palace, where the roj^al courts, and even parliaments, were held. Hence all processions and pageants generally pro- ceeded, whether to a tournament or a coronation ; and the kings of England, from the reign of Richard II. to the accession of James II., always proceeded from the Tower to Westminster, in grand procession, to be crowned, with the exception of Charles I., who was prevented by the plague. The principal apartments, formerly used by royalty, were in the inner ward, which was enclosed by a wall of stone, forty feet high, and from nine to twelve feet thick, and protected by thirteen small towers, most of which, and a considerable part of the wall, still remain. e3 42 TOWER OF LONDON. The White Tower, which is the most ancient and the most complete part of the fortress, has two large rooms on the first story, one of which is now used as a repository for cavalry arms, and the other as a tool-house. There are also a vaulted room and a cell, evidently intended for prisons; in one of these. Sir Walter Raleigh is said to have written his "History of the World." On the second floor are two rooms used as armouries, and the apartment, commonly called Csesar's Chapel, from an unfounded notion that it was built by Julius Csesar. This is said to be the most beautiful specimen of Norman architecture now extant in England. This chapel was anciently used by the royal family and household; it is now one of the rooms of the Record-office. The top story has a massive timber roof of great antiquity, and in this story is said to be the council-chamber, in which the duke of Gloucester ordered the execution of Lord Hastings. There is another chapel in the Tower, which is dedi- cated to St. Peter. This building is entirely destitute of beauty, but will ever be interesting as the cemetery of many noble personages who fell victims to the tyranny or jealousy of Henry VIII.: Fisher, bishop of Rochester; the virtuous chancellor, Sir Thomas More ; Anne Boleyn and her brother. Lord Rochford ; Thomas Cromwell, earl of Essex ; Margaret, countess of Salisbury, niece of Ed- ward IV., and the last of the Plantagenets ; and Catherine Howard. In addition to these unfortunates, the Protector Somerset (executed in 1552), and his brother the Admiral; John Dudley, duke of Northumberland ; Fitzgerald, earl of Kildare (who died of a broken heart a short time before his son and five of his brothers were executed on the charge of participating in his treason); Thomas Howard, duke of Norfolk; his son, Philip, earl of Arundel ; Robert Devereux, earl of Essex; the ill-fated James, duke of Monmouth; the three Scottish peers, the Lords Kilmar- nock, Balmerino, and Lovat, who joined in the rebellion of 1745; besides some of the officers of the Tower — all, "after life's fitful fever," here " sleep well." In the lieutenant's house, which is usually occupied by the resident governor, there is a monument recording the gunpowder-plot conspiracy; and, in the chapel, are pre- served the leaden plates originally fixed on the coffins of the three Scottish peers. TOWER OF LONDOK. 43 Besides the White Tower, the ancient chapel, and the church of St. Peter, of which we have spoken, there are, within the walls of the Tower, the Ordnance-office, the Record-office, the Jewel-office, and the Armoury. The Ordnance Office superintends the supply of arms, ammunition, and other warlike stores, for military service. In time of war, there were upwards of 300 clerks in this office, exclusive of messengers and other attendants. The Record Office is in the Wakefield Tower ^ which was named from the confinement here of the prisoners taken at the battle of Wakefield. This office contains the par- liamentary rolls, from the reign of King John to that of Richard III. ; a survey of the manors of England, a regis- ter of the ancient tenures of all the lands, and an ancient perambulation of forests; a collection of charters granted to colleges and corporations; the forms of submission of some Scottish kings; the Book of Common Prayer under the great seal, printed and sanctioned by Charles II., with other state papers and documents of great antiquity and interest. This is the tower in which the persecuted Lollards were confined. The Royal Menagerie was in the Lions' Tower (which is the bulwark built by Edward IV.,) on the right of the principal, or west entrance. The collection of animals has been removed to the Zoological Gardens in the Regent's Park. The Jewel Office appears to have been the place for depositing the regalia from a. d. 1650; it is a stone room near the grand store-house. Before that period, in the reign of Henry III., they were kept in the White Tower. The value of the regalia in the Jewel-ofiice is estimated at two miUions sterling. The most prominent and the most costly article is the new imperial crown. This splendid crown, which is unrivalled in value and elegance, is inclosed in a glass globe, which is made to revolve by some ingenious machinery, invented by Mr. Marsh, the resident officer of the Board of Works in the Tower. By this means the spectators see every part of it, while six powerful argand lamps are so disposed as to throw upon the Jewels every hue that their prisms are capable of exhibiting. In the Jewel-office are four other crowns, and seven sceptres. One of the sceptres, with a dove on it, was dis- 44 TOWER OF LONDON. covered in 1814 behind a part of the old wainscoting, where it must have remained several years. It is thought to have been the sceptre made for Queen Mary, consort of William III. Here, also, are the golden orb^ which the sovereign holds in the right hand at the coronation; the swords of Mercy and of Justice; the large golden salt-cellar y which forms a model of the White Tower; the grand silver font used at the baptism of the royal family, and the banqueting plate used at the coronation feast ; the ampulla, or golden eagle, for holding the con- secrated oil with which the sovereign is anointed, and all the other regalia used at coronations. There are three Armouries exhibited in the Tower — Queen Elizabeths Armoury, the Small Armoury, and the Horse Armoury, Queen Elizabeth'' s Armoury was formerly shown as the Spanish Armoury, as many of the articles it contains were alleged to be spoils of the Armada — but their genuineness was long doubted, and they have recently been ascertained by Dr. Meyrick to have no connexion with that era. The articles are chiefly, if not all, English, some of an earlier date, and some more modern. The targets, with pistols in them, exhibited as Spanish, were in the Tower in the reign of Edward VI.; the pikes shown as Spanish, were common to the English soldiery as well as the Spaniards'; and the glaives, bills, halberds, &c., which principally form this collection, were used in England in the time of Henry VIII. In this room is the axe said to have been used at the execution of Lady Jane Grey, and a repre- sentation of Queen Elizabeth on horseback, in armour, though there is not the slightest reason to believe she ever wore any. In this room is preserved an ancient instru- ment of torture, called the Scavenger'' s Daughter ; this is an iron hoop, jointed together, in which the sufferer was placed with the body doubled up, so that the hoop passed over his back and beneath his knees ; the instrument was then compressed by means of a screw, and the most intolerable pain occasioned thereby. The Small Armoury is exhibited in one of the handsomest rooms in Europe, being nearly 350 feet long, by sixty wide. It contains upwards of 100,000 stand of arms, arranged in a most ingenious and tasteful manner. Here is a piece of ordnance taken in Egypt, of extraordinary dimensions, TOWER OF LONDON. 45 with some other curiosities. This room was commenced by James II., and completed by WilHam and Mary, who entertained their court here with great state. The Horse Armoury was arranged a few years since under the direction of Dr. Meyrick, and the following suits are now exhibited (in a room 150 feet long, erected by Wright, the architect, in 1825), in chronological order: namely, of Edward I., A. d. 1272; Henry VI., 1450; Edward IV., 1465; Henry VII., 1508; Henry VIII., 1520; Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, 1520; Edward Clinton, earl of Lincoln, 1535; Edward VI., 1552; Francis Hastings, earl of Huntingdon, 1555 ; Robert Dudley, earl of I>eicester, 1560 ; Henry Lea, Master of the Armoury, 1570; Robert Devereux, earl of Essex, 1581 ; James I., 1605 ; Sir Horace Vere, Captain General, 1606; Thomas Howard, earl of Arundel, 1608; Henry Prince of Wales, 1612 ; George Villiers, duke of Buck- ingham, 1618; Charles, prince of Wales, 1620; Thomas Went worth, earl of Strafford, 1635 ; Charles I., 1640 ; James II., 1685: together with another suit of Henry VIII., supposed to have been the gift of the emperor of Germany, on his marriage with Catherine of Arragon. Under the elegant room in which the small armoury is kept, is an apartment, supporting the room above it by twenty columns, and appropriated to the Royal Artillery Train. The columns are tastefully hung round with trophies and implements of war. Here some rare and very beautiful specimens of cannon are to be seen. The government of the Tower is vested in a constable, a lieutenant, and other subordinate officers. The opening and shutting of the gates, in the morning and evening, is done with great ceremony, and is almost the only circum- stance that reminds the inhabitants of London that they have a fortress within their walls, regulated by a mihtary government. The warders, who attend at the Tower, and wear the livery of the yeomen of the guard, were appointed to their office by Henry VIII. The king, after residing in the Tower some months on the death of his father, left fifteen of his body guard, and gave them the name of warders ; and afterwards, in consequence of their attention to the Protector, duke of Somerset, when confined there, he procured them the honour of wearing the same livery as the yeomen of the guard. 46 TOWER OF LONDON. The Tower is open for exhibition daily, Sundays ex- cepted, from ten to four. Parties are taken round every half-hour. Armouries, Is,; Jewel-office, 1^.; and 1*. from each party to the warder who accompanies it. There is a pleasant promenade on the parade near the White Tower, which is rendered attractive by the performances here on Sunday afternoons of the band of the garrison. THE MONUMENT Is on Fish-street-hill, on the spot where anciently stood the parish church of St. Margaret. It was built in com- memoration of the great fire of 1666, which commenced at a spot distant eastward from the Monument the exact length of its column — viz., 202 feet. The architect was Sir Christopher Wren, who commenced it in 1671, and completed it within six years. The column is fluted, and of the Doric order ; the diameter of the base is 15 feet ; the height of the shaft 120 feet; the cone of the summit, with its surmounting cippus, or blazing urn, measures forty-two feet ; and the height of the pedestal is forty feet. On the west side of the pedestal is an emblematic repre- sentation, in alto and basso relievo, sculptured by Gibber, of the destruction of the city by fire, with King Charles II., supported by Liberty, Genius, and Science, giving direc- tions for its restoration. Within the column is a flight of 345 steps, leading to an iron balcony, which runs round the top of the capital, and commands an extensive prospect of the metropolis, the Thames, and its shipping, and the country around. The charge for admission is 6d. each person. HERALDS' COLLEGE, Or, the College of Arms, is a spacious brick edifice on St. Bennett's-liill, Doctors' Commons, having an arched gateway in front, leading into a handsome quadrangle. The society is of considerable antiquity, having been in- corporated by Richard III., and consists of thirteen members; viz., th7'ee kings at arms, sia^ heralds at armSy and four pursuivants at arms, all nominated by the Earl Marshal of England, and holding their places, by patent, during good behaviour. Their office is to keep the records of the descent of all the great families of the kingdom, and of all matters be- heualds' college. 47 longing to the same, such as their coats of arms, &c.; — to attend the sovereign upon certain occasions ; — to make proclamations ; — to marshal public processions, &c. One herald and one pursuivant attend the college, daily, in rotation, to answer all questions relative to armorial bear- ings, searching records, &c. At this office all grants of arms for families, south of the Tweed, or for any new corporation, must be obtained. The privilege of granting supporters to new nobility, baronets, or knights of the Bath, belongs to the office of Garter, principal king at arms. The fee for an ordinary search of the records is 5^., and for a general search one guinea ; the fees for a new coat of arms are ten guineas, or more, according to circum- stances. This is also the proper office for registering the birth of children of the nobility, &c. THE SOUTH SEA HOUSE Is a substantial edifice of brick, cased with Portland stone, situate at the east end of Threadneedle-street. The business of this establishment, once so notorious, is now entirely limited to the payment of the South Sea Annuities, derived from a debt of about 20,000,000/. due from Go- vernment to holders of this stock. A portion of the South Sea House is at present appropriated to Lloyd's Subscription Room. THE STOCK EXCHANGE Is in Capel-court, Bartholomew-lane, the site of which was once the residence of Sir William Capel, Lord Mayor in 1504. This edifice was built by subscription in 1801 ; its architecture is not in any respect remarkable, but it is conveniently, if not handsomely, fitted up. No person is allowed to transact business here, unless admitted by ballot. THE AUCTION MART Is in Bartholomews-lane, It was built by subscription about the year 1810, as a central establishment for the sale of property by public auction. The building is not of any architectural importance, but its interior is very commodiously arranged for the purpose for which it is intended. 48 ST. Paul's cathedral. THE CORN EXCHANGE Is in Mark-lane, and built entirely of brick. The centre is a paved quadrangle, skirted by a covered colonnade. This market is public ; but it is frequented chiefly by cornfactors and brokers. THE NEW CORN EXCHANGE, Also situated in Mark-lane, was erected in 1828, under the direction of Mr. Smith, at an expense of 90,000^. It is in the Doric style, and presents a front consisting of six fluted columns, with rectangular wings and thin pilasters at the angles. On the frieze are wreaths of laurel, and above, the royal arms with agricultural imple- ments. THE COAL EXCHANGE, In Lower Thames-street, has a handsome front, with a neat rotunda for the accommodation of the merchants and dealers, who control this market and its prices, to the public prejudice. VI. Places of Public Worship. The religious edifices of the metropolis are numerous and magnificent^ and many of them of great antiquity. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, The noblest of Protestant churches, is situate on an eminence, between Cheapside and Ludgate-street, and, from its majestic dimensions and great height, is conspi- cuous for many miles round London. The present edifice was erected by Sir Christopher Wren, the first stone having been laid in June, 1675 ; and the whole, including the decorations of the interior, completed in 1728. It is built in the form of a cross. An additional transept gives due breadth to the west, or principal front ; the east end has a projecting semicircle ; and, at the extremities of the principal transej^t, are semicircular projections for porticos, the angles of the cross being occupied with square append- ages, serving as buttresses to the dome. The front of the building, on the west, presents a grand portico of the Corinthian and Composite orders, sur- mounted by a spacious pediment, with a lofty tower, ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 49 of great elegance and richness, on each side. In the tympanum, the conversion of St. Paul has been well sculptured in basso-relievo, by Bird ; on the apex is a colossal statue of St. Paul ; and, on either hand, at difterent distances along the summit of this front, are similar statues of St. Peter, St. James, and the four Evangelists. The semicircular porticos, at each end of the principal transept, are of the Corinthian order, and are also crowned by statues of the apostles. The tympa- num of that on the north side, exhibits a sculpture of the royal arms and regalia, supported by angels ; and that of the other, a phoenix rising from the flames (in allusion to the fact that the cathedral was rebuilt after the fire of London, on the original site). The side walls of the building present the appearance of a two-storied structure ; there being two ranges of pilasters all round, one of the Corinthian, and the other of the Composite order ; the intervals between which are occupied with windows. The dome or cupola is the most striking feature of the whole edifice. A plain circular basement rises from the roof of the church to the height of tv/enty feet ; above that, there is a Corinthian colonnade of thirty -two columns ; and every fourth intereolumniation is filled with masonry, so dispersed as to form an ornamental niche or recess, while, at the same time, the projecting buttres- ses of the cupola are thus concealed. The entablature of the peristyle supports a handsome gallery, surrounded with a balustrade. Within this rises an attic story, with pilasters and windows, from the entablature of which springs the exterior dome. Round an aperture on the summit of the dome, there is another gallery, from the centre of which ascends an elegant lantern, surrounded with Corinthian columns, and surmounted by a ball and cross, richly gilt. The great dome is supported by eight stupendous piers, four of the arches formed by which open into the side- aisles ; it is so constructed as to show a spacious concave every way; and, from the lantern at the top, the light descends with admirable effect over the whole, as well as through the great colonnade which encircles its basement. The inside of the dome is divided into compartments, painted with Scripture subjects by Sir James Thornhill ; but now so much faded as to appear but a mass of stains. F 60 ST. Paul's cathedral. The clioir is separated from the body of the church by handsome iron railings. Over its entrance is the organ, which is supposed to be one of the finest in the kingdom ; it was erected in 1694, by Bernard Schmydt, for 2,000/. On the south side of the choir is a throne for the bishop ; on the north a seat for the lord mayor ; and, on each side, a long range of stalls for the clergy, the whole beautifully carved. In the semicircular recess, at the east end, stands the communion table. The altar-piece has four fluted pilasters, and is profusely gilded ; but its appear- ance is not generally admired. The pulpit and reading- desk are both very tastefully designed. The chapel for morning prayers, is at the south end of the western transept ; and, at the north end, is the consistory. Over the arches of the nave and dome, and, in other parts of the building, are displayed various flags, trophies of our wars, many of which were won by our gallant naval admirals — Rodney, Howe, Nelson, Duncan, Keith, and CoUingwood. The monuments and statues in St. Paul's, are about forty in number, and being all of white marble, and generally well situated, they contribute greatly to the em- bellishment of the cathedral, though but few of them approach the perfection of art. Many of the statues are full-length figures, on pedestals, with appropriate inscrip- tions ; as those of Dr. Johnson, Sir William Jones, and Howard, the philanthropist. Others are of a different character, with groups and allegory. Among the most admired may be mentioned those of Abercromby, Howe, Nelson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Rodney, Sir John Moore, Picton, Dundas, Captains Falconer, Hardinge, Westcott, Duff^,and Burgess, Marquess Cornwallis, Colonel Cadogan, Generals Hay, Mackenzie, Langworth, Crawford, Packen- ham, Gibbs, and Mackinnou. But few of the persons, to whom monuments are erected in the cathedral, have been buried here. Among the number, the first who claims our notice is the great architect of the building, Sir Christopher Wren. Descending to the vaults by a broad flight of steps, you see, beneath the south-east window, inscribed on a low tomb, the following simple epitaph : — " Here lies Sir Christopher Wren, knight, builder of this cathedral church of Saint Paul, who died in the year of our Lord, 1723, and of his age 91." ST. Paul's cathedral* 51 ' On the wall, above, there is an additional inscription in Latin, which may be thus translated: — "Beneath lies Christopher Wren, the builder of this church and of this city, who lived upwards of ninety years, not for his own, but for the public good. Reader, wouldst thou search out his monument, look around,''' In these vaults also repose the remains of the immortal Nelson, and of his friend and companion in victory. Lord Collingwood. Here, too, lie interred those eminent masters, Reynolds, Barry, Opie, Fuseli, West, and Law- rence ; the eloquent and sagacious Loughborough ; the learned and pious Dr. Newton, bishop of Bristol ; Dr. Boyce, the organist and composer ; the eccentric disciple of animal magnetism, Mainandot ; Rennie, the engineer ; and a few others of inferior note. After examining the lower part of the cathedral, the visitor may ascend, to view the interior of the dome, and to enjoy the magnificent view of the metropolis, and the country around it, which the outer galleries afford. By a circuitous staircase, he first reaches a gallery which encir- cles the lower part of the dome, and Avhich is called the Whispering Gallery, from the fact that the lowest whisper, breathed against the wall, in any part of this vast circle, may be accurately distinguished by an attentive ear on the opposite side. This gallery is 140 yards in circumference, and has a stone seat all round it, along the wall. Several yards of this seat, at the part facing the door at which the visitors enter, are covered with matting. On being seated here, the man who shows the gallery describes it by whispering close against the wall, at the opposite point of the diameter, and his description is heard as distinctly as though he spoke aloud at the visitor's elbow. Another example is given of the extraordinary effect of reverbera- tion of sound in this gallery, by the man's closing the opposite door, which sends forth a noise like the discharge of cannon. The paintings within the dome are here viewed to the best advantage ; but, even on this nearer inspection, they are scarcely distinguishable. Branching off" from the circular staircase, at the whis- pering-gallery, there are passages which lead to other galleries and chambers over the side aisles. One of these conducts to the library, which is a handsome room, about fifty feet by forty, containing books to the ceiling, ranged F 2 I 52 ST. Paul's cathedral. on shelves. The collection, however, is not deemed of much value. The floor of this apartment is a great curiosity, being wholly constructed of small pieces of oak, without nail or peg, disposed into various geometrical figures, and inlaid, in a style of workmanship peculiarly neat. Over the mantel -piece is a half-length portrait of Bishop Compton*, who bequeathed his books to the library. There are, besides, in this room, some beautifully carved pillars, and some ancient Latin manuscripts, with one manuscript, finely illuminated, containing, in Old English, rules for the government of a convent. Over the morning-prayer chapel is an apartment called the Trophy-room, from being hung round with the shields and banners used at Nelson's funeral. In this room are two models — one being that originally proposed by Wren for the cathedral itself, and the other for the altar-piece. Here is also a fine model of the cornice of the entablature of the temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. The visitor next ascends to the Stone Gallery, sur- rounding the exterior of the dome, above the colonnade. From this elevation, when the weather is fine, the view around is magnificent. As the staircase above this becomes very steep, narrow, and dark, not many visitors can prevail on themselves to go higher; and yet there is much to repay both the trouble and apprehension attending the ascent. In the crown of the dome there is a circular opening, from which the superstructure of the cone and lantern, and cross, rises nearly 100 feet higher. Around the exterior base of the cone there is a railed gallery, called the golden-gallery, from which you have a more extended, and, on account of the increased diminu- tion of individual objects, a more curious view of the busy world beneath. From this point, any one possessing the requisite nerve may ascend, by ladders, into the lantern itself, and, from the buirs-eye-chamher, take a still more extended view around him. He who has reached the buirs-eye-chamber will scarcely hesitate to mount into the hall. This issufii- ciently capacious to contain six persons ; its diameter is six feet two inches, and its weight 5,600Ibs. The cross is solid, and weighs 3,3G01bs. In a sort of observatory, erected at the top of St. Paul's, the ingenious and persevering Mr. T. Hornor ST. Paul's cathedral. 5a passed the whole summer of 1821, in preparing his splendid panorama of London and its environs, afterwards exhibited at the Colosseum, Regent's-park. Tlie visitor, after reaching the whispering-gallery, may visit the geometrical staircase^ which is constructed, with great skill, so as to run round the concave in a spiral direction, its base being a circle, inlaid with black and white marble, in the form of a star. The. towers, on the western front of St. Paul's, serve one as the belfry, and the other as the clock-tower. The great hell, which never tolls except for the death and funerals of members of the ro} al family, of the archbishop of Canterbury, and of the bishops and lord mayors of London, weighs four tons and a quarter. It has inscribed on it, " Richard Phelps made me, 17 16." In the area, before the west front of the cathedral, is a statue of Queen Anne, by Bird, on a sculptured pedestal ; but neither the statue nor its pedestal is much admired. The dimensions of St. Paul's are : — From east to west, within the walls, 510 feet; from north to south, within the doors of the porticos, 282 feet ; its height within, from the centre of the floor to the cross, 340 feet ; ditto, from the vaults below, 404 feet ; the circumference of the dome is 430 feet ; the diameter of the ball six feet ; from the ball to the top of the cross, 30 feet ; the breadth of the west entrance, 100 feet; the diameter of the columns of the porticos, four feet ; the height to the top of the west pediment, under the figure of St. Paul, 120 feet ; the height of the towers of the west front, ] 87 feet ; the circumference of the clock-dial, 57 feet ; the length of the minute-hand, eight feet ; the length of the hour figures, two feet two and a-half inches ; the circumference of the entire building, 2,292 feet. There are two splendid celebrations held annually at this cathedral ; namely, a music -meeting, in May, for the widows and orphans of poor clergymen ; and an assemblage of the children of the parochial schools, in June. Divine service is performed three times every day in the year, at seven o'clock in the morning in summer, and eight in the winter; at a quarter before ten in the forenoon, and a quarter after three in the afternoon. The church is open daily to the public from nine to eleven and from three to four. At all other times none are F 3 54 WEST3IINSTER ABBEY. admitted, except on payment of the prices undermen- tioned : — For admission to the body of the church, 2d. ; to the upper galleries, including the whispering-gallery, 4o?. ; the library, 2d. ; the models and trophy-room, M. ; the geometrical staircase, 2d. ; the great bell, 2d. ; the ball, \s. 6d. each person, besides Is. from each party to the guide ; the vaults. Is. WESTMINSTER ABBEY, Or, the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, was originally founded (says tradition) by Sebert, king of the East Saxons, as a monastery; but the middle of the eighth century is assigned as a more probable date. Under the celebrated Dunstan, the monastery rose into importance, and received from the crown many valuable grants. Edward the Confessor expended a very large sum in rebuilding the church and monastery, to exonerate him- self from a vow taken by him to perform a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. It continued to increase in magnificence through several successive reigns. Henry III., in 1220, laid the foundation of extensive additions to the church, the renovation of which was carried on for many years, until, in October, 1269, the new buildings were opened for public worship, and the remains of Edward the Con- fessor were deposited, with great pomp, in a magnificent shrine at the back of the high altar. In 1502, Henry VII. laid the first stone of the superb chapel, called after his name ; and the abbey received from the same monarch grants of numerous estates. At the dissolution, the abbey and its revenues were resigned to the crown, and the monastery was soon after converted into an episcopal see. In 1550, the see was dissolved, and the diocese annexed to that of London ; but Queen Mary restored the monks, and the abbot of Westminster sat in the first parliament of Elizabeth ; shortly after- wards the church was re-established under a rule similar to that instituted by Henry VIII. In 1629, the building was in a state of lamentable decay, when Dean Williams, not only repaired the abbey at his private cost, but provided it with everything necessary for divine service, supplied it with a library, and added to the number of scholars in the school founded by Queen Elizabeth. During the triumph of the Puritans, the revenues were WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 55 seized, great injury done to the edifice, and tlie usual services of the church were discontinued ; but, at the Restoration, the estabUshment was immediately put upon its original footing, and it has since suffered no reverses from political causes. At the beginning of the eighteenth century. Sir Christo- pher Wren was employed to repair the abbey, with a grant from the House of Commons. The improvements were considerable ; but, in 1 803, a great part of the edifice was destroyed by fire, and restored at the expense of the dean and chapter. Soon after the repairs of the main body of the building were completed, parliament made a grant for the repair of Henry the Seventh's Chapel ; and to the skill and laborious attention emj^loyed in these works, England may ascribe the still existing splendour of this ancient and magnificent edifice. A Latin cross forms the general outline of the original structure ; the cloisters having been afterwards added. The west front consists of a vaulted entrance-porch, and two square towers, 225 feet high. Shields and other sculptured ornaments, a magnificent central window, and the windows of the towers, throw an air of splendour over this front ; yet, in consequence of the blending of the dissimilar styles of Gothic and Grecian architecture, pro- fessional critics discover in it faults indefensible by any rule of their art. The north side presents a long line of turreted but- tresses, pointed arched windows, and some statues. This side of the abbey was for many centuries, as is supposed, the chief entrance ; beneath which, in early days, passed the most magnificent displays of ecclesiastical pomp. Many alterations have here been made ; but its four grand buttresses, curiously and richly ornamented, and its beau- tifully sculptured porch, still claim the highest admiration. This porch has sometimes been styled the Beautiful, or Solomon's Gate. The western porch is also highly ornamented : the great rose-window forms a prominent feature of this side of the edifice. On entering this porch, the spectator is struck with the surpassing beauty of the long-drawn aisles, ex- tending before him in solemn repose, and presenting a succession of noble columns, harmonious arches, and fretted vaults, which blend together with such ease and accord- 56 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. ance, that each appears necessarily to spring from the other. The rich light of the painted windows, and the majestic marble monuments, divide his attention with the architectural graces of the edifice ; and, when he enters the nave, he feels fresh wonder and delight at the con- tinued richness of the scene. No less magnificent are the north transept, and the western and eastern aisles, which afford an almost unbroken mass of curious sculpture and noble monuments. In the south transept, called the Poet^s Corner^ the choicest genius of the land has received the acknowledg- ment of its w^orth. Among the most interesting monu- ments here is that to the memory of Shakspeare, which is exquisitely sculptured. Here, likewise, are monumental marbles to Chaucer, Spenser, Ben Jonson, Milton, Butler, Dry den, Addison, Prior, Rowe, Gay, Thomson, Handel, Goldsmith, Gray, Garrick, and others but little inferior to them. In the Choir the spectator again finds himself enchanted by the graceful delicacies of architecture and sculpture. The stalls, thirty-four in number, are of oak, covered with purple cloth, and handsomely surmounted with canopies. The sides of the choir are lined with oak, and the arrange- ment of the pulpit, and of the stalls and seats of the Westminster schools, is admirably contrived. In this part of the edifice is a most beautiful piece of mosaic pavement, brought from the Continent in the reign of Henry II L The clioir itself is paved with black and white marble. The screen, which separates the choir from the nave, is exceedingly beautiful. Edward the Confessor^s Chapel is immediately behind the choir ; it contains the tombs of Edward and of other monarchs. The screen, which is regarded as one of the most interesting remains of ancient art, is decorated with a frieze, representing, in elaborate sculpture, the tradi- tionary events of the Confessor's life. The tomb of the monarch is in the centre of the chapel ; around it are the tombs of Henry III., Edward I., Queen Eleanor, Edward III., Queen Philippa, Richard II., and his consort, and Henry V. The Chapel of Henry the Fifth occupies the_east end of the Confessor's, and is believed to have been erected in the reign of Henry VI, Several relics of the monarch's WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 57 warlike achievements are here preserved, among which is the helmet which he is supposed to have worn. On the south side of the chapel is the tomb of Edward III., and east of this, that of Philippa, his consort, and of Richard II., and his queen, Anne. Near the latter is the grave of the unfortunate Thomas of Woodstock ; and, on the north of the screen, that of John de Waltham, who was at once Bishop of Salisbury, Master of the Rolls, and Lord Treasurer. In the chapel is the ancient chair used at the coronation of the sovereigns of England, from the time of Edward the First. The painted windows are of great antiquity, and highly curious as works of art. The glass is of extraordinary thickness, and the figures repre- sented on it, which are nearly seven feet high, are formed of an innumerable variety of small pieces, so cut as to compose, with proper shades of colour, the form and drapery of the characters. Henry the Seventh's Chapel was commenced, as before stated, in 1502 ; and completed in about ten years. The king lived to see it nearly completed, and was buried here. This chapel is most luxuriantly ornamented with sculptured decorations ; the buttress-towers are crested by elegant domes, and enriched with niches and tracery ; the cross- springers are perforated into airy forms, and the very cornices and parapets are charged, even to profusion, with armorial cognizances and knotted foliage. The building consists of a nave, two side aisles, and five small chapels. The vaulting and roof are supported by fourteen octagonal buttress-towers, between which are thirteen lofty windows. The pannels are highly ornamented, and the cornices enriched with basso-relievos of grotesque character. The internal architecture of this superb structure, is thought to be without parallel in Europe. A long range of statues adds grace and animation to the rest of the decorations, while the noble arch which extends over the nave from north to south, forms in itself a splendid object. On each side of the nave are seats formed of oak, and richly sur- mounted. These are now appropriated to the Knights of the Bath, whose swords, crests, and helmets ornament the canopies. But the principal object of admiration here, is the tomb of Henry VII., and his queen. In the north aisle are the monuments of Edward V. and his brother, of Queen Elizabeth, the infant daughters of James I., and of 58 WESTMINSTEU ABBEY. the first Earl and Marquess of Halifax. Here, likewise, is preserved the armour of General Monk. In the south aisle, are the monuments of Mary Queen of Scots, Catherine Lady Walpole, Margaret Beaufort, Countess of Richmond and Derby, mother of Henry VII., George Monk, first Duke of Albemarle, and his son, the second duke. Here also is a monument, on which lies a lady finely robed, the effigy of Margaret Douglas, daughter of Margaret, Queen of Scots, by the Earl of Angus, with seven children bending round the tomb. At the extremity of this aisle is the royal vault, in which the remains of Charles II., William III., and Mary his consort. Queen Anne, and Prince George of Denmark, are deposited. Above, in a wainscot press, is the effigy of Charles II., in wax-work, dressed in the robes he wore at Windsor, at the installa- tion of the Knights of the Garter. In a fine vault, under this chapel, is the burying-place designed for the royal family, erected by George II. This splendid building was beautified, by means of grants made by parliament, from 1809 to 1822. It is 115 feet in length, 80 in breadth, and 86 in height. St, Andrew^ s Chapely and the others which surround the choir, are crowded with monuments. To enumerate all the monuments in the abbey would far exceed our limits. In the south aisle, are those of Dr. South, Dr. Vincent, Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Dr. Watts, General Paoli, Dr. Burney, Thomas Thynne, whose murder in his own carriage is here represented, &c. In the west aisle, are those of Major Andre, whose remains were brouglit from America, and interred here in 1821 ; Sir J. Chardin, Lord Howe, Admiral Tyrrell, Congreve, Sir Thomas Hardy, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Banks, the sculptor. Dr. Mead, Sir Isaac Newton, Lord Stanhope, by Rysbrach, &c. In the north aisle are those of Lord Ligonier, General Wolfe, Pulteney, Earl of Bath, Dr. Arnold, Dr. Croft, Dr. Burney, Mr. Perceval, two Knights Templars, &c. The monument of Mr. Pitt, speaking in his robes as Chancellor of the Exchequer, is over the west door. In the north transept are the monuments of the Earl of Chatham, by Bacon ; Lord Mansfield, by Flaxman ; Sir Eyre Coote, by Banks; Admiral Warren, by Roubiliac; Mr. Horner, by Chantrey ; J. P. Kemble, by Flaxman ; and C. J. Fox, by Westmacott. Here also were buried WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 59 those celebrated orators, the Earl of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, Grattan, and Canning, as well as the Marquis of London- derry, and Wilberforce. St. Erasmuses Chapel contains the tombs of Lords Hunsdon and Exeter, of the time of Elizabeth, with figures of Queen Elizabeth, William and Mary, Lord Chatham, Queen Anne, and Lord Nelson. The Chapel of St. John and St. Michael is adorned with the monument of Lady Nightingale, beautifully executed by Roubiliac, and contains the tombs of Admirals Kem- penfeldt and Pococke. There is also a bust of Dr. Baillie, the phj'sician, by Chantrey. Westminster Abbey is 416 feet in length, and 203 feet in breadth at the transept. The nave is 166 feet in length, thirty-nine in breadth, and 102 in height. The * choir is 156 feet in length, and twenty-eight in breadth. The Cloisters are also filled with monuments. They still present vestiges of monastic life. The door-ways are pointed out, by which the monks proceeded to the refectory. The cloisters are quadrangular, with piazzas towards a court, in which several of the prebendaries have houses. The Chapter House is entered from one side of the clois- ters, through a gothic portal, the mouldings of which are exquisitely carved. The commons of England held their parliaments in this place for nearly two centuries ; but it is now filled with public records. The establishment of the abbey is a College founded by Queen Elizabeth, consisting of a dean and twelve preben- daries, to which is annexed a school for forty scholars, called the Queen's scholars, to be educated for the Uni- versities. Private scholars are also admitted, and many eminent persons have been educated here. To the establishment also belong choristers, singing men, an organist, and twelve almsmen. The abbey is open every day for Divine Service, at ten in the morning, and three in the afternoon, (Sundays in- cluded) on most of which occasions, and always on Sun- days, the fine church service is chaunted by the choir; when also an anthem is sung, morning and afternoon. Prices of Admission. — Poets' Corner, 3c?., other parts of the abbey, I^. The persons who show the abbey are not allowed to demand more than the sums mentioned, although it is usual to give a little more. 60 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. There are in London, besides St. Paul's and Westmin- ster Abbey, upwards of 300 churches devoted to the ser- vice of the established religion, six French, seven Ger- man, two Swiss, two Dutch, seven Welsh, one Bavarian, one Armenian, one Irish, one Russian, one Swedish, three Arian, eleven Unitarian, seventy-seven Baptist, 124 Inde- pendents, six Lady Huntingdon's, fifty-six Methodist, fourteen Presbyterian, four S wedenborgians, eight Quakers, twenty-one Catholic, eleven Jews' Synagogues, two Mora- vian, two Freethinkers, two Deists, three HuntingtonianSj two Irvingites. From this numerous list of the places of worship in the metropolis, we must content ourselves with selecting a few as particularly worthy of the London visitor's attention. *S'^. MargareVsy Westminster^ rebuilt in the time of Edward I., and since frequently repaired. Style, gothic — contains numerous ancient monuments — Sir Walter Raleigh, buried within the walls — monument to Caxton — beautifully painted east window — curious basso relievo at the altar. Chapel Royal ^ St. James'* s Palace. — The Queen attends here when in London — service chaunted — commences at 12, A.M., and 5, p.m. Admittance, 2s. Qd, Whitehall Chapel^ (erected by Inigo Jones, for the banqueting-hall of Whitehall-palace, burnt in 1695). — Ceiling painted by Rubens, and retouched by Cipriani. Charles I. was beheaded, on the 30th of January, 1648-9, in front of this edifice, on a scaffold erected for the occasion, having passed to the scene of death thraugh one of the windows. Wellington Chapel, St. James's Park, was erected in 1837, for the accommodation of the guards on duty about the court, who formerly attended divine service at White- hall chapel. This is a spacious structure, with a handsome portico of four Doric columns. Temple Church. — A fine edifice, originally built by the Knights Templars, in 1185, received additions, as is supposed, by the Knights Hospitallers, in 1240 ; and was restored, in 1828, by Sir R. Smirke. The Norman arch at the entrance is much admired. — Monuments of some Knights Templars on the pavement ; other monuments to the learned Plowden, Selden, Thurlow, and other eminent lawyers. This church attended chiefly by pro- CHURCHES AJTD CHAPELS. 61 fessional men. Fine preacher (Mr. Benson), an excellent organist (Mr. Warne). Foundling Hospital. — Preachers popular, good organist, professional singers. Portion of the service chaunted — organ presented by the celebrated Handel — founded in 1739, for the maintenance of exposed and deserted chil- dren. Admission by a small gratuity at the door. Magdalen Hospital also attracts by good preachers, and expects a gratuity at the door. Established in 1758, for reclaiming misguided females ; the inmates of the hospital attend, and some of them sing pleasingly ; but they are hidden from the congregation. Asylum for Female Orphans^ for the reception of female orphan children. Ecclesiastical duty ably performed. — A small donation expected. Philanthropic Society^ s Chapel. — Duty ably performed. Visitors expected to contribute to the charity, which was instituted for reclaiming young criminals, and protecting the children of convicted felons. St. Dunstan's New Churchy Fleet-street, built by John Shaw, Esq., in the pointed style — the organist here, the celebrated Adams. St. Jameses, Westminster^ in Piccadilly, one of Sir C. Wren's churches — font very beautiful, with sculpture, by Grinlin Gibbons. St. Bride^Sj Fleet-street, another of Sir C. Wren's — look particularly at the beautiful spire. St. Martin''s, near Charing-cross, built by James Gibbs, in 1726 — portico and spire much admired, and the inte- rior very elegant ; surrounding the church are catacombs, constructed in 1830. St. George's, Bloomsbury, built in 1731 — porch of eight Corinthian pillars, much approved — steeple of a pyramidal form, and on its summit a statue of George I. — entrance south, altar north. St. Andrew's, Holborn, and St. Sepulchre's, Skinner- street, both built by Wren — the interior of both very beautiful. Bow Church, Cheapside, built by Sir C. Wren, in 1673 — chief ornament its spire, rebuilt by Mr. Gwilt, in 1820, on the model of the old one — the vane, a dragon — the Boyle lectures delivered, bishops consecrated, and the Court of Arches holden here. G 62 CHURCHES. SL Stephen* Sy Walbrook, built in 1679, and esteemed, all over the world, as the chef-d^ceuvre of Sir C. W ren, and incomparable for classic chasteness and simplicity. To appreciate this, the interior must be viewed — no gallery — a dome, (with a lantern) supported by arches — roof sus- tained by sixteen Corinthian pillars, eight of which sup- port the dome — altar-piece, (the burial of St. Stephen) is by West. St. Gileses Churchy by Flitcroft. A stately edifice of Portland stone — sculpture over entrance-gate represents the Resurrection. St. George'^Sy Hanover-square, remarkable for its fine portico and steeple. All Souls, Langham -place, Regent-street, is distin- guished by a spire rising to a sharp point — interior spa- cious and handsome — built by Mr. jN'ash, in 1825. Trinity Church, New-road, opposite Norton-street, built by Soane — north and south — portico Grecian — steeple with- out a pediment — and the whole greatly admired. Marylehone New Church, New-road, corner of High- street, built by Hardwicke, in 1817, and considered hand- some, but somewhat theatrical — tower ornamented with figures representing the winds — Corinthian portico, raised on six steps, after the style of the Pantheon at Rome — interior has two galleries, and is highly ornamented — altar- piece of the Nativity, by West. St. Pancras New Church, Euston-square, New-road, designed by Messrs. Inwood, from Athenian examples — catacombs around, for 2,000 coffins, entered by wings, in each of which is a large sarcophagus — the figures represent Caryatides, and appear inappropriate — interior very taste- ful and elegant — without columns, from the galleries to the roof — pulpit and reading-desk made of part of the cele- brated Fairlop oak. St. Pancras Old Church, remarkable for its antiquity, and for the number of remarkable persons buried here, especially of the Catholic persuasion. St. Catharine^s Collegiate Church, Gloucester-gate, Regent's-park, built in 1828, from designs by Poynter, in consequence of the pulling down of the old church near the Tower — a chaste and very elegant specimen of modern gothic — interior of chapel very beautiful, the ceiling, the fine east window, the joinery — no gallery, CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 63 except that for the organ — pulpit, a curious piece of anti- quity, preserved from the ancient church; adjoining the chapel are dwellings for the brethren, sisters, and others of the college. The foundation, which is a charity, consists of one Visitor, {the Queen,) a Master, (Lieut. Gen. Sir Herbert Taylor,) three brethren in priest's orders, three lay-sisters, (single women,) ten bedeswomen, a registrar, a high-bailiff, and some others. SL Saviour^s, Southwark, very ancient and beautiful, and contains a number of remarkable monuments. The " Ladye Chapel," lately restored and beautified, by Gwilt, is particularly deserving of notice — roof divided into nine groined arches, supported by six octangular pillars, in two rows — east and north, are three lancet-shaped windows, forming one large one, divided by slender pillars, and having mouldings with zig-zag ornaments. St. George'' s J Southwark. — Spire handsome — ceiling painted in imitation of relievo, St. Leonard'' Shoreditch, erected by Dance, is esteemed to possess one of the handsomest spires built since the time of Sir C. Wren. St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, built by Mr; Archer, is surmounted by four stone towers. St. Mary-le-Strand, opposite Somerset-house, erected Gibbs, is very richly ornamented on the exterior. St, Dunstaii's in the East, between Tower-street and the Custom-house, is adorned with a beautiful spire erected by Sir C. Wren. St. Giles\ Cripplegate, will ever be memorable as the burial place of Milton ; here is a bust of him by Bacon. The principal Roman Catholic Chapels in London, are one in Moorfields ; one in Spanish-place, Manchester- square ; the Bavarian chapel, Warwick-street, Golden- square ; the Sardinian chapel. Duke-street, Lincoln's-inn-i- fields. The principal Jews' Synagogues in London, are in Aid- gate, Leadenhall-street, Fenchurch-street, Houndsditchj and St. Alban's-place, Regent-street. In the Dissenters^ Burial Ground, Bunhill-fields, lie the remains of John Bunyan ; Mrs. Wesley, the mother of John and Charles Wesley; Dr. Lardner, the autlior of the "Credibility of the Gospel;" Dr. Isaac Watts; Dr. Price ; and Dr. Rees, the editor of the Cyclopsedia* G 2 64 THE THAMES. VII. The Thames and its Bridges. The river Thames takes its rise from a small spring, at a place called Thames' Head, near the village of Coates, about two miles south-west of the town of Cirencester, in Gloucestershire, and thence taking its course eastward, becomes navigable, by means of locks, at Lechlade, where it unites with the river Colne, about 138 miles from Lon- don, and makes its way to the capital, by the city of Oxford, and the towns of Abingdon and Dorchester. At Thame, in Oxfordshire, it is first called Thamis or Thames. It continues its course through Berkshire, Buckingham- shire, Surrey, Middlesex, Essex, and Kent, towards the German Ocean, passing the towns of Wallingford and Reading, and thence flowing through Henley-bridge, by Maidenhead, Windsor, Eton, Staines, Chertsey, Shepper- ton, Hampton, Kingston, Richmond, Isleworth, Brentford, Hammersmith, Putney, Battersea, and Chelsea, till it reaches the metropolis. Ere it arrives at Putney and Battersea, the Thames has received the tributary streams of the Colne, the Wey, the Crane, the Brent, and the Wandle, and become a large and busy stream. At these places, it is crossed by wooden bridges ; at Vauxhall, by a light and tasteful iron bridge ; between that place and the Tower, by five other bridges ; and up the river, beyond Putney, there is a suspension- bridge at Hammersmith, a handsome stone bridge at Kew, another at Richmond, another (built within these few years) at Kingston, a light wooden one at Hampton, a stone one at Chertsey, and another between Shepperton and Walton. There is also a stone bridge at Windsor. After passing the metropolis, the river rolls onward past Deptford, Greenwich, and Gravesend, (see Gravesend, in the alphabetical part of this work, for a brief description of everything worthy of notice between that place and London, on either side of the river) until it reaches the Med way, and with it joins the ocean at the Nore. The breadth of the Thames, in London, is from 800 to 1,500 feet ; at the Nore, it is seven miles broad. Its whole length is upwards of 200 miles ; and its tides, which ebb and flow twice in every twenty-four hours, affect it upwards of eighty miles from the sea. Its-^depth near South wark- bridge at low water is about twelve feet, and at high water LONDON BRIDGE. 65 from twenty-five to thirty feet, when the current is Bwoln by a spring tide. The conservancy of the Thames belongs to the city of London, as far as Staines, westward, and eastward t6 Yendal, or Yentleet, including part of the rivers Medway and Lea. The conservatorship is exercised by the lord mayor for the time being, or his deputy, called the water- bailiff. The lord-mayor holds a court of conservancy eight times a-year, at any place within his jurisdiction on the banks of the river ; a jury, to attend on such court, being summoned from the county in which it is holden. The lord mayor and his officers proceed to the spot in the city state barge, and being usually accompanied by the barges of some of the city companies, with ladies and music, these courts-holding are rendered agreeable aquatic excur* sions. We proceed to the " description of the five London bridges ; the others being noticed under the proper heads of Putney, Richmond, &c, LONDON BRIDGE. The first bridge thrown over the Thames i^etween Lon- don and Southwark appears, from a charter of William the Conqueror to Westminster Abbey, to have been directly opposite St. Botolph's-gate and wharf, and conse- quently in a different place from both the present one and its predecessor. It consisted entirely of timber, and was constructed at the public expense, between the years 993 and 1016. This bridge was burnt in 1136, but not totally destroyed : it was repaired, but decayed so rapidly, thatj in the year 1163, it was taken down, and entirely rebuilt of timber. The expense of keeping it in repair was, however, so great, that in 1176, a new one of stone was begun to be erected. The most active promoter and super- intendent of this building was a priest, called Peter of Colechurch, who was well skilled in architecture, and who has hence acquired the credit of being its founder ; but the King, Henry IL, the archbishop of Canterbury, and several merchants of London, contributed largely to it. The aid granted by Henry II. to the bridge, was in the form of a tax on wool, levied for that purpose ; and hence arose a vulgar tradition, that London-bridge was built on woolpacks. " The bridge was finished in the year 1209. G 3 66 LONDON BRIUGE. Four years after the bridge was finished, it was the scene of a very tragical accident. In the night of the 10th of July, 1213, a fire broke out in South wark, when the bridge became crowded with people, all hastening from the City, either to witness or extinguish the conflagration. The flames, catching St. Mary Overy's church, were, by a strong southerly wind, extended to the Southwark end of the bridge : those who were foremost in the advancing throng endeavoured, but vainly, to fall back from the destroying element ; the multitude on the London side, ignorant of the danger, continued to press unyieldingly forward, and, in this tumultuous conflict, numbers were trampled to death ; others leaped into the river, only to find a watery grave ; while many more perished mise- rably in the flames. Not less than 3,000 lives are stated to have been lost on this occasion. It is supposed that, at this period, the only building on the bridge was a chapel over the centre arch, erected during the reign of King John, and dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, although afterwards a couple of streets extended from end to end. The bridge itself consisted of twenty arches, varying in width from eight to twenty feet, some being semicircular, and others pointed. Its length was 915 feet. There were fortified gate-houses at each end, and a house called the Nonsuch, from its being pinned together with wooden pegs, without a single nail in it. It was on the tower at the Southwark side that the heads of traitors were exposed in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The houses were taken down, a good road and path made, and the bridge substantially repaired, about 1758. The first stone of the present structure was laid on the 15th June, 1825, by the Lord Mayor, in the presence of the late Duke of York, and a numerous concourse of spec- tators, and opened to the public on the 1st August, 1831, in the presence of William IV. and his queen, and a vast assemblage of persons of all ranks. The bridge consists of five arches, and was built from a design made by the late John Rennie, Esq. The span of the centre arch is 152 feet; that of the two next, 140 feet each; and that of the two shore arches, 130 feet each. The roadway on both sides of the river is raised on arches, through some of which streets pass. London-bridge is the greatest thoroughfare across the WATERLOO BRIDGE. 67 Thames. When the South wark-bridge was projected, the directors attended one day in July, 1811, in order to ascertain the extent of this thoroughfare. On that day, 89,640 foot passengers, 769 wagons, 2924 carts and drays, 1,240 coaches, 485 gigs and taxed carts, and 764 horses passed over it. It seems now most surprising that, from the remote period of the first bridge over the Thames between London and Southwark, there should, for many centuries, have been but that single bridge across a mighty stream, along the banks of which the metropolis extended for miles ! Yet, such was the fact. At length, in 1736, great incon- venience being experienced by the inhabitants of West- minster, from the want of a bridge at that end of Xondon, parliament was petitioned for powers to erect one from New Palace-yard to the opposite shore. An act was passed for this purpose, but not without considerable opposition on the part of the City. WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. The first stone of Westminster Bridge was laid on the 29th January, 1738-9, by Henry, Earl of Pembroke. Its length, from wharf to wharf, is 995 feet; and its width forty-two feet. It has nine elliptical arches, the centre one of which is 100 feet wide. The total cost was 389,500/. The architect was a Swiss, of the name of Labelye. BLACKFRIARS' BRIDGE Was erected shortly after that of Westminster It was commenced in 1760, and completed in nine years, under the direction of Mr. Mylne, the architect. The total cost, 260,000/., was, in a long course of years, paid by a toll. The length of this bridge, from Avharf to wharf, is 995 feet ; its width, forty -two feet. It has nine elliptical arches, the centre one being 100 feet wide. This bridge, unlike that of Westminster, rests on piles. WATERLOO BRIDGE, Which connects the Strand with Lambeth, was next built. The original projector of this splendid structure, to behold which the celebrated Canova declared it was " worth a visit from the remotest corner of the earth," was Mr. George Dodd; but, in conseq^uence of some differ- 68 southwArk bridge. ence between that gentleman and the Bridge Company^ the erection of the bridge was entrusted to the late Mr. Rennie. The foundation-stone was laid on old Michael- mas-day, 1811 J and on the 18th June, 1817, the second anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, the glorious result of which its name commemorates, the bridge was opened, with great pomp, by the Prince Regent, attended by the Duke of York, the Duke of Wellington, a long train of persons of the first distinction, and a grand military parade. This structure, one of the noblest of its kind in the world, was, therefore, completed within the short period of six years. Waterloo Bridge consists of nine elliptical arches, each 120 feet span, and thirty-five feet elevation. Its length is 1,242 feet, and it is the same width as Blackfriars. The arches and piers are built of large blocks of granite, with short counter-arches over each pier. The adjust- ment of the equilibrium, throughout the whole structure, is said to be singularly correct ; and one decided superi- ority of this bridge over every other is, that its roadway is perfectly level. The entire works, including the raised approaches on each side, cost a sum exceeding a million sterling ! Half of this sum was subscribed by the Bridge Company among themselves; bat the remainder they were compelled to raise in annuities payable out of the tolls. To collect these, there are toll-houses at each end of the bridge, with metal turn-stiles, so adjusted as to admit one person only at a time, each of which, every time that an individual passes through them, moves some machinery which marks the fact on an index kept in the house under lock and key, so that the number of persons who have passed through can at any time be ascertained. SOUTHWARK BRIDGE Was commenced before that of Waterloo was finished; namely, in September, 1814, and completed in March^ 1819. It was projected by Mr. John Wyatt, but erected, like the bridges of London and Waterloo, under the direc- tion of Rennie. It extends from Queen-street, Cheap- side, to Bankside, Southwark, and consists of three immense arches of cast iron, the span of the centre arch being 240 feet, and of the two side ones 210. The abut- ments are of masonry;, resting on gratings of timber, sup- BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 69 ported by oblique piles. The foundations of the piers are from ten to twelve feet below the bed of the river, and are secured by a flooring of timber placed on piles. The entire length of this stupendous bridge (the weight of the iron in which is stated to be 5,308 tons), is 708 feet, and the total expense was 800,000/. including the avenues. The subscribers of this sum are allowed to receive 10/. per cent, annually on their shares, and the remainder of their receipts for tolls is, by the act of incorporation, to be invested to accumulate until sufficient to pay each pro- prietor double the sum subscribed by him ; after which the bridge is to be free. The Thames Tunnel^ and Vauochall Bridge will be no- ticed hereafter. See Rotherhithe and Vauxhall, VIII. Palaces and Parks, THE QUEEN'S PALACE, St. James's Park, Occupies the site of Buckingham House, which was built by John Sheffield, duke of Buckingham, in 1703, and was afterwards the residence of George III. and his queen. Between 1825 and 1830 the edifice, however, received so many additions and alerations under the direc- tion of Mr. Nash, that it may be considered entirely new. After his death, Mr. Blore was engaged as the architect, and from his designs it received its present form. The principal front forms three sides of a square, en- closing a space about 250 feet in diameter. In the centre is a portico, the lower part in the Doric, and the upper in the Corinthian style, beneath which carriages drive to the principal entrance. Round the sides of the court runs a colonnade of Doric fluted columns, and at each extremity terminating the central front is a pavilion with pediments, containing groups of sculpture. The garden front is a simple elevation of the Corinthian order, resting on a rustic Ionic basement, in front of which is a broad terrace, with steps descending to the gardens. The interior is adorned with great taste. The entrance- hall and vestibule are ornamented with columns of white marble, and the walls are of scagliola. On the ground floor are the queen's private rooms and the library. The grand staircase is of white marble, and leads to the draw- 70 ST. JAMES'S PALACE. ing-rooms and throne-room, which is enriched with basso- relievos, by Bailey, from designs by Stothard. The pic- ture-gallery is a noble room, 164 feet by twenty-eight, extending nearly the whole length of the building. The principal approach to the palace is formed by an arch of white marble, built in imitation of that of Con- stantino, at Rome, and adorned with sculpture by West- macott and Bailey. The entrance to the gardens from Hyde Park-corner is by a triumphal arch, erected in 1828, from designs by Mr. Nash. The gates of bronzed iron work, by Bramah, are much admired. ST. JAMES'S PALACE, The principal town residence of the sovereigns of Eng- land, from A.D. 1695, when Whitehall-palace was de- stroyed by fire, stands on the north side of St. James's- park, and at the south-west-end of Pall-mall, on the site of an hospital for leprous females, founded here prior to the Norman invasion. At the dissolution, this house was surrendered to the crown, and the king (Henry VIII.), " made here," says Holinshed, " a faire mansion and a parke;" in fact, that monarch erected a considerable por- tion of the present edifice. The exterior has little to recommend it ; it is chiefly of red brick, incorporated with the ston^ remains of the ancient hospital. The principal entrance is on the Pall-mall side, through a lofty, venerable-looking gate-house, which opens into a small quadrangular court, with a piazza on its right side. Here visitors are admitted, on payment of a gratuity to the attendant, and, passing up stairs, they first reach the guard-room, which is a gallery formed into an armoury, where the yeomen of the guard attend on state occa- sions. The next room is that, where, when a drawing- room is held, the cards of the visitors are received. The state apartments are on the Park side, and were fitted up in their present elegant form in 1824. They consist of a suite of three rooms, hung with tapestry and a few paintings. The innermost room of the three is the pre- sence-chamber, the other two are draiving-rooms. In the first drawing-room are pictures of Tournay and Lisle, and a portrait of George II. in his robes. In the second are pictures representing the naval engagements of Lord Howe, THE PARKS. 71 and Lord Nelson, at Trafalgar^ as well as a portrait of George III. The drawing rooms are most magnificently fitted up with damask furniture, crimson velvet, gold lace, rich lustres, and superb pier-glasses: but the presence- chamber is even still more splendid ; the sides are of plate- glass, the window-curtains of crimson satin, trimmed with gold and lace. This apartment contains the throne, which is surmounted by a canopy of crimson velvet, trimmed with broad gold lace, and having on it embroidered crowns, and a star in gold. Here, also, are two large pictures, representing the battles of Vittoria and Waterloo. Be- hind this chamber is the queen's closet, where her majesty gives audience to the ministers and others. There are several other apartments in the palace ; among these may be mentioned the old ball-room, now elegantly fitted up as a supper-room, and the queen'*s library, the favourite retreat of Queen Caroline, the consort of George II. THE PARKS. St. James's Park was inclosed and drained by Henry VIII. ; Charles II. greatly improved it — the avenues having been first planted, a canal made, an aviary arranged near the part still called the Bird Cage Walky and the Mall formed, during the reign of that monarch. The mall was then a smooth hollow walk, half a mile in length, bordered by a wooden screen, and bounded at the further end by an iron hoop, for playing a game with a club and ball, the former of which was called a mall; hence the name of this part of the park. Succeeding monarchs allowed the public the privilege of walking here ; and, in 1699, the passage into the park from Spring- gardens was first opened, by permission of William III. The canal was originally 2,800 feet long, by 100 broad ; but, in 1828, when the enclosed part of the park was planted and laid out in lawns, shrubberies, and parterres, the canal was formed into an irregular lake. To these delightful grounds, which are provided with chairs and benches, the public are now admitted from an early hour in the morning until dusk, and the consequence naturally is, that the Mall, once thronged with company, is now comparatively deserted. St. James's-park is of an oblong form, and about two miles in circumference. On the north and south are fine 72 GREEN PARK. rows of stately trees, with spacious walks and carriage roads. Pedestrians are admitted indiscriminately, with some exception as to women with pattens, and men witli barrows and loads ; but no one can ride through the road at the mall side of the park except by special privilege. On the other side is a road leading from Pimlico to Great George-street, Westminster, through which almost every description of vehicle is allowed to pass, except on extra- ordinary occasions. The mall is supplied with benches, at equal distances apart, fixed under the trees. At the east end of the park are seen the back of the Admiralty, the Horse Guards, the Treasury, and the State Paper Office, and at the west extremity the Queen's Palace. On the north side, is Carlton Terrace, an elegant range of buildings on the site of Carlton House, the York Column, and St. James's Palace ; and on the south side, the barracks and chapel for the foot guards. The space between the Horse Guards and the enclosure is called the Parade, Here the foot guards are drawn out daily, between ten and eleven o'clock in the morning, whence they proceed to the Court-yard of St. James's- palace, where their fine band plays for nearly an hour — a spectacle and musical treat which any person may enjoy. On the north side of the parade is a piece of ordnance, of great length, mounted on an English carriage, and ornamented with Egyptian devices ; it was taken by the British army, at Alexandria, in Egypt. Opposite to it is one of the bombs, or mortars, employed by the French to throw shells into Cadiz, and abandoned by them in their retreat after the battle of Salamanca. It was presented to the Prince Regent by the Spanish nation, in 1816. Its bed and carriage, which are of gun-metal, were cast at Woolwich. The Green Park is a continuation of St. James's, from the northern side of which, near the new palace, it extends to Hyde-park. The park is enclosed with iron railings ; the line of communication being a fine ascent, called Constitution-hill, bordered by an excellent "Carriage road. The open space is exceedingly pleasant ; on the east it is skirted by handsome mansions ; and on the north by Piccadilly. At this end is a sheet of water, called the Basin, one of the reservoirs of the Chelsea waterworks, round which is a favourite promenade. Not HYDE PARK. 73 far from tliis is a neat lodge, almost hidden by shrubbery, the residence of the deputy-ranger. Hyde Park is at the western extremity of London, join- ing Knightsbridge on the south, and lying between the great Western and tile Uxbridge roads. It is separated from the Green-park by the width of the road only, at what is called Hyde-park-corner. There are six principal gates by which this park may be entered ; Cumberland- gate, at the end of the Oxford-road, where Tyburn turnpike formerly stood; Grosvenor-gate, Park-lane, Piccadilly; the Screen-gate, Hyde-park-corner, an elegant building erected in 1828, from designs by Mr. D. Burton; the Kensington-gate, at the entrance of the village of Kens- ington, and the Victoria Gate at Bays water. It is separated from Kensington gardens by a wall and sunk fence on the south and east sides. Hyde Park took its name from having been the manor of the Hyde which belonged to the Abbey of Westminster. The entire park comprises about 400 acres, and though of rather a barren aspect, and sadly deficient of trees, it possesses much natural beauty; and in parts, especially towards Kensington-gardens, has some pleasing scenery. In this direction is the Serpentine River, which, though still so called, was formed into a straight canal so long ago as 1730. At its eastern extremity is an artificial cascade, which was made about 1817; on the north are the keeper's lodge and gardens, the establishment of the Humane Society, with every necessary apparatus for the restoration, if possible, of persons apparently drowned, and a powder-mill. Across this river is a bridge, con- structed in 1826, from the designs of the Messrs. Rennie. Hyde Park is open every day in the year, to all ranks of society, from six in the morning till nine at night ; and vehicles of every description are admitted, except hackney and stage carriages and loaded carts. The rides and walks in this park have long been noted for the assemblage of genteel and fashionable people for the benefit of the air. Saturday is a grand day for the select ; but on Sun- days, in particular, the broad footway, from Knightsbridge towards Kensington-gardens, and the spacious grounds around, are crowded with gay and fashionably-dressed persons, with equipages and horses of every description — a practice which has been continued for upwards of two H 74 HYDE PARK. centuries. From four o'clock till half-past five in the afternoon is the choice period for the fashionables, and the time of year at which this assemblage is most interesting is from spring till after the prorogation of parliament. During winter, when the Serpentine happens to be frozen over, vast numbers resort hither, either as skaters or lookers-on ; it is said, that upwards of 6,000 persons have been known to be on the ice at one time. In the year 1814, this park was visited by the greatest multitude of persons ever congregated near London. This was on the occasion of the Regents Ftte and Fair, which had a three-fold origin, being partly in commemoration of the centenary of the accession of the house of Hanover, partly in triumph for the successful termination of the war with France, and partly in honour of the visit to this country of the emperor of jRussia, the king of Prussia, Prince Blucher, and other eminent personages ; the pre- parations, however, were on such an extensive scale, that before they were completed the royal and many other visitors had quitted the kingdom. The fete was begun on the Regent's birth-day (12th of August), and, was cele- brated by the ascension of a balloon, a magnificent display of fire-works, &c., round the Temple of Peace, and from the Pagoda-hridge, formerly in St. James's-park ; the repre- sentation of a sea-fight on the Serpentine, with the blowing-up of a fire-ship, and numerous fire-works from Kensington-gardens. A fair was commenced on the same day, which continued for a whole week, during which every kind of diversion, with shows, booths, swings, E.O. tables, &c., was tolerated. Another fair was held here on the 28th and 29th of June, 1838, on the occasion of the coronation of Queen Victoria. For a description of the Regent's Park, see letter R. MANSIONS OF THE NOBILITY. The principal of these are : — Apeley-house, Piccadilly, the Duke of Wellington's ; Burlington -house, Picca- dilly ; Devonshire-house, Piccadilly, the Duke of Devon- shire ; Chesterfield-house, South Audley-street, the Earl of Chesterfield ; York -house. Stable-yard, Saint James's- palace, the Duke of Sutherland ; the Duke of Norfolk's, St. James's-square ; the Marquess of Westminster's, Upper Grosvenor-street ; the Duke of Northumberland's; HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 75 Charing'-cross ; Earl Sxjencer's, St. James's-place ; Lord Harcourt^s, Cavenclish-square ; the Marquess of Lans- downe's, Berkley - square ; tlie Duke of Rutland's^ Arlington-street, Piccadilly; the Marquess of Hertford, Dorchester-house, Park -lane, besides other residences ; the Earl of Liverpool, Fife -house, Whitehall; the Duke of Bedford, Belgrave-square ; the Duke of Portland, 19, Cavendish-square ; the Duke of Buckingham's, Pall- mall ; the Earl of Hare wood's, Hanover-square ; Lady Dover, Melbourne-house, Whitehall ; the Marquess of Salisbury, 4, Grafton-street, and 20, Arlington-street ; the Marquess of Londonderry, Holderness-house, Park-lane. IX. Public Buildings, &c., at the West End. - The two Houses of Parliament having been recently destroyed by fire, we are precluded from a description of what they are, and can only speak of what they were, and are likely to be. The nobility and gentry who form the English legislative assembly of Lords and Commons, meet at present in apartments fitted up for their temporary accommodation . The Houses of Ldrds and Commons were both within the precincts of the ancient palace of Westminster, which also included Westminster-hall, and the extensive area still called Palace-yard. TLIE HOUSE OF LORDS Was the old Court of Requests. The exterior was of modern Gothic, in imitation of the pointed style. The chamber in which the peers sat, was ornamented with curious tapestry, representing the defeat of the Spanish armada in 1588. It was wrought in Holland, at the expense of the Lord High Admiral of England, (Howard of Effingham,) and cost about 2,000/. The throne (which was, in fact, an elevated arm-chair, carved and gilt, adorned with velvet and embroidery, with a canopy surmounted with the arms of the United Kingdom) stood at the upper end of the chamber. The Lord Chancellor, who is Speaker of the House of Lords, by virtue of his office, and the judges and officers of the house, have sat, from time immemorial, on large woolsacks, (a custom wliich is thought to have arisen from wool having been formerly deemed a staple commodity in England,) covered with H 2 76 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. crimson cloth or baize ; and the peers in general sit, according to their rank, on benches similarly covered. The archbishops of Canterbury and York, dukes and marquesses, sit on the right hand of the throne ; the earls and bishops, on the left ; and the barons on cross benches, in front. This order is strictly observed on all state occasions. THE HOUSE OF COMMONS Was originally a chapel, built by King Stephen, and dedicated to his namesake, the proto-martyr. It was very elegantly rebuilt, and richly ornamented, by Edward III., who endowed it as a collegiate church. Edward VI, granted it for the use of the Commons, and its ancient splendour was then defaced. It was fitted up anew shortly after the union of Great Britain with Ireland, which added 100 members to the representation. The walls were wainscotted to the ceiling. The Speaker's chair, ornamented with gilding, and the royal arms, stood near the west end. Before it, was a table for the clerks of the house. The centre, between the Speaker's chair and the bar, was a spacious area. The seats for the members occupied the sides and ends of the room. There were five rows, rising above each other, with short backs and green morocco cushions. The seat on the floor, to the right of the Speaker, was called the Treasury Bench, because there the members of the administration usually sat ; the opposite seat, was termed the Opposition Bench, because occupied by the leading members of the opposition. On each side were galleries for such members as choose to sit there ; one of which, the eastern gallery, was, by the tacit sanction of the house, always appropriated to visitors, and for the use of the reporters for the public press. The Lobby ^ at the entrance of which Mr. Perceval was shot by Bellingham, communicated, by a beautiful cloister, with the Speaker''s House, situate in a small court of the ancient palace, on the banks of the Thames. Under the House of Commons, in passages or apartments allotted to various uses, are considerable remains of an ancient chapel, and attached, are several buildings, which, having escaped the fire in 1834, are used as committee- rooms, offices, &c. Many designs have been submitted to the consideration SOMERSET HOUSE. 77 of a select committee, appointed by Parliament, for the re-crection of the venerable structures of which we have just spoken. The fortunate competitor was Mr. Barry, whose plan, for beauty, and elegant combination, can scarcely, we should think, be surpassed. The proposed buildings harmonize, with singular felicity, with West- minster-hall and the Abbey, and would have a most beautiful effect from the river, SOMERSET HOUSE, strand. This pile of buildings occupies the site of an extensive palace, erected about 1549, by the Protector Somerset, and afterwards occasionally occupied by Queen Elizabeth, Anne of Denmark, the queen of James I., by the consort of Charles II., and several of the queens dowager. The original palace was taken down in 177^3 to make room for the present suite of public offices. Sir William Chambers was selected as the architect, and the design of the build- ing does credit both to him and the age in which he lived. It consists of a spacious quadrangle ; the south front, on the banks of the Thames, has a fine terrace, fifty feet above the bed of the river, and fifty feet broad, on arches of massive rustic work; the centre arch, or water-gate, is ornamented with a colossal mask of the Thames, in alto- relievo. The whole building is nearly 800 feet long, and 340 feet wide ; tlie quadrangular court is 340 feet long, and 210 feet wide. The north and south fronts are formed by massive buildings of rustic work. The centre of the south side is ornamented witii an arcade of four columns, with two pilasters on each side ; on the columns rests a pedi- ment, containing a representation, in basso-relievo, of the arms of the royal navy, supported by a sea-nymph. On the corners of the pediment are military trophies, and above the columns are elegant vases. The east and west sides of the building are nearly similar, but not so pro- fusely ornamented. The Strand front is only 135 feet long. It consists of a rustic basement, formed of nine arches, three of which in the centre are open, and form the entrance into the qua- drangle. The three arches on each side of the entrance are filled with windows of tho Doric order, and adorned H 3 78 SOMERSET HOUSE. with pilasters, pediments, and entablatures. On the key- stones of the arches, Ocean, and eight of his principal tributary streams, are exhibited in emblematic masks, in alto-relievo. The basement is surmounted by ten lofty Corinthian columns (comprising two floors) on pedestals, with regular entablatures; the lower windows are sur- rounded with plain architraves; but the upper ones have a balustrade in front, and are ornamented with Ionic pil- lars, &c. The central windows have large tablets, cover- ing part of the architrave and frieze, on which, in basso- relievo, are medallions of their late majesties, George the Third and t'ourth, and of Queen Charlotte. The attic extends over three intercolumniations, and is divided into three parts, by four colossal statues, emblematic of Justice, Faith, Valour, and Moderation ; the whole being sur- mounted by a group, consisting of the arms of the British empire, supported on one side by the genius of England, and on the other by Fame. The vestibule, which forms the only entrance, is closed at night by iron gates. It is decorated with columns of the Doric order. Over the side doors in the vestibule are two busts by Walton ; the one representing Michael Angelo, and the other Sir Isaac Newton. In the open area of Somerset House, nearly facing the entrance, is a bronze statue of George III., with a figure representing Father Thames at his feet, ^pouring plenty into his lap. It is by Bacon, and considered to be finely executed. The principal public offices in Somerset House, are the following: — Audit-office, Duchy of Cornwall, Legacy Duty- office, Stamps and Taxes, (including Hackney Coaches, Hawkers and Pedlars, and all the Assessed Taxes,) the Navy, Navy Pay, and Victualling Departments, now all consolidated under the title of Admiralty, the General Registry Office, and the Poor Law Commissioners. Behind the western side of the quadrangle is a row of handsome houses, now chiefly occupied by the principal officers having the management of the Admiralty depart- ment in the square. On the east of Somerset House is King^s College, which is described at p. 95. THE TREASURY. 79 THE HORSE GUARDS Is at Whitehall, and is a handsome, though heavy build- ing of stone. Here are the Commander-in-Chief's depart- ment, the Secretary at War's, and the Adjutant and Quarter-master-general's. The building consists of a centre and two wings; the former has under it an arched roadway, and two footpaths into St, James's Park, and above, a cupola containing a clock, which is considered one of the best regulated in London. , Between the centre and the road is an open square, where the cavalry on duty here are daily paraded; and facing the street, is a hand- some gateway, at each side of which is a sentry-box of hewn stone, where two of the horse-guards daily mount guard, from about ten till four. The sides are chiefly occupied with stables for the cavalry on duty here, with mess-room and other accommodations for the officers. THE ADMIRALTY Is at Whitehall, not far from Charing Cross. It was built on the site of Wallingford House, in the reign of George II., from designs by Ripley. It recedes consider- ably from the street, but has a handsome screen, level with the path, surmounted with various naval devices. The main building is of brick, and is capacious and con- venient, but not externally handsome ; the portico, which pretends to be a specimen of the Ionic order, is deemed a failure. The hall is handsome, and many of the rooms very elegant, especially the Board-room, where the Lords Commissioners meet. Here, besides the offices, are good suites of apartments for resident commissioners, and others. On the top of the building is a Semaphore-telegraph, for communicating with the seaports,' THE TREASURY Is also at Whitehall, with an entrance from the extreme corner of St. James's Park, by an archway which com- municates, by gloomy passages, with Downing-street. The park-front is of stone, and built from the designs of Kent ; it consists of three stories, of the Tuscan, Doric, and Ionic styles of architecture, the whole very beautifully executed. The centre has a range of four Ionic columns, supporting 80 EXETER HALL. a pediment. That side of tlie building which faces White- hall-chapel, is a portion of the old palace of Cardinal Wolsey; it had formerly an embattled parapet, but this has long since been removed, and a modern facing of brick- work, covered with a mud-coloured wash, is all that now meets the eye. OTHER PUBLIC OFFICES. In Downing-street are the offices for Foreign and Colo- nial Affairs, and official residences for the First Lord of the Treasury and the Chancellor of the Exchequer. The Council-office, Whitehall, at the corner of Down- mg-street_, is a handsome edifice, erected in 1826 by Sir J. Soane. Adjoining the Treasury, and communicating with it and the Council-office, is the office of the Home Department ; in Cannon-row, close against Westminster-bridge, is the Board of Control for the affairs of India, a handsome modern structure, with an Ionic portico of stone, sur- mounted by a balustrade. Opposite the Admiralty, a handsome stone archway was erected in 1818, to com- municate with Scotland-yard^ a spot which has of late years been greatly improved. Here is intended to be the office of the Board of Works, In AV hit ehall -place is the office of Woods and Forests, YORK COLUMN, Waterloo Place. This beautiful column was erected in 1 830-3, from designs by Mr. B. Wyatt, and is exactly the same height as the cele- brated column of Trajan at Rome, namely, 124 feet. The pedestal is formed of Aberdeen, and the shaft of Peterhead granite. The whole is surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke of York, executed by Westmacott, 14 feet in height. A winding staircase in the interior leads to a gallery, ff om which there is a good view. EXETER HALL, Strand. Was erected in 1830, as a place of meeting for the various religious and charitable societies of the metropolis. It was built from designs by G. Deering, and presents towards the street a portico of two pillars and two pilasters, over which is a Greek inscription, denoting brotherly affection. CLUB-HOTJSES. 81 The building comprises various offices belonging to dif- ferent societies, and two halls ; one capable of holding 800 persons, and the other, on the upper floor, a noble room, 136 feet by 76, which will accommodate about 3,000 persons. CLUB-HOUSES. These establishments for the accommodation of the upper classes of society have very much increased in number and in splendour within a few years. Most of them are situ- ated at the West-end of London, and are supported by the subscriptions of the members, who pay from 20 to 25 guineas entrance, and five or six guineas annually. Amongst the principal distinguished for their architectural appear- ance are the following : — The University Club Hoiise^ Suffolk-street, erected in 1824, from designs by Gandy and Wilkins. The Oxford and Cambridge, between Nos. 70 and 77? Pall Mall, built from designs by Mr. Sidney Smirke and Sir Robert Smirke, and adorned with basso-relievos by Mr. Nicholl. Crockford'^s, St. James's-street, erected by Messrs. "Wyatt, in 1827. The Athenceum, Pall Mall, built by Mr. D. Burton, in 1829. The Travellers', 106, Pall Mall, erected by Mr. Barry, in 1832. The Union, Trafalgar-square, and the Junior United Service, Charles-street, both from designs by Mr. Smirke. The Senior United Service, Pall Mall, from designs by Nash. Arthur'^s Club House, St. James's-street ; and Brookes^s, St, James's-street. TEMPLE BAR Is situated between Fleet-street and the Strand, and is the only one of the city gates remaining. It was erected by Sir C. Wren, in 1670, and is ornamented with statues of Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I. and II. In former times, wdien persons were executed for high treason, their heads were exposed to public view on this gate. At this barrier also proclamations are made, and here the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, on certain occasions, receive the Royal Family, 82 WESTMINSTER HALL. X. Westminster Hall and Courts op Law. WESTMINSTER HALL Was originally "built by William Rufus, and afterwards enlarged by Richard II. It is the largest room in Europe unsupported by pillars, except the theatre at Oxford — length, 270 feet; breadth, 74 feet; height, 90 feet. Its original use was to entertain the king's guests on grand festivals. Richard II. entertained 10,000 persons at Christmas within its walls, and it has since been used for coronation feasts — the coronation of George IV. having be.en the last occasion. The roof, which principally con- sists of chestnut-wood, is very curiously constructed, and adorned with angels supporting shields charged with the arms of Richard II., and his patron saint, Edward the Confeissor ; on the stone frieze, below the windows, are various sculptures of a hart couchant, and other devices of Richard II. The pavement has been thrice raised, at different periods, in order to keep out the water, the hall having been frequently flooded, at high tides, by the waters of the Thames. The side-walls were internally strength- ened, about fifty years ago, and the entire edifice was repaired and new-fronted in the years 1820, 1821, and 1822, when the lantern was rebuilt, and the upper win- dows, at the side of the hall, first added. The hail having been much injured by the fire in 1834, which destroyed the Houses of Parliament, has recently undergone a thorough repair. Westminster-hall, with tlie spot on which the Houses of Lords and Commons formerly stood, occupies the site of the palace of William the Conqueror, and of his sons William Rufus and Henry I. and their successors, till Henry VIII. Parliaments have frequently met in this hall, and it has been occasionally fitted up for grand trials. Charles I. was tried, and received sentence, beneath its roof, and more recently it was used in the cases of Warren Hastings and Lord Melville. In ordinary times, it forms a promenade for lawyers and suitors, during the sittings of the adjoining courts of law. On the west side of the hall are the new buildings erected, from designs by Mr. Soane, for the courts of Chancery, Queen's Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer. The Lord Chancellor's and Vice-Chancellor's courts are WESTMIJ^^STEU HALL. 83 spacious, and particularly well-arranged, with seats and galleries for suitors. A grand ceremony takes place here on the first day of each term, when the Lord Chancellor and the other judges arrive in state, and being joined at the entrance of the hall by the serjeants-at-law and bar- risters, walk in procession to the several courts. The Lord Chancellor and Vice-Chancellor have also courts in Lincoln's-inn-square, where the sittings after term are holden ; as those of the Queen's Bench and Common Pleas are in the Guildhall of the city of London. The Inns of Court appear to have been formerly much more numerous than at present. One called Chester Inn is said to have been situate on the spot where Somerset House now stands ; a second at Dowgate ; a third in Paternoster-row ; and a fourth somewhere still nearer St. Paul's Cathedral, which, in the days of its profanation, was the great place of business for lawyers. Each practitioner had his OAvn pillar in the cathedral, where he took his stand at stated hours of the day, with a pen and paper- book, ready to receive the instructions of clients. So perfectly, indeed, was the practice recognised, that, on the making of a Serjeant, it was usual for the whole body of Serjeants to walk in their robes to St. Paul's, to invest their new brother with his particular pillar of business. The number of these inns of court appears to have been so much on the increase in the reign of Henry III., that it was thought necessary to restrain them by proclamation. Some, which now exist, were, however, erected after this prohil3ition. The number remaining is thirteen, nine of which are within, and five without the liberties of the City, and all are (we believe) extra-parochial. The inns were anciently of three classes : two of these might properly have been designated the outer and inner; the third bore the name of Serjeants' Inn. The outer were called Inns of Chancery, from their being places of elementary instruction, where young men were taught the nature of Chancery writs, which were then considered as developing the first principles of law. Such were Clif- ford's, Thavie's, Barnard's, Staple's, Clement's, Lyon's, New Inn, and some other Inns now extinct. In the reign of Henry VI. there were ten of these lesser inns, each of which contained not less than 100 students. When per- sons had made some progress at these inns, they were then 84 WESTMINSTER HALL. admitted into the superior or inner courts, where they perfected their degrees. Of these courts there were four ; namely, the Inner and Middle Temple, Gray's Inn, and Lincoln's Inn, which still retain the pre-eminence they originally possessed. At the period of which we have spoken, none of these Inns of Court had less than 200 members. In the hall of Lincoln's Inn, where the Lord Chancellor sits out of term time, there is a picture by Hogarth, representing Paul before Felix, There is also a statue of Erskine, by Westmacott. The Serjeants' inns, of which formerly there were three, were of a still higher order than any of the others, being occupied solely by the lawyers who had been advanced to the dignity of the coif, including the judges, who, though promoted to the bench, still style every Serjeant their ''brother." One of these, which was situated about the middle of Fleet-street, was held on a lease from the Dean and Chapter of York ; and on the expiring of the lease it was not thought proper to renew it. The place, though now differently occupied, still retains the name. Another inn, for the use of Serjeants only, was situated in Scroop's- . court, Holborn, near St. Andrew's Church. The only Serjeants' Inn at the present day, is in Chancery-lane, near Fleet-street, and has recently been rebuilt. A district in London, extending a small distance round Lincoln's Inn, is termed the Liberty of the Rolls, of which the Master of the Rolls, by virtue of his office, is lord. Here he has a handsome residence, leading into the court in which he officiates (the Rolls' Court, Lincoln's Inn, which is one of the Courts of Chancery), as from one room to another, a large garden, and a chapel of his own, with the appointment of the minister. The chapel is adorned with some beautiful stained glass. It is supposed to have been designed by Inigo Jones, and contains several monu- ments to the memory of deceased masters and others — ■ one by Torregiano, in honour of Dr. Young, who died in 1616, is particularly admired. Here Lord Gifford was buried in 1826. The Court of Bankrupts, now amenable to a court of review at Westminster, is in Basinghall-street. The Court for the Relief of Insolvent Debtors is in Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, and has three com- missioners. DOCTORS* COMMONgi 85 DOCTORS' COMMONS. The doctors of the ecclesiastical, civil, and maritime laws have a college of their own, situate in Knight Rider-street, usually called Doctors' Commons, from their commoning together in a collegiate manner, as in the inns of court. The present commodious buildings were erected in 1672, and in 1678 the members were incorporated. The college has a handsome hall, where the dilferent courts in which its members officiate hold their sittings. The doctors or advocates sit on the same bench with the judge ; and each has a particular seat assigned to him on his admission, which he always keeps. The principal ecclesiastical court is the Court of Arches^ said to be so called from its having been anciently held in the crypt of Bow Church, which was originally built upon the arches. The thirteen parishes in London, which are peculiars of the archbishop of Canterbury, are under the immediate jurisdiction of the judge of this court, who is hence styled the dean of Arches. The Prerogative Court is guardian of the Various rights of succession to property. It has a registry attached to it, in which all original wills are deposited, and all grants of letters of administration to executors and next of kin. The Office of Faculties and Dispensations empowers any one to do that which in law he could not otherwise do ; as, for instance, to marry without the publication of banns, to succeed a father in an ecclesiastical benefice, &c. The Court of Delegates is the highest of all the ecclesi- astical courts of the province of Canterbury. Appeals lie to it from any of the other courts, and the decisions are generally considered final. The crown has the power, indeed, to grant a commission of review under the broad seal ; but this is rarely exercised. The Court of Admiralty takes cognizance of all offences on the high seas, questions relating to seamen's wages, claims of salvage, &c. It was erected in the reign of King Edward III., and was originally held in South wark. When the causes before it relate to offences committed at sea, it does not hold its sittings here, but at the sessions' -house in the Old Bailey ; and any barrister at common law may then plead before it. The doctors of law have an excellent library attached to their college. I 8G SQUARES Ai^B STATUES. XI. Squares and Statues^ Bazaars, and Arcades, SQUARES AND STATUES. Amongst tlie remarkable features which distinguish Lon- don from the large cities of the Continent are the number and extent of its squares, large open areas surrounded by buildings frequently of considerable architectural beauty, the residences of the upper classes of society. Qi these squares there are about two -hundred, but tha following are the most worthy of notice. Belcjrave-sqiiare^ Pimlico, a noble quadrangle 684 fee^ by 617, erected about 1826, on the estate of the Marquis of Westminster. Berkeley-square^ to the north of Piccadilly, having on one side of it, the noble residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Bloom shury -square^ in which is a colossal statue of C. J. Fox, by Westmacott. Cavendish-^juare, built about 1717? is adorned with a statue of William, duke of Cumberland, erected in 1770. Eaton-square, near Belgrave-square, measures 1637 feet by 371, and is bounded at the end by Samt Peter's^ church. Finshury-square, Moorfields, built towards the close o£ the last century. Fitzroy-square, near the Regent's-park, erected fron^ designs by Messrs. Adams. Grosvenor-square took its name from Sir Robert Gros-- venor, and has in the centre a statue of George I., by Van Nost. Hanover-square has on the east side a bronze statue of William Pitt, by Chantrey. St, James* s-square has in the centre a statue of William III. On the east side is the residence of the bishops of London, as well as Norfolk House, in which George III. was born. Leicester-square is adorned with a bronze statue of George I. This square was formerly the residence of several remarkable persons. Hogarth lived at the house which is now the Sabloniere-liotel, John Hunter, the surgeon, in the next house towards the north, and Sir Joshua Reynolds at No. 47. BAZAARS AND ARCADES, 87 Lincoln* S'lnn-Fields were laid out with gardens by liiigo Jones, about 1020, which occupy the same space as the largest of the Egyptian pyramids. On the north side of this square is the Soanean Museum, and on the south the Royal College of Surgeons. Here Lord William Russell was executed in 1683. Manchester-square took its name from the duke of Manchester, who built his town residence on one side of it. Portman-square was erected between 1760 and 1780. At the north-west corner is Montague House, formerly the residence of Mrs. Montague, so well known for the interest she took in the chimney -sweeping tribe. Russell-square is adorned with a bronze statue of Francis, duke of Bedford, by Westmacott. Soho-square took its name from the word for the day at the battle of Sedgmoor, the duke of Monmouth having formerly resided there. In the centre is a stone statue of Charles II., but so decayed that the features are no longer distinguishable. In addition to the statues already noticed, there are the following : Queen Anne, situate in Queen's-square, Bloomsbury; James II., behind Whitehall, executed by GrinUn Gibbons ; Charles I., at Charing Cross, cast by Le Sueur ; George III., in Pall Mall East, by Wyatt ; George Canning, in New Palace-yard, by Westmacott ; Achilles, in Hyde-park, by Westmacott, erected in honour of the duke of Wellington. . BAZAAPvS AND ARCADES. Within these few years, a fashion has arisen of exhibiting goods for sale, especially fancy articles, in repositories, in imitation of the bazaars of the East, and called by the same name. The first of these was established in Soho- square, by Mr. Trotter, about the year 1815, and is styled The Soho Bazaar. It consists of a ground floor and two upper stories, at the counters round which, upwards of 400 females have standings, as they are called, for the sale of articles of almost every description. The bazaar is open every day, except Sundays, Christmas-day, Good- Friday, and public fasts, from nine till dark, and is frequented by thousands of genteel and fashionable people. Besides this, there are the Pantheon, Oxford-street, the Pantechnicon^ near Sloane-square, Chelsea, and some I 2 88 RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES. others. Many of these are fitted up with great elegance, and have apartments devoted to exhibitions of various kinds, with musical performances and other attractions. The bazaars themselves may be inspected without charge, the expectation being that visitors will voluntarily pur- chase something. The principal Arcades, which, in many respects, re- semble the bazaars, are, the Burlington, Piccadilly; the Opera Colonnade, Pali-Mall; and the Lowther Arcade, Strand. XII, Religious and Charitable Societies, and Hospitals. The Religious and Charitable Institutions of the metro- polis claim our next notice. Of the Religious Societies in London, the following is a pretty copious, though not a complete list : — British and Foreign Bible Society, Society for Promot- ing Christian Knowledge, Church Missionary Society, Wesleyan Missionary Society, London Missionary Society, Moravian Missionary Society (in London), Home Mis- sionary Society, Society for the Conversion of Jews, Reli- gious Tract Society, Female Penitentiary, Church of England Tract Society, Society for the Relief of Pious Clergymen, Prayer Book and Homily Society, British and Foreign School Society, Naval and Military Bible Society, Sunday School Union Society, Continental Society, African Institution, Society for Promoting Religious Knowledge among the Poor, Society for Encouragement of Female Servants, Merchant Seamen's Bible Society, Sunday School Society, Society for Building Churches and Chapels, Hibernian Society, Hibernian Bible Society, Irish Reli- gious Book and Tract Society, Irish Evangelical Society, Sunday School Society for Ireland, Irish Baptist Society, Irish Society of London. Add to these the numerous national and other schools for religious education, and innumerable societies already formed, and continually forming, which include religious instruction among their views, and the sum total of bene- volence on this subject only will be found enormous. There are twenty-four hospitals for the sick, the lame, for children, for the cure of particular complaints, as dis- eases of the eye, or the ear, &c. ; numerous alms-houses HOSPITALS. 89 for the maintenance of the aged, and upwards of thirty dispensaries for the gratuitous supply of medicine and medical aid to the poor, 60,000 of whom are thus annually relieved. Of all the institutions in London, there is not one more humane or more useful than the Society for the Discharge and Relief of Persons Imprisoned for Small Debts, which was established in 1772, principally through the exertions of the unfortunate Dr. Dodd. Within fifteen months after this society was formed, 986 prisoners were liberated through its means ; and the number since discharged annually, has averaged nearly 1 ,000, at an expense of less than 3*. each person. The Westminster Hospital^ established in 1719, was the first institution of the kind in England, for the relief of the sick and afflicted poor. The City Dispensary in the Poultry, is a similar esta- blishment, and assists upwards of 5,000 persons annually. The National Vaccine Establishment is of extensive utility, vaccinating gratuitously, throughout England, upwards of 300,000 persons every year. The Royal Humane Society , for the recovery of persons apparently drowned, and the roAvard of persons exerting themselves to save the life of a fellow-creature, has twenty receiving-houses in London, with apparatus constantly ready, and has rescued from the grave many thousands of persons. The Royal Dispensary for Children, which is open to a first application for relief, without recommendation, is eminently useful. The Royal Infirmaries for Diseases of the Eye and the Ear, have each preserved or restored the sight and hearing of many thousands_, and performed numerous successful operations. There are fourteen Lying-in-Hospitals in London ; some receivings patients, others attending them at their own houses, lending linen, &c. The City of London and the British Hospitals are, we believe, the largest. The Stranger^s Friend Society, for relieving distressed persons of all countries and religions, employs 300 visitors in the benevolent, but painful duty of seeking out cases of wretchedness, and is a most excellent institution. i3 go HOSPITALS. The Aims-Houses of London are very numerous ; there are upwards of 100 different foundations, in which nearly 2,000 persons are comfortably maintained. The Drapers' Company alone has alms-houses for 113 persons. ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL, In West Smithfield, Was originally founded in 1102, but not incorporated until the reign of Edward VI. ; it escaped the great fire of London, and endured until 1730, when it was rebuilt by subscription. The building is quadrangular, with a large inner court. The principal entrance, in Smithfield, is by a noble Doric arch, surmounted by a statue of Henry VIII., (who, though he dissolved the original priory here, preserved the hospital), the royal arms, and two figures representing sickness and lameness. The interior is spacious and well-arranged, with every possible regard to cleanliness and comfort. The hall and staircase contain several paintings, some of which are by Hogarth. This hospital is open to accidents at all times, and con- siderable facility is given to the admission of all kinds of patients. The number of in-patients is about 5,000, that of out-patients, 6,000, annually. ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, Southwark, Is devoted to the same objects as that of St. Bartholomew, and relieves the sick poor to the same extent. This hospital originated in two similar charities on the same site, in the 13th century; it was enlarged in the time of Edward VI., and rebuilt in 1693, in three quadrangles, by subscription. The benevolent Thomas Guy built three of the wards at his own expense, and Thomas Frederic, Esq., three others. Another quadrangle, with numerous wards and offices, was added in 1732, and great improve- ments were made in 1836 ; the total number of wards being now nineteen, containing 500 beds. GUY'S HOSPITAL Is also in Southwark, and is one of the most munificent gifts ever presented by an individual to the public. It was founded by Mr. Thomas Guy, a wealthy bookseller, of London, of whom we have already spoken as a bene- factor to St. Thomas's. This gentleman had amassed a HOSPITALS. 91 large fortune, a great portion of which he appropriated to works of charity. At the age of 76, he commenced the present hospital, on which he expended nearly 19,000/., previously to his decease. He died in 1724, before it was finished, by his will endowing this hospital with the vast sum of 299,409/. lis. 4d ; bequeathing a perpetual annuity of 400/. to Christ's Hospital, the sum of 1,000/. for dis- charging poor debtors, and upwards of 75,000/., besides life-annuities, to his poor relations. In 1829, Thomas Hunt bequeathed nearly £200,000 to Guy's Hospital, on con- dition that accommodation be found for 100 additional patients. The hospital now contains upwards of 500 beds. It has a chapel, a theatre of anatomy, and an excellent museum. ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL, Situated at Hyde Park Corner, was rebuilt in 1831, from designs by Mr. Wilkins, and is. appropriated to the recep- tion of the sick and the lame. The principal front, facing the Green-park, is 200 feet in length. This hospital con- tains twenty-nine wards and 460 beds. There are in London two hospitals, devoted exclusively to the reception of lunatics ; these are Bethlem Hospital, St. George's-fields, and St, Luke^s Hospital, Old-street. Both are spacious and handsome buildings, with extensive grounds for exercise, and every accommodation which humanity can suggest for the unfortunate inmates. The other hospitals are, the Middlesex, top of Berners'- street, for the sick and lame, pregnant married women, and the cure of cancer ; the London, Whitechapel-road, established for the reception of sick and wounded seamen, shipwrights, labourers, &c. ; but extended to other classes ; the North London, newly established in Gower-street ; the Westminster^ James-street, Buckingham-gate, for sick and needy from all parts;" the Loch, Grosvenor- place; Small Pox Hospital, and Fever Hospital, near King's-cross ; a Dutch and German Hospital, and another for Spanish and Portuguese Jews, at Mile-end; and a French Hospital, in Old-street. THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guildford-street, Was established in 1739, when Captain Thomas Coram, the owner of an American trader, and who spent his wholq 92 HOSPITALS. fortune on this benevolent object, obtained a royal charter for its incorporation. As it was to be erected by subscrip- tion, the first stone of the building was not laid until September, 1742, and as benefactions continued to flow in, a chapel was built, to which the celebrated Handel gave an organ, and the benefit of his oratorio of the Messiah, which, in a few years, produced nearly T,OOOL for the charity. The hospital was first opened for the indiscri' minate admission of children, *^ to prevent the murder of infants by their mothers to hide their shame, and the exposure of new-born infants in the streets." Before the end of 1752, 1,042 infants had been received on this principle ; but the funds of the institution failed, and in 17^6, parliament voted 10,000/. in aid of this charity, recommending that all the children offered should still be received. On the 2nd of June, in that year, 117 were admitted, and before December, 1757^ the number amounted to 5,510, and in 1760, to 0,000. The system of indiscriminate admission was then restrained by Act of Parliament, as of evil consequence ; but the legislature still continued to aid the institution by grants, until the improvement of its rentals, from new buildings on the hospital lands, rendered these unnecessary. The annual revenue of the hospital is now about 13,000/. a year: the number of childre.n under its protection is generally from 400 to 500. At the age of twelve, they are apprenticed, or provided with places. The hospital is a brick struc- ture, consisting of two wings, with a chapel in the centre. The gardens and play-ground are very large, and as healthy as could be expected from the situation. The chapel is handsomely fitted up, and genteely attended ; the donations at its doors producing about 3,000/. per annum. The altar-piece is by West. ORPHAN ASYLUMS. The Asylum for Female Orphans is in the Westminster- road, and the London Orphan Asylum^ between Hackney and Clapton. The former receives destitute females from the age of nine to twelve ; the latter admits boys and girls from seven to ten. The children are educated and industriously employed, until of sufficient age to be pro- vided with places or apprenticed. There are also the British Orphan Asylum, at Clapham, and the Infant Orphan, Asylum^ at Dalston. HOSPITALS. 93 THE MAGDALEN HOSPITAL, Blackfriars-road, Was established in 1748, for the reception and reclama- tion of misguided females, through the exertions of the Rev. Dr. Dingley, H. Fielding, Esq., and the unfortunate Dr. Dodd, During the existence of this excellent insti- tution, more than two-thirds of the women admitted to its benefits have been restored to their friends, or placed in some suitable employment. Many have married, and become most respectable members of society. Most of the females, when discharged from this establishment, have been under twenty years of age. The chapel of this society is much frequented, partly on account of the singing, which is performed by the females (screened by a curtain from public view). This charity may be visited by permission of the committee of governors, who meet at the hospital every Thursday, To the Magdalen, there are two auxiliaries, the Female Penitentiary, corner of Southampton-street, Pentonville, and the Guardian Society, St. George's in the East, The Female Penitentiary, like the Magdalen, affords an asylum, as far as its funds will allow, to all females desirous of reforming, and is conducted with great decorum and har- mony; the Guardian Society, for the preservation of public morals, also receives a great number of females annually, whom they provide with situations, or reconcile with their friends. The Female Refuge for the Destitute, Hackney-road, is in many respects a similar institution, THE ASYLUM FOR THE DEAF AND DUMB, Nearly opposite the Bricklayers' Arms, Kent-road, re- ceives children deprived of the faculties of speech and hearing, who, by various ingenious modes, are instructed in writing, arithmetic, and the principles of religion, and taught some useful manual operations by which, after leaving the asylum, they may earn their livelihood. Visitors are admitted here, THE SCHOOL FOR THE INDIGENT BLIND Is in St; George's-fields, and was established in 1799, to instruct persons, male and female, unhappily deprived of the blessings of sight, in some trade by which to maintain 94 CHAUITABLE SOCIETIES. themselves. This establishment usually contains about sixty inmates, who are employed in the manufacture of baskets, mats, thread, linen, &c., by which they earn a considerable sum in repayment for the benefits they receive. Strangers are permitted (gratis) to view this interesting institution, which has been lately rebuilt, THE PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETY, London-road, St. George's-fields, "Was established in 1788, for the reform of discharged juvenile offenders, by employment and habits of virtue, and the protection of the offspring of criminals. Nearly 200 children of both sexes are admitted and instructed — the boys in printing, book-binding, shoe-making, &c., and the girls in needlework, and the duties of household servants. Such of the young inmates as have actually commenced a career of vice, are first placed in a separate building, called the Reform," until they appear suffi- ciently amended to be allowed to associate with the rest. The Refuse for the Destitute, Hackney-road and Hox- ton, is an institution similar to the preceding. Its objects are the reformation of juvenile offenders, and to provide a place of refuge for persons who, from loss of character, or destitution, are unable, though willing, to obtain employ- ment. The Marine Society is in Bishopsgate-street ; it was commenced in 1756, for the purpose of fitting out and qualifying distressed, and even depraved boys for the sea- service. Thousands of youths were thus provided for during the late war. The society has a vessel moored in the river, in which the boys are instructed as well in moral as in nautical duties. The Royal Humane Society'* s office is in Chatham-place, Blackfriars ; the Royal Pension Society, for the permanent relief of aged persons, Lancaster-place, Strand ; the Bene' volent Institution, Southampton-row, Bioomsbury; the Society of Schoolmasters, for the relief of necessitous school-masters and ushers, their widows and orphans ; the Scottish Hospital, Crane-court, Fleet-street, for the relief of distressed natives of Scotland ; the CaledoniaruAsyliim, New Chalk-road, Pentonville, for the support and educa- tion of the children of Scottish soldiers, &c. ; the Literary king's college. 95 Fund Society, Lincoln's-inn-fields, for the relief of dis- tressed authors and their families ; the Society for the Relief of Foreigners in Distress ; with a host of other associations equally eminent for benevolence and use- fulness. XIII. University, Public Schools, &c. THE UNIVERSITY OF LONDON Holds its sittings at Somerset House, in the rooms which were formerly occupied by the Royal Academy. Its objects, according to the charter, which was granted Nov. 28, 1836, are, "the advancement of religion and morality, the promotion of useful knowledge," and the holding forth " to all classes and denominations, without any distinction whatsoever, an encouragement for pursuing a regular and liberal course of education." The senate consists of a chancellor, vice-chancellor, and twenty-five members, who are appointed for the purpose of ascer- taining, by means of examination, the persons who have acquired proficiency in literature, science, and art, by the pursuit of such course of education, and of rewarding them by academical degrees." KING'S COLLEGE Was founded in 1828, under the royal sanction, as a college for general education in conformity to the Esta- blished Church, in which, while the various branches of literature and science are made the subjects of instruction, the minds of youth will be imbued with a Imowledge of religious truths and moral duties. It is patronized by the dignitaries of the church, and by a great many of the nobility, and its government is vested in a council of forty-one members, of which the Bishop of London is the president. The college is under the superintendence of a principal, and there are more than thirty masters. It composes an upper department, for young men of sixteen years of age and upwards ; a school of medicine and surgery ; and a grammar school for boys from seven to sixteen years of age. The building was designed by Sir R. Smirke, and forms the east wing of Somerset House. It was commenced in 1829, and completed in 1831. It contains a library, 96 CHRIST S HOSPITAL. museum, chapel, lecture-rooms, and the residence of the principal. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, Gower Street, Was founded in 1825, as the London University, a title which has since been altered to its present appella- tion, in order to distinguish it from the institution first noticed. It is governed by a council, and the superin- tendence is entrusted to a warden. The course of instruc- tion comprises languages, mathematics, physics," the mental and moral sciences, history, political economy, medicine, surgery, &c. The building was designed by Mr. Wilkins, and is intended to consist of a centre and two wings. The former only has been erected, and this is adorned with a noble portico. It contains a hall, various lecture-rooms, libra- ries, a museum of natural history, an anatomical museum, &c. The first stone was laid April 30, 1827, and the first lecture was delivered Oct, 1, 1828. Of the Scholastic Hospitals and Endowed Schools of London, the principal are, Christ's Hospital, St. Paul's School, Westminster School, Merchant Tailors' School, and the Charter.-house. CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, Newgate Street, Generally termed the Blue Coat School, It was founded in the beginning of the thirteenth century, as a monastery of Grey Friars, but at the dissolution, was given by Henry VIII., with other lands, to the City, for the use of the poor. The object of the gift, however, was neglected for many years, until the reign ©f Edward VI., when the pious Bishop Ridley, aided by Dobbs, the benevolent lord mayor, were instrumental in obtaining from the king an act of incorporation, by which the hospital was allotted to the maintenance and education of the young and helpless, for whose reception it was prepared in 1552. Nearly 400 children of both sexes were then admitted, the boys into a grammar-school, the girls into a school for reading, sewing, and marking. The system is now, of course, much altered and improved : a mathematical school was founded by Charles II., for the education of forty boys for the sea- Christ's hospital. 97 service ; and another school for this purpose was after- wards added. The establishment will now accommodate upwards of 1,100 children, among whom are eighty girls, who are all provided for gratuitously in every respect. The hospital was at first particularly intended for orphans ; and, although their state of destitution is no longer an indispensable qualification, yet it is a strong recommendation; so that, of the 1,000 boys in the school in 1809, there were 360 who were either orphans, or had lost one of their parents. About a third part of the chil- dren, including all the girls, are educated at an auxiliary branch of Christ's Hospital, at Hertford, whence the boys, when sufficiently advanced in their studies, are transferred to London. The hospital has seven exhibitions for Cambridge, and one for Oxford, in every seven years. The governmeut of Clu^ist's Hospital is vested in the lord mayor and aldermen, and twelve common-council- men, chosen by lot ; benefactors to the amount of 400/. are also governors. There are four schools, for grammar, writing, mathematics, and drawing ; the boys admitted to the mathematical school, when their education is finished, are placed with commanders of vessels, and equipped at the expense of the hospital. Christ's Hospital is an extensive structure, consisting of various irregular parts. The south front is ornamented with Doric pilasters, and a statue of the founder. The great hall, in which the boys take breakfast, dine, and sup, was built from designs by John Shaw, Esq., in 1829, and is 187 feet long, fifty-one feet broad, and forty-seven high. At each end is a gallery for visitors, in one of which is a very fine organ. Beneath the gallery at the west end are several seats for governors and visitors, and the floor of the hall is occupied by tables and forms. Against the northern wall is a large picture, by Verrio, containing many figures, representing James II., with his consort, receiving the president, governor, and many of the children of the hospital. Another picture represents Edward VI. delivering the charter of the hospital to the lord mayor and aldermen. In the Court Room are portraits of Edward VI., by Holbein, and of the chief benefactors to the hospital. In K 98 WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. another room, faced with stone, are kept the records, deeds, and other writings. The whole of Christ's Hospital is about to be rebuilt by the architect of the new hall. ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL Was erected in 1509, by Dr. John Colet, dean of St. Paul's, on the foundation of an ancient school which existed here as early as the reign of Henry I. The dean conveyed the whole estate for this purpose to the Mer- cers' Company, to whom he entrusted the perpetual care of the school. The rules for the government of the school were drawn up by the dean himself ; it was insti- tuted for the free education of 153 boys, and is divided into eight classes, or forms, the children advancing gra- dually from one to the other as they attain proficiency. They are generally taught Greek and Latin, and some are even more highly educated, a certain number being sent annually to the universities of Oxford and Cambridge, on exhibitions of 50/. a-year each. John Milton, Camden and Strype, the antiquaries, the great Duke of Marlbo- rough, the philosophic Earl of Orrery, Halley, the cele- brated astronomer, and many other distinguished charac- ters, received their education at this school. In addition to the original fund of the dean, the school has had also several bequests of considerable amount, and a donation of 16,000/. 3 per cents, by Viscount Camden, for exhibitions of 100/. a-year at Trinity College, Cambridge. The original school was destroyed by the great fire, and was rebuilt by the Mercers' Company; but the latter structure has also given way to the mouldering hand of time, and has been succeeded by a more elegant and con- venient building, erected in 1824, from designs by Mr. G, Smith. WESTMINSTER SCHOOL Is supposed to have been founded so early as the eleventh century, but to have afterwards declined ; in consequence of which, Queen Elizabeth refounded it in 1590, for forty boys, called, in honour of her. Queen Elizabeth's Scho- lars, who are educated for the universities. The esta- blishment is in Dean's-yard, Westminster, and receives, besides the queen's, forty free scholars, and many of the THE CHARTER HOUSE. 99 sons of the nobility and gentry are educated here as pri- vate scholars, under the first classical and other masters^ for which the school has always been distinguished. One of Terence's plays is performed here annually (in Decem- ber) before a number of noble auditors. THE CHARTER HOUSE, On the north side of Charter-house-square, occupies the site of an ancient monastery for Carthusian monks, called the Chartreuse y (of which Charter-house is a corruption,) built here in imitation of the Grande Chartreuse of Gre- noble. It was part of the estate of the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, and first founded in 1361, for twenty- four monks. After the dissolution, the house passed to the Howard family, who lived and entertained royalty here, until in the early part of the seventeenth century it was sold by Thomas Howard, earl of Suffolk, to Thomas Sutton, esq., citizen and girdler, the founder of the pre- sent noble establishment. This he effected by an outlay of 20,000/., and an endowment of 4,493/. Ids. 10c/. per annum. The number of scholars educated here is seventy- three; of whom forty- four are on the foundation, and twenty-nine students at the universities, with an allow- ance of 20/. per annum for eight years. Boys who give no promise of getting a living by their education are put out apprentices, and have each a sum of 40/. on leaving the school. Eight pensioners are maintained on the endowment, who live in handsome apartments, and have all the necessaries of life provided for them ; in order to enable them to clothe themselves, tlicy have each an allowance of 14/. a-year and a gown. The hospital is managed by a master and sixteen governors. The Charter-house, though a venerable pile, has few vestiges of the ancient conventual building ; the chapel is built principally of brick, and lined with wainscot ; it has two aisles with Gothic windows ; two of these, in the north-wall, contain the arms of Mr. Sutton, in painted glass. There are several monuments in the chapel, j)arti- cularly the tomb of the founder, which was erected at the expense of 400/. The old court-room is of tjie age of Elizabeth, and contains a profusion of colouring ; the hall is spacious, and the apartments for the master convenient. K 2 100 CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, The grounds, which are large, and well laid out, afford a fine promenade, though not one to which the public have access. . MERCHANT TAILORS' SCHOOL Was founded by the company of Merchant Tailors in 1561, on a spot of ground on the east side of Suffolk-lane, Thames-street, formerly called the Manor of Rose, be- longing to the duke of Buckingham. The statutes of this institution provide that 100 boys shall be taught here at 5^. per quarter, fifty at 2^, 6d. per quarter, and 100 or upwards for nothing. The number on the establishment is seldom less than 300. The boys are instructed by a master and three ushers, in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, and other branches of useful and polite learning. Sir Thomas White, who was a member of this com- pany, and lord mayor, in 1 553, anxious to make still fur- ther provision for the youth educated at this establish- ment, founded St. John's College, Oxford, the scholarships of which are supplied from this school, A public exami- nation is held for the purpose every year, by the president and fellows of the college, CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL. This school occupies the site of Honey-lane-market, which was removed in 1835. It was built by the corpo- ration of London, in order to afford a good education at a moderate expense, a citizen named Carpenter having left funds for that purpose many years ago. The edifice was erected from designs by Mr. Bunning, the first stone having been laid by Lord Brougham, Oct. 21, 1835. Independent of endowed schools, the parish schools, the Sunday schools, and those on the system of Bell and Lan- caster, there are upwards of 4,000 private schools in Lon- don and its immediate environs. Upwards of 50,000 are taught gratuitously in the Sunday-schools of London. The British and Foreign School Societies have eighty-six schools in and round London, in which 14,000 children are educated. The number taught in London in the Lan- casterian, national, and infant schools, is supposed to be upwards of 200,000— the total number for all England being between 700,000 and 800,000. The parochial schools in London are about 250 in number, clothing and educating not less than 15,000 more. BRITISH MUSEUM. 101 XIV, Literary and Scientific Institutions, &c, THE BRITISH MUSEUM, Now one of the most splendid national collections in the world of books, antiquities, natural and artificial curiosi- ties, is in Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury. It was esta- blished in 1753, in consequence of Sir Hans Sloane having, by his will, directed his executors ofter to parliament, a collection of books, manuscripts, antiquities, and curiosi- ties, made by him at an expense of upwards of 50,000/. on condition that 20,000/. were paid, and a house pur- chased in which they should be preserved for the public benefit and gratification. The oft'ev was speedily accepted, and the present edifice, then called Montagu House, was purchased by government for 10,000/. It was built for Ralph, first duke of Montagu, by Peter Puget, a cele- brated French architect, who came from Paris for the purpose. I'he principal building, which is on the north side of a spacious quadrangle, concealed from the street by a lofty brick wall, is 21G feet in length, and fifty-seven feet high. The two wings are appropriated to the residence of the officers of the establishment. The exterior is of no posi- tive order of architecture ; but in the interior, the hall is spacious, the staircase ample, and the rooms not only lofty, but the ceilings of several of them painted by Rousseau and Charles de la Fosse. The great staircase was also painted by these two artists. The ceiling, which represents Phaeton petitioning Apollo for lea.ve to drive' his chariot, was painted by De la Fosse, who was eminent for the beauty and cliasteness of his colouring ; the land- scapes and architectural decorations were by Rousseau. A new edifice, designed to supersede the present, is now in the course of erection under the direction of Sir R. Smirke. It is situated at the back of the present building, and is intended to form a quadrangle, more than two sides of which are already completed. The east wing contains the reading-rooms, the MSS. room, and the king's library, a beautiful apartment, 300 feet in length, floored with oak and mahogany, and adorned with a rich ceiling. Above these are the print-room, and the rooms containing tlie birds and collections of minerals. The north wing contains a library, and that portion of the west wing which k3 102 BUTTISH MUSEUM. is complete, comprises, on the ground-floor, the Elgin marbles, and the Egyptian sculptures : and above them, two rooms, containing Etruscan vases, and a fine collec- tion, illustrative of Egyptian manners and customs. The collection of manuscripts at the British Museum, is said to be one of the most numerous and most valuable of any in Europe. It was commenced by Henry VIII., who was anxious to found a royal library, and on the suppression of the religious houses, purchased such manuscripts as Leland and others had rescued from the spoils of the mo- nasteries; this library, which was considerably increased by his successors, continued to be kept in one of the royal palaces until the reign of George II,, who presented it to the British Museum. The Harleian Manscripts are a collection formed by Harley, Lord Oxford, and increased by his son ; they are bound in 7,639 volumes, and include, besides distinct treatises, nearly 40,000 original rolls, letters patent, signs manual, charters with their confirmations, warrants, deeds, and other instruments connected with the history or topo- graphy of the country. Among these, there is a finely illuminated copy of Hardyng*s Chronicle, much more per- fect than Grafton's edition. In this copy, Hardyng, who served Hotspur, and was with him in all his battles, has inserted the letter of defiance sent to King Henry IV., by the earl of Northumberland, his son Henry Hotspur, and his brother the earl of Worcester, previous to the battle of Shrewsbury, The library also contains a very old copy of William of Malmesbury's elaborate treatise De Gestis Regum Anglorum, which was formerly preserved with the most religious care at Rochester; several copies of the Dunstable Chronicle, one of which is beautifully illumi- nated, and another adorned with the blazon of the arms of several emperors and kings. The library is rich in heraldic collections, and includes genealogies and memoirs of most of the British monarchs, a large collection of royal letters and mandates, and a curious volume which formerly belonged to Lord Treasurer Burleigh, It contains a register of the grants, &c., which have passed the privy seal, signet, or sign manual, during the reigns of Edward V, and Richard III,, including 2,378 distinct documents. There are also in this collection several volumes formerly belonging to Sir Simon d'Ewes, the Suffolk antiquary, BRITISH MUSEUM. 103 Stow, the historian of London, Mr. Charles, the Lancaster herald, and the manuscripts of Fox, the martyrologist. This valuable collection of manuscripts was purchased by government, in 17^8, for the sum of 10,000/. The Cottonian Manuscripts were collected by Sir Robert Cotton, a friend of Camden, Lambarde, and other anti- quaries of the seventeenth century. They were originally much more numerous than at present, several having been burnt, when deposited in Dean's-yard, Westminster ; but there are still upwards of 26,000 articles. In this collec- tion is the original Magna Charta, as signed by King John at Runnymede, with the original copy of the articles pre- paratory to the signature, the seal of which is still perfect. The Lansdown Manuscripts^ purchased of the Marquis of Lansdown, in 1807, for 4,925/., contain the Burghley Papers, in 122 volumes, including one of charters and other documents of an early date ; and the Caesar and Kennet Papers, formerly belonging to Sir Julius Csesar, judge of the admiralty to Queen Elizabeth, and to Dr. White Kennet, bishop of Peterborough. They are bound up in 1,245 volumes, and are rich in original letters, and historical, biographical, and heraldic documents. The collections of Sir Hans Sloane and Dr. Birch are also large; that of the former, containing 4,100 volumes, principally on physic, natural history, and natural philo- sophy, with several journals of voyages, and some oriental manuscripts. Those of Dr. Birch, many of which are copies of valuable papers in private collections, are 337 in number, chiefly on history, biography, divinity, and literature. The Har grave Manuscripts^ purchased in 1813, for 8,000/., consist of 499 volumes, which are almost exclu- sively devoted to law. The manuscripts of Dr. Burney, which, with his Hbrary and printed books, were purchased, in 1818, for 13,500/., contain the most complete and valuable copies of Homer's Iliad, a series of the Greek orators, many other classical works, and the Greek Gospels of the tenth and twelfth centuries. Many other manuscripts have been added by gift, be- quest, or purchase, among which are twenty-four volumes of manuscripts, principally oriental, belonging to Brassey Halhed, Esq., M. P, A collection of manuscripts and rolls, 104 BRITISH MUSEUM. consisting of sixty-two articles, relating to Kent, pur- chased of Mr. Hasted, the historian of the county. Fifty- seven volumes of public acts, &c., relating to the history and government of England, from the year 1105 to 1608, collected by Thomas Rymer, but not prmted in his Foedera. Sixty-four volumes of rolls of parliament, which, together with Rymer's papers, were presented by the House of Lords. Forty-three volumes of Icelandic manuscripts, presented by Sir Joseph Banks. Forty-one volumes, con- taining the decisions of the commissioners for settling the City estates after the fire of London, presented by Thomas Cowper, Esq. A collection of forty-seven volumes, relating to the history of Ireland, presented by the Rev. Jeremiah Milles, dean of Exeter. Sir William Musgrave's manu- scripts, forty-four volumes, thirty-two of which consist of an obituary, the rest being a collection of biographical anecdotes, &c., autographs, original warrants, catalogues of portraits, &c., which were bequeathed by the baronet. Manuscripts Of the Rev. Willianl Cole, a Catholic clergyman, principally topographical and anecdotal ; thirty- eight volumes of manuscripts, and nine of drawings, for the history of Sussex, by Sir William Burrell ; twenty- seven volumes of manuscript music, by old composers, presented by James Mathias, Esq. ; twenty-four volumes on the history of music, with a large collection of booksj bequeathed by Sir John Hawkins; a valuable collection of manuscripts, presented by the Rev, Mr. Cracherode, and another by Dr. Askew. The library of printed books is already rich, both in early typography, and rare works of a more recent date; but is constantly increasing in number and value, by purchase, by bequest and gift, and by means of an act of parliament, which, for the public benefit, compels the delivery, by the author or publisher, of five copies of every new work, to the British Museum, and four other institutions. His Majesty, George II., presented the whole of the library gradually collected by our kings, from the reign of Henry VII., to his own; George III. gave a valuable collection of pamphlets, published between 1640 and 1650, relating to the civil wars of the reign of Charles I., a complete set of the Journals of the Lords and Commons, and several single books of great value; George IV. gave the valuable library (collected by his predecessor,) which fills the cases of a BRITISH MUSEUM. 105 splendid room prepared for its reception, in which these books are to be for ever kept separate. In the Museum are also Dr. Burney's collection of newspapers from 1603 to I8I7 ; the library of Sir Joseph Bankes ; and numerous rare works presented by foreign potentates and others. In sculpture the British Museum is particularly rich. The invaluable Greek and Roman antiquities collected by the late Charles Towneley, Esq., (purchased in two portions for 28,200/.) consist of numerous splendid terracottas and marbles. Some fine sculptures of other collectors have been added, especially an exquisite bas-relief representing the deification of Homer, which for many years adorned the Colonna Palace at Rome ; a colossal head of Hercules, dug up at Mount Vesuvius ; a fine collection of Egyptian marbles, many of which were collected by the French, and fell into the hands of the English on the capitulation of Alexandria, and others have been added by Burck- hardt, Belzoni, Salt, and other travellers. The collection called the Elgin marbles, was formed by the earl of Elgin, during his embassy to the Ottoman Porte, and purchased by parliament for 35,000/. These sculptures consist of fifteen of the metopes, and the exterior frieze of the cella of the Parthenon, with numerous other relics of antiquity . from that celebrated temple, as well as from that of Erechtheus. They are generally believed to have been executed from the designs of Phidias, the celebrated Athenian sculptor. The British Museum contains a most extensive collection of minerals, systematically arranged, with numerous spe- cimens of native iron, and fragments of meteoric stones, which have fallen at different times in England and abroad. One portion is a collection of British specimens, each mineral being classified according to its county. Here also is the fine collection of minerals from the Hartz Mountains, formed by George IV., and there are also some fine fossil remains. The walls have recently been adorned with some handsome pictures, chiefly portraits. The collections in natural history are very complete in all its branches — in entomology there are nearly 100,000 specimens. In medals and coins the Museum is also very rich, and the prints, drawings, and engravings (which can only be seen by special permission) are numerous, curious, and valuable. 106 BRITISH MUSEUM. In one room is a curious collection of Penates (or household gods of the ancients), Hindoo, Chinese, and Japanese idols, necklaces, ear-rings, gems, specimens of ancient armour and other antiquities, which formerly be- longed to Sir William Hamilton, together with the cele- brated Barberini, or Portland vase, the most ancient and most beautiful specimen of sculpture in glass that is known to exist. These are the principal curiosities of the Museum, the whole of which (except the library, manuscripts, prints, drawings, and engravings) may be viewed by the public every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday throughout the year, except on Sundays, Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Christmas-day, and any fast or thanksgiving day, and except also between the 1st and 7th of January, the 1st and 7th of May, and the 1st and 7th of September in- clusive. The hours are from ten till seven during May, June, July, and August, and from ten till four during the rest of the year. During Easter, Whitsun, and Christ- mas weeks, the museum is open every day except Satur- day. A catalogue or synopsis of the contents of the Museum may be obtained in the hall, price ]s. Admission to the reading-rooms may be obtained by a written application to Sir H. Ellis, the secretary, accom- panied by a recommendation from some well-known person of respectability, or of some public firm. The privilege, when conferred, entitles the student to take his seat in either of the reading-rooms, and to use (under certain regulations, particulars of which are always supplied) any book or manuscript in the collection. The reading-rooms are open every day, except on Sun- day, Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Christmas-day, and any fast or thanksgiving day, and except also between the 1st and 7th of January, the 1st and 7th May, and the 1st and 7th September inclusive. The hours are from nine to seven during May, June, July, and August, and from nine till four during the rest of the year. The government of the Museum is vested in forty-eight trustees, including twenty-three official trustees, nine family trustees, one royal trustee, and fifteen trustees who are elected by the other thirty-three. The official trustees are the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker of the House of Commons, the Lord President BRITISH MUSEUM. 107 of tlie Council, the First Lord of the Treasury, the Lord Privy Seal, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the Lord Steward, the Lord Chamberlain, the three principal Secre- taries of State, the Bishop of London, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, the Lord Chief Justice of the Queen's Bench, the Master of the Rolls, the Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, the Attorney- General, the Solicitor- General, the President of the Royal Society, the President of the Society of Antiquaries, and the President of the Royal Academy. Of the family trustees, two represent the Sloane, two the Cottonian, two the Harleian, one the Towneley, one the Elgin, and one* the Knight families, by whom they are respectively appointed. The royal trustee is the duke of Northumberland. THE NATIONAL GALLERY, AND ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Trafalgar Square, Are situated in the same building, the former occupying the west, and tlie latter the east wing. This edifice was erected between 1834 and 1837, from designs ley Mr. Wilkms. The front is about 500 feet in length ; in the centre is a noble portico, consisting of eight columns of the Corin- thian order in front, and two in depth, the ascent to which is formed by a flight of steps at each side ; above is an ornamented dome. The portion devoted to the Academy contains, on the ground floor, a sculpture-room, a hall for casts, council- room, library, and keeper's residence; and on the floor above, a lecture-room, fifty-five feet by forty -eight ; school of painting, fifty by thirty -five ; antique academy, fifty by thirty-two ; and two rooms for architecture and models, each thirty-five by nineteen. In these five rooms, and in the sculpture-room on the ground-floor, takes place the annual exhibition of j)aintings, drawings, sculpture, and engravings, the productions generally of nearly a thou- sand exhibitors. Opens first Monday in May, and closes about the end of July. Admission Is, ; Catalogues, 1^. The Royal Academy of Arts was incorporated in De- cember, 1768, on which occasion Mr. Reynolds (afterwards Sir Joshua) was knighted, and appointed its first president. It consists of forty academicians, twenty associates, and 108 NATIOITAL GALLERY. six associate engravers. The objects of the institution are, to promote the arts of painting in all its branches, sculp- ture, and architecture. Of the forty academicians, five are appointed professors of anatomy ^ of painting^ of sculp' iure, of architecture, and of perspective ; and each of these professors delivers six lectures to the students during the winter season. Silver prize medals for the best academy figures and drawings of buildings, are given once a year, and gold medals for the best historical paintings, the best sculpture, and the best architectural design, once in two years. All academicians, associates, and exhibitors are entitled to attend the lectures, and other persons with an academician's, or an associate's order. The pupils have the advantage of studying from the natural figure, as well as from many valuable antique casts and models, and from pictures of, and copies from, the old masters. The west wing comprises, on the upper floor, five apart- ments, exactly similar to those of the Royal Academy, and on the ground floor, halls, intended for the exhibition of casts from the antique, keeper's apartments, &c. In these rooms are deposited the collection of pictures form- ing the National Gallery, originally commenced in Pall- mall, in 1824, with the pictures of Mr. Angerstein, pur- chased by parliament, and since increased by various purchases and donations from noblemen and gentlemen. Sir George Beaumont, Rev. Holwell Carr, Lord Farnbo- rough, and Lieut. -Colonel Ollney, all bequeathed pictures to this gallery. Amongst the most admired pictures are the Resurrection of Lazarus, by Sebastian del Piombo, part of which, how- ever, was printed by Michael Angelo ; the Holy Family, by Murillo; Mercury instructing Cupid in the presence of Venus, by Correggio; the Ecce Homo, by Correggio; Christ disputing with the Doctors, by Leonardo da Vinci ; the Holy Family, by Correggio; the Consecration of St. Nicholas, by Paul Veronese ; Pope Julius II., by Raphael ; the Vision of St. Jerome, by Parmegiani ; Bacchus and Ariadne, by Titian ; Abduction of the Sabine Women, by Rubens ; Woman taken in Adultery, by Rembrandt ; Portrait of Gevartius, by Vandyke; a Bacchanalian Dance, by N. Poussin ; the Holy Family, by Sir J. Reynolds; the Graces, by the same master; Mercury and the Woodman, by Salvator Rosa; Pan teaching soan"i:an museum. 109 Apollo, by A. Caracci ; the Blind Fiddler, and the Village Festival, by Wilkie ; the Four Ages of Man, by Lancret ; Marriage a la Mode, by Hogarth ; Views in Venice, by Canaletti ; and Christ healing the Sick, by West. There are also exquisite landscapes by Claude, Gains- borough, Wilson, Hubens, G. Poussin, N. Poussin, Cuyp, Both, Dominichino, Sir G. Beaumont, and Constable ; and portraits by Vander Heist, Rembrandt, Vandyke, Velasquez, Hogarth, Sir J. Reynolds, Lawrence, West, and Beechey. The National Gallery is open to the public on the first four days of each week, from ten till dusk. The other two days are devoted to students. A catalogue of the pictures may be obtained in the hall. THE SOANEAN MUSEUM, Lincoln's Inn Fields, The house of the late Sir John Soane, Professor of Archi- tecture in the Royal Academy, the Museum of Antiqui- ties which it contains, books, manuscripts, and pictures, are now public property, in pursuance of the will of their late proprietor, who has, besides, endowed the gift with the sum of 30,000/., in order that it may be properly main- tained. Visitors are admitted by tickets only, under certain regu- lations, which are occasionally advertised. The house was built by the late proprietor in 1792, and afterwards embellished by him both externally and inter- nally, according to his own taste and fancy. It is entered by a porch of double doors. The vestibule and staircase are coloured in the manner of an Italian loggia^ the former in imitation of porphyry, and the latter oi giallo antico. The parlour is fitted up as both library and eating-room. Here are some curious chairs, many architectural drawings by Sir John Soane, several bronzes ajid vases, pieces of sculpture, and other articles of vertu. Among the pic- tures is a fine portrait of Sir John Soane, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The breakfast-room is small, but elegant, having a flat- tened dome ceiling, crowned and lighted by a lantern. The side-walls are adorned with architectural drawings. This apartment has seven doors, four of which communicate L no SOANEAN MUSEU^r. with tlie Museum^ and two open into small cabinets^ filled with curiosities. The Museum consists of two stories or floors. The lower floor is termed the Sarcophagus Moom, from its containing a large Sarcophagus, found by Belzoni in a cave at Gour- nou, on the Nile, and bought of him by Sir John Soane for the sum of 2,000/. The Sarcophagus Room is fitted up in the form of a Roman cemetery, with apertures in the walls, containing antique urns, busts, candelabra, frag- ments of sculpture, &c. The Picture Cabinet is a handsome apartment, the lower part of which is formed by mahogany, inlaid with ebony, and divided into compartments. Here are some pictures, models, and statues. The next apartment is the Mo7ik''s Parlour^ fitted up in the style of the sixteenth century. In the centre is a small table, on which stands a lamp, ready for nocturnal lucu- brations, and the character of the room is sustained in every detail. The monk only is wanting. Opposite the table is a spacious window, richly painted with twenty subjects in chiaro oscuro, in compartments. On the first floor are two drawing-rooms, (or rather two in one) fitted up with much taste, in a plain unaffected style. In these rooms is a valuable series of architectural models in cork, one of which represents the ruins of Pompeii. About the house, in every corner of the staircase even, are niches for statues, and other articles of antiquity and virtu, which it is impossible for us to notice in detail. The Poyal Society (Somerset Housfe) originated in the meetings, during the Commonwealth, of some of the literati of Oxford, and was incorporated by Charles II. This society publishes its "Transactions" annually. It pos- sesses a good library, and a valuable collection of mathe- matical instruments, &c. The Royal Institution, Albemarle-street, was founded in 1799, for the promotion of science, at the suggestion of Count Rumford. This society also possesses valuable books and scientific apparatus. Lectures are delivered here on science and literature. The jRoyal Society of Literature (St, Martin's-place,) SOCIETY OF ANTiaUARIES. Ill was established in 1821^ under the patronage of George IV., for the advancement of literature. Its grand objects are, to reward and excite literary merit by patronage and premiums, to promote literary education, to fix the standard, as far as is possible, and preserve the purity of the English language, to republish ancient works of value, and to assist in publishing such modern productions as, though of great intrinsic worth, are not of a character to attract the attention of ordinary publishers. The Biitish Institution (Pall-mall) was established in 1805, for the annual exhibition of paintings of British artists intended for sale, and for permitting the study of the works of old masters, lent to the institution by its generous patrons. It is supported by subscription, and by the charge of Is, for admission. The Society of British Artists (Suffolk-street, Pall-mall East) was opened in 1824, for the annual exhibition and sale of the works of living painters and sculptors. Its rooms are admirably adapted for the purpose. The exhi- bition usually opens in Spring, for two or three months. Admission \s, ; catalogue 1^. The Society of Painters in Water Colours (Pall-mall East) was established in 1804, its members and associates only being permitted to exhibit their paintings. Admission, l^i ; catalogue, 6«/. The Society of Water Colour Artists (Pall-mall) arose in 1832, out of the exclusiveness of the Pall-mall East Society, to which it opposes an honourable rivalry, at the same price of admission. The Society of Antiquaries (Somerset-house) was ori- ginally founded in 1572, and revived in 1717. It was incorporated by George II. in 17^1? and is governed by a president, four vice-presidents, a council, and twenty-one fellows, with members unlimited. The papers read at the meetings of this society are published m their Archseologia. In the library are many curious antiques. The Society for the Encouragement of Arts, ManufaC' iures, and Commerce (Adelphi), by giving premiums for useful inventions, discoveries, &c., is a valuable institu- tion, the members of which have the advantage of a good library, a fine collection of models, and a volume of the Transactions," which are published annually. The meeting for the distribution of prizes is on the last Tues- L 2 312 LONDON INSTITUTION. day in May. In the principal room is a series of paintings, by Barry, intended to illustrate the principle that the attainment of happiness depends upon the cultivation of the human faculties. The pictures and models may be seen by an order from one of the members of the society. The Zoological Society (office and museum in Leicester- square) was established a few years since, and is supported by the annual contributions of its members, and the money taken for the admission of strangers into its gardens in Kegent's-park. — See RegenVs-park, The Naval and Military Museum and Library (White- liah-yard) was established in 1833, and already possesses a good collection of books and curiosities. The London Institution (Circus, Moorfields) was com- menced in January, 1806. The objects of this association (which admits members on payment of an annual subscrip- tion) are, the acquisition of a valuable library, the exten- sion of knowledge by means of lectures and experiments, and the maintenance of a good reading-room for periodical and other publications, English and foreign. The library is now very extensive, and particularly rich in topography. The Russell Institution (Great Coram-street) embraces the same objects as the London, on a smaller scale. Here are an extensive library, a news-room, and frequent scien- tific and literary lectures. Subscribers admitted at 3/. 3^. per annum. The Western Literary and Scientific Institution, Lei- cester-square; the City of London Literary Institution^ Aldersgate-street ; and the Southward Literary Institution^ were established with the common object of diffusing literature and science amongst professional and mercantile young men. The Mechanics' Institute (Southampton-buildings) is an association of great efficacy in diffusing knowledge among mechanics and others of the middle class. The Gresham Lectures are delivered, during term-time, gratuitously, at the City of London School. They com- prise divinity, law, physic, astronomy, geometry, music, and rhetoric. The Red'CrosS'Street Library, founded in 1716, for dis- senting ministers, contains 17,000 volumes, to which access may be obtained by the order of a trustee. Sion College (London-wall), founded in 1623, for the COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, 113 advantage of the London clergy, has a good library, and almshouses for twenty poor persons. The Linncean Society (Soho-square), incorporated in 1802, have published several volumes of " Transactions,'* the seventh containing their regulations and bye -laws. The Geological Society (Somerset-house), for investi- gating the structure of the earth, the principles of mine- ralogy, &c., also publishes its " Transactions." The Royal Geographical Society y incorporated in 1831, publishes "Transactions," explaining its objects, &c. The Royal Asiatic Society (Graf ton-street. Bond-street) was established for the investigation and promotion of the arts, science, and literature in Asia. It has a good li- brary and museum. The Horticultural Society {RegQni'^ivQQi^ was instituted in 1804, for promoting horticultural knowledge, and im- proving the productions in the vegetable kingdom; it has a large garden at Turnham-green. The Incorporated Law Society (Chancery-lane) has a good library and special professional objects. There are even still some associations which our limited space pre- cludes us from noticing. The College of Physicians (Pall-mall East) was esta- blished in the reign of Henry VI 1 1.^ when the number of members was limited to thirty. Charles II. increased the number to forty; and James II. extended it to eighty. No person can be chosen a fellow without having taken the degree of bachelor or doctor of medicine, at Oxford or at Cambridge; nor can any one be admitted a licentiate without studying two years at an English university, or obtaining a diploma from Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Dublin, and submitting to an examination as to his professional knowledge before the censors of the college. The college was formerly located in Warwick-lane, in the city, but was removed, in 1823, to the present edifice, which was erected from designs by Sir R. Smirke. The apartments are adorned with busts and portraits of emi- nent medical men. The Royal College of Surgeons (Llncoln's-inn-fields) was incorporated in 1800, being then first separated from the Barber Surgeons. Their hall is a spacious and handsome building, rebuilt in 1837. Here is a fine museum, among the treasures of which is the extensive collection of the 114 THEATRES. celebrated John Hunter ; Sir Jos. Banks, Sir W. Blizard, and Sir E. Home, have also contributed largely to this museum, which may be viewed on certain days of the week, by application to the curators. The Apothecaries^ Company (Blackfriars) was incorpo- rated in 161 7, for the sale of drugs and medicine, and the licensing of apothecaries. The Medical Society (Bolt-court, Fleet-street) was formed in 1773. Dr. Lettsom was one of its first members, and presented to the institution the present house. This society has a good medical library. The Medical and Chirurgical Society (Lincoln's-inn- fields) is a similar association, having an extensive library on surgery as well as medicine. The Veteriyiary College was instituted with the object of forming a school of veterinary science, in which the anatomical structure of quadrupeds of all kinds, the dis- eases to which they are subject, and the remedies proper to be applied, may be regularly studied. The college is at Camden Town, XV. Theatres, Concerts, Exhibitions, &e. THEATRES. Drury Lane Theatre has its front in Brydges-street. It was built in 1811, on the site of a former theatre, which was burnt down in 1809, but the interior was entirely remodelled in 1822, and has since been, at various times, renovated. The exterior has but little ornament, but the interior is remarkably elegant and well-contrived. This house is capable of containing upwards of 3,000 persons. The performances for the season, usually commence in September, and terminate in July. Doors open at half- past six, and performances commence at seven o'clock. Covent Garden Theatre is in Bow-street, and was rebuilt in 1809, the former edifice having been burnt down in 1808. The architecture of this theatre is mfinitely superior to that of Drury-lane ; it is of the Grecian Doric style, and was designed by Smirke. The expense was 150,000/. The interior of this theatre is both elegant and convenient, but is continually receiving some fresh alteration or im- provement. The season for performing, and the houi'S gf opening, are the same here as at Drury-lane. THEATRES. 115 The Qtieeii^s Theatre, or Italian Opera-house, is in the Haymarket; it was burnt down on the 17th June, 17^9, and on the 3rd April, 1790, the first stone of the present structure was laid, by the Earl of Buckinghamshire. The architect was M. Novosielski. The exterior of this build- ing is gloomy and inelegant, notwithstanding alterations made in 1820 by Mr. Nash and Mr. G. Repton. The colonnade on three sides of the building, and the emble- matic figures, in bas-relief, by Mr. Bubb, must, however, be admitted to be most essential improvements. The interior, which has been but little altered since its original construction, is extensive and magnificent. The stage is sixty feet deep, and eighty wide. The pit will hold 800 persons ; the boxes, 900 ; the gallery, 800. The boxes are, all of them, either private property, or let for the season to fashionable families. They will each hold six persons, and are furnished with chairs, and inclosed by curtains. This theatre is devoted exclusively to music, chiefly of the Italian school, and dancing, chiefly French ; both in the first degree of excellence. It is open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, only, from about February till the end of August ; the performances commence at eight o'clock. The Hay market Theatre was first built in 1720, by a speculating mechanic, named Potter, with the view of letting it to foreign players and singers. A new theatre was afterwards raised on the same site, by the celebrated Foote, which was opened in 1767. It was taken down in 1820, and the present edifice erected in its stead, from designs by Mr. Nash ; it was first opened on the 4th July, 1821. In the front is a portico, supported by six columns. The English Opera House, now in Exeter-street, Strand, was formerly on the north side of the Strand itself. The first theatre, which occupied the Strand site, and was called the Lyceum, was opened in 1807, but did not receive the patronage to which so laudable an attempt was entitled ; the plan was, therefore, afterwards extended so as to in- clude other performances besides operas. In 1808, the Lyceum was let by Mr. Arnold to the Drury-lane Com- pany, during the rebuilding of their theatre ; in 1815, it was taken down, and a new one built, from designs by 116 THEATHES. Mr. Beazley; this was opened in 1816, and destroyed by fire in March, 1830. After considerable delay before the site could be fixed on, the erection of the present theatre commenced, but it was not until 1834, that it was opened. The Surrey Theatre is at the extreme end of Black- friars-road. It was first built in 1779, for burlettas and horsemanship, and then called the Royal Circus. In 1805, it was burnt down, but was soon rebuilt. It was rented, a few years since, by Mr. EUiston, who set the example here of performances for the minor theatres dif- fering but little from those of the major. The Victoria Theatre ^2^^ built in 1816, and then called the Royal Coburg. It is situate at the end of the Waterloo- bridge-road, and is a spacious edifice of but little external elegance, though exceedingly well arranged within. The performances here resemble those of the Surrey. Astlet/^s Amphitheatre is on the Surrey side of West- minster-bridge, and has long been famed for the exhibi- tion of spectacles and equestrian feats. This is decidedly the most fashionable of the minor theatres on the south side of the Thames, receiving a steadier share of the public patronage than any other dramatic establishment in Lon- don, maintaining its prices, and being generally full. It is open from Easter Monday till the end of autumn. The Adelphi Theatre is in the Strand, and originated in the fact that Mr. Scott, an oilman on the spot, had private theatricals at the back of his residence, which became so attractive, that he was induced to build this theatre. It was opened to the public, under licence from the Lord Chamberlain, for burlettas, ballets, and pantomimes, and has ever since received considerable patronage. The St, Jameses Theatre (King-street, St. James's- square) was erected in 1836, from designs by Mr. Beazley. The Olympic Theatre is in Newcastle-street, in the Strand, and is a very neat little house, rendered of late years peculiarly attractive by the management of Madame Vestris. The Queeri^s Theatre is in Tottenham-street, Totten- ham-court-road, and was formerly called the Regency , and the Tottenham-street Theatre, V Sadler's Wells is at the top of the St. .John-street-road, near the New River Head, Islington ; and was long cele- brated for its current of water flowing under the stage. CONCERTS. 117 which enabled the proprietors to exhibit naval pageants on " real water." This attraction is now but seldom resorted to, melo-dramas, biirlettas, and pantomimes being the favourite performances. This theatre opens on Easter Monday, and continues so for nearly the whole of the year. The other theatres in London are comparatively insig- nificant. Independent of the music at the theatres, there are numerous concerts in London, some given by subscription at taverns and public rooms, and others which take place periodically, in buildings which are devoted almost exclu- sively to such entertainments. The principal established concerts are those of Ancient Music and the Philharmonic; but many others are given in London, during the fashion- able season of the year, at Willises Rooms, St. Jameses, the Hanover Square Rooms, the Freemasons^ Tavern, the Crown and Anchor, and the London and City of London Taverns. There are also several minor, but meritorious associations, for the cultivation of musical science, such as the Sacred Harmonic Society, which meets at Exeter Hall ; the Cecilian Society, at Albion Hall, Moorfields, &c. ; and to this catalogue must be added the Oratorios, which take place annually at the principal theatres during Lent, the splendid music at some of the Catholic chapels on Easter Sunday and other festival days, and the musical enter- tainments provided at the tea-gardens round London, as White Conduit House, Islington, and the Grecian Saloon, City-road. The ApoUonicon, St. Martin's-lane, is a grand musical instrument, exhibited daily, and on Saturdays during the season, which is advertised in the newspapers, an eminent professor is engaged to play. Admission, 1^. Several of the institutions which we have enumerated supply part of the permanent ''sights of London;'* to which we may add the Colosseum, Regent's-park, exhi- biting an unrivalled panorama of London, for Is,, with curiosities and choice plants, and other attractions ; the Diorama (Regent's-park), boxes, 3s, ; i^it, 2^. ; supplying views exquisitely varying in light and shade ; the Cos- morama, Regent-street, a similar exhibition, with views of both modern subjects and antiquities, seen through magni- fying glasses ; Burford's Panorama, Leicester-squar§ 118 ST&HTS OF LONDON. (l5.), exhibiting views of cities, or battles, different every j^ear, and always well executed. Miss Linwood^s Gallery^ Leicester-sc[iiare (admission I5.) consisting of copies in needlework of some of the finest pictures, and some inte- resting scenic delusions. Mad, Tussaud's Wax-work (ad- mission to the whole, \s, 6d.), King-street, Portman- square, the best collection of the kind ever exhibited in London; consisting of full-length figures of illustrious characters, dressed as in life, and being excellent like- nesses. The best time for visiting this exhibition is of an evening, when the rooms are lighted up so as to give the best effect to the wax-work, and the company enlivened by music and singing. The Surrey Zoological Gardens, at Walworth, were esta- blished in 1832, by a society in conjunction with Mr. Cross, who removed to them the collection of animals formerly kept at Exeter 'Change. The grounds are taste- fully laid out, and the animals are exhibited in a conser- vatory, 300 feet in circumference. Fancy fairs, ascents in balloons, displays of fireworks, &c., occasionally take place here, notice of which is advertised in the news- papers. Admission, Is, The Gallery of Practical Science, Lowther Arcade, is an exhibition of models, and designs of inventions and improvements in the various branches of science; Lectures are also delivered here. Admission, Is, The Polytechnic Institution, Regent' street, is similar in its objects to the preceding. A NEW POCKET GUIDE TO THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON, WITHIN THE CIRCUIT OF TWENTY-FIVE MILES. As the recent construction of Railways affords facilities, hitherto unknown, for visiting some of the chief objects of interest near London, we shall commence our description of the Environs, with a short notice of such portions of them as are included within the limits of our work. The hours at which the various trains leave the stations are constantly advertised in the newspapers. The Birmingham Railway was first opened in July, 1837, as far as Boxmoor, about twenty-four miles from London. It commences at Euston-grove, Euston-square, where there is a very noble entrance, comprising warehouses, offices, &c. ; and then passes by Primrose-hill, Kilburn, and Twyford, to the first station at Harrow. Thence it proceeds by Stanmorg to Watford, from which there are coaches to St. Alban's. Beyond Watford it passes nearly parallel with the Grand Junction Canal to Boxmoor. The Southampton Railway was opened as far as Woking- common, near Guildford, in May, 1838. It commences at Nine Elms, near Vauxhall-bridge, and passes by Wands- worth, Merton, "Wimbledon, Kingston, Walton, and Byfleet, to Woking, thus affording access to some of the most beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood of the metropolis ; as well as an easy mode of visiting the palace of Hampton Court. The station at Ditton, where passengers may be put down, is about two miles from the palace. The Great Western Railway was opened as far as Maiden- 120 Hail WAYS. head, June 4, 1838. It commences at VVestbourne-green, near Paddington, where there are spacious warehouses for receiving goods, and offices for booking passengers to the various places on the line. This railway, after crossing the Hobbaynes and WharnclifFe canals by two viaducts each of eight arches, proceeds nearly due west, leaving Kensall- green and Wormwood-scrubs on the right, and the village of Acton on the left, to Ealing. It then passes by Hanwell, Southall and Drayton, through a beautifully wooded district, to Langley, whence the lofty towers of Windsor become visible. Thence it proceeds by Slough and Salt-hill to Maidenhead, where it crosses the Thames. The terminus of this railway is at Bristol. Passengers can be put down at Drayton and at Slough, so that this railway affords great facilities to persons going to Uxbridge or Windsor, the former being only two and a half miles from Drayton, and the latter not more than two miles from Slough. The Greenwich Railway will be found under the article Greenwich. In addition to the preceding, there is the Croydon Railway ^ which branches off from the Greenwich Railway at Deptford, and is partly carried along the bed of the old Croydon canal, and the Eastern Cou7ities Railway, commencing in Globe- fields, Mile-end-road, and intended to extend to Harwich. ABBOTS' LANGLEY, in Herts, five miles from St. Alban's, and twenty from London, is situate on a hill, on the Biver Bulbourne. The manor anciently belonged to the Abbey of St. Alban's, whence the prefix of Abbots, Near the village, on an eminence, stands Langley Bury, a mansion built by Lord Chief Justice Raymond. Langley House is the seat of General Dyce. See Cecil Lodge, ABRIDGE, is a handsome village in Essex, near Ongar, forming a continuation of Lambourne, and being the most pleasant and populous part of that parish. Here is a chapel of ease and a Wesleyan meeting-house. AC TON, East and West, Middlesex, the latter a village. ACTOX. 121 mid the former a liamlet thereto, both five miles west from London, on the road to Uxbridge; The parish is supposed to derive its name from the quantity of oak-timber it pro- duced ; in the Saxon language, signifying an oak ; and the hedge-rows still abound with that tree. Half a mile from East Acton are three wells of mineral water, which, about the middle of the last century, were in repute for their medicinal virtues ) and the assembly-room was then a place of great fashionable resort. The site of the wells is the property of the Duke of Devonshire; the assembly-room has been converted into tenements. At Acton, resided Francis, Lord Rous, one of Cromwell's peers ; and on the site of this house, now stands a modern mansion, called the Bank House, lately the residence of Mrs. Payne. Richard Baxter, the celebrated non-confonnist di- vine, resided also many years in a house, which was pulled down some years ago, near the church, where he constantly ^ittended divine service, and sometimes preached, having a license for so doing, provided he uttered nothing against the doctrines of the Church of England. The great and good Sir Matthew Hale, was his contemporary at Acton, and intimate with him. The celebrated parliamentary general, Skippon, resided also in a house near the church, now pulled down, and a new mansion erected on its site. On the left-hand of the entrance of the village, from London, is Berry-mead Lodge, with extensive grounds. This house, which some years ago was altered into the modem Gothic style, was formerly the residence of William Saville, Marquess of Halifax, who died here in 1700. Among several monuments in the church, is one to the memory of Anne, Lady Southall, who died in 1636. On each side of the monument, hangs a wooden tablet, in- scribed with panegyrical verses. At the entrance of Acton, on the London side, is a Conduit, made for the benefit of the public, and endowed by Thomas Thorney, in 1612. A public school for the orphan sons of the clergy, has, within these few years, been transferred from Yorkshire to M 122 ADDINGTON. this place. The Uxb ridge Canal passes East Acton, and half a mile from the Well-house is the Mitre, built for the accommodation of travellers by the Paddington passage - boats. ADDING TON, a village in Surrey, about three miles east from Croydon, at the foot of a range of hills of nearly 500 acres, to which it gives its name. There were anciently two manors in this parish, one of which was, and still is, holden by the singular tenure of presenting a certain dish to the king at his coronation. Mr. Lysons accounts for this custom, by supposing that the manor was anciently an appendage to the office of the king's cook, as Shene (Richmond) anciently was to the office of baker. Tzelin, the cook, held it of the Conqueror ; in the reign of Henry III., it was holden by one Cheney, by the service of *' finding a cook to dress such victuals in the king's kitchen as the Seneschal shall order.'* His successor held by the service of making hastias in the king's kitchen on the day of coronation, or of finding a person who should make for him a certain pottage called the mess of Gyron, or if seym (fat) be added to it, called maupygernon." Sir Robert Aguillon held it by precisely the same service, and the dish is mentioned by the same name (viz. le mess de Gyron) in the pleas of the crown ; though Blount has quoted it by the name of dilligrout ; and Aubrey has copied his mistake. Thomas Bardolf, who died seised of Addington, in the reign of Edward III., held it by the service of making three messes of maupygernon at the coronation, one of which he was to present to the king, another to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the third to whomsoever the king would. The service is still kept up, and a dish of dilligrout was presented to the late king (George the Fourth) at his coronation, by the deputy ap- pointed by the lord of the manor. The dish was prepai'ed by the king's master-cook. A plot of ground near the church, still called the Castle- hill, is pointed out as the site of the fortified and embattled ST, A lean's. 123 mansion-house attached to this manor. It was pulled down about fifty years ago. On the brow of the hill, towards the village, is a cluster of small tumuli, from which pieces of Roman urns and other remains have been taken ^ and, indeed, this place appears to have been formerly much more considerable than at present, as ruins have often been discovered in ploughing. The church of Addington is a small ancient structure, rebuilt apparently about the reign of Edward III. The massive ancient pillars which separate the nave, &c., from the body, are of rude work- manship and curious, and the windows in the north wall are remarkable. There are some monuments of the 15th and 16th centuries. About half a mile from the church, is Addington-place, the summer residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury, bought by government in 1807, for that purpose, instead of building a new palace at Croydon. It is a handsome modern building, in the centre of a park, with a private chapel attached to the mauwsion, and agree- able pleasure-grounds. ADDISCOMBE PLACE, (now College^) Surrey, was purchased in 1809, of the Earl of Liverpool, by the Hon, East-India Company, many buildings added, and the whole converted into a seminary for the education of cadets for the military service of India. The number of students here, is usually about 100 ; they are instructed in drawing, mathematics, fortification, artillery, and military tactics, the oriental language, French, and the classics. Candi- dates for admission must be fourteen years of age, and not exceeding eighteen, and must previously be acquainted with English grammar and arithmetic, and be able to write. The expense for the first year is about 50/. , afterwards, 30/. per annum. A LBAN'S, ST., an ancient borough and market-town in Herts, twenty. one miles north from London, seated on the River Ver. This was a chief city of Britain, and the resi- dence of British princes before the invasion of Julius Csesar; after which, it was called Verulamium. The 124 ST. ALBAN^S. Romans added walls to the British defence of earthen ramparts and ditches, and erected Verulam into a munici- pium, or city enjoying equal privileges with the Roman capital ; which so attached the British citizens to the Roman government, that this place consequently felt the vengeance of Queen Boadicea, who here, and at London, destroyed 70,000 persons in the most cruel manner ! Sue- tonius Paulinus, the Roman governor, in return for her barbarity, attacked her forces, and put 80,000 to the sword. Verulam w^as then rebuilt, and the inhabitants enjoyed their privileges till the Dioclesian persecution, A. D. 304; when the city was again rendered famous by the martyr- dom of its citizen, St. Alban. When the Saxons gained footing in Britain, Verulam was among their first con- quests, being by them denominated Werlamcester, or Wat- lingceaster. Many vast fragments of the Roman masonry remain in the walls of the ancient station, the area of which, according to Dr. Stukeley's measurement, is 5,200 feet in length, and 3,000 in breadth. At present, it is divided into several fields ; but vestiges of the buildings are still to be traced, by the thinness of the turf over those parts where the streets ran : near the high road is an im- mense fragment of the wall, now called Gorhambury Block. After various revolutions, this vast city fell to decay ; and from its ruins, rose the present St. Alban's. This town, which is situated on a more elevated spot of ground than the old city, was formerly a wood, named Holmhurst. It obtained its greatest prosperity from the stately abbey, in honour of St. Alban, w^hose relics were miraculously discovered by OfFa, King of Mercia, after his unprovoked murder of St. Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, whom he had invited to his court to be his son-in- law. From OfFa's subsequent compunction arose this mag- nificent abbey and monastery, for Benedictine or black monks : and, after his time, it was greatly enlarged in successive ages. Its abbots were dignified with a mitre, and had precedency of all others in England : they were ST. lean's. 125 subject to none. Not a vestige, however, of this splendid foundation is now left, excepting the abbey-church, and a large square gateway, opening with a spacious low-pointed arch. All the monastic buildings were pulled down in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Edward VI.; but the church, to the lasting honour of the corporation and inhabitants, was rescued from impending destruction, and purchased by them of the latter sovereign for 400L This venerable fabric was then made parochial. It has lately been again rescued from the hands of the Vandals, and renovated with great success, by the voluntary subscriptions of the nobility and gentry of England. On approaching the town, either from London, Dunstable, or Watford, it still arrests the traveller's attention, and forms a fine feature in every prospect. This structure is in the form of a cross ; its entire length, including the chapel of the Virgin, and west porch, is 539 feet ; that of the transept 174 feet ; the height of the tower 144 feet, of the body sixty-five, and the breadth of the nave seventy-four feet six inches. The tower and central parts are in the Norman style, the whole fabric having been rebuilt soon after the Conquest, chiefly with materials collected from ancient Verulam. The objects for the ingenuity of the artist in and about this place are many and various ; and had it not been for numerous devastations, the monuments and brasses would have been a fund of amusement for the antiquary ; but, alas! only one of the brass monuments, of particular value, has escaped the general wreck. This is a handsome plate, twelve feet by four, of Abbot de la Mare, who lived in the reign of Edward III. This abbot, in his robes, curiously engraven, with appropriate ornaments, affords a capital specimen of sculpture in that reign. Facing the entrance of the south door is the elegant monument of Humphrey, (Duke of Gloucester) brother to King Henry Y, It is adorned with a ducal qoronet, and the arms of France and England quartered. In niches on M 3 126 ST. A lean's. one side are seventeen kings: but in the niches on the other side there are no statues remaining. Before this monument is a strong iron grating, to prevent the sculp- ture with which it is adorned from being defaced. The inscription, in Latin, alludes to the pretended miraculous cure of a blind man detected hy the duke, and also to the foundation, hy the duke, of the Divinity School at Oxford. In the chancel is a vault, discovered in 1703, in which the duke was buried, having been preserved in a strong saline fluid. Immediatelv^ on the left hand, is a raised stone, covered with black marble : by the five crosses on the top, it is generally supposed to be one of the altar-stones, with which the church formerly abounded. In the floor, on the left side of the vestry-room door, are deposited the re- mains of several of the Maynard family, some of whom were titled Barons Uston. On a board, against the wall, is some curious poetry to their memory. The shrine of St. Alban stood in the east part of the church, now the presbytery : in the pavement are six holes, wherein the supporters of it were fixed : the follow- ing inscription is also to be seen : — St. Albanus Verolamensis, Anglorum Protomartyr, 17 Junii, 297. Near this place, between two pillars, is a recess, built of wood, called " The watch-room," in which the monks attended to receive the donations of numerous devotees, as well as to guard the riches of the shrine. Beneath this building, are deposited some antiquities, and two stone coffins, with their lids, one of which was found near the pillar, in the nave, on which is inscribed an account of Sir John Mandeville, the greatest traveller of his time. Here the archdeacon holds his court, it being separated from the part appropriated for public worship by a beautiful stone screen, richly sculptured : on the north of this screen is the stately monument of Abbot Ramryge^ who was ST. ALBAN S, 127 elected in 1492. The fronts are of most delicate open arched work, with niches above for statues ; and in many parts are carved two rams, with the w^ord ryge on their collars, in allusion to the abbot's name. This magnificent piece of sculpture, as well as the screen of the high altar, is much admired. Near it is the tomb of the liberal Whethamstead, who w^as twice abbot, and died in 1460. On the opposite side, just before the door, are the remains of a brass plate on a stone, in the floor, of the valiant Abbot Frederic, next heir to the crown after Canute, who made a bold stand against the Norman Conqueror. Close by the last -mentioned monument is a brass plate to the memory of Sir Anthony Grey, of Groby, knighted by Henry VI., at Colney ; but slain next day, at the second battle of St. Alban's, February the 17th, 1461. St. Cuth- bert's Screen is still standing, and is finely sculptured. Near the west door, on the wall, is a Latin inscription, setting forth, that, during the pestilence in London, in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, the courts of justice were held in this abbey. In this edifice was an ancient painting of King Oflfa, who was represented seated on a throne, with a Latin inscription, thus translated : — The founder of the Church, about the year 795, Whom you behold ill painted on his throne Subhme, was once for Mercian Offa known ! Not the least vestige remains of the abbey built by Oflfa, of whose munificence, a murder was the true source : he invited Ethelbert, Prince of the East-Angles, to his court, on pretence of marrying him to his daughter, be- headed him, and seized his dominions. The pious Oflfa had recourse to the usual expiation of murder in those melancholy ages, the founding of a monastery. To the south of St. Stephen's church are the remains of the church and house of St. Julian, founded for lazaars by Gaufridus, Abbot of St. Alban's. There are two other churches at St. Alban's, besides that of St. Stephen \ viz^ St. Peter's and St. Miehael's. 128 sr. A-LBAH'S. St. Peter's Church, which stands on the north-east side of the town, has been substantially repaired since the year 1803. Among the memorials in the nave are some lines, (written by Dr. N. Cotton, the ingenious author of " Visions, in verse,'* who was himself buried in the church- yard,) in commemoration of Robert Clavering, M.B, of Christ Church, Oxon, who died, aged 29, in 1747. In the church of St. Michael (which stands within the walls of ancient Verulam) is the monument of the illus- trious Viscount St. Alban, (more commonly, but erro- neously, styled Lord Bacon,) whose effigy is in alabaster, sitting in a contemplative attitude, within a niche. There is a Latin inscription, by Sir Henry Wotton, of which the following is a translation : — " Francis Bacon, Baron of Verulam, Viscount St. Alban's, or, by more conspicuous titles, of Science the Light, of Eloquence the Law, sat thus: who, after all natural wisdom and secrets of civil life he had unfolded, nature's law fulfilled, * Let compounds be dissolved !' in the year of our Lord 1626, of his age 66. Of such a man, that the memory might remain, Thomas Meautys, Living, his At- tendant ; Dead, his Admirer ; placed this monument." In the centre of St. Alban's stood one of the magnificent crosses, erected by Edward I., in honour of his queen, Eleanor. An open octagonal building was erected in its stead, in 1703, which retains the name of The Cross," though now used as a butter and poultry market. On the Ver River is a curious mill, erected for the pur- pose of polishing diamonds, but now employed in the cot- ton manufactory. The manufacture of silk was intro- duced here about seventeen years ago. On its banks, also, is Holywell House, a seat of the Spencer family, and for- merly the residence of the late Countess Dowager Spencer, built by Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, who here founded nine alms-houses for thirty-six persons. In Holywell House is preserved the portrait of the duchess, in white, together with other good pictures. Near the town are ALBURY* 129 traces of a Roman fortification, supposed to have been the camp of Ostorius, the propraetor : the common people call it *' The Oyster Hills but Mr. Pennant, who calls this hury, or mount, Osterhill, conjectures it to have been the site of the Saxon Palace named Kingsbury. St. Alban's is famous for the victory obtained in 1455, over Henry VI., by Richard, Duke of York ; the first battle fought in the famous quarrel, which lasted thirty years, and is computed to have cost the lives of eighty princes of the blood, and to have annihilated almost en- tirely the ancient nobility of England. In 1461, a second battle was fought here, in which Queen Margaret defeated the great Earl of Warwick. There are several places of worship for Dissenters, to one of which belongs a charity- school, established a century ago, and extremely well conducted. Here, also, are various other schools. ALBINS, or Albyns, a manorial estate in Essex, partly in the parish of Stapleford Abbots, and partly in that of JNavestock, about sixteen miles from London. The man- sion is in the former parish, and is ascribed to Inigo Jones ; its style is the King James's Gothic, which has been pre- served by its proprietors throughout all repairs. The house is surrounded by a park. This estate, the pos- sessors of which may be traced to the 14th century, was purchased of the heiresses of Sir Thomas Edmonds, about the year 1650, by Anthony Abdy, Esq., of an ancient Yorkshire family, whose descendants still retain it, and continue to reside here. ALB URY> a parish in the hundred of Blackheath, Surrey, five miles S. W. from Guildford, is situate in a vale, at the foot of a range of chalk hills, extending from near Farn- ham into Kent. The greater part of the parish (with the patronage of the church^ belongs to H. Drummond, Esq. See Alhury Place, The parish is supposed to derive its name from some ancient fortification ; a conjecture con- firmed by remains found within the hundred. On a plain, a short distance from the road to Cranley, is the foundation 130 ALBURY PLACE. of what is thought to have been a Roman temple. It was dug up about 1670, for the sake of the stone and brick, when many Roman tiles, some octangular, and handsomely moulded, with a few coins, were found. The banks also were found to be full of Roman tiles. The church of Albury is a peculiarly neat structure, standing in Mr, Drummond's park. Of this parish were rectors, Oughtred, the celebrated mathematician, and Dr. Horsley, Bishop of St. Asaph. The former, who is said to have died in an ecstacy of joy, (but aged upwards of eighty-six) on hear- ing of the Restoration, lies buried, without memento, in the church. ALBURY PLACE, (or Park) in the parish of Albury, Surrey, now the seat of H. Drumraond, Esq., was pur- chased in 1638, of the Duncombe family, formerly pro- prietors of considerable estates in that parish, by Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, and was, for some time, the re- sidence of his descendants, the Dukes of Norfolk. His grandson, Henry, pulled down the original mansion, and erected a noble pile upon its foundation, cutting a canal about a quarter of a mile long, and sixty feet broad, and planting a vineyard above it of twelve acres. He also undertook the formation of a passage through the bottom of a hill, 160 yards in length, and of great height and breadth, which was intended for a way to the house, but a rock at the south-end prevented the design. In 1678, this place was sold to that distinguished lawyer, Heneage Finch, afterwards Earl of Aylesford. His son, who, before succeeding to the title, was M. P. for the county, made Albury his constant residence ; and being- much attached to rural sports, he took great pains to mul- tiply the breed of pheasants, which before were rare in this neighbourhood, though now they are very abundant. By the grandson of this nobleman, the estate was sold to his brother, the Hon. W. Clement Finch, who expended a considerable sum in repairing and fitting up the house, and enlarging the grounds. He died in 1794, with the AMWELL. 131 rank of admiral ; and under his will the estate was sold, in 1800, to Samuel Thornton, Esq., one of the representatives for this county, of whom it was purchased in 1811, by C. Wall, Esq., and in 1819, by the present proprietor, Henry Drummond, Esq., who has built an embattled Gothic tower at the north west corner of the building. — The old mansion was burned down in the time of the first Earl of Aylesford. The present is an elegant struc- ture ; the principal front being adorned with eight coupled Ionic columns, supporting a pediment. It was consider- ably altered and improved by Mr. Thornton. The park, a beautiful piece of ground, finely wooded, and abounding in particular with stately chesnut- trees, comprehends 250 acres, but was formerly more extensive. Within the inclosure, near the foot of the chalk hill, rises a strong spring, which forms three ponds called Shireburn ponds ; the water is remarkably clear and cold, and is conducted to supply the basin and fountain in the garden. AMWELL, a parish in Herts, two miles from Ware, and twenty- one from London, is famous for giving rise to the New lliver. On a small isle, formed by the stream, a tii- bute of respectful homage has been paid by Robert Mylne, Esq., (the late principal engineer to the New River Com- pany) to the genius and patriotism of Sir Hugh Myddelton. It consists of a votive urn, erected on a monumental pedes- tal of Portland stone, which is surrounded by a thicket of mournful trees, as cypress, and other evergreens. An in- scription is engraven on each side of the pedestal : that on the south is as follows : — Sacre4 to the Memory of Sir Hugh Myddelton, Bart. Whose successful care. Assisted by the patronage of the King, Conveyed this stream to London. An Immortal Work : Since Man cannot more nearly Imitate the Deity, Than in bestowing Health, 132 ASH FORD. The inscription on the north side is the same, in Latin : that on the west records the distance of Chadwell, the other source of the New River, at two miles, and the meanders of the river from Amwell to London, at forty more. The east side records the dedication of this humble tribute to the genius, talents, and elevation of mind, which conceived and executed this important aque- duct, by Robert Mylne, architect, engineer, &c., in the yearMDCCC." In this village is Amwell Bury, the pleasant villa of Colonel Browne, and the house and gardens of Mr. Hooper. These gardens were laid out by the late Mr. Scott, who has rendered the village interesting to the sentimental tra- veller, by a beautiful poem, called Amwell.'^ This place also boasts of having had among its inhabitants Hoole, the translator of Tasso ; and Walton, the angler. In the churcb-yard is the following curious epitaph : — That which a Being was, what is it ? show : That Being which it was, it is not now : To be what 'tis, is not to be, you see : That which now is not, shall a Being be. Here also lies buried William Warner, author of Albion's England," " Argentile and Curan,'* &c. On he hill, above the church, are the remains of an extensive fortification. In the neighbourhood is a delightful retreat called Langley Bottom. ANKERWYKE HOUSE, Surrey, within two miles of Staines, Middlesex, is the agreeable seat of W. Parker, Esq. It commands some fine views over the Thames. ASCOT PLACE Surrey, near Sunning-hill, Berks, and within five miles of Windsor, is a substantial modern edi- fice, the seat of Daniel Agace, Esq. ASIIFORD, a village in Middlesex, two miles east of Staines. In the neighbourhood are many elegant seats, and adjacent is the Common, noted for the many military reviews which have taken place on it. AYNSrORD. 133 ASHBRIDGE PARK, on the borders of Bucks and Herts, near Little Gaddesden, is the noble seat of the Countess of Bridgwater, the mansion having been built by her late lord. It is in the Gothic style, from designs by James Wyatt, Esq. On its site a monastery appears to hav^e been erected in the 13th century, which, after the Dissolution, became a seat of royalty, and was the frequent residence of Queen Elizabeth when princess. In 1602, this estate passed to the Lord Chancellor EUesmere, ancestor of the Bridgwater family. The old buildings are now entirely pulled down. The park is about five miles in circum- ference, well wooded, pleasingly diversified with hill and dale, and containing a number of fine deer. ASHTEAD, a small village, two miles S. W. from Epsom, on the road to Guildford. The church stands in the Hon. Colonel Howard's park. It is of flint, and consists of a nave and chancel, separated by a pointed arch. The font is an octagon basin, with quatrefoils on the sides, on a carved pillar. Here is Aslitead Park, the seat of the Hon. Colonel F. G. Howard, M.P., consisting of an elegant modern mansion, (with magnificent stabling) and an in- closed park of about 120 acres. King Charles II. was once entertained here, and the table at which he dined is said to be still preserved. Ashtead Cottage, D. Wal- shara, Esq., and Ashtead Hurst, Dr. Monro, are two pretty seats. AVELEY or Alveley, Essex, a rural little village near Purfleet, with a neat church, in which are several hand- some monuments to the Dacre family. Here is an alms- house for twelve families, built and endowed in 1639, by Lord Newburgh. AYNSFORD, an inconsiderable village in Kent, about eighteen miles from London, and one from Farningham, is distinguished by possessing the remains of an ancient castle. The walls only are standing : these are composed entirely of flint, (with here and there a Roman tile) and measure six feet in thickness. They inclose an area of N 134 BANSTED. about eighty yards in circumference, used as an orchard, £ind still full of fruit trees. It is rented by a civil man, who is anxious to oblige all visitors with a view of it. A pack of hounds was kept here for some years. The church of this place is a curious specimen of the early Norman architecture. The arch over the west entrance is worthy of particular attention. BAGNIGGE-WELLS, a noted tavern with tea-gardens, situate in the valley between the New River Head and the Foundling Hospital, is traditionally stated to have been the residence of Nell Gwyn, one of Charles the Second's mistresses, of whom here were a bust and picture. What it originally was is not known ; but over a door in the garden-wall, on the Battle-bridge-road, there is a square stone thus inscribed : — '* This is Bagnigge-house, near the Finder a Wakefeilde, 1680." On the discovery of two springs of mineral water, early in the reign of George HI., this place came into consi- derable repute, and was greatly enlarged and improved by a spirited landlord , A long room (afterwards divided into two by glass doors) was built, and a good organ put up for the amusement of visitors. The gardens were afterwards still further improved ; but they are now reduced to a mere slip of ground, and the whole place has become compara- tively insignificant. BANSTED, a village in Surrey, three miles east from Ewell, and thirteen from London, not far from Epsom- wells, was formerly noted for its produce of walnuts ; but now more particularly for its downs, the turf of which is of the most beautiful verdure, intermixed with thyme and other fragrant herbs, which render the mutton fed here remarkably sweet. Here is obtained a prospect for up- wards of thirty miles round, including the palaces of Windsor and Hampton, and the most prominent buildings of London and Westminster. On the downs is a four- BARKING. 135 milerace-course, much freq uented in the summer season; and among- the elegant seats in the neighbourhood are the Oaks, the late Earl of Derby [which see], and those of E. Allfrey, H. Howorth, J, Winter, and — Motteux, Esqrs. The church, which is in the deanery of Ewell, has an octagon font, with a different ornament in each compart- ment, and contains numerous monuments, especially to the family of Lambert, BARKING, a market-town in Essex, seven miles east from London, is supposed to take its name from burghiug — a fortification in the meadow — considerable entrenchments being still visible about a quarter of a mile from the town. This town is of great antiquity, and formerly acquired celebrity on account of its abbey, founded in the year 670, by St. Erkerwald, bishop of London, in compliance with the earnest request of his sister Ethelburgha, who was appointed the first abbess. The founder was nearly allied to the Saxon kings, being great-grandson of UfFa, the first king, and the second son of Anna, the seventh king of the East Angles ; he was also the first bishop of London, after the building of St. Paul's church by king Ethelbert, The nuns of Barking- were of the Benedictine order. The abbess was appointed by the king, till about the year 1200, when, by the interference of the Pope, the election was vested in the convent, and confirmed by the royal authority. The abbess of Barking was one of the four who were baronesses* in right of their station ; for, being possessed of thirteen knights' fees and a half, she held her lands of the king by a barony ; and, though her sex prevented her from having a seat in parliament, or attend- ing the king in the wars, yet she always furnished her quota of men, and had precedency over other abbesses. In her convent she always lived in great state ; her household consisted of chaplains, an esquire, gentlemen, gentle- * The other three were, Wilton, Shaftesbury, and St. Mary, VV iiichester. 136 BARKING. women, yeomen, grooms,. a clerk, a yeoman-cook, a groom- cook, a pudding-wife, &c.* Of Barking Abbey, Maud, the wife of King Henry I., IMaud, the wife of King Stephen, Adeliza, sister of Baron Fitz-John, and Mary, the sister of Thomas a Becket, Archbi^op of Canterbury, were successively the abbesses. Here, King Stephen and his court were entertained for several days, with great splendour ; here, the sons of the queen dowager, Catherine de la Pole, by Owen Tudor, were educated ; and hither, in 1397, Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester, retired, after the murder of her husband, and died here in 1399. The abbey was surrendered to Henry VIII. at the dissolution, when the last abbess, Dorothy Barley, and some of the nuns, were pensioned. Though once extremely flourishing, scarcely any vestiges of the * Among the Cottonian manuscripts, in the British Museum, is one entitled *' The Charge 'longynge to the Office of Cellaress of Barking," in which is fully stated the sums she had to collect, with the nature and quantity of the provisions she was to lay in, and the manner and proportion in which they were to be distributed. Among other things, she was to bake with elys on Schere-Thursday" (the Thursday after Lady-day); to provide a pece of whete and three gallons of milk for frimete on St. Alburgh's (Ethelburgh's) day; three gallons of gude ale for besons ; marybones to make white wortys ; cripsis and crumkakes at Shroftyde; conies for the convent at Shroftyde ; twelve stubbecles and nine schaf t eles, to bake on Schere- Thursday; one potel tyre for the abbess the same day, and two gallons of red wyne for the convent ; half a goose for each of the nuns on the feast of Assumption, and the same on St. Alburgh's- day ; for every lady a lyverey of sowse at Martinmas, a whole hog's sowse (consisting of the face, feet, and groin) to serve three ladies. She was to pay to every lady in the convent nine-pence a-year for ruschew-silver ; (money to buy butter) ; two-pence for her cripsis and crum-kakes at Shroftyde : three-halfpence a- week for cy-silver (egg money) from Michaelmas to Allhallow's-day ; from that day to Easter, seven farthings a-week; and from Easter to Michaelmas, three halfpence ! The whole has been printed in Dugdale's Monasticon, ^Li/som' Environs, vol. IV. p. 69. BAKKrNG. 137 alibey now remain. It stood on the north side of the pre- sent churchyard, where the abbey-church, with the con- vent and its buildings, occupied an extensive plot of ground. The site of the abbey-church may be traced just within the north wall of the present churchyard, where, by digging round the ruins, Mr. Letheuieller succeeded in taking a ground plan of it, many years since, which is preserved in Lysons^ Environs, Vol. IV. Barking Church is a spacious edifice, with a square embattled tower, and contains various monuments and funeral inscriptions ; among others, near the steps of a small chapel, at the east end of the south-aisle, is a marble slab, with a mutilated epitaph, supposed to be in memory of Mauritius, Bishop of London, A. D., 1087 ; and against the south wall of the chancel is a monument to the memory of Sir Charles Montague, brother of the first Earl of Manchester, who died in 1625. In the church* yard is a memorial of the late Mr. John Day, noted for having originated the Fairlop Oak Fair : see Fair lop. Mr, Day was buried here in October, 1767, aged 84. At the south entrance to the churchyard is an ancient square embattled gateway, with octagonal turrets, also embattled, rising from the ground on each side. The entrance-arch is pointed ; above it is a niche, with a canopy and pin- nacles. The apartment over the entrance is, in an old record, named " The Chapel of the Holy Hood lofte Atte- gate, edified to the honour of Almighty God, and of the Holy Rood." Against the wall in this chapel is a repre- sentation of the Holy Rood, or Crucifixion, in alto-relievo. This structure is generally called Fire-Bell-gate, from its anciently containing a bell, which Mr. Lysons imagines to have been used as a curfew-bell. The town of Barking is situate on the River Rodon, commonly called Barking Creek, which communicates with the Thames. It is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, has a weekly market, a spacious workhouse, a penitentiary, a market-house, and several almshouses, and other cha- N 3 138 BARNES. rities. Its neiglibourhood supplies London with vast quan- tities of veg'etables, especially potatoes, which grow here in great abundance and perfection. Near Barking is Eastbury -house, which see. BARNES, a pleasant village in Surrey, six miles from Hyde -park-corner, situate partly on the banks of the Thames, where there is an elegant terrace of first-rate houses, with extensive gardens, most of them beautifully laid out. The church, which is about half a mile from the river, is one of the Archbishop of Canterbury's peculiars, and is remarkable as one of the most ancient religious edifices near London. It is supposed to have been built about the time of Richard L ; for the windows in the north wall are of the architecture of that period. Those in the south wall and in the nave are of a later date. The walls are chiefly of stone and flint ; the tovv^er of brick and square, with buttresses, a stair-case and turret. The quoins are of a soft stone, much crumbled ; the windows square and plain. The north side was considerably enlarged in 1786-7, Outside this church, on the north- wall, is a tablet to the memory of Edward Rose, citizen of London, who died July, 1653, bequeathing 20/., to be laid out in the purchase of an acre of ground, for the benefit of the poor of the parish, conditionally that the wooden pales round his grave be kept in constant repair, and that some rose-trees should be planted on each side of his monumental tablet, and renewed whenever necessary. The probability is that the name of the testator suggested this device ; but whether that was the case or not, this man's mode of endeavouring to perpetuate his name must be regarded as cheap, innocent, and ingenious ; and it has proved effectual for nearly two centuries, for the pales are now in good preservation, and the rose-trees healthy and flourishing. It is stated that the parish-clerk has a small annual fee for attending to them. Barnes-common contains a workhouse,, erected in 1778, at the expense of near 1,000/.^ and several pretty villa BARNES-ELMS. 139 and cottage residences. Near the common are the Priory, — Holland, Esq., and Clarence Lodge, Andrew Belcher, Esq. Bejond the church is : — BARNES-ELMS, a hamlet of the parish of Barnes, noted for its maj estic trees, and for two highly-celebrated houses. One of these was Queen Elizabeth's dairy, and afterwards the residence of Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, who built a gallery here for the accommodation of the celebrated persons who formed the Kit-Kat-Club, so denominated from Christopher Kat, the landlord at whose house the meetings had previously beenholden. Around the gallery were hung the portraits of all the members, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller. These now belong to the represen- tatives of the late William Baker, Esq., of Bayfordbury, Herts, where they are preserved ; but the whole have been engraved, and a very interesting account of the club was published a few years since, by Mr. Alaric A. Watts. The gallery has been partly pulled down, and partly united with a barn. The other noted house here was anciently the manor-house, and was rented on lease by Queen Elizabeth, who granted her interest in it to Sir Francis Walsingham and his heirs. Here, in 1589, that great man entertained the queen and her whole court. The unfortunate Earl of Essex, who married Walsing- ham's daughter (the widow of Sir Philip Sydney), fre- quently visited here. This house afterwards became the residence of Mr. Heidegger, master of the revels to George II., of whom the following story is told: — The king gave him notice that he would sup with him one evening, and that he should come from Richmond by water. It was Heidegger's profession to invent novel amusements, and he was resolved to surprise his Majesty with a specimen of his art. The king's attendants, who were in the secret, contrived that he should not arrive at Barn Elms before night, and it was with difficulty that he found his way up the avenue to the house. When h© 140 BARNET. came to the door, all was dark, and he began to bean^y that Heidegger should be so ill-prepared for his recep- tion. Heidegger suffered his Majesty to vent his anger, and affected to make some awkward apologies, when, in an instant, the house and avenues were in a blaze of light; a great number of lamps having been so dis- posed as to communicate with each other, and to be lit at the same instant. The king laughed heartily at the device, and went away much pleased with his enter- tainment,^' This house, which was seated in a small paddock near the Thames, was bought by the late Sir R. Hoare, Bart., about 1770, when it was enlarged and modernised ; but when the Hammersmith Suspension-bridge was built, the proprietors of that work purchased the estate of Mr, Hoare, the banker, and cut a road across the grounds. In the vicinity are the seats of — Sansom, Esq., and > — Colebroke, Esq, ; Cowley, the poet, resided here before he settled at Chertsey, — See Bayfordbury, BARNET, a market-town in Herts, eleven miles N.E. from London, on the road to York. It is sometimes called High Barnet, from its situation on a hill, and Chip- ping Barnet, from the privilege, originally granted to the monks of St, Alban's, of holding a market here ; chepe being the Saxon word for market. The church is of considerable antiquity, and in appearance picturesque. In the town is a free-school, built by Queen Elizabeth, and a row of almshouses for widows. Here is also a hospital, founded by Thomas Ravenscroft, Esq, (who has an altar- tomb in the church), in the reign of Charles U., for six poor ancient women, being widows or maidens, inha- bitants of the town, and neither common beggars, common drunkards, backbiters, talebearers, common scolds, thieves, or other like persons of infamous life, or evil name, or repute, or vehemently suspected of sorcery^ witchcraft, or charming, or guilty of perjury, nor any idiot or lunatic." On the Common, near the town, was formerly a race- 141 course, inclosed in 1776. This place is remarkable for the decisive battle fought between the Houses of York and Lancaster, in 1471, in which the Earl of Warwick fell. To commemorate the event, a stone column was erected, on the supposed site of the battle (Gladsmore- heath), by Sir J. Sambrooke, Bart., in 1740. BARNET, East, a picturesque village in Herts, near Whetstone, ten and a quarter miles north from London, the vicinity of which abounds with game. The place was formerljmuch frequented on account ofa mineral spring, of a cathartic qualitv, now inclosed for preservation, but accessible bj means of a pump. Here are some very pleasant residences — Belmont, the seat of — Beevan, Esq., standing on a considerable eminence in a fine park ; Bohun Lodge, the seat of ; Little Grove, the seat of T. Wilson, Esq. ; and Oak-Hill^ Bushey, the seat of Isaac Eeles, Esq. BARNET, Friahn, a village in Middlesex, between Finchley and Whetstone, one mile S.E. from the latter. The church, which is on the road-side, is a pretty object. Near it was the manor-house, a very ancient structure, partly of Norman architecture, lately occupied by the Bacon family, descendants of the chancellor and lord- keeper of that name. Here is a row of almshouses, built in 1612, for poor women, who have now no allowance except what they receive from the parish, BARNSBURY, a portion of the parish of Islington, lying between the Liverpool-road and Copenhagen-fields, and rapidly increasing by new buildings. In Barnsbury-park are some genteel villa residences, with large gardens, which are the more desirable as being within a mile and a half of Smithfield, and yet surrounded by pleasant fields ; which is more than can be said of any other part of the suburbs so near London. BARRINGTONS, or The Rolls, an ancient manorial estate in Essex, in the parish of Chigwell, formerly pos- sessed by the De Veres, Earls of Oxford, and held under 142 BATTERSEA. them by the Barring ton family for some centuries. It was purchased, about 1650, by Eliab Harvey, Esq;, whose descendants still retain it. The mansion is a handsome modern building-, situate on an eminence, with good views, and inclosed by a park. BATTERSEA, (about two and a half miles from Hyde Park Corner, through Chelsea) a village in Surrey, a great part of which is on low ground, near the Thames, is chiefly remarkable as the birth-place and residence of Henry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroke, a nobleman of extraordinary talents, but of very questionable principles. The family seat, a venerable structure, with forty rooms on a floor, was near the Thames, and one of its parlours (said to be the room of which Pope was so fond as a place of study and literary conversation) is still preserved. Young St. John was born in 1672, educated at Eton and Oxford, married at twenty-two, (to check him in a career of pro- fligacy) entered parliament, attracted attention, and was made secretary of war till 1707, when his friend Harley ("afterwards Earl of Oxford) resigned. On Harley's resto- ration (1710), became secretary of state ; in 1712, created Baron St. John and Viscount Bolingbroke; soon after, quarrelled with Harley ; on the accession of George I., suspected, his seals demanded, and papers seized ; with- drew to France, and, as if with the intention of justifying the worst suspicions, became (from mere resentment, it is thought) secretary of state to the Pretender ! After the ill-planned attempts by the Stuarts, in 1715, he was dis- missed with displeasure by that party, while his family estates were confiscated in England. Becoming a widower, he married the Marchioness de Villette, a niece of Madame de Maintenon ; in 1723, obtained a full pardon, with the restoration of his estates, returned to England, and lived near Uxbridge for some time, but subsequently at Battersea, where he died in 1751, aged 79. The manor was purchased for the late Earl Spencer in 1763, and a few years after, the greater part of the house was pulled down. BATTERSEA. 143 At the east end of Battersea Church is a window, in which are three portraits ; the first that of Margaret Beau- champ, ancestor (by her first husband, Sir Oliver St. John) of the St. Johns, and (by her second husband, John Beaufort, Duke of Somerset) grandmother to Henry VII. ; the second, the portrait of that monarch ; and the third, that of Queen EUzabeth, which was placed here, because her grandfather, Thomas Boleyne, Earl of Wiltshire, was great grandfather of Anne, the daughter of Sir Thomas Leighton, and wife of Sir John St, John, the first baronet of the family. In the church is a monument by Roubillac, to the memory of Viscount Bolingbroke, and his seconil wife. A panegyrical epitaph mentions " his zeal to main- tain the liberty, and restore the ancient prosperity of Great Britain." Another monument, to the memory of Sir Ed- ward Winter, an East India Captain, in the reign of Charles II., relates, that being attacked in the woods by a tiger, he placed himself on the side of a pond, and when the tiger flew at him, he caught him in his arms, fell back with him into the water, got upon him, and kept him down till he had drowned him. This adventure, as well as another exploit still more wonderful, is vouched for by the follow- ing lines : — Alone, unarm'd, a tiger he oppressed And crush'd to death the monster of a beast; Thrice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew ^ Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew, I Disperst the rest; what more could Sampson do ? J At the east end of the church is a neat tablet, to the memory of Thomas Astle, F. A.S., keeper of the records in the Toww, a trustee of the British Museum, a collector of manuscripts, and w^ell known by his work on the Origin and Progress of Writing." He died in 1802, aged 68. Here also are interred, Collins, the author of the " Peerage," and some other works, who died in 1760, aged 76 ; ' Curtis, author of the " Flora Londinensis," died 1799, aged 56 j and the Rev. Jos. Gardner, late vicar 144 BATTERSEA RISK. of Battersea, distinguished for his attachment to the arts, the author of Views on the Rhine," 1788, and a constant exhibitor at the Eoyal Academy, died 1808, aged 79. The church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is in the dio- cese of Winchester ; the advowson is in the lord of the manor (Earl Spencer). This church was rebuilt under the Act 14 Geo. III., and opened in Nov. 1777. It is of brick, and has a tower with a conical point at the west end, but has neither aisle nor chancel. It is situate on the banks of the Thames. A chapel of ease for the parish has lately been erected in Battersea fields, in the pointed style, from designs by Mr. Blore. It was commenced and com- pleted in. eleven months, and first opened in August, 1828. Battersea has long been famed for its vegetables, espe- cially asparagus and cabbages. Some eminent florists are also established here. In this parish is the well known Bed House y and across !he river, nearly facing the church, is the Stadium, established by the Baron de Berenger — refer to both. Beyond the church, on the banks of the Thames, is Sherwood Houses now the s^at of Sir George Wombwell, Bart., but formerly of Mr. Wolf, the Danish Consul, w'ho built a Doric gallery here, seventy-six feet by tw^enty-five, for the reception of a valuable collection of antique casts. Battersea has a chapel for Baptists, founded shortly- after the revolution of 1688, very many chapels for Dis- senters, and a free school founded by Sir Walter St. John. The Thames is crossed to Chelsea by a wooden bridge, built in 1771—2, at the expense of fifteen proprietors, who each subscribed 1,500/. It is consequently private pro- perty, and therefore, we presume, generally out of re- pair. BATTERSEA RISE, Surrey, is partly in the W^ands- worth-road, and partly between that road and one of the corners of Cl^pham Common. It stands very high w^hen compared with Batteisea, whence it is a hill the whole dis- BAY— -BE A. 145 lance, in a straight line from the bridge. About it are several pleasant villas, the proprietors or tenants of which are too fre- quently changing to enable us to name them. On first entering the Wandsworth. road (from I'attersea), from a steep nar- row lane, some good houses present themselves. The principal of these, on a spot called Lavender- hill, was the residence of John A. Clarke, Esq., the banker, recently deceased ; the other two, whimsically surm.ounted by turrets, and with fanciful stabling in fjont, were also built by tijat gentleman. BAYFORDBURY, near Hertford, the seat of Mrs. Baker, is a modern mansion occupying a commanding site, and having attached to it extensive park and farm lands. During the late Mr. Baker's lifetime, this seat was cele- brated for its sporting establishments. The river Lea adds much beauty to the scenery. Here are preserved the cele- brated Kit-Kat portraits which formerly adorned the club- room at Barnes. See Barnes-Elms, BAYSWATER, a hamlet of the parish of Paddington, one mile west from Cumberland -gate, on the Uxbridge-road- This place has been much built on within the last quarter of a century ; its contiguity to Kensington-gardens, and its proximity to London, render it a desirable place of resi- dence. Here is that excellent charity the Queen's Lying- in Hospital, removed hither in 1791, from Cumberland- street. The public tea-gardens here were formerly the grounds of Sir John Hill, used by him for the culture of medicinal plants. Here is a reservoir, originally intended for the supply of Kensington Palace, the property in which was granted to the Chelsea Water-works Corapariy, on con- dition of their keeping the basin before the palace full of water. BEACONS FIELD, aconsiderablemarket-towninBucks, twenty-three and a quarter miles W. N. W. from London, and four and a half from High Wycombe. It stands on a hill, and is supposed to have derived its name from a beacon formerly erected here. The houses are ^, ell built, o 146 BEAUMOTnT lodgk. in four principal streets running crosswise. The high street is three quarters of a mile in length : in it stands the church, formerly a part of the monastery of Burnham. In it lie the remains of the celebrated Edmund Burke ; and in the churchyard is interred the poet Waller, whose de- scendants reside in this neighbourhood. This is reckoned one of the most healthy situations in England. In the vicinity are numerous seats ; especially Wilton Park, J. Dupre, Esq., Hall Barn (formerly Waller's residence) Rev. Sir J. Kobinson, Bart., Bulstrode, the Duke of Somer- set, and Butler^s Court, formerly the seat of the Right Hon. Edmund Burke. See Bulstrode. BEAUMONT LODGE, Berks, is finely situated on an easy ascent, at Old Windsor, near the Thames. It was ori- ginally built by H. F. Thynne, Esq., (an ancestor of the Marquess of Bath), who died in 1705, since which this estate qas had numerous owners. About 1750, it was purchased by the Duke of Roxburgh for his son, the Marquess of Beau- mont, from whom it acquired its present name. A late proprietor, Henry Griffiths, Esq., pulled down the greater part of the old structure, and erected the present mansion from designs of Mr. Henry Emlyn, an architect of Windsor, who intended it as a specimen of a new order of architecture. The colonnade in the middle of the front consists of six columns and two pilasters, each thirty-six feet eight inches high, in imitation of twin trees, rising from a single root or base. Most of the ornaments are allusive to the insignia of the Order of the Garter. In each cleft between the stems, the shield of a knight is introduced, which, together with the base, is of Portland stone. The capitals are of Coade's artificial stone, and formed in resemblance of the plumage of the cap worn by the Knights of the Garter, having Tonic volutes interwoven in the front, with the star of the order between them. The George and Collar are placed in the metopes ; and in the continued frieze are other symbolical ornaments, as naval and military trophies, &:c. This man- sion was purchased about 1805, by Viscount Ashbrook, BEC BED. 147 the present owner, who has formed here a valuable collec- tion of coins and medals. The pleasure-grounds consist of more than 100 acres, rising by an easy ascent from the banks of the river to an ornamental upland, part of which is a line winding terrace. BECKENHAM, a pleasant village in Kent, two miles north from Bromley, and ten from London. At this place re- sided Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Edward King, author of '* Munimenta Antiqua." Tn its church is the monument of Mrs. Clarke, with an epitaph by Gray, the poet; and here w^ere buried William Style, author of Reports," and the brave naval officer. Sir Piercy Brett. The village is surrounded by elegant seats. Laugley Far-m, A. Colville, Esq. ; Langley Lodge, Wm. IM'Cormick, Esq. : Langley Parky E. Goodheart, Esq. ; Beckenham PlacCy — Wedderburn, Esq ; Eden Farm, Lord Auckland ; and Eden Lodge, B. G. Oakley, Esq., besides many other genteel residences. BEDDINGTON, a village in Surrey, two miles west of Croydon, and distant eleven from Westminster-bridge* Bedddng, in the Saxon, signifies a bed or lodging, and ton, town ; and the inference from this etymology is, that Bed- dington was anciently deemed the first stage out of Lon- don on one of the great roads. The Roman road to Stane« street and Sussex, passed through the parish. The Church of Beddington consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, and has a tower at the west end, wath but- tresses, embattled. The present structure is supposed, from its architecture, to have been erected during the reign or Richard II. In the north and south aisles are some an- cient wooden stalls, and the font, which is of an early date, is large and square, supported by four pillars. The pulpit, supposed to have been the gift of Sir Francis Carew, is of mantled carving, and the pillars which separate the nave from the aisle are of anfique rude workmanship. The altar-piece, communion-table, the rails, and pavement of the chancel, were the gift, in 1710^ of Sir John Leake, a 140 BEDDINGTON. gallant naval officer of Queen Anne's time, who distin- guislied himself in the battle of La Hogue, and in the relief of Gibraltar. He had a cottage at Beddington, as an occa- sional retreat. In the chancel are several brass figures of the Carew family on flat stones ; the inscriptions of most of them are gone. I'he tomb of Nicholas Carew, and Isabella, his wife, is perfect, and very handsome. At the south- east corner of the church is a small aisle, erected either by Sir Richard Carew, or his son. Sir Nicholas, for the sepul- ture of the Carew family : Sir Richard was the first who w^as interred there, (A. D. 1520) and the architecture is of that period. Sir Richard Carew's monument is in the south wall, near the door ; under a depressed pointed arch is an altar tomb, on the top of which are small brass plates representing Sir Richard Carew and his lady ; he is in armour, with a surcoat, on which are the arms of Carew the inscription round the edge of the tomb is mutilated, but there is enough left to inform us that he died in 1520. In the same aisle is an elegant monument, supported by Corinthian columns of black marble, to the memory of Sir Francis Carew, who died in 1611 ; between the columns lies his effigy in complete armour ; and in the lower part of the monument are figures of Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, alias Carew, and his wife, kneeling, with four sons, habited in long cloaks, and two daughters in ruffs and farthin- gales. The principal manor of Beddington became the property of Nicholas Oarew in the reign of Edward III., and still remains in his descendants, the mansion-house being Bed- dington Hall, It is an old-fashioned brick mansion, occupjing three sides of a square ; the centre consists of a lofty hall, with a beautiful pointed roof of ji^ood ; the north wing is a mere shell, the inside having been destroyed by fire, soon after the house was rebuilt in its present form, about the year 1709. The great door of the hall has a curious ancient LLDDIxNGTON. 149 lock, very richly wrought ; a shield, with the arms of Eiig-- hmd, moving in a groove, conceals the key-hole. In the hall is the portrait of a lady (which is falsely shown as Queen Elizabeth) ; her arms are in the corner of the picture, and are those borne by Townley. A small room adjoining- to the hall retains the ancient pannels with mantled carvang ; over the chimney is a small portrait of one of the Carews, surrounded by a pedigree. Another room has several portraits of the Hacket family; among which is a good picture of Bishop Hacket, said to be done by Sir Peter Lely. In a parlour, at the north end of the hall, are some other family portraits ; the most remarkable of which is that of Sir Nicholas Carew, who was beheaded in the reign of Henry the Eighth. When Sir Francis Carew became possessed of the inhe- ritance of his ancestors, which had been forfeited by his father's attainder, he rebuilt this mansicn-house in a very magnificent manner, and laid out the gardens, which he planted with choice fruit-trees, in the cultivation of which he took great delight, and spared no expense in procuring* them from foreign countries. The first orange-trees seen in England are said to have been planted by him. Aubrey, the historian of the county, says, they were brought from Italy by Sir Francis Carew ; but the editors of the Bio- graphia Britannica" assert, from a tradition preserved in. the family, that Sir Francis raised them from seeds of the first oranges which were imported into England by Sir Walter Raleigh, who had married his niece, the daughter of Sir Nicholas Throckmorton : it is certain, however, that the trees were planted in the open ground, and were pre- served in the winter by a moveable shed ; they flourished for about a century and a half, being destroyed by the hard frost in 1739—40. In the month of August, 1599, Queen Elizabeth paid a visit to Sir Francis Carew, at Beddington, for three days, and again in the same month, the ensuing year ; the queen's oak and her favourite walk are still pointed out. BED! O NT. Sir Hugh Piatt tells an anecdote in his Garden of Eden," relating- to one of these visits ; which shows the pains Sir Francis took in the management and cultivation of his fruit-trees. Here I wail conclude," savs he, with a conceit of that delicate knight, Sir Francis Carew, who, for the better accomplishment of his royal entertainment of our late Queen Elizabeth, of happy memory, at his house at Beddington, led her majesty to a cherry-tree, whose fruit he had of purpose kept back from ripening, at the least one month after all the cherries had taken their farewell of England. This secret he performed by Straining a tent, or cover of canvass, over the whole tree, and wetting the same now and then with a scoop or horn, as the heat of the weather required ; and so by withholding the sun -beams from re- flecting upon the berries, they grew both great, and were very long before they had gotten their perfect cherry- colour : and when he was assured of her majesty's coming, he removed the tent, and a few sunny days brought them to their full maturity." Inhere is a public thoroughfare through the park, which is not remarkable for either size or beauty, into the Car- shal ton-road, and the interior of the house may in general be viewed by any party applying for permission. A beautiful pellucid trout-stream runs through the park, crossed by a light bridge. In this parish is a farm-house called Woodcote, which, from some remains of antiquity found here, is supposed by some writers to have been a Roman station. In the vici- nity are several attractive seats. See WuLlington. BEDFONT,or Belfont, a village in Middlesex, thirteen miles from London, and three and a half from Staines, is a considerable thoroughfare, with convenient houses of en- tertainment for travellers. The church is a neat structure ; in its yard are t^^o yew-trees, ingeniously united, so as to form an arch over the footpath, and exhibiting in sombre verdure the date 1704. BED— EEL. 151 BEDFORDS, now the seat of Rogers, Esq., near Romford, Essex, is an ancient manor-house, and was held bv Sir Thomas Cooke, in the 17th century, by the serjeancy of presenting' one red rose to the queen, on the 24th of June, annually. BELL HOUSE, near Avely and South Ockendon, Essex, is now the seat of Sir Thomas B. Lennard, Bart. It was built in the reign of Henry VIII. ; but Lord Dacre, who formerly resided here, much improved both the mansion and grounds. The former, which is stately in appearance, is very tastefully decorated, and commands a good view into Kent, though it occupies rather a low situation, in a pleasant park, about three miles in circumference, which abounds with fine old oaks and other trees, formed into agreeable vistas. This manor possesses the peculiar privi- lege of excluding any person, however great in rank, from entering the park in pursuit of game. BELMONT CASTLE, Essex, on an eminence near the Thames, twenty-two miles from London, and one from Grays, was the property and residence of the late Zacha- riah Button, Esq., who, some years since, finished it in a costly style of Gothic architecture. The building contains, besides other convenient apartments, a circular neatly- finished room, called the round tower, from whence there are most delightful prospects of the Thames, for many miles, and of the rich Kentish inclosures, to the hills beyond the great Dover road. Surrounding the house are pleasure-grounds, tastefully disposed, and ornamented with very valuable forest trees, shrubs, and plants, terminating, towards the west, by a Gothic temple, and, towards the east, by an orchard and paddock. There are two ap- proaches to the house, the one by a neat brick Gothic lodge, through the great south lawn, from the road between West Thurrock and Grays; and the other, from the village of StifFord, by the north lawn. This is now the seat of Richard Webb, Esq. BELMONT HOUSE, near Uxbridge, now the seat of 152 BKL — BET. llichard Fell, Esq., is a spacious brick mansion, built in the early part of the last century. Thomas Harris, Esq., joint patentee of Covent Garden Theatre, was a recent owner of this estate, and effected considerable improve- ments in both the house and grounds. Here is a mimic hennitage, opening into a large garden saloon, in which Mr. Harris had a valuable collection of theatrical por- traits. BELVIDERE HOUSE, late the seat of Sampson Gideon, Lord Eardley, but now of Lord Say and Sele, (his son-in-law) is a majestic building, near the banks of the Thames, on the brow of a hill, about a mile from Erith, in Kent. The mansion, from its situation, on an eminence, (declining rapidly to the north) commands a fine prospect of the Thames and the Essex shore in front, and at the back, of the rural scenery of Kent. The front view, from the continual passage of shipping on the river, is uncom- monly animated. In the mansion is a good collection of paintings, many of them the production of the greatest masters. BENTLEY PRIORY, Middlesex, near Stanmore, three miles S. E. of Watford, is the magnificent seat of the Marquess of Abercorn. It is situate on the summit of Stanmore-hill, and is supposed to occupy the site of an ancient priory. The mansion is an irregular pile of brick, built by Mr. Duberly, an army-clothier, from designs by Soane, and afterwards purchased by the late Marquess of Abercorn. Its interior comprises a suite of very spacious apartments, but its chief attractions are the works of art with which it is adorned. Here are a number of very valuable and beautiful antique busts, besides some fine portraits, and a collection of paintings by the old masters. The prospects from the house are rich and extensive, and the grounds, comprising upwards of 200 acres, are very ornamentally laid out. BETCH WORTH, a parish in the hundred ofReigate, Surrey, 4 miles east from Dorking, The church, a vicar- BETCIIWORTfr. 153 age, in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Windsor, consists of a nave and aisles, a chancel and north aisles, and a good tower. The interior is plain ; the aisles are separated from the nave by three pointed arches on circular columns. On the north side is a full length effigy of a priest in richly-embroidered robes, with a chalice in his hands. The country around is richly wooded and highly rural, and is ornamented with numerous genteel seats. BETCH WORTH, East, a hamlet to the above, half a mile distant. BETCH WORTH, West, also a hamlet of the same parish. Here is Betchworth House, the seat of the Right Hon. Henry Goulburn, M. P. It was built in the time of James I., by Sir Ralph Freeman, and contains portraits of Sir Ralph, of his wife, before and after marriage, of his child, and of other members of the family. Here also are Italian casts from several of the finest ancient statues ; and in the chimney-piece is a piece of sculpture from Hercu- laneum. In this parish are V/onham, a manor-house, with a park of about 120 acres, Viscount Templeton ; Brome, an elegant retreat, belonging to the representatives of the late W, Kenrick, Esq. ; and the seat of Thomas Croft, Esq. Betchworth Castle, which is in West Betchworth, belonged, at the time of the survey, to Richard de 1'onbridge ; afterwards to the great Earl Yv^ arren ; then to the Fitz- Allans, Earls of Arundel, by whom it was first embattled, and from whom, by descent or marriage, it devolved to Thomas Brown, Esq., who, about 1450, had permission to impark his manor, to have free warren in the same, court leet and court baron, and an annual fair on Whit Tuesday. In the family of Brown, of which Ambrose was, in 1627, created a baronet, this estate con- tinued vested till the death of Sir Adam, in 1690, wdien it devolved to his sole daughter and heir, married to W. Fen- wick, Esq., who pulled down the greater part of the castlej and turned the remainder into a dwelling-house. 154 JBETIINAL GREEN. After the death of Mr. Fenwick and his lady, the estate was sold under a decree in chancery to the late Abraham Tucker, Esq., (author of a metaphysical work, entitled the Light of Nature Pursued). He bequeathed this estate to his onl}^ surviving daughter; and on her decease, Sir H. P. St. John Mildmay, Bart., Mr. Tucker's grandson, be- came lord of the manor, who, in 1798, sold the castle and manor to — Peters, Esq , the banker. This gentleman, who was sheriff of Surrey, in 1818, has enlarged the estate by other purchases. The park is remarkable for the noble timber with which it is adorned. The outer park is skirted with chesnut trees of very large dimensions, and the inner, at the extremity of which the house is situated, has two fine avenues, the one of elms, and the other 350 yards in length, composed of a triple row of limes, of extraordinary size. BETHNAL GREEN, Middlesex, once a hamlet of Stepney, from which it was separated in 1743, and fonned into a distinct parish, by the name of St. Matthew, Bethnal Green, is situated N. E. of the metropolis, extending over a considerable part of the suburbs, and contains about 490 acres of land. The well-known ballad of the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green was written in the reign of Elizabeth : the legend is told of the reign of Henry III. ; and Henry de Montfort, (a son of the Earl of Leicester), who was supposed to have fallen in the battle of Evesham, is the hero. Though it is probable that the author might have fixed upon any other spot, with equal propriety, for the residence of his beggar, the story, nevertheless, seems to have gained much credit in the village, where it decorates, not only the sign-posts of the publicans, but the staff of the parish-beadle. Here is an old mansion, now called Bethnal Green House, built in the reign of Elizabeth, by Mr. Kirby, a citizen of London, and still called in writings Kirby Castle. It is now appropriated for the reception of insane persons. A considerable increase of buildings has been made of late years in this neighbourhood ; and a bexli:y. 155 neat cliapel, with schools for converted Jews, have been erected. The old Roman road from London passed here^ and joining the military way from the west, crossed the Lea at Old Ford. Here stands that noble hospital, the Trinity Houses, founded in 1695, for 28 decayed seamen, who have been masters of ships or pilots, or their widows, each receiving- 16s. monthly, 20s. per annum for coals, and a new gown every second year. It was built with the money arising from the ballast-office, light-houses, buoys, beacons, &c. ; a fund which was appropriated for the purpose by an Act of Parliament. BEXLEY, a considerable village in Kent, between 12 and 13 miles from London, on the road to Dover, in Domes- day boo3i written Bix, and in the Textus Roffensis, Bixle, derives its name from the Saxon Becc, a brook or stream, and ley, lay -land or pasture. The parish is exten- sive : the manor of it formerly belonged to the great Cam- den, the antiquary, who bequeathed it to the University of Oxford, for the endowment of a professorship of history. About 20 years since, an Act of Parliament was obtained for inclosing the waste lands in this parish, when an exten- sive common, a dreary waste, containing upwards of 300 acres, called Bexley Heath, was inclosed and built upon. Here, there are already nearly 2,000 inhabitants, a weekly market has been established, and a chapel of ease is rapidly approaching its completion. In many of the exca- vations made for water at this place, an immense quantity of marine shells has been dug up ; and in forming a small bank of earth as a fence, about 16 inches below the surface was dug up an earthen vessel, with a cover, containing ashes and human bones, with a curious bottle ; the cover was neatly turned, and the fibrous roots of plants which had grown over it had left their imprint. About seven years since, too, Mr. E. Stoneham, in sinking for brick- earth near this spot, dug out an elephant's tusk, about four feet in length, whkh appeared to have been broken. 156 BIL — BLA. There is a fine seat here called Danson Hill, built by Sir Robert Tajdor, for Sir John Boyd, Bart., ])ut now the property and residence of Mrs. Anna Johnstone. BILLERICAY, a market-town in Essex, 23^ miles east from London, on the road from Chelmsford to Tilbury Fort, has many good houses, and is seated on a fine emi- nence, commanding" a beautiful prospect of the Kentish hills, yvith a rich valley, and the Thames intervening. Billericay has an ancient chapel, quite independent of the parish church, wdiich is at Great Burghsted ; and, as the town contains a number of Dissenters, here are places of worship for Baptists, Quakers, and Independents. A silk manufactory employs a considerable number of hands, but the principal trade is in corn. On an ancient manorial possession, called Blunt' s Walls, near this place, are some earth-works, supposed to be the remains of a Roman vallum and ditch. They consist of a ditch and rampart, including about four acres, part of wdiich is inclosed in a farm yard : the rampart is consider- ably above the level of the fields. Several artificial mounts within the inclosure, have been nearly levelled. There have also been discovered here, various fragments of urns, paterae, and other earthen vessels, about three feet below the surface, on a high hill near Billericay, together with Roman copper coins, and two silver ones, of the Emperors Trajan and Adrian. From these various remains, it is inferred that -this neighbourhood has been the site of a Roman villa, or small station. BISHOP'S HALL, a manor-house in the parish of Lambourne, Essex, the property of Miss Lockwood Per- cival, takes its name from having been anciently attached to the see of Norwich. It is situate vv'ithin a mile of Lam- bourne Church, adjoining Chigwell-row ; a spot whence a most extensive view is obtained from the summit of a hill, which overlooks Epping Forest, the Thames, Kent, Surrey, and Middlesex. BLACKKEATH, Kent, 5 miles S<*. from London, is BLACKHEATH. 157 a fine elevated heath, so named either from the dark colour of the soil, or from its high and cold situation, the Saxon bl(EC signifying cold, whence our English word hleak. Though extending into several parishes, this heath is a hamlet to Greenwich, on the south of which it lies. It is most beautifully situate, and commands extensive prospects over the adjacent country, and the Kiver Thames, a full view of the ranger's house in Greenwich Park, Greenwich Hospital, the new dock, a multitude of shipping, and a good view of the metropolis. On the right of the heath is Morden College, for the sup- port of decaj'ed merchants, ered^ed by Sir John Morden, Bart., a Turkey merchant, about the year 1680. It is a large brick building, with two wings, having a chapel annexed to it, in which is a costly altar-piece. Sir John Morden endowed this institution with his entire estate, (about 1,300/. a-year) after his wife's decease, and his relict added considerably to his benefaction. The number of pensioners is now about 40, with a treasurer and chaplain. Each pensioner has 201. a-year, two convenient private rooms and a cellar, with a common table in the hall for meals. None are admitted under 60 years of age. The trustees are seven merchants of the City of London. On Blackheath are many beautiful villas — See, on the left, on the verge of Greemvich-park, the Ranger's House, J^rincess Sophia of Gloucester ; near which, the seats of Capt. Smith, R. N., and — Heisch, Esq. On the east side of the park, R. Dixon, Esq., and Vanbrugh House, — '• Stokes, Esq. On the Heath, Capt, the Hon. Arthur Legge ; the Hon. Henry Legge ; Dowager Countess of Dartmouth ; Francis Newdigate, Esq. ; — Pattison, Esq. ; — Greensides, Esq. ; W est comhe- park, Countess of Buck™ inghamshire ; and East combe -park, — Brocklebank, Esq. At the extremity of the Heath, to the left of the 6th mile- stone, is Woodlands, the seat of the late John Angerstien, Esq.; and now of his son, John Angerstien, Esq. M. P, On Blackheath, at its northern extremity, stood the 158 BLACKHEATH. magnificent mansion of Sir Gregory Page, Bart., whose nephew. Sir Gregory Page Turner, in 1775, sold the noble collection of paintings by auction, after which, by virtue of an Act of Parliament, the house and grounds were also sold to the highest bidder, John Cator, Esq., of Becken- ham, who subsequently, in 1787, again put the estate up to auction, and in a way, too, which insured its total demo- lition ; the materials, and the whole of the splendid deco- rations were sold in separate lots ! The late Queen Caro- line, when Princess of Wales, resided in a house at the London entrance to the north, near Greenwich-park. This house was pulled down sOme years back. On the side of the ascent to Blacklieath, by the Dover- road, a cavern was discovered in 1780, consisting of seven large rooms, from 12 to 36 feet wide, the whole range having a communication by arched avenues ; some of these apartments have large conical domes, 36 feet high, sup- ported by a column of chalk, 43 yards in circumference ; the bottom of the cavern (which is descended by a flight of steps) is 50 feet from the entrance, and at the extre- mities 160 feet : the sides and roofs are also rocks of chalk, and the bottom a fine dry sand : 170 feet under ground is a well of clear water, 27 feet deep. Blackheathhas been the theatre of many historical events of interest. It was here the Danish army lay encamped in 1011 ; here Wat Tyler mustered 100,000 men ; Jack Cade also encamped here for a month, together with a large body of rebels, in 1451. The following year, Henry VI. pitched his royal pavilion here, having assembled troops to oppose his cousin Edward, Duke of York ; and here, against that king, Fauconbridge encamped. In 1499, the Lord Audley, Flammock, an attorney, and Joseph, the blacksmith, eu" camped here in the rebellion they raised against Henry VIL, and here they were routed with the loss of 2,000 men on the spot, and 14,000 prisoners. This heath is likewise celebrated for" being the spot for receiving and meeting celebrated persons and sovereigns BLACKWALL. 159 on their return from victorious expeditions. In 1415, the lord mayor and aldermen, with 400 citizens in scarlet, and with white and red hoods, came hither to receive Henry v., on his return from France, after the battle of Agincourt. In 1474, here was met Edward IV., on his return from France. Of foreign princes may be noticed, among others who have been received here, Maurice, Emperor of Con- stantinople, who came to solicit aid against the Turks. December 21, 1411 ; he was met with great magnificence by Henry IV. In 1416, the Emperor Sigismond was met here, and conducted with great pomp to London. In 1618, the Lord Admiral of France, and the Archbishop of Paris, ambassadors from the French King, with 1,200 attendants, were met here by the Admiral of England and 500 gentle- men ; and the following year. Cardinal Campejus, being attended hither by many of the gentlemen of Kent, was met by the Duke of Norfolk, with numerous attendants, and in a tent of cloth of gold he put on his cardinal's robes, and thence made his entry into London. Here also Henry VIII. met the Princess Anne of Cleves in great state. BLACKWALL, a hamlet of Stepney, Middlesex, 2 miles east from London, near the mouth of the River Lea, which falls into the Thames just below. Here are wet-docks cut across the Isle of Dogs, with ranges of commodious ware- houses on each side, at which the largest ships may load and unload with the greatest ease and security, and several hundred sail of vessels may be wwking at once. The cut being double, ships may pass through one lock, and proceed lip the river, and by the other branch they may pass down. This place is also remarkable for a most extensive ship- yard and wet-dock, the largest private one in Europe. It can receive 28 large East Indiamen, and upwards of fifty sail of vessels of smaller burden. On the south quay are four cranes for landing guns, anchors, &c. On the east quay are accommodations for landing cargoes from the Greenland ships ; and adjoining are coppers for boiling the blubber, with spacious warehouses for lodging the oil 160 BLECIUNGLV. and whalebone. On the west quay is an extensive build- ing for laying the sails and rigging of the Indiamen, with machinery for masting and dismasting the ships. On each end of the north bank are houses for watchmen, who guard the ship night and day, with rooms for the sailors to cook in, there being neither light nor fire permitted on board while a ship is in dock. In digging this dock in 1790, vast quantities of roots and pieces of trees were found in a perfect state, although they must have lain there for ages : the tops of the trees all lay towards the south. This ex- tensive property was, some years ago, purchased by Sir Robert Wigram, and now belongs to Messrs. Wigram and Greens. At this place, on the banks of the Thames, are several houses of entertainment, famous for white bait. On the Lea, near at hand, are some copperas works, the most complete of the kind in the kingdom. BLECHINGLY, a small market-town in Surrey, 2 miles south from Godstone, and 21 from London, is pleasantly situate on an eminence at the side of Holmesdale, and is chiefly noted for having possessed a castle, and been a borough, returning two members to parliament, from the 23 Edw. I. till the passing of the Reform Bill. The manor of the parish was, at the Domesday survey, the pro- perty of Richard de Tonbridge, in whose family it con- tinued to the ninth generation. It was afterwards carried, by marriage, to the StafFords, Dukes of Buckingham, and formed part of the settlement made by Henry YIII. on his divorced Queen, Anne of Cleves. The Howards Lords Effingham, and the Mordaunts Earls of Peterborough, were successively owners of this estate, till, in 1677, it was bought by Sir Robert Clayton, one of whose successors, in 1788, sold the reversion to his maternal relation, John Kenrick, Esq., in whose family it remains. The castle is supposed to have been originally built by Richard de Tonbridge. This castle stood at the western extremity of the town, on what is now a coppice, on a bold brow of a hill, commanding an extensive view of Holmes- BOO — BOX. 161 dale in every direction. In Aubrey's time (1673), a piece of a wall was standing, but tlie foundations only are now to be found. The churcli is a large and handsome structure, with a square tower containing eight bells ; it had formerly a lofty oaken spire, covered with shingles, but this was destroyed by lightning in 1606. There is a nave, a south aisle, double chancel, and a transept called Ham Chapel. The south chancel is entirely occupied by the magnificent mo- nument of the first Sir Robert Clayton and his lady, with their whole-length figures, in white marble. In this church are also interred Dr. John Thomas, Bishop of Rochester, and his wife, (a Clayton). The bishop, as well as Dr. Herring, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, was rector of this parish. Near the church are a free-school and some almshouses. An ancient mansion, called Blechingly Place, formerly stood here, (in Brewer-street) and was the residence of Edward Duke of Buckingham, beheaded by Henry VIII. The house was pulled down by one of the Earls of Peter- borough, and now the porter's lodge only remains, which has been converted into a farm-house. BOOKHAM, Great, a village in Surrey, pleasantly situate near Leatherhead. The church is of flint inter- mixed with square chalk stones, and has a shingled spire. In this parish are Eastwick House, Bookham Green (late Lady Downe's) the seat of S. Mackey, Esq., and Polesden (which see). BOOKHAM, Little, a small parish of about 25 houses, adjoining Great Bookham. The rectory and manor are united, Mrs. Pollen being lady of the manor and patroness of the living. The church is exceedingly small, con- sisting of a nave only with a chancel, and having one bell in a wooden tower, and a small spire. The font is a large round basin. BOTLEYS, Surrey, 2 miles S.W. from Chertsey, (between Sandgate and Timber-hill) the seat of D. Hall, 162 BOW liOX. Esq. is a stone mansion of striking appearance, with a pediment in the centre of the west front, and situate in a park, well wooded, and abounding with game. The grounds are adorned with a fine lake, with a hath at one end. BOW, a village in Middlesex, 2 miles E. from London, on the great Essex road. It is situate on the river Lea, along the banks of which are numerous mills and factories, and over which is a bridge into Essex, which is thought by some to have been built by Maud, wife of Henry I,, while others suppose it to be as ancient as the times of Alfred, w^hose arms are carved upon the centre stone on the left hand from London, and that it was the first stone bridge built in England, taking its name from its curved arches. Here was anciently a nunnery, of which no re- mains now exist. Bow church, which was built by Henry II., has a very venerable appearance, standing on the high road , it was made parochial in 1740, having been, until then, a chapel of ease to Stepney. This place was once noted for an extensive porcelain manufactory, but nothing of the kind now remains ; as also for a very dissolute fair, now suppressed. ■ BOX HILL, 2 miles N.E. of Dorking, Surrey, rising from the east bank of the river Mole, within the pre- cincts of the manor of West B etch worth, and doubtless so named from the quantity of box growing on it. The entire elevation is finely chequered with yew and box trees. The generally-received opinion is, that the box was planted here by Thomas Earl of Arundel, in the reign of Charles I. ; but there is evidence of its existence long- before his time ; for, Henry and Adam de Buxeto (of Box- hill) were witnesses to deeds in the reign of King John. The box has, at various times, produced great profit to the proprietors of the estate. In an account taken in 17 1^^, it is supposed that as much had been cut down within a few years before that date as amounted to 3,000/. One of the principal purposes to which box- wood is applied is BOX-IIILL. 163 for wood-engraviiig's. The English box is esteemed for this purpose inferior to that brought from the Levant, and such quantities were brought by the Levant ships as ballast, that the wood on Ecx-hill was not in request, and consequently not cut for 65 years; but the war having diminished the influx from the Mediterranean, several purchasers offered, and, in 1789, while the late Sir Henry Miidmay was possessor of this estate, the box growing on it was put up to auction and sold for 15,000Z. ; the pur- chaser to be allowed 14 years to cut it down. In the course of the last year only of the 14, 40 tons were cut ; and the consequence of thus glutting the market is, that the wood has fallen nearly 50 per cent., though the art of wood-engraving was never more flourishing than at pre- sent. The foreign wood, however, is still universally preferred, and the trees on Box-hill, from these combined causes, are now thriving. This hill rises to a height of 445 feet perpendicular above the Mole. At the base is Burford Bridge, where there is a commodious and well-conducted little inn, called the Fox and Hounds, famous for the resort of new- married pairs, and others, who seek for a time the plea- sures of rural scenery and quiet. Here the gallant Nelson, in company with Sir William and Lady Hamilton, enjoyed several days of calm retirement a short time before he quitted England to take the command in one of his glorious expeditions. The ascent of the hill, though steep, is not difficult ; a number of green spots intervene between the trees, with well-trodden walks. From the summit, on a clear day, the intervening country is visible southward quite to the South Downs of Sussex, and northward beyond the metropolis, over a great part of Middlesex. On looking down, the river Mole is seen v/inding round the eminence as though directly under the spectator's feet. The valley immediately beneath is dotted with numerous beautiful seats, finely wooded, and very richly cultivated. 164 BRAS — BIIAY. A stump of wood, rising from one of the prominent points of the hill, denotes the burial-place of Major Lahelliere, an officer in the Marines. This gentleman, in earlj life, fell in love with a lady who rejected his ad- dresses ; a circumstance which inflicted a deep wound on his mind. It was not, however, till many years after, that his reason became actually obscured. At this time, the late Duke of Devonshire, who had formerly been very fond of his company, allowed him a pension of 100/. a-year for life. He resided at Chiswick, w^hence he fre- quently w^alked to London, followed by a tribe of ragged boys, whom he w^ould occasionally harangue, both his pockets being generally filled to an overflow with newspapers and political pamphlets. From Chiswick he came to settle at Dorking ; where, from his utter inatten- tion to common cleanliness, he acquired the appellation of ^' the walking-dunghill.'^ By his own request he was buried, without church-rites, on this beautiful eminence, with his head downwards, it being a constant assertion with him that " the world was turned topsy-turvy, and therefore, at the end of it, he should be all right." BRASTEAD PLACE, near Westerham, Kent, is the elegant villa of the Rev — ■ Gibbons. BRAY, a village in Berks, one mile south from Maiden- head, and twenty-five from London^ situate on the banks of the Thames. An almshouse was founded here in 1640, by William Goddard, Esq., for forty poor persons, each having a house and 8s. a month. Here is also a free- school for boys. This place is famous for its versatile and accommodating vicar (Simon Symonds), who, accord- ing to Fuller, shifted his religion four times, having been twice a Papist, and twice a Protestant, in the reign of Henry VIII. and his three successors; his determination being, under whatever circumstances, to live and die Vicar of Bray. Here is Braywick Grove, the seat of W. B.Atkins, Esq., and Brayuick Lodge^ the seat of Admiral West. In the neighbourhood is Canon Hill, an elegant BRENTWOOD. 165 villa, with extensive pleasure-grounds, tastefully dis- posed. BTIENTFORD, a long-, dirty, and disagreeable market- town in Middlesex, Situate on a brook called the Brent, which here flows into the Thames. Here are an extensive pottery, a large flour-mill, brick and tile-kilns, a malt- distillerj^, and other factories, &c., affording employment to a vast number of persons. Thi» town is one of the greatest thoroughfares in England. The church was ori- ginally built in the reign of Edward I., but rebuilt, except the tower, in 1654. 'J he town has a good market on Tues- days, two fairs in the 3'ear, in May and September, and is lighted with gas. Beyond Brentford is Sion House, which see ; and on the opposite side of the Thames is Kew Palace, with its gardens. — See Keiv, B RE N T WO O D , eighteen miles east from London, a town in Essex, which anciently had a market, assizes, a town- hall, and a prison, is pleasantly situate on an eminence ; but the houses are generally old and irregular. Here is an excellent free-school, endowed by Sir Anthony Browne, Knight, sergeant-at-law, of Weald Hall, by letters-patent of Queen Mary and her consort Philip of Spain, dated 5th of July, 1557. This school receives boys from any place wdthin three miles, and has usually between sixty and seventy scholars, all on the foundation, and admitted without 9,ny expense whatever. They are instructed in Greek, Latin, English, mathematics, writing, and arithmetic. Besides this school, there are five alms- houses at Brentwood, and some other charities. There are both a church and a chapel at this place. The former, which stands on an eminence, is a handsome edifice, with a massive stone tower, of considerable height, which forms a conspicuous object for some miles round. The chapel was built about 1221, by the Abbot and Convent of St. Osyth, for the use of their tenantry, and in it a chantry was founded for the soul of Isabel, Ck)untess of Bedford ; it was dedicated to St. Mary, and 166 BRICKLEY — BRIXTON. a chaplain was instituted in 1393, at the presentation of Edward Duke of York and others. The perquisites of the chaplain depended anciently on the gifts of travellers, and such as came hither out of devotion, after whom, a gate in this parish, on the road to Ongar, was named, and is still called, Pilgrims' Hatch. Some Roman vessels and other relics, dug up near this place, have given rise to a conjecture that Brentwood w^as anciently a Roman station ; but there is little to support such an opinion. BRICKLEY PLACE, near Bromley, in Kent, the hand- some seat and plantation of John Welles, Esq., a gentleman who has very extensive possessions in farm and other lands in this neighbourhood. BRIXTON CAUSEWAY AND HILL, Surrey, three miles south of London, on the Croydon road , form a new town (risen within the last quarter of a century out of brick- fields) , both extensive and populous, though not legiti- mately even a villagej and are named after the hundred in which they are situate, which, undoubtedly, was so denominated from a stone or pillar, erected by one Brixi, a Saxon proprietor in these parts, and memorable in its time as one of the boundary-marks of a manor in Lam- beth, belonging to the Abbey of Waltham, A.D., 1602. The district forms part of the parish of Lambeth, but it possesses a chapelry (a new church having been built here within these few years), and had, in 1825, attained suffi- cient importance to be nominated, by an order of council, one of the five districts into which Lambeth was thence- forth to be divided. In this neighbourhood, of which Lord Holland is the ground landlord, there are numerous genteel, and some splendid residences, the villas chiefly of rich citizens and other men of business, some constrained to make daily visits to London, and others " retired," and delighting in ** country quarters near the three-mile stone." Here is the House of Correction for the county, in BROCKET HALL — BROCKLEY, 167 wlncli vagrants and other prisoners, committed to hard labour, are employed at a tread-miil. BROCKET HALL, Herts, three miles N.W. from Hat- field, the magnificent seat of Viscount Melbourne, occu- pies the site of an ancient edifice, which belonged to the family of Brocket. The mansion, begun by the late Sir Matthew Lamb, was completed by his son, the late Lord Melbourne, who made great improvements in the park, and rendered it one of the most elegantly pic- turesque in the kingdom. Mr. Paine was the architect, who likewise executed the beautiful bridge over the spacious sheet of water that enriches the scenery. The park occupies a great extent of country, reaching from the top of Brickwall-hill N. to two miles S. by W. on the Whethamstead-road. Here, during many successive years, the late king George IV., when Prince of Wales, was entertained with horse-racing. The ball-room is fitted up with extreme taste and elegance. The ceiling was painted by Mortimer and Wheatley, the designs being principally by the former, and the colouring by the latter. The subjects are principally allegorical, and re- present morning, noon, &c., the four seasons, and the different quarters of the globe. In the centre is painted an eagle, from whose beak an elegant glass lustre chan- delier is suspended. There are also ten smaller chande- liers in different parts of the room. At the upper end of this room is a whole-length portrait, by Sir Joshua Rey- nolds, of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, when nineteen years of age, standing by his charger : here, also, are portraits, by the same master, of Viscountess Melbourne and Sir Penistone Lamb. The other prin- cipal apartments are also fitted up with much elegance, and contain a very excellent collection of pictures. The ceilings of the library and dining-room were painted by Mortimer. BROCKLEY HILL, two miles N.W. of Edgeware, is supposed to have been the Roman station SuUoniacis, and 168 BROMLEY. many Roman remains have been dug and ploughed up in the neighbourhood. On the hill is an obelisk, which refers to the occupation of this spot bj the Cassii and the llomans. BROMLEY, a village in Middlesex, near Bow, two miles east from London, much increased of late years, and still increasing, by newly-erected houses. Here was formerly a palace of King James I., and a Benedictine nunnery, said to have been founded in the reign of William the Conqueror. The chapel of the latter forms the greater portion of the present parish church, which lies at some distance from the road, and has a venerable and monastic appearance. In this neighbourhood are numerous suburban residences. BROMLEY, a considerable market- town in Kent, ten miles S.E. from London, on the Tunbridge-road. Near the town, on the right of the road hence to Chislehurst, is a palace of the Bishops of Rochester, where there is a chalybeate spring, of a quality similar to that at Tun- bridge. The church is a very ancient structure, with a cupola and embattled tower. It contains a monument to Dr. Hawkesworth, author of the " Adventurer," who died here in 1773. In this church were also interred Walter de Hinche, John Y'oung, John Buckeridge, and Zachary Pearce, Bishops of Rochester, and Elizabeth, wife of Dr. Samuel Johnson. In the churchyard is an excellent epitaph, by Hawkesworth, on Elizabeth Monk. In this town is a most noble institution — a college for clergymen's widows, erected by Warner, Bishop of Rochester, in the reign of Charles II., for the accommo- dation of twenty ladies and a chaplain, with an allowance of 20/. per annum to each lady, and 50/. to the chaplain — since augmented, through the munificence of the Rev. Mr. Hetherington and Bishop Pearce (the former of whom gave 2,000/., and the latter 5,000/., in aid of the purposes of this excellent establishment), to 30/. 10^. per annum each lady, and to 60/, for the chaplain. The college now lUlO BRU. 169 •accommodates forty widows of clergymen of the esta* blished cliiircli. This was the first institution of the kind in England. The college is a large and handsome build- ing, with extensive pleasure-grounds, disposed after the fashion of the old school, and kept in the neatest order. Bromley is surrounded by genteel seats ; itself, a large and busy town, rather narrow-streeted and ill-built, but its vicinity most agreeable either for riding or walking. See Brickleif Place and Tunhridge House. BROMPTON, a healthy village in the suburbs of London, adjoining Knightsbridge, and being a hamlet to Kensington. The neighbourhood contains some good houses, and many nursery-grounds, but nothing remarkable. Oliver Cromwell is erroneously stated to have occupied a house here, called Hale House, late the property of Sir Jolm Fleming, Bart. BROXBOURN, a pleasant village in Herts, fifteen miles north from London, situate on an eminence, with meadows down to the river Lea and the New River, by botli of which streams it is watered. It is, in consequ-ence, a place much frequented by anglers, and, perhaps, one of the nearest from London in which good sport may be expected. It is particularly noticed by Walton, who made the ale-house, near Broxbouin-hill, his frequent abode, and the Lea his continual resort, and the theme of his amusing work. The church of Broxbourn is a hand- some building, containing many fine and ancient monu- ments ; the wooden ceilings of the chancel and chapel are remarkable. Here is Broxbourn Bury, a handsome structure in a park, commanding some fine views, the seat of J. Bosan-i* qu t. Esq, BRUCE CASTLE, Tottenham, Middlesex, five miles north from London, obtained its name from Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, one of the ancient possessors of the manor. Being forfeited to the crown, it had dillerent Q 170 BRYCES. proprietors, till 1631, when it was in the possession of Hugh Hare, Lord Coleraine. Henry Hare, the last Lord Coleraine of that family, having been deserted by his wife, the daughter of John Hanger, Esq., who obstinately I'efused, for twenty years, to return to him, formed a con- nexion with Miss Rose Duplessis, a French lady, by whom he had a daughter, born in Italy, whom he named Henrietta Kosa Perigrina, and to whom he left all his estates. This lady married the late Mr. Alderman Townsend ; but, being an alien, she could not take the estates ; and the will having been legally made, barred the heirs at law ; so that the estates escheated to the crown. However, a grant of these estates^ confirmed by act of parliament, was made to Mr. Townsend and his lady, whose son, Henry Hare Townsend, Esq., in 1792, sold all his estates here to the late Thomas Smith, Esq. This seat is partly ancient and partly modern. Near the house, to the south-west, is a deep well, over which is an ancient brick tower, the upper part of which serves as a dairy. It is now the residence of J. Ede, Esq. BRYCES, an ancient house in the parish of Kelvedon Hatch, Essex, about a mile beyond Hare-street, was so named from Thomas Bryce, citizen and mercer of Lon- don, by whom it was erected, in 1498. He sold it, in I5l5, to Sir John Allen, alderman of London, from whom it was conveyed, in 1528, to John Catchmaid, from whom passing to Edward Ncrthey, attorney-at-law, he, in 1548, conveyed it to Richard Pettus, of an ancient family in Norfolk; and his daughter, or grandaughter, Elizabeth, was married to Sir Francis Jones, alderman of London, in 1620 lord mayor. Mary Jones, his daughter, was married to Ralph Pettus, son of William, brother of Sir John Pettus, Bart., to whom she conveyed a fortune of 6,000/., accounted a great sum at that time. During the civil wars, Ralph, being of the royal party, was sequestered for 800/., and had to mortgage this estate, BUL — BL'R. 171 wliich he could never afterwards redeem. It became the property of the Glascock family ; and now belongs to William Dalby, Esq. BULSTRODE, three miles S.E. from Beaconsfield, Bucks, was the seat of the late Duke of Portland, of whose executors it was purchased by the Duke of Somerset. In more ancient times it was the property of a family named Bulstrode, one of the heiresses of which was mother of Sir Bulstrode Whitelocke, a celebrated statesman and historian. It belonged afterwards to the infamous Lord Chancellor JefFeries, on whose attainder it was granted by William III. to the first Earl of Portland. Here is a noble mansion, much neglected, and a park dis- posed with great taste into numerous swells and Slopes, set off by scattered plantations. The country around is flat and uninteresting. BURGHSTED, or Burstead, Great and Little, two parishes and villages in Essex, each about twenty-three miles from London, and within two of Billericay. The village of Great Burstead anciently belonged to Stratford Abbey. It has a church, of which the pointed arch to the entrance- door, on the north, is worthy of notice. The vicarage-house is beautifully situate. Here are an alms- house for poor females, and a small free-school for ten children. There are three manors in the parish — Bur- stead Grange and Blunt' s Walls, both belonging to Lord Petre, and Broomhills, the property of Sir Thomas Neave, Bart. The village of Little Burstead consists of a few scat- tered houses, and the whole parish contains only about 200 inhabitants. The church is small, and in an obscure situation : it contains several memorials of the Walton family, especially one of the Hon. Sir George Walton, Knt., admiral of the Blue, who signalized himself on several occasions, but especially by the destruction, in 1718, of the Spanish fleet near Messina; on which occa- sion he thus laconically communicated with Sir George 172 Byng: "Sir — We have taken and destrojed all the Spanish ships and vessels which were upon the coastj number as per margin. I am, Sir, &c." This brave officer died in 1739, aged 74. There are two manors in this parish, both belonging to the Earl of Z^rran. BURNHAM, a village in Bucks, on the road to Eath, three miles east from Maidenhead, and twentj-four from London, is noted for having had a nunnery, built by Richard, King of the Romans, son of King John. In a farm-house, commonly called Burnham Abbey, are still some remains of this ancient edifice. Of this parish was vicar William Cole, the well-known Cambridge antiquarj^ who died in 1782, and whose voluminous collections are now in the British Museum. Here is Dropmore, the delightful retirement of the late Lord Grenville ; Burnham Grove, the seat of Sir VV. Jolmson, and several other plea- sant villas. See Dropmore. BURWOOD PARK, near Walton, Surrey, the elegant villa of Sir John Fredrick, Bart., having park and plea- sure-grounds to the extent of upwards of 400 acres. BURY HILL, near Dorking, Surrey, a handsome modern structure, with a lawn in front, sloping to a fine sheet of water, and backed by extensive pleasure-grounds ■ — the seat of Charles Barclay, Esq. BUSH HILL, a delightful eminence, in the parish of Edmonton, three quarters of a mile S.W. of Enfield, and eight from London. Here was formerly a wooden aque- duct for obviating the inequality of the level of the New River. It was in the grounds of Sir Hugh My del ton, who had a residence here, now greatly altered, and the seat of Isaac Currie, Esq. On Bush-hill are some remains of an intrenchment, supposed by some to be of Roman, by others, of British construction. On a fine situation on this hill stands the beautiful seat of the late William Mellish, P:^sq., many years M. P. for Middlesex, called Biish-hill-parh. The New River winds througli the grounds, which are very tastefully BUSHEY. disposed, and the mansion commands some pleasing pro- spects over Epping Forest and the vale of the Lea. Near the house is a clump of fine firs, called " the Bishops." BUSHEY, a village in Herts, one mile and a half S. E. from Watford, and eighteen miles and a half from London. Adjoining, is a spacious common called Bushey -heath. It extends nearly to Stanmore, and rising to a considerable height, commands a delightful prospect of the metropolis, Hampton-court, St. Alban's, Windsor, and the Thames. Colonel Titus, who, in a pamphlet, entitled " Killing No Murder," advised the assassination of Cromwell, was born at Bushey. Here are several seats— the Manor Houses H. Clephano, Esq.; Bushey Grovey D. Haliburton, Esq.; Bushey Farm, B. Burchell, Esq. ; and the retirements of Colonel Beaufoy and Mr. Baron Vaughan. BUSHEY PARK, a royal park, near Hampton Court, Middlesex ; the first entrance to which is at Teddington, twelve miles from London, or at Hampton Wick, eleven miles (through Kingston)— the former being the only tho- roughfare for carriages, or vehicles of any description, and, consequently, the usual road taken by all company from London. From the Teddington-gate to Hampton-court is a fine level road through the park, skirted on each side by a noble avenue of horse-chesnuts, backed by splendid elms. When the horse-chesnuts are in bloom (usually towards the latter end of May), the avenue, at all times delightful, whether for riding or walking, affords the lover of nature one of the finest sights in Europe. On the right of the road, in the park, is the house long inhabited by William IV., at the time when he was Duke of Clarence, and appropriated by Parliament as the residence of his queen after his demise. The park is diversified by clumps of trees, in various directions, among which are many luxu- riant specimens of the white hawthorn or may, and the surface is in parts varied with some taste. Herds of deer 174 BYF— CAE. and sheep, belonging to his late Majesty, browse on the fern and mossy herbage. The latter is peculiarly soft and carpet* like to the tread of the pedestrian. Between the avenues are seats, and the whole of the park is at all times open to the public. There are four entrances : 1, at Ted- dington; 2, at Hampton Court; 3, at Hampton Wick; and, 4, near the town of Hampton. The air here is par- ticularly dry and salubrious, and the walks, in all direc- tions, delightful. Many gipsy-parties are held here in fine weather. On an engraved portrait of a native of Hampton Wick (which we have seen), is the following inscription : — " Timothy Bennet, of Hampton Wick, in Middlesex, shoemaker, aged 75, 1752. This true Briton, unwilling to leave the world worse than he found it, by a vigorous application of the laws of his country in the caused of liberty, obtained a free passage through Bushey Par/c, which had long been withheld from the people." Such was, we are told, the fact ; with this exception, that Bennet was the ostensible prosecutor, acting under the support of his richer neighbours. BY FLEET, a small village in Surrey, two miles from Cobham, and twenty-two from London. Here is a small church with several monuments, but none of any particular interest. Henry VIII. was nursed in this village, in which also, it is said, there was anciently a royal palace. Byfleet Lodge is the seat of R. Bowyer, Esq., and Byfleet Park, of Mrs. Langton. CAEN WOOD, Middlesex, between Hampstead and Highgate, the beautiful seat of the Earl of Mansfield, was purchased, in 1755, of the Earl of Bute, by the first Earl of Mansfield, then attorney-general, who improved the whole with great elegance, after designs of the cele- brated architects of the Adelphi. The grand front, which is near the side of the road leading from Highgate to Hampstead, is opposite the wood that gives name to the house. The garden-front, which is more extensive than CAr.N WOOD. 175 the other, commands a fine view of rich meadows, falling in a gentle descent, and relieved by some noble pieces of water (the reservoirs of the Hampstead water-works), that supply part ©f the metropolis : this view is terminated by the spires of London, and the distant hills of Kent. The most remarkable room in the house is the Library, a beau- tiful apartment, 60 feet by ^1, designed by Adams, and ornamented with paintings, by Zucchi. In this room is a whole-length of the first Earl, by Martin, and a fine bust of him, by Nollekens. There is another bust of his lord- ship, when young, in the hall ; one of Sir Isaac Newton ; and the antique bust of Homer, which was bequeathed to the first Lord Mansfield, by Pope. The paintings in the Hall are by Kebecca. In the breakfast-parlour is a bust of Pope, and a portrait of Sir Christopher Hatton. In the other rooms are some portraits, well deserving of notice ; j)articularly those of Pope, Garrick, the Duchess of Queensberry, and a good head of Betterton, the tragedian, said to be by Pope, who had been instructed in the art of painting by his friend Jarvis ; two landscapes, supposed by Claude ; a piece, by Teniers ; and Wilkie's Village Politicians. Here, too, are some fine portraits, among which is the picture of the Chief-Justice, by Sir Joshua Keynolds. The Music Boom was painted by Julius Ibbetson, and exhibits, in pannels, the various operations of agriculture (fancifully represented as carried on by ynattired children), interspersed with views in North Wales, sweetly delineated. On the death of the Earl of Mansfield, in 1792, the title and estate devolved to his nephew, the late Viscount Stormont, who improved and enlarged this house very considerably (under the direction of Saunders, the architect); he dying, in 1794, his son, the present earl, enjoys the estate, and he also has made improvements. The pleasure-grounds, including the wood, which gives name to the place, contain about 50 acres. Their situation is naturally beautiful ; and the hand of art has been sue- 176 CAMBERWELL; . cessfuUy employed in making- tliem still more picturesque. On the right of the garden-front of the house is a hang- ing-wood of tall spreading trees : and, on the left, the rising hills are planted with clumps, that produce a pleasing effect. A fine shrubhery, immediately before this front, and a serpentine piece of watei, render the whole a very enlivening scene. The cedars of Libanus, though young, are fine, and are shot up to a great height, with their leaders entire. One of them was planted by the first earl with his own hands. The inclosed fields, adjoining to the pleasure-grounds, containing about 30 acres. Hornsey great woods, held by the Earl of Mans- field, under the Bishop of London, join this estate on the north, and have been lately added to the inclosures. CAMBERWELL, Surrey, the church of which is abont 2^ miles from the bridges, is an extensive parish, including Peckham and Dulwich. The village itself is considerable, containing numerous excellent houses, and some which must be termed mansions, the residences of wealthy merchants and others. The Grove, which is a well-gravelled walk, ascending for about half a mile, with an avenue of stately trees, and the Grove Hill, exactly on a level with it, are both lined with elegant villas. At the summit of the hill is the residence of the late amiable and benevolent Dr. Lettsom (now the seat of Charles Baldwin, Esq.) It is a plain structure, with low wings, and the front is adorned with emblematical figures, in artificial stone, representing Liberality and Plenty, with Flora in the centre. The interior is handsomely fitted up, and the grounds are ornamented with temples, sta- tues, &c. A fountain is supplied by pipes, by an ample spring issuing from the summit of the hill, and collected in a sheet of water or canal ; which, rising through the centre of an elegant composition in Portland stone, forms the Jet d'eau. Prom the spring which supplies the canal, the ▼illuge of Camberwell derives its name ; and the plac^ CAxVIBl-RWELL. 177 where it rises tradition has marked as the spot where George Barnwell murdered his uncle ; an incident which gave rise to Lillo's well-known tragedy. The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is near the extre- mity of the village, on the road to Peckham ; it is . of flint and rough stone, and consists of a nave, a chancel of singular form, (hexagonal) and two aisles ; at the west end is a small embattled tower, with a turret. The pre- sent structure is supposed to have been erected in the beginning of the reign of Henry VIII. ; the windows and the arches of the nave being of the architecture of that period. The north aisle was probably built in 1520, that date being on the east window^ which lately contained some portraits painted on the glass, thought to be of the Muschamp fami'}^. The south-western portion of this edifice was much enlarged in 1786. Against the north wall, is a small monument, with the effigy of a woman kneeling ; beneath is the following inscription : — Lo ! Muchas' stock a fruitfull braunch did bringe, Adornde with vertues fit for ladies brighte ; Sir Thomas Hunt on May-day's pleasaunt spring, Possest the Frowe that was his soule's delighte. His lovely Jane had two sons by Thos. Grimes, Esq. and daughters three. With wealth and vertues meet for their degree. When twice seven yeares, six months, ten days, were spent In wedlock's bands, and loyall love's delight, November twelfth daye, then she was content This world to leave and give to God his right : Her sixty- three years full, complete and ended. Her soule to God, to earth her corps commended. 1G04." On the north wall of the chancel is a monument to the memory of John Scott, Esq., Baron of the Exchequer, who died in 1532, with figures in brass of himself, his Vv'ife, and eleven children. In the chancel is a monument, inlaid with jdates of brass, representing the ligures of a 178 CAM — CAN. man and woman kneeling at a table, witli their cliildren, eight sons and three daughters ; underneath, is an in- scription to the memory of John Bowyer, Esq., who died in 1570. A new church, dedicated to St. George, has lately been erected in this parish, on the south bank of the Surrey Canal, near the high road from London, It is built in the Grecian style, from designs by R. Bedford, Esq., and possesses considerable elegance. The steeple is of some originality, between a tower and a spire, and there is an excellent peel of six bells. ' Adjoining the old church is a free grammar-school for boys, founded by the vicar, the Rev. Edward Wilson, in the reign of James I., and endowed with 7 acres of land. The present master is the Rev. W. Jephson, M.A. In the free- school there are generally upwards of 50 boys under a course of education. See Denmark Hill, Heme Hill, and Champion HilL CAMDEN TOWN, an extensive and still increasing precinct of the pari^ of St. Pancras, so called from its having been commenced in 1791, on ground belonging to the late Earl Camden, whose successor is still lord of the manor. In Great College-street is the Veterinary Col- lege, (which see) of which we have before spoken briefly in our account of London. At the back of it, in the King's-road, leading to Kentish-town, is rhe seat of Mr. Agar, the King^s Counsel, with extensive grounds, through which the Regent's-canal passes. CAMPDEN HOUSE, a venerable structure at Ken- sington, Middlesex, was built in 1612, by Sir Baptist Hickes, who had been a mercer in Cheapside, and was afterwards created Viscount Campden. Here Queen Anne, when Princess of Denmark, resided five years with her son the Duke of Gloucester. This mansion is now a ladies' boarding-school. CANONBURY, a hamlet to the parish of Islington, about half a mile to the N.E. of Islington church. The CANONBURY. manor of Canonbuiy, in the reign of Edward III., was granted, by Sir Ralph de Berners, to the prior and canons of St. Bartholomew, in West Smithfield, in whose posses- sion it continued till the Dissolution ; when it was sur- rendered to Henry VIII., by Bobert Fuller, abbot of Waltbam, and prior commendatory of St. Bartholomew. 'Jliomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, and John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, on whom it was afterwards succes- sively bestowed, both perished on the scaffold. After the attainder of the former, the divorced Anne of Cleves had an annuity of 201. from this manor towards her jointure. Queen Mary, in 1557, granted the manor to Thomas Lord Wentworth, who, in 1570, alienated it to the celebrated and affluent Sir John Spencer, Knt. and Bart, (commonly called " Rich Spencer,") who so greatly distinguished himself by his public spirit during his mayoralty in Lon- don in 1595. Elizabeth, his only daughter and heiress, married William, second Lord Compton, Lord-President of Wales, who is traditionally said to have contrived her elopement, from her father's house at Canonbury, in a haker'*s basket. In August, 1618, Lord Compton was created Earl of Northampton; and from him the present owner of Canonbury, who is the ninth Earl and first Marquess of Northampton, is lineally descended. Canonbury Tower formed part of the spacious man- sion, which was originally built by the priors of St. Bartholomew for their country residence, and which nearly covered the entire site of Canonbury-place ; it had also a park, with large gardens, a fish-pond, and various domestic offices. The tower itself (which is of brick), with the house to which it is attached, were erected by William Bolton, who was prior from 1509 till his decease in 1532 ; and whose rebus, a bird-bolt in a tun, appears in different parts of the wall. From tlie leads of this building, which is about 17 feet square, and 60 in height, is a delightful panoramic view comprehending a vast extent of country, teeming with towns and villages, and finely diversified by 180 f Alls II ALTON. hill find dale. In the summer-season, the tower building is let out in apartments. It has been occupied by several individuals of much eminence in the republic of letters ; among- whom was Ephraim Chambers, the well-known compiler of the Cyclopsedia, the poet Goldsmith, and more recently Mr. Washington Irving, who speaks of it in his Sketch Book." Some interesting parts of the old mansion remain in three houses a little to the eastward of the tower, the middle one of which is now a boarding- school. The stuccoed ceilings and carved chimney-pieces in these dwellings are of the time of Queen Elizabeth. The more modern houses, on the west side of Canonbury-place, are very pleasant ; the gardens extend to the borders of the New River, which, by its serpentine course in this part, forms a most agreeable boundary. The Canonbury Tavern, with its tea-gardens, has long been celebrated as a place of summer recreation. CARSHALTON, a picturesque village in Surrey, 11 miles from the bridges. The name of this place has been singularly corrupted ; it was in Domesday-book written Aulton, which signifies old town ; about the reign of King John, it received the name of Kersaulton, which was afterwards varied in records to Kersalton, Carsalton, Cresalton, and Kresalton, but has now, for nearly two centuries, been written Carshalton, and commonly pro- nounced CasehaiL-ton, The Wandle passes through the village, and being increased by many springs which rise here, and by other streams from Croydon and Beddington, forms a large pool, or lake, near the church. Some manu- factories are on the banks. The church is on rising ground, near the centre of the village ; it consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel : the aisles are divided from the nave by ancient pillars of rude workmanship, and not uniform ; their capitals are ornamented with feathers and fohage. The aisles w^ere raised about the beginning of the present century, in order to make galleries, principally at the expense of Sir John Fellows uiid .§«ir William Scanen. (ARSH ALTON. 151 The present church appears to have been built originally of flints ; the chancel, the lower part of the aisles, and of the tower, being now composed of those materials ; the aisles were raised with brick : the tower, which is low and embattled, is situate between the chancel and nave ; the upper part of it is built of free-stone. At the east end of the north aisle is a massy monument of marble, to the memory of Sir John Fellows, who died July 28, 1724. At the east end of the south aisle, is a handsome monument, supported by Corinthian columns and pilasters, to the memory of Sir William Scawen, who was three times M.P. for the county of Surrey, and died, October, 1722, His effigy, in white marble, represents him in a loose robe and flowino: peruke, reclining on his right hand. In the same aisle, is a monument of black marble, supported by Ionic pillars, to the memory of Sir Edmund Hoskins, Knt., sergeant-at-law, who died in 1664. Against the north wall of the chancel, near the communion-table, is an altar-tomb of Purbeck marble ; over it is fixed in the wall a large slab of the same mate- rials, on which are upright figures of Nicholas Gaynes- ford and his family. These figures have been gilded and enamelled ; the enamel, in which the drapery of the wife has been painted, still remains, which is a circumstance rarely to be met with in tombs of this kind. Her head- dress, remarkable for its extraordinary size, corresponds with other specimens of the same date ; her robe, which has close sleeves, is of red, edged with gold ; of the four sons it may be observed, that the eldest appears in armour as the esquire, the second is habited as a priest, and the third and fourth as merchants ; Gaynesford him- self appears in armour, kneeling on one knee ; his gauntlet and sword are at his feet. Henry III. granted to this parish a weekly market on Tuesday, and an annual fair for three days, on St. Mary's-day, the vigil, and the day following. It 182 CARSHALTON. The manor-house of this parish is situate within a park, on the right hand of the road to Beddington. It is called Carslialton Park^ and is the seat of G. Taylor, Esq., lord of this manor. The house is a small stuccoed building ; the park, though limited in size, has some handsome trees and some deer ; a lake is formed within it by aid of the Wandle, and tastefully skirted with trees and shrubs. This was formerly the estate of Sir W. Scawen, who intended to have built a splendid stone mansion here, and had collected the materials for the purpose. In this vil- lage resided Dr. RatclilFe, the celebrated physician, and noble benefactor to the University of Oxford, to which he bequeathed his invaluable collection of books, still called the RatcliiFe Library. He was no less conspicuous for his great skill than for the bluntness of his manner, which spared no rank, however exalted. He gave great offence by his rudeness to King William and the Princess of Denmark ; the latter, when she came to the throne, re- fused to appoint him her physician : such, however, was the opinion of his skill, that he was often called upon for his advice, especially during her last illness. The doctor was then residing at Carshalton, whence he was sum- moned to attend her majesty; being himself ill with the gout, he refused to obey the summons, which, indeed, was irregular, as not coming from proper authority. His refusal, however, made him so unpopular, that, after the queen's death, he received several threatening letters, which gave him so much uneasiness, that his apprehen- sions of the revenge of the populace were thought to have hastened his own end. In a letter, dated Carshalton, August 3, 1714, he mentions the receipt of these letters, and declares his intention of not stirring from home. He died here the 1st of November following. His house at Carshalton was sold to Sir John Fellows, one of the governors of the South Sea Company, by whom it was rebuilt ; at which time, in levelling the ground to make an CANONS, OR CANNONS. 183 avenue, many bones were found. The house was after- wards the residence of Lord Chancellor Hardwicke. It is now called Carshalton House, and is the property of William Reynolds, Esq. CANONS) or Cannons, Middlesex, near Edgeware, the seat of Thomas Plumer, Esq., was formerly the villa of Dennis O'Kelly, Esq., of sporting memorj^, and master of the famous horse Eclipse (the grand source of his master's wealth^ whose remains are interred in the paddock front- ing the house. On the site of this villa, rose and vanished, in the last century, the splendid mansion, built in 1712, by James Bridges, first Duke of Chandos, who lived here in regal state. The decorations and furniture of this magnificent abode are said to have cost more than 250,000/. The pillars of the great hall w^ere of marble, as were the steps of the principal staircase, each step consisting of a single piece, 22 feet long. The locks and hinges were of silver or gold. The whole establishment was proportionately splendid in its minutest details. On the duke's death, in 1744, his fortune having been previously much diminished by the African Company, and the Mississippi and South-Sea schemes, aided by a consistent course of magnificence, the estate was sold, in separate lots, by auction. The marble staircase was purchased by the Earl of Chester- field, for his house in May Fair j the columns were bought for the portico of Wanstead House ; and the equestrian statue of George I., one of the numerous sculptures that adorned the grounds, is now the ornament of Leicester- square. One of the principal lots was purchased by Mr. Hallet, a cabinet-maker in Long Acre, who erected the present villa with the materials which composed his lot, Mr. Pope, in his poetical essay on the Use of Riches,'* has sarcastically, and, as some say, ungratefully, described Canons and its Duke, in the cutting lines, commencing " at Timon's villa let us pass a day,^' which, being too numerous for our pages, we must be content to refer to. 184 CASH — CHAR. CASHIOBURY PAUK, near Watford, Herts, the seat of the Earl of Essex, is supposed to have anciently be- longed to the kings of Mercia, until OfFa gave it to St. Alban's Abbej. Henry VIH. bestowed the manor on Richard Morison, Esq., from vrhom it passed to Arthur, Lord Capel, ancestor of the present noble proprietor. The mansion is an irregular pile of brick, of a castellated form, situate in a delightful park, about 4 miles in circum- ference, ornamented at its different avenues with very tasteful lodges. In the interior, besides some curious carved work and tapestry, are many elegant and valuable paintings, among which are several family and other por- traits. The grounds, which are highly picturesque, were originally laid out and planted by the celebrated Le Notre, but have lately been much modernized. Through them pass the River Gade, and the Grand Junction Canal. CECIL LODGE, near Abbots' Langley, Herts, now the seat of Captain White, was formerly a villa of the Marquess of Salisbury, during the lifetime of his father. CHALFONT, ST. PETER'S, a village in Bucks, 20 miles W. from London, in no respect remarkable, except that there are some rather pleasant seats in its vicinity — Chalfont House, R. Hibbert, Esq. ; the Grange, Orchard Farm, the Vicarage, and one or two others. CHALFONT, ST. GILES'S, another village in Bucks, 22 miles from London, is celebrated on account of being the place in which Milton wrote his sublime poem of Paradise Lost." Here is a school, endowed by Sir Hugh Palliser, for 20 boys, and 20 girls. In the vicinity are several pleasant seats — the Vache, R. Palliser, Esq. ; New Place, Sir Edmund Carrington, Bart. ; and Kewlands, T. Allan, Esq. CHAAJPION HILL, in the parish of Camberwell, but nearer to the village of Dulwich, an eminence studded with elegant houses, and attractive on account of its salu- brious situation and pleasing views. CHARLTON, a pleasant village in Kent, studded with CH A R LTO .\ CH £AM . 185 picturesque villas, situate on the borders of Blackheath, 6^ miles E. from London. The mansion-house here, a Gothic structure; with four turrets on the top, recently the residence of the benevolent Earl of Egmont, and now the seat of Sir Thomas Mary on Wilson, Bart., originally belonged to Sir Adam Newton, Dean of Durham, and preceptor to the eldest son of Kiug James I., who was a great benefactor to the church of Charlton, having left a considerable sum towards beautifying and enlarging it. At the Dissolution the manor of Charlton was possessed by the abbey of Bermondsey, one of the priors of which obtained a grant for a weekly market, and a yearly fair on the eve of Trinity Sunday, the tolls being for the benefit of the abbey ; but the former has been long disused, and the latter kept on St. Luke's-day. It is called Horn Fair, and the tradition concerning its origin is, that King- John, being hunting in the neighbourhood, and separated from his attendants, entered a cottage, where he debauched the mistress 3 but, being detected by her husband, he was obliged to make him compensation, by a grant of land extending from this place to Cuckold's Point, at the same time establishing a fair : but the true origin of the name appears to be from the great mart at this fair of various articles in horn, as combs, &c., manufactured from the horns and hoofs of cattle slaughtered in London. CHE AM, a village in Surrey, 11^ miles from London, situate on an eminence near Banstead Downs, within 2| miles of Eweil, well-built, of pleasing appearance, and commanding an extensive prospect. The church is dedi- cated to St. Dunstan ; it was injured by lightning in 1639, and this accident, with some subsequent alterations, has so altered the form of the edifice, that no conjecture can be formed of its date. At the south-east corner of the * church is a small chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, which was built before the year 1449, as appears by the will of John Yerde, who directed his body to be buried therein. He bequeathed his estates in Surrey, after the death of 186 cheam. his wife, to his second son John, to whom also he left four hundred muttons ; twenty shillings to the repair of the church, and twenty shillings to the high altar. His tomb is still to be seen, with an inscription on a brass plate much worn. There are small figures of himself and his wife Anne. Her head-dress resembles that of Margaret Gaynesford at Carshalton. At the east end of the chancel, from which it is sepa- rated by a skreen of wood, is an aisle built by John Lord Lumley, in 1592, as a burial-place for his family. The roof is enriched with pendant ornaments. Against the north wall is a monument of Lord Lumley. On a large tablet, supported by Corinthian columns, and surrounded with coats of arms of the Lumleys and families allied to them by marriage, is a long Latin inscription. On the south side of his lordship's chancel is a stately monument of marble, to the memory of Lady Jane Lumley, who died in 1577. In the upper part of it is her own effigy, kneeling, in basso-relievo ; beneath is an altar- tomb of very large dimensions on the front, which is divided into two compartments, are the figures of her daughter and two sons, kneeling ; and at each end are the arms and quarterings of Fitz-Alan and Lumley. The tomb is covered with a slab of black marble, 8 feet 5 inches in length, and 4 feet 2 inches and a half in breadth. It is a remarkable fact, that of six successive rectors of Cheam, from 1581 to 1662, five became bishops. The manor-house, at East Cheam, is an ancient struc- ture, of the time of Henry VII. It stands at about half a mile from the village, towards Sutton ; the hall remains in its original form, the upper part being surrounded by an open wooden gallery : adjoining the hall are the buttery and cellar, with ancient doors, and in the parlour is some rich mantled carving. The chapel has been converted into a billiard-room. J.Hilbert, Esq. is its possessor, and lord of the manor. J. Penfold, A. Palmer, and Thomas Farman, Esqrs. have seats here. CIIELSEA. 187 CHELSEA, a large and very populous village and parish in Middlesex, 2 miles W.S.W. from London, on the banks of the Thames, extending almost to Hyde-park- corner, and including a part of Knightsbridge, In Win- chester-street, turning out of Cheyne-walk, near the church, stood formerly the Episcopal Palace of the see of Winchester, which was purchased by act of parliament in 1664, on the alienation of the demesne belonging to that see in Southwark and Bishop's Waltham ; but, in 1821, another act was passed to enable the bishop to sell this palace, and to purchase another. Here, at the other extremity of Cheyne-walk, is the Botanic Garden, belonging to the Company of Apothe- caries, to whom, in 1721, it was given by Sir Hans Sloane, on condition of their paying a quit-rent of 5/., and deli- vering annually to the Royal Society, 50 different spe- cimens of plants, the growth of the garden, till the number amounted to 2,000. There is a noble statue of their benefactor, erected by the company, in 1733, executed by Kysbrach. It stands in the centre of the garden, and in front of it, towards the river, stand two fine cedars of Libanus. On the north side of the garden is a spacious green-house, over which is a library of botanical works, and numerous specimens of plants, &c. In the garden are exotics of the most remarkable kind from all parts of the world. In this parish also stands one of the glories of England — Chelsea Hospital, the noble asylum for decayed and wounded soldiers, and one of the best foundations of the kind in the world. This building was begun by Charles II., carried on by James II., and completed by William III. Sir Stephen Fox (ancestor of the celebrated Charles James Fox) was the first projector of the institution, to which he contributed 13,000/. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren, on the site of an old college which had escheated to the crown. Tradition has ascribed the origin of the 188 CHELSEA. hospital to the suggestion of Nell Gwyn, for which, how- ever, there appears no probable foundation. Chelsea Hospital stands at a small distance from the Thames, and though very inferior in point of magnificence to that of Greenwich for seamen, it is a handsome and most commodious structure. It is of brick, with the ex- ception of the quoins, cornices, pediments, and columns, which are of freestone. The principal building occupies three sides of a spacious quadrangle, which is open on the south side, and in the centre of which is a statue of Charles II. in Roman costume. The east and west sides are chiefly occupied by the wards of the pensioners, and at the ex- tremity of the east side is the governor's house. In the centre of the south front is a portico, supported by columns of the Doric order ; and on each side is a piazza, on the frieze of which is an inscription in Latin, dated 1690, to the effect that for the relief and comfort of soldiers worn out by age, or wounded in war, Charles II. built this edifice, James II. added to it, and William and Mary completed it." On one side of the entrance is the chapel, the altar-piece of which, representing the Ascension, was painted by Sebastian Ricci ; and opposite the chapel is the hall in which the pensioners dine, at the upper end of which is a picture of Charles II. on horseback, presented by the Earl of Kanelagh. The entire length of the prin- cipal building, from east to west, is 790 feet, and a wing has been added to each end of the north side, which forms a smaller court, occupied by infirmaries and useful offices. The college gardens comprise about 15 acres, and contain some fine avenues of limes and horse-chestnuts. There is a handsome gravelled terrace on the bank of the Thames, which, as well as the gardens, has within these three years been thrown open to the public on Sunday afternoons, by order of government. The ordinary number of in-pensioners is 476 ; namely, 26 captains, 32 Serjeants, 32 corporals, 16 drummers, 336 CHELSEA. 189 privates, and 34 light-horsemen : they are lodged in six- teen wards, and provided with diet, and an annual uni- form of scarlet faced with blue, in addition to which each person has a small weekly stipend, that of the captains being 3s. 6d. each ; of the Serjeants and light-horsemen, 2*\ each ; of the corporals and drummers, lOd. each ; and of the privates, Sd, each. The various ofiicersand servants of the hospital make the whole number of its inhabitants amount to nearly 600, The number of out-pensioners is unlimited ; their allowance is from 71. 1^5. ^d. to 54/. 15^. per annum : there are now upwards of 80,000, who are dispersed all over the three kingdoms, exercising their various occupations, but liable to perform garrison- duty, as invalid companies, in time of v/ar. The annual expense of the house-establishment, including the salaries of the officers, and all incidental charges, exceeds 40,000/. This, with the allowances to the out-pensioners, is defrayed by a sum annually voted by parliament. Between the years 1801 and 1805, a handsome building- was erected in the King's-road, not far distant from the E.oyal Hospital, called the Royal Military Asylum, or, more commonly, the Duke of York's School." It is for the support and education of the children of soldiers of the regular army. The number of boys admitted is 700, and that of girls 300. The boys are dressed like Lilliputian soldiers, and trained to military and athletic exercises, with strict discipline, and no small parade. Some of them are taught music, so that a band to their pigmy regiment is always at hand. This band performs in public, in the grounds of the asylum, every Friday afternoon, during the spring, summer, and autumn, from 3 to 5 o'clock, and the performances of the young musicians are generally witnessed by a crowd of well-dressed persons, who find the sight interesting and the lounge agreeable. How far this playing at soldiers from early infancy may benefit the inmates of this asylum in their more mature years, or tend to the amelioration of the army of England, is matter of 190 CHELSEA, speculation, which the future must resolve ; meantime, the marching and countermarching, public pole -climbing, and musical performances of these juveniles may harm- lessly continue to delight the lovers of " sweet sights," and little dears,^' without anything more than suspicion that there is something farcical in such a system. As regards general acquirements, both boys and girls are educated on the parrot system of Dr. Bell, which is, we believe, the cheapest mode of instructing numbers in the elements of knowledge ; and therefore, as we suppose, preferred here, with the boys in particular, whose time is so much occupied with martial pursuits. The girls have the advantage of being instructed in needlework. If the boys were constrained to become soldiers, the plan of this establishment were less questionable than it is ; but they have their option of either entering the army as privates, or being placed out in trade or service. Whatever the policy of the system, however, this benevolent institution protects, clothes and feeds, 1,000 children : besides a number of infants, at an auxiliary establishment in the Isle of Wight. Each regiment in the service contributes a day's pay annually towards its support, the amount of which is increased by annual grants by parliament. Towards Pimlico, near the old Chelsea Bun-house, is another laudable institution, of comparatively recent esta- blishment, called the York Hospital, and designed for the prompt reception of sick or wounded soldiers arriving from foreign climes, who here find an asylum, with all neces- sary attendance, pending the examination of their claims at Chelsea or the Horse Guards. In a place called the Stable Yard, adjoining to Chelsea Hospital, stood a house belonging to the crown, which was some time the residence of Sir Robert Walpole, who enlarged the estate by a purchase from the Gough family, and erected an octagon summer-house, and a large green- house. The latter was plenteously stored with choice exotics, collected under the direction of Lady Walpole, CHELSEA. 191 wlio had also a curious grotto here, and was once honoured with a visit from Queen Caroline : on this occasion the green-house, in which her majest}^ dined, was decorated with some of the fine paintings, which were afterwards removed to Houghton. The entire premises were re-pur- chased hv government in 1808, and a spacious Infirmary was afterwards huilt here, as an adjunct to the Royal Hospital, from the judicious designs of J. Soane, Esq. K.A. The chief portion of the remaining grounds was sub- sequently granted on lease, for 99 years, to General Gordon, commissary in chief, who built an elegant new mansion near the former site ; and he had the honour of entertaining here, the Emperor Alexander of Russia, his sister the Duchess of Oldenburgh, and the Duke of York, when those illustrious personages visited Chelsea Hospital, in the year 1814. The " revel routs" of the famous Eleanor Gwyn are said to have been occasionally held in the house inhabited by Walpole. At Chelsea, also, resided the infamous, yet witty and accomplished Duchess of Mazarine, another mistress of Charles II., whose house was the constant resort of all the dissipated and irreligious libertines of the court. Her dramatic and musical entertainments were the precursors of the establishment of the Italian Opera ; the design of introducing which into England was first dis- cussed in those assemblies. The great Sir Thomas More resided in this parish, and his mansion-house became afterwards the residence of many illustrious characters. It stood at the north end of Beaufort-row, and was pulled down in the year 1740, by Sir Hans Sloane. It is said that Sir Thomas was buried in the church ; but this is a disputed fact : his head is deposited in a vault beneath the church of St. Dunstan, at Canterbury. He had long intended to be buried in Chelsea church, and he there erected his own monument, in the year 1532. On it is a long Latin inscription for himself 192 CHELSEA. and his two wives. In the church yard is the monument of the great naturalist and virtuoso, Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., whose collections became the foundation of the British Museum. In the south-west corner of the church is affixed a mural monument to the memory of Dr. Edward Chamberlayne, with a punning Latin epitaph, which, for its quaintness, may detain the reader's attention : it men- tions that some of his books [MSS], inclosed in wax, were buried with him yet when his tomb fell into decay, a few years ago, not the least vestige of them could be found. In the church is a still more curious Latin epitaph on his daughter ; from which we learn, that, on the 30th of June, 1 690, she fought valiantly in men's clothing six hours against the French, on board a fire-ship, under the command of her brother. Many other curious monuments are also in this edifice. Tw^onew district churches have been built in this parish within these few years. The one, called St. Luke's, is situate near Belgrave- square, on ihe spot formerly well known as the Five Fields, and is a structure of consi- derable elegance ; the other is in Little Chelsea, between St. Luke's and the old church, which is close against Battersea -bridge. It is the old church of which we have before spoken as containing many remarkable monuments ; it is fast falling to decay, and is already used as a chapel of ease instead of the parish church, as it used to be. The Chelsea Water-Works were constructed in 1724, in which year the proprietors were incorporated. A canal was then dug from the Thames, near Ranelagh, to Pim- lico, where there was a steam-engine to raise the water into pipes, which conveyed it to Chelsea, the reservoirs in Hyde Park and the Green Park, to Westminster, and ♦ various parts of the west end of the town. The company subsequently completed new and more extensive works, with a steam-engine, &c. on their own freehold land, nearly adjoining to the site of Ranelagh Gardens, Fresh pipes ClIEPSTED HOUSE. 198 have also been laid down to convey the water to Knights- bridge, Sloane-street, Westminster, and various other places. In Cheyne-walk is a famous coffee-house, first opened in 1695, by one Salter, a barber, who drew the attention of the public by the eccentricity of his conduct, and by furnishing his house with a large collection of natural and other curiosities, which remained in the coffee-room till August, 1799, when they were sold by public auction : previous to that period, printed catalogues were sold, with the names of the principal benefactors to the collection. Sir Hans Sloane contributed largely out of the super- fluities of his own museum. Admiral Mundeu, and other officers, who had been much on the coasts uf Spain, enriched it with many curiosities, and gave the owner the name of Don Saltero, by which he is mentioned more than once in the " Tatler," particularly in No. 34 of that enter- taining work. In the hamlet of Little Chelsea, the Earl of Shaftesbury, author of the Characteristics," had a house, in which he generally resided during the sitting of parliament. It was purchased, in 1787, by the parish of St. George, Hanover- square, as an additional work-house ; that parish extend- ing over part of Chelsea. Here, at Lochee's Military Academy (which has since been discontinued), Lunardi and Dr. Sheldon ascended in a balloon, in 1784. In Mr. Shailer's garden here, the white moss-rose was first disco- vered, and successfully cultivated. At Chelsea, are Par/c House, with tastefully disposed pleasure-grounds, containing some fine trees, and the Stadium, late the villa of Lady Cremorne (see Stadium). Near Sloane-square is the Pantechnicon^ a sort of bazaar, on a very extensive scale, for the exhibition of carriages and other property intended for sale. See Pimlico. CHEPING, or CHIPPING ONGAR. See Ongar, CHEPSTED HOUSE, near Sevenoaks, Kent, the seat, for many generations, of the Polhill family, is an ancient s 194 r.HERTSEY. edifice, with extensive pleasure-grounds, laid out with much taste. CHERTSEY, a market-town in Surrey, on the Thames, 19 miles W.S.W. from London, has a market on Wednes- days, well supplied, and four fairs in the year, for cows, horses, and cattle. This is a place of considerable anti- quity, called by Bede Ceroti Insula, and supposed to have been in his time entirely surrounded by water. An abbey for Benedictine monks w^as founded here in 666, and having been destroyed by the Danes, was rebuilt by King Edgar. The abbot, though he did not sit in parliament, was, says Salmon, a kind of little prince hereabouts, whose lands and parcels of lands, were as endless to enu- merate, as it would be the possessors who have held them since the Dissolution." In the church belonging to this foundation, the body of the unfortunate Henry VI. was interred, without any funeral pomp, and here remained till removed by Henry VII. to Windsor, and buried iua manner better suited to his rank. At the suppression, in 1538, the annual revenues of Chertsey Abbey were esti- mated at 659/. Of this once extensive edifice, nothing is now left but some small fragments of walls. On its site a handsome structure, called the Abbey House, was erected by Sir Nicholas Carew, master of the buck-hounds to Charles II., which, says the Magna Britannia, " was built out of the ruins of the great Abbey, of which nothing then re- mained standing but some of the outer walls." The Abbey-house was taken down about 20 years ago ; but a barn, which formed part of the offices, and is evidently composed of the stones of the ancient monastery, is still standing. The church, dedicated to St. Ann, is handsome and spacious. The old structure, having become much de- cayed, was taken down about the year 1804, and sub- stantially rebuilt, with the exception of the chancel, in the Gotjhie style. The tower, which is square, contains CHERTSEY. 195 six bells; and the east window is adorned with some painted glass. The curfew bell is still tolled here in the following manner, from Michaelmas to Lady-day, at eight o'clock in the e^rening. The clerk first 7-ings vp, or raises the bell ; he then rings a few minutes, lowers the bell down, and, after a short pause, he tolls the number of the day of the month ; but on every Sunday this is rung at eight in the morning on the biggest bell. Across the Thames from Chertsey is a noble bridge of seven arches built of Portland stone, in 1785, at the expense of the counties of Surrey and Middlesex, from a design of J. Payne, Esq. In the street leading to the south is Porch House, whither Cowley the poet retired, and where he died in 1666. It was, until recently, the seat of the late Richard Clarke, Esq., the City Chamberlain, who kept it in most careful preservation, making many improvements in both the house and the grounds. Over the front is the fol- lowing inscription, set up by the late respected proprietor : — " The porch of this house, which projected 10 feet into the highway, was taken down in the year 1786, for the safety and accommodation of the public. Here the last accents flowed from Cowley's tongue." At Anningsley, in this parish, resided the eccentric Thomas Day, author of Sand ford and Merton," &c. Here he attempted to rear a child of nature, according to the wild doctrines of Rousseau, but failed. About a mile westward of Chertsey is St. Ann's Hill, on which is a delightful walk, terminating in two venerable elms. *' The prospect here is wonderfully extensive, except towards the south and west, Vv^here the blulF point of Cooper' s-hill excludes the view of Windsor, and the bare ridges of Bagshot-heath circumscribe the horizon. On the east the Surrey Downs appear well ranged behind the nearer heathy ridge of St. George's-hills ; and with the eminences of Norwood, Sydenham, and the more dis- 196 CIIESHUNT. tant summit of Shooter's -hill, in Kent, together with those of Highgate, Hampstead, Bushey, and Harrow, in Middlesex, form the outline of that immense plain, in which the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, and the lofty pile of Westminster Ahbey, enveloped in perpetual smoke, mark the proud position of the metropolis of England, surrounded by a numerous tribe of villages, and a most abundant population. The Thames here shows itself to great advantage, making a bold sweep to approach Chertsey-bridge, and intersecting the plain with its various meanders/' On the south of St. Ann's-hill is the seat formerly belonging to the late Right Hon. Charles James Fox, where that statesman spent many of the latter years of his life. The gardens and pleasure-grounds are laid out with extraordinary taste. Close at hand, on the declivity of the hill, is Monk's Grove (formerly celebrated for a medi- cinal spring), a neat brick edifice, the seat of Sir Charles Payne. The garden is cut out of the hill, and studiously inclosed. In it is a ruin of brick and stone, the remains of a chapel or cell, erected here by the monks of Chertsey. On a neighbouring hill is Lyne Grove^ J. Kerslake, Esq., delightfully situate ; and about a mile farther is Botley's, D. Hall, Esq. (which see). CHESHUNT, a village in Herts (once a market-town), 13 miles N.'N.E. from London, situate by the river Lea and the New River, near the military road called Ermin- street. It is supposed to have been a Roman station. The manor was once possessed by John of Gaunt, ** time- honoured Lancaster," and subsequently by Henry Fitz- roy, Duke of Richmond. This place is said to have been the temporary residence of Cardinal Wolsey, who held the manor of St. Andrew-de-la-Mote. Here, also, in 1712, Richard Cromwell, the ex-protector, ended his days in peace, under the assumed name of Clark, aged 80, One of his descendants built the elegant residence called Cheshunt Parhy now the seat of — Meux, Esq. In the CHIGWELL. 197 vicinity are several other very genteel seats, and the com- mon boasts of some neat residences. Here is a college for students for the ministry in the Methodist persuasion, and anciently here was a nunnery, a small part of which still remains. See Theobalds. CH EVENING, a village in Kent, 21 miles south from London, on the road to Sevenoaks. Here, at Sundridge Cross, is Chevening House, the seat of Earl Stanhope, a handsome modern edifice, with extensive pleasure-grounds, greatly improved by the late earl. CHIGWELL, a village in Essex, 10 miles east from London, has two free-schools founded in 1629, by Samuel Harsnet, Archbishop of York, " that the children and youth of that and adjoining parishes should be, in one of the said schools, taught to read, write, cypher, and cast accounts, and to learn their accidence, and in the other school-house, be instructed in the Latin and Greek tongues : also, that handsome and convenient houses should be pro- vided for the masters, with suitable gardens to each." Upwards of fifty boys are now (1835) taught gratuitously in these schools, in one of which the celebrated William Penn was educated. Respecting the qualifications and duties of the master of each school, the good archbishop directed as follows : — " Item, I constitute and appoint, that the Latin schoolmaster be a graduate of one of the Universities, not under seven-and-twenty years of age, a man skilful in the Greek and Latin tongues, a good poet, of a sound religion, neither Papist nor Puritan, of a grave behaviour, of a sober and honest conversation, no tipler nor haunter of alehouses, no puffer of tobacco ; and above all, that he be apt to teach, and strict in his govern- ment. *' Item. — I ordain that the second schoolmaster, touching his years and conversation, be in all points endowed and qualified as the Latin schoolmaster is ; that he write fair secretary and reman hands j that he be skilful in ciphering s 3 198 cniGWELL. and casting of accounts, and teach his scholars the sam« faculty. Item. — T ordain that the Latin schoolmaster, every Sunday afternoon, do call the scholars of both schools be- fore him, and do catechise them in the principles of our Christian religion, according to the order of the book of common prayer. Item. — I constitute and ordain that the schoolmasters do not exceed in their corrections above the number of three stripes with the rod at any one time ; that they strike not any scholar upon the head or the cheek with their fist, or the palms of their hands, or with any other thing, upon pain of loss of forty shillings for every such stripe or stroke, to be defaulked by the governors out of their yearly wages : that they do not curse or revile their scholars : that for speaking English in the Latin school, the scho- lar be corrected by the ferula, and for swearing, by the rod." The pious founder was once, as be states in the foun- dation-deed, a poor vicar of this parish his remains were buried in the church, and over his grave was a large brass plate, with a full-length figure of the deceased, dressed in his robes, with his mitre and crosier. This mo- nument now stands on a pedestal in the chancel, whither, it has been removed for its better preservation. Around the effigy, is a Latin inscription written by the archbishop himself, of which the following is a translation. " Here lieth Samuel Harsnet, formerly vicar of this church, and afterwards, first, the unworthy Bishop of Chichester, then the more unworthy Bishop of Norwich, and lastly, the very unworthy Archbishop of York, who died the 25th day of May, in the year of our Lord 1631.'^ There are some other small charities at Chigwell j one for educating and clothing ten girls, supported by an an- nual sermon. The church is dedicated to St. Mary ; and is a structure of some antiquity, containing a monument or CHIG — CHIS, 199 two of the 16th century. It has a belfry of chesnut-wood, with five bells. CHIGWELL ROW, a mile distant from Chigwell, forms a beautiful and interesting village, commanding a most extensive and charming prospect, and abounding with genteel residences. CHILDERDITCH, a parish in Essex, contai..ing, in 1831, about 250 inhabitants. The church is a good plain building, the steeple of brick and wood, with a shingled spire. Near the church is Ckilderditch Hall, and about a mile south east from it, Tilliugham Halt, both the property of Lord Petre. CHINGFORD, a parish and village in Essex, was so named from an ancient ford over the river Lea, and the Saxon Cing, King — Chingfordis therefore synonymous with King or King's Ford ; and it is worthy of note that the neighbouring meadows were formerly called King's-meads. The village is 9 miles north from London, on the border of Epping Forest, agreeably situate for retirement, much dis- tinguished for the beauty of its scenery, and containing many excellent houses. The church is small, of flint and stone, and entirely covered with ivy : it contains a few old monuments, but none that are remarkable. There is an estate in this parish called Scotts Mahews, or Brindivoods, h olden of the rector, remarkable on account of the cere- inonial which takes place on every alienation, in which the owner, his wife, and man and maid-servant, attend singly on horseback, and at the parsonage the owner does his homage, and pays his relief, as follows : — he blows three blasts with his horn ; carries a hawk on his fist, and his servant has a greyhound in a slip ; both for the use of the rector that day. He receives a chicken for his hawk, a peck of oats for his horse, and a loaf of bread for his grey- hound. They all dine, after which the master blows three blasts, and they all depart. CHIPPING BARNET. See Barnet, CHISLEHURST, a very pretty village in Kent, llj miles south east from London, is noted as the birth-place 200 CHISLEHURST. of Sir Nicliolas Bacon, Lord Keeper, father of the great Viscount St, Alban's and Sir Francis Walsingham, and almost equally noted as having been the place of residence of the celebrated antiquary, Camden, the author of Bri- tannia." The greater part of the village stands round a green, on one side of which is the church, an ancient and picturesque structure, surrounded with trees. In the inte- rior, are many handsome monuments of the Walsingham, Betenson, and Bertie families, who formerly occupied seats in this vicinity. In the church yard, is a handsome mo- nument to Thomson Bonar, Esq., and Anne, his wife, who were murdered by their servant in 1813. Chislehurst is surrounded by handsome villas; among which, is Frognal, Viscount Sidney, and Skadbury Park, in which formerly stood the mansion of the Walsinghams. In this park, which abounds with most beautiful trees, all respectable applicants are allowed to walk, Camden Place was for- merly the residence of the great topographer, Camden, who died here ; it was next the seat of Earl Camden, who sold it to Mr, Lushington, of whom it was purchased by the unfortunate Mr. Bonar, who resided here with his family for many years, a blessing to the neighbourhood. It was afterwards occupied by Prince Esterhazy, the Aus- trian Ambassador, and is now rented by Mrs. Martin, the widow, we believe, of the banker of that name. Mr. Stone, the banker. Sir Herbert Jenner, Mrs. Heron, Mrs.Taggart, and Mr. Jeremy, respectively occupy handsome seats here. Kemnal Place (late Sir William Leigh ton's) is rented by a Mr. Rice, who occupies a portion of it, and lets the remain- der furnished. Lord Wynford has a spacious but dismal- looking mansion here, called Lessoms ; and on the road to Bromley is Bickley Place, John Wells, Esq., late M.P. for Maidstone. On the estate of this gentleman, at the latter end of harvest, 1835, a fire, supposed (but never dis- covered) to have been the work of an incendiary, took place, which consumed upwards of 30 stacks of corn and hay, with several barns and other buildings, to the value of many thousands of pounds. On the green at Chislehurst, CHISVViCK. 201 the West Kent cricket club is holden every Saturday, from the beginning- of summer to the end of August, with occa- sional grand matches. Of this club Sir Herbert Jenner is president, Viscount Sidney and most of the neighbouring gentry, members. The venerable president, v^^hen his leisure permits, takes the chair at the festivities provided at the Tiger Inn, and participates in the enjoyment of the younger gentlemen, among whom are five of his own soh&. About a mile from this place, towards Paul's Cray-common, is a mineral spring, strongly impregnated with steel. CHISVVICK, a village in Middlesex, 6 miles W.S.W from London, situate on tlie banks of the Thames, near the great western road. The parish consists of two manors ; one belonging to the Dean of St. Paul's, and the other to the dean and chapter. The church, which is close to the river, has been frequently repaired and altered ; part of it is evidently antique — its tower ; which is said to have been built in the 16th century. In the church is a monu- ment to Sir William Chaloner, dated 1707 ; and the vault of the Earl of Burlington, in which repose the remains of the celebrated Kent, a painter and architect, and the father of modern gardening. Here also were buried Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, 1706 ; Sir John Chardin, the oriental traveller, 1712 ; Mary, Countess Faulconberg, daughter of Oliver Cromwell, 1713 ; James Ralph, histo- rical and political writer, 1762 ; Dr. Thomas Morell, 1784 ; Dr. Ralph Griffiths, original editor of the Monthly Review," 1803. In the church yard are many interesting memorials, especially a tomb to the illustrious Hogarth, on which are inscribed the following lines by David Garrick : Farewell ! great painter of mankind. Who reaeh'd the noblest point of art ; Whose pictur'd morals charm the mind. And through the eye correct the heart ! If genius fire thee, reader, stay ; If nature move thee, drop a tear ; If neither touch thee, turn away ; For Hogarth's honoured dust lies, hexel 202- CHISWICK HOUSE. On the three other sides of the tomb (which is in good preservation) are inscriptions to Dame Judith Thornhill, relict of Sir James Thornhill 5 to Hogarth's wife, who died 1789, aged 80, and his sister Ann, who died at the age of 70; and to Mar j Lewis, spinster, who died, aged 88. Near this tomb are three others, which attract attention ; one to Dr. William Rose, (a distinguished writer in the Monthly Review," who died in 1786) on which is in- scribed a touching, though somewhat lengthy epitaph, written by Mr. Murphy ; the second, much dilapidated, to Miles Corbett, Esq. ; and the third, to Alexander Brodie, iron-master, first inventor of register stoves. On the oppo- site side of the church yard, is a handsome stone tomb (inclosed) to Philip J. de Loutherbourg, R. A,, who died in 1812, aged 72, and his wife, who died in 1826. At Chiswick, on the bank of the Thames, are many attractive residences ; but the chief ornament of tlie neigh- bourhood is, CHISWICK HOUSE, the seat of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire, which was built by the great Earl of Bur- lington. Part of a previous building, which occupied the site of the present structure, having been destroyed by fire, the present beautiful villa was raised, under his lord- ship's immediate superintendence, assisted by the genius of the celebrated Kent. The house is after a model of a well-known villa of Palladio, and though so small as to be in reality a mere pleasure-box, is undoubtedly, for elegance of taste, and classic chasteness, equal to anything of the kind in England. A too strict adherence to rules and ^ symmetry has been complained of, and an occasional pre- ponderance of massive ornament ; yet the tout ensemble leaves an impression of the utmost elegance and tasteful- ness. Lord Harvey said of this villa, that " it was too small to inhabit, and too large to hang to one's watch- chain since which, however, two wings have been added, from designs by Wyatt, and many other tasteful improvements made, which render the villa much more convenient and habitable than it formerly was. CIIISWICK HOUSE. 203 The ascent to the house is by a grand double flight of steps, on one side of which, is a statue of Palladio, and on the other, one of Inigo Jones. The portico is supported by six small fluted columns of the Corinthian order, (which appear somewhat crowded, and too near the house) with an elegant pediment, and cornice, friezes, and architecture, richly ornamented. The interior is of course finished with great elegance ; yet the furniture, &:c., though doubtless the best of its kind, is simply tasteful and genteel, without any attempt beyond its adaptation to the character of the apartments. We speak, of course, of such apartments as are shown to visitors, (who, when his grace is absent, may gain a view by application to the housekeeper) which are now much fewer than they used to be. They follow, in the order in which they are shown : — viz. I. The Dome Saloon — a very elegant apartment, termi- nating in a dome, by which it is lighted, and containing the following pictures : — The Rape of Proserpine, by Scho- nians ; Ann of Austria, Fred. Elde ; the Ambassador from Morocco, in the reign of Charles II., figure by Sir Godfrey Kneller, back-ground and horse by Wyke 3 Charles J., his queen and two children, by Vandyk ; Judgment of Paris^ Car. Davide ; Louis XIII., Fred. Elde ; Apollo and Daphne, C. Davide ; Liberality and Modesty, after Guido ; with busts of Antinous, Lucius Antinous, a Bacchanalian, Socrates, Faustina, Britannicus, Plautilla, Antoninus, Apollo, Domitian, Adrian, and one unknown. II. West Saloon, next the Dome, — Venus and Cwpidy Sebastian Ricci ; Acis and Galatea, Giordano ; Philoso- pher and TVife, Mittens; First Countess of Burli7igton^ Vandyk; First Earl of Halifax yD\Xto\ Pope Clement IX., Car. Maratti ; Twelfth 'Night, Jordaens ; Mr. Rogers and Dog^ Vandyk ; Cardinal Baronius, Tintoret ; Belisarius, Murillo; Portraits of a Man and Woman, J length, School of Rubens ; Bacchus and Ariadne^ Seb. Ricci. III. South'west Room* — Inigo Jones, in a round frame, 204 CHISVVICK HOUSE. Kent ; First Earl of Sandimch^ Dobson ; Susannah and the Eldersy Procaccini ; with some smaller pictures. IV. Tf^est Saloon, next the Draynng-room. — Holy Family^ Car. Maratti ; Moimtehanks, Tintoret ; Passage of the Israelites y Bourgognone ; Landscape^ Gasp. Poussin ; Temptation of Sf. Anthony Ann. Caracci \ Samaritan IVomariy Paul Veronese ; Landscape and Buildi?igs, G. Poussin ; Dutch Merry-making, Ostade ; The Presentationy ; Woman selling Fritters, Schalkens ; March with Horsemeny Vandermeulen ; Two Children's Heads, Leo. da Vinci ; Woman feeding Children, Schalkens ; Flight into Egypt^ N. Poussin ; Holy Family, And. Schiadoni ; Landscape and Figures, Berghem ; Inside of a Church, Vandyk ; Holy Family^ Pietro da Cortona ; St. John in the IVilderness, Mola ; TVoman selling Fish and Herbs, Gerard Dow ; Blarch, Bourgognone ; Four Landscapes, by Payne, and several minor pictures. V. Drawing-Koom. — Head of a Magdalene, Guido ; Landscape and Fishermen, Salvator Rosa ; Mr, Killigreiv, his hand on his dog, Vandyk ; Mary, Queen of Scots, Zucchero ; King Charles I., Corn. Jansen ; Holy Family, Parcechino; small Landscape, YW\^x\\ ) Landscape, with figures, water and cattle, Both ; Madonna delta Rosa, Domenichino ; Tent and Cattle^ Wouvermans ; Constant tine''s Arch, Viviani ; Portrait of an Old Man, in a chair, furred robe, J length, Rembrandt ; Landscape, with hawk-^ ingand horsemen, Wouvermans ; tirst Earl of Burlingtony Vandyk ; ChemisVs Shop, David Teniers ; Three Statues, in chiaro-oscuro, N. Poussin ; Mars and Fenus, Albano ; Painting and Design^ Guido. Dining'Room, — Po7ite Rotti, view in Rome, Keerings ; Pope Innocent, D. Velasquez ; Holy Family, And. del Sarto ; Jew Rabbi., \ length, Rembrandt ; Rembrandt in his Painting -room., Gerard Dow ; Piazzo del Popolo, Gabrielli ; A Repose, N. Poussin ; Holy Family, Schia- doni 3 small Landscape and Fig?ires, Polemburg ; Coach and Horses, Sir God. Kneller ; Mado7tna aiidSf, Catherine, CHISWrC|< HOUSE. 205 P. da Cortona ; Sleeping Vemis and Capid^ ; Salmacis and Ilermaphroditus, Albano ; Noah Sacrifichigf C. Maratti ; Earl of Pembroke and Sister, Vandyk ; Inside of a Church, — ; Marriage of Cupid and Psyche^ Schiadoni ; Ferry-boat and Cattle, Bergliem. The Gallery — containing a few pictures and statues. Three good Latidscapes ; a Battle-piece, on ceiling, P. Veronese ; Vno Children's Heads, Guelpbi ; two Statues, by ditto, and two by Scheemaker. Here also are some Italian vases; a young Hercules, in bronze; and three pictures of incense-lamps, by Benvenuto Cellini. East Saloon. — Diana and Endymion, Seb. Ricci ; Solo- mon and Queen of Sheba^ Mar. Ricci ; Landscape, cattle and figures, Mola ; Portrait of a Man^ in furred robes, with beard, I length, Titian ; a Magdaleyie^ Car. Maratti, after Guido ; Lot and his Daughters, Rottenhamer ; A Head, Vandyk ; Landscape, Viviano, the figures in it by Michael Angelo ; Procession of a Dogess of Veyiice^ P. Veronese ; Christ in the Garden, Guerchino ; three fine Headsy Rembrandt; Landscape^ Apollo and Satyrs, . ; a Sea-piecCy Vandevelde ; Marriage at Canaa^ M. Ricci ; Duchess of Somerset , Vandyk ; Flowers, Bap- tiste ; The Bnyy Seb. Ricci. East Saloon, Liner Apartment. — Here is a picture, screened by a veil, which, alone, will well repay the visitor for much trouble in reaching Chiswick — The Interior of the Jesuit's Church at Antwerp, by H. Van Stein wick, which, for masterly execution in every detail, and espe- cia'ly for perspective, cannot be surpassed, if equalled, in this kingdom ; Portrait of a Gentleman, whiskers, beard, and ruff, ^ length, Rubens ; Portrait of a Lady^ ruff, close cap and beads, J length, Rubens ; St, Gregory^ Cavidore ; Saint at Prayers, ; Fieiv in Rome, (over the window) Salvator Rosa ; Crucifixion of St. Peter, Seb. Bourdon ; Boy's Head., Vandyk ; Miraculous Draught of Fishes, Rubens ; Head of a Man^ beard and whiskers, T 206 CHISVVICK HOUSE. — ; Spanish Lady, D. Velasquez ; with some others. Tapestry Room, — This room is so called, because hung with Ghobelin Tapestry ; the wrought figures on which are after Teniers. Here are portraits of the Countess of Burlington and Lady Thanet, by Kent; a few other pic- tures, and some articles of vertu. The Gardens^ which are chiefly in the Italian style, are laid out with great taste ; every vista being terminated by a temple, obelisk, or some similar ornament, so as to pro- duce the most agreeable effect. One long walk, skirted on each side by a lofty holly hedge, terminates with an ornamental niche, in which is a bust of Napoleon Buona- parte, and is, therefore, called Buonaparte's Walk. At the back of the house is a spacious grass-plot, with a wide gravel-walk running down the centre, on each side of which, on the lawn, are some most splendid cedars. At the end, nearest the house, are a wolf and wild boar in stone, by Scheemaker ; and the walk is terminated by three valuable and remarkably fine antique statues, dug up in Adrian's garden at Rome, with stone seats between them. On the verge of the lawn, to the left of the gravel- walk, is a serpentine lake, which leads to an enclosure where there are a Roman temple, an obelisk, and some other ornaments. The gardens are adorned with nume- rous statues ; as those of Samson, a Gladiator, Faunus, Actteon, a large lioness, and a goat, in stone, and a lovely Venus de Medicis, elevated on a pedestal, the loftiness and elegance of which add peculiar lightness and anima- tion to the beautiful statue. The gardener may generally be found in or near the conservatory, which is of course very elegantly constructed, and full of the choicest exotic and other plants. It is built in the Italian style, and is singularly light and grace- ful. The gardens, too, especially in this part, are, we believe, of the Italian school — pretty, perhaps, but some- CLAPHAM. 207 what formal. Besides the cedars of which we have already spoken, there are numerous splendid trees about the grounds — especially some magnolias, of several varieties, and of rare beauty, the snow-apple, and a curious exotic creeper which surrounds the house. Near the green-house, is the Orangery, full of very large plants in full bearing ; many of which, however, when we visited the spot, (Aug. 1836) were evidently out of health. CLAPHAM, an extensive and pleasant village in Surrey, about 3 miles from the bridges, situate chiefly on the skirts of a park-like common, of about 200 acres, carefully drained, and tastefully planted. Around the common are numerous elegant villas, with extensive pleasure-grounds, in the occupation of opulent merchants and others. Among the principal residents, are F. Luttrell, Esq., James Esdaile, Esq., James Brogden, Esq., James Allnutt, Esq., Mr. Aid. Scholey, W. Hodges, Esq., B. Browne, Esq., John Ravenhill, Esq., Mrs. Wilson. The church, which is at the north-east corner of the common, was rebuilt in 177 6 J it is a neat unadorned structure, with a dome and turret at the west end. In the old church, the south aisle of which long remained, on an eminence near the Wands- worth-road, were some splendid monuments for Sir Richard Atkins, Bart., who died in 1689, and his family ; and Bartholomew Gierke, dean of the arches, and lord of the manor, who died in 1589 j also a marble tablet to the me- mory of Dr. Martin Lister, F. R. S., and physician to Queen Anne, who died February 2, 1711. The remaining aisle of the old structure, being much decayed, was pulled down a few vears since, and a small new chapel, dedicated to St. Paul, (into which the old monuments have been removed) erected on its site. Dr. Nicholas Brady, versifier of the Psalms, was rector of this parish in 1716. A free- school was rebuilt in the village in 1701, and there are several chapels ; one for Independents, of great antiquity. The manor belongs to Earl Spencer. The manor-house, supposed to be of the age of Elizabeth, is situated near the site of the old church, and is now a ladies' boarding-school. 208 CLAP — CLAR. CLAPHAM RISE, a gradual ascent from the Swan at Stock well to Clapham Common, with genteel houses on each side of the high road. CLAPTON, Upper and Lower, hamlets of the parish of Hackney, Middlesex, containing numerous very genteel houses, the residences chiefly of opulent tradesmen. CLAYBURY HALL, Essex, near Woodford-bridge, is the seat of John Rutherford Hatch Abdy, Esq. In 1555, this estate belonged to Sir Ralph Warren, and subsequently to the Harvey family, from whom it was conveyed, in marriage, to Montague Burgoyne, Esq., of whom it was purchased, about 1790, by James Hatch, Esq., whose name is borne by the present possessor. The mansion is an elegant modern structure, with a projecting portico in front, and situate on an eminence, commanding delightful prospects of rich meadow lands and forest scenery. It is surrounded by a beautiful park, which abounds with fine timber. CLAREMONT, near Esher, Surrey, about 17 miles from Hyde Park Corner, and 5 from Kingston, late the residence of their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Saxe Cobourg, will long be memorable for the melancholy event of her Royal Highness's death here, in 1817. Claremont had its origin in the reign of Queen Anne, when Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect, bought some land here, and built upon it a low brick house, for his own habitation. He afterwards sold it to Thomas Holies Pel- ham, Earl of Clare, afterwards Duke of Newcastle, who greatly augmented the estate by new purchases of land, and considerably increased the buildings and plantations ; the latter being made, and the grounds laid out, under the direction of the celebrated Kent. On a mount in the park he erected a castellated prospect house, calling it after his own title, Claremont, (which subsequently became the general name of the estate). After the decease of the Duke of Newcastle, the famous Lord Clive bought this estate ; and when setting out on his last voyage to India, CLAREMONT, 209 he gave directions to Brown, the celebrated landscape- gardener and architect, to pull down the old mansion, build a new house in a better situation, and re-model the grounds, without any limitation of expense. This task was executed greatly to his lordship's satisfaction, though at the charge of upwards of 100,000Z. On his death, in November, 1774, the estate was sold (for about one-third of the sum which the improvements had originally cost) to Viscount Galway, who again disposed of it to the Earl of Tyrconnel, who resided here till 1807; and then again sold the premises to Charles Rose Ellis, Esq. This gentleman made it his residence till the year 1816, when it was pur- chased by government, for 69,000/., for the country resi- dence of the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold of Saxe Coburg Saalfeld, to whom the Princess had been married at Carlton House on the 2nd of May, 1816, The house is said to be the only complete mansion that Brown ever built, though he altered many. It forms an oblong square of 44 yards by 34. There are eight spacious rooms on the ground-floor, besides the entrance-hall and great staircase.. On the principal front a flight of thirteen steps leads to the grand entrance, under a pediment sup- ported by Corinthian columns. The situation is well chosen, the fore-front commanding fine views. The home demesne contains about 420 acres; the park and other parts of the estate, about 1600 acres, in several farms. On an eminence in the garden, a small Gothic building, erected for the Princess Charlotte, has, since her decease, been converted into a mausoleum, dedicated to her memory : within it is a fine bust of the princess; and the windows are ornamented with some beautifully painted glass, by Backler. On the acceptance by the Prince of Saxe Coburg of the crown of Belgium, and his consequent resignation of the pension received by him from the English nation, it was a principal stipulation that the house and grounds of Clare- T 3. * 210 COBHAM. mont should be kept in preservation. Claremont has several times been visited by the King of the Belgians since his accession to the throne of Belgium, and has occasionally been the residence of her Roy^l Highness the Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, afterwards the Queen. COBHAM, a neat and populous village in Surrey, 17 miles S.W. from London, situate on Bagshot Heath, by the Kiver Mole, over which are two neat bridges* Some medicinal springs here, called Cobham Wells and Spa, were formerly much resorted to, but they have now lost their repute. On the banks of the Mole here, are several charming villas, especially one, built in the Italian style, by Lord Ligonier j here is also a large manufactory of iron and copper. The river affords some good angling. The manor formerly belonged to the abbey of Chertsey; the present lord is — Weston, Esq. Cobham Church is a neat plain building of chalk-stone, roofed with slate and tile. Cobham Park, formerly called Downe Place, was sold by the coheirs of the nephew of Lord Ligonier to Karl Car- hampton, who, in 1807, bought Pain's Hill, and sold Cob- ham Park to Harvey Combe, Esq,, whose descendant now resides here. Cobham Lodge is the seat of Lady Moles- worth. By an inquisition taken in the 23rd of Henry IIL, it was found that Matilda, Queen of Henry I., made the first bridge over the Mole at this place, for the repose of the soul of one of her maidens, who was drowned in crossing the ford." See FairCs HilL COBHAM, a pleasant and very rural village in Kent, 25 miles E. S, E, from London, and 4 from Gravesend, whence it is a delightful walk across the fields. In the church is a series of monumental brasses, at once ancient and curious, in memory of the Barons de Cobham and their alliances — a family which, from the reign of King John to that of James I., was of the highest eminence in this king- dom. Many of these mementos, which are ranged in rows, on slabs, facing the altar, are surprisingly well preserved t COBIIAM HALL. 211 The church is remarkable for its simplicity. Here were deposited the remains of Edward, fifth Lord Darnley, whose untimely death in 1 835, from the inadvertent use of a scoring-axe, created so much sensation. John, the fourth earl, and Elizabeth his countess, both of whom died in the same year (1831), also repose here. This illustrious family succeeded that of Cobham, at Cobham Hall : (see next article). Near the church is an excellent institution, called Cobham College, which will well repay the trouble of a visit. It was first founded by John de Cobham, in 1362, and re-erected, according" to an inscription over one of the ancient archways, by Sir Wm. Brooke, K. G., Baron Cobham, in 1596. It affords an asylum to a considerable number of aged widows and widowers, from several parishes ; each inmate having apartments, a weekly allow- ance of 4i'., and a garden. From the back of the col- lege, on the west, is a most charming view towards Meopham. COBHAM HALL, lying eastward of the village just described, was anciently the baronial estate of the illus- trious family of Cobham, but, in the reign of Queen Anne, became the property of the Earl of Darnley, partly by mar- riage, and partly by purchase. It was recently the happy seat of Edward, fifth Earl of Darnley, who, in Feb. 1835, died here of tetanus, or lock-jaw, brought on by a wound on the foot, accidentally inflicted by himself, by his unskilful use of a scoring-axe, which his lordship incautiously handled for a few minutes' amusement. Cobham Hall is a spacious edifice of red brick, built in the form of a half H, with octagonal towers on the wings. The central front, designed by Inigo Jones, but since much altered, presents a handsome appearance from several points in the park. The interior is fitted up with consider- able elegance, and contains some valuable paintings. The vestibule, music-room, and gallery, are particularly inter- esting : in them are various chimney-pieces, of beautiful marble, finely sculptured with figures, basso-relievos, and 212 COBHAM HALL. Other subjects. Among the pictures are portraits by Van- dyk, in his finest manner, of Lord John and Lord Bernard Stuart, sons of Esme, and brothers of James, Duke of Richmond and Lenox, (who held this estate in the time of Charles I. the Death of Cyrus, by Rubens ; and a most spirited sketch of Lion-hunting*, by the same artist; the Call of Samuel, by Sir J. Reynolds; a Nativity ; Judas betraying Christ; and a large and magnificent piece of Fishermen in a Storm, by Salvator Rosa. The library contains a well-chosen selection of the best authors. The park, which is nearly seven miles in circumference, is beautifully diversified and abundantly wooded. The oaks are particularly luxuriant, and some of them are very large and ancient. On the south side, leading from the house, is a noble avenue of lime-trees, in four row^s, extending more than 1,000 yards. On an elevated spot, near the south-eastern extremity of the park, is a mausoleum, erected, under the will of the fourth earl, as a place of sepulture for the family, at an expense of 9,000Z. Adjoin- ing it is a chapel, very elegantly fitted up, with painted glass, &c. The public have a right of way through Cobham Park, which, either from or to the village of Cobham, is a most beautiful walk. The Hall was formerly shown freely to all respectable applicants ; but since the late earl's lamented death, the trustees of the estate during the minority of the present earl, (a child of about 7 years of age), have caused cards to be printed, announcing their determination to admit visitors to the Hall on Fridays only ; not to admit any one, even on that day, without a ticket ; and not to allow any such ticket to be given, without payment of 2s. each person! Persons desirous of viewing Cobham Hall on these terms, are to apply for their tickets to Messrs. Caddell, of Rochester and Gravesend, or at Penny's Library, Milton. The trustees " wish it to be understood," as their card states, that the amount thus received, " will given in aid of some charity." We presume that their COL COO. 213 object is to render the company select, and we doubt not it will be at once select and thin. COLESHILL, a hamlet to the parish of Amersham, Herts, 4 miles W, from Rickmansworth, and 21 from Lon- don, is a rural village, noted as the birth-place of the poet Waller. COLN, a river which, rising in Herts, divides Middle- sex from Bucks, and falls into the Thames at Staines. COLNBROOK, a hamlet in Bucks, on the Bath-road, 17 miles W. from London, standing partly in Middlesex, and partly in Bucks, on four channels of the river Coin. It consists chiefly of a single street, in which is the chapel of ease, with a market-house under it, the place having formerly had a corn- market on Tuesdays, now discon- tinued. COMMERCIAL DOCKS.—See Jiotherhhhe, COMMERCIAL ROAD— a metropolitan road of very extensive traffic, running from Whitechapel Church to Limehouse, and communicating with the East and West India Docks, with a branch I'rom the former docks into Essex. The Commercial-road, which is private property, held in shares by a number of proprietors, was commenced in 1800, when the West India Docks were first formed ; the subsequent building of the East India Docks, in 1802, added greatly to the commercial importance of the road, which is now lined on each side with houses. COOMB BANK, at Sundridge Cross, between Seven- oaks and Westerham, in Kent, is the elegant seat of W, Manning, Esq. The pleasure-grounds, watered by the Darent, are disposed with great taste. COOMBE HOUSE, near Kingston, Surrey, with ex- tensive park and wood, the property of the late, and now, we believe, of the present, Earl of Liverpool. The house is in a dull spot, the grounds extensive and beautiful. Not far from the house are the reservoirs constructed by Car- dinal Wolsey, to supply Hampton Court with water. 214 COPT, OR COPPED HALL. COOMBE HOUSE, Addington Hill, near Croydon, is the pleasant seat of G. Enderby, Esq, COOPERSALE HALL, an elegant mansion in Essex, northward of the church of Theydon Gernon, now the seat of AVilliam Barclay, Esq. It is a stately edifice, on an elevated site, surrounded by pleasure-grounds, and has lately been much modernized. It contains some ancient painted ceilings of superior workmanship, carefully pre- served. COPT, or COPPED HALL, near Epping, in Essex, now the seat of J. H. Conyers, Esq., is an estate of remote antiquity. The present mansion, however, was built, we believe, by Edward Conyers, Esq., the ancestor of the present possessor ; it is a handsome building, composed of white bricks, in form nearly a square, and much admired for its style of workmanship. It has a park attached, sur- rounded by a demesne embracing an extent of about 4,000 acres. The park is finely broken into hills, the tops and sides of which are clothed with ornamental plantations of luxuriant trees : indeed, nature has been particularly liberal of her beauties in the decoration of this spot, and from many situations in the park, some extensive and very fine prospects are obtained. This estate, about fifty years ago, had four hundred acres of unprofitable waste belonging to it, covered with horn- beam, pollards, and brush-wood, and infested with gipsies, deer-stealers, and poachers, whose vagrant race had haunted the borders of the forest from time immemorial. The re- formation of most of these outcasts was efifected by the laudable plan of the then proprietor of this mansion, who, after suffering greatly from their dissolute habits, prevailed on them to reside in small cottages, which he built on pur» pose, at a distance from each other, each dwelling having appropriated to it a proper quantity of garden ground • he also employed them, and agreed to find them with fire wood. The ancient mansion stood a little more southerly than COT CRAN. 215 die present building. This estate was given by King Richard the First to Richard Fitz Archer, who built a house, formed a park, and resided here ; his son, Sir Richard, succeeded, followed in 1295 by the latter's son. Sir Henry, who had license to add fifteen acres to the park. He held the manor of the Abbot of Waltham by homage, and in 1304, was succeeded by his son. Sir Archer Fitz Archer, a knight banneret. In 1350, in the reign of Edward III., the manor was exchanged for others wdth the Abbot of Waltham, who, in 1374, obtained leave to add largely to the park. Waltham Abbey retained this estate till the reign of Henry VIII., as a place/' says Fuller, *' of leisure and privacy for the abbots." It was then sold to the king, or exchanged for other possessions. By Queen Mary, who, when Princess Mary, during the reign of Edward VI., resided here for some time, it was annexed to the Duchy of Lancaster, and by Queen Elizabeth it was granted to Sir Thomas Heneage, whose descendants sold it to the Earl of Middlesex, lord treasurer, 1622, whose family, connected by marriage with the Earls of Dorset, enjoyed it for nearly a century, until, in 1700, it was sold by the Earl of Dorset to Thomas Webster, Esq., afterwards a baronet, from whom it was bought by Edward Conyers, Esq., grandfather, we believe, of the present possessor. COTMANDENE, near Dorking, a tract proverbial for its salubrious air, devoted to a few neat residences, several small cottages, and a row of almshouses. The title sig- nifies " the heath of cottages ;" it is thought to have been anciently a camp or fortification. CRANBOURN LODGE, through Windsor Great Park, Berks, an elegant villa, with beautiful landscape prospects, now the property of the crown, but formerly the seat of his Royal Highness the Duke of Gloucester, brother to his Majesty, George III. CRANFORD PARK, Middlesex, near Hounslow Heath, the seattof the Countess of Berkeley, In the house. 216 (IIAN — CRAV. which is a small modern structure, are some good famil}'- and other portraits. The park is not particularly attractive, either from its situation, or for views ; but its woods are judiciously disposed, and it is well watered bj the river Coin. It is said to abound with game. CRANFORD, a village in Middlesex, 1 mile from Uxbridge, and 12 from London, usually called Cranfovd Bridge^ from its bridge over the river Colne. In the church are several monuments of the Berkeley family, in whose patronage is the rectory. Here are also mementos to Dr. Fuller, the author of ** Worthies of England," and to Sir Cbas. Scarsburgh, M. D. CRANIIAM, a village near Upminster, in Essex, 16 miles east from London. It is a parish, containing about 300 inhabitants, and has a plain church, of some an- tiquity, dedicated to St. Mary. This parish was formerly united with the two Okendons, and is styled in old records Wokendon Episcopi, on account of its having anciently be- longed to the Bishop of London, and Cravenham, supposed from some former possessor of the manor ; whence Cran- ham. The mansion of Cranham Hall, is an ancient build- ing near the church. The manor, after having belonged to various families, was purchased by Sir William Petre, who died in 1571 ; his descendant sold it to Nathan Wright, Esq., from whose family it was conveyed in mar- riage with Elizabeth, daughter* of Sir Nathan Wright, to General Oglethorpe, who, after having witnessed the esta- blishment of the independence of America, and especially of the colony of Georgia, which he himself settled in 1732, died here in 1785, at the advanced age of 103. His widow survived him ; on her death, this estate became the pro- perty of Sir Thomas Hussey Apreece, Bart. Cranham Hall is now the seat of — Jenkins, Esq. CRAVEN COTTAGE, Hammersmith, a small, highly- embeUished villa, built by the late Margravine of Anspach, when Lady Craven, and inhabited by her ladyship till her death. It was afterwards the residence of Walsh Porter, CRAYFORI>. 2ir Esq., who, in addition to many other improvements, en- riched the windows of the chapel with some fine stained glass, from convents in France and Italy. The next pro- prietor, Richard Wilson, Esq., was also liberal in his im- provements. CRAYFOKD, a market-town in Kent, 13 miles from London, on the road to Dover, is so named from its ancient ford over the Cray. This place is celebrated as the spot where a g'reat battle was fought between the ancient Britons and the Saxons j and in the surrounding woods are immense pits, sunk in the chalk ; supposed by some to have been made for granaries, by others, to have been formed by the Saxons as places of security, during their wars with the Britons. Nearly the whole of this parish was formerly the property of Admiral Sir Cloudesiey Shovel, to whose memory there is a fine monument in the church. The altar-piece of this church, too, is notice- able; and, in the church-yard is the following curious epitaph : — " Here lies the body of Peter Isnell, thirty years clerk of this parish. He lived respected as a pious and mirthful man, and died on his way to church, to assist at a wedding, on the 31st of March, 1811, aged 70. The inhabitants of Crayford have raised this stone to his cheerful memory, and as a token of his long and faithful services." Then follows some pogfri/ ; — ■ The life of this Clerk was just three-scorerand-ten, Nearly half of which time he chaunted Amen, In his youth he was married, like other young men; But his wife died one day, so he chaunted Amen. A second he married ; — she departed ; — what then ? He married and buried a third, with Amen, Thus his joys and his sorrows were treble ; but then. His voice was deep bass as he sung out Amen, On the horn he could blow as well as most men ; So his horn was exalted in sounding Amen* u 218 i no — (HOY. But he lof^t all his wind after three-score-and-ten -."^ And here, with three wives, he waits till again j The trumpet shall rouse him to sing out Amen /" The present clerk of the parish remembers Peter Isnell well, and though himself a staid and venerable personage, he seems to rejoice at the recollection of the deep bass voice, and other enviable peculiarities of his predecessor. There are, at Cray ford, two fine factories for printing silks and cottons. CROUCH END, • hamlet of the parish of Hornsey, in which is a small wooden chapel of some antiquity. Here is the costly seat of J. G. Booth, Esq., and, in the field cross- ing hence to Hornsey-road, on the summit of a hill, the handsome residence of George Buckton, Esq. CROYDON, a market- town in Surrey, on the edge of Banstead Downs, 9| miles south from London, consists of two parts, namely, the old and new towns ; each of which is about one mile in length. The old town is situated in a low plain, or bottom, where numerous springs arise, form- ing the source of the river Wandle : in it is the ancient archiepiscopal palace of the province of Canterbury, the church, and vicarage. The new town, called the High Street, was originally nothing more than a bridle- way over the fields ; but in consequence of its leading over higher ground, and being in a more direct course than the old road, it was at length built on, and became the principal road to Brighton, and other southern parts. The court- house, butter-market, Whitgift's Flospital, and numerous inns, are situated in this part. This manor has belonged to the see of Canterbury ever since the Conquest. The palace was neglected, and fell into decay, which, in 1780, led to the passing of an act of Parliament, by which trustees were empowered to sell the premises, and erect, or buy, a new summer-residence in the vicinity. — See AddingUm. The old palace was accordingly CROYDON. 219 sold. It is now chiefly occupied ;is a calico-printing ma- nufactory and bleach ing'-ground. The hall is very spacious, tlie roof resting on dwarf columns attached to the walls, which end in small corbels of angels, holding shields of arms. At the east end is a sculpture of the royal arms of England, impaled with those of the Confessor, neatly exe- cuted. It is to be regretted that this apartment is not occupied in a better manner than at present, being simply a receptacle for rubbish. The chapel, now used as a school of industry (established in 1809), is curious, having stalls round it, and a panelled roof. The pulpit, situate at the west end of the apartment, is richly covered w4th scroll- work. The rest of the buildings are occupied as private residences, or manufactories. The principal part of the palace belongs to Messrs. Stavey, calico-bleachers. In this palace, Archbishop Parker entertained Queen Elizabeth and her whole court, and Archbishop Whitgift here received more than one visit from the same princess. When the possessions of the see of Canterbury were seized by the parliament during the civil war with Charles I., Croydon Palace was first leased to the Earl of Nottingham, " a notable man at a thanksgiving dinner, having terrible long teeth, and a prodigious stomach to turn the arch- bishop's chapel into a kitchen." After the Restoration, this edifice was again bestowed on the archbishopric. The church of Croydon, dedicated to St. John the Bap- tist, is of flint and stone ; it is situate near the bottom of the town, near the source of the river Wandle. It consists of a nave, two aisles, and three chancels, and at the west end is a handsome square tower with pinnacles. Under the tower, on the west door, are the arms of Archbishop Chichele. The church has, within these few years, been much altered and repaired, and is now a handsome and spacious structure. The font is of ancient date, and in the middle chancel are some antique wooden stalls. In the south aisle of the chancel is a handsome monu- ment of black marble, supported by Corinthian pillars; to 220 CROYDON. the memory of Archbishop Grindall, who is represented lying at full length, dressed in his parliamentary robes. He died July 6, 1583, aged 63. In the same part of the church is Archbishop Whitgift's monument, supported by Corinthian columns of black marble. In the same chancel, against the south wall, is a splendid monument to the memory of Archbishop Sheldon ; the figure of the archbishop, which is of white marble, is a very fine piece of sculpture ) and was the performance of Joseph Latham, It has been supposed, that the head was finished by an Italian artist. Against the same wall is an ancient tomb, under the arch of which are the vestiges of brass plates, with figures of a man and woman, having labels issuing from their mouths ; these, as well as the inscriptions, were probably torn away during the civil wars. In this chancel are also the tombs of the Archbishops Wake, Potter, and Herring, with inscrip- tions upon flat stones. The east end of the north aisle is called Heron's chancel ; in it is a large tomb of free-stone, to the memory of Nich. Heron, Esq., who died in 1568. On it are represented, in alto-relievo, the figures of him- self, his wife, five sons, and eight daughters. Here is also an altar-tomb to the memory of Ellis Davy, founder of a hospital in this town, which bears his name. He died in 1455. At the east end of the nave is a monument, with a column of white marble, designed by Glover, the author of Leonidas, to the memory of Philippa, wife of James Bour- dieu, Esq., who died in 1780. There are several brasses and slabs in the church, to private individuals, which we have not space to notice. In the church-yard is the tomb of Constantino Phipps, the first Lord Mulgrave, who died in 1775. Here, too, Alexander Barclay, author of the sati- rical poem entitled " The Ship of Fools," was buried 1552. There were anciently two chantries in this church. Two district-churches have lately been built in the parish, one on Croydon-common, the other on Beaulieu-hill — the CROYDON. 221 fm-mer, where the students of Addiscombe attend divine service, is a miserable-looking building ; the latter much better situate, neat and respectable. In the parish are numerous Dissenters' chapels, and a meeting-house for Quakers ; there are also some good almshouses. Davys Almshouses were founded temp. Henry VI., by Eilis Davy, of the Mercers' Company ; but the statutes were revised and altered in the 16th century. They have been lately rebuilt. Whitgift's Hospital was founded by the archbishop at the close of the 16th century, and endowed with lands for a w^arden, schoolmaster, and 28 poor brethren and sis- ters; or 40, if the revenues would permit. The nomina- tion is vested in the see of Canterbury, or, when vacant, in the rector of Lambeth and vicar of Croydon. Inmates must be at least 60, and inhabitants of Croydon and Lam- beth to be preferred. In the treasury of the hospital, are the letters-patent for building it, embellished with a draw- ing of Queen Elizabeth, on vellum ; and the archbishop's deed of foundation, with a drawing of himself, highly finished. The revenues, originally 185/. 4s. per annum^ have now greatly increased. In the chapel, is a portrait of the founder, painted on glass, with a Latin inscription ; also a portrait of a lady, with a ruft, aged 38, and bearing- date 1616, thought to be one of the archbishop's daughters. This hospital was repaired in 1817. Tenisons School-house was founded by Archbishop Tenison in 1714, for ten boys and ten girls; re-erected in 1791. The TJttle Almshouses, erected by voluntary subscription, aided by a sum given by the late Earl of Bristol, receive 12 poor inhabitants. There are other chanties besides these. Here is a handsome and commodious town-hall with Doric and Ionic columns, and a neat cupola; it was re- paired in 1829. To the west of the town, are extensive cavalry barracks, erected during the late war, and after- wards made the head-quarters of the royal waggon-train. On the road to Addington, and ail round Croydon, ere many large chalk-pits, to which Dr. Ducarel ascribes the u 3 222 DAGENHAM. etymology of tlie town ; cray, in old Norman, is chalk, and it is observable that the place has always been vulgarly called Craydon. This town has a good market on Satur- Is now himself turning that way : j If not to clay, to dust will come, ^ Which to preserve takes little room, v Although inclosed in this great tomb. 3 I served the New River Company as surveyor, from Lady-day, 1691, to Midsummer, 1725." In the suburbs of the town are a number of boarding- schools, and several very elegant villas — Treiit Placp.^ built by the late Dr. J ebb, in the Italian style ; South Lodge, formerly a favourite retirement of the great Earl of Chatham ; East Lodge, said to have been a hunting- seat of Charles I. ; an elegant villa on Four -tree-hill, said to have been erected by Inigo Jones ; West Lodge, North Lodge, Beech Hill, Myddelton Home, and some others. — See Bmh Hill, and Southgjte. ENG — EPP. 253 ENGLEFIELD GREEN, a hamlet to the parish of Egham, Surrey, 18| miles from London, on the road to Reading, is delightfully situate on the summit of Cooper's Hill, and is said to be the place where the Danes were defeated by King Ethelwolf in 871. Sir W. H. Free- mantle, Rart., and several other gentlemen, have hand- some seats here. EPPING, a market-town in Essex, 16| miles east from London, famous for its butter and sausages, is on the high road to Newmarket. The town consists principally of one long and wide street, on a ridge of hills of consi- derable extent, north and south. It has some good houses of modern erection, especially schools, for which this place, on account of its salubrious situation, is well adapted. Besides the church, there are places of worship here, for Independents and Quakers. At about two miles from the church is Copt, or Copped Hall, which see. See also War leys and Hill Hall, EPPING FOREST, an extensive tract of woodland, taking its present name from the town of Epping ; it was formerly called Waltham Forest, and, in more remote ages, the Forest of Essex, it having, in the reign of James II., overspread nearly the whole of the county. This forest is under the jurisdiction of a lord warden and four verderers ; the former of these titles is hereditary in the family of Sir James Tilney Long, Bart. The ver- derers are elected by the freeholders of the county, and retain their offices for life. The forest rights are as various as the different manors that surround it. In this forest, though within 12 miles of London, wild stags are yet found, and a stag is annually turned out on Easter Mon- day, under an establishment patronised by the principal merchants of the City ; the kennel for the hounds, and the house belonging to the hunt, were some time ago rebuilt. The Easter hunt, at Epping, commenced in I'^SG, when King Henry III. confirmed to the citizens of London free warren, or liberty to hunt in a circuit round their city, in z 251 EPSOM. the forests of Stanway (Staines), ITainaiilt, &c. The lord mayor and aldermen formerly attended on these occasions. At the Forest-court, held in 1670, William Lord Grey brought in a very large claim for his manor of Epping, of liberties, privileges, immunities, exemptions, courts baron and leet, view of frank-pledge, profits, and emoluments, as extensive as any manor doth or can possibly enjoy, &c. ; also, to have a weekly market here on Friday (as first granted by King Henry III., in 1253) yvith two fairs, &c. The Lords North and Grey obtained a grant for two markets weekly, one on Tuesday, the other on Friday : the first is disused. EPSOM, a large and pleasant village, 15 miles S.S.VV. from London, on the road to Dorking and Guildford, had formerly a weekly market; and, at the end of the 17th, and beginning of the 18th century, was a place of fashion- able resort, on account of its mineral waters, which issued from a spring half a mile west of the village. The fame of these waters soon spread all over the world, and the concourse of persons of all nations resorting hither was so great, that about 1680, Epsom salts were prepared, and eagerly purchased, at Jive shillings per oz. ; and the lord of the manor erected a ball-room, and planted several avenues of trees, to attract and amuse the company. The village flourished proportionably, with inns, lodging-houses, and shops, for a quarter of a century, when the waters gradually lost their reputation, and the place and its public rooms were deserted — a result partly attributable to the impositions of the place, partly to the new fashion of sea-bathing ; but chiefly, we presume, to the chemical fact, that the Epsom waters possessed no other virtues than such as are found in the common sulphate of mag- nesia. Epsom, during its prosperity, was of course over- built, and the present appearance of the village impresses every visitor that such has been the case, there being still more inns and public-house in it than would suffice for a place six times its size. These, however, enjoy a brief ERITH. 256 Ii'cirvest during the races, which now take place twice a-year on Epsom Downs : first, for three days, on the Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, in the week pre- ceding Whitsuntide (Thursday being the grand public day, when the Derby Stakes are run for; and on which day some of the royal family, many of the nobility, and at least 50,000 other persons attend) ; and secondly, by recent appointment, in the course of the month of October. The races commence at about 1 o'clock, and conclude soon after 4. The grand stand was built in 1828, by an asso- ciation of noblemen and gentlemen. It is built in the Grecian style, by Trendall, is situate about 10 poles from the winning post, commands a view of the whole of the race- course, and will accommodate from 4,000 to 5,000 persons. The church of Epsom is a handsome Gothic edifice, erected, with the exception of the tower, in 1824, on the site and plan of the old church, which has been imitated by Mr. Hatchard, the architect, with great precision and effect ; the curve of its arches, and the mouldings of its columns, being exactly similar. Around Epsom are several handsome seats — Woodcoie Park, the Baron Tessier ; Horton Place, J. Trotter, Esq. ; Epsorn Grove, — Garland, Esq.; the seat of Sir Mark Parsons, Bart., and some others. — See Durdens. ERITH, " derived, as I guess," says Lambarde, *'of the Saxon erre^ and hythe, that is, the old haven," is a small village in Kent, 14 miles from London, close to the river Thames. In the church two fine monuments have been lately erected to the memory of the late Lord Eardley and his granddaughter, the Countess Gottorp, the only daughter of Lord Say and Sele, whose elegant mansion and beautiful grounds are near this village (see Belvidere House.) Erith Church, in the reign of King John, was appointed as the place of assembly for commissioners to settle a peace between the king and the barons. It is noted for its picturesque ivy-mantled tower, and is an ancient structure. The interior contains several menu- 256 ESHER. ments of great antiquity, among which is an alabaster tomb, much mutilated, in memory of Elizabeth Countess of Shrewsbury, who is represented in her robes and coro- net, lying on a mat, with a lion at her feet, and her head on a cushion : the inscription is obliterated. On a slab, near the above, are small whole-length figures in brass, of a knight in armour, and his lady ; the inscription is gone, but it recorded the memory of Sir Richard Walden, Knt., and Margery his wife, the parents of the Countess of Shrewsbury. On another slab are brass figures of a knight and his lady, with the arms of Walden ; the head of the lady is gone, as are the figures of their sons and daughters. There are also other monuments of the same family, and several more modern ones, for the Vanackers and Wheat- leys, owners of this manor. In this neighbourhood, for- merly stood the Abbey of Lesnes, founded in 1178, by Richard de Lucy, for canons regular of St. Augustine. Of this there are still some remains in a small farm-house, and a good account of it may be found in the Archaeo- logia. Vol. I. p. 44, with a representation of the abbey as it existed in 1755. There are several matters in this parish worthy the attention of the antiquary and geologist. ESHER, a remarkably pleasant village in Surrey, 16 miles from Westminster-bridge, on the road through Kingston to Portsmouth. The church stands on a small knoll in the village, and consists of a nave and chancel, with a chamber-pew on the southern exterior, built by the Duke of Newcastle, when owner of Claremont. At the w^est end is a low tower, with a pyramidal spire, having three bells, one of which is stated to have been brought from St. Domingo, by Sir Francis Drake. The font is an octagonal basin, on each side of which is carved a rose, supported by a plain octagonal pillar. In the south wall of the chancel is a tomb, with the effigies of a man in complete armour, but no inscription or arms. On the north wall of the chancel is painted the effigies of a lady in weeds, with a book, on a desk before her an inscrip- ESIIEE. 267 tion stales that it is to the memory of Lady Lynch. In the register-book, among the entry of those buried in woollen, there is a singular one in 1680 : — Mem. Mary White was only wrapt up in herbs. In this parish is Esher Place, the seat and property of John Spicer, Esq. This was formerly a manorial posses- sion of the bishops of Winchester, having been given by William the Conqueror to the Abbey of St. Leofrid, and sold hy the abbot to the bishops of Winchester. Here these prelates had a park, in which William Wainflete, when bishop, between 1447^ and 1486, built a stately brick house, on the bank of the Mole. His arms, with those of his see, carved in stone, were placed over the gate-house, and in several other parts of the building. On the timber-work in the hall, not unlike that of West- minster-hall, were several augels carved, supporting escutcheons, in two of which were scrolls, with Tibi Christe and in the windows, frequently, " Sit Deo Gratia." Here the bishops occasionally resided. Wolsey, when appointed to the see of Winchester, in 1528, ordered the house here to be repaired, and some parts of it rebuilt, purposing to make it his retreat when the king resided at Hampton- court. Hither he retired after his first dis- grace, and continued for several weeks at this mansion, till he obtained permission to remove to Richmond. In 1538, this manor was purchased of Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, by Henry VIII., who made it part of the manor and chace of Hampton-court. In a survey of it, taken in the beginning of the next reign, it is said that here was a mansion sumptuously built ; and adjoining to it a park, called Esher Park, about 3 miles in circum- ference, stocked with deer. On the accession of Queen Mary, Gardiner prevailed on her to restore this estate to his see, of which it was once more purchased by Queen Elizabeth, who, in her 25th year, 1583, gave it to Charles Lord Howard of Effingham. This house and park were sold separately from the manor by one of the subsequent z 3 258 ETOK. proprietors. At what time this mansion was pulled down is not known. In 1729, when it was purchased by Thomas Pelham, Esq., brother to the Duke of Newcastle, nothing was standing but the gate-house, to which he made addi- tions in the same style. In 1804, it became the property of Lord Sondes, eldest son of his daughter Grace, who, next year, sold the estate in parcels. The house and park, containing- about 150 acres, were bought by John Spicer, Esq. The former stood in a flat situation, near the Mole. The additions made by Mr. Pelham were pulled down by Mr. Spicer 5 but he has left the original gate-house stand- ing, and erected a new mansion on elevated ground, which commands a view of the park and of the surround- ing country. In what is now called Sandon Farm, in this parish, adjoining to the common, known by the general name of Ditton Marsh, was once a hospital or priory, founded by Robert de Wateville, in the beginning of the reign of Henry II., and united, in 1436, with the hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark. There are many elegant seats in the vicinity of this vil- lage ; as those of — Scott, Esq. ; — Roberts, Esq. ; — • Johnson, Esq. ; and Esher Lodge, Mrs. Terry. — See also, Claremont. ETON, a village in Bucks, on the banks of the Thames, opposite to Windsor, with which it is connected by a wooden bridge. The place consists principally of a single street, pleasantly situate on the banks of the Thames. It has long been celebrated for its royal college, founded in 1440, by Henry VI., for the support of a provost and seven fellows, and the classical education of 70 scholars, who, when properly qualified, are annually elected to King's College, Cambridge ; to which they are removed, according to seniority, as vacancies occur. The college consists of two quadrangles. In the outermost, are the schools and lodges for the masters and scholars ; and on the south side, is the college chapel. On the front, is part of the provost's ewell. 259 lodgings, and a handsome tower or gateway dividing the two courts. In the centre of the first quadrangle, is a neat brass statue of the royal founder. The other quad- rangle consists of the apartments of the provost and fel- lows of the college. The library is as neat and elegant as any in the kingdom, both as respects its architecture and its collection of books. The 70 King's scholars," as those are called who are on the foundation, when properly qualified, are elected, on the first Tuesday in August, to King's College, Cambridge, but are not removed till there are vacancies in that college, and then according to senior- ity : after they have been three years at Cambridge, they claim a fellowship. Besides those on the foundation, here are seldom less than 300 noblemen and gentlemen's sons, called oppidans y who board at the masters* houses, or within the bounds of the college. The school is divided into upper and lower, and each of these into three classes. To each school there is a master and four assistants. The revenue of the college amounts to above 5,000/. a-year. The Eton Montem is a singular custom, celebrated here every third year, on Whit-Tuesday. It consists of a pro- cession of all the pupils to a small eminence, on the southern side of the Bath road, which has obtained the name of Salt Hill, from which spot they disperse them- selves to collect donations from all passengers, no one being permitted to pass without giving money for salt» Those collecting it are called salt-bearers, and are arrayed in fancy dresses. The money thus collected amounts to several hundred pounds, and has been known to exceed 800/. It is given to the senior scholar, denominated the captain of the school, for his support at the University of Cambridge. The ceremony is generally very numerously attended : it used to be occasionally honoured by the pre- sence of his majesty and the royal family. EWELL, a small town in Surrey, with a market on Thursdays, but with very little of the appearance of a market-town. Here is the head of a copious spring, called 260 FAIR LOP OAK, the Hog-'s Mill River, which, in its progress to the Thames, turns several corn and gunpowder-mills. The church is an ancient structure of flints and chalk, having a tower of the same, but finished with brick-work, and four small pinnacles. Within, are some curious monuments, of con- siderable antiquity, and several handsome ones of more modern date. Nearly opposite the churcli is Ewell Castle, Thomas Calverley, Esq. ; and in the neighbourhood is Ewell Grove, Sir John R,ae Reid, Bart. ; and many other genteel seats and villa residences. In the town was born Richard Corbet, Bishop of Norwich, in 1632, much noted as a preacher in the reign of James I., to which monarch he w^as chaplain. FAIRLOP OAK, a remarkable tree which stood, a few years since, in the Forest of Hainault, Essex, near Barking. Its age was so great, that the late Mr. Gilpin, in his " Remarks on Forest Scenery," says, *' The tradition of the country traced it half way up the Christian era." The stem was rough and fluted, and measured about 36 feet in girth ; the branches overspreading an area of 300 feet in circumference. In the month of June, 1805, this cele- brated tree having been accidentally set on fire, the trunk was considerably injured, and some of the principal branches were much destroyed. It has since wholly perished ; but there is a print of it, as it appeared after the accident, in the " Gentleman's Magazine for July, 1806," and a part of it has been converted into the beau- tiful carved pulpit of Pancras New Church, New..road. Fairloj) Fair, which for many years w^as holden round tlie venerable oak, of which w^e have just spoken, and which is still, on the first Friday in July, holden on the same spot, originated from an eccentric character, named John Day, a block and pump-maker, of Wapping, who had a small estate near the oak, w^hither he used to repair annually, on the above-mentioned day : it was his custom to invite u select party of his neighbours to accompany FETCHAM. 261 him, and dine under the shade of this tree, on beans and bacon. In the course of a few years, other parties were formed on this day, and suttling booths were erected for their accommodation. These progressively increasing, booths were also erected by persons who brought various articles for sale ; and, about the year 1725, the place began to exhibit the appearance of a regular fair. Mr. Day continued to resort annually to his favourite spot, until his death ; and, in memory of its origin, never failed to provide, on the day of the fair, several sacks of beans, with a proportionate quantity of bacon, which he distri- buted, from the trunk of the tree, to the persons there assembled. For several years before Mr. Day's death, the pump and block-makers of VVapping went annually to the fair, in a boat of one entire piece of fir, covered with an awning, mounted on a coach-carriage, and drawn by six horses, attended with flags and streamers, a band of music, and a great number of persons, both on foot and on horseback, A few years before Mr. Day's death, his favourite oak lost a large limb, out of which he had a coffin made for his own interment. He died on the 19th of October, 1767, at the age of 84. His remains, pur- suant to his own request, were conveyed to Barking, by water, accompanied by six journeymen pump and block- makers, to each of whom he bequeathed a new leather apron and a guinea. FETCHAM, a small village near Leatherhead, Surrey, bounded east and north by the river Mole. The church is curious ; it is built of flint, intermixed with pebbles and chalk, with here and there some Roman tiles. The tower is low and embattled, and is of flint, with quoins of brick- work. The original form of the edifice has evidently been that of a cross, of which, in spite of many reparations, it still retains marks. The north end of a transept still re- mains ; the nave is separated from the aisle by two pointed arches , and on the south side are the remains of three 262^ FIF — FIT, other arches, supposed to have formerly communicated with another aisle. Here is Fetcham Park, the handsome seat of J. B. Hankey, Esq., and in the vicinity are several elegant retirements. FIFTELD, a parish in Essex, 10 miles from Chelmsford, and 25 from London, woTthy of mention on account of its church, which is one of the few remaining specimens of rural churches, with the steeple in the centre, cathedral- wise. It is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and has a nave and two aisles, with arches supported by columns. The ori- ginal tower fell down, and a wooden one has been erected in its stead, which is entered by a staircase of flints and lloman bricks, strongly cemented together. In this tower the bells are deposited, on one of which is inscribed, Saricta Catherina, ora pro nobis." In the south wall of the chancel, there are three arches rising above each other, supported by two columns of grey marble : the east win- dow is decorated with ancient carvings in stone. FINCHLEY, a village in Middlesex, 8 miles N.W. from London, on the road to St. Alban's. It is noted for its common, which formerly consisted of upwards of 1,000 acres, the greater part of which is now inclosed and culti- vated. The church is a neat edifice, with an embattled tower. In the vicinity are many substantial and elegant V illas. FITZ WALTERS, an ancient manorial estate in Essex, in the parish of Shenfield, one mile from the church of that place, north-west from the road between Ingatestone and Brentwood. This is supposed to have been, in 1301, the property of Lord Robert Fitzwalter (whence the name of the manor), and it was held, in 1363, by Joan, his widow, of the king in capite, by the service of supplying a pair of gilt spurs at the coronation. About 1400, it became the possession of the Knyvett famil}^, and subsequently of John Morecroft, Esq., who erected the house, after what is stated to be an Italian model. The building is on low TOO — FRO 263 gTOimcV and being* of an octangular form, with the chim- neys rising in the centre, has a very singular appearance. It has a piece of water in front, w4th a neat fancy bridge, and toward the road are two porter's lodges. After Mr. Morecroft's death, the manor was enjoyed successively by several families. It is now the residence of J. Tasker, Esq., but the property, w^e believe, of Robt. W. Hall Dare, Esq. FOOT'S CUAY, a village in Kent, on the river Cray, 12J miles E. S. E. from London. Here is Foofs Cray Place, which was built by Mr. Bouchier Cleve, a rich pewterer of Cheapside, after a design of Palladio. The house, which is built of stone, stands on rising ground, with a gradual descent towards the river Cray, which, by means of an artificial cascade, and other ingenious con > trivances, adds great beauty to the pleasure-grounds. This elegant villa is now the seat of Lord Bexley, Near it was the residence of the late Marquess of Londonderry ; North Cray Place, H. Meux, Esq ; Mount Mascal, Capt. Cator; Blend on Hall, J. Smith, Esq., and many other elegant residences. FRIARN BARNET.— Barnet. FROGMORE, a hamlet to Windsor, Berks, lying be- tween the Great and Little Park, 22^ miles from London. The estate, which lies in a fertile valley, comprises about 13 acres, laid out in pleasure-ground, with a variety of rare shrubs, and five ornamental buildings, denominated respectively, the Gothic Temple, the Ruin, the Hermitage, the Temple of Solitude, and the Barn. The mansion was greatly improved by Wyatt ; it has a projecting colonnade towards the south, which unites the principal building with two uniform wings. Her late Majesty, Queen Charlotte, purchased this estate in 1792, and it was afterwards a favourite retirement of his majesty and herself. Since her majesty's decease, much of the furniture, paintings, &c., was sold in London by public auction, The villa has been 264 FULIIAM. of late years the residence of her Royal Highness the Princess Augusta. FULHA.M, a village in Middlesex, 4 miles S. W. from London, is situated near the Thames, opposite Putney, with which it is connected by a wooden bridge, built in 1l729. This manor belonged to the Bishops of London a considerable time before the Conquest. The Episcopal Palace is near the banks of the Thames, westward from Fulham. The most ancient part formed a quadrangle of brick, and was erected by Bishop Fitz-James, in the reign of Henry VIL In the modern alterations, considerable taste has been displayed, and the whole palace has been rendered much more convenient than formerly. It occu- pies a low site, and is surrounded by a moat. The grounds comprise about 37 acres, and have long been celebrated for the care with which they are cultivated, and the rare plants which they contain. They obtained their original celebrity during the prelacy of Bishop Grindall, one of the earliest encouragers of botany, and the first who imported the tamarisk-tree into this country, about the year 1560. Bishop Compton, who was himself an excellent botanist, made them still more celebrated, by the introduction of many new plants and forest-trees, particularly from North America. There is a fine terrace-walk on the banks of the river, parallel with the garden, but separated from it by a small stream. The church at Fulham is a large irregular stone building, containing numerous monuments : one of which commemo- rates the famous Dr. William Butts, whom Shakspeare has immortalised in his play of King Henry VIII., to which monarch the doctor was chief physician : he died in 1545. The monument of Dorothy, Lady Clarke, who died in 1695, was executed by Grinling Gibbons, who had 300/. for his work. Here also is an elaborate monument by Bushnell and Bird, in memory of Lord Viscount Mor- daunt, who died in 16? 5, aged 48. In the church-yard lie GAR — GAT. 265 entombed many of the prelates who have filled the see of London since the Restoration. Here, also, lie buried the Rev. Dr. Rich. Fiddes, author of the Life of Cardinal Wolsey; the late Dr. William Cadogan; and Sir A. S. Douglas, who was captain of the Queen Charlotte, in the ever-glorious action of June 1, 1794. The whole parish of Fulham is fertile, and highly cultivated : the greater portion is laid out in nursery- grounds, and market-gardens and it is conjectured that one-half, at least, of the green vegetables and fruits, sold in Covent-garden, is grown in this and the adjoining parishes. In the neighbourhood are many handsome villas. GARRATT, a hamlet to the parish of Wandsworth, Surrey, lies between that parish and Tooting. Here are a few houses, chiefly of persons in humble circumstances, and an extensive iron-mill on the Wandle, This place, in the part called Garratt-lane, was formerly famous as the scene of a mock election, which took place upon the meet- ing of every new parliament, when several well-known characters in low life offered themselves as candidates for the borough of Garratt, as it was called, being decorated for the occasion at the expense of the neighbouring pub- licans, whose interest it was to keep up the frolic. The election was suppressed by the magistrates in 1796, on account of the riots and profligate scenes to which it led. Mr. Hone, in his Every Day Book," gives a most ex- cellent account of this mock election, and of the worthies who successively were chosen mayors," and Mr. Foote has perpetuated the memory of this waggery in his farce of the " Mayor of Garratt.'* GATTON, Surrey, situate 2| miles N.E. of Reigate, famous for having been what is termed a " rotten borough/* from the 29th Hen. VL, 1451, till the date of the Reform Bill, consists now of about a dozen straggling houses only, but is thought to have been, in ancient times, garrisoned by the Romans, and long afterwards a populous and im- portant place. That it was known to the Romans seems A A 266 GIDEA HALL. unquestionable ; for their coins, and other remains, have been found here frequently, and in considerable quan- tities. The manor-house, called Gatton Park, which carried with it the property of the borough, was late the seat of Sir Mark Wood, but now of Lord Monson. It is situate in the midst of an extensive park, and the mansion is exceed- ingly elegant. The approach to it is thought equal to any thing of the kind in the kingdom. From the lodge, which is on the summit of the hill leading to Reigate, the road winds beautifully down the park, for a mile, amid woods and groves of fir ; presenting, here and there, through breaks, some enchanting views of the country below. From the south front of the house the prospects are rich, various, and extensive. At the foot of the sloping emi- nence on which it is situated, is a fine lake, of forty acres, enriched with two beautiful well-planted islands, the haunts of swans and other aquatic fowls. The adjacent country is finely broken and diversified by wood-crowned hills and luxuriant vales. Upper Gatton House is also a handsome mansion, with a park of about 100 acres, now one of the seats of the Duke of St. Alban's. 'NiLtwood Cottage is the agreeable retirement of Sir J. C. Smyth, Bart. ; and Ladbroke House, the residence of a family of that name. The church of Gatton, ^ small edifice, is situate within Gatton Park ; it is not in any respect remarkable. GIDEA HALL, near Romford, Essex, now the seat of Alexander Black, Esq., is a very ancient edifice. The manor at the Domesday survey belonged to the abbey of St. Peter, at Westminster ; but in the reign of Edward IV., it belonged to Sir Thomas Cooke, son of Robert Cooke, Esq., of Lavenham, Suffolk. Sir Thomas commenced the building of the mansion, but died in 1478, without finishing it, in consequence of heavy fines being levied on his pro- perty during the contentions of the rival houses of York GOBIONS. 267 and Lancaster. His gTeat-grandson, Sir Anthony Cooke, one of the preceptors of King Edward VI., and whose four daughters* were noted as the most learned and accom- plished women of the age in whicli thev lived, completed the edi£ce, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and had the honour of entertaining that princess here in 1568. Shortly after this period, the estate appears to have been sold to Richard Elmes, Esq., and in 1668, to John Bird, Esq., the next possessor to whom w^as John Hathersale, Esq., ■who sold it to Sir John Eyles, Bart., of an ancient family in Wiltshire, in w^hose descendants it continued till 1745, when it was sold to Richard Benyon, Esq., governor of Fort St. George. The son of this gentleman, Richard Benyon, Esq., enlarged the mansion, and much improved the grounds, by plantations, and a fine sheet of water, crossing the high road, over which is a bridge of three elliptic arches, designed by Mr. Wyatt. The mansion is a spacious square brick building, and has been so much added to by its later possessors, that but little of it now appears above a century old. GOBIONS (vulgarly Gubbins) the seat of Thomas * Mildred, the eldest daughter, was 42 years the wife of William Lord Burleigh. She was learned in the Greek tongue, and wrote a letter in that language to the University of Cambridge. She had great poli- tical talents, was a patroness of literature, and distinguished for her numerous charities. Anne, the second, was the second wife of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper, and mother of the great Lord St. Alban's ; eminently skilled in Greek, Latin, and Italian, she had the honour of being appointed governess of Edward VL She translated from the Italian the Sermons of Bamardine Occhini; and from the Latin, Bishop Jewel s Apology for the Church of England. Elizabeth, the third daughter, was first the wife of Sir Thomas Hobby, ambas- sador to France; and afterwards of John Lord Russell, son of Francis, Earl of Bedford. For the tombs of both her husbands, she wrote epi- taphs in Greek, Latin, and English. Catherine, the fourth, married Sir Henry Killegrew, was famous for her knowledge of Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, and for her skill in poetry. 268 GOD — GRA. Kemble, Esq., is situate 5 miles N.N.VV. from Barnet. It is so named from its ancient lords, after whose time it was possessed by Lady More, mother-in-law of the illus- trious chancellor. In Queen Anne's reign, this estate was purchased by Sir J. Sambroke, Bart., in whose time the grounds were laid out by Bridgeman. It has since had several possessors, and the house has been partly rebuilt. GODSTONE, a village in Surrey, 19i miles S.E. from London, on the Lewes road, seems to be derived from Good-stone, the place having been anciently noted for its excellent stone -quarries. The church is on an eminence, at a considerable distance from the village. See Harden Park. GORHAMBURY, 2 miles W.S, W. of St. Alban's, is the seat of Earl Verulam. This mansion was erected to- wards the close of the 18th century, and consists of a spa- cious stone centre, surmounted by a balustrade and cornice, united to two stuccoed wings. All the principal apart- ments are of noble dimensions, and ornamented with a rich collection of paintings. The park, which includes about 600 acres, is amply wooded, well stocked with deer, and presents very agreeable diversities of surface. GRAVESEND, Kent, a market-town, 22 miles from the metropolis, and the boundary of the port of London, is called in Domesday-book Grevesham, and in the Textus RofFensis Greves-ende, derived, according to Lambarde, and the best authorities, from the Saxon gerefa, a ruler, in German greve, and the English word end. Hence Greves- end, now called Gravesend, signifies the limit or bound of the office of a greve, or portreve, which was the title of an officer, ancienily appointed as the head or ruler of this town. Lambarde, who wrote in the 14th century, speaks of such an officer having been lately created" at this place ; otherwise, as the mayors of London were anciently styled portreves, and as it is well known that the jurisdic- tion of the City on the Thames extends to Gravesend, but there ends, these facts would furnish a more obvious GRAVESEND. 269 etymology. The vulgar notion tliat Gravesend is so called, because the plague stopped short of the town, is almost too absurd for refutation ; yet, as this etymology is current, we may just mention, that the place w as called Gravesend long before the date of either of the plagues with which London has been afflicted. The parish of Gravesend was incorporated, in the reign of Elizabeth, with that of Milton, and the conjoint parishes are governed by a mayor, thirteen jurats, (inchiding the mayor) ^4 common- councilm en, a recorder, high-steward, chamberlain, town-clerk, and sergeant at-mace : or, at least tvere so governed before the passing of the Corporation Keform Act, which repeals and annuls all laws, statutes, usages, royal and other charters, grants, and letters patent, inconsistent with its provisions, in force relating to the several boroughs enumerated in schedules A and B, to that act annexed, in the former of which schedules is Gravesend* The manor of Gravesend was anciently in possession of the abbot of St. Mary-le Grace, Tower-hill, who, it is related, obtained of Richard II., about anno 1400, a grant to the watermen of Gravesend and Milton, of the exclusive privilege of conveying passengers to London, which they had previously held by prescriptive right, on condition that they should provide boats, and carrj^ all persons (with their *' fardel or trusse," that is, parcels or luggage) at a head, or the whole boat's fare at 4s, From 2d. the fare was raised to 6d., and, on the boats being decked, 9c/. was paid ; afterwards, about 1790, the tilt-boats, as they were called, being greatly improved, Is. was given ; and, finally. Is. 6c?., which is the fare of the sailing-boats to the present day. The use of these vessels, however, is now superseded by the numerous and elegantly equipped steam- packets, which start several times a day to and from Gravesend, and some of which (in 1836) carried passen- gers for Is. a head ! The first steam-packet that conveyed passengers to and from London and Gravesend, started in 270 GRAVESEND. April, 1819 ; in 18^0, there were two only, and the price was 3^. for the best or aft, and 2s. for the fore-cabin. The passage to and from London by water, was anciently termed the long ferry ; besides which, here is another ferry, across the river to Tilbury, for troops, carriages, horses, &c. To remove the inconvenience of this mode of con* veyance, Mr. Ralph Dodd, the engineer, undertook, in 1798, to unite the two counties of Kent and Essex, by forming a tunnel below the bed of the Thames ; and a con- siderable subscription being raised for this purpose, the work was commenced on the Gravesend side. The water, however, soon began to impede the progress of the work- men, and increasing in quantity with almost every yard excavated, the undertaking was relinquished ; the steam- engine and wood-work having been first destroyed by a fire, which is thought to have been intentional. In the reach opposite Gravesend, all outward-bound ships are obliged to anchor, till they have been visited by the searchers belonging to the Custom-house, and many of these vessels are supplied with live and dead stock, and vegetables, from Gravesend. The lower part of Gravesend presents the appearance of a port, and is anything but attractive ; the streets and paths being exceedingly narrow and inconvenient, looking dirty, if they are not so, and causing much unpleasant jostling and annoyance. In the upper part of the town, and in the environs, all is in much better taste ; a vast number of neat residences meet the eye, and the scene becomes cheerful and agreeable, if not rural. The style, however, of all the modern erections in and round this town, is too much after that of crowded cities ; cottages rare, rows of slight run-up houses abundant, and the gar- dens mere slips of ground. The apology for this is, that most of these buildings are meant, we presume, for lodging- houses, to afford accommodation to the concourse of visitors constantly resorting hither ; and far be it from us to dis- parage the idace, because the rows of houses around it re- GRAVESEND. 271 mind us of Providence -row, Walworth, or some equally well-named row in the Hackney or Kent-road. Gravesend has many attractions, though its builders have not pleased our taste, and the chief of these is, that it is unquestionably a dry and healthy place, and its air pure and bracing. The river, from the pier of Gravesend to Tilbury Fort, on the opposite shore, is a mile in breadth. In its ebb and flow, it rises and falls more than 20 feet, which must infallibly cause a change in a vast column of air twice in 24 hours. A substratum of chalk, of great depth, on which the soil reposes for some miles round the town, quickly absorbs all moisture, and prevents the possible stagnation of any matter which might engender noxious vapours. Here then, are two most satisfactory physical causes of healthy atmos- phere, which alone were sufficient to lead vast numbers of persons to visit Gravesend, even if it were situate at a much greater distance than it is from the metropolis. The principal public buildings at Gravesend are the old church and new chapel of ease, the pier, the town-hall, the market-place, the excise office, the custom-house, some gas and water-works, and a small theatre. The church, which is near the Thames, and dedicated to St. George, is one of the fifty" built under an act of Queen Anne, and was erected about the year 1730. It is of brick, with stone quoins and cornices, and in many respects resembles that of St. Mary's, Islington. The interior is plain but commodious, and contains a handsome organ and loft. The chapel of ease is on the London- road, and is of the modern Gothic style. Gravesend boasts of hot, cold, shower and vapour baths, and of machines for bathing in the river at any period of the tide. These have been provided by their spirited proprietor with very considerable outlay, and are recommended by moderateness of charge, and invariable civility and attention. The pier, which is neat and com- modious, is of modern erection. Its chief object is, that passengers may land from steam-packets, at all periods of 272 GRAVESEND. the tide, without the intervention of boats. In the summer of 1833, a temporary jetty was first erected for this purpose, while the materials were preparing- for a permanent one ; but this was destroyed, one night, by a number of boatmen, W'ho fancied themselves injured, because their private ad- vantage was not preferred to the public good. The jetty was immediately restored, and the pier has since been completed, which, in fact, is itself little more than a jetty, as it consists of piles of cast iron supporting a floor or stage, and running out about 40 feet from the wharf-wall, built some years before. The payment of 2d. each entitles visitors to admittance to walk or loiter on the pier for the whole day ; or the payment of 1^. 6d. confers the same privilege for a month. Another pier has recently been erected at Gravesend, facing the Terrace, (and therefore called the Terrace Pier) by the Star Packet Company, for the accommodation of their own passengers only. This pier is nothing more than a slight wooden jetty, and, with the exception that it has some gardens attached to it (at present not very attractive), we are not aware of any facility or advantage, in point of cheapness or convenience, which the public can derive from its erection. On landing at Gravesend, at either pier, the visitor will find immediate conveyance to Rochester and Chatham by omnibuses, which await the arrival of the steamers, or may hire a fy to carry a party thither, or elsewhere, at a rate tolerably moderate. As to luggage, there are porters, (whose identity may be recognized hj a number painted on their hats), who constantly ply on and about the piers with barrows, whose charges are limited, independently of their being, to all appearance, a civil, respectable set of men. On the east side of this town, commences the Thames and Medway Canal, passing through the several parishes of Milton, Denton, Chalk, Higham, Shorne, and Cliff, to the river Medw^ay, at Nicholson's ship-yard ; from this GRAVESEND. 273 canal, a cut is made from White-Wall, in the parish of Frindsbury, into the river Med way, opposite his majesty's dock-yard at Chatham. The amusement which Gravesend affords must be sought in the tours around it, of which we shall now speak, merely observing-, en passant, that readers may find a library or two here, and a very good one at Milton, adjoin- ing, and that idlers may dissipate their time and money, if they please, at " lounges," where, of evenings, there is some singing, or, if they prefer it, at an indifferent theatre. Excursions at Gravesend. — 1. View the pier, and the other public buildings in and about the town ; cross the ferry to Tilbury, and view the fort. 2. At Milton, adjoining the town, there is a fine view of the river : examine the church and church-yard, and inspect Penny's library there. (See Milton). Thence proceed to the top of Windmill-hill, on which are the reservoir, &c., of the new water-works, and near which are some attractive nursery-gardens, and several tea-gardens, with grounds for archery, cricket, and other manly exercises. The view from the hill is delightful. (See Windmill Hill). S. To Cobham Hall and village, whither, from Gravesend, it is a most enchanting walk of 4 miles, over Windmill-hill, and thence almost entirely through fields, passing a small village, called Single well. See Cobham (hall and village). 4. Up West-street, by the baths, to Northfleet, where a walk in the Hive-park, a survey of the dock-yards, and a ramble in the extensive and winding cliff in the vicinity, will aiTord ample recrea- tion. (See Northfleet).) Return by the London-road, past the Victoria- gardens, which are really very tastefully laid out, and where refreshments may be obtained, and bowling, archery, and other sports, either partaken of, or witnessed. Here are occasional galas, with displays of fire-works. 5. To Rochester, 8 miles, and Chatham, by omnibus (charge Is. 6d.) On the road, S\ miles from Rochester, is Gad's-hill, celebrated by Shakspeare, as the spot where 274 GRAVESEND. Prince Henry and Poins attacked Falstaft and his com- panions, to trj their courage, and compelled them to resign their bootj. There is an inn here called the FalstafF, to commemorate this jest. During the ride, the scenery right and left is occasionally very rural and romantic. A pillar, which stands near the river on the left, attracts the eye, and requires the explanation that it was erected (recently) , by subscription, to the memory of the late Mr. Charles Larkins, an auctioneer at Rochester, and an alder- man of that city— a gentleman who distinguished himself in the cause of Reform, and was ever active in the redress- ing of parochial and other abuses. The obelisk stands in grounds belonging to an estate called Great Hermitage, the seat of — Bentley, Esq., and from its occupying a com- manding eminence, it is a' conspicuous object both by land and water. At Rochester, Cwhich is far beyond the limits of this work) there are so many things to be seen, that we fear but little can be accomplished in a single day. There are the old castle, and the cathedral church, the river Medway and its bridge, Chatham Dock-yard, the Lines, the Barracks, and the Temple Farm at Stroud, (the site of an ancient manor-house of the Knights Templars,) and many other notable matters to yield a careful man work." 6. Take a fly to Swanscombe and Greenhithe, two picturesque and beau- tiful villages, surrounded by romantic walks and views, where a day may be well spent. For particulars, refer to those places, 7. To Chalk and Shorne (3^ to 4 miles). A pretty w-alk, the pleasure of which is much heightened by views of the Thames, which are caught at intervals during the whole distance. Both places are hilly and picturesque, and have charming walks and views. Their churches should be visited. Refer to each, under its proper letter. 8. To Meopham, (pronounced Muffum) about six miles, and a delightful walk or ride. The place is only attractive, on account of its rural situation and scenery. The other trips from Gravesend are, to Denton JMill, near at hand. GRAVESEND. 275 (where may be seen the Custom-house, the military land- ing-place, the batteries, and the canal basin, and where there are some good and cheap baths, with a fine view of the river, the shipping, and the Essex coast, on one side, and of rural scenery on the other) ; to Nursted, 4 miles ; to Springhead, through beautiful fields, 2| miles ; to Shorne Mead Battery, along the sea-bank, 4 miles, and to South- fleet, 3 miles. (Turn toSouthfleet). Of these last-mentioned places, however, with the exception of Southfleet, it may perhaps be said, in the language of Dr. Johnson, that they are *' worth seeing , but not worth going to see.'' ^ To con- clude the subject of local and vicinal attractions, we may add, that boats, whether for sails or rows, are always to be hired at Gravesend, and that the sportsman may, close at hand, find work for his slaughtering tube. Close against Gravesend, on the London side, between the Thames and the London road, a new town is about to be erected, to be entitled Rosierville^ from its spirited builder, Jeremiah Rosier, Esq., who has a handsome seat here on the banks of the Thames, and extensive possessions in the neighbourhood. handsome stone pier for this new village was nearly completed in July, 1836, and the build- ing of several of the houses had commenced. The Trip to Gravesend, by Steam. — The Gravesend steam- packets start every morning at 9 and 10, all the year round, from the Steam Companies' and other wharfs, London-bridge, and from St. Katherine's, Tower-hill, and in the summer, frequently 4 or 5 times a day. Presuming our reader on board," and safely through the Pool," which is the crowded part of the river, extending from London-bridge to Deptford, we shall range in separate columns the places which successively come in view, premising, that many interesting particulars concerning these places may be found by referring to each, under its proper alphabetical head. 276 COAST OF MIDDLESEX. COAST OF KENT. f DEPTFORD (Victualling and c Dock Yards.) DEPTFORD CREEK (where lie, the Dreadnought, 98 guns, now used as an hospital for invalid seamen of all nations. The Solbay — —. frigate, given by government to the ' use of the Marine Society for the education of poor friendless boys as seamen, and two other vessels, employed, we believe, as chapels tfor seamen.) C GREENWICH HOSPITAL - longedto a family named Devall. 3 ESSEX. View of Barking. Barking Creek and Flour-mill. View of Rainham. Half-"Way House. BELVIDERE HOUSE, late *the mansion of Lord Eardley, but )now of Lord Say and Sele (see ^Belvidere.) " ERITH. PURFLEET. Long Reach Tavern. Dartford Creek. View of Stone. SWANSCOMBE. GREEN HITHE. {INGRESS (a Gothic mansion, newly erected), and higress Park, Mr. Alderman Harmer. (See Ingress.) BELMONT CASTLE, near Grays, a beautiful modern man- sion, with Gothic towers and em- battlements, and extensive plea" sure-grounds, — Richard Webb, Esq. GRAYS, or GRAYS THUR-? ROCK. > NORTHFLEET. Baths and Bathing Machines. TILBURY FORT. GRAVESEND. GRAYS, or GREYS, THURROCK, a parish in Essex, 21 miles from London, received its distinguishing prefix of Greys, from the noble family of that name, who pos- sessed this manor for upwards of 300 years, from A.D. GREENHITHE. 279 1194, when it was granted by Kichard I. to Henry de Grey, progenitor of the families of the Greys of Cud- noure, Wilton, Ruthin, and Rothesfield. The mansion of the capital manor is on the right of the road to StifFord ; its present possessor is Thomas Theobald, Esq. The town, which has a market on Thursdays, and two fairs annually (May 23 and October 20), consists chiefly of a single street, irregularly built, extending along a creek, navigable for hoys and vessels of small burthen, on the border of the Thames. Great quantities of bricks are made here and sold in London, but the chief trade is in corn, A free-school, founded in 1706, by William Palmer, and amply endowed, instructs 10 poor boys in Latin, reading, writing, and accounts. The church, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, is built in the form of a cross, and has a tower on the north side. (See Belmont Castle,) GREENHITHE a romantic hamlet in Kent, 3 miles N.E. from Dartford, and 3 on the London side of Graves- end. It is delightfully situate on an eminence, near the Thames, and has a horse -ferry to the opposite shore, Greenhithe formerly belonged to the nuns of Dartford, (see Dartford) ; but is now a hamlet attached to the manor of Swanscombe. The range of hills, which, with little intermission, forms the boundary of all this coast, to Cliff and Cowling, commences here. The chalk-pits at this place are immense ; the cliffs formed by the excava- tions, presenting, in many places, perpendicular heights from 100 to 150 feet. The material thus obtained, forms a considerable article of commerce, both in its natural state, and when burnt into lime, for which purpose nume- rous kilns are visible, and not only London and the adja- cent country, but Holland, Flanders, and even China are hence supplied. The potteries in Staffordshire consume several thousand tons of flints, which pervade the chalk here in thin strata, that material forming the principal ingredient in the composition of the Staffordshire ware. The rubbish in the chalk is conveyed in lighters to all the 280 GREENSTED. ports and creeks in the opposite county of Essex, and even to Suffolk and Norfolk, where it is used for manuring the lands ; thus," says Hasted, '* this chalky soil con- tributes to make the strong clay lands of those countries rich and fertile, and this mixture of earth forms a com- position, which out of two otherwise barren extremes makes one prolific medium." In some parts the chalk works are many feet below the level of the Thames ; and being interspersed with houses, lime kilns, &c., present a very singular aspect, as well from the river as the various points inland. A vast quantity of fossil remains has been found from time to time imbedded in the strata of chalk in this neighbourhood 3 most of them parts of animals or of fishes, as teeth, palates, spines, and bones, curiously petrified. Near this i)lace are Ingress Park and Stone Castle (see Ingress,) Stone Castle stands on a fine eminence, to the right of the London road, and is now the seat of — Gordon, Esq., Greenhithe, and its vicinity, afford some good sketches for the landscape-painter. GREENSTED, near Ongar, a parish and village in Essex, 20 miles from London, is particularly noted for its church, which is generally supposed to be one of the most singular and ancient in Great Britain. The nave is formed of the half trunks of oaks, about a foot and a half in diameter, split, and roughly hewn at each end, to let them into a sill at the bottom, and into a plank at the top, where they are fastened with wooden pegs. This is the whole of the original fabric, which yet remains entire, though much corroded and worn by long exposure to the weather. It is 29 feet 9 inches long, 14 feet wide, and 5 feet 6 inches high, on the sides which supported the primitive roof. On the south side there are 16 trunks, and 2 door-posts ; on the north 21, and 2 vacancies filled up with plaster. The west end is built against by a boarded tower, and the east by a chancel of brick ; on the south side there is a wooden porch, and both sides are GREEN STREET. 281 strengthened by brick buttresses ; the roof is of later date, and tiled, but rises to a point in the centre, as ori- ginailj formed. The brick building has a blunt-pointed doorway, with mouldings curiously worked in the brick. It has been surmised that the original fabric was erected as a sort of shrine for the reception of the corpse of St. Edmund, which, on its return from London to Bury, was carried, as Lydgate relates, in a chest. The ancient road from London into Suffolk lay through this place. The church at Greensted, though itself, for the most part, of great antiquity, does not contain any remarkable monu- ments or inscriptions. Eastward of the church is Greensted Hall, a handsome mansion, in the old style, with a stuccoed front, and com- manding a pleasant prospect over the country. It is the seat of the Kev. Craven Orde. The parsonage-house is an attractive building, agreeably situate. GREEN STREET, a hamlet of the parish of East Ham, Essex, situate about a mile from the church of that place, is noted for a fine old mansion, called Green Street House J which, it is stated, was formerly the occasional residence of King Henry VIII., and Anna Boleyne. The mansion is the property of William Morley, Esq., who repaired the tower about 40 years ago, which accounts for its comparatively modern appearance. The building is supposed to have been erected about 300 years, an opinion which singularly coincides with an anecdote related by Mr. Morley, in a communication to the Gentleman's Magazine the substance of which is, that Anna Boleyne was betrothed to a young nobleman who died ; about 10 months after his death, the king demanded her hand ; she, as was the custom, requested to complete the twelvemonth of mourning for her lover, to which Henry agreed, and for her amusement built the tower in question, from which she had a fine view of the Thames from * Vol. 9i,vt. 1, page 219. B 13 3 282 GREENWICH. Greenwich to below Gravesend. The room in the third story of the tower was formerly hung with leather, richly decorated wuth gold, which Mr. Morley's predecessor avariciously, almost wickedly, burnt, to collect the gold, which was sold for 30/. The lead from the roof was also sold, which Mr. Morley has now covered with copper. A letter, in the handwriting of King Henry VIII., dated from Green- street, and preserved either at Oxford, Cambridge, or in the British Museum, is a proof that the monarch was at least once here ; and, it is said, that Anna Boleyne was carried from this place to the Tower of London. GREENWICH, a large town in Kent, 5 miles E.S.E. from London, particularly noted for its Royal Hospital for seamen, and its Park. It is situate on the Thames, and its streets, though irregular, contain many handsome houses, inhabited by persons of high respectability. The church is a handsome stone fabric, the interior of which is constructed in the Grecian style : it contains three portraits of sovereigns, and a curious painting on board, representing a monumental effigy of Queen Eliza- beth. It has a very fine organ, with spacious galleries, which, with the pulpit and pews, are of wainscot ; the altar-piece is much admired ; each of its sides is formed by three columns of the Corinthian order, fluted, disposed in the form of a triangle, and supporting a triangular enta- blature. Within these 20 years, a handsome iron bridge has been erected over Deptford Creek (which was previously passed in boats), and a new road made from it into Green- wich. The new Greenwich Kailroad reaches to this point j for an account of wiiich undertaking, see the next article. The ferry for carriages, horses, &c., between Greenwich and the Isle of Dogs, is of about the same date as the Creek-bridge. The communication between Greenwich and the metropolis has been greatly facili- tated within these few years, both by land and water. GREENWICH. 283 Several steam-boats now ply daily, between Greenwich, London-bridge, and Hungerford-stairs, at the charge of 9d, each person ; several passage-boats, at 6d. each person, go hence to the Tower, provided with awnings, &c. ; and omnibuses and stages start every half hour, either for Gracechurch-street or Charing-cross. Among the charitable foundations are two colleges for poor people ; one founded by Lambarde, the Kentish anti- quary : and the other by Henry Howard, Earl of North- ampton. The latter edifice was rebuilt in 1819. Here are also several almshouses and charitable schools. In 1557, two burgesses were returned to parliament for this town ; and assizes were holden here in the 1st, 4th, and 5th years of Elizabeth. Greenwich has been the re- sidence of royalty, and of many noble and literary cha- racters. It was the frequent residence of Edward IV. (whose son, Richard, Duke of York, was here married to Anne Mowbray, daughter of the Duke of Norfolk), of Henry VII., Henry VIII., Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., and Charles II. In 1737, Dr. Johnson lodged in this town, and composed great part of his tragedy of " Irene" whilst w^alking in the park. At Greenwich were buried, Thomas Tally s, father of the church style of music ; Lambarde, the topographer, who wrote his Perambu- lation of Kent," during his occupancy of Westcombe Park, in this parish ; Samuel Squire, Bishop of St. David's, who was vicar of this place ; Kobert Newcourt, author of Repertorium Londinense General Wolfe, the conqueror of Quebec ; Lavinia, Duchess of Bolton, the original Polly Peachum ; and the Rev. Nicholas Tindal, the translator and continuator of Rapin. In this town died the brave naval officers, Sir Richard Stainer, 1662, Sir John Lawson, 1665, and Sir John Leake, 1720 ; and six astronomers-royal, viz. Flamstead (1719), Hallev, Bradlej^, Bliss, Maskelyne, and Pond (1836). William Courtenay, Earl of Devonshire, resided here, after his release from prison by Henrj^ VIII., till Jus :284 (iREEiWVlClI. death in 1512. Bishop Gastrell lived here before his pro- motion to the see of Chester, in 1714. Greenwich was the birth-place of Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth: and here Edward VI. died. A palace erected here, by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, who named it Placentia, was enlarged by Henry VII., and completed by Henry VIII. ; but being afterwards suffered to run to ruin, was pulled down by Charles II., who began a magnificent edifice, and lived to see the first wing, which now forms a part of Greenwich Hospital, finished. He also enlarged the Park, walled it round, planted it, and erected a Royal Observatory^ on the top of the hill, * The first stone of this Observatory was laid by Flamstead, on the 10th of August, 1675. It stands 160 feet above low-water mark, and consists principally of 2 separate buildings : the first contains 3 rooms on the ground-floor, viz., the transit-room, toward the east; the quadrant-room, toward the west ; and the assistant's sitting and calculating-room, in the middle; above which is his bed-room: the latter being furnished with sli ding-shutters in the roof. In the transit- room is an 8-feet transit-instrument, with an axis of 5 feet, resting on 2 piers of stone : this was made by Bird, but has been much im- proved by Dolland, Troughton, and others : near it is a curious transit- clock, made by Graham, but greatly improved by Earnshaw. The quadrant-room has a stone pier in the middle, running north and south, having on its east face a mural-quadrant, of 8 feet radius, made by Bird, in 1749, by which observations are made on the southern quarter of the meridian, through an opening in the roof, 5 feet wide, produced by means of two sliding-shutters ; on its west face is another 8-feet mural -quadrant, with an iron frame, and an arch of brass, made by Graham, in 1725 : this is applied to the north quarter of the meridian. In the same apartment is the famous zenith- sector, 12 feet in length, with which Dr. Bradley, at Wanstead, and at Kew, made those observations which led to the discovery of the aber- ration and nutation : here also is Dr. Hooke's reflecting-telescope, and 5 telescopes by Harrison. On the south side of this room is a small building, for observing the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, occultations, &c., with sliding-shutters at the roof and sides, to view any portion of the hemisphere; this contains a 40-inch achromatic, by Mr. Jolua GREENWICH. 285 for the use of the celebrated Flamstead, whose name the hill retains. He likewise furnished it with mathematical instruments for astronomical observations, and a deep drj well for observing the stars in the day-time. The instru- ments have been very much improved, and are supposed to be the best in Europe. From the meridian of Greenwich, all English astronomers make their calculations. At the entrance of the Park stands the Naval Asylamy having its centre formed by the building formerly called Pelham House, which was originally built for the ranger of the Park J 2 wings have been added, each connected with the centre by an elegant colonnade. This institution is destined to receive the children of seamen belonging to the royal navy, who are clothed and supported, and re- ceive such an education as may render them useful mem- bers of society. When at a proper age, the boys are to be sent to sea, unless they dislike it, in which case they will Dolland, with a triple object-glass, and a 5-feet achromatic, by John and Peter Dolland, his sons : here, likewise, are a 2-feet reflecting- telescope, and a 6-feet reflector, by Dr. Herschell. The lower part of the house serves merely for habitation ; but above is a large octagonal-room, which, being now seldom wanted for astronomical purposes, is used as a repository for such instruments as are too large to be generally employed in the apartments first de- scribed, or for old instruments, which modern improvements have superseded. Among the former, is a most excellent 10-feet achro- matic, by Dolland, and a 6-feet reflector, by Short ; with a clock to be used with them. Here, likewise, is the library, which is stored with scarce and curious old astronomical works, including Dr. Ualley's original observations, and Captain Cook's Journals. Good busts of Flamstead and Newton, on pedestals, ornament this apartment ; and in one corner is a dark narrow staircase, leading to the leads above whence the prospect is uncommonly grand ; and to render the plea- sure more complete, there is, in the western turret, a Camera Obscura, by which all the surrounding objects, both moveable and immoveable, are beautifully represented in their own natural colours, on a concave table of plaster of Paris, 286 GREENWICH. be bound out apprentices ; and the girls apprenticed, or sent into the service of respectable families. Such dis- abled seamen as maj have received a good education, are here employed as assistants. Greenwich Park, which is well stocked with deer and timber, affords as much variety in proportion to its size as any in the kingdom ; but the views from the Observatory, and the One-tree-Hill, are beautiful beyond imagination, particularly the former. The eye glances over a prodigious expanse. To the right is seen the spacious parish of Stepney, including the hamlet of Poplar, Limehouse, and Blackvvall, with their capacious new-erected docks, &c. Beyond these extend the villages of Stratford, Bow, Hackney, Newington, and Islington, bounded in the distance by the steep acclivities of Hampstead and Highgate. To the left rise the Surrey- hills, with the villages of Peckham, Camberwell, Norwood, Dulwich, and so on to Clapham and Wimbledon. In the middle of the picture, surrounded by a denser atmosphere, and stretched out in all its immensity and grandeur, is the huge capital itself, apparently hemmed in by a forest of masts, and terminated by the mist of the indistinct country on the other side. At the summit of Maize Hill, which commands a fine view over London, are Vanbrugh Fields, in which are several houses, built by the celebrated Sir John Yun^ brugh, one of which is in imitation, it is said, of part of the late Bastile at Paris, in which he was confined for some time. It is the residence of — Stokes, Esq. Not far from it are some other houses in the same style 3 one of these was the seat of the late Lord Tyrawley. GREENWICH HOSPITAL was founded in 1604, by King W^illiam and Queen Mary, for the use of disabled English seamen and their children, and for the widows and children of such as were slain at sea. The king appointed commissioners for the better carrying on his intentions, and desired the assistance of his good subjects, as the necessity of his affairs did not permit him GREEN%VICH. 28f to advance so considerable a sum towards this work as he desired. In conformity to this request, many benefactions were made in that and the succeeding reigns to this noble charity, which, according to the tablets hung up at the entrance of the hall, amounted to 58,209/. ; and afterwards the forfeited estate of the Earl of Derwentwater, in 17 15, amounting to 6,000/. per annum, was given by parliament to this hospital. The revenues of this estate have been immensely increased of late years. The hospital is erected on the south bank of the Thames, (where there is a terrace, 865 feet in length), and consists of four distinct piles of building, called King Charles's, Queen Anne'*s, King William's, and Queen Mary's. The intei-val between the two most northern buildings, King Charles's and Queen Anne's, forms the grand square, which is about 273 feet wide. In the centre of the grand square is a fine statue of George II., by Kysbrach, sculptured out of a single block of white marble, which weighed 11 tons, and was taken from the French by Sir George Kooke, On each side is a suitable inscription in Latin. King Charles's building is on the west side of the square, lie resided in the east part of it, which was erected by Webb, after a design by Inigo Jones : it is of Portland stone, and rusticated. In the middle is a tetra- style portico of the Corinthian order. At each end is a pavilion, formed by four corresponding pilasters, and sur- mounted by an attic order, with balustrade, pediment, &c. Queen Anne's building, opposite, is in a corresponding style. In the north front of these two buildings, the pedi- ments are supported by ranges of coupled Corinthian columns, and the same order is continued in pilasters along the building. The proj ection of the entablatures gives an agreeable diversity of light and shade. In the centre of each part, between these ranges of Corinthian columns, is the door of the Doric order, adorned above with a tablet ^88 GREENWICH. and pediment. Within the height of these lofty columns are two series of windows, enlightening two floors. The undermost, which are the smallest, have rustic cases, crowned with pediments ; the upper series, which are large and loftj, are adorned with the orders and with upright pointed pediments. Over these is an attic story : the en- tablature of the Corinthian columns and pilasters supports a regular attic course ; the pilasters of this order rise over every column and pilaster of the Corinthian below, between which the windows are regularly disposed ; and the top is surmounted by a balustrade. The western side of King- Charles's building was rebuilt with Portland stone, between the years 1811 and 1814, in the Corinthian order; the central part being decorated with six columns, supporting an attic, including a large panel for sculpture. To the south of these are the other piles of building, with a colonnade adjoining to each. These colonnades are 115 feet asunder, and are composed of 300 duplicated Doric columns and pilasters of Portland stone, 20 feet high, with an entablature and balustrade. Each of them is 347 feet long, having a return pavilion at the end, 70 feet long. Of the two south buildings, that on the east side is Queen IMary's. In this is the chapel, th« interior and roof of which, having been destroyed by fire in 1779, were restored in the most beautiful style of Grecian architecture, from the designs of the late Mr. James Stuart, commonly called Athenian Stuart." Immediately before the entrance of this chapel, is an oc- tangular vestibule, in which are four niches, containing the statues of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Meekness, in Coade's artificial stone, from designs by West. From this vestibule w-e ascend, by a flight of 14 steps, to the chapel, which is 111 feet long, and 52 broad, and capable of conveniently accommodating 1,000 pensioners, nurses, and boys, exclu- sive of pews for the directors, and for the several officers. GREENVVIcn, 289 «iider-officers, &:c. Over the portal, or great door of the chapel, is this inscription, in letters of gold : — ** Let them give thanks whom the Lord hath redeemed, and de- livered from the hand of the enemy." — Psalm evil. The portal consists of an architrave, frieze, and cornice, of statuary marhle, the jambs of which are 12 feet high, in one piece, and enriched with excellent sculpture. The frieze is the work of Bacon, and consists of the figures of tw^o angels, with festoons, supporting the sacred Writings, in the leaves of which is the following inscription : — The law was given by Moses : But grace and truth came by Jesus Christ ! The great folding- doors are of mahogany, highly en- riched, and the whole composition of this portal is not to be paralleled in this, or perhaps in any other country. Within this entrance is a portico of six fluted marble co- lumns, 15 feet high. The capitals and bases are Ionic. The columns support the organ-gallery, and are crowned with an entablature and balustrade. On the tablet in the front of this gallery, is a basso-relievo, representing the figures of angels sounding the harp • on the pedestals on each side, are ornaments consisting of trumpets, &c., and on the tablet between is this inscription, in letters of gold :— Praise him with the sound of the trumpet! Praise him with stringed instruments and organs ! In this gallery is a fine organ, and on each side are two grand columns ; their shafts are of scagliola, in imitation of Sienna marble, by Richter, and their capitals and bases of statuary marble. At the opposite end of the chapel are four others of the same sort, w^hich support the arched ceiling and roof. These columns are of the Corinthian order, and, with their pedestals, are 28 feet high. On the sides of the chapel, between the upper and lower vange of windows, are the galleries, in which are pews for c c 290 GREENWICH. the officers and their families : those of the governor and lieutenant-governor, which are opposite each other, are distinguished by the naval crown, and other suitable in- signia. Underneath these galleries, and the cantalivers which support them, are ranges of fluted pilasters. The cantalivers are decorated with antique foliage ; the enta- blature over the pilasters with marine ornaments ; the in- terval between with festoons, &c., and the pedestals of the balustrade, in the front of the galleries, with tridents and wreaths. The tablets in the middle of each balustrade contain the hospital's arms, and the frieze below is carved with foliage in the Greek mode. Over the lower range of windows are paintings in chiaro oscuro, representing some of the principal events in the life of our Saviour, which are accompanied with ornaments of candelabra and fes- toons. Above the galleries is a richly-carved stone fascia, on which stands a range of pilasters of the Composite mode, their shafts being of scagliola, corresponding with those of the eight great columns, and jointly with them appearing to support the epistylium which surrounds the whole chapel. This epistylium is enriched with angels, bearing festoons of oak-leaves, dolphins, shells, and other applicable orna- ments. From this rises the curved ceiling, which is divided into compartments, and enriched with foliage, &c., in the antique style. Between the upper pilasters are recesses, in which are painted, in chiaro oscuro, the Apos- tles and Evangelists. At each end of the galleries are concave recesses, the coves of which are ornamented with coffers and flowers carved in stone : in these recesses are the doors of entrance into the galleries, decorated with enriched pilasters and entablatures, and a group of ornaments, consisting of the naval crown, wreaths of laurel, and tridents. Above the doors are circular recesses, containing paintings in chiaro oscuro, of the prophets Isaiah, Jeremiah, Moses, and David, GREENWICH. 291 The communion-table is a semi-oval slab of statuary marble, nearly eight feet long. The ascent to it is by three steps of black marble, on which is fixed an ornamental railing, representing festoons of ears of corn, and vine foliage. This table is supported by six cherubim, standing on a v^^hite marble step of the same dimensions. Above is a magnifi- cent painting by West, in a superb carved and gilt frame, representing the Preservation of St. Paul from Shipwreck, on the island of Melita. This picture is 25 feet high, and 14 wide, and consists of three principal groups. The first, at the lower part, repre- sents the mariners and prisoners bringing on shore the articles which have been preserved from the wreck : near' these is an elegant figure, supposed to be a Roman lady, clasping with affection an urn, containing the ashes of her deceased husband, who had fallen in the wars of Judea- Before her is an aged infirm man, who, being unable to assist himself, is carried in the arms of two robust young men. In the middle of the piece is the principal group, consisting of St. Paul, shaking into the fire the viper that had fastened on his hand, the brethren who accompanied him, his friend the centurion, and a band of Roman sol- diers. The figures on the summit of the rocks form the third group, and consist of tlie hospitable islanders, lower- ing down fuel and other necessaries for the relief of the sufferers. The sea and wrecked ship appear in the back- ground. On either side of the arch, which surmounts the top of this picture, are angels of statuary marble, by Bacon ; one bearing the cross, the other the emblems of the eucharist. Above (in the segment between the great cornice and ceil- ing) is a painting of the Ascension, designed by West, and executed by Rebecca, in chiaro oscuro. The middle of the aisle, and the space round the organ- gallery, are ornamentally paved with black and white marble, having, in the centre, an anchor and seaman's compass. 292 (JREEjNVVKII. The pulpit is circular, supported by six ilutecl columns of lime-tree, with an entablature above, richly carved. In the six inter-columniations are the following alto-relievos, from the Acts of the Apostles, after designs by West: The Conversion of St. Paul ; Cornelius's Vision ; Peter released from Prison by the Angel ; Elymas struck blind ; Paul preaching at Athens ; and Paul before Felix. The reader's desk is square, with columns at the four corners, and the entablature similar to those of the pulpit : in the inter-columniations are alto-relievos of the prophets .Daniel, Micah, Zechariah, and Malachi, after designs by West. The following paintings, in cbiaro oscuro, relating to our Saviour's history, are placed over the lower windows. The first four of the series, painted by De Bruyn, are at the east end of the south side of the chapel, and represent the Nativity ; the Angels appearing to the Shepherds j the Magi worshipping ; the Flight into Egypt. The four which follow on the same side are by Catton, and repre- sent St. John baptizing ; the calling of St. Peter and St. Andrew ; our Saviour preaching from a Ship to the people on shore ; the stilling of the Tempest. The four at the west end of the north side, are by Milbourne, and represent our Saviour walking on the sea, and saving Peter from sinking ; the Blind Man cured ; Lazarus raised from the Dead ; the Transfiguration. The next four, on the same side, are by Rebecca, and represent the Lord's Supper ; our Saviour carried before Pilate ; the Crucifixion j the Ivesurrection. The Apostles and Evangelists in the recesses between the upper windows, and the four Prophets in the circles above the gallery- doors, are after the designs of West, by llebecca. King William's building, opposite to Queen Mary's, contains the great hall, which is lOo feet long, 56 wide, and 50 high. It was painted by Sir James Thornhill. In the cupola of the vestibule, is a compass, with its proper GREENWICH. 293 points duly bearing ; in the covings are the four winds, in alto-relievo. Eurus, the East Wind, rising out of the east, with a lighted torch in his right hand, as bringing light to the earth, seems, with his left hand, to push the morning-star out of the firmament ; the demi-figures and boys which form the group, showing the morning dew that falls before him. Auster, the South Wind, his wings dropping water, is pressing forth rain from a bag, the little boys near him throwing about thunder and lightning. Zephyrus, the West Wind, is accompanied by little Zephyrs, with baskets of flowers, scattering them around ; the figure playing on the flute denotes the pleasure of the spring. Boreas, the North Wind, his dragon's wings de- noting his fury ; his boisterous companions flinging about hail-stones, snow, &c. Over the three doors are large oval tables, with the names, in gold letters, of such bene- factors as have given 100^. or upward, toward the building ; among the most considerable of which were King William, who gave 19,500/. ; Queen Anne, 6,472/. ; John de la Fontain, Esq. 2,000?. ; Robert Osbolston, Esq., 20,000/., together with his unexpired grant of the North and South Foreland Light Houses, which grant has since been re- newed for 99 years ; Sir John Cropley, and Mr. Evelyn, 2,000/. each; John Evelyn, Esq., 1,000/. Each table is attended by two charity-boys, as if carved in white marble, sitting on great corbels, pointing to the figure of Charitj^, in a niche. This vestibule leads into the saloon or grand hall, which is ornamented on the south side by a range of Corinthian pilasters (having two rows of windows between them) standing on a basement, and supporting a rich entablature. On the ceiling are the portraits of King William and Queen Mary, sitting on a throne, under a great pavilion, and sur- rounded by the cardinal virtues, and many other figures, both allegorical and representative. The other decorations are correspondent to the magnificence of the ceiling. From this saloon w0 ascend into the upper hall, the ceiling and 294 (;R£E?>\ViCiI sides of which are also adorned with different paintings. In the centre of the ceiling, are represented Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark, with emblematical figures. In the four corners are the arms of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, between which are the four quarters of the world, witli the emblems and productions of each. On the left hand is a painting, in imitation of basso- relievo, representing the landing of the Prince of Orange. Over the chimney is the landing of George I , at Green- wich. At the further end, are the portraits of George I. and his family, with many emblematical figures ; among which the painter has introduced his own portrait • and on the right and left of the entrance, are paintings repre- senting the Public Weal and Public Safety. This celebrated work was begun in 1708, and completed in 1727. It cost 6,685/., at the rate of SL per yard for the ceiling, and 17. per yard for the sides. In the Upper Hall is kept the Funeral Car, in which the remains of the im- mortal Nelson were conveyed to St. Paul's Cathedral, on the 9th of January, 1806, On the frieze round the saloon is the following inscription : — " Pietas augusta ut habitent secure et publice alantur, que publicae securitati invigi- larunt, regia Grenovici Mariae auspiciis sublevandus nautis destinat a regnantibus Gulielmo et Maria, MDCXCIV.'* That those w^ho have watched for the security of the public might live securely, and be maintained at the public charge, the palace at Greenwich, under the auspices of Mary, was destined for the relief of seamen, in the reign of William and Mary, 1694." Out of all that is given for showing the hall, only Sd. in the pound is allowed to the person w^ho shows it ; the rest makes a fund towards the maintenance of the boys, the sons of slain or disabled mariners ; who are provided for, and taught such a share of mathematical learning as may fit them for the sea-service. King Wilham's building, and Queen ]Mary*s, are each surmounted by a dome, the tambour of which is f ormed by GREENWICH. 295 a circle of columns duplicated, of the Corinthian order, with four projecting' groups of columns at the quoins. The attic above is a circle without breaks, covered with the dome, and terminated by a turret. In the tympanum of the eastern pediment, within the square formed by King William's building, is a large emblematical representation of the Death of Lord Nelson, in alto-relievo, designed by B. West, and modelled by him and Joseph Panzetta, in artificial stone, at Coade and Sealy's manufactory, in 1812. This is the first of a series of compositions, commemorative of great naval actions, which are purposed to be affixed in the several vacant pediments of Greenwich Hospital. In the Description," published at the hospital, the following account is given of the above design : — " In the centre is placed Britannia resting upon a rock, washed by the ocean, and receiving the dead body of Nel- son, delivered to her, at the command of Neptune, by one of the attendant Tritons ; Victor}^, with her right hand, supports the body of the hero, and, with her left, resigns to Britannia the Trident of the God, in token of the dominion of the Sea. Behind Neptune, who is seated in his shell, drawn by sea-horses, is seen a British sailor, announcing Trafalgar,'^ as the scene of the hero's death. On the left hand of Britannia is represented a Naval Genius, re- cording the victories of the Nile and Copenhagen ; before whom is a British Lion, holding in his paws a tablet, in- scribed Nelson's CXXII. Battles." Adjoining to these are the sister-kingdoms, England, Scotland, and Ireland, with their appropriate emblems, the rose, thistle, and shamrock, reclining affectionately on each other, and over- come by feelings of the deepest sorrow. At one extremity of the pediment are represented various naval implements of war ; the effects of which are shown at the other ex- tremity, in the total destruction of the enemy's fleet at Trafalgar." In King Charles's building, adjoining to the governor's apartment, is the council- room, in which are the following 296 GREENWICH. portraits :—viz. George II., by Shackleton ; King William, Kneller 3 Queen Mary, ditto ; the late Earl of Sandwich, by Gainsborough ; Edward, first Earl of Sandwich, Lely ; Viscount Torrington, a whole length, Davison ; Vice- admiral Haddock ; Robert Osbolston, Esq., a copy by Dugard ; Admiral Sir John Jennings, Richardson ; Cap- tain Clements, Greenhill ; Viscount Hood ; and the head of a venerable old man, said to have been the first pensioner admitted into this hospital ; his name was John Worley, he was a native of Wales, and admitted into the hospital in 1704-5 : he died in 1721, aged 97. Here are likewise various sea-pieces ; some very curious sketches for the paintings of the great hall, and several original designs by W^est, for the chiaro oscuro paintings in the chapel. Jn the anti-chamber to the council-room is a bust of Lord Hawke ; a half-length of Admiral Sir J. Norris, and of Cap- tain Lushington ; two large sea-engagements by Harman, representing the brave exploits of his ancestor. Captain Thomas Harman, who, in the Tiger frigate, beat off eight Dutch privateers, w^hile conducting a fleet of colliers into the river Thames, and on another occasion, in the same frigate, fought and captured a Dutch man of war. In the governor's hall and dining-room are portraits of Sir E. Hughes, K. B. ; Sir Charles Saunders, Knt., by Brompton ; Captain John Gell, Sir J. Reynolds ; and Lord Anson ; besides various sea-pieces representing the engagements between the Admirals Suffrein and Hughes, in the East Indies, in 1782 • and six small pictures, representing the loss of the Luxembourg galley, commanded by William Kellaway, and the subsequent distresses of part of her crew : this vessel was burnt on her passage from Jamaica, in 1727. The drawing-room is superbly furnished, and near the entrance is an ornamental vase, designed and executed by Collins, in memory of Lord Nelson. Near the hospital are the infirmary and the school, two commodious biick buildings, designed by the late Mr. Stuart • and not far from the infiimary is a low but exten- GREENWICH. 297 sive neat brick-building', which has been recently erected for the reception of such patients as are helpless. There are 2,710 old or disabled seamen in this hos- pital, besides 32,000 out-pensioners, each receiving from 41. lis. 3d, to 271, 7s, Gd., according to their respective classes, annually ; and 200 boys, the sons of seamen, are instructed in navigation, and bred up for the service of the royal navy. Each of the mariners has a weekly allowance of seven loaves, weighing 16 ounces each ; three pounds of, beef, two of mutton, a pint of peas, a pound and a quarter of cheese, two ounces of butter, 14 quarts of beer, and Is. tobacco-money : the tobacco-money of the boat- swain is 2s. 6d. a week each ; that of the mates 1*. 6d, ; and that of the other officers in proportion to their rank : besides which, each common pensioner receives, once in two years, a suit of blue, a hat, three pairs of stockings, four pairs of shoes, five neckcloths, four shirts, two nights- caps, and a great coat, if necessary. This hospital is governed by 24 directors, composed of the nobility and great officers of state. The governor and sub-officers are remunerated by suitable salaries. The number of residents here, including a great number of nurses, who must all be widows of seamen, amount to about 3,500. The revenues of the hospital arise from the payment of 6d. per month made by all seamen and mariners, whether belonging to the royal navy, or the merchants' service ; from the duties arising from the North and South Foreland lighthouses ; from the half-pay of several of the officers of the hospital ; from the salaries, with the value of provi- sions, &c,, of the two chaplains of Woolwich and Deptford Dock-yards ; from the rents and profits of the Derwent- water estates, including lead-mines, which in the years 1766-7^ and 8, produced the vast sum of 170,030Z. ; from the rents of the market at Greenwich, and from houses there and in London j from interest of money vested in the 29a GREENWICH. funds ; from fines for fisliing* in the river Thames, with un- lawful nets, and other offences ; and from the forfeited and unclaimed shares of prize and hountj-money, which are paid over to the Chest." On the east side of the hos- pital is a plain building, principally of brick, containing the Civil Offices, which was began in 1813, and finished in 1815. It is surrounded hy a commodious corridor and court-yard, for the accommodation of the seamen and others having business here ; and contains the offices for the trea- surer, secretary, and steward, with store-rooms, &c., and those of the cheque and prize- department, the paymaster of the out-pensions, and the office of works. In ancient times, the site of this extensive building was occupied by a Franciscan monastery, founded by Edward IV. : here Catherine of Arragon, first wife of Henry VIII., w^as accustomed to rise at midnight, and join in their de- votions J and she even appointed John Forrest, one of the monks, to be her confessor. Her partiality to the order induced a grateful return, and they became strenuous ad- vocates in her cause : this conduct so provoked the im- perious Henry, that he suppressed the whole Franciscan order throughout the kingdom. In more modern times, Greenwich was distinguished for being the landing-place of the Princess Augusta of Sax- Gotha, the mother of King George III.; and the first in- terview between that lady and Frederick Prince of Wales, her destined husband, took place in the balcony of the Ranger's Lodge, fronting the Park. But the most memorable event of this description, was the landing of the remains of the " ever-to-be-lamented" Nelson, who greatly fell in the battle off Trafalgar, on the 21st of Oct, 1805. His body was brought to England, and, being decreed a public funeral, was ordered to be laid in state in the hall at Greenwich Hospital, where, during three days, the 5th, 6th, and 7th of January, the view of his honoured bier drew forth the heartfelt sigh from an immense multitude of his country- GREENWICH. 299 men. On the 8th of January, the body was conveyed, in a solemn procession by water, to the Admiralty, preparatory to its interment in St. Paul's Cathedral; where, on the following day, it was deposited with every solemnity and attention in the power of a grateful nation to bestow. Princes of the blood royal, the chief officers of state, and a great number of prelates, nobility, naval officers, &c., accompanied the procession from the Admiralty; together with a military force of nearly 8,000 men. The remains were carried to the cathedral on a splendid funeral car, which was afterwards presented by the Lord Chamberlain (the Earl of Dartmouth) to Greenwich Hospital ; *' there to remain as a permanent memorial of the gratitude a ge- nerous nation is ever willing to show to those heroes who have fallen gloriously in its naval service." The New Church of Greenwich, which is situated a little to the south of the Hospital, between it and the Park, is a handsome building in the Grecian style of architecture, dedicated to St. Mary, and erected by means of a grant from the Parliamentary Commissioners, at an expense of 11,000/. It was begun in 1823, from designs by Mr. Basevi, and opened for public service in 1825. The body of the building is of white Suffolk brick with stone dressings, but the front is of stone. The portico consists of four Ionic pillars, above which rises a square stone tower of two stories. The inte- rior is neat, and there is an altar-piece painted by Richter, representing our Saviour giving sight to the blind. This church contains 1713 sittings, 645 of which are set apart for the accommodation of the poor. The Greenwich Railroad was the first structure of the kind completed in the immediate neighbourhood of the metro- polis. It commences in a short Macadamized street, called Duke-street, leading out of Tooley-street, Southwark, near the Surrey side of London Bridge. The railway is entered by handsome double gates, constructed of iron, to which gates are annexed a pay and check-bar, &c. Adjoining is a spacious and well-constructed edifice, designed for boards' 300 GRE — GRO. room, offices, &c., for the Greenwich Railway Company, and some others. On the right of Duke-street is the new wing of St. Thomas's Hospital, a very beautiful structure, which catches the eye on the left, on crossing London Bridge, High-street, Southwark, passing between the western end of the hospital and the ancient church of St. Saviour's. The whole railway is built on brick arches, and extends nearly in a straight line. The whole distance from London to Greenwich is about 3J miles. The elevation of the viaduct from the ground is 22 feet ; but, to prevent accidents, parapets, breast-high, run from end to end. In these parapets, which are of brick-work, two feet thick, are stationed, at given districts, small sentry- boxes, for signal men and others. The breadth of the rail- way, between the parapets is 22 feet. The trains starting from London take the right-hand road, and those coming from Deptford keep the left. The carriages are of various kinds, some being close omnibuses, and others, carriages open at the sides but close at each end, and a third sort open all round. From the Deptford station on the road, a branch is to extend to the proposed new Deptford Pier, so that passen- gers by steam-boats may, by landing or embarking here, avoid the dangers and delays of the " Pool." There is also a branch from the Croydon Railroad, and the junction of other branches is under consideration. The Greenwich Railroad Company was incorporated in 1833. Its projector was Lieut.-Col. Landmann, formerly of the Royal Engineers. This gentleman is now the prin- cipal engineer of the company, and Mr. Mcintosh is the architect. The original shares were 20,000 in number, at 20i. each, and these were speedily disposed of. GROVE (The) or T/ie Plantation^ near Great Stanmore, Middlesex, is the seat of Charles Poole, Esq. GROVE (The) near Watford, Herts, is the seat of the Earl of Clarendon. The mansion is an irregular structure of brick, standing on the west side of the river Gade, GIlO— IIAC. 301 winch flows through the grounds in a divided stieani. The Grand Junction Canal also crosses the land, and adds beauty to the scenery. Over it is a handsome bridge. The park is about 5 miles in circumference, and well diver- sified. In the mansion are some choice portraits. GROVES, or GROVE HOUSE, a manorial estate in the parish of South Okendon, Essex, of great antiquity, having been held by Hugh de On, in the time of Henry II. In the reign of Edward I., it was conveyed to Sir William de Bruyn, w^hose descendants enjoyed it for some gene^ rations. It is now the seat of J. H. Stewart, Esq. HACKNEY, Middlesex, a large and populous village, 2 miles N.E. from London. The parish has several ham- lets, among which are Upper and Lower Clapton, on the north ; Dalston, Shacklewell, and Kingsland on the west ; and Homerton on the east. The ancient church was taken down in the year 1798. The new church, on a much larger scale, was consecrated July 13, 1799. The steeple, however, and the entrance porticos, of which there are five, were not built till the years 1812 and 1813. The whole was erected from the designs and under the direction of Mr. Spiller. The plan is peculiar : it forms an exact cross ; and the projecting face of each elevation is ter- minated by a triangular pediment, the cornice of which connects with that of the general roof. The windows and doors are disposed in arched recesses. A spacious gallery, supported by Doric columns, extends along the west, north, and south sides ; and in the former, is a fine-toned organ. The east window is enriched with painted glass. Some of the old monuments have been replaced here ; among them is a good bust of David Doulben, who was some time vicar of this parish, and afterwards Bishop of Bangor ; he died in 1633. In Well-street, is a new and handsome chapel of ease, called St. John's chapel, which was built by subscription, and consecrated in 1810. In Hackney parish, which in- cludes a circumference of more than 11 miles, are numer- D D 302 HAD — HAI. ous dissenting meeting-houses, namelj, for Independents (four), Calvinists, Wesleyans, Baptists, Unitarians, and others. HADLEY, a village in Middlesex, three quarters of a mile N.E. of Barnet, is celebrated for its ancient church of flint, with a tower- turret, on the top of which was anciently a fire-beacon. From the summit of this church, the view of Essex, over the trees, is surprisingly beautiful. In this village the accomplished and amiable Mrs. Chapone died in 1801, and the father of Mr, Baron Garrow in 1805. HAGGERSTONE, a hamlet to the parish of Hackney, Middlesex, much built on of late years, and crowded with factories of various kinds. A new church, in the modern Gothic style, has been lately supplied. The place is of considerable antiquity : the more recent portion (run up within these 30 years) being generally called New Nagger- stone. The celebrated astronomer Halley, resided here ; and it is said that King John had a palace in the old ham- let, the name of which is thought to be of Roman origin. HAILEYBURY COLLEGE, between Hoddesdon and Hertford, was erected on the site of a seat formerly be- longing to W.Walker, Esq., and designed for the education of youths for various offices in the civil departments in the East-India Company's service. The great principle on which the foundation was erected, was to provide a supply of persons properly qualified to perform the various im- portant duties of the civil service in India, Candidates for admission must be at least 16 years of age, possessing a com- petent knowledge of at least two of the Latin classics, the easier parts of the Greek Testament, and the principles of grammar, the common rules of arithmetic, with vulgar and decimal fractions. Each student pays 100 guineas per an- num, half-yearly, besides the expense ofbooks and stationery. He must also be provided with proper academical habits, tea equipage, &c., and, on leaving the college, pay 10 guineas for the use of the philosophical apparatus and library. The education is of the first oif^s: comprising HAL — HAM, 303 mathematics and natural philosophy, history, and poli- tical economy, general polity, and the laws of Eng- land, the Arabic, Persian, and Hindostanee languages, Hindoo and Asiatic literature, Persian and other writing, with classical and general literature, drawing, &c. Terms are kept here ; the first, from the 19th of January to the end of May ; the second from the 27th of July to the 6th of December, At the close of every term, a general exa- mination is made into the acquirements of the students, in presence of a deputation of the Court of Directors of the East-India Company : at the same time prizes are dis- tributed, and the best qualified students are appointed to proceed to the different presidencies in India. By an act of parliament made in the 53d George III., no person cau be sent to any of the presidencies in the capacity of a writer, unless he has been entered, and resided at this college, during four terms. The College School, though patronized by the company, and designed as introductory to the college, is also open to the public at large. Each student above the age of ten years, must pay seventy guineas per annum, to the head- master ; or if under that age, fifty guineas per annum : for which sums, without any additional charge, instructions are given in the Greek, Latin, and the modern languages j writing, arithmetic, mathematics, drawing, and dancing. A few pupils of a more advanced age, pay one hundred guineas per annum, having^some superior accommodations. H ALSTED PLACE, Kent, 5 miles north of Sevenoaks, is the seat of Mr. Alderman Atkins. HAM, Surrey, a hamlet to the parish of Kingston, 1^ mile on the London side of that town, and lying on the banks of the Thames, in a very agreeable situation ; con- taining, and surrounded by, many handsome seats. Ham Common is adorned with numerous elegant seats and plea- sant residences ; among others, here is the villa in which lived the Duchess of Queensbury, celebrated for her patronage of the poet Gay. The manor-house of Ham, 304 HAM. called Ham House, which is situate near the Thames, was built in the year 1610, and was intended, as it is said, for the residence of Henrj^ Prince of Wales. This handsome mansion was first erected by Sir Thomas Vavasour. In 1651, it came into possession of Sir Lionel ToUemache, in whose descendants, the Earls of Dysart, it is still vested. After the death of Sir Lionel, the house underwent great alterations, and many additions were made to it by his widow, on whom the peerage was first conferred ; but it is said to have been furnished at a very great expense, in the taste of that time, by Charles IL Here, as it is reported, the Cabal held their meeting, after this mansion came into the hands of the Earl, afterwards Duke of Lauderdale, by his marriage with the countess, in 1671. The ceilings are painted by Verrio, and the apartments ornamented with that massive magnificence that w^as then in fashion. The furniture is very rich, the very bellows and brushes in some of the rooms being made of solid silver, or of silver fiUagree. In the centre of the house is a large hall, sur- rounded with an open gallery. The balustrades of the grand staircase, which is remarkably spacious and sub- stantial, are of walnut-tree, and ornamented with military trophies. In the north drawing-room is a very large and beautiful cabinet of ivory, lined with cedar. On the west side of the house is a gallery, 92 feet in length, hung with portraits. In the closet adjoining the bed-chamber, which was the Duchess of Lauderdale's, still remains the great chair, in which, she used to sit and read ; it has a small desk fixed to it, and her cane hangs by the side. The mansion contains many fine pictures of the old masters, among which the works of Vaudeveldt and Wouvermans are conspicuous. Among the portraits are those of the Duke of Lauderdale and the Earl of Hamilton, in one picture, by Cornelius Jansen ; the Duke and Duchess, by Sir Peter Lely ; the Duke in his Garter robes, by tiie same ; Charles II., who was a visitor of this place ; Sir John Maitland, Chancellor of Scotland ; Sir HAM. 305 Henry Vane; William Murray, the first Earl of Dysart ; Catherine, his wife, a beautiful picture in water-colours, by Hoskins ; Sir Lionel Tollemache, first husband to the Duchess of Lauderdale ; James Stewart, Duke of Rich- mond, a very fine picture, by Vandyke ; the late Countess of Dysart, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; and many others deserving notice. Of the gardens, though fine, it has been remarked, that the very flowers are old-fashioned ; no American borders, no Chinese roses, none but flowers of the olden time, gay, formal knots of pinks and sweet peas, and larkspurs, and lilies and hollyhocks mixed with solid cabbage roses and round Dutch honeysuckles The building audits grounds repose under the shade of venerable antiquity. This house was the birth-place of that great statesman and general, John Duke of Argyle, who was grandson to the Duchess of Lauderdale. His brother Archibald, who succeeded him in his title, and was Lord Keeper of Scot- land, was also born here. Hume says, that, on the arrival of the Prince of Orange in London, James II. was ordered to retire to this house, but thinking himself unsafe so near the metropolis, he fled privately to France. Ham Lodge is the villa of Capt. Halliday, R.N., nearwhich are the seats of Sir E. Home, Bart., and General Forbes. HAM, an old mansion at Weybridge, Surrey, standing in a small park, at the confluence of the Wey and the Thames. It formerly belonged to the Howard family, and was granted to Catherine Sedley, mistress of James II., who created her Countess of Dorchester. She afterwards married the Earl of Portmore, from whose issue the pre- sent earl is descended. This house has been long unin- habited, and is consequently in a very ruinous state. Near it are many large cedars and firs, much broken, though one of the cedars is, perhaps, the largest in England, both in height and circumference. In one of the parlours are shown five portraits — the Countess of Dorchester, the Earl of Portmore, the Duchess of Dorset, Duchess of D D 3 306 ilAM, EASl, Leeds, and Nell Gwjm ; and in a room np stairs, a picture of two boys, children of the Duchess of Dorset. The rest of the pictures have been removed. In the attic- story is a room with a coved ceiling, used by James IT. as a chapel ; within it was his bed- room, from which there is a private passage ; and a place is shown, in which he is said to have concealed himself on the advance of the Prince of Orange. There are also some small cupboards, called barracks, because a few of the king's guards are stated to have slept in them. HAM, EAST, a parish and village in Essex. The vil- lage lies half a mile east from Barking. The church here is thought to be of great antiquity ; on the south wall of the lower chancel are several Saxon arches, worthy of notice, as are also the narrow pointed windows of the upper chancel. There is a handsome monument behind the communion-table, to the memory of Edmund Nevill Latimer, reputed seventh Earl of Westmorland j the effigies represent the lord and his lady Jane, Countess of Westmorland. There is a poetical inscription of consi- derable length on the earl, as also on his daughter, the *' right vertuous, faire, and noble ladie Katharine," and on Jane his wife. Several other distinguished personages have been interred in the church and churchyard ; and among them, the renowned antiquary. Dr. Stukeley, who, as appears by the register, was buried in March, 1765. The spot for his burial-place w^as chosen by himself, during a visit to the Rev. Mr. Sims, a former vicar of this parish ; according to his own request, the turf was laid smoothly over his grave, without any monument. A monument has been put up on the east wall of the nave for Inyr Burgess, Esq., 30 years Paymaster to the East India Company ; it also commemorates his son-in-law, who died in 1803. Also buried here, December 8, 1804, Sir John Dick, Bart., of Roehampton, aged 84 ; Knight of the Imperial Russian Order of St. Anne, of the lirst class. 'J'he Scotch baronetcy of Dick of Braid became HAM, WEST — HAM. 307 extinct by his death. Dorothy, Lady Foley, was buried here, January 19, 1804, aged 84. Giles Breeme, Esq., who died in 1621, has a monument on the north side of the chancel ; he left the greater part of his estate for building an almshouse, and endowing it with 40/. a-year; and in other charities. Near the church is Ea^t Ham Hall, the property of Lord Henniker ; and within a mile is Green Street Home, ' — See Green Street* HAM, WEST, a parish and village in Essex, The vil- lage is distant 4 miles from Whitechapel church ; it is large and pleasantly situate, and had formerly a market. The ill-fated Dr. Dodd resided here for some years. Within a mile of the village are the site and remains of the monastery of Stratford Langthorne. — See Stratford, which is a hamlet of this parish. HAMMERSMITH, a populous township and chapelry in Middlesex, 4 miles west from London, on the great western road. It is in the parish of Fulham, forming, with Brook Green, Stanbrook Green, and Shepperd's Bush, what is termed the Hammersmith side of that parish. From Ken- sington to Hammersmith is now almost one continued street, chiefly of modern buildings, and the village of Hammersmith is crowded with houses of all sizes. Many of them are substantial well-built family residences, espe- cially in the main street, and towards the Thames, which is here skirted by handsome villas, most of them of red brick, with the numerous windows and ample dimensions of the old school. Many of the modern houses, too, in this village, are extremely well built. The chapel of ease stands near the centre of the town, and at the extremity is the new district-church of St. Peter's. Besides these places of worship, here are chapels for Dissenters of almost every denomination, some good charity-schools (especially one established by Bishop Latimer, the re- venues of which, originally but very insignificant, have now risen to 800/. per annum), and a spacious workhouse. 308 HAMMERSMITH. In King'-street is a nunnery ^ wliich originated iu the fact that in 1669, Mrs. Bedding-field and another lady set up a boarding-school here, for young; ladies of the Roman Catholic persuasion. Soon after its institution, the govern- esses and teachers having voluntarily bound themselves to the observance of monastic rules, it obtained the name of a nunnery ; and since that time many young ladies have taken the veil here, and doomed themselves to voluntary seclusion. The establishment is still carried on as a Roman Catholic boarding-school ; and near it, at Brook Green, is a charity-school for children of that persuasion. In Hammersmith chapel of ease (built about 1631) is an elegant monument to Edmund Sheffield, Eail of Mulgrave, and Baron of Butterwick, who resided here in an ancient mansion, still extant, but divided into two houses, called Butterwick House, Here also, in the chancel, on a monu- mental pillar of black and white marble, is a good bronze bust of Charles I., which was placed here by the special appointment of the truly loyal Sir Nicholas Crispe and beneath it, on a pedestal of black marble, is an urn, in- closing the heart of Sir Nicholas : his other remains were deposited in the family vault, in St. Mildred's church, Bread-street. The Dane Coffee-house, between the Uppei- and Lower Malls (which contain many commodious and substantial houses), was frequented by the poet Thomson, who wrote part of his Winter" here. On the Terrace resided, for many years, the late dramatist Arthur Mur- phy, Esq., and P. James de Loutlierbourg, R.A., the emi- nent and skilful painter : the latter died here in 1812. At the back of Theresa Terrace are the reservoirs, &c. (which occupy about three acres) of the West Middlesex Water-works, which were established in 1806, for the purpose of supplying this parish and its neighbourhood with Thames water. Since that period, in consequence of a second act of parliament, obtained in 1810, the company have extended their works to several of the western parishes of London, IIAMPSTEAD. 309 The grounds around Hammersmith are chiefly occupied by nurserymen and market- gardeners, who supply London with some of the choicest flowers and vegetables. The nursery and exotic gardens of Messrs. Lee, are particu- larly celebrated. In the vicinity are numerous pleasant villas — too many, indeed, for particular description , but see Craven Cottage, At the extremity of the town is a beautiful Suspension JBridge ovar the Thames into Surrey, a light and truly ele- gant structure, in imitation of the celebrated Menai bridge. On the right hand of the turning which leads to it stood Brandenburg House, now pulled down. This celebrated villa, is supposed to have been built in the commencement of the reign of Charles L It was purchased by the late Margrave of Anspach, in 1792, after having sold his domi- nions to the King of Prussia for an annuity paid to him by that potentate. The Margravine continued to reside here for some years after her lord's death, but in her later years confined herself to Craven Cotfage, built and so named by herself when Lady Craven. Brandenburg House was last noted as the residence of the late Queen Caroline, after her return from the continent in 1820. HAMPSTEAD, a large and populous village in Mid- dlesex, four miles N . \V. from London, lies on the brow and declivity of a hill, on the summit of which is an ex- tensive heath. The fine views of the metropolis, and of the distant country, which are to be seen from the heath, and fi om most parts of the village, are not the only beau- ties of the scene : the home landscape, consisting of broken ground, divided into inclosures, and well planted with elms and other trees, is extremely picturesque. In the reign of Henry VHL, Hampstead was no more than an obscure hamlet, chiefly inhabited by washer- women ; and here the clothes of the nobility, gentry, and chief citizens, used to be brought from London to be washed.'' Towards the commencement of the seventeenth century, it became a fashionable watering-place, teeming 310 IIAMPSTEAD. with amusements and dissipation. In Queen Anne's reign, the public papers were constantly occupied with advertisements of concerts at the " Long Rooms," raffles at the Wells," races on the " Heath,'' entertainments at " Belsize," and private marriages at Sion Chapel." The JVells (in the Well Walk) were known at least as early as 1698, and thej were afterwards in much lepute, the sanative effects of the water having hy diff'erent phy- sicians been pronounced equal to those of Tonb ridge Wells, in Kent. The water is a simple carbonated chalybeate, and the temperature of the spring is invariably from 46<> to 47o. So highly were its qualities estimated about a century ago, that it was sent in flasks to London, daily, and vended in diff'erent quarters of the metropolis. Scarcely any attention is now given to its virtues. Besides the springs in the Well Walk, other chalybeates are found in various parts of the heath, and near the bottom of Pond- street. Hampstead Heath abounds in sand, considerable quan- tities of which are conveyed to London for domestic uses. The valuable composition, called Parker's Eoman Cement, is principally forDied from the septaria found in the tile clay-pits of Hampstead and Kilburn. A large square mansion, on the left of the entrance into Hampstead, is supposed to be that which the celebrated Sir Henry Vane inhabited at the time of the Restoration, and in which he was afterwards arrested, being on false pretences put to death about two years afterwards. This house subsequently belonged to Dr. Joseph Butler, Bishop of Durham, author of the Analogy between Natural and Revealed Religion." That prelate lived here many years, and ornamented the windows with a considerable quantity of stained glass (principally subjects from Scripture), which still remains here. The building has been much nltered, and a completely independent dwelling formed out of the offices ; here, also, almost every window is oinamented with stained glass. IIAMPSTEAD. 311 On the side of the hill is an ancient low brick building", called The Chicken House, in a window of which were formerly small portraits in stained glass, of James I. and the Duke of Buckingham. These have been removed to Branch Hill Lodge, a seat of Sir Thomas Neave, Bart. Tradition says, that this was a hunting-seat of James II. Branch Hill Lodge stands in the upper part of Hampstead, near the Terrace. It has been greatly augmented and im- proved by the present possessor, and ornamented with a very large and valuable collection of stained glass, from various convents on the continent. The church was considered as a chapel of ease to Hendon, till 1478, when it became a perpetual curacy, and has since been constantly annexed to the manor. It was rebuilt in 1747, and its spire, rising through the trees, forms a picturesque object from whatever parts it is seen in the adjacent country. Jt is an ill-designed brick-build- ing, with a tower and spire at the east end. Child's Hill, west of Hampstead Heath, commands one of the finest views this picturesque spot affords. The horizon presents Windsor Castle, and the obelisk on Bag- shot Heath ; the extensive range of the Surrey hills ; and, faintly delineated, the bolder ascent of the Hog's-back, in Hampshire. Among- the various villas and seats in this parish is Rosslyn House, which was originally an old man- sion, called Shelford Lodge, held under the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. This was purchased by the late Lord Rosslvn, who added considerably to the building, and named it after his own title. It was afterwards the seat of the late Robert Milligan, Esq., an eminent West- India merchant. On Holly-bush Hill is an elegant assembly-room, which was partly formed out of a house that had been erected by Romney, the painter. The Upper and Lower Flasks (the former of which has been celebrated by Richardson as the retreat of his heroine Clarissa, after one of her escapes from Lovelace) are now private dwellings. At the Upper 312 HAMPTON. Flask, the famous Kit-Cat Club used to meet in the summer months ; and there also, after it became a private abode, the not less celebrated George Stevens, Esq., commonly called the Shakspeare Stevens, lived and died. The Spaniards, a much-frequented place of recreation in the summer season, is just vidthout the boundaries of this parish, on the road to Caen Wood. The prospects from this spot are verj fine. On Hampstead Heath the Mid- dlesex elections were held so late as William the Third's reign. The first announcement of their taking place at Brentford was in the year 1700-1. From Shepherd's Fields maybe distinctly seen Windsor Castle, Leith Hill, Box Hill, and the rich and matchless variety of intervening objects over a distance of 40 miles. From a bench on the road to West End may be seen the whole amphitheatre of the Surrey and Kentish hills, in- cluding the metropolis. ' From the north-west the pros- pect includes Harrow-on-the-Hill, and extends into Buckingham, Bedford, and Northamptonshires ; and, from the east, it ranges over the counties of Essex and Kent, almost to the mouth of the Thames ; and the ships, with a telescope, may be continually seen in motion. Hampstead has been the residence of many eminent characters, as well of the nobility, as of those distin- guished in the republic of letters. In a small house on Haverstock Hill, died the witty, though profligate. Sir Charles Sedley : and, in the same dwelling. Sir Richard Steele resided for a short period in the year 1712 : the poets Gay and Akenside, Dr. Sewell, and many others of literary renown, have also resided in this village. — See Caen Wood, HAMPTON, a village in Middlesex, situate on the Thames, opposite the mouth of the river Mole at Moulsey, 14 miles W.S.W. from London, and seven east from Staines. Here is a ferry to West Moulsey, and a bridge to East Moulsey ; the bridge is a light wooden structure of 11 arches, erected in 1753. There are many genteel seats HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 313 in the vicinity ; among others, the villa of the late David Garrick, whose v^idow resided here until her death. The pleasure-grounds were laid out under Garrick's own direction, and in the summer-house he erected an elegant temple to Shakspeare, w^herein, on a pedestal, stood E-ouhillac's statue of the hard, which now graces the British Museum. There were also some paintings here formerly, by Hogarth and others, but they are now dis- persed. Hampton is a favourite resort of anglers, and here are good inns, punts, &c., for their accommodation ; especially the Bell and the Red Lion inns, either of which may be safely recommended. The garden of the latter is noted for a splendid annual display of tulips. HAMPTON-COURT PALACE stands on the north bank of the Thames, about 12 miles west from Hyde- park-corner. The whole of the apartments, except the state-rooms, are now inhabited by private families, who have grants from the Lord Chamberlain, during the king's pleasure. Hampton manor is mentioned in Doomsday- book as held by Walter de St. Walaric ; and in the time of Edward the Confessor it belonged to Count Algar. In 1211, Joan Lady Grey, relict of Sir Robert Grey, of Hampton, left by her will the whole manor and manor- house of Hampton to the Knights-hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. Cardinal Wolsey, in his frequent attendance upon the king at Hanwoth and Kempton Park, discovered and be- came enamoured of this beautiful spot; and, in 1512, he bargained with the prior of Hampton for this priory and its manorial rights. The residence of the knights was soon rased to the ground, and the building of the palace commenced about I5l5 ; and as Wolsey had a taste for architecture, he watched the progress of the building with great anxiety, and furnished the whole of the drawings and designs him- self. There are some views of this palace, as it was in 314 IIAMPTON-COURT PALACE. the days of Henry VIII., wliicb were taken by a French- man attached to some of the numerous embassies that then visited England, and one is engraved with the travels of Cosmo III., Duke of Tuscany, taken in 1669. An engraving of a view taken towards the end of Charles the Second's reign, was also presented to Sir Walter Scott, Hampton-court Palace, according to Wolsey's original plan, consisted of five courts or quadrangles, of which one (that which is entered by the west front) only now re- mains. Long before the palace was finished, Wolsey lived here in more than regal state ; a state that quite eclipsed the Court at Hanwoth, and which, as Stow informs us, soon " began to excite great envy at Court.'* The king, therefore, took occasion to question the Cardinal as to his intentions in building a palace that far surpassed any of the royal palaces in England ; but Wolsey, who had received some public as well as private hints of the displeasure his magnificence had excited, replied confidently, that " he was only trying to form a residence w^orthy of so great a monarch, and that Hampton-court Palace was the pro- perty of King Henry VIII.'* The palace actually became the property of the crown in 1526, before it was completed. The works were still car- ried on under the superintendence of the Cardinal, who con- tinued to occupy private apartments here and at the palace of Richmond until made Bishop of Winchester, when he had another residence in this neighbourhood, namely, the Bishop's Palace at Esher, to which he was ordered after his disgrace at court. Wolsey was made Chancellor of England on the 7th of December, 1516, and held the seals till the 25th of October, 1530. The palace of Hampton-court has been the scene of many an eventful history." Every spot of ground calls up some historical recollection, and every corner of the building is pregnant wnth some memorable tradition of court gallantry, or private intrigue. It became the chief residence of Henry's court about 1528, and in 1538 an 4K HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 315 act of parliament was obtained to form Hampton-court Chase an act which laid waste, in a great measure, the whole of 15 or 16 parishes in the county of Surrey, and nearly as many in Middlesex, in order " that the king, then old and corpulent, might enjoy his favourite amuse- ment of hunting without the fatigue of going far from home." A large extent of valuable property was thus not only sacrificed to gratify the royal caprice, but the country was taxed to inclose it ; for the whole of Hampton-court Chase was inclosed by a wooden paling. No sooner, how- ever, had Henry ceased to breathe than this act was re- pealed, the paling removed, and the deer conveyed to Windsor j yet what was thus inclosed is still considered as a royal chase, for in 1540, when by another act of par- liament the manor of Hampton-court was converted into an HONOUR, it was declared that the said honour should extend over all manors, lands, and tenements, within the limits of what had been the royal chase. The Chief Steward of the honour of Hampton- court, and Feodary of the honour, has constantly been appointed also Lieutenant and Keeper of this Chase. These offices have alwaj^s been given to some distinguished courtier, and we find them held by Sir Anthony Browne, Sir Michael Stanhope, William Marquess of Northampton, Charles Earl of Not- tingham, and George Duke of Buckingham, in the reigns of Elizabeth and James. Charles I. appointed Villiers Earl of Anglesey, in 1628, and in 1 630, the Marquess of Hamilton, his Lord Steward. Oliver Cromwell took the office to himself, and Thomas Smitherley, Keeper of his Privy Seal, and a Mr. Nathan Waterhouse were his de- puties. At the Restoration, General Monk, Duke of Albe- marle, was appointed, and after his death Charles ap- pointed his mistress, Barbara Villiers, the famous Lady Castlemain, then created Duchess of Cleveland. At the death of the Duchess, in 1709, Queen Anne appointed Charles Earl of Halifax, and he was succeeded by his nephew, George Earl of Halifax, who died in 1771 ; then Lady 316 HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. North, afterwards Countess of Guildford, was appointed. She lived till 1797, when George III. appointed his third son, William Henry Duke of Clarence, Hanger of Bushy Park, Lieutenant and Keeper of Hampton-court Chase, and Steward and Feodary of the honour and manor of Hampton-court- and when, in 1830, the Duke of Cla- rence succeeded to the throne of his ancestors, as King William IV. of England, he bestow^ed these offices upon his amiable Consort, Queen Adelaide. Edward VI. was born in Hampton-court Palace, 12th of October, 1537, and his mother. Queen Jane Seymour, only survived his birth tw^o days. The day after the queen's death the young prince was baptized in the Chapel Koyal with great magnificence, having for his god-fathers at the font, Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury (Cran- mer) and the Duke of Norfolk." Jane Seymour was daughter of Sir John Seymour, and married to Henry VIII. on the 20th of May, 1536, the day after the murder of Anne Boleyn ; but she lived only as queen one year, five months, and 24 days. Henry regarded this young lady with more constancy and affection than any of his many wdves. The suddenness of her death, after giving a male heir to the crown, afi^ected, as much as it was possible to affect, the mind and feelings of a heartless sensualist. He left Hampton- court, and remained for several weeks in private ; and we are gravely told, by way of climax to his grief, " that his Majesty wore his mourning garb during the whole festival of Christmas." Several parts of the palace must have been under repair at this time, as the letters H and I are found in many of the ceilings, inserted in what is called a true lover's knot ; and on each side of the door leading into the Chapel there is still preserved an escutcheon cut out of a solid block of sandstone — the one on the right has the royal arms impaled with those of Seymour, with the H and I in a true lover's knot ; the shield is held up by two angels as supporters, who are bearing it up by a riband — that on the left hand contains HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 317 simply the royal arms, with H. R. (Henry Rex), sup- ported also by angels. Catherine Howard appeared publicly as queen at Hampton-court on the 8th of August, 1540, and the nuptial ceremonies of King Henry with Catherine Parr, the sister of the Marquess of Northampton, and widow of Lord Latimer, were celebrated at this palace, July 12th, 1543. The last of Henry's festivals at Hampton-court w^as in 1545, when Francis Gonzaga, Viceroy of Italy, paid him a visit during Christmas. While Edward VI. resided at Hampton-court wdth the Protector Somerset, a very serious dissension happened in the council, where it w'as proposed to deprive the duke of his royal ward ; and in consequence of an alarm given that this was to be done by force, the household and inha- bitants of the town of Hampton armed themselves for the protection of the young king. Edward, in the last year of his reign, held a chapter of the Order of the Garter at Hampton-court Palace : the knights went to Windsor in the morning, but returned to this palace in the evening, where they were royally feasted, and when Henry Grey Marquess of Dorset was created Duke of Suffolk, and John Dudley Earl of Warwick Duke of Northumber- land, 1551. The first was attainted, and the second for- feited his titles, in the first year of King Edward's suc- cessor, 1553. Queen Mary and Philip of Spain, her husband, passed their honey *moon in gloomy retirement at Hampton- court, and in 1558 kept their Christmas here wath great solem- nity. " The court supped in the great hall, which was illuminated with 1,000 lamps. The Princess Elizabeth supped at the same table with their majesties, next the cloth of state, and, after supper, was served with a per- fumed napkin and plate of comfits by Lord Paget j but she retired to her ladies before the revels, maskings, and disguisings began." On St. Stephen's-day the princess was permitted to hear matins in the queen's closet, when E E 3 318 HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. we are told " she was attired in a robe of white satin strung all over with large pearls and, on the 29th of December, she sat with their majesties and the nobility at a grand spectacle of jousting, when 200 lances were broken, half the combatants being accoutred Alamaigne (as Germans) and half as Spaniards." Elizabeth was evidently brought to Hampton- court from her prison at Woodstock at this period ; and these scenes of gaiety, very unusual in Mary's reign, were got up that they might in some measure dispel from her mind the remem- brance of her injuries. When Elizabeth became queen, she made Hampton -court one of her favourite residences, and occasionally the great hall exhibited the same scenes of festivity that it had done in the days of her father. She kept Christmas here in 1572, and again in 1593 ; and the present stables or royal mews, attached to the palace, were built by her. James I. had no sooner been pro- claimed than he took up his residence at Hampton-court. The conference between the clergy of the Established Church and the Presbyterians was held here in 1603-4, at which his majesty presided. In the autumn of 1606, King James and his queen entertained here Francis, Prince of Vaudemois, son of the Duke of Lorraine, with many noblemen and gentlemen that accompanied him, and *' the feastings and pastimes lasted for 14 days.'^ In 1625, Charles I. and Queen Henrietta, while the plague raged in London, retired from Durham House to Hampton-court, where his majesty gave audiences to the ambassadors of France and Denmark, as also to an envoy from Bethlem Gabor, then Prince of Transylvania. In 1641 their majesties again sought an asylum at this palace. The apprentices of London, then formidable engines of a political faction, by their insurrectionary cla- mour, drove the king and queen from the palace at White- hall, to seek temporary relief in the quiet shades of Hampton-court. But even here the turbulent spirit of Uie times pursued them and obliged them to quit their HAMPTON" -COL' RT PALACE. 319 retirement During the next six years it was unoccupied. I'be beautiful Chapel Royal was dismantled in 1645, by order of Sir Robert Harlow, in conformity to an ordinance of parliament for the pulling down and demolishing' the pulpit and superstitious pictures in Hampton-court. The altar, we are told, was taken down, and the table brought into the body of the chapel ; the rails pulled down and the steps levelled, and the popish pictures and images that were in the glass windows were all demolished, and orders given to repair them with plain glass. A beautiful painting of the Crucifixion, which was placed over the altar, and various other paintings of great value, were pulled down and demolished. On the 24th of August, 1647, Charles was brought here a prisoner by the army. Notwithstanding that he was strictly guarded, his majesty, on the 11th of November, made his escape and reached the Isle of Wight. But the transitions from Hampton-court Palace to the scaffold at Whitehall occupied a very short time. After King- Charles's death, this palace, with W^indsor Castle and Whitehall, were voted by parliament as residences for the Lord Protector, and Cromwell spent much of his time latterly at Hampton-court. Cromwell's daughter, Eliza- beth, was married to Lord Falconberg, 18th of November, 1657, and Mrs. Claypole, his favourite child, died here 6th of August, 1658. On the abdication of James II., William III. became fondl}^ attached to this delightful spot. His majesty was not in good health, and found relief from the mild dry air of this peninsula. Queen Mary, his illustrious consort, was equally partial to this residence ; and it was this queen who, either for amusement, or that she might have a palace more to her own taste, prevailed upon her hus- band to have three of the original quadrangles pulled down, and Sir Christopher Wren employed to furnish plans for the new building. During- the aUerutions, as the king was often absent in 320 HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. Holland, the queen resided in a temporary building, nearly on the banks of the ri\^er, close to what is called the water-gallery, and of which only one room, called the lanquetting-Toom, is now in existence, which had commu- nication with the palace by a cov^ered way. Queen Anne resided here before she came to the crown, and, in 1689, gave birth to the prince, who was nominated Duke of Gloucester at his baptism ; but he was cut off at the early age of 11, and the seals were never put to his patent. On the death of King William, Queen Anne continued his alterations and improvements, and most of the buildings now remain as they existed at her majesty's death. In its present state, Hampton-court Palace consists of three principal quadrangles : the icestern^ or that which has existed with the least alteration since it was built by Wolsey, is 167 feet by 162. On approaching this magnificent front the visitor will be grieved to observe how it has been disfigured by the in- sertion of modern windows, and other gross irregularities. The interior of this court, however, remains as it was finished by Wolsey. The middle, or clock-court, is 130 feet by 134. This quadrangle remains partly as finished by Henry VIIT., and partly as new modelled and arranged by Sir Christopher Wren. On the south side is a colonnade of 14 columns and two pilasters of the Ionic order, with an entablature and balustrade at the top, adorned in the middle with two large vases. This colonnade completely hides some of the finest parts of the old building, which are less altered than almost any other portion of the palace. The north side of the clock-court is bounded by the large Gothic hall with that fine oriel window, to which, while Henry VIII. held day after day, and night after night, his unmeasured revels here, the gay and gallant Earl of Surrey, then the greatest favourite at court, would often retire with the fair Geral- dine to hold amorous dalliance ; and where, it is said, Henry, having discovered the first letters of their names HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 321 in a true lover's knot, engraved with a diamond on one of the panes of glass, was first seized with that ungovernable jealousy, which brought Suny to the block and Geraldine to misery. It was in this same hall that Queen Mary had her solemn mummeries performed : and Elizabeth saw plays acted, and kept her Christmas gambols. It w^as here that many plays w^ere performed, for the first time, before the virgin queen, which Shakspeare wrote, and in which, it is believed, he acted. James also had plays acted in this hall ; and George II., determined to make his courtiers merry, during the summer of 1718, had the hall fitted up again as a theatre ; the comedians were ordered down from London ; but it took so long in preparing, that it was not opened till the 23rd of September, when the tragedy of Hamlet was performed ; and, on the 1st of October, Henry Fill., or the Downfall of TVohey, w^as acted on this very spot which had been the scene of his greatest splendour. This hall was used as a theatre for the last time on the 16th of October, 1731, when Queen Caroline had a play got up for the entertainment of Francis Duke of Lor- raine, afterwards Emperor of Germany, then on a visit at the Court of George II.* The scenery and furnishings, however, remained in the hall till 1798, when James Wyatt, Esq., Surveyor-general of his Majesty's Works, obtained permission to remove them, in order that the roof, which was in a state of decay, might be put into proper repair. These repairs were commenced in. 3 800; and the hall, with the exception of the screen and music- gallery, is now as perfect as when first built. The eastern boundary of the clock-court is formed by the walls of the * George II. was the last sovereign that resided at Hampton-court. George III. often visited the palace, but never slept there. George IV. was frequently a resident in the Stud-house, in the Home-park, but never resided in the palace. 322 HAMPTON-COUllT PxiLACt. apartments where Charles I. was confined, in 1647^ and where Cromwell lodged, and which are now occupied as a private lodging. These apartments remain partly as ori- ginally finished, and partly as modernised by George II. in 1732, when they were fitted up as a residence for the Prince of Wales, the father of George 111. The western boundary, which, after passing under the vaulted archway, we (urn to gaze upon, will bear minute examination, and merits admiration. It is not deformed by any modern changes ; and even the broad dial- plate of the ancient clock, exhibiting all the signs of the zodiac, is an object in itself of great curiosity. Whatever route the visitor may take on his journey from London, we advise him, when he arrives at Hampton - court, to enter by the western or Trophy-gaie^ towards the front of the palace. This front is still very interesting, and it is only when you come near to it that the defor- mities of modern windows and doorways here and there detract from the uniformity and beauty of the general outline. The grand entrance is still perfect, and the court is still preserved, as when finished by Wolsey's workmen. The repairs have all been in conformity to the original design, and the architecture is very simple. The eastern boundary, which fronts the visitor on entering, is a beau- tiful combination of a Gothic structure, and over the bat- tlements of the lower roof is seen the western gable of the Gothic hall, with its large window, and the clock- turret over the gateway. The second arched gateway leads into the second or clock-court. The ceiling here must be of the time of Henry, when Anne Boleyn was yet in favour, for the letters H and A are stamped on several of the medallions. On the right-hand side of the court is the grand or king's staircase, by which we are conducted to the state apart- ments, ^ The ceiling and walls of the king's ittairease were })aintGd by Verrio, a Neapolitan painter, brought to H A PT N - C O U R T PA LAC E . England by Charles II., and who died during the reign of Queen Anne, 1707. It is crowded with allegories, richly ornamented with numerous devices, in a most florid style. Time, however, is fast destroying many of the principal figures. The upper part on the left side re- presents Apollo and the Muses performing a concert ; below these Pan is seated playing on his reeds, and below him Ceres^ bearing a wheat-sheaf, and pointing to loaves of bread. Near to Ceres are the river-gods, Thames and Isis, accompanied by Nereides, and surrounding a table covered with superb plate. This compartment is meant to represent the marriage of the Thames and Isis. On the ceiling we have Jupiter and Juno seated on their throne, with Ganymede on the eagle presenting the cup to Jove. The peacock, Juno's bird, is seen in front, and one of the Fates is in attendance with her shears ready to execute the command of the sovereign of Olympus, and separate the mortal thread — the whole covered with a canopy, and surrounded by the signs of the zodiac, and zephyrs with flowers. On one side stands Fame with her two trumpets ; the whole being an allegory in some way complimentary to King William and Queen Mary, Beneath, Venus is introduced with one leg upon a swan, Cupid riding upon another, and Mars making love to the fair goddess. On the right of this little group are Pluto and Proserpine, Coelus and Terra, Cybele crow^ned with a tower, and other figures, — Neptune and Amphitrite being in front, with attendants offering nectar and fruits. On the left, Bacchus, clothed in a leopard's skin, and crowned with grapes, is leaning on a vase, and has one hand rest- ing on the head of Silenus, who is seated on a fallen ass, Romulus and Remus are introduced here. On the oppo- site side of the table, w^hich is supported by eagles, and which these figures partly surround, is Hercules in the lion's skin, resting on his club. Another panel represents Peace with a laurel in her right hand, and in her left a palm-branch, which she holds 324 IIAMPTON-COURT PALACE. over the head of ^neas, who stands by her as if inviting the Csesars, who are there, to a celestial banquet. Spurina, the soothsayer, is among the group, and over all hovers the genius of Rome, holding a flaming sword, the emblem of destruction, and a bridle, the emblem of govern- ment — being meant as allegorical of the Revolution that brought William to the throne, and of his wise govern- ment of England. In another panel we have the Emperor Julian writing at a table, with Mercury in attendance. Above the door w^hich gives admittance into the grand chamber, there is a Pyra, or funeral pile, painted in chiaro-oscuro. From the king's staircase w^e enter the guard-chamher, a magnificent room, 60 feet long, 37 wide, and 30 in height. Here are muskets, halberds, pistols, and swords, arranged in various figures upon the w^alls, with daggers, drums, and bandaliers, frontlets, and other pieces of defensive armour, all in the highest order. There are sufficient arms here for the equipment of a thousand men. The paintings are, Over the fire-place, the ruins of the Colosseum, by Canaletti ; and around the room, German battle-pieces, by Rug en das. A Battle of Constantino the Great, by J, Romano, Six English Admirals, by Bookman, Queen Elizabeth's Porter, by Zucchero. On leaving the guard-hall the stranger enters what is called The King's First Presence-chamber, where there is a picture of King William landing at Torbay, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, His queen, Mary, by Wissing, And around the room are full-length portraits of the female beauties of their court, all by Kneller, The first, the Duchess of St. Alban's. The second, the Countess of Essex. The third, the Countess of Peterborough. The fourth, the Countess of Ranelagli. HAMPTOK-COURT PALACE, 225 The fifth, Miss Pitt. The sixth, the Duchess of Grafton. The seventh, the Countess of Dorset, The eighth, Lady Middleton. Over the fire-place is a portrait of James, first Marquess of Hamilton, bj Miite?is. Hemy VI TI. embarking from Dover, and his entry into Calais, by Holbein, The Battle of Spurs, by Holbein, The Battle of Pavia, by Holbein, Prometheus chained to the Rock, by Falmcc, Bassano, by Himself, An Italian Lady, by Parmegiano. Augustus consulting the Sibyl, by P, da Covtona. The Genius of Poetry, by Genaro. Over the doors are pieces of ruins, by Rousseau. The canopy of King William's throne still remains, with the King's arms and the Dutch motto, Je main tien dray." The Second Presence-chamber contains the Doge of Venice in the Senate -house, by Tintoretto, Jupiter and Europa, hj Julio Romano, The sculptor, Baccio Bandinelli, by Correggio, Mrs. Lemon, by Vandyke, Cleopatra, by Ludovico Caracci, An Italian Knight, by Pordenone, A Holy Family, by F, Valine, The Annimciation, by Paul Veronese. St. Michael, by Sir J, Reynolds, after Guido, Christ in the House of the Pharisee, by Bassano, An Italian Lady, b}^ Parmegiano, A Warrior, by Giorgione, Virgin and Child, by Tintoretto, Boccacio, by Titian, Virgin and Child, by Bronzino, Charles I. on horseback, hy Vandyke, Philip IV. of Spain, and Queen, by Valasquez, Jacob's Departure from Jvaban, by F, Laura, F r 326 UAMFfON-COURT PALACE, Joseph and Mary, by G. Hontlnirst. A Head, by Vandyke, Diana and Actaeon, by Titian. Guercino, by Himself, The Marriage of St. Catherine, by P, Veronese, St. Francis and the Virgin, by Carlo Maratti. Christian IV. King of Denmark, by Van Somers, Jacob, Rachel and Leah, by Guido Cagnacci. Jacob's Journey, by Bassano, Peter Oliver, the painter, by Hanneman, A Dutch Gentleman, by Vander Haht, And over each of the doors, Ruins, by Rousseau. The Audience-chamber contains five beautiful paintings, by 5. Ricci : Our Saviour in the Rich Man's House ; Christ Healing the Sick ; the Woman taken in Adultery ; the Woman of Faith , and the Woman of Samaria. Aretine, the poet, by Titian. Titian's Uncle, by Titian. The Birth of Bacchus ; Jupiter and Juno ; and the Birth of Jupiter, by Juliu Romano. An Italian Market, by Bamboccio. Venus and Cupid, by Rubens, after Titian. Over the fire-place, the Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I., by G. Honthorst, Two Landscapes, by Swaneveldt. -Venus and Cupid, by Titiayi, Boaz and Ruth, by Bassano. Death and the Last Judgment, by M. Hemskerck, The Cornaro Family, by Old Stone, A Spanish Lady, by Sebastian del Piombo. The Heads of St. Peter and Judas, by Guido, Virgin and Child, by Andrea del Sarto, A Holy Family, by Correggio. Cupid and Psyche, by Lazzarini. The Virgin and Child, with St. Andrew and St. Michael, by e/. de Mabuse, And over^ach door, a Madonna and Child, hy Parmegiano, HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 32r The King^s Drawing-room. — Here is a line picture of Georg-e III. reviewing the 10th Light Dragoons (now Hussars). The late king is in the uniform of his regi- ment, giving the word of command ; the late Duke of York is on horseback on the left of his father ; Sir William Fawcett is on the ground, and General Goldsworthy and Sir David Dundas are on horseback beside the Duke of York. By Sir William Eeechey. Joseph and Potiphar's Wife, by Geiiti/eschi, The Muses, by Tintoretto. The Offering of the Magi, by Luca Jordano, The Presentation of Queen Esther, by Tintoretto, Cupid and Psyche, by Vandyhe, The Wise Men's OiTering, by Carlo Cagliare. Apotheosis of a Saint, by Bassano. A Knight of Malta, by Tintoretto, A Venetian Senator, by Pordenone, Over the fire-place, the Duke of York, brother of George III., by l>ar?ce. A Holy Family, by Dasso DossL The Family of Pordenone, by Himself. Christ's Agony in the Garden, and the Angels appearing to the Shepherds, by N, Poussin. David with Goliath's Head, by Domenico Fetti. A Holy Family, by Parmegiano. King William the Third's Bed-room. — Here is the state- bed of Queen Charlotte. The furniture is a most beau- tiful specimen of embroidered needlework, executed at an institution for the orphan daughters of clergymen, which was under the patronage of her Majesty. The ceiling was painted by Verrio, and is in good preservation ; it re- presents Night and Morning. The clock which stands at the head of the bed goes twelve months without winding up, and was made by Daniel Quare. Round the room are the ctlebrated portraits of the beauties of Charles the Second's court : they are shown in the following order : — Anne Duchess of York, by Sir Peter Lely. 328 HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. Lady Byron, by Lely. Princess Mary, as Diana, by Lely, Queen Catherine, by Lely, Mrs. Knott, by Verelst, Duchess of Portsmouth, by Gasker^ Duchess of Richmond, by Lely. Nell Gwynne, by Lely, Countess of Rochester, by Lely, Countess of Ossory, by Verelst. Mrs. Lawson, by Verelst . Countess of Northumberland, by Lely. Lady Denham, by Lely. Countess of Sunderland, by Lely. Countess de Grammont, by Lely. Duchess of Cleveland, by Lely. Duchess of Somerset, by Lely. Lady Whitmore, by Lely, Mrs. Middleton, by Lely. Over the doors are flower-pieces, by Baptiste, The King's Dressing- room. — The ceiling, painted by Verrio, is Mars reposing in the lap of Venus, with Cupid stealing his armour. Poultry, by Hondelweter. Rape of the Sabines, by Old Franks. A Dutch Fair, by Breughel, Two Children, by Leonardo da Vinci. A curious portrait of a Child, supposed to be Henry vin. Youth and Age, by Denner. A Saint's Head, by Gerhard Dow, Joseph Bound, and the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, by Liica& Van Ley den. A Venetian Gentleman, by Bassano, A Landscape, by Swaneveldt, Flowers, by M. Fan Osterwyck. Lot and his Daughters, by G, Schalken, A Landscape, by Wynants, HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 32^ Banditti, by Borgognone, Still Life, bj Cuyp. Italian Peasants, by M. A. Battaglia. A Head, by Gerhard Dow, Fruit, by De Heem, A Warrior, by Correggio, A Boy laughing, by Frank Hals, Charity, by Carlo Cignani. A Marine View, by Vandervelde. A Candlelight-scene, by G. Schalken, A Landscape, by Rubens. The Head of Cyrus, by Diepenbeke, A Cattle-piece, by ^. Vayidervelde. A Magdalen's Head, by Sasso Ferrato. A Sibyl, by Gentileschi. A Warrior, by Guercino, The Virgin teaching the Infant to read, and a Mother and two Children, by Carlo Cignani, Two Landscapes with Figures, by Poelemberg, Two small oval pictures, by Steenwick, A Shepherd and Shepherdess, by Collins, The King's Writing-closet contains Dead Game, by Van Aelst, Still Life, by De Heem, Moses striking the liock, by Salvator Rosa, Landscape and Figures, by Dietrice, Lot and his Daughters, and Diana and Nymphs, by Poelemberg^ A Dutch Church, by Peter Nieffs, A Battle-piece, by Wouvermans, St. Peter in Prison, by Steenwick, The Woman taken in Adultery, and the Tribute-Money by Dietrice, Two Flower-pieces, by D, Seghers, An Incantation, by M. Cross. Two Landscapes, with Figures, by Poelemberg. A Jewish Rabbi, and a Dutch Lady, by Rembrandt, V F 3 330 HAMPTON-COXJRT PALACE. Children with a lamb, by Francis Floris, St. Catharine at the Altar, by P. Veronesp, The Daughter of Herodias with the Head of Jolm the Baptist, by Leonardo da Vinci, A wild Boar's Head, by Snyders, A Farm-yard, by Teniers. Still Life, by Roestrate, A Venetian Gentleman, by Tintoretto, A Holy Family, by Titian, A Sibyl, by Paris Bordone. Poultry, and two Flower-pieces, by Bogdani, Mary and Elizabeth, by Carlo Maratti, A Turkey Carpet, by Maltese, Hay-stacking, by Wouvermans. Two Pieces of Dead Game, by Weenix. Queen Mary^s Closet, —In this room there are some fine old portraits. Lord Darnley and his Brother, by Lucas de Heere, Queen Elizabeth, when young, by Luca Cranach, Two Daughters of Philip II., of Spain, by Zucchero» The Children of Henry VIL, by J, de Mabuse, Holbein, by Himself, The Father and Mother of Holbein. Kaskemeer, by Holbein, Frobenius, by Holbein. Two portraits of Erasmus, by Holbein, Charles II., when a boy, by Honthorst, Francis II., of France, when a boy, by Jannetle, Mary Queen of Scots, by ,Tannette, The King and Queen of Bohemia dining in public and Charles I, and Queen dining in Whitehall, by Van Basse7i, Henry VIIL, by Holbein, Francis I., of France, by Holbein, Queen Mary L, and Queen Elizabeth, when children. Henry Prince of Wales, son of James L, hunting by Lucas de Heere, HAMPTON'COUUT PALACE. 331 Prince Rupert, when a boy, by Mytens. Lady Vaux, by Holbein, The Jester of Henry VIII., by Holbein. King and Queen of Bohemia, by C. Janssen, Philip II., of Spain, and Queen Mary I., by Sir A. More. Anne of Denmark, by C. Janssen. Lady Derby, by Lucas de Heere. Sir Henry Guilford, by Holbein, A portrait, by Albert Durer, John Bellini, by Himself, Sir George Carew, by Mavk Garrard. Queen Elizabeth and the Graces, by Lucas de Heere. Queen Elizabeth, supposed to be the last portrait taken of her, by Zucchero, The Queen s Gallery. — A large room hung with Gobelin tapestry : each piece represents a scene in the history of Alexander the Great, — 1st, Alexander's triumphal entry into Babylon ; 2nd, his battle with Porus ; ord, taming Bucephalus ; 4th, his visit to Diogenes ; 5th, his con- sultation with the Soothsayers ; 6th, his battle with Darius ; 7th, the tent of Darius. King William HI., when young, by Kneller ; and his Queen Mary, when young, by Lely, The Queens Bed-room. — Here is the state-bed of Queen Anne, the rich velvet furniture and hangings of which were wrought at Spitalfields ; the chair and stools • are covered to correspond. The ceiling was painted by Sir James Thornhill, and represents Aurora rising out of the sea. James L, and his Queen, and his son Henry Prince of Wales, by Van Somers. Christian Duke of Brunswick, by Honthorst. Fenelon, Archbishop of Cambray, hy Rigaud. Peter denying Christ, by B. West. Venus and Cupid, by Ponturmo, the outline by Blichael Angela, 332 HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. Versailles, and Marli, by Van der Meulen. The Shepherd's Offering, by Palma, The Judgment of Midas, by Sdiiavone, The Deluge, by Bassano. A Holy Family, by Giorgione, A Landscape, by Poussin, A Lady, playing on the virginals, by Pordenone. Twelve pictures representing the history of Cupid and Psyche, by Luca Jordano. Duke of Wirtemberg, by Mytens, The Queen^s Drawing-room, — The ceiling, painted by Verrio, represents Queen Anne in the character of Justice. George IIL, and his Queen, Charlotte, by JB. West, The Prince of Wales, and the Duke of York, by West, His present Majesty, and the Duke of Kent, by West, The Apotheosis of the infant Princes, Octavius and Alfred, by West. The Duke of Cumberland, and two Princesses, by West, The Dukes of Cumberland, Sussex, Cambridge, and three Princesses, by West, Queen Charlotte, and Princess Royal, by West, The Oath of Hannibal, by West. The Departure of Regulus, by West. The Death of General Wolfe, by TVest. St. George and the Dragon, by West. Two subjects from the history of Cyrus, by West, The Queens Audience-chamber. — Here is the state-bed of King William III. The Apostles, Peter, James, and John, by Caravaggio, Nymphs, by Cavalier d'Arpino, A Magdalen, by Titian, Duchess of Luneberg, by Mytens,. Pilate delivering up Christ, by Schiavoni, The Death of the Chevalier Bayard, by West, Nymphs and Satyrs, by Rubens, The Death of Epaminondas, by West, Countess of Lennox, by Holbein, HAMPTON-COURT PALACE. 333 Margaret Queen of Scots, by Holbein, Peter the Great, Emperor of Russia, by Kneller. Duke and Duchess of Brunswick, by Mytens, Duke of Richmond and Lennox, by Van Somers, A Holy Family, by J, Romano, The Continence of Scipio, by S, Ricci, Henry VIII., and Family, by Holbein, Vulcan Delivering the Armour of Achilles to Thetis, and Achilles presented to the Centaur, by Antonio Balestra, Cupid shaving his bow, by Parmegiano, Venus and Adonis, by G, Chiari, The Public Dining-room, — Here is a model of a Palace, designed by George III«, for Richmond Gardens ; around the room are the Triumphs of Julius Caesar, in water- colours, by Andrea Montctgna, A Ruin, by Vivano, The Family of De Bray, by Himself, Marine View^s, by Vandervelde, George the Second's Private Chamber, — Here are some fine Flower-Pieces, by Baptiste, Fruits, by Van Aelst. Grapes, by Caravaggio, From this we enter a long gallery, which was built by Sir Christopher Wren, for the unrivalled Cartoons of Raphael, These drawings w^ere designed to serve as patterns for tapestry to decorate the Papal Chapel, according to the orders of Pope Leo X., and represent subjects taken from the Evangelists and Acts of the Apostles. They w^ere painted about 1520, and the tapestry was executed at the famous manufactory of Arras, in Flanders. The Cartoons, so called because they were painted on carta, cortona sheets of paper, were bought for Charles I., by Rubens, the painter. The first is the Death of Ananias. The second, Elymas, the sorcerer. The third, Peter and John at the Beautiful Gate. 334 HAMPTON-COUET PALACE. The fourth, the Miraculous Draught of Fishes. The fifth, Paul and Barnabas at Lystra. The sixth, Paul Preaching at Athens. And the seventh, Christ's Charge to Peter. There is a splendid set of engravings from these Car- toons, by Mr. Holloway ; and fine lithographic prints, by Mr. G. Foggo. There is also a model of a palace, in- tended by George II., for Hyde Park. In an ante-room is a drawing by Casanova, of Raphael's Transfiguration ; a portrait of John Lacy, a comedian in the reign of Charles II., by Wright; Louis XIV. on horseback; the Woman of Samaria, by Palma; the Cenotaph of Lord Darnley ; a Medallion of Henry VIII. ; a Magdalen, by Lely ; Judith with the Head of Holofernes, by Guido, The east front opens upon the public gardens, from which the visitor has a view of the Home-park, and its avenues of elm and lime-trees, reaching in a straight line to the banks of the Thames and Kingston, w^ith a lake or canal of water in the centre, nearly three-quarters of a mile in length. The gardens and park were put into their present form by Messrs. Loudon and Wise, gardeners to the king and queen, at a period when the Dutch taste was para- mount. Along this front of the palace is a broad gravel walk, leading on the right to the Thames, and on the left to a gate, called the Flowerpot-gate, wdiich opens on the Kingston-road. At the right-hand corner of the east front there is a door which opens into the 'private garden, wiiere there are two green- houses, with some rare plants, and some large orange and lemon -trees, many of them in full bearing ; but the greatest curiosity here is the large vine, certainly the largest vine in Europe, if not in the world. The house is 72 feet long, and the breadth on the rafters 22. The large vine is above 100 feet long : at 3 feet from the ground, the stem is 27 inches in cir- cumference. It is of the black Hamburgh grape, and the quantity it bears in some seasons exceeds 2,500 bunches. Southward of the palace is the Royal Tennis-court, On HAMPTON WICK. 335 passing which we come to a door which leads into the Wilderness, which was planted with trees and shrubs by King William III., so as to hide the irregularities of the northern side of the palace. The walks in this wilder- ness are very delightful, and seats are placed under some of the largest trees and in the avenues. But the great attraction here is the Maze or labyrinth, formed in the early part of King William's reign, which is productive of much amusement to visitors. No definite charge is made for viewing the palace, &c., but it is expected that each party will give the guide who shows the apartments a gratuity after the rate of about 6d. each person ; then the gardener, wdio shows the green- houses and plants, is entitled to a trifle, say od. each person ; and the maze-keeper looks for an equal fee ; so that the total tax on the pocket of each individual of a party may be said to be ls» This, however, in some cases, would be deemed shabby. One gentleman or lady going alone, or two only together, can scarcely escape for less than 3s. 6d. the two, or 'is. for an individual. The gardens are open daily, from an early hour in the morning till dark, and all persons are admitted, gratuitously, to w^alk and take their pleasure in them. A regiment of cavalry is always stationed at the palace, the band of which, on Sundays, plays some of the finest musical compositions, for the gratification of the nobility and gentry resident at the palace and in the vicinity, and of the numerous visitors who, on this day in particular, visit the spot from London and elsewhere. The sights of the palace are exhibited on Sundays as well as week days. See Hampton, Hampton Wick, and Bushey Park. HAMPTON AVICK, a village in Middlesex, imme- diately at the foot of Kingston Bridge, and adjoining the Home Park attached to Hampton-court, and Bushey Park (which see). This place (which is a hamlet to the parish of Hampton) has been much improved within these few- years, particularly by the erection of a handsome church 336 IIAN HAR. in the modem Gothic style, and of a neat terrace, which contains some good shops, formerly much wanted here. Around and in the village are many pretty cottage resi- dences, and the walks about the place are particularly pleasant, independently of the attractions of the neigh- bouring parks of. Hampton-court, Bushey, and Richmond, and the immediate proximity of the Thames and its verdant banks. Sir Richard Steele built a house here, which he whimsically denominated the Hovel ; from this place he dedicated the fourth volume of the Tatler." HAN WELL, a village in Middlesex, 8 miles west from London, on the Uxbridge road. Under the vaults of the church (a small brick-building, erected in 1782) lie the remains of the philanthropist Jonas Hanway. In the vicinity are some attractive seats ; especially Hanwell Park. In the parish register is the following curious entry : — daughter " Thomas of Thomas son Messenger and Elizabeth his wife, w^as born and baptised, Oct. 24, 1731 to which is added, in a marginal note — by the midwife, at the font, called a boy, and named by the godfather Thomas, but proved a gbl.^' The Great Western Railway crosses the road here, HANWORTH PARK, near Hounslow, is the seat of — Cuthbert, Esq., and Hanworth Little Park, of Lady Laura Tollemache. HAREFIELD, a village in Middlesex, 4^ miles north from Uxbridge, and 20 from London. This manor became the property of Sir John Newdigate (who served in the French wars in the reign of Edward III.), by his mar- riage with Joanne, daughter and sole heiress of Sir Simon de Swanland ; and is now the property of his descendant, Charles N. Newdigate, Esq. Between the years 1585 and 1675, how^ever, it was possessed by several other families, who resided In the ancient mansion called Hare- HAREFIELD, 337 field Place f which stood at a little distance from the church ; among them was Sir Edmond Anderson, Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas ; Sir Thomas Egerton, Lord -keeper of the Great Seal, afterwards, Lord EUes- mere ; and Sir William Sedley, Bart., father of the witty and profligate Sir Charles Sedley. This mansion becam.e famous on several accounts ; particularly from two visits made to the Lord-keeper Egerton by Queen Elizabeth, in the years 1601 and 1602 ; and still more so from its having been the place where Milton's masque of Arcades was first performed, before the Countess of Derby, about the year 1633, by some noble persons belonging to her family. On this occasion, it appears that the countess sat in a chair of state, as the " Rural Queen," before whom one of the characters, a pastoral bard, chaunted a song, of which the following is a stanza : — • Mark what radiant state she spreads, In circle round her shining throne. Shooting her beams like silver threads ) This, this is she alone. Sitting, like a goddess bright. In the centre of her light. George, Lord Chandos, the countess's son-in-law, who had three horses shot under him at the battle of Newbury, whilst gallantly fighting for Charles I., retired to Harefield Place, after the complete discomfiture of the royal cause, and spent the remainder of his life there, in great privacy. Llis widow, Jane, Lady Chandos, married Sir William Sedley, Bart., whose son. Sir Charles, is traditionally said to have been the occasion of the total destruction of the ancient mansion by fire, from his carelessness while read- ing in bed. Sir Richard Newdigate, Bart., rebuilt the mansion in the reign of Charles II. ; but it has now been wholly pulled down, the present owner residing at Hare- field Lodge, a modern villa, near Uxbridge. In the vici- nity are Harefield Park, General Sir George Cooke, Bart. ; Brea/c spears, Joseph Partridge, Esq, j Harefield G G 338 IIAR — HAR. GrwCy W, Flower, Esq. ; "and Sydenham Lodge, • At a short distance from the park, on the Coin river, are the extensive copper-works of Mr. Spedding. In the church of Harefield are several ancient monu- ments to the Newdigate and Ashbj families, and a costlj tomb to Alice, Countess of Derby. HARE HALL, Essex, near the hamlet of Hare-street, a mile distant from Romford, and 13 miles from London, is an elegant mansion of Portland stone, erected for J. A. Wallinger, Esq., in 1769, bj Mr. Payne, on the site of a former building. It consists of a centre, with two wings connected by colonnades ; the interior is fitted up in a handsome manner ; the larger of the two drawing-rooms is 36 feet by 20, and extends the whole length of the house, commanding pleasant views of considerable extent. Mr. Payne has been justly celebrated for the construction of staircases, and here, as at Wardour Castle, this part of the edifice displays much taste and elegance. Hare Hall is now the seat of J. Western, Esq. Near the mansion are two beautiful villas, called Hare-street Cottage and Hare Lodge ; the former, the residence of the widow of Humphrey Repton, Esq., who attained celebrity for some works on landscape-gardening, the latter, we believe, of — Jackson, Esq. HARE-STREET, contracted from HaroWs- street, a hamlet in the parish of Hornchurch, Essex, rurally situate 13 miles from London, near Romford, surrounded by agreeable scenery and genteel residences. — See Hare Hall and Romford. HARLOW, a market-town in Essex, 23 miles from London, situate pleasantly and healthfully, on the road to Newmarket. It consists chiefly of a single street, of con- siderable extent, with shops and houses, and two chapels for Dissenters, A fair of much celebrity is holden here annually, on the 9th of September, on Harlow Bush Common, and very numerously attended. On the centre of the common is Bush Fair House, where the Essex HAR HAR. 339 arcliers hold their meeting-s. A second fair, for cattle, is holden in the village on the 28th of November. The church is ornamented with the armorial bearings of many of the nobility and gentry formerly resident in the county, painted on glass, at their expense, to embellish the win- dows ; it contains several ancient inscriptions. Among others : Here lyeth the bodye of William Sumner, late tenant to John Reeve, the last Lord Abbot." Here lieth interred the body of Thomas Druncaster, principal secretary to King Henry VII., 1490.'' " Here lyeth buryed the bodye of Janne Bugge, deceased, 1582." This parish has a school of industry for boys and girls, and a Lancasterian school, with many other charities, some of great antiquity. A chapel of ease is in progress here, at Potter's-street, 3 miles from the parish church. At about a mile north-east from Harlow church is the fine old manor-house of Harlowbtiry, now the property of W. Barnard, Esq. When the lands of this parish be- longed to the monks of St. Edmondsbury (which they did from the reign of Edward the Confessor until that of Henry VIII.) this mansion is supposed to have been one of the abbot's resting-places, on his way to parliament. Near the house was a large chapel, which is now used as a barn, but is, notwithstanding, well preserved. Near Harlow Church is Brent Hall, or New Hall, and within a mile and a half northward is Ketchin Hall, both old manors, and now the property of William Bott, Esq. — See also Moore Hall, Down Hall, and Nether Hall, HARMONDSWORTH, a village m Middlesex, 2 miles E. of Colnbrook, and 15 from London, is noted for one of the largest barns in England, supported by pillars of stone, and thought to be of great antiquity. Its length is 191 feet, its breadth 38. There was anciently an alien priory of Benedictine Monks here. HARROW ON THE HILL, in Middlesex, 10 miles N.W. from London, on the highest hill in the count}^ This hill affords a variety of beautiful prospects. The 340 HARROW ON THE HILL. view toward the east is terminated by the metropolis ; to the south by the Surrey hills. Toward the north it is the least extensive, being intercepted by the high ground about Stanmore and Harrow-weald : on this side, the village of Stanmore and Kentley Priory (the Marquess of Abercorn's seat) are the most conspicuous objects. The view toward the west and south-west, which is very ex- tensive and beautiful, may be seen to the greatest ad- vantage from the church-yard ; the distant prospect takes in Windsor Castle, and a considerable part of Berks, and Bucks. On the brow of the hill, descending to Sudbury Common, is a small villa, belonging to Charles Hamilton, Esq., with a beautiful garden and shrubbery, which com- mand nearly the same prospect. On the brow of Sudbury Hill is a villa, called the Hermitage, once in the occupation of Mrs. Roberts, Wembley Parky in the hamlet of Wembley, was the property of Bichard Page, Esq., de- ceased, whose family had been resident proprietors for two centuries and a half. The present owner is John Grey, Esq., who rebuilt the mansion, in an elegant style, about the year 1811. On an eminence opposite, called Barn Hillj is an unfinished building, commanding a beau- tiful view, erected by the late Mr. Page, and called his Folly. At the entrance of the village is the parsonage, Rev. J. W, Cunningham ; the Manor House, Rev. J. Batten ; in tlie village, the Grove, A. Campbell, Esq. ; Julian Hill, Rev. J. T. Noel, and the beautiful seat of Col. M. Murray. The parish church, with its lofty spire, forms a very conspicuous object; it was originally built by Archbishop Lanfranc, in the time of the Conqueror ; and some part of his church is yet standing. The celebrated physician and poet. Dr. Sir Samuel Garth, has a monument here. But Harrow is chiefly celebrated for its free grammar- school, which now ranks among the first public seminaries in the kingdom. Hence Sir William Jones, Dr. Samuel Parr (who was born at Harrow, January 9.6, 1746-47), HAT — HAT. 341 Hichard Brinsley Sheridan, Earl Spencer, the Marquess of Hastings, Mr, Perceval, Lord Byron, the Earl of Aber- deen, Sir Robert Peel, and other luminaries, have issued forth to enlighten and improve the world. It was founded, in the reign of Elizabeth, by John Lyon, a wealthy yeoman of Preston, in this parish. The residence of the head-master is a spacious and very elegant edifice. HATCHAM, a hamlet of the parish of Camberwell, Surrey, situate chiefly in the Kent-road, between New Cross turnpike and New Cross. Here are the seats of — Holcombe, Esq. ; — Lucas, Esq. ; and the handsome re- sidence of Mr. Edmeades. HATFIELD, a market- town in Herts, 9 miles north from Barnet, and 19 from London ; containing some com- modious inns, and presenting a very neat and clean ap- pearance. In the church is a curious monument to Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury. The place is sometimes called Bishop's Hatfield, from its having anciently belonged to the Bishops of Ely, who had a palace here (now Hat' Jield House) which afterwards became a royal residence, until James I. gave it to the first Earl of Salisbury in exchange for the estate of Theobalds. Hatfield House, now the seat of the Marquess of Salisbur3% was anciently part of the demesne of the Saxon princes, till it was bestowed by King Edgar on the monks of Ely, in whose possession it continued until the reign of Henry I., when the monastery of Ely was converted into a bishopric^ It then became one of the residences of the bishops. In the reign of Elizabeth, it was alienated to the crown ; but it is stated to have been an occasional royal residence before that period. William of Hatfield, second son of Edward HI., was born here ; Queen Elizabeth resided here for many years before she came to the crown, and was conducted hence to ascend the throne. The present magnificent seat was built by Sir Robert Cecil, afterwards Earl of Salis- bury, immediately after the estate was assigned to him in 342 HAVERING BOWER, &C. exchange for Theobalds. The mansion, which stands on the site of the ancient episcopal palace, is built of brick, in the form of a half FL In the centre is a portico of nine arches, and a lofty tower, bearing the date 1611. The structure has an air of venerable grandeur. The noble founder inclosed two parks ; one for red, and the other for fallow deer. In the first he planted a fine vine- yard, which was in existence in the reign of Charles I. The deer are still numerous, and the park is finely diver- sified in surface, and varied in scenery, boasting of some of the finest timber in the county. Many of the apart- ments are of noble dimensions, and are adorned with a rich collection of paintings; among which, are portraits of the Lord-Treasurer Burleigh, and his son, the first Earl of Salisbury. There is also a very curious painting of Queen Elizabeth, and a singular representation, on board, of Henry VIII. and his Queen Anne Boleyne at a country fair. The park and pleasure-grounds are several miles in circumference, and are watered on the north by the river Lea. The library is extensive and valuable ; it contains a collection of no less than 13,000 MS. articles, from the reign of Henry VIII. to that of James L, the historical MSS. of whose reign are curious ; they include, among other valuable articles, the actual draft of the pro- clamation declaring James King of England, in the hand- writing of Sir Robert Cecil, bearing numerous marks of revision, and a warrant addressed to the lieutenant of the tower, signed by the principal nobility, as well as the council, that his majesty should be proclaimed by him within his precinct. In November, 1835, a fire broke out at this noble man- sion, and that part of the west wing facing the fine avenue of trees by which the house is approached, was en- tirely gutted. The Dowager- Marchioness of Salisbury (in whose apartment the fire commenced) perished in the flames. HAVERING BOWER, or Havkring^Attebowjlr, a HAVEKING BOWER, &C. 343 village in Essex, 3 miles north from Romford, in the parish of Hornchurch, and liberty of Havering-, was a seat of some of our Saxon kings, particularly of the credulous Edward the Confessor, who took great delight in it, as being woody, solitary, and fit for devotion. ** It so abounded," says the old legend, with warbling night- ingales, that they disturbed him in his devotions. He therefore earnestly prayed for their absence ; since which time never nightingale was heard to sing in the park, but many without the pales, as in other places." The name of this liberty is supposed to have been taken from the Saxon, in which language havering signifies the goats^ing, or meadow. But the more general belief is," says Mr. Wright, in his History of Essex," that its origin has been from a ring given to Edward the Con- fessor by a pilgrim, according to an ancient romantic legend, the substance of which is, that St. John the Evangelist, disguised as an old beggar, asking alms of King- Edward, received from him a ring as the only possession he had at that time to bestow ; and which, some years afterwards, was returned to him by two English pilgrims, with an intimation that he should die within six months ; and this message was delivered to him here at his Bower, which, on that account, was named Have-Ring,'' Shady walks and a beautiful grove of trees have given the addi- tion of Bower to this place ; and some remains are yet to be seen of the ancient palace, said to have been built or improved by the Confessor, and afterwards inhabited by several kings. It is delightfully situated, with a fine ex- tensive prospect over a great part of Essex, Hertfordshire, Kent, Middlesex, and Surrey ; also a view of the Thames, on which the ships are seen in constant motion, with the cathedral of St. Paul's perceptible in the distance. The park contained about 1,000 acres, and is now the property of the crown. Besides the palace at Havering, there was anciently 344 HAY HED. another at Pirgo, which see. The neighhotirhood round Havering- is thickly studded with gentlemen's seats, too numerous to particularise, and frequently changing owners. — But see Bedfords, Ebnes, and Dagenhams. The ancient royal chapel of Havering is near the site of the royal palace. It is now a perpetual curacy, and en- dowed with 400/. private benefaction, and 600/. royal bounty. HAYES, a village in Middlesex, 3i miles south of Uxbridge, and 13 from London. In this parish are Hayes Park, and a fine old mansion in which Mr. Alderman Combe formerly resided. The church contains some good monuments. HAYES PLACE, If miles south of Bromley, Kent, now the seat of Mrs. Dehaney, is noted as having been the villa of the great Earl of Chatham, and the birth-place of his celebrated son, the Right Hon. W. Pitt. HEARTS, a modern mansion, on the site of an old one, near Woodford, Essex, lately the seat of Wm. Mellish, Esq. The original edifice was built about A.D. 1600, by Sir Humphrey Handsforth, master of the wardrobe to King James I., who frequently breakfasted here before hunting in the forest. The present mansion was erected by the Rev. Sir Sam. Clarke Jervoise, Bart. By marriage, this estate was formerly the property of the Onslow family, and the celebrated Speaker of the House of Commons, of that name, Vvas born here. When the Onslows removed into Surrey, this estate was sold. It was afterwards possessed by Richard War^^er, Esq., who had a botanical garden here, and cultivated rare exotics, the result of which was the work published by him, and privately circulated, en- titled " Plantae Woodfordiensis." HEDSOR LODGE, 4 miles S. W. of Beaconsfield, Bucks, is the seat of Lord Boston. The mansion is exter- nally noble, and internally commodious and appropriately decorated. The grounds are formed, partly by nature and HEMEL HEMPSTED, 345 j)art]y by art, into high sloping hills and deep valleys, and are ornamented with a great variety of woods, advan- tageously distributed. HEMEL HEMPSTED, a market-town in Herts, 224 miles N. W. from London, situate on the river Gade, con- tiguous to the Grand Junction Canal. The market, which is still a good one, was formerly esteemed one of the largest in England for wheat. The church exhibits some remains of Norman architecture, and contains some ancient monu- ments. HENDON, a village in Middlesex, 7 miles N. N. W. from London, situate on the Brent. In the church-yard is the following singular epitaph (written by himself), in memory of Robert Thomas Crosfield, M. D., who died 8th of November, 1802, aged 44 years. Beneath this stone Tom Crosfield lies. Who cares not now who laughs or cries; He laugh'd when sober, and, when mellow. Was a harum-scarum heedless fellow : He gave to none design'd offence ; So Honi soit qui mal y pense !" Another strange inscription in Hendon Church-yard, is as follows : — Poor Ralph lies beneath this roof, and sure he must be blest. For though he could do nothing, he meant to do the best. Think of your soules, ye guilty throng, Who, knowing what is right, do wrong. Here, also, is an altar- tomb, in memory bf Sir Joseph Ayliffe, Bart., F.A.S., the celebrated antiquary, who, lies buried in a vault beneath the church. Within the church is the monument of Edmund Fowler, Bishop of Gloucester, who died August 26, 1714 ; and, near it, another large one, in commemoration of Sir William Rawlingson, Knt., one of the Commissioners of the Great Seal, obiit 11 May, 1703. Here, likewise, is a pleasing monument, by Flax- 346 HEX HER. man, of the Colmore family, of Warwickshire. The font is very ancient, and apparently Norman. HENDON PLACE, is a large and elegant structure, consisting of a centre and two wings, attached to which, by means of a light arcade, is a noble ball-room. The grounds are delightfully undulating in surface, very handsomely wooded, and are watered by the Brent. This fine seat was lately the residence of Lord Chief Justice Tenterden. During the last century, there was a remarkable cedar-tree in the grounds, upwards of 70 feet high. The diameter of the horizontal extent of the branches was 100 feet; the circumference of part of the trunk, 20 feet ; and the limbs from 6 to 12 feet in girth. This tree was blown down in 1779 ; the year preceding which, the gardener is said to have made 50/. by sale of the cones ! On the London side of the village, is Brent Bridge fJouse, T. More, Esq., and the villa of — Barnes, Esq. In the village, S/are Hall Hozise, - — Prescctt, Esq. ; He?2dou House y — Price, Esq. ; the Vicarage y Rev. Mr. Williams, and the residencies of — Woodburne, Esq., W. Burrell, Esq., and Miss Lockyer. — See Mill Hill, HERNE HILL, beyond the village of Camberwell, but nearer to the village of Dulwich and Norwood, a spot containing numerous genteel residences. Among the most conspicuous, is that of W. Pulley, Esq. HERSHAM, a hamlet to the parish of Walton, Surrey, situate between that village and Esher. Here Lilly, the astrologer, resided. Hersham Green is skirted by numer- ous villa residences and small farms ; and the whole hamlet is particularly rural and pleasant. HERTFORD, Herts, 21 miles north from London, is pleasantly situate on the river Lea, which is navigable. The streets which are neat and well built, are disposed in the form of the letter Y, the ancient castle standing in the middle of the two horns. Here are two parish-churches, a handsome sessions -house, in which the assizes are holden, a market-house, and town-hall ; the quarter-sessions and HER — HES. 347 county-courts being kept in the latter. The only manu- factured article is malt, by which, and the large quantities of corn and wool sent down the river to the metropolis, the inhabitants are principally supported. The public seminaries for education, in and near Hertford, are of the most respectable class ; consisting of a college for the edu- cation of youth destined to fill the various offices in the civil departments in India (see Hailyhury College), and pi large school, called the Buildings, belonging to Christ's'' ^Hospital, in London, where about 500 of the younger ( children are kept for a certain number of years, prior to 1^ their being sent to town. The charities consist of an ex- cellent free grammar-school, having seven scholarships at Peter-house, Cambridge ; a charity-school under the ma- nagement of the corporation, and a Sunday- school. Some years ago, a county-gaol, and penitentiary -house, were erected here on Mr. Howard's plan. Hertford returns two members to parliament. Market on Saturday. This town was of some note in the time of the ancient Britons ; and afterwards accounted one of the principal cities of the East Saxons, where their kings often kept their court, and a parliamentary council was held in 673. The Lea was once navigable here for shipping. In 879 the Danes erected two forts for the security of their ships ; but Alfred turned the course of the stream, so that the vessels were left on dry ground, which so terrified them that they aban- doned their forts and fled. Edward, the eldest son of Alfred, built a castle, which has been often a royal resi- dence, but very little, if any, of the original structure now remains. The whole has been surrounded by a deep moat. In the parish of Little St. John is the New River Head ; and near the town are many handsome villas ; particularly Bayfordbury , BalVs Park, Golden' s, Hertingfordbury , and Brickendenbury Park, HESTON, a village in Middlesex, If miles N. W. of Hounslovv, and 10^ from London, is noted for the produc- 348 niG — HIG. tion of excellent wheat, with bread made from which the royal table was supplied, says Camden, before his time. The wheat grown here is still reputed to be the best in Middlesex. The soil is a strong loam. HIG^IAM HALL, or HIGH AM BENSTED, an ancient manorial estate, about II mile N.W. from Walthamstow Church, is traced to an owner in the time of Edward the Confessor. From the reign of Henry IT. to that of Henry VIL, it belonged' to the family of Bensted, whence that addition to the name of Higham, which is itself derived from the site of the manor-house on an eminence. In 1494, this estate belonged to Sir Thos. Level ; in 1521, it had become the property of Sir John Heron, by whose descendants it w^as conveyed, in 1566, to Sir Thos. Rowe, Lord Mayor of London, in 1568. It afterwards belonged to Richard Newman, Esq., Sheriff of Essex, in 1762, who sold it to Anthony Bacon, Esq., M. P. for Aylesbury, This gentleman erected the mansion, which is a square brick building with wings, seated on a high ridge of ground, commanding extensive and very beautiful prospects. To the west is a fine park, ending in a sheet of w^ater, and bounded north and south by parts of Epping Forest. Mr. Bacon sold this seat to John Biggen, Esq., whose widow, in 1785, sold it by auction to Wm. Hornby, Esq., Governor of Bombay, who much improved it, but, in 1790, sold it to John Harman, Esq. This gentleman enlarged and altered both the house and grounds, at a great expense, the grounds in particular having been much beautified by the taste of Mr. Repton, the landscape-gardener. Higham is now the seat of Jeremiah Harman, Esq. HIGHBURY, a pleasant portion of the parish of Isling* ton, situate about three quarters of a mile north of Isling- ton Church, on a commanding eminence. Highbury-place and Terrace are both most desirable places of residence, each row containing about fifty houses, all of a good class, with open fields before and around them, (the freehold of which has been purchased in order to keep them open) HIGIIGATE. 349 large gardens, &c. A little beyond is a well-known house of entertainment^ called Highbury Barn, so named from the principal room (now pulled down), having once been a barn ; the new dining saloon is one of the largest rooms in the neighbourhood of London ; the grounds are well laid out, and the establishment is well adapted for enter- tainments, on the largest scale ; somewhat farther north is a college for the education of Presbyterian ministers. On this spot many genteel villas already exist, and others are rapidly rising. From the springs of Highbury and its immediate vicinity, the City of London was anciently sup- plied with water. At Highbury-place, No. 38, where he had resided 17 years, died the celebrated Abraham Newland, Esq., chief cashier of the Bank of England. He was the son of a baker in Castle-street, Southwark, where he was born in April, 1730 ; he died Nov. 21, 1807, and is buried in Islington Church. HIGHGATE, a populous village 4^ miles N.N.W. from London, lying in the two parishes of Hornsey and Pancras ; the chapel and two-thirds of the village being in Hornsey, and the rest in Pancras. It is said to have derived its name from its elevated situation, and a gate erected here in the l5th century, on an old road from Gray's-inn-lane to Barnet, for the purpose of collecting tolls for the Bishops of London, through whose park the road was turned. On the site of this toll-gate was once a hermitage j near w^hich. Sir Roger Cholmondeley, Lord Chief Justice of the Queen's Bench, built a free-school in 1562, and endowed it with estates, which now produce about 200/. a year. The chapel adjoining the school was built in 1565, and having been enlarged, since its first erection, by sundry benefactions, it afterwards became the chapel of ease to Hornsey ; and the master of the school was reader at the chapel, and afternoon preacher. A new church, however, has been built here within these few years, in the pointed style. It stands on the summit of Highgate-hill, near II H 350 HrGHHATt^. the pond y and forms a picturesque object for ihany miles round. There are several scholastic establishments at Highgate, of much eminence ; and among- them is a boarding-school, with a synagogue attached, for the sons of Jews. This is the only institution of the kind in England, with the ex- ception of a small academy at Brighton. The steep acclivity of High gate-hill, which in some parts rises 3 inches in every yard, had long rendered it desirable for travellers to find some method of obviating the inconveniences it occasioned. A new road was there- fore devised, about 1808, to branch off near Whittington's Stone, at Upper Holloway, and be carried on by a Tunnel^ through the hill, for about 300 yards, from which the road was to proceed to the north-eastward of Highgate, and again unite with the great north-road, between the 5th and 6th mile-stone. This undertaking was commenced in the latter part of the following year, under the authority of an act of Parliament, and a subterraneous passage, or tunnel, 24 feet high, and 22 feet wide, arched with brick, was progressively carried on, till April, 1812, when, on the morning of the 13th, before the workmen had resumed their labours, some of the brick-work gave way ; about noon, the ground over the tunnel was perceived to crack: and settle, and the whole arch, which had been carried to an extent of 130 yards, fell in during that and the following day. Not a single person w^ashuit; a circumstance the more noticed, as, on the preceding Sunday, several hun- dred persons had visited the works from curiosity. This accident induced the proprietors to alter their plan ; and an open road was formed on the line of the tunnel, the acclivity of which is so gradual, that carriages experience but little inconvenience in ascending it. In one part, where it was necessary to continue the thoroughfare of Hornsey-lane, an elevated archway has been constructed, tlie main piers being of stone, flanked with substantial brick-work, and surmounted by three low arches, above HIGHGATE. 351 which is a good road, or bridge, of sufficient width for two carriages to pass abreast. The main arch is about 36 feet high, and 18 feet wide. In making the excavation for the tunnel, it was found that the basis of the hill was a vast mound of ferruginous claj, of a dark-bluish grey colour below, and a yellowish brown towards the surface. Nu- merous fossils were dug up, as septaria, the teeth of fish, &c, ; petrified wood, which had been pierced by ship- w^orms ; pieces of a peculiar resinous substance ; and various indurated fruits were found : the latter agreeing with the fossils of the Isle of Sheppy, in Kent, and of South End, in Essex. The view over London from the pathway of the bridge, which is bordered w^ith handsome balustrades, is very grand. This archway was first opened for passengers and carriages, on the 21st of August, 1813 ; above the arch is the following inscription, in Roman capitals : Geo. Ayg, Fre. WallicE Pr, Regis, Sceptra, Gerenti ; and on a corner-stone, at bottom, are the words, This stone was laid 31st October, 1812." At the southern entrance to the archway road stands the Mercers' Almshouses, a handsome modern building, in the Tudor style, consisting of| three sides of a quadrangle, with a chapel in the centre. The custom, which did prevail for man}'- years, of im- posing a kind of burlesque oath on all strangers on their first visit to Highgate, is well known. For this purpose, a pair of horns (on which the oath is administered) is still kept in almost every inn in the place, though this piece of fun, like most^others, has sunk into disuetude or contempt. The oath did not impose any very disagreeable obligations — merely binding the swearer not to drink small beer when he could get strong, not to kiss the maid when he could kiss the mistress, and so on ; when the phrase applied to a man for whose taste the best things were good enough — ** he has been sworn at Highgate." Several of the gentry and opulent merchants of the metropolis have very elegant seats at and around Highgate. 352 HIG IIIL. On the right of the hill, from Kentish Town, is Holly Lodge, with extensive pleasure-grounds, a seat of the Duke and Duchess of St. Alhan's. The villa was built by Sir Wm. Ashurst, Lord Mayor of London, in 1694. Sir Thos. Walker, accountant-general, afterwards possessed it ; and it was subsequently, for many years, the seat of the late Thos. Coutts, Esq., whose rich widow married the Duke of St. Alhan's. — See Caen Wood, HIGH ONGAR.— See Ongar. HIGH WOOD HILL, a commanding eminence in the parish of Hendon, Middlesex, noted for the spring of chalybeate water, and for several attractive villas. HILL HALL, near Epping, but in the parish of Thoy- don Mount, is the ancient seat of the Smyth family. The mansion is quadrangular, ornamented in front, with three- quarter pillars, and encompassed with a neat cornice. The interior is exceedingly elegant, both in architectural decoration, and in furniture. The great hall contains some ancient armour and arms, with family portraits and heraldic insignia. There is a handsome park surrounding the Jjouse, the approach to which from the north, is by a fine avenue of trees. This manorial possession w^as held by Godric, a Saxon, before the Conquest : in 1486, it was held by Thomas Hampden, and then first called Hill Hall ; Sir John Hampden, a descendant, had no issue, and his widow married Sir Thos. Smyth, who died in 1577, since which this estate has vested in the Smyth family. The present mansion, which is on the site of a former, was commenced by Sir Thos. Smyth in 1548, and finished according to directions left in his will : it has since, how- ever, been considerably altered. The present possessor of ^ this estate is Sir John Smyth, the ninth baronet of this family, alleged to be descended from a natural son of Edward the Black Prince. HILLINGDON, Great and Little, two villages in Mid- dlesex, about a mile from Uxbridge. In the church and church-yard of Great Hillingdon, are numerous monuments ; 353 iimong tliemone in memory of the celebrated Rich, who died in 1761. On the Heath, is an elegant villa, in the Italian style, erected for the Count de Salis ; and at Little Hil- ling-don is Hillingdon House, the seat of K. H. Cox, Esq. The house stands on a gentle ascent, and forms a con- spicuous and pleasing object from the high road. The grounds are extensive, well wooded, and tastefully diver- sified. Through them runs the river Coin, which has been artificially expanded at considerable cost. HODDESDON, a chapelry and market-town in the parishes of Amwell and Broxbourn, Herts, situate on the river Lea, and consequently very attractive to the lover of angling. It is 17 miles north from London, and is distin- guished by a fountain in the centre of the village, a curious old wooden market-house, and several residences of the time of Elizabeth and James I. One of these, called Champion House, was for a long time the residence of the Dymock family, who possess an hereditary right to the office of champion at the coronation of our sovereigns — a right exercised, probably for the last time, at the coronation of King George IV. The town has a market on Thursdays, and boasts of a good incorporated grammar-school and two Sunday-schools. In the vicinity is a large cotton-mill, and around the town are several pretty seats. HOLLAND HOUSE, the seat of Lord Holland, is situate beyond Kensington Gravel Pits, 2 miles from Hyde Park Corner, and presents a venerable and interesting appearance from the public road. It was built by Sir Walter Cope in 1607, and named after his son-in-law Henry Rich, Earl of Holland. The architecture furnishes an ex- cellent specimen of the style of building which prevailed at the commencement of the 17th century. The general form of the edifice is that of a half H, which it still retains, though many alterations have been made in minor points to suit the taste or convenience of successive proprietors. 'J'he man of literature, the politician, and all lovers of genius and patriotism, cannot fail to feel a lively interest in the H II 3 354 HOLLAND HOUSE. contemplation of this venerable structure, when thej re- flect that it was the residence of Addison, who here breathed his last, and the spot where the celebrated Fox first imbibed those principles of liberality and independ- ence, for which he will ever be noted in the annals of his country. Mr. Addison became possessed of this mansion in 1716, bj his intermarriage with Charlotte, Countess Dowager of Warwick and Holland. Here was the scene of his last moments, and of his affecting interview with his son-in-law, (communicated to the world by Dr. Edward Young,) the Earl of Warwick, to whom he had been tutor, and whose licentiousness of manners he had anxiously, but in vain, endeavoured to repress. As a last effort, he sent for him into the room where he lay at the point of death , hoping that the solemnity of the scene might make some impression upon him. When that young nobleman came, he requested to know his commands, and received the me- morable answer, See in what peace a Christian can die !" to which Tickell thus alludes : — He taught us how to live ; and oh ! too high A price for knowledge, taught us how to die ! On the death of this young nobleman, in 1721, unmarried, his estates devolved to the father of the present Lord Ken- sington, (maternalljr descended from Robert Rich, Earl of Warwick,) who sold it, about 1762, to the Right Hon. Henry Fox, afterwards Lord Holland, the early years of whose patriotic son, the late Right Hon. C. J. Fox, were passed chiefly at this mansion, and whose nephew, the present Lord Holland, is now owner of this estate. The apartments are in general capacious and of good proportions. The library, which is about 105 feet in length, was originally fitted up by the first Lord Holland as a pic- ture-gallery ; but has had its destination changed by his present lordship. The collection of books is extensive, and worthy of the well-known literary taste of the noble proprietor. ?ome very valuable busts and pictures orna- HOLLOWAY. 355 ment the different rooms. The grounds include about 300 acres ; of which about 63 acres are disposed into pleasure- gardens, &c. Over a rural seat the following lines have been placed by Lord Holland, from respect to the author of the Pleasures of Memory." Here Rogers sat — and here for ever dwell With me, those Pleasures which he sang so well. HOLLOWAY, Upper and Lower, two large and still increasing hamlets of the parish of Islington, lying on the road leading from Highbury-place to Highgate, with which village Upper Holloway may be now said to be connected. On the left hand side of the road is a very elegant chapel of ease, with most extensive burial-ground, constructed, at a very heavy expense, in 1814 ; and about a mile further, is another, St. John's church, of more recent erection, for the accommodation of the inhabitants of Upper Holloway — a light modern Gothic structure, situate in the vale, and forming a very picturesque object in the views from the hills around it. In both of these hamlets are many very excellent houses, more especially, now, at Upper Holloway, where the buildings are very rapidly increasing-. The communication between this and other parts of the suburbs of London, has been much facilitated of late years by means of new roads. One, called the Chalk Road, from its being formed chiefly of that material, leads direct from King's Cross, to the King's Head, at Holloway ; another, called the Seven Sisters' Road, (from seven high trees so named at the London side of Tottenham) leads from Tot- tenham to the same point at Holloway, and thence through Camden Road^ and Park-street, Camden-town, to the Re- gent's-park. In the Chalk-road is the Caledonian Asylum, a structure of showy exterior, in which about 100 Scotch boys are lodged, fed, clothed, and educated, at an expense of about 101. per annum each. They wear their national plaid and petticoat, and go bare-legged for the greater por- tion of the year, being accommodated with trousers in the 356 II OL — IIOM. severest weather only. What their fare may be we do not know ; but their healthful and happy looks attest the care that is taken of them. It is a treat to see them marching to or from their church in Sidmouth-street, on a Sunday morning. The late Mr. Irving used to take great interest in these children. Holloway was once famous for its cheeseca/ces, which were cried through London streets, by a man on horse- back, little more than a century ago. HOLMSDALE, a woody tract, extending from Reigate in Surrey, along the hills, into Kent and so called, because it is a valley, between two hills, abounding with wood, as the word holm in the Saxon imports, " In this vale," says Lambarde, the historian of Kent, " the people of Kent anciently assembled themselves, and gave the Danes a most sharp and fierce encounter, and after a long fight conquered them. This victory, and another at Otford, in the same valley, begat, the vaunting bye-word, used even still among the inhabitants of this vale, of The vale of Holmesdale, Never won, nor never shall." HOLWOOD HOUSE, Kent, 5 miles south from Brom- ley, formerly the seat of the Right Hon. William Pitt, is at present inhabited by John Ward, Esq. The grounds are extremely fine. Part of the Roman camp at Keston is inclosed in the grounds : and hence is one of the most de- lightful prospects in the county. — See Keston, HOMERTON, a hamlet of the parish of Hackney, Middlesex, and adjoining its eastern portion. It is low and marshy, yet contains some respectable houses, and presents a neat and somewhat rural appearance. Here is an academy for the education of Calvinistic ministers, and a row of almshouses, called the " Widows' Retreat," f(»r twelve widov,'S of dissenting ministers. It was founded in 1812, by Mr, Sam. Robinson. HOR'nCHURCII, a parish and village in Essex, The HORNCHURCH. 357 village is about 2 miles from Romford, and 14 from London, and contains an iron-foundry and an extensive ^manufac- ture of bricks. It was anciently famous for pelt-mongers or skinners, whence, in the time of Henry II., the main street was called Pelt street. The name of this place is derived from the horns fixed on the side of the church, of which we shall presently speak. The church of this parish, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a spacious and lofty stone edifice, with a spire 170 feet high. It has a beautiful painted window at the east-end, renovated, a few years since, by the late incumbent, the reverend J. W alker. In the high chancel are epitaphs to sevwal persons j among- the rest, to Peerce Tenante, Esq., servant to our late Sovereign King Edward VI., and to Queen Mary, and also gentleman-usher in ordinary, the space of 32 years, to our sovereign lady. Queen Elizabeth ; he died November, 1560, aged 70" — •** Omphry Dry wood, 1595"—'' Thomas Drywood, 1591"—*^ Thomas Wither- inges, Esq., chief postmaster of Great Britain and foreign parts, who died in 1651" — '' The Right Hon. Thomas Glut- terbuck, treasurer of the navy in the reign of George I." In the south aisle, " Humphry Rye, citize^i and writer of the court letters^ and attorney of the Common Pleas, died 1625" — in the south chancel, to Lady Margaret Prujean, Thomas Prujean, M.D.,herson, and Sir Fras. Prujean, Knt., M.D. \ and against the south wall an inscription to Mrs. Aylett, the prmcipal benefactress to this parish, died 1731." This lady, we find, bequeathed 10/, per an- num to provide a master for a charity-school for ten boys ; and she has actually, since 1731, remained " the principal benefactress to this parish." Against the east wall of the church, there is affixed a carved figure of a huWs head with large gilt horns. The reason for thus decorating the church, is assigned by the vulgar to a very silly story current here, which it were idle to repeat. The fact appears to be, that the bulPs head was the crest of the hospitallers of St. Bernand de 358 IIOR — IIOR; Monte Jovis, in Savoy, to whom King Henry II. gave this manor and church, founding also a hospital or cell here, for their use. This gift was confirmed by Richard I. and Henry HI., the latter monarch terming them Ma- gister et Fratres de Monasterio Cornuto" — master and brothers of the horned monastery. In confiirmation of this origin, the church itself, until the reign of Henry 11., was called Havering Church : after that time, it is styled in records Cornntiim Monaster iumy and Cornufa Ecclesia — the horned monastery or church. The revenues of these possessions were purchased by William of Wickham, for the endowment of New College, Oxford, who are now the patrons of the vicarage of Hornchurch. Near the village, are several handsome seats — ('see Ebnes, Gidea Hall, Bedfords^) besides genteel villas, too numerous for notice. HORNDON ON THE HILL, a parish and village in Essex, 24 miles from London, situate, as the name imports, on an eminence, from which the prospect is extensive and beautiful. From the summit, a valley is seen extending to the right and left, in which London is discerned in the distance, with Gravesend and the coast and hills of Kent, Tilbury Fort, and numerous villages on the Essex shore, the Nore and Sheerness. The village is small ; it had formerly a market, and two fairs for wool ; these have long since been discontinued. The church is n the centre of the village ; it formerly belonged to Barking Abbey. On a decayed monument is the following inscription : — " Take, gentle marble, to thy trust. And keep unmix'd this sacred dust; Grow moist sometimes, that I may see Thou weep'st in sympathy with me; And when by him I here shall sleep. My ashes also safely keep. And from rude hands preserve us both, until AVe rise to Sion's mount, from Horndon on the Hill." HORNSEY, a quiet rural village in Middlesex, 5 miles HOR HOR. 359 north from London, containing numerous very pretty villas, and some elegant seats. The village is long and straggling, and situate for the most part in a vale, (almost surrounded by Hills,) \vl ich is rendered the more pleasant, by the New River winding through it, adding greatly to the beauty of many of the gardens and pleasure grounds. The place was anciently called Haringhee, and the Bishop of London had an elegant palace here, out of part of the mate- rials of which, it is said, the old church was built. Between this place and Highbury Barn, is a small coppice, on the bank of the New River, called Hornsey Wood, ad- joining it is a noted house of entertainment, with ex- tensive grounds, called Hornsey Wood House, which, in fine weather, is the favourite resort of many persons, on ac- count of its pleasant situation. Thence, along the New- River, to the Sl?Mce House, and, in the other direction, to- wards Hornsey village, are famous banks for the young angler to practise fly-fisliing. Hornsey Church (which may be said to be in the centre of the village) stands near a bridge under which the New River flows. It is of considerable antiquity, and its tower is a handsome object. The body of the church, which is certainly a pretty Gothic structure, has recently undergone great repairs and alterations ; and, among others, its exte- rior has been painted in imitation of the stone tower — an attempt which has excited some ridicule. Here, near the foot of Muswell Hill (which see) is The Priory, a handsome Gothic building, the residence of Henry Warner, Esq. ; eastward from the church, and lower down the river, is Haringay Flame, the elegant seat of H. Gray, Esq. — See Crouch End, HORSLEY EAST, is a mile eastward of West Horsley, and also a pleasant village. The church is a small edifice, of Norman architecture, with three lancet windows on each side, and contains some ancient and curious inscriptions and effigies. In this parish is Hcrsley Place, the elegant seat of W. Carne, Esq. 360 HOR IIOU. KOllSLEY, WEST, a very neat village in Surrey, 23 miles from London, and 4 from Leatherhead. The church, which stands on the high road from Guildford to Epsom, is of considerable antiquity, and contains some curious inscriptions. One of the aisles is appropriated as a burial-place for the possessors of the manor, of which Sir Walter Raleigh was for some time lord, and in it is interred Carew Raleigh, Esq., son of Sir Walter. On digging a grave here next to his coffin, a human skull, without any other bones or covering, w^as found in a niche in the rock of chalk, only just large enough to contain it. This is supposed to have been that of Sir Walter Raleigh, whose son brought it to this place, and is said to have preserved it with the intention of having it buried with himself. The ancient seat of the family is called the Sheep Leze, and is now with the manor, the property of Mr. Weston. HORTON, an inconsiderable village in Bucks, 1 mile from Colnbrook, and 17^ from London, deriving some lustre from the fact that the poet Milton, after leaving the Uni- versity, resided in the manor-house here, with his father, for 5 years. His mother lies buried in the chancel of the church. HOUNSLOW, a market-town in Middlesex, in the parishes of Isleworth and Heston, 10 miles W. from Lon- don, situate on a branch of the river Coin. The southern portion of the town is in the parish of Isleworth ; the northern, in that of Heston, to which this part is a chapelry. Hounslow stands on the edge of a heath w^hich bears its name, nearly the whole of which is now inclosed and cul- tivated, and on the sides of the great roads which cross it, many houses have been erected. There are barracks for 400 cavalry, erected in 1793 ; and, towards w^hat used to be the middle of the heath, some extensive powder-mills ; not far distant from which, are copper-mills. The towTi consists chiefly of a single long street, with very numerous public bouses. In it was formerly a priory, which belonged to the brethren of the Holy Trinity, whose iiox — iLr, 361 pt^culmr office it was to soHcit alms for the redemptiou of caj)tives. No remains of tliis estublisliment are now to be seen. The heath bears many vestiges of ancient encamp- ments ; it was long- celebrated for military reviews, and not much less for the revolting exhibition of bull-baits. The posting-business of Hounslow is very extensive. HOXTON, a small village in the parish of Shored itch, IVIiddlesex, and extending thence towards Islington. ]t was formerly a place of some consequence, as the nume- rous old mansions in it v/ill testify. It has now, however, long since fallen from its high estate its grand houses are converted into schooL-s and receptacles for lunatics, and its modern ones are of the second and third-rate class. Here are some very excellent almshouses of the Haber- dashers' Company, and some others. A new church has been erected here within these few years, on what is tei med the New North -road. HUNSDON, a parish in Herts, 4 miles N.E. from Hod- desdon, and '20 from London, standing on t je river Stort, in a fine gravelly soil. Here is a house, called Hutisdoit Home, which was used as a royal palace under Heniy \ ili. ^ind Elizabeth, I he cpieen assigned it by grant to her first cousin. Lord Hunsdon. Henry VIIL, Mary 1., Eli- zabeth, and Edward VL, successively made this place their temporary residence. With the three latter was educated here Lady Elizabeth Fitzgerald, the Earl of Surrey's '* t air Geraldine." In the church is a monument to Chitjf Justice Sir Thomas Forster. HLTTON, a parish and small village in Essex, between Brentwood and BiUericay. The mansion, near the church, is the property of Mr. Alderman Scholey. The church is small, and has a wooden steeple with five bells. iCKENHAM, a village in Middlesex, 2 miles N.E. from Uxbridge, and 15i from London. Here is Ickeitham Hall^ an ancient niarioiiul estate, aiid around are two or three handsome seals. 1 LFORD, G HEAT, a hamlet and chapelry in Essex, aud 1 i 362 ILF INGRESS. ©ne of the wards of the parish of Barking. It is 7 miles E. N. E. from London, and situate on the river Roden, forming a respectable street, with some good houses. A handsome new church was opened here in 1831, and here are also a chapel of ease, and two chapels for Dissenters. There is at this place a hospital, founded by Adelegia, Abbess of Barking, about the reign of Richard I,, and ori- ginally consisting of a secular master, a leprous master, and thirteen brethren (lepers), two chaplains, and one clerk. After the suppression of monastic institutions, the site and possession of this hospital were granted by Queen Elizabeth to Thomas Fanshaw, Esq., conditionally that six paupers should have apartments and a pension. The hos- pital occupies three sides of a small quadrangle, having apartments for the pensioners on the east and west sides, and a chapel on the south. The latter is about 100 feet long by 20 wide, and has been frequently altered and repaired. ILFORD, LITTLE, a village in Essex, situate a short distance westward of the town of Great Ilford. Here is the county house of correction, a spacious building, com- pleted in 1831. In the church, the interior of which is as plain as a parish school-house, are several elegant monu- ments, especially a large sarcophagus of red-veined marble, in memory of Smart LethieuUier, Esq., a gentleman who devoted much of his time to antiquarian research. In this parish. East and West Ham, Layton, and Wan- sted, a great mart for cattle, from Wales and the North, is holden annually in the spring. The business between the dealers is principally transacted at the sign of the Rabbits in Little Ilford. INGATESTONE, Essex, 23 miles east from London. In the church are some fine monuments to the Petre family, v/hose ancient seat was at this place. ING RESS, a beautiful villa, with extensive park, con- tiguous to Greenhithe. The mansion, which occupies the site of another handsome building which formerly stood ISL — ISLEWORTH. 363 here, stands on an elevated spot with a commanding- view of the river and the opposite shore. It is in the Gothic style, and has only recently been completed, at the expense of Mr, Alderman Harmer, who purchased the estate of government. The plantations are luxuriant, and the views in and about the park extremely rural and picturesque. Ingress, or Ince Grice^ anciently belonged to the nuns of Dartford, but becoming vested in the crown, at the Disso- lution, passed through various families until the year 1748, when it was conveyed to Lord Duncannon, who married Caroline, eldest daughter of William Duke of Devonshire. This nobleman greatly improved the estate : but after the death of his lady, and several of his children, he sold it to John Calcraft, Esq., who enlarged the grounds by new- purchases, and materially added to the plantations. He died in 1772, when Member of Parliament for Rochester ; his eldest son succeeded him j who disposed of it to John Disney Roebuck, Esq. Mr. Havelock succeeded Mr, Roebuck in the possession of the estate. This gentleman pulled down the house, and sold the grounds to government for the contemplated establishment of a royal dock in the level between Greenhithe and Northfleet. The design, however, was not carried into effect, and the estate has within these few years been sold by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests to Mr. Harmer, the eminent London attorney. ISLE OF DOGS.— See Gravesend—Trip by Steam, ISLEWORTH, a village in Middlesex, pleasantly situ- ate on the north bank of the Thames, opposite Kew Gar- dens, 8 miles W. from London. The church, which is close to the river, was rebuilt in 1706 on the site of the an- cient one. The body is of brick, but its venerable stone tower remains, ivy-mantled. Much of the land in this parish is cultivated by market-gardeners ; still, from the pleasantness of the country around, here is a fair sprink- ling of handsome residences ; especially Sion Hoxise, the 304 seat of liis Grace tlie Duke of Northumberland, and Siott Hill, which see, ISLINGTON, a considerate village, north of London,, to which it is now united. The parish contains, besides the village, the hamlets of Upper and Lower Hollowa}% Highbury, Barnsbury, with parts of Kingsland-green, and Newington-green. The church, erected in 1754, is a neat biick structure, with a spire, quoins, cornices, and archi- traves of Portland stone. Its height, to the top of the vane, is 1(34 feet. Its' length is 108 feet, and its breadth 60. Its roof is supported without pillars, and the mside,. which was repaired in the early part of 1819, is adorned with elegant simplicity. In 1787, the whole church un- derwent considerable repairs. The scaffolding round the spire was of wicker-work, framed upon a very curious plan, by Mr. Birch, a basket-maker, of St. Alban's, who Imd before contrived a similar work for the repairs of the abbey- church in that town. He engaged to erect this scaffold for 20/., and the privilege of showing it at each person, which amounted to upwards of 50/. It had a spiral staircase, continued from the base of the spire \o its apex. A chapel of ease for this parish was erected at Lower Hollovvav, between the years 1812 and 1814, at an expense of upwardsof 20,232/.— exclusiveof somewhat more than 6,000/., for the purchase of the ground ; another has been recently built at Upper HoUoway, (see Hollowai/) — and a third, in Cloudesley-square ; here also, at a little distance from the road, is a small chapel for Independents, erected in 1807, in place of another meeting-house, which was built in 1744. On Compton-terrace is Union ChapeU which contains seats for 1,000 persons, and was first opened in August, 1806. Here, divine service is per- formed, alternately, according to the Litany of the Church of England, and to the usage of the Church of Scotland ; namely, with extempore prayer : hence the name of the chapel. The interior is neatly fitted up. Islington CI. ape]. ISLINGTOX. 365 near the cliurch, in the Upper-street, was built about 1814, for Calvinistic Dissenters : a school of industry, in Church- street, for thirty girls, is connected with it, and adjoins to the Royal British Free School, which was established, on the Lancasterian plan, in 1817, in a former chapel, occu- pied by the Rev. E. J. Jones, the owner of Islington Chapel. About 20 years since, the centre of Islington was perforated by a tunnel, forming a continuation of the Regent's Canal, which was devised by Mr. Nash, to con- tinue the communication, by w^ater-carriage, from Pad- dington to Limehouse ; and thus afford an easy means of conveyance from the Thames, &c., of coals, stone, timber, and other heavy articles, formerly drawn through London. The depth of cutting for the excavation, and the number of houses situated in the line of the canal, made it imprac- ticable to continue the latter in an open course. Hence the necessity of the tunnel, which commences about 200 yards westward of the White Conduit House, and ter- minates about 30 yards eastward of the'New River, below Colebrook-row. It is perfectly straight and level through- out its whole length, which is more than 900 yards. Its height is 18 feet, and its width is 17 feet in the clear ; being thus of sufficient capacity for iwo canal-boats, or one river-barge, to pass with their lading at one time. In its course it passes under White Conduit House and Gardens, under the houses in Warren-street, crosses White Conduit- street, Chapel-place, Union-square, the back and main roads of Islington, and is continued beneath Rhodes's cow- houses and cow-lair, and the New River, which latter had its course turned to the westward during the construction of that portion of the tunnel which passes under it. Some fragments of bones, said to be those of the elephant, were discovered near its eastern extremitj^ An old building, at the back of Cross- street, northward, is absurdly called Queen Elizabeth's Lodge ; but with no other foundation than her having passed through it when on a visit to Sir T. Fowler, Knt. The Queen's Head I I 3 366 ISLINGTON. public -house, in the Lower Road, lately pulled down ami Inbuilt, was a curious timber-building:, of the Elizabethan pge. The parlour-ceiling was curiously stuccoed, and the stone chimney-piece represented the story of Diana and Acfseon, in two compartments. Several other houses in this village appear to have been erected about the same period. The White Conduit Flouse takes its name from a conduit near it, which formerly supplied the Charter House, but is now removed. About 1^ mile beyond White Conduit House is Copenhagen House, another well- known place of recreation for the inhabitants of London ; which is said to have been originally opened by a Dane. On repairing the road, some years ago, nearly opposite the Queen's Head public-house, a subterraneous vault was discovered, which seemed to point towards Smithfield : from this circumstance many were inclined to suppose it formed a communication between the Priory of St. Bartho- lomew^ and Canonbury, the country residence of that body. The simple fact is, that many subterraneous passages, which were once water-courses, exist in this neighbour- hood. On the S.W. side of Islington is a fine reservoir, called the New River Head, near which is the well-known place of public amusement, Sadler's Wells, which takes its name from a spring of mineral-water, now called Islington Spa, or New Tunbridge W^ells, re-discovered by one Sadler, in 1 683, in the garden belonging to a house which he had then just opened as a music-room. Sadler's music -house came, after his death, to one Francis Forcer, whose son was the first that exhibited there the diversions of rope- dancing and tumbling, to which have for many years been added, musical interludes and pantomimes. Subsequently to 1804, additional interest was for some time given to this theatre by aquatic representations, peculiar to it, eflfected by means of a reservoir, or tank, under the stage. At the Sir Hugh Myddelton's Bead, lately rebuilt, is a very large pictare^ containing portraits of the Padler's W^ells Club ; 367 it is a curious representation of some known characters ; among them is Mr. Rosamon, the builder of the present Sadler's Wells, and of Rosamon-street, Clerkenwell. At the entrance of the town, (but in the parish of Sf, James, Clerkenwell,) where there was previously a hermit- age, are almshouses for 10 widows of the parish of Isling- ton, and a school for 30 boys of the same parish, and that of Clerkenwell. They were erected by Dame Alice Owen, and are under the government of the Brewers' Company : from whose records it appears that they were founded by her in consequence of a providential deliverance from death, in the reign of Queen Mary, when this part of/ Islington was all open fields. In those days, archers prag> tised with their bows and arrows at butts ; and, whilst thi» lady was walking in the fields with her maid, an arrow pierced the crown of her hat, without doing her the least injury ! In commemoration of this deliverance, she built the school and almshouses, in 1613, about 3 years before her death. For many years, and even within memory, some arrows were fixed on the top of these houses, which stand on the very spot where the accident happened. Islington is altogether a large and populous place, supe- rior, both in size and appearance, to many considerable towns in the country. The air is remarkably salubrious, and the parish abounds in chalybeate springs. At the Angel Inn, are several roads, diverging towards the metro- polis, and leading to its extremities and centre ; a circum- stance which proves convenient to those inhabitants whose occupations call them to town in the day-time. Within this parish many hundred cows are kept, for supplying the metropolis with milk ; and for which Islington has been famous for centuries. IVER, a populous village in Bucks, formerly a market- town, 2 miles south from Uxbridge. Within the -parish are several flour-mills, and an extensive cotton-mill. In the neighbourhood, which is exceedingly rural and plea- 368 KI-L — KEK. sant, are numerous genteel residences. The late Admiral Lord Gambier had a seat here, called the Grove, KELVEDON HATCH, a parish in Ongar hundred, Essex (distinguished from the other Kelvedon, in Witham hundred, by the addition of hatch (applied to a rural gate of peculiar construction) is distant about 20 miles E.N.E. from London. The church, which is of brick, and tiled, contains, under the arch of the south aisle of the chancel, an epitaph, in Norman French, on Richard de Wellebj, in very ancient characters, and another on Sir Roger de Kirketon. There are also several monuments of the 16th and 17th centuries. Near the church is Kelvedon Hall, a very ancient mansion, now the property of the Rev. Edward Lindsay ; and in this parish is another mansion of great antiquity, termed Bryces, which see, KENDALL HALL, Aldenham, Herts, 6 miles S.E. of St. Alban's, is the seat of W. R. Phillimore, Esq. KENNINGTON, an extensive precinct of the parish of Lambeth, Surrey, 1^ mile S. from London, is supposed to have been so named from the Saxon kuning\ king, and tun^ town — an opinion very strongly confirmed by the fact that at this place there was formerly a palace, in which some of our earlier monarchs resided. Here, it is sup- posed, Haidicanute fell a victim to poison in 1042, and here Harold is said to have placed the crown on his own head, on the death of Edward the Confessor. This palace does not appear to have been at any time the abode of royalty from the Norman invasion to the reign of Henry IIL ; but Edward III. kept his Christmas here in 1342, and his chivalric son, Edward the Black Prince, was much attached to the place, and often resided here. It was also the occasional residence of Henry IV., VI., and VII. ; after which, the manor was farmed out by Henry VIII. The palace was afterwards pulled down, and a manor-house built on its site, in which Charles I. resided when Prince of Wales, In the survey, in 1656, KENNINGTOX. 36^ mention is made of part of the ruins of the palace, ad- joining the manor-house, being a long barn, 180 feet in length, built of flint and stone ; and this barn, in 1709, was the receptacle of the distressed Palatine Protestants ; it was pulled down in 179.>, and on the site arose Park Place, Kennington-cross. In digging the foundations, several spacious arched vaults were discovered. Tlieroad from the cross leading to the river is called Prince's Road, from its being the road the prince came when he landed at Lambeth stairs : in this road is still a public-house, called the Black Prince, formerly much resorted to whea it stood alone, in the country, it having then an assembly- room, &c. ; it is taken notice of in No. 68 of the ** Con- noisseur," and called Sot's Hole, which gave name to the adjacent lane, now become a street, called Regent-street. The palace of Kennington is supposed to have been w very extensive pile, and of Saxon architecture. Not a vestige now remains above ground ; but in the cellars of some of the houses in Park-place, thick walls of flint,, chalk, and rubble-stone intermixed, may still be seen. Kennington is a convenient suburb of London, whicli has of late years much improved. The Gvf^ens, Lpper and Lower, and the Terrace, are genteelly inhabited ; the Common has many neat residences, the high roads have good houses on eacli side, and there are many respectable- streets and rows ; among others, a large plot of ground,, called the Oval, the centre of which is a nursery-ground, is surrounded with cottages and neat dwellings. The common, now chiefly used as a promenade, and for cricket and other games, was, till late in the 18tli century, the place of execution for the county of Surrey. On, or very near, the spot thus used, stands now the church of St, INIark, one of the new district churches of Lambeth parish, and a handsome structure. It consists of two distinct portions ; the body forms a parallelogram without corners ; the eastern end is extended to make a recess for the altar, and at the western is a tower, at the side of 370 KENSALL GREEN. wbicli are lobbies, with staircases to the galleries. Tbc* portico is formed of four columns, and two insulated antae at the angles, supporting an entablature of the Greek- Doric order, surmounted by a pediment. These are all of stone, but the body of the church is of brick, with stone pilasters to the piers between the windows, the style of which is utterly at variance with the handsome portico. The tower is square, and tastefully designed with fluted Ionic columns, terminating with a plain spherical cupola, on the apex of which is an elegant stone cross. Tbe in- terior is very conveniently and elegantly disposed, and the whole does great credit to the skill and judgment of the architect, D. Eoper, Esq. KENSALL GREEN, a hamlet of Paddington parish, situate on the Harrow-road, mile from Paddington, At this place is the General Cemetery (for which a com- pany was incorporated by the 2 & 3 Will. 4), established for the interment, as well of members of the Church of England, as of those persons whose friends desire a funeral service differing from that of the church. The directors, in their prospectus, " flatter themselves that they off'er such advantages as must insure the patronage of all deno- minations." They add, " it were needless to expatiate on the advantages of removing interments to a distance from the habitations of the living ; that, in order to pro- mote so great a benefit, they have inclosed a large tract of ground, of which the western division has been consecrated,. and the eastern set apart (under sanction of their act of parliament) for the interment of Dissenters, according to their own rites and ceremonies ; that here, the exclusive and perpetual right of interment in every species of grave f vault, mausoleum, or place of burial, may be purchased^ upon the moderate scale of charges annexed to their prospectus ; tljat a chapel has been erected, and spacious vaults and catacombs constructed, and the whole ground is ornamentally laid out and planted ; that Dissenters may be buried here, in any manner consistent with decency KENSINGTON. 371 and order, and by any person ; and that the ground is in- closed to a great height, and the effectual system of watching, by armed patrols, affords perfect security from the danger of exhumation." With these advantages, and the minor, though not less gratifying ones of decency and res-pect which characterise this establishment y the directors feel confident that they may with safety leave the General Cemetery to public patronage and support,'^ Then follow their Regulations," some quotations from the act sanctioning their agreeable establishment," and a detail of " the charges and fees at A /I Soids^ Ceme- tery, where any body, it seems, if dead, may be buried, if living, take a place, at so much per square foot, of ordinary dimensions, but with extras for extra depth, &cc. For the convenience of persons visiting the Cemetery {living persons are meant) an omnibus leaves the Red Lion, at the comer of the Harrow and Edgeware roads, for the Cemetery, daily, at 12, 2, and ^ past 4 o'clock, and returns from the Cemetery at 1, 3, and ^ past 5 o'clock. The office of the company is at 95, Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury, where prospectuses, and all further infor- mation may be obtained." KENSINGTON, a large and populous village in Mid- dlesex, 1^ mile from Hyde-park-corner, contains the hamlets of Brompton, Earl's Court, the Gravel Pits, and a part of Little Chelsea, the royal palace, and a few other houses on the north side of the road, being in the parish of St. Margaret, Westminster. In the church, which is a handsome structure, several of the Rich family, Earls of Warwick, lie buried ; and, in the adjoin- ing cemetery, lie the learned Dr. Jortin, who died in 1762 ; the Rev. Martin Madan, author of the " Thelyph- thora", who died in 1790 ; and Dr. Samuel Pegge, author of the " Curialia," who died in 1800. At Earl's Court ^ to the west of Brompton, was the villa of the late cele- brated John Hunter, who here prosecuted his curious and 372 KENSlNiGTON PALACE. useful exi)eriiiients and discoveries, and whose valuable museum was purchased by parliament, and presented to the College of Surgeons. At Kemington Gravel Pits (a hamlet of this parish, on the Acton road, which was formerly nothing but gravel- pits) are several handsome dwellings. There are several meeting-houses for Dissenters in this parish, particularly a capacious one for Independents, erected in 17 94, at- tached to which is a school. A small chapel for Roman Catholics, who are numerous here, was also built some years ago. — See HoUai-id House. KENSINGTON PALACE was the seat of Sir Heneage Finch, afterwards Earl of Nottingham, and was sold by his son (Daniel, the second earl) to King William, who greatly improved it, and caused a royal park to be made to it, through Hyde Park. The gardens were originally only 26 acres. Queen Anne added 30 acres, which were laid out by her gardener, Mr. Wise ; but the princi])al addition was made by Queen Caroline, who took in nearly 300 acres from Hyde Park, which were laid out by Bridgeman ; and they were afterwards much improved by Brown, They are 3^ miles in circumference ; and have, for many years past, been a fashionable i)romenade. The palace is a large irregular edifice of brick, built at various times, but principally by William HI. The state apartments consist of a suite of twelve rooms. The great staircase, in which are painted balconies, with portraits in groups, was painted by Kent, whose own portrait, and those of Peter the Wild Boy, and the Turk Mustapha (an attendant of George II.), are among the number deli- neated. The interior is well calculated for the accommo- dation of a numerous household, yet there are but few apartments, excepting the galleries, of commanding pro- portions. The apartments generally shown to strangers, are the following: — The Presence Chamber, which is hung w ith tapestrj^ and has a coved ceiling, painted by Kent. The Privy Chamber, also adorned with tapestry, with KEKTISH TOWN. 373 liighly enriched cloorwaj^s and windows, and a painted ceiling. The Queen^s Drawings Dining , and Dressing llooms. The Queen^s Gallery, 84 feet long, and 21 feet wide. The Cubic Room, or Grand Saloon, 37 feet square, and highly, but very gaudily decorated. Here, in marble niches, are gilt statues of heathen deities, with busts over them, also gilt : above the mantel-piece is a bust of Cleopatra, and a lloman marriage, finely sculptured in marble, by Rysbrach. The Great Drawiiig Room, the King's State Bed Chamber, the Prussian Closet, the Green Closet, which was the private closet of William 111., and contains his writing-table and escritoir ; the King's GaU lery, a noble apartment, 94 feet long, and 21 feet wide, with a coved ceiling, elaborately painted ; and the Guard Chamber, The paintings, which ornament the different rooms, include many valuable historical pieces, as well as portraits. They were partly collected by Queen Caroline, who took particular pleasure in regaining as many as pos- sible of the noble collection of Charles I. This palace was the frequent residence of King William and Queen Mary, Queen Anne, George I., and George 11, Those monarchs (George I. excepted, wdio died at Hanover) all expired within its walls, as did Prince George of Denmark, Queen Anne's consort, in 1703. During the subsequent reigns, Kensington has been forsaken by the sovereign. Some 3^ears ago it was fitted up for the occasional residence of their Royal Highnesses the Princess of Wales, and her aged mother, the Duchess of Brunswick, who sought an asylum in this country from the commotions on the continent. His late Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, and his illustrious consort, resided here for some time ; and since the duke's death, his widow, the Duchess of Kent, and their daughter, the Princess Victoria, have likewise resided here. The Duke of Sussex, also, has apartments in Kensington Palace. KEN'JTSH TOWN, a village in the imriah of Pancras, K K 374 KES — KEW. Middlesex, extending from Camden Town to the foot of Highgate Hill, distant, at its entrance, 2 miles north from London. Here are a chapel of ease to St. Pancras, and several meeting-houses for Dissenters. In and near the Grove ^ and in the High Street, are numerous genteel residences ; but this place, for some reason or other, seems on the decline, many of the best houses being un- occupied (August, 1836). At about the centre of the village is a large house of entertainment, called the Assemble/ House, formerly much more resorted to than at present. In front of this house, under some handsome trees, is a small marble table, on which is the follow- ing latin inscription : — " In memoria sanitatis restaurataB, Robertus Wright, Gent., hoc marmor posuit, A.D. 1725'' ■ — " to commemorate the restoration of his health, Robert Wright, Gentleman, placed this marble here, A.D. 1725." The faculty used to recommend their patients to this vil- lage as a salubrious place ; but modern practitioners, in these march-of-intellect days, raise the clayey soil, low situation at the foot of hills, and consequent fogs, as objections. One things however, is certain ; that, except from increase of buildings in and around it, the place must be as healthy as it ever was. KESTON, a village in Kent, 5 miles south from Bromley, on the road to Westerham. At Holwood Hill^ in this parish, are the remains of a large fortification (pro- bably a Roman one), of an oblong form; the area of which is partly inclosed by ramparts and double ditches of great height and depth. It is 2 miles in circum- ference, inclosing nearly 100 acres of ground.— See HoU wood Hohse and Norwood, KEW, a village in Surrey, formerly a hamlet to King- ston, but since 1769 united with Petersham as a parish. It is situate near the Thames, 7 miles from London, and has a handsome stone bridge of seven arches over the river, which is the private property of R. Tunstall, Esq, Towards the east end of the Green is a neat church, KEW PALACE. 375 erected by subscription, in 1714, on a plot of ground given by Queen Anne. It is a small brick structure (de- dicated to St. Anne, and originally designed as a chapel of ease to Kingston) with a nave and north aisle, the south side being a school-room ; at the west end is a turret. Against the south wall are a tablet and medal- lion, to the memory of Jeremiah Meyer, K.A., painter in miniature and enamel to King George III., with some lines by Hayley the poet, written in 1789 ; against the east wall is a monument to Dorothy Lady Capel, 1721 ; against the south, one to Elizabeth Countess of Derby, 1717 ; near the school-house, in the churchyard, the tomb of Gainsborough, the celebrated artist, 1788, who occa- sionally visited his sister at Kew. Here also lies Zoftany, another famous painter, who died in 1810. KEW HOUSE, now a royal palace, belonged, about the middle of the 17th century, to Richard Bennett, Esq., whose daughter and heiress married Sir Henry, afterwards lord, Capel of Tewkesbury, who died Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, in 1696. His w^dow resided for many years at Kew, died and was buried there in 1791. The house then became the property of Samuel Molineux, Esq., who married her daughter. That gentleman was secretary to George II. when Prince of Wales, a man of literature and an ingenious astronomer. The prince took a long lease of the house, frequently resided in it, and here re- ceived, with great kindness, Thomson the poet. It was improved and ornamented by Kent for the Princess Dowager. It was afterwards held on lease by King- George III., who occasionally resided in it. It has now recently been occupied by H. R. H. the Duke of Cum- berland. The Gardens, which contain about 120 acres, were begun by Frederick Prince of Wales, and finished by the Princess Dowager, who took great delight in them, and first established the Botanic garden in 1760, The whole of the grounds were disposed by Sir William Chambers. 376 KEW PALACE. The Botanic Garden ia laid out in the most curious and judicious manner, and contains every flower and exotic plant which can be procured, being one of the finest col- lections in the world. In the pleasure gardens are dif- ferent buildings ; namelv, a Chinese Pagoda, ten stories high, of an octagonal shape ; the several stories decreasing in regular proportion, and having a projecting roof ; the whole height is 163 feet. On the top is a most extensive view of the surrounding country. Near this stands the Mosque, also an octagon, ornamented with a large dome ; over the three entrances are extracts in Arabic from the Koran, in golden characters. The Temple of Bellona is a handsome little building. The Temple of Pan, of the Doric order. The Temple of Eolus. The Temple of Solitude, The Hou$e of Confucius, ornamented with historical sub- jects relating to Confucius and the Missionaries in China. In a winding w^alk is a Corinthian colonnade, called the Theatre of Aiigusta; and, on an adjacent hill, stands the Temple of Victory, erected in commemoration of the battle of Minden, in 1759. The Temple of Arethusa is a small Ionic building of four columns, near which is a small wooden bridge thrown over the lake, leading to an island. Opposite the palace is an old house, formerly the pro- perty of Sir Hugh Portman, who is mentioned in a letter of Rowland White, as the rich gentleman who was knighted by Queen Charlotte at Kew. Sir John Portman sold it, in 1636, to Samuel Fortrey, Esq. It was alienated by William Fortrey, in 1697, to Sir Richard Levette, of whose descendants it was bought in trust for Queen Char- lotte, in the year 1781, who took a long lease of it w^hich was not then expired. During this lease it was inhabited by different branches of the royal family. His late Ma- jesty George IV. was educated here, under the super- intendance of the late Dr. Markham, Archbishop of York ; and Queen Charlotte died here, November 17, 1818. The house appears to have been built about the reign of James» or Charles I. KIL— KIN. 377 Near this spot a new palace was commenced for King George III., under the directions of the late James Wyatt, Esq., whose north front, the only part open for public in- spection, possessed an air of solemn sullen grandeur. This structure (which was never completed, and was taken down about tw^o years ago) was at once illustrative of bad taste and defective judgment. Kew Gardens are open to the public on Sundays onlj^ from Midsummer till the beginning of October, from 10 A.M. till sunset. The grounds are kept in good order. During the illness of her late Majesty Queen Charlotte, a new and very pleasant walk was formed, nnder the direc- tion of the Princess Augusta and the Duchess of Glou- cester, along the terrace bordering on the Thames, o])po- site Sion House, which, with the scenery of the river, adds grace and animation to the prospect. The Duke of Cambridge has a mansion on Kew Green, which, we understand, is still kept in charge for his R. H.'s occasional use when in England. KILBURN, Middlesex, 2| miles N.W. from London, a hamlet in the parish of Hampstead, has a fine spring of mineral water, now disregarded. Near this w^as once a hermitage, converted afterwards into a nunnery ; of which there are not any remains. This place has been rapidly increasing in extent and population for some years past. KINGSBURY, a parish in Middlesex, Smiles N.W. of London. Its name denotes it to have been a royal resi- dence, perhaps of some of the Saxon monarchs. The church is supposed to stand within the site of a Roman encampment, and is partly built with Roman tiles. In this village, Dr. Goldsmith had a temporary residence, whilst preparing his History of Animated Nature." KINGSLAND, a hamlet, partly in the parish of Hack- ney, and partly in that of Islington, had formerly an ancient hospital or house of lepers, called Les Loqnes ; an obsolete French word, signifying rags, whence a lock was formerly used as a synonymous term with a lazar, or 378 KIXGSLAND — KINGSTON. poor-house. This hospital was long an appendage to St, Bartholomew's Hospital in London, and was used as a kind of outer ward till 1761, when all the patients were removed from Kingsland, and the site of the hospital wa* let on a building lease. The chapel was left, on petition of the inhabitants, and is one of the smallest in .the vici- nity of the metropolis ;^.the chaplainvis appointed by the governors of St, Bartholomew's Hospital. Kingsland is now united by a continued range of buildings to Shore- ditch. KING'S LANGLEY, a village (and parish) in Herts, 4| miles N.N.W. from Watford, and 19f from London. It obtained its name from a royal palace built here by Henry III., some remains of which are still visible. Here were born and buried Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, (son of Edward III.), his wife, Isabel, daughter of Pedro, King of Castille, and Piers Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II. Richard II. was also buried here, but his body was afterwards removed to Westminster, by order of Henrj'- V", KINGSTON-UPON-THAMES, a market-town in Surrey, 10 miles S.W. of London (the nearest road) is seated on the Thames, over which, to Hampton Wiek, is an elegant bridge of Portland stone, consisting of five elliptical arches, the abutments terminated by towers, or bastions, and the whole finished by a cornice and balus- trade, with recesses projecting over each pier, which give a bold relief to the general elevation. Of this well-de- signed and well-executed structure, Mr. Lapidge was the architect, and Mr. Herbert the builder. The latter gentle- man undertook the contract for 26,800/., and completed it for that sum, 100/. only being the charge for extras — a fact surprisingly rare in undertakings of this kind ! The first stone was laid by the late Earl of Liverpool, Nov. 7, 1825, and the bridge was opened with some state, by her present Majesty (then Duchess of Clarence^, July 17, 1828. Before the erection of this bridge, Kingston had a KING S7 ON- V PO X-TIIAM F.S. 379 wooden onp, wliicli was tlie most ancient biidg'e over the river Thames, except that of London. It is mentioned in a record of 8tli ITent v 111. In its old ag-e, up to the d:!te of its being pulled down (1823),.it was particularly famous as the resort of '* patient fishers," who, under its arches, took '* their silent ssat"" in punts, where they *• Hoped (and generally hooked) the scaly breed Eyeing the dancing cork and bending reed." Some anglers are still to be seen under the new bridge but it is suspected the old and more sapient fish, as well as the more knowing anglers, are dispersed, to congregate no more at Kingston, for some years at least. The town of Kingston is narrow- streeted, thickly popu- lated, bustling, staring, and, in many respects, dis- agreeable ; but it has man}^ good shops, the Saturday's market is tolerably well-supplied and not dear, and the outskirts are remarkably pleasant. The proximity of the parks of Richmond and Bushey, of the palace and gardens of Hampton. court and Kew, and of the Thames, is, of course, a great advantage. 1 he Town Hall, in which the summer county assizes are holden, stands in the market- place detached. It was erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, as appears from an inscription against the east wall. Some of the mantled carving of the Elizabethan age remains in the wainscot, ornamented with the arms of the town, and a device of the letter K, and a tun. The south end of the hall appears to have been rebuilt in the reign of James I., most probably about the year 1618, when the painted glass was put up in the windows. In the hall is a portrait of Queen Anne, whose statue is also fixed on the outside, with an inscription under, and the date of 1706. The south windows are ornamented with painted glass, consisting chiefly of coats of arms. In one of these windows are the arms of James 1., surrounded with small shields containing the armorial ensigns of the Romans, the Heathen and Christian Britons, the Kentish- 380 KINGSTON-UPOX-THAMES. Saxons, the Heathen and Christian West-Saxons, the East Saxons, the Latin-Saxon Monarch s, the Norman Ivings, the Andegavian Kings, the Kings of France, the Kings of Scotland, the South-Saxons, the East-Angles, the Mercian Kings, the Kings of Northumherland, the Danish Kings, the Cornish Kings, the early Kings of Wales, the later Kings of Wales, the Welch Princes, and the Kings of Ireland. In the same window are the arms and quar- terings of Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham, who was high steward of the town ; and two other coats. In the other window are the arms of Mr. Hatton, the recorder j and the arms of Denmark. The Market Place, in the centre of the town, is at once convenient and picturesque — indeed a touch" of the latter quality pei-vades the whole town, intermixed as are its houses old and new. In Kingston is a small gaol for the county, a grammar-school, founded by Queen Eliza- beth, several good almshouses, and chapels of various denominations. The town is of great antiquity, and takes its name of Kingston, or King's-town^ from the fact that several of our Saxon monarchs were crowned here : — Edward the elder, A.D., 900; Athelstan, 925; Edmund, 940; Edred, 946 ; Edwy, 955; Edward the Martyr, 975 ; Ethelred, 978 ; and Edgar, 959, either here or at Bath. That it was a Koman station seems beyond doubt ; for their coins and arms have been found in large quantities, with chains of silver, earthen pots, tiles, and other remains ; and Leland says, that, besides the coins of several emperors (particu- larly Dioclesian, the Maximinians, Maximus, and Con- stantine) in the neighbourhood of Combe Park, in plough- ing and digging, have been very often found the founda- tions of walls of houses, whence he infers that a Roman town stood on this spot. In confirmation of this, there has always been a tradition that Kingston-bridge was, in the time of the Saxons, lower down the river than it was after the town was rebuilt, when the builders " took from KINGSTON- UPON -THAMES. 331 tliG very clive uf Coombe Park side, to build on the Tamise side.*' I'he cburch of Kingston consists of a nave, two aisles, and three chancels. On the south side stood the chapel of St. Mary, in which it is supposed some of the Saxon kings were crowned. In this chapel were formerly the figures of several of these monarchs, with inscriptions over them, from which it appeared that some were crowned in the market-place, and others in the chapel. This ancient and curious appendage to the church fell down in 1730, when the sexton, his daughter, and another person, were buried under the ruins. The daughter, Hester Hammerton, though buried for seven hours, was dug out alive, and succeeded her father in his office, which she held for seventeen years ! No part of the present church appears to be older than the reign of Richard 11. The south and middle chancels have wooden stalls, and are separated by pointed arches and light clustered columns. In the parish accounts of the reign of Elizabeth, mention is made of four other chancels, besides the three now existing. The interior of the cliurch was repaired in 1721, and a portico added about sixty years ago. The tower is scjuare and low, the upper part of it rebuilt with brick. In the church is a flat stone, inlaid with brass plates, representing a man and woman in long loose dresses, with a curious Latin inscription to Robert Skerne and his wife, in black letter, the wrong way upwards ; against the wall is the monument of Sir Anthony Benn, Recorder of Lon- don, and before that of Kingston, died 1618 ; near it is one to Colonel A. Fane, his son-in-law, died 1642 ; beneath this is an altar-tomb, under a pointed arched canopy, but without either inscription or arms ; over the communion-table is the monument of John Henton, Ser- jeant of the larder to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth* who died in 1584, In the north chancel is a monument to Dr. George Bate (Physician to Charles I., Oliver Crom- well, his son Richard, and to Cl)arles II., and author of 382 KING STON- U PON-TH AM ES. " An Account of the Commotions in England"), who died in 1668, and his wife Elizabeth, who died in 1667 of a consumption, accelerated by the fire of London : in the north and east walls are the remains of two monuments with flat arches ; near the north door is a brass plate in the wall, with the effigies of John and Catherine Hert- combe, who died, the one in 1477, and the other, 1488, On the north side of the chancel is a neat mural monu- ment, with armorial bearings, to members of the Hardinge family ; in the south wall of the south chancel is a sarco- phagus-shaped monument to Lieut.-Col. Jenkinson, C.B., a cousin of the late and present Earl of Liverpool, died in 1823. There are, besides these, some other monuments. Of this parish was instituted vicar, in 1502, Nicholas West, afterwards Bishop of Ely, an eminent statesman in the reign of Henry VIIL and Edward Staunton, insti- tuted in 1632, who was afterwards President of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. A house, called Bishop^s Hall, stood anciently at the Thames side, which is supposed to have been the occa- sional residence of the Bishops of Winchester, who had frequent ordinations in the parish church of Kingston. The house has been long since pulled down ; but its site is still called Bishop's Hall. Kingston sent members to parliament in the 4th, 5th, and 6th Edward II., and 57th Edward III. ; but ceased to be a borough, in compliance with the prayer of the cor- poration to be relieved from the burthen ! According to our ancient chronicles, in this town was a royal residence, or a royal demesne. A general council was held here in 838, at which King Egbert was present, with the chief prelates and nobility of the realm. King- ston has been the theatre of several other remarkable his- torical events. During the turbulent scenes of the civil wars, the town was frequently visited by either party ; on several occasions Charles I. was here with his army. The last struggle on behalf of the royal cause," says ^ KNIGHTSBRIDGE. 383 Mr. Lysons, was made at Kingston. The Earl of Hol- land, who had been of all parties, at a time when the king's affairs had been in a most desperate situation, and himself a prisoner in the Isle of Wight, formed an ill- concerted plan for rescuing him, and persuaded the Duke of Buckingham, and his brother, Lord Francis Villiers, to join him in the attempt. They assembled at Kingston, witli a body of about 600 horse ; their avowed object being to release the king, and bring him to parliament, to settle peace in the kingdom, and preserve the laws : a declaration to this effect was sent to the citizens of London, who were invited to join them. The parliament imme- diately sent some troops of liorse from Windsor, under the command of Colonel Pritty, who found the royalists but ill-prepared for defence. A skirmish took place near Surbiton-common, in which the Earl of Holland and his party were soon defeated. The earl himself fled to Har- row, but was soon afterwards taken prisoner. The Duke of Buckingham escaped ; but his brother, the gallant Lord Francis Villiers, was slain in the skirmish. He behaved with signal courage, and after his horse had been killed under him, stood with his back against a tree, de- fending himself against several assailants, till at length he sunk under his wounds. The next day the lords, who had heard the report of the skirmish, and that Lord F. Vil- liers was dangerously wounded, made an order that chi- rurgeons might be permitted to go to Kingston, and take care of him, if he were yet alive ; but, as one of the journalists of that time observes, * it was too late, for he was dead, and stripped, and good pillage found in his pocket.* His body was conveyed to York House, in the Strand, by water, and was buried in Henry Seventh's Chapel, in Westminster Abbey." — See Combe , Norhiton, Ham, and Surhitou, KIPPINGTON, near Sevenoaks, Kent, is the seat of Colonel Thomas Austins. KNIGHTSBRIDGE, a hamlet, partly of St. Margaret, 384 KNDWLE PARR. Westminster, and partly of St. George, Hanovef-squafe, half a mile west from Hyde Park-corner, on the road to Kensington. Here, at the top of Grosvenor-place, is 67. George^ s Hospital for the sick and lame ; not far from which is the Lock Hospital; and, on the highroad, the Lock Asylum, for the reception of penitent females after their discharge from the hospital. At the extremity of Knightsbridge, adjoining Hyde Park, are barracks for the horse and foot-guards, the noted Cannon Brewery, and some floor-cloth manufactories. KNOLL, or KNOWLE, Place and Park, for some cen- turies tlie seat of the Earls and Dukes of Dorset, is situate at Sevenoaks, in Kent. The mansion stands about 24^ miles from London, and is approached, through the park, by a handsome gate, leading from the town, through an avenue, to the park gates. This magnificent seat is at pre- sent occupied by the widowed Countess of Plymouth, the eldest daughter and heiress by entail of the late Duke and Duchess of Dorset. Knoll is unquestionably one of the most splendid ancient mansions in the kingdom. The beholder is impressed, at the first view, with ideas which carry him back to times long past ; while the castellated style of the mansion, with its square towers, embattled gateways, and peculiar site, conspire to fix the mind on the days of feudal grandeur, chivalry and romance. The edifice exhibits specimens of tlie style of different ages. The most ancient portion is thought to be coeval with the Mareschals and Bigods, who formerly possessed this domain ; the most modern is of the erection of Thomas first Earl of Dorset, in the beginning of the reign of James I. Many subsequent improvements, have, however, been made ; and the building is now of a quadrangular form. Of the ancient history of this venerable pile, the follow- ing particulars are, we believe, authentic. It was pos- sessed, in the time of King John, by Baldwin de Bethun, or Betuue. From him, through tlie Mareschals, Earls of RNOVVLE PARK. 385 Pembroke, and the Bigods, Earls of Norfolk, it descended to Otho de Grandison, who held it in the reign of Edward I. Sir 'Ihomas Grandison, in the time of Richard II., con- veyed it to Geoffrey de Say, whose daughter transferred it to Sir William Fiennes, and Sir William's son to Arch- bishop Bourchier, by whom considerable additions were made to the edifice, and who bequeathed it by will to the see of Canterbury. Archbishop Morton, (who died here in 1460) likewise added to the buildings ; but Cranmer, observing that the grandeur of the structure excited the invidious remarks of the laity, exchanged it for lands with the crown. It continued a royal domain till the reign of Edward VI., who granted it to his uncle the Duke of Somerset. John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, ob- tained possession on Somerset's conviction. Northumber- land's execution again transferred it to the crown ; and Cardinal Pole procured it of Queen Mary for his life. On its lapsing a third time, Elizabeth presented it to her favourite the Earl of Leicester, who resigned it. The queen then conferred it on Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset, who (with the exception of its being seized on in the time of the usurpation, and of an alienation, by Rich- ard, the third earl, to Henry Smith, Esq., Alderman of London, which was redeemed by his lordship's nephew) transmitted uninterrupted possession to his descendants, the Earls and Dukes of Dorset. The entrance into the mansion is through a tower portal, which leads to a small court-yard, with a grass plot on each side ; on one plot, stands the statue of a gladiator, on the other, that of Venus rising- from the sea. This court conducts to another, with a columned portico, supporting a balcony with balustrades. The visitor then arrives at the hall, where the housekeeper, or her assistant, is in at- tendance to show the apartments. When we were there (in November, 1835) a lady, equally remarkable for her intelligence and pleasing manners, conducted us round the house, ansvvered our every inquiry readily and satisfac- ^ L L 386 KNOWLE PARK. torily, and contrived, with great tact, if she really did not feel it so, to make her irksome duty appear a delight. The tour of the apartments is made in the following order: — 1. The Guard Roomj full of weapons of war, ranged along the walls, and preserved with great care. 2. The Hall. — Still ornamented with the paraphernalia of its original decorations, and preserving the memory of baronial pomp. Here is a fine marble statue of Demos- thenes, and another of Egeria. The windows are of stained glass, a long oak table runs down the centre of the room, at which the tenantry have for ages been entertained, and at the bottom of the apartment is a music gallery, with a screen of curious and very beautiful old carving. The fire-place contains a pair of dogs^ (the ancient substitute for a stove) which belonged to Anna Boleyne. The Kent- ish Yeomanry have recently been feasted in this hall. 3. The Horns Gallery, and the Brown Gallery. These form in fact but one apartment, and contain numerous fine portraits, by or after Holbein, (for they are not all originals) among which, those of the Early Reformers, and one of Ninon de UEnclos, the celebrated French beauty, said to have been taken in her 80th year, stand pre-eminent. Here is preserved, a chair in which James I. sat. 4. Lady Betty ermaine's Bed Chamber, The lady who gives name to this chamber lived in the reign of George II., and was of the good old school— herself eminent in litera- ture, and a patroness of those who professed it. Her sanc- tum is decked with tapestry, on which are portraits of Van Dj^k and his father-in-law Lord Gowrie. The bed is of the time of James I. Over the mantel-piece is a sump, tuous picture of Cymon and Iphigenia, — artist not known. 5. Lady Betty Gerynaine^s Dressing Room — leading, need we say, from the chamber. Here we have a splendid por- trait of the first Duke of Dorset, one of the lady of Sir W alter Raleigh, and another of Mrs. Bates, a noted singer. A fine picture of Nymphs and Echo, by Sir Peter Lely, is KNOWLE PA rjv. 387 particularly worthy of notice; and here is a portrait of Nell Gwynne, by the same artist, which is remarkable, if only from its differing* essentially from the numerous other likenesses of this celebrated lady which we have seen. If this resemble her, she has not been flattered by Lely, it is certain. 6. The Spangled Bed Room, The furniture of this room (with the exception of a Burmese idol, the gift of the pre- sent Lord Amherst, which is utterly out of place here) was presented by King- James I. to Lionel, Earl of Middlesex, Lord Treasurer, from whom it descended to his daughter, who married the fifth Earl of Dorset, and thence to the Sackville family. The room itself is magnificent j it is hung with tapestry, and has an original floor of oak, which, for some unaccountable reason, is painted black. The bed is singularly beautiful, and a curious large ebony cabinet attracts attention. A portrait, by Lely, of Mrs. Sackville^ one of the Dorset family, and a remarkably pretty woman, graces this apartment. 7. Dressing Room to the foregoing. In the centre of this elegant boudoir, stand a most beautiful chair and footstool of ivory. Fancy a lady thus seated at her toilet, surrounded by (must we say iti) voluptuous pictures, several Venuses for instance, in the execution of which. Art vies succes- fully with Nature, and shares with it the admiration of the spectator ! In this luxurious *' snuggery," we have also a Magdalene, by Holbano, Abraham entertaining the Angels, by Guercino, and Candle-light Rejoicing , by Schalkchen, an exquisite production. There are man7 other paintings ; but those which we have mentioned are the best, 8. The Billiard Room, — Containing, of course, a bil- liard table, which, however, as far as we could judge, is preserved merely because it may once have been deemed ornamental ; the commonest now made is superior to it. Here again are very beautiful pictures. Among them, are two by Van Dyk, both undoubtedly originals — one a por- 388 KNOWLE PARK. trait of Sir Kenelm Digbj, the other of Du Burg, the organist of Antwerp. 9. The Leicester Gallery. — So named, because occupied, it is said, by the Earl of Leicester, when here on a visit with Queen Elizabeth. This apartment is ornamented throughout with fine paintings, and its matting and screens are of great antiquity. Here are the family pedigrees, on vellum and rollers, from Thomas, the first earl, to the pre- sent time. The principal pictures in this apartment are the following: — Portraits of King James 1. and of his eldest son Prince Henry, by Mytens, painted while that monarch was on a visit at Knoll ; portraits of the Earl of Middlesex and his countess, and of Lord and Lady Arun» del ; and the Palatine family , by Houthoust. 10. The Venetian Bed Room. — Here is the state-bed in- tended for the reception of James II. Over the mantel- piece is a portrait of Catherine II., of Russia, dressed in military costume, as a commander-in-chief. 11. The Fenetian Dressing /?oo?72.— This apartment has some splendid paintings — the Death of Cleopatra, by Dominichino ; three portraits by Sir Joshua Keynolds; tlie first, of some celebrated opera singer, the second, of Mad. Baccelli, and the third, of Miss Axford, the fair quakeress of George the Third. Over the mantel-piece, is a portrait of the first Duke of Dorset, by Wootton ; and over one of the doors, a most spirited battle-piece, artist not known. 12. The Organ Room. — A room which bears marks of great antiquity, but in whicli there is nothing remarkable to be viewed ; unless we except an organ, standing in one of the corners, said to be the second instrument of the kind built in England. The portraits of the second Duke of Dorset, of Sir John Suckling, and of Butler, the author of Iludibras, are the chief paintings. 13. The Cho.ssessor. Around the walls of the library are disposed tliB fuUowing I'ortraiis ; — Archbiolioi) Bancroft, LAMBETH PALACE. 397 1601 a copy of Holbein's portrait of Archbishop Warham ; Fox, Bishop of Winchester ; P. Da Moulin, a learned di- vine ; and Dr. Wilkins, formerly librarian. In the window, in stained glass, are the arms of King- Philip of Spain, and Archbishops Bancroft and Laud ; and curious portraits of Archbishop Chichelej and St. Augustine ; the former is evidently a genuine likeness. This portrait has formerly been very brilliant ; but the colours are much faded. The library of manuscripts is situated over the west side of that containing the printed books, and is divided into two parts ; the first containing the registers and archives of the see of Canterbury ; the second, the MSS. of a miscel- laneous nature. The registers relate to a vast variety of subjects. The oldest at present deposited in the librarv at Lambeth is that of Archbishop Peckham, which begins in June, 1279. These registers were anciently kept in the priory of St. Gregory, at Canterbury j but, after their removal to Lambeth, acquired the name of Lambeth re- isters. The Guard Chomher, parallel with the library, is a large apartment, 56 feet by 29. It is thus named from having formerly contained the armour and arms appropriated to the defence of the palace. Over the chimney is a full- length portrait of Henry Prince of Wales, son of James I. The Presence Chamber, now only remarkable for the stained glass in its window^s, is an ancient room, 30 feet by 19. The date of its erection is not known. Two of the windows contain portraits of St. Jerome and St. Gre- gory, and the middle one has a painted sun-dial, with a view of the theatre at Oxford, and the arms of the see of Canterbury, and of Archbishop Sheldon, at whose expense- the glass w^as painted. The Great Dining Room contains a series of portraits of all the Archbishops of Canterbury from Laud to Corh- wallis, in the following order : — Archbishop Laud, by Vandyke ; Juxon, from a good original at Longleat ; Sheldon; Sancroft ; Tillotson ; Tennison, by Simon 398 LAMBETH PALACE. Dubois ; Wake ; Potter ; Herring, by Hogarth ; Hutton, by Hudson ; Seeker, by Reynolds ; and Cornwallis, by Dance. From these portraits may be ascertained the gradual change of the clerical dress. A large ruff, it will be observed, anciently supplied the place of bands, and the wig was first worn by Archbishop Tillotson, and then without powder. The Old Drawing Room, formerly called the Velvet Room, from its being hung with purple and red velvet, is not now remarkable, except for its antiquity. The N'ew Draxving and Dressing Rooms are two noble and well-proportioned apartments. They were built by Archbishop Cornwallis, in 1769, and are fitted up with an elegant simplicity. The Long Gallery, the erection of which is ascribed to Cardinal Pole, is entered from the old drawing-room, and terminates the range of apartments on the south side of the palace. It contains a fine collection of prelatical por- traits, and the windows are enriched with very beautiful stained glass, containing the arms of many of the pri- mates. The portraits are Cardinal Pole, fine ; Archbishop Arundel (temp. Henry IV.) a copy from a valuable one in the Penshurst collection ; Warbam, by Holbein ; Parker, by Lyne ; Martin Luther, a small head on board ; Cranmer, Whitgift and Grindal, artists not known ; an imaginary head of St. Dunstan ; Archbishop Abbot, 1610, fine ; Chicheley, curiously painted on panel. The modern portraits consist of full-lengths, of Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Sarum ; Bishop Hough, of C^xford, afterwards of Worcester, date 1690 ; Lloyd (1699), the predecessor of Bishop Hough in the sees of Lichfield and Worcester, and one of the seven prelates sent to the Tower by James IL ; Patrick, Bishop of Ely, 1691 ; Bishop Thomas, of Win- chester, (1761), and Terrick, of London, two good portraits by Dance ; Dr. Benjamin Hoadly, Bishop of Winchester, the production of his wife j Moore, Bishop of Kly, 1707; LAMBETH PALACE. 399 Dr. Fleetwood, 1714 ; Dr. Gooch, 1750 ; and Dr. Mawson, 1754 : all of the same see ; Dr. Pierce, of Bangor, and a large full-length of Charles I. a copy from Vandyk. A singular portrait of Catherine Parr has also found a place here. The Vestry, which is entered from the dining-room, con- tains several good portraits ; of Archbishop Juxon, taken after death, of Martin Luther and his wife, of Cardinal Pole, Dr. Whichcote, Archbishop Tillotson, and some others. The Chapel is 72 feet by 25, and divided into inner and outer b}^ a handsome screen of carved work. On the north and south aisles are three lancet-shaped windows, appa- rently of the 13th century; at the east and w^est ends a larger one, the western having five lights, the other three. In the centre of the former is a beautiful little gothic shrine, supported by an angel holding a shield of arms. The pavement is in chequered squares of black and white marble. The wainscotings and fittings-up are particularly elegant. Pews and stalls are ranged on each side for the officers of the households with seats beneath for the do- mestics. The pulpit, and many other parts, are beautifully carved, especially the archbishop's seat and the screen. The altar-piece is of the corinthian order, painted and gilt. Over the vestry-room is the pew appropriated to the Arch- bishop's family. There appears to have been no interment in this chapel, except that of Archbishop Parker, who died 1575, and requested in his will to be buried near the spot w^here he used to pray. A plain aU%r-tomb erected to his memory stands in another part of the chapel ; but the spot where lie the prelate's remains, is marked by a latin inscrip- tion on the pavement, indicating that " the body of Mat- thew the Archbishop at length rests here." The Post- Room, (so called from a large post or pillar which supports it) forms a sort of vestibule to the chapel. I'he ceiling is ornamented wuth a variety of grotesque forms, of angels, &c. ; one of the faces being remarkable as being an exact resemblance of Henry Vlll. 400 LAMBETH PALACE. Tlie Lcllards' Toiver is an extensive pile of stone, so named from the Lollards' prison at the top of it. The apartments in this tower are now used for domestic pur- poses. The Lollards' Prison is reached hy a small spiral stair- case of stone, much decayed. It is entered hy a little pointed stone door-waj, barely sufficient for one person to pass at a time, which door-way has an inner and outer door of strong oak, thickly studded with iron, and fasten- ings to correspond. The first things that arrest the atten- tion on entering, are, the large iron rings fastened to the wainscot which lines the walls. There are eight of these rings still firmly fixed, and about breast-high, in this order : three on the south side, four on the west side, and one on the north side. The wainscot, the ceiling, and every part of this chamber, are entirely lined with oak nearly an inch and a half in thickness. The prison itself is 12 feet long, 9 feet wide, and 8 feet high. It has two very small *^'indows, narrowing outwards, one to the west, the other to the north. A small chimney is on the north part, and upon the sides are various scratches, half-sentences, initials, and in one or two places, a crucifix, cut out with a knife, or some other sharp instrument, by the prisoners who are supposed to have been confined here. The letters are all in the old English character, and in general made so rudely as not easily to be deciphered. By a small door opposite the entrance to the Lollards' prison is a way to the leads of the chapel, which aflford a very fine prospect of the palace, park, gardens, &c. At the top of this tower is fixed the chapel bell. The exterior of the Lollards' tower, when viewed from the Thames, has a very fine venerable appearance, and is the only part of the palace remaining that is built entirely of stone. It consists of a large tower, and a smaller square projection on the south side, somewhat receding from it : the whole building is five stories high. The larger tower has in front a number of fine windows, wliich give light LAMBETH PALACE. 401 to the several apartments it contains : the smaller one, at the top of which is the prison, is plainer and more massive in its appearance. Between the two windows of the third storj of the former, is a beautiful niche, in which originally stood a statue of Thomas a Becket, the sculpture of the upper part of which is still fresh and sharp. The lower stories of these towers are now used as cellars. The whole is finely shaded by the venerable trees of what is called the Bishop's-walk.* The Cloisters, which are of comparatively modern con- struction, serve merely as avenues. The Cri/pt is at the north-east corner of the cloisters, and is thought to be the oldest part of the palace. Its vaults are now used as cellars, but it is probable that divine w^orship was anciently performed here. The Steward's Parlour is a noble room, of the age of Cranmef, whose motto is painted in several parts of the large bay-window. The Great Hall, which was destroyed during the civil wars, was rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon, on the model of the original apartment, and exactly on its site. The architecture, though in imitation of Gothic, is of the mixed style. The interior is 93 feet long, 38 broad, and 50 in height. In the centre of the roof rises an elegant lantern, surmounted by armorial bearings. The whole of the fabric is highly ornamented ; the roof is of carved oak ; the floor hand- somely paved ; the sides wainscoted to a great height ; and the windows uncommonly spacious and splendid. In the hall are some great oak tables, of ancient date. The Great Gate is enumerated among the buildings of the palace in the steward's accounts, 15 Edward II. Cardinal Morton rebuilt it about the year 1490, in the manner we at present see it. This is perhaps the most mag- nificent building of the kind now remaining, not for the • Allen's Lambellu M M 3 402 LAMBETH PALACE. elegance of its workmanship, but for its vast size and height. It consists of two immense Sv^uare towers, v/ith a spacioua gateway and postern in the centre ; the whole em^battled, and buiU of fine red brick, with stone dressings. The arcli of the gateway is pointed, and the roof beautifully groined. Above is a noble room, called the Record Koom," wherein the archives of the see of Canterbury are deposited. In 1830, some handsome additions were made to Lam- beth Palace, on the site of some old buildings eastward of the hall. These additions are of stone, from designs by E. Blore, Esq., F. S. A. The apartments are private. The park and gardens belonging to Lambeth Palace are laid out with great taste. They now contain at least 18 acres. Of this number the kitchen garden occupies between 3 and 4 acres, and has been walled in at great expense. In this palace several of our sovereigns have been enter- tained ; particularly Henry VII. previous to his coronation : Catherine of Arragon,andher ladies, resided here, prior to her marriage with Henry Prince of Wales (afterwards Henry VIII). Queen Mary often visited her cousin, Car- dinal Archbishop Pole, having, at her own expense, caused the palace to be furnished for his reception : and Queen Elizabeth was frequently entertained here hy Archbishop Parker. To return to the parish : Lambeth forms part of the east half-hundred of Brixton, and commencing near West- minster and Waterloo bridges, comprehends Kennington, Vauxhall, and extends from the latter place to Southwark, Streatham, Norwood, and Croydon, in all, a circumference of 18 miles. Besides the churches before mentioned, this parish contains numerous chapels and meeting-houses for dissenters of every denomination, an asylum for female orphans (see London), the Westminster Lying-in-Hospital, the Royal Infirmary for children (over Waterloo bridge, astablished 1824), Astley's Amphitheatre (see London), LAM BOURNE. 403 and Vauxhall Gardens (see Vauxljall) ; and three bridges connect the parish with the metropolis. Its chief manu- factories are, Beaufoy's vinegar works, a patent shot manufactory, several manufactories of hats and coarse pottery, some iron- works and breweries, and Hodges' dis- tillery. Many of the houses in Fore-street and its neigh- bourhood, near the river, ODce the principal part of the parish, exhibit the most ancient specimens of building now standing in the metropolis. LAMBETH SOUTH, a district so named, lying chiefly between Vauxhall Turnpike and the Swan at Stockwell. Here are many genteel houses, especially on the Law72, a chapel built by subscription, and a very extensive vinegar manufactory. It is a hamlet to the parish of Lambeth : in it resided for many years. Dr. Ducarel, an eminent antiquary, author of a history of Croydon and other works, and Mr. Edward Moore, the author of the Gamester," and Fables for the Female Sex." LAMBOURNE, a small parish and village near Chigwell in Essex, situated wholly in the forest, is diversified with hill and dale, and commands many interesting prospects. The village itself is inconsiderable, and its houses irregular and straggling ; but the improving village of Abridge, which adjoins, and indeed forms a continuation of Lambourne, adds much to its attractions. Here was formerly a man- sion, erected by Sir Jchn Fortescue Aland, Knt., who was lord of the manor of Lambourne, and created Baron Fortescue for his services as chief-justice of the Court of Common Pleas, A.D* 1746. The church of this parish is tiled, and has a leaded spire with three bells. In the chancel are three windows of stained glass, and a fourth containing live pieces of curious old painting, w^ith an inscription in German under each. The latter were brought from Switzerland in 1817, and are supposed to have be- longed to some foreign convent. At the east end of the church, within the rails of the communion table, lies buried Dr. Thomas Wynniffe, Bishop of Lincoln, Dean 404 LANGDON. of St. Paul's, and rector of this parish. Near the altar is a long latin inscription to his memory. His father was also buried here, A. D. 1630. Nearthe bishop lies the body of the Rev. Michael Tyson, F.R.S., buried here in 1780. There are many other inscriptions and monuments in this church, especially to the Lockwood family, of Dews-hall, to Thomas Tooke, D.D., and the Dowager Lady de Rous, Near the north window of the chancel is a beautiful monu- ment of white marble, with a representation of Hope, the anchor on her left, and her right arm reclining on an urn, in alto relievo. It is to the memory of one of the family of Lockwood, and was executed by Wilton, a sculptor eminent in the reign of George III. On the floor of the church, with numerous effigies of the offspring of the deceased, is the following ancient inscription : Of your charyte pray for the soules of Robert Barefoot, cytezyn and mercer of London, and Katherine hys wyfF ; which Robert decessy'd the XXV day of June, 1546, on whose souls the Lord J'hu have mercy." Admiral Sir Edward Hughes, K. B. is buried under a square tomb in the church-yard, with his lady, and two of her sons by a former husband. LANGDON, OR LAINDON, a parish in Essex, 22 miles from London. The name signifies, in Saxon, long- hill, and is appropriately applied to this parish, which is situate on a hill nearly a mile in length and breadth, from the summit of which is the finest view in Essex, and one which is at least equal to any in England. From the north, the ascent of this hill is gradual and easy ; but from the other sides, the traveller is astonished at the descent before him, which exhibits a very beautiful and extensive valley, with a view of London to the right, the Thames winding through the valley, and the prospect extending to the left beyond the Medway. Mr. Young, in his **Six Weeks' Tour through the Southern Counties," thus de- scribes this prospect : ** On the summit of a vast hill, one of the most astonishing prospects to be beheld, breaks out almost at once, upon one of the dark lanes : such a pro- LANGLEY LATTON. 405 digious valley, every where painted with the finest verdure, and intersected with numberless hedges and woods, ap- pears beneath you, that it is past description ; the Thames winding' through it, full of ships, and bounded by the hills of Kent. Nothing can exceed it, unless that which Hannibal exhibited to his disconsolate troops, when he bade them behold the glories of the Italian plains ! If ever a turnpike-road should lead through this country, I beg you will go and view this enchanting scene ; though a journey of forty miles be necessary for it. I never beheld anything equal to it in the west of England, that region of landscape !" This turnpike-road is not now wanting to augment the pleasure of the traveller. The church of this parish stands to the w^est of the hill : it is not remarkable, but forms a picturesque object in the view. LANGLEY BROOM, or MARSH, a scattered village in Buckinghamshire, 18 miles W.S.W. from London, and i ^ from Colnbrook. The parish consists of three districts, called Westmore Green, Horsemore Green, and the Southern or Middle Green. It contains several handsome villas. Langley Broom was frequently appointed by his Majesty George III, as the rendezvous for turning out the deer, and for meeting the nobility previous to the chase. Langley Park is the seat of 11. Hervey, Esq., a liandsome stone building, erected by the late Duke of Maiiborcugh. It is in the centre of a fine park, abounding with a variety of timber. A piece of water runs along the south front of the house, at the foot of a sloping lawn, on which are scattered some beautiful clumps of trees, and other woodland scenery. A rising ground at the west ex- tremity of the park, leads to an extensive inclosure called the Black Park, entirely covered by firs, except where some roads are cut. In the centre is a fine lake. LATTON, a parish in Essex, 23 miles from London, containing about 300 inhabitants only, dwelling in houses distant from each other, without any appearance of a 406 LAVER. village. The place, however, is noted for a priory, which anciently existed here, for monks of the order of St. Au- gustine. The priory-church, now used as a barn, was on the south of the present church of Latton. It consists of a nave and a cross aisle ; the inside of the lighter style of gothic architecture, with pointed arches. The materials of this edifice are flints, stones, mortar, and lloman bricks ; and what appears to have been the site of the priory, is surrounded by a moat, beyond which, on the south, human bones have been frequently found ; from which we may conclude this to have been the ancient burial-place. East of the church, on the outside of the moat, there appears rising ground and a hollow place, like the remains of an intrenchment. The interval between the rise and the moat has been named by the inhabitants, the monks' bowling-green.'' In an elevated field in this parish, near Harlow, are the remains of a Roman station. The works are still plainly visible, and the foundations of very strong walls are trace- able below the surface of the ground. Many relics of antiquity have been found here — a small bronae head of Silenus, a large brooch, fragments of a cup of Samian- ware, and numerous interesting coins. The church of Latton is dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; northward of the chancel is a chapel, built by Sir Peter Ardern, chief Baron of the Exchequer, in the reigns of Henry VI. and Edward IV., to whose memory there is a Gothic altar-tomb, under an arch in the north wall, within the communion rails. In the church is still remaining a confessionary chair, and there are several old and curious monuments, especially to the Altham family, anciently lords of this manor, — See Mark Hall. LAVER, a name given to three contiguous parishes in Essex, distinguished from each other by the appellations of High, Magdalen, and Little. High Laver, sometimes called Great and Kivg ^s Laver, is distant from Chelmsford 14 miles, and from London 22. LAVER. 407 In this parish was formerly a manor-house called OateSy (now pulled down) in which the celebrated John Locke passed the greater portion of the last ten years of his life. It was then the seat of Sir Francis and Lady Damaris Masham, in whose family the philosopher lived with as much ease and freedom as if the whole house had been his own. The lady, in particular, who had been inured from her infancy to contemplation and study, was his constant friend and companion, consoling him to his last moments, by reading to him, and other kind offices. Mr. Locke died here in 1704, aged 73, and was buried on the south side of the church-yard, under a black marble grave-stone, inclosed with iron rails. In the church is his epitaph, in Latin, written by himself, as published in his works. The church is distinguished by a lofty wooden spire, and con- tains many monuments and inscriptions, especially in me- mory of the Masham family. A broken brass plate in the chancel bears an imperfect inscription in ancient characters, to inform us that it was to the memory of Robert Ram- sey, and his wife Joane." Under the effigy of a man and woman, on a brass plate, in old English characters, is the following curious inscription. " Herelieth in grave iindre this marbyl harde, Of John Copto, esquier, the daught and heyre by right, Myrabyll, late wyfe of Edward Sulyard, Coosyn and heire of Thomas Fleramyng, Knyght, Whois vtue, worth, and womanly delite, Remayne shall in Esex in pptuall memorie, Sith deth hathe her rafte owte of the psent light." Magdalen Laver, so named from its church being dedicated to Mary Magdalen, is pleasantly situate between High Laver and Bobbingworth. The church has an ancient wooden screen, which separates the nave from the chancel, and a belfry of wood leaded. There is a Latin inscription on a monument in the chancel, of which the following is a translation : " Sacred to the memory of 408 LEA LEATHER HEAD. George Kindleton, B. D. rector of this church, an intrepid defender of the orthodox faith, and of the church of England. He having strongly opposed the Scottish con- federacy, and the English treason, was driven from this flock and church, where he had abode seventeen years : and was afterwards banished from his beloved church sixteen years. Until, through the pity of this clamorous nation, on the miraculous restoration of King Charles the Second, he returned to it ; from whence, after four 3'ears, he removed to the most blest abodes and heavenly joys, having lived sixty-one years. His most affectionate and affected wife, Emma, caused this marble to be erected to his memory, on the 3rd of January, in the Christian ajra, 1667." In 1757, as some workmen were ploughing in a field in this parish, called Red Mill Shot, belonging to Mr. John Cozens, they discovered a stone coffin, two feet and a half deep, six feet and a half long, and the lid and sides four inches thick. The lid was not fastened, and when taken off, the skull and other bones of the person inclosed ap- peared entire : in the same field human bones have been ploughed up, and a tradition prevails, that the churcli formerly stood in this situation, which is near the centre of the parish. Little Laver is a mile eastward of High Laver, and 23 miles from London. It has a small church. LEA, a river that rises near Luton, in Bedfordshire, whence it flows obliquely to Hertford and Ware, from the former of which towns (partly by a cut made for the purpose) it is navigable to the Thames. Near Ware, a considerable portion of its waters is diverted into the channel of the New River. It collects, in its course, all the streams of the northern and eastern parts of the countv, and dividing Essex from Herts and Middlesex, falls into the Thames a little below Blackwall. LEATHEIIHEAD, a village in Surrey, (anciently a market- town) between Epscm and Dorking, 18 miles S.W. Leatherhead. 409 flrom London, healthfully and pleasantly situate on rising- ground, on the east bank of the river Mole, which, having hidden its "diving flood" at Micklehara, at the foot of Box-Hill, re-appears near this place. Over the river is a neat brick bridge of 14 arches. The village consists chiefly of four intersecting streets, in which are several capital houses. The church is an ancient structure in the form of a cross, but much altered by repairs. In the centre of the south transept was formerly a chantry, in- closed with gothic wainscoting of oak, part of which still remains. The nave and aisles, which formed the original church, are apparently of the 13th century ; the tower, transept and chancel, appear to have been built a century later. In the chancel are three arcades, which are sup- posed to have been used by the canons of Leeds, when they made a visitation to this church, of which the convent and priory of Leeds were anciently impropriators. In the interior are several mementos to persons of rank, but no remarkable monuments. Here is interred the young grand- daughter of George, Earl of Cholmondeley, who, in 1806, was killed hereby being thrown from a barouche, in which she was i)roceeding with her R. H. the Princess Charlotte and Lady Sheffield, to Norbury Park. In the south street is a large house called the mansion- house, in which Lord Chancellor JefFeries resided in 1688. A daughter of his was buried here. It was rebuilt about 17 10, by Dr. Akehurst, M. D., and was afterwards the residence of General Gore, wdiose heiress married W. Wade, Esq., long master of the ceremonies at Bath and Brighton. Adjoining the church-yard is a house called the church-house," the timber-frame of which is at least as old as the reign of Eliza- beth ; and near the bridge is a small public house, built of timber, with over-hanging stories, and a roof of heavy Sussex slate, said to be the identical house in which Eleanor Ptum- ming, the ale-wife celebrated by Skelton, sold her famous ale in the reigns of Henry VlLand Vlll. The rcctory-hcuse, at N N 410 LEE LEITH HILL. the south ,end of the town, is an attractive residence, much improved hy its tasteful plantations. Around Leatherhead are numerous elegant seats — Givens Grove, H. Bolton, Esq.; Thorncroft, James Trower, Esq. ; Randall Park, N. Bland, Esq.; Elm Bank, Captain Clarke; Vale Lodge, T. Dickens, Esq.; and the whole road from Leatherhead to Dorking is exceedingly beauti- ful, presenting a fresh landscape at every turn. LEE, a rural village in Kent, six miles from London, on the road to Maidstone. At this place, and in its vicinity, are several handsome seats. Those which are particularly worthy of notice, are Lee Place, the family estate of the late Lady Dacre, but now occupied by — Shuter, Esq. Lee Grove, Thomas Brandram, Esq.; and an elegant mansion, with extensive grounds, called, we believe, the Manor House, occupied by — Shaw, Esq. The merchant- tailors' company have some alms-houses here for poor widows. In the church-yard are three fine monuments ; the first of the Boone, the second of the Fludyer family, and the third erected by Lady Dacre, (who now lies buried in the tomb she herself erected) to the memory of the Hon. Charles Roper, Baron Dacre, her husband. Her Ladyship, it is recorded, used, up to a very late period of her life, to visit this tomb almost daily ; w^here kneeling in reverence at the foot of the grave, she poured forth the effusions of her heart, and besought the Creator again to join her in blissful union with her beloved husband. Dr. Edmund Halley, the great astronomer- royal, (whose comet has so lately visited us, according to his predictions) lies interred here, under a plain tomb, with a latin inscription. Here also lies buried, with a small head-stone, Mr. W. Parsons, the comedian. The church is a picturesque object, having some fine trees round it, among which are two very beautiful yews. LEITH HILL, 5 miles S.W. of Dorking, Surrey, runs from east to west, and is by far the highest ground in that LEim HILL. 411 county. The best approach is from Wotton, where the ascent is so gentle that the extraordinary elevation is scarcely suspected until the summit of the hill is attained, and the glorious prospect from the further extremity bursts on the astonished sight. Of the surpassing beauty of this unrivalled panorama we have the attestation of the cele- brated critic John Dennis, whose description is as appro- priate 710W as it was when he penned it, '* In a late journey through Surry (says Mr. Dennis, in a letter to his friend Mr. Sarjeant), I passed over a hill, which showed me a more transporting sight than ever the country had shewn me before, either in England or Italy. The prospects which in Italy pleased me most were, the Valdarno, from the Appennines ; Rome, and the Mediterra- nean, from the mountains of Viterbo ; the former at forty, and the latter at fifty, miles distance : and the Campagna of Rome, from Tivoli and Frescati : from which places you see every foot of that famous champagne, even from the bottom of the Tivoli and Frescati to the very foot of the mountains of Viterbo, without any thing to intercept your sight. But, from a hill I passed in my late journey, I had a prospect more extensive than any of these, and which surpassed them at once in rural charms, pomp, and magnificence. The hill which I speak of is called Leith Hill, which faces the Downs, and is situated about six miles south of Dorking. It juts out about two miles beyond that range of hills, which terminates the North Downs on the south. When I saw from one of those hills, that side of Leith Hill, it appeared the most beautiful prospect I had ever seen ; but after w^e had conquered the hill itself, I saw a sight that would transport a stoic \ a sight that looked like enchantment and a vision ! Beneath us lay open to our view all the wilds of Surrey and Sussex, and a great part of those of Kent, admi- rably diversified in every part of them with woods, and fields of corn, and pasture, and every -where adorned with stately rows of trees. This beautiful vale is about 412 LEITII HILL. thirty miles in breadth, and about sixty in length, and is terminated to the south by tbo majestic range of the southern hills and the sea; and it is no easy matter to decide, whether the hills which appear thirty, forty or fifty miles distant, with their tops in the sky, seem more awful and venerable, or the delicious vale between you and them more inviting. About noon, on a serene day, you may at thirty miles distance see the water of the sea through a chasm of the mount^iin (that is of the South Downs, called Beeting Gap ;) and that above all which makes it a noble and wonderful prospect, is, that at the very time that at thirty miles distance you behold to the southward the most delicious rural prospect in the world, at the same time, by a little turn of your head towards the north, you look full over Box Hill, and see the country beyond it between that and London ; and over the very stomachers of it see St. Paul's at twenty-five miles distance, and London beneath it, and Hampstead and Highgate beyond it!" Leith Hill commands a view^ of the county of Surrey, part of Hamp- shire, Berkshire, and Nettlebed, in Oxfordshire, some parts of Bucks, Hertfordshire, Middlesex, Kent, and Essex ; and by the help of glasses, Wiltshire. The whole circumference of the extent of prospect isatleasttwo hun- dred miles, which far exceeds that of the keep and terrace at Windsor Castle, over which you may see as far as the eye, unassisted with art^ is able to distinguish land from sky. Leith Hill Tower which stands upon one of the points of this delightful eminence was built in 1766 as a prospect house, by Richard Hull, Esq., who had been many years a member of the Irish Parliament, and had purchased a small estate on the eastern slope of this hill, called Leith Hill Place, after 1748. Within it was an inscribed slab, now broken into pieces, importing that Mr. Hull *' having retired from public business to the exercise of the private virtues, and chosen this deligbtful spot for the depository of his bones, was here interred he died in 1772. Since that period the tower has been heightened, so as to form LEW— LEY 413 a very conspicuous object as a sea-mark ; but the lower part having- been walled up, the intent of its founder is no longer answered. LE WISH AM, Kent, a pleasant village, five miles and a half south from London, near Lee, The church is an edifice of some elegance, and contains several handsome monuments by Banks and Flaxman. At the back of the church is a hill, wdth an oak upon it, called the Oak of Honour, because Queen Elizabeth is said to have dined under it. The original tree has long since perished ; but another oak was planted to preserve the tradition, and now flourishes. In and round the village are several good residences, and some conspicuous seats ; as The Priory, — Thackeray, Esq. , the Lime Kilns^ — Lee, Esq. ; Brockley House ^ — Shedden, Esq. ; on Loom-pit Hill, Comical Honsey the residence of Mr. Moline, a Quaker, and at the entrance of Lewisham, the residence of D. W. Harvey, Esq. M. P. In this parish are some mineral springs of a cathartic quality, nearly resembling Epsom salts. LEYTON or LOW LEYTON, and LEYTONSTONE, two villages in Essex, forming one parish, the first situate on low grounds, near the meadow^s, being termed Low Leyton, and the upper part, Leytonstone. Leyton, of the river Lea or Ley, and the Saxon tun^ signifies etymo- logically a town by the Lea; the addition of stone was given in consequence of there having been anciently a Koman military stone in that part of the parish. Each village is about 5 miles from Shoreditch church. Low Leyton contains some fine seats, embosomed in trees, and a vast number of attractive villa residences ; but most of these are continually changing owners. Leytonstone, too, has some good houses, chiefly tenanted by London mer- chants and traders ; it is a long straggling place. Several Roman remains have been dug up here. The church is of brick, with a nave, north and south aisles, and a tower of stone and brick. The interior has many inscriptions on escutcheons and monuments. In the chancel is a memorial 414 LIM — LIN. of the celebrated historian and antiquary, John Strype, who held this vicarage 68 years. He was buried here in 1737, at the age of ninety-four. In the north aisle is the monument of Charles Goring, Earl of Norwich, who died in 1670; and a marble tablet to the memory of Mr. William Bowyer, a learned and eminent printer, partner of the late Mr. John Nichols, author of the " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," and other well-known works, and the original printer and proprietor of the Gentleman's Magazine." This parish has a free-school for boys, a school of industry for girls, Sunday schools, and numerous other charities. LIMEHOUSE, a parish in Middlesex, 2 miles east of Lon- don, lying partly on the banks of the Thames, and forming the eastern extremity of the metropolis. It was formerly a hamlet of Stepney, but is now a large and very populous parish of itself, containing upwards of 10,000 inhabitants, almost all of wdiom are employed in trade. The church which is one of the fifty erected in the reign of Queen Anne, is a handsome structure. At Limehouse Hole are some considerable yards for ship-building. A canal from the river Lea, and the Kegent's Canal (being a branch of the Grand Junction) both enter the Thames here — See Gravesend — Trlj) hy Steafn, LINGFIELD, a village in Surrey, 25 miles from Lon- don, and 5 1 S.S.E.from Godstone. On the common, is a chalybeate spring, said to possess the same virtues as the waters of Tunbridge. The church is an ancient structure of squared brown stone, covered with Horsham slate. In the centre light of the east window is a female sitting, with a musical instrument in her hand ; in each of the side lights are remnants of pinnacled buildings, and some stained glass. There are several ancient and curious monuments, especially to the lords Cobham and Howard of Effingham. A college for Carthusian monks (long since demolished) was founded at this place by Reginald Lord Cobham, in 1441. LIT LON. 415 LITTLE THUJIROCK, or East Thuirock, a parish m Essex, 25 miles from London, on the border of the Thames. In the south wall of the church of this place are some arches, supported by pillars so as to form a recess, the object of which is not known. LONDON DOCKS (The) are situate near the banks of the Thames, in the midst of Wapping-, in an angle formed by the river, between Hermitage dock and Shadwell. One immense dock, called St. George's Dock, covers the space extending from Virginia-street almost to Old Gravel-lane, in one direction, and in the other from Artichoke-lane to the south side of Pennington-street. This dock alone is capable of holding 200 ships, with room for shifting. Another dock, called Shadwell Dock, adjoining to the other, wall hold about 50 ships. The immense excava- tions necessary for these docks were commenced and completed by a company of merchants, incorporated by parliament ; they were first opened in 1802, for the general reception of all trading ships, (except those of the East and West India trades, v^hich have their exclusive docks) but particularly of those laden w^ith wine, spirits, tobacco, rice, &c. On the north side, are large and substantial w^arehouses for general purposes, built with brick on stone basements. On the east side, are two extensive tobacco warehouses, the largest being 7 62 feet long, and 160 wide; and the smallest 250 feet long, and 200 wide : the former is equally divided by a strong partition-wall with double iron doors. Both of them consist of a ground floor and vaults ; the first is w^holly applied to the housing of tobacco, and the latter to the storing of brandies, &c. ; the wines are also stored in the cellars of the smaller w^are- houses. The tobacco warehouses, and the wane and spirit vaults, are under the sole controul of the officers of the customs, the proprietors of the docks only attending to the landing of the goods, and receiving the dues. LONG DITTO N, a parish and rectory in Surrey, 2 miles south of Kingston. The village is pleasant in the summer, 416 LON — LUL. but low and humid in the winter season. A neat church was built here about twenty years since. The Marchioness of Cholmondeley and the Ladies Clement have seats here, and there are many agreeable villas in the vicinity. LONGFORD, a hamlet of the parish of Harmondsworth, Middlesex, 15 miles west from London, on the Bath road^ situate on the banks of the river Coin, and much frequented by anglers. LOUGHTON, an extensive parish in Essex, wholly within the forest of Epping. The village, which is delight- fully situate 11 J miles E.N.E. from London, extends nearly two miles on the Epping road, and is noted for its numerous genteel houses, and the beautiful scenery around it. Debden Green and Bucket Green are thickly studded with elegant villas and first-rate houses. A mile beyond the village is Golden Hill, with several handsome seats, commanding rich and extensive prospects, especially Golden Hill House, Robert Barker, Esq. The manor-house, called Loughton Hall, is near the church, and is now the property of William Whitaker Maitland, Esq. who is lord of this manor. It is a large irregular building, but pleasantly situate. To this mansion, the Princess Anne^ of Denmark, afterwards Queen Anne, retired in 1688, on the flight of James II, her father, from England. Loughton church has been recently rebuilt in a handsome style, at some distance from the village. It contains several monu- mental brasses, with inscriptions of the 16th century. On a hill within 1| mile of this place, is the celebrated sign of the Baldfaced Stag, where annually, on Easter Monday, a stag is turned out before a multitude of hunts- men, chiefly from London, forming a scene of real mirth and ludicrous misery, which will well repay the trouble of a visit in the character of spectator. LULLINGSTONE PLACE, or PARK, the seat of Sir Percival Hart Dyke, Bart., is situate on the road from Farningham to Sevenoaks, in Kent, 2 miles beyond the former place. The venerable castellated appearance oi MAD — MAH. 417 this seat, whicb stands in a fine park, in a valley which falls precipitously from the high road, cannot fail to attract the eye of every traveller in this direction. — See Shoreham and Otford, MADAM'S COURT HILL.-— See Movant's Court Hill. MAIDA HILL and VALE, a pleasant portion of the parish of Paddington, situate ahout 2 miles from the end of Oxford-street, on the Edgware-road. This spot has, within the last few years, risen in attraction, on account of the many genteel and elegant residences erected here. MALDEN, or MAULDON, Surrey, a village 4 miles S.E. from Kingston, has a powder-mill on a stream, which runs hence to Ewell. The church is ancient ; by the pulpit is a stand for an hour-glass. Of this parish was vicar, Rogers Ruding, the author of a well-known work on English coinage ; he died in 1820. MARUEN PARK, near Godstone, Surrey, at x)resent or recently unoccupied, is noted as having been from 1680, the residence of Sir Robert Clayton, Knt., lord-mayor of London, and his descendants. This was more recently the seat of Thomas Hatsell, Esq. MARK HALLorMERK HALL, an elegant mansion in Essex, the seat of the Rev. Joseph Arkwright, is situate near the church of Latton, and includes the manors of Latton Hall, Burnt Hall, and others, part of which anciently formed the lands of Latton Priory, with farms amounting to about 500 acres. The ancient manor-house, named after Le Merc, one of its earliest possessors, existed in the 12th century, and its owners may be traced from that date. In 1562, it was purchased by the Althara family, who also bought Latton Hall, with the site of the priory, thus becoming' possessed of nearly the whole parish, which they enjoyed for many generations. At length Sir William Altham sold the whole estate to William Lushington, Esq. who rebuilt the house and sold it with the manors to Mon- tague Burgoyne, Esq. It was last sold in 1819, to the 418 MAIIYLEBONE. present possessor, or a member of his family, for 100,000 guineas. The apartments are spacious and elegantly fitted up, and the mansion is surrounded by a large park-like lawn. MARYBONE, or St. MARYLEBONE, an extensive parish of the metropolis, in Middlesex, on the N.W . side of London. It was anciently called Tyburn, from its situation near a small hourn, or rivulet, running from the south side of llampstead, and thence subterraneously through Marylebone, Oxford- street, St. James's Park, and Westminster, into the Thames. Mr. Lysons conjectures that, when the church of Tyburn, at that time a small country village, was removed to a fresh site on this bourn, the parish was first called St. Mary-le-hourn ; an etymology of the present name which is at least plausible. The ancient account of this portion of the suburbs of London, forms a curious contrast with its present state. Here was once a royal park, well stocked with game, and in Queen Elizabeth's Progresses, it is recorded, that ** on the 3d. of February, 1600, the ambassadors from the Emperor of Russia, and other Muscovites, rode through the city of Lon^ don to Marybone Park^ and there hunted at their pleasure.'* Even at the commencement of the last century, Marylebone was a small village distant at least 1 mile from the nearest part of London; and Lambert, who wrote in 1739, speaks of it as containing only about 500 houses, of the tenants of which thirty-five kept coaches. In 1830, 77 houses in this parish were assessed at rentals of o£400 and upwards ; 164 houses at from ^300 to .3^400 ; the total number of inhabitants, according to the census of 1831, was 122, 206. The old church of this parish, which is still standing, in IVIarylebone-lane, near the top of the High-street, is a neat structure of some antiquity, without a gallery. The vast increase of population had long rendered this small church inadequate for the accommodation of the inhabitants, and several chapels of ease had been erected in various parts of the parish, but chiefly by private individuals on specula- MEO MER. 419 tion, when about the year 1812, an act of parliament was passed for the erection of four new churches for this tlistrict — one, which generally goes by the name of Marylebone new church,'* is situate in the New-road, at the corner of High-street. It was commenced in 1813, and finished in 1817 — architect, Mr. Hardwicke — expense said to have been above ^80,000. The portico (which is of the Corinthian order) is raised on six steps, and is after the style of the Pantheon in Rome ; and the tower is ornamented with figures representing the winds. The interior is thought to be too theatrical. The other three churches are, Trinity Church, New-road, (opposite Norton-street^ which is the work of Sir John Soane, and has a Grecian portico, and a very beautiful steeple } Christ Churchy Church-street, Lisson Grove; and St. Mary's, Bry anston- square . The Workhouse of this parish, situate on the New-road, is a spacious building, capable of containing upwards of a thousand persons. In St. John's Wood, in this parish, is a school for orphan children of the clergy, erected here in 1809. Near it is Lord's Cricket Ground, On the New- road are several important charities and other institutions, not immediately connected with this parish. MEOPHAM, a pretty village in Kent, about 25 miles from London, surrounded with coppice-woods, and noted as the birth-place of the once celebrated Simon Meopham, archbishop of Canterbury. The church and Court-lodge here, have some attractions for the antiquary. MERTON, a village in Surrey, 8 miles S.W. from London, situate on the river Wandle, over which is a bridge erected in 1633, which forms a boundary -mark of the three parishes of Wimbledon, Mitcham, and Merton. Upper Merton is the village next beyond Tooting, on the high-road to Epsom and Dorking, and is chiefly occupied by humble dwellings and shops, for the residence and accommodation of persons engaged in the various factories of the place. Here, on difl;erent parts of the Wandle, 420 MERTON* are the extensive copper-mill and factory of Messrs. Shears, a large flour-mill, and a calico-printer's, which employ a vast number of hands. Here are also spacious bleaching grounds, and large tracts devoted to the production of camomiles, lavender, roses, &c. for the chemists. The church, which is at Lower Merton, a considerable distance from this part of the village, is built of flints, its breadth being very disproportioned to its length. In the chancel walls are large pointed arches, in the centre of which are narrow sharp-pointed windows. This church was built in the 12th century, by Gilbert Norman, the founder of Mer- ton Abbey, as appears from a MS. in the Herald's College. There is but little doubt of the present church being tlie original structure ; it has been much repaired, but not essentially altered. There are no remarkable monuments ; but in the chancel window are some remains of stained glass, with the arms of England and of the priory of Merton. A convent of wood was first built at Merton, by Gilbert Norman, sheriff of Surrey in 1115. This convent was removed in 1130, and another built of stone, into which the canons were inducted in 1136 by the bishops of St. Asaph and Rochester. From this period, until its dissolution in 1538, Merton Abbey rose in riches and importance. Its prior was one of the mitred abbots who had a seat in parlia- ment. In 1236, a parliament was held in Merton Abbey, wherein were enacted statutes which take their name from that place. In this house also was concluded the peace between Henry III and the dauphin of France, through the mediation of the pope's legate. Here Hubert De Burg, chief justice of England, fled for sanctuary when first apprised of the king's displeasure. The site of the abbey was granted by Queen Mary to the priory at Shene. After the dissolution of that monastery, it was kept for some time in the hands of the crown, and was leased by Queen Elizabeth to Gregory Level. It was afterwards granted to Nicholas Zouch, and appears to have passed through the hands of various persons. MICKLEHAM. 421 Little remains of the ancient monastery : the principal object is the vestige of the east window of the chapel, of crumbling stone, which seems to have been built in the fifteenth century. The walls which surrounded the premises, including a space of about 60 acres, are nearly entire, being built of flints. An establishment for printing calicoes was established here in 1724. It is now in the occupation of Mr. J. Ancell, and a leather-dresser, and silk factor. In Upper Merton, was formerly a handsome house, with elegant grounds, called Merton Grove, where Lord Nelson resided with lady Hamilton, and was frequently to be seen amusing himself with fly-fishing in the Wandle, which then boasted of some trout, now departed to less troubled water. The whole site of this estate is now covered with small tenements. On the left of the high-road from Tooting to Merton, is Collier's Wood, a villa with extensive grounds, the seat of Boyd Miller, Esq. ; through Upper Merton, on the right hand road, (to Wimbledon) is the retirement of Mr. Justice Parke ; and near it the seat of Col. R. Gordon. Lower Merton is distinguished from Upper by its consisting chiefly of private houses, and being a place of a more rural character. It contains a few genteel residences, and may boast of some pleasant fields and walks. MICKLEHAM, a pleasant village in Surrey, at the foot of Box Hill, in the valley beiween Leatherhead and Dork- ing. The church is of great antiquity. It is bvilt of stone, and consists of a nave, a chancel, a small chapel on the north side, and a south aisle separated from the nave by round pillars, supporting semicircular arches. At the west end is a square low tower. The form of the circular-headed windows in the chancel, the arch dividing the chancel from the nave, and the western door- way, conspire to fix the architecture as Anglo-Norman. A proposal was made in 18^2 to repair the church, and increase the accommodation by erecting a gallery ; but the ancient walls and roofs were found to be so far decayed, that it was nece;asary to rebuild O 422 MILE-EJJD. the whole of the nave and part of the tower. This being done, the remainder of the church was renovated with admirable effect. The parish of Mickleham, which comprehends the greater part of Box Hill, contains several elegant seats ; as Juniper Hilly a handsome house, with fanciful planta- tions, the seat of the relict of Sir Lucas Pepjs, Bart., and Juniper Hall, formerly the residence of Thomas Broad- wood, Esq., but now of Miss Beardmore. — See Norbury Park, MILE-END, a hamlet of the parish of Stepnej, Mid- dlesex, so named from its situation, which is 1 mile E. from Whitechapel church. The place consists of two divisions, namely the Old and the New town, both densely populated. The latter has been greatly increased of late years by new buildings stretching on the road to Stratford. A large national school, on Dr. Bell's system, has been established here for some years, and the Trinity Corpora- tion have a row of almshouses, in one of which the widow of Captain Cook, the circumnavigator, resided. Here, too, on the north side of the Mile-end road, are Bancroft's ex- tensive Almshouses, School and Chapel, erected in 1735, pursuant to the will of Francis Bancroft, who bequeathed ^28,000, for purchasing a site, and erecting and endowing the building. In the founder's will (which, as well as the rules and orders for the pensioners and boys, are in print) is the following singular clause: ^'My body I desire may be embalmed within six days after my death, and my entrails to be put into a leaden box, and enclosed in my coffin, or placed in my vault next the same, as shall be most convenient ; and that my coffin be made of oak, lined with lead ; and that the top or lid thereof be hung with strong hinges, neither to be nailed, screwed, locked down, or fastened any other way, but to open freely, and without any trouble, like to the top of a trunk !" This singular order gave rise to the report that the old gentleman made his appearance after his death at certain seasons of the year. MILL HILL MILTON 423 The almshouses are for twenty-four poor old men, who were allowed by the founder's will ^8. per annum, and coals ; but the improvements in the estate have admitted the pensions to be augmented to ^IS per annum. The school-room is for 100 boys, with dwelling houses for two masters. The boys, who are appointed by the Drapers' Company, are now clothed, boarded, lodged, and taught reading, writing, and accounts. They are admitted between the ages of seven and ten, and suffered to remain till fifteen, when they are allowed by the will ^4t. for an apprentice- fee, or ^2 10s. to fit them for service. This structure occupies three sides of a spacious quadrangle. On the north-side are the chapel, the school, and the dwelling-house for the masters ; the former having a handsome stone portico of the Ionic order. On the east and west sides are the habitations of the pensioners. MILL HILL, a hamlet of the parish of Hendon, Mid- dlesex, 9^ miles N. from London, on a fine eminence, which, from several of its points, commands delightful views. Here are several very pleasant seats. MILTON, Kent, 22 miles from London, generally termed " Milton next Gravesend," forms, in fact, part of the latter town and parish. It has a church, however, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, on the site whereon one stood when Domesday Book was compiled. The present edifice appears to have been erected on the foun- dation of a former one, between three and four hundred years ago, and since that period to have been renovated from time to time. It has lately been very neatly repaired. On the south porch of this church, is a curious sun-dial. On the top of it is this motto : — " Trifle not ; your time's but short." Under this motto are curve lines, eleven in number, forming conical sections across the dial, and called parallels of the length of the day; the uppermost is the tropic of Capricorn, marked at both ends with its proper character. 424 MIL MIM. The others immediately under are marked 3, 9, 10, 11; that marked 12 being the equinoctial line, having at one end the sign Aries, and at the other Libra ; the remaining lines below are marked 13, 14, 15, 16, the lowermost line being the tropic of Cancer, also distinguished at both ends by its j3roper character. By the sliadow of a small ball fixed on a stile, called a nodus^ the several lengths of the day- are pointed out. This ingenious instrument was invented by Mr. James Giles, who lies buried in the church-yard. Milton has some pleasant residences, some pretty walks, some beautiful views, and a very excellent library (Jsiv, Penny's.) MILTON COURT, near Dorking, now a large farm- house, is supposed to be wholly of the time of Queen Elizabeth, while the mill in front is said to be the identical mill mentioned in Domesday-book ! This was the resi- dence of Jeremiah Markland. — See Dorking, Near Milton Heath is one of those artificial mounds termed barrows. MIMMS, NORTH, a village in Herts, 12 miles from Hatfield, and 12 from London. In the church, which is an ancient structure in the pointed style, is a splendid monu- ment to the Lord High Chancellor Somers, buried here in 1716. Here, also, are several monuments for the Sam- brokes of Gobions, and the Coningsbjs and Botelers. North Mimms Park, once a possession of the Coningsbys, became the property of Peregrine Osborne, Duke of Leeds, after whose decease it was sold to Henry Browne, Esq., and subsequently to Mr. Alderman Heygate, the present possessor. The house is a substantial quadrangular struc- ture of brick, inclosing a spacious court, and having two principal fronts. It stands in the midst of a large park (comprising about 534 acres), pleasantly diversified with wood, pasture, meadow and arable lands. The manor is co-extensive with the parish of North Mimms, and is held of the Duchy of Lancaster. Drookmari's, another seat in this neighbourhood, for- merly the property of the Lord Chancellor Somers, was, MIMMS — MITCIiAM. 425 after his death, inhabited by Sir Joseph Jekyll, Master of the Rolls, who had married Eliza, the sister and heiress of Lord Somers. It now belongs to the relict of S. R. Gaussen, Esq. The house is surrounded by a plea- sant park. — See Gabions, MIMMS, SOUTH, a village of Middlesex, 14 miles from London, on the road to St. Alban's. The tower of the church, which stands by the road-side, is entirely mantled with ivy. The windows contain some curious specimens of stained glass. The church-yard, which is quite in unison with it, is a perfect village cemetery. MITCHAM, 7i miles S.S.VV. from London, on the road to Reigate, a village in Surrey, the greater part of which is dirty and unpleasant, and filled with low inhabitants, but with a spacious common, agreeable environs, and some genteel seats around it. The place is of considerable antiquity ; it is called in Domesday-book Michelhaniy which signifies the great dwelling, and in subsequent records, Miccham or Micham : the t appears to have been introduced within the present century. The church is new, having been built about ten years only. It is a large structure in the pointed style, from designs by G. Smith, Esq., and has a handsome appearance, though said not to be in the best taste. Beneath the great window is an inscription (removed from the old church), with a bust of the deceased and his lady, to Sir Ambrose Crowley, alderman of London, (celebrated in the " Tatler" under the name of Sir Humphrey Greenhat), who died in 1722. There are several handsome monuments in this church, especially one by Westmacott to Mrs, Eliz, Tate. In the church-yard is the tomb of Anne Hallam, the distin- guished actress of " Lady Macbeth," died 1740. In the parish register are the two following curious entries : — "Anne, the daughter of George Washford, who had twenty-four fingers and toes, baptized 1690." ** Widow Durant, aged 105, buried 1711." o o 3 426 MOLE. In this parish are some snuff-mills, and some calico- printers' manufactories, with large tracts of ground, called phjsic-gardens, devoted to the cultivation of lavender, wormwood, camomile, liquorice, peppermint, &c. The workhouse, a large building, is on the Common, which is ali skirted bj numerous agreeable residences, and was famous some years since for bull-baiting and pugilism, as it still is, in the summer season, for the manly game of cricket. The ill-fated Sir Walter Raleigh had a house and con- siderable estate at Mitcham, in right of his wife, a daughter of Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, and one of the maids of honour to Queen Elizabeth. Sir Julius Caesar, Master of the Rolls, had also a house here, where, in 1598, he was honoured with a visit from Queen Elizabeth. The parish has some good almshouses, a sunday-school, on an extensive plan, and chapels for Wesleyans and Independents. On the north side of the road to Sutton is Mitdiam Grove, the villa of Sir John W. Lubbock, Bart. MOLE (The), a river in Surrey, which rises in the south part of the county, runs north to Dorking, and passing beneath Box-hill, is generally believed to disap- pear in its vicinity, and to rise again near Leatherhead. Hence Pope calls it, *• The sullen Mole, tliat hides his diving flood." But the fact is, that a tract of soft ground, nearly two miles in lengthy called The Swallows, in very dry seasons, absorbs the waste water in caverns in the sides of the banks ; but not so as to prevent a constant stream from taking its course in an open channel above ground, winding round in the valleys from Dorking to Leatherhead ; though not of that breadth as when it crosses the road at Mickleham ; beyond which, at Burford bridge, its channel, in very hot seasons, is sometimes dry. This river, proceeding from MON MOO. 427 Leaiberhead to Chobham, enters the Thames at East Moulsey, on the south side of Hampton-bridge. MONTREAL, at Riverbead, near Sevenoaks, Kent, 2^1 miles from London, is the seat of the present Lord Amherst (ci-devant Governor-General of India, and Am- bassador to China), but was erected by his predecessor, and named by him in memory of his success in the reduc- tion of Montreal, in Canada. That nobleman built the present elegant mansion on the site of a former residence, which was called Brook's Place. In the grounds is a triumphal column, which records the achievements of the ■ British troops in North America, during the late earl's command there as general ; and is also said to have had another object in view — that of perpetuating the remem- brance of the happy meeting on this spot, of his late lordship and his brother, the admiral, who, after having been engaged on different services, in distant parts of the globe, during the war which preceded that called the American war, and gained honour both to themselves and their country, met and embraced here ; they having entered the park nearly at the same instant, by different avenues. JMOORE HALL, in the parish of Harlow, Essex, agreeably situate within a mile north-eastward of the church of that place, is the elegant seat of Thomas Perry, Esq. It is a modern building-, surrounded by a park and handsome pleasure-grounds. The south-eastern part of the house is ornamented in the Doric style, and a retired walk in the grounds presents some choice views. MOOR PARK, near Rickmansworth, Herts, now^ the seat of Robert Williams, Esq., was ancientlj the property of St. Alban's Abbey, until the contentions between the houses of York and Lancaster. Henry VII. granted it to John de Vere, Earl of Oxford ; but it again reverted to the crown, and was for some time in the possession o Cardinal Wolsey. It had afterwards several owners, among whom was the celebrated Lucy, Countess of Bed - ford. Ill Charles the Second's time it was purchased by 428 MOOR PARK. the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth, whose widow is said to have ordered the heads of all the trees in the park to be cut off, immediately on being informed of the decol- lation of her husband. This tradition is strengthened hy the condition of many of the oaks here, which are decayed from their tops. In 1720, the duchess sold this estate to B. H. Styles, Esq. After his decease it was purchased by the great Lord Anson, whose nephew again sold this estate to Sir Lawrence Dundas, Bart., in 1765. It was next pur- chased, in 1787, by Thomas Bates Rous, Esq., an East- India Director, who dying in February, 1799, his exe- cutors sold it to the late Robert Williams, Esq., an emi- nent banker of London, whose son (M. P. for Dorchester) is the present owner. The mansion is one of the most elegant residences in Hertfordshire. Mr. Styles had the former house (reputed to have been erected by the Duke of Monmouth) entirely new cased, and fronted with Portland stone : he also erected a magnificent portico of the Corinthian order, and two wings for the chapel and offices, connecting them with the centre by Tuscan colonnades. The entire expense, including the improvements in the park, was more than 150,000/. The height of the ground towards the south contracts the view ; but the northern front commands an extensive prospect, the hill which had obstructed the sight having been lowered by Mr. Styles. Further improvements were made by Lord Anson, and others by Sir Lawrence Dundas, who fitted up and orna- mented the Ball-room in a most superb style, at the cost of not less than 10,000/. A reverse of fortune attending the next possessor, Mr. Rous, that gentleman found it expedient to pull dow^n the wings, for the sake of dis- posing of the materials, but the other parts were left untouched. The interior is rich and interesting. The Hall is most splendidly adorned, the door-ways being of choice marble, surmounted with gilt reedings ; and the four large com- MOOR PARK. 429 partments beneath the superb gallery that goes round the upper part, being- embellished with paintings from the story of lo and Argus. The Saloon, or Billiard Room, is a noble well-propor tioned apartment, wainscoted with oak, and decorated with paintings of the Four Seasons, &c. The ceiling, which is from the heathen mythology, was painted by Sir James Thornliiil ; it is copied from one of Guido's, in the Respigliari Palace. The grand Staircase was painted by F. Sleiter, of Venice, with subjects from Ovid. The Ball Room, furnished in a most sumptuous manner, contains the following among other eminent pictures: — The Flight into Egypt, Claude ; Our Saviour, and a St. John, Guide ; Preparing to Uathe, Polemberg ; a Landscape, Morland ; Playing the Guitar, Vandyke ; the Presentation, Bassan ; the Good Samaritan, Guercino ; St. Agnes, Cigoli ; Fruit, Vereldet ; a Landscape, Cuyp ; Archimedes, Sebastiani ; and the Adoration, Carlo Dolci. The ceiling and chimney- piece are extremely superb : the latter, which is of fine marble, (as are those of all the principal apartments) is ornamented with eeveral small female figures, and at the side with two others, as large as life, most beautifully sculptured and polished. In the Dining Room are some fine family portraits, with excellent busts of the late Mr. Perceval, and Mr. Pitt. The Park, which is about five miles in circumference, and finely wooded with oak, elm, and hme, is well stocked with deer. It has a pleasing inequality of surface, and was chiefly brought into its present state by Lord Anson, who expended about 80,000/. in improving it. The pre- sent pleasure-grounds and kitchen-garden were formed by his lordship, who first planted here that excellent fruit, the MooT-yark apricot, from which all the others of that name are derived. The present owner has enlarged the p.ark with about ninety acres, together with the Moor House, now occupied by his mother : he has also increased 430 MORA — Moirr. his estate, by the purchase of different manors to an extent of nearly four thousand acres. MORANT'S COURT HILL, a remarkably fine emi- nence in Kent, rising gradually to a great height Con the road to Sevenoaks, 20 miles from London), and command- ing one of the richest views in that county, if not in England. MORDEN, a retired village in Surrey, 9 miles from Westminster-bridge, bounded east and north by Mitcham and Merton. Here is an extensive snuff-mill. The pre- sent church is of brick, and was erected about 1630. The windows, which are pointed and of stone, appear to have belonged to a former church. In the east window are painted the Ten Commandments, with figures of Moses and Aaron, and some mutilated pieces of Scripture history. Morde7i Park is a villa, with extensive grounds, the seat of G. Ridge, Esq. Here, also, are Morden Lodge, George Hoare, Esq. ; Morden Cottage, — Bloxam, Esq. ; and Morden Hall, formerly the seat of Sir Robert Burnett, but now an academy. The late Abraham Goldsmidt, Esq. had an elegant villa and gardens here, now long since sold in lots and destroyed. MORDEN COLLEGE.— See Blac/cheath. MORTLAKE, a village in Surrey, on the east bank of the Thames, 7 miles W.S.W. from London, The church was first built about 1348, as appears from a record in the Tower ; in 1543 it was rebuilt, that date being on the tower and east wall of the chancel, with the inscription — Vivat R. H. 8th"— Long live King Henry VIII/') The walls are of flint and stone checkered. A few of the windows, with the flat arches of the age of Henry VIII., still remain. The font (which, from his arms being on it, is supposed to have been the gift of Archbishop Bourchier) is octagonal, with some rich Gothic tracery. At Mortlake have been buried several persons of celeb- rity. In the church are interred, Ur. John Dee, distin- MORTLAKE. 431 giiished for his pretensions to magic and astrology, as well as by the patronage of Queen Elizabeth, died in 1608, aged 81 ; Sir John Barnard, whose statue adorns the Royal Exchange, died 1764 ; and Sir Brook Watson, died 1807, In the churchyard is the tomb of the celebrated Partridge, the astrologer and almanac -maker, who was bred a shoemaker, and became sworn physician to Charles II., William III., and Queen Mary ; died 1715. Here is, also, a monument to Alderman Barber, who being the natural son of a barber in the metropolis, was bred a printer, by which profession, and by participation in the South-Sea scheme, he acquired considerable riches. In 1733 he served the office of lord-mayor. The monument to Butler, in Westminster Abbey, was erected by Mr. Barber, on which occasion Pope is said to have written the following severe lines, which he proposed should be inscribed on the vacant scroll under Shakspeare's bust : — Thus Britain lov'd me, and preserv'd my fame Pure from a Barber's or a Benson's name. On a neat marble tablet are some pleasing lines in memory of the first Viscountess Sidmouth, who died in 1811. Great quantities of asparagus are raised in this parish for "the London market. The manor, now included in Wimbledon, once belonged to the see of Canterbury, and during that time, the manor-house was at Mortlake, and was occasionally the residence of the archbishops, most of whom have dated some of their public acts from that place. Archbishop Anselm celebrated the feast of Whit« suntide there in the year 1099. Archbishop Corboyle wes confined to his house at Mortlake by sickness, A.D. 1136. Archbishop Peckham died there, A.D. 1292 ; and Arch- bishop Reynolds in 1327. Archbishop Meopham, having fallen under the displeasure of the Pope, was excommu- nicated by him, and retiring to Mortlake, spent many days there in solitude. Archbishop Warham appears to have 432 MOU — MUS. been the last prelate who resided there. His successor, Archbishop Cranmer, alienated the manor of Mortlake to Henry VIH., in exchange for other lands. The house was probably pulled down soon afterwards. In Mortlake is an old house, reported to have been the residence of Oliver Cromwell, but more probably of one of his adherents. Pack, Tichbourn, or Ireton. Within the last century, this house was inhabited by the amiable and benevolent Edward Colston, the great benefactor of the City of Bristol. A great portion of this parish is inclosed within Richmond Park, It contains a few almshouses and a charity school. MOULSEY (East and West), two small villages in Surrey, situate about li mile from Kingston, and both named from the river Mole, which runs between them. In 1750, an act of parliament was passed, enabling James Clarke, Esq., tl^en lord of the manor of East Moulsey, to erect a bridge over the Thames to Hampton Court, and to receive tolls from passengers. This bridge, which is of wood, was opened in 1753, and is still private pro- perty. Moulsey has some neat and attractive seats in its vicinity, most of which are noti, ed by us under other heads. The Hurat, which is a fine common, bordering on the Thames, has been the scene of many a pugilistic contest. Races are now holden annually here, and the noblemen and gentlemen forming the Clarence Club meet here for cricket-matches and practise. MUSWELL HILL, an exceedingly rural and pleasant village in Middlesex, 5*- miles N. from London, in the parish of Hornsey, situate on an eminence commanding varied and extensive prospects, and agreeably studded with detached villas, and other genteel residences. The place takes its name from a famous well on the hill, where, formerly, the fraternity of St. John of Jerusalem, in Clerkenwell, had their dairy, with a large farm adjacent, and a chapel for nuns. The water of this spring was then. deemed a specific for scrofulous and cutaneous diseases. KAS-— NAV. 433 NASING, a parish and respectable village in Essex ; the latter being 4 miles from Epping and 17 from London, between Waltham Abbey and Roydon. The church is a spacious structure, of considerable antiquity : behind one of the columns, which divide the body from the aisle, is a small door, leading by narrow winding stairs to an aper- ture in front of the chancel, sufficiently large to exhibit a person nearly at full-length to the congregation. This is supposed to have been designed either as a place of penance, or of general thanksgiving ; most probably the latter, for, on a wooden tablet beneath the aperture is in- scribed the 116th Psalm — " I will pay my vows unto the Lord, in the sight of all his people,'' &c. The parsonage- bouse here is moated round. Near the village, and on the common, are many genteel villas. NAVESTOCK, a village in Essex, 7 miles from Rom- ford, and 16 from London. The church, which consists of a nave and south aisle, with a shingled spire, has a north door of Saxon w^orkmanship. On the common, near the village, were the remains of an ancient fortification or encampment, with an embankment of considerable height near it, and a deep fosse on each side. There was for- merly a mansion at this village, called Navestock Hall, on an estate recorded to have been given to the cathedral of St. Paul, by King Edgar, in the ninth century. At the Reformation, this estate was alienated from the church, and, in 1553, Queen Mary granted the manor to Sir Edward Waldegrave, Knt. ; and, in his descendants, the Earls of Waldegrave, it has continued to the present time, a period of nearly 300 years. Sir Edward Waldegrave was a principal officer in the household of Princess Mary, subsequently Queen of England, and therefore was deemed a proper person, with Sir Robert Rochester, his uncle, and Sir Francis Enolefield, to be employed by King- Edward VI . and his council, in forbidding mass in the house of the said lady, which at that time was Copt Hall near Epping ■ and these gentlemen, for their failure 1' p 434 KAVESTOCK. herein, incurred the king's displeasure to such a degree, that he committed tbem first to the Fieet Prison, and thence to the Tower ; but upon the king's death, on July 6, 1553, they rose to the highest favour with Queen Mary, more especially Sir Edward Waldegrave, whom she admitted into her privy council, constituting him master of the great wardrobe, with a grant of several manors. On the day following her coronation, he w^as made a knight of the carpet ; and, in 1554, was appointed one of the commissioners for the trial of Sir Nicholas Throck- morton. He represented Somersetshire wuth Sir John Sydenham, Knt., in 1554, and in the parliament which assembled, January 20, 1557, and continued its sittings until the demise of the queen, was one of the members for Essex ; in which last year, he was appointed Chan- cellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, and Lieutenant of Waltham, or Epping Forest. These were his rewards for fidelity to Queen Mary ; but, upon the accession of Eli- zabeth, he was divested of all his employments, and com- mitted, as before, a prisoner to the Tower, where he re- mained up to the time of his death, on the 1st of September, 1561, aged 44 years. His remains were interred within Borley Church, as were also those of his wife, with their third daughter, Magdalene, married to Sir John Southcote, Knt., of Witham, Essex. Navestock Hall was erected b}^ James, the first Baron Waldegrave, a title conferred by J?*mes XL ; and, after being for many j^ears the constant residence of his posterity, was pulled down by the late countess, and the materials sold by public auction, in the month of March, 1811. In the chancel of the church are several monuments to the Waldegrave family : one, a large mural monument, to the first two earls, with a long inscription by her late Royal Highness, Maria Duchess of Gloucester, and Countess- Dowager Waldegrave, the relict of the second earl, -whose loss she deplores, and whose virtues she eulogizes, in a strain of most affecting eloquence ; a second monument, NETHER HALL. 435 executed by Bacon, jun., represents a mother weeping- over the canteen of her son, shipwrecked on the shore ; at the top, a boy placed on a rock, and gradually unfurl- ing the British standard ; and underneath, In memory of the Hon. Edward Waldegrave, son of George, fourth Earl of Waldegrave a third inscription, near the east window of the south aisle, is dedicated " to the memory of William Lord lladstock, who died August 20, 1825, aged 72.'' On a brass plate on the ground : Richard Makyns, sworne ordinary groorae in the chaundrie to king Edward the Vlth, died April 5, 1603." On the north wall : *' Sacred to the memory of Eliza- beth, the second wife of James, the fifth Earl of Cardigan, daughter of John, the third Earl of Waldegrave, lady of the bed-chamber to her Majesty Queen Charlotte, who died June 23, 1823, aged 65 years." In the north wall of the chancel is a mural tablet, to the memory of Henrietta, Lady Waldegrave, the wife of the first Baron Waldegrave, and the daughter of James II., by Arabella Churchill, the sister of the great Duke of Marl- borough. In the chancel is a mural monument, with a half-length figure of the deceased, to the memory of John Green, Esq., Barrister-at-law ; and, on a flat stone, an inscription to that of John Green, Recorder of London, as well as of his son, John Green, Sergeant-at-law. This family was possessed of a large portion of the parish, which was sold by Maurice Green, Mus. D., to the Waldegraves. In the Hall, near the church, are several portraits of the Waldegraves, which were removed from the mansion when it was taken down. Dudbroo/ce, a small mansion in the parish, is now the occasional residence of John James Waldegrave, Esq. NETHER HALL, in the parish of Roydon, Essex, but situate not far from Harlow, near the confluence of the rivers Lea and Stort, originally belonged to Waltham Abbey, but was afterwards, from the reign of Edward IV. 436 NI-ITHER HALL. to A.D 1635, the seat of the Colt family; one of whose descendants. Sir Henry Colt, was a favourite companion of Henry VIII., and the court wit of the day. This gen- tleman having obtained information that the monks of Waltham were in the habit of visiting Cheshunt nunnery by night, he caused them to be watched, and on one occa- sion pitched a buck-stall in a meadow, below the ascent of a bridge which they were compelled to pass, and inclosed several of them within it. The next morning he pre- sented them to the King, who, laughing heartily, re- marked, that he had often seen sweeter, but never fatter venison." The ancient mansion, having long been converted into a farm-house, was pulled down in the year 1773 : but the noble gateway, consisting of several square and octangular towers, was left standing. It is con- structed of brick, and consists of two floors, with a half hexagon tower on each side of the entrance. Each floor is occupied by only one room, measuring 27 feet by 23|, and lighted by large windows ; the ceiling of the upper story has fallen in : that of the first story is sustained on wainscot arches, resting in front on three blank shields, and a truss composed of a radiant rose ; and at the back, are four trusses, the first and third of which represent griffins ; the second and fourth a bear and ragged staff : the most western of the shields is supported by two horses ; the second held by a spread eagle, supported by a lion and unicorn ; and the third rests on a lioness and a bull ducally crowned. Near the chimney is a colt's head, in an orna- ment of the carving. This story has been wainscoted to the height of about eight feet : above the wainscot on the plaster are various figures in the compartments, indiffer- ently painted, to represent the most eminent personages of sacred, profane, and fabulous history. On the summit of the gateway are some remains of two curiously twisted chimneys; and beneath the windows, above the entrance, is a machiocolation, and a trefoil ornament, with shields and fleurs-de-lis. These venerable remains of antiquity ^'ET — XEW. 437 are in a state of rapid decay, and Lave lately become much altered in appearance ; but, in conjunction with part of the ancient moat and the contiguous foliage, they still form a very picturesque scene. NET TES WELL, or Nettles well, a parish in Essex, composed of a few small houses, a manor-house, and parsonage ; distant 2 miles from Harlow, and 21 from London. The church is small ; in one of the walls is some curious ornamental brick-w^ork. Here is a free- school for 10 boys and 10 girls, established by William jNlarten, Esq., to whose memory, and that of his wife, there are monuments in the church. NEW-CROSS, Sk miles S.S.E. from London, is the first village in Kent, on the road from London. Its turn- pike-gate forms the boundary-line of the counties of Kent and Surrey. The Surrey Canal crosses the road here, to which are seven locks within the short distance of a quarter of a mile. Here are the handsome residences of Robert Lucas, Esq., William Holcombe, Esq., and Tim, Stanfield, Esq. At about half a mile distant, on the left of the road leading hence to Peckham, is Plow-Garlic Hill, on the summit of which is the second station of the Deal telegraph. NEWTNGTON BUTTS, a village in Surrey, extend- ing from the end of Southwark to Kennington-common, is said to have received the name of Butts from the exer- cise of shooting at hittts, anciently much practised here, and in other towns of England, to fit men to serve as archers. In this \illage are the almshouses of the Fish- mongers' Company ; the most ancient of wdiich is St. Peter's Hospital, erected in 1618, for 22 of their poor members : to the south of this hospital is another, founded in 1719, by Mr. Halbert, whose statue stands upon a pedestal ; this is for 20 poor men and women. Here, likewise, are some almshouses of the Drapers' Company. The church was rebuilt, on a larger scale, but on the same inconvenient spot by the side of the great road, in 1793, p p 3 438 KEWINGTON. The monuments in the church worthy of notice are to Mrs. Horsley, wife of Bishop Horsley, who died April 2, 1805, aged 54; A. Fothergill, M.D. F.R.S. died 1813 ; and Charles de Guiffardiere, A.M., rector, who died January 1, 1810, aged 90. On the floor of the old church was, among others, the grave-stone of George Powell, who, is said, by the editor of " Aubrey," to have been styled King of the Gypseys, and to have died in 1701, in very flourishing circum- stances. The church-yard was enlarged by an act of parliament, 29th Geo. II. The most conspicuous monument in th& church-yard is that to William Allen, a young man who was killed by the firing of the soldiers, in the riots which took place in 1768, on the occasion of the confinement of John Wilkes in the King's Bench Prison, The eminent Dr. Samuel Horsley was presented to this rectory in 1759. Two new churches have been built in this parish ; one called St. Peter's, situate on the east of the Walworth- road, erected from designs by Soane ; the other called Trinity Church, situate on the south side of Trinity- square, Blackman-street, from designs by Bedford. Bot structures are handsome ; the former has some elegant stained glass. In 1739, according to Maitland, there were but 751 houses in this parish, and only one person who kept a coach. There are now upwards of 6,000 houses, and a population of 40,000 persons ! NEWINGTON, or Stoke Newington, a village in Middlesex, 2^ miles north of London, in the road to Edmonton, Behind the church is a pleasant grove of tall trees, known by the name of Queen Elizabeth's Walk, In the manor-house, then the seat of Sir Thomas Abney, the excellent Dr. Watts was treated, for 36 years, with all the kindness that friendship and respect could dictate. Mrs. Abney, the daughter of Sir Thomas, ordered, by her NEW — NEW. 439 will, that this estate should be sold, and the produce dis- tributed in charitable donations. It was sold to the late Jonathan Eade, Esq., and the produce, amounting- to several thousand pounds, was distributed accordingly. In the church -yard is a monument, recording the deaths of the late Alderman Picket, his son, and daughter. His daughter fell a victim to filial affection : in endeavouring to cover her father's face with a handkerchief, whilst asleep in his dining-room, her dress caught fire, and she was so much burnt as to occasion her death. His son. Lieutenant Picket, was slain on board the Triton East Indiaman, in Tellicherry Roads, by a body of French, who made their escape from prison, and seized the ship. The memory of Alderman Picket will be ever remembered with respect ■ by his exertions the improvements near Temple Par were effected, which bear his name. NEWINGTON GREEN, a village in Middlesex, between Islington and Stoke Newington, consisting of a handsome square, (partly in the parish of Islington, and partly in that of Newington,) principally inhabited by merchants and gentlemen. On one side of it is a meeting- house, of which the late celebrated Dr. Price was minister for many years. An old house in the centre of the south side, (now converted into two, one of which is a boarding- school,) is said to have been the residence of Henry VIII. On the ceiling of the principal room of this house are the arms and initials of James I. A large old building at the north-west corner of the Green, called Bishop's Place, now pulled down, is thought to have been the residence of Henry Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, when he wrote the memorable letter, disclaiming any matrimonial contract between himself and Queen Anne Boleyne, and which was dated "at Newington Greene," the 13th of May^ 28th Henry VIII. Near this place are Paradise Villa, B. Massey, Esq., and Paradise House, Rev. — Clissold. NEW LODGE, near Berkhamsted, Herts, is the seat of J. Moore, Esq. 440 XEW — NOX. NEW LODGE, beyond the Obelisk at the other side of Earnet, Middlesex, is the elegant villa of Mrs. Baronneau. NEW RIVER, a fine artificial stream, brought from Xlerts, for the supply of the metropolis with water. This river has its principal source at the village of Amwell, Herts, 20 miles from London. A number of springs ate here collected into a wide open basin of considerable depth, on the side of which is placed a large stone, with inscriptions on each side, implying that from Chad well spring the river flows forty miles, and that the stream was opened in 1608. The original supply of water having been found inadequate to its vast consumption, the mill stream of the river Lea was resorted to ; and, after various disputes and litigations between its proprietors and the New River Company, the mill at length became the company's property, and they have now the unrestrained use of the water, so that the river Lea may be considered one of its sources. In order to preserve a level, the new river takes a winding course ; its general direction being parallel to the Lea, at the distance of a mile or two from it, on higher ground, passing Ware, Hoddesdon, Amwell, Broxbourne, and Cheshunt ; at W^altham Cross it enters Middlesex ; and making a circuit towards Enfield chase returns to the town of Enfield, and thence with two very devious bends to Hornsey ; winding among the gentle elevations of this pleasant valley, it approaches the upper end of Stoke Newington, and passing onward beneath Highbury to the east side of Islington, ingulfs itself under the road, in a subterranean channel of three hundred yards. At this part of the river is a brick building, containing several mains, by which the water is conveyed to the eastern parts of London ; and a little spring above, which contributes its store to the genuine stock, is much used by the inhabitants of Islington. The river again rises in Colebrook-row, and still coasting the southern side of Islington, reaches its termination at the New River Head, Sadler's Wells. NONSUCH, was the name given to a palace near NORBITON. 441 Cheam, in Surry, commenced by Henry VIII., and com- pleted by Henry, Earl of Arundel, for the love and honour he bare to his olde maister." The fate of this edifice, which received its name on account of its unparal- leled magnificence, affords a striking instance of the instability of human splendour. Camden describes it as " a monument of art," and adds that you would think the whole science of architecture exhausted on it." Hentzer, a German, speaks of it in similar terms of high eulogium, and the description given of it in the survey taken by order of parliament, in 1650, confirms the report of its extraordinary magnificence. The materials of the house were then valued at ^7,020. To it were attached two parks, com- prehending about 1600 acres. The larger of these was afterwards called Worcester-park, though from what cir- cumstance is not known. In little more than a century after its erection, the splendid edifice was levelled with the ground, and not a vestige now marks the spot on which it stood. After the decease of the Earl of Arundel, his son-in-law. Lord Lumlej'-, conveyed this estate to the crown in 1591. Nonsuch afterwards became a favorite residence of Queen Elizabeth, and it was here that the Earl of Essex first ex- perienced her displeasure. It was settled upon Anne, Queen of James I. j and in the following reign, on Queen Henrietta Maria. In 1670-1, Charles II. granted Non- such, with both the parks, to George Viscount Grandison,. and Henry Brouncker, Esq. in trust for the Viscount's niece Barbara, whom the king created Duchess of Cleve- land and Baroness of Nonsuch. This lady pulled down both the palace and Worcester-house, and turned the parks into farms. At her death in 1709, the Duchess left them both to her grandson, the Duke of Grafton, whose successor sold them in 1731. NORBITON is a hamlet to Kingston, Surrey, on the London-road. hJere is Norbiton-place, a tasteful and con- venient structure, with grounds very judiciously disposed • 442 NOR NOR. until lately the property, in right of his wife, of C. N. Palmer, Esq., late M.P. for the county. This seat is at present unoccupied. Opposite Norbiton-place is Norhiton Hall, a modern residence, the property of General G. Johnstone. NORBURY FARM, on the Croydon-road, near Croy- don, a handsome mansion with extensive pleasure-grounds tastefully planted, and contiguous farm lands, the seat of — Sanderson, Esq. The house was built by Mr. Nash, the architect. NORBURY PARK, now the seat of H. P. Sper- ling, Esq. is an ancient manorial estate, in the parish of Mickleham, Surrey, comprising u])wards of 500 acres ; 200 of which form the park and pleasure grounds, 120 the woods and plantations, and the remainder arable and meadow land, with a neat farm ornte. This estate was for many years possessed by the ancient family of Stydolfe, a name considerable in this and the adjoining- counties ever since the Conquest. In an old register, from 1549 to 1680, is a curious licence granted in 1632, by Moses Wall, parson of Mickleham, upon Ihe certificate of Lawrence Wright, M.D., to the worshipful Lady Frances Stydolfe to eat fiesh during Lent, and on all fish days, on account of her ill health, she paying all dues for this in- dulgence. The next year the whole family were taken ill, and had the same licence on the same condition. This ancient family declining in a female, the Tryons came into possession, from them it passed to Mr. Chapman, of whom it was purchased, with all its manorial appendages, by — Lock, Esq. The old mansion-house stood on the lower side of the park, near the road ; but being decayed and ruinous, Mr. Lock pulled down the greater part of it, reserving the north end for his farm, and erected upon a well-chosen eminence, on the opposite side of the park, one of the most elegant and beautiful seats in the county. From the church-yard, the rising slopes of Norbury Park, beauti- fully variegated with stately trees, appear to the KOR — NOR. 443 greatest advantage. The park itself is extensive and well diversified ; it is asserted that, when Sir Richard Stydolfe was owner, it was famed for containing 40,000 walnut-trees, and it still possesses a vast number. The extent and richness of prospect from the house, fill the beholder with admiration. To the north, a large expanse of country displays a varied and magnificent scene. The south presents, a picture equally striking, with elegant villas and plantations on each side. The hanging- hills, adorned with stately beech on the right, contrast with the fine downs covered with evergreens, and the chalky crags of Box Hill, on the left. Beneath is a fertile vale, through which the river Mole silently pursues its course, and then sinks imperceptibly from the sight. The sides of the principal rooms are painted by Barrett, with views of the romantic mountains and lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland, which are so managed as to have the appearance of being a continuation of the surrounding scener}^. The whole is admirably connected with a view from the windows, and adapted to convey a classical idea of a perfect landscape. This estate was sold by auction to F. Robinson, Esq. in 1819, for ^19,600, exclusive of the value of the timber , it has since been purchased by the present proprietor. Many Roman coins have been found here. NORTHEND, a hamlet of the parish of Fulham, Mid- dlesex, J of a mile S.S.E. from Hammersmith. Here is a house built by the late celebrated comedian, Samuel Foote, and for many years his favourite residence. 7\t a little distance from Foote's villa, on the opposite side of the road, is a dwelling, wherein the famous engraver, Eartolozzi, resided ; and on the eastern side of the road, contiguous to Hammersmith, is still remaining the house in which Richardson wrote the greater part of Sir Charles Gran- dison," and much of *• Clarissa Harlow." NORTHFLEET, a village in Kent, 21 miles S. from London, situate on the Thames, within a mile of Graves- end, is called in Domesday- Book, Norjiicet ; and in 444 NORTIIFLEKT. the Textiis RofFensis, Northfleota ; the latter part of the name being derived from its situation close to the Jieet^ or arm of the Thames, which flows from hence towards South- fleet ; and the former from its northern position as regards Southfleet. It is divided into two districts, upper and lower Northfleet ; or Northfleet on the hill, and North- fleet on the shore. This place was formerly of more con- sequence than at present, having had a weekly market and three fairs annually. The parish is very extensive, and its population upwards of 2000 ; the greater number of the inhabitants being employed in agriculture, or in the chalk- works, which here, as at Greenhithe, are very considerable. Northfleet has for some years past been considered a pleasant summer retreat, with the reputation of being to Gravesend what Broadstairs is to Margate ; and to the visitor desirous of enjoying rural scenery, and the invalid in search of health, it ofl*ers many temptations. Respect- able families and well-built roomy houses, characterize the immediate neighbourhood, whilst the country, south and west, furnishes attractive and varied scenery. The church is a large brick building, having three aisles and a chancel, and has been added to at various periods, as may be traced from its different styles of architecture. Many monuments of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries are still to be seen in the chancel, and among them, one to the memory of the wife of Richard Davy, Esq., keeper of the jewels of Henry VI and a fine alabaster memorial of Edward Browne, M.D., who resided at Ingress, and was physician to Charles IT. Between Northfleet and Gravesend, is an excellent bath- ing establishment, having warm, cold, vapour, and showier salt-water baths, and machines which may be used at all times of the tide. Attached to the bathing-house is a delightful pleasure-ground, luxuriant with trees, shrubs, and iierbage, overhanging the river. Here the visitormay enjoy a prospect of the most animated and interesting kind ; in fact, nothing can be more complete than the accommoda- tions of these baths. NORWOOD. 445 NORWOOD, a hamlet in Surrey, 5 miles from London, and 2 miles south from Camberwell, in the several parishes of Croydon, Streatham, Lambeth, and Camberwell. It is a straggling place, scattered round a large wide common ; but standing on a considerable eminence, it has the com- mand of extensive and agreeable views, and there are still ?ifew agreeable w^alks left here, out of the dusty high road inclosed right and left, so prevalent for several miles on the Surrey side of the bridges. This place and its contiguous woods, were, for many years, famous for gyp^eys, who have long since been dispersed by the exertions of the magistrates, though not so completely that any party of visitors can even now escape the importunities of one or more of them. Regular encampments of this singular people used anciently to be formed on the common. One of the district churches of Lambeth, called St. Luke's, Norwood, w^as built here, on a .high and commanding situation, on the ascent of the hill leading to the village. It is principally of brick, and in plan a parallelogram ; the principal front is north instead of w^est, and has a portico of six Corinthian columns. The steeple is in two stories : the first square, ornamented with Doric columns ; the upper octagonal, crowned with a pyramidal roof and cross. The south and north fronts have each a single range of windows, with arched heads. The interior is exceedingly plain; galleries cross the north and south ends, and in the northern one is the organ. The church, which accommodates up- wards of 1,400 persons, was begun in 182^, and consecrated July 1825. The architect was F. Bedford, Esq. A house of industry was erected here in 1812, at an expense of nearly ^4,000 ; in it upwards of 250 children are taught to read, knit, spin, &c. Near this building is a chapel, erected in 1817, for Independents, and attached to it is a school-house, in which more than 250 children are educated on the British and Foreign school system. Here is also a district-school on Bell's plan, built in 1824. Norwood is studded with villa residences, large and 446 NOR — Nun. small, and of various degrees of elegance, and Las several good houses of entertainment for visitors, aristocratic or plebeian. There is but little in the whole hamlet to interest either the antiquary or the tourist ; but the air is very salubrious, and the prospect around embraces the metropolis, Hampstead, Highgate, Greenwich, Chelsea, &c. the place has therefore always been famous for holiday excursions and pleasure-parties, and the resort hither has of late years been much increased in consequence of the discovery of the mineral waters, called the Beulah Spa ; which rise at a place called Eeulah, or Beaulieuy in the vicinity of the village, from the brow of a hill there. The spa is embosomed in a wood of oaks ; and, to attract visitors, grounds around it, to the extent of twenty acres, have been laid out by the proprietor at a heavy expense, from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton, with terraces, com- manding extensive views, plantations, walks, and rides, &c. A very elegant tavern has lately been erected here. The spa was first opened in 1831. NORWOOD, a township and chapelry in the parish of Hayes, Middlesex, 11 miles west from London, between the roads to Uxbridge and Hounslow. In Southall, another hamlet, adjoining this, and belonging to the same parish, is a celebrated weekly cattle-market, held every Monday. Francis Meyrick, Esq., the ancient possessor of a manor here, obtained a charter for holding a weekly market, and two annual fairs. A lease of this charter was purchased in 1 805, by Mr. William Welch, who immediately afterwards constructed a market-place, admirably adapted for the accommodation of cattle-dealers. Thus, and by other judicious measures, a cattle-market has been estab- lished at Southall, inferior to that of Smithfield only. Close to Norwood, but in Keston parish, are a manufac- tory of oil of vitriol, and a government depot for gun- powder. NURSTED, a rural village in Kent, four miles from Gravesend, and about 24 direct from London, has some OAKS — OAT. 447 remains of an ancient court-Louse, and its clmrCli is an ancient gothic structure, with a tower, and forms a pictu- resque object from many points of the surrounding country. OAKS, The, a villa of the Earl of Derby, (recently de- ceased) on Banstead Downs, was built hy a society of gentlemen, called the Hunters' Club, as a place of festivity in t^.e hunting season. Sir Thomas Goslin afterwards occupied it for a short time. General Burgoyne then purchased the lease, and built a dining-room, 42 feet by 21, with an arched roof, elegantly finished, and supported by 28 small cased pillars of fine workmanship. The dining-table was of plain deal-boards, in conformity to the style of a hunting- seat. The drawing-room is an octagon, ornamented with a variety of pictures. It commands a prospect of Norwood, Shooter's Iliil, many churches in London and its environs, Hampstead, Highgate, &c. Lord Derby having acquired a fee simple in the estate, added, at the west end, a large brick building, with four towers at each corner ; and there is a similar erection at the east end, which renders the structure uniform. The grounds and plantations are about two miles in circumference. In the pleasure grounds are a number of ancient beeches. In one tree in particular, it is said there is a spring ; because it always contains water, although the well at the house is SOO feet deep. Lord Derby, who was remarkable for his hospitality to the gentlemen-hunters, and had a pack of stag-hounds on his establishment, could accommodate his guests with upwards of 50 bed-chambers. Here vvas given, in honour of the earl's first marriage, the celebrated fete champetre which furnished General Burgoyne with the subject of the pleasant musical entertainment called *'The Maid of the Oaks." His lordship's second lady was the amiable actress. Miss Farren. OATLANDS, an elegant mansion, with a remarkably fine approach to it from Walton, Surrey, through a beauti- ful park, skirted by the Thames, formerly the seat of His Royal Highness the Duke of York, and more recently of Hughes Ball, Esq. 448 OATLANDS. When Henry Vill, had possession of Hampton Court, and was making the chase tliere, he contrived to obtain Oatlands in exchange for the manor of Tunbridge, Queen Elizabeth was here the 14th of August, 1590, and 27th of August, 1602, and is said to have shot with a cross-bow in the paddock, Ann, consort of James 1 here built a room, called the silk-worm room. Charles I, in the second year of his reign, settled this place on his queen, Henrietta Maria, for her life. His youngest son, called in his cradle Henry of Oatlands, was born in 1640, in a house here, which Mr. Fuller says was pulled down when he wrote. This mansion stood in a low situation, near the present kitchen-garden, and was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell, except some apartments inhabited by one of the earls of Dorset and the silk-worm room above mentioned, then called the Gardener's chamber. The park was also thrown open : many foundations of buildings are scill to be traced on the spot where the house stood. At the Restora- tion, the queen-mother was again put in possession of Oatlands , in its dilapidated state, and after her death, Charles II granted a lease of it to the Earl of St. Alban's. It came next into the possession of Sir Edward Herbert, chief justice under James II, whose interest in this estate being forfeited by his attainder, William III. granted the fee-simple to his brother Arthur, an admiral, who for his services was created earl of Torrington. The earl dying without issue in 1716, devised his possessions to Henry, Earl of Lincoln. George, son and heir to this nobleman, formed the gardens about the year 1725, and probably built the house, which at his death devolved to his brother Henry. The latter married Catherine, daughter to Henry Pelham, Esq., and niece to the Duke of Newcastle, who, having no child, was succeeded by his nephew in 1768, who fixed his residence at Oatlands, enlarged the park, and made considerable plantations. At the foot of the terrace is a large piece of water, formed by Sjirings. The Thames OATLANDS. 449 is not seen at this point, and Walton bridge, which ter- minates the view, seeming to be placed across this water, causes it to appear like a part of the river. Between the house and the kitchen-garden is another piece of water, by the side of which the late Duke of Newcastle con- structed a groito, divided into three apartments. The outside is of white stone, full of perforations, perhaps the abode of fish, or some species of marine animal, but whence brought is not known. The sides and roofs are encrusted with shells and petrifactions. In one of the rooms is a bath, supplied bj a small spring dripping through the rock ; at the end of it is a copy of the Venus de Medicis, as if going to bathe. In one of the windows are the arms of Cecil, with many quarterings, encircled by the garter and motto — over this is another encrusted room. On the side of the park next Walton, is an arch, probably brought from the old house, on which is this inscription : — *' Henricus, Comes de Lincoln, hunc arcum opus Ignatii Jones, vetustate corruptum, restituit." The owners of Oatlands had long held the manors and parks of Byfleet and Weybridge by leases from the crown. The late Duke of York purchased from the Duke of New- castle the estate of Oatlands, then held under the crown- leases. He also bought the late General Cornwallis's house and estate in Byfleet, Mr. Paine's house, called Brooklands, and other lands in this parish, and in Byfleet and Walton. In 18C0, the duke obtained, under the enclosure act, about 1,000 other acres of wasteland, so that the domain com- prises about 3,000 acres. The mansion was burnt down while the duke was in Flanders, in 1793. The fire broke out in the night, and the duchess and servants escaped with some difficulty. A new house was erected, of which Holland was the architect ; and in 1804, an act was passed to enable his Majesty to grant to the Duke of York the inheritance of so much of this- domain as was held of the crown. A few years since the whole of this extensive property was sold in one lot to Hughes Ball, esq. Q Q 3 450 OCKHAM. The late amiable Duchess of York passed much of her time at Oatlands, in agreeable retirement ; occupying her- self, with much anxiety, in protecting a number of female children, the offspring of the neighbouring poor, whom she caused to be clothed, educated, and placed out in life at her private expense. Her Royal Highness was remarkably attached to dogs, seldom travelled without half-a-dozen in her carriage, and carried this addiction to so censurable an excess, that as they died off, she had them buried, in a part of the grounds appropriated to that purpose, and caused wooden tablets, of tomb-stone shape, inscribed with pathetic epitaphs, to be erected to their memory, which may still be seen — a folly, to speak mildly, which her benevolent character can alone excuse. Oatlands may be visited with little difficulty, and for a trifling gratuity. The walk to it from Walton is delightful. OCKHAM, a parish in Surry, 24 miles from London, and 6 from Guildford. The church is a rectory, in the patronage of Lord King. The interior is handsomely fitted up. On the floor, near the pulpit, are full length effigies of a man in armour and a woman in flowing robes, supposed to be of J. Weston, and Margaret his wife, who died about 1480. In the north aisle is an elegant monument to Peter Lord King, baron Ockam. Lord chancellor in 1725, with the effigies of himself and his lady in white marble, with suitable inscriptions. In the church-yard is a grave-stone to John Spong, a carpenter, with the following punning epitaph : — ** Who many a sturdy oak hath laid along, Fell'd by Death's surer hatchet, here lies Spong : Fosts oft he made, yet ne'er a place could get. And liv'd by railing, though he was no wit ; Old saws he had, although no antiquarian, And stiles corrected, yet was no grammarian. Ockham Park was purchased by Lord Chancellor King, in 1711, of the Sutton family, and is the seat of the present Lord King, recently married, it will be remembered, to the Hon. Ada Byron. The house, which is nearly opposite the church, has lately been renovated, and the grounds modernised and improved. OKE — ONG. 451 William de Ockham, a celebrated philosopher and polemi- cal writer of the fourteenth century, was born at this place. OKENDEN, or OCKENDON, North and South, two parishes in Essex, so distinguished from each other in reference to their situation. The village of South Oken- den, which is 19 miles from London, and 8 from Romford, is neat and respectable. The church appears to be of considerable antiquity ; the chief doorway has a curiously wrought Norman arch (See Groves). North Okenden, J 8 miles from London, contains few houses. JVortli Oken- den Hall, a large and old building, partly modernised, is the property of Sir Charles Hulse, Bart. About half a mile from the church is an ancient seat called Stuhders, belonging to William Russell, Esq. See Bell House. OLD FORD, Middlesex, 2J miles E. N.E. from London, in the parish of Stratford-le-Bow, and on the river Lea, over which, in this place, passed a Roman military way. Here is an ancient gatewaj^ still entire, supposed to be the remains of a royal palace, vulgarly called king John's palace. Here, in ancient times, was a ford over the river Lea, which proved so dangerous to passengers in great inundations, that many lives were lost: hence Maud, queen of Henry I, had the road turned, and built Stratford Bridge. Near Old Ford are the East London Water Wor/cs, and some extensive dye-houses. ONGAR, CHEPING, generally called Chipping Ongam, a market tow^n in Essex, the Saxon prefix of Cheping to the name of which, denotes that the market is of remote antiquity. The town is situate 7^ miles E.N. E. of Epping, and 21 miles from London, on rising ground, with pleasant prospects, and consists chiefly of one long street, one end of which is entered by a bridge over the river Roden. The market, which was formerly but ill supplied, has been recently much improved, and the market-house repaired. The church is a small neat struc- ture, having many Roman bricks worked into its walls, with singularly small windows. It contains many epitaphs and inscriptions ; one to Jane, daughter of the Lord 452 HONG — ORP. Oliver Cromwell, of Ilinchingbrook, Huntingdonshire, Knight of the Bath, who deposited her mortal part in this dust, in the year of Christ 1637 another to the memory of that truly noble and religious gentleman, Horatio Pal- lavicine, Esq., who died 1648, aged 36." The town has a free-school and some other charities. There was anciently a castle at Cheping Ongar, built by Richard de Lucy, lord of Disce, in Norfolk, formerly lord of this manor. It was situate on the summit of a very high artificial hill, surrounded by a deep and broad moat which, with other works, formed the fortification, large remains of which are still to be seen. The moat is gener- ally filled with water, and the sides of the mount planted with trees and shrubs, tlirough which a steep winding walk leads to the summit, where the chief part of the building stood : these becoming ruinous, were pulled down by William Morice, Esq., in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and on the site he erected a brick building, three stories high. In 1744, Edward Alexander, Esq. was the proprietor of the estate ; he pulled down this erection, and built a handsome summer-house in its stead, rising to a considerable height, with an elegant apartment and a dome : this is now a picturesque ruin, from which, or the eminence on which it stands, an open country, widely extended, presents most interesting views. ONGAR HIGH, a parish and small village in Essex, about 2 miles west of Cheping Ongar. The church has an arched roof with paintings, and a w^ooden spire rising out of a square tower. It is entered on the south by a handsome semi-circular arch of Norman architecture, under a wooden porch, dated 1640. There is a very elegant altar-piece. The chief inscriptions are to the family of Stane, who have long possessed estates here. Forest Hall, about three quarters of a mile north of the church, is the property of the Rev. John Branston Stane. See Bla/ce Hall, Kelvedon, and Greensted, ORPINGTON, a village in Kent, on the river Cray, 4 miles S. E. from Bromley, and 13 from London. OSTERLEY PARK. 453 Henry VIII. granted the manor to Sir Percival Hart, who built a seat here, in which he magnificently entertained Queen Elizabeth, July 22, 1573; who** on her arrival received the first caresses of a nymph who personated the genius of the house : then, the scene was shifted, and, from several chambers, which, as they were contrived, represented a ship, a sea conflict was ottered up to the spectators' view, which so much obliged the eyes of the Princess with the charms of delight, that, upon her de- parture, she left upon this house (to commemorate the memory both of the author and the artifice) the name and ap- pellation of Bank Hart !' " The manor belongs to Sir Per- cival Hart Dyke, Bart., of Lullingston Castle, in this county. OSTERLEY PARK, Middlesex, one mile and three- quarters from Hounslow, is the seat of the Earl of Jersey. It belonged anciently to the convent of Sion, on the sup- pression of which it was granted to Henry, Marquess of Exeter: and reverting to the crown on his attainder, Edward VI. granted it to the Duke of Somerset. Being again forfeited, it was granted, in 1557, to Augustine Thaier. Between this period and 1570, it came into the possession of Sir Thomas Gresham, by whom a noble edifice was erected. Here this great merchant magnifi- cently entertained Queen Elizabeth, before whom, " The Devises of Warre," and a Play," were performed. Nor- den, who wrote in 1596, describes Osterley, which was then in the possession of the *' Ladie Gresham," as ''a faire and stately building of bricke, standing in a park well wooded, and garnished with manie faire ponds, which ailoorded not onely fish and foule, as swanes and other water- foule ; but also great use for milles, as paper-milles, oil-miJles, and corne-milles, all which are now decaid, a corne-mille excepted. In the same parke was a verie faire Heronrie, for the increase and preservation whereof sundrie allurements were devised and set up, now fallen all to ruin." The mansion afterwards passed into several hands, and was the seat of Sir William Waller, the Parlia- 454 OTFORD. mentary General. In the beginning- of the last century it was obtained, on mortgage, by Sir Francis Child, who commenced the present mansion about the year 1750. His brother was the late Sir Richard Child, whose grand- daughter, Lady Sarah Child (the eldest daughter of the late Countess of Westmoreland), married the Earl of Jersey. The park is finely wooded, and six miles in circum- ference. The house is a magnificent structure of brick, extending 140 feet from E. to W. and 117 feet from N. to S. At each angle is a turret; and to the east front is a fine portico of the Ionic order. The apartments are spacious, and magnificently fitted up with rich hangings of silk, velvet, and ghobelin tapestry, elegantly sculptured marbles, highly enriched entablatures of mosaic work, &c. The decorations were effected chiefly at the cost of the late Sir R. Child. The Great Halt is finely adorned with stucco-work. The stair-case is adorned with a painting of the apotheosis of William I., by Kubens. In the gallery, which is 130 feet in length, are many select pictures, by old masters, together with some fine portraits, including those of Sir Thomas Gresham ; the Duke of Buckingham, by Rubens ; King Charles, and the Earl of Strafford, by Vandyke ; the Duchess of York, and Mrs. Hughes, by Sir Peter Lely ; and a fine painting. of Vandyke, by himself. The library, which is fitted up with great elegance, and enriched by pic- tures, contains a very rare and valuable collection of books. From the lodges at the entrance of the park, a spacious road descends, between tvyo fine sheets of water. OTFORD, a village in Kent, three miles north of Seven oaks, in the direction of Farningham, is noted in history as the place where Offa, king of Mercia, defeated Lothaire, king of Kent, in the time of the Saxon heptarchy. OfFa, the treacherous murderer of Ethelbert, king of the East Angles, having by his victories gained possession of Otford, ceded it to the monks of that age, as an atonement for his flagitious crime. The place was sur- rendered " i« pascua jJorcorum,'' (as victuals for hogs), OTFORD. 455 and this act of propitiation seems to have succeeded ; for William of Malraesbury, one of our best monkish historians, speaks of the prince as one respecting whom it was doubt- ful whether his vices or his virtues preponderated ! The derivation of Otford is uncertain, but it is most probably a corruption of Offa'sford, for there is still a ford crossing part of the village, and the place is evidently of remote antiquity. This the visitor suspects at the first glance, and further observation brings conviction strong. Scarcely a house in the place but bears unequivocal marks of by-gone ages, and we believe that here may still be found much work for the industrious antiquary, which, from the insig- nificance of the village, has escaped the researches of previous inquirers. The church is unquestionably of great age ; it has a wooden porch, with the date of 1637, but the greater portion of the edifice is of Norman archi- tecture. It has a handsome east window, and several valuable monuments ; one of marble, and perhaps the most beautiful in the county of Kent, to Charles Polhill, Esq., a grandson of Ireton, with a statue of him, and a medallion of his wife ; another to David, son of Thomas Polhill, Esq., of Otford, by Elizabeth, daughter of Ireton, by Bridget, daughter of Oliver Cromwell. About two years since, too, as the minister informed us (who kindly accompanied us round the church) some mortar at the side of the altar accidentally fell to the ground, and a further quantity hav- ing been knocked away, part of a very ancient tomb pro- truded. It is of tabular form,"] and composed 'of most beautiful Kentish rag-work, but nothing more is known of it. In this church is also a flat stone to one of the Lords Sydney. The parish register records the marriage of a man aged 99 : the bride's age is not mentioned ; but it seems that he survived his nuptials seven years, and she twenty. The church is dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and in it there formerly stood an image of that saint, which was held in great veneration by the inhabitants of Otford and the surrounding villages, who made offerings to this idol, with prayers to be blest with sons, until, at length, their 456 OXFORD. superstition attained such a height, that the image was ordered to be demolished. The place, after being given up by Offa, continued for some centuries the property of the church, attached to the see of Canterbur}^ A palace was built here which was the residence of several of the Archbishops. To this palace were attached two parks, with other large posses- sions. Thomas a Becket is said to have been particularly fond of this retirement, and to have wrought many miracles at Otford, which are believed to this day by some of the villagers. " As he walked in the old parke, busie at his prayers, he was hindered in his devotions by the sweete note and melodie of a nightingale, that sang in a bush beside him, and therefore (in the might of his holinesse) he enjoyned, that thenceforth no birde of that kinde should be so bold as to sing thereabouts; and a smithe, then dwelling in the towne, having clod his horse, he enacted by the same authoritie, that, after that time, no smithe should thrive within the parish. It was seen, too, that tlie place wanted a fit spring to water it, and Becket strake his stalFe into the drye grounde, in a place therefore now called St. Thomas's TVell, and immediately water ap- peared, which, running plentifuUie, servethe the offices of the new house till the present day." We did not inquire whether any nightingale has ever yet been so bold'' as to sing at Otford, or whether any smith has since thrived" there; but, certain it is, that St. Thomas's, or Beckett's Well, as it is called, still exists. It is surrounded by the remains of a wall of flint, upwards of two feet thick, and is undoubtedly a fine and abundant spring, strongly impregnated with iron. Hence it is a tonic beverage, and an invigorating bath, and hence its efficacy in bracing the system and strengthening weak limbs, of which many marvellous stories are still told in the village. The palace at Otford must have been of vast extent. Part of it is still standing, and a whole field of large size, is covered with the ruins of the remainder. This field, during the extraordinary dry weather in the summer of OTTERSHAW PARK. 457 1835, was so unusually burnt up and shrunk, that the shape and size of everj gTOund-floor apartment of the original edifice, could b© distinctly seen and traced. The whole remains of this ancient palace, including the well, stand on a farm of a gentleman named Selby, whose lady politely afforded us every information in her powder. Nume- rous coins had, she said, been dug up in the grounds, and the entire farm, which is extensive, presented vestiges of what must originally have been a very large range of buildings. Beckett's well, too, which is at the back of the house occupied by her family, was still, she told us, esteemed for its virtues ; but the water was too hard for any household use. On referring to books, we find that, up to the death of Archbishop Morton, in 1460, several of the primates of England had successively resided at Knoll, (which see page 385) ; after that period, it is stated, ** the two next archbishops, "Dene and Warham, seem to have preferred tJie 7ieig]ibouring palace of Otford." Archbishop Warham expended 33,000/. on this place, where he was frequently visited by Henry VIII. His successor, Cranmer, surrendered to the crown " the manor and palace of Otford,^' with other possessions. This was in 1538 ; within thirty years after wdiich, as appears from Lambarde, the palace was so woefully destroyed, that only the hall and chapel remained perfect. There is a mount here, called Otford Mount, which affords a fine view of the surrounding country. The village itself is in the valley, and may perhaps be pleasant in summer ; but in winter it seemed dull, marshv, and in every way disagreeable. We were glad to see that at length, though late, some exertions are about to be made to educate the poorer classes in this neighbourhood, by means of a National School just established. OTTERSHAW PARK, situate at Timber Hill, Surrey, 3 miles S. VV. from Chertsey, and 22 from London, is now the seat of Scott Stonehewer, Esq. The mansion is a substantial structure, in the Italian style. The entrance-porch is supported by columns of the Doric 458 PADDINGTON. order, and a double flight of stone steps leads to the hall, which measures 27 feet by 22. 7'he library, 40 feet by 14, and 14 high, has a screen of Ionic columns at each end, and communicates with an elegant octagonal drawing- room, 26 feet 6 inches each side, finished in the Chinese taste, with a circular dome ceiling. The music-room is remaikaby neat, and adjoins a handsome conservatory, near which is an extensive green-house. A slated balcony extends along the south front, covered by an elegant virandab. The kitchen-gardens and pleasure grounds are extensive : they include a flower-house, a pinery and grapery, a succession-house, two peach-houses, a melon- ground, an aviary, &c. The park has some noble timber some fine deer, and several handsome sheets of water. Its whole extent is about 400 acres. This place was formerly the seat of the late Edmund Boehm, Esq., and his accomplished lady, who, in conse- quence of their property becoming legally liable to partner- ship involvements, were unhappily compelled, in 1819, to advertise the whole estate for sale. PADDINGTON, an extensive village in Middlesex, one mile north from Hyde Park Corner, and four miles N. W. from the Bank, now joined to London by continuous buildings, and in fact forming part of the metropolis. The church, erected in 1790, is an elegant structure, near the site of a former church, and is situate on an eminence, surrounded by venerable elms. Its figure is a square of about 50 feet, having, towards the south, a portico of the Doric order. The centres on each side of the square are projecting parallelograms, which give recesses for an altar, a vestry, and two staircases. The roof terminates with a cupola and vane. Under the chancel are deposited the remains of John, late Marquess of Lansdowne, who died in 1809 ; and in the church -yard is an inscribed stone, in memory of the Reverend Alexander Geddes, LL.D., who died in February, 1802, aged 65 years. Here also lie buried the following eminent artists ; Francis Vivares, pain's hill. 459 the engraver, who died November 26, 1780 ; William Ar- minger, statuary, 1793 ; Joseph Francis Nollekins, painter (father of the statuary Nollekins), 1747 ) George Barrett, the landscape painter, 1784 ; Thomas Banks, the cele- brated sculptor, 1805 ; and Lewis Schiavonetti, 1810. The other church, for the accommodation of the parish- ioners of Paddington, which is now generally called the Neiv Church, was built about five years ago, in the cheap modern Gothic style, and is situate near Connaught Square, Upper Berkeley Street, West. It is a neat edifice. Although Paddington is now contiguous to the metro- . polis, there are still many pleasant spots about it, which are open and salubrious, if not rural. Of this character, are West bourn Green^ Maida Hill and Valcy &c. (which see,) The Paddington Canal, which joins the Grand Junc- tion in the vicinity of Norwood, was first opened in 1801, and has contributed essentially towards the increase of buildings in this parish, w^hich are still extending with great rapidity in every direction. A capacious basin is connected with the canal at Paddington, by the side of which are large wharfs and warehouses belonging to the company. The Grand Junction Heater IForhs were constructed here a few years ago, by the proprietors of the canal, to supply the contiguous parishes with water^ and large iron pipes of an immense bore have been laid down for the purpose. The roof of the engine-house is of iron, and it presents one of the most light and elegant examples of the kind that is anywhere to be seen. The steam-engine is of vast power. PAIN'S HILL, near Cobham, Surrey, 17 miles from London, and about 7 from Kingston, formerly the elegant seat of Benjn. B. Hopkins, Esq., whose riches could not give, as Pope predicted, to dying Hopkins, heirs but more recently of the Earl of Carhampton, whose dovv'ager- countess occupied it till her death, about 3 years ago. 460 pain's hill. The gardens are celebrated for their extraordinary beauty. They were formed by the FJon. Charles Hamilton (of the Abercorn family) partly from the barren heath, and partly by availing himself of the river Mole, v^hich runs at the foot of the south bank, and of the natural inequalities of the ground. Large valleys, descending in different direc- tions towards the river, break the brow into separate emi- nences ; and the gardens and plantations are extended along the edge, in a semicircular form, between the wind- ing river which describes their outward boundary, and the park which fills up the cavity of the crescent. The house stands on a hill in the centre of the crescent, and has a projecting portico, between two semicircular sides. The views are charming, and in the adjacent thicket is a parterre, and an orangery, where exotic plants are in- termixed during the summer with common shrubs, and a constant succession of flowers. The hill is divided from a much larger eminence by a small valley : and from a seat placed on the top of the second eminence, a scene totally different appears. The general prospect, though beautiful, is the least engaging circumstance ; the attention is immediately attracted from the cultivated plain to the point of hanging wood at a dis- tance, but still within the place. Opposite to the hill thus covered is another in the country, of a similar shape, but bare and barren ; and, beyond the opening between them, the moor, falling back into a wide concave, closes the interval. Another point of the same eminence exhibits a landscape, distinguished from the last in every particular, except in the area of its existence : it is entirely within the place, and commanded from an open Gothic buildings on the very edge of a high steep, which rises above an artificial lake in the bottom. The whole of this lake is never seen at once, but by its form, by the disposition of some islands, and by the trees in them and on the banks, it always seems to be larger than it is. On the left are con- tinued plantations, to exclude the country ; on the right, all PAIN S HILL. 461 the park opens ; and, in front, beyond the water^ is the hanging wood, the point of which appeared before ; but here it stretches quite across the view, and displays all its extent and varieties. A river, issuing from the lake, passes under a bridge of five arches near the outlet, directs its course towards the wood, and flows underneath it. On the side of the hill is couched a low hermitage, encom- passed with thickets, and overhung with shade ; and, far to the right, on the summit, rises a lofty tower, eminent above all the trees. Around the hermitage, the closest coverts and darkest greens spread their gloom : in other places the tints are mixed ; and in one a little glimmering light marks an opening in the wood, and diversifies its uniformity, without diminishing its greatness. Through- out the scene consistency is preserved in the midst of variety ; all the parts unite easily ; the plantations in the bottom join to the wood w^hich hangs on the hill 3 those on the upper grounds of the park break into groves, which afterward divide into clumps, and in the end taper into single trees. The ground is various ; but it points from all sides towards the lake, and, slackening its descent as it approaches, slides, at last, gently into the water. The groves and lawns on the declivities are elegant and rich ; the expanse of the lake, enlivened by plantations on the banks, and the reflection of the bridge on the surface, animate the landscape; while the extent and height of the hanging wood give an air of grandeur to the whole. An easy winding descent leads from the Gothic building to the lake, and a broad walk is afterwards continued along the banks, and across an island, close to the water on one hand, and skirted by a wood on the other. The spot is retired, but the retirement is cheerful ; the lake is calm, but it is full to the brim, and never darkened with shadow; the walk is smooth and almost level, and touches the mar- gin of the water; the wood, which secludes all view into the country, is composed of elegant trees, fuUof the lightest greenS; and bordered with shrubs and flowers ; and though R R 3 462 Pain's hill. the place is almost surrounded with plantations, jet within itself it is open and airy. It is embellished with three bridges, a ruined arch, and a grotto; and the Gothic building, still very near, and impending directly over the lake, belongs to the place ; but these objects are never visible altogether ; they appear in succession as the walk proceeds ; and their number does not crowd the scene, which is en- riched by their frequency . The transition is almost immediate from this polished spot to another of the most uncultivated nature ; not dreary, not romantic, but rude : it is a wood, which overspreads a large tract of uneven ground. The glades through it are sometimes closed on both sides with thickets ; at other times they are only cut through the fern in the openings ; and even the larches and firs, which are mixed with beech on the side of the principal glade, are left in such a state of apparent neglect, that they seem to be the product of the wild, not decorations of the walk. This is the hanging wood, which before was so noble an object, and is now such a distant retreat. Near the tower it is thin, but about the hermitage it is thickened with trees of the darkest greens. A narrow gloomy path, overhung with Scotch and spruce firs, leads to the cell, composed of logs and roots. The design is as simple as the materials, and the furniture within old and uncouth. All the circum- stances which belong to the character are retained in the utmost purity, in the approach and entrance ; in the second room they are suddenly changed for a view of the gardens and the country. From the tower, on the top of the hill, is another prospect, much more extensive, but not more beautiful : the objects are not so well selected, nor seen to so great advantage ; some of them are too distant; some too much below the eye ; and a large portion of the heath intervenes which disfigures the view. Not far from the tower is the scene polished to a high degree of improvement, in which stands a large Doric building, called the Temple of Bacchus, with a fine portico PALMERS GREEN. 463 in the front, a rich alto-relievo in the pediment, and on each side a range of pilasters : it was formerly decorated within with antique busts, and a beautiful antique colossal statue of the god in the centre, which has since been sold by auction ; the room has nothing of that solemnity which is often affectedly ascribed to the character, but, without being gaudy, is full of light, ornament, and splendour. I'he situation is on a brow, which commands an agreeable prospect ; but the top of the hill is almost a flat, diversified, however, by several thickets, and broad walks winding between them. The gardens end here : this is one of the extremities of the crescent, and hence, to the house in the other extremity, is an open walk through the park. The water is seen to greater advantage from this point than from any other. Its broadest expanse is at the foot of the hill ; from that it spreads in several directions, sometimes under the planta- tions, sometimes, into the midst of them, and at other times winding behind them. The principal bridge of five arches is just below. At a distance, deep in the wood, is another, a single arch, thrown over a stream, wliich is lost a little beyond it. The position of the latter is directly athwart that of the former; the eye passes along the one and under the other ; and the greater is of stone, the smaller of wood : no two objects bearing the same name can be more dififerent in figure and situation. The banks also of the lake are infinitely diversified : they are open in one place, and in another covered with plantations, which sometimes come down to the brink of the water, and sometimes leave room for a walk. The glades are either conducted along the sides, or open into the thickest of the wood ; and now and then they seem to turn round it towards the country, which appears in the distance, rising above this picturesque and various scene, through a wide opening between the hang-* ing wood on the one hand, and the eminence crowned with the Gothic tower on the other. PALMER'S GREEN, a rural hamlet near Edmonton, 464 PvVNCRAS. in the ^' green lanes," consisting of a few small villa residences. PANCRAS, an extensive parish in Middlesex, situated north of London, 1 mile from Holborn. It includes one- third of the hamlet of Highgate, the hamlets of Kentish Town, Battle-bridge, Camden Town, Somers Town, as w ell as all Tottenham -court-road, and all the streets to the west as far as Cleveland-street, and Rathbone-place. The old church and church yard, dedicated to St. Pancras, have been long noted as a burial place for Roman Catholics ; many of the stones exhibiting a cross, and the initials R.I. P. {Requiescat in pace — May he rest in peace,) which initials are always used by the Catholics in their sepulchral monu- ments. " I have heard it assigned, says Mr. Lysons, by some persons of that persuasion, as a reason for this prefe- rence to Pancras as a burial-place, that, before the late convulsions in that country, masses were said in a church in the south of France, dedicated to the same saint, for the souls of the deceased interred at St, Pancras in England V Jeremiah Collier, the pertinacious non-juror, and William WooUet, the celebrated engraver, were both buried here : the former died in 1726 ; the latter in 1785. The church- yard was enlarged in 1793, by the addition of a large piece of ground to the south-east, in which is to be seen the mo- nument of Mrs. Godwin, (the celebrated Mary Woolstone- erafty) author of the Rights of Woman, and of other publi- cations, which excited general attention. She died in child-bed, September 10th., 1797, in her forty-ninth year. .Here likewise were buried the Rev. Arthur O'Leary ; the celebrated Corsican general, Pascal de Paoli, who died in 1807, aged eighty-two years; the Chevalier d'Eon, 1810, aged eighty-three years ; Mr. Edwards, author of a Treatise on Perspective ; Cavallo, a well-known writer on subjects of Natural Philosophy ; and Mr. John Walker, author of the Pronouncing and Rhyming Diction- aries, and other works. In this parish are likewise several chapels of ease ; and cemeteries belonging to the parishes PANCRAS. 465 of St. James, Westminster ; St. Giles in the Fields ; St. Andrew, Holborn ; St. George the Martyr; and St. George, Bloom sbmy. Neat chapels are attached to the cemeteries of St. James, and St. Giles; that of the former, built in 1792, stands on the east side of the road from Tottenham Court to Camden Town ; that of the latter, is nearly con- tiguous to St. Pancras church -yard. In the New-road, at the corner of Euston-square, is St. Pancras new church, designed by Messrs. W. and H. W. In wood, after Athenian examples — namely, the temples of Minerva, Polias, and Pandrosus, and the Tower of the Winds at Athens. At the east end of the church are two wings, within each of which is placed a large sarcophagus, as an emblem of the purpose of their interior, which are used as catacombs, and so constructed as to contain 2,000 coffins. The sides are ornamented with female figures, termed Caryatides, or water-bearers, an architectural em- bellishment, supposed to have been well known to the ancient Greeks, but generally thought inappropriate as decorations of a place of worship, not to mention that they are here but clumsily executed. The portico, columns, steps, &c. at the principal entrance, are well designed, and, with the single, but important (though too frequent) de- traction, that the columns are too close to the main building, have a fine effect. The tower is chaste and graceful. The interior ef the church, which is without columns from the galleries to the roof, is remarkably light and elegant. The pulpit and reading-desk were made from the celebrated Fairlop Oak, formerly an inhabitant of Hainault forest. The expense of this structure, the original contract for which was 42,223/. amounted to nearly 80,000/. The first stone was laid on the 1st Julj^, 1819, and it was com- pleted in 1822. The Foundling Hospital, at the end of Lamb's Conduit- sti eet, is in this parish ; as also the Small Pox Hospital, King's Cross. In Gray's Inn-lane, is the Welsh Charity School, built in 1771 ; and the very extensive premises of 46G PAX — PAR, Messrs. Cubitt, the builders. In a house near the church- yard, is a mineral spring, formerly called Pancras Wells, in great esteem some years ago ; and near Battle-bridge is another called St. Chad's Wells, the gardens of which have lately been newly re-arranged. In a field at the back of St. Pancras church-yard, Mons. Garnerin, the famous aerial traveller, alighted in safety from his parachute on the 21st. September, 1802 ; after a rapid descent of more than ten minutes from an immense height in the air, after he had cut the cord that attached his vehicle to the balloon in which he had just ascended from the neighbourhood of North Audley -street — (See Bagnigge IVells, Kenthh Town, Somers' Towriy Camden Town.) PANSHANGER. about 3^ miles beyond Hertford, and 24 from London, is the delighful retreat of Earl Cowper. The mansion, the situation of which is particularly beauti- ful, has been recently much enlarged and modernised : it has an embattled parapet, and a square tower rising over the entrance-gateway. The grounds are very tastefully dis- posed, and are enlivened by the vicinity of the river Maron, which flows on their south-west side. PARK HALL, an ancient manor in Essex, so named from a park formed by the inclosure of a wood, by licence of King Henry III. It is in the parish of They don Gernon, and is now the seat of William Coxhead Marsh, Esq. PARSON'S GREEN, Middlesex, a hamlet of Fulham^ from which it is distant 1 mile N.E. An ancient house at the corner of the Green, belonged formerly to Sir Edmund Saunders, Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench, in 1682, who raised himself to that elevated office from the station of an errand-boy in an attorney's chambers. It was the residence of Samuel Richardson, the]celebrated author of Sir Charles Grandison, &c., who removed hither from Nort End, in 1755. The site is now occupied by Dr. Taylor's academy. A house on the east-side of the green, built by Sir Francis Child, Lord Mayor of London, in 1699, and modernised by the late John Powell, Esq^., was lately the PL€ — PEN. 4(7 residence of Sir John IJales, Bart. Near the Green on the king's road, is Peterboroi/gli House, the elegant seat of the late — Sampayo, Esq. In the vicinity are extensive market-gardens. PECKHAM, a hamlet to Camberwell, Surrey, 3| miles S.S.E. from London, which, considering its proximity to the metropolis, is exceedingly rural and attractive, on account of the many pleasant walks and rides in and near it- — across the Rye, up Nun Head Hill, towards Syden- ham, &c. In Peckham are some elegant houses with ex- tensive grounds, the abodes of opulent citizens, and a vast number of genteel second and third-rate dwellings. In the vicinity are numerous villa and cottage residences. A house in the High-street here was occasionally inhabited by James II. wl.en duke of York, an^near the Surrey canal, stood the house in which Charles II. is said to have visited Nell Gwynne. On the south bankof the canal is the new church of St. George, Camberwell — fSee Cam- berwellj — and in the hamlet are several chapels for Dissen- ters. In one of these Dr. Collyer preaches to a numerous and attached auditory. In Peckham Rye Lane is a chapel of ease, erected by subscription a few years ago. It is a plain edifice, in the modern Gothic style, with a small turret and a slated spire, of picturesque appearance. There is also another chapel of ease in this neighbourhood^ which was originally a dissenting meeting-house, but was opened about five years ago, as a place of worship in con- nexion with the established church. It is called Camden Chapel. Here was formerly a three- days' fair in August, row for some years discontinued. PENTOiNVILLE, a hamlet of the parish of Clerkenwell, in the division of Finsbury, Middlesex, situate on a pleasant eminence, west of Islington. VViien Clerkenwell church was rebuilt by act of parliament, in 1790, a large chapel here (near the Angel Inn,) which had been built about two years, was made parochial, as it still remains ; but, since that period, the district-church of St. Mark, 4G8 PETERSHAM. Pentonville, has been erected in Myddelton-square, which, with the other new church of the same parish near Baker- street, Bagnigge- Wells-road, aided bj the proximity of the several churches of Islington, Pancras, &c.,now tolerably suffice for the accommodation of the inhabitants of this populous district. At the top of the New- road, stands the Jngel Inn, of which w^e have just spoken, which is generally called the " Angel, at Islington," but is in fact the Angel, at Pentonville, it being in Clerkenwell, and not in Islington parish. This inn, and the Peacock, just beyond (which latter is in Islington) are celebrated on account of the north country coaches and mails constantly stopping here. At the top of Penton-street, is White Cojiduit House, in Islington parish — [see Islington.^ The greater part of Pentonville was, within the last half century, fields and sheep-pens. An individual named Penton was the first builder here, and hence the name. The district is now densely built over, and thickly popu- lated ; 3 ct its elevated situation north of London, its pioximity to the fields in the direction of Copenhagen House, Kentish Town, Highgate, &c. and its convenience of communication with most parts of the metropolis, whether per legs or omnibus, conspire to render it a salubrious and desirable place of residence. There are several chapels for dissenters here. At the corner of Southampton-street, New-road, is the Female Penitentiari/. — (see Neiv Road, and our account of the London charities, in the sketch of London as it is,'') PETERSHAM, a village in Surrey, 9 miles from Hyde Park corner, situate low, on the banks of the Thames, but surrounded by very beautiful scenery. The parish in- cludes a small portion of Richmond Park, and derives its name either from having anciently belonged to the abbey of St. Peter at Chertsey, or from the dedication of the church to St. Peter — Petersham, quasi Peter's ham, or village. There was a church here at the time of the Con- cjuest ; but the present structure, which is of brick and PETERSHAM. 469 ■femciform, was erected in 1505. It consists of a nave, a chancel, and two transepts, with a low tower on the west side. In the chancel is a monument to George Cole, Esq. who died in 1624, with his recumbent effigy, in a black robe and a ruff, and another figure beneath it, now con- cealed by a pew. In the south transept is a monument to Sir Thomas Jenner, Knight, successively Baron oftbeEx- chequer and Justice of the Common Pleas, who died in 1707. In the church- yard is a tomb-stone to Captain Vancouver, the circumnavigator, who died in this village in 1798. Petersham church was a chapel of ease to Kingston till 17 69 ; when, by act of parliament, this parish and Kew were made one vicarage. Fetersham Lodge, now the seat of Lord PIuntingtx)wer, was built by the first Earl of Harrington, about 1725, on the site of a mansion, burnt down in 1721, which was the property of the Earl of Rochester. In 1779 this estate was sold to Thomas Pitt, Esq., afterwards Lord Camelford, of whom, in 1790, his present majesty, then Duke of Clarence, bought it for his summer residence, and used it for that purpose for four seasons. In 1794, it was sold to Col. Cameron, afterwards to Sir William Manners, Bart., and lastly to the present owner. The house was built after a design of the Earl of Burlington. The court-front is plain, but the garden-front, on which side are the state apartments, is regular and elegant. The pleasure-grounds are extensive and beautiful, including a small part of Richmond Park, granted by King George III., com- prising the mount on which, according to tradition, Henry VIII stood to see the signal for Anne Boleyne's execution. An estate called Sudhrook, being now a single mansion with its grounds, was in ancient times a hamlet of this parish. It was formerly the property of the celebrated John Duke of Argyle, and after him of his daughter Lady Greenwich. It now belongs to the Right Honourable Sir s s 470 PIMLICO. E>. Wilmot Horton, M.P., who bas recently made great improvements in both the house and grounds. Here are also the seats of the dowager Marchioness of Bute, the Marchioness of Lothian, D. Erskine and R. Thorley, Esqrs. On the road to Richmond are five neat cottages, built in 1809 by subscription of the nobility and gentry, as alms- houses. PIMLICO, an extensive district, on the west side of St. James's Park, adjoining Westminster in one direction, Chelsea in another, and communicating by Grosvenor- place, with Hyde-park corner, and the western squares of the metropolis. The proximity of the parks has long rendered this neighbourhood attractive to a numerous class of persons, either as lodgers or permanent residents, and it has, consequently, in parts, been much built on, and inhabited, for^a long series of years 3 but latterly, partly perhaps in compliment to the new royal palace here, — (see Introduction, ''Lonlon as it is,") a rage for building speculations, on a superb sc^le, has manifested itself in this direction, which seems sanctioned by the votaries of fashion, and the possessors of rank and wealth. Belgrave- square affords a signal proof of this fact. Here is a range of mansions, most costly and splendid, and most of them tenanted by nobles and gentlemen of fortune, with the view, it is presumed, that this must shortly be the court- end of the town. Again, the Five- fields, in which cavalry soldiers were wont (in our boyhood) to practise their horsemanship, and across which it was hazardous to pass after dusk, are now flanked with elegant and high-rented edifices, and called Eaton-square ; and the entire district has participated to a certain extent in these stylish doings ; new, and many of them good houses, having arisen within these few years in all directions ; but especially in the immediate vicinity of Bel grave-square — as Chester-street and place, Ebury- street, and many others, which have PIN — PIR. 471 risen from comparative nonentity into temporary import- ance. If the tide of fashion continue to flow this way, all this may answer ; but we take leave to doubt. At the top of Grosvenor-place is St. George's Hospital ; in the lower road, opposite Belgrave-place, was, some time back, an immense building in which bread was made by steam — a speculation which has now been abandoned. Near St. James's Park is the Gun Tavern, a place of enter- tainment of about the same class as White Conduit House. Near the new palace are the King's Stables, with houses for the residence of the clerk of the stables and other officers. — (See Chelsea.) PINNER, a pleasant village in Middlesex, 2 miles N.W. from Harrow, and 12 from London, having several very agreeable seats in and around it. PIRGO, or PERGO, now called Pergo Park, a manor in Essex, near Havering Bower, of great antiquity. The present mansion was built in 1770, when the original manor-house was pulled down. That was built at a very early period, but nothing is known of its possessors pre- vious to 1226, when it was in the charge of Phillips Forrester. It is supposed to liave been intended as a palace for the Queens of England, and especially as a join- ture for the queens dowager, several of whom are stated to have resided here many years, and one* to have lived here until her death. In 1559, Queen Elizabeth granted the manor, with the park and grange, to Sir John Grey, uncle to tlie ill-fated Lady Jane Grey, and it remained in posses- sion of his descendants, till Henry Grey, baron of Groby, sold it, about A.D. 1600, to Sir John Cheke, Knt. by whose family it was held for upwards of a century, till it descended as a marriage-portion with a niece of Edward Cheke, Esq., who married Thomas Archer, Esq. who, in 1747, was createdjBaron Archer, of Umberslade. His lady died here in 1754. His lordship, now deceased, resided * Joan, Queen of Henry IV. — Stowe's Annals. 472 PIS — PLir. here for many j^ears. The estate was afterwards possessed by E. R. Howe, Esq., and is now the seat of Michael Field, Esq. There is a small chapel here, said to have been originally designed for the foresters, officers, and neighbours. Sir John Grey, with his lady, the daughter of Viscount Montacute, lie buried here, and on the floor are the two following ancient inscriptions ; one with the words only, " Sir Water de Bounstede Chanoyn" ; the other, " Of your charite, pray for the soule of Anne Lovekyne, sumetyme wyfe of George Lovekyne, clerke of the stables to our sovereign lorde kyng Henry the Eighth, which Anne deceased xiii. day of June, l5i3," PISHIOBURY, the seat of R. Alston, Esq., near Sawbridgeworth, Herts, was anciently the property and residence of the Mildmay family. The house is situate in a bottom, and of attractive exterior, and the grounds, w^atered by the Stork, are agreeably laid out. PITS-HANGER, a subordinate manor to Ealing, in Middlesex, w-as for many years the property of the Edwards' family; of whom Thomas Edwards, Esq., the author of the celebrated Canons of Criticism," was long a resident here. Sir John Soane, who once possessed this estate, greatly improved the house and grounds, and rendered this a very pleasant and classical retreat. This gentleman sold the estate about the year 1815 : whilst in his possession, here were many curious specimens of antique sculpture, &c., and the eight original pictures of the Rakers Progress^ by Hogarth. PLAISTOW, a rural village in Essex, in the parish of East Ham, situate a mile eastward of the church of that place. PLUMSTEAD, or PLUMSTED, a village in Kent, 10 miles from London, situate between Woolwich and Erith, on v n eminence rising from the Thames, has a neat church, and had formerly a market. Though the village is small, the parish of Plumstead is extensive ; the greater portion POL — POP. of it consists of rich marsh ground, on part of which stands the royal arsenal. Part of that celebrated eminence Shooter^s Hill, is in this parish; and the improvements from the base of this hill towards the village of Welling, must excite the attention of every traveller. The woods have been cleared, and fine productive land, well cultivated, appears decked with numerous cottage erections. From the excellent drainage, and the destruction of the woods, the ague, which once afflicted this neighbourhood, is now not known. In the brick-fields in this parish have been dug out the fossil remains of elephants; and in repairing the embankment of the Thames, a few years since, there was discovered, at low-water, a large quantity of yew-trees lying prostrate. Many of them were removed, and the wood was found to be quite sound. POLESDEN, in the parish of Great Bookham, Surrey, is a handsome seat, backed by some remarkably fine beech- trees. The house stands high, and commands a rich prospect. The grounds comprise upwards of 300 acres, with a terrace- walk 900 feet in length. This was once the seat of Richard Brinsley Sheridan ; it is now the property of Jos. Bonsor, Esq. POPLAR, a populous parish in Middlesex, near the Thames, 2J miles east from London, deriving its name from the great quantity of poplars which formerly grew here. The church was erected between the years 1650 and 1654, by subscription, the ground being given by the East India Company, since which time that Company have not only allowed the minister a house, with a garden and field con- taining three acres, but 20/. a-year during pleasure. It was nearly rebuilt by the Compaliy in 1776, in consideration of which they have the patronage of the living alternately with Brazen-nose College, Oxford. Against the east wall is the monument of Robert Ainsworth, the celebrated lexicogra- pher, who for many years kept a school in this neighbour- hood; and in the north aisle is an admirable piece of sculpture, by Flaxman, in memory of George Steevens, s s 3 * 474 PRI — PUR. Esq., who cheerfully employed a considerable portion of his life and fortune in the illustrations of Shakspeare. The deceased, who was born in this parish on the 10th May, 1738, and died at Hampstead, January 22nd, 1800, is repre- sented in bas-relief, earnestly contemplating a bust of Shak- speare: in the back-ground is a table, with paper, an ink- stand on it, and books. The inscription is from the pen of Mr. Hay ley. Here is a hospital belonging to the Company, in which are 22 pensioners, (some men, but more widows,) who have a quarterly allowance, according to the rank which they, or the widows' husbands, had on board of the Company's ships; and a chaldron of coals annually. There are also many out-pensioners belonging to the hospital. Poplar-marsh, called also Stepney-marsh, or the Isle of Dogs, is reckoned one of the richest spots in England; for it not only raises the largest cattle, but the grass is esteemed a restorative for distempered cattle. In this marsh was an ancient chapel, called the chapel of St. Mary; perhaps a hermitage, founded by some devout persons for the purpose of saying masses for the souls of mariners. On its foundation is a neat farm-house. PRIMROSE HILL, (so named from the primroses which formerly grew here in great abundance) is a verdant eminence of considerable height, situate on the left of the Hampstead-road, near London, on the verge of the Regent's Park. From this hill is a very fine panoramic view, em- bracing the country for many miles round, and looking en- tirely over the metropolis. At the foot of the hill is the Chalk Farm Tavern^ with tea-gardens, cricket and archery grounds, &c., ,the vicinity of which has been long noted for duels. Here is a good view of the London and Birmingham railway, which commences at Euston Grove, at a short distance to the east. PlIRFLEET, anciently Pourtefleet, a pleasant and populous hamlet of the parish of West Thurrock, Essex, is thought to be a corruption of Portfieet, It is situate on PL^RFLEET. rising ground, near the Tliames, on a spot where the country opens out in extensive and varied prospects ; in the immediate vicinitj, numerous romantic scenes are formed hy the high projecting chalk-rocks, which exhibit now and then deep and extensive caverns, peculiar to this part of the coast; and northward is a woody tract, with Warley and Brentwood hills, interspersed with villages, gentlemen^s seats, and farm-houses. A rivulet falls into the Thames here, with the aid of which a little harbour is formed, full of shipping business and animation ; added to which, the surrounding rustic scenery, and in the dis- tance, the Kentish hills on the opposite shore, compose a picture peculiarly interesting, especially when viewed from the eminence of the beacon cliffy which overlooks the village. Here Queen Ehzabeth erected the royal standard during the threatened invasion by the Spanish Armada ; and on the summit of the hill was a signal beacon, which, like the modern telegraph, corresponded with others near the metropolis, and along the sea-coast. At Purfieet, are the national magazines for gunpowder, erected in the year 1762. These buildings consist of five parallel sections, each above 160 feet long, 52 feet wide, five feet thick, and arched beneath the slated roof ; the arch is three feet in thickness, and the ridge of the roof is cove red with a coping of lead, twenty- two inches broad. In the two outermost sections, is kept the powder, in small barrels piled within wooden frames, from the bottom to the roof ; and between the frames is a platform of planks, to prevent the pos- sibility of striking against any substance capable of emitting a spark. As a further security, those who enter the place are furnished with goloshes and a smock frock. Nothing of iron is admitted, for fear of a fatal collision ; the doors are of copper and the wheels of the barrows are of brass. In these buildings are frequently deposited 30,000 barrels, or 3,000,000 lbs. of gunpowder. Should an explosion take place, it is thought that London even, although fifteen miles distant, would suffer ; and the dread of such an 476 PUR — PUT. accident by lightning, struck the board of Ordnance so forcibly, that in the year 1772, they consulted the Royal Society on the most effectual method of preventing it. A committee was accordingly appointed, who determined on fixing conductors, on the principle advised by Dr. Franklin, and each building has now one. Many of the labouring population of this place find employ- ment in the lime and chalk-pits belonging to William Henry Whitbread, Esq. As to the church here, see West Thur- rock : near the church is a newly established ferry across the Thames to Greenhithe. PURLEY, or PIRLEY, an estate in the parish of Sandersted, Surrey, in which there was formerly a capital mansion, now a farm-house. Here resided Bradshaw, president of the court at the trial of Charles I., and more recently, Mr. Horne Tooke, whence the title of his well- known philological work, entitled Diversions of Purley.'* Mr. Tooke died here in 1812, and was buried by his friend Sir Francis Burdett, in Ealing church-yard, though it was his intention to have been interred in his own garden, for which purpose he had caused a vault and tomb to be prepared, on the latter of which was engraven the following epitaph, with blanks for date of death and age : John Horne Tooke, Late Proprietor and now Occupier Of this Spot, Was born in June, 1736 ; Died Aged = Contented and Grateful. PUTNEY, a pleasant village in Surrey, 4| miles from London, on the banks of the Thames, over which is a wooden bridge to Fulham, built in 1729 by thirty sub- scribers at 740/. each, who purchased the right of ferry here for 8,000/. The bridge cost 23,975/, and its income is now supposed to be about 3,000/. per annum. PUTNEY. 477 The church, which is a chapel of ease to Wimbledon, is of considerable antiquity : its date cannot easily be fixed ; for it exhibits the architecture of very different periods ; but it must have been first built some time after the Con- quest. It is at least certain that Archbishop Winchilsey held a public ordination in it, A.D. 1302. It appears to have been in a great measure rebuilt in the reign of Henry VII. ; the arches and clustered columns which sepa- rate the nave from the aisles are undoubtedly of that age. The north and south walls are of much greater antiquity, and from the shape of some of the windows, mightbe thought coeval with the original structure. At the west end is a handsome stone tower, supposed to have been erected about the middle of the fifteenth century. The interior is small and by no means calculated for the inhabitants of so populous a parish. Its chief ornamenti s a little chapel at the east end of the south aisle, built by Bishop West, the roof of which is adorned with rich Gothic tracery, with tlie bishop's arms, and the initials of his name. At the east end is a small tablet, put up by the late Rev. Dr. Petti ward, with a short inscription, which mentions the founder of the chapel, and the circumstance of his being born at Putney. In the church-yard is interred the celebrated deistical writer John Toland, wlio died in 1722: he wrote his Pantheisticon,'' and most of his latter works, in lodgings in this village. In the road from W^ands worth to Kich- mond, is an additional cemetery, the ground for which was given to the parish by Dr. Pettiward, in the year 1763, Here is the monumental sarcophagus of Robert Wood, Esq., the celebrated oriental traveller, who died in 1771, in his 55th year : the inscription was composed by the late Lord Orford. Putney was the birth-place of the unfortunate Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, whose father was a black- smith here. It gave birth also to Nicholas West, bishop of Ely, an eminent statesman of the same reign, whose father was a baker ; and more recently to the celebrated Edward Gibbon, Esq. 478 PUTNEY. Putney was honoured by Queen Elizabeth Tvith frequent visits, which she paid to a Mr. Lucy, of whom nothing is known, except that he was a citizen of London, and of the clothworkers' company. His house, situate near the river, was rebuilt in 1596, and was recently the property and residence ofMrs. D'Aranda, now deceased. During the civil wars of the 17th century. Putney was the scene of many interesting transactions. After tlje battle of Brent- ford, when the royal army marched to Kingston, the Earl of Essex determined to follow it ; a bridge of boats was con- structed for this purpose between Fulhamand Putney, and forts were erected on each side of the river. In 1647, Cromw^ell, equally jealous of the parliament and the king, who was then at Hampton Court, fixed his head-quarters at Putney, for the convenience of watching them both. The houses of the principal inhabitants were occupied by the officers, who, during their residence here, held their councils in the church, sitting round the communion table. On Putney Heath, at a little distance from the road, a house was erected in 1776, by David Hartley, Esq., for the purpose of proving the efficacy of his invention of plates, to preserve buildings from fire. Experiments were several times made before their Majesties, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, and many members of both houses of parliament, with complete success ; some of the spectators remaining in perfect confidence and security in the room over that in which a fire was burning with great rapidity. This house is still standing ; and near it is an obelisk built by the city of London, in 1776, with inscrip- tions commemorating the invention. Near the obelisk was, in 1796, erected one of the semaphores which communicate between London and Portsmouth. Not far from the fire-house was formerly a fashionable place of resort for public breakfasts and evening assemblies. On its site was erected a mansion, still retaining the old name of Bowling-green House. This mansion was for RAI — RAM. some time in the occupation of that great statesman the Right Hon. Wm. Pitt, who died here January 23rd, 1806. On the hrow of the heath, which commands a charming prospect over the Thames and the county of Middlesex, are several handsome seats, particularly those of Earl Bathurst, Earl of Bristol, Viscount Clifden, and Lady Grantham. RAINHAM, a parish and village in Essex. The village is 16 miles from London, and 5 from Romford, and con- sists of a single long street, situate on rising ground, with a good view over the marshes to the Thames. The whole tract of marsh land from Dagenham to this place, is famous for the richness of its grass, and affords pasturage for a great number of cattle ; multitudes of Welch, Scotch, and Lincolnshire sheep are fed upon it, and many Norfolk crone-ewes, about six or seven years old, which, being broken-mouthed, cannot feed longer in their own dry country. Great numbers of large cattle are also brought here for the purpose of grazing, for the London market, where they continue from Michaelmas to the latter end of November. Both sides of the river are guarded against the tide by walls or mounds of earth, which run for many miles along the low country. The church of Rainham, dedicated to St, Helen and St. Giles, is a small building of stone ; its walls are of extraordinary thickness, its pillars square and massive ; the arch in the chancel, and one of the door-ways are semi- circular, with Norman decorations. The tower is square and of stone. This church was founded by Richard de Lucy, and given by him to the abbey of Lesnes, in Kent : after the dissolution it was granted to Cardinal Wolsey, and after his fall it passed to various proprietors. RAMSDEN CRAY, a small village in Essex, 25 miles from London, and 9 miles from Brentwood. The church is a small ancient building, with a belfry and spire : within half a mile of it is Tyle Hall, the property of J. B. Batard, Esq. 480 RATCLirFE. RATCLIFFE, a populous hamlet in Middlesex, about half a mile east of the Tower of London, situate near the Thames. In this hamlet, 455 houses, with 36 warehouses, were destroyed by a dreadful tire, on the 23rd of July, 1794. The fire broke out at Cock hill, and in its progress consumed more houses than any one conflagration since the great fire of London, in 1666. It was occasioned by the boiling over of a pitch-ketlle, at a boat-builder's, from whose warehouses, which were speedily consumed, the flames spread to a barge, laden with saltpetre and other stores, and thence communicated to several vessels and small craft. The blowing up of the saltpetre in the barge, carried the flames to the saltpetre warehouses of the East India Companj^, from which they spread with immense rapidity, in consequence of the different explosions of the saltpetre, vi'hich blew up with sounds resembling the rolling of subterraneous thunder, and threw large flakes of fire upon all the adjacent buildings. The wind directed the flames to Ratcliff'e High-street, which being narrow, took fire on both sides ; and, as very little water could be procured for some hours, the engines could offer no effectual check. The premises of a timber merchant in London-street added greatly to the strength of the conflagration, and Butcher- row was almost wholly consumed. During the night, the devastation on the side of Limehouse was stopped ; but towards Stepney, almost every building in the line of the fire was destroyed, till, having reached an open space, where all connexion was broken off, the flames ceased for want of materials. By this accident several hundred families were deprived of their all, and thrown on the public benevolence. In this distress, government sent one hundred and fifty tents from the Tower, which were pitched in an inclosed piece of ground adjoining to Stepney church -yard, for the reception of the sufferers, and for some time provisions were dis- tributed among them from the vestry. A subscription was also opened for their relief at Lloyd's coflfee-house j and RED— REG. 4S1 some of the gentlemen of the neighbourhood attended at the leading avenues, for the purpose of soliciting the benevolent assistance of those whom curiosity might induce to visit the desolated scene where the fire had raged. The collection from the visitants on the Sunday following, amounted to more than 800/., 426Z. of which were in copper, and 38/. 145. in farthings ! The total sum collected on this occasion was upwards of 16,000/. RED HOUSE, (The) Battersea-fields, Surrey, a river- side public-house, with tea-gardens and other grounds, visited occasionally by some gentlemen, for pigeon and sparrow-shooting, and other matches, but more constantly a resort for the tag-rag of the metropolis, to view sailing and rowing matches, to drink and smoke. Sundays and holidays are jubilees here, and Saint Monday is religiously observed. There are, however, some rooms for the accommodation of genteeler visitors. REGENT'S CANAL. — A canal for extending the conveniency of water-carriage round the north of London, was projected in the middle of the last century, but not commenced. The opportunity afforded, however, by the Paddington branch of the Grand Junction Canal, again excited the idea, and the plan of the Regent's Canal was designed by Mr. Nash, for the purpose of extending the line of water communication from Paddington to the Thames, at Limehouse. The company were empowered, by the original act, to raise 400,000/. by proprietors' shares of 100/. each. After proceeding a short distance from the Paddington canal, by which its waters are sup- plied, this canal is conducted by a subterranean turmel under Maida Hill, and is continued in a semicircular direction, round the northern side of the Regent's Park, near the eastern extremity of which, a side-cut branches off towards the New Road, across the Hampstead Road, under a bridge (near which some locks are constructed on a plan of Sir William Congreve's), by a devious course, through the parish of Pancras, towards Islington, under T T 482 regent's park* which village it is carried through a second subterranean passage, which commences near White Conduit House, and terminates on the east side of the New River, below Colebrooke-row. See Islington. At this point the canal is continued through Shoreditch, Hackney, and Bethnal Green, across the Mile-end Road to Limehouse. REGENT'S PARK, (The) contains about 450 acres of ground, which originally formed a portion of an exten- sive tract in Marylebone parish, connected with a small palace* which stood near the northern extremity of Totten- ham Court Road, near the spot now occupied by the reservoir of the Hampstead Water- Works. This ground, formerly called Marylebone Fields, was rented, under a lease from the Crown, by the Duke of Portland ; on the expiry of which lease, in 1811, a plan was proposed by Mr. Nash, for the formation of a park, to be laid out in a style differing essentially from other public parks, and to be partly occupied by detached villas. With this design was connected the grand improvement of making an almost direct communication between Carlton Palace (then occu- pied by the Prince Regent) and the proposed new park. How completely this latter object has been accomplished, Langham-place, Regent-street, Waterloo- place, and Carl- ton-terrace, (occupying the site of the palace, and now opening without impediment into St. James's Park) amply and proudly attest. Mr. Nash's plan having been approved by the Prince Regent, and the necessary sanction and aid of parliament obtained, these important alterations were commenced in 1814. The grounds being naturally almost circular, the park was laid out in that form , two circles for public use, adapted equally for rides or promenades, were made ; one called the Outer, and the other the Inner Circle, com- * This Palace was the occasional residence of royalty, and in Queen Elizabeth's time, its park was well stocked with game. It was disparked by Cromwell, and the lands were, from that time, leased by the Crown to different parties. REGENT^S PARK. 483 municating- with each other by connecting branches. A considerable portion of the remainder of the ground was arranged ornamentally, and adorned with shrubberies and plantations ; and, from the Regent's Canal, which more than half encircles the northern side, a serpentine stream was conducted through the grounds to the south sid«, expanding in different parts, and contributing greatly to the relief and beauty of the scenery. This part, formerly inclosed, is now open to the public, from an early hour ia the morning till dusk ; a spacious gravel-walk, skirted on either side by trees (as yet of small size) with occasional openings which command views towards Hampstead ajad Highgat^, and several minor paths, have been formed ; seats and benches are placed at intervals for gratuitous use ; and the entire arrangements are such, as to render the opening of these " inclosures," as they w^ere before called, a rich boon to the residents of this part of London. The Regent's Park is bounded on the north by Hamp- stead, on the east by Camden Town, on the south by the New Road, and on the west by St. John's Wood Road. About two-thirds of it are in Marylebone parish, and the remainder in Pancras. The chief entrances to the park from the New^-road, are the gate facing Park-crescent, and the York-gate, opposite Marylebone new church. On entering the former, we find on our right, St, Aridrew's Place, and the east side of Park Square ; the former a row of genteel houses, eight in number, and each three stories high, with Doric columns at each end of the row, and Ionic columns to their basement stories ; the latter, being one row of two, not long completed, which, standing east and west of a tasteful plantation which has been many years attain- ing its present perfection, are called Park Square, and the plantations. Park Gardens, These houses have each three stories above their basement, and are decorated with Ionic pillars and some balustrades. Proceeding onward, past St. Andrew's Place, the Diorama 484 regent's park. first attracts notice ; and next, the Colosserm. Of both these exhibitions we have already spoken in our prelimin- ary account of London ; to which we may add, that the African Glen, at the Colosseum (charge 1*.), is well worthy the attention of the curious. Continuing in the route of the Outer Circle, we next reach Cambridge Terrace, formed of about a dozen houses, (with centre and two wings) adorned with fanciful porti- coes, and supported by rusticated columns. Contiguous, is Chester Terrace, consisting of about thirty houses, with Corinthian columns, entered at each end by a Corinthian arch. Here is a small but convenient gate, called Chester Gale, communicating with Osnaburg- street. Connected with this terrace is Chester Place, a row of genteel residences, communicating with Cumberland Terrace, a long, and highly ornamented range of houses, built from designs by Mr. Nash (as was also Chester Ter- race). This terrace, which is considerably elevated, has a spacious carriage road in front, round a choicely-planted garden. From the principal compartments of the ground- story rise Doric columns, on the balustrade, supported by which are allegorical figures of the Seasons, and other devices. On the pediment of the central compartment, is a sculpture in basso relievo (by Bubb) of Fame crowning Britannia, who sits on a throne, with Wisdom and Valour at her feet. On one side stand Literature, Genius, Prudence, Agriculture, and Manufacture, presenting youths of various countries as aspirants after knowledge ; on the other is represented the Navy, with Victory, Commerce, and Freedom. Plenty, with her cornucopia, terminates the group at either side. This pediment is supported by a colonnade of twelve pillars ; and the wings of the terrace are connected with the centre by an arch, with four elegant Doric columns, surmounted by the Cumberland arms. The next object of attraction is the Collegiate Church regent's park. 485 ef St, Katherine, with its several attached buildings, called St. Katherineh HospitaL This range of buildings supplies a verj beautiful and interesting specimen of the modern Gothic or pointed style j they are built in the form of a quadrangle, at the east end of which stands the church, of white brick with a stone front, and with small wings to represent side aisles. The whole pile was built from designs by Mr, Poynter, a pupil of Mr. Nash, and was completed about the year 1830. The interior of the church is chaste and elegant ; the ceiling, the fine windows, east and west, the joinery, and the antiquities (brought from the old church in the Tower) — all add to the interest and beauty. A single gallery isat the west-end, where there is a fine organ, having three sets of keys in full compass, being five notes lower than that of St. Paul's, and remarkable for its unusual swell. It was made by Green, in 1778. Nearly half the sittings here are free, and these are scarcely distinguishable from the others. The pulpit is a curious piece of antiquity, lis panelling is covered with grotesque figures, and is divided into six compartments, each having a carved representation of some castle or other edifice. This pulpit was given to the society in 1621, by its then master, Sir Julius Caesar. It has an inscription round its sides, thus : Ezra, the scribe— stood upon a Pulpit of Wood, which HE HAD MADE FOR THE Preachen — Nchcmiah, viii. 4. On the north and south sides of the quadrangle are three houses (on each side) built of white brick, dressed with stone, after the style of the sixteenth century. There are other points worthy of notice in this pile of building, which our limits will not permit us to enlarge on ; suflSce it, that the general eff'ect is most interesting, and that the whole appears like the habitation of a small reb'gious com. munity. The establishment consists of a Visitor, the Queen ; a Master, Lieut.-General Sir Herbert Taylor, K.C.B. ; three Brethren in priest's orders, the Rev. G. F. N. Nicolay, M.A.jthc Rev. K. W. Baxter. B. J). ; and 486 regent's park. the Rev. JoLn Wigbtman, M.A. ; a Commissary, William Battine, D.C.L. ; BaililF, Receiver, and Cbapter-Clerk, Mr. John Seeker ; and three Lay-sisters, who are required to be single women, Miss Wilhelmina Forbes, Miss Mary Howard, and Miss Emily Wynyard. There are besides ten bedeswomen, and some others, who have small annuities. This college was erected in its present agreeable situa- tion, on account of the pulling down of the old establish- ment, to make way for SU Katherine's Docks. The original foundation was by Matilda, Queen of King Stephen, in 1148 ; which, being dissolved in 1272, was refounded in the succeeding year by Eleanor of Provence, Queen of Henry HI. The hospital, at the time of each foundation, was dedicated to St. Katherine. On the opposite side of the road to the hospital stands the Master's house, which is in the same style of architecture as the others, but much larger and more highly finished. It has handsome stables, and about two acres of pleasure ground Gloucester Terrace next presents itself, having a centre and wings, ornamented with Ionic columns, and consisting of about a dozen houses, very eligibly situate. Immediately adjoining this terrace is the Gloucester Gate, leading to Camden Town, and to the North Road by Highgate, and the great Edinburgh Road by Tot- tenham. The gate is a neat structure of the Doric order. Directly opposite this gate is one of the en- trances to the inclosures, conducting at once to the pleasantest part ; but we must follow the route of the Outer Circle, which, at the end of about a quarter of a mile brings to the entrance-gates of the Zoological Gardens (on the left^. A synopsis, containing a particular account of every object to be seen in these gardens, may be pur- chased at the lodge for a shilling ; we must therefore be content to state, that the society to which they belong was founded in 1826 ; that the gardens contain a fine collection of animals of almost every description, most of them regent's park. 487 enjoying comjiarative liberty, and living, as far as possible, in a state of nature ; that the grounds are most attractively laid out, choicely planted, and highly cultivated ; and that admission may be obtained daily (except on Sundays) from 10 o'clock a.m. till sunset, on payment of Is. each person, and the production of a director's ticket, which may always be procured on application at the York and Albany tavern, near the Gloucester Lodge. Pursuing our road, we find on the right a bridge over the Regent's canal. It is called Macclesfield Bridge y and consists of three arches, with cast iron pillars. On each side of the balustrade are the Macclesfield-arms, on plates of iron. The bridge conducts to roads leading to Primrose- hill and Hampstead ; but the works of the new London and Birmingham rail-road have made awful havoc in the fields here. The next remarkable object is the Marquess of Hertford's Villay on the left, designed by the late Mr. Decimus Burton, and deemed a tasteful specimen of the villa style. It is surrounded with shrubbery. At the west end is a canopy which covers a spacious room used for public breakfasts ; and in a recess near the entrance, are the two *• Giants" who were accustomed, for about 150 years, to strike the quarters of every hour of the day and night, on the top of St. Dunstan's (old) church, Fleet street. The noble Marquess gave 200/. for them. On the east side of the mansion are some elegant conservatories, and the grounds are most judiciously disposed. A little further, on the opposite side of the road, on an eminence, is Hanover Lodge, another handsome villa, square fronted, with a fine portico, the property and resi- dence of the Earl of Dundonald ; at the back of which, nearer St. John's Wood Road, may be seen Grove Mousey the ^illa of Greenhough, Esq., with two fronts, built after a design by Mr. D. Burton. The garden- front is parti- cularly elegant, with centre and wings, a noble portico. 488 REGENTS PARK. supported by four Ionic columns, »nd tlie wings having recesses, supported by short Doric columns, and decorated with figures. Continuing our tour of the Outer Circle, we pass a road on our right leading through Hanover Gate to the St. John's Wood Koad, and arrive at Hanover Terrace^ a handsome range of houses, built in the Italian style, from designs by Mr. Nash, with an ornamental shrubbery, and a good carriage-drive in their front, and their exterior highly ornamented with statues, and figures in relievo. We next reach Sussex Place, another range of elegant residences, about twenty in number, also designed by Mr. Nash, with centre and wings, whimsically ornamented with cupolas, minarets, and towers. The houses are dis- posed crescent-wise, with a tastefully arranged garden in front, and they command a very agreeable view over the southern portion of the park. Nearly opposite Sussex-place is an inclosure called the Promenade, to which none but subscribers, or the residents of the adjoining terraces who have keys, are admitted. Next in order comes Clarence Terrace, a range of twelve elegant houses, built from designs by the late Mr, D. Bur- ton, witli centre and projecting wings of the Corinthian order, connected by Ionic colonnades. Adjoining this teiTace is Clarence Gate, leading into Upper Baker- street ; after passing which we arrive at Cornwall Terrace, another range of about twenty houses, also designed by Mr. Bur- ton, and which formed the first terrace erected in this park. The architecture is of the Corinthian order. Nearly contiguous to Cornwall Terrace, is York Terrace, designed by Mr. Nasli, in the Graeco-Italian style, and separated from the road by a lawn. This terrace contains sixty-one handsome houses. Close against it is the York Gate, which leads into the New Road, directly opposite Marjdebone new church. Beyond York Gate i» Ulster Terrace, built exactly in TvEGent's park. 489 the same style as St. Andrew's Place, and adjoining the west side of Park Square, whence we set out ; thus com- pleting our tour of the principal or outer circle. There are two ways into the Inner Circle; one by a road facing Chester Terrace ; the other direct from the York Gate. We shall return, and take the latter. Having arrived at York Gate, our road lies across the bridge over the lake, in which are some curious waterfowl of many varieties, which are constantly on the look out for bits of cake and biscuit thrown into them from the bridge. The lake, it will be perceived, adds considerable beauty to the landscape. Quitting the bridge, we proceed towards the Inner Circle, on our road to which, we pass on our left a gate which leads to a handsome residence called South Villa^ the seat of W. H. Cooper, Esq., having a Doric portico, with rusticated pediment. After entering the circle, taking the left road, we shortly reach another villa, called the Holmes (late the residence of Burton, Esq., father of the architect) having an Ionic portico, and so situated that the lake fronts it. The garden-front has a very handsome bay-window, adorned with four columns, and the roof is covered with a cupola. Nearly opposite this attractive villa, which is on our left, are Jenkins's Nursery' grounds y in which are occasional exhibitions of flowers, and where, by permission of the proprietor, fancy- fairs have been several times holden for charitable pur- poses. In these grounds is a very pretty thatched cottage covered with ivy, which belongs to Mr. Jenkins. The next object is on our left again — St. John's Wood Lodge, the villa of the Marquess Wellesley. It is built in the Grecian style, with centre and two wings, from designs by Mr. Raffield, and is a mansion of much architectural beauty. Beyond what we have described, the Inner Circle boasts of no "lions," except that another villa is building (we know not for whom). It is more quiet, and therefore more rural, than the Outer Circle, and at several points com- 490 REIGATE. mands very pleasing views. The reader may now, at his discretion, complete his tour of this circle by returning to the York Gate ; or, we have conducted him to the point, where the road to Chester Terrace and Gate lies before him. There are several entrances to the newly-opened indo- sures. REIGATE, a market town in Surrey, (which, before the Reform Bill, was a borough, returning two members to parliament) 21 miles south from London, on the road to Brighton, standing on a rock of beautiful sand, unrivalled for its whiteness. Through part of this rock a tunnel was cut, some years since, which saves a considerable distance, and avoids a very steep hill. The town has a remarkably neat and chaste appearance : it consists chiefly of two streets, the principal of which, called Hdgh-street, runs east and west, and the other called Bell-street, north and south. The weekly market is held, on Tuesdays, and is well supplied ; in addition to which there is a monthly one, on the first Wednesday in every month. The church is at the west end of the town, and is of squared chalk or limestone. It has two aisles, and an em- battled tower of stone, with eight bells. On the north of the chancel is an additional building of brick-w^ork for a vestry, built by John Skinner, Esq., in 1813, with a library over it, for the use of the parish and neighbour- hood. In the ehurch are several costly monuments — one for Richard Ladbroke, Esq., died 1730 ; one for Sir Thomas Bludder, Knt., and his lady, died 1618, within a week of each other ; several of the family of Thurland, one of whom was baron of the Exchequer, temp. Charles II. On white marble in tlie form of a heart, against the south wall of the chancel, is this inscription : — *' Near this place lieth Edward Bird, Esq., died the 23rd of February, 1719. His age twenty-six." Over it is a half-length bust, in white marble, of a man in armour, with a full flowing wig, a truncheon in bis right hand, and various warlike REIGATE. 491 instruments in the back-ground. IVIr. Bird was a lieutenant in the Marquess of Winchester's regiment of horse ; and, in September, 1718, had the misfortune to kill a waiter at a bagnio in Golden-square. He was tried in January fol- lowing, convicted of the murder, and hanged. His monu- ment originally had a further inscription, censuring the conduct of the judge and jury, which was afterwards obliterated. Under the chancel is a vault belonging to the manor of the priory, and made by Lord Howard of Effingham, the first granter of that estate, in which are buried many of his family. On the left side of the leaden coffin of the first Earl of Nottingham is the following inscription, engraved in capitals :— " Heare lyeth the body of Charles Howarde, Earle of Nottinghame, Lorde High Admyrall of Englande, Generall of Queen Elizabeth's Navy Royall att sea, against the Spanyard's invinsable Navy, in the yeare of our Lorde 1588; whoe departed this life at Haling Hows the 14 daye of December, in ye year of our Lorde, 1624, iEtatis suae, 87." The market-house, which is also the town-hall, is a small brick-building, erected about the year 1708, on the site of a chapel, dedicated to Thomas a Becket, which had previously been appropriated to the same uses. A smaller building contiguous to it, denominated the clock- house, was designed as a prison for felons and others, who are brought to the Easter sessions held at Reigate. At the southern extremity of the town is the Priory, an elegant modern mansion, consisting of a centre and wings, the property of Earl Somers, and the seat of his son, Viscount Eastnor. It stands on the site of a priory of Augustine monks, founded in 1240. This seat has about 70 acres of ground attached to it, and the interior of the mansion is handsomely fitted up, and contains a small collection of paintings. Reigate Lodge is the resi- dence of — Slater, Esq. 492 ricihng's L0DG£. On the north side of this town was formerly a castle, one of the chief seats of the Earls of Warren and Surrey. No vestige of it now remains. Its site is the property of the Somers family. The site of the keep is an artificial mound of earth, surrounded by a ditch of considerable breadth and depth on the south and west sides. On the summit of the hill, which contains an area of one acre, 38 poles, and forms a lawn of very fine turf, is erected a summer apartment in a taste corresponding with the design of the original erection ; and, on the east side, without the ditch, is a gateway of stone in the ancient style, erected in 1777, by Mr, Richard Barnes, attorney, who then occupied the premises. In the centre of the area is the entrance by a flight of steps, covered with a small building of a pyramidal form, to the depth of 18 feet, and then regularly, without steps, 26 feet more, and the whole length 235 feet, into a cave or room 123 feet long, 13 wide, and 11 high, to the crown of the arch : in one part of which is a crypt, near 50 yards in length, with a seat of stone at the end, which extended the whole length of the room on both sides. This cave, probably, served its lords both as a repository for their treasures and military stores, and a place of safe custody for their prisoners. In this cave, the barons who took up arms against King John are supposed to have had their private meetings. The arch, which is thought to have formed a private com- munication with the town, is broken, and the cavity stopped up. Reigate is surrounded by very beautiful scenery, espe- cially from the hill. RICHING'S LODGE, 1^ mile N.E.fromColnbrook, in Bucks, the seat of the Right Hon. John Sullivan, stands on the site of Percy Lodge, formerly the residence of Frances, Countess of Hertford, afterwards Duchess of Somerset, the Cleora of Mrs. Rowe, and the Patroness, whom Thomson invokes in his Spring." RiCHMOJiD. 493 RICHMOND, a village in Surrey, 9 miles from Hyde Park Corner, on the banks of the Thames, highly cele- brated for its beautiful situation and delightful scenery. It received its present name by command of King Hemy VII., who v^^as Earl of Richmond in Yorkshire. It had previously been called Syenes, Schenes, Schene, and Sheen, the derivation and signification of which are uncertain. The village consists of one long street, with many smaller ones branching from it. It contains many very excellent houses and shops. Many families of distinction reside here throughout the year, and in the summer season it is a place of great resort for all classes. The manor-house (on the Green) was for many cen- turies a royal palace. Its site is now occupied by several houses, held by lease under the crown, and no vestige of the palace remains, except a single archway, which formed one of its entrances. In this palace Edward I. and II. are known to have resided ; Edward III- closed his long and prosperous reign here, A.D. 1377 ; Anne, his successor's consort, died here, 1394 ; Richard II. was so much affected at her death, that the palace was aban- doned and partly thrown down j Henry V. restored and occasionally inhabited it ; Henry VII. held a grand tournament here in 1492, when Sir James Parker was killed ; during this reign, in 1499, the greater part of the palace was accidentally burnt, but immediately rebuilt. The same year a new gallery fell down, in which the king and the prince his son had been walking only a few minutes before. Philip I., of Spain, was entertained here, in 1506. Henry VII. died here, 1509. Henry Ylll. kept his Christmas at Richmond, 1510, and held a tournament here in January following, taking a part in the martial exercises. When Wolsey gave up Hampton Court to the king, he obtained permission to reside in Richmond Palace, and, on one occasion, kept his Christmas here, u u 494 RICHMOND. During the reign of Mary, Queen Elizabeth was for a short time imprisoned here, and on her ascending the throne, this palace became one of her favourite residences. In her reign, Eric IV., King of Sweden, was lodged here, and it was here that Bishop Rudd so much displeased her majesty by personal allusions, in preaching on the infirmi- ties of age. Queen Elizabeth died here, 1603. In the autumn of the same year, the courts of law were removed to Richmond, on account of the plague. Henry Prince of Wales resided at this palace, in 1605. Charles I. is supposed to have been frequently at this palace, where he formed a large collection of pictures. In 1636, a masque was performed by Lord Buckhurst and Edward Sackville before the king and queen, at Rich- mond. When the king was in Scotland, in 1641, the parliament ordered that the young prince (afterwards Charles II.) should be sent with his governor, Bishop Duppa, to be educated at Richmond. In 1647, the palace of Richmond was prepared, by order of parlia- ment, for the reception of the king, but he refused to go there. An old newspaper of the 29th of August, 1647, mentions that the prince elector was at Richmond, and that his majesty, with the Duke of York and the lords, hunted in the new park, killing a stag and a buck ; adding, that the king was very cheerful, and afterwards dined with his children at Syon. On the site of this abode of royalty is a house of the late Duke of Queensberry, built by the third Earl of Cholmondeley, in 1708, and therefore called Cholmondeley House. The hall of this house was decorated by the tapestry which hung behind the Earl of Clarendon in the Court of Chancery, and in the gallery was a fine collection of paintings. Another house, called Nort?iampto?L House, was formerly occupied by the Countess-dowager of North- ampton, and was recently the seat of Lady Sullivan. Other houses here are occupied by Sir D. Dundas, — RICHMOND. 496 Julius, Esq., — Ward, Esq., and — Harris, Esq. In tlie garden of Mr. Julius is a venerable yew-tree, the cir- cumference of the trunk of which is ten feet three inches. There were anciently two convents at Richmond, of which no remains now exist. In the reign of Henry YIII., there were two parks, which were soon afterwards joined together. The new or great park, being 8 miles in cir- cumference, and containing 2,253 acres, was made by Charles I. The great lodge was built by Sir Robert Walpole, at the expense of 14,000/., when he was ranger, in the reigns of George I. and II. The stone -lodge was built by George I., after a design by the Earl of Pem> broke. In 17^68, a very commodious observatory was erected near the park by his late Majesty George III., and furnished with all kinds of astronomical instruments, on the most extensive scale. On the top of the building is a moveable dome, which contains an equatorial instru- ment. Here are, also, a collection of subjects in natural history, an excellent apparatus for philosophical experi- ments, some models, and a collection of ores. The grounds of the old park were laid out in avenues, by Bridgman, but were altered into their present form by the celebrated Brown. The banks along the margin of the Thames are judiciously varied, forming a noble terrace, which extends the whole length of the gardens ; in the south-eastern quarter of which a road leads to a sequestered spot, in which is a cottage, a favourite retreat of the late Queen Charlotte. The Old LodgCy in the park, built by Sir Robert Wal- pole, is a brick edifice of some elegance, advantageously situate for a view of the park. Lord Walpole, son of Sir Robert, resided here, and after his decease, the Princess Amelia. The 'New or White Lodge is a beautiful mansion, given, by George III., to Viscount Sidmouth. It is situate on an eminence, with a vista of lofty trees in front, denominated the Queen's Walk, and a fine sheet of water adjoining. ^ i96 RICHMOND. Richmo7)d Green, surrounded by lofty elms, lies at the bottom of the town, and forms a parallelogram, almost as large as Lincoln's-inn-fields. Here, in the summer season, matches at cricket, and the game of bowls, are frequently played by the inhabitants and neighbours. One side of the green forms a noble walk, commonly called the High Walk, parted by a slight iron fence, and kept in good order. Here is a neat theatre, for dramatic entertainments in the summer season. Mrs. Jordan frequently performed here, and more recently the celebrated Kean. Here are, also, many almshouses ; some founded in the reigns of Elizabeth and Charles II. Richmond Bridge, which is of stone> and consists of five semicircular arches, was erected in 1777, from the design of Mr. Paine, at an expense of 26,000/. Richmond Hill, which has formed the subject of many a poet's eulogy, commands in truth a most luxuriant pros- pect. The poet Thomson, who resided at Richmond, cele- brates its beauties in his well-known lines, commencing " Say, shall we ascend Thy hill, delightful Sheen ?" And concludes by exclaiming, ** Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around. Of hills and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires. And glitt'ring towns, and gilded streams, till all The stretching landscape into smoke decays." The Terrace, which is always kept in the neatest order, affords a charming promenade, and is every evening crowded with genteel company. At the foot of the hill, near the Thames, is the elegant seat of the Duke of Buccleugh and Queensberry. The lawn (on which have been given frequent fetes champetre) reaches to the river side, and thence is a subterranean communication with pleasure-grounds, situate on the opposite side of the high road, extending almost to the RICHMOND. 497 gummit of the hill. On Richmond-hill are, also, many other superb residences — the Marquess of Lansdowne's, Earl of Mount Edgecombe's, Lady Morehead's, Hon. Mr. Greville's, and numerous others. In short, the village is surrounded by villas of noble and genteel families. On the Middlesex shore, to the left of the bridge, is an elegant white mansion, the seat of — Bevan, Esq., and thence to Twickenham (whither it is a most delightful walk through the meadows by the river side) are several superb villas, one of which was formerly the seat of the Duchess Dowager of Buccleugh. Immediately at the foot of the bridge, on this side of the river, are several newly-erected and very attractive villas, in very neat and genteel style, at the road side, and leading out of the road to the right, is a new road, called Park Road, formed within these seven years, and studded with tasteful cottage re- sidences. Richmond church is a fabric best distinguished by the term respectable. It consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, with a low embattled tower, at the west-end, of white stone and flint, and having eight bells. It was formerly a chapel of ease to Kingston, but made a parish church in 1658. In 1750 it was much repaired and en- larged, and since that time it has been essentially im- proved at a heavy expense. In the chancel, nave, and aisles, are numerous monuments j and in the church- yard are abundance of head-stones, with curious inscrip- tions. Here, among other eminent persons, lie buried Henry Viscount Brouncker,cofFerer to Charles II., who died in 1688 ; Mrs. M. A. Yates, the celebrated actress, 1787 ; Robert Lewis, Esq., a barrister-at-law, whose epitaph, in Latin, quaintly observes, " He was so great a lover of peace, that when a contention began between life and death, he immediately gave up the ghost to end the dispute and James Thomson, the author of the Seasons," who was interred at the west-end of the north aisles. There was nothing to point out the spot of his intement, till a brass u u 3 498 RICHMOND. tablet, with the following inscription, was put up by the late Earl of Buchan : — *' In- the earth below this tablet are the remains of James Thomson, author of the beautiful poems, entitled The Seasons," ** The Castle of Indo- lence,'' &c., who died at Richmond, on the 22nd August, and was buried there on the 29th, O. S., 1748, The Earl of Buchan, unwilling that so good a man and sweet a poet should be without a memorial, has denoted the place of his interment for the satisfaction of his admirers, in the year of our Lord, 1792." Underneath, is a quotation from Thomson's Winter." In the church-yard was buried the Kev^. Gilbert Wake- field, B.A,, the learned annotator on Lucretius," &c., who died in 1801, about 14 weeks after his enlargement from an imprisonment of two years in Dorchester Gaol, for publishing his *' Reply" to the Bishop of LlandafF's Address to the People of England." The Rev. George, and the Rev. Thomas Wakefield, are also interred here. The celebrated political writer, J. Mallet Du Pan, and Dr. John Moore, author of " Zeluco," and other admired works, the father of the brave and lamented Sir John Moore, the hero of Corunna, were also interred in this cemetery, and Mr. Kean, the eminent tragedian, was a few years since added to the list of illustrious persons who here sleep their last sleep." A new chapel, in the pointed style, has lately been built here, from designs by Vulliamy. The residence of James Thomson, the poet of the Seasons," was in Kew Foot Lane, and, after his death, being purchased by George Ross, Esq., was called Ross- dale House, Mr. Ross enlarged and improved it, at a heavy expense. It afterwards came into the possession of the Hon. Mrs. Boscawen, widow of Admiral Boscawen, who here ended her days. That lady held the place in great veneration, and evinced her respect for the poet*s memory by adorning the house with numerous inscrip- tions in his praise. By her son. Lord Falmouth, it was IIIC RIP. 499 afterwards sold to the Earl of Shaftesbury. It is now the residence of the Countess of Shaftesbury, and maintained by her ladyship with care and pride. Here are many memorials of the poet : the bed-room in which he died ; his favourite sitting-room, where are carefully pre- served two brass hooks, on which he hung his hat and cane; the table on which he wrote; an alcove in the garden, in which he often sat while composing his " Sea- sons ;" and a larger summer-house, containing a table on M'hich the poet is said to have finished his Seasons." At Richmond are two ferries across the river to Isle- worth and Brentford. The celebrated Bishop Duppa resided at Richmond, in close retirement, and founded some almshouses here, during the civil w^ars and the subsequent exile of Charles II. Sir William Temple was also a resident here. His house, since called Temple Grove, is now a boys'- school. Here Swift became acquainted with the beautiful and accomplished Stella, who was daughter of Sir William Temple's steward, and born here. Sir Isaac Newton occupied, for some time, a house on Richmond Hill. Many of the inns in this village are elegant, as well as commodious. The most conspicuous are the Star and Garter, and the Castle, which are more like mansions than taverns. RICKMANSWORTH, a market town in Herts, 18 miles N.W. from London, situate on the Calne. The Grand Junction Canal adjoins the town ; and several manufactories have been established here, particularly a silk-mill, which is an object worthy of curiosity. On the rivulet, that flows hither from Chesham, are several flour, cotton, and paper-mills. In this neighbourhood is a warren-hill, where the sound of the trumpet is repeated 12 times by the echo ! Near the church (wherein Henry Cary, Earl of Monmouth, lies buried), is the Bury, the seat of M. Wiggins, Esq. RIPLEY, a hamlet of the parish of Send, Surrey, 23 500 RIV — 110£. miles south from London, having a chapel of ease, appa- rently of the date of Henry III., which contains a few monuments. It is an exceedingly pretty village. On the Greerif still famous for cricket-matches, and anciently much more so, is Dunsborough House j the Rev. G. W. Onslow. RI VEUHEAD, a hamlet of Sevenoaks, Kent, so called from the Darent having its source in this parish, is situated in the celebrated valley of Holmesdale, which gives the title of Baron Holmesdale to Lord Amherst. — See Montreal, RODING BEAUCHAMP, a parish in Essex, distant from Ongar 5 miles, and from London 22. The church stands on an elevation, whence a most delightful prospect is seen in eveiy direction. There are eight parishes in Essex of the name of lloding, but this is the only one within our limits. ROEHAMPTON, a delightful village, (being a hamlet to Putney) situate at the western extremity of Putney Heath, and adorned with many elegant mansions and villa residences. Roehampton Grove, formerly the seat of Thomas Fitz- herbert, Esq., but now of Bennett Gosling, Esq , is situated on part of the ancient royal park of Putney, which no longer exists. The fee-simple of this park was granted by Charles I. to Sir Richard Weston, afterwards Earl of Port- land, whose son alienated both the house and the park. They were afterwards the residence of Christian, Countess of Devonshire, whose family sold this estate in 1689 ; after which it came into the hands of different proprietors, till it was purchased by Sir Joshua Vanneck, afterwards Lord Huntingfield, who pulled down the old mansion, 9nd built the present elegant villa, after a design by Wyatt. He also formed, at the termination of the lawn, a fine piece of water, which is supplied by pipes from a conduit on Putney -common. On the acquisition of his brother's estate, Lord Huntingfield sold Roehampton Grove to Mr. ROMFORD. 501 Fitzherbert, who likewise expended great sums in im- provements. The principal front commands a view of Epsom Downs in the distance ; and Richmond Park ap- proaches so near, that it seems to belong to the grounds, and gives an air of sylvan wildness to the whole. The prospect to the north charms the eye with variety ; at the termination of the lawn is the piece of water before-men- tioned ; and beyond this, the Thames is seen, at high water, winding through a well- wooded valley, from which a rich display of cultivated country, adorned with vil- lages and seats, rises to Harrow and the adjacent parts of Middlesex. Roehampton House, late the residence of Count Munster, was built, about 1710, by Thomas Carey, Esq. It after- wards became the property of — Duncan, Esq., and was, for some time, occupied by the Earl of Albemarle. The saloon was painted by Sir James Thornhill, and is still in good preservation. On the ceiling is represented the feast of the Gods. The beauty of the scenery, and the proximity of Rich- mond Park, have caused many other villas to be erected at Roehampton. ROMFORD, in Essex, 11 1 miles from London, on the high road to Norwich, Yarmouth, &c., is a well-built con- venient town, and a great thoroughfare. It has three markets weekly, an annual cattle fair, and a statute fair for hiring servants. This town, which, with Hornchurch and Havering-atte-Bower, constitutes the liberty of Havering, was first chartered by Edward the Confessor ; its government being vested in a high steward, a deputy steward, and one justice, with magisterial and corporate authorities, and having power, by patent, to try for all offences, high treason not excepted, and to sentence and execute offenders, on payment of a trifling fee to the crown — a privilege which has not for some years been exercised, and which now, since the Corporation Reform Act, is, we presume, a dead letter. It is stated, how- 502 ROMFORD. ever, that the tenants of the liberty of which Romford forms part, still, by virtue of certain patent rights, claim exemption from toll throughout the realm, for cattle sold, and provisions sold or purchased, from county-rates, from being summoned on inquests and juries beyond their liberty, with various other immunities, such as not ac- knowledging the jurisdiction of the county magistrates — circumstances curious, if true. Romford, according to Lysons, takes its name from the Saxon ro?n, broad, and ford ; but Dr. Stukeley and others consider the word to be a contraction of Romanford, and assign to this place the Roman station Derolitum. Au ancient ford, across a stream which flows through the west side of the tow^n, supports Mr. Lysons' etymology. The church, w^hich is a chapel of ease to Hornchur, been possessed by the family of Evelyn for nearly three centuries. The celebrated John Evelyn was born here, and it was afterwards his favourite residence until he went to Say^s Court, Deptford. It is now the seat of the widow of one of his descendants. The church of this parish is situated on a knoll in the valley, and contains several monuments to the noble family of Rothes, the Steeres's of Ockley, and the Evelyns. There are some neat monu- ments in the church-yard. Around Wotton are several attractive seats, especially the Rookei-y, R. Fuller, Esq., and Tenshurst, once the residence of the lamented Sir Saml. Romilly. WRAYSBURY, or WYRARDSBURY, a parish in Stoke hundred, Bucks, two and a half miles from Staines, and eighteen and a half from London, comprehending Charter Island, where, according to local tradition. Magna Charta was signed. See Runnymede, WROTHAM, a town in Kent, (which formerly had a market, now discontinued), twenty-four miles and a half south from London, has a large church, in which are sixteen stalls, supposed to have been made for the clergy who at- tended the Archbishops of Canterbury, to whom the manor formerly belonged ; and who had a palace here, till Arch- bishop Islip, in the fourteenth century, pulled it down, and G G G 3 618 YOU — ZOO. built another at Maidstone. Several pieces of antiquity have been dug up here, particularly some military weapons. Wrotham Hill, just above the church, has a very extensive prospect over the weald of Kent. WROTHAM PARK, in the parish of South Mimms, Middlesex, is the seat of George Byng, Esq., M.P. for Middlesex. The house was built by his great-uncle. Admiral John Byng, *'who, to the perpetual disgrace of public justice," says Burke, '* fell a martyr to political persecution, on March I4th, 1757 ; when bravery and loyalty were insuf- ficient securities for the life and honour of a naval officer." It is principally of brick, with stone porticoes and dressings: the principal front is towards the west, which commands a pleasing view over some of the richest parts of Herts and Middlesex. The interior comprises a noble suite of apart- ments, ornamented with numerous valuable pictures; among which are, a Holy Family, by Murillo ; the incredulity of St. Thomas, by Caravaggio; landscape, with figures, Do- menichino; two portraits, Vandyke; and head of Oliver Cromwell, by Walker. The park comprises about 250 acres, is well wooded, and abounds with fine natural slopes and undulations. YOUNG SBURY, an attractive seat in Herts, near Wade's Mill, 2| miles from \yare, is the property of B. King, Esq. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS (Regent's Park). 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