;z~j Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://www.archive.org/details/traveltipsontravOOrudd / TRAVEL TIPS on Travel Trips Containing Seventeen Hundred Interesting, Classified Questions on Travel Answered in The Burton Holmes Travelogues Compiled by LILIAN S. RUDDICK 1920 THE BURTON HOLMES TRAVELOGUE BUREAU CHICAGO Copyrigiit : 1920: Hanson-Roach-Fowleh Company TABLE OF CONTENTS The World Wonderful PAGE Morocco i Algeria and Southern Spain 8 Egypt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 21 Round About Paris, Oberammekc.au and Corsica 32 Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland 50 Down the Amur; Peking and the Forbidden City 66 Japan and Korea 74 Edge of China, Manila and the Hawaiian Islands 84 Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canon of Arizona and Moki Land 92 South America 101 Geographical Settings Algeria and Southern Spain 9 ( rREECE I 5 Egypt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 23 Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland 52 St. Petersburg, Moscow and the Trans-Siberian Rail- way 59 Down the Amur, and Peking 67 Korea and Japan 75 Edge of China, Manila and the Hawaiian Islands 85 South America 102 Manners and Customs Morocco 1 Algeria and Southern Spain 11 Greece 16 Egypt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 24 Paris, Op.era.m mercau and Corsica , . 33 TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE London, Paris and Berlin 41 Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland 52 Russia 6 r 1 )own the Amur and ix Peking 67 Korea and Japan yj Edge of China, Manila and the Hawaiian Islands 86 In Moki Land 98 South America 101 Education and Religion Morocco 3 Algeria and Southern Spain 12 Greece 18 Egypt and Southern Italy 26 Paris, Oberammergau and Corsica 36 London, Paris and Berlin 44 Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland 55 Russia 62 Peking 71 Korea and Japan 79 Edge of China, Manila and the 1 [awaiian Islands 89 Moki Land 99 South America 108 Architecture Morocco 5 Algeria and Southern Slain 10 Gri ece 17 Eggpt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 25 Paris, Oberammergau and Corsica 34 London, Paris and Berlin 42 Norway, Sweden and Denmark 53 Russia 60 Peking 69 Korea and Japan 76 Mok] Land 98 South America 107 TABLE OF CONTENTS Industrial Life PAGE Morocco 5 Algeria and Southern Spain 12 Egypt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 26 Paris, Oberammergau and Corsica 35 Norway, Sweden and Denmark 54 Korea and Japan 78 Edge of China, Manila and the Hawaiian Islands 87 Moki Land 99 South America 104 Art and Literature Greece 18 Egypt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 28 Paris, Oberammergau and Corsica 38 London, Paris and Berlin 45 Norway', Sweden, Denmark and Finland 56 Russia 62 Japan 81 History and Government Morocco 5 Algeria and Southern Spain 13 Greece 19 Egypt, Southern Italy and Switzerland 30 Paris, Oberammergau and Corsica 39 London, Paris and Berlin 48 Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland 56 Russia 64 Siberia and Peking J2 Korea and Japan 82 Edge of China and Hawaiian Islands 90 Moki Land 100 South America 105 TABLE OF i l INTENTS LIST OF MAPS PAGE Morocco 2 Algeria 9 1 hern Spain 10 ( rREECE 1 6 Egypt jj Si it] i iiKRX Italy 25 s\\ [tzerland 2q Paris and Vicinity 34 Germ any ^j Corsica 39 London (detail map) 41 Paris (detail map) 45 Berlin (detail map) 47 Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland 51 Russian Empire and the Trans-Siberian Railway 59 The Amur River 68 Peking (detail mat) 70 Japan and Korea j$ Hawaiian Islands 84 of China 86 Phillipine Islands 89 Yellowstone National Park 93 ( Jrand Canon of Arizona 95 Moki Land and Vicinity 99 Brazii d>3 [guassu Falls [05 Argentina and Chill 107 FOREWORD IT IS possible that someone else may have said — before I set it down myself — "To travel is to possess the world." The saying, therefore, may or may not be original, but with every passing year it seems more and more true. The verb "to possess " seems at first glance a selfish one. To heap up material possessions for ourselves is selfish ; to possess merely for the sake of possessing can give us but little pleasure and no genuine satisfaction. But in possessing the whole world through travel we rob the verb of every selfish sense. We take nothing from any man ; we diminish in no way another's possessions ; we become rich without wronging; we become affluent in appreciation; and with our increasing appreciation (the word "appreciation" really means perceiving the right values of all things) we magnify and dignify the better possessions of all with whom we come in contact. Thus, to travel is not merely a pleasurable pastime — it is a delightful duty that each of us owes to himself or to herself ; but the measure of travel, rightfully ours, must of course be measured by our means and our responsibilities. BURTON HOLMES. OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ONE " A traveler without observation is a bird without wings." The World Wonderful PAGE Where are the historic "Pillars of Hercules," and what are their modern names? 13 Around what inland sea are grouped the nations that have ruled the world in ages past? 14 Where do we find a famous land without any roads?. . . 14 What city is called the "White City of the Straits"? 30 What author describes Morocco as an "empire carpeted with flowers"? 106 Name some of the flowers that cover the valleys and hill- sides of this land of yesterday 107 In what empire does it seem as if almighty Allah had spread out a prayer-rug of unutterable beauty, woven by the divine loom ? 10S What African city, once one of the proudest and most splendid cities of the Moslem world, has fallen into decay so gently that it is not scarred, but beautified? Ill How is "Fez the new" so beautifully divided from "Fez the old"? 124-125 What flowers and fruits are found in the gardens of Fez? 146 Where is the "country of the setting sun"? 224 Where are the wild daisies so tall that the horses of the tourists seem to be lying down instead of toiling through a sea of flowers ? 291 What fortress of Morocco remains as an eloquent tribute to the vanished glory of Portugal ? 292 Manners and Customs What is the beverage of all the true worshipers of Allah? 29 Where is insanity a most valuable asset, and why? 35 What are the characteristics of the dress of the native Moroccan ? 36 1 2 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE In what country is it a popular form of curse to express the -wish that the wife of your great-grandfather may enjoy perpetual torridity in the nether world? 43 Why are the prisons of Morocco not provided with a means of egress? 52 What people believe that "whatever is, is right"? 85 What personage, the most revered of all Mohammedans, is, in their eyes, a greater and holier man than the Sultan of Turkey or the Sultan of Morocco? 88 MOROCCO ABUAM* •TARUDANT MOROCCO What city i-; so sacred, and its inhabitants so fanatical, that the tourist cannot enter its gates without a mili- tary escorl ? 89 What does the word "metropolis" mean when applied to a modern city? 115 How is the modern definition of the word "metropolis" changed when applied to the "metropolis" of the Moors? 117 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ONE 3 PAGE What is the attitude of the natives of Fez toward Christian visitors? 126-130-133 What is the prevailing style of dress worn by the women of Fez ? 134-135 In what African city are the streets so narrow that the pack-mules sometimes stick fast between the houses? 144 Why is it advisable that the foreigner sojourning in Fez secure a guard ? 153 Stroll with Mr. Holmes through the vault-like streets of Fez 1 54-1 56 Where is printed the daily paper that may be purchased in the metropolis of Morocco? 166 When did Mr. Holmes record a scene with his camera that he did not dare look upon? 182 Were there slaves in Morocco at the time of Mr. Holmes' visit? 187 In what country does the menu for a formal dinner consist entirely of meats? 190 Where is there a cemetery for the dead which is also a home for the living? 195 How has one writer very aptly described the "Mellah"? 199 Describe the solemn ceremony of tea-drinking as wit- nessed in Morroco 206-207 Which part of the dwelling-house of the Moors is sacred to the women ? 220 In what country do the "roads refuse to cross bridges," but keep to the old fords? 233 In what old city still stand three miles of stables, large enough for twelve thousand horses? 244 What ruler fed his pet lions with slaves and treated his forty cats better than he treated his children? 247 When was an architect deprived of his eyesight for desir- ing to surpass a previous achievement? 250 Where does a robber become an ideal host, answering for your safety with his life? 259 Education and Religion To what religion is due the present preservation of the Morocco of yesterday? 14 4 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE In what way does the Moroccan consider the pigtail as an agent of salvation ? 27 Quote several of the old Aral) maxims which, as gems of wisdom, arc applicable to all races? 28 The people of what religion are forbidden the use of intoxicating liquors? 29 Where is it considered a pious deed to curse and insult a Christian ? 40 How did a clever interpreter save a life by his translation of a romance from the Arabian Nights? 45 Describe the celebration of the great feast of Aid-el-Kebir, as witnessed by Mr. Holmes 46 For what festival are 120,000 sheep sacrificed in Mecca in one day ? 51 Where is the sacred city of Wazzan and why is it sacred? 87-89 Who is the nearest direct descendant of Mohammed and how is he regarded by the adherents of Mohammed- anism ? 88-89 What great city, called the heart of a nation, was mum- mified eight hundred years ago by the religion of Mohammed ? 117 What great book says that "Every painter is in hell-fire, and Allah will appoint a person at the day of resur- rection for every picture he shall have drawn, to punish him"? 153 May a stranger in Fez visit the many Mohammedan mosques ? 162 What is the greatest educational institution of Morocco? 168 What famous mathematical book.-- are said to be moldering in the inaccessible library of the "Karueein"? 168 In what way did the Moroccans of the twelfth century provide for the support and perpetuation of the "Karueein" ? 169 \\ h.it i- the basis of the teachings of the University of Fez ? 169 Who are the "tabeebas"? 169 How docs the map of the world used by the University of Fez illustrate the geographic point of view of the Mohammedan educator? 170 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ONE 5 PAGE Note illustration 169 Death by the imperial hand of what ruler insured imme- diate passport to a "beatitudinous eternity"? 247 From what Arabic word has the nautical term of "admiral" been derived ? 300 Architecture and Industry What is a Soko? 37 Why is the Soko considered the true frontier between the Christian and the Moslem worlds? 37 When was Morocco considered the granary of Europe? 87 Why do the Moorish authorities prohibit the exportation of grain ? 87 Where did a Sultan design a palace so large that the walls of the only room built now form an extensive public square ? 132 In what city is it sacrilegious to make any needed repairs on public buildings? 156 With what parts of the world does Fez have commercial relations? 218 What Moorish emperor made his people suffer that he might satisfy his mania for colossal masonry? 240 How does the Moorish wall surrounding Mequinez com- pare with the Roman aqueducts and the great wall of China? 240 Where, and for what purpose, did a Sultan of Morocco build an elevated boulevard two hundred miles in length ? 241 Why must each succeeding ruler of Morocco build him- self a new palace ? 243 Describe a "townless" market-place of the Moroccan plains 255 Describe the unique Moorish "skyscraper" of Rabat where Mr. Holmes was entertained 307 For what industry is the port of Rabat noted? 308 History and Government What rock, now the site of a great fortress, at one time marked the western limit of the ancient world? 14 6 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How did England first acquire a foothold for her Indian Empire ? 23 What city was disowned by its ruler because of improve- ments made by Christians? 24 In what country do foreign nations maintain and manage their own postoffice systems? 34 Where is the true frontier between the Christian and .Moslem worlds? 37 What is the one privilege granted by the government to the prisoners of Morocco? 52 In what part of Africa is there carefully preserved a docu- ment which was signed by George Washington?. ... 56 Give the translation of the Exequatur granted by the Sultan to the first United States consul in Morocco 56 Where is a "living passport" needed by every traveler?. . 62 In what army do the soldiers of today carry a lump of lead and a bullet mold for the purpose of providing them- selves with the necessary projectiles in case of attack? 62 How does the Moorish Sultan levy and collect taxes?. ... 78 At what city in Africa did Portugal receive the death blow of her greatness ? SO By what ruse did the late Shareef of Wazzan succeed to that dignity ? 95 What famous tribe of Arabs honored Mr. Holmes by per- forming "the powder play," a sort of glorified cavalry charge ? 99 How long does it take to travel by the fastest caravan from the southern to the northern extremities of Morocco ? 105 What do Moroccans think of the extent of their country? Is their opinion justifiable? 105 How long does it take to make the trip from Tangier to Fez? 121 Mow dors the Sultan of Morocco obtain money for the government's needs? 161 From what event do the Moors date their calendar? 162 Why do wealthy Jews in Morocco seek the position of consular agent for foreign nations? Io0-162 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ONE 7 PAGE To what ruler, contemporaneous with Louis XIV of France, was the drowning of a wife a pastime? 247 In the heart of what empire is located a hostile tribe so powerful that the Sultan with an escort of 30,000 men is compelled to take an indirect route through his own empire ? 273 Where are the three towers of "Yakub el Mansur" located ? 302 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWO " The use of travel is t,> regulate imagination by reality." The World Wonderful PAGE Describe the snowy-capped mountain chain of the Djurd- jura Atlas, where with Burton Holmes we spend an Easter Sunday in worshipful admiration of one of nature's most inspiring "scenic temples" 72 Study carefully the illustration of the Natural Bridge at Constantine 103 What river, at one time red with human blood, flows swiftly beneath this bridge? 101 How can the tourist now descend to the level of the ravine 500 feet below the streets of Constantine? 97 Compare the rugged promontory of Cape Carbon on the Barbary Coast with Britain's famous rock, Gibraltar.. 116 Describe the journey from the Mediterranean shore to the Sahara, as with Burton Holmes we view the Gorges of Chabet, the wonderful rock-bound passes through the Atlas mountains, and the fertile regions that con- nect the Atlas Chain with the Aures 118 What phenomenon in Algeria brings to mind the steam- ing geysers of the Yellowstone Park? 124 Where is the sun the absolute "sovereign of the soli- tudes," seeming to create illusions just to torment the traveler? 176 What celebrated rock, belonging to England and faith- fully guarding her possessions, stands like a grim sentinel at the entrance to sunny Spain? 233 Why did this rock once bear the name of Calpe, and from win mi d( >es it take its present appellation ? 229 Beginning with the time when Gibraltar was regarded as "one of the pillars of Hercules" follow its history d< iwn to the present 229 8 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWO PAGE Where do we find the most picturesquely situated city in southern Spain ? 246 Compare this city with the "cliff-perched" Constantine of Algeria 247 Geographical Settings What is the most direct route from America to the Bar- bary Coast ? 10 Give the boundaries of French Algeria, or, as it is often called, the "New African France" 65 Where are the Kabyle mountains, and for what are they noted ? 66 jj $ A N s & SCALE OF MILES 50 100 What city is separated from a neighboring plateau by a moat 500 feet in depth, overhung by titanic walls of rocks, the battlements of which are human dwellings ? 90 Where is the Africa of the roving Bedouin and the nomadic Arab ? 115 Where are the "Accursed Springs," and from what did they take their name? 125 What is the population of the Sahara desert? 221 What is the area of the Sahara? 222 Through the doorways of what nations must the traveler enter Spain ? 228 10 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Entering Spain through England's fortress, where do we first set foot on Spanish soil ? 236 Architecture What city of northern Africa, as it is approached from the harbor, lias the appearance of being cut from a block of spotless marble? 11 What does Burton Holmes say as to the architecture of this Oriental-Occidental city? 12-15 What country is indirectly responsible for the wealth of splendid construction to be found in Algiers? 12 Note the perfection in architectural design as portrayed in the illustration of the "Approach to the Boulevard". . 17 What is the general architectural design of the beautiful villas found in Algiers? 49 In what little hamlet is still preserved much of the grace and beauty of the old Arabic architecture? 54 How does the native of Algeria compare the structural work done by the Prophet's Followers with that of the ( Christian slaves and Jews ? 58 Note the huge square structure called the "Mansoura T< >wer," as sin >wn in illustratii »n 03 In the interior of what country do we find the "Pompeii of Africa," the ruins of which are buried beneath the sands of the desert instead of the ashes of Vesuvius? 126 ( )f what design and architecture are the beautiful cathe- dral and ( riralda tower at Seville? 270 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWO 11 PAG!-: Where do we find a similar unfinished structure? 270 State in a few words the difference between the Arabian and Spanish architecture of southern Spain 335 Manners and Customs How did the pirates of the Barbary coast treat the Chris- tian slaves that fell into their hands? 33 Who are the Kabyles? 70 What does Burton Holmes tell us of the marriage customs of the "Kabyles"? 76 How is the mother of a lusty Kabyle boy favored? 79 How does Mr. Holmes describe the dancing girls of Biskra ? 155 Why do the inhabitants of the Algerian Sahara migrate to the north each June, like the displacements of entire populations in ancient history? 174 What is the means of conveyance used by the Arabs in bringing into the Sahara desert the materials used for the construction of European buildings? 182 Describe the "optical telegraph" by which Mr. Holmes sent a message from the desert city of Touggourt to the United States 197 Where are grasshoppers served hot to traveling epicures? 200 Where is the town-barber also a physician? 206 What is the "barber-doctor's" universal remedy for all ills? 207 How are travelers often made passive participants in the smuggling of tobacco from a British port into Spain ? 240 What is the prevailing costume of the people of southern Spain ? 254 Recall the Spanish proverb descriptive of the sturdiness of the picturesque Spanish peasant of Ronda 255 How does one writer and lover of the Spanish people refer to the lack of educational advantages of south- ern Spain ? 266 What custom concerning the dress of the unmarried daughters of Seville might be advantageously adopted by American mothers? 277-279 12 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Read Burton Holmes' very complete description of the typical hull fights, as seen at Seville 298-318 In what country does the host invariably offer his guest the ownership of all his goods? 325 Industrial Life What does Burton Holmes say of the industrial life of the French colonists in the fertile valleys of the Bar- bary coast? 61-62 What is the main industry of the settlers along the slopes of the Kabyle mountains? 70 Where do we find oats sold by the handful, wheat dealt out in pinches, and men gaining a living by a daily commerce unworthy elsewhere the "time and labor of a fly"? 152 Give some idea of the endurance of the camel and what can be said of his commercial value, even after death.. 175 What product is termed "the wealth of the Sahara"?. . . . 183 What are the average length of life and the average pro- ductiveness of the date-palm of the Algerian Sahara? 189 What is the main industry of southern Spain? 271-272 Religion and Education What people were termed the "Scourge of Christen- dom"? 6 Where is the church of "Our Lady of Africa"? 11 Tell how the Christian priests sacrificed their own free- dom to minister to the slaves captured by the pirates along the coast of northern Africa 33 Were the cruelties and inhumanities practised by the Bar- bary corsairs upon their prisoners greater than those inflicted in contemporary times by Christian govern- ments? 37 What have the French schools meant to the Kabyle people? 82-83 What is the legend of the "Accursed Springs" of Algeria? 125 What is the Mohammedan law concerning photography? 208 What was formerly the religion of southern Spain? 271 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWO 13 PAGE What religion, through its superstitious belief, prevents fond parents from brushing away from the inflamed eyelids of their children the swarms of flies that cluster there ? 206 History and Government What state, today the chief colonial possession of the French Republic, was formerly the greatest of the pirate states of Barbary ? 5 What three countries participated in annihilating pirate rule along the Barbary coast? 9-10 In what way does the colonial city of Algiers remind us of Paris? 23 How does the colonial city differ from the "remains" of the real Algiers ? 24 From what Arabic word is the name Algiers derived, and what was its original interpretation ? 24 What act of a Turkish potentate precipitated a war that assured his own destruction and the welfare of his people ? 26 Under the government of what country were his people thus placed ? 29 Review briefly with Mr. Holmes the interesting story of the Barbary corsairs from the sixteenth to the nine- teenth century 29-30 What celebrated author was sold as a slave from an Algerian marketplace? 30 When did the Algerian pirates become so bold that they literally sacked the town of Baltimore, Ireland, and carried off more than 200 Irishmen ? 35 What people for more than 200 years exacted tribute money from the greatest nations of the world? 37 What was the annual cost to England for the treaty with Algeria which read "Liberty is granted to the Alger- ines to search British vessels and to take out all persons and goods not belonging to the British nation"? 38 14 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How much money was poured into the coffers of the dey of Algeria by the United States before defying his power in 1815? 41 What gallant commodore enforced the cry of the indig- nant Americans — "Millions for defense but not one penny for tribute," and compelled the dey of Algeria to sue for peace ? 42 What nation struck the final death blow to Christian slavery in Algeria ? 45 As an investment is Algeria profitable to the French gov- ernment ? 65 What has become of the people who inhabited the land of Barbary before the Romans, Vandals and Arabs swept o'er it? 66 How have the French engineers made possible the view- ing of the "glorious pages of Nature's wonderbook" through the Gorges of Chabet, and en route to the Algerian Sahara ? 123 What noted rock is the grandest link in the chain of for- tresses which binds to England her Oriental con- quests ? 228 I [< »w is this rock fortified? 233 Where is there a colony of savage apes of whose numbers the British authorities keep a careful record? 234 What great stronghold is defended by cannon wholly i iperated by electricity? 235 What is the "Guardia Civil" of Spain, and what does Mr. I [olmes say of the personnel of its men? 245 Where do we find entombed the bodies ^i Ferdinand and Isabella, the king and queen who were termed by Shakespeare "the wisest king that ever ruled in Spain" and the "queen of earthly queens"? 321 For how many centuries was southern Spain ruled by the Moors ? 336 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THREE "Land of lost gods and godlike men." Geographic Settings PAGE What is the shortest route to Greece from New York? 7 How does the commerce of Athens of today compare with that of ancient Athens? 118 Where is the island of Aegina, the home of the wealth and the enterprise of the old Greek world? 121 Where and what is the Peloponnesus? 124 What waters arc joined by the Corinthian Canal? 124 Have any steps been taken to uncover the ancient city of Corinth? 128 What buried city of Greece was once an "Empress of Commerce" ? 133 What can be said of the fertility and productiveness of the Vale of Sparta? 165-166 How does Mr. Holmes liken Greece to the Moorish Empire ? 186 Describe the interesting trip from the Corinthian Gulf to the monastery of 'Megaspeleon 200-210 What is the chief port of Thessaly and how is it reached from Athens? 230 Glide for a few hours over the Ba}^ of Salamis with Mr. Holmes and note its many points of interest. . . .230, 233 What vale in Thessaly is called the granary of Greece?. . 259 What far-famed wonders attract the tourist to Thessaly? 277 Study carefully the illustrations which so splendidly visu- alize the Meteora..261, 287, 291, 297, 318, 324, 325, 331 Are the Meteora monasteries easily accessible, one to another ? 290 How do geologists explain the nature-sculptured cliffs of Thessaly ? 306 Note the "broken-mountain" representative of the kneel- ing camel 316 15 16 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES Manners and Customs PAGE Are the native Athenians a home-loving people? 33 Of what ancient observance wore the first modern Olym- pian games a revival ? 45 GREECE SCALE OF MILES MT. OLYMPU5 ft METEORA .JYRNAVOS 1 ^, % • KALABAKA _„ V JANINA p 'LARIS! "I7JIKALA VOLOj^ w How was the season for the Olympian games determined? 47 i ite an instance i if the demi »cracy i >f the ( rreeks 140 Give the formula of an old prescription found at Epi- daurus 145 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THREE 17 PAGE When a Spartan boy won honors at the Olympian games, how was he rewarded by his own people ? 169 How did the Spartans regard the men who married un- wisely or not at all ? 170 How does Mr. Holmes describe a Grecian dance? 175 The revival of what ancient games celebrated the inde- pendence of Greece ? 228 Describe the foot-gear of the native of Thessaly 241 What is the uniform of the Greek army? 242 How does the tourist reach the monastery of the Holy Trinity from the base of its pyramid of rock? 294 What becomes of the wife of the Greek priest who is raised to the rank of bishop ? 300 Describe a Meteora elevator 316 Architecture Describe the old Athenian Stadium of three hundred years before Christ 58 Of what was the Stadium of five hundred years later com- posed? Has it been completely restored? 58-59 How did a polyglot guide explain the difference between the Ionic and Doric columns on the Acropolis? 94 What ruin is "more perfect, despite its mutilations, than the proudest structures of the modern world"? 99 Study carefully the different views of what might be termed the wreck of ages, "The Parthenon" 96, 97, 99, 100, 107 How long have the time-stained pillars of the Parthenon withstood the ravages of time? Ill What fortress of Greece built by the Venetians and the Turks can be reached only by a stairway of 857 steps? 136 Describe the architecture of the Cyclops as unearthed in Tiryns, Greece 156 Note the site, masonry, and pictured neglect of what was once one of the great cities of Greece 157-9, 160-3 Read Mr. Holmes' beautiful description of the towering monoliths of Greece 277-278 How were the monks forced higher and higher until their monasteries crowned the Meteora peaks? 302 18 AROUND THE WORLD WITH 1JURTON HOLMES Religion PAGE Why did all Greece repair to Olympia once every four years ? 45 Why did a Roman Emperor abolish the Olympian games ? 56 When the people of Attica resolved to rebuild the Athens destroyed by the Asiatic host, what did they do with all the images of deities they had worshiped? 100 Visit with Mr. Holmes the great temple of "Aesculapius," the g< >d of healing 123 How did the gods in the sacred sanatorium of ancient Greece prescribe their remedies? 143 How is the greatness of Greek monasticism preserved in the nn mastery of Megaspelei »n? 211 Portray the life of the monks in the old monasteries of Greece 217 Narrate the legend of the founding of Megaspeleon 219 How has decaying orthodox monasticism crowned the "broken-mountains" of Thessaly? 281-282 Is the old orthodox Greek ritual adhered to by the monks of Thessaly ? 288 Are the Greek monks pledged to celibacy? ' 300 Does the Greek church recognize the Pope at Rome as the supreme head of the spiritual world? 300 Are images or statues worshiped as religious symbols by orthodox Greeks ? 301 According to the legend of the monks, how and why were the Meteora monasteries created? 309 Art and Literature Who was the sculptor of the most perfect male figure in the world of art? 45 Study the perfection of detail in the work of the Athenian sculpt* »rs, as illustrated 42, 46, 47 How have the deeds of the victors in the Olympian games keen immi irtalized? 52 What masterpiece of the great epoch of Greek sculpture is the most precious statue in the world? 52 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THREE 19 PAGE The fame of what three men is immortalized in the most perfect buildings the world has ever known? 101 After a sleep of 2,300 years, how were the "goddesses" of the old Athens awakened, and what did this discovery- mean to the world of art? 105 Note illustrations of the archaic goddesses 109 What is the "capital" required for the opening of the mine of Grecian treasure? 115 How has Aeschylus, the tragic poet, immortalized the vic- tory of the Greeks over the Persians? 123 What wonderful treasures were found in the Mycenae tombs ? 148 Where and how did the poetical conception of Arcadia originate ? 180 How will the long climb to the famous temple of Bassae reward the pilgrims to this old shrine of art? 183 What is the meaning of the word "Megaspeleon"? 212 How has Mr. Holmes so happily eulogized the true Greek spirit that cannot die? 334, 336 History Was Olympia originally a city of importance? 45 To what Greek hero, famous for his strength, is credited the origin of the Olympian games? 46 When the astronomers had determined the date of the Greek festival, what great proclamation was issued? 48 On what occasion did a Grecian premier exclaim to the United States minister, "O, why did Columbus dis- cover your unconquerable country? 71 How was the ancient Acropolis destroyed? Relate the story of the re-building by the people of Attica.... 99 Looking back into the history of Greece, what can be said of her struggle against the oppression of other nations ? 106 How did the Athenians and their allies conquer Xerxes and his great Persian fleet? 122 By whom was the work on the Corinthian canal com- menced? 124 20 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE From what city in Greece did Agamemnon sail to conquer Troy? 135 Give briefly the history of Nauplia, Greece 139 What grocer-boy fulfilled his declaration that he would find the cities immortalized by 1 Iomer? 146 What was the most remarkable archaeological discovery ever made in Greece? 146 How has Mistra, at one time the home of conquerors of Greece, been annihilated? 166 Compare the Arcadia of today with the Arcadia of old Greek history 178 How did Thessaly prove the cemetery of the hopes of Greece ? 229 Give a brief resume of the Greco-Turkish war of 1897. .248, 251 When the present occupants of the monasteries have passed away, what will become of these "Wonders of Thessaly" ? 284 When were the Meteora monasteries founded? 301 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FOUR "If one would read understanding^ the world-book of travel he must study the grt-ai first chapter — the genesis of history." World Wonderful PAGE Landing at Alexandria, after a most delightful trip up the Nile, are we disappointed in the city that according to historians represented the "Glory that was Greece"? 11 If "all things fear time, and time fears the Pyramids" were they man-made, and can man destroy them? 54 What personification of mystery, battered and broken by the attacks of Time and Alan, still bears the stony semblance of a human skull ? 61 Compare the palisades of the Nile with those of the Hud- son and the Grand Canon 73 What was the first great monumental city of the world, and what now marks the site of this ancient capital? 96 In what way does Air. Holmes liken the ruins of Karnak, Egypt, to the Grand Canon of the Arizona? 102 Visit with Air. Holmes the birthplace of the obelisks of Egypt and describe how the block of granite was shaped, finished, cut loose from the cliff and shipped down the Nile 120 Gliding along the Nile with Air. Holmes, what Egyptian island appears like "an architectural wonderland moored in the moonlight on the bosom of this ancient stream" ? 125 Where has Rameses II left an everlasting monument that is a masterly creation of architectural genius cut in a cliff that affords a rocky dam to hold in check the billows of the sandy sea of the Sahara? 131 Why does Air. Holmes call Amalfi "the most impossibly picturesque little town in all Southern Italy"? 176 Where do we find a cliff-built city whose streets are often tunnels running through or under the houses? 176 21 22 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Note illustrations of this beautiful town 177, 179, 180 Study the charm of Capri from the perspective given in illustration 198 Where do we find a grotto so blue that it seems the only sample of real azure now on earth, the rest being stored in the heavens? 205 Stand with Mr. Holmes in the amphitheater of Pompeii and witness Vesuvius in violent eruption, lifting its cloudy columns nearly two miles into the sky 243 Which one of the Swiss cities is undoubtedly best loved by the tourists? 273 What lake is called the "Lake of the Four Forest Can- tons"? 284 Where is the "Jungfrau" of Switzerland, and why is it so named ? 295 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FOUR 23 PAGE Where is the most self-assertive, the most savage and the cruelest-looking mountain peak that Nature ever fashioned ? 327 Geographical Settings What great river is the life of Egypt? 6 How can we reach Cairo, the metropolis of Egypt, from Alexandria ? 14 What is the distance between Alexandria and Cairo?.... 14 What are the three methods of travel up the Nile, and how did Air. Holmes make the trip? 68 How does the density of the productive area of Egypt compare with that of Belgium, which has the densest population of any European country? 77 Where is Salerno, and how does the city and the bay com- pare in beauty with Naples and its bay? 170 Where is Mount Vesuvius, and how great is the popula- tion living within sight of the Vesuvian cone? 217 What is the present height of Vesuvius and how long was the crater in action in 1906? 254 How did Mr. Holmes enter Switzerland? 260 Compare the area of Switzerland with the state of New York, and its population with that of the city of New- York 306 By what three names is the King of the Alps known?. . . 327 Is Mont Blanc in Switzerland? 334 Monte Rosa, the highest peak in the land, is on the bound- ary line between what two countries? 334 Manners and Customs What does Mr. Holmes say of "Shepheard's," the original big caravansary for the Christian tourist in Egypt?. . 18 Do the women of the Mahommedan religion attend church ? 31 Because of his belief that without a body, the soul or spirit must perish, how did the old Egyptian prepare for any chance decomposition? 49 In what way was Rameses II the originator of spectacular advertising-? 67 24 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How has Rameses II proved to posterity that he was not only a great king, but a gallant husband? 101, 132 What people looked upon their tomb as their real home, and their home but a place for sojourn? 108 How do the Nubian women dress their hair, and what is the chief apparel of the boys and girls of this Biblical land of Kush? 126 What people do not look upon singing as an art. but as a means of expression for sorrow or joy? 148 What dues Mr. Holmes say of the squalor of the Neapoli- tans who greet the passing traveler in such throngs that all Naples seems dirty and ragged? 151 Give a brief description of the home life of the Neapolitan who finds it necessary to live in the "windowless" flats of Naples 158 In what Italian metropolis are the goats driven upstairs in the apartment houses so that the purchaser may be assured of fresh milk? 164 What people are such inveterate gamblers that the Government runs all gambling houses and places the rake-oft' in the public treasury? 165 How do the people of southern Italy provide for the cool- ing of their summer drinks where ice manufacture is not feasible? 183 Where do we find women carrying loads that would tax the strength of a pack-mule? 187 How many languages are spoken by the natives oi Switz- erland? 306 Architecture Where do we find the nine most graceful domes in all the realm of Saracenic architecture? 33-34 Describe the Mosque of Mohammed AH, and note the Strength and beauty of its architecture as shown in illustrations $8-39 Illustrate the accuracy of the ancient architects and engineers through the test made by modem experts on the first and greatest pyramid 56 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FOUR 25 PAGE To complete the tomb of Cheops, how many men labored for how many years ? Why is the tomb of Cheops called the Matterhorn of masonry ? 5° From what was the Sphinx carved? Is anything known of this mutilated mask that seems to "express by the smile of those closed lips the inanity of our most profound human conjecture"?. . . Where do we find the oldest stone superstructure in the world, and what is it called? 67 In architectural grace, stony dignity and sculptural beauty, how does the shrine of Hathor at Dendera compare with other temples of Egypt? 92 57 62 62 Upon what huge Egyptian columns could a Roman cen- turion mass one hundred men? Of what are these mammoth columns composed and how were they constructed? Where buried in the sands blown from the Arabian desert do we find the beautiful ruins that tell of the Greek age in Egypt ? Note the beautiful and varying architectural designs of the Venice of Egypt in illustrations 126-128 Compare the curious cloisters of La Cava, and the Sicilian cloisters that are considered the most beautiful in the world 169 104 104 119 26 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Of what period and style of architecture are the temples of Paestum, Italy, and how do they differ from the famous temples of Athens? 172 Visit with Mr. Holmes the famous Cappucini cloisters and tread the old pergola which for seven centuries has remained unchanged 181 Note the strange Ischian architecture as illustrated 208 Note illustrations of the exterior and interior of one of the luxurious Pompeian palaces 237-38 Does the architecture of Lucerne change with the times? 276 Industrial Life How has England contributed to Egypt's present pros- perity? 9, 78 What is the daily employment of three-fifths of the adult population of Egypt? 74 Describe the two "immemorial contrivances" for lifting water from the Nile for industrial purposes 74 The chimneys of what great industry now rise like smok- ing obelisks where once the thirsty sands prevailed? 78 Where at one time was laziness a secure virtue, and industry a dangerous vice? 79 What system of free labor formerly prevalent in Egypt has now been abolished by the English protectorate? 84 What does Mr. Holmes say of the ice industry in some of the minor towns of southern Italy? 183 For what three products is Switzerland far-famed? 260 What beautiful mountain village of Switzerland is called the village of hotels? 261 How do the natives of the Engadine thrive so prosper- ously near the edge of the icy wilderness of the Alps? 264 What does Mr. Holmes say as to the productiveness of the terraced vineyards of Yaud? 315 Education and Religion Where do we find the seat of the greatest of Moham- medan universities, the m< ist fam< »us educati< mal insti- tution of the Moslem World? 24 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FOUR 27 PAGE Compare the spread of the Moslem belief with that of the other religions of the earth 25 In the Mosque of El Azhar, do we find many students in attendance, and by what is the curriculum controlled? 25 Name some of the subjects taught by the professors in the Mosque of El Azhar 25 What countries send their most promising young men to "commit intellectual suicide" in this Mosque?.... 27 What posture does the student assume while in the class- room, and how does he study the lessons for the day? 27 Why is Friday regarded as a holy day by the Moslem?. .27-28 Who are the six great prophets revered by the Moslem, and why do they worship Mohammed and no other?. . 28 Repeat the Moslem call to prayer 33 How many times a day are the calls to prayer given?. ... 33 How often does the "Holy Carpet" with its pious follow- ers make the pilgrimage to Mecca? 41 What great thinker and writer of Greece spent thirteen years under the tutelage of the priests of Amnion?. . 52 What city in Egypt was once famous for its religion and philosophy ? 53 From what is the expression "sphinx-like" derived? 62 Who are the Copts of Egypt and what do they represent? 70 Where did Mr. Holmes encounter the small lad who, in- stead of asking for "backsheesh," wanted an English book? 82 Whom do the Egyptians consider the deity of the dead, and where was his head entombed ? 87 To be buried near the tomb of what god was the pious wish of every Egyptian ? 87 Who were the priests of Ammon, and what does Mr. Holmes say of their former wealth and power ?.52, 96, 106 What has become of the obelisks that once stood before the great temples that marked the intellectual center of the world ? 53 No matter how poor the Neapolitan family, what evidence is always found of religious fidelity? 158 Why are the churches in Naples termed the "palaces of the poor"? 159 28 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE To whom were the Greek temples, found at Paestum, Italy, dedicated? 171 Describe the festival of San Costanzo, the patron saint of Capri 199 Relate the destruction of over one hundred natives of San Giuseppe while kneeling in prayerful supplica- tion for deliverance from the fury of Vesuvius 248 Art and Literature How does the famous wooden statue of the Sheik, one of the oldest works of art in the world, make the ancient Egyptians seem more real ? 46 Note the perfectly preserved works of art to be found upon the walls of Seti's temple at Abydos. What do these figures represent? 89 Study carefully the illustrations of the art creations of over three thousand years ago 88-9, 98-9, 100 To whom did the oldest known art-work in jewelry be- long, and where was it found? 91 Who was the Venus of the Nile in Egyptian mythology, and what great temple was dedicated to tins god- dess? 92, 93 Where do we find, on pillars as tall as the Parthenon, clus- tered papyrus stems of stone crowned by the stone- buds of the papyrus and lotus, so real and beautiful that they seem to have sprung from the sacred soil instead of the chisel of the sculptor? 98 In searching the underground burial places of the Theban Pharaohs what lasting testimony of the early artists is there found ? Ill How did Richard Wagner happily describe the famous old Rufolo palace in Ravello, Italy? 190 What modern writer dwelt in a villa on the Sorrentino cliffs and there wrote hi'- "Saracinesca" and "Ave Roma Immortalis"? 197 How has the region west of Naples hern immortalized?.. 211 How has Shakespeare given us a bit of the human history of the i>le of Nisida? 215-216 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FOUR 29 PAGE How does Vesuvius live in the literature of the past and present ? 217 How has Pliny so well described the terrible Vesuvian "pigna" ? 220 Observe carefully the illustrations of the "Smoke Pine of Vesuvius" 221-223 How did Vesuvius so carefully seal the town of Hercu- laneum that even the libraries of papyrus scrolls have been found in a state of perfect preservation? 232 p2L BRIENZ L THl'N"*^!»*iNTERLAKEN LAUTER W Q N r E „ N# A' EIGER 1< »ny? 171 What Italian city of the Greeks, once more powerful than Ri >me. is n< >w alm< >st unkn< i ami ? 172 How has the prosperity of Amalfi decreased and in what way has nature assisted its decline? 176 How did the early Romans utilize what is now the "Blue Grotto" of Capri? 206 What German poet, forgotten as a poet, is remembered for his discovery of the "Blue * rr< itti >" > >f Italy ? 206 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FOUR 31 PAGE In what town, buried beneath a modern village at the base of old \ esuvius, has been found evidence of wealth and culture much greater than that of Pompeii? 232 In what year occurred the fall of Pompeii? 235 From what did the town of Lucerne derive its name?... 275 Of what event in history is the Lion of Lucerne a memorial ? 278 For how long is the President of Switzerland elected?. . . 305 What does Mr. Holmes say as to the government of this country ? 305 Where do we find the birthplace and the headquarters of the L T niversal Postal Union ? 311 What famous old medieval castle required the combined strength of an army of seven thousand men and a lake fleet to wrest it from the tyrant Chas. Ill of Savoy? 313 Tell the story of the conquest of the Matterhorn 327 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FIVE Wandering from clime to clime observant st rave J. Their manners noted and their states surveyed." The World Wonderful PAGF. Where do we find more populous and vaster catacombs than those of Italy? 20 Explore, with Burton Holmes, the wonderful parks and f< irests i »f Fontainebleau 70 What interesting- discovery off the northwest coast of France proves that what is now a part of the Bay ^i Brittany was formerly a forest ? 89 The skulls of what species of wild animals, not of known existence since the time of Caesar, were found l»uried beneath the sands of this bay: S9 Upon what mountain peak do we behold, like Constantine, a cross set in the heavens; from whence "the very skies speak to us of the resurrection and the ascen- sion" ? 163 Read Burton Holmes' delightful description of the even- ing' before the great Passion Play when "all nature is hushed as if in expectation ^>i the morrow". . . .163-164 Compare the scenic beauty >>\ the western coast of Corsica with the beautiful and world-famous section between Nice and the frontier < >f Italy 228 Where is the most wonderful and picturesque gorge called the "Stairway of the Holy Queen"? 239 Visit with Mr. Holmes the Vizzavona forest which is "folded round the shoulders of Corsica" 252 .Vote the illustrations of the massive ruggedness "i the mountain- of Corsica, and the silent, somber towns that "seem to sleep along the mountain sides" 236. 237. 241. 243. 245 Describe the famous marine cave in the cliff of Bonifacio. .283-5 32 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FIVE 33 Manners and Customs PAGE How is the National Fete of France celebrated? 35-36 What will you see on a visit with Burton Holmes to some of the famous cafes and pleasure resorts round about Paris such as : The Red Mill, or "Le Moulin Rouge"? 41 Tavern of "The Four Arts" ? 44 Cafe of Death ? 47 Black Cat, or "Chat Noir "? 54 Where, as we journey round about Paris, can we dine amid the cool, leafy branches of a "tree-top" res- taurant ? 61 How does the Renting Committee, or "Wohnungs Bureau," provide for the many visitors who throng the village of Oberammergau every ten years? 122 In what country does the term "maid of all work" find its most fitting illustration? 126 By what names do we find the Ammergauers greeting each other in daily life? 132 Is dancing permitted in Oberammergau during the season for the Passion Play ? 135 How do the Ammergau folk prepare in their daily life for the parts they are hopeful of "re-living" in the great Passion Play? 141-150 How have the Ammergauers regulated the purchase of tickets for the drama enacted every ten years? 172 How do the Ammergauers distribute the profits of the Passion Play, and are the actors well paid? 174 Are wigs, paints and make-up used by the actors in the Passion Play? 184 Are the Corsicans a brave people ? 228 Have the French been successful in transforming the war- like people of Corsica? 231 What does Mr. Holmes say of the splendid roads of Corsica ? 235-236 What Corsican leader slew his wife because she agreed to surrender herself and child to the Genoese? 244 In what way is the Corsican bandit a social regulator?. . 260 34 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLM ES r VGE Describe the centuries-old "vendetta" for which Corsica is famous 305-309 How has the "vendetta" been aptly defined? 306 What ruler of Corsica would accept no other title than "the Father of his Country," and lived, while dictate r. simply as a native mountaineer? 327 Architecture Where in Paris is the structure erected by the old monks of Cluny, and what is its present use? 15-16 PARIS \ ICINlTt If the swift, invisible canals of the sewers of Paris were connected end to end hew many hundred miles could you travel without leaving your boat? 19 Where can the "Round About Paris" visitor walk for miles between unbroken walls of human bones? 23 What church in Paris has a solid cement foundation cost- ing mi >re than a millu m di >llars ? 40 Where do we find one of the special landmarks of the American in Paris? 41 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FIVE 35 PAGE Describe the ruined towers and donjon-keep of Coucy ; the structure that still stands as a "monument" to the durability of the early French masonry 78 What two famous castles, at one time owned by Louis of Orleans, are considered the two finest specimens of feudal architecture in France? 85 Of what structure in Normandy has it been said that "man and nature have worked in concert to produce this wonder in piled-up rock and cavern stone"? 103 Describe the wonderful architecture of the Abbey of Mont Saint Michel, the building known as "La Merveille," or "The Marvel" 105-106 Note carefully illustrations of this "most astonishing structure in the world" 101-104-105-107-109-110 Give the design and plan of the Passion theater at Ober- ammergau 165 Who designed the Passion Theater? 165 What does Burton Holmes say as to the general plan and the artistic setting of the stage on which the Passion Play is enacted ? 17? In what way does Bastia, the most populous city of Corsica, bear the stamp of that Italian city which so long and so cruelly ruled its destinies? 233 Where do we find quarries of the finest building stone and marble which are left practically untouched? 233 Where will you find in a foreign land a chateau built from the stones of the original palace of the Tuileries?. . . . 288 Industrial Life Where do we find the Halles Centrales, or what Zola calls the "stomach of Paris," and what is the area of this vast market-place? 23 About how much does the great city of Paris spend daily for food? 24 What store in Paris is termed the parent of the big depart- ment stores of all lands ? 27 What are the chief resources of the inhabitants of the island of Mont Saint-Michel? 9fc" 36 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How do the villagers of Oberammergau dispose of the products of their chisels during the ten-year periods between the Passion Plays? 129 What is the 1< »cal industry of the Ammergauers ? 130 How has the local industry of Oberammergau been pre- served? 129-130 In the manufacture of Bavarian stoves why is it necessary to be a potter as well as a stovemaker? 130 To what does the city of Ajaccio owe its commercial importance ? 232 Why do the Corsicans, poor as they are, import laborers to perform the heavy work on the roads and in the fields? 284 Education and Religion What Pope was held a prisoner at Fontainebleau, and by whom ? 76 How did the dedication of a chapel forever fix the name of Mont Saint-Michel? 90 In the legend of St. Michael and the Demon, how does the saint outwit his evil neighbor? 90 Why is photographing in the Passion Theater absolutely forbidden? 157 Where is the "marble crucifixion-group" of Oberam- mergau ? 163 Note illustratii in of this group 165 Read Burton Holmes' vivid description of the most im- pressive dramatic representation of modern times - - the Passii >n Play : The Chorus 177. 1S2 "Christus" 183 Mary 184 The High Priest 185-186 1 Vter and John 189 Pontius Pilate 189 Judas 190. 193 Who for thirty years was the "Christus" in the Passion Play, and in 1900 appeared as the "Prologus"? 178 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FIVE 37 PAGE Note the high type of human nubility and dignity por- trayed by this man as shown in the halftone 179 What are the duties of the Choragus in the Passion Play, and how many times does the chorus make its appear- ance? 181-182 How many actors take part in this sacred drama? 197 Describe the impressiveness of the scene on "Calvary" and the effect on the audience as they witness the enactment of this sublimest sacrifice 202 Why do the Ammergauers perform the Passion Play every ten years ? 204, 208 Why has the Passion Play been sometimes called the "Gospel according to St. Daisenberger"? 211 What four men are termed the "fathers" of the Passion Play? 212 What fateful words written by the boy Napoleon on the last page of his copy-book, were written in tears upon the last page of his life ? 266 38 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE In what way does Napoleon speak of his early education? 267 What can be said of the Corsicans' respect and desire for learning? 283-284 Art and Literature Where, in Paris, do we find an outdoor bookshop two miles in length, so free and accessible that *'he who walks may read" ? 14 How much did Millet's famous painting "The Angelus" bring, just fifteen years after the death of the arti-t. who, while living, was deprived of even life's neces- sities ? 70 What two great painters are together immortalized in the loveliest forest of France, and how? 70 In what way was the Oberammergau school of art founded, and h< »w perpetuated? 129 Observe the sacred frescoes on one of the Oberammergau h< mies as shi »wn in illustratii »n 141 Study carefully the masterly photographic reproductions of the great scenes in the Passi< m Play 194. 195, 197. 198, 199. 201, 202, '203, 205, 207, 208 How does the Passi< in Play < if today differ from the sacred drama of the middle ages ? 209 What two men were distinctly responsible for its present dignity and literary merit? 209-210 \\ ho wrote the plaintive music for the Passion Play, and at his death, tin »ugh but 22 years i if age, left a musical monument of masses and sacred compositions? 212 How many thousand volumes of praise or censure illumi- nate Napoleon's progress from his humble birthplace ti i the imperial t< >mb ? 266 When did Nap< »le< »n write a "I Ii-t< iry i if I a >rsica"? 270 What were the strongest characterises of this history, and what was it- value? 270 What great philosopher and stoic, banished by Claudius to a tower in Corsica, wrote from thence an essay on the "Mercy of Nero," by whom he was recalled and later condemned t< > death ? 33-1 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME FIVE 39 History and Government PAGE 35 What is the date of the National Fete of France?. . . . In what historic old palace did Napoleon bid farewell to the "Old Guard" ? 74 What monarch, by a stroke of the pen, plunged France into a religious civil war and turned back many pages in the book of progress ? 75 What is the population of Oberammergau? 123 Who fur forty years was the ruling spirit of the Passion Play, and in the village was termed the "Bismarck of Oberammergau" ? 186 When was the first performance of the Passion Play given, and where ? 208 When was Corsica conquered by the Romans, what other nations have tried to rule this people, and under what nation's control is the island now? 228 40 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How far is it from Bastia, the most populous city of Cor- sica, to Ajaccio, the capital, and what is the nature of the country through which you pass? 234 What is the length and breadth of the mountain-capped island of Corsica ? 236 What country boasts a line of heroes "with characters as rugged as her scenery, with souls as inspiring as her mountain-peaks"? 241 What isolated people numbering about three hundred thousand, have not yet known a hundred years of peace ? 24 1 What little city in the heart of Corsica was the rallying point of the patriotic leaders, and the last refuge of Corsican independence? 242 In what country does a band of outlaws control local elec- tions and municipal appointments, and levy assess- ments upon rich and poor alike? 258 Give the early history of the "Buonapartes" 262 What proclamation made Napoleon a Frenchman by birth, though of Corsican descent? 265 Where and when was Napoleon born? 265 Name some incidents of Napoleon's early life that illus- trate his intense patri< >tism 268-269 What famous woman, the mother of an emperor, three kings, and three princesses, was dependent upon the bounty of the state ? 269-270 In what country did Napoleon receive his military hon- ors? 270 When and where did the women i>\ a country don the armor of their sick and dead, and parade around the city walls to make the enemy believe that re- inforcements had arrived? 277 How did the island of Corsica become a province of France? 280 Tell of Paoli's strange but interesting rule of Corsica, and how he eventually died in exile 315-323 What docs Burton Holmes say of the numerous towers encircling the island of Corsica? 328 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SIX " A man must carry knowledge with him if he would bring home knowledge. ' Manners and Customs PAGE Describe the "East End" of London and its famous Petti- coat Lane 23-24 Where may the shopgirl literally look down upon Milady in her smart victoria ? 47 What church is world-famous for its fashionable marriage ceremonies ? 55 Residence in what avenue is considered a social passport in London ? 57 How does Mr. Holmes characterize the East and West Ends of London ? 59-60 What street is called the plexus of the nervous system of the Empire ? 87 In what, according to Mr. Holmes, lies the chief charm of London ? 88 Where was a barber sued for making and selling coffee?. . 89 Why is the City of the Seine "all things to all men"?... 115-116 From what part of the medieval city do the boulevards of modern Paris take their name? 126 How has the night prowling criminal of Paris acquired the American Indian title of "Apache"? 148 How does Mr. Holmes regard the universal appellation of Paris — -"Gay Paree"? 172 Where and how may the tourist find the queer old streets and quarters of the "Quartier du Marais"? 185 Who was the inventor of the guillotine, and has he received credit therefore? 199 In what great city do we find an edevated railroad so screened by foliage that the average passerby cannot detect it ? 260 Compare the local transportation service of Berlin with that of Chicago 260-261 4i 42 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PACE Of what descent are the dwellers of the Spreewald, and has Germany been able to modernize these people?. . 291 Descrihe the "Tiicher" or national headdress of the Wendish women 267, 293 Glide with Mr. Holmes along the swift and silent canals of the exquisite "rural Venice" of Berlin, noting the beautiful landscape and quaint ways and customs of the Wendish people 298 Describe the "Parademarsch," or the saluting step of the ( rerman army 316 LONDON o j4 fi. y* i i/* i/ t MILES 1 — Albert Memorial. 2 Pall Mall. 8 St. James Palace. 4 Trafalgar Square. 5 — National Gallery. G — Horse Guards. 7 X''\\ Scotland Yard. 8 Bouses hi Parliament. 9 Covenl Garden. in Lincoln's Inn. 11 — Drury Lane. 12 Old Law Courts. 13 Charterhouse. i 1 st. rani's ( lathedral. ] .". Dower of London. Architecture What famous building, later a prison, was at one time a n iyal palace of England ? 13 Compare "St. rani's" of London with "St. Peter's" of Koine and the cathedrals of Milan. Seville and Flor- ence 29 Describe Buckingham Palace, which was made by Queen Victoria the official Royal Residence in London 82 the exterior of the " ( "iirt of St. James" correspond with the splendor of its interior? SI What early style of architecture is represented by the Catholic Cathedral of Westminster? 93 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SIX 43 PAGE Of what material is the New Palace of Westminster con- structed ? 106 What two great towers are among the most graceful in the world ? 107 What Abbey has been the mausoleum of the kings of France for thirteen hundred years? 127 What famous prison was once one of the fortified city gates of Paris ? 129 Of what was the Yendome column made, and what victory does it commemorate? 130-131 Compare the Yendome column of Paris with the Trajan column of old Rome 131 What is the finest purely modern structure of Paris, and what site reeking with tragic memories does it mark? 139 How many bridges span the Seine between Charenton and Auteuil ? 143 The tower of what famous old palace is adorned with the most beautiful and elaborate clock in Paris? 153 Note the exterior and interior of Notre Dame as shown in the splendid illustrations of this church of "Our Lady of Paris" 154-161 Which of the architectural gems of Paris is described by Mr. Holmes as "graceful and delicate as a chiseled jewel casket," externally; and internally "as glorious in color as if made of nothing more material than the substance of a rainbow" 157-158 To the genius of what French architect does France owe the artistic restoration of so many of her medieval monuments ? 160 Where do Ave find a church of such strange architectural design that it appears to be several churches inter- penetrating the other? 166 What is the most "artistic architectural fragment" sur- viving the campaign of Paris improvement? 172 Give the history of the famous old Musee de Cluny 175 What monument nearly a thousand feet in height, which Mr. Holmes describes as an inverted question-mark, veritably dominates the city of Paris? 219 44 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PACE Contrast the simple grandeur of the present tomb of the "Prisoner of St. Helena" with the crude simplicity of the tomb in which he lay so many years 220-221 Where is the tomb of Prussia's most illustrious and eccen- tric monarch, Frederick the Great? 280 What palace was the favorite abode of Frederick the Great? 281 Where is the Brandenburg ( rate, and of what is it an imitation ? 303 Describe the Opera 1 louse of Berlin. What ruler caused its erection ? 311 To the genius of what architect does Berlin owe much of its noble aspect? 318 Education and Religion What Catholic Saxon king" built the greatest and most famous of the churches of old London? 94 To what does Westminster Abbey owe its present name? 94 By what other name is Westminster Abbey known?. ... 94 What Chapel is literally "paved with princes"? 103 To shelter what sacred relics was the Sainte Chapelle of the Palace of Justice designed ? 158 Where are these precious and holy relics now preserved? 158 Wdiat church is called "Our Lady of Paris"? 159 What is the Latin Quarter, and why is it so called? 164 Where is the huge educational palace of La Sorbonne, and how was it founded? 164-165 St. Etienne-Du-Mont is the shrine of what sainted pa- troness of Paris? 168 What three great men whose influence, though somewhat pagan, has been incalculable, sleep in the crypt of the Pantheon of Paris? 168 From the purely scientific viewpoint what one woman has gone deepest into the great mystery of being? 170 By whom and for what purpose was the Academie Fran- chise fi lunded ? 190 Why are the members of the Academie Francaise called "Immortals" ? 190 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SIX 45 PAGE What great French philosopher spent three years as a guest of Frederick the Great? 281 Are the Wendish people a church-loving folk? 294 Art and Literature Where is "Cleopatra's Needle" located, and what has been its history ? 7 Where did Walter Raleigh write his "History of the World"? 17 1- -Isle de la Cite\ 16- - Place de la Concorde. ■>_ -Notre Dame. 17- -Place Vendome. 3- Hotel de Ville. 18- -Grand Opera House. 4- -institute. 1 0- -Place de la Republique. .)— -L'ficole des Beaux Arts. 20- -Montparnasse. C»- -Louvre. 21- -Eiffel Tower. i - -I'aiais Royal. •>•>_ -Arc de Triomphe. V- -Tuileries. 23— -Montmartre Cemetery. 9- -I'aiais de Luxembourg. 24- -Bois de Boulogne. 10- -Boulevard St. Michel. 25— -Champs Elvsees. 11- -Pantheun. 26- -Hotel des Invalides. 12- -.Tardin des Plantes. 27- —Madeleine. 1 ::- -Place de la Bastille. 28 —Avenue de Clichv. 14- llallcs Centrales. 29- -Pere Lachaise Cemetery 15- -Bourse. 30- —Place de la Nation. What noted author is buried within the precincts of the Temple of London ? 32 The pen of what beloved English author pointed the way to the "Inns of Court"? 33 Who has said that "a fine gallery of pictures is like a palace of thought"? 44 46 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Where in London do we find a gallery where "each canvas marks a summit scaled, an Alpine height in art, a pinnacle of perfection beyond which human inspira- tion cannot go" ? 44 In what novel did Thackeray immortalize the founder of the wonderful "Wallace collection"? 50 Where is there a stone roof so beautifully chiseled by the artist that it has "the airy security of a cobweb"?. . . 103 Where is the largest theater building in the world, and of what arts is it the center? 121 Where is the home of the most nearly perfect acting that can be seen? 135 Name some of the famous dramatic artists who made their debut in this theater 136 Note the clear sculptorial beauty of the statues of Alfred De Musset and Camille Desmoulins 135, 136 What French writer has been termed "the tearful poet"? 136 Describe the stone chimeras, or gargoyles, that guard the tower-tops of Notre Dame 162 Note the rare beauty and design of the tomb of Richelieu which is to be found in the old church of Sorbonne. . 165 Where may. be found the masterpiece of the great sculptor Rodin? 168 Read Mr. Holmes' splendid encomium on the "Le Penseur" 168-169 Whose experiments, discoveries, and successes formed the foundation upon which France has erected her great ceramic art industry? 177 Where is the largest, richest, and most fascinating art collection in the world? 193 What is the greatest treasure of the Louvre, and in what island was it discovered? 194 How is Ramses II immortalized in the Place de la Con- corde ? 202-203 Read the description and study the illustrations of the great monument raised in honor of the "Iron Chan- cellor" of Germany 245-246 To whom does Berlin owe the magnificent array of marble royalty that lines the "Sieges Allee"? 270 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SIX 47 PAGE Study the magnificent works of art along the "Sieges Allee" which Mr. Holmes so vividly pictures 270-273 Review the historical associations of the "Chariot of Victory" on the Brandenburg Gate 303 Note illustration of "the chariot that went to Paris — and came back" 304 Describe the statue of Frederick the Great which graces the open square of the Opera House in Berlin. . . .310-311 jll|f»» nnn. BERLIN 'A SCALE Or MILES 1 — Tiergarten. 2 — Boulevard to Charlottenburg. 3 — Sieges Allee. 4 — Victory Column. 5 — Konigs Platz. 6 — Brandenburger Thor. 7 — Pariser Platz. 8 — Potsdamer Platz. Leipziger Platz. Residence of Chancellor of Ger- man Empire. Reichstag Building. Wilhelm Strasse. . Leipziger Strasse. Behren Strasse. 0- 10- 11- 12- 13- 14- 15 — Unter den Linden. 16 — River Spree. IT — Friedrich Strasse. 18 — University of Berlin. 19 — Palace of Emperor William I. 20- Royal Opera House. 21 — Palace of the Crown Prince. 22 — Reichsbank. 23 — Palace of Monbijou. 24— old Museum. 25 — National Picture Gallery. 2G — Lutheran Cathedral. 27 — Palace of Emperor William II. 28 — Rathhaus or City Hall. The chisel of what famous sculptor gave to Berlin this statue? 310 Where in Berlin do we find an art temple in the Greek- Ionic style, enshrining a magnificent collection of original antiques? 318 Study the splendid Pergamon Marbles adorning the recon- structed altar of Zeus, as shown in illustrations 323 4 8 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES History and Government PAGE The name of what great city is defined as "The Pool of the Strong Place on the Hill"? 10 How docs the London Bridge of today differ from its his- toric predecessor? 12 For how long has the history of "The Tower" been a part of the history of London ? 13 What is the Tower of London? 14 Who was England's greatest naval hero, and how has she paid homage to him? 43 What famous museum gives to the world the opportunity of studying the dead civilizations of the past? 46 Where does the duly affixed and cancelled penny stamp legalize the receipt? 56-57 Where is "Rotten Row" and from what old French name has it been Anglicized ? 63 Where and when was Queen Victoria born ? 81 To whom is the Westminster Column a monument?.... 95 Give the names of a few of the illustrious men who are buried beneath the marble pavements of Westminster Abbey 99 Why is "Big Ben" of London so well beloved? 108 Give a brief history of the Place de la Bastille, the old Paris square, which teems with historical associations 127 What was the first cry raised by the French revolutionary mob of July, 1789? 129 The words of what noted Frenchman fired the fuse of the French Revolution ? 137 Why has the Flotel de Ville been called the "Louvre of Robespierre" ? 140 Because of his momentary cowardice the guillotine re- ceived what famous French "patriot"? 140 Who originated and planned the "holy massacre" of the Huguenots in 1572? 154 Recall -nine of the historical associations connected with the site of Notre Dame 161 In what famous old church did Bonaparte crown himself Emperor of the French? 161 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SIX 49 PAGE Give the history of the Palace of the Tuileries from the time of Catherine de Medici 195 To what does the glorious Place de la Concorde owe its name ? 198 What self-designed memorial of an ancient King of Egypt looks along the Champs-Elysees toward a self-com- manded memorial of a modern European Emperor? 205 What is the meaning of the inscription on the original tomb of Napoleon at St. Helena, and why was the name of so great a man omitted ? 222 Who poured the treasures of the world in the lap of the city he so well loved ? 224 How has Hamburg been modernized through her mis- fortunes ? 240 Who is called the "Iron Chancellor" of Germany? 245 How has William II honored his predecessors from the firbt Margrave of Brandenburg down to William I? 270 Recount some of the laws which enable the German Empire to stand as the only beggarless great nation in the world ? 275-276 Give an account of the story of the existing friendship between the king who first made Prussia great, and the French philosopher Voltaire 282 What city of Germany has been called "the cradle of the Prussian army" ? 283 Where is the exquisite country district of Germany called the Spreewald, or the "Forest of the Spree"? 290 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SEVEN " A land rich in content, kindliness and peace." World Wonderful PAGE Why do geologists speak of Norway as "Nature's young- est child"? 7 Where do we find a snow-field which spreads its white- ness over one hundred and twenty square miles?. ... 22 Compare the great waterfall of Norway, the Voringsfos, with the Falls of the Yellowstone of America 23 How have the mighty fjords been cut in the mountain- mass of Norway? 44 Study the panorama of the Naerodal as given in the illustration 50 Read Mr. Holmes' beautiful "word painting" of the trip through the Geiranger Fjord 63-64 What city is called the "midnight sun metropolis"? 96 In what way does the North Cape remind us of a huge wedge 'twixt the known and the unknown? 99 From what island does man most often see a perfect vision of the orb that hangs 'twixt night and day? 107 Visit with Mr. Holmes the Lyngen Fjord and enjoy with him the great moment that marks the "end of yester- day and the beginning of tomorrow" in the land of the midnight sun 108-111 Describe how the canal boats of Sweden "go up hill" and give the tourist an "overland" trip by water 126 Why is Stockholm termed the "Venice" and again the "Paris" of the north ? 135-138 How is "the last-born daughter of the sea," as Finland is often called, being slowly lifted out of the sea's embrace ? 231 When the icy touch of the arctic winter transforms even the salty waters into a huge icy waste, how does the "frozen desert" shorten the route from Finland to Sweden? 232 50 OBSERVATIONS MA VOLUME SEVEN 5i 1 — Copenhagen. 2 — Elsinore. 3 — Frederiksbor 4 — Vordingborg. 9 — Aaiinis. 10 — Randers. 11 — Aalborg. PAGE Compare a world trip from the "rising to the setting sun" with the trip from Gibraltar north to the North Cape . 259 Is Denmark literally an "island kingdom"? 265 What country does Mr. Holmes describe as "one vast park-like pasture, a rolling grazing ground with a range of cows on every ridge"? 331 52 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE What jagged cliffs are the only famous scenic wonders of Denmark ? 334 Geographical Settings What is the population of Norway ; and what is the annual emigration, chiefly to the United States? 12 Why does a bird's-eye view of Bergen recall the old geo- graphical picture illustrating the "physical features of the globe" ? 28 Give the definition for the Scandinavian word "fjord," and where do we find the most varied fjord of Norway ? 40 About how lung is the Scandinavian peninsula, and what is the outer coast-line of Norway? 41 Where is the "northern balcony of Europe"? 101 What brief and timeless instant is marked by the passing of the "midnight sun" ? Ill What river in Sweden furnishes mure than 200,000 horse- power within a space of one-third of a mile? 122 Where is Finland, and what does Mr. I lolmcs say as to its inhabitants ? 225 Starting from Japan, where the kindred of the far north dwell, what is the most direct route to Finland?. . . . 232 Give the capital of Finland and its population 234 Name the foreign possessions of Denmark 265 What city is the capital of this island kingdom of the north ? 266 The opening of what canal netted Denmark a lump sum of twenty million dollars? 305 Manners and Customs Where is the wealthiest landlord only a peasant? 13 D< cribe the Norwegian cariole, and in what way it suggests the jinrikisha 14-15 Tn what city in Norway do the profits from the liquor trade g< i t< i the X a t i < mal Theater, M useums, Sah ation Army, Temperance Societies, etc.? 33-34 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SEVEN 53 PAGE How does the Norwegian farmer send his produce to town ? 65 Do the hotels of Stockholm and other cities of Sweden and Norway compare favorably with those of other European countries? 139 Do the women of Sweden affect the styles and modes of cosmopolitan Europe? 183 Where can we find the old Sweden reproduced in eloquent reality? 185 In what way does the Swedish country-side remind the tourist of the rural districts in the United States?. . . . 195 According to the chroniclers, what town in Sweden was formerly the center of a wealth so great that its citi- zens weighed their gold with twenty-pound weights and played chess with jewels? 206 According to superstitious Gotlanders, how is the wealth of Visby to be restored? 216 Where was brandy at one time the "coin" of the realm?. . 220 What does Mr. Holmes say of the Northmen as a race of men ? 222 Where do we rind women, instead of men, wielding the broom of the street-sweeper? 235 Architecture Note the quaint architecture of the old Scandinavian crea- tions, designed by the Norse artists in the eleventh and twelfth centuries 15, 18 The architecture of what country has been introduced and adopted in Sweden ? 1 19 In what city is Nature's architecture, in the form of primeval rock, still to be seen side by side with man's latest architectural creations? 136 Who was the father of Swedish architecture, and was he a native of Sweden? 151 Describe the Swedish "Royal Palace" on the Island of Staden, which marks the site of an ancient Viking stronghold 152 What German architect is responsible for the carrying out of the plans of the Tsar for the capital he created?. . . 234 54 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Note in the illustration the massive construction of the memorial church in St. Petersburg marking the site of the assassination of Alexander II 239 Describe the odd towers of the "Bors" and the "Church of our Redeemer" in Copenhagen 282-283 Who built the regal Castle of Frederiksborg? 302 From what does the epoch known as the Danish Renais- sance date ? 302 How does the interior of the Castle of Frederiksborg exemplify artistic evolution ? 303 What castle of Denmark is the Elsinore of Shakespeare's fancy ? 306 Industrial Life Why were all employes of the "llanseatic League" re- quired to take vows of celibacy? 30 What is the meaning of the word "Hanse," and why was the llanseatic league formed ? 30 Although nearly two-thirds of Norway's area are bare mountains, what is the chief industry of the people?. . 78 What is the annual yield of the "Great Cod Catch" of Norway ? 90 What is the favorite occupation of the Lapps? 95 What animal of the far north proves of inestimable com- mercial value "alive or dead"? 95 What does Air. Holmes say of the general attractiveness of the industrial establishments of Sweden? 181 How has the old maritime law of the wise mariners of Visby influenced the maritime traffic of today? 208 What people cultivate every available acre of their king- dom ? 264 Where do we find a belt of gardens cultivated by the poor likened by Mr. Holmes to a "wall of goodness girding a metropolis"? 279-280 How <]<>(■< the commerce of Copenhagen compare with that of other Danish p< >rts? 281 What percentage of the area of I Denmark is productive?. . 331 What can be said of the grain industry of I Knmark? $33 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME SEVEN 55 Religion and Education PAGE Does religion play a very intimate and practical part in the life of a citizen of Norway? 47 V hat is the national religion of Norway, this land of the old pagan vikings and early Catholic Kings? 81 Since Gustavus Adolphus the Great, what has been the prevalent faith of the Swedes? 173 I low do the Swedes regard "illiteracy"' and what can be said of the educational facilities of Sweden?. . . . 173, 195 How did the citizens of the old Swedish town of Visby openly manifest their thankfulness for well-merited prosperity ? 205 On what island do we find so many churches that the spires seem to rise "not singly but in battalions"?. . . 213 Compare the progressive spirit of the Scandinavian lands with that of Russia 255 Art and Literature What poet, novelist and politician is called the best loved man in Norway ? 9 Through whom have "Norwegian moods and life entered every music-room in the whole world"? 9 Give a brief sketch of Ole Bull, the Norwegian master of the sweetest instrument that ever spoke to human ears 37 How does Longfellow so fittingly describe the North Cape? 100 What is the foundation for the old proverb "When God divided the waters from the land he forgot all about Sweden"? 128 Who was the sculptor of one of the most striking works of art in Sweden, the superb group in bronze illustrat- ing a "belt duel"? 141 Note illustrations of Swedish art found in the gardens of the National Museum at Stockholm 143 In the realm of poetry recall three of Sweden's well known w Titers 159 In the world of music what two Swedish names ring rich and full? " 160 56 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Give the names of several other gifts of Sweden to the kingdoms of literature and science Io0-161 Give the legendary tale of the founding of Gotland, an isle of Sweden 210 What is the derivation of the Finnish language? 229 In what way is the delightful "Kalevala," the epic poem of the Finns, like the Greek epics? 244 In the German translation of what poem did Longfellow- find his "Hiawatha meter"? 246 What does Mr. Holmes say as to the Art and Literature of the Finns? 24S In what northern country do we find some of the finest museums and art galleries of the world? 270 Note illustrations of some of the Greek marbles and Roman portrait-busts of the Jacobsen collection, which connoisseurs regard as the most precious col- lection of its kind in the world 274 Where is the Thorvaldsen Museum? 290 Give briefly the career of Bertel Thorvaldsen and study three of his famous works as illustrated 291 What work of Thorvaldsen so delighted the Pope that he forgot to give the usual apostolic benediction at parting? 292 Though Thorvaldsen was a native of Denmark, in what country do we find the greatest product of his genius? 292 What famous Dane is world-loved by children for his delightful fairy tales? 299 In what magnificent chateau is artistic Denmark epito- mized ? 301 Read Mr. Holmes' opinion of the great hard who gave an earthly immortality to the creatures of his mighty brain by breathing in them the breath i if genius 307 History and Government Who was Harold the Fair-Haired? 7 What ruling dynasty of Europe is the youngest of all dynastieSj but rules over a kingdom one >ef( ire the spire was added ? 201 How does the average Russian city impress the traveler? 279 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME EIGHT 61 PAGE What does Mr. Holmes say as to the size of the Orthodox Cathedral of Irkutsk? Note illustration 279 Describe the celebrated "church on wheels" which was visited by Mr. Holmes 301 Note the interior of this railway chapel as shown in color plate 225 Manners and Customs What criticism does Mr. Holmes make of the unjust pen- uriousness of the United States in relation to the sup- port of its diplomatic representatives? 15 In what city is a man's social position indicated by the amount of padding his coachman wears? 27 What is the chief amusement afforded the peers of Russia in the Royal Gymnasium ? 43 Where is there a dining table so arranged that each plate may rest upon an individual dumb-waiter? 45 What strong barrier surrounds the Tsar's private palace and protects the monarch of a hundred million sub- jects ? 47 Note the unusual traffic rules and the various methods of public transportation on Russian streets 56-57 Why has the Russian alphabet been termed an "A B C in spasms" ? 58 What identifying label is placed on letter boxes in St. Petersburg, and why ? 60 What is the Russian method of house-numbering, as found in St. Petersburg? 60-61 Where did Mr. Holmes take the picture of a cathedral at half-past two in the morning, without the aid of arti- ficial light? 62 If in a hurry in Russia what suggestion of Mr. Holmes' is it wise to adopt? 69 When admitting a stranger to the presence of a prince of Russia, what precaution is taken by the uniformed attendants ? 76 Relate the pleasing incident illustrative of Russian cour- tesy as experienced by Mr. Holmes while calling upon a Prince of Russia 80 62 AROUXD THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Review with Mr. Holmes the great military show of Rus- sia which is held annually on May first at St. Peters- burg .' 83-104 What is the nationality of the merchants of the clothing markets of M< '-cow ? 127 In what Russian city are the finest public baths in the w< >rld ? 136 What is said of the Russian police supervision of local affairs ? 140 What is the Muscovite's conception of perfect bliss? 143 I >escribe the characteristic costume of the Russian waiter 144 In what famous convent of Moscow did Mr. Holmes dine, and of what did the menu consist? 144-146 Who were the Boyards, and what were their customs in regard to the care "i the women of their households? 158 From what country did Moscow import the flowers for her great fl< iral fete? 174 What is the continental title for a sleeping-car company?. 229 What does the general appearance of the Russian villages along the eastern route of the Trans-Siberian Rail- way suggest to the traveler from foreign lands? 233 How do the waiters on the dining cars of the Trans- Siberian railway "launder" the table napkins after each meal ? 246 How is the "law of the survival of the fittest" typified by the Russian emigrant to Siberia? 254 How does Mr. Holmes humorously describe the depart- ure announcements of trains from the stations along the Trans-Siberian Railway? 261 Why does Mr. Holmes say that the entire peasant popu- lation of Siberia seem to "have taken the veil"? 270 In what way do the wild type- of the Buriat tribe remind the t< lurist i >f the American Indian ? 305 Cite an example of the official red-tape necessary to the rec< '\ cry ' if baggage in Russia ? ^22 Religion and Art 1 1' >w d( i the Russians pay h< image as they pass a temple i ii the faith defended by the Tsar? 14 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME EIGHT 63 PAGE When and by whom was the marvelous collection in the Hermitage museum begun ? 37 Give a summary of the wondrous art treasures found in the Hermitage galleries 38 Where and what is the most sacred spot of Petersburg?. . 38 Note illustrations of the "Hall of Vases"; "Italian Gal- lery" and sculptored "Portico" of the famous Museum of St. Petersburg 39-41 What city of Tibet is the stronghold of the Grand Lama of Buddhism? 81 Are the people of Russia a devoutly religious people?. . . 105 Where is the statue of Peter the Great that reminds us that his ambition always looked seaward for its ful- fillment ? 108 What prominent building viewed from Sparrow Hills has been both the home and prison of royalty? 144 Contrast the cruel poverty of the devout and faithful mujiks who bring their meagre offerings to the monks with the great wealth of the religious orders of Rus- sia 149-151 Note the wonderful icons, studded with pearls and precious stones, as shown in illustration 150 Does the Russian peasant still wear the manacles of ignor- ance and gross superstition? 151 Cite an incident illustrative of the religious fanaticism of these peasants 152 What church commemorates the saving of Russia from the aggressions of Napoleon in 1812 166, 169 What is the most sacred stronghold of the Russian faith? 191 Describe the famous icon which was sent as a gift to the Orthodox Tsars of Moscow in 1648 192 How is the religious fervor of the Russians exemplified in the worship of the Iberian Madonna as it is driven through the streets of Moscow? 194 Of what great picture has it been said that its history was the history of Russia? 197-198 Which gate is considered the most sacred portal of the Kremlin, and why? 198 64 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How has the Russian Government provided a place of worship for the railway employes and touring emi- grants in Siberia ? 301 History and Government How does the word "prodigious" so happily describe the Russian ? 6 In studying a great nation, to what should the traveler first turn his attention, and because of this fact, with what city do we begin our study of Russia? 7 How has Russia guarded against a possible Napoleon of the future rushing his troops to St. Petersburg by rail? 8 How docs the Government prevent the Russian from reading censored articles that appear in the imported periodicals ? 18 In what respect does the life of Alexander II furnish a parallel to that of Abraham Lincoln? 23 Who waved his compelling wand of progress above the barren marshes of Neva, and brought forth the chief city of the Muscovite? 38 Where are stored the confidential reports of every Rus- sian general in every Russian campaign since Peter's time ? 54 How does the life story of Prince Khilkofr of Russia illus- trate a romance in modern achievement? 70 What princess of Russia is the grand-daughter of Amer- ica's greatest military leader of the nineteenth cen- tury ? 88 Describe the splendid and majestic charge of the cavalry in review before the Tsar of Russia 103 How did Peter the < rreal chi >< >se an "impi issible spot for an impossible venture and then compel impossibility to become facility"? 109 Why is Moscow called the mother city of the Russians? 115 Why does the railway between St. Petersburg and Mos- cow run in an absolutely straight line, missing many impi irtant towns? 117 OBSERVATIONS VTA VOLUME EIGHT 65 PAGE Where is the largest foundling asylum in the world, and how is it supported? 139 Near what city are the "Sparrow Hills," and what fam- ous general first viewed this city from their heights? 144 Who was the founder of the present dynasty of Russian Tsars ? 158 "Khodynsky Pole" near Moscow is the scene of what fatal tragedy? 177 What great champion of industrial emancipation lived as a peasant on his estate near Moscow? 186 What views of religion, government, and the judiciary did Tolstoi express in his interview with Mr. Holmes? 189-190 In what church of Moscow are the Tsars crowned? 201 Describe the "Tsar of the Cannon" in the Kremlin 203 What is the weight of the largest bell ever cast in the world's history, and why has it never been hung or its voice heard ? 203-204 Give a brief resume of Russia's history as sketched by Mr. Holmes, from the evolution of the "Mother City" to the reign of the present dynasty 216-224 Define the Russian word "Vladivostok," the name of the prophetically christened harbor-city of Siberia 228 For what important reason did Russia early recognize the necessity of government ownership of the Trans- Siberian Railway? 229 How does the Russian official regard the camera, even along the route of the Trans-Siberian? 259 How has the completion of the Trans-Siberian Railway marked an epoch in the history of world transporta- tion ? 262 What international agreement enabled Russia to extend her railway across what is nominally a Chinese prov- ince? 318 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME NINE " Nature is a mutable cloud which is always and never the same." World Wonderful PAGE What are the '"Burning Mountains" of Russia? 70 Where and what is the most attractive and enterprising city i if Siberia ? 71 Where did Mr. Holmes witness a scene remarkable as an illustration of the confusion of races out of which Russia is evolving her eastern empire? 102 What eastern seaport of Russia is termed by Mr. Holmes "the wonderful new city, with its ugly architecture and its lovely situation"? 106 What Russian harbor is considered one of the most beauti- ful in the world? 109 What Chinese city is considered one of the ugliest, and at the same time one of the most beautiful cities in the world? 227 Where do we find the leafy groves, lotus lakes, islands and parks of the Imperial City? 232 How have the landscape gardeners of the Imperial City beautified "Imperial Park"? 258 What is the color of the lotus flower of China, and where do we find the beautiful "Lake of Lotus" spanned by the fam< >us Marble Bridge? 25S, 261 Describe the approach to the "Dragon Throne" as we enter the innermost enclosure, called the "Forbidden City" 268 Where in the Forbidden City do we find the gardens and temples < >f the Emper< >v? 268 ( Ibserve the splendid panorama of the First Court of the Forbidden City as shown in illustration 279 Describe the private gardens of the Emperor of China.. 295 In studying the China of yesterday from the Mill of Ten Thousand Ages, what will the traveler realize?. . 318 320 66 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME NINE 67 Geographical Settings PAGE What Cossack settlement in the heart of Siberia is the starting point for a trip "clown the Amur"? 5 The meeting of what two rivers forms the Amur? 13 What river of Siberia is termed "the great water-way to the Pacific"? 33 How long did it take Mr. Holmes to make the trip down the Amur ? 93 What is the distance between Vladivostok and St. Peters- burg? 108 Give the estimated population of the three largest cities in China 137 How far is it from Tien-Tsin to Peking, and what was formerly the mode of travel ? 146 Where do we find the Tartar City, or Manchu metropolis, and how is the Chinese city separated there- from? 232-233 Manners and Customs Describe the kindly "camaraderie" of the peasant-folk of Siberia 13 What is the characteristic reply of the Russian to all delays and disappointments? 63 The people of what nation are foremost in the commer- cial development of Siberia? 72 On what trip did Mr. Holmes have to sleep on the steam- er's paddle-box in order to secure accommodations? 90 What are the duties of the lamp-lighters along the Amur? 93 Emigrants from what nations are settling the eastern empire of Russia? 102 Describe the effect of the marching song of the conquer- ing Cossacks 112 Siberia is today a colossal monument to what three splen- did Muscovite qualities? 112 Where do we find millions of toilers, who, like ants, simply toil on and on without complaint or initiative? 135 68 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Why does the Chinaman delight to "changee dolla" for eleven dimes ? 152 What can be said of the enjoyableness of a trip in a typical Peking cart? 155 In what city are people sometimes drowned in the mud- puddles of their streets? 161 Study with Burton Holmes the ever-changing and fasci- nating street life of Peking 189 Where do we find the proverbial road "good for ten years and bad for ten thousand"? 190 THE AMUR RIVER 1 00 200 300 400 MILES ~. Describe a Chinese theater, and how the "Celestial" arrays, or disarrays himself for attendance 192 Are the funeral processions of the Oriental Chinese as somber as the occasion would seem to demand? 193 Mention some of the curious and interesting forms of Chinese hospitality 195 Does a Chinese dinner prove a delightful gastronomic inn< >vati< in ? 199 What Chinese Emperor seemed to have even a greater passion than Louis the Sixteenth for fantastic and ingenious time-pieces? 296 Entering the salon of the former Empress Dowager of China do we find the anticipated oriental splendor?. . 301 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME NINE 69 Architecture PAGE What is the Chien-men ? 162 Describe the "Fu," or palace, occupied by the American Board of Foreign Missions at the time of Mr. Holmes' visit 177 What is the arrangement of the palaces of the Forbidden City, and how arc they shut in? 231-232 Describe the walls around the City of Peking, and the arrangement of walls within walls in this Celestial City 232 How do we reach the Imperial Throne of the Manchus, once one of the world's mysteries and the central object of the Celestial Capital? 239 Where do we find the most beautiful piece of architecture in Peking, and to what religion was it dedicated?. ... 251 Looking at the "Forbidden City" northward from the "Coal Hill" what can be said as to its symmetrical grouping ? 265 Through how many arches and gates does Mr. Holmes pass on his way to the sacred palaces of the old Emperors of China ? 268-277 What can be said as to the general design of the outer gate as seen in illustration? 273 What is the material used for roofing on all buildings in the Forbidden City? 275 How many thrones rise like ornate altars in the dimness of three vast temple-like audience halls of the Imperial Palace ? 284 Where is there a throne "so delicately and so deeply sculptured that it might almost be said to be the immaterial ghost of the rare wood from which it was evolved by some unknown chiseler"? 289 Note colored plate of "The Throne of Chinese Majesty". . 225 In visiting the "Dragon Throne" room of China, what rare and invaluable works of art do we find buried 'neath the dust of neglect? 289 Would one consider the general plan and design of the private suites of the Emperor and Empress Dowager of China conducive to much privacy? 296 70 A ROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES i i r— irrn SIEpDQ □ 1 lift rsssisfiB PEKING. i ii. ill of the Classics. •_■ Temple of Confucius. :: Lama Temple. i The Pei-Tang. 5 Marble Bridge. 6 Lake of Lotus. 7 inn of Coal. 8 — Mohammedan Mosque. 9 — British Legation. 10 — American Legation. i i < (erman Legal Ion. 12 — Japanese Legation. 13 French Legation. i i Italian Legation. 15 Examination Hall. 1 6 < ' 1 1 i »■ 1 1 men. l 7 Temple of Agriculture. 18 — Temple of Heaven. OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME NINE 71 PAGE Study details of illustration so beautifully visualizing the "Pailow" or entrance to the Summer Palace of the Emperor of China 309 What does Mr. Holmes say of the wondrously strange charm of the Summer Palace of the Celestial Ruler? 313 In what way can we compare the Hill of Ten Thousand Ages with the Palatine at Rome? 316 Where do we find what Burton Holmes terms one of the "perfect" architectural creations of China? 330 How does the Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace com- pare as a work of art with the Taj Mahal and the Parthenon ? 330 Education and Religion Just after the Boxer rebellion, how do we find the "Temple of Heaven" defiled by commerce ? 153 Describe the Buddhism of the Celestial Empire, and the Lamas or "holy men" of the Confucian faith 184 What venerable Catholic Bishop held at bay the hostile population of Peking for two months during the Boxer rebellion ? 219 What is the most sacred altar in all China ? 245 Note the beautiful illustrations of this altar as well as the construction of the Temple 246-247 What Chinese temple marks the Center of the World?. . . . 248 Describe the exquisite beauty of the interior of the "Tem- ple of Heaven" 252 For what purpose, other than artistic pictorial treatment, are the huge marble slabs found in the center of the stairways to the Temple of Heaven? 252 How has nature joined with man in beautifying the entrance to this most wonderful Temple? 253 What ceremony sacred to the Imperial Son of Heaven was annually enacted within the Temple of Agriculture in Peking? 255 How do the superstitious Chinese endeavor to propitiate the wind and water spirits that, according to their belief, bless or curse the neighborhood? 324 72 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE What has become of the great bronze Buddha which formerly sat in stale in the gorgeous Porcelain Temple, on the summit of the Ilill of Ten Thousand Ages ? 325 History and Government How has Russia removed the stigma from Siberia? 75-76 Where and by whom were three thousand Chinese driven into a river too deep for wading and too swift for swimming ? 77 How is the colonization of Siberia managed by the Rus- sians ? 101 What does Burton Holmes say of Peking in 1901 and the entrance and retirement of Christendom at the time of the Boxer Rebellion? 115-117 What commodity is received in such large quantities by the Chinese government as tribute that it looks like a low range of mountains ascending from the river bank? 141 During the siege of Tien-Tsin, how did a vague command to "Advance left or right, it makes no difference; but hurry" result in the decimation of the Ninth American Infantry? 145 Where do we find the oldest newspaper in the world?. . . 202 How has the Chinese Government marked the site of the assassination of the ( ierman Minister in 1900? 223 Where do we find the anomaly of "a present that is in reality the past, and of a past that still remains the present"? 257 Where is located the "llill o|" Coal" which, according to tradition, was accumulated by the Emperors of old in preparatii in f< ir a siege? 262 How were the gates to the Imperial City formerly guarded, and whom do we find in command at the time of Mr. Holmes' visit? 265, 267 What woman, once ruler of a nation that doggedly be- lieves women have no souls, proved herself stronger and greater than any man in her country? 302 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME XIXE 73 PAGE In what historic army ambulance once in service in the Philippines, does Air. Holmes take his trip to the summer palace of the celestial ruler? 309 Tell the history of the curious imperial barge of marble, and how does it demonstrate that "bribery" is of the past as well as the present? 315 How have the art-loving sons of Italy, who guarded some of the sacred and beautiful wonders of China, wreaked their vengeance for the deeds of Attila and his bar- barians ? 325 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TEN " IIuw happy is the nation whoso people can find a satisfying pleasure in the mere contemplation of the things that Nature freely sets before them." World Wonderful PACK A visit to what capital is considered by Mr. Holmes "one i 'i" the chi licest tidbits i »n the menu < »f m< idem travel" ? 5 Where is the country known as "Cho-Sen," or the land of the morning" freshness? 5, 77 Why does Mr. Holmes call the approach to the chief port of Korea "an enchanted archipelago"? 10 Where is the mysterious and beautiful forest aisle, twenty miles in length, leading to the Mecca of Japan? 136 Read Mr. Holmes' beautiful tribute to nature in his de- scription of the view of Nikko from the mausoleum on the mountain-top 160 Visit with Mr. Holmes the finest waterfall in all Japan, a mighty crystal column more than three hundred feet in height 166 When is the cherry-blossom season of Japan, and what can be said as to the fruit of the Japanese cherry-tree? 245 When do the iris flowers o\ Japan spread out their rain- bow hues on the green carpets of the gardens, and the wistaria trellises envelope the dainty tea-houses in a purple haze? 247 What is the national flower of Japan, and cite an example of its wonderful growth? 248 Where is the "Emerald Isle of the Orient" and why is it so called? 281 Why is the word "Fairyland" so descriptive of Japan?... 285 Though from a distance Fuji san even in wintry aspect may seem a beautiful "illusion built of violet mist and decked with slender drifts of cloud," of what is it really composed? 309 74 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TEN 75 PAGE Where could you visit with Air. Holmes a glorious out-of- door cathedral, with "pinnacles of rock for spires, maple-decked valleys for aisles and chapels, great trees for pillars, and the eternal vault of blue for its dome" ? 333 KOREA 50 100 150 200 C'tiT/ C k O $ & - l( H ^* _^ £ *y PACIFIC OCJEAN - ; H_ Geographical Settings What is the usual approach to Korea ? How long is the voyage from the Japanese port of Naga- saki to Korea ? Leaving Taku, Peking's port, how do we reach Korea?. . . 76 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE What is the chief port of Korea? Describe the pictur- esque approach thereto 10 What is the population of Korea, and what can be said of the fertility of its soil? 11 Where and what is the most important port of the Mika- do's Empire ? 128 What is the capital of Japan and how great is its popu- lation ? 228 Japan has had how many capitals, and what has become of these imperial cities? 286 Give the height of the sacred mountain of Japan 306 Describe the famous inland sea ^i Japan 328 Architecture What is considered the great sight oi Seoul, and of what is it a modest replica ? 35 What is left of the old arch where the Korean King was wont to receive the emissaries of the Emperor of China, and what is the inscription on the new arch?. . 78 Why does the Korean home remind the t<>nrist ci a "magic cabinet"? S3 How many buildings of inestimable richness comprise the mausolem of Japan's greatest ruler? 142 From the standpoint of architectural beauty compare a royal Japanese man-oleum with the various styles ^\ architecture common to occidental countries, as de- scribed by Mr. Holmes 145 Note the simplicity and fragile character of a Japanese dwelling ....' 194 Describe the excpiisite gem of the architecture ^i another age found in the gate of llarnna Has foreign architecture gained much oi a foothold in Japan ? 267 ribe the walls surrounding the court <f what docs the furniture of a Japanese home consist?. . 242 Describe the convincingly amiable geisha girl of Japan . 257-258 From what is the "sake" of Japan distilled, and how is it served? 260, 263 the artistic grace of the geisha dancers as described and illustrated 264-265 What is the first law of Japanese etiquette? 268 ribe the "hara kiri" which in old Japan was the only honorable death for a man in disgrace 277 I low do the actors on a Japanese stage make their appear- ance, and how are the scenes shifted? 278 How long does a Japanese play usually last, and in what way is the patron supplied with something to eat?.. 2S0 In what lies the great charm i if Japan ? 308 Industrial Life Who are the "gigi boys" ir of Japan bi >ast ? 118 Who was the first Emperor of Japan, and how many hun- dred years before Christ did he reign? 118 What dot's Mr. Holmes say concerning ancient and pres- ent civilizati" in i »i' Japan ? 1 19 Who were the Shoguns of Japan, and how great was their power? 120 What great feudal chief and power behind the throne of the Mikados founded the present city of Tokyo? '. .152-153 Iiow was a state of strong feudalism maintained in Japan previous to Commodore Perry's imperious summons in 1853? '. 154-155 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TEX 83 PAGE Why are the birthdays of all Japan celebrated on the same day of the year? 210 Relate the famous dramatized story of "The Forty-seven Ronin" who died because their master's name and honor were to them the most sacred things on earth 274 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ELEVEN " Twixt islo and isle, twixt sky and sea. : ' World Wonderful PAGE Give Mr. Holmes' first impression of the gorgeous Poin- ciana Regia — the flowering tree that beautifies the residential streets of Honolulu 14 Note how delightfully Burton Holmes compares Hawaii to "a delicate and unprotected piece of pottery sent by its guardians to a certain Uncle Sam, who has a passion for insular ceramics" 52 Describe the coral-belt, and the deadly coral reef of the Pearl Lochs of 1 tawaii 68 Where do we find the largest volcanic crater in the world? 74 Describe the dead crater of I faleakala, "The Palace of the Sun" 74 Note the three splendid illustrations of this wonderful phenomenon of nature 75. 7t<. 79 84 OBSERVATIONS ATA VOLUME ELEVEN 85 PAGE Standing at the edge of the extinct volcano Haleakala, 10,000 ft. above the level of the ocean, what two famous volcanoes are discerned in the distance, the craters of which rise 4000 ft. higher into the "heavenly seas"? 77 How do the "eternal snows" of Manna Kea pay tribute to the lovely lowlands of Hawaii, where "eternal summers" dwell ? 82-83 What Hawaiian volcano, whose crater is six miles in cir- cumference, is fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, sixty miles in diameter, and two hundred miles around its base? 88 Coming down the volcano from "Kilauea" how has Burton Holmes described "Nature's Fernery"? Note illus- tration 96 What tall tree of Hawaii is so beautifully entwined from root to very tip with the "ieie"? 104 Read Mr. Holmes' beautiful description of the sunset at Hilo on the island of Hawaii Ill Of what other English stronghold does the "Peak" remind the tourist as his ship enters the harbor at Victoria? 126 Describe the Praya of Victoria on the island of Hongkong 130 Geographical Settings What is the distance from San Francisco to the palm- fringed shores of Hawaii ? 5 Where do we find the sole safe harbor of Hawaii, and in what way is it so perfectly adapted to the needs of a modern naval power? 67 What theory has been advanced of the formation of the island of Hawaii? 103 What city is termed the commercial gateway to South China? 116 What two ocean pathways lead across the Pacific to the Philippines and China? 119 Compare the population of the province of Kuangtung, China, with the state of Kansas 126 How does the temperature of the "Peak" of Hongkong compare with that of the lower town ? 158 86 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE What is the population of 1 [ongkong? 159 What city on the edge of China is the third seaport of the world ? 160 How do we reach Canti in fr< >m 1 [< >ngki ing? 165 Where can he seen the first and for many years the only lighthouse on the Chinese coast? 165 Where and what is the Shameen, in China? 1/7 Is Canton on land or water, and what is its population?. . . . 197 1 1< iw long does it take tn cmss the China Sea fr< >m Hongkong to Manila 228 Manners and Customs Y\ here do we find an "ever-present" gar- land of flowers characteristic of the native dress? 10 In what way did the holoku, or Mother Hubbard, become the universal dress of the 1 lawaiian W( mien ? 11 The root of what plant forms the staple article of food for the native p< tpulation of J lawaii ? 42 How do the llawaiians prepare the "poi," the favorite dish of the natives of these islands? 45 Describe the "lanai" of the I lawaiian residence 53 Following the old adage that "fingers were made before forks' how does the average American enjoy the native Hawaiian feast? 54 Take a fishing trip with Burton Holmes to the shark- infested water- of Pearl Harbor 67 What is the meaning of the Hawaiian "tabu"? 80 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ELEVEN 87 PAGE Tell of some of the prohibitions, or "tabus" placed upon the Hawaiians by the chiefs and priests of pagan days 80 What was the penalty for breaking the "tabus"? 81 Give Mark Twain's recipe for securing a night's rest in the mosquito-infested regions 98 Why does Mr. Holmes term China a colossal puzzle?. ... 115 Compare the construction of the ofhce buildings of Hong- kong with the "skeletons of steel" of the United States 130 From what nation has England selected the police of Vict. >ria ? 137 In the language of the East what is the term for the mid- day meal ? 153 Before the advent of the electric fan how did the Chinese keep the dining-rooms cool and restful? 153 By what novel conveyance does the tourist explore the island of Hongkong? 156 How does Mr. Holmes describe the streets of Canton? 182, 186 Do the names and appearance of Canton streets seem paradoxical to the tourist? 188 How does the Chinese clock differ from the imported article ? 193 Into what time units is the Chinese day divided? 193 What is the monetary unit of China? 196 Describe a Chinese dinner party 201 What are some of the necessary and costly Chinese cere- monials attendant upon the death of a parent? 207 In what country is the generation of today chained to the generations of the past, and how? 214 Why does Mr. Holmes speak of the Filipino bed as a "sleeping machine" ? 249 What is the Filipino method of polishing a hardwood floor? 267 Describe a typical Filipino house? . 317 Industrial Life What does Burton Holmes say of the business world of Honolulu ? 29 38 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE What people are cultivating the fertile regions of Hawaii, and thus wresting from the native the heritage of the soil ? 47 What is the most important industry of 1 lawaii? 87 What is the chief product of the valleys of 1 lawaii? 103 Ascending the mountain sides name the various industries that yield so bountifully to the planter 103 Visit a typical coffee plantation in the Puna District of Hawaii 108 How many years before the coffee-planter can expect to realize on his investment? 109 What does Mr. Holmes say of the industry of the Chinese in Victoria? 134 As a commercial seaport, what is the rank of the city of Victoria, on the island of 1 longkong? 160 Compare the industrial problem of China with that of England 178 Visit with Mr. Holmes some of the sh. ps of Canton 192 How does the pawnshop rank with other business enter- prises of China ? 195 What is the name of the busiest and most interesting street in Manila? 253 Where do we find a metal church that has the appearance of solid stone? 254 Describe the carabao or water-buffalo of Manila 268 With what native products do the little Filipino merchant- women tempt the traveler in old Manila? 276 Education and Religion As we pass Molokai, the leper island, recall the beautiful sacrifice of the Belgian priest whom Stevenson so aptly describes as "the man who shut with his own hands the d< m >r i »f his i >wn sepulchre" 73 In the old pagan faith of the Hawaiians what goddess was supposed to dwell in the crater of Kilauea volcano? 94 What royal princess, a convert to the new faith, defied the gods of Hawaii, and like Elijah of old, "mocked the priests of Baal and cried unto the 'Lord God of Israel"' 94 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ELEVEN 89 PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 90 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE Where in Hawaii do we find a city seemingly dedicated to the "Water God" because of the almost constant downpour of rain ? 100 Where in China do we find an ancient garden grotto sacred to the epic poet of Portugal ? 169 What will you see on a visit to a Buddhist temple with Mr. Holmes? 219 Where do we find "a god to every eight feet of space". . . . 220 Have the Chinese a religious creed? 220 What is the great ambition of the Chinese boy? 221 Is the mass of learning absorbed by the Chinese student of practical use ? 222 Describe the old "examination boxes" of Canton 222 Give the three degrees necessary to become "Expectants of Office" in China 223 What is the teaching of Confucius regarding woman?. . . . 224 For what religion was Manila at one time an oriental stronghold ? 287 How do the Filipinos regard the monastic orders in Manila ? 297 History and Government How did a former king of Hawaii o imbine the flags of two great countries in his design for the Hawaiian flag?. . 22 Where does the wind blow so hard that "if you open your mouth you can't shut it again until you get in the lee of something" ? 40 What historic event occurred near this spot? 40 In how many languages is it necessary to issue the edicts and proclamations of the Hawaiian Government?... 49 Who first discovered the Hawaiian Islands and placed this archipelago upon a Spanish chart? 78 Tell the story of Captain Cook's landing at the Hawaiian Isles, his reception as a god, and his death 78-80 What nation builded Hongkong as a stronghold for its commerce? 134 1 [ow ilid I [ongkong become subject to England? 159 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME ELEVEN 91 PAGE Through the influence of what poet was the Portuguese language preserved when threatened with extinction by Spanish occupation? 170 Where do we find one of the best equipped and largest "money-factories" in the world? 195 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWELVE " w? 22 Explain the phenomenon of terrace-building found in the Yellowstone Xational Park 2 24 How long must the water labor before it increases the rim of a terrace an inch in height? 23 Xame some of the mythical deities honored by the forma- tions which bear their names in the Xational Park. . 25 Xote the illustration of the Minerva Terrace 25 The beauties of the terraces of the Yellowstone are I -" revealed at what hour? 26 What spring- committed suicide by building up its crater to such height that the waters, unable at last to reach the I rsook the stately pile? 26 •ibe a typical morning's start, and the splendid trans- portation facilil - the trip through the "Wonder- land of America'* 27 Why is the title of the "Golden Gate'' doublj How much did the construction of the last mile of road- way through what is aptly named "Golden Gate" cost the government ? 28 92 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWELVE 93 As we pass the golden portals of the Park what range of mountains with an average altitude of over 10,000 ft. is discerned in the distance? PAGE 29 What mountain in the Yellowstone seems to be the great affinity of the lightning, thus giving the explorer quite a "shocking" experience? 30 Describe the obsidian cliff or glass mountain 30 Note illustration of this famous cliff 33 94 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE What hunting story has been circulated illustrating the transparency of the obsidian cliff, a story comparing favorably with the "fish stories" so often narrated? 34 How many lakes and waterfalls are found in the Yellow- stone National Park, and what would happen if this forest-covered region should become a barren waste? 41 Has the United States Government adopted any means for the preservation of the forests of the Yellowstone? 42 What fine does the government impose upon the tourist who is found carrying unsealed weapons through this Park? 43 How does Burton Holmes answer the following questions which appeared in a daily paper: How large is Yellowstone Park? Is it surrounded by a fence? What is the fence made of? 44 What is a geyser basin ? 46 According to the generally accepted definition, what is the theory of geyser action ? 50-54 Note the pictures of "Old Faithful" 50, 51, 53, 55 What geyser older than the pyramids marks time as faith- fully today as it did when the divine clockmaker first put together its more than mysterious mechanism? 57 To what height does this geyser shoot a mass of steaming hot water and for how long a period ? 57 What geyser spends seven years in preparation, and then begins a series of imposing outbursts? 59 What one word describes the Paint-pots, where a clay slush is constantly in a state of ebullition, ejecting a tiny spout of what looks like vanilla or strawberry ice-cream ? 60 Describe the Morning Glory Spring. Is its illusion of blueness variable? 65 Where in the Yellowstone do we rind a lakelet wooed by two mighty suitors — the Atlantic and the Pacific?.. 66 Are there any known lakes of the elevation of Lake Yel- 1< >wstone that surpass it in area ? 68 How has nature provided a means for the prompt and con- venient cooking of fish caught in the icy waters of Yellowstone Lake ? 75 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWELVE 95 PAGE As we gaze upon the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone what produces the color that in its vividness seems "like a mine of precious stones, uncovered to amaze and dazzle the sun itself" ? 86 Viewing the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone from Look- out Point can the tourist realize the magnitude of the hundreds of what seem to be "reproductions of Gothic forms of Occidental architecture with an opulence of color that is more than Oriental" ? 97 THE GRAND CANON OF ARIZONA How many great buildings, each as high as the twenty- one stories of the Masonic Temple in Chicago, if piled one upon another, would equal the height of some of the great natural walls of the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone ? 98 Compare the brilliant many-hued chasm below the Yel- lowstone Falls, and the misty, shadowy nave with its somber pine-clad walls through which the river flows on toward the Park boundary 102-103 What, according to Mr. Holmes, is the generating process necessary before one can absorb the glories of the Grand Canon of Arizona ? 116 Name the second oldest city in the United States, and tell where it is located 119 96 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE I >escribe the cliff-dwellings to be found in Walnut Canon, near Flagstaff, Ariz. Note illustrations 123-125 Read Captain Dutton's splendid tribute to tbe beauties of the Grand Canon of Arizona as quoted by Mr. Holmes 146 Study the pictured panorama of the Canon 146 [f but one of the stupendous creations found in the Grand Canon of Arizona bad been planted upon the plains of Central Europe, what, in the estimation of a well- known geologist, would have been its influence upon modern art? ....• 150 Is there any present evidence of an unknown people that at one time inhabited the summits of the Grand Canon ? 153 Is it possible to descend the Grand Canon to the level of the Colorado? 155 How docs Mr. Holmes describe his impressions of the descent into the Canon? 159 What is the difference in altitude between the river level and the summit of the wall of the Grand Canon?. . . . 162 Standing on the river bank can the tourist realize the full majesty of the Canon walls ? 163 If the existence of the Grand Canon is but transitory how does Mr. Holmes explain the fact that "before man was, the Canon had been"? 173 What was the aspect of the Grand Canon region before the Colorado laid bare the layers of colored rock? 174 How do geologists account for the wonderful formations to be found in the Grand Canon of Arizona? 174 If the region of what is now the Grand Canon of the Ari- zona was at one time raised by some mysterious and internal force to a height of 18,000 feet, how can its present level of 8,000 feet be explained? 174 Explain how the waters of the Colorado have utilized the natural tools of sand and grit and through the cen- turies patiently chiseled a groove between the slowly uplifting plateau 177 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME TWELVE 97 TAGE Does the present Canon of Arizona represent even one- half of the work accomplished by the waters of the Colorado, and if not, why not? 178 Study the illustrations of nature's architecture "gnawed by the teeth of ages" 178-179 What is the length and width of the Grand Canon of the Arizona ? 179 Compare this with the width of the Colorado River, the initial maker of this abyss of wonder 179 Are the waters of the Colorado the only agents at work on this "never-to-be-completed enterprise of nature"? 180-183 Descend with Burton Holmes along Berry's Grand View Trail, to where the river is busy carving its pathway through the never-vanquished granite 193 Compare the mighty citadel of rock a thousand feet above the Algerian plateau on which is throned the city of Constantine, and the hundreds of imitations of this "rocky pedestal" found in the Grand Canon 194 Where do we find two natural theaters, carved by the blind forces of earth, more wonderful than the archi- tectural marvels of Greece, Italy and Sicily? 195 Can the far-famed Taormina offer to the spectator a more lovely vista than the scenic wonders surrounding America's antique temples? 196 How does Mr. Holmes aptly estimate the relative value of the Canon of the Yellowstone and the Inner Gorge of the Colorado ? 205 Who was Major Powell ? 207 Describe his thrilling ride for more than a thousand miles on the mad waters rushing through the dark Canon of the Colorado 207-214 Had the river channel been explored prior to Major Powell's trip? 207 How do the people of other nations put the Americans to shame for their lack of knowledge of one of the great- est marvels in the world? 214 98 ARl )UND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE How have the Spanish on several occasions explored the Grand Canon, and where in Spain were the descrip- tions of this wonderland filed eighty years before the landing of the Pilgrims? 218 Architecture Where do we find villages looking so much like cyclopean citadels that a passing tourist might starve at their very threshold without knowledge of the nearness of plenty? 248 What village, which reminds us of a Grecian acropolis, is every two years the scene of the famous snake dance of the Molds ? ... 252 Study the detail of the Mold architecture as given in the illustration 255 How can the people of a Mold village wander from one structure to another without stepping into the streets or plazas ? 257 Of what are the Moki homes built, and how are chimneys ingeniously contrived to carry off the smoke from the inside fire-places? 267 Manners and Customs In what way do the Molds of Arizona differ from the other Pueblo tribes? 227 What is the Arizona slang term for tinned goods, and of what does a desert lunch chiefly consist? 234 Where do we find a law demanding the ear of the donkey for the ear of corn he may surreptitiously eat? 247 How do the I topi people hag their game? 253 Do the men or women do the dressmaking in Mold land, and what can be said as to the "lasting quality" of their clothes? 261 Describe the unique coiffure of the I topi girl 262-264 Does the American debtitante outrival her Hopi sisters in the matter of jewelry ? 263 OBSERVATIONS MA VOLUME TWELVE 99. PAGE How does the Moki housekeeper prepare the yeast for fermentation ? 271 Compare the time consumed by the native Hopi runner through the sands of the Arizona desert, with that of the traveler making the same trip on horseback. . 283 How are the snakes, which are later to be used in the cere- monial dance, prepared for the event? 294-297 How do the snake priests array themselves for the dance? Note illustration which so well deoicts the costumes. . 302 <5 p % t • Is V r .. f T_ —r** COCONINO v- -J *■") r FOREST /arizona /O 50 100 - "7 " " TRIFIED )REST o ■ w i | ! MOKI ! \ ! RESERVE ! 4/ Vto Sj" J RUINS .OF^CLIFF ! C 4£ Y* 1 A '^DWELLINGS °* \% i / i * T i i "^ ^ eV C^N^ ^~ i WILES Industrial Life Where will seven cartridges buy one pound of crackers? 236 What is the staple product of the Moki farmer? 242 After noting the illustration, would a Kansas farmer con- sider a Moki cornfield very profitable? 243 Are there other products than corn profitably grown by the Moki Indians? 244 Why is farming in Moki land a "pursuit" in more ways than one ? 24? Is the term "poor Indian" applicable to the Navajo nation? 320 Education and Religion What aroused the Hopi people against Christianity, and how did they dispose of the priests whom the Span- iards left to rule them ? 255 ioo AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PACK What can be said of the religion of the Mokis? 256 Are the Moki people grateful for the mission and govern- ment schools, and how do they accept our teach- ings? 266, 274 In what way do the Hopi mothers teach the little children to know the different gods of their religion ? 272 In the religious rites of the Hopi people what is the chief and never-absent aspiration? 177 What secret conclave is held by the Antelope and Snake societies in preparation for their famous snake dance, and according to the Moki belief what would happen to the outsider who might venture to gain admission to this gathering? 278 Beginning seven days before the dance how do the Moki people endeavor to propitiate the spirits of the dif- ferent desert shrines ? • 281 According to the Hopi belief, what messengers are most ] (leasing to the great spirits who control the "hydraulics of the sky"? 287 Read Burton Holmes' clear description of the Snake Dance, which for ages has been a symbolic ceremonial of the Mokis 304 History and Government By what people were the Mokis discovered and when?.. 227 Where do we find Moki Land, and how many villages are now inhabited by this strange tribe of the pueblos?. 227 What people, although full-fledged citizens of the United States, with the right to vote, have never exercised their franchise? 251 By what treaty was this franchise granted? 251 What is the meaning of the word "Moki" and how has it become the universal appellation for the cliff dwellers of Arizona? 251 Give the definition of the word "Hopi," the original name for the Mokis 251 Where is the Painted Desert of America, and why do we know so little about it ? 335 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THIRTEEN "Roll down, roll down to Rio; I want to roll to Rio Some time before I'm old." — Kipling. Manners and Customs PAGE What name is given generally to all inhabitants of North America by the people of South America ? 8 What social restrictions are discovered by travelers unac- quainted with South American customs ? 10 Have the progress and achievements of the people of the southern continent been generally known by the people in North America ? 8 What spirit prevails between the countries of Brazil and Argentina ? 11 What indication is unconsciously given of the amusement loving character of the people? 11 How does the Hippodrome of Palermo compare with the fa- mous race tracks of Europe ? 206 Does cleanliness plav a part in the decorative scheme of Rio?. 37 What is "mate"?. .' 311 What is the usual Paraguayan greeting? 310 How does the famous Chilean dance appear to the northern observer ? 261 The stranger to South American customs receives what im- pression when he sees the cortege of a Bishop of Chile?. 263 Chilean names indicate what nationality as taking a prominent place in the making of the history of the country? 272 What characterizes the home life of the wealthy Chilean family ? 278 In what way do social customs of Chile differ from those of North America ? 282 In what garb do the women of Chile appear in public 286 The city of Santiago is graced by what unique feature?. . . . 291 How does Mr. Holmes compare Chile and Argentina? 258 Where is courtesy the rule rather than the exception? 48 101 102 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PAGE In what country did the beggars ride on horse back? 2_M What curious name is given to an Insane Asylum? 172 Where in South America is there a strange cemetery? 127 What is said of the Villa Dolores? 126 What is a "Commercial Indicator"'? 64 Note the ample accommodation for passengers in the trolley cars of Chile .280 The Paode Assucar is reached by what unusual method of transportation ? 80 Geographical Where is the most beautiful harbor in the world? 33 How does it excel in beauty ? 30 Rio de Janeiro is how many days distant from New York? From London ? 9 Which route is the more interesting and why ? 9 What port of South America transfers passengers from ship to tender in a basket ? 16 Of what State is Recife the capital ? 18 How does the area of Brazil compare with that of the United States ? 9 What is the population of Brazil? 9 What peculiar formation predominates in the mountains of eastern Brazil? 86 What is the "Sugar-loaf" and where is it situated ? 79 Why is the Gavea so called ? 76 Which is the largest city of South America ? 219 Where is the "River of Silver"? 11 ( > From what does the city of Montevideo take its name? 121 What description is given of the Pampa? 230 How many hours' journey by rail from Buenos Aires to Valparaiso ? 268 What is called the "back door of Argentina" ? 251 What river forms one of the boundaries between Brazil and the Argentine Republic? 297 What cataracts are supreme among the natural wonders of the world 2'^ Where i^ the Uspallata Pass? 254 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THIRTEEN 103 PAGE What memorial object is placed there ? 256 Is the "Bridge of the Inca" natural or artificial? 248 How does Air. Holmes compare the Andes to other mountain ranges ? 248 What description is given of the wonderful color effects in the Andes ? 244 MILES Where is Aconcagua ? 249 What country is the dominating power of the Western coast ? 269 The capital of Chile has what unique feature? 291 In what manner did Mr. Holmes and his party descend to Las Cuevas from the Uspallata Pass ? 257 104 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMICS PAGE Note the mirror-like surface and the clear reflections in the Laguna del Inca as shown in the picture Mr. Holmes gives us 260 What great disaster almost destroyed Valparaiso in 1906! >77 Industries and Occupations What city is the greater export port of South America?. . . . 219 What section of South America supplies the markets of the world with rubber? 91 Sugar is the principal product of what two South American states? 91 What is the normal production of coffee in Brazil? 91 What city in Brazil is the center of the coffee trade 92 What part has the North American had in the development of Santos as an important port? Ill Where has capital been found to bring the results obtained? 112 What port is the chief outlet for the coffee crops? 107 What is the story of the origin of the custom of coffee drinking? . . ' ' 102 Describe the coffee fazendas of Brazil? 105 What industries supply the wealth of Argentina? 220 What can be said of the shops of Buenos Aires? 157 Is the capacity of the South American ports equal to their commerce ? 134 To the agency of what North American Corporation is Rio de Janeiro's phenomenal growth largely due? 82 What is a "rotos"? 270 For what is Mendoza famous? 238 What is a "guacho"? 234 What part does the guacho play in the development of the wealth of the country? 234 I low dors the traveler ascend to the peak of the almost per- pendicular Corcovado ? 73 What railway line is described by Mr. Holmes as "mis- managed by the < rovernment" and why? "2 I low many railway lines radiate from Buenos Aires? 231 What peculiar feature for a high and dry inland city is seen in the park at Mendoza ? 240 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THIRTEEN 105 PAGE What is meant by the "Transandino" ? 242 Where arc women employed as conductors on trolly lines?. . 276 For what purpose are the "frigorificos" used? 302 What idea does the picture of the grain elevators give of the productiveness of the wheat fields of Argentina?. . 136 MILCS What is meant by "Estancia"? , . 222 Is the Pampa provided with sufficient means of transporta- tion for its immense yields? 2M How many hours does it take to cross the level stretches of the 1 'ampa ? 229 What is Mr. Holmes' estimate of the great transcontinental railway line of South America ? 227 History and Government What city of South America was, for two hundred years, the seat of Portuguese colonial power in the New W< >rld ? 20 What is the predominating color of the population of Bahia? 22 Who were the rival discoverers of the Bay of Rio? 45 106 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HQLMES PAGE By what chance was Brazil discovered? 43 To what race do the people of South America belong? 6 Has the enterprise of the people of South America been appreciated by the people of North America? 6 To what two men, father and son, are the Brazilians deeply indebted ? 68 Are governmental crises as frequent as in former days? 7 What has, in a great measure, given stability and permanency to the present forms of government? 7 The Monroe Doctrine was adopted because of what European ni( tvement ? 39 The year 1871 is memorable for the passing of what important law? 41 Plow has Germany availed herself of the opportunities offered by the development of Brazil ? 97 Why is Paraguay called a "land of widows"? 309 Who is the national hero of Argentine? 241 What voyageur named South America "The Island of the Holy Cross" ? 75 Has Italy taken any part in the development of South America ? 98 To what great leader are the people of South America indebted for their liberty? 178 What distinguishing mark of training does the army of Chile bear? 290 Of what does the military maneuvers of Bahia remind the observer ? 27 What significance has the 25th of May to the people of Argentina? 182 Who is the father of the school system of Argentina and how- is he honored? L90 The French Huguenots gave what name to the country when they made their first settlement in 1558? 46 How does Brazil honor the memor) of the Kin Brancos?. ... 40 the word "Brazil" indicate why the country of that name is so called? 47 Who are called "I 'ortenos" ? 147 What city of South America was the capital Hi Portugal for thirteen \ear-? 71 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THIRTEEN 107 Architecture How does Buenos Aires rank with the great cities of the world ? The architecture of w hat ancient city is sug- gested by its houses? 9 What is the general effect of the city of Rio de Janeiro on the observer? .... 35 What comparison is drawn be- t w e e n N e w York and Rio de Janeiro?. . . 33 What two Aveni- das does Mr. Holmes call especially mag- nificent? 36 Where are the pavements o f mosaic ? 37 W h a t Cathedral brings a grace- ful tribute to Greek Art from Mr. Holmes?.. 180 Is the Teutonic in- fluence any- where visible in the homes of the people ? 97 "A model thoroughfare" is to be found in what city ? 67 Note the "elevadors" connecting lower and upper Bahia. . 24 108 AROUND THE WORLD WITH BURTON HOLMES PACK In what terms does Mr. Holmes describe the architecture of Rio ? 64 In what manner has Rio de Janeiro availed herself of the decorative possibilities of her water front ? 37 The first "City Beautiful" of the New World is said to be in what country of South America? 80 Do the cemeteries display artistic feeling in their monuments and mausolea? 197 What comparison with other cities may be made with regard to the beant_\- of the Avenidas of Buenos Aire-? 162 Where is "All Saints Bay"? 19 What does Mr. Holmes characterize as one of the supreme sights of the earth? 74 What remarkable arrangement has Buenos Aires made to beautify a utilitarian object? 174 Why is the "Casa Rosada" so called? 184 How is excellence in Architecture encourage 1 by the .Munici- pality of Buen< '- Aire- ? 166 What representative Hotel does Mr. Holmes describe in Brazil? 140 What does he say of the hotel at the Falls of [guassu? 518 J low do i lie houses of Montevideo promise a future grandeur? 124 Education and Religion Are the South Americans linguists ? 61 What is the status of the drama in Brazil? 98 Is the music of the World's greatest singers appreciated by the South American to the same degree as in other countries? 212 Note tlie magnificence of the Gallery of Fine Arts a- shown by Mr. Holmes ". 149 What religion prevails in Bahia ? 28 What South American city has a "church for every day in the year and one extra for leap year?" 28 What city does Mr. Holmes call the "Mecca of the Argen- tine"? 238 What curious contrast is found in the religion and politics of Buenos Aire- ': 125 OBSERVATIONS VIA VOLUME THIRTEEN 109 PAGE How does the Argentine pronunciation differ from that of the Castilian ? 167 What eulogy do we read upon the life work of Domenico Sarmiento ? 193 Where is the finest opera house in the world ? 209 In what degree do the South Americans observe the social requirements ? 210 Which is designated as the most pious city of South America? 232 What is the general tone of the representative newspaper of Argentina? 215 Do the affairs of North America appeal to the newspapers of South America? 217 What great treaty is commemorated by the Christ of the Andes ? 256 Travel Tips on Travel Trips Containing Suggestions for Real or Imaginary Journeys Written by ADELAIDE M. WOOD A WORD FROM THE PUBLISHERS '"PHE reader following the itinerary of the Burton Holmes A Travelogues will enjoy many delightful surprises as he journeys northward from the Mediterranean to Norway, tours Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific, makes a number of stops on his trip south to the Philippines, and crosses the broad Pacific to some of the wonder-spots of America. Because of these changes in clime and scene, many questions as to general prepara- tion for travel will naturally arise, and it is the purpose of this little booklet, with which Mr. Holmes has no editorial connection, to furnish the reader with a few suggestions as to the countries and places of interest visited in the Burton Holmes Travelogues. The information for "Travel Tips on Travel Trips" has been furnished by Adelaide M. Wood, who has spent many years in actual travel and the study of travel information. We believe that the reader, as well as the traveler, will find much of pleasing interest and lasting value in the offered suggestions. THE PUBLISHERS. TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE General Suggestions 5 Into Morocco, the Land of Yesterday A Pilgrimage to Fez, the Metropolis of the Moors 8 Through the Heart of the Moorish Empire 9 A Little Journey to the Cities of the Barbary Coast. . 10 Oases of the Algerian Sahara, a Trip to the "Garden of Allah - ' 12 Southern Spain, Land of the Hidalgo and the Don. ... 13 To the Olympian Games in Athens 15 Grecian Tourneys by Carayan Around the Historic Pelo- ponnesus 16 The Wonders of Thessaly, the Country of the Meteora 18 Egypt, the Land of the Pyramids and the Sphinx 19 To Southern Italy, the Land of Sunshine and Song. ... 21 Through Switzerland, the Playground of Europe 23 Round About Paris, or a Trip to the Quaint Corners of the French Capital 25 A Pilgrimage to Oberammergau, the Passion Play Vil- lage 27 Cycling Through Corsica, the La .yd of the Vendetta.. 23 A Trip to London, the Metropolis of the World 29 Sightseeing in Paris, the City Magnificent 30 Berlin, the City of the Kaiser 31 xorway, the land of the mldnight sun 7)3 Touring Sweden, Where the Boats "Go Up Hill" 34 A Journey to Denmark, the Island Kingdom 36 To St. Petersburg, the Imperial City of Russia 37 To Moscow, the Magnificent City of the Muscoyites. . 39 Trans-Siberian Railway, Through a Land of Promise.. 40 A Trip Down the Amur, the Great Gateway to the Pacific 4 2 A Sojourn in Peking, the Capital of China 43 The Forbidden City, or a Visit to the Home of "The Sox of Heaven" 45 TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE An Excursion to Seoul, the Metrqpolis of the "Land of the Morning Calm" 46 A Jaunt Into the Interior of Japan, from Nikko to the Rapids of the Tenryugawa 47 Visiting the Cities of Japan, from Tokyo to the Sacred Islands of the Inland Sea 48 Touring the Hawaiian Islands, the Paradise of the Pacific 50 A Trip to the Edge oi China 52 A Visit to Manila, the Capital of the Tropical Far East 54 Touring the Yellowstone National Park, the Wonder- land of America 55 Ax Excursion to the ( Irand Canyon of Arizona, the Acme of Sublimity $- A Visit to Moki Land, the Home of the Cliff Dwellers of Arizona 58 South America, the Land of Tomorrow 60 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS General Suggestions What to Take with You. Some general suggestions as to the preparation for an "Around the World" journey may prove of interest. The traveler will wish to take just as little as possible, because foreign countries seldom have a free checking system, and all baggage is therefore an extra expense. A small steamer trunk will slip under the berth on the steamer, and the baggage charge will not be excessive on the continental trains. A man will find a heavy suit very necessary, for it is cold at sea, even in the summer. A cravenette, a coat sweater, bathrobe and slippers, a second suit of dark material, and a tuxedo — although the latter is not positively necessary if traveling second class — should be available. Negligee shirts of flannel or silk with soft collars and cuffs, and a cap that will stay on are a great comfort. Include two pairs of easy, well-fitting shoes and only enough linen and other items to last en route, as the wardrobe can be added to quite cheaply in most of the countries visited. A woman should have a couple of tailored suits, one that will withstand all kinds of weather, and the other of some light-weight material ; a sweater, cap and gloves ; a heavy veil ; an ulster ; kimono, a one-piece dress of non- crushable material ; several plain, and at least two more elaborate waists ; a smart but simply trimmed hat, and the customary toilet and dress accessories. Little jewelry and aluminum or celluloid toilet articles instead of silver will be found advisable. Steamer rugs may be rented with the chair, from the deck steward, and need not be carried. Routes and Tickets. The routes to the various parts of the earth are numerous, and each has its advantages. Reliable infor- mation may be had from the railroad and steamship companies. In foreign countries there are usually three classes of railway travel — first, second and third, the second-class being quite gen- 6 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS erally patronized by foreigners. Arrangements should lie made long enough in advance to assure the traveler the most desir- able accommodations. On hoard ship the nearer the center of the vessel your stateroom is, the less you will feel its motion. Outside rooms with windows or ports are lighter and hetter ventilated. Baggage. The average amount of baggage allowed on most steamship lines is 300 pounds, and all pieces should be tagged or labeled with the name of passenger, steamer, date of sailing. number of stateroom and whether "wanted" or "not wanted" in stateroom. Trunks not over thirteen inches high, two and a half feet wide and four feet long will fit under the berths. In a few of the foreign countries baggage is carried free to a limited number of pounds, but as a rule the traveler will pay extra for every hit of baggage that is not carried in the hands. The baggage rates are generally low, except off the "beaten path." Tips. On shipboard the minimum fee to the table steward is $2.50, or ten shillings; also to the stateroom steward. The deck- steward and the stewardess will expect a minimum fee of $1.00. or four shillings. On the continent it is generally safe to adhere to the 10% ratio — 10% of the hotel bill, divided among those who serve you. Do not be inveigled into tipping any who have not in some way earned it. To guard the traveler who does not speak a foreign language from any extortion, various tourist companies abroad is386 1 lira $0,193 2 lire .386 5 " .90S 5 lire $ .965 10 " 1.93 20 " 3.8O 5 lire $ .965 10 " 1.93 50 " 905 100 " 1930 500 96.50 1000 " 193.00 Hotels. Hotels in Italy are numerous and it is easy to find accommodations suitable to the means of the traveler. Lists of hotels with their location and tariffs are to be found in the guide books, or secured at the tourist offices. Upon the departure of the guest gratuities are expected by the hotel servants for services rendered. Guides. The services of a guide may be secured in all the principal cities of Italy. lie should be recommended by the hotel or tourist office, and the amount to be paid for his services should be clearly understood by both parties. Language. A "phrase book" especially prepared for the use of travelers is of great assistance. Sentences expressing the needs of persons traveling are given in English, French, Italian, German and Esperanto. These books may be obtained at railway stations. Shops. The traveler will want to buy corals in Naples, mosaic work in Florence and Rome, and lace and beads in Venice. There are so many beautiful things displayed that the difficulty is not in the buying but in the wise selection. A.s in every foreign country, the traveler should be careful to buy only articles which he knows are genuine or else buy from firms upon whose integ- rity he may rely. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 23 Through Switzerland, the Playground of Europe Accessibility. Travel has been made so easy in Switzerland, and the points of interest are so accessible by train or boat, that it has become the most cosmopolitan of the countries of Europe. Passports. Passports are necessary for purposes of identifica- tion. Hotels. Comfortable, commodious hotels abound, and there are excellent pensions for the traveler of moderate means. The price of rooms usually includes breakfast. At resorts such as Interlaken and St. Moritz, an additional charge is customary if neither of the other two meals of the day is eaten at the hotel. In the cities, however, this charge is less usual. Language. English is now spoken in all the first-class hotels, and interpreters are to be found at all railway stations. The numerals in French, German and Italian can be easily learned and a phrase book is a convenience. Money. The coinage of Switzerland is like that of France. The franc of ioo centimes ($0,193) i s the unit. French, Belgian, Italian and Greek coins are in circulation and the traveler must exercise care lest he receive foreign coins which are not current. Customs. New wearing apparel, hats and bonnets, tea, coffee, provisions, soap, salt, sugar, confectionery, wines and spirits, perfumery, tobacco, stationery, jewelry and candles are dutiable. Examinations of luggage are made at stations nearest the fron- tier. Passengers must always be present and deliver their keys to the customs officer. Baggage. Baggage is not carried free of charge on the rail- ways of Switzerland. Only the handbaggage of the traveler is allowed in the railway carriage. Season Tickets. The Swiss Federal Railways issue season tickets, called "Abonnements," which are a great convenience to the traveler. Information concerning them may be easily ob- tained. They are non-transferable, and are good for various periods from two weeks to one year. They are accepted on all the state railways and steamers, and also entitle the holder to a discount on most private lines. These tickets are unlimited as to mileage. 24 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Climate and Clothing. The climate of Switzerland varies with its altitude, the lake levels 1 icing much warmer than the mountain tops, which are covered with perpetual snow and ice. The discretion of the traveler must be exercised as to the quan- tity and weight of clothing required for the varying temperatures which may be experienced in the course of a single day. Season for Travel. The spring months, March, April, and May, are the most delightful time of the year for a visit to Lugano and the Italian Lakes district, and May and June for the moun- tains. Many of the loveliest wild flowers are then in bloom and all Switzerland is in the perfection of its beauty. The fash- ionable "season" comes a little later, in July and August, and at that time the hotels are crowded and prices higher. Many winter sports have been introduced and those enjoying the brac- ing atmosphere of the snow-covered countries will find a winter trip to Switzerland a delight. Points of Interest. There are a great many points of interest to the traveler in Switzerland, a few of which are Lake Geneva, beloved by Byron ; Lausanne, with its famous cathedral, and the house where Gibbon wrote most of his noted history; Rhone Valley, with Zermatt and the Matterhorn ; the Swiss-Italian lakes, Como and Maggiore ; the Grisons with the Engadine ; Lucerne and its lake of rare beauty ; and the Bernese Oberland with its might}- giants, the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Mountain Climbing. Those who wish to try the arduous feat of making the ascent of one or more of the mountains by their own effort and skill, can arrange for such excursions with the regular guides who make a business of mountain climbing. The guide will assist in the selection of the proper outfit, including the Alpine stick and ice-ax. The rate of pay- ment for these guides is fixed by the Central Committee of the Swiss Alpine Club. The guides pay their own expenses when stopping at hotels, but en route the charges are borne by the traveler. The ascent of Matterhorn is begun at Zermatt. Lauter- brunnen is the center from which Jungfrau excursions may be made. A visit to the great < Hacier is made from the Jungfrau- joch Station on the Jungfrau Railway. Travelers are warned not to go any distance from the station without a guide. The paths from Weggis and Goldau (a station on the St. Gothard Railway some miles from Lucerne) are the most frequented TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 25 and best kept in that region. Of the two routes mentioned the path from Goldau is perhaps the most impressive in its sudden revealment of the entire vast panorama of the Alps. Another charming excursion from Lucerne requiring about a day, is that of the ascent of the Rigi Ffochfluh. From Gersau, which is reached by steamer from Lucerne, the path leads the traveler in a walk of about three hours to the summit. Round About Paris, or a Trip to the Quaint Corners of the French Capital City of the Seine. Paris is naturally divided into three parts ; the quarters on the right bank of the Seine, the Isle de la Cite and the Isle St. Louis, and the quarters on the left bank of the Seine. The Seine with its flotilla of merchant ships and barges, the many bridges spanning it from shore to shore, presents an ever- changing picture of which the observer never tires. Transportation. Steamers, steam and electric railways and automobiles transport the tourist to the beautiful environs of Paris. On ordinary railroads in France 66 lbs. of baggage may be carried free. Customs. In France the importation of matches and playing cards is strictly prohibited, and if found in baggage they are liable to be confiscated. Tobacco, wines, and liqueurs are sub- ject to a considerable duty. Money. The standard monetary unit of France is the franc of ioo centimes, worth $0,193 in the United States or Canadian money. As France belongs to the Latin Monetary Lnion its standard unit has the same value as that of Belgium, Switzer- land, Greece, Spain and Italy. The table below gives a summary of French money, with its approximate equivalents in dollars and cents : Copper and Nickel Coin? Sou or 5c. $0.0096* 2 sou or ioc .0193 Silver Coins Gold Coins Bank Notes 50c. $0 . 0963 1 f. .193 2 f. .386 5 f- -965 5 f- $0,965 10 f. 1.93 20 f. 3. 86 50 f. IOO f. 500 f. 1000 f. $ 9.65 19.30 96.50 I93-00 26 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Catacombs. These former quarries furnished the stone to build "old" Paris. They occupy nearly a fourth of the whole Paris area. In 1786 it was decided to transform these quarries into catacombs and bury there the bones of persons interred in the churches and cemeteries of Paris. Permission to visit the catacombs must be obtained from the Chief Engineer of the Department of Public Works (Prefecture of the Seine). The Savers. The sewers of Paris are examples of wonder- ful engineering and can be easily explored even by ladies. Vis- itors descend from the Place du Chatelet. A trip to the sewers may be made on the second and fourth Wednesdays of the month. Permission must be obtained from the Department of Public Works (Prefecture de la Seine). Montmartre. The Butte Montmartre, which is crowned by the Sacred Heart Cathedral, is a center for Bohemian life in Paris. Here are located the eccentric and curious cafes and cabarets, such as the ''Le Moulin Rouge'' (The Red Mill), and many others which have taken their names from "natural or unnatural" history. Sci'rcs. One of the oldest towns in the vicinity of Paris is Sevres. It is situated on the left bank of the Seine en route to Versailles. Here is the old palace of the dukes of Brancas and the celebrated porcelain factory, which is open to visitors on certain days. Permission to visit these workshops must be obtained at the office of the factory. Versailles. A ride of forty or fifty minutes by tram brings the tourist to Versailles, where are to be found the celebrated palace of Louis XI V and the two equally famous Trianons. The galleries of the palace contain hundreds of paintings and statues, many of artistic excellence and all of great historical interest. Fontainebleau. This charming spot, with its many historical associations, lies about thirty-seven miles south of Paris. The traveler leaves Paris at the Gare de Lyon, the station for the railway to Lyons. Fontainebleau has been for centuries the playground of the rulers of France. Napoleon alone spent more than $2,500,000 on various improvements in the palaces and grounds. The great forest of Fontainebleau, whose 66 square miles are noted as the haunt of French landscape painters, will well re] iay an afternoon's drive through its shade. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 27 A Pilgrimage to Oberammergau, the Passion Play Village A Unique Village. Oberammergau is unique among the places of interest visited by the stranger in Europe, but it is only every ten years that the flood tide of travel flows in its direction. The village lies about forty-three miles southwest of Munich, and can be reached most conveniently from that city. The journey is made by rail, the traveler changing at Murnau to the short line of railroad which has replaced the long carriage ride from Murnau to Oberammergau. Munich. Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is one of the most interesting cities of the German Empire and well worth all the time that can be devoted to it. Its ancient gates, art galleries, and industries are all objects of absorbing interest. It is called Mtinchen, the city of the Little Monk, and the story accounting for this name is an ancient one. Baggage. No baggage is carried free on German railroads ; the expense of transportation depends on weight and distance. Only the hand baggage is permitted in the railway carriage. Customs. New wearing apparel, toys, soaps, cigars and cigar- ettes, tobacco, wood and bronze ware are dutiable. Baggage is examined at the frontier, unless sent registered to some special point where the examination is then made. Hotels. Rooms in the hotel at Oberammergau must be se- cured long in advance. It is considered very desirable, however, to be assigned to rooms in the homes of the villagers, and pref- erence is given to those who apply first for this privilege. The tourist planning to visit Oberammergau during the Passion Play should make his arrangements far enough in advance to secure desirable accommodations. The Play. The performance is regarded as an act of divine worship by the villager, and is given with the deepest reverence. General interest in this remarkable work was first shown in 1850, and since then many articles and descriptions have been written concerning it. The actors are selected from the inhabi- tants gi the village and its environs. In many instances the same parts have been played by successive generations of the same families. It is considered the greatest honor to be permitted to take part in the play and the deepest disgrace to be excluded 28 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS from it. This sentiment has had its effect upon the moral char- acter of the villagers. To play the part of Christus is eonsidered one of the greatest earthly honors obtainable. Cycling Through Corsica, the Land of the Vendetta Corsican Ports. The visitor to the island of Corsica usually enters by one of three ports: Ajaccio on the west roast. Calvi on the northwest, or Bastia at the extreme northeastern part of the island. Steamship Service. Weekly steamship service to Corsica from the continent is given by the Fraissinet (French Mail) Steamship Co., between Marseilles, Leghorn, Bastia and other Corsican ports. There is also a weekly steamship service be- tween Nice and the Corsican ports. The itineraries of the steamers are subject to change, and the passenger must inform himself as to the accommodations available on board, as some ships do not provide sleeping quarters. Passengers at Mar- seilles may embark at the Quai de la Joliette or Mole de l'Abattoir. Railways. Railways connect the three principal coast towns of Corsica — Ajaccio, Calvi, and Bastia. Roads. The French have constructed magnificent roads throughout the interior of the island. Arrangements for a trip by carriage into the island should be made through the Ameri- can or British Consul at Ajaccio or Bastia. Money. French money is current in the island. Some French colonial coins are used. The Island. Approached as it is from the sea, Corsica is a frowning pile of rock giving little idea of the great beauty of its interior. The island is of special interest to admirers of Napoleon, for here, in 1769, in the little town of Ajaccio. was born the man who was to wrest the imperial diadem from the hands of the Pope of Rome. Climate. The climate of Corsica ranges from warmth in the lowlands to extreme cold in the mountains. In the inter- mediate- districts the climate is temperate and healthful Inhabitants. The Corsican is simple in his manners, digni- fied, proud and possessed of native courtesy. Hospitality is TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 29 always offered the stranger. The Corsican is implacahle and vengeful toward his enemies and in all questions sides with his clan or family. In business he is unenterprising; a political career being the ambition of almost every man, agriculture and commerce are neglected. In spite of increasing contact with the rest of the world, the Corsican remains much as he always has been. Fishing and Hunting. Only those holding a government license are permitted to fish or hunt on the island of Corsica. Pish and game are very plentiful, and the mountainous interior makes both sports attractive. A Trip to London, the Metropolis of the World Arrival. Visitors to the city of London can enter by rail- way, road or steamer. With the exception of Charing Cross, the terminals of the great railway trunk lines entering London are on the outskirts of the central area known as "the City." The stations of the four railway lines from the north are Maryle- bone, Euston, St. Pancras, and King's Cross. Paddington is the terminus of the western system, and Liverpool Street Station of the eastern system. The southern lines of railways end at Vic- toria. Charing Cross, Waterloo, Holborn Viaduct and London Bridge. Roads. The great roads into London, the highways for stage coach and motor cars, are the Uxbridge, Harrow and Edgeware roads from the northwest, which meet at the Marble Arch ; the Finchley and Edmonton roads from the north ; the Epping, Romford and Barking roads from the east; and the Kingston, Brighton and Dover roads from the south. Docks. The docks all lie east of London Bridge and extend as far as Tilbury, about twenty-seven miles down the river Thames. Railway Lines in London. The chief railway lines used in inner London are the Metropolitan, the Metropolitan District (commonly known as the District) and the Central London Railway. The latter is a tubular underground railway operated entirely by electricity. Other electric tubular railways connect- ing en route with the Central London, make the underground railway system of London very complete. 30 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Hotels. The higher priced hotels of London are in the West End. The more moderate priced hotels are in what is known as the Bloomsbury district and in "the City." Omnibuses. The familiar 'hus traverses London in all direc- tions from early morning till past midnight. The names of the terminal points and the streets passed through are generally printed on the outside of the vehicle. A table of the legal fares is posted inside. For any distance within "the City," the fare is one penny, or two cents, American money. The principal 'bus centers are the Rank, Charing Cross, Hyde Park Corner, Pic- cadilly Circus, King's Cross, Islington and the Elephant. 7 rams of London. As all the tramways or street car lines of London are outside of the West End and "the City," they are of little use to the sightseer unless he wishes to reach some of the suburban districts. The fares are moderate. Cabs. There are three classes of cabs in London ; the "four- wheelers," "hansoms" and "taxi-cabs." The fares vary with the class of vehicle employed. Maps and Guide Books. It is suggested that the traveler arriving in London familiarize himself with the map of the city. A good guide book will give him an idea of the places he will wi>h to see and the map will assist him in locating them. With- out a guide book the traveler will wa^te a great deal of time. Sightseeing in Paris, the City Magnificent The French Metropolis. Paris is not only the political me- tropolis of France, hut also the center of the artistic, scientific, commercial and industrial life of the nation. Jt has long en- joyed the reputation of being the most cosmopolitan city in Europe, for here the artist, scholar, merchant and votary ol pleasure alike find their special interest-. Seasons. Paris is interesting at all times, although the spring and autumn are generally conceded to be the best seasons, with perhaps a preference for the former. During mid-summer many of the Parisians leave the city, and some of the larger place's ol amusement are closed. Guide Book. A guide book containing a good sectional map of the city of Paris is a necessity to the tourist. It will enable TRAVEL TirS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 31 him to save much time and be invaluable in giving the location and description of the many points of interest. Hotels. The most fashionable hotels are located in the imme- diate neighborhood of the Place de l'Opera, although there are many excellent quarters elsewhere. All the large hotels are provided with modern luxuries, and the charges correspond to the accommodations. "Pensions," where board and rooms may be secured for a reasonable sum, are recommended if a long stay is possible. Conveyances. Motor omnibuses and tramways cross the city in every direction. There are also tramway lines to Versailles and other suburban points. The fares on all the lines within Paris are the same. Cabs, flies and automobiles are available, each class with its own tariff. Compared with the charges in the United States, the fares are very low. Shops. The most attractive shops are those in the Grands Boulevards, the Rue de la Paix, Avenue de l'Opera, Rue Royale, Rue du Quatre Septembre, and Rue de Rivoli, but there are large and much frequented emporiums in other parts of the city. See, also, "Round About Paris," page 25. Berlin, the City of the Kaiser A Clean City. The absolute cleanliness of the streets, the orderliness of every municipal arrangement and the strict en- forcement of the laws maintaining this ideal condition fill the visitor with admiration. There are no "back yards" in Berlin ; balconies filled with flowers ornament the buildings, out-door cafes give glimpses of cheerful sociability, and the traveler is confirmed in his impression that Berlin is a "city beautiful." Much of this appearance of cleanliness and orderliness is undoubtedly due to the fact that Berlin is essentially a modern city. Most of Berlin dates from the end of the Franco-Prussian War, and the traveler must not expect to find relics of mediaeval Germany except in the museums. Famous Streets. I nter-den-Linden is the famous street of Berlin on which are the palaces, the large hotels, the best shops and the parade of social life. L nter-den-Linden runs from the palace of the emperor to the Brandenburger Thor. Vest of the Brandenburger Thor is the famous Sieges Allee, or Avenue of 32 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Victory, with its thirty-two monuments to the predecessors of Emperor William 11. Other famous avenues are the Behren Strasse, the counterpart of Wall Street, and the Wilhelm Strasse. the Downing Street of Berlin. Shops. Besides the high-priced shops on Unter-den-Linden, excellent shops are located on Leipziger Strasse and Friedrich Strasse in the central part of the city. The crossing of these two streets is the heart of Berlin's retail shopping section. Trains. The street-car system of Berlin is wonderfully com- plete and covers all portions of the city. The fare is ten pfennigs, or two cents. A tip of five pfennigs is generally given to the conductor, who will then pay some attention to the passenger and notify him of his arrival at the street where he wishes to leave the car. Places to Visit. Some of the palaces are open to visitors at stated tunes during the week. A small admittance fee is asked and a tip or "trinkgelt" should he given to the guide who takes the tourist through the rooms. The Kaiser Friedrich Museum contains many famous paintings. The so-called "old" and "new" museums, including among their treasures many < Ireek and Roman antiquities, are noteworthy. The Tiergarten, originally a deer preserve, is now a great park, and the collection of ani- mals in the Zoological Garden is one of the finest in the world. Many hue statues have keen placed in various parts of the city; indeed, as has been aptly said, "the woods are full of them." Charlottenburg. This suburb, only three miles west of k.erlin, is easily reached by Irani. It is the center of the American col- ony, and is also noted for the magnificent mausoleum of the Emperor William 1 and his parents. Potsdam. This suburb contains the present summer home of the Emperor, and also Sans Souci, the favorite residence of Frederick the Great. The body of this great soldier lies in a simple coffin in the Potsdam I iarrison Church. Napoleon, at the height of his power, visited this church in company with some of his officers. It is said that when he noticed thai their hats remained untouched he commanded abruptly: "Mats oil, gentle- men. If he were alive, you would not be here." Passports. It is advisable to carry a passport should the tourist intend to spend a considerable time in Berlin. The pos- session of a passport is not obligatory, hut as evidence of identity TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 33 may be required at any time, it is well to be provided with this means of identification. Norway, the Land of the Midnight Sun Steamers. The most comfortable way to visit Norway is to travel by one of the magnificent steamers in and out of the fjords or bays of the coast to the North Cape. Stops are made at various ports long enough to give the tourist short shore excursions. There are special ocean yachts for cruising in Norwegian waters. The advantage of travel upon a ship of this kind is the greater space given for cabin and deck room. The ships generally carry their own launches, which simplifies the matter of embarking and disembarking in the shore excursions. Clothing. As the temperature of Norway is variable and the traveler may go far into the Arctic circle, both heavy and light clothing should be taken. A raincoat and a pair of stout walk- ing boots or shoes are recommended for use on shore excursions, as rain and rocks are sure to be encountered occasionally. Tourist Bureaus. Steamers carrying excursionists to the North Cape usually have on board a Tourist Bureau for the in- formation and convenience of travelers. For the payment of a very small fee, the representative of the Bureau will make all arrangements for the shore trips, and thus relieve the tourist of every care. Ship Time. The nautical day begins at noon and is divided into "watches'' of four hours each, except from 4 to 8 p. m., which time is divided into two watches of two hours each. Each hour and half hour of the day is announced by the ship's bell. When going eastward the time on board ship is changed daily, being put forward four minutes for each degree of longitude, and in going westward it is set back four minutes for each degree. On shore excursions the traveler should be careful to have his watch set to ship's time as posted daily on the bulletin board in the purser's office. Steamers do not wait for belated passengers. Hotels. There are good hotels for tourists in Norway, open during the summer, at all places usually visited by strangers. The charges are moderate and the service excellent. Some of the native dishes served are delicious, and the water is good in all parts of the country. 34 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Railways. The railway trains of Norway arc composed of second- and third-class carriages, except during the tourist sea- son, when first-class carriages are added to the service. The country has a comparatively small mileage of railroad-, prac- tically all owned by the government. Roads. The government has supervised the building of high- ways through the interior, and hundreds of miles of good roads make every part easily accessible. The "cariole," a single passer] ger vehicle, and the "stolkjaerre," made to hold two passengers, are the native carts that can be hired for inland drives. Money. The monetary unit in Norway, as also in Sweden and Denmark, is the krone of ioo ore. One krone is worth about $0,268 in United States or Canadian money and is. id. in British money. The following table summarizes the coinage of the three Scandinavian countries and the approximate value of coins and notes in dollars and cents. Bronze Coins Silver Coins Gold Coins Bank Notes 1 ore $0.0026 2 ore .005 5 ore .013 10 ore $0,026 25 ore .065 50 ore . T2 1 kr. .268 2 kr. .536 5 kr. $1.34 io kr. 2.68 20 kr. 5.36 Ducat 2.24 1 kr. $ 0.268 5 kr. 1.34 10 kr. 2.68 20 kr. 13.40 100 kr. Jb.^o 500 kr. 134.00 1000 kr. 268.OO These coins are all current in Norway, Sweden and Denmark, and the bank notes are accepted in the large cities of those conn tries. In making trips into the interior, the traveler should carry the notes of the country which he is visiting. Touring Sweden, Where the Boats "Go Up Hill" Gdteborg. The tourist from the south or west enters Sweden at the seaport of Goteborg on the Skagerrack. This city of 1/5,000 people is situated on the southwest coasl of Sweden, and is one of its principal ports. In itself it presents few attractions for the tourist, but it makes a good center from which to visit the popular summer resorts of Sweden at Marstrand, Saro or Lysekil. It is a1 ' loteborg the trawler begins his journey through the Gota Canal. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 35 The Gota Canal. This remarkable overland waterway extends from Goteborg a distance of 230 miles to Stockholm, on the southeastern coast of Sweden. The passenger embarks on a com- fortable little boat, which will be his home for fifty-six hours, at the pier Lilla Brommen. The progress is naturally slow, but not slow enough to tire the traveler, as there is no monotony in the scenery. While the boat is passing through the numerous locks the traveler may walk along the country roads so charmingly described by Air. Holmes in the Travelogues. At Askersvass, while the steamboat is ascending through eleven locks, there is time to visit the Falls of Trollhattan. These falls, while not equaled in Europe, seem small when compared with Niagara. They are six in number, the highest being forty- two feet. They develop 225,000 horse-power, most of which is used for industrial purposes. Motala. This little town on Lake Yettern is a good point to stop over for an excursion around the lake. An express steamer from Jonkoping lands here and will carry passengers for a very moderate fare to the interesting points nearby. The hill of Om- berg south of Motala is an objective point for an interesting drive. It is 871 feet high and covered with beautiful forests. Taxi cabs. Fares are moderate. The tariff is invariably posted in the cab and a small gratuity is usually added to this fare. Hotels. Hotels in Sweden are excellent, and every comfort known to the traveler in his own country is given him in this. Rates are moderate and the tourist can easily find the hotel to suit his purse. Stockholm. The capital and principal city of Sweden is called by tourists ''Little Paris" or the "Venice of the North." By its inhabitants, the city is sometimes called "The Queen of the Malar," in reference to the beautiful lake on the shores of which it is built. The best views of the picturesque site of Stock- holm are obtained from the Xorrbro, a bridge of seven granite arches, spanning the small river which is the outlet of the lake, and from the terrace of the Opera House. The "King's Garden" is the chief winter promenade. Other points of interest are: the National Museum, the National Library, the New Riksdag or Parliament Building, the Palace, and the various old churches of Stockholm. 36 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Skansen. A visit to Skansen will prove of the greatest inter- est, illustrating as it does the national life of the people. Skan- sen is located in the Royal Deer Park, where seventy acres have keen set apart for the express purpose of reproducing, to the most minute detail, the architecture and costumes of the Swedish, provinces. A Journey to Denmark, the Island Kingdom First Glimpses. The visitor to this quaint country will note with pleased surprise the absence of beggars, for there are none in Denmark. Prosperity is so evenly distributed that absolute want is unknown. The interior towns are the places where the ancient customs and dress of the people are to be found, as the larger cities are conforming to the fashions and manners of other countries. Copenhagen. This city is the center of trade of Denmark, and its commerce is greater than that of the rest of the kingdom together. Porcelain, among the many other industries of Den- mark, is making rapid advancement under this wise government, and the tourist will wish to visit the Royal Porcelain Factory which was founded in \~~2. The independent attitude in de- velopment of form and color adopted by the Royal Porcelain Factory has afforded a model in porcelain making for the rest of Europe. Hotels. The largest and most modern hotels have electric light and bath-. Restaurants are numerous throughout the city of Copenhagen. A cup of tea or coffee costs ten ore, about two cents. P>eer, milk, eggs and "smorrebrod" or sandwiches tempt the appetite of the tourist at the little cafes. Tromzcays. The street car system of Copenhagen is very complete and gives the tourist ready access to every part of the city. The fare is ten ore, including transfer. Cobs. The cabs hold from one to four people and cost about 1^2 kroner (about 37'.: cents) an hour in the city; two kroner an hour if used beyond the city limit-. Half fare is charged for the return, if the cab is discharged at some distance from the (-enter of the city. Small piece- of baggage are carried free. Trunk- are charged for at the rate d fifteen '"ire. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 37 Places to J isit. The Tivoli, near the main railway station, is a large and popular amusement park much patronized in summer. The Old Glyptothek houses the most celehrated collection of Roman portrait statues and busts in the world. The Xew Glyp- tothek contains a fine exhibit of Danish and French works. The King's Market is near the center of the old or inner city and is a "large irregular space surrounded by handsome buildings. On the east side is the Palace of Charlottenborg, which was built in 1672 and since 1754 has been occupied by the Royal Academy of Art. Near-by is the Royal Theater. A visit to tbe Round Tower will give the tourist an excellent view of the city. An excursion should also be made to Helsingor, the scene of Shakes- peare's "Hamlet ;" and to Frederiksborg, where the traveler finds the historical museum of Denmark. Rural Denmark. Denmark has no great scenic wonders. It has, however, an industrious people who have made their land one of the most productive on the earth. Over eighty per cent of the total area is used for agricultural purposes. Danish eggs are served fresh every day in London hotels ; Danish butter is famous all over the world. To St. Petersburg, the Imperial City of Russia Passports. Visitors to Russia must be provided with pass- ports bearing the vise of the Russian consul, made within six months of the date of entering Russia. If the traveler takes a steamer to Russia, his passport is placed in the hands of the pur- ser. After his baggage has been examined by the custom's officials at the entry port, the document will be returned to him. If entering Russia by train, a gendarme will take up the passport at the frontier station, returning it after the baggage has been opened and passed by the customs inspectors. At the hotel the traveler must hand his passport to the man- ager, who will take it to police headquarters to have it registered. A small fee for registration and a gratuity to the hotel for attending to the matter need not exceed one rouble. Twenty- four hours notice must be given before leaving Russia, and the passport must be so countersigned as to constitute permission to cross the frontier. A small fee of one and a half roubles is paid for this service. 38 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS t abs. The cahs of St. Petershurg are the "droskis" so cleverly described in the Travelogues. Hotels. The hest hotels are roomy, well furnished and inex- pensive. Electric light, baths, good beds and an excellent cuisine make the visit to St. Petersburg a very comfortable one. Climate and Clothes. Warm clothing should be carried, and in winter furs are an absolute necessity. The greatest precau- tions must be taken in winter against the freezing of the face or hands. The summers are warm and come very suddenly. Shops. The "( ireat Bazaar" is the Mecca of the shopper, but the articles displayed are too often of foreign manufacture, and unless the tourist wishes something "made in Germany" it may be advisable to visit the shops of Moscow before buying Russian souvenirs. Shops on the Nevsky Prospect and the Bolchaya Mors- kaya, in St. Petersburg, show exquisite furs and porcelains. Places of Interest. The Kasan Cathedral houses the famous icon called "The Lady of Kasan." The Memorial Church of Alexander II. the Fortress, the Alexander I Monument, and the Hermitage, which ranks with the first galleries of Europe, should be visited. Places of Amusement. The Islands ( numbering about forty) in the Neva delta are reached by little steamers leaving the Sum- mer Gardens every twenty minutes. The fare is five to ten ko- peks. The Summer Gardens and the Zoological Gardens are two very popular places of amusement. The Nevsky Prospect. Alexander ( iardens are the center from which radiate the three principal streets of St. Petersburg. The one which is world-famous is the Nevsky Prospect, the one crowded street of the city, where throng all sorts and conditions of men. The irregular division of daylight and darkness which prevails in this northern latitude have practically made the "day" of St. Petersburg endless. The revelers going home meet the workmen coming to work. The street is three miles long. Churches. These are second only to the churches of Moscow, and of them all, St. [saac's is the one which most impresses the traveler with its magnificent severity. The cupula, lantern, and cross are overlaid by hundreds of pounds of jur< >1 < 1 leaf. The pillars are shafts of granite sixty feet high and the bronze doors should be carefully examined. Attention is called to the pillars TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 39 of malachite and lapis lazuli, and the jeweled "icons/' in the in- terior. Palaces. The imperial palaces of Russia number one hundred and thirty-eight, and a lifetime could be spent in visiting them. The Winter Palace and the Tsarskoye Selo are the ones in which the tourist will be most interested. The Winter Palace fronts the Neva in St. Petersburg and at the oack is the square where stands the monument to Alexander I. Permission to visit this palace must be obtained through the Ambassador to Russia. Trains for "the Tsar's village" leave the Tsarskoye Selo Station, St. Petersburg, nearly every hour. The fare is 50 cents, and the trip takes about half an hour. This palace of Tsarskoye Selo has most beautiful grounds lavishly orna- mented with graceful fountains and artistic bridges. The Vauxhall restaurant at Pavlovsk, three miles farther on, has delightful concerts, and is an excellent place to dine. The restau- rant is at the station. To Moscow, the Magnificent City of the Muscovites Heart of Russia. This city, which contains the "Iieart of Russia," the Kremlin, holds also many other objects of interest to the traveler. Moscow is four hundred miles from St. Peters- burg and but eleven hours by fast express, yet it is wholly dif- ferent and by far one of the most fascinating places in Europe. St. Petersburg is European; Moscow is Muscovite. The Red Square. About this square are buildings of special interest. On one side stands the Church of St. Pasil. This is so remarkable that once seen it cannot be forgotten and serves as a guide to the tourist in locating the direction of his sight- seeing. On this square is also the enormous Riady or Gallery of Commerce. It is built in a series of arcades which cover the end- less number of shops where the traveler can indulge in purchases of shawls from Orenburg, laces from Kaluga, pottery from Pol- tave, toys from Sergievsky Possad, and wooden spoons from the Balukua District. The distinctly characteristic articles to be looked for here are the wonderful enamels made in the cellars of Moscow, and the samovars and Circassian jewelry. The lac- quer work of Moscow is also world-famous. 40 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS The "Thieves' Market" held on Sunday should not he missed by the tourist. It is held in the Red Square. Old prints, bronzes and icons can sometimes be found and purchased for a few kopeks. Russian Money. The monetary unit is the ruble of ioc kopeks, worth $0,515. The list of Russian coins and paper notes, with their approximate value in dollars and cents, is given in the following table : c 1 "ins Silver Coins Gold iins Hank Notes Ik $0.005 ' 5 5 k. $0.0257 5 "• $2,575 1 r. $ 0.515 2 k .01 10 k. .051 7' K. or 3 r. 1.545 5 k .0257 I5k. .077 I [mperial 3.86 5 r. 2.575 20 k. .103 [oR. 5.15 10 r. 5.15 25 k. .128 15 R. or 25 r. 12.875 50 k. •257 1 imperial 7.72 50 r. 25.75 100 k. •515 100 r. 5140 h ruble •257 500 r. 257.50 1 ruble •515 Tips. A gratuity in Russia is called "tea-money."' Small tips are customary, a few kopeks being enough for most services. Cabs. Cabs are numerous and cheap in Russia. The retention of the services of the same cabman throughout a short stay in ■any city will prove a great convenience for shopping or sight- seeing. Cameras. Used cameras are admitted duty free, but per- mission to photograph must be had from police headquarters wherever the traveler happens to be. The best method of avoid ing difficulty with the police is to become a member of the Rus- sian Photographic Society on payment of five rubles. The mem- bership card entitles the holder to photograph freely in Russia, except in the vicinity of fortifications, navy yards, railway bridges, and imperial domains. Trans-Siberian Railway, Through a Land of Promise The journey by the Trans Siberian Railway is most interest- ing. Tlure are many important towns and cities along the line, and the traveler may now cross the vastness of northern Asia with every comfort. The tickets are issued in the form of coupon TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 41 books and are good for three months. Passengers from western Europe with a through ticket for the Far East, or vice versa, are not required to procure special passes for the right to cross the frontier. Advance Reservations. On account of the great demand for accommodations on the Trans-Siberian trains and the limited number of berths, passengers will do well to secure reservations called "place cards," and purchase all tickets in advance. From March i until July 15 accommodations on the trains west-bound from Vladivostok and Chang Chun, are reserved, as a rule, and tickets and reservations are sold two or three months before date of departure. The same condition prevails regarding east-bound trains from Moscow and St. Petersburg from August 1 until December 15. Space may sometimes be secured when other reservations have been cancelled. Train Equipment. The Siberian Express is the train de-luxe of the Trans-Siberian railway. On it passengers from St. Peters- burg and Moscow travel without changing cars as far as Irkutsk. At Irkutsk, the passenger continuing his journey takes the train of the International Sleeping Car Company. Each train is pro- vided with a restaurant car and first-class cuisine. The cost of a sleeping-car berth between St. Petersburg or Moscow and Vladivostok is about $35.00. The sleeping-cars are usually di- vided into compartments containing two berths, a table, chair, reading lamp, and ample hook and rack room for hand baggage. Toilet facilities are provided and on some of the trains there is a shower bath with hot and cold water in the baggage car. First- class carriages are painted blue, second-class are tan color. Baggage. Thirty-six pounds of baggage are carried free in the baggage car : any excess weight must be paid for. All pieces should be registered at least fifteen minutes before train time. A small fee is charged for registration. Porters. If, when stopping at stations, the tourist wishes to stroll up and down the platform or visit the excellent buffets which can be found at almost every stopping place, he is advised to hire a porter to watch his hand baggage in the compartment. A few kopeks will more than suffice for this service, and the traveler will be rewarded for his generosity with smiling thanks. Beverages. Water should not be drunk unless boiled. Good milk may be secured at all railway stations in Russia. Almost 42 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS every traveler carries his own tea-making equipment, and makes tea with hot water procured at the station. Vodka is the whisky of Russia. Kvass, a fermented, nun-alcoholic drink, made from black bread, honey or berries, is a delicious novelty to the trav- eler. Places of Interest en Route. The chief points of interest after leaving St. Petersburg or Moscow are the Ural mountains, Che- liabinsk (the junction of the St. Petersburg and Moscow divi- sions), Omsk, with its old Cathedral, and the Taiga Forest, through which the train runs for two days. Irkutsk is a large and important city which astonishes the tourist because of its extent and the business activity in such an out-of-the-way corner of the earth. Lake Baikal can be seen in magnificent panorama from the train. Harbin is the important market center of the East, and is also the junction of the Vladivostok and Darien lines of railway. Vladivostok is a city with strong fortifications, fine harbor and large trade. At this point connections by steamer are made with Tsnrnga, Nagasaki and Shanghai. At Darien connections are made with steamers to and from Mogi and Shim- onoseki, and the Japanese trains also connect with these lines. Russian Customs. In traveling eastward the hand baggage is examined at Pogranitchnaia, and the registered baggage at Vladivostok. When traveling in the opposite direction both hand baggage and trunks are examined at a station called Manchuria, a short distance from the boundary. Chinese Customs. Both hand baggage and trunks are exam- ined at the stations Manchuria and Pogranitchnaia on entering and on leaving Manchuria. A Trip Down the Amur, the Great Gateway to the Pacific Character of the Land. Since Russia lias established her pro- tectorate over the territory known as Mongolia, the character of the country is rapidly changing. As the Siberian trader pene- trates southward, the Mongol Tatars arc subtly becoming Rus sianized. Settlers from Russia are here making homes for them- selves, and the Russian peasant is even intermarrying with the Chinese. So immense is the region and so diversified are its interests and possibilities that the section seen on a voyage down TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRITS 4.3 one of its rivers is only a beginning of a discovery of the inter- esting. Krasnoyarsk is a city of 19,000 inhabitants. It is the seat of the Government of the Province of Venisseck, and is destined to be an important place. Supplies. In Siberia, the traveler using the river boats for transportation, in addition to the ordinary luggage needed for personal use, has to carry his bedding, towels, soap, tea, canned goods and crackers, with the necessary utensils for preparing food and heating water. It is not safe to depend entirely on the towns at which the boat may stop, for the stores may not be sufficiently stocked to supply the demand for food. Raincoats and umbrellas will enable the passenger to remain on deck even through inclement weather. Photography. Now that the country is being garrisoned so strongly by the Russians the traveler must use the greatest dis- cretion in photographing, as it is forbidden in the vicinity of fortifications. At Vladivostok the tourist can only obtain pic- tures from the windows of his hotel, and then only at the risks of the confiscation of his camera and of a heavy fine. Jladizvstok. This is an interesting town begun in i860, and built on the sloping shores of the pretty bay which forms a part of the Japanese Sea. It has a cosmopolitan population of about 50,000 inhabitants. The harbor is particularly fine and the port is accessible at all seasons of the year. Vladivostok is supplied with good hotel accommodations. The cuisine is excellent and electric lights and baths are to be found here, as well as every other equipment of a modern hotel. A Sojourn in Peking, the Capital of China Its Attractions. The vast country of China and its almost numberless population offer endless attractions to the tourist. The strange customs of the people, their homes and temples, the beautiful objects of art in the quaint stores, the people them- selves — all are supremely fascinating to the Occidental, even though he understands them but little. Peking. This city is not only the capital of China, but it is one of the great capitals of the world, and so absolutely unique that the traveler will consider it also one of the world's great 44 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS spectacles. It is a city of three parts, the Imperial Palace lying within the confines of the Forbidden City, which in itself is sur- rounded by the Tatar City, and, outside of all, the Chinese City. The Temple of J leaven, the Confucian Temple, the Yellow Tem- ple, Lama Temple, Observatory, Examination Hall and many palaces offer much to see that is worthy. The Great Wall of China will be seen in the best state of preservation at Nankow Pass, about two days journey from Peking. Hotels. The hotels of the Orient under European manage ment excel the hotels of Europe. The Chinese service is ideal and the slightest want of the traveler is anticipated. A servant is always in attendance. Guides. It is best to secure from the hotel or a reliable agency the services of a licensed guide. This man will not only know where to take the tourist sightseeing, but will know the best shops and act as interpreter and protector. These men are so faithful, so untiring, so eager to please, that the traveler adds with pleasure the "cumsha" or tip, to the small sum charged for all this devo- tion. About three dollars a day Mexican, or one and a half dol- lars gold, is the usual fee. Currency. The currency of the different sections of China is not uniform and the coins of one province are not always ac- cepted in another. The coast cities and the large cities of the interior use the Mexican dollar as the monetary standard and an article is priced at so much "Mex" (Mexican) or so much "gold." Mexican and British colonial silver dollars are imported in large numbers. At the hotels and the large shops in China, American and English gold and travelers' checks are accepted. The gold is always at a premium, which fluctuates daily. The traveler is advised to have always with him a quantity of small Chinese coins to use for inevitable "cum sha." "Chin-chin cum- sha" is the first Chinese the traveler hears and it comes from the lips of every beggar in ( hina — "Greeting, a gift!" Shopping. It i> customary to "bargain" in China. When the price of an article is named the shopper asks "Mex?" 1 he merchant answers "Mex" or "gold" as it happens to he. and the price asked is generally two or three times the sum he will finally accept. A great deal of dramatic ability is often exhibited in the "bargaining." The traveler shows indifference for the object he longs to possess; the merchant scorns the price offered; the TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 45 traveler is obdurate and perhaps leaves the shop, taking care to linger outside ; the merchant relents and names a lower price ; the traveler re-enters to say he will not pay so much ; and after a while the agreement is made, the traveler leaves with the coveted object, triumphant over securing at so small a cost such a beauti- ful treasure. The merchant rejoices at having made perhaps two hundred per cent on the sale. The Forbidden City, or a Visit to the Home of "The Son of Heaven" A Sacred Place. Now that the mysterious enclosure which was the heart of Peking has been laid open to the gaze of the world, it is with something of awe and involuntary reverence that the traveler enters the once sacred and forbidden place. Much of the grandeur has passed with the vandalism of the un- thinking soldier and many treasures have been lost to the world, but there still remains enough to delight and amaze the traveler who sees China for the first time. Entrance Fees. A small fee should be given the "gateman" who admits the tourist and his guide into any tomb, temple or house. In the temples it is customary to place a coin in the "con- tribution box" of the priests. This is only a matter of courtesy. J 'chicles. The sedan chair and the jinrikisha are the means of transportation about the city most used by the traveler. The jinrikisha is a two-wheeled cart which is drawn by a coolie. The sedan chair is what its name implies, a chair swung between two poles which rest on the shoulders of the two coolies who carry it. There is usually a little canopy over the chair. The fare for jinrikishas is about forty cents (Mexican) an hour, or twenty cents gold. The rate for sedan chairs is eighty cents Mexican or forty cents gold. When stopping at a tea house or restaurant it is customary to give the coolies who carry the sedan chairs or draw the jinrikishas "tea-money" (the coolie term for a gratuity) or buy them some tan-san or ginger ale. These little courtesies, though expected, always give great pleasure. Clothing. Clothing such as worn in the temperate zone in a similar latitude is suitable in China. The visitor to China finds that it is not a nation of laundrymen ; yet clothes will be 46 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS cleansed and cared for at very little expense. In warm weather linen and pongee suits, which are light and easily cleaned, are worn by both sexes. Beverages. It is not safe to drink the water of China. Drink bottled waters with English or American label or the Japanese bottled water "tan-san." Ginger ale and lemon-squash are also popular in the Orient. An Excursion to Seoul, the Metropolis of the "Land of the Morning Calm" The Approach. Korea, or Cho-sen, as it is called by the natives, was the last of the Oriental nations to open its doors to the outside world. Since its occupation by the Japanese, rail- roads and steamship lines make Korea easily accessible. The cli- mate is usually delightful. Seoul. The capital of Korea is the center of a very ancient culture, now rapidly becoming Japanese. It is surrounded by a wall of stone, twenty feet high and 89,610 feet long. In this wall are eight large gates each surmounted by a two-story build- ing with wide projecting roofs. The Nan-daimon or "South Gate" and the To-daimon or "East Gate'' are the finest. Hotels. The traveler can find comfortable accommodations and excellent service at the European hotels and Japanese inns of Seoul. Water. As in other Oriental countries, the water of Korea should be boiled before drinking. liottled waters which are sealed, tan-san, and ginger ale are the beverages mostly used by the tourist in this "thirsty land." Money. The money of Japan now current in Korea is the simplest of Oriental currencies for the traveler to comprehend. The monetary unit is the yen. of 100 sen. The yen equals fifty cents American; the sen is equal to half a cent American. Eng- lish and American gold is accepted and i< always at a premium. Travelers' checks are now taken at the hotels and large shops. Streets. Some of the streets <>f Seoul are broad and well paved, others are very narrow and ( Oriental in their turnings. The street leading up through the city from the South < late is the principal thor< >ugh tare. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 47 Trams. The modern electric street car has been accepted by this conservative people, so that now the traveler need not ride in the native vehicles unless through preference. Guides. It is best to secure a licensed guide who will arrange trips to the various places of interest. The compensation asked is very small, and a trifling sum is usually added as a gratuity by the tourist. Places of Interest. The traveler visiting Seoul should see the Marble Pagoda, the Rock Image of Buddha, the Tomb of Queen Chung, the Buddhist Temple, the Temple of the War God, and the Keum-Kyu. or old Imperial Palace. Independence Arch is also noteworthy. Hunting. The hunters of big game will find excellent sport in the tiger hunting to be had in the interior of the country. Smaller game abounds in the vicinity of Seoul. A Jaunt into the Interior of Japan, from Nikko to the Rapids of the Tenryugawa Yokohama. Yokohama, the great port of Tokyo, is located on the island of Nippon and is the great eastern port of Japan. At Yokohama the tourist will wish to explore some of the mar- velous shops, visit the "Tea-house of a Hundred Steps," and plan a day's excursion to Kamakura and Enoshima, to visit the interesting temples and monasteries. At Kamakura is the won- derful Dai Butsu or great bronze image of Buddha. Nikko. From Yokohama or Tokyo the traveler finds Xikko easy of access. There is a common saying in Japan which freely translated means "Do not say "beautiful' before you see Xikko." The traveler, after he has seen this famous place, will concede that the word "beautiful" is inadequate. Here are the burial places of the Shoguns of the Tokugawa line. In their sylvan setting, these temples of exquisite carvings and red lacquer, perfect in every detail in spite of the passing years, are the loveliest things in Japan. Here is the red lacquer bridge over which formerly none but the Shoguns passed. The Sanbutsudo is the hall of the Three Buddhas. Mangwanji is the principal temple. The most beautiful object is perhaps the Yomeimon, the "gate passing a day." so called by the Japanese because visitors never tire of inspecting its marvelous workmanship even 48 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS though it detain them a whole day. ( )ther attractions in the neighborhood of Nikko will hold the traveler in the region as long as his time in Japan will allow. He should particularly notice the avenue of cryptomeria trees, unique in Japan. Transportation. The kuruma or jinrikisha is the ideal vehicle for a trip through Japan. The railways, which are excellent, can be used for the longer distances, but for the leisurely sight- seeing from place to place the kuruma, with the kurumaya to act as devoted servant, guide, and interpreter, as well as horse, is absolutely unrivaled. The kago or chair is used in moun- tainous districts. Money. The decimal system and a gold standard has been used in Japan since 1897. The monetary unit is the yen — 100 sen — worth about fifty cents. One sen equals ic rin. There are three copper coins, the 5 rin, 1 sen and 2 sen ; a 5-sen nickel piece, 10, 20, 50 and 10O sen or 1 yen, of silver, and 5, 10 and 20 yen of gold. The Bank of Japan also issues paper money in denominations of 1, 5, 10 and 100 yen. For long journeys, it is best to carry the paper money. Clothing. About the same clothing is required for Japan as is used in the temperate zone of North America. Linen and pongee arc worn by travelers in the summer time. Low shoes are more convenient than high ones, as in entering the immacu- late Japanese houses or inns it is customary to slip off the shoes at the door. This is not absolutely required, but is a courteous observance of the customs of the travelers' hosts, the Japanese, a race whose courtesy is world-famous. Visiting the Cities of Japan, from Tokyo to the Sacred Islands of the Inland Sea The Seasons. The best seasons to visit Japan are the spring and autumn. During the months of April and May the spring (lowers are in bloom and the cherry blossoms cover the earth with a pink cloud. In October and November the gorgeous display of chrysanthemums and maples will delight the tourist. But in Japan every season has its flower festival. Passports. Foreigners can now enter Japan without pass- ports. The traveler stopping at any of the Japanese inns is required to register his name, nationality, age and profession. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 49 Hotels. The coast cities of Japan have hotels as beautiful, as elegantly furnished, as convenient, and in many ways more comfortable than the hotels of other nations. The service is Japanese, but the cuisine is usually under the direction of a French chef. The Japanese inns of the interior are charming places, beautifully clean. Guests are excellently served by smil- ing, polite natives. The rates are very moderate. Tokyo. This city is the capital of the Empire. Here is the Imperial Palace, which the public may not enter. The traveler should visit the Yushukan or Museum of Arms, and the Yasu- kuni-Jinsha, a celebrated Shinto Temple. Shiba Park, ten min- utes' ride by ricksha from the center of the city, is the site of the great Buddhist Temple, Zojoji. Hibiya Park is the principal amusement park of the city. The Koyakan or Maple Club fur- nishes an excellent Japanese dinner or afternoon tea to the weary traveler and is one of the sights of the city. The Sengaku-ji, known as the "tombs of the forty-seven Ronins," is well worth a visit. In the Uyeno Park are the Imperial Museums, the Zoological Gardens, the Fine Arts School, Academy of Music and Public Library. In this park is a little lake noted for its lotus flowers, and near by is the Imperial University. Here also in Tokyo is the famous school of Ju-jitsu; the Ikebana, where is taught "The Art of Arranging Flowers" ; and the Chano-yu, where instruction in the conducting of "The Cere- monial Tea Service" is given. Kyoto. This is the artistic center of Japan. The streets are clean and the plan of the city orderly and easily understood. Kyoto is noted for its fine porcelains, embroideries, silks and velvets, bronzes and metal work. There are here 878 Buddhist temples and eighty- two Shinto shrines. A number of tea houses and restaurants will be found in Maruyania Park. This place is celebrated for its cherry blossoms. From the Yasaka no to, the five- storied pagoda, there is to be had an excellent view of the city. Kobe, Osaka and Nagasaki are towns easily accessible by train or boat to the traveler. Nagasaki is a fortified town and has large ship-building yards, which the public cannot visit. The little fishing village of Mogi, five miles from Nagasaki across the mountain, is a charming place to visit and a popular summer resort. 50 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Shops. The tortoise shell of Japan is famous the world over and much desired by tourists. Purchases should be carefully made at the shops known for the quality and workmanship of their wares, as inferior goods and clever imitations are widely offered for sale. A beautiful product, of gun metal, inlaid with gold and silver, rivals the old Toledo work of Spain and is called Damascene work. Porcelains, silks, lacquer work, beads and toys bewilder the traveler with their exquisite beauty or grotesque charm. Photography. Cameras and sketch books are prohibited in all parts of Japan within six and a half miles of any fortifica- tion. The rules are very strictly enforced and a smiling officer will politely take the camera suspected of containing forbidden views and expose the film to the light, thus making sure that no photograph will result. Cameras are used in the interior by spe- cial permission from the police. Touring the Hawaiian Islands, the Paradise of the Pacific Charm. To the traveler who has once experienced the de- lights of a trip to these "happy isles" there is ever the desire to return. Those who stay longest love them best. Hawaii is the largest island of the group, having nearly two-thirds of the total area. Upon its rugged breast stand the two great volcanic mountains, Manna Kea and Mauna Loa. From the sides of the latter burst the fires of Kilauea, the largest active volcano in the world. Kilauea is a pit crater, not a cone, and its rent is a hole in the ground. The Volcano 1 louse stands at the very edge of the outer pit, which is 500 feet deep and eight or nine miles in circumference. The native name for the crater is Hale maumau "1 louse of Fire." Honolulu. This city on the island of Oahu, with a popula- tion of over 53,000, is the port through which the traveler enters Hawaiian territory. It is a delightful city with environs of singular charm. The lavish foliage of the tropics is here found, for the setting of Honolulu is in the semi tropical surroundings of a land where "it is always afternoon." The people are noted for their courtesies and hospitalities, which multiply in geomet- rical progression the longer one stays. The National I'alace, TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRtPS 51 Government Buildings and old mission landmarks are open to visitors. The harbor of Honolulu, with its many ships from foreign lands, is a scene of never-ending interest. Hotels. The hotel accommodations are excellent. Small cot- tages throughout the city of Honolulu may be rented for a very moderate sum if the traveler intends to stay for an extended period. The "guest homes" are furnished comfortably and meals are taken at the "large house'' to which the smaller "guest homes" belong. Local Transportation. Electric railways traverse Honolulu and extend to the suburbs. Automobiles are available for long drives, and taxi-cabs and carriages meet all steamers and island trains. Places of Interest. The traveler will enjoy an auto ride to the "Punch Bowl," the crater of an extinct volcano, a few miles northeast of Honolulu. The Country Club lies north of the city, and is reached by an excellent road passing the Royal Mausoleum. Another excursion is to Pearl Harbor, nine miles by rail, through rice fields, cane fields and banana plantations, to the beautiful harbor where the traveler will find a charming seaside resort. Waikiki. This suburb is easily and quickly reached either by electric train or automobile. Here the characteristic surf- bathing of the natives may be seen at almost any time. The way to this beach of Honolulu fashion is lined with beautiful villas, each with its boat- and bath-house facing the water. The return journey may be made via Beretama Street and the grounds of Oahu College. Here, if the season be right, an evening visit will afford one of the unique sights of the world, a hedge of night-blooming cereus, with thousands of fragrant blossoms, extending for hundreds of yards. Railways. The railway lines of the Hawaiian Islands are necessarily short and do not penetrate far into the interiors. The railways connect the most important cities on the coast. Inter-island Steamers. The excellent service of these inter- island steamers makes it possible for the traveler to reach any one of the islands without difficulty, and each has its attraction. On Maui is the crater of Haleakala, the largest extinct volcano in the world, a marvelous example of the cooled walls and fire- boxes of nature's greatest blast furnace. Among the islands 52 TRAVEL TIPS FUR TRAVEL TRIPS one may also visit the coffee, sugar and pineapple plantations for which these isles are famous. A Trip to the Edge of China Hongkong. Arriving at Hongkong the landing is made by tender from the ship to Blake's Pier. The hotels have private launches for landing and embarking passengers and their bag- gage. As Hongkong is a free port, there are no customs formali- ties, and the traveler can choose his hotel and speedily be "at home." The island of Hongkong is about ten miles long and averages three and a half miles wide, with a deeply indented southern coast line. On the north shore is the city of Victoria, fronting one of the finest harbors in the world. Back of the city rises the "Peak," a mountain about 2,000 feet in height, upon which are built the summer homes and hotels of the island. The city has a population of about 350,000 people, among whom all races are represented. The Chinese predominate — a courte- ous, energetic people. Their quiet, respectful demeanor, their courteous attention and civility are in sharp contrast to the con- duct of some of the representatives of the Western nations. Hotels. Excellent hotels are found in Victoria, and the tourist will find this a most delightful place in which to spend the winter season. Local Transportation. In going about the city or in trips to the suburbs, sedan chairs and jinrikishas are used. All jin- rikishas and sedan chairs are numbered, showing that they have received the official license. As the government controls the licensing and the charges, the rates are very reasonable. The Kowloon ferry makes frequent trips to the mainland of China, and for trips around the harbor the native boats called sampans are convenient. Shops. On Queens Road one finds the fascinating shops, where the finest silks and embroideries may be purchased. There arc no workmen in all the world to equal the painstaking Chinese, and the products of their skill are unexcelled. Here at Victoria, all the wares of China, Japan and India are displayed in the arcade shops, with novelties in bamboo, teakwood, ivory, porce- lain and lacquer. Representatives of all races and religions are seen in the streets and add to the bewildering scene. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 53 Places of Interest. The Botanical Gardens, Bowen Road, the great reservoirs at. Wong-nei-chong Gap and Tytam, the Happy Valley, the Pavilion on the Peak and the lovely "Flower Market" are all attractive to the traveler. The Ko Shing The- ater is in the Chinese section (West Point). Some of the finest Chinese actors are here to be seen. Shau-ki-wan and Tai Koo, beyond Causeway Bay, can be easily reached by tram ride. A visit to the preserved ginger-root factories at Yam-a-ti is an interesting assurance of the perfect cleanliness of this famous product of China. Canton. Canton is about ninety miles from Hongkong, and is a night's ride by steamer or about five hours' ride by rail from that point. The water life of Canton is one of its most peculiar features, as thousands of boats floating on the rivers and creeks provide homes for countless multitudes. To see the Canton of the Cantonese, it is necessary to have a guide, who comes well recommended by a hotel or reliable tourist agency, and the price of his services definitely agreed upon. Canton is the metropolis of China, with a population variously estimated from four to eight million. The streets are seldom more than eight feet wide and so constructed that they get the breeze and at the same time shut out the direct rays of the sun. The water of Canton is unsafe for drinking purposes. Tourists will find it advisable to drink the bottled waters, tan-san, or ginger ale. Places of Interest. The kingfisher feather workshops, rice- paper picture painters, the Temple of Five Hundred Genii, the embroidery shops, the Temples, the Taoist Monastery, the City of the Dead, Flower Pagoda, the Gate of Virtue, and the Street of Carved Ivories and Street of Jade Stones will prove of great interest to the tourist. Also the famous Water-clock, which has kept the time of Canton for over a thousand years. Money. English gold at a premium is accepted in Canton. Hongkong money is not taken. Canton money should be ex- changed before returning to Hongkong. Shanghai. Three days by steamship from Hongkong is the interesting city of Shanghai. The foreign settlement is thor- oughly distinct from the native town, and is practically European in its architecture and manner of life. Here are the famous Mandarin Gardens and the Tea House pictured on the blue china plates of our great-grandmothers. The hotels are excellent. 54 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS First-class river steamers ply between Shanghai and Hankau. the greatest tea port, touching at many cities, and traversing the tea- growing section. If the traveler has the time, a visit to the tea- fields will amply repay him. A Visit to Manila, the Capital of the Tropical Far East Attractiveness, 'Within the last few years travelers have begun lo appreciate the fact that the Philippine Islands have wonderful charm of scenery, immense natural wealth, and are not only beautiful to look upon but offer a profitable field for investment. Manila. The chief city of the islands in point of size and the port at which the traveler will enter, is the capital, Manila. At the entrance to the harbor stands one of the strongest forti- fied places in the world, Corregidor ; behind the breakwater lies the magnificent harbor, where the depth of water, over thirty feet, permits the largest steamers to land directly at the wharves. To the south is the Old or Walled City, while the new commercial section is on the north bank of the Pasig. Customs. Dutiable articles, such as tobacco, spirits and curios, may be stored at the wharves at slight cost until the traveler is ready to depart ; firearms are prohibited. Water. Since the American occupation, sanitary conditions are so improved that the water supply is adequate and perfectly safe for drinking purposes. Climate. The sun is warm in the middle of the day, the nights cool and frequently necessitate blankets. This is in the lowlands, but as one attains greater elevations the nights grow colder, until at the high levels of the Benguet range, ice often forms in the streams. Places of Interest. The "intra muros"' or old walled city of the Spaniards has five gateways, and is less than two miles in circumference. The old churches of Manila are of more than passing interest. The Augustinian on Calle Palacio is the oldest, as it was begun in 1599. In Calle Arzobispo is the Jesuit church of St. Ignatius, noted for its remarkable wood carving. The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, facing the Plaza Mc- Kinley, is of Roman Byzantine architecture. Several other TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 55 churches of interest are within walking distance of the Plaza McKinley. Drives. Manila should be the Mecca of the motorist because of its beautiful roads. A drive of especial delight and interest is that along the Luneta during the band concert about five in the afternoon. Almost equally pleasing are the drives to Santa Ana, returning by Calle Nozaleda, and to San Juan Bridge, returning by way of San Miguel. Meteorological Observatory. One of the most famous ob- servatories in the world, this station is conducted by the Jesuit Fathers, whose long experience in tracking out the course of a typhoon has proved of untold service. Information as to when visitors are admitted to the observatory may be obtained at the hotel. Bilibid. The great reformatory prison in Manila is the largest as well as one of the most remarkable prisons in the world. It is located just outside the city. Shopping. There are hats, embroideries, laces, "pina" and "jusi" cloth and innumerable curios to delight the traveler in search of souvenirs. Shopping is done in the Escolta. This street is reached by the Bridge of Spain or the Santa Cruz Bridge. Shopping and sight seeing in Manila should be done in the early morning, certainly before eleven o'clock, as business is practically suspended during the heat of the day. In the last few years most of the shop-keepers have learned to speak English. Motoring. The roads built by the Americans in the Philip- pines are equaled only by the roads of Franc . Long automo- bile rides are the delight of the traveler, and several garages have good machines for hire. A visit to Baguio, the summer capital of the Philippines, is of the greatest interest, as it takes the tourist into the interior of the island of Luzon, some distance above the sea level. Touring the Yellowstone National Park, the Won- derland of America Entrances. Modern transportation has made the Yellowstone and its marvels easily accessible. The railroad entrances to the park are on the north and the west. Gardiner, Montana, is the 56 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS northern gateway and Yellowstone, Montana, the western. Camping parties often come into the park through Cody, Wyo- ming, on the east, and Jackson, Wyoming, on the south. Superintendent. The commanding officer at Fort Yellow- stone is acting superintendent of the reservation. All rules and regulations are made by the Department of the Interior, and printed copies of these rules will be found posted in all the hotels and camps in the Park. Government Supervision. Two companies of United States cavalry are stationed at Fort Yellowstone. During the season detachments of these troops are placed in different parts of the reservation. They patrol the Park, guard against forest fires and prevent acts of vandalism. They have authority to arrest anyone violating the Park regulations. Park Transportation. The tour of the Yellowstone is made in stage coaches or surreys, and the transportation facilities found here are a unique feature of the trip. The government has constructed a system of macadamized roads of easy grade throughout the Park, and these are kept sprinkled daily during the season. No railroads, electric lines, or automobiles are allowed to enter the reservation set apart by the government for the preservation of natural phenomena. Through the Park. Travelers through this Wonderland have the choice of stopping at fine hotels, or at permanent or movable camps. On either the hotel trip or camping trip, saddle-horses are obtainable at established rates. The scheduled trip is five and a half days, but there are numerous points of interest to detain the visitor who can spare the time, and stop-over arrange- ments may be made with the transportation agent at the respect- ive stopping points. Numerous tourists organize parties with their own or chartered outfits and stop whenever and wherever they desire. Licenses are granted to firms and individuals to conduct camping parties, and full information about such guides may be obtained from the park superintendent at Mammoth Hot Springs. Baggage. When the tour of the Tark is made by stage- coach a limit of twenty-five pounds is put upon the baggage carried for each individual. Trunks are not transported through the Park, but are stored free of charge at either Gardiner or Yellowstone. There are no photographic restrictions. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 57 Clothing. Warm clothing should be worn, and one should be prepared for sudden changes of weather and altitude. Good everyday clothes, golf and bicycle suits are suitable for both men and women for park traveling. Linen dusters and overcoats may be hired at either entrance and at reasonable prices for the trip through the Park. Wraps should be kept at hand, and easy, thick-soled shoes worn, as at Mammoth Hot Springs and among the geysers tiny streams of warm water may be encoun- tered. Tinted glasses and serviceable gloves should certainly be a part of one's outfit, and a pair of field or opera glasses will be found useful. Hunting. As hunting is forbidden, any firearms carried by tourists are officially sealed at the Park entrance. Severe penal- ties are imposed if the seal is broken within the limits of the Park. All weapons may be left without charge in the care of the officers at the various entrances to the Park. An Excursion to the Grand Canon of Arizona, the Acme of Sublimity The Approach. The traveler usually enters the Grand Canon from W r illiams, Arizona, the ride by rail being of three hours' duration. There is also a first-class wagon road from Flagstaff to the Grand Canon at Grand View, a distance of seventy-five miles. This road is open for travel in spring, summer and fall, and the trip takes two days each way by wagon. Supplies, camp outfits and teams are procurable in Flagstaff. Hotels. There are now two hotels in the vicinity of the Grand Canon, at the head of two of the principal trails, that offer every comfort to the tourist. The water used for all purposes is hauled by rail from Del Rio Springs, over ioo miles distant. A cozy lodging in cabin or tent may be had at camps adjoining these hotels by anyone who prefers the simpler accommodations. Transportation. Horses and carriages may be hired at very reasonable rates for drives along the rim of the Canon; trail animals and guides are furnished for trips down the trails. Horseback riding is a favorite pastime. Clothing. If the tourist intends to do much tramping, stout, thick shoes should be provided. Ladies will find that divided walking skirts are preferable for the horseback journey down 58 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS the zigzag trail. Traveling caps and (in summer) broad- brimmed straw hats and linen dusters are useful adjuncts. Otherwise ordinary clothing will suffice. A field glass should be brought along. Divided skirts and straw hats may be rented at the hotel. Camping Trips. Camping trips with pack and saddle ani- mals, or with wagon and saddle animals, are organized, com- pletely equipped and placed in charge of experienced guides. On account of weather conditions, camping trips from October to April should be planned for points in the Canon, and from April to October they may be planned for both in the Canon and on the rim. Rates vary with the different outings, and arrangements for the trips are made at the Canon hotels, Williams or Flagstaff. Drives. Regular trip drives may be planned, the most inter- esting being to Mohave Point, Hopi Point, Hermit Rim Road, Yavapai and Grandeur Points, Grand Mew, Bright Angel Point and Dripping Springs. Rates vary according to the trip. Trails. The four easiest descents of the south wall of the Canon near the granite gorge are: the Grand View Trail, the Bright Angel Trail, the Hermit Trail and Boucher Trail, at Hermit Basin, and the Bass Trail. Amongst other trails out- side of the district named are Lee's Ferry Trail. Hopi Indian Trail and Diamond Creek Road. At each point the Canon pre- sents a different outlook, and each scene vies with the other in indescribable grandeur. Horseback trips over any of the trails into the Canon are permitted only in the company of a guide. This rule is merely a matter of precaution for the safety of tourists. A Visit to Moki Land, the Home of the Cliff Dwellers of Arizona To Moki Land. An interesting trip to the "mesas" or table- lands upon which the cities of the Hopis are built, can be made by leaving the railroad at Gallup. New Mexico, and driving a distance of one hundred miles across the intervening desert and mountains. Automobiles at a rate of aboul $10.00 per day can be hired to take the traveler very comfortably on his way to the distant pueblos. Stops may be made at the Mission of St. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 59 Michaels and at Ganado. Ganado is an interesting trading post, where the traveler may stop for the night. Winslow, Arizona, is another gateway into this country. From this town it is seventy miles — a two-days' trip — across the desert to the first '"mesa." A wagon or automobile can be hired at Winslow from a liveryman, who will also provide a camping outfit. The Painted Desert. The trip from Winslow to the pueblos is made through the famous Painted Desert of Arizona, and will long be remembered as an event in the life of the traveler. In this region, also, though at a distance of some miles from the road, lie the Petrified Forests of Arizona, the Aztec Ruins and the Indian Hieroglyphics which still puzzle scientists. The vil- lages or pueblos on the mesa in this excursion are Oraibi and Walpi. These are the ones generally visited by travelers. History. In 1540 Francisco Vasquez Coronado, accompanied by several hundred soldiers, invaded this region in search of the mythical seven cities of Cibola. Coronado and his men did not find the golden cities of their quest, but they did discover and conquer the province of Tusayan, now known as Hopi Land or Moki Land. Hopi Houses. The Hopi houses are made of adobe, with flat roofs, from which entrance is made to the rooms below. The roofs are reached by means of ladders, which can be drawn up, making the house then inaccessible to anyone from the street. The houses are placed in clusters high up on the plateau above the surrounding plain, thus giving the name ''cliff-dwellers" to their inhabitants. The rooms are little and low, as the Hopi Indian is of small stature. The floors and walls are clean and the rooms orderly. Danecs. Every month has its own particular festival at which characteristic dances are given. They have different sig- nificances — some are an invocation for rain, others for a boun- tiful harvest, still another for a general thanksgiving, etc. All are picturesque and interesting. Oraibi. The largest and most important of the pueblos is Oraibi. Here, in August of every alternate year, is held the great religious demonstration known as the "Snake Dance." Oraibi is picturesquely situated on a high, rocky plateau or mesa. Its inhabitants have managed to retain the manners and customs 50 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS of their ancestors of centuries past, and also much of their inde- pendence. A stay nf several weeks among this interesting people presents many fascinating features. Artists and students of the tribal customs and ceremonies of the American Indian are often in residence here. Indian houses, clean and comfortable, may always be rented for any length of time desired. South America, the Land of Tomorrow The Voyage. In this most interesting lecture Mr. Holmes suggests that the voyage to South America should begin at Londi in. By starting from the English port the monotony of a continuous sea voyage is broken, various interesting places are visited on the way, and the southern crossing to Pernambuco is usually smoother than the trip down from Xew York. Clothing. Whatever weather prevails in the Northern Hem- isphere when the trip is begun, remember that the exactly op- posite condition of climate will be found when one reaches his destination. Our winter period in the North is the summer time of the dweller on the other side of the Equator, and vice versa. Carry the same kind of clothing that would be needed for similar seasons in the North, providing always for extremes of heat or cold. Veils for protection from mosquitos, and insect powder for an emergency; face cream and plenty of powder, add to the comfort of the traveler; a Spanish phrase book helps him on his way, and a passport prevents difficulties in the matter i if identification. Social Observances. The South American is punctilious in his observance of the graceful things of lift- as shown in dress and manner, is a severe critic of any breach of etiquette, and is intolerant of a brusque manner or a careless or untidy appearance. < >ld Spanish ideas prevail in every country of South America, and any disposition on the part of a stranger to ignore their customs (even though unconsciously, through ignorance) is regarded as the gravest discourtesy and may even be serious in consequence. The South American women arc so carefully guarded from casual acquaintances that the friendly courtesy of the women from the North is often misunderstood and regarded as offensively familiar. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 61 Introduction. Letters of introduction are absolutely essential if the traveler would see the interiors of the beautiful homes and be admitted to the social affairs of the city or country. Hotels. Hotels are quite as usual as those of France or Spain, except that they are apt to be magnificently bare and cold. There is no difficulty in being understood, as English, French, Italian and ( ierman all seem to be spoken with equal facility. A small gratuity is given when leaving the hotel to those who have given personal service. The ordinary speech of the people is a Spanish different in quite a degree from the Castilian. French is used everywhere as the social and diplomatic language. Environment. Travel through South America will be found very similar in every respect to that in the North, the only changes those that would naturally be found in a country where the lan- guage and coinage are different from those of one's native land. If anything, extremes of luxury and privation are to be found as violently contrasted as is possible to be, and either poverty or riches enjoyed or endured with philosophical serenity. The one and only positively necessary thing to observe is a fine and dignified courtesy. This and this only can smooth the travel- er's path and admit him within the circle of reserve which the Latin of South America draws about himself and his affairs. WHAT THE WORLD THINKS OF THE TRAVELOGUES I take very great pleasure in recommending the Burton Holmes Travelogues to all lovers of good literature. Bishop Samuel Fallows, Chicago. One travels along most comfortably from page to page, stopping now and then to admire this or that picture. The incidents present themselves as they do to the real travelers, and the real illusion of travel is very complete. F. W. True, Head Curator, National Museum, Washington, D. C. The Burton Holmes Travelogues give one all the varied pleasure of foreign travel, minus the annoyances. He shows us in every far-away country the very things we should want to see if we could pick up and make the journey. George Ade. The Travelogues by Burton Holmes are without question the greatest work of travel in existence. They cover the entire world both by pen and picture. The author possesses a power and charm of description possessed by no other writer of modern times. F. M. Acton, Probate Judge, Lancaster, Fairfield County, Ohio. A man who ranks today as not only one of the most successful travel- ers, but as one who has the ability to tell others what he sees. Edward K. Bok, Editor of Ladies' Home Journal. We all owe Mr. Holmes a debt of gratitude for putting his splendid pictures and lectures in permanent form. Richard Henry Little, Writer and Journalist, Chicago. A casual glance is sufficient to show that the Burton Holmes Trav- elogues are elegantly gotten up and represent the highest example of printer's art. I have heard many of his lectures and shall take great pleasure in refreshing my memory from the books. F. H. Rawson. President, Union Trust Company, Chicago. The mechanical work is beyond criticism and the illustrations are pointed and lifelike and give a realization of the original which cannot be had except by personal inspection. These volumes in themselves con- tain a liberal education and no one can well afford to be without them. H. St. George Tucker, Dean of the School of Law, George Washington University. The stay-at-home feels that with the Travelogues always at hand he has the best of the bargain, and so, in my opinion, will every owner of these beautifully printed, illustrated, and bound volumes. In them the world becomes an exposition and Air. Holmes' pen and camera the keys that unlock its wonders and spread them before our delighted vision. Chas. E. Pidgin, Author of Quincy Adams Sawyer. The books are a handsome addition to my library, but far better than their beauty, is their attractive and entertaining usefulness. The illustra- tions on every page are exquisite, and emphasize most artistically and clear, terse and discriminating description of strange lands and people. You deserve great praise for placing in our hands such an elegant encyclopaedia of travel at a price so reasonable. HENRY C PATTENGILL, Editor and Proprietor, Moderator — Topics. For those who are unable to avail themselves of travel a? a source ot first-hand information. I know of no substitute so worth-while as the Burton Holmes Travelogues, where the interesting historic places are described so vividly that one enjoys the journey as thoroughly as if he had actually taken it. Xo library can afford to be without a work of this character. Anna C. Gilhay. Director of History Course. Manual Training High School, Kansas City, Mo. The subject-matter is so well arranged and so superbly illustrated that it brings to the reader an enjoyment that is closely akin to that of real trawl, and these books ought to be in all of the elementary schools of our city. W. M. Gregory. Department of Geography, Normal Training School, Cleveland, Ohio. Tf you cannot travel, let Burton Holmes do it for you. If you are con- templating traveling, then acquaint yourself with a set of his journeys, and if you have traveled, by all means enjoy again yoi.r trips in company with his incomparable Travelogues. O. W. Ruggi General Passenger Agent. Michigan Central Railroad. To fully appreciate the Burton Holmes Travelogues, one must possess it. a=; this travel library is pre-eminently in a class by itself, simple, and of intense interest to everybody. My wife and daughter are delighted. We would not be without Travelogues for ten times the price. H. W. Femmer, Attorney & Counsellor-at-Law, St. Louis, Mo. I find in the Burton Holmes Travelogues a reference library that comprehends the world. I cannot imagine a work on travel that will touch as many points as thoroughly and as simply as Mr. Burton Holmes uched them in his superb travel library. Homer Bassford, Associate General Manager, The St. Louis Times, St. Louis, Mo. The increasing vogue of the Travelogues from year to year can only be accounted for on the ground of genuine merit. Mr. Holmes has demon- strated his fitness for the duty of delivering illustrated lectures. His quick and accurate appreciation of art and happy command of language, combine in an endowment that but few can boast. It is not strange, therefore, that he is succeeding. — Cliieago Tribune. Mr. Holmes is an experienced and enthusiastic globe-trotter, a clevei observer, a skilled artist, and as he has been almost everywhere his Trav- elogues are a vivid reflection of his personal experience. — New \ 'ork Herald. Tt gives me much pleasure to say that not only ha; the New St. Louis Star in its library the Burton Holmes Travelogues, but that they are con- sulted frequently and are of inestimable value. Also I have them in my home and enjoy them much. William B. Kexxey, Editor, The New St. Louis Star, St. Louis, Mo. The Travelogues are one of the most valuable sets of books in our library. They are. we believe, consulted more often than any other work- on travel here. We can recommend them as reliable and interesting to a high degree. — Lancaster (.Ohio) Public Library. T recommend the Burton Holme? Travelogues to all who have a desire to get a real idea oi the world abroad as well as th< f our owu country. J. Sherman Porti Managing Editor, The Lexington (Ky.) Herald. GETTY CENTER LIBRARY