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JOURNEY

THROUGH

PERSIA,

ARMENIA, AND ASIA MINOR,

CONSTANTINOPLE,

IN THE YEARS 1808 AND 1809;

IN WHICH IS INCLUDED,

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF HIS MAJESTY'S
MISSION, UNDER SIR HARFORD JONES, BART. K. C.

TO THE COURT OF THE KING OF PERSIA.

BY JAMES MORIER, ESQ.

HIS MAJESTY'S SECRETARY OF EMBASSY TO THE COURT OF PERSIA.

WITH TWENTY-FIVE ENGRAVINGS FROM THE DESIGNS OF THE AUTHOR ;
A PLATE OF INSCEIPTIONS ; AND THREE MAPS;

ONE FROM THE OBSERVATIONS OF CAPTAIN JAMES SUTHERLAND : AND
TWO DRAWN BY MR. MORIER. AND MAJOR RENNELL.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER-ROW,

1812.

PREFACE.

h IN DING, on my arrival in England, that curiosity was quite alive
to every thing connected with Persia, I was induced to publish the
Memoranda which I had already made on that country ; more imme-
diately as I found that I had been fortunate enough to ascertain some
facts, which had escaped the research of other travellers. In this, I
allude more particularly to the sculptures and ruins of Shapour; for
although my account of them is on a very reduced scale, yet I hope
that I have said enough to direct the attention of abler persons than
myself to the investigation of a new and curious subject.

Imperfect as my journal may be, it will, I hope, be found suffi-
ciently comprehensive to serve as a link in the chain of information on
Persia, until something more satisfactory shall be produced; and it
claims no other merit than that of having been written on the very spots,
and under the immediate circumstances, which I have attempted to
describe. Having confined myself, with very few exceptions, to the
relation of what I saw and heard, it will be found unadulterated by
partiality to any particular system, and unbiassed by the writings and
dissertations of other men. Written in the midst of a thousand cares,
it claims every species of indulgence.

Vlll

PREFACE.

The time of my absence from England comprehends a space of
little more than two years. — On the 27th of Oct. Ib07, I sailed from
Portsmouth with Sir Harford Jones, Bart. K. C. His Majesty's
Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of
Persia, in H. M. S. Sapphire, Captain George Davies : after having
touched at Madeira and at the Cape of Good Hope, we reached
Bombay on the 26th of April, 1808 : owing to some political arrange-
ments we did not quit Bombay till the 12th September. We arrived at
Bushire on the 13th October, and proceeded towards the Persian
capital on the 13th December. H. M. Mission reached Teheran on the
14th February, 1809 : on the 12th March the preliminary treaty was
signed between Sir Harford Jones and the Persian Plenipoten-
tiaries; and on the 7th May I quitted Teheran with Mirza Abul
Hassan, the King of Persia's Envoy Extraordinary to the Court of
London, with whom I reached Smyrna on the 7th September, and em-
barked there on board H. M. S. Success, Captain Ayscough. Having
at Malta changed the Success for H. M. S. Formidable, vre finally reached
Plymouth on the 25th November, 1809-

I should be wanting in gratitude, if I did not here express the
obligations which I owe to my fellow traveller, Mirza Abul Hassan,
the late Persian Envoy Extraordinary, for much information on sub-
jects relating to his own country, and for all the facilities of acquiring
his language, which his communicative and amiable disposition afforded
me. As this personage was distinguished, during his stay in England,
by attentions more marked and continued than, perhaps, were ever
paid to any foreigner, I have conceived that I should not trespass too
much on the patience of my readers by inserting a sketch of his life ;*

* See Chapter XII. p. 220-3.

PREFACE. ix

I feel at least that it will prove very acceptable to those who have
shown him, as a stranger, so much friendship and hospitality.

In my narrative I have confined myself to relate our proceedings
from the time we left Bombay to my arrival at Constantinople. The
sea voyages, from England to India, and from Constantinople to
England, are too well known to require any thing more to be written
about them.

The engravings that are inserted are made from drawings which I
took on the spot ; they are done in a slight manner, and therefore are
more intended to give general ideas, than to enter into any nicety
of detail.

For the map from Bushire to Teheran I am indebted to my friend
Captain James Sutherland, of the Bombay army; and for the
general one of the countries, through which my route carried me, I
must here return my thanks to Major Ren nell, who has furnished me
with this valuable document, and who has kindly assisted me in this, as
well as on other occasions when I found myself deficient, with his
advice and information. The map from Teheran to Amasia is the result
of my own observation, corrected by the same masterly hand. It ter-
minates at Amasia, because my journey from that place to Const anti'
nople was performed as much by night as it was by day, and prosecuted
with too great speed to permit me to observe with accuracy. Besides
which, in Turkey, where the people are much more jealous and watchful
of travellers than in Persia, I found that I could not make my remarks
so much at my ease as I wished, although assisted by the disguise of a
Persian dress. The courses and distances, noted in the journal, are only
to be regarded as a kind of dead reckoning, subject to correction by the
application of latitudes in certain places, and of approximated posi*

x PREFACE.

tions in others; and, in all, by allowances for the inflexions and
inequalities of the roads.

I am indebted to Messrs. Jukes and Bruce, of the Bombay
service, for the information which they furnished me whilst I was in
Persia, and I have not failed to make my acknowledgments, wherever
such information has been inserted.

But I must, in particular, express my gratitude to Mr. Robert
Harry Inglis, for the kindness with which he offered to correct and
arrange my memoranda, and prepare my journals for the press.*

I beg leave to repeat that this volume is meant merely as provi-
sional, and that I am far from entertaining the presumption that it
will class with the valuable pages of Chardin, Le Brun, Hanway,
Niebuhr, or Olivier. It is to be expected, that the extensive com-
munication that will be opened with Persia, in consequence of our late
political transactions with its court, will throw the whole extent of
that very interesting part of the globe under our eognizance ; and that,
among other subjects of inquiry, its numerous antiquities, which have
as yet been but imperfectly explored, will throw new lights upon its
ancient history, manners, religion, and language.

* The Editor is further responsible for the account of the pirates, and of Shapour ; and
for the notes, except those within inverted commas, which are taken from MSS. of Mr.
Moiuer.

INTRODUCTION.

1 HE history of Persia from the death of Nadir Shah to the
accession of the present King, comprehending a period of fifty-one
years, presents little else than a catalogue of the names of tyrants
and usurpers, and a succession of murders, treacheries and scenes
of misery.

After the assassination of Nadir, one of the most formidable of
the competitors for the vacant throne, was Mahomed Hassan
Khan, the head of the Cadjar tribe, and a person of high rank
among the nobles of Shah Thamas, the last king of the Seffi race.*

* The Cadjars, according to Olivier, are a tribe of Turkish origin, who took refuge
in Persia under the reign of Shah Abbas I. and received there the name of Cadjars or
fugitives. See Foster, ii. 198. The historians of Nadir Shah mention (as one of the
chiefs of that tribe, in the time of Shah Tahmas,) Futteh Ali Khan. Olivier states
that in 1723 he was nominated to the government of Mazanderan ; and that, when Nadir
Shah assumed the crown, he resisted his authority, was defeated and killed. In Jones's
Nadir, lib. i. c. xi. there appears a Fethali Khan, whose history accords better with the
allusion in the text, p. 242. Compare the Phatali Khan of Bell, vol. i. and Fraser 1 *

Xll

INTRODUCTION.

Mahomed Hassan Khan had several sons: Hossein Kooli
Khan, the eldest, was father to the present King of Persia, and
was killed in a battle with the Turcomans : Aga Mahomed Khan, the
second son, was the immediate predecessor of his nephew on the
throne.

Mahomed Hassan Khan had not long assumed the crown, when
he was opposed by Kerim Khan, a native of Courdistan; who,
under pretence of protecting the rights of Ism a el,* a lineal descen-
dant of the Seffi family, and then a child, secured to himself so large
a share of influence and authority in the state, that he very soon
supplanted virtually the pageant that he had erected; and, while he
still concealed his ambition under the name of Vakeel or Regent, exer-
cised all the real powers of the sovereign of Persia. The birth of
Kerim Khan was obscure; but the habits of his early years qualified
him for the times in which he lived, and the destiny to which he

Nadir Shah, p. 89. His eldest son was Mahomed Hassan Khan, whose pretensions
and rise and fall are stated fully by Olivier, vol. vi. 13-17-82, and whose history, (under
his various names of Baba Khan, Mumtaz Khan, Fultra Alla Khan, &c.) is noticed
in Franrlin, p. 299. Ives, p. 220. Foster, vol. ii. 199. Tooke's Catherine, ii. 60>
Scott Waring, &c. &c.

* Ismael was said by his first patron, Ali Merdan Khan Backtyari, to be the son
of Seyd Moustaph a, by a daughter of Shah Hussein. Olivier, vi. 21. He was the
pageant recognised by three several competitors; he was first proclaimed King by Ali
Merdan, again in 1756, by Kerim ; and a third time, in the same year, by Mahomed
Hassan, who, like his immediate rivals, and like Nadir, still in his first successes pre*
fessed himself to be the slave of the rightful monarch.

INTRODUCTION.

aspired. His family, indeed, was a low branch of an obscure tribe in
Courdistan, that of the Zunds, from which his dynasty has been deno-
minated ; and his profession was the single occupation of all his coun-
trymen, robbery * which, when it thus becomes a national object, loses
in reputation all its grossness. Here he acquired the talents and
hardihood of a soldier; and was renowned for an effectual spirit of
enterprise, and for great personal skill in the exercise of the sword, a
qualification of much value among his people. The long revolutions
of Persia called forth every talent and every passion ; and the hopes of
Kerim Khan were excited by the partial successes of others, and
by the consciousness of his own resources. He entered the field ; and
eventually overcame Mahomed Hassan Khan, his principal compe-
titor, who fled and was killed in Mazanderan. The conqueror having
seized and confined the children of his rival, proceeded to quell the
several inferior chiefs, who, in their turns, had aspired to the succes-
sion. His superior activity and talents finally secured the dominion :
and having, in 1755, settled at Shiraz, he made that city the seat of
his government. He beautified it by many public buildings, both of
use and luxury ; and their present state attests the solid magnificence of
his taste. His memory is much lamented in Persia ; as his reign, a
reign of dissipation and splendor, was congenial to the character of the
people. In his time prostitutes were publicly protected ; their calling was
classed among the professions ; and the chief, or representative, of their

* " He made no scruple of avowing that in his youth he pursued the occupation of a
" robber ; and that his fore teeth had been demolished by the kick of an ass which he
*' had stolen and was carrying off." Foster's Travels, vol. ii. p. £41*

XlV

INTRODUCTION.

numbers, attended by all the state and parade of the most respected
of the Khans and Mirzas, used daily to stand before the Sovereign at
his Durbar.

On the 13th of March, 1779, Kerim Khan died a natural death,
an extraordinary occurrence in the modern history of Persia, having
reigned (according to the different dates assigned to his accession,
from the deaths of different competitors) from nineteen to thirty years.
From the fall of Mahomed Hassan Khan the better epoch, his
conqueror lived nineteen years, with almost undisputed authority.

After his death all was again in confusion; and the kingdom pre-
sented a renewal of blood and usurpation. It is scarcely necessary to
state the short-lived struggles of his successors : their very names have
ceased to interest us. It is sufficient therefore to add, that his sons
and brothers, and other relatives, attacked each other for fourteen years
after his death ; till the fortunes of the whole family were finally over-
whelmed in the defeat of Loolf Ali Khan, the last and greatest of
these claimants ; and the dominion was transferred, in the year 1794,
to his conqueror, Aga Mahomed Khan, of the present royal race
of Persia.

In latter years, during the war between the East India Company
and Tippoo Saib, under the administration of the Marquis Welles-
ley, the political relations of England and Persia were renewed. An
embassy, which Tippoo sent to Fatteh Ali Shah, the present King
of Persia, was followed soon after by a rival mission, which the Indian
government confided to the care of Mehede Ali Khan, a man of

INTRODUCTION.

Persian extraction. In the mean time, indeed, Tippoo was killed;
and his death left us in possession of the Persian councils. After this
Captain Malcolm, in the year 1801, was sent to solicit the alliance
of Persia against Ze maun Shah, King of the Afghans. That gen-
tleman concluded a treaty,* by which it was stipulated that Persia
should attack Khorassan and the Afghan States, and that we should
contribute our assistance in the expences of the war. The King of
Persia carried his arms into Khorassan, and conquered that province.

The mission of Captain Malcolm was returned by one from
the King of Persia to the Indian Government. Hajee Kelil
Khan was sent as the embassador, but unfortunately he was killed in
a fray at Bombay, as he was attempting to quell a disturbance be-
tween his servants and some Indians. To explain this untoward event,
Mr. Lovett, a gentleman in the Bengal civil service, was dispatched;
but he proceeded no further with his mission than to Bushire, and de-
livered it over to Mr. Ma nest y, the East India Company's Resident
at Bussorah. Another embassy was now sent from the Persian Court ;
and Mahomed Nebee Khan, the Envoy appointed, luckily reached
Calcutta without any accident.

Some time after, French agents were traced into Persia, and the
views of France begun to be suspected. Monsieur Jouannin, an
intelligent Frenchman, succeeded in getting the Persian Court to send
a mission to Buonaparte. The Envoy, by name Mirza Reg a,
went from Persia in 1806 ; and concluded a treaty with France at

* The treaty forms the Appendix to General Malcolm's Political History of India,
p. 533-549. 5

XVI

INTRODUCTION.

Finkinstein, in May 1807. On his return, a large embassy, confided
to General Gardanne, was sent from France to Persia: this gave
rise to the mission of Sir Harford Jones, who, arriving at Bombay
in April 1808, found that Brigadier-General Malcolm had been pre-
viously sent by the Governor-General to Persia. General Malcolm
having failed of success, Sir Harford Jokes proceeded.

PLATES.

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

PAGE

I. General Map of the Countries to face the Title.

II. Cape Arubuh ----- ------- 3

III. Island of Ashtolah - - - - - 4

IV. Cape Posmee ------------------ 4

V. Cape Musseldom ----------------- 6

VI. View of Bushire - - - 58

VII. Map from Bushire to Teheran ------------ C8

VIII. Persian on horseback smoaking ------------ 70

IX. View of Shapour - _____-_-- 86

X. Sculpture at Shapour ----- -- 88

XI. Sculpture at Shapour .-_--.-.__ 00

XII — XIII. Sculptures at Shapour ------.-------- 01

XIV. View of Shiraz - - - 106

XV. Sculpture at A r akshi Rust am ------------- 125

XVI. Sculpture at Nakshi Rustam ------------- 127

XVII. Sculpture at Nakshi Rustam 128

XVIII. View of Perscpo/is ---------------- 132

XIX. Sculpture at Nakshi Radjab, near Persepolis -------- 137

XX. Sculpture at Nakshi Radjab, near Persepolis - ------ 133

XXI. Tomb of Madre Suleiman - - - - - - - 146

XXII. View of Ispahan - - - 169

XXIII. View of Teheran - --------------- 185

XXIV. Takht-a-Cadjar - - - 226

XXV. Map from Teheran to Amasia __...._ 240

XXVI. Sultanieh - - - ---------- 257

XXVII. Bridge over the Kizzil Ozan - 267

XXVIII. Mount Ararat - 306

XXIX. Plate of Inscriptions _.--. 357

c§

ERRATA.

P. 176. Twenty-two lines from the top, for twelve, read sixteen
P. 257. Sixteen lines from the top, for four, read five.

JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA,

&c. Sec. Sec.

CHAP. I.

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY LAVn OY OUZERAT COAST OF MEK-

RAN — BALOUCHES — ENTRANCE OF THE GULPH OF PERSIA—
IMAUM OF MUSCAT: HIS FLEET — SOUNDINGS IN THE GULPH—
BUSHIRE — VISIT OF THE SHEIK — LANDING IN PERSIA.

ON the 6th of September 1808, when His Majesty's Mission to the
court of Teheran was still at Bombay, the Envoy extraordinary, Sir Har-
ford Jones, received dispatches from the Governor-general at Calcutta,
which determined him to proceed immediately to Persia. The esta-
blishment of the mission had been changed since our arrival in India ;
Major L. F. Smith, who left England as public Secretary, on landing
at this settlement proceeded to Bengal; and the duties of Secre-
tary of the Legation were annexed to those, which, as private secre-
tary to the Envoy, I had originally discharged. The suite was aug-
mented at Bombay by Mr. Thomas Henry Sheridan, and Captain
James Sutherland, severally of the civil and military establishments
of that presidency, by Cornet Henry Wil lock, of the Madras ca-
valry, commander of the body guard ; and was subsequently joined by

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

Lieutenant Blacker, of the Madras cavalry, and Mr. Campbell,
surgeon to the mission. Besides three European and some Indian ser-
vants, the Envoy carried washermen and tailors, and some artificers, as
carpenters, blacksmiths, and locksmiths.

On the 12th Sept. Sir Harford Jones, accompanied by Mr. She-
ridan and myself, embarked on board his Majesty's frigate Nereide,
Captain Corbett ; Capt. Sutherland and Mr. Willock went in
the Sapphire, Capt. Davis : and the H. C. cruizer Sylph earned the
Persian secretary, &c. The Governor of Bombay drew out the troops
of the garrison to salute the Envoy on his embarkation : they formed
a lane from the government-house to the entrance of the dock-yard ;
and as He passed the troops presented arms, and the music played
" God save the King/' A salute of fifteen guns was fired on his
quitting the shore, and was answered by another from the frigate; a
ceremony which always excites a powerful feeling of respect in the
minds of the natives.

In the afternoon of the 12th, the squadron left the harbour of
Bombay : on the 13th, the Nereide had out-stripped the Sapphire, and
had lost sight of the Sylph. The winds were variable and squally : the
thermometer in the cabin stood at 82°. About ten o'clock, on the
morning of the 14th. we made the land of Diu; we stood close in shore,
and tacked at twelve o'clock ; the Portuguese colours were flying on the
fort. The thermometer was this day 80°. 15th. calms. The land of
the Guzerat is extremely low. Diu Point is studded with towns and
pagodas. 16th. we made but little way ; tacked off and on shore, and
distinguished a variety of buildings and towns on the coast. The
largest place, which we marked in our progress, was Pour-bundar. The
coast itself continued flat, with scarcely an inequality.

On Sunday, the 18th. Capt. Corbett read prayers to the ship's
company on the quarter-deck. The scene struck me as more simple
and more impressive than any that, for a long time, I bad witnessed.
The cleanliness of the ship, the attention of the sailors, the beauty of
the day, all conspired to heighten the solemnity of the service, and I

WsBSBm

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRB. 5

felt persuaded that the prayers, offered up to God by such men and in
such a manner, would be favourably accepted.

As the coast of Meier an, (taken largely, from the Indus to the
entrance of the gulph of Persia,) along which we now sailed, is so
little visited in this age, and has, indeed, been so seldom described
since the days of Alexander, it may, perhaps, be acceptable to
insert even the few and incomplete notices of the country which my
journal affords.

On the 18th. we lost sight of the coast. On the 24th we again saw
land, which in appearance was remarkable. It was a very long range of
table land, the soil of which, though light coloured, was strongly marked
in horizontal strata. As we approached it, we discovered several curious
capes, rising in a varied succession of grotesque forms; and among
them one so very singular, that we were surprised that it had not been
particularly described by those who have compiled the directories for
navigating these seas. By our chronometers we took this land to be
Cape Moran* The shore gradually shallows from twelve to five
fathoms, when we tacked and stood off again in the evening, expecting
a land breeze to spring up, but were disappointed. The sea is here very
much discoloured, the effect probably of black mud at the bottom.

25th. Sept. Cape Arubah is a long slip of table land, which on
its first appearance looks like an island .-f* Its soil seems to be clay,
and of a colour a few shades darker than Portland stone. Wc did
not discover, among the head-lands into which it was broken, the parti-
cular cape which might have given its name to the whole ; but the highest
point to the westward appeared to deserve the preference. Beyond that
western extremity of the table land, the coast immediately recedes into a
bay, which is terminated by a long range of extremely rugged moun-

* The Malana of Vincent's Nearchus, p. 197. Horseburgh notice* it very slightly,
K in coasting to the westward from Hinglah, another point called Muran is discerned."
p. 231. " Directions, &c." #

i The log of the Nereide, Sept. 26th, seems to refer to it, as " the above island."

B 2

4 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

tains. In one of the recesses of the cliffs ofArubah, we fancied that we
had discovered a village, and even through our glasses were still positive
that we could mark its white buildings ; but as we drew closer to the
shore, we ascertained that the houses in appearance were in reality large
clods of white soil, which had fallen from the cliffs above, and were
arranged so happily, some in separate piles, and some in rows, as to give
to the whole the full effect of a town. A number of small boats with
white lateen sails were creeping quietly along the shore, as we passed ;
but we could not get close enough to them, to ascertain the people who
managed them, or the nature of the goods which they carried.

On the 26th. the weather was very foggy ; the thermometer was 75°.
On the 27th. as the fog still increased, we came to an anchor in nine
fathoms. On the 28th. as the fog cleared away, we discovered the
small island of Ashtola, which is of an equal height along its whole
extent, a length perhaps of about two miles, and seems to be of the
same soil as the capes on the mainland. Not far from the island, we
caught turtle. The continent as seen from Ashtola, appears extremely
high, in long continued ranges ; but the lands which more immediately
border on the sea, are very low. The soundings are regular, and there is
no danger, as long as the lead is going. At eight o'clock we were off
Cape Posmee, a remarkable head-land.

On the 1st of October, we made Cape Guadel, a piece of land of a mode-
rate and rather equal height, which projects far into the sea, and is con-
nected with the continent by an isthmus less than half a mile in breadth.
Close under the north side of the cape, there is still a town ; and on the
isthmus, as we could perceive from the ship, are the remains of^ an old
fort. In the neighbourhood are the vestiges of a town also, built with
stone, and some wells.* But the more modern village of Guadel is

* In 1581, the Portuguese (according to their historian Faria y Sousa) after having
surprised and burnt " the beautiful and rich city Pesani" destroyed " Guadel, not infe-
rior." Asia Portuguesa, vol. ii. 37m They appear to have had afterwards a settlement
there themselves; vol. iii. p. 416; which before 1613 had probably been resumed from its

mmsm

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. $

composed of mat houses, and the greater part of the inhabitants (the
number of the whole is very small) are weavers, who manufacture coarse
linen and carpets of ordinary colours. From Crotchey to Cape Monze
the people call themselves Balouches ; and from Monze to Cape Jasques,
they take the name of Brodies : there is some difference in their language,
perhaps in their religion also, but none in their dress or manners. The
high lands about Cape Guadel are all extremely remarkable, rising in
spires and turrets so correctly formed, as to give to many parts of the
coast, an appearance of towns with their churches and castles.

Their rocky summits, split and rent,

Form'd turret, dome, and battlement,

Or seem'd fantastically set

With cupola or minaret,

Wild crests as pagod ever deck'd

Or mosque of eastern architect.

Lady of the Lake, Canto I. xi. p. 14.

One piece of land in particular, forming an entrance to the bay behind
Cape GuadeU has the most striking resemblance to a long range of
gothic ruin. We perceived three camels grazing on the heights of the
cape, and some few signs of cultivation, which we had discovered on no
other spot along the coast before.

On the 3d. we saw the town of Chubar; and plainly distinguished
among other objects a walled building, which we at first took to be a
fort, but which according to the Directory, is a place of burial. We
saw several boats with lateen sails, of a canvas very conspicuously
white, cut exactly like the sails of the boats on the coast of Italy and
Sicily. The thermometer was 84°. The 5th. was very sultry, and the

European possessors, for Herbert in passing it, observes, " beware by Sir Robert
" Sherlye's example of Cape Guader * * * an infamous port and inhabited by a perfidious
" people. Under pretext of amity they allured Sherlye and his lady ashoare, A. 1613;
" where but for a Hodgee that understood their drift and honestly revealed it, they had been
" murdered with Newport their captaine; and merely to play the theeves with them,"
Herbert's Travels, p. 113. Ed. 1638.

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

thermometer was 90°. On the 6th. a hot wind came from off the land,
and warped the tables, mathematical rulers, and the furniture in the
cabin, besides slackening all our rigging. This wind brought with it a
thick mist of an impalpable sand, which gradually cleared away, and
left us the first view of Cape Jasques.

Oct. 7th. at about one o'clock in the morning, a breeze sprung
up from the southward, and in five hours we had passed the Quoins, in
the Gulph of Persia, and were abreast of the island of Kishmis. We saw
at the same time the high land of the Arabian shore, terminating in a
lofty and marked peak; it is the land about Cape Musseldom. The
entrance of the gulph may be properly marked between Cape Bomba-
reek and Cape Musseldom. I call these places by their names, as laid
down in our sea charts ; because their more proper appellations would
probably not be understood. Bothbareek for instance, which by sailors
is also called Bombay rock, is derived originally from " Moobarek,
" happy, fortunate." Musseldom is still a stronger instance of the per-
version of words. The genuine name of this head-land is Mama Selemeh,
derived according to the story of the country from Selemeh, who was a
female saint of Arabia, and lived on the spot or in its neighbourhood.
The Indians, when they pass the promontory, throw cocoa nuts, fruits
or flowers into the sea, to secure a propitious voyage. My informer
added, that the superstition was not practised by the Persians.

On the shore of Cape Bombareek is an insulated and very singular
mass of rock, in which we could perceive from the ship a large natu-
ral aperture. To me the shape of the whole mass appeared like a
tankard, and the aperture formed its handle. After having rounded
Cape Musseldom (which is eighteen leagues to the westward of Bom-
bareek), we came to the five small islands generally called altogether
the Quoins.

Kishmis is the largest island in the gulph; and, according to the ac-
count which I received, is capable of being made very productive : it is
at present in almost total abandonment, though still nominally the pro-
perty of Persia. We next passed two small and low islands, called the
Great and Little Tomb.

^ ;

■

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

The strong south wind, with which we were now favoured, was at this
season considered extraordinary. It blew so strong that the Nereide,
with every sail set, went ten and eleven knots. It is accompanied with
much haze, not indeed to be compared to that which came with the hot
wind from off the shore, though in the same manner it warped the fur-
niture and slackened the rigging.

On the 8th. we passed the island of Busheab, which, in Heather's
map, is placed much too far to the eastward, and which ought to be
called " Khoshaub, or pleasant water/' from the fresh spring in its ter-
ritory. Tt is a long and low slip, but the land on the continent behind
it is extremely high. We had a light sea breeze all day, that carried us
off Cape Nabon, a part of the province of Farz. The thermometer
stood at 93° in the cabin after dinner. On the morning of the 9th. it
was reported that a fleet of five ships were seen from the mast-head.
We conjectured that they might be Arab ships, bound from Muscat to
Bussorah, which about this season proceed on their voyages. They
carry thither annually eight thousand bales of -coffee; and in return
get cargoes of dates. The sea breeze of the day was extremely
light, and set in at noon. In the evening the Barnhill, a remarkable
piece of land, (which derived its name from its resemblance to an
eld and decayed thatched building, and which is situated over the
town of Congoon,) bore N. and by W. of us. Here the whole coast is
very high.

On the morning of the 10th. we were off the Barnhill. The
five ships had thus far kept us in a state of suspense ; as we imagined
that they might be the fleet of the Imaum of Muscat, who possesses
thirty sail of different descriptions. Some of his ships, indeed, are of a
thousand tons burthen ; and one of forty guns, built at Bombay ', is rather
a formidable vessel * The Imaum in person frequently parades about

* Jackson mentions in 1797 one of bis ships, which carried upwards of a thousand
saen. — Journey, p. 8.

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

the Persian gulph with his armament. He is an independant prince,
and his jurisdiction, though principally confined to Muscat, extends yet
generally over the province of Oman. At present he is friendly to us,
and we have a resident at his court, who seldom remains there long, for
the badness of its air has rendered it the burial place of too many
Englishmen.

At length we boarded the Arabs, and they proved to be, as we had
originally expected, a fleet of the hnawris merchantmen, laden with
coffee, rice, Sec. bound to Bushire and Bussorah. They had been
fifteen days from Muscat. One of the five was a fine vessel of six hun-
dred tons burthen, which about four years before was purchased by the
Imaum at the Isle of France, and was then called the Sterling Castle.
There were also two grabs, which are ships in every respect like the
others, except that they have lengthened prows instead of rounded
bows. These grabs the Arabs can manage to build themselves in their
own ports, as it is easy to extend the timbers of a ship, until they con-
nect themselves into a prow ; but they have not yet attained the art of
forming timber fit to construct bows.

Before the sunset of the preceding day, we had discovered through
our glasses, the town of Congoon, under a peak, close in the eastern
vicinity of the Barnhill. It then appeared in a wood of dates, above
which rose the domes of mosques. The Sheik of Congoon is represented
as a young and spirited Arab, who can raise a body of two thousand
cavalry, and who is able to lead them. His town is resorted to for wood,
but, as far as we could judge at a distance, the date is the only tree of
the neighbourhood.

We suffered much from the heat in the night, but when the moon rose
over the Barnhill, a little refreshing breeze sprang up, which gave us
much relief. An Arab ship was not far from us, and I could just hear
their singing on board. It brought to my recollection some of the moon-
light scenes in the Archipelago ; for the music of these Arabs struck me
as being very similar to that which I have heard on board a Greek or

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

Sclavonian ship, when the lyra accompanies the voice of some naval
Apollo, and is followed by a chorus of his shipmates.

We were off Cape Verdistan this morning, and descried the Hummocks
of Kenn. The shoal that runs out from Cape Verdistan, is rendered
dangerous by a reef of rocks which extends itself about six or seven
miles from the shore. There are good mud soundings on the shoal, and
a ship may cross its extremity without danger, though it is as well to
give it a good birth. We stood off in the night of the 12 th. The sound-
ings in the shoal as laid down by Mac Cluer are not all correspondent
to those which we got. We were in seven fathoms for more than an
hour, and he has not got such a sounding amongst his. From seven we
got to half six, and then to four, when we thought it time to tack. The
cause which has been assigned for our ignorance of the gulph, is the
prudential reserve which has influenced our Indian governments in their
transactions with the states of Persia and Arabia. To avoid suspicion
and complaint, they have never professedly made surveys of the shores,
though much might yet have been done indirectly, if the object had
been considered of sufficient importance. Few, except merchant
vessels visited the gulph ; and as the charts, which they already pos-
sessed (and what is better, their own experience) served their purpose
sufficiently in the line of their own navigation, there was seldom any
particular demand for more correct surveys. The geographer and
philosopher indeed require something more, and therefore it is still
matter of regret, that we are comparatively ill-informed in countries,
where we have had easy opportunities of acquiring knowledge.

13th Oct. We were becalmed all night under the Asses Ears. These
are points of land, which stand a little more erect, and are more con-
spicuous than the other points which surround them. The whole
displays a line of coast the most rugged, barren, and inhospitable that I
ever saw ; and constitutes, after we passed Verdistan shoal, a very bold
shore. We sailed along it, keeping in eleven and twelve fathoms. In
the evening we opened Hallilah peak, which is a high and remarkable

30MBAY TO BUSHIRE.

point of land. As we crept along the coast, we marked some ruined
walls embosomed among the date trees.* At sunset we just dis-
covered tha low land on which stands the town of Bushire. In the
calms which followed during the night, we were unable to make
much way, and on the morning of the 14th we were still at the same
distance from Bushire, as on the preceding evening. We fired two
shots at a small vessel, to bring her too, but without effect. These
boats are employed mostly in carrying wood to Bushire. They find it
on the coast, probably in recesses of the land, for we could scarcely see
a shrub in the whole passage of the gulph.

At about half past three o'clock on the 14th October, we anchored in
B ushire roads, where we found one of the Company's cruizers, and a mer-
chantman. Before we cast anchor, a boat came off from the shore, the
captain of which, a little sharp Persian, answered Sir Harford Jones's
interrogations with much vivacity, and swore to the truth of every asser-
tion ten times over by his head and eyes. Having learnt that the East
India Company's assistant resident, Mr. Bruce, was at Bushire, the
Envoy sent a letter to desire his attendance on board immediately, and at
the same time requesting that he would notify the arrival of the mission
to the Sheik, Abdallah Resoul, who then governed Bushire. We
could see with our glasses Mr. Bruce's residence, which was at some
distance without the town, and could observe that the letter had been
safely c elivered ; for in a few minutes we discovered Mr. Bruce on
horseback, riding full speed to the boat. In an hour he was on
board.

He commenced by informing us of a report of the death of our King,
which had reached Bushire from Bagdad; and which, originating from
an article in a French paper, had been circulated in Persia by the
French, for an obvious purpose. The Envoy delivered to Mr. Bruce,

* Probably the ruins of Reshire.

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

a paper containing all the communications which he wished to be
made to the Sheik of Bushire. He then added, desiring that his object
might be clearly explained, that He expected from the Sheik all the
respect due to the station which he filled, and that if he did not
receive those honours to which the King of England's Mis ion was
entitled, the Sheik should be held responsible till the wishes of the
court of Persia were known. Mr. Bruce assured Sir Harford that
the *S7*eiA; would make no difficulty in coming off the next day to
pay his respects, and the hour of his visit was in consequence fixed at
ten o'clock.

The colours of the New Factory in the country, and of the Old one in
the town, were hoisted on the morning of the 15th. While we were ex-
pecting the arrival of the Sheik, we regaled ourselves with the grapes,
citrons, and pomegranates, which had been sent to us from the shore.
At length we espied a boat with a crimson awning, and apparently
much filled with passengers. It was beating against the sea breeze,
which, rather unfortunately for the party, had set in uncommonly fresh.
When she came in a line with our ship, the sail was lowered, and the
men took to their oars. In a short time however we observed from the
frigate, that the boat got very slowly a-head, and that the strength of the
crew was nearly exhausted. Captain Corbett then sent his barge to
tow up the Sheik to the ship, which w T as done in a very masterly style ;
and we were delighting in the idea of the enjoyment which the
Persians must have received in the close at least of such an excursion,
when we were mortified at discovering the misery in every face, which
the unusual voyage had too evidently produced. But the sea-sickness
was forgotten as soon as they were on board the frigate. The Sheik was
received with a salute of five guns ; the number was esteemed a mark
of particular distinction, as three are considered in Persia a sufficient
allowance for a great man.

The marines were under arms ; Captain Corbett with much
courtesy handed him across the quarter-deck, and assisted him with
some difficulty to descend from the deck to the cabin by a steep and

C 2

lft

BOMBAY TO BUSHIIiE.

narrow ladder, which, however, no attention could render convenient to
a man encumbered with an immense large cloak and slip-shod slippers.
At the bottom he was received by Sir Hakford Jones. The ship was
immediately filled by the suite of the Sheik, who, with all the curiosity
and effrontery of Asiatics, spread themselves through every part. Our
guest was attended on his visit by the principal men and merchants of
Bus/lire, among whom the Envoy recognised the face of many an early
friend. All the party seemed much pleased with their reception, and
expressed their high admiration of the beauty, order, and cleanliness of
the ship. The conversation was general, and consisted mostly m
inquiries after former friends, and in reviving the recollection of the
histories of old times. Sir Harford Jones had known the Sheik
when he was a fine boy : there was now indeed little left to be admired;
his face was inanimate, and his body bent double with excessive,
debauch. The whole party were generally but a rude sample of the
elegance of Persians, nor indeed is the true Persian to be found at
Bushire, where the blood is mostly mixed with that of Arabia.

The only man of the party, whose face interested me, and exhibited
signs of intelligence, was a Turk, by name Ardulla Aga^ an old
friend of the Envoy's, who had been Masselim of Bussor&h* and had
ruled that part of the country for many years, with great respectability
and eclat. He had been driven by injustice to take refuge at Bmhive ;
though from the known integrity of his character, and the attachment
of the people of Bussorah and Bagdad to his person,, many still expect
that he will one day attain the FachaUek of Bagdad- After this good
Mussulman, spreading his carpet near one of the: twelve pounders, had
said his prayers, (with a fervency, undisturbed by the busy, novel and
noisy scene around him) the visit broke up.

The Sheik and Abdulla Aga, who both, had suffered: by their long
excursion in the morning, preferred to return on shore in the Nereide'&
boat with Sir Harford Jones. We bad not long put off from the
ship, when a salute of fifteen guns commenced to« the enwy, to the great
consternation of the reaaaining part of the Ifersiansv wbo; were just

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

embarking in their own boat, and who unluckily found themselves under
the muzzles of the guns, where they were involved in clouds of smoke,
with the wads whistling close to their ears. We at length reached the
landing place ; an immense crowd was assembled to await our
debarkation. The Sheik had collected all the soldiery of the town to
escort us to his house ; and in the moment of our touching the shore, the
whole mob was put in motion, raising a dust so thick that I could scarce
distinguish Englishman from Asiatic. To add to the denseness of
the atmosphere, the boats, which were close to the beach, commenced
a salute ; which was immediately answered by a range of guns on the
coast. The whole procession was obliged to pass in the immediate
rear of these guns as they were firing, though they appeared so old
and honey-combed, that I feared they must have burst before the
honours were over. We proceeded in a cloud of dust, and through
streets six feet wide to the Sheik's house, and at length entered i* by a
door so mean and ill-looking, that it might more properly have formed
the entrance to his stable. This door introduced us into a small court
yard, on one side of which was an apartment where we seated ourselves
on chairs placed on purpose for us. A Persian visit, when the guest is
a distinguished personage, generally consists of three acts : first, the
kaleoun, or water pipe, and coffee ; second, a kaleoun, and sweet coffee
(so called from its being a composition of rose-water and sugar) ; and
third, a kaleoun by itself. Sweetmeats are frequently introduced as a
finale. As I shall have many better opportunities of describing all the
ceremonies of these occasions, it is sufficient to add at present, that we
performed the three above acts, and then mounted our horses for Mr.
Bruce's house in the country.

Part of the same armed rabble, which had escorted us from the boat
to the Sheik's house, attended us to the Factory. These soldiers are the
militia of the place, and serve without pay. They even find their own
arms, which consist of a matchlock, a sword, and a shield that is slung
behind their back. They consist of working men attached to different
trades, for we discovered the dyer by the black hue of his hands, the

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

tinker by the smut on his face, the tailor by the shreds that had adhered
to him from his shopboard.

On our arrival at the Factory, we closed our dispatches for Europe,
and then completed a day full of entertainment, by an excellent
dinner.

The Nereide sailed with the dispatches on the morning ; and before
day-light was out of sight. The passage between Bombay and Bushire,
which had been made in thirty-four days, was now retraced in twelve.

CHAP. II.

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

HISTORY OF BUSHIRE — SHEIK NASR — THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE,
THE CHIEF EXECUTIONER DISPATCHED FROM SHIRAZ AGAINST
THE SHEIK ABDULLAH RESOUL; VISITS THE ENVOY*. VISIT RE-
TURNED DIFFICULTIES OF THE SHEIK — HIS SEIZURE CON-
STERNATION OF THE TOWN PRECAUTIONS OF THE ENVOY

— EXPLANATION OF THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE— SUCCESSOR OF
THE SHEIK, MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN ASSUMPTION OF THE GO-
VERNMENT BY THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE MAHOMMED JAFFER

APPOINTED PROVISIONALLY ; DISGRACED ; RESTORED — RECEIVES
A KALAAT — CEREMONY — FATE OF THE LATE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

X HE history of the Sheik of Bushire, who had received us on our
landing, added the principal interest to our subsequent residence in his
country. Our stay was marked by the subversion of his power and of
the Arab rule ; and the journal of every day naturally contained ample
accounts of the progress of an event, which was locally so prominent
and important. The travellers of the last century, who mentioned his
predecessors, may possibly direct some little curiosity to the fortunes of
their descendant ; but without any previous interest in the persons, the
tide of the present day may excite attention as a practical illustration of
the principles of an eastern government.

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

The coast of the gulph was lined for ages with the petty sovereignties
of Arab Sheiks,* who, while they occupied the shores of Persia, yielded
a very uncertain obedience to the monarch of the interior. The degrees
indeed of service paid were probably at all times measured more by the
character and relative force of the different parties, than by any original
stipulations. Nadir and Kerim Khan in vain endeavoured to
reduce these Arab chiefs to more complete obedience : but in many
districts their authority was scarcely acknowledged, and except in
partial remissions, still more seldom felt. Among these chiefs, Sheik
Nasr, of Bushire, long retained a real independance. The Dashtistan,
the low country under the hills, was his province ; and in all the turbu-
lence of his age, this territory and more immediately the country round
Bushire, was still the place of security. In one instance indeed, memo-
rable in the latter history of Persia,-f the resources of Bushire supported
the sinking fortunes of the last dynasty. Lootf Ali Khan, after the
murder of his father Jaffier Khan, king of Persia, fled for refuge to
Sheik Nasr. The Sheik, in memory of his ancient attachment to
Jaffier Khan, received the prince with the warmest hospitality, and
gathering the Arab tribes under his controul, resolved to lead them in
the cause which was thus trusted to his honour. The prince in the
mean time prepared, by letters, his friends at Shiraz to second their
operations ; and the measures were continued with secrecy and success,
when, in the words of the Persian historian,;]: " The boat of Sheik Nasr

* Niebuhr, who allots a separate chapter to these Arab powers (" etats independans
" aux environs du Golfe Persique") attracts our attention to their fate principally by the
remark, " En un mot, le gouvernement et les moeurs de ces Arabes ressemblent beaucoup
a ceux des anciens Grecs." But he adds, " mais ils manquent d'historiens pour decrire
" leurs guerres et pour celebrer leurs heros : voila pourquoi ils ne sont pas connus hors de
" leur pays." Description de l'Arabie, p. 270.

+ The event is related by Olivier. Voyage, torn. vi. p. 215.

$ Extract from a translation of the History of the Zund Family, from the death of
Kerim Khan to the accession of Aga Mahomed Khan Kadjar by Ali Reza Ibn
Abdul Kerim of Shiraz.

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

" Khan's existence from the beating waves of the sea of life, had
" received considerable injury ; and the bark of his age, from the ir-
" resistible tempest of death was overwhelmed in the sea of mortality/'
In his last moments the Sheik committed to his son the duty which
he was no longer permitted to execute himself. The son fulfilled his
father's charge with faithfulness : in two or three months he had assem-
bled a large force of Arab tribes*, and advanced with them towards
Shiraz : when a conspiracy in the camp of their enemy enabled them
in the first instance to succeed without a battle, and eventually to re-
instate on his throne the Prince who was confided to them. The story
marks the character of the two nations more fully, if the history of
Lootf Ali Khan, before his flight to Bushire, be recollected. Al-
though his father had reigned in Persia for a long time (compared with
the usurpations which preceded,) although himself had long accus-
tomed the people to serve and triumph with him, yet in the first mo-
ment of distress (the arrival of the intelligence of his father's slaughter,
and of the orders of the conspirators to seize him), even in his own
camp he was left unsupported by all. Five, indeed, fled with him in
the night to Bushire ; but in the morning the whole camp had dispersed
without an effort; and all had submitted to the usurpers. The contrast
now begins : the Prince threw himself on the protection of the Arabs,
the vassals or allies of his father ; he was welcomed with the most warm
fidelity, supported by their honour, and restored by their valour
to his throne.

The Sheik of Bushire, who in his dying charge had bequeathed this
cause to his successor, is still remembered in his general conduct with
reverence. Whenever his little domain was threatened either by the
Government of Persia, or by a neighbouring chief, Sheik Nasr flew
to arms. According to the traditional accounts of the country, his

* " Consisting of the Arab tribes of Dumoag, Beenee Hajir, Hi/at Daaod, and
" others."

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

summons to his followers in these emergencies was equally characteristic
and effectual. He mounted two large braziers of Pillau on a camel,
and sent it to parade round the country. The rough pace of the
animal put the ladles in motion, so that they struck the sides of the
vessels at marked intervals, and produced a most sonorous clang. As
it traversed the Dashtistan, it collected the mob of every district ; every
one had tasted the Arab hospitality of the Sheik, and every one remem-
bered the appeal, and crowded round the ancient standard of their
chief, till his camel returned to him surrounded by a force sufficient to
repel the threatened encroachments. In every new emergency the
camel was again sent forth, and all was again quiet.

The territory, therefore, of Bushire, and the neighbouring district,
remained under the rule of the Arabs, unviolated by the successive
Princes, who have conquered and retained so large a portion of the
rest of Persia. But Abdullah Resoul, the grandson of Sheik Nasr,
inherited the office only of his predecessor, and possessed no qualities
which could command the affections and the services of his people ;
and though at the time of our landing the government was vested in
him as the descendant of the ancient possessors, it was obviously im-
probable that Bushire, which had now become the principal port of
Persia, would be suffered to remain long under the administration of a
young Arab, of sluggish, dissolute, and unwarlike habits.

In the evening of the 16th Oct. (the day after our landing), the Sheik
of Bushire, escorted by several of the principal men of the town, paid
a visit to the Envoy. They had not sat long, when a man came in and
whispered something in the ear of one of the visitants, which caused
the Sheik to arise, take a hasty leave, and gallop at full speed into the
town. The Government of Shiraz had sent a body of men to seize
him. He had just time to reach Bushire before the party of Shiraz
horsemen could overtake him. He immediately mustered all his little
force, planted a guard on the walls, and himself kept constant watch at
the gates. He had indeed anticipated the probable designs of the
Court of Shiraz ; and, though now apparently resolved on the last

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

resistance, he had already taken the precaution of shipping most
of his property on his own vessels, and with them meditated to
retire to Bussora.

The commander of the Shiraz horsemen, to whom the commission
was intrusted, was Mahomed Khan, the Nasakchee Bashee, an office
not ill understood by that of chief executioner *. He is always em-
ployed, at least, in seizing state prisoners, though his personal character
is rather opposite to the duties of his situation ; for to the facetiousness
of his temper, according to the report of his countrymen, he owes the
favour of the Prince of Shiraz, and through that favour, his office ;
and, as a second consequence, the monopoly of tobacco -f*. In the dis-
charge of his functions the Nasakchee Bashee is generally supposed to
realize in every commission a considerable sum, besides the maintenance
of himself and his followers at the expence of the individuals against
whom he may successively be sent. While he waited the accomplish-
ment of his present attempt, he remained encamped at a short distance
from the town. About twelve o'clock on the 18th, he made a visit of
ceremony to the Envoy. He was attended by eighteen men, himself
alone mounted on a horse; on his arrival he seated himself on a couch
next to Sir Harford Jones, and his men extended themselves in two

* Hanway limits the functions; " the officer who makes seizures," vol. ii. p. 372: see
also Abdul Kurkeem, p. 14. Both authorities connect rank and importance to the situa-
tion. In the East, indeed, the duties even of an executioner appear to have been held in very
different estimation from that which is attached to them in Europe. " Les Bourreaux en
Georgie," says Toukneiokt, " sont fort riches, et les gens de qualite y exercent cette
" charge ; bien loin qu'elle soit reputee infame, comme dans tout le reste du monde, c'est
" un titre glorieux en ce pays-la pour les families. On s'y vante d'avoir eu plusieurs
" bourreaux parmi ses ancestres, et ils se fondent sur le principe qu'il n'y a rien de si
u beau que d'executer la justice, sans laquelle on ne scauroit vivre en seurete. Voila
« une maxime bien digne des Georgiens." Tom. II. 31 1. " Arigch, the Captain of the
King's Guard," (of Babylon, Dan. II. 14.) is yet stiled by the Chaldee in the margin,
" Chief of the Executioners or Slaughter-men."

+ " Jooyum is the district where the Tobacco grows, and it is understood that the trade
" there is managed by its proprietor dextrously and profitably."

D 2

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

rows to the right and left before him. The conversation consisted of
mutual compliments about health, the hopes of continued amity be-
tween Persia and England, and the never failing topic the weather.
The whole party wore the black sheep-skin cap (the dress of every rank
of Persians), and almost all had pistols in their girdles ; some had
muskets, and all, except the Khan's own body servants, had swords.
Most of them also wore the green and high-heeled slippers of ceremony,
and every man had a full black beard. On the day of this visit, the
Sheik, as a douceur perhaps to engage the Envoy's interference in
his cause, sent him a present of two horses.

On the 20th. I went on the part of the Envoy to return the visit of
the Nasakchee Bashee. He was encamped among some date trees ;
and living in the remains of a house which was all in ruins, but which
lie had screened up with mats to keep off the sun and wind. A clean
mat was spread on the floor, carpets were arranged all around, and his
bed and cushions were rolled up in one corner : over the carpet, on
which he sate himself, was a covering of light blue chintz. When we
were within a hundred yards, we saw him walking about ; but as soon
as he perceived our approach, he seated himself in the place of honour,
and did not pay us the compliment of rising when we entered. I made
him a civil speech in Turkish, and he in return asked after the Envoy's
health. He seemed, indeed, much pleased with the epithet of Effendi,
which I used frequently in addressing him, but which, as I afterwards
learned, is never applied in Persia to any but very great men. His
vanity was accordingly much flattered ; and he exclaimed to his atten-
dants, that I was " Khoob Joaani" a fine fellow. When we had ex-
hausted all our compliments, we took our leave.

The mission on which he was dispatched to Bushire originated in the
following circumstances. Some years ago, the Sheik had been required
by the Governor of Farsistan to furnish a certain sum of money. He
pleaded poverty : he was ordered to borrow ; and to obviate every diffi-
culty, he was told that a particular person would advance the money, at
an interest indeed prescribed by the same authority which dictated
the amount of the capital. The Nasakchee Bashee was now sent to en-

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

force the immediate repayment of the capital and interest, which toge-
ther had swelled to twenty-eight thousand tomauns, a sum nearly equal
to the same number of pounds sterling. To save his authority, and
perhaps his head, the Sheik endeavoured to accommodate the present
difficulty by offering to pay down five thousand tomauns, and to secure
the rest by instalments. This, however, was refused ; and the unfortu-
nate Sheik accordingly gave immediate and public notice of the sale of
his effects, his horses, mules, and asses ; and in the course of a few
days raised fifty thousand piastres.

Still the hope of a less rigorous arrangement was not entirely ex-
cluded : the Sheik, attended by the principal men of the town, and with
a strong guard (so stationed that the signal of a moment could bring
them to his assistance) visited the Khan. The Khan indeed had sworn
that he would not molest the Sheik " at present f though, when asked
to extend the oath to every visit or opportunity, he replied that he would
not answer for the directions which he might receive from his govern-
ment. Two days after the visit, we observed a party of forty horsemen
arrive at the Khan's encampment, who probably bore the last orders of
the Court.

On the 25th of Oct. the Envoy received an intimation of a visit,
jointly from the Sheik and the Nasackchee Bashee ; but he was so much
occupied, that at the time he could not accept it. In a few minutes
after we heard a great commotion among the servants, and an outcry
that the Sheik was seized. By the assistance, indeed, of our glasses we
perceived the unfortunate man, with his arms pinioned, surrounded by
about twenty horsemen, and dragged away at full speed towards the
Shiraz road. It appeared, that trusting in this conditional oath of the
Khan, the Sheik had accepted his invitation to visit with him the
Envoy, and had gone forth from the town escorted by five men only.
On his way to the Envoy, he called for the Khan ; and when they were
both mounted, the Khan cried out to his men to seize, disarm, and
carry off their prisoner.

The consternation of the town was immediate and general, Mr.

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

Bruce, the Assistant Resident, was sent by the Envoy to learn the parti-
culars of its situation : he found the gates shut, and the towers manned,
but he gained admittance through the wicket, and saw all the misery
and confusion of the crisis. The Sheik's wives and servants were em-
barking in great haste on board one of his ships; his Vizir also, Hajee
Suliman, was hastening his own preparations to escape. The shops
were shut, the streets were crowded with men transporting their house-
holds to the sea shore, and their wives and daughters were beating their
breasts and crying in loud lamentation. Nor was there a shew of re-
sistance, except on the walls ; or a thought of defence : the only hope
and the only thought of every man was the preservation of his little
fortunes and the honour of his women. The same alarm prevailed in
the country ; all the poor date-hut villagers flocked for protection into
the Factory, and trusted to its walls the security of their families and
their scanty wealth. Women and children, their asses and their poultry,
were all indiscriminately hurried into the enclosure ; and before the
evening we saw around us no common scenes of misery and
terror.

The Assistant Resident, who had examined this state of things in the
town, was sent, on his return, by the Envoy to the Khan, to represent
the alarm of the place ; and to add, that the Envoy expected that no
molestation should be offered to any of the persons belonging to his
mission. The Khan was extremely civil, and treated him as usual with
coffee and three kaleoans. He informed him on the subject of his com-
mission ; that he had orders from his court to seize the Sheik, his
cousin, and his Vizir: and then read to him the fir man. The firman,
in the first place, ordained the act of seizure; and then ordained, that
not the smallest molestation should be given to the English, that every
possible respect and attention should be shewn to them, and strongly
denounced vengeance on any offender ; and lastly ordained, that no in-
habitant, either of the town or of the villages, should receive the least
harm. In his own name, he assured the Assistant Resident, that he was
determined to put the firman in its full force ; and turning to his fol-

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

lowers and guards, cried out, "Woe be to that man who shall be found
" guilty of giving the smallest offence to any Englishman, or to any of
" his servants, or to any thing that belongs to him/' He added, indeed,
that the present fate of the Sheik was the punishment of his ungracious
behaviour to the English ;* and swore, that, for his own part, nothing
was so strongly the object of his mind, as the good will of our
nation. The Khan further stated, that he had intended, in the pro-
posed visit of the morning in conjunction with the Sheik, first to have
read the firman to the Elchee, (the Embassador), and then to have
executed it on the Sheik; but the Sheik had tempted him by an op-
portunity so resistless, that he could not pay the full compliment to
the Envoy of delaying the seizure till the communication had been
made.

Mahomed Nebee Khan, who is known to the English as the
Persian Embassador at Calcutta, had procured the succession to the
Government of Bushire, at the price, it was said, of forty thousand
tomauns -\.

At this moment the Vizir Hajee Suliman was seized on the point
of embarkation. The Khan had declared that he would not spare
Bushire unless the Vizir was delivered to him. The people, therefore,
of his own town intercepted his flight, and surrendered him to the
Khan. But the cousin of the Sheik, whose fate was threatened in the

* «

The Sheik, indeed, had given cause of complaint to Brigadier- General Malcolm
before the arrival of His Majesty's Mission."

i " He was originally a Moonshee, who got his bread by transcribing books and writing
" letters for money. He taught Sir Harpobd Jones, when a young man at Bussora, to
w read and write Arabic and Persian. He afterwards became a merchant, selling small artr-
" cles in the Bazar at Bushire, and being fortunate in his early trade, extended his specu-
w lations still more largely and successfully : till, when an embassy to Calcutta was projected
u by the King of Persia, he was enabled to appear (according to the report off his country -
* men) as the highest bidder for the office, and was consequently invested with it. Having
enriched himself enormously by his mission, he has yet never failed to complain before
" the King, of the evil stars which, by leading him to accept such a situation, had reduced
H him to beggary."

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

same proscription, escaped. There, as in Turkey, and probably in all
despotic countries, the guilt, or rather the disgrace, of an individual,
entails equal punishment on all his family and adherents.

On the following morning, Mahomed Khan, the Nasakchee Bashee,
whose mission had produced these changes, entered Bushire, and
assumed the administration of the government. The town was so far
tranquillized, indeed, that the Bazars were re-opened. The proclama-
tions which the Khan had issued, pledging security and peace to the
inhabitants, had recalled them to their houses ; and the example of
severe punishment, which he inflicted on one of his own men for stealing
the turban of a Jew, operated still more powerfully than his assurances.
In the course of the morning we rode to the gates of the town : there
was here a large assembly of armed men, for little other purpose indeed
than to hear the news and the lies of the day : for a picture, however,
the mob was excellent ; nothing can be marked more strongly in cha-
racter, than the hard and parched-up features of the inhabitants of this
part of Persia. Though the first consternation had thus subsided, the
people had not resumed their daily occupations. In the course of our
ride we did not meet a single woman carrying water, or a single ass car-
rying wood ; for the circumstances which had now happened were un-
paralleled in the memory of the oldest inhabitant, and excited the
strongest emotion throughout the country.

In appearance, indeed, the place was already tranquil ; but the re-
gulations which the Khan enforced, were too little accommodated to the
previous habits of the people to reconcile them to his administration.
Some of the most respectable merchants prepared to emigrate, and all
beheld with terror the officers of police displaying in the Bazars the
preparations for the bastinado, (the justice of Persia), with which they
contrasted very favourably the lenient rule of their Arab Chief. In the
progress of his government, the Khan still continued to exasperate the
principal inhabitants by extorting donations of their goods. When,
indeed, Mahomed Jaffer, the brother of the expected Governor, re-
ceived in his turn such a demand, he not only returned a direct denial,

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

but wrote to the townsmen to arm in revenge, and defend themselves
against such requisitions.

In a few days the same Mahomed Jaffer, in obedience to new
orders was proclaimed by the Khan, Governor pro tempore till the
arrival of his brother; and was invested in this dignity by the girding of
a sword on his thigh, an honour which he accepted with a reluctance
perhaps not wholly feigned. When he was complimented on the occa-
sion, he replied, " You see to what I am come at last ; all would not
" do : I was obliged to put on this sword." But the moment that he
assumed the government, he followed in his turn all the rigours
of his predecessor, and bastinadoed his new subjects without com-
miseration.

His reign, however, was short : on the 7th of November he was
seized by the Khan, (the Nasakchee Bashee), thrown into prison, and
fastened to the wall by a chain, said to have been sent expressly from
Shiraz for his neck, but in reality intended for that of Hajee Su li-
ma x, the late Vizir of Bush ire. The cause of his disgrace was his sup-
posed instigation of the flight of the Vizir, who had contrived to escape
by sea ; and this punishment was to be enforced unless he delivered up
the fugitive, or paid twenty thousand tomauns. As the Vice-Governor
was unable or unwilling to conform to either requisition, he remained
in prison. At length, however, he resolved on attempting the recapture
of the Vizir; and would have undertaken the voyage, if the security,
which he offered for his own return, had been deemed sufficient by the
Nasakchee Bashee.

In the mean time his release was prepared on easier and surer terms.
Mahomed Nebee Khan, the appointed Governor of Bushire, though
little friendly to his brother, was yet jealous of the honour of his family,
and felt in his own person the indignity which the late punishment of
the chain had inflicted on Jaffer. He swore, therefore, that he would
not rest till the head of his brother's enemy was cut off; and as the
first act of his influence procured the immediate restoration of his bro-
ther to his former offices. Jaffer was accordingly released from the

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

prison where he was chained by the neck, and again seated in the
administration.

I must not omit as a specimen of Persian character, the mode of
communication which notified this change at Bushire. The Prince's
Messenger that brought the intelligence from Shiraz of the disgrace of
the Nasahchee Bashee, came into the presence of Mahomed Jaffer,
and told him, " Come, now is the time to open your purse-strings ;
" you are now no longer a merchant or in prison ; you are now no
" longer to sell dungaree, (a species of coarse linen); you are a gover-
" nor; come, you must be liberal, I bring you good intelligence: if I
" had been ordered to cut off your head, I would have done it with the
" greatest pleasure ; but now, as I bring you good news, I must have
" some money ." The man that said this was a servant, and the man
that bore it was the new Governor of Bushire.

In a few days Mahomed Jaffer paid us a visit, in appearance
perfectly unconscious of the indignities which he had suffered. But the
habitual despotism which the people are born to witness, familiarises
them so much to every act of violence which may be inflicted on them-
selves or on others, that they view all events with equal indifference,
and go in and out of prison, are bastinadoed, fined, and exposed to
every ignominy, with an apathy which nothing but custom and fatalism
could produce.

On the 4th of Dec. the restored Vice-Governor was invested with a
kalaat, or dress of honour, from the Prince at Shiraz; and his digni-
ties were announced by the discharge of cannon. The form of his in-
vestiture was as follows : — Attended by all the great men, and by all his
guards (the greater part of whom were the shopkeepers of the Bazar
armed for the occasion), the new Governor issued from the town to meet
his vest. As soon as he met it he alighted from his horse, and making
a certain obeisance was presented with it by the person deputed by the
Prince to convey it The whole party then rode to the spot appointed
for the investiture ; thither the kalaat was brought in state on a tray,
surrounded by other trays decked with sweet-meats. The Governor

Xfggg

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

was here assisted to throw off his old clothes, and to put on his new
and distinguishing apparel. The whole present consisted of a pon-
derous brocade coat with a sash, and another vest trimmed with furs,
and valued altogether at one hundred and fifty piastres, though the
receiver would pay for the honour (in presents to the bearer and to the
Prince in return) the sum, perhaps, of a thousand tomauns. When he
was invested, his late clothes were carried away as the perquisite of the
servants. After this, the firman was read, declaring the motives which
had induced the Prince to confer so marked an honour on Ac a Ma-
homed Jaffer, and then every one present complimented him on
the occasion, with a " Moobarek basked, Good fortune attend you."
After this the company smoked, drank coffee, and eat sweet cakes ;
and then mounting their horses escorted the Governor into his town.
The Governor, in his glittering but uneasy garb, re-entered Bushire,
amid the noise of cannon and the bustle of a gaping multitude ; and
the ceremony closed.

These honours were conferred on Aga Mahomed Jaffer, as a
compensation for his late indignities, probably through the influence of
his brother ; but his brother had a less questionable merit, than that of
thus revenging the wrongs of his own family : for to his influence his
deposed predecessor owed his life. When the unhappy Sheik of
Bushire was dragged to Shiraz, and hurried into the presence of the
Prince, all his crimes real or fictitious were immediately accumulated in
his face. Of every vice in the catalogue of enormity he was pronounced
guilty, till the passions of the Prince were so exasperated, that he or-
dered his victim to be decapitated on the spot. Mahomed Nebee
Khan then threw himself at the Prince's feet, and entreated that the
life of the wretch might be spared. The Prince was sufficiently ap-
peased to grant the supplication, but ordered the Sheik to be blinded.
Again, a second time, his intercessor threw himself at the Prince's feet,
and saved the prisoner's eyes. The Prince contented himself with
ordering the Sheik into confinement.

The particular interest which these changes might have excited in the

e 2

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

people, is swallowed up by the consideration, that their new masters in
every change are Persians, and that the rule of Arabs is over. A feeling
which naturally did not conciliate the Arab community to any successor
of their Sheik. The general impression was not ill-expressed by an old
Arab, whom we found fishing along the shore. " What is our Gover-
" nor ? A few days ago he was a merchant in the Bazar ; then he was
" our Governor : yesterday he was chained by the neck in prison ; to-
" day he is our Governor again ; what respect can we pay him ?
" The Governor that is to be, was a few years ago a poor scribe ; and
" what is worse he is a Persian. It is clear that we Arabs shall now go
" to the wall, and the Persians will flourish."

CHAP. III.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

CORRESPONDENCE WITH THE PERSIAN GOVERNMENT! INTRO-
DUCTION OF THE EUROPEAN DISCIPLINE AT SHIRAZ — MILI-
TARY PREPARATIONS — PERSIAN LETTER — (DERVEISHEs) — CON-
DUCT OF THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE — PRESENT TO THE ENVOY

FROM THE COURT — MEHMANDAR ARRIVAL OF AN OFFICER

FROM SHIRAZ DESCRIPTION OF HIS PARTY — HIS VISIT RE-
TURNED CEREMONIES OF A VISIT — FEAST OF THE BAIRAM —

ACCOUNT OF THE CAPTURE AND RECAPTURE OF THE SYLPH
— DEATH OF MR. COARE.

J. HE negociation was begun at Bushire. On the day after our land-
ing the Envoy despatched his letters to Jaffer Ali Khan, the acting
English agent at Shiraz ; and through him to the Prince Hossein Ali
Mirza, Governor of Farsistan ; to the Prince's Minister, Nasr
Oalah Khan; and to the Prime Minister at Teheran, Mirza Shef-
feea. These letters all contained the simple statement, that the writer
had arrived as Envoy Extraordinary from the King of Great Britain to
the King of Persia, in order to confirm and augment the amity which
had so long existed between the two countries.

On the 19th of Oct. we received despatches from Jaffer Ali
Khan at Shiraz; which, among the more immediate topics of the

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

correspondence, contained naturally full accounts of the progress of the
campaign with the Russians, (the most important object in the existing
politics of Persia), and the general sensations which it had excited at
Teheran. These details retain of course little interest; it is enough to
add, rather as a sketch of national character, that the King, in conse-
quence of his reverses, had distributed alms to the poor, had ordered
prayers to be said in the mosques, and the denunciations of vengeance
on all unbelievers to be read from the Koran. The military preparations
also were hastened at Shiraz (in some measure for a different object);
and the Russian prisoners there were ordered to drill the Persian troops,
who had been raised and equipped after a Russian manner. The ac-
count of this new corps was continued in other letters (which, on the
23d, we received in two days and a half from Shiraz). The Prince
was instructed to form a body of able young men, to shave them if
they had already beards, and to dress them in the Russian uniform.
There was at this time at Shiraz, another body also of seven hundred
hardy and active men, (of the Bolouk or P erg an ah of Aw in Mazan-
deran), who were in the same manner to be subjected to the discipline
of the Russian drill, to lose their beards, to substitute the firelock for
the matchlock gun, (which they had been accustomed to use), and to
assume the whole dress of the Russian soldiery. Mahomed Zeky
Khan and Sheik Root a Khan were appointed their commanders.
The Jezaerchi also, the men who use blunderbusses, were to wear the
new Russian dress. The French at this time were very anxious to pro-
ceed to Shiraz, to drill the new-raised corps ; but as the King prevented
them in a former instance from sending a Resident to Bnshire lest they
should have found that the English factory was still in Persia, he now
equally prevented their advancing to Shiraz, lest the English in their
turn should discover the arrival of their competitors. New gun-car-
riages after the Russian form were ordered (though those before made
after the same pattern broke to pieces at the first fire), and five thousand
new firelocks ; but as the Prince found great difficulty in procuring the
execution of a former order of two thousand only, he had in this in-
stance sent into Laridan for three thousand matchlock guns, and into

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 31

other provinces for the remainder, to convert them at Skiraz into fire-
locks, by affixing to the original barrel the new lock. Provisions also,
of all sorts, were collecting into magazines at Shiraz. These prepara*
tions were hastened by the Prince himself from personal motives. His
dexterity in hitting a mark with a gun at full gallop, and in cutting
asunder an ass with one blow of his sword had been so much exagge-
rated, that the King became desirous of witnessing these exploits, and
would have sent for his son to court, if the apprehensions at this time of
General Malcolm's return from India with an army had not furnished
a seasonable necessity for the Prince's presence in his own provinces ;
and he prepared himself therefore, with great zeal, to inarch to Bender-
Abassy, to await there the arrival of the English in the Persian Gulph.

As a specimen of Persian wit, as well as in the relation of a Persian's
proficiency in English, I extract literally, from Jaffer Ali/s letter, the
following account of the Prince of Shiraz : — " As he is a great quiz
" and flatterer, he flattered me much, and I made an equal return to
" him. Owing to the immense dust that blown all the while upon the
• road, my face and beard covered with dust, and appearing myself to
" be white, the Prince therefore sayed to me, that my black beard be-
" came with grey hairs in his service ; I returned that whoever serves
" Khadmnte Booznrk Whan (His Highness) becomes white-faced for
" eternity, as the common proverb among the Persians, that when a man
" serves his master with zeal, he says to his servant * roo sefeed, white
" face/ and on the contrary they say ' roo seeah, black face:'" two
very common expressions in the country, denoting severally honour and
disgrace.*

It is not an unfair criterion of the new impulse which the Court of

* When Amurath I. instituted the Janizaries, a celebrated Dervi-h pronounced this
blessing over the new corps : " Let them be called Janizaries ( Yengi Cherts, or new
* soldiers) maj their countenance be ever bright ! their hand victorious ! their sword
K keen ! may their spears always hang over the heads of their enemies ! and wheresoever
" they go, may they return with a white face." Gibbon's note illustrates the text by the
Roman phrase, Hie nigerest, hunc tu, Romane, caveto. Vol. VI. p. 320, 4to.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

Persia had received, to add, that by second orders from Teheran, as they
were reported to us, the Princes of the districts were required to adopt
in their own persons the Russian uniform. The Prince of Tabriz, Abbas
Mirza, had already conformed to the costume; and the Prince at
Shiraz, with a hundred of his immediate attendants, was preparing to
assume the same garb ; and as we learned on the 10th, by other dis-
patches, already appeared in it. The proposed adoption by Sultan
Selim, of the dress of the Nizam Gedid troops, was the signal of revolt
to his Janizaries, and the direct cause of his dethronement. The na-
tional levity of the Persians counteracts the original rigour of their reli-
gious principles, and disposes them, from the mere love of change, to
admit the encroachments of European manners, which would rouse to
despair and revenge the less volatile character of the Turks, and ani-
mate them in defence of their least usage with all the first enthusiasm of
their faith.*

" * A circumstance, connected with the more permanent superstitions of Persia, occurred
" during the first part of our stay at Bushire, which may be worth mentioning. A
" Derveish settled himself for many days at the door of the Assistant Resident's house,
" and did not quit it till he had extorted from the Envoy a donation often rupees. These
" men wander about from place to place ; and, as their demands are sanctioned by long
" usage, they levy wherever they go, their established dues.* Mr. Bruce told me, that
" on his first arrival in the country, a Derveish came to him and asked the sum of ten
" piastres ; he was refused, but he persisted that he would not depart till he should receive
" it. He accordingly stationed himself at the door, and commenced his conjuring, crying
" ( Hag, Hag, Hag,' unceasingly for days and nights, till he had worked himself up into
u a frenzy, in which his cries became quite horrible. To get rid of such a nuisance, Mr.
" Bruce was glad at last to pay the price which his tormentor originally charged. Mr.
" Manesty, the East India Company's Resident at Bussorah, was attacked more
"formidably, and defended himself with more perseverance, but without better success.
" A Derveish demanded a hundred piastres, and being of course refused, settled himself
" at the door, and remained there two years, when Mr. Manesty was at last forced to
" yield, and paid the full sum required.

* Lord Teicnmouth, in an interesting Paper in the Asiat. Res. IV. p. SS-i-. 4 ), mentions a similar custom (" titling
** Dkcrnu") in a different religion. " Brahmins even in Calcuttn have been known to obtain charity or subsistence from
" the Hindus, by posting themselves before the door of their houses, under a declaration to remain there until their
" solicitations were granted.'' The religious mendicants of India have sometime!, assembled in a body of 5000 men.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

Thougk the conduct of the negociations with Persia had no con-
nexion with the mere change of masters in Bushire, which was effected

" From Mr. Bruce also I learned the following more curious tale. Mr. Hanker
ft Smith since he has been the Resident at Bushire, was told that a Deroeish wished
u to see him : but believing that he was one of those, who make these tours of licensed
" pillage through the country, he desired that the man might be sent away with the custom-
u ary and unavoidable donation of a few piastres. He was informed however, that hig
" visitor was no common Deroeish; that he was in fact the Peish-namaz (the Chief Priest)
" of Busline, and a man of corresponding reputation among his people. The stranger
" was accordingly admitted and received with every civility. In a second visit he asked
u so many questions about Calcutta, Mr. Hastings, and his trial, and other subject*
" which were equally new in the conversation of a Deroeish, that the Resident candidly
" told him, that he believed him to be no Mussulman. The conjecture was well-founded:
" the Peish-Namaz immediately acknowledged that he was a Frenchman of the name of
" Talamash ; that he had served the English government under Mr. Hastings, and
l( having received some disgust, had quitted Calcutta ; and since that time had done
" nothing but travel. He had been all over India, thence to Cashmire, and had resided
u a long time at Cabul in the court of Zemaun Shah; and had traversed the greater
" part of Persia, in every place imposing himself upon the people as the devoutest of the
" true believers. He was a very intelligent man, and had particularly made himself
" master of all the secrets of the Afghan politics, and had acquired a possession of the
" languages so complete and correct, that the finest native ear could detect no foreign
" accent. Probably no European ever saw so much of Asia, or saw it to such advantage.
" From Bushire he went to Bahrein, where also he was made the Peish-Namaz. From
" Bahrein he proceeded to Surat; where his varied and accurate knowledge of the man-
" ners, customs, and languages of all the different nations and classes in the mixed popu-
" lation of that city, divided, according to Mr. Bruce, the opinions of the people; and
" made the Arabs claim him as an original Arab ; the Persians, as a Persian ; and the
" Mussulmans of Hindoostan as equally their own. From this place M. Talamash addres-
" sed the English government of India, and conveyed to them more particularly his know-
" ledge of the views of the Afghan court : but his communications did not receive the
" attention which he expected, and being left without the hope of employment again in
"India, he repaired to the Mauritius. There he associated with a band of adventurers
" like himself, fitted out a small vessel as a privateer, and went into the Red Sea. But
" here he fell in with the Leopard, Admiral Blanket ; and thinking her an Indiafl^ship,
" made an attempt to board her, and was of course taken. He was then sent to Bombay,
u and thence got once more to the Mauritius, from which time nothing more has been
H heard of him.

34 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

during our residence on the spot, and there was, therefore, little direct
political intercourse between the Envoy and the Nasakchee Bash-ee, (the
Chief Executioner), who superintended those changes : yet as that
officer was the ostensible representative of the Government of Shiraz,
some communications naturally took place. Before the assumption of
the administration of Bushire, (while the Khans object was yet unat-
tained), there was in this intercourse little unsatisfactory ; but in his
later conduct to the mission, the: was something of the insolence of
newly acquired power; he sent word more than once that he was
coming to pay a visit to the Envoy, and as frequently neglected his
engagement. At length he arrived, puffing in great haste; and as soon
as he had seated himself, he pulled off his black sheep-skin cap, and
begun to read a paper which he took from his pocket. The Envoy
asked him, if he were reading a firman from the court, which ordered
him to sit bald-headed. The reproof startled him, and the Envoy con-
tinued ; that, representing as he did his Sovereign, he could not permit
the Khan to do in his presence an act of disrespect which he would not
do before his equals, and much less before his superiors. The Khan
immediately put on his cap, and in his shame waved his hand for his
attendants to withdraw. Sir Harford also ordered his own Persians
to retire, and as the suite were in succession leaving the room the Khan
had some leisure to digest the well-timed rebuke.

The notice which the Envoy had been thus obliged to take of an ap-
parent disrespect in the Khans conduct was the more necessary, as He
had that morning received a letter from the Prince at Shiraz, the form
and terms of which required some explanation ; and on which, there-

" This is a very rare instance of the successful assumption by an European of an Eastern
" character. I have known, in Turkey, several renegado Englishmen, who could never
" sufficiently disguise themselves to be taken for original Mussulmans."

It must be understood, however, that Talamash is believed to have been born at Con-
stantinople, of a French father indeed, yet from his earliest youth to have been unfettered
by a conformity to European usages.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

fore, the Envoy felt himself compelled to remark, that the correspon-
dence during the negociation must be absolutely and in every view in-
dependent ; and He desired the Khan accordingly to intimate this de-
termination to the Prince's Minister. The representation was immedi-
ately successful ; and to the line of conduct thus enforced, both parties
adhered throughout their future communications.

When this matter was adjusted, much friendly conversation followed,
and the affair of the cap and bald-head was laughed over. The Envoy
expressed indeed his wish to render the Khan in his visit as comfort-
able as possible ; but repeated also his resolution to suffer no act of
inattention before servants and strangers. The Khan accordingly
(though as it was the Ramazan he would not smoke) left us seemingly
well pleased.

But in another instance the same want of respect was visible, though
the effect probably of ignorance only. On the 30th Oct. he sent a
present of some fruit and two horses, one for the Envoy and one for
the East India Company's Assistant Resident. Sir Harford imme-
diately returned that destined for himself, to remind the Khan of the
distinction.

On the 8th of Nov. arrived, carried on fourteen mules, the balconah^
the customary present to an Embassador. It consisted of the following
articles : —

50 Lumps of loaf sugar,

35 Small boxes of different kinds of sweetmeats,

1 Mule load of lime-juice, consisting of ninety-six bottles,
23 Bottles of orange and other kinds of sherbet,
22 Bottles of different kinds of preserves, pickles, &c.
4 Mule loads of musk-melons,
1 Ditto of Ispahan quinces,

Half ditto of apples,
1 Ditto of pomegranates,
1 Ditto of wine, thirty-nine bottles.
The whole was accompanied by a letter from Nasr Oalah Khait,

f 2

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

the Minister at Shiraz, replete with compliment and inquiries about
health, and entrusted to the care of Aga Mahomed Ali, one of the
Prince's servants, who received for himself from the Envoy a present of
five hundred piastres. The great men profit by these opportunities of
enriching by such returns any servant to whom in their own persons
they may owe an obligation, and to whom they thus, cheaply to them-
selves, repay it. But the charge of a present is frequently made the
matter of a bargain among the adherents of the donor, and perhaps is
sometimes purchased directly from the great man himself.

On the 13th of Nov. we were informed, that a Mehmandar had been
appointed by the court to escort the Envoy to Teheran. The title of
Mehmandar has been familiarized to an English reader by His Majesty's
appointment of Sir Gore Ouseley to fill the station during the resi-
dence in England of Mirza Abul Hassan, late Envoy Extraordinary
from the Kins; of Persia to the Court of London. But the duties
which, in England, the most active Mehmandar could comprize within
his office are comparatively very limited to those which are indispensably
attached to a similar station in Persia. The Mehmandar is the Super-
intendant and Purveyor assigned to the dignity and ease of foreign
Embassadors ; the relative facility, therefore, with which he can dis-
charge these functions must vary of course with the state of society
in different countries. In England money procures every accommoda-
tion ; but money alone can procure it now : purveyance, however, in
its feudal sense, unfortunately for the people, still exists in its full
force in Persia; and the Mehmandar, under the commission of his Sove-
reign, is entitled to demand from the provinces through which he passes
every article in every quantity which he may deem expedient for his
mission. And as there is no public accommodation on the road where,
at every hour as in England, these supplies may be procured, they are
extorted from the private stores of the villagers. Besides every requi-
site of provision and conveyance, the firman of the Mehmandar some-
times includes even specie among the articles thus necessary in the
passage. It is not, therefore, wonderful, that the officer entrusted with

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 37

this power, though generally a man of high rank, is generally also un-
derstood to purchase the nomination at very large prices. The propor-
tion of the purchase is the proportion of course of the demands on the
country : the villager groans under the oppression, but in vain shrinks
from it ; every argument of his poverty is answered, if by nothing else,
at least by the bastinado.

The information of the appointment was premature: Mahomed
Hassan Kuan, an officer of rank, had indeed been dispatched from
Shiraz, but he was entrusted with a more private commission to the
Envoy. On the 19th his immediate approach to Bushire was an-
nounced. As, independently of the confidence which by this mission
the Government appeared to repose in him, he possessed high personal
rank, (as one of the Chiefs of the Karagiizlou tribe, one of the most nu-
merous, warlike, and respectable of all under the jurisdiction of Persia,)
the first Minister at Shiraz wrote to the Envoy to desire that He would
send the person next in rank to himself to receive him. The Envoy
accordingly ordered me to proceed on the occasion. I went, accom-
panied by Mr. Bruce and Dr, Jukes, and escorted by Cornet Wii>
lock with ten troopers, and five Chattars. The Chattars are those
running footmen who, in fantastical dresses, generally surround the horse
of a great man ; but the name is applied not only to these attendants of
shew, but to those messengers also who perform their journies on foot,
and perform them with a dispatch almost incredible. When we had
proceeded about a mile we met the stranger. He was thinly at-
tended, having travelled in haste. When we approached, our
little squadron drew up in a line as he passed ; and we ad-
vanced, and made our respective compliments. We then all turned
back together, and brought him into the presence of the Envoy, who
received him sitting on one corner of the sopha, but rose just as he
approached it, We were all dressed with more or less ornament in
honour of our guest ; and during his visit we kept on our hats. The
Nasakchee Basket had already fallen into his train, when we first met
him ; and during the short stay which he now made, the Vice-governor.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

of Bushire, Aga Mahomed Jaffer, came to pay his respects also.
He advanced immediately to the Khan, seized his hand, which he
kissed, whilst the Khan applied his beard and mouth to the other's
face, and kissed his cheek. The manners of our guest himself were
pleasant and modest, and spoke the simplicity of a man bred in camps.
When the Envoy had inquired after his health, the health of the Prince,
of the minister, and successively of other great men, the stranger, after
the interchange of a few compliments, departed to take up his abode with
the Vice-governor. As he entered Bushire, the guns at the gate were
fired, but one of them could not bear the shock, and flew out of the
carriage. For fear therefore of the gates and tower, they did not ven-
ture to discharge the sixty-eight pounder, which was mounted in the
town ; an apprehension not purely imaginary.

The party appeared particularly gloomy : their clothes were of a dark
hue, and their caps and their beards were of the deepest black. Every
one had a musket, a sword, a brace of pistols, and a great variety of
little conveniences, as powder-flasks* cartouche-boxes, hammers, drivers,
&c. so that the aggregate equipment displayed every man a figure
made up for fighting. The Khan was dressed exactly like his fol-
lowers, and was alone distinguished by carrying fewer arms. He
had, indeed, one Yeduk or led horse before him. The trappings of their
horses are very simple, compared to those of the Turks. The head-stall
of the bridle has little bits of gold and silver, or brass fixed to it, with-
out the tassels, chains, half-moons, or beads of a Turkish bridle. Nor
have they the splendid breast-plate, or the bright and massy stirrup of
the Turkish cavalry. Their saddle itself is much more scanty in the
seat, nor is it so much elevated behind. The only finery of a Persian
saddle is a raised pummel either gilt or silvered ; and a saddle-cloth, or
rather an elegant kind of carpetting, trimmed with a deep fringe.

On the next day, the Envoy directed me to return, in his name, the
visit of Mahomed Hassan Khan. He was lodged in the house
which then belonged to the Vice-governor, but which had been the
property of the lateHAjEE Khelil Khan, (the Embassador of Persia,

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

who was unfortunately killed at Bombay.) The room into which we
were introduced was very pleasant, and by far more agreeable than any
thing that I had expected at Bit shire. Two pillars, neatly inlaid with
looking-glasses, supported it on one side, and thus separated it from a
small court, which was crowded with servants. An orange tree stood in
the centre of the court. The walls of the room were of a beautiful
white stucco, resembling plaster of Paris ; and large curtains were sus-
pended around them, to screen in every position the company from the
sun. The Khan was seated in a corner, and having taken off our shoes
at the door, we paid our respects severally, and then settled ourselves
according to our rank. When we were arranged, he went about sepa-
rately to each, and with an inclination of his head, told us we were
welcome, (" Khosh Amedced") The Vice-governor next appeared,
and sat respectfully at a little distance. He was followed by the Gover-
nor of the small neighbouring district of Dasti, a rough looking man,
who exchanged a kiss with the Khan. We had kaleoow, (the water
pipe), then sweet sherbet, then again the kaleoans. Few words passed,
and we did little except look at each other. Two or three Arabs came
in, and were welcomed by the Khan with the " khosh amedeed" as they
seated themselves at the further end of the room. The measurement of
their distances in a visit seems a study of most general application in
Persia ; and the knowledge of compliments is the only knowledge dis-
played in their meetings ; if, indeed, the visits of ceremony, which alone
we witnessed, could be considered a fair specimen of national manners or
the state of society.

When visited by a superior, the Persian rises hastily and meets his
guest nearly at the door of the apartment : on the entrance of an equal,
he just raises himself from his seat, and stands nearly erect ; but to an
inferior he makes the motion only of rising. When a great man is
speaking, the style of respect in Persia is not quite so senile as that in
India. In listening the Indians join their hands together, (as in England
little children are taught to do in prayer,) place them on their breast,
and making inclinations of the body sit mute. A visit is much less

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

luxurious in Persia than in Turkey. Instead of the sophas and the easy
pillows of Turkey, the visitor in Persia is seated on a carpet or mat
without any soft support on either side, or any thing except his hands,
or the accidental assistance of a wall, to relieve the galling posture of
his legs. The misery of that posture in its politest form can scarcely be
understood by description : you are required to sit upon your heels, as
they are tucked up under your hams after the fashion of a camel. To
us, this refinement was impossible ; and we thought that we had attained
much merit in sitting cross-legged as tailors. In the presence of his
superiors a Persian sits upon his heels, but only cross-legged before his
equals, and in any manner whatever before his inferiors. To an Eng-
lish frame and inexperience, the length of time during which the
Persian will thus sit untired on his heels, is most extraordinary ; some-
times for half a day, frequently even sleeping. They never think of
changing their positions, and like other Orientals consider our loco-
motion to be as extraordinary as we can regard their quiescence. When
they see us walking to and fro, sitting down, getting up, and moving
in every direction, often have they fancied that Europeans are tor-
mented by some evil spirit, or that such is our mode of saying our
prayers.

Before the close of our visit, it was settled that the Khan should send
in the course of that evening the letters with which he had been charged
to the Envoy, and that on the morrow he should come to a personal
conference, and open his verbal communications.

The Ramazan was now over: the new moon, which marks the termi-
nation, was seen on the preceding evening just at sun-set, when the ships
at anchor fired their guns on the occasion ; and on the morning of our
visit, the Bairam was announced by the discharge of cannon. A large
concourse of people, headed by the Peish Namaz, went down to the sea-
side to pray, and when they had finished their prayers, more cannon
were discharged. Just before we passed through the gates of the town
in returning from our visit, we rode through a crowd of men, women,
and children, all in their best clothes, who, by merry-making of every

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 41

kind were celebrating the feast. Among their sports, I discovered some-
thing like the round-about of an English fair, except that it appeared
of a much ruder construction. It consisted of two rope-seats suspended,
in the form of a pair of scales, from a large stake fixed in the ground.
In these were crowded full-grown men who, like boys, enjoyed the conti-
nual twirl, in which the conductor of the sport, a poor Arab, was labour-
ing with all his strength to keep the machine.

The feast itself of the Bairam begins of course successively in every
season of the natural year, for in the formation of their civil year the
Persians, like other Mahomedans, adopt lunar months. When it occurs
in summer, the Ramazan, or month of fasting which precedes it, be-
comes extremely severe; every man of every kind of business, the la-
bourer in the midst of the hardest work, is forbidden to take any kind
of nourishment from sun-rise to sun-set, during the longest days of the
year. Their full day is calculated from sun-set to sun-set, but their sub-
division of time varies like that of the Hindoos and Mussulmans of
India, according to the difference of the length of the natural day. In
their calculation of the close of the fast, and the commencement of the
Bairam, they are seldom assisted by almanacks: it frequently happens,
therefore, that the same feast is celebrated two days earlier, or de-
layed two days later in different parts of the country, according to
the state of the atmosphere : as the new moon may be obscured by
clouds in one city or displayed in another by the clearness of the sky.

On the 21st of November Mahomed Hassan Khan Karaguzlou
paid the appointed visit to the Envoy. A part of the body guard was
sent out to meet him, and we received him as before in uniforms and
hats. After the usual ceremonies were over, the Envoy and his guest
retired to an inner apartment; and after a conference, which lasted four
hours, the Khan departed to Bushire with the same escort, to whom on
parting he gave a present of fifty Venetian sequins. The conference
had been satisfactory, as at dinner the Envoy announced to us that we
might now complete all our preparations for a journey to Teheran. Still
with a volatility not unusual in the diplomacy of the East, the Khan

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

two days afterwards refused to sign, in the name of the Persian Govern-
ment, the note of the terms on which they had agreed at their meeting :
and at ten o'clock at night the Vice-Governor, and the two Moomhees,
came to us. After a long debate they departed ; and, to the satisfac-
tion of all parties the business was finally settled the next morning,
when, previous to his return to Shiraz, the Khan paid his farewell visit
to the Envoy.

He returned to Shiraz ; and, as we learned by our next dispatches
from Jaffer Ali, immediately appeared before the Prince, where he
talked for "seven hours without stopping once/' on the Envoy and his
merits. Jaffer Att added, that he himself had dined with the
Prince's Prime Minister, and that they also had talked till two o'clock
in the morning on the same alluring subject. After having both
agreed that, by the progress of the negociation, they had already ren-
dered themselves immortal, they retired to rest, and the next morning,
the Minister, on the appointment of a Mehmandar to the mission,
asked Jaffer Ali for the Moodjdihlook, or customary present, for
which accordingly he received a Cashmirian shawl. In general politics
the dispatches stated, that the Russians had renewed hostilities, though
General Gardanne, the French Embassador in Persia, had sent four
of his officers to the Russian Commander to entreat that he would de-
sist from any further operations ; but the Russian answered, that his
master had ordered him to fight on. The failure of this attempt had
greatly contributed to disgrace the cause of the French ; and the Court
retrenched in consequence their daily allowances.

The Mehmandar, who was announced in these dispatches, was Ma-
homed Zeky Khan, (the chief of the Noory tribe, one of the new
modeled corps) a great favourite at the Court of Teheran, and with the
Prince of Shiraz, and advanced lately by the King to the dignity of
Khan. It was added also, that his appointments were more magni-
ficent than any which had ever before been annexed to the Mehmandar
of an English Envoy ; and, as a further proof of the estimation in which
His Majesty's mission was held, Jaffer Ali stated, that the Prince

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

had prepared for him, as our acting Agent at Shiraz, sl rich dress of
honour, which, however, he had found means to decline from a fear of
the jealousy which it might have excited against him. But the Prince,
resolved on bestowing upon him some distinguishing mark of his favour,
had given him a shawl, which belonged to one of his own head-dresses,
and a young and promising Arab horse,which had been sent as a present
to himself by the Governor of Chabi. So well indeed had Jaffer Ali
deserved the confidence of both the negociating parties, that Sir Har-
ford Jones, now at the close of these preliminary arrangements, sent
him a patent constituting him the Agent for the British affairs at the
Court of Shiraz.

It will be recollected that the Nereide, the Sapphire, and the Sylph,
sailed with the mission from Bombay on the 12th of September. The
Nereide arrived first ; the Sapphire also reached Bushire about sun-set
on the 18th October. The Arab ships too, that we passed off Cape
Verdistan, had come in about noon on the same day, and had continued
firing their guns at distant intervals till the evening : but the Sylph, on
board which were the Persian Secretary and some of the presents, was
yet missing ; nor indeed had we seen her, since the second day after that
on which we had left together the harbour of Bombay. On the 29th
Oct. arrived the Nautilus, H. C. cruizer, which had sailed from the same
port on the 22 d Sept. Though she had neither seen or heard directly
any thing of the Sylph, yet the circumstances of her own passage pre-
pared us to anticipate the worst. The Nautilus had been attacked off
the large Tomb, in the Gulph of Persia, by the Joasmee pirates ; three
only were at first in sight, but on the signal of a gun, a fourth appeared,
and together they bore down, two on the quarters and two on the bows
of the Nautilus ; they were full of men, perhaps six hundred in the
four vessels, all armed with swords and spears, and, as they shouted
their religious invocations, they shook their weapons at the ship. When
the engagement became closer, they maintained a fire of twenty-five
minutes, and one of their shot killed the boatswain of the Nautilus.

Of these pirates an interesting account was published in India by Mr.

r o

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

Loane, who was taken prisoner by them. It is unnecessary, therefore,
to add more on the subject than that their chief resort is at Roselkeim,
on the Arabian coast of the Gulph of Persia : another, but tributary,
chief of the same people resides twenty-five miles from Roselkeim at
Egmaim, S. S.W. of Cape Musseldom, where they possess an extensive
and lucrative pearl fishery. This, with the market which their
plunder finds there, is the principal source of the traffic of the place.
Though it may not be necessary to enter into a detail, which may be
better found in original authorities, it must be very obvious, that the
honour of our flag, as well as the interest of our commerce in the East,
will require the destruction of a fleet of pirates, which, assembling to
the amount or* fifty sail in the harbour of Roselkeim, issue thence to
capture every English as well as native ship, and to spread terror
through the Gulph of Persia.*

On the arrival of the Nautilus, under these circumstances, the Envoy
dispatched a htter to Captain Davis of the Sapphire, requesting him
to proceed to :he entrance or the Gulph, to secure the Sylph, if possible.
On the 6th Nov. a boat arrived from Roselkeim, at the date of the de-
parture of which no such capture had been made; but in three days,
another boat came in, which brought an account that four vessels had
been taken, one of which contained a Nawab. We immediately recog-
nized by this lescription the unfortunate Persian Secretary, the splen-
dour of whose dress had imposed him as a Nabob on the pirates. The
next day a still more circumstantial account of the capture reached us,
which convinced us that the vessel taken was the Sylph ; but the report
added, that a large vessel from Bashire (which we instantly identified
with the Nercide) came in sight during the action, and having sunk one
of the pirates, (of whose crew of three hundred scarcely any escaped),
retook their prize. In the action too, the pirates lost one of their first
chiefs, Sal ben Sal. The loss of one individual, the most insigni-

* See the note on their destruction, at the end.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

ficant, of their tribe is sufficient cause for a declaration of war; but the
destruction of so large a portion of their whole numbers would dispirit
rather than so animate the remainder; and the tribe would probably
agree never again to approach an English ship. The pirates had, in
fact, been so disheartened by their disaster, that when, a few days after-
wards, a single Arab ship (commanded indeed by an Englishman) fell
among them, and, finding herself unable either to fight or to escape,
bore down upon them to try a shew of resistance, they all fled. At
length on the 26th Nov. the Minerva, H. C. cruizer, Captain Hopgood,
arrived, and brought the Persian Secretary, who had been captured in
the Sylph. The Secretary was much connected at Bushire, and his de-
tention had of course excited great uneasiness among his relations, who
had been putting up prayers in the mosques for his safety. His account
of their fate was not uninteresting.

At the time when the pirates were standing the same course with
herself, the Sylph discovered the Nereide bearing down upon her. When
the Nereide came close, she hove-to ; but as the commander of the
Sylph did not send a boat on board of her, she filled her sails and stood
on. When the Nereide had already passed at some distance, the two
dows stood towards the Sylph. The Persian Secretary advised the officer
of the ship not to permit the dows to approach ; but he would not
listen to the suggestion, as he declared they would not touch him. The
dozes, however, did approach so close, that the Sylph had only time to
fire one gun, and to discharge her musquetry at them, before they were
alongside, and poured on board her in great and overwhelming numbers.
It is unnecessary to state all the circumstances. The Persian Secretary
from the concealment to which he had fled, was still able to ascertain
that, as the first act of possession, the Arabs threw water on the ship
to purify it ; that they then proceeded to the deliberate murder of the
men, who were on deck or discoverable ; that they brought them one
by one to the gangway, and in the spirit of barbarous fanaticism cut
their throats as sacrifices; crying out before the slaughter of each
victim, " Ackbar" and when the deed was done, " Allah il Allah."

46 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

In the space of an hour they had thus put to death twenty-two persons ;
and were proceeding with lights to look for more, when they were asto-
nished by a shot through the Sylph from the Nereide. On perceiving
the disaster of the Sylph, Captain Corbett had immediately hauled-
up ; and though far to the windward his shot still reached. The Arabs
immediately took to their dows ; and, elated by the havock of their
success, made for the Nereide. As soon as Captain Corbett per-
ceived that they were bearing down upon him, he ceased firing altoge-
ther. The Persian Secretary told us, that he saw the dows approach so
close to the frigate, that the Arabs were enabled to commence the at-
tack in their usual manner by throwing stones. Still the Nereide
did not fire ; till at length when both dows were fairly alongside, she
opened two tremendous broadsides. The Secretary said he saw one
dow disappear totally, and immediately ; and the other almost as in-
stantaneously : they went down with the crews crying, " Allah, Allah,
" Allah" Nine men only escaped, who had previously made off in a
boat. The Sylph was taken to Muscat, where the Persian Secretary
was put on board the Minerva.*

* " This account is from the mouth of a Persian ; it may therefore not be uninteresting to
" contrast it with the statement in the log-book of the Nereide.

« H. M. S. Nereide, Thursday, 21 Oct. 1808.

" At 9. A. M. saw two dows standing towards us under Arabian colours. 10.30. saw a
a strange sail S. S. E. Employed working up junk, &c. Noon : the above vessel past us,
" which proved to be the Honourable Company's schooner Sylph. P. M. moderate
" breezes and fine. 1.30. observed the dows haul-up and board the schooner; in studding
u sails, and haul'd our wind in chase of them : by this time they had the schooner in tow.
" Tacked occasionally to close. At 4. got within gun-shot and commenced firing. 4.30.
" observed the schooner's tow-rope gone, supposed by our shot ; still keeping a constant
" fire on the dows. 5.30. shot away one of the dow's yards. At 6. ditto, firing whenever
" the guns would bear : observed the schooner make signals of distress, and fire guns.
" The crew immediately deserted the dow when the yard was shot away, and went on
"board the other; continuing firing within musket shot round grape and musketry;
" hailed her repeatedly, but received no answer. At 8. ceased firing ; the dows apparently
" sinking: made sail for the schooner: at 9. hove-to, and sent a boat for the commander

" of the schooner ; he being severely wounded, gave Lieutenant C charge of the

u schooner, but returned with a seapoy severely wounded."

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

We had thus recovered the Persian Secretary ; but the mission soon
suffered the less reparable loss of one of its own members. On the
19th November, the Benares H. C. cruizer (which brought our tents,
some of the body guards, presents, &c. from Bussora) landed at
Bushire Mr. Co a re, the Persian and Latin Translator. He had car-
ried with him from Bussora a fever, which was gradually wasting him
away ; and after lingering out his few remaining days apparently with-
out pain, he died on the last day of the month. He was a young man
of whom all spoke well ; his talents were promising ; and his prospects
in the world were fine. He was laid in the Armenian burying-ground,
without a coffin ; because plank is so dear and scarce at Bushire, that
his remains would have been disturbed for the sake of the wood which
had enclosed them. His corpse was escorted to the grave by the body
guard and the seapoy guard, and followed by the Envoy and the gen-
tlemen of the mission. I read the funeral service over him, amid a
crowd of Persians and Arabs, who were collected to see the ceremony ;
and who seemed to partake the interest of the scene. Nothing excites
a better impression of our character than an appearance of devotion
and religious observance. If, therefore, there were no higher obligation
on every christian, religious observances are indispensable in producing
a national influence. We never omitted to perform divine service on
Sundays ; suffered no one to intrude upon us during our devotions ;
and used every means in our power to impress the natives with a proper
idea of the sanctity of our Sabbath,

CHAP. IV.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

I. PERSIA— ADMINISTRATION OF THE GOVERNMENTS — FARSISTAN
— MEKRAN — BALOUCIIES — COAST OE THE GULPH — ISLANDS OF
THE GULPH — PEARL FISHERY. — II. BUSHIRE : SITUATION — DE-
SCRIPTION TRADE VIEW RUINS OF RESHIRE HALILA —

BUSHIRE ROADS WATER — WEATHER HEALTHINESS — WOMEN

OF BUSHIRE — SUPERSTITIONS. — III. ANIMALS OF THE DASHTIS-
TAN: HORSES— DOG — WHITE FOX — WILD BEASTS — HAWKS — THE
JERBOA.

I. IN historical interest, Persia is perhaps superior to any Asiatic
empire, because more nearly connected with the fortunes of Europe ;
and its natural situation shares the importance ; for its boundaries (de-
fined and fortified by lofty ranges, which are pervious only through
passes of very difficult access,) are prominent and decided objects in the
general geography of Asia. We had hitherto seen only the southern
chain : nothing can be more strongly marked than the abrupt and for-
bidding surface of those mountains, which bind the shore from Cape
Jasques to the deepest recesses of the gulph. The little plain of the
Dashtistan, (that of Bushire) which seems to have encroached upon the
sea, is yet the most extensive portion of even land, which relieves how-
ever momentarily the constant and chilling succession of high and
dreary lands along the coast. But beyond these mountains are fre-

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 49

quently extensive plains, confined by a second range, which likewise
run parallel to the coast. This is the case behind Congoon : and in the
route to Shiraz we found several successive plains, (of great absolute
elevation indeed, but) thus separated from each other by alternate ranges
of higher land. The plain of Merdasht, beyond Shiraz, is the Hollow
Persis of ancient geography. These great inequalities of surface natur-
ally produce a corresponding variety of climates.

The administration of the provinces of Persia is now committed to
the Princes. The jurisdiction of Prince Hossein Ali Mirza,
one of the King's Sons, is very extensive : it comprises, under the
general name of Farsistan, not only the original province of which Shiraz
was the capital (as subsequently it became that of all Persia, and as it
still is of the governments combined under the Prince) but Laristan also,
to the south ; and Bebehan to the north-west ; which severally, as well
as Farsistan, possessed before their particular Beglerbegs.

Of Farsistan, under this its present more extensive signification, the
hot and desert country is called the Germesir, a generic term for a warm
region, which will be recognised under the ancient appellations of
Germania, Kerrnania, or Carmania. The termination of the Persian
dominion in this direction, is an undefined tract between the Germesir
and the Mekran. It was the ancient boast of Persia, that its boundaries
were not a petty stream or an imaginary line, but ranges of impervious
mountains or deserts as impervious. In this quarter there is little pro-
bability that the country will ever become less valuable as a frontier,
by becoming more cultivated and better inhabited. The land is put to
so little use, that no power would greatly care to press the extension of
an authority so unprofitable. Every age has marked the unalterable
barbarism of the soil and of the people. The Balouchistan, or the
country of the Balouches, the most desert region of the coast begins
about Minou, on the west of Cape Jasques. Their country is perhaps
nearly the Mekran of geography. They once owned subjection to
Persia, but they have now resumed the independance of Arabs, and live
in wandering communities under the government of their own Sheiks,

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

of whom two are pre-eminent. They have indeed still some little com-
mercial connexion with Persia, and occasionally a Balouche is to be
seen in Bushire selling his scanty wares, mostly the mats of their own
manufacture. One of their Sheiks lives at Guadel on the coast of
Mekran; but in the interior, according to the account given by a
Balouche to Captain Salter, there is a very potent king, though I
cannot add from the same authority, whether he is of their own extrac-
tion. They live in continual wars with each other ; or let themselves
out to the different small powers in the gulph as soldiers. Many of the
guards of the Sheik of Bushire are Balouches ; and the Seapoys also on
board the Arab ships are of the same tribes.

In religion they are Mahomedans ; and like all those of India, are
Sunnis : but they have few means of preserving the genuineness of any
profession of faith ; and their ignorance has already confounded their
tenets with those of a very different original. The same common bar-
barism has indeed blended the Afghan, the Seik, and the Balouche into
one class : there may be among them some beard or whisker more or less,
some animal or food which they hold unclean above all others, some in-
describable difference of opinion which severs them from their neighbours,
but in savageness they are all identified. Those on the coast still live
almost exclusively on fish, as in the days ofNEAiicHus; though I am
told they no longer build their houses with the bones. The grampus
(possibly, the whale of Arrian) is still numerous on the shores. The
Envoy remembered to have seen at Bushire on a former occasion, a dog
of an immense size, which a Balouche had given to Mr. Galley, the
Resident at that time : the man added, that the mountains towards his
country were all very high. His dog seemed to confirm the assertion,
for he was defended against the cold of his native region, by a coat of
thick and tufted hair.

Though the Balouches scarcely advance within the gulph, yet the
native Persians do not fully occupy their own shores. The coast still
retains a great proportion of Arab families. The Dashtistan, which
extends from Cape Bang to the plain of Bushire, was till lately governed

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 51

by them. The district of Dasti, also along the coast from Bushire to
below Congodn, still remains under their rule : and the Arab Sheik of
Congoon in the adjoining territory, possesses a kind of independance.

At Tauhree, (or Tahrie) a port just below Co?igoo?i, are extensive ruins
and sculptures, with the Persepolitan character. The landmarks for
the entrance of the harbour are two large white spots, on the summit of
a mountain, which the people of the country affirm to have been made
by the hand of man ; and which, on the same traditional authority, are
said to have been formerly covered with glass. The reflection thus pro-
duced by the sun s rays, rendered the object visible to a great distance at
sea, and guided the navigator in safety into the road. Some of the
glass is said to remain at this day. Among the ruins of the city are two
wells pierced to a great depth ; and stabling for a hundred horses exca-
vated from the solid rock : the existence of these remains, I understand,
Mr. B — k of the E. I. Company's service ascertained himself.

At Khar rack, a place still further in the progress down the Gulph,
between Cape Series and Cape Bustion, is a town which was once in
the possession of the Danes ; and it is singular that the people who
claim a Danish blood are still very fair complexioned, and have light
red hair, which may confirm their traditional accounts of their origin.
The same nation had also an establishment in a deep bay near Mussel-
dom ; and the fort exists to this day. On Cape Bustion there is a mine
of copper, which was formerly worked by the Portuguese : they built
also a fort there, which still exists, but the mine is no longer worked,
and indeed is almost forgotten. Some years ago, Mr. Bruce, the
Assistant Resident at Bushire, was a prisoner among the Arabs on this
part of the coast. He was told, that immediately behind the range of
mountains which lines their shore, there was a river that came from
near Shiraz, and run down to Gombroon ; this is, probably, the Bend-
emir, which, according to other accounts, is traced indeed towards Gom-
broon, but there expends itself in the sands. Khoresser is the name of
a small river which falls into the sea nearly under the Asses Ears; and
on the banks of which is situated the town of Tangistoun. At the

'■»

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

mouth of this river is a small island, formed by the sands brought,
down ; which adapts this situation to Aruian's account of Hieratemis.
At the place marked by Dr. Vincent as Podargus there is now no
torrent: but 1 learn from Dr. Jukes and Mr. Bruce, that at Harem,
situated thirty miles inland on the declivity of the mountains to the
eastward, there is a water which finds its way to the sea, and may, per-
haps, accord with the position required.

The islands in the Gulph of Persia retain little of their political cele-
brity. Ormus (ever the most barren, its soil being composed of salt and
sulphur) still displays its arched reservoirs, which afford good watering
places for vessels, and which are said never to dry up. On the island of
Kenn 9 according to the people of the country, is found, after rain, gold
dust in the channels of the torrents. And Bahrein, which is now in
the hands of the Wahabees, is still noted for the fresh springs which issue
from the earth under the sea, and from which the Arabs contrive to
water their ships by placing over the spot a vessel with a syphon at-
tached to it. Captain Skeine, who commanded an Arab ship, told
the gentleman (who communicated the circumstances to me), that he
had himself drawn the water at the depth of one fathom. The same
submarine springs extend along the neighbouring coast of Arabia.
Kharrack, which is now the principal watering place on the north of
the Gulph, and the island, where the pilots for the Bussorah river are
stationed, is perhaps good for few other purposes. The Sheik indeed,
though enjoying profound peace, presented memorials to the Sheik of
Bmhire, representing that his troops and himself were in a state of
starvation. Among the duties entrusted by the Government of Shiraz
to the Nasakchee Bashee, he was instructed to proceed to Kharrack, to
inspect the fortifications, and to report on their capability of defence.

Pearl-Fishery. — There is. perhaps, no place in the world where those
things which are esteemed riches among men, abound more than in
the Persian gulph. Its bottom is studded with pearls, and its coasts
with mines of precious ore. The island of Bahrein, on the Arabian
shore, has been considered the most productive bank of the peari

•:••?:.:■!

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

oysters : but the island of Kharrack now shares the reputation. The
fishery extends along the whole of the Arabian coast, and to a large
proportion of the Persian side of the gulph. Verdistan, Nabon, and
Busheab, on that side, are more particularly mentioned ; but indeed it
is a general rule, that wherever in the gulph there is a shoal, there is also
the pearl oyster.

The fishery, though still in itself as prolific as ever, is not perhaps
carried on with all the activity of former years ; since it declined in
consequence by the transfer of the English market to the banks of the
coast of Ceylon. But the. Persian pearl is never without a demand;
though little of the produce of the. fishery comes direct into Persia.
The trade has now almost entirely centred at Muscat. From Muscat
the greater part of the pearls are exported to Surat; and, as the agents
of the Indian merchants are constantly on the spot, and as the fishers
prefer the certain sale of their merchandize there to a higher but less
regular price in any other market, the pearls may often be bought at a
less price in India, than to an individual they would have been sold in
Arabia. There are two kinds ; the yellow pearl, which is sent to the
Mahratta market ; and the white pearl, which is circulated through
Bussorah and Bagdad into Asia Minor, and thence into the heart of
Europe ; though, indeed, a large proportion of the whole is arrested in
its progress at Constantinople to deck the Sultanas of the Seraglio. The
pearl of Ceylon peels oft'; that of the Gulph is as firm as the rock upon
which it grows; and, though it loses in colour and water 1 per cent an-
nually for fifty years, yet it still loses less than that of Ceylon. It ceases
after fifty years to lose any thing.

About twenty years ago the fishery was farmed out by the different
chiefs along the coast : thus the Sheiks of Bahrein and of El
Katif, having assumed a certain portion of the Pearl Bank, obliged
every speculator to pay them a certain sum for the right of fishing. At
present, however, the trade which still employs a considerable number of
boats is carried on entirely by individuals. There are two modes of spe-
culation: the first, by which the adventurer charters a boat by the month

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

or by the season ; in this boat he sends his agent to superintend the
whole, with a crew of about fifteen men, including generally five or
six divers. The divers commence their work at sun-rise and finish at
sun-set. The oysters, that have been brought up, are successively con-
fided to the superintendant , and when the business of the day is done,
they are opened on a piece of white linen : the agent of course keeping
a very active inspection over every shell. The man who, on opening an
oyster, finds a valuable pearl, immediately puts it into his mouth, by
which they fancy that it gains a finer water ; and, at the end of the
fishery, he is entitled to a present. The whole speculation costs about
one hundred and fifty piastres a month ; the divers getting ten piastres ;
and the rest of the crew in proportion. The second and the safest mode
of adventure is by an agreement between two parties, where one defrays
all the expences of the boat and provisions, &c. and the other conducts
the labours of the fishery. The pearl obtained undergoes a valuation,
according to which it is equally divided : but the speculator is further
entitled by the terms of the partnership to purchase the other half of
the pearl at ten per cent, lower than the market price.

The divers seldom live to a great age. Their bodies break out in
sores, and their eyes become very weak and blood-shot. They can re-
main under water five minutes ; and their dives succeed one another
very rapidly, as by delay the state of their bodies would soon prevent
the renewal of the exertion. They oil the orifice of the ears, and put a
horn over their nose. In general life they are restricted to a certain regi-
men ; and to food composed of dates and other light ingredients.
They can dive from ten to fifteen fathoms, and sometimes even more ;
and their prices increase according to the depth. The largest pearl are
generally found in the deepest water, as the success on the bank of
Kharrack, which lies very low, has demonstrated. From such depths,
and on this bank, the most valuable pearls have been brought up ; the
largest indeed which Sir Harford Jones ever saw, was one that had
been fished up at Kharrack in nineteen fathoms water.

It has been often contested, whether the pearl in the live oyster is as

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

hard as it appears in the market ; or whether it acquires its consistence
by exposure. I was assured by a gentleman (who had been encamped
at Congoon close to the bank ; and who had often bought the oysters
from the boys, as they came out of the water,) that he had opened the
shell immediately, find when the fish was still alive, had found the pearl
already hard and formed. He had frequently also cut the pearl in two,
and ascertained it to be equally hard throughout, in layers like the coats
of an onion. But Sir Harford Jones, who has had much knowledge
of the fishery, informs me, that it is easy by pressing the pearl between
the fingers, when first taken out of the shell, to feel that it has not yet
attained its ultimate consistency. A very short exposure, however, to
the air gives the hardness. The two opinions are easily reconcileable by
supposing, either a misconception in language of the relative term hard,
(by which one authority may mean every thing in the oyster which is
not gelatinous, while the other would confine it more strictly to the full
and perfect consistency of the pearl ;) or by admitting that there may
be an original difference in the character of the two species, the yellow
and the white pearl ; while the identity of the specimen, on which either
observation has been formed, has not been noted.

The fish itself is fine eating ; nor, indeed in this respect is there any
difference between the common and the pearl oyster. The seed pearls,
which are very indifferent, are arranged round the lips of the oyster, as
if they were inlaid by the hand of an artist. The large pearl
is nearly in the centre of the shell, and in the middle of the fish.

In Persia the pearl is employed for less noble ornaments than in
Europe : there it is principally reserved to adorn the kaleoons or water
pipes, the tassels for bridles, some trinkets, the inlaying of looking
glasses and toys, for which indeed the inferior kinds are used ; or, when
devoted more immediately to their persons, it is generally strung as
beads to twist about in the hand, or as a rosary for prayer.

The fishermen always augur a good season of the pearl, when there
have been plentiful rains; and so accurately has experience taught
them, that when corn is very cheap they increase their demands for

56 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

fishing. The connexion is so well ascertained, (at least so fully cre-
dited, not by them only, but by the merchants,) that the prices paid
to the fishermen are, in fact, always raised, when there have been
great rains.

II. Bushire (or more properly Abuschahr, for the former is but the
corruption of an English sailor) is now the principal Port of Persia. It
stands in lat. 28°. 59- in long. 50°. 43. E. of Greenwich. It is situated
on the extremity of a peninsula, which is formed by the sea on one side,
and on the other by an inlet terminating in extensive swamps. At the
narrowest part of this neck of land the seas, in the equinoctial spring
tides, have sometimes met and rendered it an island ; but this has hap-
pened once only during the ten years which preceded our visit, and the
effect then continued but two or three days ; and so visible is the present
encroachment of the land upon the inlet, that the recurrence of such an
overflow will soon be entirely impossible. Every appearance, indeed,
proves, that the whole of the peninsula has been thus gained, from the
sea. The extreme flatness of the general surface, the soil itself, the
water, and the relative position of the whole peninsula to the moun-
tains which rise abruptly from its inland extremities, suggest the suppo-
sition of such an accumulation.

On the southern bank of the inlet is a long range of rocks, which,
though now two or three miles distant, may at one time have been
washed by the sea. In digging for water, the people of the peninsula
have sunk wells to the depth of thirty fathoms ; and before they could
reach the spring they have been obliged to perforate three layers of a
soft stone composed of sand and shells. Generally of the whole soil,
sand is the principal ingredient.

The town itself of Bushire occupies the very point of the peninsula,
and forms a triangle, of which the base on the land side is alone forti-
fied. At unequal distances along the walls, there are twelve towers,
two of which form the town-gate ; they are all chequered at the top by
holes, through which the inhabitants may point their musketry, and
those at the gates have a variety of such contrivances. There is at the

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

the door a large brass Portuguese gun, a sixty-eight pounder, on a very
uncertain carriage ; besides two or three in a much ruder state. It is
said that on some invasion when the place was beset, this gun was fired,
but the concussion was so great and unexpected, that it blew open the
gates, shook down fragments of the towers, and gave the enemy an easy
entrance. The materials of the town (a soft sandy stone, incrustated
with shells) are drawn from the ruins of Reshire, in its neighbour-
hood. Most of the adjacent villages are built of the same stone, the
only species indeed found in the peninsula, and which was already thus
prepared for their use in the remains of Reshire. But such materials are
continually decomposing ; and the dust which falls from them adds to
the already sandy ground-work of their streets, and, when set in motion
by the wind or by a passing caravan, creates an impenetrable cloud.
The streets are from six to eight feet wide, and display on each side
nothing but inhospitable walls. A great man's dwelling (there are nine
in Bushire) is distinguished by a wind chimney. This is a square turret
on the sides of which are perpendicular apertures, and in the interior of
which are crossed divisions, which form different currents of air, and
communicate some comfort to the heated apartments of the house. But
the comfort is not wholly without danger ; as in an earthquake some
years ago the turrets were thrown down to the great damage of the sur-
rounding buildings.

There are supposed to be in the town four hundred houses, besides
several alleys of date-tree-huts on entering the gates, which may add an
equal number to the whole. The number of inhabitants is dispropor-
tionably large, but it is calculated that there are ten thousand persons in
the place. There are four mosques of the Sheyahs, and three of the
Sunnis ; and there are two Hummwns and two Caravanserais; but
there is no public building in Bushire which deserves any more par-
ticular description. The old English factory is a large straggling
building near the sea side ; the left wing is breaking down. The Bazars
are exactly those of a provincial town in Turkey. The shop is a little
platform, raised about two feet above the foot-path ; where the Vender.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

just reserving the little space upon which he squats, displays his wares.
The shops, as in Turkey, are opened in the morning and shut at night,
when the trader returns to his dwelling ; for the shop is but the recep-
tacle for his goods.

On the 2d Nov. a large fleet of boats came into Bushire from the
coast, laden with coarse linen tor turbans, earthen pots, mats, &c. for
which they carry away dates. These boats keep together for fear of
the Joasmee pirates.

To the east of the town there is a small elevation, which happily
destroys the equalities of the buildings, and renders it no uninteresting
subject for a sketch, when enlivened by its concomitants, water and
shipping. Whatever may have been the former state of the immediate
neighbourhood, it is certain that there are now no longer to be found the
gardens and plantations which Nearchus described, or even those
which Captain Simmons delineated. Had Nearchus again described
Bushire and its territory in this day, he would have said, that a
few cotton bushes, here and there date trees, now and then a Konar
tree, with water melons, berinjauts, and cucumbers, are the only verdant
objects which, in any measure, alleviate the glare of its sandy plain.

1 took a sketch of Bushire from a rising spot near a well on a public
road.* A troop of young camel-drivers, who were going merrily along,
soon discovered me ; and long continued to vociferate, with many other
names and jokes, " Frangui, Frangui" the common appellation in the
East of every European.

The new factory is about one mile seven-eights from the town. The
Resident's guard is composed of seapoys, who, by the regulations, should
be changed every five years, but they are permitted to remain till they
become so lax in discipline as scarcely to deserve the name of soldiers.
The guard is mustered at sun-set, when they mostly appear in their shirts
and night-caps and the sentries walk about without their muskets.

In a few days after our landing we rode to the ruins of Beshire. The

* See Plate VI.

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

more immediate remains occupy an inconsiderable part of the site of
the old city, and indeed consist rather of the fortress than of the general
mass of buildings. The place is surrounded by villages built of the
materials, and (as other fragments about them still attest) upon the site
also of the original town. One of these villages is called Imaum Zade,
and is exempt from taxes, because its inhabitants claim all to be de-
scended from Mahomed.

The fortress itself was built by the Portuguese, though the people
around are jealous of the acknowledgment, and substitute as its founder
their own Shah Abbas. On a hasty calculation it must have been a
square of two hundred yards. The reservoirs for water are still to be
seen ; but a lad, whom we met in the enclosure, told us that he and his
companions were at work in destroying the Hummums. Twenty-five
years ago the Envoy saw it in many parts entire, with some of the
houses still standing. It is now a heap of dirt and rubbish. The line
of the fort, indeed, is traced by the ditch, which is excavated from the
rock ; and tbie gateways also are discoverable, and some little masonry
remains tu fiiark their strength. There are some flat and oblong stones
on the outside of the fort, which we conceived to have been placed over
Portuguese tombs. There are, however, some curious characters upon
them, which Sir Harford Jones, who recollects them when they were
more legible, conceives to be between the old Citfick and the Nekshi.

In another excursion we advanced to Halila, about nine miles from
the town, and on the south of the peninsula of Bushire. Here, indeed,
there is a projection of the land, where it is still possible for very high
tides to rise above the surface. The ground is very much broken into
caverns and deep chasms. Halila is a small village ; it has a trifling
square fort, with a tower at each angle, but without any guns. Cotton
is sown more systematically in the territory immediately adjacent to
Halila than in that of Bushire. Here and there over the plain are
some little spots sacred to the dead, and defended by small works
of stones.

The Sapphire lay about four miles off the shore, in four feet and

i 2

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

a half low water, and in quarter less five at high. The ground was
marl and very thick mud, so tenacious, that it was necessary every
three or four days to move the anchor. The refraction was so great,
that, for their daily observations at the sun's meridian, they were obliged
to allow for it more than what is noted in the nautical tables. In my
visit on board, I took the following bearings from the quarter-deck.
Town N. 55 E. Concorde Lodge E. Halila Peak S. ?0 E. Asses Ears
and Beshire Point S. 35 E. Cape Bang (the extremity of the land)
N. 11 E.

The water of Bushire has a cathartic quality of most immediate
effect in a stranger's habit, but after the experience of about a month
it ceases to have so violent a power.

The meteorological journal which I kept may not be useless, and I
give therefore the month of November in the Appendix. On the night
of the 10th of that month, a most violent storm blew from the north-
west. The whole atmosphere was in a blaze of fire ; the claps of thun-
der succeeded one another with a rapidity, which rendered them scarcely
separable, and the rain poured down in torrents ; but when all was
over, the air possessed a freshness which was most grateful. The storms
from the N. W. are very frequent in the winter ; and though in no part
of the world do I recollect to have seen one so tremendous as this, I
am told that it was not to be compared with some which are experienced
at Bushire.

In three or four days the mountains which bore N. N. E. from our
dwelling were already covered with snow. This was reckoned early in
the season. The people soon begun to put on their warmer clothing.
Coughs and colds became very prevalent, particularly among the Indian
servants, who were clad more lightly than either the Europeans or the
natives.

About the 20th of November the people commence ploughing ; the
soil is so light that it is turned up with very little labour ; the plough,
therefore, is dragged mostly by one ox only, and not unfrequently even
by an ass. All their agricultural implements are of the rudest con-

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

struction. At this period, larks fly about in large numbers, and feed
upon the seed just sowing. There are also great flocks of pigeons,
cormorants, curlews, and hoobaras (bustards). On the 25th we saw a
white swallow flitting about the house. Sparrows were not so numerous
as in the beginning of the month. Flies appeared with a south wind ;
but were scarce when it blew from the northward. The fruits in season
were melons, dates, pomegranates, apples, pears, and sweet limes ; and
a small and very pleasant orange was just coming in. Our vegetables
were spin age, bcndes, and onions, and cabbages and turnips from Bua-
sora. Of our meat, the finest was mutton, veal was coarse, but the beef
pretty good, and the fowls were admirable. There were no turkies or
geese indeed ; nor ducks, except some that we occasionally got from
Bussora.

The climate of Bushire is healthy, if we might judge from the two
or three examples of strong and active old age which came within our,
notice: one, my own Persian master, Mollah Hassan; another in
the Resident's family, who has trimmed pipes for two-thirds of a cen-
tury, and who was a young man with mustachios and a sprouting
beard, when Nadir Shah was at Shiraz. Another is an old fellow of
the name of Ayecal, which, from the keenness of his love of sporting,
has been familiarized by the English into Jackall.
The better sort of women are scarcely ever seen, and when they are,
their faces are so completely covered that no feature can be distin-
guished. The poorer women, indeed, are not so confined, for they go
in troops to draw water for the place. I have seen the elder ones sitting
and chatting at the well, and spinning the coarse cotton of the country,
while the young girls filled the skin which contains the water, and which
they all carry on their backs into the town. They do not wear shoes ;
their dress consists of a very ample shirt, a pair of loose trowsers, and
the veil which goes over all. Their appearance is most doleful ; though
I have still noticed a pretty face through all the filth of their attire. The
colour of their clothes is originally brown, but when they become too
dirty to be worn under that hue, they are sent to the dyer, who is sup-

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

posed to clean them by superinducing a dark-blue or black tint. In
almost every situation they might be considered as the attendants on a
burial ; but in a real case of death there are professional mourners, who
are hired to see proper respect paid to the deceased, by keeping up the
cries of etiquette to his memory.

Among the superstitions in Persia, that which depends on the crowing
of a cock, is not the least remarkable. If the cock crows at a proper
hour, they esteem it a good omen ; if at an improper season, they kill
him. I am told that the favourable hours are at nine, both in the morn-
ing and in the evening, at noon and at midnight.

But the lion, in the popular belief of Persia, has a discernment much
more important to the interests of mankind. A fellow told me with
the gravest face, that a lion of their own country would never hurt a
Sheyah, (the sect of the Mahomedan religion which follows Ali, and
which is established in Persia,) but would always devour a Surmi, (who
recognises before Ali the three first caliphs.) On meeting a lion, you
have only therefore to say, " Ya AH," and the beast will walk by you
with great respect ; but should you either from zeal or the forgetfulness
of terror, exclaim " Ya Omar / Oh Omar \" he will spring upon you
instantly.

III. Animals of the Dashtistan. About twenty-five years, ago, m
the time of Sheik Nasr, who possessed both Bushire and the island of
Bahrein, and who consequently was enabled to improve the native
breed of Persia, by bringing over the Nedj stallion, the Dashtistan
became celebrated for a horse of strength and bottom. But the original
breed of Persia, that which is now restored, is a tall, lank, ill-formed,
and generally vicious animal ; useful indeed for hard work, but un-
pleasant to ride compared with the elegant action and docility of the
Arab. There is another race of the Turcoman breed, (such as are
seen at Smyrna, and through all Asia Minor), a short, thick, round-
necked, and strong-leg^ horse, short quartered, and inclined behind.
There is also a fine breed produced by the Turcoman mare and the
Nedj stallion. At two different times, large lots of horses were offered

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 63

to us for sale : the first, by the people of the Shiraz officer, who asked
immense prices, and when refused, departed in apparent ill-humour, but
o-enerally returned and took the reduced sum which was offered. In
this way also we purchased a lot of forty horses, principally of the
Turcoman breed, which had been destined for the Indian market, and
for which an average price of three hundred and twenty piastres for each
horse had been asked at Bushire, but which at the end of the month
were sold to us for two hundred and fifty. The distinct and charac-
teristic value of the horses of the country, was exemplified in a present
of two, which the Envoy received from the Sheik of Bushire. One was
a beautiful Arab colt, of the sweetest temper I ever knew in a horse,
friskino- about like a lamb, and yet so docile, that though now for the
first time mounted, he seemed to have been long used to the bit, a sure
proof in the estimation of the country of the excellence of his breed.
The other was a Persian colt of the most stubborn and vicious nature ;
to the astonishment and admiration however of the Persians, the Envoy's
Yorkshire groom by mere dint of whip and spur, subdued the creature
and rendered him fit to ride : a triumph which established the groom's
reputation readily, among a people peculiarly alive to the superiority of
their own horsemanship. A horse more than ordinarily vicious was
tamed in a singular manner by the people of the country. He was
turned out loose (muzzled indeed in his mouth, where his ferociousness
was most formidable) to await in an enclosure the attack of two horses,
whose mouths and legs at full liberty were immediately directed against
him. The success was as singular as the experiment ; and the violence
of the discipline which he endured, subdued the nature of the beast, and
rendered him the quietest of his kind. The horses are fastened in the
stables by their fore legs, and pinioned by a rope from the hind leg to
stakes at about six feet distant behind, so that although the animals are
well inclined to quarrel, and are only four or five feet asunder, they can
scarcely in this position succeed in hurting each other : frequently how-
ever they do get loose, and then most furious battles ensue. I have

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

often admired the courage and dexterity with which the Persian
Jelowdars or grooms throw themselves into the thickest engagement of
angry horses ; and, in defiance of the kicks and bites around them, con-
trive to separate them.

The Resident's stud consists of about twenty horses, mules, and
asses ; eight of the horses belong to the East India Company, and are
principally employed in carrying choppers or couriers to Shiraz. These
are obliged however to be renewed very frequently, because one such
journey generally destroys the animal that performs it ; so difficult are
the passes of the mountains, and so unmerciful arc the riders.

They have in Persia a very large and ferocious dog, called the kqfla
dog, from his being the watchful and faithful companion of the kqfla or
caravan. Each muleteer has his dog, and so correct is the animal's
knowledge of the mules that belong to his master, that he will discover
those that have strayed, and will bring them back to their associates ;
and on the other hand, when at night the whole caravan stops, and the
mules are parcelled in square lots, the guardian dog will permit no
strange mule to join the party under his charge, or to encroach upon
their ground. His strength and his ferocity are equal to his intelli-
gence and watchfulness.

We chased one day a large white fox. They prey about the open
country round Bushire in great numbers, for the natives do not destroy
them with all the zeal of Englishmen. The wild animals of the Dash-
tistan are the wolf, the hysena, the fox, the porcupine, the mangousti,
the antelope, the wild boar, the jerboa, and sometimes the wild goat.
The mountains of the Dashtistan have also the lion, and he has been
known to descend into the plain. On the 12th December, Captain
Davis, of the Sapphire, shot two cormorants out of a flock that were
squatted on a tree. Partridges also have been seen to settle in the same
situation. The hawks, which are used in hunting, are the chcrk, the
halban, and the shahein.

We set off on the 29th of November, before sun-rise, to hunt with

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

hawks. The freshness, or rather the coldness of the morning, was quite
revivifying. We were accompanied by an old and keen sportsman,
who had long been renowned in the plains of Bushiie for his expertncss
in training a hawk, and his perseverance in hunting the hoobara or
bustard. The old ffeis, the name by which he was known, was one of
the most picturesque figures on horseback that I ever saw. He was
rather tall, with a neck very long, and a beard very grey. His body,
either through age or the long use of a favourite position on horseback,
inclined forwards till it made an angle of 45° with his thighs, which
run nearly parallel to the horse's back ; and his beard projected so much
from his lank neck, that it completed the amusement of the profile. On
his right wrist, which was covered by large gloves, his hawk wa5
perched. The bird is always kept hood-winked, tiU the game be near.
On our way we were joined by Hassan Khan, the Governor of
Dastiy who also carried a hawk, and who was attended by about
fifteen men with spears, the kaleo6ns> or water pipes, &c. We proceeded
to Halila, where we commenced our hunt. A hoobara started almost
under the foot of my horse ; as the bird flew, a hawk was unhooded
that he might mark the direction, and was loosed only when it settled.
But the sport was unsuccessful in two or three attempts ; in fact, when
the hawk has had one flight, and has missed his prey, he should be fed
with the blood of a pigeon, and then hood-winked, and not permitted
to fly again in that day's sport. As soon as the hawk has taken his
flight, the sportsmen remain quiet till they can see that their bird has
seized his prey, when they ride up and disengage them.

The Jerboa. On the 1st Dec. we caught some jerboas ; and I had
an opportunity of delineating and observing with some nicety all their
different properties. The description of this animal has been given so
minutely by Sonnini, and, with the controversy on the subject, has
occupied indeed so very long a chapter of one of his volumes, that it
would be superfluous to go over again the same tedious ground. As
there are, however, some little exceptions in the jerboa which I saw at
Bushire, I shall endeavour to point them out. In the first place, that

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE.

gradation from the bird to the quadruped, which Sonnini traced in
the hopping motion of the jerboa, did not strike me with the same degree
of conviction. When unpursued the animal certainly hops, though this
admission does not imply that he cannot walk without hopping. But
when he is escaping from any alarm, he may almost be said to lay him-
self flat on the surface of the ground from the immense tension of his
hind legs, and literally to run ventre a terre. Yet as every observer will
feel that there are shades by which the works of creation gradually
resolve into each other, and which, by a slow operation, connect the
zoophyte with the animated world, and the bird with the quadruped,
the jerboa may still serve as one of the first and most perceptible grada-
tions between two kingdoms of nature ; but kangaroos, a larger and
nobler specimen, would illustrate, the connection as correctly.

On the specific description of the. animal I agree with Sonnini's
account of the Egyptian jerboas, except that, in two which I examined,
I could not find the spur or the small rudiment of a fourth toe on the
heel of the hinder foot ; on the existence of which depends essentially
the resemblance which he has discovered between the jerboa and the
alagtaga of Tartary. But as the jerboa of Hasselquist, of Bruce,
and of Sonnini all seem to differ from each other, and from those
which I examined, in some minute circumstance, it is reasonable to
conclude, less that there is any incorrectness in the descriptions, than
that there is an essential variety in the animals. The jerboas in the
deserts before us at Bushire, do not live in troops, as those of Egypt, ac-
cording to Sonnini ; each has his hole to which he retires with the
utmost precipitation ; nor is it possible to take him by surprise in the
day, as I learn from Sir Harford Jones, who has had ample oppor-
tunities of examining the history of the jerboas ; and therefore the cir-
cumstance, which Bruce mentions, of his Arabs having knocked
them down with sticks, extends probably to no general inference. Nor
can I think that Sonnini is correct in supposing that the animal is
fond of light. Those which I kept in a cage remained huddled together
under some cotton during the day, but in the night made such

RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 6?

a scratching, that I was obliged to send them out of the room. Besides,
one of the most common methods of catching them is by the glare of a
lanthorn, which seems to deprive them of the power of moving,
and subjects them quietly to the hand of the man who bears the light.
There is another and an easy way of catching them, by pouring water
down one of the apertures of their retreat ; they immediately jump out.
"We hunted several with spaniels, but, although surrounded on all sides,
they escaped with the greatest facility : when very closely pressed, they
have a most dextrous method of springing to an amazing height over
the heads of their pursuers ; and, making two or three somersets in the
air, they come down again in all safety on their hinder legs, many yards
from the spot of their ascent. In this leap they probably use their
diminutive paws. Even a greyhound stands no chance with them ; for
as soon as he comes near, they take to the somersets, and the dog is
completely thrown out. Their flesh is reckoned very fine, as the
people here who eat them assure me. As the animal is very sensible of
cold, and formed so delicately and apparently so little prepared to
resist frosts and snows, I cannot think, though Sonnini seems to imply
it, that it is found in very northern climates. Rats and hares indeed
are found in the coldest as well as in the warmest parts of the world ;
but nature has provided them with a clothing more appropriate to the
change.

c 2

CHAP. V.

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

DEPARTURE FROM BUSHIRE ARRANGEMENTS OF THE CAMP-
MEETING WITH MAHOMED NEBEE KHANI ENTERTAINMENT —
THE ISTAKBALL — DAULAKEE — MINERAL STREAMS — VEGETATION
—PASSAGE OFTHECOTUL — PLAIN OF KHISHT — THE GOVERNOR-
CARAVANSERAI THE MOUNTAIN ROBBERS KAMAURIDGE

KAUZERON: HONORS PAID TO THE ENVOY — RUINS OF SHAPOUR:
GENERAL VIEW; ACROPOLIS; SCULPTURES; ROMAN FIGURES;
THEATRE; TRADITIONS — PASSES OF THE MOUNTAINS — FIRMAN
FROM THE KING — APPROACH TO SHIRAZ — ISTAKBALLS — PRE-
SENT FROM THE PRINCE.

X HE preparations for our departure, which had been suspended by
different events, were now resumed with much alacrity. I felt that the
cold, which we should soon encounter, might possibly kill my Indian
servant, and I accordingly sent him back to Bombay. The Ferosh
Bashee, or chief tent-pitcher, an officer of much utility in the progress
of our journey, now brought with him to our camp a large number of
adherents in subordinate capacities, who on their entrance requested the
Envoy's permission to say their prayers in the manner and time ap-
pointed by their religion. The next morning I was roused by a noise,
which I at last discovered to be compounded of the trumpet of the troop

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under Sir Harford .Tones. Bar 1 .
Through PERSIA, in 1809.

3y James Sutherland..
Captain on the Zoniboy SstaiUfhmcnt-

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BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

blowing the reveille, and the voice of a Persian priest calling the faithful
to prayers : lungs originally strong had been so disciplined and exer-
cised for the purpose, that the voice was more potent than the
trumpet.

Our Mehmandar, Mahomed Zeky Khan, arrived on the 10th; we
went out to meet him, attended by the body guard in their best array,
and accompanied by a host of Persians. As the preparations for our
journey were now completed, the 17th Dec. 1808 was fixed for our de-
parture. On the 16th the Ternate, Lieut. Sealy, sailed for Bombay
with the Envoy's dispatches to the Indian government ; and on the next
day the Sapphire, which was appointed to convey the dispatches to
England, proceeded to Kharrack to take in water for the voyage.

All our arrangements were closed ; and on the same morning, at a
quarter past eleven o'clock, the Envoy mounted his horse to proceed
from Bushire. In order to excite in the people a favourable expectation
of the result of the mission, he had previously desired the astrologers to
mention the time which they might deem lucky for his departure ; and
the hour accordingly in which we begun our journey was pronounced, by
their authority, to be particularly fortunate. Sir Harford Jones's
suite consisted of Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Bruce, Captain Suther-
land, Cornet Willock, Dr. Jukes, and myself. He had two Swiss
servants and an English groom, an English and a Portuguese tailor,
about half a dozen Indians, and a very numerous assortment of
Persians.

The Sapphire saluted us as we set out ; shortly after we met the Meh-
mandar and his cortege, and after some little exchange of civilities we
all went on together. The order of the cavalcade was as follows : — The
led horses, ten in number, each conducted by a well-clad jelowdar or
groom ; then the chief of the jelowdars with his staff of office ; then
the arz-beg or lord of requests ; after him were six chatters or running
footmen, who immediately preceded the Envoy. The Envoy himself
was mounted on a choice Arab horse; at his right stirrup walked a
picked tall chatter, the chief of his class. Then followed the gentlemen of

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

the mission, amongst whom were disposed some moonshees. To the right
and left were the pipe-trimmers, who carried all the smoking apparatus
in*boxes fashioned for the purpose.* Behind the gentlemen and the
moonshees came a great crowd of Persians on horseback ; and, to close
the whole, the body guard came along in goodly rows, and made an ad-
mirable finish to the groupe.

The baggage all loaded on mules preceded us regularly on our march,
so that when we arrived at the end of our stage we always found our
tents pitched.

The arrangements of our camp were as follows : — There were two
state tents, one for dinner, the other for receiving company. The latter,
with the Envoy's private tent, were enclosed within walls. Around
these were the tents of the gentlemen of the mission, each person having
his own. There was also one appropriated to cooking, and many others
of a smaller size for the servants, and the guard of cavalry.

After our dinner was over, which was generally an hour or two after
sun-set, the dinner tent was taken down, loaded on the mules, and sent
onwards to the next stage in readiness to receive us. About day-break
in the morning, the camp begun to break up ; and before our breakfast
was over, for which one tent was left, all the rest of the ground was
cleared, and the baggage was far on its road to the next stage. The
Persians are so accustomed to this manner of life, that they pitch and
unpitch a camp with the most perfect dexterity and order. Much of
course depends upon the chief of the Feroshes or tent-pitchers, called
the Ferosh-Bashee, who must necessarily be very active. The man who
filled this department in our mission was very clever, but probably a
great rogue, of which at least he displayed a presumptive proof, as he
had lost an ear, the forfeit of some former misdemeanour. The office
of Charwardar or Chief Muleteer, is another also that requires much
activity and watchfulness, to superintend properly the loading and un-
loading of the mules with order and dispatch.

* See Plate VII. in which they are incidentally introduced.

^V:.:^

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

We marched for about four miles in a direct bearing with Halila
Peak, (which bore S. 70. E. from Mr. Bruce's house,) and then came
to the swamps, which terminate the extremity of the inlet of the sea,
from the port of Bushire. Having paced over those swamps for about
two miles more, we took a more easterly direction, and then marched
due E. to Alichangee, the village at which we encamped. The distance
is called five fursungs, but probably is not more than fourteen miles.
The soil over which we passed was sandy, and here and there strata of
rock. The weather was hazy, and gave the country a broken and un-
connected appearance.

As we approached our encampment, we were treated with a scene of
Persian splendour and etiquette, in the meeting of the Envoy with his
old friend and tutor, Mahomed Nebee Khan, the Governor of
Bushire. He had been informed that the Envoy intended passing the
following day with him, and accordingly prepared for his reception.

About a mile from our encampment we met him; a very large
portion of the military of Bushire had already greeted his arrival.
His approach was first announced by a salute from all the matchlock
guns of his guards, who were posted in our way to frighten our horses.
The Khan then appeared himself, surrounded by an immense host,
who, clearing away as soon as they came near our party, gave the two
great men free access to one another. They exchanged embraces, and
once again mounted their horses. We all returned together, and formed
a party so thickly cemented, that the dust of the desert was raised in
masses, which quite obscured the air.

Mahomed Nebee Khan and our Mehmandar escorted the Envoy
to his own tent, and after a short visit, departed amid the same crowd
and noise.

On Sunday the 18th, when I had performed divine service in the
Envoy's tent, we paid a visit of ceremony to Mahomed Nebee
Khan. According to the fashion of the country, we proceeded on
horseback, although his tent was within a stone's throw. We were met
by one of his officers, and an escort of ten men, who made their

BUSIIIRE TO SHIRAZ.

obeisance to the Envoy, and preceded his horse, until we arrived at the
door, where the Khan himself was waiting. He received us most graci-
ously, and after we had pulled off' our boots and shoes, and Sir Har-
ford and the Khan had gone through some little polite difficulties
about their seats, we finally settled ourselves on chairs prepared for us.
The Khans tent Was very neat, and appeared to us a most desirable
residence. It had a large exterior covering, and close to the extremity
a wall all round ; and in the interior, there was a clean little recess
closely covered with carpets, and lined with the finest chintz, the
borders of which were adorned with a broad fringe. Our host was a
man of great notoriety both in Persia and in India ; his manners were
greatly in his favour, and he was dressed more like a noble than any
other man whom I had yet seen in the country. His beard presented
no plebeian roughness, and the dagger in his girdle glittered with pre-
cious stones. When the usual compliments had been severally paid,
that silence of solemnity, which generally marks the visits of form, suc-
ceeded, till the kakoons, or water pipes, were introduced to our relief.
The coffees and sherbets followed, and the whole entertainment con-
cluded with a course of sweetmeats, which was brought upon separate
trays, each serving two guests. The only unsatisfactory part of the visit
was the intended politeness of two lusty attendants, who broke some of
the sweetmeats in their suspicious hands, blew the dust off* the fragments
with their more suspicious mouths, and then laid them before us. After
a washing of hands, (in which we felt the full want of towels), and a
parting kaleoon, we took our leave, and left the Envoy to a private con-
ference with the Khan.

The trays, from which we eat, had the appearance of silver, though
I understood afterwards that they were plated only. They were neatly
carved in flowers and other ornaments. The articles which they con-
tained were made of almonds, pistachio nuts, and a paste of sugar ;
others were like our alicampane and barley sugar, and all were very nice.
The Persians are almost indescribably fond of sweetmeats, which they
eat in very great quantities. The abundance indeed of fruits and sher-

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

bets presented daily to the Envoy by the Mehmandar, proved the im-
mense supply which the taste of the country demanded. The presents
were arranged prettily in trays and boxes, and carried in great form on
the heads of servants, but they were less acceptable, because for each
the conductor required a present in money. By such means the great
men in Persia pay their servants, who in general receive no other wages.
The person, therefore, to whom such an office as that of Mehmandar is
entrusted, is, of course, surrounded by hordes of adherents, who are al-
lured by receipts so certain and valuable.

The new Governor had consulted the astrologers of Bushire to deter-
mine the most propitious time for his entrance into the town, which, by
their predictions, was at three hours before sun-set on the 19th. In
conformity therefore to the decision, he was now delaying his advance
till the happier period should arrive. When, on a former occasion, he
was departing from Bushire to embark on board the ship, which was to
carry him on his mission to Calcutta, he was ordered by these astrolo-
gers (as the only means of counteracting the influence of a certain evil
star) to go out of his house in a particular aspect: as unfortunately
there happened to be no door in that direction, he caused a hole to be
made in the wall, and thus made his exit.

In the evening we dined with Mahomed Nebee Khan. We did
not go till the Khan had sent to the Envoy to say, that the entertain-
ment was ready for his reception, a custom always observed on such
occasions* When we arrived at his tent, the same ceremonies passed
as in the morning, except that we sat upon the ground, where the in-
flexibility of our knees rendered the position more difficult than can
be described. The Khan, who seemed to commiserate the tightness
of our pantaloons, begged that we would extend our legs at their full
length : fearing, however, to be rude, we chose to be uncomfortable,
and to imitate their fashion as faithfully as possible ; and really, with

* That the same custom prevailed anciently in the East may be inferred from St.
Matthew xxii. 2 — 4. St. Luke xiv. 16. 17.

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

respect to my own feelings, I thought complaisance was never carried
further. The guests besides ourselves, were our Mehmandar and the
Persian Secretary. I preserved part of the conversation : in talking of
the admirable skill with which the guns of the Nereide were fired in
the re-capture of the Sylph, the Mehmandar said to the Secretary,
" you ought to have kissed the lips of those guns, whose execution was so
u effectual ; and walked around and around them, and in gratitude for
" your deliverance, to have put up prayers to Heaven for their preser-
" vation and prosperity/'

After having sat some time kaleoons were brought in, then coffee,
then kaleoons, then sweet coffee (the composition already noticed of
sugar and rose-water); and then kaleoons again. All this was rapidly
performed, when the Khan called for dinner. On the ground before us
was spread the sofra, a fine chintz cloth, which perfectly entrenched
our legs, and which is used so long unchanged, that the accumulated
fragments of former meals collect into a musty paste, and emit no very
savory smell ; but the Persians are content, for they say that changing
the sqfra brings ill luck. A tray was then placed before each guest ;
on these trays were three fine china bowls, which were filled with sher-
bets ; two made of sweet liquors, and one of a most exquisite species of
lemonade. There were besides, fruits ready cut, plates with elegant
little arrangements of sweetmeats and confectionary, and smaller cups
of sweet sherbet ; the whole of which were placed most symetrically,
and were quite inviting, even by their appearance. In the vases of
sherbet were spoons made of the pear tree, with very deep bowls, and
worked so delicately, that the long handle just slightly bent when
it was carried to the mouth. The pillaus succeeded, three of which were
placed before each two guests ; one of plain rice called the chillo, one
made of mutton with raisins and almoikls, the other of a fowl, with rich
spices and plumbs. To this were added various dishes with rich sauces,
and over each a small tincture of sweet sauce. Their cooking, indeed,
is mostly composed of sweets. The business of eating was a pleasure
to the Persians, but it was misery to us. They comfortably advanced

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

their chins close to the dishes, and commodiously scooped the rice or
other victuals into their mouths, with three fingers and the thumb of
their right hand ; but in vain did we attempt to approach the dish :
our tight-kneed breeches, and all the ligaments and buttons of our
dress, forbade us ; and we were forced to manage as well as we could,
fragments of meat and rice falling through our fingers all around us.
When we were all satisfied, dinner was carried away with the same
state in which it was brought: the servant who officiated, dropping
himself gracefully on one knee, as he earned away the trays, and pas-
sing them expertly over his head with both his hands, extended to the
lacquey, who was ready behind to carry them off. We were treated
with more kaleoons after dinner, and then departed to our beds.

On the morning of the 19th, the camp broke up at sunrise. We took
a hasty breakfast in the Envoy's tent, but a visit from Mahomed
Nebee Khan (which was preceded by a present of two horses and his
own sword) kept us on the ground till nine o'clock. The Khan, with
all his attendants, accompanied us about two miles. He was preparing
to enter Bushire, his new government, with all splendour. From the
town to the swamps were erected stages on which bullocks were to be
sacrificed, and from which their heads were to be thrown under his
horse's feet, as he advanced ; a ceremony indeed appropriated to Princes
alone, and to them, only on particular occasions. Yet, however
anxious originally for his station, and however splendid in his present
appearances, he felt the full dangers of his pre-eminence, and betrayed
an absence and uneasiness in his words and actions, which to us
evinced all his apprehensions. He was so conscious indeed of the diffi-
culties of his situation, that he had transmitted to the King a present of
two thousand tomauns. with a memorial, beseeching to be excused from
his government.

We marched at first north-westerly, till we came to the bed of a river,
or rather of a mountain- torrent, in which the actual stream of water
when we passed, was not above ten feet in breadth, though the channel

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

itself was perhaps thirty 3-ards. It falls into the sea in a due E. and Wi
direetion.

At two o'clock we came to Ahmadieh : at half past two we passed
a small fort called Khosh Aub, where a large body of people were
waiting our passage.* They were all armed with pikes, matchlocks,
swords and shields ; and gave us two vollies as a salute. They then
advanced to us, and being announced by the Arz-beg, wished us
a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility,
" khosh amedeed, you are welcome/' As we proceeded, our party was
headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horse-
back, all in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited
them with his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen
of the village performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped
to increase the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace
with us, until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little
army who were waiting our reception at Borazjoon : these also fired
their muskets.

From Khosh Aub to Borazjoon the ground appeared cultivated ; and
as we were approaching the latter village, we saw some of the peasants,
who, after having finished their toil in the fields were walking home with
their ploughs over their shoulders. I think we may fairly reckon at
twenty-five miles the distance from Alichangee to Borazjoon : the Per-
sians call it nine fursungs. The avenues to Borazjoon are through
plantations of date and tamarisk trees : the village is a collection of
huts, which surround a fort ; and the fort, like the rest of those which
I had seen, was a square, with turrets at each corner, which were cut
into small chequers at the top. There are the ruins of many small
forts all over the Dashtistan, which were built by some unsuccessful

* In the Journal this is the first notice of the Istakball, which so frequently recurs in the
future progress of the mission, as an honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distin-
guished traveller, and to conduct him in his passage.

jBUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

rebel, and which were left to decay as soon as he was quelled. I un-
derstand that the population of this district has been decreasing ever
since the happy days of Sheik Nasr. Almost the whole of its geo-
graphy present places which have names, but no inhabitants ; or if
there are any, they are the refuse only of former more nourishing
families.

In our road to-day, we saw immense flights of the toowee, or desert
partridge, and some ravens. The Mehmandar and the oldest of our
moonshees amused themselves in scouring the plains, and playing at the
dangerous game of the girid, in which the old scribe got a severe blow.
The Persians ride with great courage, for they drive their horses at
their greatest speed over any ground. They of course get frequent
falls, by which they are seldom much injured ; for though they gene-
rally alight on their heads, they are there saved by their immense
sheep-skin caps *

It was a quarter past eight before we mounted our horses on the
morning of the 21st, and ten minutes past twelve when we arrived at
Dmdakee, a distance called four fursungs, and which may be computed
at about twelve road miles. The site of Dmdakee is marked by a break
in the mountains, where the road which leads among them commences.
It bore N. 30 E. when we mounted. Our road was much broken by
the beds of numerous torrents, which, after the rain and melted snows,
fall from the adjacent mountains. We here and there met with small
encampments of the Elauts. They appear like the Tarcoma7is, whom I
have so frequently seen at Smyrna, and through the whole of Asia
Minor. At the distance of two miles we were met by the Istakball,
who fired their salute, and frightened the horses as before. This cere-
mony was repeated every day, so that a repetition of the description
will not be always necessary. They were all arranged on a rising

* " I have frequently amused myself in feeling their skulls, to ascertain if they are as
" soft now as when Herodotus described them ; but I never yet found one that was not

," hard and impenetrable,"

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

ground, at the foot of which ran a stream of mineral water, of a most
sulphureous smell. Further on we crossed other streams of the same
duality ; the heat of one of which, as it gushed from under the rocks,
was almost scalding. We brought home specimens of the incrustation
which the spray of the bubbles left on the surrounding rocks. The bed
of the stream was mostly of the colour of sulphur, although there were
patches here and there of a copper hue. Still a little further on, on
the left of the road, are two springs of naptha. The oil swims on the
surface of the water, and the peasantry take it off with a branch of
date tree, and collect it into small holes around the spring ready for
their immediate use. They daub the camels all over with it in the
spring, which preserves their coats, and prevents a disease in the skin,
which is common to them.

The huts in the village of Daidakee, as we rode through it, appeared
mostly to be covered on the tops with the entwined leaves of their date
trees, while the better houses are built of mud, and terraced. The
mosque was the most creditable building that met our eye in the whole
place: its interior seemed neatly arranged in arches, and preserved
clean with a white stucco. There was a little bath at the extremity of
the town. The customary fort (for such are found in most of these
villages) was situated in the middle of the huts, at the top of which
many an eager Persian was perched. This place, and indeed all we had
seen, presented a picture of poverty stronger than words can express.
There was nothing but what mere existence required ; nor to our very
cursory observation did the most trifling superfluity shew itself.

The river that runs by DaulaJcee meanders through the plain which
we had passed. All the mineral streams, which crossed our road, fall
into it, and renders its waters salt and brackish. The soil itself indeed,
at the roots of the mountains, is, in some places, saturated with a ni-
trous acid, of which, in the neigh bourhood of Daulakec, the people
make a pleasant beverage. In one of the recesses of the mountains,
however, there is a stream of pure and delicious water. In the evening
I walked to the spring, which is embosomed in date trees : it is beauti-

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

fully clear, and rather tepid. Its short course down into the plain is
marked by a wood, which more immediately flourishes wider its
influence, and follows its progress. In the lower country there is an
extensive tract covered with date trees, and forming a mass of verdure
on which the eye delights to rest after the constant glare of an arid
desert. It is extraordinary how vegetation thrives in this country,
wherever there is the least water. It is, indeed, a general rule, that
wherever they can irrigate they can produce vegetation ; and indeed
with no other moisture than the dews, and the few occasional showers
of the winter, the plain of Bushire (which all observers have agreed to
call a barren land) produces one hundred for seven. The rude manner
of cultivation here is sufficient to display the intrinsic goodness of the
soil ; for they just sprinkle with seed the spot marked out for the
plough, then make the superficial furrows, and obtain most abundant
crops.

We mounted this morning at eight o'clock, and arrived at our en-
campment at ten minutes before one. It is called four fursiuigs, but
we compute it at sixteen miles. We soon entered the mountains, and
followed the road through them to the Eastward. We came to the
river (which in its lower course passes near Daulakec) at half past nine
o'clock : we crossed it a second time about a quarter of an hour after,
and at ten o'clock passed it for the third and last time, at a ruined
bridge, of a structure which had once been neat. Alter hard rains its
bed is very extensive, and its current most rapid : so that it entirely im-
pedes the passage of travellers and caravans. At the fords where we
crossed, it was a very fine stream up to the bellies of our horses. After
that, we paced its banks, for the distance perhaps of half a mile, in a
8. E. direction. We saw it for the last time winding on a southern
course, when we had ascended an elevated peak of the Cotut range.
We gained this summit at half past eleven ; the road then continued
through the mountains till twelve o'clock, when we came on the plain
of KhLsht. At ten minutes before one we reached our encampment.
The extreme caprieiouKiitss of the windings of the road, rendered it

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

almost an impossible task to ascertain the ultimate and exact direction
of our bearing from Daulakee to Khisht. However it was evident, that
we had made a great deal of Easting, with a little Northing. The
mountains rose around in most fantastical forms, their strata having
their highest elevation towards the South, forming a dip of perhaps
forty-five degrees. The soil is mostly of a soft crumbling stone, large
fragments of which seemed just balancing at the brink of the precipice
above, and appearing to require only a touch to impel them into the
great chasms below. The passage of the river by our numerous party,
and the winding of the horsemen and loaded mules in the mountain-
passes, animated the whole of the dreary scenery around into the most
romantic pictures. The only verdure which cheered the sameness of
the glaring yellow of the mountain, was that of a few wild almond
trees.

Before we ascended to the plains of Khisht, a long string of match-
lock men and horsemen (the Istakball) who came out to meet the
Envoy, appeared on the brink of the precipice above us. As we
ascended they fired a volley, the sound of which returned in repeated
echoes through the mountains ; and when we came into the midst of
them, the horsemen begun their gambols; moving around us in all
directions, stopping their horses, couching their long lances, throwing
them, and then again galloping forwards. The footmen with their
matchlocks made a charge into the plain, shouting as they advanced,
as a representation perhaps of the ardour of their attack in real combat.
When we approached our encampment, we were met by the Governor
of Khisht himself, Zaul Khan, a man of remarkable appearance,
without eyes, and with the fragment of a tongue, the rest of which he
had forfeited during the troubles of Persia. He came riding on a mule
conducted by a young Persian. But the most extraordinary part of
his history is, that, notwithstanding his tongue is cut, he still talks intel-
ligibly. Before, indeed, this operation was performed, he had such an
impediment in his speech, that he was scarcely able to make himself
understood; but the mutilation was fortunate, and his articulation

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

has been improved. This the Envoy, who had known him before the
punishment, avers.

The plain of Khisht seems to form a complete oval, and presented
stronger marks of cultivation than any part of the Dashtistan which
we had seen. The Konar bushes were thickly sprinkled by the road-
side, and apparently all over the plain, besides plantations of date
trees. At Konar-a-Tackta (a village four miles and a half from Khisht,
and the place where we encamped,) there is a Caravanserai, which has
lately been erected by one of the wives of Zaul Khan, and is really a
neat and commodious building. An arched gateway introduces the
traveller into a square yard, around which are rooms, and behind which
are stables. There is also a small suite of rooms over the gateway. In
the centre of the court is an elevated platform, the roof of a sub-
terraneous chamber called a zeera zemeon, whither travellers retire
during the great heats of the summer, and which in those heats
is a very refreshing habitation. Behind the building is a tank or
reservoir for rain-water, which has newly been added, and is not
indeed yet finished. The whole forms an establishment most ac-
ceptable to travellers, and worthy of the Persian governments of
a better age.

On the 23d we rose before the sun, and though in a region so much
more elevated than the one in which we were on the preceding day,
the temperature of the atmosphere seemed the same. The sky was
clouded all over, and some predicted rain. One of our moonshces, who
was considered an astrologer, told me that, according to his observa-
tions, " it would rain, if God pleased." However, the day passed
without rain, and the opinion of the astrologer was, at any rate, equally
indisputable.

The trumpet, the signal for departure, sounded at twenty minutes
before eight, and w r e went off with the usual clatter and parade. The
course of the road bore N. E. : but when we had rode for about
four miles its direction was nearly due East. In an hour after our de-
ar

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

parture we came to the banks of a river, which is the same that, flow-
ing by Zeira, falls into the Daidakee river at Deerooga, and which,
according to my information, takes its rise in the mountains near
Shapour. Immediately on coming on its banks we began to wind
through the difficult passes of the mountains, which in various
parts are very dangerous. The Arab horses, who had been accustomed
to the equal surface of their own sandy plains, trode the rocky
sides of the mountains with fearful and uncertain steps, and one or two
of the most valuable of the Envoy's stud suffered by severe falls : the
Persian horses, on the contrary, scramble over the threatening emi-
nences, and confidently walk by the sides of the precipices with an
indifference, which gives an equal consciousness of security to their
riders. Our Mehmandar, by way of bravado, urged his horse over a
rocky heap, which appeared almost as the feat of a madman.

There were some particular points of view in our progress, that were
picturesque and grand in the extreme. The path wound so fantastically
along the side of the mountain, that those who were yet at the bottom
saw the whole surface intersected by the ranges of our procession ; and
the travellers at the upper point appeared so diminutive, that man and
brute could scarcely be distinguished from each other. Just before we
reached the very highest top of the mountain we came to a station of
Hhadars, and to the dwelling of a derveish, which was formed in the
crevice of a rock. In parts of our route we saw the Rodo-dendron,
one of the strongest symptoms of the change of our climate. We
reached our encampment at twenty minutes past eleven, and we found
it pitched near a Caravanserai The village of Khaumauridge is situated
on a small plain, and is distant about a mile N. 20 W. from the Cara-
vanserai. On an eminence over us was a small tower, where a rebel
stood a long siege.

The mountains through which we passed were infested by a race of
robbers called the Memmih Siinni. They live in the deepest recesses of
their wild valleys, and commit their depredations on the unguarded

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

travellers with an impunity quite characteristic of the state of the
country. Although some attempts have occasionally been made to
terrify them into submission, by inflicting the severest tortures on the
few individuals who have chanced to be caught, yet the example has
been lost on the living, and the love of independence and plunder has
outweighed the terrors of barbarous punishment and ignominious death.
The abrupt formation of their mountain haunts (labyrinths to those who
have not long practised them,) favours this community so materially,
that instances have been known of their having snatched from the very
centre of a caravan, some traveller who promised less resistance thaa
his companions, or some well loaded mule, that seemed to announce
more booty than others. When Brigadier-General Malcolm went
through their mountains on a former mission, the robbers bore off
some of his mules which carried part of the rich presents destined fot
the King of Persia. So firmly are they now established in their
fastnesses, that the neighbouring Khans and Governors of districts have
chosen, since the evil itself was inevitable, to take a part in its advan-
tages, and, it is said, maintain their own agents amongst the Memmlh
Sunni, with whom they have stipulated agreements about the fruits of
their plunder. They happened to be less predatory at the time of our
passage, and we proceeded through the mountains without the teas*
molestation.

The Caravanserai close to our encampment was a solid, though rathe*
ancient structure, and the walls, scribbled over with names or couplets,
attested the passage of frequent travellers. We saw a cock blackbird,
and Sir Harford fired three times on a thrush, which, notwithstand-
ing, kept its ground, until it was taken up in the hand, and indeed
permitted itself to be taken up frequently without offering to fly
away.

A road is making at the sole expence of Hajee Mahomed Hassam,
a merchant and inhabitant of Bushirc, which will cut through the moun-
tains from Kauzeroon to Khaumauridge, and shorten the distance two
fursungs. Its direction bore E. from us at Khaumauridge.

EU SHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

On the 24th our march commenced at eight, and we arrived at
Kauzeroon at half past two. We were about one hour pacing the plain
of Khaumauridge, and, allowing one mile for the other extremity, (which
we had passed on the preceding day) we may fairly calculate its whole
length at five miles. Its opening towards Kauzeroon is through a pass
called the Tengui Turkoun, between two high branches of the mountains.
There is besides a road to the left, which leads over the mountain, and
which the Envoy and some of the party took, because the pass is very
famous for the attacks of the robbers. The road was, however, guarded
at different stations by matchlock men, who had been placed there by
the direction of the Prince, which was one of the numerous instances of
his great attention to the mission.

Having descended once again, we came into the plains of Kauzeroon.
From the eminence we perceived the river, which we had passed near
Khisht, winding in a N. and S. direction behind the western hills. The
city of Shapour we just discovered at the foot of a mountain, then bear-
ing N. 50 E. Hills of very subordinate elevation run out from the
great range of mountains, and leave here and there little plains which
are all comprehended under the name of the plain of Kauzeroon.

We were met at Derees by a great crowd, who gambolled and saluted
as usual. As we passed between the huts, the women of the village
were collected on the roofs, and greeted our approach by a loud and
tremendous species of song, which yet at a distance was not disagree-
able. Money was thrown amongst the crowd, which added much to
the confusion of the scene, and excited a most active and querulous
scramble.

About two miles from Kauzeroon we were met by Mahomed Kouli
Kuan, the Governor of that place, who was attended by a numerous
company of horsemen. Mr. Bruce, Dr. Jukes, and myself dis-
mounted to pay him the usual compliment, and he then turned back
with us to his own town. About a mile further, almost the whole male
population was collected to meet us. A bottle, which contained sugar-
candy, was broken under the feet of the Envoy's horse, a ceremony

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

never practised in Persia to any but to royal personages ; and then
about thirty wrestlers, in party-coloured breeches, (their only covering)
and armed with a pair of clubs called meals, begun each to make the
most curious noise, move in the most extravagant postures, and display
their professional exploits all the way before our horses, until we reached
our encampment. It would be difficult to describe a crowd so wild
and confused. The extreme jolting, running, pushing, and scrambling
almost bewildered me : while the dust, which seemed to powder the
beards of the Persians, nearly suffocated us all. Probably ten thousand
persons of all descriptions were assembled. Officers were dispersed
among them, and with whips and sticks drove the crowd backwards or
forwards, as the occasion required. Nothing could exceed the tumult
and cries. Here men were tumbling one over the other in the inequa-
lities of the ground ; there horses were galloping in every direction,
while their riders were performing feats with their long spears ; behind
was an impenetrable crowd ; before us were the wrestlers dancing
about to the sound of three copper drums, and twirling round their
clubs. On every side was noise and confusion. This ceremony is
never practised but to princes of the blood, and we considered, there-
fore, the honours of this day as a further proof of the reviving influence
of the English name.

On Christmas day Sir Hatitoro Jones and I visited the ruins of
Shapour. We reckoned the distance at fifteen miles, in nearly a north
direction from Kauzeroon. About seven miles from our encampment,
we passed again through the village of Derees, which, from the extent
of the ruined houses, must once have been a large town. Every house
is covered with an arched roof, a mode of building which probably
originated in the scarcity of timber. It is indeed common in all the
places which we have seen ; and the doors and porticoes are universally
formed by a Saracenic arch. A miserable population, thinly inter-
spersed among the ruins of Derees, came out to greet our passage. On
the northern extremity of the town there is a place of burial, and over
one of the tombstones there was the figure of a lion.

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

After having passed two tombs, one on the right side and one on
the left of the road, we came to the bed of a torrent, over which there
seems to have been built an aqueduct ; for, on either side of its banks,
are the remains of masonry, and the trace of its conduit is perceived
on the southern bank. The extent of the ruins of Shapour to the
southward is marked by a beautiful stream of water. Over the spring r
from which it issues, the road is built, sustained by fragments of archi-
tecture, which are a part of the entablature of some public build-
ing, and by their dimensions must have appertained to a very
considerable edifice.

Immediately after having passed this spring we came upon the ruins
of Shapour* When standing on an eminence we computed the whole
to be comprised, on a rough calculation, within a circumference of
six miles. This circumference enclosed a tract of plain, and a hill on
which the remains of the ancient citadel formed a conspicuous and
commanding object. Whether by a mere caprice of nature, or whether
by the labour of man, this hill or Acropolis is distinctly separated from
the great range of mountains, forming the Eastern boundary of the plain
of Kauzeroon. Between this and another imposing mass of rock runs the
beautiful river of Shapour : we reckoned the space between the two
rocks at thirty yards, which formed a little plain of verdure and shrub-
bery, intersected indeed by the stream of the river .-f- The opening be-
twixt the two grand masses presented a landscape the most varied, the
most tranquil, the most picturesque, and, at the same time, the most
sublime that imagination can form. A black and stupendous rock
(the strata of which were thrown into strong and wild positions, and
formed an acute angle with the horizon) flanked the right of the pic-
ture : whilst another still more extraordinary rock, as richly illumined
as the other was darkened, supported the left. Between both a distant
range of mountains, whose roots were terminated by a plain, filled up
the interstice, forming a fine aerial perspective ; whilst the river and its

* See the notes at the end. + Plate IX. which marks the situation of some of the sculptures-

BUSIIIRE TO SHIRAZ.

rich shrubbery completed a most enlivening fore-ground. The hill, on
which the remains of the citadel stand, is covered with the ruins of
walls and turrets. On its eastern aspect, the nature of the fortification
can be traced easily ; for walls fill the chasms from rock to rock, forming
altogether a place of defence admirably strong.

The first object which arrested our attention, was a mutilated sculp-
ture of two colossal figures on horseback, carved on the super-
ficcs of the rock. The -figure on the right was the most injured ; the
only part indeed, which we could ascertain with precision, was one of
the front and two of the hinder feet of a horse, standing over the statue
of a man, who was extended at his full length, his face turning out-
wardly, and reposed upon his right hand, and his attire bearing marks
of a Roman costume. A figure in the same dress was placed in an atti-
tude of supplication at the horse's knees, and a head in alto-relievo just
appeared between the hinder feet. The equestrian figure on the left
was not quite so much mutilated, the horse and parts of the drapery on
the thighs being still well preserved. The dimensions of the figures are
as follows : length of the foot of the figure under the horse, fifteen
inches ; length of the whole figure sixteen feet one inch ; length of the
arm five feet ; chin to the summit of the head one foot two inches ;
Jength of the horse's leg from the lower part of the shoulder to the hoof
four feet four ; the dress of the figures was a short petticoat, from the
waist downwards just below the knees.

The next piece of sculpture (which, like the former, was carved upon
the mountain of the citadel), is perfect in all its parts. It consists of
three grand compartments, the central and most interesting represents
a figure on horseback, whose dress announces a royal personage. His
head-dress is a crown, on which is placed a globe ; his hair flows in
very large and massy curls over both shoulders, whilst a slight musta-
chio just covers his upper lip, and gives much expression to a counte-
nance strongly indicative of pride and majesty. His body is clothed
with a robe which falls in many folds to his girdle, and then extends
itself over his thigh and legs as low as his ancle. A quiver hangs by

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

his side; in his right hand he holds the hand of a figure behind him.
which stands so as to cover the whole hind quarter of his horse, and
which is dressed in the Roman tunic and helmet. A figure, habited
also in the Roman costume, is on its knees before the head of the
horse, with its hands extended, and with a face betraying entreaty.
Under the feet of the horse is another figure extended, in the same
attire and character as that of the other two Roman figures. To the
right of the tablet stands a figure (behind that in a suppliant attitude)
with his hands also extended, but dressed in a different manner, and,
as far as we could judge, with features more Egyptian than European.
In the angle between the king's head and the horse's is a Victory dis-
playing the scroll of Fame. A figure (part of which is concealed by
the one on its knees) completes the whole of this division. (Plate X.)
The second grand compartment, which is on the right, is divided again
into six sub-compartments ; in each of these are carved three figures,
the costumes and general physiognomies of which are all different.
They appear mostly in postures of supplication ; and, I should suspect,
are representations of vanquished people. On the left, in the third
grand compartment, are two rows of horsemen divided by one line into
two smaller compartments. They all have the same characteristic
dress and features as the royal figure in the centre, and certainly repre-
sent his forces. The whole of this most interesting monument is
sculptured on a very hard rock, which bears the finest polish, and which
we pronounced to be a coarse species of jasper. The shortness of our
stay did not afford me an opportunity of delineating the detail of the
many figures, which have been so faithfully pourtrayed. The artist
has preserved so much distinction in the countenances and features of
the different characters brought together in this groupe, that, if their
respective countries could be ascertained, (and study and close investi-
gation would probably secure the discovery) some important point of
ancient history would be elucidated by an evidence as ingenious as it
would be convincing. The dimensions we took are as follows : figures
on foot, height five feet nine inches; figures on horseback from the

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 89

rider's cap to the horse's hoofs six feet five inches : the minor tablets
are four feet ten inches in length ; the grand tablet eleven feet eleven
inches.

Having examined these, we next crossed the river to the sculptures on
the opposite rock. The first is a long tablet, containing a multitude
of figures. The principal person, (who is certainly the King repre-
sented in the former tablet) is placed in the very centre of the piece,
alone in a small compartment, and is seated with a sword placed be-
twixt his legs, on the pummel of which rests his left hand. It is a most
ridiculous object, with a head swelled by a singular wig to an immense
circumference. On his right, on the uppermost of two long slips,
are many men who seem to be a mixture of Persians and Romans ;
the former are conducting the latter as prisoners. Under these in the
lower slip are others, who by their wigs appear to be Persians : their
leader bears a human head in both hands, and extends it towards the
central figure. On the left are four small compartments; the first
(nearest that figure, and the highest from the ground) incloses a crowd
of men whose arms are placed over one another's shoulders. Below
these are five figures, one of whom leads a horse without any more fur-
niture than a bridle. The two other compartments are filled up
with eight figures each. We considered this to represent, in general, a
king seated iij. his room of audience surrounded by his own peo-
ple, and by nations tributary to him. The length is eleven yards
four inches.

On the left of this were two colossal figures on horseback, carved in
an alto relievo. The one to the right had all the dress, character and
features of the King above described ; the other, on the left, appeared
also a royal personage, but differing in dress, and in the furniture of his
horse. Both had their hands extended, and held a ring, which we
conceived to be emblematical of peace. The Envoy, who had seen
both these remains and Nakshi Rustam, prepared me to expect a
similar sculpture at the latter : and as I had not leisure to detail all the

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

subjects of Shapour, I preferred to delineate those, of which no other
specimen might exist, and therefore proceeded in our general examina-
tion. I must not however omit to say, that the sculpture of these two
figures was exquisite; the proportions and anatomy of both horses and
men were accurately preserved, so that the very veins and arteries in
the horses' legs and belly were most delicately delineated.

Walking forwards we came to a very extensive piece of sculpture,
the lower parts of which were entirely destroyed. We saw, however,
on the right, a row of camels' and men s heads intermixed ; and under
them a row of horses' and men's heads, which were demolished from
the horse's eye downwards. In front of these, at the distance of about
four feet, was part of a figure on a horse, the King as before, holding a
bow and four arrows in his right hand. We supposed that this might
be the commencement of a hunting piece. [Plate XI.]

Our research terminated in a most perfect sculpture : the extreme
interest of which only increased our regret, that the shortness of our
time would not allow us to give it all the observation and study which
it required. This piece contained a greater number of objects than
any of the others, and a much greater diversity of characters. The
surface of the rock is here divided into a variety of unequal com-
partments, all of which are occupied by a multitude of figures. In
the middle, is a rather reduced copy of the second relievo which I
have described (that of the King and the suppliant) except that, facing
the King there is an additional personage with a hand extended holding
a ring. In the first row, at the top on the right, are a number of slight
figures with their arms folded. The second is filled with a crowd, of
which some carry baskets. The third is equally covered ; and in the
right corner there is a man conducting a lion by a chain. In the
fourth, and just opposite to the King, is a very remarkable groupe,
whose loose and folded dresses denote Indians: one leads a horse,
whose furniture I have drawn with some care, and behind the horse is
an elephant. Under this, and close to the ground, are men in a Ro-
man costume ; amongst them is a chariot to which two horses are har-

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BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

nessed ; this also I have exactly delineated.* In five compartments on
the left (corresponding with those on the right) are placed thick
squadrons of Persian cavalry, all in a regular and military order,
marshalled as it were in echelon. Fourteen yards was the length of the
whole sculpture from point to point.

The path that conducted us round to these beautiful monuments, is
the course of an aqueduct, which appeared to be of more modern
workmanship. Bordering on the road which winds behind the hill
of the citadel, are numerous canals of water, formed most artificially
and closely cemented with darna. Besides these, there are very deep
wells, in parts of which the channels of the aqueduct are seen to pass.
After having repassed the river, we walked over the numerous mounds
of stones and earth which cover the ruined buildings of Shapour, and
which, if ever explored, would discover innumerable secrets of anti-
quity. We were conducted by the peasants who were with us, to the
remains of a very fine wall, which in the symmetry of its masonry
equalled any Grecian work that I have ever seen. Each stone was
four feet long, twenty-seven inches thick, and cut to the finest angles.
This wall formed the front to a square building, the area of which is
fifty-five feet. At the top were placed sphinxes couchant, a circum-
stance which we ascertained from discovering accidentally two eyes
and a mutilated foot at the extremity of one of the upper stones. In
this wall there is a window, which is arched by the formation
of its upper stone. Behind this square building, we traced most cor-
rectly the configuration of a theatre, thirty paces in length, and fourteen
in breadth. The place resembled at least those called theatres which I
have seen in Greece. From a comparison of their positions, we were
led to supposed that the building still extant must have been connected
with the other behind it, and may have formed perhaps the en-
trance to it. [Plate XIII.]

There are distinct mounds of earth scattered over the whole site of

* See the Fragments. The horse, the chariot, and the cavalry. Plate XII.

N %

BUSIIIRE TO SHIRAZ.

the city, to each of which there are one or more wells. These we
supposed to be ruins of separate houses. The people of Kauzeroon
relate that there are immense subterraneous passages at Shapour, and
connect the most extraordinary stories with them. Certainly one of
the least extraordinary is, that a horse and mare were lost in them, and
some time after re-appeared with a foal. Our informer added that one
of his own acquaintance was sent into these passages, and had ad-
vanced some way when he perceived a gigantic figure, which to his
fears appeared approaching towards him. He recovered himself how-
ever so far as to venture up to it, when, instead of a living monster, he
found a sculptured figure, the same as those on the exterior of the rock.
Asa measure of the extent of these labyrinths, they say, that it would
require twenty mauns of oil, (a maun is seven pounds and a quarter) to
light any one through all their intricacies.

The plants that we noticed near the river, on the site of the city, and
about the surrounding plain, were the palma christi, rodo-dendron, the
willow, wild fig, a plant which the Persians call shauk-a-booz, and caveer,
reeds, and benak or spice plant. The plain towards Shapour is much
more cultivated than towards Kauzeroon, and is intersected by a variety
of small artificial channels, which receive their supplies from the river.
The river itself is a stream of very fine water, but after having run
for about eighteen miles, it meets with a bed of salt among the moun-
tains, which renders its waters in its farther progress towards the sea
quite salt.

After having enjoyed the pleasure of exploring these remains, we re-
turned to Kauzeroon. This town covers a large extent of country, but
its walls and skirts are almost all in ruins. There is one green spot
near it, a garden planted chiefly with cypress and orange trees, and
belonging to the Governor. We walked there in the evening: at the
entrance is a pleasure house, from which the principal avenue and
garden are seen. We drank coffee in an upper room, neatly matted
and stuccoed, with painted glass windows ; and after having so long
roamed over barren mountains and desert plains, were much pleased to

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

meet with regular paths, refreshing rivulets, and luxuriant vegetation.*
The blackbird and the thrush were flying from tree to tree, and
reminded us how sensibly we had changed our climate.

We set off at eight o'clock on the morning of the 26th, and arrived at
our encampment in the valley of Abdoui, at half past twelve. The
road led by the walls of Kauzeroon, and through the plain, until we came
to a causeway called the Poul-aub-guinee, which is reckoned two
fursungs from Kauzeroon. From this spot (which is a swamp forming
the termination of the lake from the southward) the road begun to wind
up a high mountain called the Dockter or " Daughter/' Over this, in
the most difficult parts of the ascent, a road has been made, and parapet
walls built to screen the traveller from the dangers of the precipices,
which in some parts form an abrupt boundary to the road. Formerly
this road was singularly dangerous, and all the exertions and ingenuity
of the caravan drivers and leaders of mules were necessary to conduct
their animals in safety to the bottom. We were told that the driver,
when his mule was about descending a very steep part of the pass,
would seize it by the tail, and then with all his might hold it fast, until
the animal had found a footing for his fore feet, when again he helped
it in the same manner, until it was in perfect safety. We reached the
summit of the Dockter at about half past ten, and from thence we
marched over a better road, until we descended into the small and
beautiful valley of Abdoui. It is thickly covered with oak trees, which,
though of a small kind indeed, must in summer render it a verdant and
refreshing spot.

Whilst we were at dinner it was announced to the Envoy, that one
of his old Persian friends Mahomed Reza Khan was about to meet
him on his route ; tliat he was the bearer of good news, and would
therefore demand his moodjdehlook, the customary present. The news,
was the defeat of the Russians at Ei*ivan, whose loss in killed and

* " From the groves of orange tree9 at Kauzeroon, the bees cull a celebrated heney.'

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

prisoners amounted, according to the Persian's report, to six thousand
men. A firman from the King was also announced to be at this time
on the road for the Envoy.

Our picturesque camp, which was interspersed amongst the oaks of
the valley, was in motion at a quarter before eight on the morning of the
27th. After traversing nearly the full length of the plain, perhaps four
miles, we proceeded to the long and tedious rise of the Peera zun, or
" Old Woman," a mountain, the greatest height of which formed the
termination of our several ascents. We were at the top at twelve
o'clock, when we commenced our descent into the plain of Desht-e-
arjun, at the north extremity of which is situated the village of the
same name. Before we entered it, we were met by Mahomed Reza
Khan, who presented his letters from the Minister at the court of
Shiraz, and who received our compliments on the success of the Persian
arms. About two miles before we reached our encampment, we were
met by the istakball, which was like all the others, excepting that it
was accompanied by an old man blowing a brass trumpet of most
broken, hoarse and discordant note, and by a ragged boy on an ass,
who was beating two little kettle drums. About a quarter of a mile
from the village there is a burial place, with a lion on one of the tombs
as at Derees, and just under the mountain are a number of willow trees,
watered by a fine gushing spring.

The plain itself is swampy ; but the heights which bound it are all
of a hard and inhospitable rock. In the swamp are wild fowl innu-
merable, ducks, snipes, and divers. The spring was here most luxuriant,
and rendered the plain of Desht-e-arjtm one of the most delightful
spots which we had seen in the country. Some of the eminences are
in summer covered with vines, the seps of which were now seen just
peeping out of the brown soil. We were fortunate in having passed
the mountains ; for we had scarcely reached our encampment, when
thick clouds covered their summits, and here and there left extensive
layers of snow.

On the 28th, the morning was extremely cold, when the camp broke

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

up ; we set off at half past eight, and arrived at our resting place at a
quarter to twelve, a distance which we call ten miles. We continued
all the road in the same region as the plain of Desht-e-arjun, nor do I
think that any very considerable descent had brought us much below
the summit of the Peer a Zun. The people of the country reckon
Rhone Zenioun colder than Desht-e-a?jun, and indeed than any other
habitable place on their side of Persia. These spots are certainly much
more elevated than any other part in the line of our route. At Rhone
Zenioun there is only a Caravanserai; near it a small stream runs to
the Eastward ; we came to its banks at half past ten o'clock, but did
not cross it till close under the walls of the Caravanserai.

Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the informa-
tion that Kerim Khan, the bearer of the King's letter, was within a
mile of our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with
every honour, we exchanged*our travelling clothes for uniforms and
swords, which the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of cere-
mony among Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the Shiraz
road, with the body guard in their best clothes, with flying co-
lours and trumpets sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter
of a mile, when we perceived the Khan and his party descending
a neighbouring hill. The Envoy, the Mehmandar, and all the gentle-
men of the suite dismounted from their horses, and walked in form
towards Kerim Khan, who, in the same manner, advanced towards us
with an attendant behind him, bearing the King's firman. When the
greetings of welcome were interchanged, the Rhan took the King's
letter from under a handkerchief, with which it was covered, and deli-
vered it into the Envoy's hands, saying aloud, " This is the King's
"firman." Sir Harford received it with both his hands, and having car-
ried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his breast. We then mounted
our horses, and returned to the Envoy's tent, where all parties were
seated according to their respective ranks. A long exchange of com-
pliments then took place between the principals, M khosh amedeed" and

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

" bisgar khosk amedeed" (you are welcome, you are very welcome),
were repeated again and again. This is the phrase after the " selam
" alek" which is always used in Persia, and which answers to the
" khosh gneldin" of the Turks. The Turks never use the " selam akk"
to a Christian, or to one who is not of the faith ; but the Persians are
less scrupulous. Kerim Khan conveyed many nattering compli-
ments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his
own part. Sir Harford called for Peer Murad Beg, his chief
Moonshee, to read the firman. He arrived barefooted, and stood re-
spectfully at the end of the tent; when the firman was put into his
hands all the company stood up, and the Europeans took off their
hats: Peer Murad Beg read the firman aloud, with a marked
and song-like emphasis. He then delivered it to Sir Harford,
and we all seated ourselves again. After this, the usual routine
of smoking and coffee was performed^,' during which t:he different
gentlemen in the room were presented to Kerim Khan'; our Meh-
mandar officiated in this instance, and described all our different
qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour. Kerim
Khan then departed to lodge with the Mehmandar, who, on this
occasion, displayed considerable attention, though, in his general
manners, he had appeared a rough blunt soldier: knowing that the
Envoy (to whom in etiquette the duty devolved) was unprovided for
the reception of such a guest, he requested permission himself to en-
tertain the stranger.

29th. We departed from KhonS Zenioun this morning at half past
seven ; and at a quarter past eleven arrived at the Bagh Shah Cheragh,
a distance of twenty miles. We travelled mostly over a country of
ascents and descents, and on a better road than those of the pre-
ceding days. The same river, by the banks of which we had been
encamped, accompanied us in various directions, and, winding towards
the east, met us at a station of Rahdars,* (as we were entering the

* Niebuhr calls it Tchinar Raddar; he encamped there. Tom. II. p. 91.

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

plain of Shiraz), where we crossed it on a decayed bridge, and saw the
first view of Shiraz at the end of the plain. This day was replete with
attentions and honours to Sir Harford and his Mission; an istakball,
composed of fifty horsemen of our Mehmandars tribe, met us about three
miles from our encampment ; they were succeeded, as we advanced, by an
assemblage on foot, who threw a glass vessel filled with sweetmeats be-
neath the Envoy's horse, a ceremony which we had before witnessed at
Kauzeroon, and which we again understood to be an honour shared
with the King and his sons alone. Then came two of the principal
merchants of Shiraz, accompanied by a boy, the son of Mahomed
Nebee Khan, the new Governor of Bushire. They, however, incurred
the Envoy's displeasure by not dismounting from their horses, a form
always observed in Persia by those of lower rank, when they meet a
superior. We were thus met by three istakballs during the course of
the day, and Mahomed Zeky Khan, our Mehmandar, amused us by
the singing of a young boy, one of the first professional performers of
Shiraz. A number of feats were performed by many of the horsemen
who overspread the plain to a great extent ; some throwing the girid,
and then firing their pistols and muskets on full gallop, and others
throwing the lance in the air, and catching it again.

On our road the Mehmandar, who had just received the message from
Shiraz, announced that one of the Prince's own tents was pitched at
Bagh Shah Cheragh for the Envoy, and that the Prince further begged
his acceptance of it. The present, which was offered with so much
attention and delicacy, was worthy of the hand which gave it. On our
arrival we found it displayed in the full elegance of its construction*
It enclosed a large square occupied by a set of walls, the exterior of
which was a crimson field, with green embroidery ; on their interior
covering were worked cypress trees and fighting lions. The whole
was supported by three lofty and elegantly painted poles. Rich carpets
were spread on the ground, and the ceilings and hangings were of the
finest Masulipatam chintz, with appropriate poetical mottoes painted

BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.

in the cornices. The Feroshes (or tent-pitchers) had contrived to make
a small temporary garden before the entrance, and to introduce a little
stream of water to run through the few green sprouts which they had
planted. Three large trays of sweetmeats were placed in the tent
ready for the Envoy's reception ; upon which, when our visitors were
departed* we fed heartily. During the night, a fall of snow very oppor-
tunely laid the dust for our entrance into the city, in which were to be
displayed all our splendour and finery.

■
'i
• I
■

CHAP. VI.

SHIRAZ.

; . .

PUBLIC ENTRY INTO SHIRAZ — HONORS PAID TO THE MISSION-*-*
DESCRIPTION OF THE CTTY THF. ETSTVIROTSTS : TOMB OF HAFIZjj

haft-ten; story of sheik chenan; gardens; pleasure

houses introduction at the court of shiraz the

palace the prince his government fete given to

the envoy by the minister — present from the prince s

own table the chief secretary's entertainment

second interview with the prince — review — the fete
given to the mission by the mehmandar — the prince's
present; dresses of honor.

On the morning of the 30th Dec. the day fixed for our public entry
into Shiraz, all the suite appeared in full uniforms, and the Envoy in a
Persian cloak or catabee made of shawl, and lined with Samoor fur; a
dress permitted to the Princes alone, and on that account assumed by
Sir Harford, as the best means of conveying to the senses of the
multitude, the high consideration of the office which he bore. We pro-
ceeded from our encampment at ten o'clock. The troop was dressed
in their richest uniform, and made a very splendid escort. Our Meh*
mandar marshalled the whole of the Persian horsemen so admirably.

100

SHIRAZ.

that none crowded upon us in our march, and they only played about
as usual and animated the plain by their noise and games.

At about two miles from the city we were met by some of the chief
men of the place. It was a long contested negociation, whether they
also were to pay the Envoy the compliment of dismounting, nor
would they have submitted to this part of the ceremony, if Kerim
Khan, the bearer of the King's letter, had not rode forwards and re-
presented to them, that as he was sent from His Majesty to see that
every respect was properly shewn to the representative of the British
King, he must report their present conduct at Teheran. This hint had
the desired effect; and, as their party approached, the chiefs dis-
mounted, and I, with some other gentlemen of the Mission, dismounted
also, and went forward to meet them: the Envoy formally expressed
his determination to alight to nobody but the Minister. Those who
had yielded the honour thus reluctantly, were Bairam Ali Khan
Cad jar, the Ish Agassi, or Master of the Ceremonies of the Prince's
Household, and Hassan Khan Cadjar, both of the King's own
family; Ahmed Beg, one of the sons of Nasr Oallah Khan, the
Prince's Prime Minister; and Mirza Zain La bade en, the Chief
Secretary. We proceeded slowly across the plain ; the crowd and con-
fusion increased almost impenetrably, as we approached the city, and
nothing but the strength of our Mehmandar could have forced the
passage. Mounted on his powerful large horse he was in all parts, dis-
persing one crowd, pushing forwards another, and dealing out the most
unsparing blows to those who were disinclined to obey his call. At the
gate, however, notwithstanding all his exertions, the closing numbers
detained our progress for above a quarter of an hour ; and vollies of
blows were necessary to clear the entrance.

At length it was effected : the Envoy led the column, surrounded by
the Persian grandees, and followed by the gentlemen of the mission in
their rank, and the troop of the body guard. We passed through many
streets to the Bazar-a-Vakeel, a long and spacious building, the shops of
which were all laid out with their choicest merchandize to display on

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101

the occasion the plenty and prosperity of the country. The bazar
itself is the most splendid monument of the taste and magnificence of
Kerim Khan, who administered the affairs of Persia with sovereign
authority, under the name of Vakeel or Regent, and died in 1779.
The centre is marked above by a rotunda, and beneath by an enclosed
platform ; in the middle of which was seated the Cutwal or Minister of
Police. The trumpet of the troop, which was sounded all through the
streets, continued with finer effect under the covered roofs of the bazar.
As the Envoy passed, every one stood up ; all knew at least the blows
which followed any dilatoriness.

After a long procession we arrived at the house appropriated for our
reception. It was neatly built of a pale yellow brick, and was very
spacious, though considerably out of repair, and indeed in some parts
falling into absolute ruin. We were ushered into an apartment, where
a large service of sweetmeats and fruits was prepared for us. Here we
sat, until we had dispatched the usual forms of a visit with the
grandees who had met us, and had accompanied us thus far. The re-
maining part of the day was occupied in receiving other less noble visi-
tants, and in accepting the countless presents which were sent from
various parts, and which consisted for the most part of live lambs,
fruits and sweetmeats. The store of sweetmeats at last became so
great, that they were distributed amongst our numerous servants,
troopers, and feroshes. Among those, who succeeded the original party
of our guests, was an officer dispatched by the Minister Nasr Oallah
Khan with the intimation, that he deferred till the next day the
pleasure of visiting the Envoy, in the fear that at present he might be
fatigued with his journey. But our more brilliant visitors were Yusuf
Beg, a Georgian youth of pleasing manners, a favourite in the suite of
the Prince; and Abdullah Khan, who was nominated to officiate as
our Mehmandar, till we should meet on the road an officer appointed
by the King from his capital to assume the functions in the further
progress of the Mission.

102

SHIRAZ.

31st. Nasr Oallah Khan, accompanied by many of the greatest
men of Shiraz, paid their visit of ceremony to the Envoy. The mini-
ster s maimers were plain, his features hard, and his beard peculiarly
black. The usual routine of complimentary speeches and of other cere-
monies occupied both parties during his stay. The Envoy, from the
pressing invitation of the court, determined to hasten his departure
towards Teheran; and eight days were fixed for our stay at Shiraz t
though circumstances afterwards occasioned a further delay.

Shiraz has six gates : it is divided into twelve mahalehs or parishes,
in which there are fifteen considerable mosques, besides many others
of inferior note ; eleven medresses or colleges, fourteen bazars, thirteen
caravanserais, and twenty-six hummums or baths. Of the gardens round,
the principal are private property.

Of all the mosques, the Mesjed Ali (built in the Khalifat of Abbas)
is the most ancient, and the Mesjid No the largest. It was indeed ori-
ginally the palace of Attabek Shah, who, in a dangerous illness of
his son, consulted the Mollahs, and was answered, (as the only means
of the recovery of his child) that he must devote to the Almighty that,
which of all his worldly goods he valued most. He accordingly con-
verted his palace into a mosque, and the Mahomedans add, that his
son was in consequence restored to health. The Mesjid Jume'h is
likewise an ancient structure, and there are six others of an older date
than the time of Kerim Khan. Of the more modern mosques of
Shiraz the Mesjid Vakeel, the only one built by that Prince, is the
most beautiful.

Kerim Khan begun a college, but never finished it: there were
already six, one of the earliest of which (that founded by Imaum Kouli
Khan) is still the most frequented. Another was added by Haushem,
father of Hajee Ibrahim, the Vizier of the late King ; and the Peish
Namaz and Mooshtehed (Chief Priest of the city) built another.

The trades in Persia as in Turkey are carried on in separate bazars,
in which their shops are extended adjacent to each other on both sides

Hfa

SHIRAZ.

103

of the building. Before the reign of Kerim Khan, there were the
bazars of the shoemakers, tinmen, crockery-ware-dealers, and poul-
terers, and about seven others : after his time the Bazar Saduck Khan
was built ; but the most extensive, as well as the most beautiful of all,
was that already described, founded by Keium Khan himself, and
called the Bazar~a-Vakeel.

Of the caravanserais, the Kaisarieh Khoneh, built by Imaum Kouli
Khan, and now in ruins, is the most ancient. There is another old
structure, which was restored from a state of great decay, and assumed
the name of its second founder Ali Khan. There are five others, of
which one is called daphaugaun, or the dressers of sheep-skins for caps ;
another dakaukha, or dyers ; another Hindoohan, where the Hindoos
reside. These were all built before the accession of Kerim Khan, a
date at which the splendour of Shiraz revived. He added two within
the city, and one beyond the walls, and others have since been
erected.

The same Prince enriched his capital with three public baths, two
within and one without the town. Four have since been raised, but
there were already, before his reign, nineteen similar foundations.

There are several rnausolea in Shiraz; the most distinguished of
those without the walls is that of Hafiz : there is also beyond the
city, that of Mir Ali, son of Mirza Hamza, and grandson of the
Imaum Musa.

In an evening ride we visited the environs, and, leaving the city by
the Ispahan gate, crossed a bridge in very bad repair. The torrent
(over which it was thrown) in the day of Chardin passed through the
town ; it now flows in solitude, a mournful proof of the decay of Shiraz.
We came to the Mesjid Shah Mirza Hamza, a mosque erected by
Kerim Khan, in a separate chamber of which are laid the remains
©f his son Abdul Rakeem Khan. In the front court is an old and
majestic cypress. Although some parts of the fabric are in decay, it is
still beautiful. Its walls are built of the fine brick employed in all
the public work3 of its founder, and, indeed, in the best houses of

104

SHIRAZ.

Shiraz. Its cupola is covered with green-lacquered tiles of a semicir-
cular form, which, fitted in close lines, give a symmetrical appearance of
ribs to its shining surface. At the foot of the cupola, in Persian
characters, are verses from the Koran and invocations to the prophet.
Continuing our ride from this mosque, we turned out of the fine high
road, which is fifty feet broad and very even ; and followed a smaller
path on the right to the Hafizeea on the tomb of Hafiz, the most
favourite of Persian poets. This monument also, in its present state at
least, is alike the work of Ke rim Khan. It is placed in the court of
a pleasure house, which marks the spot frequented by the poet. The
building; extends across an enclosure : so that the front of it, which looks
towards the city, has a small court before it, and the back has another.
In the centre is an open vestibule supported by four marble columns,
opening on each side in to neat apartments . The tomb of H a f i z is placed
in the back court, at the foot of one of the cypress trees, which he planted
with his own hands. It is a parallelogram with a projecting base, and its
superficies is carved in the most exquisite manner. One of the Odes of the
Poet is engraved upon it, and the artist has succeeded so well, that the
letters seem rather to have been formed with the finest pen than sculptured
by a hard chissel. The whole is of the diaphanous marble of Tabriz, in
colour a combination of light greens, with here and there veins of red and
sometimes of blue. Some of the cypresses are very large, but Aga
Be sheer, the present chief of the Queen's eunuchs, who happened
to require timber for a building, cut down two of the most magnificent
trees. This is a place of great resort for the Persians, who go there to
smoke kaleoons, drink coffee, and recite verses.

After having done this, we proceeded forward, passing by the Chehel-
ten or forty bodies, until we came to the Haft-ten or seven bodies, both
buildings erected by Ke rim Khan to the memories of pious and ex-
traordinary men who lived there as Derveishes. The Haft-ten is a
pleasure house, the front of which is an enclosed garden planted with
rows of cypress and chenar trees (a species of sycamore, with a verdure
like that of the plane,) and interspersed with marble fountains. In its

SHIRAZ.

105

principal room, which is open in front and supported by two marble
columns, are some paintings, many of which represent the sanctity of
the Derveishes lives, and the ceremonies of the self-inflicted torments of
their bodies. The principal paintings are Abraham's Sacrifice of Isaac,
on the right; on the left, Moses keeping the flocks of Jethro. In the
centre is the story of Sheik Chenan, a popular tale in Shiraz.
Sheik Chenan, a Persian of the true faith, and a man of learning and
consequence, fell in love with an Armenian lady of great beauty, who
would not marry him unless he changed his religion. To this he agreed :
still she would not marry him, unless he would drink wine : this scruple
also he yielded. She resisted still, unless he consented to eat pork :
with this also he complied. Still she was coy and refused to fulfil her
engagement, unless he would be contented to drive swine before her.
Even this condition he accepted : and she then told him that she would
not have him at all, and laughed at him for his pains. The picture re-
presents the coquette at her window, laughing at Sheik Chenan, as
he is driving his pigs before her. The wainscoting of this room is of
Tabriz marble : one of the largest slabs is nine feet in length, and five
feet in breadth.

We quitted this pretty place, and taking the road to the right came
to a magnificent garden, another evidence of the splendour of the
age of Kerim Khan. From its founder it was called in his time
Bagh-a-Vakeel, but it has since acquired the name of Bagh-e-Iehan-
Ne?nah. An immense wall, of the neatest construction, encloses a
square tract of land, which is laid out into walks, shaded by cypress
and chenar trees, and watered by a variety of marble canals and small
artificial cascades. Over the entrance, which is a lofty and arched
passage, is built a pleasure-house. It consists of a centrical room with a
small closet at each corner. The ornaments and pain tings with which it
is embellished, are more rich and more elegant than I can describe.
The wainscot is of Tabriz marble, and inlaid with gold and ornamental
flowers, birds, and domestic animals. The pannels of the doors are
beautiful paintings, with the richest and most brilliant varnish ; and the

106

SHIRAZ.

ceiling and walls are all parcelled out into compartments, which
display equal execution. From the window I took a sketch of the
tomb of Hafiz, which lay contiguous to it on the left hand. The town
of Shiraz, with all its campagna, was full before my sight ; whilst the
setting sun threw the softest and most beautiful tints over the fine
scenery of the surrounding mountains. (See Plate XIV.) In the centre of
the bagh or garden is another of the principal pleasure-houses, which
they call koola-frangee or Frank's hat, because it is built something in
the shape of one. There is a basin in the middle of the principal room,
where a fountain plays and refreshes the air. The paintings and orna-
ments are not less beautiful and are more varied, than those of the last
described building. The cornices are laid out into small compartments,
where the painter has exerted his genius and fancy in delineating the
most fantastical little pictures. Here are hunts of lions, there the com-
bats of elephants and dragons : in one corner are dancing bears and
monkies, in another are represented the heroes and heroines of fairy
tales. The whole procession and amusements of a marriage are drawn
in one compartment, and next to them all the ceremonies of a circum-
cision. In short, if the painter's art had been equal to his fancy, these
different compositions would have excited as much admiration as they
now afforded amusement. The whole soil of this garden is artificial,
having been excavated from the area below, and raised into a high
terrace. The garden is now falling into decay ; but those who saw it in
the reign of Kerim Khan delight to describe its splendour, and do
not cease to give the most ravishing pictures of the beauty of all the
environs of his capital.

Having enjoyed the present remains of the scene, we returned to the
high road (on the right of which it is situated) and followed it to the
Tengui-AU-Acbar, a fortified pass in the time of the greatness of Shiraz,
and long indeed before that time. Here are the remains of that gate,
of which Le Br un in his travels has given a very correct drawing.
From the situation in which I sketched the ruin, I fancy that I must
have rested upon the very stone where Le Brun took his view : and

SHIRAZ.

ior

there is only that difference between the two, which unfortunately exists
in the real scene ; that mine presents devastation, where his picture
displays life and cultivation. An old Derveish now lives in a small cell
close to the ruined gate, and refreshes the passing stranger with a cup
of pure water. The remaining walls and turrets, which are nearly at-
tached to the gate on the Shiraz side, still attest the artificial strength
of the pass in former days ; and the formation of the lands around
points it out as a spot which the modern perfection of military art would
render an almost impregnable hold.

The Takht-a-Cadjar is a pleasure-house about a mile and a half East
of the town, erected by the present Family, and situated in an enclosed
garden of about twenty acres. It is built on a rock, but is much in-
ferior indeed both in solidity and ornament, to any of the works of
Kerim Khan. From the upper window of one of its rooms, I took
a view of the city, which extended itself beautifully before me. This
pleasure-house is much visited by the Prince ; on the left side of it he
has an enclosed place in which he keeps antelopes and other game.
From the quantity of water which runs through it, the garden itself
must be most luxuriant in vegetation, and in summer a most delight-
ful spot.

1st January, 1809- The first day of the new year was fixed for our
visit to the Prince. On the day appointed, accordingly Sir Harford,
preceded by our Mehmandar, and followed by the gentlemen of his
Mission and the body guard, paraded through the town as on the day
of our entry, until we reached the gate of state. The streets were filled
as before, and the bazars displayed all their wealth. The first gate
introduced us immediately from the bazar into the first court of the
palace. The breadth and length of this court were of large and fine
proportions. The high summits of its walls were crowned with arched
battlements, the planes of which were worked in a species of close
lattice. We proceeded through this court into another, the spacious
area of which seemed to form a complete square. Its magnificent walls
were covered in regular compartments with various implements of

p 2

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war arranged in distinct niches. Among them (besides spears, mus-
kets, Sec. and the small ensigns of their service) were the brass guns,
called zomboorek, which are mounted on the backs of camels. Along
the range stood soldiers in uniforms of scarlet cloth, an awkward imita-
tion of the Russian military dress.

About thirty paces from the principal gate Sir Harpord dis-
mounted, and followed by us all, whilst the trumpet of the troop
sounded the salute, advanced through the portico. Here the Ish Agassi,
or Master of the Ceremonies, Bairam Ali Khan Cadjar, who had
been seated in a small place opposite the entrance, rose at our approach
to meet us. He then called for his staff of office, (a black cane with a
carved pummel) and placing himself at the head of the party, led us
through rather a mean passage into a spacious court, at the extremity
of which appeared the Prince. He was seated in a kind of open room,
the front of which was supported by two pillars elegantly gilded
and painted. This is called the Dewan KhonSh, or Chamber of
Audience.

In the centre of the court is an avenue of lofty trees, at the sides of
which are two long canals : these numerous fountains threw up a
variety of little spouts of water, to the jingle of the wheels and bells of
their machinery. On all sides of the court were placed in close files a
number of well dressed men armed with muskets, pistols, and swords ;
these were the subalterns and the better sort of the soldiery in the
Prince's guard. Amongst them were here and there intermixed
officers of high rank. In the centre of the avenue, and on the borders
of the canal stood in long rows, respectfully silent and in postures
of humility, all the chief Officers, Khans, Governors of towns and
districts.

When we entered the court, the Ish Agassi stopt and made a very
Tow obeisance towards the Prince; and Sir Harford and his Mission
made an English bow, and just took off their hats. These salutations,
which were made four times in as many different places of the court,
were repeated as we entered the Dewan Khontk. The Prince in all this

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looked at us, but did not stir a muscle : we now proceeded straight
forwards until Sir Harford faced the Prince, where he was then
directed to sit, and we all took our stations in order. When we were
seated, the Prince said in a loud voice, " Khosh Amedeed" that is,
" you are welcome;" which was repeated by Nasr Oallah Khan
his Minister, who stood at about five paces from him in an attitude of
respect. Sir Harford made the compliments required, when the
Prince desired us to sit at our ease. We however, as in a former in-
stance, chose to be respectful and uncomfortable, and to continue in
the fashion of Persia.

The Prince then added a variety of nattering things, talked of the
friendship of the two nations, said how anxious his Father was to see
the Embassador, and advised him to proceed to his court without
delay. We had kaleoons, then coffee, and then (a compliment not re-
peated to a common guest) another haleoon. After this was over, we
got up, and making an obeisance, quitted the Prince's presence with
every precaution not to turn our backs as we departed. The same
number of bows, repeated in the same places as on our entrance, closed
the audience.

A li Mirza, the Prince of Shiraz, is not the least amiable of the
King's sons. After Prince Abbas Mirza, the Governor of Ader-
bigian, and the Heir of the crown, he is his father's greatest favourite.
In person he is an engaging youth of the most agreeable countenance
and of very pleasing manners. His dress was most sumptuous ; his
breast was one thick coat of pearls, which was terminated downwards
by a girdle of the richest stuffs. In this was placed a dagger, the head
of which dazzled by the number and the brilliancy of its inlaid
diamonds. His coat was rich crimson and gold brocade, with a thick
fur on the upper part. Around his black cap was wound a Cashmire
shawl, and by his side, in a gold platter, was a string of the finest
pearls. Before him was placed his kaleoon of state, a magnificent toy,
thickly inlaid with precious stones in every distinct part of its ma-
chinery. To me the Prince appeared to be under much constraint

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during the ceremony of our audience ; in which he had been previously
tutored by his minister : and I very easily believe, according to the
stories related of him, that he exchanges with eagerness these etiquettes
of rank for the less restrained enjoyments of his power. On these he
lavishes his revenue ; and in the costliness of a hunting equipage, the
fantasies of dress, and the delicacies of the Harem are frittered away a
hundred thousand tomautis sl year. Young as he is, (for he is only
nineteen) he has already a family of eight children. In his public
government he is much beloved by his people; and although the
Persians are not inclined in conversation to spare the faults of their
superiors, of him I never heard an evil word. He has not indeed those
sanguinary propensities, which are almost naturally imbibed in the
possession of despotic power ; and where others cut off ears, slit noses,
and pierce eyes, he contents himself with the administration of the more
lenient bastinado.

Nasr Oallah Khan is appointed by the King to remit to the
court of Teheran any surplus revenue ; an office probably neither easy
to the Minister, nor acceptable to the Prince, whose immense and
splendid establishments exact a very liberal proportion of the whole
receipts of the province. In his actual service and pay the Prince has
only a force of one thousand cavalry, of which two hundred (the quota
furnished by the Baktiar tribe) form his body guard ; but in an emer-
gency he could sent to the war twenty thousand horsemen. His troops
provide their own arms and clothing, and they receive annually in pay
forty piastres, and a daily allowance of one maun (seven pounds and a
quarter) of barley, two mauns of straw, and a quarter of a maun of
wheat, except in spring when their horses feed on the new herbage.
They have further, each in his own country, for the maintenance of
their families, a certain allotment of land, which they till and sow, and
of which they reap the annual fruits. When a new levy is ordered,
the head of each tribe brings forward the number which the state has
required of him.

4th. At about one hour before sunset, we repaired to the house of

SHIRAZ.

Ill

the Minister, to partake of an entertainment which was given to the
Envoy. We had scarcely dismounted from our horses at the Minister's
gate, when the crowd, anxious to obtain admission, rushed forward, and
long impeded the passage of the suite ; until our Mehmanclar himself
commanded respect by administering a volley of blows with a stick on
the heads of the surrounding multitude. As soon as the Envoy entered
the court, (which appeared from the numbers already pressed into it,
to be the scene of the amusement), the Persian music struck up, and a
rope dancer, whose rope stood conspicuous in the centre, begun to
vault into the air.

Abdullah Khan, the Minister's Son, conducted us into the
presence of his father, where we soon ranged ourselves among a numer-
ous company of the Nobles of the place, who were invited to meet us.
Abdullah Khan, who is a man of about thirty, and a person of
much consequence at Shiraz, never once seated himself in the apart-
ment where his father sat, but, according to the Eastern customs of filial
reverence, stood at the door like a menial servant, or went about super-
intending the entertainments of the day. As soon as we were settled,
the amusements commenced ; and at the same moment the rope-dancer
vaulted, the dancing boys danced, the water-spouter spouted, the fire-
eater devoured fire, the singers sung, the musicians played on their
kamovnchas, and the drummers beat lustily on their drums. This
singular combination of noises, objects and attitudes, added to the
cries and murmurs of the crowd around, amused, yet almost dis-
tracted us.

The rope-dancer performed some feats, which really did credit to his
profession. He first walked over his rope with his balancing pole, then
vaulted on high ; he ascended the rope to a tree in an angle of forty-
five degrees ? but, as he was reaching the very extremity of the upper range
of the angle, he could proceed no further, and remained in an uncertain
position for the space of two minutes. He afterwards tied his hands to
a rope-ladder of three large steps ; and, first balancing his body by the

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SHIRAZ.

middle on the main line let fall the ladder and himself, and was only
brought up by the strength of his wrists thus fastened to their support.
He next put on a pair of high-heeled shoes, and paraded about again ;
then put his feet into two saucepans, and walked backwards and for-
wards. After this he suspended himself by his feet from the rope ; and,
taking a gun, deliberately loaded and primed it, and, in that pendant
position, took an aim at an egg (placed on the ground beneath him) and
put his ball through it. After this he carried on his back a child, whom
he contrived to suspend, with his own body besides, from the rope,
and thence placed in safety on the ground. His feats were numerous
(and as he was mounted on a rope much more elevated than those on
which such exploits are displayed in England), they were also propor-
tionably dangerous. A trip would have been his inevitable destruction.
He was dressed in a fantastical jacket, and wore a pair of breeches of
crimson satin, something like those of Europeans. The boys danced,
or rather paced the ground, snapping their fingers to keep time with the
music, jingling their small brass castanets, and uttering extraordinary
cries. To us all this was tiresome, but to the Persians it appeared very
clever. One of the boys having exerted himself in various difficult leaps,
at last took two kunjurs or daggers, one in each hand ; and with these,
springing forwards, and placing their points in the ground, turned
himself head over heels between them ; and again, in a second display,
turned himself over with a drawn sword in his mouth.

A negro appeared on the side of a basin of water (in which three
fountains were already playing), and, by a singular faculty which he
possessed of secreting liquids, managed to make himself a sort of
fourth fountain, by spouting water from his mouth. We closely ob-
served him : he drank two basins and a quarter of water, each holding
about four quarts, and he was five minutes spouting them out. Next
came an eater of fire : this man brought a large dish full of charcoal,
which he placed deliberately before him, and then, taking up the pieces,
conveyed them bit by bit successively into his mouth, and threw them

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113

out again when the fire was extinguished. He then took a piece, from
which he continued to blow the most brilliant sparks for more than half
an hour. The trick consists in putting in the mouth some cotton
dipped in the oil of Naptha, on which the pieces of charcoal are laid
and from which they derive the strength of their fire : now the flame of
this combustible is known to be little calid. Another man put into his
mouth two balls alternately, which burnt with a brilliant flame, and
which also were soaked in the same fluid.

The music was of the roughest kind. The performers were seated in
a row round the basin of water ; the band consisted of two men, who
played the kamounclw, a species of violin ; four, who beat the taru-
borin ; one, who thrummed the guitar ; one, who played on the spoons ;
and two who sung. The loudest in the concert were the songsters,
who, when they applied the whole force of their kings, drowned every
other instrument. The man with the spoons seemed to me the most
ingenious and least discordant of the whole band. He placed two
wooden spoons in a neat and peculiar manner betwixt the fingers of his
left hand, whilst he beat them with another spoon in his right.

All this continued till the twilight had fairly expired ; when there
commenced a display of fire-works on a larger scale than any that I
recollect to have seen in Europe. In the first place, the director of
the works caused to be thrown into the fountain before us a variety of
fires, which were fixed on square flat boards, and which bursting into
the most splendid streams and stars of flame, seemed to put the water
in one entire blaze. He then threw up some beautiful blue lights, and
finished the whole by discharging immense vollies of rockets which had
been fixed in stands, each of twenty rockets, in different parts of the
garden and particularly on the summits of the walls. Each stand ex-
ploded at once ; and at one time the greater part of all the rockets
were in the air at the same moment, and produced an effect grand
beyond the powers of description.

At the end of this exhibition, a band of choice musicians and songsters

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was introduced into the particular apartment where we were seated.
A player on the kamouncha really drew forth notes, which might have
done credit to the better instruments of the West: and the elastic man-
ner with which he passed his bow across the strings, convinced me that
he himself would have been an accomplished performer even among
those of Europe, if his ear had been tutored to the harmonies and deli-
cacies of our science. The notes of their guitar corresponded exactly
to those of our instrument. Another sung some of the odes of
Hafiz, accompanied by the kamouncha, and in a chorus by the
tamborins.

After this concert, some parts of which were extremely noisy and
some not unpleasant even to our ears, appeared from behind a curtain
a dirty-looking negro, dressed as a fakeer or beggar, with an artificial
hump, and with his face painted white. This character related facetious
stories, threw himself into droll attitudes, and sung humorous songs.
Amongst other things he was a mimic; and, when he undertook to ridi-
cule the inhabitants of Ispahan he put our Shiraz audience into ecsta-
cies of delight and laughter. He imitated the drawling manner of
speaking, and the sort of nonchalance so characteristic of the
Ispahaunees. The people of Shiraz, (who regard themselves as the
prime of Persians, and their language as the most pure, and their pro-
nunciation as the most correct), are never so well amused as Avhen the
people and the dialect of Ispahan are ridiculed. Those of Ispahan, on
the other hand, boast, and with much reason, of their superior clever-
ness and learning, though with these advantages indeed they are said
to mix roguery and low cunning. The exhibition finished by the sing-
ing of a boy, the most renowned of the vocal performers at Shiraz,
and one of the Prince's own band. His powers were great, descending
from the very highest to the very lowest notes ; and the tremulations of
his voice, in which the great acme of his art appeared to consist, were
continued so long and so violently, that his face was convulsed with
pain and exertion. In order to aid the modulations, he kept a piece of
paper in his hand, with which he did not cease to fan his mouth. When

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115

the concert was over, we collected our legs under us (which till this
time we had kept extended at ease) to make room for the sofras or
table-cloths, which were now spread before us. On these were first
placed trays of sweet viands, light sugared cakes, and sherbet of various
descriptions. After these, dishes of plain rice were put, each before
two guests ; then pillaus, and after them a succession and variety, which
would have sufficed ten companies of our number. On a very moderate
calculation there were two hundred dishes, exclusive of the sherbets.
All these were served up in bowls and dishes of fine china; and in the
bowls of. sherbet were placed the long spoons made of pear-tree, (which
I mentioned on a former occasion), and each of which contained about
the measure of six common table-spoons, and with these every guest
helped himself. The Persians bent themselves down to the dishes, and
ate in general most heartily and indiscriminately of every thing sweet
and sour, meat and fish, fruit and vegetable. They are very fond of ice,
which they eat constantly, and in great quantities, a taste which becomes
almost necessary to qualify the sweetmeats which they devour so pro-
fusely. The Minister Nask O all ah Khan had a bowl of common
ice constantly before him, which he kept eating when the other dishes
were carried away. They are equally fond of spices, and of every other
stimulant ; and highly recommended one of their sherbets, a composi-
sition of sugar, cinnamon, and other strong ingredients. As the Envoy
sat next to the Minister, and I next to the Envoy, we very frequently
shared the marks of his peculiar attention and politeness, which con-
sisted in large handfuls of certain favourite dishes. These he tore off
by main strength, and put before us ; sometimes a full grasp of lamb
mixed with a sauce of prunes, pistachio-nuts, and raisins ; at another
time, a whole partridge disguised by a rich brown sauce ; and then,
with the same hand, he scooped out a bit of melon, which he gave into
our palms, or a great piece of omelette thickly swimming in fat ingre-
dients. The dishes lie promiscuously before the guests, who all eat
without any particular notice of one another. The silence, indeed, with

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SHIRAZ.

which the whole is transacted is one of the most agreeable circumstances
of a Persian feast. There is no rattle of plates and knives and forks,
no confusion of lacquies, no drinking of healths, no disturbance of
carving, scarcely a. word is spoken, and all are intent on the business
before them. Their feasts are soon over> and, although it appears dif-
ficult to collect such an immense number of dishes, and to take them
away again without much confusion and much time, yet all is so well regu-
lated that every thing disappears as if by magic. The lacquies bring the
dishes in long trays called conchas, which are discharged in order, and
which are again taken up and earned away with equal facility. When
the whole is cleared, and the cloths rolled up, ewers and basins are
brought in, and every one washes his hand and mouth. Until the water
is presented it is ridiculous enough to see the right hand of every per-
son (which is covered with the complicated fragments of all the dishes)
placed in a certain position over his left arm : there is a fashion even in
this. The whole entertainment was now over, and we took our leaves
and returned home Such a fete costs a very considerable sum. Be-
sides ourselves, all the Envoy's numerous servants, and all the privates
of his body guard were invited to it, and eat and drank in different
apartments. The same dinner which had been put before us was after-
wards carried to them, and I understand that, even in the common do-
mestic life of a Persian, the profusion which is exhibited on his table
surprises the European stranger; and is explained only by the necessity
of feeding his numerous household, to whom all his dishes are passed,
after he has satisfied his own appetite.

5th. As we were at dinner on the following day, one of the Prince's
own feroshes brought a dish composed of eggs, &c. made up into a
species of omelette, with two small bowls of sherbet, and a plate of
powdered spices, which he announced: j as a present from the Prince
himself. These sort of attentions are frequent between friends in
Persia, and, at the moment of dinner, it seems that the Prince, who is
particularly fond of the dish, was anxious that the Envoy also should

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117

partake of it ; though at the time of receiving it, the Envoy suspected,
that it might have been the trick of some one who calculated on a more
valuable largess in return.

6th. A zeeafet or entertainment was given this evening to the
Envoy by Mirza Zaist Labadeen, Chief Secretary and Private
Minister to the Prince. This was so nearly a repetition of the
former display, that any description may well be spared. One thing
indeed may be remarked ; as soon as the Prime Minister came into the
room, he took the direction of the feast upon himself; and the master
of the house, the real donor, sunk into the character of a guest. This is
the case wherever the Minister goes, as he is supposed to be the master
of every thing, and to preside in every place, next after the Prince his
own immediate superior.

On the ?th, Jaffer Ati Khan, (the English Agent at Shirat)
Mr. Bruce and I, went by the Envoy s. order to. the Minister, to pro-
pose certain measures. We were introduced into the Bagfaa-VakeGl, a
garden belonging to the Prince, and situated contiguous to his palace
in the town. In the centre is a pleasure house called Koola-frangev,
(and built on the model of the one of the same name in the ]3agh~anJeh(m
Ncmah, on the outside of the city gates.) Here we conferred with the
Minister, and as, in quitting him, we were going out of the garden, we
chanced to meet the Prince himself, who asked us the common questions
of civility, and passed on. In the evening, the Prince invited the
Envoy to meet him on horseback at the Maidan, --and expressed a wish
to see the troop of cavalry go through some of its exercises and evolu-
tions. We accordingly proceeded, and, when we perceived the Prince*
we all dismounted from our horses for a moment, and when he waved
his hand, we all mounted again, and rode close up to him. His man-
ners and appearance were most elegant and prepossessing. He was
dressed most 'richly : his outer coat was of blue vd vet, which fitted
tight to his shape; on the shoulders, front pocket, and skirts, was W\
embroidery of pearl, occasionally (in . the ^different terminations of a
point or angle,) enlivened with a ruby, an emerald, or a topaz. Under

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SHIRAZ.

this was a waistcoat of pearl ; and here and there, hanging in a sort of
studied negligence, were strings of fine pearl. A dagger, at the head of
which blazed a large diamond, was in his girdle. The bridle of his
horse was inlaid in every part of the head with precious stones ; and a
large silver tassel hung under the jaws. The Prince was altogether a
very interesting figure.

Cornet Willock paraded his troop much to the Prince's satisfaction,
and in the interval his own men ran their horses up and down the
course, firing their muskets in various dextrous ways. Unfortunately
one of his cavaliers met with a very dangerous fall.

Ismael Beg, the young Georgian favourite, also shewed off his
horse. He carried the Prince's bow and arrows, which were placed on
each side of him, in quivers covered with black velvet and thickly
studded with pearls and precious stones. After this, the Prince ordered
his Russian prisoners, thirty in number, to draw up and go through
their exercise. These poor fellows, commanded by their ofHcer (who
goes by the name of Rooss Khan, or Russian Khan), went through every
thing that they could do, and even formed a hollow square. To all this
the Persians give the name of bazee or play. Nasr Oallah Khan,
the Minister, kept at a respectful distance, whilst the rest of the nobles
and chief men were stationed in a crowd much further off. The Prince
remained an isolated and unsocial being, never speaking but to com-
mand, never spoken to but to feel the servitude of others.

It is always the custom for the King and Princes to order their
visitors away, which they do, either by a nod of the head or a wave of
the hand. We received this kind of licence to depart, and returned to
town in the order in which we came out.

8th. The last and most splendid entertainment was given this even-
ing to the Envoy by our Mehmandar, Mahomed Zeky Khan. His
own house was not large enough to contain us and our numerous
attendants ; he received therefore the Prince's permission to give it in
that of Aga Besheer, the Queen's head Eunuch. The apartment,
into which we were introduced, was still more elegant than any which

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119

we had jet seen, and if it could have been transported to England,
would probably have excited universal admiration, and a new taste in
the interior decoration of rooms. Like almost all the public rooms or
dezvan khonSh of a Persian house, it was in shape a parallelogram, with
a recess formed by a Saracenic arch, in the centre of the superior line
of the figure. The ground of the wall was of a beautiful varnished
white, and richly painted in gold in ornaments of the most neat and in-
genious composition. The entablature, if it may be so called, was
inlaid glass placed in angular and prismatic positions, which reflected
a variety of beautiful lights and colours. The ceiling was all of the
same composition. Tn the arrhed reress was a chimney piece formed
in front by alternate layers of glass and painting. The whole side
fronting the arch was composed of windows, the frames of which opened
from the ground ; and, though of clumsy workmanship compared with
frames in England, yet aided by the richness of the painted glass inter-
mixed with the gilding of the wood-work, they filled up the space splen-
didly and symmetrically.

This fete corresponded in all it parts with the others that I have
described ; except that there was a greater variety of entertainments.
Besides the rope-dancer, water-spouter, dancing boys, and fire-eater, we
had an exhibition of wrestlers, a combat of rams, and a sanguinary
scene of a lion killing an ox. The wrestling was opened by two dwarfs,
about three feet and a half in height: one with a beard descending
to his girdle, with deformed arms and hands, but with strong and mus-
cular legs. The other, with bad legs, but with regular and well shaped
arms. Both had the appearance of those animals represented in my-
thological pictures as satyrs, or perhaps of the Asmodeus of Le Sage.
The figure with the beard was the victor, and fairly tossed his antago-
nist into an adjoining basin of water. The professional wrestlers suc-
ceeded ; the hero of whom threw and discomfited eight others, in most
rapid succession. In this the combat of rams resembled that of the
wrestlers : one bold and superb ram, belonging to the Prince, remained
the undisputed master of the field, for although a great number of his

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kind were brought to meet him, none dared to face him after tlve
first butt.

The scene of blood next begun. A poor solitary half-grown ox 'was
then produced, and had not long awaited his fate, when a young lion
was conducted before us by a man, who led him with a rope by the
neck. For some time he seated himself by the wall regardless of the
feast before him. At length, urged by the cries of his keepers, and by
the sight of the ox, which was taken close to him, he made a spring and
seized his victim on the back. The poor brute made some efforts to
get loose, but the lion kept fast hold, until he was dragged away by his
keepers. Both were again brought before, ns, when the ox fell under
a second attack of the lion. An order was at length given to cut the
throat of the ox, when the lion finished his repast by drinking heartily
of his blood. A very small cub of a lion, not larger than a water-
spaniel was carried out, and the vigour with which he attacked the ox,
was quite amusing. He fed upon him, after he was dead, with a relish
which showed how truly carniverous were his young propensities.
This bloody scene was pleasing to the Persian spectators in general,
.although I thought that I perceived some who sympathized ivith us for
the helplessness of the ox.

In the course of the morning the Prince's present to the Mission was
brought by Ismael Beg. It consisted of a sword and two horses to
the Envoy, and to each of the gentlemen kalaats, or dresses of gold
brocade, a sash, and a shawl. Our appearance, when we wore our
new dresses, which had not been made on purpose for us, was probably
very ridiculous. We put the rich brocade Persian vest over our
English clothes, having only taken off our coats : then wound the
brocade sash round our waists, and lastly, put our sliawls either over
our shoulders, or fastened them into our cocked hats. This, with our
red cloth stockings and green high-heeled shoes, completed the adjust-
ment, in which we appeared before the Prince. The morning of the
9th had been fixed for our parting visit ; dressed in these gifts with
which he had honoured us, we were introduced to the Prince in a room

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called the private audience, in the Bagh-a-Vakeel. On walking through
the garden we met one of his brothers, a little fellow about six years
old, and who could just totter under the weight of the brocades,
furs, and shawls with which he was hugely encumbered. Several
Khans and men of consequence were standing before him, in the same
attitudes of respect and humility, as they did before his elder brother,
and attending to all his little orders and whims, with as much obsequi-
ousness, as they would have shewn to a full-grown sovereign. It was
singular that no notice was taken of an inadvertence which we com-
mitted : the dresses which we had received were honours to which a
Persian looks forward through his whole life ; but as they happened
to be extremely inconvenient to us, we threw them off as soon as we
left the Prince's presence. An Englishman just invested with an Order,
would hardly so throw off the ribband at the gate of St. James's. In
strictness, the kalaat of Persia should be worn three days, as we after-
wards learnt, when again we had received a similar distinction at
Teheran, and treated it with similar disrespect.

Before we left Shiraz, the merchants were all displeased with the
Envoy, for they had been accustomed in former missions to sell im-
mense quantities of their goods at exorbitant prices ; while now all
their offers were refused, as most of the presents which were given by
Sir Harford in our progress, were made in coin. The amount of
those presents indeed was not always satisfactory to the receivers.

CHAP. VII.

SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

DEPARTURE FROM SHIRAZ — ZERGOON — BEND-EMIR, THE ANCIENT

ARAXES PLAIN OF MERDASHT — TOMBS AND SCULPTURES OF

NAKSHI RUSTAM— FIRE-TEMPLES — PERSEPOLIS — GENERAL VIEW
OF THE WHOLE— —PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION; STAIRCASE;
PORTALS; HALL OF COLUMNS — SCULPTURES AT NAKSHI RADJAB
—POPULAR TRADITIONS.

AT eleven o'clock on the morning of the 13th, the Envoy recom-
menced his journey towards Teheran. The Prime Minister, and the
Chief Secretary, Mahomed Hassan Khan (the commander of the
Karaguzloo tribe), the Prince's Lord Chamberlain, and Mahomed
Zeky Khan, our former Mehmandar, with Abdulla Khan, who
had succeeded to that office pro tempore, accompanied us about the
distance of a mile from Tengui All Acbar, and then all took their
formal leave, except our late and present Mehmandars.

At the distance of a quarter of a mile beyond the gate of the pass
departing from Shiraz, one of the most compact of distant views pre-
sented itself. As we saw it from an eminence, the foreground was
formed by the two bold acclivities, (which close into the pass and are
connected by the gate), and the interval in the distance is rilled up by

SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

123

part of Shiraz, the campagna and the mountains in the horizon. As
our tents and baggage were still considerably behind us, we stopt and
drank coffee at a hut, where is a reservoir of ice constructed by the
Prince on a plan which to us seemed simple and good. A deep trench
of about fifty paces in length, and fifteen in breadth, is cut into the
ground ; other dikes are cut transversely, which, as they fill with water,
are emptied into the reservoir. When this first layer of water is con-
gealed, another draught is made from the dikes, and thus the ice is ac-
cumulated. A wall is built the whole length of the reservoir to screen
the ice from the south wind which is here the hottest. We staid here
about two hours, in which time Captain Sutherland ascended the
highest point of the mountains to the west, and returned with the
most brilliant account of the view : Shiraz and its plain were at his
feet, the gardens and the whole delineation of the mountains and sur-
rounding lands, laid out as if on a map.

After we had quitted our late Mehmandars and their company,
and had been joined by their successor Mahomed Khan, we begun
to wind in the hills, and rode by the banks of the little stream of
Rocknabad, until we came to a station of Rahdars, which is called
Kalaat Poshoon, from its being the spot where the Prince puts on the
kalaats, with which the King is frequently pleased to honour him.
The country through which we passed, is hilly and open ; scarcely a
shrub enlivens the brown mountains, which here and there are varied
by the capriciousness of their stratification into forms as extravagant as
they are inhospitable. The source of the Rocknabad is about twelve
miles from Shiraz, into which its waters find their way, after meander-
ing in a variety of directions in their progress towards it. There was
nothing particularly interesting in the march of the day. Large flocks
of pigeons now and then flew over our heads, and the road here and
there was occasionally strewed with ruined castles and caravanserais*
which, though they bore a name, yet being uninhabited, are no longer
worthy to be marked in the topographical history of Persia. After we
had received the salute of a few miserable fusileers, had heard the reci-

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tative verses of one or two poor Mollahs, and had trampled over two
or three bottles of sugar-candy, we arrived at our encampment at
Zergoon.

Zergoon, when first seen, looks a respectable place : a mud wall sur-
rounds it ; but, as it was broken down in many places, it was not diffi-
cult to observe that the greater part of the houses within were mere
shells, and their inhabitants proportionally wretched. It is situated
close at the foot of a range of mountains at the southern extremity of
a small plain, which is of the finest soil, and towards the town not ill
cultivated. We calculated our march to have been thirteen miles from
our tents at the Bagh-a-V akeel at Shiraz, and on an average our route
lay North-East.

The night was interrupted by the disputes of the mule-drivers and
the bustle of feroshes. We quitted Zergoon at nine o'clock, and, at
the distance of about two miles, entered into the plain of the same
name (confounded with that of Merdasht) of a most delightful soil and
partially cultivated, which extends near fifteen miles East and West.
We proceeded three miles further, and crossing the river Bend-emir,
entered the real plain of Merdasht. The bridge is thrown over the
river immediately behind a projecting foot of the mountains; it is
called the Pool Khan, and has (besides two lesser arches, which in this
season were unoccupied by water) two principal arches, and another of
a second size, through which three the river runs. The Bend-emir is
the ancient Araxes, and runs in a general direction from North to
South : where we crossed it indeed, it was flowing from N. N. E. to S.W.
It does not fall into the sea at Cape Jasques, (now at least, as has been
said) though it still enters Kertnan. I am told that it goes to Corbal,
ten fursungs from Persepolis, a large place in the province of Kerman,
where its waters are received and kept up by a very considerable dam
called the Blind Emir, i. e. the Bund Emir Timoor, or the dam of
Tamerlane.* There are several Bunds at Corbal, and in the neigh-

* The Bend-emir or Araxes is said to fall into the large lake of Baktegian, near-
Darabgherd. R.

£>

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

125

bourhood, each raised by a King. In the bolook or district of Corbal,
there is a village called Sedeh Nokara Khoneh, about eight or nine
fursungs distant from Persepolis ; where, in the common story of Persia,
Jems heed kept his royal drums and trumpets: the noise of which,
when sounded there, reached his ears at Persepolis. According to the
reports, which we received from the people of the country, the whole
plain of Merdasht for many miles round is covered with interesting
monuments of antiquity, mostly taking their direction to the southward.

From the bridge to the extremity of the plain may be ten miles. At
two miles from our encampment, near the remains of Persepolis, we
turned to the left to visit the ruins and sculptures of Nakshi Rustam.
Although they appeared close to us, yet the great variety of the
streams (drains from the Bend-emir and another river) which have been
made to irrigate the country, obliged us to make a circuitous route of at
least four miles.

The tombs and sculptures at Nakshi Rustam are all contained in the
space of about two hundred yards, on the surface of steep and craggy
rocks, the fronts of which extend in a line from N. W. to S. E. On the
N. W. they terminate abruptly, and take an Eastward turn : and this
termination is marked by the shaft of a column six feet high, which
stands upon the eminence, and is of the very same stone as that on
which it rests ; though it has not been left in its present position by the
excavation of the adjacent parts, for I thrust a kunjur (a dagger) several
inches between it and the surface of the foundation rock ; in which
therefore there is obviously a socket to receive it. The top of the
rock (on which the sculptures at Nakshi Rustam are executed) is
levelled into a platform about twenty feet square: on this is an ele-
vated seat or throne; the ascent to which is by five steps, i. e. two
steps and a landing place, and then three more, I think however, that
I perceived the remains of another step to the landing place. The
throne itself is an oblong nine feet by six, and the whole rock is a fine
marble.

Nearly under this column is situated (see plate XV.) the first and

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

most northern piece of sculpture. It consists of two figures on horse-
back, and a third on foot. Chardin's description of this, as well as
of the other monuments, is sufficiently satisfactory ; and I will therefore
only mention where I differ from him. He says, that the size of the
horses is suited to that of their riders : now to me they seem to be by
far too small in proportion ; and the best proof of this is, that the riders'
feet nearly touch the ground. What he calls bridles of chains of iron
did not strike us as such. The whole furniture of the. horses is admir-
ably preserved, and I have endeavoured to draw it with the most
scrupulous accuracy. The bridle of the horse on the right is exactly
the same as those of the horses at Shapour, with numerous knobs or
buckles on the head-stall : that of the horse on the left is of another
species of ornament, yet also with many straps and buckles! Both
have a remarkable strap or piece of iron which reaches from the horse's
forehead all down the front part of the face, covers the lips, and is
fastened behind near the opening of the cheeks. The breast-plate of
the horse on the right is composed of large round plates linked together :
that of the horse on the left is ornamented with lions' heads. The
man behind the figure on the left, holds (not an umbrella, osChardin
mentions, but) a fly-flap, which is common to almost all the principal
figures at Persepolis. Each of these horsemen trample on a body ;
that under the figure on the right is more correct and well preserved,
than the other to the left. A Greek inscription is engraved on the chest
of the first horse, composed of seven lines, the three first of which are
illegible. Then nearly close under these lines are some characters,
which are extremely effaced, but which I have endeavoured to copy
exactly. (See the inscriptions, plate XXIX.) They are evidently the
same as those which I saw at Shapour. On the breast of the opposite
horse there is also a small but very effaced inscription in the same
characters.

The sculpture next to this is composed of nine figures ; five on the
right side, and three on the left, of a personage at full length, who stands
in the centre, holding a sword before him with both hands, and bear-

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127

ing a globe on his head. The figures to the left are beckoning as it
were to the others on the right. There is besides another curious
figure at full length, behind the rock close to the sculpture, but still
making part of the same piece.

More in the centre of the whole extent of rock, and nearly under
the base of a tomb, is a very spirited piece of sculpture, representing
the combat of two horsemen, who are in the very shock of the engage-
ment. (Plate XVI.) The figure on the left (as the spectator fronts
them) has an immense crovvii with three balls on the top of three pyra-
midical points. Another ball of the same sort is on his right shoulder ;
and another on the summit of his horse's head. On the full stretch of
his horse he presents his lance, which is seen to pass through the throat
of his adversary. A quiver hangs by his side, and a sort of armour
covers his middle, and the back part of his horse. A figure behind
him, apparently his standard-bearer, holds a kind of ensign, which is
a staff crossed at the top and ornamented with five balls. The re-
mainder is admirably executed, and represents the other horse thrown
backwards on his haunches from the shock of the first cavalier's onset,
and the spear of his rider broken. The helmet, with which the second
horseman's head is crowned, is more Grecian, than any which I saw
among the ruins ; and the whole, though much effaced, is executed
with better proportions and effect than any of the others.

After this I was delighted and surprised to find an exact copy,
though in a gigantic scale, of the subject at Shapour, with one person in
a Roman dress on his knees before the horse's head, and another
whose hands are seized by the rider. Under the horse's belly is a long
Greek inscription, of which I could make out only a few characters.
There are, besides, other characters similar to those at Shapour, of which
the annexed is a specimen. (See plate XXIX.)

Next to this, is a sculpture containing three figures : the one in the
middle has a crown and globe on his head ; his right hand is extended
towards a female figure on his left, and they both grasp a ring. The

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

third figure, which stands behind the male one in the middle, is defaced
and is apparently only an attendant.

Nearly adjoining, is a much mutilated representation of a combat
between two heroes on horseback. (Plate XVII.) The first, clad in
armour with a globe on his head, makes a desperate thrust with his
lance (his horse being at its greatest stretch) at the other figure, whose
horse is in the act of rearing, and who holds his lance, as if he were
preparing to receive his antagonist. The figure with a globe on his
head tramples a man under his horse's feet.

The tombs are four in number. Captain Sutherland with some
difficulty entered into the one farthest to the northward. A Persian
mounted first, and then let down a shawl ; by which, as by a rope,
Captain Sutherland helped himself up. A platform is cut into the
rock before the tomb, which he entered through a small door, and
found a chamber thirty-seven feet in length, and nine and a half in
height : facing him were three arched recesses, in which the bodies of
the deceased had probably been deposited.

In following the abrupt turn to the East, which the rock of the
sculptures takes, we come to two square fire-altars, situated on a pro-
jecting mass and placed upon one base. They are six feet in height,
and one side of the square is three feet. On the summit of each is a
square hole. Further on in the recess of the mountain, are twenty
holes or windows of different sizes, but all of the same pattern, with an
inscription over them. The characters, according to our observation,
differed from all that we found in any of the various remains which we
visited. Facing nearly the middle of the sculptured rocks, stands an
ancient fire- temple. It is a square building, one side of which measures
twenty-four feet. It is of white marble and of admirable masonry.
In front there is a door; open indeed only at the top, and which
appears to have been opened thus far by force, for all the lower stones
are mutilated. The inside exhibited signs of fire. On each side, ex-
cept that on which the door is placed, are four apertures : they seem to

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129

have been scarcely intended to admit light ; as (at this day, at least)
they are each closely fitted with a stone. A small niche is over the door.
A cornice, enriched with dentils, passes around the summit; and in the
lines, where the stones have been fitted, oblong perpendicular incisions
are made at regular intervals. The people call it a pigeon-house. The
plain is covered with the wild liquorice ; and we plucked some of re-
freshing taste on the banks of a stream, which (about a mile from the
sculptures and tombs) turns a mill on the left of our encampment. We
started snipes and ducks from the Rood-Khon6h-Sewund, which runs
into the plain from the northward.

As we had still two hours of daylight before us, we rode to Perse*
polls, and took a cursory view of the ruins. Our first, and indeed
lasting impressions were astonishment at the immensity, and admira-
tion at the beauties of the fabric. Although there was no tiling, either
in the architecture of the buildings, or in the sculptures and reliefs on
the rocks, which could bear a critical comparison with the delicate pro-
portions and perfect statuary of the Greeks, yet, without trying Perse-
polls by a standard to which it never was amenable, we yielded at once
to emotions the most lively and the most enraptured.

At the distance of about five miles is a conspicuous hill, on the top
of which, and visible to the eye from Persepolis, are the remains of a
fortress. This hill is now called Istakhar, and is quite distinct from
Persepolis. Persepolis itself is commonly styled by the people of the
country " Takht Jemsheed" or the throne of Jem she ed : it is also
called " Chehel Miliar" or the Forty Pillars. Le Brun has given a
drawing of this hill of Istakhar ; and the original must strike every
traveller the moment he enters the plain of Merdasht, as it has all the
appearance of having been much fashioned by the hand of man.

Jan. 15th. After reading prayers to our society, I hastened to
the ruins. I went on this principle, that I would endeavour to
draw and ascertain all that former travellers had omitted; and for
that purpose I took Chardin and Le Brun in my hand, that
JL might complete all that I found wanting in their views and

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notices. Finding, however, that they differed from each other (and
one of course therefore from the reality) in many essential points, 1
thought that an entire description of the ruins in their present state
would answer my purpose better than a partial and unconnected ac-
count, referring only to the mistakes or omissions of others.

The most striking feature, on a first approach, is the staircase and
its surrounding walls. Two grand flights, which face each other, lead
to the principal platform. To the right is an immense wall of the finest
masonry, and of the most massive stones : to the left are other walls
equally well built, but not so imposing. On arriving at the summit of
the staircase, the first objects, which present themselves directly facing
the platform, are four vast portals and two columns. Two portals first,
then the columns, and then two portals again. On the front of each
are represented in basso-relievo figures of animals, which, for want of a
better name, we have called sphinxes. The two sphinxes on the first
portals face outwardly, i. e. towards the plain and the front of the build-
ing. The two others, on the second portals, face inwardly, i. e. towards
the mountain. From the first (to the right, on a straight line) at the
distance of fifty-four paces, is a staircase of thirty steps, the sides of
which are ornamented with bas-reliefs, originally in three rows, but now
partly reduced by the accumulation of earth beneath, and by mutila-
tion above. This staircase leads to the principal compartment of the
whole ruins, which may be called a small plain, thickly studded with
columns, sixteen of which are now erect. Having crossed this plain,
on an eminence are numerous stupendous remains of frames, both of
windows and doors, formed by blocks of marble of sizes most magni-
ficent. These frames are ranged in a square, and indicate an apart-
ment the most royal that can be conceived. On each side of the frames
are sculptured figures, and the marble still retains a polish which, in its
original state, must have vied with the finest mirrors. On each corner
of this room are pedestals, of an elevation much more considerable
than the surrounding frames ; one is formed of a single block of marble.
The front of this apartment seems to have been to the S. W. for we

SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

131

*aw few marks of masonry on that exposure, and observed, that the
base of that side of it was richly sculptured and ornamented. This
front opens upon a square platform, on which no building appears to
have been raised. But on the side opposite to the room which I have
just mentioned, there is the same appearance of a corresponding apart>
ment, although nothing but the bases of some small columns and the
square of its floor attest it to have been such. The interval between
these two rooms (on those angles which are the furthest distant from
the grand front of the building) is filled up by the base of a sculpture
similar to the bases of the two rooms ; excepting that the centre of it
is occupied by a small flight of steps. Behind, and contiguous to these
ruins, are the remains of another square room, surrounded on all it*
sides by frames of doors and windows. On the floor are the bases of
columns : from the order in which they appeared to me to have stood*
they formed six rows, each of six columns. A staircase cut into an
immense mass of rock (and from its small dimensions, probably the
escalier derobS of the palace) leads into the lesser and enclosed plain
below. Towards the plain are also three smaller rooms, or rather one
room and the bases of two closets. Every thing on this part of the
building indicates rooms of rest or retirement.

In the rear of the whole of these remains, are the beds of aqueducts
which are cut into the solid rock. They met us in every part of the
building ; and are probably therefore as extensive in their course, as
they are magnificent in construction. The great aqueduct is to be
discovered among a confused heap of stones, not far behind the build-
ings (which I have been describing) on this quarter of the palace, and
almost adjoining to a ruined staircase. We descended into its bed,
which in some places is cut ten feet into the rock. This bed leads East
and West ; to the Eastward its descent is rapid about twenty-five paces ;
it there narrows, so that we could only crawl through it ; and again it
enlarges, so that a man of common height may stand upright in it. It
terminates by an abrupt rock.

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

Proceeding from this towards the mountains, (situated in the rear of
the great hall of columns) stand the remains of a magnificent room.
Here are still left walls, frames and porticoes, the sides of which are
thickly ornamented with bas-reliefs of a variety of compositions. This
hall is a perfect square. To the right of this, and further to the south-
ward are more fragments, the walls and component parts apparently of
another room. To the left of this, and therefore to the northward of
the building, are the remains of a portal, on which are to be traced the
features of a sphinx. Still towards the north, in a separate collection,
is the ruin of a column, which, from the fragments about it, must have
supported a sphinx. In a recess of the mountain to the northward, is
a portico. Almost in a line with the centre of the hall of columns, on
the surface of the mountain is a tomb. To the southward of that is
another, in like manner on the mountain's surface ; between both (and
just on that point where the ascent from the plain commences) is a re-
servoir of water.

These constitute the sum of the principal objects among the ruins of
Persepolis, some of which I will now endeavour to describe in more
detail. The grand staircase consists of a Northern and a Southern
ascent, which spring from the plain at the distance of forty-six feet from
each other. Each again is divided into two flights ; the first, termi-
nated by a magnificent platform, contains fifty-four steps on a base of
sixty-six feet six inches, measured from the first step to a perpendicular
dropt from the highest at the landing place : the second, to the extreme
summit of the whole, consists of forty-eight steps on a base of forty-six
feet eight inches. Each step is in breadth twenty-six feet six inehes,
and in height three inches and a half. So easy therefore is the ascent,
that the people of the country always mount it on horseback. The
platform, where the two grand divisions meet, is thirty-four feet from
the ground, and in length seventy. From the front of this platform to
the portals behind is likewise seventy feet.

The portals arc composed of immense oblong blocks of marble;

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133

their length is twenty-four feet six inches, breadth five feet, and distance
from one another thirteen feet. The two first are faced by sphinxes ;
the remaining parts of whose bodies are delineated in a basso-relievo on
the interior surface of the portal. In passing through these, the next
objects before the more distant portals are two columns, but (as
there is a sufficient space for two others, and as the symmetry would
be defective without such an arrangement) I presume that the original
structure was completed by four columns. The second portals corres-
pond in size with the former, but differ from them not only in present-
ing their fronts towards the mountain, but in the subject of the
sculptures with which they are adorned. The animals on the two
first portals are elevated on a base. From the contour of the mutila-
tion, the heads appear to have been similar to those of horses, and their
feet have hoofs ; on their legs and haunches the veins and muscles are
strongly marked. Their necks, chests, shoulders, and backs, are en-
crustated with ornaments of roses and beads.

The sphinxes on the second portals appear to have had human
heads, with crowned ornaments, under which are collected massive
curls, and other decorations of a head-dress, which seems to have
been a favourite fashion among the ancient Persians. Their wings are
worked with great art and labour, and extend from their shoulders to
the very summit of the wall. The intention of the sculptor is evidently,
that these figures (emblematical perhaps of power and strength) should
appear to bear on their backs the mass of the portico, including not
only the block immediately above each, but the covering also, which,
though now lost, certainly in the original state of the palace, connected
the two sides and roofed the entrance. In these, as in the first
portals, the faces of the animals form the fronts, and the bulk of their
bodies, (called forth to a certain extent by the basso-relievo on the
sides) is supposed to constitute the substance of the walls.

Under the carcase of the first sphinx on the right, are carved,
scratched, and painted the names of many travellers ; and amongst others
we discovered those of Le Brun, Mandeesloe, and ^TiEBum*,

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

Niebu Hit's name is written in red chalk, and seems to have been
done but yesterday.

A square reservoir of water, broken in many places, yet still ap-
pearing to have been of one single block, was in the space, between
the portals and the staircase which led to the grand hall of columns.
The breadth of that staircase is fifteen feet four inches. It has two
corresponding flights, the front of which, though now much mutilated,
was originally highly carved and ornamented with figures in bass-
relief. The stones which support the terrace of the columns are all
carved in the same style, and are as perfect as when Le Brun made
his drawings. On comparing indeed his designs with the originals, I
found that he had given to some of the figures a mutilation which does
not exist ; for I discovered on a close inspection many interesting
details of dress, posture, and character, which are omitted in his
plates. One great defect pervades this part of his collection ; in order
to elucidate by the human form the comparative dimensions of the
buildings, he has introduced figures so small, that, measured by them
as a standard, the actual size of the objects represented would be three
times their real magnitude. In fact, a man who stands close to the
sculptured wall touches the summit with his chin, though the figures
in the drawings of Le Brun would not reach halfway.

Immediately on ascending this staircase, stands a single column,
but on closer observation I counted the bases (or spots at least where
once bases were) of eleven more columns of two rows ; forming, with
the first, six in each row. They are quite distinct from the great cluster
in the centre of the hall, and were therefore probably a grand en-
trance to it.

Passing forwards through this double range, we observed large blocks
of stone, placed at symmetrical distances (to correspond with the
arrangement of the columns at the entrance, and those in the centre),
and forming, probably, the bases of sphinxes or other colossal figures.
Having taken some pains to ascertain the real plan and the original
number of the columns in the great hall, I came to the following con-

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135

elusions: I observed, in the first place, that there were two orders of
columns, distinct in their capitals as well as in their height, and that,
of the highest, two rows were severally placed at the E. and W. extre-
mities of the hall.

Between these and the mass of columns of less height and a dif-
ferent capital is the space on either side of one row, in which,
however, no trace whatever of bases exists, and through which run
the channels of aqueducts. The remainder in the centre consists of
Six columns in front, and composes with the four exterior rows a
line of ten columns ; each row contains in depth six bases, forming,
with the twelve at the entrance, a grand total of seventy-two. On
drawing out a plan of this arrangement, I find that it is symmetrical in
all its points, and in every way in which I can view it satisfies my ima-
gination; but, on comparing it with that laid down by Niebuhr,
my own conceptions have accorded so exactly with those of that great
traveller on this, (as well as on the ichnography of the general remains)
that the introduction of my sketch becomes unnecessary.

On one of the highest columns is the remains of the sphinx, so com-
mon in all the ornaments at Persepolis ; and I could distinguish on the
summit of every one a something quite unconnected with the capitals.
The high columns have, strictly speaking, no capitals whatever, being
each a long shaft to the very summit, on which the sphinx rests. The
capitals of the lesser columns are of a complicated order, composed of
many pieces. I marked three distinct species of base. The shafts are
fluted in the Doric manner, but the flutes are more closely fitted toge-
ther. Their circumference is sixteen feet seven inches. Some of their
bases have a square plinth, the side of one of which I measured, and
found it to be seven feet ; the diameter of the base was five feet four
inches, diameter of columns four feet two inches, distance from centre
of base to the next centre twenty-eight feet. To the Eastward of one
of these, and close at the foot of one of the highest columns, are the
fragments of an immense figure. The head and part of the fore-legs I
could easily trace ; the head appeared to me more like that of a Uos

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

than of any other animal, and the legs confirmed this supposition ; as
it has claws so placed, as to indicate that the posture of the figure was
couchant.

The grand collection of porticoes, walls, and other component parts
of a magnificent hall, are situated behind the columns, at the distance
perhaps of fifty paces, and are arranged in a square.

On the interior sides of the porticoes or door frames, are many
sculptured figures, which have been drawn with accuracy by Le
Brun. They represent the state and magnificence of a King, seated
in a high chair with his feet resting on a footstool.

To the north of these remains, is the frame of what was once a por-
tico, and where the outlines of a sphinx are to be traced among the
rude and stupendous masses of stone. Further on, nearly on the same
line and bearing, is the head of a horse, part of which is buried in the
ground. It is ornamented like the remains of that which we call the
sphinx on the great portals, and is certainly the horse's head, which
Le Brun drew, declaring that he could not discover the part to which
it had belonged. Close to it, however, are the remains of an immense
column, eight feet in diameter ; the different parts of the shaft have
fallen in a direct line with this head, and obviously formed with it one
connected piece in the original structure, in which probably the frag-
ment on the ground surmounted the capital, as the sphinx still crowns
some of the remaining columns.

In the time of Mandelsloe, (who visited Persepolis 27th January,
1638) the number of columns erect was nineteen : in a letter indeed
to Olearius, (written from Madagascar on the 12th of July, 1639,
and published by his correspondent) he states, that thirty remained ;
but, as he does not specify their position, he might have included those
lying on the ground, and at any rate he was writing a private letter,
from memory, in a distant country, at the interval of a year and a
half. His own authority therefore in his book is a better evidence of
the fact; and as he there omits another and much more curious
circumstance, which he had asserted in the same letter, the value of

■

SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

137

that document becomes still more suspicious. Speaking of the cele-
brated inscriptions at Persepolis, he says, " on voit aussi plusieurs
" caracteres anciens mais fort bien marques, et conservant une partie
" de Tor, dont ils ont etc remplis." Sir Thomas Herbert also, how-
ever, mentions that the letters at Persepolis were gilt.

17th. On quitting Persepolis, I left our party in order to examine
a ruined building on the plains, which at a distance is generally pointed
out as a demolished caravanserai. I passed the stream of the Rood
KhonSh Sewund to the North, nearly where the road takes a N. E.
direction, and came to a fine mass of stone, thirty-seven feet four
inches square, which appears to have formed the base of some build-
ing. It is composed of two layers of marble blocks, the lower range
of which extends about two feet beyond the line of the upper. The
largest blocks, according to my measurement, are ten feet four
inches in length, four feet four in depth, and three feet four in breadth ;
all still retain a moulding, and traces here and there of masonry which
must have connected them with others. The whole building is filled
up in the middle by a black marble, and in its N. E. angle one stone
is raised higher than the rest. In the same angle, is a channel cut, as
if something had been fitted into it. I took the following bearings :
foot of the rocks of Nakshi Rusta?n, N. 10 W. two miles ; foot of
the mountain of Persepolis, S. two miles : our encampment S. 20 W.
two miles; road to Ispahan, N. 80 E.

I was called from this spot by a Chatter sent by the Envoy to
conduct me to some sculptures, which he had himself seen, (about
four miles from the place on the same mountain of Persepolis,) by the
side of the road to Ispahan. I found them indeed worthy of the
minutest investigation, as no preceding traveller has described them
with any sufficient accuracy. They are situated in a recess of the
mountain, formed by projecting and picturesque rocks. The sculpture
facing the road is composed of seven colossal figures and two small
ones. (Plate XIX.) The two principal characters are placed in the
centre ; the one to the left is the same (not in position indeed, but in

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

general circumstance) as that which we had so often seen represented
at Shapour and Nakshi Rustam. He has the distinguishing globe on
his head, and offers a ring to the opposite figure ; who, seizing it with
his right hand, holds a staff or club in his left. Behind the personage
with the globe, are two figures, one of whom, with a young and
pleasing face holds the fan, the customary ensign of dignity : and the
other, with hard and marked features, and a beard, rests on the pom-
mel of his sword with one hand, and beckons with the other. Behind
the chief on the right, are two figures, which from the feminine
cast of their countenances appear to be women ; one wears an
extraordinary cap, and the other, whose hair falls in ringlets on
her shoulders, makes an expressive motion with her right hand, as if
she were saying, " Be silent." Between the two principal figures, are
introduced two very diminished beings, who do not reach higher than
the knees of their colossal companions. In dress they differ mate-
rially from each other, and one holds a long staff. To the left, on
a fragment of the rock, is the bust of a figure, who also holds his
hand in a beckoning and significant posture. The largest of these
figures I reckoned to be ten feet in height ; the small ones two feet
eight inches. The whole of this is so much disfigured, that it is diffi-
cult to ascertain its various and singular details.

In the same recess, and to the left of this sculptured rock, forming
an angle with it, is another monument in a much higher state of
preservation ; parts of it indeed have suffered so little, that they appear
to be fresh at this day from the chissel. (Plate XX.) The same
royal personage, so often represented with a globe on his head,
and seated on horseback, here forms the principal character of the
groupe. His face, indeed, has been completely destroyed by the
Mahomedans, but the ornaments of his person and those of his
horse, (more profusely bestowed on both, than on any of the similar
figures which we had seen) are likewise more accurately preserved.
They merit a particular description ; because as the composition was
probably designed to represent the King in his greatest state, every part

N£

SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

139

of his dress is distinctly delineated. I assign this subject to the sculp-
ture, because no other personage of rival dignity appears in the piece ;
and because the attitude of the chief announces parade and command ;
for he presents a full face to the spectator, and his right hand, though
now much mutilated, still rests on his side to indicate his ease and hi&
independence. Nine figures, of which the first is nine feet high, wait
behind him ; and, from the marks of respect in which they stand, can
be attendants only on his grandeur. On each side of his head swells
an immense circumference of curls ; he wears an embossed necklace,
which falls low on his breast, and is therefore, perhaps, rather the upper
termination of his garment ; but its counterpart, an ornament of the
same description round the waist, is certainly a girdle. His cloak is
fastened on his left breast by two massive clasps. A rich belt is car-
ried from his right shoulder to his left hip, across an under garment,
which, from the extreme delicacy of its folds, appears to be formed of
a very fine cloth or muslin. The drapery of some loose trowsers,
which cover his legs down to the very ancles, displays equal delicacy,
and is probably, therefore, of the same texture. From the ancles a
sort of bandage extends itself in flowing folds, and adds a rich finish
to the whole. On the thigh there appears to hang a dagger. The horse
is splendidly accoutred with chains of a circular ornament : his length,
from the breast to the tail, is seven feet two inches ; and on the chest is
a Greek inscription, of which the letters are about an inch in height,
and correspond in form with those of the latter empire.

Opposite to this sculpture, in the same recess and on the right of the
first, is another, containing the same two figures on horseback, holding
a ring, which we had seen at Shapour and at Nakshi Rustam. On the
general merit of these remains, I may say, that they are superior to
those at Nakshi Rustam, and equal to those at Shapour.

When I had sketched these monuments, and completed my observa-
tions, I hastened to join my party, who were then considerably ad-
vanced. A man who filled some station about the camp joined me.

t 2

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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS.

He asked my opinion on the probable design of these sculptures, and
when I had told him my own conceptions, he assured me, that the
royal personage here also was Rust am ; and when I reminded him that
their own traditional King, Jemsheed, might possibly be the hero,
he replied in the true spirit of a system, " Jemsheed was but the
" slave of Rust am." Of the figures grasping the ring, one again
(according to the same theory) was Rust am, in the act of proving his
strength, by wrenching it from the other's hand.

CHAP. VIII.

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

JEMSHEED S HAREM — PASS THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS — MESJED
MADRE SULEIMAN; DOUBTS ON THE TOMB OF CYRUS — MOORGH-

AUB — DIFFICULTIES OF THE PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA STORM

LETTER FROM THE KING CASTLE OF BAHRAM RUINED

VILLAGES OVER THE COUNTRY — YEZDIKHaUST — CARAVANSERAI

AT MAXHOUD BEGGY KOMESHAHJ RUINS THE ENVOY AND THE

GOVERNOR MAYAR; CARAVANSERAI QUARRELS BETWEEN

THE PEOPLE OF IRAK AND FARS.

Jan. 17. -AS we were quitting the environs of Persepolis, and pro-
ceeding towards Ispahan, we saw on an eminence on the left of the
road (which now bore north-westerly) a single column erect, and some
fragments of stones and masonry adjoining. They were situated in
the centre of an extensive spot, which, from the configuration of the
land around, in elevated terraces and mounds, appeared an artificial
enclosure: and, as my Persian companion hinted, might be the site of
a fortification or a castle. The wall, indeed, in many parts could be
traced on the summit of the mounds. On arriving at the ruins, I dis-
covered them to consist of a solitary pillar, with a double-headed
sphinx for its capital, besides, strewed on the ground, a great quantity

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PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

of shafts, bases, and capitals of the same dimensions as the upright
column, and all, together with it, of the same description as those at
Persepolis. Several large blocks are arranged about, as the fragments
of some building. The column is fluted like the Doric, but with lines
more closely connected : it is one foot eight inches in diameter at the
bottom, and six inches less at the top: the height is a little above
seventeen feet ; and the base, including a tore next the shaft, is two
feet more. The legs and bodies of the sphinxes are in two separate
blocks. The largest of the adjacent blocks erect is seven feet two inches
broad, and eleven feet eight inches high. Nakshi Rust am bore N. 50.
W. from this place. A little further on is the ruin of a large pillar not
fluted, and the fragments of a sphinx which certainly had been the
capital. These remains, according to my companion's tradition, were
the site of Jemsheed's harem.

We returned to the road which led through a dilapidated but massy
gate, situated at the extremity of the projecting foot of the mountains.
In the centre of the road are three stones ; that in the middle is a broken
column, and the two between which it stands are of a columnar form.
It has, probably, been a beautiful object. The rocks to the left (a
marble of the same kind as that at Nakshi Rustam) bear evident marks
of having been worked and excavated. The road led us over a soil, as
fine as that of the plain of Merdasht, watered by the Rood Kho?i6h
Sewund. Having reached the extremity of that range, on the Western
point of which are the sculptures of Nakshi Rustam, we turned to the
left at a village called Seidoun. At the foot of an abrupt part of the
mountain on the right, but still at a considerable ascent from the plain,
is situated the village of Sewund. Our encampment was below, near
the banks of the stream of that name. The snipes, ducks, herons,
and bitterns from these quarters made an admirable addition to the
luxury of our table. The march of this day was called three fur-
sungs, which we computed at thirteen miles.

18th. We continued our journey along the banks with a North wind
fresh in our faces, and crossed the river about half a mile from our

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

143

encampment. We then turned an abrupt promontory of the high
land on the right, and, for the remainder of the march, travelled
nearly due East, between mountains whose brown and arid sides pre-
sented nothing to cheer or enliven the way. As we approached
Kemeen (a distance of fifteen miles from Sewund) we were greeted by
all the inhabitants of the village, who exhausted their whole ingenuity
to do honour to the Envoy. They fired frequent vollies, created an
immense dust, broke vases of sugar, beat drums, blew trumpets, and
themselves made loud and shrill shrieks. In return for all this, hand-
fuls of money were thrown among them. Among the many per-
formers was a lad who preceded us, twirling a stick about with great
agility between his fingers ; in this exercise he persevered so intently,
regardless of all the pressure of the animals and the crowd, that at
length the nose of the Envoy's horse received the full force of his art.
The Derveish of the Hqfizeea overtook us here to ask the present which
had been promised to him. As he had been empowered to receive it at
Shiraz, the Envoy conceived that his errand was a fraud, and dis-
missed him therefore, paying his expences back, with an order for the
sum if it should not have been already paid.

19th. An easterly breeze, which sprung up this morning, rendered
it extremely cold, and depressed the thermometer to 30°. We travelled
between the bases of two abrupt chains of mountains, for about two
miles against the wind; when we took a sudden direction to the
North, in which we continued generally until we came to Moorgh-aub,
a distance of fourteen miles, according to our reckoning. The pass
through the mountains, in a military point of view, presents most
admirable means of impeding the progress of an enemy. At the
distance of two miles from Moorgh-aub, I turned on the left from the
poad, to examine some ruins which I had noticed. Proceeding over
the ploughed fields, which nearly overspread the whole of tliis plain, I
came to the bed of a river lying in a North and South direction, and on
its banks a village called Meshed Omoun. There is here a fort, and a
few low houses, in. which females only were left, as all the men liad

144

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

gone out to greet the Envoy, by the discharge of their matchlocks*
About a mile further are situated the collective ruins, called by the
people of the country Mesjid MadrS Suleiman, the tomb of the mother
of Solomon. The first object is a pillar erect, a plain shaft without a
capital ten feet five inches in circumference. Near it are three pilasters,
the fronts of which are excavated in deep niches, and the sides
inscribed with the following characters. (See plate XXIX.) From the
pieces of masonry around, the pilasters appeared to have enclosed a
hall ; the interior of which was decorated with columns, but I resigned
the hope of ascertaining the plan of its original form, when I saw two
similar masses ; one, at the distance of one hundred and fifty yards,
with a corresponding inscription ; and the intermediate space (and
indeed the whole plain) strewed with the fragments of marbles.

Having sketched these objects, I continued my way along the plain
to the West, towards two buildings; which, at a distance indeed, ap-
peared scarcely worthy of notice, but which on a nearer inspection
proved full of interest. The first is a ruined building of Mahomedan
construction, which is now turned into a caravanserai. The door was
once arched, and on the architrave are the remains of a fine Arabic
inscription.

The other is a building of a form so extraordinary that the people
of the country often call it the court of the deevis or devil. It rests
upon a square base of large blocks of marble, which rise in seven
layers pyramidically. It is in form a parallelogram ; the lowest range
of the foundation is forty-three by thirty-seven feet ; and the edifice
itself, which crowns the summit, diminishes to twenty-one by sixteen
feet five inches. It is covered by a shelving roof built of the same
massy stone as its base and sides, which are all fixed together by
clamps of iron, and which on a general view correspond all with the
measure of one at the base, (fourteen feet eight inches in length, five
feet in depth, and three feet six inches in breadth.) I was not suffered
to enter ; and through a fissure in the door I could perceive nothing
within but a small chamber blackened as it appeared by smoke.

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

145

Around it, besides a great profusion of broken marbles, are the shafts
of fourteen columns, once perhaps a colonnade, but now arranged in the
square wall of mud which surrounds the whole remains. To the
present day all the space within the enclosure is a place of burial, and
is covered indeed with modern tomb-stones. On every part of the
monument itself are carved inscriptions, which attest the reverence of
its visitors ; but there is no vestige of any of the characters of ancient
Persia or even of the older Arabic. The key is kept by women, and
none but females are permitted to enter. The people generally regard
it as the monument of the mother of Solomon, and still connect some
efficacy with the name ; for they point out near the spot a certain
water to which those who may have received the bite of a mad dog
resort, and by which, if drank within thirty days, the evil effects of the
wound are obviated. In eastern story almost every thing wonderful is
attached to the Solomon of Scripture: the King however, to whose
mother this tomb is said to be raised, is less incredibly, (as the Carme-
lites of Shiraz suggested to Mandelsloe,) Shah Soleiman, the
fourteenth Caliph of the race of All But though this supposition is
more probable than that it is the monument of Bathsheba, it is not
to my mind satisfactory, as it differs totally from all the tombs of
Mahomedan saints which I have ever seen in Persia, Asia Minor,
or Turkey. [Plate XXL]

If the position of the place had corresponded with the site of
Passagardce as well as the form of this structure accords with the
description of the tomb of Cyrus near that city, I should have been
tempted to assign to the present building so illustrious an origin. That
tomb was raised in a grove ; it was a small edifice covered with an
arched roof of stone, and its entrance was so narrow that the slenderest
man could scarcely pass through : it rested on a quadrangular base of
a single stone, and contained the celebrated inscription, " mortals,
"I am Cyrus, son of Cambyses, founder of the Persian monarchy,
" and Sovereign of Asia, grudge me not therefore this monument"

146

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

That the plain around Mesjed Madre Suleiman was the site of a great
city, is proved by the ruins with which it is strewed ; and that this
city was of the same general antiquity as Persepolis may be inferred
from the existence of a similar character in the inscriptions on the
remains of both, though this particular edifice does not happen to
display that internal evidence of a contemporaneous date. A grove
would naturally have disappeared in modern Persia; the structures
correspond in size ; the triangular roof of that which I visited might be
called arched in an age when the true semi-circular arch was probably
unknown ; the door was so narrow, that, if I had been allowed to
make the attempt, I could scarcely have forced myself through it ; and
those who kept the key affirmed that the only object within was an
immense stone, which might be " the base of a single piece" described
by Are i an ; but as he was repeating the account of another, the
difference is of little consequence, if it exists. I suspect however, as
many of the buildings at Persepolis are so put together that they might
once have seemed one vast block, that the present structure might
also at one time have possessed a similar appearance. The eternity
of his monument indeed, which Cyrus contemplated by fixing it on
one enormous stone, would be equally attained by the construction of
this fabric, which seems destined to survive the revolutions of ages.
And in the lapse of two thousand four hundred years, the absence of
an inscription on Mesjed Madre Suleiman would not be a decisive
evidence against its identity with the tomb of Cyrtis.

I retraced my steps towards the column and pilasters, and passing to
the left of them, proceeded to a ruin, probably of one of those buildings
which we call fire-temples, and corresponding at least exactly in
dimensions, structure, and ornament with that at Nakshi Rustam. Its
door opened to the north. On an adjacent hill to the east, at the dist-
ance of about three hundred yards, are the remains of a fort erected
with the same stupendous materials, as the works on the plain. The
blocks are all of white marble, and bear the finest polish. From this

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

147

height our encampment at Moorgh-aub bore N. 55 E. Having
descended again into the plain, crossed the beds of numerous Kanauts,
and started several covies of partridges ; I reached my tent highly con-
tented with the unexpected gleanings of the day.

Moorgh-aub is a large village, in which there is a fort and many en-
closed gardens ; and near it are springs of fine water which irrigate the
whole plain.

20th. Continuing our road to the N. we passed over a country of
ascents and descents, which can hardly be dignified by the denomi-
nation of mountains. The different bearings of the road were N. 50 W.,
then N., then E., then N. E., until we quitted the hills, when the road
took a northerly direction, which we kept with some trifling variations
for the remainder of our stage. At about nine miles from Moorgh-aub,
we arrived at a caravanserai now almost ruined, called from the village
which once stood in its neighbourhood, Khoneh Kergaun. Near it a
river runs to the west, and over it is a bridge of three arches. We
arrived at Deibeed at four o'clock, after having travelled a distance of
twenty-five miles. We were seven hours and a half on the road, and
we generally calculate our rate of going at little more than three miles
in the hour. The country, through which we passed, was naked and
arid; the plain only was cultivated, and that partially. It is quite
destitute of wood, an article which, of all our necessaries, was collected
with the greatest difficulty. On the summits of the mountains, parti-
cularly on their northern aspects, were thin patches of snow, and some
were scattered even near our encampment. Deibeed is only a caravan-
serai ; close to it is an artificial mound of earth, covered with the
foundations of a building, which, from the light brick of its construction,
appeared to us a modern work.

The evening set in gloomily ; Deibeed is considered the coldest spot
in this region, and the snows in the winter have sometimes impeded
the progress of travellers for forty days together. The Mehmandar
looked at the sky with apprehension ; and the Governor of Moorgh-

148

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

aub, (Aga Khan, an Arab of an old and respected family, who had
accompanied us to the bounds of his district to provide amply for our
passage) shared his forebodings. He had himself often experienced
the severities of this country, and he, better than any one, knew the
distresses which the detention of two or three hundred men in a spot
so destitute and insulated would occasion. He had provided susten-
ance for ourselves and our cattle for one night only, and this he had
transported with great trouble from Moorgh-aub and other villages.
Indeed through the whole of our march great and early were the pre-
parations made by the chiefs of the country for our reception. If
these were the difficulties of our passage, the march of an army would
not be easily conducted. The country in its present state could not
complete magazines of provisions, even if it were required by its own
government. It must however be always recollected, that this is the
least fertile province of the kingdom.

21st. The snow did not fall, and we proceeded ; we travelled nearly
north during the whole of this day, and at the termination of our
march (a distance of fourteen miles) entered a pass, which is more
particularly dreaded as a stoppage in snows. We rested for the night
at Khona KhorrSh, a poor caravanserai now, but once, by the appear-
ance of its walls, a respectable building. We had here much cause to
regret the pleasant and copious streams of Moorgh-aub ; for the water
which supplied our camp was taken from a pond twenty feet in circum-
ference, so impregnated by the ordure of camels that it appeared quite
black. After sun-set, a fresh breeze sprung up from the S. W. It in-
creased in the night ; and at about two in the morning blew a furious
gale.

Sunday the 22d. The wind continued to rage during the whole of
this day, and only fell at night. Heavy clouds from the S. W. over-
topped the whole of the surrounding mountains and precipitated them-
selves down their sides, in the manner of the clouds at the Table
Mountain at the Cape, when it blows from the S. E. Many of our

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149

tents were blown down and much damaged. Notwithstanding the
fury of the tempest we did not omit to put up our prayers and thanks-
givings for all the blessings bestowed upon us ; and the storm around ,
only added, I hope, to the solemnity of our devotion. The very fine
weather with which we have been blessed was certainly a theme of gra-
titude. We had not had even a shower since our first departure from
Bushire ; and the oldest inhabitants of this part of the country utter
constant ejaculations of astonishment at the extreme moderation of
the season, which they are pleased to attribute to the good luck
of the Envoy.

Mirza Abool Hassan, a Persian of much influence at court, ar-
rived in the course of the day from Teheran, and was the bearer of a
letter from the King to the Envoy. This letter was nearly to the same
effect as the first, giving details of the victory over the Russians. We
went forward to meet it as before, and adopted the former ceremony
of giving it a solemn reading.

23d. Although the violence of the wind had fallen in the morning,
very heavy clouds still covered the summits of the mountains, and
threatened a renewal of bad weather. We proceeded, however, on a
fine hard road (on the bearing of N. 40 W. during the whole march)
and arrived in safety at Surmek in five hours and forty minutes after
our departure from Khona KhorrSh. The people of the country
reckon this day's journey at six long furmngs, though to us it ap-
peared a smaller distance. The Persian fur sung is indeed so indeter-
minate a measure, that no calculation can be safely formed from it,
and no man can give a satisfactory account of its real length. On the
whole, we found that the reputed distances in the line of our march
are rather over-calculated than under-rated. The road leads on the
right of a plain which widens at its northern termination. The moun-
tains on both sides of it run N. and S. taking indee ] a transverse E.
and W. direction at both its extremities ; and beyond the first range on
the west of the route is another, and a parallel chain of much greater

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PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

elevation, which binds an intermediate plain. The peasantry are ill
clothed, and look miserably. They wear in general a little skull cap,
slit on each side, called Dogoosheh. Their dress is a loose coat with
hanging sleeves of a very rude cloth, tied about with a coarse sash.
Sumek, where we encamped for the night, is situated on the E. side
of the plain, near the foot of the mountains. It now consists of a
square mud fort, which contains its whole population; around it
are the ruins of its original extent. Between the town and the
mountains the cultivation is very luxuriant, for the fields are irri-
gated by kanaats from a neighbouring stream. To the northward of
the fort, and two hundred yards from the road, stand the remains
of a castle, which the Persians assign to the age of King Bah ram,
but which, in construction, resembles so nearly the later buildings of the
country, that its antiquity becomes suspicious. It is nevertheless in
itself a most curious work. A ditch surrounds it, and there is a wall
within it, composed, like the outward parts of the fabric, of large stones
cemented together by mud. The great variety of vaulted chambers
and subterraneous inlets, proves that it was destined for other purposes
than those of military defence only.

On the 24th re resumed our march, on a road as hard and fine as
that of the preceding day, and on the same bearing ; and having tra-
velled in four hours a distance probably of twelve miles, reached our
encampment at AbadSh. We noticed many square forts, which are
now generally not only the protection of the district, but the residence
of the cultivators. The ruins indeed, which overspread the country,
contrast its former prosperity too forcibly with the present depopula-
tion. In this region, however, the more immediate causes of its devas-
tation have ceased ; for it owed its principal sufferings to the long wars,
of which it was the scene, between the Zand and Cadjar families, and
which are now terminated by the fortune of the latter. On our arrival
at Abadeh, we were saluted as usual by the istakball, who went through
all their noise and firing. The first appearance of Abadeh announces

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151

a large place ; but on a nearer inspection the town exhibits only a great
extent of ruined walls without inhabitants. The present population is
all enclosed within a square fort, the walls, indeed, of which were
crowded by women, whose white veils made them conspicuous objects
even at a distance. The fort itself is defended by a turret at each
angle, and three in each of the intervening sides. I walked into it to
look at a bath, the most respectable building in the place; for the rest
consists only of miserable walls of mud or brick. Yet in the rudest
wall we found a well-formed arch, which the want of timber has taught
the people to construct, and the same necessity has forced the same
lesson on other parts of the country.

The property and jurisdiction of Abadeh, Surmek, and Shoolgistoon,
with their intervening territories, belong by purchase to one man. Yet
the scarcity of water in the district must render it an unprofitable
estate. Abadih, however, is surrounded by gardens, from which some
very good fruit is sent to Shiraz ; but the irrigation is all carried by
artificial kanauts.

25th. The clouds which, on the preceding day, had sprinkled a few
flakes of snow on our tract, and had threatened a heavy fall, rolled off
before day-break, and opened to us one of the most bulliant mornings
in nature. The mountains were no longer concealed from our view ;
the snow, indeed, covered their summits, and impregnated every blast
of wind with a piercing but invigorating freshness. We proceeded
along the same plain, on a bearing which averaged N. 29 W. The high
lands on each side, now advancing, now receding from us, continued
their N. and S. direction; and, where the snow had not covered their
surfaces, presented that hard and forbidding aspect which indicated the
minerals below.* The soil on the plain still was gravel lightly mixed

the rest entire,

Shone with a glossy scurf, undoubted sign,

That in his womb was hid metallic ore

The work of sulphur. Par. Lost. I. 670.

152

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

with earth, producing nothing but thistles and soap-wort. Indeed, if it
were a finer mould, the want of water would render it of little value
even to the most skilful possessor. At the distance of three miles from
a village called Bagkwardar we halted ; and I took a meridional obser-
vation of the sun, which gave us a latitude of thirty-one degrees twenty-
five minutes. We reckoned eight miles from AbadSh to this spot, and
nine more to Shoolgistoon, the termination of the day's march. Whilst
we were waiting until the sun should pass the meridian, one of our
party picked up the stump of a thistle, and on examining its inside, we
found two torpid wasps, which had formed their recess there, waiting
the approach of spring once again to issue into life.

The little fort, mosque, and caravanserai at Shoolgistoon are seen at
least six miles before they are reached. The plain to the northward of
our route was bounded by a flat horizon, from which every successive
mountain or building rose, as we advanced, like objects when first seen
at sea.

26th. The night was boisterous, the wind blew strong from the south-
ward and westward, and distant thunder rolled over the hills. The
morning presented a dark and dismal array of clouds and snow-clad
mountains all around us ; and when the trumpet sounded for the Envoy's
departure, every thing announced a cold and cheerless ride. The sun
made several efforts to break through the heavy atmosphere, and suc-
ceeded once or twice, only to cast faint shadows of our troops across
the road as we paced along; and, when we were about four miles from
our destined encampment at Yezdikhaust, the rain begun to fall. We
travelled a distance of fifteen miles in five hours. The road was still
carried over a gravel soil, till about two miles from Yezdihhaust, when
we entered a softer ground. The mountains gradually dwindled into
hills, and seemed to form a termination to this long plain by throwing
themselves in lessening forms across it. They continued, like those of
our latter route, barren, brown and inhospitable, without a shrub to en-
liven their rugged masses. On the left of the plain, all were covered
with snow, while all to the right were as yet untouched.

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

153

We could perceive the town of Yezdikhaust a long time before we
reached it, and supposed, therefore, that it was situated at the foot of
the eastern hills, on the same plain as that on which we were travelling.
Our surprise then was, of course, excited to find ourselves on a sudden
stopt by a precipice in our route. From its brow we overlooked a
small plain beautifully watered by a variety of streams, and parcelled
out in every direction into cultivated fields and gardens. The country
which we had crossed was unbroken by the labour of the ploughman ;
here his industry was displayed and richly rewarded : we had seen
scarcely one scanty rill; here water meandered in profusion; and
though this little spot was now stripped of its verdure and chilled by
the gloom of winter, the contrast between cultivation and a desert was
still striking and cheering. This valley is like a large trench excavated
in the plain. It is five miles long in an E. and W. direction, and about
three hundred yards broad in the line where we crossed; but the
breadth is unequal. At the eastern extremity on the brink of the pre-
cipice, hangs the town of Yezdikhaust. Its situation is most fantasti-
cal, and its mean and ill-defined houses appear at first sight to belong to
the rocks on which they rise, and which, in varied and extravagant
masses, surround the valley. The substance of the rock is soft. Be^
neath it is a caravanserai, an elegant building erected near two hun-
dred years ago by a pious Queen of the Seffi race. It is still in good
repair, less by the care of the present generation than by the original
solidity of its structure. On the verge or the precipice is a small
mosque, built by the same Queen; and around it a burial place.
Yezdikhaust is the frontier town of the provinces of Fars and Irak.
Before the conquest of the Afghans it was a place of some conse-
quence, but since their devastations it has never resumed its prospe-
rity. It was taken by assault, and the inhabitants put to the
sword. To the East, over a rude drawbridge, is the entrance to the
town, which, without the use of cannon, seems almost impregnable.
It is there an isolated rock, connected with the others around only by
this bridge.

154

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

27th. It rained at intervals during the night with much fury. It
cleared up, however, during the morning, and the sun shone bright ;
but it was then freezing so hard, that we were obliged to leave the
tents behind us until they should have lost their stiffness in the
warmth of the day. The feast of the Corban Bairam now com-
menced among the Mussulmans. The Persians performed the cere-
monies of the day, and we again proceeded on our journey. The
direction of our march averaged N. 10 W. After travelling nearly
seven hours we reached its termination at Maxhood-Beggy, a dis-
tance of eighteen miles. The line of our route led us to the W. side
of the plain, over a road still finer even than that on which we had
journied on the preceding day. The mountains lost their regular
bearing and outline, and were more varied in their projections and
recesses. At about nine miles from Yezdikhaust we arrived at a
caravanserai and a fort, the approaches to which were thickly spread
with the vestiges of a town. The place was called Ameenabad. On
the plain also, which succeeded, were scattered ruins. A North-east
wind sprung up, and, passing down the snowy summits of the
mountains, brought a sharpness so piercing, that, for the first time,
we were incommoded by the cold, and were anxious to get to our
encampment for the night.

Before our arrival, we were met by a person deputed by the Go-
vernor of Ispahan, to welcome us into his territory. Maxhood-Beggy
is seen at a distance, and then looks a large place. But the appear-
ances of its grandeur vanish on a nearer approach in ruins ; some
indeed are substantial walls, and the remains of bazars. Yet, instead of
the dilapidated chamber of some miserable caravanserai, which alone
we could have expected, we were lodged in a house of singular con-
venience and even elegance. It was built in fact, for her own accom-
modation, by the Queen at Shiraz, (the mother of the Prince Governor
of Farsistan) who was accustomed every two years to take a journey to
the King at Teheran, and who accordingly provided on both the winter
and the summer route a similar resting place. She enjoys a great rcputa-

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

155

tion, and the affections of the people ; for she is charitable to the poor,
and ready to do justice to the oppressed.

28th. When we departed from Maxhood-Beggy, our weather was
clear and serene. There was not a breath in the heavens, and the
clouds had dispersed. As we approached Komeshah, the plain ap-
peared more cultivated and better inhabited. Among the small forts
and enclosed gardens of men, were interspersed small towers built for
the convenience of the wild pigeons. These birds are greatly encouraged
round the country, for their manure is considered essential to the
fertility of the fields ; the immense number of pigeon houses (in ruins, or
still entire) on the plain about Komeshah, attest at least the prevalence
of the belief, if not the truth of the fact. The distance to Komeshah is
twelve miles on a bearing of N. 10 W. This place also was once large,
and in the time of the Seffis well peopled. It still occupies a large
tract of ground, and is walled all around. But since it was taken by
the Afghans, and a great part of its inhabitants put to the sword ; it
has fallen hopelessly. After having crossed the bed of the stream, and
the channels of an immense number of kanauts, we entered the town
through a gate to the westward. We passed through streets and bazars,
of which nothing but the bare walls were standing, and at length
reached the best house in the place ; but the only approach even to
this was amid the stones and mud fragments of surrounding ruins.
Travelling in our present mode, and carrying about a population of our
own, we do not so much feel the misery with which a country so
wretched, and towns so devastated, would inspire any one of us going
through the same tract a solitary individual. The ruins themselves be-
come animated on being peopled by our numerous party, who spread
themselves all about in busy groupes, and awake the solitude and
silence of these wastes so long unbroken by the vivacity of their dis-
putes, the confusion of their different works, and the vociferations of
their rude songs. As soon as we entered Komeshah, all the place was in
motion ; the scanty population which it afforded, and which had been

x 2

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

accumulated by that of every neighbouring village, came out to greet
us, betraying indeed their own wretchedness by the poverty of their
clothing, and every comfortless circumstance of their appearance.
They have a manufacture of cloth in Komeshah called kaduck, a
better sort of that coarse linen called kerbas, which is made in every
village.

The Envoy, according to the common custom of the country, sent a
present to the Governor of the place, with this difference, indeed, that
it was much larger than the rank of the party entitled him to expect.
It consisted of cloth, fine chintz, &c. The Governor however, when it
was brought to him, indignantly snatched one piece of chintz, and told
the bearer to take the rest as unworthy of his own acceptance, in the
hope that the Envoy would hasten to atone for his disrespect by
doubling the gift. Sir Harford, with great indifference, desired the
servant to keep what he had received, and congratulated him on his
good luck. In vain did the Governor entreat to have the original gift
restored, in vain did the Mehmandar mediate, the Envoy was inflexible,
and the Governor, to the laugh of every one, remained with his
single piece.

29th. At a mile and a half from Komeshah, on the left, is the tomb
of Shah Reza, and near it an extensive burying ground ; over one of
the tombs is the remains of a lion in stone : whatever it may mean,
it is certain that it dates from the remotest antiquity, being evi^
dently prior to the Arabian conquests, and to the establishment of
the Mahomedan religion in Persia. The ruined forts, the towers
for pigeons, and other signs of habitation and cultivation which are
seen on the plain to the Northward of the town, prove that Kome-
shah has shared the prosperity of the better days of Persia. Our
weather continued most delightful, nor did I indeed recollect to
have ever seen an atmosphere so lucid and so soft. The moun-
tains to the Northward, which shewed their distant summits over the
ridges of the nearer hills, although crowned with snow did not seem

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

157

to have been so overwhelmed, as those which we had passed to the
Southward.

30th. Our road to Mayar was distant fourteen miles ; the village
is situated at the foot of the mountains bearing N. from Komeshah,
a point which we ascertained by setting the high hill over that place.
At Mayar is a fine caravanserai built by the mother of Shah Abbas.
It is a very extensive building, consisting of one front court, on the
right and left of which, under lofty arches, are rooms and stables for
the convenience of travellers. The front of the principal gate is
inlaid with green lacquered tiles and neat cut bricks. It opens into
the large square, in the centre of which is a platform of the same
shape. On the right of the exterior front, is the cistern, over the
orifice of which is thrown a platform with a pillar at each corner.
The general structure is of brick, except some of the better rooms, in
which a fine blue stone is used. The whole is falling rapidly into
decay as a caravanserai, and has now indeed been converted into
one of the common forts of the country by raising mud walls
around and turrets at proper intervals : a miserable contrast to the
elegant and substantial workmanship of former times.

Our camp was usually quiet, but in our later progress it was dis-
turbed by the quarrels of our own servants (who were mostly from
Farsistan) and those of the Mehmandar (who were natives of Irak.)
The rivality and hatred, which exist between the people of the two
neighbouring provinces, can be conceived by those only who have
witnessed their effects. They are much greater than between Chris-
tian and Mahomedan, or Sheyah and Sunni. The two parties frequently
come to blows, which would have closed the dispute to which I
allude, if we had not interfered ; and if the Mehmandar had not
exerted his best influence and authority by administering the stick plen-
tifully to all the offending parties.

31st. We called it twenty miles from Mayar to Ispahanek. We
reached the extremity of the plains of Mayar, and then wound

158

PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN.

through the mountains for about two hours, till we came into the
plains of Ispahan. Our road bore, on an average, North. The
Envoy was unwell, and rode in the takht-e-ravan, a species of litter
which is suspended by shafts on the backs of mules, one before and
one behind. This conveyance, when the mules keep an even pace,
is not unpleasant, but when the animals break into a trot, becomes
very disagreeable. On entering the plain, we started a flock of
antelopes.

CHAP IX.

ISPAHAN.

ItUINS ON THE PLAIN OF ISPAHAN THE ZAIANDE-ROOD RECEP-
TION OF THE ENVOY BY THE PEOPLE; THE MERCHANTS; THE

ARMENIAN CLERGY ; THE GOVERNOR ENTRANCE INTO THE

CITY BRIDGE CHAHAR BAGH PAVILIONS COLLEGE -PA-
LACES OF THE KING ; CHEHEL SITOON ; PAINTINGS HAREM

GATE GENERAL VIEW OF ISPAHAN MAIDAN PAVILION

OF THE CLOCK POPULATION ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN TO THE

ENVOY BY THE GOVERNOR.

A HE great number of buildings, which stud every part of the plain of
Ispahan, might lead the traveller to suppose that he was entering a
district of immense population. Yet almost the whole view consists of
the ruins of towns, and here and there only are spots which are en-
livened by the communities of men. But whatever may be the condi-
tion of modern Persia, its former state, if the remains scattered over the
whole country are sufficient evidences, must have been nourishing and
highly peopled.

The village of Ispahanek is situated just at the foot of a range of
hills which screen the extent of the great city from our view. It is
now reduced to a small fort, in which its population is immured. The

160

ISPAHAN.

plain is well irrigated by dikes cut from the Zaiande-rood, a river which,
in its course from the West, waters the whole country. It rises from
the Baktyar mountains, passes through Ispahan, and finalty expends
itself in the deserts of sand to the S. E. The Persians indeed have an
idle belief founded on a more idle tradition, that it resumes its waters
from the sand, constitutes the river which we crossed at Daulakee, and
discharges itself at last into the sea at Rohilla : a connection as they
still assert, ascertained by one of their Kings, who threw a marked
board into the place of the disappearance, and found it again in the
stream at Daulakee. Two etymologies are assigned to the name ; one
from ZaiandS, spurting, breaking from the ground, (jaillir ;) the other,
from ZendS, lost, alluding to its failure in the sand ; the termination rood
in either case is, river. Like every other part of the kingdom, the
country round Ispahan is almost destitute of timber ; and the surface is
a most arid field for the researches of a botanist. The vivid rock
of the mountains is lost at the point where their roots intersect
the plain below.

We estimated the distance from Ispahanek to Ispahan at two
fursungs, or six miles. We proceeded over the hills in regular proces-
sion ; the Envoy having taken every precaution that the Mission, with
which he was charged from the Throne, should be received with the
the fullest attention and respect. With this view it became his express
object, that the Governor of the city, Abdullah Khan, (son of
Mahomed Hussein Khan, the King's Second Minister) should
come out himself to meet him. As he had been led to understand that
this was a point already settled, he was surprised to hear by a message
which he received when he was on the road, that the Governor refused
to accede to his wishes, unless he first received a letter to that effect
from the Envoy himself. In consequence we made a temporary halt ;
and the Envoy wrote a note, stating, that although he thought himself
entitled to such a mark of attention from the Khan as an office of friend-
ship only, yet, as the bearer of a letter from his master the King of
England, to his Persian Majesty, he could not for a moment doubt, that

ISPAHAN.

161

the Governor would yield to that letter, the distinction he would pay to
his own Sovereign.

It will be well indeed to remark, that from the commencement of
our march, Sir Harford Jones took similar precautions to ensure
every honour to his Majesty's letter. It was always placed in a
takht-e-ravan or litter, which was escorted by ten Indian troopers and an
officer, and was never taken out or replaced without the trumpet of the
guard sounding a blast. Whenever we stopped, it was deposited in
the tent of ceremony under a cloth of gold ; a sentry with a drawn
sword was placed over it, and no one was permitted to sit with his
back to it. The correspondence of Princes is a general object of rever-
ence in the East ; and the dignity which by these observances we at-
tached to the letter of our Sovereign, raised among the people a corres-
ponding respect towards his representative.

At about four miles from Ispahan, we were met by an advanced part
of the inhabitants. As we approached the city, the crowd increased to
numbers which baffled our calculation or guess. Although the stick
was administered with an unsparing hand, it was impossible to keep
the road free for our passage. People of all descriptions were collected
on mules, on horses, on asses ; besides an immense number on foot.
First came the merchants of the city, in number about three hundred,
all in their separate classes. Then followed a deputation from the
Armenian clergy, composed of the Bishop and chief dignitaries in their
sacerdotal robes. They carried silken banners, on which was painted
the Passion of our Saviour. The Bishop, a reverend old man with a
white beard, presented the Evangelists bound in crimson velvet to the
Envoy, and then proceeded on, with his attendant priests, chaunting
their church service.

When we came into the plain, the city of Ispahan rose upon the
view, and its extent was so great East and West, that my sight could
not reach its bounds. The crowd now was intensely great, and at
intervals quite impeded our progress. Slowly however we were ap-
proaching near towards the city, and yet the Governor had not appeared.

162

ISPAHAN.

The Envoy intimated, that he would receive no istakball, unless the
Governor headed it. Two of the chief men of the place met us, as we
arrived at the entrance of a fine spacious road, between two lofty walls.
This was the beginning of the Ispahan gardens, yet the walls of the
city itself were still a mile from us. We turned to the left through a
narrow porch, which led us into a piece of ground, planted on one
side by lofty thenar trees, and bounded on the other by the beautiful
river Zaiande-rood. At the extremity of this spot was a tent. We
were told, that it had been prepared by the Governor for the Envoy,
and that he himself was there in waiting. The Envoy stopped his
horse, and declared, that unless he was met by the Governor on horse-
back, he would take no notice of him, but proceed to his own tents, and
march straight forward to Teheran. This produced the desired effect.
The Governor came forth, and met us a few paces from his tent, and
we then proceeded towards it and alighted. The place, where the
tent was pitched, was called Sa-atabad ; a pavilion had been built there
by Shah Thamas. The tent itself rested on three poles ; its sides
were of open worked chintz, and its floor was strewed with carpets ;
on which were laid out fruits and sweetmeats in great profusion.
Chairs of an old-fashion, like those in the sculptures at Persepolis, were
prepared for us, and we were not put to the inconvenience of pulling
off our boots. We were then served with kaleoons> and afterwards with
sweetmeats.

When this ceremony was over, we proceeded along the banks of the
Zaiande-rood, on the opposite side of which were rows of firs, and ancient
pinasters. We saw three bridges of singular yet beautiful construction.
That, over which we crossed, was composed of thirty-three lower
arches, above each of which were ranged three smaller ones. There is
a covered causeway for foot passengers ; the surface of the bridge is
paved, and is of one level throughout the whole extent. After we had
crossed it, we proceeded through a gate into the Chahar Bagh,
which is a very spacious piece of ground, having two rows of chenar
trees in the middle, and two other rows on each side. The garden is

ISPAHAN.

163

divided into parterres, and copiously watered by the canals of water,
which run from one side of it to the other ; and which at regular inter-
vals are collected into basons square or octagonal. This fine alley is
raised at separate distances into terraces, from which the water falls in
cascades. Of the chenar trees, which line the walks, most can be
traced to the time of Shah Abbas, and when any have fallen, others
have immediately been planted. On either side of the Chahar Bagh,
are the eight gardens which the Persians call Hasht-behesht, or eight
paradises. They are laid out into regular walks of the chenar tree, are
richly watered, and have each a pleasure-house, of which we were con-
ducted to occupy the best, that at least, which was certainly in more
perfect repair than the others. The rest indeed are in a state of decay,
and corroborate only by the remains of the beautifully painted walls
and gilded pannels, those lively and luxuriant descriptions of their
former splendor which travellers have given.

On the right of the Maidan, and nearly in the centre of the Chahar
Bagh, is a college called Medresse Shah Sultan Hossein. Its entrance
is handsome ; a lofty portico enriched with fantastic-twisted pillars, and
intermixed with the beautiful marble of Tabriz, leads through a pair of
brazen gates, of which the extremities are silver, and the whole surface
highly carved and embossed with flowers and verses from the Koran.
The gates pass into an elevated semi-dome, which at once opens into
the square of the college. The right side of this court is occupied by
the mosque, which is still a beautiful building, covered by a cupola and
faced by two minarets. But the cupola is falling into decay, the
lacquered tiles, on its exterior surface, are all peeling off, and the
minarets can no longer be ascended, for the stairs are all destroyed. The
interior of the dome is richly spread with variegated tiles, on which are
invocations to the prophet, and verses of the Koran in the fullest pro-
fusion. I ascended the dome, from which I had but a partial view of
the surrounding country ; and that which I did see was scarcely any
thing more than a series of ruined houses and palaces. The other sides

16*4

ISPAPIAN.

of the square arc occupied, one, by a lofty and beautiful portico, and
the remaining two by rooms for the students, twelve in each front, ar-
ranged in two stories. These apartments are little square cells, spread
with carpets, and appeared to me admirably calculated for study. In-
deed, the quiet and retirement of this college, the beauty and serenity
of the climate, and the shrubbery and water in the courts, would have
combined to constitute it in my eyes a sanctuary for learning, and a
nursery for the learned, if it had been in any other country. We had
some conversation with the Director of the college Mech-essS Jedeh,
Mirza Mahomed Cossim. He is an old man, and possesses a very
high literary reputation in Persia, and appeared indeed to know much
more than the greater part of those whom we had seen, and to be a
perfect master of the history of Persia. He was extremely inquisitive,
and his questions were acute and pertinent ; he was much delighted
with our drawings, and with the map of our route, which we had
laid down.

The palaces of the King are enclosed in a fort of lofty walls, which
may have a circumference of three miles. The palace of the Chchel
Sitoon, or " forty pillars/' is situated in the middle of an immense square,
which is intersected by various canals, and planted in different directions
by the beautiful chenar tree. In front is an extensive square basin of
water, from the farthest extremity of which the palace is beautiful be-
yond either the power of language or the correctness of pencil to deli-
neate. The first saloon is open towards the garden, and is supported
by eighteen pillars, all inlaid with mirrors, and (as the glass is in much
greater proportion than the wood) appearing indeed at a distance to be
formed of glass only. Each pillar has a marble base, which is carved
into the figures of four lions placed in such attitudes, that the shaft
seems to rest on their four united backs. The walls, which form its ter-
mination behind, are also covered with mirrors placed in such a variety
of symmetrical positions, that the mass of the structure appears to be
of glass, and when new must have glittered with most magnificent

ISPAHAN.

165

splendour. The ceiling is painted in gold flowers, which are still fresh
and brilliant. Large curtains are suspended on the outside, which are
occasionally lowered to lessen the heat of the sun.

From this saloon an arched recess (in the same manner studded with
glass, and embellished here and there with portraits of favourites) leads
into an extensive and princely hall. Here the ceiling is arranged in a
variety of domes and figures, and is painted and gilded with a taste and
elegance worthy of the first and most civilized of nations. Its finely
proportioned walls are embellished by six large paintings : three on one
side and three on the other. In the centre of that opposite to the en-
trance is painted Shah Ism a el, in an exploit much renowned in Per-
sian story; when in the great battle with Soliman, Emperor of the
Turks, he cuts the Janisary Aga in two before the Sultan. On the right
of this, surrounded by his dancing women, musicians, and grandees,
is Shah Abbas the Great, seated at a banquet, and offering a cup of
wine to another King, whom he is entertaining at his side. The Avine,
indeed, seems to have flowed in plenty, for one of the party is stretched
on the floor in the last stage of drunkenness. The painting to the left
is Shah Th am as, in another banquet scene. Opposite to the battle
between Shah IsMAELand Sultan SoLiMAN,is that of Nadir Shah
and Sultan Mahmoud of India. On the left of this is Shah Ab-
bas the Younger, who also is occupied with the pleasures of the table ;
and on the right is Shah Ismael again, in an engagement with the
Usbeck Tartars. These paintings, though designed without the smallest
knowledge of perspective, though the figures are in general ill-propor-
tioned, and in attitudes awkward and unnatural, are yet enlivened by a
spirit and character so truly illustrative of the manners and habits of the
nations which are represented, that I should have thought them an in-
valuable addition to my collection, if I could have had time to have
made copies of them. When it is remembered, that the artist neither
could have had the advantages of academical studies, nor the opportu-
nities of improving his taste and knowledge by the galleries of the
great in Europe, or conversed with masters in the art, his works would

166

ISPAHAN.

be allowed to possess a very considerable share of merit, and to be
strong instances of the genius of the people. The colours with which
they are executed retain their original freshness ; at least if they have
faded they must have been such in their first state, as we have not seen
in Europe. The gilding, which is every where intermixed, either to ex-
plain the richness of the dress, or the quality of the utensils, is of a
brilliancy perhaps never surpassed.

They pessess less questionably an excellence, to which the merit of
colouring k at any rate very subordinate. They mark strongly and
faithfully the manners of their subject, and combine in a series of
pleasing ard accurate records a variety of details, of feature, attitude,
dress, dancing, musical instruments, table furniture, arms, and horse
accoutrements of the country. Shah Abbas, in the painting to the
right, has no beard. The fashions have altered with the times, and the
present Khg cherishes a beard which descends lower than his girdle,
and touches the ground when he sits. The notoriety of Shah Abbas
in the revels of the table, and particularly his love of wine, are here
displayed ii characters so strong, that they cannot be mistaken : and so
little did he endeavour to conceal his propensities, that he is here
painted in ;he very act of drinking. The faces of the women are very
pleasing, but their wanton looks and lascivious attitudes easily explain
their professions.

The furniture of the Chehel Sitoon, which consists indeed of carpets
only, is still kept there. The carpets of the time of Abbas are of a large
pattern, mere regular and infinitely superior in texture to those of the
present day. Although the outer part of the fabric is suffered to fall to
ruin, the interior is still preserved in repair, as it forms the Dewan
Khoneh, or Hall of Audience to the Palace; and is, therefore, kept in
readiness for the King's reception.

Adjoining to the Chehel Sitoon is the harem; the term in Persia is ap-
plied to the establishments of the great, zenana is confined to those of
the inferior people. This building was lately erected by Mahomed
Hossein Khan, the second Minister, and presented by him to his

ISPAHAN.

167

Majesty, and therefore is a very good specimen of the style and work-
manship of the present day ; and in this view it merits description.
It is indeed considered so perfect in its establishment, that if the King
were to arrive at Ispahan without a moment's notice, not one, the smallest
domestic article, would be wanting for the convenience of his suite, and
the whole palace would present all the comforts which could be found
after a residence of many years. From the garden of the Chehel Sitoon an
intricate passage leads under an octagonal tower into this new palace, and
opens into an oblong square laid out into flower beds, straight walks and
basins of water, and surrounded on all its sides by chambers for women
of an inferior rank. Proceeding on the left side of this court, a door
opens into a species of green-house called the Narangistoon, in which
there are only young orange trees. From this there is but one step
into the principal court of the building, one whole side of which is
occupied by the King's apartments or drawing-rooms. The front
room is adorned by two portraits of his Majesty, on one side seated on
his throne, and on the other in the act of killing a deer in a chase on
horseback. There are also other pictures, of which the most remark-
able are those representing Ti moor or Tamerlane, Jenghiz Khan,
and Jemsheed, The walls are very richly painted with bouquets of
flowers, birds and other animals. The arch, which occupies the side
facing the great window, is a beautiful composition of glass and
painting, and was the neatest specimen of decorative art which I had
then seen in Persia. The ceiling is highly ornamented ; gilded flowers
and bright looking glasses glisten on every side, and give great liveli-
ness and gaiety to the whole. Behind this is another room equally
well painted ; the upper windows are here most artfully constructed
of plaster, which is pierced into small holes in a great variety of
figures and rlowers resembling the open work of lace, and admitting a
pleasing light. In this room also there are portraits, one of which, that
of a European, is called the Shah Zade Fre?ig, or European Prince.
He is represented in our dress of the sixteenth century, in which

168

ISPAHAN.

indeed all the portraits of the Europeans appear, and which is suffi-
ciently explained by the recollection that Shah Abbas had Dutch
painters in his pay. The other rooms in this department are similarly
decorated and gilded ; and in some hang portraits of the King; to
which the natives, as they approach, all make an inclination of the
head. Under the great room are summer apartments excavated in
the ground, which in their season must be delightful retreats. They
are all wainscoted and paved with marble slabs, and water is introduced
by cascades, which fall from the ground floor, and refresh the whole
range. A passage leads to the bath, which, though small, is elegant.
The domes are supported by columns, taken from the Armenian
churches at Julfa.

From this court, a passage leads into several others for inferior
women; and then into two rooms built by Ashreff, one of the
Afghan Kings. The latter are indeed much inferior to those which I
have already described. They have heavy massive glasses and gild-
ings, and coarse paintings of fruits and flowers, without any representa-
tion of the human figure. On the whole, however, we found through-
out the palace much sameness, both in the arrangement of the
rooms, and in the distribution of the grounds. In the love of water
and running streams, a Persian taste is fully gratified at Ispahan,
through which the Zaiande-rood affords for all their ornamental purposes
an unceasing supply.

From the interior of the palaces we ascended the All Capi gate,
which forms the entrance. This gate, once the scene of the magnifi-
cence of the Seffi family, the threshold of which was ever revered as
sacred, is now deserted, and only now and then a solitary individual is
seen to pass negligently through. The remains of that splendour, so mi-
nutely and exactly described by Chardin, are still to be traced ; the
fine marbles remain, and the grandeur and elevation of the dome are
still undemolished. A ragged porter opened a small door to the right,
by which we ascended to the pavilion where Shah Abbas was wont

ISPAHAN

169

to see the games of the Maidan and the exercises of his troops. This
also is sinking rapidly into decay, and retains nothing to attest the
beauties which travellers describe, except the shafts of the wooden
columns, some pieces of glass, and some decayed paintings. From
this we ascended by a winding stair-case, still further to the very
summit. Here, as this is the highest building in the city, we enjoyed
a most extensive view, and from this place we could form a tolerably
just idea of its real extent. Houses, or ruins of houses, are spread
all over the plain, and reach to the very roots of the surrounding
mountains. From this point I took a panoramic view of the whole,
which I completed undisturbed, as I had secured the door, and the
porter at the bottom before I commenced.* There is no difference
in the colours of the buildings ; they are universally of a light yellow,
and, if it were not for an abundant intermixture of trees, which in
spring and summer cheer and enliven the scene, the view would be
monotonous. The trees are mostly the chenars ; but, besides these,
there are the Lombardy poplar, the willow, and an elm with very thick
and rich foliage and a formal shape. The domes of the mosques
are a field of green or sometimes blue-lacquered tiles, with ornaments
in yellow, blue, and red : the inscriptions are in the same colours.
They are crowned by golden balls and a crescent, with the horns
bending outwardly.

The mountains, which bound the plain to the Eastward, are the
most distant ; and those to the West are most strongly marked ;
all are dark without any verdure. The general appearance of the
soil in the town is light, and nearly of the same colour as the
houses.

All the cannon, which in Ciiardin's day were enclosed in a
balustrade before the palace, are removed, and there is not left a
vestige even of the balustrade itself. The Maidan Shah, the great public

* Of this view, a part is selected in plate XXII.

170

ISPAHAN.

place, no longer presents the busy scene which it must have displayed
in the better times of this kingdom. Of all the trees which sur-
rounded it, there is not one standing. The canals, of which the stones
remain, are void of water ; the houses, which surrounded the Maidan,
are no longer inhabited; and the very doors are all blocked up,
so that there is now only a dead row of arches to be seen all round.
The great market, which once spread the whole area with tents, is
now confined to one corner near the Nokara KhanSh. All the rest
is quite empty ; scarcely a person is seen to pass along. I saw no
traces of the pavilion of the clock, which in the time of Chardin
so much amused the people by the mechanism of its puppets. The
Mesjid Shah or Royal Mosque is still a noble building, if I might
judge from its outside ; although the lacquered tiles on the dome
are in many places falling off. We did not go further than the iron
chain, which is thrown across the entrance of its great gate leading into
the Maidan. The Mesjid of Loaft Ollah is exteriorly in good repair.
The great bazar is entered under the Nokara KhanSh by a hand-
some gate, the paintings on which still exist, but the large clock
(of which however the place is still seen) is no longer in exist-
ence ; nor is there any trace of that also, that was once on the very
summit. The other side of the gate opens into the fine bazars (for-
merly called the Kaiseree) now the Bazar Shah.

There are no modern bazars, except one built by Hajee Ma-
homed Hossein Khan, the second Minister. He has also made
a new Chahar Bagh, in that part of the city towards the bridge, called
Pool Hajoo. The bazars, as I had occasion to observe at Shiraz,
are all laid out on nearly the same plan as those of Constantino-
ple ; generally the different trades in separate bazars. They are
on the whole more lively than those of Turkey ; being painted and
adorned in many places, (particularly under the domes in the centre),
with portraits of the heroes of the country, or with combats, or with
figures of beasts, and other subjects. In these bazars the confluence
of people is certainly great, and if the crowds here were a fair mca-

ISPAHAN.

171

surement of the general population of the city, the whole numbers of
Ispahan would swell rapidly ; but as every one in the course of the
day has some business in this spot, the rest of the city is compara-
tively deserted; and as the traders also themselves have here their
shops only and return to their homes at night, the mixed multi-
tudes which throng the bazars, again scattered over all the quarters
of the town, become a very inadequate proportion for its extent.
The women, indeed, except the very lower class, generally remain
at home,, and during the day form, with their children, all the po-
pulation of some parts of the city. The N. and E. divisions are
the best inhabited. In Chardin's time the numbers were esti-
mated by those who reckoned largely one million and one hundred
thousand souls; but even by the more moderate were fixed at six
hundred thousand. Considering, however, the state of ruin in which,
perhaps, half of Ispahan is at present, we cannot place its actual
population at more than four hundred thousand souls, a calculation
which is supported by the accounts of the houses or families, of
which there are eighty thousand. This information was subsequently
communicated to me by Hajee Mahomed Hossein Khan, second
Minister to the King, a native also of the city, and long its Governor,
whose opportunities therefore of ascertaining the fact were unquestion-
able. Much, nevertheless, must be allowed for the exaggeration na-
tural to a Persian.

The kabob shops (or eating-houses on the plan of those in Turkey)
seemed to be also equally clean and well arranged. From one of
these a complete dinner, with every necessary convenience of dishes,
sherbets, &c. may be procured at a short notice, and at a moderate
expence. The most frequent shops appeared to be those of sweet-
meats, which (in a consumption almost incredible) form the chief
ingredients of Persian food, and are here arranged for sale very
neatly in large China vases, clean glass vessels, and bright brass
platters. The people excel in the composition ; and import their sugar

ISPAHAN.

from India, and their sugarcandy from China. Large quantities of
sugar come from Cairo also, through Suez.

The Beglerbeg, or Governor, gave the Envoy and his suite an en-
tertainment which, in one particular only, was more splendid than
those at Shiraz. The great court and all the avenues were here
illuminated by a vast number of small lamps, which threw an immense
blaze of light all over the place. A China drum which the Beglerbeg
had been keeping for many years till , a fit opportunity for the display
should occur, was now brought forwards. It was suspended on high
in the middle of the court. The fire was applied to it, but it emitted
thick vapour with little explosions at intervals ; and though a meschal
or great torch was at length tried, it only increased the smoke and
stench, and proved too clearly, that the whole was a Chinese fraud,
not unfrequently practised on the purchasers of their drums ; a little
gunpowder was placed at the ends indeed, but the centre was stuffed
with old rags. The other fireworks also were generally miserable, in
comparison with those at Shiraz. The dinner, (instead of being served
in the usual manner on the ground) was placed on tables framed for
the occasion, and was piled up in enormous heaps. The Beglerbeg had
the further attention to provide us with plates, spoons, knives, and
forks, which were all in like manner made for the day's entertain-
ment. The spoons were of silver, and that for the Envoy was
of gold.

The report, which we had received on the road, that it was
the intention of the government to detain the Envoy at Ispahan, did
not prove without foundation. The Beglerbeg said, " that the Em-
" bassador was to stay at Ispahan to see the country at his leisure,
" and visit all the fine buildings of the city/' However, at a private
conference which Sir Harford had with him at the Goush KhonSh,
all this was changed, so thaf the Beglerbeg was then more anxious
even than ourselves, that we should proceed to the capital with every
possible expedition. He now urged on the Envoy, promising all his

ISPAHAN.

173

assistance to enable him to reach Teheran, before the commencement
of the mourning of the Moharrem ; engaging his own mules to convey
us from Ispahan, and ordering two relays of one hundred and fifty
each at Ka'shan and at Kom. This anxiety was again seconded by a
courier, who had arrived in two days from Teheran, and had
brought the answers to the letters which we had dispatched from
Khojieh Korreh.

CHAP. X.

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

DEPARTURE FROM ISPAHAN — MOURCHEKOURD — SCENE OF THE

VICTORY OF NADIR SHAH RUINS THE BUND KOHROOD

KASHAN SALT DESERT KOOMJ TOMB POOL DALLAUKJ AD-
VENTURE IN THE NIGHT VIEW OF TEHERAN APPROACH

ENTRANCE INTO THE CITY.

ON the 7th of February, accordingly we left Ispahan; our first day's
march, from Goush KhonSh to Gez> was a distance of ten miles only.
On the right of the road is a village called Sayin, which, as we were told,
produces the best melons in the country. The soil, over which we tra-
velled, was soft and crumbling, and strongly impregnated with salt, and
in parts rendered muddy and swampy by the streams which intersect
it. The weather was lowering on all sides, with a breeze from the
Westward ; which here and there in little whirlwinds carried the sand
high up into the air in columns, resembling water-spouts at sea. The
whole plain is covered with ruins, from which only now and then a
few miserable peasants crept out to gape at our passing troops. The
dikes, cut from the banks of the Zaiande-rood, irrigate the whole
of the plain, and produce a greater appearance of cultivation than

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

175

hitherto we had generally seen. The caravanserai at Gez, though fall-
ing into decay, is still handsome, and is built of the same materials,
and on nearly the same grand scale, as that which we had occupied at
Mayar. This likewise is the work of the Seffis. Similar caravanserais
were constructed at every stage on the road to Bagdad; nothing,
indeed, can equal the truly royal establishments which Shah Abbas
the Great maintained throughout his dominions for the accommodation
of strangers.

8th February. The bearing from Gez to Mourchekourd is N. W.
and the distance by our computation is eighteen miles, which we
travelled in six hours. At about seven miles, we came to a ruined
caravanserai, built of the same materials and in the same neat manner
as that at Gez. Nearly facing it is a well, to which we descended by
a path, excavated from the surface on an angle of forty-five degrees,
and about fifty yards in length. We saw small fish swimming about
in this well, which appeared to us to be a spring of fine and limpid
water. After having travelled about six miles further, we came to a
very handsome caravanserai. We had discovered it immediately on
ascending the summit of a range of hills, over which the road carried
us. It is situated on the right of the road, and, with its bath and
reservoirs on the left, was built by the mother of Shah Abbas. The
structure has suffered less, than any other which we have seen, by
the injuries of time and man. It is built of brick on a foundation
of the same fine blue stone, which we had so much admired at Mayar.
The front is ornamented with an open brick-work, and with neat
Mosaic. The portico is crowned by a superb dome, and leads into
the square court ; the sides of which contain the rooms for travellers.
Behind are vaulted stables with much accommodation. The hummum
is useless through decay ; but the reservoir is still in good repair.

From this we proceeded five miles to Mourchekourd, and passed
over a part of the plain, on which Nadir Shah gained his decisive
victory over Ashreff, the Afghan Chief. The mountains to the
Northward were covered with snow, and still presented a winter to us,

176

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

although the weather on the plain was delightfully serene and mild.
The soil is hard, in some places argillaceous. The whole country,
which we had passed in the day's march, was poor and depo-
pulated, though the ruins in different parts of the plain, speak that
it was once enlivened and enriched by men. As we approached
Mourchekourd we found indeed cultivation, and the kanauts which
produce it.

9th. From Mourchekourd a caravanserai which we were to pass,
bore by our compass N. 15 W. a distance of twelve miles. The
road was good, on an arid plain, bounded by inconsiderable moun-
tains. The caravanserai itself was another of those structures, which
in the latter part of our route we had so often admired. From this
point we continued for eight miles over rising and falling ground to a
second caravanserai called Aga Kemal, but pronounced short without
the g, Aakemal. Around we saw a little cultivation and a few poplars ;
all the rest is desert. On the left, bearing West, is the small territory
of Joshoogun, containing the three villages of Bendai, Khosroabad t
and Vazvoon, which we descried at the distance of about four miles,
situated under a red hill at the extremity of the plain. From Aga
Kemal we ascended mountains entirely covered with snow, which,
from its appearance indeed, may remain there throughout the Avhole
year. The distance to Kohrood was still twelve miles, which we
travelled by sun-set, having set oft' at five in the morning. By
the bearings of elevated hills we arranged our whole march to the
direction N. 10 W.

As we descended into the valley of Kohrood, which from the depth
of the snow was a work of some trouble, we noticed a pretty little
bubbling stream, which, winding through the vale, watered a succes-
sion of cultivated spots and plantations of apple, pear, poplar, and
walnut trees. The town is built on the side of a mountain. We
passed the night in the caravanserai, where our accommodations were
indifferent, and our rest, of which we were in great want, was broken
by the incessant noise and wrangling of our Persian attendants.

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

177

Several of our horses had been left on the road from excessive
fatigue.

The valley of Kohrood extends in a North-Eastern direction ; it is
abundantly watered and wooded beautifully, and every species of fruit
tree thrives there. The fields are disposed in terraces, and each sepa-
rate plat of cultivated ground is intersected by small ridges raised to
facilitate irrigation. We had hitherto passed through a country, to
which so much wood and so much cultivation afforded a very de-
lightful contrast. The Persians, indeed, admit, that there are few
Kohroods in the kingdom, and that in summer its verdure is incompar-
able. Our route led through another village in the same valley.
Close to the road is the tomb of one of the inferior saints of Persia, with a
pyramidical roof covered with green-lacquered tiles. As we passed near
it, a little boy, surrounded by a set of his companions, entreated our
compassion by invoking the name of the holy man in the neighbour-
ing grave. When we had quitted the trees and cultivated grounds,
we continued to wind in the valley which had then narrowed to a close
and sometimes difficult pass. This pass, on a bearing of N. 30 E. is
in length about six miles, and is terminated on the left of the road by
a caravanserai called Gueberabad. Before we reached it, we skirted a
small artificial lake called the Band Kohrood, the waters of which are
supplied by the river of Kohrood, and the melting of the snows of the
adjacent mountains, and are confined on the N. extremity by a strong
wall built across the chasm of the valley. A stream, however, oozes
out from the base, which finally expends itself in the plain about
Kashan. Gueberabad is at present a ruined village ; in former days it
was peopled, as its name imports, by the Gnebres.

The caravanserai is one of the good buildings of the age of the
Seffis, and by an inscription on the front appears to have been erected
by Meer Sakee, one of the generals of Shah Abbas. Here first
we discovered the plain of Kashan, bounded by the distant range of
mountains, of which Demawend formed the most conspicuous and the

A A

178

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

highest point. It rises in a very symmetrical cone abruptly from a
long and unbroken range. It is covered with eternal snows, but its
height is more easily deduced from the distance to which it is visible.
In a direct line from the caravanserai of Gueberabad, that distance
could not have been less than one hundred and fifty miles ; and the
Persians declare that it can be seen even at Ispahan from the minaret
of the Mesjid Shah, which is at least two hundred and forty miles
distant. We descended rapidly into the plain towards Kashan : here
we were met by a large istakball, which accompanied us to the
Northern side of the city with all the noises of Persian rejoicings .*

From Kashan we continued along the immense plain ; the moun-
tains, which bind it on the North, just appeared in the lightest blue
tints on the edge of the horizon. From Kashan to our encampment
at Nusserabad, we saw on the skirts E. and W. of the plain several
villages, and with them cultivation. On the left of the road were
Cosac, Key, Ser, Badgoon, Rouand, Corabad: on the right, Aroun,
Britgoli, Nouchabad, and Alt Abad. We reckoned the total length of
the day's journey at thirty miles (on a bearing of N. 20 W.) viz. eight
to Gueberabad, thirteen to Kashan, and nine to Nusserabad. In former
days the people of Nusserabad were noted for their idleness and pro-
pensity to voluptuousness, so that a fine gentleman is still called a
Mirza of Nusserabad.

On the morning of the 11th we quitted our tents two hours before
sun-rise, as we had a march of forty miles before us to Koom; the
Persians call the distance fifteen fursungs. We continued our route

* " At Kashan, according to the second Minister of the kingdom, who seemed devoutly
* to credit his own story, is a well, which we did not see. There is a descent of six
M months to the bottom, and in the different stages of the journey the traveller comes to
** plains and rivers. Some have gone down and never appeared again. These are tales
u which to a Persian are not incredible, though they will not believe that the streets of
u London are lighted, or that there are in Europe houses seven stories high."

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

179

along the plain in the same course as on the preceding day. On our
left were mountains, and on our right was the plain bounded only by
the horizon, and constituting indeed the commencement of the great
Salt Desert of Persia, which, according to the people of the country,
extends even to the confines of Usbeck Tartary. The principal part of
that over which we passed was a* soil strongly impregnated with salt,
which, after rain or snow, renders the roads difficult and dangerous.
The weather was favourable during our passage, and we crossed with-
out any inconvenience (except that of a heavy mud) a part of the
plain dreaded by caravans and travellers in winter journies. We tra-
versed the plain for ten miles, and then turned N. 30 W. among the
mountains. As we proceeded, we observed their strata disposed in
singular directions, and forming very varied angles with the horizon.
Nature, in some places, amid the stupendous masses of rock which
surrounded us, seemed to have finished her operations by small conical
mounds, increasing by regular gradations as they approached the mo-
ther mountain. Every thing looked as if it were newly created, and
only wanted the art and industry of man to rub off its first rude
surface.

At about eleven miles from Nusserabad stands a caravanserai called
Sin Sin, erected by the present King. It is a strong but vulgar build-
ing, when compared with the elegant structures of the reign of Shah
Abbas. The rude stones and plaster with which it is constructed,
are covered with a coat of white wash, which, at a distance indeed
gives it a magnificent appearance. Near this were the ruins of a
village. Still further, on the right of the road, are more ruins, which,
according to my informer, were those of a town called DeJmar. A
second caravanserai of the same materials as that of Sin Sin, is situated
at the distance of seven miles. Next is Passangoor, which is merely
another caravanserai in the plain, and distant twelve miles; at three
miles distant further is Langarood, which is remarkable for some old
pinasters standing about it, and a garden of some extent. From Lan-
garood to Koom is ten miles more. We reached Koom very late and

A A 2

180

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

had to pass through its extensive ruins when it was quite dark. The
Envoy, who rode in the takht-e-ravan 9 was in some danger in passing
over a bridge, for one of the mules slipping threw him nearly into
the stream.

Koom is esteemed a holy city ; it encloses the tombs of many saints,
and among others that of the sister of Imaum Reza. The present
Kino 1 made a vow before he ascended the throne, that if he should ever
succeed to the crown he would enrich the city of Koom by buildings,
and exempts its inhabitants from paying tribute. He has fulfilled his
vow, and has built a large medresse or college near the tomb of the
sister of Imaum Reza, and gives great encouragement to the learned
people who resort to it. He covered the cupola of the tomb itself
with gold plates (instead of the lacquered tiles which he removed), and
he is said to spend one hundred thousand tomauns annually, in the
embellishments of these monuments. The riches of this tomb are said
to be immense, and they are augmented every year by some new
donation in jewelry and precious stones from the King's wives, and the
great men of the court. The tomb of Imaum Reza himself is in the
city of Mescked.

12th. The morning presented to us a dark and threatening atmos-
phere, and a country covered with snow. It had fallen in the night
to a depth of six inches. We however proceeded on to Pool Dallauk,
a distance of twelve miles ; leaving our heavy baggage behind, as the
Envoy was particularly anxious to reach the capital, before the com-
mencement of the mourning of Moharre?n. North of Koom there is a
small river called the Khour-e-Shootur. The plain was much soaked
with the melted snow ; we reached the caravanserai at Pool Dallauk
at an early hour, intending to depart again at ten o'clock at night.
This place derives its name from a barber who repaired the bridge,
originally built by Shah Abbas over the river, which runs E.
and W. before the caravanserai. The water of this stream, and
indeed all the rivulets here, derive asaltness from the soil through which
they pass.

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

181

After having refreshed our cattle and ourselves, we made preparations
to depart at ten o'clock. The night was very dark, and our Mehman-
dar (who had not shewn an inclination to second our desires of
proceeding with all dispatch) now opposed every difficulty which he
could devise: he expatiated on the danger of undertaking the journey
by night, and talked of certain passes on the road, where travellers
had been lost and never more heard of. He was in fact an old man,
unaccustomed to the activity of our proceedings. Yet he was not the
only one, who was disappointed and surprised at the celerity of our
movements.

The chiefs of the tent-pitchers and of the muleteers, who had at-
tended former missions, had passed months on the road, and thus
secured a profit on the pay of their people and their mules, which the
shortness of our engagement greatly reduced. Our journies were
compared with the celebrated marches of their late King Aga Ma-
homed Khan, who waged so many wars with Lootf Ali Khan ;
but those, who considered it incompatible with the dignity of a
great man to move fast, said that we were rather choppers (couriers)
than Embassadors. Yet the greatest distance that we ever travelled in
one day was forty miles, and we employed thirty-five days in a
journey of about six hundred and fifty miles, at an average perhaps of
nineteen miles a day.

When we were unmoved by his forebodings, our Mehmandar endea-
voured to sooth us into compliance to his wishes, by sending us a
variety of savoury dishes for our dinner, which however only renewed
our spirits, and increased our eagerness to proceed. We accordingly
mounted our horses. The troop had already advanced with much of
our baggage. The Envoy (preceded by two people, who by courtesy
were called guides, and followed by the Mehmandar and the gentlemen
of the suite) had not travelled half a mile from the caravanserai, when
his conductors declared that they had lost the road. After long and
fruitless exertion, bewildered more and more by those who had under-
taken our direction, we resolved to return to the caravanserai, and -to

182

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

take a fresh departure. Even this became impracticable, for the
town was not to be found. The Mehtnandar then, seemingly in great
trouble, went forward himself to seek the place, and after much
delay returned to us, bringing along with him a poor wretch, whose
hands he had tied behind his back, and to whom he occasionally
administered blows. This was our new conductor, but he was so
much frightened, that he could not proceed, until the Envoy pledged
himself, that he should meet with no harm ; but on the contrary
should receive a reward of fifteen tomauns, if he led us in safety to
Kinar-a-gird. We again advanced, and were again unsuccessful ; our
new guide was more perverse or more stupid than his predecessors,
and we were once more obliged to return in the hope of regaining
the caravanserai. In search of this place we roamed about four long
and melancholy hours, hearing the cries of wanderers, as we supposed
like ourselves, in all parts of the plain. Unfortunately we had then
no compass with us, nor was there a star to be seen that might direct
us. At length however we espied a light, which happily proceeded
from the walls of our caravanserai, and guided us again to it.

We departed again the next morning, and discovered to our sur-
prise that the road, which to us had been rendered so intricate, led
straight to the opening of the mountains through which we were to
pass. It was impossible therefore to wander from it except pur-
posely, and the Mehmandcr at length acknowledged that he had
himself contrived the delay, and the mortification of the preceding
night. The Envoy refused to speak to him, threatened a complaint
to the King, and terrified him so effectually, that with every oath
common to a Persian, he cursed himself as " an old fool, and a stupid
" senseless wretch/' The Envoy at length relented, and assured him
that he had nothing to fear. At the distance of six miles from Pool
Dallauk, we entered the swamp of Kavecr, which (to its termination
at the caravanserai called Haooz Sultan) we crossed in three hours,
a length often miles. It is part of the great desert which reaches into
Khorassan, the soil of which is composed of a mixture (at least equal)

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

183

of salt and earth. Though the road therefore, over which we travelled,
is as good as those in any other direction across the swamp, it is
frequently after rains impassable : as the horses, which in our passage
were up to the fetlock, are up to their bellies in less favourable
weather.

At Haooz Sultan we were met by an Officer with a letter from the
King, expressing his thanks for the information communicated to him
by the Envoy, of the defeats which " the common enemy" had received
in Spain, and inviting him to arrive at his capital without delay.
We proceeded, and came to the Mulluk-al-Moat, a kind of pass
leading through an extent of broken country, which, forming a laby-
rinth of little hills and intricate nooks, has not unfrequently been a
real cause of difficulty to travellers, and to a certain degree embarrassed
us till we reached Kinar-a-gird. In the dells were a variety of streams
which were nearly salt The land itself bears evident marks of the
action of fire. The soap-wort is the most common shrub all over trie
face of the country, but no use is made of it. About twofursungs
from Kinar-a-gird we crossed a large salt stream, running from W. to
E. and just before it we were greeted by an istakball. Our march on
this day was forty miles. We passed the night in a large caravanserai
built by the present King at Kinar-a-gird; where the Mehmandar,
regardless of his late disgrace, again behaved ill, for his servants were
suffered to intrude on the space which had been reserved for us.

From Kinar-a-gird to Teheran is six fursungs, which we called
sixteen miles. We continued along the plain for two miles, crossing
numerous channels of water which are carried from the stream by
Kinar-a-gird. We then wound among some small hills for four
miles, when the plain of Teheran opened upon us, bounded from E. toW.
by a lofty range of mountains. Clouds generally rest on their sum-
mits, and the snow at this time covered their very roots. On the West
and high above them is the peak of Demawend.

Teheran, as we descended gradually into the plain, bore N. 25 E. of
us. On the right are the ruins of the ancient city of Iley, scattered in

184

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

great profusion at the foot of the nearer mountains. The soil of the
plain is salt, and of course very soft, intersected by a great number
of dikes, which being well replenished with water had rendered the
road extremely difficult. As we approached Teheran, we were met by
frequent istakballs, in the principal of which was Noitooz Khan,
one of the King's relations, and Master of the Ceremonies. The
mob increased greatly as we came to the town walls. At the gate,
through which we passed, were posted files of soldiers of the new corps,
dressed something like Russians and disciplined after the European
manner. We passed through small streets of miserable buildings, and
saw nothing that indicated royalty. At length we dismounted at the
house of Hajee Mahomed Hossein Khan, the second Minister,
where we were treated with chairs and tables, which had been provided
by our host. Though it had been his own residence, and though he
had just removed from it to make room for the Embassy, we found it a
mansion far less respectable than any that we had seen either at Shiraz
or Ispahan. All the riches are collected on the throne, and all around
is poverty, either real or affected.

The reception of His Majesty's Mission, from our entrance into
Persia to our arrival in the capital, was marked with the most ready
attention, and the highest honours from all classes ; and our journey
was now closed at Teheran by particular and gratifying distinctions.

CHAR XL

TEHERAN.

visit from the second minister the court poet first

conperence ceremonial of the public introduction

presents to the king brought by the envoy order of

the procession presentation the / ring of persia

peacock throne — -the court the palace the prime

minister; his levee — Persian traveller — present to
the envoy ceremonies of the moharrem.

XT had been decided on the day of our arrival, that the first visit
was to be paid by the owner of the house in which we lodged, Hajee
Mahomed Hossein Khan, Ameen-ed-Doulah, or Lord Treasurer:
but on the next day the Minister seemed to make some hesitation in
according the compliment, and said that he rather expected it from
the Envoy. Sir Harford Jones, however, immediately obviated the
difficulty by representing that even among the most uncivilized nations
the host pays the first attentions to his guest. When this explanation
was satisfactorily received the Minister came, and with him the King's
Chief Poet, and some other officers of state.
We went through the common routine of compliments and presenta-

B B

186

TEHERAN.

tions. When the poet was introduced to the Envoy, the conversation
turned on poetry and the works of the bard himself. He was extolled
above the skies ; all exclaimed that in this age he had not an equal on
earth, and some declared that he was superior even to Ferdousi, the
Homer of their country. To all this the author listened with very
complacent credulity, and at length recited some of his admired effu-
sions. His genius, however, is paid by something more substantial
than praise ; for he is a great favourite at court, and, according to my
Persian informers, receives from the King a gold tomaun for every
couplet ; and once indeed secured the remission of a large debt due to
the King by writing a poem in his praise. Yet the people, from whom
the supplies of this munificence are drawn, groan whenever they hear
that the poet's muse has been productive. Having exhausted the topics
of the weather, and the relative temperature and air of Teheran, Ispw
hail, and Shiraz, our host took his leave, telling us that the house was
our own, a common compliment of the East. In the evening the
Envoy went to a conference with him, and settled some points of im-
portance in the negociation. The ceremonial of the Envoy's
presentation to the King on the following day was then arranged;
and it was agreed that the audience should be exactly the same as that
given to Embassadors at Constantinople.

On the morrow accordingly we made every preparation of form for
our introduction ; and each appeared in green slippers with high heels,
and red cloth stockings, the court dress always worn before the King
Of Persia. Early in the morning we received a message desiring us
to be in readiness. At about twelve o'clock we proceeded to the
palace. The presents for the King were laid out on a piece of white
satin over a gold dish. It consisted of His Britannic Majesty's pic-
ture set round with diamonds ; a diamond of sixty-one carats valued
at twenty thousand pounds ; a small box, on the lid of which Windsor
Castle was carved in ivory ; a box made from the oak of the Victory,
with the battle of Trafalgar in ivory ; and a small blood-stone Mosaic

TEHERAN. 187

box for opium. The King's letter (which was mounted in a highly
ornamented blue morocco box, and covered with a case of white satin,
and an elegant net) was also laid on a piece of white satin. The
Envoy carried the letter, and I the presents. When we went forwards
to place them in the takht-e-ravan (the litter), and again, when the
procession advanced, the trumpet sounded " God save the King/'
The order of the procession was as follows :

Officers of the King of Persia,

Led horses belonging to the Envoy,

Native officers of cavalry, swords drawn,

The trumpeter,

Four troopers,

The takht-e-ravan,

Guard of native cavalry, swords drawn,

Persian officers of the Envoy's household, in scarlet and gold, dismounted,

The Envoy,

The Secretary and Gentlemen of the Mission,

Guard of native cavalry under Cornet Willock, with drawn swords,

colours displayed,
Servants, &c.

The procession proceeded through miserable streets, which were
crowded by the curious, until we came to the large Maidan, at the
entrance of which were chained a lion and a bear. It then turned to
the right, and, crossing over a bridge, entered into the Ark or fortified
Palace of the King, the building which contains every part of the
royal household. Here the Envoy, as a mark of respect to the King of
Persia, ordered the guard to sheath swords. There were troops on
both sides, and cannon in several parts, and when we reached the first
court, two very thick lines of soldiers were ranged to form an avenue
for us. They were disciplined and dressed something after our manner,

BB 2

TEHERAN.

and went through their exercise as we passed. About thirty paces
from the Imperial gate the takht-e-ravan stopped : we then dismounted*
and the Envoy and I advancing uncovered to it, took out the King's
letter and the dish of presents. We proceeded through dark passages,
until we came to a small room, where were seated Norooz Khan
(a relation of the royal family, and Ish Agassi, or Master of the
Ceremonies) and Mahomed Hussein Khan Me rvee, a favourite
of the King, and a deputy Lord Chamberlain, with other noblemen,
who were waiting to entertain us. Our presentation was to take
place in the Khalvet Khoneh, or private Hall of Audience, for it
was then the Ashooreh of the month of Moharrem, a time of mourning,
when all matters of ceremony or of business are suspended at court :
the King of Persia therefore paid a signal respect to his Britannic
Majesty, in fixing the audience of his Envoy so immediately after
his arrival, and more particularly at a season when public affairs are
so generally intermitted.

After we had sat here about half an hour, smoked, and drank
coffee, the Master of the Ceremonies informed us that the King was
ready, and we proceeded again. We entered the great court of the
Dewan Khoneh, (the Hall of Public Audience) on all sides of which
stood officers of the household, and in the centre walk were files of the
new-raised troops, disciplined after the European manner, who went
through the platoon as we passed, while the little Persian drummers
beat then drums. The line presented arms to the Envoy, and the
officers saluted. In the middle of the Dewan Khoneh was the famous
throne built at Yezd of the marble of the place, on which the King
sits in public, but to which we did not approach sufficiently near for
any accurate observation. We ascended two steps on the left, and
then passed under arched ways into another spacious court filled in
the same manner ; but the men were mostly sitting down, and did
not rise as we approached. We crossed the centre of this court, and
came to a small and mean door, which led us through a dark and

TEHERAN.

189

intricate passage. When we were arrived at the end of it we found
a door still more wretched, and worse indeed than that of any English
stable. Here Norooz Khan paused, and marshaled us in order:
the Envoy, first, with the King's letter; I followed next with the
presents, and then at the distance of a few paces the rest of the
gentlemen. The door was opened, and we were ushered into a court
laid out in canals and playing fountains, and at intervals lined by
men richly dressed, who were all the grandees of the kingdom. At
the extremity of a room, open in front by large windows, was the
King in person. When we were opposite to him, the Master of the
Ceremonies stopped, and we all made low bows ; we approached
most slowly again, and at another angle stopped and bowed again.
Then we were taken immediately fronting the King, where again we
bowed most profoundly. Our Conductor then said aloud,

" Most mighty Monarch, Director of the World,
M Sir Harford Jones, Baronet, Embassador from your Majesty's
" Brother, the King of England, having brought a letter and some
" presents, requests to approach the dust of your* Majesty's feet:
" (Hag paee moharek bashed, literally,) that the dust of your feet may
" be fortunate."

The King from the room said in a loud voice, " Khosh Amedeed,
" you are welcome." We then took off our slippers, and went into the
royal presence. When we were entered, the Envoy walked up
towards the throne with the letter; Mirza Sheffeea, the Prime
Minister, met him half way, and taking it from him, carried it up and
placed it before the King : he then came back and received the pre-
sents from my hands, and laid them in the same place. The Envoy
then commenced a written speech to the King in English, which at
first startled his Majesty, but seemed to please him much, as soon as
Jaffer Ali Khan, the English Resident at Shiraz, came forward
and read it in Persian. The original was as follows :

190

TEHERAN.

" May it please your Majesty,

" The King my Master, willing to renew and strengthen those
ties of friendship and alliance which subsisted between the Kings
of Persia and of England, has deputed me to the foot of your
Majesty's throne, with the expression of these His Royal wishes and
intentions.

" To have been charged with such a commission, I shall always
consider as the most distinguished and honourable event of my
life ; and, when I thus deliver to your Majesty the letter of my most
gracious and Royal Master, I feel confident in being honoured with
your Majesty's protection and favour.

" May the Great Disposer of all events grant your Majesty an
increase of honour and prosperity, and may the friendship and
interests of England and Persia henceforward become inseparable/'

The King then answered in return, that the states had been long
allied, and he hoped that the friendship would increase daily ; this the
Prime Minister explained. The King then said, " How does the King
" of England, my Brother ? Damaughist chauk est ? How is his
" health ?" He then asked, if this were the son of the former King, with
whose subjects he had had communications, and when he was told
that the same King was still reigning, he exclaimed, " the French
M have told lies in that also !" (For they had spread the report that
the King of England was dead.) The Envoy was then conducted to a
gilt and painted chair placed for him, an honour never paid before to
any Mission. I stood on his right; Jaffer Ali Khan on his left;
Mirza Sheffeea, the Prime Minister, next to me ; Hajee Maho-
med Hossein Khan, the Ameen-ed-Doulah, and Mirza Reza
Kooli, another of the Ministers, succeeded ; and the Master of the
Ceremonies closed the line. The other gentlemen stood in a row
behind. The King informed the Envoy that the choice which his
Brother the King of England had made of him as a Minister in
in Persia, was agreeable and acceptable to him ; he then inquired

TEHERAN.

191

about the Envoy's journey, and asked some very familiar and affable
questions. The gentlemen of the Mission were then separately intro-
duced by their names and situations ; the King said " Khosh Amedeed"
and we made very low bows. We returned with nearly the same
ceremonies as we entered the palace, except that in the outer court,
the Envoy was further honoured with a salute from three pieces of
cannon.

The King is about forty-five years of age ; He is a man of pleasing
manners and an agreeable countenance, with an aquiline nose, large eyes
and very arched eye-brows. His face is obscured by an immense
beard and mustachios, which are kept very black ; and it is only when
he talks and smiles that his mouth is discovered. His voice has once
been fine, and is still harmonious ; though now hollow, and obviously
that of a man who has led a free life. He appeared much pleased at
finding that the Envoy could talk to him in Persian, as he did indeed
after the first introductory speech; and when he was told that Sir
Harford read and studied much, he asked many questions on literary
subjects, for he professes to be a protector of learning and of learned
men. He was seated on a species of throne, called the takht-e-taoos,
or the throne of the peacock, which is raised three feet from the
ground, and appears an oblong square of eight feet broad and twelve
long. We could see the bust only of his Majesty, as the rest of his
body was hidden by an elevated railing, the upper work of the
throne, at the corners of which were placed several ornaments of vases
and toys. The back is much raised ; on each side are two square
pillars, on which are perched birds, probably intended for peacocks,
studded with precious stones of every description, and holding each a
ruby in their beaks. The highest part of the throne is composed of an
oval ornament of jewelry, from which emanate a great number of
diamond rays. Unfortunately, we were so far distant from the throne,
and so little favoured by the light, that we could not discover much of
its general materials. We were told, however, that it is covered with
gold plates, enriched by that fine enamel work so common in the orna-

192

TEHERAN.

mental furniture of Persia. It is said to have cost one hundred
thousand tomauns.

We saw the whole court to disadvantage during our first visit : it was
then the days of mourning, and the King himself did not at that time
wear his magnificent and celebrated ornaments of precious stones. He
appeared in a catebee of a very dark ground, embroidered with large
gold flowers, and trimmed with a dark fur over the shoulders, down the
the breast and on the sleeves. On his head he wore a species of cylin-
drical crown covered with pearl and precious stones, and surmounted
by a light feather of diamonds. He rested on a pillow embossed
on every part with pearl, and terminated at each extremity by a thick
tassel of pearl. On the left of the throne was a basin of water in
Avhich small fountains played ; and on its borders were placed vases
set with precious stones. On the right, stood six of the King's sons
richly dressed : they were of different sizes and ages ; the eldest of
them (brother by the same mother to the Prince of Shiraz) was the
Viceroy of Teheran, and possessed much authority in the state. On
the left behind the basin stood five pages, most elegantly dressed in
velvets and silks : one held a crown similar to that which the King wore
on his head; the second held a splendid sword; the third a shield and
a mace of gold and pearls ; the fourth a bow and arrows set with
jewels; and the fifth a crachoir similarly ornamented. When the au-
dience was finished, the King desired one of his Ministers to
inquire from J after Ali Khan (the English Agent) what the
foreigners said of him, and whether they praised and admired his
appearance.

The room in which we were introduced to the King was painted and
gilded in every part. On the left from the window is a large painting
of a combat between the Persians and Russians, in which the King
appears at full length on a white horse, and makes the most conspi-
cuous figure in the whole composition. The Persians of course
are victorious, and are very busily employed in killing the Russians,
who seem to be falling a sufficiently easy prey : at a farther end of the

TEHERAN.

193

scene is the Russian army drawn up in a hollow square, and firing
their cannon and muskets without doing much apparent execution.
Facing this great picture, is another of equal dimensions, which re-
presents the Shah in the chase, having just pierced a deer with a
javelin. In other parts are portraits of women, probably the King's
favourites, who are dancing according to the fashion of the country.

On the 19th, the Envoy visited Mirza Sheffeea, the Prime
Minister. He is an old man, of mild and easy manners, who dis-
played more knowledge of general politics than any other person
whom we met in Persia. This was our first impression, and his
subsequent management of the negociation convinced us of its ac-
curacy. He was sufficiently acquainted with all the different courts
of Europe, and knew perfectly the name of every Minister employed
either within the state or on foreign service; and was deeply versed
in the particular interests of Persia. He had acquired something of
geography, when the French Embassador and suite were his guests ;
the Persians in general, however, live in the profbundest ignorance of
every other country.

In the Ministers assembly we met Mirza Reza, who had been sent
Embassador to Buonaparte, and who entertained us with an account of
Frangistoim, [Europe.] He expatiated Avith seeming ecstasy on every
thing which he had seen; and Mirza Sheffeea, who probably had
often heard his stories, said to Sir Harford Jones, " I can believe many
" of the things which he has related to us, but one circumstance staggers
" me; he gives an account of an ass, which he saw at Vienna, with stripes
" on its back ; that I shall not believe, unless you confirm it." When
Sir Harford told him that it was very true; that there were many
such animals at the Cape of Good Hope, he was satisfied. The tra-
veller proceeded to describe every part of the Continent: when he
talked of the beauties of Vienna, and particularly when he mentioned
that the streets were lighted up at night with globe lamps, one of the
company (whose face during the different relations had exhibited
signs of much astonishment, and sometimes doubt) stopped him,

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194

TEHERAN.

and said, u I can believe any thing else but that they light the
" streets with globe lamps : you can never make me believe that. Pray
" who will pay for them?"

Mirza Sheffeea entertained us with a breakfast more elegant
than any of the similar meals to which we had been invited.
Just before we were rising to depart, the Minister, after having
talked much on the hopes which he cherished, that the friendship
of the two nations would long subsist, pulled a diamond ring
from off his own finger, and placed it on the Envoy's, saying,
" And that I may not be thought to be insincere in my profes-
" sions, let me beg of you to accept this as a pledge of my friend-
" ship for you ; and I intreat you to wear it for my sake." This gift,
unlike the generosity of Persian presents, was really handsome ; it was
a beautiful stone, perfect in all its parts.

On the 23d we were invited by the Jemidars (Indian officers) of
the Envoy's guard, to see that part of the ceremony of the Mohar-
rem which was appropriated to the day. We ascended an elevated
platform, surrounded by a great crowd of Persians and Indians, and
seated ourselves on Nummuds prepared for us. On one side was a
small ornamented temple, in which was represented the tomb of the
Jmaum; and all around it were the Indians who had changed their
regimentals for a variety of fantastical habits, after the fashion of
their own country. As every Indian can turn fakir, the greater part
had assumed that character to perform the ceremonial of this feast.
Many of them arose, and made long speeches (for every man has this
liberty) on the death of the Imaum, though they intermixed much extra-
neous matter. After this a Persian Mollah, a young man of a brisk
and animated appearance ascended a temporary pulpit, and commenced
a species of chaunted sermon proper for the day. At the end of every
period, he was answered in chorus by the multitude : and when he
was nearly at the end, and had reached the most pathetic part of his
harangue, he gave the signal for the people to beat their breasts, which
they did accordingly with much seeming sincerity, keeping time to his

TEHERAN.

195

chanting. When the Mollah had finished, a high and cumbrous pole
was brought into the scene. It was ornamented with different coloured
silks and feathers, and on the summit were fixed two curious weapons
made of tin, and intended to represent the swords of All This heavy
machine was handled by a man who, having made his obeisance to it
(by first bowing his head, then kissing it) took it up with both his
hands, and then amidst increasing applauses balanced it on his girdle,
on his breast, and on his teeth. Next, on a small temporary stage, ap-
peared several figures, who acted that part of the tragedy of the history
of the Imaum appointed for the day. It consisted of the death of
the two children of his sister Fatme, who, at the close of the
performance were killed by Ameer, one of the officers of Yezid. The
actors each held in their hands their speeches written on paper, which
they read with great action and vociferation, and excited much interest
in their audience, so that many sobbed and wept aloud ; and when the
ceremonial required the beating of breasts, many performed that part
with a species of ferocious zeal, which seemed to be jealous of louder
intonations from any breast than their own. In a part of the scene
were then introduced water-carriers, who were emblematical of the
thirst of the Imaum at his dying moments. They bore on their backs
bullocks' skins filled with water, no inconsiderable weight ; but in ad-
dition, they each received five well-grown boys, and under the united
burthen walked round a circle ten feet in diameter, three times con-
secutively.

On the following night the Envoy and I visited the Ameen-ed-Doidak
Hajee Mohamed Hossein Khan. At his house, Mirza Shef-
feea, Hajee Mohamed Hussein Khan Mervee, Fath Ali
Khan the poet, and other great men were assembled. The comme-
moration of the death of Hossein was performing in his court-yard;
and when the Mollah begun to read that part of the ceremonial
appointed for the day, the windows of the room, in which we
were seated, were thrown open, and we all changed our positions, and
sat with our faces towards the Mollah. His preaching lasted about am

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196

TEHERAN.

hour, and was followed by the representation of that part of the history
of Hossein's death, which succeeded the scene performed on the
preceding evening. First came Hossein's horse, with his turban on
the saddle. Then, in a row on chairs, were seated Yezid, with three
others ; one of whom, dressed in the European habit, represented an
European Embassador, (Elchee Firing.) Zain Labedeen, Hossein's
brother, chained, and with a triangular wooden collar round his
neck, appeared as a captive before Yezid, and was followed by his
sister and children. Ye z id's executioner treated them with much
barbarity, repelling the women when they implored his protection;
and using the captives with great insult, at the instigation of Yezid.
When Zain Labedeen, by Yezid's firman, was brought to be
beheaded, the Elchee Firing implored his pardon, which instead of
appeasing the tyrant, only produced an order for putting the Elchee
himself to death. All this scene produced great lamentation among
the spectators, who seemed to vie with each other in the excess of
their weeping, and in the display of all the signs of grief. The Prime
Minister cried incessantly ; the Ameen-ed-Dowlah covered his face
with both his hands, and groaned aloud; Mahomed Hussein
Khan Mervee made at intervals very vociferous complaints. In
some I could perceive real tears stealing down their cheeks, but in
most I suspect that the grief was as much a piece of acting as the
tragedy which excited it. The King himself always cries at the cere-
mony ; his servants therefore are obliged to imitate him. When the
mob passed the window, at which we were seated, they again beat
their breasts most furiously.

25th. This day was the last of the Moharrem, when all those,
who had performed the ceremonies peculiar to this season, appeared
before the King. He was seated in a more elevated chamber, which
looked towards the Maidan. A tent had been pitched for the Envoy,
who was invited to attend, but he was too unwell to venture out. The
representation of the day happened, indeed, to be incomplete. A
strange circumstance had occurred at a village near Teheran, winch

TEHERAN.

197

so much frightened the man appointed to personify Hossein before
his Majesty, that in fear of the same fate he absconded. His alarm
was natural, for at this village the man who performed the part of
the executioner chose to act to the letter, what was only intended as a
very bloodless representation; and when Hossein was brought before
him to be beheaded, he cut off the poor actor's head. For this the
King fined him one hundred tomauns. His Majesty was pleased to
take much notice of the Indians, whose ceremonial seemed to affect
him much more than the others. Some keep the Moharrem three
days later.

CHAP. XII.

TEHERAN.

GENERAL VIEW OF THE NEGOCIATIONS TREATIES SIGNED — EX-
CHANGED PERSIAN LETTER TO THE ENVOY PUNISHMENT OF

THEFT — EVE OF THE NOROOZ PRESENTS DISTRIBUTED BY

THE KING NOROOZ OF ANCIENT PERSIA ENTERTAINMENT

GIVEN BY THE KING ANNUAL PRESENTS AMUSEMENTS OF

THE DAY — RACES BREED OF HORSES — THE ZOOMBAREEK AR-
TILLERY INTERVIEW WITH THE MINISTERS; WITH THE KING

KALAAT FROM THE KING FRENCH TREATY PUBLICITY OF

PERSIAN DIPLOMACY GATE OF THE PALACE DISMISSAL OF

THE FRENCH LETTER TO THE KING OF ENGLAND DIS-
PATCHES PROM THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF INDIA CONDUCT

OF THE PERSIAN MINISTERS; OF THE KING APPOINTMENT

AND HISTORY OF MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, ENVOY EXTRAORDI-
NARY TO ENGLAND.

A HE details of the subsequent progress of the negociation were daily
minuted in my journal ; but they involve so many personal considera-
tions that they could not be fairly published, even if I had not acquired
the information by confidential and official opportunities. I sacrifice,

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199

therefore, but with deep regret the power of doing that justice to the
merits of the British Envoy which the simple narrative, without one com-
ment, would have afforded. I must content myself with adding, that Sir
Harford Jones succeeded in his great object; and concluded a treaty
with Persia (where the French influence had already baffled and driven
away one English agent) by which the French, in their turns, were ex-
pelled, and our influence was restored; at a time when, instead of co-
operation, he experienced only counteraction from the British Govern-
ment of India, and encountered all the rivalry of the active and able
emissaries of France.

On another motive I regret the omission of these notes. They would
have characterized, I believe with fidelity, the habits and modes of
thinking of a Persian statesman, and added an amusing document to
the annals of diplomacy. The conferences of the Plenipotentiaries
were carried on at times with the warmest contentions, at other
times interrupted by the loudest laughter on the most indifferent
subject. One night the parties had sat so long, and had talked so
much without producing conviction on either side, that the Plenipo-
tentiaries by a sort of un-official compact, fell asleep. The Prime
Minister and the Ameen-ed-Dowlah snored aloud in one place, and the
Envoy and I stretched ourselves along in another. Though on the
very first night of the discussions, the parties had separated with a full
conviction that every thing was settled ; and though the Prime
Minister himself, laying his hand on the Envoy's shoulder, had said
to him, " You have already completed what the King of England
" himself in person could not have done ;" yet the very next confer-
ence, they came forwards with pretensions alike new and extravagant.
At the close of that meeting however, the Chief Secretary was ap-
pointed to bring the Treaty written fair to the Envoy on the following
morning. Instead of this, the Prime Minister sent a large citron, and
inquired after the Envoy's health. On another occasion, the Persian
Plenipotentiaries swore that every thing should be as the Envoy

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wished, and instantly wrote out a corresponding form of Treaty, to
which (rather than start a difficulty about indifferent words) he
assented. They were then so anxious that he should immediately
attend them to the King's Summer Palace to sign, that they would not
give him time to translate it into English : he however refused to sign
a Persian treaty, till the English copy was ready. They so little
expected this refusal, that they had already, by the King's desire,
sent thirty male-loads of fruits, sherbets, and sweetmeats to celebrate
the event at the new palace ; and were of course displeased and disap-
pointed. At another time, in the middle of a very serious conversation,
the Prime Mnister stopped short, and asked the Envoy very coolly
to tell him tie history of the world from the creation. This was in-
tended as a joke upon one of the Secretaries, who was then writing
the annals of the reign of the present King. On another occasion, in
which the same Minister was deeply and personally interested, and in
which he invoked every thing sacred to attest his veracity, and con-
vince the Envoy, (now, " by the head of the King f then, " by
" Mecca " tlen, " by the salt of Fatti Att Shah") he turned to
me in a pause of his discourse, and asked if I were married, and begun
some absurd story.

These circumstances, however characteristic of the people, may
appear trifling in themselves, or at least indicative of minds, over
which an Eiropean Negociator might easily attain an ascend-
ancy. It is necessary therefore to premise, that the real diffi-
culties of oui situation were never diminished by any deficiency of
address and diplomatic finesse in the Persian Plenipotentiaries.
Every fresh cispatch which the French received from Europe, while
it contributed to raise the spirits and activity of our rivals them-
selves, enablec the Persians also to assume a higher tone of decision
between our contending interests, while the only communications from
his own countrymen which Sir Ha it ford Jones received in Persia,
were those which would have baffled the hopes and discouraged the

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enterprize of almost any other man. In the alternation of the dispo-
sitions of the court of Persia, he retained the same firm and unbending
policy, and when the influence of the French appeared to be regaining
all its preponderance, he made no one concession which he had not
offered in more favourable circumstances, and finally succeeded in
concluding a treaty almost on his own original terms, while the French
were signing every demand which the Persians made.

As a more detailed specimen however of the conduct of the negocia-
tion, I can reserve a portion of the concluding scene.

At length a night was fixed in which the Treaties were to be signed.
The Envoy and I repaired to the house of the Ameen-ed-Doulah, where
we found him and his Nazir or Superintendant, the Prime Minister,
the Chief Secretary, and the Persian Agent for English affairs at
Shiraz. The conversation after a short time fixed on learned subjects.
The Persians are extremely fond of history and geography, though in
general they are profoundly ignorant of both. The Prime Minister
went through in a breath the whole history of Russia. We then
entered on matters of chronology, which introduced a discussion
on the relative antiquity of particular remains, as Persepolis and
Nakshi Rust am. The Chief Secretary, who seemed to have read much
Persian history, knew that part which related to Shapour, and men-
tioned that he had carried his arms into Syria, and had taken prisoner
a Roman Emperor. Yet the subject of the sculptures at Nakshi Rustam
had still escaped their observation; and they had still, according to
the popular belief, substituted Rustam for Shapour, as the hero of
those representations. To this conversation, supper succeeded ; as
usual it was short.

The Treaties were then brought in, and read and approved. The
date was still wanting. Sir Harjord Jones desired them to insert
the usual form, commencing, " In witness whereof/ 1 &c. This how-
ever the Persians could not understand, and objected strenuously to the
word " witnesses," who were never introduced except into a court of

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justice. At length the Envo} r produced the precedent of treaties signed
at Constantinople, where the form is invariably used. They acquiesced
immediately : but another difficulty succeeded, " Should the year of
our Lord precede the Hejera ?" The Secretary proposed that in our
copy of the Treaty, our era should stand first, and that the order
should be reversed in that which they were to keep. At last the
Minister, who suspected that the Secretary was inclined to create
difficulties, finished every argument by declaring that "as Jesus
" Christ lived before Mahomed, there could be no doubt but that
" his tarikh should stand first/' The Secretary, who is esteemed one
of the 'first composers, and one of the best penmen in Persia, resisted
the plainness of the language, which Sir Harford dictated for the
insertion of the date, and produced something so unlike a diploma-
tic style, and so full of figurative expressions, that it was rejected
totally on our parts. Mirza Sheffeea then took up the pen, and
drew up a simpler formulary, which, with a few emendations, was
admitted. The Secretary was then desired to copy it into the Treaty ;
but he seemed indignant to find that a date was only to be plain
matter of fact, and. begged hard to make it a little finer. Mirza
Sheffeea however desired him to write as he had written, and this
was at length accomplished with great difficulty. Then came the
business of signing. The Prime Minister, Mir zaSiieffee a, first took
up the pen, and put down his own name and that of his brother Plenipo-
tentiary, who was unable to sign himself. After signing, came sealing.
The Secretary applied the seals, Mirza Sheffeea crying out to
him, Bezun, Bezun, or, " strike, strike/' as if lie had been striking a
bargain in the bazar. In the act of signing and sealing the parties
made frequent exclamations, such as, " God grant the friendship
" between the two states may be binding \" " May this prove a for?
" tunate day." " Let us hope that nothing may ever break this bond/'
To all which every one present emphatically and repeatedly resounded
" Inch Allah ! God grant it !"

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203

It had been agreed, that we should severally exchange the Treaties
which each had written. When all was over, the Envoy took up our
copy, and desired the Mi?*za to take up the other, that a formal ex-
change might be made. At this moment circumstances arose which
closed the conference abruptly. The nature of those circumstances
called forth all the dignified firmness of the Envoy, which in their
future intercourse produced the most striking courtesy and attention
from the Persian Ministers. The business was subsequently renewed
on the evening of the 15th, and in that meeting the Treaties were finally
exchanged.

On the 18th, the Envoy received a letter from an officer of high dis-
tinction at Tabriz. It is singular in itself, but it may have a new inte-
rest in the translation, which was made for me by a Persian (Jaffer
Ali Khan), and which is given in his own unaltered words :

" May you, the high in station, exalted in dignity, clothed with
splendor, the great magnificent in rank, distinguished for friendly
disposition, cream of the nobles of the Christian faith, and the select
among the great of the worshippers of the Messiah. May your ho-
nour increase, and may you be always in safety from the evil world,
and always under the protection of God Almighty. And may He
grant you all the happiness belonging to this world and the next, and
(may you) be ever merry by the blessing of God. I write you as
follows: — 1st. I don't know what complaint I am to make of my bad
fortune, that, notwithstanding the great desire I had to see you, the
Creator of the Universe had brought you to this country at a time when
I am not present there. 2d. I don't know what excuse to make to
you, that while you are there, owing to my being engaged to the
Russian affairs, I can't prove myself useful to you in order to please
myself. 3d. I have no remedy, as there are no fine articles at Ader-
bigian that I may send you, in order to prove of my regard to
you ; but the state of England and Russians are enemies to one an-
other, therefore I employ my nights and days to do injury to the
Russians, which is the only content I have at present. I hope that,

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" in the course of a short time, I may be able to send you some Russian
" heads as rarities, and as a fine present from me to you, and I hope
" to be able to meet with some opportunity to repair to the King's
" Court, where I may be happy to see you, and I will have a verbal
" conversation with you."

A chatter, belonging to one of the gentlemen of our party, having
stolen some money, the silver head of a kaleoon and other ornaments,
was ordered to receive the bastinado on the soles of his feet. He was
first thrown on his back, and his feet inserted through a cord, which
fastened them to a long pole, and then exposed horizontally. Four stout
feroshes then bastinadoed his feet until he confessed that another fellow
had been his accomplice, who was also punished in the same manner.
If the criminals had been delivered up to the King's Nasakchee Bashee,
they would have lost their lives ; for the King never pardons theft, and
orders a convicted thief to be executed instantly. The mode is as fol-
lows : two young trees are by main strength brought together at their
summits, and there fastened with cords together. The culprit is then
brought out, and his legs are tied with ropes, which are again carried up
and fixed to the top of the trees. The cords that force the trees toge-
ther are then cut ; and, in the elasticity and power of this spring, the
body of the thief is torn asunder, and left thus to hang divided on each
separate tree. The inflexibility of the King in this point has given
to the roads a security, which, in former times, was little known.

The King sent by one of his feroshes a present of two mountain goats
to the Envoy. The man was offered one hundred piastres for bringing
them, which he rejected as an inadequate reward ; former Missions
indeed had taught him to expect more profusion.

The 20th of March was the eve of the Norooz ; and as a part of the
ceremony of the season, the Arneen-ed-Doidah sent the Envoy a pre-
sent. It consisted of two plates of money, one of silver coins, and the
other of gold ; several trays of sweetmeats, one of which was decked
out in flowers and gilded ornaments like a temple; and two wax can-
dles, which were accompanied by flowers exquisitely imitated in wax.

TEHERAN.

205

The whole present amounted, by our computation, to six hundred
and fifty piastres, for which, according to the return which we made,
we paid most dearly. The wretched traffic of presents places the Per-
sian character in a very unfavourable light. The meannesses and obli-
gations to which they will submit for the sake of a present, and their
jealousies and anxieties about its amount, are at least very ridiculous.
The presents which the King distributes on the Nooroz are costly ; to
each of the chief men and officers of his court he sends a kalaat, (a dress
of honour, consisting of a complete suit of brocade with a shawl); and
he sometimes gives a horse and its caparisons. The kalaats indeed arc
furnished in specified contributions, by particular cities, (Yezd, Shiraz,
and Ispahan,) and by the Ameen-ed-Doidah ; and each kalaat is the
means of paying the servant who may bear it; as the present, which
he invariably receives as a perquisite in return is deducted from his- wages.
The number of the kalaats is reckoned at nine hundred ; and their
value, on an average of three hundred piastres, will amount to two hun-
dred and seventy thousand. Besides this, the King distributes hand-
fuls of money at his public Dewan to those who attract his favour. A
large vase of gold and silver coins mixed stands at his elbow ; in this
he puts his hand, and taking out as much as he can grasp, pours it
into the two extended palms of the man who is lucky enough to engage
his notice.

On the 21st, the weather, which had been unfavourable, cleared up,
and a fine morning was enlivened by three discharges of artillery in
honour of the Norooz.

This festival is one of those which have remained in opposition to
Mahomedanism, and was one of the first kept sacred in Persia in the
ages of the worship of fire. Richardson says, " that their chief festf-
** vals were those about the equinoxes ; the next were those of water
" at Midsummer, and of fire at the Winter solstice. The first was the
" Norooz, which commenced with their year in March, and lasted six
" days, during which all ranks seem to have participated in one gene-

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" ral joy. The rich sent presents to the poor : all were dressed in their
" holiday clothes, and all kept open house : and religious processions,
" music, dancing, a species of theatrical exhibition, rustic sports, and
" other pastimes presented a continued round of varied amusement.
" Even the dead and the ideal things were not forgotten ; rich viands
" being placed on the tops of houses and high towers, on the flavour of
" which the Peris and spirits of their departed heroes and friends were
" supposed to feast/'* To this day the festival of the Norooz retains
many of these ceremonies, though it has changed its character since
the rise of Mahomedanism in Persia, and ceases to be connected with
the religion of the country. It commences when the sun just enters
Aries, and lasts three days ; it begins the spring of nature, though it
no longer commences the civil year of the Persians, who, like all other
Mahomedans, have adopted the lunar calculation. It is still the most
solemn of the Persian festivals, as it was in the day of Chardin.
Mr. Bruce informed me of a singular fact, that it was not observed
at all on the coast of the Persian Gulph. At Teheran, however, we
saw it celebrated with great festivity. It differs from the Norooz of
ancient Persia in the diminution of its duration; and in the absence of
all religious observance : there are no processions and still less any
offerings of viands to the dead. But all on meeting in the morning
embrace and say, " Ayd mobarek ; happy festival !" as in England we
wish our friends a merry Christmas. The rich still send presents to the
poor, all are still dressed in their holiday clothes, and sports of every
kind are preserved in the season.

22d. We visited the Ameen-ed-Doulah. He was seated in his dewan
khonth, dressed in the kalaat which he had received from the King.
His mujlis or assembly was crowded by Khans of the neighbouring
districts, who had repaired to the city to pay their compliments to their

* Richardson's Dissertation, 8vo. p. 184.

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207

superior on the Norooz. These, indeed, were far from conforming to
the custom of displaying their holiday clothes, and whether through
policy or through want, bore on their dress all the marfcs of poverty
and misery.

On the 24th, the Envoy was invited to an entertainment, which the
King gave. We proceeded to the palace, and having gone through
the great gate, leading into the Ark, or more immediate residence of
the King, we dismounted at the gate which opens into the Maid an
and the first great court of the palace. Opposite to this gate is
another; in an open room at the summit of which, the King was
seated. We walked across the court, and were led through many
passages, and ascended many intricate flights of steps, until we
reached the roof of the buildings on the right of the Shah. Over this
roof, which in many places was of difficult access, we scrambled, until
we came to a little tent prepared for us, which was pitched on the
summit of a door-way, close to the King's room.

The court, in which the different exhibitions were to take place,
appeared to us to be near two hundred feet square. On each side of
the great gate were sixteen arched compartments, each of which
opened into a small room. In the centre was a high pole, with a truck
at the top, and small projections for the convenience of ascending it.
This pole is for the purpose of horse exercises, and shooting at the
mark. Close under the room in which the Shah was seated, was a
basin of water, on the other side of which were erected the poles and
ropes of a rope-dancer. In a circle round these, were fire- works placed
in various forms and quantities. Four figures of paper and linen
dressed like Europeans were erected on high, and surrounded with
fire-works. At a distance were elephants of paper, stuck all over
with rockets ; on all the walls were rockets ; and, in short, fire-works
were placed in every direction. Opposite to the Shah in two lines
were the new raised troops, with drummers standing in a row at the
furthermost extremity. In the centre of these was the Nasakchee
Bashce, who appeared as the director of the entertainment. He had

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a stick in his hand, and wore on his head a gika, a distinguishing
ornament borne by particular people only, to whom the King grants
the liberty. •*

The first ceremony was the introduction of the presents from the
different provinces. That from Prince Hossein Ali Mirza, Gover-
nor of Shiraz, came first. The Master of the Ceremonies walked up,
having with him the conductor of the present, and an attendant, who,
when the name and titles of the donor had been proclaimed, read
aloud from a paper the list of the articles. The present from Prince
Hossein Ali Mirza, consisted of a very long train of large trays
placed on men's heads, on which were shawls, stuffs of ali sorts, pearls,
&c. ; then many trays filled with sugar, and sweetmeats ; after
that many mules laden with fruit, &c. Sec. Sec. The next present was
from Mahomed Ali Khan, Prince of Hamadan, the eldest born of
the King's sons, but who had been deprived by his father of the suc-
cession, because the Georgian slave who bore him was of an extraction
less noble than that of the mothers of the younger Princes. His
present accorded with the character which is assigned to him ; it
consisted of pistols and spears, a string of one hundred camels, and as
many mules. After this came the present from the Prince of Yezd,
another of the King's sons, which consisted of shawls and the silken
stuffs, the manufacture of his own town. Then followed that of the
Prince of Mesched; and last of all, and the most valuable, was that
from Hajee Mohamed Hossein Khan, Ameen-ed-Doulah. It
consisted of fifty mules, each covered with a fine Cashmire shawl, and
each carrying a load of one thousand tomauns.

The other offerings had been lodged in the Sandeck Khona, (literally,
Trunk Office). This was conveyed in a different direction to the
Treasury. Each present, like the first, contained a portion of sugar
and sweetmeats. When all the train had passed in procession, one by
one before the King, the amusements commenced.

First came the rope-dancer : a boy about twelve years old, ascended
the rope, and paced it backwards and forwards. The same rope was

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209

continued to the roof of the room in which the King was seated,
making first an angle of forty degrees, and then, in a second flight, an
angle of fifty degrees, with its horizontal extension. The boy balancing
himself with his pole, walked up the first steadily, and with very
little more difficulty ascended the second, while the music below ani-
mated him in his progress. He then, with the same steadiness
descended, walking backwards, and safely reached the horizontal
rope. After this a man in a kind of petticoat began a dance of the
most extravagant attitudes. A large elephant which had been in
waiting amid the crowd, was next brought forward, was made to give
a shriek, and then to kneel down, paying as it were his selaam to the
King. A company of wrestlers succeeded ; and every one, who threw
his antagonist on his back, ran before the King and received a tomaun.
When ten such feats had been successively performed, a man led in a
bear, with which in his turn he wrestled. But the bear always had the
advantage ; and when his antagonist attempted to throw him into the
basin of water, the bear got so much out of humour, that if he had not
been deprived of his teeth, he would probably have demolished the
unlucky assailant. Then rams were brought into the arena, and in
several couples fought for some time with much obstinacy. A poor
ox was next introduced, and after him a young lion. The scene,
which we had witnessed at Shiraz, was here repeated. The ox was
scarcely suffered to walk, before the lion was let loose upon him;
twice was the lion dragged off, and twice permitted to return to the
charge, which he always made in the rear, and of which the success
was secure and easy. A less bloody display succeeded ; a bear was
brought forwards by a company of looties or mountebanks, and
danced for some time to the rude noise and music of its leaders.
Then came a man who, on his bare head balanced, among other things,
two high vases full of water, which another was to break with his cane.
To all these different performers, the King threw different sums, as
he was severally pleased with their tricks and feats. At sunset his
Majesty retired to say his Namaz, (prayers) when his Nokara Khanah,

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that is his trumpets and drums, played as usual. At this moment
the Envoy retired, happy to escape the noise and smoke of the fire-
works, which were to close the entertainment.

25th. The King held the races, at which also the Envoy was desired
to be present. From the Casvin gate, at which we left the city, we
proceeded about half a mile to a fine even part of the country, where
a tent was pitched for the King. All his new raised troops were
arranged on the right and in front of it. On the left, facing the tent,
we stood in a line, near the Ministers, Mirza Sheffeea, and the
Ameen-ed-Doidah. Directly opposite his Majesty were eight of his
sons, richly dressed in velvet and gold-brocade coats, all glittering
with gold and jewels. One of these carried by his side his father's
bow and his quiver thickly set with precious stones. The Master of
the Ceremonies, in the field, was a young Persian who carried an
ornamented and gilded spear. One or two of the Princes were
mounted on white horses, the legs, belly, and lower parts of the buttock
of which were dyed a rich orange colour, terminated at the top by
little flowers. The Persians much admire this species of disfigurement,
nor in the East is their taste singular. At about fifty paces distance
from the Princes, stood the King's band of music with a troop of
lootics and their monkies. The state elephants were on the ground, on
the largest of which the King, seated in a very elegant howdar, rode
forth from the city.

When he alighted he was saluted by a discharge of zomhoorehs ;
the salute indeed is always fired when the King alights from his horse
or mounts. In one of the courts of the palace at Shiraz we had pre-
viously noticed this artillery. The zomboorek is a small gun mounted
on the back of a camel. The conductor from his seat behind guides the
animal by a long bridle, and loads and fires the little cannon without
difficulty. He wears a coat of orange-coloured cloth, and a cap with
a brass front; and his camel carries a triangular green and red flag.
Of these there were one hundred on the field ; and Avhen their salute
was fired they retreated in a body behind the King's tent, where the

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211

camels were made to kneel down. Collectively they make a fine mili-
tary appearance. This species of armament is common to many
Asiatic states, yet the effect at best is very trifling. The Persians, how-
ever, place great confidence in their execution; and Mirza Shef-
feea, in speaking of them to the Envoy, said, M These are what the
" Russians dread."

No exhibition could be more miserable than the races, the immediate
object of our excursion. They are intended to try rather the bottom
than the speed of the horses. The prize is what the King may be
pleased to give to the first jockies. On this occasion there were two
sets, that came severally from a distance of twelve and twenty-one
miles ; each consisted of about twelve ill-looking horses, mounted by
boys of ten or twelve years old, who were wretchedly dressed in a shirt
and pair of breeches, boots and cap. In each race the King's horses
won, of course. Horses are trained in this manner for a reason suffi-
ciently obvious, in a country where the fortunes of the state and of
every individual are exposed to such sudden changes. Every one likes
to be prepared with some mode of escape, in case of pursuit ; now
horses thus inured to running will continue on the gallop for a day to-
gether, whilst a high conditioned and well-fed animal would drop at
the end of ten miles. For this reason the King always keeps himself
well supplied with a stud of this description, as a resource in the event
of an accident. When, on the death of his uncle, Aga Mahomed
Khan, He was summoned (by Hajee Ibrahim, the Minister of the
late King) to assume as the heir the sovereignty, he thus travelled from
Skiraz to Teheran, a distance of five hundred miles in six days.

In the interval of the race, the King sent the Master of the Cere-
monies to desire the Envoy and his suite to come before him. We dis-
mounted from our horses, and proceeded with the Prime Minister and
the Ameen-ed-Doulah, before the King's presence, making low bows as
we advanced. When we were about twenty steps from his Majesty we
stopped and made our final low bow. The King was seated on a high

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chair under a canopy, the sides of which were formed of gold cloth,
and of looking glasses. The chair itself was beautifully embroidered
with enamelled flowers and other ornaments ; on one of the arms was
a pot of flowers, and on the other a vase of rose-water. On one side
was spread a velvet and gold cloth carpet with the pearl pillow. The
King was in his riding dress, a close coat of purple velvet embroidered
in pearl, the sheep-skin cap, and a pair of Bulgar boots. As he was
placed in a good light, we had an excellent view of him. His manners
are perfectly easy and unconstrained, with much dignity and affability.
He first inquired after the Envoy's health, of whose good qualities the
two Ministers then entered into an immense eulogium, praising him in
terms the most extravagant. Then the names of all the party were
mentioned to the King, and each was asked how he did. All the con-
versation was complimentary ; and when the comparison was made be-
tween us and the French, the King said, " they were haivans, beasts,
" wild men, savages. These are gentlemen."

After the whole was over we returned to our horses. The King then
mounted, and the salute was fired from the zombooreks. His infantry
first marched off the ground ; they were dressed differently in black or
in crimson-velvet jackets, in loose breeches of crimson or yellow silk,
black sheep-skin caps and light boots. The King passed us at a dis-
tance on horseback, and we made our bows. He was preceded by a
body of chatters, who are dressed with fantastical caps on their heads,
and lively coloured clothes. No other person was near him, nor in-
deed is any other permitted. The King of Persia is an insulated
being, alone in his court. How different is the state of the Sultan at
Constantinople, who is almost concealed by the crowds of his attendants.
The Princes followed, and then the mob. After this we repaired to a
tent, where the Ameen-ed-Doulah had prepared a Persian breakfast
for us.

On the 26th, the negotiating parties met to discuss a point reserved
in the Treaty. The conference terminated without any decision : and

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in this state of uncertainty the question remained for three days, when
we were told that it had been decided to our satisfaction ; and that I
was to see the King on the 30th, and to depart for England as soon
after as possible.

On the 30th, accordingly the Envoy and I breakfasted with the Mi-
nister, in the expectation of our introduction to the King. His Ma-
jesty, however, had gone to ride to Shcm-Iroun (" the Candle of Persia,")
a village under the mountain, celebrated for the beauty of the situation
and the salubrity of its air. We remained with the Minister all the
morning. The Ameen-ecl-Doulah was there; his spirits were depressed
by the intelligence which he had received from Ispahan, (the govern-
ment of his son) that the melting of the snow and rain had so swoln
the Zaiande-rood, that it had overflowed and injured the country to the
amount of three lacks of piastres. It had destroyed, besides many
houses and buildings, a large bund or dam, nearly opposite to the
Chahar Bagh No. The bund was the work of Abbas, and had cost
about twenty times the labour of that at Kohrood. The whole damage
was reckoned at thirty lacks of piastres. Kanauts were filled up, and
large tracts of rich and productive land were rendered useless for the
year. At Ispahan, the water filled the under arches of the fine bridge
of Aliverdy Khan, that goes into the great Chahar Bagh. This inunda-
tion extended over many districts. An express announced that the river
at Pool Dallauk was over the bridge : and that the country was in many
places so inundated as to be only passable with much danger and
difficulty. The great salt swamp was particularly deep.

The 13th of the month Sefer is looked upon as most unlucky among
the Persians ; they do not keep in the house on tiiis day, but rather
walk out into the fields, in order that nothing may disturb their
humours, for a quarrel with any one on this day will entail misfortune
through the remainder of the year.

On the 31st we went to the King;. At this audience He was seated
in a room in a square court called the Gidistan, a name derived from
the roses, with which (intermixed with cypress and chenar trees) it was

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planted. We were introduced into it by the two Ministers, through a
door small and mean, like those in other parts of the palace, and which
are obviously adapted for more easy defence in the event of any
sudden alarm. In the centre of the garden is a Koola-frangee, built
by Aga Mahomed Khan. The garden itself was arranged in
squares, with some miserable palings. Peacocks and hens, great
favourites in Persia, were every where walking about. After having
paraded through the garden in various directions, (for this also is a part
Of the ceremonial) we finally approached the presence. We took
off our slippers at some distance, and walking on the bare stones,
stepped up a difficult staircase into a small and elegant room, in which
his Majesty was seated. At the foot of the staircase was a row of
eunuchs ; and at the top several officers. At our entrance the King
desired us to be seated, but we excused ourselves and stood. His
Majesty's throne was that on which he had appeared at our first
audience. The Envoy had complained to the Minister, that on that
occasion we had no favourable opportunity of seeing the King ; and
his Majesty had probably been informed of the disappointment, and
had condescended in consequence to gratify our curiosity by trans-
fering his throne to a more favourable position, and displaying himself
upon it in all the magnificence of his state. He was dressed in a light
coat of scarlet and gold cloth ; on his shoulders were large layers of
pearl and precious stones. On each of his arms were three rows of
jewels called the bazebunds ; these are his finest jewels, one of which
(the Dereea Nore) is one of the largest in the world. Though set in a
clumsy manner, they had a rich and royal effect. Round his waist he
wore a band about four inches broad of pearl, connected in the middle
by a clasp, the centre of which was an emerald of an immense size.
In this band he wore a brilliant dagger ; from it also dangled a tassel of
pearl, which he continually kept in his hand as a plaything. His
kaleoon is a beautiful toy : it stood in the left corner of the throne, and
was one blaze of precious stones.

On the right of his throne stood four pages, one holding his crown,

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215

another his shield and mace, a third his bow and arrows, and a fourth
his sword. All these are beautiful, particularly his crown : it is in
every part thickly inlaid with pearl, emeralds, rubies and diamonds ; on
the summit is a gika of precious stones, on the sides of which are
plumes of herons' feathers.

His Majesty talked with much familiarity ; and asked us, what news
from the Yenzee Dwieea, that is, the new world, as they call America.
He inquired, " What sort of a place is it? How do you get at it ? Is
" it under ground, or how ?" He then talked of our government ; and
appeared aware that the Kings of England could do little without the
intervention of their parliament. In the explanations which followed
this subject, his Persian Majesty was visibly astonished that any limit-
ation could be placed to Royal authority. The conversation turned ;
and the King talked of Buonaparte, and launched out in general
terms against the French. After the introduction of some other topics,
His Majesty dismissed us by a nod of his head, desiring that a kalaat
might be given to me, and that a Mehmandar might be appointed to
attend me on my journey.

On the 4th April his Persian Majesty sent me my kalaat or dress of
of honour: it consisted of a kaba or brocade coat that covered me all
over ; a small outer coat trimmed with fiir over the shoulders and down
the back, called the coordee; a brocade sash; and (what I believe is
considered a great distinction) a sword. The King was pleased to ask
what I should like best to receive as a mark of his Royal regard, and
when it was left to his Majesty's decision, He sent me a sword which he
had worn himself. His own name was upon it, by which all his Majesty's
swords are known. All these things were contained in a piece of white
linen (the sword lying on the top), and were brought in some state by
an officer of the royal household. When they were put into my hands,
I carried them respectfully to my head, and then retired and put on
the different articles. When I came out again lull dressed, every body
congratulated me by 'd"moobarek bashea," ("good luck attend you/ J ) I
continued in .this garb for the remainder of the day, although, according

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to Persian etiquette, I ought to have worn it for the three days following
the investiture.

In the evening we went to the Prime Minister's, and were shewn the
Treaty with France, signed and ratified at Finkenstcin, by Buona-
parte, in May 1807- It was written on vellum, in a beautiful French
hand, and inserted in a cover of black velvet, curiously and elegantly
wrought with a spread eagle at each corner, and the initial N in the
centre, in a wreath of gold embroidery. The Great Seal was pendant
from it, inserted in a plain gold box. The treaty was countersigned
by Talleyrand; and by Maret, the Plenipotentiary appointed to
treat with Mi rz a Reza, the Persian Plenipotentiary. I copied this
document (consisting of fourteen articles) in the room, and as we went
away, the Minister sent the Envoy the Commercial Treaty, w r hich con-
tained twenty-eight articles.

The 6th was observed as a holiday among the Persians, as the
commemoration of that, when Hossein's head, which had been severed
from his body by Yezid at Kerbelai, was buried, after an interval of
forty days.

The affairs of Persia are conducted with a publicity which would ill
accord with the diplomacy of Europe. As that stipulation, which
was the surest evidence of the permanent dispositions of the Court, re-
mained unfulfilled ; the Envoy on the 9th of April dispatched, by
Jaffer Ali Khan and myself, an official note on the subject to the
Ministers, which he desired them to lay before the King. We carried
it to the Der a Khoneh Shah, or gate of the King's palace, where there
are offices for the Ministers and Secretaries to transact the business of
the state ; and where they assemble every day to be ready whenever
the King may call them. Here we seated ourselves in the public room
among all the officers of the court, waiting for Mirza Sheffeea,
and the Ameen-ed-Doulah, who were then before the King. In a
back room were men counting money ; in that, in which we sat, were
the Chief Secretary, Mirza Reza, and Ismael Beg Damgaunee,
(the King's favourite, and commander of the body-guard) and several

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217

others all occupied in writing, talking, or smoking. When the Ministers
arrived, I delivered the public letter accompanied by a private note
from the Envoy. Mirza Sheffeea then unfolded the official note.
There were perhaps twenty people in the court near the window where
the Mirza sat, who looked over the paper, and knew its contents as
soon and as well as the Minister himself; and all my expostulations
could not procure their removal. When the Minister had read it, he
told us he would lay it before the King, and then desired us to retire
to another room, where we might eat, drink, and put ourselves at our
ease, until the King should send for us.

We went to a room in another part of the palace, and sat there full
five hours, during which time we had a visit from a son of the Ameen-
ed-Doulah, a young man who has the great post of Comptroller of the
Household to the King. His business is to provide for the King's
kitchen, to see every thing before it goes to the King, and to super-
intend every part of the eating and drinking concerns of the establish-
ment. Whilst we were seated with him, four round trays of lettuces,
in the centre of which was a gold vase of vinegar and syrup, Were
brought before him. He inspected them, tasted the syrup, and ap-
proved them fit for his Majesty's eating. After that, two young
Georgian slaves were brought in for sale, for one of whom the master
asked one hundred and fifty tomauns. The five hours, which we
passed here, were long and melancholy : the only amusements which
were provided to cheer us, were a dish of lettuces, the chief carver,
and some specimens of writing : on the latter indeed every one in the
company, except myself, could comment at full length. The Persians
are great admirers of fine writing, or, more strictly, of penmanship,
to excel in which requires, according to their estimate, a practice
of twenty years.

At length we were summoned before the King. Preceded by the
two Ministers, we passed through the same dirty door, into the same
garden in which we had been at the last audience : we made as many

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TEHEKAN.

bows as before, and took off our slippers at the same place; but water
had been thrown on the ground, and this last ceremony was therefore
very disagreeably contrasted with our former introduction ; for instead
of the fine gold- wrought carpet in the King's room, we were now
reduced to stand on a wet brick pavement by the side of a basin of
water. His Majesty having first inquired after the Envoy's health,
and made some preliminary compliments, reverted to the official note
which had been communicated to him that morning by his Ministers.
After a short explanation, the King proceeded ; and seating himself
erect on his throne, in a convenient talking position, talked without
intermission for a considerable time with much animation and action.
We then returned to the room which we had first entered in the
morning.

The Prime Minister sat down close to the window to return an
answer to the Envoy's official communication. Several servants, who
were at the window, read this note, word by word as it was written ;
so that the original and the answer were equally well known to the
public. The Mirza repeated to us his letter, and then sending the at-
tendants away, desired to have some conversation with us. The dis-
cussion was unsatisfactory, and wc returned.

In these circumstances the decision of the Envoy's character secured
the object of his mission. The point was gained, and it was settled
accordingly that he should see the King on the morrow. On the
morrow accordingly, Mr. Bruce and I, dressed in our kalaats, attended
him to the King.

His Majesty was seated in the Koola built by Aga Mahomed
Khan, in the Gidistan. He was on a chair, and dressed in a shawl
coat. He was very gracious, told the Envoy that he had determined
upon our alliance, promised that the French should be dismissed, and
hoped that after the decision which he had thus made, His Brother
of England would not dissent.

The room was covered on all its sides with looking-glass ; of this also,

TEHERAN.

219

the dome which surmounted the whole, was composed. A handsome
chandelier was suspended from the centre, and three fountains of water
played beneath it.

On the 15th Mr. Bruce was sent to Bushire to proceed to India.
The French, in consequence of the Envoy's successful representations,
were preparing to leave Teheran immediately. Their Embassador,
General Gardanne, wanted to go to Russia through Georgia;
but the court of Persia justly fearing in such a quarter the influence of
that resentment, (which, since the signing of our Preliminary Treaty
the French had not scrupled to express) refused the permission ; and
the King ordered his son, the Prince Governor of Aderbigian, to give
the French mission an escort of one hundred men, by the way of Arz~
roum, and on no account to permit any deviation from that route.

We went before the King ; His Majesty's conversation was quite
enlivening. He swore that it was by Him that Buonaparte was
made the man that he is, and that in the course of the next year he
would be destroyed. We received His Majesty's letter to the King of
England. It was richly gilt and ornamented with flowers. The seal
was on a separate piece of paper, and placed at the foot of the letter ;
according to an old Persian etiquette, when the King addresses an
equal : when He writes to an inferior, the seal is affixed to the top.
In composition, Persian critics pronounced this letter perfect; the
Chief Secretary had been employed in it several days ; and that to the
Minister for Foreign Affairs was intended to be equally fine, and
indeed to comprehend all the politics of the world within its pages.

Under these circumstances, on the night of the 23d, a letter arrived
from the Governor-General in India, of which it might be improper to
disclose the contents, further than to remark, that they placed His
Majesty's Envoy Extraordinary in a situation of peculiar embarrass-
ment, from which nothing but the most friendly disposition in the
Persian court could have relieved him. It is due to the King of Persia
himself to add, that He condescended to treat Sir Harford Jones
on this occasion with the most gratifying evidences of his protection

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TEHERAN.

and individual favour : and His Ministers united in displaying the
greatest personal kindness towards us. Throughout the whole manage-
ment of a new and very delicate situation, their proceedings were so
plain, so upright, and so cheering ; so eager to shew respect and con-
fidence to the Envoy, that we regarded them with the liveliest grati-
tude ; and felt relieved by finding among strangers all the heart and
principle of countrymen and brothers.

The French Embassador was already dismissed ; and in a few days
the King sent an order to the remainder of the legation to quit Tehe-
ran immediately. The people were then as inveterate against the French
as they had before been disposed to court them. When Messrs. Jou-
ann in and Nerciat prepared to obey this order, and were leaving
the city, the mule-drivers (hired by the King for the conveyance of
their baggage, and sent forwards in the usual form) stopped at the gate,
and cutting the lading from their beasts, threw every thing upon the
ground, and ran off. One of the Frenchmen struck a mule-driver in
the breast with his dagger.

On the 29th Mirza Abul Hassan, brother-in-law to the Ameen-cd-
Doulahy and nephew to the late Prime Minister Hajee Ibrahim,
was appointed as Envoy Extraordinary from the King of Persia to
accompany me to England. The particulars of his history, which, I
learned on good authority, may afford some lights on the internal ad-
ministration of his country, and will at least be acceptable to those
who were interested by his appearance at the Court of London.

Mirza Abul Hassan was born at Shiraz in the year of the Hejera
1190, or 1776 of the Christian iEra. He was the second son of Mirza
Mahomed Ali, a man famous in Persia as an accomplished scholar,
and who was one of the Chief Secretaries and Mirzas of the celebrated
Nadir Shah. His father's services had nearly been requited by an
ignominious and cruel death, when the hand of Providence interposed
for his safety, to strike with more severity the head of his atrocious
master. Nadir Shah, in one of those paroxysms of cruelty so com-
mon to him during the latter years of his life, ordered that Mirza

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221

Mahomed Ali should be burnt alive, together with two Hindoos, who
also had incurred his displeasure. The unfortunate Mirza, on hearing
his sentence, remonstrated with the tyrant, entreating him that he might
at least be permitted to die alone; and that his last moments might not
be polluted by the society of men, who were of a different faith from
his own, and on whom he had been taught to look with a religious ab-
horrence. To this the Shah consented, remitting his death until the
next morning, whilst the Hindoos suffered in that same hour. That
very night Nadir Shah was assassinated in his tent, and Mirza
Mahomed Ali was saved.

The family of Mirza Abu l Hassan rose to its greatest power during
the reign of Aga Mohamed Shah, predecessor to the present King.
The Mirza s father died in the service of Kerim Khan; his uncle
Hajee Ibrahim Khan (uncle by his mother's side) attained the post
of Prime Vizier, whilst himself and the other branches of his family
enjoyed the greatest share in the administration of the affairs of the
state. It was somewhat before the death of Aga Mohamed Shah,
that Ha j r. b Ibrahim bestowed his daughter in marriage on his nephew,
after a long and singular courtship. A sister of his wife's is married
to Mahomed Taki Mirza, one of the King's sons; and a second
to the Ameen-ed-Doidah, the second Vizier.

The family, however, was not always prosperous; after some time
the King ordered Hajee Ibrahim to be put to death, his relations to
be seized, his wives to be sold, and his property to be confiscated. His
nephews of course partook of the disaster : one was deprived of his
sight, and remains to this day at Shiraz ; the youngest, then twenty
years of age, died under the bastinado; and the second, Mirza Abul
Hassan, who was then the Governor of Shooster, was dragged to the
capital as a prisoner. The circumstances of his seizure and escape
from death are better described in his own words. He told me, " I was
" ask* p when the King's officers entered into my room : they seized
" me, stripped me of my clothes, and, tying my hands behind my
u back, dragged me to Room, where the King then was ; treating me

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during the march with all the rigour and intemperance that generally
" befals a man in disgrace. The moment I reached Koom, the King
" pronounced the order for my execution : I was already on my knees,
" my neck was made bare, and the executioner had unsheathed his
" sword to sever my head from my body, when the hand of the
" Almighty interposed, and a messenger in great haste announced my
" reprieve. I was indebted for my life to a man who had known me
" from my boyhood, and who had long cherished me as his son. This
" worthy man, by name Mirza Reza Kouli, the moment he heard
" the sentence of death passed upon me, threw himself at the feet of
" the King, and, pleading my youth and inoffensiveness, entreated that
" I might be pardoned. The King yielded to his entreaties ; my par-
" don was announced ; and I still live to praise the Almighty for his
" great goodness and commiseration towards me."

After his providential escape Mirza Abul Hassan, (fearing that the
King might repent of his lenity towards him) fled from his country,
although he had received his Majesty's order to go to Shiraz, and to re-
main there : he left Persia with the determination of never more return-
ing, until the disgraces of his family had been obliterated, and until the
the wrath of the King against him had entirely subsided. He fled
first to Shooster, the city in which he had so recently been all-powerful ;
and there he experienced the hospitality for which the Arabs are so
justly renowned. As his administration had been lenient and temperate
he found a host of friends ready to relieve him ; and on quitting Shooster,
miserable and destitute of even the common necessaries of life, the in-
habitants came to him in a crowd and forced seven thousand piastres
upon him. From Shooster he went to Bussora, he then crossed through
the heart of Arabia, frequently obliged to proceed on foot, for want
of an animal to carry him, until he reached Mecca. On this journey he
visited Deriyih, the capital of Abdul Assiz, the then chief of the
Wahabees* From Mecca he went to Medina ; and having performed all
the devotions of a pilgrim he returned to Bussora. At Bussora he learnt
that the King was still inveterate against his family; and, finding an

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English ship on the point of sailing for India, he embarked on board
of her, and shortly after reached Calcutta, at the time when the
Marquis Wellesley was Governor-General of India. From Calcutta
he went to Moorshedabad, then to Hyderabad, Poonah, and Bombay ;
having remained altogether about two years and a half in India. At
Bombay he received a firman from the King to return to Persia ; by
which he was assured of the King's forgiveness, and of his having been
received into favour. He obeyed the firman, and ever since has en-
joyed the royal protection. He has not, indeed, occupied any specific
post under government, but has been the Homme d* Affaires to his brother-
in-law the Ameen-ed-Doulah, second Vizier and Lord Treasurer, by
which means he has been continually in active and useful life, until he
was nominated the King of Persia's Envoy Extraordinary to the Court
of England.

CHAP. XIII.

TEHERAN.

I. TEHERAN THE KING'S HAREM FAMILY PALACE OF THE

TAKHT-A-CADJAR PRODUCTIONS OF PERSIA MANUFACTURES

CLIMATE OF TEHERAN UNHEALTHINESS FAITH IN HAFIZ

PERSIAN MEDICINE SUPERSTITIONS ENVIRONS OF TEHERAN

MOUNTAIN DEMAWEND RUINS OF REY ANCIENT PERSIA

GUEBRES. II. RANKS IN PERSIA GOVERNMENT REVENUE

LANDED PROPERTY ROYAL TREASURE COINAGE ESTABLISH-
MENTS OF THE CROWN POPULATION OF PERSIA TRIBES

MILITARY SERVICE BODY-GUARDS GUARDS OF THE CITY —

PERSIAN DRESSES CHARACTER.

J. EHERAN, the present capital of Persia, is situated, as I ascer-
tained by a meridional observation, in lat. 35°. 40. It is in circum-
ference between four and a half and five miles, if we might judge from
the length of our ride round the walls, which indeed occupied an hour
and a half: but from this we must deduct something for the deviations
necessary from the intervention of the gardens, and the slaughter-houses.
There are six gates, inlaid with coloured bricks and with figures of tigers
and other beasts in rude mosaic : their entrance is lofty and domed ;

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225

and they are certainly better than those that we had then seen in any of
the fortified places of Persia. To the N. W. are separate towers. We
saw two pieces of artillery, one apparently a mortar, the other a long
gun. The ditch in some parts had fallen in, and was there supported
by brick work.

The town itself is about the size of Shiraz; but it has not so many
public edifices : and, as it is built of bricks baked in the sun, the whole
has a mud-like appearance. Of the mosques, the principal is the
Mesjid Shah, a structure not yet finished. There are six others, small
and insignificant ; and three or four medr esses or colleges. There are
said to be one hundred and fifty caravanserais, and one hundred and
fifty hummums or baths. There are two ?naidans ; one in the town, the
other within the ark, a square fortified palace, which contains all the
establishments of the King, is surrounded by a wall and ditch, and is
entered by two gates.

The Harem is most numerous, and contains a female establishment
as extensive as the public household. All the officers of the King's
court are there represented by females. There are women feroshes, and
there is a woman ferosh bashee ; women chatters, and a woman chatter
bashee ; there is a woman arz beggee, and a woman ish agassi ; in short,
there is a female duplicate for every male officer ; and the King's ser-
vice in the interior of the harem is carried on with the same etiquette
and regularity, as the exterior economy of his state. The women of
the harem, who are educated to administer to the pleasures of the
King by singing and dancing, are instructed by the best masters that
the country can supply. An Armenian at Shiraz was unfortunately
renowned for performing excellently on the kamouncha. The fame of
his skill reached the King's ears, and he was immediately ordered up
to court on the charge of being the best kamouncha player in his
Majesty's dominions. The poor man, who had a wife and family and
commercial concerns at Shiraz, was during our stay detained at Tehe-
ran expressly to teach the King's women the art of playing on the
kamouncha.

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TEHERAN.

The King's family consists of sixty-five sons. As they make no ac-
count of females, it is not known how many daughters he may have;
although he is said to have an equal number of both sexes. It some-
times happens, that many of his women are delivered on the same
night, and (if we might give credit to a Persian) one of these happy
coincidences occurred during our abode in the capital, when in one
night six of his women were brought to bed, four of sons and two of
daughters. The Ameen-ed-Doulah had one, indeed, of the babes at his
house ; and a present was sent for it from Ispahan, composed of four
mules laden with all sorts of rich clothes.

The Tahkt-a-Cadjar is a pleasure-house built by the present King,
about two miles to the N. E. of Teheran. At a distance it presents a
grand elevation, apparently of several stories ; but these, on a nearer
view, are the fronts of successive terraces. The entrance is through an
indifferent gate, at the top of which is a summer-house. It leads into a
spacious enclosure : in the middle is the principal walk, bounded on each
side by some young cypress and poplar trees, and intersected at right
angles in the centre by a stone channel, which conducts a stream at
several intervals to small cascades. The building which stands on the
first terrace is in form octagonal, crowned by a small flat roofed eleva-
tion. It is open by arches on all its sides, and its raised ceiling is sup-
ported by pillars. Its interior is arranged in a variety of water-
channels, and through the centre passes the principal stream, which
runs through the whole building and grounds. This little pleasure-
house, though built of coarse materials and but rudely furnished, is
erected on an excellent model, and is admirably calculated for the heats
of the summer. Under it are subterraneous chambers. Proceeding
further on another terrace is a grand pleasure-house, constructed on a
less perfect principle than that of the first, though still sufficiently
adapted for a summer retreat. Through this also water is introduced
from a terrace above. Before this place is a very extensive square of
water, in which, as we were told, there were fish; we saw none, but
the water itself is most luxuriously clear and refreshing. From this

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227

we ascended up two terraces much more elevated than the first ; on
these there were only small reservoirs, from which the water was conti-
nually falling into the basins on the successive descents, at the height
perhaps of twenty feet between each terrace.

At length we entered the main body of the building, which, like
all other Persian houses, consists of a large square court lined on all
sides with rooms of various dimensions and uses. The choicest apart-
ment of the whole is a small one, placed in the very summit of the
building, where every species of native workmanship in painting,
glazing, and Mosaic, has been collected. We found here portraits of
women, Europeans as well as Persians. The glass is beautifully painted,
and the doors are prettily worked and inlaid with poetical quotations
carved in ivory. From this there is a delightful view of the town and
country. In the other rooms below, there are several pictures of the
King and his favourites ; one of the subjects is singular, as it represents
His Majesty in the costume of a sick man.

The whole of this place is of brick, except the exterior wall, which
is mud, flanked however by brick turrets. It is much inferior in
workmanship to any of the brick buildings either of Ke rim Khan,
or of the Seffis. The soil on which it is erected is indeed ill-adapted
to the purpose, as it is salt ; and the salt oozes out through the walls,
and materially undermines their solidity.

The King is building another summer residence, half a mile from
the town, called the Negaristan. One house is finished, consisting how-
ever of only an arched room, in which are various channels for water
and playing fountains. In the garden we found water cresses, of
the eatableness of which the Persians appeared totally ignorant.

The climate of Teheran is variable, in consequence of its situation
at the foot of high mountains, which on the other side are backed by
such a sea as the Caspian. For the earlier part of our stay it was
moderate ; till the 10th of March the thermometer, which was sus-
pended near an open window in a room unexposed to the sun, was

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at 51° Fahrenheit. On the 10th, throughout the whole day, there
was much snow ; indeed on the following morning, when the thermo-
meter was at 47°, the heat of the sun produced a partial thaw, which
was succeeded by a frost so sharp, that before the close of the day. an
officer of the suite, who weighed fourteen stone, was able to walk and
slide upon a square reservoir before the Dewan KhonSh, even though
the surface had been already broken at one corner. The fall of snow
was a seasonable supply of moisture to the country, which had long
been without any. On the new moon of March (the 15th of the
month) the rain begun, and for some days continued regularly, clearing
up about four or five hours before sunset, and gathering again at
night. From the height of the walls which surrounded us, and the
want of weathercocks or chimnies, I could collect but imperfectly the
quarter of the wind ; but, as far as I could judge, it was generally
from the S. E. There is a wind sometimes rushing from the Albores
on the N. of the bleakness of which the natives speak with dread.
From the 23d March (the first quarter of the moon) we had the true
ethereal mildness of spring, with light breezes from the westward in
the evening. Vegetation was making rapid advances : the rose-trees
in the court of our house were already green, and the chenars had just
begun to bud. The snow on the Albores was diminishing fast ; and
the weather generally, which sometimes lowered and then brightened
up, was that of an English spring. The thermometer was about 61°
to 64°, but in the middle of the day it reached 7o°, and the heat in
the close streets of the town was very sensible. In the first week of
April the mornings were beautiful ; but about noon a hot wind set in
from the S. E. which increased towards the evening, and died away
at night. About the second week the weather became cooler. Every
thing was in high foliage, and all our horses were at grass. The heat
was then becoming great: on the 19th the thermometer was at 82° in
the shade, and at night we had thunder and lightning with a thick haze
over the Albores, On the 21st the temperature, which in the interval

.'.,-*

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229

had been at 86°, sunk to 67°. On the night of the 20th there had
been a storm ; and on the dawn of day we discovered that the Albores 9
which before had lost their snow, were again covered. These tran-
sitions are common to situations like that of Teheran. The rain re*
freshed the air, and gave strength to the grass, which in the more
immediate neighbourhood of the town requires much moisture to
enable it to pierce the hardness of the soil. From this time the days
continued cool, with rain and frequent storms ; and the evenings be-
came almost piercing; but the showers gave a new force to vege-
tation.

Teheran is considered an unwholesome situation. The town is low
and built on a salt, moist soil. In the summer the heats are said to be
so insufferable-, that all those who are able (all perhaps except a few old
women) quit the town and live in tents nearer the foot of the Albores,
where it is comparatively cool. We had several illnesses in our
family, which we attributed to the water. The symptoms were an
obstinate constipation with great gripings, a disorder very common in
the place. Our head Persian writer was long laid up with a fever,
which brought him to the point of death. He was bled copiously six
times in six days. These people put no faith in our medicines, and
therefore he would not allow the Physician of the Mission to visit him.
At length however he was persuaded by a "fall" which he took in
Hafiz, and which pointed out, that he should M trust in the stranger."
The superstitious faith with which the Persians observe these fa Us is
inconceivable : the oracle consists in taking the book of Hafiz, where*
ever it may chance to open, and reading the passage on which the
eyes first happen to alight. That, by which the attention is thus at*
traded- is the prediction. Before they open the book, they make
certain invocations to God. Dr. Jukes accordingly prescribed ; bnt
his patient I believe disregarded his advice ; and we were despairing
about him, when we were told that tfee King's physician had been with
him, and had given him a water-melon to eat, and that the sick man
was now recovering. The theory of Persian medicine is somewhat that of

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Galen : they attribute all sickness to one of two causes, heat or cold.
If the patient is supposed to suffer from much heat, they bleed
him beyond measure ; if from cold, they give him cathartics in the
same proportion.

In the belief of Persia there is another and a simpler remedy for
malady. Nor perhaps is the credulity confined to Persia : there is I
suspect a more general superstition, that to relieve disease or accident,
the patient has only to deposit a rag on certain bushes, and from the
same spot to take another which has been previously left from the same
motive by a former sufferer.

In the time of the Seffis there was also another superstition in
Persia, which perhaps is not wholly extinct at this day. Every one
who has read Chard in, will remember the history of the coronation
of Shah Suleyman, who, because his original name was considered
unlucky, was renamed and recrowned.

The fruits which were in season at Teheran in the month of March,
and which were served to us every day at dinner, were pomegranates,
apples* pears, melons, limes, and oranges. The pomegranates came
from Maz under an, and were really here a luscious fruit, much superior
to any that I have seen in Turkey. They Avere generally twelve inches
in circumference. The vegetables were carrots, turnips, spinach and
beet-root. Hives are kept all over the country, and we had at Teheran
the finest honey that I ever ate, though that of Shiraz is reckoned bet-
ter, and that of Kauzeroon (which the bees cull from the orange-groves)
is considered as still superior. Our mutton was excellent, and very
cheap; for a sheep costs two piastres only. The beef was sometimes
good ; but as their meat is not deemed desirable in Persia, oxen are
not kept or fattened for the purposes of the table. We eat a hare
which had been caught by a man in the plain, and which we afterwards
coursed with our greyhounds. The Persians regard this flesh as unclean
in opposition to the Turks, who eat it without scruple.

In April we got delicious herrings from the Caspian, which appears
the proper sea for them. They are much larger than those which we

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231

have on the English coasts, and are called by the Persians the shah
mahee, " kins of fishes." In the end of that month we received a fresh
salmon of twenty-five pounds from the same sea also, as a present from
the Ameen-ed-Doulah. The Persians call it kizzel or golden : it was to
the palate as good as any English salmon, though with some of us it
did not agree quite so well.

From the account which the Prime Minister gave us of a stone
which is burnt in Mazanderan, there must be coals of the finest kind
in that province. Among the products of Persia are gum tragacanth,
assafcetida, yellow berries, henna (coarser than that of Egypt,) madder
roots, which grow wild upon the mountains, and are brought down for
sale by the Eelaats or wandering tribes ; the Hindoos only export it as
returns. Indigo is cultivated for the dying of linen and of beards, and
grows about Shooster Desfoul, near Kherat, and in the Laristan. It is
not so fine as the indigo from India, which indeed is a great article of the
import trade of Persia. They use the leaf only for their beards. There
is no cochineal. Cotton is produced enough for the interior consump-
tion of the country. The best manufacture which they make is a cot-
ton cloth, called the kaduck; of this there is an exportation to Turkey.
The finest is manufactured at Ispahan. The great and richest produce
is the silk of Ghilan and Mazanderan. The manufacturing towns of
Persia are Yezd, silken stuffs, stuffs of silk and cotton ; Kashan, silks and
copper ware; Koom, earthenware; Resht, silks, coarse woollen cloths
ofAvhichthe tekmis are made; Shiraz, swords, fire-arms, and glass-ware;
Ispahan, brocades, cotton clothes ; Kermanshah, arms ; Kerman,
shawls.

4th of May. The most beautiful part of the plain about Teheran is
that to the S. E. The verdure, when I left the country, was most luxu-
riant ; and the whole animated by peasantry and their cattle. Yet
though the spring was thus far advanced, the mountain Demawena 1
(whenever the clouds, which almost always concealed it, rolled away)
appeared more than ever covered with snow. The direct distance to it

232

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from Teheran is about forty miles ; to the base of the first mountain is
reckoned fourteen miles. We had seen it when it was at least one
hundred and fifty miles from us ; and were told indeed, as I have remark-
ed before, that it might be seen from the top of the minaret of the
Mesjid Shah, at Ispahan, a distance of two hundred and forty miles.
It is visible from Resht, and generally along all the south of the Caspian
sea ; and it is therefore very credible that that sea, which is not more
than forty miles from the base, may be seen from the summit, of De ma-
wend. But, according to some accounts, no one ever gained the top ;
according to others, there is a horse-road through the whole ascent. I
was told at Tabriz, by a man of Mazanderan, that he himself knew
several who had reached the summit ; and, indeed, that De?-veishes, led
by the information of their books, resorted thither from India to cull a
certain plant convertible into gold, and tinging with a golden hue the
teeth of the sheep that feed upon the mountain. At the foot of the
Albores are many villages and pleasure-houses, and much cultivation ;
all the rest of the country in that direction is a blank with scarcely
a shrub.

On the east side of the plain of Teheran there is an elevated road of
a fine bottom running N. and S. which seems to have been con-
nected with the city of Rey. On the 4th of March we visited the
ruins of Rey. They are situated about five miles in a south direction
from Teheran, and extend as far as the eye can reach over the plain,
E. and W. To the E. at the foot of a projecting range, which branches
from the Albores, are the remains of the citadel ; consisting of walls
and turrets, built of mud bricks, which in most places are distinguished
with difficulty from mounds of earth. The mass of the height, on
which it is erected, seems rather of earth than of rock. Near the foot
of the citadel stands a tower, which by our hasty calculation may be
about fifty feet in height. It is built of a very fine species of brick,
cemented by mortar. Its exterior is arranged in twenty-four trian-
gular compartments, the base of each being about five feet, giving a

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233

circumference of one hundred and twenty feet. On the summit,
between two rows of ornaments in brick, is an inscription in the
Cuffick character; the letters of which are formed by small inlaid
bricks. The interior was so full of straw and other rubbish, that we
could not explore it; the door is to the eastward. The style of building
resembles much that of the Seffis; with this difference, that the
bricks are put together with a greater portion of mortar, and are of a
rather darker colour. About three miles to the Southward on an in-
sulated hill are other buildings, and a turret of the same style as the
one just described ; and between both is a round tower of stone, with a
Cuffick inscription in brick-work. In this turret we observed through
a window, that there was a winding staircase in the wall, but we could
not find the entrance to it.

Still further on, on the brow of a hill close under the mountain, is a
building, partly of ancient and partly of modern construction ; this is
the tomb of one of the wives of Imaum Hossein. It is composed of
two courts and two inner rooms ; three old women officiate here over
the remains of their female saint. There is much running water all
around ; part issues from a spring, which gushes out from under a
rock. The mountains are arid, with surfaces indicating much mineral
below.

Rey is the Usages of To bit, and is the city where Alexander
rested five days in his pursuit after Darius; after he had made a
march of eleven days from Ecbatana or Hamadan. Arrian calls this
city one day's journey from the Caspian Streights.

Ret/ was reduced by Hub be, the general of Jenghiz Khan;
and from its scattered population arose the town of Teheran. Near
the ruins is still a village called Shah Abdul Azeem, with a Zeeauret or
place of worship.

Of ancient Persia I learned little. Currimabad is, perhaps, the Cor-
biana of geography. Near Shiraz is a Bolouk of eighteen villages*
called Fasa, from its chief place, which itself is about five or six

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234

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menzils or thirty-five fursungs from Shiraz, and about nineteen from
Persepolis. From Fasa to Firouzabad is four menzils ; perhaps twenty
fursungs. The ruins at both, and indeed in the line between them are
great.

A native of Fasa, whom I questioned on the subject, told me that
the remains at his city were considered more wonderful than any thing
at Persepolis, except the columns. There are great stones with Perse-
politan inscriptions. There is a large mound of earth, which, accord-
ing to the people of his country, was transported by Turks from
Turkish territory. The thaabet or government of this place is the most
lucrative and respectable about the region.

Jaffier Ali, Resident for the English nation at Shiraz, informed
me that the number of the Guebres (worshippers of fire) decrease an-
nually in Persia. They are so reviled and distressed by the government
that either they become converts to Mahomedanism, or emigrate to
their brethren in India. Their Atech-gau, or chief fire-temple, a large
excavation in the ground, in which the sacred element was preserved,
was at Firouzabad, seventeen fursungs South East of Shiraz. The
orifice is now closed ; and the fire indeed, according to a Mahomedan
doctor, was extinguished on the day of the birth of his prophet. The
remains at Firouzabad attest the former importance of that city. Yezd
is now the great seat of the Guebres and of their religion ; but they are
more poor and more contemned in Persia, than the most miserable of
the Jews in Turkey. The works of Zoroaster were collected by his
disciple Jamaz, into a book thence called the Jamaz Namah, which is
now most scarce.

II. The only hereditary title in Persia is Mirza or Meerza. The
derivation of which word is from Einir (Ameer a nobleman) and Zade
a son, &c. This species of nobility is traced very far, and is not
creative. The title descends to all the sons of the family, without ex-
ception. In the Royal family it is placed after the name instead of
before it, thus, Abbas Mirza and Hossein Ali Mirza. Mirza is a

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235

civil title, and Khan is a military one. The title of Khan is creative,
but not hereditary: the sons of Khans are called Aga or Esquire,
which is a Tartar title, and more common to Turkey than to Persia.
The creation of Khan is attended with few ceremonies, and those very
simple. The King sends a kalaat or dress of honour to the person so
created, and on his investiture the King gives him a firman announcing
to all persons that the bearer of it is forthwith a Khan; and this finnan
is worn three days on the top of the turban. Any person who derides
this patent or who refuses to call the bearer of it by his title, is liable
to the penalty of death.

The title of Mirza does not hinder the possessor from receiving that
of Khan also; and then the name runs, for example, thus, Mirza
Hossein Ali Khan.

The different ranks of civil governors are — 1st. The Beglerbeg, who
generally resides in the large cities, and controuls the province around:
2d. The Hakim ; and 3d. the Thaubet, who severally govern a city or a
town : 4th. The Kelounter', who, besides the real governor, resides in
every city, town and village, and superintends the collection of the
tribute: 5th. The Ket Khoda, who is the chief of a village: 6th. The
Pak-kar, who is servant or Hammes d' Affaires to the Ket Khoda, and who
transacts the business with the Kay at or peasant. The Pak-kar accounts
with the Ket Khoda, and he again with the Kelounter.

The Kelounter is a man of consequence wherever he presides ; he is
an officer of the crown, and once a-year appears before the Royal pre-
sence, an honour which is not permitted to the Ket Khoda. He also
receives wages from the King's treasury, which the Ket Khoda does not.
The Kelounter is the medium through which the wishes and wants of
the people are made known to the King: he is their chief and repre-
sentative on all occasions, and brings forward the complaints of the
Ray at s, whenever they feel oppressed. He also knows the riches of
every Rayat, and his means of rendering the annual tribute : he there-
fore regulates the quota that every man must pay ; and if his seal be
not affixed to the documents which the Rayat brings forward in the

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236

TEHERAN.

time of the levy, the assessment is not valid, and the sum cannot be
received.

The three principal branches of the tribute which the people pay are
1st. Maleeat ; Qd.Sader; and 3d. Peish-Kesh.

The Maleeat is the hereditary original right of the crown, and consists
in produce and money. The King gets in kind one-fifth of the produce
of the land, i. e. of wheat, barley, silk, tobacco, indigo, &c. and arti-
cles of that description : and one-fifth in money of all the vegetables,
fruit, and lesser produce of the earth, which the proprietor may sell.
Though the proportion be paid in kind, yet it is assessed, not by the
actual levy of every fifth sheaf, &c. but by an indirect criterion of pro-
duce, deduced from the number of oxen kept by the landholder; and
this part of the revenue is collected accordingly by a corresponding
rate imposed upon the growth of the land. Thus the possessor of
twelve oxen is supposed to possess also an extent of land, the cultiva-
tion of which may require that number, and is therefore assessed to pay
a quantity of corn proportioned to the assumed amount of his gross
receipt.

The King collects one-fifth also in money of all the vegetables,
fruits, and lesser produce of the earth, which the proprietor may sell.
Formerly these tributes, either in kind or in money, were only one-
tenth : but their amount has been doubled by the present King.

The inhabitants of towns pay according to an assessment imposed
on the place, and founded on the number of houses which it may
contain, and not according to their individual means. And this levy
on any particular town is but a part only of that charged on the
district which contains it ; thus Ispahan, which for instance has Koom
and Kashan within its administration, is required to furnish a specified
sum, of which it pays part, and divides the rest among the second-
rate towns, which again subdivide their own proportions among the
villages around ; and collect, each in their gradations, the appointed
amount of the tribute, and transfer the whole to the Royal treasury.
The government requires that the collector of any given district should

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237

supply a stated sum, but it permits him likewise to add, as his own
profit, whatever he can further exact. Most of these offices are bought
and sold. By the amount therefore of the purchase is regulated the
rate of oppression. The scale descends; every minor agent is ex-
pected to accomplish an appointed task ; but is left to choose his own
means, and to have no other controul but his own conscience. This
is the practice, whatever may be the theory of the administration of the
revenue.

The Sader is an arbitrary tax, and is the most grievous to the
Hay at. It admits every species of extortion, and renders the situation
of the peasant extremely precarious. This impost is levied on parti-
cular occasions, such as the passage of any great man through the
country, the local expences of a district, Or on other opportunities
which are continually recurring ; so that the Rayat is never certain of
a respite. It is assessed in the same manner upon the number of oxen
which he may keep. Thus, if sheep are wanted, he who keeps one
ox is obliged to give a sheep, and so on with every other demand
which may be made.

The Peish-Kesk. This is called indeed a voluntary gift, but it must
be offered every year at the festival of the Norooz ; and like the regular
taxes, is required in the same proportion, according to the means of the
people.

By these taxations the condition of the cultivators is rendered
more particularly wretched. On the contrary, the merchants are less
oppressed than any class in Persia. The shop-keeper indeed (duki-
andar) pays tribute ; but the proper merchant, (sodagerj a distinct
order, pays nothing at all to the state, except the duties of the customs,
which are comparatively very small, being about one-tenth on the
imports ; and as they are not affected by any other imposition, they
are the most wealthy part of the community.

Landed property in Persia is hereditary, and is known by the name
bfwalcy. But on the delinquency of its proprietor, it may be seized
by the King, and is then called Zapte Shah. It remains annexed to

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the crown, until the family are again restored, when the estate, accord-
ing to the pleasure of the Sovereign, may be returned. The King, while
he retains such property, generally allows a portion of its produce to
the relatives of the former owner, and this allowance is called Mouste-
meree. Besides the Zapte Shah there are the Halisse or crown lands,
that from time immemorial have belonged to the Kings of Persia.
They are cultivated by tenants, who defray all the expences, cattle,
implements of agriculture, &c. and divide the net profits with the
King.

At the death of Kerim Khan, the Royal treasury was nearly
empty; but at the death of the late King Aga Mahomed Khan, it
is said to have contained fifteen crore of tomauns. Since the times of
Kerim Khan the value of bullion has increased greatly ; the miscal
of gold was then five piastres, it is now eight and a half ; that of silver
was three hundred dinars, it is now five hundred ; and every year the
price increases in some small degree. Provisions and labour have of
course corresponded in proportion. There is no prohibition against
the melting, or the exportation of the precious metals. Every one
may convert his own bullion into any use. If he wishes to have his
gold coined, he can send it to the mint to be struck into any piece of
money ; paying the value of a pea's weight of gold for every tomaun.
The right of coinage is secured to particular towns by firmans from the
King. Most of the gold is clipped, as every Jew pares a little off. The
shopkeepers also contrive to rub the coin on a black stone to try the
purity of the metal ; by this operation small particles remain on the
stone, which are extracted with care, and reserved till a sufficient
quantity for a coin be collected. Most of the silver in circulation
comes originally from a very fine silver mine in Bokhara. There is
another also in Aderbigian, and another near Shiraz, the latter of which
is neglected, as the expences have been found to exceed the produce.
The King's treasure is reported, probably with much truth, to be im-
mense. The Persians indeed affirm, that all the money, which is
received into the Royal coffers, remains there and never again gets into

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239

circulation. In a country so poor as Persia, in which there are so few
people of any capital, the absorption of a million or a much smaller sum
would be immediately felt. If therefore all the sums, which are
annually poured into the King's treasure, had remained a dead stock in
his hands, there would not now have been a single piece of gold in
Persia. There is no corresponding influx of bullion. Persia exports
yearly three hundred and fifty thousand tomauns in specie to India ;
to meet this drain there is indeed an inadequate supply from their
trade with Russia, which purchases with gold all the silk of
Ghilan ; and again with Turkey, which pays in gold for all the
shawls and the little silk which it exports from Persia. Yet it is
possible that the King may reserve two-thirds of his receipts; and
expend the remainder only, perhaps half a crore of tomauns. This sup-
position derives some probability, as well from the increase in the value
of bullion as from the accounts of the treasures of Aga Mahomed ;
and further from the common belief of Persia, that a large proportion
of the regular expences of the royal establishment are defrayed by the
Ameen-ed-Doidah, from sources connected with his office and power.
Thus he pays the household, and clothes the servants ; he supplies a
part of the kalaats at the Norooz ; he furnishes the maintenance of the
King's children, and clothes for the new-born infants, and necessaries
for the mother. In Persia, when a woman is five months in her preg-
nancy, she provides clothes for her expected offspring : in this situation
the King's wives send to the Ameen-ed-Doulah a list of all the articles
which they may want ; and which, frequently at a large cost, he is
obliged to produce on the spot. For this purpose he keeps in his house
a magazine stored with every description of dress for every age. Every
year he is obliged to build new rooms in the King's Seraglio for the
women whom his Majesty may chance to add to his numbers ; and for
each of these rooms he provides a silver manzal or fire-pan, a lamp
and two candlesticks of silver, basins, ewers, dishes, plates, &c. and
all of silver. To answer these immense demands, the range of his exac-
tions may well be believed to be unbounded*

240

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The aggregate of the population of Persia is divided into tribes, part
of which live in fixed habitations, and others (the larger proportion
indeed, and all the Arabs) live in tents. These tribes never emigrate
from their own districts, but all have their winter and summer regions ;
in the former pitching their tents in the plain, in the latter on the
summits and declivities of their mountains. To these districts they
adhere strictly, as the line of demarcation for the pasturage of their
flocks has been observed from ages the most remote. Each has its
records, and can trace its genealogy to the first generation. The most
considerable and renowned are the Baktiar, that spread themselves
over the province of Irauk ; the Failee, that live about the mountains
of Shooster or Susa, and extend their frontiers to those of the Bak-
tiar s ; the Affshars, that live near the lake of Shahee; the Lacs, that are
near Casvin.

All the tribes pay tribute. When the King calls upon them for
purposes of war, all (excepting the Arabs and the Failee tribe)
are obliged to send a proportion of men, who are always ready at
his summons.

The names of every one of such men, the names of their fathers,
and other particulars of their family, are all registered in the Defter
Khona at the seat of government ; and at the feast of the Norooz, they
attend the King to inquire whether their services for that year are re-
quired : if required, they wait the encampment of his Majesty; if not,
they are permitted to return, but in either case they receive a stated pay.
This is one of the oldest customs in Persia, recorded in their histories
from time immemorial. Each tribe has its chief, who is always a Khan,
and one of their own race. He generally remains with his people, and
has a Vakeel at the capital, who attends daily at the Der-a-KhonSh, and
transacts all the business of his principal. He would be the Baron of
feudal times, if he were not liable to lose his post at the will of the
King. Mr. Bruce informed me that there still exists in Persia an an-
cient custom, in cases of emergency, of requiring from every mill (the
wheel of which is turned by water) a man and horse armed and accou-

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241

tred for the field; and of these they reckon one hundred thousand. The
reason assigned for the King's never requiring the attendance of the
Failees on his military expeditions is, that in time of old (some say the
reign of the famous King Caioum) the Failees fled and lost the battle ;
and incurred upon themselves and their posterity this interdiction of
military service for ever. The people of Ispahan and of Kashan, who
either urged or joined the flight of the Failees, were included in the same
prohibition ; and to this day bear the epithet of arrant cowards, more
happy perhaps to live a quiet life at home, than to attempt to regain
the reputation of brave men by fighting abroad.

The supplies which are sent receive pay from the King, as well as
arms and horses ; and when in actual service are fed at the King's ex-
pence. When he no longer wants them they are dismissed to their
own homes. The tribes compose the whole military force of the king-
dom, except the King's body-guards, who are never disbanded, and
form the standing army of the country. Each Prince Governor of the
provinces has also his body-guard, which, in like manner, is never
disbanded.

The provinces of Aderbigian, Khorassan, Pars, Kerman, part of Irauk
towards Irauk Arabi, are all governed by the King's sons. The Prince
of Aderbigian, it is said, can raise from his different tribes fifty thousand
horse and foot, over which the King has no direct controul ; but which,
in case of war, He can call into action by requiring the attendance of
his son with all his forces.

In the same manner the Prince Governor of Khorassan can raise from
his tribes twenty thousand horse and foot. The Prince of Fars has
likewise a similar command ; but his troops have never been summoned
to assist the King in his wars, as they are always left for the protection
of the Southern parts of Persia. The province of Mazanderan sends
twenty thousand horse and foot to the King. As the Qujars or Cadjars y
the King's own tribe, are resident in this province, He looks upon this
force as his particular safeguard. This tribe is considered the most

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ancient and honoured in Persia : they reckon among themselves four
Kings — Fath Ali Shah, who was killed by Shah Thamas ; Hassaw
Khan, who was killed by Kerim Khan ; Aga Mahomed; and the
present King, his nephew and successor. Of this tribe there are two
races; the first is the Yokaree Bash, of which the King's family and
that of the mother of the Heir apparent are both sprung ; the second
is the Asheea Bash. The nobility of the King's progeny varies much ac-
cording to that of the mothers.

The two great tribes are the Baktiari and the Failee. They consist
of one hundred thousand families each, which, at five persons in a
family, makes two totals of five hundred thousand souls. The Bak-
tiars, of all the tribes, send the most troops to the King's service.
The King's body-guard consists of twelve thousand men, half of
whom are disciplined in the European manner, and are called Jan-baz,
in contra-distinction to those raised and disciplined by the Princes,
(and particularly Abbas Mirza, Governor of Aderbigian,) who are
called Ser-baz. " Jan-baz" means one who plays away his soul ;
" Ser-baz" means one who plays away his head only.

The Twelve thousand who form the King's body-guard are taken
indiscriminately from the tribes, or from the population of the cities,
but principally from Mazanderan and the tribes connected with the
King's own race. They have their families and homes at Teheran, and
in the neighbouring villages, and are ready at every call. They are
divided into bodies of three thousand men and do duty by turns in the
King's palace, called the Ark. They are called Kechekchees or Guards,
and every such body has a Ser Kechekchee, or Head of the Guard, who
always attends when his corps is on duty ; and on the relief of the
guard a Mirza belonging to the corps reads over every man's name,
and in case of non-attendance the defaulter receives punishment. These
Ser Kechekchees are men of so much family and distinction, that one
of the King's own sons enjoys the dignity. The Kechekchees are distri-
buted in all parts of the palace, and are always seen on guard on the

TEHERAN.

243

the towers of the Ark. Their watch-word is " hazir, or ready/' which
they continually pass from one to the other. They are a distinct body
from the Kechekchees of the city, who are solely attached to the police
office, and do the duty of our watchmen, with this difference, that they
have a right to ascend the tops of the houses in their midnight
rounds.

Besides this body-guard of twelve thousand, the King has three
thousand Goulams or slaves, who are horsemen and always attend him
when he makes an excursion. All these people, both horse and foot,
are paid, fed, clothed, armed and mounted at the King's expence.
Goulam (slave) is here figuratively used to express their devotion to the
King's service ; for they are not in reality entered into a state of servi-
tude by actual purchase : on the contrary, they are particularly honoured
by the King, and his own favourite Ismael Beg is their commander.
This chief is one of those who still exercise the noose with great skill ; it
is called kummand, and there are some instances of its being still used
in their engagements.

DRESS.

The dress of the Persians is much changed since the time of
Chardin. It never possessed the dignity and solidity of the Turkish
dress, and much less now than ever. So materially indeed have their
fashions altered, that in comparing with the modes of the present day,
the pictures and descriptions in Char din and Le Brun, we can
recognize no longer the same people. It is extraordinary that an
Asiatic nation, so much charmed by show and brilliancy, (as the
Persians have always been supposed to be), should have adopted for
their apparel the dark and sombre colours, which are now universal
among all ranks. In the reign of the Zand Family indeed, light colours
were much in vogue ; but the present Race, perhaps from a spirit of
opposition, cherish dark ones. A Persian therefore looks a most melan-
choly personage, and resembles much some of the Armenian Priests
and Holy Men, whom I have seen in Turkey. Browns, dark olives^

ii %

244

TEHERAN.

bottle greens, and dark blues, are the colours mostly worn. Red they
dislike ; and it is singular that this is a hue, which fashion seems to
have discarded even in the countries far beyond the Northern and
Eastern confines of Persia ; for the merchants of Bokhara, who come
down annually to Bushire to buy cloths, totally disregard scarlets, and
for that colour will not give any thing like the price, which they will
pay for others.

Although the climate requires full as much clothing as that of
Turkey, I did not find in my stay among them, that the Persians
clothed themselves by any means so warmly as the Turks. As the
cold increases, the Turk increases the number of his pelisses, till in the
progress of the winter I have frequently seen a small and puny man ex-
pand into a very robust and athletic figure : but the Persian's wardrobe
does not thus extend over him as the season advances.

The following is a general catalogue of the articles of their dress : —
1. The zeer jutnah : a pair of very wide trowsers, either of red silk or
blue cotton, reaching below the ancle, and fastened by a string which
passes through the top, and is tied before. 2. The peer a hawn: a
shirt generally of silk, which, going over the trowsers, reaches a few
inches below the hips, and is fastened by two buttons over the top of
the right shoulder. It goes close round the lower part of the neck,
where it is sometimes ornamented by a ribband or thin cord of silk.
The opening of the shirt extends to the bottom of the ribs. 3. The
alcalock : a tight vest, made of chintz, and quilted with cotton, which
ties at the side, and reaches as low as the thin part of the calf of the
leg. It has sleeves extending to the wrist, but open from the elbow.
4. The caba : which is a long vest descending to the ancle, but fitting
tight to the body as far only as the hips: it then buttons at the
side. The sleeves go over those of the alcalock, and from the elbow
are closed by buttons only, that they may be opened thus far for the
purpose of ablution, when the namaz or prayer is said. There is
another species of caba, called the bagalee, which crosses over the
breast, and fastens all down the side by a range of buttons to the hip.

TEHERAN.

*This is generally made of cloth, or of shawl or cotton quilted, and, as
the warmer, is most used in winter. 5. The outer coat is always made
of cloth, and is worn or thrown off according to the heat of the
weather. Of this dress, there are many sorts : — the tekmeh ; which has
sleeves open from the elbow, but which are yet so fashioned as to
admit occasionally the lower part also of the arm. These sleeves are
generally permitted to hang behind. The coat itself is quite round,
buttons before, and drops like a petticoat over the shawl that goes
round the waist. The oymeh, which is like the tekmeh, except that
from the hips downwards, it is open at the sides. The baroonee, which
is a loose and ample robe with proportionably ample arms, gene-
rally made of cloth and faced with velvet, and thrown negligently
over the shoulders. 6. Over the caba, comes the shdl kemer, which is
the bandage round the waist. This is made either of Cashmirian
shawl, or of the common shawl of Kerman, or of English chintz, or of
flowered muslin. The proper size is about eight yards long, and
one broad. To this is fastened (by a string neatly tied around
it) a hinjur, or dagger, ornamented according to the wealth of the
possessor, from an enameled pummel set in precious stones, to a
common handle of bone and wood. 7- Besides the outer clothes,
which I have just mentioned, they have also coats trimmed with fur.
Such is the catebee, which is an uncommonly rich dress, covering the
whole of the body, with fur over the back and shoulders, fur at the
cuffs, and fur inside. It is made of cloth of gold and brocades, with
large ornaments of gold lace in front, and forms altogether the
most dignified among the habits that I remarked in Persia. 8. They
have also a short jacket, called the coordee, which fits close to the
body, but with loose flaps as low as the commencement of the swell
of the thigh. 9- The warmest of their dresses is a sheep-skin with the
fur inside, and the leather part outside. It is called, from its sudorific
qualities, the hummum or bath, but it is more generally named the
pooshtee or skin. It is an ugly and unpleasant article. The better

246

TEHERAN.

sheep-skins come from Bokhara, and are covered with the finest woo)
certainly that I ever saw.

The head-dress of every Persian from the King to his lowest subject,
is composed of one substance, and consists of a black cap about one
foot and a half high. These caps are all jet black, and are all made
of skins of the same animals. The finest are taken from the lamb, in
the first moments of its birth ; and they decrease in value down to the
skin of the full-grown sheep, which the common Ray at wears. The lamb-
skins are also used to line coats, and make very comfortable pelisses. The
only distinction in the head-dress of Persia, is that of a shawl wrapped
round the black cap; and this distinction is confined to the King, to
the Princes his sons, and to some of the nobility and great officers of
state. Cashmire shawls have been discouraged of late, in order to
promote the domestic manufacture of brocade shawls.

i Like the Turks, and indeed generally like other Asiatics, the Persians
are very careful in preserving warmth in the feet. In winter they
wear a thick woollen sock ; and in the air or in a journey, they bind
their feet and legs with a long bandage of cloth, which they increase
with the advance of the cold. They have three different sorts of shoes,
and two sorts of boots. 1. A green slipper, with a heel about an inch
and a half high, with a painted piece of bone at the top. These are
worn by the higher classes, and by all before the King. 2. A flat
slipper, either of red or yellow leather, with a little iron shoe under the
heel, and with a piece of bone over that shoe, on which, as in the first
instance, the heel rests. 3. A stout shoe (with a flat sole, turning up
at the toe) which covers the whole foot, and is made either of leather,
or of thick-quilted cotton. It is worn by the peasants, and by the
chatters, or walking footmen.

The boots are, 1. a very large pair with high heels, turned up at
the toe, made generally of Russia leather, and covering the leg. 2.
A smaller and tighter kind, buttoning at the side, and reaching only to
the calf of the leg. When the Persians ride, tbey put on a loose

TEHERAN.

247

trowser of cloth, called shalwar, into which they insert the skirts of the
alkalock, as well as the silken trowsers ; so that the whole looks like an
inflated bladder. The shalwar is very useful in carrying light, baggage,
as handkerchiefs, small books, &c. &c. not unfrequently a slight
meal.

The Persians shave all the head except a tuft of hair just on
the crown, and two locks behind the ears : but they suffer their beards
to grow, and to a much larger size than the Turks, and to spread more
about the ears and temples. They almost universally dye them black,
by an operation not very pleasant, and necessary to be repeated gene-
rally once a fortnight. It is always performed in the hot-bath, where
the hair being well saturated takes the colour better. A thick paste of
Khenna is first made, which is largely plastered over the beard, and
which after remaining an hour is all completely washed off, and leaves
the hair of a very strong orange colour, bordering upon that of brick-
dust. After this, as thick a paste is made of the leaf of the indigo,
(which previously has been pounded to a fine powder), and of this also
a deep layer is put upon the beard ; but this second process, to be taken
well, requires two full hours. During all this operation, the patient
lies quietly flat upon his back ; whilst the dye (more particularly the
indigo, which is a great astringent) contracts the features of his face in a
very mournful manner, and causes all the lower part of the visage to
smart and burn. When the indigo is at last washed off, the beard is of
a very dark bottle green, and becomes a jet black only when it has met
the air for twenty-four hours. Some, indeed, are content with the
Khenna, or orange colour ; others, more fastidious, prefer a beard quite
blue. The people of Bokhara are famous for their blue beards. It is
inconceivable how careful the Persians are of this ornament : all the
young men sigh for it, and grease their chins to hasten the growth
of the hairs ; because, until they have there a respectable covering, they
are supposed not fit to enjoy any place of trust.

Another singular custom is that of dying the hands and feet : this
n done by the abovementioned Khenna, which is generally put over

248

TEHERAN.

every part of the hands and nails as far as the wrist, and on the soles of
the feet, th toes, and nails.

From the comparative shortness of my stay in Persia, I cannot
presume to delineate the national character. I shall therefore spare
the reader any general observations which can be rendered of decisive
authority only by the experience of years, and an intimate acquaint-
ance with the literature and amusements, as well as with the admini-
stration of a country. The simple incidents of my journal, as they
occur, may perhaps afford to every reader better materials for the illus-
tration of the manners and society and government of Persia, than any
systematic conclusions which I might have been able to extract from
the same scenes and subjects.

Blank inserted to ensure correct page position

CHAP. XIV.

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

departure from teheran plain tumuli casvin sulta-

nieh; tomb of sultan mahomed khodabendeh; citadel:
new town of sultanabad marmots king's pleasure-
house zengan elauts inscription at armaghaneh

river kizzil ozan miauneh dispute establishment

of couriers caravanserai women in persia.

A HE 7th of May 1809* which (as being the festival of Omar-Coushen,
or the killing of Omar) was considered a very lucky day, was at length
fixed for our departure. Mirza Abu l Hassan (the Persian Envoy
Extraordinary) and I sent on our baggage in the morning to Imaum
Reza, about three miles from the city, and followed ourselves at five
o'clock in the evening. I was accompanied by my best of friends, Sir
Harford Jones and the rest of his suite, and we had our parting
dinner in a tent which he had pitched there for the purpose.

The spot at which we stopped was the tomb of a son of Imaum Reza,
frequented as a place of devotion. It is a square building, covered
with a cupola, and enclosed in a square by a wall ; beyond which, in a
row on each side, are some young trees and shrubs and flowers. The

K K

250

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

country all around was in a high state of verdure. I went to the top of
the gate of the tomb, from which I took the following bearings : Tehe-
ran N. 70 E.; Demawend N. 50 E.; extremity of the Albores (at the
foot of which leads the road to Casvin) N. 70 W. ; Rey S. 45 E.

8th. After having conversed with Sir Harford on matters of busi-
ness, I slept till three in the morning, and then sat off. Sir Harford
accompanied us for some time, but quitted us at half an hour after
sun-rise.

The plain of Teheran is covered with villages : I could count twenty
to the right and to the left. The road followed, as far as Karatch, the
bearing of N. 70 W. which I had taken on the preceding day. At
about ten miles from the Imaum Reza, we came to a dike cut from the
river at Karatch, from which our water-carriers were used to bring
drinking-water for our party at Teheran. At about six miles from
Imaum Rezais a village called Geldisi, distant three miles on the left:
another at the foot of the Albores called Kend; further on the left is
AU-shah-abad, a larger place, with many trees around; then Sherar;
then high on the hills to the right a pretty village called Boragoim. As
we approached we saw the bed of the river called Aub Karatch, run-
ning about S. W. which I am told takes its source in the Albores, and
runs towards Kijiar-a-Gird. The bed is large, 'but it was then only
partially filled. We crossed at the winding of the road over a brick
bridge of two arches of different sizes : near it are some ruins of
other brick buildings, apparently of the same age. In this :spot is an
inlet of the mountains, which seems to form aprotty plain, and in which
I remarked some 'hamlets.

The tomb of the son of Imau& Hassan renders Karatch a pleasing
object at a distance. The dome is shaded by the rich foliage of two
fmeehenar trees, and a stream cut from the river runs near the walls.
The Persian Envoy informed me that this village, and thoseon the.plain,
♦belong to his ^brother-in-law 'the Ameen-ed-\Doidah, and were formerly
the property of his uncle the late Prime Minister. The Mirza himself

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

251

took up his lodgings in the tomb; my Mehmantfar put us in the house
of a peasant, which was clean though small; the people here burn cakes
of cow-dung for their common fuel. In a little enclosure behind the
house was a vine. The sun-set N. 70 W.

9th. We departed from Karat ch at one o'clock in the morning,
and, as well as I could ascertain our bearing by the stars, continued
our route in the direction of the preceding day. Two fursungs from
Karatch, in a plain of immense extent, is Kemelabad. We were told
that the road to our stage through the plain wag swampy ; we there-
fore chose another to the right, which (after a ride of four hours and $
half, and a distance perhaps of sixteen miles) brought us, about sun-
rise, to a delightful village called Koran.

On the breaking of the morning we had discovered an immense
plain, so thickly strewed with villages, that no one could repeat to me
all their names. The whole, m number about one hundred, compose
the bolouk or district of Souj-bolouk, and are mostly under the Ameenr
ed-Doulah.

At Koran we saw the Hakim or Governor, as he was setting out on
an expedition to collect the tribute from the peasantry. The village
and the surrounding territory arc delightfully watered by a river,
which, issuing from between an Eastern and a Western chain of moun-
tains, flows through a very steep channel, (in a N. and S. direction,
after meandering some time from E. to W.) A great number of
dikes, are cut from it, and extend the fertility beyond the course of
the river, through the whole plain ; which, particularly near the villages,
is admirably cultivated.

From Koran we returned to the line, and met the road at a point
where stood a caravanserai and a tomb, both in ruins, and a clump of
trees. We were four hours in reaching Gauzir-teng, our MenzU, &
total distance from Karatch of twenty-eight miles.

In the plain through which we passed, we saw at a distance about
five tumuli. They are such as are seen on the plains of Troy, and jiere

k k 2

252

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

also are called Tape. We may account for them by the battles between
the Persians and Turks, who buried their dead under similar mounds.
There are numbers all over the plain : the people of the country say,
that borges or towers were built on these mounds; and our host at
Gauzir-seng told us that a large tape called Murad-tapS, or the Hill of
Charity near the village, received its name from a man who had
made it his residence. His story (if it be worth telling) continued how-
ever, that a stranger, who had asked charity in vain even on this
hill, found at the door the master's horse, and rode off with it, ex-
claiming, " this is your charity."

At Gauzir-seng, we w T ere lodged in one of the towers that flank the
walls of the village. It was open on all sides by windows ; we could
thus enjoy the Westerly breeze, which allayed the great heat of the
day. We were very well treated by the Ket Khoda of the village, who
seemed to me a well-bred and well-meaning man. We had good ?noss,
(curdled milk, the same as the yaourt, in Turkey) and a sort of drink
made of moss and water, of which the common people all drink very
plentifully at this season.

10th. We left Gauzir-seng at midnight, and came to Kish-lauk,
bearing; West of our last station, on a distance of about fifteen miles.

The Prince of Aderbigian has a pleasure-house here, which is extolled
by Persians as a wonder and a paradise. I could discover the extent
of the grounds, and the house, which is built on one of the artificial
tapis or mounds.

A most beautiful morning opened the day to us ; the twilight com-
menced at four o'clock, and the sun rose at five. The mountains, still
bearing East and West, declined in their height to the Westward, termi-
nating towards the plain by small hills. After passing Kish-lauk we
came on a common, on which large herds of cattle were feeding. To
the left of the road were many villages spread all over a plain, the
extent of which was concealed by a haze : the whole district is divided
-into many bolouks, and is under the jurisdiction of Casein. The prin-

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

253

cipal villages on the left are Hossein-abad, Hassan-abad, Shahinerlou,
Shahin-tape. Some on the right, are Angouri mahali, and compose
part of a bolonk called Kou-payeh, belonging to Mirza Reza
Kouli, who was Embassador to France, and signed the treaty of
Finkenstein.

At about seven miles from Casvin, we turned from the road at a small
mud-walled village, to eat something ourselves, and to give our horses
some grass. On entering a room, the master talked Turkish to me, and
said that he had seen me before at Constantinople. In fact I recognised
him as one of those whom I had seen at Constantinople, with the
Persian Embassy to France. He talked to me with much pleasure of
Frangistoon or Europe : and this man, who boasts of having sat in the
same room, and of having been taken by the hand by Buonaparte
himself, now lives in misery and solitude in an unknown village. It is
not uninteresting to know the extreme attention which Buonaparte
paid to his Persian guests. He lodged the Embassador and his suite
in an house adjacent to his own at Finkenstein, and every day used to
walk in amongst them, take them by the hand, and use every little art
to conciliate their affections.

We reached Casvin at half past twelve. The day was hot and suffo-
cating, and there was an appearance of storm in the Westward. For
about two miles before we entered the gates, we passed by fields and
gardens, mostly producing vines, which, as I am told, yield the best
grape in Persia. This place labours under great inconvenience from the
want of water ; indeed, through the whole extent of the immense plain,
that we traversed during the day, there was not one natural stream ;
but many kanauts were making, and wherever there is irrigation, there
is fertility, and the cultivation is rich. Upon the whole therefore, our
route from Teheran displayed a country of much more promising ap-
pearance, than (if we had trusted only to the experience of our own
journey from Bushire to the capital) we might have expected in Persia.
The brother of the Minister of Sheik Ali Khan, one of the King's
sons, and Governor of the city, came out to meet us as an istakbaU,

■

254

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

and accompanied us to an house, which had been once a good one, but
was then abandoned and in ruins. Our Mehnandar had great difficulty
to procure the refreshment that was due to us ; but when at length it
arrived, there was a supply of cooks, pots, and provisions, which would
have satisfied an army. Casvin is almost one mass of ruins. A
Zibziiek (an earthquake), within no distant period, threw down the
buildings which were in the Tottie, and made cracks in almost eveiy
wall. A large mosque, built by the Abbasses, has been rent in many
places in its thick walls, and totally ruined.

11th. The storm of thunder and rain which we had foreboded, fell in
the evening of the preceding day, and refreshed the air which had been
sultry, and gave us a most delightful morning.

We left Casvin just as the morning broke at about four o'clock ; and
proceeded in a direction of S. 40 W. to Siah Dehan, a village in the
plain of Casvin, a distance of twenty miles, called six fursungs, which
we performed in five hours. The road over this part of the plain was
tfoe most beautiful and the most level of any that I had seen in Persia.
It was fine hard gravel; and the plain on each side of it was in high
verdure, one grass plat on which many thousands of cavalry might ma-
noeuvre admirably.

The villages continued as numerous as those that we had before re-
marked in our last day's route. They were neatly entrenched in square
walls with towers at each angle. The wind which blew from the North-
ward refreshed the air, and made it even cold : this, which is here the
prevailing wind, is called the Baad Gagazgoon, as it blows from a little
district of that name, composed of ten or fifteen small villages, situated
on the N. hills. At four miles from Siah Dehan we stopped at a village
on the side of the road called Keck, The inhabitants looked at us over
the walls, and did not seem willing to come out to us ; at last a little
boy ventured forth : I questioned him about his own village and those
around, but he seemed shy in giving answers ; and when he saw me
take out my pocket-book to write down the memoranda, he asked me
with a very suspicious face, " What are you writing there? ' and then

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

235

ran off as fast as lie could. In a little time after we heard his compa-
nions cry out, " the j are Roos," (or Russians), a report which, of
course, he had spread abroad in his village, to the fear of all tj*e
inhabitants.

I^ie name of the Tillages, according to his intelligence, were, Keiwh,
distant two fursungs, N. 10 W.; Akchegan, one fursimg and a half,
N. 60 W. ; Ash-hasar, N. 40 W. ; and Alwgaya, .two fwmngs, N.
30 W. All this plain is under the jurisdiction of Qasvin; I should think
it about thirty miles in breadth, but a haze over the country might de^
ceive me. The mountains to the right are here diminished to hills;
and, joining the Southern mountains on a bearing of S. 40 W. terminate
the plain of Ca&vin. On the plain we saw the houpe, partridges, and
two deer, with many flocks of sheep. Siah Dehan has abon?t fjye -hun-
dred houses. The inhabitants complain <of ;a great scarcity of water;
and, though their village is surrounded by gardens^ .they expect altoge-
ther but miserable crops. They told us, with much warmth, of the
injustice with which another village had aptparopxiated the wate of §iafy
Dehau to their .own use, by turning Hhe course of the Kcmaiits. W#
were lodged in the ibest house that the place could afford, and had a
barber to wait on us. This custom of making ;the (barber the Mammt
d' Affaires is common to ithe villages around.

12th. We went from Siteh Dehan to Mourn, a place situated at fthe
end of the plain of Casvin, and the first in the Bolouk of Hamze'. The
distance is called six fursungs, but from the time (seven houra) that we
-were on our horses, I should reckon it at :twenty-five miles. As we set
off at midnight I. did not distinguish much on either side, till the break
of day, when I discovered several very .pretty villages, on the hills and
near the side of the road <to the left. The plain had here narrowed, 'to a
foreadth of about three miles: the hills to the right were quite /diminu-
tive, and those to the left were decreasing in their 'height. "■ T>he bearing
of Nouri from Siah Dehan may be about W. ; this is a guess, for at night
I could only judge by the position ,of the stars, and in ;the day my

256

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

compass would not traverse. We stopped at a village called Couwi,
to feed our horses on the new barley which was in some places breast-
high. A peasant told us that two neighbouring villages to the Eastward
were called Ziabet and Parsin; they are situated on the banks of a
small stream, which meanders through the plain from W. to E. There
are many other villages, the names of which I did not learn, all sur-
rounded by cultivation, and forming green and picturesque objects.
The whole country, indeed, was one carpet of verdure; and on the
breaking of the morning the freshness of the odour was beyond any
thing grateful. We had several severe showers; the storm gathering
over the Western hills, and falling down in great torrents. This rain, so
providential for the poor Ray at >$, seemed to spread universal joy
amongst them.

13th. We proceeded this morning just as the sun rose, and were
four hours on the road, to Sihin Calih, on a bearing of N. 45 W. and
a distance called four fursungs, and by my calculation about fourteen
miles. At about three miles on the left of the road, amid very
picturesque scenery, is the small village of Sherafabad. From this at
the distance of a mile, (in a situation equally picturesque, and sur-
rounded for a considerable distance by trees and cultivation) is the
large place of Abhar. About three miles further on, still on the
same side of the road, lies Khorremderre, in the bosom of trees
and gardens.

We stopped on its skirts to feed our cattle, and to breakfast. We
seated ourselves under the shade of some cherry trees, and by the side
of one of the running streams of fine pure water, which abound in the
neighbourhood We met a caravan on a pilgrimage to the tomb of
Imaum Reza, at Mesched ; the Chaoush or conductor of which, (a
man on horseback carrying a green triangular flag) complained to us
that the people at Khorremderre had stolen his cloak. We sent a man
with him into the town, and after some difficulty, procured the
recovery of the garb to its right owner.

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257

The next village was Heeah, still on the left ; and then Sihin Calth,
to which (at the distance of about a mile) we turned off from the road
on a bearing of W. All these villages are in the MahalS of Hamzt.
Grass is extremely plentiful all over this country ; and, from all that I
can see, the passage of a large body of men would not be impeded by
the want of provisions. On these plains the King's horses graze annu-
ally : and here every summer his troops are collected. Magazines for
their supplies are formed at Sultanieh. A strong wind from the West-
ward blew from two hours before sunrise to two hours before sunset,
and brought clouds with it ; in the morning it was unpleasantly cold.
On the rising ground to the Southward of Sihin CalSh 9 are some ancient
tomb-stones, some of which are carved in a curious manner ; among
other things, there was a lion in stone — a certain sign of antiquity.
The Arabic character also appeared to me very old.

14th. From Sihin Caleh we went to SultaniSh, a distance called
four fursungs ; we were four hours on the road, and, as we walked a
good pace, I should place the whole at sixteen miles. Of these twelve
are on a bearing of N. 40 W. to a pass (called Tcng Ali Acbar)
through a small rising of the plain ; and the remainder to SultaniSh,
N. 80 W. On the height of the pass are the ruins of buildings,
which are said to be those of the gate. From this pass Sultanieh is
immediately seen ; it lies near the Southern hills, and spreads itself N.
and S. over the plain to a considerable extent, containing the pre-
sent village among the ruins of the ancient city. I went to a tape
on the South, before we entered the place, and took a general view
of the whole.

The principal object among the remains of the ancient town is an
immense structure, which is called the tomb of Sultan Mohamed
KhodabendSh, and is said to be six hundred years old. A cupola rest?
on an octagonal base, on each angle of which arose a minaret ; one
only of which is now entire. At each angle also was a staircase, and
in each of the sides was a door ; and, as there is one wing which pro-

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jects from the base, the whole probably, in its original plan, was
similarly surrounded by additional buildings. The principal gate
fronted the East : it is now in part remaining, but in a short time will
be entirely demolished ; as during our visit there were many workmen
employed in pulling it down, to use the materials in some of the King's
pleasure-houses. The whole structure is of a fine brick admirably put
together. The cupola and minarets were covered with a green-lac-
quered tile, most of which is now pealed off. The great architrave
was of Moresque work of a dark-blue-lacquered tile. The arches of the
gates were all enriched with curious ornaments in plaster. The
interior is still admirable, though it is now converted into a magazine
of straw. Nothing however intersects the beautiful symmetry of the
dome. The interior diameter is thirty-five paces, and on a rough
calculation, the height of the dome must be about one hundred feet.
In the centre of the floor among the straw is a pillar of white marble,
probably belonging to the tomb of the King, which is said indeed to
be immediately in that position below the surface. The people told me
that there were many fine marbles under the straw ; and I saw (without
being able to find any descent to them) several arches under ground,
which perhaps, support the whole floor. Over each gate is a gallery,
which extends along the base of the dome, and leads into smaller
galleries within, and into others also on the exterior of the building.
These are beautifully adorned with the neatest work that I had ever
seen ; all the cornices of the doors, the segments of the arches and the
various niches are covered with Arabic sentences ; which in some
places are surmounted in a smaller character by Cujic inscriptions, all
either painted in fresco, or raised in plaster. The whole structure looks
more like a mosque than a tomb, compared at least with those at
Constantinople ; but of any description, and in any place, I do not
recollect a building which could have surpassed this in its original state.
I ascended to the top of one of the shattered minarets, and took the fol-
lowing bearings ; road to Hamadan S. 50 W. ; Teng AH Acbar, S. 70. E.

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

259

This monument appears to stand in the Ark or citadel of the ancient
Sultaniih. Its area is a square (a side of which, on a rough calculation,
might be three hundred yards) and is marked out by a ditch still full of
water. Part also of the ancient wall is yet standing, and bears N. 40 E.
from the tomb ; it is about fifty feet high : the exterior surface is fine, and
the stones, which however are soft and crumbling, are well fitted
together. At the angle of the ditch, there is the segment of a round
tower still remaining ; on one of the stones of which is an Arabic in-
scription, stating that it was built by Sultan Mahomed Khoda-
bendeh; and there is likewise a small rude sculpture of a combat be-
tween two horsemen. At the summit of the wall also, there appears to
be some representation of lions or sphinxes' heads. Mirza Abul
Hassan told me that he remembered, when twenty years ago the
greater part of this wall was standing. The Persians, to illustrate
the original splendour of the city, say, that when the army of
Jenghiz Khan took and plundered SultaniSh, they found in it six
hundred thousand golden cradles.

Here are the remains of several mosques without the enclosure of the
ditch, one of which seems to have been a fine edifice ; they are all built
of the same materials as the tomb. Few monuments in Persia can
hope to survive many ages ; for the Kings, who succeed the founders,
are anxious only to be founders themselves, and instead of taking a
pride to preserve the works of their predecessors, as records of the ge-
nius or greatness of their monarchy, they take pains only to destroy
them, that they may build new structures with the materials, and at-
tach their own names also to great buildings ; never considering how
short-lived, by their own example, will be their reputation after their
decease. The principle extends to private life, and to a certain degree
accounts for the numbers of ruined houses which swell the circum-
ference of Persian cities. Every son is unwilling to repair and inhabit
the house of his father, and is eager to impose his own name on some
new work. The present King has undertaken to found at SultaniSh a
new city, which is to be called Suttanabad, The inhabitants are to be

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supplied from the neighbouring villages, and from the population of
Aderbigian. The Ark or citadel is already built: it is situated close to
the King's pleasure-houses, N. 50 W. from the tomb. The King
and all his troops encamp about June in the plains for many miles
around.

There are an immense number of a peculiar species of rats in the
plain, which dig themselves holes in the ground. Our people caught
several : they have the squeaking of a musk rat, and sit on their hind
legs ; I caught one and took a drawing of it ; it was big with young,
and had four teats on each side ; in colour it was an ugly dun, and in
length measured fifteen inches from the head to the tail : it had five
claws on both fore and hind feet, and long nails at the end. Its head
was flat with a black nose, large black eyes, and an orifice for the ear
without any skin to cover it ; its tail was bushy, and spreading at
the end.*

15th. On quitting SultaniSh we stopped at the King's pleasure-house,
which is built on the tape or hillock, about three quarters of a mile
from the present village. It consists of four divisions, all enclosed
within walls, and raised with materials from the demolished structures
of the ancient city. The first contained a suit of apartments for
women; the second was a polyangular building, as yet unfurnished
(crowned at the top by a small dome) surrounded by a railing, and called
like so many others, Koola-frangee. This, as we are told, was built after
a drawing given to the King by one of the Gentlemen of the French
Embassy. From this we went through a long arched and gloomy
passage to the King's Khalwet or private room. Here there is a picture
of his Majesty killing a stag in the chase, and a portrait of each of
his principal sons, painted in fresco on the walls. From this we went
to the fourth, which is the Dewan Khoneh, and opens upon the whole of

* It appears to be the Earless Marmot of Pennant, p. 135; the Arctomys of
LlNNiEUS, p. 145.

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

261

the plain. Here the King sits in state; and, on a terraced platform
below stand his sons and nobles: the whole is on a small and trifling
scale, and displays no great ingenuity in the builder or wealth in the
possessor.

We proceeded to Zengan: the distance is called six fursungs, and we
performed it in six hours ; but from the quick pace at which our horses
walked, I may reckon it at twenty-four miles. Till the last four miles
our route bore N. 30 W.; we then turned to N. 80 W.

The mountains on the left diminished very much, and were green to
their summits. They terminated at a bearing of W. and behind them
commenced another chain, which, when the immense clouds on their
summits occasionally rolled off, appeared very high.

The plain ground over which we had travelled from Casvin, now be-
came hilly and broken ; and in some places the soil, which before had
been universally hard, was soft; and the road, from the rain which had
fallen, was rendered swampy and muddy. In the course of the day
indeed we had much rain, though only in showers ; and in the morning
there was a rainbow. All this part of the country is well watered by a
variety of small streams, but by no one of any note. We saw the
plough at work in many parts of the country on a fine rich soil. The
plough here is a rude instrument indeed ; it is a large piece of wood
making an angle with another, which being sharpened at the end, and
frequently tipt with iron, forms the plough-share. It is drawn by two
oxen or sometimes by one, and sometimes only by an ass. About six
miles before we reached Zengan, on the left of the road there is a well-
built village with walls and towers all around, and a small Ark in the
centre, called Dehsis. The vegetation all over the country is extremely
rich, and certainly the most luxuriant which we had seen.

Zengan is a large town, and is the capital of the Mahale of Hamze,
which contains one hundred villages. The whole district, by the gift
of the King, is the property and government of Ferrajoula Khan,
the Nasakchee Bashee. The Mahale pays no revenue, but it furnishes
the King five thousand horsemen complete, who are paid, fed, and

262

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

clothed from its own produce. On entering the town there is an im-
mense enclosed garden full of every species of trees.

16th. From Zengan we went to Armaghaneh, and were six hours on
the road; on a general bearing of N. I call this also twenty-four miles,
as we walked a good pace. On the left, in a valley, I saw several
villages ; the two principal of which are Koushek and Barri. Others
are also situated on the declivity of the hills ; the road all the way is
full of ascents and descents ; and at about five miles from Zengan we
came to a valley, perhaps a bend and a continuation of that which we
had already noticed. At the bottom flowed from E. to W. a stream of
beautiful water, which came from the mountains to the N. E. of our
route, and which was formed indeed principally by the melting of their
snows and the rains. In its vicinity was much cultivated ground; and
the peasants had raised its waters in many places to carry the fertility
still further into the fields. At the interval of about six miles there is
a similar valley and a similar stream, the waters of which equally assist
the cultivation of the country, and redeem it from the waste of the in-
termediate tract. We saw many tents of Elauts of the tribe Choi-
sevend, whose cattle were grazing in the line between the two streams.
They were represented to me as very warlike and brave, on which ac-
count the King enrolled many of them in his Goolams and troops ; and
I was told, that they had been the principal heroes in the war with the
Russians. Their tribe consists of six thousand families. Their chief is
at Teheran, and is a Khan of much consequence. They live always
in tents, changing their situation with the seasons, and are very rich in
camels. After having crossed the second stream we rested, and fed
our horses on the new barley, which was there about a knee high. As we
proceeded we met a caravan of pilgrims, from Derbend on the Caspian,
going to the Zeeauret of Mesched. Not one could speak a word of
Persian ; indeed Turkish, from this point and henceforward, is the ver-
nacular language spoken by the people of the villages ; and it is rather
rare to find any one of the inhabitants who can talk Persian fluently.
These pilgrims wore a white band about their sheep-skin caps as a mark

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

263

of their holy destination ; and preceded by a Chaoush bearing a green
flag, joined all in loud cries as he excited them.

About four miles before we reached our stage we came to a third
stream, which run with great velocity through different artificial chan-
nels, and the borders of which were richly cultivated with rice and
barley. On the right, just before Armaghanih, is a little village called
HoulouMh.

The whole region from Zengan is intersected at almost regular dis-
tances by vallies ; in one of which lies Armagha?ieh, so concealed by
its situation, that it is scarcely seen till it is entered. To the Westward
appears a long range of mountains ; but the hills which we had passed
in the day's march, though sometimes of rock and flint, were generally
green to their very summits ; and the soil was mostly rich earth, which, in
some places, was spread with the hues of a thousand flowers. Through-
out the whole tract, indeed, every thing was in life and spring. The
animals felt the influence of the season ; and our horses in passing the
herds around were scarcely manageable. One threw his rider; and
after having given him a bite on the shoulder, attacked his fellows, and
fought with some fury. The singing of the larks in the morning, and the
whole tribes that swept along the air, gave a zest to the freshness of the
dawn that was beyond description. The whole creation seemed to
give praise to its great Creator.

Armaghaneh also is included in the Bolouk of Hamze. In the town
there is a square fort. In the room, into which we were introduced,
there were several European inscriptions, mostly in Russian, but one in
Latin, written I suspect by a Frenchman's pencil, and worthy therefore
to be transcribed, as displaying the spirit and temper with which they
left the country :

" VENIMUS, VIDIMUS, ET MALEDIXIMUS PERSIDI;
" REGIQUE, AULJEQ ; MAGNATIBUSQ ; POPULOQ '—
" SCJRIBEBANT IDIBUS APRILIS, 1809 * * V

264

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

M. Jouannin and his companion indeed, by all the accounts which
I received in following the line of their route, had no greater reason to
be satisfied with their accommodations on the road, than with the mode
of their leaving Teheran. We were told at Sultanieh> that no one there
would furnish them with mules to transport their baggage, and they
were obliged to be content with asses.

The night was so cold at ArmaghanSh that we had a fire, and our
people wore their sheep-skins. ArmaghanSh indeed, and our next
stage, Auk-ke?id, are very high.

17th. We quitted ArmaghanSh at four o'clock (an hour before sun-
rise, and enjoyed the freshness, not to say cold) of the twilight, and the
beauty of the breaking morning. We were seven hours on the road
to Auk-kend, which I shall reckon a distance of twenty-eight miles, on
a general bearing of N. 15 W. Our road was over a succession of
hills, the vallies of which were mostly cultivated. The whole surface
indeed was generally green, and displayed an appearance of more
prosperity than any part which we had seen on the other side of Teheran.
The soil, though in many places broken by rocks and slate, was fine,
and watered by many small streams. At about twelve miles from
ArmaghanSh on the left of the road, is the village of Dasht-Bolagh,
situated nearly between two conical hills ; on the tops of which are col-
lections of rocks, appearing at a distance like the ruins of towers.

After this we reached an eminence, from which an immense range of
high mountains covered with snow, extended itself before us. The
highest peaks bore on a general line of North ; and, from all that I
could learn, are not far distant from Resht. The general chain ap-
proaches the shores of the Caspian ; but on all geographical subjects it
is difficult to trust the class of persons, from whom alone on the spot
the information can be obtained. They very generally exaggerate,
and are at any rate very ignorant.

The whole region (between these mountains and those to the S.
and W. indeed on every side) is undulatory, without a single clump of
trees to enliven the sameness of the prospect ; if therefore I had seen

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265

this part of the country in winter, I might perhaps have felt it still
more inhospitable than any that we had crossed in the South. But now
cultivation was seen in patches ; here the corn was green, there lands
were just under the ploughman's hands.

As we were eating our breakfast we were overtaken by a man from Te-
heran, who was carrying to the Prince of Tabriz the intelligence that (after
a siege of twelve successive years) the King s troops had taken the strong
place of Tourchiz, on the confines ofKhorassa?i and Usbec Tartary, together
with Mustapha Ali Khan Arab, the Governor, his troops, and the
treasures that it contained. It is six days journey, as far as I could
learn, South from Mesched, and is a fortress on the summit of a moun-
tain, rendered strong by its natural situation. It gives its name to a
very warlike tribe in Khorassan, of which the Governor, Mustapha
Ali Khan Arab, was the chief. A great part of the treasures of
Nadir Shah is said to have been preserved unbroken in Toorchiz,
which would thus further swell the King's collection of jewels and gold.
I asked a Persian what the King would do with the Governor? he
said, " Kill him to be sure ;" and when I suggested, that it might be
better to retain in his own service a man so bold and determined, he
answered, " No : such sort of things may be very well with you ; but
" the Persians are not so ; the better you treat them, the worse they
" will treat you. The King, if he were not to kill him, would never be
" sure of him, for he would certainly rebel against him."

On approaching Auk-kend, one of our attendants, who had dis-
mounted for the purpose of letting his horse walk easily up the hill, by
some chance suffered him to escape : all attempts to catch him were
vain, until a chatter or walking footman, belonging to Mirza Abul
Hassan, seized him by the bridle, when the horse retired some steps,
and then open-mouthed made a bound at the chatter, caught him by
the neck, and placing one of his fore-knees upon him, kept him thus
with his head on the ground, until he was beat off. He was then
seized by his master, to whom he meditated the same fate, and whom

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in fact he threw down most violently with his fore feet, though ^he
final and furious gripe was prevented.

Auk-kend is now the frontier place in Aderbigian; the original
boundary was the river Kizzil Ozan, but it has been thus extended
through the King's favour to his son Abbas Mirza, the Governor
of the province. Auk-kend indeed is in the district of Khalcal, which,
though certainly under the jurisdiction of the Prince, is immediately
administered by two Khans, and contains two hundred villages, extend-
ing between Resht and Ardcbil. Formerly it was a very flourishing
region; but the war with Russia, in which it has been obliged to
supply troops, and at its own expence pay, feed, and clothe them, has
much impoverished it, and, as the Persians say, " Kharrab Shoud, it
is ruined/'

18th. We proceeded from Auk-kend, at twenty minutes before five,
and arrived at Miaunth at one o'clock. We stopped on the road to
feed our horses, which detained us one hour and an half, so that we
had six hours and forty minutes riding, which, at three miles and a
quarter in the hour, gives a total of twenty-two miles : I reckon thus
little to the hour, because the whole of our march was over moun-
tainous country. Our road was much to the Westward. The mountain
Coflan Kou, which rose above us, bore S. 80 W. but, as we went some-
what more to the W. I shall place the general bearing at W.

The whole country here (and particularly that to the W. and N.)
seems to have been just formed by a great convulsion of nature ; there
are lands of every soil, of every colour, and of every form. At the
distance of six miles from Auk-kend we came to a small village called
Kiiltept; we should have stopped here to have fed our horses, but
there was nothing but wheat-corn growing around the place ; from this
our suite always abstained most religiously, though they never scrupled
to enter any barley field that might border on the road, and turning
their cattle into the very middle without their bridles suffered them to
eat their fill unlimited, nor was there any one that dared oppose

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

267

such an inroad, which is indeed the privilege of every officer of govern-
ment. I was quite vexed one day (when a poor man came and in-
treated the Persians to take their horses out of his field, for that its
produce was his sole subsistence) to see the inhumanity with which
they treated him ; and, after having administered a few blows to his
shoulders, compelled him to hold their horses as they were eating his
own property before his face.

At about half past nine o'clock, and about fifteen miles from Auk-kend,
we came to the banks of the Kizzil Ozan. The stream runs from West to
East, in a bed of about two hundred yards in breadth, which was then
in a great measure dry. It rises in the mountains of Gerustan, about
five days journey from Miami eh, and flows into the Caspian near Reskt.
We crossed it on a bridge, which appeared a very ancient structure,
and is now falling fast to decay.

It has three principal arches, the one to the W. is modern compared
with the other part of the structure, having been restored by Aga
Mahomed Khan; as a small inscription on the new buttress inti-
mates. The original bridge is attributed to Shah Abbas; but, from
its structure, which does not resemble that of the Seffis, and from an
inscription in the Cufick character (which is worked in brick all around
the principal arch) and another in a square on one of the old buttresses,
I should suspect that it is much more ancient, and must be referred
indeed to the earliest ages of Mahomedanism. When on the borders
of the stream I was too distant to sec the characters distinctly enough
to copy them.

We commenced the ascent of the Coftan Kou immediately on quitting
the river, and were just one hour in gaining its greatest height, and half
an hour in descending into the plain on the opposite side. The chain
of mountains, of which this forms a part, is the proper boundary of
Aderbigian. Near the bridge on the right, in ascending the mountain,
there is a singular rock which has been fortified with walls and turrets,
probably coeval with the bridge. This also, however, appears to have
been restored in some parts by a modern hand, as in front there is a

m M 2

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structure of fresh brick, which does not correspond with the turrets of
the main building. All is now in ruins : indeed it could have been of
value as a military hold, only in times when artillery was not used, as it
is commanded by every hill around. I took a sketch of it from the
ascent of the mountains. The old bridge below adds a very picturesque
object to the surrounding heights and the scenery of the stream. On
the ascent of the mountain, (over that part which in winter must be of
more difficult passage,) there are the remains of a causeway, attributed
in like manner, to a Shah Abbas, and extending for several miles.

In descending to the plain on the Western side of the Coflan Kou, we
saw another river called Rood Khonth MiaunSh, which also flows from
West to East, having combined before we crossed it, three several
streams (the Ceransou, the Sheher Cheyee, and the Aye Dogmoitsh,) and
about one fur sung to the Eastward, carrying their united waters into
the KizzilOzan. The sources, according to my informer, an old moun-
taineer at MiaunSh, were about two day's journey from his town ; in a
direction, by the pointing of his hand, of N. 70 W. among the moun-
tains of Sahat Dun. We passed the river over a bridge of twenty-one
arches, in appearance indeed as old as that just described, but in style
of structure resembling so much the bridge of Alwerdy Khan at Ispa-
han, a work of the age of the Seffis, that it may be ascribed to a Prince
of the same race with much less improbability, than that over the
Kizzil Ozan can be attributed to Shah Abbas. If there are not
immediate repairs, the whole in a few years will fall into the
water.

It was extremely hot in the recess of the mountains, with a light
haze from the Westward. The sun set N. 73 W. Miaimeh, where we
passed the night, was once a large town, and its broken walls and gates
are still to be seen. It is now, indeed, a poor miserable village, yet is
the chief place of a tribe called Chedaughee, who are reputed to be
very ferocious. The master of the house, where we lodged, was gone to
Tabriz ; and his son, a boy of fourteen, officiated in his place with a
propriety and dexterity which were quite amusing. He asked the

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269

Mehnandar for his firman, very gravely sat down and read it, then with
a fine flow of compliments said, that every thing that he had was freely
at our command ; and that we must make his kitchen ours, and that,
in short, he was our slave. In these countries the manners and facul-
ties ripen long before those of Northern climates. An English boy
in the same predicament would have run and hid himself in the
stable.

We were, however, rather annoyed by a great big fellow, a Ferosh of
Prince Abbas Mirza, who pretended to much power in the place.
In the finnan which the Mehmandar carried from the King, one of the
articles with which the village was required to provide him was the sum
of three tomauns. These he was wont to receive as his own perqui-
site; and this is one of the various modes by which the King pays his
servants without the necessity of applying to his own treasures. But
to this, in this instance, the Ferosh objected, swearing that there was no
money in MiaunSh, and that none could be raised. The Mehmandar,
on his side, talked of nothing but the King's Royal command, which
must be obeyed before all things : to this again the Ferosh objected,
and said that he would abide by nothing but an order from his own im*
mediate superior, the Ferosh Basket of Prince Abbas Mirza. The
Mirza was at length obliged to interfere: the Ferosh, in fact, had been
paid by the peasantry to guard them from the extortion of strangers,
and like a faithful servant he was endeavouring to do all that he could
in their favour. To complete the business however, the Mehmandar,
on our arrival at the close of the day's journey, missed a pair of new
green slippers, which loss he naturally charged to the dishonesty of his
antagonist the Ferosh.

Since there have been such great interests pending in the North of
Persia with the Russians, the Government has established Chopper
Khonth, or post-houses, from Tabriz to Teheran, to facilitate the trans-
mission of news, so that a courier may traverse the distance easily in
three days. A Ferosh has been placed by the Prince Governor of
Aderbigian, in each of the villages within his territory, (in which these

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establishments are formed) to see that every department be carried on
with dispatch and regularity. Twenty to twenty-five horses (purchased
by the Prince, and kept at his own expence) are always ready at each
of these houses, and the whole institution is supported from his own
purse. But beyond the bounds of his province, this public service is
defrayed by the Ray at on the line of road.

19th. We were six hours and a half on the road, a distance of twenty-
One miles, from Miaunth to Turkomen Cheyee. The road is one succession
of high hills, generally with a small stream in the vallies below, flow-
ing from the mountains of Bisgoush, which extend almost to Tabriz
on the N. W. and to near Resht in the territory ot Khalcal, on the
N. E. and the snows of which seemed then to be rapidly melting, and
(by the discolouration of the water) to have formed these streams. On
setting out from Miaunth, we rode by the banks, and frequently crossed
one of these streams, which was up to the bellies of the horses and
very rapid. I frequently set the bearing of our road from the top of
the hills, which was N. 70 W. and (though varying now to the W.
then to the E.) may be fixed generally at that point. The whole is
very easy of access, nor indeed did I see any part on this side of
Teheran, where an army would meet with impediment, except on
the Cofian Kou, and there only in a few passes: and from the
present appearance of the country, magazines might be formed every
where.

The weather during the last two days was extremely sultry, and we
suffered greatly from the heat. The tract indeed, over which we
were passing, is called by the Persians Germesir, or the hot, from the
notoriety of its temperature. The corn at Miauneh was accord-
ingly much more advanced than in any previous part of the country.

There is a small village to the S. of Turkomen Cheyee, called Caraych,
situated on the back of the hill. The valley of Turkomen Cheyee is
one carpet of green, richly cultivated in every part. About noon the
clouds gathered ; and as we were feeding our horses, a shower of rain,
with thunder, surprised and refreshed us after our hot ride.

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

271

On the 20th, we went to Tekme-dash, twenty-one miles, on a bearing
of N. 40 W. over the same sort of country as that which we had
crossed on the preceding day ; but the ground was much saturated
by the late rain, and, as the soil was soft, our road was rendered very
disagreeable. At about six miles from TurJcomen Cheyet we came to
a valley richly cultivated ; and about two miles on the right, was the
village of Uzumchee. We saw some other villages, situated at a
distance from the road, on the heights of the mountain. We passed
two ruined caravanserais. The last was about three miles from
Tekme-dash; and, by an inscription on the gate, was built by a servant
of Shah Abbas. Not a tree appears over all the country, but
there is generally much cultivation. A little after sunrise we saw
some high mountains bearing about N. W. Soon after our arrival a
smiling lad came in with a paper in his hand, and presented it to the
Mirza. It was a petition from himself and his school fellows, to beg
a holiday for them from their master ; an address which they never
fail to make to any man of consequence, who may happen to pass
through their village. The children here are taught Persian in the
schools ; the Turkish being the native tongue of the country. There
was a very strong wind from the West, which, as the people told us,
had blown for five or six days ; and, though it fell as the sun went
down, the cold during the night was very severe.

21st. The six hours and a half which we spent on the road
to Saidabad to-day, were very pleasant, as we had covered weather
with a fine fresh breeze from the W. We went twenty-five
miles in the direction of N. 40 W. on a good* road, which had
been hardened by the late wind. At about five miles from
Tekme-dash, on the left, is the village of Bini Kieu ; and a little
further, (on a rising ground through which the road passes,) are a cok
lection of large stones, apparently the remains of a building, with a
few large oblong blocks curiously carved, which certainly belonged to it
They resembled, indeed, rather the tomb-stones which I had remarked

272

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

before ; but they had no characters upon them. At about five miles
before we came to Saidabad we entered a pass in the mountain, on the
right of which, as we left the plain, we noticed a piece of water with
much wild fowl upon it. After having ascended and again descended
the pass, (from the summit of which we had a view of the mountain of
Tabriz), we came to a caravanserai situated amid very picturesque
scenery just at the bottom. The right wing, and many other parts of
this edifice, were falling into ruin. It contains a square area of two
hundred and sixty paces of an admirable and solid construction; the
work of the Seffis, strongly contrasted with the comparatively misera-
ble buildings of the present day in Persia. The fine arches of the
domes attest the excellence of art in the age of its erection. The inte-
rior arrangements are very good : on each side of the square are rooms,
each with a fire-place, and in the centre of the whole is a large square
compartment, divided into a variety of chambers of all descriptions,
with recesses for horses. All this is built of a fine brick, with a strong
foundation, and occasional reliefs of stone. At the foot of the whole
building, at close intervals, are stones cut for the convenience of
tying up cattle. At this spot we were overtaken by a storm of thunder
and hail, and driven to seek refuge in the caravanserai; where the
gloom of the old building, enlivened by the grotesque figures of our
party, reminded me of those scenes of romance which modern writers
have so frequently laboured to describe.

We turned off from the high road to the left, and at about two miles
and a half from the caravanserai reached Saidabad. We found in it a
mud fort, and houses with roofs arched but extremely low. Our ser-
vants were introduced into a chamber, a part of which was already
occupied by a family of young asses ; the rest was all their own. In all
parts of the village were small pyramids of cow-dung, the different
collections of the poor inhabitants for their winter fuel. The walls
of their houses were likewise covered with great cakes of the
same materials, which were then drying as additions to their

TEHERAN TO TABMZ.

27$

stock. The common children collect this ; and I foa^e frequently
seen two little creatures contending for it with the highest anxiety and
animation.

There is so great a scarcity of wood owsr the whdle country
through which we have passed, that the poor are necessarily re-
duced to these extremities for the supply of their wants. Iti general
they are miserably clad; the children have scarcely amy thing to
cover them but a shirt of coarse linen, which hardly "reaches their
middle ; and the women wear nothing but a shirt, a pair of drawers, a
jacket, and a veil, which covers their head and serves them on all occa-
sions. Even in these poor villages the females are inconceivably shy.
I happened to be standing near the place where the people were loading
our baggage, when a poor woman seemed anxious to come forth from
the neighbouring house, but durst not whilst a man was near. She
kept peeping at intervals through the door for nearly half an hour, and
drew in her head precipitately, although muffled, whenever a man's face
was turned towards her. When I have told the Persians that in Europe
a husband has but one wife, and that in company we pay more civility
to any female than to the greatest man, they have remained astonished,
wondering that creatures (as women in their eyes appear), born only
for their pleasure and convenience, should at all partake of any of
those attentions which they deem to be due to Themselves exclusively.

As we were seated in our miserable dwelling, the village music at-
tended us, composed of a singer, and players on the tambourine and on
two kamounchas. To the great mortification of these poor people we
dispensed with their noise, which, if it had begun, would not readily
have ended.

22d. From Saidabad to Tabriz is a distance of about fourteen
miles, on a direction of N. 50 W. There are said to be two vol-
canoes in the neighbourhood. Having travelled ten miles, we stop-
ped to breakfast at a charming spot, near a beautiful stream of
water, crossing us from S. W. to N. E. and surrounded by more wood
than altogether we had seen all over the latter part of our journey,

N N

274

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

They are principally poplar (almost the only tree indeed which we had
remarked in our route) and many are felled for building. Within two
miles of Tabriz there is a village on a hillock, called Condorood; and
immediately on the skirts of this spot is another, called Basmidge:
on leaving which we saw great numbers of those square and oblong
stones, so often mentioned in my Journal. As among them there are
modern tombs, the original intent of the more ancient stones is cer-
tainly the same.

CHAP. XV.

TABRIZ.

APPROACH TO TABRIZ ENTRANCE HEALTHINESS OF THE

SITUATION GARDENS MARBLE OF TABRIZ DESCRIPTION OF

THE CITY CHARACTER OF THE PRINCE ANECDOTES — PER-
SIAN HORSEMANSHIP MILITARY QUALITIES FORCE OF THE

PROVINCE THE FIRST MINISTER GOVERNMENT AND SUCCESS

OF THE PRINCE PROJECTS OF IMPROVEMENT SHIPS REVE-
NUE OF THE PROVINCE POPULATION OF TABRIZ ENTERTAIN-
MENT PERSIAN CONVERSATION MANNERS ACCOUNT OF MA-

ZANDERAN FAUCES HYRCANIiE? VESSELS OF THE CASPIAN

GHILAN — THE GOUDARS TURCOMANS; INROADS; CONDUCT

TO THEIR PRISONERS KAMCHAUKS.

THE road across the plain towards Tabriz is very fine; and on each
side of it we saw numerous ploughs. Four oxen were employed to
each; for the soil is here hard, and turned with more difficulty. The
implement itself, however, appeared more ponderous than any that we
had seen before. About three miles from Tabriz the road is intersected
by hills of a sandy and stony soil. Here we were met by an officer

N N 2

276

TABRIZ.

deputed from the Prince to greet our arrival. He was accompanied
by ten or fifteen men, and preceded by a led horse. As soon as our
party perceived their approach, it was ridiculous enough to see how
every one put on any the smallest piece of finery that he possessed, in
order to strike the others with respect. The Mirza alighted from his
mule and mounted a horse ; and when we met, all the flattery and com-
pliments were repeated with the same sincerity as before on our road
to Teheran. They talked of themselves and their government with
singular complacency, and of the Russians with the utmost contempt.
The officer who came to meet us sard, " they fear us like dogs ; we
" have every thing better than they have; they will never dare to shew
" their faces again/'

Tabriz first appears between the angle of the bases of two hills, and
then opens to the view by degrees. In the season in which we saw it,
it formed a pretty object; as the constant monotony of the mud-
walls and mud-brick houses was hid by the rich foliage of the trees,
which are interspersed throughout the city. Close to the walls, near
the Teheran gate,, is the complete ruin of a mosque, but still sufficiently
preserved to shew how fine a structure it must once have been. It
was built about six hundred years ago, by Shah Shem Gnu z an,
(the successor of Shah Mahomed Khodabendeh, whose tomb has
been described at Sultanieh,) but it has been destroyed by an earth-
quake within thirty years. The inhabitants extol the fruitfulness of the
territory, anc the salubrity of the air of Tabriz. Its very name,
according to the Persian etymology, indicates- Hie excellence of its
situation, for it is composed of Tah a fever, and riz fled * They

• In- Grant's fine and characteristic sketch of the conquests of Nadir, he is led to

" Media's vales,

"Where Health on Tabriz breathes with all her gales."

Restoration of Learning in tfie East, 1805, p. 87.

The same derivation of the name from the qualities of the situation is given by Sir

TABRIZ.

277

complain, however, (though as of their only, inconvenience) of frequent
and violent earthquakes, which they attribute to the volcanoes in the
district, which throw out smoke but no name. The smoke is so
mephitical, that it kills immediately a dog or fowl placed over
it. The volcanoes are particularly to the East, in mountains of a
red and copper-like appearance, announcing much mineral matter.
The climate of Tabriz is subject also to much thunder, lightning,
and rain.

Tabriz is no more the magnificent city described by Chardiw: all
its large buildings have been destroyed by earthquakes. I rode round
the walls, and estimated the circumference at three miles. Three of
the gates are ornamented with pillars, inlaid with green-lacquered
bricks, and look very respectable ; the other five are very small and
mean. The walls are very weak, and here and there renewed with
mud-bricks baked in the sun. The whole town is surrounded by
gardens, which the Persians call Meewa-khonSh, or fruit-houses. One of
these, to the West, belonging to Hajee Khan Mahomed, is very
extensive, and planted entirely with fruit-trees, excepting one row of
poplars ; the only other wood indeed, which I saw at Tabriz? and that
of which all the timber-work of their houses is constructed. There are
thousands therefore planted on the borders of every stream about the
city. The abundance of fruit in the season was already evident, by
the state of the gardens, and particularly of the apricot trees. In
the spaces between the lines, were mounds of earths in rows, on which
vines were extended on an angle of about 60°, and irrigated by
water introduced through channels formed by the bases of the
mounds.

William Jones — " Tab signifies a fever, and riz is the participle of rekhten to disperse,
" There was an ancient city which stood nearly in the same place, and is called TaGpU
" by Ptolemy." — Description of Asia subjoined to the "Ilistoire de Nader Chah : " Works,
Vol. V. p. 570.

273

TABRIZ.

To the N. W. of the city is a very extensive burial place ; over the
whole of which are strewed black blocks of stone or granite, carved
in the manner which I have frequently described, and mostly without
an inscription, though some bore the Arabic character. To the S. W.
of the town are some more of these ancient tombs, one of which
is of the red stone, evidently cut from the adjacent mountains ; the
others are of a black marble, which takes a fine polish, but which is
now no longer used, nor could I learn even the situation of the
quarries. One of the stones measured eight feet and a half in length,
and two feet and a half in breadth ; and covered probably some very
distinguished hero : near it is a small mosque.

The transparent or rather diaphanous substance, with beautiful
veins, (which is called the marble of Tabriz, and which I have described
in some of the public buildings at Shiraz and Ispahan) is not procured
near the city or taken from a quarry, but is said to be rather a petrifac-
tion found in large quantities, and in immense blocks, on the borders of
the lake Shahee, near the town of MeraughSh. It takes the finest
polish, and is employed in baths, in the wainscoting of rooms, in
tomb-stones, and in every other purpose where ornamental marble
is necessary.

There are twelve public baths, some of which are handsome ; and
there is a bazar, which extends the length of the city, but it is mean
and dirty. Tabriz has no mosques of any particular merit : on
entering indeed there is the large ruin already mentioned ; and to the
S. W. of the city (enclosed in the Ark or fort of Ali Shah, which
contains the barracks and magazines) are the remains of another,
now converted into a look-out house. This is a conspicuous, but very
unseemly object, and to me seemed of little use, and from its height
to be the most exposed either to the shock of an earthquake, or to an
attack from a battery. The danger of earthquakes has taught the in-
habitants of Tabriz to build their houses generally as low as possible ;
and to employ more wood than brick and plaster, in their construe-

TABRIZ.

279

tion. For the same reason the bazars have only wooden roofs, and
are not arched as those in tiie better cities of Persia. Yet I am told
that in earthquakes, the domed buildings (particularly the Hummum
Khan, the largest in Tabriz) have invariably stood ; where others, the
strongest walls, have been rent asunder.

Tabriz had declined to an insignificant place, when about four years
ago the present Prince, Abbas Mirza, the Heir Apparent of the
crown, was appointed to the government of Aderbigian, and made it
his capital. When we visited his city, he had resided there four
years, and had guarded the frontiers of Persia against the Russians.
During that time he had repaired and beautified the walls, had made
a new Maidan, and erected some new buildings. Indeed, before,
there was no place fit for his habitation ; and all the great men attached
to his court have since been obliged to build houses for their own
accommodation.

The Prince is said by the Persians to possess every quality, that
can grace a mortal ; and (as there are many circumstances in his
character, which his countrymen would never think of inventing) I am
inclined to believe them. They were related to me by the Hakim or
Governor of the city, at whose house I lodged during my residence at
Tabriz. Some time ago, three of the Prince's children died ; his
Vizir appeared before him with a mournful face ; the Prince observed
him, and inquired the reason : the Vizir hesitated, " Speak/' said the
Prince, " is there any public disaster ? have the Russians been suc-
cessful? have they taken any more country from us ?" "No,"
answered the Minister, " it is not that ; your children are sick f
" What of that?" asked the Prince ; " But very sick indeed," con-
tinued the Vizir : " Perhaps then they are dead," interrupted the
Father. His Minister confessed the truth. " Dead \" said the Prince,
" why should 1 grieve ? the state has lost nothing by them ; had I lost
" three of my good servants, had three useful officers died, then indeed
" I should have grieved : but my children were babes, and God knows

280

TABRIZ.

" whether, if they had grown up to man's estate, they would have
u proved good servants to their country."

The Prince is remarkable also for the plainness of his dress ; he
never wears any thing more than a coat of common Kcrbas (a strong
cotton cloth) and a plain shawl round his waist. Whenever he sees
any officers of his court in fine laced or brocade clothes, he asks them,
" What is the use of all this finery. Instead of this gold and tinsel,

why not buy yourself a good horse, a good sword, a good gun ; this

flippery belongs to women, not to one, who calls himself a maa
" and a soldier." He inspects himself all the detail of his troops, their
arms, horses, and accoutrements, adopting those that appear to hkn tfit
for use, and rejecting those that are below his standard. The Governor
of the city, who related these traits to me, had in his house at the time
two hundred muskets, which the Prince refused out of two thousand,
that had been sent to him from Teheran, having himself examined every
single gun, and tried every lock. He is said also to be extremely
liberal to his troops, and to give all his money among them.

When I asked the Governor, if Messrs. Jouannin and Nerciat,
of the French Embassy, (who had arrived a few days before us, and
whom I overtook at Tabriz) had as yet departed, he replied that they
were gone. When he came back to me in the evening, he told me
that they were not. He added, that on appearing before the Prince
in the morning, he had related my question and his own answer ; on
which the Prince exclaimed, " You told him that they were gone!
" How could you tell him such a falsehood ; I will not allow any of my
" servants to speak an untruth — Go and tell him that they are not
" gone/' It appeared that the Governor had been really mistaken in
his first report.

The Governor talked also of his Prince's horsemanship, and skill in
the chase, which were unequalled. He told me that at full gallop the
Prince could shoot a deer with a single ball, or with the arrow from
his bow, hit a bird on the wing. He combines indeed the three great

TABRIZ.

281

qualities of the ancient Persians, which Xenophon enumerates,
riding, shooting with the bow, and speaking truth. His countrymen
however are, in general, less severe in their estimate of the requisites of
a great character, and are content to omit the last trait of excellence ;
but they never praise any one without placing in the foremost of his
virtues his horsemanship; in which alone perhaps they possess any
national pride. I once in fact was in some danger of a serious dispute,
by hazarding a doubt, that the Turks rode better than the Persians.
It is quite ridiculous to hear them boast of their own feats on horseback,
and despise the cavalry of every other nation. They always said,
" Perhaps your infantry may surpass ours ; but our horsemen are the
" first in the world ; nothing can stand before their activity and impe-
" tuosity." In fact, they have courage — one of the first qualities of a
horseman ; they ride without the least apprehension over any country,
climb the most dangerous steeps over rock and shrub ; and keep their
way in defiance of every obstacle of ground. They have also a firm
seat, and that on a saddle which, among an hundred different sorts,
would be called the least commodious. But that is all ; they under-
stand nothing of a fine hand, nor indeed with their bridles can they
learn; for they use only a strong snaffle, fastened to the rein by an
immense ring on each side, which they place indifferently in the
strongest or weakest mouths: nor do they know how to spare their
horses and save them unnecessary fatigue ; for their pace is either a
gallop on the full stretch, or a walk. As a nation, as fit stuff for
soldiers, I know of no better materials. The Persian possesses the true
qualities of the soldier; active, inured to labour, careless of life, ad-
miring bravery, and indeed (as the chief object of their ambition)
aspiring to the appellation of resheed or courageous.

The greater part of the Prince's horse were sent out at this season
into different districts, where grass is the most plentiful; and there
were said to be only three thousand men in garrison at Tabriz.
The amount of the general force under the government of the

o o

282

TABRIZ.

Prince, according to the information of his Prime Minister, is as
follows: —

Cavalry - - - -

Infantry ------------

Infantry disciplined in the European manner

22,000

12,000

6,000

40,000

The troops under these descriptions are composed principally of men
furnished in different quotas in lieu of rent by the villages, but paid,
clothed, and fed by the Prince. But besides this number actually en-
rolled, each man has also a substitute, who is similarly instructed in
the use of arms, ready to supply his place if he should be cut off in
battle, or prevented by any other accident.

Mirza Bozurk, first Minister to the Prince, appeared to me by
far the most superior man whom I saw in Persia. I brought a present
to him from the Envoy, which, however, he advised me to offer to the
Prince in my own name, as it was not the custom in their country to
pay a visit empty-handed to a person of rank. I resisted this, because,
in the first place, I saw no necessity for the visit at any rate, as I was
merely a passenger through the province, and had no business at the
court. I mention this trait of liberality, because it is so singular in his
nation. He talked much of the state of improvement in which the
Prince's administration had brought the province of Aderbigian; never
speaking of his own counsels or co-operation, to which so much is
due, but always referring the whole merit to the talents of his Prince.
He said, that within one year they had brought their artillery to a state
of perfection which might rival that of their enemies the Russians ; that
their infantry had now learned the perfect use of arms ; and that, by
the acknowledgment of the Russians themselves, the Persian soldiers
were now a match for them. He added, that no pains had been spared

■oil

TABRIZ.

283

to acquire a knowledge of military tactics, and the theory of fortifica-
tion, which they had gleaned from French and Russian books, trans-
slated by the Prince's order into Persian. The Minister said, that the
Prince was the only person in Persia who had a complete set of charts,
b'e'sides'dra wings of every instrument and weapon used by Europeans
in war. He told me that they had discovered in Aderbigian mines of
iron and brass, which, entirely by their own ingenuity, they made pro-
ductive ; but that they still laboured under the greatest inconvenience
from the want of proper artists and miners, and could not therefore de-
rive the full profit which they might otherwise expect, or as yet reduce
the price of their produce. According to the Minister, better guns are
now cast at Tabriz than at Ispahan ; and they had invented also a small
kind of artillery, which was sufficiently light to be carried by mules
keeping pace with the march of their cavalry over mountains and
difficult passes.

When I offered to procure from England any books and other ne-
cessaries to facilitate their operations and give new light to those sub-
jects upon which they were imperfectly informed ; the Minister replied,
that nothing in the world could afford greater satisfaction to the Prince
and himself; but he added, " there is only one thing which England
" will keep from our knowledge, as she has done from every other
" nation, the art of building ships." I assured him that England
would furnish Persia not with instructions only, but with masters, as
she had done for Turkey and Russia. He answered, " all this may be
" very true ; but there is still an art which she possesses in matters of
" navigation which she will never disclose to any nation. If it be not
" so, how is it possible," he continued, " that her ships should be so
" superior to all others, and that none have ever yet been able to de-
u feat her in any combat at sea." I answered, that her superiority
consisted not in the ships, but, by the blessing of God, in the men that
were in them ; that, in fact, in building ships we were equalled, if not
exceeded, by the French ; and that the superiority could not rest in the
vessels, since a considerable proportion of our navy consisted of prizes

o o 2

284

TABRIZ.

taken in battle. The Minister, however, was unconvinced, and con-
tinued to believe that there was some secret in our naval architecture
on which our success depended. At our parting visit the Minister
added, that the Prince was anxious to have some insight into the
history of England, and desired me to bring with me on my return
some book on the subject. He wished me also to procure for him his-
tories of France and Russia, in order to compare them with those which
he had already got ; for, said he, " the English being known ever to tell
" the truth, and the French and Russians to be less scrupulous, the
" Prince will not be satisfied with what he has learnt, until He hears it
" confirmed by an English pen."

During our residence at his capital, the Prince received intelligence
of the discovery of a lead mine in the territory of Khalcal, fourteen
fursungs from Tabriz, in the direction in which they had found mines
of saltpetre and copper. As a specimen, a large piece of ore, almost
pure and free from earth, was produced. At Bakouba there is a mine
of sulphur. The district of Khalcal alone furnishes to the revenue of
Aderbigian fifty thousand tomauns; the whole of that revenue was
stated to me at seven hundred thousand ; but whatever may be the
correctness of this account which I received from a Persian, the
province is certainly the choicest part of Persia that we saw.

The population of Tabriz is to all appearance much exaggerated ;
I was told indeed that it contained fifty thousand houses, and two
hundred and fifty thousand persons. There are about two hun-
dred Armenian families, who live in a Mahale or parish by themselves.
Tabriz manufactures a great number of silk stuffs, which are much
used.

During our stay at Tabriz the Prince spent a day in the garden of
Hajee Khan Mahomed. Whenever he wishes to shew any mark of
attention, he sends to let the person know that he will be his guest on
such a day. This sort of visit, however, generally costs the entertainer
a large sum (in this instance two thousand tomauns) as the Prince is
followed by his whole household. When he alights from his horse,

TABRIZ.

285

shawls and gold stuffs are strewed on the ground, over which he walks :
a part of the ceremony which is called the Pai-endaz.

28th. I dined with Mirza Hassan, son of the first Minister,
Mirza Bozurk. There were a number of young and pleasant men,
who would have enlivened any company ; but they seemed to vie with
each other in the marvellous. As a specimen ; a Derveish had told
one, that he was in his room when a shock of an earthquake threw him
on the floor, where he lay for a long time in a trance; and on recover-
ing, found himself, to his great surprise, extended in the court-yard,
close under his apartment : a second shock having projected him sense-
less out of the window. Of slight-of-hand they recounted the most
wonderful feats; and to all this, they swear by each other's heads,
eyes, sons, and fathers. The surest prognostic, indeed, of a falsehood is
the number of emphatic oaths by which it is preceded. The Per-
sians are called, with sufficient propriety, the Frenchmen of the East;
they are indeed a talkative, complimentary, and insincere people, yet
in manners agreeable and enlivening.

A description of the etiquettes of the court, or even of private life,
in Persia, would be a work of endless and trifling minutiae. They are
such however, and so well recognised, and so easily observed and
imitated by every class from their youth, and indeed (in the government
under which they live) so strongly mark the gradations of rank, that
no person, even of the meanest condition, is ignorant of his proper
situation, and of the several etiquettes attached to it. In the educa-
tion of a young man of family, the principal feature is the course of
instruction which he receives in the forms and phrases of society. For
that purpose, from the earliest age of the pupil, masters attend who
teach the modes of salutation, and the appropriate compliments to
superiors and inferiors. They also instruct him, where to sit on enter-
ing a Mujlis (or assembly) ; of whom he has the right of precedence,
&c. and greater importance is assigned to this knowledge than almost
to any thing else. Nothing marks this more strongly than the forms
which gradually ascend in a regular scale from the peasant to the King,

286

TABRIZ.

The first Minister appears under the same discipline of humiliation
before his Majesty, as the Hay at, before the Ket Khodd of his village ;
and it is somewhat ridiculous to see that man, who sat in state in his
Dewan, surrounded by a numerous circle of obsequious attendants,
performing the next moment, in his turn, all the offices of one of
those attendants before the King. In Persia, and I believe generally
over the East, a son never sits down in the presence of his father.
Thus the King's sons always stand before him, and are regarded only
as the first of his servants. Prince Abbas Mirza, who is Governor
of Aderbigian, and Heir Apparent of the crown, when he repairs to
the court of his father, appears there like any one of the other sons,
with the single advantage of taking the precedence of the rest.

The King is never approached by his subjects without frequent incli-
nations of the body; and when the person introduced to his presence
has reached a certain distance, he waits until the King orders him to
proceed ; upon which he leaves his shoes, and walks forwards with a
respectful step to a second spot, until His Majesty again directs him to
advance. No one ever sits before the King except relations of Kings,
Poets, learned and Holy Men, and Embassadors : His Ministers and
Officers of State are never admitted to the privilege. The place of
honour is on the left. When an inferior visits a superior, he sits at a
distance, and not on the same musnud. He places himself on the
Numfnud (the long carpet that skirts the room) ; nor even there, till
he is desired : and, in approaching his superior, he is very careful to
cover himself with his outer-coat, and to sit down directly on his
heels, so that his feet are completely hidden. When a servant comes
before his master, he makes an inclination of his body ; and, when he
goes away, he walks backwards until he reaches the door, where he
makes another inclination.

There is as much etiquette in smoking as in sitting. No in-
ferior calls for his kaleoon, until the superior has given the lead.
No one can smoke before the King; and only particular persons
before the Princes.

TABRIZ.

28?

I had some conversation with a native of Mazanderan, who extolled
the virtues of his countrymen, and complained of the ill-conduct of
their rulers, in equal proportion. He himself had been despoiled of
his property, and reduced almost to beggary; but, as he added,
many from his province had gone to India, and by their abilities on a
more favourable ground, had realized fortunes.

He told ine that there were two entrances into Mazanderan ; one, by
the Pile Rud-bar, the road through which leads off the bridge over which
we crossed the Kizzil Ozan ; and the other, by the way of Resht on
the borders of the sea. The Jungle, or wild woodland, is so impene-
trable, that, according to his illustration, an arrow discharged from a
bow cannot force it, but strikes on the exterior reeds. The Pile Rud-
bar is perhaps the ancient Fauces Hyrcanice ; and the accounts of
Olearius, and other modern travellers, as well as the intelligence that
I received, confirm the original tremendous descriptions. I had been
told at Teheran, that men are stationed at different intervals to give
notice to travellers of the approach of others in an opposite direction ;
for in the narrowest part two mules cannot pass, nor can they turn
back. I was further told at Tabriz, that the great causeway built by
Shah Abbas, is falling into total decay; and in some places is so
much ruined, that though mules and horses may still travel upon it,
camels can no longer be used. The avenues therefore to Mazanderan
might be successfully guarded by twenty expert fusileers, against any
force that could be brought. The people indeed had frequently peti-
tioned their government to repair the causeway ; but it has been the
policy of the court to leave it in its present state, that in case of any
necessity the King might retire there in safety, and defend himself
in the inaccessible fastnesses which the condition of the province thus
opposes to an enemy.

The vessels which navigate the Caspian, are (according to the same
authority) very rude and ill-built, being planks put together without
any caulking to their seams ; the people are therefore obliged inces-
santly to bail the water off in buckets ; for they have not learnt the

288

TABRIZ.

use of pumps, a knowledge indeed to which alone he attributed the su-
periority of the Russian vessels.

He told me that the people of Ghilan have a language of their own,
distinct from both the Persian and the Turkish, and bearing indeed
no affinity to either ; although, on questioning him further on the subject,
I found that they had no books written in that language, and that
it was merely a Patois, or corrupted Persian, which the common
people spoke.

In continuing our conversation, he mentioned that near the town of
Ashreff, on the West of Asterabad, is a tribe of people called Gotidar,
in number about one hundred houses, or five hundred souls, who
inhabit the wild country in the neighbourhood. If my Mazanderan
informer may be credited, they are of no religion ; and in the inter-
course of the sexes, appears to descend low into savage life. A man
feeling an inclination for a woman, asks her mother's leave to carry her
out into the woods, where he passes two or three days with her ; and
then either lives with her himself, or returns her to her mother. Their
principal food is the flesh of the wild hog, of which there are vast num-
bers in the district. These hogs are killed by the children of the tribe,
who are exercised almost from the time that they can walk, in the
bow and the matchlock, and are described, in consequence, as never
erring shots.

From him too I received an account of their more celebrated neigh-
bours the Turcomans, the confines of whose territory are close to Astera-
bad. They are Sunnis, and in consequence execrated by the Persians,
who call them Giaours or Infidels. They live in tribes or eels, being
subject to no particular master. Each tribe has, indeed, a nominal
chief chosen by themselves, but possessing no further authority among
them than that of settling differences, and arranging their civil economy.
As a people, they have no fixed habitations ; but carry about the tents
in which they live, and which the Persians call Kara Khader, black
tents. Their general characteristics are those common to all wander-
ing nations ; great hospitality within their own boundaries, and

UK Ull iH KM

TABRIZ.

289

universal depredation abroad. The Turcomans make incursions into
Persia; frequently crossing the wide intervening desert of sand,
and surprising and carrying away from the centre of towns and
villages men, women, and children. They, even now, extend their
inroads as far as Koo?n, Kashan, Langaivod, Nusserabad ; and the
ruined villages about Koom were destroyed by them. These Raids,
which are called Chappow, are performed on horseback by parties of
twenty or thirty with incredible speed and activity. Their horses
(renowned over the East for swiftness and hardiness) support them
admirably in these expeditions, as like their riders they undergo
immense fatigue with a very small portion of food. They are, there-
fore, bought by the neighbouring nations at vast prices ; which, (with
the sale among other tribes of their captives, and of their camels,
sheep, &c.) supply the chief source of the Turcoman's wealth, and
accumulate immense sums in ready money. The captives lead a
wretched life: if young, they are sent into the interior to tend the
cattle; but when they grow old and unfit for service, they are
killed by their masters ; who comfort their consciences by placing
the skin of the deceased at the threshold of their door, in the be-
lief that he approaches Paradise in proportion as his skin gets pierced
with holes and worn out. On the other hand, their hospitality, the
theme of so many pens, is not exaggerated. A stranger, laden
with gold and precious stones, who claims protection at the tent
of a Turcoman is sure to find it. He remains there as Ions: as he
pleases, his person and his property are in perfect safety, and, when
he is desirous to depart, he is escorted by one of the tribe, which
alone is a sufficient protection to him through the whole of their
own district, and through every other kindred people. Caravans thus
travel from Asterabad to Astrachan without molestation, and in the
full security of the property which they convey. Turcomania is said
to be extremely populous, but wholly uncultivated. The people feel

p p

290

TABRIZ.

not the want of corn, and are content therefore to live upon the
flesh of horses, camels, and sheep, and on the milk of mares and
camels. They excavate a large hole in the ground, in which they
make a fire; and, placing the meat in the embers, cover it up until it
be baked. To the Northward of Turcomania are the Kamchauks,
who inhabit a desert, and are reported to be most ferocious and
warlike, and hitherto unconquered. All these inhabit the Eastern
borders of the Caspian Sea, called by the Persians Dereea-Kulzvm*
The Persians are at present at peace with the Turcomans, although
they are still equally liable to be surprised by their Chappow par-
ties. In the time even of Shah Abbas these depredations were
carried to an inconceivable extent. Aga Mahomed Khan, the
late King, made several attempts against them without any profit;
and particularly indeed against the Kamchauks, where he met with a
defeat. In former times the Turcomans used to make their attacks on
the coasts of Ghilan and Mazanderan in boats. Now they are not so
depredatory ; because the country is more inaccessible, and the people,
according to my informer, are more dextrous in their match-lock guns
and bows; so much, indeed, are they improved, that, in the true Persian
style, he added, "Twenty men of Mazanderan will beat one thousand
Turcomans*'

We recommenced our journey on the 1st of June ; and on that day
waited upon Mirza Bozurk to pay our respects to him on leaving
Tabriz, He told us that we were now departing at a most lucky hour,

* " The sea of Kulzum? is more appropriated by the generality of Eastern authors to
the Arabian Gulph, to which, indeed, it is said to be attached, from the place of the same
name on the shores ; yet it is applied to the Caspian in a Persian map copied in the
Oriental Collections, Vol. III. p. 76 : and Khojeh Abdulkurreem, while he states that
" the proper sea of Kulzum is in the Turkish empire," admits that " the people of
" Ashreff" affix the name to the Caspian, p. 94. London Edit. 1793 : and in a note to
Abulghazi Khan's History of the Tartars, the French Editor mentions it as the genera!
designation among the Persians, p. 645.

TABRIZ.

291

for that this had been the morning fixed some time ago by the astrolo-
gers as the most fortunate for the Prince to leave his capital, prepara-
tory to his usual summer campaign. He informed us, among other news,
(that had just reached him from Constantinople) that the Turks had
defeated the Russians, and had taken so many prisoners that they were
selling them in the bazars at Constantinople.

■

p p ( 2

CHAP. XVI.

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

persian travelling departure from tabriz beauty of

the country lake of shahee station of rahdars

khoi ; town; gardens; plain — agriculture — elauts —

convenience of tents courdistan robbers herds of

mares frontiers of persia and turkey bayazid

mount ararat reception in the tents of the elauts

— diadin; the Euphrates — ibrahim pacha; visit to his
enemy timur beg; reception at the castle of turpa

caleh depopulation of the country- omen- river

araxes conduct of the aga of alwar.

X HE mode of travelling in Persia is easy and commodious. In
winter they generally begin their journey at sun-rise. The baggage
proceeds, and then the master. He breakfasts either before he sets off,
or in in a more pleasant spot on the road, (regarding in each case the
advantage of a stream of running water as the motive of preference ;)
and thus he allows time for his luggage to reach the stage before him,
and his people to prepare every thing for his reception, spread his
carpets, and get the necessary articles for cooking his dinner. On his

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

arrival he eats his choshta, or intermediate meal, and then sleeps. At
sun-set he takes another repast (his noshtd) ; and his servants then pack
up every thing ready for his departure the next morning. He proceeds
by easy stages, generally from five to six leagues a-day, which, as he
always rides his own horses, is a good day's journey at the common rate
of travelling. If he has a Mehmandar with him, he is fed and lodged
and travels entirely at the public expence. When the Mehmandar arrives
at the village, he produces his Jinnan, (in which the kind and quantity
of the articles to be provided are specified ;) and demands a correspon-
dent supply from the inhabitants.

1st June, 1809- We left the Khoi gate of Tabriz at seven o'clock,
and in six hours and a half reached All Shah, a distance called by the
people of the country six fursungs, and which I reckoned at twenty-four
miles. From the top of our lodging at Alt Shah, I could see the mountain
near which Tabriz is situated, I can therefore place exactly the bearing
of our route, at N. 75 W. We kept to the Eastward of the plain in
consequence of the difficulties along the road through the centre, which
was then in many places overflowed

Near Tabriz on the left, are some gardens and houses, called Huck-
navar ; then the village of Mayan. To the Eastward of the city
itself, is a conspicuous hill called the Bahalil Tape, which abounds in
every kind of game. Having travelled three miles from Tabriz on a
bearing nearly N. we came to a bridge of nine large and three small
arches, thrown over the river Agi, which, flowing from E. to W. falls
at length into the lake of Shahee. The river rises near Ardebil ; and
is fordable by mules where we crossed it, though we prefered the
bridge, which happened indeed to be in better repair than those be-
tween Teheran and Tabriz. At about four miles from the city, we
passed a village called Alwar ; and three miles further another of the
same name, each surrounded with a cultivated territory, intersected
by a thousand dikes and kanauis. The greatest part of the plain is of
a soil strongly impregnated with salt ; and as in every other district of

294

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

the same quality, we witnessed the curious effects of the vapour, (called
Ser Aub) which overspread the plain. About four miles before we
reached Alt Shah, we crossed a bridge of four arches, over a pool
of standing salt water. The industry of agriculture was visible, and the
crops of barley and corn were luxuriant and promising.

The plain of Tabriz extends far to the W. and S. ; the mountains
which border it on those directions being just designed in very light
tints in the horizon. To the Northward and Eastward it is bounded
by hard-featured lands of an inferior elevation, indicating on their
surfaces the minerals below. There are several pretty villages situated
to the North, on the declivity of the mountain about three or four
miles from All Shah, and which, together with it and others to the W.
are in the Mahale or district of Ghuneh.

The lake of Shahee is about seven fursungs from AH Shah, and the
middle of the long mountain (which extends into the centre of the lake,
and which now appeared isolated on the horizon of the plain) bore
S. 50 W. of our station.

In my progress to Constantinople^ I traversed a country in its confor-
mation most picturesque, and in its productions most luxuriant. No
traveller in any season, or in any direction, could have passed these
scenes without admiration ; but I saw them in all the richness of
spring, contrasted with a winter in Persia ; and after the leafless and
barren region which I had passed, I enjoyed doubly the wild prodi-
gality of vegetation, which in the early part of the year is displayed
through Asia Minor. The impression therefore of delight which I ex-
perienced, was strongest at the first point of contrast ; and the first
verdure and foliage which I saw near Tabriz, appeared to me to con-
stitute the very perfection of landscape.

2d June. If a writer of romance would describe beautiful scenery,
he might select our departure from Ali Shah. We began our journey
by a most charming moonlight ; and the sky was delightfully serene.
Just as the sun was rising we reached an orchard, (full of every species

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

*95

of fruit, particularly almonds, and) skirting the town of Shebester ;
which, embosomed in trees of every hue, was situated on the declivity
of the mountains on our right.

Shebester is a large town, surrounded by several villages, and by more
wood and cultivation, than any spot I had yet seen in Persia. Hitherto
indeed the want of trees, either as a shade to the road, or as a relief to
the inequalities of the heights, had been constant and uniform. We
admired therefore doubly the beauties of our present course. Streams
of running water were meandering in every direction amid the numer-
ous willows, poplars, almonds, and other trees, which bordered our
road : and at intervals the artificial dikes were opened to admit water
into the beds of rice. The greater part of the country was covered
with verdure, for the new corn was already well advanced both in ma-
turity and plenty. Peasantry enlivened the fields by the labours of the
spade or the plough.

After quitting Shebester we came in full view of the delightful lake
of Shahee. It derives its name from the surrounding Mahale, which
may contain twenty villages. I was told that its waters are as salt
as the sea, and that the sand over which they flow, produces the salt
used at Tabriz. It extended itself N. W. and S. E. before us, and its
Western extremities were terminated by a stupendous chain of moun-
tains, whose snowy summits, softened by the haze, contrasted admirably
with the light azure of the lake. As we proceeded, the long moun-
tain (which I mentioned in the route of yesterday, extending itself and
forming a peninsula in the lake) appeared to have no connection what-
ever with the surrounding lands ; and, by a stranger to the real topo-
graphy, would have been pronounced an island. Its termination (to
the south as seen from our road) was in the form of a sugar-loaf.

Near Shebester we passed the village of MisholSh, and, lower down
in the plain, those of Arsaleh and Halee, on the left of the road.
Others indeed are seen at every turn, situated at small intervals on
either side alternately, all in the Mahale of GhunSh. Among them
are Besh-kefelont, on the left ; Khnmyelu prettily surrounded with

296

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

verdure, on the right ; Shinwar, on the left again ; Kuzec-dunar, on the
right, three fur swigs before we reached our stage at Tasovj ; and on
the left, about two miles from the borders of the lake, Alibanglou, the
first place in the Bolouk of Aeenzaub. In this line we stopt and fed
our cattle and ourselves ; while a refreshing breeze from the Westward
just curled up the waters of the lake, and waved the corn fields which
extended themselves on all sides of us.

Our bread and moss was shared by a stranger who was going to
Oroumi, a large town, distant thirty fursungs from Tabriz ; and situated,
by the pointing of his hand, S. 50 W. from us, on the left or West side
of the lake, which the road continues to skirt through its whole course.
On the East of the lake is Saouk Bolag, the site of the ancient city of
Sheherivan. The country, through which we passed in the day, was
interesting and picturesque ; in every turn of the view enriched by the
lake and its surrounding capes and mountains.

From all that I could learn in this region, (and I inquired of many
who had travelled repeatedly over this part of Aderbigian), there ap-
peared to exist no other lake than this of Shahee. And I have as regu-
larly made direct inquiries about the situation of the city of Van and its
lake, without obtaining any thing like a satisfactory answer. On the con-
trary, the very existence of such a place, and such a lake, was always
denied ; I mention this, when the position of Van has been clearly
ascertained, to shew how general was the ignorance of the people on
every subject which was not immediately within their own circum-
scribed district. Nor was I more successful in my inquiries on the
real extent of the lake before them : every one said that it was very
large, and that it reached further, than from its appearance we might
suppose.

At about five miles from Tasonj, there is a village on the left called
Rahdar Khone ; and then a station of Rahdars, or custom-house officers.
As we passed it, one of them, a man of a much more respectable ap-
pearance than any of the class whom we had seen on other occasions,
told us that a driver with seven loaded mules had gone forwards, and

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

297

refused to pay the duties, alleging that his beasts were carrying part
of our baggage ; and were therefore in the King's service, and as such
exempt from the impost. In fact, however, my Charwardar (or con-
ductor of the mules or caravan) had added to my charge this number,
above those that were necessary for m} r purposes ; and, having already
received a part of their hire from me, was now employing them still
more to his own profit, by conveying upon them, duty-free, in my
name, the goods of some Tabriz merchants. On discovering the fraud,
I resigned him into the hands of the officer, with full liberty to exact
his dues ; a licence, under which he begun immediately to cudgel the
shoulders of the defaulter. The duties here are high, being five reals
on each load.

Some miles before we reached Tasouj, the lake begins to make an
elliptical termination, and the road to turn off on a more Northern
angle. We were eight hours in travelling the whole distance from
AH Shah, which we reckoned at thirty-two miles, on a bearing of
N. 60 W. Tasouj, from the great extent of the ruined walls about it,
appears once to have been a large place, but it is now reduced, by
earthquakes, to the denomination of a village. There are remains of
domed bazars and mosques, spread in every part of the place.

June 3. The distance from Tasouj to Khoi is called eight fursungs ;
we were however nine hours on the road, and calculated the journey at
thirty-six miles. The general direction was N. 30 W. Our course for
the first ten miles, to the foot of the range, (which encloses the plain
and lake of Shahee) bore nearly West; when we suddenly turned
to the North through the mountains ; and, for ten miles more, wound
among them through some very narrow defiles, and by some sharp
ascents and descents, till we reached on the opposite side the plain of
Khoi. Towards the lake the mountains are mostly of an argillaceous
soil, but change into fine earth as they approach the plain of Khoi.
In this direction they are green to their very summits, and their inter-
vening vallies are covered with the finest pastures.

We had left Tasouj by moon-light : we could not therefore discover

Q Q

298

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

with any accuracy the nature of the country, which we traversed in
the first part of our route ; though we discerned indistinctly groves of
trees, and heard the falling cascade in the recesses of the vallies. The
first view of the plain of Khoi, from the summit of the pass in the
mountains, is sublime. The city and its more immediate territory are
seen on the N. but separated from the rest of the plain by a border
of green hills, which seem to divide the expanse into two parts. At
the distance of two fursungs from Khoi, we passed on the right the
village of Disajiz, surrounded by fields of wheat and barley. On the
left of the plain are some more villages ; and one carious mound of red
soil, crowned by a hillock of salt, besides several other white mounds,
which are described as entirely of the same substance. We passed
the small range of hills, and came all at once upon the more circum-
scribed plain of Khoi, which is opened by a seven-arched bridge,
bordered on each side by rocks, and forming with the fine stream
below a complete picture. The river is called the Otour, and flows
from W. to E. falling into the Arras or Araxes, about twelve fursungs
further to the Eastward.

The plain of Khoi (in breadth from N. to S. five miles, and in
length ten) was the richest tract that we had seen. It was covered
with corn, broken only here and there by the foliage of enclosed gar-
dens. Of these gardens we ventured to enter one, which was re-
nowned all over the country for its beauty and fruitfulness. It stands
on the left of the road about two miles from the walls of Khoi, and was
made by Hossein Khan, Governor of the city in the time of Aga
Mohamed Khan; but it has now become the property of the govern-
ment. It consists of a fine alley of chcnar trees, which leads up to a
pleasure-house, now falling into decay, built on the elevation of six
terraces, from each of which falls a beautiful cascade, conducted by
kanauts from the neighbouring mountains. On the right and left is a
wood of fruit trees of every sort and description, with a fine crop of
grass at their roots. From the pleasure-house is seen, through the
alleys of chenars, the whole territory of Khoi, one of the most lively

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

299

landscapes that we found in Persia. The thenar is really a delight-
ful tree ; its bole is of a fine white and smooth bark, and its foliage,
which grows in a tuft at the summit, is of a bright green. Those in
the garden had not attained their full growth. Their trunks are every
where carved with the invocation of " Ya AH ;" proceeding probably
from the ecstacies of those, who visit this little Persian paradise.

Khoi is surrounded with a wall, and with towers of a different con-
struction to any which we had remarked in other fortified towns of
Persia. They are triangular in front, with a species of connecting
work behind them. There are four gates, which are of stone, and very
superior to most of those that I had noticed elsewhere. Within the
walls are twenty mosques and six baths. There are said to be ten
thousand houses, and a population of fifty thousand persons, of which
the larger proportion are Armenians. The Mussulmans live in a parish
or MahalS of their own. The territory is so extremely fertile, that
Khoi, with the surrounding villages, pays annually to the public treasure
the sum of one hundred thousand tomauns. Khoi is much warmer,
from its local situation, than Tabriz. Roses here were in full flower,
whereas a little opening bud was reckoned a rarity at Tabriz; and
probably in twenty days from the date of our visit, the plain lost its
verdure, and assumed the beautiful gilding of a ripe corn-field.

Six fursungs South from Khoi is an equally large and populous town
called Salmas ; where, as I afterwards learnt at Arz-roum, are " sculp-
" tured rocks and many ruins." My informer added, that one of the sub-
jects represented two men, of whom one, looking over his left shoulder,
pointed with his hand to a spot which the people of the neighbourhood
affirm to contain a hidden treasure, though they admit that the deposit
has escaped all research.

4th of June, 1809- The Prince had ordered four men to attend us
into the Turkish territories ; and as they did not reach us at Khoi, we
should probably have awaited their arrival there, if I had not resisted
such an arrangement, declaring that it would be better to advance one

qq2

300

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

mile, than in our circumstances to remain idle for one single day. Ac
cordingly, notwithstanding the pressing invitation of Nejef Kooli
Khan, the Governor, to stay the day with him, we departed for
PMh, a village two fursimgs from Kiwi, which I call six miles, and in
a bearing of N. 60 W. The morning was one of the loveliest in Spring,
lio-htly covered with clouds, with a softness in the air which seemed to
soothe every varied work of nature into tacit enjoyment of the bounty
and munificence of their Almighty Creator. I shall ever recollect with
thankfulness the delightful sensations which I experienced in passing
the beautiful plain of Khoi ; where every innocent sense received its
gratification, arid ripened into thoughts teeming with love and gratitude
to their divine Maker.

Every thing was rich and beautiful : the mountains were green to
their very summits ; and their inequalites were here and there enriched
by beds of wild flowers of the most lively and luxuriant hues. Scarcely
two miles from Khoi is a very large collection of houses and gardens,
which is a Mahale or parish of the town, and is well inhabited. A
stream from the mountains runs through it; and on the skirts to the N.
are two pillars of brick, which are described either as the tomb or the
cenotaph of a famous poet and learned Mollah of Tabriz, called ShemsL
PSrSh is a pretty village, situated on the declivity of the hills, which
gradually form the bases of the adjoining mountains; on the summit of
one of these hills is an old square fort, now in ruins : and in its neigh-
hood are two other villages called PesS and Zaidi. There are walnut-
trees, willows, poplars, elms, and fruit-trees of every description in the
highest perfection, with a great profusion of grass.

On this as well as on the other side of Tabriz, the peasants convey
their loads on the backs of oxen, on which indeed they frequently ride
themselves. At Pkrbh I saw the first wheeled-carriage (excepting gun-
carriages) that I had noticed in Persia. It was exactly similar to the
Turkish Araba. Besides their plough, which I have already described,
the Persians have the large rake, which serves as a harrow, and is fast

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

301

ened to a pole and drawn like a plough by yoked oxen: they have
another implement of agriculture, which is certainly capable of much
improvement. It is a pole fixt transversely on another to which the oxen
are yoked ; on each of these is a small wooden cylinder about half a foot
long : and these insignificant things are dragged as a roller over the

ground.

June the 5th. We went from PSreh to ZauviSh in six hours and a
half, on a bearing of N. 50 W. which may be twenty-four miles.
Durino- the whole of the preceding evening it had rained, accompanied
by thunder and lightning. Our ride, therefore, was rendered muddy.
From Pereh we entered some mountains of easy access ; which, about
ten miles before we reached Zawciih, opened into a plain surrounded
like a basin by mountains, on all sides gradually inclining to the centre.
On entering the plain, high on the right on the declivity of the moun~
tain, is the village of Selawan; and on the left a small village called
KhorS ; and on the turn of the road towards it, are two stone lions
among some rude and ancient tomb-stones. The greater part of the
population of the plain is composed of Armenians. To the West are
very high mountains, the tops of which were covered with snow, and
their roots, when we passed by, were nearly concealed by the heavy
clouds that rested upon them.

The snow was melting, and frequently streams were pouring from
the mountains. Yet the difference of the temperature of the air here,
and that which we had experienced within a few days, was very sen-
sible ; and before sun-rise it was piercingly cold. The plain was culti-
vated in all parts. The whole of the soil, over which we passed, was of
the finest brown mould ; so that, excepting some summits of the moun-
tains, the country was one universal carpet of verdure.

We met a large party of the Elauts or wandering tribes, composed
mostly of women and children, who were travelling to a fresh encamp-
ment. One of the women, who had the care of two children, had dis-
mounted; and the extreme agility with which she got on her horse

230

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again, without any other aid than her own hands and feet, shewed how
much she was accustomed to this sort of life.

We sent forwards our Mehmandar to desire that tents might be
pitched for us, because we had been advised to avoid the village on ac-
count of the plague, which sometimes visits these parts. Accordingly
we found four tents pitched for us, two of horse-hair, (the real Kara
Khader of the Eels), and two white tents, rude enough indeed, but so
delightfully situated in the plain, surrounded by corn fields, that we
quite revelled in the exchange.

We had not long taken possession of our humble encampment, when
a storm of thunder, lightning and hail overwhelmed us, in a manner
which completely destroyed all the comfort of our interior arrangements.
Hail-stones fell in numbers which entirely filled every corner of our
tent, and so large, that measuring one I found it to be an inch in
diameter, and so strongly congealed that they lay on the ground undi-
minished in size, until the sun once more broke out and dissolved them.
The hills near us received a new covering of snow, shewing their sum-
mits as the storm rolled away, in sublime grandeur. The peasants told
us, that this weather was very common to them. Although this was
but an ungracious beginning to a pastoral life, yet I must own that to
me it still had so many delights compared with the confinement of houses,
that with all the present disadvantages I would willingly prefer it to a
residence in the towns of Persia. Among its enjoyments is that of its
freedom from vermin, from which (particularly fleas) we had hitherto
suffered so much ; not that the people are singularly dirty, but the crea-
tures are the usual productions of the place and season. A Persian
who was conversing with us in our tent, on seeing my servant beating
a coat with a cane to clean it of the vermin which it had collected
at the former stage, very gravely asked, " Pray what crime has that
" coat committed, that makes the Frangee beat it so?"

June the 6th. The quantity of rain that had fallen during the
course of the day had completely saturated the greatest part of our

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

SOS

clothes and baggage, and materially increased the weight of the lading

of our mules. Thanks to God, it did not rain in the night ; and we

slept soundly till about an hour before the break of day, when we

quitted our black tents for the village of Cara-aintfi. The distance,

on a bearing of N. 20 W. is called five fursungs ; but though we were

nearly six hours on the road, I shall not reckon it at more than eighteen

miles, because we were delayed in our progress by the mud, which the

rain and hail had created. We took a turn to the Eastward from our

encampment, and came to a village called Iekaftee, on the borders of

a mountain torrent swoln and rendered so rapid by the late storms,

that two or three of our mules had nearly been carried away by its

violence. On the right of the road (at the distance of five miles from

our last station) is a spring dammed up, except at an aperture in one

of its corners, through which a small quantity of water is permitted to

ooze out, called in Turkish, Ak-bolagh, or " white spring :" and three

miles further, and distant from the road two miles, on the left, is a

collection of a few wretched hovels called KurkendSh, surrounded by

cultivated fields. About this spot the road was formerly so infested with

the Curdistan robbers, that it was never passed without danger : but since

Prince A rb as Mtt?za has had the government of Aderbigian in his

hands, he has so completely expelled the freebooters from their haunts,

that no district is now so safe. We traversed a pass formed by the

gradual meeting of the roots of the mountains, and then entered an

oval plain, extending, on a rough calculation, in length eight miles

from N. to S. and three in breadth. The village of Cara-ainih, our

Menzil, is here immediately seen, and is easily marked by a square fort,

which, rising from the midst of its miserable huts, appears a palace in

comparison. This village is the chief of a MahalS of the same name,

composed of about twenty-one villages, the principal of which are

Hiderlou, Nabekandi, Gelish Acha, Sedei, Zaiveh, and Ak-dezeh. From

Cara-aineh there is a road to Van, a distance of fifty miles, on a

bearing of S. W.

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We had now reached the dregs of Persia. Beyond Khoi and FSrSk
both the habitations and the people bore an appearance of misery, in-
dicative of a neglected country. This deterioration is probably inse-
parable from the borders of two states, which are ill-defined as to ter-
ritory and actual property. None but the Ket Khoda had a decent
coat, and all the rest were in tatters and beggary.

The Thaubet of Cara-aineh had been appointed to his government
only the day before our arrival, an excuse which he alleged for his
inability to satisfy us in several of our inquiries. His appearance, in-
deed, bespoke the truth of his apology; for he was dressed from head
to foot in new clothes, new cap, new coat, new slippers ; doubtless to
impress his peasantry with a sense of his superiority. We had rain all
the day, and almost incessant thunder and lightning. The tract over
which we passed, though generally of admirable soil, was for the greater
part waste. We saw, however, immense flocks, some perhaps of one
thousand sheep, grazing in the fat pastures on the declivities and in the
recesses of the mountains ; and large herds also of mares with their
foals. These were the property of the Elauts: the mares belonging to
the King are kept in Mazanderan, which is said to afford the finest
pasture of his dominions. Their foals arc thence distributed to the
troops as they may be wanted. The Guardian or Controller of these
Royal herds is an officer of considerable consequence, and is selected
always from men of rank and importance in the state. He is called
Elkhce-chee or Master of the Mares, and resides at Asterabad, where he
holds his office, registering every foal as it falls. He has subordinate
agents, entrusted severally with the charge of twenty mares, and with
the choice of their pastures, besides the inferior grooms who tend the
animals daily. The foals are not backed until they have completed
their third year.

7th. The morning was darkened by clouds which covered the
whole sky; the thickest resting on the tops of the mountains, and
extending themselves in some parts nearly to the bases. We quitted

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305

our wretched habitation at Cara-ainSh, to pace a miserable road ; the
bottom of which, always wet and deep, was rendered still more
impracticable by a shower of rain that overtook us, soon after we had
quitted the village. Almost at the extremity of the plain is a swamp ;
on the surface of the waters of which were innumerable flocks of ducks
and other wild-fowl. We noticed two cranes stepping away before us
at a great pace, and hiding their legs from us by letting fall their
tails. The soil was rich almost beyond calculation, and afforded the
finest pastures. We crossed the village of Ak-dezeh, and then leaving
the plain, wound through the vallies which were formed by the Western
mountains. The whole country was watered by numerous torrents;
on the borders of one we spread as our breakfast, the scanty remains
of our yesterday's meal ; which, in such a spot however, would have
been a real treat to the lovers of romance. The scene indeed, alone,
consoled us for our bad fare at Cara-ainSh. A stupendous mass of
rock rose perpendicularly over our heads ; and at our feet foamed and
roared the torrent, while the whole view was enriched by the verdure
of the distant landscape, and enlivened by the chirping of innumerable
birds. About twelve miles from Cara-aineh are several hills ; the de-
clivities of which are strewed with large masses of black rock, evidently
from their weight and their calcined appearance, full of metal. The
whole seems to be volcanic matter.

After quitting these hills we came into the plain, at the extremity of
which is situated Agajilc, a miserable Armenian village, about the same
size as our former stage. We were six hours and a half in travelling
the distance, twenty-two miles, on a bearing of N. 20 W. In the
centre of the plain a caravan, from Oroumi, was grazing its mules : the
driver of it told us, that he had been eight days on the journey, at
the rate of four agatch a day, making a total of about one hundred
miles. Here the distances are measured by the agatch, which corres-
ponds exactly to the sahat or hour. The village consisted of huts,
surrounding an old square fort on a hill. Our lodging was a
covered building, in the roof of which were two small holes to admit

R R

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light ; and in the interior of which a square of twenty feet was parted off
by a wall three feet high, for the residence of the master, while the
remainder was reserved for his cattle. The costume of the people was
changing fast ; and the black sheep-skin cap of Persia was scarcely seen.

The day was overspread with clouds till near sun-set, when it cleared
away a little to the Northward, and shewed us the sublime and
venerable mountain of Ararat. It bore N. 10 E. of our station, and
presented a stupendous mass to our view. The Persians told me that
it was eight hours distance from us ; and added many a story of its
wonders. Such as — that no one, who attempted to ascend it, ever
returned ; and that one hundred men who had been sent from Arz-
roum by the Pacha, to effect the undertaking, all died. The Armenian
priest assured me, with a very grave face, that the ark was still there.
There is a smaller mountain on the same range, bearing N. 30 E. which
is called by the Turks, Cochuk Agri-dagh, as the larger Ararat is
called Agri-dagh. Ararat is the Macis of the Armenians. The
sources of the Euphrates are twelve hours from Agajik, in a direction
of N. 50 W. by the peasant's pointing. The Armenians told me
that they had a Zeeauret, or place of devotion, at the sources called
Wes Kionk.

8th. We left Agajik with five men, who, according to the custom,
accompanied us out of their frontier into the Turkish territory. At
about two miles and a half from Agajik is another Armenian village,
called KilsS, from the ruins of a church (EcclesiaJ, which forms a
conspicuous object among its mean huts, being well-built with a fine
white stone, with arched doors and windows. Even in its ruins, how-
ever, the present poor inhabitants still contrive to keep up a place of
worship within the interior.

About three miles and a half N. 30 W. from Agajik, are the
boundaries of the Persian and Turkish territories marked by a ruined
tower, situated in the centre of a valley.

As we were feeding our horses, the person whom we had sent to
Bay azid (to intimate our approach to the locum-tenens of Ibrahim

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

307

Pacha, who was himself on an excursion against the Courds) returned,
and told us that the Acting-governor would not receive us into the
city, nor give us a passage near it; alleging as a reason, that his
master the Pacha had left strict orders, that during his absence no
strangers, and particularly no Persians, should be admitted. This
unexpected news staggered us at first, but at length we determined to
send one of the Mirza's own men to exert the influence of his master's
station in our favour. We proceeded, following our messenger : the
road took a turn to N. 30 E. and shewed us once again in a much
larger exposure than before the stupendous Ararat. It is indeed a
sublime and almost terrific object. It rises from an immense variety
of lands ; and is covered with snow, and almost always surrounded
with clouds.

We stopt at a small Armenian village called Kerdek, (on the left of
the road, one fursung from Bayazid,) to await the return of our second
messenger. We did not tarry long, when he appeared, though only to
confirm the report of his predecessor. The Turks would not suffer him
even alone to enter the city ; for as soon as he approached, they fired
a musket or two, to convince him that their resistance would not be
confined to threats ; and when he endeavoured to come to a parley,
they answered him only with ill language and abuse. We determined
therefore immediately upon taking a circuit to avoid Bayazid, and
seeking Ibrahim Pacha himself, from whom we expected a hand-
some reception ; as the Persians represented him to me as a vassal of
their Prince Abbas Mirza, fearing Him rather than his own sovereign.
Our road to day averaged N. 10 W. a. distance of ten miles ; the same
bearing indeed may be extended to Bayazid, on a further distance of
four miles. Bayazid, as I learned in its neighbourhood, is situated
close at the foot of Mount Ararat : it is peopled principally by Ar-
menians. On a hill about it, is a castle, which by its defenders is said
to be strong; they are very jealous however of the curiosity of a
Persian.

RU2

308

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9th. Three men, whom we anxiously expected from Prince Abbas
Mirza to accompany us to Constantinople, joined us on the evening of
the 8th ; and so far therefore our delay at this miserable village was
convenient. We gave them just time to feed their horses ; and then,
about an hour before sun-set, resumed our march to take up our quar-
ters for the night on the bank of a little running stream ; the rich pas-
tures, through which the waters flowed, refreshed our cattle, but we our-
selves were obliged to pass the night in the open field with a heavy dew
falling, yet, thank God, with a fine clear sky. During the course of the
night a Turk arrived from Bayazid to say, that he was sent by the
Kiayah to be our Mehmandar to the presence of his master; adding,
indeed, that the Vice-Governor regretted the misunderstanding on which
he had acted, for he had been told that we were followed by a large
body of horsemen. On further questioning the Turk we found, that the
wife of Ibrahim Pacha (hearing that there was an Elchee, an Em-
bassador, without the town, and that admittance had been refused to
him) made loud remonstrances to the Kiayah on the impropriety of his
conduct, and interceded so far in our behalf that he sent us these ex-
cuses. Though we were ill satisfied with the conduct of this person,
we thought it better not to reject the attendance of the officer whom he
had deputed to escort us, as we were among a wild and unmanageable
people.

We travelled an hour and a half, in one of the clearest and most
beautiful mornings that the heavens ever produced ; aud passing on our
left the two villages of DizzSh and Kizzil Dizzeh, we came to an open-
ing of a small plain covered with the black tents and cattle of the
Elauts. Here also we had a view of Mount Ararat; the clouds no
longer rested on its summit, but circled round it below. We went to
the largest tent in the plain, and there enjoyed an opportunity of learn-
ing that the hospitality of these people is not exaggerated. As soon as
it was announced at the tent that strangers were coming, every thing
was in motion : some carried our horses to the best pastures, others

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

309

spread carpets for us, one was dispatched to the flock to bring a fat
lamb, the women immediately made preparation for cooking, and we
had not sat long before two large dishes of stewed lamb, with several
basins of yaourt, were placed before us. The senior of the tribe, an
old man (by his own account indeed more than eighty-five years of a^e)
dressed in his best clothes, came out to us, and welcomed us to his tent
with such kindness, yet with such respect, that his sincerity could not
be mistaken. He was still full of activity and fire, although he had lost
all his teeth, and his beard was as white as the snow on the venerable
mountain near his tent. The simplicity of his manners and the in-
teresting scenery around reminded me, in the strongest colours of the
life of the patriarchs : and more immediately of Him whose history is
inseparable from the mountains of Ararat. Nothing indeed could ac-
cord better with the spot than the figure of our ancient host. His
people were a part of the tribe of Jelalee, and their principal seat was
Erivan; but they ranged through the country:

And pastured on from verdant stage to stage,
Where fields and fountains fresh could best ens-ace.
Toil was not then : of nothing took they heed
But with wild beasts the sylvan war to wage,
And o'er vast plains their herds and flocks to feed ;
Blest sons of nature they ! true golden age indeed.

Castle of Indolence, xxxvii.

We quitted our hospitable friends, (who appeared to be almost
more grateful for our visit than we for their kindness), and passed along
the plain. Mount Ararat bore N. 40 E. and extended itself com-
pletely to our view. Its N. W. ascent is not so rapid as its S. E. and
I should conceive that in this quarter it might be possible to ascend it.
In six hours and a half, after leaving our last encampment, we reached
Diadin. It is a large village with a fort and towers ; under which, in a
deep channel of perpendicular rock, runs the eastern Euphrates, there a
shallow stream about twenty feet in breadth. It rises about four agatck

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ox* twelve miles from Dladin, on a bearing of S. 50 W. by the direction
of a mans hand; and in the country is called the Fiat ; the name
assumed at Arz-roum, by the Western stream.

At Diadin we were not permitted to go near their miserable castle.
The homes of the place are built of mud and stones, and the rooms are
calculated to lodge the animals as well as the family. A small com-
partment only is reserved for the master; and in general the rest of the
space is left for his cattle. We did not, indeed, enter their habitations,
for every door was shut against us ; and when, by great management,
we had secured shelter for ourselves, our people, and our cattle, we
found equal difficulty in procuring food. Abdulla Pacha, a rebel
C&urd, with whom Ibrahim Pacha was at open war, had in fact car-
ried away all the flocks, and destroyed all the crops of this village.
We could not therefore expect an easy supply of corn for our horses ;
but after much intreaty a little was produced, for which indeed we paid
an amazing price. A piece of barley bread was delivered to each man ;
and the masters, by a very marked favour, were supplied with a mess of
eggs and a basin of yaonrt.

The houses for the Conaks or reception of strangers, here as in all
other places in Turkey were regularly defined ; but when the Mirza and
I were entering that appropriated to ourselves, we were received at the
door by a woman, who, with her face totally uncovered, boldly bad
defiance to the Conak-chee, and (with the most threatening looks, and
with all the volubility of her sex,) swore that nobody should enter her
dwelling. However, by a little negotiation we pacified our hostess,
and were at length admitted into her stable, where we spread our car-
pets and composed ourselves to sleep. The women here barely cover
their faces ; and, as we afterwards learnt, are notorious for depravity :
they appear very healthy. The men are as wild as savages, and seem
to be under no law. Independently of their own immediate distresses,
one of the reasons for their inhospitality to Persians is very natural;
several Embassadors had been sent to Constanti?wple, and since that

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

311

time every traveller, who had two or three attendants, assumed the same
dignity. The discovery of the fraud has necessarily roused the caution
of the Turks.

10th. We were nine hours on the road to Youngali, called nine
agatch, and which I calculated at thirty-two miles on a bearing of N.
65 W. The Euphrates accompanied us all the way through a country
of grass, but of little cultivation. Four miles after leaving Diadin we
passed the village of Jugan, about a mile and a half on our left : then
four miles further, still on the left and on the other bank of the Euphrates,
Utch Klisse. Here a high and snow-covered mountain called KussS
Dagh appears in view ; and (extending to the S. and W.) the range of
Ala-Dagh. In the village is an Armenian Church, a very respectable
looking building, much resembling an European structure. It has two
wings wi th a shelving roof, and is covered by a small dome built of
stone, apparently not in much decay.

At the termination of that branch of the mountain near which
Utch KlissS stands, there is a stone bridge thrown over the Euphrates.
We continued by the bank of the river, which winds from E. to W.
creating verdure on each side as it flows. We passed through a
village now in ruins called Alakou ; and on the slope of the hill (three
miles on the left of the road) that of Comoulja ; another called Belasou,
is close on the banks of the river ; and, about eight miles further,
having passed the miserable huts at Cadi Kieu, we reached after a very
sultry ride, our Conak at Youngali. All these villages are in the MahalS
of Alashgerd.

When we had been about an hour on our road, I missed a small
carpet from my baggage, and sent back therefore my servant to
reclaim it from our host at Diadin. From the looks which he cast at
our goods, I had frequently suspected his honesty, but I might have
spared my suspicions and my trouble ; fori received nothing but oaths.
Near to Utch Klisse, we met the battering train of Ibhahim Pacha,
which consisted of two field pieces, returning from the siege of Turpa
CaUh, the castle of Timuk Beg, who had revolted from his authority.

312

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We learned that after a siege of five months, in which the Pacha had
fired his guns one hundred and fifty times at the town and castle, he
had succeeded in killing one fowl and one dog.

Ibrahim Pacha, who was at another village three miles from
Youngali, sent his Haznadar or treasurer to escort us to our lodging.
The misery here was even greater than that of the preceding day. No
corn for our horses, nor even grass without hard blows. The whole of
the country was in a state of absolute devastation from the incursions of
the Courds ; and our course presented nothing but difficulties, for
Ibrahim Pacha was at war with all the country round. He pro-
fessed indeed to respect the firman of Abbas Mirza, and when we
sent him that with which we had been furnished, he immediately carried
it to his head, saying that he was the Prince's servant in all things ;
and that there was nothing which he would not willingly do to serve
him. We never fared worse, however, than at this village. The
people that surrounded us bore the looks of savages, and then general
behaviour corresponded with their appearance.

To the South of Youngali, as I was told at the place, lies Van ; and
to the S. W. the large Mahale of Kensus.

11th. We left Youngali, dissatisfied with our host: the Persians
indeed were miserable with the scanty hospitality which they received
at his village. When we were left by the two officers, who escorted
us to their master's frontier, we were advised not to go near Turpa
Caleh, as w r e should undoubtedly be molested. Yet the situation, in
which this war of the rival chiefs had placed us, was so difficult, that
we incurred equal hazard either in passing the castle of Timur Beg,
without offering our respects, or in venturing near it after coming from
the domains of his enemy. We determined therefore to state our
story simply, and throw ourselves on his hospitality. We crossed a
most beautiful plain covered with villages, and watered by numerous
streams. We forded three considerable torrents, which poured from
the N. mountains, and, swoln by the melting snows, threw themselves
into the Euphrates, which was flowing at the Southern extremity of the

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

313

plain from E. to W. Three miles from Youngali we came to Cara-
Klissty a large village peopled by Courds and Armenians; and then
made a circuit to the N. to avoid a swampy road in the centre of the
plain. We passed through several villages, the inhabitants of which
seeing the numbers of our company mistook us for one of the fight-
ing parties, and crowded on the tops of their houses at our ap-
proach. Of these places, the principal were named Datte TapS, Kesick,
and Arnat.

Turpa Caleh is situated N. 60 W. from Youngali, on a distance of
about fifteen miles or four hours. It is a larger place than any that we
had seen since Khoi. The town is scattered on the slope of a conical
hill, on the top of which is a castle. This the Turks deem impregnable,
and with justice, if the failure of the late siege be a criterion, though
the fort seems in every part accessible to cannon. The high mountain
of Kusse Dagh overlooks the town and attracts continual clouds over
it. We proceeded warily ; and, about a mile before we reached the
place, halted and sent forwards a man to reconnoitre the appearance
and dispositions of the people, and to report on the expediency of our
advance. He returned with the intelligence that we had nothing to
fear ; and we directed our course therefore to the Conac or dwelling of
the Kiayah, the chief officer of Timur Beg. Here we dismounted,
and were introduced immediately into a dark room, where twenty
torpid Turks were indulging themselves in the quiet delights of smoking.
The Kiayah sat in the corner, but rose when the Mirza entered ; and,
having said the usual " Khosh gueldin" (you are welcome,) closed his
lips and left his guest to display the compliments and insinuative flat-
tery so natural to his nation. The loquaciousness and vivacity of the
Persian formed an inimitable contrast with the dull and heavy laconism
of the Turk.

When we had smoked and drunk coffee, a man came to inform us
that Timur Beg was ready to receive us. The Mirza and I immedi-
ately proceeded, leaving the rest of our party with the Kiayah. We
ascended to the castle by a steep and difficult path, and entered it by

s s

314

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a large iron door. We were introduced into a spacious room at the
summit. The Chief (attended by all his principal warriors gravely
seated around) occupied a window commanding an extensive view of
the country over which we had travelled, and more particularly the
district of his rival, the Pacha. When we also were seated, and the
usual compliments had passed, the Mirza begun a prepared speech un-
folding our condition, announcing that we threw ourselves at his mercy,
asking the rights of hospitality from him, and intermixing throughout
some very severe invective against his enemy the Faclia. The mode
succeeded : and Timur Beg instantly replied, that we had nothing to
fear; that under his protection we were safe; that our necessities should
be supplied, and that his officers should receive orders to treat us with
distinction and kindness at a neighbouring village; for he hoped, as the
only favour that he required of us, that we would not sojourn in his
castle for that night.

When these preliminaries were settled, I had time to observe that
there was much to admire in our host. He was about forty years of
age, with a singularly open and manly countenance, and with manners
the most graceful and dignified. He related his own history and his
differences with Ibrahim Pacha in language so simple, yet so expres-
sive, that we acquired a deep interest in his fate; particularly, when he
expatiated on the Pacha 3 's tyranny and inordinate rapaciousness, and on
the misery in which his exactions had involved all the peasantry of the
district. During the course however of his conversation with the Mirza,
1 remarked one of his observations which was very characteristic of a
semi-barbarous society. He inquired who I was? and being informed
that I was of the Sect of Isau (Jesus), or, in other words, a Christian,
'he continued (with a look of pity, having observed that I had refused
a pipe), " These fellows, I hear, have neither pipes nor tobacco in
m their country: haimn dar, they are beasts:" as if to say, assuming
-that we did not possess the knowledge or the means of their favourite
Enjoyment, " how far inferior to us must those be who cannot
"smdke."

TABRIZ TO ARZ-RGUM.

315

Our host kept strictly to his word : we were seat forwards four miles
further to the promised village of Molah Suleiman, escorted by two of
his officers ; and supplied with all that the place could afford, a sheep,
fowls, and rice for ourselves, and corn for our horses.

12th. We passed over a mountainous tract of country from Molah
Suleiman to Deli-baba, a distance which we travelled in ten hours, and
which I reckoned at thirty-five miles, on a bearing of N. 30 W. as well
as the intricacies of the turns would permit me to observe. Before we
entered the mountains, (when we had travelled about three miles, and
just above the little village of Zadtih,) I had the parting view of Mount
Ararat, which bore from us N. 80 E. We were told that the road was
much infested by the Courds, particularly at a pass in the mountains
called Gerdina, and we placed ourselves therefore in a posture of de-
fence. But we traversed the whole extent without seeing a human
being, till we reached Dakar, a village of Courds in the mountains
twenty miles from Molah Suleiman. We then proceeded winding in
a variety of directions, with a scorching sun over our heads, to the
entrance of a pass which, through two stupendous rocks, leads into the
plain of Deli-baba. This pass might be made an admirable military
position, and in its present state is a most picturesque object. A
stream from the mountains runs through it: on the left is a rock
three hundred feet perpendicular, and on the other side is another of
less height, but pierced with three holes, as if it were by the hand
of man.

On entering the plain we saw numbers of peasants with their arabahs
or carts. They told us they had fled from their village in the fear of
Abdulla Aga, who, from his station near Erivan, makes predatory
excursions all over the country. They added that Deli-baba was
totally depopulated ; however we did not believe them, and proceeded.
We found indeed a very bad reception, for the inhabitants mistook us
for enemies, collected together at our approach, refused us admittance,
and fired several muskets at us. At length the chief of the village
came out to meet us, and we agreed to establish ourselves at a distance,

« s2

316

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feed our cattle, and depart. The fear of Abdulla Aga created such
a distrust, that we were avoided by every one whom we met ; and
even when any permitted us to approach, all our assurances were in-
sufficient to inspire them with confidence. Although we offered great
prices for the necessaries of our supply, the people would hardly sell a
single article ; and the few pieces of bread and eggs which formed
our meal at Deli-baba were not procured without the greatest
difficulty.

Although the country is in a terrible state of disturbance, caravans
travel freely on the road. We met a large one which had been eight
days from Arz-roum. Our mule-driver happened to kill a serpent ; he
cut it immediately in two pieces, and threw the parts on different sides,
saying, " It is a lucky sign, our enemies will not overcome us."

The soil over which we passed was admirably rich, and the most
delightful spring reigned on the tops of the mountains, where we
culled nosegays of a thousand hues; yet the snow lay in several
places, and covered the fetlocks of our horses, while close to it rose
every flower.

13th. We quitted the village of Deli-baba early in the morning,
having passed a night full of anxiety and watchfulness in the open
fields; as we were told that we were not safe, and might probably be
attacked, though nothing, thank God, disturbed us. We proceeded
on a bearing of West to Amra Kieu, a village prettily situated at the
utmost extremity of a plain, and surrounded by some trees, (in our
later course a very scarce object) the willow and the plane. We crossed
a beautiful country cultivated in most parts, and considering the ex-
treme misery of the inhabitants themselves, looking very prosperous.
The spring was here in its first burst, and the corn was scarcely a
span high : the fields were no longer watered by dikes as in Persia,
for the nature of the seasons and of the country render unnecessary any
artificial means of irrigation. The hills to the Northward of the plain,
through which we passed, rise in a gentle acclivity, and to our view
displayed habitations and culture ; but as we met no person on the

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317

road, I could not learn the names of the villages in various parts. At
two hours, (seven miles,) from Deli-baba, and about a mile from the
road, is Batman Kieu, situated in the bosom of a valley delightfully
watered and cultivated. The houses of Amra Kieu, our resting place,
are built with the fir tree, and their roofs are formed by rafters of
wood, geometrically placed, which are afterwards covered with earth,
and constitute a strong dome. This is a better construction than any
that we had lately observed. Small two- wheeled carts, to which oxen
are yoked, are used here by the peasantry. The sheep are very fine,
with large tails and good wool.

14th. We went from Amra Kieu, due West towards Alwar, ten miles.
Three miles after quitting Amra Kieu, we came to the banks of the
Araxes ; which enters the plain from the mountains near Yaghan, a large
village situated about three miles from the road. The stream flows
here from N. 65 E. to S. 30 W. It takes its rise in the MahalS of
Khunus ; and where it issues from the ground is called Bin Gieul, or
a thousand springs. In its course it closely follows the mountains which
we had left at the extremity of the plain. Little irrigation is draivn
from it through the neighbouring territory. We crossed it over a very
well-built stone bridge of seven arches ; by the measurement of which
the river was about one hundred and sixty paces in breadth. Just
at this point a stream flows into it from the Westward, taking its
course close to Hassan CalSh. Immediately on passing the bridge
we came to a village called Kupri Kieu, and then continued on a
fine road, and through a delightful plain strewed with villages, distant
in general two or three miles from each other. The principal of these
are ArsunjSh, on the left, and Gumec and Miagen, on the right of the
road. All the plain was well cultivated ; and the peasants were here
sowing their corn. We passed by Hassan CaUh, a large town situated
around a hill ; on the summit is an old fortification, the curious walls of
which are chequered with the embrasures of former times. We crossed
the stream by the town, over a bridge of two arches. Close to the

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bridge is a bath built over a spring, the heat of which is almost
that of scalding water: yet when we looked in, several men were
up to their chins in it. The basin is about thirty feet in diameter,
and is enclosed by an old structure. Several other springs of the same,
temperature adjoin it.

We had procured a man from the Governor (CaziJ of Hassan
CaUh y to conduct us to Alwar, but the Aga of that place posi-
tively refused to admit us or to lodge us, and added in direct terms
that he did not care for Cazi, Pacha, or any one else, and that
we might go any where we chose; if at least we did not dis-
turb Him. After vollies of abuse on both sides, we were content
as before to take up our quarters in the open fields, under the
shade of a tree, that luckily was situated near the village, and
saved US from an ardent sun. Here we saw geese for the
first time.

Whilst seated under the tree, vowing vengeance on the Aga of
Alwar, (having dispatched a man to the Governor of Arz-roum to
state our case), we were visited by a respectable, yet sly-looking
Turk, who came quietly and settled himself on our carpet. He begun
by telling us that he was a yoljee (a traveller) like ourselves ; and in-
quired what made us so angry. We broke out into every species of
invective against the Aga of the village, who had obliged us to remain
like our horses and mules, under a tree, refusing us the most common
offices of hospitality; and added, that we had in consequence sent a
messenger to the Governor of Arz-roum to complain of the affront,
hoping at the same time that the inhospitable Aga would either lose his
head, or at least get a severe bastinado. We had some suspicion that
the personage to whom we were talking was the very Aga himself, and
were therefore less scrupulous in our abuse. This suspicion proved
true: our visitor begun by taking the Agas part, saying that the coun-
try was in a great state of alarm, and that the people feared to receive"
into their towns so many strangers, and particularly Persians, and

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

319

finished in his own person by intreating us not to write to the Gover-
nor of Arz-roum. He went away accordingly in some fright, and
allowed us to get provisions from his village, a permission which he had
not granted before.

We spent the night, however, in the open air, and in the fear of
rain : much, indeed, was falling on all sides of us with thunder and
lightning.

CHAP. XVIL

ARZROUM TO AMASIA.

arz-roum: description of the city; ancient state: popu-
lation: climate: visit to the governor; entertain-
ment; TURKISH DISHES DEPARTURE BATHS OF ILIJA : THE

DELHIS THE EUPHRATES BUILDINGS AT MAMAKHATOUN

TRADITION OF THEIR ERECTION CHIFLIK : CULTIVATION

TARTARS ON THE ROAD FROM CONSTANTINOPLE CARAJA :

DINNER PERSIAN FROM PARIS — STORM GRANDEUR OF THE

APPROACH TO CARA-HISSAR DELAY IN THE TOWN THE

RIVER KELKI IRMAC, THE ANCIENT LYCUS KULEY-HISSAR

DIFFERENCE OF PROPERTY IN TURKEY AND IN PERSIA EXCA-
VATED ROCK HISTORY OF A BOSNIAN STRANGER COUNTRY

ROUND NIKSAR, THE ANCIENT NEOCjESAREA ENTRANCE INTO

TOCAT : DESCRIPTION; TRADE TURKHAL STATION OF GUARDS

APPROACHES TO AMASIA.

1809, June 15th. We arrived at Arz-roum, after riding fifteen miles
on a bearing of W. over a chalky road. The city presents itself in a
very picturesque manner ; its old minarets and decayed turrets, rising
abruptly to the view. Our baggage was carried to the Custom-house,
notwithstanding all our remonstrances and claims of privilege. The

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

321

caution of the Turks, though in this instance unnecessary, was not un-
justifiable, tor a former Persian Embassador had concealed merchants
in his suite, who, under his name, passed large quantities of fine
goods.

Arz-roum is built on a rising ground : on the highest part is the
castle, surrounded by a double wall of stone, which is chequered at the
top by embrasures, and strengthened here and there by projections in
the fashion of bastions, with openings fit for the reception of cannon.
It has four gates, which are covered with plates of iron. The whole is
well-built, and to me does not appear the work of Mussulmans. A
ditch runs by it to the S. W. ; near it is a tannery ; and further on is a
row of blacksmiths' forges, which seemed in good employ. In this
direction (N. EL of the town) is the Custom-house, a spacious building.
The Pachas residence has a large gate opening into a court-yard.
The houses are in general built of stone, with rafters of wood, and
terraced. Grass grows on their tops, and sheep and calves feed there ;
so that, when seen from an eminence, the roofs of the houses can hardly
be distinguished from the plain at their foundation. I walked through
most of the bazars; few are domed, the rest are terraced, like the
dwellings, but affording a common road for foot-passengers, who
ascend by a public flight of steps. Wherever a street intervenes, a
bridge is thrown over, and the line continues uninterrupted. The
shops in the bazars are well stocked, and the place exhibits an appear-
ance of much industry. The streets are mostly paved ; but, as in
Turkey, in that manner which is more calculated to break the passen-
ger's neck than to ease his feet. There are sixteen baths, and one
hundred mosques ; several of the latter are creditable buildings, the
domes of which are covered with lead, and ornamented with gilt balls
and crescents.

This is the present state of Arz-roum ; its remains prove that it must
have been still more considerable. Every thing attests the antiquity
of the place; the inhabitants indeed date the foundation from the

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time of Noah, and very zealously swear, that some of their present
structures were contemporary with the Patriarch : with less hazard of
truth, or rather with much appearance of probability, they aver that
others were the work of the Giaours, or Infidels. One in particular is
attributed to the latter origin ; it consists of an arched gateway, curi-
ously worked all in strong stone, situated N. W. in the castle, and
close to a decayed minaret of ancient structure. Yet many of the
older fabrics appear by the true Moresque arch, to be certainly of
Saracenic origin ; and many of the remains of mosques resemble those
buildings in Persia, with curious bricks, and lacquered tiles, which
were raised in the first ages of Mahomedanism. In all those at
Arz-roum, I observed a round tower, with a very shelving roof, covered
all over with bricks. There are still erect several minarets, obviously
works of the early Mussulmans. Near the Eastern gate of the castle
are two of brick and tile, and a gate (with a Saracenic arch and a
Ciific inscription) and many strong stone buildings around, the remains
of the fine portico of a mosque. To the East of the town is an old
tower of brick, the highest building in Arz-roum 9 which is used as a
look-out-house, and serves as the tower of the Janizaries at Constanti-
nople, or that of Galata. There is a clock at the summit, which strikes
the hours with sufficient regularity.

In Arz-roum there are from four to five thousand families of the
Armenian, and about one hundred of the Greek, persuasion : the
former have two churches, the latter one. There are perhaps one
thousand Persians who live in a Caravanserai, and manage by caravans
the trade of their own country. TreUsond is the port on the Black
Sea, to which the commerce of Constantinople is conveyed. The
Turkish inhabitants of Arz-rottm are fifty thousand families. This
amount of the population I give from the authority of a well-informed
Armenian ; but as all such details in a country so ill-regulated are ex-
ceedingly suspicious, I have already taken the liberty to deduct more
than one-third from the number of Turkish families in the original esti-

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

323

mate. But the reduced statement still leaves in Arz-roum, at the rate of
five persons in a family, a total of two hundred and fifty thousand per-
sons, besides Armenians.

The climate of Arz-roum is very changeable, and must in winter be
piercingly cold. It rained throughout the whole of the 19th, but the
clouds dispersed on the morrow, and discovered the adjacent hills over-
spread with snow. The high lands which arise from the plain around,
attract constant thunder-storms ; the elevation, indeed, of the whole
region from the base of the sea is itself very considerable, and is suffi-
cient to account for the cold.

On the 17th we visited the Governor. He treated us with the usual
civilities of the occasion in Turkey, pipes, coffees, sweatmeats and
sherbet, for which we paid dearly by the numerous backshishes or vails
that are given in such circumstances. Em in Aga, who then filled the
station and was Musselim of the town, was also Gumruckchee or Col-
lector of the Customs, an office which in Persia is confined to very infe-
rior persons, and which therefore drew upon the Commandant of Arz-
roum, who unluckily bore it, the laughter and contempt of the Persians.
Yet when he invited us all to dinner, they were not the less anxious
to make their best appearance before him. Throughout the day, the
Persian Envoy was occupied with the arrangement of his clothes ; he
consulted every one of his servants on the suit which might become
him best, and at length fixed on a fine gold-brocade coat.

On the 20th we went accordingly to the entertainment. After
smoking and drinking coffee, the Aga called for dinner. Water for
the preliminary ablution was first brought, when I observed that the
Turks washed both their hands, and the Persians the right only. The
servants who brought the basin and ewer were attended by two others :
one who spread a towel on the knees, and another who was ready to
take it away, and replace it by a second for the hands. After this an
octagonal stool two feet and a half high was placed in a corner of the
sopha, on which was put a large round pewter tray carved all over in

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various fashions. On this were placed piles of bread all around, onions,
endive, and basins of yaourt, milk, and plates of cheese, with two
wooden spoons at intervals for the guests. When all was ready our
host said, " booyouroun" or " you are served," and we approached the
table. When seated each guest was attended by a page, who threw a large
napkin with gold-embroidered borders over each shoulder, and arranged
another on our knees ; an apparatus not unlike that of the preliminary
service of shaving. A small cloth was placed in the centre of
the tray, on which stood the dish. First, in a glass vase, came
a species of sweet soup which was not unpalatable; then a lamb roasted,
stuffed with rice and almonds; then stewed pears, then a stew of
mutton, then sweet jelly ; in short, there was a succession of at least
one hundred dishes, consisting generally of an intermediate sweet ar-
ticle between the meats, besides pastry to each. The master of the
entertainment said, " Booyouroun," when it was brought in, and
" Calder" or " take away," when we had eat two or three mouthfuls,
and scarce any other words but these two were heard during the whole
feast. Servants attended behind each guest, with a vase of lemonade
or sherbet. The dishes were not, in general, badly cooked, although
much coarser than those of Persia. The whole was closed by an im-
mense pillau. The principal dishes were the yaknS, which resembles
our Irish stew ; the dohnah, meat balls enclosed in vine leaves ; the
kabob, which is roast meat; the chorbah, or soup; the baklavah, a cake
of honey, paste, and other sweet ingredients; the lokmah, a light paste
puff; and the pillau, which is nothing but rice intermixed now and then
with plums, almonds, and always well peppered and spiced. When
all was over we washed our hands with soap and hot water, smoked,
drank coffee, and went away, and were dunned as usual for backshishes
on departing.

A strange character joined us at Arz-roum ; he was a native of Bosnia,
and took the opportunity of our escort to reach Constantinople. He
seemed to fear the wild inhabitants of the country through which we

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

325

had to pass, and wore accordingly a coat of mail under his clothes, and
a burnished helmet on his head, and was armed with two heavy rifle
guns, a pair of pistols, a long kunjur, and a sword, besides a variety
of powder flasks, &c. which, altogether, made him weigh thirty

stone.

On the 21st we left Arz-roum, and proceeded across the plain to
Ilija, a distance of five miles only, on a bearing of N. 80 West. The
plain is covered with villages : I counted thirty on one part, and the
cultivation is proportioned to the population. The season was advanc-
ing: in some places the corn was a foot from the ground, and there was
besides much fine pasture.

Close to the village we crossed a bridge over a nice stream, there
called the Kara Sou, which flows in this quarter from E. to W. and
according to the information which I procured on this spot, finally flows
into the Euphrates. On comparing, however, my authorities and
my observations, I suspect that it is itself larger than its confluent
stream, and deserves therefore to be considered as the primary
river. Its sources are in the mountains at Suzdan, about nine miles
from Arz-roum; and it meets another river at Serchembeh. The sources
of the Tigris are said to be at a village called Nehel, near Gever,
a place tenfursungs from Oroumi.

At Iljja are warm springs, two of which are enclosed within walls,
for the separate use of men and women. Large parties had collected
from Arz-roum to bathe here, and had pitched their tents among the
rocks to pass the night. During the night an alarm was given in the
village, that a number of Dtthis (who have been called the " Enfans per-
" dm" of the Turkish army,) had taken up their quarters among us, and
that every one must in consequence look to his own property. Perhaps
there were not two hundred of these desperadoes, yet they had given more
trouble to the Government of Arz-roum than an army of ten thousand
men could excite in any European country. They commit with impu-
nity every act of cruelty and extortion ; no one dares to reprimand or
to punish them ; and a few days before our rencounter with them, they

526

AUZ-ROUM TO AMASIA,

chose to be dissatisfied with the conduct of the Governor of Arz-roum f
and informed him that they intended to desert. To pacify them, there-
fore, he was obliged to send them loads of victuals. We passed the
night> however, without disturbance, and fared well indeed, by the
kindness of the Armenians of the village. From this place Southward
to Bin Gieul* the sources of the Araxes is five sahat (hours) Turkish.
The villages nearest our road were Gez, Belour, Arouni.

22d. Our route to Purtun bore W. on a distance of twenty miles.
From Ilija to the right and left, the country was still as on the preced-
ing day, studded with villages, and still richly cultivated. But it is
almost destitute of timber; a few bushes and small trees only are
sprinkled here and there over the hills ; and the great number of Ara-
bahs which we met loaded with wood had been all brought from a dis-
tance. About six miles on the right is the village of Alaga, and on
the left Arranli. Having proceeded five miles from our last stage we
stopped at Jennis, a very pretty spot, where the Armenians brought us a
breakfast of eggs, fritters, yaourt (curdled milk), and kymack (clouted
cream). On leaving Jennis, the village Nardiran lies at the declivity of
the hill. We quitted here the road to the right, which would have car-
ried us to Ak CalSh, the regular Menzil KhonSh, and took a bye-path,
because a pass in the mountains along the direct line was possessed by
a party of Courdistan freebooters. We reached Purtun. about four miles S.
from AkCaleh, and sent thither for the horses (fifteen in number,) which
were necessary to convey us forwards. Our resting place was a small
village in the bosom of the mountains, near a pretty stream which fell
in a cascade (almost under the roots of three picturesque trees in the
middle of the water), and turned a mill below. At about twelve o'clock
the clouds arose from the S. E. and brought thunder, hail, and rain; a
circumstance which I had remarked almost every day at the same hour

* See before p. 317. The same name seems to be applied to the sources of the Euphrates
and of the Araxes; which both rise on opposite directions from the same mountains.

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

327

since our arrival at Arz-roum. The weather then cleared up towards
the close of the evening, and a fine morning with an almost cloudless
sky opened the following day.

On the 23d, we left Purtiin ; and retraced the route of the pre-
ceding day for two miles and a half, when we took a general Westerly
direction for twenty-four miles. Our road was carried through a long
chain of mountains, in a line of easy access, though the surface was
rendered difficult by the mud which the rains had made. The whole
soil was an admirably rich earth, producing the greatest luxuriance of
grass, wild herbs, and flowers. Here and there the country begun to
be wooded ; and to be intersected by a great profusion of streams ;
and in one particular view (about two miles from our stage) displayed
the most romantic scenery with fine wild precipices washed by the
waters below, and shaded by shrubs and pine trees. The neighbouring
district however, in consequence of the depredations of the Delhis, and
the recent incursions of the Courds, was entirely unpeopled ; and
we learnt that the village of Mama Khatoun, at which we intended
to take up our quarters for the night, was in the same manner
deserted.

From the eminence above we enjoyed a beautiful prospect ; a river,
swoln by the rains and melted snows, poured from the mountains on
the S. E. and meandered at the foot of two stupendous rocks; and
the large buildings from which the place derived its name, were
below us. They are close to the village, and consist of a caravanserai,
a mosque, a bath, and a tomb, all constructed with a fine white free
stone, and finished in a manner worthy of the best ages. The caravan-
serai, in the usual shape of such buildings, is a hollow square, with a
gate to the East. Round the court are built small rooms, all arched
in the most solid and magnificent style. There are also two vaulted
chambers, each fifty yards long by forty broad, for the accommodation
of the cattle of travellers. In the middle of the square is an arched
chamber, erected probably as a cool retreat in summer. Though
many parts of the building are falling into ruin, the caravanserai may

328

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

be considered generally in very good preservation. The mosque is
situated to the right. It is entered by a small court yard, from which
a vaulted Peris tyle leads under the dome, into the principal chamber,
where is a stone pulpit. Though the dome is covered with weeds,
and though of the single minaret the upper part has fallen, the main
structure is still entire; and its fine materials, and its admirable
masonry, are very strikingly and advantageously opposed to the more
modern works of the country. Close to the caravanserai is the bath,
and on the other side the remains of a building ; the use of which I
could not ascertain. Nearly facing the caravanserai, is a kind of
small round temple, probably a tomb, enclosed by a circular wall,
which is entered by a gate way of Saracenic architecture. On the
exterior of the arch is an inscription in Cujic. The small building
inside is covered by a shelving roof, of the same construction as
many of the buildings at Arz-roam. The interior is arched, and
carved in a variety of ornaments, and under it is a subterraneous
chamber. The court is full of fragments, which may perhaps suggest
the supposition, that the whole was originally covered. Around are
many tomb-stones, inscribed with Cujic characters.

The popular story of the erection of those different buildings is as

follows : a wealthy Turk fell in love with an Armenian woman of this

village, but as she doubted the extent of his affections, she required as

a proof before she yielded her consent to marry him, that he should

build a caravanserai, mosque, &c. at the place of her birth. The Turk

immediately accepted the conditions ; and, proving that his love was

equal to his wealth, raised these structures, and called them by her

name, Mama Khatoun. The people add, that a treasure is concealed

in a part of the caravanserai ; which, according to an inscription, is

destined for the reconstruction of the whole, after the decay of the

present buildings. In one of the corners of the caravanserai we luckily

found a stray calf, of which we took possession, and of which the

Persians, in disregard of their scruples and distaste of ox-flesh, eat with

great appetite.

■

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

329

At noon we had the usual thunder storm. The surface of the
mountain is hard, and apparently contains much mineral matter. A
very elevated chain covered with snow extends before the village; the
highest part bearing W. and taking a N. direction. The Kara Sou is
no longer known by that name at Mania Khatoun, though by the
description of the country, we recognized it under that of Frat. The
water at this place has no distinct designation, but is called simply,
the river of Mama Khatoun.

On the 24th we proceeded to Kara Colagh, a distance called twelve
hours, which we performed in ten, and which in road measure may
be reckoned at thirty-two miles. We travelled for eight hours on a
bearing of W. and for the remainder of the stage turned to the N.
When we had advanced about six miles and a half, we came to the
river, which in its earlier progress we had passed as the Kara Sou,
but which here, as we suspected at Mama Khatoun, was known as the
Frat, and was said to flow finally near Maaden Kebban, into that
which rises at Diadin. We crossed it over a very good bridge of
eight arches, constructed altogether of the same materials, and in the
same style as the buildings at Mama Khatoun. At the distance scarcely
of a stone's throw is the confluence of the Frat, and that river which
rlows near Mama Khatoun ; their united waters form a considerable
stream, following the direction N. to S. 40 W. Near the bridge is the
village of Manastour. We traced upwards to the N. for two hours,
the river which I conceive to be the original parent of the Euphr-ates,
enjoying at every turn new and beautiful pictures of cultivation, and
woodland.

At the distance of about twenty miles we came to a large but com-
pletely deserted village, called Moss. Its inhabitants had fled the
day before to their mountains, from the depredation of the Courds.
Near it are very ancient tombs, some placed evidently over the bodies
of Christians, for among the ornaments on some of the stones is carved
the cross. One has an Armenian inscription. Here and there are
collections of very large stones, rudely piled one over the other. On

u u

330

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the other side of the stream is Pekesidge, a town with a castle on a
conical hill. This is on the high road leading from A k CaUh to Con-
stantinople, through Shoghoun DerSh, the pass occupied by the Courds.
After this is the village of Ak Doghan, and then that of Kismisore, but
both deserted. The cultivation is however very plentiful. In our
line to the W. we crossed a branch of the river, where the water was
up to the horses" bellies.

Kara Colagh is a large village, and the Menzil Khonih is here. The
surrounding mountains still bear an appearance of mineral. The clouds
gathered at the usual hour, but in a much smaller quantity than on
the preceding days. There was round the road a great profusion of
wild herbs, and amongst others asparagus.

25th. On the next morning we had a great dispute at the Menzil
Khonth. The master peremptorily required that we should pay for the
horses with which he furnished us. In vain did the Mirza persist that
he was an Elchee, an Embassador ; our host swore that he cared neither
for the Shah of Persia, nor for his own Sultan, and that he must have
our money before we should take his beasts. We agreed at last to give
twenty-five piastres for the hire of twenty horses.

Our road first took a N. direction among uncultivated mountains,
where I am told that the snow is frequently so deep in winter as to im-
pede the passage of travellers. It then varied W. and N. and N. and
W. frequently; but on a general bearing, I think that we averaged
N. 60 W. to Cliiflik, a distance called twelve hours, and which we per-
formed exactly in that time, on a reckoning of forty miles. In winding
through the mountains, we came to parts beautifully wooded with fir,
pines, and walnut-trees; and forming, particularly on a long descent,
the most picturesque forest scenery that can be imagined. At the sum-
mit of the mountains we had a continual rain for two hours, accompa-
nied with thunder. When we reached the close of the descent, we
discovered on our left hand the village of Sadac, situated about two
miles from the road on the declivity of the hills, with a surrounding
territory admirably fertile in corn, and well watered. From this place

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

331

to Chifiik is fifteen miles : the road leading through one of the most
beautiful and happy looking vallies that I ever saw. A stream, swoln
when we saw it by the rains, runs through it, and on each side spreads a
more abundant vegetation.

On quitting the valley we came on the plain in which Chifiik lies, so
well cultivated that it quite transported me into some of the best parts
of England. The peasants were ploughing the ground, while immense
flocks of sheep, goats, and oxen were spread over the whole country.
The fields were parted off by hedges and ditches; the road was well
denned ; and pretty villages rose here and there, intermixed with the
most luxuriant verdure. Spring was here in its bloom, and the whole
plain was a little Eden.

At about six hours from Kara Colagh, the road leads N. to the dis-
trict of Bybourg or Baibort, whilst our road led us W.

The village of Chifiick is interspersed with poplars and willows; the
out-houses for cattle were built of rafters laid horizontally, and covered
with a roof of earth. A Musselim resides here under the government
of Arz-roum.

26th. From Chifiik we went to Caraja, distant twenty miles (six
hours) on a bearing of W. We continued through the plain, which we
had entered on the preceding day ; and found it to its close as beauti-
ful as in its commencement. The stream which we had admired in the
valley of Sadac, issues into the plain and follows the road. We crossed
it over a wooden bridge. It supplies the inhabitants of the neighbour-
hood plentifully with fish, of which indeed we had a specimen in some
excellent trout, served up to us for breakfast.

We passed the village of Ger, and on the Eastward of the plain we
saw the village of Kizziljay. The whole country around was enlivened
by people employed in the works of agriculture. On entering the hills
we found their declivities on all sides beautifully wooded with firs, pine,
oak bushes, and a variety of thorns, with every shrub common to a
Northern climate. All the mountains which we had passed were of
easy access, and of no difficult ascent or descent. About twelve miles

u u 2

332

AIlZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

from Chiflik there is in ruins, a small circular building of stone, which
is probably a Turkish tomb.

We rested for the night at Caraja, though the proper Menzil Khoneh
is three hours distance, at a place called Sheyran, which gives name to
a district, or MahalS, containing this and between thirty and forty
other villages. Our horses were collected from the individual villagers ;
for the regular establishments were broken up about a month before
our arrival, by the disturbances in the country. From Caraja to
Gumuck Khoneh (a large town) is twelve hours, and thence to Trebisond
ten hours, on a general bearing throughout the whole distance of N.
Arsinghan is a considerable town, twenty-four hours S. from Caraja.
The corn fields in all this region are fenced off with rails, made of the
trunks of pine trees ; and here and there the boundaries of each man's
territory are marked by large stones ; a greater evidence of property,
and consequently of prosperity, than we had seen any where. On our
road to-day we saw a great number of juniper bushes with very fine
berries upon them.

In our passage through the woods we met three Tatars going in
great haste to Arz-roum, bearing to Em in Aga the news of his having
been created a Pacha. They told us that they had then been seven
days from Constantinople. Their errand is called carrying the Mudjdeh,
which is merely a verbal notification of the appointment, and which
very frequently proves false ; for the Tatar who is the bearer of it
generally gets it from the Capi Kiayah or Hommes d Affaires of the
great man in the province, and then takes the chance of the news
proving false afterwards. As soon as the Tatar arrives, he is carried
immediately into the presence of the person whose new dignity he
announces, and simply informs him of his promotion. If the news
which he brings prove correct, he receives perhaps one thousand
piastres, and the succeeding Tatars (for there are frequently twenty
who set off on similar expeditions) get sums in proportion to their
early or tardy arrival. The person indeed who on these occasions
secures the highest prize, is generally he who brings the pelisse of

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

333

office, which is the common mode of investiture in Turkey. On
the present occasion we were told by the Tatars that the pelisse was
actually on the road.

The Aga or Governor of Caraja was a Turk of a very fierce appear-
ance, but of a behaviour more agreeable than his looks. He accom-
modated us with the upper part of his own house, an open room
looking over a beautiful plain, and in the evening treated us with a
dinner. The greatest and best ingredient of the entertainment was a
large lamb roasted whole; round this were seated twelve persons,
mostly the farmers of the place, among whom however I could dis-
tinguish the Imaum, or parish priest, and the Hodja or schoolmaster.
All these gentlemen arrived with very good appetites to the feast;
for no sooner were they seated and the lamb placed before them, than
every one had his right hand in the dish at once, tearing off as large
pieces from the animal, as his strength and dexterity would admit.
This species of attack did not finish, until there remained nothing but
the bare bones of the lamb ; when every man very deliberately retired
to smoke his pipe in a corner of the sofa, and to drink a cup of coffee,
that was then handed round to each of the guests. Although such a
meal may be repugnant to the delicacy of those, who have been ac-
customed to a civilized mode of eating, yet there was a species of wild
and generous hospitality in the manners of these people, that I could
not help admiring ; and a few ingredients of which would add ex-
tremely to the delights of a modern table.

27th. We proceeded from Caraja, and halted at the distance of
twenty miles, on a bearing of N. 60 W. Our station was on the
banks of a stream in a beautiful valley, and we reached it through a
country, which (almost above that of the preceding march) was finely
wooded, and in the intervals among the mountains richly cultivated.
Among the forests the pines were of an uncommon size. Whilst we
were eating our dinner under a tree, a heavy storm of thunder and
lightning and rain, from the Westward, came over us. In this situa-
tion we were joined by a Persian who was coming post from Constan-

334

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

tinople. He was of the suite of Asker Khan, the Persian Embassador
at Paris, and unburthened himself of a volume of news to us. lie
soon convinced me that he had gained some knowledge in France bv
saying, " Les dames de Paris sont bien jolies" The storm continued
with little intermission till near midnight. Some sought shelter among
the rocks; others covered themselves with carpets, horse cloths, or
any thing which they could seize for the purpose, whilst others, and I
among the rest, sought refuge in a neighbouring water-mill, half in
ruins, where we made a large fire and defended ourselves as well as we
could from the pelting of the storm. I passed the night in the trough
of the mill.

28th. We again continued our route on a general bearing of W. to
Carahissar, a distance called eight hours, but which we performed
even in ten hours with difficulty, from the extreme debility of our
cattle. The road measurement may be thirty miles. The whole
country, through which we passed, presented the luxuries of a garden,
with the grandeur of a forest. Flowers of all hues embellished the
slopes of the rich pasturage, and embalmed the air with their aromatic
odours. I never saw spring so luxuriant, so exuberant, as it was in
these regions. At the bottom of every valley invariably runs a stream,
the progress of which is marked by the trees and by the fertility which
borders it, and which accompanies it in all its windings. The soil is
of a fine red earth ; and when occasionally turned up by the plough,
breaks the monotony of the universal verdure that now covers the
country, and contrasts admirably with the splendid brilliancy of its
tints. The corn on t]ie summit of the mountain was about a foot
high, but in the valley was much more advanced. The great cultiva-
tion consists in barley, besides many fields of rye, the latter indeed in
many places grows wild, and indiscriminately with other plants.
Wheat does not appear to be one of the necessaries of the inhabitants,
for almost all the bread which we ate was made of barley. Great
numbers of pear-trees border the road, with pines of a form most
picturesque, and presented often in the most striking views. The

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

335

pencils of an hundred artists would not accomplish in as many years
the task of delineating all the landscapes which this country affords.
The inhabitants are as well adapted for the painter as their country,
and would add a new interest to the charms of the picture.

On reaching the eminence of Carahmar a splendid panorama opens.
The various masses that erect themselves in an infinity of curious forms
suggest forcibly the wild convulsion of nature which had thrown them
in their present disorder. To the North is a large mass of mountain
of a rude outline, and a tint which indicates the mineral below : this
joins a stupendous chain of rock which, taking a turn to the Westward,
is terminated by the great, isolated height of Carahhsar. On the ex-
treme summit of this is the castle, a small fort rendered tenable by its
position. There are houses also on the top to which a ziz-zag road
leads. The remainder of the surface is also inlaid with Avails, which,
as seen from below, appear more ancient than the main building. The
town of CaraTiissar is spread about on the declivity. At the distance
of about two miles from the place, and at the bottom of the valley,
formed by the steeps of the great mountains, flows a torrent from the
N. E. : the waters of which foam through a bed of rocks and loose
stones, and spread through the cultivation around Carahissar. We
passed on a bridge of one arch : the bases of the arch are of stone
built on two projecting rocks, and the superstructure is of wood. Im-
mediately after passing the bridge is a fountain, and near it a garden,
from which we got some of the finest cherries that I ever eat. From
this spot the rock of Carah'mar was singularly striking.

Proceeding further, we entered the great tract of cultivation and gar-
dens, more immediately surrounding the town, and certainly constituting
one of the finest spots which I can recollect in Turkey, or indeed in any
other country. Plane trees, poplars, fruit trees of every denomination
in the thickest profusion, intermixed with corn fields, and enlivened by
the murmuring of a thousand streams, formed the fore-ground of the
view. We came to a second torrent which flows through the gardens
with great precipitation and noise, and adds its waters to the first.

336

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

The heat was that of summer ; the corn had lost its green tints, and was
ripening into yellow. Such was the difference of our elevation since
the preceding day : our descent to Carahissar indeed had been gradual
for nearly four hours.

The houses are terraced, and are built of all materials, mud, bricks,
stone, and wood. There is a custom-house : the town is administered
by a Musselim under the jurisdiction of Arz-roum. The place has two
mosques, and two baths : one of the former is a good structure with a
dome covered with lead. In the vicinity are many villages : among
others to the South, are Gezliche, YaichS, Sayit and Soucher.

Scarcely a fortnight before our arrival the town and the adjacent
country had been in a state of great disturbance ; a party of Janizaries
inimical to Jussuf Pacha (now (1809) the Grand Vizir, who had
lately governed the district) set fire to a large house which he had built
at Carahissar, and the whole, with an immense property which it con-
tained, was totally consumed.

We were delayed some time, at the moment of our departure, by a
fierce dispute that arose between the Persians and the Turk and his
family at whose house we had lodged. One of the Persian servants
had lost his shalwars or riding breeches, and, in his anxiety to find
them, taxed the Turk with having stolen them. The Turk retorted
with warmth ; and the contention was already going on at a high rate,
when the Embassador arrived, brandishing the breeches in the air, and
joining in the attack on the Turk. It seems that the Embassador, who
had before suspected the integrity of our host, immediately on hearing
the affray, searched in the suspicious parts of our chamber, and in a
bye-corner found (wrapped up in a slip of hay) the unlucky object of
dispute. The confusion of the Turk, who, by his dress and exterior
possessions, was passing for a man of respectability in the town, may
be better imagined than described.

We at length left Carahissar, and travelled eighteen miles W. on a
mountainous and stony road. About three miles from our last station
we saw the road to Diarbekir and Bagdad, bearing S. 25 W. We con-

AUZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

33T

iinued our own course to the W. and came to the banks of a large
stream called (like the earlier part of the Euphrates) the Kara Sou,
and flowing from E. to W. in a channel between two chains of rocks.
In its subsequent progress, like the Euphrates also, it assumes a new
name ; and at Niksar is called the Kelki Irmak*. I am told that it
takes its rise near the mines, fifteen days journey from the point where
we saw it, and that it finally falls into the Black Sea. We encamped
on the banks, having followed the windings of the river through the
mountains, on a bad road, now and then rendered dangerous by
narrow and steep passes. Our halt was on the extremity of the range,
with a village to our right ; on the eminence on the opposite side of
the water, appeared a ruin of which no one could give me any better
account, than that it was a church built by the Giaours or infidels.
I could observe a portico with a Roman arch ; and, not being able to
cross the stream and take a nearer view, I was obliged to be contented
with this scanty information. About noon a strong wind arose from
the S. W. bringing together an immense collection of thick clouds ;
which at the close of the evening fell in heavy torrents of rain. Here
again we were exposed to the storm for the night, without any other
shelter than that which the foliage of two trees, and the partial covering
of a shelving rock might yield.

1st. July. We proceeded W. again about eighteen miles, and as on
the preceding day, stopped by the banks of the river, which continued
to wind at the foot of two ranges of mountains. On the right chain
was the line of our route, in parts singularly dangerous : in one pass
the soil crumbled under our feet as we advanced, and fell a horrid
depth into the precipice over the river below. Nor indeed, if a little
more rain had fallen, would the road have been practicable at any
hazard. About eight miles from Kuley Hissar (on the left of our
course, and on the other side of the river) is a small structure built

* It is the ancient Li/cus.
X X

338

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

over a hot spring. In the little plains and vallies that now and then
intervened we met with much vegetation. The acacia was in great
plenty ; with plants of every hue. At the end of the stage we saw
the castle of Kuley Hissar, situated on the pinnacle of a very high part
of the mountains. We ascended a very steep and intricate road, and
from the summit saw in the deep valley extended at our feet, the
beautiful village of Kuley Hissar. It consists of houses unconnected
with one another, and scattered in a wood of every description,
(particularly of fruit-rtrees;) the refreshing tints of which were ad-
mirably contrasted with the arid surfaces of the surrounding heights.
A little art would render the scene perfect. Streams of running water
naunaaured in every part of this plantation ; and an exhilarating breeze
kept up a delightful temperature in the air. The situation however,
girded close by high land on every side, was in itself much warmer than
Carafmsar, or any part of our preceding route. Here indeed we found
the season for cherries expired ; and we got only the tishna (sour cherry)
and the white mulberry. The corn was generally approaching to a
state fit for the sickle: and in some warmer exposures had already
been cut.

The fort at the summit was some years ago destroyed by Jussup
Pacha, (the present Grand Vizier, 1809) who found that the inhabit-
ants of the neighbouring region were inclined to be turbulent and
independent ; a disposition which, I understand, is so little subdued,
that they are now rebuilding their strong hold. To the port of Janik
on the Black Sea, the distance from Kuley Hissar is not more than
twelve hours.

2d. July. We were obliged to hire our horses from this stage for-
wards at four piastres each. The master- of the Menzil KhonSh assigned
as a reason, that this village paid more than others to the Miri, and
was consequently relieved from the burthen of any stated establishment,
and was not required to furnish travellers at the common rate. Not-
withstanding therefore all our assertions that we were on the business

AftZ-ROUM TO AMASIA,

33Q

of government; notwithstanding our hoyour&ulm OT public orders,
(and others more immediately from the Muteelitn of Carahissar, in
whose jurisdiction the place is) we were obliged to comply. Yet the
horses for which we had paid so largely and unusually were too bad to
carry us further than twelve miles ; we were obliged therefore to un-
load the baggage, and rest them on a fine pasturage in an open part of
the mountains. Our course had been N. 50 W. During our ride
we traversed forests of pine trees, (intermixed with hazels, oak-bushes,
and a variety of other plants) here and there forming most beau*
tiful pictures. In some places the wood had been burnt down j and
the countrymen were ploughing the land between the old trunks,
where probably they would sow rye. The people here cut their trees
about five feet from the ground, burning them a little, and then apply*
ing the hatchet.

3d. We had not however long taken possession of Our station, and
our cattle had not long indulged on the fat pasture that extended itself
around, before a party of armed Turks, some on horseback and some
on foot, came to us and desired us to withdraw our horses from the
grass, for it was the property of their village. This startled the Per*
sians, who swore that the grass was common property, for that it was the
gift of God, and that their horses had as much right to feed upon it as
any other : the Turks, however, soon made them understand, that the
usages of their several countries differed in this respect : One of them
at the same time remarking, * You might as truly say, that corn, goats,
*• cows, and sheep are common property, for they are all, as Well as
" grass, the gifts of God." The peasants here indeed take much
pains with their grass, which they cut and dry into hay, and store up for
the winter: whereas in Persia, grass is unappropriated; and even barley
is open to the King's people; for we used to turn our horses into the
barley fields, where, in the King's name and right, they devoured all
around, while the poor cultivator did not dare to say a word to us\ We
were no longer in Persia, and therefore obeyed the summons ; and de-
parted an hour after sunset to seek a fresh pasturage.

x x 2

340

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

We rode for five hours through thick woods of pine trees beautifully
enlightened by the moon, which rose an hour after we had mounted.
We again stopped, and in a charming valley fed our cattle till morning
dawned; whea we proceeded, and in four hours reached the village of
Isker Sou. From the general direction of our road, we averaged proba-
bly about N. 70 W. on a distance which might be twenty-seven miles.
Three hours before we reached Isker Sou is the large village of Kizzil
Javeran, high on the mountain on the left; and afterwards on both sides
a number of tillages, the small wooden houses of which are scattered
unconnected^ in various directions on the declivities and summits of
the hills. The people build their houses entirely of wood, laying trunks
of the pine trees horizontally one over another, and fitting their extre-
mities at the angles by notches and holes. About five miles from Isker
Sou, on the left of the road, is a rock completely insulated among green
fields. The substance is a hard grey granite, in which is excavated,
certainly with great labour, a chamber nine feet square, with a seat and
two recesses. On the left of the inside on entering is a figure, which,
from its resemblance to a Cross, induced me to suppose that the spot,
in which it appeared, had been the retreat of some of the primitive
Christians.

Our Bosniai Quixote had been missing since the preceding evening;
and we felt a general apprehension that he had fallen a prey to the
Turks, who warned us from their pasture. He was late in preparing to
follow us, was encumbered with two horses, and with trappings so nu-
merous, that notwithstanding his warlike appearance he would have
presented an easy conquest to any attack ; above all, he was known to
carry much gold. But his life was in fact uninjured, and he rejoined
us in a subsequent part of our route. The poor creature was now and
then wont to sing some of his patriotic songs, which are of a peculiarly
doleful and melancholy harmony ; and every time he begun his lay it
happened that rain fell soon after. I unluckily told the Persians, who
were too credulous and superstitious not to believe me, that the singing
of the people of Bosnia invariably draws down rain : so that the poor

m m

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

341

fellow's strains, whenever he attempted to renew them, were afterwards
stopped by the joint force of all his comrades.

The people of Isker Sou informed me, that for six months of the
year the snow lies on the ground. The night indeed which we passed
in their village was so sensibly cold that all our warmest clothes were
brought into use, before we could get ourselves tolerably comfortable.
In a general view of our route, I should think that we had been rising
for some time. The country was in a state of internal warfare, which
however did not interfere with the passage of strangers. In the village
there was then from Janik one of Jusuff Pacha's Tuffenchee Bashees,
or captains, who with fifty followers was feeding at the expence of the
peasantry. Chappan Oglu was the principal object of terror in the
neighbourhood; his troops had lately fired the Bazar of Niksar,
which is under the jurisdiction of Haznadar Oglu, Governor of
Janik.

4th. of July. From Isker Sou we went to Niksar. We were seven
hours on the road on a bearing of West, which, from the unequal sur-
face of the country, may be reckoned at twenty-one miles. About one
mile and a half from Isker Sou we came to a wooden bridge over a
small stream, which is the termination of the Government of Arz-roum;
when therefore a Pacha is appointed, the ceremony of sacrificing is per-
formed at this spot. After this we passed several villages on all sides,
but totally abandoned by their inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the
different countries against the depredations of the Delhis, and the occa-
sional visits of the soldiers of Chappan Oglu. There is a village im-
mediately at the pass (where we entered the mountains) ; and here com-
menced a series of mountain scenery, of the wildest and most roman-
tic character. No description is adequate to paint the brill iancy and
luxuriance of vegetation, and the picturesque forms of this region;
and few imaginations are sufficiently fertile to supply the idea of a
spring in these mountains. Trees of every denomination grow here in
the wildest profusion, whilst their roots are embalmed by the odour of

342

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

myriads of flowers. The oak here is but an indifferent tree ; but there
are walnut and plane-trees, pines and firs of a fine growth. Yet lovely
as the spring was here, the cold on the mountains is said to be intense
in winter ; and even where we crossed the highest part of the range we
were enveloped some time in clouds, which came from the North, and
which now and then broke in frequent and sharp showers.

The descent to Niksar continues for three hours, and in some places
is rapid. The road winds through the thickest shrubbery, and at its
extremity is a collection of lofty plane-trees, which form a fine shade to
recruit the traveller after the tedious length of the hills. About an
hour before we reached Niksar we discovered the town, situated in a
valley, and, in the back-ground, a plain watered by the Kelki Irmak,
the stream which we had followed under another name near Cara-
hissar, and which empties itself into the river of Amasia, and thus is
carried into the Black Sea. The approaches to Niksar exceeded, if
possible, in beauty and rich vegetation those to Carahissar. The corn
here again was quite ripe, and we got cherries and mulberries.

Niksa?* is a long town crowned by a ruined fort of considerable extent ;
the walls and towers appear works of the Saracenic age, and at a dist-
ance still constitute a picturesque object; though they might now afford
but a sorry and impotent defence. A stream from the hills rushes
through the valley, and turns the wheels of many mills for cutting the
pines into planks. The houses here are no longer terraced; their roofs
are mostly of wood, shelving and covered with tiles.

* The Turks in their way have retained so many ancient names, that Neoccesarea may be
easily recognised under the name of Niksar. — D'An ville, Geogr. Anc. torn. ii. p. 34. It is
interesting as the city and biahoprick of St. Gregory Thaumaturgus ; who found there
but seventeen Christians, and left there but seventeen Pagans. He resolved to build a
church in his city : — " Ce qui n'estoit pas extraordinaire en ce temps la, et on avoit toute
" liberie d'en bast ir sous Philippe > qui commenca a regner en 241. Mais celle ci est la
u premiere doni Phistoire nous donne une connaissance certaine et expressed — Tille>ignt ?
Memoires Eccles : de VI. Premiers Siecles, Vol. III. p. 329-30.

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

343

5th. From Niksar to Tocat is nine hours, on a bearing of S. 60 W.
a distance winch I place at thirty miles. On quitting the town the road
continues through a variety of fine landscapes, and then comes to the
banks of the Kelki Irmak, which here flows from S. to N. After much
delay, and an ineffectual attempt to ford, we passed this river in a boat,
which could receive at once only a few of our party, and a small
portion of our equipage, and which was still more unequal to the
numbers of the peasantry crowding into it, anxious to cross the water,
with hoes, sickles and spades to their daily labour on the opposite side.

We then traversed a very rich country, the yellow appearance
of which announced the approach of harvest. In the plain were
large plantations of rice. We now entered the pass between the
mountains which leads to Tocat, and which here bore W. from Nikmr.
On the right is a small village ; the pass then narrows kite* a road
delightfully shaded by a wild profusion of trees, whilst a continual
rushing of water over a number of small cascades, refreshes the air,
and gives a new charm to the scenery around. At the extremity of
this pass are one or two villages ; and the road afterwards quits
the shade of the trees, and crosses a more open country.

Three hours before we reached Tocat, we came to the bed of a
river, flowing in the direction of our road, and enlivening a rich
country of corn, which was then all ripe. On the right of the road,
about four miles before the end of our journey, is a rock with ex-
cavated chambers*; one of which has an ornamented front. Soon
after wc had a view of the great town of Tocat, situated in the hollow
of two mountains, in its first appearance considerably diminished
below its real. size. As we approached, we crossed the river over
a large and solid bridge of five arches ; and then came to a paved

* This is possibly a part of the celebrated Comana Pontica, which is placed upon the Iris t
the modern Tozzan IrmaJc.—See D'Anville's Geogr. Ancienne 1768. torn. ii. p. 38.

The Christians of the country pointed out to Tavern ier some excavations in this dis-
trict, as the retreateof St, John Chrysostom. Tom. i. p. 13.

■i

344

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

road, shaded here and there by the foliage of immense walnut-trees.
The surrounding territory is very rich in corn, besides a number
of enclosures abounding in fruit-trees of every description. We
eat here, as at Carahissar, the largest and finest cherries that I
ever saw.

The Musselim of this place is appointed at Constantinople. The
person, who at the time of our arrival filled the office, took no
part in the quarrels of the chiefs, who were fighting all around him ;
and seemed indeed to care little about his own government. When
it was announced to him that an Elchee from Persia was about
visiting his town on the way to the presence of his sovereign, and
required his good offices ; he said, that the Elchee if he chose might
take up his lodgings in a caravanserai ; that he should have as many
horses as he might want to convey him away ; but as for the rest,
he himself could do nothing more for us. We had hitherto experi-
enced, in general, more hospitality, but we now accordingly took up
our quarters in a caravanserai on the Maidan, and very conveniently
lodged ourselves and cattle.

6th. Tocat is situated on the declivity of three hills, whose bases
join. To the Westward it is overlooked by the ruins of a fort, so
completely dilapidated, that its remains are scattered unconnectedly
over the surface of the rock on which they stand. To the north is a
large open spot or Maidan; on one side of Avhich is an excellent
caravanserai called the Vaivoda-Khan, and on the other, a very good
and well-built mosque. In the centre of the town there is another
mosque of equal beauty. The town is said to contain about twenty
thousand houses, or one hundred thousand inhabitants. The bazars
here are very numerous, and every thing common to Turkey and its
wants seemed to be here in plenty. The Armenian merchants com-
plained to us indeed of the great dearth of trade, and particularly
of that part of it which is connected with the mines. Those mines,
which are at Kebban, eight days journey from Tocat, and nearer to
Malatia than to any other great town* produce, (besides silver which

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

345

is sent to Constantinople,) between one hundred and one hundred
and fifty thousand okes of copper annually, which comes unwrought
to Tocat, and is there made up in cakes. The works indeed con-
nected with copper, and which occupy about three hundred shops,
are the only particular manufactures, for which the town is noted.
From these the copper wares are dispersed through all parts of
Turkey.

In the evening of the 7th we continued our journey. We left the city on
the same road by which we had entered ; and, crossing the bridge, tra-
versed a plain about five miles broad and fifteen long, where the harvest
was fully ripe, over one of the richest corn countries that can be imagined.
The distance of our stage to Turkhal was about twenty-five miles, on a
general bearing of W. This large village comes abruptly to the view,
and is remarkable principally as being built about a high rock, which
stands isolated from the surrounding mountains, and on the extreme
summit of which is the ruin of a fort. The village itself extends round
the rock to the Westward. The Tozzan Irmak that flows from Tocat,
passes close to the place from S. to N. At Turkhal, though we were
housed in a caravanserai (there called khan) , our expences were de-
frayed by the Cazi of the place. He had been informed of the treat-
ment which we had received from the Musselim of Tocat, and told
us that he would spend his hundred purses rather than we should
experience a similar reception from his hands. Finding ourselves
however uncomfortably situated in the caravanserai, (where, besides
our baggage and servants, were our horses) we sought refuge in the
garden of a hospitable Turk, who permitted us to spread our carpets
on a raised platform under a tree, and helped us without limit to the
mulberries and apricots which grew around. But we had not sat there
long, before we were surprised by a heavy shower of rain and hail,
which obliged us once more to retire to our heated caravanserai.
There are very large water wheels here, which are used for irrigating
the gardens and fields of the place, and which are turned by the

y y

346

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

fine river that runs through the village. Close to the mosque is a large
corn mill, which also is worked by two large wheels.

We proceeded from Turkhal in the evening, and travelled for the
distance of six hours. On passing through two masses of rock, which
in the obscurity of the night were extremely grand, we espied a strong
light, illuminating a hut and two or three lofty pine-trees. This was
one of the guard-houses, called durand, which are stationed at the
interval of about four hours, and are common to the territory of
Chappan Oglu. They are at once places of security and rest.
There is generally a party of eight or ten men kept in them to watch
over the safety of the roads. This one, which we were approaching,
was peculiarly picturesque. The Tatars, the Mirza, and I, dismounted
from our horses ; whilst we permitted the rest of our caravan to pro-
ceed. We entered an enclosure of stone- walls, built at the foot of a
high pine-tree. In one corner blazed an immense fire. An old Turk,
who received us, immediately spread goafs-skins for our seats ; whilst
a young man prepared to give us coffee. He first placed the water to
boil on the outer-embers of the fire, and then begun to pound the
coffee in a wooden vase, which he continued with much activity to a
sort of musical stroke, until the whole was beat into an impalpable
powder. He then put the pounded coffee into the water, and boiled
it up three or four times ; when he poured it into his coffee cup, kept
neatly bright, on a circular platter. We then resumed our march,
and in six hours from Turkhal made a halt at a large caravanserai
where we slept in the open air until the morning, The caravanserai
was an extensive building, of strong materials and in good repair.
Besides ourselves there were many peasants with their carts drawn by
buffaloes, who were waiting the dawn of day to proceed on their
journey. Our route led over a mountainous country, till we descended
towards Amasia, through a narrow pass bordered on each side by
rocks of a surprising size. The opening was not seen, until we were
close upon it, when it formed a beautiful and curious picture. The

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

347

approaches to Amasia from this side are very striking. On the right
is a long chain of heights, which appear in many places to have been
worked by the hand of man. Close to the road, and at the foot of
these mountains, is a deep channel cut into the rock, which extends
at least two miles, and is traced up to the river. It is unquestionably
the bed of an aqueduct, and has been the work of immense labour, for
the masses, through which in some places it is carried, are of a pro-
digious thickness.

On the left in the valley below, are detached houses, embosomed in
gardens and orchards. These are planted with fruit-trees of every
kind, and when we passed, were in full perfection. In this direction
the city of Amasia is hardly seen until almost its very entrance. The
approach is extremely grand ; and every step prepares the stranger
for a view which his imagination has already pictured as sublime ; and
which realizes every expectation.

v y e

CHAP. XVIII.

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

AMASIA I EXCAVATIONS MARCIVAN OSMANJIK PRECIPICES :

ROAD OF THE GENOESE TOSIA THE DELHIS CHERKES : RE-
MAINS STORM GEREDEH IMPORTANCE OF THE TATARS

PERSIAN DRESS INSCRIPTION -BOLI I FOREST: GUARDS OF

THE MOUNTAINS'. TIMBER FOR THE ARSENALS LANDSCAPES:

KHANDACK ; OUTLAWS SABANJA : CAUSEWAY; LAKE ISMID

GEVISA CONSTANTINOPLE.

AM ASIA is situated in the recess of an amphitheatre of strong
featured lands, which arise almost abruptly from the banks of a beau-
tiful stream, the Tozzan Irmak, that winds majestically at their roots.
The houses are built on either side, on the gradations of the declivities ;
and the town extends itself all around. On the North, situated in the
highest and most conspicuous part of the mountains, is the castle, which
appeared to me much in ruins ; and on the same portion of land, just
upwards from the boundaries of the town, are five very conspicuous
monuments cut into the rock. I crossed the river over a stone bridge,
and ascended the mountain in which they were excavated, escorted and

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

349

guided by a young Turk. We passed by the ruins of a fort built upon
a projecting part of the range, and came to three excavated chambers.
The first has a triangular ornamented front. The others have platforms
before them, and a vestibule cut into the rock behind. We then pro-
ceeded on towards the left, and arrived at the two largest excavations,:
A path of about three feet in breadth, cut deep within the front of the
mass into the appearance of a covered gallery, and guarded by a para-
pet wall of solid rock, leads along the side of the mountain. One of
these monuments is a mass of hard granite twelve paces square, severed
completely from the mountain by an interval (about four feet broad)
all around and above it, and excavated into a chamber. The other
contiguous and last monument has no passage behind or around.
These chambers are said to have been the retreats of St. Chrysos-
tom ;* but I could discover no inscription upon them, which might
throw any light upon the subject. In the castle above indeed, my
young conductor told me there were not only inscriptions but sculp-
tures ; but my time would not permit, me to ascend, and I had now
only a momentary leisure to enjoy the beauty of the view ; where was
the town arranged all about me, the river winding at my feet and
struggling under numerous water wheels, and the whole scenery en-
riched by the last rays of the setting sun. The minarets of many
mosques, (of which one near the river is a very fine building,) break the
sameness of the flat- tiled roofs.

The inhabitants of Amasia are distinguished for their urbanity and at-
tention to strangers ; and their women particularly are celebrated as
the fairest and most engaging of Asia Minor. Of this I had but a
single and chance opportunity to form a judgment: in riding through,
the streets, I saw an unveiled female who was joking at the door of
her house with a black slave girl, and who was more beautiful than any
whom I had long seen; nor as I passed did she shrink from my ob-

* St. John Chrysostom — possibly in his last exile and wanderings, A. D. 404-7. See
Milxer's « History of the Church of Christ." Vol. II. p. 291-3.

350

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

servation, for our curiosity was equal. We had a lodging assigned to
us in the dwelling of an opulent Turk, close on the banks of the river.
He had three brothers who lived in three houses contiguous to his own,
and who severally came to pay their respects to us. They were all
fairer than any Turks or Asiatics whom I had ever seen. Their man-
ners were peculiarly mild and agreeable, and they treated us with the
greatest civility. They spoke in raptures of their own city, although
none of them had ever seen any other place.

I was anxious to reach Constantinople as soon as possible, and resolved
therefore to leave the Persian Envoy to follow at his leisure, and to
proceed myself with increased expedition. Taking fresh horses then, I
set off from Amasia at the close of the night. There is an ascent of
two hours towards Marcivan ; and then, as far as I could judge in the
dark, the road leads through one uniform plain. The total distance
from Amasia is reckoned twelve miles, which we had travelled two
hours before the sun rose. [11th.] Marcivan abounds with walnut-trees,
and is surrounded by corn fields, which, as we were leaving the place at
break of day, were animated by the reapers.

Four hours from Marcivan, on the left of the road is the large village
of Haji Kieu, where the great caravan roads from Smyrna, Angora, &c.
meet. Shortly after we came to a house where travellers usually stop ;
but the inhabitants had now fled to the mountains, in consequence of
the passage of the Delhis; and we found only one old man, who
brought us some yaourt and cold pillau, and some bread that had been
concealed. Then again proceeding, we struck into a steep mountain
pass, at the foot of which led a torrent strewed with immense fragments
of rocks, that (by an earthquake, or by the washing away of the soil
beneath them) had been dislodged from the heights around : and vast
masses, which seemed to threaten our destruction as we passed, were
still sustained only by large poles or trunks of trees.

After this pass we entered into a rich but limited plain, thickly
studded with trees of every kind, and abounding in corn. At its ex-
tremity we stopped at a delicious grove of immense walnut-trees beau-

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

351

tifully watered. In this charming spot was encamped a bat/rack or
company of soldiers going from Marcivan on their road towards Con*
stantinople. The passage of this species of troops is not dreaded by
the country, as they are composed of respectable men, who go to the
war through a spirit of religion.

From an eminence on the road we first discovered the rock of Osman*
jik, forming a striking point amid the green and lively scenery of the
plain. On this aspect no part of the town of Osmanjik appears, ex-
cept a few houses on the skirts of the rock. The bridge, indeed, which
leads out of the place is a conspicuous object in the view. On a nearer
approach, that which at a distance appeared an immense black mass is
found to be broken into several detached heights, all of the same
species of stone, and all originally connected by the art of man into
one impregnable fortress. The walls and turrets, which still cover the
various surfaces, appear the remains of Saracenic work. Osmanjik in
its present state is only a large village ; the distance from Marcivan is
reckoned a march of fourteen hours. The plain around is cultivated
principally with corn and vines ; it is thickly wooded and well watered
by the Kizzil Irmak, the ancient Halys, in its course to the W. The
river is a deep yellow bordering on the colour of sand, and very much
troubled. We crossed it over a well-built bridge of fourteen arches,
the materials of which (still white and fresh) attest that it was a
structure of the best times of the Government. Four arches on the
left are dry, the earth having encroached upon the bed so sub-
stantially, that houses and gardens exist now where the water once
flowed.

The passage of the Delhis through this place was marked with
peculiar acts of hostility. The inhabitants, who found themselves
outraged by their insolence, actually came to blows with them ; and,
when at length the troops departed, for several days kept closed the
wooden gate on their bridge, until the soldiers were completely out of
their neighbourhood.

352

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

We departed from Osmanjik about an hour before sun-set, and
paced the banks of the Halys as far as our next stage Haji Hamza,
called eight hours from Osmanjik. The scenery of the river appears to
partake of every quality which can make landscape admirable. Very
fine lands rise above it ; along which, still following the stream in all
its windings, the road is carried, presenting to the travellers at every
reach new and striking pictures. Here and there we came to fine
collections of walnut-trees ; and then crossed large plantations of rice,
which, for the facility of irrigation, were situated immediately on the
borders of the water. At about two hours from Osmanjik we turned
to the left, and ascended a very steep part of the mountains, on a broad
paved road, which, as far as the dusk of the evening permitted me to
observe, seemed good. On reaching the extreme eminence, I perceived
that, we were on the brink of an immense precipice, under which the
river was winding ; and that we were enclosed on all sides by stupend-
ous heights. The obscurity and stillness of the night gave a solemnity
to the scene which I cannot describe. We continued along this
precipice, viewing the same grandeur of scenery for some time, but in
perfect security : for we were travelling on a road of a smooth and easy
surface, and guarded on the side of the danger by a parapet wall. My
Janizary told me that the road was cut into the vivid rock by the
Genoese. He was probably right in the materials, as in the present
age nothing but rock would have been in so good order : perhaps he
was right also in the founders, to whom he ascribed the original work ;
but the darkness prevented my forming any judgment of the correct-
ness of his information.

We came to Haji Hamza in the dead of the night. The post-house
is on the banks of the river. There are few other habitations, except
indeed the fort. We had scarcely taken the rest of an hour, when we
were again on our horses, on the road to Tosia, called a distance of
twelve hours. We came to Tosia about four hours after sun-rise, after
having met several caravans, the mules of which were the finest that I

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE

353

had seen in the country. In fact, the mules of Turkey, and particu-
larly in this part of it, are much larger and finer limbed than any of
the sort in Persia. So that the Mirza, when we were travelling toge-
ther, was on the point of buying several as a present for the King, de*
claring that His Majesty had none of equal beauty.

Tosia is a large town situated among beautiful environs on the slope
of a hill, and presents itself in its whole extent intermixed with several
handsome mosques. The post-house is just on the skirts of the
town.

We proceeded from Tosia to Coja Hissar, distant eight hours. On
leaving Tosia we entered on an amphitheatre of land, rising in gentle
acclivities all around, cultivated more richly than I can describe. The
bed of the valley was one layer of corn fields, fenced off by hedges of
evergreens and fine trees. We then came to large plantations of rice,
and extensive tracts of vineyards. The road was beautifully shaded
on both sides, until we came to a station of guards of the mountains,
where we entered their waste district, and quitted the cultivation. We
reached Coja Hissar about three hours before sun-set. I went into the
coffee-house attached to the post-house; and after having eat some
soup and meat-balls* I laid myself down to sleep. We had heard
that two thousand of the Delhis were encamped in the neighbourhood,
about two hours distant from the place ; and accordingly determined
to pass them in the night. Little sleep is necessary to the body : when
I was awakened by my Janizary, just at the dusk of the evening, I
thought that it was the grey of tlie morning, and that I had slept
through the night ; and I upbraided him therefore with laziness, for not
having proceeded as we had agreed the night before. I felt as refreshed
with tiie three hours rest, as if I had slept undisturbed through a whole
night, although I had taken no sleep since I had left Amasia, except
what had been forced upon me when on my horse. Though sleep will

" ChorbaK soup; Doltnak, meat-balls, in vine leaves.'
z z

354

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

certainly overcome us in defiance of all our efforts, a few minutes suf-
fice; and when the strongest paroxysm is over, refresh indeed as much
as hours in bed. We are seldom aware how little food and how little
sleep are necessary for health and strength.

When we left Coja Hissar the weather portended a storm. Dark
clouds were gathering over the mountains; and as the night closed, we
now and then only got a glimpse of a star. This proved very favour-
able to us, for we had not rode long before we discovered the numerous
fires of the Delhis that illuminated the whole of the country to a consi-
derable distance. They were encamped on the opposite side of the
river to that on which our road lay, so that guarded by the water and
by the darkness, we passed them without being challenged by a
single one.

On the 13th, about one o'clock in the morning, we reached Carajoh
a distance of eight hours; and departed again to Carajalar, distant
four hours. It is remarkable that the country from Carajol is entirely
destitute of trees ; losing, as it were by magic, all that variety of foliage
which characterizes the preceding region. We were detained at Cara-
jalar, from the morning till the evening, by a deficiency of horses.
Although we gave five piastres for the hire of each, yet it was not till
we had witnessed a scene of strife and contention amongst the villagers,
in which there was some blood shed, that we were supplied. The post-
house had been broken up for some time past ; and the burthen, in con-
sequence fell upon the people, who, in their several turns, furnished the
travellers with horses at the rate of five piastres each ; though on every
emergency there was a similar difficulty to enforce the regular levy in
succession. As I was waiting for my horses, a deputation from this
village returned, which had been sent to the Chief of the Delhis for the
purpose of offering him a certain sum of money, in case he did not re-
main there with his troops longer than one night. The object was at-
tained, though I could not learn the amount of the stipulated payment.
In this manner the Bey commanding the Delhis enriches himself during
his march,

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

355

At length, after having collected my horses from various quarters, I
departed for Geredeh, distant sixteen hours. At six hours from Cara-
jalar is a large town called Cherkes, situated in a plain, environed by
some pretty groupes of trees. It is surrounded by a wall, and on enter-
ing one of the gates, I casually observed on the outside a Greek in-
scription in good character, carved on a stone which formed the
lowermost part of the arch. On quitting the place I noticed on the
road side, at several intervals, shafts of small columns terminated on
either side by a plinth and tores, and apparently erected as monuments in
places of burial; for all around were spread other blocks of stone, more
obviously designed to cover graves. As the night closed we deviated
from the road to avoid Hamanlee, the town and fortress of a man
(Hajee Ahmet Oglu,) who, being a rebel to the Porte, is always in
arms ; and whose parties (patroling the hills in watch for his safety)
infest the whole country, and sometimes have not spared travellers.
Instead, therefore, of ascending the mountain, we turned to the left
through a valley. There was every appearance of a storm as the night
fell; and our apprehensions were soon realized. We were overtaken in
the open country by one of the severest tempests of rain, thunder, and
lightning, that I ever witnessed. Our horses refused to proceed, and
turned their backs instinctively to the storm. The whole country was
lighted by the flashes, which, ceasing at intervals, left us in impenetra-
ble darkness. I can bear witness in this instance to the excellence of
English broad cloth, a cloak of which preserved me from the heaviest
torrents of rain, whilst my Janizary, who had a Turkish cloak made of
a species of felt, was drenched from head to foot. After the storm had
expended itself, we proceeded, till we reached the skirts of a village, where
we fed our horses, and slept for an hour on the wet grass. 14th. The
morning broke with unusual splendour, and introduced a most roman-
tic country to us. We had now ascended to a region, the elevation of
which was marked very sensibly by the increase of the cold, and by the
tardiness of vegetation in comparison to that of the plains below. The
peasantry were here ploughing the ground; and some delightful

z z 2

356

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

patches of cultivation were interspersed amongst the ranges of pines
and other forest trees, that covered the summits and enlivened the de-
clivity of the mountains.

Geredih is a large town ; at the entrance is a very extensive tannery.
The shops and coffee-houses of the bazars seemed also well peopled by
a great number of well-looking Turks, sitting down and enjoying them-
selves with their pipes. We had been taught to apprehend here also
a second detention for horses, from the great number of Tatars who
had been passing. One of them indeed had just preceded us ; and had
left us a part of his meal of fried eggs and soup. The Tatars look upon
themselves as great personages on the road ; and expect proportionate
attention at the post-houses, which, as I observed, was scarcely ever
denied to them. The Tatar who accompanied me was so tenacious
Of this consequence of his class, that he always took the best things
for himself, and treated me as his inferior. Whenever he arrived, a
fcoft seat and a cushion were spread for him, and, as he lighted his
pipe, a dish of coffee was prepared for him ; whilst to me he trans-
ferred an indifferent seat and the second dish. The fact is, indeed,
that my appearance bespoke very little of the master ; and I could
hardly wonder therefore that the Tatar was treated with all the respect
which I might have expected as due to myself. My black skin cap
was become very dusty ; my silk trowsers were all torn ; my Persian
boots were soaked with rain and twisted under the heel ; whilst my
coat and great coat were all in dirt and in rags. As I did not wish
to travel in my own character, knowing how extravagantly Frangees
(and Englishmen in particular) are made to pay, I was well content to
pass for a Persian : and the little notice that was thus taken of one
looking so miserable, gave me liberty to walk about and make my obser-
vations at my ease. Of all this contrast of our appearance however,
my Tatar profited ; travelling as a gentleman at my expence, whilst I
as easily passed for his attendant.

From Gered^k to Boli is twelve hours. On quitting GeredSh we
crossed one of the most beautiful regions that I had ever seen. It was

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AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

357

a continual garden of vineyards and corn-fields, shaded by walnut
and oak trees, growing here to a greater size than any that I had
hitherto found in the country. At very frequent intervals, on each
side of the road, were large collections of blocks of stone, of different
shapes, squares, oblongs, and pillars of five or six feet high : several
with Greek inscriptions upon them. That these spots were ancient
places of burial is more certain, because there are now mixed among
them many modern tombstones. There are two inscriptions near the
durand or guard-house : one, on a column on the left of the road ; and
one, inserted in a wall on the right. I did not care for the chance of
decyphering them to stop the rapid progress of our journey, (for we
now went generally on a full gallop ;) but on coming up to a very
conspicuous pillar on the side of the road near a fountain, I could not
neglect the opportunity of copying it, (see plate XXIX.) while our
horses were drinking. It was terminated by a cross, which was an
evidence that the monument had some connection with the primitive
Christians. I wished much to have taken the other inscriptions ; as,
in general, they seemed legible ; but I found that any notice of Greek
was incompatible with the character of a Persian, and might have
excited a suspicion of my disguise. As we approached Bolt, the
beauty of the country and the richness of cultivation increased. The
plain, in which the town is situated, is quite a garden ; and was then
displaying all the lively green of the height of spring, except where the
ripened corn broke in upon the general verdure. The quantity of
rain, that had so lately fallen, had left this brilliant freshness on nature ;
but, even without this extraordinary supply, there is never any dearth
of water. Boli> on the side by which we approached it, is not seen
until we enter its very streets, as it is situated behind a hill. It is a
large place surrounded by an open palisade, which indeed is its only
defence. From the appearance of the streets and bazars the place is
well peopled. As we galloped into the town in the true haste and
style of couriers with our surujees (or conductors), making a kind of
hideous noise to announce our approach, a company of Turkish

358

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

soldiers, with colours flying (and preceded by a man beating a sort of
little kettle drum tied to his middle) entered at a very slow and admir-
ably-contrasted pace.

We departed from Boli in the evening; and, having quitted its
delightful plain, begun to wind among mountains, and entered the
large forest to which Boli gives its name. Through the whole there is
a fine causeway made by some pious Mussulman*, which is a sufficient
guide to the traveller if he will only follow it through all its windings.
The Tatars prefer the side to the road itself ; though the path which
they thus make for themselves may be full of water and mud. We
chose the same, even when it was dark ■, for of the two evils, the fatigue
of wading is less to the horses and mules, than that of scrambling and
stumbling over the pavement.

Having rode six hours through the forest we reached a small wooden
hut, the station of the guards of the mountains. Here we determined
to wait till morning, as my Tatar told me that the forest grew so much
thicker as we advanced, that in so dark a night it became dangerous to
proceed. We unloaded therefore our baggage, and seated ourselves
among a party of a dozen Turks, the chief of whom, a merry fellow,
did the honours of his hut very agreeably. He was seated in the
corner, and his men were strewed around him on the floor. Pistols,
swords and muskets, and every implement of a soldier, were hung along
the walls. Whilst the oldest of the party made some coffee for us,
the youngest took down a rude guitar from a peg, and broke the
stillness of the night by a song, to which he applied the whole force of
his lungs, and which did not ill express the wild life of himself and his
companions. I attempted to compose myself to sleep in a corner, but
the heat of an immense wood-fire had given so much animation and
impertinence to the fleas and vermin of the hut, that I was obliged to

* It was made by the celebrated Kuprigli, the Grand Vizier. See Tavernier.
Tom. I. p. 7.

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

359

take refuge in an open shed on the outside, where I slept very soundly
till the morning.

15th. As the morning broke, we proceeded on our journey, and pene-
trated the deeps of the forest. The road, in some of its windings through
the rich wood-land, presented some of the most fanciful and picturesque
landscapes that the imagination of a painter could wish. I remarked
some of the finest specimens of ash, elm, plane, poplar, larch and
beech ; with, now and then, some oaks larger than any that I had
ever seen in Asia. This forest, which extends over a vast tract of
country*, supplies an unceasing source of timber to the arsenals of
Constantinople. Their mode of felling the tree is susceptible of much
improvement ; for they first burn it towards the root, (by which they
injure the finest part of the wood) and then apply the axe. In our
progress we overtook immense spars which were dragged by buffaloes,
and by slow journies are thus brought to Constantinople. Each end
is supported on a light carriage of two wheels ; but it requires all the
prodigious strength of the buffaloe (and no other animal is equal to
the attempt) to be able to cope with the difficulties which the extreme
badness of the roads in the rainy season presents. We heard the
howling of wolves all around us ; and their great numbers are some-
times fatal to those travellers, who risk themselves at night through the
wilds of the forest.

Khandak, our next stage, twelve miles from Bolt, is famed for the
ferocity and wild freedom of its inhabitants. It is a village situated
in the very heart of the forest, and its first appearance presents all the
beauty that an intermixture of wood, water, cultivation, and buildings
can combine. The low houses, with their shelving roofs nicely tiled,
at the foot of lofty trees, (with partial openings here and there, where
murmured a stream of pure water) ; still more enlivened by the most

* It is called the Agatch Degnis, or " Sea of Trees." See its extent in Otter. Tom. II.

360

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

picturesque looking men and women, really formed a landscape which
a Claude, a Hobbima, or a Ruysdael would have envied. We
soon discovered however the temper of the inhabitants : all the men
and even boys of ten years old, wore a brace of pistols, and a large
knife in their girdles ; and displayed countenances more expressive of
savage hardihood than I recollect to have ever seen. This horde of
desperadoes is extremely obnoxious to the Porte; but, entrenched in
their woods, they bid defiance to firmans or Capidgi Bashees. Within
these few years (and the fresh appearance of the houses attests the fact)
an officer from Constantinople was sent with a large body of men to
surprise the inhabitants, and either to destroy them or take them pri-
soners ; but they had notice of the design, and fled into the fastnesses
of the woods, leaving their homes as the prey of the invaders, who im-
mediately burnt them to the ground, destroying all the poor creatures
that happened to fall into their way. No sooner however had the
troops of the Porte quitted the territory than the natives returned,
cleared away the smoking rubbish, and rebuilt their houses, as if nothing
had happened.

16th. We were here obliged to pay five piastres a horse to proceed to
Sabanja, distant twelve hours. As we departed from Khandak, the road
begun gradually to open, and presented to us extensive tracts of culti-
vation. We came to a long causeway of wood, formed indeed only of
trees thrown across and so completely out of repair, that we passed it
in many places at the hazard of our lives. At its termination (several
hours from Khandak) there is a wooden bridge of considerable extent,
but a part of it had fallen ; and we were obliged therefore to ford the
river over which it is built, and which was broad but not deep or rapid,
although much rain had lately fallen. We followed a cart dragged
by buffaloes across the stream, and got in safety over it. After the
passage of the river we reached the borders of the beautiful lake of
Sabanja, surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting scenery;
its distant mountains and waters dying away in the softest tints on the

iBHiitti

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

361

horizon. We traversed its shores for nearly three hours, passing lands
the fine projeetions and woods of which reflected in the water below the
most beautiful pictures.

Sabanja is a place situated in a very thick wood, and notorious
equally for the impudence and the independance of its inhabitants.
We were not long detained at the post-house ; and departed for Ismid,
hoping to reach it before the close of night, as the road was reported
unsafe after a certain hour. Although it was too dark to analyse
the beauties of the plain towards Ismid, yet the general outline of the
country was sufficiently discernible to impress me with an idea of its
beauty and magnificence : and something also I gained by the solemn
and dubious light of evening, as it softened and harmonized the whole
landscape.

It was, however, entirely dark when we crossed the long causeway
that leads into Ismid. The plain was here and there illumined by the
fires of the caravans that had encamped for the night. We put up at
the coffee-house adjacent to the post, and early in the morning departed
for Gevisa, distant nine hours. Ismid is a large town most delightfully
situated on the declivity of the mountain bordering on the branch of
the sea, that forms its deep and beautiful gulph. In my rapid progress
I could just ascertain that the place contained some well-built houses,
and some in situations that must have commanded fine and extensive
views of all its scenery. The water is so girt around with high moun-
tains that it appears a great lake ; but the imagination is soon unde-
ceived by remarking the large boats which navigate it, and which I soon
recognized to be those of Constantinople and the Bosphorus. My anxiety
to reach the end of my journey was now increased ; and I stopped not
to examine the antiquities of Ismid*

At about four hours from Ismid, having in many parts of the road
paced the shores of the sea, we reached a small village situated on the

* The ancient Nicomedia.
3 A

362

AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

very borders of it. Here were passage-boats to Constantinople, and many
persons were going. I preferred, however, the surer route, and conti-
nued with my post-horses to Gevisa, ascending a steep road near an old
and ruined fortification.

Gevisa is a small town with a good mosque and neat minarets nicely
white-washed. The country around it was little cultivated and less
wooded, so that it excited in me no other interest than that which its
vicinity to the capital might give. Yet, in any other circumstances
than those of my eagerness to reach Constantinople, I should not have
overlooked the delight of searching for the tomb of Hannibal. I now
however, made every haste to get to Scutari before dark, but I did not
succeed, and was obliged to pass the night in a coffee-house on the
borders of the Bosphoms.

The next morning, the 18th July 1809, I crossed from Scutari, and
took up my abode in Pcra, having completed the journey from Teheran
in two months and ten days, in which time I had not once slept out of
my clothes.

CHAP. XIX.

CONCLUSION.

PERSIAN OPINIONS OF TURKEY MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, THfi

ENVOY, ENTERTAINED BY MR. ADAIR: INTRODUCTION OF THE

SUITE TO THE MANNERS OF EUROPE THEIR ACCOMMODATIONS

TO OUR USAGES CONTRASTED WITH THE TURKS DIFFERENCE

OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER ADVANCES OF PERSIA DE-
PARTURE FROM TURKEY THE PERSIANS AT SEA CONVERSA-
TIONS WITH THE ENVOY! ON THE DRESS, BEAUTY, OCCUPATIONS,
AND EDUCATION OF THE WOMEN OF PERSIA.

AN a short time after my arrival, the Persian Envoy and his suite
rejoined me at Constantifiople. The splendour of the scenery, and the
great novelty of every object about that city, did not seem to strike
them with the surprise that I had expected. Few people are more
sensible than they are to any thing, that is new and extraordinary ;
and few more curious and inquisitive. I could therefore only attribute
their apparent indifference to the downright jealousy which they
entertain of the Turks. Often when (struck with the beauties of the
very fine tracts of country which we were passing) I have attempted to
make them join in my feelings of admiration, they merely yielded a

3 a 2

364

CONCLUSION.

cool assent; always endeavouring to lessen my ardour by saying,
" what is the use of such country, if it be without order?" And they
considered almost as a gross national insult any comparison between
the arid unshaded mountains of Persia, and the splendid foliage and
rich vegetation of the Turkish dominions. As, however, they were
very keenly alive to the beauties of nature, and enjoyed much the
shade of trees and the refreshing sound of running water ; and as such
spots recurred constantly during the course of our journey, they could
not restrain their expressions of delight, though they always added at
the same time, " What a pity this charming country is in the hands
" of these people ! If we had it, (and God grant we shall) what a
" paradise it would be."

I frequently visited the Mirza Abul Hassan at Scutari. The
windows of his apartment had a fine view of the great extent of Con-
stantinople, the Seraglio point, the shipping in the harbour, the palaces
of Doima Baghehe, and part of the Sultan's fleet, (consisting of two
three-deckers and five seventy-fours, at their anchorage) and all the
activity spread over the Bosphorus by the numerous vessels of all
descriptions rowing about in every direction, altogether forming the
most beautiful picture that an imagination the most fertile could picture
to itself; and contrasted in the strongest manner with the misery,
dulness, and sterility of Teheran and its surrounding scenery. When-
ever I called his attention to it, he seemed to shrink from the observa-
tion ; and if I talked of the Turkish fleet, he said, " who can look at
" any ships, after he has seen English ships?" Indeed, he was so
little disposed to compliment the Turks, that when the Caimakan*
being desirous to inspire him with a grand idea of the naval force of
the Sultan, sent a Turkish officer to conduct him near the fleet, the
Persian replied, " I have seen English ships much finer than any
" thing that you can show me."

Yet in cases where no national jealousy intervened, whenever
hospitality and kindness were shewn the Persian, I must do him the

CONCLUSION.

365

justice to add, that he never omitted to make the strongest acknow-
ledgments of them ; and, I believe, the fullest returns in his power.
The most trifling attention never appeared, from the general conver-
sation and temper of him or his people, to be thrown away upon them.
The Envoy always spoke in raptures of the kindnesses which he
had received in India, mentioning the names of his friends every
time with an increased delight, and apparently with an unfeigned
sincerity.

During the Mirza's residence at Constantinople, he was invited by
Mr. Adair to an entertainment, given on the occasion, and consisting
of a dinner under tents at the BuyukderS meadow, and a ball and
supper at night, in a house borrowed for the purpose. The Mirza
did not seem at all astonished at the introduction of ladies into the
society of men, as he had already witnessed our customs in the
English settlements in India : but his attendants, who had just left the
very innermost parts of Persia, by one common consent collected them-
selves together in a corner, and eyed every thing with the most anxious
astonishment and attention. Their natural loquacity seemed to have
quite forsaken them, and they sat with their mouths wide open, and
eyes full-staring, and uttered not a single Avord.

When the hour of dancing arrived, the Mirza entered the ball-room,
escorted by all his servants. There his people were more than ever in
amaze, particularly when the whole assembly was in motion. Of all
the dances the Waltz excited the most wonder and perhaps apprehen-
sion, for one of them quietly asked my servant in Turkish, " Pray
" does any thing ensue after all this?"

In the national character of the Persian, the most striking differ-
ence from that of the Turk is perhaps the facility with which he
adopts foreign manners and customs. I remarked two instances
during our stay at Constantinople : the first occurred one morning when
I went to visit the Mirza, where one of his servants took off his cap
and saluted me by a bow in our fashion : again, at a ball, several of

366

CONCLUSION.

his attendants took off their caps and sat bald-headed, from the sup-
position that it was disrespectful in European company to keep the
head covered, whilst they saw every one uncovered. There were
many other accommodations to our usages which would never have
been yielded by a Turk ; such as eating with knives and forks, sitting
at table, drinking wine, &c. The Mirza himself told me that when
he was in Calcutta, he wore leather-breeches and boots. I am sure
then that if the Persians had possessed as much communication with
Europeans, as the Turks have had, they would at this day not only
have adopted many of our customs, but, with their natural quickness,
would have rivalled us in our own arts and sciences. Unlike the
Turks, they never scruple to acknowledge our superiority, always
however reserving to themselves the second place after the English in
the list of nations : whereas the Turk, too proud, too obstinate, and
too ignorant to confess his own inferiority, spurns at the introduction
of any improvement with equal disdain from any nation.

The great changes that are now making in the military system in
Persia, particularly by the Prince Royal in Aderbigian, will in a very
short time so much influence the general character and disposition of
the people, that they will scarcely be recognizable. Ever since
their late wars with Russia, and their political connections with Europe,
the effect produced has been most striking : and a person of excellent
authority, who was in Persia during the time of Kerim Khan, af-
firmed, in my hearing, that the nation could scarcely be considered
the same.

From Constantinople we went to Smyrna, where we remained till we
quitted Turkey. On the 7th September 1809, the Mirza and his
servants went on board the Success, Captain Ayscougii, to proceed to
England. The people of Smyrna gathered in crowds to see him. The
yards were manned; and he was honoured with a salute of fifteen
guns, which (as soon at least as it was over) gave him no little
satisfaction.

■■■

CONCLUSION.

367

He soon accommodated himself to the manner of a ship, sleeping
in a cot, and eating with a knife and fork. He did not miss a single
opportunity of informing himself on every tiling which he saw on
board ; and whatever he learned, he carefully noted in a book.
His attendants seldom complained, except sometimes of the badness
of the water, the hardness of the biscuit, and the want of fruit. I
was struck with their natural ignorance of relative distance: they
had been ever accustomed to calculate distance by mtnzils or day's
journies ; and they were surprised to find it impossible to continue
such reckoning. A world of water seemed to them incomprehensible;
and one of them gravely said to me — "This is quite extraordinary :
" this country of your's is nothing but water !"

The Persians were particularly astonished, that women and little
boys went to sea. The Mirza seeing some women on board the
Success, exclaimed, " Is it possible! if I were to tell our women in
" Persia that there were women in ships, they would never believe
" me. To go from one town to another is considered a great under-
u taking amongst them; but here your women go from one end of
" the world to the other, and think nothing of it. If it were even
" known in my family that I was now in a ship and on the great
" seas, there would be nothing but wailings and lamentations from
" morning to night."

Among the many things which struck the Persians as extraordinary
on board the ship, was the business of signals. They looked very
much inclined to believe, that I was telling them untruths, when I
said, that at two fursungs distance they might ask any questions from
another ship, and receive an immediate answer: and that when we
should reach England, our arrival would be known in London in ten
minutes, and every necessary order returned before we could get
out of the ship. All these tilings the Mirza carefully noted down in
his book, ever exclaiming, " God grant that all such things may take
" place in my country too 1"

368

CONCLUSION.

When we arrived at Malta we were not permitted to land on ac-
count of the quarantine; a very mortifying prohibition to the Per-
sians, who had no greater wish than to set foot once again on shore.
I could make the Envoy indeed comprehend the nature of quarantine
laws; but his people were not so tractable, and frequently sug-
gested their fears to him, that he might not be allowed to land
even in England. He spoke seriously to me : — " It is well that I
" have already seen your countrymen, and know many of their
" regulations; for, if any other Persian had been in my place he
" would have required instantly to return back to his own coun-
" try/' They were much delighted with the exterior of Malta;
and particularly with the quantity of shipping in the port. On
the left of the harbour, there is a very fine building begun by
Buonaparte, intended as a hospital. They seemed mightily as-
tonished that so superb a building should be the habitation of
the sick.

Those, indeed, who have been accustomed to live under an arbi-
trary government, and to see acts of despotism committed every
day, look with contempt, rather than with admiration, upon the
establishments of a free and liberal government; and ridicule objects
by which the promoter apparently and directly gains nothing.

We talked of female dress. I asked the Envoy what effect the visit
of an European woman dressed in her own way would produce in
Persia. He replied, that " if the King were to see her, He would
" probably order all his Harem to adopt the costume, and that every
" other man would follow his example, and enforce a fashion, which
" is not only so much more beautiful, but so much less expensive than
" their own. Their women are clothed in brocade and gold cloth,
" which is soon spoilt ; or at least which is always cast off, whenever
" they hear that a new cargo arrives from Russia."

I asked him if he had seen any handsome women in Constantinople :
he replied, that he had seen none so beautiful as those of Persia.

CONCLUSION.

369

" They were fair indeed, but they wanted that carnation on their cheeks,
" which is called the numuck or salt of beauty ; and which is the se-
" cond requisite of female perfection. The first is large black eyes with
" brows very much arched." A tame antelope was then playing about
the cabin close to me, when the Mirza said, " Do your poets ever use
M the simile so constantly applied by ours, ' eyes like the stag?' The
" frequency of that image will prove the value which we attach to the
" object/'

I desired him to tell me the principal occupations of the women in
the Harem. He complied : " They sew, embroider, and spin : they
" make their own clothes ; and my wife even used to make mine :
" besides that, they superintend all the domestic concerns of the
" house ; they keep an account of the daily expences ; distribute pro-
" visions to the servants ; pay their wages ; settle all disputes between
" them ; manage the concerns of the stable ; see that the horses
" have their corn ; and, in short, have the care of all the disbursements
" of the house. The King's mother had more business than can be
" described. She had the controul of all her son's Harem, which
" might consist altogether of more than a thousand women : and you
" may well conceive the trouble which they could give." When I
suggested the difficulty of a woman transacting so many occupations,
without seeing any other man than her husband, and asked how she
could settle any business but that of the Harem itself? and how she
could succeed even in that without seeing the men servants? He
replied, that " in the households of Persia there is always an officer
" called a Nazir, with whom the wife daily arranges all that relates to
" the male part of the establishment, to whom she pays the wages of
" the others ; and who is accountable to her." As a necessary prepa-
ration for the duties which thus devolve upon them, the women of
Persia learn to read and write: as children they are sent to school
with the boys, and when too old to be permitted to go unveiled,
their education is finished at home by female Mollahs, who attend them

i70

CONCLUSION.

for the purpose. They do not, however, like European women,
learn music and dancing: these arts are taught to slaves onty,
who practise them for the amusement of their owners : and the
wives never sing or dance, except perhaps at the wedding of a brother
or sister.

The King has this right over all the women of his realm, that
they must appear unveiled before him.

THE AKAB PIRATES.

(jj. 44.]

THE Arabs in every age, have been alike distinguished for a spirit of
commerce and of plunder : and were early and great navigators, both
as merchants and as pirates. In the time of Mahomed there existed
a predatory tribe, whose chief is described in the Koran, according to
Ebn Haukal,* as " the King, who forcibly seized every sound ship."
This empire is said to have been founded prior to the time of Moses ;
and if the continuance of the same occupations on the spot be a proof
of the identity of the people, it may be traced to the Arabs of the
present day.

The Portuguese power was often violated by these pirates :f and in
the same age the English interests in the East were so much endangered
by them, that one of the Agents in Persia (who had all indeed succes-
sively made representations on the necessity of sending an armed force
to destroy them) declared, that " they were likely to become as great
" plagues in India, as the Algerines were in Europe/'^ Some of these
ships had from thirty to fifty guns :§ and one of their fleets, consisting
of five ships, carried between them one thousand five hundred men.||

* Sir William Ouseley's Ebn Haukal, p. 12. p. 95.

t Stevens's Faria y Sousa, vol. iii. p. 30, &c.

X Bruce's Annals of the East India Company, vol. iii. p. 198.

^ and || Brvce, iii. 649. 169. In 1715 the Muscat fleet consisted of one ship ofseventj-

3b2

372

ARAB PIRATES.

Within the last few years, their attacks have been almost indiscriminate ;
nor had they learnt, to respect even the English colours, as the instance
in the text, .aid the subsequent capture of the Minerva, Captain
Hopgood, proved too well. The British government however, know-
ing the intimate connection of these pirates on the coast with the
Wahabee* proceeded in the suppression of the evil with cautious judg-
ment; and when, by the extension of these outrages to themselves,,
they were driven to vindicate the honour of their flag, and to extirpate
their enemies, they regarded all the ports, which had not actually in-
cluded the British within their depredations, as still neutral; and
endeavoured to confine their warfare to reprisals, for specific acts of
violence, rather than to commit themselves generally against the
Wahabees, by extending the attack to those of that alliance who,
amid all their piracies, had yet not violated the commerce of
England.

We might indeed thus separate the Joassmee tribe from the Wahabee,
for we had already, in a formal treaty, recognised them as an inde-
pendant power ; though perhaps for all other purposes, they might be
considered as identified. The strength however of the Joasjnees alone
was very considerable. The ports in their possession contained, ac-

ftur guns, two of sixty, one of fifty, and eighteen from thirty-two to twelve guns ; besides
fmaller, &c. Captain Hamilton, East Indies, i. p. 76. Modern Universal History
vi. 46.

* The first mention of the Wahabees, is in Niebuhr, Description de l'Arabie, p. 17,
p. 296—302: and Gibbon first noticed the singular co-incidence, that they sprung from
the same province, Nedsjed, in which Moseilama the great contemporary adversary of
Mahomed, had propagated his faith, vol. v. p. 277. It may be added, that the Carina-
thians, who triumphed over the Mahomedans, like the Wahabees of the present day, and
like them took Mecca, (and plundered it indeed much more effectually than their succes-
sors are said to have done) in the same manner took possession first of the provinces on
the Persian Gulph. See Gibbon, v. 449. Sale's Koran, p. 184. D'Ohsson, Tableau,
de r&npire Ottoman, torn i, p 105,

ARAB PIRATES.

373

cording to a well -authenticated calculation, in the middle of the year
1809, sixty-three large vessels, and eight hundred and ten of smaller
sizes ; together manned by near nineteen thousand men. This force
was increasing ; the pirates, in a fleet of fifty-five ships, of various sizes,
containing altogether five thousand men, had, after a fight of two days,
taken the Minerva, and murdered almost all the crew : in the next
month a fleet of seventy sail of vessels, (navigated severally by num-
bers rising from eighty to one hundred and fifty and two hundred
men) were cruizing about the Gulph and threatening Bushire : and
the chief of Ras al Khyma (the Roselkeim* of the text, p. 44,) whose
harbour was almost the exclusive resort of the larger vessels, had
dared to demand a tribute from the British government, that their
ships might navigate the Persian Gulph in safety. Our forbearance
was now exhausted, and an expedition was sent from Bombay, under
Captain Wain w right, and Lieutenant-Colonel Smith, of His
Majesty's sea and land forces, to attack the pirates in their ports.
The first object was Ras al Khyma. The armament, after a short
siege, carried the place by storm, destroyed all the naval equipments,
and sparing the smaller vessels, burnt the fifty large ships which the
harbour contained. They proceeded to the ports of the Arab pirates
on the Persian coast, and completed the destruction of all their means
of annoyance. They then attacked Shinass, one of their harbours on
the Indian ocean. The defence of this place was most heroical ; and
was conducted indeed for the Joas?nees, as was subsequently learnt, by
a favourite and confidential general of S a ood Ib n Abdool Uzzeer,
the chief of the Wahabees. When on the third day of the siege, the
few survivors were called upon to surrender, they replied, that they
preferred death to submission ; and when the towers were falling round

* It is not clear that Egmaun is rightly placed in the text, p. 44. Our late expedition
has furnished us with a knowledge of the Persian Gulph, which will rectify many import-
ant errors. The coast from Khor Hassan is said to have been laid down forty-eight miles,
too much to the south.

374

ARAB PIRATES.

them, they returned upon their assailants the hand-grenades and fire--
balls before they could burst. Twice Lieutenant-Colonel Smith
ceased firing, to endeavour to spare the unavailing effusion of their
blood ; till at length, when they were assured of being protected from
the fury of the troops of our ally the Imaum of Muscat, which had
co-operated with us, they surrendered to the English.

The expedition then scoured all the coast a second time, to destroy
any fragments of that pirate power, against which it was directed ;
and extirpated in every quarter all the means of annoyance which the
Joassmees possessed. There was indeed another force of another tribe,
which might eventually grow up into a formidable enemy ; but this was
distinctly under the protection of the JVahabee, who had invested its
chief with the title of Sheik al Behr, or " Lord of the Sea ;" and till
it marked its hostility to us by joining in the attacks upon our com-
merce, it was judged expedient not to confound it in one indiscrimi-
nate warfare ; but rather to open a communication with this particular
chief, and through him to the JVahabee himself, advising the one to
prohibit the piracies of his dependants, and requiring the other to
respect the flag of England. In answer the JVahabee observed, " The
<; cause of the hostilities carrying on between me and the members of
" the faith, is their having turned away from the Book of the Creator,
"and refused to submit to their own prophet Mahomed. It is not
" therefore those of another sect, against whom I wage war, nor do I
" interfere in their hostile operations, nor assist them against any one;
" whilst under the power of the Almighty, I have risen superior to
" all my enemies/' * * * " Under these circumstances, I have
" deemed it necessary to advise you that I shall not approach your
" shores, and have interdicted the followers of the Mahomedan faith
" and their vessels, from offering any molestation to your vessels :
" any of your merchants therefore, who may appear in, or wish to
" come to my ports, will be in security ; and any person on my part
" who may repair to you, ought in like manner to be in safety." * * *
" Be not therefore elated with the conflagration of a few vessels, for

SHAPOUR.

375

u they are of no estimation in my opinion, in that of their owners, or
" of their country. In truth then war is bitter ; and a fool only
" engages in it, as a poet has said/'

The want of timber has always been felt so much by the people of
the two Gulphs, and of the Western coast of the Indian ocean, that a
check on their supplies from the Malabar coast, which Brigadier-
General Malcolm very seasonably suggested, will probably keep
down the future growth of the pirate power. The fleet of the Soldan
of Egypt, which was destined to relieve Diu, was formed of Dalma-
tian timber, transported overland to the arsenals of Suez ;* and even
some of the houses at Siraff, on the Gulph of Persia,f were formed
of European wood. In the seventeenth century, the Arabs of Muscat,
who subsequently formed connections on the Malabar coast to procure
timber, obtained permission from the King of Pegu to build ships in
the ports of his country.:!: If therefore the importation of foreign wood
were cut off, the Arabs could hardly, without extreme difficulty, main-
tain a naval force.

SHAPOUR.

[p. 86.]

The city of Shapour derived its name from the monarch who
founded it,§ Sapor, the son of Artaxerxes, and the second Prince
of the Sassanian family. In his reign it was probably one of the
capitals of Persia ; and for some ages continued to be the chief city
of that district of Persis Proper, which was connected with his name,

* Faria y Sousa, Asia Portuguese by Stevens, vol. i. p. 135.
t See Renaudot's " Anciens Relations."
■% Bruce's Annals of the East India Company, vol. iii. p. 649.
^ Ebn Haukal, p. 82.

376

SHAPOUR.

the Koureh Shapour of Ebn Haukal* The great province in which
it was included, had been particularly favoured by C Vitus, and his
dynasty : it was their native seat, and contained their palaces, their
treasures and their tombs. When their empire was overthrown, this
portion was still administered by a race of native princes,*f- who, after
an interval of five hundred years, revived their pretensions to the throne
of Cyrus,J and re-established in their ancient seats, the religion and
the empire of the Caianian Kings. The Princes of the house of Sassan,
who thus came forth from it as from the cradle of their strength, re-
garded it as the original and favourite appanage of their crown ; and
marked their peculiar connection with it by imposing their names on
its four districts, § a division which, amid all the revolutions of their
dominions, is even yet recognized. || Here, therefore, the revival of
the worship of fire, the great object of their dynasty, was established
more generally and more permanently, than in other parts of their
monarchy ; for in the tenth century, when the Mahomedans had been
three hundred years in possession of Persia, " no town or district of
" Fars was without a fire-temple ;"^[ and the division of Shapour in
particular, contained two at least of the four temples which Ebn
Haukal has particularised in the province.**

In this district accordingly, which was connected with the house of

* Ebn Haukal, p. 89. The Sabura of Golius ad Alfraganium, quoted by
Vincent ; Nearchus, 2d edition, p. 32.0.

+ Strabo, lib. xv. p. 708. In De Sacy, " Memoires sur diverses Antiquities de la
" Perse," 1793, p. 34.

^ Anct. Univ. Hist. xi. 66. Artaxerxes demanded from the Romans the cession of
all the provinces which Cyrus had possessed; but Sapor II. his descendant and suc-
cessor, advanced still higher pretensions, and claimed all the country to the river Sliymo??,
in Macedonia, the original boundary of Darius Hystaspes.

§ Compare however the division of Ebn Haukal, p. 82.

|] Niebuhr says otherwise, torn. ii. p. 166; but Sir Harford Jones, who had better
opportunities of ascertaining the fact, asserts it. Vincent, p. 329, p. 485.

U Ebn Haukal, p. 85.

** Ebn Haukal, p. 95.

SHAPOUR.

Cyrus and of S ass an by so many ties, and in Susiana, which was
alike the favourite of both dynasties, we may expect to find the most
splendid remains of their greatness. Both provinces have been ex-
plored very imperfectly, as travellers have been confined to the regular
road ; and no European has enjoyed those opportunities of observa-
tion and enquiry, which a residence in the country alone can give.
Persepolis itself might probably have been unknown, if it had not been
passed in the line from Shiraz to Ispahan; but the ruins of Pasagarda,*
of Darabgherdy-f and of Jawr,% in Fars ; as well as those of Susa, of
Ahwaz, and of Shooster, in Khuzistan, are almost unknown. The
whole of the plain of Merdasht, the hollow Persis of the ancients, as
well as the part more immediately surrounding Persepolis, contained,
as Chard in believed, a continued succession of ruins; " Je sout-
" haiterois que quelque habile curieux allat passer un ete a Persepolis,
" a la decouverte de toutes les ruines de cette fameuse ville. Les
" gens du pays assurent que ces ruines s'etendent a plus de dix lieues a
" la ronde."§

Shapour itself is an instance of the very limited knowledge of Persia
which we possess, beyond the immediate line of a common route. It
is situated only a very few miles from the road, yet it has been passed
by every traveller from T a vernier and The ve not, down to Scott
Waring, without a suspicion of its present existence. It certainly
retained a share at least, of its political importance after the fall of
the house of Sassan. It contained a mosque as well as a fire-temple,
in the time of Eban Haukal ;|| and probably like other great cities

* Fasa, See the text, p. 233. Pietro della Valle, torn. iii. 333.

+ Darabgherd. See Ebn Haukal, p. 94, p. 133-4. Pietro della Valle, torn,
iii. 336, 571. Tavarnier, i. 395.

X Javr or Firuzabad. See the text, p. 234. Ebn Haukal, p. 101. See Otter, i.
191. Scott Waring was there, p. 106, but passed it with a very slight notice.

§ Chardin, ii. p. 167. Le Brun was at Persepolis for three months ; but he seem*
to have confined himself principally to the ruins of the palace.

% Ebn Haukal, p, 90, p. 95.

378

SHAPOUR.

of the East, suffered less from the first violence of the Arabian invasion,
than from the successive wars of native dynasties, and from the
gradual decay to which the declining population and exhausted wealth
of the empire consigned all the works of their former greatness. Still
Shapour appears to have survived these causes of desolation, and to
have deserved a place among the cities of Asia, at the end of the six-
teenth century, for it occurs in a table of latitudes and longitudes in
the Ayeen Acbaree.* From that time nothing more is known of it :
its position indeed is marked in a map of the year 1672 ;f and its
name, on the authority of Oriental geographers, is repeated by D'An-
ville as the capital of the district. But no European traveller had
described its actual state, or alluded to its history ; and the first account
of those sculptures, which yet render it an object of interest, was con-
veyed to us in a short note, added by Sir Harford Jones from his
own observations, to the second edition of Dr. Vincent's Nearchus,
p. 391.

The Eastern monarchs have often commemorated the great exploits
of their reigns by the foundations of cities. Cyrus is thus said to
have built Pasagai^dce, to celebrate his overthrow of the Median em-
pire; and Artaxerxes, on the spot where he had defeated Arta-
banus, the last King of the Parthians, raised the city of Jawr.%
Succeeding princes of his house, as Baharam§ and Shapour
D'Hulactaf,!! severally raised Kermanshah and Casvin, to immor-
talize particular acts of their history. It is probable therefore that
Shapour the first, who is described by the Orientals as the founder of
great cities,^[ and acknowledged by all to have built Shapour, imposed

* 86° 55' long. 30°. lat. Vol. iii. p. 53.

t " Sehabur" in a map of Persia in Buno's Cluverius, 1672> p. 547.

X EbnHaukal, p. 101.

«, De Sacy, p. 238-9-

\\ Ancient Universal History, xi. 159.

5 Mirrhond in De Sacy, p. 289. See the Ancient Univ. Hist. p. 151. voL.xi

SHAPOUR.

379

his own name upon that which he destined to record the most brilliant
of his successes : and that the city of Shapour accordingly, was the
memorial of the defeat, captivity, and servitude of the Emperor
Valerian.

The architect of such a work would naturally select his ornaments
from the subject in which his plan originated ; and the sculptures at
Shapour might therefore be supposed to contain some prominent allu-
sions to the Roman war. The triumphs of that war are almost unre-
membered in the history or the traditions of the Orientals ; and the
only records of the victories of Sapor, which are left in Persia, are the
sculptures on the rocks of Shapour and Nakshi Rust am : and though,
like every other work, of which nothing is known, they are referred by
the modern Persians to the fabulous exploits of Rust am the Her-
cules of their country, the internal evidence of their design is suffi-
cient to appropriate them to their real and historical objects.

That in fact the triumphs of the house of Sassan, are represented
both at Shapour and at Nakshi Rustam, can hardly be contested.
That in one of the sculptures, the royal figure on horseback is Sapor
himself, and that the Roman suppliant before him is the Emperor
Valerian, is probable almost from the first view of the delineations ;
is strengthened by the history of the spot where they are found;
and is confirmed by the identity of the principal figure here, with
one bearing an inscription in the name of Sapor,* at Nakshi
Rustam.

Such a subject would naturally be suggested to the artists of Sapor,
and while the Roman chariot and standard among the fragments,
and the Roman dress of the suppliant alike mark in the sculpture the
humiliation of Valerian, the Sassanian costume of the Prince on

* The figures are the same, not in detail, but in general circumstance. Both are en-
graved in this volume, plates x. xx. See the explanation of the inscription taken from
Niebuur, torn. ii. pi. xxvii. De Sacy, p. 31, &c. see also p, 69.

3c2

380

SHAPOUR.

horseback, the double diadem, and the very expression of his face.,
(which is that of the medals ascribed to Sapor by Be Sacy,*) concur
in the designation, and supply the figure of the conqueror.

It may appear scarcely necessary to have added one line of explana-
tion, as the internal evidence of the sculpture itself may seem to fix
its history. But De SAcvf has considered all the subjects at Nakshi
Rustam, and consequently their duplicates at Shapour, as representing
one subject only, the conquest of the Parthians by Artaxerxes : and
on this theory he has regarded the suppliant as Artabanus, the last
King of the Parthians, and the victor as Artaxerxes. It is due to
such a man as De Sacy, to differ from him with hesitation, and to
state the grounds of difference fully. The engravings of Chardi*,
Le Brun, and Niebuhr, which alone were before De Sacy, are so
entirely unworthy of the originals, that the conclusion to which he
was led was almost unavoidable; but if he, who has done so much
with imperfect materials, had enjoyed the opportunity of examining the
full and characteristic distinctions preserved in Mr. Morier's Sketches,
he would have separated the subjects of the sculptures, into those
which commemorate the Parthian victories of Artaxerxes, and
those which were similarly destined to immortalise the Roman triumphs
of Sapor.

The Plate, No. X. may be assumed then to represent Sapor in the
act of receiving the submission of Valerian ; and that marked
No. XIX. to display him in his triumphal splendour. The fragments,
No. XII. contain some of his Roman spoils ; and the head to which'

on? m • ' m SUUe t0 his " Mem ° ire SUr les Medailles des Sassanides,"

p. 803-10, assigns all the medals on Plate VI. to Sapor II. and those on Plate VIII to
feAPOR III. but the resemblance is so strong, (particularly in No. 3. of Plate VI.) between
the figure on the coin, and that in the sculpture No. X. that the identity can hardly be
doubted; and that the figure in the sculpture is Sapor I. may be inferred from the in-
scription at Nakshi Rustum, as well as from the general history.

t « Si l'on compare tous ces bas-reliefs, on sera porte a conjecturer qu'ils ne doivent

avoir tous qu'un mcrae objet." De Sacy, p. 66 ; see p. 69.

SHAPOUR.

381

the text alludes, page 89, in describing the hall of audience of a great
King, is possibly that of Chosroes, King of Armenia* who was
murdered by Sapor, after an unavailing war of thirty years; and
whose fall therefore may be commemorated as an object of importance
in the series of the exploits of Sapor.

The Plates No. XV.+ and No. XIX. though probably from the
works of the same sculptor as the last, record the events of an earlier
date; and delineate in different views the contest for the crown of
Persia, which was waged between the last of the Parthian monarchs
and Arta xerxes, the founder of the house of Sassan. Of this
history, as it is connected with the sculptures at Shapour and Nakski
Rust am, it is sufficient to observe that, according to an inscription on
the spot, explained and confirmed by De Sacy, J Artaxerxes was
the son of Babec, the Satrap, or perhaps the hereditary Prince of
Persis Proper, under the empire of the Arsaces. — Artaxerxes was
the grandson of Sassan ;§ from whom, rather than from himself, his
dynasty, like that of the Seljukians from the grandfather of their
founder, || has been denominated. Others on the contrary, as the
Lubb al Tarikh in De SACY,f and the authorities on which Sir Wm.
Jones relied,** assume S ass an a shepherd, to be his father by the
daughter of Babec : and others again expand the whole genealogy
into romance. -f-f- VaillantJJ lavishes on Artaxerxes and his
birth, all the bitterness of reproach ; " infimse sortis vir, sordidissimo
" loco natus, sceleratus, injustissimus." So regularly however has

* Gibbon, i. 326, 4to.

+ A fac-simile at Nakshi Rustam, p. 125-6, of that subject already noticed at Shapour.

$ P. 30, &c.

§ De Sacy, p. 167. Ancient Universal History, xi. p. 146.

|| Gibbon, vol. v. p. 654. Modern Univ. Hist. iv. p. 79.

f P. 32. See th£ Ancient Universal History, vol. xi.

** History of Persia : Works, vol. v. p. 600.

+t De Sacy, p. 32-3

$ Vaillant, pref. p. vii. 389,

382

SHAPOUR.

this reproach followed success, that half the Eastern conquerors, as
the Bouide sultans, the house of Togrul Shah, Genghiz,Timur, the
Othman race, &c. have in their turns been represented as springing
from the lowest origin ; and a story, almost the same indeed ^s that
attached to the birth of Cyrus, has been recorded of Artaxerxes,
and forms a new point of resemblance in their history.*

That, however, the father of Sapor was not a man of very obscure
descent, may be inferred from the silence of Moses of Chorona, who in
the ninth or tenth century appears as the partizan of the Arsacides;
as well as from the positive assertion in the inscription^ at Nakshi
Rust am, that he was the son of a king ; an assertion which might have
been safely made in his name in a distant age, but which would
hardly have been hazarded by himself in a public and triumphal
record, if its fallacy had been familiar to all his contemporaries.

He assumed also in his own name, and that of his father, the divinity
which had been attached to their Kings by the ancient Persians, and
which was continued by the Parthian monarchs. The royalty how-
ever claimed by Artaxerxes in the inscription, was certainly
limited to his own native Persis, which in fact was always included in
the dominions of the Parthian Kings ; though the immediate rule may
have been resigned to a descendant of the Caianian family. The pro-
vinces of the monarchy were administered by eighteen Satraps, to
whom the Parthian Kings, like the Moguls, had gradually resigned
almost all the power of the empire ; and who, to justify in their nomi-
nal superior, the title of the King of Kings, severally assumed the regal
dignity themselves : as in the polity of modern Persia, according to
Niebuhr,J inferior officers are called Khans and Sultans, titles of

* Mirkhond in Db Sacy, p. 275. Ancient Universal History, xi. 14G.
t De Sacy, p. SO, &c. u»o? fog 7r»7raxou |3a<rtA£w?. See Moses of Chorons:, quoted
in De Sacy, p. 168.
| Niebuhr, ii. p. 83.

SHAPOUR.

383

Majesty in other countries, to exalt the predominant power of their
universal ruler, the Padishah Buzurk.

Artaxerxes, like many other founders of Eastern dynasties
Genghiz,* Timur,^ Nadir Shah,;]: might ground his rebellion
on the plausible pretext of the ingratitude of his sovereign ; but while
he supplanted the Arsacides in the empire, he recognised their
superior interest in the affections of the people; and assumed their
epoch, their language, and their name ;§ that his subjects might regard
themselves rather as transferred to a different heir, than as subjugated
to a new and unconnected race of conquerors. He accordingly styles
himself Arsaces, in the coin preserved by Vaillant, and destined
probably for the Western and Mesopotamian provinces: and Sapor
continued the designation, though in the coins circulated in the
Eastern Persia, which De Sacy|| has decyphered, both Princes con-
firm to the corresponding genius of the country, relinquish the Greek
and restore the native language, revive the symbols of the worship of
fire, and connect themselves there also with the original prejudices of
the people.

Possibly the title thus adopted by the first Princes of the Sassa-
nides, was retained even to the middle of the fourth century; for
Ammianus Marcellinus describes the family on the throne of
Persia as Arsacides ;^[ an assertion which Gibbon seems to contra-
dict as very careless and inaccurate, but which may perhaps be
reconciled with the truth of history, by supposing, that even when the
ancient line of the Parthian Kings had ceased to reign for more than
one hundred years, the house of Sassan retained their title of

* Petit de la Croix, p. 37.

+ Institutes, p. 25, 27.

% Frazer's Life, p. 81. of Artaxerxes, see Gibbon, vol.i. p. 201, 4to,

«j Vaillant.

j| De Sacy, Memoire surles Medailles des Sassanides, p. 166.

5 In Gibbon, vol. i. p. 238,

384

SHAPOUR.

Arsaces, which still favoured the national pride of a great part of
their people, and which was connected so long and so gloriously with
the general history of the empire.

All the details of these sculptures confirm their history, but it is
scarcely necessary to do more than allude to them. The lion held by a
chain in one of the scenes at Shapour, may be emblematical of a con-
quered nation ; or perhaps the literal historical representation of a
real auxiliary in the warfare of the Parthians ;*

" Et validos Parthi prae se misere liones,

" Cum ductoribus armatis, soevisque magistris."

Brissonius however adds to this quotation the question, " Sed
" quis veritatem a poeta ut ab historico exigit ?"f Notwithstanding
however the incredulity thus implied, and the ridicule of Luc i an,
who describes the Parthians as using dragons for the same purpose ;%
it is possible that this sculpture may be admitted as evidence of
the fact.

The dress of the royal characters may be similarly illustrated ; the
turreted tiara of Artabanus, is perhaps the nx^a mvpyurov described
by Strabo§; the tiara of Artaxerxes, which extends over the
cheeks, is thus mentioned by Juvenal,|| and thus represented in the
medals of Vaillant and De Sacy. The exuberant hair of Sapor
is likewise an historical fact : it was indeed the costume of the house
of Arsaces as well as of Sapor. This might be learnt from their
coins, but it is more familiar from the allusion of Vespasian, when he

* Lucretius, lib. v. These references are taken from Brissonius, " De Regio
" Persarum Apparatu." Edit. Lederlini, 1710.
t Brissonius, p. 732.
£ Lucian, in Brissonius.
(j Strabo, lib. xv.
H Juvenal, Sat. vi.

SHAPOUR.

385

replied that the comet was not ominous to him, but regarded rather
the King of the Persians, " cui capillus effusior."*

The diadem of Persia was distinct from the tiara, and was itself
" quod omnibus notum non est/' said Brissonius, p. 68, " nihil aliud
" quam Candida fascia, qua Regum frons precingebatur." This he
proves from Lucian; but more decisively by the story of Favorinus,
who, when Pompey bound his leg up with a fillet, said, " it mattered
" not on which part of the body he bore the diadem/' Many of the
royal customs of ancient Persia are still observed in Abyssinia, as
Bruce has collected them; and the fillet is still worn as the diadem.
The ring then to which the text alludes, and which is described as such
by Niebuhr,J is certainly as De Sacy observed, § the diadem of
the disputed empire. In the coins of the Arsacides, this diadem,-^
with flowing rediinicula, recurs frequently as presented to the
sovereign by the genius of a city,|| a Pallas ,f or a Victoriola ; **
and in the Creek coins which the two first Princes of the Sassanides
struck for their Mesopotamian provinces, the same diadem is offered
to them.-f-f It is probable therefore that the object extended over
Sapor, by the figure in the air, is the same wreath or diadem, which in
his coins he is receiving; a Grecian image, which was perhaps
adopted by the Parthian monarchs from the Seleucidae, whom
they succeeded, and descended through the Arsacidae to Artax-
erxes and his son.

This image is therefore not sufficient to assign the work to Grecian
hands : the classical merit however of the whole sculptures renders it

* Suetonius, in Brissonius, p. 82.
t Bruce, vol. iii. p. 267, 276.

% Niebuhr, torn. ii. p. 98-134. Persepolis and Nakshi Rustam, &c.
§ De Stucy, p. 67.

J) Vaillant, « Arsacidarum Imperium," p. 361, p. 366.

1 Pallas " Peculiaris dea Macedonum Pallas," p. 8. to Arsaces I. again, p. 16,
** Victoriola to Artabanus I. p. 31.
tt ToArtaxerxes, p. 391, to Sapor, p. 394.

386

SHAPOUR.

probable that they were executed by European artists, whom Sapor
may have taken in the train of Valerian, or those whom in his inva-
sion of Asia Minor, he may have carried off into the heart of his own
empire. Possibly by a refinement of cruelty he may have consigned
the erection of this memorial of their warfare, to his captive Vale-
ria n ; for a tradition at Shooster attributes to that monarch the su-
perin tendance of Sapor's other works at that city, and the construc-
tion of the edifice there, which was destined for his own prison.

Gib on,* as Milner has observed ,-j- is perhaps the only author
who ever doubted the nature of the treatment which Valerian expe-
rienced from Sapor. Less prejudiced minds might have drawn from
the fact, that these cruelties are noticed in a speech of the Emperor
Galerius, to the Persian Embassadors, X the better inference, that
almost in the very days of their execution, the perpetration of these
indignities was known to all the Roman world ; and those who recol-
lect the opportunities of knowing the Christian character which Vale-
»ian enjoyed, and the disgraces which crowded round him, when
against that knowledge he persecuted the Christians, may admit the
providential interposition of the Almighty in thus vindicating his
own cause on the oppressor, and in reversing a light and a prosperity so
abused.

Sapor is said to have placed his foot on the neck of Valerian
when he mounted his horse, and after a long captivity to have flayed
him alive. This treatment, however it may differ from the conduct
which a European conqueror might display to his captive, is not
sufficient to discredit the story ; and might be paralleled, in ignominy
at least, by many instances in the East. Genghiz Khan threw

* Vol. i. p. 331, 4to.

+ Milner's History of the Church of Christ, vol. i. p. 427. p. 445. p. 478-9. Vale-
si an was destroyed by the treachery of Maori anus, (Gibbon i. 327) the very man, at
whose instigation he had perverted his power to persecute the Christians.

% Gibbon himself records this speech, vol. 1. p. 451.

SHAPOUR.

387

the victuals from his table even to a woman, a captive queen, the
proudest monarch whom he had conquered* The Carmathian
Prince who advanced against Bagdad, tied the Lieutenant of the
Caliph Moctadi with his dogs :f and the iron cage of Timour,
(which is doubted, only because Timour docs not himself record it)
is a familiar illustration ; of which the idea was not confined to that in-
stance, for Badur, King of Cambay, prepared a cage to convey one
of the Portuguese heroes to the Great Turk.J But there is a nearer
precedent : the Persian monarchs have the unrivalled honour of alone
taking two Roman Emperors; and Alp Arslan, who enjoyed the
fortune of Sapor, remembered perhaps his treatment of his prisoner;
and though in his subsequent conduct he resembles our own Black
Prince, and forms a striking contrast to the sequel of Sapor's conduct,
yet, when his captive first appeared before him, he is said to have
planted his foot o»n the neck of the Emperor.^

The dynasty o,f the Sassanides, though the commencement of the
historical age of Persia ;|| and as such comparatively less obscure in
Oriental writers, than the preceding period,^[ is yet, as D'Herbelot
remarked,** involved in great difficulties. The darkness of the inter-
mediate age from the death of Alexander to the accession of the
house of Arsaces, and through the greatness of the Parthian empire,
is confined principally to the East ; and from the hereditary connection
of the Seleucidje, and their successors with the Greeks of Asia, is

* Petit de la Croix, Life of Genghiz, p. 976.
t Gibbon, vol. v. 4to. p. 451.

% A.D. 1537. Faria " Asia Portuguesa" by Stevens, vol. i. p. 405.
§ Gibbon, vol. v. p. 664.

|| De Sacy, pref. p. v. De Guignes. MSS. of the King of France, ii.
English Edit. Gibbon, i. 4to. p. 256.

H Ancient Universal History, vol. xi. p. 142, &c.
** D'Herbelot, inSirWM. Ouselev's Epitome.

3 D 2

p. 140.

c388

SHAPOUR.

relieved by the Western authorities, whose testimonies have been*
collected with so much research by Vaillant, and confirmed by the
medals of the Arsacidte. But this light is lost in the middle of the
third century ; nor perhaps could a more difficult portion of ancient
history be selected than the succeeding dynasty, a period nevertheless
probably the most brilliant, in the foreign relations of Persia, of any
since the extinction of the sovereignty of Darius, and at the same
time the most fortunate in the internal prosperity and resources of the
empire. The task was suggested to Vaillant,* who had so ably
executed the Parthian annals, but he resigned it to the adviser, and it
was left undone.

The deficiencies of European materials are not supplied by Oriental
authorities. The value of the Mahomedan accounts of ancient Persia,
maybe estimated by their omission of the success of Sapor, the most
splendid in the whole period of which they treat. Gibbon -f has
already remarked from D'Herbelot, that the modern Persians
know nothing of the capture of a Roman Emperor ; and it may be
added, that though it appears from Mr. Morier, p. 201, that a
Persian of the present day was acquainted with the event, yet neither
Mirkhond,:]: nor Khondemir,§ nor the Tarikh published by Sir
Wm. Ouseley, allude to it. Whatever then may be the deficiencies
or even the contradictions of the Greek historians in writing on the
affairs of Persia, they are still probably the best authorities on which we
can rely. The contemporary classics possess no one disadvantage, which
is not shared by the later Mahomedans ; they are alike writing on the
history of a people, whom the Greeks hated as enemies, and whom the
Mussulmans despised as infidels, and whose language was probably

* Vaillant, Arsac: Imperium, p. 389.

+ Gibbon, vol. i. 4to. p. 331.

| Mirkhond, in De Sacy, p. 282-90.

S Khondemir, in Ancient Universal History, vol. xi. p. 151.

SHAPOUR,

389

equally unknown to both ; but to the Greek authors these defects
were in a certain degree qualified by their comparative nearness to the
events which they recorded ; while the Mussulmans, in treating of the
history before the time of Mahomed, were writing the annals of a
conquered and contemned race, in an age when its language, polity,
and religion were alike forgotten. It is therefore astonishing that
De Sacy should have selected Mirkhond, an author of this class, to
accompany his own able memoirs on the antiquities of Persia. What-
ever may be the relative superiority of Mirkhond to other Oriental
annalists, the value of his authority is in itself very low, and is suffi-
ciently depreciated by the internal evidence of his own work. He
begins his account of the Sassanian kings by saying that the Messiah
was born in the reign of Ardeshir or Artaxerxes, the first Prince of
that house, whose reign which did not commence till the two hundred
and twenty-sixth year after Christ* He continues, that Ardeshir
received a message from the Messiah, and secretly professed his
religion. Independently of the gross fabulousness of the chronology,
the story itself is totally abhorrent to every other evidence, by which it
is clear that Ardeshir, so far from professing or favouring a foreign
religion, regarded the revival of the native worship as the glory of his
reign ; and combined in one re-establishment the religion and the
empire of ancient Persia.-f-

The idle tale of the birth of his son Sapor, J is another proof of the
manner in which the imagination of an Eastern historian has supplied
the defects of his materials ; if indeed it be not derived from the
story of Astyages in Herodotus. Without discussing the proba-
bility of the fact or the accuracy of the chronology, it is impossible to

* Mirkhond, in De Sacy, p. 273.

+ De Sacy, p. 42. A. C. 220, according to Vaillant : Tab. Chronol,

J Mirkhond, p. 282-6.

390

SHAPOUR.

conceive that an author could learn so much without knowing more ;
and that at the interval of one thousand two hundred years he could
have ascertained the most private history of an Eastern Prince, when
he is ignorant of his public exploits; or that he could have given a
genuine account of Sapor from his birth to his death, when he never
once alludes to the Romans, or notices, however transiently, the most
celebrated event in the life of his hero, and in the history of his
country.

a
(.(.
a
a
a
a
«
a

a
a
a

SECOND VISIT TO SHAPOUR,

APRIL, 1811.

" We proceeded over the plain to the Southward and Westward,
to see what a peasant called the Kaleh or Castle, and the Mesjed
or Mosque, which are large conspicuous buildings seen from
almost all parts of the plain. These we found to be Moham-
medan structures, excepting part of an ancient wall or buttress,
and a column, with a square fallen capital, that are to be seen
in the former, and of the same age as the edifices at Shapour. In
the square of this ruined castle we found some little black tents
of the wandering tribes ; from the good folks of which we got
some dong or butter-milk, of which they drink large quantities
at this season. We surprised them by asking them if they had
any Poul Kadeim or ancient money ; to which they answered,
very ingenuously, that they had neither new nor old. The fact
is, that old coins are more frequently found amongst these sort
of people than amongst any other; for if they find any, the
favourite wife generally has them suspended with her other trinkets,
in a necklace around her neck. When old coins or money out

SHAPOUR.

391

of use fall into the hands of town's people, traders, shopkeepers,
or such like, they generally melt it down immediately, and get
it recoined. In all our researches for old coins, we have been
unsuccessful, and it has only been by the greatest chance that we
have now and then got a Sassanian or an Arsacian medal. A man
brought what he called a collection of old coins to the Embassador :
they consisted of a Reaal of the age of Shah Abbas, a Cuffic piece
of money, a gold coin of the worst time of the middle ages, and an
English halfpenny."

NOTES.

Chatters, p. 37. — TlIE Shotters of Fryer; the Shatirs ofHANWAY. Chardin gives a
long and curious account of a display, which he calls " la fete du Chater, ou valet du pied
" au Roi." Voyages, torn. ii. 46, edit. 1711. The King's Chafers dVessed richly but differ-
ently, (car en Perse on ne sait ce que c'est de Livree,) were the masters of the feast.
Those who are superior in their profession can dance well ; an occupation indeed which, in
the East, is considered so little suitable to persons of a higher rank and character, that a
Persian who was in Paris in the minority of Louis XIV. and saw the young King dancing,
exclaimed, "c'est un excellent Chater." The prize of the exploit recorded by ChaRDtN,
was the honour of being admitted the chief of the Chafers of the royal household ; and the
effort was, between the rising and the setting of the sun, to take up twelve arrows
singly from a tower at the distance of a league and a half (French), and return with each to
the place of starting : in this manner the Chater run thirty-six leagues in fourteen hours.
Nevertheless, says Chardin, this was not equal to a feat still remembered, in which the
twelve arrows were taken up in twelve hours. T a vernier was present at the greater
performance to which Chardin alludes. See his voyages, torn. i. p. 438-40.

Geography of Persia, p. 48. — Olivier (torn. v. c. vii.) describes Persia as a great
table-land, supported on every side by high mountains. The space thus enclosed is a
depressed level, as the courses of the rivers prove ; which, according to a former remark of
of D'An ville, never penetrate through the mountains to the sea, but stagnate or evaporate
in deserts of sand. (Vincent's Nearehus.) Still its absolute elevation is very great:
at Shireizy in 29° 36', there is much snow in January and February, though it is half a
degree more to the south than Cairo; and Ispahan is too cold for the orange tree, though
it grows well at Mossul, four degrees more to the north, and twice as far from the sea :
and in Mazandcran, which is in a much higher latitude, but on a level considerably below
the table land of Persia, the sugar cane, which will not grow at Shiraz, comes to maturity

394

NOTES.

four months sooner than in the West Indies, Olivier, torn. v. p. 218, 233. On the capa-
bility of Persia to supply Russia with sugar and cotton, see Olivier, p. 336.

Grampus, possibly the whale of Arm an, p. 50.] — The whales in the Indian ocean have
been celebrated from the time of Pliny; and Sir Harford Jones, in a note to Vin-
cent's Nearchus, mentions them high up in the Persian Gulph : it is probable there-
fore that the bones, of which the houses on the coast were constructed, were those of
real whales.

Kharrack, p. 52.] — The island of Kharrack at one time excited considerable interest ;
when it was seized and fortified by the Baron Kniphausen. The motives of his enterprise
are very unimportant, although it may be added, that the heroical character in which he
appears in Ives, as the founder of a new settlement, is somewhat reduced in the " Free
" Merchants' Letters," of Joseph Price, p. 172. It is sufficient that even in its first
days this colony was dependant on a neighbouring island (Corgo), and the main land of
Persia for its provisions. Niebuhr indeed relates the singular and fatal stratagem con-
nected with this supply. The Sheik of Bushire, who furnished these necessaries to
Kharrack* was at war with the Sheik of Bunder-righ, and as the Dutch were alike involved
in the hostilities, the communications between the island and Bushirc were often carried
on by night. The Sheik of Bushire profited by this circumstance ; and putting poultry into
two armed ships, sent them against two galvettes, laid up under the walls of the citadel :
" A l'approche de l'isle on secuoit les cages pour faire crier les poules, et la sentinelle
" Hollandoise entandant ces cris de la volaille crut que c'etoit les vaisseaux d'Abu
" schahr (Bushire), and qu'il etoit inutile d'eveiller les autres matelots." Descr. del
Arabia, p. 280. This success was soon followed up, and the Dutch were expelled from
the island. Ives recommended to our government the possession of Kharrack. Voyage,
p. 226: but independently of the precariousness of its supplies, Niebuhr mentions the
mortality among the Europeans there, though he adds indeed, that they died " moins pas
" l'air mal sain de l'isle, que pas leur maniere de vivre," p. 281. It was an early object of
the French government. By a treaty signed at Paris, and negociated by M. Pyrault at
Bassora, Ke rim Khan, the Regent of Persia, engaged to cede Kharrack; but, the sup-
pression of the French East India Company intervened, and the object was neglected. It
was again surrendered by the treaty of 1808, and in the intermediate time, when he was
himself sent by the Directory as a secret agent, Olivier observes, that the Persian
government would have repeated the cession. His conclusion is remarkable ; the object
would have been advantageous to us, says he, " si nous avions voulu serieusement nous
" etablir en Egypte ; si de la nous avions voulu porter nos vues de commerce sur le golfe
" Persique, sur Bassora, sur Bagdad; si nous avions voulu reprendre un commerce actif
,,( avec l'lnde; si nous avions voulu ouvrir des communications entre l'isle de France,
u Mascate, and Bassora." Tom. v. p. 157.

Ormuz, p. 52.]— When Olivier, was in Persia, the Imaum of Muscat was negotiating
3

■I

NOTES.

395

with the Persian government the cession of Ormuz to him. Tom. v. p. 157. That island
as well as Gombroon, is now in his possession; though he accounts for the customs to the
King of Persia,

Pearls, p. 55.] — A belief in the influence of the rain on the formation of pearls, which
Niebuhr mentions as prevalent among the Arabs in his own days, (Descr. de l'Arabie)
and among their ancestors in the time of Benjamin of Tudela, six hundred years ago, may
be traced up clearly to the time of Pliny, if not much earlier. (Lib. ix. c. xxxv. see
c. li. and the note from Aristotle.) The Apologue of Sadi is a beautiful illustration
of the Eastern opinion. Bruce says, " it is observed that pearls are always the most
" beautiful in those places of the sea, where a quantity of fresh water falls. Thus in the
«' Red Sea," &c. (vol. v. p. 226, app.) and it may be added, though the facts prove little
without knowing the relative positions, that Bahrein, one of the most fertile pearl banks
in the world, is likewise celebrated for the most extensive submarine springs of fresh
water. See on those springs, Ives's Voyage. Niebuhr, p. 286. See also Teixeira
in Mod. Univ. Hist. vi. 80. Hole in his curious illustration ofSiNDBAD, regards these
springs as the origin of " the river of fresh water that issued from the sea." Sixth Voyage.

Horses, Src. p. 63.~] — The custom of tying horses by the leg in the stable, is traced in
Persia even to the time of Xenophon. Anab. lib. iii. c. 245. At the introduction of the
Russian Embassador to Shah Hussein, the horses of the King of Persia were dis-
played in state as the procession passed : " they were all tied to a rope fixed to the ground
" at the extremities by a stake of gold, near which lay a mallet of the same metal for
" driving it. According to the custom of Persia the hind feet also were fastened to a rope,
w to prevent kicking." Bell, vol. i. p. 100.

Elauts, p. 77.] — The wandering tribes have in every age constituted a consider-
able portion of the population of the Persian and Turkish Empires. In Asia
Minor they are called Turcomans; in Assyria and Armenia, Curds; in Irak and Fars,
Elauts ; the Vloches of Herbert, p. 129, (by some considered the Eluths or Oigurs.J
Their general character is the same ; and they have continued to follow the same heredi-
tary occupations with unbroken regularity. Ebn Haukal estimates the numbers included
in their zems or tribes in Fars alone at five hundred thousand families, p. S3.

Lion on the tomb, at Derees, p. 85; see also, p. 94, &c] — On the meaning of such an em-
blem, see Niebuhr's Doubt in his chapter on Shiraz, torn. ii.

Bazar-a- Vakeel, p. 100.] — Scott Waring reckons the length of this great work of
Kerim Khan, at half a mile! Franklin, at a quarter of a mile, p. 58$ and a later
authority at between seven and eight hundred yards.

3 e 2

396

NOTES.

P. 104.]— The Story of Cheik Chenan, may remind the reader of the Lay of
Aristote.

The Bend-emir, p. 124.] — The Prince, from whose dyke thrown across it, the Bend-
emir is asserted to have taken its name, is sometimes said to be Emir Azad a Dowlah
one of the Buiya Sultans; and as the river occurs in the route of Barbaro, 1472, within
seventy years after the reign of Timur, as the " Bindamyr," it is probable that it acquired
that name from the earlier Prince. On the word Bund, see a note in Vincent's Periplus,
p. 157; and Moor's Female Infanticide, p. 110, &c.

Persepolis, p. 129.] — The first account of Chehel Minor, that was brought to Europe
after the revival of learning, occurs in the travels of Josaphat Barbaro, Embassador
from the State of Venice to the Prince whom he calls Assambbi, (who may be recognised
indeed as the " Usan Cassanes," " of some called Asymbeius," in Knolles, p. 409;)
but who is better known as the Uzun Hassan or Cassan of D Herbelot. The rarity of
the volume in which these travels are contained may justify the insertion of an extract.
Aldus, 1543. Josaphat Barbaro does not suspect that he is describing the Persepolis
of the Classics; and labours therefore to find in the sculptures at Chehil Minor, something
which may rather accord with the Hebrew origin assigned to it by one of the traditions of
the country. In the bridge leading over the Bend-emir he had already discovered a work
of Solomon; and he proceeds to point out, among the representations on the rocks, the
figure of Solomon himself. Again, instead of Rustam, the Hercules of Persia, or
rather instead of the real heroes, Artaxerxes and Sapor, whom that name has sup-
planted at Persepolis, Josaphat Barbaro perceives in a colossal image on horseback,
the figure of Samson. The being in the air, which some have conceived to be the soul of
a departed monarch, and which recurs in the engravings of the tombs by Le Brun and
Chardin, is thus described : " Sopra di tutte e una figura simile a quelle nostre che
<{ noi figuriamo Dio padre in uno tondo ; laqual ha uno tondo per raano, e sotto laqual
Ci sono altre figure piccole," fol. 51.6. He continues ; among the lesser figures there is one,
who has on his head a Pope's mitre, " una mitria di Papa ;" and has his hands extended,
apparently as if he would give his benediction to those beneath him, who are looking up
to him in fixed expectation of the said blessing. Near Samson are several other figures
dressed in the French mode, " alia Francese," and having longhair. M. I. The descrip-
tion is curious, and characteristic of the age; but even in the seventeenth century,
Tavern i er in the same manner fancied that he saw in the Sassanian sculptures at Ker-
manshah, priests, surplices, and censers, torn. i. 316. This indeed was almost the earliest
account that had been given of the spot ; and therefore, this error is more excusable.
But now, when so much has been written on the subject, (whether the sculptures be the
works of Semihamis or of the Sassanian Kings?) and more particularly when De Sacy
has definitively proved by the inscriptions, that the figures are connected with the history
of the latter Princes of the house of Sassan ; we may be surprised that M. de Gardanne

Mtitf fctiMittfe^^tti

NOTES.

397

should have overlooked their design ; and instead of recognising an object that had been
illustrated by his countryman with so much learning, should pass it in his journal with the
single remark : " Plus loin sur un rocher eleve, on voit une croix et les douze Apotret
sculptes." p. 83.

Every nation has some proverbial expression of number, and " forty" seems popular in the
East. Thus the palace of Ispahan is the Chehil Sitoon / and another built in imitation of
it, at Moorshedabad, is called by the same name. Seir Mutagherin, i. 301. Chehil minar
therefore signifies an indefinite number of pillars, whether more or less than forty ; but
even with all the allowance, which this expression may require, it is probable that in the
time of Sadi, six hundred years ago, the pillars standing at Persepolis amounted really to
forty. Chardin, torn. iii. 138. The remains at Persepolis are designated by another still
more comprehensive form, " Hazar Sitoon" the one thousand columns. De Sacy,
p. 1. If the fragment engraved in the Archceologia, from the original transmitted by
Richard Strachey, Esq. to his father, be really of the size of that original, as the notice
affirms, and if it formed part of the series of sculptures, we may thence learn the average
proportions of the subjects at Persepolis. Archceol. xiv. app. 282. But Le Brun sent
over an entire figure from the reliefs ; see the close of his work.

Ispahan, p. 159.]— Ispahan had been for ages one of the greatest cities of the East, and
was possibly the Aspa and Aspadana of the ancients. In 1472 it contained one hundred
and fifty thousand souls ; a number which, according to Barbaro, was but the sixth of
its former population. It had declined in political importance till Shah Abbas trans-
ferred thither the seat of Empire from Casvin. It rose rapidly to a second greatness : in
extent it almost covered the plain. It was itself twenty-four miles in circumference, and
according to Chardin, " a dix lieues a la ronde, on comptait quinze cents villages."
Tom. iii. 83. Chardin thought its population equal to that of London, and fixed it at
six hundred thousand souls. T a vernier, almost at the same time, comparing it with
Paris, says, it has but one-tenth of the population. (See on the relative population of
Paris, London, and Rhages, Sir Wm. Petty's Essay.) Tavernier is clearly wrong,
and certainly much more inaccurate than the other extreme of one million and one
hundred thousand, stated by the European merchants in Ispahan. Yet there is an error
probably in both the larger estimates. The number of houses in Chardin's estimate is
a fixed standard, thirty-eight thousand : at fifteen in a house, the amount would not equal
tlie population which he assigns as the lowest number; and it would require more than
twenty-eight in a house, to justify the larger calculation. Olivier indeed remarks on
another occasion, torn. v. 163, that " on doint compter en Perse au moins 7 ou 8
" Persans par maisons;" but though this is much higher than the average of Europe, and
much higher than Mr. Morier has calculated throughout his travels, (with the single
exception of Bushire), it will not give much above half the estimate of Chardin. It may
perhaps be observed that the numbers in Ispahan during the Affghan siege, and which are
variously stated from seven hundred thousand to a million, will confirm the general
accuracy of the former statement ; but it should be recollected, that the amount on that

NOTES.

occasion was swelled by the fugitives from the whole country. Olivier reckoned the
inhabitants of Ispahan in his days at fifty thousand; its habitable circumference was
reduced to a diameter of two miles ; and he was riding for half an hour through the ruins
which surrounded it. Tom. v. 175, 179. Gardanne hears that the ruins extend for
a march of more than four hours, p. 70. A later statement indeed gives the present
population at two hundred and fifty thousand. But even in the decay in which Olivier
found it, it retained sufficient evidences of original greatness to excite the liveliest sensa-
tions : " Tout ce que nous vimes, tout ce qu'on nous dit, tout ce que nous supposames
" nous en donna la plus grande idee : tout nous persuada qu'elle fut sous les Sophis une
" des plus belles, des plus riches, des plus peuplces de l'Asie." P. 180.

Shah Abbas drinking zoine,p. 165.] — Gibbon says, that " in every age the wines of
" Shiraz have triumphed over the laws of Mahomed." In fact however, the use of
spirituous liquors in general has depended, in Persia as in Turkey and other Mahomedan
countries, less on the precepts of the Koran, than on the will and character of the reigning
Prince. Pietro della Valle gives a curious account of the alternations in the use of
inebriating liquors, which the difference in the individual habits of the Sovereign produced
in his day in the court of Persia : and Tournefort remarks the same effect in Georgia;
** of all nations the greatest wine drinkers." Tom. ii. lettre vi. Eastern monarchs indeed,
in this as in other points, have considered themselves unfettered by the prohibitions of the
Koran: "Kings are subject fo no law;"—" Whatever they do, they commit no sin,"
were the maxims by which Shah Hussein, the last of the Seffis, was seduced into
drunkenness. (Mod. Univ. Hist. vi. p. 22.) The exclusive prerogatives of an absolute
Prince were, however, best exemplified in Hindostan. Jehangeer, as we learn from his
own commentaries, was accustomed to drink of the strongest spirits, a quantity equal in
weight to ten seers a day ; while (as Peter the Great, and the rising Peter of the
South Seas, Tamahama, in Turn bull's Voyage, have done since) he issued as a standing
regulation of his government, an order for the prohibition of spirituous liquors, and every
thing else of an intoxicating nature, throughout the whole kingdom, " notwithstanding
" that I had myself," he adds, " from the age of eighteen to thirty-eight, been constantly
" addicted to them." Extracts by James Anderson, from the Toozuke Jehangeer, Asiat.
Miscell. vol. ii. p. 77. To evade the prohibition of wine, the Orientals have had recourse
to compositions infinitely more inebriating: these are "the mixed wine," " the strong
"drink mingled of the Scriptures;" see Lowth's Isaiah, p. 12-13, p. 231, &c. See a
Chapter of K^empfer, fasc. iii. obs. 15. The liquor thus substituted in Persia is the
Cocnos of Della Valle. Abbas the First, when he drank wine, drank it as in the text,
publicly: for a purpose, as a contemporary traveller observes, like that of Agathocles
in Diodorus of discovering the real character of his guests. Della Valle, torn. ii.
341. See the entertainment in Herbert, p. 171: "Most friendly Abbas puld our
" Ambassador downe, seated him close to his side, smiling to see he could not sett (after
" the Asiatique sort) crosse-legd, and calling for a bowl of wine, dronke his Master's
« health, at which the Ambassador uncoverd his head ; and to complement beyond all

NOTES.

399

"expectation the Potshaugh," (the Padishah) " puld of his turbant; by discovering his
" bald head, symbolising his affection ; and after an houres merriment departed." This
object of Abbas was again similarly attempted by Shah Suleyman. Mod. Univ. Hist,
vol. vi. 16. Shah Seffi in a caprice chose to prohibit tobacco, and executed two
foreign merchants for disobeying the order, as Sultan Murad did in Turkey for the same
offence. Rycaut, p. 59; see p. 43, against wine. Shah Seffi himself drank to excess;
but having in a fit of intoxication killed one of his wives, he published a mandate through
all his dominions, that no one should drink wine; and that the Governors should stave all
the casks and spill the liquor wherever it was found. Mod. Univ. Hist. vol. v. p. 471-2,
p. 475. Shah Hussein, vol. vi. 21, prohibited wine by his first act, though he afterwards
was tempted to indulge in it ; but when Bell was in Persia, the King was still sober and
devout, and drank no wine, which in consequence was not used by his court. Bell, i. 107,
see p. 116. Nadir Shah and Kerim Khan permitted the use of wine: but Aga*
Mahomed, " cruel, feroce au dela de toute expression, faisait ouvrir le ventre a ceux
" de ces sujets Musulmans qui etaient accuses de boire du vin." Olivier, torn. v. p. 136.

Monrtchekourd, p. 176.] — The difficulty of ascertaining a fact in the ancient history of
Persia, may be estimated by the contradictions in a very modern period, in an event of
extreme importance, and in the relations of contemporary authors. The battle of
Mourtchekourd, which decided the fate of Persia, was fought, according to Jones's Life
of Nadir, on the 13th November, 1728. Otter, who accompanied an Embassy to
Nadir, says November, 1730. Gardanne, the French Consul, who was at Ispahan at
the time, says November, 1729. See Olivier, vol. v. p. 375.

P. 186.] — Of the King of Persia's own poems, see a specimen in Scott Waring.
See also Gardanne, p. 76.

Lion and Bear, p. 187.] — In Bell's time, there were two lions at the court of Persia,
who couched to the Embassador as he passed, p. 100-1. When the Greek Embassador
was presented to the Caliph Moctader, A. D. 917, " one hundred lions were brought
out, with a keeper to each lion." Gibbon, 4to. v. p. 420.

Introduction, p. 128.] — Bell's description is striking, " at our entry into the hall, we
" were stopped about three minutes at the first fountain, in order to raise the greater
" respect; the pipes were contrived to play so high, that the water fell into the basin like
" thick rain. Nothing could be distinguished for some time ; and the Schach himself
" appeared as in a fog. While we moved forward, every thing was as still as death."
vol. i. p. 103.

Zein Labadeen, p. 176.] — The Zain Labadeen, called in the text the brother of
Hossein, is probably Ali, his youngest son, called afterwards Zein Alab'beddin, a the
" ornament of the religious." Mod. Univ. Hist. vol. ii. p. 101. Franklin, p. 180.

400

NOTES.

Punishment of Theft, p. 204.] — This was a punishment inflicted by the Emperor
Aurelian. Gibbon, i. p. 355.

P. 217.] — Gardanne complains in the same manner of the publicity of Persian diplo-
macy. " Les Gardes, les Secretaires, les curieux sont presens. Nous avons souvent
" demandc de les faire eloigner, mais les Ministres gardent toujours du monde. On ne
" peut pas rester seul avec eux." Journal, p. 54.

Teheran, p. 224.] — It is interesting to trace the progress of a capital. At about the
same distance from Rhages, (at which the present city of Teheran may be placed from the
remains of Rey) appears the town of Tahora, in the Theodosian tables: a sufficient pre-
sumption that Teheran itself had an original and independant existence, and did not rise
only from the ruins of the greater metropolis. Its continuance as a contemporary city
cannot now be traced distinctly ; it may indeed have borne a different name in Eastern
geography, as it is the Teheran or Cherijar of Tavernier* It re-appears however under
its present name in the journey of the Castilian Embassadors to Timur, at a period when
the greatness of Rey was still very considerable. At the end of two centuries, Pietro
dell a Valle re-visited it. He calls it the city of planes; torn. ii. 390 : the soil is pro-
bably particularly adopted to the tree; for Olivier mentions one in the neighbourhood
that measured round an excrescence at the root, seventy feet ; torn. v. p. 102. About the
same time with Della Valle, Herbert described it fully. It is the Tyroan of his
travels. Tavern ier notices it more perhaps from the materials of others than from his
own observation, torn. i. 313: and Ch a rdin speaks of it only as " petite ville." Tom. ii.
p. 120. Its name occurs with scarcely a line of comment, in a route given by Han way,
vol. i. ; and though it was a place of some interest in the reign of Nadir, its actual state
cannot be collected with any certainty till the accession of the present dynasty. It had
long indeed been the capital of a province ; and its name had been frequently connected
with objects of importance in the history of the last two centuries; yet it owes its more
immediate pre-eminence to the events of the last few years. It had been so nrrach de-
stroyed by the Affghans, (when after the battle of Salmanabad they invested it, in the hope
of seizing Shah Thamas, who had retired thither) that Aga Mahomed, the late King,
may be considered as almost its second founder. Its nearness to his own tribe and province ;
the facilities of raising instantaneously from the wandering tribes around it a large force of
cavalry ; and its central situation between the general resources of his empire and the
more exposed frontiers, combined to justify his choice of Teheran as the capital of Persia.
It has risen rapidly. In 1797 Olivier describes it as little more than two miles in cir-
cumference, and of the whole area the palace occupied more than one-fourth. Tom. v.
p. 89. In 1809, it is stated to be between four and a half and five miles round the walls.
The population, according to Olivier, even with all the encouragement which Aga Ma-
homed afforded to settlers, and including his own household of three thousand persons,
amounted in 1797 to only fifteen thousand persons. Gardanne describes it, ten years after-
wards, as having more than fifty thousand inhabitants during the winter; though he notices

NOTES.

401

the almost total desertion of the city during the heats of summer. Journal, &c. p. 55.
In one of Mr. Morier's routes in the Appendix, Teheran is represented as containing
twelve thousand houses, a better estimate of its size than the number of inhabitants.

Ark, p. 225.] — Ark is obviously, Arx.

Impress, p. 225.] — This impress was by no means pecular to Persia. Many instances
might be given from our own history down to the reign of Elizabeth : but it is sufficient
to refer to those connected with the subject in the text. Henry VI. pressed minstrels
"in solatium regis;" almost the very act of the King of Persia. Edward VI. thus
supplied his choir, (Barrington on the Statutes, p. 337) ; and in the reign of Eliza-
beth, under one of the commissions to take up all singing children for the use of the Queen's
chapel, Tusser, the author of the Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry, was impressed.
See Lysons's Environs of London, vol i. p. 92.

" Thence for my voice, I must no choice,
" Away of force, like posting horse
" For sundry men, had placards then,
" Such child to take,—"

Female Officers, p. 225. — Seradj ed Dowlah had a female guard of Calmucks,
Tartars, Georgians, Negroes and Abyssinians. ( Seir Mutagherin, vol. i. p. 146.) Nas-
sureddeen peopled a city entirely with women ; all the officers being of that sex. He is
said to have had fifteen thousand women. (Gladwin, Hist, of Indostan, vol. i. p. 114.)
It is very possible that some such caprice of an Oriental despot may have given rise to the
cities of men and women on different sides of the Ganges, of which we read in
Palladium, p. 9; and St. Ambrose, p. 54: at the end of Byshe's "Palladius de
" Gentibus Indke," and not very improbable that it may have produced the tradition so
common in the early travellers, of the islands of men and women, and perhaps the whole
fable of the Amazons. See of the islands the Arabian travellers of Renaudot, Marco
Polo, lib. iii. Fra Mauro in Vincent's Periplus, p. 671. See a curious note on the
word JFlamazeri) " all women," in Moor's Infanticide, p. 82.

Fall in Hafiz, p. 229.] — It is scarcely necessary to refer to more ancient divination ;
but the resemblance between the Persian trial and that of the Sortes Virgi/ianas must
occur to every reader. The Mahomedans have another oracle in the Koran, which they
consult in the same manner: and the Jews had similar recourse to the Scriptures of the
Old Testament. Sale's Koran. Prelim. Dissert. § iii. p. 69. The authority of Virgil
(and indeed, though less currently, of Homer also,) remained in full force to the middle at
least of the seventeenth century, as in the first instance the appeal of Charles I. and Lord
Falkland sufficiently proves: Johnson's Life of Cowley, p. 13. Even the Bible was
thus opened for divination. Ars Magica, 1638, p. iii.

402

NOTES.

Rags on Bushes, p. 230.] — This superstition was noticed in Persia by one of the earnest
travellers, Josaphat Barbaro, 1474, fol. 45, and was explained by him on the principle
that (such was the scarcity of wood in the country) even a bush was a miracle. M. I.

Change of Names* p. 230.] — The renaming of Shah Seffi, who then became. Shah
Soleyman, is related fully by Charuin and Tavernier ; and in its ceremonies is not
perhaps easily paralleled; but in its essential circumstance, a change of name from a
belief in the unluckiness of the first, it may be supported by an example in our own
history: when John of Scotland took the name of Robert III. (see Henry's History,
vol. viii. 372, from Fordun ;) because the Prince, who had borne the former appellation,
had been unfortunate in the annals of the country. In the family of Catherine de Me-
dicis ; Edward-Alexander became Henry 111 : Hercules became Charles IX. &c.
See a note in the Life of Cary, Earl of Monmouth, p. 39. The Jews thus changed their
names.

Herrmgs, p. 231.] — The herrings of the Caspian are described by P. H. Bruce.
Memoirs, p. 261. To oke speaks of u a fish resembling a herring." Catherine, II.
vol. ii. p. 56.

Coals, p. 231. — Marco Polo speaks of a combustible stone found in China; which is
obviously coal. Ebn Haukal mentions in Ferghaneh, " a stone that takes fire and
u burns," p. 250 ; compare however, p. 272, which seems to imply a more distinct know-
ledge of coal.

Demawend, p. 231.]— The distance to which according to the text, it is visible is paral-
leled by that at which Sir Wm. Jones observed the Chumalury mountains from Bhaugal-
pore. This distance is stated by him at two hundred and forty -four miles : but he adds,
that the object might be seen much further. (Note in Lord Teignmouth's Life of Sir
Wm. Jones, p. 253.) Another account gives the first distance from Bhaugalpore at two
hundred and fifty miles. P. H. Bruce, (Memoirs, 282) saw Ararat from JJerbend at a
distance of at least two hundred and ten geographical miles, equal to more than two
hundred and forty British measure, in a straight line by the compasses on Major Ren-
nell's map. Ebn Haukal mentions that Demawend may be seen fifty farsang round,
(perhaps one hundred and seventy-five miles.) He adds, " 1 have not heard that any man
<c ever ascended to its summit ;" p. 172. Herbert indeed relates his ascent (Travels),
but Olivier can describe only an ineffectual endeavour. Tom. v. p. 125, &c. The
difficulties which he encountered, seem to rival those of Tournefort in the attempt to
scale Ararat. Tom. ii. 357, &c. The fable of a plant which tinges the teeth of sheep
with gold, is not confined to Demawend: it is attached to their favourite mountains by
different nations, and may thus be traced to Mount Lebanon ; to Mount Elewnd, &c.
and the plant, which is convertible into gold, is found, if an alchemist may be believed, in

1 -■■«*.'<•

NOTES.

403

the mountains of Yemen : it was supposed indeed by the Arabs, to constitute the real object
of Niebuhr's Voyage. Description de l'Arabie, p. 123. A mountain so vast, and of
a form so peculiar, was naturally connected with the traditionary mythology of the country :
and accordingly Demawend was believed to cover with all its weight Zohak, the usurper
in the earliest dynasty of their empire. See Champion's Ferdusi.

Rey, p. 232.]— The ruins of Rey have never been described by any European traveller :
if a brief and nameless notice of them by Tavernier, torn. i. 313, (who had no suspicion
of their history, and perhaps never saw them,) can be considered an exception. From the
Oriental authorities indeed he was enabled to compile a table of latitudes and longitudes;
and to insert Rey as 35 9 35' lat. 70° 20'. long. Tom. i. p. 401. But even the position
of the ruins appears imperfectly known to Chardin ; and they were sought in vain by
one of the latest and most intelligent of his successors, Olivier, who looked for them con-
siderably too much to the south. See torn. v. p. 160-1. Gardanne, who was at
Teheran, allots to Rey only three lines ; nor indeed does he state distinctly that he was
writing from his own observation. Yet his account, however imperfect in itself, is striking
in its close. " A Test de Teheran, ruines de Rey, ancienne Rhages, et patrie de Harouw
" el Rachid. Les Persans disentque Rey avoittrois millions d'habitans. Le mot Revo~
(i lution ejrp/ique toutes les Calamites" P. 72.

The history of Rhages requires no illustration in the days of its greatness ; and that
greatness, with more than the fortune of other cities, has twice revolved. Its second rise
under the Mahomedans, has indeed been less traced than its first origin, though it was the
birth place of If ahoun fl Reschid, and one of the favourite seats of his magnificence.
It was then one of the capitals of the Buiya Sultans; see De Sacy, Memoires, &c. p. 145,
147, &c. And was taken by Mahmc d, of Ghizni, when he destroyed their dynasty. Mod.
Univ. Hist. iii. 195. It was subsequently one of the two great cities of the empire of the
Seljukians ; and as such demanded by the Emperor Rom anus, who in the decline of the
Roman power, imitated all the insodence of its greatness. With the Parthians and the
Persians, his predecessors had indeed often used this tone of presumption, and as often
failed in the wairs of which it was the prelude. Thus Crassus, when he was inarching to
his own destruction, told the Parthian Embassadors that he would give his answer at their
captial: Julian, in the midst of his own unhappy expedition, replied to the overtures of
Sapor, that he would himself visit the Persian court ; and thus Rom an us, with an inso-
lence unparalleled and intolerable, required from Alp Arslan, before he would listen to
any terms, the surrender of Rey, one of his capitals. The sequel of each event is too
familiar to be noticed. Rey still remained one of the greatest and most flourishing cities
of the East; Ispahan, Nishapour, and Bagdad, alone rivalling it. Ebn Haukal, in the
tenth century, describes it fully ; but in his day, though the commercial and ci\il greatness
of the city was at its height, its defences had declined ; and the wall around the suburbs
was falling to decay ; p. 176, p. 157, p. 172. Nevertheless it survived more revolutions ;
it was a very considerable city when it was taken by Genghiz Khan, Petit de la
Croix, p. 277 : and still, two centuries afterwards, it was one of the seats of the govern-

3f2

404

NOTES,

ment of Shah Rokh, the son of Timur. Mod. Univ. Hist. v. 394. From his death,
which happened there A.D. 1446, it ceases to maintain a conspicuous place in the history of
Persia ; and is now venerable only in the remains of its ancient grandeur.

Taxation by hides, p. 236.] — This measure of taxation was not uncommon ; it is suffi-
cient to add, that it still seems to regulate the collection in other parts of the East : for in
aome extracts from Mahomed Saduck's Journey to Cabul, it is said that " Herat
" extends from the city of Ferah to Kkafa.n& Backhury. Twelve lacks; supposed to be
(i the net produce of as much land as twelve thousand pair of bullocks can plough, all ex-
u pended in civil and military establishments."

The noose, p. 243.] — The noose was Rustanis ancient implement of war.

Lamb Skins, p. 246. — The most valuable lamb-skins are perhaps taken prematurely from
the ewe killed for the purpose. The fabulous supplies of the Barometz (" the vegetable
u lamb" of Darwin, Loves, canto i. 282) were perhaps invented by the Tartars to conceal
from their European traders the cruelty of the practice. Bell denies the existence of the
Barometz, vol. i. 43, which however is well established, though its properties may be
doubted. P. H. Bruce, in his Memoirs, p. 336, asserts the fact that the ewes are killed
before parturition for the sake of the lambs ; the skins of which are then in their greatest
beauty, with the hair lying " in short smooth pretty curls." The trade is very profitable
to the Nagayan Tartars, who sell the best for ten shillings. Chardin mentions some in
his day at fifteen franks. The wool even of those whose lives are spared for a fortnight,
lies in waves, and resembles a piece of damask, the lamb having been guarded from its
birth by linen sewed round it. Tooke's Nations of Russia, vol. ii. 136, 267.

Shalwars, p. 247.] — " When they go a hunting, they wear Shalwars, or long trowsera
" which reach up to the arm pits, into which they cram all their clothes ; and a Kerguisian
" in this dress may be taken at a distance for a monstrous pair of breeches on horseback."
Tooke's Russia, ii. 280.

Mountains between Teheran and Tabriz, Chap. XIV.'] — The mountains seen in this
direction were in the middle ages the seats of the Dilemites; the subjects of Hassan,
Sheik al Jebal, Hassan " the chief or the old man of the mountains," whose power is
familiar to every reader, and from whose name the word assassin has been derived, with an
evil import, in half the modern languages of Europe. The constant recurrence of the tale
of his enchanted palace in the old travellers, Marco Polo, Haithon, &c. is sufficient
evidence of some general foundation in truth. Holakou, the son of Genghiz Khan,
routed out the Hassanites.

Tourchiz, p. 265.] — This place occurs in the route of Forster, who mentions Mesched,
as said to be one hundred miles north-west of Turshish. Vol. ii. p. 154. It was held at

NOTES.

405

that time by Abedullah, an indc pendant Persian chief, p. 165; but Forster, who spent
above a fortnight in the town, does not allude to any wealth deposited there. In Ma-
homed Saduck's journey, the capital of the district of Turshiz and Co Surkh, is called
Sultania, which is probably the Sultanabad of Forster, another name for the old town of
Turshiz. P. 165.

Miauneh,p. 268.] — At this spot died the celebrated traveller Thevenot. See the note
of his death, torn. v. Gardanne says,' u Ses Papiers et ses livres furent, dit on, enleves
" et gardes par le Cadi." P. 41.

Number of oxen to a plough, p. 275.] — It is curious to trace in Tournefort the encrease
in the number of cattle thus employed, as he advances into Georgia: near Arz-roum>
they will yoke three or four pair to one plough, p. 213; near Cars, ten or twelve, p. 216.
Still farther on, in Georgia itself, fourteen or fifteen pair, p. 224. Vol. ii. of the
translation.

Prince Royal of Persia, p. 279.] — The character of Abbas Mirza, Prince of Tabriz,
is so striking in Oriental history, that every support, which can be given to the accuracy of
the description, is important. Gardanne confirms some of the more remarkable traits
in the text : " II veut relever sa nation, et il a l'ambition de la gloire militaire. S'il perd
" un General on un Guerrier, il dechire ses habits et donne les marques de la plus vive
" douleur. II a perda demierement des enfans, et n'a temoigne aucun chagrin. Pour
" expliquer cette indifference, il faut connaitre les mocurs. Nous demandons a un grand
" Seigneur le nombre de ses enfans. 11 repond naivement qu'il n'en sait rien, se tourne du
il cole de son Secretaire et le lui demande : celui ci repond : dix-sept." p. 3G. The
following anecdote is connected with the French character; it occurs in the account of an
entertainment given to the French Mission by the Prince's Minister. " Apresle repas, les
" danseurs font des tours de force. Le Vizir nous dit: raon maitre n'aime pas les
" danseurs, il les a tous chasses de Tauris. J'ai appelle ceux-ce des villages voisins,
" ayant appris de l'Ambassadeur de Perse, que ce divertessement etait agreable a votre
« nation." P. 37. See others, p. 38-9.

Ships on the Caspian, p. 287.] — Every reader oHIanway will recollect the extreme
importance which Nadir attached to the formation of a fleet in the Caspian, where the
famous John Elton was induced to become his Admiral. The dock-yards in the
Persian Gulph must import all their timber from India ; but the southern shore of the
Caspian contains on the spot the amplest supplies. The turbulent character of the Arabs
of the Gulph, induced Nadir Shah to meditate their removal from their own country ;
and their nautical skill and experience suggested to him the idea of transplanting them
profitably into the provinces along the Caspian, and replacing them in their ancient seats
by the people whom they thus dispossessed. But all his projects were overwhelmed in the
confusion which followed his death; and the only naval power, (with the exception of a

■106

NOTES.

few small vessels against the Turcomans), which Persia had ever formed in the Caspian,
was thus annihilated. Nadir Shah collected a fleet in the Gulph also; and made
Bushire the port of Shims. Nieruhr, torn. ii. p. 75. Here he had assembled from
twenty-two to twenty-five ships, built for him at Bombay and Siirat, &c. ; but these were
all neglected and dispersed at his death.

Language of Ghilan, p. 288.] — Ghilan, the country of the ancient Gelce, was, according
to Ebn Haukal, p. 171, the level tract along the Caspian, of that province, which in its
mountainous parts was called Dilem. Now Dilem was with Media Inferior, Mazanderan,
and the countries between the Caspian and the Tigris, one of the original seats of the
JPehlavie. Jleeren. Act. Soc. Gotting. torn. xiii. Dilem was also a retreat of that lan-
guage. In the breaking up of a great empire, the institutions of the conquered race
always linger in the extremities. The Caucasus, the country of Derbend, Segestan, and
Kerman, thus sheltered the ancient language and religion of Persia : and thus the moun-
tains of Dilem retained till the tenth century, the worship of fire; and perhaps, therefore,
the Pehlavie, with which that worship had been connected. Ebn Haukal observes of
Taberistan, the adjoining tract, " they have a peculiar dialect, neither Arabick nor Persian:
*' and in many parts of Deilman their language is not understood." In a country separated
by these circumstances, and by its local situation from the rest of Persia, it is not impro-
bable that there may still exist some traces of a distinct language : and as to the imperfec-
tions incident to the want of written memorials, Sir Wm. Jones, in his Discourse on the
Arabs, has prepared us to think that Dr. Johnson's reasoning is too general.

The Cookery of the Turcomans, p. 290.] — Their cookery is something like that of the Arabs
described by Capper. There is a full account of the two hordes, the Eastern and Western
Turcomans, in a note by the French editor of the Genealt gical History of the Tatars,
p. 535-8. See also Tooke, ii. 93. Their wealth in money in every age has been very greats
because, like the Arabs, and every other pastoral people on the confines of great civilized
empires, they sell the necessaries of life, and will not buy the luxuries. La Roque, p. 157,
remarks accordingly, t-iat in the time of Pliny, the riches both of the Romans and of the
Parthbius were niched down among the Arabs. Harm er's Observations, vol. i. p. 122.
Ch a if din in his MSS. notes in Harmer, says, that they are like Abraham, " very rich
u in cattle, in silver, and in gold."

Chap. XV I ~] — The country from Tabriz and Arz-roum may almost be considered as
new ground in European description. Gardanne is the only other traveller who has
traced this route, (Journal, &c. p. 21-35) ; but the information which he collected in his
passage is so limited, that he appears to know nothing of the Lake of Shahee ; or rather in
travelling along its shores, he confounds it with that of Van, which is at least one hundred
miles from the spot where he places it ; p. 35. The country between Arz-roum and
Tocat is described by Tournefort, torn. ii. and by Tavernier, torn. i. p. 12-19: and as
one of the great roads from Bagdad, &c. falls in at Tocat, the further progress to Con-

NOTES.

407

Btantinople is continued on Mr. Morier's line, by Taverjtier, i. 1-12. Otter ii. 330-
357. Howell, p. 102-132. Jackson, p. 205-236. Aboo Taleb, ii. 256-264. Gar-
DANne, p. 114-119; see also p. 1-13.

Khoi, p. 299.] — The singularity of the walls of Khoi, is noticed by Gardanne, with a
more singular illustration : " Qu-ot/e est entoure de murailles et de tours, et ressemble
" exactement aux gravures de Jerico que Ton voit dans les Bibles." P. 34.

Ararat, p. 306.]— The heighth of Ararat can best be understood by considering the
distance at which it maybe seen. Chardin mentions that it is visible at Marant: torn. i.
p. 253; Bruce, that he saw it at Derbend, Memoirs, p. 282 ; Struys, whom Olivier
well characterises as " Romanesque," describes his ascent to visit a sick hermit at the top,
p. 208, &c. ; but Tournefort, one of the first of travellers, has stated so fully the difficul-
ties of his own attempt, that probably they have never yet been overcome. The mountain
is divided into three regions of different breadths ; the first, composed of a short and
slippery grass or sand " aussi facheux que les Syrtes d'Afrique," is occupied by shep-
herds ; the second, by tygers and crows ; the remainder, which is half the mountain '* est
" couverte de neige depuis que l'arch y arreta, et ces neiges sont cachees la moitie de
" l'annee sous les nuages fort epais. Les tygres que nous appercumes ne laisserent pag
" de nous faire peur," p. 358. It was impossible to go forwards and penetrate to the third
region ; and not easy to go back : at length, utterly exhausted, they reached the bottom,
" nous rendimes graces au Seigneur d'en etre revenus, car peut-etre que nous serion»
" perdus on que nous serions morts de faim sur cette Montagne," p. 371. If these were
the sensations with which Tournefort regarded his enterprise, the common belief of the
country may well be admitted, that no one ever yet ascended the Ararat of the Armenians.

P. 317.] — Hassan Cala is the ancient Theodosiopolis.
vol. ii. p. 100.

D'Anville, Geogr. Anc.

Arz-roum, p. 320.] — This city has been more generally written, Erz-roum, as by
Chardin, &c. ; but from the definition assigned to it by Tournefort, torn. ii. p. 257,
276, and adopted by D'Anville, Geogr. Anc. torn. ii. 99; that of the Arza of Rum, (the
Asia Minor occupied by the Roman Empire) the present reading is established. The
plain, in which it is built, is included by Tournefort, p. 325, in that district, which he
regards as the site of the terrestrial paradise. Yet the cold of a region so elevated as that
which contains the springs of the Euphrates and the Araxes must be extreme : nor can
the beauty of the spot be at all assisted by forest scenery; Mr. Morier has observed the
scarcity of wood, and Tournefort says, that there is no fuel but pine wood, and that is
brought two or three days journey, p. 259. Arz-roum was an early christian bishopries,
in its civil history it was alternately subject to the Empire of Constantinople and that of
Persia. In the eleventh century it stood a siege of six days, when the assailants, expecting
that it would be relieved, sacrificed their hopes of booty, and set fire to the place, con-

40S

NOTES.

sumino* in it so many, that, with the destruction in the six previous days, swelled the total
loss of lives to one hundred and forty thousand. In the thirteenth century it appears as the
Argyron of Marco Polo. The city contained in Tournefort's time (1700) eighteen
thousand Turks, six thousand Armenians, and four hundred Greeks. The Jesuits reckoned
eight thousand Armenians, and one hundred families of the Greeks. The present popu-
lation is estimated by Gardanne at one hundred and thirty thousand, p. 81. In the
former commerce of Asia Minor it was, " le passage et le reposoir de toutes les marchan-
" dises des lndes." Tournefort describes the influence of the French ; and seems pleased
that the Turks pay more regard to the recommendations of the King of France, than to
those of the Mufti of Rome.

Mama Khatoun, p. 327.]— A spot near Mama Khatoun is suggested by Tournefort
as the scene of the great battle between Mithridates and Pompev.

P. 356.]— Gerate/i is the Cants of the Romans. R.

Canal from the Lake Sabanja, p. 360.]— The ancient Kings of Bithynia had left un-
finished a canal from the Nicomedian Lake, the modern Sabanja. The younger Pliny, when
Governor of the province, recommended the undertaking to Trajan. Plin. Epist. x. 46.
Trajan, in reply, desires him to take care that the lake be not exhausted bv letting its
waters into the sea. Ep. 51. Pliny, Epist. 69, suggests sufficient in answer to prove
that this danger might be obviated ; though his project, however practicable or profitable,
was never realized. Trajan's Letter, 70. At the end of sixteen centuries it was
revived by the Grand Vizir, Kuprigli. It was destined to communicate with other
rivers, and to open a water carriage into the centre of those immense forests, which in
every age have supplied the arsenals of Constantinople. But the project was sacrificed to
a timely bribe offered by those who had monopolized the conveyance of the timber by
land; and Kuprigli, at the eve of the accomplishment, was deprived of the glory of
completing that which Pliny and Trajan had projected in vain.

APPENDIX*

APPENDIX, No. I.

MONEY IN PERSIA.

(THOSE IN ITALICS HAVE ONLY A NOMINAL EXISTENCE. ACCOUNT! ARE KEPT IN DINARS AND PIAITRES.)

5 Dinars

20 Dinars

25 Dinars

50 Dinars

500 Dinars

1,000 Dinars

1,250 Dinars

1 Ghauz.
1 Beestee.
a Shahee.
1 Shahe$.
10 Shahee
20 SAaAee
1 Realf.

£ Groush.
1 Groush*.

2,500 Dinars = 50 SAaAee = 1 Ashreffee.
10,000 Dinars = 10 Piastres = 1 Tomaun.

3 Shahee = 1 Shahee J.

4 Shahee = 1 Abassee.

8 Shahee = 1 Real or Rupee §.
100,000 Rupees = 1 Lack.

* This appears the piastre in valns. " A piastre is about two shillings British." " Average exchange between
a Persia and India, one hundred and thirty piastres for one hundred rupees."

•f- ** Containing two miscall, six helwd of silver. None of the coins that are struck in Persia have any alloy."

X " The present shahee takes its name from the shahee of the Seffis, but has increased in value owing to the rise
" of silver. They have no coin of greater amount than the tomaun, except it be a very large piece which the King
" has struck for the luxury and magnificence of his own treasury, and which is equal to one thousand tomauns, or
" ten thousand piastres."

% As there is some obscurity, the whole passage in the original is subjoined here :

8 Shahee = 1 Real or Rupee.
4£ Reals = 1 Ditto.
2§ Reals = 1 Ditto.

410

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX, No. II.— 1.

ROUTES IN PERSIA.

ITINERARY FROM BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ,*

WITH THE POPULATION AND TRIBUTE.

BUSHIRE to

Alichangee| - - - -

Ahmedieh - - - - -

Sermel ------

Eesevendee - - - - -

Khosh Aub - - - - -

BORAZJOON _ - - -
Daulakee - - - -

Khonar Tackta - -

Khisht

Khaumaridge - - -
Derees ------

Kauzeroon - - - .
Abdoui ------

Desht-e-arjun - - -
Khone Zenioun - -
Bagh Shah Cheragh ■

Shiraz

Zf.rgoon - - - - -
Mirhaust gaun - •
Persepolis - - - - ■
In the plain are sixty ")
villages - - - -j

6
o

-»-

u
B

150

900

170

—

200

—

100

—

100

—

2000

260

5600

1000

600

—

600

660

500

—

1000

150

—

4000

2500

800

320

—

600

160

100

—

12,000

1000

160

600

3500

5000

Seewund - - -

Kemeen - - -

Morghaub - •

Deibeed - - ■
Khone Khorreh

Surmek - - •

Abadeh - - -
Shoolgistoun
Yezdikhaust
Maxhoud Beggy

komeshah - - •

Mayar§ - - •

Ispahanek - ■

Ispahan - - •

Gez - - - - .
mourchekourd

KOHROUD - - -

Kashan - - - .
Nusserabad -

Koom - - - .

Pool Dallatjk •
Kinar-a-gird

Teheran - - ■

3
O

170

1000

700

1000

300

100

1000

—

100

—

600

120

6000

3000

200

100

150

80,000

70,000

500

400

300

200

5000

3500

250

—

3000

2500

600

12,000

—

1000
700

120

4000

100

50,000

300

200

100

3500

1200

* The population throughout is stated at five persons to a house.

f This is the tribute paid in produce. A kherwar is one hundred mauns of Tabriz - } each maun being seven pounds
and a quarter English.

J The places in small capital letters are the stages.

| Two roads ; one by Orchiene, the other by Itpahanth

■*f-*-^^--^--

APPENDIX.

411

APPENDIX, No. II— 2.

ITINERARY FROM KOOM TO SULTANIEH.*

3
O

Mudjd-abad

In going from Koom, the Teheran road is
left, which goes more to the eastward.
At three fursungs from Koom the cele-
brated enchanted hill, called " Gedden
" gelmez," i. e. «»Aa gws onrf aever re-
turns, is passed. Near Mudjd-abad,
crossed a small river running east.

Daung - - -

A small

village

At two fursungs from Mudjd-abad, pass a

fort called Turragnareen, and some

streams of water, and on the right a

village. Sauva, a considerable town, is

five fursungs from Mudjd-abad: two or

three miles on the left, near Daung, saw
a distant range of mountains to the N.
covered with snow.

Sakisabad - -

150

300

Six fursungs from Daung, passed a round
caravanserai called Jeeb. It is situated
at the entrance of hills, on leaving the
plain of Daung. After passing the hills,
descended into the large plain, in which
Casvin is said to be situated ; here
are a number of small villages. Wind
fresh from the N.W. which is called,
Band Gagazgoon, from a place of that
name, from which quarter it blows.f

Bostanuk - -

150

200

Bostanuk is in a very extensive plain, with
many villages and cultivation. The peo-
ple talk Turkish.

Khorremdereh -

400

300

400

More villages and more cultivation than
before. Through the ravine, in which
this village is situated, runs a small
river.

- -

The Royal camp : halted eight miles from
the camp.

* Extracted from Dr. Jykes's Journal of Mr. Makesty's route.

3 G 2

f See p. 253.

412

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX, No. II.— 3.

ITINERARY PROM SULTANIEH TO BAGDAD, FROM DR. JUKES's JOURNAL.

2*
2*

3*
6*

2
6

3
5

2
5

Sultanith.
Kooshabad -

Beejaeen - -

Jereen - -
Arpadurrasi ■

Surla

Hubbadraheng

Veean - - -
Joureekan

Hamadan

300

150

250

300

2000

150

200

600

100

150

100

200

500

100

Large Village

Marching west from
through mountains.

Sultanith, passed

The road led across a plain ; passed a con-
siderable village on the plain. There is
a running stream near Beejaeen.

More villages.

Crossed the bed of a river, after leaving
Jereen. At two fursungs passed some
defiles; and continued on an ascent all the
rest of the march. Soon after Jereen, we
came into the country of the Karaguzloos.

First part of the road was on a plain; on
the right hand were two or three villages.
During the latter part of to-day's march.,
saw the famous mountain of Alwund.

Passed through the village Dumma. Many
villages besides.

The country about here looks prosperous.

The country cultivated, and villages. From
the summit of a hill, had a view of the
fertile plain of Hamadan.

Shevereen is a village three miles from
Hamadan. Hamadan, situated at the
foot of the east side of the mountain of
Alwund. Many streams fall from Al-
wund into the plain. Alwund appears at
a distance to be one long range of moun-
tains. I am assured the length of Al-
wund Proper is not more than three/wr-
sungs in length; and is distinct from the
northern range. Through the interval
between these two ranges, leads the road
to Kermanshah.

APPENDIX.

413

Appendix, No. II. — 3. (Continued.)

12
12

Zagha
Asadabad

400

600

Kungavai

Sahna

Beesitoon

4 Hissar Sefeed

300

500

200

400

1000 800

400 300

500

300

Many villages all around.

One fursung from Zagha came to a pass in
the mountain. Many streams from the
hills. There is a village one mile within
the pass : and near to it, is a caravan-
serai, which is the boundary of the dis-
trict of the Karaguzloos. Our march
then continued for three miles through
the hills, and then opened the following
view: plain of Ha ma dan to the Eastward;
to the Westward the plain of Asadabad,
surrounded by the mountaius and the
village of Asadabad, considerably beneath
us; to the Northward, the distant moun-
tains of the Courdistan ; and to the South-
ward those of IuOoristan. From here to
the plain, the descent was four miles.

This village is situated on the north side of
its plain.

Passed by one or two villages : springs of
water on the side of the mountain. Plain
well watered. Near to the village of
Sahna, we crossed two other considerable
streams which seemed to descend from
the hills that form the N. side of the
plain.

From Sahna two or three miles, our road
led up the plain; then it took a more
southerly course. The streams of yester-
day uniting, form a considerable river,
and we kept by the banks of it all day.
Near to the famous mountain of Besitoon,
we crossed a bridge, over a river, that
takes its rise in the" N. VV. mountains on
our ri'»ht, and joined the river before
mentioned. The river that runs down
this valley is called the Cfiu/n-chumal,
from a village of the same name. Here
are characters sculptured like the Perse-
politan.

Road over an uncultivated plain; to the left
a small running stream. The river of

414

APPENDIX.

Appendix, No. II. — 3. (Continued.)

Kermanshah

3 Makeedasht

Haroonabad

Kcrrund

20 -

100 60

300 200

200

Pool-e-Zohaub -

4 5

Kasr-e-Shereen

Small
Place.

yesterday seemed to take a more S. di-
rection among the mountains ; and we
lost it after leafing the valley of Busi-
toon. We saw Kermanshah, and en-
camped six miles from the town.

One hour and a half after leaving our en-
campment, crossed a good bridge of
seven arches, over the river which was
running to the south, and said to join
those that run down the valley Kusis-
toon, to form the Shooster river. The
Tauk-e- Houston is in the north range of
mountains about seven miles from Ker-
manshah. The river in the plain to the
N. of the town runs south, and joining
with that from Sahna and Btsitoon, adds
its stream to the large Shooster river.
They call this river Kara Sou: it is said
to take its rise in the mountain of Kour-
distan, forty miles to the northward of
Kermanshah.

Seven miles from Kermanshah descended
into the plain of Maheedasht.

Plain of Haroonabad; is well watered.
Crossed a bridge soon after quitting the
village. The bed of the river large.

The mountains at Kerrund contract, and
leave an open space at the distance of
seven miles further on ; through which
the road descends into the Turkish terri-
tory.

Seven miles from Kerrund is the pass that
separates Persia from Turkey. — Zohaub
is a large town, not far distant from the
bridge called Pool-e- Zohaub, where we
encamped.

Piastres.
3000

The Alwund, which takes its rise, in the
mountains of Kerrund, runs near Kasr-e-,
Shereen.

APPENDIX.

415

Appendix, No. II. — 3. (Continued.)

•

3
O

o
H

5
M

18
18

30
35

5
8
9

Khanakee - -
Kizzil Robot -
Shahrevan

Bagdad.

2000
1500
1000

8000
20,000

Built on the banks of the Alwund : here is a
good bridge.

And the revenues rented for twelve thou-
sand five hundred and six piastres.

The Alwund river here is very considerable.

APPENDIX, No. II.-- 4.

ISPAHAN TO BAGDAD.

Anooshervan.

Imauret.

Chal Seeah.

Hissar.

Dur.

Mehrabad.

Dehhak.

Pur Syeh.

Koukek.

Kenghaver.

Khomehee.

416

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX, No. II.— 5.

ROUTE FROM BUSH1RE TO CONGOON.

3
go

«5

a
It
3
fa

Mir Abdullah.

Baudouleh.

Deh Ranzee.

Kaukee.

Congoon.

APPENDIX, No. II.— 6.

ROUTE FROM SHIRAZ TO BEHBAHAN.

3
1

C
3

3
fa

•

Jouyoum.

Fahleeyaun.

Kholar.

Seraub Seeah.

Deh Ali.

Bausht.

Pouli Dousack.

Dougoumbedan.

Pouli Mourd.

Behbahan.

APPENDIX.

417

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL,

KEI»T AT BUSHIRE BY DR. JUKES, JUNE 1807.

Day.

June

5th

Gth

13th

14th

15th

10th

17th

Hour.

6 A. M.
1 P. M.

6 A. M.
2 P.M.

6 A. M.

2 P.M.

6 A. M.

1 P.M.

5 A. M.

2 P.M.

5 A. M.

2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 o

90<

80
84

80
87

Wind and Weather.

Cool breeze from the land.

N.W.

Haze.

Fresh N. W all the day.*

Pleasant and more mode-
rate.

Evening hazy.

Very hazy.

Light N. wind through the
day.f

Light N. wind and very
hazy.

Do. blowing rather fresh at
at night.

Pleasant N. breeze. In the
evening but little wind,
and at night warmer than
I have felt it for some
time.J

Day.

Hour.

June.
18th

19th

20th

5 A. M.

2 P. M.

5 A. M.

4 P.M.

5 A. M.

3 P.M.

83<
89

84
90

83
8G

Wind and Weather.

21st

22d

23d

5 A.M.
4 P.M.

5 A. M.
3 P.M.

5 A. M.

83
87

Light N. wind ; hazy during
the morning.

Fresh from the N. W. dur-
ing the evening.

Rather fresh from the N. W.

At night strong from the

N.W.

Fresh: at night fresher:
since the N. W. begun on
the 18th, it has constantly
blown harder during the
night; and somewhat lulled
during the day. This even-
ing extremely hazy, and
at sunset, the sun quite ob-
scured. §

Light N. air: fresh at
night and exceedingly
hazy.

Do. : at sunset atmosphere
clearer : night serene.

Calm, and the warmest morn-
ing in the season, light W.

* Strong N. W. from the. 6th to the 13th, with little or no intermission : great dust.
f Water melons, musk melons, and figs in season; and plenty of them.
J The weather does not appear so hot as in former seasons.

§ I have not remarked such a haze in former times. 1 have scarcely seen the mountains of Persia since the latter,
end of May.

418

APPENDIX.

Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.)

Day.

Julie.

24th

25th

Hour.

3 o

Wind and Weather.

5 A. M.
3 P.M.

26th 6 A. M.
3 P. M.

27th

28th

29th

July.
3d

4th
5th
6th

5 A.M.
3 P. M.

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.

2 P.M.

5 A. M.

3 P.M.

5 A.M.

2 P. M.

5 A. M.

3 P.M.

83°
87

84
89

83
88

83
91

85
92

85
91

84
92

85
94

85
95

hreeze during the day. The
island of Kharrack dis-
tinctly seen from the plain,
and from Concord lodge.*

Light N. W. hazy.

Do.

At night, light breeze from
the land.

Warm morning: hazy.

Light N. W.

Pleasant : cool breeze at night
from the land.

N. breeze. Extremely warm
at night : breeze from the
southward.

Calm, and very warm.t

N. light: very hazy morning,

North : cool breeze from the
land at day-break.

N. warm in the morning.

South ; in the evening the
south W. sprung up.

Day.

July.
7th

8th

Hour.

9th

LOth

11th

12th

13th

14th

15th

16th

17th

5 A. M.
3 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.

2 P. M.

5 A. M.

3 P.M.

5 A. M.
3 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.
3 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

F S

Wind [and Weather.

84°
95

83
95£

93£

90
93

89
934

89
94

92
95

89
96

90
95£

92
96

South, light: night very
close. 98° in the country.

North : land breeze cool at
day-break.

Sun set very thick : sun
hazed.

North ; fresh.

North: pleasant; very hazy.

North all day; at night,
breeze from the land : very
hazy.

N. light: very warm at night.

S. light ; great haze. Sun
seen only half an hour after
it was risen.

W. light ; hazy, close, and
somewhat cloudy.

N. light; great haze: cool
on account of the north
breeze.

North: hazy.

North: sun set cloudy. Night
close.

* I have seen it one or two days before in this month, but I do not recollect to have seen it during th« winter, or
when the atmosphere is very clear.

f Bushire ; grapes good and plentiful ; musk and water melons, and figs.

APPENDIX

419

Meteorological Journa

L, &c. 1807. (Continued.)

Day.

Hour.

o ^

s «
-= s

Wind and Weather.

Day.

Hour.

S <u

Wind and Weather.

July.

Aug.

18th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

90°
96

S. E.— during the day S.W.
Heavy dew.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

91°
96

N. fresh.

5 A. M.

N. fresh.

J 9th

5 A. M.
3 P.M.

89
96

N. W. great dew at night.

2 P.M.

5th

5 A. M.

N. cooler in the day, but

20th

5 A. M.

South ; fresh ; hazy. At Mr.

2 P. M.

closer at night.

3 P.M.

Bruce's house 100°, very

close.

6th

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

89
95

N. Atmosphere clearer.
Mountains visible.

21st

5 A.M.

South ; oppressively hot.

3 P.M.

7th

5 A. M.

North.

22d

5 A. M.

S. W. fresh.

2 P. M.

2 P.M.

8th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

88
93

N. strong. Early at night
wind from the south.

23d

5 A. M.

S. W. These southerly winds

3 P.M.

are unusual.

9th

5 A. M.

N. W.

24th

5 A. M.

S. W. very hazy.

2 P.M.

10th

5 A. M.

North.

25th

5 A. M.

South West.

2 P.M.

11th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

87
95

Rather south.

26th

5 A. M.

S. W.

2 P.M.

12th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

87
94

S.W.

27th

5 A. M.

S.W.

2 P. M.

13th

5 A. M.

N. W. ; extremely hazy.

28th

5 A. M.

S.W.

2 P.M.

14th

5 A. M.

N. ; at night light E. breeze.

29th

5 A. M.

S. W. light ; very close, and

2 P.M.

oppressive.

15th

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

86
94

S. during the day. At night
cooler than for three months

30th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

90
98

Greater heat than yesterday.
Yet it hlew N. and we did

past.

not feel the heat so much.

16th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

87
94

S. W. great dew at night.

Aug.

17th

5 A.M.

N. W.in the evening. Morn-

1st

5 A.M.

2 P. M.

91
95

North ; light fresh.

2 P.M.

ing calm; and oppressive
heat.

3H2

420

APPENDIX.

Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.)

Day.

Hour.

Aug.
19th

20th
21st
22d

23d
24th

25th
26th
27th
28th

5 A. M.

2 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

Wind a»d Weather.

29th 5 A. M.

2P.M.

30th; 5 A. M.
2 P.M.

Sept.
1st

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.

2 P. M.

90 c
95

87
93

84
93

82
92

83
92

84
93

83
93

85
94

83
93

82
92

85
93*

87
94

83
95

85
94

N. hrecze. Nights cool and
pleasant.

N. W. hazy.

Cold morning.

N. W. unusually cold for
the season, in the morning :
saw the mountains.

Saw the mountains.

Colds becoming frequent,
from the cold nights.

S. Dew at night.

S. Heavy dew at night.

S. W. ; very hazy and great
dew.

Evening and morning, thick
fog. During the day S.
breeze.

S. W. Oppressive day.

S. W. Warm and oppres-
sive: hazy.

South.

S. W. Dew at night.

Day.

Sept.
3d

Hour.

S «

■g s

4th
5th
6th
7th

8th
9th
10th
11th
12th
13th

14th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P. M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.
5 P. M.

Wind and Weather.

86 c
95

86
93

86
94

85
94

84
95

88
95

83
94

85
95

86
95

S. W. Hazy.
S. W.

s. w.

N. light winds.

West ; light ; very warm

N.W.; light

S. Evening cloudy. Op-
pressive heat.

S. ; a very unusual day at
this season. Wind increased
from the S. durug the
morning, and blew hard
till two P. M. ; lulled quar-
ter of an hour ; shifted to
the N. ; blew very hard,
with lightning and thunder.
Rain ; dull ; and at five
P. M. vast column of sand
from the E. announced a
gale. The thermometer

APPENDIX

421

Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.)

Day.

Hour.

a *

— ——————

Wind and Weather.

Day.

Hour.

o ^

g 0>

« s

Wind and Weather.

Sept.

sunk eleven degrees. Rain,

29th

5 A.M.

80°

S. Light.

thunder, and immense

2 P. M.

lightning. Night: pleasant
breeze during the night,

30th

5 A.M.

S. Close.

from S. and E.

Oct.

2 P. M.

•

15th

5 A. M.

83°

S. fresh; cool and pleasant.

1st

5 A.M.

Westerly ; thick fog and ex-

2 P. M.

2 P.M.

tremely wet. Ground moist,

like as with rain.

16th

5 A. M.

N. light.

2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

79
91

N. W.

17th

5 A.M.

N. W. hazy.

2 P.M.

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

80
92

N. W.

19th

5 A. M.

•

2 P.M.

4th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

80
90

N. fresh : comet, due W t of
Bushire. 7 P. M. 40° and

20th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

83
93

N. pleasant.

50° above the horizon.

21st

5 A.M.

5th

5 A.M.

N. fresh : mountains clear.

2 P.M.

22d

5 A.M.

N. 9 P. M. cool E. breeze.

6th

5 A.M.

N. fresh.

2 P.M.

23d

5 A.M.

7th

5 A.M.

N. fresh : light.

2 P.M.

24th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

81
93

N. fresh: mountain clear:
land wind.

8th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

81
92

S. light and warm: consi-
derable dew at night.

25th

5 A.M.

N. Fresh at night : hard from

9th

5 A.M.

S. W. light Baad-e-Suba.

2 P.M.

the N. W.

2 P. M.

10th

5 A. M.

W. in the day. Baad-e-

26th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

85
93

N. W. More moderate.

2 P.M.

Suba and dews.

27th

5 A.M.

N. Baad-e-Suba, cool from

11th

5 A.M.

Do.

2 P.M.

the mountains.

2 P.M.

28th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

80
92

East. Cool.

12th

5 A.M.
2 P. M.

80
90

S. E. cool breeze.

422

APPENDIX.

Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.)

»ay.

Hour.

S 4)

Wind and Weather.

Day.

Hour.

5 4>

Wind and Weather.

Oct.

13th

5 A.M.

79°

N. W. fresh and cold.

21st

5 A. M.

74°

East and north.

2 P.M.

14th

5 A.M.

N. cool and pleasant.

22d

5 A. M.

North : east and west in the

2 P.M.

morning.

15th

5 A.M.

N. pleasant.

23d

5 A.M.

E. heavy clouds and little

2 P.M.

84*

2 P.M.

rain.

16th

5 A.M.

N. hazy mountains.

24th

5 A. M.

East. Clouds ; heavy clouds

2 P.M.

5 P.M.

to the W. and thunder :
warm.

17th

5 A.M.

N. pleasant.

2 P.M.

25th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

78
85

N. fresh.

18th

5 A.M.

East and north.

2 P.M.

26th

5 A. M.
2 P.M.

76
84

N. fresh. Cloudy and plea-
sant

19th

5 A.M.

North.

2 P.M.

27th

5 A.M.

20th

5 A.M.
2 P.M.

73
87

East A. M.; then southerly
and warmer.

28th

- -

Went a hunting to the 12th
November.

APPENDIX.

423

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL,

KEPT AT BUSHIRE, NOVEMBER, 1808.

Day.

Hour.

g 4,

Wind and Weather.

Day.

Hour.

S a>
H

Wind and Weather.

Nov.

6 A. M.

69°

S. E. light clouds from the

8th

6 A.M.

68°

Calm, and rather hazy : light
clouds.

Clouds still rising.

10 P. M.

Sky wild. Foxes tails: an
extraordinary halo round

10 P. M.

Fresh night.

the moon: sultry.

9th

7 A.M.

Southerly. Clouds all over,
with appearance of rain.

6 A.M.
12

70
84

S. E. clouds all over, but
light. Very sultry, and

Very sultry.

wind hot, though not clam-

11 P. M.

Clear sky, and a pleasant

my.

evening.

10 P. M.

10th

7 A.M.

Calm. Fine clear morning.

4th

6 A.M.

S. E. clouds all over: haze;

Sultry day.

wind light in the morning,
but increased very strong

10 P. M.

at noon.

11th

7 A.M.

Southerly. Sultry : cloudy to

10 P. M.

Fell in the evening very

the north, and at sun-set

heavy: clouds in the N.

11 P. M.

large clouds over Halila

W. with a little lightning.

Peak emitting much light-

Calm.

ning. At about 7 P. M. it
blew fresh from the clouds,

5th

6 A.M.

N. E. At about three this

and at about ten o'clock in

morning it blew a furious

the morning a most violent

10 P. M.

gale from the N. E. and
W. with much thunder and
lightning. The rain fell at
about half past four, and

storm of thunder and light-
ning from the N. W. with
much rain.

the wind subsided; it pro-
duced a charming coolness

12th

12 Noon.

W. very fresh. Still many
clouds.

in the air. At 12 wind

East.

10 P. M.

N. W. clear evening; at sun-
set the sky looked rainy

6th

6 A.M.

W. clear sky, fresh and cold.
Fell ill, and could not ob-

with clouds all over.

serve.

13th

6 A.M.

N. beautiful clear weather,
and cold.

7th

Very clear weather: Halila
Peak, and mountains, seen

1 P.M.

remarkably plain.

11 P.M.

N. fine clear night; cold:

424

APPENDIX.

Meteorological Journal, &c

1808.

-(Continued.)

Day.

Hour.

Wind and Weather.

Day.

ermo-
eter.

Wind and Weather,

£ s

Nov.

f s

Nov.

slept with a blanket and

22d

7 A. M.

65°

N. W. cold and bracing.

coverlid.

N. W. warmer.

14th

6 A.M.

64°

N. fine clear weather: saw
the first snows on the N. E.

11 P. M.

mountains.

23d

7 A. M.

N. W. calm weather.

N.W.

11 P.M.

N. W. light breeze.

11 P. M.

Clear weather.

24th

6 A.M.

S. W. very cloudy, and ap-

15th

6 A.M.
12

64
72

N. W. delightful morning,
fresh and pleasant.

Some few clouds at the close

10 P. M.

75
73

pearance of rain. Clouds
gathered at sunset in the
N. W. quarter.

11 P. M.

of the evening. The night
quite clear. The stars shin-
ing with peculiar brilliancy:

25th

6 A.M. 70

1 P. M. 67

10 P. M. 68

S. E. morning very thick,
and lightning in N. W.
Clouds all over portending

•

Orion, Arcturus, and the

storm and wind : N. breeze.

Pleiades quite splendid.

26th

6 A.M.

S. E. blew very fresh in the

36th

6 A.M.

Calm. Fine morning. .

night from the N. E. and

11 P. M.

Light airs. Warm.

N. W. with rain and occa-
sional thunder : in the morn-

17th

6 A.M.

Light airs, and calms.

ing blew fresh, and manv
clouds. N. W.

12 P. M.

Cloudy.

10 P. M.

N.W.

18th

6 A.M.

Warm and pleasant.

27th

7 A.M.

N. W. very cold ; slept with

S. if any thing, cloudy.

two blankets.

11 P. M.

Wind hot, and strong ; ap-
pearances of a southerly

11 P. M.

Ditto.

wind.

28th

6 A.M.

19th

6 A.M.

N. very light breeze.

11 A.M.

S. W. and shifting about.

11 P. M.

76
76

W. in the evening much ap-
pearances of blowing, and

11 P.M.

S. W. clouds all over, and
appearances of rain.

many clouds.

29th

6 A.M.

Snow seen very plain.

20th

6 A.M.

N. fine clear morning.

2 P.M.

1 P. M.

Light breeze.

10 P. M.

S.W.

21st

7 A.M.

N. W. fresh : night cold, but
very clear.

30th

7 A. M.

Southerly. Clouds all over:
at sun-set a cloud covered
Halila Peak: at night

N. W>

clouds rising from the N.E.

APPENDIX.

425

Meteorological Journal, &c. 1808. (Continued.)

o .•

O J

Day.

Hour.

£ 3

Wind and Weather.

Day.

Hour.

-= S

Wind and Weather.

Dec.

1st

7 A. M.

64°

Westerly. Calm and serene.

10th

7 A. M.

69°

N. W. strong. Cold: haze.

2 P. M.
11 P. M.

1 P. M.
11 P.M.

70
67

Continued to blow fresh.

7 A.M.

Easterly. Fresh from the

mountains.

11th

7 A. M.

Cold morning.

2 P. M.

S. at noon, fine weather.

2 P. M.

S. W. very light.

11 P. M.

S. night clearer; light clouds,
evening hot.

12th

6 A. M.
2 P.M.

Cold.

N. W. light.

7 A.M.
2 P. M.

G5
73

East. Light breeze.
Westerly at noon ; warm day.

11 P. M.

11 P.M.

Warm : evening pleasant.

13th

7 A.M.

East. Fine morning. Haze
over the mountains.

4th

7 A. M.

East.

11 P. M.

2 P. M.

S. W. strong at 10 o'clock:
heavy clouds.

14th

7 A.M.

Northerly. Very fine clear

1 P. M.

weather, and cold.

11 P. M.

Clouds in the evening: ga-
thered in the northward,

dispersed with a light squall

15th

7 A. M.

Clear weather.

and lightning. Cloud s from
the soutiiward at eleven at

11 P. M.

S. W. sprung up, with a haze

night.

all over. Warm.

5th

7 A.M.
2 P. M.

70
73

S. a light squall at night :
morning cloudy, but clear-
ed up alter.

17th

9 A. M.

Alichangee. — S. W. Great
clouds in the evening por-
tending storm : during the
day very warm.

6th

7 A. M.

N. fine clear weather.

19th

6 A. M.

S. pleasant day. Great haze,

2 P. M.

and the mountains just

11 P. M.

looming.
A charming breeze.

7th

7 A.M.

E. in the morning, wind from

2 P. M.

the land; delightful clear

20 th

7 A.M.

Fine clear morning,

11 P.M.

weather.

Borazjoon.

8th

7 A.M.

N. rather calm.

21st

8 A.M.

11 P. M.

A most charming moon light.

1 P. M.

Dead calm under the moun-
tain : hot wind sprung up,

Oth

7 A. M.

Calm. A warm day. Very

and curled up books, paper

11 P.M.

fine suu-rise and sun-set.

and ivory instruments.

3 l

426

APPENDIX.

Meteorological Journal, &c.

1808.

(Con

tinned.)

Day.

Hour.

P H

Wind and Weather.

Day.

Hour.

2 a

Wind and Weather,

Dec.

22d

6 A.M.

51°

Danlakee. — This place, si-
tuated under the mountains,

27th

7 A. M.

39°

Very cold: fires in our tents.
Great coats.

is reckoned hotter than
Borazjoon.

2 P. M.

Di'sht-e-arjun. — West. Very
cold: snow in the moun-

23d

6 A. M.

Khisht. — S. cloudy all over.

tains, falling from very
thick clouds a little on the

Khaumauridge. — Latitude

plain.

8 A. M.

by meridional ohservation,
29°. 33'. 55".

Fine clear night. Orion more
beautiful than ever.

28th

7 P. M.

West. Worsted stockings
and three blankets.

24th

6 A.M.

Wind from the E. very cold. |

29th

7 P. M.

Khone Zenioun. — Freezing
in the tents with a fire in

9 P. M.

Kauzeroon. — Clear and beau-

them.

25th

6 A.M.

tiful weather.

2 P. M.

Bagh shah Cheragh. — West.
Snow fell, and water strong-
ly frozen.

26th

6 A.M.

E. cold.

3 P. M.

56 Vale of Abdovi.

30th

2 P.M.

Shiraz. — Fine clear weather.

8 P. M.

45 Light clouds.

INDEX.

AbADEH, village of, p. 150

Abbas, Shah, p. 163. 165, 166. 168. 175. 180. 213. 267,

268, 269. 271. 287. 290
Abbas Mirza, the Heir Apparent of Persia, p. 109.

241, 242. 252. 266 — character and anecdotes, p.

279-84. 303. 307. 366
Abdoui, valley of, p. 93
Abdui. Assiz(Saood ibn Abdool UzzEEn) chief of the

Wahabees, p. 222
Abdult.a Aga, JIusselim of Bussorah, p. 12
Abdulla Aga, a rebel Courd, p. 310. 315
Abdulla Khan, pro-JVfehmander, p. 122
Aboui.la Resoul, Sheik of Bushire, p. 10, 11, 12 —

history of, p. 15 — 28
Abhar, town of, p. 956
Aderbigian, silver mines, p. 238 — boundaries enlarged,

p. 266 — revenue, p. 284
Administration of the provinces of Persia, p. 49 — of

the districts, p. 235 — offices sold, p. 237
Adventure at Pool Dal! auk, p. 181 — at Alwar, p. 318
Afghans, p. 33. 50. 153. 155. 168
Afsiiars, p. 240
Aga, a Tartar title, p. 235
Aga Besueer, the Queen's chief eunuch, p. 104.

118
Age Kemal, village of, p. 176
Aga Khan, p. 148
Aga Mahomed Khan, King of Persia, p. 181.211.214.

218.221. 238, 239. 242. 267. 290

Agajik, village of, p. 305

Agatch, Turkish measure, p. 305

Agalch degnis, " Sea of Trees," p. 359

Agi, river of, p. 293

Agriculture, at Bushire, p. 60. 78 — in Aderbtgian, p

300-1 — in Asia Minor, p. 331, 332. 334. 339
Agri dagh or Ararat, p. 306
Ahmadieh, village of, p. 76
Ak Caleh, p. 326. 330
Ala dagh, mountains near Diadin, p. 311
Albores, mountains near Teheran, p. 177. 183. 227,

228
All Capi gate, at Ispahan, p. 168
Alichangee, village of, p. 71
An Mirza, Prince of Shiraz — See Hossein Ai.i

Mirza
All Shah, village near Tabriz, p. 293
Ali Shah, ark of, at Tabriz, p. 278
Aliverdy Khan, bridge of, p. 213. 268
Alwar, adventure with the Aga of, p. 318
Amasia, approaches to, p. 347 — chambers in the rock,

p. 348 — people, 349
Ameenabad, p. 154
Ameen-ed-Dowlah, p. 185. 190. 195, 196. 199. 201. 204,

205. 211.213.239. 250, 251
Animals (of the Dashtistan) p. 62-7 — combats of, p. 119,

120. 209
Antelope, eyes of the, p. 369
Aqueducts, ancient, at Shapour, p. 86 — at Persepolis,

p. 131. 135
Arabah, wheeled cart, p. 300, 315. 326
3i2

428

INDEX.

Arab tribes on the coast of Persia, p. 16, 50 — at

Shooster, p. 252 — throughout the kingdom, p. 240 —

pirates, p. 371
Ararat, mountain of, p. 306. 308. 315
" Arctomys" of Linnaeus, p. 260
Araxes, river, now the Bend-emir, p. 124 — another,

now the Arras, p. 317
Ark, fortified palace, p. 207. 225. 259
Armaghaneh, village of, p. 262
Arched roofs at Derces, p. 85 — at Abadeh, p. 151 — at

Mesjid Madre Suleiman, p. 146
Armenian clergy in Ispahan, p. 161 — churches atJulfa,

p. 168 — merchant, p. 225 — people at Arz-rovm, p.

322 — inscription, p. 329
Arrian, p- 146
Arsingan, p. 332
Arubah, cape, p. 3

" Arz-beg" lord of requests, p. 69. 76
Arz-roum, p. 320 — ancient and present state, p. 322
Ashreff, the second Affghan king, p. 168. 175
Ashreff, town of, p. 288
Ashtola, island of, p. 4

Asher Khan, Persian Embassador in Paris, p. 334
Asparagus, wild, p. 330
" Asses Ears," points of land, p. 9
Aslerabad, p. 288

Astrology of Bushire, p. 69. 73 — of Tabriz, p . 291
Atesh Gau, p. 231
Attabek Shah, p. 102
Auk-kend, village of, p. 264

4 ' Backshish," vails, p. 323

Bagh Shah Chrragh, p. 97

Baghwarder, latitude near it, p. 152

Bahram, fort of King, p. 150

Bahrein, p. 52, 53. 62

Baibort, district of, p. 331

Bairam Ai.i Khan Cadjar, p. 100. 108. 122

Bairam, feast of the, p. 40 — Corban Bairam, p. 154

■• Baklavah" cake of honey, paste, &c p. 324

Bakonba, p. 284

Baklegian, lake of, p. 124

Bakliar tribe, p. 240- 242 — body guard of the Prince

at S!:iraz,\). 110 — mountains, p. 160
" Balconah" customary present to an embassador,

p. 35
Balouch.es, from Crotchet/ to Cape Menzc, p. 5. 49, 50
Balouchestan,\>. 49

Bang, cape, p. 50

Barley, p. 262. 266 — open to the King's people, p. 256
Barnhill, the, p. 1
Bat/azid, city of, p. 306
Bayrack, p. 350

Bazars of Bushire, p. 57 — of Shiraz, p. 102 — of Ispa-
han, p. 170
Beards in Persia, p. 166 — dyed, p. 231 — process of

dying, p. 247
Bebehan, city of, p. 49
Beglerbegs, p. 49 — See p. 235 — of Ispahan, p. 160. 162

172
Benak, spice plant, p. 92
Bendemir, river, ancient Araxes, p. 51 — course of, p.

124
Bendes, p. 61
BenGieul, [of the Euphrates, see map] of the Araxes,

p. 317. 326
Bisgoush, mountains of, p. 270
Blacker, Lieutenant, p. 2
Blanket, Admiral, p. 33
Body-Guard, of the King, p. 242
Bokhara, blue beards in, p. 247 — Silver from, p. 2Stf
Boli, p. 357— forest of, p. 358
Bombay, departure from, p. 2
Bombareek, cape and rock of, p. 6
Boots in Persia, p. 246
Borazjoon, village of, p. 76
Bosnia, native of, p. 324. 340
Bottle of sugar candy broken before the Envoy's horse,

p. 84.97. 124
Bridges at Ispahan, p. 162. 213
Broad cloth, excellence of English, p. 355-
Brodies from Monze to Cape Jasques, p. 5
Bruce, Mr. Assistant Resident at Bushire, p. 10, 11. 32.

33.37. 51,52. 69.' 206, 218— sent to India, p, 219.

240
Buffalo s, p. 359

Bullion, price of in Persia, p. 238
Bund-emir Timoor, p. 124 — Bund Kohrood,\>- 177 — at

Ispahan, p. 213
Buonatarte, Treaty with Persia, p. 216 — conduct of

the Persians, p. 251 — his hospital at Malta, p. 368
Busheab, island of, or Khoshaub, p. 7 — pearls on the

shoal, p. 53
Bushire, arrival in the roads, p. 10 — landing in Persia,

p. 1? — militia of, p. 13 — history of the Sheik of,

chap. ii. p. 15-28 — description of the town, p. 56-8
Bustard, p. 61.
3

INDEX.

429

Bus lion, cape, mine and fort at, p. 51

Cadjar, dynasty of, p. 150 — tribe of, p. 241

Campbell, Mr. Surgeon to the Mission, p. 2

Captives among the Turcomans, p. 289

Cara-aineh, village of, p. 303

Cara-hissar, beautiful scenery, p. 334

Caraja, p. 332

Carajalar, p. 35 I

Carajol, p. 354

Caravanserai, p. 81, &c. — at Vezdi/chaust, p. 153 — at

Maxhood Bcggy, p. 154 — at Mayar, p. 157 — at Gez,

175 — at Saidabad, p. 272
Carpets, Persian, p. 166
Caspian sea, p. 290 — ships on, p. 287
Casvin, city of, p. 253-4
Catabee, Persian dress, p. 99. 245
Causeway (of Shah Abi as), p. 287, 358,360
Cavalcade, on the journey to Teheran, p. 69-70
Ceylon, pearl of, p. 53
Chahar Bagh, p. 162. 170

Chairs at Ispahan like those of Persepolis, p. 162
Ciiappan Oglu, p. 341. 346
Chappow, inroads of the Turcomans, p. 289
Chardin, p. 126. 129. 168, 169, 170-1. 206.230,243.

277
Charts, errors in the, Persian Gulph, Heather, p. 7 —

Macclber, p. 9. 373
" Char-warder" chief Muleteer, p. 70
" Chatters," running footmen, p. 37. 69. 212. 246
Chedaughee, tribe of, p. 268
Chehil-minar, (Persepolis), p. 129
Chehil-sitoon at Ispahan, p. 164
Chehil-ten at Shiraz, p. 105
Cuenan, story of Sheik, p. 105
Chenar tree, p. 104, &c.
Cherries in Asia Minor, p. 335. 338. 344
Chijlik, p, 330

" (hoppers,'' 1 couriers, p. 64. 181
" Chorbah" soup, p. 324
Christians, tomhs of ancient, p. 329. 357 — retreats of,

p. 240. 243
Chrysostom, St. John, p. 349
Chubar, town of, coast of Jtfekran, p. 5
Climates various in Persia, p. 49 — of Bushire, p. 61 — of

Teheran, p. 227-9 — see Appendix
Coals, in Mazanderan, p. 231
Coare, Mr. dies at Bushire, p. 47

Coflan-kou, mountain of, p. 267

Coinage in Persia, p. 238

Comana Pontica, p. 343

" Conchas," long trays, p. 116

Congoon, town and Sheik of, p. 7, 8. 49 — pearl bank,

p. 55
Constantinople, splendour of the scene, p. 363
Cookery of the Turcomans, p. 289
Copper, trade in, at Tocat, p. 345
Corbal,\>. 124

Corban Bairam, feast of, p. 154
Corbett, Capt. H. M. S. Nereide, p. 2. 11
Cormorants on trees, p. 64
Cotton atllallila, p. 59 — in Persia, 231
Colul, p. 76

Court of Persia, ceremonies of, p. 286
Cow dung as fuel, p. 251. 272
Cranes, p. 305
Cufic inscription at Reshire, p. 59 — at Rey, p. 233 — at

Sultanieh, p. 258 — on the bridge over the Kizzil-ozan,

p. 267 — at Mama Khatoun, p. 328 — at Arz-roum,

p. 322
Curdistan robbers, p. 303. 307. 310. 312. 315. 326, 32T.

330
Currimabad, ancient Corbiana, p. 233
Cypresses at Shiraz, p. 103, 104
Cyrus ? tomb of, p. 145

Danish establishment in the Gulph of Persia, p. 51

Darabgherd, note, p. 124

Dashtistan, p. 16. 48. 76-7

Dasti, district of, p. 39. 51

Daulakee, p. 77, 78. 82. 160

Davis, Capt. George, H. M. S. Sapphire, p. 2. 44- 64

Deerogha, p. 82

Dehnar, p. 179

Dehsis, p. 261

Deibeed, p. 147

Delhis of the Turkish army, p. 325. 327. 353-4

Delibaba, village of, p. 315

Demawend, mountain of, p. 177. 183. 231 — fables con-
nected with it, p. 232

" Dereea Kulzum" the Caspian, p. 290

Derees, town of, p. 84, 85

Dereyah, capital of the Wahabees, p. 222

Dcrveishes, p. 32 (Talamash, as a Dervei$h, p. 3S>
82. 104

430

INDEX.

Dewan Khoneh at Shiraz, p. 108 — at Ispahan, p. 166 —
at Teheran, p. 188 — atSultanieh, p. 260

" Dherna" see note, p. 33

Diadin, town of, p. 309. 329

Diplomacy of Persia, p. 198-201 — publicity of, p. 216

Diu, Portuguese colours on the fort of, p. 2

Divers in the Pearl Fishery, p. 54

Division of time in Persia, p. 41

" Dochler" mountain, p. 93

Dog of the Balouches, p. 50 — Kqfla Dog, p. 64

" TyogooshelC slit cap, p. 150

" Do/ma/i," p. 324

Dome of the mosque at Sullanieh, p. 258 — domed build-
ings, p. 279

Dress of Persia, p. 243-8

" Dungaree" linen cloth, p. 26

Durand, guard house, p. 346. 357

Dutch painters in the service of Shah Abbas, p. 168

Duties of customs, p. 297

Dwarf wrestlers at Shiraz, p. 119

Earthquakes at Casvin, p. 254 — at Tabriz, p. 277, 278 —
at Tasouj, p. 297

" Eels''' or tribes, p. 288

Effendi, p. 20

Egmaun, port of, p. 44. 373

Elauts, encampments of, p. 77. 231. 262. 301. 304. 308
— reception in their tents, p. 308-9

" Elkhee chee" master of the mares, p. 304

Emik Aga, Governor of Arz-roum, p. 323 — created a
Pacha, 332

English letter from a Persian, p. 31 — compare, p.
203

Entertainments given to the Envoy by the new gover-
nor of Bushire, p. 73 — at Shiraz, by the Minister,
p. 111-6 — by the Mehmandar, p. 118 — at Ispahan, by
the Beglerheg, p. 172 — at Teheran, by the Prime
Minister, p. 194 — by the King, 207 — at Tabriz, by
the son of the Minister, p. 285 — at Arz-roum, by the
Governor, p. 323 — at Caraja, by the Aga, p. 333

Etiquettes of Persia, p. 285

Euphrates, sources of, p. 306 — eastern river, p. 309,
310, 31 1— western, p. 3?5. 3 l J9

European dress and discipline introduced into Persia,
p. 30. 32. 108. 184. 188. 207

Excavated rocks, p. 340. 313

Executioner, chief see Nasakehee Bashce

Extortion of the Dcrveishes, p. 32

Failee tribe, p. 240-2

Fakir, p. 194

" Fall" in Hafiz, p. 229

Farz or Farsistan, p. 7. 49 — administration of, p. 110 —

frontier, p. 153
Fasa, Bolouk and city of, p. 233
Fatme, tomb of, at Room, p. 180 — sister of Hossein,

p. 195
Fauces Hyreania> ? p. 287
Female household at Teheran, p. 225
Ferdousi, p. 186
Ferosh Bashee, p. 68. 70
Ferrajoula Khan, Nasakehee Bashee of the King,

p. 204. 207. 261
Filial respect in the East, see p. Ill — see at Tabriz,

p. 286
Fire-altar, p. 121
Fire temple near Pcrsepolis, p. 128 — at Mesjid Madre

Suleiman, p. 146
Fire-works at Shiraz, p. 113— at Ispahan, p. 172 — at

Teheran, p. 207. 210
Fire-eater at Shiraz, p. 1 12
Firman of Persia, p. 231
Firouzabad, ruins of, p. 234
Fleet of the Imauin of Muscat, p. 7, 8 — of the Joasmee

pirates, p. 44
Fly-flap, p. 126
Fox, white, at Bushire, p. 64
" Frangistoun," Europe, p. 193. 253
Frat, see Euphrates

Frenchman passing for a Derveish, p. 33
French in Persia, p. 10. 30. 42. 190. 123. 212 — French

treaty, p. 216 — dismissed from Persia, p. 218. 220
Fruit at Bushire, p. 61 — at Teheran, p. 230
Fursung, p. 171, &c. — see p. 149

Galen, authority of, in Persia, p. 230

Galley, Mr. Resident at Bushire, p. 50

Gardanne, General, p. 42. 219, 220

Gardens in Persia ; at Kauzeroon, p. 92 — at Shiraz,

p. 105, &c
Gate of the palace, busiiv ss transacted at, p. 210
Gauzir-seng, town near Teheran, p. 251-2
Genoese, works of the, p. 352
Ceredeh, p. 356

Germania, Ker mania, or Carmania, p. 49
" Germesir," p. 49 — again, p. 270

INDEX.

431

Geroustan, mountains of, p. 261

Gez, near Ispahan, p. 174

Ghilan, silk of, p. 231— language of, p. 288

Giaours, works of the, at Arz-roum, p. 322 — again,

p. 337 *
" Gika," ornament of rank, p. 208
Girid, game of, p. 77

Gombroon, ( Bender* Jbassay, p. 31), p. 31
Goudar, tribe of, p. 288

" Goulams," slaves of the King's body guard, p. 243
Goush Khoneh at Ispahan, p. 172
Grabs, Arab vessels, p. 8

Grampus, possibly the whale of Arrian, p. 50
Grass, common property in Persia, p. 339
Greek church at Arz-roum, p. 322 — inscription at

Nakshi Rustam, &c
Guadel, cape and town, p. 4. 50
Guebreabad, p. 177
Guebres in Persia, p. 234
Gulistan, p. 213
Gum Tragacanth, p. 231
Gumuck Khoneh, p. 332

" Gumrukchee," Collector of the Customs, p. 323
Guzarat, land of the, p. 2

Hafiz, tomb of, p. 104 — his odes sung, p. 114 — Der-
veish of the tomb, p. 143 — superstition connected
with his works, p. 229

ffaji Hamza, p. 352

Hakim, the governor of a city, p. 235

Halisse, crown lands of Persia, p. 238

Hallilah peak, p. 9 — village of, p. 59

Halys, river, p. 352

Ilamadan (Ecbatana, p. 233) Prince of, p. 208

Hamamlee, p. 355

Hannibal, tomb of, p. 352

Haooz Sultan, p. 182

Harem, the Podargus of Arrian, p. 52

Harem, royal, at Ispahan, p. 166 — at Teheran, p. 225 —
supplied by the Ameen-ed-dowlah, p. 239

Hares eaten by the Persians, p. 230

" Hashl-behesht.'''' eight Paradises at Ispahan, p. 163

Hassan Caleh, p. 317-8

Hawks at Bushire, p. 64-5

Head dress in Persia, p. 246

" Heft-ten" pleasure-house at Shiraz, p. 104

Henna, used in dying beards, p. 231

Herbert, Sir Thomas, p. 5, note, 137

Herring, from the Caspian, "King of Fishes," p. 230

Hieratemis, of Arrian, p. 52

Hodja, schoolmaster, p. 333

Honey of Kauzeroon, p. 93 — of Shiraz and Teheran, p.

230
" Hoobara," bustard, p. 61. 65
Horse of the Dashlistan, &c. p. 62 — of the Turcomans,

p. 62. 289 — character of the Arab and Persian

horses, p. 63. 82 — races, p. 210 — horses painted, p.

210 — horsemanship of the Prince Royal, p. 280 — of

the Persians and Turks, p. 281
Hospitality of the Turcomans, p. 289
Hossein, ceremonies of the death of, p. 194-7, see

p. 216
Hossein Ali Mirza, Prince of Shiraz, p. 109. 117. 192

— his present to the King, p. 208
Hot wind on the coast of Mekran, p. 6 — in the Gulph

of Persia, p. 7
Hot springs at Hassan Kaleh, p. 318— at Ilija, p. 325—

near Kuley Hissar, p. 338
Household of the King of Persia, p. 217. 239— female.

p. 225
Hummocks of Kenn, Gulph of Persia, p. 9

1— J

Jaffer Am Kuan, English Agent at Shiraz, p. 29 —

English letter from, p. 31 — character of, p. 43 — see

p. 189. 192
Jaffer Khan, King of Persia, p. 16
" Jan-baz" one who plays away his soul, p. 242
Janik, port of, p. 338. 341
Janizaries, p. 31
Jasques, cape, p. 6. 48, 49. 124
" Jelowdars," grooms, p. 64. 69
Jemidars of the Envoy's guard, p. 194
Jemsheed,p- 125. 129. 140. 167
Jemsheed's Harem, p. 142
Jenghiz Khan, portrait of, p. 167 — took Rey, p. 233

■ — plundered Sultanieh, p. 259
Jerboa, p. 64 — description of, p. 65-7
Jewels of the King, p. 214

" Jezaerchi," men who use blunderbusses, p. 30
Joasmee Pirates capture the Sylph, are defeated by the

Nereide, p. 44-6. 58 — destroyed, see note at the end,

p. 371
Jones, Sir Harford, Envoy Extraordinary, passim,

see conduct throughout the negociations, p. 199-

203
Jooyum, district of tobacco, p. 19

432

INDEX.

Jouannin, M. p. 220. 264. 280

Jukes, Dr. p. 37. 52. 69. 229

Julfa, suburb of Ispahan, p. 168

Jusuff, Pacha, Grand Vizier, p. 336. 338. 341

Ibrahim, Hajee, Vizier of Aga Mahomfd Khik, p.

211.210 — put to death by the present King, p. 221
Ibrahim Pacha, governor of Bayazid, p. 306
Ice (reservoir of) at Shiraz, p. 123 — at Teheran, p.

228
Ichthyophagi, on the coast of Mekran, p. 50
Ilija, warm springs at, p. 325
Imaum, parish priest, p. 333
Indian figures at Shapour, p. 90
Indigo in Persia, p. 231
Inscriptions at Tahrie, p. 51 — at Reshirc, p. 59 — at

Shapour, p. 87 — at A'akshi Rustam, p. 126-7 — gilt at

Persepolis, p. 137 — ntJtfesjed Madre Suleiman, p. 144

— at Ret/, p. 233 — at Sultanieh, p. 258, see p. 263.

267 — at Mama Khatoun, p. 328 — at Cherkes, p. 355 —

at Boli, p. 357- see plate xxix
Introduction to the Prince at Sliiraz, p. 107 — to the

King at Teheran, p. 186 — again, p. 214
Inundation, p. 213
Irak, animosity of the people of, to those of Fars, p.

157
Iris, river, now the Tozzan Irmak, p. 343
Ish Agassi, master of the ceremonies at Shiraz, p. 100.

108 — at Teheran, p. 188
Isker Sou, village of, p. 34
Islands in the Gulph of Persia, p- 6. 52
Ismael Beg, a favourite at Shiraz, p. 1 18. 120
Ismael Br.G Damgaunee, a favourite at the Court of

Teheran, p. 216. 243
Ismid, ancient Nicomedia, p. 361
Ispahan, p. 159-173 — reception of the Envoy, p. 161 —

extent of the city, p. 161 — general view, p. 169 —

inundation at, p. 213 — people of, ridiculed at Shiraz,

p. 114 — character of, p. Ml
lspahanek, village of, p. 157. 159
Istakbal, p. 76, &c. (see p. 85, at Kauzeroon,) at Shiraz,

p. 97, &c.
Istakhar, distinct from Persepolis, p. 129

Kabob, roast meat, p. 324 — shops at Ispahan, p. 171

Kaduck, a liner cloth, p. 156. 231

Kalaat, dress of honour, p. 26 — at Shiraz, p. 120 — at

Teheran, p. 216 — numbers distributed by the King,

p. 205

Kalaat poshoon, near Shiraz, p. 123

Kaleoon, water pipe, p. 13, &c. bb—Kaleoon of state,

at Shiraz, p. 109 — at Teheran, p. 214
Kamchaucks, the, p. 290

Kamouncha, a species of violin, p. 113, see p^225
Kanauts, aqueducts, p. 147, &c. — making, p. 253
Kara Colagh, p. 330
Kara guzlou, tribe, p. 37. 122
" Kara Khader," black tents, p. 288. 302
Kara Sou, river, p. 325—- another, p. 337
Karatch, village near Teheran, p. 250
Kashan, p. 177— well at, p. 178, note— manufactures,

p. 231 — character of the people, p. 241
Katif, El, pearl bank at, p. 53
Kauzeroon, p. 83. 92
Kaveer, p. 182
Kelki Irmak, p. 337. 342
Kelounter, the revenue collector, p. 235
Kemeen, village near Persepolis, p. 143
Kcnn, Island, gold dust in the torrents, p. 52
Kerim Khan, Recent of Persia, p. 101— his works at

Shiraz, p. 101-7. 221 — treasures of, p. 238
Kerim Khan, bearer of the King's letter, p. 95
Ket Khoda, the chief of a village, p. 235
Khalcal, district of, p. 284
Khaloet Khaneh, private hall of audience at Teheran,

p. 188 — at Sultanieh, p. 260
Khan, a military title, p. 235
Khan, a caravanserai, p. 345
Khandaek, village of, p. 359— character of the people,

p. 360
Kharrack, island of, p. 53, 54. 69
Kharrack, town on the coast of Persia, p. 51
Khaumavidge, p. 83, 84
Kheleel Khav, Ilajee, p. 39
Khcnna, a dye, p. 231. 247
Khisht, plain of, p. 80, 81
Khoi, city and plain of, p. 298
Khona Kerguun, p. 147
Khoneh Khorreh, p. 148

Khorasftan, Prince of, p. 241, see Mesched, p. 208
Khoresser, (Gulph of Persia), p. 51
Khorremderre', p. 256
Khosh amedeed, p. 39. 96, compared with the Khosh

gueldin of the Turks, p. 313, seep. 189
Khosh aub (see Busheab, p. 7), near Bushire, p. 76
Khour-c-Shooteur, river, near Koom, p. 180
Kinar-a-gird, p. 182, 183. 250
King of Persia, marble throne, p. 188 — throne of the

INDEX.

433

peacock, p. 191 — appearance and character, p. 191
— dress, p. 192. 212. 214 — conversations, p. 190.
212. 215. 218, 219 — condescension and kindness to
the Envoy, p. 219-20

Kishmis, Island of, Gulph of Persia, p. 6

Kizzil Ozan, river of, p. 266. 287

Kohrood, town and valley of, p. 176

Komeshah, p. 155

Konar-a-tackta, p. 81

" Koolafrange," Frank's hat at Shiraz, p. 106. 117 — at
Teheran, p. 214. 218— at Sultanii-h, p. 260

Koom, city of, p. 179 — ruins a holy city, p. 180 — ma-
nufactures, p. 231 — see p. 289

Koran, village of, p. 251

Kuley Hissar, p. 337

Kulzum, see of, p. 290, note

Kummund, noose used in war, p. 242

Kunjurs, daggers, p. 112, &c 125. 215

Kuprigli, Grand Vizier, p. 358

" Kymack,'" clouted cream, p. 326

Lacs, tribe of the, p. 240

Landed property hereditary, p. 237

Landscape scenery, (see at Tabriz, p. 294,) at Mama

Looft Ali Khan, p 16. 181

Lycus, ancient, now the KeCki Irmak, p. 337

Maaden Kebbac, names at, p. 329. 344

Macis, mountain of Ararat, p. 306

Mahomed Ali Khan, Prince of Hamadan, p. 208

Mahomed Hassan Khan Karaguzlou, p. 37. 41 —
sent from Shiraz, p. 122

Mahomed Hossein Khan, Ameen-ed-dowlah, p. 166-
170-1 — his house, p. 184 — visits the Envoy, p. 185 —
receives the Envoy, p. 195. 199 — present to the
King, p. 208. 210, 21 1. 216. 221

Mahomed Hussein Khan Mervee, p. 188

Mahomed Jaffer, vice Governor of Buihire, p. 25,
26, 27. 38

Mahomed Khan, Mehmandar of Shiraz, p. 123

Mahomed Nebee Khan, Persian Embassador to Cal-
cutta, p. 23 — history of, note, p. 23 — Governor of
Bushire, p. 23. 25. 27. 71. 73. 75

Mahomed Zeky Khan, the Mehmandar, p. 42. 69. 118.
122

Maidan Shah, at Ispahan, p. 169

Malcolm, Brigadier General, p. 23. 31. 83. [p. 199.]

Malceat, original right of the crown, p. 236

Khaloun, p. 327— at Chiflik, p. 330— at Carajar, p. \ Malta, p. 318

331 — Cara Hissar, p. 334 — Kuley Hissar, p. 338 — Mama Khatoun, village of, p. 327 — tradition of its

near Nicksar, p. 341 — Coja Hissar, p. 353 — Boli.
p. 359

Langarood, village of, p. 179

Language of Persia, p. 262. 271. 288

Laristan, p. 49

Latin inscription at Armaghanih, p. 263

Le Brun, p. 106. 129. 133, 134. 136. 243

Letters from Jaffer Ali Khan in English, p. 31 —
from the King of Persia, p. 95. 149. 183. 219 — from
the King of England, p. 160 — from the Governor
General, p. 219 — letter from a Persian to the Envoy
in English, p. 203

Linn^us, note, p. 260

Lion of Persia, p. 62. 64 — at Shiraz, p. 120 — at Teheran,
p. 187 — combat with an ox, p. 209 — lion in stone
over a tomb at Derces, p. 85 — at Deshl-e-arjun,
p. 94 — at Komeshah, p. 156 — at Sihin Caleh, p. 257 —
at Khore, p. 301

Liquorice, wild, near Persepolis, p. 129
Loane, Mr. prisoner among the pirates, p. 44
" Lokmah," paste puff, p. 324

l.ooties, mountebanks, p. 209, 210

foundation, p. 328

Mama Selameh, p. 6

Manantour, village of, p. 32 9

Mandelsloe, p. 133. 136

Marble of Tabriz, p. 104, 105. 163. 278

Marcivan, p. 350

Mares, herds of, p. 263, 304

Marmot, p. 260

Mat-houses of Guadel, p. 5

" Maun," 7ilbs. p. 92. 110

Maxhood Beggy, p. 154

Mayar, p. 157

Mazanderan, p. 287

" Meals " clubs, p. 85

Medicine of Persia, p. 229

Medresse, Shah Sultan Hossein college, at Ispahan, p

163 — Medresse Jedeh, p. 164
Meer Sakee, p. 177
Mehmandar, office of, p. 36- 73- 293 — appointed to the

Mission, p. 42. 101
Mekran, coast of, p. 3-6. 49
Melons at Sayin, p. 17<*

434

INDEXC.

Mammeh Sunni, p. 82
Meraugheh, town of, p. 278
Merchants of Persia, p. 231

Merdasht, plain of, p. 49. 124— covered with antiqui-
ties, p. 125
Mesched, Prince of, p- 208
Meshed Omoun, p. 143
Mesjid Madre Suleiman, p. 144
Miauneh, village of, p. 266-70

Military establishment of Persia: at Shiraz, p. 110 —

at Teheran, p. 240— at Tabriz, p. 282— see p. 241—

and generally, p. 240— at Zengan, p. 261— military

qualities, p. 281. 366

Mineral springs, p. 78

Mines of silver, p. 238— of iron, p. 283— of lead, p.

284
Minou, on the Gulph of Persia, p. 49
Miri, p. 338

Mirza, hereditary title of Persia, p. 234
Mirza Abul Hassan, late Envoy to the Court of Lon-
don, p. 36. 149. 353. 364— history of, 220-3
Mirza Bozurk, minister at Tabriz,?. 282
Mirza Hassan, son of Mirza Bozurk, p. 285
Mirza Reza, Embassador to Buonaparte, p. 193.

216. 253
" Mirza of Nusserabad," p. 178

Moharrem, p. 173. 180. 188— ceremonies of, p. 194-7
Moll ah Suleiman, p. 315
Monze, cape, p. 5
" Moobarek" p. 6
Moodjdeh, p. 332
Moodjdehlook, p. 42. 93
Moran, cape, p. 3
Morghaub, p. 143. 147
Mosques of Shiraz, p. 102— of Ispahan, p. 170— of

Teheran, p. 225
Moss, village of, p. 329
" Moss," curdled milk, p. 252
Mountain Robbers, p. 83
Mourchelcourd, battle of, p. 175
" Mujlis," an assembly, p- 206
Mules, p. 353
Mullak alviote, p. 183

Muscat, Imaum of, p. 7— pearl trade of, p. 53
Music, p. 113, 111
Musseldom, cape, p. 6. 51

Naion, cape, p. 7— pearl shoal, p. 53

Naoir Shah, p. 16 — portrait of, p. 165 — victory of,

jp. 175 — death, p. 221 — treasures, p. 265
Aaikshi Rustam, (see p. 89), p. 125-9, see p. 201
JVuiptha, springs of, p. 78 — applied to the skins of

<camels, p. 78 — flame little calid, p. 113
JV.'arangisioun, green house at Ispahan, p. 167
JVuisakchec Bashee, chief executioner, office of rank
Hinder the Prince at Shiraz, p. 19 — under the King at

Teheran, p. 204. 207 — conduct to the Mission, p. 34
NavSR Oalah Khan, minister at Shiraz, p. 101, 102.

110. 117
Nautilus, cruiser, attacked by the pirates, p. 43
Aaizir, p. 201. 369

JS'c-garistan, summer palace at Teheran, p. 227
Neigociations begun at Bushlre, p. 29. 34. 37. 41 — at
.Shiraz, p. 117 — at Ispahan, p. 159 — at Teheran, p.

198-203, seep. 212-3. 216
Nierciat, M. p. 220. 280
JV'eshki character, p. 59
Xhebuhr, p. 16, note 133. 135
JV"iksar, ancient JVescaesarea, p. 342
Niitrous acid, p. 78
A^okara Khoneh, near Persepolis, p. 125 — at Ispahan,

p. 170 — at Teheran, p. 209
yioory tribe, one of the new-modelled corps, p. 30.

42
Niorooz, eve of, p. 204 — history and ceremonies of the,

p. 204-6, seep. 237. 240
Nd)Rooz Khan, master of the ceremonies at the Court

of Teheran,?. 184. 188
Ntowri, village of, p. 255
ymsscrabad, p. 178

Ohces, of copper, p. 345

Or^EARius, p. 136. 287

Oilivier, p. 16, note

Onnan, province of, p. 8

Omar, name of, p. 62 — Omar Coushen, day of, p, 249

Onnen of a serpent, p. 316

Ormuz, island of, p. 52

Oroumi, town of, p. 305

Osimanjik, town of, p. 352

Otour, river, p. 298

Otttf.r, p. 359

Oiuseley, Sir Gore, Bart. p. 36

Oxen, used in ploughing, p. 261. 275 — as beasts of

burthen, p. 300
3

INDEX.

435

Pacha, mode of investiture, p. 332

Paintings in Persia, at Shiraz, p. 105, 106 — at Ispiahan,

p. 165. 167 — at Teheran, p. 192. 227
Pak-har, the servant of the Ket Khoda, p. 235 — psalaces
of the King at Shiraz, p. 107— at Ispahan, p. 16J4-8 —
at Teheran, p. 187- 226— at Sultanieh, p. 260
Palma Christi, at Shapour, p. 92
Partridges on trees, p. 64—" Toowee," desert partiridge,

p. 77
Pasagardos, p. 145

Passage of the mountains, p. 80. 82
Passangoor, -village of, p. 179
Pavilion of the clock, p. 170
Peacocks, favourites in Persia, p. 214
Pearl fishery, p. 44— described, p. 52-6— two kimds of
pearls, p. 53 — mode of speculation, p. 53 — diivers,
p. 54 — consistency of the pearl, p. 55
<; Peera Zun" mountain, p. 94
Peish-kesh, a tax, the " benevolence" of Persiia, p.

237
Peish-namuz, chief priest, p. 33. 40
Penmanship, importance of, in Persia, p. 217
Pennant, note, p. 260
Perth, near Khoi, p. 300
Persepolis, first view, p. 129— description, p. 12«9-137,

see p. 201
PersepolUan character, at Tahrie, p. 51 — at JMvsjid

Madr6 Suleiman, p. 144— at Fasa, p. 234
Persia, outlines of the geography, p. 48
Persian dress, p. 38. 243-8 — horse equipage, p. 38 —
horses, p. 62-3— riding, p. 77. 82— skulls, p. Ill— -na-
tional character compared with the Turks, p. 362-6
— their voyage, p. 367
Persian Secretary taken by the Pirates, p. 45
Pesani, city of, note, p. 4
Pigeons, abundance of, p. 123 — see p. 155
Pile Rudbar, pass of, p. 287
Pillau, p. 324
Plough near Bushire, p. 60 — near SultanUh, p. 2€1 —

near Tabriz, p. 275
Podargus of Arrian, p. 52
Poet, the chief, p. 185-6. 195
PoolDallauk, p. 180. 213
Pool Hajoo, at Ispahan, p. 170
Pool Khan, bridge over the Bund-emir, p. 124
Poplars, almost the only wood of Aderbigian, p>. 274.

277
Population of Persia, p. 155. 240— of Ispahan, jp. 171 1 Roselkeim, p. 44

3 K 2

— of Tabriz, p. 284 — of Khoi, p. 299 — of Jrz-roum,
p. 322

Portuguese establishments at Guadel, p. 4— at Cape
Buslion, p. 51 — at Re$hire,j>. 59

Posmee, cape, p. 4

Post-houses, established through the north of Persia,
p. 269-70— see p. 354— in Turkey, p. 357

Pour-bunder, in the Guzarat, p. 2

Presents, custom of, in Persia, p. 205. 36. 73. 101. 121
— anecdote at Komeshah, p. 156 — from the Prince
at Shiraz, p. 97 — again, p. 120 — from the King of
England, p. 186 — from Mirza Sheffeea, p. 194 —
from the King of Persia to the Envoy, p. 204. 215 —
to his court, p. 205 — presents to the King, p. 208 —
to the Envoy, p. 204

Princes of Persia, p. 121. 192. 210 — their numbers, p.
226 — their presents to the King, p. 208 — Prince of
Shiraz — see Hossein Ali Mirza

Purlun, p. 326

p. 119 — at Teheran, p.

Qujar, (see Cadjar), p. 241
Quoins, islands of the, p. 6

Races at Teheran, p. 210
liamazan, fast of, p. 40, 41
Rams, combat of, at Shiraz

208
Ranks in Persia, p. 234
Rate of travelling, p. 181
Rayats of Persia, p. 235
Reshire, ruins of, p. 10 — described, p. 58
Resht, manufactures at, p. 231
Resident's guard at Bushire, p. 58
Revenue of Persia, p. 236 — of Fars, p. 110 — of

Aderbigian, p. 284— of Khalcal, p. 284 — of Khoi, p.

299
Rey, ruins of, ancient Rhages, p. 232
Rhadars, stations of, p. 82. 96. 123. 296
Richardson, on the Norooz, p. 205-6
Road, ancient, p. 232
Rocknabad, stream of, p. 123
Rodo-dendron, p. 92
Rhohella, p. 160

Roman figures at Shapour, p. 87. 88. 90. 127
" Roo sefeed" " roo seeah," p. 31
Rope dancers at Shiraz, p. Ill— at Teheran, p. 208

436

INDEX.

Russian war, p. 30. 93. 211. 255. 276. 291— prisoners

at Shiraz, p. 118
Rustam, p. 140. 201

Saatahad, pavilion of, p. 162

Sabanja, lake of, p. 360 — town, p. 361

Sacrifice of bullocks at Bushire, p. 75 — of a lamb in

Asia Minor, p. 341
Sader, a tax, p. 237

Sahat, measure of an hour, p. 305. 326
Sal ben Sal, pirate chief, p. 44
Salmas, sculptures at, p. 299
Salmon, from the Caspian, p. 231
Salter, Captain, p. 50
Salt soil, p. 174. 227. 293— salt desert, p. 179. 183,

184
Savock Bolagh, ancient Shererivan, p. 296
Sagim, village near Ispahan, p. 174
Sculptures at Shapour, p. 87-91 — at Nakshi Rustam, p.

125-8 — at Persepo/is, p. 129-36 — near it, p. 137-9 —

at Sultanith, p. 259 — at Salmas, p. 299
Scutari, p. 362

Sealy, Lieutenant of the Ternale, p 69
Sefer, month of, p. 213
Seffis, Princes of the house of, p. 153. 155. 157. 162.

165. 168. 175, 177. 230— works of, p. 227. 233. 254.

271-2. 268
Seidoun, village of, p. 142
Seiks, p. 50

Ser-aub, effect of the vapour, p. 294
" Ser-baz," one who plays away his head, p. 242
" Ser-kecheckchee," p. 242
Sertes, cape, p. 51

Sewuvd, village of, p. 142 — river of, p. 129. 137. 142
Siiah Thamas, p. 162
Shah Zade Frcng, p. 167
Shahec, lake of, p. 278. 294-5
Shapon-, river of, p. 82 — city, p. 84 — visited, p. 85 —

sculptures, p. 87-91 — they're, p. 91 — subterraneous

passages, p. 92 — sculptures compared with those near

Persepolis, p. 126, 127. 130, seep. 201
Shawls of Herman, p. 231 — of Cashmire, p. 246
Shebeslcr, town of, p. 295
Sheep skins, p 246

Sheik Ali Khan, one of the King's sons, p. 253
Sheik Nasr, of Eushhe, history of, p. 16 — mode of

summons to his standard, p. 17, 18. 77
Shem-Iroun, village of, p. 213

Sheridan, Mr. Thomas Henry, p. I, 2. 69
Shei/ahs and Sunnis, p. 57. 62. 157
Shegran, district of, p. 332

Ship-building, p. 283 — ships on the Caspian, p. 287
Shiraz, approach to, p. 97 — entrance, p. 100 — descrip-
tion of, p. 102-7 — departure from, p. 122— trade of.

p. 231
Shirley, Sir Robert, note, p. 5
Shoolgistoun, village of, p. 152
Shousler, city of, p. 221, 222. 231
Seah Daleh, village of, p. 257
Seah Dehan, village of, p. 257
Silk of Ghilan and Mazanderan, p. 231
Simmons, Captain, p. 58
Singular exhibition of a negro, p. 112
Sin Sin, caravanserai at, p. 179
Skeine, Captain, p. 52
Sleep, little necessary, p. 353
Smith, Mr. Hankey, Resident at Bushire, p. 33
Smoking in Persia, kaleoons, p. 13 — apparatus, p. 70 —

ceremonies, p. 286
Smyrna, p. 366
Soap wort, p. 183
" Sofra," p. 74
Soleiman, the Caleph, p. 145 — the Shah of Persia,

p. 230
Solomon, p. 149
Sonnini, on the Jerboa, p. 65-7
Soundings in the Gulph of Persia, p. 9
Sphinxes at PerscvoHs, p. 130. 133. 135
Spoons as a musical instrument, p. 113
Sports of the Bairam, p. 41
Springs under the sea, p. 52
Storm at Bushire, p. 60 — at Khona Korreh, p. 148 — in

Aderbigian, p. 302 — at Arz-roum, p. 326 — near Ca-

raja, p. 334. 337 — at Cherkes, p. 355
Success, frigate, p. 366
Sugar candy, bottles of, broken in honour of the Envoy,

p. 84. 97. 124. 143
Suliattith, ruins and tomb of, p. 257 — new city, p 259
Sunnis, p. 50. 57. 62. 157
Superstitions, of Indian sailors, p. 6— of Persia, p. 62.

213. 230— Hafiz, p. 229
Surat, pearl market at, p. 53
Surmek, p. 149

" Surujees" conductors, p. 357
Swallow, white, at Bushire, p. 61
Sweetmeats, p. 13. 72. 171, see p. 208
Smith, Major L. F. p. 1

INDEX.

437

Tabriz, city of, 276-9— marble of, p. 104, 105, 163.
278

Tahric, ruins and sculptures at, p. 51

Takhl-a-Kadjar at Shiraz,-p. 107 — at Teheran, p. 226-7

Takht-a-J a?nsheed,y>. 129

Takht-a-tovos ; throne of the peacock, p. 191

Takht-e-ravan, letter, p. 158. 161. 180. 187, 188

Talamash, M. singular story of, note, p. 33

Tamarisk trees, p. 76

Tamerlane, bund of, p. 124 — portrait of, 167

Tangistoun, p. 51

Tasonj, village of, p. 297

Tatars, p. 332. 356

Teheran, p. 180-2 — first view, p, 183 — description of,
p. 224 — unwholesome, p. 229 — contrasted with Con-
stantinople, p. 364

Tchmis? p. 231— qu. Tchmeh, p. 245

Tcngui Ali Acbar, near Shiraz, p. 106. 122 — near Sul-
tanieh, p. 257

Tengui Turkoun, mountain pass, p. 84

Tents, comforts of, p. 302

Terraced roofs at Arz-roum, p. 321

Thaubet, the, Governor of a town, p. 235

Theatre, r< mains of, at Shapour, p. 91

Theft, punishment of, in Persia, p. 204

Throne of the King of Persia, marble, p. 188 — of the
peacock, p. 191

Tigris, source of the, p. 325

Timber, mode of felling, p. 339. 359

Tiimur Beg, history of, p. 313

Tobacco, monopoly of, p. 19

Tocal, p. 344

Tomaun, nearly equal to a pound sterling, p. 21

Tomb of the son of Kerim Khan, p. 103 — «f Hafiz,
at Shiraz, p. 104 — tombs at A'akshi Ruslam, p. 125.
128 — at Persepolis, p. 132 — at Mesjed Madre Sulei-
man, p. 144 — tomb of Cyrus? p. 145 — of Shah
Reza, near Komeshah, p. 156 — tomb near Kohrood,
p. 177 — of Imaum Reza. p. 180 256 — of his sister,
p. 180 — of his son, 249 — of a wife of Imaum Hossein,
p. 233 — of Sin tan Mahomed Khodabendeh, at
Sullan'<6h, p. 257 — of ^hemsb, near Khoi, p. 300 —
ancient tombs at Moss, p. 329 — at Cherkes, p. 355—
at Bolt, p. 357

Tombs, the, islands, p. 6. 43

Tos>'a, p. 353

Tourchiz, capture of, p. 265

Tozzan Irniak, river, p. 343. 345

Trade of Persia, see p. 237. 239
Travelling, rate of, p. 181 — mode of, p. 292-3
Treasures of the King of Persia, p. 238. 265
Treaties signed, p. 201-3 — former treaty of Persia with

France, p. 216
Trebisonde, p. 322. 332
Tribes of Persia, p. 240
Tribute of Persia, p. 236-8- 240
Tumbling, p. 112
Tumuli, or Tape, p. 251
Turcomans, p. 77. 288-90
Turcomcn Cheyee, village of, p. 270
Turkhal, p. 345
Turkish soldiery, (see Delhi* Bayrack), p. 358 — navy,

p. 364 — entertainment, p. 323
Turks and Persians, p. 362-6
Turpah Caleh, siege of, p. 312 — reception at the castl«

of, p. 313-4

V
Fan, city and lake of, p. 296. 303
Verdistan, cape, p. 9. 43 — shoal of, p. 53
Vincent, Dr. p. 3. 52
Vines in Persia, p. 251. 253— mode of cultivation at

Tabriz, p. 277
Vishna, sour cherry, p. 338
Visit, Persian, p. 13.39-40. 72
Volcanoes, near Saidabad, p. 273 — near Tabriz, p. 277 —

volcanic matter, p. 305

Wahabees, p. 52. 222. 372

" fVaky," landed property in Persia, p. 237

H'allz, p. 365

Water of Bushire, p. 60 — of Teheran, p. 229

Water-cresses, p. 227

Water-mill, ancient custom attached to, p. 240

Weather at Bushire, p. 61 — at Teheran, p. 230 — at Arz-
roum, p. 326

Well, p. 175 — marvellous at Kashan, p. 178

Wheeled carriages, p. 300

Wigs of the ancient Persians, p. 89

Willock, Cornet Henry, now Lieutenant Commander
of the Body Guard, p. 1, 2. 37. 69. 118. 187

Wind chimnies at Bushire, p. 57

Wine in Persia, p. 166

Wolves, p. 359

Women of Bushire, p. 61 — of Diadine, p. 310 — gene-
rally, of Persia, p. 368-70 — education of, p. 369 —
beauty, p. 368

438

INDEX.

Wood, scarcity of, (in the Gulph), p. 141 — at Ispahan,
p. 160 — in Aderbigian, 272 — near Arz-roum, p. 326 —
abundance of, in Asia Minor, p. 334, &c. p. 359—
compare, p- 354

Wrestlers; at Shiraz, p. 119 — at Teheran, p. 209

" Yakn6," Irish stew, p. 324

" Yaourt" curdled milk, p. 252

" Yeduk" a led horse, p. 38

Yezd, marble of, p. 188 — shawls and stuffs of, p. 208

Yezd, Prince of, p. 208

Yezdiekhaust, p. 152 — town and valley of

Yezid, the Caliph, in the celebration of the Mohar-

rem, p. 195-6. 216
Youngali, village of, p. 311-2
Yusuff Beg, at Shiraz, p. 101— query Ismael Beg,

p. 118. 120

Zaianderood, river of Ispahan, p. 160. 168. 1T4 — over-

flows, p. 213
Zain Labadeen, Brother of Hossein, p. 196
Zain Labadeen, Chief Secretary and Private Minister

to the Prince at Shiraz, p. 100. 117. 122
" Zapti Shah," property forfeited to the King, p. 237
Zaul Khan, Governor of Khist ; his history, p. 80
Zauviih, village of, p. 301
Zebra at Vienna, p. 193
Ziera, village of, p. 82
Zenana, p. 166
Zengan, village of, p. 261
Zergoon, plain and town of, p. 124
" Zomboorek," artillery on camels, p. 108 — at Teheran,

p. 210
Zoroaster, works of, p. 234
Zund, dynasty of the Royal Family of, p. 150. 243

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»: