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JOURNEY 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 PERSIA, 
 
 ARMENIA, AND ASIA MINOR, 
 
 TO 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, 
 
 IN THE YEARS 1808 AND 1809; 
 
 IN WHICH IS INCLUDED, 
 
 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF HIS MAJESTY'S 
 MISSION, UNDER SIR HARFORD JONES, BART. K. C. 
 
 TO THE COURT OF THE KING OF PERSIA. 
 
 BY JAMES MORIER, ESQ. 
 
 HIS MAJESTY'S SECRETARY OF EMBASSY TO THE COURT OF PERSIA. 
 
 WITH TWENTY-FIVE ENGRAVINGS FROM THE DESIGNS OF THE AUTHOR ; 
 A PLATE OF INSCEIPTIONS ; AND THREE MAPS; 
 
 ONE FROM THE OBSERVATIONS OF CAPTAIN JAMES SUTHERLAND : AND 
 TWO DRAWN BY MR. MORIER. AND MAJOR RENNELL. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER-ROW, 
 
 1812. 
 
mm 
 
 m 
 
 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 h IN DING, on my arrival in England, that curiosity was quite alive 
 to every thing connected with Persia, I was induced to publish the 
 Memoranda which I had already made on that country ; more imme- 
 diately as I found that I had been fortunate enough to ascertain some 
 facts, which had escaped the research of other travellers. In this, I 
 allude more particularly to the sculptures and ruins of Shapour; for 
 although my account of them is on a very reduced scale, yet I hope 
 that I have said enough to direct the attention of abler persons than 
 myself to the investigation of a new and curious subject. 
 
 Imperfect as my journal may be, it will, I hope, be found suffi- 
 ciently comprehensive to serve as a link in the chain of information on 
 Persia, until something more satisfactory shall be produced; and it 
 claims no other merit than that of having been written on the very spots, 
 and under the immediate circumstances, which I have attempted to 
 describe. Having confined myself, with very few exceptions, to the 
 relation of what I saw and heard, it will be found unadulterated by 
 partiality to any particular system, and unbiassed by the writings and 
 dissertations of other men. Written in the midst of a thousand cares, 
 it claims every species of indulgence. 
 
Vlll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The time of my absence from England comprehends a space of 
 little more than two years. — On the 27th of Oct. Ib07, I sailed from 
 Portsmouth with Sir Harford Jones, Bart. K. C. His Majesty's 
 Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of 
 Persia, in H. M. S. Sapphire, Captain George Davies : after having 
 touched at Madeira and at the Cape of Good Hope, we reached 
 Bombay on the 26th of April, 1808 : owing to some political arrange- 
 ments we did not quit Bombay till the 12th September. We arrived at 
 Bushire on the 13th October, and proceeded towards the Persian 
 capital on the 13th December. H. M. Mission reached Teheran on the 
 14th February, 1809 : on the 12th March the preliminary treaty was 
 signed between Sir Harford Jones and the Persian Plenipoten- 
 tiaries; and on the 7th May I quitted Teheran with Mirza Abul 
 Hassan, the King of Persia's Envoy Extraordinary to the Court of 
 London, with whom I reached Smyrna on the 7th September, and em- 
 barked there on board H. M. S. Success, Captain Ayscough. Having 
 at Malta changed the Success for H. M. S. Formidable, vre finally reached 
 Plymouth on the 25th November, 1809- 
 
 I should be wanting in gratitude, if I did not here express the 
 obligations which I owe to my fellow traveller, Mirza Abul Hassan, 
 the late Persian Envoy Extraordinary, for much information on sub- 
 jects relating to his own country, and for all the facilities of acquiring 
 his language, which his communicative and amiable disposition afforded 
 me. As this personage was distinguished, during his stay in England, 
 by attentions more marked and continued than, perhaps, were ever 
 paid to any foreigner, I have conceived that I should not trespass too 
 much on the patience of my readers by inserting a sketch of his life ;* 
 
 * See Chapter XII. p. 220-3. 
 
PREFACE. ix 
 
 I feel at least that it will prove very acceptable to those who have 
 shown him, as a stranger, so much friendship and hospitality. 
 
 In my narrative I have confined myself to relate our proceedings 
 from the time we left Bombay to my arrival at Constantinople. The 
 sea voyages, from England to India, and from Constantinople to 
 England, are too well known to require any thing more to be written 
 about them. 
 
 The engravings that are inserted are made from drawings which I 
 took on the spot ; they are done in a slight manner, and therefore are 
 more intended to give general ideas, than to enter into any nicety 
 of detail. 
 
 For the map from Bushire to Teheran I am indebted to my friend 
 Captain James Sutherland, of the Bombay army; and for the 
 general one of the countries, through which my route carried me, I 
 must here return my thanks to Major Ren nell, who has furnished me 
 with this valuable document, and who has kindly assisted me in this, as 
 well as on other occasions when I found myself deficient, with his 
 advice and information. The map from Teheran to Amasia is the result 
 of my own observation, corrected by the same masterly hand. It ter- 
 minates at Amasia, because my journey from that place to Const anti' 
 nople was performed as much by night as it was by day, and prosecuted 
 with too great speed to permit me to observe with accuracy. Besides 
 which, in Turkey, where the people are much more jealous and watchful 
 of travellers than in Persia, I found that I could not make my remarks 
 so much at my ease as I wished, although assisted by the disguise of a 
 Persian dress. The courses and distances, noted in the journal, are only 
 to be regarded as a kind of dead reckoning, subject to correction by the 
 application of latitudes in certain places, and of approximated posi* 
 
x PREFACE. 
 
 tions in others; and, in all, by allowances for the inflexions and 
 inequalities of the roads. 
 
 I am indebted to Messrs. Jukes and Bruce, of the Bombay 
 service, for the information which they furnished me whilst I was in 
 Persia, and I have not failed to make my acknowledgments, wherever 
 such information has been inserted. 
 
 But I must, in particular, express my gratitude to Mr. Robert 
 Harry Inglis, for the kindness with which he offered to correct and 
 arrange my memoranda, and prepare my journals for the press.* 
 
 I beg leave to repeat that this volume is meant merely as provi- 
 sional, and that I am far from entertaining the presumption that it 
 will class with the valuable pages of Chardin, Le Brun, Hanway, 
 Niebuhr, or Olivier. It is to be expected, that the extensive com- 
 munication that will be opened with Persia, in consequence of our late 
 political transactions with its court, will throw the whole extent of 
 that very interesting part of the globe under our eognizance ; and that, 
 among other subjects of inquiry, its numerous antiquities, which have 
 as yet been but imperfectly explored, will throw new lights upon its 
 ancient history, manners, religion, and language. 
 
 * The Editor is further responsible for the account of the pirates, and of Shapour ; and 
 for the notes, except those within inverted commas, which are taken from MSS. of Mr. 
 Moiuer. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 1 HE history of Persia from the death of Nadir Shah to the 
 accession of the present King, comprehending a period of fifty-one 
 years, presents little else than a catalogue of the names of tyrants 
 and usurpers, and a succession of murders, treacheries and scenes 
 of misery. 
 
 After the assassination of Nadir, one of the most formidable of 
 the competitors for the vacant throne, was Mahomed Hassan 
 Khan, the head of the Cadjar tribe, and a person of high rank 
 among the nobles of Shah Thamas, the last king of the Seffi race.* 
 
 * The Cadjars, according to Olivier, are a tribe of Turkish origin, who took refuge 
 in Persia under the reign of Shah Abbas I. and received there the name of Cadjars or 
 fugitives. See Foster, ii. 198. The historians of Nadir Shah mention (as one of the 
 chiefs of that tribe, in the time of Shah Tahmas,) Futteh Ali Khan. Olivier states 
 that in 1723 he was nominated to the government of Mazanderan ; and that, when Nadir 
 Shah assumed the crown, he resisted his authority, was defeated and killed. In Jones's 
 Nadir, lib. i. c. xi. there appears a Fethali Khan, whose history accords better with the 
 allusion in the text, p. 242. Compare the Phatali Khan of Bell, vol. i. and Fraser 1 * 
 
 b2 
 
Xll 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Mahomed Hassan Khan had several sons: Hossein Kooli 
 Khan, the eldest, was father to the present King of Persia, and 
 was killed in a battle with the Turcomans : Aga Mahomed Khan, the 
 second son, was the immediate predecessor of his nephew on the 
 throne. 
 
 Mahomed Hassan Khan had not long assumed the crown, when 
 he was opposed by Kerim Khan, a native of Courdistan; who, 
 under pretence of protecting the rights of Ism a el,* a lineal descen- 
 dant of the Seffi family, and then a child, secured to himself so large 
 a share of influence and authority in the state, that he very soon 
 supplanted virtually the pageant that he had erected; and, while he 
 still concealed his ambition under the name of Vakeel or Regent, exer- 
 cised all the real powers of the sovereign of Persia. The birth of 
 Kerim Khan was obscure; but the habits of his early years qualified 
 him for the times in which he lived, and the destiny to which he 
 
 Nadir Shah, p. 89. His eldest son was Mahomed Hassan Khan, whose pretensions 
 and rise and fall are stated fully by Olivier, vol. vi. 13-17-82, and whose history, (under 
 his various names of Baba Khan, Mumtaz Khan, Fultra Alla Khan, &c.) is noticed 
 in Franrlin, p. 299. Ives, p. 220. Foster, vol. ii. 199. Tooke's Catherine, ii. 60> 
 Scott Waring, &c. &c. 
 
 * Ismael was said by his first patron, Ali Merdan Khan Backtyari, to be the son 
 of Seyd Moustaph a, by a daughter of Shah Hussein. Olivier, vi. 21. He was the 
 pageant recognised by three several competitors; he was first proclaimed King by Ali 
 Merdan, again in 1756, by Kerim ; and a third time, in the same year, by Mahomed 
 Hassan, who, like his immediate rivals, and like Nadir, still in his first successes pre* 
 fessed himself to be the slave of the rightful monarch. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xm 
 
 aspired. His family, indeed, was a low branch of an obscure tribe in 
 Courdistan, that of the Zunds, from which his dynasty has been deno- 
 minated ; and his profession was the single occupation of all his coun- 
 trymen, robbery * which, when it thus becomes a national object, loses 
 in reputation all its grossness. Here he acquired the talents and 
 hardihood of a soldier; and was renowned for an effectual spirit of 
 enterprise, and for great personal skill in the exercise of the sword, a 
 qualification of much value among his people. The long revolutions 
 of Persia called forth every talent and every passion ; and the hopes of 
 Kerim Khan were excited by the partial successes of others, and 
 by the consciousness of his own resources. He entered the field ; and 
 eventually overcame Mahomed Hassan Khan, his principal compe- 
 titor, who fled and was killed in Mazanderan. The conqueror having 
 seized and confined the children of his rival, proceeded to quell the 
 several inferior chiefs, who, in their turns, had aspired to the succes- 
 sion. His superior activity and talents finally secured the dominion : 
 and having, in 1755, settled at Shiraz, he made that city the seat of 
 his government. He beautified it by many public buildings, both of 
 use and luxury ; and their present state attests the solid magnificence of 
 his taste. His memory is much lamented in Persia ; as his reign, a 
 reign of dissipation and splendor, was congenial to the character of the 
 people. In his time prostitutes were publicly protected ; their calling was 
 classed among the professions ; and the chief, or representative, of their 
 
 * " He made no scruple of avowing that in his youth he pursued the occupation of a 
 " robber ; and that his fore teeth had been demolished by the kick of an ass which he 
 *' had stolen and was carrying off." Foster's Travels, vol. ii. p. £41* 
 
XlV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 numbers, attended by all the state and parade of the most respected 
 of the Khans and Mirzas, used daily to stand before the Sovereign at 
 his Durbar. 
 
 On the 13th of March, 1779, Kerim Khan died a natural death, 
 an extraordinary occurrence in the modern history of Persia, having 
 reigned (according to the different dates assigned to his accession, 
 from the deaths of different competitors) from nineteen to thirty years. 
 From the fall of Mahomed Hassan Khan the better epoch, his 
 conqueror lived nineteen years, with almost undisputed authority. 
 
 After his death all was again in confusion; and the kingdom pre- 
 sented a renewal of blood and usurpation. It is scarcely necessary to 
 state the short-lived struggles of his successors : their very names have 
 ceased to interest us. It is sufficient therefore to add, that his sons 
 and brothers, and other relatives, attacked each other for fourteen years 
 after his death ; till the fortunes of the whole family were finally over- 
 whelmed in the defeat of Loolf Ali Khan, the last and greatest of 
 these claimants ; and the dominion was transferred, in the year 1794, 
 to his conqueror, Aga Mahomed Khan, of the present royal race 
 of Persia. 
 
 In latter years, during the war between the East India Company 
 and Tippoo Saib, under the administration of the Marquis Welles- 
 ley, the political relations of England and Persia were renewed. An 
 embassy, which Tippoo sent to Fatteh Ali Shah, the present King 
 of Persia, was followed soon after by a rival mission, which the Indian 
 government confided to the care of Mehede Ali Khan, a man of 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xv 
 
 Persian extraction. In the mean time, indeed, Tippoo was killed; 
 and his death left us in possession of the Persian councils. After this 
 Captain Malcolm, in the year 1801, was sent to solicit the alliance 
 of Persia against Ze maun Shah, King of the Afghans. That gen- 
 tleman concluded a treaty,* by which it was stipulated that Persia 
 should attack Khorassan and the Afghan States, and that we should 
 contribute our assistance in the expences of the war. The King of 
 Persia carried his arms into Khorassan, and conquered that province. 
 
 The mission of Captain Malcolm was returned by one from 
 the King of Persia to the Indian Government. Hajee Kelil 
 Khan was sent as the embassador, but unfortunately he was killed in 
 a fray at Bombay, as he was attempting to quell a disturbance be- 
 tween his servants and some Indians. To explain this untoward event, 
 Mr. Lovett, a gentleman in the Bengal civil service, was dispatched; 
 but he proceeded no further with his mission than to Bushire, and de- 
 livered it over to Mr. Ma nest y, the East India Company's Resident 
 at Bussorah. Another embassy was now sent from the Persian Court ; 
 and Mahomed Nebee Khan, the Envoy appointed, luckily reached 
 Calcutta without any accident. 
 
 Some time after, French agents were traced into Persia, and the 
 views of France begun to be suspected. Monsieur Jouannin, an 
 intelligent Frenchman, succeeded in getting the Persian Court to send 
 a mission to Buonaparte. The Envoy, by name Mirza Reg a, 
 went from Persia in 1806 ; and concluded a treaty with France at 
 
 * The treaty forms the Appendix to General Malcolm's Political History of India, 
 p. 533-549. 5 
 
XVI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Finkinstein, in May 1807. On his return, a large embassy, confided 
 to General Gardanne, was sent from France to Persia: this gave 
 rise to the mission of Sir Harford Jones, who, arriving at Bombay 
 in April 1808, found that Brigadier-General Malcolm had been pre- 
 viously sent by the Governor-General to Persia. General Malcolm 
 having failed of success, Sir Harford Jokes proceeded. 
 
PLATES. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. General Map of the Countries to face the Title. 
 
 II. Cape Arubuh ----- ------- 3 
 
 III. Island of Ashtolah - - - - - 4 
 
 IV. Cape Posmee ------------------ 4 
 
 V. Cape Musseldom ----------------- 6 
 
 VI. View of Bushire - - - 58 
 
 VII. Map from Bushire to Teheran ------------ C8 
 
 VIII. Persian on horseback smoaking ------------ 70 
 
 IX. View of Shapour - _____-_-- 86 
 
 X. Sculpture at Shapour ----- -- 88 
 
 XI. Sculpture at Shapour .-_--.-.__ 00 
 
 XII — XIII. Sculptures at Shapour ------.-------- 01 
 
 XIV. View of Shiraz - - - 106 
 
 XV. Sculpture at A r akshi Rust am ------------- 125 
 
 XVI. Sculpture at Nakshi Rustam ------------- 127 
 
 XVII. Sculpture at Nakshi Rustam 128 
 
 XVIII. View of Perscpo/is ---------------- 132 
 
 XIX. Sculpture at Nakshi Radjab, near Persepolis -------- 137 
 
 XX. Sculpture at Nakshi Radjab, near Persepolis - ------ 133 
 
 XXI. Tomb of Madre Suleiman - - - - - - - 146 
 
 XXII. View of Ispahan - - - 169 
 
 XXIII. View of Teheran - --------------- 185 
 
 XXIV. Takht-a-Cadjar - - - 226 
 
 XXV. Map from Teheran to Amasia __...._ 240 
 
 XXVI. Sultanieh - - - ---------- 257 
 
 XXVII. Bridge over the Kizzil Ozan - 267 
 
 XXVIII. Mount Ararat - 306 
 
 XXIX. Plate of Inscriptions _.--. 357 
 
 c§ 
 

 ERRATA. 
 
 P. 176. Twenty-two lines from the top, for twelve, read sixteen 
 P. 257. Sixteen lines from the top, for four, read five. 
 
^a 
 
 JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA, 
 
 &c. Sec. Sec. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY LAVn OY OUZERAT COAST OF MEK- 
 
 RAN — BALOUCHES — ENTRANCE OF THE GULPH OF PERSIA— 
 IMAUM OF MUSCAT: HIS FLEET — SOUNDINGS IN THE GULPH— 
 BUSHIRE — VISIT OF THE SHEIK — LANDING IN PERSIA. 
 
 ON the 6th of September 1808, when His Majesty's Mission to the 
 court of Teheran was still at Bombay, the Envoy extraordinary, Sir Har- 
 ford Jones, received dispatches from the Governor-general at Calcutta, 
 which determined him to proceed immediately to Persia. The esta- 
 blishment of the mission had been changed since our arrival in India ; 
 Major L. F. Smith, who left England as public Secretary, on landing 
 at this settlement proceeded to Bengal; and the duties of Secre- 
 tary of the Legation were annexed to those, which, as private secre- 
 tary to the Envoy, I had originally discharged. The suite was aug- 
 mented at Bombay by Mr. Thomas Henry Sheridan, and Captain 
 James Sutherland, severally of the civil and military establishments 
 of that presidency, by Cornet Henry Wil lock, of the Madras ca- 
 valry, commander of the body guard ; and was subsequently joined by 
 
a 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 Lieutenant Blacker, of the Madras cavalry, and Mr. Campbell, 
 surgeon to the mission. Besides three European and some Indian ser- 
 vants, the Envoy carried washermen and tailors, and some artificers, as 
 carpenters, blacksmiths, and locksmiths. 
 
 On the 12th Sept. Sir Harford Jones, accompanied by Mr. She- 
 ridan and myself, embarked on board his Majesty's frigate Nereide, 
 Captain Corbett ; Capt. Sutherland and Mr. Willock went in 
 the Sapphire, Capt. Davis : and the H. C. cruizer Sylph earned the 
 Persian secretary, &c. The Governor of Bombay drew out the troops 
 of the garrison to salute the Envoy on his embarkation : they formed 
 a lane from the government-house to the entrance of the dock-yard ; 
 and as He passed the troops presented arms, and the music played 
 " God save the King/' A salute of fifteen guns was fired on his 
 quitting the shore, and was answered by another from the frigate; a 
 ceremony which always excites a powerful feeling of respect in the 
 minds of the natives. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 12th, the squadron left the harbour of 
 Bombay : on the 13th, the Nereide had out-stripped the Sapphire, and 
 had lost sight of the Sylph. The winds were variable and squally : the 
 thermometer in the cabin stood at 82°. About ten o'clock, on the 
 morning of the 14th. we made the land of Diu; we stood close in shore, 
 and tacked at twelve o'clock ; the Portuguese colours were flying on the 
 fort. The thermometer was this day 80°. 15th. calms. The land of 
 the Guzerat is extremely low. Diu Point is studded with towns and 
 pagodas. 16th. we made but little way ; tacked off and on shore, and 
 distinguished a variety of buildings and towns on the coast. The 
 largest place, which we marked in our progress, was Pour-bundar. The 
 coast itself continued flat, with scarcely an inequality. 
 
 On Sunday, the 18th. Capt. Corbett read prayers to the ship's 
 company on the quarter-deck. The scene struck me as more simple 
 and more impressive than any that, for a long time, I bad witnessed. 
 The cleanliness of the ship, the attention of the sailors, the beauty of 
 the day, all conspired to heighten the solemnity of the service, and I 
 
WsBSBm 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRB. 5 
 
 felt persuaded that the prayers, offered up to God by such men and in 
 such a manner, would be favourably accepted. 
 
 As the coast of Meier an, (taken largely, from the Indus to the 
 entrance of the gulph of Persia,) along which we now sailed, is so 
 little visited in this age, and has, indeed, been so seldom described 
 since the days of Alexander, it may, perhaps, be acceptable to 
 insert even the few and incomplete notices of the country which my 
 journal affords. 
 
 On the 18th. we lost sight of the coast. On the 24th we again saw 
 land, which in appearance was remarkable. It was a very long range of 
 table land, the soil of which, though light coloured, was strongly marked 
 in horizontal strata. As we approached it, we discovered several curious 
 capes, rising in a varied succession of grotesque forms; and among 
 them one so very singular, that we were surprised that it had not been 
 particularly described by those who have compiled the directories for 
 navigating these seas. By our chronometers we took this land to be 
 Cape Moran* The shore gradually shallows from twelve to five 
 fathoms, when we tacked and stood off again in the evening, expecting 
 a land breeze to spring up, but were disappointed. The sea is here very 
 much discoloured, the effect probably of black mud at the bottom. 
 
 25th. Sept. Cape Arubah is a long slip of table land, which on 
 its first appearance looks like an island .-f* Its soil seems to be clay, 
 and of a colour a few shades darker than Portland stone. Wc did 
 not discover, among the head-lands into which it was broken, the parti- 
 cular cape which might have given its name to the whole ; but the highest 
 point to the westward appeared to deserve the preference. Beyond that 
 western extremity of the table land, the coast immediately recedes into a 
 bay, which is terminated by a long range of extremely rugged moun- 
 
 * The Malana of Vincent's Nearchus, p. 197. Horseburgh notice* it very slightly, 
 K in coasting to the westward from Hinglah, another point called Muran is discerned." 
 p. 231. " Directions, &c." # 
 
 i The log of the Nereide, Sept. 26th, seems to refer to it, as " the above island." 
 
 B 2 
 
4 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 tains. In one of the recesses of the cliffs ofArubah, we fancied that we 
 had discovered a village, and even through our glasses were still positive 
 that we could mark its white buildings ; but as we drew closer to the 
 shore, we ascertained that the houses in appearance were in reality large 
 clods of white soil, which had fallen from the cliffs above, and were 
 arranged so happily, some in separate piles, and some in rows, as to give 
 to the whole the full effect of a town. A number of small boats with 
 white lateen sails were creeping quietly along the shore, as we passed ; 
 but we could not get close enough to them, to ascertain the people who 
 managed them, or the nature of the goods which they carried. 
 
 On the 26th. the weather was very foggy ; the thermometer was 75°. 
 On the 27th. as the fog still increased, we came to an anchor in nine 
 fathoms. On the 28th. as the fog cleared away, we discovered the 
 small island of Ashtola, which is of an equal height along its whole 
 extent, a length perhaps of about two miles, and seems to be of the 
 same soil as the capes on the mainland. Not far from the island, we 
 caught turtle. The continent as seen from Ashtola, appears extremely 
 high, in long continued ranges ; but the lands which more immediately 
 border on the sea, are very low. The soundings are regular, and there is 
 no danger, as long as the lead is going. At eight o'clock we were off 
 Cape Posmee, a remarkable head-land. 
 
 On the 1st of October, we made Cape Guadel, a piece of land of a mode- 
 rate and rather equal height, which projects far into the sea, and is con- 
 nected with the continent by an isthmus less than half a mile in breadth. 
 Close under the north side of the cape, there is still a town ; and on the 
 isthmus, as we could perceive from the ship, are the remains of^ an old 
 fort. In the neighbourhood are the vestiges of a town also, built with 
 stone, and some wells.* But the more modern village of Guadel is 
 
 * In 1581, the Portuguese (according to their historian Faria y Sousa) after having 
 surprised and burnt " the beautiful and rich city Pesani" destroyed " Guadel, not infe- 
 rior." Asia Portuguesa, vol. ii. 37m They appear to have had afterwards a settlement 
 there themselves; vol. iii. p. 416; which before 1613 had probably been resumed from its 
 
 E 
 
mmsm 
 
^ 
 
BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. $ 
 
 i 
 
 composed of mat houses, and the greater part of the inhabitants (the 
 number of the whole is very small) are weavers, who manufacture coarse 
 linen and carpets of ordinary colours. From Crotchey to Cape Monze 
 the people call themselves Balouches ; and from Monze to Cape Jasques, 
 they take the name of Brodies : there is some difference in their language, 
 perhaps in their religion also, but none in their dress or manners. The 
 high lands about Cape Guadel are all extremely remarkable, rising in 
 spires and turrets so correctly formed, as to give to many parts of the 
 coast, an appearance of towns with their churches and castles. 
 
 Their rocky summits, split and rent, 
 
 Form'd turret, dome, and battlement, 
 
 Or seem'd fantastically set 
 
 With cupola or minaret, 
 
 Wild crests as pagod ever deck'd 
 
 Or mosque of eastern architect. 
 
 Lady of the Lake, Canto I. xi. p. 14. 
 
 One piece of land in particular, forming an entrance to the bay behind 
 Cape GuadeU has the most striking resemblance to a long range of 
 gothic ruin. We perceived three camels grazing on the heights of the 
 cape, and some few signs of cultivation, which we had discovered on no 
 other spot along the coast before. 
 
 On the 3d. we saw the town of Chubar; and plainly distinguished 
 among other objects a walled building, which we at first took to be a 
 fort, but which according to the Directory, is a place of burial. We 
 saw several boats with lateen sails, of a canvas very conspicuously 
 white, cut exactly like the sails of the boats on the coast of Italy and 
 Sicily. The thermometer was 84°. The 5th. was very sultry, and the 
 
 European possessors, for Herbert in passing it, observes, " beware by Sir Robert 
 " Sherlye's example of Cape Guader * * * an infamous port and inhabited by a perfidious 
 " people. Under pretext of amity they allured Sherlye and his lady ashoare, A. 1613; 
 " where but for a Hodgee that understood their drift and honestly revealed it, they had been 
 " murdered with Newport their captaine; and merely to play the theeves with them," 
 Herbert's Travels, p. 113. Ed. 1638. 
 
BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 thermometer was 90°. On the 6th. a hot wind came from off the land, 
 and warped the tables, mathematical rulers, and the furniture in the 
 cabin, besides slackening all our rigging. This wind brought with it a 
 thick mist of an impalpable sand, which gradually cleared away, and 
 left us the first view of Cape Jasques. 
 
 Oct. 7th. at about one o'clock in the morning, a breeze sprung 
 up from the southward, and in five hours we had passed the Quoins, in 
 the Gulph of Persia, and were abreast of the island of Kishmis. We saw 
 at the same time the high land of the Arabian shore, terminating in a 
 lofty and marked peak; it is the land about Cape Musseldom. The 
 entrance of the gulph may be properly marked between Cape Bomba- 
 reek and Cape Musseldom. I call these places by their names, as laid 
 down in our sea charts ; because their more proper appellations would 
 probably not be understood. Bothbareek for instance, which by sailors 
 is also called Bombay rock, is derived originally from " Moobarek, 
 " happy, fortunate." Musseldom is still a stronger instance of the per- 
 version of words. The genuine name of this head-land is Mama Selemeh, 
 derived according to the story of the country from Selemeh, who was a 
 female saint of Arabia, and lived on the spot or in its neighbourhood. 
 The Indians, when they pass the promontory, throw cocoa nuts, fruits 
 or flowers into the sea, to secure a propitious voyage. My informer 
 added, that the superstition was not practised by the Persians. 
 
 On the shore of Cape Bombareek is an insulated and very singular 
 mass of rock, in which we could perceive from the ship a large natu- 
 ral aperture. To me the shape of the whole mass appeared like a 
 tankard, and the aperture formed its handle. After having rounded 
 Cape Musseldom (which is eighteen leagues to the westward of Bom- 
 bareek), we came to the five small islands generally called altogether 
 the Quoins. 
 
 Kishmis is the largest island in the gulph; and, according to the ac- 
 count which I received, is capable of being made very productive : it is 
 at present in almost total abandonment, though still nominally the pro- 
 perty of Persia. We next passed two small and low islands, called the 
 Great and Little Tomb. 
 

 ^ ; 
 
 
■ 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 ? 
 
 The strong south wind, with which we were now favoured, was at this 
 season considered extraordinary. It blew so strong that the Nereide, 
 with every sail set, went ten and eleven knots. It is accompanied with 
 much haze, not indeed to be compared to that which came with the hot 
 wind from off the shore, though in the same manner it warped the fur- 
 niture and slackened the rigging. 
 
 On the 8th. we passed the island of Busheab, which, in Heather's 
 map, is placed much too far to the eastward, and which ought to be 
 called " Khoshaub, or pleasant water/' from the fresh spring in its ter- 
 ritory. Tt is a long and low slip, but the land on the continent behind 
 it is extremely high. We had a light sea breeze all day, that carried us 
 off Cape Nabon, a part of the province of Farz. The thermometer 
 stood at 93° in the cabin after dinner. On the morning of the 9th. it 
 was reported that a fleet of five ships were seen from the mast-head. 
 We conjectured that they might be Arab ships, bound from Muscat to 
 Bussorah, which about this season proceed on their voyages. They 
 carry thither annually eight thousand bales of -coffee; and in return 
 get cargoes of dates. The sea breeze of the day was extremely 
 light, and set in at noon. In the evening the Barnhill, a remarkable 
 piece of land, (which derived its name from its resemblance to an 
 eld and decayed thatched building, and which is situated over the 
 town of Congoon,) bore N. and by W. of us. Here the whole coast is 
 very high. 
 
 On the morning of the 10th. we were off the Barnhill. The 
 five ships had thus far kept us in a state of suspense ; as we imagined 
 that they might be the fleet of the Imaum of Muscat, who possesses 
 thirty sail of different descriptions. Some of his ships, indeed, are of a 
 thousand tons burthen ; and one of forty guns, built at Bombay ', is rather 
 a formidable vessel * The Imaum in person frequently parades about 
 
 * Jackson mentions in 1797 one of bis ships, which carried upwards of a thousand 
 saen. — Journey, p. 8. 
 
3 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 the Persian gulph with his armament. He is an independant prince, 
 and his jurisdiction, though principally confined to Muscat, extends yet 
 generally over the province of Oman. At present he is friendly to us, 
 and we have a resident at his court, who seldom remains there long, for 
 the badness of its air has rendered it the burial place of too many 
 Englishmen. 
 
 At length we boarded the Arabs, and they proved to be, as we had 
 originally expected, a fleet of the hnawris merchantmen, laden with 
 coffee, rice, Sec. bound to Bushire and Bussorah. They had been 
 fifteen days from Muscat. One of the five was a fine vessel of six hun- 
 dred tons burthen, which about four years before was purchased by the 
 Imaum at the Isle of France, and was then called the Sterling Castle. 
 There were also two grabs, which are ships in every respect like the 
 others, except that they have lengthened prows instead of rounded 
 bows. These grabs the Arabs can manage to build themselves in their 
 own ports, as it is easy to extend the timbers of a ship, until they con- 
 nect themselves into a prow ; but they have not yet attained the art of 
 forming timber fit to construct bows. 
 
 Before the sunset of the preceding day, we had discovered through 
 our glasses, the town of Congoon, under a peak, close in the eastern 
 vicinity of the Barnhill. It then appeared in a wood of dates, above 
 which rose the domes of mosques. The Sheik of Congoon is represented 
 as a young and spirited Arab, who can raise a body of two thousand 
 cavalry, and who is able to lead them. His town is resorted to for wood, 
 but, as far as we could judge at a distance, the date is the only tree of 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 We suffered much from the heat in the night, but when the moon rose 
 over the Barnhill, a little refreshing breeze sprang up, which gave us 
 much relief. An Arab ship was not far from us, and I could just hear 
 their singing on board. It brought to my recollection some of the moon- 
 light scenes in the Archipelago ; for the music of these Arabs struck me 
 as being very similar to that which I have heard on board a Greek or 
 

 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 Sclavonian ship, when the lyra accompanies the voice of some naval 
 Apollo, and is followed by a chorus of his shipmates. 
 
 We were off Cape Verdistan this morning, and descried the Hummocks 
 of Kenn. The shoal that runs out from Cape Verdistan, is rendered 
 dangerous by a reef of rocks which extends itself about six or seven 
 miles from the shore. There are good mud soundings on the shoal, and 
 a ship may cross its extremity without danger, though it is as well to 
 give it a good birth. We stood off in the night of the 12 th. The sound- 
 ings in the shoal as laid down by Mac Cluer are not all correspondent 
 to those which we got. We were in seven fathoms for more than an 
 hour, and he has not got such a sounding amongst his. From seven we 
 got to half six, and then to four, when we thought it time to tack. The 
 cause which has been assigned for our ignorance of the gulph, is the 
 prudential reserve which has influenced our Indian governments in their 
 transactions with the states of Persia and Arabia. To avoid suspicion 
 and complaint, they have never professedly made surveys of the shores, 
 though much might yet have been done indirectly, if the object had 
 been considered of sufficient importance. Few, except merchant 
 vessels visited the gulph ; and as the charts, which they already pos- 
 sessed (and what is better, their own experience) served their purpose 
 sufficiently in the line of their own navigation, there was seldom any 
 particular demand for more correct surveys. The geographer and 
 philosopher indeed require something more, and therefore it is still 
 matter of regret, that we are comparatively ill-informed in countries, 
 where we have had easy opportunities of acquiring knowledge. 
 
 13th Oct. We were becalmed all night under the Asses Ears. These 
 are points of land, which stand a little more erect, and are more con- 
 spicuous than the other points which surround them. The whole 
 displays a line of coast the most rugged, barren, and inhospitable that I 
 ever saw ; and constitutes, after we passed Verdistan shoal, a very bold 
 shore. We sailed along it, keeping in eleven and twelve fathoms. In 
 the evening we opened Hallilah peak, which is a high and remarkable 
 
 c 
 
10 
 
 30MBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 point of land. As we crept along the coast, we marked some ruined 
 walls embosomed among the date trees.* At sunset we just dis- 
 covered tha low land on which stands the town of Bushire. In the 
 calms which followed during the night, we were unable to make 
 much way, and on the morning of the 14th we were still at the same 
 distance from Bushire, as on the preceding evening. We fired two 
 shots at a small vessel, to bring her too, but without effect. These 
 boats are employed mostly in carrying wood to Bushire. They find it 
 on the coast, probably in recesses of the land, for we could scarcely see 
 a shrub in the whole passage of the gulph. 
 
 At about half past three o'clock on the 14th October, we anchored in 
 B ushire roads, where we found one of the Company's cruizers, and a mer- 
 chantman. Before we cast anchor, a boat came off from the shore, the 
 captain of which, a little sharp Persian, answered Sir Harford Jones's 
 interrogations with much vivacity, and swore to the truth of every asser- 
 tion ten times over by his head and eyes. Having learnt that the East 
 India Company's assistant resident, Mr. Bruce, was at Bushire, the 
 Envoy sent a letter to desire his attendance on board immediately, and at 
 the same time requesting that he would notify the arrival of the mission 
 to the Sheik, Abdallah Resoul, who then governed Bushire. We 
 could see with our glasses Mr. Bruce's residence, which was at some 
 distance without the town, and could observe that the letter had been 
 safely c elivered ; for in a few minutes we discovered Mr. Bruce on 
 horseback, riding full speed to the boat. In an hour he was on 
 board. 
 
 He commenced by informing us of a report of the death of our King, 
 which had reached Bushire from Bagdad; and which, originating from 
 an article in a French paper, had been circulated in Persia by the 
 French, for an obvious purpose. The Envoy delivered to Mr. Bruce, 
 
 * Probably the ruins of Reshire. 
 

 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 11 
 
 a paper containing all the communications which he wished to be 
 made to the Sheik of Bushire. He then added, desiring that his object 
 might be clearly explained, that He expected from the Sheik all the 
 respect due to the station which he filled, and that if he did not 
 receive those honours to which the King of England's Mis ion was 
 entitled, the Sheik should be held responsible till the wishes of the 
 court of Persia were known. Mr. Bruce assured Sir Harford that 
 the *S7*eiA; would make no difficulty in coming off the next day to 
 pay his respects, and the hour of his visit was in consequence fixed at 
 ten o'clock. 
 
 The colours of the New Factory in the country, and of the Old one in 
 the town, were hoisted on the morning of the 15th. While we were ex- 
 pecting the arrival of the Sheik, we regaled ourselves with the grapes, 
 citrons, and pomegranates, which had been sent to us from the shore. 
 At length we espied a boat with a crimson awning, and apparently 
 much filled with passengers. It was beating against the sea breeze, 
 which, rather unfortunately for the party, had set in uncommonly fresh. 
 When she came in a line with our ship, the sail was lowered, and the 
 men took to their oars. In a short time however we observed from the 
 frigate, that the boat got very slowly a-head, and that the strength of the 
 crew was nearly exhausted. Captain Corbett then sent his barge to 
 tow up the Sheik to the ship, which w T as done in a very masterly style ; 
 and we were delighting in the idea of the enjoyment which the 
 Persians must have received in the close at least of such an excursion, 
 when we were mortified at discovering the misery in every face, which 
 the unusual voyage had too evidently produced. But the sea-sickness 
 was forgotten as soon as they were on board the frigate. The Sheik was 
 received with a salute of five guns ; the number was esteemed a mark 
 of particular distinction, as three are considered in Persia a sufficient 
 allowance for a great man. 
 
 The marines were under arms ; Captain Corbett with much 
 courtesy handed him across the quarter-deck, and assisted him with 
 some difficulty to descend from the deck to the cabin by a steep and 
 
 C 2 
 
lft 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIIiE. 
 
 narrow ladder, which, however, no attention could render convenient to 
 a man encumbered with an immense large cloak and slip-shod slippers. 
 At the bottom he was received by Sir Hakford Jones. The ship was 
 immediately filled by the suite of the Sheik, who, with all the curiosity 
 and effrontery of Asiatics, spread themselves through every part. Our 
 guest was attended on his visit by the principal men and merchants of 
 Bus/lire, among whom the Envoy recognised the face of many an early 
 friend. All the party seemed much pleased with their reception, and 
 expressed their high admiration of the beauty, order, and cleanliness of 
 the ship. The conversation was general, and consisted mostly m 
 inquiries after former friends, and in reviving the recollection of the 
 histories of old times. Sir Harford Jones had known the Sheik 
 when he was a fine boy : there was now indeed little left to be admired; 
 his face was inanimate, and his body bent double with excessive, 
 debauch. The whole party were generally but a rude sample of the 
 elegance of Persians, nor indeed is the true Persian to be found at 
 Bushire, where the blood is mostly mixed with that of Arabia. 
 
 The only man of the party, whose face interested me, and exhibited 
 signs of intelligence, was a Turk, by name Ardulla Aga^ an old 
 friend of the Envoy's, who had been Masselim of Bussor&h* and had 
 ruled that part of the country for many years, with great respectability 
 and eclat. He had been driven by injustice to take refuge at Bmhive ; 
 though from the known integrity of his character, and the attachment 
 of the people of Bussorah and Bagdad to his person,, many still expect 
 that he will one day attain the FachaUek of Bagdad- After this good 
 Mussulman, spreading his carpet near one of the: twelve pounders, had 
 said his prayers, (with a fervency, undisturbed by the busy, novel and 
 noisy scene around him) the visit broke up. 
 
 The Sheik and Abdulla Aga, who both, had suffered: by their long 
 excursion in the morning, preferred to return on shore in the Nereide'& 
 boat with Sir Harford Jones. We bad not long put off from the 
 ship, when a salute of fifteen guns commenced to« the enwy, to the great 
 consternation of the reaaaining part of the Ifersiansv wbo; were just 
 
BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 13 
 
 embarking in their own boat, and who unluckily found themselves under 
 the muzzles of the guns, where they were involved in clouds of smoke, 
 with the wads whistling close to their ears. We at length reached the 
 landing place ; an immense crowd was assembled to await our 
 debarkation. The Sheik had collected all the soldiery of the town to 
 escort us to his house ; and in the moment of our touching the shore, the 
 whole mob was put in motion, raising a dust so thick that I could scarce 
 distinguish Englishman from Asiatic. To add to the denseness of 
 the atmosphere, the boats, which were close to the beach, commenced 
 a salute ; which was immediately answered by a range of guns on the 
 coast. The whole procession was obliged to pass in the immediate 
 rear of these guns as they were firing, though they appeared so old 
 and honey-combed, that I feared they must have burst before the 
 honours were over. We proceeded in a cloud of dust, and through 
 streets six feet wide to the Sheik's house, and at length entered i* by a 
 door so mean and ill-looking, that it might more properly have formed 
 the entrance to his stable. This door introduced us into a small court 
 yard, on one side of which was an apartment where we seated ourselves 
 on chairs placed on purpose for us. A Persian visit, when the guest is 
 a distinguished personage, generally consists of three acts : first, the 
 kaleoun, or water pipe, and coffee ; second, a kaleoun, and sweet coffee 
 (so called from its being a composition of rose-water and sugar) ; and 
 third, a kaleoun by itself. Sweetmeats are frequently introduced as a 
 finale. As I shall have many better opportunities of describing all the 
 ceremonies of these occasions, it is sufficient to add at present, that we 
 performed the three above acts, and then mounted our horses for Mr. 
 Bruce's house in the country. 
 
 Part of the same armed rabble, which had escorted us from the boat 
 to the Sheik's house, attended us to the Factory. These soldiers are the 
 militia of the place, and serve without pay. They even find their own 
 arms, which consist of a matchlock, a sword, and a shield that is slung 
 behind their back. They consist of working men attached to different 
 trades, for we discovered the dyer by the black hue of his hands, the 
 
14 
 
 BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE. 
 
 tinker by the smut on his face, the tailor by the shreds that had adhered 
 to him from his shopboard. 
 
 On our arrival at the Factory, we closed our dispatches for Europe, 
 and then completed a day full of entertainment, by an excellent 
 dinner. 
 
 The Nereide sailed with the dispatches on the morning ; and before 
 day-light was out of sight. The passage between Bombay and Bushire, 
 which had been made in thirty-four days, was now retraced in twelve. 
 
CHAP. II. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 HISTORY OF BUSHIRE — SHEIK NASR — THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE, 
 THE CHIEF EXECUTIONER DISPATCHED FROM SHIRAZ AGAINST 
 THE SHEIK ABDULLAH RESOUL; VISITS THE ENVOY*. VISIT RE- 
 TURNED DIFFICULTIES OF THE SHEIK — HIS SEIZURE CON- 
 STERNATION OF THE TOWN PRECAUTIONS OF THE ENVOY 
 
 — EXPLANATION OF THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE— SUCCESSOR OF 
 THE SHEIK, MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN ASSUMPTION OF THE GO- 
 VERNMENT BY THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE MAHOMMED JAFFER 
 
 APPOINTED PROVISIONALLY ; DISGRACED ; RESTORED — RECEIVES 
 A KALAAT — CEREMONY — FATE OF THE LATE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 X HE history of the Sheik of Bushire, who had received us on our 
 landing, added the principal interest to our subsequent residence in his 
 country. Our stay was marked by the subversion of his power and of 
 the Arab rule ; and the journal of every day naturally contained ample 
 accounts of the progress of an event, which was locally so prominent 
 and important. The travellers of the last century, who mentioned his 
 predecessors, may possibly direct some little curiosity to the fortunes of 
 their descendant ; but without any previous interest in the persons, the 
 tide of the present day may excite attention as a practical illustration of 
 the principles of an eastern government. 
 
16 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 The coast of the gulph was lined for ages with the petty sovereignties 
 of Arab Sheiks,* who, while they occupied the shores of Persia, yielded 
 a very uncertain obedience to the monarch of the interior. The degrees 
 indeed of service paid were probably at all times measured more by the 
 character and relative force of the different parties, than by any original 
 stipulations. Nadir and Kerim Khan in vain endeavoured to 
 reduce these Arab chiefs to more complete obedience : but in many 
 districts their authority was scarcely acknowledged, and except in 
 partial remissions, still more seldom felt. Among these chiefs, Sheik 
 Nasr, of Bushire, long retained a real independance. The Dashtistan, 
 the low country under the hills, was his province ; and in all the turbu- 
 lence of his age, this territory and more immediately the country round 
 Bushire, was still the place of security. In one instance indeed, memo- 
 rable in the latter history of Persia,-f the resources of Bushire supported 
 the sinking fortunes of the last dynasty. Lootf Ali Khan, after the 
 murder of his father Jaffier Khan, king of Persia, fled for refuge to 
 Sheik Nasr. The Sheik, in memory of his ancient attachment to 
 Jaffier Khan, received the prince with the warmest hospitality, and 
 gathering the Arab tribes under his controul, resolved to lead them in 
 the cause which was thus trusted to his honour. The prince in the 
 mean time prepared, by letters, his friends at Shiraz to second their 
 operations ; and the measures were continued with secrecy and success, 
 when, in the words of the Persian historian,;]: " The boat of Sheik Nasr 
 
 * Niebuhr, who allots a separate chapter to these Arab powers (" etats independans 
 " aux environs du Golfe Persique") attracts our attention to their fate principally by the 
 remark, " En un mot, le gouvernement et les moeurs de ces Arabes ressemblent beaucoup 
 a ceux des anciens Grecs." But he adds, " mais ils manquent d'historiens pour decrire 
 " leurs guerres et pour celebrer leurs heros : voila pourquoi ils ne sont pas connus hors de 
 " leur pays." Description de l'Arabie, p. 270. 
 
 + The event is related by Olivier. Voyage, torn. vi. p. 215. 
 
 $ Extract from a translation of the History of the Zund Family, from the death of 
 Kerim Khan to the accession of Aga Mahomed Khan Kadjar by Ali Reza Ibn 
 Abdul Kerim of Shiraz. 
 
HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 1? 
 
 " Khan's existence from the beating waves of the sea of life, had 
 " received considerable injury ; and the bark of his age, from the ir- 
 " resistible tempest of death was overwhelmed in the sea of mortality/' 
 In his last moments the Sheik committed to his son the duty which 
 he was no longer permitted to execute himself. The son fulfilled his 
 father's charge with faithfulness : in two or three months he had assem- 
 bled a large force of Arab tribes*, and advanced with them towards 
 Shiraz : when a conspiracy in the camp of their enemy enabled them 
 in the first instance to succeed without a battle, and eventually to re- 
 instate on his throne the Prince who was confided to them. The story 
 marks the character of the two nations more fully, if the history of 
 Lootf Ali Khan, before his flight to Bushire, be recollected. Al- 
 though his father had reigned in Persia for a long time (compared with 
 the usurpations which preceded,) although himself had long accus- 
 tomed the people to serve and triumph with him, yet in the first mo- 
 ment of distress (the arrival of the intelligence of his father's slaughter, 
 and of the orders of the conspirators to seize him), even in his own 
 camp he was left unsupported by all. Five, indeed, fled with him in 
 the night to Bushire ; but in the morning the whole camp had dispersed 
 without an effort; and all had submitted to the usurpers. The contrast 
 now begins : the Prince threw himself on the protection of the Arabs, 
 the vassals or allies of his father ; he was welcomed with the most warm 
 fidelity, supported by their honour, and restored by their valour 
 to his throne. 
 
 The Sheik of Bushire, who in his dying charge had bequeathed this 
 cause to his successor, is still remembered in his general conduct with 
 reverence. Whenever his little domain was threatened either by the 
 Government of Persia, or by a neighbouring chief, Sheik Nasr flew 
 to arms. According to the traditional accounts of the country, his 
 
 * " Consisting of the Arab tribes of Dumoag, Beenee Hajir, Hi/at Daaod, and 
 " others." 
 
 D 
 
18 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 summons to his followers in these emergencies was equally characteristic 
 and effectual. He mounted two large braziers of Pillau on a camel, 
 and sent it to parade round the country. The rough pace of the 
 animal put the ladles in motion, so that they struck the sides of the 
 vessels at marked intervals, and produced a most sonorous clang. As 
 it traversed the Dashtistan, it collected the mob of every district ; every 
 one had tasted the Arab hospitality of the Sheik, and every one remem- 
 bered the appeal, and crowded round the ancient standard of their 
 chief, till his camel returned to him surrounded by a force sufficient to 
 repel the threatened encroachments. In every new emergency the 
 camel was again sent forth, and all was again quiet. 
 
 The territory, therefore, of Bushire, and the neighbouring district, 
 remained under the rule of the Arabs, unviolated by the successive 
 Princes, who have conquered and retained so large a portion of the 
 rest of Persia. But Abdullah Resoul, the grandson of Sheik Nasr, 
 inherited the office only of his predecessor, and possessed no qualities 
 which could command the affections and the services of his people ; 
 and though at the time of our landing the government was vested in 
 him as the descendant of the ancient possessors, it was obviously im- 
 probable that Bushire, which had now become the principal port of 
 Persia, would be suffered to remain long under the administration of a 
 young Arab, of sluggish, dissolute, and unwarlike habits. 
 
 In the evening of the 16th Oct. (the day after our landing), the Sheik 
 of Bushire, escorted by several of the principal men of the town, paid 
 a visit to the Envoy. They had not sat long, when a man came in and 
 whispered something in the ear of one of the visitants, which caused 
 the Sheik to arise, take a hasty leave, and gallop at full speed into the 
 town. The Government of Shiraz had sent a body of men to seize 
 him. He had just time to reach Bushire before the party of Shiraz 
 horsemen could overtake him. He immediately mustered all his little 
 force, planted a guard on the walls, and himself kept constant watch at 
 the gates. He had indeed anticipated the probable designs of the 
 Court of Shiraz ; and, though now apparently resolved on the last 
 
HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 19 
 
 resistance, he had already taken the precaution of shipping most 
 of his property on his own vessels, and with them meditated to 
 retire to Bussora. 
 
 The commander of the Shiraz horsemen, to whom the commission 
 was intrusted, was Mahomed Khan, the Nasakchee Bashee, an office 
 not ill understood by that of chief executioner *. He is always em- 
 ployed, at least, in seizing state prisoners, though his personal character 
 is rather opposite to the duties of his situation ; for to the facetiousness 
 of his temper, according to the report of his countrymen, he owes the 
 favour of the Prince of Shiraz, and through that favour, his office ; 
 and, as a second consequence, the monopoly of tobacco -f*. In the dis- 
 charge of his functions the Nasakchee Bashee is generally supposed to 
 realize in every commission a considerable sum, besides the maintenance 
 of himself and his followers at the expence of the individuals against 
 whom he may successively be sent. While he waited the accomplish- 
 ment of his present attempt, he remained encamped at a short distance 
 from the town. About twelve o'clock on the 18th, he made a visit of 
 ceremony to the Envoy. He was attended by eighteen men, himself 
 alone mounted on a horse; on his arrival he seated himself on a couch 
 next to Sir Harford Jones, and his men extended themselves in two 
 
 * Hanway limits the functions; " the officer who makes seizures," vol. ii. p. 372: see 
 also Abdul Kurkeem, p. 14. Both authorities connect rank and importance to the situa- 
 tion. In the East, indeed, the duties even of an executioner appear to have been held in very 
 different estimation from that which is attached to them in Europe. " Les Bourreaux en 
 Georgie," says Toukneiokt, " sont fort riches, et les gens de qualite y exercent cette 
 " charge ; bien loin qu'elle soit reputee infame, comme dans tout le reste du monde, c'est 
 " un titre glorieux en ce pays-la pour les families. On s'y vante d'avoir eu plusieurs 
 " bourreaux parmi ses ancestres, et ils se fondent sur le principe qu'il n'y a rien de si 
 u beau que d'executer la justice, sans laquelle on ne scauroit vivre en seurete. Voila 
 « une maxime bien digne des Georgiens." Tom. II. 31 1. " Arigch, the Captain of the 
 King's Guard," (of Babylon, Dan. II. 14.) is yet stiled by the Chaldee in the margin, 
 " Chief of the Executioners or Slaughter-men." 
 
 + " Jooyum is the district where the Tobacco grows, and it is understood that the trade 
 " there is managed by its proprietor dextrously and profitably." 
 
 D 2 
 
HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 rows to the right and left before him. The conversation consisted of 
 mutual compliments about health, the hopes of continued amity be- 
 tween Persia and England, and the never failing topic the weather. 
 The whole party wore the black sheep-skin cap (the dress of every rank 
 of Persians), and almost all had pistols in their girdles ; some had 
 muskets, and all, except the Khan's own body servants, had swords. 
 Most of them also wore the green and high-heeled slippers of ceremony, 
 and every man had a full black beard. On the day of this visit, the 
 Sheik, as a douceur perhaps to engage the Envoy's interference in 
 his cause, sent him a present of two horses. 
 
 On the 20th. I went on the part of the Envoy to return the visit of 
 the Nasakchee Bashee. He was encamped among some date trees ; 
 and living in the remains of a house which was all in ruins, but which 
 lie had screened up with mats to keep off the sun and wind. A clean 
 mat was spread on the floor, carpets were arranged all around, and his 
 bed and cushions were rolled up in one corner : over the carpet, on 
 which he sate himself, was a covering of light blue chintz. When we 
 were within a hundred yards, we saw him walking about ; but as soon 
 as he perceived our approach, he seated himself in the place of honour, 
 and did not pay us the compliment of rising when we entered. I made 
 him a civil speech in Turkish, and he in return asked after the Envoy's 
 health. He seemed, indeed, much pleased with the epithet of Effendi, 
 which I used frequently in addressing him, but which, as I afterwards 
 learned, is never applied in Persia to any but very great men. His 
 vanity was accordingly much flattered ; and he exclaimed to his atten- 
 dants, that I was " Khoob Joaani" a fine fellow. When we had ex- 
 hausted all our compliments, we took our leave. 
 
 The mission on which he was dispatched to Bushire originated in the 
 following circumstances. Some years ago, the Sheik had been required 
 by the Governor of Farsistan to furnish a certain sum of money. He 
 pleaded poverty : he was ordered to borrow ; and to obviate every diffi- 
 culty, he was told that a particular person would advance the money, at 
 an interest indeed prescribed by the same authority which dictated 
 the amount of the capital. The Nasakchee Bashee was now sent to en- 
 

 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 21 
 
 force the immediate repayment of the capital and interest, which toge- 
 ther had swelled to twenty-eight thousand tomauns, a sum nearly equal 
 to the same number of pounds sterling. To save his authority, and 
 perhaps his head, the Sheik endeavoured to accommodate the present 
 difficulty by offering to pay down five thousand tomauns, and to secure 
 the rest by instalments. This, however, was refused ; and the unfortu- 
 nate Sheik accordingly gave immediate and public notice of the sale of 
 his effects, his horses, mules, and asses ; and in the course of a few 
 days raised fifty thousand piastres. 
 
 Still the hope of a less rigorous arrangement was not entirely ex- 
 cluded : the Sheik, attended by the principal men of the town, and with 
 a strong guard (so stationed that the signal of a moment could bring 
 them to his assistance) visited the Khan. The Khan indeed had sworn 
 that he would not molest the Sheik " at present f though, when asked 
 to extend the oath to every visit or opportunity, he replied that he would 
 not answer for the directions which he might receive from his govern- 
 ment. Two days after the visit, we observed a party of forty horsemen 
 arrive at the Khan's encampment, who probably bore the last orders of 
 the Court. 
 
 On the 25th of Oct. the Envoy received an intimation of a visit, 
 jointly from the Sheik and the Nasackchee Bashee ; but he was so much 
 occupied, that at the time he could not accept it. In a few minutes 
 after we heard a great commotion among the servants, and an outcry 
 that the Sheik was seized. By the assistance, indeed, of our glasses we 
 perceived the unfortunate man, with his arms pinioned, surrounded by 
 about twenty horsemen, and dragged away at full speed towards the 
 Shiraz road. It appeared, that trusting in this conditional oath of the 
 Khan, the Sheik had accepted his invitation to visit with him the 
 Envoy, and had gone forth from the town escorted by five men only. 
 On his way to the Envoy, he called for the Khan ; and when they were 
 both mounted, the Khan cried out to his men to seize, disarm, and 
 carry off their prisoner. 
 
 The consternation of the town was immediate and general, Mr. 
 

 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 Bruce, the Assistant Resident, was sent by the Envoy to learn the parti- 
 culars of its situation : he found the gates shut, and the towers manned, 
 but he gained admittance through the wicket, and saw all the misery 
 and confusion of the crisis. The Sheik's wives and servants were em- 
 barking in great haste on board one of his ships; his Vizir also, Hajee 
 Suliman, was hastening his own preparations to escape. The shops 
 were shut, the streets were crowded with men transporting their house- 
 holds to the sea shore, and their wives and daughters were beating their 
 breasts and crying in loud lamentation. Nor was there a shew of re- 
 sistance, except on the walls ; or a thought of defence : the only hope 
 and the only thought of every man was the preservation of his little 
 fortunes and the honour of his women. The same alarm prevailed in 
 the country ; all the poor date-hut villagers flocked for protection into 
 the Factory, and trusted to its walls the security of their families and 
 their scanty wealth. Women and children, their asses and their poultry, 
 were all indiscriminately hurried into the enclosure ; and before the 
 evening we saw around us no common scenes of misery and 
 terror. 
 
 The Assistant Resident, who had examined this state of things in the 
 town, was sent, on his return, by the Envoy to the Khan, to represent 
 the alarm of the place ; and to add, that the Envoy expected that no 
 molestation should be offered to any of the persons belonging to his 
 mission. The Khan was extremely civil, and treated him as usual with 
 coffee and three kaleoans. He informed him on the subject of his com- 
 mission ; that he had orders from his court to seize the Sheik, his 
 cousin, and his Vizir: and then read to him the fir man. The firman, 
 in the first place, ordained the act of seizure; and then ordained, that 
 not the smallest molestation should be given to the English, that every 
 possible respect and attention should be shewn to them, and strongly 
 denounced vengeance on any offender ; and lastly ordained, that no in- 
 habitant, either of the town or of the villages, should receive the least 
 harm. In his own name, he assured the Assistant Resident, that he was 
 determined to put the firman in its full force ; and turning to his fol- 
 

 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 lowers and guards, cried out, "Woe be to that man who shall be found 
 " guilty of giving the smallest offence to any Englishman, or to any of 
 " his servants, or to any thing that belongs to him/' He added, indeed, 
 that the present fate of the Sheik was the punishment of his ungracious 
 behaviour to the English ;* and swore, that, for his own part, nothing 
 was so strongly the object of his mind, as the good will of our 
 nation. The Khan further stated, that he had intended, in the pro- 
 posed visit of the morning in conjunction with the Sheik, first to have 
 read the firman to the Elchee, (the Embassador), and then to have 
 executed it on the Sheik; but the Sheik had tempted him by an op- 
 portunity so resistless, that he could not pay the full compliment to 
 the Envoy of delaying the seizure till the communication had been 
 made. 
 
 Mahomed Nebee Khan, who is known to the English as the 
 Persian Embassador at Calcutta, had procured the succession to the 
 Government of Bushire, at the price, it was said, of forty thousand 
 tomauns -\. 
 
 At this moment the Vizir Hajee Suliman was seized on the point 
 of embarkation. The Khan had declared that he would not spare 
 Bushire unless the Vizir was delivered to him. The people, therefore, 
 of his own town intercepted his flight, and surrendered him to the 
 Khan. But the cousin of the Sheik, whose fate was threatened in the 
 
 * « 
 
 The Sheik, indeed, had given cause of complaint to Brigadier- General Malcolm 
 before the arrival of His Majesty's Mission." 
 
 i " He was originally a Moonshee, who got his bread by transcribing books and writing 
 " letters for money. He taught Sir Harpobd Jones, when a young man at Bussora, to 
 w read and write Arabic and Persian. He afterwards became a merchant, selling small artr- 
 " cles in the Bazar at Bushire, and being fortunate in his early trade, extended his specu- 
 w lations still more largely and successfully : till, when an embassy to Calcutta was projected 
 u by the King of Persia, he was enabled to appear (according to the report off his country - 
 * men) as the highest bidder for the office, and was consequently invested with it. Having 
 enriched himself enormously by his mission, he has yet never failed to complain before 
 " the King, of the evil stars which, by leading him to accept such a situation, had reduced 
 H him to beggary." 
 
24 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 same proscription, escaped. There, as in Turkey, and probably in all 
 despotic countries, the guilt, or rather the disgrace, of an individual, 
 entails equal punishment on all his family and adherents. 
 
 On the following morning, Mahomed Khan, the Nasakchee Bashee, 
 whose mission had produced these changes, entered Bushire, and 
 assumed the administration of the government. The town was so far 
 tranquillized, indeed, that the Bazars were re-opened. The proclama- 
 tions which the Khan had issued, pledging security and peace to the 
 inhabitants, had recalled them to their houses ; and the example of 
 severe punishment, which he inflicted on one of his own men for stealing 
 the turban of a Jew, operated still more powerfully than his assurances. 
 In the course of the morning we rode to the gates of the town : there 
 was here a large assembly of armed men, for little other purpose indeed 
 than to hear the news and the lies of the day : for a picture, however, 
 the mob was excellent ; nothing can be marked more strongly in cha- 
 racter, than the hard and parched-up features of the inhabitants of this 
 part of Persia. Though the first consternation had thus subsided, the 
 people had not resumed their daily occupations. In the course of our 
 ride we did not meet a single woman carrying water, or a single ass car- 
 rying wood ; for the circumstances which had now happened were un- 
 paralleled in the memory of the oldest inhabitant, and excited the 
 strongest emotion throughout the country. 
 
 In appearance, indeed, the place was already tranquil ; but the re- 
 gulations which the Khan enforced, were too little accommodated to the 
 previous habits of the people to reconcile them to his administration. 
 Some of the most respectable merchants prepared to emigrate, and all 
 beheld with terror the officers of police displaying in the Bazars the 
 preparations for the bastinado, (the justice of Persia), with which they 
 contrasted very favourably the lenient rule of their Arab Chief. In the 
 progress of his government, the Khan still continued to exasperate the 
 principal inhabitants by extorting donations of their goods. When, 
 indeed, Mahomed Jaffer, the brother of the expected Governor, re- 
 ceived in his turn such a demand, he not only returned a direct denial, 
 
HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 25 
 
 but wrote to the townsmen to arm in revenge, and defend themselves 
 against such requisitions. 
 
 In a few days the same Mahomed Jaffer, in obedience to new 
 orders was proclaimed by the Khan, Governor pro tempore till the 
 arrival of his brother; and was invested in this dignity by the girding of 
 a sword on his thigh, an honour which he accepted with a reluctance 
 perhaps not wholly feigned. When he was complimented on the occa- 
 sion, he replied, " You see to what I am come at last ; all would not 
 " do : I was obliged to put on this sword." But the moment that he 
 assumed the government, he followed in his turn all the rigours 
 of his predecessor, and bastinadoed his new subjects without com- 
 miseration. 
 
 His reign, however, was short : on the 7th of November he was 
 seized by the Khan, (the Nasakchee Bashee), thrown into prison, and 
 fastened to the wall by a chain, said to have been sent expressly from 
 Shiraz for his neck, but in reality intended for that of Hajee Su li- 
 ma x, the late Vizir of Bush ire. The cause of his disgrace was his sup- 
 posed instigation of the flight of the Vizir, who had contrived to escape 
 by sea ; and this punishment was to be enforced unless he delivered up 
 the fugitive, or paid twenty thousand tomauns. As the Vice-Governor 
 was unable or unwilling to conform to either requisition, he remained 
 in prison. At length, however, he resolved on attempting the recapture 
 of the Vizir; and would have undertaken the voyage, if the security, 
 which he offered for his own return, had been deemed sufficient by the 
 Nasakchee Bashee. 
 
 In the mean time his release was prepared on easier and surer terms. 
 Mahomed Nebee Khan, the appointed Governor of Bushire, though 
 little friendly to his brother, was yet jealous of the honour of his family, 
 and felt in his own person the indignity which the late punishment of 
 the chain had inflicted on Jaffer. He swore, therefore, that he would 
 not rest till the head of his brother's enemy was cut off; and as the 
 first act of his influence procured the immediate restoration of his bro- 
 ther to his former offices. Jaffer was accordingly released from the 
 
26 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 prison where he was chained by the neck, and again seated in the 
 administration. 
 
 I must not omit as a specimen of Persian character, the mode of 
 communication which notified this change at Bushire. The Prince's 
 Messenger that brought the intelligence from Shiraz of the disgrace of 
 the Nasahchee Bashee, came into the presence of Mahomed Jaffer, 
 and told him, " Come, now is the time to open your purse-strings ; 
 " you are now no longer a merchant or in prison ; you are now no 
 " longer to sell dungaree, (a species of coarse linen); you are a gover- 
 " nor; come, you must be liberal, I bring you good intelligence: if I 
 " had been ordered to cut off your head, I would have done it with the 
 " greatest pleasure ; but now, as I bring you good news, I must have 
 " some money ." The man that said this was a servant, and the man 
 that bore it was the new Governor of Bushire. 
 
 In a few days Mahomed Jaffer paid us a visit, in appearance 
 perfectly unconscious of the indignities which he had suffered. But the 
 habitual despotism which the people are born to witness, familiarises 
 them so much to every act of violence which may be inflicted on them- 
 selves or on others, that they view all events with equal indifference, 
 and go in and out of prison, are bastinadoed, fined, and exposed to 
 every ignominy, with an apathy which nothing but custom and fatalism 
 could produce. 
 
 On the 4th of Dec. the restored Vice-Governor was invested with a 
 kalaat, or dress of honour, from the Prince at Shiraz; and his digni- 
 ties were announced by the discharge of cannon. The form of his in- 
 vestiture was as follows : — Attended by all the great men, and by all his 
 guards (the greater part of whom were the shopkeepers of the Bazar 
 armed for the occasion), the new Governor issued from the town to meet 
 his vest. As soon as he met it he alighted from his horse, and making 
 a certain obeisance was presented with it by the person deputed by the 
 Prince to convey it The whole party then rode to the spot appointed 
 for the investiture ; thither the kalaat was brought in state on a tray, 
 surrounded by other trays decked with sweet-meats. The Governor 
 
Xfggg 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 27 
 
 was here assisted to throw off his old clothes, and to put on his new 
 and distinguishing apparel. The whole present consisted of a pon- 
 derous brocade coat with a sash, and another vest trimmed with furs, 
 and valued altogether at one hundred and fifty piastres, though the 
 receiver would pay for the honour (in presents to the bearer and to the 
 Prince in return) the sum, perhaps, of a thousand tomauns. When he 
 was invested, his late clothes were carried away as the perquisite of the 
 servants. After this, the firman was read, declaring the motives which 
 had induced the Prince to confer so marked an honour on Ac a Ma- 
 homed Jaffer, and then every one present complimented him on 
 the occasion, with a " Moobarek basked, Good fortune attend you." 
 After this the company smoked, drank coffee, and eat sweet cakes ; 
 and then mounting their horses escorted the Governor into his town. 
 The Governor, in his glittering but uneasy garb, re-entered Bushire, 
 amid the noise of cannon and the bustle of a gaping multitude ; and 
 the ceremony closed. 
 
 These honours were conferred on Aga Mahomed Jaffer, as a 
 compensation for his late indignities, probably through the influence of 
 his brother ; but his brother had a less questionable merit, than that of 
 thus revenging the wrongs of his own family : for to his influence his 
 deposed predecessor owed his life. When the unhappy Sheik of 
 Bushire was dragged to Shiraz, and hurried into the presence of the 
 Prince, all his crimes real or fictitious were immediately accumulated in 
 his face. Of every vice in the catalogue of enormity he was pronounced 
 guilty, till the passions of the Prince were so exasperated, that he or- 
 dered his victim to be decapitated on the spot. Mahomed Nebee 
 Khan then threw himself at the Prince's feet, and entreated that the 
 life of the wretch might be spared. The Prince was sufficiently ap- 
 peased to grant the supplication, but ordered the Sheik to be blinded. 
 Again, a second time, his intercessor threw himself at the Prince's feet, 
 and saved the prisoner's eyes. The Prince contented himself with 
 ordering the Sheik into confinement. 
 
 The particular interest which these changes might have excited in the 
 
 e 2 
 
28 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE. 
 
 people, is swallowed up by the consideration, that their new masters in 
 every change are Persians, and that the rule of Arabs is over. A feeling 
 which naturally did not conciliate the Arab community to any successor 
 of their Sheik. The general impression was not ill-expressed by an old 
 Arab, whom we found fishing along the shore. " What is our Gover- 
 " nor ? A few days ago he was a merchant in the Bazar ; then he was 
 " our Governor : yesterday he was chained by the neck in prison ; to- 
 " day he is our Governor again ; what respect can we pay him ? 
 " The Governor that is to be, was a few years ago a poor scribe ; and 
 " what is worse he is a Persian. It is clear that we Arabs shall now go 
 " to the wall, and the Persians will flourish." 
 
CHAP. III. 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE WITH THE PERSIAN GOVERNMENT! INTRO- 
 DUCTION OF THE EUROPEAN DISCIPLINE AT SHIRAZ — MILI- 
 TARY PREPARATIONS — PERSIAN LETTER — (DERVEISHEs) — CON- 
 DUCT OF THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE — PRESENT TO THE ENVOY 
 
 FROM THE COURT — MEHMANDAR ARRIVAL OF AN OFFICER 
 
 FROM SHIRAZ DESCRIPTION OF HIS PARTY — HIS VISIT RE- 
 TURNED CEREMONIES OF A VISIT — FEAST OF THE BAIRAM — 
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE CAPTURE AND RECAPTURE OF THE SYLPH 
 — DEATH OF MR. COARE. 
 
 J. HE negociation was begun at Bushire. On the day after our land- 
 ing the Envoy despatched his letters to Jaffer Ali Khan, the acting 
 English agent at Shiraz ; and through him to the Prince Hossein Ali 
 Mirza, Governor of Farsistan ; to the Prince's Minister, Nasr 
 Oalah Khan; and to the Prime Minister at Teheran, Mirza Shef- 
 feea. These letters all contained the simple statement, that the writer 
 had arrived as Envoy Extraordinary from the King of Great Britain to 
 the King of Persia, in order to confirm and augment the amity which 
 had so long existed between the two countries. 
 
 On the 19th of Oct. we received despatches from Jaffer Ali 
 Khan at Shiraz; which, among the more immediate topics of the 
 
30 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 correspondence, contained naturally full accounts of the progress of the 
 campaign with the Russians, (the most important object in the existing 
 politics of Persia), and the general sensations which it had excited at 
 Teheran. These details retain of course little interest; it is enough to 
 add, rather as a sketch of national character, that the King, in conse- 
 quence of his reverses, had distributed alms to the poor, had ordered 
 prayers to be said in the mosques, and the denunciations of vengeance 
 on all unbelievers to be read from the Koran. The military preparations 
 also were hastened at Shiraz (in some measure for a different object); 
 and the Russian prisoners there were ordered to drill the Persian troops, 
 who had been raised and equipped after a Russian manner. The ac- 
 count of this new corps was continued in other letters (which, on the 
 23d, we received in two days and a half from Shiraz). The Prince 
 was instructed to form a body of able young men, to shave them if 
 they had already beards, and to dress them in the Russian uniform. 
 There was at this time at Shiraz, another body also of seven hundred 
 hardy and active men, (of the Bolouk or P erg an ah of Aw in Mazan- 
 deran), who were in the same manner to be subjected to the discipline 
 of the Russian drill, to lose their beards, to substitute the firelock for 
 the matchlock gun, (which they had been accustomed to use), and to 
 assume the whole dress of the Russian soldiery. Mahomed Zeky 
 Khan and Sheik Root a Khan were appointed their commanders. 
 The Jezaerchi also, the men who use blunderbusses, were to wear the 
 new Russian dress. The French at this time were very anxious to pro- 
 ceed to Shiraz, to drill the new-raised corps ; but as the King prevented 
 them in a former instance from sending a Resident to Bnshire lest they 
 should have found that the English factory was still in Persia, he now 
 equally prevented their advancing to Shiraz, lest the English in their 
 turn should discover the arrival of their competitors. New gun-car- 
 riages after the Russian form were ordered (though those before made 
 after the same pattern broke to pieces at the first fire), and five thousand 
 new firelocks ; but as the Prince found great difficulty in procuring the 
 execution of a former order of two thousand only, he had in this in- 
 stance sent into Laridan for three thousand matchlock guns, and into 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 31 
 
 other provinces for the remainder, to convert them at Skiraz into fire- 
 locks, by affixing to the original barrel the new lock. Provisions also, 
 of all sorts, were collecting into magazines at Shiraz. These prepara* 
 tions were hastened by the Prince himself from personal motives. His 
 dexterity in hitting a mark with a gun at full gallop, and in cutting 
 asunder an ass with one blow of his sword had been so much exagge- 
 rated, that the King became desirous of witnessing these exploits, and 
 would have sent for his son to court, if the apprehensions at this time of 
 General Malcolm's return from India with an army had not furnished 
 a seasonable necessity for the Prince's presence in his own provinces ; 
 and he prepared himself therefore, with great zeal, to inarch to Bender- 
 Abassy, to await there the arrival of the English in the Persian Gulph. 
 
 As a specimen of Persian wit, as well as in the relation of a Persian's 
 proficiency in English, I extract literally, from Jaffer Ali/s letter, the 
 following account of the Prince of Shiraz : — " As he is a great quiz 
 " and flatterer, he flattered me much, and I made an equal return to 
 " him. Owing to the immense dust that blown all the while upon the 
 • road, my face and beard covered with dust, and appearing myself to 
 " be white, the Prince therefore sayed to me, that my black beard be- 
 " came with grey hairs in his service ; I returned that whoever serves 
 " Khadmnte Booznrk Whan (His Highness) becomes white-faced for 
 " eternity, as the common proverb among the Persians, that when a man 
 " serves his master with zeal, he says to his servant * roo sefeed, white 
 " face/ and on the contrary they say ' roo seeah, black face:'" two 
 very common expressions in the country, denoting severally honour and 
 disgrace.* 
 
 It is not an unfair criterion of the new impulse which the Court of 
 
 * When Amurath I. instituted the Janizaries, a celebrated Dervi-h pronounced this 
 blessing over the new corps : " Let them be called Janizaries ( Yengi Cherts, or new 
 * soldiers) maj their countenance be ever bright ! their hand victorious ! their sword 
 K keen ! may their spears always hang over the heads of their enemies ! and wheresoever 
 " they go, may they return with a white face." Gibbon's note illustrates the text by the 
 Roman phrase, Hie nigerest, hunc tu, Romane, caveto. Vol. VI. p. 320, 4to. 
 
32 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 Persia had received, to add, that by second orders from Teheran, as they 
 were reported to us, the Princes of the districts were required to adopt 
 in their own persons the Russian uniform. The Prince of Tabriz, Abbas 
 Mirza, had already conformed to the costume; and the Prince at 
 Shiraz, with a hundred of his immediate attendants, was preparing to 
 assume the same garb ; and as we learned on the 10th, by other dis- 
 patches, already appeared in it. The proposed adoption by Sultan 
 Selim, of the dress of the Nizam Gedid troops, was the signal of revolt 
 to his Janizaries, and the direct cause of his dethronement. The na- 
 tional levity of the Persians counteracts the original rigour of their reli- 
 gious principles, and disposes them, from the mere love of change, to 
 admit the encroachments of European manners, which would rouse to 
 despair and revenge the less volatile character of the Turks, and ani- 
 mate them in defence of their least usage with all the first enthusiasm of 
 their faith.* 
 
 " * A circumstance, connected with the more permanent superstitions of Persia, occurred 
 " during the first part of our stay at Bushire, which may be worth mentioning. A 
 " Derveish settled himself for many days at the door of the Assistant Resident's house, 
 " and did not quit it till he had extorted from the Envoy a donation often rupees. These 
 " men wander about from place to place ; and, as their demands are sanctioned by long 
 " usage, they levy wherever they go, their established dues.* Mr. Bruce told me, that 
 " on his first arrival in the country, a Derveish came to him and asked the sum of ten 
 " piastres ; he was refused, but he persisted that he would not depart till he should receive 
 " it. He accordingly stationed himself at the door, and commenced his conjuring, crying 
 " ( Hag, Hag, Hag,' unceasingly for days and nights, till he had worked himself up into 
 u a frenzy, in which his cries became quite horrible. To get rid of such a nuisance, Mr. 
 " Bruce was glad at last to pay the price which his tormentor originally charged. Mr. 
 " Manesty, the East India Company's Resident at Bussorah, was attacked more 
 "formidably, and defended himself with more perseverance, but without better success. 
 " A Derveish demanded a hundred piastres, and being of course refused, settled himself 
 " at the door, and remained there two years, when Mr. Manesty was at last forced to 
 " yield, and paid the full sum required. 
 
 * Lord Teicnmouth, in an interesting Paper in the Asiat. Res. IV. p. SS-i-. 4 ), mentions a similar custom (" titling 
 ** Dkcrnu") in a different religion. " Brahmins even in Calcuttn have been known to obtain charity or subsistence from 
 " the Hindus, by posting themselves before the door of their houses, under a declaration to remain there until their 
 " solicitations were granted.'' The religious mendicants of India have sometime!, assembled in a body of 5000 men. 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 33 
 
 Thougk the conduct of the negociations with Persia had no con- 
 nexion with the mere change of masters in Bushire, which was effected 
 
 " From Mr. Bruce also I learned the following more curious tale. Mr. Hanker 
 ft Smith since he has been the Resident at Bushire, was told that a Deroeish wished 
 u to see him : but believing that he was one of those, who make these tours of licensed 
 " pillage through the country, he desired that the man might be sent away with the custom- 
 u ary and unavoidable donation of a few piastres. He was informed however, that hig 
 " visitor was no common Deroeish; that he was in fact the Peish-namaz (the Chief Priest) 
 " of Busline, and a man of corresponding reputation among his people. The stranger 
 " was accordingly admitted and received with every civility. In a second visit he asked 
 u so many questions about Calcutta, Mr. Hastings, and his trial, and other subject* 
 " which were equally new in the conversation of a Deroeish, that the Resident candidly 
 " told him, that he believed him to be no Mussulman. The conjecture was well-founded: 
 " the Peish-Namaz immediately acknowledged that he was a Frenchman of the name of 
 " Talamash ; that he had served the English government under Mr. Hastings, and 
 l( having received some disgust, had quitted Calcutta ; and since that time had done 
 " nothing but travel. He had been all over India, thence to Cashmire, and had resided 
 u a long time at Cabul in the court of Zemaun Shah; and had traversed the greater 
 " part of Persia, in every place imposing himself upon the people as the devoutest of the 
 " true believers. He was a very intelligent man, and had particularly made himself 
 " master of all the secrets of the Afghan politics, and had acquired a possession of the 
 " languages so complete and correct, that the finest native ear could detect no foreign 
 " accent. Probably no European ever saw so much of Asia, or saw it to such advantage. 
 " From Bushire he went to Bahrein, where also he was made the Peish-Namaz. From 
 " Bahrein he proceeded to Surat; where his varied and accurate knowledge of the man- 
 " ners, customs, and languages of all the different nations and classes in the mixed popu- 
 " lation of that city, divided, according to Mr. Bruce, the opinions of the people; and 
 " made the Arabs claim him as an original Arab ; the Persians, as a Persian ; and the 
 " Mussulmans of Hindoostan as equally their own. From this place M. Talamash addres- 
 " sed the English government of India, and conveyed to them more particularly his know- 
 " ledge of the views of the Afghan court : but his communications did not receive the 
 " attention which he expected, and being left without the hope of employment again in 
 "India, he repaired to the Mauritius. There he associated with a band of adventurers 
 " like himself, fitted out a small vessel as a privateer, and went into the Red Sea. But 
 " here he fell in with the Leopard, Admiral Blanket ; and thinking her an Indiafl^ship, 
 " made an attempt to board her, and was of course taken. He was then sent to Bombay, 
 u and thence got once more to the Mauritius, from which time nothing more has been 
 H heard of him. 
 
34 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 during our residence on the spot, and there was, therefore, little direct 
 political intercourse between the Envoy and the Nasakchee Bash-ee, (the 
 Chief Executioner), who superintended those changes : yet as that 
 officer was the ostensible representative of the Government of Shiraz, 
 some communications naturally took place. Before the assumption of 
 the administration of Bushire, (while the Khans object was yet unat- 
 tained), there was in this intercourse little unsatisfactory ; but in his 
 later conduct to the mission, the: was something of the insolence of 
 newly acquired power; he sent word more than once that he was 
 coming to pay a visit to the Envoy, and as frequently neglected his 
 engagement. At length he arrived, puffing in great haste; and as soon 
 as he had seated himself, he pulled off his black sheep-skin cap, and 
 begun to read a paper which he took from his pocket. The Envoy 
 asked him, if he were reading a firman from the court, which ordered 
 him to sit bald-headed. The reproof startled him, and the Envoy con- 
 tinued ; that, representing as he did his Sovereign, he could not permit 
 the Khan to do in his presence an act of disrespect which he would not 
 do before his equals, and much less before his superiors. The Khan 
 immediately put on his cap, and in his shame waved his hand for his 
 attendants to withdraw. Sir Harford also ordered his own Persians 
 to retire, and as the suite were in succession leaving the room the Khan 
 had some leisure to digest the well-timed rebuke. 
 
 The notice which the Envoy had been thus obliged to take of an ap- 
 parent disrespect in the Khans conduct was the more necessary, as He 
 had that morning received a letter from the Prince at Shiraz, the form 
 and terms of which required some explanation ; and on which, there- 
 
 " This is a very rare instance of the successful assumption by an European of an Eastern 
 " character. I have known, in Turkey, several renegado Englishmen, who could never 
 " sufficiently disguise themselves to be taken for original Mussulmans." 
 
 It must be understood, however, that Talamash is believed to have been born at Con- 
 stantinople, of a French father indeed, yet from his earliest youth to have been unfettered 
 by a conformity to European usages. 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 35 
 
 fore, the Envoy felt himself compelled to remark, that the correspon- 
 dence during the negociation must be absolutely and in every view in- 
 dependent ; and He desired the Khan accordingly to intimate this de- 
 termination to the Prince's Minister. The representation was immedi- 
 ately successful ; and to the line of conduct thus enforced, both parties 
 adhered throughout their future communications. 
 
 When this matter was adjusted, much friendly conversation followed, 
 and the affair of the cap and bald-head was laughed over. The Envoy 
 expressed indeed his wish to render the Khan in his visit as comfort- 
 able as possible ; but repeated also his resolution to suffer no act of 
 inattention before servants and strangers. The Khan accordingly 
 (though as it was the Ramazan he would not smoke) left us seemingly 
 well pleased. 
 
 But in another instance the same want of respect was visible, though 
 the effect probably of ignorance only. On the 30th Oct. he sent a 
 present of some fruit and two horses, one for the Envoy and one for 
 the East India Company's Assistant Resident. Sir Harford imme- 
 diately returned that destined for himself, to remind the Khan of the 
 distinction. 
 
 On the 8th of Nov. arrived, carried on fourteen mules, the balconah^ 
 the customary present to an Embassador. It consisted of the following 
 articles : — 
 
 50 Lumps of loaf sugar, 
 
 35 Small boxes of different kinds of sweetmeats, 
 
 1 Mule load of lime-juice, consisting of ninety-six bottles, 
 23 Bottles of orange and other kinds of sherbet, 
 22 Bottles of different kinds of preserves, pickles, &c. 
 4 Mule loads of musk-melons, 
 1 Ditto of Ispahan quinces, 
 
 Half ditto of apples, 
 1 Ditto of pomegranates, 
 1 Ditto of wine, thirty-nine bottles. 
 The whole was accompanied by a letter from Nasr Oalah Khait, 
 
 f 2 
 
36 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 the Minister at Shiraz, replete with compliment and inquiries about 
 health, and entrusted to the care of Aga Mahomed Ali, one of the 
 Prince's servants, who received for himself from the Envoy a present of 
 five hundred piastres. The great men profit by these opportunities of 
 enriching by such returns any servant to whom in their own persons 
 they may owe an obligation, and to whom they thus, cheaply to them- 
 selves, repay it. But the charge of a present is frequently made the 
 matter of a bargain among the adherents of the donor, and perhaps is 
 sometimes purchased directly from the great man himself. 
 
 On the 13th of Nov. we were informed, that a Mehmandar had been 
 appointed by the court to escort the Envoy to Teheran. The title of 
 Mehmandar has been familiarized to an English reader by His Majesty's 
 appointment of Sir Gore Ouseley to fill the station during the resi- 
 dence in England of Mirza Abul Hassan, late Envoy Extraordinary 
 from the Kins; of Persia to the Court of London. But the duties 
 which, in England, the most active Mehmandar could comprize within 
 his office are comparatively very limited to those which are indispensably 
 attached to a similar station in Persia. The Mehmandar is the Super- 
 intendant and Purveyor assigned to the dignity and ease of foreign 
 Embassadors ; the relative facility, therefore, with which he can dis- 
 charge these functions must vary of course with the state of society 
 in different countries. In England money procures every accommoda- 
 tion ; but money alone can procure it now : purveyance, however, in 
 its feudal sense, unfortunately for the people, still exists in its full 
 force in Persia; and the Mehmandar, under the commission of his Sove- 
 reign, is entitled to demand from the provinces through which he passes 
 every article in every quantity which he may deem expedient for his 
 mission. And as there is no public accommodation on the road where, 
 at every hour as in England, these supplies may be procured, they are 
 extorted from the private stores of the villagers. Besides every requi- 
 site of provision and conveyance, the firman of the Mehmandar some- 
 times includes even specie among the articles thus necessary in the 
 passage. It is not, therefore, wonderful, that the officer entrusted with 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 37 
 
 this power, though generally a man of high rank, is generally also un- 
 derstood to purchase the nomination at very large prices. The propor- 
 tion of the purchase is the proportion of course of the demands on the 
 country : the villager groans under the oppression, but in vain shrinks 
 from it ; every argument of his poverty is answered, if by nothing else, 
 at least by the bastinado. 
 
 The information of the appointment was premature: Mahomed 
 Hassan Kuan, an officer of rank, had indeed been dispatched from 
 Shiraz, but he was entrusted with a more private commission to the 
 Envoy. On the 19th his immediate approach to Bushire was an- 
 nounced. As, independently of the confidence which by this mission 
 the Government appeared to repose in him, he possessed high personal 
 rank, (as one of the Chiefs of the Karagiizlou tribe, one of the most nu- 
 merous, warlike, and respectable of all under the jurisdiction of Persia,) 
 the first Minister at Shiraz wrote to the Envoy to desire that He would 
 send the person next in rank to himself to receive him. The Envoy 
 accordingly ordered me to proceed on the occasion. I went, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Bruce and Dr, Jukes, and escorted by Cornet Wii> 
 lock with ten troopers, and five Chattars. The Chattars are those 
 running footmen who, in fantastical dresses, generally surround the horse 
 of a great man ; but the name is applied not only to these attendants of 
 shew, but to those messengers also who perform their journies on foot, 
 and perform them with a dispatch almost incredible. When we had 
 proceeded about a mile we met the stranger. He was thinly at- 
 tended, having travelled in haste. When we approached, our 
 little squadron drew up in a line as he passed ; and we ad- 
 vanced, and made our respective compliments. We then all turned 
 back together, and brought him into the presence of the Envoy, who 
 received him sitting on one corner of the sopha, but rose just as he 
 approached it, We were all dressed with more or less ornament in 
 honour of our guest ; and during his visit we kept on our hats. The 
 Nasakchee Basket had already fallen into his train, when we first met 
 him ; and during the short stay which he now made, the Vice-governor. 
 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 of Bushire, Aga Mahomed Jaffer, came to pay his respects also. 
 He advanced immediately to the Khan, seized his hand, which he 
 kissed, whilst the Khan applied his beard and mouth to the other's 
 face, and kissed his cheek. The manners of our guest himself were 
 pleasant and modest, and spoke the simplicity of a man bred in camps. 
 When the Envoy had inquired after his health, the health of the Prince, 
 of the minister, and successively of other great men, the stranger, after 
 the interchange of a few compliments, departed to take up his abode with 
 the Vice-governor. As he entered Bushire, the guns at the gate were 
 fired, but one of them could not bear the shock, and flew out of the 
 carriage. For fear therefore of the gates and tower, they did not ven- 
 ture to discharge the sixty-eight pounder, which was mounted in the 
 town ; an apprehension not purely imaginary. 
 
 The party appeared particularly gloomy : their clothes were of a dark 
 hue, and their caps and their beards were of the deepest black. Every 
 one had a musket, a sword, a brace of pistols, and a great variety of 
 little conveniences, as powder-flasks* cartouche-boxes, hammers, drivers, 
 &c. so that the aggregate equipment displayed every man a figure 
 made up for fighting. The Khan was dressed exactly like his fol- 
 lowers, and was alone distinguished by carrying fewer arms. He 
 had, indeed, one Yeduk or led horse before him. The trappings of their 
 horses are very simple, compared to those of the Turks. The head-stall 
 of the bridle has little bits of gold and silver, or brass fixed to it, with- 
 out the tassels, chains, half-moons, or beads of a Turkish bridle. Nor 
 have they the splendid breast-plate, or the bright and massy stirrup of 
 the Turkish cavalry. Their saddle itself is much more scanty in the 
 seat, nor is it so much elevated behind. The only finery of a Persian 
 saddle is a raised pummel either gilt or silvered ; and a saddle-cloth, or 
 rather an elegant kind of carpetting, trimmed with a deep fringe. 
 
 On the next day, the Envoy directed me to return, in his name, the 
 visit of Mahomed Hassan Khan. He was lodged in the house 
 which then belonged to the Vice-governor, but which had been the 
 property of the lateHAjEE Khelil Khan, (the Embassador of Persia, 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 39 
 
 who was unfortunately killed at Bombay.) The room into which we 
 were introduced was very pleasant, and by far more agreeable than any 
 thing that I had expected at Bit shire. Two pillars, neatly inlaid with 
 looking-glasses, supported it on one side, and thus separated it from a 
 small court, which was crowded with servants. An orange tree stood in 
 the centre of the court. The walls of the room were of a beautiful 
 white stucco, resembling plaster of Paris ; and large curtains were sus- 
 pended around them, to screen in every position the company from the 
 sun. The Khan was seated in a corner, and having taken off our shoes 
 at the door, we paid our respects severally, and then settled ourselves 
 according to our rank. When we were arranged, he went about sepa- 
 rately to each, and with an inclination of his head, told us we were 
 welcome, (" Khosh Amedced") The Vice-governor next appeared, 
 and sat respectfully at a little distance. He was followed by the Gover- 
 nor of the small neighbouring district of Dasti, a rough looking man, 
 who exchanged a kiss with the Khan. We had kaleoow, (the water 
 pipe), then sweet sherbet, then again the kaleoans. Few words passed, 
 and we did little except look at each other. Two or three Arabs came 
 in, and were welcomed by the Khan with the " khosh amedeed" as they 
 seated themselves at the further end of the room. The measurement of 
 their distances in a visit seems a study of most general application in 
 Persia ; and the knowledge of compliments is the only knowledge dis- 
 played in their meetings ; if, indeed, the visits of ceremony, which alone 
 we witnessed, could be considered a fair specimen of national manners or 
 the state of society. 
 
 When visited by a superior, the Persian rises hastily and meets his 
 guest nearly at the door of the apartment : on the entrance of an equal, 
 he just raises himself from his seat, and stands nearly erect ; but to an 
 inferior he makes the motion only of rising. When a great man is 
 speaking, the style of respect in Persia is not quite so senile as that in 
 India. In listening the Indians join their hands together, (as in England 
 little children are taught to do in prayer,) place them on their breast, 
 and making inclinations of the body sit mute. A visit is much less 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 luxurious in Persia than in Turkey. Instead of the sophas and the easy 
 pillows of Turkey, the visitor in Persia is seated on a carpet or mat 
 without any soft support on either side, or any thing except his hands, 
 or the accidental assistance of a wall, to relieve the galling posture of 
 his legs. The misery of that posture in its politest form can scarcely be 
 understood by description : you are required to sit upon your heels, as 
 they are tucked up under your hams after the fashion of a camel. To 
 us, this refinement was impossible ; and we thought that we had attained 
 much merit in sitting cross-legged as tailors. In the presence of his 
 superiors a Persian sits upon his heels, but only cross-legged before his 
 equals, and in any manner whatever before his inferiors. To an Eng- 
 lish frame and inexperience, the length of time during which the 
 Persian will thus sit untired on his heels, is most extraordinary ; some- 
 times for half a day, frequently even sleeping. They never think of 
 changing their positions, and like other Orientals consider our loco- 
 motion to be as extraordinary as we can regard their quiescence. When 
 they see us walking to and fro, sitting down, getting up, and moving 
 in every direction, often have they fancied that Europeans are tor- 
 mented by some evil spirit, or that such is our mode of saying our 
 prayers. 
 
 Before the close of our visit, it was settled that the Khan should send 
 in the course of that evening the letters with which he had been charged 
 to the Envoy, and that on the morrow he should come to a personal 
 conference, and open his verbal communications. 
 
 The Ramazan was now over: the new moon, which marks the termi- 
 nation, was seen on the preceding evening just at sun-set, when the ships 
 at anchor fired their guns on the occasion ; and on the morning of our 
 visit, the Bairam was announced by the discharge of cannon. A large 
 concourse of people, headed by the Peish Namaz, went down to the sea- 
 side to pray, and when they had finished their prayers, more cannon 
 were discharged. Just before we passed through the gates of the town 
 in returning from our visit, we rode through a crowd of men, women, 
 and children, all in their best clothes, who, by merry-making of every 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 41 
 
 kind were celebrating the feast. Among their sports, I discovered some- 
 thing like the round-about of an English fair, except that it appeared 
 of a much ruder construction. It consisted of two rope-seats suspended, 
 in the form of a pair of scales, from a large stake fixed in the ground. 
 In these were crowded full-grown men who, like boys, enjoyed the conti- 
 nual twirl, in which the conductor of the sport, a poor Arab, was labour- 
 ing with all his strength to keep the machine. 
 
 The feast itself of the Bairam begins of course successively in every 
 season of the natural year, for in the formation of their civil year the 
 Persians, like other Mahomedans, adopt lunar months. When it occurs 
 in summer, the Ramazan, or month of fasting which precedes it, be- 
 comes extremely severe; every man of every kind of business, the la- 
 bourer in the midst of the hardest work, is forbidden to take any kind 
 of nourishment from sun-rise to sun-set, during the longest days of the 
 year. Their full day is calculated from sun-set to sun-set, but their sub- 
 division of time varies like that of the Hindoos and Mussulmans of 
 India, according to the difference of the length of the natural day. In 
 their calculation of the close of the fast, and the commencement of the 
 Bairam, they are seldom assisted by almanacks: it frequently happens, 
 therefore, that the same feast is celebrated two days earlier, or de- 
 layed two days later in different parts of the country, according to 
 the state of the atmosphere : as the new moon may be obscured by 
 clouds in one city or displayed in another by the clearness of the sky. 
 
 On the 21st of November Mahomed Hassan Khan Karaguzlou 
 paid the appointed visit to the Envoy. A part of the body guard was 
 sent out to meet him, and we received him as before in uniforms and 
 hats. After the usual ceremonies were over, the Envoy and his guest 
 retired to an inner apartment; and after a conference, which lasted four 
 hours, the Khan departed to Bushire with the same escort, to whom on 
 parting he gave a present of fifty Venetian sequins. The conference 
 had been satisfactory, as at dinner the Envoy announced to us that we 
 might now complete all our preparations for a journey to Teheran. Still 
 with a volatility not unusual in the diplomacy of the East, the Khan 
 
42 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 two days afterwards refused to sign, in the name of the Persian Govern- 
 ment, the note of the terms on which they had agreed at their meeting : 
 and at ten o'clock at night the Vice-Governor, and the two Moomhees, 
 came to us. After a long debate they departed ; and, to the satisfac- 
 tion of all parties the business was finally settled the next morning, 
 when, previous to his return to Shiraz, the Khan paid his farewell visit 
 to the Envoy. 
 
 He returned to Shiraz ; and, as we learned by our next dispatches 
 from Jaffer Ali, immediately appeared before the Prince, where he 
 talked for "seven hours without stopping once/' on the Envoy and his 
 merits. Jaffer Att added, that he himself had dined with the 
 Prince's Prime Minister, and that they also had talked till two o'clock 
 in the morning on the same alluring subject. After having both 
 agreed that, by the progress of the negociation, they had already ren- 
 dered themselves immortal, they retired to rest, and the next morning, 
 the Minister, on the appointment of a Mehmandar to the mission, 
 asked Jaffer Ali for the Moodjdihlook, or customary present, for 
 which accordingly he received a Cashmirian shawl. In general politics 
 the dispatches stated, that the Russians had renewed hostilities, though 
 General Gardanne, the French Embassador in Persia, had sent four 
 of his officers to the Russian Commander to entreat that he would de- 
 sist from any further operations ; but the Russian answered, that his 
 master had ordered him to fight on. The failure of this attempt had 
 greatly contributed to disgrace the cause of the French ; and the Court 
 retrenched in consequence their daily allowances. 
 
 The Mehmandar, who was announced in these dispatches, was Ma- 
 homed Zeky Khan, (the chief of the Noory tribe, one of the new 
 modeled corps) a great favourite at the Court of Teheran, and with the 
 Prince of Shiraz, and advanced lately by the King to the dignity of 
 Khan. It was added also, that his appointments were more magni- 
 ficent than any which had ever before been annexed to the Mehmandar 
 of an English Envoy ; and, as a further proof of the estimation in which 
 His Majesty's mission was held, Jaffer Ali stated, that the Prince 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 43 
 
 had prepared for him, as our acting Agent at Shiraz, sl rich dress of 
 honour, which, however, he had found means to decline from a fear of 
 the jealousy which it might have excited against him. But the Prince, 
 resolved on bestowing upon him some distinguishing mark of his favour, 
 had given him a shawl, which belonged to one of his own head-dresses, 
 and a young and promising Arab horse,which had been sent as a present 
 to himself by the Governor of Chabi. So well indeed had Jaffer Ali 
 deserved the confidence of both the negociating parties, that Sir Har- 
 ford Jones, now at the close of these preliminary arrangements, sent 
 him a patent constituting him the Agent for the British affairs at the 
 Court of Shiraz. 
 
 It will be recollected that the Nereide, the Sapphire, and the Sylph, 
 sailed with the mission from Bombay on the 12th of September. The 
 Nereide arrived first ; the Sapphire also reached Bushire about sun-set 
 on the 18th October. The Arab ships too, that we passed off Cape 
 Verdistan, had come in about noon on the same day, and had continued 
 firing their guns at distant intervals till the evening : but the Sylph, on 
 board which were the Persian Secretary and some of the presents, was 
 yet missing ; nor indeed had we seen her, since the second day after that 
 on which we had left together the harbour of Bombay. On the 29th 
 Oct. arrived the Nautilus, H. C. cruizer, which had sailed from the same 
 port on the 22 d Sept. Though she had neither seen or heard directly 
 any thing of the Sylph, yet the circumstances of her own passage pre- 
 pared us to anticipate the worst. The Nautilus had been attacked off 
 the large Tomb, in the Gulph of Persia, by the Joasmee pirates ; three 
 only were at first in sight, but on the signal of a gun, a fourth appeared, 
 and together they bore down, two on the quarters and two on the bows 
 of the Nautilus ; they were full of men, perhaps six hundred in the 
 four vessels, all armed with swords and spears, and, as they shouted 
 their religious invocations, they shook their weapons at the ship. When 
 the engagement became closer, they maintained a fire of twenty-five 
 minutes, and one of their shot killed the boatswain of the Nautilus. 
 
 Of these pirates an interesting account was published in India by Mr. 
 
 r o 
 
44 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 Loane, who was taken prisoner by them. It is unnecessary, therefore, 
 to add more on the subject than that their chief resort is at Roselkeim, 
 on the Arabian coast of the Gulph of Persia : another, but tributary, 
 chief of the same people resides twenty-five miles from Roselkeim at 
 Egmaim, S. S.W. of Cape Musseldom, where they possess an extensive 
 and lucrative pearl fishery. This, with the market which their 
 plunder finds there, is the principal source of the traffic of the place. 
 Though it may not be necessary to enter into a detail, which may be 
 better found in original authorities, it must be very obvious, that the 
 honour of our flag, as well as the interest of our commerce in the East, 
 will require the destruction of a fleet of pirates, which, assembling to 
 the amount or* fifty sail in the harbour of Roselkeim, issue thence to 
 capture every English as well as native ship, and to spread terror 
 through the Gulph of Persia.* 
 
 On the arrival of the Nautilus, under these circumstances, the Envoy 
 dispatched a htter to Captain Davis of the Sapphire, requesting him 
 to proceed to :he entrance or the Gulph, to secure the Sylph, if possible. 
 On the 6th Nov. a boat arrived from Roselkeim, at the date of the de- 
 parture of which no such capture had been made; but in three days, 
 another boat came in, which brought an account that four vessels had 
 been taken, one of which contained a Nawab. We immediately recog- 
 nized by this lescription the unfortunate Persian Secretary, the splen- 
 dour of whose dress had imposed him as a Nabob on the pirates. The 
 next day a still more circumstantial account of the capture reached us, 
 which convinced us that the vessel taken was the Sylph ; but the report 
 added, that a large vessel from Bashire (which we instantly identified 
 with the Nercide) came in sight during the action, and having sunk one 
 of the pirates, (of whose crew of three hundred scarcely any escaped), 
 retook their prize. In the action too, the pirates lost one of their first 
 chiefs, Sal ben Sal. The loss of one individual, the most insigni- 
 
 * See the note on their destruction, at the end. 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 45 
 
 ficant, of their tribe is sufficient cause for a declaration of war; but the 
 destruction of so large a portion of their whole numbers would dispirit 
 rather than so animate the remainder; and the tribe would probably 
 agree never again to approach an English ship. The pirates had, in 
 fact, been so disheartened by their disaster, that when, a few days after- 
 wards, a single Arab ship (commanded indeed by an Englishman) fell 
 among them, and, finding herself unable either to fight or to escape, 
 bore down upon them to try a shew of resistance, they all fled. At 
 length on the 26th Nov. the Minerva, H. C. cruizer, Captain Hopgood, 
 arrived, and brought the Persian Secretary, who had been captured in 
 the Sylph. The Secretary was much connected at Bushire, and his de- 
 tention had of course excited great uneasiness among his relations, who 
 had been putting up prayers in the mosques for his safety. His account 
 of their fate was not uninteresting. 
 
 At the time when the pirates were standing the same course with 
 herself, the Sylph discovered the Nereide bearing down upon her. When 
 the Nereide came close, she hove-to ; but as the commander of the 
 Sylph did not send a boat on board of her, she filled her sails and stood 
 on. When the Nereide had already passed at some distance, the two 
 dows stood towards the Sylph. The Persian Secretary advised the officer 
 of the ship not to permit the dows to approach ; but he would not 
 listen to the suggestion, as he declared they would not touch him. The 
 dozes, however, did approach so close, that the Sylph had only time to 
 fire one gun, and to discharge her musquetry at them, before they were 
 alongside, and poured on board her in great and overwhelming numbers. 
 It is unnecessary to state all the circumstances. The Persian Secretary 
 from the concealment to which he had fled, was still able to ascertain 
 that, as the first act of possession, the Arabs threw water on the ship 
 to purify it ; that they then proceeded to the deliberate murder of the 
 men, who were on deck or discoverable ; that they brought them one 
 by one to the gangway, and in the spirit of barbarous fanaticism cut 
 their throats as sacrifices; crying out before the slaughter of each 
 victim, " Ackbar" and when the deed was done, " Allah il Allah." 
 
46 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 In the space of an hour they had thus put to death twenty-two persons ; 
 and were proceeding with lights to look for more, when they were asto- 
 nished by a shot through the Sylph from the Nereide. On perceiving 
 the disaster of the Sylph, Captain Corbett had immediately hauled- 
 up ; and though far to the windward his shot still reached. The Arabs 
 immediately took to their dows ; and, elated by the havock of their 
 success, made for the Nereide. As soon as Captain Corbett per- 
 ceived that they were bearing down upon him, he ceased firing altoge- 
 ther. The Persian Secretary told us, that he saw the dows approach so 
 close to the frigate, that the Arabs were enabled to commence the at- 
 tack in their usual manner by throwing stones. Still the Nereide 
 did not fire ; till at length when both dows were fairly alongside, she 
 opened two tremendous broadsides. The Secretary said he saw one 
 dow disappear totally, and immediately ; and the other almost as in- 
 stantaneously : they went down with the crews crying, " Allah, Allah, 
 " Allah" Nine men only escaped, who had previously made off in a 
 boat. The Sylph was taken to Muscat, where the Persian Secretary 
 was put on board the Minerva.* 
 
 * " This account is from the mouth of a Persian ; it may therefore not be uninteresting to 
 " contrast it with the statement in the log-book of the Nereide. 
 
 « H. M. S. Nereide, Thursday, 21 Oct. 1808. 
 
 " At 9. A. M. saw two dows standing towards us under Arabian colours. 10.30. saw a 
 a strange sail S. S. E. Employed working up junk, &c. Noon : the above vessel past us, 
 " which proved to be the Honourable Company's schooner Sylph. P. M. moderate 
 " breezes and fine. 1.30. observed the dows haul-up and board the schooner; in studding 
 u sails, and haul'd our wind in chase of them : by this time they had the schooner in tow. 
 " Tacked occasionally to close. At 4. got within gun-shot and commenced firing. 4.30. 
 " observed the schooner's tow-rope gone, supposed by our shot ; still keeping a constant 
 " fire on the dows. 5.30. shot away one of the dow's yards. At 6. ditto, firing whenever 
 " the guns would bear : observed the schooner make signals of distress, and fire guns. 
 " The crew immediately deserted the dow when the yard was shot away, and went on 
 "board the other; continuing firing within musket shot round grape and musketry; 
 " hailed her repeatedly, but received no answer. At 8. ceased firing ; the dows apparently 
 " sinking: made sail for the schooner: at 9. hove-to, and sent a boat for the commander 
 
 " of the schooner ; he being severely wounded, gave Lieutenant C charge of the 
 
 u schooner, but returned with a seapoy severely wounded." 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 47 
 
 We had thus recovered the Persian Secretary ; but the mission soon 
 suffered the less reparable loss of one of its own members. On the 
 19th November, the Benares H. C. cruizer (which brought our tents, 
 some of the body guards, presents, &c. from Bussora) landed at 
 Bushire Mr. Co a re, the Persian and Latin Translator. He had car- 
 ried with him from Bussora a fever, which was gradually wasting him 
 away ; and after lingering out his few remaining days apparently with- 
 out pain, he died on the last day of the month. He was a young man 
 of whom all spoke well ; his talents were promising ; and his prospects 
 in the world were fine. He was laid in the Armenian burying-ground, 
 without a coffin ; because plank is so dear and scarce at Bushire, that 
 his remains would have been disturbed for the sake of the wood which 
 had enclosed them. His corpse was escorted to the grave by the body 
 guard and the seapoy guard, and followed by the Envoy and the gen- 
 tlemen of the mission. I read the funeral service over him, amid a 
 crowd of Persians and Arabs, who were collected to see the ceremony ; 
 and who seemed to partake the interest of the scene. Nothing excites 
 a better impression of our character than an appearance of devotion 
 and religious observance. If, therefore, there were no higher obligation 
 on every christian, religious observances are indispensable in producing 
 a national influence. We never omitted to perform divine service on 
 Sundays ; suffered no one to intrude upon us during our devotions ; 
 and used every means in our power to impress the natives with a proper 
 idea of the sanctity of our Sabbath, 
 

 CHAP. IV. 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 I. PERSIA— ADMINISTRATION OF THE GOVERNMENTS — FARSISTAN 
 — MEKRAN — BALOUCIIES — COAST OE THE GULPH — ISLANDS OF 
 THE GULPH — PEARL FISHERY. — II. BUSHIRE : SITUATION — DE- 
 SCRIPTION TRADE VIEW RUINS OF RESHIRE HALILA — 
 
 BUSHIRE ROADS WATER — WEATHER HEALTHINESS — WOMEN 
 
 OF BUSHIRE — SUPERSTITIONS. — III. ANIMALS OF THE DASHTIS- 
 TAN: HORSES— DOG — WHITE FOX — WILD BEASTS — HAWKS — THE 
 JERBOA. 
 
 I. IN historical interest, Persia is perhaps superior to any Asiatic 
 empire, because more nearly connected with the fortunes of Europe ; 
 and its natural situation shares the importance ; for its boundaries (de- 
 fined and fortified by lofty ranges, which are pervious only through 
 passes of very difficult access,) are prominent and decided objects in the 
 general geography of Asia. We had hitherto seen only the southern 
 chain : nothing can be more strongly marked than the abrupt and for- 
 bidding surface of those mountains, which bind the shore from Cape 
 Jasques to the deepest recesses of the gulph. The little plain of the 
 Dashtistan, (that of Bushire) which seems to have encroached upon the 
 sea, is yet the most extensive portion of even land, which relieves how- 
 ever momentarily the constant and chilling succession of high and 
 dreary lands along the coast. But beyond these mountains are fre- 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 49 
 
 quently extensive plains, confined by a second range, which likewise 
 run parallel to the coast. This is the case behind Congoon : and in the 
 route to Shiraz we found several successive plains, (of great absolute 
 elevation indeed, but) thus separated from each other by alternate ranges 
 of higher land. The plain of Merdasht, beyond Shiraz, is the Hollow 
 Persis of ancient geography. These great inequalities of surface natur- 
 ally produce a corresponding variety of climates. 
 
 The administration of the provinces of Persia is now committed to 
 the Princes. The jurisdiction of Prince Hossein Ali Mirza, 
 one of the King's Sons, is very extensive : it comprises, under the 
 general name of Farsistan, not only the original province of which Shiraz 
 was the capital (as subsequently it became that of all Persia, and as it 
 still is of the governments combined under the Prince) but Laristan also, 
 to the south ; and Bebehan to the north-west ; which severally, as well 
 as Farsistan, possessed before their particular Beglerbegs. 
 
 Of Farsistan, under this its present more extensive signification, the 
 hot and desert country is called the Germesir, a generic term for a warm 
 region, which will be recognised under the ancient appellations of 
 Germania, Kerrnania, or Carmania. The termination of the Persian 
 dominion in this direction, is an undefined tract between the Germesir 
 and the Mekran. It was the ancient boast of Persia, that its boundaries 
 were not a petty stream or an imaginary line, but ranges of impervious 
 mountains or deserts as impervious. In this quarter there is little pro- 
 bability that the country will ever become less valuable as a frontier, 
 by becoming more cultivated and better inhabited. The land is put to 
 so little use, that no power would greatly care to press the extension of 
 an authority so unprofitable. Every age has marked the unalterable 
 barbarism of the soil and of the people. The Balouchistan, or the 
 country of the Balouches, the most desert region of the coast begins 
 about Minou, on the west of Cape Jasques. Their country is perhaps 
 nearly the Mekran of geography. They once owned subjection to 
 Persia, but they have now resumed the independance of Arabs, and live 
 in wandering communities under the government of their own Sheiks, 
 
 n 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 of whom two are pre-eminent. They have indeed still some little com- 
 mercial connexion with Persia, and occasionally a Balouche is to be 
 seen in Bushire selling his scanty wares, mostly the mats of their own 
 manufacture. One of their Sheiks lives at Guadel on the coast of 
 Mekran; but in the interior, according to the account given by a 
 Balouche to Captain Salter, there is a very potent king, though I 
 cannot add from the same authority, whether he is of their own extrac- 
 tion. They live in continual wars with each other ; or let themselves 
 out to the different small powers in the gulph as soldiers. Many of the 
 guards of the Sheik of Bushire are Balouches ; and the Seapoys also on 
 board the Arab ships are of the same tribes. 
 
 In religion they are Mahomedans ; and like all those of India, are 
 Sunnis : but they have few means of preserving the genuineness of any 
 profession of faith ; and their ignorance has already confounded their 
 tenets with those of a very different original. The same common bar- 
 barism has indeed blended the Afghan, the Seik, and the Balouche into 
 one class : there may be among them some beard or whisker more or less, 
 some animal or food which they hold unclean above all others, some in- 
 describable difference of opinion which severs them from their neighbours, 
 but in savageness they are all identified. Those on the coast still live 
 almost exclusively on fish, as in the days ofNEAiicHus; though I am 
 told they no longer build their houses with the bones. The grampus 
 (possibly, the whale of Arrian) is still numerous on the shores. The 
 Envoy remembered to have seen at Bushire on a former occasion, a dog 
 of an immense size, which a Balouche had given to Mr. Galley, the 
 Resident at that time : the man added, that the mountains towards his 
 country were all very high. His dog seemed to confirm the assertion, 
 for he was defended against the cold of his native region, by a coat of 
 thick and tufted hair. 
 
 Though the Balouches scarcely advance within the gulph, yet the 
 native Persians do not fully occupy their own shores. The coast still 
 retains a great proportion of Arab families. The Dashtistan, which 
 extends from Cape Bang to the plain of Bushire, was till lately governed 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 51 
 
 by them. The district of Dasti, also along the coast from Bushire to 
 below Congodn, still remains under their rule : and the Arab Sheik of 
 Congoon in the adjoining territory, possesses a kind of independance. 
 
 At Tauhree, (or Tahrie) a port just below Co?igoo?i, are extensive ruins 
 and sculptures, with the Persepolitan character. The landmarks for 
 the entrance of the harbour are two large white spots, on the summit of 
 a mountain, which the people of the country affirm to have been made 
 by the hand of man ; and which, on the same traditional authority, are 
 said to have been formerly covered with glass. The reflection thus pro- 
 duced by the sun s rays, rendered the object visible to a great distance at 
 sea, and guided the navigator in safety into the road. Some of the 
 glass is said to remain at this day. Among the ruins of the city are two 
 wells pierced to a great depth ; and stabling for a hundred horses exca- 
 vated from the solid rock : the existence of these remains, I understand, 
 Mr. B — k of the E. I. Company's service ascertained himself. 
 
 At Khar rack, a place still further in the progress down the Gulph, 
 between Cape Series and Cape Bustion, is a town which was once in 
 the possession of the Danes ; and it is singular that the people who 
 claim a Danish blood are still very fair complexioned, and have light 
 red hair, which may confirm their traditional accounts of their origin. 
 The same nation had also an establishment in a deep bay near Mussel- 
 dom ; and the fort exists to this day. On Cape Bustion there is a mine 
 of copper, which was formerly worked by the Portuguese : they built 
 also a fort there, which still exists, but the mine is no longer worked, 
 and indeed is almost forgotten. Some years ago, Mr. Bruce, the 
 Assistant Resident at Bushire, was a prisoner among the Arabs on this 
 part of the coast. He was told, that immediately behind the range of 
 mountains which lines their shore, there was a river that came from 
 near Shiraz, and run down to Gombroon ; this is, probably, the Bend- 
 emir, which, according to other accounts, is traced indeed towards Gom- 
 broon, but there expends itself in the sands. Khoresser is the name of 
 a small river which falls into the sea nearly under the Asses Ears; and 
 on the banks of which is situated the town of Tangistoun. At the 
 
 H 
 
 '■» 
 
m 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 mouth of this river is a small island, formed by the sands brought, 
 down ; which adapts this situation to Aruian's account of Hieratemis. 
 At the place marked by Dr. Vincent as Podargus there is now no 
 torrent: but 1 learn from Dr. Jukes and Mr. Bruce, that at Harem, 
 situated thirty miles inland on the declivity of the mountains to the 
 eastward, there is a water which finds its way to the sea, and may, per- 
 haps, accord with the position required. 
 
 The islands in the Gulph of Persia retain little of their political cele- 
 brity. Ormus (ever the most barren, its soil being composed of salt and 
 sulphur) still displays its arched reservoirs, which afford good watering 
 places for vessels, and which are said never to dry up. On the island of 
 Kenn 9 according to the people of the country, is found, after rain, gold 
 dust in the channels of the torrents. And Bahrein, which is now in 
 the hands of the Wahabees, is still noted for the fresh springs which issue 
 from the earth under the sea, and from which the Arabs contrive to 
 water their ships by placing over the spot a vessel with a syphon at- 
 tached to it. Captain Skeine, who commanded an Arab ship, told 
 the gentleman (who communicated the circumstances to me), that he 
 had himself drawn the water at the depth of one fathom. The same 
 submarine springs extend along the neighbouring coast of Arabia. 
 Kharrack, which is now the principal watering place on the north of 
 the Gulph, and the island, where the pilots for the Bussorah river are 
 stationed, is perhaps good for few other purposes. The Sheik indeed, 
 though enjoying profound peace, presented memorials to the Sheik of 
 Bmhire, representing that his troops and himself were in a state of 
 starvation. Among the duties entrusted by the Government of Shiraz 
 to the Nasakchee Bashee, he was instructed to proceed to Kharrack, to 
 inspect the fortifications, and to report on their capability of defence. 
 
 Pearl-Fishery. — There is. perhaps, no place in the world where those 
 things which are esteemed riches among men, abound more than in 
 the Persian gulph. Its bottom is studded with pearls, and its coasts 
 with mines of precious ore. The island of Bahrein, on the Arabian 
 shore, has been considered the most productive bank of the peari 
 
•:••?:.:■! 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 53 
 
 oysters : but the island of Kharrack now shares the reputation. The 
 fishery extends along the whole of the Arabian coast, and to a large 
 proportion of the Persian side of the gulph. Verdistan, Nabon, and 
 Busheab, on that side, are more particularly mentioned ; but indeed it 
 is a general rule, that wherever in the gulph there is a shoal, there is also 
 the pearl oyster. 
 
 The fishery, though still in itself as prolific as ever, is not perhaps 
 carried on with all the activity of former years ; since it declined in 
 consequence by the transfer of the English market to the banks of the 
 coast of Ceylon. But the. Persian pearl is never without a demand; 
 though little of the produce of the. fishery comes direct into Persia. 
 The trade has now almost entirely centred at Muscat. From Muscat 
 the greater part of the pearls are exported to Surat; and, as the agents 
 of the Indian merchants are constantly on the spot, and as the fishers 
 prefer the certain sale of their merchandize there to a higher but less 
 regular price in any other market, the pearls may often be bought at a 
 less price in India, than to an individual they would have been sold in 
 Arabia. There are two kinds ; the yellow pearl, which is sent to the 
 Mahratta market ; and the white pearl, which is circulated through 
 Bussorah and Bagdad into Asia Minor, and thence into the heart of 
 Europe ; though, indeed, a large proportion of the whole is arrested in 
 its progress at Constantinople to deck the Sultanas of the Seraglio. The 
 pearl of Ceylon peels oft'; that of the Gulph is as firm as the rock upon 
 which it grows; and, though it loses in colour and water 1 per cent an- 
 nually for fifty years, yet it still loses less than that of Ceylon. It ceases 
 after fifty years to lose any thing. 
 
 About twenty years ago the fishery was farmed out by the different 
 chiefs along the coast : thus the Sheiks of Bahrein and of El 
 Katif, having assumed a certain portion of the Pearl Bank, obliged 
 every speculator to pay them a certain sum for the right of fishing. At 
 present, however, the trade which still employs a considerable number of 
 boats is carried on entirely by individuals. There are two modes of spe- 
 culation: the first, by which the adventurer charters a boat by the month 
 
54 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 or by the season ; in this boat he sends his agent to superintend the 
 whole, with a crew of about fifteen men, including generally five or 
 six divers. The divers commence their work at sun-rise and finish at 
 sun-set. The oysters, that have been brought up, are successively con- 
 fided to the superintendant , and when the business of the day is done, 
 they are opened on a piece of white linen : the agent of course keeping 
 a very active inspection over every shell. The man who, on opening an 
 oyster, finds a valuable pearl, immediately puts it into his mouth, by 
 which they fancy that it gains a finer water ; and, at the end of the 
 fishery, he is entitled to a present. The whole speculation costs about 
 one hundred and fifty piastres a month ; the divers getting ten piastres ; 
 and the rest of the crew in proportion. The second and the safest mode 
 of adventure is by an agreement between two parties, where one defrays 
 all the expences of the boat and provisions, &c. and the other conducts 
 the labours of the fishery. The pearl obtained undergoes a valuation, 
 according to which it is equally divided : but the speculator is further 
 entitled by the terms of the partnership to purchase the other half of 
 the pearl at ten per cent, lower than the market price. 
 
 The divers seldom live to a great age. Their bodies break out in 
 sores, and their eyes become very weak and blood-shot. They can re- 
 main under water five minutes ; and their dives succeed one another 
 very rapidly, as by delay the state of their bodies would soon prevent 
 the renewal of the exertion. They oil the orifice of the ears, and put a 
 horn over their nose. In general life they are restricted to a certain regi- 
 men ; and to food composed of dates and other light ingredients. 
 They can dive from ten to fifteen fathoms, and sometimes even more ; 
 and their prices increase according to the depth. The largest pearl are 
 generally found in the deepest water, as the success on the bank of 
 Kharrack, which lies very low, has demonstrated. From such depths, 
 and on this bank, the most valuable pearls have been brought up ; the 
 largest indeed which Sir Harford Jones ever saw, was one that had 
 been fished up at Kharrack in nineteen fathoms water. 
 
 It has been often contested, whether the pearl in the live oyster is as 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 55 
 
 hard as it appears in the market ; or whether it acquires its consistence 
 by exposure. I was assured by a gentleman (who had been encamped 
 at Congoon close to the bank ; and who had often bought the oysters 
 from the boys, as they came out of the water,) that he had opened the 
 shell immediately, find when the fish was still alive, had found the pearl 
 already hard and formed. He had frequently also cut the pearl in two, 
 and ascertained it to be equally hard throughout, in layers like the coats 
 of an onion. But Sir Harford Jones, who has had much knowledge 
 of the fishery, informs me, that it is easy by pressing the pearl between 
 the fingers, when first taken out of the shell, to feel that it has not yet 
 attained its ultimate consistency. A very short exposure, however, to 
 the air gives the hardness. The two opinions are easily reconcileable by 
 supposing, either a misconception in language of the relative term hard, 
 (by which one authority may mean every thing in the oyster which is 
 not gelatinous, while the other would confine it more strictly to the full 
 and perfect consistency of the pearl ;) or by admitting that there may 
 be an original difference in the character of the two species, the yellow 
 and the white pearl ; while the identity of the specimen, on which either 
 observation has been formed, has not been noted. 
 
 The fish itself is fine eating ; nor, indeed in this respect is there any 
 difference between the common and the pearl oyster. The seed pearls, 
 which are very indifferent, are arranged round the lips of the oyster, as 
 if they were inlaid by the hand of an artist. The large pearl 
 is nearly in the centre of the shell, and in the middle of the fish. 
 
 In Persia the pearl is employed for less noble ornaments than in 
 Europe : there it is principally reserved to adorn the kaleoons or water 
 pipes, the tassels for bridles, some trinkets, the inlaying of looking 
 glasses and toys, for which indeed the inferior kinds are used ; or, when 
 devoted more immediately to their persons, it is generally strung as 
 beads to twist about in the hand, or as a rosary for prayer. 
 
 The fishermen always augur a good season of the pearl, when there 
 have been plentiful rains; and so accurately has experience taught 
 them, that when corn is very cheap they increase their demands for 
 
56 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 fishing. The connexion is so well ascertained, (at least so fully cre- 
 dited, not by them only, but by the merchants,) that the prices paid 
 to the fishermen are, in fact, always raised, when there have been 
 great rains. 
 
 II. Bushire (or more properly Abuschahr, for the former is but the 
 corruption of an English sailor) is now the principal Port of Persia. It 
 stands in lat. 28°. 59- in long. 50°. 43. E. of Greenwich. It is situated 
 on the extremity of a peninsula, which is formed by the sea on one side, 
 and on the other by an inlet terminating in extensive swamps. At the 
 narrowest part of this neck of land the seas, in the equinoctial spring 
 tides, have sometimes met and rendered it an island ; but this has hap- 
 pened once only during the ten years which preceded our visit, and the 
 effect then continued but two or three days ; and so visible is the present 
 encroachment of the land upon the inlet, that the recurrence of such an 
 overflow will soon be entirely impossible. Every appearance, indeed, 
 proves, that the whole of the peninsula has been thus gained, from the 
 sea. The extreme flatness of the general surface, the soil itself, the 
 water, and the relative position of the whole peninsula to the moun- 
 tains which rise abruptly from its inland extremities, suggest the suppo- 
 sition of such an accumulation. 
 
 On the southern bank of the inlet is a long range of rocks, which, 
 though now two or three miles distant, may at one time have been 
 washed by the sea. In digging for water, the people of the peninsula 
 have sunk wells to the depth of thirty fathoms ; and before they could 
 reach the spring they have been obliged to perforate three layers of a 
 soft stone composed of sand and shells. Generally of the whole soil, 
 sand is the principal ingredient. 
 
 The town itself of Bushire occupies the very point of the peninsula, 
 and forms a triangle, of which the base on the land side is alone forti- 
 fied. At unequal distances along the walls, there are twelve towers, 
 two of which form the town-gate ; they are all chequered at the top by 
 holes, through which the inhabitants may point their musketry, and 
 those at the gates have a variety of such contrivances. There is at the 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 57 
 
 the door a large brass Portuguese gun, a sixty-eight pounder, on a very 
 uncertain carriage ; besides two or three in a much ruder state. It is 
 said that on some invasion when the place was beset, this gun was fired, 
 but the concussion was so great and unexpected, that it blew open the 
 gates, shook down fragments of the towers, and gave the enemy an easy 
 entrance. The materials of the town (a soft sandy stone, incrustated 
 with shells) are drawn from the ruins of Reshire, in its neighbour- 
 hood. Most of the adjacent villages are built of the same stone, the 
 only species indeed found in the peninsula, and which was already thus 
 prepared for their use in the remains of Reshire. But such materials are 
 continually decomposing ; and the dust which falls from them adds to 
 the already sandy ground-work of their streets, and, when set in motion 
 by the wind or by a passing caravan, creates an impenetrable cloud. 
 The streets are from six to eight feet wide, and display on each side 
 nothing but inhospitable walls. A great man's dwelling (there are nine 
 in Bushire) is distinguished by a wind chimney. This is a square turret 
 on the sides of which are perpendicular apertures, and in the interior of 
 which are crossed divisions, which form different currents of air, and 
 communicate some comfort to the heated apartments of the house. But 
 the comfort is not wholly without danger ; as in an earthquake some 
 years ago the turrets were thrown down to the great damage of the sur- 
 rounding buildings. 
 
 There are supposed to be in the town four hundred houses, besides 
 several alleys of date-tree-huts on entering the gates, which may add an 
 equal number to the whole. The number of inhabitants is dispropor- 
 tionably large, but it is calculated that there are ten thousand persons in 
 the place. There are four mosques of the Sheyahs, and three of the 
 Sunnis ; and there are two Hummwns and two Caravanserais; but 
 there is no public building in Bushire which deserves any more par- 
 ticular description. The old English factory is a large straggling 
 building near the sea side ; the left wing is breaking down. The Bazars 
 are exactly those of a provincial town in Turkey. The shop is a little 
 platform, raised about two feet above the foot-path ; where the Vender. 
 
58 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 just reserving the little space upon which he squats, displays his wares. 
 The shops, as in Turkey, are opened in the morning and shut at night, 
 when the trader returns to his dwelling ; for the shop is but the recep- 
 tacle for his goods. 
 
 On the 2d Nov. a large fleet of boats came into Bushire from the 
 coast, laden with coarse linen tor turbans, earthen pots, mats, &c. for 
 which they carry away dates. These boats keep together for fear of 
 the Joasmee pirates. 
 
 To the east of the town there is a small elevation, which happily 
 destroys the equalities of the buildings, and renders it no uninteresting 
 subject for a sketch, when enlivened by its concomitants, water and 
 shipping. Whatever may have been the former state of the immediate 
 neighbourhood, it is certain that there are now no longer to be found the 
 gardens and plantations which Nearchus described, or even those 
 which Captain Simmons delineated. Had Nearchus again described 
 Bushire and its territory in this day, he would have said, that a 
 few cotton bushes, here and there date trees, now and then a Konar 
 tree, with water melons, berinjauts, and cucumbers, are the only verdant 
 objects which, in any measure, alleviate the glare of its sandy plain. 
 
 1 took a sketch of Bushire from a rising spot near a well on a public 
 road.* A troop of young camel-drivers, who were going merrily along, 
 soon discovered me ; and long continued to vociferate, with many other 
 names and jokes, " Frangui, Frangui" the common appellation in the 
 East of every European. 
 
 The new factory is about one mile seven-eights from the town. The 
 Resident's guard is composed of seapoys, who, by the regulations, should 
 be changed every five years, but they are permitted to remain till they 
 become so lax in discipline as scarcely to deserve the name of soldiers. 
 The guard is mustered at sun-set, when they mostly appear in their shirts 
 and night-caps and the sentries walk about without their muskets. 
 
 In a few days after our landing we rode to the ruins of Beshire. The 
 
 * See Plate VI. 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 59 
 
 more immediate remains occupy an inconsiderable part of the site of 
 the old city, and indeed consist rather of the fortress than of the general 
 mass of buildings. The place is surrounded by villages built of the 
 materials, and (as other fragments about them still attest) upon the site 
 also of the original town. One of these villages is called Imaum Zade, 
 and is exempt from taxes, because its inhabitants claim all to be de- 
 scended from Mahomed. 
 
 The fortress itself was built by the Portuguese, though the people 
 around are jealous of the acknowledgment, and substitute as its founder 
 their own Shah Abbas. On a hasty calculation it must have been a 
 square of two hundred yards. The reservoirs for water are still to be 
 seen ; but a lad, whom we met in the enclosure, told us that he and his 
 companions were at work in destroying the Hummums. Twenty-five 
 years ago the Envoy saw it in many parts entire, with some of the 
 houses still standing. It is now a heap of dirt and rubbish. The line 
 of the fort, indeed, is traced by the ditch, which is excavated from the 
 rock ; and tbie gateways also are discoverable, and some little masonry 
 remains tu fiiark their strength. There are some flat and oblong stones 
 on the outside of the fort, which we conceived to have been placed over 
 Portuguese tombs. There are, however, some curious characters upon 
 them, which Sir Harford Jones, who recollects them when they were 
 more legible, conceives to be between the old Citfick and the Nekshi. 
 
 In another excursion we advanced to Halila, about nine miles from 
 the town, and on the south of the peninsula of Bushire. Here, indeed, 
 there is a projection of the land, where it is still possible for very high 
 tides to rise above the surface. The ground is very much broken into 
 caverns and deep chasms. Halila is a small village ; it has a trifling 
 square fort, with a tower at each angle, but without any guns. Cotton 
 is sown more systematically in the territory immediately adjacent to 
 Halila than in that of Bushire. Here and there over the plain are 
 some little spots sacred to the dead, and defended by small works 
 of stones. 
 
 The Sapphire lay about four miles off the shore, in four feet and 
 
 i 2 
 
60 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 a half low water, and in quarter less five at high. The ground was 
 marl and very thick mud, so tenacious, that it was necessary every 
 three or four days to move the anchor. The refraction was so great, 
 that, for their daily observations at the sun's meridian, they were obliged 
 to allow for it more than what is noted in the nautical tables. In my 
 visit on board, I took the following bearings from the quarter-deck. 
 Town N. 55 E. Concorde Lodge E. Halila Peak S. ?0 E. Asses Ears 
 and Beshire Point S. 35 E. Cape Bang (the extremity of the land) 
 N. 11 E. 
 
 The water of Bushire has a cathartic quality of most immediate 
 effect in a stranger's habit, but after the experience of about a month 
 it ceases to have so violent a power. 
 
 The meteorological journal which I kept may not be useless, and I 
 give therefore the month of November in the Appendix. On the night 
 of the 10th of that month, a most violent storm blew from the north- 
 west. The whole atmosphere was in a blaze of fire ; the claps of thun- 
 der succeeded one another with a rapidity, which rendered them scarcely 
 separable, and the rain poured down in torrents ; but when all was 
 over, the air possessed a freshness which was most grateful. The storms 
 from the N. W. are very frequent in the winter ; and though in no part 
 of the world do I recollect to have seen one so tremendous as this, I 
 am told that it was not to be compared with some which are experienced 
 at Bushire. 
 
 In three or four days the mountains which bore N. N. E. from our 
 dwelling were already covered with snow. This was reckoned early in 
 the season. The people soon begun to put on their warmer clothing. 
 Coughs and colds became very prevalent, particularly among the Indian 
 servants, who were clad more lightly than either the Europeans or the 
 natives. 
 
 About the 20th of November the people commence ploughing ; the 
 soil is so light that it is turned up with very little labour ; the plough, 
 therefore, is dragged mostly by one ox only, and not unfrequently even 
 by an ass. All their agricultural implements are of the rudest con- 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 61 
 
 struction. At this period, larks fly about in large numbers, and feed 
 upon the seed just sowing. There are also great flocks of pigeons, 
 cormorants, curlews, and hoobaras (bustards). On the 25th we saw a 
 white swallow flitting about the house. Sparrows were not so numerous 
 as in the beginning of the month. Flies appeared with a south wind ; 
 but were scarce when it blew from the northward. The fruits in season 
 were melons, dates, pomegranates, apples, pears, and sweet limes ; and 
 a small and very pleasant orange was just coming in. Our vegetables 
 were spin age, bcndes, and onions, and cabbages and turnips from Bua- 
 sora. Of our meat, the finest was mutton, veal was coarse, but the beef 
 pretty good, and the fowls were admirable. There were no turkies or 
 geese indeed ; nor ducks, except some that we occasionally got from 
 Bussora. 
 
 The climate of Bushire is healthy, if we might judge from the two 
 or three examples of strong and active old age which came within our, 
 notice: one, my own Persian master, Mollah Hassan; another in 
 the Resident's family, who has trimmed pipes for two-thirds of a cen- 
 tury, and who was a young man with mustachios and a sprouting 
 beard, when Nadir Shah was at Shiraz. Another is an old fellow of 
 the name of Ayecal, which, from the keenness of his love of sporting, 
 has been familiarized by the English into Jackall. 
 The better sort of women are scarcely ever seen, and when they are, 
 their faces are so completely covered that no feature can be distin- 
 guished. The poorer women, indeed, are not so confined, for they go 
 in troops to draw water for the place. I have seen the elder ones sitting 
 and chatting at the well, and spinning the coarse cotton of the country, 
 while the young girls filled the skin which contains the water, and which 
 they all carry on their backs into the town. They do not wear shoes ; 
 their dress consists of a very ample shirt, a pair of loose trowsers, and 
 the veil which goes over all. Their appearance is most doleful ; though 
 I have still noticed a pretty face through all the filth of their attire. The 
 colour of their clothes is originally brown, but when they become too 
 dirty to be worn under that hue, they are sent to the dyer, who is sup- 
 
62 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 posed to clean them by superinducing a dark-blue or black tint. In 
 almost every situation they might be considered as the attendants on a 
 burial ; but in a real case of death there are professional mourners, who 
 are hired to see proper respect paid to the deceased, by keeping up the 
 cries of etiquette to his memory. 
 
 Among the superstitions in Persia, that which depends on the crowing 
 of a cock, is not the least remarkable. If the cock crows at a proper 
 hour, they esteem it a good omen ; if at an improper season, they kill 
 him. I am told that the favourable hours are at nine, both in the morn- 
 ing and in the evening, at noon and at midnight. 
 
 But the lion, in the popular belief of Persia, has a discernment much 
 more important to the interests of mankind. A fellow told me with 
 the gravest face, that a lion of their own country would never hurt a 
 Sheyah, (the sect of the Mahomedan religion which follows Ali, and 
 which is established in Persia,) but would always devour a Surmi, (who 
 recognises before Ali the three first caliphs.) On meeting a lion, you 
 have only therefore to say, " Ya AH," and the beast will walk by you 
 with great respect ; but should you either from zeal or the forgetfulness 
 of terror, exclaim " Ya Omar / Oh Omar \" he will spring upon you 
 instantly. 
 
 III. Animals of the Dashtistan. About twenty-five years, ago, m 
 the time of Sheik Nasr, who possessed both Bushire and the island of 
 Bahrein, and who consequently was enabled to improve the native 
 breed of Persia, by bringing over the Nedj stallion, the Dashtistan 
 became celebrated for a horse of strength and bottom. But the original 
 breed of Persia, that which is now restored, is a tall, lank, ill-formed, 
 and generally vicious animal ; useful indeed for hard work, but un- 
 pleasant to ride compared with the elegant action and docility of the 
 Arab. There is another race of the Turcoman breed, (such as are 
 seen at Smyrna, and through all Asia Minor), a short, thick, round- 
 necked, and strong-leg^ horse, short quartered, and inclined behind. 
 There is also a fine breed produced by the Turcoman mare and the 
 Nedj stallion. At two different times, large lots of horses were offered 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 63 
 
 to us for sale : the first, by the people of the Shiraz officer, who asked 
 immense prices, and when refused, departed in apparent ill-humour, but 
 o-enerally returned and took the reduced sum which was offered. In 
 this way also we purchased a lot of forty horses, principally of the 
 Turcoman breed, which had been destined for the Indian market, and 
 for which an average price of three hundred and twenty piastres for each 
 horse had been asked at Bushire, but which at the end of the month 
 were sold to us for two hundred and fifty. The distinct and charac- 
 teristic value of the horses of the country, was exemplified in a present 
 of two, which the Envoy received from the Sheik of Bushire. One was 
 a beautiful Arab colt, of the sweetest temper I ever knew in a horse, 
 friskino- about like a lamb, and yet so docile, that though now for the 
 first time mounted, he seemed to have been long used to the bit, a sure 
 proof in the estimation of the country of the excellence of his breed. 
 The other was a Persian colt of the most stubborn and vicious nature ; 
 to the astonishment and admiration however of the Persians, the Envoy's 
 Yorkshire groom by mere dint of whip and spur, subdued the creature 
 and rendered him fit to ride : a triumph which established the groom's 
 reputation readily, among a people peculiarly alive to the superiority of 
 their own horsemanship. A horse more than ordinarily vicious was 
 tamed in a singular manner by the people of the country. He was 
 turned out loose (muzzled indeed in his mouth, where his ferociousness 
 was most formidable) to await in an enclosure the attack of two horses, 
 whose mouths and legs at full liberty were immediately directed against 
 him. The success was as singular as the experiment ; and the violence 
 of the discipline which he endured, subdued the nature of the beast, and 
 rendered him the quietest of his kind. The horses are fastened in the 
 stables by their fore legs, and pinioned by a rope from the hind leg to 
 stakes at about six feet distant behind, so that although the animals are 
 well inclined to quarrel, and are only four or five feet asunder, they can 
 scarcely in this position succeed in hurting each other : frequently how- 
 ever they do get loose, and then most furious battles ensue. I have 
 
64 
 
 RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 often admired the courage and dexterity with which the Persian 
 Jelowdars or grooms throw themselves into the thickest engagement of 
 angry horses ; and, in defiance of the kicks and bites around them, con- 
 trive to separate them. 
 
 The Resident's stud consists of about twenty horses, mules, and 
 asses ; eight of the horses belong to the East India Company, and are 
 principally employed in carrying choppers or couriers to Shiraz. These 
 are obliged however to be renewed very frequently, because one such 
 journey generally destroys the animal that performs it ; so difficult are 
 the passes of the mountains, and so unmerciful arc the riders. 
 
 They have in Persia a very large and ferocious dog, called the kqfla 
 dog, from his being the watchful and faithful companion of the kqfla or 
 caravan. Each muleteer has his dog, and so correct is the animal's 
 knowledge of the mules that belong to his master, that he will discover 
 those that have strayed, and will bring them back to their associates ; 
 and on the other hand, when at night the whole caravan stops, and the 
 mules are parcelled in square lots, the guardian dog will permit no 
 strange mule to join the party under his charge, or to encroach upon 
 their ground. His strength and his ferocity are equal to his intelli- 
 gence and watchfulness. 
 
 We chased one day a large white fox. They prey about the open 
 country round Bushire in great numbers, for the natives do not destroy 
 them with all the zeal of Englishmen. The wild animals of the Dash- 
 tistan are the wolf, the hysena, the fox, the porcupine, the mangousti, 
 the antelope, the wild boar, the jerboa, and sometimes the wild goat. 
 The mountains of the Dashtistan have also the lion, and he has been 
 known to descend into the plain. On the 12th December, Captain 
 Davis, of the Sapphire, shot two cormorants out of a flock that were 
 squatted on a tree. Partridges also have been seen to settle in the same 
 situation. The hawks, which are used in hunting, are the chcrk, the 
 halban, and the shahein. 
 
 We set off on the 29th of November, before sun-rise, to hunt with 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 65 
 
 hawks. The freshness, or rather the coldness of the morning, was quite 
 revivifying. We were accompanied by an old and keen sportsman, 
 who had long been renowned in the plains of Bushiie for his expertncss 
 in training a hawk, and his perseverance in hunting the hoobara or 
 bustard. The old ffeis, the name by which he was known, was one of 
 the most picturesque figures on horseback that I ever saw. He was 
 rather tall, with a neck very long, and a beard very grey. His body, 
 either through age or the long use of a favourite position on horseback, 
 inclined forwards till it made an angle of 45° with his thighs, which 
 run nearly parallel to the horse's back ; and his beard projected so much 
 from his lank neck, that it completed the amusement of the profile. On 
 his right wrist, which was covered by large gloves, his hawk wa5 
 perched. The bird is always kept hood-winked, tiU the game be near. 
 On our way we were joined by Hassan Khan, the Governor of 
 Dastiy who also carried a hawk, and who was attended by about 
 fifteen men with spears, the kaleo6ns> or water pipes, &c. We proceeded 
 to Halila, where we commenced our hunt. A hoobara started almost 
 under the foot of my horse ; as the bird flew, a hawk was unhooded 
 that he might mark the direction, and was loosed only when it settled. 
 But the sport was unsuccessful in two or three attempts ; in fact, when 
 the hawk has had one flight, and has missed his prey, he should be fed 
 with the blood of a pigeon, and then hood-winked, and not permitted 
 to fly again in that day's sport. As soon as the hawk has taken his 
 flight, the sportsmen remain quiet till they can see that their bird has 
 seized his prey, when they ride up and disengage them. 
 
 The Jerboa. On the 1st Dec. we caught some jerboas ; and I had 
 an opportunity of delineating and observing with some nicety all their 
 different properties. The description of this animal has been given so 
 minutely by Sonnini, and, with the controversy on the subject, has 
 occupied indeed so very long a chapter of one of his volumes, that it 
 would be superfluous to go over again the same tedious ground. As 
 there are, however, some little exceptions in the jerboa which I saw at 
 Bushire, I shall endeavour to point them out. In the first place, that 
 
 K 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 
 
 gradation from the bird to the quadruped, which Sonnini traced in 
 the hopping motion of the jerboa, did not strike me with the same degree 
 of conviction. When unpursued the animal certainly hops, though this 
 admission does not imply that he cannot walk without hopping. But 
 when he is escaping from any alarm, he may almost be said to lay him- 
 self flat on the surface of the ground from the immense tension of his 
 hind legs, and literally to run ventre a terre. Yet as every observer will 
 feel that there are shades by which the works of creation gradually 
 resolve into each other, and which, by a slow operation, connect the 
 zoophyte with the animated world, and the bird with the quadruped, 
 the jerboa may still serve as one of the first and most perceptible grada- 
 tions between two kingdoms of nature ; but kangaroos, a larger and 
 nobler specimen, would illustrate, the connection as correctly. 
 
 On the specific description of the. animal I agree with Sonnini's 
 account of the Egyptian jerboas, except that, in two which I examined, 
 I could not find the spur or the small rudiment of a fourth toe on the 
 heel of the hinder foot ; on the existence of which depends essentially 
 the resemblance which he has discovered between the jerboa and the 
 alagtaga of Tartary. But as the jerboa of Hasselquist, of Bruce, 
 and of Sonnini all seem to differ from each other, and from those 
 which I examined, in some minute circumstance, it is reasonable to 
 conclude, less that there is any incorrectness in the descriptions, than 
 that there is an essential variety in the animals. The jerboas in the 
 deserts before us at Bushire, do not live in troops, as those of Egypt, ac- 
 cording to Sonnini ; each has his hole to which he retires with the 
 utmost precipitation ; nor is it possible to take him by surprise in the 
 day, as I learn from Sir Harford Jones, who has had ample oppor- 
 tunities of examining the history of the jerboas ; and therefore the cir- 
 cumstance, which Bruce mentions, of his Arabs having knocked 
 them down with sticks, extends probably to no general inference. Nor 
 can I think that Sonnini is correct in supposing that the animal is 
 fond of light. Those which I kept in a cage remained huddled together 
 under some cotton during the day, but in the night made such 
 
RESIDENCE OF THE MISSION AT BUSHIRE. 6? 
 
 a scratching, that I was obliged to send them out of the room. Besides, 
 one of the most common methods of catching them is by the glare of a 
 lanthorn, which seems to deprive them of the power of moving, 
 and subjects them quietly to the hand of the man who bears the light. 
 There is another and an easy way of catching them, by pouring water 
 down one of the apertures of their retreat ; they immediately jump out. 
 "We hunted several with spaniels, but, although surrounded on all sides, 
 they escaped with the greatest facility : when very closely pressed, they 
 have a most dextrous method of springing to an amazing height over 
 the heads of their pursuers ; and, making two or three somersets in the 
 air, they come down again in all safety on their hinder legs, many yards 
 from the spot of their ascent. In this leap they probably use their 
 diminutive paws. Even a greyhound stands no chance with them ; for 
 as soon as he comes near, they take to the somersets, and the dog is 
 completely thrown out. Their flesh is reckoned very fine, as the 
 people here who eat them assure me. As the animal is very sensible of 
 cold, and formed so delicately and apparently so little prepared to 
 resist frosts and snows, I cannot think, though Sonnini seems to imply 
 it, that it is found in very northern climates. Rats and hares indeed 
 are found in the coldest as well as in the warmest parts of the world ; 
 but nature has provided them with a clothing more appropriate to the 
 change. 
 
 c 2 
 

 CHAP. V. 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM BUSHIRE ARRANGEMENTS OF THE CAMP- 
 MEETING WITH MAHOMED NEBEE KHANI ENTERTAINMENT — 
 THE ISTAKBALL — DAULAKEE — MINERAL STREAMS — VEGETATION 
 —PASSAGE OFTHECOTUL — PLAIN OF KHISHT — THE GOVERNOR- 
 CARAVANSERAI THE MOUNTAIN ROBBERS KAMAURIDGE 
 
 KAUZERON: HONORS PAID TO THE ENVOY — RUINS OF SHAPOUR: 
 GENERAL VIEW; ACROPOLIS; SCULPTURES; ROMAN FIGURES; 
 THEATRE; TRADITIONS — PASSES OF THE MOUNTAINS — FIRMAN 
 FROM THE KING — APPROACH TO SHIRAZ — ISTAKBALLS — PRE- 
 SENT FROM THE PRINCE. 
 
 X HE preparations for our departure, which had been suspended by 
 different events, were now resumed with much alacrity. I felt that the 
 cold, which we should soon encounter, might possibly kill my Indian 
 servant, and I accordingly sent him back to Bombay. The Ferosh 
 Bashee, or chief tent-pitcher, an officer of much utility in the progress 
 of our journey, now brought with him to our camp a large number of 
 adherents in subordinate capacities, who on their entrance requested the 
 Envoy's permission to say their prayers in the manner and time ap- 
 pointed by their religion. The next morning I was roused by a noise, 
 which I at last discovered to be compounded of the trumpet of the troop 
 
171.1/ ■.'/' D.1.K1K.J1.1 
 
 *£• ./.„„„,,.„..„/ •'.>" 
 ..il."" - .,..., -. .„»*> 
 
 
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 %., WY -'<; 
 
 
 I 
 
 \Aiyabad 
 
 ..,,.7,/,1/w./ \ \>>^ 
 
 
 
 W ( W/.frft,i,™/ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ')'•,-,. 
 
 7* O T r TE 
 
 of 
 
 £frS MAJESTY'S MISSION, 
 
 under Sir Harford .Tones. Bar 1 . 
 Through PERSIA, in 1809. 
 
 3y James Sutherland.. 
 Captain on the Zoniboy SstaiUfhmcnt- 
 
 SpJis 
 
 ■""■, J mk ' fir 11 
 
Blank inserted to ensure correct page position 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 69 
 
 blowing the reveille, and the voice of a Persian priest calling the faithful 
 to prayers : lungs originally strong had been so disciplined and exer- 
 cised for the purpose, that the voice was more potent than the 
 trumpet. 
 
 Our Mehmandar, Mahomed Zeky Khan, arrived on the 10th; we 
 went out to meet him, attended by the body guard in their best array, 
 and accompanied by a host of Persians. As the preparations for our 
 journey were now completed, the 17th Dec. 1808 was fixed for our de- 
 parture. On the 16th the Ternate, Lieut. Sealy, sailed for Bombay 
 with the Envoy's dispatches to the Indian government ; and on the next 
 day the Sapphire, which was appointed to convey the dispatches to 
 England, proceeded to Kharrack to take in water for the voyage. 
 
 All our arrangements were closed ; and on the same morning, at a 
 quarter past eleven o'clock, the Envoy mounted his horse to proceed 
 from Bushire. In order to excite in the people a favourable expectation 
 of the result of the mission, he had previously desired the astrologers to 
 mention the time which they might deem lucky for his departure ; and 
 the hour accordingly in which we begun our journey was pronounced, by 
 their authority, to be particularly fortunate. Sir Harford Jones's 
 suite consisted of Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Bruce, Captain Suther- 
 land, Cornet Willock, Dr. Jukes, and myself. He had two Swiss 
 servants and an English groom, an English and a Portuguese tailor, 
 about half a dozen Indians, and a very numerous assortment of 
 Persians. 
 
 The Sapphire saluted us as we set out ; shortly after we met the Meh- 
 mandar and his cortege, and after some little exchange of civilities we 
 all went on together. The order of the cavalcade was as follows : — The 
 led horses, ten in number, each conducted by a well-clad jelowdar or 
 groom ; then the chief of the jelowdars with his staff of office ; then 
 the arz-beg or lord of requests ; after him were six chatters or running 
 footmen, who immediately preceded the Envoy. The Envoy himself 
 was mounted on a choice Arab horse; at his right stirrup walked a 
 picked tall chatter, the chief of his class. Then followed the gentlemen of 
 
70 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 the mission, amongst whom were disposed some moonshees. To the right 
 and left were the pipe-trimmers, who carried all the smoking apparatus 
 in*boxes fashioned for the purpose.* Behind the gentlemen and the 
 moonshees came a great crowd of Persians on horseback ; and, to close 
 the whole, the body guard came along in goodly rows, and made an ad- 
 mirable finish to the groupe. 
 
 The baggage all loaded on mules preceded us regularly on our march, 
 so that when we arrived at the end of our stage we always found our 
 tents pitched. 
 
 The arrangements of our camp were as follows : — There were two 
 state tents, one for dinner, the other for receiving company. The latter, 
 with the Envoy's private tent, were enclosed within walls. Around 
 these were the tents of the gentlemen of the mission, each person having 
 his own. There was also one appropriated to cooking, and many others 
 of a smaller size for the servants, and the guard of cavalry. 
 
 After our dinner was over, which was generally an hour or two after 
 sun-set, the dinner tent was taken down, loaded on the mules, and sent 
 onwards to the next stage in readiness to receive us. About day-break 
 in the morning, the camp begun to break up ; and before our breakfast 
 was over, for which one tent was left, all the rest of the ground was 
 cleared, and the baggage was far on its road to the next stage. The 
 Persians are so accustomed to this manner of life, that they pitch and 
 unpitch a camp with the most perfect dexterity and order. Much of 
 course depends upon the chief of the Feroshes or tent-pitchers, called 
 the Ferosh-Bashee, who must necessarily be very active. The man who 
 filled this department in our mission was very clever, but probably a 
 great rogue, of which at least he displayed a presumptive proof, as he 
 had lost an ear, the forfeit of some former misdemeanour. The office 
 of Charwardar or Chief Muleteer, is another also that requires much 
 activity and watchfulness, to superintend properly the loading and un- 
 loading of the mules with order and dispatch. 
 
 * See Plate VII. in which they are incidentally introduced. 
 
^V:.:^ 
 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 n 
 
 We marched for about four miles in a direct bearing with Halila 
 Peak, (which bore S. 70. E. from Mr. Bruce's house,) and then came 
 to the swamps, which terminate the extremity of the inlet of the sea, 
 from the port of Bushire. Having paced over those swamps for about 
 two miles more, we took a more easterly direction, and then marched 
 due E. to Alichangee, the village at which we encamped. The distance 
 is called five fursungs, but probably is not more than fourteen miles. 
 The soil over which we passed was sandy, and here and there strata of 
 rock. The weather was hazy, and gave the country a broken and un- 
 connected appearance. 
 
 As we approached our encampment, we were treated with a scene of 
 Persian splendour and etiquette, in the meeting of the Envoy with his 
 old friend and tutor, Mahomed Nebee Khan, the Governor of 
 Bushire. He had been informed that the Envoy intended passing the 
 following day with him, and accordingly prepared for his reception. 
 
 About a mile from our encampment we met him; a very large 
 portion of the military of Bushire had already greeted his arrival. 
 His approach was first announced by a salute from all the matchlock 
 guns of his guards, who were posted in our way to frighten our horses. 
 The Khan then appeared himself, surrounded by an immense host, 
 who, clearing away as soon as they came near our party, gave the two 
 great men free access to one another. They exchanged embraces, and 
 once again mounted their horses. We all returned together, and formed 
 a party so thickly cemented, that the dust of the desert was raised in 
 masses, which quite obscured the air. 
 
 Mahomed Nebee Khan and our Mehmandar escorted the Envoy 
 to his own tent, and after a short visit, departed amid the same crowd 
 and noise. 
 
 On Sunday the 18th, when I had performed divine service in the 
 Envoy's tent, we paid a visit of ceremony to Mahomed Nebee 
 Khan. According to the fashion of the country, we proceeded on 
 horseback, although his tent was within a stone's throw. We were met 
 by one of his officers, and an escort of ten men, who made their 
 
72 
 
 BUSIIIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 obeisance to the Envoy, and preceded his horse, until we arrived at the 
 door, where the Khan himself was waiting. He received us most graci- 
 ously, and after we had pulled off' our boots and shoes, and Sir Har- 
 ford and the Khan had gone through some little polite difficulties 
 about their seats, we finally settled ourselves on chairs prepared for us. 
 The Khans tent Was very neat, and appeared to us a most desirable 
 residence. It had a large exterior covering, and close to the extremity 
 a wall all round ; and in the interior, there was a clean little recess 
 closely covered with carpets, and lined with the finest chintz, the 
 borders of which were adorned with a broad fringe. Our host was a 
 man of great notoriety both in Persia and in India ; his manners were 
 greatly in his favour, and he was dressed more like a noble than any 
 other man whom I had yet seen in the country. His beard presented 
 no plebeian roughness, and the dagger in his girdle glittered with pre- 
 cious stones. When the usual compliments had been severally paid, 
 that silence of solemnity, which generally marks the visits of form, suc- 
 ceeded, till the kakoons, or water pipes, were introduced to our relief. 
 The coffees and sherbets followed, and the whole entertainment con- 
 cluded with a course of sweetmeats, which was brought upon separate 
 trays, each serving two guests. The only unsatisfactory part of the visit 
 was the intended politeness of two lusty attendants, who broke some of 
 the sweetmeats in their suspicious hands, blew the dust off* the fragments 
 with their more suspicious mouths, and then laid them before us. After 
 a washing of hands, (in which we felt the full want of towels), and a 
 parting kaleoon, we took our leave, and left the Envoy to a private con- 
 ference with the Khan. 
 
 The trays, from which we eat, had the appearance of silver, though 
 I understood afterwards that they were plated only. They were neatly 
 carved in flowers and other ornaments. The articles which they con- 
 tained were made of almonds, pistachio nuts, and a paste of sugar ; 
 others were like our alicampane and barley sugar, and all were very nice. 
 The Persians are almost indescribably fond of sweetmeats, which they 
 eat in very great quantities. The abundance indeed of fruits and sher- 
 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 bets presented daily to the Envoy by the Mehmandar, proved the im- 
 mense supply which the taste of the country demanded. The presents 
 were arranged prettily in trays and boxes, and carried in great form on 
 the heads of servants, but they were less acceptable, because for each 
 the conductor required a present in money. By such means the great 
 men in Persia pay their servants, who in general receive no other wages. 
 The person, therefore, to whom such an office as that of Mehmandar is 
 entrusted, is, of course, surrounded by hordes of adherents, who are al- 
 lured by receipts so certain and valuable. 
 
 The new Governor had consulted the astrologers of Bushire to deter- 
 mine the most propitious time for his entrance into the town, which, by 
 their predictions, was at three hours before sun-set on the 19th. In 
 conformity therefore to the decision, he was now delaying his advance 
 till the happier period should arrive. When, on a former occasion, he 
 was departing from Bushire to embark on board the ship, which was to 
 carry him on his mission to Calcutta, he was ordered by these astrolo- 
 gers (as the only means of counteracting the influence of a certain evil 
 star) to go out of his house in a particular aspect: as unfortunately 
 there happened to be no door in that direction, he caused a hole to be 
 made in the wall, and thus made his exit. 
 
 In the evening we dined with Mahomed Nebee Khan. We did 
 not go till the Khan had sent to the Envoy to say, that the entertain- 
 ment was ready for his reception, a custom always observed on such 
 occasions* When we arrived at his tent, the same ceremonies passed 
 as in the morning, except that we sat upon the ground, where the in- 
 flexibility of our knees rendered the position more difficult than can 
 be described. The Khan, who seemed to commiserate the tightness 
 of our pantaloons, begged that we would extend our legs at their full 
 length : fearing, however, to be rude, we chose to be uncomfortable, 
 and to imitate their fashion as faithfully as possible ; and really, with 
 
 * That the same custom prevailed anciently in the East may be inferred from St. 
 Matthew xxii. 2 — 4. St. Luke xiv. 16. 17. 
 
74 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 respect to my own feelings, I thought complaisance was never carried 
 further. The guests besides ourselves, were our Mehmandar and the 
 Persian Secretary. I preserved part of the conversation : in talking of 
 the admirable skill with which the guns of the Nereide were fired in 
 the re-capture of the Sylph, the Mehmandar said to the Secretary, 
 " you ought to have kissed the lips of those guns, whose execution was so 
 u effectual ; and walked around and around them, and in gratitude for 
 " your deliverance, to have put up prayers to Heaven for their preser- 
 " vation and prosperity/' 
 
 After having sat some time kaleoons were brought in, then coffee, 
 then kaleoons, then sweet coffee (the composition already noticed of 
 sugar and rose-water); and then kaleoons again. All this was rapidly 
 performed, when the Khan called for dinner. On the ground before us 
 was spread the sofra, a fine chintz cloth, which perfectly entrenched 
 our legs, and which is used so long unchanged, that the accumulated 
 fragments of former meals collect into a musty paste, and emit no very 
 savory smell ; but the Persians are content, for they say that changing 
 the sqfra brings ill luck. A tray was then placed before each guest ; 
 on these trays were three fine china bowls, which were filled with sher- 
 bets ; two made of sweet liquors, and one of a most exquisite species of 
 lemonade. There were besides, fruits ready cut, plates with elegant 
 little arrangements of sweetmeats and confectionary, and smaller cups 
 of sweet sherbet ; the whole of which were placed most symetrically, 
 and were quite inviting, even by their appearance. In the vases of 
 sherbet were spoons made of the pear tree, with very deep bowls, and 
 worked so delicately, that the long handle just slightly bent when 
 it was carried to the mouth. The pillaus succeeded, three of which were 
 placed before each two guests ; one of plain rice called the chillo, one 
 made of mutton with raisins and almoikls, the other of a fowl, with rich 
 spices and plumbs. To this were added various dishes with rich sauces, 
 and over each a small tincture of sweet sauce. Their cooking, indeed, 
 is mostly composed of sweets. The business of eating was a pleasure 
 to the Persians, but it was misery to us. They comfortably advanced 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 their chins close to the dishes, and commodiously scooped the rice or 
 other victuals into their mouths, with three fingers and the thumb of 
 their right hand ; but in vain did we attempt to approach the dish : 
 our tight-kneed breeches, and all the ligaments and buttons of our 
 dress, forbade us ; and we were forced to manage as well as we could, 
 fragments of meat and rice falling through our fingers all around us. 
 When we were all satisfied, dinner was carried away with the same 
 state in which it was brought: the servant who officiated, dropping 
 himself gracefully on one knee, as he earned away the trays, and pas- 
 sing them expertly over his head with both his hands, extended to the 
 lacquey, who was ready behind to carry them off. We were treated 
 with more kaleoons after dinner, and then departed to our beds. 
 
 On the morning of the 19th, the camp broke up at sunrise. We took 
 a hasty breakfast in the Envoy's tent, but a visit from Mahomed 
 Nebee Khan (which was preceded by a present of two horses and his 
 own sword) kept us on the ground till nine o'clock. The Khan, with 
 all his attendants, accompanied us about two miles. He was preparing 
 to enter Bushire, his new government, with all splendour. From the 
 town to the swamps were erected stages on which bullocks were to be 
 sacrificed, and from which their heads were to be thrown under his 
 horse's feet, as he advanced ; a ceremony indeed appropriated to Princes 
 alone, and to them, only on particular occasions. Yet, however 
 anxious originally for his station, and however splendid in his present 
 appearances, he felt the full dangers of his pre-eminence, and betrayed 
 an absence and uneasiness in his words and actions, which to us 
 evinced all his apprehensions. He was so conscious indeed of the diffi- 
 culties of his situation, that he had transmitted to the King a present of 
 two thousand tomauns. with a memorial, beseeching to be excused from 
 his government. 
 
 We marched at first north-westerly, till we came to the bed of a river, 
 or rather of a mountain- torrent, in which the actual stream of water 
 when we passed, was not above ten feet in breadth, though the channel 
 
 l2 
 
76 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 itself was perhaps thirty 3-ards. It falls into the sea in a due E. and Wi 
 direetion. 
 
 At two o'clock we came to Ahmadieh : at half past two we passed 
 a small fort called Khosh Aub, where a large body of people were 
 waiting our passage.* They were all armed with pikes, matchlocks, 
 swords and shields ; and gave us two vollies as a salute. They then 
 advanced to us, and being announced by the Arz-beg, wished us 
 a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility, 
 " khosh amedeed, you are welcome/' As we proceeded, our party was 
 headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horse- 
 back, all in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited 
 them with his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen 
 of the village performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped 
 to increase the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace 
 with us, until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little 
 army who were waiting our reception at Borazjoon : these also fired 
 their muskets. 
 
 From Khosh Aub to Borazjoon the ground appeared cultivated ; and 
 as we were approaching the latter village, we saw some of the peasants, 
 who, after having finished their toil in the fields were walking home with 
 their ploughs over their shoulders. I think we may fairly reckon at 
 twenty-five miles the distance from Alichangee to Borazjoon : the Per- 
 sians call it nine fursungs. The avenues to Borazjoon are through 
 plantations of date and tamarisk trees : the village is a collection of 
 huts, which surround a fort ; and the fort, like the rest of those which 
 I had seen, was a square, with turrets at each corner, which were cut 
 into small chequers at the top. There are the ruins of many small 
 forts all over the Dashtistan, which were built by some unsuccessful 
 
 * In the Journal this is the first notice of the Istakball, which so frequently recurs in the 
 future progress of the mission, as an honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distin- 
 guished traveller, and to conduct him in his passage. 
 
jBUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 77 
 
 rebel, and which were left to decay as soon as he was quelled. I un- 
 derstand that the population of this district has been decreasing ever 
 since the happy days of Sheik Nasr. Almost the whole of its geo- 
 graphy present places which have names, but no inhabitants ; or if 
 there are any, they are the refuse only of former more nourishing 
 families. 
 
 In our road to-day, we saw immense flights of the toowee, or desert 
 partridge, and some ravens. The Mehmandar and the oldest of our 
 moonshees amused themselves in scouring the plains, and playing at the 
 dangerous game of the girid, in which the old scribe got a severe blow. 
 The Persians ride with great courage, for they drive their horses at 
 their greatest speed over any ground. They of course get frequent 
 falls, by which they are seldom much injured ; for though they gene- 
 rally alight on their heads, they are there saved by their immense 
 sheep-skin caps * 
 
 It was a quarter past eight before we mounted our horses on the 
 morning of the 21st, and ten minutes past twelve when we arrived at 
 Dmdakee, a distance called four fursungs, and which may be computed 
 at about twelve road miles. The site of Dmdakee is marked by a break 
 in the mountains, where the road which leads among them commences. 
 It bore N. 30 E. when we mounted. Our road was much broken by 
 the beds of numerous torrents, which, after the rain and melted snows, 
 fall from the adjacent mountains. We here and there met with small 
 encampments of the Elauts. They appear like the Tarcoma7is, whom I 
 have so frequently seen at Smyrna, and through the whole of Asia 
 Minor. At the distance of two miles we were met by the Istakball, 
 who fired their salute, and frightened the horses as before. This cere- 
 mony was repeated every day, so that a repetition of the description 
 will not be always necessary. They were all arranged on a rising 
 
 * " I have frequently amused myself in feeling their skulls, to ascertain if they are as 
 " soft now as when Herodotus described them ; but I never yet found one that was not 
 
 ," hard and impenetrable," 
 
rs 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 ground, at the foot of which ran a stream of mineral water, of a most 
 sulphureous smell. Further on we crossed other streams of the same 
 duality ; the heat of one of which, as it gushed from under the rocks, 
 was almost scalding. We brought home specimens of the incrustation 
 which the spray of the bubbles left on the surrounding rocks. The bed 
 of the stream was mostly of the colour of sulphur, although there were 
 patches here and there of a copper hue. Still a little further on, on 
 the left of the road, are two springs of naptha. The oil swims on the 
 surface of the water, and the peasantry take it off with a branch of 
 date tree, and collect it into small holes around the spring ready for 
 their immediate use. They daub the camels all over with it in the 
 spring, which preserves their coats, and prevents a disease in the skin, 
 which is common to them. 
 
 The huts in the village of Daidakee, as we rode through it, appeared 
 mostly to be covered on the tops with the entwined leaves of their date 
 trees, while the better houses are built of mud, and terraced. The 
 mosque was the most creditable building that met our eye in the whole 
 place: its interior seemed neatly arranged in arches, and preserved 
 clean with a white stucco. There was a little bath at the extremity of 
 the town. The customary fort (for such are found in most of these 
 villages) was situated in the middle of the huts, at the top of which 
 many an eager Persian was perched. This place, and indeed all we had 
 seen, presented a picture of poverty stronger than words can express. 
 There was nothing but what mere existence required ; nor to our very 
 cursory observation did the most trifling superfluity shew itself. 
 
 The river that runs by DaulaJcee meanders through the plain which 
 we had passed. All the mineral streams, which crossed our road, fall 
 into it, and renders its waters salt and brackish. The soil itself indeed, 
 at the roots of the mountains, is, in some places, saturated with a ni- 
 trous acid, of which, in the neigh bourhood of Daulakec, the people 
 make a pleasant beverage. In one of the recesses of the mountains, 
 however, there is a stream of pure and delicious water. In the evening 
 I walked to the spring, which is embosomed in date trees : it is beauti- 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 79 
 
 fully clear, and rather tepid. Its short course down into the plain is 
 marked by a wood, which more immediately flourishes wider its 
 influence, and follows its progress. In the lower country there is an 
 extensive tract covered with date trees, and forming a mass of verdure 
 on which the eye delights to rest after the constant glare of an arid 
 desert. It is extraordinary how vegetation thrives in this country, 
 wherever there is the least water. It is, indeed, a general rule, that 
 wherever they can irrigate they can produce vegetation ; and indeed 
 with no other moisture than the dews, and the few occasional showers 
 of the winter, the plain of Bushire (which all observers have agreed to 
 call a barren land) produces one hundred for seven. The rude manner 
 of cultivation here is sufficient to display the intrinsic goodness of the 
 soil ; for they just sprinkle with seed the spot marked out for the 
 plough, then make the superficial furrows, and obtain most abundant 
 crops. 
 
 We mounted this morning at eight o'clock, and arrived at our en- 
 campment at ten minutes before one. It is called four fursiuigs, but 
 we compute it at sixteen miles. We soon entered the mountains, and 
 followed the road through them to the Eastward. We came to the 
 river (which in its lower course passes near Daulakec) at half past nine 
 o'clock : we crossed it a second time about a quarter of an hour after, 
 and at ten o'clock passed it for the third and last time, at a ruined 
 bridge, of a structure which had once been neat. Alter hard rains its 
 bed is very extensive, and its current most rapid : so that it entirely im- 
 pedes the passage of travellers and caravans. At the fords where we 
 crossed, it was a very fine stream up to the bellies of our horses. After 
 that, we paced its banks, for the distance perhaps of half a mile, in a 
 8. E. direction. We saw it for the last time winding on a southern 
 course, when we had ascended an elevated peak of the Cotut range. 
 We gained this summit at half past eleven ; the road then continued 
 through the mountains till twelve o'clock, when we came on the plain 
 of KhLsht. At ten minutes before one we reached our encampment. 
 The extreme caprieiouKiitss of the windings of the road, rendered it 
 
80 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 almost an impossible task to ascertain the ultimate and exact direction 
 of our bearing from Daulakee to Khisht. However it was evident, that 
 we had made a great deal of Easting, with a little Northing. The 
 mountains rose around in most fantastical forms, their strata having 
 their highest elevation towards the South, forming a dip of perhaps 
 forty-five degrees. The soil is mostly of a soft crumbling stone, large 
 fragments of which seemed just balancing at the brink of the precipice 
 above, and appearing to require only a touch to impel them into the 
 great chasms below. The passage of the river by our numerous party, 
 and the winding of the horsemen and loaded mules in the mountain- 
 passes, animated the whole of the dreary scenery around into the most 
 romantic pictures. The only verdure which cheered the sameness of 
 the glaring yellow of the mountain, was that of a few wild almond 
 trees. 
 
 Before we ascended to the plains of Khisht, a long string of match- 
 lock men and horsemen (the Istakball) who came out to meet the 
 Envoy, appeared on the brink of the precipice above us. As we 
 ascended they fired a volley, the sound of which returned in repeated 
 echoes through the mountains ; and when we came into the midst of 
 them, the horsemen begun their gambols; moving around us in all 
 directions, stopping their horses, couching their long lances, throwing 
 them, and then again galloping forwards. The footmen with their 
 matchlocks made a charge into the plain, shouting as they advanced, 
 as a representation perhaps of the ardour of their attack in real combat. 
 When we approached our encampment, we were met by the Governor 
 of Khisht himself, Zaul Khan, a man of remarkable appearance, 
 without eyes, and with the fragment of a tongue, the rest of which he 
 had forfeited during the troubles of Persia. He came riding on a mule 
 conducted by a young Persian. But the most extraordinary part of 
 his history is, that, notwithstanding his tongue is cut, he still talks intel- 
 ligibly. Before, indeed, this operation was performed, he had such an 
 impediment in his speech, that he was scarcely able to make himself 
 understood; but the mutilation was fortunate, and his articulation 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 81 
 
 has been improved. This the Envoy, who had known him before the 
 punishment, avers. 
 
 The plain of Khisht seems to form a complete oval, and presented 
 stronger marks of cultivation than any part of the Dashtistan which 
 we had seen. The Konar bushes were thickly sprinkled by the road- 
 side, and apparently all over the plain, besides plantations of date 
 trees. At Konar-a-Tackta (a village four miles and a half from Khisht, 
 and the place where we encamped,) there is a Caravanserai, which has 
 lately been erected by one of the wives of Zaul Khan, and is really a 
 neat and commodious building. An arched gateway introduces the 
 traveller into a square yard, around which are rooms, and behind which 
 are stables. There is also a small suite of rooms over the gateway. In 
 the centre of the court is an elevated platform, the roof of a sub- 
 terraneous chamber called a zeera zemeon, whither travellers retire 
 during the great heats of the summer, and which in those heats 
 is a very refreshing habitation. Behind the building is a tank or 
 reservoir for rain-water, which has newly been added, and is not 
 indeed yet finished. The whole forms an establishment most ac- 
 ceptable to travellers, and worthy of the Persian governments of 
 a better age. 
 
 On the 23d we rose before the sun, and though in a region so much 
 more elevated than the one in which we were on the preceding day, 
 the temperature of the atmosphere seemed the same. The sky was 
 clouded all over, and some predicted rain. One of our moonshces, who 
 was considered an astrologer, told me that, according to his observa- 
 tions, " it would rain, if God pleased." However, the day passed 
 without rain, and the opinion of the astrologer was, at any rate, equally 
 indisputable. 
 
 The trumpet, the signal for departure, sounded at twenty minutes 
 before eight, and w r e went off with the usual clatter and parade. The 
 course of the road bore N. E. : but when we had rode for about 
 four miles its direction was nearly due East. In an hour after our de- 
 ar 
 
82 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 parture we came to the banks of a river, which is the same that, flow- 
 ing by Zeira, falls into the Daidakee river at Deerooga, and which, 
 according to my information, takes its rise in the mountains near 
 Shapour. Immediately on coming on its banks we began to wind 
 through the difficult passes of the mountains, which in various 
 parts are very dangerous. The Arab horses, who had been accustomed 
 to the equal surface of their own sandy plains, trode the rocky 
 sides of the mountains with fearful and uncertain steps, and one or two 
 of the most valuable of the Envoy's stud suffered by severe falls : the 
 Persian horses, on the contrary, scramble over the threatening emi- 
 nences, and confidently walk by the sides of the precipices with an 
 indifference, which gives an equal consciousness of security to their 
 riders. Our Mehmandar, by way of bravado, urged his horse over a 
 rocky heap, which appeared almost as the feat of a madman. 
 
 There were some particular points of view in our progress, that were 
 picturesque and grand in the extreme. The path wound so fantastically 
 along the side of the mountain, that those who were yet at the bottom 
 saw the whole surface intersected by the ranges of our procession ; and 
 the travellers at the upper point appeared so diminutive, that man and 
 brute could scarcely be distinguished from each other. Just before we 
 reached the very highest top of the mountain we came to a station of 
 Hhadars, and to the dwelling of a derveish, which was formed in the 
 crevice of a rock. In parts of our route we saw the Rodo-dendron, 
 one of the strongest symptoms of the change of our climate. We 
 reached our encampment at twenty minutes past eleven, and we found 
 it pitched near a Caravanserai The village of Khaumauridge is situated 
 on a small plain, and is distant about a mile N. 20 W. from the Cara- 
 vanserai. On an eminence over us was a small tower, where a rebel 
 stood a long siege. 
 
 The mountains through which we passed were infested by a race of 
 robbers called the Memmih Siinni. They live in the deepest recesses of 
 their wild valleys, and commit their depredations on the unguarded 
 
^m 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 83 
 
 travellers with an impunity quite characteristic of the state of the 
 country. Although some attempts have occasionally been made to 
 terrify them into submission, by inflicting the severest tortures on the 
 few individuals who have chanced to be caught, yet the example has 
 been lost on the living, and the love of independence and plunder has 
 outweighed the terrors of barbarous punishment and ignominious death. 
 The abrupt formation of their mountain haunts (labyrinths to those who 
 have not long practised them,) favours this community so materially, 
 that instances have been known of their having snatched from the very 
 centre of a caravan, some traveller who promised less resistance thaa 
 his companions, or some well loaded mule, that seemed to announce 
 more booty than others. When Brigadier-General Malcolm went 
 through their mountains on a former mission, the robbers bore off 
 some of his mules which carried part of the rich presents destined fot 
 the King of Persia. So firmly are they now established in their 
 fastnesses, that the neighbouring Khans and Governors of districts have 
 chosen, since the evil itself was inevitable, to take a part in its advan- 
 tages, and, it is said, maintain their own agents amongst the Memmlh 
 Sunni, with whom they have stipulated agreements about the fruits of 
 their plunder. They happened to be less predatory at the time of our 
 passage, and we proceeded through the mountains without the teas* 
 molestation. 
 
 The Caravanserai close to our encampment was a solid, though rathe* 
 ancient structure, and the walls, scribbled over with names or couplets, 
 attested the passage of frequent travellers. We saw a cock blackbird, 
 and Sir Harford fired three times on a thrush, which, notwithstand- 
 ing, kept its ground, until it was taken up in the hand, and indeed 
 permitted itself to be taken up frequently without offering to fly 
 away. 
 
 A road is making at the sole expence of Hajee Mahomed Hassam, 
 a merchant and inhabitant of Bushirc, which will cut through the moun- 
 tains from Kauzeroon to Khaumauridge, and shorten the distance two 
 fursungs. Its direction bore E. from us at Khaumauridge. 
 
 m2 
 
84 
 
 EU SHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 On the 24th our march commenced at eight, and we arrived at 
 Kauzeroon at half past two. We were about one hour pacing the plain 
 of Khaumauridge, and, allowing one mile for the other extremity, (which 
 we had passed on the preceding day) we may fairly calculate its whole 
 length at five miles. Its opening towards Kauzeroon is through a pass 
 called the Tengui Turkoun, between two high branches of the mountains. 
 There is besides a road to the left, which leads over the mountain, and 
 which the Envoy and some of the party took, because the pass is very 
 famous for the attacks of the robbers. The road was, however, guarded 
 at different stations by matchlock men, who had been placed there by 
 the direction of the Prince, which was one of the numerous instances of 
 his great attention to the mission. 
 
 Having descended once again, we came into the plains of Kauzeroon. 
 From the eminence we perceived the river, which we had passed near 
 Khisht, winding in a N. and S. direction behind the western hills. The 
 city of Shapour we just discovered at the foot of a mountain, then bear- 
 ing N. 50 E. Hills of very subordinate elevation run out from the 
 great range of mountains, and leave here and there little plains which 
 are all comprehended under the name of the plain of Kauzeroon. 
 
 We were met at Derees by a great crowd, who gambolled and saluted 
 as usual. As we passed between the huts, the women of the village 
 were collected on the roofs, and greeted our approach by a loud and 
 tremendous species of song, which yet at a distance was not disagree- 
 able. Money was thrown amongst the crowd, which added much to 
 the confusion of the scene, and excited a most active and querulous 
 scramble. 
 
 About two miles from Kauzeroon we were met by Mahomed Kouli 
 Kuan, the Governor of that place, who was attended by a numerous 
 company of horsemen. Mr. Bruce, Dr. Jukes, and myself dis- 
 mounted to pay him the usual compliment, and he then turned back 
 with us to his own town. About a mile further, almost the whole male 
 population was collected to meet us. A bottle, which contained sugar- 
 candy, was broken under the feet of the Envoy's horse, a ceremony 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 85 
 
 never practised in Persia to any but to royal personages ; and then 
 about thirty wrestlers, in party-coloured breeches, (their only covering) 
 and armed with a pair of clubs called meals, begun each to make the 
 most curious noise, move in the most extravagant postures, and display 
 their professional exploits all the way before our horses, until we reached 
 our encampment. It would be difficult to describe a crowd so wild 
 and confused. The extreme jolting, running, pushing, and scrambling 
 almost bewildered me : while the dust, which seemed to powder the 
 beards of the Persians, nearly suffocated us all. Probably ten thousand 
 persons of all descriptions were assembled. Officers were dispersed 
 among them, and with whips and sticks drove the crowd backwards or 
 forwards, as the occasion required. Nothing could exceed the tumult 
 and cries. Here men were tumbling one over the other in the inequa- 
 lities of the ground ; there horses were galloping in every direction, 
 while their riders were performing feats with their long spears ; behind 
 was an impenetrable crowd ; before us were the wrestlers dancing 
 about to the sound of three copper drums, and twirling round their 
 clubs. On every side was noise and confusion. This ceremony is 
 never practised but to princes of the blood, and we considered, there- 
 fore, the honours of this day as a further proof of the reviving influence 
 of the English name. 
 
 On Christmas day Sir Hatitoro Jones and I visited the ruins of 
 Shapour. We reckoned the distance at fifteen miles, in nearly a north 
 direction from Kauzeroon. About seven miles from our encampment, 
 we passed again through the village of Derees, which, from the extent 
 of the ruined houses, must once have been a large town. Every house 
 is covered with an arched roof, a mode of building which probably 
 originated in the scarcity of timber. It is indeed common in all the 
 places which we have seen ; and the doors and porticoes are universally 
 formed by a Saracenic arch. A miserable population, thinly inter- 
 spersed among the ruins of Derees, came out to greet our passage. On 
 the northern extremity of the town there is a place of burial, and over 
 one of the tombstones there was the figure of a lion. 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 After having passed two tombs, one on the right side and one on 
 the left of the road, we came to the bed of a torrent, over which there 
 seems to have been built an aqueduct ; for, on either side of its banks, 
 are the remains of masonry, and the trace of its conduit is perceived 
 on the southern bank. The extent of the ruins of Shapour to the 
 southward is marked by a beautiful stream of water. Over the spring r 
 from which it issues, the road is built, sustained by fragments of archi- 
 tecture, which are a part of the entablature of some public build- 
 ing, and by their dimensions must have appertained to a very 
 considerable edifice. 
 
 Immediately after having passed this spring we came upon the ruins 
 of Shapour* When standing on an eminence we computed the whole 
 to be comprised, on a rough calculation, within a circumference of 
 six miles. This circumference enclosed a tract of plain, and a hill on 
 which the remains of the ancient citadel formed a conspicuous and 
 commanding object. Whether by a mere caprice of nature, or whether 
 by the labour of man, this hill or Acropolis is distinctly separated from 
 the great range of mountains, forming the Eastern boundary of the plain 
 of Kauzeroon. Between this and another imposing mass of rock runs the 
 beautiful river of Shapour : we reckoned the space between the two 
 rocks at thirty yards, which formed a little plain of verdure and shrub- 
 bery, intersected indeed by the stream of the river .-f- The opening be- 
 twixt the two grand masses presented a landscape the most varied, the 
 most tranquil, the most picturesque, and, at the same time, the most 
 sublime that imagination can form. A black and stupendous rock 
 (the strata of which were thrown into strong and wild positions, and 
 formed an acute angle with the horizon) flanked the right of the pic- 
 ture : whilst another still more extraordinary rock, as richly illumined 
 as the other was darkened, supported the left. Between both a distant 
 range of mountains, whose roots were terminated by a plain, filled up 
 the interstice, forming a fine aerial perspective ; whilst the river and its 
 
 * See the notes at the end. + Plate IX. which marks the situation of some of the sculptures- 
 

BUSIIIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 87 
 
 rich shrubbery completed a most enlivening fore-ground. The hill, on 
 which the remains of the citadel stand, is covered with the ruins of 
 walls and turrets. On its eastern aspect, the nature of the fortification 
 can be traced easily ; for walls fill the chasms from rock to rock, forming 
 altogether a place of defence admirably strong. 
 
 The first object which arrested our attention, was a mutilated sculp- 
 ture of two colossal figures on horseback, carved on the super- 
 ficcs of the rock. The -figure on the right was the most injured ; the 
 only part indeed, which we could ascertain with precision, was one of 
 the front and two of the hinder feet of a horse, standing over the statue 
 of a man, who was extended at his full length, his face turning out- 
 wardly, and reposed upon his right hand, and his attire bearing marks 
 of a Roman costume. A figure in the same dress was placed in an atti- 
 tude of supplication at the horse's knees, and a head in alto-relievo just 
 appeared between the hinder feet. The equestrian figure on the left 
 was not quite so much mutilated, the horse and parts of the drapery on 
 the thighs being still well preserved. The dimensions of the figures are 
 as follows : length of the foot of the figure under the horse, fifteen 
 inches ; length of the whole figure sixteen feet one inch ; length of the 
 arm five feet ; chin to the summit of the head one foot two inches ; 
 Jength of the horse's leg from the lower part of the shoulder to the hoof 
 four feet four ; the dress of the figures was a short petticoat, from the 
 waist downwards just below the knees. 
 
 The next piece of sculpture (which, like the former, was carved upon 
 the mountain of the citadel), is perfect in all its parts. It consists of 
 three grand compartments, the central and most interesting represents 
 a figure on horseback, whose dress announces a royal personage. His 
 head-dress is a crown, on which is placed a globe ; his hair flows in 
 very large and massy curls over both shoulders, whilst a slight musta- 
 chio just covers his upper lip, and gives much expression to a counte- 
 nance strongly indicative of pride and majesty. His body is clothed 
 with a robe which falls in many folds to his girdle, and then extends 
 itself over his thigh and legs as low as his ancle. A quiver hangs by 
 
88 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 his side; in his right hand he holds the hand of a figure behind him. 
 which stands so as to cover the whole hind quarter of his horse, and 
 which is dressed in the Roman tunic and helmet. A figure, habited 
 also in the Roman costume, is on its knees before the head of the 
 horse, with its hands extended, and with a face betraying entreaty. 
 Under the feet of the horse is another figure extended, in the same 
 attire and character as that of the other two Roman figures. To the 
 right of the tablet stands a figure (behind that in a suppliant attitude) 
 with his hands also extended, but dressed in a different manner, and, 
 as far as we could judge, with features more Egyptian than European. 
 In the angle between the king's head and the horse's is a Victory dis- 
 playing the scroll of Fame. A figure (part of which is concealed by 
 the one on its knees) completes the whole of this division. (Plate X.) 
 The second grand compartment, which is on the right, is divided again 
 into six sub-compartments ; in each of these are carved three figures, 
 the costumes and general physiognomies of which are all different. 
 They appear mostly in postures of supplication ; and, I should suspect, 
 are representations of vanquished people. On the left, in the third 
 grand compartment, are two rows of horsemen divided by one line into 
 two smaller compartments. They all have the same characteristic 
 dress and features as the royal figure in the centre, and certainly repre- 
 sent his forces. The whole of this most interesting monument is 
 sculptured on a very hard rock, which bears the finest polish, and which 
 we pronounced to be a coarse species of jasper. The shortness of our 
 stay did not afford me an opportunity of delineating the detail of the 
 many figures, which have been so faithfully pourtrayed. The artist 
 has preserved so much distinction in the countenances and features of 
 the different characters brought together in this groupe, that, if their 
 respective countries could be ascertained, (and study and close investi- 
 gation would probably secure the discovery) some important point of 
 ancient history would be elucidated by an evidence as ingenious as it 
 would be convincing. The dimensions we took are as follows : figures 
 on foot, height five feet nine inches; figures on horseback from the 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 89 
 
 rider's cap to the horse's hoofs six feet five inches : the minor tablets 
 are four feet ten inches in length ; the grand tablet eleven feet eleven 
 inches. 
 
 Having examined these, we next crossed the river to the sculptures on 
 the opposite rock. The first is a long tablet, containing a multitude 
 of figures. The principal person, (who is certainly the King repre- 
 sented in the former tablet) is placed in the very centre of the piece, 
 alone in a small compartment, and is seated with a sword placed be- 
 twixt his legs, on the pummel of which rests his left hand. It is a most 
 ridiculous object, with a head swelled by a singular wig to an immense 
 circumference. On his right, on the uppermost of two long slips, 
 are many men who seem to be a mixture of Persians and Romans ; 
 the former are conducting the latter as prisoners. Under these in the 
 lower slip are others, who by their wigs appear to be Persians : their 
 leader bears a human head in both hands, and extends it towards the 
 central figure. On the left are four small compartments; the first 
 (nearest that figure, and the highest from the ground) incloses a crowd 
 of men whose arms are placed over one another's shoulders. Below 
 these are five figures, one of whom leads a horse without any more fur- 
 niture than a bridle. The two other compartments are filled up 
 with eight figures each. We considered this to represent, in general, a 
 king seated iij. his room of audience surrounded by his own peo- 
 ple, and by nations tributary to him. The length is eleven yards 
 four inches. 
 
 On the left of this were two colossal figures on horseback, carved in 
 an alto relievo. The one to the right had all the dress, character and 
 features of the King above described ; the other, on the left, appeared 
 also a royal personage, but differing in dress, and in the furniture of his 
 horse. Both had their hands extended, and held a ring, which we 
 conceived to be emblematical of peace. The Envoy, who had seen 
 both these remains and Nakshi Rustam, prepared me to expect a 
 similar sculpture at the latter : and as I had not leisure to detail all the 
 
90 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 subjects of Shapour, I preferred to delineate those, of which no other 
 specimen might exist, and therefore proceeded in our general examina- 
 tion. I must not however omit to say, that the sculpture of these two 
 figures was exquisite; the proportions and anatomy of both horses and 
 men were accurately preserved, so that the very veins and arteries in 
 the horses' legs and belly were most delicately delineated. 
 
 Walking forwards we came to a very extensive piece of sculpture, 
 the lower parts of which were entirely destroyed. We saw, however, 
 on the right, a row of camels' and men s heads intermixed ; and under 
 them a row of horses' and men's heads, which were demolished from 
 the horse's eye downwards. In front of these, at the distance of about 
 four feet, was part of a figure on a horse, the King as before, holding a 
 bow and four arrows in his right hand. We supposed that this might 
 be the commencement of a hunting piece. [Plate XI.] 
 
 Our research terminated in a most perfect sculpture : the extreme 
 interest of which only increased our regret, that the shortness of our 
 time would not allow us to give it all the observation and study which 
 it required. This piece contained a greater number of objects than 
 any of the others, and a much greater diversity of characters. The 
 surface of the rock is here divided into a variety of unequal com- 
 partments, all of which are occupied by a multitude of figures. In 
 the middle, is a rather reduced copy of the second relievo which I 
 have described (that of the King and the suppliant) except that, facing 
 the King there is an additional personage with a hand extended holding 
 a ring. In the first row, at the top on the right, are a number of slight 
 figures with their arms folded. The second is filled with a crowd, of 
 which some carry baskets. The third is equally covered ; and in the 
 right corner there is a man conducting a lion by a chain. In the 
 fourth, and just opposite to the King, is a very remarkable groupe, 
 whose loose and folded dresses denote Indians: one leads a horse, 
 whose furniture I have drawn with some care, and behind the horse is 
 an elephant. Under this, and close to the ground, are men in a Ro- 
 man costume ; amongst them is a chariot to which two horses are har- 
 
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BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 91 
 
 nessed ; this also I have exactly delineated.* In five compartments on 
 the left (corresponding with those on the right) are placed thick 
 squadrons of Persian cavalry, all in a regular and military order, 
 marshalled as it were in echelon. Fourteen yards was the length of the 
 whole sculpture from point to point. 
 
 The path that conducted us round to these beautiful monuments, is 
 the course of an aqueduct, which appeared to be of more modern 
 workmanship. Bordering on the road which winds behind the hill 
 of the citadel, are numerous canals of water, formed most artificially 
 and closely cemented with darna. Besides these, there are very deep 
 wells, in parts of which the channels of the aqueduct are seen to pass. 
 After having repassed the river, we walked over the numerous mounds 
 of stones and earth which cover the ruined buildings of Shapour, and 
 which, if ever explored, would discover innumerable secrets of anti- 
 quity. We were conducted by the peasants who were with us, to the 
 remains of a very fine wall, which in the symmetry of its masonry 
 equalled any Grecian work that I have ever seen. Each stone was 
 four feet long, twenty-seven inches thick, and cut to the finest angles. 
 This wall formed the front to a square building, the area of which is 
 fifty-five feet. At the top were placed sphinxes couchant, a circum- 
 stance which we ascertained from discovering accidentally two eyes 
 and a mutilated foot at the extremity of one of the upper stones. In 
 this wall there is a window, which is arched by the formation 
 of its upper stone. Behind this square building, we traced most cor- 
 rectly the configuration of a theatre, thirty paces in length, and fourteen 
 in breadth. The place resembled at least those called theatres which I 
 have seen in Greece. From a comparison of their positions, we were 
 led to supposed that the building still extant must have been connected 
 with the other behind it, and may have formed perhaps the en- 
 trance to it. [Plate XIII.] 
 
 There are distinct mounds of earth scattered over the whole site of 
 
 * See the Fragments. The horse, the chariot, and the cavalry. Plate XII. 
 
 N % 
 
92 
 
 BUSIIIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 the city, to each of which there are one or more wells. These we 
 supposed to be ruins of separate houses. The people of Kauzeroon 
 relate that there are immense subterraneous passages at Shapour, and 
 connect the most extraordinary stories with them. Certainly one of 
 the least extraordinary is, that a horse and mare were lost in them, and 
 some time after re-appeared with a foal. Our informer added that one 
 of his own acquaintance was sent into these passages, and had ad- 
 vanced some way when he perceived a gigantic figure, which to his 
 fears appeared approaching towards him. He recovered himself how- 
 ever so far as to venture up to it, when, instead of a living monster, he 
 found a sculptured figure, the same as those on the exterior of the rock. 
 Asa measure of the extent of these labyrinths, they say, that it would 
 require twenty mauns of oil, (a maun is seven pounds and a quarter) to 
 light any one through all their intricacies. 
 
 The plants that we noticed near the river, on the site of the city, and 
 about the surrounding plain, were the palma christi, rodo-dendron, the 
 willow, wild fig, a plant which the Persians call shauk-a-booz, and caveer, 
 reeds, and benak or spice plant. The plain towards Shapour is much 
 more cultivated than towards Kauzeroon, and is intersected by a variety 
 of small artificial channels, which receive their supplies from the river. 
 The river itself is a stream of very fine water, but after having run 
 for about eighteen miles, it meets with a bed of salt among the moun- 
 tains, which renders its waters in its farther progress towards the sea 
 quite salt. 
 
 After having enjoyed the pleasure of exploring these remains, we re- 
 turned to Kauzeroon. This town covers a large extent of country, but 
 its walls and skirts are almost all in ruins. There is one green spot 
 near it, a garden planted chiefly with cypress and orange trees, and 
 belonging to the Governor. We walked there in the evening: at the 
 entrance is a pleasure house, from which the principal avenue and 
 garden are seen. We drank coffee in an upper room, neatly matted 
 and stuccoed, with painted glass windows ; and after having so long 
 roamed over barren mountains and desert plains, were much pleased to 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 93 
 
 meet with regular paths, refreshing rivulets, and luxuriant vegetation.* 
 The blackbird and the thrush were flying from tree to tree, and 
 reminded us how sensibly we had changed our climate. 
 
 We set off at eight o'clock on the morning of the 26th, and arrived at 
 our encampment in the valley of Abdoui, at half past twelve. The 
 road led by the walls of Kauzeroon, and through the plain, until we came 
 to a causeway called the Poul-aub-guinee, which is reckoned two 
 fursungs from Kauzeroon. From this spot (which is a swamp forming 
 the termination of the lake from the southward) the road begun to wind 
 up a high mountain called the Dockter or " Daughter/' Over this, in 
 the most difficult parts of the ascent, a road has been made, and parapet 
 walls built to screen the traveller from the dangers of the precipices, 
 which in some parts form an abrupt boundary to the road. Formerly 
 this road was singularly dangerous, and all the exertions and ingenuity 
 of the caravan drivers and leaders of mules were necessary to conduct 
 their animals in safety to the bottom. We were told that the driver, 
 when his mule was about descending a very steep part of the pass, 
 would seize it by the tail, and then with all his might hold it fast, until 
 the animal had found a footing for his fore feet, when again he helped 
 it in the same manner, until it was in perfect safety. We reached the 
 summit of the Dockter at about half past ten, and from thence we 
 marched over a better road, until we descended into the small and 
 beautiful valley of Abdoui. It is thickly covered with oak trees, which, 
 though of a small kind indeed, must in summer render it a verdant and 
 refreshing spot. 
 
 Whilst we were at dinner it was announced to the Envoy, that one 
 of his old Persian friends Mahomed Reza Khan was about to meet 
 him on his route ; tliat he was the bearer of good news, and would 
 therefore demand his moodjdehlook, the customary present. The news, 
 was the defeat of the Russians at Ei*ivan, whose loss in killed and 
 
 * " From the groves of orange tree9 at Kauzeroon, the bees cull a celebrated heney.' 
 
94 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 prisoners amounted, according to the Persian's report, to six thousand 
 men. A firman from the King was also announced to be at this time 
 on the road for the Envoy. 
 
 Our picturesque camp, which was interspersed amongst the oaks of 
 the valley, was in motion at a quarter before eight on the morning of the 
 27th. After traversing nearly the full length of the plain, perhaps four 
 miles, we proceeded to the long and tedious rise of the Peera zun, or 
 " Old Woman," a mountain, the greatest height of which formed the 
 termination of our several ascents. We were at the top at twelve 
 o'clock, when we commenced our descent into the plain of Desht-e- 
 arjun, at the north extremity of which is situated the village of the 
 same name. Before we entered it, we were met by Mahomed Reza 
 Khan, who presented his letters from the Minister at the court of 
 Shiraz, and who received our compliments on the success of the Persian 
 arms. About two miles before we reached our encampment, we were 
 met by the istakball, which was like all the others, excepting that it 
 was accompanied by an old man blowing a brass trumpet of most 
 broken, hoarse and discordant note, and by a ragged boy on an ass, 
 who was beating two little kettle drums. About a quarter of a mile 
 from the village there is a burial place, with a lion on one of the tombs 
 as at Derees, and just under the mountain are a number of willow trees, 
 watered by a fine gushing spring. 
 
 The plain itself is swampy ; but the heights which bound it are all 
 of a hard and inhospitable rock. In the swamp are wild fowl innu- 
 merable, ducks, snipes, and divers. The spring was here most luxuriant, 
 and rendered the plain of Desht-e-arjtm one of the most delightful 
 spots which we had seen in the country. Some of the eminences are 
 in summer covered with vines, the seps of which were now seen just 
 peeping out of the brown soil. We were fortunate in having passed 
 the mountains ; for we had scarcely reached our encampment, when 
 thick clouds covered their summits, and here and there left extensive 
 layers of snow. 
 
 On the 28th, the morning was extremely cold, when the camp broke 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 95 
 
 up ; we set off at half past eight, and arrived at our resting place at a 
 quarter to twelve, a distance which we call ten miles. We continued 
 all the road in the same region as the plain of Desht-e-arjun, nor do I 
 think that any very considerable descent had brought us much below 
 the summit of the Peer a Zun. The people of the country reckon 
 Rhone Zenioun colder than Desht-e-a?jun, and indeed than any other 
 habitable place on their side of Persia. These spots are certainly much 
 more elevated than any other part in the line of our route. At Rhone 
 Zenioun there is only a Caravanserai; near it a small stream runs to 
 the Eastward ; we came to its banks at half past ten o'clock, but did 
 not cross it till close under the walls of the Caravanserai. 
 
 Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the informa- 
 tion that Kerim Khan, the bearer of the King's letter, was within a 
 mile of our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with 
 every honour, we exchanged*our travelling clothes for uniforms and 
 swords, which the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of cere- 
 mony among Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the Shiraz 
 road, with the body guard in their best clothes, with flying co- 
 lours and trumpets sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter 
 of a mile, when we perceived the Khan and his party descending 
 a neighbouring hill. The Envoy, the Mehmandar, and all the gentle- 
 men of the suite dismounted from their horses, and walked in form 
 towards Kerim Khan, who, in the same manner, advanced towards us 
 with an attendant behind him, bearing the King's firman. When the 
 greetings of welcome were interchanged, the Rhan took the King's 
 letter from under a handkerchief, with which it was covered, and deli- 
 vered it into the Envoy's hands, saying aloud, " This is the King's 
 "firman." Sir Harford received it with both his hands, and having car- 
 ried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his breast. We then mounted 
 our horses, and returned to the Envoy's tent, where all parties were 
 seated according to their respective ranks. A long exchange of com- 
 pliments then took place between the principals, M khosh amedeed" and 
 
96 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 " bisgar khosk amedeed" (you are welcome, you are very welcome), 
 were repeated again and again. This is the phrase after the " selam 
 " alek" which is always used in Persia, and which answers to the 
 " khosh gneldin" of the Turks. The Turks never use the " selam akk" 
 to a Christian, or to one who is not of the faith ; but the Persians are 
 less scrupulous. Kerim Khan conveyed many nattering compli- 
 ments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his 
 own part. Sir Harford called for Peer Murad Beg, his chief 
 Moonshee, to read the firman. He arrived barefooted, and stood re- 
 spectfully at the end of the tent; when the firman was put into his 
 hands all the company stood up, and the Europeans took off their 
 hats: Peer Murad Beg read the firman aloud, with a marked 
 and song-like emphasis. He then delivered it to Sir Harford, 
 and we all seated ourselves again. After this, the usual routine 
 of smoking and coffee was performed^,' during which t:he different 
 gentlemen in the room were presented to Kerim Khan'; our Meh- 
 mandar officiated in this instance, and described all our different 
 qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour. Kerim 
 Khan then departed to lodge with the Mehmandar, who, on this 
 occasion, displayed considerable attention, though, in his general 
 manners, he had appeared a rough blunt soldier: knowing that the 
 Envoy (to whom in etiquette the duty devolved) was unprovided for 
 the reception of such a guest, he requested permission himself to en- 
 tertain the stranger. 
 
 29th. We departed from KhonS Zenioun this morning at half past 
 seven ; and at a quarter past eleven arrived at the Bagh Shah Cheragh, 
 a distance of twenty miles. We travelled mostly over a country of 
 ascents and descents, and on a better road than those of the pre- 
 ceding days. The same river, by the banks of which we had been 
 encamped, accompanied us in various directions, and, winding towards 
 the east, met us at a station of Rahdars,* (as we were entering the 
 
 * Niebuhr calls it Tchinar Raddar; he encamped there. Tom. II. p. 91. 
 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 9? 
 
 plain of Shiraz), where we crossed it on a decayed bridge, and saw the 
 first view of Shiraz at the end of the plain. This day was replete with 
 attentions and honours to Sir Harford and his Mission; an istakball, 
 composed of fifty horsemen of our Mehmandars tribe, met us about three 
 miles from our encampment ; they were succeeded, as we advanced, by an 
 assemblage on foot, who threw a glass vessel filled with sweetmeats be- 
 neath the Envoy's horse, a ceremony which we had before witnessed at 
 Kauzeroon, and which we again understood to be an honour shared 
 with the King and his sons alone. Then came two of the principal 
 merchants of Shiraz, accompanied by a boy, the son of Mahomed 
 Nebee Khan, the new Governor of Bushire. They, however, incurred 
 the Envoy's displeasure by not dismounting from their horses, a form 
 always observed in Persia by those of lower rank, when they meet a 
 superior. We were thus met by three istakballs during the course of 
 the day, and Mahomed Zeky Khan, our Mehmandar, amused us by 
 the singing of a young boy, one of the first professional performers of 
 Shiraz. A number of feats were performed by many of the horsemen 
 who overspread the plain to a great extent ; some throwing the girid, 
 and then firing their pistols and muskets on full gallop, and others 
 throwing the lance in the air, and catching it again. 
 
 On our road the Mehmandar, who had just received the message from 
 Shiraz, announced that one of the Prince's own tents was pitched at 
 Bagh Shah Cheragh for the Envoy, and that the Prince further begged 
 his acceptance of it. The present, which was offered with so much 
 attention and delicacy, was worthy of the hand which gave it. On our 
 arrival we found it displayed in the full elegance of its construction* 
 It enclosed a large square occupied by a set of walls, the exterior of 
 which was a crimson field, with green embroidery ; on their interior 
 covering were worked cypress trees and fighting lions. The whole 
 was supported by three lofty and elegantly painted poles. Rich carpets 
 were spread on the ground, and the ceilings and hangings were of the 
 finest Masulipatam chintz, with appropriate poetical mottoes painted 
 
 
 
98 
 
 BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
 
 in the cornices. The Feroshes (or tent-pitchers) had contrived to make 
 a small temporary garden before the entrance, and to introduce a little 
 stream of water to run through the few green sprouts which they had 
 planted. Three large trays of sweetmeats were placed in the tent 
 ready for the Envoy's reception ; upon which, when our visitors were 
 departed* we fed heartily. During the night, a fall of snow very oppor- 
 tunely laid the dust for our entrance into the city, in which were to be 
 displayed all our splendour and finery. 
 
 ■ 
 'i 
 • I 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
CHAP. VI. 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 ; . . 
 
 PUBLIC ENTRY INTO SHIRAZ — HONORS PAID TO THE MISSION-*-* 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE CTTY THF. ETSTVIROTSTS : TOMB OF HAFIZjj 
 
 haft-ten; story of sheik chenan; gardens; pleasure 
 
 houses introduction at the court of shiraz the 
 
 palace the prince his government fete given to 
 
 the envoy by the minister — present from the prince s 
 
 own table the chief secretary's entertainment 
 
 second interview with the prince — review — the fete 
 given to the mission by the mehmandar — the prince's 
 present; dresses of honor. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th Dec. the day fixed for our public entry 
 into Shiraz, all the suite appeared in full uniforms, and the Envoy in a 
 Persian cloak or catabee made of shawl, and lined with Samoor fur; a 
 dress permitted to the Princes alone, and on that account assumed by 
 Sir Harford, as the best means of conveying to the senses of the 
 multitude, the high consideration of the office which he bore. We pro- 
 ceeded from our encampment at ten o'clock. The troop was dressed 
 in their richest uniform, and made a very splendid escort. Our Meh* 
 mandar marshalled the whole of the Persian horsemen so admirably. 
 
 o2 
 
100 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 that none crowded upon us in our march, and they only played about 
 as usual and animated the plain by their noise and games. 
 
 At about two miles from the city we were met by some of the chief 
 men of the place. It was a long contested negociation, whether they 
 also were to pay the Envoy the compliment of dismounting, nor 
 would they have submitted to this part of the ceremony, if Kerim 
 Khan, the bearer of the King's letter, had not rode forwards and re- 
 presented to them, that as he was sent from His Majesty to see that 
 every respect was properly shewn to the representative of the British 
 King, he must report their present conduct at Teheran. This hint had 
 the desired effect; and, as their party approached, the chiefs dis- 
 mounted, and I, with some other gentlemen of the Mission, dismounted 
 also, and went forward to meet them: the Envoy formally expressed 
 his determination to alight to nobody but the Minister. Those who 
 had yielded the honour thus reluctantly, were Bairam Ali Khan 
 Cad jar, the Ish Agassi, or Master of the Ceremonies of the Prince's 
 Household, and Hassan Khan Cadjar, both of the King's own 
 family; Ahmed Beg, one of the sons of Nasr Oallah Khan, the 
 Prince's Prime Minister; and Mirza Zain La bade en, the Chief 
 Secretary. We proceeded slowly across the plain ; the crowd and con- 
 fusion increased almost impenetrably, as we approached the city, and 
 nothing but the strength of our Mehmandar could have forced the 
 passage. Mounted on his powerful large horse he was in all parts, dis- 
 persing one crowd, pushing forwards another, and dealing out the most 
 unsparing blows to those who were disinclined to obey his call. At the 
 gate, however, notwithstanding all his exertions, the closing numbers 
 detained our progress for above a quarter of an hour ; and vollies of 
 blows were necessary to clear the entrance. 
 
 At length it was effected : the Envoy led the column, surrounded by 
 the Persian grandees, and followed by the gentlemen of the mission in 
 their rank, and the troop of the body guard. We passed through many 
 streets to the Bazar-a-Vakeel, a long and spacious building, the shops of 
 which were all laid out with their choicest merchandize to display on 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 101 
 
 the occasion the plenty and prosperity of the country. The bazar 
 itself is the most splendid monument of the taste and magnificence of 
 Kerim Khan, who administered the affairs of Persia with sovereign 
 authority, under the name of Vakeel or Regent, and died in 1779. 
 The centre is marked above by a rotunda, and beneath by an enclosed 
 platform ; in the middle of which was seated the Cutwal or Minister of 
 Police. The trumpet of the troop, which was sounded all through the 
 streets, continued with finer effect under the covered roofs of the bazar. 
 As the Envoy passed, every one stood up ; all knew at least the blows 
 which followed any dilatoriness. 
 
 After a long procession we arrived at the house appropriated for our 
 reception. It was neatly built of a pale yellow brick, and was very 
 spacious, though considerably out of repair, and indeed in some parts 
 falling into absolute ruin. We were ushered into an apartment, where 
 a large service of sweetmeats and fruits was prepared for us. Here we 
 sat, until we had dispatched the usual forms of a visit with the 
 grandees who had met us, and had accompanied us thus far. The re- 
 maining part of the day was occupied in receiving other less noble visi- 
 tants, and in accepting the countless presents which were sent from 
 various parts, and which consisted for the most part of live lambs, 
 fruits and sweetmeats. The store of sweetmeats at last became so 
 great, that they were distributed amongst our numerous servants, 
 troopers, and feroshes. Among those, who succeeded the original party 
 of our guests, was an officer dispatched by the Minister Nasr Oallah 
 Khan with the intimation, that he deferred till the next day the 
 pleasure of visiting the Envoy, in the fear that at present he might be 
 fatigued with his journey. But our more brilliant visitors were Yusuf 
 Beg, a Georgian youth of pleasing manners, a favourite in the suite of 
 the Prince; and Abdullah Khan, who was nominated to officiate as 
 our Mehmandar, till we should meet on the road an officer appointed 
 by the King from his capital to assume the functions in the further 
 progress of the Mission. 
 
102 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 31st. Nasr Oallah Khan, accompanied by many of the greatest 
 men of Shiraz, paid their visit of ceremony to the Envoy. The mini- 
 ster s maimers were plain, his features hard, and his beard peculiarly 
 black. The usual routine of complimentary speeches and of other cere- 
 monies occupied both parties during his stay. The Envoy, from the 
 pressing invitation of the court, determined to hasten his departure 
 towards Teheran; and eight days were fixed for our stay at Shiraz t 
 though circumstances afterwards occasioned a further delay. 
 
 Shiraz has six gates : it is divided into twelve mahalehs or parishes, 
 in which there are fifteen considerable mosques, besides many others 
 of inferior note ; eleven medresses or colleges, fourteen bazars, thirteen 
 caravanserais, and twenty-six hummums or baths. Of the gardens round, 
 the principal are private property. 
 
 Of all the mosques, the Mesjed Ali (built in the Khalifat of Abbas) 
 is the most ancient, and the Mesjid No the largest. It was indeed ori- 
 ginally the palace of Attabek Shah, who, in a dangerous illness of 
 his son, consulted the Mollahs, and was answered, (as the only means 
 of the recovery of his child) that he must devote to the Almighty that, 
 which of all his worldly goods he valued most. He accordingly con- 
 verted his palace into a mosque, and the Mahomedans add, that his 
 son was in consequence restored to health. The Mesjid Jume'h is 
 likewise an ancient structure, and there are six others of an older date 
 than the time of Kerim Khan. Of the more modern mosques of 
 Shiraz the Mesjid Vakeel, the only one built by that Prince, is the 
 most beautiful. 
 
 Kerim Khan begun a college, but never finished it: there were 
 already six, one of the earliest of which (that founded by Imaum Kouli 
 Khan) is still the most frequented. Another was added by Haushem, 
 father of Hajee Ibrahim, the Vizier of the late King ; and the Peish 
 Namaz and Mooshtehed (Chief Priest of the city) built another. 
 
 The trades in Persia as in Turkey are carried on in separate bazars, 
 in which their shops are extended adjacent to each other on both sides 
 
 Hfa 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 103 
 
 of the building. Before the reign of Kerim Khan, there were the 
 bazars of the shoemakers, tinmen, crockery-ware-dealers, and poul- 
 terers, and about seven others : after his time the Bazar Saduck Khan 
 was built ; but the most extensive, as well as the most beautiful of all, 
 was that already described, founded by Keium Khan himself, and 
 called the Bazar~a-Vakeel. 
 
 Of the caravanserais, the Kaisarieh Khoneh, built by Imaum Kouli 
 Khan, and now in ruins, is the most ancient. There is another old 
 structure, which was restored from a state of great decay, and assumed 
 the name of its second founder Ali Khan. There are five others, of 
 which one is called daphaugaun, or the dressers of sheep-skins for caps ; 
 another dakaukha, or dyers ; another Hindoohan, where the Hindoos 
 reside. These were all built before the accession of Kerim Khan, a 
 date at which the splendour of Shiraz revived. He added two within 
 the city, and one beyond the walls, and others have since been 
 erected. 
 
 The same Prince enriched his capital with three public baths, two 
 within and one without the town. Four have since been raised, but 
 there were already, before his reign, nineteen similar foundations. 
 
 There are several rnausolea in Shiraz; the most distinguished of 
 those without the walls is that of Hafiz : there is also beyond the 
 city, that of Mir Ali, son of Mirza Hamza, and grandson of the 
 Imaum Musa. 
 
 In an evening ride we visited the environs, and, leaving the city by 
 the Ispahan gate, crossed a bridge in very bad repair. The torrent 
 (over which it was thrown) in the day of Chardin passed through the 
 town ; it now flows in solitude, a mournful proof of the decay of Shiraz. 
 We came to the Mesjid Shah Mirza Hamza, a mosque erected by 
 Kerim Khan, in a separate chamber of which are laid the remains 
 ©f his son Abdul Rakeem Khan. In the front court is an old and 
 majestic cypress. Although some parts of the fabric are in decay, it is 
 still beautiful. Its walls are built of the fine brick employed in all 
 the public work3 of its founder, and, indeed, in the best houses of 
 
104 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 Shiraz. Its cupola is covered with green-lacquered tiles of a semicir- 
 cular form, which, fitted in close lines, give a symmetrical appearance of 
 ribs to its shining surface. At the foot of the cupola, in Persian 
 characters, are verses from the Koran and invocations to the prophet. 
 Continuing our ride from this mosque, we turned out of the fine high 
 road, which is fifty feet broad and very even ; and followed a smaller 
 path on the right to the Hafizeea on the tomb of Hafiz, the most 
 favourite of Persian poets. This monument also, in its present state at 
 least, is alike the work of Ke rim Khan. It is placed in the court of 
 a pleasure house, which marks the spot frequented by the poet. The 
 building; extends across an enclosure : so that the front of it, which looks 
 towards the city, has a small court before it, and the back has another. 
 In the centre is an open vestibule supported by four marble columns, 
 opening on each side in to neat apartments . The tomb of H a f i z is placed 
 in the back court, at the foot of one of the cypress trees, which he planted 
 with his own hands. It is a parallelogram with a projecting base, and its 
 superficies is carved in the most exquisite manner. One of the Odes of the 
 Poet is engraved upon it, and the artist has succeeded so well, that the 
 letters seem rather to have been formed with the finest pen than sculptured 
 by a hard chissel. The whole is of the diaphanous marble of Tabriz, in 
 colour a combination of light greens, with here and there veins of red and 
 sometimes of blue. Some of the cypresses are very large, but Aga 
 Be sheer, the present chief of the Queen's eunuchs, who happened 
 to require timber for a building, cut down two of the most magnificent 
 trees. This is a place of great resort for the Persians, who go there to 
 smoke kaleoons, drink coffee, and recite verses. 
 
 After having done this, we proceeded forward, passing by the Chehel- 
 ten or forty bodies, until we came to the Haft-ten or seven bodies, both 
 buildings erected by Ke rim Khan to the memories of pious and ex- 
 traordinary men who lived there as Derveishes. The Haft-ten is a 
 pleasure house, the front of which is an enclosed garden planted with 
 rows of cypress and chenar trees (a species of sycamore, with a verdure 
 like that of the plane,) and interspersed with marble fountains. In its 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 105 
 
 principal room, which is open in front and supported by two marble 
 columns, are some paintings, many of which represent the sanctity of 
 the Derveishes lives, and the ceremonies of the self-inflicted torments of 
 their bodies. The principal paintings are Abraham's Sacrifice of Isaac, 
 on the right; on the left, Moses keeping the flocks of Jethro. In the 
 centre is the story of Sheik Chenan, a popular tale in Shiraz. 
 Sheik Chenan, a Persian of the true faith, and a man of learning and 
 consequence, fell in love with an Armenian lady of great beauty, who 
 would not marry him unless he changed his religion. To this he agreed : 
 still she would not marry him, unless he would drink wine : this scruple 
 also he yielded. She resisted still, unless he consented to eat pork : 
 with this also he complied. Still she was coy and refused to fulfil her 
 engagement, unless he would be contented to drive swine before her. 
 Even this condition he accepted : and she then told him that she would 
 not have him at all, and laughed at him for his pains. The picture re- 
 presents the coquette at her window, laughing at Sheik Chenan, as 
 he is driving his pigs before her. The wainscoting of this room is of 
 Tabriz marble : one of the largest slabs is nine feet in length, and five 
 feet in breadth. 
 
 We quitted this pretty place, and taking the road to the right came 
 to a magnificent garden, another evidence of the splendour of the 
 age of Kerim Khan. From its founder it was called in his time 
 Bagh-a-Vakeel, but it has since acquired the name of Bagh-e-Iehan- 
 Ne?nah. An immense wall, of the neatest construction, encloses a 
 square tract of land, which is laid out into walks, shaded by cypress 
 and chenar trees, and watered by a variety of marble canals and small 
 artificial cascades. Over the entrance, which is a lofty and arched 
 passage, is built a pleasure-house. It consists of a centrical room with a 
 small closet at each corner. The ornaments and pain tings with which it 
 is embellished, are more rich and more elegant than I can describe. 
 The wainscot is of Tabriz marble, and inlaid with gold and ornamental 
 flowers, birds, and domestic animals. The pannels of the doors are 
 beautiful paintings, with the richest and most brilliant varnish ; and the 
 
106 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 ceiling and walls are all parcelled out into compartments, which 
 display equal execution. From the window I took a sketch of the 
 tomb of Hafiz, which lay contiguous to it on the left hand. The town 
 of Shiraz, with all its campagna, was full before my sight ; whilst the 
 setting sun threw the softest and most beautiful tints over the fine 
 scenery of the surrounding mountains. (See Plate XIV.) In the centre of 
 the bagh or garden is another of the principal pleasure-houses, which 
 they call koola-frangee or Frank's hat, because it is built something in 
 the shape of one. There is a basin in the middle of the principal room, 
 where a fountain plays and refreshes the air. The paintings and orna- 
 ments are not less beautiful and are more varied, than those of the last 
 described building. The cornices are laid out into small compartments, 
 where the painter has exerted his genius and fancy in delineating the 
 most fantastical little pictures. Here are hunts of lions, there the com- 
 bats of elephants and dragons : in one corner are dancing bears and 
 monkies, in another are represented the heroes and heroines of fairy 
 tales. The whole procession and amusements of a marriage are drawn 
 in one compartment, and next to them all the ceremonies of a circum- 
 cision. In short, if the painter's art had been equal to his fancy, these 
 different compositions would have excited as much admiration as they 
 now afforded amusement. The whole soil of this garden is artificial, 
 having been excavated from the area below, and raised into a high 
 terrace. The garden is now falling into decay ; but those who saw it in 
 the reign of Kerim Khan delight to describe its splendour, and do 
 not cease to give the most ravishing pictures of the beauty of all the 
 environs of his capital. 
 
 Having enjoyed the present remains of the scene, we returned to the 
 high road (on the right of which it is situated) and followed it to the 
 Tengui-AU-Acbar, a fortified pass in the time of the greatness of Shiraz, 
 and long indeed before that time. Here are the remains of that gate, 
 of which Le Br un in his travels has given a very correct drawing. 
 From the situation in which I sketched the ruin, I fancy that I must 
 have rested upon the very stone where Le Brun took his view : and 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 ior 
 
 there is only that difference between the two, which unfortunately exists 
 in the real scene ; that mine presents devastation, where his picture 
 displays life and cultivation. An old Derveish now lives in a small cell 
 close to the ruined gate, and refreshes the passing stranger with a cup 
 of pure water. The remaining walls and turrets, which are nearly at- 
 tached to the gate on the Shiraz side, still attest the artificial strength 
 of the pass in former days ; and the formation of the lands around 
 points it out as a spot which the modern perfection of military art would 
 render an almost impregnable hold. 
 
 The Takht-a-Cadjar is a pleasure-house about a mile and a half East 
 of the town, erected by the present Family, and situated in an enclosed 
 garden of about twenty acres. It is built on a rock, but is much in- 
 ferior indeed both in solidity and ornament, to any of the works of 
 Kerim Khan. From the upper window of one of its rooms, I took 
 a view of the city, which extended itself beautifully before me. This 
 pleasure-house is much visited by the Prince ; on the left side of it he 
 has an enclosed place in which he keeps antelopes and other game. 
 From the quantity of water which runs through it, the garden itself 
 must be most luxuriant in vegetation, and in summer a most delight- 
 ful spot. 
 
 1st January, 1809- The first day of the new year was fixed for our 
 visit to the Prince. On the day appointed, accordingly Sir Harford, 
 preceded by our Mehmandar, and followed by the gentlemen of his 
 Mission and the body guard, paraded through the town as on the day 
 of our entry, until we reached the gate of state. The streets were filled 
 as before, and the bazars displayed all their wealth. The first gate 
 introduced us immediately from the bazar into the first court of the 
 palace. The breadth and length of this court were of large and fine 
 proportions. The high summits of its walls were crowned with arched 
 battlements, the planes of which were worked in a species of close 
 lattice. We proceeded through this court into another, the spacious 
 area of which seemed to form a complete square. Its magnificent walls 
 were covered in regular compartments with various implements of 
 
 p 2 
 

 108 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 war arranged in distinct niches. Among them (besides spears, mus- 
 kets, Sec. and the small ensigns of their service) were the brass guns, 
 called zomboorek, which are mounted on the backs of camels. Along 
 the range stood soldiers in uniforms of scarlet cloth, an awkward imita- 
 tion of the Russian military dress. 
 
 About thirty paces from the principal gate Sir Harpord dis- 
 mounted, and followed by us all, whilst the trumpet of the troop 
 sounded the salute, advanced through the portico. Here the Ish Agassi, 
 or Master of the Ceremonies, Bairam Ali Khan Cadjar, who had 
 been seated in a small place opposite the entrance, rose at our approach 
 to meet us. He then called for his staff of office, (a black cane with a 
 carved pummel) and placing himself at the head of the party, led us 
 through rather a mean passage into a spacious court, at the extremity 
 of which appeared the Prince. He was seated in a kind of open room, 
 the front of which was supported by two pillars elegantly gilded 
 and painted. This is called the Dewan KhonSh, or Chamber of 
 Audience. 
 
 In the centre of the court is an avenue of lofty trees, at the sides of 
 which are two long canals : these numerous fountains threw up a 
 variety of little spouts of water, to the jingle of the wheels and bells of 
 their machinery. On all sides of the court were placed in close files a 
 number of well dressed men armed with muskets, pistols, and swords ; 
 these were the subalterns and the better sort of the soldiery in the 
 Prince's guard. Amongst them were here and there intermixed 
 officers of high rank. In the centre of the avenue, and on the borders 
 of the canal stood in long rows, respectfully silent and in postures 
 of humility, all the chief Officers, Khans, Governors of towns and 
 districts. 
 
 When we entered the court, the Ish Agassi stopt and made a very 
 Tow obeisance towards the Prince; and Sir Harford and his Mission 
 made an English bow, and just took off their hats. These salutations, 
 which were made four times in as many different places of the court, 
 were repeated as we entered the Dewan Khontk. The Prince in all this 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 109 
 
 looked at us, but did not stir a muscle : we now proceeded straight 
 forwards until Sir Harford faced the Prince, where he was then 
 directed to sit, and we all took our stations in order. When we were 
 seated, the Prince said in a loud voice, " Khosh Amedeed" that is, 
 " you are welcome;" which was repeated by Nasr Oallah Khan 
 his Minister, who stood at about five paces from him in an attitude of 
 respect. Sir Harford made the compliments required, when the 
 Prince desired us to sit at our ease. We however, as in a former in- 
 stance, chose to be respectful and uncomfortable, and to continue in 
 the fashion of Persia. 
 
 The Prince then added a variety of nattering things, talked of the 
 friendship of the two nations, said how anxious his Father was to see 
 the Embassador, and advised him to proceed to his court without 
 delay. We had kaleoons, then coffee, and then (a compliment not re- 
 peated to a common guest) another haleoon. After this was over, we 
 got up, and making an obeisance, quitted the Prince's presence with 
 every precaution not to turn our backs as we departed. The same 
 number of bows, repeated in the same places as on our entrance, closed 
 the audience. 
 
 A li Mirza, the Prince of Shiraz, is not the least amiable of the 
 King's sons. After Prince Abbas Mirza, the Governor of Ader- 
 bigian, and the Heir of the crown, he is his father's greatest favourite. 
 In person he is an engaging youth of the most agreeable countenance 
 and of very pleasing manners. His dress was most sumptuous ; his 
 breast was one thick coat of pearls, which was terminated downwards 
 by a girdle of the richest stuffs. In this was placed a dagger, the head 
 of which dazzled by the number and the brilliancy of its inlaid 
 diamonds. His coat was rich crimson and gold brocade, with a thick 
 fur on the upper part. Around his black cap was wound a Cashmire 
 shawl, and by his side, in a gold platter, was a string of the finest 
 pearls. Before him was placed his kaleoon of state, a magnificent toy, 
 thickly inlaid with precious stones in every distinct part of its ma- 
 chinery. To me the Prince appeared to be under much constraint 
 
110 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 during the ceremony of our audience ; in which he had been previously 
 tutored by his minister : and I very easily believe, according to the 
 stories related of him, that he exchanges with eagerness these etiquettes 
 of rank for the less restrained enjoyments of his power. On these he 
 lavishes his revenue ; and in the costliness of a hunting equipage, the 
 fantasies of dress, and the delicacies of the Harem are frittered away a 
 hundred thousand tomautis sl year. Young as he is, (for he is only 
 nineteen) he has already a family of eight children. In his public 
 government he is much beloved by his people; and although the 
 Persians are not inclined in conversation to spare the faults of their 
 superiors, of him I never heard an evil word. He has not indeed those 
 sanguinary propensities, which are almost naturally imbibed in the 
 possession of despotic power ; and where others cut off ears, slit noses, 
 and pierce eyes, he contents himself with the administration of the more 
 lenient bastinado. 
 
 Nasr Oallah Khan is appointed by the King to remit to the 
 court of Teheran any surplus revenue ; an office probably neither easy 
 to the Minister, nor acceptable to the Prince, whose immense and 
 splendid establishments exact a very liberal proportion of the whole 
 receipts of the province. In his actual service and pay the Prince has 
 only a force of one thousand cavalry, of which two hundred (the quota 
 furnished by the Baktiar tribe) form his body guard ; but in an emer- 
 gency he could sent to the war twenty thousand horsemen. His troops 
 provide their own arms and clothing, and they receive annually in pay 
 forty piastres, and a daily allowance of one maun (seven pounds and a 
 quarter) of barley, two mauns of straw, and a quarter of a maun of 
 wheat, except in spring when their horses feed on the new herbage. 
 They have further, each in his own country, for the maintenance of 
 their families, a certain allotment of land, which they till and sow, and 
 of which they reap the annual fruits. When a new levy is ordered, 
 the head of each tribe brings forward the number which the state has 
 required of him. 
 
 4th. At about one hour before sunset, we repaired to the house of 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 Ill 
 
 the Minister, to partake of an entertainment which was given to the 
 Envoy. We had scarcely dismounted from our horses at the Minister's 
 gate, when the crowd, anxious to obtain admission, rushed forward, and 
 long impeded the passage of the suite ; until our Mehmanclar himself 
 commanded respect by administering a volley of blows with a stick on 
 the heads of the surrounding multitude. As soon as the Envoy entered 
 the court, (which appeared from the numbers already pressed into it, 
 to be the scene of the amusement), the Persian music struck up, and a 
 rope dancer, whose rope stood conspicuous in the centre, begun to 
 vault into the air. 
 
 Abdullah Khan, the Minister's Son, conducted us into the 
 presence of his father, where we soon ranged ourselves among a numer- 
 ous company of the Nobles of the place, who were invited to meet us. 
 Abdullah Khan, who is a man of about thirty, and a person of 
 much consequence at Shiraz, never once seated himself in the apart- 
 ment where his father sat, but, according to the Eastern customs of filial 
 reverence, stood at the door like a menial servant, or went about super- 
 intending the entertainments of the day. As soon as we were settled, 
 the amusements commenced ; and at the same moment the rope-dancer 
 vaulted, the dancing boys danced, the water-spouter spouted, the fire- 
 eater devoured fire, the singers sung, the musicians played on their 
 kamovnchas, and the drummers beat lustily on their drums. This 
 singular combination of noises, objects and attitudes, added to the 
 cries and murmurs of the crowd around, amused, yet almost dis- 
 tracted us. 
 
 The rope-dancer performed some feats, which really did credit to his 
 profession. He first walked over his rope with his balancing pole, then 
 vaulted on high ; he ascended the rope to a tree in an angle of forty- 
 five degrees ? but, as he was reaching the very extremity of the upper range 
 of the angle, he could proceed no further, and remained in an uncertain 
 position for the space of two minutes. He afterwards tied his hands to 
 a rope-ladder of three large steps ; and, first balancing his body by the 
 
112 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 middle on the main line let fall the ladder and himself, and was only 
 brought up by the strength of his wrists thus fastened to their support. 
 He next put on a pair of high-heeled shoes, and paraded about again ; 
 then put his feet into two saucepans, and walked backwards and for- 
 wards. After this he suspended himself by his feet from the rope ; and, 
 taking a gun, deliberately loaded and primed it, and, in that pendant 
 position, took an aim at an egg (placed on the ground beneath him) and 
 put his ball through it. After this he carried on his back a child, whom 
 he contrived to suspend, with his own body besides, from the rope, 
 and thence placed in safety on the ground. His feats were numerous 
 (and as he was mounted on a rope much more elevated than those on 
 which such exploits are displayed in England), they were also propor- 
 tionably dangerous. A trip would have been his inevitable destruction. 
 He was dressed in a fantastical jacket, and wore a pair of breeches of 
 crimson satin, something like those of Europeans. The boys danced, 
 or rather paced the ground, snapping their fingers to keep time with the 
 music, jingling their small brass castanets, and uttering extraordinary 
 cries. To us all this was tiresome, but to the Persians it appeared very 
 clever. One of the boys having exerted himself in various difficult leaps, 
 at last took two kunjurs or daggers, one in each hand ; and with these, 
 springing forwards, and placing their points in the ground, turned 
 himself head over heels between them ; and again, in a second display, 
 turned himself over with a drawn sword in his mouth. 
 
 A negro appeared on the side of a basin of water (in which three 
 fountains were already playing), and, by a singular faculty which he 
 possessed of secreting liquids, managed to make himself a sort of 
 fourth fountain, by spouting water from his mouth. We closely ob- 
 served him : he drank two basins and a quarter of water, each holding 
 about four quarts, and he was five minutes spouting them out. Next 
 came an eater of fire : this man brought a large dish full of charcoal, 
 which he placed deliberately before him, and then, taking up the pieces, 
 conveyed them bit by bit successively into his mouth, and threw them 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 113 
 
 out again when the fire was extinguished. He then took a piece, from 
 which he continued to blow the most brilliant sparks for more than half 
 an hour. The trick consists in putting in the mouth some cotton 
 dipped in the oil of Naptha, on which the pieces of charcoal are laid 
 and from which they derive the strength of their fire : now the flame of 
 this combustible is known to be little calid. Another man put into his 
 mouth two balls alternately, which burnt with a brilliant flame, and 
 which also were soaked in the same fluid. 
 
 The music was of the roughest kind. The performers were seated in 
 a row round the basin of water ; the band consisted of two men, who 
 played the kamounclw, a species of violin ; four, who beat the taru- 
 borin ; one, who thrummed the guitar ; one, who played on the spoons ; 
 and two who sung. The loudest in the concert were the songsters, 
 who, when they applied the whole force of their kings, drowned every 
 other instrument. The man with the spoons seemed to me the most 
 ingenious and least discordant of the whole band. He placed two 
 wooden spoons in a neat and peculiar manner betwixt the fingers of his 
 left hand, whilst he beat them with another spoon in his right. 
 
 All this continued till the twilight had fairly expired ; when there 
 commenced a display of fire-works on a larger scale than any that I 
 recollect to have seen in Europe. In the first place, the director of 
 the works caused to be thrown into the fountain before us a variety of 
 fires, which were fixed on square flat boards, and which bursting into 
 the most splendid streams and stars of flame, seemed to put the water 
 in one entire blaze. He then threw up some beautiful blue lights, and 
 finished the whole by discharging immense vollies of rockets which had 
 been fixed in stands, each of twenty rockets, in different parts of the 
 garden and particularly on the summits of the walls. Each stand ex- 
 ploded at once ; and at one time the greater part of all the rockets 
 were in the air at the same moment, and produced an effect grand 
 beyond the powers of description. 
 
 At the end of this exhibition, a band of choice musicians and songsters 
 
 Q 
 
114 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 was introduced into the particular apartment where we were seated. 
 A player on the kamouncha really drew forth notes, which might have 
 done credit to the better instruments of the West: and the elastic man- 
 ner with which he passed his bow across the strings, convinced me that 
 he himself would have been an accomplished performer even among 
 those of Europe, if his ear had been tutored to the harmonies and deli- 
 cacies of our science. The notes of their guitar corresponded exactly 
 to those of our instrument. Another sung some of the odes of 
 Hafiz, accompanied by the kamouncha, and in a chorus by the 
 tamborins. 
 
 After this concert, some parts of which were extremely noisy and 
 some not unpleasant even to our ears, appeared from behind a curtain 
 a dirty-looking negro, dressed as a fakeer or beggar, with an artificial 
 hump, and with his face painted white. This character related facetious 
 stories, threw himself into droll attitudes, and sung humorous songs. 
 Amongst other things he was a mimic; and, when he undertook to ridi- 
 cule the inhabitants of Ispahan he put our Shiraz audience into ecsta- 
 cies of delight and laughter. He imitated the drawling manner of 
 speaking, and the sort of nonchalance so characteristic of the 
 Ispahaunees. The people of Shiraz, (who regard themselves as the 
 prime of Persians, and their language as the most pure, and their pro- 
 nunciation as the most correct), are never so well amused as Avhen the 
 people and the dialect of Ispahan are ridiculed. Those of Ispahan, on 
 the other hand, boast, and with much reason, of their superior clever- 
 ness and learning, though with these advantages indeed they are said 
 to mix roguery and low cunning. The exhibition finished by the sing- 
 ing of a boy, the most renowned of the vocal performers at Shiraz, 
 and one of the Prince's own band. His powers were great, descending 
 from the very highest to the very lowest notes ; and the tremulations of 
 his voice, in which the great acme of his art appeared to consist, were 
 continued so long and so violently, that his face was convulsed with 
 pain and exertion. In order to aid the modulations, he kept a piece of 
 paper in his hand, with which he did not cease to fan his mouth. When 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 115 
 
 the concert was over, we collected our legs under us (which till this 
 time we had kept extended at ease) to make room for the sofras or 
 table-cloths, which were now spread before us. On these were first 
 placed trays of sweet viands, light sugared cakes, and sherbet of various 
 descriptions. After these, dishes of plain rice were put, each before 
 two guests ; then pillaus, and after them a succession and variety, which 
 would have sufficed ten companies of our number. On a very moderate 
 calculation there were two hundred dishes, exclusive of the sherbets. 
 All these were served up in bowls and dishes of fine china; and in the 
 bowls of. sherbet were placed the long spoons made of pear-tree, (which 
 I mentioned on a former occasion), and each of which contained about 
 the measure of six common table-spoons, and with these every guest 
 helped himself. The Persians bent themselves down to the dishes, and 
 ate in general most heartily and indiscriminately of every thing sweet 
 and sour, meat and fish, fruit and vegetable. They are very fond of ice, 
 which they eat constantly, and in great quantities, a taste which becomes 
 almost necessary to qualify the sweetmeats which they devour so pro- 
 fusely. The Minister Nask O all ah Khan had a bowl of common 
 ice constantly before him, which he kept eating when the other dishes 
 were carried away. They are equally fond of spices, and of every other 
 stimulant ; and highly recommended one of their sherbets, a composi- 
 sition of sugar, cinnamon, and other strong ingredients. As the Envoy 
 sat next to the Minister, and I next to the Envoy, we very frequently 
 shared the marks of his peculiar attention and politeness, which con- 
 sisted in large handfuls of certain favourite dishes. These he tore off 
 by main strength, and put before us ; sometimes a full grasp of lamb 
 mixed with a sauce of prunes, pistachio-nuts, and raisins ; at another 
 time, a whole partridge disguised by a rich brown sauce ; and then, 
 with the same hand, he scooped out a bit of melon, which he gave into 
 our palms, or a great piece of omelette thickly swimming in fat ingre- 
 dients. The dishes lie promiscuously before the guests, who all eat 
 without any particular notice of one another. The silence, indeed, with 
 
 q2 
 
116 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 which the whole is transacted is one of the most agreeable circumstances 
 of a Persian feast. There is no rattle of plates and knives and forks, 
 no confusion of lacquies, no drinking of healths, no disturbance of 
 carving, scarcely a. word is spoken, and all are intent on the business 
 before them. Their feasts are soon over> and, although it appears dif- 
 ficult to collect such an immense number of dishes, and to take them 
 away again without much confusion and much time, yet all is so well regu- 
 lated that every thing disappears as if by magic. The lacquies bring the 
 dishes in long trays called conchas, which are discharged in order, and 
 which are again taken up and earned away with equal facility. When 
 the whole is cleared, and the cloths rolled up, ewers and basins are 
 brought in, and every one washes his hand and mouth. Until the water 
 is presented it is ridiculous enough to see the right hand of every per- 
 son (which is covered with the complicated fragments of all the dishes) 
 placed in a certain position over his left arm : there is a fashion even in 
 this. The whole entertainment was now over, and we took our leaves 
 and returned home Such a fete costs a very considerable sum. Be- 
 sides ourselves, all the Envoy's numerous servants, and all the privates 
 of his body guard were invited to it, and eat and drank in different 
 apartments. The same dinner which had been put before us was after- 
 wards carried to them, and I understand that, even in the common do- 
 mestic life of a Persian, the profusion which is exhibited on his table 
 surprises the European stranger; and is explained only by the necessity 
 of feeding his numerous household, to whom all his dishes are passed, 
 after he has satisfied his own appetite. 
 
 5th. As we were at dinner on the following day, one of the Prince's 
 own feroshes brought a dish composed of eggs, &c. made up into a 
 species of omelette, with two small bowls of sherbet, and a plate of 
 powdered spices, which he announced: j as a present from the Prince 
 himself. These sort of attentions are frequent between friends in 
 Persia, and, at the moment of dinner, it seems that the Prince, who is 
 particularly fond of the dish, was anxious that the Envoy also should 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 117 
 
 partake of it ; though at the time of receiving it, the Envoy suspected, 
 that it might have been the trick of some one who calculated on a more 
 valuable largess in return. 
 
 6th. A zeeafet or entertainment was given this evening to the 
 Envoy by Mirza Zaist Labadeen, Chief Secretary and Private 
 Minister to the Prince. This was so nearly a repetition of the 
 former display, that any description may well be spared. One thing 
 indeed may be remarked ; as soon as the Prime Minister came into the 
 room, he took the direction of the feast upon himself; and the master 
 of the house, the real donor, sunk into the character of a guest. This is 
 the case wherever the Minister goes, as he is supposed to be the master 
 of every thing, and to preside in every place, next after the Prince his 
 own immediate superior. 
 
 On the ?th, Jaffer Ati Khan, (the English Agent at Shirat) 
 Mr. Bruce and I, went by the Envoy s. order to. the Minister, to pro- 
 pose certain measures. We were introduced into the Bagfaa-VakeGl, a 
 garden belonging to the Prince, and situated contiguous to his palace 
 in the town. In the centre is a pleasure house called Koola-frangev, 
 (and built on the model of the one of the same name in the ]3agh~anJeh(m 
 Ncmah, on the outside of the city gates.) Here we conferred with the 
 Minister, and as, in quitting him, we were going out of the garden, we 
 chanced to meet the Prince himself, who asked us the common questions 
 of civility, and passed on. In the evening, the Prince invited the 
 Envoy to meet him on horseback at the Maidan, --and expressed a wish 
 to see the troop of cavalry go through some of its exercises and evolu- 
 tions. We accordingly proceeded, and, when we perceived the Prince* 
 we all dismounted from our horses for a moment, and when he waved 
 his hand, we all mounted again, and rode close up to him. His man- 
 ners and appearance were most elegant and prepossessing. He was 
 dressed most 'richly : his outer coat was of blue vd vet, which fitted 
 tight to his shape; on the shoulders, front pocket, and skirts, was W\ 
 embroidery of pearl, occasionally (in . the ^different terminations of a 
 point or angle,) enlivened with a ruby, an emerald, or a topaz. Under 
 
118 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 this was a waistcoat of pearl ; and here and there, hanging in a sort of 
 studied negligence, were strings of fine pearl. A dagger, at the head of 
 which blazed a large diamond, was in his girdle. The bridle of his 
 horse was inlaid in every part of the head with precious stones ; and a 
 large silver tassel hung under the jaws. The Prince was altogether a 
 very interesting figure. 
 
 Cornet Willock paraded his troop much to the Prince's satisfaction, 
 and in the interval his own men ran their horses up and down the 
 course, firing their muskets in various dextrous ways. Unfortunately 
 one of his cavaliers met with a very dangerous fall. 
 
 Ismael Beg, the young Georgian favourite, also shewed off his 
 horse. He carried the Prince's bow and arrows, which were placed on 
 each side of him, in quivers covered with black velvet and thickly 
 studded with pearls and precious stones. After this, the Prince ordered 
 his Russian prisoners, thirty in number, to draw up and go through 
 their exercise. These poor fellows, commanded by their ofHcer (who 
 goes by the name of Rooss Khan, or Russian Khan), went through every 
 thing that they could do, and even formed a hollow square. To all this 
 the Persians give the name of bazee or play. Nasr Oallah Khan, 
 the Minister, kept at a respectful distance, whilst the rest of the nobles 
 and chief men were stationed in a crowd much further off. The Prince 
 remained an isolated and unsocial being, never speaking but to com- 
 mand, never spoken to but to feel the servitude of others. 
 
 It is always the custom for the King and Princes to order their 
 visitors away, which they do, either by a nod of the head or a wave of 
 the hand. We received this kind of licence to depart, and returned to 
 town in the order in which we came out. 
 
 8th. The last and most splendid entertainment was given this even- 
 ing to the Envoy by our Mehmandar, Mahomed Zeky Khan. His 
 own house was not large enough to contain us and our numerous 
 attendants ; he received therefore the Prince's permission to give it in 
 that of Aga Besheer, the Queen's head Eunuch. The apartment, 
 into which we were introduced, was still more elegant than any which 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 119 
 
 we had jet seen, and if it could have been transported to England, 
 would probably have excited universal admiration, and a new taste in 
 the interior decoration of rooms. Like almost all the public rooms or 
 dezvan khonSh of a Persian house, it was in shape a parallelogram, with 
 a recess formed by a Saracenic arch, in the centre of the superior line 
 of the figure. The ground of the wall was of a beautiful varnished 
 white, and richly painted in gold in ornaments of the most neat and in- 
 genious composition. The entablature, if it may be so called, was 
 inlaid glass placed in angular and prismatic positions, which reflected 
 a variety of beautiful lights and colours. The ceiling was all of the 
 same composition. Tn the arrhed reress was a chimney piece formed 
 in front by alternate layers of glass and painting. The whole side 
 fronting the arch was composed of windows, the frames of which opened 
 from the ground ; and, though of clumsy workmanship compared with 
 frames in England, yet aided by the richness of the painted glass inter- 
 mixed with the gilding of the wood-work, they filled up the space splen- 
 didly and symmetrically. 
 
 This fete corresponded in all it parts with the others that I have 
 described ; except that there was a greater variety of entertainments. 
 Besides the rope-dancer, water-spouter, dancing boys, and fire-eater, we 
 had an exhibition of wrestlers, a combat of rams, and a sanguinary 
 scene of a lion killing an ox. The wrestling was opened by two dwarfs, 
 about three feet and a half in height: one with a beard descending 
 to his girdle, with deformed arms and hands, but with strong and mus- 
 cular legs. The other, with bad legs, but with regular and well shaped 
 arms. Both had the appearance of those animals represented in my- 
 thological pictures as satyrs, or perhaps of the Asmodeus of Le Sage. 
 The figure with the beard was the victor, and fairly tossed his antago- 
 nist into an adjoining basin of water. The professional wrestlers suc- 
 ceeded ; the hero of whom threw and discomfited eight others, in most 
 rapid succession. In this the combat of rams resembled that of the 
 wrestlers : one bold and superb ram, belonging to the Prince, remained 
 the undisputed master of the field, for although a great number of his 
 
120 
 
 SHIRAZ. 
 
 kind were brought to meet him, none dared to face him after tlve 
 first butt. 
 
 The scene of blood next begun. A poor solitary half-grown ox 'was 
 then produced, and had not long awaited his fate, when a young lion 
 was conducted before us by a man, who led him with a rope by the 
 neck. For some time he seated himself by the wall regardless of the 
 feast before him. At length, urged by the cries of his keepers, and by 
 the sight of the ox, which was taken close to him, he made a spring and 
 seized his victim on the back. The poor brute made some efforts to 
 get loose, but the lion kept fast hold, until he was dragged away by his 
 keepers. Both were again brought before, ns, when the ox fell under 
 a second attack of the lion. An order was at length given to cut the 
 throat of the ox, when the lion finished his repast by drinking heartily 
 of his blood. A very small cub of a lion, not larger than a water- 
 spaniel was carried out, and the vigour with which he attacked the ox, 
 was quite amusing. He fed upon him, after he was dead, with a relish 
 which showed how truly carniverous were his young propensities. 
 This bloody scene was pleasing to the Persian spectators in general, 
 .although I thought that I perceived some who sympathized ivith us for 
 the helplessness of the ox. 
 
 In the course of the morning the Prince's present to the Mission was 
 brought by Ismael Beg. It consisted of a sword and two horses to 
 the Envoy, and to each of the gentlemen kalaats, or dresses of gold 
 brocade, a sash, and a shawl. Our appearance, when we wore our 
 new dresses, which had not been made on purpose for us, was probably 
 very ridiculous. We put the rich brocade Persian vest over our 
 English clothes, having only taken off our coats : then wound the 
 brocade sash round our waists, and lastly, put our sliawls either over 
 our shoulders, or fastened them into our cocked hats. This, with our 
 red cloth stockings and green high-heeled shoes, completed the adjust- 
 ment, in which we appeared before the Prince. The morning of the 
 9th had been fixed for our parting visit ; dressed in these gifts with 
 which he had honoured us, we were introduced to the Prince in a room 
 
SHIRAZ. 
 
 121 
 
 called the private audience, in the Bagh-a-Vakeel. On walking through 
 the garden we met one of his brothers, a little fellow about six years 
 old, and who could just totter under the weight of the brocades, 
 furs, and shawls with which he was hugely encumbered. Several 
 Khans and men of consequence were standing before him, in the same 
 attitudes of respect and humility, as they did before his elder brother, 
 and attending to all his little orders and whims, with as much obsequi- 
 ousness, as they would have shewn to a full-grown sovereign. It was 
 singular that no notice was taken of an inadvertence which we com- 
 mitted : the dresses which we had received were honours to which a 
 Persian looks forward through his whole life ; but as they happened 
 to be extremely inconvenient to us, we threw them off as soon as we 
 left the Prince's presence. An Englishman just invested with an Order, 
 would hardly so throw off the ribband at the gate of St. James's. In 
 strictness, the kalaat of Persia should be worn three days, as we after- 
 wards learnt, when again we had received a similar distinction at 
 Teheran, and treated it with similar disrespect. 
 
 Before we left Shiraz, the merchants were all displeased with the 
 Envoy, for they had been accustomed in former missions to sell im- 
 mense quantities of their goods at exorbitant prices ; while now all 
 their offers were refused, as most of the presents which were given by 
 Sir Harford in our progress, were made in coin. The amount of 
 those presents indeed was not always satisfactory to the receivers. 
 
 H 
 
CHAP. VII. 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM SHIRAZ — ZERGOON — BEND-EMIR, THE ANCIENT 
 
 ARAXES PLAIN OF MERDASHT — TOMBS AND SCULPTURES OF 
 
 NAKSHI RUSTAM— FIRE-TEMPLES — PERSEPOLIS — GENERAL VIEW 
 OF THE WHOLE— —PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION; STAIRCASE; 
 PORTALS; HALL OF COLUMNS — SCULPTURES AT NAKSHI RADJAB 
 —POPULAR TRADITIONS. 
 
 AT eleven o'clock on the morning of the 13th, the Envoy recom- 
 menced his journey towards Teheran. The Prime Minister, and the 
 Chief Secretary, Mahomed Hassan Khan (the commander of the 
 Karaguzloo tribe), the Prince's Lord Chamberlain, and Mahomed 
 Zeky Khan, our former Mehmandar, with Abdulla Khan, who 
 had succeeded to that office pro tempore, accompanied us about the 
 distance of a mile from Tengui All Acbar, and then all took their 
 formal leave, except our late and present Mehmandars. 
 
 At the distance of a quarter of a mile beyond the gate of the pass 
 departing from Shiraz, one of the most compact of distant views pre- 
 sented itself. As we saw it from an eminence, the foreground was 
 formed by the two bold acclivities, (which close into the pass and are 
 connected by the gate), and the interval in the distance is rilled up by 
 
 
SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 123 
 
 part of Shiraz, the campagna and the mountains in the horizon. As 
 our tents and baggage were still considerably behind us, we stopt and 
 drank coffee at a hut, where is a reservoir of ice constructed by the 
 Prince on a plan which to us seemed simple and good. A deep trench 
 of about fifty paces in length, and fifteen in breadth, is cut into the 
 ground ; other dikes are cut transversely, which, as they fill with water, 
 are emptied into the reservoir. When this first layer of water is con- 
 gealed, another draught is made from the dikes, and thus the ice is ac- 
 cumulated. A wall is built the whole length of the reservoir to screen 
 the ice from the south wind which is here the hottest. We staid here 
 about two hours, in which time Captain Sutherland ascended the 
 highest point of the mountains to the west, and returned with the 
 most brilliant account of the view : Shiraz and its plain were at his 
 feet, the gardens and the whole delineation of the mountains and sur- 
 rounding lands, laid out as if on a map. 
 
 After we had quitted our late Mehmandars and their company, 
 and had been joined by their successor Mahomed Khan, we begun 
 to wind in the hills, and rode by the banks of the little stream of 
 Rocknabad, until we came to a station of Rahdars, which is called 
 Kalaat Poshoon, from its being the spot where the Prince puts on the 
 kalaats, with which the King is frequently pleased to honour him. 
 The country through which we passed, is hilly and open ; scarcely a 
 shrub enlivens the brown mountains, which here and there are varied 
 by the capriciousness of their stratification into forms as extravagant as 
 they are inhospitable. The source of the Rocknabad is about twelve 
 miles from Shiraz, into which its waters find their way, after meander- 
 ing in a variety of directions in their progress towards it. There was 
 nothing particularly interesting in the march of the day. Large flocks 
 of pigeons now and then flew over our heads, and the road here and 
 there was occasionally strewed with ruined castles and caravanserais* 
 which, though they bore a name, yet being uninhabited, are no longer 
 worthy to be marked in the topographical history of Persia. After we 
 had received the salute of a few miserable fusileers, had heard the reci- 
 
 r 2 
 
124 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 tative verses of one or two poor Mollahs, and had trampled over two 
 or three bottles of sugar-candy, we arrived at our encampment at 
 Zergoon. 
 
 Zergoon, when first seen, looks a respectable place : a mud wall sur- 
 rounds it ; but, as it was broken down in many places, it was not diffi- 
 cult to observe that the greater part of the houses within were mere 
 shells, and their inhabitants proportionally wretched. It is situated 
 close at the foot of a range of mountains at the southern extremity of 
 a small plain, which is of the finest soil, and towards the town not ill 
 cultivated. We calculated our march to have been thirteen miles from 
 our tents at the Bagh-a-V akeel at Shiraz, and on an average our route 
 lay North-East. 
 
 The night was interrupted by the disputes of the mule-drivers and 
 the bustle of feroshes. We quitted Zergoon at nine o'clock, and, at 
 the distance of about two miles, entered into the plain of the same 
 name (confounded with that of Merdasht) of a most delightful soil and 
 partially cultivated, which extends near fifteen miles East and West. 
 We proceeded three miles further, and crossing the river Bend-emir, 
 entered the real plain of Merdasht. The bridge is thrown over the 
 river immediately behind a projecting foot of the mountains; it is 
 called the Pool Khan, and has (besides two lesser arches, which in this 
 season were unoccupied by water) two principal arches, and another of 
 a second size, through which three the river runs. The Bend-emir is 
 the ancient Araxes, and runs in a general direction from North to 
 South : where we crossed it indeed, it was flowing from N. N. E. to S.W. 
 It does not fall into the sea at Cape Jasques, (now at least, as has been 
 said) though it still enters Kertnan. I am told that it goes to Corbal, 
 ten fursungs from Persepolis, a large place in the province of Kerman, 
 where its waters are received and kept up by a very considerable dam 
 called the Blind Emir, i. e. the Bund Emir Timoor, or the dam of 
 Tamerlane.* There are several Bunds at Corbal, and in the neigh- 
 
 * The Bend-emir or Araxes is said to fall into the large lake of Baktegian, near- 
 Darabgherd. R. 
 
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SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 125 
 
 bourhood, each raised by a King. In the bolook or district of Corbal, 
 there is a village called Sedeh Nokara Khoneh, about eight or nine 
 fursungs distant from Persepolis ; where, in the common story of Persia, 
 Jems heed kept his royal drums and trumpets: the noise of which, 
 when sounded there, reached his ears at Persepolis. According to the 
 reports, which we received from the people of the country, the whole 
 plain of Merdasht for many miles round is covered with interesting 
 monuments of antiquity, mostly taking their direction to the southward. 
 
 From the bridge to the extremity of the plain may be ten miles. At 
 two miles from our encampment, near the remains of Persepolis, we 
 turned to the left to visit the ruins and sculptures of Nakshi Rustam. 
 Although they appeared close to us, yet the great variety of the 
 streams (drains from the Bend-emir and another river) which have been 
 made to irrigate the country, obliged us to make a circuitous route of at 
 least four miles. 
 
 The tombs and sculptures at Nakshi Rustam are all contained in the 
 space of about two hundred yards, on the surface of steep and craggy 
 rocks, the fronts of which extend in a line from N. W. to S. E. On the 
 N. W. they terminate abruptly, and take an Eastward turn : and this 
 termination is marked by the shaft of a column six feet high, which 
 stands upon the eminence, and is of the very same stone as that on 
 which it rests ; though it has not been left in its present position by the 
 excavation of the adjacent parts, for I thrust a kunjur (a dagger) several 
 inches between it and the surface of the foundation rock ; in which 
 therefore there is obviously a socket to receive it. The top of the 
 rock (on which the sculptures at Nakshi Rustam are executed) is 
 levelled into a platform about twenty feet square: on this is an ele- 
 vated seat or throne; the ascent to which is by five steps, i. e. two 
 steps and a landing place, and then three more, I think however, that 
 I perceived the remains of another step to the landing place. The 
 throne itself is an oblong nine feet by six, and the whole rock is a fine 
 marble. 
 
 Nearly under this column is situated (see plate XV.) the first and 
 
126 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 most northern piece of sculpture. It consists of two figures on horse- 
 back, and a third on foot. Chardin's description of this, as well as 
 of the other monuments, is sufficiently satisfactory ; and I will therefore 
 only mention where I differ from him. He says, that the size of the 
 horses is suited to that of their riders : now to me they seem to be by 
 far too small in proportion ; and the best proof of this is, that the riders' 
 feet nearly touch the ground. What he calls bridles of chains of iron 
 did not strike us as such. The whole furniture of the. horses is admir- 
 ably preserved, and I have endeavoured to draw it with the most 
 scrupulous accuracy. The bridle of the horse on the right is exactly 
 the same as those of the horses at Shapour, with numerous knobs or 
 buckles on the head-stall : that of the horse on the left is of another 
 species of ornament, yet also with many straps and buckles! Both 
 have a remarkable strap or piece of iron which reaches from the horse's 
 forehead all down the front part of the face, covers the lips, and is 
 fastened behind near the opening of the cheeks. The breast-plate of 
 the horse on the right is composed of large round plates linked together : 
 that of the horse on the left is ornamented with lions' heads. The 
 man behind the figure on the left, holds (not an umbrella, osChardin 
 mentions, but) a fly-flap, which is common to almost all the principal 
 figures at Persepolis. Each of these horsemen trample on a body ; 
 that under the figure on the right is more correct and well preserved, 
 than the other to the left. A Greek inscription is engraved on the chest 
 of the first horse, composed of seven lines, the three first of which are 
 illegible. Then nearly close under these lines are some characters, 
 which are extremely effaced, but which I have endeavoured to copy 
 exactly. (See the inscriptions, plate XXIX.) They are evidently the 
 same as those which I saw at Shapour. On the breast of the opposite 
 horse there is also a small but very effaced inscription in the same 
 characters. 
 
 The sculpture next to this is composed of nine figures ; five on the 
 right side, and three on the left, of a personage at full length, who stands 
 in the centre, holding a sword before him with both hands, and bear- 
 
:\ 
 
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 5Ss 
 
 
SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 127 
 
 ing a globe on his head. The figures to the left are beckoning as it 
 were to the others on the right. There is besides another curious 
 figure at full length, behind the rock close to the sculpture, but still 
 making part of the same piece. 
 
 More in the centre of the whole extent of rock, and nearly under 
 the base of a tomb, is a very spirited piece of sculpture, representing 
 the combat of two horsemen, who are in the very shock of the engage- 
 ment. (Plate XVI.) The figure on the left (as the spectator fronts 
 them) has an immense crovvii with three balls on the top of three pyra- 
 midical points. Another ball of the same sort is on his right shoulder ; 
 and another on the summit of his horse's head. On the full stretch of 
 his horse he presents his lance, which is seen to pass through the throat 
 of his adversary. A quiver hangs by his side, and a sort of armour 
 covers his middle, and the back part of his horse. A figure behind 
 him, apparently his standard-bearer, holds a kind of ensign, which is 
 a staff crossed at the top and ornamented with five balls. The re- 
 mainder is admirably executed, and represents the other horse thrown 
 backwards on his haunches from the shock of the first cavalier's onset, 
 and the spear of his rider broken. The helmet, with which the second 
 horseman's head is crowned, is more Grecian, than any which I saw 
 among the ruins ; and the whole, though much effaced, is executed 
 with better proportions and effect than any of the others. 
 
 After this I was delighted and surprised to find an exact copy, 
 though in a gigantic scale, of the subject at Shapour, with one person in 
 a Roman dress on his knees before the horse's head, and another 
 whose hands are seized by the rider. Under the horse's belly is a long 
 Greek inscription, of which I could make out only a few characters. 
 There are, besides, other characters similar to those at Shapour, of which 
 the annexed is a specimen. (See plate XXIX.) 
 
 Next to this, is a sculpture containing three figures : the one in the 
 middle has a crown and globe on his head ; his right hand is extended 
 towards a female figure on his left, and they both grasp a ring. The 
 
128 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 third figure, which stands behind the male one in the middle, is defaced 
 and is apparently only an attendant. 
 
 Nearly adjoining, is a much mutilated representation of a combat 
 between two heroes on horseback. (Plate XVII.) The first, clad in 
 armour with a globe on his head, makes a desperate thrust with his 
 lance (his horse being at its greatest stretch) at the other figure, whose 
 horse is in the act of rearing, and who holds his lance, as if he were 
 preparing to receive his antagonist. The figure with a globe on his 
 head tramples a man under his horse's feet. 
 
 The tombs are four in number. Captain Sutherland with some 
 difficulty entered into the one farthest to the northward. A Persian 
 mounted first, and then let down a shawl ; by which, as by a rope, 
 Captain Sutherland helped himself up. A platform is cut into the 
 rock before the tomb, which he entered through a small door, and 
 found a chamber thirty-seven feet in length, and nine and a half in 
 height : facing him were three arched recesses, in which the bodies of 
 the deceased had probably been deposited. 
 
 In following the abrupt turn to the East, which the rock of the 
 sculptures takes, we come to two square fire-altars, situated on a pro- 
 jecting mass and placed upon one base. They are six feet in height, 
 and one side of the square is three feet. On the summit of each is a 
 square hole. Further on in the recess of the mountain, are twenty 
 holes or windows of different sizes, but all of the same pattern, with an 
 inscription over them. The characters, according to our observation, 
 differed from all that we found in any of the various remains which we 
 visited. Facing nearly the middle of the sculptured rocks, stands an 
 ancient fire- temple. It is a square building, one side of which measures 
 twenty-four feet. It is of white marble and of admirable masonry. 
 In front there is a door; open indeed only at the top, and which 
 appears to have been opened thus far by force, for all the lower stones 
 are mutilated. The inside exhibited signs of fire. On each side, ex- 
 cept that on which the door is placed, are four apertures : they seem to 
 

SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 129 
 
 have been scarcely intended to admit light ; as (at this day, at least) 
 they are each closely fitted with a stone. A small niche is over the door. 
 A cornice, enriched with dentils, passes around the summit; and in the 
 lines, where the stones have been fitted, oblong perpendicular incisions 
 are made at regular intervals. The people call it a pigeon-house. The 
 plain is covered with the wild liquorice ; and we plucked some of re- 
 freshing taste on the banks of a stream, which (about a mile from the 
 sculptures and tombs) turns a mill on the left of our encampment. We 
 started snipes and ducks from the Rood-Khon6h-Sewund, which runs 
 into the plain from the northward. 
 
 As we had still two hours of daylight before us, we rode to Perse* 
 polls, and took a cursory view of the ruins. Our first, and indeed 
 lasting impressions were astonishment at the immensity, and admira- 
 tion at the beauties of the fabric. Although there was no tiling, either 
 in the architecture of the buildings, or in the sculptures and reliefs on 
 the rocks, which could bear a critical comparison with the delicate pro- 
 portions and perfect statuary of the Greeks, yet, without trying Perse- 
 polls by a standard to which it never was amenable, we yielded at once 
 to emotions the most lively and the most enraptured. 
 
 At the distance of about five miles is a conspicuous hill, on the top 
 of which, and visible to the eye from Persepolis, are the remains of a 
 fortress. This hill is now called Istakhar, and is quite distinct from 
 Persepolis. Persepolis itself is commonly styled by the people of the 
 country " Takht Jemsheed" or the throne of Jem she ed : it is also 
 called " Chehel Miliar" or the Forty Pillars. Le Brun has given a 
 drawing of this hill of Istakhar ; and the original must strike every 
 traveller the moment he enters the plain of Merdasht, as it has all the 
 appearance of having been much fashioned by the hand of man. 
 
 Jan. 15th. After reading prayers to our society, I hastened to 
 the ruins. I went on this principle, that I would endeavour to 
 draw and ascertain all that former travellers had omitted; and for 
 that purpose I took Chardin and Le Brun in my hand, that 
 JL might complete all that I found wanting in their views and 
 
 s 
 
130 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOL1S. 
 
 notices. Finding, however, that they differed from each other (and 
 one of course therefore from the reality) in many essential points, 1 
 thought that an entire description of the ruins in their present state 
 would answer my purpose better than a partial and unconnected ac- 
 count, referring only to the mistakes or omissions of others. 
 
 The most striking feature, on a first approach, is the staircase and 
 its surrounding walls. Two grand flights, which face each other, lead 
 to the principal platform. To the right is an immense wall of the finest 
 masonry, and of the most massive stones : to the left are other walls 
 equally well built, but not so imposing. On arriving at the summit of 
 the staircase, the first objects, which present themselves directly facing 
 the platform, are four vast portals and two columns. Two portals first, 
 then the columns, and then two portals again. On the front of each 
 are represented in basso-relievo figures of animals, which, for want of a 
 better name, we have called sphinxes. The two sphinxes on the first 
 portals face outwardly, i. e. towards the plain and the front of the build- 
 ing. The two others, on the second portals, face inwardly, i. e. towards 
 the mountain. From the first (to the right, on a straight line) at the 
 distance of fifty-four paces, is a staircase of thirty steps, the sides of 
 which are ornamented with bas-reliefs, originally in three rows, but now 
 partly reduced by the accumulation of earth beneath, and by mutila- 
 tion above. This staircase leads to the principal compartment of the 
 whole ruins, which may be called a small plain, thickly studded with 
 columns, sixteen of which are now erect. Having crossed this plain, 
 on an eminence are numerous stupendous remains of frames, both of 
 windows and doors, formed by blocks of marble of sizes most magni- 
 ficent. These frames are ranged in a square, and indicate an apart- 
 ment the most royal that can be conceived. On each side of the frames 
 are sculptured figures, and the marble still retains a polish which, in its 
 original state, must have vied with the finest mirrors. On each corner 
 of this room are pedestals, of an elevation much more considerable 
 than the surrounding frames ; one is formed of a single block of marble. 
 The front of this apartment seems to have been to the S. W. for we 
 
SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 131 
 
 *aw few marks of masonry on that exposure, and observed, that the 
 base of that side of it was richly sculptured and ornamented. This 
 front opens upon a square platform, on which no building appears to 
 have been raised. But on the side opposite to the room which I have 
 just mentioned, there is the same appearance of a corresponding apart> 
 ment, although nothing but the bases of some small columns and the 
 square of its floor attest it to have been such. The interval between 
 these two rooms (on those angles which are the furthest distant from 
 the grand front of the building) is filled up by the base of a sculpture 
 similar to the bases of the two rooms ; excepting that the centre of it 
 is occupied by a small flight of steps. Behind, and contiguous to these 
 ruins, are the remains of another square room, surrounded on all it* 
 sides by frames of doors and windows. On the floor are the bases of 
 columns : from the order in which they appeared to me to have stood* 
 they formed six rows, each of six columns. A staircase cut into an 
 immense mass of rock (and from its small dimensions, probably the 
 escalier derobS of the palace) leads into the lesser and enclosed plain 
 below. Towards the plain are also three smaller rooms, or rather one 
 room and the bases of two closets. Every thing on this part of the 
 building indicates rooms of rest or retirement. 
 
 In the rear of the whole of these remains, are the beds of aqueducts 
 which are cut into the solid rock. They met us in every part of the 
 building ; and are probably therefore as extensive in their course, as 
 they are magnificent in construction. The great aqueduct is to be 
 discovered among a confused heap of stones, not far behind the build- 
 ings (which I have been describing) on this quarter of the palace, and 
 almost adjoining to a ruined staircase. We descended into its bed, 
 which in some places is cut ten feet into the rock. This bed leads East 
 and West ; to the Eastward its descent is rapid about twenty-five paces ; 
 it there narrows, so that we could only crawl through it ; and again it 
 enlarges, so that a man of common height may stand upright in it. It 
 terminates by an abrupt rock. 
 
 s 2 
 
132 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 Proceeding from this towards the mountains, (situated in the rear of 
 the great hall of columns) stand the remains of a magnificent room. 
 Here are still left walls, frames and porticoes, the sides of which are 
 thickly ornamented with bas-reliefs of a variety of compositions. This 
 hall is a perfect square. To the right of this, and further to the south- 
 ward are more fragments, the walls and component parts apparently of 
 another room. To the left of this, and therefore to the northward of 
 the building, are the remains of a portal, on which are to be traced the 
 features of a sphinx. Still towards the north, in a separate collection, 
 is the ruin of a column, which, from the fragments about it, must have 
 supported a sphinx. In a recess of the mountain to the northward, is 
 a portico. Almost in a line with the centre of the hall of columns, on 
 the surface of the mountain is a tomb. To the southward of that is 
 another, in like manner on the mountain's surface ; between both (and 
 just on that point where the ascent from the plain commences) is a re- 
 servoir of water. 
 
 These constitute the sum of the principal objects among the ruins of 
 Persepolis, some of which I will now endeavour to describe in more 
 detail. The grand staircase consists of a Northern and a Southern 
 ascent, which spring from the plain at the distance of forty-six feet from 
 each other. Each again is divided into two flights ; the first, termi- 
 nated by a magnificent platform, contains fifty-four steps on a base of 
 sixty-six feet six inches, measured from the first step to a perpendicular 
 dropt from the highest at the landing place : the second, to the extreme 
 summit of the whole, consists of forty-eight steps on a base of forty-six 
 feet eight inches. Each step is in breadth twenty-six feet six inehes, 
 and in height three inches and a half. So easy therefore is the ascent, 
 that the people of the country always mount it on horseback. The 
 platform, where the two grand divisions meet, is thirty-four feet from 
 the ground, and in length seventy. From the front of this platform to 
 the portals behind is likewise seventy feet. 
 
 The portals arc composed of immense oblong blocks of marble; 
 
Ns 
 
SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 133 
 
 their length is twenty-four feet six inches, breadth five feet, and distance 
 from one another thirteen feet. The two first are faced by sphinxes ; 
 the remaining parts of whose bodies are delineated in a basso-relievo on 
 the interior surface of the portal. In passing through these, the next 
 objects before the more distant portals are two columns, but (as 
 there is a sufficient space for two others, and as the symmetry would 
 be defective without such an arrangement) I presume that the original 
 structure was completed by four columns. The second portals corres- 
 pond in size with the former, but differ from them not only in present- 
 ing their fronts towards the mountain, but in the subject of the 
 sculptures with which they are adorned. The animals on the two 
 first portals are elevated on a base. From the contour of the mutila- 
 tion, the heads appear to have been similar to those of horses, and their 
 feet have hoofs ; on their legs and haunches the veins and muscles are 
 strongly marked. Their necks, chests, shoulders, and backs, are en- 
 crustated with ornaments of roses and beads. 
 
 The sphinxes on the second portals appear to have had human 
 heads, with crowned ornaments, under which are collected massive 
 curls, and other decorations of a head-dress, which seems to have 
 been a favourite fashion among the ancient Persians. Their wings are 
 worked with great art and labour, and extend from their shoulders to 
 the very summit of the wall. The intention of the sculptor is evidently, 
 that these figures (emblematical perhaps of power and strength) should 
 appear to bear on their backs the mass of the portico, including not 
 only the block immediately above each, but the covering also, which, 
 though now lost, certainly in the original state of the palace, connected 
 the two sides and roofed the entrance. In these, as in the first 
 portals, the faces of the animals form the fronts, and the bulk of their 
 bodies, (called forth to a certain extent by the basso-relievo on the 
 sides) is supposed to constitute the substance of the walls. 
 
 Under the carcase of the first sphinx on the right, are carved, 
 scratched, and painted the names of many travellers ; and amongst others 
 we discovered those of Le Brun, Mandeesloe, and ^TiEBum*, 
 
134 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 Niebu Hit's name is written in red chalk, and seems to have been 
 done but yesterday. 
 
 A square reservoir of water, broken in many places, yet still ap- 
 pearing to have been of one single block, was in the space, between 
 the portals and the staircase which led to the grand hall of columns. 
 The breadth of that staircase is fifteen feet four inches. It has two 
 corresponding flights, the front of which, though now much mutilated, 
 was originally highly carved and ornamented with figures in bass- 
 relief. The stones which support the terrace of the columns are all 
 carved in the same style, and are as perfect as when Le Brun made 
 his drawings. On comparing indeed his designs with the originals, I 
 found that he had given to some of the figures a mutilation which does 
 not exist ; for I discovered on a close inspection many interesting 
 details of dress, posture, and character, which are omitted in his 
 plates. One great defect pervades this part of his collection ; in order 
 to elucidate by the human form the comparative dimensions of the 
 buildings, he has introduced figures so small, that, measured by them 
 as a standard, the actual size of the objects represented would be three 
 times their real magnitude. In fact, a man who stands close to the 
 sculptured wall touches the summit with his chin, though the figures 
 in the drawings of Le Brun would not reach halfway. 
 
 Immediately on ascending this staircase, stands a single column, 
 but on closer observation I counted the bases (or spots at least where 
 once bases were) of eleven more columns of two rows ; forming, with 
 the first, six in each row. They are quite distinct from the great cluster 
 in the centre of the hall, and were therefore probably a grand en- 
 trance to it. 
 
 Passing forwards through this double range, we observed large blocks 
 of stone, placed at symmetrical distances (to correspond with the 
 arrangement of the columns at the entrance, and those in the centre), 
 and forming, probably, the bases of sphinxes or other colossal figures. 
 Having taken some pains to ascertain the real plan and the original 
 number of the columns in the great hall, I came to the following con- 
 
 urn 
 
SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 135 
 
 elusions: I observed, in the first place, that there were two orders of 
 columns, distinct in their capitals as well as in their height, and that, 
 of the highest, two rows were severally placed at the E. and W. extre- 
 mities of the hall. 
 
 Between these and the mass of columns of less height and a dif- 
 ferent capital is the space on either side of one row, in which, 
 however, no trace whatever of bases exists, and through which run 
 the channels of aqueducts. The remainder in the centre consists of 
 Six columns in front, and composes with the four exterior rows a 
 line of ten columns ; each row contains in depth six bases, forming, 
 with the twelve at the entrance, a grand total of seventy-two. On 
 drawing out a plan of this arrangement, I find that it is symmetrical in 
 all its points, and in every way in which I can view it satisfies my ima- 
 gination; but, on comparing it with that laid down by Niebuhr, 
 my own conceptions have accorded so exactly with those of that great 
 traveller on this, (as well as on the ichnography of the general remains) 
 that the introduction of my sketch becomes unnecessary. 
 
 On one of the highest columns is the remains of the sphinx, so com- 
 mon in all the ornaments at Persepolis ; and I could distinguish on the 
 summit of every one a something quite unconnected with the capitals. 
 The high columns have, strictly speaking, no capitals whatever, being 
 each a long shaft to the very summit, on which the sphinx rests. The 
 capitals of the lesser columns are of a complicated order, composed of 
 many pieces. I marked three distinct species of base. The shafts are 
 fluted in the Doric manner, but the flutes are more closely fitted toge- 
 ther. Their circumference is sixteen feet seven inches. Some of their 
 bases have a square plinth, the side of one of which I measured, and 
 found it to be seven feet ; the diameter of the base was five feet four 
 inches, diameter of columns four feet two inches, distance from centre 
 of base to the next centre twenty-eight feet. To the Eastward of one 
 of these, and close at the foot of one of the highest columns, are the 
 fragments of an immense figure. The head and part of the fore-legs I 
 could easily trace ; the head appeared to me more like that of a Uos 
 
136 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 than of any other animal, and the legs confirmed this supposition ; as 
 it has claws so placed, as to indicate that the posture of the figure was 
 couchant. 
 
 The grand collection of porticoes, walls, and other component parts 
 of a magnificent hall, are situated behind the columns, at the distance 
 perhaps of fifty paces, and are arranged in a square. 
 
 On the interior sides of the porticoes or door frames, are many 
 sculptured figures, which have been drawn with accuracy by Le 
 Brun. They represent the state and magnificence of a King, seated 
 in a high chair with his feet resting on a footstool. 
 
 To the north of these remains, is the frame of what was once a por- 
 tico, and where the outlines of a sphinx are to be traced among the 
 rude and stupendous masses of stone. Further on, nearly on the same 
 line and bearing, is the head of a horse, part of which is buried in the 
 ground. It is ornamented like the remains of that which we call the 
 sphinx on the great portals, and is certainly the horse's head, which 
 Le Brun drew, declaring that he could not discover the part to which 
 it had belonged. Close to it, however, are the remains of an immense 
 column, eight feet in diameter ; the different parts of the shaft have 
 fallen in a direct line with this head, and obviously formed with it one 
 connected piece in the original structure, in which probably the frag- 
 ment on the ground surmounted the capital, as the sphinx still crowns 
 some of the remaining columns. 
 
 In the time of Mandelsloe, (who visited Persepolis 27th January, 
 1638) the number of columns erect was nineteen : in a letter indeed 
 to Olearius, (written from Madagascar on the 12th of July, 1639, 
 and published by his correspondent) he states, that thirty remained ; 
 but, as he does not specify their position, he might have included those 
 lying on the ground, and at any rate he was writing a private letter, 
 from memory, in a distant country, at the interval of a year and a 
 half. His own authority therefore in his book is a better evidence of 
 the fact; and as he there omits another and much more curious 
 circumstance, which he had asserted in the same letter, the value of 
 
■ 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 137 
 
 that document becomes still more suspicious. Speaking of the cele- 
 brated inscriptions at Persepolis, he says, " on voit aussi plusieurs 
 " caracteres anciens mais fort bien marques, et conservant une partie 
 " de Tor, dont ils ont etc remplis." Sir Thomas Herbert also, how- 
 ever, mentions that the letters at Persepolis were gilt. 
 
 17th. On quitting Persepolis, I left our party in order to examine 
 a ruined building on the plains, which at a distance is generally pointed 
 out as a demolished caravanserai. I passed the stream of the Rood 
 KhonSh Sewund to the North, nearly where the road takes a N. E. 
 direction, and came to a fine mass of stone, thirty-seven feet four 
 inches square, which appears to have formed the base of some build- 
 ing. It is composed of two layers of marble blocks, the lower range 
 of which extends about two feet beyond the line of the upper. The 
 largest blocks, according to my measurement, are ten feet four 
 inches in length, four feet four in depth, and three feet four in breadth ; 
 all still retain a moulding, and traces here and there of masonry which 
 must have connected them with others. The whole building is filled 
 up in the middle by a black marble, and in its N. E. angle one stone 
 is raised higher than the rest. In the same angle, is a channel cut, as 
 if something had been fitted into it. I took the following bearings : 
 foot of the rocks of Nakshi Rusta?n, N. 10 W. two miles ; foot of 
 the mountain of Persepolis, S. two miles : our encampment S. 20 W. 
 two miles; road to Ispahan, N. 80 E. 
 
 I was called from this spot by a Chatter sent by the Envoy to 
 conduct me to some sculptures, which he had himself seen, (about 
 four miles from the place on the same mountain of Persepolis,) by the 
 side of the road to Ispahan. I found them indeed worthy of the 
 minutest investigation, as no preceding traveller has described them 
 with any sufficient accuracy. They are situated in a recess of the 
 mountain, formed by projecting and picturesque rocks. The sculpture 
 facing the road is composed of seven colossal figures and two small 
 ones. (Plate XIX.) The two principal characters are placed in the 
 centre ; the one to the left is the same (not in position indeed, but in 
 
 T 
 
138 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 general circumstance) as that which we had so often seen represented 
 at Shapour and Nakshi Rustam. He has the distinguishing globe on 
 his head, and offers a ring to the opposite figure ; who, seizing it with 
 his right hand, holds a staff or club in his left. Behind the personage 
 with the globe, are two figures, one of whom, with a young and 
 pleasing face holds the fan, the customary ensign of dignity : and the 
 other, with hard and marked features, and a beard, rests on the pom- 
 mel of his sword with one hand, and beckons with the other. Behind 
 the chief on the right, are two figures, which from the feminine 
 cast of their countenances appear to be women ; one wears an 
 extraordinary cap, and the other, whose hair falls in ringlets on 
 her shoulders, makes an expressive motion with her right hand, as if 
 she were saying, " Be silent." Between the two principal figures, are 
 introduced two very diminished beings, who do not reach higher than 
 the knees of their colossal companions. In dress they differ mate- 
 rially from each other, and one holds a long staff. To the left, on 
 a fragment of the rock, is the bust of a figure, who also holds his 
 hand in a beckoning and significant posture. The largest of these 
 figures I reckoned to be ten feet in height ; the small ones two feet 
 eight inches. The whole of this is so much disfigured, that it is diffi- 
 cult to ascertain its various and singular details. 
 
 In the same recess, and to the left of this sculptured rock, forming 
 an angle with it, is another monument in a much higher state of 
 preservation ; parts of it indeed have suffered so little, that they appear 
 to be fresh at this day from the chissel. (Plate XX.) The same 
 royal personage, so often represented with a globe on his head, 
 and seated on horseback, here forms the principal character of the 
 groupe. His face, indeed, has been completely destroyed by the 
 Mahomedans, but the ornaments of his person and those of his 
 horse, (more profusely bestowed on both, than on any of the similar 
 figures which we had seen) are likewise more accurately preserved. 
 They merit a particular description ; because as the composition was 
 probably designed to represent the King in his greatest state, every part 
 
 
N£ 
 
 FN 
 
 
SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 139 
 
 of his dress is distinctly delineated. I assign this subject to the sculp- 
 ture, because no other personage of rival dignity appears in the piece ; 
 and because the attitude of the chief announces parade and command ; 
 for he presents a full face to the spectator, and his right hand, though 
 now much mutilated, still rests on his side to indicate his ease and hi& 
 independence. Nine figures, of which the first is nine feet high, wait 
 behind him ; and, from the marks of respect in which they stand, can 
 be attendants only on his grandeur. On each side of his head swells 
 an immense circumference of curls ; he wears an embossed necklace, 
 which falls low on his breast, and is therefore, perhaps, rather the upper 
 termination of his garment ; but its counterpart, an ornament of the 
 same description round the waist, is certainly a girdle. His cloak is 
 fastened on his left breast by two massive clasps. A rich belt is car- 
 ried from his right shoulder to his left hip, across an under garment, 
 which, from the extreme delicacy of its folds, appears to be formed of 
 a very fine cloth or muslin. The drapery of some loose trowsers, 
 which cover his legs down to the very ancles, displays equal delicacy, 
 and is probably, therefore, of the same texture. From the ancles a 
 sort of bandage extends itself in flowing folds, and adds a rich finish 
 to the whole. On the thigh there appears to hang a dagger. The horse 
 is splendidly accoutred with chains of a circular ornament : his length, 
 from the breast to the tail, is seven feet two inches ; and on the chest is 
 a Greek inscription, of which the letters are about an inch in height, 
 and correspond in form with those of the latter empire. 
 
 Opposite to this sculpture, in the same recess and on the right of the 
 first, is another, containing the same two figures on horseback, holding 
 a ring, which we had seen at Shapour and at Nakshi Rustam. On the 
 general merit of these remains, I may say, that they are superior to 
 those at Nakshi Rustam, and equal to those at Shapour. 
 
 When I had sketched these monuments, and completed my observa- 
 tions, I hastened to join my party, who were then considerably ad- 
 vanced. A man who filled some station about the camp joined me. 
 
 t 2 
 
140 
 
 SHIRAZ TO PERSEPOLIS. 
 
 He asked my opinion on the probable design of these sculptures, and 
 when I had told him my own conceptions, he assured me, that the 
 royal personage here also was Rust am ; and when I reminded him that 
 their own traditional King, Jemsheed, might possibly be the hero, 
 he replied in the true spirit of a system, " Jemsheed was but the 
 " slave of Rust am." Of the figures grasping the ring, one again 
 (according to the same theory) was Rust am, in the act of proving his 
 strength, by wrenching it from the other's hand. 
 
CHAP. VIII. 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 
 JEMSHEED S HAREM — PASS THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS — MESJED 
 MADRE SULEIMAN; DOUBTS ON THE TOMB OF CYRUS — MOORGH- 
 
 AUB — DIFFICULTIES OF THE PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA STORM 
 
 LETTER FROM THE KING CASTLE OF BAHRAM RUINED 
 
 VILLAGES OVER THE COUNTRY — YEZDIKHaUST — CARAVANSERAI 
 
 AT MAXHOUD BEGGY KOMESHAHJ RUINS THE ENVOY AND THE 
 
 GOVERNOR MAYAR; CARAVANSERAI QUARRELS BETWEEN 
 
 THE PEOPLE OF IRAK AND FARS. 
 
 Jan. 17. -AS we were quitting the environs of Persepolis, and pro- 
 ceeding towards Ispahan, we saw on an eminence on the left of the 
 road (which now bore north-westerly) a single column erect, and some 
 fragments of stones and masonry adjoining. They were situated in 
 the centre of an extensive spot, which, from the configuration of the 
 land around, in elevated terraces and mounds, appeared an artificial 
 enclosure: and, as my Persian companion hinted, might be the site of 
 a fortification or a castle. The wall, indeed, in many parts could be 
 traced on the summit of the mounds. On arriving at the ruins, I dis- 
 covered them to consist of a solitary pillar, with a double-headed 
 sphinx for its capital, besides, strewed on the ground, a great quantity 
 
142 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 of shafts, bases, and capitals of the same dimensions as the upright 
 column, and all, together with it, of the same description as those at 
 Persepolis. Several large blocks are arranged about, as the fragments 
 of some building. The column is fluted like the Doric, but with lines 
 more closely connected : it is one foot eight inches in diameter at the 
 bottom, and six inches less at the top: the height is a little above 
 seventeen feet ; and the base, including a tore next the shaft, is two 
 feet more. The legs and bodies of the sphinxes are in two separate 
 blocks. The largest of the adjacent blocks erect is seven feet two inches 
 broad, and eleven feet eight inches high. Nakshi Rust am bore N. 50. 
 W. from this place. A little further on is the ruin of a large pillar not 
 fluted, and the fragments of a sphinx which certainly had been the 
 capital. These remains, according to my companion's tradition, were 
 the site of Jemsheed's harem. 
 
 We returned to the road which led through a dilapidated but massy 
 gate, situated at the extremity of the projecting foot of the mountains. 
 In the centre of the road are three stones ; that in the middle is a broken 
 column, and the two between which it stands are of a columnar form. 
 It has, probably, been a beautiful object. The rocks to the left (a 
 marble of the same kind as that at Nakshi Rustam) bear evident marks 
 of having been worked and excavated. The road led us over a soil, as 
 fine as that of the plain of Merdasht, watered by the Rood Kho?i6h 
 Sewund. Having reached the extremity of that range, on the Western 
 point of which are the sculptures of Nakshi Rustam, we turned to the 
 left at a village called Seidoun. At the foot of an abrupt part of the 
 mountain on the right, but still at a considerable ascent from the plain, 
 is situated the village of Sewund. Our encampment was below, near 
 the banks of the stream of that name. The snipes, ducks, herons, 
 and bitterns from these quarters made an admirable addition to the 
 luxury of our table. The march of this day was called three fur- 
 sungs, which we computed at thirteen miles. 
 
 18th. We continued our journey along the banks with a North wind 
 fresh in our faces, and crossed the river about half a mile from our 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 143 
 
 encampment. We then turned an abrupt promontory of the high 
 land on the right, and, for the remainder of the march, travelled 
 nearly due East, between mountains whose brown and arid sides pre- 
 sented nothing to cheer or enliven the way. As we approached 
 Kemeen (a distance of fifteen miles from Sewund) we were greeted by 
 all the inhabitants of the village, who exhausted their whole ingenuity 
 to do honour to the Envoy. They fired frequent vollies, created an 
 immense dust, broke vases of sugar, beat drums, blew trumpets, and 
 themselves made loud and shrill shrieks. In return for all this, hand- 
 fuls of money were thrown among them. Among the many per- 
 formers was a lad who preceded us, twirling a stick about with great 
 agility between his fingers ; in this exercise he persevered so intently, 
 regardless of all the pressure of the animals and the crowd, that at 
 length the nose of the Envoy's horse received the full force of his art. 
 The Derveish of the Hqfizeea overtook us here to ask the present which 
 had been promised to him. As he had been empowered to receive it at 
 Shiraz, the Envoy conceived that his errand was a fraud, and dis- 
 missed him therefore, paying his expences back, with an order for the 
 sum if it should not have been already paid. 
 
 19th. An easterly breeze, which sprung up this morning, rendered 
 it extremely cold, and depressed the thermometer to 30°. We travelled 
 between the bases of two abrupt chains of mountains, for about two 
 miles against the wind; when we took a sudden direction to the 
 North, in which we continued generally until we came to Moorgh-aub, 
 a distance of fourteen miles, according to our reckoning. The pass 
 through the mountains, in a military point of view, presents most 
 admirable means of impeding the progress of an enemy. At the 
 distance of two miles from Moorgh-aub, I turned on the left from the 
 poad, to examine some ruins which I had noticed. Proceeding over 
 the ploughed fields, which nearly overspread the whole of tliis plain, I 
 came to the bed of a river lying in a North and South direction, and on 
 its banks a village called Meshed Omoun. There is here a fort, and a 
 few low houses, in. which females only were left, as all the men liad 
 
144 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 gone out to greet the Envoy, by the discharge of their matchlocks* 
 About a mile further are situated the collective ruins, called by the 
 people of the country Mesjid MadrS Suleiman, the tomb of the mother 
 of Solomon. The first object is a pillar erect, a plain shaft without a 
 capital ten feet five inches in circumference. Near it are three pilasters, 
 the fronts of which are excavated in deep niches, and the sides 
 inscribed with the following characters. (See plate XXIX.) From the 
 pieces of masonry around, the pilasters appeared to have enclosed a 
 hall ; the interior of which was decorated with columns, but I resigned 
 the hope of ascertaining the plan of its original form, when I saw two 
 similar masses ; one, at the distance of one hundred and fifty yards, 
 with a corresponding inscription ; and the intermediate space (and 
 indeed the whole plain) strewed with the fragments of marbles. 
 
 Having sketched these objects, I continued my way along the plain 
 to the West, towards two buildings; which, at a distance indeed, ap- 
 peared scarcely worthy of notice, but which on a nearer inspection 
 proved full of interest. The first is a ruined building of Mahomedan 
 construction, which is now turned into a caravanserai. The door was 
 once arched, and on the architrave are the remains of a fine Arabic 
 inscription. 
 
 The other is a building of a form so extraordinary that the people 
 of the country often call it the court of the deevis or devil. It rests 
 upon a square base of large blocks of marble, which rise in seven 
 layers pyramidically. It is in form a parallelogram ; the lowest range 
 of the foundation is forty-three by thirty-seven feet ; and the edifice 
 itself, which crowns the summit, diminishes to twenty-one by sixteen 
 feet five inches. It is covered by a shelving roof built of the same 
 massy stone as its base and sides, which are all fixed together by 
 clamps of iron, and which on a general view correspond all with the 
 measure of one at the base, (fourteen feet eight inches in length, five 
 feet in depth, and three feet six inches in breadth.) I was not suffered 
 to enter ; and through a fissure in the door I could perceive nothing 
 within but a small chamber blackened as it appeared by smoke. 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 145 
 
 Around it, besides a great profusion of broken marbles, are the shafts 
 of fourteen columns, once perhaps a colonnade, but now arranged in the 
 square wall of mud which surrounds the whole remains. To the 
 present day all the space within the enclosure is a place of burial, and 
 is covered indeed with modern tomb-stones. On every part of the 
 monument itself are carved inscriptions, which attest the reverence of 
 its visitors ; but there is no vestige of any of the characters of ancient 
 Persia or even of the older Arabic. The key is kept by women, and 
 none but females are permitted to enter. The people generally regard 
 it as the monument of the mother of Solomon, and still connect some 
 efficacy with the name ; for they point out near the spot a certain 
 water to which those who may have received the bite of a mad dog 
 resort, and by which, if drank within thirty days, the evil effects of the 
 wound are obviated. In eastern story almost every thing wonderful is 
 attached to the Solomon of Scripture: the King however, to whose 
 mother this tomb is said to be raised, is less incredibly, (as the Carme- 
 lites of Shiraz suggested to Mandelsloe,) Shah Soleiman, the 
 fourteenth Caliph of the race of All But though this supposition is 
 more probable than that it is the monument of Bathsheba, it is not 
 to my mind satisfactory, as it differs totally from all the tombs of 
 Mahomedan saints which I have ever seen in Persia, Asia Minor, 
 or Turkey. [Plate XXL] 
 
 If the position of the place had corresponded with the site of 
 Passagardce as well as the form of this structure accords with the 
 description of the tomb of Cyrus near that city, I should have been 
 tempted to assign to the present building so illustrious an origin. That 
 tomb was raised in a grove ; it was a small edifice covered with an 
 arched roof of stone, and its entrance was so narrow that the slenderest 
 man could scarcely pass through : it rested on a quadrangular base of 
 a single stone, and contained the celebrated inscription, " mortals, 
 "I am Cyrus, son of Cambyses, founder of the Persian monarchy, 
 " and Sovereign of Asia, grudge me not therefore this monument" 
 
 u 
 
146 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 That the plain around Mesjed Madre Suleiman was the site of a great 
 city, is proved by the ruins with which it is strewed ; and that this 
 city was of the same general antiquity as Persepolis may be inferred 
 from the existence of a similar character in the inscriptions on the 
 remains of both, though this particular edifice does not happen to 
 display that internal evidence of a contemporaneous date. A grove 
 would naturally have disappeared in modern Persia; the structures 
 correspond in size ; the triangular roof of that which I visited might be 
 called arched in an age when the true semi-circular arch was probably 
 unknown ; the door was so narrow, that, if I had been allowed to 
 make the attempt, I could scarcely have forced myself through it ; and 
 those who kept the key affirmed that the only object within was an 
 immense stone, which might be " the base of a single piece" described 
 by Are i an ; but as he was repeating the account of another, the 
 difference is of little consequence, if it exists. I suspect however, as 
 many of the buildings at Persepolis are so put together that they might 
 once have seemed one vast block, that the present structure might 
 also at one time have possessed a similar appearance. The eternity 
 of his monument indeed, which Cyrus contemplated by fixing it on 
 one enormous stone, would be equally attained by the construction of 
 this fabric, which seems destined to survive the revolutions of ages. 
 And in the lapse of two thousand four hundred years, the absence of 
 an inscription on Mesjed Madre Suleiman would not be a decisive 
 evidence against its identity with the tomb of Cyrtis. 
 
 I retraced my steps towards the column and pilasters, and passing to 
 the left of them, proceeded to a ruin, probably of one of those buildings 
 which we call fire-temples, and corresponding at least exactly in 
 dimensions, structure, and ornament with that at Nakshi Rustam. Its 
 door opened to the north. On an adjacent hill to the east, at the dist- 
 ance of about three hundred yards, are the remains of a fort erected 
 with the same stupendous materials, as the works on the plain. The 
 blocks are all of white marble, and bear the finest polish. From this 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 147 
 
 height our encampment at Moorgh-aub bore N. 55 E. Having 
 descended again into the plain, crossed the beds of numerous Kanauts, 
 and started several covies of partridges ; I reached my tent highly con- 
 tented with the unexpected gleanings of the day. 
 
 Moorgh-aub is a large village, in which there is a fort and many en- 
 closed gardens ; and near it are springs of fine water which irrigate the 
 whole plain. 
 
 20th. Continuing our road to the N. we passed over a country of 
 ascents and descents, which can hardly be dignified by the denomi- 
 nation of mountains. The different bearings of the road were N. 50 W., 
 then N., then E., then N. E., until we quitted the hills, when the road 
 took a northerly direction, which we kept with some trifling variations 
 for the remainder of our stage. At about nine miles from Moorgh-aub, 
 we arrived at a caravanserai now almost ruined, called from the village 
 which once stood in its neighbourhood, Khoneh Kergaun. Near it a 
 river runs to the west, and over it is a bridge of three arches. We 
 arrived at Deibeed at four o'clock, after having travelled a distance of 
 twenty-five miles. We were seven hours and a half on the road, and 
 we generally calculate our rate of going at little more than three miles 
 in the hour. The country, through which we passed, was naked and 
 arid; the plain only was cultivated, and that partially. It is quite 
 destitute of wood, an article which, of all our necessaries, was collected 
 with the greatest difficulty. On the summits of the mountains, parti- 
 cularly on their northern aspects, were thin patches of snow, and some 
 were scattered even near our encampment. Deibeed is only a caravan- 
 serai ; close to it is an artificial mound of earth, covered with the 
 foundations of a building, which, from the light brick of its construction, 
 appeared to us a modern work. 
 
 The evening set in gloomily ; Deibeed is considered the coldest spot 
 in this region, and the snows in the winter have sometimes impeded 
 the progress of travellers for forty days together. The Mehmandar 
 looked at the sky with apprehension ; and the Governor of Moorgh- 
 
 9. 
 
148 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 aub, (Aga Khan, an Arab of an old and respected family, who had 
 accompanied us to the bounds of his district to provide amply for our 
 passage) shared his forebodings. He had himself often experienced 
 the severities of this country, and he, better than any one, knew the 
 distresses which the detention of two or three hundred men in a spot 
 so destitute and insulated would occasion. He had provided susten- 
 ance for ourselves and our cattle for one night only, and this he had 
 transported with great trouble from Moorgh-aub and other villages. 
 Indeed through the whole of our march great and early were the pre- 
 parations made by the chiefs of the country for our reception. If 
 these were the difficulties of our passage, the march of an army would 
 not be easily conducted. The country in its present state could not 
 complete magazines of provisions, even if it were required by its own 
 government. It must however be always recollected, that this is the 
 least fertile province of the kingdom. 
 
 21st. The snow did not fall, and we proceeded ; we travelled nearly 
 north during the whole of this day, and at the termination of our 
 march (a distance of fourteen miles) entered a pass, which is more 
 particularly dreaded as a stoppage in snows. We rested for the night 
 at Khona KhorrSh, a poor caravanserai now, but once, by the appear- 
 ance of its walls, a respectable building. We had here much cause to 
 regret the pleasant and copious streams of Moorgh-aub ; for the water 
 which supplied our camp was taken from a pond twenty feet in circum- 
 ference, so impregnated by the ordure of camels that it appeared quite 
 black. After sun-set, a fresh breeze sprung up from the S. W. It in- 
 creased in the night ; and at about two in the morning blew a furious 
 gale. 
 
 Sunday the 22d. The wind continued to rage during the whole of 
 this day, and only fell at night. Heavy clouds from the S. W. over- 
 topped the whole of the surrounding mountains and precipitated them- 
 selves down their sides, in the manner of the clouds at the Table 
 Mountain at the Cape, when it blows from the S. E. Many of our 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 149 
 
 tents were blown down and much damaged. Notwithstanding the 
 fury of the tempest we did not omit to put up our prayers and thanks- 
 givings for all the blessings bestowed upon us ; and the storm around , 
 only added, I hope, to the solemnity of our devotion. The very fine 
 weather with which we have been blessed was certainly a theme of gra- 
 titude. We had not had even a shower since our first departure from 
 Bushire ; and the oldest inhabitants of this part of the country utter 
 constant ejaculations of astonishment at the extreme moderation of 
 the season, which they are pleased to attribute to the good luck 
 of the Envoy. 
 
 Mirza Abool Hassan, a Persian of much influence at court, ar- 
 rived in the course of the day from Teheran, and was the bearer of a 
 letter from the King to the Envoy. This letter was nearly to the same 
 effect as the first, giving details of the victory over the Russians. We 
 went forward to meet it as before, and adopted the former ceremony 
 of giving it a solemn reading. 
 
 23d. Although the violence of the wind had fallen in the morning, 
 very heavy clouds still covered the summits of the mountains, and 
 threatened a renewal of bad weather. We proceeded, however, on a 
 fine hard road (on the bearing of N. 40 W. during the whole march) 
 and arrived in safety at Surmek in five hours and forty minutes after 
 our departure from Khona KhorrSh. The people of the country 
 reckon this day's journey at six long furmngs, though to us it ap- 
 peared a smaller distance. The Persian fur sung is indeed so indeter- 
 minate a measure, that no calculation can be safely formed from it, 
 and no man can give a satisfactory account of its real length. On the 
 whole, we found that the reputed distances in the line of our march 
 are rather over-calculated than under-rated. The road leads on the 
 right of a plain which widens at its northern termination. The moun- 
 tains on both sides of it run N. and S. taking indee ] a transverse E. 
 and W. direction at both its extremities ; and beyond the first range on 
 the west of the route is another, and a parallel chain of much greater 
 
150 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 elevation, which binds an intermediate plain. The peasantry are ill 
 clothed, and look miserably. They wear in general a little skull cap, 
 slit on each side, called Dogoosheh. Their dress is a loose coat with 
 hanging sleeves of a very rude cloth, tied about with a coarse sash. 
 Sumek, where we encamped for the night, is situated on the E. side 
 of the plain, near the foot of the mountains. It now consists of a 
 square mud fort, which contains its whole population; around it 
 are the ruins of its original extent. Between the town and the 
 mountains the cultivation is very luxuriant, for the fields are irri- 
 gated by kanaats from a neighbouring stream. To the northward of 
 the fort, and two hundred yards from the road, stand the remains 
 of a castle, which the Persians assign to the age of King Bah ram, 
 but which, in construction, resembles so nearly the later buildings of the 
 country, that its antiquity becomes suspicious. It is nevertheless in 
 itself a most curious work. A ditch surrounds it, and there is a wall 
 within it, composed, like the outward parts of the fabric, of large stones 
 cemented together by mud. The great variety of vaulted chambers 
 and subterraneous inlets, proves that it was destined for other purposes 
 than those of military defence only. 
 
 On the 24th re resumed our march, on a road as hard and fine as 
 that of the preceding day, and on the same bearing ; and having tra- 
 velled in four hours a distance probably of twelve miles, reached our 
 encampment at AbadSh. We noticed many square forts, which are 
 now generally not only the protection of the district, but the residence 
 of the cultivators. The ruins indeed, which overspread the country, 
 contrast its former prosperity too forcibly with the present depopula- 
 tion. In this region, however, the more immediate causes of its devas- 
 tation have ceased ; for it owed its principal sufferings to the long wars, 
 of which it was the scene, between the Zand and Cadjar families, and 
 which are now terminated by the fortune of the latter. On our arrival 
 at Abadeh, we were saluted as usual by the istakball, who went through 
 all their noise and firing. The first appearance of Abadeh announces 
 
 m 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 151 
 
 a large place ; but on a nearer inspection the town exhibits only a great 
 extent of ruined walls without inhabitants. The present population is 
 all enclosed within a square fort, the walls, indeed, of which were 
 crowded by women, whose white veils made them conspicuous objects 
 even at a distance. The fort itself is defended by a turret at each 
 angle, and three in each of the intervening sides. I walked into it to 
 look at a bath, the most respectable building in the place; for the rest 
 consists only of miserable walls of mud or brick. Yet in the rudest 
 wall we found a well-formed arch, which the want of timber has taught 
 the people to construct, and the same necessity has forced the same 
 lesson on other parts of the country. 
 
 The property and jurisdiction of Abadeh, Surmek, and Shoolgistoon, 
 with their intervening territories, belong by purchase to one man. Yet 
 the scarcity of water in the district must render it an unprofitable 
 estate. Abadih, however, is surrounded by gardens, from which some 
 very good fruit is sent to Shiraz ; but the irrigation is all carried by 
 artificial kanauts. 
 
 25th. The clouds which, on the preceding day, had sprinkled a few 
 flakes of snow on our tract, and had threatened a heavy fall, rolled off 
 before day-break, and opened to us one of the most bulliant mornings 
 in nature. The mountains were no longer concealed from our view ; 
 the snow, indeed, covered their summits, and impregnated every blast 
 of wind with a piercing but invigorating freshness. We proceeded 
 along the same plain, on a bearing which averaged N. 29 W. The high 
 lands on each side, now advancing, now receding from us, continued 
 their N. and S. direction; and, where the snow had not covered their 
 surfaces, presented that hard and forbidding aspect which indicated the 
 minerals below.* The soil on the plain still was gravel lightly mixed 
 
 the rest entire, 
 
 Shone with a glossy scurf, undoubted sign, 
 
 That in his womb was hid metallic ore 
 
 The work of sulphur. Par. Lost. I. 670. 
 
152 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 with earth, producing nothing but thistles and soap-wort. Indeed, if it 
 were a finer mould, the want of water would render it of little value 
 even to the most skilful possessor. At the distance of three miles from 
 a village called Bagkwardar we halted ; and I took a meridional obser- 
 vation of the sun, which gave us a latitude of thirty-one degrees twenty- 
 five minutes. We reckoned eight miles from AbadSh to this spot, and 
 nine more to Shoolgistoon, the termination of the day's march. Whilst 
 we were waiting until the sun should pass the meridian, one of our 
 party picked up the stump of a thistle, and on examining its inside, we 
 found two torpid wasps, which had formed their recess there, waiting 
 the approach of spring once again to issue into life. 
 
 The little fort, mosque, and caravanserai at Shoolgistoon are seen at 
 least six miles before they are reached. The plain to the northward of 
 our route was bounded by a flat horizon, from which every successive 
 mountain or building rose, as we advanced, like objects when first seen 
 at sea. 
 
 26th. The night was boisterous, the wind blew strong from the south- 
 ward and westward, and distant thunder rolled over the hills. The 
 morning presented a dark and dismal array of clouds and snow-clad 
 mountains all around us ; and when the trumpet sounded for the Envoy's 
 departure, every thing announced a cold and cheerless ride. The sun 
 made several efforts to break through the heavy atmosphere, and suc- 
 ceeded once or twice, only to cast faint shadows of our troops across 
 the road as we paced along; and, when we were about four miles from 
 our destined encampment at Yezdikhaust, the rain begun to fall. We 
 travelled a distance of fifteen miles in five hours. The road was still 
 carried over a gravel soil, till about two miles from Yezdihhaust, when 
 we entered a softer ground. The mountains gradually dwindled into 
 hills, and seemed to form a termination to this long plain by throwing 
 themselves in lessening forms across it. They continued, like those of 
 our latter route, barren, brown and inhospitable, without a shrub to en- 
 liven their rugged masses. On the left of the plain, all were covered 
 with snow, while all to the right were as yet untouched. 
 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 153 
 
 We could perceive the town of Yezdikhaust a long time before we 
 reached it, and supposed, therefore, that it was situated at the foot of 
 the eastern hills, on the same plain as that on which we were travelling. 
 Our surprise then was, of course, excited to find ourselves on a sudden 
 stopt by a precipice in our route. From its brow we overlooked a 
 small plain beautifully watered by a variety of streams, and parcelled 
 out in every direction into cultivated fields and gardens. The country 
 which we had crossed was unbroken by the labour of the ploughman ; 
 here his industry was displayed and richly rewarded : we had seen 
 scarcely one scanty rill; here water meandered in profusion; and 
 though this little spot was now stripped of its verdure and chilled by 
 the gloom of winter, the contrast between cultivation and a desert was 
 still striking and cheering. This valley is like a large trench excavated 
 in the plain. It is five miles long in an E. and W. direction, and about 
 three hundred yards broad in the line where we crossed; but the 
 breadth is unequal. At the eastern extremity on the brink of the pre- 
 cipice, hangs the town of Yezdikhaust. Its situation is most fantasti- 
 cal, and its mean and ill-defined houses appear at first sight to belong to 
 the rocks on which they rise, and which, in varied and extravagant 
 masses, surround the valley. The substance of the rock is soft. Be^ 
 neath it is a caravanserai, an elegant building erected near two hun- 
 dred years ago by a pious Queen of the Seffi race. It is still in good 
 repair, less by the care of the present generation than by the original 
 solidity of its structure. On the verge or the precipice is a small 
 mosque, built by the same Queen; and around it a burial place. 
 Yezdikhaust is the frontier town of the provinces of Fars and Irak. 
 Before the conquest of the Afghans it was a place of some conse- 
 quence, but since their devastations it has never resumed its prospe- 
 rity. It was taken by assault, and the inhabitants put to the 
 sword. To the East, over a rude drawbridge, is the entrance to the 
 town, which, without the use of cannon, seems almost impregnable. 
 It is there an isolated rock, connected with the others around only by 
 this bridge. 
 
154 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 27th. It rained at intervals during the night with much fury. It 
 cleared up, however, during the morning, and the sun shone bright ; 
 but it was then freezing so hard, that we were obliged to leave the 
 tents behind us until they should have lost their stiffness in the 
 warmth of the day. The feast of the Corban Bairam now com- 
 menced among the Mussulmans. The Persians performed the cere- 
 monies of the day, and we again proceeded on our journey. The 
 direction of our march averaged N. 10 W. After travelling nearly 
 seven hours we reached its termination at Maxhood-Beggy, a dis- 
 tance of eighteen miles. The line of our route led us to the W. side 
 of the plain, over a road still finer even than that on which we had 
 journied on the preceding day. The mountains lost their regular 
 bearing and outline, and were more varied in their projections and 
 recesses. At about nine miles from Yezdikhaust we arrived at a 
 caravanserai and a fort, the approaches to which were thickly spread 
 with the vestiges of a town. The place was called Ameenabad. On 
 the plain also, which succeeded, were scattered ruins. A North-east 
 wind sprung up, and, passing down the snowy summits of the 
 mountains, brought a sharpness so piercing, that, for the first time, 
 we were incommoded by the cold, and were anxious to get to our 
 encampment for the night. 
 
 Before our arrival, we were met by a person deputed by the Go- 
 vernor of Ispahan, to welcome us into his territory. Maxhood-Beggy 
 is seen at a distance, and then looks a large place. But the appear- 
 ances of its grandeur vanish on a nearer approach in ruins ; some 
 indeed are substantial walls, and the remains of bazars. Yet, instead of 
 the dilapidated chamber of some miserable caravanserai, which alone 
 we could have expected, we were lodged in a house of singular con- 
 venience and even elegance. It was built in fact, for her own accom- 
 modation, by the Queen at Shiraz, (the mother of the Prince Governor 
 of Farsistan) who was accustomed every two years to take a journey to 
 the King at Teheran, and who accordingly provided on both the winter 
 and the summer route a similar resting place. She enjoys a great rcputa- 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 155 
 
 tion, and the affections of the people ; for she is charitable to the poor, 
 and ready to do justice to the oppressed. 
 
 28th. When we departed from Maxhood-Beggy, our weather was 
 clear and serene. There was not a breath in the heavens, and the 
 clouds had dispersed. As we approached Komeshah, the plain ap- 
 peared more cultivated and better inhabited. Among the small forts 
 and enclosed gardens of men, were interspersed small towers built for 
 the convenience of the wild pigeons. These birds are greatly encouraged 
 round the country, for their manure is considered essential to the 
 fertility of the fields ; the immense number of pigeon houses (in ruins, or 
 still entire) on the plain about Komeshah, attest at least the prevalence 
 of the belief, if not the truth of the fact. The distance to Komeshah is 
 twelve miles on a bearing of N. 10 W. This place also was once large, 
 and in the time of the Seffis well peopled. It still occupies a large 
 tract of ground, and is walled all around. But since it was taken by 
 the Afghans, and a great part of its inhabitants put to the sword ; it 
 has fallen hopelessly. After having crossed the bed of the stream, and 
 the channels of an immense number of kanauts, we entered the town 
 through a gate to the westward. We passed through streets and bazars, 
 of which nothing but the bare walls were standing, and at length 
 reached the best house in the place ; but the only approach even to 
 this was amid the stones and mud fragments of surrounding ruins. 
 Travelling in our present mode, and carrying about a population of our 
 own, we do not so much feel the misery with which a country so 
 wretched, and towns so devastated, would inspire any one of us going 
 through the same tract a solitary individual. The ruins themselves be- 
 come animated on being peopled by our numerous party, who spread 
 themselves all about in busy groupes, and awake the solitude and 
 silence of these wastes so long unbroken by the vivacity of their dis- 
 putes, the confusion of their different works, and the vociferations of 
 their rude songs. As soon as we entered Komeshah, all the place was in 
 motion ; the scanty population which it afforded, and which had been 
 
 x 2 
 
PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 accumulated by that of every neighbouring village, came out to greet 
 us, betraying indeed their own wretchedness by the poverty of their 
 clothing, and every comfortless circumstance of their appearance. 
 They have a manufacture of cloth in Komeshah called kaduck, a 
 better sort of that coarse linen called kerbas, which is made in every 
 village. 
 
 The Envoy, according to the common custom of the country, sent a 
 present to the Governor of the place, with this difference, indeed, that 
 it was much larger than the rank of the party entitled him to expect. 
 It consisted of cloth, fine chintz, &c. The Governor however, when it 
 was brought to him, indignantly snatched one piece of chintz, and told 
 the bearer to take the rest as unworthy of his own acceptance, in the 
 hope that the Envoy would hasten to atone for his disrespect by 
 doubling the gift. Sir Harford, with great indifference, desired the 
 servant to keep what he had received, and congratulated him on his 
 good luck. In vain did the Governor entreat to have the original gift 
 restored, in vain did the Mehmandar mediate, the Envoy was inflexible, 
 and the Governor, to the laugh of every one, remained with his 
 single piece. 
 
 29th. At a mile and a half from Komeshah, on the left, is the tomb 
 of Shah Reza, and near it an extensive burying ground ; over one of 
 the tombs is the remains of a lion in stone : whatever it may mean, 
 it is certain that it dates from the remotest antiquity, being evi^ 
 dently prior to the Arabian conquests, and to the establishment of 
 the Mahomedan religion in Persia. The ruined forts, the towers 
 for pigeons, and other signs of habitation and cultivation which are 
 seen on the plain to the Northward of the town, prove that Kome- 
 shah has shared the prosperity of the better days of Persia. Our 
 weather continued most delightful, nor did I indeed recollect to 
 have ever seen an atmosphere so lucid and so soft. The moun- 
 tains to the Northward, which shewed their distant summits over the 
 ridges of the nearer hills, although crowned with snow did not seem 
 
H 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 157 
 
 to have been so overwhelmed, as those which we had passed to the 
 Southward. 
 
 30th. Our road to Mayar was distant fourteen miles ; the village 
 is situated at the foot of the mountains bearing N. from Komeshah, 
 a point which we ascertained by setting the high hill over that place. 
 At Mayar is a fine caravanserai built by the mother of Shah Abbas. 
 It is a very extensive building, consisting of one front court, on the 
 right and left of which, under lofty arches, are rooms and stables for 
 the convenience of travellers. The front of the principal gate is 
 inlaid with green lacquered tiles and neat cut bricks. It opens into 
 the large square, in the centre of which is a platform of the same 
 shape. On the right of the exterior front, is the cistern, over the 
 orifice of which is thrown a platform with a pillar at each corner. 
 The general structure is of brick, except some of the better rooms, in 
 which a fine blue stone is used. The whole is falling rapidly into 
 decay as a caravanserai, and has now indeed been converted into 
 one of the common forts of the country by raising mud walls 
 around and turrets at proper intervals : a miserable contrast to the 
 elegant and substantial workmanship of former times. 
 
 Our camp was usually quiet, but in our later progress it was dis- 
 turbed by the quarrels of our own servants (who were mostly from 
 Farsistan) and those of the Mehmandar (who were natives of Irak.) 
 The rivality and hatred, which exist between the people of the two 
 neighbouring provinces, can be conceived by those only who have 
 witnessed their effects. They are much greater than between Chris- 
 tian and Mahomedan, or Sheyah and Sunni. The two parties frequently 
 come to blows, which would have closed the dispute to which I 
 allude, if we had not interfered ; and if the Mehmandar had not 
 exerted his best influence and authority by administering the stick plen- 
 tifully to all the offending parties. 
 
 31st. We called it twenty miles from Mayar to Ispahanek. We 
 reached the extremity of the plains of Mayar, and then wound 
 
158 
 
 PERSEPOLIS TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 through the mountains for about two hours, till we came into the 
 plains of Ispahan. Our road bore, on an average, North. The 
 Envoy was unwell, and rode in the takht-e-ravan, a species of litter 
 which is suspended by shafts on the backs of mules, one before and 
 one behind. This conveyance, when the mules keep an even pace, 
 is not unpleasant, but when the animals break into a trot, becomes 
 very disagreeable. On entering the plain, we started a flock of 
 antelopes. 
 

 CHAP IX. 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 ItUINS ON THE PLAIN OF ISPAHAN THE ZAIANDE-ROOD RECEP- 
 TION OF THE ENVOY BY THE PEOPLE; THE MERCHANTS; THE 
 
 ARMENIAN CLERGY ; THE GOVERNOR ENTRANCE INTO THE 
 
 CITY BRIDGE CHAHAR BAGH PAVILIONS COLLEGE -PA- 
 LACES OF THE KING ; CHEHEL SITOON ; PAINTINGS HAREM 
 
 GATE GENERAL VIEW OF ISPAHAN MAIDAN PAVILION 
 
 OF THE CLOCK POPULATION ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN TO THE 
 
 ENVOY BY THE GOVERNOR. 
 
 A HE great number of buildings, which stud every part of the plain of 
 Ispahan, might lead the traveller to suppose that he was entering a 
 district of immense population. Yet almost the whole view consists of 
 the ruins of towns, and here and there only are spots which are en- 
 livened by the communities of men. But whatever may be the condi- 
 tion of modern Persia, its former state, if the remains scattered over the 
 whole country are sufficient evidences, must have been nourishing and 
 highly peopled. 
 
 The village of Ispahanek is situated just at the foot of a range of 
 hills which screen the extent of the great city from our view. It is 
 now reduced to a small fort, in which its population is immured. The 
 
160 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 plain is well irrigated by dikes cut from the Zaiande-rood, a river which, 
 in its course from the West, waters the whole country. It rises from 
 the Baktyar mountains, passes through Ispahan, and finalty expends 
 itself in the deserts of sand to the S. E. The Persians indeed have an 
 idle belief founded on a more idle tradition, that it resumes its waters 
 from the sand, constitutes the river which we crossed at Daulakee, and 
 discharges itself at last into the sea at Rohilla : a connection as they 
 still assert, ascertained by one of their Kings, who threw a marked 
 board into the place of the disappearance, and found it again in the 
 stream at Daulakee. Two etymologies are assigned to the name ; one 
 from ZaiandS, spurting, breaking from the ground, (jaillir ;) the other, 
 from ZendS, lost, alluding to its failure in the sand ; the termination rood 
 in either case is, river. Like every other part of the kingdom, the 
 country round Ispahan is almost destitute of timber ; and the surface is 
 a most arid field for the researches of a botanist. The vivid rock 
 of the mountains is lost at the point where their roots intersect 
 the plain below. 
 
 We estimated the distance from Ispahanek to Ispahan at two 
 fursungs, or six miles. We proceeded over the hills in regular proces- 
 sion ; the Envoy having taken every precaution that the Mission, with 
 which he was charged from the Throne, should be received with the 
 the fullest attention and respect. With this view it became his express 
 object, that the Governor of the city, Abdullah Khan, (son of 
 Mahomed Hussein Khan, the King's Second Minister) should 
 come out himself to meet him. As he had been led to understand that 
 this was a point already settled, he was surprised to hear by a message 
 which he received when he was on the road, that the Governor refused 
 to accede to his wishes, unless he first received a letter to that effect 
 from the Envoy himself. In consequence we made a temporary halt ; 
 and the Envoy wrote a note, stating, that although he thought himself 
 entitled to such a mark of attention from the Khan as an office of friend- 
 ship only, yet, as the bearer of a letter from his master the King of 
 England, to his Persian Majesty, he could not for a moment doubt, that 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 161 
 
 the Governor would yield to that letter, the distinction he would pay to 
 his own Sovereign. 
 
 It will be well indeed to remark, that from the commencement of 
 our march, Sir Harford Jones took similar precautions to ensure 
 every honour to his Majesty's letter. It was always placed in a 
 takht-e-ravan or litter, which was escorted by ten Indian troopers and an 
 officer, and was never taken out or replaced without the trumpet of the 
 guard sounding a blast. Whenever we stopped, it was deposited in 
 the tent of ceremony under a cloth of gold ; a sentry with a drawn 
 sword was placed over it, and no one was permitted to sit with his 
 back to it. The correspondence of Princes is a general object of rever- 
 ence in the East ; and the dignity which by these observances we at- 
 tached to the letter of our Sovereign, raised among the people a corres- 
 ponding respect towards his representative. 
 
 At about four miles from Ispahan, we were met by an advanced part 
 of the inhabitants. As we approached the city, the crowd increased to 
 numbers which baffled our calculation or guess. Although the stick 
 was administered with an unsparing hand, it was impossible to keep 
 the road free for our passage. People of all descriptions were collected 
 on mules, on horses, on asses ; besides an immense number on foot. 
 First came the merchants of the city, in number about three hundred, 
 all in their separate classes. Then followed a deputation from the 
 Armenian clergy, composed of the Bishop and chief dignitaries in their 
 sacerdotal robes. They carried silken banners, on which was painted 
 the Passion of our Saviour. The Bishop, a reverend old man with a 
 white beard, presented the Evangelists bound in crimson velvet to the 
 Envoy, and then proceeded on, with his attendant priests, chaunting 
 their church service. 
 
 When we came into the plain, the city of Ispahan rose upon the 
 view, and its extent was so great East and West, that my sight could 
 not reach its bounds. The crowd now was intensely great, and at 
 intervals quite impeded our progress. Slowly however we were ap- 
 proaching near towards the city, and yet the Governor had not appeared. 
 
162 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 The Envoy intimated, that he would receive no istakball, unless the 
 Governor headed it. Two of the chief men of the place met us, as we 
 arrived at the entrance of a fine spacious road, between two lofty walls. 
 This was the beginning of the Ispahan gardens, yet the walls of the 
 city itself were still a mile from us. We turned to the left through a 
 narrow porch, which led us into a piece of ground, planted on one 
 side by lofty thenar trees, and bounded on the other by the beautiful 
 river Zaiande-rood. At the extremity of this spot was a tent. We 
 were told, that it had been prepared by the Governor for the Envoy, 
 and that he himself was there in waiting. The Envoy stopped his 
 horse, and declared, that unless he was met by the Governor on horse- 
 back, he would take no notice of him, but proceed to his own tents, and 
 march straight forward to Teheran. This produced the desired effect. 
 The Governor came forth, and met us a few paces from his tent, and 
 we then proceeded towards it and alighted. The place, where the 
 tent was pitched, was called Sa-atabad ; a pavilion had been built there 
 by Shah Thamas. The tent itself rested on three poles ; its sides 
 were of open worked chintz, and its floor was strewed with carpets ; 
 on which were laid out fruits and sweetmeats in great profusion. 
 Chairs of an old-fashion, like those in the sculptures at Persepolis, were 
 prepared for us, and we were not put to the inconvenience of pulling 
 off our boots. We were then served with kaleoons> and afterwards with 
 sweetmeats. 
 
 When this ceremony was over, we proceeded along the banks of the 
 Zaiande-rood, on the opposite side of which were rows of firs, and ancient 
 pinasters. We saw three bridges of singular yet beautiful construction. 
 That, over which we crossed, was composed of thirty-three lower 
 arches, above each of which were ranged three smaller ones. There is 
 a covered causeway for foot passengers ; the surface of the bridge is 
 paved, and is of one level throughout the whole extent. After we had 
 crossed it, we proceeded through a gate into the Chahar Bagh, 
 which is a very spacious piece of ground, having two rows of chenar 
 trees in the middle, and two other rows on each side. The garden is 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 163 
 
 divided into parterres, and copiously watered by the canals of water, 
 which run from one side of it to the other ; and which at regular inter- 
 vals are collected into basons square or octagonal. This fine alley is 
 raised at separate distances into terraces, from which the water falls in 
 cascades. Of the chenar trees, which line the walks, most can be 
 traced to the time of Shah Abbas, and when any have fallen, others 
 have immediately been planted. On either side of the Chahar Bagh, 
 are the eight gardens which the Persians call Hasht-behesht, or eight 
 paradises. They are laid out into regular walks of the chenar tree, are 
 richly watered, and have each a pleasure-house, of which we were con- 
 ducted to occupy the best, that at least, which was certainly in more 
 perfect repair than the others. The rest indeed are in a state of decay, 
 and corroborate only by the remains of the beautifully painted walls 
 and gilded pannels, those lively and luxuriant descriptions of their 
 former splendor which travellers have given. 
 
 On the right of the Maidan, and nearly in the centre of the Chahar 
 Bagh, is a college called Medresse Shah Sultan Hossein. Its entrance 
 is handsome ; a lofty portico enriched with fantastic-twisted pillars, and 
 intermixed with the beautiful marble of Tabriz, leads through a pair of 
 brazen gates, of which the extremities are silver, and the whole surface 
 highly carved and embossed with flowers and verses from the Koran. 
 The gates pass into an elevated semi-dome, which at once opens into 
 the square of the college. The right side of this court is occupied by 
 the mosque, which is still a beautiful building, covered by a cupola and 
 faced by two minarets. But the cupola is falling into decay, the 
 lacquered tiles, on its exterior surface, are all peeling off, and the 
 minarets can no longer be ascended, for the stairs are all destroyed. The 
 interior of the dome is richly spread with variegated tiles, on which are 
 invocations to the prophet, and verses of the Koran in the fullest pro- 
 fusion. I ascended the dome, from which I had but a partial view of 
 the surrounding country ; and that which I did see was scarcely any 
 thing more than a series of ruined houses and palaces. The other sides 
 
 Y2 
 
16*4 
 
 ISPAPIAN. 
 
 of the square arc occupied, one, by a lofty and beautiful portico, and 
 the remaining two by rooms for the students, twelve in each front, ar- 
 ranged in two stories. These apartments are little square cells, spread 
 with carpets, and appeared to me admirably calculated for study. In- 
 deed, the quiet and retirement of this college, the beauty and serenity 
 of the climate, and the shrubbery and water in the courts, would have 
 combined to constitute it in my eyes a sanctuary for learning, and a 
 nursery for the learned, if it had been in any other country. We had 
 some conversation with the Director of the college Mech-essS Jedeh, 
 Mirza Mahomed Cossim. He is an old man, and possesses a very 
 high literary reputation in Persia, and appeared indeed to know much 
 more than the greater part of those whom we had seen, and to be a 
 perfect master of the history of Persia. He was extremely inquisitive, 
 and his questions were acute and pertinent ; he was much delighted 
 with our drawings, and with the map of our route, which we had 
 laid down. 
 
 The palaces of the King are enclosed in a fort of lofty walls, which 
 may have a circumference of three miles. The palace of the Chchel 
 Sitoon, or " forty pillars/' is situated in the middle of an immense square, 
 which is intersected by various canals, and planted in different directions 
 by the beautiful chenar tree. In front is an extensive square basin of 
 water, from the farthest extremity of which the palace is beautiful be- 
 yond either the power of language or the correctness of pencil to deli- 
 neate. The first saloon is open towards the garden, and is supported 
 by eighteen pillars, all inlaid with mirrors, and (as the glass is in much 
 greater proportion than the wood) appearing indeed at a distance to be 
 formed of glass only. Each pillar has a marble base, which is carved 
 into the figures of four lions placed in such attitudes, that the shaft 
 seems to rest on their four united backs. The walls, which form its ter- 
 mination behind, are also covered with mirrors placed in such a variety 
 of symmetrical positions, that the mass of the structure appears to be 
 of glass, and when new must have glittered with most magnificent 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 165 
 
 splendour. The ceiling is painted in gold flowers, which are still fresh 
 and brilliant. Large curtains are suspended on the outside, which are 
 occasionally lowered to lessen the heat of the sun. 
 
 From this saloon an arched recess (in the same manner studded with 
 glass, and embellished here and there with portraits of favourites) leads 
 into an extensive and princely hall. Here the ceiling is arranged in a 
 variety of domes and figures, and is painted and gilded with a taste and 
 elegance worthy of the first and most civilized of nations. Its finely 
 proportioned walls are embellished by six large paintings : three on one 
 side and three on the other. In the centre of that opposite to the en- 
 trance is painted Shah Ism a el, in an exploit much renowned in Per- 
 sian story; when in the great battle with Soliman, Emperor of the 
 Turks, he cuts the Janisary Aga in two before the Sultan. On the right 
 of this, surrounded by his dancing women, musicians, and grandees, 
 is Shah Abbas the Great, seated at a banquet, and offering a cup of 
 wine to another King, whom he is entertaining at his side. The Avine, 
 indeed, seems to have flowed in plenty, for one of the party is stretched 
 on the floor in the last stage of drunkenness. The painting to the left 
 is Shah Th am as, in another banquet scene. Opposite to the battle 
 between Shah IsMAELand Sultan SoLiMAN,is that of Nadir Shah 
 and Sultan Mahmoud of India. On the left of this is Shah Ab- 
 bas the Younger, who also is occupied with the pleasures of the table ; 
 and on the right is Shah Ismael again, in an engagement with the 
 Usbeck Tartars. These paintings, though designed without the smallest 
 knowledge of perspective, though the figures are in general ill-propor- 
 tioned, and in attitudes awkward and unnatural, are yet enlivened by a 
 spirit and character so truly illustrative of the manners and habits of the 
 nations which are represented, that I should have thought them an in- 
 valuable addition to my collection, if I could have had time to have 
 made copies of them. When it is remembered, that the artist neither 
 could have had the advantages of academical studies, nor the opportu- 
 nities of improving his taste and knowledge by the galleries of the 
 great in Europe, or conversed with masters in the art, his works would 
 
166 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 be allowed to possess a very considerable share of merit, and to be 
 strong instances of the genius of the people. The colours with which 
 they are executed retain their original freshness ; at least if they have 
 faded they must have been such in their first state, as we have not seen 
 in Europe. The gilding, which is every where intermixed, either to ex- 
 plain the richness of the dress, or the quality of the utensils, is of a 
 brilliancy perhaps never surpassed. 
 
 They pessess less questionably an excellence, to which the merit of 
 colouring k at any rate very subordinate. They mark strongly and 
 faithfully the manners of their subject, and combine in a series of 
 pleasing ard accurate records a variety of details, of feature, attitude, 
 dress, dancing, musical instruments, table furniture, arms, and horse 
 accoutrements of the country. Shah Abbas, in the painting to the 
 right, has no beard. The fashions have altered with the times, and the 
 present Khg cherishes a beard which descends lower than his girdle, 
 and touches the ground when he sits. The notoriety of Shah Abbas 
 in the revels of the table, and particularly his love of wine, are here 
 displayed ii characters so strong, that they cannot be mistaken : and so 
 little did he endeavour to conceal his propensities, that he is here 
 painted in ;he very act of drinking. The faces of the women are very 
 pleasing, but their wanton looks and lascivious attitudes easily explain 
 their professions. 
 
 The furniture of the Chehel Sitoon, which consists indeed of carpets 
 only, is still kept there. The carpets of the time of Abbas are of a large 
 pattern, mere regular and infinitely superior in texture to those of the 
 present day. Although the outer part of the fabric is suffered to fall to 
 ruin, the interior is still preserved in repair, as it forms the Dewan 
 Khoneh, or Hall of Audience to the Palace; and is, therefore, kept in 
 readiness for the King's reception. 
 
 Adjoining to the Chehel Sitoon is the harem; the term in Persia is ap- 
 plied to the establishments of the great, zenana is confined to those of 
 the inferior people. This building was lately erected by Mahomed 
 Hossein Khan, the second Minister, and presented by him to his 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 167 
 
 Majesty, and therefore is a very good specimen of the style and work- 
 manship of the present day ; and in this view it merits description. 
 It is indeed considered so perfect in its establishment, that if the King 
 were to arrive at Ispahan without a moment's notice, not one, the smallest 
 domestic article, would be wanting for the convenience of his suite, and 
 the whole palace would present all the comforts which could be found 
 after a residence of many years. From the garden of the Chehel Sitoon an 
 intricate passage leads under an octagonal tower into this new palace, and 
 opens into an oblong square laid out into flower beds, straight walks and 
 basins of water, and surrounded on all its sides by chambers for women 
 of an inferior rank. Proceeding on the left side of this court, a door 
 opens into a species of green-house called the Narangistoon, in which 
 there are only young orange trees. From this there is but one step 
 into the principal court of the building, one whole side of which is 
 occupied by the King's apartments or drawing-rooms. The front 
 room is adorned by two portraits of his Majesty, on one side seated on 
 his throne, and on the other in the act of killing a deer in a chase on 
 horseback. There are also other pictures, of which the most remark- 
 able are those representing Ti moor or Tamerlane, Jenghiz Khan, 
 and Jemsheed, The walls are very richly painted with bouquets of 
 flowers, birds and other animals. The arch, which occupies the side 
 facing the great window, is a beautiful composition of glass and 
 painting, and was the neatest specimen of decorative art which I had 
 then seen in Persia. The ceiling is highly ornamented ; gilded flowers 
 and bright looking glasses glisten on every side, and give great liveli- 
 ness and gaiety to the whole. Behind this is another room equally 
 well painted ; the upper windows are here most artfully constructed 
 of plaster, which is pierced into small holes in a great variety of 
 figures and rlowers resembling the open work of lace, and admitting a 
 pleasing light. In this room also there are portraits, one of which, that 
 of a European, is called the Shah Zade Fre?ig, or European Prince. 
 He is represented in our dress of the sixteenth century, in which 
 
168 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 indeed all the portraits of the Europeans appear, and which is suffi- 
 ciently explained by the recollection that Shah Abbas had Dutch 
 painters in his pay. The other rooms in this department are similarly 
 decorated and gilded ; and in some hang portraits of the King; to 
 which the natives, as they approach, all make an inclination of the 
 head. Under the great room are summer apartments excavated in 
 the ground, which in their season must be delightful retreats. They 
 are all wainscoted and paved with marble slabs, and water is introduced 
 by cascades, which fall from the ground floor, and refresh the whole 
 range. A passage leads to the bath, which, though small, is elegant. 
 The domes are supported by columns, taken from the Armenian 
 churches at Julfa. 
 
 From this court, a passage leads into several others for inferior 
 women; and then into two rooms built by Ashreff, one of the 
 Afghan Kings. The latter are indeed much inferior to those which I 
 have already described. They have heavy massive glasses and gild- 
 ings, and coarse paintings of fruits and flowers, without any representa- 
 tion of the human figure. On the whole, however, we found through- 
 out the palace much sameness, both in the arrangement of the 
 rooms, and in the distribution of the grounds. In the love of water 
 and running streams, a Persian taste is fully gratified at Ispahan, 
 through which the Zaiande-rood affords for all their ornamental purposes 
 an unceasing supply. 
 
 From the interior of the palaces we ascended the All Capi gate, 
 which forms the entrance. This gate, once the scene of the magnifi- 
 cence of the Seffi family, the threshold of which was ever revered as 
 sacred, is now deserted, and only now and then a solitary individual is 
 seen to pass negligently through. The remains of that splendour, so mi- 
 nutely and exactly described by Chardin, are still to be traced ; the 
 fine marbles remain, and the grandeur and elevation of the dome are 
 still undemolished. A ragged porter opened a small door to the right, 
 by which we ascended to the pavilion where Shah Abbas was wont 
 
X 
 
ISPAHAN 
 
 169 
 
 to see the games of the Maidan and the exercises of his troops. This 
 also is sinking rapidly into decay, and retains nothing to attest the 
 beauties which travellers describe, except the shafts of the wooden 
 columns, some pieces of glass, and some decayed paintings. From 
 this we ascended by a winding stair-case, still further to the very 
 summit. Here, as this is the highest building in the city, we enjoyed 
 a most extensive view, and from this place we could form a tolerably 
 just idea of its real extent. Houses, or ruins of houses, are spread 
 all over the plain, and reach to the very roots of the surrounding 
 mountains. From this point I took a panoramic view of the whole, 
 which I completed undisturbed, as I had secured the door, and the 
 porter at the bottom before I commenced.* There is no difference 
 in the colours of the buildings ; they are universally of a light yellow, 
 and, if it were not for an abundant intermixture of trees, which in 
 spring and summer cheer and enliven the scene, the view would be 
 monotonous. The trees are mostly the chenars ; but, besides these, 
 there are the Lombardy poplar, the willow, and an elm with very thick 
 and rich foliage and a formal shape. The domes of the mosques 
 are a field of green or sometimes blue-lacquered tiles, with ornaments 
 in yellow, blue, and red : the inscriptions are in the same colours. 
 They are crowned by golden balls and a crescent, with the horns 
 bending outwardly. 
 
 The mountains, which bound the plain to the Eastward, are the 
 most distant ; and those to the West are most strongly marked ; 
 all are dark without any verdure. The general appearance of the 
 soil in the town is light, and nearly of the same colour as the 
 houses. 
 
 All the cannon, which in Ciiardin's day were enclosed in a 
 balustrade before the palace, are removed, and there is not left a 
 vestige even of the balustrade itself. The Maidan Shah, the great public 
 
 * Of this view, a part is selected in plate XXII. 
 
 7, 
 
170 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 place, no longer presents the busy scene which it must have displayed 
 in the better times of this kingdom. Of all the trees which sur- 
 rounded it, there is not one standing. The canals, of which the stones 
 remain, are void of water ; the houses, which surrounded the Maidan, 
 are no longer inhabited; and the very doors are all blocked up, 
 so that there is now only a dead row of arches to be seen all round. 
 The great market, which once spread the whole area with tents, is 
 now confined to one corner near the Nokara KhanSh. All the rest 
 is quite empty ; scarcely a person is seen to pass along. I saw no 
 traces of the pavilion of the clock, which in the time of Chardin 
 so much amused the people by the mechanism of its puppets. The 
 Mesjid Shah or Royal Mosque is still a noble building, if I might 
 judge from its outside ; although the lacquered tiles on the dome 
 are in many places falling off. We did not go further than the iron 
 chain, which is thrown across the entrance of its great gate leading into 
 the Maidan. The Mesjid of Loaft Ollah is exteriorly in good repair. 
 The great bazar is entered under the Nokara KhanSh by a hand- 
 some gate, the paintings on which still exist, but the large clock 
 (of which however the place is still seen) is no longer in exist- 
 ence ; nor is there any trace of that also, that was once on the very 
 summit. The other side of the gate opens into the fine bazars (for- 
 merly called the Kaiseree) now the Bazar Shah. 
 
 There are no modern bazars, except one built by Hajee Ma- 
 homed Hossein Khan, the second Minister. He has also made 
 a new Chahar Bagh, in that part of the city towards the bridge, called 
 Pool Hajoo. The bazars, as I had occasion to observe at Shiraz, 
 are all laid out on nearly the same plan as those of Constantino- 
 ple ; generally the different trades in separate bazars. They are 
 on the whole more lively than those of Turkey ; being painted and 
 adorned in many places, (particularly under the domes in the centre), 
 with portraits of the heroes of the country, or with combats, or with 
 figures of beasts, and other subjects. In these bazars the confluence 
 of people is certainly great, and if the crowds here were a fair mca- 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 171 
 
 surement of the general population of the city, the whole numbers of 
 Ispahan would swell rapidly ; but as every one in the course of the 
 day has some business in this spot, the rest of the city is compara- 
 tively deserted; and as the traders also themselves have here their 
 shops only and return to their homes at night, the mixed multi- 
 tudes which throng the bazars, again scattered over all the quarters 
 of the town, become a very inadequate proportion for its extent. 
 The women, indeed, except the very lower class, generally remain 
 at home,, and during the day form, with their children, all the po- 
 pulation of some parts of the city. The N. and E. divisions are 
 the best inhabited. In Chardin's time the numbers were esti- 
 mated by those who reckoned largely one million and one hundred 
 thousand souls; but even by the more moderate were fixed at six 
 hundred thousand. Considering, however, the state of ruin in which, 
 perhaps, half of Ispahan is at present, we cannot place its actual 
 population at more than four hundred thousand souls, a calculation 
 which is supported by the accounts of the houses or families, of 
 which there are eighty thousand. This information was subsequently 
 communicated to me by Hajee Mahomed Hossein Khan, second 
 Minister to the King, a native also of the city, and long its Governor, 
 whose opportunities therefore of ascertaining the fact were unquestion- 
 able. Much, nevertheless, must be allowed for the exaggeration na- 
 tural to a Persian. 
 
 The kabob shops (or eating-houses on the plan of those in Turkey) 
 seemed to be also equally clean and well arranged. From one of 
 these a complete dinner, with every necessary convenience of dishes, 
 sherbets, &c. may be procured at a short notice, and at a moderate 
 expence. The most frequent shops appeared to be those of sweet- 
 meats, which (in a consumption almost incredible) form the chief 
 ingredients of Persian food, and are here arranged for sale very 
 neatly in large China vases, clean glass vessels, and bright brass 
 platters. The people excel in the composition ; and import their sugar 
 
 z3 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 from India, and their sugarcandy from China. Large quantities of 
 sugar come from Cairo also, through Suez. 
 
 The Beglerbeg, or Governor, gave the Envoy and his suite an en- 
 tertainment which, in one particular only, was more splendid than 
 those at Shiraz. The great court and all the avenues were here 
 illuminated by a vast number of small lamps, which threw an immense 
 blaze of light all over the place. A China drum which the Beglerbeg 
 had been keeping for many years till , a fit opportunity for the display 
 should occur, was now brought forwards. It was suspended on high 
 in the middle of the court. The fire was applied to it, but it emitted 
 thick vapour with little explosions at intervals ; and though a meschal 
 or great torch was at length tried, it only increased the smoke and 
 stench, and proved too clearly, that the whole was a Chinese fraud, 
 not unfrequently practised on the purchasers of their drums ; a little 
 gunpowder was placed at the ends indeed, but the centre was stuffed 
 with old rags. The other fireworks also were generally miserable, in 
 comparison with those at Shiraz. The dinner, (instead of being served 
 in the usual manner on the ground) was placed on tables framed for 
 the occasion, and was piled up in enormous heaps. The Beglerbeg had 
 the further attention to provide us with plates, spoons, knives, and 
 forks, which were all in like manner made for the day's entertain- 
 ment. The spoons were of silver, and that for the Envoy was 
 of gold. 
 
 The report, which we had received on the road, that it was 
 the intention of the government to detain the Envoy at Ispahan, did 
 not prove without foundation. The Beglerbeg said, " that the Em- 
 " bassador was to stay at Ispahan to see the country at his leisure, 
 " and visit all the fine buildings of the city/' However, at a private 
 conference which Sir Harford had with him at the Goush KhonSh, 
 all this was changed, so thaf the Beglerbeg was then more anxious 
 even than ourselves, that we should proceed to the capital with every 
 possible expedition. He now urged on the Envoy, promising all his 
 
ISPAHAN. 
 
 173 
 
 assistance to enable him to reach Teheran, before the commencement 
 of the mourning of the Moharrem ; engaging his own mules to convey 
 us from Ispahan, and ordering two relays of one hundred and fifty 
 each at Ka'shan and at Kom. This anxiety was again seconded by a 
 courier, who had arrived in two days from Teheran, and had 
 brought the answers to the letters which we had dispatched from 
 Khojieh Korreh. 
 

 CHAP. X. 
 
 ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM ISPAHAN — MOURCHEKOURD — SCENE OF THE 
 
 VICTORY OF NADIR SHAH RUINS THE BUND KOHROOD 
 
 KASHAN SALT DESERT KOOMJ TOMB POOL DALLAUKJ AD- 
 VENTURE IN THE NIGHT VIEW OF TEHERAN APPROACH 
 
 ENTRANCE INTO THE CITY. 
 
 ON the 7th of February, accordingly we left Ispahan; our first day's 
 march, from Goush KhonSh to Gez> was a distance of ten miles only. 
 On the right of the road is a village called Sayin, which, as we were told, 
 produces the best melons in the country. The soil, over which we tra- 
 velled, was soft and crumbling, and strongly impregnated with salt, and 
 in parts rendered muddy and swampy by the streams which intersect 
 it. The weather was lowering on all sides, with a breeze from the 
 Westward ; which here and there in little whirlwinds carried the sand 
 high up into the air in columns, resembling water-spouts at sea. The 
 whole plain is covered with ruins, from which only now and then a 
 few miserable peasants crept out to gape at our passing troops. The 
 dikes, cut from the banks of the Zaiande-rood, irrigate the whole 
 of the plain, and produce a greater appearance of cultivation than 
 
ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 175 
 
 hitherto we had generally seen. The caravanserai at Gez, though fall- 
 ing into decay, is still handsome, and is built of the same materials, 
 and on nearly the same grand scale, as that which we had occupied at 
 Mayar. This likewise is the work of the Seffis. Similar caravanserais 
 were constructed at every stage on the road to Bagdad; nothing, 
 indeed, can equal the truly royal establishments which Shah Abbas 
 the Great maintained throughout his dominions for the accommodation 
 of strangers. 
 
 8th February. The bearing from Gez to Mourchekourd is N. W. 
 and the distance by our computation is eighteen miles, which we 
 travelled in six hours. At about seven miles, we came to a ruined 
 caravanserai, built of the same materials and in the same neat manner 
 as that at Gez. Nearly facing it is a well, to which we descended by 
 a path, excavated from the surface on an angle of forty-five degrees, 
 and about fifty yards in length. We saw small fish swimming about 
 in this well, which appeared to us to be a spring of fine and limpid 
 water. After having travelled about six miles further, we came to a 
 very handsome caravanserai. We had discovered it immediately on 
 ascending the summit of a range of hills, over which the road carried 
 us. It is situated on the right of the road, and, with its bath and 
 reservoirs on the left, was built by the mother of Shah Abbas. The 
 structure has suffered less, than any other which we have seen, by 
 the injuries of time and man. It is built of brick on a foundation 
 of the same fine blue stone, which we had so much admired at Mayar. 
 The front is ornamented with an open brick-work, and with neat 
 Mosaic. The portico is crowned by a superb dome, and leads into 
 the square court ; the sides of which contain the rooms for travellers. 
 Behind are vaulted stables with much accommodation. The hummum 
 is useless through decay ; but the reservoir is still in good repair. 
 
 From this we proceeded five miles to Mourchekourd, and passed 
 over a part of the plain, on which Nadir Shah gained his decisive 
 victory over Ashreff, the Afghan Chief. The mountains to the 
 Northward were covered with snow, and still presented a winter to us, 
 
176 
 
 ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 although the weather on the plain was delightfully serene and mild. 
 The soil is hard, in some places argillaceous. The whole country, 
 which we had passed in the day's march, was poor and depo- 
 pulated, though the ruins in different parts of the plain, speak that 
 it was once enlivened and enriched by men. As we approached 
 Mourchekourd we found indeed cultivation, and the kanauts which 
 produce it. 
 
 9th. From Mourchekourd a caravanserai which we were to pass, 
 bore by our compass N. 15 W. a distance of twelve miles. The 
 road was good, on an arid plain, bounded by inconsiderable moun- 
 tains. The caravanserai itself was another of those structures, which 
 in the latter part of our route we had so often admired. From this 
 point we continued for eight miles over rising and falling ground to a 
 second caravanserai called Aga Kemal, but pronounced short without 
 the g, Aakemal. Around we saw a little cultivation and a few poplars ; 
 all the rest is desert. On the left, bearing West, is the small territory 
 of Joshoogun, containing the three villages of Bendai, Khosroabad t 
 and Vazvoon, which we descried at the distance of about four miles, 
 situated under a red hill at the extremity of the plain. From Aga 
 Kemal we ascended mountains entirely covered with snow, which, 
 from its appearance indeed, may remain there throughout the Avhole 
 year. The distance to Kohrood was still twelve miles, which we 
 travelled by sun-set, having set oft' at five in the morning. By 
 the bearings of elevated hills we arranged our whole march to the 
 direction N. 10 W. 
 
 As we descended into the valley of Kohrood, which from the depth 
 of the snow was a work of some trouble, we noticed a pretty little 
 bubbling stream, which, winding through the vale, watered a succes- 
 sion of cultivated spots and plantations of apple, pear, poplar, and 
 walnut trees. The town is built on the side of a mountain. We 
 passed the night in the caravanserai, where our accommodations were 
 indifferent, and our rest, of which we were in great want, was broken 
 by the incessant noise and wrangling of our Persian attendants. 
 
ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 177 
 
 Several of our horses had been left on the road from excessive 
 fatigue. 
 
 The valley of Kohrood extends in a North-Eastern direction ; it is 
 abundantly watered and wooded beautifully, and every species of fruit 
 tree thrives there. The fields are disposed in terraces, and each sepa- 
 rate plat of cultivated ground is intersected by small ridges raised to 
 facilitate irrigation. We had hitherto passed through a country, to 
 which so much wood and so much cultivation afforded a very de- 
 lightful contrast. The Persians, indeed, admit, that there are few 
 Kohroods in the kingdom, and that in summer its verdure is incompar- 
 able. Our route led through another village in the same valley. 
 Close to the road is the tomb of one of the inferior saints of Persia, with a 
 pyramidical roof covered with green-lacquered tiles. As we passed near 
 it, a little boy, surrounded by a set of his companions, entreated our 
 compassion by invoking the name of the holy man in the neighbour- 
 ing grave. When we had quitted the trees and cultivated grounds, 
 we continued to wind in the valley which had then narrowed to a close 
 and sometimes difficult pass. This pass, on a bearing of N. 30 E. is 
 in length about six miles, and is terminated on the left of the road by 
 a caravanserai called Gueberabad. Before we reached it, we skirted a 
 small artificial lake called the Band Kohrood, the waters of which are 
 supplied by the river of Kohrood, and the melting of the snows of the 
 adjacent mountains, and are confined on the N. extremity by a strong 
 wall built across the chasm of the valley. A stream, however, oozes 
 out from the base, which finally expends itself in the plain about 
 Kashan. Gueberabad is at present a ruined village ; in former days it 
 was peopled, as its name imports, by the Gnebres. 
 
 The caravanserai is one of the good buildings of the age of the 
 Seffis, and by an inscription on the front appears to have been erected 
 by Meer Sakee, one of the generals of Shah Abbas. Here first 
 we discovered the plain of Kashan, bounded by the distant range of 
 mountains, of which Demawend formed the most conspicuous and the 
 
 A A 
 
178 
 
 ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 highest point. It rises in a very symmetrical cone abruptly from a 
 long and unbroken range. It is covered with eternal snows, but its 
 height is more easily deduced from the distance to which it is visible. 
 In a direct line from the caravanserai of Gueberabad, that distance 
 could not have been less than one hundred and fifty miles ; and the 
 Persians declare that it can be seen even at Ispahan from the minaret 
 of the Mesjid Shah, which is at least two hundred and forty miles 
 distant. We descended rapidly into the plain towards Kashan : here 
 we were met by a large istakball, which accompanied us to the 
 Northern side of the city with all the noises of Persian rejoicings .* 
 
 From Kashan we continued along the immense plain ; the moun- 
 tains, which bind it on the North, just appeared in the lightest blue 
 tints on the edge of the horizon. From Kashan to our encampment 
 at Nusserabad, we saw on the skirts E. and W. of the plain several 
 villages, and with them cultivation. On the left of the road were 
 Cosac, Key, Ser, Badgoon, Rouand, Corabad: on the right, Aroun, 
 Britgoli, Nouchabad, and Alt Abad. We reckoned the total length of 
 the day's journey at thirty miles (on a bearing of N. 20 W.) viz. eight 
 to Gueberabad, thirteen to Kashan, and nine to Nusserabad. In former 
 days the people of Nusserabad were noted for their idleness and pro- 
 pensity to voluptuousness, so that a fine gentleman is still called a 
 Mirza of Nusserabad. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th we quitted our tents two hours before 
 sun-rise, as we had a march of forty miles before us to Koom; the 
 Persians call the distance fifteen fursungs. We continued our route 
 
 * " At Kashan, according to the second Minister of the kingdom, who seemed devoutly 
 * to credit his own story, is a well, which we did not see. There is a descent of six 
 M months to the bottom, and in the different stages of the journey the traveller comes to 
 ** plains and rivers. Some have gone down and never appeared again. These are tales 
 u which to a Persian are not incredible, though they will not believe that the streets of 
 u London are lighted, or that there are in Europe houses seven stories high." 
 
ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 179 
 
 along the plain in the same course as on the preceding day. On our 
 left were mountains, and on our right was the plain bounded only by 
 the horizon, and constituting indeed the commencement of the great 
 Salt Desert of Persia, which, according to the people of the country, 
 extends even to the confines of Usbeck Tartary. The principal part of 
 that over which we passed was a* soil strongly impregnated with salt, 
 which, after rain or snow, renders the roads difficult and dangerous. 
 The weather was favourable during our passage, and we crossed with- 
 out any inconvenience (except that of a heavy mud) a part of the 
 plain dreaded by caravans and travellers in winter journies. We tra- 
 versed the plain for ten miles, and then turned N. 30 W. among the 
 mountains. As we proceeded, we observed their strata disposed in 
 singular directions, and forming very varied angles with the horizon. 
 Nature, in some places, amid the stupendous masses of rock which 
 surrounded us, seemed to have finished her operations by small conical 
 mounds, increasing by regular gradations as they approached the mo- 
 ther mountain. Every thing looked as if it were newly created, and 
 only wanted the art and industry of man to rub off its first rude 
 surface. 
 
 At about eleven miles from Nusserabad stands a caravanserai called 
 Sin Sin, erected by the present King. It is a strong but vulgar build- 
 ing, when compared with the elegant structures of the reign of Shah 
 Abbas. The rude stones and plaster with which it is constructed, 
 are covered with a coat of white wash, which, at a distance indeed 
 gives it a magnificent appearance. Near this were the ruins of a 
 village. Still further, on the right of the road, are more ruins, which, 
 according to my informer, were those of a town called DeJmar. A 
 second caravanserai of the same materials as that of Sin Sin, is situated 
 at the distance of seven miles. Next is Passangoor, which is merely 
 another caravanserai in the plain, and distant twelve miles; at three 
 miles distant further is Langarood, which is remarkable for some old 
 pinasters standing about it, and a garden of some extent. From Lan- 
 garood to Koom is ten miles more. We reached Koom very late and 
 
 A A 2 
 
180 
 
 ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 had to pass through its extensive ruins when it was quite dark. The 
 Envoy, who rode in the takht-e-ravan 9 was in some danger in passing 
 over a bridge, for one of the mules slipping threw him nearly into 
 the stream. 
 
 Koom is esteemed a holy city ; it encloses the tombs of many saints, 
 and among others that of the sister of Imaum Reza. The present 
 Kino 1 made a vow before he ascended the throne, that if he should ever 
 succeed to the crown he would enrich the city of Koom by buildings, 
 and exempts its inhabitants from paying tribute. He has fulfilled his 
 vow, and has built a large medresse or college near the tomb of the 
 sister of Imaum Reza, and gives great encouragement to the learned 
 people who resort to it. He covered the cupola of the tomb itself 
 with gold plates (instead of the lacquered tiles which he removed), and 
 he is said to spend one hundred thousand tomauns annually, in the 
 embellishments of these monuments. The riches of this tomb are said 
 to be immense, and they are augmented every year by some new 
 donation in jewelry and precious stones from the King's wives, and the 
 great men of the court. The tomb of Imaum Reza himself is in the 
 city of Mescked. 
 
 12th. The morning presented to us a dark and threatening atmos- 
 phere, and a country covered with snow. It had fallen in the night 
 to a depth of six inches. We however proceeded on to Pool Dallauk, 
 a distance of twelve miles ; leaving our heavy baggage behind, as the 
 Envoy was particularly anxious to reach the capital, before the com- 
 mencement of the mourning of Moharre?n. North of Koom there is a 
 small river called the Khour-e-Shootur. The plain was much soaked 
 with the melted snow ; we reached the caravanserai at Pool Dallauk 
 at an early hour, intending to depart again at ten o'clock at night. 
 This place derives its name from a barber who repaired the bridge, 
 originally built by Shah Abbas over the river, which runs E. 
 and W. before the caravanserai. The water of this stream, and 
 indeed all the rivulets here, derive asaltness from the soil through which 
 they pass. 
 
ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 181 
 
 After having refreshed our cattle and ourselves, we made preparations 
 to depart at ten o'clock. The night was very dark, and our Mehman- 
 dar (who had not shewn an inclination to second our desires of 
 proceeding with all dispatch) now opposed every difficulty which he 
 could devise: he expatiated on the danger of undertaking the journey 
 by night, and talked of certain passes on the road, where travellers 
 had been lost and never more heard of. He was in fact an old man, 
 unaccustomed to the activity of our proceedings. Yet he was not the 
 only one, who was disappointed and surprised at the celerity of our 
 movements. 
 
 The chiefs of the tent-pitchers and of the muleteers, who had at- 
 tended former missions, had passed months on the road, and thus 
 secured a profit on the pay of their people and their mules, which the 
 shortness of our engagement greatly reduced. Our journies were 
 compared with the celebrated marches of their late King Aga Ma- 
 homed Khan, who waged so many wars with Lootf Ali Khan ; 
 but those, who considered it incompatible with the dignity of a 
 great man to move fast, said that we were rather choppers (couriers) 
 than Embassadors. Yet the greatest distance that we ever travelled in 
 one day was forty miles, and we employed thirty-five days in a 
 journey of about six hundred and fifty miles, at an average perhaps of 
 nineteen miles a day. 
 
 When we were unmoved by his forebodings, our Mehmandar endea- 
 voured to sooth us into compliance to his wishes, by sending us a 
 variety of savoury dishes for our dinner, which however only renewed 
 our spirits, and increased our eagerness to proceed. We accordingly 
 mounted our horses. The troop had already advanced with much of 
 our baggage. The Envoy (preceded by two people, who by courtesy 
 were called guides, and followed by the Mehmandar and the gentlemen 
 of the suite) had not travelled half a mile from the caravanserai, when 
 his conductors declared that they had lost the road. After long and 
 fruitless exertion, bewildered more and more by those who had under- 
 taken our direction, we resolved to return to the caravanserai, and -to 
 
182 
 
 ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 take a fresh departure. Even this became impracticable, for the 
 town was not to be found. The Mehtnandar then, seemingly in great 
 trouble, went forward himself to seek the place, and after much 
 delay returned to us, bringing along with him a poor wretch, whose 
 hands he had tied behind his back, and to whom he occasionally 
 administered blows. This was our new conductor, but he was so 
 much frightened, that he could not proceed, until the Envoy pledged 
 himself, that he should meet with no harm ; but on the contrary 
 should receive a reward of fifteen tomauns, if he led us in safety to 
 Kinar-a-gird. We again advanced, and were again unsuccessful ; our 
 new guide was more perverse or more stupid than his predecessors, 
 and we were once more obliged to return in the hope of regaining 
 the caravanserai. In search of this place we roamed about four long 
 and melancholy hours, hearing the cries of wanderers, as we supposed 
 like ourselves, in all parts of the plain. Unfortunately we had then 
 no compass with us, nor was there a star to be seen that might direct 
 us. At length however we espied a light, which happily proceeded 
 from the walls of our caravanserai, and guided us again to it. 
 
 We departed again the next morning, and discovered to our sur- 
 prise that the road, which to us had been rendered so intricate, led 
 straight to the opening of the mountains through which we were to 
 pass. It was impossible therefore to wander from it except pur- 
 posely, and the Mehmandcr at length acknowledged that he had 
 himself contrived the delay, and the mortification of the preceding 
 night. The Envoy refused to speak to him, threatened a complaint 
 to the King, and terrified him so effectually, that with every oath 
 common to a Persian, he cursed himself as " an old fool, and a stupid 
 " senseless wretch/' The Envoy at length relented, and assured him 
 that he had nothing to fear. At the distance of six miles from Pool 
 Dallauk, we entered the swamp of Kavecr, which (to its termination 
 at the caravanserai called Haooz Sultan) we crossed in three hours, 
 a length often miles. It is part of the great desert which reaches into 
 Khorassan, the soil of which is composed of a mixture (at least equal) 
 
ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 183 
 
 of salt and earth. Though the road therefore, over which we travelled, 
 is as good as those in any other direction across the swamp, it is 
 frequently after rains impassable : as the horses, which in our passage 
 were up to the fetlock, are up to their bellies in less favourable 
 weather. 
 
 At Haooz Sultan we were met by an Officer with a letter from the 
 King, expressing his thanks for the information communicated to him 
 by the Envoy, of the defeats which " the common enemy" had received 
 in Spain, and inviting him to arrive at his capital without delay. 
 We proceeded, and came to the Mulluk-al-Moat, a kind of pass 
 leading through an extent of broken country, which, forming a laby- 
 rinth of little hills and intricate nooks, has not unfrequently been a 
 real cause of difficulty to travellers, and to a certain degree embarrassed 
 us till we reached Kinar-a-gird. In the dells were a variety of streams 
 which were nearly salt The land itself bears evident marks of the 
 action of fire. The soap-wort is the most common shrub all over trie 
 face of the country, but no use is made of it. About twofursungs 
 from Kinar-a-gird we crossed a large salt stream, running from W. to 
 E. and just before it we were greeted by an istakball. Our march on 
 this day was forty miles. We passed the night in a large caravanserai 
 built by the present King at Kinar-a-gird; where the Mehmandar, 
 regardless of his late disgrace, again behaved ill, for his servants were 
 suffered to intrude on the space which had been reserved for us. 
 
 From Kinar-a-gird to Teheran is six fursungs, which we called 
 sixteen miles. We continued along the plain for two miles, crossing 
 numerous channels of water which are carried from the stream by 
 Kinar-a-gird. We then wound among some small hills for four 
 miles, when the plain of Teheran opened upon us, bounded from E. toW. 
 by a lofty range of mountains. Clouds generally rest on their sum- 
 mits, and the snow at this time covered their very roots. On the West 
 and high above them is the peak of Demawend. 
 
 Teheran, as we descended gradually into the plain, bore N. 25 E. of 
 us. On the right are the ruins of the ancient city of Iley, scattered in 
 
184 
 
 ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN. 
 
 great profusion at the foot of the nearer mountains. The soil of the 
 plain is salt, and of course very soft, intersected by a great number 
 of dikes, which being well replenished with water had rendered the 
 road extremely difficult. As we approached Teheran, we were met by 
 frequent istakballs, in the principal of which was Noitooz Khan, 
 one of the King's relations, and Master of the Ceremonies. The 
 mob increased greatly as we came to the town walls. At the gate, 
 through which we passed, were posted files of soldiers of the new corps, 
 dressed something like Russians and disciplined after the European 
 manner. We passed through small streets of miserable buildings, and 
 saw nothing that indicated royalty. At length we dismounted at the 
 house of Hajee Mahomed Hossein Khan, the second Minister, 
 where we were treated with chairs and tables, which had been provided 
 by our host. Though it had been his own residence, and though he 
 had just removed from it to make room for the Embassy, we found it a 
 mansion far less respectable than any that we had seen either at Shiraz 
 or Ispahan. All the riches are collected on the throne, and all around 
 is poverty, either real or affected. 
 
 The reception of His Majesty's Mission, from our entrance into 
 Persia to our arrival in the capital, was marked with the most ready 
 attention, and the highest honours from all classes ; and our journey 
 was now closed at Teheran by particular and gratifying distinctions. 
 
CHAR XL 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 visit from the second minister the court poet first 
 
 conperence ceremonial of the public introduction 
 
 presents to the king brought by the envoy order of 
 
 the procession presentation the / ring of persia 
 
 peacock throne — -the court the palace the prime 
 
 minister; his levee — Persian traveller — present to 
 the envoy ceremonies of the moharrem. 
 
 XT had been decided on the day of our arrival, that the first visit 
 was to be paid by the owner of the house in which we lodged, Hajee 
 Mahomed Hossein Khan, Ameen-ed-Doulah, or Lord Treasurer: 
 but on the next day the Minister seemed to make some hesitation in 
 according the compliment, and said that he rather expected it from 
 the Envoy. Sir Harford Jones, however, immediately obviated the 
 difficulty by representing that even among the most uncivilized nations 
 the host pays the first attentions to his guest. When this explanation 
 was satisfactorily received the Minister came, and with him the King's 
 Chief Poet, and some other officers of state. 
 We went through the common routine of compliments and presenta- 
 
 B B 
 
186 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 tions. When the poet was introduced to the Envoy, the conversation 
 turned on poetry and the works of the bard himself. He was extolled 
 above the skies ; all exclaimed that in this age he had not an equal on 
 earth, and some declared that he was superior even to Ferdousi, the 
 Homer of their country. To all this the author listened with very 
 complacent credulity, and at length recited some of his admired effu- 
 sions. His genius, however, is paid by something more substantial 
 than praise ; for he is a great favourite at court, and, according to my 
 Persian informers, receives from the King a gold tomaun for every 
 couplet ; and once indeed secured the remission of a large debt due to 
 the King by writing a poem in his praise. Yet the people, from whom 
 the supplies of this munificence are drawn, groan whenever they hear 
 that the poet's muse has been productive. Having exhausted the topics 
 of the weather, and the relative temperature and air of Teheran, Ispw 
 hail, and Shiraz, our host took his leave, telling us that the house was 
 our own, a common compliment of the East. In the evening the 
 Envoy went to a conference with him, and settled some points of im- 
 portance in the negociation. The ceremonial of the Envoy's 
 presentation to the King on the following day was then arranged; 
 and it was agreed that the audience should be exactly the same as that 
 given to Embassadors at Constantinople. 
 
 On the morrow accordingly we made every preparation of form for 
 our introduction ; and each appeared in green slippers with high heels, 
 and red cloth stockings, the court dress always worn before the King 
 Of Persia. Early in the morning we received a message desiring us 
 to be in readiness. At about twelve o'clock we proceeded to the 
 palace. The presents for the King were laid out on a piece of white 
 satin over a gold dish. It consisted of His Britannic Majesty's pic- 
 ture set round with diamonds ; a diamond of sixty-one carats valued 
 at twenty thousand pounds ; a small box, on the lid of which Windsor 
 Castle was carved in ivory ; a box made from the oak of the Victory, 
 with the battle of Trafalgar in ivory ; and a small blood-stone Mosaic 
 
TEHERAN. 187 
 
 box for opium. The King's letter (which was mounted in a highly 
 ornamented blue morocco box, and covered with a case of white satin, 
 and an elegant net) was also laid on a piece of white satin. The 
 Envoy carried the letter, and I the presents. When we went forwards 
 to place them in the takht-e-ravan (the litter), and again, when the 
 procession advanced, the trumpet sounded " God save the King/' 
 The order of the procession was as follows : 
 
 Officers of the King of Persia, 
 
 Led horses belonging to the Envoy, 
 
 Native officers of cavalry, swords drawn, 
 
 The trumpeter, 
 
 Four troopers, 
 
 The takht-e-ravan, 
 
 Guard of native cavalry, swords drawn, 
 
 Persian officers of the Envoy's household, in scarlet and gold, dismounted, 
 
 The Envoy, 
 
 The Secretary and Gentlemen of the Mission, 
 
 Guard of native cavalry under Cornet Willock, with drawn swords, 
 
 colours displayed, 
 Servants, &c. 
 
 The procession proceeded through miserable streets, which were 
 crowded by the curious, until we came to the large Maidan, at the 
 entrance of which were chained a lion and a bear. It then turned to 
 the right, and, crossing over a bridge, entered into the Ark or fortified 
 Palace of the King, the building which contains every part of the 
 royal household. Here the Envoy, as a mark of respect to the King of 
 Persia, ordered the guard to sheath swords. There were troops on 
 both sides, and cannon in several parts, and when we reached the first 
 court, two very thick lines of soldiers were ranged to form an avenue 
 for us. They were disciplined and dressed something after our manner, 
 
 BB 2 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 and went through their exercise as we passed. About thirty paces 
 from the Imperial gate the takht-e-ravan stopped : we then dismounted* 
 and the Envoy and I advancing uncovered to it, took out the King's 
 letter and the dish of presents. We proceeded through dark passages, 
 until we came to a small room, where were seated Norooz Khan 
 (a relation of the royal family, and Ish Agassi, or Master of the 
 Ceremonies) and Mahomed Hussein Khan Me rvee, a favourite 
 of the King, and a deputy Lord Chamberlain, with other noblemen, 
 who were waiting to entertain us. Our presentation was to take 
 place in the Khalvet Khoneh, or private Hall of Audience, for it 
 was then the Ashooreh of the month of Moharrem, a time of mourning, 
 when all matters of ceremony or of business are suspended at court : 
 the King of Persia therefore paid a signal respect to his Britannic 
 Majesty, in fixing the audience of his Envoy so immediately after 
 his arrival, and more particularly at a season when public affairs are 
 so generally intermitted. 
 
 After we had sat here about half an hour, smoked, and drank 
 coffee, the Master of the Ceremonies informed us that the King was 
 ready, and we proceeded again. We entered the great court of the 
 Dewan Khoneh, (the Hall of Public Audience) on all sides of which 
 stood officers of the household, and in the centre walk were files of the 
 new-raised troops, disciplined after the European manner, who went 
 through the platoon as we passed, while the little Persian drummers 
 beat then drums. The line presented arms to the Envoy, and the 
 officers saluted. In the middle of the Dewan Khoneh was the famous 
 throne built at Yezd of the marble of the place, on which the King 
 sits in public, but to which we did not approach sufficiently near for 
 any accurate observation. We ascended two steps on the left, and 
 then passed under arched ways into another spacious court filled in 
 the same manner ; but the men were mostly sitting down, and did 
 not rise as we approached. We crossed the centre of this court, and 
 came to a small and mean door, which led us through a dark and 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 189 
 
 intricate passage. When we were arrived at the end of it we found 
 a door still more wretched, and worse indeed than that of any English 
 stable. Here Norooz Khan paused, and marshaled us in order: 
 the Envoy, first, with the King's letter; I followed next with the 
 presents, and then at the distance of a few paces the rest of the 
 gentlemen. The door was opened, and we were ushered into a court 
 laid out in canals and playing fountains, and at intervals lined by 
 men richly dressed, who were all the grandees of the kingdom. At 
 the extremity of a room, open in front by large windows, was the 
 King in person. When we were opposite to him, the Master of the 
 Ceremonies stopped, and we all made low bows ; we approached 
 most slowly again, and at another angle stopped and bowed again. 
 Then we were taken immediately fronting the King, where again we 
 bowed most profoundly. Our Conductor then said aloud, 
 
 " Most mighty Monarch, Director of the World, 
 M Sir Harford Jones, Baronet, Embassador from your Majesty's 
 " Brother, the King of England, having brought a letter and some 
 " presents, requests to approach the dust of your* Majesty's feet: 
 " (Hag paee moharek bashed, literally,) that the dust of your feet may 
 " be fortunate." 
 
 The King from the room said in a loud voice, " Khosh Amedeed, 
 " you are welcome." We then took off our slippers, and went into the 
 royal presence. When we were entered, the Envoy walked up 
 towards the throne with the letter; Mirza Sheffeea, the Prime 
 Minister, met him half way, and taking it from him, carried it up and 
 placed it before the King : he then came back and received the pre- 
 sents from my hands, and laid them in the same place. The Envoy 
 then commenced a written speech to the King in English, which at 
 first startled his Majesty, but seemed to please him much, as soon as 
 Jaffer Ali Khan, the English Resident at Shiraz, came forward 
 and read it in Persian. The original was as follows : 
 
190 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 " May it please your Majesty, 
 
 " The King my Master, willing to renew and strengthen those 
 ties of friendship and alliance which subsisted between the Kings 
 of Persia and of England, has deputed me to the foot of your 
 Majesty's throne, with the expression of these His Royal wishes and 
 intentions. 
 
 " To have been charged with such a commission, I shall always 
 consider as the most distinguished and honourable event of my 
 life ; and, when I thus deliver to your Majesty the letter of my most 
 gracious and Royal Master, I feel confident in being honoured with 
 your Majesty's protection and favour. 
 
 " May the Great Disposer of all events grant your Majesty an 
 increase of honour and prosperity, and may the friendship and 
 interests of England and Persia henceforward become inseparable/' 
 
 The King then answered in return, that the states had been long 
 allied, and he hoped that the friendship would increase daily ; this the 
 Prime Minister explained. The King then said, " How does the King 
 " of England, my Brother ? Damaughist chauk est ? How is his 
 " health ?" He then asked, if this were the son of the former King, with 
 whose subjects he had had communications, and when he was told 
 that the same King was still reigning, he exclaimed, " the French 
 M have told lies in that also !" (For they had spread the report that 
 the King of England was dead.) The Envoy was then conducted to a 
 gilt and painted chair placed for him, an honour never paid before to 
 any Mission. I stood on his right; Jaffer Ali Khan on his left; 
 Mirza Sheffeea, the Prime Minister, next to me ; Hajee Maho- 
 med Hossein Khan, the Ameen-ed-Doulah, and Mirza Reza 
 Kooli, another of the Ministers, succeeded ; and the Master of the 
 Ceremonies closed the line. The other gentlemen stood in a row 
 behind. The King informed the Envoy that the choice which his 
 Brother the King of England had made of him as a Minister in 
 in Persia, was agreeable and acceptable to him ; he then inquired 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 191 
 
 about the Envoy's journey, and asked some very familiar and affable 
 questions. The gentlemen of the Mission were then separately intro- 
 duced by their names and situations ; the King said " Khosh Amedeed" 
 and we made very low bows. We returned with nearly the same 
 ceremonies as we entered the palace, except that in the outer court, 
 the Envoy was further honoured with a salute from three pieces of 
 cannon. 
 
 The King is about forty-five years of age ; He is a man of pleasing 
 manners and an agreeable countenance, with an aquiline nose, large eyes 
 and very arched eye-brows. His face is obscured by an immense 
 beard and mustachios, which are kept very black ; and it is only when 
 he talks and smiles that his mouth is discovered. His voice has once 
 been fine, and is still harmonious ; though now hollow, and obviously 
 that of a man who has led a free life. He appeared much pleased at 
 finding that the Envoy could talk to him in Persian, as he did indeed 
 after the first introductory speech; and when he was told that Sir 
 Harford read and studied much, he asked many questions on literary 
 subjects, for he professes to be a protector of learning and of learned 
 men. He was seated on a species of throne, called the takht-e-taoos, 
 or the throne of the peacock, which is raised three feet from the 
 ground, and appears an oblong square of eight feet broad and twelve 
 long. We could see the bust only of his Majesty, as the rest of his 
 body was hidden by an elevated railing, the upper work of the 
 throne, at the corners of which were placed several ornaments of vases 
 and toys. The back is much raised ; on each side are two square 
 pillars, on which are perched birds, probably intended for peacocks, 
 studded with precious stones of every description, and holding each a 
 ruby in their beaks. The highest part of the throne is composed of an 
 oval ornament of jewelry, from which emanate a great number of 
 diamond rays. Unfortunately, we were so far distant from the throne, 
 and so little favoured by the light, that we could not discover much of 
 its general materials. We were told, however, that it is covered with 
 gold plates, enriched by that fine enamel work so common in the orna- 
 
192 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 mental furniture of Persia. It is said to have cost one hundred 
 thousand tomauns. 
 
 We saw the whole court to disadvantage during our first visit : it was 
 then the days of mourning, and the King himself did not at that time 
 wear his magnificent and celebrated ornaments of precious stones. He 
 appeared in a catebee of a very dark ground, embroidered with large 
 gold flowers, and trimmed with a dark fur over the shoulders, down the 
 the breast and on the sleeves. On his head he wore a species of cylin- 
 drical crown covered with pearl and precious stones, and surmounted 
 by a light feather of diamonds. He rested on a pillow embossed 
 on every part with pearl, and terminated at each extremity by a thick 
 tassel of pearl. On the left of the throne was a basin of water in 
 Avhich small fountains played ; and on its borders were placed vases 
 set with precious stones. On the right, stood six of the King's sons 
 richly dressed : they were of different sizes and ages ; the eldest of 
 them (brother by the same mother to the Prince of Shiraz) was the 
 Viceroy of Teheran, and possessed much authority in the state. On 
 the left behind the basin stood five pages, most elegantly dressed in 
 velvets and silks : one held a crown similar to that which the King wore 
 on his head; the second held a splendid sword; the third a shield and 
 a mace of gold and pearls ; the fourth a bow and arrows set with 
 jewels; and the fifth a crachoir similarly ornamented. When the au- 
 dience was finished, the King desired one of his Ministers to 
 inquire from J after Ali Khan (the English Agent) what the 
 foreigners said of him, and whether they praised and admired his 
 appearance. 
 
 The room in which we were introduced to the King was painted and 
 gilded in every part. On the left from the window is a large painting 
 of a combat between the Persians and Russians, in which the King 
 appears at full length on a white horse, and makes the most conspi- 
 cuous figure in the whole composition. The Persians of course 
 are victorious, and are very busily employed in killing the Russians, 
 who seem to be falling a sufficiently easy prey : at a farther end of the 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 193 
 
 scene is the Russian army drawn up in a hollow square, and firing 
 their cannon and muskets without doing much apparent execution. 
 Facing this great picture, is another of equal dimensions, which re- 
 presents the Shah in the chase, having just pierced a deer with a 
 javelin. In other parts are portraits of women, probably the King's 
 favourites, who are dancing according to the fashion of the country. 
 
 On the 19th, the Envoy visited Mirza Sheffeea, the Prime 
 Minister. He is an old man, of mild and easy manners, who dis- 
 played more knowledge of general politics than any other person 
 whom we met in Persia. This was our first impression, and his 
 subsequent management of the negociation convinced us of its ac- 
 curacy. He was sufficiently acquainted with all the different courts 
 of Europe, and knew perfectly the name of every Minister employed 
 either within the state or on foreign service; and was deeply versed 
 in the particular interests of Persia. He had acquired something of 
 geography, when the French Embassador and suite were his guests ; 
 the Persians in general, however, live in the profbundest ignorance of 
 every other country. 
 
 In the Ministers assembly we met Mirza Reza, who had been sent 
 Embassador to Buonaparte, and who entertained us with an account of 
 Frangistoim, [Europe.] He expatiated Avith seeming ecstasy on every 
 thing which he had seen; and Mirza Sheffeea, who probably had 
 often heard his stories, said to Sir Harford Jones, " I can believe many 
 " of the things which he has related to us, but one circumstance staggers 
 " me; he gives an account of an ass, which he saw at Vienna, with stripes 
 " on its back ; that I shall not believe, unless you confirm it." When 
 Sir Harford told him that it was very true; that there were many 
 such animals at the Cape of Good Hope, he was satisfied. The tra- 
 veller proceeded to describe every part of the Continent: when he 
 talked of the beauties of Vienna, and particularly when he mentioned 
 that the streets were lighted up at night with globe lamps, one of the 
 company (whose face during the different relations had exhibited 
 signs of much astonishment, and sometimes doubt) stopped him, 
 
 c c 
 
 
194 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 and said, u I can believe any thing else but that they light the 
 " streets with globe lamps : you can never make me believe that. Pray 
 " who will pay for them?" 
 
 Mirza Sheffeea entertained us with a breakfast more elegant 
 than any of the similar meals to which we had been invited. 
 Just before we were rising to depart, the Minister, after having 
 talked much on the hopes which he cherished, that the friendship 
 of the two nations would long subsist, pulled a diamond ring 
 from off his own finger, and placed it on the Envoy's, saying, 
 " And that I may not be thought to be insincere in my profes- 
 " sions, let me beg of you to accept this as a pledge of my friend- 
 " ship for you ; and I intreat you to wear it for my sake." This gift, 
 unlike the generosity of Persian presents, was really handsome ; it was 
 a beautiful stone, perfect in all its parts. 
 
 On the 23d we were invited by the Jemidars (Indian officers) of 
 the Envoy's guard, to see that part of the ceremony of the Mohar- 
 rem which was appropriated to the day. We ascended an elevated 
 platform, surrounded by a great crowd of Persians and Indians, and 
 seated ourselves on Nummuds prepared for us. On one side was a 
 small ornamented temple, in which was represented the tomb of the 
 Jmaum; and all around it were the Indians who had changed their 
 regimentals for a variety of fantastical habits, after the fashion of 
 their own country. As every Indian can turn fakir, the greater part 
 had assumed that character to perform the ceremonial of this feast. 
 Many of them arose, and made long speeches (for every man has this 
 liberty) on the death of the Imaum, though they intermixed much extra- 
 neous matter. After this a Persian Mollah, a young man of a brisk 
 and animated appearance ascended a temporary pulpit, and commenced 
 a species of chaunted sermon proper for the day. At the end of every 
 period, he was answered in chorus by the multitude : and when he 
 was nearly at the end, and had reached the most pathetic part of his 
 harangue, he gave the signal for the people to beat their breasts, which 
 they did accordingly with much seeming sincerity, keeping time to his 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 195 
 
 chanting. When the Mollah had finished, a high and cumbrous pole 
 was brought into the scene. It was ornamented with different coloured 
 silks and feathers, and on the summit were fixed two curious weapons 
 made of tin, and intended to represent the swords of All This heavy 
 machine was handled by a man who, having made his obeisance to it 
 (by first bowing his head, then kissing it) took it up with both his 
 hands, and then amidst increasing applauses balanced it on his girdle, 
 on his breast, and on his teeth. Next, on a small temporary stage, ap- 
 peared several figures, who acted that part of the tragedy of the history 
 of the Imaum appointed for the day. It consisted of the death of 
 the two children of his sister Fatme, who, at the close of the 
 performance were killed by Ameer, one of the officers of Yezid. The 
 actors each held in their hands their speeches written on paper, which 
 they read with great action and vociferation, and excited much interest 
 in their audience, so that many sobbed and wept aloud ; and when the 
 ceremonial required the beating of breasts, many performed that part 
 with a species of ferocious zeal, which seemed to be jealous of louder 
 intonations from any breast than their own. In a part of the scene 
 were then introduced water-carriers, who were emblematical of the 
 thirst of the Imaum at his dying moments. They bore on their backs 
 bullocks' skins filled with water, no inconsiderable weight ; but in ad- 
 dition, they each received five well-grown boys, and under the united 
 burthen walked round a circle ten feet in diameter, three times con- 
 secutively. 
 
 On the following night the Envoy and I visited the Ameen-ed-Doidak 
 Hajee Mohamed Hossein Khan. At his house, Mirza Shef- 
 feea, Hajee Mohamed Hussein Khan Mervee, Fath Ali 
 Khan the poet, and other great men were assembled. The comme- 
 moration of the death of Hossein was performing in his court-yard; 
 and when the Mollah begun to read that part of the ceremonial 
 appointed for the day, the windows of the room, in which we 
 were seated, were thrown open, and we all changed our positions, and 
 sat with our faces towards the Mollah. His preaching lasted about am 
 
 c c 2 
 
196 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 hour, and was followed by the representation of that part of the history 
 of Hossein's death, which succeeded the scene performed on the 
 preceding evening. First came Hossein's horse, with his turban on 
 the saddle. Then, in a row on chairs, were seated Yezid, with three 
 others ; one of whom, dressed in the European habit, represented an 
 European Embassador, (Elchee Firing.) Zain Labedeen, Hossein's 
 brother, chained, and with a triangular wooden collar round his 
 neck, appeared as a captive before Yezid, and was followed by his 
 sister and children. Ye z id's executioner treated them with much 
 barbarity, repelling the women when they implored his protection; 
 and using the captives with great insult, at the instigation of Yezid. 
 When Zain Labedeen, by Yezid's firman, was brought to be 
 beheaded, the Elchee Firing implored his pardon, which instead of 
 appeasing the tyrant, only produced an order for putting the Elchee 
 himself to death. All this scene produced great lamentation among 
 the spectators, who seemed to vie with each other in the excess of 
 their weeping, and in the display of all the signs of grief. The Prime 
 Minister cried incessantly ; the Ameen-ed-Dowlah covered his face 
 with both his hands, and groaned aloud; Mahomed Hussein 
 Khan Mervee made at intervals very vociferous complaints. In 
 some I could perceive real tears stealing down their cheeks, but in 
 most I suspect that the grief was as much a piece of acting as the 
 tragedy which excited it. The King himself always cries at the cere- 
 mony ; his servants therefore are obliged to imitate him. When the 
 mob passed the window, at which we were seated, they again beat 
 their breasts most furiously. 
 
 25th. This day was the last of the Moharrem, when all those, 
 who had performed the ceremonies peculiar to this season, appeared 
 before the King. He was seated in a more elevated chamber, which 
 looked towards the Maidan. A tent had been pitched for the Envoy, 
 who was invited to attend, but he was too unwell to venture out. The 
 representation of the day happened, indeed, to be incomplete. A 
 strange circumstance had occurred at a village near Teheran, winch 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 197 
 
 so much frightened the man appointed to personify Hossein before 
 his Majesty, that in fear of the same fate he absconded. His alarm 
 was natural, for at this village the man who performed the part of 
 the executioner chose to act to the letter, what was only intended as a 
 very bloodless representation; and when Hossein was brought before 
 him to be beheaded, he cut off the poor actor's head. For this the 
 King fined him one hundred tomauns. His Majesty was pleased to 
 take much notice of the Indians, whose ceremonial seemed to affect 
 him much more than the others. Some keep the Moharrem three 
 days later. 
 
CHAP. XII. 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF THE NEGOCIATIONS TREATIES SIGNED — EX- 
 CHANGED PERSIAN LETTER TO THE ENVOY PUNISHMENT OF 
 
 THEFT — EVE OF THE NOROOZ PRESENTS DISTRIBUTED BY 
 
 THE KING NOROOZ OF ANCIENT PERSIA ENTERTAINMENT 
 
 GIVEN BY THE KING ANNUAL PRESENTS AMUSEMENTS OF 
 
 THE DAY — RACES BREED OF HORSES — THE ZOOMBAREEK AR- 
 TILLERY INTERVIEW WITH THE MINISTERS; WITH THE KING 
 
 KALAAT FROM THE KING FRENCH TREATY PUBLICITY OF 
 
 PERSIAN DIPLOMACY GATE OF THE PALACE DISMISSAL OF 
 
 THE FRENCH LETTER TO THE KING OF ENGLAND DIS- 
 PATCHES PROM THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF INDIA CONDUCT 
 
 OF THE PERSIAN MINISTERS; OF THE KING APPOINTMENT 
 
 AND HISTORY OF MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, ENVOY EXTRAORDI- 
 NARY TO ENGLAND. 
 
 A HE details of the subsequent progress of the negociation were daily 
 minuted in my journal ; but they involve so many personal considera- 
 tions that they could not be fairly published, even if I had not acquired 
 the information by confidential and official opportunities. I sacrifice, 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 199 
 
 therefore, but with deep regret the power of doing that justice to the 
 merits of the British Envoy which the simple narrative, without one com- 
 ment, would have afforded. I must content myself with adding, that Sir 
 Harford Jones succeeded in his great object; and concluded a treaty 
 with Persia (where the French influence had already baffled and driven 
 away one English agent) by which the French, in their turns, were ex- 
 pelled, and our influence was restored; at a time when, instead of co- 
 operation, he experienced only counteraction from the British Govern- 
 ment of India, and encountered all the rivalry of the active and able 
 emissaries of France. 
 
 On another motive I regret the omission of these notes. They would 
 have characterized, I believe with fidelity, the habits and modes of 
 thinking of a Persian statesman, and added an amusing document to 
 the annals of diplomacy. The conferences of the Plenipotentiaries 
 were carried on at times with the warmest contentions, at other 
 times interrupted by the loudest laughter on the most indifferent 
 subject. One night the parties had sat so long, and had talked so 
 much without producing conviction on either side, that the Plenipo- 
 tentiaries by a sort of un-official compact, fell asleep. The Prime 
 Minister and the Ameen-ed-Dowlah snored aloud in one place, and the 
 Envoy and I stretched ourselves along in another. Though on the 
 very first night of the discussions, the parties had separated with a full 
 conviction that every thing was settled ; and though the Prime 
 Minister himself, laying his hand on the Envoy's shoulder, had said 
 to him, " You have already completed what the King of England 
 " himself in person could not have done ;" yet the very next confer- 
 ence, they came forwards with pretensions alike new and extravagant. 
 At the close of that meeting however, the Chief Secretary was ap- 
 pointed to bring the Treaty written fair to the Envoy on the following 
 morning. Instead of this, the Prime Minister sent a large citron, and 
 inquired after the Envoy's health. On another occasion, the Persian 
 Plenipotentiaries swore that every thing should be as the Envoy 
 
200 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 wished, and instantly wrote out a corresponding form of Treaty, to 
 which (rather than start a difficulty about indifferent words) he 
 assented. They were then so anxious that he should immediately 
 attend them to the King's Summer Palace to sign, that they would not 
 give him time to translate it into English : he however refused to sign 
 a Persian treaty, till the English copy was ready. They so little 
 expected this refusal, that they had already, by the King's desire, 
 sent thirty male-loads of fruits, sherbets, and sweetmeats to celebrate 
 the event at the new palace ; and were of course displeased and disap- 
 pointed. At another time, in the middle of a very serious conversation, 
 the Prime Mnister stopped short, and asked the Envoy very coolly 
 to tell him tie history of the world from the creation. This was in- 
 tended as a joke upon one of the Secretaries, who was then writing 
 the annals of the reign of the present King. On another occasion, in 
 which the same Minister was deeply and personally interested, and in 
 which he invoked every thing sacred to attest his veracity, and con- 
 vince the Envoy, (now, " by the head of the King f then, " by 
 " Mecca " tlen, " by the salt of Fatti Att Shah") he turned to 
 me in a pause of his discourse, and asked if I were married, and begun 
 some absurd story. 
 
 These circumstances, however characteristic of the people, may 
 appear trifling in themselves, or at least indicative of minds, over 
 which an Eiropean Negociator might easily attain an ascend- 
 ancy. It is necessary therefore to premise, that the real diffi- 
 culties of oui situation were never diminished by any deficiency of 
 address and diplomatic finesse in the Persian Plenipotentiaries. 
 Every fresh cispatch which the French received from Europe, while 
 it contributed to raise the spirits and activity of our rivals them- 
 selves, enablec the Persians also to assume a higher tone of decision 
 between our contending interests, while the only communications from 
 his own countrymen which Sir Ha it ford Jones received in Persia, 
 were those which would have baffled the hopes and discouraged the 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 201 
 
 enterprize of almost any other man. In the alternation of the dispo- 
 sitions of the court of Persia, he retained the same firm and unbending 
 policy, and when the influence of the French appeared to be regaining 
 all its preponderance, he made no one concession which he had not 
 offered in more favourable circumstances, and finally succeeded in 
 concluding a treaty almost on his own original terms, while the French 
 were signing every demand which the Persians made. 
 
 As a more detailed specimen however of the conduct of the negocia- 
 tion, I can reserve a portion of the concluding scene. 
 
 At length a night was fixed in which the Treaties were to be signed. 
 The Envoy and I repaired to the house of the Ameen-ed-Doulah, where 
 we found him and his Nazir or Superintendant, the Prime Minister, 
 the Chief Secretary, and the Persian Agent for English affairs at 
 Shiraz. The conversation after a short time fixed on learned subjects. 
 The Persians are extremely fond of history and geography, though in 
 general they are profoundly ignorant of both. The Prime Minister 
 went through in a breath the whole history of Russia. We then 
 entered on matters of chronology, which introduced a discussion 
 on the relative antiquity of particular remains, as Persepolis and 
 Nakshi Rust am. The Chief Secretary, who seemed to have read much 
 Persian history, knew that part which related to Shapour, and men- 
 tioned that he had carried his arms into Syria, and had taken prisoner 
 a Roman Emperor. Yet the subject of the sculptures at Nakshi Rustam 
 had still escaped their observation; and they had still, according to 
 the popular belief, substituted Rustam for Shapour, as the hero of 
 those representations. To this conversation, supper succeeded ; as 
 usual it was short. 
 
 The Treaties were then brought in, and read and approved. The 
 date was still wanting. Sir Harjord Jones desired them to insert 
 the usual form, commencing, " In witness whereof/ 1 &c. This how- 
 ever the Persians could not understand, and objected strenuously to the 
 word " witnesses," who were never introduced except into a court of 
 
 D D 
 
202 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 justice. At length the Envo} r produced the precedent of treaties signed 
 at Constantinople, where the form is invariably used. They acquiesced 
 immediately : but another difficulty succeeded, " Should the year of 
 our Lord precede the Hejera ?" The Secretary proposed that in our 
 copy of the Treaty, our era should stand first, and that the order 
 should be reversed in that which they were to keep. At last the 
 Minister, who suspected that the Secretary was inclined to create 
 difficulties, finished every argument by declaring that "as Jesus 
 " Christ lived before Mahomed, there could be no doubt but that 
 " his tarikh should stand first/' The Secretary, who is esteemed one 
 of the 'first composers, and one of the best penmen in Persia, resisted 
 the plainness of the language, which Sir Harford dictated for the 
 insertion of the date, and produced something so unlike a diploma- 
 tic style, and so full of figurative expressions, that it was rejected 
 totally on our parts. Mirza Sheffeea then took up the pen, and 
 drew up a simpler formulary, which, with a few emendations, was 
 admitted. The Secretary was then desired to copy it into the Treaty ; 
 but he seemed indignant to find that a date was only to be plain 
 matter of fact, and. begged hard to make it a little finer. Mirza 
 Sheffeea however desired him to write as he had written, and this 
 was at length accomplished with great difficulty. Then came the 
 business of signing. The Prime Minister, Mir zaSiieffee a, first took 
 up the pen, and put down his own name and that of his brother Plenipo- 
 tentiary, who was unable to sign himself. After signing, came sealing. 
 The Secretary applied the seals, Mirza Sheffeea crying out to 
 him, Bezun, Bezun, or, " strike, strike/' as if lie had been striking a 
 bargain in the bazar. In the act of signing and sealing the parties 
 made frequent exclamations, such as, " God grant the friendship 
 " between the two states may be binding \" " May this prove a for? 
 " tunate day." " Let us hope that nothing may ever break this bond/' 
 To all which every one present emphatically and repeatedly resounded 
 " Inch Allah ! God grant it !" 
 
■ 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 203 
 
 It had been agreed, that we should severally exchange the Treaties 
 which each had written. When all was over, the Envoy took up our 
 copy, and desired the Mi?*za to take up the other, that a formal ex- 
 change might be made. At this moment circumstances arose which 
 closed the conference abruptly. The nature of those circumstances 
 called forth all the dignified firmness of the Envoy, which in their 
 future intercourse produced the most striking courtesy and attention 
 from the Persian Ministers. The business was subsequently renewed 
 on the evening of the 15th, and in that meeting the Treaties were finally 
 exchanged. 
 
 On the 18th, the Envoy received a letter from an officer of high dis- 
 tinction at Tabriz. It is singular in itself, but it may have a new inte- 
 rest in the translation, which was made for me by a Persian (Jaffer 
 Ali Khan), and which is given in his own unaltered words : 
 
 " May you, the high in station, exalted in dignity, clothed with 
 splendor, the great magnificent in rank, distinguished for friendly 
 disposition, cream of the nobles of the Christian faith, and the select 
 among the great of the worshippers of the Messiah. May your ho- 
 nour increase, and may you be always in safety from the evil world, 
 and always under the protection of God Almighty. And may He 
 grant you all the happiness belonging to this world and the next, and 
 (may you) be ever merry by the blessing of God. I write you as 
 follows: — 1st. I don't know what complaint I am to make of my bad 
 fortune, that, notwithstanding the great desire I had to see you, the 
 Creator of the Universe had brought you to this country at a time when 
 I am not present there. 2d. I don't know what excuse to make to 
 you, that while you are there, owing to my being engaged to the 
 Russian affairs, I can't prove myself useful to you in order to please 
 myself. 3d. I have no remedy, as there are no fine articles at Ader- 
 bigian that I may send you, in order to prove of my regard to 
 you ; but the state of England and Russians are enemies to one an- 
 other, therefore I employ my nights and days to do injury to the 
 Russians, which is the only content I have at present. I hope that, 
 
 d d 2 
 
204 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 " in the course of a short time, I may be able to send you some Russian 
 " heads as rarities, and as a fine present from me to you, and I hope 
 " to be able to meet with some opportunity to repair to the King's 
 " Court, where I may be happy to see you, and I will have a verbal 
 " conversation with you." 
 
 A chatter, belonging to one of the gentlemen of our party, having 
 stolen some money, the silver head of a kaleoon and other ornaments, 
 was ordered to receive the bastinado on the soles of his feet. He was 
 first thrown on his back, and his feet inserted through a cord, which 
 fastened them to a long pole, and then exposed horizontally. Four stout 
 feroshes then bastinadoed his feet until he confessed that another fellow 
 had been his accomplice, who was also punished in the same manner. 
 If the criminals had been delivered up to the King's Nasakchee Bashee, 
 they would have lost their lives ; for the King never pardons theft, and 
 orders a convicted thief to be executed instantly. The mode is as fol- 
 lows : two young trees are by main strength brought together at their 
 summits, and there fastened with cords together. The culprit is then 
 brought out, and his legs are tied with ropes, which are again carried up 
 and fixed to the top of the trees. The cords that force the trees toge- 
 ther are then cut ; and, in the elasticity and power of this spring, the 
 body of the thief is torn asunder, and left thus to hang divided on each 
 separate tree. The inflexibility of the King in this point has given 
 to the roads a security, which, in former times, was little known. 
 
 The King sent by one of his feroshes a present of two mountain goats 
 to the Envoy. The man was offered one hundred piastres for bringing 
 them, which he rejected as an inadequate reward ; former Missions 
 indeed had taught him to expect more profusion. 
 
 The 20th of March was the eve of the Norooz ; and as a part of the 
 ceremony of the season, the Arneen-ed-Doidah sent the Envoy a pre- 
 sent. It consisted of two plates of money, one of silver coins, and the 
 other of gold ; several trays of sweetmeats, one of which was decked 
 out in flowers and gilded ornaments like a temple; and two wax can- 
 dles, which were accompanied by flowers exquisitely imitated in wax. 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 205 
 
 The whole present amounted, by our computation, to six hundred 
 and fifty piastres, for which, according to the return which we made, 
 we paid most dearly. The wretched traffic of presents places the Per- 
 sian character in a very unfavourable light. The meannesses and obli- 
 gations to which they will submit for the sake of a present, and their 
 jealousies and anxieties about its amount, are at least very ridiculous. 
 The presents which the King distributes on the Nooroz are costly ; to 
 each of the chief men and officers of his court he sends a kalaat, (a dress 
 of honour, consisting of a complete suit of brocade with a shawl); and 
 he sometimes gives a horse and its caparisons. The kalaats indeed arc 
 furnished in specified contributions, by particular cities, (Yezd, Shiraz, 
 and Ispahan,) and by the Ameen-ed-Doidah ; and each kalaat is the 
 means of paying the servant who may bear it; as the present, which 
 he invariably receives as a perquisite in return is deducted from his- wages. 
 The number of the kalaats is reckoned at nine hundred ; and their 
 value, on an average of three hundred piastres, will amount to two hun- 
 dred and seventy thousand. Besides this, the King distributes hand- 
 fuls of money at his public Dewan to those who attract his favour. A 
 large vase of gold and silver coins mixed stands at his elbow ; in this 
 he puts his hand, and taking out as much as he can grasp, pours it 
 into the two extended palms of the man who is lucky enough to engage 
 his notice. 
 
 On the 21st, the weather, which had been unfavourable, cleared up, 
 and a fine morning was enlivened by three discharges of artillery in 
 honour of the Norooz. 
 
 This festival is one of those which have remained in opposition to 
 Mahomedanism, and was one of the first kept sacred in Persia in the 
 ages of the worship of fire. Richardson says, " that their chief festf- 
 ** vals were those about the equinoxes ; the next were those of water 
 " at Midsummer, and of fire at the Winter solstice. The first was the 
 " Norooz, which commenced with their year in March, and lasted six 
 " days, during which all ranks seem to have participated in one gene- 
 
206 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 " ral joy. The rich sent presents to the poor : all were dressed in their 
 " holiday clothes, and all kept open house : and religious processions, 
 " music, dancing, a species of theatrical exhibition, rustic sports, and 
 " other pastimes presented a continued round of varied amusement. 
 " Even the dead and the ideal things were not forgotten ; rich viands 
 " being placed on the tops of houses and high towers, on the flavour of 
 " which the Peris and spirits of their departed heroes and friends were 
 " supposed to feast/'* To this day the festival of the Norooz retains 
 many of these ceremonies, though it has changed its character since 
 the rise of Mahomedanism in Persia, and ceases to be connected with 
 the religion of the country. It commences when the sun just enters 
 Aries, and lasts three days ; it begins the spring of nature, though it 
 no longer commences the civil year of the Persians, who, like all other 
 Mahomedans, have adopted the lunar calculation. It is still the most 
 solemn of the Persian festivals, as it was in the day of Chardin. 
 Mr. Bruce informed me of a singular fact, that it was not observed 
 at all on the coast of the Persian Gulph. At Teheran, however, we 
 saw it celebrated with great festivity. It differs from the Norooz of 
 ancient Persia in the diminution of its duration; and in the absence of 
 all religious observance : there are no processions and still less any 
 offerings of viands to the dead. But all on meeting in the morning 
 embrace and say, " Ayd mobarek ; happy festival !" as in England we 
 wish our friends a merry Christmas. The rich still send presents to the 
 poor, all are still dressed in their holiday clothes, and sports of every 
 kind are preserved in the season. 
 
 22d. We visited the Ameen-ed-Doulah. He was seated in his dewan 
 khonth, dressed in the kalaat which he had received from the King. 
 His mujlis or assembly was crowded by Khans of the neighbouring 
 districts, who had repaired to the city to pay their compliments to their 
 
 * Richardson's Dissertation, 8vo. p. 184. 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 207 
 
 superior on the Norooz. These, indeed, were far from conforming to 
 the custom of displaying their holiday clothes, and whether through 
 policy or through want, bore on their dress all the marfcs of poverty 
 and misery. 
 
 On the 24th, the Envoy was invited to an entertainment, which the 
 King gave. We proceeded to the palace, and having gone through 
 the great gate, leading into the Ark, or more immediate residence of 
 the King, we dismounted at the gate which opens into the Maid an 
 and the first great court of the palace. Opposite to this gate is 
 another; in an open room at the summit of which, the King was 
 seated. We walked across the court, and were led through many 
 passages, and ascended many intricate flights of steps, until we 
 reached the roof of the buildings on the right of the Shah. Over this 
 roof, which in many places was of difficult access, we scrambled, until 
 we came to a little tent prepared for us, which was pitched on the 
 summit of a door-way, close to the King's room. 
 
 The court, in which the different exhibitions were to take place, 
 appeared to us to be near two hundred feet square. On each side of 
 the great gate were sixteen arched compartments, each of which 
 opened into a small room. In the centre was a high pole, with a truck 
 at the top, and small projections for the convenience of ascending it. 
 This pole is for the purpose of horse exercises, and shooting at the 
 mark. Close under the room in which the Shah was seated, was a 
 basin of water, on the other side of which were erected the poles and 
 ropes of a rope-dancer. In a circle round these, were fire- works placed 
 in various forms and quantities. Four figures of paper and linen 
 dressed like Europeans were erected on high, and surrounded with 
 fire-works. At a distance were elephants of paper, stuck all over 
 with rockets ; on all the walls were rockets ; and, in short, fire-works 
 were placed in every direction. Opposite to the Shah in two lines 
 were the new raised troops, with drummers standing in a row at the 
 furthermost extremity. In the centre of these was the Nasakchee 
 Bashce, who appeared as the director of the entertainment. He had 
 
208 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 a stick in his hand, and wore on his head a gika, a distinguishing 
 ornament borne by particular people only, to whom the King grants 
 the liberty. •* 
 
 The first ceremony was the introduction of the presents from the 
 different provinces. That from Prince Hossein Ali Mirza, Gover- 
 nor of Shiraz, came first. The Master of the Ceremonies walked up, 
 having with him the conductor of the present, and an attendant, who, 
 when the name and titles of the donor had been proclaimed, read 
 aloud from a paper the list of the articles. The present from Prince 
 Hossein Ali Mirza, consisted of a very long train of large trays 
 placed on men's heads, on which were shawls, stuffs of ali sorts, pearls, 
 &c. ; then many trays filled with sugar, and sweetmeats ; after 
 that many mules laden with fruit, &c. Sec. Sec. The next present was 
 from Mahomed Ali Khan, Prince of Hamadan, the eldest born of 
 the King's sons, but who had been deprived by his father of the suc- 
 cession, because the Georgian slave who bore him was of an extraction 
 less noble than that of the mothers of the younger Princes. His 
 present accorded with the character which is assigned to him ; it 
 consisted of pistols and spears, a string of one hundred camels, and as 
 many mules. After this came the present from the Prince of Yezd, 
 another of the King's sons, which consisted of shawls and the silken 
 stuffs, the manufacture of his own town. Then followed that of the 
 Prince of Mesched; and last of all, and the most valuable, was that 
 from Hajee Mohamed Hossein Khan, Ameen-ed-Doulah. It 
 consisted of fifty mules, each covered with a fine Cashmire shawl, and 
 each carrying a load of one thousand tomauns. 
 
 The other offerings had been lodged in the Sandeck Khona, (literally, 
 Trunk Office). This was conveyed in a different direction to the 
 Treasury. Each present, like the first, contained a portion of sugar 
 and sweetmeats. When all the train had passed in procession, one by 
 one before the King, the amusements commenced. 
 
 First came the rope-dancer : a boy about twelve years old, ascended 
 the rope, and paced it backwards and forwards. The same rope was 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 209 
 
 continued to the roof of the room in which the King was seated, 
 making first an angle of forty degrees, and then, in a second flight, an 
 angle of fifty degrees, with its horizontal extension. The boy balancing 
 himself with his pole, walked up the first steadily, and with very 
 little more difficulty ascended the second, while the music below ani- 
 mated him in his progress. He then, with the same steadiness 
 descended, walking backwards, and safely reached the horizontal 
 rope. After this a man in a kind of petticoat began a dance of the 
 most extravagant attitudes. A large elephant which had been in 
 waiting amid the crowd, was next brought forward, was made to give 
 a shriek, and then to kneel down, paying as it were his selaam to the 
 King. A company of wrestlers succeeded ; and every one, who threw 
 his antagonist on his back, ran before the King and received a tomaun. 
 When ten such feats had been successively performed, a man led in a 
 bear, with which in his turn he wrestled. But the bear always had the 
 advantage ; and when his antagonist attempted to throw him into the 
 basin of water, the bear got so much out of humour, that if he had not 
 been deprived of his teeth, he would probably have demolished the 
 unlucky assailant. Then rams were brought into the arena, and in 
 several couples fought for some time with much obstinacy. A poor 
 ox was next introduced, and after him a young lion. The scene, 
 which we had witnessed at Shiraz, was here repeated. The ox was 
 scarcely suffered to walk, before the lion was let loose upon him; 
 twice was the lion dragged off, and twice permitted to return to the 
 charge, which he always made in the rear, and of which the success 
 was secure and easy. A less bloody display succeeded ; a bear was 
 brought forwards by a company of looties or mountebanks, and 
 danced for some time to the rude noise and music of its leaders. 
 Then came a man who, on his bare head balanced, among other things, 
 two high vases full of water, which another was to break with his cane. 
 To all these different performers, the King threw different sums, as 
 he was severally pleased with their tricks and feats. At sunset his 
 Majesty retired to say his Namaz, (prayers) when his Nokara Khanah, 
 
 E E 
 
210 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 that is his trumpets and drums, played as usual. At this moment 
 the Envoy retired, happy to escape the noise and smoke of the fire- 
 works, which were to close the entertainment. 
 
 25th. The King held the races, at which also the Envoy was desired 
 to be present. From the Casvin gate, at which we left the city, we 
 proceeded about half a mile to a fine even part of the country, where 
 a tent was pitched for the King. All his new raised troops were 
 arranged on the right and in front of it. On the left, facing the tent, 
 we stood in a line, near the Ministers, Mirza Sheffeea, and the 
 Ameen-ed-Doidah. Directly opposite his Majesty were eight of his 
 sons, richly dressed in velvet and gold-brocade coats, all glittering 
 with gold and jewels. One of these carried by his side his father's 
 bow and his quiver thickly set with precious stones. The Master of 
 the Ceremonies, in the field, was a young Persian who carried an 
 ornamented and gilded spear. One or two of the Princes were 
 mounted on white horses, the legs, belly, and lower parts of the buttock 
 of which were dyed a rich orange colour, terminated at the top by 
 little flowers. The Persians much admire this species of disfigurement, 
 nor in the East is their taste singular. At about fifty paces distance 
 from the Princes, stood the King's band of music with a troop of 
 lootics and their monkies. The state elephants were on the ground, on 
 the largest of which the King, seated in a very elegant howdar, rode 
 forth from the city. 
 
 When he alighted he was saluted by a discharge of zomhoorehs ; 
 the salute indeed is always fired when the King alights from his horse 
 or mounts. In one of the courts of the palace at Shiraz we had pre- 
 viously noticed this artillery. The zomboorek is a small gun mounted 
 on the back of a camel. The conductor from his seat behind guides the 
 animal by a long bridle, and loads and fires the little cannon without 
 difficulty. He wears a coat of orange-coloured cloth, and a cap with 
 a brass front; and his camel carries a triangular green and red flag. 
 Of these there were one hundred on the field ; and Avhen their salute 
 was fired they retreated in a body behind the King's tent, where the 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 211 
 
 camels were made to kneel down. Collectively they make a fine mili- 
 tary appearance. This species of armament is common to many 
 Asiatic states, yet the effect at best is very trifling. The Persians, how- 
 ever, place great confidence in their execution; and Mirza Shef- 
 feea, in speaking of them to the Envoy, said, M These are what the 
 " Russians dread." 
 
 No exhibition could be more miserable than the races, the immediate 
 object of our excursion. They are intended to try rather the bottom 
 than the speed of the horses. The prize is what the King may be 
 pleased to give to the first jockies. On this occasion there were two 
 sets, that came severally from a distance of twelve and twenty-one 
 miles ; each consisted of about twelve ill-looking horses, mounted by 
 boys of ten or twelve years old, who were wretchedly dressed in a shirt 
 and pair of breeches, boots and cap. In each race the King's horses 
 won, of course. Horses are trained in this manner for a reason suffi- 
 ciently obvious, in a country where the fortunes of the state and of 
 every individual are exposed to such sudden changes. Every one likes 
 to be prepared with some mode of escape, in case of pursuit ; now 
 horses thus inured to running will continue on the gallop for a day to- 
 gether, whilst a high conditioned and well-fed animal would drop at 
 the end of ten miles. For this reason the King always keeps himself 
 well supplied with a stud of this description, as a resource in the event 
 of an accident. When, on the death of his uncle, Aga Mahomed 
 Khan, He was summoned (by Hajee Ibrahim, the Minister of the 
 late King) to assume as the heir the sovereignty, he thus travelled from 
 Skiraz to Teheran, a distance of five hundred miles in six days. 
 
 In the interval of the race, the King sent the Master of the Cere- 
 monies to desire the Envoy and his suite to come before him. We dis- 
 mounted from our horses, and proceeded with the Prime Minister and 
 the Ameen-ed-Doulah, before the King's presence, making low bows as 
 we advanced. When we were about twenty steps from his Majesty we 
 stopped and made our final low bow. The King was seated on a high 
 
 E e 2 
 
212 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 chair under a canopy, the sides of which were formed of gold cloth, 
 and of looking glasses. The chair itself was beautifully embroidered 
 with enamelled flowers and other ornaments ; on one of the arms was 
 a pot of flowers, and on the other a vase of rose-water. On one side 
 was spread a velvet and gold cloth carpet with the pearl pillow. The 
 King was in his riding dress, a close coat of purple velvet embroidered 
 in pearl, the sheep-skin cap, and a pair of Bulgar boots. As he was 
 placed in a good light, we had an excellent view of him. His manners 
 are perfectly easy and unconstrained, with much dignity and affability. 
 He first inquired after the Envoy's health, of whose good qualities the 
 two Ministers then entered into an immense eulogium, praising him in 
 terms the most extravagant. Then the names of all the party were 
 mentioned to the King, and each was asked how he did. All the con- 
 versation was complimentary ; and when the comparison was made be- 
 tween us and the French, the King said, " they were haivans, beasts, 
 " wild men, savages. These are gentlemen." 
 
 After the whole was over we returned to our horses. The King then 
 mounted, and the salute was fired from the zombooreks. His infantry 
 first marched off the ground ; they were dressed differently in black or 
 in crimson-velvet jackets, in loose breeches of crimson or yellow silk, 
 black sheep-skin caps and light boots. The King passed us at a dis- 
 tance on horseback, and we made our bows. He was preceded by a 
 body of chatters, who are dressed with fantastical caps on their heads, 
 and lively coloured clothes. No other person was near him, nor in- 
 deed is any other permitted. The King of Persia is an insulated 
 being, alone in his court. How different is the state of the Sultan at 
 Constantinople, who is almost concealed by the crowds of his attendants. 
 The Princes followed, and then the mob. After this we repaired to a 
 tent, where the Ameen-ed-Doulah had prepared a Persian breakfast 
 for us. 
 
 On the 26th, the negotiating parties met to discuss a point reserved 
 in the Treaty. The conference terminated without any decision : and 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 213 
 
 in this state of uncertainty the question remained for three days, when 
 we were told that it had been decided to our satisfaction ; and that I 
 was to see the King on the 30th, and to depart for England as soon 
 after as possible. 
 
 On the 30th, accordingly the Envoy and I breakfasted with the Mi- 
 nister, in the expectation of our introduction to the King. His Ma- 
 jesty, however, had gone to ride to Shcm-Iroun (" the Candle of Persia,") 
 a village under the mountain, celebrated for the beauty of the situation 
 and the salubrity of its air. We remained with the Minister all the 
 morning. The Ameen-ecl-Doulah was there; his spirits were depressed 
 by the intelligence which he had received from Ispahan, (the govern- 
 ment of his son) that the melting of the snow and rain had so swoln 
 the Zaiande-rood, that it had overflowed and injured the country to the 
 amount of three lacks of piastres. It had destroyed, besides many 
 houses and buildings, a large bund or dam, nearly opposite to the 
 Chahar Bagh No. The bund was the work of Abbas, and had cost 
 about twenty times the labour of that at Kohrood. The whole damage 
 was reckoned at thirty lacks of piastres. Kanauts were filled up, and 
 large tracts of rich and productive land were rendered useless for the 
 year. At Ispahan, the water filled the under arches of the fine bridge 
 of Aliverdy Khan, that goes into the great Chahar Bagh. This inunda- 
 tion extended over many districts. An express announced that the river 
 at Pool Dallauk was over the bridge : and that the country was in many 
 places so inundated as to be only passable with much danger and 
 difficulty. The great salt swamp was particularly deep. 
 
 The 13th of the month Sefer is looked upon as most unlucky among 
 the Persians ; they do not keep in the house on tiiis day, but rather 
 walk out into the fields, in order that nothing may disturb their 
 humours, for a quarrel with any one on this day will entail misfortune 
 through the remainder of the year. 
 
 On the 31st we went to the King;. At this audience He was seated 
 in a room in a square court called the Gidistan, a name derived from 
 the roses, with which (intermixed with cypress and chenar trees) it was 
 
214 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 planted. We were introduced into it by the two Ministers, through a 
 door small and mean, like those in other parts of the palace, and which 
 are obviously adapted for more easy defence in the event of any 
 sudden alarm. In the centre of the garden is a Koola-frangee, built 
 by Aga Mahomed Khan. The garden itself was arranged in 
 squares, with some miserable palings. Peacocks and hens, great 
 favourites in Persia, were every where walking about. After having 
 paraded through the garden in various directions, (for this also is a part 
 Of the ceremonial) we finally approached the presence. We took 
 off our slippers at some distance, and walking on the bare stones, 
 stepped up a difficult staircase into a small and elegant room, in which 
 his Majesty was seated. At the foot of the staircase was a row of 
 eunuchs ; and at the top several officers. At our entrance the King 
 desired us to be seated, but we excused ourselves and stood. His 
 Majesty's throne was that on which he had appeared at our first 
 audience. The Envoy had complained to the Minister, that on that 
 occasion we had no favourable opportunity of seeing the King ; and 
 his Majesty had probably been informed of the disappointment, and 
 had condescended in consequence to gratify our curiosity by trans- 
 fering his throne to a more favourable position, and displaying himself 
 upon it in all the magnificence of his state. He was dressed in a light 
 coat of scarlet and gold cloth ; on his shoulders were large layers of 
 pearl and precious stones. On each of his arms were three rows of 
 jewels called the bazebunds ; these are his finest jewels, one of which 
 (the Dereea Nore) is one of the largest in the world. Though set in a 
 clumsy manner, they had a rich and royal effect. Round his waist he 
 wore a band about four inches broad of pearl, connected in the middle 
 by a clasp, the centre of which was an emerald of an immense size. 
 In this band he wore a brilliant dagger ; from it also dangled a tassel of 
 pearl, which he continually kept in his hand as a plaything. His 
 kaleoon is a beautiful toy : it stood in the left corner of the throne, and 
 was one blaze of precious stones. 
 
 On the right of his throne stood four pages, one holding his crown, 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 215 
 
 another his shield and mace, a third his bow and arrows, and a fourth 
 his sword. All these are beautiful, particularly his crown : it is in 
 every part thickly inlaid with pearl, emeralds, rubies and diamonds ; on 
 the summit is a gika of precious stones, on the sides of which are 
 plumes of herons' feathers. 
 
 His Majesty talked with much familiarity ; and asked us, what news 
 from the Yenzee Dwieea, that is, the new world, as they call America. 
 He inquired, " What sort of a place is it? How do you get at it ? Is 
 " it under ground, or how ?" He then talked of our government ; and 
 appeared aware that the Kings of England could do little without the 
 intervention of their parliament. In the explanations which followed 
 this subject, his Persian Majesty was visibly astonished that any limit- 
 ation could be placed to Royal authority. The conversation turned ; 
 and the King talked of Buonaparte, and launched out in general 
 terms against the French. After the introduction of some other topics, 
 His Majesty dismissed us by a nod of his head, desiring that a kalaat 
 might be given to me, and that a Mehmandar might be appointed to 
 attend me on my journey. 
 
 On the 4th April his Persian Majesty sent me my kalaat or dress of 
 of honour: it consisted of a kaba or brocade coat that covered me all 
 over ; a small outer coat trimmed with fiir over the shoulders and down 
 the back, called the coordee; a brocade sash; and (what I believe is 
 considered a great distinction) a sword. The King was pleased to ask 
 what I should like best to receive as a mark of his Royal regard, and 
 when it was left to his Majesty's decision, He sent me a sword which he 
 had worn himself. His own name was upon it, by which all his Majesty's 
 swords are known. All these things were contained in a piece of white 
 linen (the sword lying on the top), and were brought in some state by 
 an officer of the royal household. When they were put into my hands, 
 I carried them respectfully to my head, and then retired and put on 
 the different articles. When I came out again lull dressed, every body 
 congratulated me by 'd"moobarek bashea," ("good luck attend you/ J ) I 
 continued in .this garb for the remainder of the day, although, according 
 
216 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 to Persian etiquette, I ought to have worn it for the three days following 
 the investiture. 
 
 In the evening we went to the Prime Minister's, and were shewn the 
 Treaty with France, signed and ratified at Finkenstcin, by Buona- 
 parte, in May 1807- It was written on vellum, in a beautiful French 
 hand, and inserted in a cover of black velvet, curiously and elegantly 
 wrought with a spread eagle at each corner, and the initial N in the 
 centre, in a wreath of gold embroidery. The Great Seal was pendant 
 from it, inserted in a plain gold box. The treaty was countersigned 
 by Talleyrand; and by Maret, the Plenipotentiary appointed to 
 treat with Mi rz a Reza, the Persian Plenipotentiary. I copied this 
 document (consisting of fourteen articles) in the room, and as we went 
 away, the Minister sent the Envoy the Commercial Treaty, w r hich con- 
 tained twenty-eight articles. 
 
 The 6th was observed as a holiday among the Persians, as the 
 commemoration of that, when Hossein's head, which had been severed 
 from his body by Yezid at Kerbelai, was buried, after an interval of 
 forty days. 
 
 The affairs of Persia are conducted with a publicity which would ill 
 accord with the diplomacy of Europe. As that stipulation, which 
 was the surest evidence of the permanent dispositions of the Court, re- 
 mained unfulfilled ; the Envoy on the 9th of April dispatched, by 
 Jaffer Ali Khan and myself, an official note on the subject to the 
 Ministers, which he desired them to lay before the King. We carried 
 it to the Der a Khoneh Shah, or gate of the King's palace, where there 
 are offices for the Ministers and Secretaries to transact the business of 
 the state ; and where they assemble every day to be ready whenever 
 the King may call them. Here we seated ourselves in the public room 
 among all the officers of the court, waiting for Mirza Sheffeea, 
 and the Ameen-ed-Doulah, who were then before the King. In a 
 back room were men counting money ; in that, in which we sat, were 
 the Chief Secretary, Mirza Reza, and Ismael Beg Damgaunee, 
 (the King's favourite, and commander of the body-guard) and several 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 217 
 
 others all occupied in writing, talking, or smoking. When the Ministers 
 arrived, I delivered the public letter accompanied by a private note 
 from the Envoy. Mirza Sheffeea then unfolded the official note. 
 There were perhaps twenty people in the court near the window where 
 the Mirza sat, who looked over the paper, and knew its contents as 
 soon and as well as the Minister himself; and all my expostulations 
 could not procure their removal. When the Minister had read it, he 
 told us he would lay it before the King, and then desired us to retire 
 to another room, where we might eat, drink, and put ourselves at our 
 ease, until the King should send for us. 
 
 We went to a room in another part of the palace, and sat there full 
 five hours, during which time we had a visit from a son of the Ameen- 
 ed-Doulah, a young man who has the great post of Comptroller of the 
 Household to the King. His business is to provide for the King's 
 kitchen, to see every thing before it goes to the King, and to super- 
 intend every part of the eating and drinking concerns of the establish- 
 ment. Whilst we were seated with him, four round trays of lettuces, 
 in the centre of which was a gold vase of vinegar and syrup, Were 
 brought before him. He inspected them, tasted the syrup, and ap- 
 proved them fit for his Majesty's eating. After that, two young 
 Georgian slaves were brought in for sale, for one of whom the master 
 asked one hundred and fifty tomauns. The five hours, which we 
 passed here, were long and melancholy : the only amusements which 
 were provided to cheer us, were a dish of lettuces, the chief carver, 
 and some specimens of writing : on the latter indeed every one in the 
 company, except myself, could comment at full length. The Persians 
 are great admirers of fine writing, or, more strictly, of penmanship, 
 to excel in which requires, according to their estimate, a practice 
 of twenty years. 
 
 At length we were summoned before the King. Preceded by the 
 two Ministers, we passed through the same dirty door, into the same 
 garden in which we had been at the last audience : we made as many 
 
 F F 
 
218 
 
 TEHEKAN. 
 
 bows as before, and took off our slippers at the same place; but water 
 had been thrown on the ground, and this last ceremony was therefore 
 very disagreeably contrasted with our former introduction ; for instead 
 of the fine gold- wrought carpet in the King's room, we were now 
 reduced to stand on a wet brick pavement by the side of a basin of 
 water. His Majesty having first inquired after the Envoy's health, 
 and made some preliminary compliments, reverted to the official note 
 which had been communicated to him that morning by his Ministers. 
 After a short explanation, the King proceeded ; and seating himself 
 erect on his throne, in a convenient talking position, talked without 
 intermission for a considerable time with much animation and action. 
 We then returned to the room which we had first entered in the 
 morning. 
 
 The Prime Minister sat down close to the window to return an 
 answer to the Envoy's official communication. Several servants, who 
 were at the window, read this note, word by word as it was written ; 
 so that the original and the answer were equally well known to the 
 public. The Mirza repeated to us his letter, and then sending the at- 
 tendants away, desired to have some conversation with us. The dis- 
 cussion was unsatisfactory, and wc returned. 
 
 In these circumstances the decision of the Envoy's character secured 
 the object of his mission. The point was gained, and it was settled 
 accordingly that he should see the King on the morrow. On the 
 morrow accordingly, Mr. Bruce and I, dressed in our kalaats, attended 
 him to the King. 
 
 His Majesty was seated in the Koola built by Aga Mahomed 
 Khan, in the Gidistan. He was on a chair, and dressed in a shawl 
 coat. He was very gracious, told the Envoy that he had determined 
 upon our alliance, promised that the French should be dismissed, and 
 hoped that after the decision which he had thus made, His Brother 
 of England would not dissent. 
 
 The room was covered on all its sides with looking-glass ; of this also, 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 219 
 
 the dome which surmounted the whole, was composed. A handsome 
 chandelier was suspended from the centre, and three fountains of water 
 played beneath it. 
 
 On the 15th Mr. Bruce was sent to Bushire to proceed to India. 
 The French, in consequence of the Envoy's successful representations, 
 were preparing to leave Teheran immediately. Their Embassador, 
 General Gardanne, wanted to go to Russia through Georgia; 
 but the court of Persia justly fearing in such a quarter the influence of 
 that resentment, (which, since the signing of our Preliminary Treaty 
 the French had not scrupled to express) refused the permission ; and 
 the King ordered his son, the Prince Governor of Aderbigian, to give 
 the French mission an escort of one hundred men, by the way of Arz~ 
 roum, and on no account to permit any deviation from that route. 
 
 We went before the King ; His Majesty's conversation was quite 
 enlivening. He swore that it was by Him that Buonaparte was 
 made the man that he is, and that in the course of the next year he 
 would be destroyed. We received His Majesty's letter to the King of 
 England. It was richly gilt and ornamented with flowers. The seal 
 was on a separate piece of paper, and placed at the foot of the letter ; 
 according to an old Persian etiquette, when the King addresses an 
 equal : when He writes to an inferior, the seal is affixed to the top. 
 In composition, Persian critics pronounced this letter perfect; the 
 Chief Secretary had been employed in it several days ; and that to the 
 Minister for Foreign Affairs was intended to be equally fine, and 
 indeed to comprehend all the politics of the world within its pages. 
 
 Under these circumstances, on the night of the 23d, a letter arrived 
 from the Governor-General in India, of which it might be improper to 
 disclose the contents, further than to remark, that they placed His 
 Majesty's Envoy Extraordinary in a situation of peculiar embarrass- 
 ment, from which nothing but the most friendly disposition in the 
 Persian court could have relieved him. It is due to the King of Persia 
 himself to add, that He condescended to treat Sir Harford Jones 
 on this occasion with the most gratifying evidences of his protection 
 
 f f 2 
 
220 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 and individual favour : and His Ministers united in displaying the 
 greatest personal kindness towards us. Throughout the whole manage- 
 ment of a new and very delicate situation, their proceedings were so 
 plain, so upright, and so cheering ; so eager to shew respect and con- 
 fidence to the Envoy, that we regarded them with the liveliest grati- 
 tude ; and felt relieved by finding among strangers all the heart and 
 principle of countrymen and brothers. 
 
 The French Embassador was already dismissed ; and in a few days 
 the King sent an order to the remainder of the legation to quit Tehe- 
 ran immediately. The people were then as inveterate against the French 
 as they had before been disposed to court them. When Messrs. Jou- 
 ann in and Nerciat prepared to obey this order, and were leaving 
 the city, the mule-drivers (hired by the King for the conveyance of 
 their baggage, and sent forwards in the usual form) stopped at the gate, 
 and cutting the lading from their beasts, threw every thing upon the 
 ground, and ran off. One of the Frenchmen struck a mule-driver in 
 the breast with his dagger. 
 
 On the 29th Mirza Abul Hassan, brother-in-law to the Ameen-cd- 
 Doulahy and nephew to the late Prime Minister Hajee Ibrahim, 
 was appointed as Envoy Extraordinary from the King of Persia to 
 accompany me to England. The particulars of his history, which, I 
 learned on good authority, may afford some lights on the internal ad- 
 ministration of his country, and will at least be acceptable to those 
 who were interested by his appearance at the Court of London. 
 
 Mirza Abul Hassan was born at Shiraz in the year of the Hejera 
 1190, or 1776 of the Christian iEra. He was the second son of Mirza 
 Mahomed Ali, a man famous in Persia as an accomplished scholar, 
 and who was one of the Chief Secretaries and Mirzas of the celebrated 
 Nadir Shah. His father's services had nearly been requited by an 
 ignominious and cruel death, when the hand of Providence interposed 
 for his safety, to strike with more severity the head of his atrocious 
 master. Nadir Shah, in one of those paroxysms of cruelty so com- 
 mon to him during the latter years of his life, ordered that Mirza 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 221 
 
 Mahomed Ali should be burnt alive, together with two Hindoos, who 
 also had incurred his displeasure. The unfortunate Mirza, on hearing 
 his sentence, remonstrated with the tyrant, entreating him that he might 
 at least be permitted to die alone; and that his last moments might not 
 be polluted by the society of men, who were of a different faith from 
 his own, and on whom he had been taught to look with a religious ab- 
 horrence. To this the Shah consented, remitting his death until the 
 next morning, whilst the Hindoos suffered in that same hour. That 
 very night Nadir Shah was assassinated in his tent, and Mirza 
 Mahomed Ali was saved. 
 
 The family of Mirza Abu l Hassan rose to its greatest power during 
 the reign of Aga Mohamed Shah, predecessor to the present King. 
 The Mirza s father died in the service of Kerim Khan; his uncle 
 Hajee Ibrahim Khan (uncle by his mother's side) attained the post 
 of Prime Vizier, whilst himself and the other branches of his family 
 enjoyed the greatest share in the administration of the affairs of the 
 state. It was somewhat before the death of Aga Mohamed Shah, 
 that Ha j r. b Ibrahim bestowed his daughter in marriage on his nephew, 
 after a long and singular courtship. A sister of his wife's is married 
 to Mahomed Taki Mirza, one of the King's sons; and a second 
 to the Ameen-ed-Doidah, the second Vizier. 
 
 The family, however, was not always prosperous; after some time 
 the King ordered Hajee Ibrahim to be put to death, his relations to 
 be seized, his wives to be sold, and his property to be confiscated. His 
 nephews of course partook of the disaster : one was deprived of his 
 sight, and remains to this day at Shiraz ; the youngest, then twenty 
 years of age, died under the bastinado; and the second, Mirza Abul 
 Hassan, who was then the Governor of Shooster, was dragged to the 
 capital as a prisoner. The circumstances of his seizure and escape 
 from death are better described in his own words. He told me, " I was 
 " ask* p when the King's officers entered into my room : they seized 
 " me, stripped me of my clothes, and, tying my hands behind my 
 u back, dragged me to Room, where the King then was ; treating me 
 
222 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 a 
 
 during the march with all the rigour and intemperance that generally 
 " befals a man in disgrace. The moment I reached Koom, the King 
 " pronounced the order for my execution : I was already on my knees, 
 " my neck was made bare, and the executioner had unsheathed his 
 " sword to sever my head from my body, when the hand of the 
 " Almighty interposed, and a messenger in great haste announced my 
 " reprieve. I was indebted for my life to a man who had known me 
 " from my boyhood, and who had long cherished me as his son. This 
 " worthy man, by name Mirza Reza Kouli, the moment he heard 
 " the sentence of death passed upon me, threw himself at the feet of 
 " the King, and, pleading my youth and inoffensiveness, entreated that 
 " I might be pardoned. The King yielded to his entreaties ; my par- 
 " don was announced ; and I still live to praise the Almighty for his 
 " great goodness and commiseration towards me." 
 
 After his providential escape Mirza Abul Hassan, (fearing that the 
 King might repent of his lenity towards him) fled from his country, 
 although he had received his Majesty's order to go to Shiraz, and to re- 
 main there : he left Persia with the determination of never more return- 
 ing, until the disgraces of his family had been obliterated, and until the 
 the wrath of the King against him had entirely subsided. He fled 
 first to Shooster, the city in which he had so recently been all-powerful ; 
 and there he experienced the hospitality for which the Arabs are so 
 justly renowned. As his administration had been lenient and temperate 
 he found a host of friends ready to relieve him ; and on quitting Shooster, 
 miserable and destitute of even the common necessaries of life, the in- 
 habitants came to him in a crowd and forced seven thousand piastres 
 upon him. From Shooster he went to Bussora, he then crossed through 
 the heart of Arabia, frequently obliged to proceed on foot, for want 
 of an animal to carry him, until he reached Mecca. On this journey he 
 visited Deriyih, the capital of Abdul Assiz, the then chief of the 
 Wahabees* From Mecca he went to Medina ; and having performed all 
 the devotions of a pilgrim he returned to Bussora. At Bussora he learnt 
 that the King was still inveterate against his family; and, finding an 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 223 
 
 English ship on the point of sailing for India, he embarked on board 
 of her, and shortly after reached Calcutta, at the time when the 
 Marquis Wellesley was Governor-General of India. From Calcutta 
 he went to Moorshedabad, then to Hyderabad, Poonah, and Bombay ; 
 having remained altogether about two years and a half in India. At 
 Bombay he received a firman from the King to return to Persia ; by 
 which he was assured of the King's forgiveness, and of his having been 
 received into favour. He obeyed the firman, and ever since has en- 
 joyed the royal protection. He has not, indeed, occupied any specific 
 post under government, but has been the Homme d* Affaires to his brother- 
 in-law the Ameen-ed-Doulah, second Vizier and Lord Treasurer, by 
 which means he has been continually in active and useful life, until he 
 was nominated the King of Persia's Envoy Extraordinary to the Court 
 of England. 
 
CHAP. XIII. 
 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 I. TEHERAN THE KING'S HAREM FAMILY PALACE OF THE 
 
 TAKHT-A-CADJAR PRODUCTIONS OF PERSIA MANUFACTURES 
 
 CLIMATE OF TEHERAN UNHEALTHINESS FAITH IN HAFIZ 
 
 PERSIAN MEDICINE SUPERSTITIONS ENVIRONS OF TEHERAN 
 
 MOUNTAIN DEMAWEND RUINS OF REY ANCIENT PERSIA 
 
 GUEBRES. II. RANKS IN PERSIA GOVERNMENT REVENUE 
 
 LANDED PROPERTY ROYAL TREASURE COINAGE ESTABLISH- 
 MENTS OF THE CROWN POPULATION OF PERSIA TRIBES 
 
 MILITARY SERVICE BODY-GUARDS GUARDS OF THE CITY — 
 
 PERSIAN DRESSES CHARACTER. 
 
 J. EHERAN, the present capital of Persia, is situated, as I ascer- 
 tained by a meridional observation, in lat. 35°. 40. It is in circum- 
 ference between four and a half and five miles, if we might judge from 
 the length of our ride round the walls, which indeed occupied an hour 
 and a half: but from this we must deduct something for the deviations 
 necessary from the intervention of the gardens, and the slaughter-houses. 
 There are six gates, inlaid with coloured bricks and with figures of tigers 
 and other beasts in rude mosaic : their entrance is lofty and domed ; 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 225 
 
 and they are certainly better than those that we had then seen in any of 
 the fortified places of Persia. To the N. W. are separate towers. We 
 saw two pieces of artillery, one apparently a mortar, the other a long 
 gun. The ditch in some parts had fallen in, and was there supported 
 by brick work. 
 
 The town itself is about the size of Shiraz; but it has not so many 
 public edifices : and, as it is built of bricks baked in the sun, the whole 
 has a mud-like appearance. Of the mosques, the principal is the 
 Mesjid Shah, a structure not yet finished. There are six others, small 
 and insignificant ; and three or four medr esses or colleges. There are 
 said to be one hundred and fifty caravanserais, and one hundred and 
 fifty hummums or baths. There are two ?naidans ; one in the town, the 
 other within the ark, a square fortified palace, which contains all the 
 establishments of the King, is surrounded by a wall and ditch, and is 
 entered by two gates. 
 
 The Harem is most numerous, and contains a female establishment 
 as extensive as the public household. All the officers of the King's 
 court are there represented by females. There are women feroshes, and 
 there is a woman ferosh bashee ; women chatters, and a woman chatter 
 bashee ; there is a woman arz beggee, and a woman ish agassi ; in short, 
 there is a female duplicate for every male officer ; and the King's ser- 
 vice in the interior of the harem is carried on with the same etiquette 
 and regularity, as the exterior economy of his state. The women of 
 the harem, who are educated to administer to the pleasures of the 
 King by singing and dancing, are instructed by the best masters that 
 the country can supply. An Armenian at Shiraz was unfortunately 
 renowned for performing excellently on the kamouncha. The fame of 
 his skill reached the King's ears, and he was immediately ordered up 
 to court on the charge of being the best kamouncha player in his 
 Majesty's dominions. The poor man, who had a wife and family and 
 commercial concerns at Shiraz, was during our stay detained at Tehe- 
 ran expressly to teach the King's women the art of playing on the 
 kamouncha. 
 
 G G 
 
226 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 The King's family consists of sixty-five sons. As they make no ac- 
 count of females, it is not known how many daughters he may have; 
 although he is said to have an equal number of both sexes. It some- 
 times happens, that many of his women are delivered on the same 
 night, and (if we might give credit to a Persian) one of these happy 
 coincidences occurred during our abode in the capital, when in one 
 night six of his women were brought to bed, four of sons and two of 
 daughters. The Ameen-ed-Doulah had one, indeed, of the babes at his 
 house ; and a present was sent for it from Ispahan, composed of four 
 mules laden with all sorts of rich clothes. 
 
 The Tahkt-a-Cadjar is a pleasure-house built by the present King, 
 about two miles to the N. E. of Teheran. At a distance it presents a 
 grand elevation, apparently of several stories ; but these, on a nearer 
 view, are the fronts of successive terraces. The entrance is through an 
 indifferent gate, at the top of which is a summer-house. It leads into a 
 spacious enclosure : in the middle is the principal walk, bounded on each 
 side by some young cypress and poplar trees, and intersected at right 
 angles in the centre by a stone channel, which conducts a stream at 
 several intervals to small cascades. The building which stands on the 
 first terrace is in form octagonal, crowned by a small flat roofed eleva- 
 tion. It is open by arches on all its sides, and its raised ceiling is sup- 
 ported by pillars. Its interior is arranged in a variety of water- 
 channels, and through the centre passes the principal stream, which 
 runs through the whole building and grounds. This little pleasure- 
 house, though built of coarse materials and but rudely furnished, is 
 erected on an excellent model, and is admirably calculated for the heats 
 of the summer. Under it are subterraneous chambers. Proceeding 
 further on another terrace is a grand pleasure-house, constructed on a 
 less perfect principle than that of the first, though still sufficiently 
 adapted for a summer retreat. Through this also water is introduced 
 from a terrace above. Before this place is a very extensive square of 
 water, in which, as we were told, there were fish; we saw none, but 
 the water itself is most luxuriously clear and refreshing. From this 
 

TEHERAN. 
 
 227 
 
 we ascended up two terraces much more elevated than the first ; on 
 these there were only small reservoirs, from which the water was conti- 
 nually falling into the basins on the successive descents, at the height 
 perhaps of twenty feet between each terrace. 
 
 At length we entered the main body of the building, which, like 
 all other Persian houses, consists of a large square court lined on all 
 sides with rooms of various dimensions and uses. The choicest apart- 
 ment of the whole is a small one, placed in the very summit of the 
 building, where every species of native workmanship in painting, 
 glazing, and Mosaic, has been collected. We found here portraits of 
 women, Europeans as well as Persians. The glass is beautifully painted, 
 and the doors are prettily worked and inlaid with poetical quotations 
 carved in ivory. From this there is a delightful view of the town and 
 country. In the other rooms below, there are several pictures of the 
 King and his favourites ; one of the subjects is singular, as it represents 
 His Majesty in the costume of a sick man. 
 
 The whole of this place is of brick, except the exterior wall, which 
 is mud, flanked however by brick turrets. It is much inferior in 
 workmanship to any of the brick buildings either of Ke rim Khan, 
 or of the Seffis. The soil on which it is erected is indeed ill-adapted 
 to the purpose, as it is salt ; and the salt oozes out through the walls, 
 and materially undermines their solidity. 
 
 The King is building another summer residence, half a mile from 
 the town, called the Negaristan. One house is finished, consisting how- 
 ever of only an arched room, in which are various channels for water 
 and playing fountains. In the garden we found water cresses, of 
 the eatableness of which the Persians appeared totally ignorant. 
 
 The climate of Teheran is variable, in consequence of its situation 
 at the foot of high mountains, which on the other side are backed by 
 such a sea as the Caspian. For the earlier part of our stay it was 
 moderate ; till the 10th of March the thermometer, which was sus- 
 pended near an open window in a room unexposed to the sun, was 
 
 g g 2 
 
228 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 
 at 51° Fahrenheit. On the 10th, throughout the whole day, there 
 was much snow ; indeed on the following morning, when the thermo- 
 meter was at 47°, the heat of the sun produced a partial thaw, which 
 was succeeded by a frost so sharp, that before the close of the day. an 
 officer of the suite, who weighed fourteen stone, was able to walk and 
 slide upon a square reservoir before the Dewan KhonSh, even though 
 the surface had been already broken at one corner. The fall of snow 
 was a seasonable supply of moisture to the country, which had long 
 been without any. On the new moon of March (the 15th of the 
 month) the rain begun, and for some days continued regularly, clearing 
 up about four or five hours before sunset, and gathering again at 
 night. From the height of the walls which surrounded us, and the 
 want of weathercocks or chimnies, I could collect but imperfectly the 
 quarter of the wind ; but, as far as I could judge, it was generally 
 from the S. E. There is a wind sometimes rushing from the Albores 
 on the N. of the bleakness of which the natives speak with dread. 
 From the 23d March (the first quarter of the moon) we had the true 
 ethereal mildness of spring, with light breezes from the westward in 
 the evening. Vegetation was making rapid advances : the rose-trees 
 in the court of our house were already green, and the chenars had just 
 begun to bud. The snow on the Albores was diminishing fast ; and 
 the weather generally, which sometimes lowered and then brightened 
 up, was that of an English spring. The thermometer was about 61° 
 to 64°, but in the middle of the day it reached 7o°, and the heat in 
 the close streets of the town was very sensible. In the first week of 
 April the mornings were beautiful ; but about noon a hot wind set in 
 from the S. E. which increased towards the evening, and died away 
 at night. About the second week the weather became cooler. Every 
 thing was in high foliage, and all our horses were at grass. The heat 
 was then becoming great: on the 19th the thermometer was at 82° in 
 the shade, and at night we had thunder and lightning with a thick haze 
 over the Albores, On the 21st the temperature, which in the interval 
 
.'.,-* 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 229 
 
 had been at 86°, sunk to 67°. On the night of the 20th there had 
 been a storm ; and on the dawn of day we discovered that the Albores 9 
 which before had lost their snow, were again covered. These tran- 
 sitions are common to situations like that of Teheran. The rain re* 
 freshed the air, and gave strength to the grass, which in the more 
 immediate neighbourhood of the town requires much moisture to 
 enable it to pierce the hardness of the soil. From this time the days 
 continued cool, with rain and frequent storms ; and the evenings be- 
 came almost piercing; but the showers gave a new force to vege- 
 tation. 
 
 Teheran is considered an unwholesome situation. The town is low 
 and built on a salt, moist soil. In the summer the heats are said to be 
 so insufferable-, that all those who are able (all perhaps except a few old 
 women) quit the town and live in tents nearer the foot of the Albores, 
 where it is comparatively cool. We had several illnesses in our 
 family, which we attributed to the water. The symptoms were an 
 obstinate constipation with great gripings, a disorder very common in 
 the place. Our head Persian writer was long laid up with a fever, 
 which brought him to the point of death. He was bled copiously six 
 times in six days. These people put no faith in our medicines, and 
 therefore he would not allow the Physician of the Mission to visit him. 
 At length however he was persuaded by a "fall" which he took in 
 Hafiz, and which pointed out, that he should M trust in the stranger." 
 The superstitious faith with which the Persians observe these fa Us is 
 inconceivable : the oracle consists in taking the book of Hafiz, where* 
 ever it may chance to open, and reading the passage on which the 
 eyes first happen to alight. That, by which the attention is thus at* 
 traded- is the prediction. Before they open the book, they make 
 certain invocations to God. Dr. Jukes accordingly prescribed ; bnt 
 his patient I believe disregarded his advice ; and we were despairing 
 about him, when we were told that tfee King's physician had been with 
 him, and had given him a water-melon to eat, and that the sick man 
 was now recovering. The theory of Persian medicine is somewhat that of 
 
230 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 Galen : they attribute all sickness to one of two causes, heat or cold. 
 If the patient is supposed to suffer from much heat, they bleed 
 him beyond measure ; if from cold, they give him cathartics in the 
 same proportion. 
 
 In the belief of Persia there is another and a simpler remedy for 
 malady. Nor perhaps is the credulity confined to Persia : there is I 
 suspect a more general superstition, that to relieve disease or accident, 
 the patient has only to deposit a rag on certain bushes, and from the 
 same spot to take another which has been previously left from the same 
 motive by a former sufferer. 
 
 In the time of the Seffis there was also another superstition in 
 Persia, which perhaps is not wholly extinct at this day. Every one 
 who has read Chard in, will remember the history of the coronation 
 of Shah Suleyman, who, because his original name was considered 
 unlucky, was renamed and recrowned. 
 
 The fruits which were in season at Teheran in the month of March, 
 and which were served to us every day at dinner, were pomegranates, 
 apples* pears, melons, limes, and oranges. The pomegranates came 
 from Maz under an, and were really here a luscious fruit, much superior 
 to any that I have seen in Turkey. They Avere generally twelve inches 
 in circumference. The vegetables were carrots, turnips, spinach and 
 beet-root. Hives are kept all over the country, and we had at Teheran 
 the finest honey that I ever ate, though that of Shiraz is reckoned bet- 
 ter, and that of Kauzeroon (which the bees cull from the orange-groves) 
 is considered as still superior. Our mutton was excellent, and very 
 cheap; for a sheep costs two piastres only. The beef was sometimes 
 good ; but as their meat is not deemed desirable in Persia, oxen are 
 not kept or fattened for the purposes of the table. We eat a hare 
 which had been caught by a man in the plain, and which we afterwards 
 coursed with our greyhounds. The Persians regard this flesh as unclean 
 in opposition to the Turks, who eat it without scruple. 
 
 In April we got delicious herrings from the Caspian, which appears 
 the proper sea for them. They are much larger than those which we 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 231 
 
 have on the English coasts, and are called by the Persians the shah 
 mahee, " kins of fishes." In the end of that month we received a fresh 
 salmon of twenty-five pounds from the same sea also, as a present from 
 the Ameen-ed-Doulah. The Persians call it kizzel or golden : it was to 
 the palate as good as any English salmon, though with some of us it 
 did not agree quite so well. 
 
 From the account which the Prime Minister gave us of a stone 
 which is burnt in Mazanderan, there must be coals of the finest kind 
 in that province. Among the products of Persia are gum tragacanth, 
 assafcetida, yellow berries, henna (coarser than that of Egypt,) madder 
 roots, which grow wild upon the mountains, and are brought down for 
 sale by the Eelaats or wandering tribes ; the Hindoos only export it as 
 returns. Indigo is cultivated for the dying of linen and of beards, and 
 grows about Shooster Desfoul, near Kherat, and in the Laristan. It is 
 not so fine as the indigo from India, which indeed is a great article of the 
 import trade of Persia. They use the leaf only for their beards. There 
 is no cochineal. Cotton is produced enough for the interior consump- 
 tion of the country. The best manufacture which they make is a cot- 
 ton cloth, called the kaduck; of this there is an exportation to Turkey. 
 The finest is manufactured at Ispahan. The great and richest produce 
 is the silk of Ghilan and Mazanderan. The manufacturing towns of 
 Persia are Yezd, silken stuffs, stuffs of silk and cotton ; Kashan, silks and 
 copper ware; Koom, earthenware; Resht, silks, coarse woollen cloths 
 ofAvhichthe tekmis are made; Shiraz, swords, fire-arms, and glass-ware; 
 Ispahan, brocades, cotton clothes ; Kermanshah, arms ; Kerman, 
 shawls. 
 
 4th of May. The most beautiful part of the plain about Teheran is 
 that to the S. E. The verdure, when I left the country, was most luxu- 
 riant ; and the whole animated by peasantry and their cattle. Yet 
 though the spring was thus far advanced, the mountain Demawena 1 
 (whenever the clouds, which almost always concealed it, rolled away) 
 appeared more than ever covered with snow. The direct distance to it 
 
232 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 from Teheran is about forty miles ; to the base of the first mountain is 
 reckoned fourteen miles. We had seen it when it was at least one 
 hundred and fifty miles from us ; and were told indeed, as I have remark- 
 ed before, that it might be seen from the top of the minaret of the 
 Mesjid Shah, at Ispahan, a distance of two hundred and forty miles. 
 It is visible from Resht, and generally along all the south of the Caspian 
 sea ; and it is therefore very credible that that sea, which is not more 
 than forty miles from the base, may be seen from the summit, of De ma- 
 wend. But, according to some accounts, no one ever gained the top ; 
 according to others, there is a horse-road through the whole ascent. I 
 was told at Tabriz, by a man of Mazanderan, that he himself knew 
 several who had reached the summit ; and, indeed, that De?-veishes, led 
 by the information of their books, resorted thither from India to cull a 
 certain plant convertible into gold, and tinging with a golden hue the 
 teeth of the sheep that feed upon the mountain. At the foot of the 
 Albores are many villages and pleasure-houses, and much cultivation ; 
 all the rest of the country in that direction is a blank with scarcely 
 a shrub. 
 
 On the east side of the plain of Teheran there is an elevated road of 
 a fine bottom running N. and S. which seems to have been con- 
 nected with the city of Rey. On the 4th of March we visited the 
 ruins of Rey. They are situated about five miles in a south direction 
 from Teheran, and extend as far as the eye can reach over the plain, 
 E. and W. To the E. at the foot of a projecting range, which branches 
 from the Albores, are the remains of the citadel ; consisting of walls 
 and turrets, built of mud bricks, which in most places are distinguished 
 with difficulty from mounds of earth. The mass of the height, on 
 which it is erected, seems rather of earth than of rock. Near the foot 
 of the citadel stands a tower, which by our hasty calculation may be 
 about fifty feet in height. It is built of a very fine species of brick, 
 cemented by mortar. Its exterior is arranged in twenty-four trian- 
 gular compartments, the base of each being about five feet, giving a 
 
TEHERAN, 
 
 233 
 
 circumference of one hundred and twenty feet. On the summit, 
 between two rows of ornaments in brick, is an inscription in the 
 Cuffick character; the letters of which are formed by small inlaid 
 bricks. The interior was so full of straw and other rubbish, that we 
 could not explore it; the door is to the eastward. The style of building 
 resembles much that of the Seffis; with this difference, that the 
 bricks are put together with a greater portion of mortar, and are of a 
 rather darker colour. About three miles to the Southward on an in- 
 sulated hill are other buildings, and a turret of the same style as the 
 one just described ; and between both is a round tower of stone, with a 
 Cuffick inscription in brick-work. In this turret we observed through 
 a window, that there was a winding staircase in the wall, but we could 
 not find the entrance to it. 
 
 Still further on, on the brow of a hill close under the mountain, is a 
 building, partly of ancient and partly of modern construction ; this is 
 the tomb of one of the wives of Imaum Hossein. It is composed of 
 two courts and two inner rooms ; three old women officiate here over 
 the remains of their female saint. There is much running water all 
 around ; part issues from a spring, which gushes out from under a 
 rock. The mountains are arid, with surfaces indicating much mineral 
 below. 
 
 Rey is the Usages of To bit, and is the city where Alexander 
 rested five days in his pursuit after Darius; after he had made a 
 march of eleven days from Ecbatana or Hamadan. Arrian calls this 
 city one day's journey from the Caspian Streights. 
 
 Ret/ was reduced by Hub be, the general of Jenghiz Khan; 
 and from its scattered population arose the town of Teheran. Near 
 the ruins is still a village called Shah Abdul Azeem, with a Zeeauret or 
 place of worship. 
 
 Of ancient Persia I learned little. Currimabad is, perhaps, the Cor- 
 biana of geography. Near Shiraz is a Bolouk of eighteen villages* 
 called Fasa, from its chief place, which itself is about five or six 
 
 II H 
 
234 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 menzils or thirty-five fursungs from Shiraz, and about nineteen from 
 Persepolis. From Fasa to Firouzabad is four menzils ; perhaps twenty 
 fursungs. The ruins at both, and indeed in the line between them are 
 great. 
 
 A native of Fasa, whom I questioned on the subject, told me that 
 the remains at his city were considered more wonderful than any thing 
 at Persepolis, except the columns. There are great stones with Perse- 
 politan inscriptions. There is a large mound of earth, which, accord- 
 ing to the people of his country, was transported by Turks from 
 Turkish territory. The thaabet or government of this place is the most 
 lucrative and respectable about the region. 
 
 Jaffier Ali, Resident for the English nation at Shiraz, informed 
 me that the number of the Guebres (worshippers of fire) decrease an- 
 nually in Persia. They are so reviled and distressed by the government 
 that either they become converts to Mahomedanism, or emigrate to 
 their brethren in India. Their Atech-gau, or chief fire-temple, a large 
 excavation in the ground, in which the sacred element was preserved, 
 was at Firouzabad, seventeen fursungs South East of Shiraz. The 
 orifice is now closed ; and the fire indeed, according to a Mahomedan 
 doctor, was extinguished on the day of the birth of his prophet. The 
 remains at Firouzabad attest the former importance of that city. Yezd 
 is now the great seat of the Guebres and of their religion ; but they are 
 more poor and more contemned in Persia, than the most miserable of 
 the Jews in Turkey. The works of Zoroaster were collected by his 
 disciple Jamaz, into a book thence called the Jamaz Namah, which is 
 now most scarce. 
 
 II. The only hereditary title in Persia is Mirza or Meerza. The 
 derivation of which word is from Einir (Ameer a nobleman) and Zade 
 a son, &c. This species of nobility is traced very far, and is not 
 creative. The title descends to all the sons of the family, without ex- 
 ception. In the Royal family it is placed after the name instead of 
 before it, thus, Abbas Mirza and Hossein Ali Mirza. Mirza is a 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 235 
 
 civil title, and Khan is a military one. The title of Khan is creative, 
 but not hereditary: the sons of Khans are called Aga or Esquire, 
 which is a Tartar title, and more common to Turkey than to Persia. 
 The creation of Khan is attended with few ceremonies, and those very 
 simple. The King sends a kalaat or dress of honour to the person so 
 created, and on his investiture the King gives him a firman announcing 
 to all persons that the bearer of it is forthwith a Khan; and this finnan 
 is worn three days on the top of the turban. Any person who derides 
 this patent or who refuses to call the bearer of it by his title, is liable 
 to the penalty of death. 
 
 The title of Mirza does not hinder the possessor from receiving that 
 of Khan also; and then the name runs, for example, thus, Mirza 
 Hossein Ali Khan. 
 
 The different ranks of civil governors are — 1st. The Beglerbeg, who 
 generally resides in the large cities, and controuls the province around: 
 2d. The Hakim ; and 3d. the Thaubet, who severally govern a city or a 
 town : 4th. The Kelounter', who, besides the real governor, resides in 
 every city, town and village, and superintends the collection of the 
 tribute: 5th. The Ket Khoda, who is the chief of a village: 6th. The 
 Pak-kar, who is servant or Hammes d' Affaires to the Ket Khoda, and who 
 transacts the business with the Kay at or peasant. The Pak-kar accounts 
 with the Ket Khoda, and he again with the Kelounter. 
 
 The Kelounter is a man of consequence wherever he presides ; he is 
 an officer of the crown, and once a-year appears before the Royal pre- 
 sence, an honour which is not permitted to the Ket Khoda. He also 
 receives wages from the King's treasury, which the Ket Khoda does not. 
 The Kelounter is the medium through which the wishes and wants of 
 the people are made known to the King: he is their chief and repre- 
 sentative on all occasions, and brings forward the complaints of the 
 Ray at s, whenever they feel oppressed. He also knows the riches of 
 every Rayat, and his means of rendering the annual tribute : he there- 
 fore regulates the quota that every man must pay ; and if his seal be 
 not affixed to the documents which the Rayat brings forward in the 
 
 ii ii 2 
 
236 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 time of the levy, the assessment is not valid, and the sum cannot be 
 received. 
 
 The three principal branches of the tribute which the people pay are 
 1st. Maleeat ; Qd.Sader; and 3d. Peish-Kesh. 
 
 The Maleeat is the hereditary original right of the crown, and consists 
 in produce and money. The King gets in kind one-fifth of the produce 
 of the land, i. e. of wheat, barley, silk, tobacco, indigo, &c. and arti- 
 cles of that description : and one-fifth in money of all the vegetables, 
 fruit, and lesser produce of the earth, which the proprietor may sell. 
 Though the proportion be paid in kind, yet it is assessed, not by the 
 actual levy of every fifth sheaf, &c. but by an indirect criterion of pro- 
 duce, deduced from the number of oxen kept by the landholder; and 
 this part of the revenue is collected accordingly by a corresponding 
 rate imposed upon the growth of the land. Thus the possessor of 
 twelve oxen is supposed to possess also an extent of land, the cultiva- 
 tion of which may require that number, and is therefore assessed to pay 
 a quantity of corn proportioned to the assumed amount of his gross 
 receipt. 
 
 The King collects one-fifth also in money of all the vegetables, 
 fruits, and lesser produce of the earth, which the proprietor may sell. 
 Formerly these tributes, either in kind or in money, were only one- 
 tenth : but their amount has been doubled by the present King. 
 
 The inhabitants of towns pay according to an assessment imposed 
 on the place, and founded on the number of houses which it may 
 contain, and not according to their individual means. And this levy 
 on any particular town is but a part only of that charged on the 
 district which contains it ; thus Ispahan, which for instance has Koom 
 and Kashan within its administration, is required to furnish a specified 
 sum, of which it pays part, and divides the rest among the second- 
 rate towns, which again subdivide their own proportions among the 
 villages around ; and collect, each in their gradations, the appointed 
 amount of the tribute, and transfer the whole to the Royal treasury. 
 The government requires that the collector of any given district should 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 237 
 
 supply a stated sum, but it permits him likewise to add, as his own 
 profit, whatever he can further exact. Most of these offices are bought 
 and sold. By the amount therefore of the purchase is regulated the 
 rate of oppression. The scale descends; every minor agent is ex- 
 pected to accomplish an appointed task ; but is left to choose his own 
 means, and to have no other controul but his own conscience. This 
 is the practice, whatever may be the theory of the administration of the 
 revenue. 
 
 The Sader is an arbitrary tax, and is the most grievous to the 
 Hay at. It admits every species of extortion, and renders the situation 
 of the peasant extremely precarious. This impost is levied on parti- 
 cular occasions, such as the passage of any great man through the 
 country, the local expences of a district, Or on other opportunities 
 which are continually recurring ; so that the Rayat is never certain of 
 a respite. It is assessed in the same manner upon the number of oxen 
 which he may keep. Thus, if sheep are wanted, he who keeps one 
 ox is obliged to give a sheep, and so on with every other demand 
 which may be made. 
 
 The Peish-Kesk. This is called indeed a voluntary gift, but it must 
 be offered every year at the festival of the Norooz ; and like the regular 
 taxes, is required in the same proportion, according to the means of the 
 people. 
 
 By these taxations the condition of the cultivators is rendered 
 more particularly wretched. On the contrary, the merchants are less 
 oppressed than any class in Persia. The shop-keeper indeed (duki- 
 andar) pays tribute ; but the proper merchant, (sodagerj a distinct 
 order, pays nothing at all to the state, except the duties of the customs, 
 which are comparatively very small, being about one-tenth on the 
 imports ; and as they are not affected by any other imposition, they 
 are the most wealthy part of the community. 
 
 Landed property in Persia is hereditary, and is known by the name 
 bfwalcy. But on the delinquency of its proprietor, it may be seized 
 by the King, and is then called Zapte Shah. It remains annexed to 
 
238 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 the crown, until the family are again restored, when the estate, accord- 
 ing to the pleasure of the Sovereign, may be returned. The King, while 
 he retains such property, generally allows a portion of its produce to 
 the relatives of the former owner, and this allowance is called Mouste- 
 meree. Besides the Zapte Shah there are the Halisse or crown lands, 
 that from time immemorial have belonged to the Kings of Persia. 
 They are cultivated by tenants, who defray all the expences, cattle, 
 implements of agriculture, &c. and divide the net profits with the 
 King. 
 
 At the death of Kerim Khan, the Royal treasury was nearly 
 empty; but at the death of the late King Aga Mahomed Khan, it 
 is said to have contained fifteen crore of tomauns. Since the times of 
 Kerim Khan the value of bullion has increased greatly ; the miscal 
 of gold was then five piastres, it is now eight and a half ; that of silver 
 was three hundred dinars, it is now five hundred ; and every year the 
 price increases in some small degree. Provisions and labour have of 
 course corresponded in proportion. There is no prohibition against 
 the melting, or the exportation of the precious metals. Every one 
 may convert his own bullion into any use. If he wishes to have his 
 gold coined, he can send it to the mint to be struck into any piece of 
 money ; paying the value of a pea's weight of gold for every tomaun. 
 The right of coinage is secured to particular towns by firmans from the 
 King. Most of the gold is clipped, as every Jew pares a little off. The 
 shopkeepers also contrive to rub the coin on a black stone to try the 
 purity of the metal ; by this operation small particles remain on the 
 stone, which are extracted with care, and reserved till a sufficient 
 quantity for a coin be collected. Most of the silver in circulation 
 comes originally from a very fine silver mine in Bokhara. There is 
 another also in Aderbigian, and another near Shiraz, the latter of which 
 is neglected, as the expences have been found to exceed the produce. 
 The King's treasure is reported, probably with much truth, to be im- 
 mense. The Persians indeed affirm, that all the money, which is 
 received into the Royal coffers, remains there and never again gets into 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 239 
 
 circulation. In a country so poor as Persia, in which there are so few 
 people of any capital, the absorption of a million or a much smaller sum 
 would be immediately felt. If therefore all the sums, which are 
 annually poured into the King's treasure, had remained a dead stock in 
 his hands, there would not now have been a single piece of gold in 
 Persia. There is no corresponding influx of bullion. Persia exports 
 yearly three hundred and fifty thousand tomauns in specie to India ; 
 to meet this drain there is indeed an inadequate supply from their 
 trade with Russia, which purchases with gold all the silk of 
 Ghilan ; and again with Turkey, which pays in gold for all the 
 shawls and the little silk which it exports from Persia. Yet it is 
 possible that the King may reserve two-thirds of his receipts; and 
 expend the remainder only, perhaps half a crore of tomauns. This sup- 
 position derives some probability, as well from the increase in the value 
 of bullion as from the accounts of the treasures of Aga Mahomed ; 
 and further from the common belief of Persia, that a large proportion 
 of the regular expences of the royal establishment are defrayed by the 
 Ameen-ed-Doidah, from sources connected with his office and power. 
 Thus he pays the household, and clothes the servants ; he supplies a 
 part of the kalaats at the Norooz ; he furnishes the maintenance of the 
 King's children, and clothes for the new-born infants, and necessaries 
 for the mother. In Persia, when a woman is five months in her preg- 
 nancy, she provides clothes for her expected offspring : in this situation 
 the King's wives send to the Ameen-ed-Doulah a list of all the articles 
 which they may want ; and which, frequently at a large cost, he is 
 obliged to produce on the spot. For this purpose he keeps in his house 
 a magazine stored with every description of dress for every age. Every 
 year he is obliged to build new rooms in the King's Seraglio for the 
 women whom his Majesty may chance to add to his numbers ; and for 
 each of these rooms he provides a silver manzal or fire-pan, a lamp 
 and two candlesticks of silver, basins, ewers, dishes, plates, &c. and 
 all of silver. To answer these immense demands, the range of his exac- 
 tions may well be believed to be unbounded* 
 
240 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 The aggregate of the population of Persia is divided into tribes, part 
 of which live in fixed habitations, and others (the larger proportion 
 indeed, and all the Arabs) live in tents. These tribes never emigrate 
 from their own districts, but all have their winter and summer regions ; 
 in the former pitching their tents in the plain, in the latter on the 
 summits and declivities of their mountains. To these districts they 
 adhere strictly, as the line of demarcation for the pasturage of their 
 flocks has been observed from ages the most remote. Each has its 
 records, and can trace its genealogy to the first generation. The most 
 considerable and renowned are the Baktiar, that spread themselves 
 over the province of Irauk ; the Failee, that live about the mountains 
 of Shooster or Susa, and extend their frontiers to those of the Bak- 
 tiar s ; the Affshars, that live near the lake of Shahee; the Lacs, that are 
 near Casvin. 
 
 All the tribes pay tribute. When the King calls upon them for 
 purposes of war, all (excepting the Arabs and the Failee tribe) 
 are obliged to send a proportion of men, who are always ready at 
 his summons. 
 
 The names of every one of such men, the names of their fathers, 
 and other particulars of their family, are all registered in the Defter 
 Khona at the seat of government ; and at the feast of the Norooz, they 
 attend the King to inquire whether their services for that year are re- 
 quired : if required, they wait the encampment of his Majesty; if not, 
 they are permitted to return, but in either case they receive a stated pay. 
 This is one of the oldest customs in Persia, recorded in their histories 
 from time immemorial. Each tribe has its chief, who is always a Khan, 
 and one of their own race. He generally remains with his people, and 
 has a Vakeel at the capital, who attends daily at the Der-a-KhonSh, and 
 transacts all the business of his principal. He would be the Baron of 
 feudal times, if he were not liable to lose his post at the will of the 
 King. Mr. Bruce informed me that there still exists in Persia an an- 
 cient custom, in cases of emergency, of requiring from every mill (the 
 wheel of which is turned by water) a man and horse armed and accou- 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 241 
 
 tred for the field; and of these they reckon one hundred thousand. The 
 reason assigned for the King's never requiring the attendance of the 
 Failees on his military expeditions is, that in time of old (some say the 
 reign of the famous King Caioum) the Failees fled and lost the battle ; 
 and incurred upon themselves and their posterity this interdiction of 
 military service for ever. The people of Ispahan and of Kashan, who 
 either urged or joined the flight of the Failees, were included in the same 
 prohibition ; and to this day bear the epithet of arrant cowards, more 
 happy perhaps to live a quiet life at home, than to attempt to regain 
 the reputation of brave men by fighting abroad. 
 
 The supplies which are sent receive pay from the King, as well as 
 arms and horses ; and when in actual service are fed at the King's ex- 
 pence. When he no longer wants them they are dismissed to their 
 own homes. The tribes compose the whole military force of the king- 
 dom, except the King's body-guards, who are never disbanded, and 
 form the standing army of the country. Each Prince Governor of the 
 provinces has also his body-guard, which, in like manner, is never 
 disbanded. 
 
 The provinces of Aderbigian, Khorassan, Pars, Kerman, part of Irauk 
 towards Irauk Arabi, are all governed by the King's sons. The Prince 
 of Aderbigian, it is said, can raise from his different tribes fifty thousand 
 horse and foot, over which the King has no direct controul ; but which, 
 in case of war, He can call into action by requiring the attendance of 
 his son with all his forces. 
 
 In the same manner the Prince Governor of Khorassan can raise from 
 his tribes twenty thousand horse and foot. The Prince of Fars has 
 likewise a similar command ; but his troops have never been summoned 
 to assist the King in his wars, as they are always left for the protection 
 of the Southern parts of Persia. The province of Mazanderan sends 
 twenty thousand horse and foot to the King. As the Qujars or Cadjars y 
 the King's own tribe, are resident in this province, He looks upon this 
 force as his particular safeguard. This tribe is considered the most 
 
 i i 
 
342 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 ancient and honoured in Persia : they reckon among themselves four 
 Kings — Fath Ali Shah, who was killed by Shah Thamas ; Hassaw 
 Khan, who was killed by Kerim Khan ; Aga Mahomed; and the 
 present King, his nephew and successor. Of this tribe there are two 
 races; the first is the Yokaree Bash, of which the King's family and 
 that of the mother of the Heir apparent are both sprung ; the second 
 is the Asheea Bash. The nobility of the King's progeny varies much ac- 
 cording to that of the mothers. 
 
 The two great tribes are the Baktiari and the Failee. They consist 
 of one hundred thousand families each, which, at five persons in a 
 family, makes two totals of five hundred thousand souls. The Bak- 
 tiars, of all the tribes, send the most troops to the King's service. 
 The King's body-guard consists of twelve thousand men, half of 
 whom are disciplined in the European manner, and are called Jan-baz, 
 in contra-distinction to those raised and disciplined by the Princes, 
 (and particularly Abbas Mirza, Governor of Aderbigian,) who are 
 called Ser-baz. " Jan-baz" means one who plays away his soul ; 
 " Ser-baz" means one who plays away his head only. 
 
 The Twelve thousand who form the King's body-guard are taken 
 indiscriminately from the tribes, or from the population of the cities, 
 but principally from Mazanderan and the tribes connected with the 
 King's own race. They have their families and homes at Teheran, and 
 in the neighbouring villages, and are ready at every call. They are 
 divided into bodies of three thousand men and do duty by turns in the 
 King's palace, called the Ark. They are called Kechekchees or Guards, 
 and every such body has a Ser Kechekchee, or Head of the Guard, who 
 always attends when his corps is on duty ; and on the relief of the 
 guard a Mirza belonging to the corps reads over every man's name, 
 and in case of non-attendance the defaulter receives punishment. These 
 Ser Kechekchees are men of so much family and distinction, that one 
 of the King's own sons enjoys the dignity. The Kechekchees are distri- 
 buted in all parts of the palace, and are always seen on guard on the 
 
^M 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 243 
 
 the towers of the Ark. Their watch-word is " hazir, or ready/' which 
 they continually pass from one to the other. They are a distinct body 
 from the Kechekchees of the city, who are solely attached to the police 
 office, and do the duty of our watchmen, with this difference, that they 
 have a right to ascend the tops of the houses in their midnight 
 rounds. 
 
 Besides this body-guard of twelve thousand, the King has three 
 thousand Goulams or slaves, who are horsemen and always attend him 
 when he makes an excursion. All these people, both horse and foot, 
 are paid, fed, clothed, armed and mounted at the King's expence. 
 Goulam (slave) is here figuratively used to express their devotion to the 
 King's service ; for they are not in reality entered into a state of servi- 
 tude by actual purchase : on the contrary, they are particularly honoured 
 by the King, and his own favourite Ismael Beg is their commander. 
 This chief is one of those who still exercise the noose with great skill ; it 
 is called kummand, and there are some instances of its being still used 
 in their engagements. 
 
 DRESS. 
 
 The dress of the Persians is much changed since the time of 
 Chardin. It never possessed the dignity and solidity of the Turkish 
 dress, and much less now than ever. So materially indeed have their 
 fashions altered, that in comparing with the modes of the present day, 
 the pictures and descriptions in Char din and Le Brun, we can 
 recognize no longer the same people. It is extraordinary that an 
 Asiatic nation, so much charmed by show and brilliancy, (as the 
 Persians have always been supposed to be), should have adopted for 
 their apparel the dark and sombre colours, which are now universal 
 among all ranks. In the reign of the Zand Family indeed, light colours 
 were much in vogue ; but the present Race, perhaps from a spirit of 
 opposition, cherish dark ones. A Persian therefore looks a most melan- 
 choly personage, and resembles much some of the Armenian Priests 
 and Holy Men, whom I have seen in Turkey. Browns, dark olives^ 
 
 ii % 
 
244 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 bottle greens, and dark blues, are the colours mostly worn. Red they 
 dislike ; and it is singular that this is a hue, which fashion seems to 
 have discarded even in the countries far beyond the Northern and 
 Eastern confines of Persia ; for the merchants of Bokhara, who come 
 down annually to Bushire to buy cloths, totally disregard scarlets, and 
 for that colour will not give any thing like the price, which they will 
 pay for others. 
 
 Although the climate requires full as much clothing as that of 
 Turkey, I did not find in my stay among them, that the Persians 
 clothed themselves by any means so warmly as the Turks. As the 
 cold increases, the Turk increases the number of his pelisses, till in the 
 progress of the winter I have frequently seen a small and puny man ex- 
 pand into a very robust and athletic figure : but the Persian's wardrobe 
 does not thus extend over him as the season advances. 
 
 The following is a general catalogue of the articles of their dress : — 
 1. The zeer jutnah : a pair of very wide trowsers, either of red silk or 
 blue cotton, reaching below the ancle, and fastened by a string which 
 passes through the top, and is tied before. 2. The peer a hawn: a 
 shirt generally of silk, which, going over the trowsers, reaches a few 
 inches below the hips, and is fastened by two buttons over the top of 
 the right shoulder. It goes close round the lower part of the neck, 
 where it is sometimes ornamented by a ribband or thin cord of silk. 
 The opening of the shirt extends to the bottom of the ribs. 3. The 
 alcalock : a tight vest, made of chintz, and quilted with cotton, which 
 ties at the side, and reaches as low as the thin part of the calf of the 
 leg. It has sleeves extending to the wrist, but open from the elbow. 
 4. The caba : which is a long vest descending to the ancle, but fitting 
 tight to the body as far only as the hips: it then buttons at the 
 side. The sleeves go over those of the alcalock, and from the elbow 
 are closed by buttons only, that they may be opened thus far for the 
 purpose of ablution, when the namaz or prayer is said. There is 
 another species of caba, called the bagalee, which crosses over the 
 breast, and fastens all down the side by a range of buttons to the hip. 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 U5 
 
 *This is generally made of cloth, or of shawl or cotton quilted, and, as 
 the warmer, is most used in winter. 5. The outer coat is always made 
 of cloth, and is worn or thrown off according to the heat of the 
 weather. Of this dress, there are many sorts : — the tekmeh ; which has 
 sleeves open from the elbow, but which are yet so fashioned as to 
 admit occasionally the lower part also of the arm. These sleeves are 
 generally permitted to hang behind. The coat itself is quite round, 
 buttons before, and drops like a petticoat over the shawl that goes 
 round the waist. The oymeh, which is like the tekmeh, except that 
 from the hips downwards, it is open at the sides. The baroonee, which 
 is a loose and ample robe with proportionably ample arms, gene- 
 rally made of cloth and faced with velvet, and thrown negligently 
 over the shoulders. 6. Over the caba, comes the shdl kemer, which is 
 the bandage round the waist. This is made either of Cashmirian 
 shawl, or of the common shawl of Kerman, or of English chintz, or of 
 flowered muslin. The proper size is about eight yards long, and 
 one broad. To this is fastened (by a string neatly tied around 
 it) a hinjur, or dagger, ornamented according to the wealth of the 
 possessor, from an enameled pummel set in precious stones, to a 
 common handle of bone and wood. 7- Besides the outer clothes, 
 which I have just mentioned, they have also coats trimmed with fur. 
 Such is the catebee, which is an uncommonly rich dress, covering the 
 whole of the body, with fur over the back and shoulders, fur at the 
 cuffs, and fur inside. It is made of cloth of gold and brocades, with 
 large ornaments of gold lace in front, and forms altogether the 
 most dignified among the habits that I remarked in Persia. 8. They 
 have also a short jacket, called the coordee, which fits close to the 
 body, but with loose flaps as low as the commencement of the swell 
 of the thigh. 9- The warmest of their dresses is a sheep-skin with the 
 fur inside, and the leather part outside. It is called, from its sudorific 
 qualities, the hummum or bath, but it is more generally named the 
 pooshtee or skin. It is an ugly and unpleasant article. The better 
 
246 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 sheep-skins come from Bokhara, and are covered with the finest woo) 
 certainly that I ever saw. 
 
 The head-dress of every Persian from the King to his lowest subject, 
 is composed of one substance, and consists of a black cap about one 
 foot and a half high. These caps are all jet black, and are all made 
 of skins of the same animals. The finest are taken from the lamb, in 
 the first moments of its birth ; and they decrease in value down to the 
 skin of the full-grown sheep, which the common Ray at wears. The lamb- 
 skins are also used to line coats, and make very comfortable pelisses. The 
 only distinction in the head-dress of Persia, is that of a shawl wrapped 
 round the black cap; and this distinction is confined to the King, to 
 the Princes his sons, and to some of the nobility and great officers of 
 state. Cashmire shawls have been discouraged of late, in order to 
 promote the domestic manufacture of brocade shawls. 
 
 i Like the Turks, and indeed generally like other Asiatics, the Persians 
 are very careful in preserving warmth in the feet. In winter they 
 wear a thick woollen sock ; and in the air or in a journey, they bind 
 their feet and legs with a long bandage of cloth, which they increase 
 with the advance of the cold. They have three different sorts of shoes, 
 and two sorts of boots. 1. A green slipper, with a heel about an inch 
 and a half high, with a painted piece of bone at the top. These are 
 worn by the higher classes, and by all before the King. 2. A flat 
 slipper, either of red or yellow leather, with a little iron shoe under the 
 heel, and with a piece of bone over that shoe, on which, as in the first 
 instance, the heel rests. 3. A stout shoe (with a flat sole, turning up 
 at the toe) which covers the whole foot, and is made either of leather, 
 or of thick-quilted cotton. It is worn by the peasants, and by the 
 chatters, or walking footmen. 
 
 The boots are, 1. a very large pair with high heels, turned up at 
 the toe, made generally of Russia leather, and covering the leg. 2. 
 A smaller and tighter kind, buttoning at the side, and reaching only to 
 the calf of the leg. When the Persians ride, tbey put on a loose 
 
TEHERAN. 
 
 247 
 
 trowser of cloth, called shalwar, into which they insert the skirts of the 
 alkalock, as well as the silken trowsers ; so that the whole looks like an 
 inflated bladder. The shalwar is very useful in carrying light, baggage, 
 as handkerchiefs, small books, &c. &c. not unfrequently a slight 
 meal. 
 
 The Persians shave all the head except a tuft of hair just on 
 the crown, and two locks behind the ears : but they suffer their beards 
 to grow, and to a much larger size than the Turks, and to spread more 
 about the ears and temples. They almost universally dye them black, 
 by an operation not very pleasant, and necessary to be repeated gene- 
 rally once a fortnight. It is always performed in the hot-bath, where 
 the hair being well saturated takes the colour better. A thick paste of 
 Khenna is first made, which is largely plastered over the beard, and 
 which after remaining an hour is all completely washed off, and leaves 
 the hair of a very strong orange colour, bordering upon that of brick- 
 dust. After this, as thick a paste is made of the leaf of the indigo, 
 (which previously has been pounded to a fine powder), and of this also 
 a deep layer is put upon the beard ; but this second process, to be taken 
 well, requires two full hours. During all this operation, the patient 
 lies quietly flat upon his back ; whilst the dye (more particularly the 
 indigo, which is a great astringent) contracts the features of his face in a 
 very mournful manner, and causes all the lower part of the visage to 
 smart and burn. When the indigo is at last washed off, the beard is of 
 a very dark bottle green, and becomes a jet black only when it has met 
 the air for twenty-four hours. Some, indeed, are content with the 
 Khenna, or orange colour ; others, more fastidious, prefer a beard quite 
 blue. The people of Bokhara are famous for their blue beards. It is 
 inconceivable how careful the Persians are of this ornament : all the 
 young men sigh for it, and grease their chins to hasten the growth 
 of the hairs ; because, until they have there a respectable covering, they 
 are supposed not fit to enjoy any place of trust. 
 
 Another singular custom is that of dying the hands and feet : this 
 n done by the abovementioned Khenna, which is generally put over 
 
248 
 
 TEHERAN. 
 
 every part of the hands and nails as far as the wrist, and on the soles of 
 the feet, th toes, and nails. 
 
 From the comparative shortness of my stay in Persia, I cannot 
 presume to delineate the national character. I shall therefore spare 
 the reader any general observations which can be rendered of decisive 
 authority only by the experience of years, and an intimate acquaint- 
 ance with the literature and amusements, as well as with the admini- 
 stration of a country. The simple incidents of my journal, as they 
 occur, may perhaps afford to every reader better materials for the illus- 
 tration of the manners and society and government of Persia, than any 
 systematic conclusions which I might have been able to extract from 
 the same scenes and subjects. 
 
Blank inserted to ensure correct page position 
 
CHAP. XIV. 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 departure from teheran plain tumuli casvin sulta- 
 
 nieh; tomb of sultan mahomed khodabendeh; citadel: 
 new town of sultanabad marmots king's pleasure- 
 house zengan elauts inscription at armaghaneh 
 
 river kizzil ozan miauneh dispute establishment 
 
 of couriers caravanserai women in persia. 
 
 A HE 7th of May 1809* which (as being the festival of Omar-Coushen, 
 or the killing of Omar) was considered a very lucky day, was at length 
 fixed for our departure. Mirza Abu l Hassan (the Persian Envoy 
 Extraordinary) and I sent on our baggage in the morning to Imaum 
 Reza, about three miles from the city, and followed ourselves at five 
 o'clock in the evening. I was accompanied by my best of friends, Sir 
 Harford Jones and the rest of his suite, and we had our parting 
 dinner in a tent which he had pitched there for the purpose. 
 
 The spot at which we stopped was the tomb of a son of Imaum Reza, 
 frequented as a place of devotion. It is a square building, covered 
 with a cupola, and enclosed in a square by a wall ; beyond which, in a 
 row on each side, are some young trees and shrubs and flowers. The 
 
 K K 
 
250 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 country all around was in a high state of verdure. I went to the top of 
 the gate of the tomb, from which I took the following bearings : Tehe- 
 ran N. 70 E.; Demawend N. 50 E.; extremity of the Albores (at the 
 foot of which leads the road to Casvin) N. 70 W. ; Rey S. 45 E. 
 
 8th. After having conversed with Sir Harford on matters of busi- 
 ness, I slept till three in the morning, and then sat off. Sir Harford 
 accompanied us for some time, but quitted us at half an hour after 
 sun-rise. 
 
 The plain of Teheran is covered with villages : I could count twenty 
 to the right and to the left. The road followed, as far as Karatch, the 
 bearing of N. 70 W. which I had taken on the preceding day. At 
 about ten miles from the Imaum Reza, we came to a dike cut from the 
 river at Karatch, from which our water-carriers were used to bring 
 drinking-water for our party at Teheran. At about six miles from 
 Imaum Rezais a village called Geldisi, distant three miles on the left: 
 another at the foot of the Albores called Kend; further on the left is 
 AU-shah-abad, a larger place, with many trees around; then Sherar; 
 then high on the hills to the right a pretty village called Boragoim. As 
 we approached we saw the bed of the river called Aub Karatch, run- 
 ning about S. W. which I am told takes its source in the Albores, and 
 runs towards Kijiar-a-Gird. The bed is large, 'but it was then only 
 partially filled. We crossed at the winding of the road over a brick 
 bridge of two arches of different sizes : near it are some ruins of 
 other brick buildings, apparently of the same age. In this :spot is an 
 inlet of the mountains, which seems to form aprotty plain, and in which 
 I remarked some 'hamlets. 
 
 The tomb of the son of Imau& Hassan renders Karatch a pleasing 
 object at a distance. The dome is shaded by the rich foliage of two 
 fmeehenar trees, and a stream cut from the river runs near the walls. 
 The Persian Envoy informed me that this village, and thoseon the.plain, 
 ♦belong to his ^brother-in-law 'the Ameen-ed-\Doidah, and were formerly 
 the property of his uncle the late Prime Minister. The Mirza himself 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 251 
 
 took up his lodgings in the tomb; my Mehmantfar put us in the house 
 of a peasant, which was clean though small; the people here burn cakes 
 of cow-dung for their common fuel. In a little enclosure behind the 
 house was a vine. The sun-set N. 70 W. 
 
 9th. We departed from Karat ch at one o'clock in the morning, 
 and, as well as I could ascertain our bearing by the stars, continued 
 our route in the direction of the preceding day. Two fursungs from 
 Karatch, in a plain of immense extent, is Kemelabad. We were told 
 that the road to our stage through the plain wag swampy ; we there- 
 fore chose another to the right, which (after a ride of four hours and $ 
 half, and a distance perhaps of sixteen miles) brought us, about sun- 
 rise, to a delightful village called Koran. 
 
 On the breaking of the morning we had discovered an immense 
 plain, so thickly strewed with villages, that no one could repeat to me 
 all their names. The whole, m number about one hundred, compose 
 the bolouk or district of Souj-bolouk, and are mostly under the Ameenr 
 ed-Doulah. 
 
 At Koran we saw the Hakim or Governor, as he was setting out on 
 an expedition to collect the tribute from the peasantry. The village 
 and the surrounding territory arc delightfully watered by a river, 
 which, issuing from between an Eastern and a Western chain of moun- 
 tains, flows through a very steep channel, (in a N. and S. direction, 
 after meandering some time from E. to W.) A great number of 
 dikes, are cut from it, and extend the fertility beyond the course of 
 the river, through the whole plain ; which, particularly near the villages, 
 is admirably cultivated. 
 
 From Koran we returned to the line, and met the road at a point 
 where stood a caravanserai and a tomb, both in ruins, and a clump of 
 trees. We were four hours in reaching Gauzir-teng, our MenzU, & 
 total distance from Karatch of twenty-eight miles. 
 
 In the plain through which we passed, we saw at a distance about 
 five tumuli. They are such as are seen on the plains of Troy, and jiere 
 
 k k 2 
 
252 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 
 also are called Tape. We may account for them by the battles between 
 the Persians and Turks, who buried their dead under similar mounds. 
 There are numbers all over the plain : the people of the country say, 
 that borges or towers were built on these mounds; and our host at 
 Gauzir-seng told us that a large tape called Murad-tapS, or the Hill of 
 Charity near the village, received its name from a man who had 
 made it his residence. His story (if it be worth telling) continued how- 
 ever, that a stranger, who had asked charity in vain even on this 
 hill, found at the door the master's horse, and rode off with it, ex- 
 claiming, " this is your charity." 
 
 At Gauzir-seng, we w T ere lodged in one of the towers that flank the 
 walls of the village. It was open on all sides by windows ; we could 
 thus enjoy the Westerly breeze, which allayed the great heat of the 
 day. We were very well treated by the Ket Khoda of the village, who 
 seemed to me a well-bred and well-meaning man. We had good ?noss, 
 (curdled milk, the same as the yaourt, in Turkey) and a sort of drink 
 made of moss and water, of which the common people all drink very 
 plentifully at this season. 
 
 10th. We left Gauzir-seng at midnight, and came to Kish-lauk, 
 bearing; West of our last station, on a distance of about fifteen miles. 
 
 The Prince of Aderbigian has a pleasure-house here, which is extolled 
 by Persians as a wonder and a paradise. I could discover the extent 
 of the grounds, and the house, which is built on one of the artificial 
 tapis or mounds. 
 
 A most beautiful morning opened the day to us ; the twilight com- 
 menced at four o'clock, and the sun rose at five. The mountains, still 
 bearing East and West, declined in their height to the Westward, termi- 
 nating towards the plain by small hills. After passing Kish-lauk we 
 came on a common, on which large herds of cattle were feeding. To 
 the left of the road were many villages spread all over a plain, the 
 extent of which was concealed by a haze : the whole district is divided 
 -into many bolouks, and is under the jurisdiction of Casein. The prin- 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 253 
 
 cipal villages on the left are Hossein-abad, Hassan-abad, Shahinerlou, 
 Shahin-tape. Some on the right, are Angouri mahali, and compose 
 part of a bolonk called Kou-payeh, belonging to Mirza Reza 
 Kouli, who was Embassador to France, and signed the treaty of 
 Finkenstein. 
 
 At about seven miles from Casvin, we turned from the road at a small 
 mud-walled village, to eat something ourselves, and to give our horses 
 some grass. On entering a room, the master talked Turkish to me, and 
 said that he had seen me before at Constantinople. In fact I recognised 
 him as one of those whom I had seen at Constantinople, with the 
 Persian Embassy to France. He talked to me with much pleasure of 
 Frangistoon or Europe : and this man, who boasts of having sat in the 
 same room, and of having been taken by the hand by Buonaparte 
 himself, now lives in misery and solitude in an unknown village. It is 
 not uninteresting to know the extreme attention which Buonaparte 
 paid to his Persian guests. He lodged the Embassador and his suite 
 in an house adjacent to his own at Finkenstein, and every day used to 
 walk in amongst them, take them by the hand, and use every little art 
 to conciliate their affections. 
 
 We reached Casvin at half past twelve. The day was hot and suffo- 
 cating, and there was an appearance of storm in the Westward. For 
 about two miles before we entered the gates, we passed by fields and 
 gardens, mostly producing vines, which, as I am told, yield the best 
 grape in Persia. This place labours under great inconvenience from the 
 want of water ; indeed, through the whole extent of the immense plain, 
 that we traversed during the day, there was not one natural stream ; 
 but many kanauts were making, and wherever there is irrigation, there 
 is fertility, and the cultivation is rich. Upon the whole therefore, our 
 route from Teheran displayed a country of much more promising ap- 
 pearance, than (if we had trusted only to the experience of our own 
 journey from Bushire to the capital) we might have expected in Persia. 
 The brother of the Minister of Sheik Ali Khan, one of the King's 
 sons, and Governor of the city, came out to meet us as an istakbaU, 
 
■ 
 
 254 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 and accompanied us to an house, which had been once a good one, but 
 was then abandoned and in ruins. Our Mehnandar had great difficulty 
 to procure the refreshment that was due to us ; but when at length it 
 arrived, there was a supply of cooks, pots, and provisions, which would 
 have satisfied an army. Casvin is almost one mass of ruins. A 
 Zibziiek (an earthquake), within no distant period, threw down the 
 buildings which were in the Tottie, and made cracks in almost eveiy 
 wall. A large mosque, built by the Abbasses, has been rent in many 
 places in its thick walls, and totally ruined. 
 
 11th. The storm of thunder and rain which we had foreboded, fell in 
 the evening of the preceding day, and refreshed the air which had been 
 sultry, and gave us a most delightful morning. 
 
 We left Casvin just as the morning broke at about four o'clock ; and 
 proceeded in a direction of S. 40 W. to Siah Dehan, a village in the 
 plain of Casvin, a distance of twenty miles, called six fursungs, which 
 we performed in five hours. The road over this part of the plain was 
 tfoe most beautiful and the most level of any that I had seen in Persia. 
 It was fine hard gravel; and the plain on each side of it was in high 
 verdure, one grass plat on which many thousands of cavalry might ma- 
 noeuvre admirably. 
 
 The villages continued as numerous as those that we had before re- 
 marked in our last day's route. They were neatly entrenched in square 
 walls with towers at each angle. The wind which blew from the North- 
 ward refreshed the air, and made it even cold : this, which is here the 
 prevailing wind, is called the Baad Gagazgoon, as it blows from a little 
 district of that name, composed of ten or fifteen small villages, situated 
 on the N. hills. At four miles from Siah Dehan we stopped at a village 
 on the side of the road called Keck, The inhabitants looked at us over 
 the walls, and did not seem willing to come out to us ; at last a little 
 boy ventured forth : I questioned him about his own village and those 
 around, but he seemed shy in giving answers ; and when he saw me 
 take out my pocket-book to write down the memoranda, he asked me 
 with a very suspicious face, " What are you writing there? ' and then 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 235 
 
 ran off as fast as lie could. In a little time after we heard his compa- 
 nions cry out, " the j are Roos," (or Russians), a report which, of 
 course, he had spread abroad in his village, to the fear of all tj*e 
 inhabitants. 
 
 I^ie name of the Tillages, according to his intelligence, were, Keiwh, 
 distant two fursungs, N. 10 W.; Akchegan, one fursimg and a half, 
 N. 60 W. ; Ash-hasar, N. 40 W. ; and Alwgaya, .two fwmngs, N. 
 30 W. All this plain is under the jurisdiction of Qasvin; I should think 
 it about thirty miles in breadth, but a haze over the country might de^ 
 ceive me. The mountains to the right are here diminished to hills; 
 and, joining the Southern mountains on a bearing of S. 40 W. terminate 
 the plain of Ca&vin. On the plain we saw the houpe, partridges, and 
 two deer, with many flocks of sheep. Siah Dehan has abon?t fjye -hun- 
 dred houses. The inhabitants complain <of ;a great scarcity of water; 
 and, though their village is surrounded by gardens^ .they expect altoge- 
 ther but miserable crops. They told us, with much warmth, of the 
 injustice with which another village had aptparopxiated the wate of §iafy 
 Dehau to their .own use, by turning Hhe course of the Kcmaiits. W# 
 were lodged in the ibest house that the place could afford, and had a 
 barber to wait on us. This custom of making ;the (barber the Mammt 
 d' Affaires is common to ithe villages around. 
 
 12th. We went from Siteh Dehan to Mourn, a place situated at fthe 
 end of the plain of Casvin, and the first in the Bolouk of Hamze'. The 
 distance is called six fursungs, but from the time (seven houra) that we 
 -were on our horses, I should reckon it at :twenty-five miles. As we set 
 off at midnight I. did not distinguish much on either side, till the break 
 of day, when I discovered several very .pretty villages, on the hills and 
 near the side of the road <to the left. The plain had here narrowed, 'to a 
 foreadth of about three miles: the hills to the right were quite /diminu- 
 tive, and those to the left were decreasing in their 'height. "■ T>he bearing 
 of Nouri from Siah Dehan may be about W. ; this is a guess, for at night 
 I could only judge by the position ,of the stars, and in ;the day my 
 
256 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 compass would not traverse. We stopped at a village called Couwi, 
 to feed our horses on the new barley which was in some places breast- 
 high. A peasant told us that two neighbouring villages to the Eastward 
 were called Ziabet and Parsin; they are situated on the banks of a 
 small stream, which meanders through the plain from W. to E. There 
 are many other villages, the names of which I did not learn, all sur- 
 rounded by cultivation, and forming green and picturesque objects. 
 The whole country, indeed, was one carpet of verdure; and on the 
 breaking of the morning the freshness of the odour was beyond any 
 thing grateful. We had several severe showers; the storm gathering 
 over the Western hills, and falling down in great torrents. This rain, so 
 providential for the poor Ray at >$, seemed to spread universal joy 
 amongst them. 
 
 13th. We proceeded this morning just as the sun rose, and were 
 four hours on the road, to Sihin Calih, on a bearing of N. 45 W. and 
 a distance called four fursungs, and by my calculation about fourteen 
 miles. At about three miles on the left of the road, amid very 
 picturesque scenery, is the small village of Sherafabad. From this at 
 the distance of a mile, (in a situation equally picturesque, and sur- 
 rounded for a considerable distance by trees and cultivation) is the 
 large place of Abhar. About three miles further on, still on the 
 same side of the road, lies Khorremderre, in the bosom of trees 
 and gardens. 
 
 We stopped on its skirts to feed our cattle, and to breakfast. We 
 seated ourselves under the shade of some cherry trees, and by the side 
 of one of the running streams of fine pure water, which abound in the 
 neighbourhood We met a caravan on a pilgrimage to the tomb of 
 Imaum Reza, at Mesched ; the Chaoush or conductor of which, (a 
 man on horseback carrying a green triangular flag) complained to us 
 that the people at Khorremderre had stolen his cloak. We sent a man 
 with him into the town, and after some difficulty, procured the 
 recovery of the garb to its right owner. 
 

 In 
 
 S S 
 
 fc <N 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ, 
 
 257 
 
 The next village was Heeah, still on the left ; and then Sihin Calth, 
 to which (at the distance of about a mile) we turned off from the road 
 on a bearing of W. All these villages are in the MahalS of Hamzt. 
 Grass is extremely plentiful all over this country ; and, from all that I 
 can see, the passage of a large body of men would not be impeded by 
 the want of provisions. On these plains the King's horses graze annu- 
 ally : and here every summer his troops are collected. Magazines for 
 their supplies are formed at Sultanieh. A strong wind from the West- 
 ward blew from two hours before sunrise to two hours before sunset, 
 and brought clouds with it ; in the morning it was unpleasantly cold. 
 On the rising ground to the Southward of Sihin CalSh 9 are some ancient 
 tomb-stones, some of which are carved in a curious manner ; among 
 other things, there was a lion in stone — a certain sign of antiquity. 
 The Arabic character also appeared to me very old. 
 
 14th. From Sihin Caleh we went to SultaniSh, a distance called 
 four fursungs ; we were four hours on the road, and, as we walked a 
 good pace, I should place the whole at sixteen miles. Of these twelve 
 are on a bearing of N. 40 W. to a pass (called Tcng Ali Acbar) 
 through a small rising of the plain ; and the remainder to SultaniSh, 
 N. 80 W. On the height of the pass are the ruins of buildings, 
 which are said to be those of the gate. From this pass Sultanieh is 
 immediately seen ; it lies near the Southern hills, and spreads itself N. 
 and S. over the plain to a considerable extent, containing the pre- 
 sent village among the ruins of the ancient city. I went to a tape 
 on the South, before we entered the place, and took a general view 
 of the whole. 
 
 The principal object among the remains of the ancient town is an 
 immense structure, which is called the tomb of Sultan Mohamed 
 KhodabendSh, and is said to be six hundred years old. A cupola rest? 
 on an octagonal base, on each angle of which arose a minaret ; one 
 only of which is now entire. At each angle also was a staircase, and 
 in each of the sides was a door ; and, as there is one wing which pro- 
 
 L L 
 
io8 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 jects from the base, the whole probably, in its original plan, was 
 similarly surrounded by additional buildings. The principal gate 
 fronted the East : it is now in part remaining, but in a short time will 
 be entirely demolished ; as during our visit there were many workmen 
 employed in pulling it down, to use the materials in some of the King's 
 pleasure-houses. The whole structure is of a fine brick admirably put 
 together. The cupola and minarets were covered with a green-lac- 
 quered tile, most of which is now pealed off. The great architrave 
 was of Moresque work of a dark-blue-lacquered tile. The arches of the 
 gates were all enriched with curious ornaments in plaster. The 
 interior is still admirable, though it is now converted into a magazine 
 of straw. Nothing however intersects the beautiful symmetry of the 
 dome. The interior diameter is thirty-five paces, and on a rough 
 calculation, the height of the dome must be about one hundred feet. 
 In the centre of the floor among the straw is a pillar of white marble, 
 probably belonging to the tomb of the King, which is said indeed to 
 be immediately in that position below the surface. The people told me 
 that there were many fine marbles under the straw ; and I saw (without 
 being able to find any descent to them) several arches under ground, 
 which perhaps, support the whole floor. Over each gate is a gallery, 
 which extends along the base of the dome, and leads into smaller 
 galleries within, and into others also on the exterior of the building. 
 These are beautifully adorned with the neatest work that I had ever 
 seen ; all the cornices of the doors, the segments of the arches and the 
 various niches are covered with Arabic sentences ; which in some 
 places are surmounted in a smaller character by Cujic inscriptions, all 
 either painted in fresco, or raised in plaster. The whole structure looks 
 more like a mosque than a tomb, compared at least with those at 
 Constantinople ; but of any description, and in any place, I do not 
 recollect a building which could have surpassed this in its original state. 
 I ascended to the top of one of the shattered minarets, and took the fol- 
 lowing bearings ; road to Hamadan S. 50 W. ; Teng AH Acbar, S. 70. E. 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 259 
 
 This monument appears to stand in the Ark or citadel of the ancient 
 Sultaniih. Its area is a square (a side of which, on a rough calculation, 
 might be three hundred yards) and is marked out by a ditch still full of 
 water. Part also of the ancient wall is yet standing, and bears N. 40 E. 
 from the tomb ; it is about fifty feet high : the exterior surface is fine, and 
 the stones, which however are soft and crumbling, are well fitted 
 together. At the angle of the ditch, there is the segment of a round 
 tower still remaining ; on one of the stones of which is an Arabic in- 
 scription, stating that it was built by Sultan Mahomed Khoda- 
 bendeh; and there is likewise a small rude sculpture of a combat be- 
 tween two horsemen. At the summit of the wall also, there appears to 
 be some representation of lions or sphinxes' heads. Mirza Abul 
 Hassan told me that he remembered, when twenty years ago the 
 greater part of this wall was standing. The Persians, to illustrate 
 the original splendour of the city, say, that when the army of 
 Jenghiz Khan took and plundered SultaniSh, they found in it six 
 hundred thousand golden cradles. 
 
 Here are the remains of several mosques without the enclosure of the 
 ditch, one of which seems to have been a fine edifice ; they are all built 
 of the same materials as the tomb. Few monuments in Persia can 
 hope to survive many ages ; for the Kings, who succeed the founders, 
 are anxious only to be founders themselves, and instead of taking a 
 pride to preserve the works of their predecessors, as records of the ge- 
 nius or greatness of their monarchy, they take pains only to destroy 
 them, that they may build new structures with the materials, and at- 
 tach their own names also to great buildings ; never considering how 
 short-lived, by their own example, will be their reputation after their 
 decease. The principle extends to private life, and to a certain degree 
 accounts for the numbers of ruined houses which swell the circum- 
 ference of Persian cities. Every son is unwilling to repair and inhabit 
 the house of his father, and is eager to impose his own name on some 
 new work. The present King has undertaken to found at SultaniSh a 
 new city, which is to be called Suttanabad, The inhabitants are to be 
 
 l l2 
 
i260 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 supplied from the neighbouring villages, and from the population of 
 Aderbigian. The Ark or citadel is already built: it is situated close to 
 the King's pleasure-houses, N. 50 W. from the tomb. The King 
 and all his troops encamp about June in the plains for many miles 
 around. 
 
 There are an immense number of a peculiar species of rats in the 
 plain, which dig themselves holes in the ground. Our people caught 
 several : they have the squeaking of a musk rat, and sit on their hind 
 legs ; I caught one and took a drawing of it ; it was big with young, 
 and had four teats on each side ; in colour it was an ugly dun, and in 
 length measured fifteen inches from the head to the tail : it had five 
 claws on both fore and hind feet, and long nails at the end. Its head 
 was flat with a black nose, large black eyes, and an orifice for the ear 
 without any skin to cover it ; its tail was bushy, and spreading at 
 the end.* 
 
 15th. On quitting SultaniSh we stopped at the King's pleasure-house, 
 which is built on the tape or hillock, about three quarters of a mile 
 from the present village. It consists of four divisions, all enclosed 
 within walls, and raised with materials from the demolished structures 
 of the ancient city. The first contained a suit of apartments for 
 women; the second was a polyangular building, as yet unfurnished 
 (crowned at the top by a small dome) surrounded by a railing, and called 
 like so many others, Koola-frangee. This, as we are told, was built after 
 a drawing given to the King by one of the Gentlemen of the French 
 Embassy. From this we went through a long arched and gloomy 
 passage to the King's Khalwet or private room. Here there is a picture 
 of his Majesty killing a stag in the chase, and a portrait of each of 
 his principal sons, painted in fresco on the walls. From this we went 
 to the fourth, which is the Dewan Khoneh, and opens upon the whole of 
 
 * It appears to be the Earless Marmot of Pennant, p. 135; the Arctomys of 
 LlNNiEUS, p. 145. 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 261 
 
 the plain. Here the King sits in state; and, on a terraced platform 
 below stand his sons and nobles: the whole is on a small and trifling 
 scale, and displays no great ingenuity in the builder or wealth in the 
 possessor. 
 
 We proceeded to Zengan: the distance is called six fursungs, and we 
 performed it in six hours ; but from the quick pace at which our horses 
 walked, I may reckon it at twenty-four miles. Till the last four miles 
 our route bore N. 30 W.; we then turned to N. 80 W. 
 
 The mountains on the left diminished very much, and were green to 
 their summits. They terminated at a bearing of W. and behind them 
 commenced another chain, which, when the immense clouds on their 
 summits occasionally rolled off, appeared very high. 
 
 The plain ground over which we had travelled from Casvin, now be- 
 came hilly and broken ; and in some places the soil, which before had 
 been universally hard, was soft; and the road, from the rain which had 
 fallen, was rendered swampy and muddy. In the course of the day 
 indeed we had much rain, though only in showers ; and in the morning 
 there was a rainbow. All this part of the country is well watered by a 
 variety of small streams, but by no one of any note. We saw the 
 plough at work in many parts of the country on a fine rich soil. The 
 plough here is a rude instrument indeed ; it is a large piece of wood 
 making an angle with another, which being sharpened at the end, and 
 frequently tipt with iron, forms the plough-share. It is drawn by two 
 oxen or sometimes by one, and sometimes only by an ass. About six 
 miles before we reached Zengan, on the left of the road there is a well- 
 built village with walls and towers all around, and a small Ark in the 
 centre, called Dehsis. The vegetation all over the country is extremely 
 rich, and certainly the most luxuriant which we had seen. 
 
 Zengan is a large town, and is the capital of the Mahale of Hamze, 
 which contains one hundred villages. The whole district, by the gift 
 of the King, is the property and government of Ferrajoula Khan, 
 the Nasakchee Bashee. The Mahale pays no revenue, but it furnishes 
 the King five thousand horsemen complete, who are paid, fed, and 
 
262 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 clothed from its own produce. On entering the town there is an im- 
 mense enclosed garden full of every species of trees. 
 
 16th. From Zengan we went to Armaghaneh, and were six hours on 
 the road; on a general bearing of N. I call this also twenty-four miles, 
 as we walked a good pace. On the left, in a valley, I saw several 
 villages ; the two principal of which are Koushek and Barri. Others 
 are also situated on the declivity of the hills ; the road all the way is 
 full of ascents and descents ; and at about five miles from Zengan we 
 came to a valley, perhaps a bend and a continuation of that which we 
 had already noticed. At the bottom flowed from E. to W. a stream of 
 beautiful water, which came from the mountains to the N. E. of our 
 route, and which was formed indeed principally by the melting of their 
 snows and the rains. In its vicinity was much cultivated ground; and 
 the peasants had raised its waters in many places to carry the fertility 
 still further into the fields. At the interval of about six miles there is 
 a similar valley and a similar stream, the waters of which equally assist 
 the cultivation of the country, and redeem it from the waste of the in- 
 termediate tract. We saw many tents of Elauts of the tribe Choi- 
 sevend, whose cattle were grazing in the line between the two streams. 
 They were represented to me as very warlike and brave, on which ac- 
 count the King enrolled many of them in his Goolams and troops ; and 
 I was told, that they had been the principal heroes in the war with the 
 Russians. Their tribe consists of six thousand families. Their chief is 
 at Teheran, and is a Khan of much consequence. They live always 
 in tents, changing their situation with the seasons, and are very rich in 
 camels. After having crossed the second stream we rested, and fed 
 our horses on the new barley, which was there about a knee high. As we 
 proceeded we met a caravan of pilgrims, from Derbend on the Caspian, 
 going to the Zeeauret of Mesched. Not one could speak a word of 
 Persian ; indeed Turkish, from this point and henceforward, is the ver- 
 nacular language spoken by the people of the villages ; and it is rather 
 rare to find any one of the inhabitants who can talk Persian fluently. 
 These pilgrims wore a white band about their sheep-skin caps as a mark 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 263 
 
 of their holy destination ; and preceded by a Chaoush bearing a green 
 flag, joined all in loud cries as he excited them. 
 
 About four miles before we reached our stage we came to a third 
 stream, which run with great velocity through different artificial chan- 
 nels, and the borders of which were richly cultivated with rice and 
 barley. On the right, just before Armaghanih, is a little village called 
 HoulouMh. 
 
 The whole region from Zengan is intersected at almost regular dis- 
 tances by vallies ; in one of which lies Armagha?ieh, so concealed by 
 its situation, that it is scarcely seen till it is entered. To the Westward 
 appears a long range of mountains ; but the hills which we had passed 
 in the day's march, though sometimes of rock and flint, were generally 
 green to their very summits ; and the soil was mostly rich earth, which, in 
 some places, was spread with the hues of a thousand flowers. Through- 
 out the whole tract, indeed, every thing was in life and spring. The 
 animals felt the influence of the season ; and our horses in passing the 
 herds around were scarcely manageable. One threw his rider; and 
 after having given him a bite on the shoulder, attacked his fellows, and 
 fought with some fury. The singing of the larks in the morning, and the 
 whole tribes that swept along the air, gave a zest to the freshness of the 
 dawn that was beyond description. The whole creation seemed to 
 give praise to its great Creator. 
 
 Armaghaneh also is included in the Bolouk of Hamze. In the town 
 there is a square fort. In the room, into which we were introduced, 
 there were several European inscriptions, mostly in Russian, but one in 
 Latin, written I suspect by a Frenchman's pencil, and worthy therefore 
 to be transcribed, as displaying the spirit and temper with which they 
 left the country : 
 
 " VENIMUS, VIDIMUS, ET MALEDIXIMUS PERSIDI; 
 " REGIQUE, AULJEQ ; MAGNATIBUSQ ; POPULOQ '— 
 " SCJRIBEBANT IDIBUS APRILIS, 1809 * * V 
 
264 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 M. Jouannin and his companion indeed, by all the accounts which 
 I received in following the line of their route, had no greater reason to 
 be satisfied with their accommodations on the road, than with the mode 
 of their leaving Teheran. We were told at Sultanieh> that no one there 
 would furnish them with mules to transport their baggage, and they 
 were obliged to be content with asses. 
 
 The night was so cold at ArmaghanSh that we had a fire, and our 
 people wore their sheep-skins. ArmaghanSh indeed, and our next 
 stage, Auk-ke?id, are very high. 
 
 17th. We quitted ArmaghanSh at four o'clock (an hour before sun- 
 rise, and enjoyed the freshness, not to say cold) of the twilight, and the 
 beauty of the breaking morning. We were seven hours on the road 
 to Auk-kend, which I shall reckon a distance of twenty-eight miles, on 
 a general bearing of N. 15 W. Our road was over a succession of 
 hills, the vallies of which were mostly cultivated. The whole surface 
 indeed was generally green, and displayed an appearance of more 
 prosperity than any part which we had seen on the other side of Teheran. 
 The soil, though in many places broken by rocks and slate, was fine, 
 and watered by many small streams. At about twelve miles from 
 ArmaghanSh on the left of the road, is the village of Dasht-Bolagh, 
 situated nearly between two conical hills ; on the tops of which are col- 
 lections of rocks, appearing at a distance like the ruins of towers. 
 
 After this we reached an eminence, from which an immense range of 
 high mountains covered with snow, extended itself before us. The 
 highest peaks bore on a general line of North ; and, from all that I 
 could learn, are not far distant from Resht. The general chain ap- 
 proaches the shores of the Caspian ; but on all geographical subjects it 
 is difficult to trust the class of persons, from whom alone on the spot 
 the information can be obtained. They very generally exaggerate, 
 and are at any rate very ignorant. 
 
 The whole region (between these mountains and those to the S. 
 and W. indeed on every side) is undulatory, without a single clump of 
 trees to enliven the sameness of the prospect ; if therefore I had seen 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 265 
 
 this part of the country in winter, I might perhaps have felt it still 
 more inhospitable than any that we had crossed in the South. But now 
 cultivation was seen in patches ; here the corn was green, there lands 
 were just under the ploughman's hands. 
 
 As we were eating our breakfast we were overtaken by a man from Te- 
 heran, who was carrying to the Prince of Tabriz the intelligence that (after 
 a siege of twelve successive years) the King s troops had taken the strong 
 place of Tourchiz, on the confines ofKhorassa?i and Usbec Tartary, together 
 with Mustapha Ali Khan Arab, the Governor, his troops, and the 
 treasures that it contained. It is six days journey, as far as I could 
 learn, South from Mesched, and is a fortress on the summit of a moun- 
 tain, rendered strong by its natural situation. It gives its name to a 
 very warlike tribe in Khorassan, of which the Governor, Mustapha 
 Ali Khan Arab, was the chief. A great part of the treasures of 
 Nadir Shah is said to have been preserved unbroken in Toorchiz, 
 which would thus further swell the King's collection of jewels and gold. 
 I asked a Persian what the King would do with the Governor? he 
 said, " Kill him to be sure ;" and when I suggested, that it might be 
 better to retain in his own service a man so bold and determined, he 
 answered, " No : such sort of things may be very well with you ; but 
 " the Persians are not so ; the better you treat them, the worse they 
 " will treat you. The King, if he were not to kill him, would never be 
 " sure of him, for he would certainly rebel against him." 
 
 On approaching Auk-kend, one of our attendants, who had dis- 
 mounted for the purpose of letting his horse walk easily up the hill, by 
 some chance suffered him to escape : all attempts to catch him were 
 vain, until a chatter or walking footman, belonging to Mirza Abul 
 Hassan, seized him by the bridle, when the horse retired some steps, 
 and then open-mouthed made a bound at the chatter, caught him by 
 the neck, and placing one of his fore-knees upon him, kept him thus 
 with his head on the ground, until he was beat off. He was then 
 seized by his master, to whom he meditated the same fate, and whom 
 
 M M 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 
 in fact he threw down most violently with his fore feet, though ^he 
 final and furious gripe was prevented. 
 
 Auk-kend is now the frontier place in Aderbigian; the original 
 boundary was the river Kizzil Ozan, but it has been thus extended 
 through the King's favour to his son Abbas Mirza, the Governor 
 of the province. Auk-kend indeed is in the district of Khalcal, which, 
 though certainly under the jurisdiction of the Prince, is immediately 
 administered by two Khans, and contains two hundred villages, extend- 
 ing between Resht and Ardcbil. Formerly it was a very flourishing 
 region; but the war with Russia, in which it has been obliged to 
 supply troops, and at its own expence pay, feed, and clothe them, has 
 much impoverished it, and, as the Persians say, " Kharrab Shoud, it 
 is ruined/' 
 
 18th. We proceeded from Auk-kend, at twenty minutes before five, 
 and arrived at Miaunth at one o'clock. We stopped on the road to 
 feed our horses, which detained us one hour and an half, so that we 
 had six hours and forty minutes riding, which, at three miles and a 
 quarter in the hour, gives a total of twenty-two miles : I reckon thus 
 little to the hour, because the whole of our march was over moun- 
 tainous country. Our road was much to the Westward. The mountain 
 Coflan Kou, which rose above us, bore S. 80 W. but, as we went some- 
 what more to the W. I shall place the general bearing at W. 
 
 The whole country here (and particularly that to the W. and N.) 
 seems to have been just formed by a great convulsion of nature ; there 
 are lands of every soil, of every colour, and of every form. At the 
 distance of six miles from Auk-kend we came to a small village called 
 Kiiltept; we should have stopped here to have fed our horses, but 
 there was nothing but wheat-corn growing around the place ; from this 
 our suite always abstained most religiously, though they never scrupled 
 to enter any barley field that might border on the road, and turning 
 their cattle into the very middle without their bridles suffered them to 
 eat their fill unlimited, nor was there any one that dared oppose 
 
N 
 
 XX 
 
 <N 
 
 
 s 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 267 
 
 such an inroad, which is indeed the privilege of every officer of govern- 
 ment. I was quite vexed one day (when a poor man came and in- 
 treated the Persians to take their horses out of his field, for that its 
 produce was his sole subsistence) to see the inhumanity with which 
 they treated him ; and, after having administered a few blows to his 
 shoulders, compelled him to hold their horses as they were eating his 
 own property before his face. 
 
 At about half past nine o'clock, and about fifteen miles from Auk-kend, 
 we came to the banks of the Kizzil Ozan. The stream runs from West to 
 East, in a bed of about two hundred yards in breadth, which was then 
 in a great measure dry. It rises in the mountains of Gerustan, about 
 five days journey from Miami eh, and flows into the Caspian near Reskt. 
 We crossed it on a bridge, which appeared a very ancient structure, 
 and is now falling fast to decay. 
 
 It has three principal arches, the one to the W. is modern compared 
 with the other part of the structure, having been restored by Aga 
 Mahomed Khan; as a small inscription on the new buttress inti- 
 mates. The original bridge is attributed to Shah Abbas; but, from 
 its structure, which does not resemble that of the Seffis, and from an 
 inscription in the Cufick character (which is worked in brick all around 
 the principal arch) and another in a square on one of the old buttresses, 
 I should suspect that it is much more ancient, and must be referred 
 indeed to the earliest ages of Mahomedanism. When on the borders 
 of the stream I was too distant to sec the characters distinctly enough 
 to copy them. 
 
 We commenced the ascent of the Coftan Kou immediately on quitting 
 the river, and were just one hour in gaining its greatest height, and half 
 an hour in descending into the plain on the opposite side. The chain 
 of mountains, of which this forms a part, is the proper boundary of 
 Aderbigian. Near the bridge on the right, in ascending the mountain, 
 there is a singular rock which has been fortified with walls and turrets, 
 probably coeval with the bridge. This also, however, appears to have 
 been restored in some parts by a modern hand, as in front there is a 
 
 m M 2 
 
268 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 structure of fresh brick, which does not correspond with the turrets of 
 the main building. All is now in ruins : indeed it could have been of 
 value as a military hold, only in times when artillery was not used, as it 
 is commanded by every hill around. I took a sketch of it from the 
 ascent of the mountains. The old bridge below adds a very picturesque 
 object to the surrounding heights and the scenery of the stream. On 
 the ascent of the mountain, (over that part which in winter must be of 
 more difficult passage,) there are the remains of a causeway, attributed 
 in like manner, to a Shah Abbas, and extending for several miles. 
 
 In descending to the plain on the Western side of the Coflan Kou, we 
 saw another river called Rood Khonth MiaunSh, which also flows from 
 West to East, having combined before we crossed it, three several 
 streams (the Ceransou, the Sheher Cheyee, and the Aye Dogmoitsh,) and 
 about one fur sung to the Eastward, carrying their united waters into 
 the KizzilOzan. The sources, according to my informer, an old moun- 
 taineer at MiaunSh, were about two day's journey from his town ; in a 
 direction, by the pointing of his hand, of N. 70 W. among the moun- 
 tains of Sahat Dun. We passed the river over a bridge of twenty-one 
 arches, in appearance indeed as old as that just described, but in style 
 of structure resembling so much the bridge of Alwerdy Khan at Ispa- 
 han, a work of the age of the Seffis, that it may be ascribed to a Prince 
 of the same race with much less improbability, than that over the 
 Kizzil Ozan can be attributed to Shah Abbas. If there are not 
 immediate repairs, the whole in a few years will fall into the 
 water. 
 
 It was extremely hot in the recess of the mountains, with a light 
 haze from the Westward. The sun set N. 73 W. Miaimeh, where we 
 passed the night, was once a large town, and its broken walls and gates 
 are still to be seen. It is now, indeed, a poor miserable village, yet is 
 the chief place of a tribe called Chedaughee, who are reputed to be 
 very ferocious. The master of the house, where we lodged, was gone to 
 Tabriz ; and his son, a boy of fourteen, officiated in his place with a 
 propriety and dexterity which were quite amusing. He asked the 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 269 
 
 Mehnandar for his firman, very gravely sat down and read it, then with 
 a fine flow of compliments said, that every thing that he had was freely 
 at our command ; and that we must make his kitchen ours, and that, 
 in short, he was our slave. In these countries the manners and facul- 
 ties ripen long before those of Northern climates. An English boy 
 in the same predicament would have run and hid himself in the 
 stable. 
 
 We were, however, rather annoyed by a great big fellow, a Ferosh of 
 Prince Abbas Mirza, who pretended to much power in the place. 
 In the finnan which the Mehmandar carried from the King, one of the 
 articles with which the village was required to provide him was the sum 
 of three tomauns. These he was wont to receive as his own perqui- 
 site; and this is one of the various modes by which the King pays his 
 servants without the necessity of applying to his own treasures. But 
 to this, in this instance, the Ferosh objected, swearing that there was no 
 money in MiaunSh, and that none could be raised. The Mehmandar, 
 on his side, talked of nothing but the King's Royal command, which 
 must be obeyed before all things : to this again the Ferosh objected, 
 and said that he would abide by nothing but an order from his own im* 
 mediate superior, the Ferosh Basket of Prince Abbas Mirza. The 
 Mirza was at length obliged to interfere: the Ferosh, in fact, had been 
 paid by the peasantry to guard them from the extortion of strangers, 
 and like a faithful servant he was endeavouring to do all that he could 
 in their favour. To complete the business however, the Mehmandar, 
 on our arrival at the close of the day's journey, missed a pair of new 
 green slippers, which loss he naturally charged to the dishonesty of his 
 antagonist the Ferosh. 
 
 Since there have been such great interests pending in the North of 
 Persia with the Russians, the Government has established Chopper 
 Khonth, or post-houses, from Tabriz to Teheran, to facilitate the trans- 
 mission of news, so that a courier may traverse the distance easily in 
 three days. A Ferosh has been placed by the Prince Governor of 
 Aderbigian, in each of the villages within his territory, (in which these 
 
270 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 establishments are formed) to see that every department be carried on 
 with dispatch and regularity. Twenty to twenty-five horses (purchased 
 by the Prince, and kept at his own expence) are always ready at each 
 of these houses, and the whole institution is supported from his own 
 purse. But beyond the bounds of his province, this public service is 
 defrayed by the Ray at on the line of road. 
 
 19th. We were six hours and a half on the road, a distance of twenty- 
 One miles, from Miaunth to Turkomen Cheyee. The road is one succession 
 of high hills, generally with a small stream in the vallies below, flow- 
 ing from the mountains of Bisgoush, which extend almost to Tabriz 
 on the N. W. and to near Resht in the territory ot Khalcal, on the 
 N. E. and the snows of which seemed then to be rapidly melting, and 
 (by the discolouration of the water) to have formed these streams. On 
 setting out from Miaunth, we rode by the banks, and frequently crossed 
 one of these streams, which was up to the bellies of the horses and 
 very rapid. I frequently set the bearing of our road from the top of 
 the hills, which was N. 70 W. and (though varying now to the W. 
 then to the E.) may be fixed generally at that point. The whole is 
 very easy of access, nor indeed did I see any part on this side of 
 Teheran, where an army would meet with impediment, except on 
 the Cofian Kou, and there only in a few passes: and from the 
 present appearance of the country, magazines might be formed every 
 where. 
 
 The weather during the last two days was extremely sultry, and we 
 suffered greatly from the heat. The tract indeed, over which we 
 were passing, is called by the Persians Germesir, or the hot, from the 
 notoriety of its temperature. The corn at Miauneh was accord- 
 ingly much more advanced than in any previous part of the country. 
 
 There is a small village to the S. of Turkomen Cheyee, called Caraych, 
 situated on the back of the hill. The valley of Turkomen Cheyee is 
 one carpet of green, richly cultivated in every part. About noon the 
 clouds gathered ; and as we were feeding our horses, a shower of rain, 
 with thunder, surprised and refreshed us after our hot ride. 
 
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 271 
 
 On the 20th, we went to Tekme-dash, twenty-one miles, on a bearing 
 of N. 40 W. over the same sort of country as that which we had 
 crossed on the preceding day ; but the ground was much saturated 
 by the late rain, and, as the soil was soft, our road was rendered very 
 disagreeable. At about six miles from TurJcomen Cheyet we came to 
 a valley richly cultivated ; and about two miles on the right, was the 
 village of Uzumchee. We saw some other villages, situated at a 
 distance from the road, on the heights of the mountain. We passed 
 two ruined caravanserais. The last was about three miles from 
 Tekme-dash; and, by an inscription on the gate, was built by a servant 
 of Shah Abbas. Not a tree appears over all the country, but 
 there is generally much cultivation. A little after sunrise we saw 
 some high mountains bearing about N. W. Soon after our arrival a 
 smiling lad came in with a paper in his hand, and presented it to the 
 Mirza. It was a petition from himself and his school fellows, to beg 
 a holiday for them from their master ; an address which they never 
 fail to make to any man of consequence, who may happen to pass 
 through their village. The children here are taught Persian in the 
 schools ; the Turkish being the native tongue of the country. There 
 was a very strong wind from the West, which, as the people told us, 
 had blown for five or six days ; and, though it fell as the sun went 
 down, the cold during the night was very severe. 
 
 21st. The six hours and a half which we spent on the road 
 to Saidabad to-day, were very pleasant, as we had covered weather 
 with a fine fresh breeze from the W. We went twenty-five 
 miles in the direction of N. 40 W. on a good* road, which had 
 been hardened by the late wind. At about five miles from 
 Tekme-dash, on the left, is the village of Bini Kieu ; and a little 
 further, (on a rising ground through which the road passes,) are a cok 
 lection of large stones, apparently the remains of a building, with a 
 few large oblong blocks curiously carved, which certainly belonged to it 
 They resembled, indeed, rather the tomb-stones which I had remarked 
 
272 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 before ; but they had no characters upon them. At about five miles 
 before we came to Saidabad we entered a pass in the mountain, on the 
 right of which, as we left the plain, we noticed a piece of water with 
 much wild fowl upon it. After having ascended and again descended 
 the pass, (from the summit of which we had a view of the mountain of 
 Tabriz), we came to a caravanserai situated amid very picturesque 
 scenery just at the bottom. The right wing, and many other parts of 
 this edifice, were falling into ruin. It contains a square area of two 
 hundred and sixty paces of an admirable and solid construction; the 
 work of the Seffis, strongly contrasted with the comparatively misera- 
 ble buildings of the present day in Persia. The fine arches of the 
 domes attest the excellence of art in the age of its erection. The inte- 
 rior arrangements are very good : on each side of the square are rooms, 
 each with a fire-place, and in the centre of the whole is a large square 
 compartment, divided into a variety of chambers of all descriptions, 
 with recesses for horses. All this is built of a fine brick, with a strong 
 foundation, and occasional reliefs of stone. At the foot of the whole 
 building, at close intervals, are stones cut for the convenience of 
 tying up cattle. At this spot we were overtaken by a storm of thunder 
 and hail, and driven to seek refuge in the caravanserai; where the 
 gloom of the old building, enlivened by the grotesque figures of our 
 party, reminded me of those scenes of romance which modern writers 
 have so frequently laboured to describe. 
 
 We turned off from the high road to the left, and at about two miles 
 and a half from the caravanserai reached Saidabad. We found in it a 
 mud fort, and houses with roofs arched but extremely low. Our ser- 
 vants were introduced into a chamber, a part of which was already 
 occupied by a family of young asses ; the rest was all their own. In all 
 parts of the village were small pyramids of cow-dung, the different 
 collections of the poor inhabitants for their winter fuel. The walls 
 of their houses were likewise covered with great cakes of the 
 same materials, which were then drying as additions to their 
 
TEHERAN TO TABMZ. 
 
 27$ 
 
 stock. The common children collect this ; and I foa^e frequently 
 seen two little creatures contending for it with the highest anxiety and 
 animation. 
 
 There is so great a scarcity of wood owsr the whdle country 
 through which we have passed, that the poor are necessarily re- 
 duced to these extremities for the supply of their wants. Iti general 
 they are miserably clad; the children have scarcely amy thing to 
 cover them but a shirt of coarse linen, which hardly "reaches their 
 middle ; and the women wear nothing but a shirt, a pair of drawers, a 
 jacket, and a veil, which covers their head and serves them on all occa- 
 sions. Even in these poor villages the females are inconceivably shy. 
 I happened to be standing near the place where the people were loading 
 our baggage, when a poor woman seemed anxious to come forth from 
 the neighbouring house, but durst not whilst a man was near. She 
 kept peeping at intervals through the door for nearly half an hour, and 
 drew in her head precipitately, although muffled, whenever a man's face 
 was turned towards her. When I have told the Persians that in Europe 
 a husband has but one wife, and that in company we pay more civility 
 to any female than to the greatest man, they have remained astonished, 
 wondering that creatures (as women in their eyes appear), born only 
 for their pleasure and convenience, should at all partake of any of 
 those attentions which they deem to be due to Themselves exclusively. 
 
 As we were seated in our miserable dwelling, the village music at- 
 tended us, composed of a singer, and players on the tambourine and on 
 two kamounchas. To the great mortification of these poor people we 
 dispensed with their noise, which, if it had begun, would not readily 
 have ended. 
 
 22d. From Saidabad to Tabriz is a distance of about fourteen 
 miles, on a direction of N. 50 W. There are said to be two vol- 
 canoes in the neighbourhood. Having travelled ten miles, we stop- 
 ped to breakfast at a charming spot, near a beautiful stream of 
 water, crossing us from S. W. to N. E. and surrounded by more wood 
 than altogether we had seen all over the latter part of our journey, 
 
 N N 
 
274 
 
 TEHERAN TO TABRIZ. 
 
 They are principally poplar (almost the only tree indeed which we had 
 remarked in our route) and many are felled for building. Within two 
 miles of Tabriz there is a village on a hillock, called Condorood; and 
 immediately on the skirts of this spot is another, called Basmidge: 
 on leaving which we saw great numbers of those square and oblong 
 stones, so often mentioned in my Journal. As among them there are 
 modern tombs, the original intent of the more ancient stones is cer- 
 tainly the same. 
 
CHAP. XV. 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 APPROACH TO TABRIZ ENTRANCE HEALTHINESS OF THE 
 
 SITUATION GARDENS MARBLE OF TABRIZ DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 THE CITY CHARACTER OF THE PRINCE ANECDOTES — PER- 
 SIAN HORSEMANSHIP MILITARY QUALITIES FORCE OF THE 
 
 PROVINCE THE FIRST MINISTER GOVERNMENT AND SUCCESS 
 
 OF THE PRINCE PROJECTS OF IMPROVEMENT SHIPS REVE- 
 NUE OF THE PROVINCE POPULATION OF TABRIZ ENTERTAIN- 
 MENT PERSIAN CONVERSATION MANNERS ACCOUNT OF MA- 
 
 ZANDERAN FAUCES HYRCANIiE? VESSELS OF THE CASPIAN 
 
 GHILAN — THE GOUDARS TURCOMANS; INROADS; CONDUCT 
 
 TO THEIR PRISONERS KAMCHAUKS. 
 
 m 
 
 THE road across the plain towards Tabriz is very fine; and on each 
 side of it we saw numerous ploughs. Four oxen were employed to 
 each; for the soil is here hard, and turned with more difficulty. The 
 implement itself, however, appeared more ponderous than any that we 
 had seen before. About three miles from Tabriz the road is intersected 
 by hills of a sandy and stony soil. Here we were met by an officer 
 
 N N 2 
 
276 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 deputed from the Prince to greet our arrival. He was accompanied 
 by ten or fifteen men, and preceded by a led horse. As soon as our 
 party perceived their approach, it was ridiculous enough to see how 
 every one put on any the smallest piece of finery that he possessed, in 
 order to strike the others with respect. The Mirza alighted from his 
 mule and mounted a horse ; and when we met, all the flattery and com- 
 pliments were repeated with the same sincerity as before on our road 
 to Teheran. They talked of themselves and their government with 
 singular complacency, and of the Russians with the utmost contempt. 
 The officer who came to meet us sard, " they fear us like dogs ; we 
 " have every thing better than they have; they will never dare to shew 
 " their faces again/' 
 
 Tabriz first appears between the angle of the bases of two hills, and 
 then opens to the view by degrees. In the season in which we saw it, 
 it formed a pretty object; as the constant monotony of the mud- 
 walls and mud-brick houses was hid by the rich foliage of the trees, 
 which are interspersed throughout the city. Close to the walls, near 
 the Teheran gate,, is the complete ruin of a mosque, but still sufficiently 
 preserved to shew how fine a structure it must once have been. It 
 was built about six hundred years ago, by Shah Shem Gnu z an, 
 (the successor of Shah Mahomed Khodabendeh, whose tomb has 
 been described at Sultanieh,) but it has been destroyed by an earth- 
 quake within thirty years. The inhabitants extol the fruitfulness of the 
 territory, anc the salubrity of the air of Tabriz. Its very name, 
 according to the Persian etymology, indicates- Hie excellence of its 
 situation, for it is composed of Tah a fever, and riz fled * They 
 
 • In- Grant's fine and characteristic sketch of the conquests of Nadir, he is led to 
 
 " Media's vales, 
 
 "Where Health on Tabriz breathes with all her gales." 
 
 Restoration of Learning in tfie East, 1805, p. 87. 
 
 The same derivation of the name from the qualities of the situation is given by Sir 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 277 
 
 complain, however, (though as of their only, inconvenience) of frequent 
 and violent earthquakes, which they attribute to the volcanoes in the 
 district, which throw out smoke but no name. The smoke is so 
 mephitical, that it kills immediately a dog or fowl placed over 
 it. The volcanoes are particularly to the East, in mountains of a 
 red and copper-like appearance, announcing much mineral matter. 
 The climate of Tabriz is subject also to much thunder, lightning, 
 and rain. 
 
 Tabriz is no more the magnificent city described by Chardiw: all 
 its large buildings have been destroyed by earthquakes. I rode round 
 the walls, and estimated the circumference at three miles. Three of 
 the gates are ornamented with pillars, inlaid with green-lacquered 
 bricks, and look very respectable ; the other five are very small and 
 mean. The walls are very weak, and here and there renewed with 
 mud-bricks baked in the sun. The whole town is surrounded by 
 gardens, which the Persians call Meewa-khonSh, or fruit-houses. One of 
 these, to the West, belonging to Hajee Khan Mahomed, is very 
 extensive, and planted entirely with fruit-trees, excepting one row of 
 poplars ; the only other wood indeed, which I saw at Tabriz? and that 
 of which all the timber-work of their houses is constructed. There are 
 thousands therefore planted on the borders of every stream about the 
 city. The abundance of fruit in the season was already evident, by 
 the state of the gardens, and particularly of the apricot trees. In 
 the spaces between the lines, were mounds of earths in rows, on which 
 vines were extended on an angle of about 60°, and irrigated by 
 water introduced through channels formed by the bases of the 
 mounds. 
 
 William Jones — " Tab signifies a fever, and riz is the participle of rekhten to disperse, 
 " There was an ancient city which stood nearly in the same place, and is called TaGpU 
 " by Ptolemy." — Description of Asia subjoined to the "Ilistoire de Nader Chah : " Works, 
 Vol. V. p. 570. 
 

 273 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 To the N. W. of the city is a very extensive burial place ; over the 
 whole of which are strewed black blocks of stone or granite, carved 
 in the manner which I have frequently described, and mostly without 
 an inscription, though some bore the Arabic character. To the S. W. 
 of the town are some more of these ancient tombs, one of which 
 is of the red stone, evidently cut from the adjacent mountains ; the 
 others are of a black marble, which takes a fine polish, but which is 
 now no longer used, nor could I learn even the situation of the 
 quarries. One of the stones measured eight feet and a half in length, 
 and two feet and a half in breadth ; and covered probably some very 
 distinguished hero : near it is a small mosque. 
 
 The transparent or rather diaphanous substance, with beautiful 
 veins, (which is called the marble of Tabriz, and which I have described 
 in some of the public buildings at Shiraz and Ispahan) is not procured 
 near the city or taken from a quarry, but is said to be rather a petrifac- 
 tion found in large quantities, and in immense blocks, on the borders of 
 the lake Shahee, near the town of MeraughSh. It takes the finest 
 polish, and is employed in baths, in the wainscoting of rooms, in 
 tomb-stones, and in every other purpose where ornamental marble 
 is necessary. 
 
 There are twelve public baths, some of which are handsome ; and 
 there is a bazar, which extends the length of the city, but it is mean 
 and dirty. Tabriz has no mosques of any particular merit : on 
 entering indeed there is the large ruin already mentioned ; and to the 
 S. W. of the city (enclosed in the Ark or fort of Ali Shah, which 
 contains the barracks and magazines) are the remains of another, 
 now converted into a look-out house. This is a conspicuous, but very 
 unseemly object, and to me seemed of little use, and from its height 
 to be the most exposed either to the shock of an earthquake, or to an 
 attack from a battery. The danger of earthquakes has taught the in- 
 habitants of Tabriz to build their houses generally as low as possible ; 
 and to employ more wood than brick and plaster, in their construe- 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 279 
 
 tion. For the same reason the bazars have only wooden roofs, and 
 are not arched as those in tiie better cities of Persia. Yet I am told 
 that in earthquakes, the domed buildings (particularly the Hummum 
 Khan, the largest in Tabriz) have invariably stood ; where others, the 
 strongest walls, have been rent asunder. 
 
 Tabriz had declined to an insignificant place, when about four years 
 ago the present Prince, Abbas Mirza, the Heir Apparent of the 
 crown, was appointed to the government of Aderbigian, and made it 
 his capital. When we visited his city, he had resided there four 
 years, and had guarded the frontiers of Persia against the Russians. 
 During that time he had repaired and beautified the walls, had made 
 a new Maidan, and erected some new buildings. Indeed, before, 
 there was no place fit for his habitation ; and all the great men attached 
 to his court have since been obliged to build houses for their own 
 accommodation. 
 
 The Prince is said by the Persians to possess every quality, that 
 can grace a mortal ; and (as there are many circumstances in his 
 character, which his countrymen would never think of inventing) I am 
 inclined to believe them. They were related to me by the Hakim or 
 Governor of the city, at whose house I lodged during my residence at 
 Tabriz. Some time ago, three of the Prince's children died ; his 
 Vizir appeared before him with a mournful face ; the Prince observed 
 him, and inquired the reason : the Vizir hesitated, " Speak/' said the 
 Prince, " is there any public disaster ? have the Russians been suc- 
 cessful? have they taken any more country from us ?" "No," 
 answered the Minister, " it is not that ; your children are sick f 
 " What of that?" asked the Prince ; " But very sick indeed," con- 
 tinued the Vizir : " Perhaps then they are dead," interrupted the 
 Father. His Minister confessed the truth. " Dead \" said the Prince, 
 " why should 1 grieve ? the state has lost nothing by them ; had I lost 
 " three of my good servants, had three useful officers died, then indeed 
 " I should have grieved : but my children were babes, and God knows 
 
280 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 cc 
 
 a 
 
 " whether, if they had grown up to man's estate, they would have 
 u proved good servants to their country." 
 
 The Prince is remarkable also for the plainness of his dress ; he 
 never wears any thing more than a coat of common Kcrbas (a strong 
 cotton cloth) and a plain shawl round his waist. Whenever he sees 
 any officers of his court in fine laced or brocade clothes, he asks them, 
 " What is the use of all this finery. Instead of this gold and tinsel, 
 
 why not buy yourself a good horse, a good sword, a good gun ; this 
 
 flippery belongs to women, not to one, who calls himself a maa 
 " and a soldier." He inspects himself all the detail of his troops, their 
 arms, horses, and accoutrements, adopting those that appear to hkn tfit 
 for use, and rejecting those that are below his standard. The Governor 
 of the city, who related these traits to me, had in his house at the time 
 two hundred muskets, which the Prince refused out of two thousand, 
 that had been sent to him from Teheran, having himself examined every 
 single gun, and tried every lock. He is said also to be extremely 
 liberal to his troops, and to give all his money among them. 
 
 When I asked the Governor, if Messrs. Jouannin and Nerciat, 
 of the French Embassy, (who had arrived a few days before us, and 
 whom I overtook at Tabriz) had as yet departed, he replied that they 
 were gone. When he came back to me in the evening, he told me 
 that they were not. He added, that on appearing before the Prince 
 in the morning, he had related my question and his own answer ; on 
 which the Prince exclaimed, " You told him that they were gone! 
 " How could you tell him such a falsehood ; I will not allow any of my 
 " servants to speak an untruth — Go and tell him that they are not 
 " gone/' It appeared that the Governor had been really mistaken in 
 his first report. 
 
 The Governor talked also of his Prince's horsemanship, and skill in 
 the chase, which were unequalled. He told me that at full gallop the 
 Prince could shoot a deer with a single ball, or with the arrow from 
 his bow, hit a bird on the wing. He combines indeed the three great 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 281 
 
 qualities of the ancient Persians, which Xenophon enumerates, 
 riding, shooting with the bow, and speaking truth. His countrymen 
 however are, in general, less severe in their estimate of the requisites of 
 a great character, and are content to omit the last trait of excellence ; 
 but they never praise any one without placing in the foremost of his 
 virtues his horsemanship; in which alone perhaps they possess any 
 national pride. I once in fact was in some danger of a serious dispute, 
 by hazarding a doubt, that the Turks rode better than the Persians. 
 It is quite ridiculous to hear them boast of their own feats on horseback, 
 and despise the cavalry of every other nation. They always said, 
 " Perhaps your infantry may surpass ours ; but our horsemen are the 
 " first in the world ; nothing can stand before their activity and impe- 
 " tuosity." In fact, they have courage — one of the first qualities of a 
 horseman ; they ride without the least apprehension over any country, 
 climb the most dangerous steeps over rock and shrub ; and keep their 
 way in defiance of every obstacle of ground. They have also a firm 
 seat, and that on a saddle which, among an hundred different sorts, 
 would be called the least commodious. But that is all ; they under- 
 stand nothing of a fine hand, nor indeed with their bridles can they 
 learn; for they use only a strong snaffle, fastened to the rein by an 
 immense ring on each side, which they place indifferently in the 
 strongest or weakest mouths: nor do they know how to spare their 
 horses and save them unnecessary fatigue ; for their pace is either a 
 gallop on the full stretch, or a walk. As a nation, as fit stuff for 
 soldiers, I know of no better materials. The Persian possesses the true 
 qualities of the soldier; active, inured to labour, careless of life, ad- 
 miring bravery, and indeed (as the chief object of their ambition) 
 aspiring to the appellation of resheed or courageous. 
 
 The greater part of the Prince's horse were sent out at this season 
 into different districts, where grass is the most plentiful; and there 
 were said to be only three thousand men in garrison at Tabriz. 
 The amount of the general force under the government of the 
 
 o o 
 
282 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 Prince, according to the information of his Prime Minister, is as 
 follows: — 
 
 Cavalry - - - - 
 
 Infantry ------------ 
 
 Infantry disciplined in the European manner 
 
 22,000 
 
 12,000 
 
 6,000 
 
 40,000 
 
 The troops under these descriptions are composed principally of men 
 furnished in different quotas in lieu of rent by the villages, but paid, 
 clothed, and fed by the Prince. But besides this number actually en- 
 rolled, each man has also a substitute, who is similarly instructed in 
 the use of arms, ready to supply his place if he should be cut off in 
 battle, or prevented by any other accident. 
 
 Mirza Bozurk, first Minister to the Prince, appeared to me by 
 far the most superior man whom I saw in Persia. I brought a present 
 to him from the Envoy, which, however, he advised me to offer to the 
 Prince in my own name, as it was not the custom in their country to 
 pay a visit empty-handed to a person of rank. I resisted this, because, 
 in the first place, I saw no necessity for the visit at any rate, as I was 
 merely a passenger through the province, and had no business at the 
 court. I mention this trait of liberality, because it is so singular in his 
 nation. He talked much of the state of improvement in which the 
 Prince's administration had brought the province of Aderbigian; never 
 speaking of his own counsels or co-operation, to which so much is 
 due, but always referring the whole merit to the talents of his Prince. 
 He said, that within one year they had brought their artillery to a state 
 of perfection which might rival that of their enemies the Russians ; that 
 their infantry had now learned the perfect use of arms ; and that, by 
 the acknowledgment of the Russians themselves, the Persian soldiers 
 were now a match for them. He added, that no pains had been spared 
 
 ■oil 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 283 
 
 to acquire a knowledge of military tactics, and the theory of fortifica- 
 tion, which they had gleaned from French and Russian books, trans- 
 slated by the Prince's order into Persian. The Minister said, that the 
 Prince was the only person in Persia who had a complete set of charts, 
 b'e'sides'dra wings of every instrument and weapon used by Europeans 
 in war. He told me that they had discovered in Aderbigian mines of 
 iron and brass, which, entirely by their own ingenuity, they made pro- 
 ductive ; but that they still laboured under the greatest inconvenience 
 from the want of proper artists and miners, and could not therefore de- 
 rive the full profit which they might otherwise expect, or as yet reduce 
 the price of their produce. According to the Minister, better guns are 
 now cast at Tabriz than at Ispahan ; and they had invented also a small 
 kind of artillery, which was sufficiently light to be carried by mules 
 keeping pace with the march of their cavalry over mountains and 
 difficult passes. 
 
 When I offered to procure from England any books and other ne- 
 cessaries to facilitate their operations and give new light to those sub- 
 jects upon which they were imperfectly informed ; the Minister replied, 
 that nothing in the world could afford greater satisfaction to the Prince 
 and himself; but he added, " there is only one thing which England 
 " will keep from our knowledge, as she has done from every other 
 " nation, the art of building ships." I assured him that England 
 would furnish Persia not with instructions only, but with masters, as 
 she had done for Turkey and Russia. He answered, " all this may be 
 " very true ; but there is still an art which she possesses in matters of 
 " navigation which she will never disclose to any nation. If it be not 
 " so, how is it possible," he continued, " that her ships should be so 
 " superior to all others, and that none have ever yet been able to de- 
 u feat her in any combat at sea." I answered, that her superiority 
 consisted not in the ships, but, by the blessing of God, in the men that 
 were in them ; that, in fact, in building ships we were equalled, if not 
 exceeded, by the French ; and that the superiority could not rest in the 
 vessels, since a considerable proportion of our navy consisted of prizes 
 
 o o 2 
 
284 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 taken in battle. The Minister, however, was unconvinced, and con- 
 tinued to believe that there was some secret in our naval architecture 
 on which our success depended. At our parting visit the Minister 
 added, that the Prince was anxious to have some insight into the 
 history of England, and desired me to bring with me on my return 
 some book on the subject. He wished me also to procure for him his- 
 tories of France and Russia, in order to compare them with those which 
 he had already got ; for, said he, " the English being known ever to tell 
 " the truth, and the French and Russians to be less scrupulous, the 
 " Prince will not be satisfied with what he has learnt, until He hears it 
 " confirmed by an English pen." 
 
 During our residence at his capital, the Prince received intelligence 
 of the discovery of a lead mine in the territory of Khalcal, fourteen 
 fursungs from Tabriz, in the direction in which they had found mines 
 of saltpetre and copper. As a specimen, a large piece of ore, almost 
 pure and free from earth, was produced. At Bakouba there is a mine 
 of sulphur. The district of Khalcal alone furnishes to the revenue of 
 Aderbigian fifty thousand tomauns; the whole of that revenue was 
 stated to me at seven hundred thousand ; but whatever may be the 
 correctness of this account which I received from a Persian, the 
 province is certainly the choicest part of Persia that we saw. 
 
 The population of Tabriz is to all appearance much exaggerated ; 
 I was told indeed that it contained fifty thousand houses, and two 
 hundred and fifty thousand persons. There are about two hun- 
 dred Armenian families, who live in a Mahale or parish by themselves. 
 Tabriz manufactures a great number of silk stuffs, which are much 
 used. 
 
 During our stay at Tabriz the Prince spent a day in the garden of 
 Hajee Khan Mahomed. Whenever he wishes to shew any mark of 
 attention, he sends to let the person know that he will be his guest on 
 such a day. This sort of visit, however, generally costs the entertainer 
 a large sum (in this instance two thousand tomauns) as the Prince is 
 followed by his whole household. When he alights from his horse, 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 285 
 
 shawls and gold stuffs are strewed on the ground, over which he walks : 
 a part of the ceremony which is called the Pai-endaz. 
 
 28th. I dined with Mirza Hassan, son of the first Minister, 
 Mirza Bozurk. There were a number of young and pleasant men, 
 who would have enlivened any company ; but they seemed to vie with 
 each other in the marvellous. As a specimen ; a Derveish had told 
 one, that he was in his room when a shock of an earthquake threw him 
 on the floor, where he lay for a long time in a trance; and on recover- 
 ing, found himself, to his great surprise, extended in the court-yard, 
 close under his apartment : a second shock having projected him sense- 
 less out of the window. Of slight-of-hand they recounted the most 
 wonderful feats; and to all this, they swear by each other's heads, 
 eyes, sons, and fathers. The surest prognostic, indeed, of a falsehood is 
 the number of emphatic oaths by which it is preceded. The Per- 
 sians are called, with sufficient propriety, the Frenchmen of the East; 
 they are indeed a talkative, complimentary, and insincere people, yet 
 in manners agreeable and enlivening. 
 
 A description of the etiquettes of the court, or even of private life, 
 in Persia, would be a work of endless and trifling minutiae. They are 
 such however, and so well recognised, and so easily observed and 
 imitated by every class from their youth, and indeed (in the government 
 under which they live) so strongly mark the gradations of rank, that 
 no person, even of the meanest condition, is ignorant of his proper 
 situation, and of the several etiquettes attached to it. In the educa- 
 tion of a young man of family, the principal feature is the course of 
 instruction which he receives in the forms and phrases of society. For 
 that purpose, from the earliest age of the pupil, masters attend who 
 teach the modes of salutation, and the appropriate compliments to 
 superiors and inferiors. They also instruct him, where to sit on enter- 
 ing a Mujlis (or assembly) ; of whom he has the right of precedence, 
 &c. and greater importance is assigned to this knowledge than almost 
 to any thing else. Nothing marks this more strongly than the forms 
 which gradually ascend in a regular scale from the peasant to the King, 
 
286 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 The first Minister appears under the same discipline of humiliation 
 before his Majesty, as the Hay at, before the Ket Khodd of his village ; 
 and it is somewhat ridiculous to see that man, who sat in state in his 
 Dewan, surrounded by a numerous circle of obsequious attendants, 
 performing the next moment, in his turn, all the offices of one of 
 those attendants before the King. In Persia, and I believe generally 
 over the East, a son never sits down in the presence of his father. 
 Thus the King's sons always stand before him, and are regarded only 
 as the first of his servants. Prince Abbas Mirza, who is Governor 
 of Aderbigian, and Heir Apparent of the crown, when he repairs to 
 the court of his father, appears there like any one of the other sons, 
 with the single advantage of taking the precedence of the rest. 
 
 The King is never approached by his subjects without frequent incli- 
 nations of the body; and when the person introduced to his presence 
 has reached a certain distance, he waits until the King orders him to 
 proceed ; upon which he leaves his shoes, and walks forwards with a 
 respectful step to a second spot, until His Majesty again directs him to 
 advance. No one ever sits before the King except relations of Kings, 
 Poets, learned and Holy Men, and Embassadors : His Ministers and 
 Officers of State are never admitted to the privilege. The place of 
 honour is on the left. When an inferior visits a superior, he sits at a 
 distance, and not on the same musnud. He places himself on the 
 Numfnud (the long carpet that skirts the room) ; nor even there, till 
 he is desired : and, in approaching his superior, he is very careful to 
 cover himself with his outer-coat, and to sit down directly on his 
 heels, so that his feet are completely hidden. When a servant comes 
 before his master, he makes an inclination of his body ; and, when he 
 goes away, he walks backwards until he reaches the door, where he 
 makes another inclination. 
 
 There is as much etiquette in smoking as in sitting. No in- 
 ferior calls for his kaleoon, until the superior has given the lead. 
 No one can smoke before the King; and only particular persons 
 before the Princes. 
 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 28? 
 
 I had some conversation with a native of Mazanderan, who extolled 
 the virtues of his countrymen, and complained of the ill-conduct of 
 their rulers, in equal proportion. He himself had been despoiled of 
 his property, and reduced almost to beggary; but, as he added, 
 many from his province had gone to India, and by their abilities on a 
 more favourable ground, had realized fortunes. 
 
 He told ine that there were two entrances into Mazanderan ; one, by 
 the Pile Rud-bar, the road through which leads off the bridge over which 
 we crossed the Kizzil Ozan ; and the other, by the way of Resht on 
 the borders of the sea. The Jungle, or wild woodland, is so impene- 
 trable, that, according to his illustration, an arrow discharged from a 
 bow cannot force it, but strikes on the exterior reeds. The Pile Rud- 
 bar is perhaps the ancient Fauces Hyrcanice ; and the accounts of 
 Olearius, and other modern travellers, as well as the intelligence that 
 I received, confirm the original tremendous descriptions. I had been 
 told at Teheran, that men are stationed at different intervals to give 
 notice to travellers of the approach of others in an opposite direction ; 
 for in the narrowest part two mules cannot pass, nor can they turn 
 back. I was further told at Tabriz, that the great causeway built by 
 Shah Abbas, is falling into total decay; and in some places is so 
 much ruined, that though mules and horses may still travel upon it, 
 camels can no longer be used. The avenues therefore to Mazanderan 
 might be successfully guarded by twenty expert fusileers, against any 
 force that could be brought. The people indeed had frequently peti- 
 tioned their government to repair the causeway ; but it has been the 
 policy of the court to leave it in its present state, that in case of any 
 necessity the King might retire there in safety, and defend himself 
 in the inaccessible fastnesses which the condition of the province thus 
 opposes to an enemy. 
 
 The vessels which navigate the Caspian, are (according to the same 
 authority) very rude and ill-built, being planks put together without 
 any caulking to their seams ; the people are therefore obliged inces- 
 santly to bail the water off in buckets ; for they have not learnt the 
 
288 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 use of pumps, a knowledge indeed to which alone he attributed the su- 
 periority of the Russian vessels. 
 
 He told me that the people of Ghilan have a language of their own, 
 distinct from both the Persian and the Turkish, and bearing indeed 
 no affinity to either ; although, on questioning him further on the subject, 
 I found that they had no books written in that language, and that 
 it was merely a Patois, or corrupted Persian, which the common 
 people spoke. 
 
 In continuing our conversation, he mentioned that near the town of 
 Ashreff, on the West of Asterabad, is a tribe of people called Gotidar, 
 in number about one hundred houses, or five hundred souls, who 
 inhabit the wild country in the neighbourhood. If my Mazanderan 
 informer may be credited, they are of no religion ; and in the inter- 
 course of the sexes, appears to descend low into savage life. A man 
 feeling an inclination for a woman, asks her mother's leave to carry her 
 out into the woods, where he passes two or three days with her ; and 
 then either lives with her himself, or returns her to her mother. Their 
 principal food is the flesh of the wild hog, of which there are vast num- 
 bers in the district. These hogs are killed by the children of the tribe, 
 who are exercised almost from the time that they can walk, in the 
 bow and the matchlock, and are described, in consequence, as never 
 erring shots. 
 
 From him too I received an account of their more celebrated neigh- 
 bours the Turcomans, the confines of whose territory are close to Astera- 
 bad. They are Sunnis, and in consequence execrated by the Persians, 
 who call them Giaours or Infidels. They live in tribes or eels, being 
 subject to no particular master. Each tribe has, indeed, a nominal 
 chief chosen by themselves, but possessing no further authority among 
 them than that of settling differences, and arranging their civil economy. 
 As a people, they have no fixed habitations ; but carry about the tents 
 in which they live, and which the Persians call Kara Khader, black 
 tents. Their general characteristics are those common to all wander- 
 ing nations ; great hospitality within their own boundaries, and 
 
 
 UK Ull iH KM 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 289 
 
 universal depredation abroad. The Turcomans make incursions into 
 Persia; frequently crossing the wide intervening desert of sand, 
 and surprising and carrying away from the centre of towns and 
 villages men, women, and children. They, even now, extend their 
 inroads as far as Koo?n, Kashan, Langaivod, Nusserabad ; and the 
 ruined villages about Koom were destroyed by them. These Raids, 
 which are called Chappow, are performed on horseback by parties of 
 twenty or thirty with incredible speed and activity. Their horses 
 (renowned over the East for swiftness and hardiness) support them 
 admirably in these expeditions, as like their riders they undergo 
 immense fatigue with a very small portion of food. They are, there- 
 fore, bought by the neighbouring nations at vast prices ; which, (with 
 the sale among other tribes of their captives, and of their camels, 
 sheep, &c.) supply the chief source of the Turcoman's wealth, and 
 accumulate immense sums in ready money. The captives lead a 
 wretched life: if young, they are sent into the interior to tend the 
 cattle; but when they grow old and unfit for service, they are 
 killed by their masters ; who comfort their consciences by placing 
 the skin of the deceased at the threshold of their door, in the be- 
 lief that he approaches Paradise in proportion as his skin gets pierced 
 with holes and worn out. On the other hand, their hospitality, the 
 theme of so many pens, is not exaggerated. A stranger, laden 
 with gold and precious stones, who claims protection at the tent 
 of a Turcoman is sure to find it. He remains there as Ions: as he 
 pleases, his person and his property are in perfect safety, and, when 
 he is desirous to depart, he is escorted by one of the tribe, which 
 alone is a sufficient protection to him through the whole of their 
 own district, and through every other kindred people. Caravans thus 
 travel from Asterabad to Astrachan without molestation, and in the 
 full security of the property which they convey. Turcomania is said 
 to be extremely populous, but wholly uncultivated. The people feel 
 
 p p 
 

 290 
 
 TABRIZ. 
 
 not the want of corn, and are content therefore to live upon the 
 flesh of horses, camels, and sheep, and on the milk of mares and 
 camels. They excavate a large hole in the ground, in which they 
 make a fire; and, placing the meat in the embers, cover it up until it 
 be baked. To the Northward of Turcomania are the Kamchauks, 
 who inhabit a desert, and are reported to be most ferocious and 
 warlike, and hitherto unconquered. All these inhabit the Eastern 
 borders of the Caspian Sea, called by the Persians Dereea-Kulzvm* 
 The Persians are at present at peace with the Turcomans, although 
 they are still equally liable to be surprised by their Chappow par- 
 ties. In the time even of Shah Abbas these depredations were 
 carried to an inconceivable extent. Aga Mahomed Khan, the 
 late King, made several attempts against them without any profit; 
 and particularly indeed against the Kamchauks, where he met with a 
 defeat. In former times the Turcomans used to make their attacks on 
 the coasts of Ghilan and Mazanderan in boats. Now they are not so 
 depredatory ; because the country is more inaccessible, and the people, 
 according to my informer, are more dextrous in their match-lock guns 
 and bows; so much, indeed, are they improved, that, in the true Persian 
 style, he added, "Twenty men of Mazanderan will beat one thousand 
 Turcomans*' 
 
 We recommenced our journey on the 1st of June ; and on that day 
 waited upon Mirza Bozurk to pay our respects to him on leaving 
 Tabriz, He told us that we were now departing at a most lucky hour, 
 
 * " The sea of Kulzum? is more appropriated by the generality of Eastern authors to 
 the Arabian Gulph, to which, indeed, it is said to be attached, from the place of the same 
 name on the shores ; yet it is applied to the Caspian in a Persian map copied in the 
 Oriental Collections, Vol. III. p. 76 : and Khojeh Abdulkurreem, while he states that 
 " the proper sea of Kulzum is in the Turkish empire," admits that " the people of 
 " Ashreff" affix the name to the Caspian, p. 94. London Edit. 1793 : and in a note to 
 Abulghazi Khan's History of the Tartars, the French Editor mentions it as the genera! 
 designation among the Persians, p. 645. 
 
 
TABRIZ. 
 
 291 
 
 for that this had been the morning fixed some time ago by the astrolo- 
 gers as the most fortunate for the Prince to leave his capital, prepara- 
 tory to his usual summer campaign. He informed us, among other news, 
 (that had just reached him from Constantinople) that the Turks had 
 defeated the Russians, and had taken so many prisoners that they were 
 selling them in the bazars at Constantinople. 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 # 
 
 
 p p ( 2 
 
CHAP. XVI. 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 persian travelling departure from tabriz beauty of 
 
 the country lake of shahee station of rahdars 
 
 khoi ; town; gardens; plain — agriculture — elauts — 
 
 convenience of tents courdistan robbers herds of 
 
 mares frontiers of persia and turkey bayazid 
 
 mount ararat reception in the tents of the elauts 
 
 — diadin; the Euphrates — ibrahim pacha; visit to his 
 enemy timur beg; reception at the castle of turpa 
 
 caleh depopulation of the country- omen- river 
 
 araxes conduct of the aga of alwar. 
 
 X HE mode of travelling in Persia is easy and commodious. In 
 winter they generally begin their journey at sun-rise. The baggage 
 proceeds, and then the master. He breakfasts either before he sets off, 
 or in in a more pleasant spot on the road, (regarding in each case the 
 advantage of a stream of running water as the motive of preference ;) 
 and thus he allows time for his luggage to reach the stage before him, 
 and his people to prepare every thing for his reception, spread his 
 carpets, and get the necessary articles for cooking his dinner. On his 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 m 
 
 arrival he eats his choshta, or intermediate meal, and then sleeps. At 
 sun-set he takes another repast (his noshtd) ; and his servants then pack 
 up every thing ready for his departure the next morning. He proceeds 
 by easy stages, generally from five to six leagues a-day, which, as he 
 always rides his own horses, is a good day's journey at the common rate 
 of travelling. If he has a Mehmandar with him, he is fed and lodged 
 and travels entirely at the public expence. When the Mehmandar arrives 
 at the village, he produces his Jinnan, (in which the kind and quantity 
 of the articles to be provided are specified ;) and demands a correspon- 
 dent supply from the inhabitants. 
 
 1st June, 1809- We left the Khoi gate of Tabriz at seven o'clock, 
 and in six hours and a half reached All Shah, a distance called by the 
 people of the country six fursungs, and which I reckoned at twenty-four 
 miles. From the top of our lodging at Alt Shah, I could see the mountain 
 near which Tabriz is situated, I can therefore place exactly the bearing 
 of our route, at N. 75 W. We kept to the Eastward of the plain in 
 consequence of the difficulties along the road through the centre, which 
 was then in many places overflowed 
 
 Near Tabriz on the left, are some gardens and houses, called Huck- 
 navar ; then the village of Mayan. To the Eastward of the city 
 itself, is a conspicuous hill called the Bahalil Tape, which abounds in 
 every kind of game. Having travelled three miles from Tabriz on a 
 bearing nearly N. we came to a bridge of nine large and three small 
 arches, thrown over the river Agi, which, flowing from E. to W. falls 
 at length into the lake of Shahee. The river rises near Ardebil ; and 
 is fordable by mules where we crossed it, though we prefered the 
 bridge, which happened indeed to be in better repair than those be- 
 tween Teheran and Tabriz. At about four miles from the city, we 
 passed a village called Alwar ; and three miles further another of the 
 same name, each surrounded with a cultivated territory, intersected 
 by a thousand dikes and kanauis. The greatest part of the plain is of 
 a soil strongly impregnated with salt ; and as in every other district of 
 
294 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 the same quality, we witnessed the curious effects of the vapour, (called 
 Ser Aub) which overspread the plain. About four miles before we 
 reached Alt Shah, we crossed a bridge of four arches, over a pool 
 of standing salt water. The industry of agriculture was visible, and the 
 crops of barley and corn were luxuriant and promising. 
 
 The plain of Tabriz extends far to the W. and S. ; the mountains 
 which border it on those directions being just designed in very light 
 tints in the horizon. To the Northward and Eastward it is bounded 
 by hard-featured lands of an inferior elevation, indicating on their 
 surfaces the minerals below. There are several pretty villages situated 
 to the North, on the declivity of the mountain about three or four 
 miles from All Shah, and which, together with it and others to the W. 
 are in the Mahale or district of Ghuneh. 
 
 The lake of Shahee is about seven fursungs from AH Shah, and the 
 middle of the long mountain (which extends into the centre of the lake, 
 and which now appeared isolated on the horizon of the plain) bore 
 S. 50 W. of our station. 
 
 In my progress to Constantinople^ I traversed a country in its confor- 
 mation most picturesque, and in its productions most luxuriant. No 
 traveller in any season, or in any direction, could have passed these 
 scenes without admiration ; but I saw them in all the richness of 
 spring, contrasted with a winter in Persia ; and after the leafless and 
 barren region which I had passed, I enjoyed doubly the wild prodi- 
 gality of vegetation, which in the early part of the year is displayed 
 through Asia Minor. The impression therefore of delight which I ex- 
 perienced, was strongest at the first point of contrast ; and the first 
 verdure and foliage which I saw near Tabriz, appeared to me to con- 
 stitute the very perfection of landscape. 
 
 2d June. If a writer of romance would describe beautiful scenery, 
 he might select our departure from Ali Shah. We began our journey 
 by a most charming moonlight ; and the sky was delightfully serene. 
 Just as the sun was rising we reached an orchard, (full of every species 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 *95 
 
 of fruit, particularly almonds, and) skirting the town of Shebester ; 
 which, embosomed in trees of every hue, was situated on the declivity 
 of the mountains on our right. 
 
 Shebester is a large town, surrounded by several villages, and by more 
 wood and cultivation, than any spot I had yet seen in Persia. Hitherto 
 indeed the want of trees, either as a shade to the road, or as a relief to 
 the inequalities of the heights, had been constant and uniform. We 
 admired therefore doubly the beauties of our present course. Streams 
 of running water were meandering in every direction amid the numer- 
 ous willows, poplars, almonds, and other trees, which bordered our 
 road : and at intervals the artificial dikes were opened to admit water 
 into the beds of rice. The greater part of the country was covered 
 with verdure, for the new corn was already well advanced both in ma- 
 turity and plenty. Peasantry enlivened the fields by the labours of the 
 spade or the plough. 
 
 After quitting Shebester we came in full view of the delightful lake 
 of Shahee. It derives its name from the surrounding Mahale, which 
 may contain twenty villages. I was told that its waters are as salt 
 as the sea, and that the sand over which they flow, produces the salt 
 used at Tabriz. It extended itself N. W. and S. E. before us, and its 
 Western extremities were terminated by a stupendous chain of moun- 
 tains, whose snowy summits, softened by the haze, contrasted admirably 
 with the light azure of the lake. As we proceeded, the long moun- 
 tain (which I mentioned in the route of yesterday, extending itself and 
 forming a peninsula in the lake) appeared to have no connection what- 
 ever with the surrounding lands ; and, by a stranger to the real topo- 
 graphy, would have been pronounced an island. Its termination (to 
 the south as seen from our road) was in the form of a sugar-loaf. 
 
 Near Shebester we passed the village of MisholSh, and, lower down 
 in the plain, those of Arsaleh and Halee, on the left of the road. 
 Others indeed are seen at every turn, situated at small intervals on 
 either side alternately, all in the Mahale of GhunSh. Among them 
 are Besh-kefelont, on the left ; Khnmyelu prettily surrounded with 
 
296 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 verdure, on the right ; Shinwar, on the left again ; Kuzec-dunar, on the 
 right, three fur swigs before we reached our stage at Tasovj ; and on 
 the left, about two miles from the borders of the lake, Alibanglou, the 
 first place in the Bolouk of Aeenzaub. In this line we stopt and fed 
 our cattle and ourselves ; while a refreshing breeze from the Westward 
 just curled up the waters of the lake, and waved the corn fields which 
 extended themselves on all sides of us. 
 
 Our bread and moss was shared by a stranger who was going to 
 Oroumi, a large town, distant thirty fursungs from Tabriz ; and situated, 
 by the pointing of his hand, S. 50 W. from us, on the left or West side 
 of the lake, which the road continues to skirt through its whole course. 
 On the East of the lake is Saouk Bolag, the site of the ancient city of 
 Sheherivan. The country, through which we passed in the day, was 
 interesting and picturesque ; in every turn of the view enriched by the 
 lake and its surrounding capes and mountains. 
 
 From all that I could learn in this region, (and I inquired of many 
 who had travelled repeatedly over this part of Aderbigian), there ap- 
 peared to exist no other lake than this of Shahee. And I have as regu- 
 larly made direct inquiries about the situation of the city of Van and its 
 lake, without obtaining any thing like a satisfactory answer. On the con- 
 trary, the very existence of such a place, and such a lake, was always 
 denied ; I mention this, when the position of Van has been clearly 
 ascertained, to shew how general was the ignorance of the people on 
 every subject which was not immediately within their own circum- 
 scribed district. Nor was I more successful in my inquiries on the 
 real extent of the lake before them : every one said that it was very 
 large, and that it reached further, than from its appearance we might 
 suppose. 
 
 At about five miles from Tasonj, there is a village on the left called 
 Rahdar Khone ; and then a station of Rahdars, or custom-house officers. 
 As we passed it, one of them, a man of a much more respectable ap- 
 pearance than any of the class whom we had seen on other occasions, 
 told us that a driver with seven loaded mules had gone forwards, and 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 297 
 
 refused to pay the duties, alleging that his beasts were carrying part 
 of our baggage ; and were therefore in the King's service, and as such 
 exempt from the impost. In fact, however, my Charwardar (or con- 
 ductor of the mules or caravan) had added to my charge this number, 
 above those that were necessary for m} r purposes ; and, having already 
 received a part of their hire from me, was now employing them still 
 more to his own profit, by conveying upon them, duty-free, in my 
 name, the goods of some Tabriz merchants. On discovering the fraud, 
 I resigned him into the hands of the officer, with full liberty to exact 
 his dues ; a licence, under which he begun immediately to cudgel the 
 shoulders of the defaulter. The duties here are high, being five reals 
 on each load. 
 
 Some miles before we reached Tasouj, the lake begins to make an 
 elliptical termination, and the road to turn off on a more Northern 
 angle. We were eight hours in travelling the whole distance from 
 AH Shah, which we reckoned at thirty-two miles, on a bearing of 
 N. 60 W. Tasouj, from the great extent of the ruined walls about it, 
 appears once to have been a large place, but it is now reduced, by 
 earthquakes, to the denomination of a village. There are remains of 
 domed bazars and mosques, spread in every part of the place. 
 
 June 3. The distance from Tasouj to Khoi is called eight fursungs ; 
 we were however nine hours on the road, and calculated the journey at 
 thirty-six miles. The general direction was N. 30 W. Our course for 
 the first ten miles, to the foot of the range, (which encloses the plain 
 and lake of Shahee) bore nearly West; when we suddenly turned 
 to the North through the mountains ; and, for ten miles more, wound 
 among them through some very narrow defiles, and by some sharp 
 ascents and descents, till we reached on the opposite side the plain of 
 Khoi. Towards the lake the mountains are mostly of an argillaceous 
 soil, but change into fine earth as they approach the plain of Khoi. 
 In this direction they are green to their very summits, and their inter- 
 vening vallies are covered with the finest pastures. 
 
 We had left Tasouj by moon-light : we could not therefore discover 
 
 Q Q 
 
298 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 with any accuracy the nature of the country, which we traversed in 
 the first part of our route ; though we discerned indistinctly groves of 
 trees, and heard the falling cascade in the recesses of the vallies. The 
 first view of the plain of Khoi, from the summit of the pass in the 
 mountains, is sublime. The city and its more immediate territory are 
 seen on the N. but separated from the rest of the plain by a border 
 of green hills, which seem to divide the expanse into two parts. At 
 the distance of two fursungs from Khoi, we passed on the right the 
 village of Disajiz, surrounded by fields of wheat and barley. On the 
 left of the plain are some more villages ; and one carious mound of red 
 soil, crowned by a hillock of salt, besides several other white mounds, 
 which are described as entirely of the same substance. We passed 
 the small range of hills, and came all at once upon the more circum- 
 scribed plain of Khoi, which is opened by a seven-arched bridge, 
 bordered on each side by rocks, and forming with the fine stream 
 below a complete picture. The river is called the Otour, and flows 
 from W. to E. falling into the Arras or Araxes, about twelve fursungs 
 further to the Eastward. 
 
 The plain of Khoi (in breadth from N. to S. five miles, and in 
 length ten) was the richest tract that we had seen. It was covered 
 with corn, broken only here and there by the foliage of enclosed gar- 
 dens. Of these gardens we ventured to enter one, which was re- 
 nowned all over the country for its beauty and fruitfulness. It stands 
 on the left of the road about two miles from the walls of Khoi, and was 
 made by Hossein Khan, Governor of the city in the time of Aga 
 Mohamed Khan; but it has now become the property of the govern- 
 ment. It consists of a fine alley of chcnar trees, which leads up to a 
 pleasure-house, now falling into decay, built on the elevation of six 
 terraces, from each of which falls a beautiful cascade, conducted by 
 kanauts from the neighbouring mountains. On the right and left is a 
 wood of fruit trees of every sort and description, with a fine crop of 
 grass at their roots. From the pleasure-house is seen, through the 
 alleys of chenars, the whole territory of Khoi, one of the most lively 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 299 
 
 landscapes that we found in Persia. The thenar is really a delight- 
 ful tree ; its bole is of a fine white and smooth bark, and its foliage, 
 which grows in a tuft at the summit, is of a bright green. Those in 
 the garden had not attained their full growth. Their trunks are every 
 where carved with the invocation of " Ya AH ;" proceeding probably 
 from the ecstacies of those, who visit this little Persian paradise. 
 
 Khoi is surrounded with a wall, and with towers of a different con- 
 struction to any which we had remarked in other fortified towns of 
 Persia. They are triangular in front, with a species of connecting 
 work behind them. There are four gates, which are of stone, and very 
 superior to most of those that I had noticed elsewhere. Within the 
 walls are twenty mosques and six baths. There are said to be ten 
 thousand houses, and a population of fifty thousand persons, of which 
 the larger proportion are Armenians. The Mussulmans live in a parish 
 or MahalS of their own. The territory is so extremely fertile, that 
 Khoi, with the surrounding villages, pays annually to the public treasure 
 the sum of one hundred thousand tomauns. Khoi is much warmer, 
 from its local situation, than Tabriz. Roses here were in full flower, 
 whereas a little opening bud was reckoned a rarity at Tabriz; and 
 probably in twenty days from the date of our visit, the plain lost its 
 verdure, and assumed the beautiful gilding of a ripe corn-field. 
 
 Six fursungs South from Khoi is an equally large and populous town 
 called Salmas ; where, as I afterwards learnt at Arz-roum, are " sculp- 
 " tured rocks and many ruins." My informer added, that one of the sub- 
 jects represented two men, of whom one, looking over his left shoulder, 
 pointed with his hand to a spot which the people of the neighbourhood 
 affirm to contain a hidden treasure, though they admit that the deposit 
 has escaped all research. 
 
 4th of June, 1809- The Prince had ordered four men to attend us 
 into the Turkish territories ; and as they did not reach us at Khoi, we 
 should probably have awaited their arrival there, if I had not resisted 
 such an arrangement, declaring that it would be better to advance one 
 
 qq2 
 
300 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 mile, than in our circumstances to remain idle for one single day. Ac 
 cordingly, notwithstanding the pressing invitation of Nejef Kooli 
 Khan, the Governor, to stay the day with him, we departed for 
 PMh, a village two fursimgs from Kiwi, which I call six miles, and in 
 a bearing of N. 60 W. The morning was one of the loveliest in Spring, 
 lio-htly covered with clouds, with a softness in the air which seemed to 
 soothe every varied work of nature into tacit enjoyment of the bounty 
 and munificence of their Almighty Creator. I shall ever recollect with 
 thankfulness the delightful sensations which I experienced in passing 
 the beautiful plain of Khoi ; where every innocent sense received its 
 gratification, arid ripened into thoughts teeming with love and gratitude 
 to their divine Maker. 
 
 Every thing was rich and beautiful : the mountains were green to 
 their very summits ; and their inequalites were here and there enriched 
 by beds of wild flowers of the most lively and luxuriant hues. Scarcely 
 two miles from Khoi is a very large collection of houses and gardens, 
 which is a Mahale or parish of the town, and is well inhabited. A 
 stream from the mountains runs through it; and on the skirts to the N. 
 are two pillars of brick, which are described either as the tomb or the 
 cenotaph of a famous poet and learned Mollah of Tabriz, called ShemsL 
 PSrSh is a pretty village, situated on the declivity of the hills, which 
 gradually form the bases of the adjoining mountains; on the summit of 
 one of these hills is an old square fort, now in ruins : and in its neigh- 
 hood are two other villages called PesS and Zaidi. There are walnut- 
 trees, willows, poplars, elms, and fruit-trees of every description in the 
 highest perfection, with a great profusion of grass. 
 
 On this as well as on the other side of Tabriz, the peasants convey 
 their loads on the backs of oxen, on which indeed they frequently ride 
 themselves. At Pkrbh I saw the first wheeled-carriage (excepting gun- 
 carriages) that I had noticed in Persia. It was exactly similar to the 
 Turkish Araba. Besides their plough, which I have already described, 
 the Persians have the large rake, which serves as a harrow, and is fast 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 301 
 
 ened to a pole and drawn like a plough by yoked oxen: they have 
 another implement of agriculture, which is certainly capable of much 
 improvement. It is a pole fixt transversely on another to which the oxen 
 are yoked ; on each of these is a small wooden cylinder about half a foot 
 long : and these insignificant things are dragged as a roller over the 
 
 ground. 
 
 June the 5th. We went from PSreh to ZauviSh in six hours and a 
 half, on a bearing of N. 50 W. which may be twenty-four miles. 
 Durino- the whole of the preceding evening it had rained, accompanied 
 by thunder and lightning. Our ride, therefore, was rendered muddy. 
 From Pereh we entered some mountains of easy access ; which, about 
 ten miles before we reached Zawciih, opened into a plain surrounded 
 like a basin by mountains, on all sides gradually inclining to the centre. 
 On entering the plain, high on the right on the declivity of the moun~ 
 tain, is the village of Selawan; and on the left a small village called 
 KhorS ; and on the turn of the road towards it, are two stone lions 
 among some rude and ancient tomb-stones. The greater part of the 
 population of the plain is composed of Armenians. To the West are 
 very high mountains, the tops of which were covered with snow, and 
 their roots, when we passed by, were nearly concealed by the heavy 
 clouds that rested upon them. 
 
 The snow was melting, and frequently streams were pouring from 
 the mountains. Yet the difference of the temperature of the air here, 
 and that which we had experienced within a few days, was very sen- 
 sible ; and before sun-rise it was piercingly cold. The plain was culti- 
 vated in all parts. The whole of the soil, over which we passed, was of 
 the finest brown mould ; so that, excepting some summits of the moun- 
 tains, the country was one universal carpet of verdure. 
 
 We met a large party of the Elauts or wandering tribes, composed 
 mostly of women and children, who were travelling to a fresh encamp- 
 ment. One of the women, who had the care of two children, had dis- 
 mounted; and the extreme agility with which she got on her horse 
 
230 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 again, without any other aid than her own hands and feet, shewed how 
 much she was accustomed to this sort of life. 
 
 We sent forwards our Mehmandar to desire that tents might be 
 pitched for us, because we had been advised to avoid the village on ac- 
 count of the plague, which sometimes visits these parts. Accordingly 
 we found four tents pitched for us, two of horse-hair, (the real Kara 
 Khader of the Eels), and two white tents, rude enough indeed, but so 
 delightfully situated in the plain, surrounded by corn fields, that we 
 quite revelled in the exchange. 
 
 We had not long taken possession of our humble encampment, when 
 a storm of thunder, lightning and hail overwhelmed us, in a manner 
 which completely destroyed all the comfort of our interior arrangements. 
 Hail-stones fell in numbers which entirely filled every corner of our 
 tent, and so large, that measuring one I found it to be an inch in 
 diameter, and so strongly congealed that they lay on the ground undi- 
 minished in size, until the sun once more broke out and dissolved them. 
 The hills near us received a new covering of snow, shewing their sum- 
 mits as the storm rolled away, in sublime grandeur. The peasants told 
 us, that this weather was very common to them. Although this was 
 but an ungracious beginning to a pastoral life, yet I must own that to 
 me it still had so many delights compared with the confinement of houses, 
 that with all the present disadvantages I would willingly prefer it to a 
 residence in the towns of Persia. Among its enjoyments is that of its 
 freedom from vermin, from which (particularly fleas) we had hitherto 
 suffered so much ; not that the people are singularly dirty, but the crea- 
 tures are the usual productions of the place and season. A Persian 
 who was conversing with us in our tent, on seeing my servant beating 
 a coat with a cane to clean it of the vermin which it had collected 
 at the former stage, very gravely asked, " Pray what crime has that 
 " coat committed, that makes the Frangee beat it so?" 
 
 June the 6th. The quantity of rain that had fallen during the 
 course of the day had completely saturated the greatest part of our 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 SOS 
 
 clothes and baggage, and materially increased the weight of the lading 
 
 of our mules. Thanks to God, it did not rain in the night ; and we 
 
 slept soundly till about an hour before the break of day, when we 
 
 quitted our black tents for the village of Cara-aintfi. The distance, 
 
 on a bearing of N. 20 W. is called five fursungs ; but though we were 
 
 nearly six hours on the road, I shall not reckon it at more than eighteen 
 
 miles, because we were delayed in our progress by the mud, which the 
 
 rain and hail had created. We took a turn to the Eastward from our 
 
 encampment, and came to a village called Iekaftee, on the borders of 
 
 a mountain torrent swoln and rendered so rapid by the late storms, 
 
 that two or three of our mules had nearly been carried away by its 
 
 violence. On the right of the road (at the distance of five miles from 
 
 our last station) is a spring dammed up, except at an aperture in one 
 
 of its corners, through which a small quantity of water is permitted to 
 
 ooze out, called in Turkish, Ak-bolagh, or " white spring :" and three 
 
 miles further, and distant from the road two miles, on the left, is a 
 
 collection of a few wretched hovels called KurkendSh, surrounded by 
 
 cultivated fields. About this spot the road was formerly so infested with 
 
 the Curdistan robbers, that it was never passed without danger : but since 
 
 Prince A rb as Mtt?za has had the government of Aderbigian in his 
 
 hands, he has so completely expelled the freebooters from their haunts, 
 
 that no district is now so safe. We traversed a pass formed by the 
 
 gradual meeting of the roots of the mountains, and then entered an 
 
 oval plain, extending, on a rough calculation, in length eight miles 
 
 from N. to S. and three in breadth. The village of Cara-ainih, our 
 
 Menzil, is here immediately seen, and is easily marked by a square fort, 
 
 which, rising from the midst of its miserable huts, appears a palace in 
 
 comparison. This village is the chief of a MahalS of the same name, 
 
 composed of about twenty-one villages, the principal of which are 
 
 Hiderlou, Nabekandi, Gelish Acha, Sedei, Zaiveh, and Ak-dezeh. From 
 
 Cara-aineh there is a road to Van, a distance of fifty miles, on a 
 
 bearing of S. W. 
 
304 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 We had now reached the dregs of Persia. Beyond Khoi and FSrSk 
 both the habitations and the people bore an appearance of misery, in- 
 dicative of a neglected country. This deterioration is probably inse- 
 parable from the borders of two states, which are ill-defined as to ter- 
 ritory and actual property. None but the Ket Khoda had a decent 
 coat, and all the rest were in tatters and beggary. 
 
 The Thaubet of Cara-aineh had been appointed to his government 
 only the day before our arrival, an excuse which he alleged for his 
 inability to satisfy us in several of our inquiries. His appearance, in- 
 deed, bespoke the truth of his apology; for he was dressed from head 
 to foot in new clothes, new cap, new coat, new slippers ; doubtless to 
 impress his peasantry with a sense of his superiority. We had rain all 
 the day, and almost incessant thunder and lightning. The tract over 
 which we passed, though generally of admirable soil, was for the greater 
 part waste. We saw, however, immense flocks, some perhaps of one 
 thousand sheep, grazing in the fat pastures on the declivities and in the 
 recesses of the mountains ; and large herds also of mares with their 
 foals. These were the property of the Elauts: the mares belonging to 
 the King are kept in Mazanderan, which is said to afford the finest 
 pasture of his dominions. Their foals arc thence distributed to the 
 troops as they may be wanted. The Guardian or Controller of these 
 Royal herds is an officer of considerable consequence, and is selected 
 always from men of rank and importance in the state. He is called 
 Elkhce-chee or Master of the Mares, and resides at Asterabad, where he 
 holds his office, registering every foal as it falls. He has subordinate 
 agents, entrusted severally with the charge of twenty mares, and with 
 the choice of their pastures, besides the inferior grooms who tend the 
 animals daily. The foals are not backed until they have completed 
 their third year. 
 
 7th. The morning was darkened by clouds which covered the 
 whole sky; the thickest resting on the tops of the mountains, and 
 extending themselves in some parts nearly to the bases. We quitted 
 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 305 
 
 our wretched habitation at Cara-ainSh, to pace a miserable road ; the 
 bottom of which, always wet and deep, was rendered still more 
 impracticable by a shower of rain that overtook us, soon after we had 
 quitted the village. Almost at the extremity of the plain is a swamp ; 
 on the surface of the waters of which were innumerable flocks of ducks 
 and other wild-fowl. We noticed two cranes stepping away before us 
 at a great pace, and hiding their legs from us by letting fall their 
 tails. The soil was rich almost beyond calculation, and afforded the 
 finest pastures. We crossed the village of Ak-dezeh, and then leaving 
 the plain, wound through the vallies which were formed by the Western 
 mountains. The whole country was watered by numerous torrents; 
 on the borders of one we spread as our breakfast, the scanty remains 
 of our yesterday's meal ; which, in such a spot however, would have 
 been a real treat to the lovers of romance. The scene indeed, alone, 
 consoled us for our bad fare at Cara-ainSh. A stupendous mass of 
 rock rose perpendicularly over our heads ; and at our feet foamed and 
 roared the torrent, while the whole view was enriched by the verdure 
 of the distant landscape, and enlivened by the chirping of innumerable 
 birds. About twelve miles from Cara-aineh are several hills ; the de- 
 clivities of which are strewed with large masses of black rock, evidently 
 from their weight and their calcined appearance, full of metal. The 
 whole seems to be volcanic matter. 
 
 After quitting these hills we came into the plain, at the extremity of 
 which is situated Agajilc, a miserable Armenian village, about the same 
 size as our former stage. We were six hours and a half in travelling 
 the distance, twenty-two miles, on a bearing of N. 20 W. In the 
 centre of the plain a caravan, from Oroumi, was grazing its mules : the 
 driver of it told us, that he had been eight days on the journey, at 
 the rate of four agatch a day, making a total of about one hundred 
 miles. Here the distances are measured by the agatch, which corres- 
 ponds exactly to the sahat or hour. The village consisted of huts, 
 surrounding an old square fort on a hill. Our lodging was a 
 covered building, in the roof of which were two small holes to admit 
 
 R R 
 
306 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 light ; and in the interior of which a square of twenty feet was parted off 
 by a wall three feet high, for the residence of the master, while the 
 remainder was reserved for his cattle. The costume of the people was 
 changing fast ; and the black sheep-skin cap of Persia was scarcely seen. 
 
 The day was overspread with clouds till near sun-set, when it cleared 
 away a little to the Northward, and shewed us the sublime and 
 venerable mountain of Ararat. It bore N. 10 E. of our station, and 
 presented a stupendous mass to our view. The Persians told me that 
 it was eight hours distance from us ; and added many a story of its 
 wonders. Such as — that no one, who attempted to ascend it, ever 
 returned ; and that one hundred men who had been sent from Arz- 
 roum by the Pacha, to effect the undertaking, all died. The Armenian 
 priest assured me, with a very grave face, that the ark was still there. 
 There is a smaller mountain on the same range, bearing N. 30 E. which 
 is called by the Turks, Cochuk Agri-dagh, as the larger Ararat is 
 called Agri-dagh. Ararat is the Macis of the Armenians. The 
 sources of the Euphrates are twelve hours from Agajik, in a direction 
 of N. 50 W. by the peasant's pointing. The Armenians told me 
 that they had a Zeeauret, or place of devotion, at the sources called 
 Wes Kionk. 
 
 8th. We left Agajik with five men, who, according to the custom, 
 accompanied us out of their frontier into the Turkish territory. At 
 about two miles and a half from Agajik is another Armenian village, 
 called KilsS, from the ruins of a church (EcclesiaJ, which forms a 
 conspicuous object among its mean huts, being well-built with a fine 
 white stone, with arched doors and windows. Even in its ruins, how- 
 ever, the present poor inhabitants still contrive to keep up a place of 
 worship within the interior. 
 
 About three miles and a half N. 30 W. from Agajik, are the 
 boundaries of the Persian and Turkish territories marked by a ruined 
 tower, situated in the centre of a valley. 
 
 As we were feeding our horses, the person whom we had sent to 
 Bay azid (to intimate our approach to the locum-tenens of Ibrahim 
 
 i 
 
\ 
 
 \ 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 307 
 
 Pacha, who was himself on an excursion against the Courds) returned, 
 and told us that the Acting-governor would not receive us into the 
 city, nor give us a passage near it; alleging as a reason, that his 
 master the Pacha had left strict orders, that during his absence no 
 strangers, and particularly no Persians, should be admitted. This 
 unexpected news staggered us at first, but at length we determined to 
 send one of the Mirza's own men to exert the influence of his master's 
 station in our favour. We proceeded, following our messenger : the 
 road took a turn to N. 30 E. and shewed us once again in a much 
 larger exposure than before the stupendous Ararat. It is indeed a 
 sublime and almost terrific object. It rises from an immense variety 
 of lands ; and is covered with snow, and almost always surrounded 
 with clouds. 
 
 We stopt at a small Armenian village called Kerdek, (on the left of 
 the road, one fursung from Bayazid,) to await the return of our second 
 messenger. We did not tarry long, when he appeared, though only to 
 confirm the report of his predecessor. The Turks would not suffer him 
 even alone to enter the city ; for as soon as he approached, they fired 
 a musket or two, to convince him that their resistance would not be 
 confined to threats ; and when he endeavoured to come to a parley, 
 they answered him only with ill language and abuse. We determined 
 therefore immediately upon taking a circuit to avoid Bayazid, and 
 seeking Ibrahim Pacha himself, from whom we expected a hand- 
 some reception ; as the Persians represented him to me as a vassal of 
 their Prince Abbas Mirza, fearing Him rather than his own sovereign. 
 Our road to day averaged N. 10 W. a. distance of ten miles ; the same 
 bearing indeed may be extended to Bayazid, on a further distance of 
 four miles. Bayazid, as I learned in its neighbourhood, is situated 
 close at the foot of Mount Ararat : it is peopled principally by Ar- 
 menians. On a hill about it, is a castle, which by its defenders is said 
 to be strong; they are very jealous however of the curiosity of a 
 Persian. 
 
 RU2 
 
308 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 9th. Three men, whom we anxiously expected from Prince Abbas 
 Mirza to accompany us to Constantinople, joined us on the evening of 
 the 8th ; and so far therefore our delay at this miserable village was 
 convenient. We gave them just time to feed their horses ; and then, 
 about an hour before sun-set, resumed our march to take up our quar- 
 ters for the night on the bank of a little running stream ; the rich pas- 
 tures, through which the waters flowed, refreshed our cattle, but we our- 
 selves were obliged to pass the night in the open field with a heavy dew 
 falling, yet, thank God, with a fine clear sky. During the course of the 
 night a Turk arrived from Bayazid to say, that he was sent by the 
 Kiayah to be our Mehmandar to the presence of his master; adding, 
 indeed, that the Vice-Governor regretted the misunderstanding on which 
 he had acted, for he had been told that we were followed by a large 
 body of horsemen. On further questioning the Turk we found, that the 
 wife of Ibrahim Pacha (hearing that there was an Elchee, an Em- 
 bassador, without the town, and that admittance had been refused to 
 him) made loud remonstrances to the Kiayah on the impropriety of his 
 conduct, and interceded so far in our behalf that he sent us these ex- 
 cuses. Though we were ill satisfied with the conduct of this person, 
 we thought it better not to reject the attendance of the officer whom he 
 had deputed to escort us, as we were among a wild and unmanageable 
 people. 
 
 We travelled an hour and a half, in one of the clearest and most 
 beautiful mornings that the heavens ever produced ; aud passing on our 
 left the two villages of DizzSh and Kizzil Dizzeh, we came to an open- 
 ing of a small plain covered with the black tents and cattle of the 
 Elauts. Here also we had a view of Mount Ararat; the clouds no 
 longer rested on its summit, but circled round it below. We went to 
 the largest tent in the plain, and there enjoyed an opportunity of learn- 
 ing that the hospitality of these people is not exaggerated. As soon as 
 it was announced at the tent that strangers were coming, every thing 
 was in motion : some carried our horses to the best pastures, others 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 309 
 
 spread carpets for us, one was dispatched to the flock to bring a fat 
 lamb, the women immediately made preparation for cooking, and we 
 had not sat long before two large dishes of stewed lamb, with several 
 basins of yaourt, were placed before us. The senior of the tribe, an 
 old man (by his own account indeed more than eighty-five years of a^e) 
 dressed in his best clothes, came out to us, and welcomed us to his tent 
 with such kindness, yet with such respect, that his sincerity could not 
 be mistaken. He was still full of activity and fire, although he had lost 
 all his teeth, and his beard was as white as the snow on the venerable 
 mountain near his tent. The simplicity of his manners and the in- 
 teresting scenery around reminded me, in the strongest colours of the 
 life of the patriarchs : and more immediately of Him whose history is 
 inseparable from the mountains of Ararat. Nothing indeed could ac- 
 cord better with the spot than the figure of our ancient host. His 
 people were a part of the tribe of Jelalee, and their principal seat was 
 Erivan; but they ranged through the country: 
 
 And pastured on from verdant stage to stage, 
 Where fields and fountains fresh could best ens-ace. 
 Toil was not then : of nothing took they heed 
 But with wild beasts the sylvan war to wage, 
 And o'er vast plains their herds and flocks to feed ; 
 Blest sons of nature they ! true golden age indeed. 
 
 Castle of Indolence, xxxvii. 
 
 We quitted our hospitable friends, (who appeared to be almost 
 more grateful for our visit than we for their kindness), and passed along 
 the plain. Mount Ararat bore N. 40 E. and extended itself com- 
 pletely to our view. Its N. W. ascent is not so rapid as its S. E. and 
 I should conceive that in this quarter it might be possible to ascend it. 
 In six hours and a half, after leaving our last encampment, we reached 
 Diadin. It is a large village with a fort and towers ; under which, in a 
 deep channel of perpendicular rock, runs the eastern Euphrates, there a 
 shallow stream about twenty feet in breadth. It rises about four agatck 
 
310 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 ox* twelve miles from Dladin, on a bearing of S. 50 W. by the direction 
 of a mans hand; and in the country is called the Fiat ; the name 
 assumed at Arz-roum, by the Western stream. 
 
 At Diadin we were not permitted to go near their miserable castle. 
 The homes of the place are built of mud and stones, and the rooms are 
 calculated to lodge the animals as well as the family. A small com- 
 partment only is reserved for the master; and in general the rest of the 
 space is left for his cattle. We did not, indeed, enter their habitations, 
 for every door was shut against us ; and when, by great management, 
 we had secured shelter for ourselves, our people, and our cattle, we 
 found equal difficulty in procuring food. Abdulla Pacha, a rebel 
 C&urd, with whom Ibrahim Pacha was at open war, had in fact car- 
 ried away all the flocks, and destroyed all the crops of this village. 
 We could not therefore expect an easy supply of corn for our horses ; 
 but after much intreaty a little was produced, for which indeed we paid 
 an amazing price. A piece of barley bread was delivered to each man ; 
 and the masters, by a very marked favour, were supplied with a mess of 
 eggs and a basin of yaonrt. 
 
 The houses for the Conaks or reception of strangers, here as in all 
 other places in Turkey were regularly defined ; but when the Mirza and 
 I were entering that appropriated to ourselves, we were received at the 
 door by a woman, who, with her face totally uncovered, boldly bad 
 defiance to the Conak-chee, and (with the most threatening looks, and 
 with all the volubility of her sex,) swore that nobody should enter her 
 dwelling. However, by a little negotiation we pacified our hostess, 
 and were at length admitted into her stable, where we spread our car- 
 pets and composed ourselves to sleep. The women here barely cover 
 their faces ; and, as we afterwards learnt, are notorious for depravity : 
 they appear very healthy. The men are as wild as savages, and seem 
 to be under no law. Independently of their own immediate distresses, 
 one of the reasons for their inhospitality to Persians is very natural; 
 several Embassadors had been sent to Constanti?wple, and since that 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 311 
 
 time every traveller, who had two or three attendants, assumed the same 
 dignity. The discovery of the fraud has necessarily roused the caution 
 of the Turks. 
 
 10th. We were nine hours on the road to Youngali, called nine 
 agatch, and which I calculated at thirty-two miles on a bearing of N. 
 65 W. The Euphrates accompanied us all the way through a country 
 of grass, but of little cultivation. Four miles after leaving Diadin we 
 passed the village of Jugan, about a mile and a half on our left : then 
 four miles further, still on the left and on the other bank of the Euphrates, 
 Utch Klisse. Here a high and snow-covered mountain called KussS 
 Dagh appears in view ; and (extending to the S. and W.) the range of 
 Ala-Dagh. In the village is an Armenian Church, a very respectable 
 looking building, much resembling an European structure. It has two 
 wings wi th a shelving roof, and is covered by a small dome built of 
 stone, apparently not in much decay. 
 
 At the termination of that branch of the mountain near which 
 Utch KlissS stands, there is a stone bridge thrown over the Euphrates. 
 We continued by the bank of the river, which winds from E. to W. 
 creating verdure on each side as it flows. We passed through a 
 village now in ruins called Alakou ; and on the slope of the hill (three 
 miles on the left of the road) that of Comoulja ; another called Belasou, 
 is close on the banks of the river ; and, about eight miles further, 
 having passed the miserable huts at Cadi Kieu, we reached after a very 
 sultry ride, our Conak at Youngali. All these villages are in the MahalS 
 of Alashgerd. 
 
 When we had been about an hour on our road, I missed a small 
 carpet from my baggage, and sent back therefore my servant to 
 reclaim it from our host at Diadin. From the looks which he cast at 
 our goods, I had frequently suspected his honesty, but I might have 
 spared my suspicions and my trouble ; fori received nothing but oaths. 
 Near to Utch Klisse, we met the battering train of Ibhahim Pacha, 
 which consisted of two field pieces, returning from the siege of Turpa 
 CaUh, the castle of Timuk Beg, who had revolted from his authority. 
 
312 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 We learned that after a siege of five months, in which the Pacha had 
 fired his guns one hundred and fifty times at the town and castle, he 
 had succeeded in killing one fowl and one dog. 
 
 Ibrahim Pacha, who was at another village three miles from 
 Youngali, sent his Haznadar or treasurer to escort us to our lodging. 
 The misery here was even greater than that of the preceding day. No 
 corn for our horses, nor even grass without hard blows. The whole of 
 the country was in a state of absolute devastation from the incursions of 
 the Courds ; and our course presented nothing but difficulties, for 
 Ibrahim Pacha was at war with all the country round. He pro- 
 fessed indeed to respect the firman of Abbas Mirza, and when we 
 sent him that with which we had been furnished, he immediately carried 
 it to his head, saying that he was the Prince's servant in all things ; 
 and that there was nothing which he would not willingly do to serve 
 him. We never fared worse, however, than at this village. The 
 people that surrounded us bore the looks of savages, and then general 
 behaviour corresponded with their appearance. 
 
 To the South of Youngali, as I was told at the place, lies Van ; and 
 to the S. W. the large Mahale of Kensus. 
 
 11th. We left Youngali, dissatisfied with our host: the Persians 
 indeed were miserable with the scanty hospitality which they received 
 at his village. When we were left by the two officers, who escorted 
 us to their master's frontier, we were advised not to go near Turpa 
 Caleh, as w r e should undoubtedly be molested. Yet the situation, in 
 which this war of the rival chiefs had placed us, was so difficult, that 
 we incurred equal hazard either in passing the castle of Timur Beg, 
 without offering our respects, or in venturing near it after coming from 
 the domains of his enemy. We determined therefore to state our 
 story simply, and throw ourselves on his hospitality. We crossed a 
 most beautiful plain covered with villages, and watered by numerous 
 streams. We forded three considerable torrents, which poured from 
 the N. mountains, and, swoln by the melting snows, threw themselves 
 into the Euphrates, which was flowing at the Southern extremity of the 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 313 
 
 plain from E. to W. Three miles from Youngali we came to Cara- 
 Klissty a large village peopled by Courds and Armenians; and then 
 made a circuit to the N. to avoid a swampy road in the centre of the 
 plain. We passed through several villages, the inhabitants of which 
 seeing the numbers of our company mistook us for one of the fight- 
 ing parties, and crowded on the tops of their houses at our ap- 
 proach. Of these places, the principal were named Datte TapS, Kesick, 
 and Arnat. 
 
 Turpa Caleh is situated N. 60 W. from Youngali, on a distance of 
 about fifteen miles or four hours. It is a larger place than any that we 
 had seen since Khoi. The town is scattered on the slope of a conical 
 hill, on the top of which is a castle. This the Turks deem impregnable, 
 and with justice, if the failure of the late siege be a criterion, though 
 the fort seems in every part accessible to cannon. The high mountain 
 of Kusse Dagh overlooks the town and attracts continual clouds over 
 it. We proceeded warily ; and, about a mile before we reached the 
 place, halted and sent forwards a man to reconnoitre the appearance 
 and dispositions of the people, and to report on the expediency of our 
 advance. He returned with the intelligence that we had nothing to 
 fear ; and we directed our course therefore to the Conac or dwelling of 
 the Kiayah, the chief officer of Timur Beg. Here we dismounted, 
 and were introduced immediately into a dark room, where twenty 
 torpid Turks were indulging themselves in the quiet delights of smoking. 
 The Kiayah sat in the corner, but rose when the Mirza entered ; and, 
 having said the usual " Khosh gueldin" (you are welcome,) closed his 
 lips and left his guest to display the compliments and insinuative flat- 
 tery so natural to his nation. The loquaciousness and vivacity of the 
 Persian formed an inimitable contrast with the dull and heavy laconism 
 of the Turk. 
 
 When we had smoked and drunk coffee, a man came to inform us 
 that Timur Beg was ready to receive us. The Mirza and I immedi- 
 ately proceeded, leaving the rest of our party with the Kiayah. We 
 ascended to the castle by a steep and difficult path, and entered it by 
 
 s s 
 
314 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 a large iron door. We were introduced into a spacious room at the 
 summit. The Chief (attended by all his principal warriors gravely 
 seated around) occupied a window commanding an extensive view of 
 the country over which we had travelled, and more particularly the 
 district of his rival, the Pacha. When we also were seated, and the 
 usual compliments had passed, the Mirza begun a prepared speech un- 
 folding our condition, announcing that we threw ourselves at his mercy, 
 asking the rights of hospitality from him, and intermixing throughout 
 some very severe invective against his enemy the Faclia. The mode 
 succeeded : and Timur Beg instantly replied, that we had nothing to 
 fear; that under his protection we were safe; that our necessities should 
 be supplied, and that his officers should receive orders to treat us with 
 distinction and kindness at a neighbouring village; for he hoped, as the 
 only favour that he required of us, that we would not sojourn in his 
 castle for that night. 
 
 When these preliminaries were settled, I had time to observe that 
 there was much to admire in our host. He was about forty years of 
 age, with a singularly open and manly countenance, and with manners 
 the most graceful and dignified. He related his own history and his 
 differences with Ibrahim Pacha in language so simple, yet so expres- 
 sive, that we acquired a deep interest in his fate; particularly, when he 
 expatiated on the Pacha 3 's tyranny and inordinate rapaciousness, and on 
 the misery in which his exactions had involved all the peasantry of the 
 district. During the course however of his conversation with the Mirza, 
 1 remarked one of his observations which was very characteristic of a 
 semi-barbarous society. He inquired who I was? and being informed 
 that I was of the Sect of Isau (Jesus), or, in other words, a Christian, 
 'he continued (with a look of pity, having observed that I had refused 
 a pipe), " These fellows, I hear, have neither pipes nor tobacco in 
 m their country: haimn dar, they are beasts:" as if to say, assuming 
 -that we did not possess the knowledge or the means of their favourite 
 Enjoyment, " how far inferior to us must those be who cannot 
 "smdke." 
 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-RGUM. 
 
 315 
 
 Our host kept strictly to his word : we were seat forwards four miles 
 further to the promised village of Molah Suleiman, escorted by two of 
 his officers ; and supplied with all that the place could afford, a sheep, 
 fowls, and rice for ourselves, and corn for our horses. 
 
 12th. We passed over a mountainous tract of country from Molah 
 Suleiman to Deli-baba, a distance which we travelled in ten hours, and 
 which I reckoned at thirty-five miles, on a bearing of N. 30 W. as well 
 as the intricacies of the turns would permit me to observe. Before we 
 entered the mountains, (when we had travelled about three miles, and 
 just above the little village of Zadtih,) I had the parting view of Mount 
 Ararat, which bore from us N. 80 E. We were told that the road was 
 much infested by the Courds, particularly at a pass in the mountains 
 called Gerdina, and we placed ourselves therefore in a posture of de- 
 fence. But we traversed the whole extent without seeing a human 
 being, till we reached Dakar, a village of Courds in the mountains 
 twenty miles from Molah Suleiman. We then proceeded winding in 
 a variety of directions, with a scorching sun over our heads, to the 
 entrance of a pass which, through two stupendous rocks, leads into the 
 plain of Deli-baba. This pass might be made an admirable military 
 position, and in its present state is a most picturesque object. A 
 stream from the mountains runs through it: on the left is a rock 
 three hundred feet perpendicular, and on the other side is another of 
 less height, but pierced with three holes, as if it were by the hand 
 of man. 
 
 On entering the plain we saw numbers of peasants with their arabahs 
 or carts. They told us they had fled from their village in the fear of 
 Abdulla Aga, who, from his station near Erivan, makes predatory 
 excursions all over the country. They added that Deli-baba was 
 totally depopulated ; however we did not believe them, and proceeded. 
 We found indeed a very bad reception, for the inhabitants mistook us 
 for enemies, collected together at our approach, refused us admittance, 
 and fired several muskets at us. At length the chief of the village 
 came out to meet us, and we agreed to establish ourselves at a distance, 
 
 « s2 
 
316 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 feed our cattle, and depart. The fear of Abdulla Aga created such 
 a distrust, that we were avoided by every one whom we met ; and 
 even when any permitted us to approach, all our assurances were in- 
 sufficient to inspire them with confidence. Although we offered great 
 prices for the necessaries of our supply, the people would hardly sell a 
 single article ; and the few pieces of bread and eggs which formed 
 our meal at Deli-baba were not procured without the greatest 
 difficulty. 
 
 Although the country is in a terrible state of disturbance, caravans 
 travel freely on the road. We met a large one which had been eight 
 days from Arz-roum. Our mule-driver happened to kill a serpent ; he 
 cut it immediately in two pieces, and threw the parts on different sides, 
 saying, " It is a lucky sign, our enemies will not overcome us." 
 
 The soil over which we passed was admirably rich, and the most 
 delightful spring reigned on the tops of the mountains, where we 
 culled nosegays of a thousand hues; yet the snow lay in several 
 places, and covered the fetlocks of our horses, while close to it rose 
 every flower. 
 
 13th. We quitted the village of Deli-baba early in the morning, 
 having passed a night full of anxiety and watchfulness in the open 
 fields; as we were told that we were not safe, and might probably be 
 attacked, though nothing, thank God, disturbed us. We proceeded 
 on a bearing of West to Amra Kieu, a village prettily situated at the 
 utmost extremity of a plain, and surrounded by some trees, (in our 
 later course a very scarce object) the willow and the plane. We crossed 
 a beautiful country cultivated in most parts, and considering the ex- 
 treme misery of the inhabitants themselves, looking very prosperous. 
 The spring was here in its first burst, and the corn was scarcely a 
 span high : the fields were no longer watered by dikes as in Persia, 
 for the nature of the seasons and of the country render unnecessary any 
 artificial means of irrigation. The hills to the Northward of the plain, 
 through which we passed, rise in a gentle acclivity, and to our view 
 displayed habitations and culture ; but as we met no person on the 
 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 317 
 
 road, I could not learn the names of the villages in various parts. At 
 two hours, (seven miles,) from Deli-baba, and about a mile from the 
 road, is Batman Kieu, situated in the bosom of a valley delightfully 
 watered and cultivated. The houses of Amra Kieu, our resting place, 
 are built with the fir tree, and their roofs are formed by rafters of 
 wood, geometrically placed, which are afterwards covered with earth, 
 and constitute a strong dome. This is a better construction than any 
 that we had lately observed. Small two- wheeled carts, to which oxen 
 are yoked, are used here by the peasantry. The sheep are very fine, 
 with large tails and good wool. 
 
 14th. We went from Amra Kieu, due West towards Alwar, ten miles. 
 Three miles after quitting Amra Kieu, we came to the banks of the 
 Araxes ; which enters the plain from the mountains near Yaghan, a large 
 village situated about three miles from the road. The stream flows 
 here from N. 65 E. to S. 30 W. It takes its rise in the MahalS of 
 Khunus ; and where it issues from the ground is called Bin Gieul, or 
 a thousand springs. In its course it closely follows the mountains which 
 we had left at the extremity of the plain. Little irrigation is draivn 
 from it through the neighbouring territory. We crossed it over a very 
 well-built stone bridge of seven arches ; by the measurement of which 
 the river was about one hundred and sixty paces in breadth. Just 
 at this point a stream flows into it from the Westward, taking its 
 course close to Hassan CalSh. Immediately on passing the bridge 
 we came to a village called Kupri Kieu, and then continued on a 
 fine road, and through a delightful plain strewed with villages, distant 
 in general two or three miles from each other. The principal of these 
 are ArsunjSh, on the left, and Gumec and Miagen, on the right of the 
 road. All the plain was well cultivated ; and the peasants were here 
 sowing their corn. We passed by Hassan CaUh, a large town situated 
 around a hill ; on the summit is an old fortification, the curious walls of 
 which are chequered with the embrasures of former times. We crossed 
 the stream by the town, over a bridge of two arches. Close to the 
 
118 
 
 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 bridge is a bath built over a spring, the heat of which is almost 
 that of scalding water: yet when we looked in, several men were 
 up to their chins in it. The basin is about thirty feet in diameter, 
 and is enclosed by an old structure. Several other springs of the same, 
 temperature adjoin it. 
 
 We had procured a man from the Governor (CaziJ of Hassan 
 CaUh y to conduct us to Alwar, but the Aga of that place posi- 
 tively refused to admit us or to lodge us, and added in direct terms 
 that he did not care for Cazi, Pacha, or any one else, and that 
 we might go any where we chose; if at least we did not dis- 
 turb Him. After vollies of abuse on both sides, we were content 
 as before to take up our quarters in the open fields, under the 
 shade of a tree, that luckily was situated near the village, and 
 saved US from an ardent sun. Here we saw geese for the 
 first time. 
 
 Whilst seated under the tree, vowing vengeance on the Aga of 
 Alwar, (having dispatched a man to the Governor of Arz-roum to 
 state our case), we were visited by a respectable, yet sly-looking 
 Turk, who came quietly and settled himself on our carpet. He begun 
 by telling us that he was a yoljee (a traveller) like ourselves ; and in- 
 quired what made us so angry. We broke out into every species of 
 invective against the Aga of the village, who had obliged us to remain 
 like our horses and mules, under a tree, refusing us the most common 
 offices of hospitality; and added, that we had in consequence sent a 
 messenger to the Governor of Arz-roum to complain of the affront, 
 hoping at the same time that the inhospitable Aga would either lose his 
 head, or at least get a severe bastinado. We had some suspicion that 
 the personage to whom we were talking was the very Aga himself, and 
 were therefore less scrupulous in our abuse. This suspicion proved 
 true: our visitor begun by taking the Agas part, saying that the coun- 
 try was in a great state of alarm, and that the people feared to receive" 
 into their towns so many strangers, and particularly Persians, and 
 

 TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
 
 319 
 
 finished in his own person by intreating us not to write to the Gover- 
 nor of Arz-roum. He went away accordingly in some fright, and 
 allowed us to get provisions from his village, a permission which he had 
 not granted before. 
 
 We spent the night, however, in the open air, and in the fear of 
 rain : much, indeed, was falling on all sides of us with thunder and 
 lightning. 
 

 
 CHAP. XVIL 
 
 ARZROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 arz-roum: description of the city; ancient state: popu- 
 lation: climate: visit to the governor; entertain- 
 ment; TURKISH DISHES DEPARTURE BATHS OF ILIJA : THE 
 
 DELHIS THE EUPHRATES BUILDINGS AT MAMAKHATOUN 
 
 TRADITION OF THEIR ERECTION CHIFLIK : CULTIVATION 
 
 TARTARS ON THE ROAD FROM CONSTANTINOPLE CARAJA : 
 
 DINNER PERSIAN FROM PARIS — STORM GRANDEUR OF THE 
 
 APPROACH TO CARA-HISSAR DELAY IN THE TOWN THE 
 
 RIVER KELKI IRMAC, THE ANCIENT LYCUS KULEY-HISSAR 
 
 DIFFERENCE OF PROPERTY IN TURKEY AND IN PERSIA EXCA- 
 VATED ROCK HISTORY OF A BOSNIAN STRANGER COUNTRY 
 
 ROUND NIKSAR, THE ANCIENT NEOCjESAREA ENTRANCE INTO 
 
 TOCAT : DESCRIPTION; TRADE TURKHAL STATION OF GUARDS 
 
 APPROACHES TO AMASIA. 
 
 1809, June 15th. We arrived at Arz-roum, after riding fifteen miles 
 on a bearing of W. over a chalky road. The city presents itself in a 
 very picturesque manner ; its old minarets and decayed turrets, rising 
 abruptly to the view. Our baggage was carried to the Custom-house, 
 notwithstanding all our remonstrances and claims of privilege. The 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 321 
 
 caution of the Turks, though in this instance unnecessary, was not un- 
 justifiable, tor a former Persian Embassador had concealed merchants 
 in his suite, who, under his name, passed large quantities of fine 
 goods. 
 
 Arz-roum is built on a rising ground : on the highest part is the 
 castle, surrounded by a double wall of stone, which is chequered at the 
 top by embrasures, and strengthened here and there by projections in 
 the fashion of bastions, with openings fit for the reception of cannon. 
 It has four gates, which are covered with plates of iron. The whole is 
 well-built, and to me does not appear the work of Mussulmans. A 
 ditch runs by it to the S. W. ; near it is a tannery ; and further on is a 
 row of blacksmiths' forges, which seemed in good employ. In this 
 direction (N. EL of the town) is the Custom-house, a spacious building. 
 The Pachas residence has a large gate opening into a court-yard. 
 The houses are in general built of stone, with rafters of wood, and 
 terraced. Grass grows on their tops, and sheep and calves feed there ; 
 so that, when seen from an eminence, the roofs of the houses can hardly 
 be distinguished from the plain at their foundation. I walked through 
 most of the bazars; few are domed, the rest are terraced, like the 
 dwellings, but affording a common road for foot-passengers, who 
 ascend by a public flight of steps. Wherever a street intervenes, a 
 bridge is thrown over, and the line continues uninterrupted. The 
 shops in the bazars are well stocked, and the place exhibits an appear- 
 ance of much industry. The streets are mostly paved ; but, as in 
 Turkey, in that manner which is more calculated to break the passen- 
 ger's neck than to ease his feet. There are sixteen baths, and one 
 hundred mosques ; several of the latter are creditable buildings, the 
 domes of which are covered with lead, and ornamented with gilt balls 
 and crescents. 
 
 This is the present state of Arz-roum ; its remains prove that it must 
 have been still more considerable. Every thing attests the antiquity 
 of the place; the inhabitants indeed date the foundation from the 
 
 T T 
 
322 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 time of Noah, and very zealously swear, that some of their present 
 structures were contemporary with the Patriarch : with less hazard of 
 truth, or rather with much appearance of probability, they aver that 
 others were the work of the Giaours, or Infidels. One in particular is 
 attributed to the latter origin ; it consists of an arched gateway, curi- 
 ously worked all in strong stone, situated N. W. in the castle, and 
 close to a decayed minaret of ancient structure. Yet many of the 
 older fabrics appear by the true Moresque arch, to be certainly of 
 Saracenic origin ; and many of the remains of mosques resemble those 
 buildings in Persia, with curious bricks, and lacquered tiles, which 
 were raised in the first ages of Mahomedanism. In all those at 
 Arz-roum, I observed a round tower, with a very shelving roof, covered 
 all over with bricks. There are still erect several minarets, obviously 
 works of the early Mussulmans. Near the Eastern gate of the castle 
 are two of brick and tile, and a gate (with a Saracenic arch and a 
 Ciific inscription) and many strong stone buildings around, the remains 
 of the fine portico of a mosque. To the East of the town is an old 
 tower of brick, the highest building in Arz-roum 9 which is used as a 
 look-out-house, and serves as the tower of the Janizaries at Constanti- 
 nople, or that of Galata. There is a clock at the summit, which strikes 
 the hours with sufficient regularity. 
 
 In Arz-roum there are from four to five thousand families of the 
 Armenian, and about one hundred of the Greek, persuasion : the 
 former have two churches, the latter one. There are perhaps one 
 thousand Persians who live in a Caravanserai, and manage by caravans 
 the trade of their own country. TreUsond is the port on the Black 
 Sea, to which the commerce of Constantinople is conveyed. The 
 Turkish inhabitants of Arz-rottm are fifty thousand families. This 
 amount of the population I give from the authority of a well-informed 
 Armenian ; but as all such details in a country so ill-regulated are ex- 
 ceedingly suspicious, I have already taken the liberty to deduct more 
 than one-third from the number of Turkish families in the original esti- 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 323 
 
 mate. But the reduced statement still leaves in Arz-roum, at the rate of 
 five persons in a family, a total of two hundred and fifty thousand per- 
 sons, besides Armenians. 
 
 The climate of Arz-roum is very changeable, and must in winter be 
 piercingly cold. It rained throughout the whole of the 19th, but the 
 clouds dispersed on the morrow, and discovered the adjacent hills over- 
 spread with snow. The high lands which arise from the plain around, 
 attract constant thunder-storms ; the elevation, indeed, of the whole 
 region from the base of the sea is itself very considerable, and is suffi- 
 cient to account for the cold. 
 
 On the 17th we visited the Governor. He treated us with the usual 
 civilities of the occasion in Turkey, pipes, coffees, sweatmeats and 
 sherbet, for which we paid dearly by the numerous backshishes or vails 
 that are given in such circumstances. Em in Aga, who then filled the 
 station and was Musselim of the town, was also Gumruckchee or Col- 
 lector of the Customs, an office which in Persia is confined to very infe- 
 rior persons, and which therefore drew upon the Commandant of Arz- 
 roum, who unluckily bore it, the laughter and contempt of the Persians. 
 Yet when he invited us all to dinner, they were not the less anxious 
 to make their best appearance before him. Throughout the day, the 
 Persian Envoy was occupied with the arrangement of his clothes ; he 
 consulted every one of his servants on the suit which might become 
 him best, and at length fixed on a fine gold-brocade coat. 
 
 On the 20th we went accordingly to the entertainment. After 
 smoking and drinking coffee, the Aga called for dinner. Water for 
 the preliminary ablution was first brought, when I observed that the 
 Turks washed both their hands, and the Persians the right only. The 
 servants who brought the basin and ewer were attended by two others : 
 one who spread a towel on the knees, and another who was ready to 
 take it away, and replace it by a second for the hands. After this an 
 octagonal stool two feet and a half high was placed in a corner of the 
 sopha, on which was put a large round pewter tray carved all over in 
 
 T T 2 
 
324 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 various fashions. On this were placed piles of bread all around, onions, 
 endive, and basins of yaourt, milk, and plates of cheese, with two 
 wooden spoons at intervals for the guests. When all was ready our 
 host said, " booyouroun" or " you are served," and we approached the 
 table. When seated each guest was attended by a page, who threw a large 
 napkin with gold-embroidered borders over each shoulder, and arranged 
 another on our knees ; an apparatus not unlike that of the preliminary 
 service of shaving. A small cloth was placed in the centre of 
 the tray, on which stood the dish. First, in a glass vase, came 
 a species of sweet soup which was not unpalatable; then a lamb roasted, 
 stuffed with rice and almonds; then stewed pears, then a stew of 
 mutton, then sweet jelly ; in short, there was a succession of at least 
 one hundred dishes, consisting generally of an intermediate sweet ar- 
 ticle between the meats, besides pastry to each. The master of the 
 entertainment said, " Booyouroun," when it was brought in, and 
 " Calder" or " take away," when we had eat two or three mouthfuls, 
 and scarce any other words but these two were heard during the whole 
 feast. Servants attended behind each guest, with a vase of lemonade 
 or sherbet. The dishes were not, in general, badly cooked, although 
 much coarser than those of Persia. The whole was closed by an im- 
 mense pillau. The principal dishes were the yaknS, which resembles 
 our Irish stew ; the dohnah, meat balls enclosed in vine leaves ; the 
 kabob, which is roast meat; the chorbah, or soup; the baklavah, a cake 
 of honey, paste, and other sweet ingredients; the lokmah, a light paste 
 puff; and the pillau, which is nothing but rice intermixed now and then 
 with plums, almonds, and always well peppered and spiced. When 
 all was over we washed our hands with soap and hot water, smoked, 
 drank coffee, and went away, and were dunned as usual for backshishes 
 on departing. 
 
 A strange character joined us at Arz-roum ; he was a native of Bosnia, 
 and took the opportunity of our escort to reach Constantinople. He 
 seemed to fear the wild inhabitants of the country through which we 
 
^M 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 325 
 
 had to pass, and wore accordingly a coat of mail under his clothes, and 
 a burnished helmet on his head, and was armed with two heavy rifle 
 guns, a pair of pistols, a long kunjur, and a sword, besides a variety 
 of powder flasks, &c. which, altogether, made him weigh thirty 
 
 stone. 
 
 On the 21st we left Arz-roum, and proceeded across the plain to 
 Ilija, a distance of five miles only, on a bearing of N. 80 West. The 
 plain is covered with villages : I counted thirty on one part, and the 
 cultivation is proportioned to the population. The season was advanc- 
 ing: in some places the corn was a foot from the ground, and there was 
 besides much fine pasture. 
 
 Close to the village we crossed a bridge over a nice stream, there 
 called the Kara Sou, which flows in this quarter from E. to W. and 
 according to the information which I procured on this spot, finally flows 
 into the Euphrates. On comparing, however, my authorities and 
 my observations, I suspect that it is itself larger than its confluent 
 stream, and deserves therefore to be considered as the primary 
 river. Its sources are in the mountains at Suzdan, about nine miles 
 from Arz-roum; and it meets another river at Serchembeh. The sources 
 of the Tigris are said to be at a village called Nehel, near Gever, 
 a place tenfursungs from Oroumi. 
 
 At Iljja are warm springs, two of which are enclosed within walls, 
 for the separate use of men and women. Large parties had collected 
 from Arz-roum to bathe here, and had pitched their tents among the 
 rocks to pass the night. During the night an alarm was given in the 
 village, that a number of Dtthis (who have been called the " Enfans per- 
 " dm" of the Turkish army,) had taken up their quarters among us, and 
 that every one must in consequence look to his own property. Perhaps 
 there were not two hundred of these desperadoes, yet they had given more 
 trouble to the Government of Arz-roum than an army of ten thousand 
 men could excite in any European country. They commit with impu- 
 nity every act of cruelty and extortion ; no one dares to reprimand or 
 to punish them ; and a few days before our rencounter with them, they 
 
526 
 
 AUZ-ROUM TO AMASIA, 
 
 chose to be dissatisfied with the conduct of the Governor of Arz-roum f 
 and informed him that they intended to desert. To pacify them, there- 
 fore, he was obliged to send them loads of victuals. We passed the 
 night> however, without disturbance, and fared well indeed, by the 
 kindness of the Armenians of the village. From this place Southward 
 to Bin Gieul* the sources of the Araxes is five sahat (hours) Turkish. 
 The villages nearest our road were Gez, Belour, Arouni. 
 
 22d. Our route to Purtun bore W. on a distance of twenty miles. 
 From Ilija to the right and left, the country was still as on the preced- 
 ing day, studded with villages, and still richly cultivated. But it is 
 almost destitute of timber; a few bushes and small trees only are 
 sprinkled here and there over the hills ; and the great number of Ara- 
 bahs which we met loaded with wood had been all brought from a dis- 
 tance. About six miles on the right is the village of Alaga, and on 
 the left Arranli. Having proceeded five miles from our last stage we 
 stopped at Jennis, a very pretty spot, where the Armenians brought us a 
 breakfast of eggs, fritters, yaourt (curdled milk), and kymack (clouted 
 cream). On leaving Jennis, the village Nardiran lies at the declivity of 
 the hill. We quitted here the road to the right, which would have car- 
 ried us to Ak CalSh, the regular Menzil KhonSh, and took a bye-path, 
 because a pass in the mountains along the direct line was possessed by 
 a party of Courdistan freebooters. We reached Purtun. about four miles S. 
 from AkCaleh, and sent thither for the horses (fifteen in number,) which 
 were necessary to convey us forwards. Our resting place was a small 
 village in the bosom of the mountains, near a pretty stream which fell 
 in a cascade (almost under the roots of three picturesque trees in the 
 middle of the water), and turned a mill below. At about twelve o'clock 
 the clouds arose from the S. E. and brought thunder, hail, and rain; a 
 circumstance which I had remarked almost every day at the same hour 
 
 * See before p. 317. The same name seems to be applied to the sources of the Euphrates 
 and of the Araxes; which both rise on opposite directions from the same mountains. 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 327 
 
 since our arrival at Arz-roum. The weather then cleared up towards 
 the close of the evening, and a fine morning with an almost cloudless 
 sky opened the following day. 
 
 On the 23d, we left Purtiin ; and retraced the route of the pre- 
 ceding day for two miles and a half, when we took a general Westerly 
 direction for twenty-four miles. Our road was carried through a long 
 chain of mountains, in a line of easy access, though the surface was 
 rendered difficult by the mud which the rains had made. The whole 
 soil was an admirably rich earth, producing the greatest luxuriance of 
 grass, wild herbs, and flowers. Here and there the country begun to 
 be wooded ; and to be intersected by a great profusion of streams ; 
 and in one particular view (about two miles from our stage) displayed 
 the most romantic scenery with fine wild precipices washed by the 
 waters below, and shaded by shrubs and pine trees. The neighbouring 
 district however, in consequence of the depredations of the Delhis, and 
 the recent incursions of the Courds, was entirely unpeopled ; and 
 we learnt that the village of Mama Khatoun, at which we intended 
 to take up our quarters for the night, was in the same manner 
 deserted. 
 
 From the eminence above we enjoyed a beautiful prospect ; a river, 
 swoln by the rains and melted snows, poured from the mountains on 
 the S. E. and meandered at the foot of two stupendous rocks; and 
 the large buildings from which the place derived its name, were 
 below us. They are close to the village, and consist of a caravanserai, 
 a mosque, a bath, and a tomb, all constructed with a fine white free 
 stone, and finished in a manner worthy of the best ages. The caravan- 
 serai, in the usual shape of such buildings, is a hollow square, with a 
 gate to the East. Round the court are built small rooms, all arched 
 in the most solid and magnificent style. There are also two vaulted 
 chambers, each fifty yards long by forty broad, for the accommodation 
 of the cattle of travellers. In the middle of the square is an arched 
 chamber, erected probably as a cool retreat in summer. Though 
 many parts of the building are falling into ruin, the caravanserai may 
 
328 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 be considered generally in very good preservation. The mosque is 
 situated to the right. It is entered by a small court yard, from which 
 a vaulted Peris tyle leads under the dome, into the principal chamber, 
 where is a stone pulpit. Though the dome is covered with weeds, 
 and though of the single minaret the upper part has fallen, the main 
 structure is still entire; and its fine materials, and its admirable 
 masonry, are very strikingly and advantageously opposed to the more 
 modern works of the country. Close to the caravanserai is the bath, 
 and on the other side the remains of a building ; the use of which I 
 could not ascertain. Nearly facing the caravanserai, is a kind of 
 small round temple, probably a tomb, enclosed by a circular wall, 
 which is entered by a gate way of Saracenic architecture. On the 
 exterior of the arch is an inscription in Cujic. The small building 
 inside is covered by a shelving roof, of the same construction as 
 many of the buildings at Arz-roam. The interior is arched, and 
 carved in a variety of ornaments, and under it is a subterraneous 
 chamber. The court is full of fragments, which may perhaps suggest 
 the supposition, that the whole was originally covered. Around are 
 many tomb-stones, inscribed with Cujic characters. 
 
 The popular story of the erection of those different buildings is as 
 
 follows : a wealthy Turk fell in love with an Armenian woman of this 
 
 village, but as she doubted the extent of his affections, she required as 
 
 a proof before she yielded her consent to marry him, that he should 
 
 build a caravanserai, mosque, &c. at the place of her birth. The Turk 
 
 immediately accepted the conditions ; and, proving that his love was 
 
 equal to his wealth, raised these structures, and called them by her 
 
 name, Mama Khatoun. The people add, that a treasure is concealed 
 
 in a part of the caravanserai ; which, according to an inscription, is 
 
 destined for the reconstruction of the whole, after the decay of the 
 
 present buildings. In one of the corners of the caravanserai we luckily 
 
 found a stray calf, of which we took possession, and of which the 
 
 Persians, in disregard of their scruples and distaste of ox-flesh, eat with 
 
 great appetite. 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 329 
 
 At noon we had the usual thunder storm. The surface of the 
 mountain is hard, and apparently contains much mineral matter. A 
 very elevated chain covered with snow extends before the village; the 
 highest part bearing W. and taking a N. direction. The Kara Sou is 
 no longer known by that name at Mania Khatoun, though by the 
 description of the country, we recognized it under that of Frat. The 
 water at this place has no distinct designation, but is called simply, 
 the river of Mama Khatoun. 
 
 On the 24th we proceeded to Kara Colagh, a distance called twelve 
 hours, which we performed in ten, and which in road measure may 
 be reckoned at thirty-two miles. We travelled for eight hours on a 
 bearing of W. and for the remainder of the stage turned to the N. 
 When we had advanced about six miles and a half, we came to the 
 river, which in its earlier progress we had passed as the Kara Sou, 
 but which here, as we suspected at Mama Khatoun, was known as the 
 Frat, and was said to flow finally near Maaden Kebban, into that 
 which rises at Diadin. We crossed it over a very good bridge of 
 eight arches, constructed altogether of the same materials, and in the 
 same style as the buildings at Mama Khatoun. At the distance scarcely 
 of a stone's throw is the confluence of the Frat, and that river which 
 rlows near Mama Khatoun ; their united waters form a considerable 
 stream, following the direction N. to S. 40 W. Near the bridge is the 
 village of Manastour. We traced upwards to the N. for two hours, 
 the river which I conceive to be the original parent of the Euphr-ates, 
 enjoying at every turn new and beautiful pictures of cultivation, and 
 woodland. 
 
 At the distance of about twenty miles we came to a large but com- 
 pletely deserted village, called Moss. Its inhabitants had fled the 
 day before to their mountains, from the depredation of the Courds. 
 Near it are very ancient tombs, some placed evidently over the bodies 
 of Christians, for among the ornaments on some of the stones is carved 
 the cross. One has an Armenian inscription. Here and there are 
 collections of very large stones, rudely piled one over the other. On 
 
 u u 
 
 
330 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 the other side of the stream is Pekesidge, a town with a castle on a 
 conical hill. This is on the high road leading from A k CaUh to Con- 
 stantinople, through Shoghoun DerSh, the pass occupied by the Courds. 
 After this is the village of Ak Doghan, and then that of Kismisore, but 
 both deserted. The cultivation is however very plentiful. In our 
 line to the W. we crossed a branch of the river, where the water was 
 up to the horses" bellies. 
 
 Kara Colagh is a large village, and the Menzil Khonih is here. The 
 surrounding mountains still bear an appearance of mineral. The clouds 
 gathered at the usual hour, but in a much smaller quantity than on 
 the preceding days. There was round the road a great profusion of 
 wild herbs, and amongst others asparagus. 
 
 25th. On the next morning we had a great dispute at the Menzil 
 Khonth. The master peremptorily required that we should pay for the 
 horses with which he furnished us. In vain did the Mirza persist that 
 he was an Elchee, an Embassador ; our host swore that he cared neither 
 for the Shah of Persia, nor for his own Sultan, and that he must have 
 our money before we should take his beasts. We agreed at last to give 
 twenty-five piastres for the hire of twenty horses. 
 
 Our road first took a N. direction among uncultivated mountains, 
 where I am told that the snow is frequently so deep in winter as to im- 
 pede the passage of travellers. It then varied W. and N. and N. and 
 W. frequently; but on a general bearing, I think that we averaged 
 N. 60 W. to Cliiflik, a distance called twelve hours, and which we per- 
 formed exactly in that time, on a reckoning of forty miles. In winding 
 through the mountains, we came to parts beautifully wooded with fir, 
 pines, and walnut-trees; and forming, particularly on a long descent, 
 the most picturesque forest scenery that can be imagined. At the sum- 
 mit of the mountains we had a continual rain for two hours, accompa- 
 nied with thunder. When we reached the close of the descent, we 
 discovered on our left hand the village of Sadac, situated about two 
 miles from the road on the declivity of the hills, with a surrounding 
 territory admirably fertile in corn, and well watered. From this place 
 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 331 
 
 to Chifiik is fifteen miles : the road leading through one of the most 
 beautiful and happy looking vallies that I ever saw. A stream, swoln 
 when we saw it by the rains, runs through it, and on each side spreads a 
 more abundant vegetation. 
 
 On quitting the valley we came on the plain in which Chifiik lies, so 
 well cultivated that it quite transported me into some of the best parts 
 of England. The peasants were ploughing the ground, while immense 
 flocks of sheep, goats, and oxen were spread over the whole country. 
 The fields were parted off by hedges and ditches; the road was well 
 denned ; and pretty villages rose here and there, intermixed with the 
 most luxuriant verdure. Spring was here in its bloom, and the whole 
 plain was a little Eden. 
 
 At about six hours from Kara Colagh, the road leads N. to the dis- 
 trict of Bybourg or Baibort, whilst our road led us W. 
 
 The village of Chifiick is interspersed with poplars and willows; the 
 out-houses for cattle were built of rafters laid horizontally, and covered 
 with a roof of earth. A Musselim resides here under the government 
 of Arz-roum. 
 
 26th. From Chifiik we went to Caraja, distant twenty miles (six 
 hours) on a bearing of W. We continued through the plain, which we 
 had entered on the preceding day ; and found it to its close as beauti- 
 ful as in its commencement. The stream which we had admired in the 
 valley of Sadac, issues into the plain and follows the road. We crossed 
 it over a wooden bridge. It supplies the inhabitants of the neighbour- 
 hood plentifully with fish, of which indeed we had a specimen in some 
 excellent trout, served up to us for breakfast. 
 
 We passed the village of Ger, and on the Eastward of the plain we 
 saw the village of Kizziljay. The whole country around was enlivened 
 by people employed in the works of agriculture. On entering the hills 
 we found their declivities on all sides beautifully wooded with firs, pine, 
 oak bushes, and a variety of thorns, with every shrub common to a 
 Northern climate. All the mountains which we had passed were of 
 easy access, and of no difficult ascent or descent. About twelve miles 
 
 u u 2 
 
332 
 
 AIlZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 from Chiflik there is in ruins, a small circular building of stone, which 
 is probably a Turkish tomb. 
 
 We rested for the night at Caraja, though the proper Menzil Khoneh 
 is three hours distance, at a place called Sheyran, which gives name to 
 a district, or MahalS, containing this and between thirty and forty 
 other villages. Our horses were collected from the individual villagers ; 
 for the regular establishments were broken up about a month before 
 our arrival, by the disturbances in the country. From Caraja to 
 Gumuck Khoneh (a large town) is twelve hours, and thence to Trebisond 
 ten hours, on a general bearing throughout the whole distance of N. 
 Arsinghan is a considerable town, twenty-four hours S. from Caraja. 
 The corn fields in all this region are fenced off with rails, made of the 
 trunks of pine trees ; and here and there the boundaries of each man's 
 territory are marked by large stones ; a greater evidence of property, 
 and consequently of prosperity, than we had seen any where. On our 
 road to-day we saw a great number of juniper bushes with very fine 
 berries upon them. 
 
 In our passage through the woods we met three Tatars going in 
 great haste to Arz-roum, bearing to Em in Aga the news of his having 
 been created a Pacha. They told us that they had then been seven 
 days from Constantinople. Their errand is called carrying the Mudjdeh, 
 which is merely a verbal notification of the appointment, and which 
 very frequently proves false ; for the Tatar who is the bearer of it 
 generally gets it from the Capi Kiayah or Hommes d Affaires of the 
 great man in the province, and then takes the chance of the news 
 proving false afterwards. As soon as the Tatar arrives, he is carried 
 immediately into the presence of the person whose new dignity he 
 announces, and simply informs him of his promotion. If the news 
 which he brings prove correct, he receives perhaps one thousand 
 piastres, and the succeeding Tatars (for there are frequently twenty 
 who set off on similar expeditions) get sums in proportion to their 
 early or tardy arrival. The person indeed who on these occasions 
 secures the highest prize, is generally he who brings the pelisse of 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 333 
 
 office, which is the common mode of investiture in Turkey. On 
 the present occasion we were told by the Tatars that the pelisse was 
 actually on the road. 
 
 The Aga or Governor of Caraja was a Turk of a very fierce appear- 
 ance, but of a behaviour more agreeable than his looks. He accom- 
 modated us with the upper part of his own house, an open room 
 looking over a beautiful plain, and in the evening treated us with a 
 dinner. The greatest and best ingredient of the entertainment was a 
 large lamb roasted whole; round this were seated twelve persons, 
 mostly the farmers of the place, among whom however I could dis- 
 tinguish the Imaum, or parish priest, and the Hodja or schoolmaster. 
 All these gentlemen arrived with very good appetites to the feast; 
 for no sooner were they seated and the lamb placed before them, than 
 every one had his right hand in the dish at once, tearing off as large 
 pieces from the animal, as his strength and dexterity would admit. 
 This species of attack did not finish, until there remained nothing but 
 the bare bones of the lamb ; when every man very deliberately retired 
 to smoke his pipe in a corner of the sofa, and to drink a cup of coffee, 
 that was then handed round to each of the guests. Although such a 
 meal may be repugnant to the delicacy of those, who have been ac- 
 customed to a civilized mode of eating, yet there was a species of wild 
 and generous hospitality in the manners of these people, that I could 
 not help admiring ; and a few ingredients of which would add ex- 
 tremely to the delights of a modern table. 
 
 27th. We proceeded from Caraja, and halted at the distance of 
 twenty miles, on a bearing of N. 60 W. Our station was on the 
 banks of a stream in a beautiful valley, and we reached it through a 
 country, which (almost above that of the preceding march) was finely 
 wooded, and in the intervals among the mountains richly cultivated. 
 Among the forests the pines were of an uncommon size. Whilst we 
 were eating our dinner under a tree, a heavy storm of thunder and 
 lightning and rain, from the Westward, came over us. In this situa- 
 tion we were joined by a Persian who was coming post from Constan- 
 
334 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 tinople. He was of the suite of Asker Khan, the Persian Embassador 
 at Paris, and unburthened himself of a volume of news to us. lie 
 soon convinced me that he had gained some knowledge in France bv 
 saying, " Les dames de Paris sont bien jolies" The storm continued 
 with little intermission till near midnight. Some sought shelter among 
 the rocks; others covered themselves with carpets, horse cloths, or 
 any thing which they could seize for the purpose, whilst others, and I 
 among the rest, sought refuge in a neighbouring water-mill, half in 
 ruins, where we made a large fire and defended ourselves as well as we 
 could from the pelting of the storm. I passed the night in the trough 
 of the mill. 
 
 28th. We again continued our route on a general bearing of W. to 
 Carahissar, a distance called eight hours, but which we performed 
 even in ten hours with difficulty, from the extreme debility of our 
 cattle. The road measurement may be thirty miles. The whole 
 country, through which we passed, presented the luxuries of a garden, 
 with the grandeur of a forest. Flowers of all hues embellished the 
 slopes of the rich pasturage, and embalmed the air with their aromatic 
 odours. I never saw spring so luxuriant, so exuberant, as it was in 
 these regions. At the bottom of every valley invariably runs a stream, 
 the progress of which is marked by the trees and by the fertility which 
 borders it, and which accompanies it in all its windings. The soil is 
 of a fine red earth ; and when occasionally turned up by the plough, 
 breaks the monotony of the universal verdure that now covers the 
 country, and contrasts admirably with the splendid brilliancy of its 
 tints. The corn on t]ie summit of the mountain was about a foot 
 high, but in the valley was much more advanced. The great cultiva- 
 tion consists in barley, besides many fields of rye, the latter indeed in 
 many places grows wild, and indiscriminately with other plants. 
 Wheat does not appear to be one of the necessaries of the inhabitants, 
 for almost all the bread which we ate was made of barley. Great 
 numbers of pear-trees border the road, with pines of a form most 
 picturesque, and presented often in the most striking views. The 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 335 
 
 pencils of an hundred artists would not accomplish in as many years 
 the task of delineating all the landscapes which this country affords. 
 The inhabitants are as well adapted for the painter as their country, 
 and would add a new interest to the charms of the picture. 
 
 On reaching the eminence of Carahmar a splendid panorama opens. 
 The various masses that erect themselves in an infinity of curious forms 
 suggest forcibly the wild convulsion of nature which had thrown them 
 in their present disorder. To the North is a large mass of mountain 
 of a rude outline, and a tint which indicates the mineral below : this 
 joins a stupendous chain of rock which, taking a turn to the Westward, 
 is terminated by the great, isolated height of Carahhsar. On the ex- 
 treme summit of this is the castle, a small fort rendered tenable by its 
 position. There are houses also on the top to which a ziz-zag road 
 leads. The remainder of the surface is also inlaid with Avails, which, 
 as seen from below, appear more ancient than the main building. The 
 town of CaraTiissar is spread about on the declivity. At the distance 
 of about two miles from the place, and at the bottom of the valley, 
 formed by the steeps of the great mountains, flows a torrent from the 
 N. E. : the waters of which foam through a bed of rocks and loose 
 stones, and spread through the cultivation around Carahissar. We 
 passed on a bridge of one arch : the bases of the arch are of stone 
 built on two projecting rocks, and the superstructure is of wood. Im- 
 mediately after passing the bridge is a fountain, and near it a garden, 
 from which we got some of the finest cherries that I ever eat. From 
 this spot the rock of Carah'mar was singularly striking. 
 
 Proceeding further, we entered the great tract of cultivation and gar- 
 dens, more immediately surrounding the town, and certainly constituting 
 one of the finest spots which I can recollect in Turkey, or indeed in any 
 other country. Plane trees, poplars, fruit trees of every denomination 
 in the thickest profusion, intermixed with corn fields, and enlivened by 
 the murmuring of a thousand streams, formed the fore-ground of the 
 view. We came to a second torrent which flows through the gardens 
 with great precipitation and noise, and adds its waters to the first. 
 
336 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 The heat was that of summer ; the corn had lost its green tints, and was 
 ripening into yellow. Such was the difference of our elevation since 
 the preceding day : our descent to Carahissar indeed had been gradual 
 for nearly four hours. 
 
 The houses are terraced, and are built of all materials, mud, bricks, 
 stone, and wood. There is a custom-house : the town is administered 
 by a Musselim under the jurisdiction of Arz-roum. The place has two 
 mosques, and two baths : one of the former is a good structure with a 
 dome covered with lead. In the vicinity are many villages : among 
 others to the South, are Gezliche, YaichS, Sayit and Soucher. 
 
 Scarcely a fortnight before our arrival the town and the adjacent 
 country had been in a state of great disturbance ; a party of Janizaries 
 inimical to Jussuf Pacha (now (1809) the Grand Vizir, who had 
 lately governed the district) set fire to a large house which he had built 
 at Carahissar, and the whole, with an immense property which it con- 
 tained, was totally consumed. 
 
 We were delayed some time, at the moment of our departure, by a 
 fierce dispute that arose between the Persians and the Turk and his 
 family at whose house we had lodged. One of the Persian servants 
 had lost his shalwars or riding breeches, and, in his anxiety to find 
 them, taxed the Turk with having stolen them. The Turk retorted 
 with warmth ; and the contention was already going on at a high rate, 
 when the Embassador arrived, brandishing the breeches in the air, and 
 joining in the attack on the Turk. It seems that the Embassador, who 
 had before suspected the integrity of our host, immediately on hearing 
 the affray, searched in the suspicious parts of our chamber, and in a 
 bye-corner found (wrapped up in a slip of hay) the unlucky object of 
 dispute. The confusion of the Turk, who, by his dress and exterior 
 possessions, was passing for a man of respectability in the town, may 
 be better imagined than described. 
 
 We at length left Carahissar, and travelled eighteen miles W. on a 
 mountainous and stony road. About three miles from our last station 
 we saw the road to Diarbekir and Bagdad, bearing S. 25 W. We con- 
 
AUZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 33T 
 
 iinued our own course to the W. and came to the banks of a large 
 stream called (like the earlier part of the Euphrates) the Kara Sou, 
 and flowing from E. to W. in a channel between two chains of rocks. 
 In its subsequent progress, like the Euphrates also, it assumes a new 
 name ; and at Niksar is called the Kelki Irmak*. I am told that it 
 takes its rise near the mines, fifteen days journey from the point where 
 we saw it, and that it finally falls into the Black Sea. We encamped 
 on the banks, having followed the windings of the river through the 
 mountains, on a bad road, now and then rendered dangerous by 
 narrow and steep passes. Our halt was on the extremity of the range, 
 with a village to our right ; on the eminence on the opposite side of 
 the water, appeared a ruin of which no one could give me any better 
 account, than that it was a church built by the Giaours or infidels. 
 I could observe a portico with a Roman arch ; and, not being able to 
 cross the stream and take a nearer view, I was obliged to be contented 
 with this scanty information. About noon a strong wind arose from 
 the S. W. bringing together an immense collection of thick clouds ; 
 which at the close of the evening fell in heavy torrents of rain. Here 
 again we were exposed to the storm for the night, without any other 
 shelter than that which the foliage of two trees, and the partial covering 
 of a shelving rock might yield. 
 
 1st. July. We proceeded W. again about eighteen miles, and as on 
 the preceding day, stopped by the banks of the river, which continued 
 to wind at the foot of two ranges of mountains. On the right chain 
 was the line of our route, in parts singularly dangerous : in one pass 
 the soil crumbled under our feet as we advanced, and fell a horrid 
 depth into the precipice over the river below. Nor indeed, if a little 
 more rain had fallen, would the road have been practicable at any 
 hazard. About eight miles from Kuley Hissar (on the left of our 
 course, and on the other side of the river) is a small structure built 
 
 * It is the ancient Li/cus. 
 X X 
 
338 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 over a hot spring. In the little plains and vallies that now and then 
 intervened we met with much vegetation. The acacia was in great 
 plenty ; with plants of every hue. At the end of the stage we saw 
 the castle of Kuley Hissar, situated on the pinnacle of a very high part 
 of the mountains. We ascended a very steep and intricate road, and 
 from the summit saw in the deep valley extended at our feet, the 
 beautiful village of Kuley Hissar. It consists of houses unconnected 
 with one another, and scattered in a wood of every description, 
 (particularly of fruit-rtrees;) the refreshing tints of which were ad- 
 mirably contrasted with the arid surfaces of the surrounding heights. 
 A little art would render the scene perfect. Streams of running water 
 naunaaured in every part of this plantation ; and an exhilarating breeze 
 kept up a delightful temperature in the air. The situation however, 
 girded close by high land on every side, was in itself much warmer than 
 Carafmsar, or any part of our preceding route. Here indeed we found 
 the season for cherries expired ; and we got only the tishna (sour cherry) 
 and the white mulberry. The corn was generally approaching to a 
 state fit for the sickle: and in some warmer exposures had already 
 been cut. 
 
 The fort at the summit was some years ago destroyed by Jussup 
 Pacha, (the present Grand Vizier, 1809) who found that the inhabit- 
 ants of the neighbouring region were inclined to be turbulent and 
 independent ; a disposition which, I understand, is so little subdued, 
 that they are now rebuilding their strong hold. To the port of Janik 
 on the Black Sea, the distance from Kuley Hissar is not more than 
 twelve hours. 
 
 2d. July. We were obliged to hire our horses from this stage for- 
 wards at four piastres each. The master- of the Menzil KhonSh assigned 
 as a reason, that this village paid more than others to the Miri, and 
 was consequently relieved from the burthen of any stated establishment, 
 and was not required to furnish travellers at the common rate. Not- 
 withstanding therefore all our assertions that we were on the business 
 
AftZ-ROUM TO AMASIA, 
 
 33Q 
 
 of government; notwithstanding our hoyour&ulm OT public orders, 
 (and others more immediately from the Muteelitn of Carahissar, in 
 whose jurisdiction the place is) we were obliged to comply. Yet the 
 horses for which we had paid so largely and unusually were too bad to 
 carry us further than twelve miles ; we were obliged therefore to un- 
 load the baggage, and rest them on a fine pasturage in an open part of 
 the mountains. Our course had been N. 50 W. During our ride 
 we traversed forests of pine trees, (intermixed with hazels, oak-bushes, 
 and a variety of other plants) here and there forming most beau* 
 tiful pictures. In some places the wood had been burnt down j and 
 the countrymen were ploughing the land between the old trunks, 
 where probably they would sow rye. The people here cut their trees 
 about five feet from the ground, burning them a little, and then apply* 
 ing the hatchet. 
 
 3d. We had not however long taken possession of Our station, and 
 our cattle had not long indulged on the fat pasture that extended itself 
 around, before a party of armed Turks, some on horseback and some 
 on foot, came to us and desired us to withdraw our horses from the 
 grass, for it was the property of their village. This startled the Per* 
 sians, who swore that the grass was common property, for that it was the 
 gift of God, and that their horses had as much right to feed upon it as 
 any other : the Turks, however, soon made them understand, that the 
 usages of their several countries differed in this respect : One of them 
 at the same time remarking, * You might as truly say, that corn, goats, 
 *• cows, and sheep are common property, for they are all, as Well as 
 " grass, the gifts of God." The peasants here indeed take much 
 pains with their grass, which they cut and dry into hay, and store up for 
 the winter: whereas in Persia, grass is unappropriated; and even barley 
 is open to the King's people; for we used to turn our horses into the 
 barley fields, where, in the King's name and right, they devoured all 
 around, while the poor cultivator did not dare to say a word to us\ We 
 were no longer in Persia, and therefore obeyed the summons ; and de- 
 parted an hour after sunset to seek a fresh pasturage. 
 
 x x 2 
 
340 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 We rode for five hours through thick woods of pine trees beautifully 
 enlightened by the moon, which rose an hour after we had mounted. 
 We again stopped, and in a charming valley fed our cattle till morning 
 dawned; whea we proceeded, and in four hours reached the village of 
 Isker Sou. From the general direction of our road, we averaged proba- 
 bly about N. 70 W. on a distance which might be twenty-seven miles. 
 Three hours before we reached Isker Sou is the large village of Kizzil 
 Javeran, high on the mountain on the left; and afterwards on both sides 
 a number of tillages, the small wooden houses of which are scattered 
 unconnected^ in various directions on the declivities and summits of 
 the hills. The people build their houses entirely of wood, laying trunks 
 of the pine trees horizontally one over another, and fitting their extre- 
 mities at the angles by notches and holes. About five miles from Isker 
 Sou, on the left of the road, is a rock completely insulated among green 
 fields. The substance is a hard grey granite, in which is excavated, 
 certainly with great labour, a chamber nine feet square, with a seat and 
 two recesses. On the left of the inside on entering is a figure, which, 
 from its resemblance to a Cross, induced me to suppose that the spot, 
 in which it appeared, had been the retreat of some of the primitive 
 Christians. 
 
 Our Bosniai Quixote had been missing since the preceding evening; 
 and we felt a general apprehension that he had fallen a prey to the 
 Turks, who warned us from their pasture. He was late in preparing to 
 follow us, was encumbered with two horses, and with trappings so nu- 
 merous, that notwithstanding his warlike appearance he would have 
 presented an easy conquest to any attack ; above all, he was known to 
 carry much gold. But his life was in fact uninjured, and he rejoined 
 us in a subsequent part of our route. The poor creature was now and 
 then wont to sing some of his patriotic songs, which are of a peculiarly 
 doleful and melancholy harmony ; and every time he begun his lay it 
 happened that rain fell soon after. I unluckily told the Persians, who 
 were too credulous and superstitious not to believe me, that the singing 
 of the people of Bosnia invariably draws down rain : so that the poor 
 
 
 I 
 
 m m 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 341 
 
 fellow's strains, whenever he attempted to renew them, were afterwards 
 stopped by the joint force of all his comrades. 
 
 The people of Isker Sou informed me, that for six months of the 
 year the snow lies on the ground. The night indeed which we passed 
 in their village was so sensibly cold that all our warmest clothes were 
 brought into use, before we could get ourselves tolerably comfortable. 
 In a general view of our route, I should think that we had been rising 
 for some time. The country was in a state of internal warfare, which 
 however did not interfere with the passage of strangers. In the village 
 there was then from Janik one of Jusuff Pacha's Tuffenchee Bashees, 
 or captains, who with fifty followers was feeding at the expence of the 
 peasantry. Chappan Oglu was the principal object of terror in the 
 neighbourhood; his troops had lately fired the Bazar of Niksar, 
 which is under the jurisdiction of Haznadar Oglu, Governor of 
 Janik. 
 
 4th. of July. From Isker Sou we went to Niksar. We were seven 
 hours on the road on a bearing of West, which, from the unequal sur- 
 face of the country, may be reckoned at twenty-one miles. About one 
 mile and a half from Isker Sou we came to a wooden bridge over a 
 small stream, which is the termination of the Government of Arz-roum; 
 when therefore a Pacha is appointed, the ceremony of sacrificing is per- 
 formed at this spot. After this we passed several villages on all sides, 
 but totally abandoned by their inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the 
 different countries against the depredations of the Delhis, and the occa- 
 sional visits of the soldiers of Chappan Oglu. There is a village im- 
 mediately at the pass (where we entered the mountains) ; and here com- 
 menced a series of mountain scenery, of the wildest and most roman- 
 tic character. No description is adequate to paint the brill iancy and 
 luxuriance of vegetation, and the picturesque forms of this region; 
 and few imaginations are sufficiently fertile to supply the idea of a 
 spring in these mountains. Trees of every denomination grow here in 
 the wildest profusion, whilst their roots are embalmed by the odour of 
 
342 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 myriads of flowers. The oak here is but an indifferent tree ; but there 
 are walnut and plane-trees, pines and firs of a fine growth. Yet lovely 
 as the spring was here, the cold on the mountains is said to be intense 
 in winter ; and even where we crossed the highest part of the range we 
 were enveloped some time in clouds, which came from the North, and 
 which now and then broke in frequent and sharp showers. 
 
 The descent to Niksar continues for three hours, and in some places 
 is rapid. The road winds through the thickest shrubbery, and at its 
 extremity is a collection of lofty plane-trees, which form a fine shade to 
 recruit the traveller after the tedious length of the hills. About an 
 hour before we reached Niksar we discovered the town, situated in a 
 valley, and, in the back-ground, a plain watered by the Kelki Irmak, 
 the stream which we had followed under another name near Cara- 
 hissar, and which empties itself into the river of Amasia, and thus is 
 carried into the Black Sea. The approaches to Niksar exceeded, if 
 possible, in beauty and rich vegetation those to Carahissar. The corn 
 here again was quite ripe, and we got cherries and mulberries. 
 
 Niksa?* is a long town crowned by a ruined fort of considerable extent ; 
 the walls and towers appear works of the Saracenic age, and at a dist- 
 ance still constitute a picturesque object; though they might now afford 
 but a sorry and impotent defence. A stream from the hills rushes 
 through the valley, and turns the wheels of many mills for cutting the 
 pines into planks. The houses here are no longer terraced; their roofs 
 are mostly of wood, shelving and covered with tiles. 
 
 * The Turks in their way have retained so many ancient names, that Neoccesarea may be 
 easily recognised under the name of Niksar. — D'An ville, Geogr. Anc. torn. ii. p. 34. It is 
 interesting as the city and biahoprick of St. Gregory Thaumaturgus ; who found there 
 but seventeen Christians, and left there but seventeen Pagans. He resolved to build a 
 church in his city : — " Ce qui n'estoit pas extraordinaire en ce temps la, et on avoit toute 
 " liberie d'en bast ir sous Philippe > qui commenca a regner en 241. Mais celle ci est la 
 u premiere doni Phistoire nous donne une connaissance certaine et expressed — Tille>ignt ? 
 Memoires Eccles : de VI. Premiers Siecles, Vol. III. p. 329-30. 
 
 
 m 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 343 
 
 5th. From Niksar to Tocat is nine hours, on a bearing of S. 60 W. 
 a distance winch I place at thirty miles. On quitting the town the road 
 continues through a variety of fine landscapes, and then comes to the 
 banks of the Kelki Irmak, which here flows from S. to N. After much 
 delay, and an ineffectual attempt to ford, we passed this river in a boat, 
 which could receive at once only a few of our party, and a small 
 portion of our equipage, and which was still more unequal to the 
 numbers of the peasantry crowding into it, anxious to cross the water, 
 with hoes, sickles and spades to their daily labour on the opposite side. 
 
 We then traversed a very rich country, the yellow appearance 
 of which announced the approach of harvest. In the plain were 
 large plantations of rice. We now entered the pass between the 
 mountains which leads to Tocat, and which here bore W. from Nikmr. 
 On the right is a small village ; the pass then narrows kite* a road 
 delightfully shaded by a wild profusion of trees, whilst a continual 
 rushing of water over a number of small cascades, refreshes the air, 
 and gives a new charm to the scenery around. At the extremity of 
 this pass are one or two villages ; and the road afterwards quits 
 the shade of the trees, and crosses a more open country. 
 
 Three hours before we reached Tocat, we came to the bed of a 
 river, flowing in the direction of our road, and enlivening a rich 
 country of corn, which was then all ripe. On the right of the road, 
 about four miles before the end of our journey, is a rock with ex- 
 cavated chambers*; one of which has an ornamented front. Soon 
 after wc had a view of the great town of Tocat, situated in the hollow 
 of two mountains, in its first appearance considerably diminished 
 below its real. size. As we approached, we crossed the river over 
 a large and solid bridge of five arches ; and then came to a paved 
 
 * This is possibly a part of the celebrated Comana Pontica, which is placed upon the Iris t 
 the modern Tozzan IrmaJc.—See D'Anville's Geogr. Ancienne 1768. torn. ii. p. 38. 
 
 The Christians of the country pointed out to Tavern ier some excavations in this dis- 
 trict, as the retreateof St, John Chrysostom. Tom. i. p. 13. 
 
 ■i 
 
344 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 road, shaded here and there by the foliage of immense walnut-trees. 
 The surrounding territory is very rich in corn, besides a number 
 of enclosures abounding in fruit-trees of every description. We 
 eat here, as at Carahissar, the largest and finest cherries that I 
 ever saw. 
 
 The Musselim of this place is appointed at Constantinople. The 
 person, who at the time of our arrival filled the office, took no 
 part in the quarrels of the chiefs, who were fighting all around him ; 
 and seemed indeed to care little about his own government. When 
 it was announced to him that an Elchee from Persia was about 
 visiting his town on the way to the presence of his sovereign, and 
 required his good offices ; he said, that the Elchee if he chose might 
 take up his lodgings in a caravanserai ; that he should have as many 
 horses as he might want to convey him away ; but as for the rest, 
 he himself could do nothing more for us. We had hitherto experi- 
 enced, in general, more hospitality, but we now accordingly took up 
 our quarters in a caravanserai on the Maidan, and very conveniently 
 lodged ourselves and cattle. 
 
 6th. Tocat is situated on the declivity of three hills, whose bases 
 join. To the Westward it is overlooked by the ruins of a fort, so 
 completely dilapidated, that its remains are scattered unconnectedly 
 over the surface of the rock on which they stand. To the north is a 
 large open spot or Maidan; on one side of Avhich is an excellent 
 caravanserai called the Vaivoda-Khan, and on the other, a very good 
 and well-built mosque. In the centre of the town there is another 
 mosque of equal beauty. The town is said to contain about twenty 
 thousand houses, or one hundred thousand inhabitants. The bazars 
 here are very numerous, and every thing common to Turkey and its 
 wants seemed to be here in plenty. The Armenian merchants com- 
 plained to us indeed of the great dearth of trade, and particularly 
 of that part of it which is connected with the mines. Those mines, 
 which are at Kebban, eight days journey from Tocat, and nearer to 
 Malatia than to any other great town* produce, (besides silver which 
 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 345 
 
 is sent to Constantinople,) between one hundred and one hundred 
 and fifty thousand okes of copper annually, which comes unwrought 
 to Tocat, and is there made up in cakes. The works indeed con- 
 nected with copper, and which occupy about three hundred shops, 
 are the only particular manufactures, for which the town is noted. 
 From these the copper wares are dispersed through all parts of 
 Turkey. 
 
 In the evening of the 7th we continued our journey. We left the city on 
 the same road by which we had entered ; and, crossing the bridge, tra- 
 versed a plain about five miles broad and fifteen long, where the harvest 
 was fully ripe, over one of the richest corn countries that can be imagined. 
 The distance of our stage to Turkhal was about twenty-five miles, on a 
 general bearing of W. This large village comes abruptly to the view, 
 and is remarkable principally as being built about a high rock, which 
 stands isolated from the surrounding mountains, and on the extreme 
 summit of which is the ruin of a fort. The village itself extends round 
 the rock to the Westward. The Tozzan Irmak that flows from Tocat, 
 passes close to the place from S. to N. At Turkhal, though we were 
 housed in a caravanserai (there called khan) , our expences were de- 
 frayed by the Cazi of the place. He had been informed of the treat- 
 ment which we had received from the Musselim of Tocat, and told 
 us that he would spend his hundred purses rather than we should 
 experience a similar reception from his hands. Finding ourselves 
 however uncomfortably situated in the caravanserai, (where, besides 
 our baggage and servants, were our horses) we sought refuge in the 
 garden of a hospitable Turk, who permitted us to spread our carpets 
 on a raised platform under a tree, and helped us without limit to the 
 mulberries and apricots which grew around. But we had not sat there 
 long, before we were surprised by a heavy shower of rain and hail, 
 which obliged us once more to retire to our heated caravanserai. 
 There are very large water wheels here, which are used for irrigating 
 the gardens and fields of the place, and which are turned by the 
 
 y y 
 
346 
 
 ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 fine river that runs through the village. Close to the mosque is a large 
 corn mill, which also is worked by two large wheels. 
 
 We proceeded from Turkhal in the evening, and travelled for the 
 distance of six hours. On passing through two masses of rock, which 
 in the obscurity of the night were extremely grand, we espied a strong 
 light, illuminating a hut and two or three lofty pine-trees. This was 
 one of the guard-houses, called durand, which are stationed at the 
 interval of about four hours, and are common to the territory of 
 Chappan Oglu. They are at once places of security and rest. 
 There is generally a party of eight or ten men kept in them to watch 
 over the safety of the roads. This one, which we were approaching, 
 was peculiarly picturesque. The Tatars, the Mirza, and I, dismounted 
 from our horses ; whilst we permitted the rest of our caravan to pro- 
 ceed. We entered an enclosure of stone- walls, built at the foot of a 
 high pine-tree. In one corner blazed an immense fire. An old Turk, 
 who received us, immediately spread goafs-skins for our seats ; whilst 
 a young man prepared to give us coffee. He first placed the water to 
 boil on the outer-embers of the fire, and then begun to pound the 
 coffee in a wooden vase, which he continued with much activity to a 
 sort of musical stroke, until the whole was beat into an impalpable 
 powder. He then put the pounded coffee into the water, and boiled 
 it up three or four times ; when he poured it into his coffee cup, kept 
 neatly bright, on a circular platter. We then resumed our march, 
 and in six hours from Turkhal made a halt at a large caravanserai 
 where we slept in the open air until the morning, The caravanserai 
 was an extensive building, of strong materials and in good repair. 
 Besides ourselves there were many peasants with their carts drawn by 
 buffaloes, who were waiting the dawn of day to proceed on their 
 journey. Our route led over a mountainous country, till we descended 
 towards Amasia, through a narrow pass bordered on each side by 
 rocks of a surprising size. The opening was not seen, until we were 
 close upon it, when it formed a beautiful and curious picture. The 
 
ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
 
 347 
 
 approaches to Amasia from this side are very striking. On the right 
 is a long chain of heights, which appear in many places to have been 
 worked by the hand of man. Close to the road, and at the foot of 
 these mountains, is a deep channel cut into the rock, which extends 
 at least two miles, and is traced up to the river. It is unquestionably 
 the bed of an aqueduct, and has been the work of immense labour, for 
 the masses, through which in some places it is carried, are of a pro- 
 digious thickness. 
 
 On the left in the valley below, are detached houses, embosomed in 
 gardens and orchards. These are planted with fruit-trees of every 
 kind, and when we passed, were in full perfection. In this direction 
 the city of Amasia is hardly seen until almost its very entrance. The 
 approach is extremely grand ; and every step prepares the stranger 
 for a view which his imagination has already pictured as sublime ; and 
 which realizes every expectation. 
 
 v y e 
 

 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 I 
 
 AMASIA I EXCAVATIONS MARCIVAN OSMANJIK PRECIPICES : 
 
 ROAD OF THE GENOESE TOSIA THE DELHIS CHERKES : RE- 
 MAINS STORM GEREDEH IMPORTANCE OF THE TATARS 
 
 PERSIAN DRESS INSCRIPTION -BOLI I FOREST: GUARDS OF 
 
 THE MOUNTAINS'. TIMBER FOR THE ARSENALS LANDSCAPES: 
 
 KHANDACK ; OUTLAWS SABANJA : CAUSEWAY; LAKE ISMID 
 
 GEVISA CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 AM ASIA is situated in the recess of an amphitheatre of strong 
 featured lands, which arise almost abruptly from the banks of a beau- 
 tiful stream, the Tozzan Irmak, that winds majestically at their roots. 
 The houses are built on either side, on the gradations of the declivities ; 
 and the town extends itself all around. On the North, situated in the 
 highest and most conspicuous part of the mountains, is the castle, which 
 appeared to me much in ruins ; and on the same portion of land, just 
 upwards from the boundaries of the town, are five very conspicuous 
 monuments cut into the rock. I crossed the river over a stone bridge, 
 and ascended the mountain in which they were excavated, escorted and 
 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 349 
 
 guided by a young Turk. We passed by the ruins of a fort built upon 
 a projecting part of the range, and came to three excavated chambers. 
 The first has a triangular ornamented front. The others have platforms 
 before them, and a vestibule cut into the rock behind. We then pro- 
 ceeded on towards the left, and arrived at the two largest excavations,: 
 A path of about three feet in breadth, cut deep within the front of the 
 mass into the appearance of a covered gallery, and guarded by a para- 
 pet wall of solid rock, leads along the side of the mountain. One of 
 these monuments is a mass of hard granite twelve paces square, severed 
 completely from the mountain by an interval (about four feet broad) 
 all around and above it, and excavated into a chamber. The other 
 contiguous and last monument has no passage behind or around. 
 These chambers are said to have been the retreats of St. Chrysos- 
 tom ;* but I could discover no inscription upon them, which might 
 throw any light upon the subject. In the castle above indeed, my 
 young conductor told me there were not only inscriptions but sculp- 
 tures ; but my time would not permit, me to ascend, and I had now 
 only a momentary leisure to enjoy the beauty of the view ; where was 
 the town arranged all about me, the river winding at my feet and 
 struggling under numerous water wheels, and the whole scenery en- 
 riched by the last rays of the setting sun. The minarets of many 
 mosques, (of which one near the river is a very fine building,) break the 
 sameness of the flat- tiled roofs. 
 
 The inhabitants of Amasia are distinguished for their urbanity and at- 
 tention to strangers ; and their women particularly are celebrated as 
 the fairest and most engaging of Asia Minor. Of this I had but a 
 single and chance opportunity to form a judgment: in riding through, 
 the streets, I saw an unveiled female who was joking at the door of 
 her house with a black slave girl, and who was more beautiful than any 
 whom I had long seen; nor as I passed did she shrink from my ob- 
 
 * St. John Chrysostom — possibly in his last exile and wanderings, A. D. 404-7. See 
 Milxer's « History of the Church of Christ." Vol. II. p. 291-3. 
 
350 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 
 servation, for our curiosity was equal. We had a lodging assigned to 
 us in the dwelling of an opulent Turk, close on the banks of the river. 
 He had three brothers who lived in three houses contiguous to his own, 
 and who severally came to pay their respects to us. They were all 
 fairer than any Turks or Asiatics whom I had ever seen. Their man- 
 ners were peculiarly mild and agreeable, and they treated us with the 
 greatest civility. They spoke in raptures of their own city, although 
 none of them had ever seen any other place. 
 
 I was anxious to reach Constantinople as soon as possible, and resolved 
 therefore to leave the Persian Envoy to follow at his leisure, and to 
 proceed myself with increased expedition. Taking fresh horses then, I 
 set off from Amasia at the close of the night. There is an ascent of 
 two hours towards Marcivan ; and then, as far as I could judge in the 
 dark, the road leads through one uniform plain. The total distance 
 from Amasia is reckoned twelve miles, which we had travelled two 
 hours before the sun rose. [11th.] Marcivan abounds with walnut-trees, 
 and is surrounded by corn fields, which, as we were leaving the place at 
 break of day, were animated by the reapers. 
 
 Four hours from Marcivan, on the left of the road is the large village 
 of Haji Kieu, where the great caravan roads from Smyrna, Angora, &c. 
 meet. Shortly after we came to a house where travellers usually stop ; 
 but the inhabitants had now fled to the mountains, in consequence of 
 the passage of the Delhis; and we found only one old man, who 
 brought us some yaourt and cold pillau, and some bread that had been 
 concealed. Then again proceeding, we struck into a steep mountain 
 pass, at the foot of which led a torrent strewed with immense fragments 
 of rocks, that (by an earthquake, or by the washing away of the soil 
 beneath them) had been dislodged from the heights around : and vast 
 masses, which seemed to threaten our destruction as we passed, were 
 still sustained only by large poles or trunks of trees. 
 
 After this pass we entered into a rich but limited plain, thickly 
 studded with trees of every kind, and abounding in corn. At its ex- 
 tremity we stopped at a delicious grove of immense walnut-trees beau- 
 
 ' 
 

 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 351 
 
 tifully watered. In this charming spot was encamped a bat/rack or 
 company of soldiers going from Marcivan on their road towards Con* 
 stantinople. The passage of this species of troops is not dreaded by 
 the country, as they are composed of respectable men, who go to the 
 war through a spirit of religion. 
 
 From an eminence on the road we first discovered the rock of Osman* 
 jik, forming a striking point amid the green and lively scenery of the 
 plain. On this aspect no part of the town of Osmanjik appears, ex- 
 cept a few houses on the skirts of the rock. The bridge, indeed, which 
 leads out of the place is a conspicuous object in the view. On a nearer 
 approach, that which at a distance appeared an immense black mass is 
 found to be broken into several detached heights, all of the same 
 species of stone, and all originally connected by the art of man into 
 one impregnable fortress. The walls and turrets, which still cover the 
 various surfaces, appear the remains of Saracenic work. Osmanjik in 
 its present state is only a large village ; the distance from Marcivan is 
 reckoned a march of fourteen hours. The plain around is cultivated 
 principally with corn and vines ; it is thickly wooded and well watered 
 by the Kizzil Irmak, the ancient Halys, in its course to the W. The 
 river is a deep yellow bordering on the colour of sand, and very much 
 troubled. We crossed it over a well-built bridge of fourteen arches, 
 the materials of which (still white and fresh) attest that it was a 
 structure of the best times of the Government. Four arches on the 
 left are dry, the earth having encroached upon the bed so sub- 
 stantially, that houses and gardens exist now where the water once 
 flowed. 
 
 The passage of the Delhis through this place was marked with 
 peculiar acts of hostility. The inhabitants, who found themselves 
 outraged by their insolence, actually came to blows with them ; and, 
 when at length the troops departed, for several days kept closed the 
 wooden gate on their bridge, until the soldiers were completely out of 
 their neighbourhood. 
 
352 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 We departed from Osmanjik about an hour before sun-set, and 
 paced the banks of the Halys as far as our next stage Haji Hamza, 
 called eight hours from Osmanjik. The scenery of the river appears to 
 partake of every quality which can make landscape admirable. Very 
 fine lands rise above it ; along which, still following the stream in all 
 its windings, the road is carried, presenting to the travellers at every 
 reach new and striking pictures. Here and there we came to fine 
 collections of walnut-trees ; and then crossed large plantations of rice, 
 which, for the facility of irrigation, were situated immediately on the 
 borders of the water. At about two hours from Osmanjik we turned 
 to the left, and ascended a very steep part of the mountains, on a broad 
 paved road, which, as far as the dusk of the evening permitted me to 
 observe, seemed good. On reaching the extreme eminence, I perceived 
 that, we were on the brink of an immense precipice, under which the 
 river was winding ; and that we were enclosed on all sides by stupend- 
 ous heights. The obscurity and stillness of the night gave a solemnity 
 to the scene which I cannot describe. We continued along this 
 precipice, viewing the same grandeur of scenery for some time, but in 
 perfect security : for we were travelling on a road of a smooth and easy 
 surface, and guarded on the side of the danger by a parapet wall. My 
 Janizary told me that the road was cut into the vivid rock by the 
 Genoese. He was probably right in the materials, as in the present 
 age nothing but rock would have been in so good order : perhaps he 
 was right also in the founders, to whom he ascribed the original work ; 
 but the darkness prevented my forming any judgment of the correct- 
 ness of his information. 
 
 We came to Haji Hamza in the dead of the night. The post-house 
 is on the banks of the river. There are few other habitations, except 
 indeed the fort. We had scarcely taken the rest of an hour, when we 
 were again on our horses, on the road to Tosia, called a distance of 
 twelve hours. We came to Tosia about four hours after sun-rise, after 
 having met several caravans, the mules of which were the finest that I 
 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 353 
 
 had seen in the country. In fact, the mules of Turkey, and particu- 
 larly in this part of it, are much larger and finer limbed than any of 
 the sort in Persia. So that the Mirza, when we were travelling toge- 
 ther, was on the point of buying several as a present for the King, de* 
 claring that His Majesty had none of equal beauty. 
 
 Tosia is a large town situated among beautiful environs on the slope 
 of a hill, and presents itself in its whole extent intermixed with several 
 handsome mosques. The post-house is just on the skirts of the 
 town. 
 
 We proceeded from Tosia to Coja Hissar, distant eight hours. On 
 leaving Tosia we entered on an amphitheatre of land, rising in gentle 
 acclivities all around, cultivated more richly than I can describe. The 
 bed of the valley was one layer of corn fields, fenced off by hedges of 
 evergreens and fine trees. We then came to large plantations of rice, 
 and extensive tracts of vineyards. The road was beautifully shaded 
 on both sides, until we came to a station of guards of the mountains, 
 where we entered their waste district, and quitted the cultivation. We 
 reached Coja Hissar about three hours before sun-set. I went into the 
 coffee-house attached to the post-house; and after having eat some 
 soup and meat-balls* I laid myself down to sleep. We had heard 
 that two thousand of the Delhis were encamped in the neighbourhood, 
 about two hours distant from the place ; and accordingly determined 
 to pass them in the night. Little sleep is necessary to the body : when 
 I was awakened by my Janizary, just at the dusk of the evening, I 
 thought that it was the grey of tlie morning, and that I had slept 
 through the night ; and I upbraided him therefore with laziness, for not 
 having proceeded as we had agreed the night before. I felt as refreshed 
 with tiie three hours rest, as if I had slept undisturbed through a whole 
 night, although I had taken no sleep since I had left Amasia, except 
 what had been forced upon me when on my horse. Though sleep will 
 
 " ChorbaK soup; Doltnak, meat-balls, in vine leaves.' 
 z z 
 
354 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 certainly overcome us in defiance of all our efforts, a few minutes suf- 
 fice; and when the strongest paroxysm is over, refresh indeed as much 
 as hours in bed. We are seldom aware how little food and how little 
 sleep are necessary for health and strength. 
 
 When we left Coja Hissar the weather portended a storm. Dark 
 clouds were gathering over the mountains; and as the night closed, we 
 now and then only got a glimpse of a star. This proved very favour- 
 able to us, for we had not rode long before we discovered the numerous 
 fires of the Delhis that illuminated the whole of the country to a consi- 
 derable distance. They were encamped on the opposite side of the 
 river to that on which our road lay, so that guarded by the water and 
 by the darkness, we passed them without being challenged by a 
 single one. 
 
 On the 13th, about one o'clock in the morning, we reached Carajoh 
 a distance of eight hours; and departed again to Carajalar, distant 
 four hours. It is remarkable that the country from Carajol is entirely 
 destitute of trees ; losing, as it were by magic, all that variety of foliage 
 which characterizes the preceding region. We were detained at Cara- 
 jalar, from the morning till the evening, by a deficiency of horses. 
 Although we gave five piastres for the hire of each, yet it was not till 
 we had witnessed a scene of strife and contention amongst the villagers, 
 in which there was some blood shed, that we were supplied. The post- 
 house had been broken up for some time past ; and the burthen, in con- 
 sequence fell upon the people, who, in their several turns, furnished the 
 travellers with horses at the rate of five piastres each ; though on every 
 emergency there was a similar difficulty to enforce the regular levy in 
 succession. As I was waiting for my horses, a deputation from this 
 village returned, which had been sent to the Chief of the Delhis for the 
 purpose of offering him a certain sum of money, in case he did not re- 
 main there with his troops longer than one night. The object was at- 
 tained, though I could not learn the amount of the stipulated payment. 
 In this manner the Bey commanding the Delhis enriches himself during 
 his march, 
 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 355 
 
 At length, after having collected my horses from various quarters, I 
 departed for Geredeh, distant sixteen hours. At six hours from Cara- 
 jalar is a large town called Cherkes, situated in a plain, environed by 
 some pretty groupes of trees. It is surrounded by a wall, and on enter- 
 ing one of the gates, I casually observed on the outside a Greek in- 
 scription in good character, carved on a stone which formed the 
 lowermost part of the arch. On quitting the place I noticed on the 
 road side, at several intervals, shafts of small columns terminated on 
 either side by a plinth and tores, and apparently erected as monuments in 
 places of burial; for all around were spread other blocks of stone, more 
 obviously designed to cover graves. As the night closed we deviated 
 from the road to avoid Hamanlee, the town and fortress of a man 
 (Hajee Ahmet Oglu,) who, being a rebel to the Porte, is always in 
 arms ; and whose parties (patroling the hills in watch for his safety) 
 infest the whole country, and sometimes have not spared travellers. 
 Instead, therefore, of ascending the mountain, we turned to the left 
 through a valley. There was every appearance of a storm as the night 
 fell; and our apprehensions were soon realized. We were overtaken in 
 the open country by one of the severest tempests of rain, thunder, and 
 lightning, that I ever witnessed. Our horses refused to proceed, and 
 turned their backs instinctively to the storm. The whole country was 
 lighted by the flashes, which, ceasing at intervals, left us in impenetra- 
 ble darkness. I can bear witness in this instance to the excellence of 
 English broad cloth, a cloak of which preserved me from the heaviest 
 torrents of rain, whilst my Janizary, who had a Turkish cloak made of 
 a species of felt, was drenched from head to foot. After the storm had 
 expended itself, we proceeded, till we reached the skirts of a village, where 
 we fed our horses, and slept for an hour on the wet grass. 14th. The 
 morning broke with unusual splendour, and introduced a most roman- 
 tic country to us. We had now ascended to a region, the elevation of 
 which was marked very sensibly by the increase of the cold, and by the 
 tardiness of vegetation in comparison to that of the plains below. The 
 peasantry were here ploughing the ground; and some delightful 
 
 z z 2 
 
356 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 patches of cultivation were interspersed amongst the ranges of pines 
 and other forest trees, that covered the summits and enlivened the de- 
 clivity of the mountains. 
 
 Geredih is a large town ; at the entrance is a very extensive tannery. 
 The shops and coffee-houses of the bazars seemed also well peopled by 
 a great number of well-looking Turks, sitting down and enjoying them- 
 selves with their pipes. We had been taught to apprehend here also 
 a second detention for horses, from the great number of Tatars who 
 had been passing. One of them indeed had just preceded us ; and had 
 left us a part of his meal of fried eggs and soup. The Tatars look upon 
 themselves as great personages on the road ; and expect proportionate 
 attention at the post-houses, which, as I observed, was scarcely ever 
 denied to them. The Tatar who accompanied me was so tenacious 
 Of this consequence of his class, that he always took the best things 
 for himself, and treated me as his inferior. Whenever he arrived, a 
 fcoft seat and a cushion were spread for him, and, as he lighted his 
 pipe, a dish of coffee was prepared for him ; whilst to me he trans- 
 ferred an indifferent seat and the second dish. The fact is, indeed, 
 that my appearance bespoke very little of the master ; and I could 
 hardly wonder therefore that the Tatar was treated with all the respect 
 which I might have expected as due to myself. My black skin cap 
 was become very dusty ; my silk trowsers were all torn ; my Persian 
 boots were soaked with rain and twisted under the heel ; whilst my 
 coat and great coat were all in dirt and in rags. As I did not wish 
 to travel in my own character, knowing how extravagantly Frangees 
 (and Englishmen in particular) are made to pay, I was well content to 
 pass for a Persian : and the little notice that was thus taken of one 
 looking so miserable, gave me liberty to walk about and make my obser- 
 vations at my ease. Of all this contrast of our appearance however, 
 my Tatar profited ; travelling as a gentleman at my expence, whilst I 
 as easily passed for his attendant. 
 
 From Gered^k to Boli is twelve hours. On quitting GeredSh we 
 crossed one of the most beautiful regions that I had ever seen. It was 
 
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AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 357 
 
 a continual garden of vineyards and corn-fields, shaded by walnut 
 and oak trees, growing here to a greater size than any that I had 
 hitherto found in the country. At very frequent intervals, on each 
 side of the road, were large collections of blocks of stone, of different 
 shapes, squares, oblongs, and pillars of five or six feet high : several 
 with Greek inscriptions upon them. That these spots were ancient 
 places of burial is more certain, because there are now mixed among 
 them many modern tombstones. There are two inscriptions near the 
 durand or guard-house : one, on a column on the left of the road ; and 
 one, inserted in a wall on the right. I did not care for the chance of 
 decyphering them to stop the rapid progress of our journey, (for we 
 now went generally on a full gallop ;) but on coming up to a very 
 conspicuous pillar on the side of the road near a fountain, I could not 
 neglect the opportunity of copying it, (see plate XXIX.) while our 
 horses were drinking. It was terminated by a cross, which was an 
 evidence that the monument had some connection with the primitive 
 Christians. I wished much to have taken the other inscriptions ; as, 
 in general, they seemed legible ; but I found that any notice of Greek 
 was incompatible with the character of a Persian, and might have 
 excited a suspicion of my disguise. As we approached Bolt, the 
 beauty of the country and the richness of cultivation increased. The 
 plain, in which the town is situated, is quite a garden ; and was then 
 displaying all the lively green of the height of spring, except where the 
 ripened corn broke in upon the general verdure. The quantity of 
 rain, that had so lately fallen, had left this brilliant freshness on nature ; 
 but, even without this extraordinary supply, there is never any dearth 
 of water. Boli> on the side by which we approached it, is not seen 
 until we enter its very streets, as it is situated behind a hill. It is a 
 large place surrounded by an open palisade, which indeed is its only 
 defence. From the appearance of the streets and bazars the place is 
 well peopled. As we galloped into the town in the true haste and 
 style of couriers with our surujees (or conductors), making a kind of 
 hideous noise to announce our approach, a company of Turkish 
 
358 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 soldiers, with colours flying (and preceded by a man beating a sort of 
 little kettle drum tied to his middle) entered at a very slow and admir- 
 ably-contrasted pace. 
 
 We departed from Boli in the evening; and, having quitted its 
 delightful plain, begun to wind among mountains, and entered the 
 large forest to which Boli gives its name. Through the whole there is 
 a fine causeway made by some pious Mussulman*, which is a sufficient 
 guide to the traveller if he will only follow it through all its windings. 
 The Tatars prefer the side to the road itself ; though the path which 
 they thus make for themselves may be full of water and mud. We 
 chose the same, even when it was dark ■, for of the two evils, the fatigue 
 of wading is less to the horses and mules, than that of scrambling and 
 stumbling over the pavement. 
 
 Having rode six hours through the forest we reached a small wooden 
 hut, the station of the guards of the mountains. Here we determined 
 to wait till morning, as my Tatar told me that the forest grew so much 
 thicker as we advanced, that in so dark a night it became dangerous to 
 proceed. We unloaded therefore our baggage, and seated ourselves 
 among a party of a dozen Turks, the chief of whom, a merry fellow, 
 did the honours of his hut very agreeably. He was seated in the 
 corner, and his men were strewed around him on the floor. Pistols, 
 swords and muskets, and every implement of a soldier, were hung along 
 the walls. Whilst the oldest of the party made some coffee for us, 
 the youngest took down a rude guitar from a peg, and broke the 
 stillness of the night by a song, to which he applied the whole force of 
 his lungs, and which did not ill express the wild life of himself and his 
 companions. I attempted to compose myself to sleep in a corner, but 
 the heat of an immense wood-fire had given so much animation and 
 impertinence to the fleas and vermin of the hut, that I was obliged to 
 
 * It was made by the celebrated Kuprigli, the Grand Vizier. See Tavernier. 
 Tom. I. p. 7. 
 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 359 
 
 take refuge in an open shed on the outside, where I slept very soundly 
 till the morning. 
 
 15th. As the morning broke, we proceeded on our journey, and pene- 
 trated the deeps of the forest. The road, in some of its windings through 
 the rich wood-land, presented some of the most fanciful and picturesque 
 landscapes that the imagination of a painter could wish. I remarked 
 some of the finest specimens of ash, elm, plane, poplar, larch and 
 beech ; with, now and then, some oaks larger than any that I had 
 ever seen in Asia. This forest, which extends over a vast tract of 
 country*, supplies an unceasing source of timber to the arsenals of 
 Constantinople. Their mode of felling the tree is susceptible of much 
 improvement ; for they first burn it towards the root, (by which they 
 injure the finest part of the wood) and then apply the axe. In our 
 progress we overtook immense spars which were dragged by buffaloes, 
 and by slow journies are thus brought to Constantinople. Each end 
 is supported on a light carriage of two wheels ; but it requires all the 
 prodigious strength of the buffaloe (and no other animal is equal to 
 the attempt) to be able to cope with the difficulties which the extreme 
 badness of the roads in the rainy season presents. We heard the 
 howling of wolves all around us ; and their great numbers are some- 
 times fatal to those travellers, who risk themselves at night through the 
 wilds of the forest. 
 
 Khandak, our next stage, twelve miles from Bolt, is famed for the 
 ferocity and wild freedom of its inhabitants. It is a village situated 
 in the very heart of the forest, and its first appearance presents all the 
 beauty that an intermixture of wood, water, cultivation, and buildings 
 can combine. The low houses, with their shelving roofs nicely tiled, 
 at the foot of lofty trees, (with partial openings here and there, where 
 murmured a stream of pure water) ; still more enlivened by the most 
 
 * It is called the Agatch Degnis, or " Sea of Trees." See its extent in Otter. Tom. II. 
 
360 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 picturesque looking men and women, really formed a landscape which 
 a Claude, a Hobbima, or a Ruysdael would have envied. We 
 soon discovered however the temper of the inhabitants : all the men 
 and even boys of ten years old, wore a brace of pistols, and a large 
 knife in their girdles ; and displayed countenances more expressive of 
 savage hardihood than I recollect to have ever seen. This horde of 
 desperadoes is extremely obnoxious to the Porte; but, entrenched in 
 their woods, they bid defiance to firmans or Capidgi Bashees. Within 
 these few years (and the fresh appearance of the houses attests the fact) 
 an officer from Constantinople was sent with a large body of men to 
 surprise the inhabitants, and either to destroy them or take them pri- 
 soners ; but they had notice of the design, and fled into the fastnesses 
 of the woods, leaving their homes as the prey of the invaders, who im- 
 mediately burnt them to the ground, destroying all the poor creatures 
 that happened to fall into their way. No sooner however had the 
 troops of the Porte quitted the territory than the natives returned, 
 cleared away the smoking rubbish, and rebuilt their houses, as if nothing 
 had happened. 
 
 16th. We were here obliged to pay five piastres a horse to proceed to 
 Sabanja, distant twelve hours. As we departed from Khandak, the road 
 begun gradually to open, and presented to us extensive tracts of culti- 
 vation. We came to a long causeway of wood, formed indeed only of 
 trees thrown across and so completely out of repair, that we passed it 
 in many places at the hazard of our lives. At its termination (several 
 hours from Khandak) there is a wooden bridge of considerable extent, 
 but a part of it had fallen ; and we were obliged therefore to ford the 
 river over which it is built, and which was broad but not deep or rapid, 
 although much rain had lately fallen. We followed a cart dragged 
 by buffaloes across the stream, and got in safety over it. After the 
 passage of the river we reached the borders of the beautiful lake of 
 Sabanja, surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting scenery; 
 its distant mountains and waters dying away in the softest tints on the 
 
 iBHiitti 
 
 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 361 
 
 horizon. We traversed its shores for nearly three hours, passing lands 
 the fine projeetions and woods of which reflected in the water below the 
 most beautiful pictures. 
 
 Sabanja is a place situated in a very thick wood, and notorious 
 equally for the impudence and the independance of its inhabitants. 
 We were not long detained at the post-house ; and departed for Ismid, 
 hoping to reach it before the close of night, as the road was reported 
 unsafe after a certain hour. Although it was too dark to analyse 
 the beauties of the plain towards Ismid, yet the general outline of the 
 country was sufficiently discernible to impress me with an idea of its 
 beauty and magnificence : and something also I gained by the solemn 
 and dubious light of evening, as it softened and harmonized the whole 
 landscape. 
 
 It was, however, entirely dark when we crossed the long causeway 
 that leads into Ismid. The plain was here and there illumined by the 
 fires of the caravans that had encamped for the night. We put up at 
 the coffee-house adjacent to the post, and early in the morning departed 
 for Gevisa, distant nine hours. Ismid is a large town most delightfully 
 situated on the declivity of the mountain bordering on the branch of 
 the sea, that forms its deep and beautiful gulph. In my rapid progress 
 I could just ascertain that the place contained some well-built houses, 
 and some in situations that must have commanded fine and extensive 
 views of all its scenery. The water is so girt around with high moun- 
 tains that it appears a great lake ; but the imagination is soon unde- 
 ceived by remarking the large boats which navigate it, and which I soon 
 recognized to be those of Constantinople and the Bosphorus. My anxiety 
 to reach the end of my journey was now increased ; and I stopped not 
 to examine the antiquities of Ismid* 
 
 At about four hours from Ismid, having in many parts of the road 
 paced the shores of the sea, we reached a small village situated on the 
 
 * The ancient Nicomedia. 
 3 A 
 
362 
 
 AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 very borders of it. Here were passage-boats to Constantinople, and many 
 persons were going. I preferred, however, the surer route, and conti- 
 nued with my post-horses to Gevisa, ascending a steep road near an old 
 and ruined fortification. 
 
 Gevisa is a small town with a good mosque and neat minarets nicely 
 white-washed. The country around it was little cultivated and less 
 wooded, so that it excited in me no other interest than that which its 
 vicinity to the capital might give. Yet, in any other circumstances 
 than those of my eagerness to reach Constantinople, I should not have 
 overlooked the delight of searching for the tomb of Hannibal. I now 
 however, made every haste to get to Scutari before dark, but I did not 
 succeed, and was obliged to pass the night in a coffee-house on the 
 borders of the Bosphoms. 
 
 The next morning, the 18th July 1809, I crossed from Scutari, and 
 took up my abode in Pcra, having completed the journey from Teheran 
 in two months and ten days, in which time I had not once slept out of 
 my clothes. 
 
CHAP. XIX. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 PERSIAN OPINIONS OF TURKEY MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, THfi 
 
 ENVOY, ENTERTAINED BY MR. ADAIR: INTRODUCTION OF THE 
 
 SUITE TO THE MANNERS OF EUROPE THEIR ACCOMMODATIONS 
 
 TO OUR USAGES CONTRASTED WITH THE TURKS DIFFERENCE 
 
 OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER ADVANCES OF PERSIA DE- 
 PARTURE FROM TURKEY THE PERSIANS AT SEA CONVERSA- 
 TIONS WITH THE ENVOY! ON THE DRESS, BEAUTY, OCCUPATIONS, 
 AND EDUCATION OF THE WOMEN OF PERSIA. 
 
 AN a short time after my arrival, the Persian Envoy and his suite 
 rejoined me at Constantifiople. The splendour of the scenery, and the 
 great novelty of every object about that city, did not seem to strike 
 them with the surprise that I had expected. Few people are more 
 sensible than they are to any thing, that is new and extraordinary ; 
 and few more curious and inquisitive. I could therefore only attribute 
 their apparent indifference to the downright jealousy which they 
 entertain of the Turks. Often when (struck with the beauties of the 
 very fine tracts of country which we were passing) I have attempted to 
 make them join in my feelings of admiration, they merely yielded a 
 
 3 a 2 
 
364 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 cool assent; always endeavouring to lessen my ardour by saying, 
 " what is the use of such country, if it be without order?" And they 
 considered almost as a gross national insult any comparison between 
 the arid unshaded mountains of Persia, and the splendid foliage and 
 rich vegetation of the Turkish dominions. As, however, they were 
 very keenly alive to the beauties of nature, and enjoyed much the 
 shade of trees and the refreshing sound of running water ; and as such 
 spots recurred constantly during the course of our journey, they could 
 not restrain their expressions of delight, though they always added at 
 the same time, " What a pity this charming country is in the hands 
 " of these people ! If we had it, (and God grant we shall) what a 
 " paradise it would be." 
 
 I frequently visited the Mirza Abul Hassan at Scutari. The 
 windows of his apartment had a fine view of the great extent of Con- 
 stantinople, the Seraglio point, the shipping in the harbour, the palaces 
 of Doima Baghehe, and part of the Sultan's fleet, (consisting of two 
 three-deckers and five seventy-fours, at their anchorage) and all the 
 activity spread over the Bosphorus by the numerous vessels of all 
 descriptions rowing about in every direction, altogether forming the 
 most beautiful picture that an imagination the most fertile could picture 
 to itself; and contrasted in the strongest manner with the misery, 
 dulness, and sterility of Teheran and its surrounding scenery. When- 
 ever I called his attention to it, he seemed to shrink from the observa- 
 tion ; and if I talked of the Turkish fleet, he said, " who can look at 
 " any ships, after he has seen English ships?" Indeed, he was so 
 little disposed to compliment the Turks, that when the Caimakan* 
 being desirous to inspire him with a grand idea of the naval force of 
 the Sultan, sent a Turkish officer to conduct him near the fleet, the 
 Persian replied, " I have seen English ships much finer than any 
 " thing that you can show me." 
 
 Yet in cases where no national jealousy intervened, whenever 
 hospitality and kindness were shewn the Persian, I must do him the 
 
mm 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 365 
 
 justice to add, that he never omitted to make the strongest acknow- 
 ledgments of them ; and, I believe, the fullest returns in his power. 
 The most trifling attention never appeared, from the general conver- 
 sation and temper of him or his people, to be thrown away upon them. 
 The Envoy always spoke in raptures of the kindnesses which he 
 had received in India, mentioning the names of his friends every 
 time with an increased delight, and apparently with an unfeigned 
 sincerity. 
 
 During the Mirza's residence at Constantinople, he was invited by 
 Mr. Adair to an entertainment, given on the occasion, and consisting 
 of a dinner under tents at the BuyukderS meadow, and a ball and 
 supper at night, in a house borrowed for the purpose. The Mirza 
 did not seem at all astonished at the introduction of ladies into the 
 society of men, as he had already witnessed our customs in the 
 English settlements in India : but his attendants, who had just left the 
 very innermost parts of Persia, by one common consent collected them- 
 selves together in a corner, and eyed every thing with the most anxious 
 astonishment and attention. Their natural loquacity seemed to have 
 quite forsaken them, and they sat with their mouths wide open, and 
 eyes full-staring, and uttered not a single Avord. 
 
 When the hour of dancing arrived, the Mirza entered the ball-room, 
 escorted by all his servants. There his people were more than ever in 
 amaze, particularly when the whole assembly was in motion. Of all 
 the dances the Waltz excited the most wonder and perhaps apprehen- 
 sion, for one of them quietly asked my servant in Turkish, " Pray 
 " does any thing ensue after all this?" 
 
 In the national character of the Persian, the most striking differ- 
 ence from that of the Turk is perhaps the facility with which he 
 adopts foreign manners and customs. I remarked two instances 
 during our stay at Constantinople : the first occurred one morning when 
 I went to visit the Mirza, where one of his servants took off his cap 
 and saluted me by a bow in our fashion : again, at a ball, several of 
 
366 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 his attendants took off their caps and sat bald-headed, from the sup- 
 position that it was disrespectful in European company to keep the 
 head covered, whilst they saw every one uncovered. There were 
 many other accommodations to our usages which would never have 
 been yielded by a Turk ; such as eating with knives and forks, sitting 
 at table, drinking wine, &c. The Mirza himself told me that when 
 he was in Calcutta, he wore leather-breeches and boots. I am sure 
 then that if the Persians had possessed as much communication with 
 Europeans, as the Turks have had, they would at this day not only 
 have adopted many of our customs, but, with their natural quickness, 
 would have rivalled us in our own arts and sciences. Unlike the 
 Turks, they never scruple to acknowledge our superiority, always 
 however reserving to themselves the second place after the English in 
 the list of nations : whereas the Turk, too proud, too obstinate, and 
 too ignorant to confess his own inferiority, spurns at the introduction 
 of any improvement with equal disdain from any nation. 
 
 The great changes that are now making in the military system in 
 Persia, particularly by the Prince Royal in Aderbigian, will in a very 
 short time so much influence the general character and disposition of 
 the people, that they will scarcely be recognizable. Ever since 
 their late wars with Russia, and their political connections with Europe, 
 the effect produced has been most striking : and a person of excellent 
 authority, who was in Persia during the time of Kerim Khan, af- 
 firmed, in my hearing, that the nation could scarcely be considered 
 the same. 
 
 From Constantinople we went to Smyrna, where we remained till we 
 quitted Turkey. On the 7th September 1809, the Mirza and his 
 servants went on board the Success, Captain Ayscougii, to proceed to 
 England. The people of Smyrna gathered in crowds to see him. The 
 yards were manned; and he was honoured with a salute of fifteen 
 guns, which (as soon at least as it was over) gave him no little 
 satisfaction. 
 
 
■■■ 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 367 
 
 He soon accommodated himself to the manner of a ship, sleeping 
 in a cot, and eating with a knife and fork. He did not miss a single 
 opportunity of informing himself on every tiling which he saw on 
 board ; and whatever he learned, he carefully noted in a book. 
 His attendants seldom complained, except sometimes of the badness 
 of the water, the hardness of the biscuit, and the want of fruit. I 
 was struck with their natural ignorance of relative distance: they 
 had been ever accustomed to calculate distance by mtnzils or day's 
 journies ; and they were surprised to find it impossible to continue 
 such reckoning. A world of water seemed to them incomprehensible; 
 and one of them gravely said to me — "This is quite extraordinary : 
 " this country of your's is nothing but water !" 
 
 The Persians were particularly astonished, that women and little 
 boys went to sea. The Mirza seeing some women on board the 
 Success, exclaimed, " Is it possible! if I were to tell our women in 
 " Persia that there were women in ships, they would never believe 
 " me. To go from one town to another is considered a great under- 
 u taking amongst them; but here your women go from one end of 
 " the world to the other, and think nothing of it. If it were even 
 " known in my family that I was now in a ship and on the great 
 " seas, there would be nothing but wailings and lamentations from 
 " morning to night." 
 
 Among the many things which struck the Persians as extraordinary 
 on board the ship, was the business of signals. They looked very 
 much inclined to believe, that I was telling them untruths, when I 
 said, that at two fursungs distance they might ask any questions from 
 another ship, and receive an immediate answer: and that when we 
 should reach England, our arrival would be known in London in ten 
 minutes, and every necessary order returned before we could get 
 out of the ship. All these tilings the Mirza carefully noted down in 
 his book, ever exclaiming, " God grant that all such things may take 
 " place in my country too 1" 
 
368 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 When we arrived at Malta we were not permitted to land on ac- 
 count of the quarantine; a very mortifying prohibition to the Per- 
 sians, who had no greater wish than to set foot once again on shore. 
 I could make the Envoy indeed comprehend the nature of quarantine 
 laws; but his people were not so tractable, and frequently sug- 
 gested their fears to him, that he might not be allowed to land 
 even in England. He spoke seriously to me : — " It is well that I 
 " have already seen your countrymen, and know many of their 
 " regulations; for, if any other Persian had been in my place he 
 " would have required instantly to return back to his own coun- 
 " try/' They were much delighted with the exterior of Malta; 
 and particularly with the quantity of shipping in the port. On 
 the left of the harbour, there is a very fine building begun by 
 Buonaparte, intended as a hospital. They seemed mightily as- 
 tonished that so superb a building should be the habitation of 
 the sick. 
 
 Those, indeed, who have been accustomed to live under an arbi- 
 trary government, and to see acts of despotism committed every 
 day, look with contempt, rather than with admiration, upon the 
 establishments of a free and liberal government; and ridicule objects 
 by which the promoter apparently and directly gains nothing. 
 
 We talked of female dress. I asked the Envoy what effect the visit 
 of an European woman dressed in her own way would produce in 
 Persia. He replied, that " if the King were to see her, He would 
 " probably order all his Harem to adopt the costume, and that every 
 " other man would follow his example, and enforce a fashion, which 
 " is not only so much more beautiful, but so much less expensive than 
 " their own. Their women are clothed in brocade and gold cloth, 
 " which is soon spoilt ; or at least which is always cast off, whenever 
 " they hear that a new cargo arrives from Russia." 
 
 I asked him if he had seen any handsome women in Constantinople : 
 he replied, that he had seen none so beautiful as those of Persia. 
 
 in 
 
 _ 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 369 
 
 " They were fair indeed, but they wanted that carnation on their cheeks, 
 " which is called the numuck or salt of beauty ; and which is the se- 
 " cond requisite of female perfection. The first is large black eyes with 
 " brows very much arched." A tame antelope was then playing about 
 the cabin close to me, when the Mirza said, " Do your poets ever use 
 M the simile so constantly applied by ours, ' eyes like the stag?' The 
 " frequency of that image will prove the value which we attach to the 
 " object/' 
 
 I desired him to tell me the principal occupations of the women in 
 the Harem. He complied : " They sew, embroider, and spin : they 
 " make their own clothes ; and my wife even used to make mine : 
 " besides that, they superintend all the domestic concerns of the 
 " house ; they keep an account of the daily expences ; distribute pro- 
 " visions to the servants ; pay their wages ; settle all disputes between 
 " them ; manage the concerns of the stable ; see that the horses 
 " have their corn ; and, in short, have the care of all the disbursements 
 " of the house. The King's mother had more business than can be 
 " described. She had the controul of all her son's Harem, which 
 " might consist altogether of more than a thousand women : and you 
 " may well conceive the trouble which they could give." When I 
 suggested the difficulty of a woman transacting so many occupations, 
 without seeing any other man than her husband, and asked how she 
 could settle any business but that of the Harem itself? and how she 
 could succeed even in that without seeing the men servants? He 
 replied, that " in the households of Persia there is always an officer 
 " called a Nazir, with whom the wife daily arranges all that relates to 
 " the male part of the establishment, to whom she pays the wages of 
 " the others ; and who is accountable to her." As a necessary prepa- 
 ration for the duties which thus devolve upon them, the women of 
 Persia learn to read and write: as children they are sent to school 
 with the boys, and when too old to be permitted to go unveiled, 
 their education is finished at home by female Mollahs, who attend them 
 
 3b 
 
 
i70 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 for the purpose. They do not, however, like European women, 
 learn music and dancing: these arts are taught to slaves onty, 
 who practise them for the amusement of their owners : and the 
 wives never sing or dance, except perhaps at the wedding of a brother 
 or sister. 
 
 The King has this right over all the women of his realm, that 
 they must appear unveiled before him. 
 
THE AKAB PIRATES. 
 
 (jj. 44.] 
 
 THE Arabs in every age, have been alike distinguished for a spirit of 
 commerce and of plunder : and were early and great navigators, both 
 as merchants and as pirates. In the time of Mahomed there existed 
 a predatory tribe, whose chief is described in the Koran, according to 
 Ebn Haukal,* as " the King, who forcibly seized every sound ship." 
 This empire is said to have been founded prior to the time of Moses ; 
 and if the continuance of the same occupations on the spot be a proof 
 of the identity of the people, it may be traced to the Arabs of the 
 present day. 
 
 The Portuguese power was often violated by these pirates :f and in 
 the same age the English interests in the East were so much endangered 
 by them, that one of the Agents in Persia (who had all indeed succes- 
 sively made representations on the necessity of sending an armed force 
 to destroy them) declared, that " they were likely to become as great 
 " plagues in India, as the Algerines were in Europe/'^ Some of these 
 ships had from thirty to fifty guns :§ and one of their fleets, consisting 
 of five ships, carried between them one thousand five hundred men.|| 
 
 * Sir William Ouseley's Ebn Haukal, p. 12. p. 95. 
 
 t Stevens's Faria y Sousa, vol. iii. p. 30, &c. 
 
 X Bruce's Annals of the East India Company, vol. iii. p. 198. 
 
 ^ and || Brvce, iii. 649. 169. In 1715 the Muscat fleet consisted of one ship ofseventj- 
 
 3b2 
 
372 
 
 ARAB PIRATES. 
 
 Within the last few years, their attacks have been almost indiscriminate ; 
 nor had they learnt, to respect even the English colours, as the instance 
 in the text, .aid the subsequent capture of the Minerva, Captain 
 Hopgood, proved too well. The British government however, know- 
 ing the intimate connection of these pirates on the coast with the 
 Wahabee* proceeded in the suppression of the evil with cautious judg- 
 ment; and when, by the extension of these outrages to themselves,, 
 they were driven to vindicate the honour of their flag, and to extirpate 
 their enemies, they regarded all the ports, which had not actually in- 
 cluded the British within their depredations, as still neutral; and 
 endeavoured to confine their warfare to reprisals, for specific acts of 
 violence, rather than to commit themselves generally against the 
 Wahabees, by extending the attack to those of that alliance who, 
 amid all their piracies, had yet not violated the commerce of 
 England. 
 
 We might indeed thus separate the Joassmee tribe from the Wahabee, 
 for we had already, in a formal treaty, recognised them as an inde- 
 pendant power ; though perhaps for all other purposes, they might be 
 considered as identified. The strength however of the Joasjnees alone 
 was very considerable. The ports in their possession contained, ac- 
 
 ftur guns, two of sixty, one of fifty, and eighteen from thirty-two to twelve guns ; besides 
 fmaller, &c. Captain Hamilton, East Indies, i. p. 76. Modern Universal History 
 vi. 46. 
 
 * The first mention of the Wahabees, is in Niebuhr, Description de l'Arabie, p. 17, 
 p. 296—302: and Gibbon first noticed the singular co-incidence, that they sprung from 
 the same province, Nedsjed, in which Moseilama the great contemporary adversary of 
 Mahomed, had propagated his faith, vol. v. p. 277. It may be added, that the Carina- 
 thians, who triumphed over the Mahomedans, like the Wahabees of the present day, and 
 like them took Mecca, (and plundered it indeed much more effectually than their succes- 
 sors are said to have done) in the same manner took possession first of the provinces on 
 the Persian Gulph. See Gibbon, v. 449. Sale's Koran, p. 184. D'Ohsson, Tableau, 
 de r&npire Ottoman, torn i, p 105, 
 
 
ARAB PIRATES. 
 
 373 
 
 cording to a well -authenticated calculation, in the middle of the year 
 1809, sixty-three large vessels, and eight hundred and ten of smaller 
 sizes ; together manned by near nineteen thousand men. This force 
 was increasing ; the pirates, in a fleet of fifty-five ships, of various sizes, 
 containing altogether five thousand men, had, after a fight of two days, 
 taken the Minerva, and murdered almost all the crew : in the next 
 month a fleet of seventy sail of vessels, (navigated severally by num- 
 bers rising from eighty to one hundred and fifty and two hundred 
 men) were cruizing about the Gulph and threatening Bushire : and 
 the chief of Ras al Khyma (the Roselkeim* of the text, p. 44,) whose 
 harbour was almost the exclusive resort of the larger vessels, had 
 dared to demand a tribute from the British government, that their 
 ships might navigate the Persian Gulph in safety. Our forbearance 
 was now exhausted, and an expedition was sent from Bombay, under 
 Captain Wain w right, and Lieutenant-Colonel Smith, of His 
 Majesty's sea and land forces, to attack the pirates in their ports. 
 The first object was Ras al Khyma. The armament, after a short 
 siege, carried the place by storm, destroyed all the naval equipments, 
 and sparing the smaller vessels, burnt the fifty large ships which the 
 harbour contained. They proceeded to the ports of the Arab pirates 
 on the Persian coast, and completed the destruction of all their means 
 of annoyance. They then attacked Shinass, one of their harbours on 
 the Indian ocean. The defence of this place was most heroical ; and 
 was conducted indeed for the Joas?nees, as was subsequently learnt, by 
 a favourite and confidential general of S a ood Ib n Abdool Uzzeer, 
 the chief of the Wahabees. When on the third day of the siege, the 
 few survivors were called upon to surrender, they replied, that they 
 preferred death to submission ; and when the towers were falling round 
 
 * It is not clear that Egmaun is rightly placed in the text, p. 44. Our late expedition 
 has furnished us with a knowledge of the Persian Gulph, which will rectify many import- 
 ant errors. The coast from Khor Hassan is said to have been laid down forty-eight miles, 
 too much to the south. 
 
374 
 
 ARAB PIRATES. 
 
 them, they returned upon their assailants the hand-grenades and fire-- 
 balls before they could burst. Twice Lieutenant-Colonel Smith 
 ceased firing, to endeavour to spare the unavailing effusion of their 
 blood ; till at length, when they were assured of being protected from 
 the fury of the troops of our ally the Imaum of Muscat, which had 
 co-operated with us, they surrendered to the English. 
 
 The expedition then scoured all the coast a second time, to destroy 
 any fragments of that pirate power, against which it was directed ; 
 and extirpated in every quarter all the means of annoyance which the 
 Joassmees possessed. There was indeed another force of another tribe, 
 which might eventually grow up into a formidable enemy ; but this was 
 distinctly under the protection of the JVahabee, who had invested its 
 chief with the title of Sheik al Behr, or " Lord of the Sea ;" and till 
 it marked its hostility to us by joining in the attacks upon our com- 
 merce, it was judged expedient not to confound it in one indiscrimi- 
 nate warfare ; but rather to open a communication with this particular 
 chief, and through him to the JVahabee himself, advising the one to 
 prohibit the piracies of his dependants, and requiring the other to 
 respect the flag of England. In answer the JVahabee observed, " The 
 <; cause of the hostilities carrying on between me and the members of 
 " the faith, is their having turned away from the Book of the Creator, 
 "and refused to submit to their own prophet Mahomed. It is not 
 " therefore those of another sect, against whom I wage war, nor do I 
 " interfere in their hostile operations, nor assist them against any one; 
 " whilst under the power of the Almighty, I have risen superior to 
 " all my enemies/' * * * " Under these circumstances, I have 
 " deemed it necessary to advise you that I shall not approach your 
 " shores, and have interdicted the followers of the Mahomedan faith 
 " and their vessels, from offering any molestation to your vessels : 
 " any of your merchants therefore, who may appear in, or wish to 
 " come to my ports, will be in security ; and any person on my part 
 " who may repair to you, ought in like manner to be in safety." * * * 
 " Be not therefore elated with the conflagration of a few vessels, for 
 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 375 
 
 u they are of no estimation in my opinion, in that of their owners, or 
 " of their country. In truth then war is bitter ; and a fool only 
 " engages in it, as a poet has said/' 
 
 The want of timber has always been felt so much by the people of 
 the two Gulphs, and of the Western coast of the Indian ocean, that a 
 check on their supplies from the Malabar coast, which Brigadier- 
 General Malcolm very seasonably suggested, will probably keep 
 down the future growth of the pirate power. The fleet of the Soldan 
 of Egypt, which was destined to relieve Diu, was formed of Dalma- 
 tian timber, transported overland to the arsenals of Suez ;* and even 
 some of the houses at Siraff, on the Gulph of Persia,f were formed 
 of European wood. In the seventeenth century, the Arabs of Muscat, 
 who subsequently formed connections on the Malabar coast to procure 
 timber, obtained permission from the King of Pegu to build ships in 
 the ports of his country.:!: If therefore the importation of foreign wood 
 were cut off, the Arabs could hardly, without extreme difficulty, main- 
 tain a naval force. 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 [p. 86.] 
 
 The city of Shapour derived its name from the monarch who 
 founded it,§ Sapor, the son of Artaxerxes, and the second Prince 
 of the Sassanian family. In his reign it was probably one of the 
 capitals of Persia ; and for some ages continued to be the chief city 
 of that district of Persis Proper, which was connected with his name, 
 
 * Faria y Sousa, Asia Portuguese by Stevens, vol. i. p. 135. 
 t See Renaudot's " Anciens Relations." 
 ■% Bruce's Annals of the East India Company, vol. iii. p. 649. 
 ^ Ebn Haukal, p. 82. 
 
376 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 the Koureh Shapour of Ebn Haukal* The great province in which 
 it was included, had been particularly favoured by C Vitus, and his 
 dynasty : it was their native seat, and contained their palaces, their 
 treasures and their tombs. When their empire was overthrown, this 
 portion was still administered by a race of native princes,*f- who, after 
 an interval of five hundred years, revived their pretensions to the throne 
 of Cyrus,J and re-established in their ancient seats, the religion and 
 the empire of the Caianian Kings. The Princes of the house of Sassan, 
 who thus came forth from it as from the cradle of their strength, re- 
 garded it as the original and favourite appanage of their crown ; and 
 marked their peculiar connection with it by imposing their names on 
 its four districts, § a division which, amid all the revolutions of their 
 dominions, is even yet recognized. || Here, therefore, the revival of 
 the worship of fire, the great object of their dynasty, was established 
 more generally and more permanently, than in other parts of their 
 monarchy ; for in the tenth century, when the Mahomedans had been 
 three hundred years in possession of Persia, " no town or district of 
 " Fars was without a fire-temple ;"^[ and the division of Shapour in 
 particular, contained two at least of the four temples which Ebn 
 Haukal has particularised in the province.** 
 
 In this district accordingly, which was connected with the house of 
 
 * Ebn Haukal, p. 89. The Sabura of Golius ad Alfraganium, quoted by 
 Vincent ; Nearchus, 2d edition, p. 32.0. 
 
 + Strabo, lib. xv. p. 708. In De Sacy, " Memoires sur diverses Antiquities de la 
 " Perse," 1793, p. 34. 
 
 ^ Anct. Univ. Hist. xi. 66. Artaxerxes demanded from the Romans the cession of 
 all the provinces which Cyrus had possessed; but Sapor II. his descendant and suc- 
 cessor, advanced still higher pretensions, and claimed all the country to the river Sliymo??, 
 in Macedonia, the original boundary of Darius Hystaspes. 
 
 § Compare however the division of Ebn Haukal, p. 82. 
 
 |] Niebuhr says otherwise, torn. ii. p. 166; but Sir Harford Jones, who had better 
 opportunities of ascertaining the fact, asserts it. Vincent, p. 329, p. 485. 
 
 U Ebn Haukal, p. 85. 
 
 ** Ebn Haukal, p. 95. 
 
 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 3 
 
 Cyrus and of S ass an by so many ties, and in Susiana, which was 
 alike the favourite of both dynasties, we may expect to find the most 
 splendid remains of their greatness. Both provinces have been ex- 
 plored very imperfectly, as travellers have been confined to the regular 
 road ; and no European has enjoyed those opportunities of observa- 
 tion and enquiry, which a residence in the country alone can give. 
 Persepolis itself might probably have been unknown, if it had not been 
 passed in the line from Shiraz to Ispahan; but the ruins of Pasagarda,* 
 of Darabgherdy-f and of Jawr,% in Fars ; as well as those of Susa, of 
 Ahwaz, and of Shooster, in Khuzistan, are almost unknown. The 
 whole of the plain of Merdasht, the hollow Persis of the ancients, as 
 well as the part more immediately surrounding Persepolis, contained, 
 as Chard in believed, a continued succession of ruins; " Je sout- 
 " haiterois que quelque habile curieux allat passer un ete a Persepolis, 
 " a la decouverte de toutes les ruines de cette fameuse ville. Les 
 " gens du pays assurent que ces ruines s'etendent a plus de dix lieues a 
 " la ronde."§ 
 
 Shapour itself is an instance of the very limited knowledge of Persia 
 which we possess, beyond the immediate line of a common route. It 
 is situated only a very few miles from the road, yet it has been passed 
 by every traveller from T a vernier and The ve not, down to Scott 
 Waring, without a suspicion of its present existence. It certainly 
 retained a share at least, of its political importance after the fall of 
 the house of Sassan. It contained a mosque as well as a fire-temple, 
 in the time of Eban Haukal ;|| and probably like other great cities 
 
 * Fasa, See the text, p. 233. Pietro della Valle, torn. iii. 333. 
 
 + Darabgherd. See Ebn Haukal, p. 94, p. 133-4. Pietro della Valle, torn, 
 iii. 336, 571. Tavarnier, i. 395. 
 
 X Javr or Firuzabad. See the text, p. 234. Ebn Haukal, p. 101. See Otter, i. 
 191. Scott Waring was there, p. 106, but passed it with a very slight notice. 
 
 § Chardin, ii. p. 167. Le Brun was at Persepolis for three months ; but he seem* 
 to have confined himself principally to the ruins of the palace. 
 
 % Ebn Haukal, p, 90, p. 95. 
 
 3c 
 
378 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 of the East, suffered less from the first violence of the Arabian invasion, 
 than from the successive wars of native dynasties, and from the 
 gradual decay to which the declining population and exhausted wealth 
 of the empire consigned all the works of their former greatness. Still 
 Shapour appears to have survived these causes of desolation, and to 
 have deserved a place among the cities of Asia, at the end of the six- 
 teenth century, for it occurs in a table of latitudes and longitudes in 
 the Ayeen Acbaree.* From that time nothing more is known of it : 
 its position indeed is marked in a map of the year 1672 ;f and its 
 name, on the authority of Oriental geographers, is repeated by D'An- 
 ville as the capital of the district. But no European traveller had 
 described its actual state, or alluded to its history ; and the first account 
 of those sculptures, which yet render it an object of interest, was con- 
 veyed to us in a short note, added by Sir Harford Jones from his 
 own observations, to the second edition of Dr. Vincent's Nearchus, 
 p. 391. 
 
 The Eastern monarchs have often commemorated the great exploits 
 of their reigns by the foundations of cities. Cyrus is thus said to 
 have built Pasagai^dce, to celebrate his overthrow of the Median em- 
 pire; and Artaxerxes, on the spot where he had defeated Arta- 
 banus, the last King of the Parthians, raised the city of Jawr.% 
 Succeeding princes of his house, as Baharam§ and Shapour 
 D'Hulactaf,!! severally raised Kermanshah and Casvin, to immor- 
 talize particular acts of their history. It is probable therefore that 
 Shapour the first, who is described by the Orientals as the founder of 
 great cities,^[ and acknowledged by all to have built Shapour, imposed 
 
 * 86° 55' long. 30°. lat. Vol. iii. p. 53. 
 
 t " Sehabur" in a map of Persia in Buno's Cluverius, 1672> p. 547. 
 
 X EbnHaukal, p. 101. 
 
 «, De Sacy, p. 238-9- 
 
 \\ Ancient Universal History, xi. 159. 
 
 5 Mirrhond in De Sacy, p. 289. See the Ancient Univ. Hist. p. 151. voL.xi 
 
 

 SHAPOUR. 
 
 379 
 
 his own name upon that which he destined to record the most brilliant 
 of his successes : and that the city of Shapour accordingly, was the 
 memorial of the defeat, captivity, and servitude of the Emperor 
 Valerian. 
 
 The architect of such a work would naturally select his ornaments 
 from the subject in which his plan originated ; and the sculptures at 
 Shapour might therefore be supposed to contain some prominent allu- 
 sions to the Roman war. The triumphs of that war are almost unre- 
 membered in the history or the traditions of the Orientals ; and the 
 only records of the victories of Sapor, which are left in Persia, are the 
 sculptures on the rocks of Shapour and Nakshi Rust am : and though, 
 like every other work, of which nothing is known, they are referred by 
 the modern Persians to the fabulous exploits of Rust am the Her- 
 cules of their country, the internal evidence of their design is suffi- 
 cient to appropriate them to their real and historical objects. 
 
 That in fact the triumphs of the house of Sassan, are represented 
 both at Shapour and at Nakshi Rustam, can hardly be contested. 
 That in one of the sculptures, the royal figure on horseback is Sapor 
 himself, and that the Roman suppliant before him is the Emperor 
 Valerian, is probable almost from the first view of the delineations ; 
 is strengthened by the history of the spot where they are found; 
 and is confirmed by the identity of the principal figure here, with 
 one bearing an inscription in the name of Sapor,* at Nakshi 
 Rustam. 
 
 Such a subject would naturally be suggested to the artists of Sapor, 
 and while the Roman chariot and standard among the fragments, 
 and the Roman dress of the suppliant alike mark in the sculpture the 
 humiliation of Valerian, the Sassanian costume of the Prince on 
 
 * The figures are the same, not in detail, but in general circumstance. Both are en- 
 graved in this volume, plates x. xx. See the explanation of the inscription taken from 
 Niebuur, torn. ii. pi. xxvii. De Sacy, p. 31, &c. see also p, 69. 
 
 3c2 
 
380 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 horseback, the double diadem, and the very expression of his face., 
 (which is that of the medals ascribed to Sapor by Be Sacy,*) concur 
 in the designation, and supply the figure of the conqueror. 
 
 It may appear scarcely necessary to have added one line of explana- 
 tion, as the internal evidence of the sculpture itself may seem to fix 
 its history. But De SAcvf has considered all the subjects at Nakshi 
 Rustam, and consequently their duplicates at Shapour, as representing 
 one subject only, the conquest of the Parthians by Artaxerxes : and 
 on this theory he has regarded the suppliant as Artabanus, the last 
 King of the Parthians, and the victor as Artaxerxes. It is due to 
 such a man as De Sacy, to differ from him with hesitation, and to 
 state the grounds of difference fully. The engravings of Chardi*, 
 Le Brun, and Niebuhr, which alone were before De Sacy, are so 
 entirely unworthy of the originals, that the conclusion to which he 
 was led was almost unavoidable; but if he, who has done so much 
 with imperfect materials, had enjoyed the opportunity of examining the 
 full and characteristic distinctions preserved in Mr. Morier's Sketches, 
 he would have separated the subjects of the sculptures, into those 
 which commemorate the Parthian victories of Artaxerxes, and 
 those which were similarly destined to immortalise the Roman triumphs 
 of Sapor. 
 
 The Plate, No. X. may be assumed then to represent Sapor in the 
 act of receiving the submission of Valerian ; and that marked 
 No. XIX. to display him in his triumphal splendour. The fragments, 
 No. XII. contain some of his Roman spoils ; and the head to which' 
 
 on? m • ' m SUUe t0 his " Mem ° ire SUr les Medailles des Sassanides," 
 
 p. 803-10, assigns all the medals on Plate VI. to Sapor II. and those on Plate VIII to 
 feAPOR III. but the resemblance is so strong, (particularly in No. 3. of Plate VI.) between 
 the figure on the coin, and that in the sculpture No. X. that the identity can hardly be 
 doubted; and that the figure in the sculpture is Sapor I. may be inferred from the in- 
 scription at Nakshi Rustum, as well as from the general history. 
 
 t « Si l'on compare tous ces bas-reliefs, on sera porte a conjecturer qu'ils ne doivent 
 
 avoir tous qu'un mcrae objet." De Sacy, p. 66 ; see p. 69. 
 
 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 381 
 
 the text alludes, page 89, in describing the hall of audience of a great 
 King, is possibly that of Chosroes, King of Armenia* who was 
 murdered by Sapor, after an unavailing war of thirty years; and 
 whose fall therefore may be commemorated as an object of importance 
 in the series of the exploits of Sapor. 
 
 The Plates No. XV.+ and No. XIX. though probably from the 
 works of the same sculptor as the last, record the events of an earlier 
 date; and delineate in different views the contest for the crown of 
 Persia, which was waged between the last of the Parthian monarchs 
 and Arta xerxes, the founder of the house of Sassan. Of this 
 history, as it is connected with the sculptures at Shapour and Nakski 
 Rust am, it is sufficient to observe that, according to an inscription on 
 the spot, explained and confirmed by De Sacy, J Artaxerxes was 
 the son of Babec, the Satrap, or perhaps the hereditary Prince of 
 Persis Proper, under the empire of the Arsaces. — Artaxerxes was 
 the grandson of Sassan ;§ from whom, rather than from himself, his 
 dynasty, like that of the Seljukians from the grandfather of their 
 founder, || has been denominated. Others on the contrary, as the 
 Lubb al Tarikh in De SACY,f and the authorities on which Sir Wm. 
 Jones relied,** assume S ass an a shepherd, to be his father by the 
 daughter of Babec : and others again expand the whole genealogy 
 into romance. -f-f- VaillantJJ lavishes on Artaxerxes and his 
 birth, all the bitterness of reproach ; " infimse sortis vir, sordidissimo 
 " loco natus, sceleratus, injustissimus." So regularly however has 
 
 * Gibbon, i. 326, 4to. 
 
 + A fac-simile at Nakshi Rustam, p. 125-6, of that subject already noticed at Shapour. 
 
 $ P. 30, &c. 
 
 § De Sacy, p. 167. Ancient Universal History, xi. p. 146. 
 
 || Gibbon, vol. v. p. 654. Modern Univ. Hist. iv. p. 79. 
 
 f P. 32. See th£ Ancient Universal History, vol. xi. 
 
 ** History of Persia : Works, vol. v. p. 600. 
 
 +t De Sacy, p. 32-3 
 
 $ Vaillant, pref. p. vii. 389, 
 
382 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 this reproach followed success, that half the Eastern conquerors, as 
 the Bouide sultans, the house of Togrul Shah, Genghiz,Timur, the 
 Othman race, &c. have in their turns been represented as springing 
 from the lowest origin ; and a story, almost the same indeed ^s that 
 attached to the birth of Cyrus, has been recorded of Artaxerxes, 
 and forms a new point of resemblance in their history.* 
 
 That, however, the father of Sapor was not a man of very obscure 
 descent, may be inferred from the silence of Moses of Chorona, who in 
 the ninth or tenth century appears as the partizan of the Arsacides; 
 as well as from the positive assertion in the inscription^ at Nakshi 
 Rust am, that he was the son of a king ; an assertion which might have 
 been safely made in his name in a distant age, but which would 
 hardly have been hazarded by himself in a public and triumphal 
 record, if its fallacy had been familiar to all his contemporaries. 
 
 He assumed also in his own name, and that of his father, the divinity 
 which had been attached to their Kings by the ancient Persians, and 
 which was continued by the Parthian monarchs. The royalty how- 
 ever claimed by Artaxerxes in the inscription, was certainly 
 limited to his own native Persis, which in fact was always included in 
 the dominions of the Parthian Kings ; though the immediate rule may 
 have been resigned to a descendant of the Caianian family. The pro- 
 vinces of the monarchy were administered by eighteen Satraps, to 
 whom the Parthian Kings, like the Moguls, had gradually resigned 
 almost all the power of the empire ; and who, to justify in their nomi- 
 nal superior, the title of the King of Kings, severally assumed the regal 
 dignity themselves : as in the polity of modern Persia, according to 
 Niebuhr,J inferior officers are called Khans and Sultans, titles of 
 
 * Mirkhond in Db Sacy, p. 275. Ancient Universal History, xi. 14G. 
 t De Sacy, p. SO, &c. u»o? fog 7r»7raxou |3a<rtA£w?. See Moses of Chorons:, quoted 
 in De Sacy, p. 168. 
 | Niebuhr, ii. p. 83. 
 
 5 
 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 383 
 
 Majesty in other countries, to exalt the predominant power of their 
 universal ruler, the Padishah Buzurk. 
 
 Artaxerxes, like many other founders of Eastern dynasties 
 Genghiz,* Timur,^ Nadir Shah,;]: might ground his rebellion 
 on the plausible pretext of the ingratitude of his sovereign ; but while 
 he supplanted the Arsacides in the empire, he recognised their 
 superior interest in the affections of the people; and assumed their 
 epoch, their language, and their name ;§ that his subjects might regard 
 themselves rather as transferred to a different heir, than as subjugated 
 to a new and unconnected race of conquerors. He accordingly styles 
 himself Arsaces, in the coin preserved by Vaillant, and destined 
 probably for the Western and Mesopotamian provinces: and Sapor 
 continued the designation, though in the coins circulated in the 
 Eastern Persia, which De Sacy|| has decyphered, both Princes con- 
 firm to the corresponding genius of the country, relinquish the Greek 
 and restore the native language, revive the symbols of the worship of 
 fire, and connect themselves there also with the original prejudices of 
 the people. 
 
 Possibly the title thus adopted by the first Princes of the Sassa- 
 nides, was retained even to the middle of the fourth century; for 
 Ammianus Marcellinus describes the family on the throne of 
 Persia as Arsacides ;^[ an assertion which Gibbon seems to contra- 
 dict as very careless and inaccurate, but which may perhaps be 
 reconciled with the truth of history, by supposing, that even when the 
 ancient line of the Parthian Kings had ceased to reign for more than 
 one hundred years, the house of Sassan retained their title of 
 
 * Petit de la Croix, p. 37. 
 
 + Institutes, p. 25, 27. 
 
 % Frazer's Life, p. 81. of Artaxerxes, see Gibbon, vol.i. p. 201, 4to, 
 
 «j Vaillant. 
 
 j| De Sacy, Memoire surles Medailles des Sassanides, p. 166. 
 
 5 In Gibbon, vol. i. p. 238, 
 
384 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 Arsaces, which still favoured the national pride of a great part of 
 their people, and which was connected so long and so gloriously with 
 the general history of the empire. 
 
 All the details of these sculptures confirm their history, but it is 
 scarcely necessary to do more than allude to them. The lion held by a 
 chain in one of the scenes at Shapour, may be emblematical of a con- 
 quered nation ; or perhaps the literal historical representation of a 
 real auxiliary in the warfare of the Parthians ;* 
 
 " Et validos Parthi prae se misere liones, 
 
 " Cum ductoribus armatis, soevisque magistris." 
 
 Brissonius however adds to this quotation the question, " Sed 
 " quis veritatem a poeta ut ab historico exigit ?"f Notwithstanding 
 however the incredulity thus implied, and the ridicule of Luc i an, 
 who describes the Parthians as using dragons for the same purpose ;% 
 it is possible that this sculpture may be admitted as evidence of 
 the fact. 
 
 The dress of the royal characters may be similarly illustrated ; the 
 turreted tiara of Artabanus, is perhaps the nx^a mvpyurov described 
 by Strabo§; the tiara of Artaxerxes, which extends over the 
 cheeks, is thus mentioned by Juvenal,|| and thus represented in the 
 medals of Vaillant and De Sacy. The exuberant hair of Sapor 
 is likewise an historical fact : it was indeed the costume of the house 
 of Arsaces as well as of Sapor. This might be learnt from their 
 coins, but it is more familiar from the allusion of Vespasian, when he 
 
 * Lucretius, lib. v. These references are taken from Brissonius, " De Regio 
 " Persarum Apparatu." Edit. Lederlini, 1710. 
 t Brissonius, p. 732. 
 £ Lucian, in Brissonius. 
 (j Strabo, lib. xv. 
 H Juvenal, Sat. vi. 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 385 
 
 replied that the comet was not ominous to him, but regarded rather 
 the King of the Persians, " cui capillus effusior."* 
 
 The diadem of Persia was distinct from the tiara, and was itself 
 " quod omnibus notum non est/' said Brissonius, p. 68, " nihil aliud 
 " quam Candida fascia, qua Regum frons precingebatur." This he 
 proves from Lucian; but more decisively by the story of Favorinus, 
 who, when Pompey bound his leg up with a fillet, said, " it mattered 
 " not on which part of the body he bore the diadem/' Many of the 
 royal customs of ancient Persia are still observed in Abyssinia, as 
 Bruce has collected them; and the fillet is still worn as the diadem. 
 The ring then to which the text alludes, and which is described as such 
 by Niebuhr,J is certainly as De Sacy observed, § the diadem of 
 the disputed empire. In the coins of the Arsacides, this diadem,-^ 
 with flowing rediinicula, recurs frequently as presented to the 
 sovereign by the genius of a city,|| a Pallas ,f or a Victoriola ; ** 
 and in the Creek coins which the two first Princes of the Sassanides 
 struck for their Mesopotamian provinces, the same diadem is offered 
 to them.-f-f It is probable therefore that the object extended over 
 Sapor, by the figure in the air, is the same wreath or diadem, which in 
 his coins he is receiving; a Grecian image, which was perhaps 
 adopted by the Parthian monarchs from the Seleucidae, whom 
 they succeeded, and descended through the Arsacidae to Artax- 
 erxes and his son. 
 
 This image is therefore not sufficient to assign the work to Grecian 
 hands : the classical merit however of the whole sculptures renders it 
 
 * Suetonius, in Brissonius, p. 82. 
 t Bruce, vol. iii. p. 267, 276. 
 
 % Niebuhr, torn. ii. p. 98-134. Persepolis and Nakshi Rustam, &c. 
 § De Stucy, p. 67. 
 
 J) Vaillant, « Arsacidarum Imperium," p. 361, p. 366. 
 
 1 Pallas " Peculiaris dea Macedonum Pallas," p. 8. to Arsaces I. again, p. 16, 
 ** Victoriola to Artabanus I. p. 31. 
 tt ToArtaxerxes, p. 391, to Sapor, p. 394. 
 
 3d 
 
386 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 probable that they were executed by European artists, whom Sapor 
 may have taken in the train of Valerian, or those whom in his inva- 
 sion of Asia Minor, he may have carried off into the heart of his own 
 empire. Possibly by a refinement of cruelty he may have consigned 
 the erection of this memorial of their warfare, to his captive Vale- 
 ria n ; for a tradition at Shooster attributes to that monarch the su- 
 perin tendance of Sapor's other works at that city, and the construc- 
 tion of the edifice there, which was destined for his own prison. 
 
 Gib on,* as Milner has observed ,-j- is perhaps the only author 
 who ever doubted the nature of the treatment which Valerian expe- 
 rienced from Sapor. Less prejudiced minds might have drawn from 
 the fact, that these cruelties are noticed in a speech of the Emperor 
 Galerius, to the Persian Embassadors, X the better inference, that 
 almost in the very days of their execution, the perpetration of these 
 indignities was known to all the Roman world ; and those who recol- 
 lect the opportunities of knowing the Christian character which Vale- 
 »ian enjoyed, and the disgraces which crowded round him, when 
 against that knowledge he persecuted the Christians, may admit the 
 providential interposition of the Almighty in thus vindicating his 
 own cause on the oppressor, and in reversing a light and a prosperity so 
 abused. 
 
 Sapor is said to have placed his foot on the neck of Valerian 
 when he mounted his horse, and after a long captivity to have flayed 
 him alive. This treatment, however it may differ from the conduct 
 which a European conqueror might display to his captive, is not 
 sufficient to discredit the story ; and might be paralleled, in ignominy 
 at least, by many instances in the East. Genghiz Khan threw 
 
 * Vol. i. p. 331, 4to. 
 
 + Milner's History of the Church of Christ, vol. i. p. 427. p. 445. p. 478-9. Vale- 
 si an was destroyed by the treachery of Maori anus, (Gibbon i. 327) the very man, at 
 whose instigation he had perverted his power to persecute the Christians. 
 
 % Gibbon himself records this speech, vol. 1. p. 451. 
 
 5 
 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 387 
 
 the victuals from his table even to a woman, a captive queen, the 
 proudest monarch whom he had conquered* The Carmathian 
 Prince who advanced against Bagdad, tied the Lieutenant of the 
 Caliph Moctadi with his dogs :f and the iron cage of Timour, 
 (which is doubted, only because Timour docs not himself record it) 
 is a familiar illustration ; of which the idea was not confined to that in- 
 stance, for Badur, King of Cambay, prepared a cage to convey one 
 of the Portuguese heroes to the Great Turk.J But there is a nearer 
 precedent : the Persian monarchs have the unrivalled honour of alone 
 taking two Roman Emperors; and Alp Arslan, who enjoyed the 
 fortune of Sapor, remembered perhaps his treatment of his prisoner; 
 and though in his subsequent conduct he resembles our own Black 
 Prince, and forms a striking contrast to the sequel of Sapor's conduct, 
 yet, when his captive first appeared before him, he is said to have 
 planted his foot o»n the neck of the Emperor.^ 
 
 The dynasty o,f the Sassanides, though the commencement of the 
 historical age of Persia ;|| and as such comparatively less obscure in 
 Oriental writers, than the preceding period,^[ is yet, as D'Herbelot 
 remarked,** involved in great difficulties. The darkness of the inter- 
 mediate age from the death of Alexander to the accession of the 
 house of Arsaces, and through the greatness of the Parthian empire, 
 is confined principally to the East ; and from the hereditary connection 
 of the Seleucidje, and their successors with the Greeks of Asia, is 
 
 * Petit de la Croix, Life of Genghiz, p. 976. 
 t Gibbon, vol. v. 4to. p. 451. 
 
 % A.D. 1537. Faria " Asia Portuguesa" by Stevens, vol. i. p. 405. 
 § Gibbon, vol. v. p. 664. 
 
 || De Sacy, pref. p. v. De Guignes. MSS. of the King of France, ii. 
 English Edit. Gibbon, i. 4to. p. 256. 
 
 H Ancient Universal History, vol. xi. p. 142, &c. 
 ** D'Herbelot, inSirWM. Ouselev's Epitome. 
 
 3 D 2 
 
 p. 140. 
 
c388 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 relieved by the Western authorities, whose testimonies have been* 
 collected with so much research by Vaillant, and confirmed by the 
 medals of the Arsacidte. But this light is lost in the middle of the 
 third century ; nor perhaps could a more difficult portion of ancient 
 history be selected than the succeeding dynasty, a period nevertheless 
 probably the most brilliant, in the foreign relations of Persia, of any 
 since the extinction of the sovereignty of Darius, and at the same 
 time the most fortunate in the internal prosperity and resources of the 
 empire. The task was suggested to Vaillant,* who had so ably 
 executed the Parthian annals, but he resigned it to the adviser, and it 
 was left undone. 
 
 The deficiencies of European materials are not supplied by Oriental 
 authorities. The value of the Mahomedan accounts of ancient Persia, 
 maybe estimated by their omission of the success of Sapor, the most 
 splendid in the whole period of which they treat. Gibbon -f has 
 already remarked from D'Herbelot, that the modern Persians 
 know nothing of the capture of a Roman Emperor ; and it may be 
 added, that though it appears from Mr. Morier, p. 201, that a 
 Persian of the present day was acquainted with the event, yet neither 
 Mirkhond,:]: nor Khondemir,§ nor the Tarikh published by Sir 
 Wm. Ouseley, allude to it. Whatever then may be the deficiencies 
 or even the contradictions of the Greek historians in writing on the 
 affairs of Persia, they are still probably the best authorities on which we 
 can rely. The contemporary classics possess no one disadvantage, which 
 is not shared by the later Mahomedans ; they are alike writing on the 
 history of a people, whom the Greeks hated as enemies, and whom the 
 Mussulmans despised as infidels, and whose language was probably 
 
 * Vaillant, Arsac: Imperium, p. 389. 
 
 + Gibbon, vol. i. 4to. p. 331. 
 
 | Mirkhond, in De Sacy, p. 282-90. 
 
 S Khondemir, in Ancient Universal History, vol. xi. p. 151. 
 
 
SHAPOUR, 
 
 389 
 
 equally unknown to both ; but to the Greek authors these defects 
 were in a certain degree qualified by their comparative nearness to the 
 events which they recorded ; while the Mussulmans, in treating of the 
 history before the time of Mahomed, were writing the annals of a 
 conquered and contemned race, in an age when its language, polity, 
 and religion were alike forgotten. It is therefore astonishing that 
 De Sacy should have selected Mirkhond, an author of this class, to 
 accompany his own able memoirs on the antiquities of Persia. What- 
 ever may be the relative superiority of Mirkhond to other Oriental 
 annalists, the value of his authority is in itself very low, and is suffi- 
 ciently depreciated by the internal evidence of his own work. He 
 begins his account of the Sassanian kings by saying that the Messiah 
 was born in the reign of Ardeshir or Artaxerxes, the first Prince of 
 that house, whose reign which did not commence till the two hundred 
 and twenty-sixth year after Christ* He continues, that Ardeshir 
 received a message from the Messiah, and secretly professed his 
 religion. Independently of the gross fabulousness of the chronology, 
 the story itself is totally abhorrent to every other evidence, by which it 
 is clear that Ardeshir, so far from professing or favouring a foreign 
 religion, regarded the revival of the native worship as the glory of his 
 reign ; and combined in one re-establishment the religion and the 
 empire of ancient Persia.-f- 
 
 The idle tale of the birth of his son Sapor, J is another proof of the 
 manner in which the imagination of an Eastern historian has supplied 
 the defects of his materials ; if indeed it be not derived from the 
 story of Astyages in Herodotus. Without discussing the proba- 
 bility of the fact or the accuracy of the chronology, it is impossible to 
 
 * Mirkhond, in De Sacy, p. 273. 
 
 + De Sacy, p. 42. A. C. 220, according to Vaillant : Tab. Chronol, 
 
 J Mirkhond, p. 282-6. 
 
390 
 
 SHAPOUR. 
 
 conceive that an author could learn so much without knowing more ; 
 and that at the interval of one thousand two hundred years he could 
 have ascertained the most private history of an Eastern Prince, when 
 he is ignorant of his public exploits; or that he could have given a 
 genuine account of Sapor from his birth to his death, when he never 
 once alludes to the Romans, or notices, however transiently, the most 
 celebrated event in the life of his hero, and in the history of his 
 country. 
 
 66 
 
 a 
 (.(. 
 a 
 a 
 a 
 a 
 « 
 a 
 
 M 
 
 4t 
 
 a 
 a 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 SECOND VISIT TO SHAPOUR, 
 
 APRIL, 1811. 
 
 " We proceeded over the plain to the Southward and Westward, 
 to see what a peasant called the Kaleh or Castle, and the Mesjed 
 or Mosque, which are large conspicuous buildings seen from 
 almost all parts of the plain. These we found to be Moham- 
 medan structures, excepting part of an ancient wall or buttress, 
 and a column, with a square fallen capital, that are to be seen 
 in the former, and of the same age as the edifices at Shapour. In 
 the square of this ruined castle we found some little black tents 
 of the wandering tribes ; from the good folks of which we got 
 some dong or butter-milk, of which they drink large quantities 
 at this season. We surprised them by asking them if they had 
 any Poul Kadeim or ancient money ; to which they answered, 
 very ingenuously, that they had neither new nor old. The fact 
 is, that old coins are more frequently found amongst these sort 
 of people than amongst any other; for if they find any, the 
 favourite wife generally has them suspended with her other trinkets, 
 in a necklace around her neck. When old coins or money out 
 
 
SHAPOUR. 
 
 391 
 
 of use fall into the hands of town's people, traders, shopkeepers, 
 or such like, they generally melt it down immediately, and get 
 it recoined. In all our researches for old coins, we have been 
 unsuccessful, and it has only been by the greatest chance that we 
 have now and then got a Sassanian or an Arsacian medal. A man 
 brought what he called a collection of old coins to the Embassador : 
 they consisted of a Reaal of the age of Shah Abbas, a Cuffic piece 
 of money, a gold coin of the worst time of the middle ages, and an 
 English halfpenny." 
 

 
 
NOTES. 
 
 Chatters, p. 37. — TlIE Shotters of Fryer; the Shatirs ofHANWAY. Chardin gives a 
 long and curious account of a display, which he calls " la fete du Chater, ou valet du pied 
 " au Roi." Voyages, torn. ii. 46, edit. 1711. The King's Chafers dVessed richly but differ- 
 ently, (car en Perse on ne sait ce que c'est de Livree,) were the masters of the feast. 
 Those who are superior in their profession can dance well ; an occupation indeed which, in 
 the East, is considered so little suitable to persons of a higher rank and character, that a 
 Persian who was in Paris in the minority of Louis XIV. and saw the young King dancing, 
 exclaimed, "c'est un excellent Chater." The prize of the exploit recorded by ChaRDtN, 
 was the honour of being admitted the chief of the Chafers of the royal household ; and the 
 effort was, between the rising and the setting of the sun, to take up twelve arrows 
 singly from a tower at the distance of a league and a half (French), and return with each to 
 the place of starting : in this manner the Chater run thirty-six leagues in fourteen hours. 
 Nevertheless, says Chardin, this was not equal to a feat still remembered, in which the 
 twelve arrows were taken up in twelve hours. T a vernier was present at the greater 
 performance to which Chardin alludes. See his voyages, torn. i. p. 438-40. 
 
 Geography of Persia, p. 48. — Olivier (torn. v. c. vii.) describes Persia as a great 
 table-land, supported on every side by high mountains. The space thus enclosed is a 
 depressed level, as the courses of the rivers prove ; which, according to a former remark of 
 of D'An ville, never penetrate through the mountains to the sea, but stagnate or evaporate 
 in deserts of sand. (Vincent's Nearehus.) Still its absolute elevation is very great: 
 at Shireizy in 29° 36', there is much snow in January and February, though it is half a 
 degree more to the south than Cairo; and Ispahan is too cold for the orange tree, though 
 it grows well at Mossul, four degrees more to the north, and twice as far from the sea : 
 and in Mazandcran, which is in a much higher latitude, but on a level considerably below 
 the table land of Persia, the sugar cane, which will not grow at Shiraz, comes to maturity 
 
 3e 
 
394 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 four months sooner than in the West Indies, Olivier, torn. v. p. 218, 233. On the capa- 
 bility of Persia to supply Russia with sugar and cotton, see Olivier, p. 336. 
 
 Grampus, possibly the whale of Arm an, p. 50.] — The whales in the Indian ocean have 
 been celebrated from the time of Pliny; and Sir Harford Jones, in a note to Vin- 
 cent's Nearchus, mentions them high up in the Persian Gulph : it is probable there- 
 fore that the bones, of which the houses on the coast were constructed, were those of 
 real whales. 
 
 Kharrack, p. 52.] — The island of Kharrack at one time excited considerable interest ; 
 when it was seized and fortified by the Baron Kniphausen. The motives of his enterprise 
 are very unimportant, although it may be added, that the heroical character in which he 
 appears in Ives, as the founder of a new settlement, is somewhat reduced in the " Free 
 " Merchants' Letters," of Joseph Price, p. 172. It is sufficient that even in its first 
 days this colony was dependant on a neighbouring island (Corgo), and the main land of 
 Persia for its provisions. Niebuhr indeed relates the singular and fatal stratagem con- 
 nected with this supply. The Sheik of Bushire, who furnished these necessaries to 
 Kharrack* was at war with the Sheik of Bunder-righ, and as the Dutch were alike involved 
 in the hostilities, the communications between the island and Bushirc were often carried 
 on by night. The Sheik of Bushire profited by this circumstance ; and putting poultry into 
 two armed ships, sent them against two galvettes, laid up under the walls of the citadel : 
 " A l'approche de l'isle on secuoit les cages pour faire crier les poules, et la sentinelle 
 " Hollandoise entandant ces cris de la volaille crut que c'etoit les vaisseaux d'Abu 
 " schahr (Bushire), and qu'il etoit inutile d'eveiller les autres matelots." Descr. del 
 Arabia, p. 280. This success was soon followed up, and the Dutch were expelled from 
 the island. Ives recommended to our government the possession of Kharrack. Voyage, 
 p. 226: but independently of the precariousness of its supplies, Niebuhr mentions the 
 mortality among the Europeans there, though he adds indeed, that they died " moins pas 
 " l'air mal sain de l'isle, que pas leur maniere de vivre," p. 281. It was an early object of 
 the French government. By a treaty signed at Paris, and negociated by M. Pyrault at 
 Bassora, Ke rim Khan, the Regent of Persia, engaged to cede Kharrack; but, the sup- 
 pression of the French East India Company intervened, and the object was neglected. It 
 was again surrendered by the treaty of 1808, and in the intermediate time, when he was 
 himself sent by the Directory as a secret agent, Olivier observes, that the Persian 
 government would have repeated the cession. His conclusion is remarkable ; the object 
 would have been advantageous to us, says he, " si nous avions voulu serieusement nous 
 " etablir en Egypte ; si de la nous avions voulu porter nos vues de commerce sur le golfe 
 " Persique, sur Bassora, sur Bagdad; si nous avions voulu reprendre un commerce actif 
 ,,( avec l'lnde; si nous avions voulu ouvrir des communications entre l'isle de France, 
 u Mascate, and Bassora." Tom. v. p. 157. 
 
 Ormuz, p. 52.]— When Olivier, was in Persia, the Imaum of Muscat was negotiating 
 3 
 
 
 ■I 
 
NOTES. 
 
 395 
 
 with the Persian government the cession of Ormuz to him. Tom. v. p. 157. That island 
 as well as Gombroon, is now in his possession; though he accounts for the customs to the 
 King of Persia, 
 
 Pearls, p. 55.] — A belief in the influence of the rain on the formation of pearls, which 
 Niebuhr mentions as prevalent among the Arabs in his own days, (Descr. de l'Arabie) 
 and among their ancestors in the time of Benjamin of Tudela, six hundred years ago, may 
 be traced up clearly to the time of Pliny, if not much earlier. (Lib. ix. c. xxxv. see 
 c. li. and the note from Aristotle.) The Apologue of Sadi is a beautiful illustration 
 of the Eastern opinion. Bruce says, " it is observed that pearls are always the most 
 " beautiful in those places of the sea, where a quantity of fresh water falls. Thus in the 
 «' Red Sea," &c. (vol. v. p. 226, app.) and it may be added, though the facts prove little 
 without knowing the relative positions, that Bahrein, one of the most fertile pearl banks 
 in the world, is likewise celebrated for the most extensive submarine springs of fresh 
 water. See on those springs, Ives's Voyage. Niebuhr, p. 286. See also Teixeira 
 in Mod. Univ. Hist. vi. 80. Hole in his curious illustration ofSiNDBAD, regards these 
 springs as the origin of " the river of fresh water that issued from the sea." Sixth Voyage. 
 
 Horses, Src. p. 63.~] — The custom of tying horses by the leg in the stable, is traced in 
 Persia even to the time of Xenophon. Anab. lib. iii. c. 245. At the introduction of the 
 Russian Embassador to Shah Hussein, the horses of the King of Persia were dis- 
 played in state as the procession passed : " they were all tied to a rope fixed to the ground 
 " at the extremities by a stake of gold, near which lay a mallet of the same metal for 
 " driving it. According to the custom of Persia the hind feet also were fastened to a rope, 
 w to prevent kicking." Bell, vol. i. p. 100. 
 
 Elauts, p. 77.] — The wandering tribes have in every age constituted a consider- 
 able portion of the population of the Persian and Turkish Empires. In Asia 
 Minor they are called Turcomans; in Assyria and Armenia, Curds; in Irak and Fars, 
 Elauts ; the Vloches of Herbert, p. 129, (by some considered the Eluths or Oigurs.J 
 Their general character is the same ; and they have continued to follow the same heredi- 
 tary occupations with unbroken regularity. Ebn Haukal estimates the numbers included 
 in their zems or tribes in Fars alone at five hundred thousand families, p. S3. 
 
 Lion on the tomb, at Derees, p. 85; see also, p. 94, &c] — On the meaning of such an em- 
 blem, see Niebuhr's Doubt in his chapter on Shiraz, torn. ii. 
 
 Bazar-a- Vakeel, p. 100.] — Scott Waring reckons the length of this great work of 
 Kerim Khan, at half a mile! Franklin, at a quarter of a mile, p. 58$ and a later 
 authority at between seven and eight hundred yards. 
 
 3 e 2 
 
396 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 P. 104.]— The Story of Cheik Chenan, may remind the reader of the Lay of 
 Aristote. 
 
 The Bend-emir, p. 124.] — The Prince, from whose dyke thrown across it, the Bend- 
 emir is asserted to have taken its name, is sometimes said to be Emir Azad a Dowlah 
 one of the Buiya Sultans; and as the river occurs in the route of Barbaro, 1472, within 
 seventy years after the reign of Timur, as the " Bindamyr," it is probable that it acquired 
 that name from the earlier Prince. On the word Bund, see a note in Vincent's Periplus, 
 p. 157; and Moor's Female Infanticide, p. 110, &c. 
 
 Persepolis, p. 129.] — The first account of Chehel Minor, that was brought to Europe 
 after the revival of learning, occurs in the travels of Josaphat Barbaro, Embassador 
 from the State of Venice to the Prince whom he calls Assambbi, (who may be recognised 
 indeed as the " Usan Cassanes," " of some called Asymbeius," in Knolles, p. 409;) 
 but who is better known as the Uzun Hassan or Cassan of D Herbelot. The rarity of 
 the volume in which these travels are contained may justify the insertion of an extract. 
 Aldus, 1543. Josaphat Barbaro does not suspect that he is describing the Persepolis 
 of the Classics; and labours therefore to find in the sculptures at Chehil Minor, something 
 which may rather accord with the Hebrew origin assigned to it by one of the traditions of 
 the country. In the bridge leading over the Bend-emir he had already discovered a work 
 of Solomon; and he proceeds to point out, among the representations on the rocks, the 
 figure of Solomon himself. Again, instead of Rustam, the Hercules of Persia, or 
 rather instead of the real heroes, Artaxerxes and Sapor, whom that name has sup- 
 planted at Persepolis, Josaphat Barbaro perceives in a colossal image on horseback, 
 the figure of Samson. The being in the air, which some have conceived to be the soul of 
 a departed monarch, and which recurs in the engravings of the tombs by Le Brun and 
 Chardin, is thus described : " Sopra di tutte e una figura simile a quelle nostre che 
 <{ noi figuriamo Dio padre in uno tondo ; laqual ha uno tondo per raano, e sotto laqual 
 Ci sono altre figure piccole," fol. 51.6. He continues ; among the lesser figures there is one, 
 who has on his head a Pope's mitre, " una mitria di Papa ;" and has his hands extended, 
 apparently as if he would give his benediction to those beneath him, who are looking up 
 to him in fixed expectation of the said blessing. Near Samson are several other figures 
 dressed in the French mode, " alia Francese," and having longhair. M. I. The descrip- 
 tion is curious, and characteristic of the age; but even in the seventeenth century, 
 Tavern i er in the same manner fancied that he saw in the Sassanian sculptures at Ker- 
 manshah, priests, surplices, and censers, torn. i. 316. This indeed was almost the earliest 
 account that had been given of the spot ; and therefore, this error is more excusable. 
 But now, when so much has been written on the subject, (whether the sculptures be the 
 works of Semihamis or of the Sassanian Kings?) and more particularly when De Sacy 
 has definitively proved by the inscriptions, that the figures are connected with the history 
 of the latter Princes of the house of Sassan ; we may be surprised that M. de Gardanne 
 
 Mtitf fctiMittfe^^tti 
 
NOTES. 
 
 397 
 
 should have overlooked their design ; and instead of recognising an object that had been 
 illustrated by his countryman with so much learning, should pass it in his journal with the 
 single remark : " Plus loin sur un rocher eleve, on voit une croix et les douze Apotret 
 sculptes." p. 83. 
 
 Every nation has some proverbial expression of number, and " forty" seems popular in the 
 East. Thus the palace of Ispahan is the Chehil Sitoon / and another built in imitation of 
 it, at Moorshedabad, is called by the same name. Seir Mutagherin, i. 301. Chehil minar 
 therefore signifies an indefinite number of pillars, whether more or less than forty ; but 
 even with all the allowance, which this expression may require, it is probable that in the 
 time of Sadi, six hundred years ago, the pillars standing at Persepolis amounted really to 
 forty. Chardin, torn. iii. 138. The remains at Persepolis are designated by another still 
 more comprehensive form, " Hazar Sitoon" the one thousand columns. De Sacy, 
 p. 1. If the fragment engraved in the Archceologia, from the original transmitted by 
 Richard Strachey, Esq. to his father, be really of the size of that original, as the notice 
 affirms, and if it formed part of the series of sculptures, we may thence learn the average 
 proportions of the subjects at Persepolis. Archceol. xiv. app. 282. But Le Brun sent 
 over an entire figure from the reliefs ; see the close of his work. 
 
 Ispahan, p. 159.]— Ispahan had been for ages one of the greatest cities of the East, and 
 was possibly the Aspa and Aspadana of the ancients. In 1472 it contained one hundred 
 and fifty thousand souls ; a number which, according to Barbaro, was but the sixth of 
 its former population. It had declined in political importance till Shah Abbas trans- 
 ferred thither the seat of Empire from Casvin. It rose rapidly to a second greatness : in 
 extent it almost covered the plain. It was itself twenty-four miles in circumference, and 
 according to Chardin, " a dix lieues a la ronde, on comptait quinze cents villages." 
 Tom. iii. 83. Chardin thought its population equal to that of London, and fixed it at 
 six hundred thousand souls. T a vernier, almost at the same time, comparing it with 
 Paris, says, it has but one-tenth of the population. (See on the relative population of 
 Paris, London, and Rhages, Sir Wm. Petty's Essay.) Tavernier is clearly wrong, 
 and certainly much more inaccurate than the other extreme of one million and one 
 hundred thousand, stated by the European merchants in Ispahan. Yet there is an error 
 probably in both the larger estimates. The number of houses in Chardin's estimate is 
 a fixed standard, thirty-eight thousand : at fifteen in a house, the amount would not equal 
 tlie population which he assigns as the lowest number; and it would require more than 
 twenty-eight in a house, to justify the larger calculation. Olivier indeed remarks on 
 another occasion, torn. v. 163, that " on doint compter en Perse au moins 7 ou 8 
 " Persans par maisons;" but though this is much higher than the average of Europe, and 
 much higher than Mr. Morier has calculated throughout his travels, (with the single 
 exception of Bushire), it will not give much above half the estimate of Chardin. It may 
 perhaps be observed that the numbers in Ispahan during the Affghan siege, and which are 
 variously stated from seven hundred thousand to a million, will confirm the general 
 accuracy of the former statement ; but it should be recollected, that the amount on that 
 
NOTES. 
 
 occasion was swelled by the fugitives from the whole country. Olivier reckoned the 
 inhabitants of Ispahan in his days at fifty thousand; its habitable circumference was 
 reduced to a diameter of two miles ; and he was riding for half an hour through the ruins 
 which surrounded it. Tom. v. 175, 179. Gardanne hears that the ruins extend for 
 a march of more than four hours, p. 70. A later statement indeed gives the present 
 population at two hundred and fifty thousand. But even in the decay in which Olivier 
 found it, it retained sufficient evidences of original greatness to excite the liveliest sensa- 
 tions : " Tout ce que nous vimes, tout ce qu'on nous dit, tout ce que nous supposames 
 " nous en donna la plus grande idee : tout nous persuada qu'elle fut sous les Sophis une 
 " des plus belles, des plus riches, des plus peuplces de l'Asie." P. 180. 
 
 Shah Abbas drinking zoine,p. 165.] — Gibbon says, that " in every age the wines of 
 " Shiraz have triumphed over the laws of Mahomed." In fact however, the use of 
 spirituous liquors in general has depended, in Persia as in Turkey and other Mahomedan 
 countries, less on the precepts of the Koran, than on the will and character of the reigning 
 Prince. Pietro della Valle gives a curious account of the alternations in the use of 
 inebriating liquors, which the difference in the individual habits of the Sovereign produced 
 in his day in the court of Persia : and Tournefort remarks the same effect in Georgia; 
 ** of all nations the greatest wine drinkers." Tom. ii. lettre vi. Eastern monarchs indeed, 
 in this as in other points, have considered themselves unfettered by the prohibitions of the 
 Koran: "Kings are subject fo no law;"—" Whatever they do, they commit no sin," 
 were the maxims by which Shah Hussein, the last of the Seffis, was seduced into 
 drunkenness. (Mod. Univ. Hist. vi. p. 22.) The exclusive prerogatives of an absolute 
 Prince were, however, best exemplified in Hindostan. Jehangeer, as we learn from his 
 own commentaries, was accustomed to drink of the strongest spirits, a quantity equal in 
 weight to ten seers a day ; while (as Peter the Great, and the rising Peter of the 
 South Seas, Tamahama, in Turn bull's Voyage, have done since) he issued as a standing 
 regulation of his government, an order for the prohibition of spirituous liquors, and every 
 thing else of an intoxicating nature, throughout the whole kingdom, " notwithstanding 
 " that I had myself," he adds, " from the age of eighteen to thirty-eight, been constantly 
 " addicted to them." Extracts by James Anderson, from the Toozuke Jehangeer, Asiat. 
 Miscell. vol. ii. p. 77. To evade the prohibition of wine, the Orientals have had recourse 
 to compositions infinitely more inebriating: these are "the mixed wine," " the strong 
 "drink mingled of the Scriptures;" see Lowth's Isaiah, p. 12-13, p. 231, &c. See a 
 Chapter of K^empfer, fasc. iii. obs. 15. The liquor thus substituted in Persia is the 
 Cocnos of Della Valle. Abbas the First, when he drank wine, drank it as in the text, 
 publicly: for a purpose, as a contemporary traveller observes, like that of Agathocles 
 in Diodorus of discovering the real character of his guests. Della Valle, torn. ii. 
 341. See the entertainment in Herbert, p. 171: "Most friendly Abbas puld our 
 " Ambassador downe, seated him close to his side, smiling to see he could not sett (after 
 " the Asiatique sort) crosse-legd, and calling for a bowl of wine, dronke his Master's 
 « health, at which the Ambassador uncoverd his head ; and to complement beyond all 
 
NOTES. 
 
 399 
 
 "expectation the Potshaugh," (the Padishah) " puld of his turbant; by discovering his 
 " bald head, symbolising his affection ; and after an houres merriment departed." This 
 object of Abbas was again similarly attempted by Shah Suleyman. Mod. Univ. Hist, 
 vol. vi. 16. Shah Seffi in a caprice chose to prohibit tobacco, and executed two 
 foreign merchants for disobeying the order, as Sultan Murad did in Turkey for the same 
 offence. Rycaut, p. 59; see p. 43, against wine. Shah Seffi himself drank to excess; 
 but having in a fit of intoxication killed one of his wives, he published a mandate through 
 all his dominions, that no one should drink wine; and that the Governors should stave all 
 the casks and spill the liquor wherever it was found. Mod. Univ. Hist. vol. v. p. 471-2, 
 p. 475. Shah Hussein, vol. vi. 21, prohibited wine by his first act, though he afterwards 
 was tempted to indulge in it ; but when Bell was in Persia, the King was still sober and 
 devout, and drank no wine, which in consequence was not used by his court. Bell, i. 107, 
 see p. 116. Nadir Shah and Kerim Khan permitted the use of wine: but Aga* 
 Mahomed, " cruel, feroce au dela de toute expression, faisait ouvrir le ventre a ceux 
 " de ces sujets Musulmans qui etaient accuses de boire du vin." Olivier, torn. v. p. 136. 
 
 Monrtchekourd, p. 176.] — The difficulty of ascertaining a fact in the ancient history of 
 Persia, may be estimated by the contradictions in a very modern period, in an event of 
 extreme importance, and in the relations of contemporary authors. The battle of 
 Mourtchekourd, which decided the fate of Persia, was fought, according to Jones's Life 
 of Nadir, on the 13th November, 1728. Otter, who accompanied an Embassy to 
 Nadir, says November, 1730. Gardanne, the French Consul, who was at Ispahan at 
 the time, says November, 1729. See Olivier, vol. v. p. 375. 
 
 P. 186.] — Of the King of Persia's own poems, see a specimen in Scott Waring. 
 See also Gardanne, p. 76. 
 
 Lion and Bear, p. 187.] — In Bell's time, there were two lions at the court of Persia, 
 who couched to the Embassador as he passed, p. 100-1. When the Greek Embassador 
 was presented to the Caliph Moctader, A. D. 917, " one hundred lions were brought 
 out, with a keeper to each lion." Gibbon, 4to. v. p. 420. 
 
 Introduction, p. 128.] — Bell's description is striking, " at our entry into the hall, we 
 " were stopped about three minutes at the first fountain, in order to raise the greater 
 " respect; the pipes were contrived to play so high, that the water fell into the basin like 
 " thick rain. Nothing could be distinguished for some time ; and the Schach himself 
 " appeared as in a fog. While we moved forward, every thing was as still as death." 
 vol. i. p. 103. 
 
 Zein Labadeen, p. 176.] — The Zain Labadeen, called in the text the brother of 
 Hossein, is probably Ali, his youngest son, called afterwards Zein Alab'beddin, a the 
 " ornament of the religious." Mod. Univ. Hist. vol. ii. p. 101. Franklin, p. 180. 
 
400 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 Punishment of Theft, p. 204.] — This was a punishment inflicted by the Emperor 
 Aurelian. Gibbon, i. p. 355. 
 
 P. 217.] — Gardanne complains in the same manner of the publicity of Persian diplo- 
 macy. " Les Gardes, les Secretaires, les curieux sont presens. Nous avons souvent 
 " demandc de les faire eloigner, mais les Ministres gardent toujours du monde. On ne 
 " peut pas rester seul avec eux." Journal, p. 54. 
 
 Teheran, p. 224.] — It is interesting to trace the progress of a capital. At about the 
 same distance from Rhages, (at which the present city of Teheran may be placed from the 
 remains of Rey) appears the town of Tahora, in the Theodosian tables: a sufficient pre- 
 sumption that Teheran itself had an original and independant existence, and did not rise 
 only from the ruins of the greater metropolis. Its continuance as a contemporary city 
 cannot now be traced distinctly ; it may indeed have borne a different name in Eastern 
 geography, as it is the Teheran or Cherijar of Tavernier* It re-appears however under 
 its present name in the journey of the Castilian Embassadors to Timur, at a period when 
 the greatness of Rey was still very considerable. At the end of two centuries, Pietro 
 dell a Valle re-visited it. He calls it the city of planes; torn. ii. 390 : the soil is pro- 
 bably particularly adopted to the tree; for Olivier mentions one in the neighbourhood 
 that measured round an excrescence at the root, seventy feet ; torn. v. p. 102. About the 
 same time with Della Valle, Herbert described it fully. It is the Tyroan of his 
 travels. Tavern ier notices it more perhaps from the materials of others than from his 
 own observation, torn. i. 313: and Ch a rdin speaks of it only as " petite ville." Tom. ii. 
 p. 120. Its name occurs with scarcely a line of comment, in a route given by Han way, 
 vol. i. ; and though it was a place of some interest in the reign of Nadir, its actual state 
 cannot be collected with any certainty till the accession of the present dynasty. It had 
 long indeed been the capital of a province ; and its name had been frequently connected 
 with objects of importance in the history of the last two centuries; yet it owes its more 
 immediate pre-eminence to the events of the last few years. It had been so nrrach de- 
 stroyed by the Affghans, (when after the battle of Salmanabad they invested it, in the hope 
 of seizing Shah Thamas, who had retired thither) that Aga Mahomed, the late King, 
 may be considered as almost its second founder. Its nearness to his own tribe and province ; 
 the facilities of raising instantaneously from the wandering tribes around it a large force of 
 cavalry ; and its central situation between the general resources of his empire and the 
 more exposed frontiers, combined to justify his choice of Teheran as the capital of Persia. 
 It has risen rapidly. In 1797 Olivier describes it as little more than two miles in cir- 
 cumference, and of the whole area the palace occupied more than one-fourth. Tom. v. 
 p. 89. In 1809, it is stated to be between four and a half and five miles round the walls. 
 The population, according to Olivier, even with all the encouragement which Aga Ma- 
 homed afforded to settlers, and including his own household of three thousand persons, 
 amounted in 1797 to only fifteen thousand persons. Gardanne describes it, ten years after- 
 wards, as having more than fifty thousand inhabitants during the winter; though he notices 
 
NOTES. 
 
 401 
 
 the almost total desertion of the city during the heats of summer. Journal, &c. p. 55. 
 In one of Mr. Morier's routes in the Appendix, Teheran is represented as containing 
 twelve thousand houses, a better estimate of its size than the number of inhabitants. 
 
 Ark, p. 225.] — Ark is obviously, Arx. 
 
 Impress, p. 225.] — This impress was by no means pecular to Persia. Many instances 
 might be given from our own history down to the reign of Elizabeth : but it is sufficient 
 to refer to those connected with the subject in the text. Henry VI. pressed minstrels 
 "in solatium regis;" almost the very act of the King of Persia. Edward VI. thus 
 supplied his choir, (Barrington on the Statutes, p. 337) ; and in the reign of Eliza- 
 beth, under one of the commissions to take up all singing children for the use of the Queen's 
 chapel, Tusser, the author of the Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry, was impressed. 
 See Lysons's Environs of London, vol i. p. 92. 
 
 " Thence for my voice, I must no choice, 
 " Away of force, like posting horse 
 " For sundry men, had placards then, 
 " Such child to take,—" 
 
 Female Officers, p. 225. — Seradj ed Dowlah had a female guard of Calmucks, 
 Tartars, Georgians, Negroes and Abyssinians. ( Seir Mutagherin, vol. i. p. 146.) Nas- 
 sureddeen peopled a city entirely with women ; all the officers being of that sex. He is 
 said to have had fifteen thousand women. (Gladwin, Hist, of Indostan, vol. i. p. 114.) 
 It is very possible that some such caprice of an Oriental despot may have given rise to the 
 cities of men and women on different sides of the Ganges, of which we read in 
 Palladium, p. 9; and St. Ambrose, p. 54: at the end of Byshe's "Palladius de 
 " Gentibus Indke," and not very improbable that it may have produced the tradition so 
 common in the early travellers, of the islands of men and women, and perhaps the whole 
 fable of the Amazons. See of the islands the Arabian travellers of Renaudot, Marco 
 Polo, lib. iii. Fra Mauro in Vincent's Periplus, p. 671. See a curious note on the 
 word JFlamazeri) " all women," in Moor's Infanticide, p. 82. 
 
 Fall in Hafiz, p. 229.] — It is scarcely necessary to refer to more ancient divination ; 
 but the resemblance between the Persian trial and that of the Sortes Virgi/ianas must 
 occur to every reader. The Mahomedans have another oracle in the Koran, which they 
 consult in the same manner: and the Jews had similar recourse to the Scriptures of the 
 Old Testament. Sale's Koran. Prelim. Dissert. § iii. p. 69. The authority of Virgil 
 (and indeed, though less currently, of Homer also,) remained in full force to the middle at 
 least of the seventeenth century, as in the first instance the appeal of Charles I. and Lord 
 Falkland sufficiently proves: Johnson's Life of Cowley, p. 13. Even the Bible was 
 thus opened for divination. Ars Magica, 1638, p. iii. 
 
 3r 
 
402 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 Rags on Bushes, p. 230.] — This superstition was noticed in Persia by one of the earnest 
 travellers, Josaphat Barbaro, 1474, fol. 45, and was explained by him on the principle 
 that (such was the scarcity of wood in the country) even a bush was a miracle. M. I. 
 
 Change of Names* p. 230.] — The renaming of Shah Seffi, who then became. Shah 
 Soleyman, is related fully by Charuin and Tavernier ; and in its ceremonies is not 
 perhaps easily paralleled; but in its essential circumstance, a change of name from a 
 belief in the unluckiness of the first, it may be supported by an example in our own 
 history: when John of Scotland took the name of Robert III. (see Henry's History, 
 vol. viii. 372, from Fordun ;) because the Prince, who had borne the former appellation, 
 had been unfortunate in the annals of the country. In the family of Catherine de Me- 
 dicis ; Edward-Alexander became Henry 111 : Hercules became Charles IX. &c. 
 See a note in the Life of Cary, Earl of Monmouth, p. 39. The Jews thus changed their 
 names. 
 
 Herrmgs, p. 231.] — The herrings of the Caspian are described by P. H. Bruce. 
 Memoirs, p. 261. To oke speaks of u a fish resembling a herring." Catherine, II. 
 vol. ii. p. 56. 
 
 Coals, p. 231. — Marco Polo speaks of a combustible stone found in China; which is 
 obviously coal. Ebn Haukal mentions in Ferghaneh, " a stone that takes fire and 
 u burns," p. 250 ; compare however, p. 272, which seems to imply a more distinct know- 
 ledge of coal. 
 
 Demawend, p. 231.]— The distance to which according to the text, it is visible is paral- 
 leled by that at which Sir Wm. Jones observed the Chumalury mountains from Bhaugal- 
 pore. This distance is stated by him at two hundred and forty -four miles : but he adds, 
 that the object might be seen much further. (Note in Lord Teignmouth's Life of Sir 
 Wm. Jones, p. 253.) Another account gives the first distance from Bhaugalpore at two 
 hundred and fifty miles. P. H. Bruce, (Memoirs, 282) saw Ararat from JJerbend at a 
 distance of at least two hundred and ten geographical miles, equal to more than two 
 hundred and forty British measure, in a straight line by the compasses on Major Ren- 
 nell's map. Ebn Haukal mentions that Demawend may be seen fifty farsang round, 
 (perhaps one hundred and seventy-five miles.) He adds, " 1 have not heard that any man 
 <c ever ascended to its summit ;" p. 172. Herbert indeed relates his ascent (Travels), 
 but Olivier can describe only an ineffectual endeavour. Tom. v. p. 125, &c. The 
 difficulties which he encountered, seem to rival those of Tournefort in the attempt to 
 scale Ararat. Tom. ii. 357, &c. The fable of a plant which tinges the teeth of sheep 
 with gold, is not confined to Demawend: it is attached to their favourite mountains by 
 different nations, and may thus be traced to Mount Lebanon ; to Mount Elewnd, &c. 
 and the plant, which is convertible into gold, is found, if an alchemist may be believed, in 
 
1 -■■«*.'<• 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 403 
 
 the mountains of Yemen : it was supposed indeed by the Arabs, to constitute the real object 
 of Niebuhr's Voyage. Description de l'Arabie, p. 123. A mountain so vast, and of 
 a form so peculiar, was naturally connected with the traditionary mythology of the country : 
 and accordingly Demawend was believed to cover with all its weight Zohak, the usurper 
 in the earliest dynasty of their empire. See Champion's Ferdusi. 
 
 Rey, p. 232.]— The ruins of Rey have never been described by any European traveller : 
 if a brief and nameless notice of them by Tavernier, torn. i. 313, (who had no suspicion 
 of their history, and perhaps never saw them,) can be considered an exception. From the 
 Oriental authorities indeed he was enabled to compile a table of latitudes and longitudes; 
 and to insert Rey as 35 9 35' lat. 70° 20'. long. Tom. i. p. 401. But even the position 
 of the ruins appears imperfectly known to Chardin ; and they were sought in vain by 
 one of the latest and most intelligent of his successors, Olivier, who looked for them con- 
 siderably too much to the south. See torn. v. p. 160-1. Gardanne, who was at 
 Teheran, allots to Rey only three lines ; nor indeed does he state distinctly that he was 
 writing from his own observation. Yet his account, however imperfect in itself, is striking 
 in its close. " A Test de Teheran, ruines de Rey, ancienne Rhages, et patrie de Harouw 
 " el Rachid. Les Persans disentque Rey avoittrois millions d'habitans. Le mot Revo~ 
 (i lution ejrp/ique toutes les Calamites" P. 72. 
 
 The history of Rhages requires no illustration in the days of its greatness ; and that 
 greatness, with more than the fortune of other cities, has twice revolved. Its second rise 
 under the Mahomedans, has indeed been less traced than its first origin, though it was the 
 birth place of If ahoun fl Reschid, and one of the favourite seats of his magnificence. 
 It was then one of the capitals of the Buiya Sultans; see De Sacy, Memoires, &c. p. 145, 
 147, &c. And was taken by Mahmc d, of Ghizni, when he destroyed their dynasty. Mod. 
 Univ. Hist. iii. 195. It was subsequently one of the two great cities of the empire of the 
 Seljukians ; and as such demanded by the Emperor Rom anus, who in the decline of the 
 Roman power, imitated all the insodence of its greatness. With the Parthians and the 
 Persians, his predecessors had indeed often used this tone of presumption, and as often 
 failed in the wairs of which it was the prelude. Thus Crassus, when he was inarching to 
 his own destruction, told the Parthian Embassadors that he would give his answer at their 
 captial: Julian, in the midst of his own unhappy expedition, replied to the overtures of 
 Sapor, that he would himself visit the Persian court ; and thus Rom an us, with an inso- 
 lence unparalleled and intolerable, required from Alp Arslan, before he would listen to 
 any terms, the surrender of Rey, one of his capitals. The sequel of each event is too 
 familiar to be noticed. Rey still remained one of the greatest and most flourishing cities 
 of the East; Ispahan, Nishapour, and Bagdad, alone rivalling it. Ebn Haukal, in the 
 tenth century, describes it fully ; but in his day, though the commercial and ci\il greatness 
 of the city was at its height, its defences had declined ; and the wall around the suburbs 
 was falling to decay ; p. 176, p. 157, p. 172. Nevertheless it survived more revolutions ; 
 it was a very considerable city when it was taken by Genghiz Khan, Petit de la 
 Croix, p. 277 : and still, two centuries afterwards, it was one of the seats of the govern- 
 
 3f2 
 
404 
 
 NOTES, 
 
 ment of Shah Rokh, the son of Timur. Mod. Univ. Hist. v. 394. From his death, 
 which happened there A.D. 1446, it ceases to maintain a conspicuous place in the history of 
 Persia ; and is now venerable only in the remains of its ancient grandeur. 
 
 Taxation by hides, p. 236.] — This measure of taxation was not uncommon ; it is suffi- 
 cient to add, that it still seems to regulate the collection in other parts of the East : for in 
 aome extracts from Mahomed Saduck's Journey to Cabul, it is said that " Herat 
 " extends from the city of Ferah to Kkafa.n& Backhury. Twelve lacks; supposed to be 
 (i the net produce of as much land as twelve thousand pair of bullocks can plough, all ex- 
 u pended in civil and military establishments." 
 
 The noose, p. 243.] — The noose was Rustanis ancient implement of war. 
 
 Lamb Skins, p. 246. — The most valuable lamb-skins are perhaps taken prematurely from 
 the ewe killed for the purpose. The fabulous supplies of the Barometz (" the vegetable 
 u lamb" of Darwin, Loves, canto i. 282) were perhaps invented by the Tartars to conceal 
 from their European traders the cruelty of the practice. Bell denies the existence of the 
 Barometz, vol. i. 43, which however is well established, though its properties may be 
 doubted. P. H. Bruce, in his Memoirs, p. 336, asserts the fact that the ewes are killed 
 before parturition for the sake of the lambs ; the skins of which are then in their greatest 
 beauty, with the hair lying " in short smooth pretty curls." The trade is very profitable 
 to the Nagayan Tartars, who sell the best for ten shillings. Chardin mentions some in 
 his day at fifteen franks. The wool even of those whose lives are spared for a fortnight, 
 lies in waves, and resembles a piece of damask, the lamb having been guarded from its 
 birth by linen sewed round it. Tooke's Nations of Russia, vol. ii. 136, 267. 
 
 Shalwars, p. 247.] — " When they go a hunting, they wear Shalwars, or long trowsera 
 " which reach up to the arm pits, into which they cram all their clothes ; and a Kerguisian 
 " in this dress may be taken at a distance for a monstrous pair of breeches on horseback." 
 Tooke's Russia, ii. 280. 
 
 Mountains between Teheran and Tabriz, Chap. XIV.'] — The mountains seen in this 
 direction were in the middle ages the seats of the Dilemites; the subjects of Hassan, 
 Sheik al Jebal, Hassan " the chief or the old man of the mountains," whose power is 
 familiar to every reader, and from whose name the word assassin has been derived, with an 
 evil import, in half the modern languages of Europe. The constant recurrence of the tale 
 of his enchanted palace in the old travellers, Marco Polo, Haithon, &c. is sufficient 
 evidence of some general foundation in truth. Holakou, the son of Genghiz Khan, 
 routed out the Hassanites. 
 
 Tourchiz, p. 265.] — This place occurs in the route of Forster, who mentions Mesched, 
 as said to be one hundred miles north-west of Turshish. Vol. ii. p. 154. It was held at 
 
 
NOTES. 
 
 405 
 
 that time by Abedullah, an indc pendant Persian chief, p. 165; but Forster, who spent 
 above a fortnight in the town, does not allude to any wealth deposited there. In Ma- 
 homed Saduck's journey, the capital of the district of Turshiz and Co Surkh, is called 
 Sultania, which is probably the Sultanabad of Forster, another name for the old town of 
 Turshiz. P. 165. 
 
 Miauneh,p. 268.] — At this spot died the celebrated traveller Thevenot. See the note 
 of his death, torn. v. Gardanne says,' u Ses Papiers et ses livres furent, dit on, enleves 
 " et gardes par le Cadi." P. 41. 
 
 Number of oxen to a plough, p. 275.] — It is curious to trace in Tournefort the encrease 
 in the number of cattle thus employed, as he advances into Georgia: near Arz-roum> 
 they will yoke three or four pair to one plough, p. 213; near Cars, ten or twelve, p. 216. 
 Still farther on, in Georgia itself, fourteen or fifteen pair, p. 224. Vol. ii. of the 
 translation. 
 
 Prince Royal of Persia, p. 279.] — The character of Abbas Mirza, Prince of Tabriz, 
 is so striking in Oriental history, that every support, which can be given to the accuracy of 
 the description, is important. Gardanne confirms some of the more remarkable traits 
 in the text : " II veut relever sa nation, et il a l'ambition de la gloire militaire. S'il perd 
 " un General on un Guerrier, il dechire ses habits et donne les marques de la plus vive 
 " douleur. II a perda demierement des enfans, et n'a temoigne aucun chagrin. Pour 
 " expliquer cette indifference, il faut connaitre les mocurs. Nous demandons a un grand 
 " Seigneur le nombre de ses enfans. 11 repond naivement qu'il n'en sait rien, se tourne du 
 il cole de son Secretaire et le lui demande : celui ci repond : dix-sept." p. 3G. The 
 following anecdote is connected with the French character; it occurs in the account of an 
 entertainment given to the French Mission by the Prince's Minister. " Apresle repas, les 
 " danseurs font des tours de force. Le Vizir nous dit: raon maitre n'aime pas les 
 " danseurs, il les a tous chasses de Tauris. J'ai appelle ceux-ce des villages voisins, 
 " ayant appris de l'Ambassadeur de Perse, que ce divertessement etait agreable a votre 
 « nation." P. 37. See others, p. 38-9. 
 
 Ships on the Caspian, p. 287.] — Every reader oHIanway will recollect the extreme 
 importance which Nadir attached to the formation of a fleet in the Caspian, where the 
 famous John Elton was induced to become his Admiral. The dock-yards in the 
 Persian Gulph must import all their timber from India ; but the southern shore of the 
 Caspian contains on the spot the amplest supplies. The turbulent character of the Arabs 
 of the Gulph, induced Nadir Shah to meditate their removal from their own country ; 
 and their nautical skill and experience suggested to him the idea of transplanting them 
 profitably into the provinces along the Caspian, and replacing them in their ancient seats 
 by the people whom they thus dispossessed. But all his projects were overwhelmed in the 
 confusion which followed his death; and the only naval power, (with the exception of a 
 
■106 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 few small vessels against the Turcomans), which Persia had ever formed in the Caspian, 
 was thus annihilated. Nadir Shah collected a fleet in the Gulph also; and made 
 Bushire the port of Shims. Nieruhr, torn. ii. p. 75. Here he had assembled from 
 twenty-two to twenty-five ships, built for him at Bombay and Siirat, &c. ; but these were 
 all neglected and dispersed at his death. 
 
 Language of Ghilan, p. 288.] — Ghilan, the country of the ancient Gelce, was, according 
 to Ebn Haukal, p. 171, the level tract along the Caspian, of that province, which in its 
 mountainous parts was called Dilem. Now Dilem was with Media Inferior, Mazanderan, 
 and the countries between the Caspian and the Tigris, one of the original seats of the 
 JPehlavie. Jleeren. Act. Soc. Gotting. torn. xiii. Dilem was also a retreat of that lan- 
 guage. In the breaking up of a great empire, the institutions of the conquered race 
 always linger in the extremities. The Caucasus, the country of Derbend, Segestan, and 
 Kerman, thus sheltered the ancient language and religion of Persia : and thus the moun- 
 tains of Dilem retained till the tenth century, the worship of fire; and perhaps, therefore, 
 the Pehlavie, with which that worship had been connected. Ebn Haukal observes of 
 Taberistan, the adjoining tract, " they have a peculiar dialect, neither Arabick nor Persian: 
 *' and in many parts of Deilman their language is not understood." In a country separated 
 by these circumstances, and by its local situation from the rest of Persia, it is not impro- 
 bable that there may still exist some traces of a distinct language : and as to the imperfec- 
 tions incident to the want of written memorials, Sir Wm. Jones, in his Discourse on the 
 Arabs, has prepared us to think that Dr. Johnson's reasoning is too general. 
 
 The Cookery of the Turcomans, p. 290.] — Their cookery is something like that of the Arabs 
 described by Capper. There is a full account of the two hordes, the Eastern and Western 
 Turcomans, in a note by the French editor of the Genealt gical History of the Tatars, 
 p. 535-8. See also Tooke, ii. 93. Their wealth in money in every age has been very greats 
 because, like the Arabs, and every other pastoral people on the confines of great civilized 
 empires, they sell the necessaries of life, and will not buy the luxuries. La Roque, p. 157, 
 remarks accordingly, t-iat in the time of Pliny, the riches both of the Romans and of the 
 Parthbius were niched down among the Arabs. Harm er's Observations, vol. i. p. 122. 
 Ch a if din in his MSS. notes in Harmer, says, that they are like Abraham, " very rich 
 u in cattle, in silver, and in gold." 
 
 Chap. XV I ~] — The country from Tabriz and Arz-roum may almost be considered as 
 new ground in European description. Gardanne is the only other traveller who has 
 traced this route, (Journal, &c. p. 21-35) ; but the information which he collected in his 
 passage is so limited, that he appears to know nothing of the Lake of Shahee ; or rather in 
 travelling along its shores, he confounds it with that of Van, which is at least one hundred 
 miles from the spot where he places it ; p. 35. The country between Arz-roum and 
 Tocat is described by Tournefort, torn. ii. and by Tavernier, torn. i. p. 12-19: and as 
 one of the great roads from Bagdad, &c. falls in at Tocat, the further progress to Con- 
 
 
NOTES. 
 
 407 
 
 Btantinople is continued on Mr. Morier's line, by Taverjtier, i. 1-12. Otter ii. 330- 
 357. Howell, p. 102-132. Jackson, p. 205-236. Aboo Taleb, ii. 256-264. Gar- 
 DANne, p. 114-119; see also p. 1-13. 
 
 Khoi, p. 299.] — The singularity of the walls of Khoi, is noticed by Gardanne, with a 
 more singular illustration : " Qu-ot/e est entoure de murailles et de tours, et ressemble 
 " exactement aux gravures de Jerico que Ton voit dans les Bibles." P. 34. 
 
 Ararat, p. 306.]— The heighth of Ararat can best be understood by considering the 
 distance at which it maybe seen. Chardin mentions that it is visible at Marant: torn. i. 
 p. 253; Bruce, that he saw it at Derbend, Memoirs, p. 282 ; Struys, whom Olivier 
 well characterises as " Romanesque," describes his ascent to visit a sick hermit at the top, 
 p. 208, &c. ; but Tournefort, one of the first of travellers, has stated so fully the difficul- 
 ties of his own attempt, that probably they have never yet been overcome. The mountain 
 is divided into three regions of different breadths ; the first, composed of a short and 
 slippery grass or sand " aussi facheux que les Syrtes d'Afrique," is occupied by shep- 
 herds ; the second, by tygers and crows ; the remainder, which is half the mountain '* est 
 " couverte de neige depuis que l'arch y arreta, et ces neiges sont cachees la moitie de 
 " l'annee sous les nuages fort epais. Les tygres que nous appercumes ne laisserent pag 
 " de nous faire peur," p. 358. It was impossible to go forwards and penetrate to the third 
 region ; and not easy to go back : at length, utterly exhausted, they reached the bottom, 
 " nous rendimes graces au Seigneur d'en etre revenus, car peut-etre que nous serion» 
 " perdus on que nous serions morts de faim sur cette Montagne," p. 371. If these were 
 the sensations with which Tournefort regarded his enterprise, the common belief of the 
 country may well be admitted, that no one ever yet ascended the Ararat of the Armenians. 
 
 P. 317.] — Hassan Cala is the ancient Theodosiopolis. 
 vol. ii. p. 100. 
 
 D'Anville, Geogr. Anc. 
 
 Arz-roum, p. 320.] — This city has been more generally written, Erz-roum, as by 
 Chardin, &c. ; but from the definition assigned to it by Tournefort, torn. ii. p. 257, 
 276, and adopted by D'Anville, Geogr. Anc. torn. ii. 99; that of the Arza of Rum, (the 
 Asia Minor occupied by the Roman Empire) the present reading is established. The 
 plain, in which it is built, is included by Tournefort, p. 325, in that district, which he 
 regards as the site of the terrestrial paradise. Yet the cold of a region so elevated as that 
 which contains the springs of the Euphrates and the Araxes must be extreme : nor can 
 the beauty of the spot be at all assisted by forest scenery; Mr. Morier has observed the 
 scarcity of wood, and Tournefort says, that there is no fuel but pine wood, and that is 
 brought two or three days journey, p. 259. Arz-roum was an early christian bishopries, 
 in its civil history it was alternately subject to the Empire of Constantinople and that of 
 Persia. In the eleventh century it stood a siege of six days, when the assailants, expecting 
 that it would be relieved, sacrificed their hopes of booty, and set fire to the place, con- 
 
 3 
 
40S 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 sumino* in it so many, that, with the destruction in the six previous days, swelled the total 
 loss of lives to one hundred and forty thousand. In the thirteenth century it appears as the 
 Argyron of Marco Polo. The city contained in Tournefort's time (1700) eighteen 
 thousand Turks, six thousand Armenians, and four hundred Greeks. The Jesuits reckoned 
 eight thousand Armenians, and one hundred families of the Greeks. The present popu- 
 lation is estimated by Gardanne at one hundred and thirty thousand, p. 81. In the 
 former commerce of Asia Minor it was, " le passage et le reposoir de toutes les marchan- 
 " dises des lndes." Tournefort describes the influence of the French ; and seems pleased 
 that the Turks pay more regard to the recommendations of the King of France, than to 
 those of the Mufti of Rome. 
 
 Mama Khatoun, p. 327.]— A spot near Mama Khatoun is suggested by Tournefort 
 as the scene of the great battle between Mithridates and Pompev. 
 
 P. 356.]— Gerate/i is the Cants of the Romans. R. 
 
 Canal from the Lake Sabanja, p. 360.]— The ancient Kings of Bithynia had left un- 
 finished a canal from the Nicomedian Lake, the modern Sabanja. The younger Pliny, when 
 Governor of the province, recommended the undertaking to Trajan. Plin. Epist. x. 46. 
 Trajan, in reply, desires him to take care that the lake be not exhausted bv letting its 
 waters into the sea. Ep. 51. Pliny, Epist. 69, suggests sufficient in answer to prove 
 that this danger might be obviated ; though his project, however practicable or profitable, 
 was never realized. Trajan's Letter, 70. At the end of sixteen centuries it was 
 revived by the Grand Vizir, Kuprigli. It was destined to communicate with other 
 rivers, and to open a water carriage into the centre of those immense forests, which in 
 every age have supplied the arsenals of Constantinople. But the project was sacrificed to 
 a timely bribe offered by those who had monopolized the conveyance of the timber by 
 land; and Kuprigli, at the eve of the accomplishment, was deprived of the glory of 
 completing that which Pliny and Trajan had projected in vain. 
 

 APPENDIX* 
 
 APPENDIX, No. I. 
 
 MONEY IN PERSIA. 
 
 (THOSE IN ITALICS HAVE ONLY A NOMINAL EXISTENCE. ACCOUNT! ARE KEPT IN DINARS AND PIAITRES.) 
 
 5 Dinars 
 
 20 Dinars 
 
 25 Dinars 
 
 50 Dinars 
 
 500 Dinars 
 
 1,000 Dinars 
 
 1,250 Dinars 
 
 1 Ghauz. 
 1 Beestee. 
 a Shahee. 
 1 Shahe$. 
 10 Shahee 
 20 SAaAee 
 1 Realf. 
 
 £ Groush. 
 1 Groush*. 
 
 2,500 Dinars = 50 SAaAee = 1 Ashreffee. 
 10,000 Dinars = 10 Piastres = 1 Tomaun. 
 
 3 Shahee = 1 Shahee J. 
 
 4 Shahee = 1 Abassee. 
 
 8 Shahee = 1 Real or Rupee §. 
 100,000 Rupees = 1 Lack. 
 
 * This appears the piastre in valns. " A piastre is about two shillings British." " Average exchange between 
 a Persia and India, one hundred and thirty piastres for one hundred rupees." 
 
 •f- ** Containing two miscall, six helwd of silver. None of the coins that are struck in Persia have any alloy." 
 
 X " The present shahee takes its name from the shahee of the Seffis, but has increased in value owing to the rise 
 " of silver. They have no coin of greater amount than the tomaun, except it be a very large piece which the King 
 " has struck for the luxury and magnificence of his own treasury, and which is equal to one thousand tomauns, or 
 " ten thousand piastres." 
 
 % As there is some obscurity, the whole passage in the original is subjoined here : 
 
 8 Shahee = 1 Real or Rupee. 
 4£ Reals = 1 Ditto. 
 2§ Reals = 1 Ditto. 
 
 3o 
 

 410 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II.— 1. 
 
 ROUTES IN PERSIA. 
 
 ITINERARY FROM BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ,* 
 
 WITH THE POPULATION AND TRIBUTE. 
 
 BUSHIRE to 
 
 Alichangee| - - - - 
 
 Ahmedieh - - - - - 
 
 Sermel ------ 
 
 Eesevendee - - - - - 
 
 Khosh Aub - - - - - 
 
 BORAZJOON _ - - - 
 Daulakee - - - - 
 
 Khonar Tackta - - 
 
 Khisht 
 
 Khaumaridge - - - 
 Derees ------ 
 
 Kauzeroon - - - . 
 Abdoui ------ 
 
 Desht-e-arjun - - - 
 Khone Zenioun - - 
 Bagh Shah Cheragh ■ 
 
 Shiraz 
 
 Zf.rgoon - - - - - 
 Mirhaust gaun - • 
 Persepolis - - - - ■ 
 In the plain are sixty ") 
 villages - - - -j 
 
 0> 
 
 n 
 
 3 
 
 c 
 
 6 
 o 
 
 -»- 
 
 s 
 
 u 
 B 
 
 X! 
 
 s 
 
 150 
 
 60 
 
 900 
 
 170 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 200 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 100 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 100 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 2000 
 
 260 
 
 5600 
 
 1000 
 
 600 
 
 — 
 
 600 
 
 660 
 
 660 
 
 500 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 1000 
 
 150 
 
 — 
 
 4000 
 
 2500 
 
 2500 
 
 800 
 
 320 
 
 — 
 
 600 
 
 160 
 
 100 
 
 25 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 12,000 
 
 
 
 
 
 1000 
 
 160 
 
 600 
 
 
 
 3500 
 
 5000 
 
 Seewund - - - 
 
 Kemeen - - - 
 
 Morghaub - • 
 
 Deibeed - - ■ 
 Khone Khorreh 
 
 Surmek - - • 
 
 Abadeh - - - 
 Shoolgistoun 
 Yezdikhaust 
 Maxhoud Beggy 
 
 komeshah - - • 
 
 Mayar§ - - • 
 
 Ispahanek - ■ 
 
 Ispahan - - • 
 
 Gez - - - - . 
 mourchekourd 
 
 KOHROUD - - - 
 
 Kashan - - - . 
 Nusserabad - 
 
 Koom - - - . 
 
 Pool Dallatjk • 
 Kinar-a-gird 
 
 Teheran - - ■ 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 W 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 01 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 170 
 
 
 1000 
 
 700 
 
 1000 
 
 300 
 
 100 
 
 60 
 
 1000 
 
 
 
 1000 
 
 — 
 
 100 
 
 — 
 
 600 
 
 120 
 
 6000 
 
 3000 
 
 200 
 
 100 
 
 150 
 
 40 
 
 80,000 
 
 70,000 
 
 500 
 
 400 
 
 300 
 
 200 
 
 200 
 
 200 
 
 5000 
 
 3500 
 
 250 
 
 — 
 
 3000 
 
 2500 
 
 600 
 
 
 
 12,000 
 
 — 
 
 1000 
 700 
 
 120 
 
 4000 
 
 100 
 
 40 
 
 50,000 
 
 300 
 
 200 
 
 100 
 
 3500 
 
 1200 
 
 * The population throughout is stated at five persons to a house. 
 
 f This is the tribute paid in produce. A kherwar is one hundred mauns of Tabriz - } each maun being seven pounds 
 and a quarter English. 
 
 J The places in small capital letters are the stages. 
 
 | Two roads ; one by Orchiene, the other by Itpahanth 
 
 
 ■*f-*-^^--^-- 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 411 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II— 2. 
 
 ITINERARY FROM KOOM TO SULTANIEH.* 
 
 U 
 
 s 
 
 u 
 
 3 
 
 E 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 ED 
 
 
 D 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 33 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 e 
 
 o 
 
 t. 
 
 
 26 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 Mudjd-abad 
 
 40 
 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 In going from Koom, the Teheran road is 
 left, which goes more to the eastward. 
 At three fursungs from Koom the cele- 
 brated enchanted hill, called " Gedden 
 " gelmez," i. e. «»Aa gws onrf aever re- 
 turns, is passed. Near Mudjd-abad, 
 crossed a small river running east. 
 
 36 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 Daung - - - 
 
 A small 
 
 village 
 
 At two fursungs from Mudjd-abad, pass a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 fort called Turragnareen, and some 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 streams of water, and on the right a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 village. Sauva, a considerable town, is 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 five fursungs from Mudjd-abad: two or 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 three miles on the left, near Daung, saw 
 a distant range of mountains to the N. 
 covered with snow. 
 
 45 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 Sakisabad - - 
 
 150 
 
 150 
 
 300 
 
 Six fursungs from Daung, passed a round 
 caravanserai called Jeeb. It is situated 
 at the entrance of hills, on leaving the 
 plain of Daung. After passing the hills, 
 descended into the large plain, in which 
 Casvin is said to be situated ; here 
 are a number of small villages. Wind 
 fresh from the N.W. which is called, 
 Band Gagazgoon, from a place of that 
 name, from which quarter it blows.f 
 
 26 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 Bostanuk - - 
 
 150 
 
 150 
 
 200 
 
 Bostanuk is in a very extensive plain, with 
 many villages and cultivation. The peo- 
 ple talk Turkish. 
 
 28 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 Khorremdereh - 
 
 400 
 
 300 
 
 400 
 
 More villages and more cultivation than 
 before. Through the ravine, in which 
 this village is situated, runs a small 
 river. 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 - - 
 
 
 
 
 
 The Royal camp : halted eight miles from 
 the camp. 
 
 * Extracted from Dr. Jykes's Journal of Mr. Makesty's route. 
 
 3 G 2 
 
 f See p. 253. 
 
412 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II.— 3. 
 
 ITINERARY PROM SULTANIEH TO BAGDAD, FROM DR. JUKES's JOURNAL. 
 
 S 
 
 11 
 
 18 
 
 16 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 2* 
 2* 
 
 3* 
 6* 
 
 4* 
 
 2 
 6 
 
 2* 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 5* 
 
 2 
 5 
 
 Sultanith. 
 Kooshabad - 
 
 Beejaeen - - 
 
 Jereen - - 
 Arpadurrasi ■ 
 
 Surla 
 
 Hubbadraheng 
 
 Veean - - - 
 Joureekan 
 
 Hamadan 
 
 300 
 
 150 
 
 250 
 
 300 
 
 2000 
 
 150 
 
 150 
 
 80 
 
 150 
 
 200 
 
 600 
 
 100 
 
 150 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 200 
 
 500 
 
 100 
 
 Large Village 
 
 Marching west from 
 through mountains. 
 
 Sultanith, passed 
 
 The road led across a plain ; passed a con- 
 siderable village on the plain. There is 
 a running stream near Beejaeen. 
 
 More villages. 
 
 Crossed the bed of a river, after leaving 
 Jereen. At two fursungs passed some 
 defiles; and continued on an ascent all the 
 rest of the march. Soon after Jereen, we 
 came into the country of the Karaguzloos. 
 
 First part of the road was on a plain; on 
 the right hand were two or three villages. 
 During the latter part of to-day's march., 
 saw the famous mountain of Alwund. 
 
 Passed through the village Dumma. Many 
 villages besides. 
 
 The country about here looks prosperous. 
 
 The country cultivated, and villages. From 
 the summit of a hill, had a view of the 
 fertile plain of Hamadan. 
 
 Shevereen is a village three miles from 
 Hamadan. Hamadan, situated at the 
 foot of the east side of the mountain of 
 Alwund. Many streams fall from Al- 
 wund into the plain. Alwund appears at 
 a distance to be one long range of moun- 
 tains. I am assured the length of Al- 
 wund Proper is not more than three/wr- 
 sungs in length; and is distinct from the 
 northern range. Through the interval 
 between these two ranges, leads the road 
 to Kermanshah. 
 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 413 
 
 Appendix, No. II. — 3. (Continued.) 
 
 12 
 12 
 
 Zagha 
 Asadabad 
 
 400 
 
 600 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 4* 
 
 4* 
 
 Kungavai 
 
 Sahna 
 
 16 
 
 Beesitoon 
 
 15 
 
 84 
 
 4 Hissar Sefeed 
 
 300 
 
 500 
 
 200 
 
 400 
 
 1000 800 
 
 400 300 
 
 500 
 
 300 
 
 Many villages all around. 
 
 One fursung from Zagha came to a pass in 
 the mountain. Many streams from the 
 hills. There is a village one mile within 
 the pass : and near to it, is a caravan- 
 serai, which is the boundary of the dis- 
 trict of the Karaguzloos. Our march 
 then continued for three miles through 
 the hills, and then opened the following 
 view: plain of Ha ma dan to the Eastward; 
 to the Westward the plain of Asadabad, 
 surrounded by the mountaius and the 
 village of Asadabad, considerably beneath 
 us; to the Northward, the distant moun- 
 tains of the Courdistan ; and to the South- 
 ward those of IuOoristan. From here to 
 the plain, the descent was four miles. 
 
 This village is situated on the north side of 
 its plain. 
 
 Passed by one or two villages : springs of 
 water on the side of the mountain. Plain 
 well watered. Near to the village of 
 Sahna, we crossed two other considerable 
 streams which seemed to descend from 
 the hills that form the N. side of the 
 plain. 
 
 From Sahna two or three miles, our road 
 led up the plain; then it took a more 
 southerly course. The streams of yester- 
 day uniting, form a considerable river, 
 and we kept by the banks of it all day. 
 Near to the famous mountain of Besitoon, 
 we crossed a bridge, over a river, that 
 takes its rise in the" N. VV. mountains on 
 our ri'»ht, and joined the river before 
 mentioned. The river that runs down 
 this valley is called the Cfiu/n-chumal, 
 from a village of the same name. Here 
 are characters sculptured like the Perse- 
 politan. 
 
 Road over an uncultivated plain; to the left 
 a small running stream. The river of 
 
414 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Appendix, No. II. — 3. (Continued.) 
 
 Kermanshah 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 18 
 
 3 Makeedasht 
 
 Haroonabad 
 
 30 
 
 Kcrrund 
 
 20 - 
 
 100 60 
 
 300 200 
 
 200 
 
 Pool-e-Zohaub - 
 
 20 
 
 4 5 
 
 Kasr-e-Shereen 
 
 Small 
 Place. 
 
 yesterday seemed to take a more S. di- 
 rection among the mountains ; and we 
 lost it after leafing the valley of Busi- 
 toon. We saw Kermanshah, and en- 
 camped six miles from the town. 
 
 > 
 
 One hour and a half after leaving our en- 
 campment, crossed a good bridge of 
 seven arches, over the river which was 
 running to the south, and said to join 
 those that run down the valley Kusis- 
 toon, to form the Shooster river. The 
 Tauk-e- Houston is in the north range of 
 mountains about seven miles from Ker- 
 manshah. The river in the plain to the 
 N. of the town runs south, and joining 
 with that from Sahna and Btsitoon, adds 
 its stream to the large Shooster river. 
 They call this river Kara Sou: it is said 
 to take its rise in the mountain of Kour- 
 distan, forty miles to the northward of 
 Kermanshah. 
 
 Seven miles from Kermanshah descended 
 into the plain of Maheedasht. 
 
 Plain of Haroonabad; is well watered. 
 Crossed a bridge soon after quitting the 
 village. The bed of the river large. 
 
 The mountains at Kerrund contract, and 
 leave an open space at the distance of 
 seven miles further on ; through which 
 the road descends into the Turkish terri- 
 tory. 
 
 Seven miles from Kerrund is the pass that 
 separates Persia from Turkey. — Zohaub 
 is a large town, not far distant from the 
 bridge called Pool-e- Zohaub, where we 
 encamped. 
 
 Piastres. 
 3000 
 
 The Alwund, which takes its rise, in the 
 mountains of Kerrund, runs near Kasr-e-, 
 Shereen. 
 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 415 
 
 Appendix, No. II. — 3. (Continued.) 
 
 
 So 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 • 
 
 Oi 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 n 
 
 s 
 
 o 
 H 
 
 C3 
 
 5 
 M 
 
 
 18 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 30 
 35 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 8 
 9 
 
 
 Khanakee - - 
 Kizzil Robot - 
 Shahrevan 
 
 Bagdad. 
 
 2000 
 1500 
 1000 
 
 
 8000 
 20,000 
 
 Built on the banks of the Alwund : here is a 
 good bridge. 
 
 And the revenues rented for twelve thou- 
 sand five hundred and six piastres. 
 
 The Alwund river here is very considerable. 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II.-- 4. 
 
 ISPAHAN TO BAGDAD. 
 
 
 bo 
 
 
 ho 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 fe 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Anooshervan. 
 
 6 
 
 Imauret. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Chal Seeah. 
 
 6 
 
 Hissar. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Dur. 
 
 7 
 
 Mehrabad. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Dehhak. 
 
 7 
 
 Pur Syeh. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Koukek. 
 
 4 
 
 Kenghaver. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Khomehee. 
 
 
 
 
416 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II.— 5. 
 
 ROUTE FROM BUSH1RE TO CONGOON. 
 
 
 dS 
 
 bo 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 go 
 
 1 
 
 
 «5 
 
 bo 
 
 C 
 
 a 
 It 
 3 
 fa 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Mir Abdullah. 
 
 6 
 
 Baudouleh. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Deh Ranzee. 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Kaukee. 
 
 5 
 
 Congoon. 
 
 
 APPENDIX, No. II.— 6. 
 
 ROUTE FROM SHIRAZ TO BEHBAHAN. 
 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 gS 
 
 C 
 3 
 
 e 
 
 3 
 fa 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Jouyoum. 
 
 5 
 
 Fahleeyaun. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Kholar. 
 
 4 
 
 Seraub Seeah. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Deh Ali. 
 
 3 
 
 Bausht. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Pouli Dousack. 
 
 8 
 
 Dougoumbedan. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Pouli Mourd. 
 
 8 
 
 Behbahan. 
 
 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 417 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, 
 
 KEI»T AT BUSHIRE BY DR. JUKES, JUNE 1807. 
 
 Day. 
 
 June 
 
 5th 
 
 Gth 
 
 13th 
 
 14th 
 
 15th 
 
 10th 
 
 17th 
 
 Hour. 
 
 6 A. M. 
 1 P. M. 
 
 6 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 6 A. M. 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 6 A. M. 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 o 
 
 90< 
 
 91 
 
 80 
 
 84 
 
 80 
 84 
 
 80 
 
 85 
 
 80 
 
 86 
 
 80 
 87 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Cool breeze from the land. 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Haze. 
 
 Fresh N. W all the day.* 
 
 Pleasant and more mode- 
 rate. 
 
 Evening hazy. 
 
 Very hazy. 
 
 Light N. wind through the 
 day.f 
 
 Light N. wind and very 
 hazy. 
 
 Do. blowing rather fresh at 
 at night. 
 
 Pleasant N. breeze. In the 
 evening but little wind, 
 and at night warmer than 
 I have felt it for some 
 time.J 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 June. 
 18th 
 
 19th 
 
 20th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 4 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 
 83< 
 89 
 
 84 
 90 
 
 83 
 8G 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 21st 
 
 22d 
 
 23d 
 
 5 A.M. 
 4 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 83 
 87 
 
 83 
 87 
 
 84 
 
 Light N. wind ; hazy during 
 the morning. 
 
 Fresh from the N. W. dur- 
 ing the evening. 
 
 Rather fresh from the N. W. 
 
 At night strong from the 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Fresh: at night fresher: 
 since the N. W. begun on 
 the 18th, it has constantly 
 blown harder during the 
 night; and somewhat lulled 
 during the day. This even- 
 ing extremely hazy, and 
 at sunset, the sun quite ob- 
 scured. § 
 
 Light N. air: fresh at 
 night and exceedingly 
 hazy. 
 
 Do. : at sunset atmosphere 
 clearer : night serene. 
 
 Calm, and the warmest morn- 
 ing in the season, light W. 
 
 * Strong N. W. from the. 6th to the 13th, with little or no intermission : great dust. 
 f Water melons, musk melons, and figs in season; and plenty of them. 
 J The weather does not appear so hot as in former seasons. 
 
 § I have not remarked such a haze in former times. 1 have scarcely seen the mountains of Persia since the latter, 
 end of May. 
 
 3H 
 
418 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.) 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 Julie. 
 
 24th 
 
 25th 
 
 Hour. 
 
 3 o 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P.M. 
 
 26th 6 A. M. 
 3 P. M. 
 
 27th 
 
 28th 
 
 29th 
 
 July. 
 3d 
 
 4th 
 5th 
 6th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 3 P. M. 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 83° 
 87 
 
 84 
 
 88 
 
 84 
 89 
 
 83 
 88 
 
 83 
 91 
 
 85 
 92 
 
 85 
 91 
 
 84 
 92 
 
 85 
 94 
 
 85 
 95 
 
 hreeze during the day. The 
 island of Kharrack dis- 
 tinctly seen from the plain, 
 and from Concord lodge.* 
 
 Light N. W. hazy. 
 
 Do. 
 
 At night, light breeze from 
 the land. 
 
 Warm morning: hazy. 
 
 Light N. W. 
 
 Pleasant : cool breeze at night 
 from the land. 
 
 N. breeze. Extremely warm 
 at night : breeze from the 
 southward. 
 
 Calm, and very warm.t 
 
 N. light: very hazy morning, 
 
 North : cool breeze from the 
 land at day-break. 
 
 N. warm in the morning. 
 
 South ; in the evening the 
 south W. sprung up. 
 
 Day. 
 
 July. 
 7th 
 
 8th 
 
 Hour. 
 
 9th 
 
 LOth 
 
 11th 
 
 12th 
 
 13th 
 
 14th 
 
 15th 
 
 16th 
 
 17th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 F S 
 
 Wind [and Weather. 
 
 84° 
 95 
 
 83 
 95£ 
 
 91 
 
 93£ 
 
 90 
 93 
 
 89 
 934 
 
 89 
 94 
 
 92 
 95 
 
 89 
 96 
 
 90 
 95£ 
 
 92 
 96 
 
 91 
 
 96 
 
 South, light: night very 
 close. 98° in the country. 
 
 North : land breeze cool at 
 day-break. 
 
 Sun set very thick : sun 
 hazed. 
 
 North ; fresh. 
 
 North: pleasant; very hazy. 
 
 North all day; at night, 
 breeze from the land : very 
 hazy. 
 
 N. light: very warm at night. 
 
 S. light ; great haze. Sun 
 seen only half an hour after 
 it was risen. 
 
 W. light ; hazy, close, and 
 somewhat cloudy. 
 
 N. light; great haze: cool 
 on account of the north 
 breeze. 
 
 North: hazy. 
 
 North: sun set cloudy. Night 
 close. 
 
 * I have seen it one or two days before in this month, but I do not recollect to have seen it during th« winter, or 
 when the atmosphere is very clear. 
 
 f Bushire ; grapes good and plentiful ; musk and water melons, and figs. 
 
 5 
 

 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 
 
 419 
 
 
 Meteorological Journa 
 
 L, &c. 1807. (Continued.) 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 o ^ 
 
 s « 
 -= s 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 S <u 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 July. 
 
 
 
 
 Aug. 
 
 
 
 
 18th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 90° 
 96 
 
 S. E.— during the day S.W. 
 Heavy dew. 
 
 2d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 91° 
 96 
 
 N. fresh. 
 
 
 
 
 
 3d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 90 
 
 N. fresh. 
 
 J 9th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 3 P.M. 
 
 89 
 96 
 
 N. W. great dew at night. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 95 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 89 
 
 N. cooler in the day, but 
 
 20th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 90 
 
 South ; fresh ; hazy. At Mr. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 94 
 
 closer at night. 
 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 Bruce's house 100°, very 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 close. 
 
 6th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 89 
 95 
 
 N. Atmosphere clearer. 
 Mountains visible. 
 
 21st 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 90 
 
 South ; oppressively hot. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 
 7th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 89 
 
 North. 
 
 22d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 89 
 
 S. W. fresh. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 94 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 
 8th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 88 
 93 
 
 N. strong. Early at night 
 wind from the south. 
 
 23d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 89 
 
 S. W. These southerly winds 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 are unusual. 
 
 9th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 88 
 
 N. W. 
 
 24th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 89 
 
 S. W. very hazy. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 94 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 
 10th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 87 
 
 North. 
 
 25th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 88 
 
 South West. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 95 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 95 
 
 
 11th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 87 
 95 
 
 Rather south. 
 
 26th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 87 
 
 S. W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 95 
 
 
 12th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 87 
 94 
 
 S.W. 
 
 27th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 87 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 95 
 
 
 13th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 88 
 
 N. W. ; extremely hazy. 
 
 28th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 88 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 94 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 
 14th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 88 
 
 N. ; at night light E. breeze. 
 
 29th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 88 
 
 S. W. light ; very close, and 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 94 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 96 
 
 oppressive. 
 
 15th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 86 
 94 
 
 S. during the day. At night 
 cooler than for three months 
 
 30th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 90 
 98 
 
 Greater heat than yesterday. 
 Yet it hlew N. and we did 
 
 
 
 
 past. 
 
 
 
 
 not feel the heat so much. 
 
 16th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 87 
 94 
 
 S. W. great dew at night. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 
 
 
 17th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 88 
 
 N. W.in the evening. Morn- 
 
 1st 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 91 
 95 
 
 North ; light fresh. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 95 
 
 ing calm; and oppressive 
 heat. 
 
 3H2 
 
420 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.) 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 Aug. 
 19th 
 
 20th 
 21st 
 22d 
 
 23d 
 24th 
 
 25th 
 26th 
 27th 
 28th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 as 
 
 Wind a»d Weather. 
 
 29th 5 A. M. 
 
 2P.M. 
 
 30th; 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 Sept. 
 1st 
 
 2d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 90 c 
 95 
 
 87 
 93 
 
 84 
 93 
 
 82 
 92 
 
 83 
 92 
 
 84 
 93 
 
 83 
 93 
 
 85 
 94 
 
 83 
 93 
 
 82 
 92 
 
 85 
 93* 
 
 87 
 94 
 
 83 
 95 
 
 85 
 94 
 
 N. hrecze. Nights cool and 
 pleasant. 
 
 N. W. hazy. 
 
 Cold morning. 
 
 N. W. unusually cold for 
 the season, in the morning : 
 saw the mountains. 
 
 Saw the mountains. 
 
 Colds becoming frequent, 
 from the cold nights. 
 
 S. Dew at night. 
 
 S. Heavy dew at night. 
 
 S. W. ; very hazy and great 
 dew. 
 
 Evening and morning, thick 
 fog. During the day S. 
 breeze. 
 
 S. W. Oppressive day. 
 
 S. W. Warm and oppres- 
 sive: hazy. 
 
 South. 
 
 S. W. Dew at night. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Sept. 
 3d 
 
 Hour. 
 
 S « 
 
 ■g s 
 
 4th 
 5th 
 6th 
 7th 
 
 8th 
 9th 
 10th 
 11th 
 12th 
 13th 
 
 14th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 5 P. M. 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 86 c 
 95 
 
 86 
 93 
 
 86 
 94 
 
 85 
 94 
 
 84 
 95 
 
 84 
 95 
 
 84 
 95 
 
 88 
 95 
 
 83 
 94 
 
 85 
 95 
 
 85 
 95 
 
 86 
 95 
 
 84 
 
 S. W. Hazy. 
 S. W. 
 
 s. w. 
 
 N. light winds. 
 
 West ; light ; very warm 
 
 N.W.; light 
 
 S. Evening cloudy. Op- 
 pressive heat. 
 
 S. ; a very unusual day at 
 this season. Wind increased 
 from the S. durug the 
 morning, and blew hard 
 till two P. M. ; lulled quar- 
 ter of an hour ; shifted to 
 the N. ; blew very hard, 
 with lightning and thunder. 
 Rain ; dull ; and at five 
 P. M. vast column of sand 
 from the E. announced a 
 gale. The thermometer 
 
 

 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 
 
 421 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.) 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 a * 
 
 — —————— 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 o ^ 
 
 g 0> 
 
 « s 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 
 
 
 Sept. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sunk eleven degrees. Rain, 
 
 29th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 80° 
 
 S. Light. 
 
 
 
 
 thunder, and immense 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 90 
 
 
 
 
 
 lightning. Night: pleasant 
 breeze during the night, 
 
 30th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 80 
 
 S. Close. 
 
 
 
 
 from S. and E. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 90 
 
 • 
 
 15th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 83° 
 
 S. fresh; cool and pleasant. 
 
 1st 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 80 
 
 Westerly ; thick fog and ex- 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 92 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 90 
 
 tremely wet. Ground moist, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 like as with rain. 
 
 16th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 83 
 
 N. light. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 92 
 
 
 2d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 79 
 91 
 
 N. W. 
 
 17th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 83 
 
 N. W. hazy. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 92 
 
 
 3d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 80 
 92 
 
 N. W. 
 
 19th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 84 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 92 
 
 
 4th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 80 
 90 
 
 N. fresh : comet, due W t of 
 Bushire. 7 P. M. 40° and 
 
 20th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 83 
 93 
 
 N. pleasant. 
 
 
 
 
 50° above the horizon. 
 
 21st 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 83 
 
 N. 
 
 5th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 80 
 
 N. fresh : mountains clear. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 92 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 91 
 
 
 22d 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 83 
 
 N. 9 P. M. cool E. breeze. 
 
 6th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 81 
 
 N. fresh. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 93 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 92 
 
 
 23d 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 82 
 
 N. 
 
 7th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 81 
 
 N. fresh : light. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 93 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 91 
 
 
 24th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 81 
 93 
 
 N. fresh: mountain clear: 
 land wind. 
 
 8th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 81 
 92 
 
 S. light and warm: consi- 
 derable dew at night. 
 
 25th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 82 
 
 N. Fresh at night : hard from 
 
 9th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 81 
 
 S. W. light Baad-e-Suba. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 93 
 
 the N. W. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 91 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 80 
 
 W. in the day. Baad-e- 
 
 26th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 85 
 93 
 
 N. W. More moderate. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 90 
 
 Suba and dews. 
 
 27th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 82 
 
 N. Baad-e-Suba, cool from 
 
 11th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 79 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 93 
 
 the mountains. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 90 
 
 
 28th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 80 
 92 
 
 East. Cool. 
 
 12th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 80 
 90 
 
 1 
 
 S. E. cool breeze. 
 
422 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c. 1807. (Continued.) 
 
 »ay. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 S 4) 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 5 4> 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 
 
 
 Oct. 
 
 
 
 
 13th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 79° 
 
 N. W. fresh and cold. 
 
 21st 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 74° 
 
 East and north. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 85 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 85 
 
 
 14th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 78 
 
 N. cool and pleasant. 
 
 22d 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 72 
 
 North : east and west in the 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 85 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 86 
 
 morning. 
 
 15th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 78 
 
 N. pleasant. 
 
 23d 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 74 
 
 E. heavy clouds and little 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 84* 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 86 
 
 rain. 
 
 16th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 75 
 
 N. hazy mountains. 
 
 24th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 
 76 
 
 East. Clouds ; heavy clouds 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 85 
 
 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 86 
 
 to the W. and thunder : 
 warm. 
 
 17th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 74 
 
 N. pleasant. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 84 
 
 
 25th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 78 
 85 
 
 N. fresh. 
 
 18th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 74 
 
 East and north. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 84 
 
 
 26th 
 
 5 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 76 
 84 
 
 N. fresh. Cloudy and plea- 
 sant 
 
 19th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 73 
 
 North. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 84 
 
 
 27th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 
 75 
 
 N. 
 
 20th 
 
 5 A.M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 73 
 87 
 
 East A. M.; then southerly 
 and warmer. 
 
 28th 
 
 - - 
 
 
 Went a hunting to the 12th 
 November. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 423 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, 
 
 KEPT AT BUSHIRE, NOVEMBER, 1808. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 g 4, 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 S a> 
 H 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 
 
 
 Nov. 
 
 
 
 
 2d 
 
 6 A. M. 
 
 69° 
 
 S. E. light clouds from the 
 
 S. 
 
 8th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 68° 
 
 Calm, and rather hazy : light 
 clouds. 
 
 
 12 
 
 84 
 
 Clouds still rising. 
 
 
 12 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 77 
 
 Sky wild. Foxes tails: an 
 extraordinary halo round 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 76 
 
 Fresh night. 
 
 
 
 
 the moon: sultry. 
 
 9th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 73 
 
 Southerly. Clouds all over, 
 with appearance of rain. 
 
 3d 
 
 6 A.M. 
 12 
 
 70 
 84 
 
 S. E. clouds all over, but 
 light. Very sultry, and 
 
 
 12 
 
 80 
 
 Very sultry. 
 
 
 
 
 wind hot, though not clam- 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 73 
 
 Clear sky, and a pleasant 
 
 
 
 
 my. 
 
 
 
 
 evening. 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 80 
 
 
 10th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 73 
 
 Calm. Fine clear morning. 
 
 4th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 74 
 
 S. E. clouds all over: haze; 
 
 
 12 
 
 80 
 
 Sultry day. 
 
 
 12 
 
 84 
 
 wind light in the morning, 
 but increased very strong 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 
 
 at noon. 
 
 11th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 73 
 
 Southerly. Sultry : cloudy to 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 81 
 
 Fell in the evening very 
 
 
 12 
 
 83 
 
 the north, and at sun-set 
 
 
 
 
 heavy: clouds in the N. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 79 
 
 large clouds over Halila 
 
 
 
 
 W. with a little lightning. 
 
 
 
 
 Peak emitting much light- 
 
 
 
 
 Calm. 
 
 
 
 
 ning. At about 7 P. M. it 
 blew fresh from the clouds, 
 
 5th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 65 
 
 N. E. At about three this 
 
 
 
 
 and at about ten o'clock in 
 
 
 12 
 
 76 
 
 morning it blew a furious 
 
 
 
 
 the morning a most violent 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 77 
 
 gale from the N. E. and 
 W. with much thunder and 
 lightning. The rain fell at 
 about half past four, and 
 
 
 
 
 storm of thunder and light- 
 ning from the N. W. with 
 much rain. 
 
 
 
 
 the wind subsided; it pro- 
 duced a charming coolness 
 
 12th 
 
 12 Noon. 
 
 76 
 
 W. very fresh. Still many 
 clouds. 
 
 
 
 
 in the air. At 12 wind 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 East. 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 74 
 
 N. W. clear evening; at sun- 
 set the sky looked rainy 
 
 6th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 74 
 
 W. clear sky, fresh and cold. 
 Fell ill, and could not ob- 
 
 
 
 
 with clouds all over. 
 
 
 
 
 serve. 
 
 13th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 67 
 
 N. beautiful clear weather, 
 and cold. 
 
 7th 
 
 
 
 Very clear weather: Halila 
 Peak, and mountains, seen 
 
 
 1 P.M. 
 
 73 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 remarkably plain. 
 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 70 
 
 N. fine clear night; cold: 
 
424 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c 
 
 1808. 
 
 -(Continued.) 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 o 
 
 ermo- 
 eter. 
 
 Wind and Weather, 
 
 
 
 £ s 
 
 
 Nov. 
 
 f s 
 
 
 Nov. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 slept with a blanket and 
 
 22d 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 65° 
 
 N. W. cold and bracing. 
 
 
 
 
 coverlid. 
 
 
 12 
 
 74 
 
 N. W. warmer. 
 
 14th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 64° 
 
 N. fine clear weather: saw 
 the first snows on the N. E. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 
 
 mountains. 
 
 23d 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 63 
 
 N. W. calm weather. 
 
 
 12 
 
 71 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 67 
 
 N. W. light breeze. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 72 
 
 Clear weather. 
 
 24th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 63 
 
 S. W. very cloudy, and ap- 
 
 15th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 12 
 
 64 
 72 
 
 N. W. delightful morning, 
 fresh and pleasant. 
 
 Some few clouds at the close 
 
 
 12 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 75 
 73 
 
 pearance of rain. Clouds 
 gathered at sunset in the 
 N. W. quarter. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 73 
 
 of the evening. The night 
 quite clear. The stars shin- 
 ing with peculiar brilliancy: 
 
 25th 
 
 6 A.M. 70 
 
 1 P. M. 67 
 
 10 P. M. 68 
 
 S. E. morning very thick, 
 and lightning in N. W. 
 Clouds all over portending 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 Orion, Arcturus, and the 
 
 
 
 
 storm and wind : N. breeze. 
 
 
 
 
 Pleiades quite splendid. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 26th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 67 
 
 S. E. blew very fresh in the 
 
 36th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 65 
 
 Calm. Fine morning. . 
 
 
 12 
 
 73 
 
 night from the N. E. and 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 75 
 
 Light airs. Warm. 
 
 
 
 
 N. W. with rain and occa- 
 sional thunder : in the morn- 
 
 17th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 67 
 
 Light airs, and calms. 
 
 
 
 
 ing blew fresh, and manv 
 clouds. N. W. 
 
 
 12 P. M. 
 
 75 
 
 Cloudy. 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 67 
 
 N.W. 
 
 18th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 68 
 
 Warm and pleasant. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 27th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 63 
 
 N. W. very cold ; slept with 
 
 
 12 
 
 77 
 
 S. if any thing, cloudy. 
 
 
 
 
 two blankets. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 74 
 
 Wind hot, and strong ; ap- 
 pearances of a southerly 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 65 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 
 
 
 wind. 
 
 28th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 60 
 
 S. 
 
 19th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 67 
 
 N. very light breeze. 
 
 
 11 A.M. 
 
 66 
 
 S. W. and shifting about. 
 
 
 12 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 76 
 76 
 
 W. in the evening much ap- 
 pearances of blowing, and 
 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 67 
 
 S. W. clouds all over, and 
 appearances of rain. 
 
 
 
 
 many clouds. 
 
 29th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 60 
 
 Snow seen very plain. 
 
 20th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 67 
 
 N. fine clear morning. 
 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 69 
 
 
 
 1 P. M. 
 
 75 
 
 Light breeze. 
 
 
 10 P. M. 
 
 67 
 
 S.W. 
 
 21st 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 67 
 
 N. W. fresh : night cold, but 
 very clear. 
 
 30th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 64 
 
 Southerly. Clouds all over: 
 at sun-set a cloud covered 
 Halila Peak: at night 
 
 
 12 
 
 74 
 
 N. W> 
 
 
 
 
 clouds rising from the N.E. 
 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 425 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c. 1808. (Continued.) 
 
 
 
 o .• 
 
 
 
 
 O J 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 £ 3 
 
 Is 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 -= S 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 
 
 
 Dec. 
 
 
 
 
 1st 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 64° 
 
 Westerly. Calm and serene. 
 
 10th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 69° 
 
 N. W. strong. Cold: haze. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 11 P. M. 
 
 73 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 1 P. M. 
 11 P.M. 
 
 70 
 67 
 
 Continued to blow fresh. 
 
 2d 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 G5 
 
 Easterly. Fresh from the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 mountains. 
 
 11th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 61 
 
 Cold morning. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 73 
 
 S. at noon, fine weather. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 69 
 
 S. W. very light. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 70 
 
 S. night clearer; light clouds, 
 evening hot. 
 
 12th 
 
 6 A. M. 
 2 P.M. 
 
 61 
 
 66 
 
 Cold. 
 
 N. W. light. 
 
 3d 
 
 7 A.M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 G5 
 73 
 
 East. Light breeze. 
 Westerly at noon ; warm day. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 70 
 
 Warm : evening pleasant. 
 
 13th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 60 
 
 East. Fine morning. Haze 
 over the mountains. 
 
 4th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 66 
 
 East. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 65 
 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 70 
 
 S. W. strong at 10 o'clock: 
 heavy clouds. 
 
 14th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 59 
 
 Northerly. Very fine clear 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 P. M. 
 
 65 
 
 weather, and cold. 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 74 
 
 Clouds in the evening: ga- 
 thered in the northward, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dispersed with a light squall 
 
 15th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 59 
 
 Clear weather. 
 
 
 
 
 and lightning. Cloud s from 
 the soutiiward at eleven at 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 63 
 
 S. W. sprung up, with a haze 
 
 
 
 
 night. 
 
 
 
 
 all over. Warm. 
 
 5th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 2 P. M. 
 
 70 
 73 
 
 S. a light squall at night : 
 morning cloudy, but clear- 
 ed up alter. 
 
 17th 
 
 9 A. M. 
 
 65 
 
 Alichangee. — S. W. Great 
 clouds in the evening por- 
 tending storm : during the 
 day very warm. 
 
 6th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 65 
 
 N. fine clear weather. 
 
 19th 
 
 6 A. M. 
 
 65 
 
 S. pleasant day. Great haze, 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 70 
 
 and the mountains just 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 60 
 
 looming. 
 A charming breeze. 
 
 7th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 61 
 
 E. in the morning, wind from 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 70 
 
 the land; delightful clear 
 
 20 th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 54 
 
 Fine clear morning, 
 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 68 
 
 weather. 
 
 
 
 
 Borazjoon. 
 
 8th 
 
 7 A.M. 
 
 64 
 
 N. rather calm. 
 
 21st 
 
 8 A.M. 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 11 P. M. 
 
 72 
 
 A most charming moon light. 
 
 
 1 P. M. 
 
 66 
 
 Dead calm under the moun- 
 tain : hot wind sprung up, 
 
 Oth 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 74 
 
 Calm. A warm day. Very 
 
 
 
 
 and curled up books, paper 
 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 72 
 
 fine suu-rise and sun-set. 
 
 
 
 
 and ivory instruments. 
 
 3 l 
 

 426 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
 
 Meteorological Journal, &c. 
 
 1808. 
 
 (Con 
 
 tinned.) 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 P H 
 
 Wind and Weather. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 2 a 
 
 Wind and Weather, 
 
 Dec. 
 
 
 
 
 Dec. 
 
 
 
 
 22d 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 51° 
 
 Danlakee. — This place, si- 
 tuated under the mountains, 
 
 27th 
 
 7 A. M. 
 
 39° 
 
 Very cold: fires in our tents. 
 Great coats. 
 
 
 
 
 is reckoned hotter than 
 Borazjoon. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 44 
 
 Di'sht-e-arjun. — West. Very 
 cold: snow in the moun- 
 
 23d 
 
 6 A. M. 
 
 51 
 
 Khisht. — S. cloudy all over. 
 
 
 
 
 tains, falling from very 
 thick clouds a little on the 
 
 
 12 
 
 61 
 
 Khaumauridge. — Latitude 
 
 
 
 
 plain. 
 
 
 8 A. M. 
 
 56 
 
 by meridional ohservation, 
 29°. 33'. 55". 
 
 Fine clear night. Orion more 
 beautiful than ever. 
 
 28th 
 
 7 P. M. 
 
 34 
 
 West. Worsted stockings 
 and three blankets. 
 
 24th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 44 
 
 Wind from the E. very cold. | 
 
 29th 
 
 7 P. M. 
 
 30 
 
 Khone Zenioun. — Freezing 
 in the tents with a fire in 
 
 
 9 P. M. 
 
 54 
 
 Kauzeroon. — Clear and beau- 
 
 
 
 
 them. 
 
 25th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 42 
 
 tiful weather. 
 
 
 2 P. M. 
 
 47 
 
 Bagh shah Cheragh. — West. 
 Snow fell, and water strong- 
 ly frozen. 
 
 26th 
 
 6 A.M. 
 
 40 
 
 E. cold. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 P. M. 
 
 56 Vale of Abdovi. 
 
 30th 
 
 2 P.M. 
 
 45 
 
 Shiraz. — Fine clear weather. 
 
 
 8 P. M. 
 
 45 Light clouds. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 AbADEH, village of, p. 150 
 
 Abbas, Shah, p. 163. 165, 166. 168. 175. 180. 213. 267, 
 
 268, 269. 271. 287. 290 
 Abbas Mirza, the Heir Apparent of Persia, p. 109. 
 
 241, 242. 252. 266 — character and anecdotes, p. 
 
 279-84. 303. 307. 366 
 Abdoui, valley of, p. 93 
 Abdui. Assiz(Saood ibn Abdool UzzEEn) chief of the 
 
 Wahabees, p. 222 
 Abdult.a Aga, JIusselim of Bussorah, p. 12 
 Abdulla Aga, a rebel Courd, p. 310. 315 
 Abdulla Khan, pro-JVfehmander, p. 122 
 Aboui.la Resoul, Sheik of Bushire, p. 10, 11, 12 — 
 
 history of, p. 15 — 28 
 Abhar, town of, p. 956 
 Aderbigian, silver mines, p. 238 — boundaries enlarged, 
 
 p. 266 — revenue, p. 284 
 Administration of the provinces of Persia, p. 49 — of 
 
 the districts, p. 235 — offices sold, p. 237 
 Adventure at Pool Dal! auk, p. 181 — at Alwar, p. 318 
 Afghans, p. 33. 50. 153. 155. 168 
 Afsiiars, p. 240 
 Aga, a Tartar title, p. 235 
 Aga Besueer, the Queen's chief eunuch, p. 104. 
 
 118 
 Age Kemal, village of, p. 176 
 Aga Khan, p. 148 
 Aga Mahomed Khan, King of Persia, p. 181.211.214. 
 
 218.221. 238, 239. 242. 267. 290 
 
 Agajik, village of, p. 305 
 
 Agatch, Turkish measure, p. 305 
 
 Agalch degnis, " Sea of Trees," p. 359 
 
 Agi, river of, p. 293 
 
 Agriculture, at Bushire, p. 60. 78 — in Aderbtgian, p 
 
 300-1 — in Asia Minor, p. 331, 332. 334. 339 
 Agri dagh or Ararat, p. 306 
 Ahmadieh, village of, p. 76 
 Ak Caleh, p. 326. 330 
 Ala dagh, mountains near Diadin, p. 311 
 Albores, mountains near Teheran, p. 177. 183. 227, 
 
 228 
 All Capi gate, at Ispahan, p. 168 
 Alichangee, village of, p. 71 
 An Mirza, Prince of Shiraz — See Hossein Ai.i 
 
 Mirza 
 All Shah, village near Tabriz, p. 293 
 Ali Shah, ark of, at Tabriz, p. 278 
 Aliverdy Khan, bridge of, p. 213. 268 
 Alwar, adventure with the Aga of, p. 318 
 Amasia, approaches to, p. 347 — chambers in the rock, 
 
 p. 348 — people, 349 
 Ameenabad, p. 154 
 Ameen-ed-Dowlah, p. 185. 190. 195, 196. 199. 201. 204, 
 
 205. 211.213.239. 250, 251 
 Animals (of the Dashtistan) p. 62-7 — combats of, p. 119, 
 
 120. 209 
 Antelope, eyes of the, p. 369 
 Aqueducts, ancient, at Shapour, p. 86 — at Persepolis, 
 
 p. 131. 135 
 Arabah, wheeled cart, p. 300, 315. 326 
 3i2 
 
428 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Arab tribes on the coast of Persia, p. 16, 50 — at 
 
 Shooster, p. 252 — throughout the kingdom, p. 240 — 
 
 pirates, p. 371 
 Ararat, mountain of, p. 306. 308. 315 
 " Arctomys" of Linnaeus, p. 260 
 Araxes, river, now the Bend-emir, p. 124 — another, 
 
 now the Arras, p. 317 
 Ark, fortified palace, p. 207. 225. 259 
 Armaghaneh, village of, p. 262 
 Arched roofs at Derces, p. 85 — at Abadeh, p. 151 — at 
 
 Mesjid Madre Suleiman, p. 146 
 Armenian clergy in Ispahan, p. 161 — churches atJulfa, 
 
 p. 168 — merchant, p. 225 — people at Arz-rovm, p. 
 
 322 — inscription, p. 329 
 Arrian, p- 146 
 Arsingan, p. 332 
 Arubah, cape, p. 3 
 
 " Arz-beg" lord of requests, p. 69. 76 
 Arz-roum, p. 320 — ancient and present state, p. 322 
 Ashreff, the second Affghan king, p. 168. 175 
 Ashreff, town of, p. 288 
 Ashtola, island of, p. 4 
 
 Asher Khan, Persian Embassador in Paris, p. 334 
 Asparagus, wild, p. 330 
 " Asses Ears," points of land, p. 9 
 Aslerabad, p. 288 
 
 Astrology of Bushire, p. 69. 73 — of Tabriz, p . 291 
 Atesh Gau, p. 231 
 Attabek Shah, p. 102 
 Auk-kend, village of, p. 264 
 
 B 
 
 4 ' Backshish," vails, p. 323 
 
 Bagh Shah Chrragh, p. 97 
 
 Baghwarder, latitude near it, p. 152 
 
 Bahram, fort of King, p. 150 
 
 Bahrein, p. 52, 53. 62 
 
 Baibort, district of, p. 331 
 
 Bairam Ai.i Khan Cadjar, p. 100. 108. 122 
 
 Bairam, feast of the, p. 40 — Corban Bairam, p. 154 
 
 ■• Baklavah" cake of honey, paste, &c p. 324 
 
 Bakonba, p. 284 
 
 Baklegian, lake of, p. 124 
 
 Bakliar tribe, p. 240- 242 — body guard of the Prince 
 
 at S!:iraz,\). 110 — mountains, p. 160 
 " Balconah" customary present to an embassador, 
 
 p. 35 
 Balouch.es, from Crotchet/ to Cape Menzc, p. 5. 49, 50 
 Balouchestan,\>. 49 
 
 Bang, cape, p. 50 
 
 Barley, p. 262. 266 — open to the King's people, p. 256 
 Barnhill, the, p. 1 
 Bat/azid, city of, p. 306 
 Bayrack, p. 350 
 
 Bazars of Bushire, p. 57 — of Shiraz, p. 102 — of Ispa- 
 han, p. 170 
 Beards in Persia, p. 166 — dyed, p. 231 — process of 
 
 dying, p. 247 
 Bebehan, city of, p. 49 
 Beglerbegs, p. 49 — See p. 235 — of Ispahan, p. 160. 162 
 
 172 
 Benak, spice plant, p. 92 
 Bendemir, river, ancient Araxes, p. 51 — course of, p. 
 
 124 
 Bendes, p. 61 
 BenGieul, [of the Euphrates, see map] of the Araxes, 
 
 p. 317. 326 
 Bisgoush, mountains of, p. 270 
 Blacker, Lieutenant, p. 2 
 Blanket, Admiral, p. 33 
 Body-Guard, of the King, p. 242 
 Bokhara, blue beards in, p. 247 — Silver from, p. 2Stf 
 Boli, p. 357— forest of, p. 358 
 Bombay, departure from, p. 2 
 Bombareek, cape and rock of, p. 6 
 Boots in Persia, p. 246 
 Borazjoon, village of, p. 76 
 Bosnia, native of, p. 324. 340 
 Bottle of sugar candy broken before the Envoy's horse, 
 
 p. 84.97. 124 
 Bridges at Ispahan, p. 162. 213 
 Broad cloth, excellence of English, p. 355- 
 Brodies from Monze to Cape Jasques, p. 5 
 Bruce, Mr. Assistant Resident at Bushire, p. 10, 11. 32. 
 
 33.37. 51,52. 69.' 206, 218— sent to India, p, 219. 
 
 240 
 Buffalo s, p. 359 
 
 Bullion, price of in Persia, p. 238 
 Bund-emir Timoor, p. 124 — Bund Kohrood,\>- 177 — at 
 
 Ispahan, p. 213 
 Buonatarte, Treaty with Persia, p. 216 — conduct of 
 
 the Persians, p. 251 — his hospital at Malta, p. 368 
 Busheab, island of, or Khoshaub, p. 7 — pearls on the 
 
 shoal, p. 53 
 Bushire, arrival in the roads, p. 10 — landing in Persia, 
 
 p. 1? — militia of, p. 13 — history of the Sheik of, 
 
 chap. ii. p. 15-28 — description of the town, p. 56-8 
 Bustard, p. 61. 
 3 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 429 
 
 Bus lion, cape, mine and fort at, p. 51 
 
 C 
 
 Cadjar, dynasty of, p. 150 — tribe of, p. 241 
 
 Campbell, Mr. Surgeon to the Mission, p. 2 
 
 Captives among the Turcomans, p. 289 
 
 Cara-aineh, village of, p. 303 
 
 Cara-hissar, beautiful scenery, p. 334 
 
 Caraja, p. 332 
 
 Carajalar, p. 35 I 
 
 Carajol, p. 354 
 
 Caravanserai, p. 81, &c. — at Vezdi/chaust, p. 153 — at 
 
 Maxhood Bcggy, p. 154 — at Mayar, p. 157 — at Gez, 
 
 175 — at Saidabad, p. 272 
 Carpets, Persian, p. 166 
 Caspian sea, p. 290 — ships on, p. 287 
 Casvin, city of, p. 253-4 
 Catabee, Persian dress, p. 99. 245 
 Causeway (of Shah Abi as), p. 287, 358,360 
 Cavalcade, on the journey to Teheran, p. 69-70 
 Ceylon, pearl of, p. 53 
 Chahar Bagh, p. 162. 170 
 
 Chairs at Ispahan like those of Persepolis, p. 162 
 Ciiappan Oglu, p. 341. 346 
 Chappow, inroads of the Turcomans, p. 289 
 Chardin, p. 126. 129. 168, 169, 170-1. 206.230,243. 
 
 277 
 Charts, errors in the, Persian Gulph, Heather, p. 7 — 
 
 Macclber, p. 9. 373 
 " Char-warder" chief Muleteer, p. 70 
 " Chatters," running footmen, p. 37. 69. 212. 246 
 Chedaughee, tribe of, p. 268 
 Chehil-minar, (Persepolis), p. 129 
 Chehil-sitoon at Ispahan, p. 164 
 Chehil-ten at Shiraz, p. 105 
 Cuenan, story of Sheik, p. 105 
 Chenar tree, p. 104, &c. 
 Cherries in Asia Minor, p. 335. 338. 344 
 Chijlik, p, 330 
 
 " (hoppers,'' 1 couriers, p. 64. 181 
 " Chorbah" soup, p. 324 
 Christians, tomhs of ancient, p. 329. 357 — retreats of, 
 
 p. 240. 243 
 Chrysostom, St. John, p. 349 
 Chubar, town of, coast of Jtfekran, p. 5 
 Climates various in Persia, p. 49 — of Bushire, p. 61 — of 
 
 Teheran, p. 227-9 — see Appendix 
 Coals, in Mazanderan, p. 231 
 Coare, Mr. dies at Bushire, p. 47 
 
 Coflan-kou, mountain of, p. 267 
 
 Coinage in Persia, p. 238 
 
 Comana Pontica, p. 343 
 
 " Conchas," long trays, p. 116 
 
 Congoon, town and Sheik of, p. 7, 8. 49 — pearl bank, 
 
 p. 55 
 Constantinople, splendour of the scene, p. 363 
 Cookery of the Turcomans, p. 289 
 Copper, trade in, at Tocat, p. 345 
 Corbal,\>. 124 
 
 Corban Bairam, feast of, p. 154 
 Corbett, Capt. H. M. S. Nereide, p. 2. 11 
 Cormorants on trees, p. 64 
 Cotton atllallila, p. 59 — in Persia, 231 
 Colul, p. 76 
 
 Court of Persia, ceremonies of, p. 286 
 Cow dung as fuel, p. 251. 272 
 Cranes, p. 305 
 Cufic inscription at Reshire, p. 59 — at Rey, p. 233 — at 
 
 Sultanieh, p. 258 — on the bridge over the Kizzil-ozan, 
 
 p. 267 — at Mama Khatoun, p. 328 — at Arz-roum, 
 
 p. 322 
 Curdistan robbers, p. 303. 307. 310. 312. 315. 326, 32T. 
 
 330 
 Currimabad, ancient Corbiana, p. 233 
 Cypresses at Shiraz, p. 103, 104 
 Cyrus ? tomb of, p. 145 
 
 Danish establishment in the Gulph of Persia, p. 51 
 
 Darabgherd, note, p. 124 
 
 Dashtistan, p. 16. 48. 76-7 
 
 Dasti, district of, p. 39. 51 
 
 Daulakee, p. 77, 78. 82. 160 
 
 Davis, Capt. George, H. M. S. Sapphire, p. 2. 44- 64 
 
 Deerogha, p. 82 
 
 Dehnar, p. 179 
 
 Dehsis, p. 261 
 
 Deibeed, p. 147 
 
 Delhis of the Turkish army, p. 325. 327. 353-4 
 
 Delibaba, village of, p. 315 
 
 Demawend, mountain of, p. 177. 183. 231 — fables con- 
 nected with it, p. 232 
 
 " Dereea Kulzum" the Caspian, p. 290 
 
 Derees, town of, p. 84, 85 
 
 Dereyah, capital of the Wahabees, p. 222 
 
 Dcrveishes, p. 32 (Talamash, as a Dervei$h, p. 3S> 
 82. 104 
 
430 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dewan Khoneh at Shiraz, p. 108 — at Ispahan, p. 166 — 
 at Teheran, p. 188 — atSultanieh, p. 260 
 
 " Dherna" see note, p. 33 
 
 Diadin, town of, p. 309. 329 
 
 Diplomacy of Persia, p. 198-201 — publicity of, p. 216 
 
 Diu, Portuguese colours on the fort of, p. 2 
 
 Divers in the Pearl Fishery, p. 54 
 
 Division of time in Persia, p. 41 
 
 " Dochler" mountain, p. 93 
 
 Dog of the Balouches, p. 50 — Kqfla Dog, p. 64 
 
 " TyogooshelC slit cap, p. 150 
 
 " Do/ma/i," p. 324 
 
 Dome of the mosque at Sullanieh, p. 258 — domed build- 
 ings, p. 279 
 
 Dress of Persia, p. 243-8 
 
 " Dungaree" linen cloth, p. 26 
 
 Durand, guard house, p. 346. 357 
 
 Dutch painters in the service of Shah Abbas, p. 168 
 
 Duties of customs, p. 297 
 
 Dwarf wrestlers at Shiraz, p. 119 
 
 E 
 
 Earthquakes at Casvin, p. 254 — at Tabriz, p. 277, 278 — 
 at Tasouj, p. 297 
 
 " Eels''' or tribes, p. 288 
 
 Effendi, p. 20 
 
 Egmaun, port of, p. 44. 373 
 
 Elauts, encampments of, p. 77. 231. 262. 301. 304. 308 
 — reception in their tents, p. 308-9 
 
 " Elkhee chee" master of the mares, p. 304 
 
 Emik Aga, Governor of Arz-roum, p. 323 — created a 
 Pacha, 332 
 
 English letter from a Persian, p. 31 — compare, p. 
 203 
 
 Entertainments given to the Envoy by the new gover- 
 nor of Bushire, p. 73 — at Shiraz, by the Minister, 
 p. 111-6 — by the Mehmandar, p. 118 — at Ispahan, by 
 the Beglerheg, p. 172 — at Teheran, by the Prime 
 Minister, p. 194 — by the King, 207 — at Tabriz, by 
 the son of the Minister, p. 285 — at Arz-roum, by the 
 Governor, p. 323 — at Caraja, by the Aga, p. 333 
 
 Etiquettes of Persia, p. 285 
 
 Euphrates, sources of, p. 306 — eastern river, p. 309, 
 310, 31 1— western, p. 3?5. 3 l J9 
 
 European dress and discipline introduced into Persia, 
 p. 30. 32. 108. 184. 188. 207 
 
 Excavated rocks, p. 340. 313 
 
 Executioner, chief see Nasakehee Bashce 
 
 Extortion of the Dcrveishes, p. 32 
 
 Failee tribe, p. 240-2 
 
 Fakir, p. 194 
 
 " Fall" in Hafiz, p. 229 
 
 Farz or Farsistan, p. 7. 49 — administration of, p. 110 — 
 
 frontier, p. 153 
 Fasa, Bolouk and city of, p. 233 
 Fatme, tomb of, at Room, p. 180 — sister of Hossein, 
 
 p. 195 
 Fauces Hyreania> ? p. 287 
 Female household at Teheran, p. 225 
 Ferdousi, p. 186 
 Ferosh Bashee, p. 68. 70 
 Ferrajoula Khan, Nasakehee Bashee of the King, 
 
 p. 204. 207. 261 
 Filial respect in the East, see p. Ill — see at Tabriz, 
 
 p. 286 
 Fire-altar, p. 121 
 Fire temple near Pcrsepolis, p. 128 — at Mesjid Madre 
 
 Suleiman, p. 146 
 Fire-works at Shiraz, p. 113— at Ispahan, p. 172 — at 
 
 Teheran, p. 207. 210 
 Fire-eater at Shiraz, p. 1 12 
 Firman of Persia, p. 231 
 Firouzabad, ruins of, p. 234 
 Fleet of the Imauin of Muscat, p. 7, 8 — of the Joasmee 
 
 pirates, p. 44 
 Fly-flap, p. 126 
 Fox, white, at Bushire, p. 64 
 " Frangistoun," Europe, p. 193. 253 
 Frat, see Euphrates 
 
 Frenchman passing for a Derveish, p. 33 
 French in Persia, p. 10. 30. 42. 190. 123. 212 — French 
 
 treaty, p. 216 — dismissed from Persia, p. 218. 220 
 Fruit at Bushire, p. 61 — at Teheran, p. 230 
 Fursung, p. 171, &c. — see p. 149 
 
 Galen, authority of, in Persia, p. 230 
 
 Galley, Mr. Resident at Bushire, p. 50 
 
 Gardanne, General, p. 42. 219, 220 
 
 Gardens in Persia ; at Kauzeroon, p. 92 — at Shiraz, 
 
 p. 105, &c 
 Gate of the palace, busiiv ss transacted at, p. 210 
 Gauzir-seng, town near Teheran, p. 251-2 
 Genoese, works of the, p. 352 
 Ceredeh, p. 356 
 
 Germania, Ker mania, or Carmania, p. 49 
 " Germesir," p. 49 — again, p. 270 
 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 431 
 
 Geroustan, mountains of, p. 261 
 
 Gez, near Ispahan, p. 174 
 
 Ghilan, silk of, p. 231— language of, p. 288 
 
 Giaours, works of the, at Arz-roum, p. 322 — again, 
 
 p. 337 * 
 " Gika," ornament of rank, p. 208 
 Girid, game of, p. 77 
 
 Gombroon, ( Bender* Jbassay, p. 31), p. 31 
 Goudar, tribe of, p. 288 
 
 " Goulams," slaves of the King's body guard, p. 243 
 Goush Khoneh at Ispahan, p. 172 
 Grabs, Arab vessels, p. 8 
 
 Grampus, possibly the whale of Arrian, p. 50 
 Grass, common property in Persia, p. 339 
 Greek church at Arz-roum, p. 322 — inscription at 
 
 Nakshi Rustam, &c 
 Guadel, cape and town, p. 4. 50 
 Guebreabad, p. 177 
 Guebres in Persia, p. 234 
 Gulistan, p. 213 
 Gum Tragacanth, p. 231 
 Gumuck Khoneh, p. 332 
 
 " Gumrukchee," Collector of the Customs, p. 323 
 Guzarat, land of the, p. 2 
 
 H 
 
 Hafiz, tomb of, p. 104 — his odes sung, p. 114 — Der- 
 veish of the tomb, p. 143 — superstition connected 
 with his works, p. 229 
 
 ffaji Hamza, p. 352 
 
 Hakim, the governor of a city, p. 235 
 
 Halisse, crown lands of Persia, p. 238 
 
 Hallilah peak, p. 9 — village of, p. 59 
 
 Halys, river, p. 352 
 
 Ilamadan (Ecbatana, p. 233) Prince of, p. 208 
 
 Hamamlee, p. 355 
 
 Hannibal, tomb of, p. 352 
 
 Haooz Sultan, p. 182 
 
 Harem, the Podargus of Arrian, p. 52 
 
 Harem, royal, at Ispahan, p. 166 — at Teheran, p. 225 — 
 supplied by the Ameen-ed-dowlah, p. 239 
 
 Hares eaten by the Persians, p. 230 
 
 " Hashl-behesht.'''' eight Paradises at Ispahan, p. 163 
 
 Hassan Caleh, p. 317-8 
 
 Hawks at Bushire, p. 64-5 
 
 Head dress in Persia, p. 246 
 
 " Heft-ten" pleasure-house at Shiraz, p. 104 
 
 Henna, used in dying beards, p. 231 
 
 Herbert, Sir Thomas, p. 5, note, 137 
 
 Herring, from the Caspian, "King of Fishes," p. 230 
 
 Hieratemis, of Arrian, p. 52 
 
 Hodja, schoolmaster, p. 333 
 
 Honey of Kauzeroon, p. 93 — of Shiraz and Teheran, p. 
 
 230 
 " Hoobara," bustard, p. 61. 65 
 Horse of the Dashlistan, &c. p. 62 — of the Turcomans, 
 
 p. 62. 289 — character of the Arab and Persian 
 
 horses, p. 63. 82 — races, p. 210 — horses painted, p. 
 
 210 — horsemanship of the Prince Royal, p. 280 — of 
 
 the Persians and Turks, p. 281 
 Hospitality of the Turcomans, p. 289 
 Hossein, ceremonies of the death of, p. 194-7, see 
 
 p. 216 
 Hossein Ali Mirza, Prince of Shiraz, p. 109. 117. 192 
 
 — his present to the King, p. 208 
 Hot wind on the coast of Mekran, p. 6 — in the Gulph 
 
 of Persia, p. 7 
 Hot springs at Hassan Kaleh, p. 318— at Ilija, p. 325— 
 
 near Kuley Hissar, p. 338 
 Household of the King of Persia, p. 217. 239— female. 
 
 p. 225 
 Hummocks of Kenn, Gulph of Persia, p. 9 
 
 1— J 
 
 Jaffer Am Kuan, English Agent at Shiraz, p. 29 — 
 
 English letter from, p. 31 — character of, p. 43 — see 
 
 p. 189. 192 
 Jaffer Khan, King of Persia, p. 16 
 " Jan-baz" one who plays away his soul, p. 242 
 Janik, port of, p. 338. 341 
 Janizaries, p. 31 
 Jasques, cape, p. 6. 48, 49. 124 
 " Jelowdars," grooms, p. 64. 69 
 Jemidars of the Envoy's guard, p. 194 
 Jemsheed,p- 125. 129. 140. 167 
 Jemsheed's Harem, p. 142 
 Jenghiz Khan, portrait of, p. 167 — took Rey, p. 233 
 
 ■ — plundered Sultanieh, p. 259 
 Jerboa, p. 64 — description of, p. 65-7 
 Jewels of the King, p. 214 
 
 " Jezaerchi," men who use blunderbusses, p. 30 
 Joasmee Pirates capture the Sylph, are defeated by the 
 
 Nereide, p. 44-6. 58 — destroyed, see note at the end, 
 
 p. 371 
 Jones, Sir Harford, Envoy Extraordinary, passim, 
 
 see conduct throughout the negociations, p. 199- 
 
 203 
 Jooyum, district of tobacco, p. 19 
 
432 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Jouannin, M. p. 220. 264. 280 
 
 Jukes, Dr. p. 37. 52. 69. 229 
 
 Julfa, suburb of Ispahan, p. 168 
 
 Jusuff, Pacha, Grand Vizier, p. 336. 338. 341 
 
 Ibrahim, Hajee, Vizier of Aga Mahomfd Khik, p. 
 
 211.210 — put to death by the present King, p. 221 
 Ibrahim Pacha, governor of Bayazid, p. 306 
 Ice (reservoir of) at Shiraz, p. 123 — at Teheran, p. 
 
 228 
 Ichthyophagi, on the coast of Mekran, p. 50 
 Ilija, warm springs at, p. 325 
 Imaum, parish priest, p. 333 
 Indian figures at Shapour, p. 90 
 Indigo in Persia, p. 231 
 Inscriptions at Tahrie, p. 51 — at Reshirc, p. 59 — at 
 
 Shapour, p. 87 — at A'akshi Rustam, p. 126-7 — gilt at 
 
 Persepolis, p. 137 — ntJtfesjed Madre Suleiman, p. 144 
 
 — at Ret/, p. 233 — at Sultanieh, p. 258, see p. 263. 
 
 267 — at Mama Khatoun, p. 328 — at Cherkes, p. 355 — 
 
 at Boli, p. 357- see plate xxix 
 Introduction to the Prince at Sliiraz, p. 107 — to the 
 
 King at Teheran, p. 186 — again, p. 214 
 Inundation, p. 213 
 Irak, animosity of the people of, to those of Fars, p. 
 
 157 
 Iris, river, now the Tozzan Irmak, p. 343 
 Ish Agassi, master of the ceremonies at Shiraz, p. 100. 
 
 108 — at Teheran, p. 188 
 Isker Sou, village of, p. 34 
 Islands in the Gulph of Persia, p- 6. 52 
 Ismael Beg, a favourite at Shiraz, p. 1 18. 120 
 Ismael Br.G Damgaunee, a favourite at the Court of 
 
 Teheran, p. 216. 243 
 Ismid, ancient Nicomedia, p. 361 
 Ispahan, p. 159-173 — reception of the Envoy, p. 161 — 
 
 extent of the city, p. 161 — general view, p. 169 — 
 
 inundation at, p. 213 — people of, ridiculed at Shiraz, 
 
 p. 114 — character of, p. Ml 
 lspahanek, village of, p. 157. 159 
 Istakbal, p. 76, &c. (see p. 85, at Kauzeroon,) at Shiraz, 
 
 p. 97, &c. 
 Istakhar, distinct from Persepolis, p. 129 
 
 K 
 
 Kabob, roast meat, p. 324 — shops at Ispahan, p. 171 
 
 Kaduck, a liner cloth, p. 156. 231 
 
 Kalaat, dress of honour, p. 26 — at Shiraz, p. 120 — at 
 
 Teheran, p. 216 — numbers distributed by the King, 
 
 p. 205 
 
 Kalaat poshoon, near Shiraz, p. 123 
 
 Kaleoon, water pipe, p. 13, &c. bb—Kaleoon of state, 
 
 at Shiraz, p. 109 — at Teheran, p. 214 
 Kamchaucks, the, p. 290 
 
 Kamouncha, a species of violin, p. 113, see p^225 
 Kanauts, aqueducts, p. 147, &c. — making, p. 253 
 Kara Colagh, p. 330 
 Kara guzlou, tribe, p. 37. 122 
 " Kara Khader," black tents, p. 288. 302 
 Kara Sou, river, p. 325—- another, p. 337 
 Karatch, village near Teheran, p. 250 
 Kashan, p. 177— well at, p. 178, note— manufactures, 
 
 p. 231 — character of the people, p. 241 
 Katif, El, pearl bank at, p. 53 
 Kauzeroon, p. 83. 92 
 Kaveer, p. 182 
 Kelki Irmak, p. 337. 342 
 Kelounter, the revenue collector, p. 235 
 Kemeen, village near Persepolis, p. 143 
 Kcnn, Island, gold dust in the torrents, p. 52 
 Kerim Khan, Recent of Persia, p. 101— his works at 
 
 Shiraz, p. 101-7. 221 — treasures of, p. 238 
 Kerim Khan, bearer of the King's letter, p. 95 
 Ket Khoda, the chief of a village, p. 235 
 Khalcal, district of, p. 284 
 Khaloet Khaneh, private hall of audience at Teheran, 
 
 p. 188 — at Sultanieh, p. 260 
 Khan, a military title, p. 235 
 Khan, a caravanserai, p. 345 
 Khandaek, village of, p. 359— character of the people, 
 
 p. 360 
 Kharrack, island of, p. 53, 54. 69 
 Kharrack, town on the coast of Persia, p. 51 
 Khaumavidge, p. 83, 84 
 Kheleel Khav, Ilajee, p. 39 
 Khcnna, a dye, p. 231. 247 
 Khisht, plain of, p. 80, 81 
 Khoi, city and plain of, p. 298 
 Khona Kerguun, p. 147 
 Khoneh Khorreh, p. 148 
 
 Khorasftan, Prince of, p. 241, see Mesched, p. 208 
 Khoresser, (Gulph of Persia), p. 51 
 Khorremderre', p. 256 
 Khosh amedeed, p. 39. 96, compared with the Khosh 
 
 gueldin of the Turks, p. 313, seep. 189 
 Khosh aub (see Busheab, p. 7), near Bushire, p. 76 
 Khour-c-Shooteur, river, near Koom, p. 180 
 Kinar-a-gird, p. 182, 183. 250 
 King of Persia, marble throne, p. 188 — throne of the 
 
 

 INDEX. 
 
 433 
 
 peacock, p. 191 — appearance and character, p. 191 
 — dress, p. 192. 212. 214 — conversations, p. 190. 
 212. 215. 218, 219 — condescension and kindness to 
 the Envoy, p. 219-20 
 
 Kishmis, Island of, Gulph of Persia, p. 6 
 
 Kizzil Ozan, river of, p. 266. 287 
 
 Kohrood, town and valley of, p. 176 
 
 Komeshah, p. 155 
 
 Konar-a-tackta, p. 81 
 
 " Koolafrange," Frank's hat at Shiraz, p. 106. 117 — at 
 Teheran, p. 214. 218— at Sultanii-h, p. 260 
 
 Koom, city of, p. 179 — ruins a holy city, p. 180 — ma- 
 nufactures, p. 231 — see p. 289 
 
 Koran, village of, p. 251 
 
 Kuley Hissar, p. 337 
 
 Kulzum, see of, p. 290, note 
 
 Kummund, noose used in war, p. 242 
 
 Kunjurs, daggers, p. 112, &c 125. 215 
 
 Kuprigli, Grand Vizier, p. 358 
 
 " Kymack,'" clouted cream, p. 326 
 
 Lacs, tribe of the, p. 240 
 
 Landed property hereditary, p. 237 
 
 Landscape scenery, (see at Tabriz, p. 294,) at Mama 
 
 Looft Ali Khan, p 16. 181 
 
 Lycus, ancient, now the KeCki Irmak, p. 337 
 
 M 
 
 Maaden Kebbac, names at, p. 329. 344 
 
 Macis, mountain of Ararat, p. 306 
 
 Mahomed Ali Khan, Prince of Hamadan, p. 208 
 
 Mahomed Hassan Khan Karaguzlou, p. 37. 41 — 
 sent from Shiraz, p. 122 
 
 Mahomed Hossein Khan, Ameen-ed-dowlah, p. 166- 
 170-1 — his house, p. 184 — visits the Envoy, p. 185 — 
 receives the Envoy, p. 195. 199 — present to the 
 King, p. 208. 210, 21 1. 216. 221 
 
 Mahomed Hussein Khan Mervee, p. 188 
 
 Mahomed Jaffer, vice Governor of Buihire, p. 25, 
 26, 27. 38 
 
 Mahomed Khan, Mehmandar of Shiraz, p. 123 
 
 Mahomed Nebee Khan, Persian Embassador to Cal- 
 cutta, p. 23 — history of, note, p. 23 — Governor of 
 Bushire, p. 23. 25. 27. 71. 73. 75 
 
 Mahomed Zeky Khan, the Mehmandar, p. 42. 69. 118. 
 122 
 
 Maidan Shah, at Ispahan, p. 169 
 
 Malcolm, Brigadier General, p. 23. 31. 83. [p. 199.] 
 
 Malceat, original right of the crown, p. 236 
 
 Khaloun, p. 327— at Chiflik, p. 330— at Carajar, p. \ Malta, p. 318 
 
 331 — Cara Hissar, p. 334 — Kuley Hissar, p. 338 — Mama Khatoun, village of, p. 327 — tradition of its 
 
 near Nicksar, p. 341 — Coja Hissar, p. 353 — Boli. 
 p. 359 
 
 Langarood, village of, p. 179 
 
 Language of Persia, p. 262. 271. 288 
 
 Laristan, p. 49 
 
 Latin inscription at Armaghanih, p. 263 
 
 Le Brun, p. 106. 129. 133, 134. 136. 243 
 
 Letters from Jaffer Ali Khan in English, p. 31 — 
 from the King of Persia, p. 95. 149. 183. 219 — from 
 the King of England, p. 160 — from the Governor 
 General, p. 219 — letter from a Persian to the Envoy 
 in English, p. 203 
 
 Linn^us, note, p. 260 
 
 Lion of Persia, p. 62. 64 — at Shiraz, p. 120 — at Teheran, 
 p. 187 — combat with an ox, p. 209 — lion in stone 
 over a tomb at Derces, p. 85 — at Deshl-e-arjun, 
 p. 94 — at Komeshah, p. 156 — at Sihin Caleh, p. 257 — 
 at Khore, p. 301 
 
 Liquorice, wild, near Persepolis, p. 129 
 Loane, Mr. prisoner among the pirates, p. 44 
 " Lokmah," paste puff, p. 324 
 
 l.ooties, mountebanks, p. 209, 210 
 
 foundation, p. 328 
 
 Mama Selameh, p. 6 
 
 Manantour, village of, p. 32 9 
 
 Mandelsloe, p. 133. 136 
 
 Marble of Tabriz, p. 104, 105. 163. 278 
 
 Marcivan, p. 350 
 
 Mares, herds of, p. 263, 304 
 
 Marmot, p. 260 
 
 Mat-houses of Guadel, p. 5 
 
 " Maun," 7ilbs. p. 92. 110 
 
 Maxhood Beggy, p. 154 
 
 Mayar, p. 157 
 
 Mazanderan, p. 287 
 
 " Meals " clubs, p. 85 
 
 Medicine of Persia, p. 229 
 
 Medresse, Shah Sultan Hossein college, at Ispahan, p 
 
 163 — Medresse Jedeh, p. 164 
 Meer Sakee, p. 177 
 Mehmandar, office of, p. 36- 73- 293 — appointed to the 
 
 Mission, p. 42. 101 
 Mekran, coast of, p. 3-6. 49 
 Melons at Sayin, p. 17<* 
 
 3k 
 
434 
 
 INDEXC. 
 
 Mammeh Sunni, p. 82 
 Meraugheh, town of, p. 278 
 Merchants of Persia, p. 231 
 
 Merdasht, plain of, p. 49. 124— covered with antiqui- 
 ties, p. 125 
 Mesched, Prince of, p- 208 
 Meshed Omoun, p. 143 
 Mesjid Madre Suleiman, p. 144 
 Miauneh, village of, p. 266-70 
 
 Military establishment of Persia: at Shiraz, p. 110 — 
 
 at Teheran, p. 240— at Tabriz, p. 282— see p. 241— 
 
 and generally, p. 240— at Zengan, p. 261— military 
 
 qualities, p. 281. 366 
 
 Mineral springs, p. 78 
 
 Mines of silver, p. 238— of iron, p. 283— of lead, p. 
 
 284 
 Minou, on the Gulph of Persia, p. 49 
 Miri, p. 338 
 
 Mirza, hereditary title of Persia, p. 234 
 Mirza Abul Hassan, late Envoy to the Court of Lon- 
 don, p. 36. 149. 353. 364— history of, 220-3 
 Mirza Bozurk, minister at Tabriz,?. 282 
 Mirza Hassan, son of Mirza Bozurk, p. 285 
 Mirza Reza, Embassador to Buonaparte, p. 193. 
 
 216. 253 
 " Mirza of Nusserabad," p. 178 
 
 Moharrem, p. 173. 180. 188— ceremonies of, p. 194-7 
 Moll ah Suleiman, p. 315 
 Monze, cape, p. 5 
 " Moobarek" p. 6 
 Moodjdeh, p. 332 
 Moodjdehlook, p. 42. 93 
 Moran, cape, p. 3 
 Morghaub, p. 143. 147 
 Mosques of Shiraz, p. 102— of Ispahan, p. 170— of 
 
 Teheran, p. 225 
 Moss, village of, p. 329 
 " Moss," curdled milk, p. 252 
 Mountain Robbers, p. 83 
 Mourchelcourd, battle of, p. 175 
 " Mujlis," an assembly, p- 206 
 Mules, p. 353 
 Mullak alviote, p. 183 
 
 Muscat, Imaum of, p. 7— pearl trade of, p. 53 
 Music, p. 113, 111 
 Musseldom, cape, p. 6. 51 
 
 N 
 
 Naion, cape, p. 7— pearl shoal, p. 53 
 
 Naoir Shah, p. 16 — portrait of, p. 165 — victory of, 
 
 jp. 175 — death, p. 221 — treasures, p. 265 
 Aaikshi Rustam, (see p. 89), p. 125-9, see p. 201 
 JVuiptha, springs of, p. 78 — applied to the skins of 
 
 <camels, p. 78 — flame little calid, p. 113 
 JV.'arangisioun, green house at Ispahan, p. 167 
 JVuisakchec Bashee, chief executioner, office of rank 
 Hinder the Prince at Shiraz, p. 19 — under the King at 
 
 Teheran, p. 204. 207 — conduct to the Mission, p. 34 
 NavSR Oalah Khan, minister at Shiraz, p. 101, 102. 
 
 110. 117 
 Nautilus, cruiser, attacked by the pirates, p. 43 
 Aaizir, p. 201. 369 
 
 JS'c-garistan, summer palace at Teheran, p. 227 
 Neigociations begun at Bushlre, p. 29. 34. 37. 41 — at 
 .Shiraz, p. 117 — at Ispahan, p. 159 — at Teheran, p. 
 
 198-203, seep. 212-3. 216 
 Nierciat, M. p. 220. 280 
 JV'eshki character, p. 59 
 Xhebuhr, p. 16, note 133. 135 
 JV"iksar, ancient JVescaesarea, p. 342 
 Niitrous acid, p. 78 
 A^okara Khoneh, near Persepolis, p. 125 — at Ispahan, 
 
 p. 170 — at Teheran, p. 209 
 yioory tribe, one of the new-modelled corps, p. 30. 
 
 42 
 Niorooz, eve of, p. 204 — history and ceremonies of the, 
 
 p. 204-6, seep. 237. 240 
 Nd)Rooz Khan, master of the ceremonies at the Court 
 
 of Teheran,?. 184. 188 
 Ntowri, village of, p. 255 
 ymsscrabad, p. 178 
 
 O 
 
 Ohces, of copper, p. 345 
 
 Or^EARius, p. 136. 287 
 
 Oilivier, p. 16, note 
 
 Onnan, province of, p. 8 
 
 Omar, name of, p. 62 — Omar Coushen, day of, p, 249 
 
 Onnen of a serpent, p. 316 
 
 Ormuz, island of, p. 52 
 
 Oroumi, town of, p. 305 
 
 Osimanjik, town of, p. 352 
 
 Otour, river, p. 298 
 
 Otttf.r, p. 359 
 
 Oiuseley, Sir Gore, Bart. p. 36 
 
 Oxen, used in ploughing, p. 261. 275 — as beasts of 
 
 burthen, p. 300 
 3 
 
INDEX. 
 
 435 
 
 Pacha, mode of investiture, p. 332 
 
 Paintings in Persia, at Shiraz, p. 105, 106 — at Ispiahan, 
 
 p. 165. 167 — at Teheran, p. 192. 227 
 Pak-har, the servant of the Ket Khoda, p. 235 — psalaces 
 of the King at Shiraz, p. 107— at Ispahan, p. 16J4-8 — 
 at Teheran, p. 187- 226— at Sultanieh, p. 260 
 Palma Christi, at Shapour, p. 92 
 Partridges on trees, p. 64—" Toowee," desert partiridge, 
 
 p. 77 
 Pasagardos, p. 145 
 
 Passage of the mountains, p. 80. 82 
 Passangoor, -village of, p. 179 
 Pavilion of the clock, p. 170 
 Peacocks, favourites in Persia, p. 214 
 Pearl fishery, p. 44— described, p. 52-6— two kimds of 
 pearls, p. 53 — mode of speculation, p. 53 — diivers, 
 p. 54 — consistency of the pearl, p. 55 
 <; Peera Zun" mountain, p. 94 
 Peish-kesh, a tax, the " benevolence" of Persiia, p. 
 
 237 
 Peish-namuz, chief priest, p. 33. 40 
 Penmanship, importance of, in Persia, p. 217 
 Pennant, note, p. 260 
 Perth, near Khoi, p. 300 
 Persepolis, first view, p. 129— description, p. 12«9-137, 
 
 see p. 201 
 PersepolUan character, at Tahrie, p. 51 — at JMvsjid 
 
 Madr6 Suleiman, p. 144— at Fasa, p. 234 
 Persia, outlines of the geography, p. 48 
 Persian dress, p. 38. 243-8 — horse equipage, p. 38 — 
 horses, p. 62-3— riding, p. 77. 82— skulls, p. Ill— -na- 
 tional character compared with the Turks, p. 362-6 
 — their voyage, p. 367 
 Persian Secretary taken by the Pirates, p. 45 
 Pesani, city of, note, p. 4 
 Pigeons, abundance of, p. 123 — see p. 155 
 Pile Rudbar, pass of, p. 287 
 Pillau, p. 324 
 Plough near Bushire, p. 60 — near SultanUh, p. 2€1 — 
 
 near Tabriz, p. 275 
 Podargus of Arrian, p. 52 
 Poet, the chief, p. 185-6. 195 
 PoolDallauk, p. 180. 213 
 Pool Hajoo, at Ispahan, p. 170 
 Pool Khan, bridge over the Bund-emir, p. 124 
 Poplars, almost the only wood of Aderbigian, p>. 274. 
 
 277 
 Population of Persia, p. 155. 240— of Ispahan, jp. 171 1 Roselkeim, p. 44 
 
 3 K 2 
 
 — of Tabriz, p. 284 — of Khoi, p. 299 — of Jrz-roum, 
 p. 322 
 
 Portuguese establishments at Guadel, p. 4— at Cape 
 Buslion, p. 51 — at Re$hire,j>. 59 
 
 Posmee, cape, p. 4 
 
 Post-houses, established through the north of Persia, 
 p. 269-70— see p. 354— in Turkey, p. 357 
 
 Pour-bunder, in the Guzarat, p. 2 
 
 Presents, custom of, in Persia, p. 205. 36. 73. 101. 121 
 — anecdote at Komeshah, p. 156 — from the Prince 
 at Shiraz, p. 97 — again, p. 120 — from the King of 
 England, p. 186 — from Mirza Sheffeea, p. 194 — 
 from the King of Persia to the Envoy, p. 204. 215 — 
 to his court, p. 205 — presents to the King, p. 208 — 
 to the Envoy, p. 204 
 
 Princes of Persia, p. 121. 192. 210 — their numbers, p. 
 226 — their presents to the King, p. 208 — Prince of 
 Shiraz — see Hossein Ali Mirza 
 
 Purlun, p. 326 
 
 p. 119 — at Teheran, p. 
 
 Qujar, (see Cadjar), p. 241 
 Quoins, islands of the, p. 6 
 
 R 
 
 Races at Teheran, p. 210 
 liamazan, fast of, p. 40, 41 
 Rams, combat of, at Shiraz 
 
 208 
 Ranks in Persia, p. 234 
 Rate of travelling, p. 181 
 Rayats of Persia, p. 235 
 Reshire, ruins of, p. 10 — described, p. 58 
 Resht, manufactures at, p. 231 
 Resident's guard at Bushire, p. 58 
 Revenue of Persia, p. 236 — of Fars, p. 110 — of 
 
 Aderbigian, p. 284— of Khalcal, p. 284 — of Khoi, p. 
 
 299 
 Rey, ruins of, ancient Rhages, p. 232 
 Rhadars, stations of, p. 82. 96. 123. 296 
 Richardson, on the Norooz, p. 205-6 
 Road, ancient, p. 232 
 Rocknabad, stream of, p. 123 
 Rodo-dendron, p. 92 
 Rhohella, p. 160 
 
 Roman figures at Shapour, p. 87. 88. 90. 127 
 " Roo sefeed" " roo seeah," p. 31 
 Rope dancers at Shiraz, p. Ill— at Teheran, p. 208 
 
436 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 Russian war, p. 30. 93. 211. 255. 276. 291— prisoners 
 
 at Shiraz, p. 118 
 Rustam, p. 140. 201 
 
 Saatahad, pavilion of, p. 162 
 
 Sabanja, lake of, p. 360 — town, p. 361 
 
 Sacrifice of bullocks at Bushire, p. 75 — of a lamb in 
 
 Asia Minor, p. 341 
 Sader, a tax, p. 237 
 
 Sahat, measure of an hour, p. 305. 326 
 Sal ben Sal, pirate chief, p. 44 
 Salmas, sculptures at, p. 299 
 Salmon, from the Caspian, p. 231 
 Salter, Captain, p. 50 
 Salt soil, p. 174. 227. 293— salt desert, p. 179. 183, 
 
 184 
 Savock Bolagh, ancient Shererivan, p. 296 
 Sagim, village near Ispahan, p. 174 
 Sculptures at Shapour, p. 87-91 — at Nakshi Rustam, p. 
 
 125-8 — at Persepo/is, p. 129-36 — near it, p. 137-9 — 
 
 at Sultanith, p. 259 — at Salmas, p. 299 
 Scutari, p. 362 
 
 Sealy, Lieutenant of the Ternale, p 69 
 Sefer, month of, p. 213 
 Seffis, Princes of the house of, p. 153. 155. 157. 162. 
 
 165. 168. 175, 177. 230— works of, p. 227. 233. 254. 
 
 271-2. 268 
 Seidoun, village of, p. 142 
 Seiks, p. 50 
 
 Ser-aub, effect of the vapour, p. 294 
 " Ser-baz," one who plays away his head, p. 242 
 " Ser-kecheckchee," p. 242 
 Sertes, cape, p. 51 
 
 Sewuvd, village of, p. 142 — river of, p. 129. 137. 142 
 Siiah Thamas, p. 162 
 Shah Zade Frcng, p. 167 
 Shahec, lake of, p. 278. 294-5 
 Shapon-, river of, p. 82 — city, p. 84 — visited, p. 85 — 
 
 sculptures, p. 87-91 — they're, p. 91 — subterraneous 
 
 passages, p. 92 — sculptures compared with those near 
 
 Persepolis, p. 126, 127. 130, seep. 201 
 Shawls of Herman, p. 231 — of Cashmire, p. 246 
 Shebeslcr, town of, p. 295 
 Sheep skins, p 246 
 
 Sheik Ali Khan, one of the King's sons, p. 253 
 Sheik Nasr, of Eushhe, history of, p. 16 — mode of 
 
 summons to his standard, p. 17, 18. 77 
 Shem-Iroun, village of, p. 213 
 
 Sheridan, Mr. Thomas Henry, p. I, 2. 69 
 Shei/ahs and Sunnis, p. 57. 62. 157 
 Shegran, district of, p. 332 
 
 Ship-building, p. 283 — ships on the Caspian, p. 287 
 Shiraz, approach to, p. 97 — entrance, p. 100 — descrip- 
 tion of, p. 102-7 — departure from, p. 122— trade of. 
 
 p. 231 
 Shirley, Sir Robert, note, p. 5 
 Shoolgistoun, village of, p. 152 
 Shousler, city of, p. 221, 222. 231 
 Seah Daleh, village of, p. 257 
 Seah Dehan, village of, p. 257 
 Silk of Ghilan and Mazanderan, p. 231 
 Simmons, Captain, p. 58 
 Singular exhibition of a negro, p. 112 
 Sin Sin, caravanserai at, p. 179 
 Skeine, Captain, p. 52 
 Sleep, little necessary, p. 353 
 Smith, Mr. Hankey, Resident at Bushire, p. 33 
 Smoking in Persia, kaleoons, p. 13 — apparatus, p. 70 — 
 
 ceremonies, p. 286 
 Smyrna, p. 366 
 Soap wort, p. 183 
 " Sofra," p. 74 
 Soleiman, the Caleph, p. 145 — the Shah of Persia, 
 
 p. 230 
 Solomon, p. 149 
 Sonnini, on the Jerboa, p. 65-7 
 Soundings in the Gulph of Persia, p. 9 
 Sphinxes at PerscvoHs, p. 130. 133. 135 
 Spoons as a musical instrument, p. 113 
 Sports of the Bairam, p. 41 
 Springs under the sea, p. 52 
 Storm at Bushire, p. 60 — at Khona Korreh, p. 148 — in 
 
 Aderbigian, p. 302 — at Arz-roum, p. 326 — near Ca- 
 
 raja, p. 334. 337 — at Cherkes, p. 355 
 Success, frigate, p. 366 
 Sugar candy, bottles of, broken in honour of the Envoy, 
 
 p. 84. 97. 124. 143 
 Suliattith, ruins and tomb of, p. 257 — new city, p 259 
 Sunnis, p. 50. 57. 62. 157 
 Superstitions, of Indian sailors, p. 6— of Persia, p. 62. 
 
 213. 230— Hafiz, p. 229 
 Surat, pearl market at, p. 53 
 Surmek, p. 149 
 
 " Surujees" conductors, p. 357 
 Swallow, white, at Bushire, p. 61 
 Sweetmeats, p. 13. 72. 171, see p. 208 
 Smith, Major L. F. p. 1 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 437 
 
 Tabriz, city of, 276-9— marble of, p. 104, 105, 163. 
 278 
 
 Tahric, ruins and sculptures at, p. 51 
 
 Takhl-a-Kadjar at Shiraz,-p. 107 — at Teheran, p. 226-7 
 
 Takht-a-J a?nsheed,y>. 129 
 
 Takht-a-tovos ; throne of the peacock, p. 191 
 
 Takht-e-ravan, letter, p. 158. 161. 180. 187, 188 
 
 Talamash, M. singular story of, note, p. 33 
 
 Tamarisk trees, p. 76 
 
 Tamerlane, bund of, p. 124 — portrait of, 167 
 
 Tangistoun, p. 51 
 
 Tasonj, village of, p. 297 
 
 Tatars, p. 332. 356 
 
 Teheran, p. 180-2 — first view, p, 183 — description of, 
 p. 224 — unwholesome, p. 229 — contrasted with Con- 
 stantinople, p. 364 
 
 Tchmis? p. 231— qu. Tchmeh, p. 245 
 
 Tcngui Ali Acbar, near Shiraz, p. 106. 122 — near Sul- 
 tanieh, p. 257 
 
 Tengui Turkoun, mountain pass, p. 84 
 
 Tents, comforts of, p. 302 
 
 Terraced roofs at Arz-roum, p. 321 
 
 Thaubet, the, Governor of a town, p. 235 
 
 Theatre, r< mains of, at Shapour, p. 91 
 
 Theft, punishment of, in Persia, p. 204 
 
 Throne of the King of Persia, marble, p. 188 — of the 
 peacock, p. 191 
 
 Tigris, source of the, p. 325 
 
 Timber, mode of felling, p. 339. 359 
 
 Tiimur Beg, history of, p. 313 
 
 Tobacco, monopoly of, p. 19 
 
 Tocal, p. 344 
 
 Tomaun, nearly equal to a pound sterling, p. 21 
 
 Tomb of the son of Kerim Khan, p. 103 — «f Hafiz, 
 at Shiraz, p. 104 — tombs at A'akshi Ruslam, p. 125. 
 128 — at Persepolis, p. 132 — at Mesjed Madre Sulei- 
 man, p. 144 — tomb of Cyrus? p. 145 — of Shah 
 Reza, near Komeshah, p. 156 — tomb near Kohrood, 
 p. 177 — of Imaum Reza. p. 180 256 — of his sister, 
 p. 180 — of his son, 249 — of a wife of Imaum Hossein, 
 p. 233 — of Sin tan Mahomed Khodabendeh, at 
 Sullan'<6h, p. 257 — of ^hemsb, near Khoi, p. 300 — 
 ancient tombs at Moss, p. 329 — at Cherkes, p. 355— 
 at Bolt, p. 357 
 
 Tombs, the, islands, p. 6. 43 
 
 Tos>'a, p. 353 
 
 Tourchiz, capture of, p. 265 
 
 Tozzan Irniak, river, p. 343. 345 
 
 Trade of Persia, see p. 237. 239 
 Travelling, rate of, p. 181 — mode of, p. 292-3 
 Treasures of the King of Persia, p. 238. 265 
 Treaties signed, p. 201-3 — former treaty of Persia with 
 
 France, p. 216 
 Trebisonde, p. 322. 332 
 Tribes of Persia, p. 240 
 Tribute of Persia, p. 236-8- 240 
 Tumbling, p. 112 
 Tumuli, or Tape, p. 251 
 Turcomans, p. 77. 288-90 
 Turcomcn Cheyee, village of, p. 270 
 Turkhal, p. 345 
 Turkish soldiery, (see Delhi* Bayrack), p. 358 — navy, 
 
 p. 364 — entertainment, p. 323 
 Turks and Persians, p. 362-6 
 Turpah Caleh, siege of, p. 312 — reception at the castl« 
 
 of, p. 313-4 
 
 V 
 Fan, city and lake of, p. 296. 303 
 Verdistan, cape, p. 9. 43 — shoal of, p. 53 
 Vincent, Dr. p. 3. 52 
 Vines in Persia, p. 251. 253— mode of cultivation at 
 
 Tabriz, p. 277 
 Vishna, sour cherry, p. 338 
 Visit, Persian, p. 13.39-40. 72 
 Volcanoes, near Saidabad, p. 273 — near Tabriz, p. 277 — 
 
 volcanic matter, p. 305 
 
 W 
 
 Wahabees, p. 52. 222. 372 
 
 " fVaky," landed property in Persia, p. 237 
 
 H'allz, p. 365 
 
 Water of Bushire, p. 60 — of Teheran, p. 229 
 
 Water-cresses, p. 227 
 
 Water-mill, ancient custom attached to, p. 240 
 
 Weather at Bushire, p. 61 — at Teheran, p. 230 — at Arz- 
 roum, p. 326 
 
 Well, p. 175 — marvellous at Kashan, p. 178 
 
 Wheeled carriages, p. 300 
 
 Wigs of the ancient Persians, p. 89 
 
 Willock, Cornet Henry, now Lieutenant Commander 
 of the Body Guard, p. 1, 2. 37. 69. 118. 187 
 
 Wind chimnies at Bushire, p. 57 
 
 Wine in Persia, p. 166 
 
 Wolves, p. 359 
 
 Women of Bushire, p. 61 — of Diadine, p. 310 — gene- 
 rally, of Persia, p. 368-70 — education of, p. 369 — 
 beauty, p. 368 
 
438 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Wood, scarcity of, (in the Gulph), p. 141 — at Ispahan, 
 p. 160 — in Aderbigian, 272 — near Arz-roum, p. 326 — 
 abundance of, in Asia Minor, p. 334, &c. p. 359— 
 compare, p- 354 
 
 Wrestlers; at Shiraz, p. 119 — at Teheran, p. 209 
 
 " Yakn6," Irish stew, p. 324 
 
 " Yaourt" curdled milk, p. 252 
 
 " Yeduk" a led horse, p. 38 
 
 Yezd, marble of, p. 188 — shawls and stuffs of, p. 208 
 
 Yezd, Prince of, p. 208 
 
 Yezdiekhaust, p. 152 — town and valley of 
 
 Yezid, the Caliph, in the celebration of the Mohar- 
 
 rem, p. 195-6. 216 
 Youngali, village of, p. 311-2 
 Yusuff Beg, at Shiraz, p. 101— query Ismael Beg, 
 
 p. 118. 120 
 
 Zaianderood, river of Ispahan, p. 160. 168. 1T4 — over- 
 
 flows, p. 213 
 Zain Labadeen, Brother of Hossein, p. 196 
 Zain Labadeen, Chief Secretary and Private Minister 
 
 to the Prince at Shiraz, p. 100. 117. 122 
 " Zapti Shah," property forfeited to the King, p. 237 
 Zaul Khan, Governor of Khist ; his history, p. 80 
 Zauviih, village of, p. 301 
 Zebra at Vienna, p. 193 
 Ziera, village of, p. 82 
 Zenana, p. 166 
 Zengan, village of, p. 261 
 Zergoon, plain and town of, p. 124 
 " Zomboorek," artillery on camels, p. 108 — at Teheran, 
 
 p. 210 
 Zoroaster, works of, p. 234 
 Zund, dynasty of the Royal Family of, p. 150. 243 
 
 THE ENI>. 
 
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