> . „ . . I * \ l* / 4 M * - ■ ■ • • - Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/voyageperformedbOOsand - ■ X ft f t» . V • ’ > ♦ * * . N 9 JOHN EARL OF SANDWICH. // 0///0 .//// ///< ////’'/<■■> f/Z/f.j ///<”// /n/er t /// //////■! //■> ////v// t ■/// J an * I2 > Lieutenant-general. 1772, May 25, General. the MEMOIRS OF THE AUTHOR’S LIFE. the progrefs of the treaty, he returned for a fhort time to England, where he arrived in June 1747, and embarked again, July the 20th, witli the fame powers. In 1748, the definitive treaty at Aix-la- Chapelle was concluded, and figned Odt. the 7th. The magnificence with which he fupported the high character under which he then appeared, the zeal, activity, and addrefs, with which he conducted the negociations, can no otherwife be fo fairly eftimated, as by the correfpondence, which paffed between his Lord- fhip and his Majefty’s miniflers. The Editor takes the liberty of tranferibing one letter out of many to the fame purport, from a perfon, who bore a great fhare in thofe tranfaftions ; as it fhews lo flrongly, how highly his Lordfhip’s fervices were at that time efleemed by thofe mofl capable of appreciating their value. “ My Lord, <{ May 29, i 74 g. “ I had this day the honour of your Lordfhip’s letters (of April tc the 30th, and May the 5th N. S.) and cannot let the poll return “ without giving you double thanks for the happy end you have et put to our mod: dangerous fituation, and then for your kind “ manner of communicating it to me. We have, all of us, perfons “ that will mifreprefent us. I hope, and believe, your Lordfhip hag “ as few of thofe backbiting enemies as mofl: people. One piece of yap Uvae ik avbgw ttci; :T; clyxt «r*», o tb? wgioiiXas iav Kgccir,cru A?i yap viol's =vop;i H; x^a.Tr,aat run T clvctn'iu Tv ttoXei ira.^ vj/itv 7r t -«TTEi! Or a* b, pi joiv r, Stcc TVTtif ax ill T. Tuv Oi'jtTui) yttipOstif ayiufzu vsiv t>f*a? eixotuj :v round with a fpirit and efFeCt never felt before, till every body was fummoned by a fignal to the opening of the performance. This always laded till fupper was on the table: after which catches and glees were renewed with the fame hilarity as in the earlier party of the day ; and the principal fingers generally retired to red after a laborious exertion for about twelve hours. His Lordfhip condantly animated the whole by his own perfonal afiidance, keeping every body in the bed order, and in the bed humour ; fubmitting him* felf at the fame time to the difeipline of the orchedra, with the mod fcrupulous obedience. Thefe meetings were continued for feveral years with unrivalled fplendor and fedivity. But the fituation of public ad'airs at length Tl11 abcut the year calling liis Lordfhip’s entire attention to the great department over 1773. which he then prefided with fo much honor to himfelf and ad- vantage to the nation, it became impodible for him to devote fo much time to the entertainment of his friends in the country, as would have been necedary for carrying on the performances with their ufual perfection. They were therefore difeontinued : but the me- mory of them is dill cherifhed with enthufiafm by all, who ever had the liappinefs of adiding at them, and will expire only with life itfelf. I cannot conclude this article without obferving, that though his Lordfhip’s difeharge of the public duty necedarily abridged his refidence in the country, yet it did not in any degree di- minidr his zeal for his favorite art. As a proof of which he foon afterwards took a leading part in laying the foundation of the Concert of Antient* Mufic, which was framed, as nearly as circum- ^Tottenham dances would admit, after the model of the Hinchingbrook meeting. Court Ro:id - And it is but judice to his memory to acknowledge, that the cele- e 2 brated MEMOIRS OF THE AUTHOR’S LIFE. brated performances at Weftminfter Abbey owe much of their fplendor, and the order with which they were conducted, to the unremitted exertions of his indefatigable mind ; whofe powers on this, as well as on other occafions, feemed to enlarge themlelves in proportion to the magnitude and difficulty of the enterprizes, in which he was engaged. Such were the elegant embellishments of his domeftic plan. If we contemplate his Lordfhip in a higher point of view, we fee in him an ufeful, able, and upright Juftice of the Peace. He poffeffed in an eminent degree thofe qualifications*, which have been juftly confidered as requisites for the due difcharge of this important office : “ a quick, clear, and good understanding ; a perfect know- u ledge of the world ; a competent acquaintance with the laws “ and eonftitution of his country; a love of juftice; and a fpirit of “ .moderation above all, a perfedl indifference to either party brought before him; a quality indifpenfable in the adminiftration of juftice. To thefe he added, what indeed is infeparably connected with the laft mentioned qualification, “ an entire and rigid abfti- “ nence from every thing, which bore even the moft diftant appear- “ ance of profit to himfelf,” He feldom failed to attend the Quarterly Seffions, and the Judges at the Affizes, by whom he was always received with the greateft refpedt. He never Spared himfelf cr thought any trouble too great, where the good of Society and the Service of the country were concerned. By this liberality of fpirit, and purity of Sentiment, which commanded the refpedt and con- fidence of the people, he was enabled to execute the truft repofed in him more effectually for the benefit of the community. * Juftice of the Peace's Manual, by a Gentleman of the Commiffion, Leicefter, 1771- 2. The. MEMOIRS OF THE AUTHOR’S LIFE. XXXVll The further we proceed, the more will our efteem for the noble Earl be excited. His conftant attend mce with his family and domeftics on divine worfhip, in his parilh church at Huntingdon, was truly exemplary. He wxis fcrupuloufly punctual in obferving the Rated times of fervice : “ it being an invariable maxim with “ him,” as he expreft'es himfelf to one of his friends, “ never “ to fuffer an individual, much lefs a congregation, to wait for “ him.” It has been reported by fome, who were certainly very little acquainted with his Lordlhip’s way of thinking, that he held the Clergy in little or no eftimation. Let him fpeak for himfelf, and the Editor is allured he fpeaks the real feelings of his heart *. “ I * Speech on “ hold the interefts of the Clergy to be lacred ; as facred as any of Bill, March “ thofe of your Lordfhips : and I fhall always think it one of my l/bu “ firft duties to do every thing in my power to fupport thofe inte- u refts, and to contribute to the honor and welfare of the minifters of that religion, in which I w r as born and bred.” Many calum- nies equally unjuft were thrown upon the noble Earl : but they have all died away ; and his name will defeend to pofterity in its true colours ; never failing to raife, wherever it is received, the warmeft. fentiments of love, efteem, and admiration. Lord Sandwich was in every relation of life truly amiable. He was a good and affectionate father, a kind matter to his fervants, moft of whom were known to live in his fervice many years ; and fome at this day remain in the family, maintained under the pro- tection of the prefent Earl. They, who w r ere in the habit of living with him, had every day occafion to obferve and admire the fweet- nefs of his temper ; which fhewed itfelf in continual acts of kindnefs and benevolent attention to all around him. His Lordfhip’s heart was ever open to the exigences of the diftrefted ; and at all times moft xxx via MEMOIRS OF THE AUTHOR’S LIFE. moft ready and willing to adminifter relief ; which he was the more enabled to do by his influence and intereft, when in power, than in his individual capacity ; his patrimonial eftate, particularly in his early days, being too narrow to allow the exertion of his benevo- lence in the extent, which he wifhed. He was, however, as it were, inftinctively difpofed to relieve the miferies of life, in whatever fhape they prefented themfelves to his notice. Numberlefs inflances crowd upon the Editor’s recollection of the happy confequences produced by the habitual exercife of thefe focial virtues. No man was ever more beloved by his acquaintance, friends, and relatives, than Lord Sandwich. But his benevolence was not confined to perfons of this defcription only ; it extended to others, who, on the various contefts in which he was engaged, oppofed him with much vehemence, in the purfuit of objects, which he had moft at heart. So placable was his difpofi- tion, that, when the contefl: was over, he rendered to many of them cflential fervices ; fo open to reconciliation, that on the flighted; overtures he forgave even thofe, who, after having received from him the higheft obligations, were molt forward to affift his enemies, in the virulent attacks fo repeatedly made on him while in office. Ingratitude, though too common, it is feared, amidfl: the conflids of contending parties, mull be confidered as at all times odious and unpardonable. It appears with aggravated deformity, when exer- cifed towards a man fo far from deferring fuch treatment as Lord Sandwich ; who was remarkably Heady and conftant in his friend- fhips, and ever kept his promife inviolate. The Editor is happy to relate that his Lordffiip was in a high degree compenfated for the ill behaviour of too many, whom he ferved, by the liberal fenti- ments of others ; who acknowdedged with gratitude the obligations which they were under, and were well difpofed to make every return in MEMOIRS OF THE AUTHOR’S LIFE. XXXIX in their power. Some, it is well known, were even magnificent in their retribution. Lord Sandwich, after his retirement, at times attended parlia- ment, and, as has been obferved, occafionally fpoke. At Hinching- brook, his favorite refidence, he lived in his ufual habits of elegant hofpitality ; kept up an agreeable intercourfe with his neighbours ; and was frequently honored by the company of refpedlable and noble friends from a difiance. He Rill continued to a9 when you are near, they fall fliort of your expe&ationsr The town Medina. is fituated at the^ foot of a hill, is tolerably well built, and not ill peopled, there being reckoned, including the fuburbs, between 50 and 60,000 inhabitants. The king’s palace, which is fituated upon the fea-fhore, being unfinished and kept in but bad repair, is nothing very remarkable. There are however, forne buildings within the city very well worth obfervaticn ; namely, the church of the The- atin Friars, and the convent of the Jefuits, which latter has the advantage of a very beautiful fituation. On the mountains behind the city are three imall forts of but little confequence ; but what is of very confiderable Strength is the citadel, the works being well difpofed, in good condition, and well furnijfhed with men and ar- tillery. It is without doubt the moil confiderable place in all Sicily, being fo fituated as to command the paffage of the freights. We had here the malicious pleafure to fee the Spaniards fill fiShing up the cannon and remains of thofe flips, that were deftroyed in this port by Admiral Byng. Thirty leagues from Medina is the town of Augusta, formerly Augusta. named Ziphona. It was fortified by the Emperor Frederick the Second. Hither the Knights of Malta betook themfelves after the lofs of Rhodes, till they were declared matters of the ifland of Malta. This city has a very good port, though little or no trade ; all the commerce of thefe parts being carried to Medina. At a fmall diftance hence is the city of Catanea, a regu- Catanea; lar and well-built town, having been raifed from the ground fince the terrible cataftrophe, that happened to it in the year 1692, when the whole city was deftroyed by an eruption of Mount iEtna, which involved alfo in the fame ruin the city of Augutta, d 2 20 VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Catanea. Augufta. Mount JEtna, or as it is now called Mount Gibel, is in _ the neighbourhood of Catanea. It at prefent is very peaceable, continuing only to breathe forth a gentle fmoak j the top of it, upon account of its exceffive height, has been for many ages, not- withftanding the heat, that muft necelfarily arife from the lulphu- reous exhalations, entirely covered with fnow. I think I cannot give a better defcription of it than by tranfcribing the words of an ancient poet, which cannot fail of giving an exa idea of its pre- fent condition. * c Sed quanquam largo flammarum exaeftuat intus Ti ;ij l t '[ ’ ’ I ■' 7 U €t Hinc Drepani me portus, & illaetabilis ora “ Accipit*.” Virg. lib. iii. 707. It is now a pretty large city, tolerably well peopled, and enriched by a very confiderable exportation of fait. Near the fea-fhore is Handing an ancient tower, which the inhabitants, refolving to have fome remains of that hero, affirm to have been built by jEneas. Over againft the city are feen three fmall iflands, the one called Levenza, twelve miles round ; the fecohd Favignana, eighteen ; and the other, Maretimo, has thirty miles in circumference. They are all defended by fmall forts, to fecure the inhabitants againft the Turkifh corfairs, who frequently infeft thofe parts. Having taken our leaves of Sicily, after a very profperous paflage of five days, we came in fight of the Peloponnefus, now called the Morea. It is a peninfula almoft circular, of about 600 miles in circumference, joined to the continent by an ifthmus no more than four miles broad \ whence I cannot think it fo great an * “ At length on fhore the weary fleet arriv’d, **" Which Drepanum’s unhappy port receiv’d.” Pitt. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. an hyperbole of Statius as it is generally reprefented, when he More a. fays, ^ ~ “ In mediis audit duo littora campis*.” Theb. i. 335, for, without making allowances for the didtion of poetry, one might be very eafily fuppofed to have heard the roaring of the fea for the fpace of two miles. The form of the peninfula is likened to the leaf of a plane-tree by Dionyfius in his Periegefis ; the ifthmus being compared to the ftalk, and the many gulphs, that are on each fide to the incifions, which are feen in the leaf. It received the name of Peloponnefus from Pelops, foil of Tantalus ; who bringing an army from his native country, Lydia, rendered himfelf matter of the whole peninfula. It was governed a long time by his defend- ants ; but being led on by the fame fpirit of liberty, that at once Ipread itfelf over all Greece, it abolifhed the monarchical govern- ment, and formed itfelf into fix republics ; thofe of Achaea, Elis, Mettenia, Arcadia, Lacedaemon, and Argos. The principal cities of the firft were Corinth and Sicyon ; of the fecond Pifa, fituated on the river Alpheus, famous for the celebration of the Olympic games. In Mettenia were Meflene, Pylos, Mothon, and Corone j and in Arcadia, Tegea, Stymphalia, and Megalopolis, the birth-place of Philopoemen and Polybius. The moft noted places in Lacedae- monia were Sparta, Amyclas, the river Eurotas, and cape Taenarus; and in Argos, the capital city of the fame name, famous for the 1 temple “ And hears the murmurs of the different fliores,” Pope* E 2 VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. temple of the goddefs Juno, to whom it was particularly facred. There were befides, Mycenae, Nauplia, Traszen, and Epidaurus, the favourite city of iEfculapius. The inhabitants of the Peleponnefus were ever efteemed as the moll warlike people, and the braveft foldiers of all Greece ; efpecially the Spartans, whofe many great actions are too well known to have any occafion to be mentioned in this place. The firft part of this country, that we diftinguifhed, was the city of Modon, in the limits of Mefienia, a place of great anti- quity. According to Paufanias, it was called Pedafa before the time of the Trojan war, but changed its name to that of Mothon, which was given it by Mothon, the fon of iEneas, who came thither after that celebrated expedition, in company with Diomede. There w r as anciently to be feen in this city the temple of Minerva Anemotis, or the protedlrefs againft ftorms. It was ere&ed by Diomede in order to defend the city againft the violence of the winds, which is frequently very dangerous in thefe parts, who at the fame time built another temple, and dedicated it to the goddefs Diana. The city ftill maintains its ancient name ; for the modern Greeks pronouncing the A like 0, to this day call it Mothon, though they write it Modon. Continuing along this coaft, you come up with a cape anciently called Acrites ; within which, at fome diftance from the mouth of the river Pamifus, under the mountain Timathus, is fituated the city of Coron. It was originally called Epea ; till the The- bans, upon introducing the Meflenians anew into the Pelopon- nefus, who had been driven out by the Lacedaemonians, ordered their general, Epimelides, to re-people it, and he changed its name to Gorone, calling it after a city of Baeotia. There were formerly to be feen there three temples j the firft confecrated to Diana Nutrix, the VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. 29 the fecond to Bacchus, and the other to iEfculapius. In the market place flood a brazen ftatue of Jupiter Salvator; and in the citadel one of Minerva, holding in her hand a raven ; where was alfo to be feen the tomb of Epimelides. At prefent there are no fort of remains of any of thefe temples, and nothing to be feen but the de- folation it has fuffered from the hands of the Venetians and Turks, to whom it now belongs, together with all the reft of the Morea. About ten leagues from hence, on the oppofitc fide of the Sinus Mefleniacus, is Cape Mat a pan, called by the Ancients the Promon- tory of Tsenarus, from a perfon of that name, whofe tomb, ac- cording to Paufanias, was in his. time to be feen at Lacedasmon. The fame author mentions feveral antiquities, that were then to be feen on this promontory ; and among others a brazen figure of a man riding on a dolphin ; which is mentioned in Herodotus to have been offered up as a vow by the poet Arion, after his mira- culous prefervation by the affiftance of the above-mentioned animal. Beneath were two harbours, the one called Achilleus, and the other Pfamathus ; and on the fummit a temple of Neptune, in a grotto, at the entrance of which was a ftatue of that deity. It is in allufion to this temple that Statius, in the following paffage, mentions that god as retiring into one of thefe ports to reft his horfes, wearied with the fatigues of the lea. This grotto was reckoned by all the Greek poets the entrance of hell, as the cavern near the lake of Avernus was by the Latin ones. Statius has,, however, differed in this par- ticular from the reft of his countrymen : fince he makes Mercury afcend from the lhades below by the paffage of Tsenarus; upon which he takes occafion to give an accurate defcription of the place. i( Eft CORON. Matapan. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. “ Eft locus, Inachi^ dixerunt Tamara gentes, be initiated into the new ones : this was accordingly put in. exe- cution, and the folemnities ever after obferved yearly in this temple, whereas the f^eyaXoi juvg’ij ohx were celebrated at Eleufis. The uvg-r^ia in procefs of time became a preparation to the admiflion into the | uiyciXcc, none being admitted into the great ones without having palled their initiation in the lefs. Near this temple, juft without the bed of the Iliflus, is the foun- tain Callirhoe, to whofe nymphs the Athenians paid particular ho- nours. It was beautified, by Pififtratus, and its waters divided into Athens. nine VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. nine channels ; whence, according to Thucydides, it took the name of Emeu cpwos. Hence the poet Statius fpeaks of it in the following manner : “ Et quos Callirhoe novies errantibus undis “ Implicat, et raptas qui confcius Orithyiae X2NEIA A0HNAC nPOMAXOT EN AEBAAEIA EN PwMH A B ETCEBEIA EN EAET0EPEIA EIOTIOAOIC EN riAATEIAIC CEBACTA EN THN EIC APrOC NEAITOAEI ACniAA Oppofite 7 * VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Meg a r a. Oppofite to this, on the other fide of the road, is a large heap of ruins, and at a fmall diftance two ftatues of women about eight feet high, without heads, and having no attributes to (hew for whom they were defigned. Among the ruins are the two following in- fcriptions, both upon (tones, that feem to have ferved as frizes to the building : H BOTAH KAI O AHMOS H BOTAH KAI O AHMOS O AHMOS KAAAINEIKON NOMIAAA AHMHTPION riPAElGNOS AN KAAAINEIKOT TPAMMATETSANTA KAI TTMNASIAP NASIAPXOTNTA TOAHAEKA XHSANTA EK TUN IAIllN H KAI EKATOSTGN ETOS EK THN IAIX2N O AHMOS AYTOKPATOPA KAI EAPA ©EOT YION APETHE ENEKEN KAI EYEPTETHS Crofling the road once more, you difeover the remains of fome magnificent edifice, as is to be judged from feveral beautiful columns of white marble, that are lying upon the ground, and feem by their proportions to have been of the Corinthian order. It probably may have been one of the temples of Ceres already mentioned, ,in which opinion I was more confirmed by an infeription I found near it in honour of the emprefs Sabina, which mentions her being newly admitted to the myfteries of Ceres: EABEINAN BAEIAIEEAN EEBAETHN NEAN AHMHTPA ATTOKPATOPOE AAPIANOY TYNAIKA IIAM^YAOI TIIO THN EniMEAElAN IOYAIOY KANAITOY TOY KPATIE TOT ANGTriATOY EPATHEOYNTOE AIEXI.ONOE TOY AAMOKPATOTE 6 At VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. 7 y At a finall didance hence are feveral other infcriptions, the firft Meoara. of the two following is in honour of the emperors M. Aurelius and 1-1—1 L. Verus : AYTOK.PATOPA KAICAPA MAPKOM AYPHAION AYTOKPATOPA KAICAPA AOYKlON AYPHAIO.V OY ANTS2NEINON CEBACTON ©EOY ANTUNEINOY CEBACTON 0EOY ANTHNEINOY YION YION ©EOY AAPIANOY YlfiNON ©EOY TPAIANOY YlftNON ©EOY TPAIANOY ITAP0IK. IIAP0I KOY EKTONON ©EOY NEPOYAC AnOTONON / H BOTAH KAI O AHMOC YriO EII1MEAEIAN CTPATHrOT Hi ONACIKAEO - - ATTOKPATOPA KAICAPA M ATPHAION ANT &;N CEBACTON ATTOKPATOPOC KAICAPOC A CEn CEOTHPOT ETCEBOTC I1EPTINAKOC CEBACTOT BIKOT AAIABHNIKOT I1AP0IKOY MEriCTOT KAI IOT CEBACTHC MHTPOC CTPATOETEA^N TION H nOA H MErAPEwN TON ETEPrETHN Within the village are to be feen no other remains of antiquity r than pieces of columns, and infcriptions duck in the walls of the churches and houfes. The Port Nifeum anfwers in every refpeft the defcription of it in Thucydides; before it lies the little ifland Minoe, oppofite to the citadel, which was taken by Hippocrates, on which fpot of ground there is now a convent of Greek friars in a ruinous condition. The chief antiquities of Megara, confiding in infcriptions, took me up a good deal of time in copying them, I made very drift fearch after the elegiac verfes mentioned by Paufanias 8o VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Megara. Pau Tanias to have been written upon the tomb of the hero Chorsebus; as alfo for that of Diocles, in honour of whom was inftituted a feftival, with a reward for the youth who could give the fweeteft kifs. But finding my labours fruitlefs, I was obliged to content my- felf with the ftory of the former, as it is told in the firft book of Statius ; and the particularity of the feftival as it is recorded in the twelfth idyllium of Theocritus. “ N iqaioi Msyxp yjeq upts"£V0VT£q lp€T[toiq t “ 'OXjSiot oiKoivjTe, tov A't]ikcv uq 7rept o&XXuv 44 Setvuv Ti^r/qaBe AioaXecc tov (piXonuifia.' 44 A'tei oi 7repi Tvpiftov aoXXeeq eiocpi 7rp utu tc K«po< IpiSpioLvisqt (piXrjfjLOiToq ctx, pa, (pip ecfta/* 44 *oV K xe Trpoqptd^Yi 'yXvxepaJepa, •xiiXzqt %ziXii “ BpiSojuevoq q-etpctvoiqiv e>jV 7?poq pylig txTryXSev*’ Having pafled another indifferent night at Megara, we again Elevsis. embarked on board our long boat for Eleusis, diftant from Megara about fourteen miles, and nine from Athens. It was firft called Eleufis from a hero of that name, fon of Ogyges king of Athens. This city, famous for its antiquity and the celebrated temple of Ceres, * “ Ye Megarenfians, for the oar renown’d, 44 With joys fucceffive may your days be crown’d. 44 Good Diocles of all ye honor’d mod, 44 Th’ Athenian, Diocles, untimely loft. 44 Throng’d round his tomb, when fpring the /lumbering year 44 Firft wakens, boys in amorous ftrife appear : 44 Who, arm’d with all the fofter powers of blifs, 44 On the moift lips fhould print the fweeteft kifs. “ A wreath of flowers the blooming conqueror wears, 44 And the gay trophy to his mother bears.” Anon. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Ceres, was originally governed by fovereigns of its own ; till El E re&heus, king of Athens, invading its territories was met by Immaratus, fon of Eumolpus, at the head of the Eleufinian forces ; between whom followed a bloody battle, in which both the generals were flain. The Athenians, however, having the better of the engagement, propofed a peace little advantageous to. the people of Eleufis; which they were obliged, notwithftanding, to accept. In confequence of this treaty it was agreed that Eleufis fhould in every thing acknowledge the fovereignty of Athens, with this only referve, that the myfteries of Ceres, and -the office of high pricft fhould be continued for ever in the family of Eumolpus. This privilege was maintained for many ages by the Eumolpidse, a confirmation of which I found in an infcription upon a pedeftal in the ruins of the temple, in which the word E vpo'kTrjfyv is plainly to be diftinguifhed, notwithftanding the reft has fuffered very much by the injuries of time. KATA TA AOHANTA THE orriAr - - botah EEK — - - NAONAT ETAO - - YEOHTT TON - AEYMOAI7IAHN There were in this city, befides the famous temple dedicated to Ceres and Proferpine, one confecrated to Triptolemus, another to Diana Propylea, and a third to Neptune the father, from whom was faid to be defcended the facred family of the Eumolpidse. There was alfo a beautiful fpring or fountain, named Callichoros, round which the Eleufinian women danced at the feftival in honour of the nymphs. But the moft famous ceremonies were the myfteries of M Ceres, 82 VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Eleusis. Ceres, celebrated every five years by the Athenians at this city, with the utmoft magnificence and folemnity ; and throughout all Greece they were held in fuch veneration, that the emperor Hadrian tranfported them to Rome, where they fubfifled till the reign of Theodofius the Elder. As thefe ceremonies are to be found defcribed at large in Dr. Potter* and other writers of the Greek antiquities, I fhall content myfelf with obferving thofe par- ticulars only, which I found confirmed by infcriptions and medals. Poppies were much ufed in this feftival, as they were fuppofed to be highly efteemed by the goddefs : whence Virgil has IAOHENA - TI KAATAIOT FIATPaNOE MEAITEaS 0TEATEPA APrTPaEAEAN TON BXXMON THE NEaTEPAE ©EOT EHIMEAH0ENTOE THE ANAQESEaE TOT TIOT ATTHE KA ATEIAAOT TOTTI KA IIATPaNOE TIOT Em IEPEIAS KA TIMO0EAE. The remains of the temple of Ceres, that are fill to be feen at Eleufis, fhew it to have been a fabric of more than ordinary magni- ficence. It was compofed of three ftories, each of a different order, M 2 as VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. 84 Eleusis. as may be proved from the great quantities of Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian pillars; which, together with their capitals, and all their other ornaments, lie heaped one upon another in confufion. The building was of a very large extent, as is to be feen from the great fpace of ground, which is now covered with the ruins. It was built all of white marble; the pavement, which is ftill entire, being of the fame. In one part of the temple is the ftatue of the goddefs, buried in the ground almoft up to her breads; on her head fhe bears a bafket filled with the various fruits of the earth, the outfide of which is adorned with ears of corn and poppies. Her drefs confifts in a long garment, which covers her all over from below the neck to the feet, and is fattened on the top with a button on the left ttioulder. The Turks, who have a fuperftition in not differing any imitation of the work of God, have induftrioufly Ipoiled the face of it; the reft is very entire, and cannot be too much admired for the delicacy of the workmanfhip, it being probably done by the hand of fome celebrated matter, at the time that arts and fciences were at their higheft perfedion in Greece. From what is now remaining above ground, which is about feven feet high, I judge the whole ftatue to have been near twenty feet in height. The village, which is ftill called Leufina, or Eleufina, is fituated upon a rifing ground, and confifts of about fifty poor cottages inhabited by as many families of miferable Greeks ; with one Turk, who lives in a large houfe as (governor, himfelf being under the diredion of the Vaivode of Athens. From the ruins, that are fcattered all about the neighbouring fields, one may conclude Eleufis to have been a city of a pretty confiderable extent, reaching down as far as the fea on one fide, and on the other a good way beyond the hill, on which ftands the prefent village. The plain around is very VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. very fruitful, and worthy the prote&ion of the Ceres, being covered with plenty of corn, olive trees, and vineyards. All the way from the neareft mountain, for the fpace of four miles to the ruins of the temple, are the remains of an ancient aquedudt, with many of the arches ftill entire. The water conveyed by it was, in all probability, employed by the priefts in religious ufes. At fome diftance from the temple is a large well of excellent water, which can be no other than the fountain Callichorus. Towards the fea are the foundations of feveral very large buildings, which feem rather to have been places of ftrength than fhew; though in other parts are to be feen many fragments of precious marbles, which prove that Eleufis had other fragments to boaft of befide the temple of Ceres. We flept the following night upon a fofa in the houfe of the Turk, who received us with great hofpitality ; the next morning, by break of day we proceeded towards our boat, which lay at anchor in the ancient harbour, compofed by two moles, but of a very fmall extent ; ferving only for the reception of boats, being neither capa- cious nor deep enough to admit any veflel of a moderate fize. By the affiftance of a favourable gale we foon reached the Piraeum, where as foon as ever we were on board our fhip, and had taken leave of the Englifh conful, we put again to fea, bidding adieu to the Athenian territories. In the evening we came to an anchor near the promontory of Sunium, now called Cape Colonna, from feventeen columns (the remains of the temple of Minerva Sunia) that are now handing on the fummit of it. We were fbeltered on the other fide by the defart ifland Gaydouronifi, or the Ifle of Aflfes. It was called anciently Patroclea, from Patroclus, admiral of Ptolemy Philadelphus, king of iEgypt ; who coming with his fleet to the affiftance of the Athenians, 6 when 85 Ele usis. < — J Cape Colon n a. 86 VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Cape Colon n a • when they were attacked by the Macedonian Antigonus, fortified it with ramparts and a ftrong wall. Near the promontory of Sunium was anciently a town of the fame name, which was included under the tribe of Leontis; by the ruins it appears to have been a place of no great extent nor magnificence. The remains of the temple confift in feventeen beautiful columns of white marble, of the Doric order, with their frizes and architraves. The proportions and form of the building being much the fame as the temple of Thefeus at Athens, make any farther defcription of the figure unneceffary. The cornifhes are neatly fet off with ornaments in a very good tafte, which indeed is diftinguifhable throughout the whole of the edifice. Upon this promontory king iEgeus, impatient for the return of his fon Thefeus from Crete, and folicitous for his fafety, waited his arrival ; but not finding the wifhed-for fignal hung out, upon the approach of his fhip, (which was negledted as they were ftili at a pretty confiderable diftance from Athens, never fufpedting the old king’s making a journey as far as Sunium to meet them,) in defpair threw himlelf off of the rocks, in memory of whom the neighbour- ing fea was ever after called the iEgean fea. S’ lv Kpam?? lplyy\v (piXoT'/fji yS, \wvi> 'rig geo vvv epupat, yS, pte yXVKVg Ipcjpof utpei*-” HOM. Iliad P„ The a • “ But let the bufinefs of our life be love : “ Thefe fofter moments let delights employ, “ And kind embraces fnatch the hafty joy. “ Not VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. The if! and Zea had the ancient name of Ceos, from Ceos fon to one of the giants. It was famous for being the birth-place of the poet Simonides, and of Erafiftratus a no lefs noted phyfician. In thofe times it was very well inhabited, and had four pretty con- iiderable cities ; but the people were little better than Barbarians, as may be judged from a molt unnatural cuftom prevalent among them of killing all their old men after they had pafled the age of fixty; efteeming them after that no other than a weight upon the public. If fuch a piece of cruelty could be ever thought excufable, it was when they committed it for the defence of their liberty ; for being befieged by the Athenians, and hard preffed for want of provilions, they formed a refolution of making away with all hands unfit for bearing arms ; which coming to the ears of their enemies, was the caufe of their fafety; for the Athenians, fhocked at the thoughts of their driving a people to commit fo horrid a barbarity, to prevent the putting their defign in execution, immediately raifed the fiege. They ulually difpatched their old men by giving them large doles of opium, which, as they had little ftrength to refill; the working of the poifon, carried them off without the leafl torment or pain, in the gentleft manner imaginable. The ifland is exceffively barren, fo that the prefent inhabitants are obliged to feek almoft all the neceffaries of life from abroad. It has, however, a good and fpacious harbour, efteemed by the feamen one of the fafeft in thefe parts. Thermia “ Not thus I lov’d thee, when from Sparta’s Ihore 4 ‘ My forc’d, my willing heavenly prize I bore, “ When firft entranc’d in Cranae’s ifle I lay, “ Mix’d with thy foul, and all diffolv’d away.” Pope. I ✓ VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. 89 Thermia is divided from Zea by a ftreight about a league Thermia. broad. It was called originally Cythnos, from a perfon of that name, who led thither the colony, that firlt inhabited it. The name was afterwards changed to Thermia, from the number of hot baths, that were found in many parts of the ifland. This place gave birth to the celebrated painter Cydias, hence called the Cythnian, whofe works were fo much efteemed by the ancients, that a 1 piece of his, reprefenting the Argonautic expedition, was bought by Hortenfius the Roman orator at the extravagant price of one hundred and fixty-four talents. This ifland is at prefent but thinly inhabited, having only three or four fmall villages ; but it is fruitful in comparifon of Zea, producing corn, wine, oil, and cheefe, fufficient for the maintenance of thofe, who live in it ; as alfo a fmall quantity of filk, from the exportation of which they make a fhift to pay their tribute to the Grand Signor. Continuing our voyage we left, on our right hand the ifland o£ Syr A, and on the left that of Jo UR A, or Jura, after which we came in fight of Tine, one of the belt peopled iflands in all the Archipelago. Syra was known by the ancients under the name of Syros, and Syr\. was the birth-place of the philofopher Pherecydes, by fome fuppofed to have been Pythagoras’s mailer. The air is very wholefome, and the foil not entirely barren, fince the inhabitants, who live all in one village, on the fummit of the ifland, can eafily fuftain themfelves upon the products of the land, which confill chiefly in corn and wine. It affords alfo fome pallurage for their cattle, with which they are not ill provided. The ifland of Jour A was anciently called Gyaros, famous for j 0URA . nothing but its barrennefs and mifery, upon which account the n Romans 9 ° VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Joura. Romans made ufe of it as a prifon, and filled it with criminals, whence Juvenal, fC Aude aliquid brevibus Gyaris, et careers dignum.” Sat. i. 1. 73. and again, “ Ut Gyarae claufus fcopulis, parvaque Seripho.” Sat. x. 1. 170. Tine. Tine, named in ancient times Tinos, was famous for a temple of Neptune, the tutelar deity of the ifland, for which reafon we fee at prefent medals with the head of Neptune on one fide, on the other a trident with the infeription TH; and another "with the whole figure of Neptune on one fide, and on the other a bunch of grapes. Nor ought we to forget that of the emperor Sept. Severus, on the reverfe of which is a trident with a ferpent twifted in the prongs, and the infeription THNII1N. This ifland is at prefent in a more flourifhing condition than any of this part of the Archipelago, pro- ducing in great abundance corn, wine, oil, figs, and filk. The principal village, which is fituated clofe to the fea-fhore, is that of St. Nicholas ; befides which there are above fifty others in different parts of the ifland, all well inhabited. Having pafled Tine, we foon came to an anchor in the road of Mtcone. Mycone, which defended us from the rage of a violent northerly wind, and it detained us here for tfie fpace of ten days. This ifland has preferved its ancient name, uncorrupted to this day; and is at prefent in greater profperity than when Greece flourifhed; the inhabitants of it being in thofe times famous only for their poverty, and addrefs in infinuating themfelves to great men’s tables, which rendered the name of Myconian almoft fynonymous with Parafite. 6 Archilochus, VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. 91 Archilochus, abufing Pericles, calls him, in allufion to this, ’'AkXvitov tTttKnvuiovToc eig ')«. gv{A7Tcgic(, Muy.oviuv Sixyiv. It has at prefent no more than one village, fituated near the fea-Ihore, the inhabitants of which are generally in pretty good circumftances, which is owing entirely to their own induftry ; they being reputed the bed: failors of all the Archipelago, and owning feveral velfels of burden, with which they carry on a very advantageous trade. The face of the ifland is rude and uncultivated, but within it is by no means of an ungrateful foil, producing corn, wine, and cotton, of which the women make ftockings, and by the fale of them to moft fhips, that pafs, they make a conliderable gain. In the village you meet with above five women for one man, they being moft of them employed in their fhips, which feldom lie idle, efpecialiy in fummer ; at which time there is to be feen in Mycone fcarce any thing but old men, women, children, and fat hogs. Thefe females have the character of being the moft beautiful of all the Archipelago, there being none, that pretend to difpute it with them, except the Teniotes; which dif- ference it is impoflible for me to decide, as I faw only thofe of Mycone ; who, to give them their due, are by no means difagree- able. Their drefs, however, which is little different from that of Milo, is very unpleafing, as is the cuftora of painting both white and red, which is very prevalent among them. There are few remains of antiquity in this ifland : a little without the village, near a well, is ftanding a very beautiful altar, adorned with bulls heads and feftoons of flowers ; which has fuffered hardly any thing from the injuries of time. Over the doors of many of the houfes are to be feen little bafs-relievos of different fubje&s. We met with a foot of a brazen ftatue, which was found a few years ago at the bottom of a well ; but the whole figure could never be difcovered, though the N 2 ftriTeft Mycone. **** ■ ■■ 1 92 My cone. I ' — Delos. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. ftri&eft fearch imaginable was made after it. The foot, as it fhews one in a very clear manner the form of the Greek fandal, I thought very well worth bringing away, to which end I purchafed it for a Imall confideration. Nor mull I forget a beautiful infeription in a Greek church; for an exad copy of which fee Plate V. After having remained two or three days at Mycone, embracing the firft opportunity of moderate weather, we refolved to make another expedition in our long boat, to which we were chiefly invited by the fmall diftance of the famous ill and of Delos, which from the neareft point of Mycone is divided by a channel only two miles broad, though from the atichoring-place to that fide of the ifland, on which are to be feen the ruins of the temple of Apollo, it is above three leagues. It was owing to its being fo near the ifland of Mycone, that the ancients, who had a tradition that it was formerly a floating ifle, imagined that Apollo had faftened it on one fide to Mycone, and on the other to Gyaros, which latter indeed is at a much greater diftance. This particularly is mentioned by Virgil in the following manner : Statius “ Sacra mari colitur medio gratiflima tellus “ Nere'idum matri et Neptuno JEgeo; iC Quam pius Arcitenens oras et littora circum “ Errantem, Mycone celsa, Gyaroque revinxit, « Immotamque coli dedit, et contemnere ventosV’ JEn. iii. 1 . 73. * “ Rifing amidft the feas a pleafant ifle 44 Is till’d by men) faered to her that bare 44 The Nereids, and th’ iEgean Neptune’s name; 4 ‘ Which, once vague floating round the coafts and Ihores, “ The pious god that wields the bow, faft bound 44 With Gyaros and Mycone; then gave 44 To reft unfhaken, and contemn the winds.” Beresford. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN, 33 Statius alfo mentions Apollo’s being delighted at the ifland’s being Delos. fixed, and at not having the trouble any longer of fearching for it in different parts of the fea. “ Seujuvat /Egeum feriens Latonius umbra tc Cynthus, et affiduam pelago non quasrere Delon*.” Theb. 1 . i. 1 . 834. Concerning the etymology of the word Delos there are many dif- ferent opinions, the moll reafonable of which to me appears that of Ariftotle, qui hanc ita appellatam prodidit, quoniam repente ap- paruerit enata (Pliny), fince the ifle is faid to have appeared out of the fea on a fudden, being formed by a violent earthquake ; and we have too many undifputed examples of parallel phenomena of nature to call the probability of this account in queftion. It was alfo called Ortygia, from the prodigious number of quails, that were anciently to be found all over the ifland, “ Linquimus Ortygiae portus,. pelagoque volamus f Virg. iEn. iii. 1 . 124. Notwithflanding this ifland is very inconfiderable in fize, being no more than ten miles in circumference, the notion that Apollo and Diana were born here, at the foot of the mountain Cynthus, ren- dered it highly efteemed and reverenced by the ancients. Upon this account Erifidthon, fon of Cecrops, firft king of Athens, eredted a temple in honour of Apollo ; which receiving in fucceeding ages continual * “ Or, pleas’d to find fair Delos’ float no more, “ Delight in Cynthus, and the fhady fhore.” t “ The harbours of Ortygia leave we now.” Pope. Beresford, VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. continual embellifhments, was at laft efteemed one of the moft magnificent edifices of all Greece. It flood at the entrance of a large and beautiful city, built chiefly of granite, and other more precious marble, which received additional decorations from, many different princes, particularly from Philip of Macedon, and An- tiochus Epiphanes king of Syria. The moll remarkable ornaments of this city were, the temple of Apollo, a theatre, a naumachium, gymnafium, feveral very grand porticos, a temple in honour of Apollo and Diana, befides a great number of altars and ftatues dedicated to different gods and heroes. The oracle here was efteemed inferior to none, except that of Delphi; though Apollo was fup- pofed to have refided here only during the fummer feafon, taking up his winter quarters at Patara, a city of Lycia. “ Qualis ubi hybernam Lyciam, Xanthique fluenta “ Deferit, ac Delum maternam invifit Apollo*.” Virg. JEn. iv. 1 . 143. It was cuftomary for the ancients, whenever they paffed this iiland, either to flop at the temple of Apollo, to offer up prayers and iacrifices for a fecure and profperous voyage ; or elfe to make liba- tions to the fame purpofe from their fhips. Hence we find iEneas in the temple offering up thefe fupplications : “ Templa Dei faxo venerabar ftrudta vetufto : “ Da propriam, Thymbrsee, domum, da moenia feflis. “ Da. Pater, Augurium, atque animis illabere noftrisf Virg. JEn. iii. I. 84. Ulyffes * “ A* when Apollo wintry Lycia flies, “ And Xanthus’ ftream, and his maternal ifle “ Delos revifits.” Beresford. f “ There to the temple of the god I went, “ And thus before the fnrine my vows .pre-fen* : . “ Give, VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. Ulyfles alfo, in his voyage from Scyros, makes his libations, and offers up his prayers from his fhip. {C Jam Delos opacat u .ZEquor, ubi excelfa libant Carchefia puppe, “ Refponfique lidem, ec verum Calchanta precantur. Cf Audiit Arcitenens, zephyrumque e vertice Cynthi “ Impulit, et dubiis pleno dedit omina velo.” Stat. Achill. 1. ii. The Athenians had a cuflom of fending a fhip hither every year, with a confiderable number of citizens, who ufed to make a folemn facrifice in the temple of Apollo. This annual ceremony was firft inftituted by Thefeus, who in his expedition to Crete, flop- ping here to implore the affiftance of Apollo, made a vow, that if he returned in fafety he would inflitute a yearly folemnity in honour of the deity. In confequence of this, the Athenians made an annual voyage in the very fame fhip, that Thefeus made ufe of in his Cretan expedition; keeping it in conflant repair by add- ing new tackling continually as the old wore out, as the poet Callimachus tells us : “ Ei/dev cZsi^uovtu Qsup$og i'epx c< KLsjcp orcioai ragt T 07 rvji'x vyog hceivyg Hymn to Delos, 1 . 313. The “ Give, O Thymbrseus, give a refting-place “To the fad relicks of the Trojan race; “ A feat fecure, a region of their own, “ A lafting empire, and a happier town — — “ Let not my prayers a doubtful anfwer find, “ But in clear auguries unveil thy mind.” 4 “ And hence the fons of Cecrops annual fend “ The fam’d Theorian veffel, that defies “ The power of time, for ages Bill the fame,” Dryden. Dodd. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. The fhip was called Gswpt?, and A qXicts, the officers employed In the ceremony 0e&>pc\, and A vfkiug-oii, and the chief A’pviS-awpoV* From the time of their departure till their return to Athens, it was contrary to the laws for any criminal to fuffer death; and it was upon that account, that Socrates was reprieved for thirty days after his con- demnation. When the ©ewpoh were arrived at Delos, they formed themfelves into a folemn proceffion, and crowned with chaplets of laurel, and dreffed in habits of ceremony, affifted by the priefts of the temple, offered a bull to Apollo, after which they re-embarked and returned home. The bull is mentioned by Virgil as a facrifice the moll agreeable to Apollo, for which reafon ffineas offers up one in this very temple. “ Sic fatus meritos aris ma&avit honores “ Taurum Neptuno, taurum tibi, pulcher Apollo*." iEn. iii. 1. 1 1 8 . Befides this folemnity the Athenians celebrated another feftival at Delos once every five years, called the feftival of the purification; and the Ionian-s, together with the inhabitants of all the neigh- bouring iflands, another with games and all forts of public di- verfions. The temple of Apollo was held in veneration not only by the Greeks, but revered even by the barbarians, infomuch that Datis the Perftan admiral, after having facked many Grecian cities, and ruined * u He faid, and on the altars duly flays “ A bull to Neptune, and a bull to thee, “ Bright god of day !” Beresford. VOYAGE ROUND THE MEDITERRANEAN. 97 ruined all the adjacent iflands, putting the inhabitants to the fword, Delos. and pillaging the temples of the gods, was fo thoroughly perfuaded ^ ir ~'~ of the fan