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• V 
 
 
 

Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2018 with funding from 
 Getty Research Institute 
 
 https://archive.org/details/lifeinmexicoduri01cald_0 
 
LIFE IN MEXICO 
 
 DURING A 
 
 RESIDENCE OF TWO YEARS 
 
 IN 
 
 
 THAT COUNTRY. 
 
 By Mme. C- 
 
 De La B- 
 
 Thou art beautiful, 
 
 Queen of the valley ! thou art beautiful I 
 Thy walls, like silver, sparkle to the sun, 
 
 Melodious wave thy groves. 
 
 Southey's Madoc. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 CHARLES C. LITTLE AND JAMES BROWN. 
 
 1843 . 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1842, by 
 Alexander D. Inglis, 
 
 In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 
 
 boston: 
 
 PRINTED BY FREEMAN AND EOLLES, 
 
 WASHINGTON STREET. 
 
The present work is the result of observations 
 made during a two years’ residence in Mexico, by 
 a lady, whose position there, made her intimately 
 acquainted with its society, and opened to her the 
 best sources of information in regard to whatever 
 could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists 
 of letters written to the members of her own family, 
 and really , not intended originally, — however in¬ 
 credible the assertion, — for publication. Feeling 
 a regret that such rich stores of instruction and 
 amusement, from which I have so much profited, 
 myself, should be reserved for the eyes of a feAV 
 friends only, I strongly recommended that they 
 should be given to the world. This is now done, 
 
IV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 with a few such alterations and omissions as were 
 necessary in a private correspondence; and al¬ 
 though the work would derive more credit from 
 the author’s own name, than from anything which 
 I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel 
 much pleasure in making this statement by way of 
 introduction to the public. 
 
 WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT. 
 
 Boston, December 20, 1S42. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER THE FIRST. 
 
 Departure of the “ Norma ’’ — Last look of New York Bay 
 — Fellow passengers — Contrary winds — Deceitful ap¬ 
 pearances— Sun-set in southern latitudes — Seas pas¬ 
 sed over by Columbus — Varied occupations on ship¬ 
 board— Berry Islands — Bahama Banks — Evening in a 
 Tropical Sea—L. E. L. — Pan of Matanzas — Morro 
 Castle — Bay of Havana — Arrival — Handsome house 
 in Havana — Sights and sounds, ..... 1 
 
 LETTER THE SECOND. 
 
 Havana aristocracy — Lucia de Lammermoor — La Rossi 
 
 and Montresor — Brig of war—Countess de V-a — 
 
 Dinner at H-a’s — Southerly winds — View from the 
 
 balcony— Quinta of Count V- a—San Cristobal — 
 
 Mass at San Felipe — Erard Harp — Dinner at General 
 M o’s — A desert at Havana — Queen of Spain’s birth¬ 
 day— Dinner at the Yntendencia — La Pantanelli — 
 Theatre of Tacon — Railroad — Cure by lightning — 
 
 Shops — Ball at the Countess F-a’s — Last visit — 
 
 Souvenirs, . ..16 
 
 LETTER THE THIRD. 
 
 Departure in the Jason — Spanish Captain and Officers — 
 
 Life on board a Man of War — “ Balances ” — Fishing — 
 
 “ Le petit tambour ” — Cocoa-nuts— A Norte — Spanish 
 proverb — Peak of Orizava — Theory and practice — 
 Norte Chocolatero — Contrary winds—Chain of Moun¬ 
 tains— Goleta, ........ 2*6 
 
VI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER THE FOURTH. 
 
 Distant View of Vera Cruz — Pilots — Boat from the city — 
 Mutual salutes — Approach to Vera Cruz—Crowd on 
 
 the wharf—House of Don Dionisio V-o — Guard of 
 
 Honor — German Piano — Supper — Madonna — Aspect 
 of the City— Sopilotcs — Deliberations — General Gua¬ 
 dalupe Victoria — Two-headed Eagle — Dilapidated 
 Saint — Plarp — Theatre — Dona Innocencia Martinez — 
 Invitation from General Santa Anna, ... 36 
 
 LETTER THE FIFTH. 
 
 Departure from Vera Cruz — Sand-hills — Oriental scene — 
 Manga de Clavo — General Santa Anna — Breakfast — 
 Escort and diligence — Santa Fe— Puente Nacional— 
 Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward — Country in December — 
 
 Don Miguel — First impressions — Fruit — Plan del Rio 
 German musicians — Sleeping Captain — Approach to 
 Jalapa — Appearance of the City — Cofrc de Pcrote — 
 Flowers — House and rock — Last view of Jalapa — 
 Change of scenery—San Miguel de los Soldados — Pe- 
 rote — Striking scene before day-break — Non-arrival of 
 escort — Yankee coachman — Dispute — Departure — 
 Company of lancers — Alcalde — Breakfast at La Ven- 
 tilla — Pulque — Double escort — Crosses — Brigand-look¬ 
 
 ing tavern-keeper — Ojo de Agua — Arrival at Puebla — 
 Dress of the peasants — Christmas eve — Inn — “ Nacimi- 
 ento ,” ..47 
 
 LETTER THE SIXTH. 
 
 Departure from Puebla — Chirimoyas — Rio Frio — Indian 
 Game — Black Forest — Valley of Mexico — Recollec¬ 
 tions of Tenochtitlan—Mexican Officer — Reception — 
 Scenery — Variety of Dresses — Cheers — Storm of Rain 
 — Entry to Mexico — Buenavista — House by day-light — 
 Sights from the windows — Visits — Mexican Etiquette — 
 
 Countess C-a — Flowers in December — Serenade — 
 
 Patriotic Hymn,.71 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 VII 
 
 LETTER THE SEVENTH. 
 
 DebCit in Mexico — Cathedral — Temple of the Aztecs — 
 Congregation — Stone of sacrifices — Palace — Importu¬ 
 nate leperos — Visit to the President — Countess C-a 
 
 — Street cries — Tortilleras —Sartor Resartus, . . 90 
 
 LETTER THE EIGHTH. 
 
 Ball in preparation — Agreeable family — Fine voices — 
 Theatre — Smoking — Castle of Chapultepec — Viceroy 
 Galvez — Montezuma’s Cypress -— Vice-Queen — Valley 
 of Mexico — New Year’s day — Opening of Congress — 
 Visits from the diplomatic corps — Poblana Dress — 
 
 “ Funcion extraordinaria ” — Theatre — Visit to the Ca¬ 
 thedral of Guadalupe — Divine painting — Bishop — Beg¬ 
 gars— Mosquitoes’ eggs, ..101 
 
 LETTER THE NINTH. 
 
 Visits from Spaniards — Visit from the President — Disqui¬ 
 sition— Poblana Dress — Bernardo the Matador — Bull¬ 
 fight extraordinary — Plaza de Toros-—.Fireworks — 
 
 Portrait of C-n — Fancy ball — Dress — Costume of 
 
 the patronesses — Beauty in Mexico — Doctor’s visit — 
 Cards of faire part — Marquesa de San Roman— Toil¬ 
 ette in morning visits of ceremony — Attempt at rob¬ 
 bery— Murder of a consul — La Gtlera Rodriguez — Dr. 
 
 Plan—M. de Humbolt — Anecdote—-Former customs, 116 
 
 LETTER THE TENTH. 
 
 San Fernando — House of Perez de Galvez — A removal — 
 
 Size of the houses — Old Monastery — View by sunset — 
 Evening visits — Mexican etiquette — Night-view from 
 the Azotea — Tacubaya — Magueys — Making of pulque 
 
 — Organos and nopal —- Environs of Mexico — Miracle — 
 
 Hacienda — View from the Countess C--a’s house —- 
 
 Arzobispado — Anecdote — Comparative view of beauty 
 
 — Indians — Rancheritas — Mexican cordiality —-Masses 
 
 for the dead — San Agustin — Form of invitation — 
 Death of a senator — A Mistake, .... 137 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER THE ELEVENTH. 
 
 Calle tie Tacuba— The Leap of Alvarailo — The “Noche 
 Triste.’’ — Sale of a curate’s goods — Padre Leon — 
 Leprosy — Pictures — The annunciation — The Alameda 
 Paseo de Bucarelli — The Viga — Indians in canoes — A 
 murder — A country fete — Visit to the Colegia Viz¬ 
 caino— The Jota Arragonesa — Old soldiers, . . 156 
 
 LETTER THE TWELFTH. 
 
 The Viga during the Carnival — Variety of equipages — 
 
 The millionaries — The monks — Masked ball — An 
 alarming sight — Medical students — Dinner at the Prus¬ 
 sian minister’s — Rides on horseback — Indian love of 
 flowers — Santa Anita — The Chinampas — Their origin 
 Indians in canoes — Song of “ El Palomo ” — Fighting — 
 
 The great lakes — The Drain of Huehuetoca — The 
 great market of Tlatelolco, . . . . . 171 
 
 LETTER THE THIRTEENTH. 
 
 Convent of San Joaquin — Mexico in the morning — Tacu¬ 
 ba— Carmelite Prior — Convent Garden — Hacienda of 
 Los Morales — El Olivar — A Huacamaya — Humming 
 birds — Correspondence — Expected consecration — 
 Visit to the Mineria — Botanic Garden — Arbol de las 
 Manitas — The Museum — Equestrian statue — Acad¬ 
 emy of Painting and Sculpture — Disappointment, . 1S7 
 
 LETTER THE FOURTEENTH. 
 
 Palm Sunday — Holy Thursday — Variety of costumes — 
 
 San Francisco — Santo Domingo — Santa Teresa — 
 Nuns — Stone bust — The Academy — Religious pro¬ 
 cession— Pilgrimage to the churches — Santa Clara — 
 Nun’s voice — Orange-trees and rose-bushes — The Ca¬ 
 thedral illuminated — Our Savior in chains — Good Fri¬ 
 day — The great square towards Evening — Dresses of 
 men, women and children — Approach of the Host — Ju- 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 das — Great procession — Miserere — The square by 
 moonlight — A lonely walk — Sabado de gloria — Ball in 
 contemplation — Weekly soirees — Embroidered muslins 
 
 — A Tertulia at home,.197 
 
 LETTER THE FIFTEENTH. 
 
 Letter from the Archbishop — Visit to the “ Encarna- 
 cion ” — Reception — Description — The novices — Con¬ 
 vent-supper — Picturesque scene — Sonata on the organ 
 
 — Attempt at robbery — Alarms of the household — Visit 
 
 to San Agustin — Anonymous letter — The Virgin de los 
 Remedios — Visit to the chapel — The padre — The im¬ 
 age — Anecdote of the large pearl — A mine, . . 217 
 
 LETTER THE SIXTEENTH. 
 
 Mexico in May — Leave Mexico for Santiago — Coach of 
 Charles Tenth — Mexican travelling — General aspect 
 of the country — Village of Santa Clara — Robbers’ 
 house — Temples of the sun and moon — San Juan — 
 Mexican Posada — School-house — Skulls — Hard fare — 
 Travelling dress — Sopayuca — Military administrador 
 
 — Santiago — Matadors and picadors — Evenings in the 
 
 country — Dances — Mexican songs — Cempoala — Pla¬ 
 za de Toros — Skill of the horsemen — Omatusco — Ac¬ 
 cident — Tulansingo — Beautiful garden — Mexican 
 dishes — Fruits — Horses — Games of forfeits — Ran- 
 chera’s dress — Young girls and their admirers — Ver¬ 
 ses — Knowledge of simple medicine — Indian baths — 
 Hidden treasures — Anecdote, . . . . . 231 
 
 LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH. 
 
 Arrival at Tepenacasco — Lake with wild duck — Ruined 
 hacienda— Sunset on the plains — Troop of asses— Ride 
 by moonlight — Leave Tepenacasco — San Miguel — De¬ 
 scription— Thunder storm — Guasco — Journey to Real 
 del Monte — English road—Scenery — Village of Real 
 
 — Count de Regia — Director’s house — English break¬ 
 fast— Visit to the mines — mining speculations — Grand 
 
X 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 scenery — Visit to Regia — The cascade — The storm — 
 Loneliness — A journey in storm and darkness — Return 
 to Tepenacasco — Journey to Sopayuca — Narrow escape 
 
 — Famous bull — Return to Mexico, . . . 258 
 
 LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH. 
 
 English ball — Dresses — Diamonds — Mineria — Arrival 
 of the Pope’s bull — Consecration of the archbishop — 
 
 Foreign ministers — Splendor of the cathedral — De¬ 
 cryption of the ceremony, ..... 273 
 
 LETTER THE NINETEENTH. 
 
 Mexican servants — Anecdotes — Remedies — An unsafe 
 Porter — Galopinas — The reboso — The sarape —Wo- 
 men-coolcs — Foreign servants — Characteristics of Mex¬ 
 ican servants — Servants’ wages—Nun of the Santa 
 Teresa—Motives for taking the veil, . . . 2S2 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTIETH. 
 
 The convent entry — Dialogue — A chair in church — 
 Arrival of the nun — Dress — Jose Maria—Crowd — 
 Withdrawal of the black curtain — The taking of the 
 veil — The sermon — A dead body — Another victim — 
 Convent of the Encarnacion — Attempt at a hymn— In¬ 
 vitation — Morning visit — The nun and her mother — 
 Banquet — Taking leave — Ceremony of the veil-taking 
 
 — A beautiful victim — The last look — Presentation to 
 
 the bishop — Reflections — Verses, .... 294 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST. 
 
 San Agustin — The gambling fete — The beauties of the 
 village — The road from Mexico — Entry to San Agus¬ 
 tin — The gambling houses — San Antonio — The Pedre- 
 gal — Last day of the fete — The cock-pit — The boxes 
 
 — The cock-fight — Decorum — Comparisons — Dinner — 
 
 Ball at Calvario — House of General Moran — View of 
 the gambling tables — The Advocate — Ball at the Plaza 
 de Gallos — Return to Mexico — Reflections — Conver¬ 
 sation between two ministers,.310 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND. 
 
 Countess C-a — Gutierrez Estrada — Dinner at General 
 
 Moran’s — Dowager Marquesa — Fete at San Antonio — 
 Approach of the rainy season — Diamonds and plate — 
 Great ball — Night travelling — Severe storm—Chapter 
 of accidents — Corpus Christi — Pobiana dress — Book 
 club — Ball — Humming bird — Franciscan friar — 
 Missions to Old and New California — Zeal and endur¬ 
 ance of the missionaries — Present condition—Convent 
 gardener,.321 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD. 
 
 The President — Yturbide—Visit from the Archbishop — 
 Senor Canedo — General Almonte — Sehor Cuevas — 
 Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico — Of Senor Po¬ 
 sada — His life —Mexican charity — Wax figures — An¬ 
 ecdote — Valuable present — Education — Comparison 
 
 — Schools — Opportunities — Natural talent — Annual 
 
 — Compliments to the Mexican ladies by the editor — 
 
 F amilies of the old school — Morals — Indulgence — 
 Manners — Love of country — Colleges, . . . 335 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH. 
 
 Revolution in Mexico — Gomez Farias and General Urrea 
 
 — The federalists — The President imprisoned — Firing 
 
 — Cannon — First news — Escape — Proclamation of the 
 
 government — Cannonading — Count C-a — Houses 
 
 deserted — Countess del V-e — Proclamation of the 
 
 federalists — Circular of the federalists — Scarcity of 
 provisions — Bursting of a shell — Refugees — Dr. Plan 
 
 — Young lady shot—Gomez Farias — Rumors —Ad¬ 
 
 dress of Gomez Farias — Balls and bullets — Visit from 
 the —— Minister — Arrival of Monsieur de- Ex¬ 
 
 pected attack — Skirmish — Appearance of the street 
 
 — San Cosme — General-The Count de B- 
 
 More rumors — Suspense — Cannonading — Government 
 bulletin — Plan of the rebels defeated — Proclamation of 
 
XU 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 the President — Of General Valencia — Maternal affec¬ 
 tion— Fresh reports — Families leaving the city—Letter 
 from Santa Anna — Bustamante’s letter when imprisoned 
 
 — Propositions — Refusal — Tacubaya — Archbishop — 
 Fresh proposals — Refusal — Second letter from Santa 
 Anna — Government bulletin — Proclamations — An 
 awkward mistake — The Archbishop visits the President 
 
 — Conclusion of the Revolution — Government news¬ 
 paper — Circulars, ....... 348 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH. 
 
 Plan of the federalists — Letter from Farias—Signing of 
 articles — Dispersion of the “ pronunciados ” — Condi¬ 
 tions — Orders of General Valencia — Of the Governor — 
 Address of General Valencia — Departure of our guests — 
 
 The Cosmopolita — State of the palace and streets — Bul¬ 
 letin of the firing—Interior of houses — Escape of fam¬ 
 ilies— Conduct of the troops — Countess del V e — 
 Santa Anna — Congress — Anecdote — Discussion in 
 Congress — Leprosy,.381 
 
 LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH. 
 
 Visiters — Virgin de los Remedios — Encarnacion — Fears 
 of the nuns — Santa Teresa — Rainy season — Amusing 
 scene — “ Esld a la disposition dc V.” — Mexican sincer¬ 
 ity — Texian vessels — Fine hair — School mistress — 
 Climate — Its effects — Nerves — Tours de force — Anni¬ 
 versary — Speech — Paseo — San Angel — Tacubaya — 
 Army of “ the three guarantees ” — Plan of Yguala — A 
 murder — Indian politeness — Drunkenness — Serior Ca- 
 nedo — Revolutions in Mexico — The Penon — The baths 
 
 — General-Situation and view — Indian family — 
 
 Of the boiling springs—Capabilities — Solitude — Cha- 
 pultepec — The Dcsagravios — Penitence at San Fran¬ 
 cisco — Discipline of the men — Discourse of the monk — 
 Darkness and horrors — Salmagundi, . . . 392 
 
LETTERS EROM MEXICO. 
 
 LETTER THE FIRST. 
 
 Departure of the “Norma” — Last look of New York Bay — Fel¬ 
 low-passengers— Contrary Winds — Deceitful Appearances — 
 Sun-set in Southern Latitudes— Seas passed over by Columbus 
 — Varied Occupations on Ship-board — Berry Islands — Baha¬ 
 ma Banks — Evening in a Tropical Sea — L. E. L. — Pan of 
 Matanzas — Morro Castle — Bay of Havana —Arrival — Hand¬ 
 some House in Havana — Sights and Sounds. 
 
 Packet Ship Norma, Oct. 27th, 1839. 
 
 This morning, at 10 o’clock, we stepped on board 
 the steamboat Hercules, destined to convey us to 
 our packet with its musical name. The day was 
 foggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be comforted, even 
 by an occasional smile from the sun. All prognosti¬ 
 cated that the Norma would not sail to-day, but 
 “ where there’s a will,” &c. Several of our friends 
 accompanied us to the wharf; the Russian Minister, 
 
 the Minister of Buenos Ayres, Mr.-, who tried 
 
 hard to look sentimental, and even brought tears 
 
 into his eyes by some curious process; Judge-, 
 
 l- 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
2 
 
 FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 
 
 Mr. -, and others, from whom we were truly sorry 
 
 to part. 
 
 The Norma was anchored in one of the most 
 beautiful points of the bay, and the steamboat towed 
 us five miles, until we had passed the Narrows. The 
 wind was contrary, but the day began to clear up, 
 and the sun to scatter the watery clouds. 
 
 Still there is nothing so sad as a retreating view. 
 It is as if time were visibly in motion; and as here 
 
 we had to part from -, we could only distinguish 
 
 as through a misty veil, the beauties of the bay ; the 
 shores covered to the water’s edge with trees rich in 
 their autumnal coloring ; the white houses on Staten 
 Island — the whole gradually growing fainter, till like 
 a dream, they faded away. 
 
 The pilot has left us, breaking our last link with 
 the land. We still see the mountains of Neversink, 
 and the lighthouse of Sandy Hook. The sun is 
 setting, and in a few minutes, we must take our leave, 
 probably for years, of places long familiar to us. 
 
 Our fellow-passengers do not appear very remark¬ 
 able. There is Madame A-, returning from 
 
 being prima donna in Mexico, in a packet called after 
 the opera in which she was there a favorite, with her 
 
 husband Sehor V-and her child. There is M. 
 
 B-with moustaches like a bird’s nest; a pretty 
 
 widow in deep affliction, at least in deep mourning; 
 a maiden lady going out as a governess, and every 
 variety of Spaniard and Havanero. So now we are 
 
 alone, C-n and I, and my French femme-de- 
 
 chambre, with her air of Dowager Duchess, and 
 moreover sea-sick. 
 
CONTRARY WINDS. 
 
 3 
 
 28 tA. — When I said I liked a sea life, I did not 
 mean to be understood as liking a merchant ship, 
 with an airless cabin, and with every variety of disa¬ 
 greeable odor. As a French woman on board, with 
 the air of an afflicted porpoise, and with more truth 
 than elegance, expresses it: “Tout devient puant, 
 me me l’eau-de-cologne.” 
 
 The wind is still contrary, and the Norma, beating 
 up and down, makes but little way. We have gone 
 seventy-four miles, and of these advanced but forty. 
 Every one being sick to-day, the deck is nearly de¬ 
 serted. The most interesting object I have discovered 
 on board, is a pretty little deaf and dumb girl, very 
 lively and with an intelligent face, who has been 
 teaching me to speak on my fingers. The infant 
 
 heir of the house of-has shown his good taste 
 
 by passing the day in squalling. M. B-, pale, dirty 
 
 and much resembling a brigand out of employ,rhas 
 traversed the deck with uneasy footsteps and a^cigar 
 appearing from out his moustaches, like a light in a 
 tangled forest, or a jack-o-lantern in a marshy thicket. 
 A fat Spaniard has been discoursing upon the glories 
 of olla podrida. Au reste, we are slowly pursuing 
 our way, and at this rate might reach Cuba in three 
 months. 
 
 And the stars are shining, quiet and silvery. All 
 without is soft and beautiful, and no doubt the Norma 
 herself looks all in unison with the scene, balancing 
 herself like a lazy swan, white and graciously. So 
 it is without, and within, there is miserable sea-sick¬ 
 ness, bilge-water, and all the unavoidable disagree¬ 
 ables of a small packet. 
 
4 
 
 MORNING IN THE CABIN. 
 
 •31sf.— Three days have passed without anything 
 worthy of notice having occurred, except that we 
 already feel the difference of temperature. The pas¬ 
 sengers are still enduring sea-sickness in all its 
 phases. 
 
 This morning opened with an angry dispute be¬ 
 tween two of the gentlemen, on the subject of the 
 Cuban lotteries, and they ended by applying to each 
 other epithets which, however much they might be 
 deserved, were certainly rather strong; but by dinner 
 time, they were amicably engaged in concocting 
 together an enormous tureen of gasjpachos, a sort of 
 salad, composed of bread, oil, vinegar, sliced onion 
 and garlic — and the fattest one declares that in 
 warm weather, a dish of gaspachos, with plenty of 
 garlic in it, makes him feel as fresh as a rose. He 
 must indeed be a perfect bouquet. 
 
 The opening of morning is dramatic in our narrow 
 cabin. About twenty voices in Spanish, German, 
 Italian and broken English, strike up by degrees. 
 From a neighboring state room, Nid d’oiseau puts 
 forth his head. “ Stooar ! a toomlar ! here is no 
 vater ! ” “ Comin sir, comin.” “ Caramba ! Stoo- 
 
 ard ! ” “ Comin sir, comin ! ” “ Stuart ? vasser 
 
 und toel ! ” ££ Here sir ! ” “ Amigo ! how is the 
 
 wind ? ” (This is the waking up of el Sefior Minis- 
 tro, putting his head half suffocated out of his berth.) 
 “ Oh steward! steward!” “ Yes, miss.” “ Come 
 here, and look at this ! ” “ I ’ll fix it, miss,” — &c. 
 
 1st JSovember. — A fair wind after a stifling night, 
 and strong hopes of seeing the Bahama Banks on Sun¬ 
 day. Most people are now gradually ascending from 
 
SEAS PASSED OVER BY COLUMBUS. 
 
 5 
 
 the lower regions, and dragging themselves on deck 
 with pale and dejected countenances. Madame A. 
 has such a sweet-toned voice in speaking, especially 
 in the accents of her bella Italia, that it is refreshing 
 to listen to her. I have passed all day in reading 
 after a desultory fashion, “ Les enfans d’Edouard,” 
 by Casimir Delavigne, Washington Irving, d’Israeli’s 
 Curiosities of Literature, &,c. ; and it is rather sin¬ 
 gular that while there is a very tolerable supply of 
 English and French books here, I see but one or two 
 odd volumes in Spanish, although these packets are 
 constantly filled with people of that nation, going 
 and coming. Is it that they do not care for read¬ 
 ing, or that less attention is paid to them, than 
 to the French or American passengers? One would 
 think Cervantes, Lopede Vega, Calderon or Moratin, 
 better worth buying than many commonplace novels 
 which I find here. 
 
 3c7. — Yesterday, the wind blew soft as on a sum¬ 
 mer morning. A land bird flew into the ship. 
 To-day the wind has veered round, but the weather 
 continues charming. The sea is covered with mul¬ 
 titudes of small flying-fish. An infantile water-spout 
 appeared, and died in its birth. Mr.-, the Con¬ 
 
 sul, has been giving me an account of the agree¬ 
 able society in the Sandwich Islands ! A magnifi¬ 
 cent sunset, the sight of which compensates for all 
 the inconveniences of the voyage. The sky was 
 covered with black clouds lined with silver, and sur¬ 
 rounded by every variety of color ; deep blue, fleecy, 
 rose, violet and orange. The heavens are now thickly 
 studded with stars, numbers shooting across the 
 
6 
 
 THE DISCOVERER OF A WORLD. 
 
 blue expanse like messengers of light, glancing and 
 disappearing as if extinguished. 
 
 It is well to read the History of Columbus at sea, 
 but especially in these waters, where he wandered in 
 suspense, high-wrought expectation and firm faith ; 
 and to watch the signs which the noble mariner 
 observed in these latitudes ; the soft serenity of the 
 breezes, the clear blue of the heavens, the brilliancy 
 and number of the stars, the sea-weeds of the gulf, 
 which always drift in the direction of the wind, the 
 little land-birds that come like harbingers of good 
 tidings, the frequency of the shooting stars, and the 
 multitude of flying-fish. 
 
 As the shades of evening close around, and the 
 tropical sky glitters with the light of innumerable 
 stars, imagination transports us back to that century 
 which stands out in bold relief amidst other ages 
 rolling by comparatively undistinguished, and we see 
 as in a vision the Discoverer of a World, standing 
 on the deck of his caravel, as it bounded over the 
 unknown and mysterious waste of waters, his vigilant 
 eyes fixed on the west, like a Persian intently watch¬ 
 ing the rising of his god ; though his star was to 
 arise from whence the day-god sets. We see him 
 bending his gaze on the first dark line that separated 
 the watery sea from the blue of the heavens, striving 
 to penetrate the gloom of night, yet waiting with 
 patient faith until the dawn of day should bring the 
 long-wished for shores in sight. 
 
 6th. — For three days, three very long and uncom¬ 
 fortable days, the wind, with surprising constancy, 
 has continued to blow dead a-head. In ancient 
 
A SQUALL. 
 
 7 
 
 days, what altars might have smoked to tEoIus ! 
 Now, except in the increased puffing of consolatory 
 cigar-smoke, no propitiatory offerings are made to 
 unseen powers. There are indeed many mourning 
 signs amongst the passengers. Every one has tied 
 up his head in an angry-looking silken bandana 
 drawn over his nose with a dogged air. Beards are 
 unshaven, a black stubble covering the lemon-colored 
 countenance, which occasionally bears a look of 
 sulky defiance, as if its owner were like Juliet, “ past 
 hope, past cure, past help.” 
 
 1th. — This morning the monotony of fine weather 
 was relieved by a hearty squall, accompanied by tor¬ 
 rents of rain, much thunder and forked lightning. The 
 ship reeled to and fro like a drunken man, and the 
 passengers, as usual in such cases, performed various 
 involuntary evolutions, cutting right angles, sliding, 
 spinning round, and rolling over, as if Oberon’s 
 magic horn were playing an occasional blast amidst 
 the roaring winds ; whilst the stewards alone, like 
 Horace’s good man, walked serene amidst the wreck 
 of crockery and the fall of plates. Driven from our 
 strong hold on deck, indiscriminately crammed in 
 below, like figs in a drum ; “ weltering,” as Carlyle 
 has it, “ like an Egyptian pitcher of tamed vipers,” 
 the cabin windows all shut in, we tried to take it 
 coolly, in spite of the suffocating heat. 
 
 There is a child on board who is certainly possess¬ 
 ed ; not by a witty, malicious demon, a diable boiteux, 
 but by a teasing, stupid, wicked imp, which inspires 
 him with the desire of tormenting everything human 
 that comes within his reach. Should he escape 
 
8 
 
 OCCUPATIONS ON SHIP-BOARD. 
 
 being thrown overboard, it will shew a wonderful 
 degree of forbearance on the part of the passengers. 
 
 8th. — The weather is perfect, but the wind inex¬ 
 orable ; and the passengers, with their heads tied up, 
 look more gloomy than ever. Some sit dejected in 
 corners; and some quarrel with their neighbors, thus 
 finding a safety-valve by which their wrath may 
 escape. 
 
 9th. — There is no change in the wind, yet the 
 gentlemen have all brightened up, taken off their 
 head-kerchiefs and shaved, as if ashamed of their six 
 days' impatience, and making up their minds to a 
 sea life. This morning we saw land ; a long, low 
 ridge of hills on the Island of Eleuthera, where they 
 make salt, and Avhere there are many negroes. 
 Neither salt nor negroes visible to the naked eye ; 
 nothing but the gray outline of the hills, melting into 
 the sea and sky ; and having tacked about all day, 
 we found ourselves in the evening precisely opposite 
 to this same island. There are Job’s comforters on 
 board, who assure us that they have been thirty-six 
 days between New York and la “joya mas preciosa 
 de la corona de Espaha.” 1 
 
 For my part, I feel no impatience, having rather a 
 dislike to changing my position when tolerable, and 
 the air is so fresh and laden with balm, that it seems 
 to blow over some paradise of sweets, some land of 
 fragrant spices. The sea also is a mirror, and I have 
 read Marryatt’s Pirate for the first time. 
 
 Thus then we stand at eight o’clock, p. m. ; wind 
 
 1 The most precious jewel in the Spanish crown, the name 
 given to Cuba. 
 
OCCUPATIONS ON SHIP-BOARD. 
 
 9 
 
 a-head, and little of it; performing a zig-zag march 
 between Eleuthera and Abaco. On deck, the pretty 
 widow lies in an easy chair, surrounded by her coun¬ 
 trymen, who discourse about sugar, molasses, choco¬ 
 late, and other local topics, together with the relative 
 merits of Cuba as compared with the rest of the 
 
 known world. Madame A--is studying her part 
 
 of Elizabetta in the opera of Roberto Devereux, which 
 she is to bring out in Havana, but the creaking of 
 the Norma is sadly at variance with harmony. A 
 pale German youth, in dressing-gown and slippers, is 
 studying Schiller. An ingenious youngster is care¬ 
 fully conning a well-thumbed note, which looks like 
 a milliner’s girl’s last billetdoux. The little possede 
 is burning brown paper within an inch of the 
 curtains of a state-room, while the steward is dragging 
 it from him. Others are gradually dropping into 
 their berths, like ripe nuts from a tree. Thus are 
 we all pursuing our vocations. 
 
 9th. — Wind dead a-head ! I console myself with 
 Cinq-Mars and Jacob Faithful. But the weather is 
 lovely. A young moon in her first quarter, like a 
 queen in her minority, glitters like a crescent on the 
 brow of night. 
 
 Towards evening the long wished for lighthouse of 
 Abaco (built by the English) shewed her charitable 
 and revolving radiance. But our ship, Penelope-like, 
 undoes by night what she has performed by day, and 
 her course is backward and crabbish. A delicious 
 smell of violets is blowing from the land. 
 
 10 th. — A fair wind. The good tidings commu¬ 
 nicated by the A-, toute rayonnante de joie. A 
 
10 
 
 BERRY ISLANDS. 
 
 fair wind, and a bright blue sea, cool and refreshing 
 breezes, the waves sparkling, and the ship going gal¬ 
 lantly over the waters. So far, our voyage may 
 have been tedious, but the most determined landsman 
 must allow that the weather has been charming. 
 
 Sunday at sea ; and though no bells are tolling, 
 and no hymns are chanted, the blue sky above and 
 the blue ocean beneath us, form one vast temple, 
 where, since the foundations of the earth and sea 
 were laid, Day unto day uttcreth speech, and night 
 unto night showeth knowledge. 
 
 This morning we neared the Berry Islands, un¬ 
 productive and rocky, as the geography-books would 
 say. One of these islands belongs to a colored man, 
 who bought it for fifty dollars — a cheaply-purchased 
 sovereignty. He, his wife and children, with their 
 negro slaves! live there, and cultivate vegetables to 
 sell at New York, or at the different ships which pass 
 that way. Had the wind been favorable, they would 
 probably have sent us out a boat with fresh vegeta¬ 
 bles, fish, and fruit, which would have been very ac¬ 
 ceptable. We saw, not far from the shore, the 
 wreck of a two-masted vessel; a sad sight to those 
 who pass over the same waters to see 
 
 “ A brave vessel, 
 
 Who had, no doubt, some noble creatures in her, 
 
 Dashed all to pieces ! ” 
 
 Who had, at least, some of God’s creatures in her. 
 Anything but that! I am like Gonzalo, and “would 
 fain die a dry death.” 
 
 We are now on the Bahama Banks, the water 
 
EVENING IN A TROPICAL SEA. 
 
 11 
 
 very clear and blue, with a creamy froth, looking as 
 if it flowed over pearls and turquoises. An English 
 schooner man-of-war (a boy- of-war in size) made all 
 sail towards us, doubtless hoping we were a slaver; 
 but, on putting us to the test of his spy-glass, the 
 captain, we presume, perceived that the general 
 tinge of countenance was lemon rather than negro, 
 and so abandoned his pursuit. 
 
 This evening on the Banks. It would be difficult 
 to imagine a more placid and lovely scene. Every¬ 
 thing perfectly calm, all sail set, and the heavens 
 becoming gradually sprinkled with silver stars. The 
 sky blue, and without a cloud, except where the sun 
 has just set, the last crimson point sinking in the 
 calm sea and leaving a long retinue of rainbow-co¬ 
 lored clouds, deep crimson tinged with bright silver, 
 and melting away into gray, pale vapor. 
 
 On goes the vessel, stately and swanlike; the 
 water of the same turquoise blue, covered with a 
 light pearly froth, and so clear that we see the large 
 sponges at the bottom. Every minute they heave 
 the lead. “ By the mark three.” “ By the mark 
 three, less a quarter.” “ By the mark twain and a 
 half,” (fifteen feet, the vessel drawing thirteen,) two 
 feet between us and the bottom. The sailor sings 
 it out like the first line of a hymn in short metre, 
 doled out by the parish clerk. I wish Madame 
 
 A-were singing it instead of he. “ By the mark 
 
 three, less a quarter.” To this tune, the only sound 
 breaking the stillness of the night, I dropped to 
 sleep. The captain passed the night anxiously, now 
 
12 
 
 PAN .OF MATANZAS. 
 
 \ 
 
 looking out for lights on the Banks, now at the 
 helm, or himself sounding the lead ; 
 
 “For some must watch whilst others sleep ; 
 
 Thus wags the world away.” 
 
 11 th .— Beautiful morning, and fair wind. About 
 eight we left the Banks. Just then we observed, 
 that the sailor who sounded, having sung out five, 
 then six, then in a few minutes seven, suddenly 
 found no bottom, as if we had fallen off all at once 
 from the brink of the Bank into an abyss. 
 
 A fellow-captain, and passenger of our captain’s, 
 told me this morning, that he spoke the ship which 
 carried out Governor and Mrs. McLean to Cape- 
 Coast Castle— the unfortunate L. E. L. It does not 
 seem to me at all astonishing, that the remedies, 
 which she took in England without injury, should 
 have proved fatal to her in that wretched climate. 
 
 We have been accompanied all the morning by a 
 fine large ship, going full sail, the Orleans, Captain 
 Sears, bound for New Orleans.A long semi¬ 
 
 circular line of black rocks in sight; some of a round 
 form, one of which is called the Death’s Head ; another 
 of the shape of a turtle, and some two or three miles 
 long. At the extremity of one of these, the English 
 are building a light-house. 
 
 12 th .— We are opposite the Pan of Matanzas, 
 about sixty miles from Havana. Impatience be¬ 
 comes general, but the breeze rocks us up and down, 
 and we gain little. This day, like all last days on 
 board, has been remarkably tedious, though the 
 country gradually becomes more interesting. There 
 
ARRIVAL AT HAVANA. 
 
 13 
 
 is a universal brushing-up amongst the passengers; 
 some shaving, some with their heads plunged into 
 tubs of cold water. So may have appeared Noah’s 
 ark, when the dove did not return, and the passen¬ 
 gers prepared for terra firma, after a forty days’ 
 voyage. Our Mount Ararat was the Morro Castle 
 which, dark and frowning, presented itself to our 
 eyes, at six o’clock, p. m. 
 
 Nothing can be more striking than the first ap¬ 
 pearance of this fortress, starting up from the solid 
 rock, with its towers and battlements, while here, to 
 remind us of our latitude, we see a few feathery 
 cocoas growing amidst the herbage that covers the 
 banks near the castle. By its side, covering a con¬ 
 siderable extent of ground, is the fortress called the 
 Cabana, painted rose-color, with the angles of its 
 bastions white. 
 
 But there is too much to look at now. I must 
 finish my letter in Havana. 
 
 Havana, 13th November. 
 
 Last evening, as we entered the beautiful bay, 
 everything struck us as strange and picturesque. The 
 soldiers of the garrison, the prison built by General 
 Tacon, the irregular houses with their fronts painted 
 red or pale blue, and with the cool but uninhabited 
 look produced by the absence of glass windows ; the 
 merchant ships and large men-of-war ; vessels from 
 every port in the commercial world, the little boats 
 gliding amongst them with their snow-white sails, the 
 negroes on the wharf — nothing European. The heat 
 was great, that of a July day, without any freshness 
 in the air. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 2 
 
14 
 
 HANDSOME HOUSE IN HAVANA. 
 
 As we approached the wharf, the noise and bustle 
 increased. The passengers all crowded upon deck, 
 and we had scarcely anchored, when various little 
 boats were seen making for the Norma. First boat 
 brought an officer with the salutations of the Captain- 
 General to his Excellency, with every polite offer of 
 service ; second boat brought the Administrador of 
 the Yntendente, (the Count de Villa Nueva) with 
 the same civilities ; the third, the master of the house 
 where we now are, and whence I indite these facts; 
 the fourth, the Italian Opera, which rushed simulta¬ 
 neously into the arms of the A-i; the fifth, pro¬ 
 
 saic custom-house officers ; the sixth, a Havana Count 
 and Marquis ; the seventh, the family of General 
 
 M-o. Finally, we were hoisted over the ship’s 
 
 side in a chair, into the government boat, and rowed 
 to the shore. As it was rather dark when we arrived, 
 and we were driven to our destination in a volante, 
 we did not see much of the city. We could but ob¬ 
 serve that the streets were narrow, the houses irregu¬ 
 lar, most people black, and the volante, an amusing- 
 looking vehicle, looking behind like a black insect 
 with high shoulders, and with a little black postilion 
 on a horse or mule, with an enormous pair of boots 
 and a fancy uniform. 
 
 The house, in which, by the hospitality of the 
 H-a family we are installed, has from its win¬ 
 
 dows, which front the bay, the most varied and inter¬ 
 esting view imaginable. As it is the first house, 
 Spanish fashion, which I have entered, I must de¬ 
 scribe it to you before I sleep. The house forms a 
 great square, and you enter the court, round which 
 
SIGHTS AND SOUNDS. 
 
 15 
 
 are the offices, the rooms for the negroes, coal-house, 
 bath-room, &c., and in the middle of which stand the 
 volantes. Proceed up stairs, and enter a large gallery 
 which runs all round the house. Pass into the Sala, 
 a large cool apartment, with marble floor and tables, 
 and chaises-longues with elastic cushions, chairs and 
 arm-chairs of cane. A drapery of white muslin and 
 blue silk divides this from a second and smaller draw¬ 
 ing-room, now serving as my dressing-room, and beau¬ 
 tifully fitted up, with gothic toilette-table, inlaid ma¬ 
 hogany bureau, marble centre and side-tables, fine 
 mirrors, cane sofas and chairs, green and gold paper. 
 A drapery of white muslin and rose-colored silk divides 
 this from a bedroom, also fitted up with all manner 
 of elegancies. French beds with blue silk coverlids 
 and clear musquito curtains, and fine lace. A dra¬ 
 pery divides this on one side from the gallery ; and 
 this room opens into others which run all round the 
 house. The floors are marble or stucco — the roofs 
 beams of pale blue wood placed transversely, and the 
 whole has an air of agreeable coolness. Everything 
 is handsome without being gaudy, and admirably 
 adapted for the climate. The sleeping apartments 
 have no windows, and are dark and cool, while the 
 drawing-rooms have large windows down to the floor, 
 with green shutters, kept closed till the evening. 
 
 The mosquitoes have now commenced their evening 
 song, a signal that it is time to put out the lights. The 
 moon is shining on the bay, and a faint sound of mili¬ 
 tary music is heard in the distance, while the sea 
 moans with a sad but not unpleasing monotony. To 
 all these sounds, I retire to rest. 
 
LETTER THE SECOND. 
 
 Havana aristocracy — Lucia de Lammermoor—La Rossi and 
 
 Montresor — Brig of war — Countess de V-a — Dinner at 
 
 H-a’s — Southerly winds — View from the balcony — Quinta 
 
 of Count Y-a — San Cristobal—Mass at San Felipe — 
 
 Erard Harp — Dinner at General M-o’s — A Dessert at 
 
 Havana — Queen of Spain’s birthday — Dinner at the Ynten- 
 dencia — La Pantanelli — Theatre of Tacon — Railroad— Cure 
 
 by lightning — Shops — Ball at the Countess F-a’s — Last 
 
 visit — Souvenirs. 
 
 15th. — We expected Hospitality and a good recep¬ 
 tion, but certainly all our expectations have been sur¬ 
 passed, and the last few days have been spent in 
 such a round of festivity, that not a moment has 
 been left for writing. At home we have held a 
 levee to all that is most distinguished in Havana. 
 Counts, Marquesses and Generals with stars and 
 crosses, have poured in and poured out ever since 
 our arrival. 1 do not pretend to form any judgment 
 of Havana. We have seen it too much en beau. 
 
 Last evening we found time to go to the theatre. 
 The opera was Lucia de Lammermoor. The prima 
 donna la Rossi has a voice of much sweetness, sings 
 correctly and with taste, is graceful in her move¬ 
 ments, but sadly deficient in strength. Still she suits 
 the character represented, and comes exactly up to 
 my idea of poor Lucy, devoted and broken-hearted, 
 
THE THEATRE. 
 
 IT 
 
 physically and morally weak. Though the story is 
 altered, and the interest weakened, how graceful the 
 music is ! how lovely and full of melody ! The or¬ 
 chestra is good, and composed of blacks and whites, 
 like the notes of a piano, mingled in harmonious con¬ 
 fusion. 
 
 The theatre is remarkably pretty and airy, and the 
 pit struck us as being particularly clean and respect¬ 
 able. All the seats are red leather arm-chairs, and 
 all occupied by well-dressed people. 
 
 At the end of the first act, we went round to the 
 Countess F——a’s box, to return a visit which she 
 had made me in the morning. We found her ex¬ 
 tremely agreeable and full of intelligence, also with a 
 very decided air of fashion. She was dressed in fawn- 
 colored satin, with large pearls. At the end of the 
 second act, Lucia was taken ill, her last Aria missed 
 out, and her monument driven on the stage without 
 further ceremony. Montresor, the Ravenswood of 
 the piece, came in, sung and stabbed himself with 
 immense enthusiasm. It is a pity that his voice is 
 deserting him, while his taste and feeling remain. 
 The house has altogether a French look. The boxes 
 are private, that is, the property of individuals, but 
 are not shut in, which, in this climate, would be suf¬ 
 focating. We passed out through a long file of sol¬ 
 diers. The sudden transition from Yankee land to 
 this military Spanish negro land, is dreamy. 
 
 The General de la Marina, (Anglice admiral of 
 the Station,) called some days ago, and informed us 
 that there is a brig of war destined to convey us to 
 Vera Cruz. 
 
 2 ! 
 
18 
 
 DINNER AT H 
 
 ■a’s. 
 
 Amongst the ladies who have called on me, I find 
 
 none more charming than the Countess de V-a. 
 
 Her voice is agreeable, her manners cordial and easy, 
 her expression beautiful from goodness, with animated 
 eyes and fine teeth, her dress quiet and rich. She 
 is universally beloved here. I receive from her, nearly 
 every morning, a bouquet of the loveliest flowers 
 from her quinta — roses, carnations, heliotrope, &c. 
 
 The dinner at II-a’s to-day was a perfect feast. 
 
 I sat between the Count de F-a and the Count de 
 
 S-V-, a millionaire. Everything was served 
 
 in French white and gold porcelain, which looks par¬ 
 ticularly cool and pretty in this climate. The Count 
 de P-r was there and his brother ; the latter a gen¬ 
 
 tlemanly and intelligent man, with a great taste for 
 music, and whose daughter is a first rate singer, and 
 a charming person. After dinner we rose, according 
 to custom, and went into an adjoining room, while 
 they arranged the dessert, consisting of every imagin¬ 
 able and unimaginable sweetmeat, with fruits, ices, &c. 
 The fruits I have not yet learnt to like. They are 
 certainly wonderful and delicious productions of na¬ 
 ture ; but to eat eggs and custards and butter oft’ the 
 trees seems unnatural. 
 
 The heat to-day is terrible, with a suffocating 
 south wind blowing, and were the houses not built 
 as they are, would be unbearable. The dinner is 
 served in the gallery, which is spacious and cool. 
 
 After dinner, Senor Don P-o H-a rose, 
 
 and addressing C-n, pronounced a poetical im¬ 
 
 promptu, commemorating the late victory of Espar- 
 tero, and congratulating C-n on his mission to 
 
SAN CRISTOBAL. 
 
 19 
 
 the Mexican Republic. We then adjourned to the 
 balcony, where the air was delightful, a cool evening 
 breeze having suddenly sprung up. A large ship, 
 full sail, and various barks, passed the Morro. There 
 were negroes with bare legs walking on the wall, car¬ 
 rying parcels, &c.; volantes passing by with their 
 black-eyed occupants in full dress, short sleeves 
 and flowers in their hair; well-dressed, martial-look¬ 
 ing Spanish soldiers marching by, and making tolera¬ 
 bly free remarks upon the ladies in the volantes. 
 
 We had a visit from the Captain-General. 
 
 In the evening we went out to see the Countess 
 
 De V-a, at her pretty quinta, a short way out of 
 
 town, and walked in the garden by moonlight, 
 amongst flowers and fountains. The little Count is 
 arleady one of the chamberlains to the Queen, and a 
 diamond key has been sent him by Queen Cristina 
 in token of her approbation of his father’s services. 
 These country retreats are delightful after the narrow 
 
 streets and impure air of the city. We saw 
 
 there a good engraving of Queen Victoria, with the 
 Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Normanby. 
 
 11th. — Yesterday we went to see the procession of 
 the patron saint, San Cristobal, from the balconies of 
 the Yntendencia. It is a fine, spacious building, and, 
 together with the Captain-General’s palace, stands 
 in the Plaza de Armas, which was crowded with ne¬ 
 groes and negresses, all dressed in white, with white 
 muslin and blonde mantillas, framing and showing off 
 their dusky physiognomies. 
 
 Two regiments, with excellent bands of music, 
 conducted the procession, composed of monks and 
 
20 
 
 DJNNER AT GENERAL SI- 
 
 •O S. 
 
 priests. San Cristobal, a large figure with thick gold 
 legs, surrounded by gold angels with gold wings, 
 was carried by to the music of “ Suoni latromba,” to 
 which were adapted the words of a hymn in praise 
 of Liberty. 
 
 We attended mass in the morning in the church 
 of San Felipe, and entered, preceded, according to 
 custom, by a little negro footman carrying a piece of 
 carpet. There were few people in church, but the 
 grouping was picturesque. The black faces of the 
 negresses, with their white mantillas and white satin 
 shoes, the black silk dresses and black lace mantillas 
 of the Havana ladies, with their white faces and 
 black eyes and little liveried negroes standing behind 
 them — the officers, music and long-bearded priests, 
 all were very effective. 
 
 Found, on my return, an excellent Erard harp, 
 sent me by the Marqucsa de A-s, a pretty wo¬ 
 
 man and female Croesus. 
 
 A splendid entertainment was given us to-day by 
 
 General M-o. His house is large and cool ; the 
 
 dinner, as usual, in the gallery, and although there 
 were ninety-seven guests, and as many negroes in 
 waiting, the heat was not oppressive. The jewels of 
 the ladies were superb, especially the diamonds of 
 
 the M-family ; sprays, necklaces, earrings, really 
 
 beautiful. The Marquesa de A-wore a set of 
 
 emeralds the size of small eggs. She had a pretty, 
 graceful-looking daughter with her, with beautiful 
 eyes. Even the men were well sprinkled with dia¬ 
 monds and rubies. 
 
 The dessert, from variety and quantity, was a real 
 
queen of Spain’s birth-day. 21 
 
 curiosity. Immense vases and candelabras of ala¬ 
 baster were placed at different distances on the table, 
 and hundreds of porcelain dishes were filled with 
 sweetmeats and fruits — sweetmeats of every de¬ 
 scription, from the little meringue, called “ mouthful 
 for a queen,” to the blancmanger made of supreme 
 de volaille and milk. 
 
 After dinner our health was drank, and another 
 poetical address pronounced. The evening concluded 
 with music and the Havana country dances. 
 
 2 Oth. — Yesterday being the Queen of Spain’s 
 birth-day, a dinner was given to us at the Yntenden- 
 cia. The house in size is a palace, and the apart¬ 
 ments innumerable. The dinner very elegant, and 
 the dessert arranged in another room, a curiosity as 
 usual for profusion and variety. Her Majesty’s 
 
 health was proposed by Don B—*—o H—-a, and 
 
 so well-timed, that all the guns of the forts fired a 
 salute, it being sunset, just as the toast was conclud¬ 
 ed, which was drank with real enthusiasm and hearty 
 good-will. According to Spanish custom, the aristo¬ 
 cracy generally se tutoient, and call each other by 
 their Christian names ; indeed, they are almost all 
 connected by intermarriages. You may guess at an 
 inferior in rank, only by their increased respect to¬ 
 wards him. 
 
 We stood on the balcony in the evening. The 
 scene was beautiful, the temperature rather warm, 
 yet delicious from the softness of the breeze. The 
 moon rose so bright that she seemed like the sun 
 shining through a silvery veil. Groups of figures 
 were sauntering about in the square, under the trees, 
 
22 
 
 THEATRE OF TACON. 
 
 and two bands having stationed themselves with 
 lamps and music, played alternately pieces from 
 Mozart and Bellini. We regretted leaving so de¬ 
 lightful a scene for the theatre, where we arrived in 
 time to hear La Pantanelli sing an Aria, dressed in 
 helmet and tunic, and to see La Jota Arragonesa 
 danced by two handsome Spanish girls in good style. 
 
 One evening we went to the theatre of Tacon, to 
 the Captain-General’s box. It is certainly a splendid 
 house, large, airy and handsome. The play was the 
 “ Campanero de San Pablo,” which though generally 
 liked, appears to me a complicated and unnatural 
 composition, with one or two interesting scenes. 
 The best actor was he who represented the blind 
 man. The chief actress is an overgrown dame, all 
 fat and dimples, who kept up a constant sobbing and 
 heaving of her chest, yet never getting rid of an 
 eternal smirk upon her face. A bolero, danced after¬ 
 wards by two Spanish damsels in black and silver, 
 was very refreshing. 
 
 23c/. — Tomorrow we sail in the Jason, should 
 the wind not prove contrary. Visits, dinners, and 
 parties have so occupied our time, that to write has 
 been next to impossible. Of the country we have, 
 from the same reason, seen little, and the people we 
 are only acquainted with in full dress, which is not 
 the way to judge of them truly. One morning, in¬ 
 deed, we dedicated to viewing the works of the Yn- 
 tendente, the railroad, and the water-filterers. He 
 and the Countess, and a party of friends, accompa¬ 
 nied us. 
 
 The country through which the railroad passes, is 
 
CURE BY LIGHTNING. 
 
 23 
 
 flat and rather monotonous ; nevertheless, the quan¬ 
 tity of wild flowers, which appeared for the most 
 part of the convolvulus species, as we glanced past 
 them — the orange-trees, the clumps of palm and 
 cocoa, the plantain with its gigantic leaves, the fresh 
 green coffee-plant, the fields of sugar-cane of a still 
 brighter green, the half-naked negroes, the low 
 wooden huts, and, still more, the scorching sun in 
 the month of November, — all was new to us, and 
 sufficient to remind us of the leagues of ocean we 
 had traversed, though this is but a halt on our voyage. 
 
 At the village where the cars stopped, we lis¬ 
 tened with much amusement to the story of a fat, 
 comfortable-looking individual, who was cured by 
 lightning in the following manner. He was in the 
 last stage of a decline, when, one hot July morn¬ 
 ing, he was knocked down by a thunderbolt, a ball 
 of fire, which entered his side, ran all through his 
 body, and came out at his arm. At the place where 
 the ball made its exit, a large ulcer was formed, and 
 when it dispersed he found himself in perfect health, 
 in which he has continued ever since ! In such cases 
 the “bottled lightning,” demanded by Mrs. Nickleby’s 
 admirer, might be a valuable remedy. 
 
 Of course, I could not leave Havana without de¬ 
 voting one morning to shopping. The shops have 
 most seducing names — Hope, Wonder, Desire, &c. 
 The French modistes seem to be wisely improving 
 their time, by charging respectable prices for their 
 work. The shopkeepers bring their goods out to 
 the volante, it not being the fashion for ladies to en¬ 
 ter the shops, though I took the privilege of a for- 
 
24 
 
 BALL AT THE COUNTESS F 
 
 a’s. 
 
 eigner to infringe this rule occasionally. Silks and 
 satins very dear — lace and muslin very reasonable, 
 was, upon the whole, the result of my investigation ; 
 but as it only lasted two hours, and that my sole 
 purchases of any consequence were an indispensable 
 mantilla, and a pair of earrings, I give my opinion 
 for the present with due diffidence. 
 
 I can speak with more decision on the subject of a 
 great ball given us by the Countess F-a, last even¬ 
 
 ing, which was really superb. The whole house was 
 thrown open — there was a splendid supper, quanti¬ 
 ties of refreshments, and the whole select aristocracy 
 of Havana. Diamonds on all the women, jewels and 
 orders on all the men, magnificent lustres and mirrors, 
 and a capital band of music in the gallery. 
 
 The Captain-General was the only individual in a 
 plain dress. He made himself very agreeable, in good 
 French. About one hundred couple stood up in each 
 country dance, but the rooms are so large and so ju¬ 
 diciously lighted, that we did not feel at all warm. 
 Waltzes, quadrilles, and these long Spanish dances, 
 succeeded each other. Almost all the girls have fine 
 eyes and beautiful figures, but without color, or much 
 animation. The finest diamonds were those of the 
 
 Countess F-a, particularly her necklace, which 
 
 was undeniable. 
 
 Walking through the rooms after supper, we were 
 amused to see the negroes and negresses helping them¬ 
 selves plentifully to the sweetmeats, uncorking and 
 drinking fresh bottles of Champagne, and devouring 
 everything on the supper-tables, without the slightest 
 concern for the presence either of their master or 
 
SOUVENIRS. 
 
 25 
 
 mistress ; in fact, behaving like a multitude of spoilt 
 children, who are sure of meeting with indulgence, 
 and presume upon it. . 
 
 Towards morning we were led down stairs to a 
 large suite of rooms, containing a library of several 
 thousand volumes ; where coffee, cakes, &c., were 
 prepared in very beautiful Sevres porcelaine and gold 
 plate. We left the house, at last, to the music of the 
 national hymn of Spain, which struck up as we 
 passed through the gallery. 
 
 Should the north wind, the dreaded Norte not 
 blow, we sail tomorrow, and have spent the day in 
 receiving farewell visits. We also went to the the¬ 
 atre, where every one predicts we shall not get off 
 to-morrow. The play was “ Le Gamin de Paris,” 
 translated. After our return, I paid a very late visit 
 
 to the P-r family, who live close by us, and now, 
 
 at two in the morning, I finish my letter sleepily. 
 Many beautiful souvenirs have been sent us, and 
 
 amongst others, the Count de S—— V-has just 
 
 sent C-n a model of the palace of Madrid, one 
 
 of the most beautiful and ingenious pieces of work¬ 
 manship possible. It is carved in wood, with aston¬ 
 ishing accuracy and delicacy. 
 
 My next letter will be dated on board the Jason. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 3 
 
LETTER THE THIRD. 
 
 Departure in the Jason — Spanish Captain and Officers — Life on 
 board a Man of War — “ Balances ” — Fishing — “ Le petit 
 tambour ” — Cocoa-nuts — A Norte — Spanish proverb — Peak 
 of Orizava — Theory and practice — Norte chocolatero — Con¬ 
 trary winds— Chain of Mountains — Goleta. 
 
 Jason, 2-lth November. 
 
 This morning, at six o’clock, we breakfasted, together 
 with Captain Estrada, the commander of the Jason, 
 at the Casa H - a ; and the wind being fair, re¬ 
 
 paired shortly after in volantes to the wharf, accom¬ 
 panied by our hospitable host, and several of our 
 acquaintances ; entered the boat, looked our last of 
 the Palace and the Yntendencia, and of Havana 
 itself, where we had arrived as strangers, and which 
 now, in fifteen days, had begun to assume a familiar 
 aspect, and to appear interesting^ in our eyes, by the 
 mere force of human sympathy ; and were transported 
 to the ship, where a line of marines, drawn up to re¬ 
 ceive us, presented arms as we entered. The morn¬ 
 ing was beautiful ; little wind, but fair. We took 
 leave of our friends, waived our handkerchiefs to the 
 balconies in return for signals from scarcely-distin- 
 guishable figures, passed beneath the red-tinted Ca¬ 
 bana and the stately Mono, and were once more upon 
 the deep, with a remembrance behind, and a hope 
 before us. Our Bergantina is a handsome vessel, 
 
CAPTAIN AND OFFICERS. 
 
 27 
 
 with twenty-five guns, five officers, a doctor, chaplain 
 and purser, and one hundred and fifty men. 
 
 We find the commander very attentive, and a per¬ 
 fect gentleman, like almost all of his class, and though 
 very young in appearance, he has been twenty-nine 
 years in the service. 
 
 25th. — The weather delightful, and the ship going 
 at the rate of five knots an hour. The accommoda¬ 
 tions in a brig not destined for passengers are of course 
 limited. There is a large cabin for the officers, sepa¬ 
 rated by a smaller one, belonging to the captain, 
 wffiich he has given up to us. 
 
 At seven o’clock, C-n rises, and at eight, a 
 
 marine sentinel, transformed into a lady’s page, whom 
 we are taking to Mexico as Porter, brings us some 
 very delicious chocolate. He is followed by the Cap¬ 
 tain’s familiar, an unhappy-looking individual, pale, 
 lank and lean, with the physiognomy of a methodist 
 parson, and in general appearance like a weed that 
 has grown up in one night. He tremblingly, and with 
 most rueful countenance, carries a small plate of sugar- 
 biscuits. These originals having vacated the cabin, I 
 proceed to dress, an operation of some difficulty, 
 which being performed tant him que mal, I repair up 
 stairs, armed with book and fan, and sit on deck till 
 ten o’clock, when the familiar’s lamentable announce¬ 
 ment of breakfast, takes us down stairs. The cook 
 being French, the comestibles are decidedly good, and 
 were the artist a little less of an oil and more of a 
 water painter, I individually would prefer his style. 
 We have every variety of fish, meat, fowl, fruit, 
 clulces and wines. 
 
28 
 
 FISHING. 
 
 A very long interval has to be filled up, by reading, 
 writing, sitting or walking upon deck, as suits the 
 taste of the individual, or by drinking orangeade, or 
 by sleeping, or by any other ingenious resource for 
 killing time. At five, dinner, at which no one joins 
 us but the captain and one officer; and after dinner, 
 on deck till bed-time, walking about, or gazing on the 
 sky or sea, or listening to the songs of the sailors. 
 
 2 6th .—Little wind, but a day of such abominably 
 cruel “ balances ,” as they call them, that one is 
 tempted to find rest by jumping overboard. Every¬ 
 thing broken or breaking. Even the cannons dis¬ 
 gorge their balls, which fall out by their own weight. 
 
 28th. — We have had two days of perfect weather, 
 though very warm; the sky blue, without one cloud. 
 To-day we are on the sound, and have lain to, about 
 noon, to let the sailors fish, thereby losing an hour or 
 so of fair wind, and catching a preposterous number 
 of fish of immense size. The water was so clear, 
 that we could see the fish rush and seize the bait as 
 fast as it was thrown in. Sometimes a huge shark 
 would bite the fish in two, so that the poor finny 
 creature was between Scylla and Charybdis. These 
 fish are called cherne and pargo, and at dinner were 
 pronounced good. At length a shark, in its whole¬ 
 sale greediness, seized the bait, and feeling the hook 
 in his horrid jaw, tugged most fiercely to release him¬ 
 self, but in vain. Twelve sailors hauled him in, when, 
 with distended jaws, he seemed to lbok out for the 
 legs of the men, whereupon they rammed the butt-end 
 of a harpoon down his throat, which put a stop to all 
 further proceedings on his part. He was said to be 
 
LE PETIT TAMBOUR. 
 
 29 
 
 u 
 
 >> 
 
 quite young, perhaps the child of doting parents. 
 The juvenile monster had, however, already cut three 
 rows of teeth. 
 
 We are sometimes amused in the evening, when 
 upon deck, by a little drummer, who invariably collects 
 all the sailors round him, and spins them long, endless 
 stories of his own invention, to which they listen with 
 intense interest. On he goes, without a moment’s 
 hesitation, inventing everything most improbable and 
 wonderful; of knights and giants and beautiful prin¬ 
 cesses, and imprisoned damsels, and poor peasants 
 becoming great kings. He is a little ugly, active fel¬ 
 low, with a turned-up nose, a merry eye and a laugh¬ 
 ing mouth. Amongst his axioms is the following 
 verse, which he sings with great expression. 
 
 Hasta los palos del monte 
 Tienen su destinacion 
 Unos nacen para santos 
 Y otros para hacer carbon. 
 
 which may be translated so : 
 
 Even the mountain-trees 
 Have their allotted goal, 
 
 For some are born for saints 
 Whilst others serve for coal. 
 
 2 9th. — Beautiful day, fair wind, great heat and 
 more fishing. At least thirty large fish were caught 
 this morning, also an infant shark, a grandchild who 
 had wandered forth to nibble, and met an untimely 
 grave. We have seen several alacrans, or scorpions 
 on board, but these are said not to be poisonous. 
 The ship is the perfection of cleanness. No disa- 
 3 * 
 
30 
 
 A SOUTH WIND. 
 
 greeable odor affects the olfactory nerves, in which 
 it has a singular advantage over all packets. This, 
 and having it all to ourselves, and the officers being 
 such perfect gentlemen and all so kind and attentive, 
 makes our voyage so far a mere pleasure trip. 
 
 We had some of the Countess de V-’s cocoa- 
 
 nuts, of which she sent us a great supply, pierced 
 this morning, each containing three tumblers of fresh 
 and delicious water. 
 
 Is* 1 December. — We are now about thirty leagues 
 from Vera Cruz, and if the wind blows a little fresher, 
 may reach it to-morrow. This is Sunday, but the 
 chaplain is too sick to say mass, and the heat is intense. 
 
 2 d .— An unpleasant variety — a Norte ! I knew 
 it was coming on, only by the face of the first lieu¬ 
 tenant when he looked at the barometer. His coun¬ 
 tenance fell as many degrees as the instrument. It 
 is very slight, but our entry into port will be delayed, 
 for, on the coast, these winds are most devoutly 
 dreaded. It has rained all day, and notwithstanding 
 the rolling of the ship, we attempted a game at chess, 
 but after having tried two games, abandoned it in 
 despair, a “balance ” having at the most interesting 
 period of each, overturned the board, and left the 
 victory undecided, somewhat after the fashion of 
 Homer’s goddess, when she enveloped the contend¬ 
 ing armies in a cloud. 
 
 4th. — Yesterday evening a south wind, and the 
 Spanish proverb says truly 
 
 “ Sur duro, 
 
 Norte Seguro.” 
 
 “ A south wind strong, 
 
 The norther ere long.” 
 
THE DOCTOR. 
 
 31 
 
 This morning the sky is covered with watery clouds, 
 yet we can see the Cofre de Perote and the peak of 
 Orizava, which are thirty leagues inland ! The latter, 
 called by the Mexicans, Citlal Tepetl, or the moun¬ 
 tain of the star, from the fire which used to burn on 
 its lofty summit, rises nineteen thousand five hundred 
 and fifty-one feet above the level of the sea. Covered 
 with perpetual snows, and rising far above clouds and 
 tempests, it is the first mountain which the navigator 
 discovers as he approaches these shores. 
 
 But the south wind continues and we are obliged 
 to turn our back to the coast. There is much impa¬ 
 tience on board. A-was taken ill, and declared 
 
 she had got the yellow fever. The doctor was sent 
 for, who, very sick himself, and holding by the table 
 to keep himself from falling, told her, without looking 
 at her very particularly, that there was nothing the 
 matter, only to keep herself “ quite quiet and still 
 and the ship rolling at the same moment, he pitched 
 head-foremost out of the cabin, showing practically 
 how much easier precept is than example. As we 
 shall no doubt have a norther after this, which may 
 last three days, our promised land is still at some 
 distance. 
 
 5 th. — The weather is charming, but the south¬ 
 west wind holds most implacably, and the barometer 
 has fallen five or six degrees, which, added to other 
 signs of the times known to navigators, causes all 
 hands to prepare for the dreaded enemy. 
 
 6th. — Job never was on board a ship. A norther, 
 not a very severe one, but what they call a Norte 
 chocolatero, that is, its shock tore a sail in two, as I 
 
32 
 
 HORRIBLE NIGHT. 
 
 tear this sheet of paper. The most ingenious person 
 I see is the “ master of the sails.” He sews most 
 excessively quick and well. Towards evening the 
 wind calmed, but the ship, tossed upon a horribly 
 swelled sea, became a mortal purgatory. Still the 
 wind is lulled, though Humboldt and others say that 
 a Norte must last forty-eight hours, and we have only 
 had it for twenty-four. We shall see. 
 
 1th .— A most horrible night! My hammock, 
 which I had foolishly preferred to a bed, not having 
 room to swing in, threw me furiously against the wall, 
 till fearing a broken head, I jumped out and lay on 
 the floor. To-day there is a comparative calm, a 
 faint continuation of the Norte, which is an air with 
 variations. Everything now seems melancholy and 
 monotonous. We have been tossed about during 
 four days in sight of Vera Cruz, and are now further 
 from it than before. The officers begin to look 
 miserable; even the cook with difficulty preserves 
 his equilibrium. 
 
 Sunday, 8th. — A Norte ! The sky is watery, and 
 covered with shapeless masses of reddish clouds. 
 This is a great day amongst all Spanish Catholics, 
 Le Virgen de la Concepcion, the patroness of Spain 
 and the Indies; but no mass to-day; the padre 
 sick, and the Norte blowing. What a succession of 
 long faces — walking barometers 1 
 
 9th. — Yesterday evening the wind held out false 
 hopes, and every one brightened up with caution, for 
 the wind, though faintly, blew from the right quar¬ 
 ter. The rain ceased, the weather cleared, and 
 “ hope, the charmer,” smiled upon us. The greater 
 
LITTLE WIND. 
 
 33 
 
 was our disappointment when the breeze died away, 
 when the wind veered to the north, and when once 
 more the most horrible rolling seized the unfortunate 
 Jason, as if it were possessed by a demon. Finding 
 it impossible to lie in my hammock, I stretched my¬ 
 self on the floor, where, during a night that seem¬ 
 ed interminable, we were tossed up and down, 
 knocked against the furniture, and otherwise mal¬ 
 treated. 
 
 This morning there is little wind, but that little 
 from the north, so that the termination of our voyage 
 appears as far off now as it did eight days ago. The 
 faces of all on board are calmly lugubrious. Little 
 said. A few Spanish shrugs interchanged with omi¬ 
 nous significance. 
 
 10th. — As there is only one particular wind dur¬ 
 ing which it is not dangerous to approach the coast, 
 namely, “ la brisa ,” the breeze which usually follows 
 the norther, we may spend our Christmas here. The 
 weather is beautiful, though very sultry, especially 
 during the calms which intervene between the nortes. 
 With books one might take patience, but I have 
 read and re-read backwards and forwards everything 
 I possess, or can find — reviews, magazines, a vol¬ 
 ume of Humboldt, even an odd volume of the “ Bar¬ 
 ber of Paris” — “Turkish Letters,” 'purporting to 
 be the translation of a continuation of Montesquieu’s 
 Lettres Persanes, and in which the hero, disguised as 
 a gardener, brings the Visier’s daughter a bouquet, 
 which she condescendingly receives, lying in bed a 
 l’Espagnole! I am now reduced to a very serious 
 Spanish work on the truth of Christianity. 
 
34 
 
 CONTRARY WIND. 
 
 This evening, to the joy of all on board, arose the 
 long-desired breeze. The ship went slowly and 
 steadily on her course, at first four, then eight knots 
 an hour. The captain, however, looked doubtingly, 
 and, indeed, towards morning, the wind changed to 
 the south, and our hopes died away. 
 
 11 th. — Contrary wind. A south, expected to be 
 followed by a “ norte seguro.” But now, at eleven, 
 a. m., it is quite calm, and very sultry, whilst to in¬ 
 crease, if possible, our weariness, a long range of lofty 
 mountains stretches along the horizon, from Punta 
 Delgada to the Cofre de Perote, and on till they 
 seem to sink in the ocean. Behind the Cofre, rises 
 Orizava, now like a white cloud, but this morning 
 tinged with a rosy light by the rays of the rising sun. 
 The sea is tranquil and the horizon clear, neverthe¬ 
 less, the enemy is looked for. There are a few white 
 and feathery clouds flickering about in the sky, and 
 
 there is an uneasy swell in the waves.At three 
 
 o’clock, out burst the norther, which, like the flaming 
 sword, guarding the issues of paradise, 
 
 “ Wav’d over by that flaming brand, the gate 
 With dreadful faces throng’d and fiery arms,” 
 
 seems to warn off all vessels from approaching these 
 iron-bound shores. Eleven days within a few hours 
 distance of the coast! 
 
 1 6th. — Five days more passed with a continua¬ 
 tion of contrary winds and constant rolling. We are 
 further from hope than we were fourteen days ago. 
 Captain, officers, sailors, all seem nearly disheart¬ 
 ened. This morning they caught the most beauti- 
 
GOLETA. 
 
 35 
 
 ful fish I ever beheld, of the dolphin species — the 
 Cleopatra of the ocean, about four feet long, appa¬ 
 rently entirely composed of gold, and studded with 
 turquoises. It changed color in dying. There is a 
 proverb, which the sailors are repeating to each other, 
 not very encouraging: “ Este es el viage del Orinoco. 
 Q,ue el que no se murio, se volvio loco.” “ This is 
 the voyage of the Orinoco, in which he who did not 
 die, became crazy.” 
 
 llth. — Spoke a goleta, which came close up by 
 our vessel, and seemed to have a miserable set on 
 board, amongst others, a worthy pair from Havana, 
 who have just come out of prison, having been ac¬ 
 cused of murdering a negro. The wind continues 
 contrary. I shall fold up this sea-scrawl, and write 
 no more till we reach Vera Cruz. 
 
LETTER THE FOURTH. 
 
 Distant View of Vera Cruz — Pilots—Boat from the City — 
 Mutual Salutes — Approach to Vera Cruz — Crowd on the 
 
 wharf—House of Don Dionisio V-o — Guard of Honor — 
 
 German Piano — Supper — Madonna — Aspect of the City — 
 Sopilotes — Deliberations — General Guadalupe Victoria — 
 Two-headed Eagle — Dilapidated Saint — Harp — Theatre — 
 Dona Inocencia Martinez — Invitation from General Santa 
 Anna. 
 
 Vera Cruz, ISth. 
 
 This morning, the sanguine hoped and the despond¬ 
 ing feared, for the wind, though inclining to la brisa, 
 seemed unlikely to prove sufficiently strong to enable 
 us to reach Vera Cruz — this being the twenty-fifth 
 day since we left Havana; a voyage that, with a 
 steamer, might be performed in three days, and with 
 a sailing vessel and a fair wind, is made in six or 
 seven. About noon, the aspect of things became 
 more favorable. The breeze grew stronger, and 
 with it our hopes. 
 
 At last appeared in view, faintly, certain spires 
 beside the low sandy land, which for some time we 
 had anxiously watched, and at length we could dis¬ 
 tinguish houses and churches, and the fort of San 
 Juan de Ulua, of warlike memory. By slow but 
 sure degrees, we neared the shore, until Vera Cruz, 
 in all its ugliness, became visible to our much-wearied 
 eyes. We had brought a pilot from Havana to guide 
 
A SALUTE. 
 
 37 
 
 us to these dangerous coasts, but though a native of 
 these parts, it seemed that a lapse of years had blunt¬ 
 ed his memory, for we had nearly run upon the 
 rocks. A gun was therefore fired, and another pilot 
 came out, who at sight of the Spanish flag waxed en¬ 
 thusiastic, and pointing out the castle to our ignorant 
 friend, exclaimed, alluding to the desperate struggle 
 made by the Spaniards to defend this their last 
 stronghold at the end of the war, “ We, although 
 but a handful of men, defended ourselves for years 
 like soldiers, and now these Frenchmen took it in 
 three days! ” and, walking about in a transport of 
 patriotic despair, he seemed to forget his actual duty 
 in the tide of remembrances which the sight of Span¬ 
 ish colors and a Spanish crew had called forth. 
 
 Anything more melancholy, delabre and forlorn, 
 than the whole appearance of things as we drew 
 near, cannot well be imagined. On one side, the 
 fort, with its black and red walls ; on the other, the 
 miserable, black-looking city, with hordes of large 
 black birds, called sopilotes, hovering over some dead 
 carcase or flying heavily along in search of carrion. 
 Still, as the goal of our voyage, even its dreary as¬ 
 pect was welcome, and the very hills of red sand by 
 which it is surrounded, and which look like the de¬ 
 serts of Arabia, appeared inviting. 
 
 A boat, full of cocked hats was now seen ap¬ 
 proaching from the city, containing the Consul in full 
 
 uniform, and other authorities. C-n having sent 
 
 for and obtained permission from the Governor, to 
 permit the Jason, contrary to established usages, to 
 anchor beneath the castle, a salute of twenty guns 
 
 4 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
38 
 
 CROWD ON THE WHARF. 
 
 was fired from our ship. Being upon deck, I was 
 nearly suffocated with smoke and powder. A salute 
 of the same number of cannon was then fired from 
 the castle, in honor of the first Spanish man-of-war 
 that has appeared in this port since the Revolution. 
 
 And now we prepared, before the sun went down, 
 to leave our watery prison ; and the captain’s boat 
 being manned, and having taken leave of the 
 
 officers, we, that is, C-n, the commander, and I, 
 
 and my French maid and her French poodle, got 
 into it. Then came a salute of twenty guns from the 
 Jason in our honor, and we rowed off amidst clouds 
 of smoke. Then the fort gave us welcome with the 
 same number of guns, and, amidst all this cannonad¬ 
 ing, we were landed at the wharf. 
 
 A singular spectacle the wharf presented. A 
 crowd, as far as the eye could reach, of all ages and 
 sexes of Vera Cruzians, (and a very curious set they 
 seemed to be,) were assembled to witness His Ex¬ 
 cellency’s arrival. Some had no pantaloons ; and 
 others, to make up for their neighbors’ deficiencies, 
 had two pair — the upper slit up the side of the leg, 
 Mexican fashion. All had large hats, with silver or 
 bead rolls, and every tin'ge of dark complexion, from 
 the pure Indian, upwards. Some dresses were 
 entirely composed of rags, clinging together by the 
 attraction of cohesion ; others had only a few holes 
 to let in the air. All were crowding, jostling, and 
 nearly throwing each other into the water, and gazing 
 with faces of intense curiosity. 
 
 But a plume of colored feathers was seen towering 
 above the copper-colored crowd, and immediate 
 
GUARD OF HONOR. 
 
 39 
 
 passage was made for an aid-de-camp from the Gov¬ 
 ernor, General Guadalupe Victoria. He was an im¬ 
 mensely tall man, in a showy uniform all covered 
 with gold, with colossal epaulettes and a towering 
 plume of rainbow-colored feathers. He brought to 
 C-n the welcome and congratulations of the Gen¬ 
 
 eral, and those Spanish offers of service and devotion 
 which sound agreeably, whatever be their true value. 
 
 We now began to move through the crowd, which 
 formed a line on either side to let us pass, and en¬ 
 tered the streets of Vera Cruz, which were crowded, 
 balconies and all, and even roofs, with curious faces. 
 The guard formed as we passed, and struck up a 
 march. The principal street is wide and clean, and 
 we reached the house of Senor V-~o, a rich mer¬ 
 
 chant, formerly consul, where we are to reside, fol¬ 
 lowed to the door by the whole population. We 
 were received with great hospitality, and found ex¬ 
 cellent rooms prepared for us. The house is im¬ 
 mensely large and airy, built in a square, as they all 
 are, but with that unfurnished, melancholy look, 
 which as yet this style of house has to me, though 
 admirably adapted to the climate. 
 
 A guard of honor, sent by General Victoria, trot¬ 
 ted into the court-yard, whose attendance C-n 
 
 declined with thanks, observing that his mission had 
 for object to terminate the coolness hitherto exist¬ 
 ing between two families of brothers; that between 
 members of the same family there was nothing to 
 fear, and all compliments were unnecessary. 
 
 I found a German piano in the drawing-room, on 
 which I was glad to put my fingers after a month’s 
 
40 
 
 ASPECT OE THE CITY. 
 
 abstinence. A number of gentlemen came in the 
 
 evening to visit C-n. We were received by this 
 
 family with so much real kindness, that we soon 
 found ourselves perfectly at home. We had a plen¬ 
 tiful supper— fish, meat, wine and chocolate, fruit 
 and sweetmeats; the cookery, Spanish Vern-Cruzi- 
 Jied. A taste of the style was enough for me, garlic 
 and oil enveloping meat, fish and fowl, with pimen¬ 
 tos and plantains, and all kinds of curious fruit, 
 which I cannot yet endure. Bed was not unwel¬ 
 come, and most comfortable beds we had, with mos¬ 
 quito curtains, and sheets and pillows all trimmed 
 with rich lace, so universal in Spanish houses, that it 
 is not, as with us, a luxury. But the mosquitoes had 
 entered in some unguarded moment, and they and 
 the heat were inimical to sleep. 
 
 19 th. — I opened my eyes this morning on the 
 painting of a very lovely Madonna, which hung, un¬ 
 valued and ill-framed, in one corner of the apartment. 
 At eight, rose and dressed, and went to breakfast. 
 Here, when there are two guests whom they wish to 
 distinguish, the gentleman is placed at the head of 
 the table, and his lady beside him. 
 
 To me nothing can exceed the sadness of the as¬ 
 pect of this city and of its environs — mountains of 
 moving sand, formed by the violence of the north 
 winds, and which, by the reflection of the sun’s rays, 
 must greatly increase the suffocating heat of the at¬ 
 mosphere. The scene may resemble the ruins of 
 Jerusalem, though without its sublimity. The houses 
 seem blackened by fire; there is not a carriage on 
 the streets — nothing but the men with the wide 
 
USEFUL SCAVENGERS. 
 
 41 
 
 trowsers slit up the side of the leg, immense hats, 
 and blankets, or sarapes, merely a closed blanket, 
 more or less fine, with a hole for the head to go 
 through ; and the women with rebosos, long colored 
 cotton scarfs or pieces of ragged stuff, thrown over 
 the head, and crossing over the left shoulder. Add 
 to this, the sopilotes cleaning the streets, disgusting, 
 but useful scavengers. These valuable birds have 
 black feathers, with gray heads, beaks and feet. 
 They fly in troops, and at night perch upon the trees, 
 They are not republican, nor do they appear inclined 
 to declare their independence, having kings, to whom 
 it is said they pay so much respect, that if one of the 
 royal species arrives at the same time with a plebeian 
 sopilote, in sight of a dead body, the latter humbly 
 waits till the sovereign has devoured his share, before 
 he ventures to approach. 
 
 A few ladies in black gowns and mantillas called 
 this morning, and various men. We find the weather 
 sultry. In summer, with greater heat and the addi¬ 
 tion of the vomiio, it must be a chosen city ! The 
 principal street, where we live, is very long and wide, 
 and seems to have many good houses in it. Nearly 
 opposite is one which seems particularly well kept 
 and handsome, and where we saw beautiful flowers 
 as we passed. I find it belongs to an English mer¬ 
 chant. 
 
 There is much deliberation as to the mode in 
 which we are to travel to Mexico. Some propose a 
 coach, others a litera ; others advise us to take the 
 diligence. While in this indecision,' we had a 
 visit this morning from a remarkable-looking charac- 
 
42 
 
 GENERAL GUADALUPE VICTORIA. 
 
 ter, Don Miguel S-, agent for the diligence office 
 
 in Mexico, a tall, dark, energetic-looking person. 
 He recommends the diligence, and offers, by accom¬ 
 panying us, to ensure our safety from accidents. He 
 appears right. The diligence goes in four days, if it 
 does not break down. The coach takes any time 
 we choose over that; the literas nine or ten days, 
 going slowly on mules with a sedan-chair motion. 
 The diligence has food and beds provided for it at 
 the inns — the others nothing. I am in favor of the 
 diligence. 
 
 The couple from Havana, whom we passed in the 
 goleta, have very coolly requested permission to 
 accompany us to Mexico, “ under the protection of 
 the Emhajador de EspanaE We should set off in 
 select company. 
 
 C-n called this morning on General Victoria. 
 
 Found his Excellency in a large hall without furniture 
 or ornament of any sort, without even chairs, and 
 altogether in a style of more than republican simpli¬ 
 city. He has just returned the visit, accompanied by 
 his colossal aid-de-camp. 
 
 General Guadalupe Victoria is perhaps the last 
 man in a crowd whom one would fix upon as being 
 the owner of the above high-sounding cognomen, 
 which in fact is not his original but his assumed 
 name, Guadalupe being adopted by him in honor of 
 the renowned image of the virgin of that name, and 
 Victoria with less humility, to commemorate his suc¬ 
 cess in battle, tie is an honest, plain, down-looking 
 citizen, lame and tall, somewhat at a loss for conver¬ 
 sation, apparently, amiable and good-natured, but 
 
ENVIRONS OF THE CITY. 
 
 43 
 
 certainly neither courtier nor orator ; a man of unde¬ 
 niable bravery, capable of supporting almost incredi¬ 
 ble hardships, humane, and who has always proved 
 himself a sincere lover of what he considered liberty, 
 without ever having been actuated by ambitious or 
 interested motives. 
 
 It is said that his defects were indolence, want of 
 resolution, and too much reliance on his own knowl¬ 
 edge. He is the only Mexican president who finish¬ 
 ed as chief magistrate, the term prescribed by the 
 laws. It is alleged, in proof of his simplicity, though 
 I think it is too absurd to be true, that having 
 received a dispatch with the two-headed eagle on 
 Ihe seal, he remarked to the astonished envoy who 
 delivered it — “ Our arms are very much alike, only 
 I see that his majesty’s eagles have two heads. I 
 have heard that some of that species exist here, in 
 tierra caliente, and shall have one sent for.” 
 
 The General is not married, but appears rather 
 desirous of entering the united state. He strongly 
 recommends us to avoid broken bones by going in 
 literas, at least as far as Jalapa. Having stumbled 
 about for some time in search of his cocked hat, it 
 was handed to him by his aid-de-camp, and he took 
 leave. 
 
 We walked out in the evening to take a look of 
 
 the environs, with Senor V-o, the commander of 
 
 the Jason, and several young ladies of the house. 
 We walked in the direction of an old church, where 
 it is or was the custom for young ladies desirous of 
 being married to throw a stone at the saint, their 
 fortune depending upon the stone’s hitting him, so 
 
44 
 
 CITY OF VERA CRUZ. 
 
 that he is in a lapidated and dilapidated condition. 
 Such environs! the surrounding houses black with 
 smoke of powder or with tire — a view of bare red 
 sand-hills all round — not a tree, or shrub, or flower, 
 or bird, except the horrid black sopilote, or police 
 officer. All looks as if the prophet Jeremiah had 
 passed through the city denouncing wo to the dwell¬ 
 ers thereof. Such a melancholy, wholly deserted- 
 looking burial ground as we saw ! 
 
 War and revolutions have no doubt done their 
 work, yet I find difficulty in believing those who 
 speak of Vera Cruz as having been a gay and delight¬ 
 ful residence in former days, though even now, 
 those who have resided here for any length of time, 
 even foreigners, almost invariably become attached 
 to it; and as for those born here, they are the truest 
 of patriots, holding up Vera Cruz as superior to all 
 other parts of the world. 
 
 The city was founded by the Viceroy, Count de 
 Monterey, at the end of the seventeenth century, 
 and ought not to be confounded, as it sometimes is, 
 with either of the two colonies founded by the first 
 Spaniards. Built in front of the island of San Juan 
 de Ulua, it has one interesting recollection attached 
 to it, since on these same arid shores, Cortes disem¬ 
 barked more than three centuries ago. Unlike the 
 green and fertile coast which gladdened the eyes of 
 Columbus, the Spanish conqueror beheld a bleak and 
 burning desert, whose cheerless aspect might well 
 have deterred a feebler mind from going further in 
 search of the paradise that existed behind. 
 
 We returned to the house, and heard some ladies 
 
THEATRE. 
 
 45 
 
 play upon a harp, so called, a small, light instrument 
 in that form, but without pedals, so light, that they 
 can lift it with one hand ; and yet the music they 
 bring from it is surprising; one air after another, a 
 little monotonously, but with great ease and a certain 
 execution, and with the additional merit of being 
 self-taught. 
 
 I imagine that there must be a great deal of musical 
 taste thrown away here. There are pianos in almost 
 every house, and one lady, who came to see me to¬ 
 day, and whose mother was English, had been ex¬ 
 tremely well taught, and played with great taste. 
 They attempted dancing, but having no masters, can 
 only learn by what they hear. On the balcony, this 
 evening, it was delightful, and the moon is a universal 
 beautifier. 
 
 21 st. — We walked about the city yesterday, and 
 returned visits. The streets are clean, and some few 
 churches tolerably handsome. 
 
 The Comicos came in the morning to offer us the 
 centre box in the theatre, it being the benefit night 
 of Doha Inocencia Martinez from Madrid, a favorite 
 of the public, and, in fact, a pretty woman, and good 
 comic actress. The theatre is small, and they say 
 generally deserted, but last night it was crowded. 
 The drop-scene represents the fine arts, who are so 
 fat, that their condition here must be flourishing. We 
 were, however, agreeably disappointed in the per¬ 
 formance, which was the “ Segunda Dama Duende,” 
 nearly a translation from the <£ Domino Noir,” and 
 very amusing ; full of excellent coups-de-theatre. 
 Doha Inocencia in her various characters, as domino, 
 
46 
 
 INVITATION FROM SANTA ANNA. 
 
 servant-girl, abbess, &.C., was very handsome, and 
 acted with great spirit. Moreover, she and her sister, 
 with two Spaniards, danced the Jota Aragonesa in 
 perfection, so that we spent a pleasant evening, upon 
 the whole, within the precincts of the city of the 
 True Cross. 
 
 To-morrow is the day fixed for our departure, and 
 we shall not be sorry to leave this place, although this 
 house is excellent, a whole suite of rooms given to 
 us, and neither ceremony nor gene of any sort. The 
 weather is certainly beautiful. The heat may be a 
 little oppressive in the middle of the day, but the 
 evenings are cool and delightful. 
 
 We had a visit yesterday, from the English and 
 
 French consuls. M. de-prophecies broken arms 
 
 and dislodged teeth, if we persist in our plan of taking 
 the diligence, but all things balanced, we think it 
 preferable to every other conveyance. General Vic¬ 
 toria returned to see us this morning, and was very 
 civil and amiable, offering very cordially every service 
 and assistance in his power. We are to rise to-mor¬ 
 row at two, being invited to breakfast with General 
 Santa Anna, at his country seat Manga de Clavo, a 
 few leagues from this. 
 
 We have been sitting on the balcony till very late, 
 enjoying the moonlight and a refreshing breeze from 
 the sea, and as we rise before day-break, our rest will 
 be but short. 
 
LETTER THE FIFTH. 
 
 Departure from Vera Cruz — Sand-hills — Oriental scene — Man¬ 
 ga de Clavo — General Santa Anna — Breakfast — Escort and 
 diligence — Santa Fe — Puente Nacional — Bridge sketched 
 by Mrs. Ward — Country in December — Don Miguel — First 
 impressions — Fruit — Plan del Rio — German musicians — 
 Sleeping Captain — Approach to Jalapa — Appearance of the 
 City — Cofre de Perote — Flowers — House and rock — Last 
 view of Jalapa — Change of scenery — San Miguel de los Sol- 
 dados — Perote — Striking scene before day-break — Non-arri¬ 
 val of escort—Yankee coachman — Dispute — Departure — 
 Company of lancers — Alcalde — Breakfast at La ventilla — 
 Pulque — Double escort — Crosses — Brigand-looking tavern- 
 keeper— Ojo de Agua — Arrival at Puebla — Dress of the 
 peasants —- Christmas eve — Inn — “ Nacimiento .” 
 
 Jalapa, 23d December. 
 
 Yesterday morning, at two o’clock, we rose by 
 candle light, with the pleasant prospect of leaving 
 Vera Cruz and of seeing Santa Anna. Two boxes, 
 called carriages, drawn by mules, were at the door, 
 
 to convey us to Manga de Clavo. Senor V-o, 
 
 C-n, the commander of the Jason and I being 
 
 encased in them, we set off half asleep. By the faint 
 light, we could just distinguish as we passed the gates, 
 and the carriages ploughed their way along, nothing 
 but sand — sand — as far as the eye could reach ; a 
 few leagues of Arabian desert. 
 
 At length we began to see symptoms of vegeta¬ 
 tion ; occasional palm-trees and flowers, and by the 
 
48 
 
 SANTA ANNA. 
 
 time we had reached a pretty Indian village, where 
 we stopped to change mules, the light had broke in, 
 and we seemed to have been transported, as if by 
 enchantment, from a desert to a garden. It was 
 altogether a picturesque and striking scene; the 
 huts composed of bamboo, and thatched with palm- 
 leaves, the Indian women with their long black hair 
 standing at the doors with their half-naked children, 
 the mules rolling themselves on the ground, according 
 to their favorite fashion, snow-white goats browzing 
 amongst the palm-trees, and the air so soft and balmy, 
 the first fresh breath of morning; the dew-drops still 
 glittering on the broad leaves of the banana and palm, 
 and all around so silent, cool and still. 
 
 The huts, though poor, were clean ; no windows, 
 but a certain subdued light makes its way through 
 the leafy canes. We procured some tumblers of new 
 milk, and having changed mules, pursued our journey, 
 now no longer through hills of sand, but across the 
 country, through a wilderness of trees and flowers, 
 the glowing productions of tierra calicnte. We ar¬ 
 rived about five at Manga de Clavo, after passing 
 through leagues of natural garden, the property of 
 Santa Anna. 
 
 The house is pretty, slight-looking, and kept in 
 nice order. We were received by an aid-de-camp 
 in uniform, and by several officers, and conducted to 
 a large, cool, agreeable apartment, with little furniture, 
 into which shortly entered the Senora de Santa Anna, 
 tall, thin, and at that early hour of the morning, 
 dressed to receive us in clear white muslin, with white 
 satin shoes, and with very splendid diamond ear-rimrs, 
 
SANTA ANNA. 
 
 49 
 
 brooch and rings. She was very polite, and intro¬ 
 duced her daughter Guadalupe, a miniature of her 
 mamma, in features and costume. 
 
 In a little while entered General Santa Anna him¬ 
 self ; a gentlemanly, good-looking, quietly dressed, 
 rather melancholy-looking person, with one leg, appa¬ 
 rently somewhat of an invalid, and to us the most 
 interesting person in the group. He has a sallow 
 complexion, fine dark eyes, soft and penetrating, and 
 an interesting expression of face. Knowing nothing 
 of his past history, one would have said a philosopher, 
 living in dignified retirement, one who had tried the 
 w r orld, and found that all was vanity, one who had 
 suffered ingratitude, and who, if he were ever per¬ 
 suaded to emerge from his retreat, would only do so, 
 Cincinnatus-like, to benefit his country. It is strange, 
 how frequently this expression of philosophic resigna¬ 
 tion, of placid sadness, is to be remarked on the coun¬ 
 tenances of the deepest, most ambitious, and most 
 
 designing men. C--n gave him a letter from the 
 
 Queen, written under the supposition of his being still 
 President, with which he seemed much pleased, but 
 merely made the innocent observation, “ How very 
 well the Queen writes ! ” 
 
 It was only now and then, that the expression of 
 his eye was startling, especially when he spoke of his 
 leg, which is cut off below the knee. He speaks of 
 it frequently, like Sir John Ramorny of his bloody 
 hand, and when he gives an account of his wound, 
 and alludes to the French on that day, his counte¬ 
 nance assumes that air of bitterness which Ramorny’s 
 
 5 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
50 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 may have exhibited when speaking of “ Harry the 
 Smith.” 
 
 Otherwise, he made himself very agreeable, spoke 
 a great deal of the United States, and of the persons 
 he had known there, and in his manners was quiet 
 and gentlemanlike, and altogether a more polished 
 hero than I had expected to see. To judge from the 
 past, he will not long remain in his present state of 
 inaction, besides having within him, according to Za¬ 
 vala, “ a principle of action forever impelling him 
 forward.” 
 
 En attendant , breakfast was announced. The 
 
 Senora de Santa Anna led me in. C-n was 
 
 placed at the head of the table, I on his right, Santa 
 Anna opposite, the Senora on my right. The break¬ 
 fast was very handsome, consisting of innumerable 
 Spanish dishes, meat and vegetables, fish and fowl, 
 fruits and sweetmeats, all served in white and gold 
 French porcelain, with coffee, wines, &c. After 
 breakfast, the Senora having despatched an officer for 
 her cigar-case, which was gold, with a diamond latch, 
 offered me a cigar, which I having declined, she lighted 
 her own, a little paper “ cigarito,” and the gentle¬ 
 men followed her good example. 
 
 We then proceeded to look at the out-houses and 
 offices; at the General’s favorite war-horse, an old 
 white charger, probably a sincerer philosopher than 
 his master ; at several game-cocks, kept with especial 
 care, cock-fighting being a favorite recreation of Santa 
 Anna’s ; and at his litera which is handsome and 
 comfortable. There are no gardens, but as he ob¬ 
 served, the whole country, which for twelve leagues 
 
ESCORT AND DILIGENCE. 
 
 51 
 
 square belongs to him, is a garden. The appearance 
 of the family says little for the healthiness of the 
 locale ; and indeed its beauty and fertility will not 
 compensate for its insalubrity. 
 
 As we had but a few hours to spare, the General 
 ordered round two carriages, both very handsome, and 
 made in the United States, one of which conveyed him 
 
 and C--n, the Sehora and me. In the other were 
 
 the little girl and the officers, in which order we pro¬ 
 ceeded across the country to the high road, where the 
 diligence and servants, with our guide, Don Miguel 
 S-, were to overtake us. The diligence not hav¬ 
 
 ing arrived, we got down and sat on a stone bench, 
 in front of an Indian cottage, where we talked, while 
 the young lady amused herself by eating apples, and 
 C——n and the General remained moralizing in the 
 carriage. 
 
 Shortly after, and just as the sun was beginning to 
 give us a specimen of his power, our lumbering escort 
 of Mexican soldiers galloped up, (orders having been 
 given by the government that a fresh escort shall be 
 stationed every six leagues,) and announced the ap¬ 
 proach of the diligence. We were agreeably disap¬ 
 pointed by the arrival of a handsome new coach, 
 made in the United States, drawn by ten good-look¬ 
 ing mules, and driven by a smart Yankee coachman. 
 Our party consisted of ourselves, Don Miguel, the 
 captain of the Jason and his first lieutenant, who ac¬ 
 company us to Mexico. The day was delightful, and 
 every one apparently in good humor. We took leave 
 of General Santa Anna, his lady and daughter, also 
 of our hospitable entertainer, Sehor V——o ; got 
 
52 
 
 PUENTE NACIONAL. 
 
 into the diligence — doors shut — all right — lash up 
 the mules, and now for Mexico! 
 
 Gradually, as in Dante’s Commedia, after leaving 
 Purgatory, typified by Vera Cruz, we seemed to draw 
 nearer to Paradise. The road is difficult, as the ap¬ 
 proach to Paradise ought to be, and the extraordi¬ 
 nary jolts were sufficient to prevent us from being too 
 much enraptured by the scenery, which increased in 
 beauty as we advanced. At Santa Fe and Sopilote 
 we changed horses, and at Tolome, one of the sites 
 of the civil war, came to the end of Santa Anna’s 
 twelve leagues of property. 
 
 We arrived at Puente Nacional, formerly Puente 
 del Rey, celebrated as the scene of many an engage¬ 
 ment during the Revolution, and by occupying which, 
 Victoria frequently prevented the passage of the 
 Spanish troops, and that of the convoys of silver to 
 the port. Here we stopped a short time to admire 
 the beautiful bridge thrown over the river Antigua, 
 with its stone arches, which brought Mrs. Ward’s 
 sketch to my recollection, though it is very long since 
 I saw the book. We were accompanied by the com¬ 
 mander of the fort. It is now a peaceful-looking 
 scene. We walked to the bridge, pulled branches of 
 large white flowers, admired the rapid river dashing 
 over the rocks, and the fine, bold scenery that sur¬ 
 rounds it. The village is a mere collection of huts, 
 with some fine trees. 
 
 It was difficult to believe, as we journeyed on, that 
 we were now in the midst of December. The air 
 was soft and balmy. The heat, without being op¬ 
 pressive, that of a July day in England. The road 
 
DON MIGUEL. 
 
 53 
 
 lay through a succession of woody country ; trees 
 covered with every variety of blossom, and loaded 
 with the most delicious tropical fruits; flowers of 
 every color filling the air with fragrance, and the 
 most fantastical profusion of parasitical plants inter¬ 
 twining the branches of the trees, and flinging their 
 bright blossoms over every bough. Palms, cocoas, 
 oranges, lemons, succeeded one another, and at one 
 turn of the road, down in a lovely green valley, we 
 caught a glimpse of an Indian woman, with her long 
 hair, resting under the shade of a lofty tree, beside a 
 running stream — an Oriental picture. Had it not 
 been for the dust and the jolting, nothing could have 
 been more delightful. As for Don Miguel, with his 
 head out of the window, now desiring the coachman 
 to go more quietly, now warning us to prepare for a 
 jolt, now pointing out everything worth looking at, 
 and making light of all difficulties, he was the very 
 best conductor of a journey I ever met with. His 
 hat of itself was a curiosity to us; a white beaver 
 with immense brim, lined with thick silver tissue, 
 with two large silver rolls and tassels round it. 
 
 One circumstance must be observed by all who 
 travel in Mexican territory. There is not one human 
 being or passing object to be seen that is not in itself 
 a picture, or which would not form a good subject 
 for the pencil. The Indian women, with their plaited 
 hair, and little children slung to their backs, their 
 large straw hats, and petticoats of two colors — the 
 long strings of arrieros with their loaded mules, 
 and swarthy, wild-looking faces — the chance horse¬ 
 man who passes with his sarape of many colors, his 
 
54 
 
 PLAN DEL P t IO. 
 
 high ornamented saddle, Mexican hat, silver stirrups 
 and leather boots — all is picturesque. Salvator Ro¬ 
 sa and Hogarth might have travelled here to advan¬ 
 tage, hand-in-hand; Salvator for the sublime, and 
 Hogarth taking him up where the sublime became 
 the ridiculous. 
 
 At La Calera, we had a distant view of the sea. 
 Occasionally we stopped to buy oranges fresh from 
 the trees, pine-apples and granaditas, which are like 
 Brobdinagian gooseberries, the pulp enclosed in a 
 very thick, yellow or green rind, and very refreshing. 
 
 It was about seven in the evening, when very 
 dusty, rather tired, but very much enchanted with all 
 we had seen, we arrived at Plan del Rio. Here the 
 diligence passengers generally stop for the night, 
 that is, sleep a few hours on a hard bed, and rise at 
 midnight to go on to Jalapa. But to this arrange¬ 
 ment, I for one, made vociferous objections, and 
 strongly insisted upon the propriety and feasibility of 
 sleeping at Jalapa that night. Don Miguel, the most 
 obsequious of Dons, declared it should be exactly as 
 the Senora ordered. 
 
 Accordingly it was agreed, that we should wait 
 for the moon, and then pursue our journey, and 
 meanwhile we walked out to a short distance, to see 
 the bridge, the river, and the wood. The bridge 
 consists of a single large arch thrown over the river, 
 and communicating with a great high road, formerly 
 paved, but now going to ruin. 
 
 We returned to the inn, a long row of small rooms, 
 built of brick and prettily situated, not far from the 
 water. Here we had the luxury of water and towels, 
 
SUPPER. 
 
 55 
 
 which enabled us to get rid of a certain portion of 
 dust before we went to supper. 
 
 The diligence from Jalapa had just deposited at 
 the inn, a German with his wife and child, he bear¬ 
 ing so decidedly the stamp of a German musician, 
 that we at once guessed his calling. They are from 
 Mexico, from whence the fine arts seem to be taking 
 their flight, and gave a most woful account of the 
 road between this and Jalapa. 
 
 We had a very tolerable supper ; soup, fish, fowls, 
 steak and frijoles, all well seasoned with garlic and 
 oil. The jolting had given me too bad a headache 
 to care for more than coffee. We were strongly 
 advised to remain the night there, but lazy people 
 know too well what it is to rise in the middle of the 
 night, especially when they are much fatigued ; and 
 when the moon rose, we packed ourselves once more 
 into the diligence, sufficiently refreshed to encoun¬ 
 ter new fatigues. The moon was very bright, and 
 most of the party prepared themselves for sleep with 
 cigars in their mouths ; not a very easy matter, for 
 the roads were infamous, a succession of holes and 
 rocks. As we were gradually ascending, the weather 
 became cooler, and from cool began to grow cold, 
 forcing us to look out for cloaks and shawls. We 
 could now discern some change in the vegetation, 
 or rather a mingling of the trees of a colder climate 
 with those of the tropics, especially the Mexican 
 oak, which begins to flourish here. Fortunately, at 
 one part of the road, the moon enabled us to see the 
 captain of the escort lying on the ground fast asleep, 
 his horse standing quietly beside him, he having fallen 
 
56 
 
 ARRIVAL AT JALAPA. 
 
 off while asleep, and continued his nap. The sol¬ 
 diers shook him up with some difficulty. 
 
 At Corral ft'also we changed mules, and from the 
 badness of the road, continued to go slowly. 
 
 The cold increased, and at last by the moonlight, 
 we had a distinct view of the Peak of Orizava, with 
 his white night-cap on, (excuse the simile, suggested 
 by extreme sleepiness,) the very sight enough to 
 make one shiver. 
 
 As we approached Jalapa, the scene was pictur¬ 
 esque. The escort had put on their sarapes, and, 
 with their high helmets and feathers, went galloping 
 along and dashing amongst the trees and shrubs. 
 Orizava and the Cofre de Perote shone white in the 
 distance, while a delicious smell of flowers, particularly 
 of roses, gave token of the land through which we 
 were passing. 
 
 It was nearly two in the morning when we reached 
 Jalapa, tired to death, and shivering with cold. 
 Greatly we rejoiced as we rattled through its moun¬ 
 tainous streets, and still more when we found our¬ 
 selves in a nice clean inn, with brick floors and 
 decent small beds, and everything prepared for us. 
 The sight of a fire would have been too much luxury ; 
 however they gave us some hot tea, and very shortly 
 after, I at least can answer for myself, that I was in 
 bed, and enjoying the most delightful sleep that I 
 have had since I left New York. 
 
 This morning, the diligence being at our disposal, 
 we did not rise by break of day, but on the contrary 
 continued to sleep till eight o’clock. I was waited 
 on by such a nice, civil, clean little old woman, that 
 
C0FRE DE PEROTE. 
 
 57 
 
 I should like to carry her off with me. Meanwhile, 
 various authorities of the town were stationed at the 
 
 door to give C-n welcome when he should 
 
 appear. 
 
 Our breakfast was delicious. Such fresh eggs, 
 and fresh butter, and good coffee and well-fried 
 chickens; moreover such good bread and peculiarly 
 excellent water, that we fell very much in love with 
 Jalapa. 
 
 After breakfast we walked out, accompanied by 
 various gentlemen of the place. The town consists 
 of little more than a few steep streets, very old, with 
 some large and excellent houses, the best as usual 
 belonging to English merchants, and many to those 
 of Vera Cruz, who come to live in or near Jalapa, 
 during the reign of the “ Vomito There are some 
 old churches, a very old convent of Franciscan 
 monks, and a well-supplied market-place. Every¬ 
 where there are flowers — roses creeping over the 
 old walls, Indian girls making green garlands for the 
 virgin and saints, flowers in the shops, flowers at the 
 windows, but above all, everywhere one of the most 
 splendid mountain views in the world. 
 
 The Cofre de Perote, with its dark pine forests and 
 gigantic chest, (a rock of porphyry which takes that 
 form,) and the still loftier snow-white peak of Ori- 
 zava, tower above all the others, seeming like the 
 colossal guardians of the land. The intervening 
 mountains, the dark cliffs and fertile plains, the thick 
 woods of lofty trees clothing the hills and the valleys ; 
 a glimpse of the distant ocean ; the surrounding 
 lanes shaded by fruit trees ; aloes, bananas, chiri- 
 
53 
 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 moyas, mingled with the green liquidambar, the 
 flowering myrtle, and hundreds of plants and shrubs 
 and flowers of every color and of delicious fragrance, 
 all combine to form one of the most varied and 
 beautiful scenes that the eye can behold. 
 
 Then Jalapa itself, so old and gray and rose- 
 becovered, with a sound of music issuing from every 
 open door and window, and its soft and agreeable 
 temperature, presents, even in a few hours, a series of 
 agreeable impressions not easily effaced. 
 
 But we are now returned to our inn, for it is 
 near noon, and the veil of clouds, that earlier in the 
 morning enveloped Orizava, has passed away, leaving 
 its white summit environed by a flood of light. I 
 shall probably have no opportunity of writing until 
 we reach Puebla. 
 
 Puebla, 24th. 
 
 Yesterday morning we took leave of the Jahpenos, 
 and once more found ourselves en route. Such a 
 view of the mountains as we ascended the steep 
 road ! and such flowers and blossoming trees on all 
 sides ! Large scarlet blossoms, and hanging purple 
 and white flowers, and trees covered with fragrant 
 bell-shaped flowers like lilies, which the people here 
 call the floripundio, together with a profusion of 
 double pink roses that made the air fragrant as we 
 passed. And here and there a church, a ruined 
 convent or a white Hacienda. We had the advan¬ 
 tage of clear weather not always to be found at 
 Jalapa, especially when the north wind, blowing at 
 Vera Cruz, covers this city and its environs with a 
 dense foar. 
 
 O 
 
CHANGE OF SCENERY. 
 
 59 
 
 We stopped at a small village to change horses, 
 (for on leaving Jalapa, our mules were exchanged 
 for eight strong white horses,) and here Don Miguel 
 made us enter a very pretty house belonging to some 
 female friends of his, one of whom was very hand¬ 
 some, with a tasteful white turban. The curiosity of 
 this place is a rock behind the house, covered with 
 roses, clove-carnations, and every variety of bright 
 flower-tree, together with oranges, lemons, limes, and 
 cedrats, all growing out of the rock. The ladies 
 were very civil, though I dare say surprised at our 
 admiration of their December flowers, and gave us 
 orangeade and cake, with large cedrats and oranges 
 from the trees; but above all, the most delicious bou¬ 
 quet of roses and carnations; so that, together with 
 the unknown scarlet and purple blossoms which the 
 captain of the escort had gathered for me, the dili¬ 
 gence inside looked like an arbor. 
 
 We continued our journey, the road ascending to¬ 
 wards the table-land, and at one striking point of 
 view, we got out and looked back upon Jalapa, and 
 round upon a panorama of mountains. Gradually 
 the vegetation changed. Fine, fresh-looking Euro¬ 
 pean herbage and trees succeeded the less hardy 
 though more brilliant trees and flowers of the tropics. 
 The banana and chirimoya gave place to the strong 
 oak, and higher still, these were interspersed with the 
 dark green of the pine. 
 
 At San Miguel de los Soldados we stopped to take 
 some refreshment. The country became gradually 
 more bleak, and before arriving at the village of Las 
 Vigas, nearly all trees had disappeared but the hardy 
 
60 
 
 PEROTE. 
 
 fir, which flourishes amongst the rocks. The ground 
 for about two leagues was covered with lava, and 
 great masses of black calcined rock, so that we 
 seemed to be passing over the crater of a volcano. 
 This part of the country is deservedly called the Mai 
 Pais, and the occasional crosses with their faded gar¬ 
 lands, that gleam in these bleak, volcanic regions, 
 give token that it may have yet other titles to the 
 name of “ the Evil Land.” The roses and carna¬ 
 tions that I had brought from Jalapa were still un¬ 
 withered, so that in a few hours we had passed 
 through the whole scale of vegetation. 
 
 The road became steep and dreary, and after pass¬ 
 ing Cruz Blanca, excepting occasional corn-fields 
 and sombre pine forests, the scene had no objects of 
 interest sufficient to enable us to keep our eyes open. 
 The sun was set — it grew dusk, and by the time 
 we reached Perote, where we were to pass the night, 
 most of us had fallen into an uncomfortable sleep, 
 very cold and quite stupefied, and too sleepy to be 
 hungry, in spite of finding a large supper prepared 
 for us. 
 
 The inn was dirty, very unlike that at Jalapa, the 
 beds miserable, and we were quite ready to get up by 
 the light of an unhappy specimen of tallow which 
 the landlord brought to our doors at two in the morn¬ 
 ing. 
 
 There are some scenes which can never be effaced 
 from our memory, and such a one was that which 
 took place this morning at Perote at two o’clock, the 
 moon and the stars shining bright and cold. 
 
 Being dressed, I went into the kitchen, where 
 
A DILEMMA. 
 
 61 
 
 C-n, the officers of the Jason, Don Miguel, and 
 
 the Mexican captain of the last night’s escort were 
 assembled by the light of one melancholy sloping 
 candle, together with a suspicious-looking landlord, 
 and a few sleepy Indian women with bare feet, tan¬ 
 gled hair, copper faces and rebosos. They made us 
 some chocolate with goat’s milk, horrid in general, 
 and rancid in particular. 
 
 It appeared that all parties were at a stand-still, for 
 by some mistake in the orders, the new escort had 
 not arrived, and the escort of the preceding night 
 could go no further. Don Miguel, with his swarthy 
 face and great sarape, was stalking about, rather out 
 of humor, while the captain was regretting, in very po¬ 
 lite tones, with his calm, Arab-looking, impassive face, 
 that his escort could proceed no further. He seemed 
 to think it extremely probable that we should be 
 robbed, believed, indeed had just heard it asserted, 
 that a party of ladrones were looking out for el Senor 
 Ministro, regretted that he could not assist us, though 
 quite at our service, and recommended us to wait 
 until the next escort should arrive. 
 
 To this advice our conductor would by no means 
 listen. He was piqued that any detention should 
 occur, and yet aware that it was unsafe to go on. 
 He had promised to convey us safely, and in four 
 days to Mexico, and it was necessary to keep his 
 word. Some one proposed that two of the men 
 should accompany the diligence upon mules, as 
 probably a couple of these animals might be procured. 
 The captain observed, that though entirely at our 
 disposal, two men could be of no manner of use, as 
 
 6 
 
 VOL, I. 
 
62 
 
 THE DILIGENCE. 
 
 in case of attack, resistance, except with a large 
 escort, was worse than useless. Nevertheless it was 
 remarked by some ingenious person, that the robbers 
 seeing two, might imagine that there were more 
 behind. In short there w'ere various opinions. One 
 proposed that they should go on the coach, another 
 that they should go in it. Here I ventured to inter¬ 
 pose, begging that they might ride on mules or go 
 outside, but by no means within. As usual, it was 
 as the Sehora pleased. 
 
 At length we all collected before the door of the 
 inn, and a queer group we must have made by the 
 light of the moon, and a nice caricature I thought to 
 
 myself, our friend Mr. G-would have made of 
 
 us, had he been there. 
 
 The diligence, with eight white horses and a 
 Yankee coachman, originally no doubt called Brown, 
 but now answering to the mellifluous appellation of 
 
 Bruno ; A-, with her French cap, and loaded 
 
 with sundry mysterious-looking baskets ; I, with 
 
 cloak and bonnet; C-n with Greek cap, cloak 
 
 and cigar ; the captain of the Jason also with cloak 
 and cigar, and very cold ; the lieutenant in his navy 
 uniform, taking it coolly ; Don Miguel, with his 
 great sarape and silver hat—(six people belonging 
 to five different countries) ; the Mexican captain, 
 with his pale impassive face and moustaches, envel¬ 
 oped in a very handsome sarape, and surrounded by 
 the sleepy escort of the preceding night; dirty-look- 
 ing soldiers lounging on the ground, wrapped in their 
 blankets ; the Indian women and the host of the 
 inn, and a bright moon and starry sky lighting up 
 
SERIOUS DISPUTES. 
 
 63 
 
 the whole — the figures in the foreground, and the 
 lofty snow-clad mountains, and the dismal old town 
 of Perote itself, that looked gray and sulky at being 
 disturbed so early, with its old castle of San Carlos 
 and cold, sterile plains. 
 
 Meanwhile, two soldiers with cloaks and arms, 
 had climbed up outside of the coach. The captain 
 remarked that they could not sit there. Bruno made 
 some reply, upon which the captain very coolly drew 
 his sword, and was about to put a very decided 
 impediment to our journey by stabbing the coach¬ 
 man, when Don Miguel, his eyes and cigar all shin¬ 
 ing angrily, rushed in between them. 
 
 High words ensued between him and the captain, 
 and the extreme coolness and precision with which 
 the latter spoke, was very amusing. It was as if he 
 were rehearsing a speech from a play. “ I always 
 speak frankly,” said Don Miguel, in an angry tone. 
 “ And I,” said the captain, in a polite, measured 
 voice, “ am also accustomed to speak my mind with 
 extreme frankness. I regret, however, that I did not 
 at the moment perceive the Sehora at the door, 
 otherwise,” &c. 
 
 At length the two little men, who with their arms 
 and sarapes looked like bundles of ammunition, and 
 who half asleep had been by some zealous person, 
 probably by our friend Bruno, tumbled upon the 
 diligence like packages, were now rolled off it, and 
 finally tumbled upon mules, and we got into the 
 coach. Don Miguel, with his head out of the win¬ 
 dow, and not very easy in his mind, called up the 
 two bundles and gave them directions as to their 
 
64 
 
 TEPEYAGUALCO. 
 
 line of conduct in a stage whisper, and they trotted 
 oft’, primed with valor, while we very cold and (I 
 answer for myself) rather frightened, proceeded on 
 our way. The earliness of the hour was probably 
 our salvation, as we started two hours before the 
 usual time, and thus gained a march upon the gen¬ 
 tlemen of the road. 
 
 VVe were not sorry, however, when, at our first 
 halting-place, and whilst we were changing horses, 
 we descried a company of lancers at full gallop, with 
 a very good-looking officer at their head, coming 
 along the road, though when I first heard the sound 
 of horses’ hoofs clattering along, and by the faint light, 
 discerned the horsemen, enveloped as they were in a 
 cloud of dust, I felt sure that they were a party of 
 robbers. The captain made many apologies for the 
 delay, and proceeded to inform us that the alcaldes 
 of Tepeyagualco, La Ventilla, and of some other vil¬ 
 lages, whose names I forget, had for twenty days 
 prepared a breakfast in expectation of his Excellen¬ 
 cy’s arrival; — whether twenty breakfasts, or the 
 same one cold, or rechauffe, we may never know. 
 
 The captain had a very handsome horse, which 
 he caused to caracolcar by the side of the diligence, 
 and put at my disposal with a low bow, every time I 
 looked at it. He discoursed with C-n of rob¬ 
 
 bers and wars, and of the different sites which these 
 gentry most affected, and told him how his first wife 
 had been shot by following him in some engage¬ 
 ment, yet how his second wife invariably followed him 
 also. 
 
 Arrived at Tepeyagualco, after having passed over 
 
LA VENTILLA. 
 
 65 
 
 a succession of sterile plains covered with scanty 
 pasture, an alcalde advanced to meet the diligence, 
 
 and hospitably made C-n an offer of the before- 
 
 mentioned twenty days’ entertainment, which he with 
 many thanks declined. Who ate that breakfast, is 
 buried in the past. Whether the alcalde was glad 
 or sorry, did not appear. He vanished with a pro¬ 
 fusion of bows, and was followed by a large, good- 
 looking Indian woman, who stood behind him while 
 he made his discourse. Perhaps they eat together 
 the long-prepared feast; which was at least one of 
 the many tributes paid to the arrival of the first mes¬ 
 senger of peace from the mother country. 
 
 At La Ventilla, however, we descended with a 
 good appetite, and found several authorities waiting 
 to give C-n a welcome. Here they gave us de¬ 
 
 licious chirimoyas, a natural custard, which we liked 
 even upon a first trial, also granaditas, bananas, sa- 
 potes, &c. Here also I first tasted pulque; and on 
 a first impression it appears to me, that as nectar 
 was the drink in Olympus, we may fairly conjecture 
 that Pluto cultivated the maguey in his dominions. 
 The taste and smell combined took me so completely 
 by surprise, that I am afraid my look of horror must 
 have given mortal offence to the worthy alcalde, who 
 considers it the most delicious beverage in the world ; 
 and, in fact, it is said, that when one gets over the 
 first shock, it is very agreeable. The difficulty must 
 consist in getting over it. 
 
 After a tolerable breakfast, hunger making chile 
 and garlic supportable, we continued our route ; and 
 were informed that the robbers, having grown very 
 
 6 * 
 
66 
 
 BRIGA>D-LOOKXS'G L-OCDLOKD. 
 
 daring, and the next stage being very dangerous, our 
 escort was to be doubled. Since we left Perote. tlie 
 country had gradually become more drearv. and we 
 had again got into the ••: alpais." where nothing is 
 to be seen but a few fir trees and pines, dark and 
 stunted, black masses of lava, and an occasional, 
 white cross to mark either where a murder has been 
 committed, or where a celebrated robber has been 
 buried. Of each. Don Miguel gave us a succinct 
 account. Some lines of Childe Harold suit this 
 scene as if written for it: 
 
 ” Arihere and there, as up the crags you spring, 
 
 Mark many rude-carved crrsses near the path : 
 
 Tet deem not these devotion’s offering — 
 
 These are memorials frail of murderous ■wrath, 
 
 F or wheresoe'er the shrieking victim hath 
 
 Pcur'd ibrth his bloc i beneath the assassin's knife 
 Seme hand erects a errss of mruldering lath : 
 
 And grove and glen with thousand such are rife, 
 Throughout this purple land, where law secures not life." 
 
 The whole scene was wild and grand, yet dreary and 
 monotonous, presenting the greatest contrast possible 
 to our first day’s journey. The only signs of life to 
 be met with, were the long string of arrieros with 
 their droves of mules, and an occasional Indian 
 hut. with a few miserable half-naked women and 
 children. 
 
 At one small, wild-looking inn, where, very cold 
 and miserable, we stopped, some hot wine was 
 brought us. which was very acceptable. The tavern- 
 keeper, for it was no more than a spirit-shop, if not a 
 robber, had all the appearance of one : wild, melan¬ 
 choly. and with a most sinister expression of counte- 
 
OJO DZ AGUA. 
 
 67 
 
 nance. Salvator never drew a more bandit-looking 
 figure, as he stood there with his blanket and slouch¬ 
 ed hat ; and a knife in his belt, tall and thin and mus¬ 
 cular. with his sallow visage and his sad. fierce eyes. 
 However, he showed us the marks on his door, where 
 a band of twenty robbers had broken in one night, 
 and robbed some travellers who were sleeping there, 
 of a large some of money. 
 
 C-n asked him how the robbers treated the 
 
 women when they fell into their power. ££ Las sa- 
 ludan ,” said he, “ and sometimes carry them off to 
 the mountains, but rarely, and chiefly when they are 
 afraid of their giving information against them.'' 
 
 At Ojo de Agua , where we changed horses, we 
 saw the accommodations which those who travel in 
 private coach or litera must submit to. unless they 
 bring their own beds along with them, and a stock of 
 provisions besides —- a common room like a barn, 
 where all must herd together: and neither chair, nor 
 table, nor food to be had. It was a solitary-looking 
 house, standing lonely on the plain, with a few strag¬ 
 gling sheep nibbling the brown grass in the vicinity. 
 A fine spring of water, from which it takes its name, 
 and Orizava, which seems to have travelled forward, 
 and stands in bold outline against the sapphire sky, 
 were all that we saw there worthy of notice. 
 
 We changed horses at Xopaluca, Acagete and 
 Amosoque, all small villages, with httle more than 
 the posada, and a few poor houses, and all very dirty. 
 The country, however, improves in cultivation and 
 fertility, though the chief trees are the sombre pines. 
 Still accompanied by our two escorts, which had a 
 
68 
 
 PUEBLA. 
 
 very grandiloquent effect, we entered, by four o’clock, 
 Puebla de los Angeles, the second city to Mexico, 
 (after Guadalajara) in the Republic, where we found 
 very fine apartments prepared for us in the inn, and 
 where, after a short rest and a fresh toilette, we went 
 out to see what we could of the city before it grew 
 dusk, before it actually became what it now is, 
 Christmas Eve ! 
 
 It certainly does require some time for the eye to 
 become accustomed to the style of building adopted 
 in the Spanish colonies. There is something at first 
 sight exceedingly desolate-looking in these great 
 wooden doors, like those of immense barns, the great 
 iron-barred windows, the ill-paved court-yards, even 
 the flat roofs; and then the streets, where, though 
 this is a fete-day, we see nothing but groups of peas¬ 
 ants or of beggars — the whole gives the idea of a 
 total absence of comfort. Yet the streets of Puebla 
 are clean and regular, the houses large, the cathedral 
 magnificent, and the plaza spacious and handsome. 
 
 The cathedral was shut,'and is not to be opened 
 till midnight mass, which I regret the less as we must 
 probably return here some day. 
 
 The dress of the Poblana peasants is pretty, es¬ 
 pecially upon fete-days. A white muslin chemise, 
 trimmed with lace round the skirt, neck and sleeves, 
 which are plaited neatly ; a petticoat shorter than the 
 chemise, and divided in two colors, the lower part 
 made generally of a scarlet and black stuff, a manu¬ 
 facture of the country, and the upper part of yellow 
 satin, with a satin vest of some bright color, and cov¬ 
 ered with gold or silver, open in front, and turned 
 
CHRISTMAS EVE. 
 
 69 
 
 back. This vest may be worn or omitted, as suits the 
 taste of the wearer. It is without sleeves but has 
 straps ; the hair plaited in two behind, and the plaits 
 turned up, and fastened together by a diamond 
 ring; long ear-rings, and all sorts of chains and 
 medals, and tinkling things worn round the neck. A 
 long, broad, colored sash, something like an officer’s 
 belt, tied behind after going twice or thrice round the 
 waist, into which is stuck a silver cigar-case. A 
 small colored handkerchief like a broad ribbon, cross¬ 
 ing over the neck, is fastened in front with a brooch, 
 the ends trimmed with silver, and going through the 
 sash. Over all is thrown a reboso, not over the head, 
 but thrown on like a scarf; and they wear silk stock¬ 
 ings, or more commonly no stockings, and white satin 
 shoes trimmed with silver. 
 
 This is on holidays. On common occasions, the 
 dress is the same, but the materials are more com¬ 
 mon, at least the vest with silver is never worn ; but 
 the chemise is still trimmed with lace, and the shoes 
 are satin. . . . 
 
 Christmas Eve in Puebla! The room is filled 
 
 with visiters, who have come to congratulate C-n 
 
 on his arrival, and a wonderfully handsome room it 
 is, to do it justice, with chairs and sofas of scarlet 
 stuff. But I was anxious to see something. As we 
 are to leave Puebla very early, I am prohibited from 
 going to midnight mass. I proposed the theatre, 
 where there is to be a Nacimiento, a representation 
 in figures of various events connected with the Birth 
 of Christ; such as the Annunciation, the Holy Fam¬ 
 ily, the Arrival of the Wise Men of the East, &c. 
 
70 
 
 CHRISTMAS DAY. 
 
 But after some deliberation, it was agreed that this 
 would not do; so finding that there is nothing to be 
 done, and tired of polite conversation, I betake my¬ 
 self to bed. 
 
 Christmas Day. 
 
 It is now about three o’clock, but I was awak¬ 
 ened an hour ago by the sounds of the hymns which 
 ushered in Christmas morning ; and looking from the 
 window, saw by the faint light, bands of girls dressed 
 in white, singing in chorus through the streets. 
 
 We have just taken chocolate, and, amidst a pro¬ 
 fusion of bows and civilities from the landlord, are 
 preparing to set oft' for Mexico. 
 
LETTER THE SIXTH. 
 
 Departure from Puebla — Cliirimoyas — Rio Frio — Indian Game 
 — Black Forest — Valley of Mexico — Recollections of Tenoch- 
 titlan — Mexican Officer — Reception — Scenery — Variety of 
 Dresses — Cheers — Storm of Rain — Entry to Mexico — Buen- 
 avista — House by day-light — Sights from the windows — 
 
 Visits — Mexican Etiquette — Countess C-a — Flowers in 
 
 December — Serenade — Patriotic Hymn. 
 
 Mexico, 2Gth December. 
 
 We left Puebla between four and five in the morn¬ 
 ing, as we purposely made some delay, not wishing 
 to reach Mexico too early, and in so doing, acted 
 contrary to the advice of Don Miguel, who was gene¬ 
 rally right in these matters. The day was very fine 
 when we set off, though rain was predicted. Some 
 of the gentlemen had gone to the theatre the night 
 before, to see the Nacimiento, and the audience had 
 been composed entirely of Gentuza, the common 
 people, who were drinking brandy, and smoking; so it 
 was fortunate that we had not shown our faces there. 
 
 The country was now flat, but fertile, and had on 
 the whole more of a European look than any we had 
 yet passed through. 
 
 At Rio Prieto, a small village where we changed 
 horses, I found that I had been sitting very com- 
 
72 
 
 THE BLACK FOREST. 
 
 fortably with my feet in a basket of chirimoyas, and 
 that my brodequins, white gown, and cloak, had 
 been all drenched with the milky juice, and then 
 made black by the floor of the diligence. 
 
 With no small difficulty a trunk was brought 
 down, and another dress procured, to the great 
 amusement of the Indian women, who begged to 
 know if my gown was the last fashion, and said it 
 was “ muy guapaf very pretty. Here we found good 
 hot coffee, and it being Christmas day, everyone was 
 clean and dressed for mass. 
 
 At Rio Frio, which is about thirteen leagues from 
 Mexico, and where there is a pretty good posada in 
 a valley surrounded by woods, we stopped to dine. 
 The inn is kept by a Bordelaise and her husband, 
 who wish themselves in Bordeaux twenty times a 
 day. In front of the house, some Indians were play¬ 
 ing at a curious and very ancient game — a sort of 
 swing, resembling “ El Juego cle los Voladorcs 
 “ The game of the Flyers,” much in vogue amongst 
 the ancient Mexicans. Our French hostess gave us 
 a good dinner, especially excellent potatoes, and 
 jelly of various sorts, regaling us with plenty of sto¬ 
 ries of robbers and robberies and horrid murders all 
 the while. 
 
 On leaving Rio Frio, the road became more hilly 
 and covered with woods, and we shortly entered the 
 tract known by the name of the Black Forest, a great 
 haunt for banditti, and a beautiful specimen of forest 
 scenery, a succession of lofty oaks, pines and cedars, 
 with wild flowers lighting up their gloomy green. 
 But I confess, that the impatience which I felt to see 
 
VALLEY OF MEXICO. 
 
 73 
 
 Mexico, the idea that in a few hours we should ac¬ 
 tually be there, prevented me from enjoying the 
 beauty of the scenery, and made the road appear 
 interminable. 
 
 But at length we arrived at the heights looking 
 down upon the great valley, celebrated in all parts of 
 the world, with its frame-work of everlasting moun¬ 
 tains, its snow-crowned volcanoes, great lakes, and 
 fertile plains, all surrounding the favored city of 
 Montezuma, the proudest boast of his conqueror, once 
 of Spain’s many diadems the brightest. But the 
 day had overcast, nor is this the most favorable road 
 for entering Mexico. The innumerable spires of the 
 distant city were faintly seen. The volcanoes were 
 enveloped in clouds, all but their snowy summits, 
 which seemed like marble domes towering into the 
 sky. But as we strained our eyes to look into the 
 valley, it all appeared to me rather like a vision of 
 the Past, than the actual, breathing Present. The 
 curtain of Time seemed to roll back, and to discover 
 to us the great panorama that burst upon the eye of 
 Cortes when he first looked down upon the table¬ 
 land ; the king-loving, Cod-fearing conqueror, his 
 loyalty and religion so blended after the fashion of 
 ancient Spain, that it were hard to say which senti¬ 
 ment exercised over him the greater sway. The 
 city of Tenochtitlan, standing in the midst of the five 
 great lakes, upon verdant and flower-covered islands, 
 a western Venice, with thousands of boats gliding 
 swiftly along its streets, long lines of low houses, 
 diversified by the multitudes of pyramidal temples, 
 the Teocalli, or houses of God—— q^inoes covering 
 
 VOL. I. 7 
 
74 
 
 THE ANCIENT TENOCHTITLAN. 
 
 the mirrored lakes — the lofty trees, the flowers, and 
 the profusion of water now wanting to the land¬ 
 scape— the whole fertile valley enclosed by its eter¬ 
 nal hills and snow-crowned volcanoes — what scenes 
 of wonder and of beauty, to burst upon the eyes of 
 these wayfaring men! 
 
 Then the beautiful gardens surrounding the city, 
 the profusion of flowers, and fruit, and birds — the 
 mild bronze-colored Emperor himself, advancing in 
 the midst of his Indian nobility, with rich dress and 
 unshod feet, to receive his unbidden and unwelcome 
 guest — the slaves and the gold and the rich plumes, 
 all to be laid at the feet of “ His most sacred Majes¬ 
 ty ” —what pictures are called up by the recollection 
 of the simple narrative of Cortes, and how forcibly 
 they return to the mind, now, when after a lapse of 
 three centuries, we behold for the first time, the city 
 of palaces raised upon the ruins of the Indian Capi¬ 
 tal ! It seemed scarcely possible that we were 
 indeed so near the conclusion of our journey, and in 
 the midst of so different a scene, only two months 
 minus two days since leaving New York and stepping 
 on board the Norma. How much land and sea we 
 had passed over since then ! How much we had 
 seen ! How many different climates, even in the 
 space of the last four days ! 
 
 But my thoughts which had wandered three cen¬ 
 turies into the past, were soon recalled to the present, 
 by the arrival of an officer in full uniform, at the 
 head of his troop, who came out by order of the 
 government, to welcome the bearer of the olive 
 branch from ancient Spain, and had been on horse- 
 
RECEPTION. 
 
 75 
 
 back since the day before, expecting our arrival. 
 As it had begun to rain, the officer, Colonel Miguel 
 Andrade, accepted our offer of taking shelter in the 
 diligence. We had now a great troop galloping 
 along with us, and had not gone far, before we per¬ 
 ceived that in spite of the rain, and that it already 
 began to grow dusk, there were innumerable carriages 
 and horsemen forming an immense crowd, all coming 
 out to welcome us. Shortly after, the diligence was 
 stopped, and we were requested to get into a very 
 splendid carriage, all crimson and gold, with the 
 arms of the republic, the eagle and nopal, embroid¬ 
 ered in gold on the roof inside, and drawn by four 
 handsome white horses. In the midst of this im¬ 
 mense procession of troops, carriages and horsemen, 
 we made our entry into the city of Montezuma. 
 
 The scenery on this side of Mexico is arid and 
 flat, and where the waters of the Lagunas, covered 
 with their gay canoes, once surrounded the city, 
 forming canals through its streets, we now see mel¬ 
 ancholy marshy lands, little enlivened by great flights 
 of wild duck and water fowl. But the bleakness of 
 the natural scenery was concealed by the gay appear¬ 
 ance of the procession — the scarlet and gold uni¬ 
 forms, the bright-colored sarapes, the dresses of the 
 gentlemen, (most I believe Spaniards) with their 
 handsome horses, high Mexican saddles, gold embroi¬ 
 dered anquercts generally of black fur, their Mexican 
 hats ornamented with gold, richly-furred jackets, 
 pantaloons with hanging silver buttons, stamped- 
 leather boots, silver stirrups and graceful mangas 
 with black or colored velvet capes. 
 
76 
 
 ENTRY INTO MEXICO. 
 
 At the gates of Mexico, the troops halted, and 
 three enthusiastic cheers were given as the carriage 
 entered. It was now nearly dusk, and the rain was 
 falling in torrents, yet we met more carriages full of 
 ladies and gentlemen which joined the others. We 
 found that a house in the suburbs, at Buenavista, had 
 been taken for us provisoirement by the kindness of 
 the Spaniards, especially of a rich merchant who 
 
 accompanied us in the carriage, Don M-1 M-z 
 
 del C-o ; consequently we passed all through 
 
 Mexico before reaching our destination, always in 
 the midst of the crowd, on account of which and of 
 the ill-paved streets, we went very slowly. Through 
 the rain and the darkness, we got an occasional faint 
 lamp-light glimpse of high buildings, churches and 
 convents. Arrived at length, in the midst of torrents 
 
 of rain, C-n got out of the carriage, and returned 
 
 thanks for his reception, giving some ounces to the 
 sergeant for the soldiers. We then entered the 
 house, accompanied by the Mexican officer, and by 
 a large party of Spaniards. 
 
 We found the house very good, especially consid¬ 
 ering that it had been furnished for us in eight-and- 
 forty hours, and we also found an excellent supper 
 smoking on the table, after doing justice to which, 
 we took leave of our friends, and very tired, prepared 
 for sleep. 
 
 The servants and luggage arrived late. They had 
 been left with the diligence, under the guardianship 
 of Don Miguel, and it appeared that the robbers had 
 mingled with the crowd, and followed in hopes of 
 plunder, insomuch that he had been obliged to pro- 
 
HOUSE BY DAY-LIGHT. 
 
 77 
 
 cure two carriages, one for the servants, while into 
 another he put the luggage, mounting in front himself 
 to look out. Tired enough the poor man was, and 
 drenched with rain, and we found that much of this 
 confusion and difficulty, which was chiefly caused by 
 the storm and darkness, would have been avoided had 
 we left Puebla some hours sooner. 
 
 However, “ All’s well that ends well.” I thought 
 of Christmas in “ Merrie England,” and of our family 
 gatherings in the olden time, and as if one had not 
 travelled enough in the body, began travelling in the 
 mind, away to far different, and distant, and long 
 gone-by scenes, fell asleep at length with my thoughts 
 in Scotland, and wakened in Mexico ! 
 
 By day-light we find our house very pretty, with a 
 large garden adjoining, full of flowers, and rosebushes 
 in the court-yard, but being all on the ground-floor, 
 it is somewhat damp, and the weather, though beau¬ 
 tiful, is so cool in the morning, that carpets, and I 
 sometimes think even a soupcon of fire, would not be 
 amiss. The former we shall soon procure, but there 
 are neither chimneys nor grates, and I have no doubt 
 a fire would be disagreeable for more than an hour or 
 so in the morning. The house stands alone, with a 
 large court before it, and opposite to it passes the 
 great stone aqueduct, a magnificent work of the 
 Spaniards, though not more so, probably, than those 
 which supplied the ancient Tenochtitlan with water. 
 Behind it, we see nothing but several old houses, with 
 trees, so that we seem almost in the country. To the 
 right is one large building, with garden and olive- 
 ground, where the English legation formerly lived, a 
 
78 
 
 VISITERS. 
 
 palace in size, since occupied by Santa Anna, and 
 which now belongs to Sehor Perez Galvez ; a house 
 which we shall be glad to have, if the proprietor will 
 consent to let it. 
 
 But what most attracts our attention, are the curi¬ 
 ous and picturesque groups of figures which we see 
 from the windows — men bronze-color, with nothing 
 but a piece of blanket thrown round them, carrying 
 lightly on their heads earthen basins, precisely the 
 color of their own skin, so that they look altogether 
 like figures of terra cotta: these basins filled with 
 sweetmeats or white pyramids of grease (mantequilla); 
 women with rebosos, short petticoats of two colors, 
 generally all in rags, yet with a lace border appearing 
 on their under garment: no stockings, and dirty white 
 satin shoes, rather shorter than their small brown feet; 
 gentlemen on horseback with their Mexican saddles 
 and sarapes ; lounging Uperos, moving bundles of 
 rags, coming to the windows and begging with a 
 most piteous but false-sounding whine, or lying under 
 the arches and lazily inhaling the air and the sun¬ 
 shine, or sitting at the door for hours basking in the 
 sun or under the shadow of the wall; Indian women, 
 with their tight petticoat of dark stuff and tangled 
 hair, plaited with red ribbon, laying down their bas¬ 
 kets to rest, and meanwhile deliberately examining 
 the hair of their copper-colored offspring. We have 
 enough to engage our attention for the present. 
 
 Several visiters came early — gentlemen, both 
 
 Spaniards and Mexicans. Sehor A-z, decidedly 
 
 the ugliest man I ever beheld, with a hump on his 
 back, and a smile of most portentous hideosity, yet cel- 
 
ETIQUETTE. 
 
 79 
 
 ebrated for his bonnes fortunes; Senor de G-a, Ex- 
 
 Minister of the Treasury, extremely witty and agree¬ 
 able, and with some celebrity as a dramatic writer ; 
 
 Count C-a, formerly attached to the bed-chamber 
 
 in Spain, married to a pretty Andalusian, and entirely 
 Mexicanized, his heart where his interests are. He 
 is very gentlemanlike and distinguished-looking, with 
 good manners, and extremely eloquent in conversa¬ 
 tion. I hear him called “ inconsecuente ,” and capri¬ 
 cious, but he has welcomed C-n, who knew him 
 
 intimately in Madrid, with all the warmth of ancient 
 friendship. 
 
 We are told that a great serenade has been for 
 
 some time in contemplation, to be given to C-—n, 
 
 the words, music and performance by the young 
 Spaniards resident here. 
 
 21th. — A day or two must elapse before I can 
 satisfy my curiosity by going out, while the necessary 
 arrangements are making concerning carriage and 
 horses, or mules, servants, &c.; our vehicles from 
 the United States not having yet arrived, nor is it 
 difficult to foresee, even from once passing through 
 the streets, that only the more solid-built English 
 carriages will stand the wear and tear of a Mexican 
 life, and that the comparatively flimsy coaches which 
 roll over the well-paved streets of New York, will 
 not endure for any length of time. 
 
 Meanwhile we have constant visits, but chiefly 
 from gentlemen and from Spaniards, for there is one 
 piece of etiquette, entirely Mexican, nor can I im¬ 
 agine from whence derived, by which it is ordained 
 that all new arrivals, whatever be their rank, foreign 
 
80 
 
 VISITS. 
 
 Ministers not excepted, must in solemn print give 
 notice to every family of any consideration in the 
 capital, that they have arrived, and offer themselves 
 and their house to their “disposition;” failing in 
 which etiquette, the newly-arrived family will remain 
 unnoticed and unknown. Our cards to this effect 
 are consequently being printed under the auspices of 
 
 Count C-a. I have, however, received the visits 
 
 of some ladies who have kindly waved this ceremony 
 in my favor ; and amongst others, from the Dowager 
 
 and the young Countesses of C-a; the eldest a very 
 
 distinguished woman, of great natural talent, one of 
 the true ladies of the old school, of whom not many 
 specimens now remain in Mexico ; the other, ex¬ 
 tremely pretty, lively and amiable, a true Andalusian 
 both in beauty and wit. The old Countess was 
 dressed in black velvet, black blonde mantilla, dia¬ 
 mond ear-rings and brooch — her daughter-in-law 
 also in black, with a mantilla, and she had a pretty 
 little daughter with her, whose eyes will certainly 
 produce a kindling effect on the next generation. 
 
 They were both extremely kind and cordial; if 
 there are many such persons in Mexico, we shall 
 have no reason to complain. I hope I am not seeing 
 the cream before the milk ! 
 
 Some Mexican visits appear to me to surpass in 
 duration all that one can imagine of a visit, rarely 
 lasting less than one hour, and sometimes extending 
 over a great part of the day. And gentlemen at 
 least, arrive at no particular time. If you are going 
 to breakfast, they go also — if to dinner, the same — 
 if you are asleep, they wait till you awaken — if out, 
 
VISITS. 
 
 81 
 
 they call again. An indifferent sort of man, whose 
 name I did not even hear, arrived yesterday a little 
 after breakfast, sat still, and walked in to a late din¬ 
 ner with us ! These should not be called visits, but 
 visitations, though I trust they do not often occur to 
 that extent. An open house and an open table for 
 your friends — which includes every passing ac¬ 
 quaintance ; these are merely Spanish habits of hos¬ 
 pitality transplanted. 
 
 Had a visit from Sehor - and his wife, very 
 
 civil and obliging people, always agreeing with each 
 other, and with you, and with all the world, almost 
 to the extent of Polonius to Hamlet. Our conversa¬ 
 tion reminded me of that the whole time they were 
 here. 
 
 I have just brought from the garden a lap-full of 
 pink roses, clove carnations and sweet pease. Ro¬ 
 setta could not sing here — 
 
 “ For June and December will never agree.” 
 
 The weather is lovely, the air fresh and clear, the 
 sky one vast expanse of bright blue, without a single 
 cloud. Early this morning it was cool, but now, by 
 ten o’clock, the air is as soft and balmy as on a sum¬ 
 mer day with us. 
 
 28 th. — Day of the memorable serenade. After 
 dinner, some ladies paid me a visit, amongst others 
 the wife and daughter of the Spanish consul, Sehor 
 
 M-y, who were accompanied by the sister of 
 
 Count A-a. They and a few gentlemen arrived 
 
 about six o’clock, and it was said that the serenade 
 would not begin till twelve. It may be supposed 
 
82 
 
 SERENADE. 
 
 that our conversation, however agreeable it might be, 
 would scarcely hold out that time. In fact, by nine 
 o’clock, we were all nearly overcome by sleep, and 
 by ten I believe we were already in a refreshing 
 slumber, when we were awakened by the sound of 
 crowds assembling before the door, and of carriages 
 arriving and stopping. Not knowing who the occu¬ 
 pants might be, we could not invite them in, which 
 seemed very inhospitable, as the night, though fine, 
 was cold and chilly. About eleven Count and 
 
 Countess C-a arrived, and the Senora de 
 
 G-a, a remarkably handsome woman, a Span¬ 
 
 iard, looking nearly as young as her daughters — 
 also the pretty daughters of the proprietress of 
 this house, who was a beauty, and is married to her 
 third husband, and a lively little talkative person, 
 
 the Senora de L-n, all Spanish ; and who, some 
 
 on that account, and others from their husbands 
 
 having been former friends of C-n’s have not 
 
 waited for the ceremony of receiving cards. Grad¬ 
 ually, however, several Mexican ladies, whom we 
 had sent out to invite, came in. Others remained in 
 their carriages, excusing themselves on the plea of 
 their not being en toilette. We had men a discre¬ 
 tion , and the rooms were crowded. 
 
 About midnight, arrived a troop of Mexican sol¬ 
 diers, carrying torches, and a multitude of musicians, 
 both amateur and professional, chiefly the former, 
 and men carrying music-stands, violins, violoncellos, 
 French horns, &c., together with an immense crowd, 
 mingled with numbers of leperos, so that the great 
 space in front of the house as far as the aqueduct, 
 
SERENADE. 
 
 83 
 
 and all beyond and along the street as far as we 
 could see, was covered with people and carriages. 
 We threw open the windows, which are on a level 
 with the ground, with large balconies and wide iron 
 gratings, and the scene by the torch light was very 
 curious. The Mexican troops holding lights for the 
 musicians ; and they of various countries, Spanish, 
 German and Mexican ; the leperos with their ragged 
 blankets and wild eyes that gleamed in the light of 
 the torches, the ladies within and the crowd without, 
 all formed a very amusing spectacle. 
 
 At length the musicians struck up in full chorus, 
 accompanied by the whole orchestra. The voices 
 were fine, and the instrumental music so good, I 
 could hardly believe that almost all were amateur 
 performers. 
 
 A hymn, which had been composed for the occa¬ 
 sion, and of which we had received an elegantly 
 bound copy in the morning, was particularly effective. 
 The music was composed by Senor R.etes, and the 
 words by Senor Covo, both Spaniards. Various 
 Overtures from the last Operas were played, and at 
 the end of what seemed to be the first act, in the 
 midst of deafening applause from the crowd, C——n 
 made me return thanks from the window in beautiful 
 impromptu Spanish ! Then came shouts of “ Viva 
 la Espana!” “Viva Ysabel Segunda ! ” “Viva el 
 Ministro de Espana ! ” Great and continued cheer¬ 
 ing. Then C——n gave in return “ Viva la Repub- 
 lica Mexicana ! ” “ Viva Bustamante ! ” and the 
 shouting was tremendous. At last an Andalusian in 
 the crowd shouted out “ Viva todo el Mundo ! ” 
 
84 
 
 PATRIOTIC HYMN. 
 
 Long live every body; which piece of wit was fol¬ 
 lowed by general laughter. 
 
 After hot punch and cigars had been handed 
 about out of doors, a necessary refreshment in this 
 cold night, the music recommenced, and the whole 
 ended with the national hymn of Spain, with appro¬ 
 priate words. A young Spanish girl, whose voice is 
 celebrated here, was then entreated by those within, 
 and beseeched by those without, to sing alone the 
 
 Hymn composed in honor of C-n, which she 
 
 naturally felt some hesitation in doing, before such 
 an immense audience. However, she consented at 
 last, and in a voice like a clarion, accompanied by 
 the orchestra, sung each verse alone, joined in the 
 chorus, by the whole crowd. I give you a copy. 
 
 Himno Patriotico que varios Espanoles Residentes en Mexico 
 
 Dedican al Esmo Sr. Don A-C-de la B-, Ministro 
 
 Plenipotenciario de S. M. C. en la Repdblica, con Motivo de su 
 llegada 4 dicha Capital. 
 
 Musica del Sr. J. N. de Retes ; Palabras del Sr. Dn. Juan 
 Covo. 
 
 COEO. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, 
 
 Triunfamos enfln, 
 
 Y libre respira 
 La Patria del Ciel. 
 
 La Augusta Cristina 
 De Espana embeleso, 
 
 El mas tierno beso 
 Imprime d Ysabel: 
 
 Y reina, le dice 
 No la sobre esclavos ; 
 
 Sobre Iberos bravos 
 Sobre un pueblo fiel. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 
PATRIOTIC HYMN. 
 
 85 
 
 Donde esta de Carlos 
 La perfida hueste ? 
 
 Un rayo celeste 
 Polvo la tornd. 
 
 Rayo que al malvado 
 Hundio en el abismo 
 Rayo que al Carlismo 
 Libertad lanzo. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 
 Al bravo Caudillo 
 Al bueno al vaiiente 
 Cinamos la frente 
 De mirto y laurel. 
 
 Tu diestra animosa 
 Heroico guerrero 
 Tu diestra, Espartero 
 Sojuzgo al infiel. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 
 Veranse acatadas 
 Nuestras santas leyes ; 
 Temblaran los Reyes 
 De Esparia al poder. 
 
 Y el cetro de oprobrio 
 Si empuna un tirano 
 De su infame mano 
 Le haremos cser. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 
 Salud 4 Ysabela 
 Salud 4 Cristina 
 Que el cielo destina 
 La patria 4 salvar. 
 
 Y el libre corone 
 La Candida frente 
 De aquella inocente 
 Que juro amparar. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 8 
 
 VOL. 
 
 I. 
 
86 
 
 PATRIOTIC HYMN. 
 
 Y tu, Mensagero 
 De paz y ventura 
 Oye la voz pura 
 De nuestra lealtad. 
 
 Oye los acentos 
 
 Que al cielo elevamos 
 Oye cual gritamos 
 Patria ! Libertad ! 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 
 Tu el simbolo digno 
 
 Serds C - n, 
 
 De grata reumion 
 De etema Amistad 
 Que ya en ambos mundos 
 La insana discordia 
 Trocose en concordia 
 
 Y fraternidad. 
 
 Triunfamos Amigos, &c. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 Patriotic Hymn which various Spaniards, resident in Mexico, 
 
 Dedicate to His Excellency Senor Don A-C-de la B-, 
 
 Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary from H. C. M. 
 to the Republic, to celebrate his arrival in this Capital. 
 
 The music by Senor Don J. N. de Retes ; the words by Senor 
 Don Juan Covo. 
 
 chorus. 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, 
 
 Let us triumph at length, 
 
 And let the country of the Cid 
 Breathe freely again. 
 
 The august Christina 
 The ornament of Spain 
 Imprinted the most tender kiss 
 On the cheek of Isabel. 
 
PATRIOTIC HYMN. 
 
 And “ reign,” slie said to lier, 
 
 “ Not now over slaves, 
 
 But over brave Iberians 
 Over a faithful people ! ” 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 Where is the perfidious 
 Army of Carlos ? 
 
 A celestial thunderbolt 
 Has turned it to dust. 
 
 A thunderbolt which plunged 
 The wicked one into the abyss, 
 
 A thunberbolt which Liberty 
 Lanched against Carlism. 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 Of the brave chief, 
 
 Of the good, the valiant, 
 
 Let us gird the forehead 
 With myrtle and laurel. 
 
 Thy brave right hand 
 Heroic warrior 
 Thy right hand, Espartero 
 Subdued the Disloyal One. 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 Our holy laws 
 
 Will be acknowledged, 
 
 And kings will tremble 
 At the power of Spain. 
 
 And should a tyrant grasp 
 The sceptre of opprobrium, 
 
 From his infamous hand 
 We shall cause it to fall. 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 Health to Isabella 
 Health to Christina 
 Whom Heaven has destined 
 To save the country. 
 
88 
 
 FINE VOICE. 
 
 And may he freely crown 
 The white forehead 
 Of the innocent princess 
 He swore to protect. 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 And thou, Messenger 
 Of peace and joy, 
 
 Hear the pure voice 
 Of our loyalty. 
 
 Hear the accents 
 Which we raise to Heaven, 
 
 Hear what we cry 
 CountryLiberty ! 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 Thou, C -n, shalt be 
 
 The worthy symbol 
 Of grateful reunion 
 Of eternal friendship, 
 
 Which already has changed 
 In both worlds 
 Insane Discord 
 Into concord and fraternity. 
 
 Let us triumph my friends, &c. 
 
 The air was rent with vivas! and bravos! as the 
 Senorita de F-concluded. Her voice was beau¬ 
 
 tiful, and after the first moment of embarrassment, 
 she sang with much spirit and enthusiasm. This was 
 the finale of the serenade, and then the serenaders 
 were invited in, and were in such numbers that the 
 room would scarcely hold them all. More cigars, 
 more punch, more giving of thanks. About three 
 o’clock, the crowd began to disperse, and at length 
 after those Spanish leave-takings, which are really no 
 joke, had ended, Captain E-, C-n and I, all 
 
ACTORS AND MATADORS. 
 
 89 
 
 three excessively cold and shivering, having passed 
 the night at the open windows, consoled ourselves 
 with hot chocolate and punch, and went to dream of 
 sweet-sounding harmonies. Altogether, it was a 
 scene which I would not have missed for a great deal. 
 
 The enthusiasm caused by the arrival of the first 
 minister from Spain seems gradually to increase. 
 The actors are to give him a “funcion extraordina- 
 ria ,” in the theatre — the matadors a bull-fight ex¬ 
 traordinary, with fire-works. But in all this 
 
 you must not suppose there is any personal compli¬ 
 ment. It is merely intended as a mark of good will 
 towards the first representative of the Spanish mon¬ 
 archy who brings from the mother country the for¬ 
 mal acknowledgment of Mexican independence. 
 
 & 
 
LETTER THE SEVENTH. 
 
 D6but in Mexico — Cathedral — Temple of the Aztecs — Congre¬ 
 gation — Stone of sacrifices — Palace — Importunate 16peros — 
 
 Visit to the President — Countess C-a—Street cries — Tor- 
 
 tilleras —Sartor Rcsartus. 
 
 I made my debut in Mexico by going to mass in the 
 cathedral. We drove through the Alameda, near 
 which we live, and admired its noble trees, flowers, 
 and fountains, all sparkling in the sun. We met but 
 few carriages there, an occasional gentleman on horse¬ 
 back, and a few solitary-looking people resting on 
 the stone benches, also plenty of beggars, and the 
 forcats in chains, watering the avenues. We passed 
 through the Calle San Francisco, the handsomest street 
 in Mexico, both as to shops and houses, (containing, 
 amongst others, the richly carved but now half-ruined 
 palace of Yturbide) and which terminates in the 
 great square where stand the cathedral and the 
 palace. The streets were crowded, it being a holi¬ 
 day; and the purity of the atmosphere, with the sun 
 pouring down upon the bright-colored groups, and 
 these groups so picturesque, whether of soldiers or 
 monks, peasants or veiled ladies; the very irregular¬ 
 ity of the buildings, the number of fine churches and 
 old convents, and everything on so grand a scale, 
 even though touched by the finger of time, or crush- 
 
CATHEDRAL. 
 
 91 
 
 ed by the iron heel of revolution, that the attention 
 is constantly kept alive, and the interest excited. 
 
 The carriage drew up in front of the cathedral, 
 built upon the site of part of the ruins of the great 
 temple of the Aztecs ; of that pyramidal temple, con¬ 
 structed by Ahuitzotli , the sanctuary so celebrated 
 by the Spaniards, and which comprehended with all 
 its different edifices and sanctuaries, the ground on 
 which the cathedral now stands, together with part of 
 the plaza and streets adjoining. 
 
 We are told, that within its enclosure were five 
 hundred dwellings, that its hall was built of stone 
 and lime, and ornamented with stone serpents. We 
 hear of its four great gates, fronting the four car¬ 
 dinal points, of its stone-paved court, great stone 
 stairs, and sanctuaries dedicated to the gods of war; 
 of the square destined for religious dances, and the 
 colleges for the priests, and seminaries for the priest¬ 
 esses ; of the horrible temple, whose door was an 
 enormous serpent’s mouth ; of the temple of mirrors 
 and that of shells ; of the house set apart for the 
 Emperor’s prayers ; of the consecrated fountains, 
 the birds kept for sacrifice, the gardens for the holy 
 flowers, and of the terrible towers composed of the 
 skulls of the victims ; strange mixture of the beauti¬ 
 ful and the horrible ! We are told that five thousand 
 priests chanted night and day in the Great Temple, 
 to the honor and in the service of the monstrous 
 Idols, who were anointed thrice a day with the most 
 precious perfumes, and that of these priests the most 
 austere were clothed in black, their long hair dyed 
 with ink, and their bodies anointed with the ashes of 
 
92 
 
 TRADITIONS. 
 
 burnt scorpions and spiders ; their chiefs were the 
 sons of kings. 
 
 It is remarkable, by the way, that their god of war 
 Mejitli, was said to have been born of a woman, a 
 Holy Virgin, who was in the service of the temple, 
 and that when the priests having knowledge of her 
 disgrace, would have stoned her, a voice was heard, 
 saying: “Fear not, mother; for I shall save thy 
 honor and my gloryupon which, the god was 
 born, with a shield in his left hand, an arrow in his 
 right, a plume of green feathers on his head ; his face 
 painted blue, and his left leg adorned with feathers ! 
 Thus was his gigantic statue represented. 
 
 There were gods of the Water, of the Earth, of 
 Night, Fire and Hell; goddesses of Flowers and of 
 Corn ; there were oblations offered of bread and 
 flowers and jewels, but we are assured that from 
 twenty to fifty thousand human victims were sacri¬ 
 ficed annually in Mexico alone ! That these ac¬ 
 counts are exaggerated, even though a Bishop is 
 among the narrators, we can scarcely doubt, but if 
 the tenth part be the truth, let the memory of Cortes 
 be sacred, who, with the cross stopped the shedding 
 of innocent blood, founded the cathedral on the ruins 
 of the temple, which had so often resounded with 
 human groans, and in the place of these blood- 
 smeared idols enshrined the mild form of the Virgin. 
 
 Meanwhile we entered the Christian edifice, which 
 covers an immense space of ground, is of the gothic 
 form, with two lofty ornamented towers, and is still 
 immensely rich in gold, silver and jewels. A balus¬ 
 trade running through it, which was brought from 
 
AZTEC CALENDAR. 
 
 93 
 
 China, is said to be very valuable, but seems to me 
 more curious than beautiful. It is a composition of 
 brass and silver. Not a soul was in the sacred pre¬ 
 cincts this morning, but miserable leperos in rags and 
 blankets, mingled with women in ragged rebosos — 
 at least a sprinkling of ladies with mantillas was so 
 very slight, that I do not think there were half a 
 dozen in all. The floor is so dirty that one kneels 
 with a feeling of horror, and an inward determination 
 to effect as speedy a change of garments afterwards, 
 as possible. Besides, many of my Indian neighbors 
 were engaged in an occupation which I must leave to 
 your imagination ; in fact, relieving their heads from 
 the pressure of the colonial system ; or rather, eradi¬ 
 cating and slaughtering the colonists, who swarm 
 there like the emigrant Irish in the United States. I 
 was not sorry to find myself once more in the pure 
 air after mass ; and have since been told that except 
 on peculiar occasions, and at certain hours, few la¬ 
 dies perform their devotions in the cathedral. I shall 
 learn all these particulars in time. 
 
 We saw as we passed out, the Aztec Calendar, a 
 round stone covered with hieroglyphics, which is still 
 preserved and fastened on the outside of the cathe¬ 
 dral. We afterwards saw the Stone of Sacrifices, 
 now in the court yard of the University, with a hollow 
 in the middle, in which the victim was laid, while six 
 priests, dressed in red, their heads adorned with 
 plumes of green feathers, (they must have looked like 
 macaws) with gold and green ear-rings, and blue 
 stones in their upper lips, held him down, while the 
 chief priest cut open his breast, threw his heart at the 
 
94 
 
 PRESENTATION. 
 
 feet of the idol, and afterwards put it into his mouth 
 with a golden spoon. They then cut off his head, to 
 make use of it in building the tower of skulls, eat 
 some parts of him, and either burnt the rest, or 
 threw it to the wild beasts who were maintained in 
 the palace. 
 
 These interesting particulars occurred to us as we 
 looked at the Stone, and we were not sorry to think 
 that it is now more ornamental than useful. 
 
 After leaving the cathedral, C-n fastened on 
 
 his orders in the carriage, as this day was appointed 
 for his presentation to the President, and we drove 
 to the palace, where I left him, and returned home. 
 He was received with great etiquette, a band of music 
 playing in the court, the President in full uniform, 
 surrounded by all his ministers and aides-de-camp, 
 standing before a throne, under a velvet dais, his feet 
 upon a tabouret, the whole being probably the same 
 as was used by the Viceroys Viva la Rejmblica ! 
 
 C-n made a discourse to him, and he made one 
 
 in return, both of which may be found by those who 
 are curious in these matters, in the Diario of the 
 31st December. 
 
 Whilst I am writing, a horrible lepero, with great 
 leering eyes, is looking at me through the win¬ 
 dows, and performing the most extraordinary series 
 of groans, displaying at the same time a hand 
 with two long fingers, probably the other three 
 tied in. “ Sehorita ! Sehorita ! For the love of the 
 Most Holy Virgin ! For the sake of the most 
 pure blood of Christ! By the miraculous Concep¬ 
 tion ! — ” The wretch ! I dare not look up, bu,t 
 
LEPEROS. 
 
 95 
 
 I feel that his eyes are fixed upon a gold watch and 
 seals lying on the table. That is the worst of a 
 house on the ground floor. . . . There come more 
 of them ! A paralytic woman mounted on the back 
 of a man with a long beard. A sturdy-looking indi¬ 
 vidual, who looks as if, were it not for the iron bars, 
 he would resort to more effective measures, is hold¬ 
 ing up a deformed foot, which I verily believe is 
 merely fastened back in some extraordinary way. 
 What groans ! what rags! what a chorus of whin¬ 
 ing ! This concourse is probably owing to our having 
 sent them some money yesterday. I try to take no 
 notice, and write on as if I were deaf. I must walk 
 out of the room, without looking behind me, and 
 send the porter to disperse them. There are no bell- 
 ropes in these parts. . . . 
 
 I come back again to write, hardly recovered from 
 the start that I have just got. I had hardly written 
 the last words, when I heard a footstep near me, and, 
 looking up, lo ! there was my friend with the foot, 
 standing within a yard of me, his hand stretched out 
 for alms ! I was so frightened, that for a moment I 
 thought of giving him my watch, to get rid of him. 
 However, I glided past him with a few unintelligible 
 words, and rushed to call the servants ; sending him 
 some money by the first person who came. The 
 porter, who had not seen him pass, is now dispers¬ 
 ing the crowd. What vociferous exclamations! 
 
 A-has come in, and drawn the curtains, and I 
 
 think they are going off. 
 
 Yesterday evening, I was taken to visit the Presi¬ 
 dent. The palace is an immense building, contain- 
 
96 
 
 GENERAL BUSTAMANTE. 
 
 ing, besides the apartments of the President and his 
 ministers, all the chief courts of justice. It occupies 
 one side of the square, but is no way remarkable in 
 its architecture. At the end of every flight of steps 
 that we mounted, we came upon lounging soldiers, 
 in their yellow cloaks, and women in rebosos, stand¬ 
 ing about. We passed through a hall filled with 
 soldiers, into the antechamber, where we were re¬ 
 ceived by several aides-de-camp, who conducted us 
 into a very well-furnished room, where we sat a few 
 minutes, till an officer came to lead us into the re¬ 
 ception-room, which is a handsome apartment, 
 about a hundred feet long, and fitted up with crim¬ 
 son and gold, also well lighted. General Busta¬ 
 mante, now in plain clothes, gave us a very cordial 
 reception. 
 
 He looks like a good man, with an honest, benevo¬ 
 lent face, frank and simple in his manners, and not 
 at all like a hero. His conversation was not brilliant, 
 indeed I do not know apropos to what, I suppose to 
 the climate, but it chiefly turned on medicine. There 
 cannot be a greater contrast, both in appearance and 
 reality, than between him and Santa Anna. There 
 is no lurking devil in his eye. All is frank, open, 
 and unreserved. It is impossible to look in his face 
 without believing him to be an honest and well-in¬ 
 tentioned man. An unprincipled but clever writer, 
 has said of him, that he has no great capacity or su¬ 
 perior genius, but that, whether from reflection or 
 from slowness of comprehension, he is always ex¬ 
 tremely calm in his determinations ; that before en¬ 
 tering into any project, he inquires and considers 
 
FINE HOUSES. 
 
 97 
 
 deeply as to whether it be just or not; but that once 
 convinced that it is or appears to be so, he sustains 
 his ground with firmness and constancy. He adds, 
 that it suits him better to obey than to command, for 
 which reason he was always so devoted a servant of 
 the Spaniards and of Yturbide. 
 
 He is said to be a devoted friend, is honest to a 
 proverb, and personally brave, though occasionally 
 deficient in moral energy. He is therefore an esti¬ 
 mable man, and one who will do his duty to the best 
 of his ability, though whether he has severity and 
 energy sufficient for those evil days in which it is his 
 lot to govern, may be problematical. 
 
 Having made a sufficiently long visit to His Ex¬ 
 cellency, we went to return that of the Countess 
 
 C-a, who has a magnificent house, with suits of 
 
 large rooms, of which the drawing-room is particu¬ 
 larly handsome, of immense size, the walls beautifully 
 painted, the subjects religious, and where I found one 
 of Broadwood’s finest grand pianos. But although 
 there are cabinets inlaid with gold, fine paintings, 
 and hundreds of rich and curious things, our Euro¬ 
 pean eyes are struck with numerous inconsistencies 
 in dress, servants, <Yc., in all of which there is a want 
 of keeping very remarkable. Yet this house, and 
 the one adjoining, which also belongs to the family, 
 are palaces in vastness, and the Countess receives 
 me more as if I were her daughter, than a person 
 with whom she has been acquainted but a few days. 
 
 There are an extraordinary number of street-cries 
 in Mexico, which begin at dawn and continue till 
 night, performed by hundreds of discordant voices, 
 9 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
98 
 
 STREET CRIES. 
 
 impossible to understand at first ; but Senor -- 
 
 lias been giving me an explanation of them, until I 
 begin to have some distinct idea of their meaning. 
 At dawn you are awakened by the shrill and de¬ 
 sponding cry of the Carbonero, the coal-men, “Car¬ 
 bon ! Senor,” which as he pronounces it, sounds like 
 “ Carbosiu ! ” Then the grease-man takes up the 
 song, “ Mantequilla ! lard ! lard ! at one real and a 
 half.” “ Salt beef! good salt beef! ” (Cecina bu- 
 ena! ”) interrupts the butcher in a hoarse voice. 
 “ Hay cebo-o-o-o-o-o ? ” This is the prolonged and 
 melancholy note of the woman who buys kitchen 
 suet, and stops before the door. Then passes by the 
 cambista, a sort of Indian she-trader or exchanger, 
 who sings out, “ Tejocotes por venas de chile?” a 
 small fruit which she proposes exchanging for hot 
 peppers. No harm in that. 
 
 A kind of ambulating pedler drowns the shrill 
 treble of the Indian cry. He calls aloud upon the 
 public to buy needles, pins, thimbles, shirt-buttons, 
 tape, cotton-balls, small mirrors, &c. He enters the 
 house, and is quickly surrounded by the women, 
 young and old, offering him the tenth part of what 
 he asks, and which, after much haggling, he accepts. 
 Behind him stands the Indian with his tempting bas¬ 
 kets of fruit, of which he calls out all the names, till 
 the cook or housekeeper can resist no longer, and 
 putting her head over the balustrade, calls him up 
 with his bananas, and oranges, and granaditas, &c. 
 
 A sharp note of interrogation is heard, indicating 
 something that is hot, and must be snapped up 
 quickly before it cools. “ Gorditas de horna ca- 
 
TORTILLAS. 
 
 99 
 
 liente ?” Little fat cakes from the oven, hot ? ” 
 This is in a female key, sharp and shrill. Follows 
 the mat-seller. “ Who wants mats from Puebla ? 
 mats of five yards ? ” These are the most matinal 
 cries. 
 
 At mid-day the beggars begin to be particularly 
 importunate, and their cries, and prayers, and long 
 recitations, form a running accompaniment to the 
 other noises. Then above all rises the cry of “ Hon¬ 
 ey-cakes ! ” “ Cheese and honey ? ” “ Requeson 
 
 and good honey ? ” ( Requeson being a sort of hard 
 
 curd, sold in cheeses.) Then come the dulce-men, 
 the sellers of sweetmeats, of meringues, which are 
 very good, and of all sorts of candy. “ Caramelos 
 de esperma ! bocadillo de coco ! ” Then the lottery- 
 men, the messengers of Fortune, with their shouts of 
 “ The last ticket, yet unsold, for half a real! ” a 
 tempting aqilouncement to the lazy beggar, who finds 
 it easier to gamble than to work, and who may have 
 that sum hid about his rags. 
 
 Towards evening rises the cry of “ Tortillas de 
 cuajada ? ” “ Curd-cakes ? ” or, “ Do you take 
 
 nuts ? ” succeeded by the night-cry of “ Chestnuts 
 hot and roasted! ” and by the affectionate venders 
 of ducks ; “ Ducks, oh my soul, hot ducks ! ” 
 
 “ Maize-cakes,” &c., &c., &c. As the night wears 
 away, the voices die off, to resume next morning in 
 fresh vigor. 
 
 Tortillas, which are the common food of the peo¬ 
 ple, and which are merely maize cakes mixed with a 
 little lime, and of the form and size of what we call 
 scones , I find rather good when very hot and fresh- 
 
100 
 
 SARTOR RESARTUS. 
 
 baked, but insipid by themselves. They have been 
 in use all through this country since the earliest ages 
 of its history, without any change in the manner 
 of baking them, excepting that, for the noble Mexi¬ 
 cans in former days, they used to be kneaded with 
 various medicinal plants, supposed to render them 
 more wholesome. They are considered particularly 
 palatable with chile, to endure which, in the quanti¬ 
 ties in which it is eaten here, it seems to me neces¬ 
 sary to have a throat lined with tin. 
 
 In unpacking some books to-day, I happened to 
 take up “ Sartor Resartus,” which, by a curious coin¬ 
 cidence, opened of itself, to my great delight, at the 
 following passage: 
 
 “ The simplest costume,” observes our Professor, 
 “ which I anywhere find alluded to in history, is that 
 used as regimental by Bolivar’s cavalry, in the late 
 Columbian wars. A square blanket, twelve feet in 
 diagonal, is provided, (some were wont to cut off the 
 corners, and make it circular;) in the centre a slit is 
 effected, eighteen inches long; through this the 
 mother-naked trooper introduces his head and neck ; 
 and so rides, shielded from all weather, and in battle 
 from many strokes (for he rolls it about his left arm ;) 
 and not only dressed, but harnessed and draperied.” 
 Here then we find the true “ Old Roman contempt 
 of the superfluous,” which seems rather to meet the 
 approbation of the illustrious Professor Tenfelsdroch. 
 
LETTER THE EIGHTH. 
 
 Ball in preparation — Agreeable family—Fine voices — Theatre 
 
 — Smoking—Castle of Chapultepec — Viceroy Galvez — 
 Montezuma’s Cypress — Vice-Queen — Valley of Mexico — 
 New Year’s Day — Opening of Congress—Visits from the 
 Diplomatic Corps — Poblana Dress — “ Funcion extraordi- 
 naria ” — Theatre — Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe 
 
 — Divine Painting — Bishop—Beggars— Mosquitoes’ Eggs. 
 
 A great ball is to be given on the 8th of January, 
 in the theatre, for the benefit of the poor, which is 
 to be under the patronage of the most distinguished 
 ladies of Mexico. After much deliberation amongst 
 the patronesses, it is decided that it shall be a bal 
 costume, and I have some thoughts of going in the 
 Poblana dress, which I before described to you. As 
 
 I am told that the Senora G--a wore it at a ball 
 
 in London, when her husband was minister there, I 
 have sent my maid to learn the particulars from her. 
 
 We called to-day on a family nearly related to the 
 
 C-as, and who have been already excessively 
 
 kind to us; Senor A-d, who is married to a 
 
 daughter of Don Francisco Tagle, a very distin¬ 
 guished Mexican. We found a very large, very 
 handsome house, the walls and roof painted in the 
 old Spanish style, which, when well executed, has 
 an admirable effect. The lady of the house, who is 
 
102 
 
 THEATRE. 
 
 only nineteen, I took a fancy to at first sight. She 
 is not regularly beautiful, but has lovely dark eyes 
 and eyebrows, with fair complexion and fair hair, 
 and an expression of the most perfect goodness, with 
 very amiable manners. I was surprised by hearing 
 her sing several very difficult Italian songs with great 
 expression, and wonderful facility. She has a fine 
 contralto, which has been cultivated; but some 
 Spanish ballads, and little songs of the country, she 
 sang so delightfully, and with so much good-nature 
 and readiness, that had it not been a first visit, I 
 should have begged her to continue during half the 
 morning. Fine voices are said to be extremely com¬ 
 mon, as is natural in a country peopled from Spain, 
 and the opera, while it lasted, contributed greatly to 
 tiie cultivation of musical taste. 
 
 In the evening we went to the theatre. Such a 
 theatre! dark, dirty, redolent of bad odors ; the pas¬ 
 sages leading to the boxes so ill-lighted, that one is 
 afraid in the dark to pick one’s steps through them. 
 The acting was nearly of a piece. The first actress, 
 who is a favorite, and who dresses well, and bears a 
 high reputation for good conduct, is perfectly wood¬ 
 en, and never frightened out of her proprieties in the 
 most tragical scenes. I am sure there is not a fold 
 deranged in her dress when she goes home. Besides, 
 she has a most remarkable trick of pursing up her 
 mouth in a smile, and frowning at the same time 
 with tears in her eyes, as if personifying an April 
 day. I should like to hear her sing 
 
 “ Said a smile to a tear.” 
 
 There was no applause, and half the boxes were 
 
CHAPULTEPEC. 
 
 103 
 
 empty, whilst those who were there seemed merely 
 to occupy them from the effect of habit, and be¬ 
 cause this is the only evening amusement. The 
 prompter spoke so loud, that as 
 
 “ Coming events cast their shadows before,” 
 
 every word was made known to the audience in con¬ 
 fidence, before it came out upon the stage officially. 
 The whole pit smoked, the galleries smoked, the 
 boxes smoked, the prompter smoked, a long stream 
 of smoke curling from his box, giving something 
 oracular and Delphic to his prophecies. 
 
 “ The force of smoking could no farther go.” 
 
 The theatre is certainly unworthy of this fine city. 
 
 31^. — We have spent the day in visiting the 
 castle of Chapultepec, a short league from Mexico, 
 the most haunted by recollections of all the tradition¬ 
 ary sites of which Mexico can boast. Could these 
 hoary cypresses speak, what tales might they not 
 disclose, standing there with their long gray beards, 
 and outstretched venerable arms, century after cen¬ 
 tury ; already old when Montezuma was a boy, and 
 still vigorous in the days of Bustamante ! There has 
 the last of the Aztec emperors wandered with his 
 dark-eyed harem. Under the shade of these gigantic 
 trees he has rested, perhaps smoked his “ tobacco 
 mingled with amber,” and fallen to sleep, his dreams 
 unhaunted by visions of the stern traveller from the 
 far-east, whose sails even then might be within sight 
 of the shore. In these tanks he has bathed. Here 
 were his gardens, and his aviaries, and his fish-ponds. 
 Through these now tangled and deserted woods, he 
 
104 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS. 
 
 may have been carried by his young nobles in his 
 open litter, under a splendid dais, stepping out upon 
 the rich stuffs which his slaves spread before him on 
 that green and velvet turf. 
 
 And from the very rock where the Castle stands, 
 he may have looked out upon his fertile valley, and 
 great capital, with its canoe-covered lakes, and 
 outspreading villages and temples, and gardens of 
 flowers, no care for the future darkening the bright 
 vision. 
 
 Tradition says, that now these caves and tanks 
 and woods are haunted by the shade of the Conquer¬ 
 or’s Indian love, the far-famed Doha Marina, but I 
 think she would be afraid of meeting with the wrath¬ 
 ful spirit of the Indian emperor. 
 
 The Castle itself, modern though it be, seems like 
 a tradition. The Viceroy Galvez, who built it, is of 
 a by-gone race ! The apartments are lonely and 
 abandoned, the walls falling to ruin, the glass of the 
 windows and the carved work of the doors have 
 been sold; and, standing at this great height, expos¬ 
 ed to every wind that blows, it is rapidly falling to 
 
 decay. We were accompanied by Count C-a, 
 
 and received by a Mexican governor, who rarely re¬ 
 sides there, and who very civilly conducted us every¬ 
 where. But Chapultepec is not a show-place. One 
 must go there early in the morning, when the dew is 
 on the grass, or in the evening, when the last rays of 
 the sun are gilding with rosy light the snowy sum¬ 
 mits of the volcanoes; and dismount from your 
 horse, or step out of your carriage, and wander forth 
 without guide, or object, or fixed time for return. 
 
MONTEZUMA S CYPRESS. 
 
 105 
 
 We set off early, passing over a fine paved road, 
 divided by a great and solid aqueduct of nine hun¬ 
 dred arches, one of the two great aqueducts by which 
 fresh water is conveyed to the city, and of which the 
 two sources are in the hill of Chapultepec, and in 
 that of Santa Fe, at a much greater distance. When 
 we arrived, the sleepy soldiers, who were lounging 
 before the gates, threw them open to let the carriage 
 enter, and we drew up in front of the great cypress, 
 known by the name of “ Montezuma’s Cypress,” a 
 most stupendous tree, dark, solemn and stately, its 
 branches unmoved as the light wind played amongst 
 them, of most majestic height, and forty-one feet in 
 circumference. A second cypress standing near, and 
 of almost equal size, is even more graceful, and they, 
 and all the noble trees which adorn these speaking 
 solitudes, are covered with a creeping plant resem¬ 
 bling gray moss, hanging over every branch like long 
 gray hair, giving them a most venerable and druid- 
 ical look. 
 
 We wandered through the noble avenues, and 
 rested under the trees, and walked through the tan¬ 
 gled shrubberies, bright with flowers and colored 
 berries, and groped our way into the cave, and stood 
 by the large clear tank, and spent some time in the 
 old garden ; and then got again into the carriage, 
 that we might be dragged up the precipitous ascent 
 on which stands the castle, the construction of which 
 aroused the jealousy of the government against the 
 young Count, whose taste for the picturesque had 
 induced him to choose this elevated site for his sum¬ 
 mer palace. 
 
106 
 
 VICE-QTJEEN. 
 
 The interior was never finished ; yet, even as it 
 stands, it cost the Spanish government three hun¬ 
 dred thousand dollars. When we look at its strong 
 military capabilities and commanding position, forti¬ 
 fied with salient walls and parapets towards Mexico, 
 and containing on its northern side great moats and 
 subterranean vaults capable of holding a vast supply 
 of provisions, the jealousy of the government and 
 their suspicions that it was a fortress masked as a 
 summer retreat, are accountable enough. 
 
 The Vice-Queen Galvez was celebrated for her 
 beauty and goodness, and was universally adored in 
 Mexico. A sister of hers, who still survives, and who 
 paid me a visit the other day, says that her beauty 
 chiefly consisted in the exceeding fairness of her 
 complexion, very few blondes having then been seen 
 in this part of the world. 
 
 From the terrace that runs round the Castle, the 
 view forms the most magnificent panorama that can 
 be imagined. The whole valley of Mexico lies 
 stretched out as in a map ; the city itself, with its in¬ 
 numerable churches and convents ; the two great 
 aqueducts which cross the plain ; the avenues of elms 
 and poplars which lead to the city ; the villages, lakes 
 and plains which surround it. To the north, the 
 magnificent Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe — 
 to the south, the villages of San Agustin, San Angel, 
 and Tacubaya, which seem embosomed in trees, and 
 look like an immense garden. And if in the plains 
 below, there are many uncultivated fields and many 
 buildings falling to ruin, yet with its glorious enclo¬ 
 sure of lofty mountains, above which tower the two 
 
NEW YEAR’S DAY. 
 
 107 
 
 mighty volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, the 
 Gog and Magog of the valley, off whose giant sides 
 great volumes of misty clouds were rolling, and with 
 its turquoise sky forever smiling on the scene, the 
 whole landscape, as viewed from this height, is one of 
 nearly unparalleled beauty. 
 
 Is* January , 1840. — New Year’s Day! The 
 birth of the young year is ushered in by no remark¬ 
 able signs of festivity. More ringing of bells, more 
 chanting of mass, gayer dresses amongst the peasants 
 in the streets, and more carriages passing along, and 
 the ladies within rather more dressed than apparently 
 they usually are, when they do not intend to pay 
 visits. In passing through the Plaza this morning, 
 our carriage suddenly drew up, and the servants took 
 off their hats. At the same moment, the whole 
 population, men, women and children, venders and 
 buyers, peasant and sehora, priest and layman, drop¬ 
 ped on their knees, a picturesque sight. Presently a 
 coach came slowly along through the crowd, with the 
 mysterious Eye painted on the panels, drawn by 
 piebald horses, and with priests within, bearing the 
 divine symbols. On the balconies, in the shops, in 
 the houses and on the streets, every one knelt while 
 it passed, the little bell giving warning of its approach. 
 
 We were then at the door of the palace, where we 
 went this morning to see the opening of Congress, 
 the two houses being included in this building. The 
 House of Representatives, though not large, is hand¬ 
 some, and in good taste. Opposite to the presiden¬ 
 tial chair, is a full-length representation of Our Lady 
 of Guadalupe. All round the hall, which is semi- 
 
108 
 
 DIPLOMATIC CORPS. 
 
 circular, are inscribed the names of the heroes of in¬ 
 dependence, and that of the Emperor Agustin Ytur- 
 bide is placed on the right of the presidential chair, 
 with his sword hanging on the wall; while on the left 
 of the chief magistrate’s seat there is a vacant space ; 
 perhaps destined for the name of another emperor. 
 The multitude of priests with their large shovel-hats, 
 and the entrance of the president in full uniform an¬ 
 nounced by music and a flourish of trumpets, and 
 attended by his staff, rendered it as anti-republican 
 looking an assembly as one could wish to see. The 
 utmost decorum and tranquillity prevailed. The 
 president made a speech in a low and rather monot¬ 
 onous tone, which in the diplomates seat, where we 
 were, was scarcely audible. No ladies were in the 
 house, myself excepted ; which 1 am glad I was not 
 aware of, before going, or I should perhaps have staid 
 away. 
 
 Yesterday, I received visits from the gentlemen of 
 the diplomatic corps, who are not in great numbers 
 here. England, Belgium, Prussia, and the United 
 States, are the only countries at present represented, 
 Spain excepted. The French minister has not ar¬ 
 rived yet, but is expected in a few days. I was not 
 sorry to hear English spoken once more, and to meet 
 with so gentlemanly a person as the minister who for 
 the last fourteen years has represented our island in 
 the Republic. His visit, and a large packet of let¬ 
 ters just received from Paris and from the United 
 States, have made me feel as if the distance from 
 home were diminished by one half. 
 
 This morning a very handsome dress was for- 
 
POBLANA DRESS. 
 
 109 
 
 warded to me with the compliments of a lady whom 
 
 I do not know, the wife of General-; with a 
 
 request, that if I should go to the Fancy ball as a 
 Poblana peasant, I may wear this costume. It is a 
 Poblana dress, and very superb ; consisting of a petti¬ 
 coat of maroon colored merino with gold fringe, gold 
 bands and spangles ; an under petticoat embroidered 
 and trimmed with rich lace, to come below it. The 
 first petticoat is trimmed with gold up the sides, 
 which are slit open, and tied up with colored ribbon. 
 With this must be worn a chemise, richly embroi¬ 
 dered round the neck and sleeves, and trimmed with 
 lace ; a satin vest, open in front, and embroidered 
 in gold ; a silk sash tied behind, the ends fringed with 
 gold, and a small silk handkerchief which crosses the 
 neck, with gold fringe. I had already another dress 
 prepared, but I think this is the handsomer of the 
 two. 
 
 The actors have just called to inform C——n, 
 that their “ funcion extraordinaria ” in his honor, is 
 to be given on the third, that a box is prepared for 
 us, and that the play is to be Don John of Austria. 1 
 
 4th. —Having sat through five acts last evening in 
 the theatre, we came home very tired. The play was 
 awfully long, lasting from eight o’clock till one in the 
 morning. At the end of the first act, the Prefect and 
 other dignitaries came round with much precipitation 
 and carried off C-——n to a large box in the centre, 
 intended for him; for not knowing which it was, we 
 had gone to that of the Countess C-a. The the- 
 
 1 Translated from the French of Casimir Delavigne. 
 VOL. i. 10 
 
110 
 
 GUADALUPE. 
 
 atre looked much more decent than before ; being 
 lighted up, and the boxes hung with silk draperies in 
 honor of the occasion. The ladies also were in full 
 dress, and the boxes crowded, so that one could 
 scarcely recognise the house. 
 
 This morning we drove out to see the Cathedral 
 
 of Our Lady of Guadalupe ; C-n in one carriage 
 
 with Count C-a, and the Senora C-a and I 
 
 in another, driven by Senor A-d, who is a cele¬ 
 
 brated whip ; the carriage open, with handsome white 
 horses, frisones as they here call the northern horses, 
 whether from England or the United States, and 
 which are much larger than the spirited little horses 
 of the country. As usual, we were accompanied by 
 four armed out-riders. 
 
 We passed through miserable suburbs, ruined, 
 dirty, and with a commingling of odors which I could 
 boldly challenge those of Cologne to rival. After 
 leaving the town, the road is not particularly pretty, 
 but is for the most part, a broad, strait avenue, bounded 
 on either side by trees. 
 
 At Guadalupe, on the hill of Tepayac, there stood 
 in days of yore, the Temple of Tonantzin, the god¬ 
 dess of earth and of corn, a mild deity, who rejected 
 human victims, and was only to be propitiated by the 
 sacrifices of turtle-doves, swallows, pigeons, &c. She 
 was the protectress of the Totonoqui Indians. The 
 spacious church, which now stands at the foot of the 
 mountain, is one of the richest in Mexico. Having 
 put on veils, no bonnets being permitted within the 
 precincts of a church, we entered this far-famed 
 
THE BISHOP. 
 
 Ill 
 
 sanctuary, and were dazzled by the profusion of sil¬ 
 ver with which it is ornamented. 
 
 The divine painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe, 
 represents her in a blue cloak covered with stars, a 
 garment of crimson and gold, her hands clasped, and 
 her foot on a crescent, supported by a cherub. The 
 painting is coarse, and only remarkable on account of 
 the tradition attached to it. 
 
 We afterwards visited a small chapel, covered by a 
 dome, built over a boiling spring, whose waters pos¬ 
 sess miraculous qualities, and bought crosses and 
 medals which have touched the holy image, and 
 pieces of white ribbon, marked with the measure of 
 the Virgin’s hands and feet. We climbed (albeit very 
 warm) by a steep path to the top of the hill, where 
 there is another chapel, from which there is a superb 
 view of Mexico ; and beside it, a sort of monument 
 in the form of the sails of a ship, erected by a grate¬ 
 ful Spaniard, to commemorate his escape from ship¬ 
 wreck, which he believed to be owing to the interces¬ 
 sion of Our Lady of Guadalupe. We then went to 
 the village to call on the Bishop, the Ylustrisimo Senor 
 Campos, whom we found in his canonicals, and who 
 seems a good, little old man, but no conjuror ; although 
 I believe he had the honor of bringing up his cousin, 
 Senor Posada, destined to be Archbishop of Mexico. 
 We found him quietly seated in a large, simply fur¬ 
 nished room, and apparently buried over some huge 
 volumes, so that he was not at first aware of our 
 entrance. 
 
 A picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe hung on the 
 wall, which C-n having noticed, he observed that 
 
112 
 
 THE LEGEND. 
 
 he could not answer for its being a very faithful re¬ 
 semblance, as Our Lady did not appear often, not so 
 often as people supposed. Then folding his hands, 
 and looking down, he proceeded to recount the his¬ 
 tory of the miraculous apparition, pretty much as 
 follows. 
 
 In 1531, ten years and four months after the con¬ 
 quest of Mexico, the fortunate Indian whose name 
 was Juan Diego, and who was a native of Cuatitlan, 
 went to the suburb of Tlaltelolco to learn the Christian 
 doctrine which the Franciscan monks taught there. 
 As he was passing by the mountain of Tepeyac, the 
 Holy Virgin suddenly appeared before him and or¬ 
 dered him to go, in her name, to the Bishop, the Ylus- 
 trisimo D. Fr. Juan de Zumarraga, and to make 
 known to him that she desired to have a place of 
 worship erected, in her honor, on that spot. The 
 next day the Indian passed by the same place, when 
 again the Holy Virgin appeared before him, and de¬ 
 manded the result of his commission. Juan Diego 
 replied, that in spite of all his endeavors, he had not 
 been able to obtain an audience of the Bishop. 
 “ Return,” said the Virgin, “ and say that it is I, 
 the Virgin Mary, the Mother of God, who sends 
 thee.” Juan Diego obeyed the Divine orders, yet 
 still the Bishop wmuld not give him credence, merely 
 desiring him to bring some sign or token of the Virgin’s 
 will. He returned with this message on the twelfth 
 of December, when, for the third time, he beheld the 
 apparition of the Virgin. She now commanded him 
 to climb to the top of the barren rock of Tepeyac, 
 to gather the roses which he should find there, and to 
 
THE LEGEND. 
 
 113 
 
 bring them to her. The humble messenger obeyed, 
 though well knowing, that on that spot were neither 
 flowers nor any trace of vegetation. Nevertheless, 
 he found the roses, which he gathered and brought 
 to the Virgin Mary, who, throwing them into his 
 tilma, said, “ Return ; show these to the Bishop, and 
 tell him that these are the credentials of thy mission.” 
 Juan Diego set out for the episcopal house, which 
 stood on the ground occupied by the Hospital, now 
 called San Juan de Dios, and when he found himself 
 in presence of the Prelate, he unfolded his tilma to 
 show him the roses, when there appeared imprinted 
 on it, the miraculous image which has existed for 
 more than three centuries. 
 
 When the Bishop beheld it, he was seized with 
 astonishment and awe, and conveyed it in solemn 
 procession to his own oratory, and shortly after this 
 splendid church was erected in honor of the patron¬ 
 ess of New Spain. “ From all parts of the country,” 
 continued the old Bishop, “ people flock in crowds to 
 see our Lady of Guadalupe, and esteem it an honor 
 only to obtain a sight of her. What then must be 
 my happiness, who can see her most gracious Majesty 
 every hour and every minute of the day ! I would 
 not quit Guadalupe for any other part of the world, 
 nor for any temptation that could be held out to 
 me;” and the pious man remained for a few min¬ 
 utes as if wrapt in ecstasy. That he was sincere in 
 his assertions, there could be no doubt. As evening 
 prayers were about to begin, we accompanied him 
 to the Cathedral. An old woman opened the door 
 10 * 
 
114 
 
 GENUFLECTIONS. 
 
 for us as we passed out. “ Have my chocolate 
 ready when I return,” said the Bishop. “ Si padre- 
 cito! ” said the old woman, dropping upon her 
 knees, in which posture she remained for some min¬ 
 utes. As we passed along the street, the sight of the 
 reverend man had the same effect; all fell on their 
 knees as he passed, precisely as if the Host were car¬ 
 ried by, or the shock of an earthquake were felt. 
 Arrived at the door of the Cathedral, he gave us his 
 hand, or rather his pastoral amethyst to kiss. 
 
 The organ sounded fine as it pealed through the 
 old Cathedral, and the setting sun poured his rays 
 in through the Gothic windows with a rich and 
 glowing light. The church was crowded with peo¬ 
 ple of the village, but especially with leperos, count¬ 
 ing their beads, and suddenly in the midst of an 
 “ Ave Maria Purisima,” flinging themselves and their 
 rags in your path with a “ Por el amor de la Santisi- 
 ma Virgen ! ” and if this does not serve their pur¬ 
 pose, they appeal to your domestic sympathies. 
 From men they entreat relief “By the life of the 
 Sehorita.” From women, “ By the life of the little 
 child !” From children it is “By the life of your 
 mother ! ” And a mixture of pity and superstitious 
 feeling makes most people, women at least, draw out 
 their purses. 
 
 Count C-a has promised to send me to-mor¬ 
 
 row a box of mosquitoes’ eggs, of which tortillas are 
 made, which are considered a great delicacy. Con¬ 
 sidering mosquitoes as small winged cannibals, I was 
 rather shocked at the idea, but they pretend that 
 
MOSQUITOES EGGS. 
 
 115 
 
 these which are from the Laguna, are a superior race 
 of creatures, which do not sting. In fact the Span¬ 
 ish historians mention that the Indians used to eat 
 bread made of the eggs which the fly called agayacatl 
 laid on the rushes of the lakes, and which they (the 
 Spaniards) found very palatable, 
 
LETTER. THE NINTH. 
 
 Visits from Spaniards — Visit from tlie President — Disquisition 
 
 — Poblana Dress — Bernardo the Matador — Bull-Fight extra¬ 
 ordinary — Plaza de Toros — Fireworks — Portrait of C-n 
 
 — F ancy-Ball — Dress — Costume of the Patronesses — Beauty 
 in Mexico — Doctor’s Visit — Cards of faire part — Marquesa 
 de San Roman — Toilette in MorningVisits of Ceremony — At¬ 
 tempt at Robbery — Murder of a Consul — La GUera Rodriguez 
 
 — Dr. Plan — M. de Humboldt — Anecdote — Former Cus¬ 
 toms. 
 
 5th January. 
 
 Yesterday (Sunday) a great day here for visiting 
 after mass is over. We had a concourse of Span¬ 
 iards, all of whom seemed anxious to know whether 
 or not I intended to wear a Poblana dress at the 
 fancy ball, and seemed wonderfully interested about 
 it. Two young ladies or women of Puebla, intro¬ 
 duced by Senor-came to proffer their services 
 
 in giving me all the necessary particulars, and dressed 
 the hair of Josefa, a little Mexican girl, to shew me 
 how it should be arranged ; mentioned several things 
 still wanting, and told me that every one was much 
 pleased at the idea of my going in a Poblana dress. 
 I was rather surprised that every one should trouble 
 themselves about it. About twelve o’clock the presi¬ 
 dent, in full uniform, attended by his aides-de-camp, 
 paid me a visit, and sat about half an hour, very 
 
WARNINGS. 
 
 117 
 
 amiable, as usual. Shortly after came more visits, 
 and just as we supposed they were all concluded, 
 and were going to dinner, we were told that the 
 secretary of state, the ministers of war and of the 
 interior, and others, were in the drawing-room. And 
 what do you think was the purport of their visit? To 
 adjure me, by all that was most alarming, to discard 
 the idea of making my appearance in a Poblana dress! 
 They assured us that Poblanas generally were femmes 
 de rien, that they wore no stockings, and that the wife of 
 the Spanish minister should by no means assume, even 
 for one evening, such a costume. I brought in my 
 dresses, showed their length and their propriety, but 
 in vain ; and, in fact, as to their being in the right, 
 there could be no doubt, and nothing but a kind mo¬ 
 tive could have induced them to take this trouble; 
 so I yielded with a good grace, and thanked the 
 cabinet council for their timely warning, though fear¬ 
 ing, that in this land of procrastination, it would be 
 difficult to procure another dress for the fancy-ball; 
 for you must know, that our luggage is still toiling its 
 weary way, on the backs of mules, from Vera Cruz 
 to the capital. They had scarcely gone, when Senor 
 
 -brought a message from several of the principal 
 
 ladies here, whom we do not even know, and who had 
 requested, that as a stranger, I should be informed of 
 the reasons which rendered the Poblana dress objec¬ 
 tionable in this country, especially on any public occa¬ 
 sion like this ball. I was really thankful for my 
 escape. 
 
 Just as I was dressing for dinner, a note was 
 brought, marked reservada (private) the contents of 
 
118 
 
 FIRST MATADOR. 
 
 which appeared to me more odd than pleasant. I 
 have since heard, however, that the writer, Don Jose 
 Arnaiz, is an old man, and a sort of privileged char¬ 
 acter, who interferes in everything, whether it con¬ 
 cerns him or not. I translate it for your benefit. 
 
 “ The dress of a Poblana is that of a woman of no 
 character. The lady of the Spanish minister is a 
 lady in every sense of the word. However much 
 she may have compromised herself, she ought neither 
 to go as a Poblana, nor in any other character but 
 
 her own. So says to the Senor de C-n, Jose 
 
 Arnaiz, who esteems him as much as possible.” 
 
 6th. — Early this morning, this being the day of 
 the “ bull-fight extraordinary,” placards were put up, 
 as I understand, on all the corners of the street, an¬ 
 nouncing it, accompanied by a portrait of C-n! 
 
 Count C-a came soon after breakfast, accompa¬ 
 
 nied by Bernardo, the first matador, whom he brought 
 to present to us. I send you the white satin note of 
 invitation, with its silver lace and tassels, to show 
 you how beautifully they can get up such things 
 here. The matador is a handsome but heavy-look¬ 
 ing man, though said to be active and skilful. To¬ 
 morrow I shall write you an account of my first bull¬ 
 fight- 
 
 1th. — Yesterday, towards the afternoon, there 
 were great fears of rain, which would have caused a 
 postponement of the combat; however, the day 
 cleared up, the bulls little knowing how much their 
 fate depended upon the clouds. A box in the cen¬ 
 tre, with a carpet and a silver lamp, had been pre¬ 
 pared for us, but we went with our friends, the 
 
BULL-FIGHT. 
 
 119 
 
 C-as, into their box adjoining. The scene, to 
 
 me especially, who have not seen the magnificence 
 of the Madrid arena, was animating and brilliant in 
 the highest degree. Fancy an immense amphithea¬ 
 tre with four great tiers of boxes, and a range of un¬ 
 covered seats in front; the whole crowded almost to 
 suffocation; the boxes filled with ladies in full dress, 
 and the seats below by gaily dressed and most en¬ 
 thusiastic spectators — two military bands of music, 
 playing beautiful airs from the operas; an extraordi¬ 
 nary variety of brilliant costumes, all lighted up by 
 the eternally deep, blue sky ; ladies and peasants, 
 and officers in full uniform, and you may conceive 
 that it must have been altogether a varied and curi¬ 
 ous spectacle. 
 
 About half past six, a flourish of trumpets an¬ 
 nounced the president, who came in uniform with 
 his staff, and took his seat to the music of “ Guerra ! 
 Guerra ! I bellici trombi.” Shortly after the matadors 
 and picadors, the former on foot, the latter on horse¬ 
 back, made their entry, saluting all round the arena, 
 and were received with loud cheering. 
 
 Bernardo’s dress of blue and silver was very su¬ 
 perb, and cost him five hundred dollars. The signal 
 was given — the gates were thrown open, and a bull 
 sprang into the arena; not a great, fierce-looking 
 animal, as they are in Spain, but a small, angry, wild¬ 
 looking beast, with a troubled eye. 
 
 “ Thrice sounds the clarion ; lo ! the signal falls, 
 
 The den expands, and expectation mute 
 Gapes round the silent circle’s peopled walls. 
 
 Bounds with one lashing spring the mighty brute, 
 
120 
 
 BULL-FIGHT. 
 
 And, wildly staring, spurns, with sounding foot 
 The sand, nor blindly rushes on his foe ; 
 
 Here, there, he points his threatening front, to suit 
 His first attack, wide waving to and fro 
 His angry tail; red rolls his eye’s dilated glow.” 
 
 A picture equally correct and poetical. That first 
 jjose of the bull is superb ! Pasta, in her Medea, did 
 not surpass it. Meanwhile the matadors and the 
 banderilleros shook their colored scarfs at him — the 
 picadors poked at him with their lances. He rushed 
 at the first, and tossed up the scarfs which they threw 
 at him, while they sprung over the arena ; galloped 
 after the others, sticking the horses, so that along 
 with their riders they occasionally rolled in the dust; 
 both, how r ever, almost instantly recovering their equi¬ 
 librium, in which there is no time to be lost. Then 
 the matadors would throw fireworks, crackers adorn¬ 
 ed with streaming ribbons, which stuck on his horns, 
 and, as he tossed his head, enveloped him in a blaze 
 of fire. Occasionally the picador would catch hold 
 of the bull’s tail, and passing it under his own right 
 leg, wheel his horse round, force the bull to gallop 
 backwards, and throw him on his face. 
 
 Maddened with pain, streaming with blood, stuck 
 full of darts, and covered with fireworks, the unfor¬ 
 tunate beast went galloping round and round, plung¬ 
 ing blindly at man and horse, and frequently trying 
 to leap the barrier, but driven back by the waving 
 hats and shouting of the crowd. At last, as he stood 
 at bay, and nearly exhausted, the matador ran up and 
 gave him the mortal blow, considered a peculiar proof 
 of skill. The bull stopped, as if he felt that his hour 
 
FIREWORKS. 
 
 121 
 
 were come, staggered, made a few plunges at nothing, 
 and fell. A finishing stroke, and the bull expired. 
 
 The trumpets sounded, the music played. Four 
 horses galloped in tied to a yoke, to which the bull 
 was fastened, and swiftly dragged out of the arena. 
 This last part had a fine effect, reminding one of a 
 Roman sacrifice. In a similar manner, eight bulls 
 were done to death. The scene is altogether fine, 
 the address amusing, but the wounding and torment¬ 
 ing of the bull is sickening, and as here, the tips of 
 his horns are blunted, one has more sympathy with 
 him than with his human adversaries. It cannot be 
 good to accustom a people to such bloody sights. 
 
 Yet let me confess, that though at first I covered 
 my face and could not look, little by little I grew so 
 much interested in the scene, that I could not take 
 my eyes off it, and I can easily understand the plea¬ 
 sure taken in these barbarous diversions, by those ac¬ 
 customed to them from childhood. 
 
 The bull-fight having terminated amidst loud and 
 prolonged cheering from the crowd, a tree of fire¬ 
 works, erected in the midst of the arena, was lighted, 
 and amidst a blaze of colored light, appeared, first 
 the Arms of the Republic, the Eagle and Nopal; 
 and above, a full-length portrait of C-n ! repre¬ 
 
 sented by a figure in a blue and silver uniform. 
 Down fell the Mexican eagle with a crash at his feet, 
 while he remained burning brightly, and lighted up 
 by fireworks, in the midst of tremendous shouts and 
 cheers. Thus terminated this “funcion extrnordi- 
 ?i aria and when all was over, we went to dine at 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 11 
 
122 
 
 FANCY BALL. 
 
 Countess C-a's, had some music in the evening, 
 
 and afterwards returned home tolerably tired. 
 
 10th .—The fancy-ball took place last evening in 
 the theatre, and although, owing either to the change 
 of climate, or to the dampness of the house, I have 
 been obliged to keep my room since the day of the 
 bull-fight, and to decline a pleasant dinner at the 
 English Minister’s, I thought it advisable to make my 
 appearance there. Having discarded the costume of 
 the light-headed Poblanas, I adopted that of a virtuous 
 Roman Contadina, simple enough to be run up in one 
 day ; a white skirt, red boddice with blue ribbons, 
 and lace veil put on square behind; apropos to 
 which head-dress, it is very common amongst the 
 Indians to wear a piece of stuff folded square, and 
 laid flat upon the head, in this Italian fashion ; and 
 as it is not fastened, I cannot imagine how they trot 
 along, without letting it fall. 
 
 We went to the theatre about eleven, and found 
 the entree , though crowded with carriages, very quiet 
 and orderly. The coup d’ceil on entering was ex¬ 
 tremely gay, and certainly very amusing. The ball, 
 given for the benefit of the poor, was under the pa¬ 
 tronage of the ladies C-a, G-a, Guer-a, 
 
 and others, but such was the original dirtiness and 
 bad condition of the theatre, that to make it decent, 
 they had expended nearly all the proceeds. As it 
 was, and considering the various drawbacks, the ar¬ 
 rangements were very good. Handsome lustres had 
 superseded the lanterns with their tallow candles, the 
 boxes were hung with bright silk draperies, and a 
 canopy of the same drawn up in the form of a tent, 
 
FANCY BALL. 
 
 123 
 
 covered the whole ball-room. The orchestra also 
 was tolerably good. The boxes were filled with la¬ 
 dies, presenting an endless succession of China crape 
 shawls of every color and variety, and a monotony of 
 diamond ear-rings ; while in the theatre itself, if ever 
 a ball might be termed a fancy-ball, this was that 
 ball. Of Swiss peasants, Scotch peasants, and all 
 manner of peasants there were a goodly assortment; 
 as also of Turks, Highlanders, and men in plain 
 clothes. But being public, it was not, of course, 
 select, and amongst many well-dressed people, there 
 were hundreds who, assuming no particular charac¬ 
 ter, had exerted their imagination to appear merely 
 fanciful, and had succeeded. One, for example, 
 would have a scarlet satin petticoat, and over it a 
 pink satin robe, with scarlet ribbons to match. 
 Another, a short blue satin dress, beneath which ap¬ 
 peared a handsome purple satin petticoat; the whole 
 trimmed with yellow bows. They looked like the 
 signs of the zodiac. All had diamonds and pearls ; 
 old and young, and middle-aged ; including little 
 children, of whom there were many. 
 
 The lady-patronesses were very elegant. The 
 
 Senora de Gu-a, wore a head-dress in the form 
 
 of a net, entirely composed of large pearls and dia¬ 
 monds ; in itself a fortune. The Senora de C-a, 
 
 as Madame de la Valliere, in black velvet and dia¬ 
 monds, looking pretty, as usual, but the cold of the 
 house obliged her to muffle up in furs and boas, and 
 
 so to hide her dress. The Senora de G-a, as 
 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, in black velvet and pearls, 
 with a splendid diamond necklace, was extremely 
 
124 
 
 FANCY BALL. 
 
 handsome ; she wore a cap, introduced by the Al- 
 bini, in the character of the Scottish Queen, but 
 which, though pretty in itself, is a complete deviation 
 from the beautiful simplicity of the real Queen-Mary 
 cap. She certainly looked as if she had arrived at 
 her prime without knowing Fotheringay. 
 
 Various ladies were introduced to me, who are only 
 waiting to receive our cards of faire part, before 
 they call. Amongst the girls, the best dresses that I 
 
 observed were the Senoritas de F-d, the one 
 
 handsome, with the figure and face of a Spanish 
 peasant; the other much more graceful and intelli¬ 
 gent-looking, though with less actual beauty. How¬ 
 ever, so many of the most fashionable people were in 
 their boxes, that I am told this is not a good occasion 
 on which to judge of the beauty or style of toilette of 
 the Mexican women ; besides which, these fancy 
 balls being uncommon, they would probably look 
 better in their usual costume. Upon the whole, I 
 saw few striking beauties, little grace, and very little 
 good dancing. There was too much velvet and 
 satin, and the dresses were too much loaded. The 
 diamonds, though superb, were frequently ill-set. 
 The dresses, compared with the actual fashion, were 
 absurdly short, and the feet, naturally small y were 
 squeezed into shoes still smaller, which is destructive 
 to grace, whether in walking or dancing. 
 
 I saw many superb pairs of eyes, and beautiful 
 hands and arms, perfect models for a sculptor, the 
 hands especially ; and very few good complexions. 
 
 There was a young gentleman pointed out to me, 
 as being in the costume of a Highlander! How I 
 
FANCY BALL. 
 
 125 
 
 wished that Sir William Cumming, Macleod of Mac- 
 leod, or some veritable Highland chieftain could sud¬ 
 denly have appeared to annihilate him, and show the 
 people here what the dress really is ! There were 
 various unfortunate children, bundled up in long 
 satin or velvet dresses, covered with blonde and 
 jewels, and with artificial flowers in their hair. 
 
 The room was excessively cold, nor was the an¬ 
 cient odor of the theatre entirely obliterated ; nor 
 indeed do I think that all the perfumes of Arabia 
 would overpower it. Having walked about, and 
 admired all the varieties of fancy costumes, I, 
 
 being nearly frozen, went to the Countess C-a’s 
 
 box on the pit tier, and enveloped myself in a cloak. 
 They pointed out the most distinguished persons in 
 
 the boxes, amongst others the family of the E-s, 
 
 who seem very handsome, with brilliant colors and 
 fine teeth. We remained until three in the morning 
 and declined all offers of refreshment, though, after 
 all, a cup of hot chocolate would not have been 
 amiss. There was supper somewhere, but I believe 
 attended only by gentlemen. I had the satisfaction, 
 in passing out, to see numerous ladies on their part¬ 
 ners’ arms, and all bedizened as they were with 
 finerj% stop under the lamps, and light their cigars, — 
 cool and pretty. 
 
 1 6th. — I have passed nearly a week in a slight 
 fever; shivering and hot. I was attended by a doc¬ 
 tor of the country, who seems the most harmless 
 creature imaginable. Every day he felt my pulse, 
 and gave me some little innocent mixture. But what 
 he especially gave me, was a lesson in polite conver- 
 ll* 
 
126 
 
 MEXICAN DOCTOR. 
 
 sation. Every clay, we had the following dialogue, 
 as he rose to take leave 
 
 “ Madam 1 (this by the bed-side) I am at your 
 service.” 
 
 “ Many thanks, sir.” 
 
 “ Madam ! (this at the foot of the bed) know me 
 for your most humble servant.” 
 
 “ Good morning, sir.” 
 
 “ Madam ! (here he stopped beside a table) I kiss 
 your feet.” 
 
 “ Sir, I kiss your hand.” 
 
 “ Madam! (this near the door) my poor house, 
 and all in it, myself, though useless, all I have, is 
 yours.” 
 
 “ Many thanks, sir.” 
 
 He turns round and opens the door, again turning 
 round as he does so, 
 
 “Adieu, Madam ! your servant.” 
 
 “ Adieu, sir.” 
 
 He goes out, partly re-opens the door, and puts in 
 his head, 
 
 “ Good morning, Madam ! ” 
 
 This civility, so lengthened out, as if parting were 
 such “ sweet sorrow,” between doctor and patient, 
 seems rather misplaced. It is here considered more 
 polite to say Sehorita than Sehora, even to married 
 women, and the lady of the house is generally called 
 by her servants, “ La Nina,” the little girl, even 
 though she be over eighty. This last custom is still 
 more common in Havana, where the old negresses, 
 who have always lived in the family, and are accus¬ 
 tomed to call their young mistress by this name, 
 never change, whatever be her age. 
 
DIAMONDS. 
 
 127 
 
 I have received a packet of letters which have 
 done me more good than the old doctor’s visits. 
 The captain left us yesterday, and took charge of a 
 box of chocolate stamped with various figures, and 
 of some curious dulces for you. Our cards, giving 
 the Mexicans the tardy information of our arrival, 
 were sent out some days ago. I copy one, that you 
 may have a specimen of the style, which looks for 
 all the world like that of a shop-advertisement, pur¬ 
 porting that Don-— makes wigs, dresses hair, and 
 
 so forth, while Doha-washes lace, and does up 
 
 fine linen. 
 
 “ Don A-C-de la B-, Enviado Extra- 
 
 ordinario y Ministro Plenipotenciario de S. M. C. 
 cerca de la Republica Mexicana ; y su Esposa, Doha 
 
 F- E- C- de la B-; Participan a v 
 
 su Llegada a este Capital, y se ofrecen a su disposi- 
 cion, en la Plazuela de Buenavista, No. 2.” 1 
 
 18th. — For these last few days, our rooms have 
 been filled with visiters, and my eyes are scarcely yet 
 accustomed to the display of diamonds and pearls, 
 silks, satins, blondes and velvets, in which the ladies 
 have paid their first visits of etiquette. A few of the 
 dresses I shall record for your benefit, not as being 
 richer than the others, but that I happen to recollect 
 them best. — The Marquesa de San Roman, an old 
 lady who has travelled a great deal in Europe, and is 
 
 1 Don A- C- de la B-, Envoy Extraordinary and 
 
 Minister Plenipotentiary from H. C. M. ; and his Lady, Dona 
 
 F-E-C-de la B-; Inform you of their arrival in 
 
 this Capital, and put themselves at your disposal, in the street of 
 Buenavista — No 2. 
 
128 
 
 DRESSES. 
 
 very distinguished for talents and information. She 
 has the Grand Cross of Maria Louisa of Spain, is of 
 a noble Venetian family, and Aunt to the Duke of 
 Canizzaro. Her dress was a very rich black Genoa 
 velvet, black blonde mantilla, and a very splendid 
 parure of diamonds. She seems in exceedingly 
 delicate health. She and her contemporaries are 
 fast fading away, the last records of the days of Vice¬ 
 royalty. In their place a new race have started up, 
 whose manners and appearance have little of the 
 vieille cour about them ; chiefly, it is said, wives of 
 military men, sprung from the hot-beds of the Revo¬ 
 lutions, ignorant and full of pretension as parvenus 
 who have risen by chance and not by merit, must be. 
 I continue my list after the fashion of the Court 
 Journal. 
 
 Countess de S-o. Under dress of rich violet 
 
 satin, gown of black blonde, mantilla of black blonde, 
 diamond ear-rings, five or six large diamond brooches 
 fastening the mantilla, necklace of large pearls and 
 
 diamond sevigne. The Senora S-. Dress of 
 
 white satin, gown of white blonde, white blonde 
 mantilla, pearls, diamonds, and white satin shoes. 
 
 Madame S-r, black velvet dress, white blonde 
 
 mantilla, pearls, diamonds, short sleeves and white 
 
 satin shoes. The Senora de A-d. Fawn-colored 
 
 satin dress, black blonde mantilla, diamonds, and 
 black satin shoes. 
 
 The Senora B-a, the wife of a General, ex¬ 
 
 tremely rich, and who has the handsomest house in 
 Mexico. Dress of purple velvet, embroidered all 
 over with flowers of white silk, short sleeves, and 
 
DRESSES. 
 
 129 
 
 embroidered corsage ; white satin shoes and has a 
 jour ; a deep flounce of Mechlin appearing below the 
 velvet dress, which was short. A mantilla of black 
 blonde, fastened by three diamond aigrettes. Dia¬ 
 mond ear-rings of extraordinary size. A diamond 
 necklace of immense value, and beautifully set. A 
 necklace of pear pearls, valued at twenty thousand 
 dollars. A diamond sevigne. A gold chain going 
 three times round the neck, and touching the knees. 
 On every finger two diamond rings, like little 
 watches. As no other dress was equally magnifi¬ 
 cent, with her I conclude my description, only ob¬ 
 serving that no Mexican lady has yet paid me her 
 first morning visit without diamonds. They have 
 few opportunities for displaying their jewels, so that 
 were it not on the occasion of some such morning 
 visit of etiquette, the diamonds would lie in their 
 cases, wasting their serene rays in darkness. 
 
 Last night an attempt was made to break into the 
 house, but our fine little bull-dog Hercules, a present 
 
 from Senor A-d, kept his ground so well, and 
 
 barked so furiously, that the servants were awakened, 
 even the porter, the soundest slumberer amongst 
 them ; and the robbers escaped without doing 
 further mischief than inflicting a severe wound on 
 the poor animal’s paw, which has made him for the 
 present quite lame. 
 
 Apropos to which matters, a most cruel murder, of 
 which I have just been hearing the particulars, was 
 committed not very long ago, in this neighborhood, 
 
 upon Mr. M-, the Swiss Consul. He was also a 
 
 leather-merchant, and one morning having sent out 
 
130 
 
 MURDER. 
 
 his porter on some commission, a carriage drove up 
 to the door, and three gentlemen presented them¬ 
 selves to Mr. M-, requesting to speak to him on 
 
 business. He begged them to walk in ; and there 
 entered a general in uniform, a younger officer, and 
 
 a monk. Mr. M-requested to be informed of their 
 
 business, when suddenly the general, seizing hold of 
 him, whilst the others went to secure the door, 
 exclaimed, “ we have not come to hear about your 
 goods, we want your money.” The poor man, 
 astounded at perceiving the nature of his customers, 
 assured them he kept, but little money in the house, 
 but proceeded instantly to open his private drawers, 
 and empty their contents, amounting, in fact, to a 
 trifle of some few hundred dollars. Finding that he 
 had indeed no more to give them, they prepared to 
 depart, when the monk said, “ we must kill him, or 
 he will recognise us.” “ No,” said the officers, 
 “ Leave him, and come along. There is no danger.” 
 “ Go on,” said the monk, “ I follow ;” and, turning 
 back, stabbed the Consul to the heart. The three 
 then reentered the carriage, and drove off at full 
 speed. A few minutes afterwards the porter return¬ 
 ing, found his master bathed in blood, and rushing 
 out to a neighboring gambling-house, gave the 
 alarm. Several gentlemen ran to his assistance, 
 but he died an hour after, having given all the parti¬ 
 culars of the dress and appearance of his murderers, 
 and that of their carriage. By these tokens they 
 were soon afterwards discovered, and, by the energy of 
 
 the Governor, then Count C-a, they were arrested 
 
 and hanged upon the trees in front of our house, 
 
ZEAL. 
 
 131 
 
 together with a real Mexican Colonel, who had kindly- 
 lent the ruffians his carriage for the occasion. It is 
 seldom that crime here meets with so prompt a 
 punishment. 
 
 Our friend, Count C-a, when Governor of 
 
 Mexico, was celebrated for his energy in “ elpersigui- 
 miento de los ladrones ,” (persecuting the robbers,) as 
 it is called. It is said that upon one occasion his 
 zeal carried him rather far. Various robberies 
 having been committed in the city, he had received 
 a hint from the government, that the escape of the 
 perpetrators was considered by them as a proof that 
 he had grown lukewarm in the public service. A 
 few days afterwards, riding in the streets, he per¬ 
 ceived a notorious robber, who, the moment he 
 observed himself recognised, darted down another 
 street with the swiftness of an arrow. The Governor 
 pursued him on horseback ; the robber made all 
 speed towards the Square, and rushed into the 
 sanctuary of the Cathedral. The Count galloped 
 in after him, and dragged him from his place of refuge 
 near the altar. This violation of the church’s 
 sanctity was, of course, severely reprimanded, but, 
 as the Governor remarked, they could no longer 
 accuse him of want of zeal in the discharge of his 
 duty. 
 
 He took as his porter the captain of a gang of 
 robbers, ordering him to stand at the door, and to 
 seize any of his former acquaintances who might 
 pass, his own pardon depending on his conduct in 
 this respect. Riding out one day to his country 
 place, with his lady, this man accompanying them as 
 
132 
 
 LA GUERA. 
 
 a servant, they were overtaken by a messenger, who 
 desired the return of the Count to the city, upon 
 some urgent and important business. It was already 
 dusk, yet the Count, trusting to the honor of the 
 robber, ordered him to conduct his lady to the Haci¬ 
 enda, and she alone on horseback, with this alarming 
 guide, performed her journey in safety. 
 
 Before I conclude this letter, I must tell you that I 
 received a visit this morning from a very remarkable 
 character, well known here by the name of La 
 Gilcra (the fair) Rodriguez, said to have been many 
 years ago celebrated by Humboldt as the most beautiful 
 woman he had seen in the whole course of his travels. 
 Considering the lapse of time which has passed since 
 that distinguished traveller visited these parts, I was 
 almost astonished when her card was sent up with a 
 request for admission, and still more so to find that 
 in spite of years and of the furrows which it pleases 
 Time to plough in the loveliest faces, La Giiera re¬ 
 tains a profusion of fair curls without one gray hair, 
 a set of beautiful white teeth, very fine eyes, and 
 great vivacity. 
 
 Her sister, the Marquesa de Juluapa, lately dead, 
 is said to have been also a woman of great talent 
 and extraordinary conversational powers; she is 
 another of the ancient noblesse who has dropped off. 
 The physician who attended her in her last illness, a 
 Frenchman of the name of Plan, in great repute here, 
 has sent in a bill to her executors of ten thousand 
 dollars, which, although it does not excite any great 
 astonishment, the family refuse to pay, and there is a 
 lawsuit in consequence. The extortions of medical 
 
M. D£ HUMBOLDT. 
 
 133 
 
 men in Mexico, especially of foreign physicians, have 
 arrived at such a height, that a person of moderate 
 fortune must hesitate before putting himself into their 
 hands . 1 A rich old lady in delicate health, and with 
 no particular complaint, is a surer fund for them than 
 a silver mine. 
 
 I found La Giiera very agreeable, and a perfect 
 living chronicle. She is married to her third hus¬ 
 band, and had three daughters, all celebrated beau¬ 
 ties ; the Countess de Regia, who died in New York, 
 and was buried in the cathedral there ; the Marquesa 
 de Guadalupe, also dead, and the Marquesa de 
 
 A-a, now a handsome widow. We spoke of 
 
 Humboldt, and talking of herself as of a third person, 
 she related to me all the particulars of his first visit, 
 and his admiration of her ; that she was then very 
 young, though married, and the mother of two child¬ 
 ren, and that when he came to visit her mother, she 
 was sitting sewing in a corner where the Baron did 
 not perceive her; until talking very earnestly on the 
 subject of cochineal, he inquired if he could visit a 
 certain district where there was a plantation of nopals. 
 “ To be sure,” said La Giiera from her corner ; “ we 
 can take M. de Humboldt therewhereupon he 
 first perceiving her, stood amazed, and at length ex¬ 
 claimed, “ Valgame Dios ! who is that girl ?” After¬ 
 wards he was constantly with her, and more captiva- 
 
 1 Tlie Mexican Government has since taken this matter into 
 consideration, and is making regulations which render it neces¬ 
 sary for a medical man to possess a certain degree of knowledge, 
 and to have resided a specified time in the city before he is per¬ 
 mitted to practise ; they are also occupied in fixing a certain sum 
 for medical attendance. 
 
 VOL. i. 12 
 
134 
 
 ANECDOTE. 
 
 ted it is said by her wit than by her beauty ; consid¬ 
 ering her a sort of western Madame de Stael; all 
 which leads me to suspect that the grave traveller 
 was considerably under the influence of her fascina¬ 
 tions, and that neither mines nor mountains, geogra¬ 
 phy nor ge.ology, petrified shells nor alpenkalkstein, 
 had occupied him to the exclusion of a slight stratum 
 of flirtation. It is a comfort to think that “ some¬ 
 times even the great Humboldt nods.” 
 
 One of La Guera’s stories is too original to be lost. 
 A lady of high rank having died in Mexico, her rela¬ 
 tives undertook to commit her to her last resting- 
 place, habited according to the then prevailing fash¬ 
 ion, in her mos.t magnificent dress, that which she 
 had worn-at her wedding. This dress was a wonder 
 of luxury, even in Mexico. It was entirely composed 
 of the finest lace, and the flounces were made of a 
 species of point which cost fifty dollars a vara, (the 
 Mexican yard.) Its equal was unknown. It was 
 also ornamented and looped up at certain intervals 
 with bows of ribbon very richly embroidered in gold. 
 
 In this dress, the Condesa de-was laid in her 
 
 coffin, thousands of dear friends crowding to view her 
 beautiful costume de mart, and at length she was 
 placed in her tomb, the key of which was entrusted 
 to the sacristan. 
 
 From the tomb to the opera is a very abrupt tran¬ 
 sition ; nevertheless, both have a share in this story. 
 A company of French dancers appeared in Mexico, 
 a twentieth-rate ballet, and the chief danseuse was a 
 little French damsel, remarkable for the shortness of 
 her robes, her coquetry, and her astonishing pirou- 
 
ANECDOTE. 
 
 135 
 
 ettes. On the flight of a favorite ballet, Mademoi¬ 
 selle Pauline made her entree in a succession of 
 pirouettes, and poising on her toe, looked round for 
 approbation, when a sudden thrill of horror, accom¬ 
 panied by a murmur of indignation, pervaded the 
 assembly. Mademoiselle Pauline was equipped in 
 the very dress in which the defunct countess had been 
 buried ! Lace, point flounces, gold ribbons ; impos¬ 
 sible to mistake it. Hardly had the curtain dropped, 
 when the little danseuse found herself surrounded by 
 competent authorities, questioning her as to where 
 and how she had obtained her dress. She replied 
 that she had bought it at an extravagant price from a 
 French modiste in the city. She had rifled no tomb, 
 but honestly paid down golden ounces, in exchange 
 for her lawful property. To the modiste’s went the 
 officers of justice. She also pleaded innocent. She 
 had bought it of a man who had brought it to her for 
 sale, and had paid him much more than a poids d’&r , 
 as indeed it was worth. By dint of further investi¬ 
 gation, the man was identified, and proved to be the 
 sacristan of San ——. . Short-sighted sacristan ! 
 He was arrested and thrown into prison, and one 
 benefit resulted from his cupidity, since in order to 
 avoid throwing temptation in the way of future sa¬ 
 cristans, it became the custom, after the body had 
 lain in state for some time in magnificent robes, to 
 substitute a plain dress previous to placing the coffin 
 in the vault. A poor vanity after all. 
 
 I was told by a lady here, that on the death of her 
 grandchild, he was not only enveloped in rich lace, 
 but the diamonds of three Condesas and four Mar- 
 
136 
 
 OLD CUSTOM. 
 
 quesas were collected together and put on him, 
 necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches and tiaras, to 
 the value of several hundred thousand dollars. The 
 street was hung with draperies, and a band of music 
 played, whilst he was visited by all the titled rela¬ 
 tives of the family in his dead splendor, poor little 
 baby ! Yet his mother mourned for him as for all 
 her blighted hopes, and the last scion of a noble 
 house. Grief shows itself in different ways ; yet one 
 might think that when it seeks consolation in display, 
 it must be less profound than when it shuns it. 
 
LETTER THE TENTH. 
 
 San Fernando — House of Perez de Galvez — A removal—Size 
 of the Houses—Old Monastery — View by Sunset —Evening 
 Visits — Mexican Etiquette —- A Night-view from the Azotea 
 
 — Tacubaya — Magueys—Making of Pulque — Organos and 
 
 Nopal — Environs of Mexico — Miracle—Hacienda—View 
 from the Countess C-a’s House — Arzobispado — Anecdote 
 
 — Comparative view of Beauty—-Indians—Rancheritas — 
 Mexican Cordiality — Masses for the Dead—San Augustin — 
 Form of Invitation — Death of a Senator — A Mistake. 
 
 San Fernando, 25th February. 
 
 We have been engaged for some time past in the 
 disagreeable occupations, first of finding, then of fur¬ 
 nishing, and lastly of entering into a new house. 
 We were very anxious to hire that of the Marquesa 
 de Juluapa, which is pretty, well situated, and has a 
 garden ; but the agent, after making us wait for his de¬ 
 cision more than a fortnight, informed us that he had 
 determined to sell it. House-rent is extremely high; 
 nothing tolerable to be had under two thousand five 
 hundred dollars per annum, unfurnished. There is 
 also an extraordinary custom of paying a sum called 
 traspaso, sometimes to the amount of fourteen thou¬ 
 sand dollars, taking your chance of having the money 
 repaid you by the next person who takes the house. 
 We next endeavored to procure a house not far from 
 our present residence, a palace in fact, which I men¬ 
 tioned to you before as having been occupied at one 
 12* 
 
138 
 
 HOUSES. 
 
 time by Santa Anna, and at another by the English 
 Legation, but the present proprietor cannot be pre¬ 
 vailed upon to let it. It has a beautiful garden and 
 olive ground, but is not a very secure abode, except 
 with a guard of soldiers. We at length came to the 
 determination of taking up our quarters here. It is 
 
 a handsome new house, built by General G-, and 
 
 has the fault of being only too large. Built in a 
 square, like all Mexican houses, the ground floor, 
 which has a stone-paved court, with a fountain in the 
 middle, contains about twenty rooms, besides out¬ 
 houses, coach-house, stables, pigeon-house, garden- 
 house, &c. The second story, where the principal 
 apartments are, the first floor being chiefly occupied 
 by servants, has the same number of rooms, with 
 coal-room, wood-room, bath-room, and water every¬ 
 where, in the court below, in the garden, and on the 
 azotea, which is very spacious, and where, were the 
 house our own, we might build a mirador, and other¬ 
 wise ornament it; but to build for another is too 
 heroic. The great defect in all these houses is their 
 want of finish ; the great doors that will not shut 
 properly, and the great windows down to the ground, 
 which in the rainy season will certainly admit water; 
 making these residences appear something like a 
 cross-breed between a palace and a barn; the splen¬ 
 dor of the one, the discomfort of the other. I will 
 not inflict upon you the details of all our petty an¬ 
 noyances caused by procrastinating tradesmen. Suf¬ 
 fice it to say, that the Mexican mahana (to-morrow) 
 if properly translated, means never. As to prices, I 
 conclude we pay for being foreigners and diplomates, 
 
SUNSET. 
 
 139 
 
 and will not believe in a first experience. However, 
 we are settled at last, and find the air here much 
 purer than in the heart of the city, while the mala¬ 
 dies and epidemics so common there, are here almost 
 unknown. Behind this house is a very small garden, 
 bounded on one side by the great wall which en¬ 
 closes the orchard of the old monastery of San Fer¬ 
 nando ; within whose vast precincts only seven or 
 eight monks now linger. It is an immense building, 
 old and gray and time-worn, with church adjoining, 
 and spacious lands appertaining to it. At all times 
 it is picturesque, but by moonlight or sunset, it forms 
 a most olden-time vision. 
 
 At that hour, standing alone in the high-walled 
 garden, when the convent bells are tolling, and the 
 convent itself, with its iron-barred, gothic windows, 
 and its gray-green olive trees that look so unreal and 
 lifeless, is tinged by the last rays of the sun, the 
 whole seems like a vision, or a half-remembered 
 sketch, or a memory of romance. 
 
 Then the sun sets behind the snow-crowned moun¬ 
 tains with a bright fiery red, covering their majestic 
 sides with a rosy glow, while great black clouds come 
 sailing along like the wings of night; and then is 
 the hour for remembering that this is Mexico, and in 
 spite of all the evils that have fallen over it, the 
 memory of the romantic past hovers there still. But 
 the dark clouds sail on, and envelop the crimson tints 
 yet lingering and blushing on the lofty mountains, 
 and like monstrous night-birds brood there in silent 
 watch, and gradually the whole landscape; — moun¬ 
 tains and sky, convent and olive trees, look gray 
 
140 
 
 COMPLIMENTS. 
 
 and sad, and seem to melt away in the dim twi¬ 
 light. 
 
 Then the bright moon rises, and flings her silver 
 veil over the mountains, and lights up the plains, 
 glittering and quivering upon the old gray stones, 
 and a sound of military music is heard in the dis¬ 
 tance, far and faint. And all the bells are tolling; 
 from old San Fernando that repeats himself like a 
 sexagenarian ; from the towers of the cathedral, from 
 many a distant church and convent; and above the 
 rumbling of carriages and the hum of the city, are 
 heard the notes of a hymn, now rising, now falling 
 on the ear, as a religious procession passes along to 
 some neighboring temple. But it grows late — a 
 carriage enters the court-yard — a visit. There is 
 no romance here. Men and women are the same 
 everywhere, whether enveloped in the graceful man¬ 
 tilla, or wearing Herbault’s last, whether wrapt in 
 Spanish cloak, or Mexican sarape, or Scottish plaid. 
 The manners of the ladies here are extremely kind, 
 but Spanish etiquette and compliments are beyond 
 measure tiresome. After having embraced each lady 
 who enters, according to the fashion, which after all 
 seems cordial to say the least of it, and seated the 
 lady of most consequence on the right side of the 
 sofa, a point of great importance, the following dia¬ 
 logue is de rigueur. “ How are you ? Are you 
 well ? ” “ At your service, and you ? ” “ Without 
 
 novelty, (sin novedad) at your service.” “ I am 
 rejoiced, and how are you, Sehora - ?” “At your 
 disposal, and you ? ” “ A thousand thanks, and the 
 
 Sehor? ” “ At your service, without novelty,” &c., 
 
COMPLIMENTS. 
 
 141 
 
 &c., &c., besides, before sitting down, there is “ Pray 
 be seated.” “Pass first, Senorita.” “No, madam, 
 pray pass first.” “ Vaya, well, to oblige you, with¬ 
 out further ceremony ; I dislike compliments and eti¬ 
 quette.” And it is a fact that there is no real eti¬ 
 quette, but the most perfect laissez aller in the world. 
 All these are mere words, tokens of good will. If it 
 is in the morning, there is the additional question of 
 “ How have you passed the night ? ” And the an¬ 
 swer, “ In your service.” Even in Mexico, the 
 weather affords a legitimate opening for a conversa¬ 
 tional battery, but this chiefly when it rains or looks 
 dull, which, occasioning surprise, gives rise to obser¬ 
 vation. Besides, a slight change in the degree of 
 heat or cold which we would not observe, they com¬ 
 ment upon. 
 
 The visit over, the ladies reembrace, the lady of 
 the house following her guests to the top of the stair¬ 
 case, and again compliments are given and received. 
 “ Madam, you know that my house is at your dis¬ 
 posal.” “ A thousand thanks, madam. Mine is at 
 your’s, and though useless, know me for your ser¬ 
 vant, and command me in everything that you may 
 desire.” “ Adieu, 1 hope you may pass a good 
 night,” &c. &c. &c. At the bottom of the first land¬ 
 ing-place, the visiters again turn round to catch the 
 eye of the lady of the house, and the adieus are re¬ 
 peated. All this, which struck me at first, already 
 appears quite natural, and would scarce be worth 
 mentioning, but as affording a contrast to our slight 
 and indifferent manner of receiving and taking leave 
 of our guests. All the ladies address each other, 
 
142 
 
 MOONLIGHT VIEW. 
 
 and are addressed by gentlemen, by their Christian 
 names, and those who have paid me more than one 
 or two visits, use the same familiar mode of address 
 to me. Amongst women I rather like this, but it 
 somewhat startles my ideas of the fitness of things 
 to hear a young man address a married woman, as 
 Maria, Antonia, Anita, &c. However, things must 
 be taken as they are meant, and as no familiarity is 
 intended, none should be supposed. 
 
 But these visiters are gone, and into the open 
 court the consolatory moon is shining. All clouds 
 have passed away, and the blue of the sky is so blue, 
 as to dazzle the eyes even in the moonlight. Each 
 star shines out, bright, golden and distinct, and it 
 seems a sin to sleep, and to lose so lovely a night. 
 .... But for a true night view, mount upon the 
 Azotea, and see all Mexico sleeping at your feet; 
 the whole valley and the city itself floating in moon¬ 
 light ; the blue vault above gemmed with stars, and 
 the mountains all bathed in silver, the white volca¬ 
 noes seeming to join earth and sky. Here, even 
 Salvator’s genius would fail. We must evoke the 
 ghost of Byron. The pencil can do nothing. Poet¬ 
 ry alone might give a faint idea of a scene so won- 
 drously beautiful. 
 
 2 6th. — We went yesterday with Mr. M-, his 
 
 wife and daughter and a padre to visit the Archbish¬ 
 op’s palace at Tacubaya, a pretty village about four 
 miles from Mexico, and a favorite ride of ours in the 
 morning. The country round Mexico, if not always 
 beautiful, has the merit of being original, and on the 
 road to Tacubaya, which goes by Chapultepec, you 
 
THE MAGUEY. 
 
 143 
 
 pass large tracts of country, almost entirely unculti¬ 
 vated, though so near the city, or covered by the 
 mighty maguey plant, the American agave, which 
 will flourish on the most arid soil, and like a fountain 
 in a desert place, furnishes the poorest Indian with 
 the beverage most grateful to his palate. It seems 
 to be to them what the reindeer is to the Esqui¬ 
 maux, fitted by nature to supply all his wants. The 
 maguey and its produce pulque were known to the 
 Indians in the most ancient times, and the primitive 
 Aztecs may have become as intoxicated on their 
 favorite octli, as they called it, as the modern Mexi¬ 
 cans do on their beloved pulque. 
 
 It is not often that we see the superb flower with 
 its colossal stem, for the plant that is in blossom is a 
 useless beauty. The moment the experienced Indian 
 becomes aware that his maguey is about to flower, he 
 cuts out the heart, covers it over with the side leaves 
 of the plant, and all the juice which should have 
 gone to the great stem of the flower, runs into the 
 empty basin thus formed, into which the Indian, thrice 
 a-day, and during several months in succession, in¬ 
 serts his acojote or gourd, a kind of syphon, and 
 applying his mouth to the other end, draws off the 
 liquor by suction ; a curious-looking process. First it 
 is called honey-water, and is sweet and scentless ; 
 but easily ferments when transferred to the skins or 
 earthen vases where it is kept. To assist in its fer¬ 
 mentation, however, a little old pulque, Madre pulque, 
 as it is called, which has fermented for many days, is 
 added to it, and in twenty-four hours after it leaves 
 the plant, you may imbibe it in all its perfection. It 
 
144 
 
 PULQUE. 
 
 is said to be the most wholesome drink in the world, 
 and remarkably agreeable when one has overcome 
 the first shock occasioned by its rancid odor. At all 
 events, the maguey is a source of unfailing profit, the 
 consumption of pulque being enormous, so that many 
 of the richest families in the capital owe their fortune 
 entirely to the produce of their magueys. When the 
 owners do not make the pulque themselves, they 
 frequently sell their plants to the Indians ; and a 
 maguey, which costs a real when first planted, will, 
 when ready to be cut, sell for twelve or eighteen 
 dollars ; a tolerable profit, considering that it grows 
 in almost any soil, requires little manure, and, unlike 
 the vine, no very special or periodical care. They are 
 planted in rows, like hedges, and though the indivi¬ 
 dual plant is handsome, the general effect is monoto¬ 
 nous. Of the fibres is made an excellent strong 
 thread called pita, of which pita they make a strong 
 brownish paper, and might make cloth if they pleased. 
 There is, however, little improvement made by the 
 Mexicans upon the ingenuity of their Indian ances¬ 
 tors, in respect to the maguey. Upon paper made of 
 its fibres, the ancient Mexicans painted their hiero- 
 glyphical figures. The strong and pointed thorns 
 which terminate the gigantic leaves, they used as nails 
 and pins ; and amongst the abuses, not the uses of 
 these, the ancient sanguinary priests were in the habit 
 of piercing their breasts and tearing their arms with 
 them, in acts of expiation. Besides, there is a very 
 strong brandy distilled from pulque, which has the 
 advantage of producing intoxication in an infinitely 
 shorter period 
 
ARBOL DE PERU. 
 
 145 
 
 Together with the maguey, grows another immense 
 production of nature, the organos, which resembles 
 the barrels or pipes of an organ, and being covered 
 with prickles, the plants growing close together, and 
 about six feet high, makes the strongest natural fence 
 imaginable, besides being covered with beautiful 
 flowers. There is also another species of cactus, 
 the nopal which bears the tuna, a most refreshing 
 fruit, but not ripe at this season. The plant looks 
 like a series of flat green pincushions fastened to¬ 
 gether, and stuck full of diminutive needles. 
 
 But though the environs of Mexico are flat, though 
 there are few trees, little cultivation, uninhabited 
 haciendas and ruined churches in all directions, still, 
 with its beautiful climate and ever-smiling sky, the 
 profusion of roses and sweet-pease in the deserted 
 gardens, the occasional clumps of fine trees, particu¬ 
 larly the graceful Arbol de Peru (schinum molle, the 
 Peruvian pepper-tree), its bending branches loaded 
 with bunches of coral-colored berries, the old orchards 
 with their blossoming fruit-trees, the conviction that 
 everything necessary for the use of man can be pro¬ 
 duced with scarcely any labor, all contributes to ren¬ 
 der the landscape one which it is impossible to pass 
 through with indifference. 
 
 A magnificent ash tree (the Mexican fresno ), the 
 pride of Tacubaya, which throws out its luxuriant 
 branches, covering a large space of ground, was pointed 
 out to us as having a tradition attached to it. It had 
 nearly withered away, when the Ylustrisimo Sehor 
 Fonti, the last of the Spanish Archbishops, gave it 
 his solemn benediction, and prayed that its vigor 
 13 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
146 
 
 TACUBAYA. 
 
 might be restored. Heaven heard his prayer; new 
 buds instantly shot forth, and the tree has since con¬ 
 tinued to thrive luxuriantly. 
 
 Tacubaya is a scattered village, containing some 
 pretty country-houses and some old gardens with 
 stone fountains. The word country-house must not, 
 however, be understood in the English acceptation of 
 the word. The house, which is in fact merely used 
 as an occasional retreat during the summer months, 
 is generally a large empty building, with innumerable 
 lofty rooms, communicating with each other, and con¬ 
 taining the scantiest possible supply of furniture. One 
 room will have in it a deal table and a few chairs; 
 you will then pass through live or six quite empty; 
 then you will arrive at two or three, with green painted 
 bedsteads and a bench ; the walls bare, or ornamented 
 with a few old pictures of Saints and Virgins, and bare 
 floors ornamented with nothing. To this add a kitchen 
 and out-houses, a garden running to waste and over¬ 
 running with flowers, with stiff’stone walks and a foun¬ 
 tain in the middle, an orchard and an olive-ground ; 
 such are most of the haciendas that I have yet seen. 
 
 That of the Countess C-a, which seems to be the 
 
 handsomest in Tacubaya, is remarkable for com¬ 
 manding from its windows one of the most beautiful 
 views imaginable of Mexico, the volcanoes and Cha- 
 pultepec. From her azotea there is also a splendid 
 view of the whole valley ; and as her garden is in 
 good order, that she has an excellent billiard-table, a 
 piano, but above all, a most agreeable society in her 
 own family, and that her house is the very centre of 
 hospitality, one may certainly spend many pleasant 
 
ARZOBISPADO. 
 
 147 
 
 hours there, without regretting the absence of the 
 luxurious furniture, which, in Mexico, seems entirely 
 confined to the town houses. The Countess herself 
 assured us that she had twice completely furnished 
 her house, but as, in two revolutions, everything was 
 thrown out of the windows and destroyed, she was 
 resolved in future to confine herself to le stride ne- 
 cessaire. 
 
 We went to see a house and garden which has 
 fallen, in chance succession, to a poor woman, who, 
 not being able to occupy her unexpected inheritance, 
 is desirous of selling it. The garden and grounds 
 are a deserted wilderness of sweets. We were joined 
 by several monks from a neighboring convent, and 
 with them went to visit the Archbishop’s Palace. 
 Chemin faisant, the padre informed us that he was 
 formerly a merchant, a married man, and a friend of 
 Yturbide’s. He failed, his wife died, his friend was 
 shot, and he joined a small community of priests who 
 live retired in the convent of La Profesa, which, 
 with its church, is one of the richest in Mexico. 
 
 The Arzobispado is a large, handsome, but deserted 
 building, commanding the same fine view as from 
 the house of the Countess, and with a garden and 
 fine olive-ground, of which the trees were brought 
 from Europe. The garden was filled with large 
 double pink roses, and bunches of the mille-fleur- 
 rose, which are disposed in arches, a favorite custom 
 here, also with a profusion of sweet pease and jessa¬ 
 mine, and a few orange trees. The gardener gave 
 us some beautiful bouquets, and we lingered here till 
 sunset, admiring the view. There is no point from 
 
148 
 
 ROBBERY. 
 
 which Mexico is seen to such advantage. It is even 
 a finer prospect than that from Chapultepec, since it 
 embraces the castle itself, one of the most striking 
 features in the landscape. But just as the sun sunk 
 behind the mountains, a sudden change took place 
 in the weather. The wind rose, great masses of dark 
 clouds came driving over the sky, and the rain fell in 
 torrents, forcing us to make a hasty retreat to our 
 carriages, and having omitted to take any precau¬ 
 tions, and this road not being particularly safe at 
 night, we were probably indebted for our safe return 
 more to “ good luck than good guidance ; ” or, 
 perhaps, we owed it in part to the padre, for the 
 robbers are shy of attacking either soldiers or priests, 
 the first from fear, and the second from awe. 
 
 Talking of robbers and robberies, rather a fertile 
 
 theme of conversation, Senor-told me the other 
 
 day that in the time of a former President, it came 
 to pass, that a certain gentleman went to take his 
 leave at the palace, previous to setting off for Vera 
 Cruz. He was received by the President, who was 
 alone with his aid-de-camp, General-, and men¬ 
 
 tioned to him in confidence that he was about to take a 
 considerable sum of money with him, but that it was 
 so well concealed in the lining of a trunk, which he 
 described, that even if attacked by robbers, it was 
 impossible they should discover it, and that therefore 
 he did not think it necessary to take an escort with 
 him. The next day this confidential gentleman left 
 Mexico, in the diligence. Not far from the gates 
 the coach was attacked, and, strange to say, the 
 robbers singled out the very trunk which contained 
 
WOMEN. 
 
 149 
 
 the money, opened it, ripped up the lining, and hav¬ 
 ing possessed themselves of the sum therein concealed, 
 peaceably departed. It was a singular coincidence, 
 that the captain of the robbers, though somewhat 
 disguised, bore a striking general resemblance to the 
 President’s aid-de-camp ! . . . These coincidences 
 will happen. 
 
 My chief occupation, lately, has consisted in 
 returning visits ; and it is certain, that according to 
 our views of the case, there is too wide a distinction 
 between the full-dress style of toilette adopted by the 
 ladies, when they pay visits, and the undress in which 
 they receive their visiters at home. To this there 
 are some, nay many exceptions, but en masse this is 
 the case. 
 
 On first arriving from the United States, where an 
 ugly woman is a phoenix, one cannot fail to be struck 
 at the first glance with the general absence of beauty 
 in Mexico. It is only by degrees that handsome 
 faces begin to dawn upon us; but, however, it must 
 be remarked, that beauty without color is apt to be 
 less striking and to make less impression on us at 
 first. The brilliant complexion and fine figure of an 
 English woman strike every eye. The beauty of 
 expression and finely chiselled features of a Spaniard 
 steal upon us like a soft moonlight, while a French 
 woman, however plain, has so graceful a manner of 
 saying agreeable things, so charming a tournure, 
 such a piquante way of managing her eyes and even 
 her mouth, that we think her a beauty after half an 
 hour’s acquaintance, and even lose our admiration for 
 the quiet and high-bred, but less graceful Anglaise. 
 
 13* 
 
150 
 
 BEAUTIES AND DEFECTS. 
 
 Tlie beauty of the women here consists in superb 
 black eyes, very fine dark hair, a beautiful arm and 
 hand, and small, well-made feet. Their defects are, 
 that they are frequently too short and too fat, that 
 their teeth are often bad, and their complexion not 
 the clear olive of the Spaniards, nor the glowing 
 brown of the Italians, but a bilious-looking yellow. 
 Their notion of inserting the foot into a shoe half an 
 inch shorter, ruins the foot and destroys their grace 
 in walking, and, consequently, in every movement. 
 This fashion is, fortunately, beginning to fall into 
 disuse; .... It is therefore evident, that when a 
 Mcvicana is endowed with white teeth and a fine 
 complexion, when she has not grown too fat, and 
 when she does not torture her small foot to make 
 
 it smaller, she must be extremely handsome. 
 
 The general carelessness of their dress in the morn¬ 
 ing is, however, another great drawback to beauty. 
 A woman without stays, with uncombed hair and 
 reboso, had need to be very lovely if she retain 
 any attraction at all. This indolence, indeed, is 
 going out of fashion, especially among the younger 
 part of the community, owing, perhaps, to their 
 more frequent intercourse with foreigners, though it 
 will probably be long before the morning at home is 
 not considered a privileged time and place for dis¬ 
 habille. Notwithstanding, I have made many visits 
 where I have found the whole family in a perfect 
 state of order and neatness, but I have observed that 
 there the fathers, and what is more important, the 
 mothers, had travelled in Europe, and established a 
 new order of things on their return. 
 
INDIANS. 
 
 151 
 
 Upon the whole, the handsomest women here are 
 not Mexicans, that is, not born in the capital, but in 
 the provinces. From Puebla, and Jalapa and Vera 
 Cruz we see many distinguished by their brilliant 
 complexions and fine teeth, and who are taller and 
 more graceful than those born in the city of Mexico; 
 precisely as in Spain, where the handsomest women 
 in Madrid are said to be those born out of it. 
 
 The common Indians whom we see every day 
 bringing in their fruit and vegetables to market, are, 
 generally speaking, very plain, with a humble, mild 
 expression of countenance, very gentle, and wonder¬ 
 fully polite in their manners to each other ; but occa¬ 
 sionally, in the lower clases, one sees a face and 
 form so beautiful, that we might suppose such an¬ 
 other was the Indian who enchanted Cortes; with 
 eyes and hair of extraordinary beauty, a complexion 
 dark but glowing, with the Indian beauty of teeth 
 like the driven snow, together with small feet and 
 beautifully-shaped hands and arms, however em¬ 
 browned by sun and toil. In these cases, it is more 
 than probable, that however Indian in her appear¬ 
 ance, there must have been some intermarriages in 
 former days between her progenitors and the de¬ 
 scendants of the conquerors. We also occasionally 
 observe very handsome Rancheritas, wives or daugh¬ 
 ters of the farmers, riding in front of their farm- 
 servants on the same horse, with the white teeth and 
 fine figures which are preserved by the constant ex¬ 
 ercise that country women must perforce take, what¬ 
 ever be their natural indolence; while the early 
 fading of beauty in the higher classes, the decay of 
 
152 
 
 FOOD. 
 
 teetli and the over corpulency so common amongst 
 them, are no doubt the natural consequences of want 
 of exercise and of injudicious food. There is no 
 country in the world where so much animal food is 
 consumed, and there is no country in the world 
 where so little is required. The consumers are not 
 the Indians, who cannot afford it, but the better 
 classes who generally eat meat three times a day. 
 This, with the quantities of chile and sweetmeats, in 
 a climate which every one complains of as being 
 irritating and inflammatory, probably produces those 
 nervous complants which are here so general, and 
 for which constant hot baths are the universal and 
 agreeable remedy. 
 
 In point of amiability and warmth of manner, I 
 have met with no women who can possibly compete 
 with those in Mexico, and it appears to me that wo¬ 
 men of all other countries will appear cold and stiff 
 by comparison. To strangers, this is an unfailing 
 charm, and it is to be hoped that whatever advan¬ 
 tages they may derive from their intercourse with 
 foreigners, they may never lose this graceful cordial¬ 
 ity, which forms so agreeable a contrast with English 
 and American frigidity. . . . 
 
 C-n received an invitation some time ago to 
 
 attend the honras of the daughter of the Marquis of 
 S-a, that is, the celebration of mass for the re¬ 
 pose of her soul. M-was observing to-day, that 
 
 if this Catholic doctrine be firmly believed, and that 
 the prayers of the church are indeed availing to 
 shorten the sufferings of those who have gone before 
 us ; to relieve those whom we love from thousands 
 
MASS FOR THE DEAD. 
 
 153 
 
 of years of torture, it is astonishing how the rich do 
 not become poor, and the poor beggars, in further¬ 
 ance of this object; and that if the idea be purely 
 human, it showed a wonderful knowledge of human 
 nature, on the part of the inventor, as what source of 
 profit could be more sure ? . . . 
 
 Certainly no expense was spared on this occasion. 
 San Augustin, in itself a beautiful church, was fitted 
 up with extraordinary splendor. The walls and pil¬ 
 lars were covered with draperies of rich crimson 
 velvet. Innumerable wax candles were lighted, and 
 an invisible band of music played during the intervals 
 of the deep-rolling organ. All the monks of San 
 Augustin, with their white hoods and sandalled feet, 
 and carrying lighted tapers, were ranged near the 
 altar. All the male relatives of the family, dressed 
 in deep mourning, occupied the high-backed chairs 
 placed along one side of the church, the floor of 
 which was covered with a carpet, on which various 
 veiled and mourning figures were kneeling, whom I 
 joined. The whole service, the chanting, the solemn 
 music, and the prayers, were very impressive, yet 
 more joyous than sad, perhaps from the pervading 
 feeling, that each note, as it rose to heaven, carried 
 some alleviation to the spirit of the young and belov¬ 
 ed one, for whose repose they prayed, and brought 
 her nearer to the gates of the Holy City. 
 
 She was but twenty when she died ; and our first 
 
 house is close to that of the Marquis de S-a, her 
 
 father, so that we were shocked to learn that she had 
 expired on the night of our great serenade, (we, of 
 course, not aware of her illness,) actually to the 
 
154 
 
 MODES OF INVITATION. 
 
 sound of that gay music, and amidst the shouting 
 and clapping of hands of the multitude. When the 
 service was over, the procession passed out, every 
 one kissing the hand of the Bishop as he went along, 
 and we found some difficulty in making our way 
 through the crowds of leperos, who, though not al¬ 
 lowed to enter the church on this occasion, were 
 swarming at the gates. Our carriage, as we return¬ 
 ed home, formed one of a file of at least one hundred. 
 
 We found, on our table, another invitation to a 
 very splendid Mass, which is to be performed in San 
 Francisco, on account of the death of a friend of 
 ours, a senator of distinguished family. The style 
 of these invitations is as follows. A device is en¬ 
 graved on the paper, such as a tomb and cypress, 
 and below is printed : 
 
 “Jose Maria A-, 
 
 Jose G-de la C-a, and Basilio G-, 
 
 brothers and uncle of the 
 
 Senator Don Augustin T-, 
 
 who died on the twenty-eighth of last month, 
 request you to assist at the suffrage of the funeral 
 
 honors, which, by the desire of his wife, Doha J- 
 
 A-, will be celebrated in the church of San 
 
 Francisco on the morning of the eighth of this month 
 of February, 1840, at nine o’clock.” 
 
 Beside this invitation, was a piece of information 
 of a different description : 
 
 “ General A--and Anna R-beg to inform 
 
 you, that they have contracted matrimony, and have 
 the honor of offering themselves to your disposal. 
 
 “ M-Street, No. 24. Mexico, 1840.” 
 
A BLUNDER. 
 
 155 
 
 Here, as in Spain, a lady, after her marriage, re¬ 
 tains her maiden name ; and though she adds to it 
 that of her husband, she is more commonly known 
 by her own. 
 
 From ignorance of another Mexican custom, I 
 made rather an awkward blunder the other day, 
 though I must observe, in my justification, that I had 
 lately been in all the agonies of searching for ser¬ 
 vants, and had just filled all the necessary depart¬ 
 ments pretty much to my satisfaction. Therefore, 
 
 when the porter of the Senora de-brought me 
 
 the compliments of his mistress, and that she begged 
 to inform me that she had another servant at my 
 disposal, (otra criada a mi disposicion,) I returned 
 for answer, that I was greatly obliged, but had just 
 hired a recamerera, (chambermaid). At this the 
 man, stupid as he was, opened his great eyes with a 
 slight expression of wonder. Fortunately, as he was 
 turning away, I bethought me of inquiring after the 
 Senora’s health, and his reply, that “ she and the 
 baby were coming on very well,” brought the truth 
 suddenly before me, that the message was merely 
 the etiquette used on informing the friends of the 
 family of the birth of a child ; a conviction which in¬ 
 duced me slightly to alter the style of my answer. 
 Exjierientia docet! 
 
LETTER THE ELEVENTH. 
 
 Calle de Tacuba— The Leap of Alvarado — The “ Noche Triste.” 
 
 — Sale of a Curate’s Goods—Padre Leon — Leprosy — Pic¬ 
 tures— The Annunciation—The Alameda — Paseo de Buca- 
 relli — The Viga— Indians in canoes — A Murder—A Coun¬ 
 try F<lte — Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino — The Jota Arragonesa 
 
 — Old Soldiers. 
 
 The street in which we live forms part of the Calle 
 de Tacuba, the ancient Tlacopan, one of the great 
 causeways by which ancient Mexico communicated 
 with the continent. The other two were Tepeyayac 
 (now Guadalupe) and Iztapalapan, by which last, 
 the Mexican Emperor and his nobles went out to re¬ 
 ceive Cortes on his entrance to Tenochtitlan. The 
 ancient city was divided into four districts, and this 
 division is still preserved, with a change from the In¬ 
 dian names to those of San Pablo, San Sebastian, 
 San Juan, and Santa Maria. The streets run in the 
 same direction as they did in former times. The 
 same street frequently changes its name in each di¬ 
 vision, and this part of the Calle de Tacuba, is occa¬ 
 sionally called the “ Plazuela del Sopilote,” £< San 
 Fernando,” and the “ Puente de Alvarado,” which 
 is the more classic of the three, as celebrating the 
 valor of a hero ; while a ditch, crossed by a small 
 bridge near this, still retains the name of “ el Salto 
 de Alvarado,” in memory of the famous leap given 
 
NOCHE TRISTE. 
 
 157 
 
 C( 
 
 JJ 
 
 by the valiant Spaniard, “ Pedro de Alvarado,” on 
 the memorable night called the “ noche triste ,” of the 
 1st of July, 1520, when the Spaniards were forced 
 to retreat from Mexico to the mountains of Tepeya- 
 yac. 
 
 On that “ sad night,” the rain falling in torrents, 
 the moon and the stars refusing their light, the sky 
 covered with thick clouds, Cortes commanded the 
 silent march of his troops. Sandoval, the uncon¬ 
 querable captain, led his van-guard, and the stern hero 
 Pedro de Alvarado, brought up the rear. A bridge 
 of wood was carried by forty soldiers, to enable the 
 troops to pass the ditches or canals, which must 
 otherwise have impeded their retreat. It is said that 
 in choosing the night for this march, Cortes was 
 guided by the counsels of an astrologer. 
 
 Be that as it may, the first canal was happily 
 passed by means of the portable bridge. The sen¬ 
 tinels who guarded that point were overcome ; but 
 the noise of the struggle attracted the attention of 
 the vigilant priests, who in the silence of the night 
 were keeping watch in the temple. They blew the 
 holy trumpets, cried to arms, and awakened the 
 startled inhabitants from their slumbers. 
 
 In a moment the Spaniards were surrounded, by 
 water and by land. At the second canal, which they 
 had already reached, the combat was terrible. All 
 was confusion, wounds, groans and death, and the 
 canal became so choked with dead bodies, that the 
 rear guard passed over them as over a bridge. We 
 are told that Cortes himself swam more than once 
 over the canal, regardless of danger, cheering on his 
 14 
 
 VOL I, 
 
158 
 
 ALVARADO. 
 
 men, giving out his orders, every blow aimed in the 
 direction of his voice, yet cool and intrepid as ever, 
 in the midst of all the clamor and confusion and 
 darkness. But arrived at the third canal, Alvarado 
 finding himself alone, and surrounded by furious 
 enemies, against whom it was in vain for his single 
 arm to contend, fixed his lance in the bottom of the 
 canal, and leaning against it, gave one spring to the 
 opposite shore. 
 
 An Aztec author and contemporary of Cortes, 
 says that when the Indians beheld this marvellous 
 leap, and that their enemy was safe, they bit the 
 dust, “ comieron tierra ; ” and that the children of 
 Alvarado, who was ever after known as “ Alvarado 
 of the leap,” proved in the course of a law-suit be¬ 
 fore the judges of Tezcuco, by competent witnesses, 
 the truth of this prowess of their father. 
 
 In a hitherto unpublished manuscript which has 
 come to light this year in an Annual called the 
 “ Mosaico Mexicano,” there are some curious partic¬ 
 ulars concerning the “ nochc triste.” It is said that 
 the alarm was given by an old woman who kept a 
 stall, and mention is made of the extraordinary valor 
 of a lady called Maria de Estrada, who performed 
 marvellous deeds with her sword, and who was after¬ 
 wards married to Don Pedro Sanchez Farfan. It is 
 also said, that when the Indians beheld the leap, they 
 called out, “ Truly this man is the offspring of the 
 sun; ” and that this manner of tearing up the 
 ground, and eating earth by handfuls, was a common 
 Indian mode of expressing admiration. However, 
 Mexico is so rich in traditions, that when I particu- 
 
LEPROSY. 
 
 159 
 
 larize this one, it is only because we live on the site 
 where the event took place. . . . 
 
 We went a few days ago to see some effects which 
 are for sale, belonging to a Cura who died lately, 
 having heard that he has left some good paintings 
 amongst them. We went in the evening, and found 
 no one but the agent, an individual in the Daniel 
 Lambert style; an old woman or two, and the padre 
 Leon, a Jesuit, Capellan of the Capuchin nuns, and 
 whose face besides being handsome, looks the very 
 personification of all that is good, and mild, and 
 holy. What a fine study for a painter his head 
 would be ! The old priest who died, and who had 
 brought over various valuables from Spain, had a sis¬ 
 ter who was a leper, and who died in the hospital of 
 San Lazaro. This dreadful scourge is by no means 
 wholly unknown here; and though it is ordained 
 that all who are afflicted by it shall be shut up in 
 this hospital, I have met two persons, and one of 
 these in society, who have the disease. 
 
 For this house, which is very large, the executors 
 ask a preposterous rent. The goods of the defunct, 1 *^ 
 which were for sale, were ranged on long tables in a 
 very large apartment. There were virgins and 
 saints, surplices, candlesticks and snuffer-trays; 
 boxes of all sorts and sizes; an ill-set parure of 
 emeralds and diamonds; several good paintings, 
 especially one of the Annunciation. There was the 
 death of San Jose, various saints, &c., all religious 
 
 subjects, as may be supposed. Two C-n 
 
 bought; one I greatly coveted. There were also 
 two large pieces of embroidered velvet, on which 
 
160 
 
 PADRE I.EON. 
 
 were the arms of Castille; said to have been hung 
 on a portrait of Queen Cristina, when she entered 
 
 Madrid. The agent begged C-n to buy them, 
 
 asking at the same time an impossible price therefor. 
 
 There was moreover a large box full of relics from 
 Jerusalem, which the padre told me could not be 
 sold, but that I might choose whatever I liked, so 
 that I returned home with various Agnus Deis, cru¬ 
 cifixes and rosaries. The next day, a messenger 
 from padre Leon brought me the painting of the 
 Annunciation, which I had admired so much, and 
 which is a sketch of Bayeu, a Valencian painter, 
 from his own painting of the Annunciation in the 
 royal chapel of Aranjuez ; also the embroidered 
 velvet, begging my acceptance of both. We have 
 since wished to shew our sense of the padre’s polite¬ 
 ness, but he will neither accept presents, nor will he 
 visit any one but such as in the hour of need require 
 his spiritual services. In the house of sickness, and 
 by the bed of death he is ever to be found, but 
 chiefly if it is also the abode of poverty. In the house 
 of the rich man he rarely visits, and then only when 
 his presence has been requested — when he has 
 been called in to administer spiritual consolation to 
 the sick or the dying. But in the dwelling of the 
 lowly, in the meanest and most wretched hovels, 
 he has never to be sought. The guardian and 
 friend of the poor, his charities are equally extensive 
 and judicious. 
 
 Yesterday, being a fete day, the Pasco was very 
 full of carriages, and consequently more brilliant and 
 amusing than usual. This Paseo is the Mexican 
 
THE PASEO. 
 
 161 
 
 Prado or Hyde-Park, while the Viga may be reck¬ 
 oned the Kensington Gardens of the metropolis, only 
 however as succeeding to the other, for there is no 
 walking, which in Mexico is considered wholly un¬ 
 fashionable ; and though a few ladies in black gowns 
 and mantillas do occasionally venture forth on foot 
 very early to shop, or to attend mass ; the streets are 
 so ill kept, the pavements so narrow, the crowd so 
 great, and the multitude of leperos in rags and 
 blankets so annoying, that all these inconveniences 
 added to the heat of the sun in the middle of the 
 day, form a perfect excuse for their non-appearance 
 on the streets of Mexico. 
 
 In the Alameda, however, which is so pretty and 
 shady, it is very agreeable to walk, but though I 
 have gone there frequently in the morning, I have 
 met but three ladies on foot, and of these, two 
 were foreigners. After all, every one has feet, 
 but ladies alone have carriages, and it may be a 
 mixture of aristocracy and indolence which prevents 
 the Mexican Donas from profaning the soles of their 
 feet by a contact with their mother earth. 
 
 The Paseo called de Bucarelli, after a Viceroy of 
 that name, is a long and broad avenue bounded by 
 the trees which he planted, and where there is a 
 large stone fountain, whose sparkling waters look 
 cool and pleasant, ornamented by a gilt statue of 
 victory. Here, every evening, but more especially 
 on Sundays and fete-days, which last are nearly in¬ 
 numerable, may be seen two long rows of carriages 
 filled with ladies, crowds of gentlemen on horseback 
 riding down the middle between these carriages, 
 14 * 
 
162 
 
 EQUIPAGES. 
 
 soldiers at intervals attending to the preservation of 
 public order, and multitudes of common people and 
 leperos, mingled with some well-dressed gentlemen 
 on foot. The carriages are for the most part ex¬ 
 tremely handsome — European coaches with fine 
 horses and odd liveries, mingled with carriages made 
 in the country, some in the old Mexican fashion, 
 heavy and covered with gilding, or a modern imita¬ 
 tion of an English carriage, strong but somewhat 
 clumsy and ill-finished. Various hackney-coaches, 
 drawn by mules, are seen amongst the finer equip¬ 
 ages, some very tolerable, and others of extraordinary 
 form and dimensions, which bear tokens of having 
 belonged in former days to some noble Don. 
 
 Horses, as being more showy, are more fashiona¬ 
 ble in these public promenades than mules, but the 
 latter animal requires less care, and is capable of un¬ 
 dergoing more fatigue than the horse. Most families 
 have both mules and horses in their stable, and for 
 those who visit much, this is necessary. The car¬ 
 riages, of which the most fashionable seems to be the 
 carratela, open at the sides, with glass windows, are 
 filled with ladies in full toilette, without mantillas, 
 their heads uncovered, and, generally, coiffees with 
 flowers or jewels; but the generality being close 
 coaches, afford but an indistinct view of the inmates, 
 as they pass along saluting each other with their fin¬ 
 gers or fan. The whole scene on the evening of a 
 fete, is exceedingly brilliant, but very monotonous. 
 The equestrians, with their fine horses and hand¬ 
 some Mexican dresses, apparently take no notice of 
 the ladies as they pass, rarely salute them, and never 
 
SMOKING. 
 
 163 
 
 venture to enter into conversation with them. But 
 they are well aware to whom each carriage belongs, 
 and consequently when it behoves them to make 
 their horses curvet, and otherwise show off their 
 horsemanship to advantage. Black eyes are upon 
 them, and they know it. When the carriages have 
 made two or three turns, they draw up at different 
 stations in a semicircle a little off the road, and there 
 the inmates sit and view the passers by. Occasional 
 streams of smoke may be seen issuing from the car¬ 
 riages, but chiefly, it must be confessed, from the 
 most old-fashioned equipages, and from the hackney- 
 coaches. Smoking amongst ladies in the higher 
 classes is going very much out of fashion, and is 
 rarely practised openly except by elderly, or at least 
 by married ladies. In a secondary class, indeed, 
 young and old inhale the smoke of their cigaritos 
 without hesitation, but when a custom begins to be 
 considered vulgar , it will hardly subsist another gen¬ 
 eration. Unfeminine as it is, 1 do not think it looks 
 ungraceful to see a pretty woman smoke. 
 
 This Paseo commands a fine view of the moun¬ 
 tains, but I greatly prefer the Viga, which now begins 
 to be the fashionable promenade. It is bordered by 
 a canal, shaded by trees, which leads to the Chi- 
 nampas, and is constantly covered with Indians in 
 their canoes, bringing in fruit and flowers and vege¬ 
 tables to the Mexican market. Early in the morn¬ 
 ing it is a pretty sight to see them in these canoes 
 gliding along in a perfect bower of green branches 
 and flowers. 
 
 Yesterday, on returning from an evening drive 
 
164 
 
 A MURDER. 
 
 there, having left C-n and several gentlemen who 
 
 had dined with us, taking coffee and smoking upon 
 the balcony, I found that by good fortune I had 
 escaped being witness of a murder which took place 
 before our door. These gentlemen had observed, for 
 some time, a group of persons, male and female, of 
 the lower class, talking and apparently amusing them¬ 
 selves ; sometimes laughing, and at other times dis¬ 
 puting and giving each other blows. Suddenly, one 
 of the number, a man, darted out from amongst the 
 others, and tried to escape by clambering over the 
 low wall which supports the arches of the aqueduct. 
 Instantly, and quite coolly, another man followed 
 him, drew his knife, and stabbed him in the back. 
 The man fell backwards with a groan, upon which 
 a woman of the party, probably the murderer’s wife, 
 drew out her knife, and stabbed the man several 
 times to the heart, the others, meanwhile, neither 
 speaking nor interfering, but looking on with folded 
 arms, and their usual placid smile of indifference. 
 
 At the same time, some soldiers appeared in the 
 distance, riding down the street, seeing which, the 
 man and woman who had committed the murder, 
 endeavored to take shelter in our house. The por¬ 
 ter had, fortunately, barred the doors, and the sol¬ 
 diers riding up, took them both into custody. No 
 sensation was excited by this, which is an every¬ 
 day occurrence. Yesterday I saw a dead man lying 
 near the Longa (the Exchange) and nobody took 
 any notice of him. “You have been engaged in a 
 
 disagreeable business,” said I to Colonel-, who 
 
 had come to pay us a visit, and was still en grande 
 
COUNTRY FETE. 
 
 165 
 
 tenue, having just returned from the execution of one 
 of his own soldiers, who had stabbed a comrade. 
 “ Yes,” said he, with an air of peculiar gaiety ; “ we 
 
 have just been shooting a little tambour.” . 
 
 We were invited, lately, to a “ dia de campo,” (a 
 day in the country,) a very common amusement 
 here, in which, without any peculiar arrangement or 
 etiquette, a number of people go out to some coun¬ 
 try place in the environs, and spend the day in 
 dancing, breakfasting, walking about, &c. This was 
 given at Tacubaya by Don B-o G-a, a sena¬ 
 
 tor, and was amusing enough. The music consisted 
 of a band of guitars, from which the performers, 
 common men, and probably self-taught, contrived to 
 draw wonderfully good music, and, in the intervals of 
 dancing, played airs from the Straniera and Puritani. 
 The taste for music is certainly universal, the facilities 
 wonderful, the science nearly at zero. 
 
 The ladies in general wore neither diamonds nor 
 pearls, but a sort of demi-toilette, which would have 
 been pretty if their dresses had been longer and their 
 shoes not so tight. Some wore bonnets, which are 
 
 considered full dress. The E-family, and the 
 
 young Senora de C-, were beautifully dressed. 
 
 Mexican women, when they sit, have an air of great 
 dignity, and the most perfect repose of feature. 
 They are always to be seen to most advantage on 
 their sofas, in their carriages, or in their boxes at 
 the theatre. 
 
 There were immensely long tables, covered with 
 Mexican cookery, which I begin to get accustomed 
 to; and a great many toasts were given and a great 
 
 i 
 
166 
 
 VISIT TO THE COLEGIO VIZCAINO. 
 
 quantity of champagne drank. We danced a great 
 deal, quadrilles, waltzes and Spanish country dances, 
 walked about in the garden and orchard in the even¬ 
 ing, and returned to dance again to the music of the 
 indefatigable guitars, so that it was dusk when all the 
 carriages set off, much about the same time, to bear 
 each other company. . . . 
 
 The following day, the Countess C-a having 
 
 been kind enough to procure an order for permission 
 to visit the Colegio Vizcaino, which I was anxious to 
 see, we went there with a large party. This col¬ 
 lege, founded by the gratuitous charities of Spaniards, 
 chiefly from the province of Biscay, is a truly splen¬ 
 did institution. It is an immense building of stone, 
 in the form of a square, on the model, they say, of 
 the palace of Madrid, and possesses in the highest 
 degree that air of solidity and magnificence which 
 distinguishes the Mexican edifices, and which, toge¬ 
 ther with the width and regularity of the streets, the 
 vastness of the public squares, the total absence of all 
 paltry ornament, the balconies with their balustrades 
 and window-gratings of solid iron and bronze, render 
 Mexico, in spite of its inefficient police, one of the 
 noblest-looking cities in the world. The object of 
 this college is to provide for the education of the 
 children of Spaniards, especially for the descendants 
 of Biscayans, in Mexico ; a certain number being 
 admitted upon application to the directors. There 
 are female teachers in all the necessary branches, 
 such as reading, writing, sewing, arithmetic, &c. ; 
 but besides this, there is a part of the building with 
 a separate entrance, where the children of the poor, 
 
VISIT TO THE COLEGIO VIZCAINO. 
 
 167 
 
 of whatever country, are educated gratis. These 
 spend the day there, and go home in the evening. 
 The others are kept upon the plan of a convent, and 
 never leave the institution while they belong to it; 
 but the building is so spacious and airy, with its 
 great galleries, and vast court and fine fountains, 
 garden and spacious azotea, that the children are 
 perfectly well off. There are portieres and sisters, 
 pretty much as in a convent; together with an old 
 respectable Rectora; and the most perfect order 
 and cleanliness prevails through the whole establish¬ 
 ment. 
 
 We first visited the poor scholars, passing through 
 the large halls where they sat with their teachers, 
 divided into classes; sewing, writing, reading, em¬ 
 broidering, or casting up accounts, which last accom¬ 
 plishment must, I think, be sorely against the Mexi¬ 
 can genius. One of the teachers made a little girl 
 present me with a hair chain which she had just 
 completed. Great order and decorum prevailed. 
 Amongst the permanent scholars in the upper part of 
 the institution, there are some who embroider aston¬ 
 ishingly well — surplices, altar-hangings, in short, all 
 the church vestments, in gold or silk. In the room 
 where these are kept, are the confessionals for the 
 pupils. The priests are in a separate room, and the 
 penitents kneel before the grating, which separates 
 the two apartments. All the sleeping-rooms are 
 scrupulously neat and clean, with two green painted 
 beds in each, and a small parlor off it, and frequently 
 ornamented with flowers and birds. The girls are 
 taught to cook and iron and make themselves gene- 
 
168 
 
 VISIT TO THE COLEGIO VIZCAINO. 
 
 rally useful, thus being fitted to become excellent 
 wives to respectable men in their own rank of life. 
 
 We visited the chapel, which is extremely rich and 
 handsome, encrusted with gilding, and very large. 
 The pupils and their teachers attend mass in the 
 gallery above, which looks down upon the chapel and 
 has a grating before it. Here they have the organ, 
 and various shrines, saints, nacimientos, &c. We 
 were afterwards shown into a great hall, devoted to 
 a different purpose, containing at one end a small 
 theatre for the pupils to act plays in. All the walls 
 of the long galleries are covered with old paintings 
 on holy subjects, but many of them falling to pieces 
 from damp or want of care. The building seems in¬ 
 terminable, and, after wandering all through it for 
 several hours, and visiting every tiling— from the old 
 garden below, where they gave me a large bunch of 
 roses and carnations, to the azotea above, which 
 looks down upon every street and church and con¬ 
 vent in Mexico — we were not sorry to rest on the 
 antique high-backed chairs of a handsome apartment, 
 of which the walls were hung with the portraits of 
 the different Spanish directors of the college, in an¬ 
 cient court costume. Here we found that the direc¬ 
 tors had prepared a beautiful collation for us — fruit, 
 ices, cakes, custards, jellies, wines, &c., in great 
 profusion. 
 
 Rested and refreshed, we proceeded to visit the 
 pupils at their different classes. At the writing-class 
 various specimens of that polite art were presented 
 to us. That of the elder girls was generally bad, 
 probably from their having entered the college late in 
 
LA JOTA. 
 
 169 
 
 life. That of the younger ones was much more toler¬ 
 able. We saw some really beautiful specimens of 
 embroidery. Having returned to the hall, where there 
 was a piano, some of our party began to sing and 
 play. The Sehora G——o sang an Italian air beauti¬ 
 fully. She is evidently a scientific musician. The 
 
 Senorita H-s played one of Herz’s most difficult 
 
 combinations with great execution, and a pretty girl, 
 who is living in the convent, having been placed there 
 by her novio, to keep her out of harm’s way till he 
 is prepared to give her his hand, sang a duet with 
 another young lady, which I accompanied. Both had 
 fine voices, but no notion of what they were sing¬ 
 ing. My friend, the Sehora C-— delighted us with 
 
 some of the innumerable and amusing verses of the 
 Jota Arragonesa, which seem to have neither end nor 
 beginning, all gay and all untranslatable, or at least 
 losing their point and wit when put into an English 
 dress. Such as 
 
 A poor man met with a sixpence, 
 
 And for joy he gave up the ghost, 
 
 And in the troubles of death, 
 
 Even his sixpence was lost. 
 
 The woman who loves two at once 
 Knows what is discreet and right, 
 Since if one of her candles goes out 
 Still the other remains alight, &c. 
 
 It is impossible to see any building of this size kept 
 more perfectly clean and neat; generally the case 
 here in all establishments which are under petticoat 
 government. These old Spanish institutions are cer-> 
 
 15 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
170 
 
 SOLDIERS. 
 
 tainly on a magnificent scale, though now for the 
 most part neglected, and falling to ruin ; nor has any 
 work of great consequence been attempted since the 
 independence. . . . 
 
 After various alarms and rumors in our house, con¬ 
 cerning robbers, some true, some exaggerated, and 
 some wholly false, we have at length procured two 
 old Spanish soldiers of the Invalidos, who have taken 
 up their quarters down stairs ; and spend their time 
 in cleaning their guns, making shoes, eating and sleep¬ 
 ing, but as yet have had no occasion to prove their 
 valor. Perhaps the fact of there being soldiers in 
 the house will be sufficient to keep off the more ordi¬ 
 nary robbers. 
 
LETTER THE TWELFTH. 
 
 The Yiga during the Carnival — Variety of equipages — The 
 millionaires — The monks — Masked ball — An alarming sight 
 — Medical students — Dinner at the Prussian Minister’s — 
 Rides on horseback — Indian love of flowers — Santa Anita — 
 The Chinampas — Their origin — Indians in canoes — Song of 
 “ El Palomo ” — Fighting — The Great Lakes — The Drain of 
 Huehuetoca — The great market of TIatelolco. 
 
 16 th March. 
 
 We are now in Lent, in the midst of prayer, church¬ 
 going and fasting. The carnival was not very gay, 
 with the exception of a few public masked balls, and 
 very brilliant paseos. The Viga is one of the most 
 beautiful promenades imaginable, though it might 
 easily be rendered still more .so ; but even as it is, 
 with its fine shady trees and canal, along which the 
 lazy canoes are constantly gliding, it would be diffi¬ 
 cult, on a fine evening, just before sunset, especially 
 on the evening of a fete-day, to find anywhere a 
 prettier or more characteristic scene. Which rank of 
 society shows the most taste in their mode of enjoy¬ 
 ment, must be left to the scientific to determine; the 
 Indians, with their flower-garlands and guitars, lying 
 in their canoes, and dancing and singing after their 
 own fashion, as they glide along the water, inhaling 
 the balmy breezes ; or the ladies, who, shut up in 
 their close carriages, promenade along in full dress 
 
172 
 
 THE VIGA. 
 
 and silence for a given space of time, acknowledging, 
 by a gentle movement of their fan, the salutations of 
 their fair friends from the recesses of their coaches, 
 and seeming to dread lest the air of heaven should 
 visit them too roughly ; though the soft breeze, laden 
 with balm steals over the sleepy water, and the last 
 rays of the sun are gilding the branches of the trees 
 with a broken and flickering light. . . . 
 
 Then at certain intervals of time, each carriage 
 solemnly draws up beside its neighbor, (as in the 
 other paseo) ; the elegant carratela beside the ple¬ 
 beian hackney-coach ; the splendid equipage of the 
 millionaire beside the lumbering and antique vehicle 
 whose fashion hath now departed. There sit the 
 inmates in silence, as if the business of life were 
 over, and it was now their part to watch the busy 
 world from the loop-holes of their retreat, and see it 
 rolling along, whilst they take their rest. The gentle¬ 
 men also draw up their prancing steeds, though not 
 within hail of the carriages, but they in the fresh air 
 and under the green trees have as much advantage 
 over the Sehoras as the wandering friar has over the 
 cloistered nun. 
 
 Yet enter the Viga about five o’clock, when freshly 
 watered, and the soldiers have taken their stand to 
 prevent disturbances, and two long lines of carriages 
 are to be seen going and returning, as far as the eye 
 can reach, and hundreds of gay plebeians are assem¬ 
 bled on the sidewalks, with flowers and fruit and 
 dulces for sale, and innumerable equestrians in pic¬ 
 turesque dresses, and with spirited horses, fill up the 
 interval between the carriages, and the canoes are 
 
THE VIGA. 
 
 173 
 
 covering the canal, the Indians singing and dancing 
 lazily as the boats steal along, and the whole under 
 the blue and cloudless sky, and in that pure, clear 
 atmosphere; and could you only shut your eyes to 
 the one disagreeable feature in the picture, the num¬ 
 ber of leperos busy in the exercise of their vocation, 
 you would believe that Mexico must be the most 
 flourishing, most enjoyable, and most peaceful place 
 in the world, and moreover the wealthiest; not a 
 republic certainly, for there is no well-dressed peo¬ 
 ple ; hardly a connecting link between the blankets 
 and the satins, the poppies and the diamonds. As 
 for the carriages, many would not disgrace Hyde- 
 Park, though there are that would send a shiver all 
 along Bond street; but the very contrast is amusing, 
 and upon the whole, both as to horses and equipages, 
 there is much more to admire than to criticise. . . . 
 
 There, for example, is the handsome carriage of 
 
 the rich-, who has one of the finest houses 
 
 in Mexico; his wife wears a velvet turban twisted 
 with large pearls, and has at this moment a cigar in 
 her mouth. She is not pretty, but her jewels are 
 superb. How he made his fortune, partly by gam¬ 
 bling, and partly by even less honorable means, let 
 some abler chronicler relate. Or look at this elegant 
 carratela, with its glass sides all opened, giving to 
 view a constellation of fair ones, and drawn by 
 handsome gray frisones. These ladies are remarka¬ 
 ble as having a more European air than most others, 
 brighter colors, longer and simpler dresses, and Paris 
 bonnets. Perhaps they have been in Europe. It 
 15 * 
 
174 
 
 MILLIONAIRES. 
 
 is remarkable that the horses of the gentlemen 
 all appear peculiarly unmanageable every time they 
 pass this carriage. Another handsome, plain car¬ 
 riage, containing the family of one of the minis¬ 
 ters ; mother and daughters, all beautiful, with Span¬ 
 ish eyes and dark glowing complexions, followed 
 close by a hackney-coach containing women with 
 rebosos, and little children, with their faces and 
 
 fingers all bedaubed with candy. Some of 
 
 the coachmen and footmen wear Mexican dresses, 
 and others have liveries. But here come 
 
 three carriages en suite, all with the same crimson 
 and gold livery, all luxurious, and all drawn by 
 handsome white horses. Is it the President ? Cer¬ 
 tainly not; it is too ostentatious. Even royalty goes 
 in simpler guise, when it condescends to mingle in 
 the amusements of its subjects. In the first carriage 
 appear the great man himself and his consort, rather 
 withdrawing from the plebeian gaze. There is here 
 much crimson and gold, much glass and well-stuffed 
 cushions, much comfort and magnificence combined. 
 Two handsome northern steeds, white and prancing, 
 draw this commodious equipage. The next is a 
 splendid coach, containing the children and servants, 
 while in the third equally magnificent, are the babies 
 and nurses. By the side of the first carriage rides 
 an elderly gentleman, who, were his seat firmer, 
 might be mistaken for a picador. He wears a rich 
 Mexican dress, all covered with gold embroidery ; 
 his hat with gold rolls is stuck jauntily on one side, 
 contrasting oddly enough with his uneasy expression 
 
MONKS. 
 
 175 
 
 of countenance, probably caused by the inward trep¬ 
 idation of which he cannot wholly repress the out¬ 
 ward sign while managing his high-bred steed, and 
 with his feet pressing his silver stirrups, cautiously 
 touching him with a whip which has a large diamond 
 in the handle. 
 
 But the chief wonder of his equipment, and that 
 which has procured him such a retinue of little rag¬ 
 ged and shouting boys, is his saddle. This extraor¬ 
 dinary piece of furniture, which cost the owner five 
 thousand dollars, is entirely covered with velvet, 
 richly embossed in massive gold; he sometimes ap¬ 
 pears with another, inlaid with pure silver. 
 
 His whole appearance is the most singular imag¬ 
 inable, and the perturbation of spirit in which he 
 must return when it begins to grow dusk, and he re¬ 
 flects at once upon his own value, and his country¬ 
 men’s taste for appropriation, must balance the en¬ 
 joyment which his vanity receives from the admira¬ 
 tion of the little boys in the Paseo. 
 
 Just as these millionaires pass by, an old hack¬ 
 ney-coach in their wake, attracts our attention, ex¬ 
 actly the sort of quaint old vehicle in which it some¬ 
 times pleases Lady Morgan to introduce her heroines. 
 In it are six figures, closely masked, their faces cov¬ 
 ered with shawls. After many conjectures, it is im¬ 
 possible to guess whether they are men or women. 
 It ivas impossible, but as the carriages return, the wind 
 suddenly blows aside the shawls of two of the party, 
 and discloses the gowns and hoods of the — friars! 
 O tempora ! O mores ! ... . 
 
 There were three masked balls at the theatre, of 
 
176 
 
 MASKED BALL. 
 
 which we only attended one. We went about ten 
 o’clock to a box on the pit tier, and although a 
 pronunciamiento (the fashionable term here for a rev¬ 
 olution) was prognosticated, we found everything 
 very quiet and orderly, and the ball very gay and 
 crowded. As we came in, and were giving our 
 tickets, a number of masks came springing by, 
 shrieking out our names in their unearthly voices. 
 
 Captain G-, brother of Lord-, came to our 
 
 box ; also a scion of La jeune France, M. de C-, 
 
 who condescendingly kept his hat on during the whole 
 evening. In a box directly above us, were the French 
 legation who arrived lately. Amongst the women, the 
 dresses were for the most part dominos, adopted for 
 greater concealment, as it was not considered very 
 creditable to be there. 
 
 There were also several in men’s attire, chiefly 
 French modistes, generally a most disreputable set 
 here, and numerous men dressed as women. There 
 were masked Poblanas without stockings, and with 
 very short petticoats ; knights in armor ; innumerable 
 dresses probably borrowed from the theatre, and 
 even more than the usual proportion of odd figures. 
 The music was very good, and the dancers waltzed 
 and galloped, and flew round the room like furies. 
 There was at least no want of animation. Hundreds 
 of masks spoke to us, but I discovered no one. One 
 in a domino was peculiarly anxious to direct my at¬ 
 tention to the Poblana dress, and asked me if it 
 would have done for me to attend the fancy ball in 
 such a costume. Very angry at his absurdity, I be¬ 
 gan to explain how I should have dressed, when I 
 
VAGUE FEARS. 
 
 177 
 
 recollected the folly of explaining anything to a 
 
 creature whom I did not know. C-n stepped out 
 
 of the box, to walk amongst the crowd, at which 
 various masks shewed great signs of joy, surrounding 
 and shaking hands with him. 
 
 The boxes were filled with ladies, and the scene 
 was very amusing. Sehor M——, whose box we oc¬ 
 cupied, ordered in cakes and wine, and about one 
 o’clock we left the ball-room and returned home, one 
 of our old soldiers acting as lackey. 
 
 I paid a visit the other day, which merits to be re¬ 
 corded. It was to the rich Sehora-, whose first 
 
 visit I had not yet returned. She was at home, and 
 I was shewn into a very large drawing-room, where, 
 to my surprise, I found the lamps, mirrors, &c., co¬ 
 vered with black crape, as in cases of mourning here. 
 I concluded that some one of the family was dead, 
 and that I had made a very ill-timed first visit. 
 However, I sat down, when my eyes were instantly 
 attracted by something awful, placed directly in front 
 of the sofa where I sat. There were six chairs 
 ranged together, and on these lay stretched out a 
 figure, apparently a dead body, about six feet long, 
 enveloped in a black cloth, the feet alone visible, 
 from their pushing up the cloth. Oh horror ! Here 
 I sat, my eyes fixed upon this mysterious apparition, 
 and lost in conjecture as to whose body it might be. 
 The master of the house ? He was very tall, and 
 being in bad health might have died suddenly. My 
 being received, argued nothing against this, since the 
 first nine days after a death, the house is invariably 
 crowded with friends and acquaintances, and the 
 
178 
 
 EXPLANATION. 
 
 widow, or orphan, or childless mother must receive 
 the condolences of all and sundry, in the midst of her 
 first bitter sorrow. There seems to be no idea of 
 grief wishing for solitude. 
 
 Pending these reflections, I sat uneasily, feeling or 
 fancying a heavy air in the apartment, and wishing, 
 most sincerely, that some living person would enter. 
 I thought even of slipping away, but feared to give 
 offence, and in fact began to grow so nervous, that 
 
 when the Senora de-entered at length, I started 
 
 up as if I had heard a pistol. She wore a colored 
 muslin gown and a blue shawl; no signs of mourn¬ 
 ing ! 
 
 After the usual complimentary preface, I asked 
 particularly after her husband, keeping a side glance 
 on the mysterious figure. He was pretty well. Her 
 family? Just recovered from the small pox, after be¬ 
 ing severely ill. “ Not dangerously ? ” said I, hesi¬ 
 tatingly, thinking she might have a tall son, and that 
 she alluded to the recovery of the others. “ No 
 but her sister’s children had been alarmingly ill. 
 t<? Not lost any, I hope?”—“None.” Well, so 
 taken up was I, that conversation flagged, and I an¬ 
 swered and asked questions at random, until, at last, 
 I happened to ask the lady if she were going to the 
 country soon. “ Not to remain. But to-morrow we 
 are going to convey a Santo Cristo (a figure of the 
 Crucifixion) there, which has just been made for the 
 chapelglancing towards the figure, “ for which 
 reason this room is, as you see, hung with black.” 
 I never felt so relieved in my life, and thought of the 
 Mysteries of Udolpho. 
 
DINNER PARTY. 
 
 179 
 
 The houses being so large, and the servants not 
 drilled to announce visiters ; besides that the entre¬ 
 sols are frequently let to other families, it is a matter 
 of no small difficulty for a stranger to pioneer him or 
 herself into the presence of the people of the house. 
 The mistakes that I have made ! for not being aware 
 of this fact concerning the entresols, which are often 
 large and handsome, and the porter having begged 
 me to walk up, I generally stopped at the first land¬ 
 ing-place, and then walked up to the first door that I 
 saw. I did walk in one morning upon two gentle¬ 
 men, who seemed marvellously startled by my visit. 
 They looked like two medical students, and were en¬ 
 gaged before a table, Heaven knows how ; dissect¬ 
 ing, I imagine. I inquired for the Senora -, 
 
 which astonished them still more, as well it might. 
 However, they were very civil, and rushed down 
 stairs to call up the carriage. After that adventure, 
 I never entered a house unaccompanied by a foot¬ 
 man, until I had learnt my way through it. 
 
 We had a pleasant dinner-party a few days ago at 
 
 the Prussian Minister’s, and met the C-s family 
 
 there. The Condesa de C-, has been a long 
 
 while in Europe, and in the best society, and is 
 now entirely devoted to the education of her daugh¬ 
 ters, giving them every advantage that Mexico can 
 afford, in the way of masters, besides having 
 at home a Spanish governess, to assist her, an 
 excellent woman, whom they regard as a second 
 mother. 
 
 Though there is very little going on in Mexico at 
 present, I amuse myself very well ; there is so much 
 
180 
 
 CANOES. 
 
 to see, and the people are so kind and friendly. 
 Having got riding horses, we have been making 
 excursions all round the country, especially early in 
 the morning, before the sun is high, when the air is 
 delightfully cool and refreshing. Sometimes we go 
 to the Viga at six in the morning, to see the Indians 
 bringing in their flowers and vegetables, by the canal. 
 The profusion of sweet pease, double poppies, blue 
 bottles, stock gilly-flower, and roses, I never saw 
 equalled. Each Indian woman, in her canoe, looks 
 as if seated in a floating flower-garden. The same 
 love of flowers distinguishes them now, as in the time 
 of Cortes ; the same which Humboldt remarked cen¬ 
 turies afterwards. In the evening, these Indian 
 women, in their canoes, are constantly crowned with 
 garlands of roses or poppies. Those who sit in the 
 market, selling their fruit or their vegetables, appear 
 as if they sat in bowers formed of fresh green 
 branches and colored flowers. In the poorest village 
 church the floor is strewed with flowers, and before 
 the service begins, fresh nosegays are brought in and 
 arranged upon the altar. The baby at its christen¬ 
 ing, the bride at the altar, the dead body in its bier, 
 all are adorned with flowers. We are told that in 
 the days of Cortes, a bouquet of rare flowers was the 
 most valuable gift presented to the ambassadors who 
 visited the court of Montezuma, and it presents a 
 strange anomaly, this love of flowers having existed 
 along with their sanguinary worship and barbarous 
 sacrifices. 
 
 We went the other evening on the canal, in a 
 large canoe, with an awning, as far as the little village 
 
THE CHINAMPAS. 
 
 181 
 
 of Santa Anita, and saw, for the first time, the far- 
 famed Chinampas, or floating gardens, which have 
 now become fixtures, and are covered with vegeta¬ 
 bles, intermingled with flowers, with a few poor huts 
 beside them, occupied by the Indians, who bring 
 these to the city for sale. There were cauliflowers, 
 chili, tomatoes, cabbages, and other vegetables, but I 
 was certainly disappointed in their beauty. They 
 are however, curious, on account of their origin. 
 So far back as 1245 it is said, the wandering Az¬ 
 tecs or Mexicans arrived first at Chapultepec, when, 
 being persecuted by the princes of Taltocan, they 
 took refuge in a group of islands to the south of the 
 lake of Tezcuco. Falling under the yoke of the 
 Tezcucan kings, they abandoned their island home, 
 and fled to Tezapan, where, as a reward for assisting 
 the chiefs of that country in a war against other pet¬ 
 ty princes, they received their freedom, and establish¬ 
 ed themselves in a city to which they gave the name 
 of Mexicalsingo, from Mejitli, their god of war —- now 
 a collection of strong barns and poor huts. But they 
 did not settle there, for to obey an oracle they trans¬ 
 ported themselves from this city to the islands east of 
 Chapultepec, to the western side of the lake of Tez¬ 
 cuco. An ancient tradition had long been current 
 amongst them, that wherever they should behold an 
 eagle seated upon a nopal whose roots pierced a 
 rock, there they should found a great city. In 1325 
 they beheld this sign, and on the spot, in an island 
 in the lake, founded the first house of God — the 
 Teocalli or Great Temple of Mexico. During all 
 their wanderings, wherever they stopped, the Aztecs 
 16 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
182 
 
 THEIR ORIGIN. 
 
 cultivated the earth, and lived upon what nature 
 gave them. Surrounded by enemies, and in the 
 midst of a lake where there are few fish, necessity 
 and industry compelled them to form floating fields 
 and gardens on the bosom of the waters. 
 
 They weaved together the roots of aquatic plants, 
 intertwined with twigs and light branches, until they 
 had formed a foundation sufficiently strong to sup¬ 
 port a soil formed of the earth which they drew from 
 the bottom of the lake ; and on it they sowed their 
 maize, their chili, and all other plants necessary for 
 their support. These floating gardens were about a 
 foot above the water, and in the form of a long 
 square. Afterwards, in their natural taste for flow¬ 
 ers, they not only cultivated the useful but the orna¬ 
 mental, and these small gardens multiplying, were 
 covered with flowers and aromatic herbs, which were 
 used in the worship of the gods, or were sent to 
 ornament the palace of the emperor. The Chinam- 
 pas along the canal of the Viga, are no longer float¬ 
 ing gardens, but fixed to the main land, in the marshy 
 grounds lying between the two great lakes of Chaleo 
 and Tezcuco. A small trench full of water sepa¬ 
 rates each garden ; and though now in this marshy 
 land they give but a faint idea of what they may 
 have been, when they raised their flowef-crowned 
 heads above the clear waters of the lake, and when 
 the Indians, in their barks, wishing to remove their 
 habitations, could tow along their little islands of 
 roses, it is still a pretty and a pleasant scene. 
 
 We bought numerous garlands of roses and pop¬ 
 pies from the Indian children, both here and at Santa 
 
183 
 
 THE “ PALOMO.” 
 
 Anita, a little village where we landed, and as we 
 returned towards evening, we were amused by the 
 singing and dancing of the Indians. One canoe 
 came close up to ours, and kept beside it for some 
 time. A man was lying lazily at the bottom of the 
 boat, tingling his guitar, and one or two women were 
 dancing monotonously and singing at the same time 
 to his music. Sundry jars of pulque and earthen 
 dishes with tortillas and chili and pieces of tasajo, 
 long festoons of dried and salted beef, proved that 
 the party were not without their solid comforts, in 
 spite of the romantic guitar, and the rose and poppy 
 garlands with which the dancing nymphs were 
 crowned. Amongst others, they performed the Pa- 
 lomo, the Dove, one of their most favorite dances. 
 The music is pretty, and I send it you with the 
 words, the music from ear; the words are given me 
 
 by my friend, the Senora A-d, who sings all these 
 
 little Indian airs in perfection. If we may form some 
 judgment of a people’s civilization by their ballads, 
 none of the Mexican songs give us a very high idea 
 of theirs. The words are generally a tissue of ab¬ 
 surdities, nor are there any patriotic songs, which 
 their new-born freedom might have called forth from 
 so musical a people. At least I have as yet only dis¬ 
 covered one air of which the words bear reference 
 to the glorious “ Grito de Dolores,” and which as¬ 
 serts in rhyme that on account of that memorable 
 event, the Indian was able to get as drunk as a 
 Christian! The translation of the Palomo is as 
 follows: 
 
 “ What are you doing, little dove, there in the wine- 
 
184 THE “PALOMO.” 
 
 shop ? Waiting for my love, until Tuesday my life. 
 A dove in flying, hurt her little wing. If you have 
 your dove, I have my little dove too. A dove in 
 flying, all her feathers fell off. Women pay badly; 
 not all, but some of them. Little dove of the bar¬ 
 racks, you will tell the drummers, when they beat the 
 retreat, to strike up the march of my loves. Little 
 dove, what are you doing there, leaning against that 
 wall? Waiting for my dove, till he brings me some¬ 
 thing to eat.” At the end of each verse, the chorus 
 of “ Palomita, palomo, palomo.” 
 
 Yet, monotonous as it is, the air is so pretty, the 
 women sang so softly and sleepily, the music sounded 
 so soothingly as we glided along the water, that I 
 felt in a pleasant half-dreamy state of perfect con¬ 
 tentment, and was sorry when arriving at the land¬ 
 ing place, we had to return to a carriage and civil¬ 
 ized life, with nothing but the garlands of flowers to 
 remind us of the Chinampas. 
 
 Unfortunately, these people generally end by 
 too frequent applications to the jarro of pulque, or 
 what is worse, to the pure spirit known by the name 
 of chinguirite ; the consequence of which is, that 
 from music and dancing, and rose-becrowning, they 
 proceed to quarrelling and jealousy, and drunken¬ 
 ness, which frequently terminates in their fighting, 
 stabbing each other, or throwing each other into the 
 canal. “ The end crowns the work.” 
 
 Noble as this present city of Mexico is, one cannot 
 help thinking how much more picturesque the an¬ 
 cient Tenochtitlan was, and how much more fertile 
 its valley must have been, on account of the great 
 
185 
 
 THE “ DESAGUE.” 
 
 lakes. Yet even in the time of Cortes, these lakes 
 had no great depth of water, and still further back, 
 in the time of the Indian Emperors, navigation had 
 been so frequently interrupted in seasons of drought, 
 that an aqueduct had been constructed in order to 
 supply the canals with water. 
 
 After this the Spaniards, like all new settlers, 
 hewed down the fine trees in this beautiful valley, 
 both on plain and mountain, leaving the bare soil 
 exposed to the vertical rays of the sun. Then their 
 well-founded dread of inundation caused them to 
 construct the famous Desague of Huehuetoca, the 
 drain or subterranean conduit or channel in the 
 mountain, for drawing off the waters of the lakes, 
 thus leaving marshy lands or sterile plains covered with 
 carbonate of soda, where formerly were silver lakes cov¬ 
 ered with canoes. This last was a necessary evil, since 
 the Indian Emperors themselves were sensible of its 
 necessity, and had formed great works for draining 
 the lakes, some remains of which works still exist in 
 the vicinity of the Penon. The great Desague was 
 begun in 1607, when the Marquis of Salinas was 
 Viceroy of Mexico; and the operations were com¬ 
 menced with great pomp, the Viceroy assisting in 
 person, mass being said on a portable altar, and fif¬ 
 teen hundred workmen assembled, while the Mar¬ 
 quis himself began the excavation by giving the first 
 stroke with a spade. From 1607 to 1830, eight mil¬ 
 lions of dollars were expended, and yet this great 
 work was not brought to a conclusion. However, 
 the limits of the two lakes of Zumpango and San 
 Cristobal, to the north of the valley, were thus greatly 
 18 * 
 
186 
 
 SAN LAZARO. 
 
 reduced, and the lake of Tezcuco, the most beautiful 
 of all the five, no longer received their contributions. 
 Thus the danger of inundations has diminished, but 
 water and vegetation have diminished also, and the 
 suburbs of the city, which were formerly covered with 
 beautiful gardens, now present to the eye an arid ex¬ 
 panse of efflorescent salt. The plains near San La- 
 zaro especially, in their arid whiteness, seem charac¬ 
 teristic of the unfortunate victims of leprosy enclosed 
 in the walls of that hospital. 
 
 We rode out the other day by the barrio , or ward 
 of Santiago, which occupies part of the ancient 
 Tlatelolco, which once constituted a separate state 
 had kings of its own, and was conquered by a Mexi¬ 
 can monarch, who made a communication by bridges 
 between it and Mexico. The great market men¬ 
 tioned by Cortes was held here, and its boundaries 
 are still pointed out, whilst the convent chapel stands 
 on the height where Cortes erected a battering en¬ 
 gine, when he was besieging the Indian Venice. 
 
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH. 
 
 Convent of San Joaquin — Mexico in the morning — Tacuba — 
 Carmelite Prior — Convent Garden—Hacienda of Los Mo¬ 
 rales — El Olivar — A Huacatnaya — Humming Birds — Cor¬ 
 respondence — Expected Consecration — Visit to the Mineria 
 — Botanic Gardefi — Arbol de las Manitas — The Museum — 
 Equestrian Statue — Academy of Painting and Sculpture — 
 Disappointment. 
 
 Early this morning we rode to the Convent of San 
 Joaquin, belonging to friars of the Carmelite order, 
 passing through Tacuba, the ancient Tlacopan, once 
 the capital of a small kingdom, and whose monarch, 
 Tetlepanquetzaltzin, (short and convenient name) 
 Cortes caused to be hanged on a tree for a supposed 
 or real conspiracy. The number of carts, the innu¬ 
 merable Indians loaded like beasts of burthen, their 
 women with baskets of vegetables in their hands and 
 children on their backs, the long strings of arrieros 
 with their loaded mules, the droves of cattle, the 
 flocks of sheep, the herds of pigs, render it a work of 
 some difficulty to make one’s way on horseback out 
 of the gates of Mexico at an early hour of the morn¬ 
 ing, but it must be confessed, that the whole scene is 
 lively and cheerful enough, to make one forget that 
 there is such a thing as care in the world. There is 
 an indifferent, placid smile on every face, and the 
 bright blue sky smiling over them all; dogs bark, 
 
188 
 
 TACUBA. 
 
 and asses bray, and the Indian, with near a mule’s 
 load on his back, drags his hat oft' to salute a bevy of 
 his bronze-colored countrymen, nearly equally laden 
 with himself, and they all show their teeth, and talk 
 their liquid Indian, and pass on. 
 
 These plains of Tacuba, once the theatre of fierce 
 and bloody conflicts, and where, during the siege of 
 Mexico, Alvarado of the leap fixed his camp, now 
 present a very tranquil scene. Tacuba itself is now 
 a small village of mud huts, with some fine old trees, 
 a few very old ruined houses, a ruined church, and 
 
 some traces of a building which-assured us had 
 
 been the palace of their last monarch ; whilst others 
 declare it to have been the site of the Spanish en¬ 
 campment. San Joaquin, also a poor village, contains 
 the fine convent and immense walled garden and or¬ 
 chard belonging to the rich monks of the Carmelite 
 
 order. As C-n knows the prior, he sent in our 
 
 names, and I was admitted as far as the sacristy of 
 the convent church. The prior received us with the 
 utmost kindness. He is a good-looking man, ex¬ 
 tremely amiable and well-informed, and still young. 
 The gentlemen were admitted into the interior of 
 the convent, which they describe as being a very 
 large, handsome building, clean and airy, with a fine 
 old library, chiefly composed of theological works ; 
 to the garden, which is immensely large, and though 
 not much cultivated, full of flowers; and to the great 
 orchard, celebrated for the profusion and excellence 
 of its fruit. There is a mirador in the garden which 
 can be seen from the road, and from which there is 
 a very extensive view. I was very anxious for ad- 
 
EL OLIVAR. 
 
 ]89 
 
 mittance only to the garden, and pleaded the manly 
 appearance of my riding hat, which would prevent 
 all scandal, were I seen from a distance, but the 
 complaisance of the good prior would not go quite 
 so far as that, so I sat in the sacristy and conversed 
 with a good-natured old monk with a double chin, 
 whilst the others wandered through the grounds. 
 They afterwards gave us a very nice breakfast, sim¬ 
 ple, but good ; fish from the lake, different prepara¬ 
 tions of eggs, riz-au-lait, coffee and fruit. The 
 monks did not sit down with us, nor would they par¬ 
 take of anything themselves. . . . 
 
 We went in the evening to see a pretty Hacienda 
 called Los Morales, (the mulberry trees) belonging 
 to a Spaniard, which has a nice garden with a bath 
 in it, and where they bestowed a quantity of beauti¬ 
 ful flowers on us. 
 
 The other day we set off early, together with the 
 Belgian and French Ministers and their families, in 
 carriages, to visit a beautiful deserted Hacienda call¬ 
 ed el Olivar, belonging to the Marquis of Santiago. 
 The house is perfectly bare, with nothing but the 
 walls ; but the grounds are a wilderness of tangled 
 flowers and blossoming trees — rose-bushes — sweet 
 pease and all manner of fragrant flowers. We passed 
 an agreeable day, wandering about, breakfasting on 
 the provisions brought with us, arranging large bou¬ 
 quets of flowers, and firing at a mark, which must 
 have startled the birds in this solitary and unculti¬ 
 vated retreat. We had a pleasant family dinner at 
 the E——’s, and passed the evening at the Baron 
 de -’s. The gentlemen returned late, it being 
 
190 
 
 HUACAMAYA. 
 
 the day of a diplomatic dinner at the English Min¬ 
 ister’s. 
 
 The Countess del V-e has just sent me a 
 
 beautiful bird with the most gorgeous plumage of the 
 brightest scarlet and blue. It is called a huacamaya, 
 and is of the parrot species, but three times as large, 
 being about two feet from the beak to the tip of the 
 tail. It is a superb creature, but very wicked, 
 gnawing not only its own pole, but all the doors, and 
 committing great havoc amongst the plants, besides 
 trying to bite every one who approaches it. It pro¬ 
 nounces a few words very hoarsely and indistinctly, 
 and has a most harsh, disagreeable cry. In fact it 
 presumes upon its beauty to be as unamiable as pos¬ 
 sible. 
 
 I prefer some beautiful little humming birds, (chu- 
 pamirtos as they are called here,) which have been 
 sent me, and which I am trying to preserve alive, 
 but I fear the cold will kill them, for though we see 
 them occasionally here, hanging by their beaks upon 
 the branches of the flowers, like large butterflies, and 
 shaking their brilliant little wings so rapidly that they 
 seem to emit sparkles of colored light, still this is not 
 their home, properly speaking — they belong to the 
 tierra caliente. These little birds are of a golden 
 green and purple, and are so tame, that whilst I am 
 writing, I have two on my shoulder, and one perched 
 on the edge of a glass, diving out its long tongue for 
 sugar and water. Our live stock is considerable ; we 
 have Guinea fowls, who always remind me of old 
 maiden ladies in half-mourning, and whose scream¬ 
 ing notes match those of the huacamaya, various lit- 
 
CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 191 
 
 tie green parrots, a scarlet cardenal, one hundred 
 and sixty pigeons in the pigeon-house, and three 
 fierce dogs in conspicuous situations. 
 
 I received a very polite letter to-day from the 
 Senora de Santa Anna, and as it was enclosed in a 
 few lines from Santa Anna himself, I send you his 
 autograph, for I doubt much whether we have seen 
 the last of that illustrious personage, or whether his 
 philosophic retirement will endure forever. 
 
 I have been endeavoring lately to procure permis¬ 
 sion from Senor Posada, who is shortly to be conse¬ 
 crated Archbishop, to visit the Convents of Nuns in 
 Mexico. Senor C-o, secretary of state, our par¬ 
 
 ticular friend, has been kind enough to interest him¬ 
 self in the matter, though with indifferent hopes of 
 success. A few days ago he sent me his corres¬ 
 pondence with Senor Posada, who observes that the 
 Vice-Queens alone had the privilege of the entree, and 
 seems to hesitate a good deal as to the advisableness 
 of granting a permission which might be considered 
 a precedent for others. However I think he is too 
 amiable to resist our united entreaties. I hold out 
 
 as an argument, that C-n, being the Duplicado 
 
 of the Queen herself, my visit is equal to that of the 
 Vice-Queen, which argument has at least amused 
 him. His consecration is fixed for the 31st of May. 
 
 Don Pedro Fonti, the last Archbishop named in 
 the time of the Spanish dominion, having renounced 
 the mitre, three illustrious churchmen were proposed 
 to fill the vacant place ; this Don Manuel Posada, 
 Don Antonio Campos, and Dr. Don Jose Maria de 
 Santiago. The first was chosen by the Mexican 
 
192 
 
 MINERIA, ETC. 
 
 government, and was afterwards proclaimed in the 
 Roman Consistory last December, with the approba¬ 
 tion of Gregory the sixteenth. They are now only 
 waiting for the pontifical bulls, which are daily ex¬ 
 pected from Rome; and it is said that the ceremony, 
 which will take place in the Cathedral, will be very 
 magnificent. 
 
 April 3d. — Accompanied by the-Minister, 
 
 we spent yesterday in visiting the Mineria, the Bo¬ 
 tanic Garden, the Museum, &c., all which leave a 
 certain disagreeable impression on the mind, since, 
 without having the dignity of ruins, they are fine 
 buildings neglected. The Mineria, or School of 
 Mines, the work of the famous architect and sculptor 
 Tolsa, is a magnificent building, a palace whose fine 
 proportions would render it remarkable amongst the 
 finest edifices of any European country. All is on a 
 great scale, its noble rows of pillars, great staircases, 
 large apartments and lofty roofs, but it reminds one 
 of a golden aviary, containing a few common spar¬ 
 rows. Several rich Spaniards contributed more than 
 six hundred thousand dollars to its construction. 
 We were shown through the whole of this admirable 
 building by the director, who occupies a very hand¬ 
 some house attached to it. But however learned 
 the professors may be, and amongst them is the 
 scientific Sehor del Rio, now very old, but a man of 
 great learning and research ; the collections of min¬ 
 erals, the instruments and models, are all miserable 
 and ill kept. 
 
 The Botanic Garden, within the Palace, is a small 
 ill-kept enclosure, where there still remain some rare 
 
BOTANIC GARDEN. 
 
 193 
 
 plants of the immense collection made in the time 
 of the Spanish government, when great progress 
 was made in all the natural sciences, four hundred 
 thousand dollars having been expended in botan¬ 
 ical expeditions alone. Courses of botanical lec¬ 
 tures were then given annually by the most learned 
 professors, and the taste for natural history was uni¬ 
 versal. 
 
 El Arbol de las Manitas, (the tree of the small 
 hands) was the most curious which we saw in the 
 garden. The flower is of a bright scarlet, in the 
 form of a hand, with five fingers and a thumb; and 
 it is said that there are only three of these trees in 
 the Republic. The gardener is an old Italian, who 
 came over with one of the Viceroys, and though now 
 one hundred and ten years old, and nearly bent dou¬ 
 ble, possesses all his faculties. The garden is pretty 
 from the age of the trees, and luxuriance of the 
 flowers, but melancholy as a proof of the decay of 
 science in Mexico. The Palace itself, now occu¬ 
 pied by the President, formerly belonged to Cortes, 
 and was ceded by his descendants to the government. 
 In exchange they received the ground formerly oc¬ 
 cupied by the palace of the Aztec kings, and built on 
 it a very splendid edifice, where the state archives 
 are kept, and where the Monte Pio, (the office 
 where money is lent on plate, jewels, &c.) now is, 
 the director of which is Don Francisco Tagle, whose 
 apartments within the building are very elegant and 
 spacious. 
 
 The Museum, within the University, and opposite 
 the Palace, in the plaza called del Volador, contains 
 
 17 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
194 
 
 MUSEUM. 
 
 many rare and valuable works, many curious Indian 
 antiquities, but they are ill arranged. On the walls 
 are the portraits of the vice-kings, beginning with 
 Hernan Cortes. We spent a long while here ex¬ 
 amining these antiquities ; but we have seen no¬ 
 thing in Mexico to equal the beauty of the colossal 
 equestrian statue in bronze of Charles the Fourth, 
 placed on a pedestal of Mexican marble, which 
 stands in the court of the University, but formerly 
 adorned the middle of the square. It is a magni¬ 
 ficent piece of sculpture, the master-piece of Tolsa, 
 remarkable for the noble simplicity and purity of its 
 style, and was made at the expense of an ex-Vice- 
 roy, the Marquis of Branciforte. We also saw the 
 Goddess of War lying in a corner of the court, be¬ 
 side the Stone of sacrifices,- which we had already 
 been shown. 
 
 To-day we have been visiting the Academy of 
 painting and sculpture, called the Academy of Fine 
 Arts, of which I unfortunately recollected having read 
 Humboldt’s brilliant account, in my forcibly prolonged 
 studies on board the Jason, and that he mentions its 
 having had the most favorable influence in forming 
 the national taste. He tells us, that every night in 
 these spacious halls, well illuminated by Argand 
 lamps, hundreds of young men were assembled, some 
 sketching from the plaster-casts, or from life, and 
 others copying designs of furniture, candelabras and 
 other bronze ornaments ; and that here, all classes, 
 colors and races were mingled together ; the Indian 
 beside the white boy, and the son of the poorest me¬ 
 chanic beside that of the richest lord. Teaching was 
 
ACADEMY. 
 
 195 
 
 gratis, and not limited to landscapes and figures, one 
 of the principal objects being to propagate amongst 
 the artists a general taste for elegance and beauty of 
 form, and to enliven the national industry. Plaster- 
 casts, to the amount of forty thousand dollars, were 
 sent out by the king of Spain, and as they possess in 
 the Academy various colossal statues of basalt and 
 porphyry, covered with Aztec hieroglyphics, it would 
 have been curious, as the same learned traveller re¬ 
 marks, to have collected these monuments in the 
 court-yard of the Academy, and compared the re¬ 
 mains of Mexican sculpture, monuments of a semi- 
 barbarous people, with the graceful creations of 
 Greece and Rome. 
 
 Let no one visit the Academy with these recollec¬ 
 tions or anticipations in his mind. . . . That the 
 simple and noble taste which distinguishes the Mexi¬ 
 can buildings, their perfection in the cutting and work¬ 
 ing of their stones, the chaste ornaments of the cap¬ 
 itals and relievos, are owing to the progress they made 
 in this very Academy, is no doubt the case. The re¬ 
 mains of these beautiful but mutilated plaster-casts, 
 the splendid engravings which still exist, would alone 
 make it probable ; but the present disorder, the 
 abandoned state of the building, the non-existence 
 of these excellent classes of sculpture and painting, 
 and above all, the low state of the fine arts in Mex¬ 
 ico, at the present day, are amongst the sad proofs, 
 if any were wanting, of the melancholy effects pro¬ 
 duced by years of civil war and of unsettled govern¬ 
 ment. . . . 
 
 The Holy Week is now approaching, and already 
 
196 
 
 APPROACH OF THE HOLY WEEK. 
 
 the Indians are to be seen bringing in the palm- 
 branches and the flowers for the altars, and they are 
 beginning to erect booths and temporary shops, and 
 to make every preparation for the concourse of people 
 who will arrive next Sunday from all the different 
 villages and ranchos, far and near. 
 
CHAPTER THE FOURTEENTH. 
 
 Palm Sunday—Holy Thursday — Variety of costumes—San 
 Francisco — Santo Domingo — Santa Teresa — Nuns — Stone 
 bust — The Academy — Religious procession — Pilgrimage to 
 the Churches — Santa Clara — Nun’s voice — Orange-trees and 
 rose-bushes — The Cathedral illuminated — Our Saviour in 
 chains — Good Friday — The great Square towards Evening — 
 Dresses of men, women and children — Approach of the Host 
 — Judas — Great Procession — Miserere — The square by 
 moonlight — A lonely walk — Sabado de gloria — Ball in con¬ 
 templation — Weekly Soirees — Embroidered muslins — A 
 Tertulia at home. 
 
 21st April, 
 
 On the morning of Palm Sunday, I went to the 
 
 Cathedral, accompanied by Mademoiselle de -- 
 
 daughter of the --Minister. We found it no easy 
 
 matter to make our way through the crowd, but at 
 last, by dint of patience and perseverance, and chang¬ 
 ing our place very often, we contrived to arrive very 
 near the great altar; and there we had just taken up 
 our position, when a disinterested man gave us a 
 friendly hint, that as the whole procession, with their 
 branches, must inevitably squeeze past the very spot 
 where we were, we should probably be crushed or 
 suffocated ; consequently we followed him to a more 
 convenient station, also close to the altar and defended 
 by the railing, where we found ourselves tolerably 
 well off. Two ladies, to whom he made the same 
 17* 
 
198 
 
 PALM SUNDAY. 
 
 proposition, and who rejected it, we afterwards 
 observed in a sad condition, their mantillas nearly 
 torn off and the palm branches sweeping across their 
 eyes. 
 
 In a short time, the whole Cathedral presented the 
 appearance of a forest of palm trees, (a la Birnam 
 wood) moved by a gentle wind ; and under each tree 
 a half-naked Indian, his rags clinging together with 
 wonderful pertinacity; long, matted, dirty black hair 
 both in men and women, bronze faces and mild un¬ 
 speaking eyes, or all with one expression of eagerness 
 to see the approach of the priests. Many of them 
 had probably travelled a long way, and the palms 
 were from tierra caliente, dried and plaited into all 
 manner of ingenious ways. Each palm was about 
 seven feet high, so as far to overshadow the head of 
 the Indian who carried it ; and whenever they are 
 blessed, they are carried home to adorn the walls of 
 their huts. The priests arrived, at length, in great 
 pomp, and also carrying palm branches. For four 
 mortal hours, we remained kneeling or sitting on the 
 floor, and thankful we were when it was all over, and 
 we could make our way once more into the fresh air. 
 
 From this day during the whole week, all business 
 is suspended, and but one train of thought occupies 
 all classes, from the highest to the lowest. The 
 peasants flock from every quarter, shops are shut, 
 churches are opened ; and the Divine Tragedy enact¬ 
 ed in Syria eighteen hundred years ago, is now 
 celebrated in land then undiscovered, and by the 
 descendants of nations sunk in Paganism for centu¬ 
 ries after that period. 
 
THE VIRGIN. 
 
 199 
 
 But amongst the lower classes, the worship is em¬ 
 phatically the worship of Her who Herself predicted, 
 “From henceforth all nations shall call me blessed.” 
 Before her shrines and at all hours, thousands are 
 kneeling. With faces expressive of the most intense 
 love and devotion, and with words of the most pas¬ 
 sionate adoration, they address the mild image of the 
 Mother of God. To the Son their feelings seem 
 composed of respectful pity, of humble but more dis¬ 
 tant adoration ; while to the Virgin they appear to 
 give all their confidence, and to look up to her as to 
 a kind and bountiful Queen, who, dressed in her 
 magnificent robes and jewelled diadem, yet mourning 
 in all the agony of her divine sorrows, has conde¬ 
 scended to admit the poorest beggar to participate 
 in her woe, whilst in her turn she shares in the afflic¬ 
 tions of the lowly, feels for their privations, and 
 grants them her all-powerful intercession. 
 
 On Holy Thursday nothing can be more pictur¬ 
 esque than the whole appearance of Mexico. No 
 carriages are permitted, and the ladies being on foot, 
 take the opportunity of displaying all the riches of 
 their toilette. On this day velvets and satins are 
 your only wear. Diamonds and pearls walk the 
 streets. The mantillas are white or black blonde; 
 the shoes white or colored satin. The petticoats are 
 still rather short, but it would be hard to hide such 
 small feet, and such still smaller shoes. “ II faut 
 souffrir pour etre belle,” but a quoi bon etre belle ? 
 if no one sees it. As for me, I ventured upon a lilac 
 silk of Palmyre’s, and a black mantilla. 
 
 The whole city was filled with picturesque figures. 
 
200 
 
 COSTUMES. 
 
 After the higher Senoras, were to be remarked the 
 common women, chiefly in clear white, very stiffly 
 starched muslins, some very richly embroidered, and 
 the petticoat trimmed with lace, white satin shoes, 
 and the dresses extremely short, which in them looks 
 very well. A reboso is thrown over all. Amongst 
 these were many handsome faces, but in a still lower 
 and more Indian class, with their gay colored petti¬ 
 coats, the faces were sometimes beautiful, and the 
 figures more upright and graceful ; also they invaria¬ 
 bly walk well, whilst many of the higher classes, from 
 tight shoes and want of custom, seem to feel pain 
 in putting their feet to the ground. 
 
 But none could vie with the handsome Poblana 
 peasants in their holiday dresses, some so rich and 
 magnificent, that, remembering the warning of our 
 ministerial friends, I am inclined to believe them 
 more showy than respectable. The pure Indians, 
 with whom the churches and the whole city is 
 crowded, are as ugly as can be imagined; a gentle, 
 dirty and much-enduring race. Still with their babies 
 at their backs, going along at their usual gentle trot, 
 they add much to the general effect of the coup d'ceil. 
 
 We walked to San Francisco about ten o’clock, 
 and the body of the church being crowded, went up 
 stairs to a private gallery with a gilded grating, be¬ 
 longing to the Countess de Santiago, and here we 
 had the advantage of seats, besides a fine view of 
 the whole. This church is very splendid, and the 
 walls were hung with canvass paintings representing 
 different passages of our Saviour’s life ; his entry in¬ 
 to Jerusalem, the woman of Samaria at the well, &c., 
 
SANTO DOMINGO. 
 
 201 
 
 which, with the palm trees, had a cool and oriental 
 effect. 
 
 Before the altar, which was dazzling with jewels, 
 was a representation of the Lord’s Supper, not in 
 painting, but in sculptured figures as large as life, 
 habited in the Jewish dresses. The bishops and 
 priests were in a blaze of gold and jewels. They 
 were assisted during the ceremony by the young 
 Count of Santiago. The music was extremely good, 
 and the whole effect impressive. We visited several 
 churches in the course of the day, and continued 
 walking until four o’clock, when we went to dine 
 
 with our friends the A-’s. After dinner, one of 
 
 their coachmen, a handsome Mexican, in a superb 
 di ■ess, all embroidered in gold, was called up stairs to 
 dance the Jarabe to us with a country girl. The 
 dance is monotonous, but they acquitted themselves 
 to perfection. 
 
 We then continued our pilgrimage through the 
 city, though, as the sun had not yet set, we reserved 
 our chief admiration until the churches should be 
 illuminated. One, however, we entered at sun-set, 
 which was worthy of remark — Santo Domingo. It 
 looked like a little Paradise, or a story in the Arabian 
 Nights. All the steps up to the altar were covered 
 with pots of beautiful flowers ; orange-trees, loaded 
 with fruit and blossom, and rose-bushes in full bloom, 
 glasses of colored water, and all kinds of fruit. Cages 
 full of birds, singing delightfully, hung from the wall, 
 and really fine paintings filled up the intervals. A 
 gay carpet covered the floor, and in front of the altar, 
 instead of the usual representation of the Saviour 
 
202 
 
 SANTA TERESA. 
 
 crucified, a little Infant Jesus, beautifully done in wax, 
 was lying amidst flowers, with little angels surround¬ 
 ing him. Add to this, the music of Romeo and Juliet, 
 and you may imagine that it was more like a scene in 
 an opera, than anything in a church. But certainly, as 
 the rays of the setting sun streamed with a rosy light 
 through the stained windows, throwing a glow over 
 the whole ; birds, and flowers, and fruit, paintings 
 and angels, it Avas the prettiest and most fantastic 
 scene I ever beheld, like something expressly got up 
 for the benefit of children. 
 
 We did not kneel before each altar for more than 
 three minutes, otherwise we should never have had 
 time even to enter the innumerable churches which 
 we visited in the course of the night. We next went 
 to Santa Teresa la Nueva, a handsome church, be¬ 
 longing to a convent of strict nuns, which was now 
 brilliantly illuminated ; and here, as in all the churches, 
 we made our way through the crowd with extreme diffi¬ 
 culty. The number of leperos was astonishing, greatly 
 exceeding that of well-dressed people. Before each 
 altar was a figure, dreadful in the extreme, of the 
 Saviour, as large as life, dressed in purple robe and 
 crown of thorns, seated on the steps of the altar, the 
 blood trickling from his wounds; each person, before 
 leaving the church, devoutly kneeling to kiss his hands 
 and feet. The nuns, amongst whom is a sister of 
 
 Senor A-s, sung behind the grating in the gallery 
 
 above, but were not visible. 
 
 One of the churches we visited, that of Santa 
 Teresa, called the Antigua, stands upon the site 
 formerly occupied by the palace of the father of the 
 
STONE BUST. 
 
 203 
 
 unfortunate Montezuma. It was here that the Span¬ 
 iards were quartered when they took Montezuma 
 prisoner, and here Cortes found and appropriated the 
 treasures of that family. In 1830, a bust of stone 
 was found in the yard of the convent, which the 
 workmen were digging up. Don Lucas Alaman, then 
 Minister of Exterior Relations, offered a compensation 
 to the nuns for the curious piece of antiquity, which 
 they gladly gave up to the government, on whose ac¬ 
 count he acted. It is said to be the idol goddess of 
 the Indians Centeotl, the goddess of medicine and 
 medicinal herbs, also known by the name of Temaz 
 calteci, or the “ Grandmother of the Baths.” A full 
 account is given of her in one of the numbers of the 
 “ Mosaico Mejicano,” as also of a square stone found 
 in the same place, beautifully carved, and covered 
 with hieroglyphical characters. 
 
 In the evening, towards the hour when the great 
 procession was expected, we went to the balconies of 
 the Academia, which command a fine view of the 
 streets by which it was to pass. Till it arrived, we 
 amused ourselves by looking over the beaux restes of 
 former days, the collections of painting and sculpture, 
 the fine plaster-casts that still remain, and the great 
 volumes of fine engravings. It was dark when the 
 procession made its appearance, which rendered the 
 effect less gaudy and more striking. The Virgin, the 
 Saints, the Holy Trinity, the Saviour in different pas¬ 
 sages of his life, imprisonment and crucifixion, were 
 carried past in succession, represented by figures, 
 magnificently dressed, placed on lofty scaffoldings of 
 immense weight, supported by different bodies of 
 
204 
 
 PROCESSION. 
 
 men. One is carried by the coachmen, another by 
 the aguadores (water-carriers,) a third by the carga- 
 dores (porters,) a Herculean race. 
 
 First arrived the favorite protectress of all classes, 
 the Virgin of Dolores, surmounted by a velvet cano¬ 
 py, seated on a glittering throne, attired in her sable 
 robes, her brow surmounted by glittering rays, and 
 contracted with an expression of agony ; of all repre¬ 
 sentations of the Virgin, the only one which is always 
 lovely, however rudely carved ; with that invariably 
 beautiful face of terrible anguish. Then followed the 
 Saviour, bearing the cross; the Saviour crucified, the 
 Virgin supporting the head of her dying son ; the 
 Trinity, (the Holy Spirit represented by a dove) ; all 
 the apostles, from St. Peter with the keys to Ju¬ 
 das with the money-bag ; and a long train of saints, 
 all brilliantly illuminated and attended by an amazing 
 crowd of priests, monks and laymen. However 
 childish and superstitious all this may seem, I doubt 
 whether it be not as well thus to impress certain re¬ 
 ligious truths on the minds of a people too ignorant 
 to understand them by any other process. By the 
 time the last saint and angel had vanished, the hour 
 was advanced, and we had still to visit the illumina¬ 
 ted churches. Being recommended to divest our¬ 
 selves of our ornaments before wandering forth 
 amongst the crowd, a matter of some moment to the 
 
 Senora A-, who wore all her diamonds, we left 
 
 our ear-rings, brooches, &c., in charge of the person 
 who keeps the Academia, and recommenced our pil¬ 
 grimage. 
 
 Innumerable were the churches we visited that 
 
SANTA CLARA. 
 
 205 
 
 evening ; the Cathedral, La Ensehanza, Jesus Maria, 
 Santa Clara, Santa Brigida, San Hipolito, La Encar- 
 nacion, the five churches of San Francisco, &c. &c., 
 a list without an end, kneeling for a short space of 
 time before each blazing altar, for the more churches 
 one visits, the more meritorious is the devotion. 
 The cathedral was the first we entered, and its mag¬ 
 nificence struck us with amazement. Its gold and 
 silver and jewels, its innumerable ornaments and holy 
 vessels, the rich dresses of the priests, all seemed 
 burning in almost intolerable brightness. The high 
 altar was the most magnificent; the second, with its 
 pure white marble pillars, the most imposing. 
 
 The crowd was immense, but we made our way 
 slowly through it to the foot of each altar, where the 
 people were devoutly kissing the Saviour’s hand or 
 the hem of his garment; or beating their breasts be¬ 
 fore the mild image of Our Lady of Grief. Each 
 church had vied with the other in putting forth all 
 its splendor of jewelry, of lights, of dresses, and of 
 music. 
 
 In the church of Santa Clara, attached to the con¬ 
 vent of the same name, small but elegant, with its 
 pillars of white marble and gold, one voice of angelic 
 sweetness was singing behind the grating, alone, and 
 in the midst of a most deathlike stillness. It sound¬ 
 ed like the notes of a nightingale, in a cage. I 
 could have listened for hours, but our time was lim¬ 
 ited, and we set off anew. Fortunately the evening 
 was delightful, and the moon shining brightly. We 
 visited about twenty churches in succession. In all, 
 the organ was pealing, the blaze of light overpower- 
 18 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
206 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 ing, the magnificence of jewels and crimson velvet 
 and silver and gold dazzling, the crowd suffocating, 
 the incense blinding. 
 
 The prettiest effect in every church was caused by 
 the orange-trees and rose-bushes, which covered the 
 steps of the altars, up to where the magnificence of 
 the altar itself blazed out; and the most picturesque 
 effect was produced by the different orders of monks 
 in their gowns and hoods, either lying on their faces 
 or standing ranged with torches, like figures carved 
 in stone. 
 
 In the passage leading to most of the churches 
 was a table, at which several ladies of the highest 
 rank sat collecting alms for the poor. The fair que- 
 tenses had not been very successful, and that chiefly 
 amongst the lower classes. The fatigue was terrible, 
 walking for so many hours on that bad pavement 
 with thin satin shoes; so that at length our feet 
 seemed to move mechanically, and we dropped on 
 our knees before each altar, like machines touched 
 by a spring, and rose again with no small effort. Of 
 all the churches we entered that night, the cathedral 
 was the most magnificent, but the most beautiful and 
 tasteful was San Francisco. The crowd there was 
 so dense, that we were almost carried off our feet, 
 and were obliged, in defiance of all rule, to take the 
 arms of our Caballeros. Still it was worth the trouble 
 of making our way through it, to see such a su¬ 
 perbly illuminated altar. It w r as now eleven o’clock, 
 and the crowd were breaking up, as the churches 
 are shut before midnight. In one corner of the mid¬ 
 dle aisle, near the door, was the representation of a 
 
GOOD FRIDAY. 
 
 207 
 
 prison, from which issued a stream of soft music, and 
 at the window was a figure of Christ in chains, his 
 eyes bandaged, and a Jew on each side ; the chains 
 hanging from his hands, and clanking as if with the 
 motion of his arms. The rush here was immense. 
 Numbers of people were kneeling before the window 
 of the prison, and kissing the chains and beating their 
 breasts with every appearance of contrition and de¬ 
 votion. This was the night before the Crucifixion, 
 and the last scene of the Holy Thursday. 
 
 We reached home hardly able to stand. I never 
 felt more dazzled, bewildered and sleepy, but I was 
 wakened by finding a packet of letters from home, 
 which brought back my thoughts, or rather carried 
 them away to very different lands. 
 
 On Good Friday, a day of sorrow and humiliation, 
 the scene in the morning is very different. The 
 great sacrifice is complete — the Immortal has died a 
 mortal death. The ladies all issue forth in mourning, 
 and the churches look sad and wan after their last 
 night’s brilliancy. The heat was intense. We went 
 to San Francisco, again to the Tribuna of the Count¬ 
 ess de Santiago, to see the Adoration and Procession 
 of the Cross, which was very fine. 
 
 But the most beautiful and original scene was pre¬ 
 sented towards sunset in the great square, and it is 
 doubtful whether any other city in the world could 
 present a coup d’oeil of equal brilliancy. Having 
 been offered the entree to some apartments in the 
 palace, we took our seats on the balconies, which 
 commanded a view of the whole. The Plaza itself, 
 even on ordinary days, is a noble square, and but for 
 its one fault, a row of shops called the Parian, which 
 
208 
 
 THE SQUARE. 
 
 breaks its uniformity, would be nearly unrivalled. 
 Every object is interesting. The eye wanders from 
 the Cathedral to the house of Cortes (the Monte 
 Pio,) and from thence to a range of fine buildings 
 with lofty arcades, to the west. From our elevated 
 situation, we could see all the different streets that 
 branch out from the square, covered with gay crowds 
 pouring in that direction to see another great proces¬ 
 sion, which was expected to pass in front of the 
 palace. Booths filled with refreshments, and covered 
 with green branches and garlands of flowers, were to 
 be seen in all directions, surrounded by a crowd 
 who were quenching their thirst with orgeat, chia,' 
 lemonade, or pulque. The whole square, from the 
 Cathedral to the Portales, and from the Monte Pio 
 to the Palace, was covered with thousands and tens 
 of thousands of figures, all in their gayest dresses, 
 and as the sun poured his rays down upon their 
 gaudy colors, they looked like armies of living tulips. 
 Here was to be seen a group of ladies, some with 
 black gowns and mantillas; others, now that their 
 church-going duty was over, equipped in velvet or 
 satin, with their hair dressed; and beautiful hair 
 they have ; some leading their children by the hand, 
 dressed .... alas ! how they were dressed ! Long 
 velvet gowns trimmed with blonde; diamond ear¬ 
 rings, high French caps befurbelowed with lace and 
 flowers, or turbans with plumes of feathers. Now 
 and then the head of a little thing that could hardly 
 waddle alone, might have belonged to an English 
 dowager duchess in her opera box. Some had ex- 
 
 1 A drink made of the seed of the plant of that name. 
 
INDIAN BABIES. 
 
 209 
 
 traordinary bonnets, also with flowers and feathers, 
 and as they toddled along, top heavy, one would 
 have thought they were little old women, till a 
 glimpse was caught of their lovely little brown faces 
 and black eyes. Now and then, a little girl, sim¬ 
 ply dressed with a short frock, and long black hair 
 plaited down and uncovered, would trip along, a very 
 model of grace amongst the small caricatures. The 
 children here are generally beautiful, their features 
 only too perfect and regular for the face “ to fulfil 
 the promise of its spring.” They have little color, 
 with swimming black or hazel eyes, and long lashes 
 resting on the clear pale cheek, and a perfect mass 
 of fine dark hair of the straight Spanish or Indian 
 kind plaited down behind. 
 
 As a contrast to the Sehoras, with their over¬ 
 dressed beauties, were the poor Indian women, trot¬ 
 ting across the square, their black hair plaited with 
 dirty red ribbon, a piece of woollen cloth wrapped 
 round them, and a little mahogany baby hanging 
 behind, its face upturned to the sky, and its head 
 going jerking along, somehow without its neck being 
 dislocated. The most resigned expression on earth 
 is that of an Indian baby. All the groups we had 
 seen promenading the streets the day before, were 
 here collected by hundreds ; the women of the shop¬ 
 keeper class, or it may be lower, in their smart 
 white embroidered gowns, with their white satin 
 shoes, and neat feet and ankles, and rebosos or 
 bright shawls thrown over their heads ; the peasants 
 and countrywomen, with their short petticoats of two 
 colors, generally scarlet and yellow; (for they are 
 18 * 
 
210 
 
 DRESSES. 
 
 most anti-quakerish in their attire.) thin satin shoes 
 and lace-trimmed chemises, or bronze-colored dam¬ 
 sels, all crowned with flowers, strolling along with 
 their admirers, and tingling their light guitars. And 
 above all, here and there a flashing Poblana, with a 
 dress of real value and much taste, and often with a 
 face and figure of extraordinary beauty ; especially 
 the figure; large and yet elancee, with a bold co¬ 
 quettish eye, and a beautiful little brown foot, shewn 
 off by the white satin shoe ; the petticoat of her 
 dress frequently fringed and embroidered in real 
 massive gold, and a reboso either shot with gold, 
 or a bright colored China crape shawl, coquettishly 
 thrown over her head. We saw several whose 
 dresses could not have cost less than five hundred 
 dollars. 
 
 Add to this motley crowd, men dressed a la Mex- 
 icaine, with their large ornamented hats and serapes, 
 or embroidered jackets, sauntering along, smoking 
 their cigars, leperos in rags, Indians in blankets, 
 officers in uniform, priests in their shovel hats, monks 
 of every order; Frenchmen exercising their wit 
 upon the passers-by, Englishmen looking cold and 
 philosophical, Germans gazing through their specta¬ 
 cles, mild and mystical, Spaniards seeming pretty 
 much at home, and abstaining from remarks ; and it 
 may be conceived that the scene at least presented 
 variety. Sometimes the tinkling of the bell an¬ 
 nounced the approach of JS'uestro Amo. Instantly 
 the whole crowd are on their knees, crossing them¬ 
 selves devoutly. Two men who were fighting below 
 the window, suddenly dropt down side by side. Dis- 
 
FIGURES OF JUDAS. 
 
 211 
 
 putes were hashed, flirtations arrested, and to the busy 
 hum of voices succeeded a profound silence. Only 
 the rolling of the coach-wheels and the sound of the 
 little bell were heard. 
 
 No sooner had it passed, than the talkers and the 
 criers recommenced with fresh vigor. The venders 
 of hot chestnuts and cooling beverages plied their 
 trade more briskly than ever. A military band struck 
 up an air from Semiramus; and the noise of the 
 innumerable matracos (rattles) some of wood and 
 some of silver, with which every one is armed during 
 the last days of the holy week, broke forth again as 
 if by magic, while again commenced the sale of the 
 Judases, fireworks in the form of that arch-traitor, 
 which are sold on the evening of Good Friday, and 
 let off on Saturday morning. Hundreds of these 
 hideous figures were held above the crowd, by men 
 who carried them tied together on long poles. An 
 ugly, misshapen monster they represent the betrayer 
 to have been. When he sold his Master for thirty 
 pieces of silver, did he dream that in the lapse of 
 ages, his effigies should be held up to the execration 
 of a Mexican mob, of an unknown people in undis¬ 
 covered countries beyond the seas? — A secret bar¬ 
 gain, perhaps made whisperingly in a darkened cham¬ 
 ber with the fierce Jewish rulers ; but now shouted 
 forth in the ears of the descendants of Montezuma 
 and Cortes ! 
 
 But the sound of a distant hymn rose on the air, 
 and shortly after there appeared, advancing towards 
 the square, a long and pompous retinue of mitred 
 priests, with banners and crucifixes and gorgeous 
 
212 
 
 CATHEDRAL. 
 
 imagery, conducting a procession in which figures 
 representing scenes concerning the death of our Sa¬ 
 viour, were carried by on platforms, as they were 
 the preceding evening. There was the Virgin in 
 mourning at the foot of the cross — the Virgin in 
 glory, — and more saints, and more angels — St. 
 Michael and the Dragon, &c. &c., a glittering and 
 innumerable train. Not a sound was heard as the 
 figures were carried slowly onwards in their splendid 
 robes, lighted by thousands of tapers, which mingled 
 their unnatural glare with the fading light of day. 
 
 As the miserere was to be performed in the cathe¬ 
 dral late in the evening, we went there, though with 
 small hopes of making our way through the tremen¬ 
 dous crowd. Having at length been admitted through 
 a private entrance per favor, we made our way into 
 the body of the church ; but the crowd was so intol¬ 
 erable, that we thought of abandoning our position, 
 when we were seen and recognised by some of 
 the priests, and conducted to a railed-off enclosure 
 near the shrine of the Virgin, with the luxury of a 
 Turkey carpet. Here, separated from the crowd, 
 we sat down in peace, on the ground. The gentle¬ 
 men were accommodated with high-backed chairs 
 beside some ecclesiastics; for men may sit on chairs 
 or benches in church, but women must kneel or 
 sit on the ground. Why ? “ Quien snbe ? ” “ Who 
 knows?” is all the satisfaction I have ever obtained 
 on that point. 
 
 The music began with a crash that wakened me 
 out of an agreeable slumber into which I had grad¬ 
 ually fallen ; and such discordance of instruments 
 
MISERERE. 
 
 213 
 
 and voices, such confusion worse confounded, such 
 inharmonious harmony, never before deafened mor¬ 
 tal ears. The very spheres seemed out of tune, and 
 rolling and crashing over each other. I could have 
 cried Miserere! with the loudest; and in the midst 
 of all the undrilled band, was a music-master, with 
 violin-stick uplifted, rushing desperately from one to 
 the other, in vain endeavoring to keep time, and fright¬ 
 ened at the clamor he himself had been instrumental 
 in raising ; like Phaeton entrusted with his unmanagea¬ 
 ble coursers. The noise was so great as to be really 
 alarming; and the heat was severe in proportion. 
 The calm face of the Virgin seemed to look re¬ 
 proachfully down. We were thankful when at the 
 conclusion of this stormy appeal for mercy, we were 
 able to make our way into the fresh air and soft 
 moonlight, through the confusion and squeezing at 
 the doors, where it was rumored that a soldier had 
 killed a baby with his bayonet. A bad place for poor 
 little babies — decidedly. 
 
 Outside, in the square, it was cool and agreeable. 
 A military band was playing airs from the Norma, 
 and the womankind were sitting on the stones of the 
 railing, or wandering about and finishing their day’s 
 work by a quiet flirtation au clair de la lune. 
 
 It was now eleven o’clock, and the pulquerias were 
 thrown open for the refreshment of the faithful, and 
 though hitherto much order had prevailed, it was not 
 likely to endure much longer; notwithstanding which, 
 we had the imprudence to walk unattended to our 
 own house at San Fernando. In the centre of the 
 city there seemed no danger. People were still walk- 
 
214 
 
 A LATE WALK. 
 
 ing, and a few still drinking at the lighted booths ; 
 but when we arrived at the lower part of the Ala¬ 
 meda, all was still, and as we walked outside under 
 the long shadows of the trees, I expected every mo¬ 
 ment to be attacked, and wished we were anywhere, 
 even on the silvery top of Popocatepetl! We passed 
 several crowded pulquerias, where some were drink¬ 
 ing and others drunk. Arrived at the arches, we saw 
 from time to time a suspicious blanketed figure half 
 hid by the shadow of the wall. A few doors from our 
 own domicile, was a pulque shop filled with leperos, 
 of whom some were standing at the door, shrouded 
 in their blankets. It seemed to me we should never 
 pass them, but we walked fast, and reached our door 
 in safety. Here we thundered in vain. The porter 
 was asleep, and for nearly ten minutes, we heard 
 voices within, male and female, ineffectually endeav¬ 
 oring to persuade the heavy-headed Cerberus to re¬ 
 linquish his keys. It would have been a choice mo¬ 
 ment for our friends, had any of them wished to 
 accost us ; but either they had not observed us, or 
 
 perhaps they thought that C-n walking so late 
 
 must have been armed ; or perhaps, more charitable 
 construction, they had profited by the solemnities of 
 the day. 
 
 We got in at last, and I felt thankful enough for 
 shelter and safety, and as wearied of the day’s per¬ 
 formances as you may be in reading a description of 
 them. 
 
 Next morning, Sabado de Gloria, I could not per¬ 
 suade myself to go as far as the Plaza, to see the 
 Iscariots explode. At a distance we listened to the 
 
A BALL IN CONTEMPLATION. 
 
 215 
 
 hissing and crackling of the fire-works, the ringing 
 of all the bells, and the thundering of artillery ; and 
 knew by the hum of busy voices, and the rolling of 
 carriages, that the Holy Week was numbered with 
 the past. . . . 
 
 We hear that it is in contemplation amongst the 
 English here, headed by their Minister, to give a ball 
 in the Mineria, to celebrate the marriage of Queen 
 Victoria, which will be turning these splendid halls 
 to some account. . . . 
 
 I have some intention of giving a series of weekly 
 soirees, but am assured that they will not succeed, 
 because hitherto such parties have failed. As a 
 reason, is given the extravagant notions of the 
 ladies in point of dress, and it is said that nothing 
 but a hall where they can wear their jewels and a 
 toilette therewith consistent, will please them ; that a 
 lady of high rank who had been in Madrid, having 
 proposed simple tertulias and white muslin dresses, 
 half the men in Mexico were ruined that year by the 
 embroidered French and India muslins bought by 
 their wives during this reign of simplicity; the idea 
 of a plain white muslin, a dress worn by any lepera, 
 never having struck them as possible. Nevertheless, 
 we can but make the attempt. 
 
 We propose going next week to Tulansingo, where 
 
 our friends the -have a country place, and from 
 
 thence we proceed to visit the mines of Real del 
 Monte. 
 
 23d. — On Monday we gave a Tertulia, which, 
 notwithstanding all predictions, went off remarkably 
 well, and consisted of nearly all the pleasantest people 
 
216 
 
 TERTULIA. 
 
 in Mexico. We had music, dancing and cards, and 
 at three in the morning, the German cotillon was still 
 in full vigor. Every one was disposed to be amused, 
 and, moreover, the young ladies were dressed very 
 simply ; most of them in plain white muslins. There 
 was but a small sprinkling of diamonds, and that 
 chiefly among the elderly part of the community 
 Still it is said that the novelty alone induced them to 
 come, and that weekly soirees will not succeed. We 
 shall try. Besides which, the Lady of the-Min¬ 
 
 ister proposes being At Home on Wednesday even¬ 
 ings ; the Lady of the-Minister takes another 
 
 evening; I, a third, and we shall see what can be 
 effected. 
 
LETTER THE FIFTEENTH. 
 
 Letter from the Archbishop-—Visit to the “ Encarnacion" — 
 Reception — Description — The Novices — Convent-supper — 
 Picturesque scene — Sonata on the Organ — Attempt at rob¬ 
 bery— Alarms of the household — Visit to San Agustin — 
 Anonymous letter — The Virgin de los Remedios — Visit to 
 the Chapel — The Padre — The Image — Anecdote of the large 
 pearl — A mine. 
 
 24th. 
 
 The Archbishop has not only granted me permission 
 to visit the convents, but permits me to take two 
 ladies along with me, of which I have been informed 
 by the Minister, Senor C——o, in a very amiable 
 note, just received, enclosing one from Senor Posada, 
 which I translate for your edification. 
 
 To His Excellency, Senor Don J. de D. C-o. 
 
 April 24 th, 1842. 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND AND COMPANION : 
 
 The Abbess and Nuns of the Convent of the En¬ 
 carnacion are now prepared to receive the visit of our 
 three pilgrims, next Sunday, at half past four in the 
 afternoon, and should that day not suit them, let them 
 mention what day will be convenient. 
 
 Afterwards we shall arrange their visit to the Con¬ 
 cepcion, Ensenanza Antigua, and Jesus Maria, which 
 
 19 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
218 THE “ ENCARNACION.” 
 
 are the best, and I shall let you know, and we shall 
 agree upon the days and hours most suitable. 
 
 I remain your affectionate friend and Cctpellan, 
 
 Manuel Posada. 
 
 27 tli. — Accordingly, on Sunday afternoon, we 
 drove to the Encarnacion, the most splendid and 
 richest convent in Mexico, excepting perhaps la Con¬ 
 cepcion. If it were in any other country, I might 
 mention the surpassing beauty of the evening, but as 
 except in the rainy season, which has not yet begun, 
 the evenings are always beautiful, the weather leaves 
 no room for description. The sky always blue, the 
 air always soft, the flowers always blossoming, the 
 birds always singing; Thomson never could have 
 written his “Seasons” here. We descended at the 
 convent gate, were admitted by the portress, and re¬ 
 ceived by several nuns, their faces closely covered 
 with a double crape veil. We were then led into 
 a spacious hall, hung with handsome lustres, and 
 adorned with various Virgins and Saints magnificently 
 dressed ; and here the eldest, a very dignified old 
 lady, lifted her veil, the others following her example, 
 and introduced herself as the Madre Vicaria; bring¬ 
 ing us many excuses from the old Abbess, who having 
 an inflammation in her eyes, was confined to her cell. 
 She and another reverend mother, and a group of 
 elderly dames, tall, thin and stately, then proceeded 
 to inform us, that the Archbishop had, in person, 
 given orders for our reception, and that they were 
 prepared to show us the whole establishment. 
 
 The dress is a long robe of very fine white casi- 
 
NUNS AND NOVICES. 
 
 219 
 
 mere, a thick black crape veil, and long rosary. The 
 dress of the novices is the same, only that the veil is 
 white. For the first half hour or so, I fancied, that 
 along with their politeness, was mingled a good deal 
 of restraint, caused perhaps by the presence of a 
 foreigner, and especially of an Englishwoman. My 
 companions they knew well; the Senorita --hav¬ 
 
 ing even passed some months there. However this 
 may have been, the feeling seemed gradually to wear 
 away. Kindness or curiosity triumphed ; their ques¬ 
 tions became unceasing ; and before the visit was 
 concluded, I was addressed as “ mi vida ” my life, by 
 the whole establishment. Where was I born ? Where 
 had I lived ? What convents had I seen ? Which 
 did I prefer, the convents in France, or those in Mex¬ 
 ico ? Which were largest ? Which had the best 
 garden ? &c., &c. Fortunately, I could, with truth, 
 give the preference to their convent, as to spacious¬ 
 ness and magnificence, over any I ever saw. 
 
 The Mexican style of building is peculiarly advan¬ 
 tageous for recluses ; the great galleries and courts 
 affording them a constant supply of fresh air, while 
 the fountains sound so cheerfully, and the garden in 
 this climate of perpetual spring affords them such a 
 constant source of enjoyment all the year round, that 
 one pities their secluded state much less here than in 
 any other country. 
 
 This convent is in fact a palace. The garden, 
 into which they led us first, is kept in good order, 
 with its stone walks, stone benches, and an ever- 
 playing and sparkling fountain. The trees were 
 bending with fruit, and they pulled quantities of the 
 
220 
 
 CONVENT GARDEN. 
 
 most beautiful flowers for us ; sweet pease and roses, 
 with which all gardens here abound, carnations, jas¬ 
 mine and heliotrope. It was a pretty picture to see 
 them wandering about, or standing in groups in this 
 high-walled garden, while the sun was setting behind 
 the hills, and the noise of the city was completely 
 excluded, everything breathing repose and content¬ 
 ment. 
 
 Most of the halls in the convent are noble rooms. 
 We visited the whole, from the refectory to the 
 botica, and admired the extreme cleanness of every¬ 
 thing, especially of the immense kitchen, which seems 
 hallowed from the approach even of a particle of 
 dust ; this circumstance partly accounted for by the 
 fact that each nun has a servant, and some have two ; 
 for this is not one of the strictest orders. The con¬ 
 vent is rich ; each novice at her entrance pays five 
 thousand dollars into the common stock. There are 
 about thirty nuns and ten novices. 
 
 The prevailing sin in a convent generally seems 
 to be pride ; 
 
 “ The pride that apes humility 
 
 and it is perhaps nearly inseparable from the con¬ 
 ventual state. Set apart from the rest of the world, 
 they, from their little world, are too apt to look down 
 with contempt upon all who do not belong to their 
 community, a contempt which may be mingled with 
 envy, or modified by pity, but must be unsuited to a 
 true Christian spirit. 
 
 The novices were presented to us — poor little en¬ 
 trapped things ! who really believe they will be let 
 
CONVENT SUPPER. 
 
 221 
 
 out at the end of a year if they should grow tired, as 
 if they would ever be permitted to grow tired ! The 
 two eldest and most reverend ladies are sisters, thin, 
 tall and stately, with high noses, and remains of 
 beauty. They have been in the convent since they 
 were eight years old, (which is remarkable, as sisters 
 are rarely allowed to profess in the same establish¬ 
 ment,) and consider La Encarnacion as a small piece 
 of heaven upon earth. There were some handsome 
 faces amongst them, and one whose expression and 
 eyes were singularly lovely, but truth to say, these 
 were rather exceptions to the general rule. 
 
 Having visited the whole building, and admired 
 one virgin’s blue satin and pearls, and another’s black 
 velvet and diamonds, sleeping holy infants, saints, 
 paintings, shrines and confessionals, having even 
 climbed up to the Azotea, which commands a mag¬ 
 nificent view, we came at length to a large hall, dec¬ 
 orated with paintings and furnished with antique 
 high-backed arm-chairs, where a very elegant supper, 
 lighted up and ornamented, greeted our astonished 
 eyes ; cakes, chocolate, ices, creams, custards, tarts, 
 jellies, blancmangers, orange and lemonade, and 
 other profane dainties, ornamented with gilt paper 
 cut into little flags, &c. I was placed in a chair 
 that might have served for a pope, under a holy 
 
 family ; the Sehora ——- and the Sehorita- on 
 
 either side. The elder nuns in stately array, occu¬ 
 pied the other arm-chairs, and looked like statues 
 carved in stone. A young girl, a sort of pension- 
 naire, brought in a little harp without pedals, and 
 while we discussed cakes and ices, sung different 
 19* 
 
222 
 
 THE ORGAN. 
 
 ballads with a good deal of taste. The elder nuns 
 helped us to everything, but tasted nothing them¬ 
 selves. The younger nuns and the novices were 
 grouped upon a mat a la Turque, and a more pic¬ 
 turesque scene altogether one could scarcely see. 
 
 The young novices, with their white robes, white 
 veils and black eyes, the severe and dignified rnadres 
 with their long dresses and mournful-looking black 
 veils and rosaries, the veiled figures occasionally flit¬ 
 ting along the corridor ; — ourselves in contrast, with 
 our worldly dresses and colored ribbands; and the 
 great hall lighted by one immense lamp that hung 
 from the ceiling — I felt transported three centuries 
 back, and half afraid that the whole would flit away, 
 and prove a mere vision, a waking dream. 
 
 A gossiping old nun, who hospitably filled my 
 plate with everything, gave me the enclosed flag cut 
 in gilt paper, which, together with her custards and 
 jellies, looked less unreal. They asked many ques¬ 
 tions in regard to Spanish affairs, and were not to 
 be consoled for the defeat of Don Carlos, which 
 they feared would be an end of the true religion in 
 Spain. 
 
 After supper, we proceeded up stairs to the choir, 
 (where the nuns attend public worship, and which 
 looks down upon the handsome convent church,) to try 
 the organ. I was set down to a Sonata of Mozart’s, 
 the servants blowing the bellows. It seems to me 
 that I made more noise than music, for the organ is 
 very old, perhaps as old as the convent, which dates 
 three centuries back. However, the nuns were 
 pleased, and after they had sung a hymn, we re- 
 
ROBBERS. 
 
 223 
 
 turned below. I was rather sorry to leave them, 
 and felt as if I could have passed some time there 
 very contentedly; but it was near nine o’clock, and 
 we were obliged to take our departure ; so having 
 been embraced very cordially by the whole com¬ 
 munity, we left the hospitable walls of the Encarna- 
 cion. 
 
 28 th. — Last evening we were sitting at home 
 
 very quietly, about ten o’clock, C-n, Monsieur de 
 
 •- of the - Legation and I, when A- 
 
 rushed into the room all dishevelled. “ Come quick¬ 
 ly, sir! Robbers are breaking open the kitchen 
 door! ” A succession of feminine shrieks in the 
 
 distance, added effect to her words. C-n jumped 
 
 up, ran for his pistols, gave one to Monsieur de-, 
 
 called up the soldiers, but no robbers appeared. The 
 kitchen-door was indeed open, and the trembling 
 galopina attested, that being in the kitchen alone, 
 dimly lighted by one small lamp, three men, all 
 armed, had entered, and had rushed out again on 
 hearing her give the alarm. We somewhat doubted 
 her assertions, but the next morning found that the 
 men had in fact escaped by the Azolea, a great as¬ 
 sistance to all Mexican depredators. At the end of 
 this row of houses, the people ran out and fired upon 
 them, but without effect. The house of the old 
 
 Countess of S—— F-has been broken into, her 
 
 porter wounded, report says killed, and her plate 
 carried off. In the mean time, our soldiers watch in 
 the kitchen, a pair of loaded pistols adorn the table, 
 a double-barrelled gun stands in the corner, and a 
 bull-dog growls in the gallery. This little passing 
 
224 
 
 FEARS. 
 
 visit to us was probably caused by the arrival of 
 some large boxes from London, especially of a very 
 fine harp and piano, both Erard's , which I had the 
 pleasure of seeing unpacked this morning, and which, 
 in spite of jolting and bad roads, have arrived in 
 perfect condition. 
 
 Thus far I had written, it being now the evening, 
 and I sitting alone, when a succession of shrieks 
 arose, even more awful than those which alarmed us 
 last night. At the same time the old galopina, her 
 daughter, and a French girl who lives here, rushed 
 shouting along the gallery ; not a word they said 
 comprehensible, but something concerning “ a robber 
 in black, with men at his back, who had burst open 
 the door.” At the noise, the whole household had 
 assembled. One ran this way, one ran that. A lit¬ 
 tle French teinturier, who it appeared had been 
 paying the maids a polite visit, seized the loaded 
 gun ; the footman took a pistol, and hid himself be¬ 
 hind the porter ; A-, like a second Joan of Arc, 
 
 appeared with a rusty sabre ; the soldiers rushed up 
 with their bayonets ; the coachman stood aloof with 
 nothing ; the porter led up the rear, holding a large 
 dog by the collar ; but no robber appears ; and the 
 girls are all sobbing and crying because we doubt 
 their having seen one. Galopina the younger, shed¬ 
 ding tears in torrents, swears to the man. Galopina 
 the elder, enveloped in hei reboso, swears to any 
 number of men ; and the recamerera has cried her¬ 
 self into a fit between fear and indignation. 
 
 Such is the agreeable state of things about nine 
 o’clock this evening, for one real attempt to enter 
 
ANONYMOUS LETTER. 
 
 225 
 
 the house, invariably gives rise to a thousand imag¬ 
 inary attacks and fanciful alarms. 
 
 After many attempts at walking, I have very 
 nearly abandoned it, but take a great deal of exer¬ 
 cise both on horseback and in the carriage, which 
 last, on account of the ill-paved condition of the 
 streets, affords rather more exercise than the former. 
 I drove out this morning, in an open carriage, with 
 the Senorita E——— to her country-house at San 
 Agustin, the gambling emporium. But the famous 
 annual fete does not take place till Whitsunday, and 
 the pretty country villas there are at present aban¬ 
 doned. We walked in the garden till the sun be¬ 
 came insupportable. The fragrance of the roses and 
 jasmine was almost overpowering. There are trees 
 of mille-flcur roses; heliotrope and honeysuckle 
 cover every pillar, and yellow jasmine trails over 
 everything. 
 
 Found on my return an anonymous letter, beg¬ 
 ging me to “ beware of my cook!” and signed 
 Fernandez. Having shown it to some gentlemen 
 who dined here, one thought it might be a plan of 
 the robbers to get rid of the cook, whom they con¬ 
 sidered in their way ; another, with more probability, 
 that it was merely a plan of the attentive Seiior Fer¬ 
 nandez to get the cook’s place for himself. . . . 
 
 We went lately to pay a visit to the celebrated 
 Virgin de los Remedies, the Gachupina, the Spanish 
 patroness, and rival of Our Lady of Guadalupe. 
 This virgin was brought over by Cortes, and when he 
 displaced the Indian idols in the great Temple of 
 Mexico, caused them to be broken in pieces, and the 
 
226 
 
 VIRGIN DE LOS REMEDIOS. 
 
 sanctuary to be purified, he solemnly placed there a 
 crucifix and this image of the virgin ; then kneeling 
 before it, gave solemn thanks to heaven, which had 
 permitted him thus to adore the Most High, in a 
 place so long profaned by the most cruel idolatries. 
 
 It is said that this image was brought to Mexico 
 by a soldier of Cortes’s army, called Yillafuerte, and 
 that the day succeeding the terrible Noche Triste, 
 it was concealed by him in the place where it was 
 afterwards discovered. At all events, the image dis¬ 
 appeared, and nothing further was known of it, until, 
 on the top of a barren and treeless mountain, in the 
 heart of a large maguey, she was found by a fortu¬ 
 nate Indian. Her restoration was joyfully hailed by 
 the Spaniards. A church was erected on the spot. 
 A priest was appointed to take charge of the mirac¬ 
 ulous image. Her fame spread abroad. Gifts of 
 immense value were brought to her shrine. A treas¬ 
 urer was appointed to take care of her jewels ; a 
 camarista to superintend her rich wardrobe. No 
 rich dowager died in peace until she had bequeathed 
 to Our Lady of Los Remedios her largest diamond, 
 or her richest pearl. In seasons of drought she is 
 brought in from her dwelling in the mountain, and 
 carried in procession through the streets. The Vice¬ 
 roy himself on foot used to lead the holy train. One 
 of the highest rank drives the chariot in which she is 
 seated. In succession she visits the principal con¬ 
 vents, and as she is carried through the cloistered 
 precincts, the nuns are ranged on their knees in 
 humble adoration. Plentiful rains immediately fol¬ 
 low her arrival. -, who accompanied us, has on 
 
HER SANCTUARY. 
 
 227 
 
 several occasions filled the office of her coachman, by 
 which means he has seen the interior of most of the 
 convents in Mexico. It is true that there came a 
 time, when the famous curate Hidalgo, the prime mover 
 of the Revolution, having taken as his standard an 
 image of the virgin of Guadalupe, a rivalry arose be¬ 
 tween her and the Spanish virgin ; and Hidalgo 
 having been defeated and forced to fly, the image of 
 the Virgin de los Remedios was conducted to Mexico 
 dressed as a General, and invoked as the Patroness 
 of Spain. Later still, the virgin herself was de¬ 
 nounced as a Gachupina ! her General’s sash boldly 
 
 torn from her by the valiant General --, who also 
 
 signed her passport, with an order for her to leave 
 the Republic. However, she was again restored to 
 her honors, and still retains her treasurers, her cam- 
 arista, and sanctum sanctorum. 
 
 Being desirous of seeing this celebrated image, we 
 
 set off, one fine afternoon, in a carriage of -’s 
 
 drawn by six unbroken horses, accompanied by him 
 and his lady, and performed four leagues of bad road 
 in an incredibly short space of time. The horses 
 themselves were in an evident state of astonishment, 
 for after kicking and plunging, and as they imagined 
 running "away, they found themselves driven much 
 faster than they had the slightest intention of going: 
 
 so after a little while they acknowledged in -’s 
 
 capital coachman, une main de maitre. 
 
 The mountain is barren and lonely, but the view 
 from its summit, is beautiful, commanding the whole 
 plain. The church is old and not very remarkable, 
 yet a picturesque object, as it stands in its gray soli- 
 
228 
 
 THE IMAGE* 
 
 tariness, with one or two trees beside it, of which 
 one without leaves was entirely covered with the 
 
 most brilliant scarlet flowers. Sehor - having 
 
 been the Virgin’s coachman, the Senora-being 
 
 the daughter of her camarista, and C--n the Min¬ 
 
 ister from the land of her predilection, we were not 
 astonished at the distinguished reception which we 
 met with from the reverend padre, the guardian of 
 the mountain. The church within is handsome; 
 and above the altar is a copy of the original Virgin. 
 After we had remained there a little while, we were 
 admitted into the Sanctum, where the identical Vir¬ 
 gin of Cortes, with a large silver maguey, occupies 
 her splendid shrine. The priest retired and put 
 on his robes, and then returning, and all kneeling 
 before the altar, he recited the credo. This over, he 
 mounted the steps, and opening the shrine where the 
 Virgin was encased, knelt down and removed her in 
 his arms. He then presented her to each of us in 
 succession, every one kissing the hem of her satin 
 robe. She was afterwards replaced with the same 
 ceremony. 
 
 The image is a wooden doll, about a foot high, 
 holding in its arms an infant Jesus, both faces evi¬ 
 dently carved with a rude penknife ; two holes for 
 the eyes, and another for the mouth. This doll was 
 dressed in blue satin and pearls, with a crown upon 
 her head and a quantity of hair fastened on to the 
 crown. No Indian idol could be much uglier. As 
 she has been a good deal scratched and destroyed in 
 the lapse of ages, C-n observed that he was as¬ 
 
 tonished they had not tried to restore her a little. 
 
A MINE. 
 
 229 
 
 To this the padre replied, that the attempt had been 
 made by several artists, each one of whom had sick¬ 
 ened and died. He also mentioned as one of her 
 miracles, that living on a solitary mountain, she had 
 never been robbed; but I fear the good padre is 
 somewhat oblivious , as this sacrilege has happened 
 more than once. On one occasion, a crowd of lepe- 
 ros being collected, and the image carried round to 
 be kissed, one of them, affecting intense devotion, 
 bitoff the large pearl that adorned her dress in front, 
 and before the theft was discovered, he had mingled 
 with the crowd and escaped. When reminded of 
 the circumstance, the padre said it was true, but that 
 the thief was a Frenchman. After taking leave of 
 the Virgin, we visited the padre in his own old house, 
 attached to the church, where his only attendant, as 
 usual among padres, is an old woman. 
 
 We then made our way on foot down a steep hill, 
 stopping to admire some noble stone arches, the re¬ 
 mains of an aqueduct built by the Spaniards for con¬ 
 veying water from one mountain to the other ; and 
 with an Indian for our guide, visited a newly-dis¬ 
 covered, though anciently-opened mine, said to be of 
 silver, and which had until lately been covered with 
 rubbish. We groped through it, and found vaults 
 
 and excavations and a deep pit of water. C-~n 
 
 got some Indians to break off pieces of stone for him, 
 which were put into a sack, and sent home for exam¬ 
 ination. We were so tired of our walk down this 
 steep and mountainous path, that on our return I 
 mounted a horse with a man’s saddle, belonging to 
 one of the servants, and contrived to keep on, while 
 20 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
230 
 
 RETURN. 
 
 it climbed up the perpendicular ascent. As this seem¬ 
 ed rather a selfish proceeding while the others walk¬ 
 ed, I invited the Sebora-to mount also in front, 
 
 which she did, and the path being almost perpendic¬ 
 ular, my head nearly touched the ground, which cer¬ 
 tainly made the seat not over safe or easy. How¬ 
 ever, we reached the top of the mountain in safety, 
 though somewhat exhausted with laughing, and were 
 driven home with the speed of a rail-car. 
 
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH. 
 
 Mexico in May — Leave Mexico for Santiago — Coacli of Charles 
 Tenth — Mexican Travelling — General Aspect of the coun¬ 
 try— Village of Santa Clara — Robbers’ House — Temples of 
 the Sun and Moon—San Juan — Mexican Posada—School- 
 house— Skulls — Hard fare — Travelling Dress-—Sopayuca 
 
 — Military Administrador — Santiago — Matadors and Picadors 
 
 — Evenings in the country — Dances — Mexican Songs — 
 Cempoala—Plaza de Toros — Skill of the Horsemen — Oma- 
 tusco — Accident — Tulansingo — Beautiful Garden — Mexi¬ 
 can Dishes — Fruits —Horses— Games of Forfeits — Ranche- 
 ra’s Dress — Young Girls and their admirers — Verses — 
 Knowledge of simple medicine — Indian Baths — Hidden 
 treasures — Anecdote. 
 
 Santiago, 6th May. 
 
 Before the setting in of the rainy season, we ac¬ 
 cepted of the invitation of our friends the-’s, to 
 
 visit their different haciendas, as in a short time the 
 roads will become nearly impassable. The country 
 in May is perhaps at its highest beauty, or even a 
 little earlier ; as already the great blow of roses is 
 nearly over; au reste there are roses all the year 
 round, though more in December than in July. And 
 this, by the way, is rather a source of disappointment 
 to the unwary traveller. He arrives in December, 
 and finds the gardens full of flowers. “ If this be 
 the case in December,” says he to himself, “ what 
 will it be in May?” May comes — the roses are 
 over, and the chief flowers in the gardens are dahlias 
 
232 
 
 COMMODIOUS CARRIAGE. 
 
 and marigolds, our autumnal flowers — September, 
 and these autumnal flowers still bloom, and with 
 them you have mignonette and roses, and then pinks 
 and jasmine, and other flowers. In fact there seems 
 to be no particular season for anything. 
 
 The weather at present is neither warm nor cold, 
 but colder here than in Mexico, and when it does 
 not rain, it is lovely. Already there has been much 
 rain, and the torrents are so swelled, that there was 
 some doubt as to whether our carriages could pass 
 them. 
 
 Yesterday, at five in the morning, we left Mexico, 
 in a coach once the property of Charles the Tenth. 
 “ Sic transit,” &.c.; and a most luxurious travelling 
 carriage is that of his Ex-Majesty, entirely covered 
 with gilding, save where the lilies of France sur¬ 
 mount the crown, (sad emblems of the fallen dynas¬ 
 ty !) lined with white satin, with violet-colored bind¬ 
 ing, the satin cushions most excellently stuffed; 
 large, commodious, and with a movement as soft as 
 that of a gondola. 
 
 A Frenchman bought it on a speculation, and 
 brought it here for sale. In former days, from its 
 gilding and showy appearance, it would have brought 
 any price; but the taste for gaudy equipages has 
 gone by since the introduction of foreign and es¬ 
 pecially of English carriages ; and the present pro¬ 
 prietor, who bought it for its intrinsic good qualities, 
 paid but a moderate sum for it. In this carriage, 
 drawn by six strong horses, with two first-rate coach¬ 
 men, and several out-riders well armed, we went 
 along at great speed. The drivers, dressed Mexican 
 
postilion’s dresses. 
 
 233 
 
 fashion, with all their accoutrements smart and new, 
 looked very picturesque. Jackets and trowsers of 
 deer-skin, the jackets embroidered in green, with 
 hanging silver buttons, the trowsers also embroidered 
 and slit up the side of the leg, trimmed with silver 
 buttons, and showing an under pair of unbleached 
 linen; these, with the postilions’ boots, and great 
 hats with gold rolls, form a dress which would faire 
 fureur, if some adventurous Mexican would venture 
 to display it on the streets of London. 
 
 We left the city by the gate of Guadalupe, and 
 passed by the great cathedral, our road lying over the 
 marshy plains once covered by the waters of Lake 
 Tezcuco. 
 
 To the east lay the great Lake, its broad waters 
 shining like a sheet of molten silver, and the two 
 great volcanoes ; the rising sun forming a crown of 
 rays on the white brow of Popocatapetl. 
 
 To describe once for all the general aspect of the 
 country on this side of the valley of Mexico ; suffice 
 it to say, that there is a universal air of dreariness, 
 vastness and desolation. The country is flat, but 
 always enlivened by the surrounding mountains, like 
 an uninteresting painting in a diamond frame ; and 
 yet it is not wholly uninteresting. It has a character 
 peculiar to itself, great plains of maguey, with its 
 huts with uncultivated patches, that have once been 
 gardens, still filled with flowers and choked with 
 weeds ; the huts themselves, generally of mud, yet 
 not unfrequently of solid stone, roofless and window¬ 
 less, with traces of having been fine buildings in for¬ 
 mer days ; the complete solitude, unbroken except 
 20 * 
 
234 
 
 SANTA CLARA. 
 
 by the passing Indian, certainly as much in a state of 
 savage nature as the lower class of Mexicans were 
 when Cortes first traversed these plains ; — with the 
 same character, gentle and cowardly, false and cun¬ 
 ning, as weak animals are apt to be by nature, and 
 indolent and improvident as men are in a fine cli¬ 
 mate ; ruins everywhere — here a Viceroy’s coun¬ 
 try palace, serving as a tavern, where the mules stop 
 to rest, and the drivers to drink pulque — there, a 
 whole village crumbling to pieces; roofless houses, 
 broken-down walls and arches, an old church — the 
 remains of a convent. ... For leagues, scarcely a 
 tree to be seen ; then a clump of the graceful Arbol 
 de Peru, or one great cypress — long strings of mules 
 and asses, with their drivers — pasture-fields with 
 cattle — then again whole tracts of maguey, as far 
 as the eye can reach ; no roads worthy of the name, 
 but a passage made between fields of maguey, bor¬ 
 dered by crumbling down low stone walls, causing a 
 jolting from which not even the easy movement 
 of Charles the Tenth’s coach can save us. But 
 the horses go at full gallop, accustomed to go through 
 and over everything. 
 
 The first village we saw was Santa Clara, to our 
 left, lying at the foot of some dark hills, with its 
 white church and flat-roofed or no-roofed houses. 
 There being no shade, frequently not a tree for 
 leagues, the sun and dust were disagreeable, and be¬ 
 came more so as the day advanced. Here it came 
 to pass, that travelling rapidly over these hot and 
 dusty plains, the wheels of our carriage began to 
 smoke. No house was in sight — no water within 
 
robbers’ house. 
 
 235 
 
 ken. It was a case of difficulty; when suddenly 
 
 --recollected that not far from thence was an old 
 
 rancho, a deserted farm-house, at present occupied 
 by robbers; and having ordered the coachman to 
 drive to within a few hundred yards of this house, he 
 sent a servant on horseback with a medio (fourpence) 
 to bring some water, which was treating the robbers 
 like honorable men. The man galloped off, and 
 shortly returned with a can full of water, which he 
 carried back when the fire was extinguished. 
 
 Meanwhile we examined, as well as we could, the 
 external appearance of the robbers’ domicile, which 
 was an old half-ruined house, standing alone on the 
 plain, with no tree near it. Several men, with guns, 
 were walking up and down before the house — sport¬ 
 ing-looking characters, but rather dirty — apparently 
 either waiting for some expected game, or going in 
 search of it. Women, with rebosos, were carrying 
 water, and walking amongst them. There were also 
 a number of dogs. The well-armed men who ac¬ 
 companied us, and the name of-, so well known 
 
 in these parts, that once when his carriage was sur¬ 
 rounded by robbers, he merely mentioned who he 
 was, and they retreated with many apologies for 
 their mistake, precluded all danger of an attack — 
 but woe to the solitary horseman or unescorted car¬ 
 riage that may pass thereby ! Nor, indeed, are they 
 
 always in the same mood ; for Seiior-’s houses 
 
 have been frequently attacked in his absence, and his 
 hacienda at Santiago once stood a regular siege, the 
 robbers being at length repulsed by the bravery of 
 his servants. 
 
236 
 
 PYRAMIDS. 
 
 We set off again au grand galop, drivers and 
 outriders giving, from time to time, the most extra¬ 
 ordinary shrieks to encourage the horses and to amuse 
 themselves, wild and shrill enough to frighten any 
 civilized quadruped. The road grew more pic¬ 
 turesque as we advanced, and at length our attention 
 was arrested by the sight of the two great pyramids, 
 which rise to the east of the town of San Juan 
 Teotihuacan, which are mentioned by Humboldt, 
 and have excited the curiosity and attention of every 
 succeeding traveller. These huge masses were con¬ 
 secrated to the sun and moon, which, in the time of 
 Cortes, were there represented by two vast stone 
 idols, covered with gold. The conquerors made use 
 of the gold, and broke the idols in pieces, by order 
 of the first bishop of Mexico. Unfortunately, our 
 time was too limited to give them more than a pass¬ 
 ing observation. Fragments of obsidian, in the form 
 of knives and of arrows, with which the priests opened 
 the breasts of their human victims, are still to be 
 found there; and numerous small idols made of 
 baked clay, are to be seen both there and in the 
 plains adjoining. The Indians rather dislike to guide 
 travellers to these pyramids, and their reluctance to 
 do so has increased the popular belief of the exist¬ 
 ence of great concealed treasures near or in them. 
 
 The whole plain on which these great pyramids 
 stand, was formerly called Micoatl, or the Pathway 
 of the Dead ; and the hundreds of smaller pyramids 
 which surround the larger ones, (the Temples of the 
 Sun and Moon,) are symetrically disposed in wide 
 streets, forming a great burial-plain, composed per- 
 
PYRAMIDS. 
 
 237 
 
 haps of the dust of their ancient warriors, an Aztec 
 or Toltec Pere-le-Chaise, or rather a roofless West¬ 
 minster Abbey. So few of the ancient teocallis now 
 remain, and these being nearly the only traces now 
 existing of that extraordinary race, we regretted the 
 more not being able to devote some time to their ex¬ 
 amination. Fanaticism and policy induced the 
 Spanish conquerors to destroy these heathen temples, 
 and when we recollect that at the time of the reform¬ 
 ation in civilized England, the most splendid Catholic 
 edifices were made level with the ground, in compli¬ 
 ance with the ferocious edict of John Knox, “ Ding 
 down the nests, and the rooks will fly off;” we can 
 have little wonder or blame to bestow upon Cortes, 
 who, in the excitement of a siege, gave orders for the 
 destruction of these blood-stained sanctuaries. In 
 the afternoon, we arrived at San Juan, a pretty vil¬ 
 lage, boasting of an inn, a school-house, an avenue 
 of fine trees, and a stream of clear water. It is true 
 that the inn is a Mexican posada, bearing as much 
 resemblance to what is generally called an inn, as an 
 hacienda does to an English country-house ; the 
 school-house, a room with a mud floor and a few dirty 
 benches, occupied by little ragged boys and girls ; but 
 the avenue is pretty, the grass as green as emeralds, 
 and the water crystal. We walked out while they 
 changed horses, of which Senor —— had fresh re¬ 
 lays of his own prepared all along the road ; and en¬ 
 tered the school-house, attracted by the noise and the 
 invitingly open door. The master was a poor, rag¬ 
 ged, pale, care-worn looking young man, seemingly 
 half-dinned with the noise, but very earnest in his 
 
238 
 
 SAN JUAN. 
 
 work. The children, all speaking at once, were 
 learning to spell out of some old bills of Congress. 
 Several moral sentences were written on the wall in 
 very independent orthography. C-n having re¬ 
 
 marked to the master that they were ill-spelt, he 
 seemed very much astonished, and even inclined to 
 doubt the fact. I thought it was one of those cases 
 where ignorance is bliss, and fear the observation may 
 have cost the young man a night’s rest. 
 
 A row of grinning skulls was ranged round the 
 wall of the church-yard, and the sexton, who gave us 
 admittance to the church, taking up one to shew it 
 off’, it all crumbled into dust, which filled the air like 
 a cloud. 
 
 At the posada they gave us rancid sheep’s milk, 
 
 cheese, and biscuits so hard that C-n asked the 
 
 host if they were made in the same year with the 
 church, at which he seemed mightily pleased, and 
 could not stop laughing till we got into the carriage. 
 
 Soon after leaving San Juan, we were met by the 
 
 Sehora de -, in an open carriage, coming with 
 
 her children to meet us, and though she had travel¬ 
 led since sunrise from her hacienda, she appeared as 
 if freshly dressed for an evening party ; her dress, 
 amber-colored crape, trimmed with white blonde, 
 short sleeves and decoltee; a set of beautiful Neapo¬ 
 litan strawberry-coral, set in gold, straw-colored satin 
 shoes, and a little China crape shawl, embroidered in 
 bright flowers ; her hair dressed and uncovered. 
 
 We stopped at their hacienda of Sopayuca, an old 
 house, standing solitarily in the midst of great fields 
 of maguey. It has a small deserted garden adjoining, 
 
SOPAYUCA. 
 
 239 
 
 amongst whose tangled bnshes a pretty little tame 
 deer was playing, with its half-startled look, and full 
 wild eye. We found an excellent breakfast prepared, 
 and here, for the first time, I conceived the possibility 
 of not disliking pulque. We visited the large build¬ 
 ings where it is kept, and found it rather refreshing, 
 with a sweet taste and a creamy froth upon it; and 
 with a much less decided odor than that which is sold 
 in Mexico. 
 
 This hacienda is under the charge of an adminis- 
 
 trador, to whom -pays a large annual sum, and 
 
 whose place is by no means a sinecure, as he lives in 
 perpetual danger from robbers. He is captain of a 
 troop of soldiers, and as his life has been spent in 
 “ persecuting robbers,” he is an object of intense 
 hatred to that free and independent body, and has 
 some thoughts of removing to another part of the 
 country, where he may be more tranquil. He gave 
 us a terrible account of these night attacks, of the 
 ineffectual protection afforded him by the government, 
 and of the nearly insuperable difficulties thrown in 
 the way of any attempt to bring these men to justice. 
 He lately told the President that he had some thoughts 
 of joining the robbers himself, as they were the only 
 persons in the Republic protected by the government. 
 The President, however, is not to blame in this mat¬ 
 ter. He has used every endeavor to check these 
 abuses ; and difficulties have been thrown in his way 
 from very unexpected sources. . . . 
 
 Apropos to which, the-Consul told us the 
 
 other day, that some time ago, having occasion to 
 consult Judge- upon an affair of importance, he 
 
240 
 
 SANTIAGO. 
 
 was shown into an apartment where that functionary 
 was engaged in conversation with some suspicious- 
 looking individuals, or rather who were above suspi¬ 
 cion, their appearance plainly indicating their call¬ 
 ing. On the table before him lay a number of guns, 
 swords, pistols, and all sorts of arms. The Judge 
 
 requested Monsieur de-to be seated, observing 
 
 that he was investigating a case of robbery commit¬ 
 ted by these persons. The robbers were seated, 
 smoking very much at their ease, and the Judge was 
 enjoying the same innocent recreation ; when his 
 cigar becoming extinguished, one of these gentle¬ 
 men taking his from his mouth, handed it to the 
 magistrate, who relighted his puro (cigar) at it, and re¬ 
 turned it with a polite bow. In short, they were com¬ 
 pletely hand in glove. 
 
 In the evening we reached Santiago, where we 
 now are, about eighteen leagues from Mexico, a large 
 house, in a wild-looking country, standing in solitary 
 state, with hills behind, and rocks before it, and sur¬ 
 rounded by great uncultivated plains and pasture- 
 fields. Everything is en grand in this domain. There 
 is a handsome chapel and sacristy; a plaza de toros ; 
 hundreds of horses and mules ; and between depend- 
 ientes and hangers-on, we sat down, thirty or forty 
 people, to dinner. 
 
 1th .—The very day of our arrival, Bernardo the 
 Matador, with his men, arrived from Mexico, bring¬ 
 ing their superb dresses with them, for the purpose 
 of giving us a country bull fight. As an hacienda 
 of this kind is an immense empty house, without fur¬ 
 niture or books, all the amusement is to be found 
 
MEXICAN DANCES. 
 
 241 
 
 either out of doors, or in large parties in the house ; 
 and the unostentatious hospitality which exists in this 
 and some other of the old families, is a pleasing rem¬ 
 nant of Spanish manners and habits, now falling into 
 disuse, and succeeded by more pretension to refine¬ 
 ment, and less of either real wealth or sociability. 
 
 In the evening here, all assemble in a large hall; 
 
 the Senora de - playing the piano ; while the 
 
 whole party, agents, dependientes, major-domo, coach¬ 
 men, matadors, picadors and women-servants, assem¬ 
 ble, and perform the dances of the country ; jarabes, 
 aforrados, enanos, palomos, zapateros, &c., &c. It 
 must not be supposed, that in this apparent mingling 
 of ranks between masters and servants, there is the 
 slightest want of respect on the part of the latter; on 
 the contrary, they seem to exert themselves, as in 
 duty bound, for the amusement of their master and 
 his guests. There is nothing republican in it; no 
 feeling of equality ; as far as I have seen, that feeling 
 does not exist here, except between people of the 
 same rank. It is more like some remains of the feu¬ 
 dal system, where the retainers sat at the same table 
 with their chief, but below the salt. The dances are 
 monotonous, with small steps and a great deal of 
 shuffling, but the music is rather pretty, and some 
 of the dancers were very graceful and agile ; and if 
 it were not invidious to make distinctions, we might 
 particularize Bernardo the Matador, the head coach¬ 
 man, and a handsome peasant girl, with a short scarlet 
 and yellow petticoat, and a foot and ankle a la Vestris. 
 They were all very quiet, but seemed in a state of 
 21 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
242 
 
 ORIGINAL SONGS. 
 
 intense enjoyment; and some of the men accom¬ 
 panied the dancers on the guitar. 
 
 First the player strikes up in quick time, and the 
 dancer performs a quick movement; then the musi¬ 
 cian accompanies the music with his voice, and the 
 dancer goes through some slow steps. Such is the 
 case in the Aforrado or Lining, a curious nom de 
 tendresse, expressive, I suppose, of something soft and 
 well wadded. The words are as follows: 
 
 1 . 
 
 Aforrado de mi vida ! 
 
 Como estas, como te va ? 
 Como has pasado la noche, 
 No has tenido novedad ? 
 
 2 . 
 
 Aforrado de mi vida! 
 
 Yo te qnisiera cantar, 
 Pero mis ojos son tiernos, 
 Y empazaran d llorar. 
 
 3 . 
 
 De Guadalajara vengo, 
 Lideando con un soldado, 
 Solo por venir a ver 
 A mi jarabe aforrado. 
 
 4 . 
 
 Y vente con migo 
 Y yo te dar6 
 Zapatos de raso 
 Color de caf6. 
 
TRANSLATION. 
 
 243 
 
 Of these poetical sublimities, a translation at once 
 literal and metrical, would we think, damp the spirit 
 of a Coleridge. 
 
 1. 
 
 Lining of my life ! 
 
 How are you ? how do you do ? 
 
 How have you passed the night ? 
 
 Have you met with nothing new ? 
 
 2 . 
 
 Lining of my life ! 
 
 To you I should like to sing ; 
 
 But that my eyes are weak, 
 
 And tears might begin to spring. 
 
 3 . 
 
 From Guadalajara lighting, 
 
 With a soldier I came on, 
 
 My well-lined sweet-syrup 
 I came to see you alone. 
 
 4 . 
 
 And come then with me, 
 
 And I will give thee 
 Such fine shoes of satin, 
 
 The color of tea. 
 
 It is coffee, but you will excuse the poetical license. 
 The music married to this “ immortal verse,” I have 
 learned by ear, and shall send you. In the “ enanos ” 
 (the dwarfs) the dancer makes himself little, every 
 time the chorus is sung. 
 
 l. 
 
 All ! que bonitos 
 Son los enanos 
 Los chiquititos 
 Y Mejicanos. 
 
244 
 
 THE “ ENANOS.” 
 
 2 . 
 
 Sale la linda, 
 
 Sale la fea, 
 
 Sale el enano 
 Con su zalea. 
 
 3 . 
 
 Los enanitos 
 Se enojaron 
 Porque A las enanas 
 Les pellizearon. 
 
 There are many more verses, but I think you will 
 find these quite satisfactory. “ Ah ! how pretty are 
 the dwarfs, the little ones, the Mexicans ! Out comes 
 the pretty one, out comes the ugly one, out comes 
 the dwarf, with his jacket of skin. The little he- 
 dwarfs were angry, because some one pinched the 
 she-dwarfs.” There is another called the Toro, of 
 which the words are not very interesting; and the 
 Zapatero, or shoemaker was very well danced by a 
 gentleman who accompanied himself, at the same 
 time, on the guitar. 
 
 Yesterday morning, we set off in a burning sun, 
 over a perfect Egyptian desert, to visit the famous 
 arches of Cempoala, a magnificent work, which we 
 were told had greatly excited the admiration of Mr. 
 Poinsett when in this country. This aqueduct, the 
 object of whose construction was to supply these 
 arid plains with water, was the work of a Spanish 
 Franciscan friar, and has never been entirely con¬ 
 cluded. We travelled about six leagues, and sate 
 there for hours, looking up at the great stone arches, 
 which seem like a work of giants. 
 
COUNTRY BULL-FIGHTS. 
 
 245 
 
 In the afternoon, we all rode to the Plaza de 
 Toros. The evening was cool, our horses good, the 
 road pretty and shady, and the plaza itself a most 
 picturesque enclosure, surrounded by lofty trees. 
 Chairs were placed for us on a raised platform ; and 
 the bright green of the trees, the flashing dresses of 
 the toreadors, the roaring of the fierce bulls, the 
 spirited horses, the music and the cries; the Indians 
 shouting from the trees up which they had climbed ; 
 all formed a scene of savage grandeur, which for a 
 short time at least is interesting. Bernardo was 
 dressed in blue satin and gold; the picadors in 
 black and silver ; the others in maroon-colored satin 
 and gold. All those on foot wear knee-breeches and 
 white silk stockings, a little black cap with rib¬ 
 bons, and a plait of hair streaming down behind. 
 The horses were generally good, and as each new 
 adversary appeared, seemed to participate in the en¬ 
 thusiasm of their riders. One bull after another was 
 driven in roaring, and as here they are generally 
 fierce, and their horns not blunted as in Mexico, it is 
 a much more dangerous affair. The bulls were not 
 killed, but were sufficiently tormented. One stuck 
 full of arrows and fireworks, all adorned with ribbons 
 and colored paper, made a sudden spring over an 
 immensely high wall, and dashed into the woods. 
 I thought afterwards of this unfortunate animal, 
 how it must have been wandering alone all night, 
 bellowing with pain, the concealed arrows piercing 
 its flesh, and looking like gay ornaments; 
 
 “ So, when the watchful shepherd, from the blind, 
 
 Wounds with a random shaft the careless hind, 
 
 21 * 
 
246 
 
 THE LASO. 
 
 Distracted with her pain she flies the woods, 
 Bounds o’er the lawn, and seeks the silent floods — 
 With fruitless care ; for still the fatal dart 
 Sticks in her side, and rankles in her heart.” 
 
 If the arrows had stuck too deep, and that the bull 
 could not rub them off against the trees, he must have 
 bled to death. Had he remained, his fate would 
 have been better, for when the animal is entirely 
 exhausted they throw him down with a laso, and 
 pulling out the arrows, put ointment on the wounds. 
 
 The skill of the men is surprising; but the most 
 curious part of the exhibition was when a coachman 
 
 of-s, a strong, handsome Mexican, mounted on 
 
 the back of a fierce bull, which plunged and flung 
 himself about as if possessed by a legion of demons, 
 and forced the animal to gallop round and round the 
 arena. The bull is first caught by the laso, and 
 thrown on his side, struggling furiously. The man 
 mounts while he is still on the ground. At the same 
 moment the laso is withdrawn, and the bull starts 
 up, maddened by feeling the weight of his unusual 
 burden. The rider must dismount in the same way, 
 the bull being first thrown down, otherwise he would 
 be gored in a moment. It is terribly dangerous, for 
 if the man were to lose his seat, his death is nearly 
 certain ; but these Mexicans are superb riders. A 
 monk, who is attached to the establishment, seems 
 an ardent admirer of these sports, and his presence is 
 useful, in case of a dangerous accident occurring, 
 which is not unfrequent. 
 
 The amusement was suddenly interrupted by sud¬ 
 den darkness, and a tremendous storm of rain and 
 
PLAINS OF APAN. 
 
 247 
 
 thunder, in the midst of which we mounted our 
 horses, and galloped home. 
 
 Tulansingo -8th. 
 
 Another bull-fight last evening ! It is like pulque ; 
 one makes wry faces at it at first, and then begins to 
 like it. One thing we soon discovered ; which was 
 that the bulls, if so inclined, could leap upon our 
 platform, as they occasionally sprang over a wall 
 twice as high. There was a part of the spectacle 
 rather too horrible. The horse of one of the pica¬ 
 dors was gored, his side tom up by the bull’s horns, 
 and in this state, streaming with blood, he was forced 
 to gallop round the circle. 
 
 We spent one day in visiting Omatusco, an ha¬ 
 cienda belonging to the Senora T-a, situated in 
 
 the plains of Apan, and famous for the superior excel¬ 
 lence of its pulque. The organos, the nopal, and great 
 fields of maguey, constitute the chief vegetation for 
 many miles round. The hacienda itself, a fine large 
 building, stands lonely and bleak in the midst of 
 magueys. A fine chapel, left unfinished since her 
 husband’s death, attracted our attention, by its sim¬ 
 ple architecture and unpretending elegance. It is 
 nearly impossible to conceive anything more lonely 
 than a residence here must be; or in fact in any of 
 the haciendas situated on these great plains of 
 Otumba and Apan. 
 
 This morning we set off for Tulansingo, in four 
 carriages and six, containing the whole family, our¬ 
 selves, maids, and children, padre and nursery gov¬ 
 erness ; relays being placed all along the road, which 
 we traversed at full gallop. But in crossing some 
 
248 
 
 TULANSINGO. 
 
 great pasture-fields, the drivers of two of the car¬ 
 riages began to race ; one of the horses fell and threw 
 the postilion ; the carriage itself was overturned, and 
 though none of the inmates were injured, the poor 
 mozo was terribly wounded in his head and legs. No 
 assistance being near, he changed places with one of 
 the men on horseback, and was brought on slowly. 
 
 About three in the afternoon, we arrived at Tulan- 
 singo, rather an important little city in its way, and 
 which has been the theatre of many revolutionary 
 events; with various streets and shops, a handsome 
 church ; alcaldes, a prefect, &c. There appear to be 
 some few good houses and decent families, and clean, 
 small shops, and there are pretty, shady walks in the 
 environs ; and though there are also plenty of miser¬ 
 able dwellings and dirty people, it is altogether rather 
 
 a civilized place. The house of-, which stands 
 
 within a court-yard, and is the house par excellence 
 is very handsome, with little furniture, but with some 
 remnants of luxury. The dining-hall is a noble room, 
 with beautiful Chinese paper, opening into a garden, 
 which is the boast of the Republic, and is indeed 
 singularly pretty, and kept in beautiful order, with 
 gravel walks and fine trees, clear tanks and sparkling 
 fountains, and an extraordinary profusion of the most 
 beautiful flowers, roses especially. There is some¬ 
 thing extremely oriental in its appearance, and the 
 fountains are ornamented with China vases and Chi¬ 
 nese figures of great value. Walking along under 
 arches formed by rose bushes, a small column of 
 water spouted forth from each bush, sprinkling us all 
 over with its shower. But the prettiest thing in the 
 
PUCHERO. 
 
 249 
 
 garden is a great tank of clear water, inclosed on 
 three sides by a Chinese building, round which runs 
 a piazza with stone pillars, shaded by a drapery of 
 white curtains. Comfortable, well-cushioned sofas 
 are ranged along the piazza, which opens into a large 
 room, where one may dress after bathing. It is the 
 prettiest and coolest retreat possible, and entirely 
 surrounded by trees and roses. Here one may lie at 
 noon-day, with the sun and the world completely 
 shut out. They call this an English garden, than 
 which it rather resembles the summer retreat of a 
 sultan. 
 
 When we arrived, we found dinner laid for forty 
 persons, and the table ornamented, by the taste of 
 the gardener, with pyramids of beautiful flowers. 
 
 I have now formed acquaintance with many Mexi¬ 
 can dishes ; mole, (meat stewed in red chile), boiled 
 nopal, fried bananas, green chile, &c. Then we in¬ 
 variably have frijoles, (brown beans stewed,) hot tor¬ 
 tillas — and this being in the country, pulque is the 
 universal beverage. In Mexico, tortillas and pulque 
 are considered unfashionable, though both are still to 
 be met with occasionally, in some of the best old 
 houses. They have here a most delicious species of 
 cream cheese, made by the Indians, and ate with 
 virgin honey. I believe there is an intermixture of 
 goats’ milk in it; but the Indian families who make 
 it, and who have been offered large sums for the re¬ 
 ceipt, find it more profitable to keep their secret. 
 
 Every dinner has puchero immediately following 
 the soup ; consisting of boiled mutton, beef, bacon, 
 fowls, garbanzos (a white bean), small gourds, pota- 
 
350 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 toes, boiled pears, greens, and any other vegetables; 
 a piece of each put on your plate at the same time, 
 and accompanied by a sauce of herbs or tomatoes. 
 
 As for fruits, we have mameys, chirimoyas, gra- 
 naditas, white and black zapotes ; the black, sweet, 
 with a green skin and a black pulp, and with black 
 stones in it; the white resembling it in outward ap¬ 
 pearance and form, but with a white pulp, and the 
 kernel, which is said to be poisonous, is very large, 
 round and white. It belongs to a larger and more 
 leafy tree than the black zapote, and grows in cold 
 or temperate climates; whereas the other is a native 
 of tierra caliente. Then there is the chicozapote, of 
 the same family, with a whitish skin and a white or 
 rose-tinged pulp; this also belongs to the warm re¬ 
 gions. The capulin, or Mexican cherry ; the mango, 
 of which the best come from Orizaba and Cordova; 
 the cayote, &c. Of these I prefer the chirimoya, 
 zapote bianco, granadita and mango; but this is a 
 matter of taste. 
 
 12 th. — We have spent some days here very plea¬ 
 santly ; riding amongst the hills in the neighborhood, 
 exploring caves, viewing waterfalls, and climbing on 
 foot or on horseback, wherever foot or horse could 
 penetrate. No habits to be worn in these parts, as 
 I found from experience, after being caught upon a 
 gigantic maguey, and my gown torn in two. It is 
 certainly always the wisest plan to adopt the customs 
 of the country one lives in. A dress either of stuff, 
 such as merino, or of muslin, as short as it is usually 
 worn, a reboso tied over one shoulder, and a large 
 straw hat, is about the most convenient costume that 
 
GAMES. 
 
 251 
 
 can be adopted. The horses are small, but strong, 
 spirited and well made; generally unshod, which 
 they say makes the motion more agreeable ; and 
 almost all, at least all ladies’ horses, are taught the 
 paso, which I find tiresome for a continuance, though 
 a good paso-horse will keep up with others that gal¬ 
 lop, and for a longer time. 
 
 The great amusement here in the evening is play¬ 
 ing at juegos de prendas, games with forfeits, which I 
 recommend to all who wish to make a rapid improve¬ 
 ment in the Spanish tongue. Last night, being de¬ 
 sired to name a forfeit for the padre, I condemned 
 him to dance the jarabe, of which he performed a 
 few steps in his long gown and girdle, with equal 
 awkwardness and good-nature. We met to-day the 
 prettiest little ranchera, a farmer’s wife or daughter, 
 riding in front of a mozo on the same horse, their 
 usual mode, dressed in a short embroidered muslin 
 petticoat, white satin shoes, a pearl necklace and ear¬ 
 rings, a reboso, and a large round straw hat. The 
 ladies sit their horse on a contrary side to our fash¬ 
 ion. They have generally adopted English saddles, 
 but the farmers’ wives frequently sit in a sort of chair, 
 which they find much more commodious. 
 
 Some country ladies, who attended mass in the 
 chapel this morning, were dressed in very short clear 
 white muslin gowns, very much starched, and so dis¬ 
 posed as to show two under petticoats, also stiffly 
 starched, and trimmed with lace ; their shoes colored 
 satin. Considered as a costume of their own, I be¬ 
 gin to think it rather pretty. The oldest women 
 here or in Mexico, never wear caps; nothing but 
 
252 
 
 YOUNG GIRLS. 
 
 their own gray hair, sometimes cut short, sometimes 
 turned up with a comb, and not unusually tied be¬ 
 hind in a pig-tail. There is no attempt to conceal 
 the ravages of time. . . . 
 
 It appears to me, that amongst the young girls 
 here there is not that desire to enter upon the cares 
 of matrimony, which is to be observed in many other 
 countries. The opprobrious epithet of old maid is 
 unknown. A girl is not the less admired because 
 she has been ten or a dozen years in society; the 
 most severe remark made on her is that she is hard 
 to please. No one calls her passee, or looks out for 
 a newer face to admire. I have seen no courting of 
 the young men either in mothers or daughters; no 
 match-making mammas, or daughters looking out for 
 their own interests. In fact, young people have so 
 few opportunities of being together, that Mexican 
 marriages must be made in Heaven, for I see no op¬ 
 portunity of bringing them about upon earth. The 
 young men when they do meet with young ladies in 
 society, appear devoted to and very much afraid of 
 them. I know but one lady in Mexico who has the 
 reputation of having manoeuvred all her daughters 
 into great marriages; but she is so clever, and her 
 daughters were such beauties, that it can have cost 
 her no trouble. As for flirtation, the name is un¬ 
 known, and the thing. 
 
 I have been taking lessons in the Indian dances 
 
 from Doha R-a; they are not ungraceful, but 
 
 lazy and monotonous. . . . 
 
 On every door in this house, there is a printed 
 paper to the following effect; — 
 
VERSES. 
 
 253 
 
 “ Quien a esta casa da luz ? Jesus. 
 
 “ Quien la llena de alegria ? Maria. 
 
 “ Y quien la abraza en la fe ? Jose. 
 
 “ Luego bien claro se ve 
 “ Q,ue siempre habra contricion, 
 
 “ Teniendo en la corazon, 
 
 “ A Jesus, Maria y Jose. 
 
 “ Who gives light to this house ? Jesus. 
 
 “ Who fdls it with joy ? Mary. 
 
 “ Who kindles faith in it ? Joseph. 
 
 “ Then we see very clearly 
 “ That there will always be contrition, 
 
 “ Keeping in our hearts, 
 
 “ Jesus, Mary and Joseph. 
 
 » These are written in verse, and below: “ The 
 most Illustrious Bishop of Monte-Rey, Don Fray 
 Jose de Jesus Maria Balaunzaran, hereby ordains and 
 grants, along with the Bishops of Puebla, Durango, 
 Valledolid and Guadalajara, two hundred days of In¬ 
 dulgence to all those who devoutly repeat the above 
 ejaculation, and invoke the sweet names of Jesus, 
 Mary and Joseph.” . . . The people here have 
 certainly a poetical vein in their composition. Every¬ 
 thing is put into verse — sometimes doggerel, like the 
 above, (in which luz rhyming with Jesus shows that 
 the z is pronounced here like an s') occasionally a 
 little better, but always in rhyme. 
 
 We went this evening to visit the Countess del 
 
 -, who has a house in the village. Found her in 
 
 bed, feverish, and making use of simple remedies, 
 22 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
254 
 
 PHAKMACY. 
 
 such as herbs, the knowledge and use of which have 
 descended from the ancient Indians to the present 
 lords of the soil. The Spanish historians who have 
 written upon the conquest of Mexico, all mention 
 the knowledge which the Mexican physicians had of 
 herbs. It was supposed by these last, that for every 
 infirmity there was a remedy in the herbs of the 
 field ; and to apply them according to the nature of 
 the malady, was the chief science of these primitive 
 professors of medicine. Much which is now used in 
 European pharmacy is due to the research of Mexi¬ 
 can doctors ; such as sarsaparilla, jalep, friar’s rhu¬ 
 barb, mechoacan, &c. ; also various emetics, anti¬ 
 dotes to poison, remedies against fever, and an 
 infinite number of plants, minerals, gums and simple 
 medicines. As for their infusions, decoctions, oint¬ 
 ments, plasters, oils, &c., Cortes himself mentions 
 the wonderful number of these which he saw in the 
 Mexican market for sale. From certain trees they 
 distilled balsams ; and drew a balsamic liquid both 
 from a decoction of the branches, and from the bark 
 steeped in water. Bleeding and bathing were their 
 other favorite remedies. The country people breath¬ 
 ed a vein with a maguey-point, and when they could 
 not find leeches, substituted the prickles of the Amer¬ 
 ican hedgehog. 
 
 Besides bathing in the rivers, lakes, tanks and foun¬ 
 tains, they used a bath which is still to be seen in 
 many Indian villages, and which they call the temez- 
 calli. It is made of unbaked bricks; its form is that 
 of a baker’s oven, about eight feet wide and six high ; 
 the pavement rather convex, and lower than the sur- 
 
INDIAN BATH. 
 
 255 
 
 face of the soil. A person can enter this bath only 
 on his knees. Opposite the entry is a stone or brick 
 stove, its opening towards the exterior of the bath, 
 with a hole to let out the smoke. Before the bath 
 is prepared, the floor inside is covered with a mat, on 
 which is placed a jar of water, some herbs and leaves 
 of corn. The stove is then heated, until the stones 
 which unite it with the bath, become red hot. 
 When the bather enters, the entry is closed, and the 
 only opening left, is a hole at the top of the vault, 
 which, when the smoke of the oven has passed 
 through, is also shut. They then pour water upon 
 the red hot stones, from which a thick vapor arises, 
 which fills the temezcalli. The bather then throws 
 himself on the mat, and drawing down the steam 
 with the herbs and maize, wets them in the tepid 
 water of the jar, and if he has any pain, applies them 
 to the part affected. This having produced perspi¬ 
 ration, the door is opened and the well-baked patient 
 comes out and dresses. For fevers, for bad colds, 
 for the bite of a poisonous animal, this is said to be 
 a certain cure; also for acute rheumatism. 
 
 For the cure of wounds, the Spaniards found the 
 Mexican remedies most efficacious. Cortes himself 
 was cured by one of their doctors of a severe wound 
 in the head, received at Otumba, through which we 
 lately passed. For fractures, for humors, for every¬ 
 thing they had their remedy ; sometimes pulverizing 
 the seeds of plants, and attributing much of their 
 efficacy to the superstitious ceremonies and prayers 
 which they used while applying them, especially 
 those which they offered up to Tzapotlatenan, the 
 goddess of medicine. 
 
256 
 
 BURIED TREASURE. 
 
 A great deal of this knowledge is still preserved 
 amongst their descendants, and considered effica¬ 
 cious. For every illness there is an herb, for every 
 accident a remedy. Baths are in constant use, al¬ 
 though these temezcallis are confined to the Indians. 
 In every family there is some knowledge of simple 
 medicine, very necessary in haciendas especially, 
 where no physician can possibly be procured. 
 
 There is a hill upon-’s property, said to con¬ 
 
 tain much buried treasure. There are many tradi¬ 
 tions here of this concealed Indian wealth, but very 
 little gold has been actually recovered from these 
 mountain-tombs. Buried gold has occasionally come 
 to light; not by researches in the mountains, for few 
 are rash enough to throw away their money in search 
 of what would probably prove an imaginary treasure ; 
 but by accident — in the ruins of old houses, where 
 their proprietors had deposited them for safety in 
 some period of revolution ; perhaps no later than at 
 the time of the Spanish expulsion. 
 
 Some years ago, an old and very poor woman, 
 rented a house in the environs of Mexico, as old and 
 wretched as herself, for four reals a week. It had 
 an old broken up stone patio, (inner court-yard) 
 which she used occasionally to sweep with a little 
 old broom. One day she observed two or three 
 stones in this patio, larger and more carefully put 
 together than the others, and the little old woman 
 being a daughter of Eve by some collateral branch, 
 poked down and worked at the stones, until she was 
 able to raise them up ; when lo ! and behold, she 
 discovered a can full of treasure; no less than five 
 
ANECDOTE. 
 
 257 
 
 thousand dollars in gold! Her delight and her 
 fright were unbounded; and being a prudent old 
 lady, she determined in the first place to leave the 
 house, and next, to bring in her treasure poquito a 
 poquito, (little by little,) to a room in Mexico, keep¬ 
 ing the old house as a sort of bank. She did so ; 
 took a nice room, and instead of sleeping on a petate, 
 (mat) as she had hitherto done, bought herself a 
 little bedstead, and even a mattress ; treated herself 
 not only to chocolate, but to a few bottles of good 
 wine ! Such extraordinary luxury could not fail to 
 excite suspicion. She was questioned by her neigh¬ 
 bors, and at length entrusted her secret to their 
 keeping. History says, that notwithstanding this, 
 she was not robbed, and was allowed to enjoy her 
 good fortune in peace. It is difficult to credit such 
 a miracle in this land of picking and stealing, but 
 my authority is beyond impeachment. 
 
 . . . Whilst I write on these irrelevant matters, I 
 am warned that the coaches are at the door, and 
 that we are about setting off for Tepenacasco, an¬ 
 other hacienda of Senor-’s, a few leagues from 
 
 this. 
 
 22' 
 
LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH. 
 
 Arrival at Tepenacasco—Lake with wild duck — Ruined ha¬ 
 cienda— Sunset on the plains — Troop of asses — Ride by 
 moonlight — Leave Tepenacasco — San Miguel — Description 
 
 — Thunder storm—Guasco— Journey to Real del Monte — 
 English road — Scenery — Village of Real — Count de Regia 
 
 — Director’s house—English breakfast — Visit to the Mines 
 
 — Mining speculations — Grand scenery — Visit to Regia — 
 The Cascade — The Storm — Loneliness — A journey in 
 storm and darkness — Return to Tepenacasco — Journey to 
 Sopayuca — Narrow escape — Famous Bull — Return to Mex¬ 
 ico. 
 
 Tepenacasco. 
 
 This is a fine wild scene. The house stands entirely 
 alone ; not a tree near it. Great mountains rise be¬ 
 hind it, and in every other direction, as far as the 
 eye can reach, are vast plains, over which the wind 
 comes whistling fresh and free, with nothing to im¬ 
 pede its triumphant progress. In front of the house 
 is a clear sheet of water, a great deep square basin 
 for collecting the rain. These jagueys, as they are 
 called, are very common in Mexico, where there are 
 few rivers, and where the use of machines for raising 
 water, is by no means general as yet. There is no 
 garden here, but there are a few shrubs and flowers 
 in the inner court-yard. The house inside is hand¬ 
 some, with a chapel, and a patio, which is occasion- 
 
TEPENACASCO. 
 
 259 
 
 ally used as a plaza de toros. The rooms are well 
 fitted up, and the bedroom walls are covered with a 
 pretty French paper, representing scenes of Swiss 
 rural life. There are great outhouses, stables for the 
 mules and horses, and stone barns for the wheat and 
 barley, which, together with pulque, form the produce 
 of this hacienda. 
 
 We took a long ride this morning to visit a fine 
 lake, where there are plenty of wild duck and turtle. 
 The gentlemen took their guns, and had tolerable 
 sport. The lake is very deep, so that boats have 
 sailed on it, and several miles in circumference, with 
 a rivulet flowing from it. Yet with all this water, 
 the surrounding land, not more than twenty feet 
 higher, is dry and sterile, and the lake is turned to no 
 account; either from want of means or of hydraulic 
 knowledge. However, C-n having made some ob¬ 
 
 servation on this subject, the proprietor of the lake and 
 of a ruined house standing near, which is the very pic¬ 
 ture of loneliness and desolation, remarked in reply ; 
 that from this estate to Mexico, the distance is thirty- 
 six leagues; that a load of wheat costs one real a 
 league, and moreover the alcaba, the duty which has 
 to be paid at the gates of Mexico, so that it would 
 bring no profit if sent there ; while in the surround¬ 
 ing district there is not sufficient population to con¬ 
 sume the produce ; so that these unnecessary and 
 burthensome taxes, the thinness of the population 
 and the want of proper means of transport, impede 
 the prosperity of the people, and check the progress 
 of agriculture. 
 
 I had a beautiful horse, but half broke, and which 
 
260 
 
 LAKE WITH WILD DUCK. 
 
 took fright and ran off with me. I got great credit 
 for keeping my seat so well, which I must confess 
 was more through good fortune than skill. The day 
 was delightful, the air exhilarating, and the blue sky 
 perfectly cloudless as we galloped over the plains; 
 but at length the wind rose so high that we dis¬ 
 mounted, and got into the carriage. We sat by the 
 shores of the lake, and walked along its pebbly mar¬ 
 gin, watching the wild duck as they skimmed over 
 its glassy surface ; and returned home in a magnifi¬ 
 cent sunset ; the glorious god himself a blood-red 
 globe, surrounded by blazing clouds of gold and 
 crimson. 
 
 In the evening, a troop of asses were driven across 
 the plain, and led round to the back of the house ; 
 and we were all called out in haste, and each de¬ 
 sired to choose one of the long-eared fraternity for 
 our particular use. Some had saddles, and some had 
 none, but we mounted to the number of thirty per¬ 
 sons, followed by a cavalcade of little ragged boys 
 armed with sticks and whips. My ass was an obsti¬ 
 nate brute, whom I had mistakenly chosen, for his 
 sleek coat and open countenance, but by dint of 
 being lashed up, he suddenly set off at full gallop, 
 and distanced all the others. Such screaming, and 
 laughing and confusion ! and so much difficulty in 
 keeping the party together ! It was nearly dark 
 when we set off; but the moon rose, her silver disk 
 lighting up the hills and the plains ; the wind fell, 
 and the night was calm and delightful. We rode 
 about six miles, to a pretty little chapel with a cross, 
 that gleamed amongst the trees in the moonlight, by 
 
SAN MIGUEL. 
 
 261 
 
 the side of a running stream. Here we dismounted, 
 and sat by the brink of the little sparkling rivulet, 
 while the deep shadows came stealing over the 
 mountains, and all aroundwas still, and cool and si¬ 
 lent ; all but the merry laughter of our noisy caval¬ 
 cade. We returned about eleven o’clock, few acci¬ 
 dents having occurred. Doha R-a had fallen 
 
 once. Doha M- had crushed her foot against 
 
 her neighbor’s ass. The padre was shaken to a 
 jelly, and a learned senator, who was of the party, 
 declared he would never recover from that night’s 
 jolting. To-morrow we shall set off for Real del 
 Monte. 
 
 \lth. — After mass in the chapel, we left Tepena- 
 casco about seven o’clock ; and travelled (I believe by 
 a short cut) over rocks and walls, torrents and fields 
 of maguey, all in a heavy carriage with six horses. 
 Arriving in sight of walls, the mozos gallop on and 
 tear them down. Over the mountain-torrents or 
 barrancas, they dash boldly, encouraging the horses 
 by the wildest shrieks. 
 
 We stopped at San Miguel, a country house be¬ 
 longing to the Count de Regia, the former proprietor 
 of the mines which we were about to visit; the most 
 picturesque and lovely place imaginable, but entirely 
 abandoned ; the house comfortless and out of repair. 
 We wandered through paths cut in the beautiful 
 woods, and by the side of a rivulet that seems to 
 fertilize everything through which it winds. We 
 climbed the hills, and made our way through the 
 tangled luxuriance of trees and flowers; and in the 
 midst of hundreds of gaudy blossoms, I neglected 
 
262 
 
 STORM. 
 
 them all upon coming to a grassy slope covered with 
 daisies and buttercups. We even found some haw¬ 
 thorn bushes. It might be English scenery, were it 
 not that there is a richness in the vegetation unknown 
 in England. But all these beautiful solitudes are 
 abandoned to the deer that wander fearlessly amongst 
 the woods, and the birds that sing in their branches. 
 While we were still far from the house, a thunder¬ 
 storm came on. When it rains here, the windows 
 of heaven seem opened, and the clouds pour down 
 water in floods; the lightning also appears to me 
 peculiarly vivid, and many more accidents occur 
 from it here than in the north. We were drenched in 
 five minutes, and in this plight resumed our seats in 
 the carriage, and set oft' for Gunsco (a village where 
 we were to pass the night) in the midst of the pelting 
 storm. In an hour or two the horses were wading 
 up to their knees in water, and we arrived at the 
 pretty village of Guasco, in a most comfortless con¬ 
 dition. There are no inns in these parts, but we 
 were hospitably received by a widow lady, a friend 
 of -’s. 
 
 The Sehora de-, in clear muslin and lace, with 
 
 satin shoes, was worse off than I in mousseline de 
 laine and brodequins ; nevertheless, I mean to adopt 
 the fashion of the country tomorrow, when we are 
 to rise at four, to go on to Real del Monte; and try 
 the effect of travelling with clear gown, satin petti¬ 
 coat and shoes ditto; because, “ when one is in 
 Rome,” &,c. The storm continues with such una¬ 
 bated violence, that we must content ourselves with 
 contemplating the watery landscape from the win¬ 
 dows. 
 
ENGLISH ROAD. 
 
 263 
 
 Tepenacasco. 
 
 Rose in Guasco at four o’clock, dressed by can¬ 
 dle light, took chocolate, and set off for Real del 
 Monte. After we had travelled a few leagues, tole¬ 
 rably cold, we rejoiced when the sun rose, and dis¬ 
 pelling the mist, threw his cheerful light over moun¬ 
 tain and wood. The trees looked green and re¬ 
 freshed, after their last night’s bath; the very rocks 
 were sparkling with silver. The morning was per¬ 
 fectly brilliant, and every leaf and flower was glit¬ 
 tering with the rain-drops not yet dried. The car¬ 
 riage ascended slowly the road cut through the 
 mountains by the English company ; a fine and use¬ 
 ful enterprise; the first broad and smooth road I 
 have seen as yet in the Republic. Until it was 
 made, hundreds of mules daily conveyed the ore 
 from the mines, over a dangerous mountain path to 
 the hacienda of Regia, a distance of six or seven 
 leagues. We overtook wagons conveying timber to 
 the mines of Real, nine thousand feet above the level 
 of the sea. 
 
 The scenery was magnificent. On one side, moun¬ 
 tains covered with oak and pine, and carpeted by the 
 brightest-colored flowers; goats climbing up the per¬ 
 pendicular rocks, and looking down upon us from 
 their vantage-ground ; fresh clear rivulets, flinging 
 themselves from rock to rock, and here and there 
 little Indian huts perched amongst the cliffs ; on the 
 other, the deep valley with its bending forests and 
 gushing river ; while far above, we caught a glimpse 
 of Real itself, with its sloping roofs and large church, 
 
264 
 
 HEAL DEL MONTE. 
 
 standing in the very midst of forests and mountains. 
 We began to see people with fair hair and blue eyes; 
 and one individual, with a shock of fiery red hair and 
 an undeniable Scotch twang, I felt the greatest incli¬ 
 nation to claim as a countryman. The Indians here 
 looked cleaner than those in or near Mexico, and 
 were not more than half naked. The whole country 
 here, as well as the mines, formerly belonged to the 
 Count de Regia, who was so wealthy, that when his 
 son, the present Count, was christened, the whole 
 party walked from his house to the church, upon 
 ingots of silver. The Countess having quarrelled 
 with the Vice-Q.ueen, sent her, in token of recon¬ 
 ciliation, a white satin slipper, entirely covered with 
 large diamonds. The Count invited the King of Spain 
 to visit his Mexican territories, assuring him that the 
 hoofs of his Majesty’s horse should touch nothing but 
 solid silver from Vera Cruz to the capital. This might 
 be a bravado ; but a more certain proof of his wealth 
 exists in the fact, that he caused two ships of the line, 
 of the largest size, to be constructed in Havana at 
 his expense, made of mahogany and cedar, and pre¬ 
 sented them to the King. The present Count was, 
 as I already told you, married to the beautiful daugh¬ 
 ter of the Guera Rodriguez. 
 
 We arrived at Real del Monte about nine o’clock, 
 and drove to the Director’s house, which is extremely 
 pretty, commanding a most beautiful and extensive 
 view, and where we found a large fire burning in 
 the grate ; — very agreeable, as the morning was 
 still somewhat chill, and which had a look of home 
 and comfort that made it still more acceptable. We 
 
MINES. 
 
 265 
 
 were received with the greatest cordiality by the Di¬ 
 rector Mr. Rule, and his lady, and invited to partake 
 of the most delicious breakfast that I have seen for 
 a long while ; a happy melange of English and Mex¬ 
 ican. The snow-white table-cloth, smoking tea-urn, 
 hot rolls, fresh eggs, coffee, tea and toast looked very 
 much a l’Anglaise, while there were numbers of sub¬ 
 stantial dishes a l’Espagnole, and delicious fresh cream 
 cheeses, to all which, our party did ample justice. 
 
 After breakfast, we went out to visit the mines, and 
 it was curious to see English children, clean and pret¬ 
 ty, with their white hair and rosy cheeks, and neat 
 straw bonnets, mingled with the little copper-colored 
 Indians. We visited all the different works ; the 
 apparatus for sawing, the turning-lathe, foundery, 
 &c.; but I regretted to find that we could not de¬ 
 scend into the mines. We went to the mouth of the 
 shaft called the Dolores, which has a narrow opening, 
 and is entered by perpendicular ladders. The men 
 go down with conical caps on their heads, in which 
 is stuck a lighted tallow candle. In the great shaft, 
 called Terreros, they descend, by means of these lad¬ 
 ders, to the depth of a thousand feet, there being 
 platforms at certain distances, on which they can rest. 
 We were obliged to content ourselves with seeing 
 them go down, and with viewing and admiring all 
 the great works which English energy has established 
 here ; the various steam-engines, the buildings for the 
 separation and washing of the ore ; the great stores, 
 work-shops, offices, &c. Nearly all the workmen are 
 British, and of these, the Scotch are preferred. Most 
 of the miners are Indians, who work in companies, 
 
 23 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
266 
 
 MINING COMPANIES. 
 
 and receive in payment the eighth part of the pro¬ 
 ceeds. The Director gave us some specimens of 
 silver from the great heaps where they lie, sparkling 
 like genii’s treasure. 
 
 Although I have not descended into these mines, 
 I might give you a description of them by what I 
 have heard, and fill my paper with arithmetical fig¬ 
 ures, by which you might judge of the former and 
 the present produce. I might tell you how Don Lu¬ 
 cas Alaman went to England, and raised, as if by 
 magic, the enthusiasm of the English ; how one for¬ 
 tune after another has been swallowed up in the 
 dark, deep gulf of speculation ; how expectations 
 have been disappointed ; and how the great cause of 
 this is the scarcity of quicksilver, which has been 
 paid at the rate of one hundred and fifty dollars per 
 quintal in real cash, when the same quantity was 
 given at credit by the Spanish government for fifty 
 dollars ; how heaps of silver lie abandoned, because 
 the expense of acquiring quicksilver renders it wholly 
 unprofitable to extract it; and I might repeat the 
 opinion of those persons by whom I have heard the 
 subject discussed; who express their astonishment 
 that such being the case, an arrangement is not made 
 with the country which is the almost exclusive pos¬ 
 sessor of the quicksilver mines, by which it might be 
 procured at a lower rate, and this great source of 
 wealth not thrown away. But for all these matters 
 I refer you to Humboldt and Ward, by whom they are 
 scientifically treated, and will not trouble you with 
 superficial remarks on so important a subject. In 
 fact I must confess that my attention was frequently 
 
REGLA. 
 
 267 
 
 attracted from the mines and the engines and the 
 works of man, and the discussions arising therefrom, 
 to the stupendous natural scenery by which we were 
 surrounded ; the unexplored forests that clothe the 
 mountains to their very summits, the torrents that 
 leapt and sparkled in the sunshine, the deep ravines, 
 the many-tinted foliage, the bold and jutting rocks. 
 All combines to increase our admiration of the boun¬ 
 ties of nature to this favored land, to which she has 
 given “ every herb bearing seed, and every tree that 
 is pleasant to the sight and good for food,” while 
 her veins are rich with precious metals; the useful 
 and the beautiful offered with unsparing hand. 
 
 We were obliged to leave Real about two o’clock, 
 having a long journey to perform before night, as we 
 had the intention of returning to sleep at Tepena- 
 casco. We took leave of our hospitable entertain¬ 
 ers, and again resumed our journey over these fine 
 roads, many parts of which are blasted from the 
 great rocks of porphyry; and as we looked back at 
 the picturesque colony glistening in the sun, could 
 hardly believe the prophecies of our more experi¬ 
 enced drivers, that a storm was brewing in the sky, 
 which would burst forth before evening. We were 
 determined not to believe it, as it was impossible to 
 pass by the famous hacienda and ravine of Regia 
 without paying them at least a short visit. 
 
 This stupendous work of the Mexican miners in 
 former days, is some leagues to the south of Real del 
 Monte, and is said to have cost many millions of dol¬ 
 lars. One should view it as we did, in a thunder¬ 
 storm, for it has an air of vastness and desolation, 
 
268 
 
 THUNDER STORM. 
 
 and at the same time of grandeur, that shows well 
 amidst a war of the elements. Down in a steep bar¬ 
 ranca, encircled by basaltic cliffs, it lies ; a mighty 
 pile of building, which seems as if it might have been 
 constructed by some philosophical giant or necro¬ 
 mancer ; — so that one is not prepared to find there an 
 English director and his wife, and the unpoetic com¬ 
 forts of roast mutton and potatoes ! 
 
 All is on a gigantic scale ; the immense vaulted 
 store-houses for the silver ore, the great smelting- 
 furnaces and covered buildings where we saw the 
 process of amalgamation going on ; the water-wheels, 
 in short, all the necessary machinery for the smelting 
 and amalgamation of the metal. We walked to see 
 the great cascade, with its rows of basaltic columns, 
 and found a seat on a piece of broken pillar beside the 
 rushing river, where we had a fine view of the lofty 
 cliffs, covered with the wildest and most luxuriant 
 vegetation ; vines trailing themselves over every 
 broken shaft; moss creeping over the huge disjoint¬ 
 ed masses of rock, and trees overhanging the precip¬ 
 itous ravine. The columns look as if they might have 
 been the work of those who, on the plains of Shinar, 
 began to build the city, and the tower whose top 
 was to reach to heaven. 
 
 But, as we sat here, the sky suddenly became 
 overcast; great black masses of cloud collected over 
 our heads, and the rumbling of thunder in the dis¬ 
 tance gave notice of an approaching storm. We 
 had scarcely time to get under' shelter of the direc¬ 
 tor’s roof, when the thunder began to echo loudly 
 amongst the rocks, and was speedily followed by 
 
COUNT DE B.EGLA. 
 
 269 
 
 torrents of rain. It was a superb storm. The light¬ 
 ning flashed amongst the trees, the wind howled 
 furiously, while 
 
 “ Far along 
 
 From peak to peak, the rattling crags among 
 Leapt the live thunder.” 
 
 After resting and dining amidst a running accompa¬ 
 niment of splashing rain, roaring wind, and deep- 
 toned thunder, we found that it was in vain to wait 
 for a favorable change in the weather ; and certainly 
 with less experienced drivers, it would have been 
 anything but safe to have set off amidst the darkness 
 of the storm, down precipitous descents and over 
 torrents swelled by the rain. The Count de Regia, 
 who, attracted by the plentiful supply of water in this 
 ravine, conceived the idea of employing part of his 
 enormous fortune in the construction of these colossal 
 works, must have had an imagination on a large 
 scale. The English directors, whose wives consent 
 to bury themselves in such abysses, ought to feel 
 more grateful to them than any other husbands to¬ 
 wards their sacrificing better halves. For the men, 
 occupied all day amongst their workmen and ma¬ 
 chinery, and returning late in the evening to dine 
 and sleep, there is no great self-immolation; but a 
 poor woman, living all alone, in a house fenced in by 
 gigantic rocks, with no other sound in her ears from 
 morning till night but the roar of thunder or the 
 clang of machinery, had need, for her personal com¬ 
 fort, to have either a most romantic imagination, so 
 that she may console herself with feeling like an en- 
 23 * 
 
270 
 
 RETURN TO TEPENACASCO. 
 
 chanted princess in a giant’s castle ; or a most com¬ 
 monplace spirit, so that she may darn stockings to 
 the sound of the waterfall, and feel no other incon¬ 
 venience from the storm, but that her husband will 
 require dry linen when he comes home. 
 
 As for us, we were drenched before reaching the 
 carriage, into which the water was pouring; and 
 when we set off, once more, amidst the rapidly-in¬ 
 creasing darkness, and over these precipitous roads, 
 we thought that our chance of reaching the proposed 
 haven that night was very small. After much toil to 
 the horses, we got out of the ravines, and found our¬ 
 selves once more on the great plains, where the tired 
 animals ploughed their way over fields and ditches 
 and great stones, and among trees and tangled 
 bushes; an occasional flash of lightning our only 
 guide. Great was our joy, when, about eleven 
 o’clock, a man, riding on in advance, shouted out, 
 that the lights of Tepenacasco were in sight; and still 
 more complete our satisfaction, when we drove round 
 the tank into the court-yard of the hacienda. We 
 were received with great applause by the inmates, 
 and were not sorry to rest after a very fatiguing, yet 
 agreeable day. 
 
 Mexico, 21st. 
 
 We left Tepenacasco the day before yesterday. Our 
 journey was very dangerous, in consequence of the 
 great rains, which had swelled the torrents; espe¬ 
 cially as we set oft’ late, and most of it was performed 
 by night. In these barrancas, carriages and horse¬ 
 men have been frequently swept away and dashed in 
 pieces over the precipices. But to make our situa- 
 
MOUNTAIN TORRENTS. 
 
 271 
 
 tion more disagreeable, we had scarcely set off, be¬ 
 fore a terrible storm of thunder and rain again came 
 on, with more violence than the night preceding. It 
 grew perfectly dark, and we listened with some alarm 
 to the roaring torrents, over which, especially over 
 one, not many leagues from Sopayuca, where we 
 were to spend the night, it was extremely doubtful 
 whether we could pass. The carriage was full of 
 water, but we were too much alarmed to be uneasy 
 about trifles. Amidst the howling of the wind and 
 the pealing thunder, no one could hear the other 
 speak. Suddenly, by a vivid flash of lightning, the 
 dreaded barranca appeared in sight for a moment, 
 and almost before the drivers could stop them, the 
 horses had plunged in. It was a moment of mortal 
 fear, such as I shall never forget. The shrieks of 
 the drivers to encourage the horses, the loud cries of 
 Ave Maria! the uncertainty as to whether our heavy 
 carriage could be dragged across, the horses strug¬ 
 gling and splashing in the boiling torrent, and the 
 horrible fate that awaited us should one of them fall 
 
 or falter! . . . . The Senora-and I shut our 
 
 eyes, and held each other’s hands, and certainly 
 no one breathed till we were safe on the other side. 
 We were then told that we had crossed within a few 
 feet of a precipice, over which a coach had been 
 dashed into fifty pieces during one of these swells, 
 and of course every one killed ; and that, if instead 
 of horses, we had travelled with mules, we must have 
 been lost. You may imagine that we were not sorry 
 to reach Sopayuca; where the people ran out to the 
 door at the sound of carriage wheels, and could not 
 
272 
 
 EL CHATO. 
 
 C( 
 
 5? 
 
 believe that we had passed the barranca that night; 
 as two or three horsemen who had rode in that di¬ 
 rection had turned back, and pronounced it impass¬ 
 able. 
 
 Lights and supper were soon procured, and by 
 way of interlude, a monstrous bull of great fame in 
 these parts, was led up to the supper-table for our 
 inspection, with a rope through his nose; a fierce 
 brute, but familiarly called “ el chato,” the flatnose, 
 from the shortness of his horns. The lightning con¬ 
 tinued very vivid, and they told us that a woman had 
 been struck there some time before, while in the 
 chapel by night. 
 
 We rose at four o’clock the next morning, and set 
 off for Mexico. The morning, as usual after these 
 storms, was peculiarly fresh and beautiful; but the 
 sun soon grew oppressive on the great plains. About 
 two o’clock, we entered Mexico by the Guadalupe 
 gate. We found our house in statu quo —agreeable 
 letters from Europe — great preparations making for 
 the English ball, to assist at which we have returned 
 sooner than we otherwise should, and for which my 
 femme-de-chambre has just completed a dress for 
 me, very much to her own satisfaction. 
 
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH. 
 
 English Ball — Dresses — Diamonds — Mineria — Arrival of the 
 Pope’s Bull — Consecration of the Archbishop — Foreign Min¬ 
 isters— Splendor of the Cathedral — Description of the cere¬ 
 mony. 
 
 25th. 
 
 The English ball at the Mineria has passed off with 
 great eclat. Nothing could be more splendid than 
 the general effect of this noble building, brilliantly 
 illuminated and filled with a well-dressed crowd. 
 The President and corps diplomatique were in full 
 uniform, and the display of diamonds was extraordi¬ 
 nary. We ladies of the corps diplomatique tried to 
 flatter ourselves that we made up in elegance what 
 we wanted in magnificence ! for in jewels no foreign 
 ladies could attempt to compete with those of the 
 country. The daughter of Countess-, just ar¬ 
 
 rived from Paris, and whose acquaintance I made for 
 the first time, wore pale blue, with garlands of pale 
 pink roses, and a parure of most superb brilliants. 
 
 The Senora de A-’s head reminded me of that 
 
 of the Marchioness of Londonderry, in her opera- 
 box. The Marquesa de Yivanco had a riviere of 
 brilliants of extraordinary size and beauty, and per¬ 
 fectly well set. Madame S -r wore a very rich 
 
 blonde dress, garnie with plumes of ostrich feathers, 
 
274 
 
 ENGLISH BALL. 
 
 a large diamond fastening each plume. One lady 
 
 wore a diadem which-said could not be worth 
 
 less than a hundred thousand dollars. Diamonds are 
 always worn plain or with pearls ; colored stones are 
 considered trash, which is a pity, as I think rubies 
 and emeralds set in diamonds would give more vari¬ 
 ety and splendor to their jewels. There were a pro¬ 
 fusion of large pearls, generally of a pear shape. 
 The finest and roundest were those worn by the 
 
 Sehora B-a. There were many blonde dresses, 
 
 a great fashion here. I know no lady without one. 
 Amongst the prettiest and most tastefully dressed 
 
 girls, were the E-s, as usual. Many dresses 
 
 were overloaded, a common fault in Mexico ; and 
 many of the dresses, though rich, were old-fashioned ; 
 but the coup d’ceil was not the less brilliant, and it 
 was somewhat astonishing, in such a multitude, not 
 to see a single objectionable person. To be sure the 
 company were all invited. 
 
 On entering the noble court, which was brilliantly 
 illuminated with colored lamps hung from pillar to 
 pillar, and passing up the great staircase, we were 
 met at the first landing, by Mr. P-in full uni¬ 
 
 form, and other English gentlemen, the directors of 
 the ball, who stood there to receive the ladies. His 
 Excellency led me up stairs to the top of the ball¬ 
 room, where chairs were placed for the president, 
 ladies of the diplomatics, cabinet ministers, &c. The 
 music was excellent, and dancing was already in full 
 force. And though there were assembled what is 
 called all Mexico, the rooms are so large, that the 
 crow r d was not disagreeable, nor the heat oppressive. 
 
QUEEN VICTORIA. 
 
 275 
 
 Pictures of Queen Victoria were hung in the differ¬ 
 ent large halls. The supper-tables were very hand¬ 
 some ; and in fact the ball altogether was worthy of 
 its object; for Messieurs les Anglais always do these 
 things well when they attempt them. 
 
 The President took me to supper. The company 
 walked in to the music of God save the Queen. 
 After we had sat a little while, the President de¬ 
 manded silence, and in a short speech, proposed the 
 health of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, which was 
 drank by all the company standing. After supper, 
 we continued dancing till nearly six in the morning; 
 and when we got into the carriage it was broad day¬ 
 light, and all the bells were ringing for mass ! 
 
 This is the best ball we have seen here, without 
 any exception ; and is said to have cost eleven thou¬ 
 sand dollars. There were certainly a great number of 
 pretty faces at this fete, many pretty girls whom we had 
 not seen before, and whom the English secretaries had 
 contrived to unearth. Fine eyes are a mere drug — 
 every one has them ; large, dark, full orbs, with long 
 silken lashes. As for diamonds, no man above the 
 rank of a lepero marries in this country without 
 presenting his bride with at least a pair of diamond 
 ear-rings, or a pearl necklace with a diamond clasp. 
 They are not always a proof of wealth, though they 
 constitute it in themselves. Their owners may be 
 very poor in other respects. They are considered 
 a necessary of life; quite as much so as shoes and 
 stockings. 
 
 June 2d .—On the 15th of April, the pontifical 
 bulls arrived from Rome, confirming the election of 
 
276 CONSECRATION OF THE ARCHBISHOP. 
 
 the Sehor Posada to the Archieopiscopal dignity; 
 and on Sunday last, the 31st of May, the consecra¬ 
 tion took place in the Cathedral with the greatest 
 pomp. The presiding Bishop was the Senor Be- 
 launzaran, the old Bishop of Linares ; the two assist¬ 
 ing Bishops were the Sehor Madrid, a young, good- 
 looking man, who having been banished from Mexico 
 during the revolution, took refuge in Rome, where 
 he obtained the favor of the Pope, who afterwards 
 recommended him to an episcopal see in Mexico; 
 and the Doctor Morales, formerly Bishop of Sonora. 
 His padrino was the President, General Bustamante, 
 who in this capacity presented his godson with the 
 splendid pastoral ring, a solitary diamond of im¬ 
 mense size. All the diplomatic body and the cabinet 
 went in full uniform ; chairs being placed for them 
 on each side of the crugia, (the passage leading to 
 the altar.) A dispute upon the subject of prece¬ 
 dence arose between an excellency of the diplomatic 
 corps, and the secretary of state, which seems likely 
 to have disagreeable consequences. I had the plea¬ 
 sure of kneeling beside these illustrious persons for 
 the space of three or four hours, for no seats were 
 placed for the wives either of the diplomates or of 
 the cabinet. 
 
 But the ceremony, though long, was very superb, 
 the music fine, the quantity of jewels on the dresses 
 of the bishops and priests, and on the holy vessels, 
 &c., enormous. The bishops were arrayed in white 
 velvet and gold, and their mitres were literally cover¬ 
 ed with diamonds. The gold candlesticks and gold¬ 
 en basins, and golden vessels for holy water, and 
 
PONTIFICAL VESTMENTS. 
 
 277 
 
 golden incensories, reminded me of the description 
 of the ornaments of the Jewish tabernacle in the 
 days of Moses ; of the “ candlesticks of pure gold, 
 with golden branches; ” and “the tongs and snuff- 
 dishes of pure gold ; ” or of the temple of Solomon, 
 where the altar was of gold, and the table of gold, and 
 the candlesticks, and the snuffers, and the basins, and 
 the spoons, and the censors were of pure gold. The 
 pontifical vestments, destined for the elected primate, 
 were all prepared ; — sandals, amice, surplice, girdle, 
 pectoral cross, stole, gown, vestment with open 
 sleeves, (the dalmatica,) crosier, mitre, pontifical 
 ring, &c. Magnificent chairs were prepared for the 
 bishops, near the altar, and the president in uniform 
 took his place amongst them. The presiding bishop 
 took his seat alone, with his back to the altar, and 
 the Senor Posada was led in by the assisting bishops, 
 they with their mitres, he with his priest’s cap on. 
 Arrived before the presiding Bishop, he uncovered 
 his head, and made a profound obeisance. These 
 three then took their places on chairs placed in front; 
 and the ceremony having begun, in case you should 
 wish to have some idea of it, I shall endeavor to give 
 it you, for I was so situated, that although the cathe¬ 
 dral was crowded to excess, I could see and hear all 
 that passed. Let me premise, however, that there 
 was not one lepero, as they are always excluded on 
 such occasions. 
 
 Posada and his assistant bishops rose, and uncov¬ 
 ered their heads; and the bishop Morales turning to 
 the presiding Bishop, said, “ Most reverend father, 
 the holy Catholic Mother Church requests you to 
 
 24 
 
 VOL. L 
 
278 
 
 EXAMINATION. 
 
 raise this Presbyter to the charge of the archbish¬ 
 opric.” 
 
 “ Have you an apostolical mandate ? ” 
 
 “ We have.” 
 
 “ Read it.” 
 
 An assistant priest then read the mandate in a 
 loud voice ; upon which they all sat down, the con- 
 secrator saying “ Thanks be to God ! ” Then Po¬ 
 sada kneeling before him, took an oath upon the 
 Bible, which the Bishop held, concluding with these 
 words — “ So may God help me, and these his holy 
 gospels.” Then all sitting down, and resuming their 
 mitres, the examination of the future Archbishop took 
 place. It was very long, and at its conclusion, Po¬ 
 sada knelt before the presiding Bishop and kissed his 
 hand. To this succeeded the confession, every one 
 standing uncovered before the altar, which was then 
 sprinkled with incense. Then followed the mass, 
 chanted. 
 
 The assistant bishops then led out the Seiior Po¬ 
 sada to the chapel, where they put on his sandals, 
 and where he assumed the pectoral cross, amice, sur¬ 
 plice, <fcc.; and arriving at the altar, read the office 
 of the mass. He was then conducted again before 
 the consecrating Bishop, who was seated with his 
 mitre, and after saluting him reverently, he sat down. 
 Then the Bishop, addressing him, said : “ It is the 
 duty of the Bishop to judge, interpret, consecrate, 
 ordain, offer, baptize and confirm.” 
 
 All then rose, and the Bishop prayed that the 
 newly-elected primate might receive the grace of 
 heaven. All the bishops and priests then prostrated 
 
BENEDICTION. 
 
 279 
 
 themselves, while the Litanies were sung. The pre¬ 
 siding Bishop, rising, took the crosier, and prayed 
 three times for a blessing on the Chosen One ; thrice 
 making on him the sign of the cross; and they con¬ 
 tinued to sing the Litanies; at the conclusion of 
 which they all arose, took their seats and resumed 
 their mitres, Posada alone kneeling before the Bishop. 
 
 The Bible was then placed upon his shoulders, 
 while he remained prostrated, and the Bishop rising 
 up, pronounced a solemn benediction upon him, while 
 the hymn of “ Veni Creator Spiritus,” was sung in 
 full chorus. Then the Bishop, dipping his hand in 
 the holy chrism, anointed the primate’s head, making 
 on it the sign of the cross, saying, “ Let thy head be 
 anointed and consecrated with the celestial bene¬ 
 diction, according to the pontifical mandate.” The 
 Bishop then anointed his hands, making in the same 
 manner the sign of the cross, and saying, “ May 
 these hands be anointed with holy oil; and as Sam¬ 
 uel anointed David a king and a prophet, so be thou 
 anointed and consecrated.” This was followed by 
 a solemn prayer. 
 
 Then the crosier was blessed, and presented to the 
 elected Archbishop with these words. “ Receive the 
 pastoral crosier, that thou mayest be humanely severe 
 in correcting vices, exercising judgment without wrath, 
 &c.” The blessing of the ring followed, with solemn 
 prayer, and being sprinkled with holy water, it was 
 placed on the third finger of the right hand, the 
 Bishop saying; “ Receive the ring, which is a sign of 
 faith ; that, adorned with incorruptible faith, thou 
 mayest guard inviolably the spouse of God, his Holy 
 Church.” 
 
280 
 
 COMMUNION. 
 
 The Bible being then taken off the shoulders of 
 the prostrate prelate, was presented to him with an 
 injunction to receive and to preach the gospel. Fi¬ 
 nally, the Bishop bestowed on him the kiss of peace; 
 and all the other bishops did so in their turn. Posada 
 then retired, and his head and hands being washed, 
 he soon after returned with the assistant bishops, 
 carrying two lighted wax tapers, which he presented 
 to the presiding Bishop, together with two loaves and 
 two small barrels of wine, reverently kissing his hand. 
 After this, the presiding Bishop washed his hands and 
 mounted the steps of the altar, and the new primate 
 received the sacrament. 
 
 The mitre was then blessed and placed upon his 
 head, with a prayer by the Bishop, that thus, with his 
 head armed and with the staff of the gospels, he 
 might appear terrible to the adversaries of the True 
 Faith. The gloves were next consecrated and drawn 
 on his hands, the Bishop praying that his hands might 
 be surrounded by the purity of the new man ; and 
 that as Jacob, when he covered his hands with goat¬ 
 skins, offered agreeable meats to his father, and re¬ 
 ceived his paternal benediction, so he, in offering the 
 Holy Sacrament, might obtain the benediction of his 
 Heavenly Father. The Archbishop was then seated 
 by the consecrating Bishop on his pontifical throne, 
 and at the same moment, the hymn Te deum lauda- 
 mus was chanted. During the hymn, the bishops, 
 with their jewelled mitres, rose, and passing through 
 the church, blessed the whole congregation, the new 
 Archbishop still remaining near the altar, and with¬ 
 out his mitre. When he returned to his seat, the 
 
FIRST MEXICAN ARCHBISHOP. 
 
 281 
 
 assistant bishops, including the consecrator, remained 
 standing till the hymn was concluded. 
 
 The presiding Bishop then advancing, without his 
 mitre, to the right hand of the Archbishop, said ; 
 “ May thy hand be strengthened ! May thy right 
 hand be exalted ! May justice and judgment be the 
 preparation of thy See ! ” Then the organ pealed 
 forth, and they chanted the hymn of “ Gloria Patri.” 
 Long and solemn prayer followed ; and then, all un¬ 
 covered, stood beside the gospels, at the altar. 
 
 The Archbishop rose, and with mitre and crosier, 
 pronounced a solemn blessing on all the people as¬ 
 sembled. Then, while all knelt beside the altar, he 
 said — “ For many years.” This he repeated thrice ; 
 the second time, in the middle of the altar, the third 
 at the feet of the presiding Bishop. Then all rising, 
 the Archbishop bestowed on each the kiss of peace, 
 and the ceremony concluded. 
 
 When everything was over, our carriage not being 
 visible amongst the crowd of vehicles, I returned 
 
 home in that of the-Minister, with him and his 
 
 Attaches; after which, they and C-n returned to 
 
 dine with the new Archbishop in his palace. A dish 
 of sweetmeats was sent me from his table, which are 
 so pretty, (probably the chef d’oeuvre of the Nuns,) 
 that I send them to you, to preserve as a memorial of 
 the consecration of the first Mexican Archbishop — 
 perhaps of the last! 
 
 24* 
 
LETTER THE NINETEENTH. 
 
 Mexican servants — Anecdotes — Remedies — An unsafe Porter 
 — Galopinas — The reboso — The sarape — Women-eooks — 
 Foreign servants — Characteristics of Mexican servants — Ser¬ 
 vants’ wages — Nun of the Santa Teresa — Motives for taking 
 the veil. 
 
 June 3d. 
 
 You ask me to tell you how I find the Mexican ser¬ 
 vants. Hitherto I had avoided the ungrateful theme, 
 from very weariness of it. The badness of the 
 servants, is an unfailing source of complaint even 
 amongst Mexicans ; much more so amongst foreign¬ 
 ers, especially on their first arrival. We hear of their 
 addiction to stealing, their laziness, drunkenness, dirti¬ 
 ness, with a host of other vices. That these com¬ 
 plaints are frequently just, there can be no doubt, but 
 the evil might be remedied to a great extent. In the 
 first place, servants are constantly taken without being 
 required to bring a recommendation from their last 
 place ; and in the next, recommendations are con¬ 
 stantly given, whether from indolence or mistaken 
 kindness to servants who do not deserve them. A 
 servant who has lived in a dozen different houses, 
 staying about a month in each, is not thought the 
 worse of on that account. As the love of finery is 
 inherent in them all, even more so than in other 
 
SERVANTS. 
 
 283 
 
 daughters of Eve, a girl will go to service merely to 
 earn sufficient to buy herself an embroidered chem¬ 
 ise ; and if, in addition to this, she can pick up a pair 
 of small old satin shoes, she will tell you she is tired 
 of working, and going home to rest, “para descan- 
 sar .” So little is necessary, when one can content¬ 
 edly live on tortillas and chile, sleep on a mat, and 
 dress in rags ! 
 
 A decent old woman, who came to the house to 
 wash shortly after our arrival in this country, left us 
 at the end of a month, “para descansar .” Soon 
 after, she used to come with her six children, they and 
 herself all in rags, and beg the gardener to give her 
 any odds and ends of vegetables he could spare. My 
 maid asked her, why, being so poor, she had left a 
 good place, where she got twelve dollars a month. 
 “ Jesus ! ” said she, “ if you only knew the pleasure 
 of doing nothing ! ” 
 
 I wished to bring up a little girl as a servant, hav¬ 
 ing her taught to read, sew, &c. A child of twelve 
 years old, one of a large family, who subsisted upon 
 charity, was procured for me ; and I promised her 
 mother that she should be taught to read, taken 
 regularly to church, and instructed in all kinds of 
 work. She was rather pretty, and very intelligent, 
 though extremely indolent; and though she had no 
 stockings, would consent to wear nothing but dirty 
 white satin shoes, too short for her foot. Once a 
 week, her mother, a tall, slatternly woman, with long 
 tangled hair, and a cigar in her mouth, used to come 
 to visit her, accompanied by a friend, a friend’s 
 friend, and a train of girls, her daughters. The 
 
284 
 
 JOSEFITA. 
 
 housekeeper would give them some dinner, after 
 which they would all light their cigars, and, together 
 with the little Josefita, sit and howl and bemoan 
 themselves, crying and lamenting her sad fate in be¬ 
 ing obliged to go out to service. After these visits, 
 Josefita was fit for nothing. If desired to sew, she 
 would sit looking so miserable, and doing so little, 
 that it seemed better to allow her to leave her work 
 alone. Then, tolerably contented, she would sit on 
 a mat, doing nothing, her hands folded and her eyes 
 fixed on vacancy. 
 
 According to promise, I took her several times to 
 see her mother, but one day being occupied, I sent 
 her alone in the carriage, with charge to the servants 
 to bring her safely back. In the evening, she re¬ 
 turned, accompanied by her whole family, all crying 
 and howling; “ For the love of the Most Holy Vir¬ 
 gin, Sehora mia ! Por la purissima concepcion!” 
 &c., &c., &c. I asked what had happened, and 
 after much difficulty discovered that their horror was 
 occasioned by my having sent her alone in the car¬ 
 riage. It happened that the Countess S-was in 
 
 the drawing-room, and to her I related the cause of 
 the uproar. To my astonishment, she assured me 
 that the woman was in this instance right, and that 
 it was very dangerous to send a girl of twelve years 
 old from one street to another, in the power of the 
 coachman and footman. Finding from such good 
 authority that this was the case, I begged the woman 
 to be contented with seeing her daughter once a 
 month, when if she could not come herself, I should 
 send her under proper protection. She agreed ; but 
 
AN UNSAFE PORTER. 
 
 285 
 
 one day having given Josefita permission to spend 
 the night at her mother’s, I received next morning a 
 dirty note, nearly illegible, which, after calling down 
 the protection of the Virgin upon me, concluded — 
 “ but with much sorrow I must take my child from 
 the most illustrious protection of your Excellency, 
 for she needs to rest herself, (es preciso que descanse,) 
 and is tired for the present of working.” The woman 
 then returned to beg, which she considered infinitely 
 less degrading. 
 
 Against this nearly universal indolence and indif¬ 
 ference to earning money, the heads of families have 
 to contend; as also against thieving and dirtiness; 
 yet I think the remedy much easier than it appears. 
 If on the one hand, no one were to receive a servant 
 into their house, without respectable references, es¬ 
 pecially from their last place, and if their having re¬ 
 mained one year in the same house were considered 
 necessary to their being received into another, unless 
 from some peculiar circumstances ; and if on the 
 other hand it were considered as unjust and danger¬ 
 ous, as it really is, to recommend a servant who has 
 been guilty of stealing, as being “ muy honrado,” very 
 honest, some improvement might soon take place. 
 
 A porter was recommended to us as “ muy hon¬ 
 rado not from his last place, but from one be¬ 
 fore it. He was a well-dressed, sad-looking indi¬ 
 vidual ; and at the same time we took his wife as 
 washerwoman, and his brother as valet to our at¬ 
 tache, thus having the whole family under our roof, 
 wisely taking it for granted that he being recom¬ 
 mended as particularly honest, his relations were 
 
286 
 
 RESULTS OP GAMBLING. 
 
 £< all honorable men.” An English lady happened 
 to call on me; and a short time after I went to re¬ 
 turn her visit; when she informed me that the per¬ 
 son who had opened the door for her was a noto¬ 
 rious thief, whom the police had long been in search 
 of; that she had feared sending a servant to warn us 
 of our danger, lest guessing the purport of her mes¬ 
 sage, he might rob the house before leaving it. We 
 said nothing to the man that evening, but he looked 
 paler and more miserable than usual, probably fore¬ 
 seeing what would be the result of Mrs.-’s visit. 
 
 The next morning C-n sent for him and dis¬ 
 
 missed him, giving him a month’s wages, that he 
 might not be tempted 'to steal from immediate want. 
 His face grew perfectly livid, but he made no re¬ 
 mark. In half an hour he returned and begged to 
 
 speak with C-n. He confessed that the crime 
 
 of which he concluded he was accused, he had in 
 fact committed ; that he had been tempted to a 
 gambling house, while he had in his pocket a large 
 sum of money belonging to his master. After losing 
 his own money, he tried his fortune with what was 
 not his own ; lost the whole sum, then pawned a 
 valuable shawl worth several hundred dollars, with 
 which also he had been entrusted ; and having lost 
 everything, in despair made his escape from Mexico. 
 He remained in concealment for some time, till hear¬ 
 ing that we wanted a porter, he ventured to present 
 himself to the housekeeper with his former certifi¬ 
 cate. He declared himself thoroughly repentant — 
 that this was his first, and would be his last crime — 
 but who can trust the good resolutions of a gambler ! 
 
GALOPINAS. 
 
 287 
 
 We were obliged to send him away, especially as the 
 other servants already had some suspicions concern¬ 
 ing him; and everything stolen in the house would 
 in future have been attributed to him. The gentle¬ 
 man who had recommended him, afterwards con¬ 
 fessed that he always had strong suspicions of this 
 man’s honesty, and knew him to be so determined a 
 gambler, that he had pawned all he possessed, even 
 his wife’s clothes, to obtain money for that purpose. 
 Now as a porter in Mexico has pretty much at his 
 disposal the property and even the lives of the 
 whole family, it is certainly most blamable to recom¬ 
 mend to that situation a man whose honesty is more 
 than doubtful. We afterwards procured two sol¬ 
 diers from the Invalidos, old Spaniards, to act in 
 that capacity, who had no other foiblesse but that of 
 being constantly drunk. We at length found two 
 others, who only got tipsy alternately, so that we 
 considered ourselves very well off. 
 
 We had a long series of galopinas, kitchen-maids, 
 and the only one who brought a first-rate character 
 with her, robbed the housekeeper. The money, how¬ 
 ever, was recovered, and was found to have been 
 placed by the girl in the hands of a rich and appa¬ 
 rently respectable coach-maker. He refunded it to 
 the rightful owner, and the galopina was punished by 
 a month’s imprisonment, which he should have shared 
 with her. One of the most disagreeable customs of 
 the women-servants, is that of wearing their long hair 
 hanging down at its full length, matted, uncombed, 
 and always in the way. I cannot imagine how the 
 Mexican ladies, who complain of this, permit it. Flow- 
 
288 
 
 REB0S0S. 
 
 ing hair sounds very picturesque, but when it is very 
 dirty, and suspended over the soup, it is not a pretty 
 picture. 
 
 The reboso, in itself graceful and convenient, has 
 the disadvantage of being the greatest cloak for all 
 untidiness, uncombed hair and raggedness, that ever 
 was invented. Even in the better classes, it occa¬ 
 sions much indolence in the toilette, but in the com¬ 
 mon people, its effect is overwhelming. When the 
 reboso drops off, or is displaced by chance, we see 
 what they would be without it! As for the sarape, 
 it is both convenient and graceful, especially on 
 horseback; but though Indian in its origin, the cus¬ 
 tom of covering the lower part of the face with it, is 
 taken from the Spanish cloak; and the opportunity 
 which both sarape and reboso afford for concealing 
 large knives about the person, as also for enveloping 
 both face and figure so as to be scarcely recognisa¬ 
 ble, is no doubt the cause of the many murders 
 which take place amongst the lower orders, in mo¬ 
 ments of excitement and drunkenness. If they had 
 not these knives at hand, their rage would probably 
 cool, or a fair fight would finish the matter, and if 
 they could not wear these knives concealed, I pre¬ 
 sume they would be prohibited from carrying them. 
 
 As for taking a woman-cook in Mexico, one must 
 have strong nerves and a good appetite to eat what 
 she dresses, however palatable, after having seen her. 
 One look at her flowing locks, one glance at her re¬ 
 boso, et c'est fini. And yet the Mexican servants 
 have their good qualities, and are a thousand times 
 preferable to the foreign servants one finds in Mexi- 
 
servants’ wages. 
 
 289 
 
 co; especially to the French. Bringing them with 
 you is a dangerous experiment. In ten days they 
 begin to fancy themselves ladies and gentlemen — 
 the men have Don tacked to their name : and they 
 either marry and set up shops, or become unbearably 
 insolent. A tolerable French cook may occasionally 
 be had, but you must pay his services their weight in 
 gold, and wink at his extortions and robberies. There 
 are one or two French restaurans, who will send you 
 in a very good dinner at an extravagant price; and 
 it is common in foreign houses, especially amongst 
 the English, to adopt this plan whenever they give a 
 large entertainment. 
 
 The Mexican servants have some never-failing 
 good qualities. They are the perfection of civility — 
 humble, obliging, excessively good-tempered, and 
 very easily attached to those with whom they live; 
 and if that rara avis, a good Mexican housekeeper, can 
 be found, and that such may be met with I from ex¬ 
 perience can testify, then the troubles of the menage 
 rest upon her shoulders, and accustomed as she is to 
 the amiable weaknesses of her compatriotes, she is 
 neither surprised nor disturbed by them. 
 
 As for wages, a good porter has from fifteen to 
 twenty dollars per month; a coachman from twenty 
 to thirty —many houses keep two or even three 
 coachmen ; one who drives from the box, one who 
 rides postilion, and a third for emergencies. Our 
 friend -, who has many horses, mules and car¬ 
 
 riages, has four ; and pays forty dollars per month to 
 his head coachman; the others in proportion. A 
 French cook has about thirty dollars — a housekeeper 
 25 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
290 
 
 NUN OF SANTA TERESA. 
 
 from twelve to fifteen ; a major-domo about twenty 
 or more ; a footman six or seven; galopine and 
 chambermaid five or six; a gardener from twelve 
 to fifteen. Sewing-girls have about three reals per 
 diem. Porter, coachman and gardener have their 
 wives and families in the house, which would be an 
 annoyance, were the houses not so large. The men- 
 servants generally are much cleaner and better 
 dressed than the women. 
 
 One circumstance is remarkable ; that, dirty as the 
 women-servants are, and notwithstanding the enor¬ 
 mous size of Mexican houses and Mexican families, 
 the houses themselves are, generally speaking, the 
 perfection of cleanliness. This must be due either 
 to a good housekeeper, which is rarely to be found, 
 or to the care taken by the mistress of the house 
 herself. That private houses should have this advan¬ 
 tage over churches and theatres, only proves that 
 ladies know how to manage these matters better than 
 gentlemen, so that one is inclined to wish a la Mar- 
 tineau, that the Mexican police were entirely com¬ 
 posed of old women. 
 
 12 th .—I have formed an acquaintance with a 
 very amiable and agreeable nun in the convent of the 
 Santa Teresa, one of the strictest orders. I have 
 only seen her twice, through a grating. She is a 
 handsome woman of good family, and it is said of a 
 remarkably joyous disposition ; fond of music and 
 dancing, and gay society, yet at the age of eighteen, 
 contrary to the wishes of all her family, she took the 
 veil, and declares she has never repented of it. Al¬ 
 though I cannot see her, I can hear her voice, and talk 
 
MOTIVES FOR TAKING THE VEIL. 
 
 291 
 
 to her through a turning wooden screen, which has a 
 very mysterious effect. She gives me an account of 
 her occupations and of the little events that take 
 place in her small world within; whilst I bring her 
 news from the world without. The common people 
 have the greatest veneration for the holy sisterhood, 
 and I generally find there a number of women with 
 baskets, and men carrying parcels or letters; some 
 asking their advice or assistance, others executing 
 their commissions, bringing them vegetables or bread, 
 and listening to the sound of their voice with the 
 
 most eager attention. My friend, the Madre-, 
 
 has promised to dress a number of wax figures for 
 me, in the exact costume of all the different nuns in 
 Mexico, beginning with that of her own convent. 
 
 I have now seen three nuns take the veil; and, 
 next to a death, consider it the saddest event that 
 can occur in this nether sphere; yet the frequency 
 of these human sacrifices here is not so strange as 
 might at first appear. A young girl, who knows no¬ 
 thing of the world, who, as it too frequently happens, 
 has at home neither amusement nor instruction, and 
 no society abroad, who from childhood is under the 
 dominion of her confessor, and who firmly believes 
 that by entering a convent she becomes sure of hea¬ 
 ven ; who moreover finds there a number of com¬ 
 panions of her own age, and of older women who 
 load her with praises and caresses —it is not, after 
 all, astonishing that she should consent to insure her 
 salvation on such easy terms. 
 
 Add to this the splendor of the ceremony, of which 
 she is the sole object; the cynosure of all approving 
 
292 
 
 MONKS AND NUNS. 
 
 eyes. A girl of sixteen finds it hard to resist all this. 
 I am told that more girls are smitten by the ceremo¬ 
 ny, than by anything else, and am inclined to believe 
 it, from the remarks I have heard made on these oc¬ 
 casions by young girls in my vicinity. What does 
 she lose ? A husband and children ? Probably she 
 has seen no one who has touched her heart. Most 
 probably she has hitherto seen no men, or at least 
 conversed with none but her brothers, her uncles, or 
 her confessor. She has perhaps also felt the troubles 
 of a Mexican menage. The society of men ? She 
 will still see her confessor, and she will have occa¬ 
 sional visits from reverend padres and right reverend 
 bishops. 
 
 Some of these convents are not entirely free from 
 scandal. Amongst the monks, there are many who 
 are openly a disgrace to their calling, though I firmly 
 believe that by far the greater number lead a life of 
 privation and virtue. Their conduct can, to a cer¬ 
 tain extent, be judged of by the world ; but the pale 
 nuns, devout and pure, immured in the cloister for 
 life, kneeling before the shrine, or chanting hymns in 
 the silence of the night, a veil both truly and alle¬ 
 gorically must shade their virtues or their failings. 
 The nuns of the Santa Teresa and of other strict 
 orders, who live sparingly, profess the most severe 
 rules, and have no servants or boarders, enjoy a uni¬ 
 versal reputation for virtue and sanctity. They con¬ 
 sider the other convents worldly, and their motto is, 
 “ All or nothing ; the world or the cloister.” Each ab¬ 
 bess adds a stricter rule, a severer penance than her 
 predecessor, and in this they glory. My friend the 
 
SEVERE JUDGMENTS. 
 
 293 
 
 Madre-frequently says—“Were I to be born 
 
 again, I should choose, above every lot in life, to 
 be a nun of the Santa Teresa, but of no other con¬ 
 vent.” .... 
 
 It is strange how, all the world over, makind seems 
 to expect from those who assume religion as a profes¬ 
 sion, a degree of superhuman perfection. Their fail¬ 
 ings are insisted upon. Every eye is upon them to 
 mark whatsoever may be amiss in their conduct. 
 Their virtues, their learning, their holy lives — no¬ 
 thing will avail them, if one blot can be discovered 
 in their character. There must be no moral blemish 
 in the priesthood. In the Catholic religion, where 
 more is professed, still more is demanded, and the 
 errors of one padre or one ecclesiastic seem to throw 
 a shade over the whole community to which they 
 belong. 
 
LETTER THE TWENTIETH. 
 
 The convent-entry — Dialogue — A chair in church — Arrival of 
 the nun — Dress — Jose Maria — Crowd — Withdrawal of the 
 black curtain — The taking of the veil — The sermon — A 
 dead body — Another victim — Convent of the Encarnacion — 
 Attempt at a hymn — Invitation — Morning visit — The nun 
 and her mother — Banquet — Taking leave — Ceremony of the 
 veil-taking — A beautiful victim — The last look—Presenta¬ 
 tion to the bishop — Reflections — Verses. 
 
 4th June. 
 
 Some days ago, having received a message from my 7iun, 
 that a girl was about to take the veil in her convent, 
 I went there about six o’clock, and knowing that the 
 church on these occasions is apt to be crowded to 
 suffocation, I proceeded to the reja, and speaking 
 to an invisible within, requested to know in what 
 part of the church I could have a place. Upon 
 which a voice replied — 
 
 “ Hermanita, (my sister) I am rejoiced te see you. 
 You shall have a place beside the godmother.” 
 
 “Many thanks, Hermanita. Which way shall I 
 go? ” 
 
 Voice. “ You shall go through the sacristy. Jose 
 Maria ! ” 
 
 Jose Maria, a thin, pale, lank individual, with hol¬ 
 low cheeks, who was standing near like a page in 
 waiting, sprang forward — “ Madrecita, I am here ! ” 
 
DIALOGUE. 
 
 295 
 
 Voice. “ Jose Maria — That lady is the Sehore 
 
 de C-n. You will conduct her excellency to the 
 
 front of the grating, and give her a chair.” 
 
 After I had thanked the voice for her kindness in 
 attending to me on a day when she was so much oc¬ 
 cupied with other affairs, the obsequious Jose Maria 
 led the way, and I followed him through the sacristy 
 into the church, where there were already a few 
 kneeling figures ; and thence into the railed-off en¬ 
 closure destined for the relatives of the future nun, 
 where I was permitted to sit down in a comfortable 
 velvet chair. I had been there but a little while 
 when the aforesaid Jose Maria reappeared, picking 
 his steps as if he were walking upon eggs in a sick 
 room. He brought me a message from the Madre 
 ———, that the nun had arrived, and that the ma- 
 drecita wished to know if I should like to give her 
 an embrace, before the ceremony began. I there¬ 
 fore followed my guide back into the sacristy, where 
 the future nun was seated beside her godmother, and 
 in the midst of her friends and relations, about thirty 
 in all. 
 
 She was arrayed in pale blue satin, with diamonds, 
 pearls and a crown of flowers. She was literally 
 smothered in blonde and jewels ; and her face was 
 flushed, as well it might be, for she had passed the 
 day in taking leave of her friends at a fete they had 
 given her ; and had then, according to custom, been 
 paraded through the town in all her finery. And now, 
 her last hour was at hand. When I came in, she 
 rose and embraced me with as much cordiality as if 
 we had known each other for years. Beside her sat 
 
296 
 
 POINT OF HONOR. 
 
 the Madrina, also in white satin and jewels ; all the 
 relations being likewise decked out in their finest 
 array. The nun kept laughing every now and then, 
 in the most unnatural and hysterical manner, as I 
 thought, apparently to impress us with the conviction 
 of her perfect happiness ; for it is a great point of 
 honor, amongst girls similarly situated, to look as 
 cheerful and gay as possible ; — the same feeling, 
 though in a different degree, which induces the gal¬ 
 lant highwayman to jest in the presence of the mul¬ 
 titude, when the hangman’s cord is within an inch of 
 his neck ; the same which makes a gallant general, 
 whose life is forfeited, command his men to fire on 
 him ; the same which makes the Hindoo widow mount 
 the funeral pile without a tear in her eye, or a sigh 
 on her lips. If the robber were to be strangled in a 
 corner of his dungeon ; if the general were to be put 
 to death privately in his own apartment; if the widow 
 were to be burnt quietly on her own hearth ; if the 
 nun were to be secretly smuggled in at the convent 
 gate like a bale of contraband goods, — we might hear 
 another tale. This girl was very young, but by no 
 means pretty ; on the contrary, rather disgracice par 
 la nature ; and perhaps a knowledge of her own 
 want of attractions may have caused the world to 
 have few charms for her. 
 
 But Jose Maria cut short my train of reflections, 
 by requesting me to return to my seat before the crowd 
 arrived, which I did forthwith. Shortly after, the 
 church doors were thrown open, and a crowd burst 
 in, every one struggling to obtain the best seat. Musi¬ 
 cians entered, carrying desks and music-books, and 
 
THE CEREMONY. 
 
 297 
 
 placed themselves in two rows, on either side of the 
 enclosure where I was. Then the organ struck up 
 its solemn psalmody, and was followed by the gay 
 music of the band. Rockets were let off outside 
 the church, and, at the same time, the Madrina and 
 all the relations entered, and knelt down in front of 
 the grating which looks into the convent, but before 
 which hung a dismal black curtain. I left my chair, 
 and knelt down beside the godmother. 
 
 Suddenly, the curtain was withdrawn, and the pic¬ 
 turesque beauty of the scene within, baffles all descrip¬ 
 tion. Beside the altar, which was in a blaze of light, 
 was a perfect mass of crimson and gold drapery ; the 
 walls, the antique chairs, the table before which the 
 priests sat, all hung with the same splendid material. 
 The Bishop wore his superb mitre and robes of crim¬ 
 son and gold ; the attendant priests also glittering in 
 crimson and gold embroidery. 
 
 In contrast to these, five-and-twenty figures, en¬ 
 tirely-robed in black from head to foot, were ranged 
 on each side of the room, prostrate, their faces touch¬ 
 ing the ground ; and in their hands immense lighted 
 tapers. On the foreground was spread a purple 
 carpet, bordered round with a garland of freshly 
 gathered flowers, roses and carnations and heliotrope, 
 the only things that looked real and living in the 
 whole scene; and in the middle of this knelt the 
 novice, still arrayed in her blue satin, white lacd veil 
 and jewels ; and also with a great lighted taper in 
 her hand. 
 
 The black nuns then rose, and sang a hymn, every 
 now and then falling on their faces, and touching the 
 
298 
 
 THE SERMON. 
 
 floor with their foreheads. The whole looked like 
 an incantation, or a scene in Robert le Diable. The 
 novice was then raised from the ground, and led to 
 the feet of the Bishop, who examined her as to her 
 vocation, and gave her his blessing ; and once more 
 the black curtain fell between us and them. 
 
 In the second act , she was lying prostrate on the 
 floor, disrobed of her profane dress, and covered over 
 with a black cloth, while the black figures kneeling 
 round her, chanted a hymn. She was now dead to 
 the world. The sunbeams had faded away, as if 
 they would not look upon the scene, and all the light 
 was concentrated in one great mass upon the con¬ 
 vent group. 
 
 Again she was raised. All the blood had rushed 
 into her face, and her attempt at a smile was truly 
 painful. She then knelt before the Bishop, and re¬ 
 ceived the benediction, with the sign of the cross, 
 from a white hand with the pastoral ring. She then 
 went round alone to embrace all the dark phantoms 
 as they stood motionless ; and as each dark shadow 
 clasped her in its arms, it seemed like the dead wel¬ 
 coming a new arrival to the shades. 
 
 But I forget the sermon, which was delivered by a 
 fat priest, who elbowed his way with some difficulty 
 through the crowd to the grating, panting and in a 
 prodigious heat, and ensconced himself in a great 
 arm-chair, close beside us. He assured her that she 
 “ had chosen the good part, which could not be taken 
 away from herthat she was now one of the elect, 
 “ chosen from amongst the wickedness and dangers 
 of the world — (picked out like a plum from a pie.) 
 
THE BLACK CURTAIN. 
 
 299 
 
 He mentioned with pity and contempt those who 
 were “ yet struggling in the great Babylonand 
 compared their miserable fate with hers, the Bride 
 of Christ, who, after suffering a few privations here 
 during a short term of years, should be received at 
 once into a kingdom of glory. The whole discourse 
 was well calculated to rally her fainting spirits, if 
 fainting they were, and to inspire us with a great 
 disgust for ourselves. 
 
 When the sermon was concluded, the music again 
 struck up — the heroine of the day came forward, 
 and stood before the grating, to take her last look of 
 this wicked world. Down fell the black curtain. 
 Up rose the relations, and I accompanied them into 
 the sacristy. Here they coolly lighted their cigars, 
 and very philosophically discoursed upon the exceed¬ 
 ing good fortune of the new-made nun, and on her 
 evident delight and satisfaction with her own situa¬ 
 tion. As we did not follow her behind the scenes, I 
 could not give my opinion on this point. Shortly 
 after, one of the gentlemen civilly led me to my car¬ 
 riage, and so it was. 
 
 As we were returning home, some soldiers rode up 
 and stopped the carriage, desiring the coachman to 
 take the other side of the aqueduct, to avoid the 
 body of a man, who had just been murdered within a 
 few doors of our house. 
 
 In the Convent of the Incarnation, I saw another 
 girl sacrificed in a similar manner. She was received 
 there without a dowry, on account of the exceeding 
 fineness of her voice. She little thought what a fatal 
 gift it would prove to her. The most cruel part of 
 
300 
 
 ANOTHER VICTIM. 
 
 all was, that wishing to display her fine voice to the 
 public, they made her sing a hymn alone, on her 
 knees, her arms extended in the form of a cross, be¬ 
 fore all the immense crowd; “ Ancilla Cristi Sum,” 
 “ The Bride of Christ I am.” She was a good-look¬ 
 ing girl, fat and comely, who would probably have 
 led a comfortable life in the world, for which she 
 seemed well fitted ; most likely without one touch of 
 romance or enthusiasm in her composition ; but hav¬ 
 ing the unfortunate honor of being niece to two 
 chanoines, she was thus honorably provided for 
 without expense, in her nineteenth year. As might 
 be expected, her voice faltered, and instead of sing¬ 
 ing, she seemed inclined to cry out. Each note 
 came slowly, heavily, tremblingly ; and at last she 
 nearly fell forward exhausted, when two of the sisters 
 caught and supported her. 
 
 I had almost made up my mind to see no more 
 such scenes, which, unlike pulque and bull-fights, I 
 dislike more and more upon trial ; when we received 
 an invitation, which it was not easy to refuse, but 
 was the more painful to accept, being acquainted, 
 though slightly, with the victim. I send you the 
 printed note of invitation. 
 
 “ On Wednesday, the-of this month, at six 
 
 o’clock in the evening, my daughter, Doha Maria de 
 
 la Concepcion, P-c-, will assume the habit 
 
 of a Nun of the choir and the black veil in the Con¬ 
 vent of Our Lady of the Incarnation. I have the 
 honor to inform you of tins, entreating you to co¬ 
 operate with your presence, in the solemnity of this 
 
A FAMILY PARTY. 
 
 301 
 
 act, a favor which will be highly esteemed by your 
 affectionate servant, who kisses your hand. 
 
 “Maria Josefa be-. 
 
 Mexico, June-, 1840.” 
 
 Having gone out in the carriage to pay some visits, 
 I suddenly recollected that it was the very morning of 
 the day in which this young girl was to take the veil, 
 and also that it was necessary to inquire where I was 
 to be placed ; for as to entering the church with the 
 crowd on one of these occasions, it is out of the 
 question ; particularly when the girl being, as in the 
 present case, of distinguished family, the ceremony 
 is expected to be peculiarly magnificent. I accord¬ 
 ingly called at the house, was shown up stairs, and 
 to my horror, found myself in the midst of a “goodlie 
 companie,” in rich array, consisting of the relations of 
 the family, to the number of about a hundred per¬ 
 sons ; the Bishop himself in his purple robes and 
 amethysts, a number of priests, the father of the 
 young lady in his general’s uniform ; she herself in 
 purple velvet, with diamonds and pearls, and a crown 
 of flowers ; the corsage of her gown entirely covered 
 with little bows of ribbon of divers colors, which 
 her friends had given her; each adding one, like 
 stones thrown on a cairn in memory of the departed. 
 She had also short sleeves and white satin shoes. 
 
 Being very handsome, with fine black eyes, good 
 teeth and fresh color, and above all with the beauty 
 of youth, for she is but eighteen, she was not dis¬ 
 figured even by this overloaded dress. Her mother, 
 on the contrary, who was to act the part of Madrina, 
 who wore a dress fac-simile, and who was pale and 
 26 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
302 
 
 A FAMILY FEAST. 
 
 sad, her eyes almost extinguished with weeping, 
 looked like a picture of misery in a ball-dress. In 
 the adjoining room, long tables were laid out, on 
 which servants were placing refreshments for the 
 fete about to be given on this joyous occasion. I 
 felt somewhat shocked, and inclined to say with Paul 
 Pry, “ Hope I don’t intrude.” But my apologies 
 were instantly cut short, and I was welcomed with 
 true Mexican hospitality ; repeatedly thanked for my 
 kindness in coming to see the nun, and hospitably 
 pressed to join the family feast. I only got off upon 
 a promise of returning at half past five to accompany 
 them to the ceremony, which, in fact, I greatly pre¬ 
 ferred to going there alone. 
 
 I arrived at the hour appointed, and being led up 
 
 stairs by the Senator Don - -, found the 
 
 morning party, with many additions, lingering over 
 the dessert. There was some gaiety, but evidently 
 forced. It reminded me of a marriage-feast previous 
 to the departure of the bride, who is about to be sep¬ 
 arated from her family for the first time. Yet how 
 different in fact this banquet, where the mother and 
 daughter met together for the last time on earth ! 
 
 At stated periods, indeed, the mother may hear 
 her daughter’s voice speaking to her as from the 
 depths of the tomb ; but she may never more fold 
 her in her arms, never more share in her joys or in 
 her sorrows, or nurse her in sickness ; and when her 
 own last hour arrives, though but a few streets divide 
 them, she may not give her dying blessing to the 
 child who has been for so many years the pride of 
 her eyes and heart. 
 
FAMILY LOVE. 
 
 303 
 
 I have seen no country where families are so knit 
 together as in Mexico, where the affections are so 
 concentrated, or where such devoted respect and 
 obedience are shown by the married sons and daugh¬ 
 ters to their parents. In that respect they always 
 remain as little children. I know many families, of 
 which the married branches continue to live in their 
 father’s house, forming a sort of small colony, and 
 living in the most perfect harmony. They cannot 
 bear the idea of being separated, and nothing but 
 dire necessity ever forces them to leave their father- 
 land. To all the accounts which travellers give 
 them of the pleasures to be met with in European 
 capitals, they turn a deaf ear. Their families are in 
 Mexico —- their parents, and sisters, and relatives — 
 and there is no happiness for them elsewhere. The 
 greater therefore is the sacrifice which those parents 
 make, who from religious motives devote their daugh¬ 
 ters to a conventual life. 
 
 - however, was furious at the whole affair, 
 
 which he said was entirely against the mother’s con¬ 
 sent, though that of the father had been obtained; 
 and pointed out to me the confessor whose influence 
 had brought it about. The girl herself was now 
 very pale, but evidently resolved to conceal her agi¬ 
 tation, and the mother seemed as if she could shed 
 no more tears — quite exhausted with weeping. As 
 the hour for the ceremony drew near, the whole party 
 became more grave and sad, all but the priests, who 
 were smiling and talking together in groups. The 
 girl was not still a moment. She kept walking 
 hastily through the house, taking leave of the ser- 
 
304 
 
 A LAST LOOK. 
 
 vants, and naming probably her last wishes about 
 everything. She was followed by her younger sisters, 
 all in tears. 
 
 But it struck six, and the priests intimated that it 
 was time to move. She and her mother went down 
 stairs alone, and entered the carriage which was to 
 drive them through all the principal streets, to show 
 the nun to the public according to custom, and to let 
 them take their last look, they of her, and she of 
 them. As they got in, we all crowded to the balco¬ 
 nies to see her take leave of her house, her aunts 
 saying, “Yes child, despidete de tu casa, take leave 
 of your house, for you will never see it again ! ” 
 Then came sobs from the sisters, and many of the 
 gentlemen, ashamed of their emotion, hastily quitted 
 the room. I hope, for the sake of humanity, I did 
 not rightly interpret the look of constrained anguish 
 which the poor girl threw from the window of the 
 carriage at the home of her childhood. 
 
 They drove off, and the relations prepared to walk 
 in procession to the church. I walked with the 
 
 Count S-o ; the others followed in pairs. The 
 
 church was very brilliantly illuminated, and as we 
 entered, the band was playing one of Strauss's 
 waltzes ! The crowd was so tremendous that we 
 were nearly squeezed to a jelly in getting to our 
 places. I was carried off my feet between two fat 
 Sehoras in mantillas and shaking diamond pendants, 
 exactly as if I had been packed between two mova¬ 
 ble feather beds. 
 
 They gave me, however, an excellent place, quite 
 close to the grating, beside the Countess de S-o, 
 
THE CEREMONY. 
 
 305 
 
 that is to say, a place to kneel on. A great bustle 
 and much preparation seemed to be going on within 
 the convent, and veiled figures were flitting about, 
 whispering, arranging, &c. Sometimes, a skinny 
 old dame would come close to the grating, and lift¬ 
 ing up her veil, bestow upon the pensive public a 
 generous view of a very haughty and very wrinkled 
 visage of some seventy years standing, and beckon 
 into the church for the major-domo of the convent, 
 (an excellent and profitable situation by the way,) or 
 for padre this or that. Some of the holy ladies re¬ 
 cognised and spoke to me through the grating. 
 
 But, at the discharge of fireworks outside the 
 church, the curtain was dropped, for this was the 
 signal that the nun and her mother had arrived. An 
 opening was made in the crowd as they passed into 
 the church, and the girl, kneeling down, was ques¬ 
 tioned by the Bishop, but I could not make out the 
 dialogue, which was carried on in a low voice. She 
 then passed into the convent by a side door, and her 
 mother, quite exhausted and nearly in hysterics, was 
 supported through the crowd to a place beside us, in 
 front of the grating. The music struck up ; the cur¬ 
 tain was again drawn aside. The scene was as 
 striking here as in the convent of the Santa Teresa, 
 but not so lugubrious. The nuns, all ranged around 
 and carrying lighted tapers in their hands, were 
 dressed in mantles of bright blue, with a gold plate 
 on the left shoulder. Their faces, however, were 
 covered with deep black veils. The girl, kneeling in 
 front, and also bearing a heavy lighted taper, looked 
 beautiful, with her dark hair and rich dress, and the 
 26 * 
 
306 
 
 THE CEREMONY. 
 
 long black lashes resting on her glowing face. The 
 churchmen near the illuminated and magnificently- 
 decked altar, formed as usual a brilliant back ground 
 to the picture. The ceremony was the same as on 
 the former occasion, but there was no sermon. 
 
 The most terrible thing to witness was the last, 
 straining, anxious look which the mother gave her 
 daughter through the grating. She had seen her 
 child pressed to the arms of strangers, and welcomed 
 to her new home. She was no longer hers. All 
 the sweet ties of nature had been rudely severed, 
 and she had been forced to consign her, in the very 
 bloom of youth and beauty, at the very age in which 
 she most required a mother’s care, and when she had 
 but just fulfilled the promise of her childhood, to a 
 living tomb. Still, as long as the curtain had not 
 fallen, she could gaze upon her, as upon one on 
 whom, though dead, the coffin-lid is not yet closed. 
 
 But while the new-made nun was in a blaze of 
 light, and distinct on the foreground, so that we could 
 mark each varying expression of her face, the crowd 
 in the church, and the comparative faintness of the 
 light, probably made it difficult for her to distinguish 
 her mother; for, knowing that the end was at hand, 
 she looked anxiously and hurriedly into the church, 
 without seeming able to fix her eyes on any particu¬ 
 lar object; while her mother seemed as if her eyes 
 were glazed, so intently were they fixed upon her 
 daughter. 
 
 Suddenly, and without any preparation, down fell 
 the black curtain like a pall, and the sobs and tears 
 of the family broke forth. One beautiful little child 
 
THE BISHOP. 
 
 307 
 
 was carried out almost in fits. Water was brought 
 to the poor mother ; and at last, making our way 
 with difficulty through the dense crowd, we got into 
 the sacristy. “ I declare,” said the Countess —— 
 to me, wiping her eyes, “ it is worse than a mar¬ 
 riage ! ” I expressed my horror at the sacrifice of a 
 girl so young that she could not possibly have known 
 her own mind. Almost all the ladies agreed with 
 me, especially all who had daughters, but many of 
 the old gentlemen were of a different opinion. The 
 young mew were decidedly of my way of thinking, 
 but many jroung girls, who were conversing together, 
 seemed rather to envy their friend, who had looked 
 so pretty and graceful, and “ so happy,” and whose 
 dress “ suited her so well;” and to have no objec¬ 
 tion to “ go, and do likewise.” 
 
 I had the honor of a presentation to the Bishop, a 
 fat and portly prelate, with good manners, and well 
 besuiting his priestly garments. I amused myself, 
 while we waited for the carriages, by looking over a 
 pamphlet which lay on the table, containing the cere¬ 
 monial of the veil-taking. When we rose to go, all 
 the ladies of the highest rank devoutly kissed the 
 Bishop’s hand, and I went home, thinking by what 
 law of God a child can thus be dragged from the 
 mother who bore and bred her, and immured in a 
 cloister for life, amongst strangers, to whom she has 
 no tie, and towards whom she owes no duty. That 
 a convent may be a blessed shelter from the calami¬ 
 ties of life, a haven for the unprotected, a resting- 
 place for the weary, a safe and holy asylum, where 
 a new family and kind friends await those whose 
 
308 
 
 VERSES. 
 
 natural ties are broken and whose early friends are 
 gone, I am willing to admit; but it is not in the 
 flower of youth, that the warm heart should be con¬ 
 signed to the cold cloister. Let the young take their 
 chance of sunshine or of storm. The calm and 
 shady retreat is for helpless and unprotected old age. 
 
 -, to whom I described one of these ceremo¬ 
 nies, wrote some verses, suggested by my account of 
 them, which I send you. 
 
 In Tropic gorgeousness, the Lord of Day 
 To the bright chambers of the west retired, 
 
 And with the glory of his parting ray, 
 
 The hundred domes of Mexico he fired, 
 
 When I, with vague and solemn awe inspired, 
 
 Entered the Incarnation’s sacred fane. 
 
 The vaulted roof, the dim aisle far retired. 
 
 Echoed the deep-toned organ’s holy strain 
 
 Which through the incensed air did mournfully complain. 
 
 The veiling curtain suddenly withdrew, 
 
 Op’ning a glorious altar to the sight, 
 
 Where crimson intermixed its regal hue 
 
 With gold and jewels that outblazed the light 
 Of the huge tapers near them flaming bright 
 
 From golden stands ; —the Bishop, mitre-crowned 
 Stood stately near ; — in order due around 
 
 The Sisterhood knelt down, their brows upon the ground. 
 
 The Novice entered: To her doom she went 
 Gems on her robes, and flowers upon her brow. 
 Virgin of tender years, poor innocent; 
 
 Pause — ere thou speak th’ irrevocable vow. 
 
 What if thy heart should change, thy spirit fail ? 
 
 She kneels. The blaclc-robed sisters cease to bow. 
 They raise a hymn which seems a funeral wail, 
 While o’er the pageant falls the dark, lugubrious veil. 
 
VERSES. 
 
 309 
 
 Again the veil up. On earth she lies — 
 
 With the drear mantle of the pall spread o’er, 
 
 The new-made nun, the living sacrifice, 
 
 Dead to this world of our’s for evermore ! 
 
 The sun his parting rays has ceased to pour, 
 
 As loth to lend liis light to such a scene . . . 
 
 The Sisters raise her from the sacred floor, 
 Supporting her their holy arms between, 
 
 The mitred priest stands up with patriarchal mien, 
 
 And speaks the Benediction ; all is done. 
 
 A life-in-death must her long years consume. 
 
 She clasped her new-made sisters one by one. 
 
 As the black shadows their embraces gave, 
 
 They seemed like spectres from their place of doom, 
 Stealing from out eternal night’s blind cave, 
 
 To meet their comrade new, and hail her to the grave. 
 
 The curtain fell again, the scene was o’er, 
 
 The pageant gone — its glitter and its pride, 
 
 And it would be a pageant and no more, 
 
 But for the maid miscalled the Heavenly Bride. 
 
 If I, an utter stranger, unallied 
 
 To her by slightest ties, some grief sustain, 
 
 What feels the yearning mother from whose side 
 -Is torn the child whom she hath reared in vain, 
 
 'To share her joys no more, no more to soothe her pain ! 
 
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST. 
 
 San Agustin — The gambling fete. — The beauties of the village 
 — The road from Mexico — Entry to San Agustin — The gam¬ 
 bling houses — San Antonio — The Pedregal—Last day of 
 the fete — The Cock-pit — The Boxes — The Cock-fight — De¬ 
 corum— Comparisons— Dinner — Ball at Calvario — House of 
 General Moran—View of the gambling tables—The Advo¬ 
 cate — Ball at the Plaza de Gallos — Return to Mexico — Re¬ 
 flections — Conversation between two Ministers 
 
 15th June. 
 
 Since my last letter we have been at San Agustin 
 de las Cuevas, which, when I last saw it, was a de¬ 
 serted village, but which during three days in the 
 year, presents the appearance of a vast bee-hive or 
 ant-hill. San Agustin ! At the name how many 
 hearts throb with emotion ! How many hands 
 are mechanically thrust into empty pockets ! How 
 many visions of long-vanished golden ounces flit be¬ 
 fore aching eyes ! What faint crowing of wounded 
 cocks! What tinkling of guitars and blowing of 
 horns come upon the ear ! Some indeed there be, 
 who can look round upon their well-stored hacienda 
 and easy rolling carriages, and remember the day 
 when with threadbare coat, and stake of three mod¬ 
 est ounces, they first courted Fortune’s favors; and, 
 who being then indigent and enjoying an indifferent 
 reputation, found themselves, at the conclusion of a 
 few successive San Agustins, the fortunate propri- 
 
SAN AGUSTIN. 
 
 311 
 
 etors of gold, and land, and houses; and moreover 
 with an unimpeachable fame ; for he who can fling 
 gold dust in his neighbor’s eyes, prevents him from 
 seeing too clearly. But these favorites of the blind 
 goddess are few and far between, and they have for 
 the most part, with a view to greater security, be¬ 
 come holders or sharers of banks at San Agustin, 
 thus investing their fortune in a secure fund; more 
 so decidedly, if we may believe the newspaper re¬ 
 ports, than in the Bank of the United States at this 
 present writing. 
 
 Time, in its revolutions, whirling all things out of 
 their places, has made no change in the annual fete 
 of San Agustin. Fashions alter. The graceful 
 mantilla gradually gives place to the ungraceful bon¬ 
 net. The old painted coach, moving slowly like a 
 caravan, with Guido’s Aurora painted on its gaudy 
 panels, is dismissed for the London-built carriage. 
 Old customs have passed away. The ladies no 
 longer sit on the door-sills, eating roast duck with 
 their fingers, or with the aid of tortillas. Even the 
 Chinampas have become stationary, and have occa¬ 
 sionally joined the Continent. But the annual fete 
 of San Agustin is built on a more solid foundation 
 than taste, or custom, or floating soil. It is founded 
 upon that love of gambling, which is said to be a pas¬ 
 sion inherent in our nature, and which is certainly 
 impregnated with the Mexican constitution, in man, 
 woman and child. The beggars gamble at the corn¬ 
 ers of the streets, or under the arches ; the little 
 boys gamble in groups in the villages ; the coachmen 
 
312 
 
 THE THREE DAYS. 
 
 and footmen gamble at the doors of the theatre, 
 while waiting for their masters. 
 
 But while their hand is thus Icept in all the year 
 round, there are three days sacredly set apart an¬ 
 nually, in which every accommodation is given to 
 those who are bent upon ruining themselves or their 
 neighbors ; whilst every zest that society can afford, 
 is held out to render the temptation more alluring. 
 As religion is called in to sanctify everything, right 
 or wrong; as the robber will plant a cross at the 
 mouth of his cave, and the pulque shops do occa¬ 
 sionally call themselves “ Pulquerias of the Most 
 Holy Virgin,” so this season of gambling is fixed for 
 the fete of Pascua, (Whitsunday) and the churches 
 and the gambling-houses are thrown open simulta¬ 
 neously. 
 
 The village is in itself pretty and picturesque; 
 and as a stone at its entry informs us, was built by 
 the active Viceroy Revillagigedo, with the product, 
 as-assured us, of two lotteries. It is charm¬ 
 
 ingly situated, in the midst of handsome villas and 
 orchards, whose high walls, overtopped by fruit trees, 
 border the narrow lanes. At this season, the trees 
 are loaded with the yellow chabacano and the purple 
 plum, already ripe ; while the pear trees are bending 
 under the weight of their fruit. The gardens are 
 full of flowers ; the roses in their last bloom, covering 
 the ground with their pink leaves, and jasmine and 
 sweet pease in profusion, making the air fragrant. 
 The rainy season has scarce set in, though frequent 
 showers have laid the dust, and refreshed the air. 
 
PREPARATIONS. 
 
 313 
 
 The country villas are filled with all that is gayest, 
 and most distinguished in Mexico, and every house 
 and every room in the village has been hired for 
 months in advance. The ladies are in their most 
 elegant toilettes, and looking forward to a delightful 
 whirl of dancing, cock-fighting, gambling, dining, 
 dressing, and driving about. 
 
 The high-road leading from Mexico to San Agus- 
 tin is covered with vehicles of every description ; 
 carriages, diligences, hackney-coaches, carts and 
 carratelas. Those who are not fortunate enough to 
 possess any wheeled conveyance, come out on horse, 
 ass or mule ; single, double, or treble, if necessary; 
 and many hundreds, with visions of silver before 
 their eyes, and a few clacos, (pence) hid under their 
 rags, trudge out on foot. The President himself, in 
 carriage and six, and attended by his aids-de-camp, 
 sanctions by his presence the amusements of the 
 fete. The Mexican generals and other officers, fol¬ 
 low in his wake, and the gratifying spectacle may 
 not unfrequently be seen, of the President leaning 
 from his box in the plaza de gallos, and betting upon a 
 cock, with a coatless, bootless, hatless and probably 
 worthless ragamuffin in the pit. Every one, therefore, 
 however humble his degree, has the pleasure, while 
 following his speculative inclinations, of reflecting 
 that he treads in the steps of the magnates of the 
 land ; and as Sam Weller would say; “ Vot a con¬ 
 solation that must be to his feelings ! ” 
 
 At all events, nothing can be gayer than the ap¬ 
 pearance of the village, as your carriage makes its 
 way through the narrow lanes into the principal 
 27 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
314 
 
 SAN ANTONIO. 
 
 plaza, amidst the assembled crowd of coaches and 
 foot-passengers; though the faces of the people bear 
 evidence that pleasure alone lias not brought them 
 to San Agustin. All round the square are the 
 gambling-houses, where for three nights and three 
 days every table is occupied. At the principal 
 monies nothing is played but gold, but as there is 
 accommodation for all classes, so there are silver 
 tables in the inferior houses, while outside are rows 
 of tables on which are heaps of copper, covered with 
 a ragged awning, and surrounded by leperos and 
 blanketed Indians, playing monte in imitation of 
 their betters, though on a scale more suited to their 
 finances. 
 
 Having left Mexico early in the morning, we 
 stopped to breakfast at San Antonio, a noble haci¬ 
 enda, about four leagues from Mexico, belonging to 
 the Dowager Marquesa de Vivanco, where we break¬ 
 fasted with a large party. It is a fine solid mass of 
 building, and as you enter the court-yard, through a 
 deep archway, the great outhouses, stables, and 
 especially the granary, look like remains of feudal¬ 
 ism, they are on so large and magnificent a scale. It 
 is an immense and valuable property, producing both 
 maize and maguey, and the hospitality of the family, 
 who are amongst our earliest friends here, is upon as 
 large a scale as everything that belongs to them. 
 We had a splendid breakfast, in a fine old hall, and 
 staid but a short time to visit the gardens and the 
 chapel, as we were anxious to arrive at San Agustin 
 in time for the cock-fight. 
 
 It is singular, that while San Agustin is situated 
 
THE PEDREGAL. 
 
 315 
 
 in the midst of the most fertile and productive coun¬ 
 try, there should lie opposite to it, and bounded as 
 it were by the graceful Peruvian trees and silver 
 poplars which surround a small church on the other 
 side of the high road, a great tract of black lava, 
 sterile, bleak, and entirely destitute of vegetation, 
 called the Pedregal. This covers the country all 
 along to San Agustin and to the base of the moun¬ 
 tain of Ajusco, which lies behind it, contrasting 
 strangely with the beautiful groves and gardens in 
 its neighborhood, and looking as if it had been cursed 
 for some crime committed there. The high road, 
 which runs nearly in a direct line from the hacienda 
 to San Agustin, is broad and in tolerable repair ; 
 but before arriving there, it is so little attended to, 
 that during the rainy season it might be passed in 
 canoes ; yet this immense formation of ferruginous 
 lava and porphyritic rock lies conveniently in its 
 vicinity. A large sum, supposed to be employed in 
 mending the road, is collected annually at the toll, 
 close to San Antonio. For each carriage two dollars 
 are asked, and for carts and animals in proportion. 
 The proprietor of this toll or postazgo is also the 
 owner of the plaza de gallos, where a dollar is paid 
 for entry, the sums produced by which go exclusively 
 to enrich the same individual. The government has 
 
 no advantage from it. 
 
 The last day of the fete is considered the best, 
 and it is most crowded on that day, both by families 
 from Mexico and by foreigners who go solely for 
 pleasure, though not unfrequently tempted to do 
 a little business on their own account. In fact, the 
 
316 
 
 COCK-PIT. 
 
 temptations are great ; and it must be difficult for a 
 young man to withstand them. 
 
 We went to the gallos about three o’clock. The 
 plaza was crowded, and the ladies in their boxes 
 looked like a parterre of different colored flowers. 
 But whilst the Senoras in their boxes did honor 
 to the fete by their brilliant toilette, the gentlemen 
 promenaded round the circle in jackets, high and low 
 being on the same curtailed footing, and certainly in 
 a style of dress more befitting the exhibition. The 
 President and his suite were already there, also seve¬ 
 ral of the foreign ministers. 
 
 Meanwhile, the cocks crowed valiantly, bets were 
 adjusted, and even the women entered into the spirit 
 of the scene, taking bets with the gentlemen sotta 
 voce in their boxes, upon such and such favorite ani¬ 
 mal. As a small knife is fastened to the leg of each 
 cock, the battle seldom lasted long, one or other fall¬ 
 ing every few minutes in a pool of blood. Then 
 there was a clapping of hands, mingled with the loud 
 crowing of some unfortunate cock, who was giving 
 himself airs previous to a combat where he was proba¬ 
 bly destined to crow his last. It has a curious effect 
 to European eyes, to see young ladies of good family, 
 looking peculiarly feminine and gentle, sanctioning, 
 by their presence, this savage diversion. It is no 
 doubt the effect of early habit, and you will say that 
 at least it is no worse than a bull-fight ; which is 
 certain — vet cruel as the latter is, I find something 
 more en grand, more noble, in the 
 
 “ Ungentle sport that oft invites 
 The Spanish maid, and cheers the Spanish swain 
 
COCK-FIGHT. 
 
 317 
 
 in the roaring of the “ lord of lowing herds” — the 
 galloping of the fine horses, the skill of the riders, 
 the gay dresses, the music and the agile matador; in 
 short, in the whole pomp and circumstance of the 
 combat, than when one looks quietly on to see two 
 birds peck each other’s eyes out, and cut each other 
 to pieces. Unlike cock-pits in other countries, at¬ 
 tended by blacklegs and pickpockets and gentlemanly 
 roues, by far the largest portion of the assembly in 
 the pit was composed of the first young men in Mex¬ 
 ico, and for that matter, of the first old ones also. 
 There was neither confusion, nor noise, nor even loud 
 talking, far less swearing, amongst the lowest of those 
 assembled in the ring ; and it is this quiet and or¬ 
 derly behavior which throws over all these incongru¬ 
 ities a cloak of decency and decorum, that hides 
 their impropriety so completely, that even foreigners 
 who have lived here a few years, and who were at 
 first struck with astonishment by these things, are 
 now quite reconciled to them. 
 
 As far as the company went, it might have been 
 the House of Representatives in Washington ; the 
 ladies in the gallery listening to the debates, and the 
 members in the body of the house surrounding 
 
 Messrs.-and-, or any other two vehement 
 
 orators ; applauding their biting remarks and cutting 
 sarcasms, and encouraging them to crow over each 
 other. The President might have been the speaker, 
 and the corps diplomatique represented itself. 
 
 We had an agreeable dinner at the E-s, and 
 
 afterwards accompanied them to the Calvario, a hill 
 where there was a ball al fresco, which was rather 
 27* 
 
318 
 
 GAMBLING TABLES. 
 
 amusing, and then paid a visit to the family of 
 General Moran, who has a beautiful house, and gar¬ 
 dens in the neighborhood. We found a large party 
 assembled, and amongst them the President. After¬ 
 wards, accompanied by the - minister and the 
 
 ladies of our party, we went to take a view of the 
 gambling tables, and opened our eyes at the heaps of 
 gold, which changed owners every minute. I saw 
 
 C-a, a millionaire, win and lose a thousand 
 
 ounces, apparently with equal indifference. A little 
 advocate, having won two thousand five hundred 
 ounces, wisely ordered his carriage and set off for 
 Mexico, with the best fee he had ever received in his 
 life. Ladies do not generally look on at the tables, 
 but may if they please, and especially if they be 
 strangers. Each gambling-room was well fitted up, 
 and looked like a private apartment. 
 
 We then returned home and dressed for the ball, 
 which is given in the evening in the plaza de gallos. 
 We first went up stairs to a box, but I afterwards 
 
 took the advice of M. de-and came down to 
 
 see the dancers. There were ladies in full dress, and 
 gentlemen in white jackets — rather inconsistent. 
 The company, though perfectly quiet and well-be¬ 
 haved, were not very select, and were, on that ac¬ 
 count, particularly amusing. Madame de-and 
 
 I walked about, and certainly laughed much more 
 than we should have done in a more distinguished 
 society. 
 
 About two in the mornins: we returned to Mexico, 
 
 O 5 
 
 and as I this moment receive a note from the Ameri¬ 
 can Minister, informing me that the packet from Vera 
 
FORMER FASHIONS. 
 
 319 
 
 Cruz is about to sail, I shall send off my letters now ; 
 and should we still be here next year, I shall then 
 give you a more detailed description of the fete, of 
 the ball, both at Calvario and in the cock-pit, and also 
 of the “ high life below stairs ” gambling, at which 
 the scenes are impayable. In one respect, the fashions 
 at San Agustin are altered from what they were a few 
 years ago, when the Senoras used to perform five 
 elaborate and distinct toilettes daily ; the first in the 
 morning, the second for the cock-fight, the third for 
 dinner, the fourth for the ball on the hill of Calvary, 
 and the fifth for the ball in the evening. I am told, 
 that as they danced in the open air, on the hill, with 
 all their diamonds and pearls on, in the midst of an 
 immense concourse of people, a great many jewels 
 were constantly lost, which the Uperos used after¬ 
 wards to search for, and pick up from the grass ; a 
 rich harvest. Though they still dress a great deal, 
 they are contented with changing their toilette twice, 
 or at the most, three times in the course of the day. 
 
 Upon the whole, these three days are excessively 
 amusing, and as all ranks and conditions are mingled, 
 one sees much more variety than at a ball in the city. 
 
 On their way home, C-n and Senor-dis¬ 
 
 cussed the effects likely to be produced on the morals 
 
 of the people by this fete. Senor-, like nearly all 
 
 the wisest men here, persists in considering gambling 
 an innocent amusement, and declares, that at all events, 
 this fete ought never to be done away with. In his 
 opinion, it conduces to the happiness of the people, 
 gives them an annual pleasure to look forward to, and 
 by the mingling of all ranks which then takes place, 
 
320 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 keeps up a good feeling between the higher and lower 
 
 orders. C-n asked him why, if such were the 
 
 case, the government did not, at least, endeavor to 
 draw some advantage from it, after the manner of the 
 Count de Revillagigedo — why, as the bank, by the 
 nature of the game, has, besides a great capital, which 
 swallows up all the smaller ones, an immense profit, 
 amounting to twenty-five per cent., they do not make 
 the bankers pay four or five per cent., and charge 
 half a dollar or more to each individual who enters 
 to gamble ; with which money they might beautify 
 the village, make a public paseo, a good road, a canal 
 to Mexico, &c. 
 
 I thought that whatever the government might feel 
 on this subject, neither the bankers nor the gamblers 
 would relish the insinuation. I shall write in a few 
 
 days by the Baron de-Minister from-, who 
 
 leaves Mexico in a fortnight. 
 
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND. 
 
 Countess C-a— Gutierrez Estrada — Dinner at General Mo¬ 
 
 ran’s— Dowager Marquesa — Fete at San Antonio—Ap¬ 
 proach of the rainy season — Diamonds and plate — Great ball 
 — Night travelling—Severe storm—Chapter of accidents-— 
 Corpus Christi—Poblana dress — Bookclub — Ball — Hum¬ 
 ming bird — Franciscan friar—Missions to Old and New 
 California— Zeal and endurance of the missionaries — Present 
 condition — Convent gardener. 
 
 17tli June. 
 
 As we dine nearly every Sunday with the Countess 
 
 de la C~-a at Tacubaya, where she keeps open 
 
 house to all her friends, we have had the pleasure of 
 becoming intimately acquainted with her son-in-law, 
 Senor Gutierrez Estrada, who, with his amiable wife, 
 
 has lately returned from Europe. 
 
 A great dinner was given us the other day by 
 General Moran and his lady, the Marquesa de Vi- 
 vanco, at San Agustin. We went early, that we 
 might have time to walk about the garden, which 
 is beautiful, and to visit an artificial cave there, 
 which we found lighted up with colored lamps, 
 and where a most fascinating species of cold milk 
 punch with cakes, was served to the company. The 
 dinner would certainly have been superb in any 
 country ; the family have travelled a great deal in 
 Europe, (per force, the General having been exiled 
 
322 
 
 DIAMONDS AND PLATE. 
 
 for several years,) and are amongst the oldest and 
 richest in Mexico. The Dowager Marquesa has a 
 most patriarchal family of daughters and grand¬ 
 daughters, and of the large party assembled at table, 
 nearly all were composed of its different members. 
 In the evening we had a pleasant dance under the 
 trees. 
 
 20th. — Being invited yesterday to a fete at San 
 Antonio, we left Mexico about eight o’clock, by the 
 great causeway leading to San Agustin. The day 
 was peculiarly brilliant, but the rainy season is now 
 announcing its approach by frequent showers towards 
 evening. We found a large party assembled, and 
 about twelve o’clock, sat down to a magnificent 
 breakfast of about sixty persons. Everything was 
 solid silver ; even the plates. A vast capital is sunk 
 in diamonds and plate in this country, no good sign 
 of the state of commerce. The ladies in general 
 were dressed in white embroidered muslins, over 
 white or colored satin, and one or two Paris dresses 
 shone conspicuous. There was one specimen of real 
 
 Mexican beauty ; the Sehora-, a face perhaps 
 
 more Indian than Spanish, very dark, with fine eyes, 
 beautiful teeth, very long, dark hair, and full of ex¬ 
 pression. The house, which is immensely large, is 
 furnished, or rather unfurnished, in the style of all 
 Mexican haciendas. After breakfast, we had music, 
 dancing, walking and billiard-playing. Some boleros 
 were very gracefully danced by a daughter of the 
 Marquesa’s, and they also showed us some dances of 
 the country. The fete terminated with the most 
 beautiful supper I almost ever saw. A great hall was 
 
OVERTURN. 
 
 323 
 
 lighted with colored lamps, the walls entirely lined 
 with green branches, and hung with fresh garlands of 
 flowers most tastefully arranged. There was a great 
 deal of gaiety and cordiality, of magnificence without 
 ceremony, and of riches without pretension. 
 
 Although warned by various showers that a bad 
 night would probably set in, and although it was too 
 likely that the hospitality within the house would be 
 extended to our coachmen, and even though the 
 whole party were strongly pressed by the Marquesa 
 to pass the night there, so that it was with difficulty 
 we resisted her entreaties to remain, we did, in the 
 face of all this, set off at twelve o’clock at night to 
 return to Mexico ; about seven carriages together, 
 with various gentlemen riding. Though very dark, 
 there was no rain, and we flattered ourselves that it 
 would keep fair till we reached the city. The Min¬ 
 ister of the Interior, who is married to a daughter of 
 the Marquesa, C-n and I, and la Guera Rodri¬ 
 
 guez, set off in one carriage. Some carriages had 
 lamps ; others had none. Some had six horses — 
 we had six mules, and an escort of dragoons. We 
 had not gone two miles before a thunder-storm came 
 on ; and the black clouds which had been gathering 
 above our heads, burst forth in torrents of rain. The 
 wind was tremendous. All the lamps were extin¬ 
 guished. The horses waded up to their knees in 
 mud and water. Suddenly there was a crash, fol¬ 
 lowed by loud cries. A carriage was overturned, in 
 which were the Senora L-and a party of gentle¬ 
 
 men. In the midst of this awful storm, and perhaps 
 still more bewildered by generous liquor, their coach- 
 
324 
 
 CORPUS CHRISTI. 
 
 man had lost his way, and lodged them all in a ditch. 
 The poor Senora was dreadfully bruised, her head 
 cut, and her wrist dislocated. In the darkness and 
 confusion she was extricated with difficulty, and 
 placed in another carriage. 
 
 Our mules stood still. As far as the noise of the 
 storm would allow us to hear, we made out that our 
 coachman also had lost the road. Two dragoons 
 rode up to direct him. One fell, horse and all, into 
 a deep ditch, where he remained till the next morn¬ 
 ing. Another carriage came ploughing its way be¬ 
 hind us. Another exclamation in the darkness ! A 
 mule had fallen and broken his traces, and plunged 
 into the water. The poor animal could not be found. 
 Never was there such a chapter of accidents. We 
 were the only carriage-load which escaped entirely, 
 owing chiefly to the sobriety of the coachman. Very 
 slowly, and after sundry detentions, we arrived in 
 Mexico towards morning, very tired, but with neither 
 broken bones nor bruises. 
 
 18th. — Day of the Corpus Christi, in which the 
 Host is carried through the city in great procession, 
 at which the President, in full uniform, the Arch¬ 
 bishop, and all the ministers, &c., assist. In former 
 days this ceremony took place on Holy Thursday, 
 but finding that, on account of the various ceremo¬ 
 nies of the holy week, it could not be kept with due 
 solemnity, another day was set apart for its celebra¬ 
 tion. We went to a window in the square, to see 
 the procession, which was very brilliant; all the 
 troops out, and the streets crowded. Certainly, a 
 stranger entering Mexico on one of these days, 
 
A JAMAICA. 
 
 325 
 
 would be struck with surprise at its apparent wealth. 
 Everything connected with the church is magnifi¬ 
 cent. 
 
 This evening the Senora A-came after it was 
 
 dark, in a Poblana dress, which she had just bought 
 to wear at a Jamaica, which they are going to have 
 in the country ; a sort of fair, where all the girls dis¬ 
 guise themselves in peasants’ dresses, and go about 
 selling fruit, lemonade, vegetables, &c., to each 
 other ; a very ancient Mexican amusement. This 
 dress cost her some hundred dollars. The top of the 
 petticoat is yellow satin ; the rest, which is of scarlet 
 cashmere, is embroidered in gold and silver. Her 
 hair was fastened back with a thick silver comb, and 
 her ornaments were very handsome, coral set in gold. 
 Her shoes white satin, embroidered in gold ; the 
 sleeves and body of the chemise, which is of the 
 finest cambric, trimmed with rich lace ; and the pet¬ 
 ticoat, which comes below the dress, shows two 
 flounces of Valenciennes. She looks beautiful in 
 this dress, which will not be objected to in the coun¬ 
 try, though it might not suit a fancy ball in Mexico. 
 
 June 21th. — I was awakened this morning by 
 hearing that two boxes had arrived from New York, 
 containing books, letters, &c.; all very acceptable. 
 We also received a number of old newspapers by 
 post, for which we had to pay eighteen dollars ! 
 Each sheet costs a real and a half; a mistaken source 
 of profit in a Republic, where the general diffusion of 
 knowledge is of so much importance; for this not. 
 only applies to the introduction of French and Eng¬ 
 lish, but also of Spanish newspapers. Senors Gu- 
 28 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
3-26 
 
 NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 tirez Estrada and Canedo used every effort to reduce 
 this duty on newspapers, but in vain. The post-office 
 opposes its reduction, fearing to be deprived of an 
 imaginary rent; imaginary, because so few persons 
 comparatively, think it worth their while to go to 
 this expense. 
 
 There is but one daily newspaper in Mexico, “ La 
 Gazeta del Gobierno,” (the government paper) and 
 it is filled with orders and decrees. An opposition 
 paper, the “ Cosmopolita,” is published twice a 
 week ; also a Spanish paper, the “ Hesperia ; ” both, 
 (especially the last) are well written. There is also 
 the Mosquito, so called, from its stinging sarcasms. 
 Now and then another with a new title appears, like 
 a shooting star, but, from want of support, or from 
 some other motive, is suddenly extinguished. 
 
 Enlightened individuals like Don Lucas Alaman 
 and Count Cortina have published newspapers, but 
 not for any length of time. Count Cortina especially, 
 edited a very witty and brilliant paper called the 
 “ Zurriago ,” the “ Scourge,” and another called the 
 “ Mono, ” the “ Ape ; ” and in many of his articles 
 he was tolerably severe upon the incorrect Spanish of 
 his brother editors, of which no one can be a better 
 judge, he having been a member of the “ Academia 
 de la Lengua,” in Spain. 
 
 The only kind of monthly review in Mexico is 
 the “ Mosaico Megicano ,” whose editor has made his 
 fortune by his own activity and exertions. Fre¬ 
 quently it contains more translations than original 
 matter; but from time to time it publishes scientific 
 articles, said to be written by Don J. M. Bustamante, 
 
BOOKS. 
 
 327 
 
 which are very valuable, and occasionally a brilliant 
 article from the pen of Count Cortina. General 
 Orbegoso, who is of Spanish origin, is also a con¬ 
 tributor. Sometimes, though rarely, it publishes 
 “ documentos ineditos,” (unedited documents) con¬ 
 nected with Mexican antiquities, and Mexican natu¬ 
 ral history and biography, which are very important; 
 and now and then, it contains a little poetical gem, I 
 know not whether original or not, but exceedingly 
 beautiful. So far as it goes, this review is one great 
 means of spreading knowledge, at least amongst the 
 better classes ; but I understand that the editor, Don 
 Ygnacio Cumplido, a very courteous, intelligent 
 man, complains that it does not pay. 
 
 There are no circulating libraries in Mexico. 
 Books are at least double the price that they are in 
 Europe. There is no diffusion of useful knowledge 
 amongst the people ; neither cheap pamphlets nor 
 cheap magazines written for their amusement or in¬ 
 struction ; but this is less owing to want of attention 
 to their interests on the part of many good and en¬ 
 lightened men, than to the unsettled state of the 
 country; for the blight of civil war prevents the best 
 systems from ripening. 
 
 Fortunately, there is an English society here, a 
 kind of book-club, who, with their minister, have 
 united in a subscription to order from England all 
 the new publications, and as C-——n is a member of 
 this society, we are not so arricres in regard to the 
 literature of the day as might be supposed. Like 
 all English societies, its basis is a good dinner, which 
 each member gives in turn, once a month, after 
 
328 
 
 ENGLISH BOOK-CLUB. 
 
 which there is a sale of the books that have been 
 read, and propositions for new books are given in to 
 the President. It is an excellent plan, and I believe 
 is in part adopted by other foreigners here. But 
 Germans of a certain class do not seem to be suffi¬ 
 ciently numerous for such an undertaking, and the 
 French in Mexico, barring some distinguished ex¬ 
 ceptions, are apt to be amongst the very worst speci¬ 
 mens of that people which “ le plaisant pays de 
 France” can furnish forth. 
 
 We went lately to a ball given by a young Eng¬ 
 lishman, which was very pretty, and where nearly all 
 the English were collected. Of families, there are 
 not more than half a dozen resident here, the mem¬ 
 bers of whom form a striking contrast in complexion 
 to the Mexicanas. With very few exceptions, (and 
 these in the case of English women married to for¬ 
 eigners) they keep themselves entirely aloof from the 
 Mexicans, live quietly in their own houses, into which 
 they have transplanted as much English comfort as 
 possible, rarely travel, and naturally find Mexico the 
 
 dullest of cities. . . C-n has gone to dine with 
 
 the English minister, and I am left alone in this large 
 room, with nothing but a humming bird to keep me 
 company; the last of my half dozen. It looks like 
 a large blue fly, and is perfectly tame, but will not 
 live many days. 
 
 I was startled by a solemn voice, saying, “ Ave Ma¬ 
 ria Purissima! ” And looking up, there stood in the 
 door-way, a “ friar of orders grey,” bringing some 
 
 message to C-n from the head of the convent of 
 
 San Fernando; with which monks C-n has 
 
MISSIONS. 
 
 329 
 
 formed a great intimacy, chiefly in consequence of 
 the interest which he has taken in the history of their 
 missions to California. 
 
 In fact, when we hear the universal outcry that is 
 raised against these communities for the inutility of 
 their lives, it is but just that exceptions should be 
 made in favor of those orders, who, like the monks 
 of San Fernando, have dispersed their missionaries 
 over some of the most miserable parts of the globe, 
 and who, undeterred by danger, and by the prospect 
 of death, have carried light to the most benighted 
 savages. These institutions are of a very remote 
 date. A learned Jesuit monk, Eusebio Kuhn, is said 
 to have been the first who discovered that California 
 was a peninsula. In 1683 the Jesuits had formed 
 establishments in Old California, and for the first 
 time it was made known, that the country which had 
 until then been considered an El Dorado, rich in all 
 precious metals and diamonds, was arid, stony, and 
 without water or earth fit for vegetation ; that where 
 there is a spring of water, it is to be found amongst 
 the bare rocks, and where there is earth, there is 
 no water. A few spots were found by these indus¬ 
 trious men, uniting these advantages, and there they 
 founded their first missions. 
 
 But the general hatred with which the Jesuits 
 were regarded, excited suspicion against them, and 
 it \vas generally supposed that their accounts were 
 false, and that they were privately becoming pos¬ 
 sessed of much treasure. A visitador (surveyor) 
 was sent to examine into the truth, and though he 
 could discover no traces of gold or silver, he was as- 
 28 * 
 
330 
 
 NEW CALIFORNIA. 
 
 tonished by the industry and zeal with which they 
 had cultivated the barren and treeless waste. In a 
 few years they had built sixteen villages, and when 
 they were expelled in 1767, the Dominican friars of 
 Mexico took their place. 
 
 Until these missions were established, and in every 
 part of the peninsula which is not included in the 
 territory of the missions, the savages were the most 
 degraded specimens of humanity existing. More de¬ 
 graded than the beasts of the field, they lay all day 
 upon their faces on the arid sand, basking in the 
 heat; they abhorred all species of clothing, and their 
 only religion was a secret horror that caused them to 
 tremble at the idea of three divinities, belonging to 
 three different tribes, and which divinities were 
 themselves supposed to feel a mortal hatred, and to 
 wage perpetual war against each other. 
 
 Undeterred by the miserable condition both of 
 human and of vegetable nature, these missionaries 
 cultivated the ground, established colonies, made im¬ 
 portant astronomical observations, and devoted them¬ 
 selves to science, to agriculture, and to the ameliora¬ 
 tion of the condition of these wretched savages. 
 
 In New California, the missions were under the 
 charge of thirty-six Franciscan friars, under whom 
 the most extraordinary progress in civilization took 
 place; since in little more than thirty years, upwards 
 of thirty-three thousand Indians were baptized, and 
 eight thousand marriages had taken place. The soil 
 being fertile and the climate more benign than in the 
 other California, in eighteen missions established 
 there, they cultivated corn, wheat, maize, &,c., and 
 
MONKS OF SAN FERNANDO. 
 
 331 
 
 introduced vegetables and fruit trees from Spain; 
 amongst these the vine and the olive, from which 
 excellent wine and oil were made, all through that 
 part of the country. 
 
 Amongst the monks destined to these distant mis¬ 
 sions, were those of San Fernando. There, banish¬ 
 ed from the world, deprived of all the advantages 
 of civilization, they devoted themselves to the task 
 of taming the wild Indians ; introduced marriage 
 amongst them, taught them to cultivate the ground, 
 together with some of the most simple arts; assisted 
 their wants, reproved their sins, and transplanted the 
 beneficent doctrines of Christianity amongst them ; 
 using no arms but the influence which religion and 
 kindness, united with extreme patience, had over 
 their stubborn natures ; and making what Humboldt, 
 in speaking of the Jesuit Missions, calls “ a pacific 
 conquest ” of the country. ' 
 
 Many were the hardships which these poor men 
 endured ; changed from place to place ; at one time 
 ordered to some barren shore, where it was necessary 
 to recommence their labors, —■ at another, recalled to 
 the capital by orders of the prelate, in conjunction 
 with the wishes of their brethren, among whom 
 there was a species of congress, called by them a 
 capitulo. No increase of rank, no reward, no praise, 
 inspired their labors ; their only recompense was 
 their intimate conviction of doing good to their fel¬ 
 low-creatures. 
 
 In the archives of the convent there still exist pa¬ 
 pers, proving the hardships which these men under¬ 
 went ; the zeal with which they applied themselves 
 
332 
 
 SUPPRESSION OF THE MISSIONS. 
 
 to the study of the languages of the country; (and 
 when we are informed that in the space of one hun¬ 
 dred and eighty leagues, nineteen different languages 
 are spoken, it was no such easy task) and containing 
 their descriptions of its physical and moral state, 
 more or less well written, according to their different 
 degrees of instruction or talent. 
 
 It frequently happened that marketable goods and 
 even provisions had to be sent by sea to those mis¬ 
 sionaries who lived in the most savage and unculti¬ 
 vated parts of the peninsula; and a curious anec¬ 
 dote on this subject was related to C-n by one 
 
 of these men who is now a gardener by profession. 
 It happened that some one sent to the monks, amongst 
 other things, a case of fine Malaga raisins ; and one 
 of the monks, whose name I forget, sowed a number 
 of the dried seeds. In process of time they sprouted 
 up, became vines, and produced fine grapes, from 
 which the best wine in California was made. 
 
 When the independence was declared, and that 
 revolutionary fury, which makes a merit of destroying 
 every establishment, good or bad, which is the work 
 of the opposite party, broke forth ; the Mexicans, to 
 prove their hatred to the mother country, destroyed 
 these beneficent institutions ; thus committing an er¬ 
 ror as fatal in its results as when in 1828 they ex¬ 
 pelled so many rich proprietors, who were followed 
 into exile by their numerous families and by their 
 old servants, who gave them in these times of trouble, 
 proofs of attachment and fidelity belonging to a race 
 now scarcely existing here, except amongst a few 
 of the oldest families. 
 
CONSEQUENCES. 
 
 333 
 
 The result has been, that the frontiers, being now 
 unprotected by the military garrisons or presidios, 
 which were established there, and deserted by the 
 missionaries, the Indians are no longer kept under 
 subjection, either by the force of arms or by the 
 good counsels and persuasive influence of their 
 padres. The Mexican territory is in consequence 
 perpetually exposed to their invasions—whole fami¬ 
 lies are massacred by the savages, who exchange 
 guns for rifles, which they already know how to 
 use, and these evil consequences are occasionally 
 and imperfectly averted at a great expense to the 
 republic. Bustamante has indeed been making an 
 investigation lately as to the funds and general con¬ 
 dition of these establishments, with the intention of 
 reestablishing some similar institutions; but as yet 
 I believe that nothing decisive has been done in this 
 respect. 
 
 Near the convent there is a beautiful garden, 
 where we sometimes walk in the morning, cultivated 
 by an old monk, who, after spending a laborious life 
 in these distant missions, is now enjoying a contented 
 old age among his plants and flowers. Perhaps you 
 are tired of my prosing, (caused by the apparition of 
 the old lay-brother) and would prefer some account 
 of him in verse. 
 
 An aged monk in San Fernando dwells, 
 
 An innocent and venerable man ; 
 
 His earlier days were spent within its cells, 
 
 And end obscurely as they first began. 
 
334 
 
 CONVENT GARDENER. 
 
 Manhood’s career in savage climes he ran, 
 
 On lonely California’s Indian shore — 
 
 Dispelling superstition’s deadly ban, 
 
 Or teaching (what could patriot do more ?) 
 
 Those rudiments of peace, the gardener’s humble store. 
 
 Oft have I marked him, silent and apart, 
 
 Loitering near the sunny convent-gate, 
 
 Rewarded by tranquillity of heart 
 
 For toils so worthy of the truly great ; 
 
 And in my soul admired, compared his state 
 
 With that of some rude brawler, whose crude mind 
 Some wondrous change on earth would fain create ; 
 
 Who after flatt’ring, harassing mankind, 
 
 Gains titles, riches, pomp, with shame and scorn combined. 
 
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD. 
 
 The President — Yturbide — Visit from the Archbishop—Sefior 
 Canedo — General Almonte — Seiior Cuevas — Situation of an 
 Archbishop in Mexico — Of Seiior Posada — His life — Mexi¬ 
 can charity — Wax figures — Anecdote — Valuable present — 
 Education— Comparison— Schools — Opportunities — Natural 
 talent — Annual — Compliments to the Mexican ladies by the 
 Editor — Families of the old school — Morals — Indulgence — 
 Manners — Love of country — Colleges. 
 
 5th July. 
 
 Yesterday morning, we had a visit from the Presi¬ 
 dent, with two of his officers. He was riding one 
 of the handsomest black horses I ever saw. On 
 going out we stopped to look at a wax figure of 
 Yturbide on horseback, which he considers a good 
 resemblance, and which was sent me in a present 
 some time ago. He ought to be a good judge, as he 
 was a most devoted friend of the unfortunate Agustin 
 the First, who, whatever were his faults, seems to 
 have inspired his friends with the most devoted and 
 enthusiastic attachment. In the prime of life, brave 
 and active, handsome and fond of show, he had all 
 the qualities which render a chief popular with the 
 multitude; “ but popularity, when not based upon 
 great benefits, is transient; it is founded upon a prin¬ 
 ciple of egotism, because a whole people cannot have 
 personal sympathies.” Ambition led him to desert 
 
336 
 
 YTURBIDE. 
 
 the royal cause which he had served for nine years; 
 and vanity blinded him to the dangers that surround¬ 
 ed him in the midst of his triumphs, even when pro¬ 
 claimed Emperor by the united voice of the gar¬ 
 rison and city of Mexico — when his horses were 
 taken from his carriage, and when amidst the shouts 
 of the multitude, his coach was dragged in triumph 
 to the palace. His great error, according to those 
 who talk of him impartially, was indecision in the 
 most critical emergencies, and his permitting himself 
 to be governed by circumstances, instead of directing 
 these circumstances as they occurred. 
 
 I could not help thinking, as the General stood 
 there looking at the waxen image of his friend, what 
 a stormy life he himself has passed ; how little real 
 tranquillity he can ever have enjoyed ; and wonder¬ 
 ing whether he will be permitted to finish his presi¬ 
 dential days in peace, which according to rumor is 
 doubtful. 
 
 8th. — I had the honor of a long visit this morn¬ 
 ing from his Grace the Archbishop. He came about 
 eleven o’clock, after mass, and remained till dinner 
 time, sitting out all our Sunday visiters, who are 
 generally numerous, as it is the only day of rest for 
 employes, and especially for the Cabinet. Amongst 
 our visiters were Senor Cahedo, who is extremely 
 agreeable in conversation, and as an orator famed for 
 his sarcasm and cutting wit. He has been particu¬ 
 larly kind and friendly to us, ever since our arrival 
 — General Almonte, Minister of War, a handsome 
 man and pleasant, and an officer of great bravery — 
 very unpopular with one party and especially dis- 
 
THE ARCHBISHOP. 
 
 337 
 
 liked by the English, but also a great friend of ours. 
 Sehor Cuevas, Minister of the Interior, married to a 
 daughter of the Marquesa de Vivanco, an amiable and 
 excellent man, who seems generally liked, and is also 
 most friendly to us. All these gentlemen are praised 
 or abused, according to the party of the person who 
 speaks of them ; but I, not interfering in Mexican 
 politics, find them amongst the most pleasant of our 
 acquaintances. 
 
 However, were I to choose a situation here, it 
 would undoubtedly be that of Archbishop of Mexico, 
 the most enviable in the world to those who would 
 enjoy a life of tranquillity, ease, and universal adora¬ 
 tion. He is a Pope without the trouble, or a tenth 
 part of the responsibility. He is venerated more 
 than the Holy Father is in enlightened Rome, and 
 like kings in the good old times, can do no wrong. 
 His salary amounts to about one hundred thousand 
 dollars, and a revenue might be made by the sweet¬ 
 meats alone which are sent him from all the nuns in 
 the republic. His palace in town, his well-cush¬ 
 ioned carriage, well-conditioned horses and sleek 
 mules, seem the very perfection of comfort. In fact, 
 comfort, which is unknown amongst the profane of 
 Mexico, has taken refuge with the Archbishop ; and 
 though many drops of it are shed on the shaven 
 heads of all bishops, curates, confessors and friars, 
 still in his illustrious person it concentrates, as in a 
 focus. He himself is a benevolent, good-hearted, 
 good-natured, portly and jovial personage, with the 
 most laissez-aller air and expression conceivable. He 
 looks like one on whom the good things of this world 
 29 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
338 
 
 CHARITIES. 
 
 have fallen in a constant and benignant shower, 
 which shower hath fallen on a rich and fertile soil, 
 lie is generally to be seen leaning back in his car¬ 
 riage, dressed in purple, with amethyst cross, and 
 giving his benediction to the people as he passes. 
 He seems engaged in a pleasant reverie, and his 
 countenance wears an air of the most placid and 
 insouciant content. He enjoys a good dinner, good 
 wine, and ladies’ society, but just sufficiently to 
 make his leisure hours pass pleasantly, without indi¬ 
 gestion from the first, headaches from the second, or 
 heartaches from the third. So does his life seem to 
 pass on like a deep untroubled stream, on whose 
 margin grow sweet flowers, on whose clear waters 
 the bending trees are reflected, but on whose placid 
 face no lasting impression is made. 
 
 I have no doubt that his charities are in proportion 
 to his large fortune; and when I say that I have no 
 doubt of this, it is because I firmly believe there ex¬ 
 ists no country in the world where charities, both 
 public and private, are practised on so noble a scale, 
 especially by the women, under the direction of the 
 priests. I am inclined to believe that, generally 
 speaking, charity is a distinguishing attribute of a 
 Catholic country. 
 
 The Archbishop is said to be a man of good infor¬ 
 mation, and was at one time a Senator. In 1833, 
 being comprehended in the law of banishment, caused 
 by the political disturbances which have never ceased 
 to afflict this country since the independence, he 
 passed some time in the United States, chiefly in 
 New Orleans, but this, I believe, is the only cloud 
 
WAX FIGURES. 
 
 339 
 
 that has darkened his horizon, or disturbed the tran¬ 
 quil current of his life. His consecration, with its 
 attendant fatigues, must have been to him a weari¬ 
 some overture to a pleasant drama, a hard stepping- 
 stone to glory. As to the rest, he is very unostenta¬ 
 tious ; and his conversation is far from austere. On 
 the contrary, he is one of the best-tempered and most 
 cheerful old men in society that it is possible to meet 
 with. . . . 
 
 I send you, by the Mexican Commissioners, who 
 are kind enough to take charge of a box for me, the 
 figure of a Mexican tortillera, by which you may 
 judge a little of the perfection in which the common¬ 
 est lepero here works in wax. The incredible patience 
 which enabled the ancient Mexicans to work their 
 statues in wood or stone with the rudest instruments, 
 has descended to their posterity, as well as their ex¬ 
 traordinary and truly Chinese talent for imitation. 
 With a common knife and a piece of hard wood, an 
 uneducated man will produce a fine piece of sculpture. 
 There is no imagination. They do not leave the 
 beaten track, but continue on the models which the 
 Spanish conquerors brought out with them, some of 
 which, however, were very beautiful. 
 
 In wax, especially, their figures have been brought 
 to great perfection. Everything that surrounds them, 
 they can imitate, and their wax portraits are some¬ 
 times little gems of art; but in this last branch, which 
 belongs to a higher order of art, there are no good 
 workmen at present. 
 
 Apropos to which, a poor artist brought some toler¬ 
 able wax portraits here for sale the other day, and 
 
340 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 amongst others, that of a celebrated general. C-n 
 
 remarked that it was fairer than the original, as far 
 as he recollected. “ Ah ! ” said the man, “ but when 
 his Excellency washes his face, nothing can be more 
 exact.” A valuable present was sent lately, by a 
 
 gentleman here, to the Count de- in Spain ; 
 
 twelve cases, each case containing twelve wax figures ; 
 each figure representing some Mexican trade, or pro¬ 
 fession or employment. There were men drawing 
 the pulque from the maguey, Indian women selling 
 vegetables, tortilleras, venders of ducks, fruitmen, 
 lard-sellers, the postman of Guachinango, loaded 
 with parrots, monkeys, &c., — more of everything than 
 of letters — the Poblana peasant, the rancherita on 
 horseback before her farm-servant, the gaily-dressed 
 ranchero, in short, a little history of Mexico in 
 wax. . . . 
 
 You ask me, how Mexican women are educated. 
 In answering you, I must put aside a few brilliant 
 exceptions, and speak en masse, the most difficult 
 thing in the world, for these exceptions are always 
 rising up before me like accusing angels, and I begin 
 to think of individuals, when I should keep to gen¬ 
 eralities. Generally speaking, then, the Mexican 
 Senoras and Senoritas write, read and play a little, 
 sew, and take care of their houses and children. 
 When I say they read, I mean they know how to 
 read ; when I say they write, I do not mean that they 
 can always spell; and when I say they play, I do not 
 assert that they have generally a knowledge of music. 
 If we compare their education with that of girls in 
 England, or in the United States, it is not a compar- 
 
EDUCATION. 
 
 341 
 
 ison, but a contrast. Compare it with that of Span¬ 
 ish women, and we shall be less severe upon their 
 farniente descendants. In the first place, the climate 
 inclines every one to indolence, both physically and 
 morally. One cannot pore over a book when the blue 
 sky is constantly smiling in at the open windows ; 
 then out of doors after ten o’clock, the sun gives us 
 due warning of our tropical latitude, and even though 
 the breeze is so fresh and pleasant, one has no incli¬ 
 nation to walk or ride far. Whatever be the cause, I 
 am convinced that it is impossible to take the same 
 exercise with the mind or with the body in this coun¬ 
 try, as in Europe or in the Northern states. Then 
 as to schools, there are none that can deserve the 
 name, and no governesses. Young girls can have no 
 emulation, for they never meet. They have no pub¬ 
 lic diversion, and no private amusement. There are 
 a few good foreign masters, most of whom have come 
 to Mexico for the purpose of making their fortune, 
 by teaching, or marriage, or both, and whose object, 
 naturally, is to make the most money in the shortest 
 possible time, that they may return home and enjoy 
 it. The children generally appear to have an extra¬ 
 ordinary disposition for music and drawing, yet there 
 are few girls who are proficients in either. 
 
 When very young, they occasionally attend the 
 schools, where boys and girls learn to read in com¬ 
 mon, or any other accomplishment that the old 
 women can teach them; but at twelve they are 
 already considered too old to attend these promiscu¬ 
 ous assemblages, and masters are got in for drawing 
 and music, to finish their education. I asked a lady 
 29* 
 
342 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 the other day if her daughter went to school. “ Good 
 heavens ! ” said she, quite shocked, “ she is past 
 eleven years old ! ” It frequently happens that the 
 least well-informed girls are the children of the 
 cleverest men, who, keeping to the customs of their 
 forefathers, are content if they confess regularly, at¬ 
 tend church constantly, and can embroider and sing 
 a little. Where there are more extended ideas, it is 
 chiefly amongst families who have travelled in 
 Europe, and have seen the different education of 
 women in foreign countries. Of these, the fathers 
 occasionally devote a short portion of their time to 
 the instruction of their daughters, perhaps during 
 their leisure evening moments, but it may easily be 
 supposed that this desultory system has little real in¬ 
 fluence on the minds of the children. I do not 
 think there are above half a dozen married women, 
 or as many girls above fourteen, who, with the ex¬ 
 ception of the mass-book, read any one book through 
 in the whole course of the year. They thus greatly 
 simplify the system of education in the United 
 States, where parties are frequently divided between 
 the advocates for solid learning and those for super¬ 
 ficial accomplishments ; and according to whom it is 
 difficult to amalgamate the solid beef of science 
 with the sweet sauce of les beaux arts. 
 
 But if a Mexican girl is ignorant she rarely shows 
 it. They have generally the greatest possible tact; 
 never by any chance wandering out of their depth, 
 or betraying by word or sign that they are not well 
 informed on the subject under discussion. Though 
 seldom graceful, they are never awkward, and always 
 
MEXICAN ANNUAL. 
 
 348 
 
 self-possessed. They have plenty of natural talent, 
 and where it has been thoroughly cultivated, no 
 women can surpass them. Of what is called literary 
 society, there is of course none — 
 
 “ No bustling Botlierbys have they to shew ’em 
 That charming passage in the last new poem.” 
 
 There is a little annual lying beside me, called 
 “Caleudario de las Sehoritas Mejicanas,” of which 
 the preface, by Galvan, the editor, is very amusing. 
 
 “ To none,” he says, “ better than to Mexican la¬ 
 dies, can I dedicate this mark of attention — ( obse- 
 quio .) Their graceful attractions well deserve any 
 trouble that may have been taken to please them. 
 Their bodies are graceful as the palms of the desert; 
 their hair, black as ebony, or golden as the rays of 
 the sun, gracefully waves over their delicate shoul¬ 
 ders ; their glances are like the peaceful light of the 
 moon. The Mexican ladies are not so white as the 
 Europeans, but their whiteness is more agreeable to 
 our eyes. Their words are soft, leading our hearts 
 by gentleness, in the same manner as in their mo¬ 
 ments of just indignation they appal and confound 
 us. Who can resist the magic of their song, always 
 sweet, always gentle, and always natural ? Let us 
 leave to foreign ladies (las ultramarinas ) these affect¬ 
 ed and scientific manners of singing; here nature 
 surpasses art, as happens in everything, notwithstand¬ 
 ing the cavilings of the learned. 
 
 “ And what shall I say of their souls ? I shall say 
 that in Europe the minds are more cultivated, but in 
 Mexico the hearts are more amiable. Here they are 
 
344 
 
 FAMILIES OF THE OLD SCHOOL. 
 
 not only sentimental, but tender; not only soft, but 
 virtuous ; the body of a child is not more sensitive, 
 (no es mas sensible el cuerpo de un nino ) nor a 
 rose-bud softer. I have seen souls as beautiful as the 
 borders of the rainbow, and purer than the drops of 
 dew. Their passions are seldom tempestuous, and 
 even then they are kindled and extinguished easily; 
 but generally they emit a peaceful light, like the 
 morning star, Venus. Modesty is painted in their 
 eyes, and modesty is the greatest and most irresisti¬ 
 ble fascination of their souls. In short, the Mexican 
 ladies, by their manifold virtues, are destined to 
 serve as our support whilst we travel through the sad 
 desert of life. 
 
 “ Well do these attractions merit that we should try 
 to please them ; and in effect a new form, new lus¬ 
 tre, and new graces have been given to the ‘ Alma¬ 
 nac of the Mexican Ladies,’ whom the editor 
 submissively entreats to receive with benevolence 
 this small tribute due to their enchantments and their 
 virtues ! ” 
 
 There are in Mexico a few families of the old 
 school, people of high rank, but who mingle very 
 little in society; who are little known to the general¬ 
 ity of foreigners, and who keep their daughters en¬ 
 tirely at home, that they may not be contaminated by 
 bad example. These select few, rich without any 
 ostentation, are certainly doing everything that is in 
 their power to remedy the evils occasioned by the 
 want of proper schools, or of competent instruc¬ 
 tresses for their daughters. Being nearly all allied 
 by birth, or connected by marriage, they form a sort 
 
MORALS. 
 
 345 
 
 of clan; and it is sufficient to belong to one or other 
 of these families, to be hospitably received by all. 
 They meet together frequently, without ceremony, 
 and whatever elements of good exist in Mexico, are 
 to be found amongst them. The fathers are gen¬ 
 erally men of talent and learning, and the mothers, 
 women of the highest respectability, to whose name 
 no suspicion can be attached. 
 
 But indeed, it is long before a stranger even sus¬ 
 pects the state of morals in this country, for what¬ 
 ever be the private conduct of individuals, the most 
 perfect decorum prevails in outward behavior. But 
 indolence is the mother of vice, and not only to little 
 children might Doctor Watts have asserted that, 
 
 “ Satan finds some miscliief still, 
 
 For idle hands to do.” 
 
 They are besides extremely leal to each other, and 
 with proper esprit de corps , rarely gossip to strangers 
 concerning the errors of their neighbors’ ways ; — in¬ 
 deed, if such a thing is hinted at, deny all knowledge 
 of the fact. So long as outward decency is preserved, 
 habit has rendered them tolerably indifferent as to the 
 liaisons subsisting amongst their particular friends ; 
 and as long as a woman attends church regularly, is 
 a patroness of charitable institutions, and gives no 
 scandal by her outward behavior, she may do pretty 
 much as she pleases. As for flirtations in public, 
 they are unknown. 
 
 I must, however, confess that this indulgence on 
 the part of women of unimpeachable reputation is 
 sometimes carried too far. We went lately to a 
 
346 
 
 MANNERS. 
 
 breakfast, at which was a young and beautiful 
 Countess, lately married, and of very low birth. She 
 
 looked very splendid, with all the - diamonds, 
 
 and a dress of rose-colored satin. After breakfast, 
 we adjourned to another room, where I admired 
 the beauty of a little child who was playing about on 
 the door, when this lady said, “Yes, she is very 
 pretty — very like my little girl, who is just the same 
 age.” I was rather surprised, but concluded she 
 had been a widow, and made the inquiry of an old 
 French lady who was sitting near me. “Oh no ! ” 
 said she — “ she was never married before ; she al¬ 
 ludes to the children she had before the Count be¬ 
 came acquainted with her ! ” And yet, the Senora 
 
 de-, the strictest woman in Mexico, was loading 
 
 her with attentions and caresses. I must say, how¬ 
 ever, that this was a singular instance. . . . 
 
 There are no women more affectionate in their 
 manners than those of Mexico. In fact, a foreigner, 
 especially if he be an Englishman and a shy man, 
 and accustomed to the coldness of his fair country¬ 
 women, need only live a few years here, and under¬ 
 stand the language, and become accustomed to the 
 peculiar style of beauty, to find the Mexican Senor- 
 itas perfectly irresistible. 
 
 And that this is so, may be judged of by the many 
 instances of Englishmen married to the women of this 
 country, who invariably make them excellent wives. 
 But when an Englishman marries here, he ought 
 to settle here, for it is very rare that a Mexicaine 
 can live out of her own country. They miss the 
 climate — they miss that warmth of manner, that 
 
COLLEGES. 
 
 347 
 
 universal cordiality by which they are surrounded 
 here. They miss the laissez-ctller and absence of all 
 etiquette in habits, toilette, &c. They find them¬ 
 selves surrounded by women so differently educated, 
 as to be doubly strangers to them, strangers in feel¬ 
 ing as well as in country. A very few instances 
 there are, of girls married very young, taken to Eu¬ 
 rope, and introduced into good society, who have ac¬ 
 quired European ways of thinking, and even prefer 
 other countries to their own ; but this is so rare, as 
 scarcely to form an exception. They are true pa¬ 
 triots, and the visible horizon bounds their wishes. 
 In England especially, they are completely out of 
 their element. A language nearly impossible for 
 them to acquire, a religion which they consider here¬ 
 tical, outward coldness covering inward warmth, a 
 perpetual war between sun and fog, etiquette carried 
 to excess, an insupportable stiffness and order in the 
 article of the toilette ; rebosos unknown, cigaritos 
 considered barbarous. . . . They feel like exiles 
 from paradise, and live but in hopes of a speedy 
 return. 
 
 As to the colleges for young men, although various 
 projects of reform have been made by enlightened 
 men in regard to them, especially by Don Lucas 
 Alaman, and afterwards by Senor Gutirez Estrada, 
 and though to a certain extent, many of these plans 
 were carried into effect, it is a universal source of 
 complaint among the most distinguished persons in 
 Mexico, that in order to give their sons a thorough 
 education, it is necessary to send them abroad. 
 
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH. 
 
 Revolution in Mexico — Gomez Farias and General Urrea — 
 The Federalists — The President imprisoned — Firing — Can¬ 
 non— First news — Escape — Proclamation of the Govern¬ 
 ment— Cannonading — Count C-a —Houses deserted — 
 
 Countess del V-e — Proclamation of the Federalists — Cir¬ 
 
 cular of the Federalists — Scarcity of provisions — Bursting of 
 a shell — Refugees—Dr. Plan—Young Lady shot — Gomez 
 Farias — Rumors — Address of Gomez Farias — Balls and 
 
 Bullets — Visit from the-Minister — Arrival of Monsieur 
 
 de- —Expected attack—Skirmish — Appearance of the 
 
 street—San Cosme—General- —The Count de B- 
 
 — More rumors — Suspense — Cannonading — Government 
 bulletin — Plan of the rebels defeated — Proclamation of the 
 President — Of General Valencia — Maternal affection — 
 Fresh reports — Families leaving the city—Letter from Santa 
 Anna — Bustamante’s letter when imprisoned — Propositions 
 
 — Refusal — Tacubaya — Archbishop — Fresh proposals — 
 Refusal — Second letter from Santa Anna — Government 
 bulletin — Proclamations — An awkward mistake — The Arch¬ 
 bishop visits the President — Conclusion of the Revolution — 
 Government newspaper — Circulars. 
 
 July 15th. 
 
 Revolution in Mexico ! or Pronunciamiento as they 
 call it. The storm which has for some time been 
 brewing, has burst forth at last. Don Valentin Go¬ 
 mez Farias and the banished General Urrea have 
 pronounced for federalism. At two this morning, 
 joined by the fifth battalion and the regiment of 
 comercio, they took up arms, set off' for the palace, 
 
REVOLUTION. 
 
 349 
 
 surprised the President in his bed, and took him 
 prisoner. Our first information was a message, ar¬ 
 riving on the part of the government, desiring the at¬ 
 tendance of our two old soldiers, who put on their 
 old uniforms, and set off quite pleased. Next came 
 
 our friend Don M-del C-o, who advised us 
 
 to haul out the Spanish colors, that they might be in 
 readiness to fly on the balcony, in case of necessity. 
 Little by little, more Spaniards arrived with different 
 reports as to the state of things. Some say that it 
 will all end in a few hours — others that it will be a 
 long and bloody contest. Some are assured that it 
 will merely terminate in a change of ministry — 
 others, that Santa Anna will come on directly and 
 usurp the Presidency. At all events, General Va¬ 
 lencia, at the head of the government troops,. is 
 about to attack the pronunciados, who are in pos¬ 
 session of the palace. 
 
 The firing has begun ! People come running up 
 the street. The Indians are hurrying back to their 
 villages in double-quick trot. As we are not in the 
 centre of the city, our position for the present is very 
 safe, all the cannon being directed towards the 
 palace. All the streets near the square are planted 
 with cannon, and it is pretended that the revolu¬ 
 tionary party are giving arms to the leperos. The 
 cannon are roaring now. All along the street, peo¬ 
 ple are standing on the balconies, looking anxiously 
 in the direction of the palace, or collected in groups 
 before the doors, and the azoteas which are out of 
 the line of fire, are covered with men. They are ring¬ 
 ing the tocsin — things seem to be getting serious. 
 
 vol. i. 30 
 
350 
 
 FIRING, ETC. 
 
 9 o'clock, P. M. — Continuation of firing without 
 interruption. I have spent the day standing on the 
 balcony, looking at the smoke, and listening to the 
 different rumors. Gomez Farias has been pro¬ 
 claimed President by his party. The streets near the 
 Square are said to be strewed with dead and wound¬ 
 ed. There was a terrible thunder storm this after¬ 
 noon. Mingled with the roaring of the cannon, it 
 sounded like a strife between heavenly and earthly 
 artillery. We shall not pass a very easy night, es¬ 
 pecially without our soldiers. Unfortunately, there 
 is a bright moon, so night brings no interruption to 
 the firing and slaughter. 
 
 \6th. — Our first news was brought very early 
 this morning by the wife of one of our soldiers, who 
 came in great despair, to tell us that both her hus¬ 
 band and his comrade are shot, though not killed — 
 that they were amongst the first who fell; and she 
 
 came to entreat C-n to prevent their being sent 
 
 to the hospital. It is reported that Bustamante has 
 escaped, and that he fought his way sword-in-hand 
 through the soldiers who guarded him in his apart¬ 
 ment. Almonte at all events is at the head of his 
 troops. The balls have entered many houses in the 
 Square. It must be terribly dangerous for those who 
 live there, and amongst others, for our friend Senor 
 Tagle, Director of the Monte Pio, and his family. 
 
 They have just brought the Government Bulletin, 
 which gives the following statement of the circum¬ 
 stances : “ Yesterday, at midnight, Urrea, with a 
 handful of troops belonging to the garrison and its 
 neighborhood, took possession of the National Palace, 
 
GOVERNMENT BULLETIN. 
 
 351 
 
 surprising the guard, and committing the incivility 
 of imprisoning His Excellency the President, Don 
 Anastasio Bustamante, the Commander-in-chief, the 
 Mayor de la Plaza, and other chiefs. Don Gabriel 
 Valencia, chief of the plana mayor (the staff), General 
 Don Antonio Mozo, and the Minister of War, Don 
 Juan Nepomuceno Almonte, re-united in the citadel, 
 prepared to attack the pronunciados, who, arming the 
 lowest populace, took possession of the towers of the 
 Cathedral, and of some of the highest edifices in the 
 centre of the city. Although summoned to surren¬ 
 der, at two in the afternoon firing began, and con¬ 
 tinued till midnight, recommencing at five in the 
 morning, and only ceasing at intervals. The Colonel 
 of the sixth regiment, together with a considerable part 
 of his corps, who were in the barracks of the Palace, 
 escaped and joined the government troops, who have 
 taken the greatest part of the positions near the 
 Square and the Palace. His Excellency, the Presi¬ 
 dent, with a part of the troops which had pronounced 
 in the Palace, made his escape on the morning of the 
 sixteenth, putting himself at the head of the troops 
 who have remained faithful to their colors, and at 
 night published the following proclamation.” 
 
 “ The President of the Republic to the Mexican Nation. 
 
 “ Fellow-Citizens : — The seduction which has 
 spread over a very small part of the people and garri¬ 
 son of this capital; the forgetfulness of honor and duty, 
 have caused the defection of a few soldiers, whose 
 misconduct up to this hour has been thrown into 
 
352 
 
 THE PRESIDENT TO THE NATION. 
 
 confusion by the valiant behavior of the greatest part 
 of the chiefs, officers and soldiers, who have intrep¬ 
 idly followed the example of the valiant general-in¬ 
 chief of the plana mayor of the army. The govern¬ 
 ment was not ignorant of the machinations that were 
 carrying on ; their authors were well known to it, and 
 it foresaw that the gentleness and clemency which it 
 had hitherto employed, in order to disarm them, would 
 be corresponded to with ingratitude. 
 
 “This line of policy has caused the nation to remain 
 headless (acefala), for some hours, and public tran¬ 
 quillity to be disturbed ; but my liberty being restored, 
 the dissidents, convinced of the evils which have been 
 and may be caused by these tumults, depend upon a 
 reconciliation for their security. The government 
 will remember that they are misled men, belonging to 
 the great Mexican family, but not for this will it for¬ 
 get how much they have forfeited their rights to re¬ 
 spect ; nor what is due to the great bulk of the nation. 
 Public tranquillity will be restored in a few hours ; 
 the laws will immediately recover their energy, and 
 the government will see them obeyed. 
 
 “ Anastasio Bustamante. 
 
 “Mexico, July 16tli, 1840.” 
 
 A roar of cannon from the Palace, which made the 
 house shake and the windows rattle, and caused me 
 to throw a blot over the President’s good name, seems 
 the answer to this proclamation. 
 
 17^/t.— The state of things is very bad. Cannon 
 planted all along the streets, and soldiers firing indis¬ 
 criminately on all who pass. Count C-a slightly 
 
COUNTER-PROCLAMATION. 
 
 353 
 
 wounded, and carried to his country-house at Tacu- 
 baya. Two Spaniards have escaped from their house, 
 into which the balls were pouring, and have taken 
 
 refuge here. The E-family have left their house, 
 
 which is in the very centre of the affray, cannons 
 planted before their door, and all their windows al¬ 
 ready smashed. Indeed, nearly all the houses in that 
 quarter are abandoned. We are living here like 
 
 prisoners in a fortress. The Countess del Y-e, 
 
 whose father was shot in a former revolution, had 
 just risen this morning, when a cannon-ball entered 
 the wall close by the side of her bed, and burst in 
 the mattress. 
 
 As there are two sides to every story, listen to the 
 proclamation of the chief of the rebels. 
 
 “ Senor Valentin Gomez Farias to the Mexican 
 People. 
 
 “Fellow-citizens — We present to the civilized 
 world two facts, which, while they will cover with 
 eternal glory the Federal army and the heroic inhab¬ 
 itants of this capital, will hand down with execration 
 and infamy, to all future generations, the name of 
 General Bustamante ; this man without faith, break¬ 
 ing his solemnly-pledged word, after being put at 
 liberty by an excess of generosity ; for having prom¬ 
 ised to take immediate steps to bring about a nego¬ 
 tiation of peace, upon the honorable basis which was 
 proposed to him, he is now converted into the chief 
 of an army, the enemy of the Federalists; and has 
 beheld, with a serene countenance, this beautiful 
 30 * 
 
354 
 
 COUNTER-PROCLAMATION. 
 
 capital destroyed, a multitude of families drowned in 
 tears, and the death of many citizens ; not only of 
 the combatants, but of those who have taken no part 
 in the struggle. Amongst these must be counted an 
 unfortunate woman enceinte, who was killed as she 
 was passing the palace gates under the belief that a 
 parley having come from his camp, the firing would 
 be suspended, as in fact it was on our side. This 
 government, informed of the misfortune, sent for the 
 husband of the deceased, and ordered twenty-five 
 dollars to be given him; but the unfortunate man, 
 though plunged in grief, declared that twelve were 
 sufficient to supply his wants. Such was the horror 
 inspired by the atrocious conduct of the ex-govern¬ 
 ment of Bustamante, that this sentiment covered up 
 and suffocated all the others. 
 
 “ Another fact, of which we shall with difficulty 
 find an example in history, is the following. The 
 day that the firing began, being in want of some im¬ 
 plements of war, it was necessary to cause an iron 
 case to be opened, belonging to Don Stanislaus 
 Flores, in which he had a considerable sum of money 
 in different coin, besides his most valuable effects. 
 Thus, all that the government could do, was to make 
 this known to the owner, Senor Flores, in order that 
 he might send a person of confidence to take charge 
 of his interests, making known what was wanting, 
 that he might be immediately paid. The pertinacity 
 of the firing prevented Senor Flores from naming a 
 commissioner for four days, and then, although the 
 case has been open, and no one has taken charge of 
 it, the commissioner has made known officially that 
 
CIRCULAR. 
 
 355 
 
 nothing is taken from it but the implements of war 
 which were sent for. Glory in yourselves, Mexicans ! 
 The most polished nation of the earth, illustrious 
 France, has not presented a similar fact. The Mex¬ 
 icans possess heroic virtues, which will raise them 
 above all the nations in the world. This is the only 
 ambition of your fellow-citizen, 
 
 “Valentin Gomez Farias. 
 
 “ God, Liberty, and Federalism. 
 
 “ Mexico July 17th, 1840.” 
 
 Besides this, a circular has been sent to all the 
 governors and commandants of the different depart¬ 
 ments, from the “ Palace of the Federal Provisional 
 Government,” to this effect: 
 
 “ The Citizen Jose Urrea, with the greater part of 
 the garrison of the capital, and the whole population, 
 pronounced early on the morning of this day, for the 
 reestablishment of the Federal system, adopting in 
 the interim the Constitution of 1824, whilst it is re¬ 
 formed by a Congress which they are about to con¬ 
 voke to that effect; and I, having been called, in 
 order that at this juncture I should put myself at the 
 head of the government, communicate it to your Ex¬ 
 cellency, informing you at the same time, that the 
 object of the Citizen Urrea, instead of reestablishing 
 the Federal system, has been to reunite all the Mex¬ 
 icans, by proclaiming toleration of all opinions, and 
 respect for the lives, properties, and interests of all. 
 
 “ God, Liberty, and Federalism. 
 
 “ Valentin Gomez Farias. 
 
 “ National Palace of Mexico, 15th July, 1840.” 
 
356 
 
 CANNONADING. 
 
 18^. — There is a great scarcity of provisions in 
 the centre of the city, as the Indians, who bring in 
 everything from the country, are stopped. We have 
 laid in a good stock of comestibles, though it is very 
 unlikely that any difficulties will occur in our direc¬ 
 tion. While I am writing, the cannon are roaring 
 almost without interruption, and the sound is any¬ 
 thing but agreeable, though proving the respect en¬ 
 tertained by Farias for “ the lives, properties and 
 interests of all.” We see the smoke, but are entirely 
 out of the reach of the fire. 
 
 I had just written these words, when the Senora 
 
 -, who lives opposite, called out to me that a 
 
 shell has just fallen in her garden, and that her hus¬ 
 band had but time to save himself. The cannon 
 directed against the palace kill people in their beds, 
 in streets entirely out of that direction, while this 
 ball intended for the citadel, takes its flight to San 
 Cosme ! Both parties seem to be fighting the city in¬ 
 stead of each other; and this manner of firing from 
 behind parapets, and from the tops of houses and 
 steeples, is decidedly safer for the soldiers than for 
 the inhabitants. It seems also a novel plan to keep 
 up a continual cannonading by night, and to rest 
 during a great part of the day. One would think 
 that were the guns brought nearer the palace, the 
 affair would be sooner over. 
 
 Late last night, a whole family came here for pro¬ 
 tection ; the Senora - with -, nurse and 
 
 baby, &c. She had remained very quietly in her 
 own house, in spite of broken windows, till the bul¬ 
 lets whizzed past her baby’s bed. This morning, 
 
ACCIDENTS. 
 
 357 
 
 everything remains as it was the first day — the 
 President in the citadel, the rebels in the palace. 
 The government are trying to hold out until troops 
 arrive from Puebla. In an interval of firing, the 
 
 -Secretary contrived to make his way here this 
 
 morning. The English Minister’s house is also 
 filled with families, it being a little out of the line of 
 fire. Those who live in the Square, and in the Calle 
 San Francisco are most exposed, and the poor shop¬ 
 keepers in the Parian, are in a state of great and 
 natural trepidation. I need not say that the shops 
 are all shut. 
 
 19 th. — Dr. Plan, a famous French physician, was 
 shot this morning, as he was coming out of the 
 palace, and his body has just been carried past our 
 door into the house opposite. 
 
 The Senorita - having imprudently stepped 
 
 out on her balcony, her house being in a very ex¬ 
 posed street, a pistol ball entered her side, and passed 
 through her body. She is still alive, but it seems 
 impossible that she can recover. The Prior of San 
 Joaquin, riding by just now, stopt below the win¬ 
 dows to tell us that he fears we shall not remain 
 long here in safety, as the pronunciados have at¬ 
 tacked the Convent of La Concepcion, at the end of 
 the street. 
 
 My writing must be very desultory. Impossible 
 to fix one’s attention on anything. We pass our 
 time on the balconies, listening to the thunder of the 
 cannon, looking at the different parties of troops 
 riding by, receiving visiters, who in the intervals of 
 the firing, venture out to bring us the last reports — 
 
358 
 
 GOMEZ FARIAS. 
 
 wondering, speculating, fearing, hoping, and exces¬ 
 sively tired of the whole affair. 
 
 Gomez Farias, the prime mover of this revolution, 
 is a distinguished character, one of the notabilities of 
 the country, and has always maintained the same 
 principles, standing up for “ rapid and radical re¬ 
 form.” He is a native of Guadalajara, and his 
 literary career is said to have been brilliant. He is 
 also said to be a man of an ardent imagination and 
 great energy. His name has appeared in every pub¬ 
 lic event. He first aided in the cause of Inde¬ 
 pendence, then, when deputy for Zacatecas, shewed 
 much zeal in favor of Yturbide — was afterwards a 
 warm partisan of the federal cause — contributed to 
 the election of General Victoria ; afterwards to that 
 of Pedraza — took an active part in the political 
 changes of ’33 and ’34, detests the Spaniards, and 
 during his Presidency endeavored to abolish the 
 privileges of the clergy and troops — suppressed 
 monastic institutions—granted absolute liberty of 
 opinion—abolished the laws against the liberty of 
 the press — created many literary institutions ; and 
 whatever were his political errors, and the ruthless¬ 
 ness with which in the name of liberty and reform 
 he marched to the attainment of his object, without 
 respect for the most sacred things, he is generally 
 allowed to be a man of integrity, and even by his 
 enemies, an enthusiast, who deceives himself as much 
 as others. Now in the hopes of obtaining some un¬ 
 certain and visionary good, and even while declaring 
 his horror of civil war and bloodshed, he has risen in 
 rebellion against the actual government, and is the 
 
REPORTS, ETC. 
 
 359 
 
 cause of the cruel war now raging, not in the 
 open fields or even in the scattered suburbs, but in 
 the very heart of a populous city. 
 
 This morning all manner of opinions are afloat. 
 Some believe that Santa Anna has started from his 
 retreat at Manga de Clavo, and will arrive to-day; 
 will himself swallow the disputed oyster, (the presi¬ 
 dential chair) and give each of the combatants a 
 shell a-piece. Some that a fresh supply of troops 
 for the government will arrive to-day, and others that 
 the rebels must eventually triumph. Among the 
 reports which I trust may be classed as doubt¬ 
 ful, is that General Urrea has issued a proclama¬ 
 tion, promising three hours pillage to all who join 
 him. Then will be the time for testing the virtues 
 of all diplomatic drapeaux. In the midst of all, here 
 comes another 
 
 “ Address of His Excellency, Senor Don Valentin , 
 Gomez Farias, charged provisionally with the gov¬ 
 ernment of Mexico, and of the General-in-Chief 
 of the Federal army to the troops under his com¬ 
 mand. 
 
 “ Companions in arms : No one has ever resisted a 
 people who fight for their liberty and who defend 
 their sacred rights. Your heroic endeavors have 
 already reduced our unjust aggressors almost to com¬ 
 plete nullity. Without infantry to cover their para¬ 
 pets, without artillery to fire their pieces, without 
 money, without credit, and without support, they 
 already make their last useless efforts. On our side, 
 
360 
 
 ADDRESS OF FARIAS. 
 
 on the contrary, all is in abundance, ( sobra ) men, 
 arms, ammunition, and money, and above all, the in¬ 
 vincible support of opinion ; — while the parties which 
 adhere to our pronunciamento in all the cities out of 
 the capital, and the assistance which within this very 
 city is given by every class of society to those who 
 are fighting for the rights of the people, offer guaran¬ 
 tees which they will strictly fulfil to all the inhabi¬ 
 tants of the country, natives as well as foreigners. 
 Our enemies, in the delirium of their impotence, 
 have had recourse to their favorite weapon, calumny. 
 In a communication directed to us, they have had 
 the audacity to accuse you of having attacked some 
 property. Miserable wretches! No — the soldiers 
 of the people are not robbers; the cause of liberty 
 is very noble, and its defence will not be stained by 
 a degrading action. This is the answ r er given to 
 your calumniators by your chiefs, who are as much 
 interested in your reputation as in their own. Sol¬ 
 diers of the people ! let valor, as well as all other 
 civic virtues, shine in your conduct, that you may 
 never dim the renown of valiant soldiers and of good 
 citizens. “Valentin Gomez Farias. 
 
 “Jose Urrea.” 
 
 We hear that two shells have fallen into the house 
 
 of Sehor-, who has a pretty wife and a number 
 
 of children, and that his azotea is occupied by the 
 federalist troops. Fortunately, these grenades burst 
 in the patio of his house, and no one was injured. 
 The chief danger for those who are not actually en¬ 
 gaged in this affair, is from these bullets and shells, 
 
CHURCHES CLOSED. 
 
 361 
 
 which come rattling into all the houses. We have 
 messages from various people whom we invited to 
 come here for safety, that they would gladly accept 
 our offer, but are unwilling to leave their houses ex¬ 
 posed to pillage, and do not dare to pass through the 
 streets. So our numbers have not increased as yet. 
 
 You may suppose, that although this is Sunday, 
 there is no mass in the churches. The Prior of San 
 Fernando, who has just sent us round some colossal 
 cauliflowers and other fine vegetables from his gar¬ 
 den, permits us to come to his convent for safety, 
 
 should anything occur here.I am afraid 
 
 he would lodge the womankind in some outhouse. 
 
 I had written thus far, when we received a visit 
 
 from the Baron de-,-Minister, who, living 
 
 in a very exposed situation, near the palace, requests us 
 
 to receive his Secretary of Legation, M. de-, 
 
 who is dangerously ill of typhus fever, as the doc¬ 
 tors, no doubt warned by the fate of poor Dr. Plan, 
 fear to pass into that street which is blocked up with 
 troops and cannon. Some people fear a universal 
 sacking of the city, especially in the event of the 
 triumph of the federalist party. The ministers seem 
 to have great confidence in their flags — but I can¬ 
 not help thinking that a party of armed leperos 
 would be no respectors of persons or privileges ! As 
 yet our position continues very safe. We have the 
 Alameda between us and the troops; the palace, the 
 square, and the principal streets being on the other 
 side of the Alameda ; and this street, a branch of the 
 great Calle de Tacuba stretching out beyond it. I 
 write more to occupy my thoughts than in hopes of 
 
 31 
 
 YOL. I. 
 
362 
 
 FAMILIES LEAVING THE CITY. 
 
 interesting you ; for I am afraid you will almost be 
 tired of this revolutionary letter. As a clever Mexi¬ 
 can, the Marquis of-, says—“some years ago 
 
 we gave forth cries, {gritos) — that was in the in¬ 
 fancy of our independence — now we begin to pro¬ 
 nounce (pronunciarnos.) Heaven knows when we 
 shall be old enough to speak plain, so that people 
 may know what we mean ! ” 
 
 Sunday Evening. — Monsieur de-has arrived, 
 
 and is not worse. We have unexpectedly had twelve 
 persons to dinner to-day. The news to-night is, that 
 the government troops have arrived, and that a great 
 attack will be made by them to-morrow on the rebels 
 in the palace, which will probably bring matters to a 
 conclusion. Some of our guests are sitting up, and 
 others lying down on sofas without undressing. I 
 prefer being comfortable, so good-night. 
 
 20th. — We were astonished this morning at the 
 general tranquillity, and concluded that, instead of 
 having attacked the rebels, the government was hold¬ 
 ing a parley with them, but a note from the English 
 Minister informs us that a skirmish has taken place 
 between the two parties at one of the gates of the 
 city, in which the government party lias triumphed. 
 So far the news is good. 
 
 Our street has a most picturesque and lively ap¬ 
 pearance this morning. It is crowded with Indians 
 from the country, bringing in their fruit and vegeta¬ 
 bles for sale, and establishing a temporary market in 
 front of the church of San Fernando. Innumerable 
 carriages, drawn by mules, are passing along, packed 
 inside and out, full of families hurrying to the coun- 
 
GENERAL 
 
 363 
 
 try with their children and movables. Those who 
 are poorer, are making their way out on foot — men 
 and women carrying mattresses, and little children 
 following with baskets and bird-cages — carts are 
 passing, loaded with chairs and tables and beds and 
 all manner of old furniture, uprooted for the first 
 time no doubt since many years — all are taking ad¬ 
 vantage of this temporary cessation of firing to make 
 their escape. Our stables are full of mules and 
 horses sent us by our friends in the centre of the 
 city, where all supplies of water are cut off. Another 
 physician, a Spaniard, has just been shot! 
 
 Every room at San Cosme and in all the suburbs, 
 is taken. In some rooms are numbers of people, 
 obliged to sleep upon mats, too glad to have escaped 
 from the danger, to care for any inconvenience. A 
 quantity of plate and money and diamonds were sent 
 here this morning, which we have been hiding in 
 different parts of the house ; but they say that in 
 cases of pillage, the plunderers always search the 
 most impossible places, pulling up the boards, brick 
 floors, &c., ripping up the mattresses and so on, so I 
 believe there is no use in concealing anything. Near 
 us lives a celebrated General, on whose political 
 opinions there seems much doubt, as he has joined 
 neither party, and has become invisible ever since 
 this affair commenced. He is a showy, handsome 
 man, with a good deal of superficial instruction, and 
 exceedingly vain of his personal advantages. I am 
 quite sure that, having allowed him to be a fine-look¬ 
 ing man, he would forgive me for saying that his 
 character is frivolous, and that his principles, both 
 
364 
 
 COUNT DE B 
 
 moral and political, are governed entirely by that 
 which best suits his own advantage. . . . 
 
 The Count de B-, Secretary to the French 
 
 Legation, mounted his horse last evening, and like a 
 true young Frenchman, set off to pay a visit to a 
 pretty girl of his acquaintance ; passing through the 
 most dangerous streets, and particularly conspicuous 
 by his singular dress, good looks, and moustaches. 
 He had not gone far, before he was surrounded by 
 some dozen of leperos with knives, who would no 
 doubt have robbed and dispatched him, but that, in 
 tearing off his sarajpe, they discovered his uniform, 
 and not being very skilled in military accoutrements, 
 concluded him to be an officer on the part of the 
 government. They being on the federalist side, 
 hurried with their prize to the palace, where he was 
 thrown into prison, and obliged to remain until some 
 of the officers came to see the prisoner, and recog¬ 
 nised him, much to their astonishment. 
 
 We are now going to dine with what appetite we 
 may, which is generally pretty good. 
 
 Ten o'clock , p. m. — We ventured out after dinner 
 to take a turn in the direction opposite the city, and 
 met various parties of ladies who, as they cannot use 
 their carriages at present, were thankful to escape 
 from their temporary and crowded dwellings, and were 
 actually taking exercise on foot; when we were en¬ 
 countered by people full of the intelligence, that the 
 great attack on the palace is to be made this evening, 
 and were advised to hurry home. We were also 
 assured that a party of leperos, headed by their long- 
 bearded captain, an old robber of the name of Castro, 
 
CANNONADING. 
 
 365 
 
 had passed the night before our door. Before we 
 could reach home, the firing began, and we have 
 passed several hours in a state of great suspense; 
 amidst the roaring of the cannon, the shouting of 
 the troops, the occasional cries of those who are 
 wounded, and to make everything appear more lugu¬ 
 brious, the most awful storm of thunder and rain I 
 
 almost ever heard. The Senora de- -s brother, 
 
 is a captain in the government service, and he and 
 his regiment have distinguished themselves very much 
 during these last few days, consequently she is dread¬ 
 fully uneasy to night. 
 
 The gentlemen seem inclined to pass the night 
 in talking. We think of lying down, and sleeping 
 if we can. I hope nothing will happen in the night, 
 for everything seems worse in the darkness and con¬ 
 sequent confusion. 
 
 21st. —After passing a sleepless night, listening to 
 the roaring of cannon, and figuring to ourselves the 
 devastation that must have taken place, we find to 
 our amazement that nothing decisive has occurred. 
 The noise last night was mere skirmishing, and half 
 the cannons were fired in the air. In the darkness 
 there was no mark. But though the loss on either 
 side is so much less than might have been expected, 
 the rebels in the palace cannot be very comfortable, for 
 they say that the air is infected by the number of 
 unburied dead bodies lying there ; indeed there are 
 many lying unburied on the streets, which is enough 
 to raise a%fever to add to the calamitous state of 
 things. 
 
 The government Bulletin of to-day expresses the 
 
 31* 
 
366 
 
 SKIRMISH. 
 
 regret of the supreme magistrate at seeing his hopes 
 of restoring peace frustrated, and publishes the as¬ 
 surances of fidelity which they have received from 
 all the departments, especially from Puebla, Quere- 
 taro and Vera Cruz, in spite of the extraordinary 
 despatches which had there been received from Fa¬ 
 rias, desiring them to recognise Urrea as minister of 
 war, and Don Manuel Crecencio Rejon as minister 
 of the interior ; “ which communications,” says the 
 commandant of Queretaro, “ produced in my soul 
 only indignation and contempt towards their misera¬ 
 ble authors.” 
 
 The account of the yesterday’s affair is as follows. 
 “ The pronunciados in the palace, knowing that the 
 infantry which was to come from Puebla to the as¬ 
 sistance of the government, was expected to arrive 
 yesterday, endeavored to surprise it near the gate of 
 Saint Lazarus, with a column of infantry of two hun¬ 
 dred in number, and some cavalry ; but the brave 
 Colonel Torrejon, with eighty dragoons, beat them 
 completely, killing, wounding and taking many pris¬ 
 oners, and pursuing them as far as the Archbishop’s 
 Palace. The supreme government, appreciating the 
 distinguished services and brilliant conduct of the 
 aforesaid Colonel, have given him the rank of Gen¬ 
 eral of Brigade.” 
 
 The President in to-day’s proclamation, after de¬ 
 claring that “ the beautiful capital of the Republic is 
 the theatre of war,” says “ that nothing but considera¬ 
 tion for the lives and properties of the inhabitants 
 has been able to contain the enthusiasm of the sol¬ 
 diers of the nation, and to prevent them from put- 
 
GENERAL, VALENCIA S DISCOURSE. 
 
 367 
 
 ting forth their whole force to dislodge the rebels 
 from the different points of which they have pos¬ 
 sessed themselves.” The President adds, “ that this 
 revolt is the more inexcusable, as his administration 
 has always been gentle and moderate; that he has 
 economized the public treasure, respected the laws, 
 and that citizens of whatever opinion had always 
 enjoyed perfect tranquillity under his rule— that 
 constitutional reforms were about being realized, as 
 well as the hopes of forming by them a bond of 
 union between all Mexicans. He concludes by re¬ 
 proaching those revolutionary men who thus cause 
 the shedding of so much innocent blood. 
 
 The commander-in-chief, General Valencia, writing 
 perhaps under some inspiring influence, is more fig¬ 
 urative in his discourse. “ Soldiers of Liberty ! ” he 
 exclaims ; “ Anarchy put out its head, and your arms 
 drowned it in a moment.” This would have been a 
 finer figure in the days of the great lakes. And 
 again he exclaims — “ Mexicans ! my heart feels itself 
 wounded by the deepest grief, and all humanity shud¬ 
 ders in contemplating the unsoundable chaos of evils 
 in which the authors of this rebellion have sunk the 
 incautious men whom they have seduced, in order 
 to form with their dead bodies the bloody ladder 
 which was to raise them to their aggrandizement! 
 Already the Mexican people begin to gather the bit¬ 
 ter fruits with which these men who blazon forth 
 their humanity and philanthropy have always allured 
 them, feeding themselves on the blood of their broth¬ 
 ers, and striking up songs to the sad measure of 
 sobs and weeping ! ” These tropes are very striking. 
 
363 
 
 MATERNAL AFFECTION. 
 
 All is brought before us as in a picture. We see 
 anarchy raising his rascally head above the water, 
 (most likely adorned with a liberty cap) and the 
 brave soldiers instantly driving it down again. We 
 behold Gomez Farias and Urrea rushing up a ladder 
 of dead bodies. And then the Lucrezia Borgia kind 
 of scene that follows ! — alluring their victims with 
 bitter fruit, (perhaps with sour grapes) drinking blood, 
 and singing horribly out of tune to a running bass of 
 sobs! The teeth of humanity are set on edge only 
 by reading it. Well may his Excellency add — “I 
 present them to the nations of the world as an inim¬ 
 itable model of ferocity and barbarity ! ” 
 
 This morning General - sent a few lines from 
 
 the citadel, where he and the President are, in which 
 he speaks with confidence of speedily putting down 
 the rebels. C-n returned many affectionate mes¬ 
 
 sages, accompanied by a supply of cigars. They say 
 that the greatest possible bravery is shown by the 
 boys of the Military College, who are very fine little 
 fellows, and all up in arms on the side of the govern¬ 
 ment. A strong instance of maternal affection and 
 courage was shown by the Sehora G-this morn¬ 
 
 ing. Having received various reports concerning her 
 son, who belongs to this college; first that he was 
 wounded; then that the wound was severe ; then 
 that it was slight — and being naturally extremely 
 uneasy about him, she set off alone, and on foot, at 
 five o’clock in the morning, without mentioning her 
 intention to any one, carrying with her a basket of 
 provisions : passed across the square, and through all 
 the streets planted with cannon, made her way 
 
CATHEDRAL JEWELS. 
 
 369 
 
 through all the troops into the citadel; had the satis¬ 
 faction of finding her son in perfect health, and re¬ 
 turned home, just as her husband and family had be¬ 
 come aware of her absence. 
 
 General Valencia is said to have a large party 
 amongst the soldiers, who are in favor of his being 
 named President. It is said that he was yesterday 
 riding up and down in the lines in a most spirited 
 manner, and rather unsteady in his saddle. Some 
 rumors there are that Santa Anna has arrived at Pe- 
 rote, but as he travels in a litter, he cannot be here 
 for some days, even should this be true. There 
 seems no particular reason to believe that this will 
 end soon, and we must remain shut up here as pa¬ 
 tiently as we can. In the intervals of firing, the gen¬ 
 tlemen go out, but they will not hear of our doing so, 
 except sometimes for a few minutes in the evening, 
 and then either thunder or firing sends us back. 
 
 Various people, and especially the Countess C-a, 
 
 have invited us to their country places ; but besides 
 that we are in the safest part of the city, and have 
 
 several guests, C-n does not think it right for him 
 
 to leave Mexico. They say that house-rents will rise 
 hereabouts, on account of the advantages of the locale 
 in cases of this sort. 
 
 Amongst other announcements, the government 
 have published, that the rebels have demanded that 
 the jewels, together with the service of gold and sil¬ 
 ver belonging to the Holy Cathedral Church shall be 
 given up to them, and threaten to seize the whole by 
 force, should their demand not be acceded to within 
 two hours. “It is very probable that they will do 
 
370 
 
 PROCLAMATION. 
 
 so,” adds the bulletin ; “ thus adding a new crime to 
 all they have committed.” 
 
 It is now evening, and again they announce an 
 attack upon the palace, but I do not believe them, 
 and listen to the cannon with tolerable tranquillity. 
 All day, families continue to pass by, leaving Mexico. 
 The poor shopkeepers are to be pitied. Besides the 
 total cessation of trade, one at least has been shot, 
 and others plundered. A truce of two hours was 
 granted this afternoon, to bury the dead, who were 
 carried out of the palace. Two of our colleagues 
 ventured here this morning. 
 
 22 d. — The Government Bulletin of this morning, 
 contains a letter from Santa Anna, dated Mango de 
 Clavo, 19th of July, informing the President, with 
 every expression of loyalty and attachment to the 
 government, that according to his desire he will set 
 off this morning in the direction of Perote, “ at the 
 head of a respectable division.” Various other as¬ 
 surances of fidelity from Victoria, from Galindo, &.C., 
 are inserted, with the remark that the Mexican public 
 will thus see the uniformity and decision of the whole 
 Republic in favor of order, and especially will receive 
 in the communication of his Excellency, General 
 Santa Anna, an unequivocal proof of this unity of 
 sentiment, notwithstanding the assurances given by 
 the rebels to the people, that Santa Anna would 
 either assist them, or would take no part at all in the 
 affair. It must be confessed, however, that His Ex¬ 
 cellency is rather a dangerous umpire. 
 
 The Governor Vieyra published a proclamation to¬ 
 day, declaring “ Mexico in a state of siege.” It 
 
president’s letter. 
 
 371 
 
 seems to me that we knew that already ! Upon the 
 whole, things are going on well for the government. 
 Parties of pronunciados have been put down in va¬ 
 rious places. The wounded on both sides have been 
 carried to the hospital of San Andres. A battery is 
 now planted against the palace, in the Calle de Pla- 
 teros, where they are at least near enough to do more 
 execution than before. 
 
 One circumstance worthy of notice has been pub¬ 
 lished to-day. The rebels, as you may recollect, de¬ 
 clared that they had permitted the President to leave 
 the palace, on condition of his taking conciliatory 
 measures, and that he had agreed to favor their pre¬ 
 tensions. Now here is Bustamante’s own letter, writ¬ 
 ten in the palace, when surrounded by his enemies; 
 a proof, if any were wanting, of his exceeding per¬ 
 sonal bravery, and perfect coolness in the midst of 
 danger. There is something rather Roman in these 
 few lines — 
 
 “ Ministers — I protest that I find myself without 
 liberty and without defence, the guards of the palace 
 having abandoned me. Under these circumstances, 
 let no order of mine, which is contrary to the duties 
 of the post that I occupy, be obeyed. Since, although 
 I am resolved to die before failing in my obligations, 
 it will not be difficult to falsify my signature. Let 
 this be made known by you to the Congress, and to 
 those Generals and Chiefs who preserve sentiments 
 of honor and fidelity. 
 
 “ National Palace, July 15th, 1840. 
 
 Anastasio Bustamante.” 
 
372 
 
 PROPOSITIONS. 
 
 The following propositions are made to the gov¬ 
 ernment by the rebels. 
 
 Article 1st. It not having been the intention of 
 the citizen Jose Urrea, and of the troops under his 
 command, to attack in any way the person of the 
 President of the Republic, General Anastasio Busta¬ 
 mante, he is replaced in the exercise of his functions. 
 
 2d. Using his faculties as President of the Re¬ 
 public, he will cause the firing to cease on the part 
 of the troops opposed to the citizen Urrea; who on 
 his side will do the same. 
 
 3d. The President shall organize a Ministry de¬ 
 serving of public confidence, and shall promise to 
 reestablish the observance of the constitution of 
 1824, convoking a Congress immediately, for the ex¬ 
 press purpose of reform. 
 
 “ 4th. Upon these foundations, peace and order 
 shall be reestablished, and no one shall be molested 
 for the opinions which he has manifested, or for the 
 principles he may have supported, all who are in 
 prison for political opinions being set at liberty.” 
 
 Almonte, in the name of the President, rejected 
 these conditions, but offered to spare the lives of the 
 pronunciados, in case they should surrender within 
 twenty-four hours. The chiefs of the opposite party 
 hereupon declared the door shut to all reconcilement, 
 but requested a suspension of hostilities, which was 
 granted. 
 
 A-is going to drive me out during this suspen¬ 
 sion, in an open cab, to call on the C-a family. 
 
 The-s have left their house, their position having 
 
 become too dangerous. Another letter from General 
 
NEW PROPOSITIONS. 
 
 373 
 
 Almonte this morning. Nothing decisive. The streets 
 continue blocked up with cannon, the roofs of the 
 houses and churches are covered with troops, the shops 
 remain closed, and the streets deserted. People are 
 paying ounces for the least morsel of room in the 
 suburbs, on the San Cosme side of the city. 
 
 23d. — Yesterday, the Archbishop invited the chiefs 
 of the pronunciados to a conference in his Archiepis- 
 copal Palace, in order that he might endeavor, in his 
 apostolical character, to check the effusion of blood. 
 The conference took place, and the rebels requested 
 a suspension of hostilities, whilst the Prelate should 
 communicate its results to the President, which was 
 granted by the General-in-chief. But the pronuncia¬ 
 dos broke the truce, and endeavored to surprise the 
 President and Almonte in the citadel, passing over 
 the parapets in the Calle de Monterilla. They were 
 repulsed with slaughter, and a fierce cannonading was 
 kept up all night. They have now requested a par¬ 
 ley, which is granted them. . . . 
 
 In the midst of all, there is a communication from 
 the Governor of Morelia, giving an account of the 
 routing of a band of robbers who had attacked an 
 hacienda. 
 
 We went to Tacubaya, and met with no other dan¬ 
 ger but that of being drenched wet; as a daily water¬ 
 ing of the earth, short but severe, now takes place 
 regularly. The new propositions of the pronunciados 
 are these: 
 
 1st. “The forces of both armies shall retire to oc¬ 
 cupy places out of the capital. 
 
 2d. Both the belligerent parties shall agree that 
 
 32 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
374 
 
 NEW PROPOSITIONS. 
 
 the constitutional laws of 1836 shall remain without 
 force. 
 
 3d. A convention shall be convoked, establishing 
 the new constitution, upon the basis fixed in the Con¬ 
 stitutive Act, which will begin to be in force directly. 
 
 4th. The elections of the members of the con¬ 
 vention, will be verified according to the laws by 
 which the deputies of the Constituent Congress were 
 directed. 
 
 5th. His actual Excellency, the President, will form 
 a provisional government, he being the chief, until 
 the foregoing articles begin to take effect. 
 
 6th. No one shall be molested for political opin¬ 
 ions manifested since the year’21 until now: con¬ 
 sequently the persons, employments and properties of 
 all who have taken part in this or in the past revolu¬ 
 tions shall be respected. 
 
 7th. That the first article may take effect, the 
 government will facilitate all that is necessary to both 
 parties.” 
 
 The government have refused these second propo¬ 
 sitions ; and at the same time make known to the 
 Mexican world that various deserters from the op¬ 
 posite party assure them, that the pronunciados, 
 including the principal chiefs, are occupied in de¬ 
 stroying everything within the palace — that the 
 general archives and those of the ministers, are torn 
 in pieces, and that the despatches are taken to make 
 cartouches, and so on. They end by accusing them 
 of being all united with the most noted robbers and 
 public highwaymen, such as a Ricardo Teo, a Jose 
 Polvorilla, a Roman Chavez, a Juan Vega, a Rosas, 
 
SANTA ANNA EXPECTED. 
 
 375 
 
 a Gnrcilazo, and others. I put down the names of 
 these Mexican Dick Turpins and Paul Cliffords, in 
 case we should meet them some beau jour. 
 
 More forces have arrived from Puebla and Toluca. 
 Santa Anna is expected to reach Puebla to-night, 
 and again General Valencia holds out an invitation 
 to repentance to the “ deceived men in the palace.” 
 
 25th. — A letter is published to-day from Santa 
 Anna to General Victoria, assuring him that what¬ 
 ever personal considerations might have detained him 
 in his country seat, he accepts with pleasure the 
 command of the division going to Perote, and will 
 in this, as in all things, obey the orders of the su¬ 
 preme government. Firing, with short intervals, con¬ 
 tinued all yesterday, during the night and this morn¬ 
 ing. Two mortars are placed in front of the old 
 Acordada, in the direction of the palace, but as yet 
 they have not been used. There are a crowd of 
 people examining them. 
 
 Things remain nearly in the same position as be¬ 
 fore, except that there are more deserters from the 
 revolted party. A proclamation was issued by Ur- 
 rea, accusing the government of all the evils that 
 afflict the city, and of all the bloodshed caused by 
 this civil war. Amongst other things, they complain 
 of the death of Dr. Plan, who was shot in the Calle del 
 Seminario, and, according to them, by the government 
 troops. General Valencia answers this time without 
 figures, and with good reason, that the responsibility 
 of these misfortunes must be with those who have 
 provoked the war. 
 
 In the bulletin of to-day, the government praise 
 
376 
 
 GOVERNMENT BULLETIN. 
 
 their own moderation in having taken off the duties 
 from all provisions entering the capital, in order that 
 the price might not become too high, an advantage 
 in which the pronunciados themselves participate — 
 mention their exertions to supply the city with water, 
 and their permission given to the pronunciados to 
 send their wounded to the hospital* of San Andres. 
 They deny that the government has any share in the 
 evils that afflict the whole population, their endeavor 
 having ever been to preserve tranquillity and order ; 
 “ but when a handful of factious men have taken 
 possession of part of the city, no choice is left them 
 but to besiege and combat them until they surrender, 
 and not to abandon the peaceful citizens to pillage 
 and vengeance.” They declare that they might al¬ 
 ready have subdued them, and are only held back by 
 the fear of involving in their ruin the number of in¬ 
 nocent persons who occupy the circumjacent houses. 
 The policy of this moderation seems doubtful, but 
 the sincerity of the President is unimpeachable. 
 They continue to observe upon the absurdity of this 
 handful of men pretending to impose laws upon the 
 whole republic, when already the body of the nation 
 have given unequivocal proofs that they have no 
 desire that the questions relative to their political in¬ 
 stitutions should be decided by force of arms. 
 
 While the pronunciados declare on their side that 
 “ information of pronunciamientos everywhere” has 
 been received by them, the government remarks that 
 eleven days have now elapsed, which has given full 
 time to all the departments to declare themselves in 
 favor of those who call themselves their representa- 
 
GENERAL URREA. 
 
 377 
 
 tives ; but on the contrary, nothing has been received 
 but assurances of fidelity, and of support to the gov¬ 
 ernment cause. I believe that the English packet 
 will be detained till the conclusion of this affair, but 
 should it not be so, you need not feel any uneasiness 
 in regard to us. Our house is full of people, money, 
 jewels and plate — our stables of horses and mules. 
 Amongst the diamonds, are those of the Sehora 
 
 L-, which are very fine, and there are gold 
 
 rouleaus enough to set up a bank at San Agustin. 
 Santa Anna seems in no hurry to arrive. People 
 expect him to-morrow, but perhaps he thinks the 
 hour has not come for him. 
 
 2 6th. — The proclamation of the Governor of the 
 department of Jalisco is published to-day, in which 
 he observes: “ The nation cannot forget that this 
 Urrea, who has brought so many evils upon his 
 country, this faithful friend of Mr. Carlos Baudin, 
 and of the French squadron which invaded our terri¬ 
 tory, for whom he procured all the fresh provisions 
 which they required, is the same man who now es¬ 
 capes from prison, to figure at the head of a tumult¬ 
 uous crowd, whose first steps were marked by the 
 capture of his Excellency the President.” Firing 
 continues, but without any decided result. It is a 
 sound that one does not learn to hear with indiffer¬ 
 ence. There seems little doubt that ultimately the 
 government will gain the day, but the country will no 
 doubt remain for some time in a melancholy state of 
 disorder. Bills are fastened to-day on the corners of 
 the streets, forbidding all ingress or egress through 
 the military lines, from six in the evening till eight in 
 32* 
 
378 
 
 AWKWARD BLUNDER. 
 
 the morning. Gentlemen who live near us, now 
 venture in towards evening, to talk politics or play at 
 whist; but generally, in the middle of a game, some 
 report is brought in, which drives them back to their 
 houses and families with all possible haste. Sehor 
 -, a young Spaniard who is living with us, re¬ 
 turning here late last night, was challenged by the 
 sentinels at the corner of the street, with the usual 
 “ Quien viva ?” to which, being in a brown study, 
 he mechanically replied, “Spain!” Fortunately, 
 the officer on duty w f as a man of common sense and 
 humanity, and instead of firing, warned him to take 
 better care for the future. 
 
 Last night, the Archbishop paid a visit to the Pres¬ 
 ident, in the convent of San Agustin, to intercede in 
 favor of the pronunciados. The mortars have not 
 yet played against the palace, owing, it is said, to the 
 desire of the General-in-chief to avoid the further 
 effusion of blood. 
 
 The tranquillity of the sovereign people during all 
 this period, is astonishing. In wffiat other city in the 
 world would they not have taken part with one or 
 other side ? Shops shut, workmen out of employ¬ 
 ment, thousands of idle people, subsisting, Heaven 
 only knows how — yet no riot, no confusion, appa¬ 
 rently no impatience. Groups of people collect on 
 the streets, or stand talking before their doors, and 
 speculate upon probabilities, but await the decision 
 of their military chiefs, as if it were a judgment from 
 heaven, from which it were both useless and impious 
 to appeal. 
 
 27 ili. — “ Long live the Mexican Republic! Long 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 379 
 
 live the Supreme Government! ” Thus begins the 
 Government Bulletin of to-day, to which I say Amen ! 
 with all my heart, since it ushers in the news of the 
 termination of the revolution. And what particularly 
 attracts my attention, is, that instead of the usual 
 stamp, the eagle, serpent and nopal, we have to-day 
 a shaggy pony, flying as never did mortal horse be¬ 
 fore, his tail and mane in a most violent state of ex¬ 
 citement, his four short legs all in the air at once, and 
 on his back a man in a jockey cap, furiously blowing 
 a trumpet, from which issues a white flag, on which 
 is printed “ News ! ” in English ; and apparently in 
 the act of springing over a mile-stone, on which is 
 inscribed, also, in English — “100 to New York!” 
 
 “ We have,” says the Government, “ the grateful 
 satisfaction of announcing, that the revolution of this 
 capital has terminated happily. The rebellious troops 
 having offered, in the night, to lay down arms upon 
 certain conditions, His Excellency, the Commander- 
 in-chief, has accepted their proposals with convenient 
 modifications, which will be verified to-day ; the em¬ 
 pire of laws, order, tranquillity, and all other social 
 guarantees being thus reestablished,” &,c. Cuevas, 
 Minister of the Interior, publishes a Circular addressed 
 to the Governors of the Departments to the same ef¬ 
 fect, adding, that “ in consideration of the inhabitants 
 and properties which required the prompt termination 
 of this disastrous revolution, the guarantees of per¬ 
 sonal safety solicited by the rebels have been granted, 
 but none of their pretensions have been acceded to; 
 the conspiracy of the fifteenth having thus had no 
 other effect but to make manifest the general wish 
 
380 
 
 MADAME DE STAEL. 
 
 and opinion in favor of the government, laws and 
 legitimate authorities.” A similar circular is pub¬ 
 lished by General Almonte. 
 
 Having arrived at this satisfactory conclusion, which 
 must be as agreeable to you as it is to us, I shall close 
 this long letter, merely observing, in apology, that as 
 Madame de Stael said, in answer to the remark, that 
 “ Women have nothing to do with politics; ” — “ That 
 may be, but when a woman’s head is about to be cut 
 off, it is natural she should ask why ? ” so it appears 
 to me, that when bullets are whizzing about our ears, 
 and shells falling within a few yards of us, it ought 
 to be considered extremely natural and quite feminine 
 to inquire into the cause of such phenomena. 
 
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH. 
 
 Plan of the Federalists — Letter from Farias — Signing of articles 
 •—Dispersion of the “ pronunciados ” — Conditions — Orders 
 of General Valencia — Of the Governor — Address of General 
 Valencia — Departure of our guests — The Cosmopolita— State 
 of the palace and streets— Bulletin of the firing — Interior of 
 houses — Escape of families — Conduct of the troops — Coun¬ 
 tess del V-e — Santa Anna — Congress — Anecdote — Dis¬ 
 
 cussion in Congress — Leprosy. 
 
 28 tlr July. 
 
 To-day is published the plan which was formed by 
 the federalists for the “ political regeneration of the 
 republic.” They observe, that it is six years since the 
 federal plan, adopted freely by the nation in 1824, 
 was replaced by a system which monopolizes all ad¬ 
 vantages in favor of a few ; that evils had now arrived 
 at that height, in which the endeavors of a few men, 
 however illustrious, could have no effect in remedying 
 them ; rendering it necessary for all Mexicans to 
 unite in one combined and energetic force to better 
 their situation ; that salvation can only be hoped for 
 from the nation itself, &c. They then proceed to lay 
 their plan, consisting of ten articles, before the public. 
 
 The first restores the constitution of ’24, the na¬ 
 tional interests to be reformed by a congress, com¬ 
 posed of four deputies from each state. By the 
 second, the reformed constitution is to be submitted 
 
382 
 
 FEDERAL PLAN. 
 
 to the legislatures of the states for approbation. By 
 the third, they engage to respect the Catholic religion, 
 the form of popular government, representative and 
 federal, the division of powers, political liberty of the 
 press, the organization of a military and naval force, 
 and the equality of rights between all the inhabitants 
 of the nation. By the fourth article, a provisional 
 government is to be established in the capital, whose 
 functions are to be limited exclusively to the direction 
 of the external relations of the republic. By the fifth, 
 this provisional government is to be vested in a Mex¬ 
 ican, re-uniting the requisites for this employment, as 
 established in the constitution of ’24. By the sixth, 
 the republic promises to give back the ten per cent, 
 added to the duties of consumption, to those who 
 have paid it until now. By the seventh, in eight 
 months after the triumph of the present revolution, 
 all interior custom-houses are to be suppressed, and 
 henceforth no contributions shall be imposed upon 
 the internal circulation of goods, whether foreign or 
 domestic. By the eighth, they promise to confirm all 
 the civil and military employments of those w'ho do 
 not oppose this political regeneration. By the ninth, 
 the army is to be paid with great punctuality. By the 
 tenth, a general amnesty is promised to all who have 
 committed political errors since the Independence ; 
 and the names of Farias and Urrea are followed by 
 a goodly list of Major-Generals, Colonels, &c. 
 
 There is also published a letter from Farias, indig¬ 
 nantly denying the report of the federal party’s 
 having threatened to seize the Cathedral jewels and 
 plate; accompanied by one from the Archbishop 
 
CAPITULATION. 
 
 383 
 
 himself, not only denying the circumstance, but ex¬ 
 pressing his satisfaction with the conduct of the fed¬ 
 eralist party in regard to all the convents which they 
 had occupied, and the respect which they had shown 
 towards all things pertaining to the church. 
 
 On the night of the twenty-sixth, the articles of 
 capitulation were signed on both sides ; a letter from 
 General Andrade having been received by General 
 Valencia, to the effect that as General Urrea had 
 abandoned the command of the troops and left it in 
 his hands, he, in the name of the other chiefs and 
 officers, was ready to ratify the conditions stipulated 
 for by them the preceding night. This was at three 
 in the morning ; and about eight o’clock, the capitu¬ 
 lation was announced to the pronunciados in the dif¬ 
 ferent positions occupied by them ; and they began 
 to disperse in different directions, in groups of about 
 a hundred, crying, “Viva la Federacion!” At a 
 quarter before two o’clock, General Manuel Andrade 
 marched out, with all the honors of war, to Tlana- 
 pantla, followed by the pronunciados of the palace. 
 
 This morning, at eleven, Te Deum was sung in 
 the cathedral, there being present the Archbishop, 
 the President, and all the authorities. The bells, 
 which have preserved an ominous silence during 
 these events, are now ringing forth in a confusion of 
 tongues. The palace being crippled with balls, and 
 in a state of utter confusion, the President and his 
 ministers occupy cells in the convent of San Agustin. 
 
 The Federalists have marched out upon the fol¬ 
 lowing conditions: 1st, Their lives, persons, em¬ 
 ployments and properties are to be inviolably pre- 
 
384 
 
 CONDITIONS. 
 
 served. 2d, General Valencia engages to interpose 
 his influence with the government by all legal means, 
 that they may request the chambers to proceed to 
 reform the constitution. 3d, All political events, 
 which have occurred since the fifteenth, up to this 
 date, are to be totally forgotten, the forces who ad¬ 
 hered to the plan of the fifteenth being included in 
 this agreement. 4th, A passport out of the republic 
 is to be given to whatever individual, comprehended 
 in this agreement, may solicit it. 5th, The troops of 
 the pronunciados are to proceed to wherever General 
 Valencia orders them, commanded by one of their 
 own captains, whom he shall point out, and who 
 must answer for any disorders they may commit. 
 6th, General Valencia, and all the other generals of 
 his army, must promise, on their honor, before the 
 whole world, to keep this treaty, and see to its exact 
 accomplishment. 7th, It only applies to Mexicans. 
 8th, Whenever it is ratified by the chiefs of both 
 parties, it is to be punctually fulfilled, hostilities be¬ 
 ing suspended until six in the morning of the twenty- 
 seventh, which gives time to ratify the conditions. 
 
 The President may exclaim, “ One such victory 
 more, and I am undone ! ” Orders are issued by 
 General Valencia to the effect, that until the Feder¬ 
 alist troops have marched out of the city, no group 
 passing five in number will be permitted in the 
 streets ; that until then, there is to be no trading 
 through the streets ; that at three o’clock the eating- 
 houses may be thrown open, but not the taverns till 
 the next day ; and that the police and alcaldes of the 
 different wards are held responsible for the accom- 
 
governor’s orders. 
 
 385 
 
 plishment of these orders, and may make use of arm¬ 
 ed force to preserve order. 
 
 The Governor enforces these orders with addi¬ 
 tions. People must turn in at nine o’clock, or give 
 an account of themselves — must give up all their 
 guns, carbines, &c., to the alcalde, under a heavy 
 penalty ; and none, excepting military men, may go 
 on horseback, from five in the evening until six in 
 the morning, during five days. 
 
 General Valencia makes a pathetic address to his 
 soldiers, and foretells that henceforth all mothers, 
 wives, and old men, will point them out as they pass, 
 saying, “ there go our deliverers ! ” and adds — “ I 
 grow proud in speaking to you.” “ Inhabitants of 
 this beautiful Capital! ” he says again, “ the aurora 
 of the 15th of July was very different from that of 
 the 27th; that prognosticated destruction, this rises 
 announcing happiness. Never again will you hear 
 the crash of cannon, hut to celebrate the triumphs of 
 your country, or to solemnize your civic functions .” 
 May your words be prophetic, and especially may 
 you yourself assist in their accomplishment. 
 
 29th. — Our guests have left us, all but Monsieur 
 
 -, who, although recovered, cannot yet be moved. 
 
 All money, plate, and jewels in our charge, are re¬ 
 stored to their rightful owners ; and the Spanish 
 colors, which have never been hoisted, return to their 
 former obscurity. I re-open the piano, uncover and 
 tune the harp, and as we have been almost entirely 
 shut up during thirteen days of heavenly weather, 
 feel rejoiced at the prospect of getting out again. As 
 yet, I have not seen the state of things in the city, 
 33 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
386 
 
 STATE OF THE CITY. 
 
 but the “ Cosmopolite ” of to-day says — “ I should 
 wish to have the pen of Jeremiah, to describe the 
 desolation and calamities of this city, which has been 
 the mistress of the new world. In the days of 
 mourning that have passed, we have not been able 
 to fix our eyes on any part of it, where we have 
 not encountered desolation, weeping, and death. 
 The palace has become a sieve, and the southern 
 bulwark is destroyed ; that part of the portal which 
 looks towards the Monterilla is ruined ; the finest 
 buildings in the centre have suffered a great deal; 
 innumerable houses at great distances from it have 
 been also much injured by stray balls. Persons of 
 all ages, classes, and conditions, who interfered in 
 nothing, have been killed, not only in the streets, but 
 even in their own apartments. The balls crossed 
 each other in every direction, and the risk has been 
 universal. The city has been in the dark during 
 these days, without patrol or watch ; and many male¬ 
 factors have taken advantage of this opportunity, to 
 use the murderous poniard without risk and with the 
 utmost perfidy. At the break of day, horrible spec¬ 
 tacles were seen, of groups of dogs disputing the re¬ 
 mains of a man, a woman, and a child.” The “ Cos¬ 
 mopolite ” goes on to insist upon the necessity of 
 forming a new ministry and of a reform in the two 
 houses. 
 
 * August 1st. — Have just come in from a drive 
 through the city. The palace and houses near it 
 are certainly in a melancholy condition. The palace, 
 witli its innumerable smashed windows and battered 
 walls, looks as if it had become stone blind in con- 
 
OF THE PALACE. 
 
 387 
 
 sequence of having the small-pox. Broken windows 
 and walls full of holes characterize all the streets in 
 that direction, yet there is less real damage done 
 than might have been expected, after such a furious 
 firing and cannonading. 
 
 To read the accounts published, and of the truth 
 of which we had auricular demonstration, one would 
 have expected to find half the city in ruins. Here is 
 the sum total of the firing, as published. “On the 
 15th, firing from two o’clock till the next day. On 
 the 16th, continual firing till one o’clock. Suspen¬ 
 sion till four o’clock. Firing from that hour, without 
 intermission, till the following day. 17th, firing 
 from morning till night. 18th, firing from before 
 day-break till the evening. 19th, continual firing. 
 Constant emigration of families these last four days. 
 20th, continual firing all day. Skirmish at the gate 
 of San Lazaro. 21st, firing continued, though less 
 hotly, but in the night with more vigor than ever. 
 22d, day of the Junta in the Archbishop’s palace. 
 Firing began at eleven at night, and lasted till morn¬ 
 ing. 23d, firing till mid-day. Parley. 24th, for¬ 
 midable firing, terrible attack, and firing till morn¬ 
 ing. 25th, firing till the evening. 26th, firing from 
 six in the morning till two o’clock. Capitulation 
 that night.” 
 
 As “ every bullet has its billet,” they must all have 
 lodged somewhere. Of course, nothing else is talked 
 of as yet, and every one has his own personal expe¬ 
 riences to recount. Some houses have become nearly 
 uninhabitable — glass, pictures, clocks, plaster, all 
 lying in morsels about the floor, and air-holes in the 
 
388 
 
 INTERIOR OF THE HOUSES. 
 
 roofs and walls, through which these winged messen¬ 
 gers of destruction have passed. Ladies and children 
 escaped, in many instances, by the azoteas, going 
 along the street from one roof to another, not being 
 able to pass where the cannon was planted. The 
 
 Senora-, with her six beautiful boys, escaped in 
 
 that way to her brother’s house, in the evening, and 
 in the very thick of the firing. I was in her draw¬ 
 ing-room to-day, which has a most forlorn appear¬ 
 ance ; the floor covered with heaps of plaster, broken 
 pictures, bullets, broken glass, &c., the windows out, 
 and holes in the wall that look as if they were made 
 for the pipe of a stove to fit into. 
 
 The soldiers of both parties, who occupied the 
 roofs of the houses, behaved with great civility; their 
 officers, on many occasions, sending to the family 
 with a request that they would complain of any inso¬ 
 lence that might be shewn by their men. But no 
 civility could ensure the safety of the dwellers in 
 these houses. 
 
 The poor nuns have been terribly frightened, and 
 have passed these stormy nights in prayers and 
 hymns, which those who live near their convents say 
 were frequently heard at midnight, in the intervals of 
 the firing. 
 
 I went to see the Countess de V-e, and she 
 
 showed me the great hole in the wall by her bed¬ 
 side, through which the shell made its entree. The 
 fragments are still lying there, so heavy that I could 
 not lift them. All the windows at the head of that 
 street are broken in pieces. The shops are re¬ 
 opened, however, and people are going about their 
 
LETTER FROM SANTA ANNA. 
 
 389 
 
 usual avocations, pretty much as if nothing had 
 happened; and probably the whole result of all this 
 confusion and destruction will be — a change of 
 ministry. 
 
 Santa Anna, finding that he was not wanted, has 
 modestly retired to Manga de Clavo, and has ad¬ 
 dressed the following letter to the Minister of War : 
 
 “ The triumph which the national arms have just 
 obtained over the horrible attempts of anarchy, com¬ 
 municated to me by your Excellency, in your note of 
 the 27 th, is very worthy of being celebrated by every 
 citizen who desires the welfare of his country, always 
 supposing that public vengeance (la vindicta publica ) 
 has been satisfied; and in this case, I offer you a 
 thousand congratulations. This division, although 
 filled with regret at not having participated on this 
 occasion in the risks of our companions in arms, are 
 rejoiced at so fortunate an event, and hope that energy 
 and a wholesome severity will now strengthen order 
 forever, and will begin an era of felicity for the 
 country. The happy event has been celebrated 
 here, in the fortress, and in Tepeyahualco, where 
 the first brigade had already arrived, (and whom I 
 have ordered to counter-march,) with every demon¬ 
 stration of joy. I anxiously desire to receive the 
 details which your Excellency offers to communicate 
 to me, so that if the danger has entirely ceased, I 
 may return to my hacienda , and may lay down the 
 command of those troops which your Excellency 
 orders me to preserve here. 
 
 “ With sentiments of the most lively joy for the ces- 
 33 * 
 
390 
 
 CONGRESS. 
 
 sation of the misfortunes of the capital, I reiterate to 
 your Excellency those of ray particular esteem. 
 
 “ God and Liberty. 
 
 “ Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna. 
 
 “Perote, July 29, 1S40.” 
 
 The houses of Congress are again opened. The 
 ministers presented themselves in the Chamber of 
 Deputies, and a short account of the late revolution 
 was given by General Almonte, who by the way was 
 never taken prisoner, as was at first reported. He 
 had gone out to ride early in the morning, when 
 General Urrea, with some soldiers, rode up to him 
 and demanded his sword ; telling him that the Presi¬ 
 dent was arrested. For all answer, Almonte drew 
 his sword, and fighting his way through them, gal¬ 
 loped to the citadel. Urrea, riding back, passed by 
 Almonte’s house, and politely taking off his hat, 
 saluted the ladies of the family, hoped they were 
 well, and remarked on the fineness of the weather. 
 They were not a little astonished when, a short time 
 after, they heard what had happened. 
 
 Madame de C- and her daughter were out 
 
 riding when the firing began on the morning of the 
 revolution, and galloped home in consternation. 
 
 7 t/i. — A long discussion to-day in Congress on 
 the propriety of granting extraordinary powers to the 
 President; also a publication of the despatches writ¬ 
 ten by Gomez Farias during the revolution. He 
 speaks with the utmost confidence of the success of 
 his enterprise. In his first letter, he observes that 
 General Urrea, with the greater part of the garrison 
 
GOMEZ FARIAS. 
 
 391 
 
 and people of the capital, have pronounced for the re¬ 
 establishment of the federal system, and have, by the 
 most fortunate combination of circumstances, got 
 possession of the palace, and arrested the President. 
 That troops have been passing over to them all day, 
 and that the triumph of the federalists is so sure, he 
 has little doubt that the following morning will see 
 tranquillity and federalism reestablished. The dif¬ 
 ferent accounts of the two parties are rather amusing. 
 It is said that Gomez Farias is concealed in Mex¬ 
 ico. 
 
 8th. — Paid a visit to-day, where the lady of the 
 house is a leper ; though it is supposed that all who 
 are afflicted with this scourge are sent to the hospital 
 of San Lazaro. 
 
 We rode before breakfast this morning to the old 
 church of La Pied ad, and on our return, found a 
 packet containing letters from London, Paris, New 
 York, and Madrid. The arrival of the English 
 packet, which brings all these nouveantes, is about 
 the most interesting event that occurs here. 
 
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH. 
 
 Visiters — Virgin de los Remedios — Encarnacion — Fears of the 
 nuns — Santa Teresa — Rainy season — Amusing scene — 
 “ Estd d la disposition de V — Mexican sincerity — Texian 
 vessels — Fine hair — School mistress — Climate — Its effects 
 
 — Nerves — Tours de force — Anniversary — Speech — Paseo 
 
 — San Angel — Tacubaya — Army of “ the three guarantees ” 
 
 — Plan of Yguala—A murder — Indian politeness — Drunk¬ 
 enness — Senor Canedo — Revolutions in Mexico — The Perion 
 
 — The baths — General - — Situation and view — Indian 
 
 family — Of the boiling springs—Capabilities — Solitude — 
 Chapultepec — Th e Desagravios — Penitence at San Francis¬ 
 co — Discipline of the men — Discourse of the monk — Dark¬ 
 ness and horrors — Salmagundi. 
 
 August 30th. 
 
 In the political world nothing very interesting has 
 occurred, and as yet there is no change of ministry. 
 
 Yesterday morning, C-n set off in a coach and 
 
 six for the valley of Toluca, about eighteen leagues 
 
 from Mexico, with a rich Spaniard, Senor M-r 
 
 y T-n, who has a large hacienda there. 
 
 Last Sunday morning, being the first Sunday since 
 the revolution, we had forty visiters — ladies and 
 gentlemen, English, French, Spanish and Mexican. 
 Such varieties of dresses and languages I have sel¬ 
 dom seen united in one room ; and so many anec¬ 
 dotes connected with the pronunciamento as were 
 related, some grave, some ludicrous, that would form 
 
TEARS OF THE NUNS. 
 
 393 
 
 a volume ! The Baron de-having just left this 
 
 for your part of the world, you will learn by him the 
 last intelligence of it and of us. 
 
 As there is a want of rain, the Virgin de los Re- 
 medios was brought into Mexico, but as there is still 
 a slight ripple on the face of the lately troubled 
 waters, she was carried in privately — for all reunions 
 of people are dreaded at this juncture. I had just 
 prepared pieces of velvet and silk to hang on the 
 balconies, when I found that the procession had gone 
 by a back street after sunset. 
 
 I went lately to visit the nuns of the Encarnacion, 
 to inquire how they had stood their alarms, for their 
 convent had been filled with soldiers, and they had 
 been in the very heart of the firing. I was welcomed 
 by a figure covered from head to foot with a double 
 black crape veil, who expressed great joy at seeing 
 me again, and told me she was one of the madres 
 who received us before. She spoke with horror of 
 the late Revolution, and of the state of fear and 
 trembling in which they had passed their time ; sol¬ 
 diers within their very walls, and their prayers inter¬ 
 rupted by volleys of cannon. Thanks to the inter¬ 
 cession of the Virgin, no accident had occurred ; but 
 she added, that had the Virgin of los Remedios been 
 brought in sooner, these disorders might never have 
 taken place. 
 
 I went from thence to the convent of Santa Tere¬ 
 sa, where I saw no one, but discoursed with a num¬ 
 ber of voices, from the shrill treble of the old Madre 
 Priora, to the full, cheerful tones of my friend, the 
 Madre A-. There is something rather awful in 
 
394 
 
 RAINY SEASON. 
 
 sending one’s voice in this way into an unknown re¬ 
 gion, and then listening for a response from the un¬ 
 seen dwellers there. I have not yet been inside this 
 convent, but now that affairs are settled for the pres¬ 
 ent, I trust that the Archbishop will kindly grant his 
 permission to that effect. 
 
 The rainy season is now at its height; that is, it 
 rains severely every evening, but in the morning it is 
 lovely. The disagreeable part of it is, that the roads 
 are so bad, it is difficult to continue our rides in the 
 environs. Horse and rider, after one of these expe¬ 
 ditions, appear to have been taking a mud-bath. It 
 is very amusing to stand at the window about four 
 o’clock, and see every one suddenly caught in the 
 most tremendous shower. In five minutes the streets 
 become rivers; and canoes would be rather more 
 useful than carriages. Strong porters (cargadores) 
 are in readiness to carry well-dressed gentlemen or 
 women who are caught in the deluge, across the 
 streets. Coachmen and footmen have their great 
 coats prepared to draw on ; and all horsemen have 
 their sarapes strapped behind their saddles, in which, 
 with their shining leather hats, they can brave the 
 storm. Trusting to an occasional cessation of rain, 
 which sometimes takes place, people continue to go 
 out in the evening, but it is downright cruelty to 
 coachman and animals, unless the visit is to a house 
 with a porte-cochere, which many of the houses have 
 — this amongst others. 
 
 September 1st. — Had a dispute this morning with 
 an Englishman, who complains bitterly of Mexican 
 insincerity. I believe the chief cause of this com- 
 
“ ESTA A LA DISPOSICION DE V.” 395 
 
 plaint amongst foreigners consists in their attaching 
 the slightest value to the common phrase, “ Esta a 
 la disposition de V .” Everything is placed at your 
 disposal — house, carriage, servants, horses, mules, 
 &c., — the lady’s ear-rings, the gentleman’s diamond 
 pin, the child’s frock. You admire a ring — it is 
 perfectly at your service ; a horse — ditto. Letters 
 are dated “ from your house ; ” (de la casa de V.) 
 Some from ignorance of the custom, and others from 
 knavery, take advantage of these offers, which are 
 mere expressions of civility, much to the confusion 
 and astonishment of the polite offerer, who has no 
 more intention of being credited, than you have 
 when, from common etiquette, you sign yourself the 
 very humble servant of the very greatest bore. It is 
 a mere habit, and to call people who indulge in it 
 insincere, reminds me of the Italian mentioned some¬ 
 where by Lady Blessington, who thought he had 
 made a conquest of a fair Englishwoman, though 
 somewhat shocked by her forwardness, because in 
 an indifferent note to him, she signed herself, “ Truly 
 yours.” Shall I ever forget the crest-fallen counte¬ 
 nance of a Mexican gentleman who had just pur¬ 
 chased a very handsome set of London harness, 
 when hearing it admired by a Frenchman, he gave 
 the customary answer, “ It is quite at your disposal,” 
 and was answered by a profusion of bows, and a 
 ready acceptance of the offer ! the only difficulty 
 with the Frenchman being as to whether or not he 
 could carry it home under his cloak, which he did. 
 
 If all these offers of service, in which it is Mexican 
 etiquette to indulge, be believed in — “ Remember that 
 
396 
 
 TEXIAN VESSELS. 
 
 I am here but to serve you ” — “ My house and 
 everything in it, is quite at your disposal ” — “ Com¬ 
 mand me in all things; ” we shall of course be dis¬ 
 appointed by finding that notwithstanding these re¬ 
 iterated assurances, we must hire a house for our¬ 
 selves, and even servants to wait on us ; but take 
 these expressions at what they are worth, and I 
 believe we shall find that people here are about as 
 sincere as their neighbors. 
 
 8th. — A good deal of surmise, because four Tex- 
 ian vessels are cruising in the bay off Vera Cruz. 
 There is also a good deal of political talk, but I have 
 no longer Madame de Stael’s excuse for interfering 
 in politics, which, by the way, is a subject on which 
 almost all Mexican women are well informed ; pos¬ 
 sessing practical knowledge, the best of all, like a 
 lesson in geography given by travelling. I fear we 
 live in a Paradise Lost, which will not be Regained 
 in our day. . . . 
 
 My attention is attracted, while I write, by the 
 apparition of a beautiful girl in the opposite balcony, 
 with hair of a golden brown, hanging in masses 
 down to her feet. This is an uncommon color here; 
 but the hair of the women is generally very long 
 and fine. It rarely or never curls. We were amused 
 the other day, in passing by a school of little boys 
 and girls, kept in a room on the first floor of Senor 
 
 -’s house, to see the school-mistress, certainly not 
 
 in a very elegant dishabille, marching up and down 
 with a spelling-book in her hand, her long hair hang¬ 
 ing down, and trailing on the floor a good half yard 
 behind her ; while every time she turned, she switch¬ 
 ed it round like a court train. . . . 
 
CLIMATE. 
 
 397 
 
 You ask me about this climate, for-. For one 
 
 who like her, is in perfect health, I should think it 
 excellent; and even an invalid has only to travel a 
 few hours, and he arrives at tierra caliente. This 
 climate is that of the tropics, raised some thousand 
 feet above the level of the sea ; consequently there is 
 an extreme purity and thinness of the atmosphere, 
 which generally affects the breathing at first. In 
 some, it causes an oppression on the chest. On me, 
 it had little effect, if any ; and at all events, the feel¬ 
 ing goes off, after the first month or so. There is a 
 general tendency to nervous irritation, and to inflam¬ 
 matory complaints, and during September and Octo¬ 
 ber, on account of the heavy rains and the drained 
 lakes on which part of the city is built, there is said 
 to be a good deal of ague. Since the time of the 
 cholera in 1833, which committed terrible ravages 
 here, there has been no other epidemic. The small 
 pox indeed has been very common lately, but it is 
 owing to the carelessness of the common people, or 
 rather to their prejudice against having their children 
 vaccinated. 
 
 The nervous complaints of the ladies are an un¬ 
 failing source of profit to the sons of Galen, for they 
 seem to be incurable. Having no personal experi¬ 
 ence of these evils, I only speak from what I see in' 
 others. It appears to me that the only fault of the 
 climate consists in its being monotonously perfect, 
 which is a great drawback to easy and polite con¬ 
 versation. The evening deluge is but a periodical 
 watering of the earth, from which it rises like Ve- 
 34 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
398 
 
 CELEBRATION OF INDEPENDENCE. 
 
 nus from the sea, more lovely and refreshed than 
 ever. 
 
 C-n has returned from Toluca, after an ab¬ 
 sence of eight days.Every one is hurrying to 
 
 the Theatre just now, in spite of the rain, to see some 
 Spaniards, who are performing tours de force there. 
 
 16^. — Celebration of the Day of Independence. 
 Anniversary of the “ Glorioso Grito de Dolores,” of 
 September the 16th, 1810 ; of the Revolution begun 
 thirty years ago, by the curate of the village of Do¬ 
 lores, in the province of Guanajuato. “ It is very 
 easy,” says Zavala, and it is about his most sensible 
 remark, “ to put a country into combustion, when it 
 possesses the elements of discord ; but the difficulties 
 of its reorganization are indefinite.” 
 
 A speech was made by General Tornel in the 
 Alameda. All the troops were out — plenty of offi¬ 
 cers, monks, priests and ladies in full dress. We did 
 
 not go to hear the speech, but went to the E-s 
 
 house to see the procession, which was very magnifi¬ 
 cent. The line of carriages was so deep, that I 
 thought we should never arrive. After all was over, 
 we walked in the Alameda, where temporary booths 
 were erected, and the trees were hung with garlands 
 and flowers. The' Paseo in the evening was ex¬ 
 tremely gay ; but I cannot say that there appeared to 
 be much enthusiasm or public spirit. They say that 
 the great difficulty experienced by the Junta, named 
 on these occasions for the preparation of the festivi¬ 
 ties, is to collect sufficient funds. 
 
 J9 th. —We went yesterday to San Angel, one of 
 the prettiest villages in the environs of Mexico, and 
 
PLAN OF IGUALA. 
 
 399 
 
 spent the day at the hacienda of Senor T-e, 
 
 which is in the neighborhood. The rain has ren¬ 
 dered the roads almost impassable, and the country 
 round Mexico must be more like Cortes’s description 
 of it at this season, than at any other period. One 
 part of the road near the hacienda, which is entirely 
 destroyed, the owner of the house wished to repair; 
 but the Indians, who claim that part of the land, will 
 not permit the innovation, though he offered to throw 
 a bridge over a small stream which passes there, at 
 his own expense. 
 
 24th. — We passed a pleasant day at Tacubaya, 
 
 and dined with Monsieur S-, who gave a fete ; 
 
 in consequence of its being his wife’s saint’s day. 
 
 21th. — Great fete; being the anniversary of the 
 day on which the army called trigarante (the three 
 guarantees) entered Mexico with Yturbide at their 
 head. The famous plan of Iguala, (so called from 
 having first been published in that city,) was also 
 called the plan of the three guarantees ; freedom, 
 union and religion, which were offered as a security 
 to the Spaniards, against whom so many cruelties 
 had. been exercised. We have had ringing of bells 
 and firing all the morning, and in the evening there 
 is to be a bull-fight, followed by the exhibition of the 
 tours de force of these Spaniards, commonly called 
 here “ los Hercules ,” who have just come to offer us 
 a box in the Plaza. 
 
 This plan of Iguala was certainly the only means 
 by which Spain could have continued to preserve 
 these vast and distant possessions. The treaty of 
 Cordova, which confirmed it, was signed in that city 
 
400 
 
 ARTICLES OF THIS PLAN. 
 
 between the Spanish General O’Donoju and Don 
 Agustin Yturbide, in August 1821, and consisted of 
 seventeen articles. 
 
 By the first, Mexico was to be acknowledged as a 
 free and independent nation, under the title of the 
 Mexican Empire. 
 
 By the second, its government was to be a consti¬ 
 tutional monarchy. 
 
 By the third, Ferdinand the Seventh, Catholic King 
 of Spain, was called to the throne of Mexico ; and 
 should he renounce or refuse the throne, it was 
 offered to his brother the Infant Don Carlos, and un¬ 
 der the same circumstances, to each brother in suc¬ 
 cession. 
 
 By the fourth, the Emperor was to fix his court in 
 Mexico, which was to be considered the capital of 
 the Empire. 
 
 By the fifth two commissioners named by O’Don¬ 
 oju were to pass over to the Spanish Court, to place 
 the copy of the treaty and of the accompanying 
 exposition, in his Majesty’s hands, to serve him as 
 an antecedent, until the Cortes should offer him 
 the crown with all formality; requesting him to in¬ 
 form the Infantes of the order in which they were 
 named; interposing his influence in order that the 
 Emperor of Mexico should be one of his august 
 house, for the interest of both nations, and that the 
 Mexicans might add this link to the chain of friend¬ 
 ship which united them with the Spaniards. 
 
 By the sixth a Junta of the first men in Mexico; 
 first by their virtues, position, fortune, &c., was to be 
 named, sufficient in number to ensure success in their 
 
ARTICLES OF THIS PLAN. 
 
 401 
 
 resolutions by .the union of so much talent and infor¬ 
 mation. 
 
 By the seventh this Junta takes the name of Ad¬ 
 ministrative Provisional Junta. 
 
 By the eighth O’Donoju was named member of 
 this Junta. 
 
 By the ninth this Junta was to name a President. 
 
 By the tenth it was to inform the public of its in¬ 
 stallation, and of the motives which had caused it to 
 meet. 
 
 By the eleventh this assembly was to name a Re¬ 
 gency, composed of three persons, to compose the 
 executive power, and to govern in the name of the 
 Monarch, until his arrival. 
 
 By the twelfth the Junta was then to govern con¬ 
 formably to the laws, in everything which did not 
 oppose the plan of Iguala, and till the Cortes had 
 formed the constitution of the state. 
 
 By the thirteenth, the Regency, as soon as they 
 were named, were to proceed to the convocation of 
 the Cortes, according to the method decreed by the 
 provisional Junta. 
 
 By the fourteenth, the executive power was to re¬ 
 side in the Regency -— the legislative in the Cortes 
 — but until the reunion of the Cortes, the legislative 
 power was to be exercised by the Junta. 
 
 By the fifteenth, all persons belonging to the com¬ 
 munity, the system of government being changed, or 
 the country passing into the power of another prince, 
 were perfectly at liberty to transport themselves and 
 their fortunes wherever they chose, &c., &c. 
 
 By the sixteenth, this does not hold good in regard 
 34* 
 
402 
 
 A MURDER. 
 
 to the military or public employes disaffected to the 
 Mexican independence; they will leave the Empire 
 within the term prescribed by the Regency, &.c., &c. 
 
 By the seventeenth and last, as the occupation of 
 the capital by the peninsular troops is an obstacle to 
 the realization of the treaty, this difficulty must be 
 vanquished ; but as the chief of the Imperial army 
 desires to bring this about, not by force, but by gen¬ 
 tler means, General O’Donoju offers to employ his 
 authority with the troops, that they may leave the 
 capital without any effusion of blood, and by an hon¬ 
 orable treaty. This treaty was signed by Yturbide 
 and O’Donoju. 
 
 Had this plan of Iguala taken effect, what would 
 have been the result in Mexico? — what its present 
 condition ? . . . . 
 
 This being Sunday, and a fete-day, a man was 
 murdered close by our door, in a quarrel brought 
 about probably through the influence of pulque, or 
 rather of chinguirite. If they did not so often end 
 in deadly quarrel, there would be nothing so amusing 
 as to watch the Indians gradually becoming a little 
 intoxicated. They are at first so polite — handing 
 the pulque jar to their fair companions ; (fair being 
 taken in the general or Pickwickian sense of the 
 word) always taking off their hats to each other, 
 and if they meet a woman, kissing her hand with a 
 humble bow as if she were a duchess ; — but these 
 same women are sure to be the cause of a quarrel, 
 and then out come these horrible knives — and 
 then, Adios ! 
 
 It is impossible to conceive anything more humble 
 
INDIAN POLITENESS. 
 
 403 
 
 and polite than the common country people. Men 
 and women stop and wish you a good day, the men 
 holding their hats in their hands, and all showing 
 their white teeth, and faces lighted up by careless 
 good nature. I regret to state, however, that to-day 
 there are a great many women quite as tipsy as the 
 men, returning home after the fete, and increasing 
 the distance to their village, by taking a zigzag 
 direction through the streets. 
 
 Sehor Cahedo, Secretary of State, has formally an¬ 
 nounced his intention of resigning. Certainly the 
 situation of premier in Mexico, at this moment, is far 
 from enviable, and the more distinguished and clear¬ 
 headed the individual, the more plainly he perceives 
 the impossibility of remedying the thickly-gathering 
 evils which crowd the political horizon. “ Revolu¬ 
 tion,” says Sehor de -“ has followed revolution 
 
 since the Independence ; no stable government has 
 yet been established. Had it been so, Mexico would 
 have offered to our eyes a phenomenon unknown 
 until now in the world — that of a people, without 
 previous preparation, passing at once to govern them¬ 
 selves by democratical institutions.” 
 
 28 th. — We drove out to the Penon, a natural boiling 
 fountain, where there are baths, which are considered 
 a universal remedy, a pool of Bethesda, but an espe¬ 
 cial one for rheumatic complaints. The baths are a 
 square of low stone buildings, with a church — each 
 building containing five or six empty rooms, in one 
 of which is a square bath. The idea seems to have 
 been to form a sort of dwelling-house for different fam¬ 
 ilies, as each baih has a small kitchen attached to it. 
 
404 
 
 PENON BATHS. 
 
 Like most great ideas of Spanish days, it is now in 
 a state of perfect desolation, though people still 
 flock there for various complaints. When one goes 
 there to bathe, it is necessary to carry a mattress, to 
 lie down on when you leave the bath, linen, a bot¬ 
 tle of cold water, of which there is not a drop in the 
 place, and which is particularly necessary for an in¬ 
 valid in case of faintness — in short, everything that 
 you may require. A poor family live there to take 
 charge of the baths, and there is a small tavern 
 where they sell spirits and pulque ; and occasionally 
 a padre comes on Sunday to say mass in the old 
 church. 
 
 We were amused by meeting there with General 
 
 -and his family, who had brought with them a 
 
 whole coach-load of provisions, besides mattresses, 
 sheets, &c. The road to the Penon crosses the most 
 dreary plain imaginable. Behind the baths are two 
 volcanic hills ; and the view of Mexico and of the 
 great volcanoes from this is magnificent. It is 
 the most solitary of buildings; not a tree to be 
 seen in its environs; these volcanic rocks behind — 
 Mexico fronting it — the great lakes near it — to the 
 right Guadalupe — to the left San Angel, San 
 Agustin and the mountains which bound the valley. 
 The Indian family who live there are handsome sav¬ 
 ages ; and the girl who attended me at the bath, 
 spoke an extraordinary jargon, half Spanish, half 
 Indian, but was a fine specimen of savage good 
 looks. The water is extremely warm, and my 
 curiosity to try its temperature was very soon satis¬ 
 fied. 
 
CAPABILITIES. 
 
 405 
 
 These boiling springs are said to contain sulphate 
 of lime, carbonic acid and muriate of soda, and the 
 Indians make salt in their neighborhood, precisely as 
 they did in the time of Montezuma, with the differ¬ 
 ence, as Humboldt informs us, that then they used 
 vessels of clay, and now they use copper caldrons. 
 The solitary-looking baths are ornamented with odd¬ 
 looking heads of cats or monkeys, which grin down 
 upon you with a mixture of the sinister and facetious 
 rather appalling. 
 
 The Senora de-insisted on my partaking of 
 
 her excellent luncheon after the bath. We could 
 not help thinking, were these baths in the hands of 
 some enterprising and speculative Yankee, what a 
 fortune he would make ; how he would build a hotel 
 a la Saratoga, would paper the rooms, and otherwise 
 beautifjr~this uncouth temple offboiling water. 
 
 There is an indescribable feeling of solitude in all 
 houses in the environs of Mexico, a vastness, a deso¬ 
 lation, such as I never before experienced in the most 
 lonely dwellings in other countries. It is not sad — 
 the sky is too bright, and nature too smiling, and the 
 air we inhale too pure for that. It is a sensation of 
 being entirely out of the world, and alone with a 
 giant nature, surrounded by faint traditions of a by¬ 
 gone race ; and the feeling is not diminished, when 
 the silence is broken by the footstep of the passing 
 Indian, the poor and debased descendant of that ex¬ 
 traordinary and mysterious people, who came, we 
 know not whence, and whose posterity are now 
 “ hewers of wood and drawers of water,” on the soil 
 where they once were monarchs. 
 
406 
 
 PUBLIC PENANCE. 
 
 In Chapultepec especially, near as it is to a large 
 and populous city, the traditions of the past come so 
 strongly upon the mind, that one would rather look 
 for the apparition of a whole band of these inky- 
 haired, adder-anointed priests of Montezuma, than 
 expect to meet with the benevolent-looking Arch¬ 
 bishop, who in purple robes, occasionally walks under 
 the shade of the majestic cypresses. 
 
 All Mexicans at present, men and women, are en¬ 
 gaged in what are called the desagravios, a public 
 penance performed at this season in the churches, 
 during thirty-five days. The women attend church 
 in the morning, no men being permitted to enter, 
 and the men in the evening, when women are not 
 admitted. Both rules are occasionally broken. The 
 penitence of the men is most severe, their sins being 
 no doubt proportionably greater than those of the 
 women ; though it is one of the few countries where 
 they suffer for this, or seem to act upon the principle, 
 that “ if all men had their deserts, who should escape 
 whipping ?” 
 
 To-day we attended the morning penitence at six 
 o’clock, in the church of San Francisco ; the hardest 
 part of which was their having to kneel for about ten 
 minutes with their arms extended in the form of a 
 cross, uttering groans ; a most painful position for 
 any length of time. It was a profane thought, but I 
 dare say so many hundreds of beautifully-formed 
 arms and hands were seldom seen extended at the 
 same moment before. Gloves not being worn in 
 church, and many of the women having short 
 sleeves, they were very much seen. 
 
SAN AGUSTIN. 
 
 407 
 
 But the other night I was present at a much 
 stranger scene, at the discipline performed by the 
 men ; admission having been procured for us, by cer¬ 
 tain means, 'private but powerful. Accordingly when 
 it was dark, enveloped from head to foot in large 
 cloaks, and without the slightest idea of what it was, 
 we went on foot through the streets to the Church of 
 San Agustin. When we arrived, a small side door 
 apparently opened of itself, and we entered, passing 
 through long vaulted passages, and up steep winding 
 stairs, till we found ourselves in a small railed gal¬ 
 lery, looking down directly upon the church. The 
 scene was curious. About one hundred and fifty 
 men, enveloped in cloaks and sarapes, their faces en¬ 
 tirely concealed, were assembled in the body of the 
 church. A monk had just mounted the pulpit, and 
 the church was dimly lighted, except where he stood 
 in bold relief, with his gray robes and cowl thrown 
 back, giving a full view of his high bald forehead and 
 expressive face. 
 
 His discourse was a rude but very forcible and 
 eloquent description of the torments prepared in hell 
 for impenitent sinners. The effect of the whole 
 was very solemn. It appeared like a preparation for 
 the execution of a multitude of condemned criminals. 
 When the discourse was finished, they all joined in 
 prayer with much fervor and enthusiasm, beating their 
 breasts and falling upon their faces. Then the monk 
 stood up, and in a very distinct voice, read several 
 passages of Scripture descriptive of the sufferings of 
 Christ. The organ then struck up the Miserere, and 
 all of a sudden the church was plunged in profound 
 
408 
 
 SCOURGING. 
 
 darkness ; all but a sculptured representation of the 
 Crucifixion, which seemed to hang in the air illumi¬ 
 nated. I felt rather frightened, and would have been 
 very glad to leave the church, but it would have been 
 impossible in the darkness. Suddenly, a terrible voice 
 in the dark cried ; “ My brothers ! when Christ was 
 fastened to the pillar by the Jews, he was scourged! ” 
 At these words, the bright figure disappeared, and 
 the darkness became total. Suddenly, we heard the 
 sound of hundreds of scourges descending upon the 
 bare flesh. I cannot conceive anything more hor¬ 
 rible. Before ten minutes had passed, the sound 
 became splashing, from the blood that was flowing. 
 
 I have heard of these penitences in Italian churches, 
 and also that half of those who go there, do not really 
 scourge themselves ; but here, where there is such 
 perfect concealment, there seems no motive for de¬ 
 ception. Incredible as it may seem, this awful pen¬ 
 ance continued, without intermission, for half an 
 hour! If they scourged each other, their energy 
 might be less astonishing. 
 
 We could not leave the church, but it was perfectly 
 sickening; and had I not been able to take hold of 
 
 the Senora-’s hand, and feel something human 
 
 beside me, I could have fancied myself transported 
 into a congregation of evil spirits. Now and then, 
 but very seldom, a suppressed groan was heard, and 
 occasionally the voice of the monk encouraging them 
 by ejaculations, or by short passages from Scripture. 
 Sometimes the organ struck up, and the poor wretches, 
 in a faint voice, tried to join in the Miserere. The 
 sound of the scourging is indescribable. At the end 
 
SALMAGUNDI. 
 
 409 
 
 of half an hour, a little bell was rung, and the voice 
 of the monk was heard, calling upon them to desist; 
 but such was their enthusiasm, that the horrible lash¬ 
 ing continued louder and fiercer than ever. 
 
 In vain he entreated them not to kill themselves; 
 and assured them that Heaven would be satisfied, and 
 that human nature could not endure beyond a cer¬ 
 tain point. No answer, but the loud sound of the 
 scourges, which are many of them of iron, with sharp 
 points that enter the flesh. At length, as if they were 
 perfectly exhausted, the sound grew fainter, and little 
 by little ceased altogether. We then got up in the 
 dark, and, with great difficulty, groped our way in 
 the pitch darkness through the galleries and down 
 the stairs, till we reached the door, and had the plea¬ 
 sure of feeling the fresh air again. They say that the 
 church floor is frequently covered with blood after 
 one of these penances, and that a man died the other 
 day in consequence of his wounds. 
 
 I then went to the house of the-Minister, 
 
 where there was a reunion, and where I found the 
 company comfortably engaged in eating a very famous 
 kind of German salad, composed of herrings, smoked 
 salmon, cold potatoes and apples ; (salmagundi ?) and 
 drinking hot punch. After the cold, darkness and 
 horrors of the church, this formed rather a contrast; 
 and it was some time before I could shake off the dis¬ 
 agreeable impression left by the desagravios, and join 
 in the conversation. . . . 
 
 Along with this you will receive some Mexican 
 airs, which I have written by ear from hearing them 
 played, and of some of which I gave you the words 
 in a former letter. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 35 
 
MEXICAN AIRS 
 
 (See Letters 12th and 10th.) 
 
 JARAVE PALOMO. 
 
MEXICAN AIRS 
 
 411 
 
 LOS ENANOS. 
 
 PERICO. 
 
412 
 
 MEXICAN AIRS 
 
 EL AFORRADO. 
 
 END OF VOLUME THE FIRST. 
 
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